Title: How to Tie Flies
Author: Gregg, Ellery Clark, 1899-
Language: English
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[Transcriber's Note: This transcription attempts to follow page
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a paragraph spans more than one page with one or more full page
sized illustrations between the pages, thus splitting the paragraph.
This required adjustment to the numbering of some pages.

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The table of "Standard Dressings Of 334 Flies" actually has only
319 dressings.]



HOW TO TIE FLIES

HOW
TO TIE
FLIES

BY
E. C. GREGG

DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS
BY THE AUTHOR

A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY

NEW YORK


Copyright, 1940, A. S. Barnes & Company. Inc

THIS BOOK IS FULLY PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT AND NOTHING THAT APPEARS IN
IT MAY BE REPRINTED OR REPRODUCED IN ANY MANNER, EITHER WHOLLY OR IN
PART, FOR ANY USE WHATEVER, WITHOUT SPECIAL WRITTEN PERMISSION BY THE
COPYRIGHT OWNER

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

CONTENTS

  INTRODUCTION                                           vii
  TOOLS, HOOKS AND MATERIALS  . . . . . . . . . . . . .    1
     Tools--Fly-Tier's Vise Hackle Pliers, scissors,
     Hooks
     Materials--Quill Bodies, Herl Bodies, Hackles,
             Tails, Cheeks or Shoulders, Ribbing,
             Wings, Tying Silk
  BUCKTAIL STREAMERS  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   15
  WET FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   22
  DRY FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   27
  NYMPHS and Their Construction . . . . . . . . . . . .   32
     Nymphs: Their Construction
     The Helgramite
  BASS FLIES AND FEATHER STREAMERS  . . . . . . . . . .   42
  FAMOUS BUCKTAIL AND FEATHER STREAMERS . . . . . . . .   47
  FLOATING BUGS and Their Construction  . . . . . . . .   49
     Cork Bodied Bass Bugs
  ANGLER'S KNOTS  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   61
  MY FAVORITE FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   62
  STANDARD DRESSINGS OF 334 FLIES . . . . . . . . . . .   69



{vi}

[Illustration: Diagram 1. Page sized drawing of parts of a fly.]


{vii}

INTRODUCTION

The object of this book will be throughout its entirety to teach in a
practical manner the art of Fly Tying in all its branches.  The
principles used herein, and the methods of construction employed, are
those used by the professional fly-tier who practices fly-making for the
sake of art, and tries to achieve with each finished fly, a masterpiece.

None of the short-cuts employed by those whose business is quantity
production will be attempted. Only the making of flies of the very
highest quality and most durable construction will be attempted.
In describing the principals of construction with the following
illustrations, it will be impossible to describe in detail each
standard pattern; however, it must be remembered that the fundamentals
applying to each style of fly will be the principal bases of
construction of all flies of that style, and that the use of different
body materials, hackles, wings or size will simply change the pattern
and not the fundamental points of construction.

Dressings for hundreds of standard patterns will be found fully
described elsewhere in this book. For clearness {viii} of understanding
please note that where a fly is described in this book as having grey
wings, or red body, etc., and no particular feather or material is
specified, it means that any feather or body material may be used. When
a particular feather, body, hackle, tail, etc., must be used it will be
so stated.

Each year a steadily increasing number of anglers are learning to tie
their own flies. Not many years ago, there were few in America outside
of professional tiers who understood the art.  Now on each angling trip,
at least one is sure to be met, who has discovered the great thrill of
taking fish on flies of his own tying.

To those who are anticipating the making of their own flies for the
first time, there is the opportunity to exercise one's ingenuity in the
creation of new patterns. To prolong your fishing seasons throughout the
long winter evenings, in the confines of your own den, where, with a
supply of fur, feathers and tinsel, can be enjoyed a profitable,
artistic and pleasant hobby.  And the thrill of seeing in each finished
imitation of Ephemeridae, Muscidae and Formicidae, a masterpiece to
bring the joy of living and dreams of spring to the angler's heart.

Beginners are requested to reject any inclination to skip over the
first part of this book, nor to attempt the tying of the more delicate
and difficult dry flies before they have had sufficient preliminary
training. {ix} This book is so written that the easier flies to make are
the first encountered. Although you may not expect to use Bucktail
Streamers, the fundamental principles employed in their construction,
the knack of handling fur, feathers and tinsel, will be acquired, and a
sense of proportion will be realized. I sincerely encourage you to begin
at the beginning, and by careful and patient study the satisfactory
result will be the ability to make flies that are second to none.

The illustrations in this book are all drawn to correct proportions
except the tying silk, which is purposely drawn large for clearness
of illustration. Follow these illustrations, and begin by making a
very careful study of Diagram 3, "Bucktails" (page 15). Here will
be learned how to overcome some of the difficulties encountered by
beginners. Many of the fundamentals learned in tying Bucktails are
used in tying all of the flies to follow. For instance, in putting
the wings or tail on a wet fly, the same method of holding the wing
between the thumb and finger and making the loose loop, are explained
as when putting the hair or tail on a Bucktail. Putting the wings on
a fly correctly seems to be the greatest difficulty encountered by
the beginner.  Consequently, the necessity of carefully studying
Figs. 4, 5, 10, and 11 of Diagram 3 cannot be too greatly emphasized.
Before tying any other part of the fly, place a bare hook in the
vise, and practice tying on the tail, {x} and then the wings, until you
have mastered this knack, and have the wings and tail setting straight
on top of the hook, as in Figs. 4, 5, 10 and 11 of Diagram 3.  First
using hair and then a section of feather.

Other faults of the beginner where literal descriptions are followed
entirely or where illustrations are not drawn to correct proportions or
followed closely are as follows. The wings are usually too large, and
much too long for the size of the hook, and the tail is most always too
long, as are the hackles. The bodies seldom have a nicely tapered shape,
and most always start too far back on the hook shank. The ribbing is
seldom put on in even tight spirals. The hair on hair flies is always
too long, and too much is used. The head is too large, because the tying
silk is not wound tightly and smoothly.  The eye of the hook on the
finished fly is filled with hair, tying silk, hackles and cement.

I do not mean to criticize these common mistakes of the beginner.
Instead, I merely wish to call them to your mind, and assure you that
they are not necessary, and will not happen if you will diligently
follow instructions in this book.


{xi}

[Illustration: Diagram 2. Page sized drawings of wet flies and feathers.]


{xii}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of tools.]


{1}

TOOLS, HOOKS AND
MATERIALS

Very few tools are required by the Fly-Tier.   Those that are necessary
are inexpensive, and most of them can be homemade.  However, as with any
other craft good tools are an asset. I advise the beginner to procure
the following:

TOOLS

Fly-Tiers' vise. There are many styles of fly-tying vises on the market.
The simplest is just a slot cut in a 3/8" piece of square steel with a
hacksaw, and a thumb screw to tighten the slot.  This type of vise will
work all right, although rather clumsy and hard to tighten enough to
hold the hook truly. Another simple vise is just a small pin chuck,
soldered to one end of a 1/4" brass rod, bent at the desired angle, and
the other end of the rod soldered to a small C clamp. However, I prefer
a vise of the cam lever type.  That is, a vise that has a cam lever for
opening and closing the jaws. These vises, of which there are
several makes, are {2} adjustable to various angles and hook sizes. They
will hold all sizes of hooks very firmly, and are easily and quickly
opened with a flip of the lever.

Hackle Pliers. These can be purchased for about fifty cents and will
prove a worthwhile investment, as they are rather difficult to make
satisfactorily.

Scissors. One pair with curved blades and sharp points for small flies
and one pair with small straight blades. A needle pushed into a stick,
for picking out hackles that are wound under, and for putting lacquer on
the finished head, completes the list of necessary tools.

HOOKS

Hooks used for fly-tying differ somewhat from those used for bait
fishing etc., inasmuch as they are usually hollow ground, and tapered
shank especially those used for dry flies. The tapered shank next to the
eye allows the head of the fly to be tied smaller, and also reduces the
weight of the hook, an advantage for dry flies.  Of course flies may be
tied on any style or grade of hook, but considering the work involved in
making the fly, and realizing that with an old razor blade the fly can
be quickly removed from the hook should the first attempts prove
unsatisfactory, you will see the advantage in using good hooks.


{3}

[Illustration: Page sized diagram showing drawings of hooks.]


{4}

MATERIALS

Materials used by the Fly-Tier cover an extremely large field.  Although
only a few simple and easily obtained items are necessary for a start,
it is interesting to know that furs, feathers and body materials come
from all parts of the world. There's the jungle cock from India whose
neck feathers are extensively used on salmon flies and a very large
percentage of all fancy flies.  The golden pheasant from China, the
bustard from Africa, the Mandarin wood duck from China, the capercailzie
from Ireland, the game cocks from Spain and the Orient, the teal,
mallard, grouse, ibis, swan, turkey, and hundreds of others. The polar
bear, Impala, North and South American deer, seal, black bear, skunk,
rabbit, squirrel, are a few of the hairs that are used.  The beginner
need not worry about the great variety. Some hooks, silk floss and spun
fur or wool yarn and chenille for bodies, a few sizes of tinsel for
ribbing, bucktails of three or four colors, an assortment of duck and
turkey wing quills some mallard breast, an assortment of neck and saddle
hackles, a spool of tying silk, a piece of wax, a bottle of head
lacquer, and many of the popular patterns can be made. Numerous other
items can be added from time to time, and the novice Fly-Tier will soon
find himself in possession of a collection of fuzzy furs and feathers
that will delight the heart of any professional, and from which any
conceivable lure can be made to attract the denizens of the shady pools.

{5}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of body materials.]


{6}

BODY MATERIAL: Tinsel, Silk Floss, Fur, Chenille, Wool, Quill
and Cork are used for bodies. The most commonly used for Bucktail
Streamers is flat tinsel ribbed with oval tinsel or no ribbing at all.
About the easiest body to make is one of chenille ribbed with tinsel.
Silk floss is mostly used for wet and dry fly bodies.  The domestic silk
floss, which is called rope, can be successfully used for the larger
flies, by untwisting and using a few of the smaller strands. An imported
floss of one single strand, with a very slight twist, is especially made
for fly-tying; this will work much better on the smaller hooks. Fur for
fur bodies, which formerly had to be plucked from the hide, dyed the
desired color, and spun on the waxed tying silk, can now be obtained in
all standard fly colors. It is called Spun Fur, and is very convenient
to use in this manner.

QUILL BODIES: Quill makes an excellent and very lifelike body,
especially on dry flies. The quill from the eyed peacock tail feather is
mostly used. That taken from the eye of the feather when stripped of its
fibers has a two tone effect, and when wound upon the hook without
overlapping makes a very lifelike and delicate appearing body.


{7}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]


{8}

HERL BODIES: Both peacock and ostrich herl is used for bodies.
These make a fuzzy body. Tie in one or two strands by the tip end and
wind on edgewise.

HACKLES: These are the most important part of the dry fly. Only those
from the neck of a mature cock are satisfactory. Hackles for the dry fly
must be stiff with very little or no web. With such hackles a dry fly
can be sparsely dressed as it should be and still maintain its natural
balance and floating qualities.  On the other hand, a wet fly should
sink readily, and should be made with very soft webby hackles. These
absorb water quickly, and have better action in the water. Contrary to
the customary way to tie hackles on the wet fly, as explained in the
chapter "Wet Flies", I find it very convenient and economical to strip
the fibers from any size hackle, clip off the butt ends to the desired
length and tie them on the bottom of the hook, the same as buck tail is
tied on. As wet flies should have hackles only on the bottom or
underneath side, many hackles that are otherwise too large can be used
in this way.

