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Title: The Gastronomic Regenerator: - a Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery, with - nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts suited to the income - of all Classes
Author: Soyer, Alexis
Language: English
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THE
Gastronomic Regenerator:
A
SIMPLIFIED AND ENTIRELY NEW
SYSTEM OF COOKERY,
WITH NEARLY
TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECEIPTS
SUITED TO THE INCOME OF ALL CLASSES.
ILLUSTRATED WITH
NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS
AND CORRECT AND MINUTE PLANS HOW KITCHENS OF EVERY SIZE, FROM THE
KITCHEN OF A ROYAL PALACE TO THAT OF THE HUMBLE COTTAGE,
ARE TO BE CONSTRUCTED AND FURNISHED.
BY
MONSIEUR A. SOYER,
OF THE REFORM CLUB.
SIXTH EDITION.
LONDON:
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT:
AND SOLD BY
JOHN OLLIVIER, PALL-MALL.
1849.
[Illustration: BARFF TUCKER, del. J. WALMSLEY, sculp.]
[Illustration]
TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE.
YOUR ROYAL HIGHNESS,
The gracious condescension which permits of the dedication of this Work
to your Royal Highness, adds another to the many claims upon my
devotedness and my gratitude.
I have the high honour to be
Your Royal Highness’
Most obedient and humble Servant,
ALEXIS SOYER.
THE FOLLOWING DISTINGUISHED PERSONS HAVE HONOURED THE AUTHOR WITH
THEIR APPROBATION, AND THIS VOLUME, WITH THE KITCHEN PLAN OF THE
REFORM CLUB, WERE COMMENCED UNDER THEIR PATRONAGE.
H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge.
Ernest reigning Duke of Saxe-Cobourg.
H. R. H. the Duke of Sussex.
H. R. H. the Hereditary Prince of Saxe-Cobourg and Gotha.
H. R. H. the Prince of Prussia.
Archduke Frederic of Austria.
Prince Biron de Courlande.
Princess Clementine of France.
The Duke of Leinster.
The Duke of Bedford.
The Duchess of Sutherland.
La Duchesse d’Escars.
La Duchesse de Lorges.
La Duchesse de Valmy.
The Countess of Essex.
The Countess of Carlisle.
The Dowager Marchioness of Downshire.
The Countess of Clare.
The Countess of Craven.
The Baroness de Ludwigsdorff (Sweden.)
Lady Eliza Phillips.
Lady Flower.
Lady Throgmorton.
Lady Elibank.
The Marquis of Ailsa.
The Marquis of Normanby.
The Marquis of Lansdowne.
The Marquis of Clanricarde.
The Marquis of Titchfield.
The Marquis of Headfort.
The Marquis of Salisbury.
Marquieza das Minas.
Marquieza das Furjel.
The Earl Fortescue.
The Earl of Pembroke.
The Earl of Chesterfield.
The Earl of Devon.
The Earl of Yarborough.
The Earl of Charlemont.
The Count Hatzfeldt (Prussia).
Count Woronzow.
Countess Woronzow.
The Earl Grosvenor.
The Earl of Clarendon.
The Earl of Sefton.
Le Baron de Molartie (great Echanson to the King of Hanover).
Le Baron Adolphe de Rothschild.
La Baronne de Rothschild.
La Baronne de Weiber (Baden).
Le Comte de Rancher (France).
Le Comte de Pradel (France).
Lord Ebrington.
Lord Dinorben.
Lord Maidstone.
Lord Marcus Hill, M.P.
Le Vicomte de Noailles (France).
Viscount Duncannon.
Lord James Stuart.
Lord Mostyn.
Lord Jermyn.
Lord Say and Sele.
Lord Dudley Coutts Stuart.
Lord Panmure.
Lord F. Gordon.
Lord Hastings.
Lord Scarborough.
Lord Nugent.
Lord Lovat.
Lord Templetown.
Lord Clement.
Lord Augustus Fitzclarence.
Lord Vivian.
Sir George Chetwynd.
Sir Benjamin Hall, M.P.
Sir Henry Webb.
Sir Andrew Leith Hay, M.P.
Sir D. Le Marchant.
Sir John Guest, M.P.
Sir Hesketh Fleetwood, M.P.
Sir James Duke, M.P.
Sir John Easthope, M.P.
Sir. R. Musgrave.
Le Chevalier A. Mongaldi (Venice).
Sir John M’Neil.
Sir Henry Pottinger.
The Right Honorable Fox Maule, M.P.
The Honorable H. R. Westenra.
The Honorable J. O. Murray.
Lieutenant-Colonel Westenra.
Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon.
Major-General Evans.
Admiral Dundas, M.P.
General Sir Alexander Duff, Bart.
General Johnson.
Le General Baron de Farincourt (France.)
Colonel Sir William Robert Clayton.
Colonel White.
Colonel Beckwith.
Major Richardson.
Captain Noble Cæsar de Ladacio (Naples).
Lieut. Gen. Baron de Warlington (Bavaria).
Capitaine de Vaisseaux F. Gautier (France).
Admiral Codrington.
El Gen. Martin Joié de Triarte (Spain).
Captain Robert Scherger (Cobourg).
The Honorable General Mead.
The Honorable Captain Vivian, M.P.
Daniel O’Connell, Esq., M.P.
Maurice O’Connell, Esq., M.P.
John O’Connell, Esq., M.P.
George Duncan, Esq., M.P.
Edward Ellice, Esq., M.P.
Robert Archbold, Esq., M.P.
The Rev. Charles Turnor, D.D.
Captain Wemyss.
Alston, Rowland, Esq.
Basevi, George, Esq.
Bryane, W. C. Esq. (America).
Bavin Christopher, Esq.
Boyd, W. Esq.
Buckland, James, Esq.
Hawes, B. Esq.
M. Dusillion, Architect, Paris.
Barry, Charles, Esq.
Bonverie, Edward Pleydell, Esq.
Collins, William, M.D.
Clumy, Thomas, Esq.
Clayton, John, Lloyd, Esq.
Diwett, Thomas, Esq.
Dardel, Monsieur de.
Dann, Henry, Esq.
Faraday, Professor.
Gully, John, Esq.
Gunston, John, Esq.
Gordon, Robert, Esq.
Hoare, Charles, Esq.
Harmer, James, Esq.
Hope, ----, Esq.
Hovenden, J. E. Esq.
Humphrey, John, Alderman, M.P.
Melik, A. Esq., (Turkey).
Montefiore, N. Esq.
Murphy, Mr. Sergeant.
Oliviera, Benjamin, Esq.
O’Brien, Stafford, Esq.
Perkins, Frederic, Esq.
Philips, Mark, Esq., M.P.
Prescott, H. Esq.
Rushton, E. A. Esq.
Strutt, Edward, Esq., M.P.
Sampayo, O. H. Esq.
F. A. Sarg, Esq.
Wolfe, J. L. Esq.
PREFACE.
[Illustration]
At the request of several persons of distinction, who have visited the
Reform Club,--particularly the ladies, to whom I have always made it a
rule never to refuse anything in my power, for indeed it must have been
the fair sex who have had the majority in this domestic argument to gain
this gastronomical election,--Why do you not write and publish a
Cookery-book? was a question continually put to me. For a considerable
time this scientific word caused a thrill of horror to pervade my frame,
and brought back to my mind that one day, being in a most superb library
in the midst of a splendid baronial hall, by chance I met with one of
Milton’s allegorical works, the profound ideas of Locke, and several
chefs-d’œuvre of one of the noblest champions of literature,
Shakspeare; when all at once my attention was attracted by the
nineteenth edition of a voluminous work: such an immense success of
publication caused me to say, “Oh! you celebrated man, posterity counts
every hour of fame upon your regretted ashes!” Opening this work with
intense curiosity, to my great disappointment what did I see,--a receipt
for Ox-tail Soup! The terrifying effect produced upon me by this
succulent volume made me determine that my few ideas, whether culinary
or domestic, should never encumber a sanctuary which should be entirely
devoted to works worthy of a place in the Temple of the Muses.
But you must acknowledge, respected readers, how changeable and
uncertain are our feeble ideas through life; to keep the promise above
mentioned, I have been drawn into a thousand gastronomic reflections,
which have involved me in the necessity of deviating entirely from my
former opinion, and have induced me to bring before the public the
present volume, under the title of ‘The Gastronomic Regenerator,’
throughout which I have closely followed the plain rules of simplicity,
so that every receipt can not only clearly be understood, but easily
executed.
I now sincerely hope, Ladies, that I have not only kept my promise, but
to your satisfaction paid tribute to your wishes.
You have not forgotten, dear reader, the effect that monstrous volume,
the said nineteenth edition, produced upon me, therefore I now sincerely
beg of you to put my book in a place suited to its little merit, and not
with Milton’s sublime Paradise, for there it certainly would be doubly
lost.
[Illustration]
PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION.
The sale of three editions of the Gastronomic Regenerator in less than
nine months, is so gratifying to my feelings, that I should be wanting
in courtesy, were I not publicly to express, at this present moment, how
grateful I am for the very flattering testimonials I have been honoured
with by the press, through whom I have received such great encouragement
from the public, who so handsomely repaid the laborious work which I
have devoted to the gastronomic art.
In this the Fourth Edition, I have increased and improved the receipts,
and corrected those errors which unavoidably occur in so voluminous a
work.
The first improvement is a most essential one, being an abbreviated
table of contents, referring from number to number or article to
article, and giving in a few pages the translation of every comestible,
which will much facilitate the making of bills of fare.
The second and still more important improvement is my new Tendon
Separator, demonstrated by a scientific woodcut, with full explanations
of its valuable use in preparing poultry and game for the table.
I have added several new receipts, communicated by amateurs, which are
not deficient in good taste.
There will likewise be found a correct engraving of my Bouquet de
Gibier, which met with so much success in London and Paris last
Christmas, and offers to noblemen and gentlemen a new and pleasing mode
of making presents of game.
The one I presented to His Majesty Louis Philippe, with a copy of this
work, met with the highest approbation from the court of France, and was
most handsomely acknowledged by his Majesty.
I now most humbly return thanks to the public for their kind
encouragement, and trust that the success I have hitherto had may still
be continued.
ALEXIS SOYER.
DUBLIN;
_St. Patrick’s Day, 1847_.
IMPORTANT.
DESCRIPTION OF THE COMPOSITION OF THIS WORK.
To sustain and deserve the title of “Gastronomic Regenerator,” nothing
but an entire change from the system of any other publication on the art
of Cookery would be admissible, it is now in the hands of my readers to
judge for themselves, and to stamp its character according to its
merits, either as an original or a copy; to avoid the last, however, I
have closely studied to introduce the greatest novelty in every
department, and have entirely omitted all unnecessary confusion, which,
in many previous works, have rendered them unintelligible to the
uninitiated, and almost impracticable to the initiated; however, many
old and useful receipts, too good to be omitted, will be found much
simplified--to reduce them to a practical point.
I have also minutely studied the disposing and arranging of the building
of all sized kitchens, from the one of the Reform Club and the Kitchen
of the Wealthy to the humble one of the cottage, which cannot fail to
prove useful when closely followed, as six years of experience in the
kitchen of the Reform Club[1] has fully proved to me that those useful
departments have not only previously been much neglected, but in many
instances at a very great expense still worse arranged for want of
practical knowledge, and considering that the pleasures of the table are
an every-day enjoyment which reflects good and evil on all classes, my
readers I am sure will agree with me that the proper disposing of such
an important department deserves some little attention, for food
uncomfortably prepared is almost always unsightly, unwholesome, and
consequently indigestible, not being cleanly prepared.
I have likewise omitted in this work the placing of a long series of
bills of fare, which has been done in every previous publication;
although they might have proved useful in some few circumstances, they
are seldom referred to, and often create confusion in the composition of
a dinner by the difficulty of procuring perhaps the identical
comestibles required in the receipts which the bills of fare refer to;
and more I would venture to say, that in no circumstances have those
bills of fare been correctly followed; the only three I have introduced
being one to arrange my pagodatique service to grace the Table of the
Wealthy, the other the Lucullusian dinner, and the dinner of my Table at
Home, which will give a general idea of the manner in which I usually
compose my bills of fare, which of course may be increased or decreased
to any size. To avoid the old-fashioned method of giving ten or twelve
for every season in the year, I have made the whole contents of my book
one regular bill of fare, which will enable the most inexperienced cook,
_or young lady just commencing housekeeping_, to compose a recherché or
economical bill of fare at will, being so distributed, that after a
short series of sauces the bill of fare commences, being first the
soups, then the fish, then the hors-d’œuvres, or flying dishes, to be
handed round the table during the time the removes and entrées are
placing upon it; this is the usual manner I serve a dinner, which cannot
fail to be very hot; and to prevent confusion, which too often occurs, I
place a number on a piece of paper between the cover and the dish, with
a corresponding number to the name of the dish upon the bill of fare,
which is then forwarded to the steward, who by this means not only
understands the better placing it upon the table, but is able to answer
to any questions respecting the dinner, thus saving time and confusion;
and, above all, the dinner will be very hot and inviting, which would
not be the case in the regular system of laying out the whole of the
first course first upon the kitchen table, having to uncover every dish
unnecessarily, then upon another table in a room adjoining the
dining-room, and third and last, upon the dining-table, adding to which
the chance of confusion and innumerable delays, in which your dinner is
getting quite cold. In a plate service of sixteen entrées, which I was
directed by the committee of the Reform Club to order, I introduced
silver sand concealed in the heaters; thus by placing them two hours in
a hot closet previous to serving, they will retain their heat nearly a
couple of hours longer upon the table, but for further details, see
Pagodatique Dish at the end of the book. But to return to the
arrangement of my book: after the hors-d’œuvres come the removes,
flancs, entrées, in succession in the first course, and for the second
the roasts, savoury dishes, vegetables, entremets, and removes second
course; thus my readers will have but to turn from one series to another
in succession to arrange their bills of fare.
For any description of plain joints frequently required in the first
course, they will be found at the commencement of the series entitled My
Kitchen at Home.
For a public breakfast, luncheon, or suppers, where everything is partly
cold, the series of savoury dishes in the second course will be found to
facilitate and very much abbreviate the composition of the bill of fare
for either of the above purposes.
In the department entitled My Kitchen at Home will be found the same
arrangements, and the repetition of many dishes from the Kitchen of the
Wealthy, but so much simplified that the industrious classes of society
may partake freely of them at a very moderate expense.
I shall also remark that my motive in not making a translation to my
index, but merely naming at the commencement of each series the
different comestibles, is to avoid the following ridiculous occurrence,
that is, the making of bills of fare in English from such curious
translation, not one of which have I seen deserving publication, being
composed of comic French _trivialité_.
As it is not the name that makes the dish, I have only explained the
names of the different articles by way of distinction; I have also mixed
several headings in French and English, to instruct by degrees the
uninitiated in the art of making a correct bill of fare; I have also, in
every place where the heading is in French, endeavoured to place the
name of the comestible in the first line of the receipt. The reference
by numbers will be found unavoidably repeated in many instances,
especially those referring to stocks, sauces, pastes, or any of those
articles which are the foundations of any others, which will be easily
remembered after a few weeks’ practice without having recourse to the
index.
My readers will probably also feel interested in knowing that, although
for some time it has been my intention to write a work upon Gastronomy,
the laborious and difficult duties which I had to fulfil at the Reform
Club, added to the terrific effect which has produced upon me the 19th
edition of that monstrous volume mentioned in the preface, have often
been the cause of my giving up such an idea, and having destroyed my old
manuscripts, it is only within the last ten months that I in reality
commenced afresh this work, in which lapse of time I had to furnish
25,000 dinners for the gentlemen of the Reform Club, and 38 dinner
parties of importance, comprising above 70,000 dishes, and to provide
daily for 60 servants of the establishment, independent of about 15,000
visitors who have seen the kitchen department in that lapse of time.
Although I am entirely satisfied with the composition, distribution, and
arrangement of my book, should some few little mistakes be discovered
they will be the more excusable under those circumstances, as in many
instances I was unable to devote that tedious time required for
correction; and, although I have taken all possible care to prescribe,
by weight and measure, the exact quantity of ingredients used in the
following receipts for the seasoning and preparing of all kinds of
comestibles, I must observe that the ingredients are not all either of
the same size or quality; for instance, some eggs are much larger than
others, some pepper stronger, salt salter, and even some sugar sweeter.
In vegetables, again, there is a considerable difference in point of
size and quality; fruit is subject to the same variation, and, in fact,
all description of food is subject to a similar fluctuation. I am far,
however, from taking these disproportions for excuses, but feel
satisfied if the medium of the specified ingredients be used, and the
receipts in other respects closely followed, nothing can hinder
success.
SOYER’S NEW MODE OF CARVING.
&c. &c. &c.
You are all aware, honorable readers, of the continual tribulation in
carving at table, for appetites more or less colossal, and when all eyes
are fixed upon you with anxious avidity. Very few persons are perfect in
this useful art, which requires not only grace, but a great deal of
skill. Others become very nervous; many complain of the knife, which has
not the least objection to be found fault with; or else they say, this
capon, pheasant, or poularde is not young, and consequently not of the
best quality. You may sometimes be right, but it certainly often happens
that the greatest gourmet is the worst carver, and complains sadly
during that very long process, saying to himself, “I am last to be
served; my dinner will be cold.”
Reproaches of this kind are daily addressed to the culinary artiste, who
remembers perfectly well having burned his fingers whilst sending up
those important removes. To illustrate this just question I will relate
a curious and historic anecdote:--having one day served a _petit diner_,
_très recherché_, for five persons, in which was a poularde à
l’ambassadrice, a new and rather voluminous dish of mine, after the
first course a message was sent to me that the gentlemen had found
_that_ dish so good they regretted I had not sent two poulardes instead
of one; at first I took this message for a _pleasantry_, but a short
time after three parts of the poularde came down in a state that if
exposed over a laundry door would have served for a sign, without having
recourse to those popular words, “mangling done here;” the sight of a
dish so greatly disfigured made me collect a few of my little culinary
ideas. Nature, says I to myself, compels us to dine more or less once a
day; each of those days you are, honorable reader, subject to meet _en
tête-à-tête_ with a fowl, poularde, duck, pheasant, or other volatile
species; is it not bad enough to have sacrificed the lives of those
_animaux bienfaisans_ to satisfy our indefatigable appetites, without
pulling and tearing to atoms the remains of our benefactors? It is high
time for the credit of humanity and the comfort of quiet families, to
put an end to the massacre of those innocents.
Amongst other tribulations of carving I shall relate a most _boufonne_
anecdote. “If you should, unhappily, be forced to carve at table,” says
Launcelot Sturgeon, in his Essays, Moral, Philosophical, and Stomachic,
“neither labour at the joint until you put yourself into a heat, nor
make such a desperate effort to dissect it as may put your neighbours in
fear of their lives; however, if any accident should happen, make no
excuses, for they are only an acknowledgment of awkwardness. We
remember to have seen a man of high fashion deposit a turkey in this way
in the lap of a lady, but with admirable composure, and without offering
the slightest apology, he finished a story which he was telling at the
same time, and then, quietly turning to her, merely said, ‘Madam, I’ll
thank you for that turkey.’” My conscience will not allow me to swear to
the authenticity of the fact, but in the course of twelve months past I
have witnessed a very similar instance, only the party not possessing
the assurance of the fashionable above mentioned, did not continue the
conversation, but in his nervous anxiety, endeavouring to replace it on
the dish with vivacity, sent it rolling across the table to his
right-hand neighbour, who quickly perceiving the imminent danger in
which he was placed, fortunately arrested its further progress with his
fork. One hearty laugh of the remaining party terminated this scene of
confusion.
After a short consideration I found, by a most simple rule, and with the
greatest facility, that a bird that would take ten minutes to carve very
badly may be done well in two or three by the most inexperienced person.
From this process a number of advantages may be derived: first, you may
eat your dinner much hotter; secondly, you can make eight or ten pieces
of a fowl, or any other bird, where, previously, great difficulty was
experienced in making five or six; and each person will thereby be
enabled to choose a favorite piece; a large bird, such as turkey,
poularde, capon, &c., will be fit to reappear on your table in a very
inviting state. I must also observe that the birds are not in the least
disfigured, but, on the contrary, their appearance is much improved.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING.
By the simple process which I have effected for the jointing of game or
small poultry, with a long pointed pair of scissors, separating the
sinews which join the wings to the breast, making the incision as small
as possible, and also jointing the legs, by passing your finger between
the skin and the flesh, pressing the legs over the breast with the left
hand, the separation of the joints may be easily effected and having
thus detached the four principal parts, the carving, when roasted, will
be very simple. But for the jointing of large birds, as turkeys, geese,
capons, &c., procure an instrument I invented for that purpose from
Bramah’s, Piccadilly, with which a very intelligible printed direction
will be given for its use; after having jointed the bird, truss it with
a packing-needle and string, as usual, but not pressing them so tightly,
or they would become deformed, whilst, on the contrary, if merely
brought to their usual shape, they will look as plump as possible, and
the process they have previously undergone will be totally
imperceptible. In many instances where I have sent poultry to table thus
previously jointed, the parties carving have been quite surprised at
their unexpected progress in that difficult art. Formerly nothing was
more difficult to carve than wild fowl, the continual motion (when
alive) of the wings and legs making the sinews almost as tough as wires,
puzzling the best of carvers to separate them; my new method has quite
abolished such a domestic tribulation. A long and dry description for
the carving of each bird separately would be entirely useless, as every
one of my readers will have perceived that almost the whole difficulty
is defeated by this simple process; I shall therefore leave the subject,
making but the following observation, which is, that in everything I
dislike a straight line, and still more so in carving any kind of bird,
by doing which you not only spoil their appearance, but cut against the
grain, causing them to eat dry and, imperceptibly, obliging you to
assist some of the guests to very thick pieces, unless the breast is
very full and plump. I have here given a simple woodcut of a small
turkey, by which you will easily perceive, that by trussing and carving
in my new way, as represented, you will be enabled to carve for more
people, assisting each to better slices with a middling-sized fowl, or
any other bird, than with a larger one trussed and carved in the usual
method. Keep, if possible, the legs in the position indicated in the
design; any small birds, such as woodcocks, plovers, snipes, or teal,
are generally cut into two or four, being easily carved, but for
anything above their size the foregoing plan had better be acted upon.
[Illustration]
Respecting the carving of any description of joints, it may be more
simply explained. For a saddle of mutton or lamb, proceed precisely as
directed for the saddle-back (page 644), and for a round or nitchbone of
beef, proceed as scientifically explained (pages 641-3) by the carver of
this mighty dish.
For the ribs or sirloin of beef, pass the knife between the chinebone
and the flesh to about an inch in depth, but only to about the length
you think sufficient to cut as many slices from as you may require; then
having a sharp knife, cut off the outside slice very thinly (which, if
roasted according to my new plan, will be very good, especially where
parties have an objection to their meat the least underdone); hold your
knife a little in a slanting direction, and continue cutting thin slices
from the chine to the end, especially with the ribs, which are more
lean, but it is preferable to leave all the ends of the sirloin in the
dish as you carve, if not wanted, or after having carved two or three
plates you are forced to dig the lean out, which is not only often, but
generally done in a club-house where a scientific carver is not
employed; if a slice from a fillet of a sirloin is required, the servant
must take the joint to the sideboard, and turn it over with a couple of
forks; when again placed upon the table, the carver must carefully part
some of the fat which covers it, if too much, then cut short slices in a
slanting direction, as if from the breast of a fowl, instead of
crosswise, for then if clumsily carved and overdone it has a strong
resemblance to an old strap.
For a rump of beef, either roasted or stewed, always commence at the
fattest end, carving in a slanting direction, by which means you will
obtain a correct quantity of that delicate article, if even you should
be carving for twenty people, whilst by cutting straight across, some
would have the greater proportion fat and the remainder nothing but
lean. Any other piece of beef rolled and stewed, and fillets of beef, as
served for a remove, all require to be carved in a slanting direction.
For a fillet of veal, proceed in the same manner as directed for a round
of beef.
A loin of veal, if cut straight at the commencement, is entirely
spoiled, but when carved slantingly (if well done from the best end),
and eaten with its own gravy, nothing could be nicer, the remaining is
then also very good cold, even the kidney ought to be served the same;
and the breasts, either roasted or stewed, require the same style of
carving.
For legs of mutton or lamb I also proceed in a new way: the frill, which
is placed upon the knuckle-bone, is not only intended to ornament the
leg, but likewise to enable you to hold the bone with your left hand,
and carving with the right, which would wonderfully facilitate the
operation. Instead of cutting across the middle, which opens all parts
at once, thus losing a great deal of the succulence, I commence carving
at about two inches from the knuckle, beginning with the heel of the
knife, drawing it along to the point, cutting six or eight slices at
once, more or less if required, then pass the knife beneath the whole,
detaching them from the bone, thus helping each person quickly and with
very hot meat, the gravy remaining in the meat will keep it moistened in
good order for cold, whilst in the general manner you have nothing but
dry meat, or if underdone on purpose for cold, the meat will always have
a black appearance. This is my way of carving at home, but if
objectionable to take the frill with the fingers, make use of the
carving-fork; at home I never allow any gravy to be put into the dish,
but served separately in a boat, but if the meat is of good quality it
will supply (if well roasted) an abundance of good gravy. If for the
table of the wealthy, commence carving the leg nearer to the centre, but
always in a slanting direction.
For shoulders of mutton or lamb to eat well and delicate, the fat and
lean must be well mixed in serving, to accomplish which the joint must
be carved in a still more slanting direction than the legs, also
beginning rather near to the knuckle.
For necks and loins of mutton, never separate the bones of either with a
chopper, or you will partially mutilate the meat, thus losing all the
gravy in roasting, and frequently have great difficulty in carving, but
separate the joints with a small saw as neatly as possible, cutting in
the direction you require to carve.
For ribs of lamb, which should be properly prepared for carving before
being roasted, having the centre of the bones broken, with the
chine-bone detached; to carve, you must of course follow the bones,
which run rather slantingly, helping each person to a cutlet from the
neck, with a slice of the breast, but not cut too thick; by following
this plan, each person will have partaken of the breast, which, without
contradiction, is the most delicate part (but which is most frequently
left to be eaten when dry and cold), and if any remain, being evenly
carved, will be very presentable to table on the following day.
To carve a ham proceed very similar to the manner directed for the
carving of a leg of mutton, commencing two inches from the knuckle,
cutting very thin and delicate slices, slanting more and more as you
proceed, or you will have nothing but fat left at the extremity.
To carve an ox-tongue, stick your fork into the root, and cut a thin
slice off, placing the heel of the knife upon it, which draw along to
the point, thus taking the slice off in one cut, leaving it upon the
dish, and serving the inner slices cut in the same manner, but very thin
and delicate, you will thus have carved the best part of it easily
without disfiguring the whole, still having a decent piece remaining for
cold, but if you had commenced in the middle you would at once spoil the
appearance, and the remainder would eat dry when cold.
Nothing is more creditable to a carver than leaving a piece of either
meat, game, or poultry fit to reappear at table in an inviting state.
[Illustration: HOW TO CARVE A HAUNCH OF VENISON.]
The above engraving represents a haunch of venison, cooked as No. 540,
and ready for carving, the back-bone of the loin being first partly
taken out to facilitate the operation, as marked by letters and lines in
the drawing. The carving-knife must be sharp; put the point of it an
inch deep from letter A to B, and draw it in a slanting direction from
letter A to A, so on from B to B, but go a little deeper in, according
to the thickness of your haunch, and avoid making a hole through any
part of it, as a well must be reserved to give half a spoonful of gravy
to every plate, each of two thin slices. If you are to help more than
eight or ten persons from the haunch, then carve the loin at the same
time as the thickest part, from C C to D D, and give to each guest a
slice from each part, by which you will quickly perceive that you have
fairly cut the meat, and that each person will have had his proper
quantity of fat, and from first to last each slice will be very
inviting; serve on very hot plates of silver if possible. Every amateur
of venison knows, that without its due quantity of fat it is hardly
eatable; I would therefore advise those who still wish to carve haunches
on the old system, to calculate how many plates they have to carve for,
otherwise they are sure to be misled, if they do not take the trouble to
ascertain the number who are to be helped. My new system possesses an
advantage, which is, that if six or eight persons only partake of a
haunch, the remains of it are in a fine state, and fit to be cut into
large slices for another dinner, by merely putting a few spoonfuls of
gravy with the slices into a sautépan, over a sharp fire for three
minutes; turn them carefully, season with little salt, a teaspoonful of
currant jelly, turn the slices two or three times over until the jelly
is dissolved, serve on a very hot dish, but be careful not to let the
slices boil in the pan, or else they will become very tough. If any
remain, make a hash as No. 784, or pie, No. 785.
ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL WAY.
When I am called to carve a haunch of venison for eighteen or twenty I
proceed as follows: I take off the flat bone, previous to roasting, at
the back of the loin, and pass the knife from the knuckle all along the
lower part of the flap, which is left about two inches wide; I then
begin to cut in a slanting direction, as the drawing represents, from
the beginning of the loin, through the leg as far as the knuckle,
without reserving a well for gravy, and in fact I have found it to be
better, as every slice you cut through the leg produces its own gravy
boiling hot, which unavoidably gets cold in the well formed the other
way of carving. Do not omit to save some fat for the next day, as your
hash or pie would be insipid.
Haunch of mutton or lamb may be carved either way.
For necks of venison, pass your knife across the lower part of the ribs,
about four inches below the thickest part, then cut slices in a slanting
direction, not interfering with the bone, as I have previously
explained. For shoulders, see Shoulder of Mutton, page 645.
SADDLEBACK OF VENISON.
Having made a trial with Mr. Grove of Charing Cross of cutting a buck to
produce a saddleback of venison, as I have done of mutton (page 644), we
succeeded remarkably well, and obtained a most splendid joint that ever
could be placed before an epicure; but if cannot be generally adopted,
except in the country, where gentlemen keep their own park of deer, as
we found it interfered with both legs, which look like legs of mutton,
and deprived them of the best part of the fat, which cannot be dispensed
with: in other respects they are excellent for pies.
I have also introduced a _saucière_, made like a coffee-pot, heated by a
spirit-lamp underneath, filled with good veal or beef gravy, to be taken
round to each guest; the great heat of the gravy poured over the slices
of venison, mixed with the gravy already helped from the haunch, makes a
fine thick mixture, by which this delightful and noble joint is really
enjoyed; the currant jelly always served ought not to be too sweet or
too firm.
French beans, usually served with venison, ought to be very young and
green, well dried, and very hot when sent to table; in case they could
not be obtained, send up cauliflower or young brocoli with it; however I
must here observe, that these vegetables are very unpalatable, as
nothing disagrees more with currant jelly than French beans and brocoli.
I have substituted tomatas _farci_, as described No. 1099, when in
season, and served on a silver dish: they were much approved of. Plain
broiled tomatas must be cut across, with the juice extracted without
breaking; then put on the gridiron, with salt and pepper, on a very
sharp fire, turn them, when done dish up, add a little butter over each,
and send very hot.
CARVING OF POULTRY.
A fowl which has been prepared with the Tendon Separator before
roasting, can produce afterwards ten very inviting pieces, suitable to
the fancy of as many guests.
In the first place you take a carving fork, which you stick in the
breast, between figs. 5 and 6, then you give a cut at the fillet,
beginning at 1 down to 2, where you make the point of the knife cut
through the joint of the wing, which by twisting a little will easily
come asunder. The same operation is done from 3 to 4; and without
removing the fork, you slide the knife under the leg at 7, and the same
at 8, and both legs will immediately separate. The next cut is to be
given at 5 to 6, and afterwards the back is divided in the same
direction as the last numbers--as each leg is divided at the joint
commonly called drumstick, it completes the ten parts.
A DUCK. The best part of a duck is the breast, which should be cut in
fillets obliquely, then the wings and the legs, the same as the fowl,
and the body in two.
A PHEASANT. The best parts are the breast and legs, which are carved the
same as a fowl.
A PARTRIDGE. The wings and the body are the best parts.
* * * * *
A roast Hare must be cut along the spine, from the neck downwards to
obtain the fillets, which ought then to be divided in parts, in the same
oblique direction as the ribs. The legs and shoulders are seldom carved,
but they are, with the body, excellent in a hash or stewed.
[Illustration: SOYER’S TENDON SEPARATOR.]
The woodcut at p. xxiii represents one of the most serviceable of
instruments. Its object is to relieve carvers, more or less proficient,
and must become indispensable for the use of all cooks and poulterers in
disjointing the volatile species previous to trussing, roasting, or
boiling.
To a clever carver, sitting at a homely table or public banquet, it
matters little whether all eyes are fixed upon him or a fidgety footman
is at his elbow. He quietly distributes the several dainties according
to the fancy of the guests, and everything goes on in comfort. But to a
person inexperienced, the notion of being placed at either end of the
table, to stay the ravenous appetite of some of the guests, causes such
a nervous excitement, that it is not an uncommon thing to see the
splashing of sauce and gravy on those around--perchance the sudden
appearance of an unfortunate limb flying with terrific velocity on a
lady’s dress, the whole of the company being thus thrown into
confusion--the poor carver’s apologies received with black looks, and
the harmony of the party placed in jeopardy.
It is with a view to extricate society from such an awkward position
that the inventor offers to the public the Tendon Separator, as a medium
by which any gentleman may boldly take the carving-knife in hand, and be
delighted to comply with the invitation of the Amphytrion: instead of
inspiring fear, he will be admired for his ability in gracefully
dividing a favorite piece of game or poultry.
The simplicity of the operation will easily convince any one that the
Tendon Separator possesses all that is required to remove awkwardness in
carving; the only necessity being to divide the tendons in the joints,
the toughness of which is the difficulty to be overcome, and often
abandoned to make a desperate cut at the bones; hence arise the
accidents above mentioned.
The following instructions will enable all cooks and poulterers to
prepare game and poultry for the table, perfectly free from opposition
to any carver’s knife.
THE TENDON SEPARATOR
Is represented shut when done with, by merely slipping the brass ring to
keep the spring in its place, and open when in the act of being used;
the straight part of the handle, with the ring, resting in the palm of
the hand between the thumb and the fore-finger. When about separating
the tendons and otherwise dividing other parts of your fowl or bird, you
begin by turning the skin over the wings and cutting the tendons (No. 1,
p. xxiv) in each of the joints; and then by taking hold of that part
commonly called the drumstick with your right hand and the skin being
already turned, you can easily get at the joint (No. 2) by making it
come out, to cut the tendons of each leg; on turning the Separator with
the points upwards, you give a cut at the breast-bone (No. 4); and, by
holding the instrument with both hands, immediately after turning the
points downwards, you also give a cut at the back-bone (No. 5), and
then, the four tendons being cut, the limbs are brought back to their
former position. Then you introduce the instrument into the body at the
other end of the bird, and with your left hand you take hold of the
thigh-bone, which you also divide at No. 3, and again turning the points
downwards, you give another cut at the back-bone No. 5; with little
practice the cuts at the breast and back-bone, are made without
interfering in the least with the skin; then you truss the bird in the
common way, but a packing-needle and thread are to be preferred, as
explained at page xv. When roasted, the appearance of the poultry is
vastly improved by this simple operation, it looks more plump on account
of the sinews having lost their power of contraction whilst roasting;
therefore, when the bird
[Illustration]
comes to table, the carver has merely to pass the knife in the usual
manner to take up the wings and legs, and finds no resistance; the same
at the breast and the back, where it may easily be seen whilst carving
that it has already been prepared.
Three minutes is about the time taken by this new process to cut into
ten parts an ordinary fowl.
For a Turkey or a Goose, the sinews are divided as above, and in the act
of carving, instead of cutting the fillets in a straight line with the
breast-bone, you separate them obliquely, and all other parts as usual.
Pheasants, Ducks, and all Wild Fowl especially, must be prepared in a
similar manner.
A Hare or Rabbit may also have the sinews and back-bone divided; to
effect this you lay the hare upon its back, and give six cuts nearly
through the back-bone, holding the Separator with both hands, through
the belly part; then you truss it for roasting. If it should happen to
be a very large hare, the fillets only are carved, and they ought to be
cut in thin slices in an oblique direction, instead of straight along
the back.
[Illustration: _The half of a Fowl with the flesh on._
_The half of a Fowl dissected._]
DIRECTIONS FOR LARDING.
My motive for introducing the directions for larding at the commencement
of this work, is to give it the importance which it deserves, it having
in all former works been generally omitted, or lost amongst a multitude
of receipts, which has made me desirous of placing it in a conspicuous
place, in the hope that many families in the middle classes of society
may be able to partake of that very inexpensive luxury.
Nothing but experience and practice would enable a person to lard well,
I have, therefore, given the few following directions, so that a person
might improve himself after once commencing. I have been induced to do
so from the fact of having had many female cooks with me for
improvement, many of whom could send up very good dinners, but few of
them have scarcely known, or had any idea of larding, being in the habit
of having it done by their poulterer whilst in London, and in the
country avoiding it entirely: I shall, therefore, endeavour to explain,
first, the choice of the bacon; secondly, the manner of cutting it; and
lastly, the best mode of larding.
Choose the firmest bacon you can obtain, quite fat, and not at all red,
or it would break and cause a deal of trouble. To cut it, take off the
piece of lean at the bottom, lay it upon a board with the rind upwards,
and beat gently with a cutlet-bat, trim the sides, and cut it into bands
the breadth that you may require your lardons in length; if for a fillet
of beef, two inches; for fricandeau, turkey, poularde, fowl, pheasant,
or sweetbread, an inch and a half; and for lamb’s sweatbreads much
smaller. Take one of the bands, place it before you with the rind
downwards, and with a sharp knife cut it in slices, (but not separating
it from the rind), of the thickness you require for the article you are
about to lard, then place your hand at the top, press lightly, and draw
your knife straight along as if cutting the bacon in slices, so as to
form the lardons square at each end, commencing cutting from the heel of
the knife, and finishing at the point.
To lard, the French method is so familiar to me that I cannot but
recommend it, especially to inexperienced hands. If a fricandeau, lay it
lengthwise upon a clean napkin across your hand, forming a kind of
bridge with your thumb at the part you are about to commence at, having
previously taken all the skin from the veal with a knife, then with the
point of your larding-needle make three distinct lines across, half an
inch apart, run your needle into the third line (at the further side of
the fricandeau), and bring it out at the first, placing one of the
lardons in it, draw the needle through, leaving out a quarter of an inch
of the end of the bacon at each line: proceed thus to the end of the
row; then make another line half an inch distant, stick in another row
of lardons, bringing them out at the second line, leaving the ends of
the bacon out all of the same length; make the next row again at the
same distance, bringing the ends out between the lardons of the first
row, proceeding in like manner until you have larded the whole surface
in chequered rows: proceed in a similar way with everything you lard,
the difference being only in the size of the lardons, and in the case of
poultry or game, previously scald the breasts. By following closely the
above simple directions any cook may be able, if not to lard well, at
any rate to lard well enough for every-day use, which would give
practice, and likewise competence, to lard articles required upon more
particular occasions.
MEAT AND POULTRY.
A FEW THINGS I OBJECT TO, THAT IS, NOT TO USE IN COOKERY COMESTIBLES
WHEN OUT OF, OR BEFORE, THEIR PROPER SEASON.
FOR Butcher’s Meat, see page 637, Kitchen at Home.
IN POULTRY. I never use turkeys before Michaelmas, and not after the
latter end of March.
Ditto turkey poults before the end of June, and not after September.
Capons, poulardes, pullets, and fowls, I use all the year round. I begin
about March with the spring chickens, till the beginning of July.
Geese are in season almost all the year round.
Goslings, or green geese, commence early in the spring, and are called
so till the end of September, thus there is hardly any difference
between them and the Michaelmas geese.
Ducks and ducklings the same.
Rabbits and pigeons may be used all the year round; but it is only in
the early part of the spring that I use tame rabbits.
Guinea-fowls are used when pheasants go out, which is about the latter
end of January, and are used till the end of May. Their eggs are very
good, more delicate than the common ones.
I never use grouse before the 14th Aug., nor after the 22d December.
Black cocks and gray hens about the same time as grouse, but they are
more uncertain.
Ptarmigans are sent from Norway about the middle of January, and
continue till March, but that depends upon the weather.
Though the shooting season for partridges is the first of September, and
lasts till the end of January, I never cook one before the 3d, except
being desired to do so, but I often keep some for three weeks after the
shooting season is over.
The same with pheasants, which begins from the 1st of October till the
end of January. By hanging them by the necks and putting a piece of
garlic in the beak and a little cayenne, I one cold winter kept one six
weeks after the shooting time had expired, which I afterwards presented
to a party of real gourmets, who said it was the best they had partaken
of during the season.
I always use wild ducks, widgeons, teal, pintails, larks, golden
plovers, snipes, woodcocks from the commencement of November till the
end of March, after which the flesh becomes rank and unfit for table.
Young pea-fowls are very good, and make a noble roast, see p. 401, and
are in season from January till June, but they are very uncertain.
Plovers’ eggs, my favorite, an unparalleled delicacy, come about the
middle of March, and are not considered good after the latter end of
May; but when I can get them fresh in June, I do not discontinue their
use, because they are, in my estimation, worthy of the patronage of the
greatest gourmet. I have paid for them, at the beginning of the season,
three shillings and sixpence each; they are the black plover or peweet’s
eggs.
FISH.
For the last few years there has been quite an alteration in the seasons
for these golden and silvery inhabitants of the deep.
Except the Cod-fish, which come in September, and by strictness of rule
must disappear in March, the season for all other sea-fish becomes a
puzzle; but the method I follow during the season is as follows:
Crimped Gloucester is plentiful in June and part of July, but it may be
procured almost all the year round.
Common Salmon from March to July.
Salmon Peale from June to July.
Spey Trout from May to July.
Sturgeon, though not thought much of, is very good in June.
Turbot are in season all the year round.
John Dories depend entirely upon chance, but may be procured all the
year round for the epicure, May excepted.
The original season of Yarmouth Mackerel is from the 12th of May till
the end of July; now we have Christmas mackerel; then the west of
England mackerel, which are good at the beginning of April.
Haddock and Whiting all the year round.
Skate all the winter.
Smelts from the Medway are the best, and are winter fish, the Yarmouth
and Carlisle are good, but rather large; the Dutch are also very large,
which often lose in the estimation of the epicure.
Brill is like turbot as to season.
Slips are similar to soles, good all the year round.
Gurnets are rather a spring fish.
Flounders and Diamond Plaice, are in full season from June to July.
Red Mullets vary very much now, but the beginning of the season was
formerly the 12th of May; we had none this year except at a very
extravagant price. I always use them when they are to be obtained.
Fresh Herrings are in season from November to January.
River Eels all the year round.
Lobsters in the spring and part of the summer. Prawns ditto.