TAILS: A few fibers from a golden or silver pheasant neck tippet, whisks
from a hackle feather, a strip of wing or breast feather, a few hairs,
etc., are used for tails. Many of the standard patterns are tied without
tails; however, on all of my dry flies, I tie three or four stiff fibers
or hairs. They balance the fly and help it to float much better.

{9}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]


{10}

CHEEKS OR SHOULDERS: As per Fig. 9, Diagram 1, these are used on a
great many of the fancy flies. These are straps of one or several
feathers of contrasting colors. Jungle cock feathers, golden pheasant
tippets, silver pheasant body feathers, as on the Grey Ghost streamer
fly, blue chatterer, and many other fancy feathers according to pattern
and fancy are used for this purpose. A pair of jungle cock tippets often
called eyes, added to a Bucktail Streamer will often take trout, when
the same pattern without the jungle cock will not.

RIBBING: Tinsel, Wool, Silk, Horse Hair, Quill, etc., are used for
ribbing. The tinsel from your Xmas tree will do, but it is much better
to use tinsel made for the purpose, as it will not tarnish so
quickly and is much stronger. It is advisable before using tinsel to
place a drop of good, clear head lacquer between the thumb and finger
and draw the tinsel through it. This makes it tarnish-proof, and is
particularly advisable with the oval and round tinsel that is wound
over a silk core. Besides tarnish-proofing it, it will keep the tinsel
from coming apart. Tinsel bodies should be lacquered after they are
finished.


{11}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]


WINGS: Several styles of wings are used, see Diagram 2, page xi, those
on Fig. 1, and are cut from a pair of matched wing quill feathers, like
Fig. 7. Those in Fig. 2 are buzz wings taken from a pair of breast
feathers {12} (mallard, wood duck, etc.) shown in Fig. 8. Fig. 3 shows
hackle tip wings, tips of two hackle feathers, see Fig. 9. Fan wings,
Fig. 4, are a matched pair of small breast feathers, see Fig. 10 (white
duck, mallard, teal, grouse, etc.). In fact there is hardly a bird that
flies that does not supply some of its plumage to the Fly-Tier. Flies
of the order Diptera (land flies), such as the Bee, Cowdung, Blue Bottle,
etc., should be tied with flat wings as in Fig. 5. A Bi-visible is shown
in Fig. 6. This is a fly without wings, hackle tied palmer (that is hackle
wound the full length of the hook, usually tied without a body, and the
dark patterns have a turn or two of white hackle in front).

All of the flies on Diagram 2 are shown as dry flies; however, the same
feathers are used for wet flies, streamers, etc., the difference being
the style in which they are tied, which is explained elsewhere.

WAX: Use a good grade of wax for fly-tying. The proper wax will work
much better than shoemaker's wax or beeswax. Wax for fly-tying should be
quite sticky so that when the waxed tying silk is let go of, it will not
unwind while tying the fly.


{13}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]


TYING SILK: Ordinary sewing silk is too coarse for ordinary fly-tying
and it doesn't seem to have the strength. Size 00 is a good size for all
flies including bucktails and streamers. For dry flies and small wet
flies a gossamer silk size 000 and 0000 is the best to {14} use.
Although the strength of this fine silk is much less than the size 00,
it has the advantage that more turns can be used, and the heads can be
made much smaller.

{15}

BUCKTAIL STREAMERS


{16}

[Illustration: Diagram 3. Page sized diagram showing drawings of bucktail
construction.]


Place a hook in the vise and start waxed tying silk (See Diagram 3, page
15) (A) 1/8" from eye of hook Fig. 1. Take five or six turns and cut off
end (B) Fig. 2. Wind tying silk (A) closely and smoothly down hook shank
as Fig 3. (A complete understanding of the next step will have a great
deal to do with the success of the beginner's greatest difficulty, that
is, putting on the wings; the procedure is the same for all flies, study
Fig. 4.) Hold tail material (C) between thumb and finger of the left
hand, slide the fingers down over the hook, so that the tail material
rests on top of the hook, with the hook held firmly between thumb and
finger as Fig. 4. Now loosen grip just enough to allow tying silk (A) to
pass up between thumb and tail material, form a loose loop over
material, and down, between finger and material on the other side. Now
tighten grip with thumb and finger and pull loop down tight; repeat once
more, see Fig. 5. (This knack of holding the material and hook firmly
together, until the loose loop is drawn down tightly keeps the tail, or
wings, on top of the {17} hook, and at the same time keeps them from
splitting or turning sidewise.) Now that the tail is in place, with two
turns of the tying silk (A) tie in ribbing (D) Fig. 6. Now take six or
eight close tight turns with the tying silk towards the eye of the hook,
with two more turns tie in the body material (E) Fig. 7. IF USING TINSEL
FOR BODY MATERIAL, BE SURE AND CUT THE END TO A TAPER BEFORE TYING IN as
(E) Fig. 7; this tends to make a smoother body and prevents a bunch
where the body material is tied in. Next wind tying silk (A) back to the
starting point, take a half hitch and let it hang. Now wind body
material (E) clockwise (all windings are clockwise) tightly and smoothly
back towards the barb, to the extreme rear end of the body, pull tight
and wind forward to within 1/8" of the eye, wind back and forth to form
smooth tapered body as Fig. 8 (tinsel bodies are not tapered).  (If
using silk floss, untwist the floss and use only one half or one third
of the strands, do not let it twist, wind tight, and it will make a nice
smooth body.) Take two turns and a half hatch with the tying silk, and
cut off end of the material (F) Fig. 8. Take one tight turn with ribbing
(D) over butt of tail close to rear end of the body, also one turn
under the tail if tail is to be cocked. Wind ribbing spirally around the
body and tie off with two turns and a half hitch of tying silk as Fig.
9.


{18}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of bucktail streamers tied by the
author.]


{19}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of bucktails.]



{20}

Take about three dozen hairs of colored bucktail, cut off butt ends to
the length wanted for the finished fly, not more than one half again as
long as the hook, place these on top of the hook as Fig. 10 with butt
ends about 1/16" back of the eye (this is held the same as when putting
on the tail, Fig. 4).  Pull down two or three loops, Fig. 11. Now take
about 175 hairs of other colored bucktail, place this on top of the
first colored bucktail the  same as Fig. 10. Repeat the same operation
as Fig. 11. Before finishing the head put a drop of head lacquer on the
butt ends of the hairs to cement  them in place, finish by making a
smooth tapered head with the tying silk, take three or four half
hitches, paint the head with two or three coats of lacquer and the job
is complete, unless you wish  to add jungle cock cheeks, or other
combinations of feathers. This of course is done before the head is
completed.


{21}

[Illustration: Diagram 4. Page sized diagram showing drawings of wet
flys.]


{22}

WET FLIES

Start the waxed tying silk (See Diagram 4, page 21) 1/8" from eye of
hook, Fig. 1. Wind tying silk (A) down shank of hook, and with last two
turns tie in tag material (B) Fig. 2. Tags (see diagram 1) usually
represent the egg sac on the female of the species. Chenille, wool,
gold, silver, silk, herl, or various other materials are used for tags.
(Ribbing, if used, is tied in just before the tag material.) Tie in tail
(C) Fig. 3 (see Fig. 4 Bucktail, Diagram 3, page 15, for directions, how
to hold the tail.  Take from one to four turns with the Tag Material (B)
around the hook, take a couple of turns with tying silk (A) around the
loose end of (B) and cut off (B) as Fig. 4. Take about three or four
turns towards the eye of the hook with (A), with two more turns tie in
the body material (D) Fig. 4. Wind (A) back to the starting point, take
a half hitch and let hang. Wind body material (D) to where (A) was left
hanging. Wind (D) back and forth several times to form a tapered body,
fasten with two or three turns and a half hitch with (A) Fig. 5. Next
take hackle (E), and strip off soft web fibers on dotted line, Fig. E.
Hold hackle {23} (E) by the tip with thumb and finger of the left hand,
with the shiny side of the hackle to the right, place the butt
diagonally under the hook and take four or five tight turns and a half
hitch with (A) Fig. 6. Be sure that the hackle is tied on edgewise with
the shiny side to the front. Now grasp the tip of the hackle with the
hackle pliers and wind four or five turns clockwise around the hook. If
the hackle starts winding edgewise it will go on without any trouble, if
not better take it off and try again until you get the knack of tying
the butt in at just the right angle. Take three or four turns over the
hackle tip with (A) and clip off the tip close as Fig. 7. With the thumb
and finger of the left hand, reach from under the hook and pull all the
fibers down to the bottom, take three or four turns over them with (A)
towards the barb of the hook, to hold them in place, and to keep them
pointing well back, as Fig. 8. Next take a pair of matched (one right
and one left) turkey, goose, or other wing feathers, Fig. A, and cut a
section from each about 1/4" wide, place the two sections with tips even
and concave sides together as Fig. B. Cut off the butt ends to the right
length, that is so that the tips come even, or a little beyond the bend
of the hook. Place on top of hook as Fig. 9 and tie on the same as
previously explained in tying hair on Bucktails (Diagram 3, page 15,
Figs. 4 and 10). Finish off with a smooth tapered head, two or
three half hitches {24} and a couple of coats of good head lacquer,
Fig. 10. Many patterns are tied palmer, that is the hackle is wound the
whole length of the body. Many of the dry flies are tied this way,
especially the Bi-visibles. To tie a palmer hackle, prepare the hackle
by holding the tip of the hackle between the thumb and finger of the left
hand, and with the thumb and finger of the right hand, stroke the fibers
back so that they point towards the butt, instead of towards the tip, Fig.
C, Diagram 4. With the shiny side of the hackle up, strip off the fibers
from the bottom side as Fig. D. Now tie the hackle in by the tip as
Fig. 11. Make the body the same as before. Wind the hackle spirally around
the body and tie off the butt, Fig. 12. To make the hackle more full near
the head, one or more hackles are tied in at the same time as Figs. 6
and 7, the palmer hackle is wound to within 1/8" of the eye and the butt
tied in and cut off the same as the tip was cut off Fig. 7.


{25}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of wet flies tied by the author.]


{26}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]



{27}

DRY FLIES

Start winding waxed tying silk (See Diagram 5, page 28) (A) about 1/8"
from the eye of the hook, take three or four turns towards the bend of
the hook and cut off end, Fig. 1, Diagram 5. Cut a section about 1/4"
wide from a right and one from a left wing feather, as Fig. A Diagram 4,
page 21 (duck wings are best for dry flies). Place convex sides together
(just the reverse of Fig. B, Diagram 4). Do not cut off the butt ends,
instead straddle the hook as Fig. 2, Diagram 5. Hold between the thumb
and finger of the left hand as already explained in Figs. 4 and 10,
Diagram 3, page 15. Tip the wings (B) forward so that they stand about
perpendicular to the shank, and pull down loop, Fig. 3, as explained in
Diagram 3, Fig. 4. Take one more turn with (A) around the wings (B) in
front as Fig. 4 and before loosening the grip with the left hand take
two turns around the hook close in back of the wings (B), Fig. 5. Next
pull the butt ends back tightly as Fig. 6, take two tight turns around
them with (A) and cut off on dotted line as Fig. 6. Cross (A) between
wings (B) to spread them, and wind tying silk (A) down shank of the hook
as Fig. 7.


{28}

[Illustration: Diagram 5. Page sized diagram showing drawings of dry fly
construction.]


{29}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of Fan Wings, Dry Flies, and Nymphs
tied by the author.]


{30}

From now on the body is made as previously explained, so for the sake of
variation we will tie a band in the centre, the same as a Royal
Coachman. Tie in tail (C) Fig. 8. Tie in two or three strands of peacock
herl (D) Fig. 9 with (A) and wind (A) four or five turns towards the eye
of the hook. Take three or four turns with herl (D). Tie in two strands
of silk floss (E) Fig. 10, take a few more turns with (A) over the loose
ends of (D) towards the eye of the hook. Wind silk floss (E) over the
herl about half way up the hook. Take a turn or two around silk floss
(E) with (A) and cut off end of (E) as Fig. 11. Carry (A) up to the
front of the wings. Finish body with herl (D) wound tight against the
back of the wings. (This helps to push the wings forward and to hold
them in place.) Tie off herl (D) with (A) Fig. 12. The next step of
putting on the hackle (F) is done the same as Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page
21.  But here the hackle is much more important than on the wet fly. The
floating qualities of a dry fly depend entirely upon stiff neck hackle
of the proper size. (Use Hackle Chart.) Sometimes two hackles are used,
these are laid together, and both butts tied in at the same time. One
hackle of the proper size and stiffness is usually enough, so we will
use one tied in as Fig. 13 and explained in Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page
21. Clip the hackle pliers to the tip of hackle (F) and wind
about two turns edgewise in front of the wings, wind two turns close
{31} in back  of the wings. Take two or three more turns in front of the
wings, all the while keeping the hackle edgewise, with the shiny side
towards the eye of the hook. Wind the hackle close so as not to fill up
the eye of the hook and to leave room for the head. Tie in the tip with
a couple of turns of (A) Fig. 14. The hackle should now be standing
straight out from the hook, with the most of it in front of the wings.
Shape a tapered head with (A). (Head should be about 1/16" long on a
size 12 hook.) Finish with two or three half hitches and a drop
of head lacquer, Fig. 15.

Various feathers are used for wings of dry flies, such as breast
feathers from mallard, teal; partridge, grouse, black duck, wood duck.
Hackle tips, starling, duck, turkey, goose, pheasant, wing feathers,
etc.

Two whole feathers of the proper size, with the natural curve are used
for fan wings. The tips of two feathers, or a section may be cut from
two matched feathers. All of these wings are tied on in the same manner
as previously explained. See Diagram 2 for flies tied with different
style wings.

[Illustration: Drawing of hackle size chart at bottom of page.]

{32}

NYMPHS AND THEIR
CONSTRUCTION

NYMPHS

Nymphs are larvae of all aquatic insects. Together with minnows,
crawfish, etc., they represent about ninety per cent of the trout's
regular diet. Considering this fact, it is obvious that nymphs will take
trout throughout the entire season. It will greatly surprise the novice
to learn of the great amount of underwater insect life present in any
stream. Next time you go fishing, hold your landing net close to the
bottom, in a foot or so of fast water.  Reach upstream and loosen the
stones and gravel. Raise your landing net, and notice the numerous
nymphs that have been washed from under the stones, and have attached
themselves to your net. Better still, make a screen about two feet
square, from regular 14 mesh window screening. Hold this in the water,
and have your fishing partner go upstream, and with a regular garden
rake, or some such tool, rake up the bottom, turning over the stones and
gravel.  This way you can capture many nymphs. Put them in glass
bottles, take them home, and make copies of them. When next you {33} go
fishing open the first trout you catch, examine the contents of its
stomach, and determine which of the copies you have made is the proper
nymph or fly for the occasion. To fish with an imitation of the fly or
nymph upon which they are feeding, will result in a heavier creel.

When nymph fishing it is important to use a long, finely tapered leader.
A 4x is about right. Fish in the same waters, and very much the same way
as with a dry fly except that the nymph is allowed to sink. Fish
upstream, or up and across the current. In the ripples. Around boulders.
At the edge of fast water. Let the nymph drift with the current. Follow
it with your rod tip, and be prepared to set the hook at the least
hesitation of the line. Trout will sometimes take a drifting nymph and
eject it, without being felt on the most delicate rod, so be ever on the
alert when nymph fishing. A nymph fished down stream, and retrieved with
slow, short jerks, will often work very well.  When fished in this
manner, trout will strike quite hard, and usually hook themselves.

There are times when trout are rolling on the surface and it seems
impossible to take them on anything. It is then that they are usually
feeding on nymphs, just under the surface. I remember one such time on
the Housatonic River in Connecticut last summer. Just at dark, I was
standing knee deep in very fast water. Trout {34} were breaking all
around me. I knew, they were feeding on nymphs, and tried in every way
to catch them. The water was so fast, it was impossible to keep the
nymph just the right depth below the surface. I tried every trick that
I knew, but could not get a strike. Finally reaching my hand in my
pocket, I discovered several large buckshot. Removing the nymph from the
tip of the leader, I attached five of these large shots, to the very tip
of the leader, with a piece of 3x gut tippet about four inches long. I
connected the nymph to the leader about sixteen inches from the tip.
Within the next few minutes I took several nice trout, within rod's
length of where I was standing. What actually happened, the lead was so
heavy that it immediately sank straight to the bottom, and my taut line
held the nymph suspended about two inches below the surface. The short
gut between the nymph and the leader allowed the nymph to quiver much as
the natural was doing. All the various common nymphs can be faithfully
copied, by learning to tie the various styles of those herein
illustrated. Simply alter the sizes, and color combinations, according
to those found in the waters where you fish.

Remember nearly all the nymphs have flat bodies, and dark backs. The
bodies may be flattened by thoroughly lacquering them, and when nearly
dried squeezing them flat with an ordinary pair of pliers; or by {35}
cutting a piece of quill the shape of the body from a turkey or goose
wing. Bind this on top of the hook for the foundation of the body, and
build the body over this. When finished, lacquer the entire body.

Most any body materials that are used for the making of other flies can
be used; however, wool is mostly used for nymphs.  Silk floss wound over
a quill foundation and then lacquered, makes a very smooth, realistic
body.


{36}

[Illustration: Diagram 6. Page sized diagram showing drawings of nymph
construction.]


THEIR CONSTRUCTION
(SEE DIAGRAM 6)

Start tying silk (A) an eighth of an inch from the eye of the hook and
wind closely down shank, as previously done with bucktails, wet flies
etc. Next cut a section (B) from a grey goose wing feather about one
eighth inch wide, and tie on top of the hook as Fig. 1.  This is to make
the tail and also the back of the nymph. Bend (B) back and take a turn
or two with (A) in front as Fig. 2. Tie in the ribbing (c) close to (B)
Fig. 3. Next tie in body material (D) close to (C) Fig. 4. Wool yarn
makes the best body material for this style nymph. Now finish the body
as for a wet fly, Fig. 5, then pull (B) tightly over the top, finish off
as Fig. 6. This makes a sort of hard shell over the back. Next turn the
hook upside down in the vise, and lay {37} three horse hairs across, just
in back of where the head is to be made, crisscross (A) between the hairs
to spread them and make them look like legs, and your nymph should look
like Fig. 7. Nymphs of this style as well as Figs. 8, 9, 10, 14 and 15
look more natural if the bodies are flattened. Fig. 8 is tied nearly the
same as Fig. 7, the difference being that (C) and (D) are both wound
over (B) about two-thirds of the length of the body, then (B) is turned
back, the body finished as before, (B) brought forward loosely to form
the humpbacked wing case, and (B) being cut off as was done with Fig. 6,
and instead of the butt end of (B) being cut off as was done  with Fig.
6 it is split by crisscrossing (A) through it to form small wings as
Fig. 8.  Fig. 9 is made in the same way except that several strands of
peacock herl is used for the dark back, tail, and feelers.

Fig. 10 is a very effective nymph, the body made entirely of natural
raffia (soaked in water before using), with black hair used for the tail
and feelers The body coated with lacquer as before mentioned and pressed
flat when dry; paint the back with dark brown or black lacquer.

Fig. 11 is made by close wound palmer hackle cut off on dotted
lines. Fig. 12 is a fur body, made by spinning rabbit's fur or
other fur on waxed tying silk and ribbing with gold; the tougher
this nymph looks the more effective it seems to be. Fig. 13, the
Caddis {38} worm can be more naturally reproduced with a common rubber
band than any other way I know. Get a dirty, white, rubber band
about 1/8" wide, taper one end for  about 1/2".  Lay two horse hairs
lengthwise on top of the hook for the feelers, wind tying silk over them
down the hook, tie in the rubber band by the very tip of the taper, wind
the tying silk back to the starting point, and be sure that the tying
silk is wound smoothly. If not, any roughness will show through the
rubber band. Wind the rubber band tightly to about 1/4" back of the eye.
Wind back down and take one turn under the horsehair at the tail end,
wind up to the head and tie off with the tying silk. This now makes
three thicknesses of the rubber band. Form a large head with the tying
silk, fasten securely and you have a very realistic Caddis worm. Fig. 14
is tied about the same as Fig. 7, with a considerable amount of speckled
mallard, and peacock herl used for both the front and back feelers as
well as the legs.

Fig. 15. The Damsel Nymph has a body of dark grey wool with a back of
dark brown or black lacquer. Wings, small red-brown wood duck breast
feathers, feelers dark brown hackle, and a large black head.

{39}

THE HELGRAMITE
(SEE DIAGRAM 7)

The Helgramite Nymph, larva of the Dobson Fly, is such an excellent bass
and trout food, that the making of this nymph deserves special mention.
As my personal way of making this particular nymph differs considerably
from those previously explained, I consider it advisable to go into
further details concerning the construction of this pattern.

I personally like the winged style. That is, with small imitation wings
and horns, or feelers. This represents the nymph in its final underwater
stage, just before emerging from the water as the Dobson Fly. I find
black skunk tail the most satisfactory material for the body of this
nymph. Either light grey swan sides, or light grey pigeon breast
feathers for the wing and legs.


{40}

[Illustration: Diagram 7. Page sized diagram showing drawings of
helgramite construction.]


First wind the waxed tying silk up the shank of the hook beginning
opposite the barb. Clip the fibers closely from a couple of hackle
feathers. These are to form the horns. Bind these hackle quills
to the top of the hook, so that the tip ends project about 1 1/2"
in front of the eye. Take a bunch of black skunk tail about the
size of a match and bind it to the top of the hook, with tip ends
towards the eye of the hook as in Diagram 7, Fig. 1. Next fold the hair
forward and bind down tightly as in Fig. 2. Again fold the hair back and
tie down as in {41} Fig. 3. Then again as in Fig. 4. Notice that each
time the hair is folded back upon itself and tied down, that it forms a
segment of the body, and that each segment increases in size, until your
nymph looks like Fig. 5. At this stage turn the nymph over and tie a piece
of light grey feather about 1/8" wide across the bottom, separate the
fibers with the tying silk to form the legs. Now cut a small light grey
pigeon feather with the centre quill, as dotted line in Fig. 6. Give this
a coat of clear lacquer: when dry, tie flat, on the back of the nymph to
form the first set of wings, as in Fig. 7. Cut another feather and treat
the same way, tie these slightly forward of the first set of wings, and
you have a Dobson Nymph that is very lifelike in appearance.