Crabs are best in May.
Oysters begin in August, but are not very good till September.
Barrelled Oysters begin on the 15th of September, and last till the end
of February.
Barrelled Cod, Lent fish, are best in winter or about March.
Sprats come in about the 8th of November.
Crawfish is a very favorite dish of the greatest epicures of France, and
also of a few of the English; the author regrets that in fulfilment of
an agreement between himself and M. Sampayo he is restricted from giving
the receipt of Crawfish à la Sampayo, which has appeared in his Bill of
Fare, No. 609. The reason of the enormous expense of this dish is that
two large bottles of truffes du Périgord, which do not cost less than
four guineas, are stewed with them in champagne.
VEGETABLES AND FRUIT.
The seasons for these delicacies are the principal guide for the
epicure; but though either can be obtained by artificial means at a
great expense, they do not repay in flavour their exorbitant price.
HOW EVERYTHING SHOULD BE IN COOKING.
All clear soup must not be too strong of meat, and must be of a light
brown, sherry, or straw colour.
All white or brown thick soups must be rather thinnish, lightly adhering
to the back of the spoon.
All purées must adhere little more to the back of the spoon.
Any Italian paste must be very clear, rather strong, and the colour of
pale sherry.
All kinds of fish sauce should be thicker for boiled fish than for
broiled or fried.
Brown sauce should be a little thinnish and the colour of a
horse-chesnut.
White sauce should be of the colour of ivory, and thicker than brown
sauce.
Cream, or Dutch sauce, must be rather thick, and cannot be too white.
Demi-glace requires to be rather thin, but yet sufficiently reduced to
envelope any pieces of meat, game, poultry, &c., with which it is
served.
Every description of fish should be well done, but not over-boiled,
broiled, stewed, or fried.
Beef and mutton must be underdone even for joints, removes, and entrees.
Lamb requires to be more done.
Veal and pork must be well done.
Venison must be underdone, red in the middle, and full of gravy, but not
raw.
Poultry, either broiled, stewed, boiled, or roasted, must be done
thoroughly, not cutting in the least red, but must be still full of
gravy.
Pheasants and partridges must be well done through, yet full of gravy.
Grouse, black cocks, gray hens, and ptarmigans, must cut reddish, with
plenty of gravy, but not too much underdone.
All kinds of water-fowl must be very much underdone, so that the blood
and gravy follow the knife in carving.
Plovers must be rather underdone, but done through.
Rabbits and pigeons must be well done.
Second-course savoury dishes must be rather highly seasoned, but with a
little moderation.
Pastry should, when baked, be clear, light, and transparent, and of a
beautiful straw colour; the body of a croustade the same.
Large pies, timbales, and casseroles of rice must be of a yellowish
brown colour.
Jellies require to be rather white and transparent for fruits, and not
too firm, but better so than too delicate.
Orange jellies should be of a deep orange colour, and all fruit jellies
as near as possible to the colour of the fruit.
Creams should be very light and delicate, but fruit creams must be kept
of the colour of the fruits they are made of.
For all the demi-glacé removes the ice must be firm, but not the least
hard.
All kinds of soufflé or fondu must be well done through, or they would
be very indigestible, clog the delicate palate, and prevent the
degustation of the generous claret which flows so freely after dinner on
the table of the real epicure.
I recommend sugar in almost all savoury dishes, as it greatly
facilitates digestion and invigorates the palate, but always increase or
diminish the quantity according to the taste of your employer.
I often introduce onions, eschalots, or even a little garlic in some of
my most delicate dishes, but so well blended with other flavours that I
never have a single objection even by those who have a great dislike to
it.
Horseradish and herbs of every description may always be used with
discretion to great advantage.
Contrary to the expressed opinion of every other previous publication, I
say that too much seasoning is preferable to too little, as your
employer can correct you by saying there is too much of this or that,
and you can soon get it to his taste; but while you fear over-seasoning
you produce no flavour at all; by allowing each guest to season for
himself, your sauce attains a diversity of flavours. The cook must
season for the guest, not the guest for the cook.
I have always found great advantage in dressing the greatest part of my
entrées on a thin roll of mashed potatoes;[2] this has never been found
objectionable, as it is so thin that it is imperceptible when covered
with the sauces, and serves to prevent any entrées dressed in crown from
being upset, before going on table, by the carelessness of the servant;
for large removes, as turkey à la Nelson (No. 510), &c., after forming
the ship (see engraving), egg, bread-crumb, and set in a moderate oven
to brown, fix in your croustade, and dish up; the potatoes may be eaten,
but not the croustade, which is merely an embellishment. Borders may
also be made of forcemeat, as for ris de veau (No. 673), but gives much
more trouble without being better; also of rice, by preparing it as for
casserole au riz (p. 260); it may be used as mashed potatoes. Make but
few preserves, only those that are indispensable; you will have a
continual enjoyment of earlier stock, as Nature closely watches our
wants and liberally supplies our wishes. The real gourmet, though
anxious to produce novelty, never attempts to over-force the produce of
the various seasons.
BRAISED ROAST TURKEY, CAPON, OR FOWL.
Peel and wash two onions, one carrot, one turnip, cut them in thin
slices, also a little celery, a bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, lay
three sheets of paper on the table, spread your vegetables, and pour
over them two or three tablespoonfuls of oil; have your turkey, or
poularde, trussed the same as for boiling; cover the breast with thin
slices of bacon, and lay the back of the bird on the vegetables; cut a
few slices of lemon, which you lay on the breast to keep it white, tie
the paper round with string, then pass the spit and set it before the
fire; pour plenty of fat over to moisten the paper and prevent from
burning, roast three hours at a pretty good distance from the fire:
capons will take two hours, poulardes one hour and a half, fowls one
hour, and chickens half an hour.
AMATEUR RECEIPTS.
_Ris de Veau aux Pistaches à la Dr. Roots._
Take three fine sweetbreads, clean them well with milk and water, in
order to make them as white as possible; do them gradually in a stewpan
with good white gravy, some onion, carrot, and celery, with a little
mace; then stuff them well with pistachio nuts nicely bruised; put them
“en papillote” (that is, to oil or butter a piece of paper, which you
fasten round by twisting it along the edge) and give them a nice
wholesome colour; they will require from twenty to twenty-five minutes
to bring them to a proper state of excellence, with the good, fine,
wholesome colour they may be served up, with white endive, or celery
sauce aux pistaches, after the above manner.
_Potage froid, ou Salade à la Dr. Roots._
Make some very good and highly-flavoured calf’s-head soup, with a good
abundance of egg and forcemeat balls, and some sausage-meat introduced
therein; the pieces of calf’s-head should not be cut larger than an inch
square. When this soup is properly prepared and ripe, pour it into
several milkpans, to the depth of about two inches; let it stand in this
way to cool and stiffen, for the next day’s use.
Dress a nice light salad of mustard and cress, with endive and a slight
sprinkle of well-cut celery; take this salad from the bowl (in which it
has been dressed), lightly with a fork, and form in a pyramid in the
centre of a dish, around which place tastefully-ornamented slices of the
cold and substantial soup, cut into slices about the size and thickness
of calf’s liver that is usually served up with bacon. Garnish with
slices of hard-boiled eggs and lemon. This, if properly managed, forms
not only a pretty-looking spring dish, but a most excellent one.
_Roast Swan à la Norwich._
Take three pounds of beef, beat fine in a mortar,
Put it into the Swan--that is, when you’ve caught her;
Some pepper, salt, mace, some nutmeg, an onion,
Will heighten the flavour in Gourmand’s opinion;
Then tie it up tight with a small piece of tape,
That the gravy and other things may not escape.
A meal-paste (rather stiff) should be laid on the breast,
And some whited-brown paper should cover the rest.
Fifteen minutes at least ere the Swan you take down,
Pull the paste off the bird, that the breast may get brown.
THE GRAVY.
To a gravy of beef (good and strong) I opine
You’ll be right if you add half a pint of port wine:
Pour this through the Swan--yes, quite through the belly:
Then serve the whole up with some hot currant jelly.
N. B.--The Swan must _not_ be skinned.
ANOTHER RECEIPT.
Take two pounds of rump steak, chop it fine, season well with spice, a
piece of onion, or eschalot, and butter. Rub the breast both inside and
outside with beaten cloves, then stuff with the above, taking care to
sew the bird up carefully, and to tie it very tightly on the spit, so
that the gravy may not escape. Inclose the breast of the swan in a
meal-paste, after which cover the whole bird with paper well greased
with beef dripping. About a quarter of an hour before the bird is taken
up, remove the paper and the paste, baste well with butter and flour
till brown and _frothy_. A swan of fifteen pounds weight requires about
two hours roasting with a fire not too fierce.
THE GRAVY.
Take the giblets and a piece of beef, with a pint of port wine, and make
a good gravy. Pour some of this through the body of the swan when
dished. Some red currant jelly and port wine should be made hot and
served up likewise.
N. B.--The swan is _not_ to be skinned.
_Cock a Leekie à la Wemyss._
To some good stock made the previous night from an old fowl, or of veal,
add three pounds of the white part of the leeks, and let the whole boil
slowly for three hours, then add a skinned fowl (old or young), cut into
neat pieces, and three dozen of good prunes. Let all simmer together for
one hour longer. Season with salt and white pepper, and you will have
good cock a leekie.
N. B.--In frost the leeks require less boiling.
BOUQUET DE GIBIER, OR SPORTING NOSEGAY.
CADEAU FOR CHRISTMAS.
This very seasonable novelty originated with M. Soyer, “the Gastronomic
Regenerator,” of the Reform Club; and, like everything which emanates
from his inventive brain, is distinguished by its taste and utility.
This is, indeed, a picturesque mode of keeping game, so as to make them
ornamental until they become useful--at table. The lovers of “still
life” pictures cannot but admire this “_Bouquet_;” and it is not
unworthy of our painters’ attention. The several articles of game, &c.,
are secured between branches of laurel and other evergreens, set off
with dried and coloured flowers, “everlastings,” &c. The handsome
specimen we have engraved bears the following, arranged in the order
here denoted:
TWO GOLDEN PLOVERS.
LEVERET.
WILD DUCK. PHEASANT.
WILD RABBIT.
GROUSE. WIDGEON.
FRENCH PARTRIDGE. ENGLISH PARTRIDGE.
WOODCOCK. TEAL.
TWO SNIPES.
TWO LARKS.
The brilliancy of the plovers and of the pheasant, and the brightness of
the wild-duck, backed by the sombre green, and the whole variegated and
relieved by multicoloured flowers, is really very effective.
Not many days since, M. Soyer presented one of his “Bouquets de Gibier”
to Viscount Melbourne, at Brocket Hall; when his lordship admired the
novelty exceedingly, as did also the noble party on a visit at Brocket.
Another “Bouquet” has been presented by M. Soyer to a lady of high
fashion and beauty, if we may judge from the triplet which accompanied
the offering:
MADAM,
Flora having forsaken her flowers,
I quickly embraced the sport of swift Diana,
To dedicate and present this bouquet to Venus.
Count d’Orsay, the _arbiter elegantiarum_ of our day, on the “Bouquet”
being submitted to him, admired the artistical design, and suggested
that Landseer would appreciate its novelty, adding, “What a beautiful
trophy it would make for a sideboard or a dining-room!”
The “Bouquet,” we augur, will be popular in the approaching Christmas
season; and though there is a musty old proverb about “looking at a
gift-horse,” the above novelty will surely throw the old-fashioned
baskets into the shade, by presenting much that is agreeable to the eye,
with the proximate association of another sense of enjoyment.
[Illustration: BOUQUET DE GIBIER.]
OLIVE-BRANCH BETWEEN FRANCE AND ENGLAND.
A present extraordinary to the King and Queen of the French was
forwarded from London to Paris on the 21st of December by the well-known
Gastronomic Regenerator, M. Soyer, of the Reform Club, and was presented
to their Majesties on the 24th, in the morning, at the Palace of the
Tuileries. Their Majesties were so delighted with the novelty and
elegance of the composition, that after a long examination the King
ordered it to be carried to the apartments of her Majesty the Queen of
the Belgians, who was exceedingly pleased with it, and afterwards the
whole of the royal family was summoned to see this bouquet; the sight
was so new and unexpected that it met with their unanimous approbation.
His Majesty then observed that such a welcome and graceful present from
a foreign country had never before penetrated through France to the
palace of its kings. Immediately after, by the orders of his Majesty,
the sporting nosegay was carried by two gentlemen porters to the council
of ministers then sitting at the Tuileries, and was admired by every
one. It is reported that his Majesty intends to have a similar bouquet
carved in wood for ornamenting the grand sideboard of the magnificent
banqueting hall of the palace. To give an idea of the composition of
this splendid innovation, the following description perhaps will be
interesting to the public. The length of it was about ten feet, and wide
in proportion. The frame was richly covered with Christmas holly,
laurels, mistletoe, and evergreen, with a great variety of winter
flowers. There were twenty-two heads of game, consisting of larks,
snipes, woodcocks, black peweets, teal, French and English partridges,
grouse, widgeons, wild ducks, black cocks, pheasants, a leveret, a hare,
and golden plovers; the interstices were lightly filled with wheat and
oats, the whole ornamented with tri-coloured ribands and small flags at
the top--and to give a still more pleasing effect, fancy birds of
beautiful plumage, so abundant in England, were spread in every part of
this magnificent nosegay.
The following letter from his Majesty the King of the French,
accompanied with a beautiful pin forming a bouquet of diamonds and
pearls, was sent by his Majesty’s orders to the French Ambassador, and
forwarded to Monsieur Soyer at the Reform Club.
_Cabinet du Roi, Château des Tuileries_; 1847.
MONSIEUR,
Le Roi a reçu votre ouvrage sur l’art culinaire, et le groupe de
gibier dont vous lui avez fait hommage.
Je suis chargé, Monsieur, de vous transmettre les remercimens de sa
Majesté pour cette double attention, et d’y joindre comme
témoignage de sa satisfaction, le bijou que je m’empresse de vous
remettre.
Recevez je vous prie, Monsieur, mes plus parfaites salutations.
Le Secrétaire du Cabinet,
CAMILLE FAIN.
Monsieur Alexis Soyer.
NUMBER OF STEWPANS AND OTHER KITCHEN UTENSILS
REQUIRED IN THE KITCHENS OF WHICH I HAVE GIVEN PLANS, COMMENCING WITH
THE COMPLETE BATTERIE DE CUISINE OF THE REFORM CLUB.
---------------------------------------------------+---------+---------+----------+------------+-----------
| Reform | Kitchen | Kitchen | Kitchen |
Utensils. | Club | of the | at | of the | Cottage
| Kitchen.| Wealthy.| Home. | Bachelor. | Kitchen.
---------------------------------------------------+---------+---------+----------+------------+-----------
Stewpans, the sizes fluctuating from six gallons | 89 | 36 | 12 |6, 1 holding| 4
to half a pint | | | | a gall. |
Stock-pots, varying from twelve gallons to two | 8 | 4 | 1 | | 6 black
Turbot kettles, one full size, and another two | | | | | saucepans
sizes smaller | 2 | 2 | 1 small | |
Long Fish-kettles, two large and two middling-sized| | | 1 rather| 1 rather |
ones | 4 | 2 | larger | wide. | 1
Braising-pans, two large and two middling-sized | 4 | 2 | 1 | .. |
Preserving-pans (copper), one large round bottomed | | | | |
and one large flat bottomed | 2 | 2 | 1 | .. | 1 flat
Egg bowls, one large and one middling-sized | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | bottomed
Baba and sponge-cake moulds | 2 | 3 | 1 | |
Large round copper pie-dishes for servants | 4 | 2 | | |
Thick flat braising-pans with hermetic covers | 6 | 6 | 2 | 1 |
Sautépans, twenty deep, with thick bottoms, | | | | |
and ten others | 30 | 12 | 6 | 2 | 2
Bain-marie-pans, varying from two gallons to | | | | |
a pint | 36 | 18 | 6 | 2 |
Pie-moulds for raised pies | 6 | 4 | 2 | 1 |
Jelly and charlotte moulds | 24 | 12 | 4 | 1 |
Small bordure for aspic jellies | 6 | 4 | 1 | 2 |
Freezing-pots, with accessories | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Baking-sheets of various sizes | 12 | 12 | 2 | 2 |
Gridirons | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Salamanders | 2 | 1 | 1 small | 1 do. | 1
Spoon drainers | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Spits of various sizes, including two with | | | | |
cradles | 12 | 6 | 2 | 2 |
Dripping-pans | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Steam copper cases for puddings and potatoes | 4 | 2 | | |
Round copper fruit bowls with handles | 4 | 1 | 1 | |
Sugar-pans | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Soup ladles (small and cheap utensils) | 18 | 12 | 4 | 2 | 1
Copper kitchen spoons, six of which are colander | | | | |
spoons | 36 | 18 | 8 | 6 | 2
Wire baskets for frying | 6 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1
Wire sieves | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Hair sieves | 8 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1
Omelette-pans | 6 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1
Small Jelly and driole moulds | 36 | 18 | 12 | 12 |
Tartelette-pans | 36 | 12 | 12 | 3 |
Tammies | 6 | 4 | 2 | 2 |
Jelly bags | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 |
Wooden spoons | 24 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4
Paste brushes | 10 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 1
Scissors | 2prs.| 1 | 1 | 1 | 1
Kitchen knives | 12 | 6 | 2 | 2 | 1
Boxes of cutters for vegetables and pastry | 4 | 4 | 2 | 2 |
Trivets, four common, and two for gas stoves | 6 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
Meat saws, four large and two small | 6 | 3 |2, 1 small| 2 | 2
Cutlet bats | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1
Meat choppers, large | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Steak-tongs, two large and two small pairs | 4prs.| 2 | 1 large | 1 | 1
Meat-hooks | 24 | 12 | 6 | 6 | 4
Rolling-pins | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1
Kitchen basins | 36 | 24 | 12 | 8 | 6
Small pie-dishes for fruit and meat | 24 | 12 | 6 | 4 | 6
Kitchen table-cloths | 24 | 12 | 8 | 4 | 2
Rubbers | 8 | 8 | 4 | 4 | 2
Fish napkins | 24 | 12 | 6 | 2 | 2
Pudding-cloths | 18 | 12 | 4 | 2 | 2
Round towels | 12 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 2
TABLE OF CONTENTS,
OR ABBREVIATED SUMMARY, REFERRING (FROM PAGE TO PAGE) TO THE VARIOUS
SERIES OF DISHES, ETC.
(_For General Contents see the end of the Volume._)
SAUCES.
PAGE
Foundation sauces, 1--9
Thin sauces, 9--14
Sauces, 14--33
Sauces, with Garnitures of Vegetables, or garnishing, 34--48
APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES.
Composed of forcemeat of veal, rabbits, fowl,
game, whitings, cod-liver, panada, veal-stuffing,
boiled rice, branched macaroni, croquettes of potatoes, glaze, 48--52
Potages, or soups, 53--88
FISH--POISSON.
Method of cleaning salt-water fish, 90, 92
Method of cleaning fresh-waterfish, 93--94
FISH DRESSED.
Turbot, 95--101
Brill, 101--104
John Dory, 104--107
Salmon, or saumon, 107--111
Cod-fish, or cabillaud, 119--122
Red mullets, 122--124
Whitings, or merlans, 125--126
Mackerel, or maquereaux, 126--128
Gurnets, 130--132
Haddocks, or merluches, 128--130
Herrings, or harengs, 31
Skate, or raie, 133
Smelts, or éperlans, 134
Flounders, or carrelets, 135
Plaice, or plie, 135
White-bait, 136
Sturgeons, or esturgeons, 136
Shell-fish, 137--139
FRESH-WATER FISH.
Pike, or brochets, 139--143
Carp, 143--144
Tench, or tanche, 144--145
Perch, 146
Trout, or truite, 147--148
Eels, or anguilles, 148--149
Lampreys, 149
Crawfish, or écrevisses, 149
HORS-D’ŒUVRES,
OR DISHES TO BE HANDED ROUND THE TABLE. Composed of--
Petits vol-au-vents and petites bouchées, made of beef-marrow, mackerel,
skate, liver, oysters, lobsters, fowls, and game, 151--155
Petits pâtés of oysters, lobsters, and shrimps, 156
Rissoles of oysters, lobsters, shrimps, mackerel, game, and fowls, 156--159
Croustades of butter, 160
Aiguillettes of sweetbread, 161
Escalops of oysters, lobsters, fillets of soles, and fowls, 161--163
REMOVES. FIRST COURSE.
Beef, or bœuf, 164--176
Ox tongue, or langue de bœuf, 177
Veal, or veau, 177--184
Calf’s head, or tête de veau, 184--188
Mutton, or mouton, 189--196
Lamb, or agneau, 196--201
Pork, 202--204
Turkey, or dinde, 205--206
Capon, or poularde, 203--220
Fowls, or poulets, 215--220
Goose, or oie, 220--221
Ducklings, or cannetons, 221
Venison, or venaison, 221--226
Grouse, 228
Black cocks, 229
Hare, or lièvre, 229
FLANCS. Composed of--
Fillets of beef, tongue, and Wesphalia hams, 230--233
Loin, knuckle, neck of veal, and calf’s head, 234--237
Neck and loin of mutton, 238--240
Saddle, shoulder, and neck of lamb, 240--243
Chicken and duckling, 244--248
Pheasant, grouse, and partridge, 249--253
Leverets and rabbits, 254--256
Pâté chaud, or hot pie, 256--260
Vol-au-vents and casserole of rice, do. rabbits,
lamb’s and calf’s tail, lamb’s and sheep’s trotters, 260--264
ENTREES, or MADE DISHES.
Beef, or bœuf, 266--278
Veal, or veau, 279--294
Mutton, or mouton, 294--307
Lamb, or agneau, 308--321
Pork, or porc-frais, 322--325
Venison, or venaison, 325--329
ENTREES OF POULTRY.
Turkey, or dinde, 329--331
Poulet, or poularde, 332--340
Fowls, or volaille, 340--347
Spring chickens, or poulets, 348--351
QUENELLES, OR FORCEMEAT. Composed of--
Quenelles of fowls, 352--354
Boudins, croquettes, and rissolettes, 355--357
Fillets of ducklings, 358--359
ENTREES OF GAME.
Hare, or lièvre, 360--362
Rabbits, or lapins, 363--366
Pheasant, or faisan, 367--370
Grouse, 371--373
Partridges, or perdreaux, 374--377
Wild ducks, or canards sauvages, 378--379
Teal, or cercelles, 380--381
Woodcocks, or bécasses, 382--385
Plovers, or pluviers, 386--387
Quails, or cailles, 388--389
Pigeons, 389--390
Larks, or mauviettes, 391--392
ROASTS FOR SECOND COURSE.
Turkey, or dinde, 393--397
Capon, pullet, and chicken, 398--399
Goose, or oie, 400
Duckling, or canneton, 400
Woodcocks, or bécasses, 401
Guinea-fowl, or poule d’Inde, 401
Pea-fowl, or paon, 401
Pigeons, 402
Quails, or cailles, 402
Pheasants, or faisans, 403
Grouse, 403
Ptarmigan, 404
Black cocks and gray hens, 405
Partridge, or perdrix, 405
Dun bird, 405
Wild duck, or canard sauvage, 405--406
Teal, or cercelles, 406--407
Plovers, or pluviers, 407
Woodcock, or bécasse, 408
Larks, or mauviettes, 408
Snipes, or bécassines, 409
Hares, or lièvres, 409
Leverets, or levrauts, 409
Rabbits, or lapins, 409
SAVOURY DISHES FOR SECOND COURSE. Composed of--
Boar’s head, ribs and fillets of beef, ox tongue, cold ham, 410--419
Fillet and loin of veal, galantine, and pâtés of veal
and ham, cotelettes of veal, and sweetbread, 420--424
Cotelettes, turban, and carbonade of mutton, 425
Balottins and cotelettes of lamb, 426--427
Galantine and pâté of turkey, capon (or poularde), 428--433
Chaud-froid of poularde (or capon), fillets of do.,
duckling en aspic, salad of fowl, aspic mould, 434--438
Galantine, pâtés, fillet, and chaud-froid of pheasant, 439--440
Galantine and salad of grouse, 441
Galantine and pâtés of partridges, 442--443
Woodcocks and pâtés froid of larks (cold), 444
Lobster salad, mayonnaises of lobster, lobster en aspic au gratin, 445--446
Crabs, oysters en coquilles, salad of fillet of soles,
trout and salmon pickled, galantine of eels, 447--449
VEGETABLES FOR SECOND COURSE.
Asparagus, sea kale, celery, salsify,
cucumbers, and vegetable marrow, 450--454
Jerusalem artichokes, cauliflowers, brocoli, 455--456
Artichokes, peas, French beans, Brussels sprouts, 457--462
Spinach, endive, sorrel, lettuces, 463--465
Windsor beans, white haricot do., 466--467
Tomatas and mushrooms, 468
Carrots, turnips, onions, spring vegetables, 469
Potatoes, lentils, truffles, 470--474
Omelettes fines herbes, ham, truffles, mushrooms, olives,
jardinière, oysters,
fillets of soles, muscles, lobsters, sugar, preserves,
and rum, 474--477
ENTREMETS, OR SWEETS.
Observations on pastry, different sorts of paste,
puffpaste, do. with beef suet,
do. half puff, confectioner’s paste, almond paste, and gum paste, 478--483
Vol-au-vents of peaches, apricots, greengages, cherries, pears, apples,
oranges, and gateau mille-feuille, 484--486
Turban à la crême, wells of fruit, Pthiviers cakes, 487--488
Tourtes, tartelettes, and fanchonettes à la vanille, 489--493
Dauphines, tartelettes, mirlitons, and petits vol-au-vents, 494--495
Gateaux fourrés with preserves, 497--499
Turban de Condé, and apricot cakes, 500
Petites bouchées, eventail with cherries, petits gateaux royals, 501
A flan of puff paste, do. of apples,
do. of pears, do. crême pralinée, 502--503
Pâte à choux, petits choux with cream,
almond, petits pains crêmière, 504--505
Madeline with port wine, génoise, darioles, 506--507
Biscatelles, cakes à l’Indienne gauffres aux
pistaches, Allemande, vanilla, red nougat, 508--510
Small cups of nougat, nougat with apricots,
crisp chesnuts amandes croquantes, meringues, 510--512
Turban of meringues, 513
Meringue iced, do. aux pistaches, mushrooms en surprise, 514
Biscuits manqués with almonds, do. with rum, 515
Calf’s foot jelly, and various other jellies, 516--524
Creams, various, 524--528
Bavaroises, various, 529--531
Charlottes, chartreuses, suédoises, bread and
croquettes of apples, 532--536
Apples, pears, and apricots with rice, 537--538
Pommes meringués, miroton, fritters of apples, peaches and apricots, 539--542
Croquettes of rice, cream of rice, macaroni, vermicelli, and cream fried, 543
Beignets soufflés, frangipane, 544
Omelette Célestine, pannequets with preserve, 545
REMOVES, SECOND COURSE, 548--574
SOUFFLES, FOR REMOVES, 575--583
APPENDIX, THE SECOND.
Aspic, 585
Mayonnaise à la gelée, do. fines herbes,
do. ravigote verte, do. ordinaire, do. Provençale, 586--589
Montpellier butter, forcemeat for raised
pie, and of liver for do. sponge cake,
savoy cake in mould, biscuits, to clarify isinglass, 591--592
Iceing, and chocolate iceing, sugar in grain, and to colour it, 593
Vanilla and lemon sugar, to clarify and boil sugar, sugar thread,
594--596
Iced cream of vanilla, coffee, chocolate, pine apple, lemon, orange,
apricot, and strawberry, 597--599
Marmalade of apples, apricot, quince, cherries, strawberries, and
raspberries, 600--602
Jelly of apples, quince, currant and raspberries, and to preserve
tomatas, 602--604
MY TABLE AT HOME.
Plain joints, 637--649
Soups, 652--656
Fish, 656--660
Fresh-water fish, 660--662
Simple hors-d’œuvres, 663
Removes simplified, 664--672
Sauces, 673--675
Economical made dishes, 676--687
Economical made dishes from poultry, 688--691
Game, 692--695
Meat pies and puddings, 696
SECOND COURSE, 698--701
Jellies of liqueurs or spirits, 702
Bohemian jelly cream, 703--710
MISCELLANEOUS.
Dedication to H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge, iii
List of distinguished Personages who have patronized the work, v
Preface, vii
Preface to the Fourth Edition, ix
Description of the composition of this work, xi
Soyer’s new mode of carving, xiv
Directions for carving, xv
How to carve a haunch of venison, xviii
Saddleback of venison, xix
Carving of poultry, xx
Soyer’s Tendon Separator, xxi
Directions for larding, xxv
Meat and poultry, xxvi
Fish, xxvii
Vegetables and fruit, ib.
How everything should be in cooking, xxviii
Braised roast turkey, capon, or fowl, xxx
AMATEUR RECEIPTS--Ris de Veau aux Pistaches à la Dr. Roots, ib.
Potage froid, ou Salade à la Dr. Roots, ib.
Roast Swan à la Norwich, xxxi
Cock a Leekie à la Wemyss, ib.
Bouquet de Gibier, or Sporting Nosegay, xxxii
Olive Branch between France and England, xxxiii
Number of stewpans and other utensils required, xxxiv
Service pagodatique, 606
Table of the wealthy and bill of fare for ten persons, 607
Dîner Lucullusian à la Sampayo, 608
Bill of fare for the same, 609
Dialogue culinaire, 611
Description of the kitchen of the Reform Club, and plan, 613
Reference to the plan, 614
Kitchen of the Reform Club, 615--629
My kitchen at home, 630--632
The bachelor’s kitchen and cottage kitchen, 633
Dinner party at home, 634
Receipts, 637--710
Coffee, 711
Monster bill of fare, 712
Pagodatique entrée dish, 713
Celestial and terrestrial cream of Great Britain, 719
General table of contents }
Madame Soyer’s biography } at the end of
Criticisms of the press } the book.
ENGRAVINGS.
PAGE
Portrait of the Author 1
Emblematical woodcut iv
A Turkey, prepared according to M. Soyer’s new plan xvi
Carving a haunch of venison xviii
Carving of poultry xxi
The Tendon Separator xxiii
Fowl--one half with the flesh on, and the other half dissected xxiv
Mutton, pork, and lamb cutlets 294
Table of the wealthy 607
Kitchen of the Reform Club 612
Ground plan of ditto 614
Fifteen engravings representing
the fitting-up of the kitchen of the wealthy 610 to 629
Ground plan of my kitchen at home 632
The bachelor’s and the cottage kitchen 634
My table at home 635
Saddle-back of mutton 644
A new mutton cutlet 677
Pagodatique entrée dish 714
Dindonneau à la Nelson, Poularde en diadème, Galantine à la volière, Salade
de grouse à la Soyer, Mayonnaise de homard, Croustades of bread for
the centre of removes, Croustade for filet de bœuf, Croustades for
poularde en diadème, Croustades for turkey à la Nelson, Gateau Britannique,
Crême Cerito sultane sylphe à la fille de l’orage, Six jelly moulds,
and the Atelettes for Flancs, Removes, &c. 720
Portrait of Madame Soyer, Biography at the end of the book.
THE
GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR.
SAUCES.
The first eight sauces are what we term Foundation sauces; but to
facilitate and simplify the making of all kinds of made dishes, I have
throughout this work principally referred to the Brown Sauce (No. 1),
and the White Sauce (No. 7), which are the two sauces I daily and
principally use. The others are of course very good, and sometimes
necessary; but being more complicated, I would recommend that they be
left to culinary artists, who can easily surmount this difficulty. The
two above-mentioned sauces require nothing but a little care and
attention; if well made, you will have little trouble with the smaller
sauces; for the foundation sauces being well made, the smaller ones
require little more than the ingredients directed for them, to give them
their proper flavour; but if badly made, it would injure the whole
dinner. The above-named sauces will keep four or five days in summer,
and a week in winter, by adding a quart of light broth, and boiling them
up every day in summer, and every other day in winter.
The following proportions in the foundation sauces are sufficient for a
large dinner; but of course where so much is not required, a quarter, or
even a smaller quantity can be made.
The colour of the brown sauce ought to be as near as possible to that of
the horse-chesnut, whilst the white sauce should be of the colour of
rich cream. If possible, nothing but the best flour should ever be used
for a roux, which is the French culinary term for thickening; for
inferior or new flour loses its strength by boiling, and your sauce
would become thin and watery: but if such be the case, you should make
more roux, to obviate this difficulty, which must be well mixed with a
little cold stock, poured into the sauce, and all boiled together till
you have obtained the consistency directed.
No. 1. _Brown Sauce._
Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a large thick-bottomed stewpan,
rub it all over the bottom, then peel and cut ten large onions in
halves, with which cover the bottom; then take two pounds of lean ham
cut into slices, which lay over the onions; having ready cut in large
slices twenty pounds of leg of beef and veal, put it over the ham, and
place the stewpan over a sharp fire; let it remain a quarter of an hour,
then with a large wooden spoon move the whole mass round, but keeping
the onions still at the bottom. Keeping it over the fire, and stirring
it occasionally, until the bottom is covered with a light brown glaze,
then prick the meat with a fork, take off the stewpan, and put some
ashes upon the fire, to deaden its heat; place the stewpan again over
it, and let it stand half an hour longer, stirring it twice during that
time; the bottom will then be covered with a thick but clear brown
glaze; fill it up with fourteen quarts of water or sixteen of light
stock (No. 133), then add three turnips, two carrots, four blades of
mace, and a bunch of ten sprigs of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and
four bay-leaves; leave it over the fire until it boils, then place it on
the corner, add a quarter of a pound of salt; skim off all the fat, and
let it simmer for two hours, adding two quarts of cold water by degrees,
to clarify it and keep it to its original quantity; then skim it again,
and pass the stock through a fine cloth into a basin, (by filling up the
stewpan again with water you will have then an excellent second
stock--for filling up stocks for soups or sauces, this remark also
applies to every description of stocks;) if by any misfortune the stock
should become thick, clarify it as directed (No. 134).
Then proceed as follows: put one pound of butter into a deep stewpan,
(which is the best for this purpose,) place it over the fire, stirring
it until it melts; then stir in a pound and a half of best flour, mix it
well, and keep stirring it over the fire until it assumes a brownish
tinge; then take it from the fire, and keep stirring the roux until
partly cold, then pour in the stock quickly, still stirring it; place it
over a sharp fire, stirring it until it boils, then place it at the
corner of the stove, and let it simmer an hour and a half; by keeping it
skimmed, you will take off all the butter, and the sauce will become
clear and transparent; place it again over a sharp fire, and keep it
stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through
a tammie into a basin, stirring it round occasionally until cold, and
use it where required. Should the colour of the sauce be too pale, add a
few spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135).
No. 2. _Espagnole Sauce._
Put half a pound of butter into a large thick-bottomed stewpan, and
cover the bottom with good slices of ham about a quarter of an inch in
thickness; then cut up two legs of veal into as large slices as
possible, (having twenty pounds of meat,) but reserving the nut, or
noix, for flanks or entrées, (see No. 565;) put the meat without any of
the bone into the stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire for twenty
minutes, then shake it round, to prevent the ham sticking to the
bottom; cover it over quite close, then put a few ashes upon the fire;
put the stewpan again over it, shaking it round occasionally, and once
or twice turning the whole mass round together with a wooden spoon until
the bottom is covered with a light glaze; prick the meat with a fork to
let out the gravy, and with it remove the bottom pieces to the top;
replace it upon the fire, shaking it round occasionally until each piece
of meat be covered with a clear brown glaze; then fill up the stewpan
with sixteen quarts of light stock (No. 133); add six onions (in one of
which you have stuck six cloves), twelve peppercorns, two blades of
mace, two carrots, a good bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme, and
four bay-leaves; when it boils place it on the corner of the stove, skim
it, and add two ounces of salt; let it boil rather quickly, adding two
quarts of water by degrees, which will facilitate the abstraction of all
the fat in skimming; boil it two hours, then pass the stock through a
fine cloth into a basin. Make a roux, and terminate your sauce as
described in the last.
No. 3. _Brown Sauce from all sorts of meat._
Knowing by experience the difficulty of getting meat for stock in the
country, especially veal, I will, for the convenience of families, give
a receipt for brown sauce, to be made from rabbits, poultry, trimmings
of mutton, beef, pork, or even venison; (but to every ten pounds of meat
required, use twelve, as it is not so succulent as beef or veal.) In
Scotland I was compelled to use venison even for _beef_-tea; this may
appear rather strange, but it is no less true; for although the wealth
of my employer would have enabled me to have anything required for my
use, money could not purchase it at the time required. The mock beef-tea
had of course a wild flavour, but it was still very palatable. Butter
the bottom of a thick stewpan, upon which lay ten large onions peeled
and cut in halves, then put in what trimmings of meat or poultry you may
have, proceed exactly with it as directed for brown sauce (No. 1), but
using stock or water in proportion to the quantity of meat; the same
precaution must be used likewise with the quantity of roux used for
thickening.
No. 4. _For thickening Brown Sauce without making a roux._
Make your stock as directed in either of the three last receipts,
(according to circumstances;) if sixteen quarts, bake two pounds of the
best flour in a moderate oven, without letting it brown; sift it, and
when quite cold mix it into a thin paste with two quarts of cold stock;
mix it by degrees, getting it as smooth as possible; have the stock for
your sauce boiling in a stewpan upon the fire, into which pour in the
paste, keeping it stirred until it boils; then set it at the corner of
the stove; let it simmer an hour and a half; skim it well, then place it
upon a brisk fire, and add a few chopped mushrooms, boil it very
quickly, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the spoon;
then pass it through a tammie as before, and use it where required.
No. 5. _Velouté._
This sauce has stood for a century as a foundation sauce in the highest
class of cookery, and may be admired for its utility, and the delicacy
of its flavour; but I have avoided referring to it in almost every
receipt on account of the expense attached to it and its tedious
fabrication. According to the old system, it requires two days to
complete it; one for the simmering of the stock, and the other for the
sauce. I have here, however, succeeded in simplifying it, by which the
aroma of its component parts are better preserved than when subject to
so long boiling.
Put six tablespoonfuls of oil in a large thick-bottomed stewpan, rub it
over the bottom, then lay in twenty pounds of veal in large slices,
(from knuckles or the under part of legs,) an old fowl, two carrots, six
onions, (in one of which you have stuck six cloves,) two blades of mace,
four pounds of good ham, and a bunch of parsley, six sprigs of thyme,
and four bay-leaves; pour in a pint of water, and place the stewpan upon
a sharp fire; when it begins to form large bubbles, stir the whole round
with a large wooden spoon; place some ashes upon the fire, and some live
charcoal upon the lid of the stewpan; take off the lid occasionally, and
stir the meat round, prick it, and when each piece is covered with a
light white glaze fill up the stewpan with sixteen quarts of light stock
(No. 133), or water, add a quarter of a pound of salt, if water, but
only three ounces, if stock; when upon the point of boiling, stand it on
the corner of the stove and let it simmer for two hours and a half,
keeping it well skimmed, and adding a little cold water every now and
then, to clarify it and keep its quantity; pass it through a fine cloth
into a basin; then in another stewpan have a pound of fresh butter,
which melt upon a slow fire, stirring in one pound and a half of flour,
stir it over the fire ten minutes (but do not let it change colour), add
the trimmings of half a pottle of mushrooms; stir it round another
minute, then take it off the fire and keep stirring it until about half
cold; then pour in the stock all at once, keeping it stirred quickly;
place it over a sharp fire, and stir it until it boils, then place it at
the corner of the fire and let it simmer for two hours, keeping it well
skimmed; pass it through a tammie into a basin, and stir it occasionally
until cold; when wanted, take the quantity you require, reduce it over a
sharp fire, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the back of the
spoon; finish with half a pint of cream or boiled milk.
This sauce, when well made, should be as white as ivory; it is used for
removes or entrées of poultry, and may be substituted for white sauce in
any of these receipts.
No. 6. _Velouté, a plainer way._
Well oil the bottom of a thick stewpan; cut twelve pounds of veal in
dice, (lamb trimmings or rabbits may be used with it,) and two pounds of
lean ham also cut in dice; put the whole into the stewpan with three
onions, a carrot, four cloves, a blade of mace, half a grated nutmeg,
and a bunch of parsley, four sprigs of thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour
in a pint of water, and set it over a sharp fire, stirring it round
occasionally, (the fire should be sharp at first, but very slow at the
finish,) until the meat and the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a
white glaze; then add a pound of flour, mix it well with the meat, then
fill up the stewpan with ten quarts of stock (No. 133), or water; add
three ounces of salt, if with water, but two if with stock, and keep
moving it round until upon the point of boiling, when place it on the
corner of the stove and let it simmer two hours, keeping it well
skimmed; then pass it through a hair sieve into a basin, and again
through a tammie into another stewpan; add a few chopped mushrooms; stir
it over the fire until it is reduced to a proper consistency, (this
sauce is quickly done, and full of flavour;) finish with a pint of cream
or boiling milk, and use it as directed in the last.
No. 7. _Veal Stock, White Sauce, or Bechamel._
Cut twelve pounds of knuckles of veal into large dice, with two pounds
of lean ham; well butter the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put
the meat, (some of the bones of the knuckles may be included in the
weight of the meat, but not much,) with three large onions, one carrot,
a blade of mace, four cloves, and a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of
thyme, and two bay-leaves; pour in half a pint of water, and place the
stewpan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is
covered with a clear white glaze, then fill it up with ten quarts of
stock (No. 133), or nine of water; add three ounces of salt, and when
upon the point of boiling, place it on the corner of the fire; let it
simmer two hours and a half, keeping it skimmed, and adding cold water
occasionally, to keep the quantity, then pass it through a fine cloth
into a basin;[3] then in another stewpan have one pound of fresh butter,
melt it over a slow fire and stir in one pound and a half of flour, stir
it over the fire ten minutes, but do not let it change colour; then take
it from the fire, stirring it until half cold, then pour in the stock,
stirring it quickly all the time; place it over a sharp fire, keep
stirring, and boil it for half an hour; add two tablespoonfuls of
chopped mushrooms, and a quart of boiling milk; boil it ten minutes
longer, then pass it through a tammie into a basin; stir it occasionally
until cold, and use it where required.
This sauce is easily made, full of flavour, and has a very good
appearance.
No. 8. _Sauce Allemande; (or German Sauce blanche.)_
Is made from either of the three foregoing sauces. Put three quarts in a
stewpan, which place over a sharp fire; reduce it to one third, keeping
it stirred the whole time, it will then be very thick; have the yolks of
six eggs in a convenient sized basin; mix the sauce with them by
degrees, and turn it again into the stewpan; stir it again over the fire
until the yolks are quite done, which will take about five minutes; have
three pints of stock reserved from the original sauce, with which mix it
by degrees; also add a pint of boiling milk, but do not make it too
thin; boil it again ten minutes, then pass it through a tammie into a
basin, and stir it occasionally until cold.