{42}

BASS FLIES
AND FEATHER STREAMERS

It will appear obvious from a study of Diagram 8, page (43) that the
tying of bass flies and Feather Streamers differs so little from the
tying of wet flies and bucktails that a detailed description will be
unnecessary.

Bass flies are little more than large trout lies, the
principal difference being the feathers that are used for the wings
although the same feathers can be used as for trout flies. It is
customary with commercial tiers to use two whole feathers for the wings,
or the tips of two wings feathers, etc. Place the concave sides together
and tie in the butt ends the same as for a wet fly. Bass flies to be
used as spinner flies, that is, flies to be used with a spinner in
front, should be tied on ring eyed hooks instead of hooks with turned
down or turned up eyes.


{43}

[Illustration: Diagram 8. Page sized diagram showing drawings of bass
flies.]


{44}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of flies tied by the author.]


Certain patterns of these flies have for a long time been famous as
salmon flies in northern New England and Canada and the past few years
have seen them steadily growing in popularity with anglers of
Connecticut, especially for Rainbow Trout. The feathers {45} that are
used for wings are saddle hackles, and from four to eight feathers are
used, hackles of the same size are selected, the tip ends placed even,
and the concave sides of those used for the left side are placed next to
the concave sides of those used for the right side, in other words, both
the right and left side of the wing will be convex, or outside of the
feather. Any of the standard pattern flies can be tied as streamers.
Some of the patterns however, are very elaborate flies; the Supervisor,
for instance, has wings of light blue with shorter feathers of green on
each side, with peacock herl along each wing, polar bear hair, jungle
cock shoulders, a silver body, and a red tag. This fly was developed a
few years ago by Mr. Joseph Stickney, Supervisor of Wardens, State of
Maine, to imitate the smelt, a natural salmon food. The original Supervisor
did not have the jungle cock or the peacock heal. Mr. Stickney suggested
the addition of these feathers to me last year, and I believe that this
is now the approved dressing.


{46}

[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feather streamers tied by
the author.]


{47}

FAMOUS BUCKTAIL AND
FEATHER  STREAMERS

SUPERVISOR: WINGS, Blue saddle hackle with polar bear hair, and
peacock herl down each side. CHEEKS, green hackle tip and jungle
cock. BODY silver. TAG, red wool.

TIGER: (light) WINGS, brownish yellow bucktail or red squirrel
tail. BODY yellow chenille. TAG, gold. TAIL, barred wood duck.
CHEEKS, jungle cock. THROAT, scarlet.

TIGER: (dark) WINGS, yellow bucketful. BODY peacock herl. TAG, gold.
TAIL, barred wood duck. CHEEKS, jungle cock. Short red fin.

GREGG'S DEMON: WINGS, grizzly saddle hackle dyed brown. BODY, silver
ribbed with gold. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TAIL, barred wood duck. TOPPING,
golden pheasant crest. HACKLE, Orange.

JUNGLE PRINCESS: WINGS grizzly saddle hackle dyed yellow with
large jungle cock. CHEEKS, blue chatterer. BODY gold tinsel.
HACKLE, white.

GRIZZLY GREY: WINGS, grizzly saddle hackles. CHEEKS, jungle cock.
TAIL, orange. BODY, silver tinsel. HACKLE, white bucktail.

{48}

HIGHLAND BELLE: WINGS orange saddle hackles inside, grizzly saddle
hackles outside. CHEEKS, jungle cock. BODY, gold tinsel ribbed with
silver tinsel. HACKLE, white bucktail.

SPENCER BAY SPECIAL: WINGS blue saddle hackles inside with furnace
saddle hackles outside. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TAIL, golden pheasant
tippet. BODY, silver tinsel ribbed with oval silver tinsel. HACKLE,
yellow and blue mixed.

BLACK GHOST: WINGS, white saddle hackle. BODY, black silk floss ribbed
with silver. CHEEKS, jungle cock. HACKLE, yellow.

GREY GHOST: WINGS, grey saddle hackle with peacock herl and white
bucktail. BODY, orange floss ribbed with gold. CHEEKS, silver pheasant
feather and jungle cock.

BROWN GHOST: WINGS, brown saddle hackle. BODY, brown floss ribbed
with gold. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TOPPING, golden pheasant crest.
TAIL, golden pheasant crest. HACKLE, yellow.

WARDEN'S WORRY: WINGS one red and one grizzly saddle hackle. HACKLE,
yellow, tied very full.

WHITE MARIBOU: WINGS, white caribou. CHEEKS, large jungle cock and
small red feather. TOPPING, golden pheasant crest.

YELLOW MARIBOU: WINGS, yellow caribou. CHEEKS, large Jungle cock
and small red feather. TOPPING peacock herl. Two complete caribou
feathers can be used, or sections of the feathers, depending upon
the size of the hook. Size 4 long shank hook is a good size to tie
them for salmon.

{49}

FLOATING BUGS AND THEIR
CONSTRUCTION

A style of fishing becoming more popular each year is that of Fly Rod
fishing with Floating Bugs. These Bugs represents the large moth,
butterfly, etc., and are constructed of a large variety of materials.
Some have cork bodies. Some have Balsa Wood bodies.  Others all hair
bodies. Bodies covered with chenille, and other materials. One of the
easiest to make and I believe one of the most successful styles, is
entirely constructed from the body hair of the deer, reindeer, or
caribou. All of these hairs are rather coarse and hollow consequently
are very buoyant, and when properly made into a copy of the living
insect, they have a soft, lifelike body that appears very natural when
taken by a fish. These soft bodied Bugs are not so apt to be ejected
before the Angler has time to set the hook, as are those with hard
bodies.


{50}

[Illustration: Page sized diagram showing bass bugs tied by the author.]


Although the object of this book is to teach the Angler how to tie
his own flies a few words in regards to the writer's personal
experiences in using these Bugs might not be amiss at this time.
Floating Bugs are mostly tied on large size hooks and generally used for
{51} bass. However, I have had a great deal of luck and many pleasant
experiences with them tied as small as a #14 Model Perfect hook, and
used with a 4x Leader. The small sizes will take many large trout, and
are readily accepted by all pan fish. When fishing in still waiters with
the Floating Bugs, whether it be for bass, pickerel, trout or pan fish I
use a light leader, treated so that it will sink. I cast to a likely
looking spot, beside an old stump along lily pads, or to an opening in
the lily pads themselves. I let the Bug hit the water with quite a
splash, as a living moth of the same size would, and there I let
it lie, absolutely motionless, as though stunned by the blow. By all
means do not be impatient, let the Bug lie perfectly still for two or
three minutes, and then simply move the tip of your rod just enough to
cause the Bug to quiver on the surface. Again let it lie perfectly still
for a minute or two; usually about the second time the Bug is made to
quiver you can expect a strike, and when a big bass comes after one of
these Bugs, he comes full of action. When fishing fast water, I fish
them exactly as I would a dry fly, upstream or up and across the
current. My personal choice for color is the natural brownish grey body
hair from either the deer, reindeer, or caribou. Wings, tail and body
all the same natural color. I tie this pattern from size 2/0 Model
perfect hook down to size 14, and us {52} the larger sizes for bass
and pickerel, and the smaller sizes for trout and pan fish. I
remember one very pleasant experience that happened in northern
Maine three years ago. There is a small, deep, spring fed lake of
about ten acres in area, completely surrounded by wilderness; this
lake had been stocked with, Rainbow Trout and closed to all fishing
for five years. I was fortunate in being there about two months after
it had been opened to fishing and was invited to try my luck, after
first being advised that although some very nice catches were regularly
being taken on a Streamer Fly fished deep, also on live bait and worms
with a spinner, no one had even been able to take fish on the surface.
I arrived at this lake about one hour before dark, and it was one of
those evenings when the water was actually boiling with rising trout.
In fact never before or since have I seen so many fish breaking water
at the same time. I immediately made up my mind to take fish on the
surface. I began fishing with a small spider, and changed fly after fly
for the next half hour with the same results as had been experienced by
other dry fly fishermen. In desperation and with darkness fast approaching
I tied on a size 4 Grey Bug and cast about thirty feet from shore. The Bug
hit the water with quite a splash and didn't even as much as put down one
fish, and several continued to {53} rise from within a few inches to a few
feet from where the Bug landed. I waited a couple of minutes and gave the
Bug a little twitch, nothing happened, again I twitched and again nothing
happened.  I began to believe I was stumped when again the Bug was moved
ever so slightly for the fifth time, and remember this was at least seven
minutes after it first hit the water. A fish struck. In a few minutes I
landed a 2 1/4 pound Rainbow. Before darkness had brought the day to a
close I had landed three more beautiful Rainbows averaging 2 pounds
each. I had never since had the opportunity to fish in this beautiful
little lake. Some day I hope to return, and again try, and I believe
succeed in taking these beautiful Rainbow Trout on the conventional
dry fly. However, this one little experience proved conclusively to
me the absolute necessity of patience in fishing Floating Bugs.

FLOATING BUGS:
THEIR CONSTRUCTION
(SEE DIAGRAM 9)

First let us begin by making the most simple; that is, one that has the
Body, Wings, and Tail, all of the same material and color. Follow the
illustrations carefully and even your first attempt will be a
masterpiece.

{54}

Although I use well waxed 00 tying silk, you will find that regular
sewing silk size A will work best on your first attempt. First wax your
thread thoroughly and take a few turns around the shank of the hook and
tie in a small bunch of hairs for the tail, as in Diagram 9, Fig. 1,
page (55). We will assume that we are using regular deer hair cut from
the hide. Next clip a small bunch of hairs, about the size of a match,
close to the hide. You will notice there is some fuzz mixed with the
hair at the base close to the skin, pick out the fuzz and place the
butts of the hairs under the hook as in Fig. 2, Take a couple of loose
turns with the tying silk, hold the tips of the hair with the thumb and
finger of the left hand, and pull the tying silk down tight. You will
notice that the hairs spin around the hook and the butt ends will stand
out pretty much at right angles to the hook, as in Fig. 3. Cut off the
tip end of the hairs on the dotted line, press the hairs back tightly,
apply a drop of water-proof lacquer to the base of the hairs and the
hook, and repeat the same process of tying on a small bunch of hair,
each time pressing it back tightly. Remember this is important, because
the hair must be as close together as possible to make a firm, smooth,
buoyant body.


{55}

[Illustration: Diagram 9. Page sized diagram showing drawings of bass
bug construction.]


When you have built the body up until it looks something like
Fig. 4, remove it from the vise and with a sharp pair of scissors
trim and shape it until it looks {56} like Figs. 5 and 6. At this stage
you should have 3/16" of the shank of the hook left just behind the eye,
where you will tie on the wings. Cover this bare hook with the well waxed
tying silk, and lay a bunch of hair on top of the hook for wings as Fig.
7. Crisscross the tying silk around the wings and the hook until they
are securely tied together. Place several coats of lacquer over he
junction of the wings and hook, to more securely bind them in place.
Lacquer the entire wings if you wish and when they have partially dried,
press them flat, spread them, trim them as Fig. 8, and your Bug is
completed.

Any combination of color may be used, different colored wings and tail,
different colored rings in the body. White body with red tail and wings
is a good pattern. Yellow body, black wings and tail another. Various
feather combinations can be used for wings and tall. Create your own
designs, and develop your patterns.

CORK BODIED BASS BUGS
(SEE DIAGRAM 10)

These high floaters are easy to make and may be tied on most any size
hook desired. Kinked shank hooks should be used to prevent  the body
from turning on the {57} hook. Colored lacquer or enamel can be used to
decorate the bodies, and eyes can be either painted on, or regular small
glass eyes inserted and held in place with water-proof glue or lacquer.
Any of the fancy feathers that are used for regular bass flies can be
used for wings. Hair or feathers can be used for tails, etc. Let us
first make one of these cork bodied Bugs on a size 1/0 hook. Take a 1/2"
cork cylinder and with a razor blade shape it roughly as Diagram 10,
Figs. 1 and 2. Then with a piece of 00 sandpaper held in the right hand
and the cylinder in the left it is a very simple matter to give the body
a nice smooth, shapely finish. Next cut a small V out of the body as in
Fig. 3. This is easier to fit to the hook and easier to cement securely
than simply making a slit in the cork. Press the V slit over the hook as
in Fig. 4. Apply cement or lacquer liberally to the inside of the V
slot, and to the hook shank. Press the piece that was removed securely
back into place, bind tightly with string, as in Fig. 5, and let set
over night. Next day when the cement has thoroughly dried and the body
is permanently fastened to the hook, remove the string and with the
sandpaper touch up any rough places on the body, and give a coat of
lacquer or enamel of the desired color.


{58}

[Illustration: Diagram 10. Page sized diagram showing drawings of cork
bodied bass bug construction.]


When the body enamel has dried, take a pair of feathers for wings (whole
feathers that have the quill in the centre, same as are used for regular
bass fly wings are best), and with the {59} tying silk bind these fast to
the top side of the shoulders as in Fig. 6. Tie on a tail close to the
body, paint on the eyes, paint any other color or designs you wish on
the body, and the Bug is completed.

{60}

[Illustration: Diagram 11. Page sized diagram showing drawings of angler's
knots.]


{61}

ANGLER'S KNOTS

Figs. 1, 2 and 3 in Diagram 11, page (60) show a very convenient way to
tie a dropper loop in the leader; roll the gut between thumb and finger
at (A) Fig. 1, next invert loop (B) through (C) Figs. 2 and 3.

Figs. 4, 5, and 6 make the best knot for or a loop in the end of a
leader, gut snells etc. Pull loop (C) through loop (B) Figs. 5 and 6.

Figs. 7, 8, and 9 are about the easiest and most secure knots for
making leaders, the ends are in the centre of the finished knot and
can be clipped close.

Figs. 10, 11, and 12, the figure eight knot, is the best for tying flies
to the leader, it won't slip, and the pull is in line with the hook
shank.

{62}

MY FAVORITE FLIES

Quite frequently I am asked which fly I like the best, or which
particular patterns I would choose should I carry only a few flies with
me on a trip. That is rather a difficult question to answer.  The
season, the type of fishing and location must be taken into
consideration.

There must be some reason for so many hundreds of patterns. I hardly
believe that any half dozen patterns can be used with constant success
throughout the season, even in one particular locality. There are times,
when fish are feeding, that they will take anything; again one may
change fly after fly without success, when finally a fly will be tried
that will take fish on every cast. Suppose that particular fly wasn't
included in the chosen few, the answer is obvious.

However, I will endeavor to choose six patterns each of the various
styles, and to give my reasons for their choice, but here I assure you
there will always be many more patterns in my fly box for further trial,
after I have exhausted my favorite six.

Beginning with dry flies, my first choice would be {63} a Quill Gordon,
on a size 16 hook. This fly closely represents the numerous duns that
are on or about the water, to some extent, during the entire season. I
have little faith in color in the dry fly, except light or dark shades.
I do believe that the size and shape have a great deal more to do with
the success of a dry fly than color. I have proven to my own
satisfaction that a Quill Gordon sparsely dressed as it should be, but
tied with a black hackle and yellow mallard wings, is just as successful
as the customary dressing.

My second choice would be the Red Ant. Although this fly belongs to the
order Hymenoptera, it can be used when many of the Diptera order are on
the water, such as Cowdung, Blue bottle, Bee, etc. This family all have
flat wings and make an entirely different appearance than the
aforementioned Quill Gordon. I tie the Red Ant on a size 14 hook. I
build the body first of red silk floss, shape it like the body of an
ant, give it a couple of coats of clear lacquer and let it dry hard and
shiny. This body will reflect light, much as the natural insect. I then
tie on two hackle tips for wings. Have them about as long as the hook,
spread them so they are at about a 30 degree angle from the body
and very flat. I then use a brown saddle hackle with fibers about
3/4" long for legs. I put on only two or three turns of the hackle,
and then clip off all of the top and bottom hackles, leaving only
about six fibers sticking {64} straight out on each side. This fly will
float very close to the water, and because of its sparse dressing,
slightly heavy body because of the lacquer, it is not a good floater. It
also has the disadvantage of being hard to see. However, it is still my
second choice, and properly dressed, and fished with a very fine leader,
will take many nice fish.

My third choice is the Fan Wing Royal Coachman. This fly was never
supposed to represent any particular family but I believe it is taken by
fish for the Lepidoptera, large-winged moths and butterflies. It seems
to be very successful when these are about in the evening.

My fourth choice is the Furnace Spider. This fly I tie on a size 16
short shank hook, by winding only about three turns of a furnace saddle
hackle, with fibers about three fourths of an inch long.  Tied in this
manner, without any body or tail, the fly will alight on the water with
the hook down, and looked at from beneath, against the light, only the
little black spot will be noticeable.  This I believe represents some of
the order Coleoptera (beetles) and also the small black gnat (Empidae).
I know if no other ways to tie the Black Gnat small enough to represent
the natural insect, and even on the very smallest hook, the artificial
is usually many times larger than the natural. The small black centre
of the furnace saddle hackle tied in this manner seems to represent
the size of the natural very {65} closely. This fly is a very good
floater and an excellent fly when trout are feeding on those small
insects.

My fifth choice is the Grannon. This fly is of the order of Trihoptera,
and has different shaped wings than any of those previously mentioned,
the wings being quite full and roof shaped.  It is on the water a good
part of the season, and can be used when other flies with this shape
wing are about, such as the alder fly, cinnamon fly, etc.

My next and sixth choice of dry fly would be the Brown Palmer, made on a
size 12 long shank hook with a full body of peacock herl, and palmer
hackle, wound not too full. This I believe is taken by the trout for
many of the caterpillars.

My personal choice of these six patterns should now appear quite
obvious, should it be necessary for me to limit myself to such a small
selection. I have selected one each of the six most prominent orders,
and should any one of the hundreds of families of these orders be in
prominence on the water, I would at least have the correct size or
color.

My choice of the standard pattern wet flies, Feather Streamers, Bucktail
Streamers, and nymphs would be a little more difficult. I am a firm
believer that color plays a very important part in the dressing of wet
flies, as well as size and style. I offer my personal choice of these
styles because of the consistency with which they {66} have taken fish
for me during many years of fishing all parts of the country.

I do not hesitate to say that I have taken more trout, of all kinds, on
a brown hackle with peacock herl body, than any of the other common wet
fly patterns. This is probably because I have used it more. I do believe
that in the north, and especially for brook trout, a fly with a little
red in it is more productive.  Therefore, for northern fishing I would
select Royal Coachman, Parmachene Belle, and Montreal. Other favorite
flies that are good most anywhere in North America are Grizzly King,
Queen O'Waters; Cahill, and Grey Hackle.

Feather Streamers and Hair Streamers are being more extensively used
each year. Many authorities are of firm conviction that these flies
unquestionably represent small minnows, upon which the fish are in the
habit of feeding. This may be true, but I have seen many rubber, metal
and composition minnows, that were exact replicas of the naturals, both
as to color and size, and they would not take fish as would the Feather
or Hair Streamers, fished in the same waters at the same time.

Most of my experience with Feather Streamers and also Hair Streamers
has been for Landlocked Salmon and Rainbow Trout, in big waters.
So I will list these according to the way they have produced for
me. The {67} Black Ghost on a #4 long shank hook has been my most
successful Feather Streamer. Probably because its white streamers are
easily seen by the fish. It will most always raise fish, even if not
the proper fly to make them strike. The Grey Ghost is another, and
one of the most popular streamers in the North for Landlocked Salmon.
This fly, as well as the Supervisor, Spencer Bay Special and numerous
other flies of this style, were originally designed by their creators
to represent the smelt, a favorite food of the salmon. These flies
vary so in their color combinations that I wonder what the fish do
take them for. However, I do know that a Grey Ghost will work when
a Supervisor will not, and vice versa.  One is grey and the other
is blue. When fishing in lakes with a Feather Streamer for trout I have
consistently had most luck with a creation of my own, Gregg's Demon.
This fly was never tied to represent anything, but I have taken many
nice fish on it, and have seen little fellows hardly as long as the fly
itself chase it, and try their best to bite it in two. There is just
something about it that has "fish appeal."

A Brown Bucktail with a silver body on a #6 3x long shank hook rates
number one in Bucktail streamers. Another excellent fly that has been a
favorite for years, is a Yellow and Red Bucktail, with a silver body,
the red only a narrow streak through the centre. This fly has recently
been named "Mickey Finn." A red and {68} white, with silver or gold body
is a real good pattern where there are brook trout, and tied on a large
hook is very good for bass.

I use one with all white bucktail and silver body, the same as I do a
Black Ghost, for locating fish. I find they will most always show their
presence, one way or another when a white fly is cast near them.

An all yellow with black streak in the centre same as the "Mickey Finn"
is another very good combination. This is an excellent pickerel and bass
fly. In fact, most any of these Feather Streamers and Bucktail Streamers
tied on larger hooks, and used with or without a spinner, are excellent
lures for both bass and pickerel.

Nymphs: I have explained elsewhere my liking these lures, and can say
little more except that I always carry the following color combinations
in various sizes. All tied according to styles illustrated in the
diagrams. Cream Belly with Dark Back; Yellow Belly with Black Ribs and
Dark Back; Green Belly with Dark Back; Grey Belly and Gold Ribs with
Dark Back; Brown Belly and Gold Ribs with Black Back; Orange Belly and
Black Ribs with Dark Back.

{69}

STANDARD DRESSINGS OF 334 FLIES
ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED

[Transcriber's Note: Some of the names are not in strict
alphabetical order.]