Use it for entrées or removes of poultry, either hot or cold; but for
cold removes of poultry it is best adapted.
_This_ sauce never looks greasy; it will keep four or five days.
No. 9. _Demi-Glace._
Put two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan with one quart of
consommé (No. 134), one ounce of glaze, four tablespoonfuls of tomate
sauce (No. 37), place it over the fire, and when boiling place it at the
corner, let it simmer very fast, skim it well, and reduce it to a clear
light glaze, with sufficient consistence to adhere lightly to the back
of the spoon; then put it by in a basin, and use it where directed.
All thin sauces are or will become very much in vogue; they invigorate
the appetite without overloading the stomach; and are, consequently,
more wholesome; all brown sauces are preferable for meat or game
entrées, and in some instances, which you will see, for poultry; but of
course the arrangement of your tables would prevent you serving all
white or all brown entrées.
For families who have their entrées placed upon the table at the same
time as the soup and fish, a thin sauce is much preferable; for if even
the sauce should retain the same degree of heat it was served at, it
will become much thicker by standing; but a sauce served thick if
allowed to remain becomes almost uneatable.
No. 10. _Sauce au jus d’Estragon._
Put two spoonfuls of common vinegar into a stewpan, place it over the
fire, and when boiling add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and
six of consommé (No. 134), add a quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered
sugar, place it over the fire and let it reduce very fast until it
adheres lightly to the back of the spoon, then add thirty fresh leaves
of tarragon, let it just boil up and it is ready for use. Do not make it
too long before you require to use it, or the tarragon would spoil the
appearance of the sauce.
No. 11. _Jus d’Estragon clair._
Put two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar into a stewpan with a piece of
glaze the size of a walnut; place it over the fire, let it boil, then
add a quart of consommé (No. 134), and two spoonfuls of brown gravy (No.
135), reduce it to half, season with a little sugar and pepper, finish
with leaves of tarragon, as in the last.
No. 12. _Sauce au jus de Tomates._
Put an onion in slices into a stewpan with two sprigs of thyme, one
bay-leaf, half a blade of mace, one clove, four sprigs of parsley, two
ounces of lean ham, and one ounce of butter; stir them round over a slow
fire until becoming rather brown, then add a spoonful of Chili vinegar,
ten of demi-glace (No. 9), and ten of consommé (No. 134), boil
altogether about ten minutes, skim it, then add ten spoonfuls of very
bright preserved tomates, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a very little
scraped garlic; season with a little cayenne pepper and salt; boil
altogether five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it again into a
stewpan, set it upon the fire, boil and skim it. Use it where directed.
No. 13. _Sauce au jus de Champignons._
Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace, (No. 9), into a stewpan with six
of consommé (No. 134), and a little sugar; place it upon the fire and
reduce it to a clear light demi-glaze; skim it well, then have chopped
six good fresh mushrooms, throw them into the sauce, boil them ten
minutes, then rub them through a tammie; put it again into a stewpan,
warm it, but do not let it boil; after you have passed it, if made in
the morning, warm it in your _bain marie_ when required.
No. 14. _Sauce demi-provençale._
Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with sixteen
of consommé (No. 134), place it over a sharp fire, reduce it to two
thirds, skim it, scrape half a clove of garlic with a knife, and put it
into the sauce with a little sugar, boil it again two minutes, and it is
ready for use.
No. 15. _Sauce au jus piquant._
Put two spoonfuls of chopped eschalots into a stewpan with three of
vinegar; reduce it to half over the fire, then add eighteen spoonfuls of
demi-glace (No. 9), and six of consommé (No. 134), boil it about a
quarter of an hour, skim it well, add half a teaspoonful of sugar, and
when again forming a light glaze, add two tablespoonfuls of chopped
gherkins, and a little cayenne pepper; it must not boil afterwards.
No. 16. _Sauce au jus d’Echalote._
Put three tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, place it over a sharp fire a couple of
minutes, then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of
consommé (No. 134), boil, skim, and reduce it until it adheres to the
back of the spoon, add a little sugar and cayenne pepper. Serve where
directed.
No. 17. _Sauce au jus d’Orange._
Take the rind from an orange as thinly as possible, take off all the
pith, and cut it into thin strips, three quarters of an inch in length;
boil them five minutes in water, and drain them upon the back of a hair
sieve; then put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with six
spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), reduce it over the fire to the
consistency of demi-glace, then add the rind of the orange and a little
sugar, boil it another five minutes, and when ready to serve add a
little of the juice of the orange.
No. 18. _Sauce au jus de Bigarades._
Proceed as directed in the last, but substituting a Seville orange for
the sweet one, and boiling the rind ten minutes instead of five.
No. 19. _Jus lié demi Currie._
Peel and cut in slices a large onion, some carrot, turnip, two apples,
and two ounces of lean ham; put them into a stewpan with two cloves, a
blade of mace, a bay-leaf, sprig of thyme, parsley, and one ounce of
butter; put the stewpan over a slow fire, stir them round occasionally
until they become slightly browned, then add a good tablespoonful of the
best curry powder, mix it well, then add ten of consommé (No. 134) and
eighteen of demi-glace (No. 9), boil altogether, then rub it through a
tammie; put it in another stewpan, place it again upon the fire, skim it
well, and reduce it until it adheres to the back of the spoon, when add
a little sugar and cayenne if required, but that must depend entirely
upon taste.
No. 20. _Jus lié aux Concombres._
Prepare three middling-sized cucumbers, as directed (No. 103), then put
two ounces of butter with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and half one
of chopped onions, into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the
butter is melted add the cucumbers, which pass over the fire until
tender and slightly tinged; then put them out upon a cloth, put
eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into another stewpan with six
of consommé (No. 134), reduce it until rather thickish; then add the
cucumbers, boil them two minutes, season with a saltspoonful of salt,
and the half of one of pepper, skim it, and it is ready to serve.
No. 21. _Jus lié aux Truffles._
Put eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan with ten of
consommé (No. 134), reduce it until it becomes again a demi-glace, then
add six middling-sized French preserved truffles, cut in thin slices,
with a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, simmer gently ten minutes, it
is then ready to serve.
No. 22. _Jus lié aux Anchois._
Put six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan with three
of consommé (No. 134), and one of brown gravy (No. 135), place it upon
the fire, and when boiling stir in two ounces of anchovy butter (No.
78), stir it in quickly, but do not let it boil afterwards. This sauce
must be made only at the time of serving.
No. 23. _Jus lié aux fines Herbes._
Put two tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped onions into a stewpan with a
piece of butter the size of a walnut; stir them over the fire until
lightly browned; then add eighteen spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9), and
eight of consommé (No. 134), reduce it to two thirds, skim it well, then
add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped mushrooms,
with a little cayenne pepper, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered
sugar; boil altogether five minutes, and finish with the juice of half a
lemon; it is then ready for use.
No. 24. _Jus lié aux petits Navets._
Scoop four large turnips with a scoop about double the size of a pea;
when done, wash and well dry them upon a cloth, then put a little
powdered sugar into a convenient sized stewpan; place it upon the fire,
when it melts and becomes slightly tinged, throw in an ounce of butter
and the turnips, place them over a slow fire, tossing them over
occasionally until slightly browned; then in another stewpan put ten
spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9,) and six of consommé, then add your
turnips; let it simmer upon the corner of the fire, keeping it skimmed
until the turnips are done; add a little more seasoning, if required,
and it is ready for use.
No. 25. _Jus lié aux Olives._
Put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with the same
of salad oil; pass them five minutes over a slow fire, then add a
teaspoonful of port wine, eighteen of demi-glace (No. 9), and six of
consommé (No. 134), reduce it to two thirds, skimming it well, then have
twenty fine olives, turn them, taking out their stones, so that they
resume their original shape, put them into the stewpan with a little
sugar, boil them two minutes, and the sauce is ready. Should the olives
be too salt, soak them a short time in warm water.
No. 26. _Sauce aux fines Herbes._
Put three tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan with one ounce
of butter, stir them over a moderate fire until getting rather brownish,
then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of consommé (No.
134), and two spoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), let it simmer ten
minutes, skim it well, then stir it over a sharp fire, reducing it until
it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a spoonful of chopped
mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, and one of preserved tomates; season
with a little sugar, cayenne, and salt, if required. When ready to serve
add the juice of half a lemon.
No. 27. _Sauce piquante._
Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan with four of
common vinegar, and a small piece of glaze; let them boil together a few
minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), with half a pint of
consommé (No. 134), stir it quickly over a sharp fire until it adheres
to the back of the spoon; then add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms,
and a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins; it is then ready for use. This
sauce requires to be seasoned rather high with cayenne pepper, sugar,
and salt.
No. 28. _Sauce Robert._
Peel and cut up four middling-sized onions into very small dice, put
them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, stir them over a moderate
fire until rather brown; then add two tablespoonfuls of common vinegar,
let it boil; then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), with half a pint of
consommé (No. 134), let it simmer at the corner of the stove ten
minutes; skim it well, then stir it over a sharp fire, reducing it until
rather thick; finish it with two tablespoonfuls of French mustard, a
little sugar, and salt, if required.
No. 29. _Sauce Robert demi-provençale._
Put the same quantity of onions into a stewpan as in the last, but using
two tablespoonfuls of salad oil instead of butter; proceed as in the
last, and finish with a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea. Use
this sauce for any purpose you would the preceding one.
No. 30. _Sauce à l’Italienne._
Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions and one of chopped eschalots in
a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, stir them ten minutes
over a sharp fire; then add a wine-glassful of sherry, a pint of brown
sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommé (No. 134), set it over a
sharp fire until it boils, then place it at the corner, let it simmer
ten minutes, skim off all the oil which it will throw up, then place it
over the fire, stir with a spoon, reducing it until it adheres to the
back of it, then add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful
of chopped mushrooms, a little sugar, salt if required, and finish with
the juice of half a lemon.
No. 31. _Sauce à l’Italienne_ (_white._)
Italian sauce for any description of fish, white meat, or poultry, must
be made white, which is done by following the directions of the
preceding receipts, only substituting white sauce (No. 7) for the brown,
and finishing with three spoonfuls of cream.
No. 32. _Sauce Poivrade._
Put two onions, half a carrot, and a turnip, in slices, into a stewpan,
with two ounces of butter, a little celery, leek, a sprig of parsley,
one of thyme, one bay-leaf, two ounces of lean ham, and eight
peppercorns; pass them over a sharp fire until rather brown, add six
tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, just boil it, then add a pint of
brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommé (No. 134); simmer a
short time, skim it, then reduce quickly until it adheres to the back of
the spoon, then pass it through a tammie and use where directed. This
sauce requires to be highly seasoned.
No. 33. _Sauce poivrade demi-provençale._
Proceed as in the last, but adding two eschalots to the vegetables,
which pass[4] in a tablespoonful of oil instead of butter, and finish
with a little scraped garlic.
No. 34. _Sauce à la Batelière._
Put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped tarragon, one
of chopped parsley, and four of chopped mushrooms into a stewpan with
one blade of mace, three cloves, a wineglassful of vinegar, and one of
sherry; set it upon the fire until nearly dry, then add a quart of brown
sauce (No. 1), with a pint of consommé, (No. 134), reduce it until it
adheres to the back of the spoon, then add a spoonful of chopped
gherkins, and one of chopped capers; when ready to serve stir in an
ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78). Do not let it boil afterwards.
This sauce is a good zest for any description of broiled meat or
poultry.
No. 35. _Sauce à la Réform._
Cut up two middling-sized onions into thin slices and put them into a
stewpan with two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, two
ounces of lean uncooked ham, half a clove of garlic, half a blade of
mace, and an ounce of fresh butter; stir them ten minutes over a sharp
fire, then add two tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, and one of Chili
vinegar, boil it one minute; then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), or
sauce Espagnole (No. 2), three tablespoonfuls of preserved tomates, and
eight of consommé (No. 134); place it over the fire until boiling, then
put it at the corner, let it simmer ten minutes, skim it well, then
place it again over the fire, keeping it stirred, and reduce until it
adheres to the back of the spoon; then add a good tablespoonful of red
currant jelly, and half do. of chopped mushrooms; season a little more
if required with pepper and salt; stir it until the jelly is melted,
then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan. When ready to serve,
make it hot, and add the white of a hard-boiled egg cut into strips half
an inch long, and thick in proportion, four white blanched mushrooms,
one gherkin, two green Indian pickles, and half an ounce of cooked ham,
or tongue, all cut in strips like the white of egg; do not let it boil
afterwards. This sauce must be poured over whatever it is served with.
No. 36. _Sauce au jus de Groseilles._
Put a couple of onions in slices into a stewpan, with half an ounce of
butter, a sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf; pass them over a sharp fire
until lightly browned; add two teaspoonfuls of common vinegar, let it
boil, and then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of
consommé (No. 134); let it simmer ten minutes at the corner of the fire,
skim it well, then place it over the fire, stir and reduce it well,
until it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon; then add two
tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly; pass it through a tammie, and it is
ready to serve with roast hares, fillet, &c., where directed.
No. 37. _Sauce aux Tomates._
Procure two dozen ripe tomates, take out the stalk, squeeze out the
juice and the seeds, then put them into a stewpan with a little salt,
stew until tender, and drain them upon a sieve; then, in another
stewpan, put two onions, part of a carrot, and a turnip, all cut in very
thin slices, with a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme, two
bay-leaves, two cloves, a blade of mace, a clove of garlic, two ounces
of lean uncooked ham, and a quarter of a pound of butter; place the
stewpan over a moderate fire, stir the mierepoix round occasionally,
until the vegetables are tender, then add the tomates, stir them over
the fire another minute, then stir in six ounces of flour, and add two
quarts of consommé (No. 134); boil altogether twenty-five minutes,
keeping it stirred, season it with a little salt, sugar, and cayenne
pepper, then rub it through a tammie; put it into another stewpan, set
it over the fire, when boiling place it at the corner, let simmer ten
minutes, skim well, then pour it in a basin, and use where directed. If
no tomates, use two bottles of preserved tomatas. If too thick, dilute
it with a little more consommé.
No. 38. _Sauce à la Tartare._
Rub the yolk of a cold hard-boiled egg through a hair-sieve into a
basin, to which add the yolks of two raw eggs, with a little salt and
pepper; mix altogether with a wooden spoon; have a pint of good salad
oil in a bottle, hold it with the left hand over the basin, dropping it
in very gradually, and with the right continue stirring it round until
it becomes rather thick, then moisten it with a little Tarragon vinegar,
still keeping it stirred, then more oil, and so on until you have used
all the oil, keeping it rather thick; then add a tablespoonful of
finely-chopped gherkins, half a do. of chopped capers, half a do. of
chopped eschalots, and the same of chopped parsley, two of French
mustard, a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and more salt if required, it
is then ready for use. This sauce requires to be rather highly seasoned.
No. 39. _Papillote Sauce._
Scrape two ounces of fat bacon, which put into a stewpan, with two
tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, and four of chopped mushrooms; stir
them over a moderate fire ten minutes, then add half a tablespoonful of
flour (mix it well) and a quart of demi-glace (No. 9); let it simmer ten
minutes, skim it; then add a spoonful of chopped parsley, a little
pepper and salt, half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little
grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, then place it upon the fire;
keep it stirred, and reduce until rather thick, then pour it into a
basin, and use where directed. This sauce requires to be thick, but not
pasty; it is folded in paper with cotelettes, joints of poultry, game,
&c., with which it is also broiled and served, without taking them out
of the papers.
No. 40. _Sauce à la Diable._
Chop six large eschalots, wash and press them in a clean cloth, then put
them into a stewpan with two wine-glasses full of Chili vinegar, a piece
of garlic, two bay-leaves, and an ounce of glaze; boil all together ten
minutes, then add four tablespoonfuls of tomate sauce (No. 37), a little
sugar, and ten of good gravy; boil it ten minutes longer, then add a pat
of butter; stir it well in, and it is ready for use; serve it with
devilled kidneys, poultry, or anything broiled.
No. 41. _Sauce Corinthien._
Put four chopped gherkins into a stewpan with a tablespoonful of capers,
two of red currant jelly, half a teaspoonful of salt, a little cayenne
pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of chopped chalots, one
of chopped parsley, a wine-glassful of vinegar, and half a tablespoonful
of sugar; boil all together five minutes, then add six tablespoonfuls of
brown sauce (No. 1), and twelve of tomate sauce (No. 37), with six of
white broth; boil and skim it well; this peculiar sauce is good for all
kinds of broiled meat, game, or poultry, or may be eaten cold, with cold
meat.
No. 42. _Sauce Provençale chaude._
Put two yolks of egg in a stewpan, with half a tablespoonful of flour,
half a clove of garlic well scraped, a small quantity of cayenne pepper,
two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and the juice of half
a lemon; place it over a moderate fire, and stir it until it becomes
rather thick; then take it off the fire, stir in two tablespoonfuls of
oil by degrees, then eight of melted butter; if you should require to
warm it again, stir it in a bain marie of hot water. Use where required.
No. 43. _Sauce à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of
white stock or milk; boil it five minutes, then stir in three ounces of
maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79); stir it quickly over the fire until the
butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in;
this sauce should only be made at the time of serving.
No. 44. _Sauce à la Ravigote._
Proceed precisely as in the last, only using Ravigote butter (No. 80),
instead of the maître d’hôtel butter, as there directed.
The simplicity of the last two sauces is perhaps not greater than their
utility or delicacy; they may not only be served with various
descriptions of fish where directed, but with fillets of beef, mutton
and lamb cutlets, calf’s head, calves’ tails, and many other articles
where directed in this work.
No. 45. _Sauce à l’Indienne._
Put two good tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots into a stewpan, with
four of white vinegar from a bottle of mild Indian pickles, boil them a
couple of minutes, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and three
tablespoonfuls of white broth; reduce it over a sharp fire (keeping it
stirred) until rather thickish, then add two tablespoonfuls of cream,
and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan; when ready to serve
make it hot, and add six of the pickles, cut in strips, which serve in
it.
No. 46. _Curry Sauce._
Peel four large onions and two apples, slice, and put them into a
stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a blade of mace, six
peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, parsley, and two bay-leaves; stir them
over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add
two tablespoonfuls of the best curry-powder, and two of flour; mix it
well in, then add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and a quart of
white stock; season with a little salt, and half a teaspoonful of sugar;
boil it a quarter of an hour, keeping it stirred, then rub through a
tammie; put it into another stewpan, boil it up, skim and use it where
required. Mangoes or curry paste may be used, but then you only require
one spoonful of curry powder.
No. 47. _Sauce Soubise._
Peel six large onions, which cut in very thin slices, put them into a
stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and place them over a slow
fire, stirring occasionally until tender, but keeping them quite white;
then add an ounce of flour, mix it well in, then half a pint of white
sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of milk; boil altogether twenty minutes;
season with half a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, half ditto
of salt, and three quarters ditto of sugar, a little cream may also be
added; rub through a tammie, put it in another stewpan, make it hot, and
serve where required. This sauce must be rather thick, but not pasty.
No. 48. _Sauce Soubise (brown)._
Peel and slice six onions, as in the last, put them into a stewpan with
a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them over a moderate fire until
tender and of a light brown colour, then mix in one tablespoonful of
flour, add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), and ten tablespoonfuls of brown
gravy (No. 135), boil altogether until the onions are quite done, season
with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, rub it through a tammie,
put it into another stewpan, make it hot, and serve where directed.
No. 49. _Sauce à la Milanaise._
Cut thirty pieces of blanched maccaroni half an inch in length, as many
pieces of lean cooked ham of the same size, and an equal quantity of
white blanched mushrooms also the same, then put twelve tablespoonfuls
of white sauce (No. 7), in a stewpan with four of white broth, season
with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and sugar; boil it ten minutes, then
add the above ingredients with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese,
stir all gently over the fire ten minutes, finish with a tablespoonful
of cream, and use where required.
No. 50. _Sauce ou Ragout à la Financière._
Put a wineglassful of sherry into a stewpan with a piece of glaze the
size of a walnut, and a bay-leaf, place it upon the fire, and when it
boils add a quart of demi-glace (No. 9); let it boil ten minutes,
keeping it stirred; then add twelve fresh blanched mushrooms, twelve
prepared cockscombs, a throat sweetbread cut into thin slices, two
French preserved truffles also in slices, and twelve small quenelles
(No. 120); boil altogether ten minutes, skim it well, thin it with a
little consommé if required, but it must be rather thick, and seasoned
very palatably.
The above may also be made white by using bechamel, or white sauce (No.
7) instead of brown, and following the above directions and finishing
with half a gill of cream; serve in a vol-au-vent or wherever directed.
No. 51. _Sauce aux Truffles._
Put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, place it over the fire,
keeping it stirred until it has reduced one third; have four
middling-sized preserved French truffles cut into slices, which throw
into the sauce, add a little sugar, and take it from the fire, not
allowing it to boil after the truffles are in; it is then ready to serve
where directed: by this simple method you retain the full flavour of the
truffles, and keep them tender. Sauce aux truffles may also be made
white by using white sauce (No. 7), instead of demi-glace, and finishing
with half a gill of cream, but it requires to be rather thicker than the
brown. When brown, neither this sauce nor the following must be too
thick.
No. 52. _Sauce aux Champignons._
Put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, reduce it to one third,
keeping it stirred, then add twenty blanched mushrooms (No. 107), a
little catsup, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; boil altogether a few
minutes, skim it, and it is ready to serve. To make it white put a pint
of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan with half a teaspoonful of sugar,
when it boils add twenty mushrooms, boil altogether ten minutes, then
stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of
cream, but do not let it boil afterwards.
No. 53. _Sauce à la purée de Truffles._
Well pound eight middling-sized French preserved truffles, which
afterwards rub through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, then put half
an onion, a small piece of carrot and turnip, cut into very thin
slices, into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, half
a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, and an ounce of lean uncooked ham; stir
them over the fire until quite tender; then add half a glass of wine and
the pounded truffles, with which mix half a teaspoonful of flour; then
add eight good tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), boil it ten
minutes; then rub it through a tammie, put it into another stewpan, add
a little consommé (No. 134), boil it up, season with a little sugar, and
salt, if required, and use where directed.
No. 54. _Sauce à la purée de Champignons._
Well pound a pottle of very fresh white mushrooms, then put half an
onion, a small piece of carrot, and a small piece of turnip, cut into
very thin slices, into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, half a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, and an ounce of lean
uncooked ham; stir them over the fire until quite tender, then add the
mushrooms, and eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7); season with
a little salt, and sugar, boil it ten minutes, add four tablespoonfuls
of cream, and rub it through a tammie, put it into a stewpan, boil it
one minute, and it is ready for use.
No. 55. _Sauce Perigeux._
Put four middling-sized truffles, chopped very fine, into a stewpan with
a glass of sherry, boil it one minute, then add a pint of demi-glace
(No. 9), season with a little sugar, and salt, if required, boil a
minute and it is ready to serve.
No. 56. _Sauce Bechamel à la Crème._
Put a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of white stock
(No. 133), in a stewpan, reduce it over a sharp fire, (keeping it
stirred), to one half, then add half a pint of good cream, a little
sugar, and salt if required, boil it another minute, and serve where
required.
No. 57. _Sauce au Suprême._
Take the bones of a fowl you have filetted, or the trimmings of any
other fowl, either roast or braised, (which is preferable if any,) but
if using the bones of a raw fowl lay it in warm water two hours to
disgorge, break the bones small and put them into a stewpan with half an
ounce of butter, a glass of sherry, one onion with a clove stuck in it,
and one ounce of ham; place it over a good fire, keep stirring
occasionally until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light
glaze, then add a quart of light broth (No. 133), let it boil at the
corner of the stove, skim and reduce it to one third, pass it through a
cloth, (but first carefully take off every particle of fat), into a
large stewpan, add a pint of velouté (No. 5), or bechamel (No. 7),
reduce it over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until it adheres to the
back of the spoon; then add a little sugar and four tablespoonfuls of
cream, boil two minutes longer, pass it through a tammie, and use where
required.
No. 58. _Velouté de Gibier._
Must be made either from pheasant or partridge; (wild rabbit may be
introduced); chop up the bones, which put into a stewpan with an onion,
the quarter of a carrot, and the quarter of a turnip (cut up small), a
little parsley, thyme, and one bay-leaf; add a glass of white wine; pass
them a few minutes over the fire, then add a quart of sauce velouté (No.
5), or sauce bechamel (No. 7), and a pint of veal stock; place it again
over the fire, and keep stirring until it becomes rather thickish; then
add a gill of cream, and a little sugar, boil again until it adheres to
the back of the spoon, then pass it through a sieve, and afterwards
through a tammie, and use where directed. The bones of two partridges or
one pheasant would be sufficient.
No. 59. _Sauce à la purée de Gibier._
Roast a grouse, and separate all the flesh from the bones, make a sauce
with the bones as directed in the next; pound the flesh well in a
mortar, put it into a stewpan; then add the sauce, boil altogether five
minutes, then rub it through a tammie, and serve where directed.
Any description of game, or the remains of some from a previous dinner,
may be used for the above purpose; the purée requires to be as thick as
bechamel sauce (No. 7).
No. 60. _Sauce au fumée de Gibier._
Roast two grouse, let them get partly cold if time permits, then cut
them into joints, which use for a salmi (see No. 876); chop the
trimmings up small, with the back bones, and put them into a stewpan
with a glass of sherry, an onion, a piece of carrot, and a piece of
turnip, all in slices, a little celery, a sprig of thyme, and parsley, a
bay-leaf, one clove, and half a blade of mace, stir them over the fire
five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of
consommé (No. 134); boil quickly upon the corner of the stove twenty
minutes, then skim it well, pass it through a sieve, and afterwards
through a tammie into a basin, and use where required.
The trimmings of any description of game, or some left from a previous
dinner, may be used for making the above sauce, but if you have the
choice, the trimmings of grouse are preferable.
No. 61. _Demi-glace de Gibier._
Make a sauce as above, when passed put it into a stewpan with a pint of
consommé (No. 134), and a tablespoonful of tomate sauce (No. 37); simmer
it at the corner of the stove ten minutes, add a little sugar, skim it
well, then reduce it quickly until a thinish glaze is formed and
adheres to the back of the spoon.
No. 62. _Sauce Matelotte._
Peel about twenty button onions, then put a teaspoonful of powdered
sugar in a stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and when melted and
getting brown, add a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, and your
onions, pass them over the fire until rather brown; then add a glass of
sherry, let it boil, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten
spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), simmer at the corner of the fire until
the onions are quite tender, skim it well; then add twenty small
quenelles (No. 120), ten heads of mushrooms, a teaspoonful of essence of
anchovies, one of catsup, one of Harvey sauce, and a little cayenne
pepper. Serve where directed.
No. 63. _Sauce Genevoise._
Put one tablespoonful of chopped onions and one of chopped eschalots
into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, pass them over the fire
until lightly browned, then add four glasses of port wine, two cloves,
and half a blade of mace, with two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, and one
of parsley, boil them a few minutes; then add a quart of brown sauce
(No. 1), and ten tablespoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), reduce it until
rather thick; then add one tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, boil it
another minute, then pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan; when
just ready to serve, boil it up, season it with a little salt, cayenne
pepper, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, then stir in one ounce of
anchovy butter (No. 78), but do not let it boil after. Serve with any
description as directed.
No. 64. _Sauce à la Beyrout._
Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with one of Chili
vinegar and one of common vinegar, eighteen spoonfuls of melted butter,
four of brown gravy, two of mushroom catsup, and two of Harvey sauce;
then place it over the fire, keep stirring until boiling, then place it
at the corner of the stove, let it simmer five minutes, skim it well,
then place it again over the fire and stir until it adheres to the back
of the spoon, then add two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and
half a teaspoonful of sugar; it is then ready to serve.
The above is a fish sauce, but may be used for meat or poultry by
substituting white sauce (No. 7) for melted butter (No. 71).
No. 65. _Sauce à l’essence de Poissons._
Have the bones of two whitings or soles, (having used the fillets),
break them into pieces and put them into a stewpan with an onion in
slices, a good bunch of parsley, a little thyme, bay-leaf, two cloves,
one glass of sherry, and ten of white broth; place it over the fire and
let it reduce until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light
glaze; then add eighteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and ten
of white broth, let it boil twenty minutes, then pass it through a
tammie into another stewpan, boil it again, and finish with half a gill
of cream and a little pepper and salt if required.
No. 66. _Sauce à la Hollandaise._
Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stewpan with the juice of half
a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and
a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; place the stewpan over a moderate
fire, and commence stirring it with a wooden spoon, (taking it off the
fire now and then when getting too hot), until the butter becomes melted
and thickens with the eggs, (great care must be exercised, for if it
should become too hot the eggs would curdle and render the sauce
useless); then add a pint of melted butter, stir it together over the
fire, but do not let it boil; pass it through a tammie into another
stewpan. When wanted stir it over the fire until quite hot.
No. 67. _Caper Sauce._
Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, place it upon
the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, add two ounces of fresh
butter and three tablespoonfuls of capers; shake the stewpan round over
the fire until the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and
serve where directed.
No. 68. _Lobster Sauce._
Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, cut, a
middling sized hen lobster into dice, make a quarter of a pound of
lobster butter with the spawn, as directed (No. 77); when the melted
butter is upon the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir the
sauce round over the fire, until the butter is melted; season with a
little essence of anchovy, the juice of half a lemon and a quarter of a
saltspoonful of cayenne, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan,
then add the flesh of the lobster. When hot, it is ready to serve where
directed. This sauce must be quite red, if no red in the lobster use
live spawn.
No. 69. _Oyster Sauce._
Mix three ounces of butter in a stewpan with two ounces of flour; then
blanch and beard three dozen oysters, as directed (No. 342); put the
oysters into another stewpan, and the beards and liquor to the other
ingredients, with a pint and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, half
a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, two cloves, half a blade of mace, and
six peppercorns; place it over the fire, keep stirring, and boil it ten
minutes; then add a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and one of
Harvey sauce; then pass it through a tammie over the oysters; make the
whole very hot, without boiling, when ready to serve.
_Another method._
Put a pint and a half of white sauce (No. 7) into a stewpan, with the
juice and beards of three dozen oysters, as above, six peppercorns, two
cloves, half a blade of mace; boil it ten minutes, then add a spoonful
of essence of anchovies, a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required;
pass it through a tammie over the oysters, as before.
_A plainer method._
Blanch three dozen oysters, take away their beards, and put them, with
their liquor, into a stewpan, with half a blade of mace, two cloves, and
six peppercorns; place them over the fire, and directly they boil add
half an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed half a tablespoonful
of flour; shake the stewpan round over the fire two or three minutes,
then add a little essence of anchovies; take out the spices, and serve;
this sauce is full of flavour, and very simple. If too thick add a
little milk.
No. 70. _Muscle Sauce._
Proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce, only using the liquor of
muscle (see No. 341), but not the beards, instead of oysters, and
serving muscle in the sauce; four dozen would be about the number
required.
No. 71. _Melted Butter._
Mix a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls
of flour, without putting it upon the fire; then add a pint and a half
of cold water, place it upon the fire, keep stirring until upon the
point of boiling, but do not let it boil; season with a tablespoonful of
vinegar, and a teaspoonful of salt, and the eighth of one of pepper;
pass it through a tammie into a basin, then add two ounces more of fresh
butter; keep stirring till the butter is melted; it is then ready for
use where required.
No. 72. _Anchovy Sauce._
Make the same quantity of melted butter as directed in the last, but
finish it with four good tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies; there
should be little or no salt in the melted butter.
No. 73. _Shrimp Sauce._
Make the melted butter as for the last, but finish with three
tablespoonfuls of the essence of shrimps, and serve half a pint of
picked shrimps in the boat with it. If no essence of shrimps, the
anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it as a substitute.
No. 74. _Demi Maître d’Hôtel Sauce._
Put half the above quantity of melted butter in a stewpan, and when upon
the point of boiling stir in a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel
butter (No. 79); directly it melts serve, but do not let it boil.
No. 75. _Fennel Sauce._
This is a sauce principally used for boiled mackerel; make the same
quantity of melted butter as in the last, to which add a good
tablespoonful of chopped fennel; serve it in a boat.
No. 76. _Egg Sauce._
Generally served with salt fish or a Dublin-bay haddock; boil six eggs
ten minutes, let them get cold, then cut them in pieces about the size
of dice; have eight tablespoonfuls of melted butter and three of good
cream in a stewpan, season with a little pepper and salt, boil it five
minutes, then add the eggs; shake the stewpan round over the fire until
the eggs are quite hot, then add two pats of butter; shake it round
until the butter is melted, then pour it into a boat, and serve very
hot.
No. 77. _Lobster Butter._
Procure a full-sized hen lobster, and quite full of spawn, which take
out and pound well in a mortar; then add a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, mix them well together, then rub it through a hair-sieve, and
put it on a plate upon the ice or in a cold place until wanted.
No. 78. _Anchovy Butter._
Take the bones from ten anchovies, wash the fillets; dry them upon a
cloth, and pound them well in a mortar; then add a quarter of a pound of
fresh butter; mix well together, and proceed as in the last.
No. 79. _Maître d’Hôtel Butter._
Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter upon a plate, with two good
tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, the juice of two lemons, half a
teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of white pepper; mix all
well together, and put in a cool place till required.
No. 80. _Ravigote Butter._
Proceed as in the last, only substituting one spoonful of chopped
Tarragon, and one of chopped chervils for the two of parsley, and adding
half a spoonful of Chili vinegar.
SAUCES AND GARNITURES OF VEGETABLES.
No. 81. _Purée de Choux de Bruxelles._
Trim and boil about thirty heads of Brussel sprouts, very green, in two
quarts of water, with which you have put a quarter of a handful of salt;
when done, drain them and chop them very fine; then put an onion in a
stewpan, in slices, with two ounces of butter, three sprigs of parsley,
and an ounce of raw ham; stir them ten minutes over the fire, then add
the chopped Brussel sprouts, and half a tablespoonful of flour; mix all
well together, then add half a pint of white veal stock (No. 7), and
half a pint of milk; stir it until it boils, then add a teaspoonful of
powdered sugar; rub it through a tammie, and serve where directed.
Season with a little pepper and salt, if required. It must not be too
thick.
No. 82. _Sauce aux Choux de Bruxelles._
Trim about thirty small Brussel sprouts; have ready in a stewpan three
quarts of boiling water, into which you have put a tablespoonful of
salt; put in the sprouts, let them boil twenty minutes, then press them
with your finger; if they are soft they are done, but be careful not to
break them; lay them upon a sieve to drain, then put ten spoonfuls of
Bechamel sauce (No. 7), into a stewpan, with six of boiled milk; let it
reduce a few minutes, then add the sprouts, two ounces of fresh butter,
a salt-spoonful of salt, half a one of white pepper, half a teaspoonful
of sugar, one of chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon; keep
them moving over the fire until the butter is quite melted, and serve
where directed.
No. 83. _Aux Haricots verts._
Cut about fifty middling sized French beans into diamonds, and boil them
very green in salt and water; when done, drain them upon a sieve; then
put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with two of
white broth (No. 133), one ounce of fresh butter, a salt-spoonful of
salt, half a one of white pepper, one of chopped parsley, and the juice
of half a lemon; then add the French beans; mix all well together
without breaking the beans; when quite hot, stir in two tablespoonfuls
of liaison (No. 119), and serve.
No. 84. _Petit Pois à l’Anglaise._
Put a pint of young peas, boiled very green, into a stewpan, with three
tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), a quarter of an ounce of
sugar, a little salt, and two button onions, with parsley, tied
together; boil them ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No.
119), stir it in quickly, and serve.
No. 85. _Petit Pois au Lard._
Pot a pint of well-boiled peas into a stewpan, with five do. of brown
sauce (No. 1), two of brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar, two button
onions, and a bunch of parsley; let it boil about ten minutes; have
ready braised about a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice about a
quarter of an inch square; add it to the peas, take out the onions and
parsley, season with an ounce of butter, and half a teaspoonful of
sugar; mix well together, stew twenty minutes, and serve.
No. 86. _Purée de Pois vert._
Put a pint of raw peas into a stewpan, with six button onions, a bunch
of parsley, an ounce of lean ham, and one do. of butter; cover the peas
with cold water, mix well together with your hands, throw all the water
away, put them over a quick fire; when quite tender, add a half
tablespoonful of flour; mix well, pound it in the mortar, put it back in
the stewpan; add twelve tablespoonfuls of broth (No. 133), season with a
salt-spoon of salt, do. of sugar, rub it through a tammie, warm again,
add a little cream or milk to give it a proper thickness, and serve.
No. 87. _A la Palestine._
Peel ten Jerusalem artichokes, scoop them with a cutter the size of a
small marble, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and a
quarter of a spoonful of sugar; set them over a moderate fire, toss them
over until they are covered with a glaze, then add eighteen
tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and eight do. of white broth
(No. 133); boil gently, and skim well; season with a small quantity of
salt; when the artichokes are quite tender, but not broken, add two
tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), stir quickly, and serve.
No. 88. _Palestine à la Bourgeoise._
Prepare and cut the artichokes as above; put an ounce of butter, and a
quarter do. of sugar into a stewpan with the artichokes, and pass them
over a moderate fire, until they are covered with a white glaze; then
add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix it well,) and twelve do. of white
broth; let it simmer gently until they are quite tender, season with a
little salt and two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), stir it in
quickly, and serve.
No. 89. _Palestine au Maigre._
Cut the artichokes as above (No. 87), pass them in a stewpan with an
ounce of butter, and half ditto of sugar, over a moderate fire until
they are covered with a white glaze; then add a tablespoonful of flour,
and sixteen ditto of boiled milk; let it simmer gently until the
artichokes are quite tender, season with a little salt and white pepper;
to finish add an ounce of fresh butter, and two tablespoonfuls of
liaison, stir it quickly and serve.
If you have not a round scooper any shape will do; but round is
preferable, as it is a very tender vegetable, and they are not so liable
to break.
No. 90. _Purée d’Artichaut._
Peel, wash, and dry, on a cloth, ten artichokes, which cut in very thin
slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a
small bunch of parsley, one bay-leaf, a teaspoonful of salt, a little
white pepper, three quarters of a teaspoonful of sugar, and two ditto of
broth; cut an ounce of lean ham in dice, set the whole over a slow fire,
let it simmer gently for half an hour, when very tender add sixteen
tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7); boil it twenty minutes, pass
it through a tammie, into a clean stewpan, and before serving add three
tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119). This sauce requires to be rather
thick.
No. 91. _Purée à la Palestine maigre._
Prepare and stew the artichokes precisely as before; when quite tender
add one tablespoonful of flour, and eighteen of ditto of boiling milk;
let it boil twenty minutes, rub it through a tammie into a clean
stewpan, add a little cream before serving.
No. 92. _Navets Vierges._
Peel six large turnips, scoop them the size of a marble, put one ounce
of butter into a stewpan with a quarter of an ounce of sugar, and the
turnips, pass them over a moderate fire about twenty minutes, toss them
over, when covered with a white glaze add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel
sauce, and four ditto of broth (No. 133), season with a salt-spoonful of
salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, finish with two tablespoonfuls of
cream. This sauce must not be too thin.
No. 93. _Ragout de Navets à brun._
Scoop the same quantity of turnips as above (No. 92), put a quarter of
an ounce of sugar into a stewpan, set it on the fire until it becomes
rather brown, then add an ounce of butter, and the turnips, pass them
until they are a yellow brown; then add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown
sauce (No. 1), four ditto of broth (No. 133), or brown gravy (No. 135),
and a bunch of parsley, with one bay-leaf; add a little salt and pepper,
skim well and serve.
No. 94. _Purée de Navets à blanc._
Peel and cut six small turnips in thin slices, put them into a stewpan
with two ounces of butter, a quarter of a spoonful of white sugar, one
onion minced, and a bunch of parsley; stir them over a moderate fire
until nearly tender, add eighteen tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No.
7), let it boil twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie, put it into a
clean stewpan, finish with four tablespoonfuls of cream, and half an
ounce of fresh butter.
No. 95. _Purée de Navets à brun._
Put half an ounce of sugar into a stewpan; let it get rather brown, add
two ounces of butter, have ready peeled and cut in thin slices six
turnips, add them to the butter and sugar, and stir them about until
quite tender; then add eighteen tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1);
boil it about twenty minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it into a
clean stewpan, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of
pepper, and about an ounce of butter.
Observe.--Never let a purée of any kind remain long at the side of the
fire, as it gives it a strong and unpleasant flavour; if not wanted
immediately set it in a bain marie.
No. 96. _Sauce aux Chou-fleurs._
Take two boiled cauliflowers, cut the tops off, so that the flowers will
fall to pieces in sprigs, take them up carefully, put eighteen
tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), into a stewpan with four ditto
of white broth (No. 133), a little salt and white pepper; boil it about
ten minutes, then add the cauliflower and half a teaspoonful of sugar,
toss them about until well mixed, and add two tablespoonfuls of liaison
(No. 119), and serve.
No. 97. _Purée de Chou-fleurs._
Cut off the flower of two heads of cauliflower well boiled, put a
teaspoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with a small piece of
butter, pass them over a moderate fire about five minutes, then put the
cauliflower in and mash them with a wooden spoon, add one tablespoonful
of flour, and ten ditto of white broth (No. 133), let it boil about
fifteen minutes, season with a teaspoonful of sugar, half ditto of salt,
rub it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add a gill of good cream
and serve, if too thick, moisten with a little milk.
No. 98. _Macédoine de Légumes._
Peel four very red carrots, wash them, cut them with a small scooper the
size of a large pea, the outside or red part of the carrot only; when
ready, put them into a stewpan of boiling water, let them simmer about a
quarter of an hour, then put them on a sieve to drain; peel and scoop
the same size six turnips, and twenty button onions, put a teaspoonful
of sugar into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and the turnips and
onions, pass them over a moderate fire about five minutes, then add the
carrots, set them again over the fire until they are covered with a
white glaze, add ten tablespoonfuls of white broth (No. 133), let them
boil about ten minutes, take off all the butter and scum, then add ten
tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), let it reduce until rather
thick, season with a little salt if required; and five minutes before
serving add three tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119), a few French
beans, peas, asparagus, Brussels sprouts, or any green vegetable in
season.
No. 99. _Macédoine de Légumes, brown._
Prepare the vegetables and season exactly like the above, using brown
sauce instead of white, and omitting the liaison. The two last sauces
require to be reduced until the sauce adheres to the vegetables, but not
too thick.