[Transcriber's Note: The dressing of each fly is described in the
following order:

  NAME
  TAG
  TAIL
  RIBS
  BODY
  HACKLE
  WINGS]

  Abbey
  None
  Orange & black
  Gold
  Red Floss
  Brown
  Grey Mottled (mallard)

  Adams
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  None
  Grey Wool
  Brown and grizzly
  Grey Mottled (mallard)

  Alexandra
  None
  Peacock herl
  None
  Silver
  Black
  Peacock sward and jungle cock

  Alder
  None
  None
  None
  Peacock herl
  Black
  Dark speckled Turkey or Grouse

  Apple Green
  None
  Brown
  None
  Green Silk
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Ash Dun
  None
  Grey
  None
  Silver Grey
  Grey
  Lt. Starling

  August Dun
  None
  Redish
  Yellow
  Lt. Brown Floss
  Redish Brown
  Hen Pheasant

  Autumn Dun
  None
  Black
  Yellow
  Black
  Grey
  Teal Breast

  Babcock
  None
  Black and Yellow
  Gold
  Cardinal Red
  Black
  Black and Yellow

  Barrington
  None
  Grey Speckled
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Brown
  Grey Speckled

  Beauty
  None
  None
  Silver
  Black
  Badger
  Spotted Golden

  Beaverkill
  Gold
  Grey Speckled
  None
  White Floss
  Brown tied palmer
  Grey

  Bee
  Gold
  None
  None
  Black & Yellow chenille
  Brown
  Brown

  Belgrade
  Peacock herl
  Scarlet and white
  None
  Yellow
  Claret tied palmer
  Red, white and jungle cock

  Blue Rooster
  None
  Tan mottled wood duck
  None
  Condor Quill
  Blue Andalusian
  Tan mottled wood duck

  Blue Bi-visible
  None
  None
  None
  Blue floss
  Blue tied palmer
  None

  Black Bi-visible
  None
  None
  None
  Black floss
  Black, tied palmer
  None

  Blue Winged Olive
  None
  Brown
  None
  Green
  Golden Brown
  Blue dun hackle tips

  {70}

  Blue Professor
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Blue floss
  Ginger
  Grey speckled

  Black Nymph
  None
  Brown mottled
  None
  Black herl
  Partridge
  None

  Brown Nymph
  None
  Brown mottled
  None
  Brown herl
  Partridge
  None

  Br. Bi-Visible
  None
  None
  Silver or None
  Brown
  Brown
  None

  Brown Spider
  None
  None
  None
  Brown
  Brown
  None

  Black Spider
  None
  None
  None
  Black
  Black
  None

  Brown Dun
  None
  Brown
  None
  Brown
  Brown
  Starling

  Black Midge
  None
  None
  None
  Black
  Black
  None

  Black Prince
  Silver
  Scarlet
  Silver
  Black floss
  Black
  Black

  Blue Dun
  None
  Pale blue hackle
  None
  Pale blue fur
  Pale blue dun
  Blue grey

  Blue Bottle
  White silk
  None
  Black or Gold
  Steel blue silk or dk. blue chenille
  None
  None

  Black Gnat
  Gold
  None
  None
  Black Chenille
  Black
  Grey

  Black Hackle
  Gold
  None
  None
  Black Chenille
  Black
  None

  Blue Upright
  None
  Pale blue hackle
  None
  Pale blue fur
  Pale blue dun
  Blue Grey

  Brown Hackle
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  None
  Peacock herl
  Brown
  None

  Brown Palmer
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  None
  Peacock herl
  Brown tied palmer
  None

  Brown Hen
  Red Silk
  None
  None
  Peacock herl
  Brown
  Brown mottled

  Blue Quill
  None
  Blue dun hackle
  None
  Quill
  Blue Dun
  Blue Grey

  Black and Silver
  None
  Golden tippet
  None
  Silver
  Black
  Black

  Black and Claret
  None
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Claret Wool
  Black
  Black

  Black June
  None
  None
  Silver
  Peacock herl
  Black
  Dark Grey

  Black Moose
  None
  Green and Yellow
  None
  Green
  Black tied palmer
  Guinea

  Black Quill
  None
  Black
  None
  Quill
  Black
  Dark Grey

  Black Ant
  Black chenille
  None
  None
  Black Silk
  Black
  Slate

  {71}

  Blue and Black
  None
  Golden tippet
  None
  Black
  Black
  None

  Blue Jay
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Red
  Red
  Blue Jay

  Blue Quill
  None
  Blue Dun
  None
  Quill
  Blue Dun
  Grey

  Bonnie View
  Gold
  Grey
  Gold
  Olive Brown
  Brown
  Grey

  Boots Black
  Gold
  Speckled
  Gold
  Red Wool
  Black
  Black

  Bandreth
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Yellow
  Scarlet and yellow
  Grey speckled

  Brown Adder
  Red
  Black & Br. mottled
  None
  Brown silk
  Brown, tied palmer
  Black and brown mottled

  Brown Sedge
  Gold
  None
  Gold
  Brown Silk
  Brown
  Brown

  Bustard and Black
  Silver
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Black Wool
  Black
  None

  Bustard and Orange
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Orange Wool
  Orange
  None

  Butcher
  None
  Scarlet
  None
  Silver
  Black
  Blue black

  Caddis
  Gold
  Grey
  Gold
  Brown Silk
  Brownish Red
  Grey

  Cahill, Dark
  Gold
  Tan Mottled
  None
  Grey Wool or Fur
  Brown
  Tan mottled wood duck

  Cahill, Light
  Gold
  Tan Mottled
  None
  Buff Wool
  Ginger
  Tan Mottled

  Cahill Quill
  None
  Tan Mottled
  None
  Quill
  Grey
  Tan Mottled

  Canada
  Gold
  Claret
  Gold
  Bright Red
  Brown
  Mottled Turkey

  Carpenter
  None
  None
  None
  Rusty red wool
  Red
  Hen Pheasant

  Cardinal
  Gold
  Red
  Gold
  Red Wool
  Light red
  Red

  Claret Gnat
  None
  None
  None
  Claret Wool
  Claret
  Dark Grey

  Cinnamin
  None
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Lemon & Black Wool
  Brown
  Cinnamon

  Coachman
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Brown
  White

  Coachman Leadwing
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Cock-y-bondhu
  Gold
  None
  Gold
  Peacock Herl
  Furnace
  None

  Col. Fuller
  None
  Black and yellow
  Yellow silk
  Scarlet
  Yellow
  Yellow and scarlet

  {72}

  Cow Dung
  None
  None
  None
  Dirty orange herl or yel. green wool
  Brown
  Grey

  Critchley Fancey
  Gold
  Yellow
  Gold
  Yellow
  Yellow and grey
  Grizzly and scarlet

  Cupsuptic
  None
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Red Silk Floss
  Brown
  Yellow

  Dark Sedge
  None
  None
  Gold Wire
  Dk. Green Wool
  Blood Red
  None

  Dark Stone
  None
  None
  Yellow Silk
  Grey Wool
  Grey
  Dark Grey

  Dr. Breck
  None
  Grey Speckled
  None
  Silver
  Scarlet
  White and Scarlet

  Dorset
  None
  Furnace
  None
  Green Wool
  Furnace
  Teal

  Downlooker
  None
  None
  None
  Brown Floss
  Brown, tied palmer
  Brown and black mottled turkey

  Deer Fly
  None
  Black
  None
  Bright Green
  White
  White

  Dusty Miller
  None
  Grey speckled
  Gold Wire
  Grey wool mohair
  Grey
  Dirty Grey Turkey

  Dark Miller
  None
  Br. Hackle
  Brown Silk
  Scarlet
  None
  Yellow and black

  Emerald
  Gold
  None
  Gold
  Lt. Green
  t. Brown
  Brown Mottled

  Evening Dun
  None
  Lt. Blue
  None
  Buff Wool
  Lt. Blue
  Starling

  Epting
  None
  Gey speckled
  None
  Red, orange, & yel. chenille
  Black
  Grey Speckled

  Female Beaverkill
  Yellow chenille
  Grey speckled
  None
  Grey silk or wool
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Female Grannon
  Green
  None
  None
  Brown Floss
  Partridge
  Brown mottled partridge

  Fem. March Br.
  None
  None
  Yellow Silk
  Dk. brown floss
  None
  Brown mottled turkey or grouse

  Ferguson
  Scarlet yel. and herl
  None
  None
  None
  None
  Mottled turkey tail, yellow and red

  Fern Fly
  None
  None
  None
  Orange Floss
  Lt. Red
  Dark Starling

  Feted Green
  None
  Green
  None
  Green
  Green
  Green

  {73}

  Fiery Brown
  gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Redish brown mohair or wool
  R. I. Red
  Bronze

  Flights Fancy
  None
  Ginger
  Gold
  Pale Yel. Floss
  Ginger
  Lt. grey

  Francis Fly
  None
  None
  Red Silk
  Peacock Herl
  None
  Grizzly Dun

  Furnace Dun
  Gold
  Furnace
  None
  Br. & orange wool
  Furnace
  Dark Starling

  Furnace Hackle
  None
  None
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Furnace
  None

  Gen. Hooker
  None
  None
  Yellow
  Green Floss
  Brown
  Mottled grey and brown

  Great Dun
  Brown hairs
  Gold
  Gold
  Brown Floss
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Grey Bi-Visible
  None
  None
  Silver or None
  None
  Grizzly
  None

  Green Nymph
  None
  Green
  Gold
  Green Wool
  Green
  None

  Grey Spider
  None
  None
  None
  Grey
  Grizzly
  None

  Gld. Midge
  None
  None
  Gold
  Pale Green
  Dun
  None

  Great Dun
  Gold
  Brown Hairs
  Gold
  Brown Silk
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Ginger Palmer
  Silver
  None
  Silver
  Yellow or ginger floss
  Ginger, tied palmer
  None

  Ginger Quill
  None
  Ginger
  None
  Quill
  Ginger
  Lt. Grey

  Golden Dun
  Gold
  Grey Speckled
  Gold
  Gold or orange
  Red
  Lt. Grey

  Golden Dun Midge
  Gold
  Grey Hairs
  Gold
  Pale Green Wool
  Light Grey
  Lt. Grey

  Gold Spinner Gold Eyed
  None
  Grey Speckled
  None
  Gold
  Red
  Dark Grey

  Gold Eyed Gauze Wing
  None
  Blue Dun
  None
  Pale yel. and green silk
  Blue Dun
  Blue dun hackle tips

  Gold Monkey
  None
  None
  None
  Yellow Silk Floss
  Grey Speckled
  Dark Grey

  Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear
  Gold
  Dark Hairs
  Gold
  Rabbit's Fur
  None
  Grey


  {74}

  Gold Stork
  None
  Grey speckled
  None
  Gold
  Brown
  Grey speckled

  Golden Eyed Gauze Wing
  None
  None
  None
  Pale Grey
  Pale Grey
  Pale Green

  Good Evening
  Gold
  Orange
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Brown
  Dark blue with white tip

  Gordon
  Gold
  Brown speckled
  Gold
  Yellow
  Grey
  Brown speckled wood duck

  Govenor
  None
  None
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Brown
  Brown mottled turkey

  Gov. Alford
  None
  Scarlet
  None
  Green Herl
  Brown
  Black and Brown

  Grannon
  None
  None
  None
  Brown fur or wool
  Brown or grizzly
  Dark Partridge

  Gravelbed
  None
  None
  None
  Dark Grey
  Black
  Woodcock

  Grey Drake
  None
  Grey Speckled
  Black
  White Floss
  Grey
  Grey speckled

  Grey Hackle peacock
  None
  None
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Grizzly
  None

  Grey Hackle
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  None
  Red wool or silk
  Grizzly
  None

  Grey Hackle yellow
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Yellow wool or silk
  Grizzly
  None
  None

  Grey Marlow
  Gold
  None
  Gold
  Red Wool
  Grey
  Grey

  Grey Miller
  None
  None
  None
  Grey Wool
  Grey
  Grey

  Great Dun
  None
  Brown and Grey
  None
  Maroon Purple and Red Floss
  Grey or Black
  Grey or Black