No. 100. _Jardinière._
Peel four carrots, cut them lengthwise in slices a quarter of an inch
thick, have ready a small long round cutter, cut as many pieces as
possible out of each slice, boil them in water a quarter of an hour;
peel and cut some turnips exactly the same; peel twenty button onions,
put a teaspoonful of sugar into a stewpan with an ounce of butter and
the turnips and onions; drain the carrots on a sieve and add them; toss
the whole over a moderate fire about ten minutes, then put ten
tablespoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), to the vegetables, let them simmer
until quite tender, reduce and skim them well, then put twelve
tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), into another stewpan with six
ditto of consommé, reduce until rather thick, then add the vegetables,
two spoonfuls of green peas, one ditto of French beans, a few small
pieces of cauliflower, and a few heads of asparagus; let the whole
simmer twelve or thirteen minutes; season with a little salt and sugar
if required; just before serving put in an ounce of butter, toss it
about until melted; a bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, is a great
addition to the flavour if stewed with them.
No. 101. _Pointes d’Asperges en petits-pois._
Get some fresh sprue grass, cut it about a quarter of an inch long, the
green part only where it will break off, have ready a stewpan of boiling
water with salt in, throw in the sprue and let it boil very fast until
tender, which will be a quarter of an hour, or according to the size;
then put them on a sieve to drain, put eight tablespoonfuls of the sprue
into a stewpan with ten ditto of bechamel sauce (No. 7), a little
consommé, half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt, and a small
quantity of chopped parsley; let it simmer five minutes; to finish add a
pat of butter and two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119).
No. 102. _Purée d’Asperges._
Put twelve spoonfuls of sprue (boiled as No. 101), into a stewpan with
two ounces of butter; stir it over a moderate fire until it is mashed,
then add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix it well, add eleven
spoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), and ten ditto of broth (No. 135),
half a teaspoonful of sugar, a quarter ditto of salt, let it boil five
minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan; before
serving add a pat of butter. When wanted warm it quickly or it will turn
yellow; if too thick moisten with a little milk.
No. 103. _Concombres à blanc._
Get three best quality fresh cucumbers, cut them in pieces about two
inches long, peel each separately, then cut the outside in three slices
(or four, if large), leaving the seeds in one piece in the middle, trim
off all the edges neatly; put half a tablespoonful of sugar into a
stewpan with an ounce of butter, a little chopped eschalots, and the
cucumber, pass them over a moderate fire ten minutes without breaking,
and keep them quite white, then add a little white broth (No. 133), just
enough to cover them, let them simmer until tender, then lay them, with
a colander spoon, on a sieve to drain; put twelve tablespoonfuls of
bechamel sauce (No. 7) into the stewpan with six of white broth, skim
off all the butter, let it reduce until rather thick; season it with a
quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and half a gill of
cream; when ready to serve add the cucumbers.
No. 104. _Concombres à brun._
Prepare and stew the cucumbers exactly the same, only brown them
slightly, reducing the same quantity of demi-glace (No. 9) instead of
the white sauce.
No. 105. _Purée de Concombres._
Cut the cucumbers in pieces and stew them as above (No. 103), put all
the trimmings, and some of the worst-shaped pieces into a stewpan with
an ounce of butter and half a spoonful of chopped onions, pass them over
a moderate fire twelve minutes, add three tablespoonfuls of veal stock
(No. 7), and let them simmer until quite tender; then put a
tablespoonful of flour, mix it well, add four more of stock, and six
ditto of bechamel sauce (No. 7), season with half a teaspoonful of
sugar, a quarter ditto of salt, and a little pepper, rub it through a
tammie. When wanted, warm it very quickly, and add half a gill of cream;
put the pieces into the purée and serve; it must not be too thick.
No. 106. _Epinard au Jus._
Pick all the stalks off and wash the spinach very dean in several
waters, have ready a large stewpan of boiling water, in which you have
put a handful of salt, put in the spinach, and let it boil as quickly as
possible about twenty minutes; when quite tender put it into a colander
and press the water out until there is none remaining, then chop it very
fine; put one pound of spinach into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound
of butter, stir it with a wooden spoon over a moderate fire until the
butter is melted; then add a little flour, eight tablespoonfuls of brown
sauce (No. 1), half a teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of sugar, a little
white pepper, and very small quantity of grated nutmeg; a little glaze
may be added; finish with two ounces of fresh butter.
No. 107. _Blanched Mushrooms._
Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms, cut off the dirt and like-wise the
heads (reserving the stalk for chopping), wash the heads in a basin of
clean water, take them out and drain in a sieve; put into a stewpan two
wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter, the juice of half a
good lemon, and a little salt; turn or peel each head neatly, and put
them into the stewpan immediately, or they will turn black; set your
stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five minutes, put them
into a basin ready for use; chop the stalks and peel very fine, put them
into a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms
have been boiled in; let them simmer three minutes, put them into a jar,
and use where indicated.
Observe.--Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that practice alone can
attain; if they are very fresh and white wash them quickly, and wipe
them on a cloth, throw them into the liquid above mentioned.
No. 108. _Purée d’Oseille._
Put into a stewpan four good handfuls of sorrel (after being well
washed,) with a small piece of butter, put on the cover and set it over
a moderate fire without water, until melted; then put it on a sieve, and
rub it all through; put half a tablespoonful of very fine chopped
onions, and two ounces of butter into a stewpan, pass them over a quick
fire two or three minutes, add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well
together, add the sorrel and ten tablespoonfuls of broth (No. 133), half
a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt and white pepper; let it boil
fifteen minutes, stir in two yolks of eggs quickly, and it is ready to
serve. Demi-glace (No. 9) is very good instead of broth.
No. 109. _Ragout aux jeunes Racines._
Peel very thin four carrots and four turnips, cut them flat the
thickness of an inch, take a long cutter about three lines diameter, cut
as many as possible, blanch the carrots in boiling water five minutes,
then put them on a sieve to drain; put a tablespoonful of sugar in a
stewpan, set it on the fire until it gets rather brown, then put in an
ounce of butter, and the turnips, toss them over the fire until covered
with a brown glaze, add the carrots, and eighteen tablespoonfuls of
demi-glace (No. 9); let it boil at the corner of the stove until the
vegetables are quite tender, then take them out of the sauce with a
spoon, and lay them on a clean sieve; reduce the sauce until rather
thick, season with a little pepper, pass it through a tammie into a
clean stewpan, add the vegetables carefully, and serve very hot.
No. 110. _Ragout de petits Oignons._
Peel carefully fifty young onions, without breaking them, put half an
ounce of sugar into a stewpan, set it on the fire until it gets rather
brown, add two ounces of butter and the onions, toss them over the fire
until forming a glaze; then add fifteen tablespoonfuls of brown sauce
(No. 1), and eight of consommé (No. 134); let them simmer until tender,
skim well, season with a small quantity of salt and pepper, and use
where indicated; a little piece of glaze may be added.
No. 111. _Ragouts de petits Oignons à blanc._
Peel the same quantity of onions as above, put half an ounce of sugar
with two ounces of butter into a stewpan, and the onions, toss them over
the fire twenty minutes, then add sixteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce
(No. 7), and eight of white broth, let them simmer until quite tender;
put in a bunch of parsley, season with a little salt and pepper, and
finish with two tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119).
No. 112. _Garniture de fond d’Artichauts._
Boil six artichokes in water and salt until quite tender, take the
leaves off and trim the bottom until all the hard part is off and the
artichoke has a round appearance; cut each in four pieces, put them in a
good demi-glace (No. 9), rather thick, for ten minutes; add a little
sugar, two pats of butter, and serve.
No. 113. _Garniture de Haricot blanc nouveau._
Put half a pint of white haricot into a stewpan with a pint of cold
water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and an ounce of butter; let it simmer
gently about one hour, or until quite tender, then put them on a sieve
to drain; have ready a clean stewpan, put in the haricot with three
tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), a little chopped parsley, and
salt, three pats of butter, and the juice of half a lemon, mix well
together and serve where indicated.
No. 114. _Gros Oignons farcis._
Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the top and bottom to give
them a flat appearance, blanch them in four quarts of boiling water
twenty minutes, then lay them on a cloth to dry; take the middle out of
each onion, and fill them with forcemeat (No. 120), (with a little
chopped eschalot, parsley, and mushroom, mixed in it), and put them in a
sauté pan well buttered, cover them with white broth (No. 133), let them
simmer over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender; turn
them over and serve where required.
No. 115. _Stewed Cabbage Lettuce._
Get twelve cabbage lettuces, as hard and full as possible; take off the
outside leaves and wash them well; put them into a stewpan with four
quarts of boiling water, and let them boil about twelve minutes,--this
process is to take the bitterness off,--lay them on a cloth to dry, cut
each lettuce open and season with salt and pepper, close them again, and
tie them separately with a string, put a few cloves in an onion, put it
in a stewpan with a few vegetables of all kinds, a bunch of parsley, and
a few slices of fat bacon on the top, lay the lettuce in and cover with
some very good veal stock (No. 7); put them over a slow fire about an
hour, take them carefully out and cut the string, lay the heart upwards,
dress them on a dish to form a star, or if they are small do not cut
than open. Use for garniture where directed.
No. 116. _Chou braisé and Chou-croute._
Cut two large savoy cabbages in quarters, which trim and wash well, then
blanch them twenty minutes in boiling water, then lay them upon a cloth,
season them well, and stew them as directed in the last, use where
indicated.
_Chou-croute._ Take three or four pounds, not too sour, and put it into
a stewpan, with some slices of fat bacon, six onions cut in halves,
three cloves, a blade of mace, half a carrot, half a turnip, four
bay-leaves, and a few sprigs of thyme and parsley (laying the vegetables
at the bottom and the chou-crout over them, which cover with fat bacon;)
add a pint and a half of good stock, and stew it gently for two hours;
when ready to serve press them at the rim of the stewpan with a colander
spoon, and pour off as much of the grease as possible, it is then ready
for use where directed. Chou-croute is generally sufficiently seasoned
in the barrel, but it may perhaps require a little more pepper and salt.
No. 117. _Stewed Celery for Garniture and Celery Sauce._
Procure twelve very fine heads of red celery, take off the loose
branches, and cut the celery into heads five inches in length, blanch
them twenty minutes in a stewpan of boiling water, then put them upon a
sieve to drain, stew them precisely as directed for the lettuce (No.
115); but before stewing if the heads are too large split them in
halves; use where directed. To make celery sauce, or purée of celery,
blanch twelve heads of fine white celery in boiling water until tender,
then drain them upon a sieve, cut off the roots, chop, and put the
celery into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, stir it five
minutes over a fire, then stir in one ounce of flour, add a pint of milk
and half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), boil altogether ten minutes,
season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a
whole one of powdered sugar; then pass it through a tammie, put it into
another stewpan, and make it hot when ready to serve.
No. 118. _Choux-fleurs for Garnitures._
Take four heads of cauliflower, cut each in four pieces, trimming the
stalks to give them a neat appearance; put half a gallon of water into
a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, and a tablespoonful of salt, when
boiling, put in the cauliflowers to simmer about twenty minutes; when
done, let them remain in their stock until wanted.
No. 119. _Chicorée, or Endive Sauce._
Well wash six heads of very white endive, blanch them in boiling water
until tender, then drain them upon a sieve, after which chop them very
fine, then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, with a
tablespoonful of flour, mix well together, then add the endive, ten
spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), a piece of white glaze the size of a
walnut, a little nutmeg, salt, and sugar; place it upon the fire, and
when quite hot finish with half a gill of cream, and use where directed.
* * * * *
[_Liaison._ Break the yolks of three eggs in a basin, with which mix
eight tablespoonfuls of cream or six of milk, pass it through a tammie
and use where directed.]
APPENDIX TO THE SAUCES.
No. 120. _Forcemeat of Veal._
Take a pound and a half of lean veal, scrape, pound, and pass it through
a fine wire sieve, when passed there should be one pound of meat; then
take one pound of beef suet, which shred and chop very fine, put it into
a mortar and pound it well, then add six ounces of panade (No. 125),
with the suet, pound them well together; then add the veal, season with
a little pepper, salt, and a very little grated nutmeg, mix the whole
well together; then add three eggs by degrees, then the yolks of three
more eggs when well mixed, whisk the whites of the three eggs to a very
stiff froth, add to the forcemeat, mix them well in, and it is ready to
use where directed. To form this or the following forcemeats into large
quenelles, have two silver tablespoons, fill one of them with the
forcemeat, dip your knife in hot water with which smooth it over, then
dip the other spoon into boiling water, and with it remove the forcemeat
from the first spoon and slip it from that into a buttered sauté pan,
proceeding thus until you have as many as you require; then cover them
with some second stock, and boil them about ten minutes, or until firm,
and they are ready for use. Small quenelles are made in the same manner,
only using teaspoons instead of tablespoons.
No. 121. _Forcemeat of Rabbits._
Take the flesh of one or two young rabbits, according to the size, well
pound and pass it through a wire sieve; then have ready boiled and cold
a good veal udder, skin and pound it well, to a pound of the udder add
six ounces of panada (No. 125), and one pound of the flesh of the
rabbits; mix the same as the last, adding an eschalot finely chopped, to
the seasoning, using three whole and three yolks of eggs, but omitting
the whisked whites.
No. 122. _Forcemeat of Fowl._
The best forcemeat is made entirely from the breasts of fowls, but
should you have no use for the other parts the whole may be used. Take
the flesh from your fowl as much as you require, pound it well and pass
it through a fine wire sieve, form the flesh into a ball, then have a
piece of panada (No. 125), half the size of the ball of meat, scrape
some fat bacon, one ounce, in proportion to the pound of meat, and two
ounces of fresh butter, put the butter, bacon, and panada, into the
mortar together, pound them well, then add the meat, mix all well
together, season lightly, and add four whole eggs, mixing them one at a
time, then drop a piece of the forcemeat into a little boiling stock,
to poach; if too tender, add the yolks of one or even two more eggs; but
if, on the contrary, it should be too firm, a little white sauce (No.
7), added cold will rectify it; it is then ready for use.
In giving the last three receipts I have introduced a different method
for each description of meat, although the same meat might be made into
forcemeat by either process; for myself I give the preference to the
former as directed for veal.
No. 123. _Forcemeat of Game._
Proceed as in the last, only substituting the flesh of one or two birds
for the fowl there directed.
No. 124. _Forcemeat of Whitings._
Take the fillets of three whitings, take off all the skin and pound them
well, then take them from the mortar, and form them into a ball, have a
piece of panada (No. 125) one third the size of the ball, put the panada
into the mortar, pound it well, then add two ounces of fresh butter,
which mix well with the panada, then add the fish, season with pepper,
salt, and a little grated nutmeg; mix all well together, then add by
degrees three whole eggs and the yolks of two, try it in a little
boiling water as directed for the forcemeat of fowl (No. 122), but if
too firm use a little melted butter, as these are served generally as a
meagre dish with a fish sauce, in Catholic families.
No. 125. _Panada for forcemeats._
Put two thirds of half a pint of water into a stewpan holding a quart
with nearly an ounce of butter, when boiling, stir in a quarter of a
pound of flour; keep it moving over the fire until it forms a smooth and
toughish paste, take it out of the stewpan and when cold use it where
directed.
No. 126. _Forcemeat of Cod’s Liver._
Chop half a pound of cod’s liver, with which mix a few bread crumbs and
the yolks of three eggs, season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped
parsley, form it into quenelles as No. 120, which use where directed.
No. 127. _Veal Stuffing._
Chop three quarters of a pound of beef suet very fine, which put into a
basin with six ounces of bread crumbs, a little chopped parsley, thyme,
and marjoram, with a bay-leaf mixed, when chopped, being sufficient to
fill three large tablespoons; amalgamate the whole with the yolks of
three and three whole eggs; this is likewise used to stuff baked fish or
turkeys as well as veal.
No. 128. _To prepare Cockscombs._
If you should have them in the rough as taken from the fowls, put them
in lukewarm water for three hours, then have some water boiling in a
stewpan, into which throw them for one minute, then take them out, put
them upon a rubber with a handful of salt, and rub them well until all
the skin comes off, then put them into a basin of cold water for two or
three hours, until they become quite white; by cutting off the tips of
each they will disgorge much better; then (if about a pound of them) put
them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, an onion in
slices, a little pepper and salt, place them over a fire one minute,
then add the juice of a lemon; stew them gently until quite tender, put
them by in a basin and use where directed.
No. 129. _To boil Rice._
Wash well in two separate waters a pound of the best Carolina rice; then
have half a gallon of water boiling in a stewpan, into which throw your
rice; boil it until about three parts done, then drain it upon a sieve,
butter the interior of a stewpan in which put your rice, place the lid
on tight and put it in a warm oven upon a trivet until the rice is
perfectly tender; serve it separate with currie or any other dish where
directed. Prepared thus, every grain will be separate and quite white.
No. 130. _To blanch Maccaroni._
Have half a gallon of water in a stewpan in which put two ounces of
butter and an ounce of salt; when boiling throw in a pound of maccaroni,
which boil until tender, being careful that it is not too much done, the
time of boiling depends principally upon the quality, the Genoa
maccaroni taking the longest time, and the Neapolitan the shortest,
which last if too much done will fall in purée.
No. 131. _Croquettes de Pomme de Terre._
Roast twelve fine potatoes; when done, take out the interior, which form
into a ball; when cold put them into a mortar with a piece of butter
half the size of the ball; pound them well together, season with a
little salt, pepper, chopped eschalots, chopped parsley, and grated
nutmeg, mix them with the yolks of six and two whole eggs; then form
them into croquettes about the size and shape of a large quenelle egg,
and bread-crumb them twice over, and fry them to a light brown colour in
a stewpan of hot lard, and serve as garniture where required.
No. 132. _Glaze._
Make a good stock of veal or beef as directed for consommé (No. 134),
put the first and second stocks together in a large stewpan, the clearer
the stock the better; reduce it by boiling it fast, and when becoming
rather thick pour it into a smaller stewpan, stir it over a sharp fire
until it has reduced to a proper consistency; use it where required. It
may be put by in a bladder and kept a long time. Veal at all times makes
the best glaze, but any kind of meat, game, or poultry, will produce
more or less.
POTAGES OR SOUPS.
No. 133. _Clear light Broth, or first Stock._
Cut up sixteen pounds of the trimmings of veal, beef, lamb, or mutton,
any kind of meat will do for this stock, as it is entirely used for
filling up other stocks, but it is only necessary to be made when you
have a dinner party; cut up the meat with the bones, rub a quarter of a
pound of butter over the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the
meat, with six large onions, two carrots, two turnips, and two heads of
celery; add a quart of water, then place the stewpan over a sharp fire,
cover it, and let it remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered
with a light white glaze, stirring it occasionally to prevent its
burning, then fill it up with seven gallons of cold water, when it boils
place it at the corner, then add a good bunch of parsley, thyme, and
bay-leaves; let it simmer three hours, keeping it well skimmed, pass it
through a cloth and use it where required. I have here omitted salt, for
this stock is only required to fill up others, which correctly describe
their proportions of seasoning.
No. 134. _Consommé, or clear Soup._
This may be made of all beef or all veal, but an equal quantity of each
is the best. Cut up two knuckles of veal and a leg of beef with the
bones, the whole being about sixteen pounds; rub a quarter of a pound of
butter over the bottom of a large stewpan, into which put the meat, with
one pound of lean ham, four onions, four turnips, two middling-sized
carrots, six cloves, one blade of mace, and a pint of water; set it over
a brisk fire, stirring it round occasionally until the bottom is
covered with a clear light glaze, then fill it up with four gallons of
light broth (No. 133), or water; when boiling place it at the corner of
the stove, skim it well, add a good bunch of parsley, three sprigs of
thyme, and two bay-leaves, a quarter of a pound of salt, two leeks, and
two heads of celery; let it simmer three hours, skim off all the fat,
then pass it through a cloth into a basin, give it the colour of light
brown sherry with some brown gravy (No. 135), if sufficiently clear,
which it will be if properly attended to. Some soups require to be
lighter and some browner than others, which is easily regulated by
adding more or less of the gravy. But by placing the stewpan over a slow
fire when the stock is drawn down to a glaze, and allowing it to remain
a short time, the glaze will become brownish, (but be careful not to let
it burn,) then fill it up and your consommé will be sufficiently
coloured.
_But should it require clarifying_, put it into a stewpan and when
boiling have the whites of eight eggs with their shells in another
stewpan, whisk them half a minute, then add a quart of cold stock, whisk
all well together, then whisk the boiling consommé and pour in the
whites of eggs; still continue whisking it over a clear fire until it
simmers and the eggs separate from the consommé, which will be then
quite clear; then pass it through a thin but very fine cloth into a
basin and it is ready for use. This is a new mode of clarifying and
cannot fail.
For the proportions for smaller quantities of consommé, to four pounds
of veal put a quarter of a pound of ham, one ounce of butter, two
onions, half a carrot, a turnip, half a leek, half a head of celery, a
sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, three cloves, six
peppercorns, an ounce and a half of salt and four quarts of water; it
will require an hour and three quarters boiling. Or if you have to
prepare it from beef, veal, and the trimmings of other meats, and
require a larger quantity, take ten pounds of meat, to which add three
onions, half a pound of ham, a carrot, two turnips, a leek, head of
celery, two sprigs of parsley, thyme, and two bay-leaves, six cloves,
six peppercorns, two ounces and a half of salt, a blade of mace, and ten
quarts of water; it will require two hours and a half boiling; trimmings
of rabbit, poultry, or even game, may be added, but not too much game,
especially if at all high. You will here perceive that by increasing the
quantity of stock there is a diminution in the quantity of seasonings
and vegetables, for the larger quantity requiring a longer ebullition,
extracts more flavour from the spices and vegetables; a stock for
consommé by gently simmering will lose a pint and a half to every four
quarts; I must here also observe that by again filling up a stock with
cold water and boiling it the same time over again, you will have an
excellent second stock, a little of which may be added to the first, if
it should have suffered from over reduction, for vegetable soups are not
so palatable when made too strong; the second stock is also very useful
to fill up a first stock, whereby some of the meat otherwise required
can be saved, and if not required for that it may be converted into
glaze by mixing it with other stock and proceeding as directed (No.
132).
No. 135. _Brown Gravy._
Butter the bottom of a thick stewpan, peel six large onions, cut them in
three slices, lay them flat on the bottom of the stewpan which you have
well buttered; take ten pounds of leg of beef, cut the flesh from the
bone in large slices, lay it over the onions with the bones, which must
be well chopped; add six cloves, two blades of mace, two carrots, two
turnips, two leeks, one head of celery, and a tablespoonful of salt; put
it over a brisk fire about ten minutes, shake the stewpan now and then,
and when forming a brown glaze at the bottom, cover the stove with
ashes; set it on again, and let it remain half an hour, until it gets
very brown (but not burning); pour the fat off, which must be very
clear; if not, it is not ready to fill up; fill up with ten quarts of
cold water; when boiling, let it simmer at the corner of the stove two
hours; skim it well, pass it through a cloth, and use it when required.
Should any of the brown sauces, large or small, be too pale, use some of
this gravy instead of consommé, as directed.
No. 136. _Potage à la Victoria._
Cut eight pounds of veal, four pounds of scrag of lamb, and one pound of
lean ham in dice; butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat, with
three onions, two turnips, one carrot, one head of celery, three
bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, and half a pint of broth (No. 7); place
it over a slow fire, stirring it occasionally until the bottom is
covered with a white glaze; then add eight quarts of light broth or
water, and two ounces of salt; when it boils, place it at the corner of
the stove for an hour; have ready peeled and washed four apples, eight
artichokes, and two anchovies; put them in, and let them boil about an
hour; afterwards pass it through a napkin; then put half a pint of pearl
barley into a stewpan with the stock; when the barley has boiled quite
tender mix three tablespoonfuls of arrow-root with a little cold broth,
add it to the barley, pass the whole through a tammie, put it into a
clean stewpan, and let it boil ten minutes; if it is too thick, add
boiled milk to thin it. Season with half a tablespoonful of sugar, skim
it well, have ready thirty cockscombs dressed as No. 128, and half a
handful of picked parsley in small sprigs, and blanched; put the
cockscombs, parsley, and a gill of good cream into the tureen, pour the
soup in, mix well, and serve; the barley must be done sufficiently to
give the soup a light consistency.
No. 137. _Potage à la Louis Philippe._
Make a stock exactly as for the potage à la Victoria, and instead of
mixing barley, put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, with three
ounces of flour; stir it over a moderate fire about ten minutes, then
let it cool; add the whole of the stock, stirring it all the time, until
it boils; then put six tablespoonfuls of semolina into it, let it simmer
at the corner of the stove until it is quite tender, rub it through a
tammie, boil it again; have ready scooped with a small cutter about
eighty pieces of turnips, put them into a stewpan with one ounce of
butter and a teaspoonful of pounded sugar, pass them over a moderate
fire until half done, then throw them into the soup, and let them simmer
until quite tender; season with a little salt, and when you serve it,
put a gill of cream into the stewpan, mix well, and serve immediately;
strew a little chopped chervil, and about sixty heads of sprue grass in
the tureen, or, if in season, add thirty small Brussels sprouts, boiled
very green.
No. 138. _Potage à la Prince of Wales._
Cut up twelve pounds of veal with the bones, two pounds of ham, two
calves’ feet, with a few pieces of trimmings of game or poultry (if any,
if not add two pounds more veal), butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in
the meat with six Jerusalem artichokes, two turnips, two onions, four
leeks, one head of celery, and a bouquet garni; put about a pint of
broth (No. 133) into the stewpan, place it over a brisk fire, stirring
it every five minutes until the bottom is covered with white glaze, then
add about ten quarts of light broth (No. 133), let it boil an hour, add
five middle-sized apples, peeled and cored, with four anchovies, well
washed; let it simmer an hour and a half longer, skim it well, pass it
through a napkin, and clarify as No. 134; cut eight small long fillets
off the breast of a braised fowl, cover them all over with forcemeat
(No. 122), have ready a paste-brush dipped in whites of eggs, smooth
them over with it, lay them in a sauté-pan, cover them with white broth
as No. 133; they must simmer gently about ten minutes. Make a custard
thus: get a set of fresh lamb’s brains, wash them well, put an ounce of
butter into a sauté-pan, cut the brains in thin slices, and lay them in,
seasoned with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice;
place them over a moderate fire until they become rather firm; put them
by until quite cold, then break six eggs into a basin; beat them well,
mix four spoonfuls of good broth, and a little pepper and salt with the
eggs; pass it through a tammie into another basin, then mix a
teaspoonful of chopped parsley with it; put some into a flat-bottomed
mould about half an inch thick; steam it about two minutes; take it out,
put a layer of brains upon the custard, and pour the remainder of the
custard over; let it steam very quickly about half an hour, take it out,
let it get rather cool, then cut your pieces of fowl and custard into
middling sized pieces, diamond-shaped, about half an inch thick; have
asparagus points cut and boiled in salt and water; put the asparagus,
fowl, and custard into the tureen, and pour the stock very gently over,
previously adding a teaspoonful of sugar. This potage, though
complicated, is very easily made with a little practice; it is entirely
new, very stomachic and wholesome. It must be of the colour of light
sherry.
No. 139. _Potage à la Comte de Paris._
Cut in large dice six pounds of veal, six do. of leg of beef, two pounds
of lean ham, highly flavoured, two calves’ feet, two heads of white
celery, four onions, one carrot, two turnips, three cloves, two blades
of mace, and a handful of fresh parsley; put three tablespoonfuls of
good salad oil into a stewpan, add the whole of the ingredients, place
it over a quick fire, stir it ten minutes with a wooden spoon; then add
half a pint of broth (No. 133); when the bottom is nearly dry, add ten
quarts of broth, as before; when it boils, place it at the corner of the
stove; skim as usual, add a tablespoonful of salt; have ready peeled and
washed twelve Jerusalem artichokes, and six middle-sized apples cut in
quarters, and the core taken out, which may be added when it has boiled
an hour and a half; let it remain half an hour longer, then pass the
stock through a napkin into a clean stewpan, replace it on the stove and
clarify as No. 134. The acidity of the apples will assist the
clarification of the stock and give it the brightness of sherry. Take a
spring chicken braised as No. 523, cut it in ten pieces, cover each
piece all over lightly with forcemeat (No. 120), butter a sauté-pan, lay
them in it, have ready a paste brush dipped in whites of eggs, smooth
each piece over with it, cover them with white broth (No. 133), and let
them remain simmering gently about a quarter of an hour, take them out
of the broth and lay them on a cloth, have ready a little riband
maccaroni blanched in salt and water, drain it upon a sieve, put it into
the soup and let it boil a few minutes, put the pieces of fowl into the
tureen, pour the soup over, (with the maccaroni in it), and serve. This
soup requires to be of the colour of pale sherry.
No. 140. _Potage à la Princesse Royale._
Take all the meat off a roast fowl, pound it well in the mortar, put the
bones to boil half an hour in three quarts of boiling stock (No. 7),
peel six good cucumbers, cut them in slices; when this is prepared, put
into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of butter, two onions sliced, half
a pound of lean ham, two bay-leaves, one branch of basil, and the
cucumbers; place the whole over a brisk fire, pass them, five minutes,
add one pint of broth, let it simmer half an hour, then add the pounded
fowl, two ounces of flour, and four spoonfuls of sago, mix the whole
well with a wooden spoon, and pour the broth over it; let it boil about
twenty minutes, then rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean
stewpan and stir it over the fire until it boils; be careful it is not
too thick, put into it a quart of boiling milk, and skim directly, add a
good spoonful of sugar and as much salt as required; put twenty pieces
of cucumber, as No. 103, into the tureen, half a pint of green peas
nicely boiled, and half a gill of good cream, pour the soup over, mix
well, and serve. This soup must not be too thick; in fact it is much
better for all thick soups to be too thin than too thick, but to be
correct dip a wooden spoon into it when quite hot and it should very
lightly adhere to it.
No. 141. _Potage à la Saxe Cobourg._
Put half a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, half a pound of lean
ham, and a large onion sliced very thin, pass it ten minutes over a slow
fire; have ready, previously boiled, one hundred small Brussels sprouts,
press the water from them, chop them fine, add them to the onions and
butter, pass them five minutes over a brisk fire, add two tablespoonfuls
of flour, mix well, add four quarts of good stock (No. 134), and a pint
of boiled milk; boil it quickly ten minutes, stirring it all the time,
season with a teaspoonful of sugar, a little pepper and salt, and pass
it through a tammie a quarter of an hour before serving; boil and skim
well, it must not be thicker than green pea-soup; put some croutons in
the tureen, with twenty very small _quenelles de volaille_ (No. 120),
and serve.
No. 142. _Potage à la Comtesse._
Cut half a pound of lean ham, with one onion, in small dice, have a
bouquet garni, and six ounces of butter; put the whole into a stewpan
over a moderate fire, stirring it about ten minutes; then cut five or
six throat sweetbreads in slices (which have been previously blanched in
water), put them into the stewpan and add a pint of white broth; let it
simmer nearly half an hour, add four tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well,
pound it in a mortar, put it into the stewpan again, with about four
quarts of veal stock (No. 7), set it over a brisk fire until it boils,
season with a teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, and a little
white pepper; rub it through a tammie; when you serve it add a gill of
cream, and croutons, cut like sixpences, and fried in half butter and
half oil. If too thick moisten it with more stock to make it of the
consistency of a purée.
No. 143. _Potage à la Gresham._
Cut two knuckles of veal and two pounds of ham in dice, butter the
bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat, with three onions, one carrot, two
turnips, two heads of celery, one leek, a bunch of parsley, thyme,
bay-leaves, basil, marjoram, and a pint of white broth (No. 133); let it
simmer over a moderate fire about twenty minutes, then add twelve quarts
more broth; when it boils have ready half a calf’s head which has been
scalded; put it into the stewpan and let it simmer two hours and a half,
when done put it on a dish to cool; pass the stock through a cloth into
a clean stewpan, and place it over the fire; then mix half a pound of
arrow-root, with three glasses of Madeira, and half a pint of cold
broth; when the stock boils add the arrow-root, stirring it all the
time, (skim it well), about twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie;
before serving cut about twenty pieces of the calf’s head, (free from
any fat), in large dice about an inch and a half square; put them in the
tureen and pour the soup over. Add a little salt and sugar if required;
this soup is very delicate, but better made too thin than too thick.
No. 144. _Potage à la Colbert._
Peel and wash about a dozen Jerusalem artichokes, cut them in slices
about a quarter of an inch thick, lay them flat upon the table and cut
them through with a cutter about the size of a large pea, wash two heads
of celery well, cut them round like sixpences, peel fifty small button
onions, and pass the whole in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a
teaspoonful of sugar until no liquor remains with the vegetables and
they are covered with a glaze, keeping them quite white; if any liquor
remains in your vegetables it will spoil the appearance of the soup; put
them into a clean stewpan with four quarts of consommé (No. 134), and
half a pint of gravy (No. 135), let it simmer at the corner of the stove
about ten minutes, taking care to skim it well, cut about forty pieces
of cos lettuce the size of half-a-crown, which boil till done, cut
twenty pieces of thin crust of French bread about the size of a
shilling, which must be put into the tureen and the soup poured over.
No. 145. _Potage à la Clermont._
Peel and cut thirty button onions into rings, fry them yellow in butter,
cut also about sixty pieces of carrots, the size of a sixpenny piece,
boil them in stock until nearly done, then put them on a sieve to drain,
put four quarts of consommé (No. 134), and a gill of brown gravy (No.
135), into a stewpan with two ounces of semolina, when boiling add the
carrots and onions; let it simmer twenty minutes, add a little pickled
chervil, cut a small spring chicken in pieces, which has been previously
braised (No. 523), put it into the soup a few minutes previous to
serving, and a tablespoonful of sugar, add a little more seasoning if
required.
No. 146. _Potage Macédoine de Légumes._
Cut an equal quantity of carrots, turnips, celery, and Jerusalem
artichokes with a scoop cutter, as large again as a pea, pass them in
sugar and butter, with about a dozen button onions; have ready four
quarts of consommé (No. 134), put the vegetables into it, let it boil at
the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, add half a cabbage lettuce
cut small, ten leaves of sorrel, a few leaves of tarragon and chervil
(skim it well), add a little salt if required; serve a few green peas,
or asparagus boiled very green, in the tureen with the soup; give it a
beautiful colour with a little brown gravy (No. 135) if required.
No. 147. _Potage à la Jardinière._
Have ready the consommé clarified as previously, cut carrots, turnips,
and celery, in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, cut them through
with a long cutter, add ten button onions, pass them in sugar and butter
as usual, put them into four quarts of clarified consommé, let it simmer
at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, or until the vegetables
are done, skim it well, add a small quantity of picked tarragon,
chervil, and a few white leaves of a cos lettuce; season with a little
salt if required; when done and ready to serve put into the tureen a few
French beans, peas, cauliflower, or Brussels sprouts according to the
season.
No. 148. _Potage à la Julienne._
Prepare and clean three carrots, three turnips, two onions, two leeks,
and one head of celery, wash them all well, cut the carrots an inch in
breadth in thin slices, cut them again across into small thin stripe, if
the carrots are old the red part only must be used and peeled off like
ribands, as fine and regular as possible; all the vegetables must be cut
in the same way; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, when
it is melted, put in the onions and fry them about three minutes, then
add the remainder of the vegetables, and pass them quickly with a
tablespoonful of sugar, toss them over every minute, when there is no
water remaining at the bottom add to them four quarts of clarified
consommé, let it boil gently at the corner of the stove about twenty
minutes, skim well, add six sorrel leaves, one cabbage lettuce, and a
little picked chervil, the lettuce and sorrel must be cut in dice, serve
very hot. If not sufficiently coloured add half a pint of gravy (No.
135).
No. 149. _Potage aux petits Navets à brun._
Feel ten fresh turnips, scoop as many as possible out of them with a
small cutter, the size of a marble; put a teaspoonful of sugar into a
stewpan, when it gets rather brown over the fire, put in about two
ounces of butter with the turnips, toss them over the fire until they
get a nice yellow colour; have ready nearly boiling four quarts of
consommé (No. 134), and half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135), put them
into it, let it simmer about twenty minutes, or until the turnips are
tender, taking care to skim it well, season with a little salt and sugar
if required; the consommé must be a little browner than usual.
No. 150. _Potage à la Printanière._
Cut a bunch of spring carrots, ditto of turnips, ditto of green spring
onions, in thick pieces, splitting the carrots in four, and about half
an inch in length, wash them well, dry on a cloth, put them into a
stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass them
ten minutes over a sharp fire, have ready four quarts of consommé (No.
134), nearly boiling, put in the vegetables and let it boil at the
corner of the stove fifteen minutes, skim it well, add a very little
chervil and half a pint of young peas, raw, when the peas are tender it
is done; put a few French beans, cut in diamonds, into the tureen, and
serve.
No. 151. _Potage à la Jérusalem._
Have ready two dozen artichokes peeled and washed, scoop them with a
cutter, the size of a marble, pass them with butter and sugar over a
moderate fire until they are quite dry, put them into four quarts of
clarified consommé (No. 134), and let them simmer until tender, skim it
well, season with a little salt and sugar if required; a little brown
gravy (No. 135), may be added.
No. 152. _Potage à la Marcus Hill._
Butter the bottom of a stewpan, take three or four pounds of the knuckle
of veal, and half a pound of lean ham in dice, (in case you have no
veal, beef or mutton may be used instead;) add two onions, three
carrots, two turnips, and half a pint of broth (No. 133), let it simmer
on a brisk fire, stir it very often, when it forms a thick jelly at the
bottom fill it up with a gallon of broth or water; it must simmer on the
corner of the stove an hour, taking care to skim it well until reduced
to three quarts, which will be sufficient for ten or twelve persons.
Make a _Chiffonade_ as follows:--Cut up four cabbage lettuces, one cos
ditto, a handful of sorrel, a little chervil, and tarragon, with two
cucumbers finely sliced, the whole being well washed and drained on a
colander; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and the chiffonade over
it, place it over a brisk fire until very little liquid remains; add to
it two tablespoonfuls of flour, mixing it with the vegetables and
stirring it well. Pour the stock over, adding a quart of young fresh
peas, skim it well; half an hour’s ebullition will suffice for this
delicious soup, and the flavour of the vegetables will be fully
preserved; season with a teaspoonful of salt and two of sugar.
No. 153. _Potage aux pointes d’Asperges et Œufs pochés._
Poach ten new laid eggs in saltwater and vinegar, rather hard, trim
them, put them into the tureen, with half a pint of sprue grass, put
three quarts of clarified consommé (No. 134) to boil; put into it for
three minutes a fowl just roasted; when you take it out add twelve
leaves of tarragon, skim it well, season with a little salt and sugar,
pour it gently over the eggs, and be careful not to break them; your
potage will have a most beautiful flavour of fowl, and the fowl will be
as good as before for many made dishes. This soup must be of the colour
of pale sherry.
No. 154. _Potage à la Brunoise._
Cut two middle-sized carrots, two turnips, and four Jerusalem artichokes
into thin slices, lay them separately upon a table and cut each piece
through with a small diamond cutter; add one head of celery cut in small
diamond-shaped pieces, and about a dozen very small onions peeled; put
altogether into a stewpan with three ounces of butter and a teaspoonful
of sugar; pass them over a brisk fire until the water from the
vegetables is quite dried up, and the butter and sugar form a glaze over
them; put them into a clean stewpan with four quarts of clarified
consommé (No. 134); toast a piece of French bread very brown, but not
burnt, put it into the soup five minutes without breaking; when the
vegetables are tender it is ready to serve; add about three
tablespoonfuls of brown gravy (No. 135), and put a few pieces of very
white cauliflower into the tureen.
No. 155. _Potage à la Nivernaise._
Cut an equal quantity of all kinds of vegetable in thin slices, lay them
on the table and cut them through with a cutter the shape of a heart,
pass them in butter and sugar, have ready four quarts of consommé (No.
134), blanch one ounce of Italian paste in salt and water, put it into
the soup ten minutes before serving; skim well, add a little sugar, and
put four large quenelles (No. 120) cut in slices, into the tureen.
No. 156. _Potage à la Palestine._
Cut two onions, half a pound of lean ham, one turnip, one head of
celery, two bay-leaves and a sprig of thyme; put the whole into a
stewpan with half a pound of butter, let it fry on a slow fire about
twenty minutes (stirring it all the time), when forming a white glaze at
the bottom, take it off the fire; have ready peeled and washed a dozen
and a half of Jerusalem artichokes (if they are large, if small a larger
quantity will be required) cut in thin slices; put them into the stewpan
with half a pint of white broth (No. 133), let it simmer until tender;
add three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix the whole well together; add four
quarts of good stock, and a pint of boiled milk; stir it until boiling,
season with a teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, rub it through a
tammie, boil it again and skim, fry croutons of bread (cut small) in
butter; when ready to serve add a gill of cream and three yolks of eggs
made in a liaison in the tureen, pour the soup over; (if too thick add a
little more stock); put in the croutons and serve.
No. 157. _Potage à la purée de Navets._
Cut half a pound of lean ham in dice, with two onions, one head of
celery, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter and
a bouquet garni, stir it over a moderate fire about ten minutes, then
add half a pint of white broth (No. 133), with three pounds of turnips,
peeled, washed and cut in thin slices; place them over a slow fire until
they are quite tender; then add three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well
together, add three quarts of broth, stir it until boiling, season with
a little white pepper, and a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar; skim
it well, pass it through a tammie, boil it again, add a pint of boiled
milk, skim it well ten minutes; when you serve add a liaison of two
yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, pour the soup in the tureen
with small dice of fried bread. It must be rather thin.
No. 158. _Potage à purée d’Asperges._
Cut two fresh bundles of sprue grass, boil very quickly in salt and
water until tender; put four ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan with
half a spoonful of chopped onions; when it is melted mix the sprue with
it, then add three spoonfuls of flour, and four quarts of veal stock
with one pint of boiled milk, let it boil five minutes, stirring it all
the time; season with a teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, and a
little white pepper; pass it through a tammie, boil it again in a clean
stewpan ten minutes, and skim it well; serve half a pint of sprue grass
nicely boiled in it.
No. 159. _Potage à la Crécy._
Scrape, wash, and cut in thin slices, some carrots; take three pounds
and a half of the red part only, lay them on a sieve to drain, put into
a stewpan half a pound of lean ham, two onions, and one head of celery
sliced, add half a pound of butter, three cloves, one blade of mace,
pass it over a moderate fire twenty minutes, then add the carrots with
one pint of white broth (No. 133), when quite tender add three
tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, put four quarts of white veal stock;
let it simmer nearly an hour, skim it well, rub it through a tammie,
boil it again, if too thick add a little more broth, put fried bread
into the tureen, season with a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little salt
and pepper if required.