  Great Red spinner
  None
  Black and white
  Gold
  Red Floss
  Brown
  Slate Grey

  Grey Bodied Ashy
  None
  Golden tippet
  None
  Brown, black, or green herl or wool
  Grey
  None

  Green Drake
  None
  Brown pheasant
  Brown Floss
  Raffia or lemon silk
  Partridge & ginger
  Yellowish Olive

  Green Insect
  None
  None
  None
  Green Herl
  Green
  None

  {75}

  Greenwell's Glory
  None
  Yellow
  Gold
  Olive or Yellow
  Furnace
  Mottled woodcock

  Grizzly King
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Dark Green
  Grizzly
  Grey Speckled

  Grouse & Black
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Black Fur
  Black
  Grouse

  Grouse & Claret
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Claret mohair or wool
  Claret
  Grouse

  Grouse & Green
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Green Wool
  Ginger
  Grouse

  Grouse & Orange
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Orange Wool
  Orange
  Grouse

  Grouse & Peacock
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Peacock Herl
  Dark Red
  Grouse

  Grouse & Purple
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Purple Wool
  Purple
  Grouse

  Grouse Spider
  None
  None
  None
  Orange Floss
  Grouse
  Grouse

  Half Stone
  None
  None
  None
  Yellow
  Honey Dun
  Woodcock

  Hazel-Fly
  None
  None
  None
  Green Herl
  Furnace
  None

  Hemsworth
  Gold & herl
  Golden tippet
  None
  None
  None
  None

  Hammond's Adopted
  Gold
  None
  Gold
  Lt. Brown
  Ginger
  Mottled woodcock

  Hare's Ear
  None
  None
  Yellow Silk
  Rabbit's fur
  Yel. or None
  Grey

  Harlequin
  None
  None
  None
  Orange and lt. blue wool
  Black
  Grey

  Hawthorn
  None
  Black hackle
  None
  Black ostrich herl
  Black
  Lt. Grey

  Hen. Guinea
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Red wool
  Red
  Guinea Fowl

  Henshall
  None
  Peacock Herl
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Lt. Grey
  Grey Speckled

  Hod
  Gold
  None
  Gold
  Pea-Green
  Dark Ginger
  Hen Pheasant

  Hofland Fancy
  None
  Brown
  None
  Red (dark)
  Brown
  Brown and Yellow

  Hoskins
  None
  Golden tippet
  None
  Lemon
  Blue Dun
  Woodcock

  House Fly
  None
  None
  None
  Dun Condor Quill
  Black
  Dark Starling

  Howell
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Peacock Herl
  Claret
  White tip turkey tail

  Ibis and White
  Gold
  Red & White
  Gold
  Red floss
  Rd/ & White
  Red and White

  {76}

  Imbrie
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  White
  Lt. Red
  Dark Starling

  Indian Yellow
  None
  Ginger
  Yellow
  Lt. Brown
  Ginger
  Goose

  Iron Blue Dun
  None
  Yellow
  None
  None
  Blue Dun
  Bluish Black

  Iron Blue Quill
  None
  Blue Dun
  None
  Quill
  Blue Dun lt.
  Blue Dun Hkl. Tip

  Iron Blue Nymph
  None
  Honey Dun
  None
  None
  Honey Dun
  None

  July Dun
  None
  Dun
  None
  Yellow
  Dark Dun
  Starling

  Joe Killer
  None
  Barred woodduck
  None
  Silver
  Short red bucktail
  Yel. & white peacock swd. & jungle cock

  Jenni
  None
  Lavendar or  blue
  Gold
  Yellow floss
  Scarlet
  Lavendar or lt. blue

  Jock Scott
  Black silk
  Yellow & Scarlet
  White floss
  Yellow floss
  Grouse & Guinea
  Yel. & grey speckled  scarlet & jungle cock

  Jennie Spinner
  Orange and brown
  Cream hackle
  None
  White horse hair
  Silver Blue
  Silver blue hackle tips or None

  Jungle Cock
  None
  Scarlet
  Gold or white
  Blue grey fur
  Claret or blk.
  Dark brown and jungle cock

  Katy-did
  None
  Black Hairs
  Gold Wire
  Green floss
  Green
  Green

  King O'Waters
  Gold
  Grey Speckled
  Gold
  Red floss
  Brown
  Grey Speckled

  Kingdon
  Gold
  None
  Green floss
  White floss
  Dark
  Woodcock

  King Fisher
  None
  None
  None
  Silver
  Lt. Blue
  Kingfisher

  Kitson
  Gold
  Black Hairs
  Gold
  Yellow
  Claret
  Yellow with black cheeks

  La Branche
  Gold
  Grey
  Gold
  Blue Grey Fur
  Blue Dun
  Grey

  Lady Doctor
  Gold and red wool
  Two yellow hackle
  None
  Yellow Wool
  Yel. tied palm.
  Polar bear and Black hair and jungle cock

  Lady Beaverkill
  Yellow chenile
  Grey Speckled
  None
  Grey (dark)
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  {77}

  Lake Edward
  None
  Golden Crest
  Gold
  Claret Wool
  Claret
  Pea Green

  Lake George
  None
  White and scarlet
  Gold
  Scarlet floss
  White
  White & Scarlet

  Lake Green
  None
  None
  Green Silk
  Canary yellow
  Ginger
  Teal Breast

  Laramie
  None
  Scarlet
  Silver
  Scarlet floss
  Dark Blue
  Grey Mottled

  Lt. Stone
  None
  Grey
  Yellow Silk
  Grey
  Grey
  Grey

  Little Marryat
  None
  Brown
  None
  Lt. grey or herl
  Brown
  Dark grey

  Ld. Baltimore
  None
  None
  Black Silk
  Orange Silk
  Black
  Black and jungle

  Lowery
  None
  None
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Brown
  Lt.  Brown

  Lt. Montreal
  Gold
  Grey Mottled
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Claret
  Grey Speckled

  Lt. March Br.
  None
  Partridge hackle
  None
  Olive & Br. fur
  Partridge
  Lt. mottled partridge

  Magpie
  None
  Black Hairs
  None
  Black
  Black
  Black with whit tip

  Mallard & Amber
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Amber floss
  Lt. Red
  Brown mallard breast

  Mallard & Claret
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Claret wool
  Lt. Red
  Brown mallard breast

  Mallard & Green
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Green Wool
  Lt. Red
  Brown mallard breast

  Mallard & Red
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Red wool
  Lt. Red
  Brown mallard breast

  March Brown
  None
  Grouse
  Yellow Silk
  Br. or Grey fur
  Grouse
  Dark Brown mottled turkey or grouse

  March Br. Ginger
  None
  Ginger
  None
  Brown fur
  Ginger
  Dark Brown mottled  turkey or grouse

  March Br. Nymph
  None
  Partridge
  Gold
  Yellow wool
  Partridge
  None

  Markam
  None
  Scarlet and white
  None
  Yellow
  Scarlet
  Dark Brown with white tips

  Marlow Buzz
  None
  None
  Gold
  Peacock Herl
  Furnace
  None

  Marston's Fancy
  None
  None
  None
  Brown Fur
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Massasaga
  Gold
  Ibis
  Gold
  Green floss
  Canary Yellow
  Canary Yellow

  Maxwell Blue
  None
  Lt. Blue
  Silver
  Grey
  Lt. Blue
  None

  McGinty
  None
  Grey speckled and scarlet
  None
  Black and Yel. chenille
  Brown
  Brown with white tip

  {78}

  Mealy Moth
  None
  None
  Silver
  Lt. Grey Wool
  White
  White

  Mershon
  Silver
  Black Hairs
  Silver
  Black
  Black
  Dark blue with whit tip

  Merson White
  None
  Black Hairs
  None
  White
  Black
  Dark blue

  Mole
  None
  Brown Hairs
  Gold
  Dk. brown floss
  Brown tied palmer
  Brown mottled mallard

  Montreal
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Claret floss
  Claret
  Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse

  Montreal Claret
  Gold
  Claret
  Gold
  Claret floss
  Claret
  Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse

  Montreal Silver
  None
  Scarlet
  None
  Silver
  Claret
  Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse

  Montreal Yellow
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Yellow floss
  Claret
  Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse

  Morison
  None
  Black
  Black
  Claret
  Black
  Black

  Mowry
  None
  Black Hairs
  None
  Black
  Black
  Black with white tip

  Needle Brown
  None
  None
  None
  Orange
  Dark Brown
  None

  Neversink
  None
  Black
  None
  Pale buff wool
  Yellow
  Teal breast

  New Page
  Gold
  Gold
  speckled
  Yellow floss
  Brown
  Mottled brown and red

  Olive Dun
  Gold
  Olive Dun
  Gold or None
  Olive Wool
  Olive Dun
  Lt. blue grey or olive dun hackle tips

  Olive Quill
  None
  Olive
  None
  Quill
  Olive
  Olive

  Orange & Bk.
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Orange Wool
  Black
  None

  Orange Dun
  None
  None
  None
  Orange Wool
  Dk. Brown
  Lt. Brown

  Olive Nymph
  None
  Olive
  None
  Mot. Br. wool
  Olive
  None

  Orange Miller
  None
  None
  Gold
  Orange floss
  White
  White

  Orange Sedge
  None
  None
  Gold
  Orange floss
  Brown tied palmer
  Red, Brown

  Oriole
  None
  Yellow
  Gold
  Black floss
  Black
  Yellow

  {79}

  Oak
  None
  Black
  None
  Orange floss
  Brown
  Dark grey and Lt. Brown mottled

  Pale Blue Dun
  None
  Pale Blue
  None
  Pale Blue Fur
  Pale Blue
  Pale blue hackle tips or None

  Pale Buff
  None
  Pale Buff
  None
  Pale Buff Wool
  Pale Buff
  Pale Buff

  Pale Eve. Dun
  None
  None
  Br. silk or None
  Lemon floss
  Lt. blue grey or grizzly
  Lt. Blue Grey

  Pale Sulphur
  None
  Pale Yel. Hairs
  None
  Pale Yellow
  Pale Yellow
  Pale Yellow

  Orange Tag
  None
  None
  None
  None
  None
  None

  Pale Watery
  None
  Yellow
  None
  Olive Wool
  Pale Yellow
  Grey

  Pale Watery Quill
  None
  Yellow
  None
  Quill
  Pale Yellow
  Grey

  Pale Yellow
  None
  None
  None
  Yellow
  Yellow
  Pale Yellow

  Parmachene Beau
  Peacock herl
  Scarlet and white
  Gold
  Yellow floss or mohair
  Scarlet and white
  Scarlet, White jungle cock

  Parmachene Belle
  Peacock herl
  Scarlet and white
  Gold
  Yellow floss or mohair
  Scarlet and White
  Scarlet & white

  Parson
  None
  Golden tippet
  Silver wire
  Silver
  Black
  Bronze

  Peter Ross
  None
  Golden tippet
  None
  Bright Yel.
  Ginger
  None

  Pheasant
  None
  None
  Gold
  Yellow floss
  Ginger
  Bronze

  Pheasant, Gold
  None
  Golden tippet
  Gold Wire
  Gold
  Pheasant
  Pheasant, Wing

  Pheasant, Silver
  None
  Golden tippet
  Silver Wire
  Silver
  Pheasant
  Pheasant, Wing

  Pheasant & Yel.
  None
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Yellow floss
  Pheasant
  Pheasant, Wing

  Pink Lady
  Gold
  Pheasant
  Gold
  Pink floss
  Brown
  Grey Speckled

  Pink Wickhams
  None
  Brown
  None
  Pink floss
  Brown tied palmer
  Grey Speckled

  Polka
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Scarlet floss
  Scarlet
  Guinea

  Poor Mans Fly
  None
  Ginger
  None
  Brown Wool
  Ginger
  Grey Speckled

  {80}

  Portland
  None
  Grey Speckled
  Gold
  Red floss
  Red
  Teal breast

  Preston's Fancy
  None
  Brown Hairs
  None
  Gold
  Brown
  Grey with white spot

  Priest
  None
  Red Ibis
  Silber
  Silver
  Badger
  None

  Prime Gnat
  None
  None
  None
  Brown
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Professor
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Yellow floss
  Brown
  Grey Speckled

  Quaker
  None
  None
  Silver
  Grey Wool
  Grey
  Grey Speckled

  Queen O'Waters
  None
  None
  Gold
  Orange floss
  Br. Palmer
  Grey Speckled

  Quill Gordon
  None
  Tan speckled
  Gold Wire or None
  Quill
  Blue Dun
  Tan speckled wood duck

  Raven
  None
  Golden tippet
  None
  Black chenille
  Black
  Black Crow

  Red Ant
  Herl
  None
  None
  Red floss
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Red Fox
  None
  Speckled Teal
  None
  Redish Brown or wool
  None
  None

  Red Quill
  None
  Dark Red
  None
  Red Quill
  Dark Red
  Med. Starling

  Red Ibis
  None
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Scarlet floss
  Scarlet
  Scarlet

  Red Spinner
  Gold
  Brown Hairs
  Gold
  Red
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Red Tag
  Red Silk
  Red
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Brown
  None

  Rd. Bod. Ashy
  None
  None
  None
  Red Wool
  Brown Palmer
  None

  Ross McKenney
  Gold
  Barred wood duck
  Gold
  Brown Wool
  None
  White and red bucktail and jungle cock

  Royal Coachman
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  None
  Peacock herl with scarlet red band
  Hackle Brown
  White

  Rube Wood
  Red
  Grey Speckled
  None
  White Chenille
  Lt. Brown
  Grey Speckled

  Ruben Wood
  None
  Tan speckled
  None
  White Chenille
  Lt. Brown
  Tan speckled

  Saltoun
  None
  Ginger
  Silver
  Black floss
  Black
  Lt. Starling

  Sand-Fly
  None
  Lt. Ginger
  None
  Copper Brown
  Lt. Ginger
  Yellowish Brown

  Sassy Cat
  None
  Scarlet
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Yellow
  Yellow, scarlet cheeks

  {81}

  Seth Green
  None
  None
  Yellow
  Green floss
  Claret
  Grey speckled

  Seth Green Turkey
  None
  None
  Yellow
  Green floss
  Brown
  Brown mottled

  Shad Fly
  None
  None
  Green
  Peacock Herl
  None
  Brown mottled

  Shoemaker
  None
  Tan speckled
  None
  Pink & Grey
  Brown
  Mottled Woodcock

  Silver Doctor
  None
  Yel. blue green and red
  None
  Silver
  Blue & Guinea
  Brown, red, blue, green and yellow

  Silver Horns
  None
  None
  None
  Copper floss
  Grouse
  None

  Silver Sedge
  None
  None
  None
  Silver
  Brown Palmer
  Brown

  Silver Stock
  None
  Grey Speckled
  None
  Silver
  Brown
  Teal breast

  Soldier Palmer
  None
  None
  Gold
  Red Wool
  Brown Palmer
  None

  Spent Gnat
  None
  Brown
  Peacock herl
  Wt. Floss or Quill
  None
  Blue Hkl. tips

  Sedge, light
  None
  None
  None
  Pale Buff wool
  Ginger
  Hen pheasant

  Sniper & Yel.
  None
  None
  None
  Pale Yel. floss
  Snipe
  None

  Stebbins
  None
  Grey Speckled
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Grouse
  Dark Starling

  Stone
  None
  Grey
  Yellow
  Grey Wool
  Grey
  Grey

  Sunset
  Green chenille
  None
  None
  Yellow chenille
  Yellow
  White

  Swiftwater
  None
  Grey Speckled
  None
  Peacock herl
  Brown
  White

  Teal & Black
  None
  Golden tippet
  None
  Black wool
  Black
  Teal breast

  Teal & Orange
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Orange wool
  Olive
  Teal breast

  Teal & Gold
  None
  Golden tippet
  None
  Gold
  Dk. Brown
  Teal breast

  Teal & Red
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Red wool
  Olive
  Teal breast

  Teal & Silver
  None
  Golden tippet
  None
  Silver
  Badger
  Teal breast

  Teal & Yellow
  Silver
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Yellow wool
  Ginger
  Teal breast

  {82}

  Tippet & Black
  Silver
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Black wool
  Black
  Golden tippet

  Tippet & Red
  Silver
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Red wool
  Dk. Brown
  Golden tippet

  Tippet & Silver
  Silver
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Silver
  Badger
  Golden tippet

  Tootle Bug
  Blue
  Scarlet
  None
  Orange & Yel.
  Br. palmer
  Brown Mottled

  Tups Indispensable
  None
  Honey Dun
  None
  Yellow
  Honey Dun
  None

  Turkey Brown
  None
  None
  Red
  Brown
  Brown
  Brown

  Turkey Professor
  Gold
  Red
  None
  Yellow floss
  Brown
  Brown mottled

  Van Patten
  None
  Scarlet
  Gold
  White
  Brown
  Grey speckled

  Varient, Gold
  None
  None
  None
  Gold
  Blue Dun
  Starling

  Water Cricket
  None
  None
  Black
  Orange
  Black
  None

  Watson's Fancy
  Gold
  Golden tippet
  Gold
  Red & Blk. wool
  Black
  Black hackle tips

  Welshman's Button
  None
  None
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Furnace
  Landrail

  Western Bee
  None
  None
  None
  Yellow & Black chenille
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Whirling Blue Dun
  Gold
  Ginger
  None
  Blue Grey Fur
  Ginger
  Blue Grey

  White Hackle
  None
  None
  Silver
  White floss
  White
  None

  White Miller
  None
  None
  Silver
  White floss
  White
  White

  White Moth
  Silver
  None
  None
  White Chenille
  White
  White

  Wickham's Fancy
  None
  Brown hairs
  None
  Gold
  Br. palmer
  Grey

  Wickham Pink
  None
  Red
  None
  Red & Gold
  Lt. Reddish
  Landrail

  Widow
  None
  None
  White
  Purple Floss
  Black
  Black

  Willow
  None
  None
  Yellow
  Green
  Brown
  Dark Grey

  Wilkson
  None
  None
  None
  Orange
  Orange
  Teal breast

  Witch Gold
  Gold
  Red Ibis
  Gold
  Grey Wool
  Badger
  None

  Whitechurch Dun
  None
  Grey Speckled
  None
  Yellow floss
  Ginger
  Lt. Grey

  White Wickhams
  None
  Brown Hairs
  None
  White floss
  White, palmer
  Grey

  {83}

  Woodcock & Gold
  None
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Gold
  Ginger
  Mottled Woodcock

  Woodcock & Grn.
  None
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Green wool
  Green
  Mottled Woodcock

  Woodcock & Red
  None
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Red wool
  Reddish brown
  Mottled Woodcock

  Woodcock & Yellow
  None
  Golden tippet
  Silver
  Yellow wool
  Woodcock
  Mottled Woodcock

  Worm Fly
  None
  None
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Ginger
  None

  Yel. Bi-visible
  None
  None
  None
  Yellow wool
  Yel. and white palmer
  None

  Yel. Coachman
  None
  None
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Brown
  Yellow

  Yel. Dun
  None
  None
  None
  Yel. wool
  Honey Dun
  Lt. Starling

  Yel. Hackle
  None
  None
  Gold
  Yellow floss
  Yellow
  None

  Yel. Professor
  Gold
  Scarlet
  Gold
  Yellow floss
  Brown
  Yellow Speckled

  Yel. May
  None
  Yel. Speckled
  Gold or black
  Yellow floss
  Yellow
  Yellow Speckled

  Yel. Miller
  None
  None
  Gold
  Yel. & Herl
  White
  White

  Yel. Spider
  None
  Yellow
  None
  Yellow
  Yel. (long)
  None

  Yel. Sally
  None
  Yellow
  Gold
  Yellow
  Yellow
  Yellow

  Zulu
  Gold
  Red
  None
  Peacock Herl
  Black
  None


The Barnes Sports Library

This library of practical sports books covers fundamentals, techniques,
coaching and playing hints and equipment for each sport.  Leading
coaches and players have been selected to write these books, so each
volume is authoritative and based upon actual experience.  Photographs
or drawings, or both, illustrate techniques, equipment and play.

  ARCHERY
  by Reichart & Keasey

  BAIT CASTING
  by Gilmer Robinson

  BASEBALL
  by Daniel E. Jessee

  BASKETBALL
  by Charles C. Murphy

  BASKETBALL FOR GIRLS
  by Meissner & Meyers

  BASKETBALL OFFICIATING
  by Dave Tobey

  BETTER BADMINTON
  by Jackson & Swan

  BICYCLING
  by Ruth and Raymond Benedict

  BOWLING FOR ALL
  by Falcaro & Goodman

  BOXING
  by Edwin L. Haislet

  FENCING
  by Joseph Vince

  FIELD HOCKEY FOR GIRLS
  by Josephine T. Lees

  FLY CASTING
  by Gilmer Robinson

  FOOTBALL
  by W. Glenn Killinger

  GOLF
  by Patty Berg

  HANDBALL
  by Bernath E. Phillips

  HOW TO TIE FLIES
  by E. C. Gregg

  ICE HOCKEY
  by Edward Jeremiah

  JIU-JITSU
  by Frederick P. Lowell

  LACROSSE
  by Tad Stanwick

  LAWN GAMES
  by John R. Tunis

  PHYSICAL CONDITIONING
  by Stafford & Duncan

  RIDING
  by J. J. Boniface

  RIFLE MARKSMANSHIP
  by Lt. Wm. L. Stephens

  ROPING
  by Bernard S. Mason

  SIX-MAN FOOTBALL
  by Ray O. Duncan

  SKATING
  by Putman & Parkinson

  SKIING
  by Walter Prager

  SOCCER AND SPEEDBALL FOR GIRLS
  by Florence L. Hupprich

  SOFTBALL
  by Arthur T. Noren

  SOFTBALL FOR GIRLS
  by Viola Mitchell

  SWIMMING
  by R. J. H. Kiphuth

  TABLE TENNIS
  by Jay Purves

  TENNIS
  by Helen Jacobs

  TOUCH FOOTBALL
  by John V. Grombach

  TRACK AND FIELD
  by Ray M. Conger

  VOLLEY BALL
  by Robert Laveaga

  WRESTLING
  by E. C. Gallagher

Clair Bee's Basketball Library

  THE SCIENCE OF COACHING
  ZONE DEFENSE AND ATTACK

  MAN-TO-MAN DEFENSE AND  ATTACK
  DRILLS AND FUNDAMENTALS





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