No. 160. _Potage à la purée de Choufleur._
Boil three large white cauliflowers in salt and water until quite
tender, chop them very fine, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a
stewpan, one leek, one head of celery (in slices) a quarter of a pound
of ham, and two bay-leaves, pass them ten minutes over a quick fire; add
the cauliflower, and three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, add three
quarts of white stock, and one ditto of boiled milk; stir it until
boiling, rub it through a tammie, boil and skim well; season with a
teaspoonful of sugar, half ditto of salt; finish with a liaison of two
yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream; pour the soup into the tureen,
have a cauliflower boiled, and cut into twenty small sprigs, put them
into the soup, but be sure not to break them.
No. 161. _Potage à la purée de Concombres._
Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan, slice two eschalots, six
Jerusalem artichokes, (if early in the spring, but they may be omitted,)
half a pound of lean ham, and six cucumbers peeled very carefully, as
the least green would give a bad flavour; stir it over a slow fire
twenty minutes, then add the meat of half a braised fowl (No. 523), well
pounded, and three spoonfuls of flour, mix well; add three quarts of
veal stock, and a quart of boiled milk, let it boil, keeping it stirred,
rub it through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, skim it well;
season with one teaspoonful of salt, two ditto of sugar, have ready
about twenty pieces of cucumber, stewed as (No. 103), put them into the
tureen, add half a pint of good cream to the soup, and serve. It must
not be too thick.
No. 162. _Potage à la purée de Pois verts._
Cut a quarter of a pound of lean bacon in dice; put it into a stewpan
with a good bunch of green onions, ditto of parsley, a small piece of
mint, a quarter of a pound of butter, and three quarts of very fresh
peas, pour some cold water over, wash the peas well--in mixing the
butter with them pour off all the water; place them over a brisk fire
until they are quite tender, then pound them in a mortar, put back into
the stewpan, add three tablespoonfuls of flour; (mix it well), and about
four quarts of good broth; stir it until boiling, skim well; season with
a teaspoonful of salt, three ditto of sugar, and a little white pepper,
pass it through a tammie and boil again; when you serve it have ready
some croutons (small dice of fried bread), put them in the tureen. Do
not serve it too thick.
No. 163. _Clear Giblet Soup._
Cut six pounds of knuckle of veal, with the bones, and one pound of lean
ham in large dice, have three onions, two turnips, one carrot, two heads
of celery, a bouquet garni, and a tablespoonful of salt; butter a
stewpan lightly, put in the whole of the ingredients, add six cloves,
two blades of mace, and half a pint of water; pass it over a brisk fire
about twenty minutes, stirring every two or three minutes; when there is
a white glaze upon the spoon add eight quarts of broth (No. 133), or
water; directly it boils place it at the corner of the stove, scald the
giblets in boiling water five minutes, take them out, and cut them in
joints, the gizzard in four pieces; put them into the stock and let them
simmer gently until they are quite tender, which will be about two hours
and a half; take them out, pass the stock through a cloth, and clarify
as (No. 134); have ready some carrots and turnips scooped with a small
cutter, two heads of celery cut in small dice, and passed in butter and
sugar, put them into the soup, and let them boil gently until quite
tender; skim well, season with a little salt and sugar; put the giblets,
with some French beans or peas, into the tureen and pour the soup over.
No. 164. _Potage aux Queues de Bœuf (clair.)_
Cut six pounds of leg of beef in large dice, without bones, cut two ox
tails in joints, put them into a stewpan with half a pound of ham, one
carrot, one head of celery, four onions, two ounces of butter, half a
pint of white broth (No. 133), six cloves, one blade of mace, and a
tablespoonful of salt; pass it over a moderate fire half an hour,
stirring it every five minutes; when getting a yellow glaze at the
bottom put some ashes on the stove to slacken the fire, let it remain
twenty minutes longer, until the bottom is covered with a brown glaze,
then add two gallons of cold water, start it on a quick fire, skim it,
and let it simmer on the corner of the stove for two hours, or until the
ox tail is quite tender; then take all the pieces of ox tail out and put
them by until wanted; pass the stock through a napkin into a clean
stewpan, have ready some vegetables cut like for jardinière (No. 147),
pass them in sugar and butter, put them into the stock, boil until quite
tender; season with a little more salt if required, a teaspoonful of
sugar, and a little cayenne; ten minutes previous to serving add a bunch
of parsley with a little thyme and bay-leaf, and the ox tails; take out
the parsley and serve very hot.
No. 165. _Potage aux Queues d’Agneau._
Cut six pounds of trimmings of lamb or veal, half a pound of ham, a
large bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves and marjoram, three cloves,
one blade of mace; put three tablespoonfuls of salad oil into a stewpan
with the ingredients, and half a pint of white broth, cut six lamb’s
tails in joints an inch long, put them into the stewpan with one calf’s
foot cut in pieces, pass it ten minutes over a brisk fire, then add six
quarts of broth (No. 133), or water, and two ounces of salt, when
boiling, skim well, and let it simmer on the corner of the stove about
an hour; take out the pieces of tails and pass the stock through a
napkin into a stewpan, mix two ounces of arrowroot with a gill of cold
broth, and a glass of Madeira, throw it into the boiling stock, stir
well all the time, skim; season with two teaspoonfuls of sugar, pass
through a tammie into a clean stewpan; put in the pieces of tail ten
minutes before serving; be careful to take off any fat which may rise
from them, add juice of a lemon and serve.
No. 166. _Potage aux Queues de veau (clair)._
Proceed exactly as in the last, but instead of lamb use veal, for stock,
cut four calves’ tails in pieces half an inch long, allow more time to
stew, being larger, but finish the same way.
No. 167. _Potage à la Duchesse._
Cut eight pounds of veal, one pound of ham, and one calf’s foot in dice,
butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat with two onions, the
peel of half a lemon, and half a pint of broth (No. 133); pass the whole
over a brisk fire, until forming a white glaze, then add eight quarts of
broth, or water, and half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135), when boiling,
let it simmer at the corner of the stove about two hours, boil a fowl in
it, skim it well, pass through a tammie; put two ounces of arrowroot
into a basin, mix with half a pint of cold broth, add it to the boiling
stock, skim well, boil twenty minutes, have ready a small spring chicken
braised, when cold cut it in nice pieces, have ready also about forty
small quenelles de volaille (No. 120), put them into the soup and serve.
The fowl that you boil in the stock may be used instead of the chicken.
No. 168. _Clear Grouse Soup._
Cut six pounds of leg of beef in large dice, with two wild rabbits, and
one pound of lean ham, butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat,
with two calf’s feet, two onions, four leeks, one carrot, two turnips, a
bunch of thyme, marjoram, bay-leaves, and parsley, a blade of mace, and
six cloves all inclosed in the bunch; set the stewpan over a brisk fire,
add one pint of broth (No. 133), stir it until forming a white glaze,
then add eight quarts of water, and nearly a pint of brown gravy (No.
135); when boiling about an hour add the trimmings of three grouse which
have been previously roasted underdone, (cut the fillets and legs in
pieces and reserve for the tureen;) let it simmer one hour longer, pass
through a napkin into a clean stewpan when near boiling, add an ounce of
arrowroot mixed with two glasses of port wine and a little cold broth;
season with a tablespoonful of salt and half ditto of sugar; boil twenty
minutes, pour into your tureen over the grouse, and serve very hot. The
above quantity would be sufficient for two tureens.
No. 169. _Clear Partridge Soup._
Proceed exactly the same as in the last, being very particular that the
birds are young and not over done.
No. 170. _Clear Pheasant Soup._
Prepare the soup as before, two young pheasants will be enough, but they
must hang until full flavoured, or it would not taste of game. Where
pheasants are plentiful some may be used instead of the rabbits.
No 171. _Clear Woodcock Soup._
Roast two or three woodcocks, well wrapped in paper, underdone, let
them cool, cut them in pieces like the grouse, put the trimmings into
the soup, which must be the same as the grouse soup (No. 168); put the
inside of the woodcocks in the mortar, pound well, mix four ounces of
forcemeat (No. 122) with it, add one yolk of egg, take a knife, surround
every part of the pieces with it, poach them gently in a sauté-pan with
a little stock, put them into the tureen and pour the consommé over.
No. 172. _Clear Hare Soup._
Cut a young hare in small pieces, the legs in two pieces, ditto the
shoulders, and the back in six pieces, put them in a stewpan with half a
pound of lean ham cut in dice, half a pound of butter, eight cloves, two
blades of mace, twenty peppercorns, fry the whole twenty minutes over a
moderate fire; when the hare is getting firm throw over it an ounce of
arrowroot, mix well, add six quarts of consommé (No. 134) and one of
water, let it boil nearly two hours, or until the hare is done, which
you may easily ascertain with a fork, if quite tender put into a small
stewpan until wanted, pass the stock through a fine sieve; have ready
four heads of good white celery washed, cut all the best part in
diamonds, pass them in butter and sugar, then add about a pint of the
stock and simmer until tender, keeping it well skimmed; before serving
add the celery, pieces of hare, one glass of port wine, quarter of a
tablespoonful of salt, and one ditto of sugar; serve very hot, pouring
it over some of the best pieces of hare which you have reserved for your
tureen, nicely trimmed.
No. 173. _Potage clair à la Poissonière._
Prepare a good stock of eight pounds of veal, half a pound of ham, one
carrot, one turnip, four onions, four cloves, two blades of mace, two
heads of celery, and half a pint of broth; pass it over a brisk fire
twenty minutes, when there is a white glaze at the bottom add two
gallons of broth (No. 133), or water, and a tablespoonful of salt, then
add a small cod’s head, let it simmer two hours, skim well, pass through
a cloth into a clean stewpan, put it again on the stove to reduce one
third, have ready scalded and bearded four dozen of fresh oysters and a
pint of muscles, fillet one sole, cut it in diamonds; quarter of an hour
before serving dinner put into the soup the oysters, muscles, and
fillets of soles, with half a handful of picked parsley; let it simmer
ten minutes, skim it well, add a little salt if required, and a
teaspoonful of sugar with a little cayenne, and serve very hot.
No. 174. _Grouse Soup._
Roast two or three grouse, take off all the flesh, reserving some of the
fillets, which cut in thin slices and serve with the soup in the tureen;
put the bones in a stewpan with two quarts of first stock (No.
133)--boil them half an hour--place the flesh into a mortar, pound it
well, then put two onions, half a carrot, and a turnip, in slices into a
stewpan, with half a pound of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, thyme,
two bay-leaves, six peppercorns, and half a blade of mace; stir them
five minutes over the fire, then add a pint of stock, and stew them
until tender, when add the flesh of the birds and four ounces of flour;
mix them well together, then add the stock from the bones, half a pint
of brown gravy (No. 135) and some consommé (No. 134), making altogether
five quarts, boil twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; season with a
little salt and a tablespoonful of sugar; pass it through a tammie, then
put it into another stewpan, boil it again, skim well, pour it into a
tureen in which you have put some croutons and the pieces of fillets;
serve very hot.
No. 175. _Pheasant Soup._
Prepare this soup exactly as the last, but finishing with milk or cream,
and omitting the brown gravy, as this soup must be kept white.
No. 176. _Partridge Soup._
Roast four partridges, and proceed as in the last.
No. 177. _Hare Soup._
Cut eight pounds of beef and veal, with about a pound of bacon, in large
dice, have three onions, two turnips, two carrots, four bay-leaves, a
bunch of parsley, four sprigs of thyme, basil, and three heads of
celery; butter the bottom of a stewpan, put in the meat and vegetables
with a pint of broth, place it over a moderate fire, cut the hare in
pieces (rather small), put it into the stewpan, stir it every six
minutes until it is covered with a brown glaze, then add three quarters
of a pound of flour over the meat, mix well with eight quarts of broth
(No. 133), and a pint of brown gravy (No. 135); let it simmer until the
hare is quite tender, take it out of the stewpan, then trim about ten or
twelve of the best pieces for the tureen, pull all the meat from the
remainder, pound it well in the mortar and add it to the purée; pass it
through a tammie, put it into a clean stewpan, place it on the stove to
boil again; mix the following ingredients in a basin, two tablespoonfuls
of flour, eight ditto of port wine, half ditto of salt, a good pinch of
cayenne pepper, one ditto of sugar, mix well with half a pint of cold
broth (No. 133), add it to the soup when upon the point of boiling; stir
it well, serve very hot; two heads of celery may be added cut small,
passed in butter, and boiled until tender.
No. 178. PURÉE OF ALL KINDS OF GAME, MIXED OR SEPARATE.
If you have any game from a previous dinner, whether pheasant,
partridge, grouse, hare, wild rabbits, or any kind of game, take all the
meat from the bones, put the bones in a stewpan to simmer with four
quarts of consommé (No. 134) half an hour, pound the meat in the mortar
very fine, put it into a clean stewpan with quarter of a pound of
butter, half ditto of ham, two heads of celery cut thin, two eschalots,
one carrot, one turnip, four cloves, and four peppercorns; pass it over
a slow fire twenty minutes, add half a pint of broth, with the meat,
(which for that quantity of soup should be about two pounds), and three
tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, pour the stock from the bones over,
with half a pint of brown gravy (No. 135), boil twenty minutes, pass it
through a tammie into a clean stewpan, if too thick add more broth
season with a little salt and a spoonful of sugar; put some croutons in
a tureen cut very thin of the size of a sixpenny piece, and crisp, if
not ready to serve it must be kept hot in the bain marie; do not let it
boil after it is passed, or it will curdle and have a bad appearance.
No. 179. _Giblet Soup._
Prepare the stock exactly like the clear giblet (No. 163), instead of
clarifying it put half a pound of butter into a stewpan with three
quarters of a pound of flour, make a light-coloured roux, mix the stock
with it, boil it about forty minutes, keeping it stirred, add a large
bouquet garni, pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan, have ready
about fifty small button onions, passed in butter and sugar, throw them
into the soup and let them simmer until tender; ten minutes before
serving add a glass of Madeira, and the giblets (which you have well
trimmed), season with a little salt and sugar if necessary.
No. 180. _Potage à la Reine._
Put a pint of rice into a basin, wash well in three waters, put a
quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, two minced onions, one
turnip, one carrot, four Jerusalem artichokes, half a pound of lean
bacon, two cloves, half a blade of mace, and a small bunch of parsley;
pass the whole over a slow fire about fifteen minutes, taking care it is
not the least brown; add three quarts of white stock (No. 7) and the
rice, let it simmer very gently until the rice is quite tender, have
ready a fowl roasted, take all the meat off the bones and pound well in
the mortar, put the bones in a stewpan with two quarts more stock, boil
a quarter of an hour, add the meat to the rice and vegetables, and pound
all well together, put it back into the same stewpan, add the broth from
the bones, rub through a tammie, boil a quarter of an hour longer,
season with a tablespoonful of sugar, skim well, put two yolks of eggs
in a small basin, mix well with half a pint of cream and pass through a
tammie; two minutes previous to serving throw it in the soup, stir it in
quickly, put some croutons in the tureen, add more stock if too thick
and serve very hot.
No. 181. _Potage à la Regente._
Prepare your soup just as the above; have ready braised a spring
chicken, cut in ten nice pieces; put it into the soup ten minutes to
warm; put into the tureen four spoonfuls of very green sprue grass, if
in season, or green peas, or small Brussels sprouts, and pour the soup
gently over.
No. 182. _Soup Mulligatawny._
Cut four onions, four apples, one carrot, two turnips, one head of
celery, and half a pound of lean ham in slices; put them into a stewpan
with half a pound of butter, pass it twenty minutes over a brisk fire,
with four cloves, one blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, thyme,
bay-leaves, and a pint of broth (No. 133); let it simmer about twenty
minutes, then add three tablespoonfuls of curry powder, one do. of curry
paste, and four do. of flour; mix the whole well together, with eight
quarts of broth; when boiling, skim it, season with a teaspoonful of
sugar, and salt if required; pass it through a tammie, serve with pieces
of roast chicken in it, and boiled rice in a separate dish (No. 129.) It
must not be too thick, and of a good yellow colour.
No. 183. _Potage Queues de Veau à blanc._
Make the stock and stew the calves’ tails precisely as No. 166, instead
of clarifying it; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan with
six ounces of flour; stir it over the fire about five minutes; let it
cool, then mix the stock with it, stirring it well with a wooden spoon
until it boils; then place it at the corner of the stove about twenty
minutes; skim, add a bouquet garni, and a glass of madeira or sherry,
pass it through a tammie; season with a spoonful of sugar, a little
cayenne, and salt if required; put it into another stewpan upon the
fire, and ten minutes before serving add half a pint of cream and the
calves’ tails to warm.
No. 184. _Potage Queues de Veau à l’Indienne._
Put four quarts of mulligatawny soup (No. 182) into a stewpan, and a
pint of consommé (No. 134); cut some vegetables as for julienne (No.
148), put ten tablespoonfuls of salad oil into a sauté-pan; when hot,
fry the vegetables in it, until rather brown; lay them on a sieve to
drain, then add them to the soup, which is in ebullition; skim well, put
about fifteen nice pieces of calves’ tail in it, and serve, with some
dry boiled rice in a separate dish.
No. 185. _Potage Tête de Veau à l’Indienne._
Proceed exactly as above, except, put pieces of cooked calf’s head cut
in square pieces, instead of calves’ tail.
No. 186. _Potage Queues de Bœuf à l’Indienne._
Prepare the same stock as No. 184; put about twelve pieces of ox-tail,
well stewed, as No. 164, into the soup ten minutes before serving.
No. 187. _Potage Queues de Bœuf à l’Anglaise._
Butter the bottom of a middling-sized stewpan, into which put six pounds
of leg of beef, two ox-tails cut in joints, four onions, two heads of
celery, two turnips, one carrot, ten peppercorns, a blade of mace, six
cloves, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; then add half a
pint of water, place it over the fire, stirring it round occasionally,
until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze; then
fill up the stewpan with eight quarts of first stock (No. 133), and two
ounces of salt; when boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, skim
it, and let it simmer until the pieces of ox-tails are perfectly tender,
when take them out, and put them into a basin; then pass the stock
through a cloth, in another stewpan, make a roux with half a pound of
butter, and three quarters of a pound of flour; then add the stock,
which should not exceed seven quarts; stir it over the fire until it
boils, then add a salt-spoonful of cayenne, two glasses of port wine,
and four heads of celery (cut fine and passed ten minutes, in butter,
over a sharp fire,) let the soup simmer an hour at the corner; skim it
well, and put by until wanted; this quantity is sufficient for two
tureens, so when ready to serve, put half of it in a stewpan, with ten
pieces of the tails, and when quite hot, pour it into your tureen. If
too thick, add a little consommé.
No. 188. _Potage aux Huîtres._
Blanch four dozen oysters until rather firm (they must not nearly boil)
drain them on a sieve; save the liquor in which they are blanched. Put a
quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan; when it is melted mix with
it six ounces of flour; stir it over a slow fire a short time;
afterwards let it cool, then add the liquor of the oysters, a quart of
milk, and two quarts of good veal stock (No. 7); season as follows: a
teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, five
peppercorns, half a blade of mace, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, and
half do. of essence of anchovy; strain it through a tammie; boil it
again ten minutes, skim well; beard the oysters, and put them in the
tureen; add a gill of cream to the soup, when it is served, and pour it
over the oysters.
No. 189. _Potage aux filets de Soles._
Put a quarter of a pound of butter, with six ounces of flour into a
stewpan; make a white roux; when cold, mix well with two quarts of veal
stock (No. 7), and one quart of milk; set it on the stove, stir until
boiling; have ready filleted two very fresh soles; trim the fillets, and
put the bones and trimmings into the soup, with four cloves, two blades
of mace, two bay-leaves; two spoonfuls of essence of anchovy, one do. of
Harvey sauce, one do. of sugar, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, and a
little salt if required; skim well, pass through a sieve into a clean
stew pan, boil again; put in ten small pieces of salmon cut half an inch
long, and a quarter do. wide; cut the fillets of the soles the same
size, put them into the boiling soup with half a handful of picked
parsley; boil ten minutes; finish with two yolks of eggs and half a
pint of cream mixed together; throw them into the soup. The pieces of
soles are to be added five minutes before serving; the salmon may be
omitted.
No. 190. _Potage à la Poissonnière._
Blanch two dozen oysters, four dozen very fresh muscles blanched and
bearded; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, with six
ounces of flour, make a white roux; when cool, add the liquor of the
oysters, muscles, and bone of the sole, with two quarts of broth, and
three pints of milk; season with a spoonful of salt, one do. of sugar, a
sprig of thyme, parsley, two bay-leaves, four cloves, and two blades of
mace; pass through a tammie into a clean stewpan, boil and skim well;
cut about ten pieces of salmon into thin slices, half an inch long, a
quarter do. wide; cut the fillet of the sole the same size; put all into
the boiling soup, with half a handful of picked parsley, and a gill of
good cream; put the oysters and muscles in the tureen and serve.
No. 191. _Potage d’Anguille._
Bone two large eels from head to tail, cut the meat off in slanting dice
the size of a teaspoon; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a
stewpan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots, to which add a quarter of
a pound of flour; stir it over a moderate fire five minutes, let it
cool, then add three quarts of good consommé (No. 134); when it boils
throw in the bones of the eels, a small bunch of turtle herbs; let it
boil a few minutes; skim it well, pass through a tammie into a clean
stewpan; put the raw eel into it, with two spoonfuls of Harvey sauce,
one do. essence of anchovy, a quarter of a handful of picked parsley,
two glasses of port wine, a little salt and sugar; place it again over
the fire, boil five minutes, skim, and serve.
No. 192. _Potage de Homard._
Take all meat from a hen lobster, break up the shell and small claws in
a mortar, and put them into a stewpan, with five pints of consommé,
place it at the corner of the fire to simmer half an hour; then mix the
red spawn with a quarter of a pound of butter, as directed (No. 77);
then put two onions, a piece of carrot, and half a turnip, in slices,
into a stewpan, with a few sprigs of parsley and thyme, two bay-leaves,
a blade of mace, four cloves, and a quarter of a pound of butter; stir
them ten minutes over a moderate fire, then add the flesh of the
lobster, previously well pounded, reserving a few slices for the tureen,
and half a pint of second stock; boil it a minute, then add a quarter of
a pound of flour; mix it well, and moisten with the stock from the
shells which strain into it; season with a little cayenne pepper and
essence of anchovies; boil it five minutes, then rub it through a
tammie, and put it into a clean stewpan; let it boil ten minutes at the
corner of the fire, skim it well, and when upon the point of serving,
stir in the quarter of a pound of lobster butter; do not let it boil
afterwards; pour it into the tureen over the fillets of lobster, and
serve very hot. This soup requires to be quite a red colour.
No. 193. _Potage à la Chanoinaise._
Make a white roux of a quarter of a pound of butter and six ounces of
flour; add five pints of white consommé (No. 134) and three pints of
milk; when boiling, skim well: add three tablespoonfuls of essence of
anchovy, two do. of Harvey sauce, a bunch of thyme, parsley, bay-leaf,
half a spoonful of salt, do. of sugar, and a little cayenne pepper; pass
through a tammie; have ready the soft roes of three mackarel, cut in
square pieces, and passed in butter, as directed (No. 382); throw them
in the soup; have ready likewise twenty small quenelles of fish (No.
124); finish with two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79) in which
you have introduced a little chopped tarragon; put the whole into the
soup five minutes previous to serving; add the juice of a lemon.
No. 194. _Potage Pâte d’Italie._
Put four tablespoonfuls of various shaped small Italian paste in a quart
of boiling water, with a little salt in it, boil it a few minutes; put
it on a sieve to drain; have about three quarts of clarified consommé
(No. 134), quite boiling; put the paste into it, and boil a quarter of
an hour; it must be of a pale sherry colour; consommé of fowl is the
best for this kind of potage; season with a little salt and sugar. A
piece of good glaze may likewise be introduced.
No. 195. _Potage au Vermicelle._
Put three quarts of consommé to boil, throw in a good handful of
vermicelli; let it simmer gently about fifteen minutes; season with salt
and a little sugar.
No. 196. _Potage à la Semoule._
Put about six tablespoonfuls of semoulina into three quarts of consommé
(No. 134); when it boils, set it at the corner of the stove to simmer
about twenty minutes; season with a little salt and sugar; serve very
hot.
No. 197. _Potage au Riz._
Steep half a pint of rice (previously well washed) in boiling water five
minutes, drain it on a sieve, put it into three quarts of boiling
consommé (No. 134), let it simmer half an hour; when the rice is quite
done, but not in puree, it is quite ready to serve, with the addition of
a piece of glaze and a little sugar if required. The consommé must be
very strong for this soup.
No. 198. _Potage au Macaroni._
Boil twenty sticks of macaroni in two quarts of water where you have put
salt, and a piece of butter; when tender, cut each stick in three
pieces; have ready three quarts of consommé (No. 134) put the macaroni
in, simmer twenty minutes; and serve with grated Parmesan cheese
separate.
No. 199. _Potage au Macaroni en rubands._
Prepare and serve as above, but using the tape maccaroni instead of the
other, and only blanching it five minutes in the water.
No. 200. _Turtle Soup._
This soup, the delight of civic corporations, the friend of the doctors,
and enemy of the alderman, has been, and perhaps ever will be, the
leading article of English cookery. Its great complication has rendered
it difficult in private establishments; I shall here, however, simplify
it so as to render it practicable. Make choice of a good turtle,
weighing from one hundred and forty to one hundred and eighty pounds,
hang it up by the hind fins securely, cut off the head and let it hang
all night, then take it down, lay it upon its back, and with a sharp
knife cut out the belly, leaving the fins, but keeping the knife nearly
close to the upper shell; take out the interior, which throw away, first
collecting the green fat which is upon it, then remove the fins and
fleshy parts, leaving nothing but the two large shells, saw the top
shell into four and the bottom one in halves; then put the whole of the
turtle, including the head, into a large turbot kettle, and cover them
with cold water, (or if no kettle large enough blanch it in twice),
place it upon a sharp fire and let boil five minutes, to sufficiently
scald it, then put the pieces into a tub of cold water, and with a
pointed knife take off all the scales, which throw away, then take out
carefully the whole of the green fat, which reserve, place the remainder
back in the turbot kettle, where let it simmer until the meat comes
easily from the shells and the fins are tender, then take them out and
detach all the glutinous meat from the shells, which cut into square
pieces and reserve until required. Fricandeau and a few other entrées
were sometimes made from the fleshy parts, but the stringy substance of
that mock meat is not worth eating, and few stomachs can digest it.
_The Stock._--For a turtle of the above size (which is considered the
best, for in comparison with them the smaller ones possess but little
green fat,) cut up sixty pounds of knuckles of veal, and twenty pounds
of beef, with six pounds of lean ham; well butter the bottom of three
large stewpans, and put an equal proportion of meat in each, with four
onions, one carrot, twenty peppercorns, ten cloves, two blades of mace,
an ounce of salt, and a pint of water; place them upon sharp fires,
stirring them round occasionally until the bottom of each is covered
with a brownish glaze, when fill them up with the water in which you
blanched the turtle, taking more water if not sufficient; when boiling
place them at the corners of the fires, let them simmer two hours,
keeping them always well skimmed; then pass the stock through a fine
cloth into basins to cool. The stock after being drawn down in the three
separate stewpans, may be turned into a large stock pot, but my reason
for doing it in smaller quantities is, that it requires less ebullition,
and consequently the aroma of the different ingredients is better
preserved; after having passed the stock, fill them up again with water,
let them simmer four hours, when pass it and convert it into glaze as
directed (No. 132).
_The Soup._--Put three pounds of butter into a large stewpan with ten
sprigs of winter savory, ten of thyme, ten of basil, ten of marjoram,
and ten bay-leaves; place it a few minutes over a moderate fire, but do
not let it change colour, then mix in four pounds and a half of flour to
form a roux, which keep stirring over the fire until it becomes lightly
tinged, when take it off the fire and stir it occasionally until partly
cold, then add the stock which should amount to ten gallons, place it
again over the fire and stir it until boiling, then place it at the
corner, let it simmer two hours, keeping it well skimmed, then pass it
through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add the pieces of turtle, place
it at the corner of the fire and let it simmer until the meat is nearly
tender, when add the green fat, and let it remain upon the fire until
the meat is quite tender, add a little more salt if required, and put it
by in basins until ready for use; when ready to serve warm the quantity
required, and to each tureenful add half a saltspoonful of cayenne, and
a quarter of a pint of Madeira wine; serve a lemon separate. To make
soup of a smaller sized turtle you must of course reduce the other
ingredients in proportion. The remains of the soup put in jars will keep
a considerable time.
No. 201. _Clear Turtle Soup._
Is now perhaps held in the highest estimation among real epicures, and
when artistically prepared is indeed worthy the name of a luxury; it is
easier digested and does not dog the palate so much as when made thick,
indeed a pint of this soup may be taken before a good dinner (with the
assistance of milk punch not too much iced or too sweet) where half a
pint of the other might spoil the remainder of your dinner. I shall here
describe it in that simple manner which will render it easy for any cook
not only to understand but to do it well. Prepare the turtle precisely
as in the last, as also the stocks, merely filling them up when the
bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze instead of brown,
thus keeping the stock white and very clear; when done, pass them
through a cloth into a clean stewpan, place it over the fire and reduce
it one third, having previously thrown in a bunch containing ten sprigs
of winter savory, ten of marjoram, ten of thyme, ten of basil, and ten
bay-leaves, then mix three quarters of a pound of the best arrow root
with a quart of cold stock and a pint of wine, (sherry), pour it into
the boiling soup, keeping it stirred five minutes, then pass it through
a cloth into another stewpan, add the pieces of meat from the turtle and
proceed as for the thick turtle, but omitting the cayenne; this soup
ought to be quite clear and of a greenish hue.
No. 202. _Mock Turtle Soup._
Put a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large stewpan,
then cut up twenty pounds of knuckles of veal in large dice, with two
pounds of uncooked ham; put them into a stewpan with six onions, two
carrots, two heads of celery, twenty peppercorns, two blades of mace,
two ounces of salt, and a pint of water; set it over a sharp fire,
stirring it round occasionally until the bottom of the stewpan is
covered with a light brown glaze, then lay in the half of a scalded
calf’s head, the cheek downwards, and fill up the stewpan with fourteen
quarts of water; when boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, where
let it simmer two hours and a half, keeping it well skimmed, but taking
out the half head as soon as it becomes flexible to the touch, (which
will take about the time the stock requires to simmer), remove all the
bone and press the head flat between two dishes until cold, then pass
the stock through a cloth into a basin, put a pound of butter into
another stewpan, with four sprigs of winter savory, four of thyme, four
of marjoram, four of basil, and four bay-leaves, fry them a few minutes
in the butter, but do not let it change colour, then mix in a pound and
a half of flour, stir it a few minutes over the fire until becoming
slightly tinged, take it from the fire, stirring it round occasionally
until partly cold, when pour in the stock, place it again upon the fire,
keeping it stirred until it boils, then place it at the corner and let
it simmer for half an hour, keeping it well skimmed, season with a
little cayenne pepper, and more salt if required, and pass it through a
tammie into a basin until wanted. When the calf’s head is cold take off
all the meat and fat, leaving nothing but the glutinous part, which cut
into pieces an inch square; when ready to serve the soup put about three
quarts (to each tureen), into a stewpan with twenty of the pieces of
head and a glass of sherry, boil altogether fifteen minutes, when skim
and serve very hot. This soup may likewise be thickened without a roux,
as directed for brown sauce (No. 4). Forcemeat and egg-balls were
formerly served in this soup, the latter in imitation of turtles’ eggs,
but better imitations of bullets, and almost as indigestible; the
omission of them will, I am certain, prove beneficial, for whether the
stomach be strong or delicate it will not bear loading with ammunition
of that description. The above soup requires to be a light brown colour,
and for thickness it must adhere lightly to the back of the spoon.
METHOD OF CLEANING SALT-WATER FISH.
_Turbot._
Take the gills out carefully, and make an incision close to the head (on
the back of the fish) from which take out the inside, and wash it well
with salt and water. Observe that the middle-sized fish are the best; if
too large, they sometimes eat tough and thready; this fish is better
kept a day or two after it is caught, particularly in winter.
_Brill._
Take the scales off the belly, and proceed the same as for turbot, but
cut off the fins.
_John Dory._
Cut off the fins, take out the gills, and open the fish at the breast,
from whence take out the inside; wash it but as little as possible. The
liver of this fish is very delicate; but cannot be obtained except by
parties living near where they are caught, as it dissolves in a very
short time if kept.
_Cod-fish._
Cut and pull out the gills, then open the belly and take out the inside;
wash it in spring water; if this fish is required crimped, you must
clean it before it is quite dead (that is to say, whilst life remains in
the muscles of the fish); cut it up in slices three inches in
thickness, and lay them in spring water for a quarter of an hour; or if
the fish is wanted to be served whole, merely cut incisions upon each
side to the bone, about two inches apart, and lay it in spring water
three quarters of an hour.
_Whitings._
Cut out the gills, and open the belly; wash them and cut off the fins;
if for frying, cut off the flaps under the neck of the fish, then pass
your knife lightly from the head to the tail, down the back, merely
cutting through the skin; then detach the skin at the head, and pull it
all off one side together, and then the other; then put the tail into
the mouth, and run a peg through the nose and tail, to keep it in that
position.
_Haddocks._
Are cleaned in the same manner as whitings, but not skinned or trussed,
as they are seldom fried.
_Salmon._
Cut out the gills, open the belly, and take out the inside, which wash
lightly; scrape off the scales, and cut it in slices, or serve whole; if
it is to be crimped, you must let the scales remain; crimp it in the
same manner as cod-fish. Clean salmon-trout in the same way as salmon.
_Soles._
Take out the gills, and make a small opening in the belly of the fish;
take out the interior, leaving the roe; then detach the skin of the back
at the head; pull it all off the fish together, and cut off the fins.
_Mackerel._
Cut the gills, and pull them out carefully, so that the inside of the
fish comes with them; wipe it well, cut off the fins, and trim the tail.
_Red Mullets._
Scale them very lightly, or you will destroy all the bloom; pull out the
gills, and part of the inside will come with them.
_Gurnets._
Scrape off all the scales, cut the fins off close, pull out the gills,
open the bellies, and take out the inside; wash it well, and scrape the
parts where the blood rests, or when cooked it will look like a bruise.
_Herrings._
Scrape them, pull out the gills, and the inside with them, leaving the
roe unbroken; wipe them well.
_Smelts._
This fish is so very delicate, that it requires every attention in
cleaning them: pull out the gills, and the inside will come with them;
wipe very lightly.
METHOD OF CLEANING FRESH-WATER FISH.
_Carp._
Have a sharp-pointed kitchen knife, put the point carefully under the
scales (between the scales and the skin); at the tail of the fish pass
the knife gently up the back to the head, dividing the scales from the
skin carefully; you may then take off the whole of the scales in one
piece from each side, and your fish will look very white; (most cooks
are acquainted with this mode, but should it be too difficult for some,
they can scrape it in the common way; it will not look so white, but
will eat equally good;) then make a small incision in the belly, close
to the bladder; pull out the gills with a cloth, and the inside with
them; but if any remains, take it out of the incision, but be careful
not to disturb the roe or break the gall; lay it in spring water half an
hour to disgorge; dry it with a cloth.
_Pike._
Take off the scales as you would a carp; make two incisions in the
belly, a small one close to the bladder, and a larger one above; pull
one of the gills at the time with a strong cloth, and if the inside does
not come with them, take them out of the incisions, and wash it well;
the cutting of the fins is a matter of taste, but it is usually done.
_Trout_
Are sometimes served with the scales on, but they are usually taken off;
clean like salmon.
_Tench_
Are very difficult fish to clean; the best way is to form them in the
shape of the letter S, and instead of scraping them from the tail to the
head, like other fish, scrape upwards from the belly to the back with an
oyster knife, the scales running that way, take out the gills, open the
belly, take out the inside, and wash it clean.
_Perch_
Are very difficult to scrape; they must be done almost alive: form the
fish like an S, and scrape it with an oyster-knife; open the belly and
take out the inside; pull out the gills, and wash well; when large, they
are often boiled with the scales on, and they are taken off afterwards,
which is much easier; but it depends upon how they are to be cooked.
_Eels._
Kill them by knocking their heads upon a block or anything hard; then
take the head in your hand with a cloth, and just cut through the skin
round the neck, and turn it down about an inch; then pull the head with
one hand and the skin with the other, it will come off with facility;
open the belly and take out the inside; cut off the fins and those
bristles that run up the back; if the eel is large and oily, hold it
over a charcoal fire, moving it quickly all the while; but the small
ones will not require it. Nothing is harder to kill than eels; and it is
only by killing, or rather stunning them in the manner above described
that they suffer the least.
_Lampreys_
Are cleaned in the same manner as eels, but do not require skinning.
POISSONS.
No. 203. _Turbot, to boil._
A turbot must be well rubbed over with salt and lemon before it is put
in the water; have ready a large turbot-kettle half full of cold water,
and to every six quarts of water, put one pound of salt, lay the fish in
and place it over a moderate fire; a turbot of eight pounds may be
allowed to simmer twenty minutes or rather more, thus it will be about
three quarters of an hour altogether in the water; when it begins to
crack very slightly, lift it up with the drainer and cover a clean white
napkin over it; if you intend serving the sauce over your fish, dish it
up without a napkin; if not, dish it upon a napkin and have ready some
good sprigs of double parsley to garnish it with, and serve very hot.
No. 204. _Turbot à la Crème._
Cook the turbot as above and dish it without a napkin, (but be careful
that it is well drained before you place it on the dish, and absorb what
water runs from the fish with a napkin, for that liquor would spoil your
sauce, and cause it to lose that creamy substance which it ought to
retain; this remark applies to all kinds of fish that is served up with
the sauce over it); then put one pint of cream on the fire in a good
sized stewpan, and when it is nearly simmering add half a pound of fresh
butter, and stir it as quickly as possible until the butter is melted,
but the cream must not boil; then add a liaison of three yolks of eggs,
season with a little salt, pepper, and lemon juice, pour as much over
the turbot as will cover it, and serve the remainder in a boat; or if
not approved of, dish the fish on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and
serve the sauce in a boat. This sauce must not be made until the moment
it is wanted.
No. 205. _Turbot Sauce homard._
Cook the turbot as before, then take an ounce of lobster spawn and pound
it in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, rub it through
a hair sieve with a wooden spoon upon a plate, have ready a pint of good
melted butter nearly boiling, into which put the red butter, and season
with a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, a little Harvey sauce, cayenne
pepper, and salt, then cut up the flesh of the lobster in dice and put
in the sauce; serve it in a boat very hot.
No. 206. _Turbot à la Hollandaise._
Cook the turbot as before, and dish without a napkin; then put the yolks
of four eggs in a stewpan with half a pound of fresh butter, the juice
of a lemon, half a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of one of white
pepper; set it over a slow fire stirring it the whole time quickly; when
the butter is half melted take it off the fire for a few seconds, (still
keeping it stirred), till the butter is quite melted, then place it
again on the fire till it thickens, then add a quart of melted butter,
stir it again on the fire, (but do not let it boil, or it would curdle
and be useless), then pass it through a tammie into another stewpan,
make it hot in the bain marie, stirring all the time pour it over the
fish or serve in a boat. The sauce must be rather sharp, add more
seasoning if required.
No. 207. _Turbot à la Mazarine._
Cook the fish as above, then have all the spawn from two fine hen
lobsters; if not sufficient get some live spawn from the fishmonger’s,
making altogether about two ounces, pound it well in the mortar and mix
it with half a pound of fresh butter, rub it through a hair sieve, place
it upon ice until firm, then put it in a stewpan with the yolks of four
eggs, a little pepper, half a teaspoonful of salt, and four
tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, place it over the fire and proceed as for
the sauce Hollandaise, adding the same quantity of melted butter, and
two teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovy, pass it through a tammie into a
clean stewpan to make it hot, dish the fish without a napkin, soaking up
the water in the dish with a clean cloth, and pour the sauce over it; be
careful the sauce does not boil or it will curdle.
This dish is one of the most elegant, and is the best way of dressing a
turbot, for I have always remarked that notwithstanding its simplicity,
it has given the greatest satisfaction, both for its delicateness and
appearance, causing no trouble only requiring care.
No. 208. _Turbot en matelote Normande._
Procure a smallish turbot, one weighing about ten pounds would be the
best, cut off part of the fins and make an incision in the back, butter
a sauté-pan, (large enough to lay the turbot in quite flat), and put
three tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, three glasses of sherry or
Madeira, half a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and about
half a pint of white broth into it, then lay in the turbot and cover it
over with white sauce (No. 7), start it to boil over a slow fire, then
put it into a moderate oven about an hour, try whether it is done with a
skewer, if the skewer goes through it easily it is done, if not, bake it
a little longer, then give it a light brown tinge with the salamander,
place the fish upon a dish to keep it hot, then put a pint of white
sauce in the sauté-pan and boil it fifteen minutes, stirring it all the
time, then pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, and add a
little cayenne pepper, two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, two
dozen of oysters, (blanched), two dozen of small mushrooms, two dozen
quenelles (No. 120), six spoonfuls of milk, and a teaspoonful of sugar,
reduce it till about the thickness of bechamel sauce, then add eight
tablespoonfuls of cream and the juice of a lemon, pour over the turbot;
have ready twenty croûtons of bread cut triangularly from the crust of a
French roll, and fried in butter; place them round the dish and pass the
salamander over it and serve.
No. 209. _Turbot en Matelote vierge._
Boil a turbot as before, dish it up without a napkin, and have ready the
following sauce; chop two onions very fine and put them in a stewpan
with four glasses of sherry, a sole cut in four pieces, two cloves, one
blade of mace, a little grated nutmeg, some parsley, and one bay-leaf;
boil altogether five minutes, then add a quart of white sauce (No. 7),
boil twenty minutes stirring all the time, then put a tammie over a
clean stewpan, and colander over the tammie, pass the sauce, take the
meat off the sole and rub it through the tammie with two spoons into the
sauce, add half a pint of broth, boil it again until it is rather thick,
season with a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, the juice of a lemon,
and finish with half a pint of cream whipped, mix it quickly and pour
over the fish; garnish with white-bait and fried oysters (that have been
egged and bread-crumbed,) or, if there is no white-bait, smelts will do.
No. 210. _Turbot à la Réligieuse._
Dress the turbot as before, and cover with Hollandaise sauce (No. 66);
chop some Tarragon chervil, and one French truffle, which sprinkle over
it; garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut in four lengthwise and laid
round.
No. 211. _Turbot à la Crème (gratiné)._
Put a quarter of a pound of flour in a stewpan, mix it gently with a
quart of milk, be careful that it is not lumpy, then add two eschalots,
a bunch of parsley, one bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme tied together,
for if put in loose it would spoil the colour of your sauce, (which
should be quite white,) then add a little grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful
of salt and a quarter ditto of pepper, place it over a sharp fire and
stir it the whole time, boil it till it forms rather a thickish paste,
then take it off the fire and add half a pound of fresh butter and the
yolks of two eggs, mix them well into the sauce and pass it through a
tammie, then having the remains of a turbot left from a previous dinner,
you lay some of the sauce on the bottom of a dish, then a layer of the
turbot, (without any bone,) season it lightly with pepper and salt, then
put another layer of sauce, then fish and sauce again until it is all
used, finishing with sauce; sprinkle the top lightly with bread crumbs
and grated Parmesan cheese; put it in a moderate oven half an hour, give
it a light brown colour with the salamander and serve it in the dish it
is baked on.
No. 212. _Turbot à la Poissonière._
Boil a turbot as before, and take it up when only one third cooked, then
put in a large sauté-pan or baking sheet forty button onions peeled and
cut in rings, two ounces of butter, two glasses of port wine, the peel
of half a lemon, and four spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, then lay in
the turbot and cover with a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), set it in a
slow oven for an hour, then take it out and place it carefully on a
dish, place the fish again in the oven to keep hot, then take the lemon
peel out of the sauce and pour the sauce into a stewpan, reduce it till
rather thick, then add twenty muscles, (blanched), twenty heads of
mushrooms, and about thirty fine prawns; when ready to serve add one
ounce of anchovy butter, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little cayenne
pepper, stir it in quickly but do not let it boil; pour the sauce over
the fish and serve very hot.
No. 213. _Turbot à la Crème d’Anchois._
Boil the turbot and dish it without a napkin, then pour the following
sauce over it and serve immediately: put a quart of melted butter into a
stewpan, place it on the fire and when nearly boiling add six ounces of
anchovy butter (No. 78), and four spoonfuls of whipped cream, mix it
quickly but do not let it boil; when poured over the fish sprinkle some
chopped capers and gherkins over it.
No. 214. _Small Turbot à la Meûnière._
Crimp the turbot by making incisions with a sharp knife, about an inch
apart, in the belly part of the fish, then rub two tablespoonfuls of
chopped onions and four of salt into the incisions, pour a little salad
oil over it and dip it in flour, then put it on a gridiron a good
distance from the fire--the belly downwards--let it remain twenty
minutes, then turn it by placing another gridiron over it, and turning
the fish over on to it, place it over the fire for about twenty-five
minutes, or longer if required; when done place it upon a dish and have
ready the following sauce: put six ounces of butter in a stewpan, with
ten spoonfuls of melted butter, place it over the fire, moving the
stewpan round when very hot, but not quite in oil, add a liaison (No.
119) of two yolks of eggs, a little pepper, salt, and the juice of a
lemon, mix it quickly and pour over the fish; serve directly and very
hot. The fish must be kept as white as possible. For the above purpose
the turbot should not exceed eight pounds in weight.
No. 215. _Turbot au gratin à la Provençale._
This dish is made from fish left from a previous dinner; pot two
tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, and two of chopped mushrooms into a
stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of salad oil; place it over a moderate
fire five minutes, stirring it with a wooden spoon; then add three pints
of brown sauce (No. 1), and reduce it one third, then add a clove of
scraped garlic, a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, one of essence of
anchovy, a little sugar, a little cayenne, and two yolks of eggs, pour a
little sauce on the dish you serve it on, then a layer of fish lightly
seasoned with pepper and salt, then more sauce and fish again, finishing
with sauce, sprinkle bread crumbs over it and place it in a moderate
oven half an hour, or till it is very hot through, brown it lightly with
the salamander and serve very hot. The garlic may be omitted if objected
to, but it would lose the flavour from which it is named.
No. 216. _Brill au naturel._
This fish though not so much thought of as turbot is very delicate
eating, and being cheaper may be more freely used for fillets, &c., and
may be recommended cooked in the following ways:--Boil a brill as you
would a turbot, but the flesh being softer than that fish you put it in
boiling water; if the fish weighs from four to five pounds put it into
six quarts of water in which there is one pound of salt, draw the kettle
to the corner of the fire and let it simmer for half an hour, try
whether it is done as you would a turbot, drain it and dish it on a
napkin; garnish with parsley, and serve with shrimp sauce (No. 73).
No. 217. _Brill à la purée de Câpres._
Take a very fresh fish, and an hour before cooking rub a good handful
of salt on it, then boil it as before, dish it without a napkin, and
have ready the following sauce:--put a pint and a half of melted butter
into a stewpan, then have ready prepared three tablespoonfuls of capers,
and two of gherkins, with a little boiled spinach pounded in a mortar
with four ounces of fresh butter, and passed through a hair sieve, and
when the melted butter is nearly boiling stir it quickly into it; finish
it with a little essence of anchovy, a little cayenne pepper, and a
little sugar, and pour over the fish when ready to serve. The butter
requires to lay upon ice until quite hard.
No. 218. _Brill à la Hollandaise._
Boil the fish as above and proceed as for turbot à la Hollandaise; see
that article.
No. 219. _Brill aux Câpres._
Boil the fish and put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a
stewpan, place it on the fire and when nearly boiling mix two ounces of
fresh butter and three tablespoonfuls of capers with a little pepper and
salt, dish on a napkin and pour the sauce over or serve in a boat.
No. 220. _Brill à la Meûnière._
Proceed as for Turbot à la meûnière, (No. 214,) allowing sufficient time
according to the size of the fish.
No. 221. _Brill sauce Homard._
Proceed as for turbot sauce homard, (No. 205.)
No. 222. _Brill à la Billingsgate._
Broil the fish as for brill à la meûnière and dish it without a napkin;
then have ready the following sauce;--blanch a pint of muscles, beard
them and take out the black spots, then put two chopped eschalots in a
stewpan with one ounce of butter, pass it over the fire five minutes,
then add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix with it the liquor from the
muscles, half a pint of milk, and half a gill of cream, a saltspoonful
of salt, a little white pepper, and some grated nutmeg, boil it until
rather thick, pass it through a tammie, then add two pats of butter, a
few drops of essence of anchovy and the muscles; pour over the fish and
serve very hot.
No. 223. _Brill au gratin._
See turbot à la crème gratiné (No. 211,) and proceed in the same manner.
No. 224. _Brill à la crème d’Anchois._
Proceed as for turbot à la crème d’anchois (No. 213.)
No. 225. _Filets de Brill à la Juive._
Fillet a brill by passing a good knife from the head to the tail of the
fish close to the middle bone, hold your knife in a slanting direction
keeping it close to the bone (without cutting the bone) until you reach
the fins, proceed in like manner until you have got off all the meat
from the bones, then cut each fillet in halves, or in four pieces if
they are large, egg and bread-crumb each piece, then dip them in
clarified butter and again bread-crumb them; when ready fry them of a
yellowish brown in salad oil, dish them upon a napkin, and have a good
lot of fried parsley, which place in the middle, dishing your fillets
round it, serve with a sauce Hollandaise (see Turbot à la Hollandaise,
No. 206,) in which you introduce a tablespoonful of the best salad oil.
To fry fish in oil you merely require to cover the bottom of your
sauté-pan and let it get very hot before you put the fish in it.
No. 226. _Filets de Brill en matelote._
Fillet and fry the fish as above, dish it on a border of mashed
potatoes, and place the following sauce in the centre:--peel about forty
button onions, and pass them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and
a little sugar; when of a light brown colour add two tablespoonfuls of
wine, set it on the fire five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce
and eight tablespoonfuls of stock, set it on the corner of the fire to
boil forty minutes, skim it, then add twenty quenelles (No. 120), twenty
heads of mushrooms, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, one of Harvey
sauce, and one of mushroom catsup, with a little cayenne pepper.
No. 227. _John Dorée._
Of all fish this one is perhaps the most delicious, although but
recently in vogue; their appearance has been a great objection to them;
considering this I have studied to discover several ways of dressing
them to improve their appearance and flavour; to dress them plain you
boil them in the same way as brills, allowing about the same time for
the same weight, and ascertain when done by the same means; serve on a
napkin; garnish the parts that are broken with double parsley, and serve
anchovy sauce in a boat.
No. 228. _John Dorée à l’Orléannaise._
Procure a very fresh dory about five pounds in weight, then have ready
half a pound of forcemeat of fish (No. 124), in a basin, with which mix
a little chopped thyme and parsley, season rather high, stuff your dory
with it, lay it in a fish kettle with three onions, a carrot, turnip,
head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, one
tablespoonful of salt, four cloves, two glasses of port wine, two of
vinegar, and four quarts of water, set it over a slow fire for an hour
to stew, drain it well and dish it without a napkin, have ready the
following sauce:--put four yolks of eggs in a stewpan with half a pound
of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and three
tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; stir it over the fire (with a wooden
spoon,) till the butter is melted and thickens, then add an ounce of
lobster spawn (that has been pounded with an ounce of butter and passed
through a hair sieve), mix it well together, then add eighteen spoonfuls
of bechamel sauce (No. 7), stir it over the fire till it becomes red and
thickish, then add a few drops of essence of anchovy, and a little
cayenne pepper, with a pinch of sugar, pass it through a tammie, then
add six gherkins cut in large fillets, and thirty fillets of boiled
beet-root the same size as the fillets of gherkin; pour it over the
fish, and garnish with craw fish, and sprigs of parsley laid between.
No. 229. _John Dorée en matelote Marinière._
Flour the fish and boil or stew it as above, dish it without a napkin,
then have ready a matelotte sauce (see fillets of brill en matelotte,
No. 226,) to which add three dozen of oysters that have been blanched
and bearded; pour the sauce over the fish and serve very hot.
No. 230. _John Dorée à la Crèmière._
Boil the fish, put a pint of milk with the water you boil it in, dish it
on a napkin, garnish with some large sprigs of double parsley, have
ready the following sauce: put half a pint of double cream in a stewpan,
and when it is nearly boiling, add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter;
shake the stewpan round with your hand till the butter is melted, then
add the juice of a lemon, a saltspoonful of salt, and half ditto of
white pepper; serve in a boat very hot.
No. 231. _John Dorée en Ravigote._
Boil the fish as above, and dish it up without a napkin; have ready the
following sauce: put three yolks of eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces
of fresh butter, three tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, a
saltspoonful of salt, and a little white pepper; stir it over the fire
for a few minutes until the butter melts, and it becomes thickish; then
add eighteen spoonfuls of melted butter, stir it over the fire, but do
not let it boil; pass it through a tammie, then add a tablespoonful of
chopped tarragon and chervil mixed; place it again over the fire,
keeping it stirred, and when very hot pour it over the fish, and garnish
with a few sprigs of chervil. This sauce requires to be rather thick, to
mask the fish.
No. 232. _John Dorée à la purée de Crevettes._
Boil the fish as usual, and dish without a napkin; have ready the
following sauce: pick and wash a pint of fresh prawns, pound them in a
mortar with half a pound of fresh butter, and rub them through a sieve;
then put twelve spoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with
twelve of melted butter; place it over the fire, and when it boils, stir
the butter and prawns into it; pour the sauce over the fish, and strew
chopped lobster over.
No. 233. _John Dorée à la Batelière._
Boil the fish as usual, and dish it up without a napkin; have ready the
following sauce: peel fifty button onions, pass them in a stewpan with a
little sifted sugar and butter, but keep them quite white; then add a
glass of sherry, twenty spoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and a bunch of
parsley; set it on the corner of the stove to simmer till the onions are
quite done (if the sauce is too thick, add a few spoonfuls of white
stock); then throw in twenty heads of mushrooms, a dozen of blanched
oysters, and a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies; take out the bunch
of parsley, finish with a little cream, pour the sauce over the fish,
and salamander of a light colour.
No. 234. _John Dorée à la Crème (gratiné.)_
Proceed as for Turbot à la crème gratiné (No. 211).
No. 235. _John Dorée à la Hollandaise._
Proceed as for Turbot à la Hollandaise (No. 206).
No. 236. _Saumon._
The Thames salmon used to be reckoned the most recherché; but since so
many steam-boats have been introduced upon the surface of that noble
river, and the tunnel has been built, introducing their greatest
enemies, human beings, both above and below their liquid habitation,
they have fled to the ocean for protection, and are now no longer
discernible from their once commoner brethren. But the Severn salmon is
now esteemed the best; the crimped is in the highest favour with the
gourmets. It would be useless to make any observations about this fish,
as it is well known to range as one of the highest order.
No. 237. _Saumon au naturel._
Put your fish in cold water (using a pound of salt to every six quarts
of water), let it be well covered with water, and set it over a moderate
fire; when it begins to simmer, set it on the side of the fire. If the
fish weighs four pounds, let it simmer half an hour; if eight pounds,
three quarters of an hour, and so on in proportion; dish it on a napkin,
and serve lobster or shrimp sauce in a boat. (See those sauces, Nos. 68
and 73.)
No. 238. _Crimped Salmon au naturel._
Have two quarts of water boiling in a stewpan, with half a pound of
salt, in which place two slices of crimped salmon (if more than two
required, put more water in proportion), boil them quickly for a quarter
of an hour or twenty minutes; try the bone in the centre, and if it
leaves easily, the fish is done; avoid leaving the fish in water after
it is done, as it destroys its aroma; but if not ready, cover it over
with a wet napkin, and stand it in the hot closet; dish on a napkin, and
serve either lobster or shrimp sauce with it. (See Nos. 68 and 73.)
No. 239. _Saumon en matelote Marinière._
Rub two or three large slices of salmon with oil, and dip them in flour;
then put them on a gridiron over a moderate fire; when one side is done
turn them carefully, and when the bone will leave easily, they are done;
dish them without a napkin, and pour a matelote sauce (No. 62) over
them.
240. _Saumon à la Mazarine._
Boil the salmon in slices, as previously; dish it without a napkin, and
pour a Mazarine sauce over them (see Turbot à la Mazarine, No. 207.)
No. 241. _Saumon à la Hollandaise._
Boil the salmon as before; if in slices, dish them without a napkin, and
pour the sauce over them; if a whole salmon serve it in a boat. (See
Turbot à la Hollandaise, No. 206.)
No. 242. _Saumon à la Cardinal._
Stuff the belly of the salmon with forcemeat of fish (No. 124) and
braise as directed for John Dorée à l’Orléannaise (No. 228); when done
dish it without a napkin, and cover it with a mazarine sauce (No. 207),
sprinkle truffles and gherkins cut in diamonds over it.
No. 243. _Saumon à l’Amiral._
Truss a small salmon in the form of the letter S, and boil it as
previously; dish it without a napkin, and have ready the following
sauce: peel four large onions, cut them in slices, and put them into a
stewpan with six tablespoonfuls of salad oil; fry them a light brown
colour, then pour off the oil, and add two glasses of port wine, three
cloves, one blade of mace, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, one teaspoonful
of salt, two of sugar, twenty spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and six
of brown gravy (No. 135); reduce it over a sharp fire a quarter of an
hour, rub it through a tammie, and place it again in a stewpan; boil it
again a short time, and finish with one ounce of anchovy butter (No.
78), and two spoonfuls of Harvey sauce; then place a border of mashed
potatoes round the fish, upon which dish a border of quenelles of
whiting (No. 124); and upon every other quenelle stick a prawn, pour the
sauce over the fish, and a mazarine sauce over the quenelles; serve very
hot.
No. 244. _Saumon en matelote Saxone._
Boil a small salmon as in the last article, and dish without a napkin;
have ready some small legs of lobster, bend them at the joints and stick
the ends into the back of the salmon, from head to tail, make the sauce
as for turbot à la poissonière (No. 212), and pour over the fish, then
have ready some fillets of sole (cut in strips as fine as white-bait,)
nicely bread-crumbed and fried in lard, with which garnish your fish.
No. 245. _Saumon à la Beyrout._
Broil two slices, of salmon in oiled paper over a moderate fire; when
they are done peel the skin from the edge and lay them on a dish without
a napkin; have ready the following sauce: put one tablespoonful of
chopped onions in a stewpan with one ditto of Chili vinegar, one of
common vinegar, two ditto of Harvey sauce, two ditto mushroom catsup,
and twenty tablespoonfuls of melted butter; let it reduce till it
adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two tablespoonfuls of essence
of anchovy and a small quantity of sugar, pour it over the fish and
serve very hot.
No. 246. _Saumon à la Pêcheuse._
Take a slice of thick salmon and make an incision upon each side,
cutting it to the bone, put plenty of salt and chopped onions upon it
and rub it well in, then oil a sheet of white paper, lay the salmon on
it, fold the paper over and crimp it at the edges to keep the steam from
escaping, put it on a gridiron over a slow fire, and when done serve it
in the paper with pats of butter separate; the person that serves this
dish at table should open the paper and place two pats of butter on each
slice; it requires to be eaten very hot.
No. 247. _Saumon à l’Ecillière._
Boil three large slices of salmon, place them upon a dish, then have
ready the following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped onions into a
stewpan, with a very small quantity of salad oil, pass it over a
moderate fire three or four minutes, but keep them quite white, then cut
in small dice the tender part of four dozen of oysters, put them in the
stewpan with the onions, stir them over the fire till the oysters are
warmed through, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, (mix all well
together,) two tablespoonfuls of oyster sauce (No. 69), half a
teaspoonful of salt, and two ditto of sugar, with a little cayenne
pepper and essence of anchovies, place it again over the fire, keeping
it stirred, and when it has boiled two minutes stir in the yolks of
four eggs very quickly, keep it over the fire another half minute till
it begins to set, then pour it on a dish and when cold spread it upon
the slices of salmon, then egg and bread-crumb over, and put in a warm
oven twenty minutes, salamander of a good colour, dish them without a
napkin, and pour a lobster sauce (No. 68) with oysters in it round them.
No. 248. _Saumon à la Crème d’Anchois._
Boil two slices of salmon, dish without a napkin, and pour the sauce
over them (see Turbot à la crème d’anchois, No. 213).
No. 249. _Saumon au gratin à la Provençale._
Should you have any salmon left from a previous dinner it is very good
served in this manner (for description, see Turbot au gratin à la
provençale, No. 215.)
No. 250. _Saumon à la Crème (gratiné)._
Proceed as for Turbot (No. 211). Many of my readers will probably make
some remarks and think it singular that so many different fishes are
served with the same sauces, but I must here observe that each fish
brings with it its own flavour; and again, it is not to be supposed that
any cook would send two different fishes the same day with the same
sauce, when there is such a variety to choose from.
No. 251. _Sole en matelote Normande._
Cut the fins off a fine fresh sole and make an incision down the back
close to the bone, in which put some forcemeat of fish (No. 124), well
seasoned with chopped eschalots and parsley, then butter a sauté-pan
very lightly and put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots into it with two
glasses of white wine, lay the sole into it and season with a little
pepper and salt, then cover it with some bechamel sauce (No. 7), and put
it into a moderate oven for about twenty minutes or half an hour, (but
try whether it is done with a skewer,) brown it lightly with the
salamander, then take up the sole, dish it without a napkin, and make
the sauce as follows: put six spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in the
sauté-pan with six ditto of milk, let it boil four minutes, keeping it
stirred, then add one dozen oysters blanched, one dozen quenelles of
whiting (No. 124), one dozen mushrooms, half a teaspoonful of essence of
anchovies, and four tablespoonfuls of cream, with a little cayenne
pepper and sugar; pour the sauce over and round the fish, pass the
salamander again over it and garnish round with fried bread cut in small
triangles. The sauce may be passed though a tammie before the garniture
is added if required. Fried smelts are frequently served as garniture
around it.
No. 252. _Sole au gratin._[5]
Cut the fins off a fine fresh sole, make an incision in the back, then
butter a sauté-pan and put two teaspoonfuls of chopped onions in it with
half a glass of white wine, then lay in the sole, cover it with a brown
sauce (No. 1), and sprinkle some brown bread-crumbs over it, with a few
small pieces of butter; then place it in a moderate oven twenty minutes
or half an hour (try when done as before), take it out of the sauté-pan
and dish without a napkin; then put four spoonfuls of stock and two of
brown sauce in the sauté-pan, boil it five minutes, keeping it stirred,
then add the juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms,
one of chopped parsley, one of essence of anchovies, and a little sugar
and cayenne pepper; pour the sauce round the fish, place it again in the
oven for a quarter of an hour, pass the salamander over it and serve
very hot.
No. 253. _Sole à la Poltaise._
Trim a fine sole and make an incision down the back clearing the meat
from the bone, then melt two ounces of butter, and mix with it a
teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped mushrooms, one of
chopped parsley, and a glass of sherry; put the sole in a dish and pour
the butter, etc., over it, sprinkle a few bread crumbs on it and put it
in the oven twenty minutes or half an hour; when done pour a little
anchovy sauce (No. 72) over it, and brown it lightly with the
salamander.
No. 254. _Sole à la Hollandaise._
Plain boil a sole in salt and water and pour the sauce over it (see
Turbot à la Hollandaise, No. 206).
No. 255. _Sole aux fines herbes._
Boil a sole as before (if the sole is very fresh it may be put in
boiling water, but it is best to let it only simmer) in salt and water,
and dish it without a napkin; have ready the following sauce: put in a
stewpan six teaspoonfuls of chopped onions and a piece of butter, fry
the onions a light brown, then add eight tablespoonfuls of brown sauce
(No. 1), and let it boil at the corner of the stove ten minutes, then
add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, half ditto of chopped parsley,
one ditto of essence of anchovies, and the juice of a quarter of a
lemon; pour it over the fish and serve. This sauce must be rather thick
but not too much so.
No. 256. _Sole à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Boil the sole as above and dish it without a napkin; then put four
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and four ditto of bechamel sauce (No.
7) in a stewpan, with four of broth, when it boils add two ounces of
fresh butter, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon,
and a little pepper and salt; pour the sauce over the fish and serve.
No. 257. _Sole a l’Italienne._
Boil a sole as usual, then have ready the following sauce: put two
teaspoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a very little salad
oil, fry them a few minutes, but keep them quite white, drain off the
oil, and add two tablespoonfuls of white wine, ten ditto of white sauce
(No. 7), four ditto of boiled milk, and let it simmer ten minutes at the
corner of the fire, skim it well, then add a teaspoonful of chopped
mushrooms, a little chopped parsley, the juice of half a lemon, and two
tablespoonfuls of cream; mix the whole well together, season it a little
more if required and pour it over the fish.
No. 258. _Soles plain fried._
Lard and oil together is much better to fry in than butter, for the milk
that remains in the butter is sure to burn; the only way to use butter
is to clarify it, but that is very expensive, lard by itself being as
good as anything, but be careful that it is clean and not burnt; cut off
the fins of the sole and dip it in flour, then egg and bread-crumb it,
but do not put it in the lard unless it is quite hot, which you may
easily ascertain by throwing a drop of water in it; if it is hot enough
it will make a hissing noise; allow the sole ten minutes to fry, or
less, according to the size, dish it upon a napkin, garnish with
parsley, and serve shrimp sauce (No. 73) in a boat.
Observe the above receipt, to fry all kinds of fish, as eels, smelts,
whitings, flounders, perch, gudgeons, &c. Four pounds of lard would be
sufficient, and would do for several occasions.
No. 259. _Sole à la Colbert._
Make an incision in the back of a sole from the head nearly to the tail,
then break the bone in three pieces, bread-crumb it and fry as before;
when done, take out the pieces of bone and fill with the following: lay
two ounces of butter on a plate with half a teaspoonful of chopped
parsley, half ditto of chopped tarragon and chervil, two ditto of lemon
juice, and a little pepper and salt; put about three parts of it into
the sole and mix the remainder with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter,
pour round the fish, which is dished without a napkin; put it in the
oven a few minutes and serve very hot.
No. 260. _Sole à la Meûnière._
Cut the fins off a sole and crimp it on each side by making incisions
across it; then rub half a tablespoonful of salt and chopped onions well
into it, dip it in flour and broil it over a slow fire; then have ready
four pats of butter mixed with the juice of a lemon and a little cayenne
pepper; rub it over the sole, which is previously dished up without a
napkin, turn the sole over once or twice, put it in the oven a minute
and serve very hot.
No. 261. _Sole à la Crème d’Anchois._
Boil a sole as usual, and dish it without a napkin; have ready the
following sauce: put six spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan,
with four of white broth; let it reduce a few minutes; then add an ounce
of anchovy butter, and two spoonfuls of whipped cream; mix it well, and
pour over the fish.
No. 262. _Filets de Soles en matelote._
Fillet two soles in the manner described (see Fillets of brill à la
juive, No. 225), cut each fillet in halves, flour and egg, and
bread-crumb them; fry them of a nice colour in salad oil; when done,
dish them on a border of mashed potatoes, and fill the centre with a
matelote sauce (see Fillets of brill en matelote, No. 226), and serve
very hot.
No. 263. _Filets de Soles au gratin._
Fillet two soles; egg and bread-crumb, and fry as above; dish them on a
thin border of mashed potatoes, pour the following sauce over them, and
cover with bread-crumbs: put twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No.
1) in a stewpan, and when it boils add a tablespoonful of chopped
mushrooms, one do. of Harvey sauce, and one do. of essence of anchovies;
let it boil five minutes, season with a little sugar; add two yolks of
eggs, put it in the oven ten minutes, pass the salamander over it, and
serve very hot.
No. 264. _Filets de Soles à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Fillet a pair of soles as before (but neither cut them or bread-crumb
them), rub an ounce of butter into a sauté-pan, then lay in the fillets,
the skin side downwards, and sprinkle chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and
the juice of a lemon over them; then place them over a slow fire; turn
them when about half done (they must be kept quite white); when done,
lay the fillets on a cloth, cut them in halves slantingly, and dish them
round without a napkin; then place them in a hot closet; then put ten
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and two do. of white sauce (No. 7) into
the same sauté-pan, with a little more lemon-juice and chopped parsley;
boil it two minutes; then add two pats of butter, a little sugar and
salt, and four tablespoonfuls of milk; pour over the fillets, and serve
directly.
No. 265. _Filets de Soles à la Hollandaise._
Fillet two soles and lay them in a sauté-pan, well buttered, sprinkle a
little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon over them; place them
on the fire, and cook them quite white; when done, lay them on a cloth,
cut them in halves slantingly, and dish them round; when ready to serve,
pour some sauce Hollandaise over them (No. 66).
No. 266. _Filets de Soles à l’Italienne._
Fillet two soles, and cook them as in the last; dish them up in the same
manner; place them in the hot closet; then put a teaspoonful of chopped
eschalots in the sauté-pan, with two spoonfuls of white wine; stir it
over the fire a minute, then add six tablespoonfuls of melted butter,
two of white sauce, and four of white broth, with a teaspoonful of
chopped mushrooms, half do. chopped parsley, a little lemon-juice, and
two spoonfuls of cream; when ready to serve, pour the sauce over the
fish.
No. 267. _Filets de Soles en ravigote._
Fillet and dress the soles as for Filet de soles à l’Italienne; then put
ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and six of white broth in the
sauté-pan; then mix half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half do. of
chopped chervil, and half do. of chopped tarragon, with two ounces of
fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, and two teaspoonfuls of tarragon
vinegar; boil the sauce in the sauté-pan three minutes, keeping it
stirred, then add the butter thus prepared with it; stir it over the
fire another minute, and when ready to serve, pour it over the fillets.
No. 268. _Filets de Sole à la Orlie._
Fillet two soles and cut them in halves lengthwise, then lay them in a
basin with an onion cut in slices, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaf,
two wine-glasses of vinegar, and a little pepper and salt; let it remain
thus two hours, then dry them in a cloth; flour, egg, and bread-crumb
them, and fry in oil; dish them round without a napkin; then put four
tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37) in a stewpan, with one of Harvey
sauce, and two of good stock; boil three minutes; finish with a little
sugar, and pour it in the dish, but not over the fish. This sauce
requires to be rather thin.
No. 269. _Filets de Soles à la Réform._
Fillet two soles, beat each fillet flat; have ready a dozen oysters,
blanched and chopped, which mix with four tablespoonfuls of forcemeat of
whitings (No. 124), and a little chopped eschalots; spread some on one
fillet, then cover another over it, and so on till they are all done;
put a little oil in a sauté-pan, with a little chopped eschalots, and a
glass of white wine; lay your fillets in, season with a little pepper
and salt, and put them in a moderate oven until tender; turn them over,
and cut each into large diamonds, dress them round (points upwards) upon
a dish, and put them in the hot closet; put ten tablespoonfuls of melted
butter, and six do. of milk into the sauté-pan; place it over the fire,
and when it boils pass it through a tammie; place it again on the fire,
boil it a few minutes, add two pats of butter, and stir it till quite
smooth; pour the sauce over the fillets, sprinkle some gherkins and ham
(cut in strips half an inch long) over, and serve very hot.
No. 270. _Filets de Soles aux Huîtres._
Fillet and dress two soles as for Filets de sole à la Hollandaise (No.
265), dish them round, then put a dozen and a half of oysters lightly
blanched in the sauté-pan, with ten tablespoonfuls of oyster sauce (No.
69), and four do. of milk; boil five minutes, season with a little
cayenne pepper and salt, if required, and pour over the fillets.
No. 271. _Cod-fish au naturel._
Crimped cod, like crimped salmon, is preferable to the plain, and is
better cut in slices and cooked, than to cook the whole fish; to boil it
well you should have the water boiling (with one pound of salt to every
six quarts of water); when you put in the fish, then draw it to the
corner of the stove, and let it simmer twenty minutes or half an hour;
when it is done, the bone in the centre will leave with facility; be
careful you do not boil it too much, for it would cause the fish to eat
tough and stringy, and observe in boiling cod that is not crimped, to
put more salt in the water, it will make the fish eat firmer.
No. 272. _Cabillaud aux Huîtres._
Boil your fish as above, dress it on a napkin, and garnish with some
nice sprigs of double parsley, and serve the oyster sauce (No. 69) in a
boat.
No. 273. _Cabillaud à la Béchamel._
Boil two slices of cod as before, dish them without a napkin, and have
ready the following sauce: put nearly a quart of Bechamel sauce (No. 7)
in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pint of white stock; stir it over the
fire, to reduce ten minutes, then add two teaspoonfuls of essence of
anchovies, a little cayenne pepper and sugar; finish with a gill of
whipped cream, and pour over the fish.
No. 274. _Cabillaud à la Collégienne._
Boil the fish as before, and dish it without a napkin; then have ready
the following sauce: put an ounce and a half of butter in a stewpan, and
mix two ounces of flour with it over the fire; then add a quart of milk,
with two eschalots peeled, an anchovy well washed, a little salt and
cayenne pepper; let it boil fifteen minutes, keeping it stirred, and
pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan; then add a pint of
muscles (that have been blanched and bearded), two hard boiled eggs cut
in dice, and three teaspoonfuls of lemon-juice; season rather high, and
when ready to serve pour over the fish.
No. 275. _Cabillaud à la Noble Dame._
Boil two slices of cod as before, dish them without a napkin, and pour a
good Hollandaise sauce (No. 66) over them; then have ready two soles
filleted, each fillet cut in halves which egg and bread-crumb, and fry
(of a light brown colour) in oil; dress them round the cod-fish to
garnish it, and sprinkle a few sprigs of chervil over it; this dish is
very good, and looks exceedingly well if nicely done.
No. 276. _Stewed Cod à l’Ecossaise._
Put into a large stewpan four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, twenty
do. of melted butter, two of Harvey sauce, two of essence of anchovies,
and one of Chili vinegar; put in two slices of cod, start them over a
sharp fire, and, when boiling, place them to simmer for half an hour;
then turn them, and let them simmer another quarter of an hour; dress
them on a dish, without a napkin; then put a little sugar in the
stewpan, and reduce the sauce till rather thick; pour it over the fish,
and serve.
No. 277. _Cabillaud entier à la Bourgeoise._
Procure a crimped cod-fish about ten pounds in weight, cover it over
with salt on a dish, and let it remain six hours; then put it in a
fish-kettle, and pour two gallons of boiling water over it; let it
simmer an hour very gently; take it up, drain it well, and dish it
without a napkin, garnish with twenty very white young potatoes; then
put half a pound of fresh butter in a stewpan; place it over the fire,
and when it is melted add a saltspoonful of salt, a little white pepper,
the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the fish.
No. 278. _Cabillaud à la Rachel._
Salt a crimped cod as above, then put it into a large baking dish, with
four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, and three glasses of Madeira wine
(but previously fill the incisions of the fish with a forcemeat of cod’s
liver, No. 126); put it in a moderate oven, and when half done, take it
out; egg it over and bread-crumb, then put it in the oven again; it will
require an hour and a quarter to bake; when done, dish it without a
napkin, and pour a Beyrout sauce (see Saumon à la Beyrout, No. 245) over
it without garniture.
No. 279. _Slices of Cod à la Montefiore._
Boil two slices of cod, and let it get cold; then cover them with
forcemeat of cod’s liver (No. 126), egg and bread-crumb them, put them
in the oven half an hour, and brown them lightly with the salamander;
dish them without a napkin, and pour anchovy sauce (No. 72) round them.
No. 280. _Cabillaud à la Crème_ (_gratiné_.)
See Turbot, (No. 211.)
No. 281. _Cabillaud à la Provençale._
See Turbot au gratin à la Provençale (No. 215).
No. 282. _Cabillaud à la Juive._
Put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, and two do. of salad oil in a
stewpan; pass them over a fire five minutes; then add twenty
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two do. of Harvey sauce, two do. of
essence of anchovies, and two of Chili vinegar; lay in two slices of
cod, and proceed as for stewed cod à l’Ecossaise; reduce the sauce, and
pour over them; garnish with quenelles of cod’s liver (No. 126), and
onions sliced and boiled.
No. 283. _Cabillaud à la Hollandaise._
Boil the fish, dress it without a napkin, pour a sauce Hollandaise (No.
66) over, and sprinkle some chopped parsley upon it.
No. 284. _Salt Fish._
Choose the fish with a black skin, and be particular in soaking it well;
to boil, put it in a fish-kettle with plenty of cold water, place it
over the fire, and the moment it boils take it off, put the cover on the
kettle and let it simmer a few minutes, but if it boils the fish would
be hard and thready, when done dish it on a napkin, garnish with plain
boiled parsnips and parsley, and serve egg sauce (No. 76) in a boat.
No. 285. _Salt Cod à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Boil a nice square piece of fish as above directed, dish it without a
napkin, and have ready the following sauce: put twenty tablespoonfuls of
melted butter in a stewpan, and when it boils add a quarter of a pound
of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), stir it till it becomes smooth, and
pour the sauce over.
No. 286. _Salt Fish à la Bourgmestre._
Boil a square piece of fish as above, dish it without a napkin, then
melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a stewpan over the fire,
and when half melted add a little pepper, a little scraped garlic, the
juice of half a lemon, and when very hot four hard-boiled eggs cut in
slices, pour over the fish.
No. 287. _Red Mullets à l’Italienne._
Of all fish this is one of the most recherché when in good order, it is
of a nice red colour, and the eyes look very bright.
Make a paper box the length of the fish, then oil the box and lay in the
fish, season it with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and lemon
juice, and pour two tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) over each,
then put it or them, (if more than one) in a moderate oven and bake
twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size, and when done,
slightly brown them with the salamander; serve them in the paper boxes
with an Italian sauce (No. 31) poured over them.
No. 288. _Red Mullets à la Vénitienne._
Put into a deep sauté-pan a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, one
ditto of chopped parsley, one ditto of chopped tarragon, one of chopped
mushrooms, two of salad oil, and four of sherry; then lay in four nice
mullets, (well cleaned), season with a little pepper and salt, cover
them with a sheet of white paper, and place them in a slow oven for an
hour, turn them over and dress them in a dish without a napkin; then put
twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), with one of essence of
anchovy, and a little sugar, boil it about ten minutes and pour over the
fish.
No. 289. _Red Mullets à la Ravigote._
Put the mullets in boxes and dress as for Italienne, but make the sauce
thus: place a quarter of a pound of fresh butter on a plate with a
tablespoonful of chopped tarragon, one ditto of chopped chervil, one
ditto of lemon juice, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar, mix all well
together; have ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) boiling in a
stewpan, and throw the other ingredients into it, stir it over the fire
till quite smooth, and pour over your mullets in the paper boxes. If too
thick add a little milk.
No. 290. _Fillets of Mullets à la Montesquieu._
Take four fish and fillet them by passing the knife from the back of the
head to the tail, keeping close to the bone, then cut each fillet in
halves, then rub a quarter of a pound of butter on the bottom of a deep
sauté-pan and lay in the fillets; season with a little pepper, salt,
chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry; place them
over a brisk fire five minutes, then turn them gently and place them
again on the fire for five minutes, dress them round on a border of
mashed potatoes, but be careful not to break them, as they are very
delicate; put ten spoonfuls of melted butter in the sauté-pan, with four
of milk, and a little sugar and salt; set it over the fire, boil it
three minutes, keeping it stirred, and then pour over the fillets.
No. 291. _Fillets of Mullets à l’Italienne._
Take four fish, fillet and dress as above, serve an Italian sauce (No.
31) over them.
No. 292. _Fillets of Mullets à la Vénitienne._
Fillet and dress the fillets as above, and sauce as for mullet à la
Vénitienne (No. 288.)
No. 293. _Fillets of Mullets sauce Ravigote._
Fillet and dress the fish as before, with the exception of the sherry
and sauce, as for mullets à la Ravigote.
No. 294. _Fillets of Mullets à la Mazarine._
Fillet and dress the fish as in the last, and pour a sauce Mazarine,
(see turbot à la Mazarine, No. 207) over them.
No. 295. _Whitings, to fry them._
Every person knows the delicacy of this fish, and its lightness as food,
especially invalids; it is generally well received at all tables: to fry
them well, dry them in a cloth, then throw them in flour, egg and
bread-crumb, fry them in hot lard, observing the directions for frying
soles; serve them on a napkin with shrimp sauce in a boat, and garnish
with parsley.
No. 296. _Whiting au gratin._
Have the whitings skinned, with their tails turned into their mouths;
butter a sauté-pan and put in the whitings, with a tablespoonful of
chopped onions and four tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) over each;
sprinkle bread crumbs over them, and a little clarified butter, and put
them in a moderate oven half an hour; take them out and dress them on a
dish without a napkin; then put twelve tablespoonfuls more brown sauce
into the sauté-pan, with a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, one ditto
chopped parsley, one ditto essence of anchovy, a little pepper, salt,
and sugar, boil ten minutes, pour round the fish, and pass the
salamander over them. (See note to No. 252.)
No. 297. _Whitings broiled._
Have the fish skinned and curled round, flour it, and lay it on the
gridiron over a moderate fire; it will take about twenty minutes; dish
it on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve plain melted butter in a
boat. Season when near done.
No. 298. _Whitings broiled à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Broil the fish as above, dish them without a napkin, have six
tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, put it to boil, then add
two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), stir it till it is
melted, but do not let it boil, and pour over the fish.
No. 299. _Fillets of Whitings fried._
Take the fillets of six small whitings which have not been skinned, dip
them in flour, egg, and bread-crumb them, and fry in very hot lard;
garnish with fried parsley, and serve with sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) in
a boat.
No. 300. _Fillets of Whitings à la Hollandaise._
Fillet six whitings as above, cut them in halves, then butter a
sauté-pan, and lay in the fillets skin side downwards; season with a
little pepper, salt, and lemon juice, place them over a slow fire five
minutes, turn them and place them again on the fire; when done, dish
them round on a dish, and pour some sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) over
them.
No. 301. _Fillets of Whitings à l’Italienne._
Fillet and dress the fish as in the last, adding chopped parsley to the
seasoning, and make the sauce as for Filets de soles à l’Italienne (No.
266).
No. 302. _Whiting à l’Huile._
Fry the whiting in very hot salad oil, instead of lard, of a very light
brown colour; dish it on a napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve
shrimp sauce in a boat.
No. 303. _Mackerel._
The mackerel is a useful fish, and makes its appearance upon the tables
of all classes; for whilst its delicious flavour makes it a favourite of
the rich, its cheapness frequently renders it economical food for the
poor. To plain boil them put them in boiling salt and water, let them
simmer twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size; dish on a
napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve fennel sauce (No. 75) in a boat.
No. 304. _Mackerel à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Cut a mackerel up the back close to the bone, season it with pepper and
salt, (a little cayenne if approved,) butter the skin well, and lay it
on the gridiron; it will take about twenty minutes over a moderate fire
to broil; when it is done have ready a quarter of a pound of maître
d’hôtel butter (No. 79), place the mackerel on a dish without a napkin,
put half the butter in the incision at the back, and spread the rest
over it; place it in the oven a few minutes and serve very hot.
No. 305. _Fillets of Mackerel à la Dumas._
Fillet your mackerel as you would whitings by passing the knife down the
back bone, lay your fillets in a buttered sauté-pan, (the skin side
upwards), with two tablespoonfuls of oil, two of port wine, and season
with a little pepper and salt; place them over a sharp fire ten minutes,
then turn them and place them over again five minutes longer, or till
they are done, take them out, cut each fillet in halves, and dish them
round on a dish without a napkin; then put twelve tablespoonfuls of
brown sauce (No. 1) into the sauté-pan, let it boil five minutes, then
add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, half ditto of chopped parsley, a
little lemon juice, and a small quantity of sugar; chop the roe of the
mackerel and put in the sauce, let it simmer five minutes, pour it over
the fillets, cover them lightly with bread-crumbs, brown lightly with
the salamander and serve very hot. The sauce must not be too thick.
No. 306. _Mackerel au beurre noir._
Open your mackerel at the back, season with pepper and salt, butter all
over, and lay quite flat on the gridiron, broil it about a quarter of an
hour over a moderate fire, and place it in a dish without a napkin, then
put half a pound of butter in a stewpan, place it over a sharp fire till
it becomes black, (but not burnt,) throw in half a handful of picked
parsley, fry it crisp, and pour it over the fish, then put four
tablespoonfuls of common vinegar into the stewpan, boil it half a
minute, season with pepper and salt, and pour likewise over the fish,
put it in the oven five minutes and serve very hot.
No. 307. _Fillets of Mackerel à la Venitienne._
Fillet your mackerel and cut each fillet in halves, butter a sauté-pan
and lay them in skin-side downwards; season with a little pepper, salt,
and chopped eschalots; place them on a slow fire five minutes, then turn
them, and place them again on the fire ten minutes longer, but keep them
quite white; dress them on a dish without a napkin in the form of a
star; put ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) in the sauté-pan,
with half a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, half ditto of
chopped truffles, and a tablespoonful of port wine; let it boil a few
minutes, pour over the fillets and serve.
No. 308. _Dublin Bay Haddock à la bonne Femme._
This fish used to be very difficult to procure fresh in London, but the
rapidity of steam conveyance by sea and land, brings it almost alive
into the London markets. I must highly recommend this both for its
firmness and its lightness; it is usually cooked in one of the two
following ways, but it may be plain boiled and served with shrimp,
maître d’hôtel, Hollandaise, or any other sauces: cut four or five
incisions on each side of a Dublin Bay haddock, about an inch deep, put
it in a deep dish and cover it well with salt, let it remain so about
twelve hours, then put it in boiling water and let it simmer thirty or
forty minutes, (if the fish weighs six or seven pounds,) dish it on a
napkin, garnish with parsnips plain boiled, and parsley, and serve egg
sauce (No. 76) in a boat.
No. 309. _Dublin Bay Haddock, baked._
Fill the belly of the fish with stuffing (No. 127), sew it up with
packthread, and truss it with its tail in its mouth; rub a quarter of a
pound of butter over it, set it on a baking sheet, put it in a warmish
oven and bake it three quarters of an hour; when done, dress it on a
dish without a napkin, and pour a Beyrout sauce round it--(for sauce,
see No. 64).
No. 310. _Common Haddock, plain._
This is a very serviceable, light, wholesome fish, and may be obtained
like soles or whitings, at any time of the year; to dress them plain put
them in boiling water well salted, and let them simmer about twenty
minutes, (or according to the size,) dress on a napkin and serve shrimp
sauce in a boat.
No. 311. _Haddock à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Cut the fish open at the back on each side of the bone, season it with
pepper and salt, dip it in flour, and lay it on a gridiron over a
moderate fire, turning it very carefully; it will take about twenty
minutes to cook, dress it on a dish without a napkin; then have ready a
quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 69), put half of it in
the back of the fish, and put the fish in the oven, put the remainder of
the butter in the stewpan with six tablespoonfuls of rather thin melted
butter; when quite hot pour it round the fish and serve.
No. 312. _Haddock à la Walter Scott._
Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, one ditto of Harvey sauce, one
ditto of catsup, one ditto of sherry, and twenty ditto of melted butter
into a middling-sized stewpan, place it over the fire and let it boil
fifteen minutes, keeping it stirred, then have ready a good sized
haddock, cut it in four pieces, put it into the stewpan with the sauce,
place it over a slow fire for twenty minutes, or longer if necessary,
when done, dress it on a dish without a napkin; reduce the sauce a
little more if required, then add a little sugar and essence of anchovy,
pour it over the fish and serve.
No. 313. _Fillets of Haddock à la St. Paul._
Fillet your fish the same as a whiting, dip the fillets in flour, egg,
and bread-crumb, and fry in hot lard, or oil, in a sauté-pan, dress them
on a napkin, garnish with fried watercress, and serve with two ounces of
anchovy butter melted, but not boiled, in a boat.
No. 314. _Fillets of Haddock à la Hollandaise._
Fillet your fish as above, and proceed as for fillets of whiting à la
Hollandaise (see No. 300).
No. 315. _Gurnet and Pipers._
Though this fish is not much appreciated, I must say it is deserving of
more repute than it possesses in the opinion of epicures, for when fresh
and well dressed it deserves to rank as one of the first of the
second-class fishes; to dress it plain it is put in boiling water, and
simmered twenty or thirty minutes or more, according to the size; dress
it on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve anchovy sauce in a
boat.
No. 316. _Roast Gurnet._
Fill the belly of the fish with stuffing (No. 127), sew it up with
packthread, and truss the fish with its tail in its mouth, butter a
sauté-pan, and put two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots and a glass
of sherry into it, egg the fish with a paste brush, bread-crumb, and lay
a few pieces of butter upon it; then put it in the sauté-pan, and place
it in the oven half an hour, or more if required; when done, dish it
without a napkin, first drawing out the packthread, then put twelve
tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) in the sauté-pan, with four ditto
of broth, a quarter ditto of sugar, and a half ditto of essence of
anchovy; boil it five minutes, pour it round the fish, pass the
salamander over it and serve.
No. 317. _Fillets of Gurnets en matelote._
Skin and fillet four small gurnets (in the same manner as you would
whitings), cut each fillet in halves, egg and bread-crumb, and fry them
in oil in a sauté-pan; dress them on a border of mashed potatoes, and
serve a sauce matelote (No. 262) in the centre.
No. 318. _Fillets of Gurnets à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Skin and fillet the fish as above, then butter a sauté-pan and lay the
fillets in it, season with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and
lemon juice; place them on a slow fire five minutes, turn them and put
them again on the fire till done, dress them round on a dish without a
napkin, and finish the sauce as for fillets of soles à la maître d’hôtel
(No. 264), and pour over the fillets.
No. 319. _Fillets of Gurnets à l’Italienne._
Skin, fillet, cook, and dress the fish as before for sauce, (see fillets
of soles à la Italienne, No. 266.)
No. 320. _Herrings broiled, sauce Digon._
These fish are fresh when the eyes look bright, the gills red, and the
scales glossy; the delicacy of these fish prevent them being dressed in
any other way than broiled or boiled, they may certainly be
bread-crumbed and fried, but very few persons like them; they are best
in the following way: wipe them well and cut three incisions on each
side, dip them in flour, and broil them over a moderate fire; when done,
sprinkle a little salt over them, dish them on a napkin, garnish with
parsley, and serve the following sauce in a boat: put eight
tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with two ditto of French
mustard, two pats of butter, and a little pepper and salt, when boiling
and the pats are melted, pour the sauce into the boat and serve.
No. 321. _Herrings plain boiled._
Put two quarts of water to boil (in a stewpan), with half a pound of
salt; when boiling put in six or eight herrings, stand them on the
corner of the fire to simmer for a quarter of an hour, take them up,
dish them on a napkin, and serve shrimp, anchovy, or sauce Hollandaise
in a boat; these fish require to be served the moment they are dressed,
or they become heavy and indigestible.
No. 322. _Boiled Herrings à la Crème._
Boil the herrings as above, and dish them without a napkin; have ready
the following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of the best cream in a
stewpan, with a little pepper and salt, and when nearly boiling add two
ounces of fresh butter and the juice of half a lemon; stir it quick and
pour over the fish.
No. 323. _Skate plain boiled._
This fish with some persons is a great favourite; it is usually
crimped, cut in slices, and rolled round, but very seldom dressed whole;
to boil it put in salt and water as usual when the water boils, and let
it simmer twenty minutes, then take it up, dish it on a napkin, garnish
with parsley, and serve with anchovy sauce in a boat.
No. 324. _Skate au Beurre noir._
Boil the skate as above, drain it well, and dish it without a napkin;
put half a pound of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire till it
gets quite black, then fry half a handful of parsley (that has been well
washed and picked) in it quite crisp, and pour over the fish, then put
five tablespoonfuls of vinegar, with a little pepper and salt, into the
same stewpan, boil it a minute, pour over the fish, put it in the oven
five minutes and serve very hot.
No. 325. _Skate à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Boil the fish as previously, dish it up without a napkin, then put
twelve tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, and when it
boils add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79) to it;
stir it till the butter is melted and pour over the fish.
No. 326. _Smelts, to fry them._
Select these fishes very fresh, they being so very delicate they must
not be kept more than one day in summer or two in winter; their
appearance when fresh is very silvery, the eyes are very bright, and
they smell like violets or cucumbers, but if the belly looks at all
black they are not fresh, and consequently not wholesome; the most
common method of dressing them is to fry them; dry them well in a cloth,
and dip them in flour; then have half an ounce of butter melted in a
stewpan, into which break the yolks of two eggs, with which wash the
smelts over with a paste brush, dip them in bread-crumbs, fry in very
hot lard, dress them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with
shrimp sauce in a boat.
No. 327. _Smelts à la Juive._
Egg and bread-crumb the fish as before, fry in salad oil (very hot),
dress them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve without sauce.
No. 328. _Smelts à la Boulangère._
Dry the fish in a napkin, dip them in very thick cream, and immediately
afterwards in flour, so that it forms a paste round them; fry them in
very white hot lard, dress them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and
serve without sauce.
No. 329. _Atelettes Eperlans à la Menagère_
Put ten smelts upon a silver skewer, dry them in flour, then oil your
gridiron and lay the fish upon it, broil them ten minutes over a clear
fire, dress them on a dish without a napkin, and pour some butter
clarified, with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, over them. In
France these fishes are served for second course in the following way:
have four small silver skewers, (atelettes,) and run them through the
eyes of the fish, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in very hot lard
five minutes; serve them on a napkin without any sauce; they take the
place of a roast.
No. 330. _Buisson d’Eperlans._
Truss the fishes by putting their tails into their mouths, season them
with pepper and salt, egg and bread-crumb and fry them in very hot lard,
dress them on a napkin pyramidically, garnish with fried parsley, and
serve plain melted butter in a boat.
No. 331. _Flounders, Water Souchet._
Put a pint of water into a deep sauté-pan, with half a tablespoonful of
salt, and a little pepper, and forty small sprigs of parsley; when
nearly boiling have ready six small flounders, (cut in halves in a
slanting direction), and put them into the sauté-pan, let them simmer
about twelve minutes, take them up and dress them on a dish without a
napkin; then add a little sugar to the liquor they were boiled in,
reduce it five minutes, and pour over the fish; half broth may be used
with half a pint of water instead of a pint.
No. 332. _Flounders à la Greenwich._
Dry them on a cloth, then dip the white part of them in yolks of eggs,
then in flour and bread-crumbs mixed together, fry them in hot lard,
dress them on a napkin, with fried parsley in the middle; serve anchovy
sauce in a boat; six small fish are enough for this dish.
No. 333. _Flounders plain fried._
Dry them, dip in flour, egg, and bread-crumb, and fry them in hot lard;
dress them on a napkin, garnished with parsley, and serve shrimp sauce
(No. 73) in a boat.
No. 334. _Flounders broiled._
Dry them and dip them in flour, put them on a gridiron over a moderate
fire, when done dress them on a napkin, and serve shrimp sauce in a
boat.
No. 335. _Plaice._
May be dressed like soles, (au gratin,) but the usual way is to boil or
fry, and serve on a napkin with anchovy sauce in a boat. It is a watery
fish and seldom admitted in the kitchens of the wealthy.
No. 336. _Whitebait._
This very delicate little fish is cooked in the most simple manner; dry
them in a couple of cloths, shake the cloths at the corner, but do not
touch the fish with your hands; then have ready an equal quantity of
bread-crumbs and flour on a dish, throw the fish into it, toss them
lightly over with the hands, take them out immediately, put them in a
wire basket, and fry them in very hot lard; one minute will cook them;
turn them out on to a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over them, dish them
on a napkin and serve very hot.
These Liliputian fishes never can be had at home in the perfection you
get them at Greenwich or Blackwall, where they are obtained as soon as
caught, and dressed by persons in constant practice.
No. 337. _Sturgeon._
The flesh of this fish is or ought to be absolutely white; if red,
nothing can be done with it; though this fish is much in vogue in
France, in England it is thought nothing of, for which reason I shall
only give two receipts how to dress it; no fish requires so much
cooking; to dress it plain it is merely boiled in salt and water, a
pound of the fish requiring half an hour, dish on a napkin, garnish with
parsley, and serve anchovy sauce in a boat. It is cut in slices an inch
in thickness to boil.
No. 338. _Sturgeon à la Chancelière._
Procure two pieces of middling-sized fish about five inches in
thickness, then prepare the following marinade: put two onions, one
carrot, one turnip, six eschalots, four bay-leaves (cut up very small,)
six cloves, two blades of mace, and two tablespoonfuls of oil, in a
stewpan, pass it over the fire ten minutes, keeping it stirred, then add
four wineglassfuls of vinegar, four of sherry, and three pints of
broth; boil altogether twenty minutes, then lay in the fish, cover the
stewpan, and put it in a slow oven for four hours; let it remain in the
stock till ready to serve, dish it without a napkin, and have ready the
following sauce: put twenty tablespoonfuls of thick white sauce (No. 7)
in a stewpan with twenty of the stock the fish was cooked in, let it
reduce to two thirds, then pass it through a tammie into another
stewpan, and add twenty blanched muscles, twenty olives, twenty
mushrooms, two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, half a one of sugar,
and a little cayenne; when hot pour over the fish. The fish dressed this
way may be served with matelote, maître d’hôtel, or Mazarine sauce.
OF SHELL FISH.
No. 339. _Lobsters._
The middling-sized ones are preferable to the very large ones; the meat
is more delicate; plain boiling in salt and water is all they require,
or sea water if it can be obtained; though the dressing of this fish is
so very simple you very seldom meet with them boiled to perfection;
often they are over done, then they have lost their succulence, and eat
tough and thready; but if, on the contrary, they are under done, they
are very unwholesome and unpalateable; to avoid this mistake I will here
give the proper time to boil them; put a lobster weighing one pound into
boiling water and let it boil a quarter of an hour; if the lobster
weighs two pounds it will require half an hour, and so on in
proportion; this is one of the most useful shell fish employed in
cooking, as may be seen by the different receipts for fish.
No. 340. _Crabs._
This is also a very delicate fish; it is boiled in the same manner as a
lobster, only allowing five minutes longer to each pound, but small ones
are useless; they are usually eaten cold with oil and vinegar; to send
them to table, dress the meat in the back shell by mixing the soft part
with a few bread-crumbs, seasoning it with a little pepper and salt, and
putting it in the centre of the shell; then pick the flesh from the
large claw with a fork, and filling up the two ends, separating it from
the other with some red spawn, place it upon a dish, surround it with
the small claws in a circle, and garnish with parsley.
No. 341. _Muscles._
Though very little in use, the flavour of this fish is very delicious in
many sauces; many people are afraid to eat them, but with care there is
not the slightest danger if prepared in the following manner: wash them
well in several waters, and be particular in taking off all the threads
that hang to the joints of the shell, put them in a stewpan with two
onions (sliced), four cloves, two bay-leaves, and a handful of parsley;
set them on a brisk fire and cover them over, toss them over now and
then, and when they open of themselves they are done; turn them out of
the stewpan, lift off the top shells and take out the fish, beard them
and be particular that no small crabs remain in them (as they are
supposed to be the unwholesome part), put them in a basin, strain their
own liquor over them, and put them by for use. In July and August these
fish may be omitted.
No. 342. _Oysters._
The English green oysters are the best that are known; the latter end of
August is about the time an epicure would begin to eat them; the small
ones are the best for table, and the large ones for culinary purposes;
to blanch them open them with care, and put them in a stewpan with their
own liquor; let them set, but they must not boil; beard them, strain
their own liquor over them in a basin, put them by and use where
described.
No. 343. _Pike roasted._
This fish in France is found daily upon the tables of the first
epicures, but the quality of this fish there appears much more delicate
than here. But perhaps the reason of its being more in vogue there is,
that other fish are more scarce; not being so much in use here, (that
is, in London,) but in the country, where gentlemen have sport in
catching them, they are much more thought of, and to them, perhaps, the
following receipts may be the most valuable. To dress it plain it is
usually baked, as follows: having well cleaned the fish stuff it with
the stuffing for fish (No. 127), and sew the belly up with packthread;
butter a sauté-pan, put the fish into it and place it in the oven for an
hour or more, according to the size of it; when done dish it without a
napkin and pour anchovy sauce round it; this fish, previous to its being
baked, must be trussed with its tail in its mouth, four incisions cut on
each side, and well buttered over.
No. 344. _Pike à la Chambord._
The large fish are the only ones fit for this dish (which is much
thought of in France). Have the fish well cleaned, and lard it in a
square on one side with bacon, put it in a fish-kettle, the larded side
upwards, and prepare the following marinade: slice four onions, one
carrot, and one turnip, and put them in a stewpan with six bay-leaves,
six cloves, two blades of mace, a little thyme, basil, a bunch of
parsley, half a pound of lean ham, and half a pound of butter; pass it
over a slow fire twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; then add half a
bottle of Madeira wine, a wineglassful of vinegar, and six quarts of
broth; boil altogether an hour, then pass it through a sieve and pour
the liquor into the kettle over the fish; set the fish on the fire to
stew for an hour or more, according to the size, but take care the
marinade does not cover the fish, moisten the larded part now and then
with the stock, and put some burning charcoal on the lid of the kettle;
when done glaze it lightly, dish it without a napkin, and have ready the
following sauce: put a pint of the stock your fish was stewed in (having
previously taken off all the fat) into a stewpan, with two glasses of
Madeira wine, reduce it to half, then add two quarts of brown sauce (No.
1), keep it stirred over the fire till the sauce adheres to the back of
the wooden spoon, then add the roes of four carp or mackarel (cut in
large pieces, but be careful not to break them), twenty heads of very
white mushrooms, twenty cockscombs, twelve large quenelles of whiting
(No. 124), and finish with a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies and
half a one of sugar, pour the sauce round the fish, arranging the
garniture with taste, add twelve crawfish to the garniture, having
previously taken off all the small claws; serve very hot.
This dish I dare say will be but seldom made in this country, on account
of its complication, but I thought proper to give it on account of the
high estimation in which it is held in France; I must however observe
that I have omitted some of the garniture which would make it still more
expensive, and if there should be any difficulty in getting what
remains, the sauce is very good without.
No. 345. _Pike en matelote._
Stuff and bake the fish as before; when done, dress it without a napkin,
and pour a sauce matelote (see Saumon en matelote marinière, No. 239) in
the middle and round the fish, and serve very hot. Or the fish may be
stewed as in the last.
No. 346. _Pike à la Hollandaise._
Boil the fish in salt and water, in the same manner as cod-fish; drain
it well, dish it without a napkin, pour a sauce Hollandaise over it.
(For sauce, see Turbot à la Hollandaise, No. 206.)
No. 347. _Small Pike à la Meunière._
Crimp a small pike, it must not weigh more than two pounds, but smaller
if you can get it, and proceed exactly as for Sole à la meunière (No.
260), but allow it more time.
No. 348. _Pike with caper sauce._
Boil the fish as before, and have ready caper sauce made as follows: put
fifteen tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, and when it boils
add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; when it melts, add two
tablespoonfuls of liaison (No. 119); let it remain on the fire to
thicken, but do not let it boil; moisten with a little milk if required,
then add two tablespoonfuls of capers, and pour over the fish.
No. 349. _Pike à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Boil the fish as usual, and dish it without a napkin; then put twelve
tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan; and when it is upon the
point of boiling, add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter, and
when it melts pour over and round the fish; serve very hot.
No. 350. _Pike à l’Egyptienne._
Cut two onions, two turnips, one carrot, one head of celery, and one
leek into slices; put them into a large stewpan with some parsley,
thyme, bay-leaves, and a pint of port wine; then have your fish ready
trussed, with its tail in its mouth; put it into the stewpan, with the
vegetables; add three pints of broth, and set it on a slow fire to stew,
with some live charcoal upon the lid; try, when done, by running the
knife close in to the back bone; if the meat detaches easily, it is
done; take it out, and place on a baking sheet; dry it with a cloth,
then egg and bread-crumb it; put it in the oven, and salamander it a
light brown; then put twenty tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a
stewpan, with eight of milk, and reduce it five minutes; then add four
gherkins, the whites of four hard-boiled eggs, and two truffles, cut in
very small dice; finish with two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies,
the juice of half a lemon, and four pats of butter; dress the fish
without a napkin, and sauce over.
No. 351. _Fillets of Pike à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Fillet three small pike and dress them in the manner described in
Fillets of mackerel à la Vénitienne (No. 307); dress them round on a
dish without a napkin, and sauce over with the same sauce as Pike à la
maître d’hôtel.
No. 352. _Fillets of Pike en matelote._
If for a dinner for twelve, fillet four small pike; egg and bread-crumb,
and fry in oil; dish them round on a border of mashed potatoes
(previously cutting each fillet in halves) and serve sauce matelote (No.
62) in the centre.
No. 353. _Fillets of Pike à la Meunière._
Fillet four pike as above, cut each fillet in halves, rub some chopped
eschalot into them, dip them in flour, broil them; when done, sauce as
for Sole à la meunière (No. 260). Observe, if you happen to live in the
country where pike is plentiful, you may dish the fillets in as many
ways as soles or any other fish; but I have omitted giving them here,
thinking it useless to fill a useful book with so many repetitions; we
have several ways of dressing pike to be eaten cold in France, which I
have also omitted, as they would be quite useless in this country.
No. 354. _Carp en matelote._
Have your fish ready cleaned, and make four or five incisions on each
side; then put two sliced onions, three sprigs of thyme and parsley, and
half a pint of port wine in a stewpan, or small fish-kettle; season the
fish with pepper and salt, lay it in the stewpan, add four pints of
broth, and place it on a slow fire to stew for an hour (which will be
sufficient for a fish of five pounds weight), or more in proportion to
the size; when done, dress it on a dish, without a napkin; drain it
well, and serve a matelote sauce (No. 62) over it, only use some of the
stock from the fish (having previously taken off all the fat) instead of
plain broth, as directed in that article.
No. 355. _Carp à la Genoise._
Prepare your fish as above, and lay it in your fish-kettle, with two
ounces of salt, half a bottle of port wine, two onions, two turnips, one
leek, one carrot (cut in slices), three bay-leaves, six cloves, two
blades of mace, and a sprig of parsley, cover the fish with white broth;
stew it as before, dress it without a napkin, prepare a sauce Genoise
(No. 63), and pour over it.
No. 356. _Stewed Carp à la Marquise._
Cook the fish as above, and when done, dress it on a dish without a
napkin, and have ready the following sauce: put twenty tablespoonfuls of
white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, reduce it over a fire until rather
thick, then add a gill of whipt cream, two tablespoonfuls of capers, and
two of chopped gherkins; pour over the fish, then sprinkle two
tablespoonfuls of chopped beet-root over it, and serve.
No. 357. _Carp with caper sauce._
Cook the fish as above, and dress it without a napkin; then put
twenty-five tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, and when
nearly boiling add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; stir it till
the butter melts, then add four tablespoonfuls of capers, and pour over.
This sauce must be rather thick.
No. 358. _Carp fried._
Open the fish down the back with a sharp knife from the head to the
tail, cutting off half the head, so that the fish is quite flat; break
the backbone in three places, but allow the roe to remain; then dip the
fish in flour, and fry it in hot lard; dress it on a napkin, garnish
with parsley, and serve plain melted butter, well seasoned, in a boat.
No. 359. _Tench en matelote._
This fish, though not much thought of by our first-rate epicures, is,
according to my opinion, superior to carp; in a matelote it is
excellent.
Have your fish prepared for cooking, and put them into a small
fish-kettle (with a drainer); and if two middle-sized fish, put two
onions, half a carrot, one turnip, three bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley,
four cloves, a blade of mace, ten allspice, half a pint of port wine,
and half a pint of broth in the kettle with them; place them over a
moderate fire, stew them half an hour, or more if required; when done
drain them well; dress without a napkin, and pour a matelote sauce (No.
62) over them.
No. 360. _Tench à la Beyrout._
Stew the fish exactly as above, dress them without a napkin, and pour a
sauce Beyrout (No. 64) over them.
No. 361. _Tench à la Poulette._
Stew the fish as before, only use bucellas instead of port wine; then
peel thirty button onions, pass them in a stewpan (over a fire) with a
little powdered sugar and butter till they are covered with a white
glaze; then add two glasses of bucellas wine, boil it three minutes;
then put twenty tablespoonfuls of white sauce, and ten of the stock from
the fish in with it, and let it simmer on the corner of the fire till
the onions are quite done, keeping it well skimmed; then season with a
little pepper, salt, and sugar, and add twenty muscles (blanched), a
little chopped parsley, and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice; take it off
the fire, stir in four tablespoonfuls of liaison, and pour over the
fish; serve very hot. The sauce requires to be thick enough to well
cover the fish.
No. 362. _Tench sauce aux Moules._
Stew the fish as before, dish it up without a napkin, have ready a
muscle sauce (No. 70) pour it over the fish, and serve very hot.
No. 363. _Tench fried or broiled._
Is very good served with anchovy or shrimp sauce in a boat.
No 364. _Perch à la Hollandaise._
Have three middling-sized fishes ready prepared for cooking; then put
two ounces of butter, two onions (in slices), one carrot (cut small),
some parsley, two bay-leaves, six cloves, and two blades of mace in a
stewpan; pass it five minutes over a brisk fire, then add a quart of
water, two glasses of vinegar, one ounce of salt, and a little pepper;
boil altogether a quarter of an hour, and pass it through a sieve into a
small fish-kettle; then lay the fishes into it, and let them stew twenty
or thirty minutes over a moderate fire; dress them on a dish without a
napkin, and pour a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66) over them.
No. 365. _Perch à la Maître d’Hôtel_
Prepare and cook your fish as above; then put twenty tablespoonfuls of
melted butter in a stewpan, and when it is upon the point of boiling,
add a quarter of a pound of Maître d’Hôtel butter (No. 79) and pour the
sauce over the fish, which dress on a dish without a napkin.
No. 366. _Small Perches en water souchet._
Cut four small fishes in halves, having previously taken off all the
scales, and proceed precisely as for Flounders en water souchet (No.
331).
No. 367. _Small Perches frits au beurre._
Scale and well dry six perches, and make incisions here and there on
each side of them; then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a
sauté-pan, season your fishes with pepper and salt, put them in the
sauté-pan and fry them gently, turning them carefully; when done, dress
them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve without sauce.
In my opinion, they are much better cooked this way than boiled or
stewed; large fish may also be done this way, but they require more
butter, and must cook very slowly.
No. 368. _Trout plain boiled._
Trout that is caught in a river or running stream is preferable to that
caught in a lake or pond; although I have had very fine ones from ponds,
they have invariably tasted muddy; in fact a running stream is better
for all fish in this respect; but still water most affects the flavour
of the trout.
Prepare the fish for cooking, and boil it in salt and water; if it
weighs two pounds, allow it half an hour, and more in proportion; dress
it on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve shrimp-sauce in a boat.
No. 369. _Trout à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Stew the fish like perch, allowing more time in proportion to the size;
dress them on a dish without a napkin, and sauce the same as Perche à la
Maître d’Hôtel (No. 365).
No. 370. _Trout à la Genoise._
Stew the fish as above, dress it on a dish without a napkin, and pour a
sauce Genoise (No. 63) over it.
No. 371. _Baked Trout._
Proceed exactly the same as for baked pike (No. 343.)
No. 372. _Trout à la Beyrout._
Dry your fish with a cloth, flour it, and lay it on the gridiron; broil
it nicely over a moderate fire; when done, peel off all the skin; dish
it without a napkin, and pour a sauce Beyrout (No. 64) over it.
No. 373. _Fillets of Trout à la Mazarine._
Fillet a fish, and cut each fillet in halves; fry it in butter, like
perch, dress it round on a dish, and pour a sauce Mazarine over them.
For sauce, see Turbot à la Mazarine, No. 207, or they may be served with
a matelote sauce in change.
No. 374. _Eels fried._
Cut the eels in pieces about three inches long, dip them in flour, egg
and bread-crumb, and fry them in very hot lard, dress them on a napkin,
garnish with parsley, and serve shrimp-sauce in a boat.
No. 375. _Eels à la Tartare._
Cut the eels and fry as above, have ready some Tartare sauce (No. 38)
upon a cold dish, lay the eels upon it and serve immediately; should the
eels be large they must be three parts stewed before they are fried; dry
them upon a cloth previous to bread-crumbing them.
No. 376. _Spitchcocked Eels._
Take the bones out of the eels by opening them from head to tail, and
cut them in pieces about four inches long, throw them into some flour,
then have ready upon a dish about a couple of handfuls of bread-crumbs,
a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little dried thyme, and a little
cayenne pepper, then egg each piece of eel and bread-crumb them with it,
fry them in very hot lard, dish them on a napkin, and serve shrimp-sauce
in a boat.
No. 377. _Stewed Eels._
Cut the eels in pieces as before, and tie each piece round with
packthread, then put them into a stewpan with an onion, a tablespoonful
of white wine, three cloves, three whole allspice, a bunch of parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf, and a little white broth, sufficient to cover them;
place them over a moderate fire, and let them stew gently for half an
hour or more, if required, (according to the size of the eel,) take them
out, drain them on a napkin, dish them without a napkin, and have ready
the following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan
with four tablespoonfuls of white wine, and eight ditto of brown sauce
(No. 1), let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour, keeping it
stirred, then add a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies and a little
sugar, and pour over your eels.
No. 378. _Eels en matelote._
Stew the eels as above, dress them without a napkin, and pour a sauce
matelote (No. 62) over them. They may also be served with a sauce à la
Beyrout (No. 64).
No. 379. _Lampreys._
Are fish not so often used as eels, though they are remarkably good
eating; but I think they have got out of repute by being so often served
underdone; they may be stewed in the same manner as eels, (only a
lamprey requires double the time stewing that an eel of the same size
would require), and serve with the same sauces, with matelote sauce
especially; if you fry or broil them they must be three parts boiled
beforehand; to try when done run a trussing needle into them, if it goes
in easy they are done.
No. 380. _Crawfish._
These are very favourite little shell-fish, and much used in France, but
seldom served as a dish in this country (they are not good when in
spawn); for a dish have two dozen of them and wash in several waters
(choose them as near as possible of equal sizes), then put them in a
stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, one head of celery,
six bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, six cloves, twelve peppercorns, half
an ounce of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a quarter ditto of
cayenne, two glasses of vinegar, four of sherry, and half a pint of
broth; place them over a very brisk fire for twenty-five minutes,
stirring them occasionally, take them off the fire and let them cool in
their stock, put them in a basin, cover them with the stock, but strain
the vegetables away from them, and use for garnishing where directed; to
make a dish dress them on butter in the form of a bush, mingling very
green double parsley with them.
There are some few other sorts of fresh-water fish not very frequently
used, which may be fried, boiled, or stewed, in some of the ways as
described in the foregoing list.
HORS-D’ŒUVRES, OR DISHES TO BE HANDED ROUND THE TABLE.
No. 381. _Petits Vol-au-Vents à la Moëlle de Bœuf._
Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it half an inch in
thickness, then cut out your vol-au-vents with a fluted cutter rather
larger than a five-shilling piece; have ready a baking sheet, (on which
you have sprinkled some water,) and put your vol-au-vents on it, egg
them over with a paste brush, and cut a top with a small plain cutter,
which is done by dipping the cutter into hot water, and just marking a
ring upon the top of each vol-au-vent, but do not cut it deep, then put
them in a very warm oven, and pay particular attention to the baking of
them, which will occupy about twenty minutes, keep the oven door shut as
much as possible, take them out when done, and with the point of a knife
take off the lid without breaking it, and take out the soft paste
remaining inside, leaving them quite empty, they are then ready for
immediate use; prepare the marrow as follows: take all the marrow from a
beef marrow-bone, in as large pieces as possible, have ready on the fire
a stewpan of boiling water, into which throw the marrow, and let it boil
ten minutes, then take it out carefully and put it in cold water, put a
pint of brown sauce (No. 1) into a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of brown
gravy (No. 135) and a small piece of glaze, and reduce it till it
becomes rather thick, then cut the marrow in dice about a quarter of an
inch square, and two minutes before serving throw it into the sauce,
with two large quenelles (No. 120) also cut in dice, whilst boiling,
previously draining them upon a cloth; warm it quickly, season with a
little salt and sugar if required, fill the vol-au-vents, and dress
them on a napkin pyramidically; serve very hot.
No. 382. _Petits Vol-au-Vents au laitance de Maquereau._
Make the vol-au-vents as in the previous article, put two ounces of
butter into a sauté-pan, rub it over the bottom, have ready four soft
roes of mackerel, then put into the sauté-pan with a little pepper,
salt, chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice; set them over a
moderate fire five minutes, turn them, and when done cut them in small
dice, but let them remain in the sauté-pan, then add eight
tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and two of light broth, a little
sugar, and two or three tablespoonfuls of cream; stir it over the fire
and mix it well without breaking the roes, fill your vol-au-vents, and
serve very hot on a napkin; carp roes may be served in the same manner.
No. 383. _Petits Vol-au-Vents au foie de Raie._
Make the vol-au-vents as above; boil the liver of a skate in salt and
water an hour, let it get cold, put six tablespoonfuls of white sauce
(No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of light stock, and reduce it till
rather thick, then add a little chopped parsley, three tablespoonfuls of
cream, a little white pepper, sugar, and salt, if required; cut the
liver in small dice, with four quenelles (No. 120), put it in the
stewpan, make it hot, but do not stir it much or you will break it, add
a little lemon-juice, fill the vol-au-vents, and serve as before. These
patties, although seldom served, are very excellent if well done and
nicely seasoned.
No. 384. _Petits Vol-au-Vents aux Huîtres._
Prepare the vol-au-vents as before, put eight tablespoonfuls of white
sauce in a stewpan, with a little cayenne pepper, a teaspoonful of
essence of anchovies, two peppercorns, half a blade of mace, and six
tablespoonfuls of liquor from the oysters, reduce it till very thick,
have ready, blanched and bearded, two dozen oysters (No. 342), cut each
oyster in four pieces, put them in the sauce, (previously taking out the
peppercorns and mace,) with a little salt, sugar, and lemon-juice, make
it hot over the fire, add a little cream, but do not let it boil, or the
oysters would become tough and the sauce very thin: fill the
vol-au-vents and serve on a napkin as before.
No. 385. _Petits Vol-au-Vents de Homard._
Prepare the vol-au-vents as usual, put eight tablespoonfuls of white
sauce (No. 7), and four of light stock, in a stewpan, with a little
cayenne pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, boil it
ten minutes, then cut a small hen lobster up in large dice, pound the
red spawn from it with one ounce of butter, pass it through a hair sieve
and mix with the sauce; put in the lobster, make it hot, fill your
vol-au-vent, and serve as before.
N. B. The last four dishes may be made maigre by substituting melted
butter or oyster sauce for white sauce.
No. 386. _Petites Bouchées à la Moëlle de Bœuf._
Are made in the same manner as the petits vol-au-vents, but the paste
must not be more than a quarter of an inch in thickness, and the
bouchées must be cut with a fluted cutter not larger than half-a-crown
piece, bake them in a warmer oven than the vol-au-vents, prepare the
beef marrow, fill and serve the same as No. 381.
No. 387. _Petites Bouchées au laitance de Maquereau._
Make the bouchées as before, and prepare the mackerel roes the same as
for petits vol-au-vents (No. 382).
No. 388. _Petites Bouchées au foie de Raie._
Prepare them as usual, and proceed as for No. 383.
No. 389. _Petites Bouchées aux Huîtres._
Prepare them as before, and proceed as for vol-au-vents (No. 384).
No. 390. _Petites Bouchées de Homard._
Prepare them as before, and proceed as for vol-au-vents (No. 385).
No. 391. _Petites Bouchées à la Reine._
Prepare them as usual, pick the meat of the half of a braised chicken,
and cut it in very small dice (not larger than peas), cut about the same
size one ounce of cooked tongue, six blanched mushrooms, and two
middling-sized French truffles; mix altogether, then put twenty
tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight of milk,
reduce it to one half, then add the minced fowl, tongue, &c., season
with a little lemon-juice, pepper, salt, sugar, and two spoonfuls of
cream; serve them very hot on a napkin.
No. 392. _Petites Bouchées à la purée de Volaille._
Prepare them as before, take about half a pound of the flesh of chicken,
turkey, or any description of poultry; pound it well in a mortar, with
half an ounce of lean boiled ham, then put a teaspoonful of chopped
eschalots in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, pass them over the
fire, stirring them with a wooden spoon, then add a little flour, mix it
well with the butter and eschalots, then add the pounded meat, four
spoonfuls of white sauce, and half a pint of good stock that the bones
of the poultry have been previously boiled in, boil altogether a quarter
of an hour, season with a little white pepper, salt, and sugar, pass it
through a tammie by rubbing it with two wooden spoons, put it into
another stewpan, boil it, finish with a tablespoonful of liaison, fill
the bouchées, and serve on a napkin very hot.
No. 393. _Petites Bouchées de Gibier._
Prepare the bouchées as before, put twenty tablespoonfuls of game sauce
(No. 60) in a stewpan, then cut up into small dice the flesh of a
grouse, partridge, half a pheasant, or the remains of any game you might
happen to have by you, put it in the stewpan with the sauce, make it hot
but do not let it boil, season with a little sugar and salt, fill and
serve as before.
No. 394. _Petites Bouchées à la purée de Gibier._
Prepare them as before, and proceed as for the petites bouchées à la
purée de volaille, (No. 392) only using the flesh of game, and game
sauce, instead of the flesh of poultry and white sauce.
No. 395. _Petits Pâtés à la Pâtissière._
Make one pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it into a sheet a quarter
of an inch in thickness, then cut twenty pieces of the size of a
five-shilling piece with a plain round cutter; mix the remains of the
paste together, and roll them out to the thickness of the eighth of an
inch, and cut twenty more pieces from it with the same cutter, sprinkle
a baking sheet with water and lay them on it a little distance apart,
wash them over with a little water with a paste brush, then have ready
prepared in a basin half a pound of forcemeat of veal, fowl, or game
(Nos. 120, 122, 123), with which mix half an ounce of beef marrow
chopped very fine, one eschalot, a little parsley also chopped fine, and
the yolk of an egg; mix well together with a wooden spoon, then put a
little lump of the forcemeat half the size of a walnut on each piece of
paste on the baking sheet, cover them over with the twenty pieces of
paste you first cut, and close them well at the edges by pressing them
down with the top part of a smaller cutter, egg the tops over, but be
careful that the egg does not run down the sides, or it would prevent
the patties from rising straight, put them in rather a hot oven and bake
them about twenty minutes; dish them in pyramid on a napkin and serve;
to be good they should be served directly they are taken from the oven;
care should be taken not to put too much forcemeat in them, or it will
upset them in baking.
No. 396. _Petits Pâtés aux Huîtres à la Pâtissière._
Proceed as above, but instead of using forcemeat use some of the
salpicon of oysters as prepared for the rissoles aux huîtres (No. 399).
No. 397. _Petits Pâtés de Homard à la Pâtissière._
Proceed as above, using some of the salpicon as prepared for the
rissoles de homard (No. 400).
No. 398. _Petits Pâtés of Shrimps or Prawns à la Pâtissière._
As before, using the salpicon of shrimps as prepared for rissoles of
shrimps or prawns (No. 401).
No. 399. _Rissoles aux Huîtres._
Put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with half an
ounce of butter, place it over the fire, fry the onions, but they must
be kept white; then add half a teaspoonful of flour, and twelve of
oyster liquor, (mix well) and eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No.
7), boil altogether ten minutes (or more till it becomes rather
thickish), keeping it stirred the whole time, season with a little
cayenne pepper, and salt, (it requires to be seasoned rather high,) then
have ready blanched three dozen of oysters, cut each into four pieces,
dry them on a cloth, and put them into the sauce, let them boil two
minutes, add a few drops of essence of anchovies, and three yolks of
eggs, stir again over the fire a minute to set the eggs, then put it out
on a dish and set it to get cold; make half a pound of puff paste (No.
1132), roll it ten times, (or the trimmings of paste previously made
will do,) roll it out as thin as a shilling, then cut it out with a
round cutter the size of the top of a small teacup, lay a teaspoonful of
the preparation of oyster on each piece, wet it round with the paste
brush, turn one edge over on to the other and close it well, then egg
and bread-crumb them, fry in very hot lard (enough for them to swim in),
when done dish them on a napkin, garnish with fried parsley and serve
very hot; it will take about five minutes to fry them.
No. 400. _Rissoles de Homard._
Put a teaspoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with half an ounce of
fresh butter, fry them white, then add ten or fifteen tablespoonfuls of
white sauce (according to the size of the lobster), stir over the fire
and let it boil five minutes, or more, until rather thick, have a fresh
lobster cut up into small dice, put it into the sauce, season with
cayenne pepper, salt, a little chopped parsley, juice of a lemon, and a
few drops of essence of anchovies, let it boil a minute, then add two
yolks of eggs, stir it over the fire another minute, to set the eggs,
and pour it out on a dish to get cold; make and serve the rissoles as in
the last article.
No. 401. _Rissoles of Shrimps._
Prepare the salpicon exactly the same as the lobster in the last
article, but be careful that the shrimps are not too salt; prawns are
better for this purpose than shrimps; they require but very little
seasoning; make, fry, and serve the rissoles as before.
No. 402. _Rissoles de laitances de Maquereau._
Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a sauté-pan, rub it over the
bottom, lay in the soft roes of four mackerel, season them with a little
white pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and a very little
chopped parsley; place them over a moderate fire five minutes, turn
them, but do not let them get the least brown; when quite done cut them
into small dice without breaking, then put half a teaspoonful of chopped
eschalots into a stewpan, with a few drops of salad oil; fry them quite
white, then mix half a teaspoonful of flour with them, and ten
tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), stir it over the fire, and boil
till it becomes very thick (as the roes of mackerel are so very
delicate), season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and a little sugar
if required; then put in two yolks of eggs, mix well, and add the
mackerel roes, stir it very gently over the fire till the eggs become
set, then put it on a dish to get cold; make, dress, and serve the
rissoles as before. This delicate hors-d’œuvre requires great
attention and proper seasoning.
No. 403. _Rissoles de Gibier._
Roast a grouse or any other bird rather underdone, or the remains of
some game left from a previous dinner will do, pick the meat off the
bones and cut it into very small dice; then put a teaspoonful of chopped
eschalots in a stewpan, with a quarter of an ounce of butter, fry them
rather brown, add ten tablespoonfuls of game sauce (if none, make some
with the bones as directed, No. 60), and four of brown ditto (No. 1),
reduce over the fire till it becomes rather thick, season with a little
cayenne pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, and a
teaspoonful of wine; let it boil, then add the game, with a little sugar
and two yolks of eggs, stir it gently over the fire just to set the
eggs, pour it on a dish to cool; make, dress, and serve the rissoles as
before.
No. 404. _Rissoles de Volaille._
Cut half a roast (or boiled) fowl up into very small dice, then put a
teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with half an ounce of
butter, fry them quite white, then add sixteen tablespoonfuls of white
sauce (No. 7), put it over the fire to reduce till it is rather thick,
put the fowl into the sauce, season with a little salt, white pepper,
sugar, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, and a little chopped parsley;
let it boil a few minutes, then stir in the yolks of two eggs, let them
set, and pour it on a dish to cool (a little ham or tongue may be mixed
with the above, if required;) make, fry, and serve the rissoles as
before.
Rissoles may also be made of turkey, pigeons, veal, lamb, sweetbread,
&c., by following the above receipt, and using either one or the other
of those articles instead of fowl.
No. 405. _Croustade de Beurre._
Have ready a lump of fresh butter very hard and cut it into slices one
inch and a half in thickness, lay them upon a table or slab in a cool
place; then take a round cutter the size of half-a-crown, and with it
cut twelve pieces of the butter out of the slices, beat up three or four
eggs on a plate, put the pieces of butter into them, then take them out
and throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, take them out, throw them
again into the eggs, and then the bread-crumbs, repeating the process
three times, lay them upright upon the table, and mark a ring a little
larger than a shilling on the top of each with a smaller cutter, stand
them in a wire basket and fry in very hot lard, of a nice light-brown
colour, and very crisp, take them out, take off the lids, empty them
with care, and you will save nearly all the butter from them, turn them
topsy-turvey in a dry place until wanted; when ready to serve put them
in the oven a short time to get hot, and fill with any of the
preparations for petites bouchées. You may form the croustades in
diamonds, or any shape your fancy dictates; they make very beautiful
hors-d’œuvres, and very cheap, as with care you may save the butter,
which when cold may be applied to any other purpose.
No. 406. _Croustade de Beurre à la Duke of York._
Prépare the croustades as above, and make a good purée of fowl (as for
petites bouchées à la purée de volaille, No. 392), then peel a good
sized cucumber, cut it in pieces two inches long, and divide each piece
into three lengthwise, take out the seeds, and stew the pieces of
cucumber till very tender, with a little sugar, onion, and broth,
keeping them very white; when cold cut them in small dice, mix with the
purée of fowl, fill the croustades, and serve very hot with a plover’s
egg upon the top of each.
No. 407. _Croquettes de Homard._
Prepare a salpicon of lobster the same as for rissoles de homard; when
quite cold cut it out in pieces two inches long and three quarters of an
inch wide, beat up three or four eggs on a plate, and throw each piece
into them and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, take them out, roll them
lightly with the hand, beat them gently with a knife to make the crumbs
stick, then throw them again into the eggs and bread-crumb, smooth them
again with a knife, fry in hot lard, and dress them on a napkin
garnished with fried parsley; they may be made in the form of pears or
any way that fancy dictates, giving them the shape previous to
bread-crumbing them. Croquettes may be made of any of the preparations
for rissoles by following the above direction.
No. 408. _Aiguillettes de Ris de Veau._
For these kind of hors-d’œuvres it is necessary to have twelve small
silver skewers, about four inches long and the thickness of a
packing-needle, with a ring or fancy design on the top, they are not
very expensive but are very novel for this description of dishes; the
persons eating what is served upon them taking the head of the skewer
with the fingers of their left hand and picking it off with their fork.
Boil three throat sweetbreads in water ten minutes, pour off the water
and add one onion, one carrot, one turnip, two bay-leaves, and a pint of
white broth, let them simmer about twenty minutes till firm, then take
them out of the broth, lay them on a clean cloth, cut them in pieces,
with a long round cutter, about the size of a shilling, and season with
pepper and salt; then chop two eschalots very fine and put them in a
stewpan with an ounce of butter; fry them quite white, add ten
tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and eight of light stock, reduce
until rather thick, add two yolks of eggs and the juice of half a lemon,
take it off the fire, but do not let it boil after the yolks of eggs are
in, then dip each piece of sweetbread into the sauce with a fork, and
lay them on a dish till cold, then run the skewers through the centre of
each piece, putting two pieces on each skewer, have ready four eggs well
beaten on a plate, dip each skewer into the eggs and then into the
bread-crumbs twice over, fry in hot lard, and serve them very hot on a
napkin.
No. 409. _Aiguillettes (escalopes) aux Huîtres._
Put eighteen tablespoonfuls of good oyster sauce (No. 69) into a
stewpan, reduce it until rather thick, then add two yolks of eggs, stir
them well in, and take it off the fire; choose rather small oysters,
have them ready blanched and bearded, dip them one by one into the sauce
with a fork, and lay them on a dish to cool; when quite cold run the
skewers through (placing five on each skewer), dip them in eggs and
bread-crumbs twice over as before, fry them in hot lard, and serve very
hot on a napkin.
No. 410. _Aiguillettes (escalopes) de Homard._
Cut forty pieces of lobster the size round of a shilling, and one inch
in thickness, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan,
with a very small piece of butter, fry them quite white, then add eight
tablespoonfuls of oyster sauce (No. 69), reduce till rather thick,
season with a little sugar, cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon,
finish with the yolks of two eggs, dip the pieces of lobster into it and
proceed as before; fry, dish, and serve in the same manner; the onions
may be avoided if objectionable.
No. 411. _Aiguillettes de filets de Sole._
Fillet a sole, butter a sauté-pan, lay in the fillets, season with
pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon, place them over a slow fire and
when done lay them flat on a dish, place another dish on them, upon
which put a four pounds weight, when cold cut them in pieces with a
cutter the size of a shilling, prepare oyster sauce as above, dip each
piece in the sauce and proceed exactly as before.
No. 412. _Aiguillettes aux Huîtres._
Make a preparation of oysters the same as for rissoles aux huîtres,
adding one more yolk of egg; when cold make thin croquettes two inches
long, egg and bread-crumb them once, pass a silver skewer through each,
then egg and bread-crumb again, fry and serve on a napkin with fried
parsley.
No. 413. _Aiguillettes de Homard._
Make the preparation as for croquettes de homard (No. 407), and proceed
exactly as in the last.
No. 414. _Aiguillettes de Sole._
Make a preparation as for croquettes de homard, only using the fillets
of soles instead of lobster, and proceed as before.
No. 415. _Aiguilettes de Volaille à la jolie fille._
Make a preparation as for rissoles de volaille (No. 404), but adding
tongue, truffles, and pistachios cut in small fillets; when cold make
them into croquettes about two inches long, but do not bread-crumb them;
pass a silver skewer through, then have ready some batter for frying
(No. 1285), hold each skewer by the head, pour some batter over each
croquette with a spoon, covering every part of them, and fry in lard,
but not too hot, as they must be quite white and crisp; dress them on a
napkin and serve very hot.
For Aiguilettes de Gibier à la jolie fille proceed exactly as above,
only using game in the preparation instead of fowl.
In France hors-d’œuvres are made of tastefully dressed anchovy
salads, olives, &c., to invigorate the appetite, which is unrequired at
this almost the commencement of the dinner.
REMOVES.
No. 416. _Croustades of Bread for removes._
Although it is against my principle to have any unnecessary ornamental
work in a dinner, I am rather partial to these croustades, they being
simple and very elegant. It would be quite useless my attempting to
explain by receipts the manner in which they are made, as so much
depends upon the taste and skill of the artist. Having invented several
new removes requiring croustades of different designs, I have had them
engraved, and think I may say that the whole of the designs there
represented are quite original. These croustades are cut out of one or
two loaves of bread; when cut in separate pieces they are joined by
running a silver skewer (or attelet) through them; the body of the
croustades is fried in lard, of a nice straw-colour, and the small
ornaments attached are cut with cutters and fried in oil, some must be
kept quite white and others allowed to get very black; they are fixed to
the body of the croustade with a stiffish paste made of whites of eggs
and flour; my reason for departing from the old-fashioned custom of
placing them in the centre of a dish and putting them at the head, is
that it facilitates the carving, and you are not so subject to get
pieces of it in your plate with the sauce, besides which I think it has
a more novel appearance, and makes the dish more elegant.
No. 417. _To obtain, lard, and dress a filet of Beef._
A fillet of beef can only be procured in this country by purchasing a
rump and sirloin together, (in France it is sold as a separate joint,)
but the rump and sirloin can be used for other dishes, or for the
servants’ meals, and in families where they kill their own meat, it is
of no consequence. To cut out the fillet lay the rump and sirloin upon
the table, the inside uppermost, then pass your knife along close to the
chine bone, keeping the knife close to the bone until you get past the
fillet, then commence cutting upwards through the fat, which trim from
the fillet, except a little at the sides, then with a sharp knife take
all the skin from the top of the fillet, beat it lightly, and lard it
nicely lengthwise with small lardons of fat bacon, two inches in length,
and the thickness of a quill; have prepared and cut in slices six
onions, two carrots, two turnips, one head of celery, one leek, a
handful of parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, and six bay-leaves, moisten
with a teacupful of salad oil, lay your fillet on a large dish and cover
with the vegetables, let it remain thus all night; to cook it run a lark
spit through the length of the fillet, lay all the vegetables upon four
sheets of paper, (or more, for if not sufficient paper it will burst and
the vegetables fall in the dripping-pan,) lay the fillet upon them,
cover and tie it up surrounded with the vegetables; baste it well when
you first put it to the fire, to prevent the paper from burning, roast
an hour and a half or a little longer before a good fire; when done,
take it from the vegetables, glaze the larded part, brown lightly with
the salamander, and it is ready to be sauced and served. It may also be
roasted without the vegetables, but then an hour would suffice.
No. 418. _Fillet of Beef à la Joan d’Arc._
Prepare and cook the fillet as described, then cut a croustade in the
form of a breast-plate (see plate), fix it at the head of the dish upon
paste, then lay your fillet in the middle of a dish, make a small border
of mashed potatoes round, upon which alternately place a small quenelle
(No. 120) and a small fillet of tongue, to match; proceed in like manner
all the way round, then have ready nicely boiled twenty heads of fine
asparagus, cut half of them five inches in length, and the remainder
three inches, dress them inside of the croustade on the top to represent
arrows, pour a jus d’eschalotte sauce (No. 16) over the fillet, glaze
the quenelles and tongue, and serve very hot.
No. 419. _Fillet of Beef à la Beyrout._
Prepare and dress the fillet as before, then cut a croustade of bread
representing the wall of a citadel, form the cannons with stewed
carrots, and the balls with truffles, place it on mashed potatoes at the
head of the dish, lay the fillet in the centre, make a border of mashed
potatoes round, rather high, close to the croustade on each side, but
diminishing as you go from it; have ready twenty crawfish, place them on
the potatoes, tails upwards, pour a sauce Beyrout (No. 64) round the
fillet; glaze and serve.
I must here observe that as crawfish are frequently served to garnish
calf’s head, I see no impropriety in using them to garnish beef.
No. 420. _Fillet of Beef au jus d’Orange._
Prepare and dress the fillet as described (No. 417), dish it up plain
and serve with jus d’orange sauce (No. 17) over it.
No. 421. _Fillet of Beef au jus de Tomate._
Prepare and dress the fillet as described above, dish it up plain, pour
the sauce au jus de tomate (No. 12) round it; glaze and serve very hot.
No. 422. _Fillet of Beef Napolitaine._
Prepare and dress the fillet as described (No. 417), place it in the
centre of the dish, have ready two croustades, the shape and size of
scallop shells, fix one at each end of the fillet on mashed potatoes,
and fill them with fresh scraped horseradish, then have ready the
following sauce: make a mierpoix of two onions, two turnips, one carrot,
one apple, a quarter of a pound of lean ham (cut in thin slices), half a
clove of garlic, one bay-leaf, and three tablespoonfuls of salad oil;
pass the whole twenty minutes over a slow fire (in a stewpan), then add
four tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, boil it five minutes, add a
pint and a half of brown sauce (No. 1), and a pint of consommé (No.
134); reduce it to half, skim off all the oil, then add six
tablespoonfuls of very red tomate sauce, one ditto of orange marmalade,
and two of currant jelly, let it boil a few minutes longer, pass it
through a tammie into another stewpan, season rather high, have ready a
quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins (well soaked in water for one
hour), and twelve of the best quality French plums cut in quarters
lengthwise, throw them into the sauce, make it hot, pour round the beef,
which glaze very nicely and serve.
No. 423. _Fillet of Beef à la Strasbourgienne._
Prepare and dress your fillets as directed, adding four glasses of
sherry to the vegetables you roast it in; prepare two croustades the
size and shape of scallop shells, dress your beef in the middle of the
dish, placing a croustade (on mashed potatoes) at each end; have ready
previously boiled two pounds of Strasburg bacon (which, from its dry
nature requires soaking two days and boiling four hours), cut it in
slices two inches long, and have an equal number of sliced of fried
potatoes to match, make a border of mashed potatoes round the beef, and
dress the slices of bacon and fried potatoes alternately upon it, have
ready prepared the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped
eschalots in a stewpan, with three of Tarragon vinegar, let it reduce to
half, then add a pint and a half of brown sauce, two spoonfuls of
tomate sauce (No. 37), a pint of consommé (No. 134), and half a
tablespoonful of sugar, let it boil quickly twenty minutes, skim well,
and reduce until it adheres to the back of the spoon, then have ready a
lemon, peeled, sliced, blanched in boiling water, and drained on a hair
sieve, which throw in the sauce, pour it round the beef, fill one of the
croustades with stoned French olives, and the other with Indian pickle
made hot in a little demi-glace (No. 9); serve immediately.
No. 424. _Fillet of Beef à la Napolitaine._
Prepare and dress the fillet as directed (No. 417), dress it plain on a
dish and have ready prepared the following sauce: cut in thin slices two
onions, half a carrot, one turnip, half a head of celery, two
bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, three cloves, one
blade of mace, and a quarter of a pound of lean ham; put them into a
stewpan with two ounces of butter, stir it over a brisk fire till
getting rather brown at the bottom, then add four tablespoonfuls of
tarragon vinegar, let it reduce to half, then add a quart of brown sauce
(No. 1) and a pint of consommé (No. 134), stir it until boiling, then
place it at the corner of the stove to simmer a quarter of an hour, skim
it, then add a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, a little grated
horseradish, and three tablespoonfuls of currant jelly; boil it quickly
five minutes, and pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, add a
quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins well washed and soaked, pour the
sauce over the beef, garnish with scraped horseradish and hard-boiled
eggs cut in quarters lengthwise and laid near the rim of the dish.
No. 425. _Fillet of Beef à la Milanaise._
Prepare and lard the fillet as before, then make a stiffish paste of
flour and water, roll it about half an inch in thickness and fold the
fillet in it, fold it again in three sheets of paper, tie it up at both
ends, run a lark spit through it, and just as you are going to put it
down to roast open the paste, pour in three glasses of Madeira wine,
close the paste well, tie it up securely, roast it two hours, take it up
and remove from the paste, glaze it, brown lightly with the salamander,
dish it plain, and have ready the following sauce: cut half a pound of
blanched maccaroni into pieces an inch long, likewise two ounces of very
red cooked tongue, six large blanched mushrooms, and four middling-sized
French truffles, put twenty spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a
stewpan, stir it over the fire five minutes, season with half a
teaspoonful of salt, a small quantity of cayenne, and a little sugar,
add all the other ingredients, with half a pound of grated Parmesan,
stir the whole over the fire to get hot, but do not break the pieces;
moisten with a little cream, pour the sauce in the dish, lay the fillet
upon it, glaze and serve.
No. 426. _Fillet of Beef à la Bohémienne._
Trim and lard a fillet as directed, cut in thin slices six onions, two
carrots, three turnips, three heads of celery, and a leek; put them into
a dish large enough to hold the fillet, then put a quart of vinegar into
a stewpan, with a pint of broth; when it boils put in a few peppercorns,
nine cloves, two blades of mace, four bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and
sweet marjoram, a small bunch of parsley, half a pound of brown sugar,
and a little salt, let it boil twenty minutes and pour it over the
vegetables; when it gets cold lay in the fillet of beef, covering it
over with the vegetables, let it remain in this pickle six days, turning
it every day; when ready to cook roast it in paste as in the previous
article, brown it with the salamander, serve it in the middle of the
dish, make a low border of mashed potatoes round it, have ready potatoes
fried (and cut in slices in the shape of cotelettes) dish them upon the
border of mashed potatoes round the beef, have ready the following
sauce: put a quart of poivrade sauce (No. 32) in a stewpan, when it
boils add twenty French olives (stoned), twenty small pickled onions,
and twenty pickled mushrooms; pour the sauce round the beef but not over
the potatoes; an ounce of anchovy butter may be added to the sauce if
approved of. You can also braise the fillet in a baking dish in the oven
with the marinade it is pickled in.
No. 427. _Fillet of Beef à la Romaine._
Trim your fillet and lard it through the thick part with large pieces of
cooked tongue and fat bacon, twelve pieces of each, tie it up with a
piece of string, put half a pound of butter in a large stewpan, and lay
in the beef with a pound of bacon cut in slices, two onions, two
bayleaves, two cloves, and ten peppercorns; place it on a sharp fire,
when getting a little brown and forming a glaze, put in six glasses of
sherry and a pint of consommé, (No. 134), set it over a very slow fire
for two hours, moving it round with a wooden spoon occasionally; have
ready blanched one pound of the best small maccaroni (No. 136); put it
in a stewpan, after it is well drained from the water take up the beef,
skim the fat off the gravy it is cooked with, and pass it through a
sieve upon the maccaroni, add six tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce, and
place it over the fire; when it simmers add half a pound of grated
Parmesan and half a pound of grated Gruyer cheese, move it round
quickly, (it must not be too liquid, so if too much gravy from the beef
reserve some of it;) season with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and
sugar, put a layer of maccaroni upon your dish, then a layer of grated
cheese, then the remainder of the maccaroni, egg and bread-crumb the
top, sprinkle more grated cheese over, brown it with the salamander, lay
the fillet on the top, glaze, and serve very hot. Should any gravy
remain pour it round.
No. 428. _Stewed rump of Beef à la Flamande._
Choose a rump of beef from twenty-five to thirty pounds, in weight, the
meat dark and well covered with fat, bone and lard it slantwise through
and through with very large lardons of fat bacon six inches long, chop
up the bone, which put into a large stewpan, with five or six pounds of
the trimmings of any other meat, one pound of lean ham, three onions,
two turnips, one carrot, one head of celery, one leek, a bunch of
parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, eight peppercorns, and a blade of mace:
put a pint of water in the stewpan, cover and stand it over a brisk
fire, stirring it occasionally till the bottom is covered with glaze,
then lay in the beef, fill the stewpan with water, skim when boiling,
and let it simmer on the corner of the fire for six hours; to try when
it is done run a trussing-needle into it, if it goes in easy it is done;
have ready prepared eighteen middling-sized onions, butter a sauté-pan,
put half an ounce of powdered sugar in it, cut a piece of the top and
bottom of each onion, blanch them in boiling water ten minutes, drain
well, stand them in the sauté-pan, cover with stock, place them over the
fire, stew till tender and the stock has become a thin glaze, have ready
eighteen pieces of carrots, and eighteen turnips cut in the form of
small pears, which dress in the same way as the onions, lay the rump of
beef on your dish, and arrange the onions and vegetables with taste
around it, using for variety any green vegetables that may happen to be
in season with them; for the sauce put a quart of brown sauce in a
stewpan, with the glaze from the onions and vegetables, and half a pint
of good stock; season with a little pepper and salt if required, reduce
a quarter of an hour, or till it becomes rather thick, pour the sauce
over the vegetables, glaze the top of the beef, brown it lightly in the
oven, or with the salamander, and serve. To carve, cut it in thin slices
slantingly through the thickest end, where there is most fat; if
underdone it is uneatable.
No. 429. _Stewed Rump of Beef aux Oignons glacés._
Stew the beef as directed in the last, likewise thirty-six onions,
stewed in the same way as there directed; make a border of mashed
potatoes round the dish, place the beef in the centre, and dress the
onions round upon the potato; place a fine Brussels sprout on the top of
each onion (or a little sprue grass or green peas if in season), then
put a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), in a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of
tomata sauce and the glaze the onions were cooked in; boil well five
minutes, keeping it stirred and well skimmed, pour over the onions,
glaze the beef, brown it with the salamander, and serve. You may put a
very white cauliflower at each end of the dish, if you have any. In
making the border of mashed potatoes on your dish, be sure and leave
sufficient room for the beef, as you can (and it is the best way) dress
the onions and garniture on it first, and not place the beef on till
ready to serve; for the fat running from the beef it would spoil the
appearance of the sauce if it remained long on the dish before serving.
No. 430. _Stewed Rump of Beef à la Voltaire._
Dress the beef as before, then blanch two white winter cabbages (savoys)
in salt and water ten minutes; take them out, and lay them on a sieve to
drain; then make a mierpoix of two onions, half a carrot, one turnip,
one head of celery, one leek, a little parsley, thyme, one bay-leaf, and
half a pound of lean ham, all cut up very small; put them into a stewpan
with two ounces of butter, fry five minutes, keeping them stirred; then
squeeze the cabbage quite dry, lay it in the stewpan with the vegetables
and a quart of veal stock, place it over a slow fire to stew for one
hour, or till quite tender, take out the cabbage (save the stock), lay
it on a cloth, turn the end of the cloth over it, squeeze it rather dry,
and make a long roll of it (about the size round of half-a-crown piece),
cut it in pieces about an inch in length, and dress them on the dish
round the beef; a small onion dressed as before may be placed on the top
of each piece with a nice Brussels sprout between; and surround the
whole with small fried sausages; for sauce, skim off the fat from the
broth the cabbage was stewed in; put half a pint of it in a stewpan,
with a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), place it on the fire, and reduce it
to one-half; add a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, and pour the sauce
over the cabbage, glaze and salamander the beef, and serve; this remove
is very good, and a similar dish is reputed to have been a great
favourite of the celebrated man from whom I have named it.
No. 431. _Stewed Rump of Beef à la Portugaise._
Stew the beef as before, peel eight Portugal onions, boil them in a
gallon of water till nearly tender, take them out and drain them; butter
a convenient sized stewpan, put in the onions with two ounces of sugar,
just cover them with good veal stock, and stew them until the stock is
reduced to a thinnish glaze, and adheres to them; place the beef on the
dish, and dress the onions round it at equal distances apart, and
between each onion place a small but nice white cauliflower; for the
sauce, add a quart of brown sauce, with the glaze from the onions;
reduce it to half over the fire, pass it through a tammie into a clean
stewpan, let it boil, throw in forty French olives ready stoned, pour
the sauce over the vegetable, glaze the beef, salamander, and serve.
No. 432. _Stewed Rump of Beef à la Joan d’Arc._
Stew the beef as before, and proceed the same as for Fillet of beef à la
Joan d’Arc (No. 418).
No. 433. _Stewed Rump of Beef à la Beyrout._
Stew the beef as before, and proceed as for Filet de bœuf à la
Beyrout (No. 419).
No. 434. _Stewed Rump of Beef à la Macédoine de légumes._
Stew the rump as before, then peel forty young carrots, the same number
of young turnips; tie up ten small bunches of green spring onions,
butter a sauté-pan, place them in it with a tablespoonful of sugar
(leave the stalks of the onions about an inch and a half in length),
half cover them with some good stock, and let them simmer until quite
tender; cook the turnips and carrots in the same manner, but separate,
make a low border of mashed potatoes round the dish, leaving room for
the beef in the centre; dress the carrots, onions, and turnips on the
potatoes tastefully, and variegate them with peas, cauliflowers,
asparagus, French beans, and stewed cucumbers (No. 1064); glaze and
salamander the beef on a separate dish, place it in the middle of the
vegetables, and have ready the following sauce: put a quart of brown
sauce in a stewpan, with the stocks the vegetables were cooked in,
reduce until it becomes thickish, pour over the vegetables, and serve.
No. 435. _Stewed Rump of Beef sauce piquante._
Prepare and stew the rump of beef as before, and prepare the following
sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with six
do. of common vinegar, and half an ounce of glaze; let it reduce to
half, then add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of
consommée (No. 134); let it simmer half an hour, skim, and season with
a little cayenne pepper, salt, sugar, a tablespoonful of chopped
mushrooms, one do. of chopped gherkins, and one do. of sliced gherkins;
glaze and salamander the beef, pour the sauce round, and serve.
No. 436. _Stewed Rump of Beef sauce tomate._
Prepare and stew the beef as before, glaze and salamander, pour some
tomata sauce (No. 37) round, and serve. If you should have part of a
rump of beef left from a previous dinner you can cut it in slices a
quarter of an inch thick, and warm them in a little consommée in a
sauté-pan; serve with any of the foregoing sauces, but especially the
two last; the best way to warm them is to glaze them well and put them
in a moderate oven about twenty minutes; do not let them boil, or they
would eat very hard.
No. 437. _Stewed Sirloin of Beef._
The sirloin, after having been deprived of its fillet, is of no use for
roasting, but is equally as good as the rump when stewed; bone it
carefully and lard the thick part with fat bacon, like the rump; roll it
up, and tie it well with string, to keep its shape; stew it in the same
manner as the rump, trim it at each end, wipe off the greasy fat lightly
from the top with a clean cloth, glaze it lightly, and put it in the
oven until it has obtained a light gold colour; serve with any of the
sauces or garnitures used for stewed rumps of beef.
No. 438. _Stewed Sirloin of Beef à la Printanière._
Prepare and stew a sirloin as described, glaze and salamander it, place
a low border of mashed potatoes round the dish, and at each end put a
croustade of bread cut in the shape of flat vases; then have ready
boiled and cut three inches in length, fifty fine heads of asparagus;
dish them in, crown upon the potatoes; then have a quart of very young
peas, nicely boiled; put them into a stewpan with a teaspoonful of
sugar, a little pepper and salt, and four pats of butter; toss them over
the fire till the butter is melted; put them in the croustade at each
end of the dish, place the beef in the centre, pour a sauce aux
concombres (No. 103) round the beef and serve. (For the sauce aux
concombres, see No. 103).
No. 439. _Ribs of Beef à la Jean Bart._
Take four ribs of beef, and saw the rib bones asunder in the middle;
pass your knife under, and detach them from the flap; then take the
chine bones from the fleshy part, sawing them off the ribs so as to
leave but about four inches of the flat rib bones underneath; then lard
the thick part through and through with fat bacon like the sirloin, fold
the flap over so as to form a nice square piece, tie it with string to
keep its shape, and roast three hours in vegetables, in the same manner
as described for fillet of beef; when done, take off the string, glaze
and salamander, place it on your dish, with a square croustade of bread,
with a cannon and anchor also cut from bread upon it, at the head of the
dish, and have ready the following sauce: chop very fine ten eschalots,
ten fresh mushrooms, and half a pound of lean ham, put them into a
stewpan with four glasses of sherry and two of Chili vinegar, add a
bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, the rind of half a lemon, and four
cloves; put them into the stewpan, let all simmer ten minutes, then add
fifteen spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), twenty of white sauce (No.
7), and ten do. of consommée; reduce the sauce until rather thick, but
it must be transparent, season with a little cayenne pepper, a
teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt, if required; pass it through a
tammie into another stewpan, boil it up, and pour round the beef.
No. 440. _Ox Tongues._
May be served plain boiled; if a good-sized tongue, allow it from three
to four hours to boil; put it in cold water, take off the skin, trim off
a great part of the root, put it in hot water again a short time, dress
it on a dish garnished with vegetables as for stewed rump of beef à la
Flamande (No. 428), or served with spinach or a Milanaise sauce (see
Fillet of Beef à la Milanaise); but when used as a remove, they are
mostly served as part of the garniture of another dish.
No. 441. _Loin of Veal à la Cambacères._
Procure a nice white loin of veal, saw off the chump, cut off the thick
skin from the thick part, then cut some lardon of fat bacon and lean raw
ham, a quarter of an inch square and three inches long, with which lard
the thickest end on the top; skewer the flap underneath, butter the
bottom of a large flat stewpan, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, and
lay the veal on the top of them, the larded side uppermost; add two
onions with four cloves stuck in them, one carrot, one turnip, a bunch
of parsley, thyme and bay-leaves (tied together), half a pint of
bucellas wine, and a quart of stock; place it over a sharp fire a
quarter of an hour to boil, skim and place it in a moderate oven for two
hours (according to the size), basting it every quarter of an hour with
the stock; when done glaze and salamander the larded part, but put the
cover of the stewpan over the other part (whilst salamandering it) as it
must be kept quite white; make a low border of mashed potatoes on the
dish you intend serving it on, and have ready the following garniture:
you have previously boiled a Russian ox-tongue; take off the skins, and
cut it in escalopes the size of five-shilling pieces; then cut up six
very large French truffles, and stew two cucumbers; cut in escalopes of
the same size as the tongue, make them hot in separate stewpans, in a
little stock, and dress them alternately on the border of mashed
potatoes all round the dish; place the veal in the centre, and have
ready the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms
in a stewpan with a glass of Madeira wine, two quarts of white sauce
(No. 7), and a pint of boiling milk; reduce it over the fire till it
becomes rather thick; pass it through a tammie into another stewpan,
season with a little sugar, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; pour a
little over each piece of truffle and cucumber, and the rest in the
dish; glaze the pieces of tongue carefully, and serve.
No. 442. _Loin of Veal à la Macédoine de légumes._
Prepare and braise the veal as before, garnish and sauce as for stewed
rump of beef à la Macédoine de légumes (No. 434).
No. 443. _Loin of Veal à la Purée de Céleri._
Prepare and braise the veal as before, without larding it; make a border
of mashed potatoes on the dish, then have twenty good heads of celery,
cut off the tops within two inches of the bottom, make a purée of celery
(No. 117) with the tops, and stew the bottoms in a quart of white stock,
with a quarter of an ounce of sugar, until tender; dress them upright
upon the border of potatoes, place the veal in the centre, and pour the
purée of celery round; serve very hot; the sauce must be rather thinner
than usual.
No. 444. _Loin of Veal à la Strasbourgienne._
Roast a loin of veal in vegetables in the manner as described for
Fillets of Beef (No. 417), allowing it longer time according to the
size; dress it on the dish with a border of mashed potatoes round, then
have ready thirty pieces of Strasburg bacon, cut in the shape and size
of cutlets; dress them on the potatoes round the veal, pour a sauce
poivrade (No. 32) into the dish, but not over the bacon; glaze the
bacon, and serve. The Strasburg bacon being very dry, requires soaking
at least twenty-four hours; it most be allowed to simmer until very
tender; place it between two dishes, with a weight upon it, and when
cold cut it into the shapes required, and make them hot in good white
stock. Good streaky bacon may be used instead of the Strasburg, if it is
difficult to obtain.
No. 445. _Fillet of Veal à la Princière._
Procure a good leg of veal, cut off the knuckle just above the joint,
then cut out the bone from the middle of the fillet; have ready two
pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), cut half a pound of cooked ham and twenty
mushrooms into very small dice, mix them with the forcemeat; season
rather high with cayenne pepper, salt, and nutmeg, put the forcemeat in
the place the bone was taken from, pull the udder of the fillet round,
and skewer it up, but not too tight; tie it up with string, put it on a
spit, and roast it four hours in vegetables, in the same manner as
described for fillets of beef; when done take it from the paper and
vegetables, cut off the string, and run three or four silver skewers
through it in the place of those you have taken out; the fillet must be
quite white; place it on the dish, make a border of mashed potatoes
round it, upon which dress alternately a piece of tongue and a piece of
bacon, each piece cut in the form of a heart, and not more than a
quarter of an inch in thickness; glaze the garniture, and have ready the
following sauce: put two quarts of white sauce into a stewpan, stir it
over the fire until it becomes thick, then add nearly a pint of thin
cream; poor the sauce in the dish, but not over the garniture, and serve
immediately; the first slice must be cut off the veal previous to its
going to table.
No. 446. _Fillet of Veal à la Versaillienne._
Cut your fillet as before, have ready boiled an ox-tongue, trim it, cut
off the root and about two inches of the tip, put it in the middle of
the fillet from where you have taken the bone, and fill up the cavities
round the tongue with some forcemeat (No. 120), skewer up the fillet and
roast it as before; when done lay it on the dish with a border of mashed
potatoes round it, upon which dress alternately a quenelle of veal and a
slice of stewed cucumber (No. 1064), then put two quarts of white sauce
in a stewpan, with a pint of broth, reduce it, and add nearly half a
pint of cream, pour the sauce over the garniture, and sprinkle a little
chopped tarragon and chervil over it; serve as soon as possible after
you have poured the sauce over, which requires to be seasoned rather
high.
No. 447. _Fillet of Veal à la Palestine._
Prepare and dress the fillet exactly as before, then peel fifty
Jerusalem artichokes, and turn them in the shape of small pears; boil
them nicely in salt and water, lay your fillet on a dish with a border
of mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress the artichokes, the round
part uppermost, between each artichoke place a fine Brussels sprout;
sauce the same as the last and serve.
No. 448. _Fillet of Veal à la Jardinière._
Prepare the fillet as before, but place a piece of boiled bacon in the
centre instead of the tongue, roast it in vegetables as before, pour a
sauce jardinière (No. 100) upon a dish, sprinkle a pint of young green
peas plain boiled upon it, dress a cauliflower at each end and another
on each side, place the fillet in the middle upon the sauce and serve.
No. 449. _Fillet of Veal à la Potagère._
Prepare the fillet as before, then lard it through and through with
pieces of fat bacon a quarter of an inch square and six inches long,
skewer it up tight, put it on a spit and roast it as before, but twenty
minutes before it is done take it out of the vegetables but not off the
spit, and let it remain before the fire to brown; have ready prepared
twenty middle-sized onions, and as many pieces of carrots turned in the
form of pears, stew them as directed in stewed rump of beef à la
Flamande (No. 428), place the fillet in the dish, make a border of
mashed potatoes round it, upon which dress the onions and carrots, with
a cauliflower at each end; have ready the following sauce: put two
quarts of brown sauce in a stewpan, with half a pint of consommé and
half the stock the carrots and onions were cooked in, boil it till it
becomes like a thin glaze, pour over the vegetables, sprinkle about a
pint of young peas nicely boiled over them if in season, and serve.
No. 450. _Fillet of Veal aux petits pois._
Prepare and roast the fillet exactly as the preceding, then put a pint
of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, let it boil; have ready a quart of
young peas nicely boiled, put them into the stewpan, with the white
sauce, a little salt, and half an ounce of pounded sugar, let it boil
up, then add two ounces of fresh butter, toss them together over the
fire, pour them out into the dish, lay the fillet over, and serve as
soon as possible.
No. 451. _Neck of Veal à la purée de céleri._
Take the best end of a neck of veal with about seven bones in it, cut
off the chine bones to give it a nice square appearance, and roast it in
vegetables as the fillets, but of course it will not require so long;
when done, dress it on a dish with a piece of boiled bacon about three
inches broad at each end, make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon
which dress the bottoms of fifteen heads of stewed celery (No. 117), and
sauce with a purée of celery made from the tops, as there directed;
serve very hot, but glaze the veal and bacon the last thing before going
to table.
No. 452. _Neck of Veal à la Rouennaise._
Prepare a neck of veal, leaving it as long as possible, take off the
skin and the chine bones, lard and braise it as for loin of veal à la
Cambacères (No. 441); when done, put three tablespoonfuls of oil into a
stewpan, with two of chopped eschalots, two of chopped raw mushrooms,
and two of chopped parsley, pass them ten minutes over the fire, then
pour off the greater part of the oil, add half a teaspoonful of flour,
mix it well, and put in eighteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7),
stir it over the fire till it becomes rather thick, then add a little
salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs, mix all
well together, and spread it over the larded part of the veal, egg and
bread-crumb it, brown it lightly with the salamander, and serve a jus
d’échalotte sauce (No. 16) with mushrooms in it, pour it in the dish
round the veal.
No. 453. _Neck of Veal à la Milanaise._
Braise the veal precisely as (No. 441), prepare a Milanaise sauce (see
fillet of beef à la Milanaise, No. 425) which pour into the dish and
dress the veal upon it.
No. 454. _Neck of Veal à la Bruxellaise._
Dress the veal the same as for neck of veal à la purée de céleri (No.
451), then have about one hundred Brussels sprouts, nicely boiled, put
them into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a little pepper, salt,
sugar, and the juice of half a good lemon, stir them gently over the
fire but do not break the sprouts, pour them upon your dish, dress the
veal upon them with a piece of bacon at each end, glaze them, pour half
a pint of thin white sauce (No. 7) round over the Brussels sprouts and
serve.
No. 455. _Breast of Veal._
I do not consider that a breast of veal is good without the tendron
(which is usually cut out and braised for entrées), yet it would be
impossible to roast it with the breast, for it would not be a quarter
done by the time the other was; I therefore recommend the following new
method: cut out the tendron, braise it as described (No. 685), let it
get cold, take the other bones out of the breast, lay some forcemeat of
veal (No. 120) down the centre, upon which place the tendron, roll it
up, sew it with string and your trussing-needle, oil some paper, tie the
veal up in it, and roast it two hours, place a sauce Soubise (No. 47);
or jardinière (No. 100) on the dish; take the veal from the paper and
lay it upon the sauce, or if preferred you may serve with a plain veal
sauce made thus: put ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, and the same quantity
of melted butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire, let it boil ten
minutes, skim it, add three tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce, and it is
ready to serve.
No. 456. _Breast of Veal aux pois fins à l’Anglaise._
Dress the veal exactly as before, have ready boiled a quart of fresh
young peas, put them into a stewpan, with eight spoonfuls of brown sauce
(No. 1), a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, and a small bunch of parsley, boil them ten minutes, season with
a little salt if required, pour them into your dish, glaze the veal and
serve it upon them.
No. 457. _Breast of Veal à la purée de céleri._
Dress the veal as before, and serve with a purée of celery (No. 117)
under it.
No. 458. _Breast of Veal sauce tomate._
Dress the veal as before and serve with a sauce tomate (No. 37) under
it. Breasts of veal may be stewed like the necks, or roasted with
vegetables, but they are best roasted as before described.
No. 459. _Calf’s Head._
Procure a nice white calf’s head that has been well scalded, saw it in
halves, taking out the tongue (whole) and the brains, make a white stock
as follows: put two carrots, two turnips, two heads of celery, (cut up
small), a quarter of a pound of butter, six cloves, four blades of mace,
and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, pass it over the fire
twenty minutes in a long brasier large enough to lay the head in, then
add a pint of water with which when boiled mix a quarter of a pound of
flour, add a gallon of water, two lemons in slices, and a quarter of a
pound of salt; let it boil up, then lay the head in, take care that it
is well covered or the part exposed would become quite black, when
boiling set it on the corner of the stove to simmer for two hours, or
until it is done, which you can ascertain by pressing the cheek on the
thickest part with your finger, if it gives easily it is done; let it
remain in the broth until ready to serve, take it up, drain it on a
clean cloth, break off the jaw-bone, lay it on your dish, surround it
with six nice boiled potatoes cut in halves, and pour sauce Hollandaise
(No. 66) over it, or sauce piquante (No. 27), or sauce tomate (No. 37),
if preferred.
To serve calf’s head for a remove for a large dinner, when the head is
done cut off the ears, take out all the bone, and set it on a large
dish, place another dish upon it and press it lightly with a seven
pounds weight till it gets cold, then lay it out on the table and cut it
into oval pieces two inches wide and three long, make a border of mashed
potatoes, warm the pieces in the stock it was boiled in, drain them on a
cloth, then dish them alternately with quarters of boiled potatoes round
the dish, trim the gristly part of the ears, then cut incisions in them
longways without separating the edges, turn them over and they will form
a frill, place a little of the brains inside of each, and the remainder
with the tongue cut in halves in the centre, upon which place the ears
at each end, sauce with Hollandaise as before, but if required with
other sauce the quarters of potatoes must be omitted.
No. 460. _Calf’s Head au naturel._
Although calf’s head is seldom if ever dressed this way in England it is
about the best method; the glutinous substance of the head being so
relishing with this sauce, all French epicures patronise it. Take a
small calf’s head, lay it upon its skull on the table, open the under
part without cutting the tongue, take out the under jaw-bones carefully,
fold the cheeks under, tie it round with string, boil it three hours,
(as described in the last), when done lay it upon a cloth to drain,
untie the string, take out the tongue, peel it, put the point of a knife
in the middle of the skull bone, it will open with facility, take off
the two pieces of bone that cover the brains, and leave them exposed,
place the head upon a dish with one half of the tongue on each side,
(each person that partakes of it should be served with tongue and
brains); serve the following sauce in a boat: put two tablespoonfuls of
chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and
chervil, a quarter ditto of salt, a little pepper, six tablespoonfuls
of salad oil, and three ditto of common vinegar; mix all well together
and serve; each person should stir the sauce previous to helping
themselves to it, for by standing the oil will come to the top; the head
requires to be very hot, but the sauce quite cold.
No. 461. _Half a Calf’s Head à la Luxembourg._
Procure half a calf’s head, pass your knife under the skin upon the top
of the skull and saw off about two inches of the skull bone, boil it as
described in the last, when done drain it on a cloth, lay it in a
sauté-pan, and spread the following forcemeat over it: having previously
well washed the brains, cut them in slices, put two ounces of butter in
a sauté-pan, let it melt, then lay in the brains, sprinkle a little
chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; put them
over a slow fire, turn them, and when done chop them fine and put them
in a basin, with four tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one of chopped
mushrooms, a little more pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg, and
chopped lemon peel; mix altogether, with the yolks of two eggs; after it
is spread wash it over with eggs, with a paste-brush, sprinkle some
bread-crumbs over it, place it in the oven half an hour, salamander a
light brown, place it on a dish, and have ready the following sauce: put
into a stewpan four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, one blade of
mace, two cloves, one spoonful of scraped horseradish, and a glass of
brandy; let it boil five minutes, add three pints of brown sauce (No.
1), and one ditto of consommé (No. 134); when it boils set it at the
corner of the stove, skim it well and reduce it to two-thirds, pass it
through a tammie into a clean stewpan, and add two dozen of pickled
mushrooms, and two dozen very small gherkins; warm altogether, finish
with an ounce of anchovy butter, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, pour
the sauce round the head and serve; you may dress the whole head,
cutting it up as described (No. 459), cover each piece with the
forcemeat, dress them on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve the
sauce in the centre.
No. 462. _Tête de Veau en Tortue._
Dress the head, and when cold cut it in oval pieces, as described (No.
459), make a small elevated casserole of rice in the shape of an oval
vase (see No. 626), which place in the centre of the dish, make the
pieces hot and dish them on a border of mashed potatoes round it,
placing an ear at each end; have ready the following garniture and
sauce: make a mierepoix of two onions, one turnip, half a carrot, a
quarter of a pound of lean ham, all cut up in slices; put them into a
stewpan, with two cloves, half a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme,
marjoram, winter savory, basil, a little parsley, a bay-leaf, and two
ounces of butter; pass it over a fire till it becomes a little brown,
then add four glasses of Madeira, two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1),
half a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), and half a pint of broth, reduce
it on a quick fire twenty minutes, skim it well, pass it through a
tammie into a clean stewpan, boil it again till it adheres to the back
of the spoon, season with half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, and a
little sugar, add twenty prepared cockscombs (No. 128), six French
truffles sliced, twenty blanched mushrooms, and twenty small quenelles
(No. 120); when very hot lay the garniture in the rice casserole, and
pour the sauce over the pieces of calf’s head; an attelet with a
crawfish, truffle, and large quenelle upon it, may be stuck at each end
of the casserole of rice in a slanting direction.
No. 463. _Calf’s Head à la Pottinger._
Dress and cut a head in pieces as before, make two croustades of bread,
one in the shape of a cushion, and the other like a scallop-shell, make
the pieces of head hot, and dress them in your dish on a border of rice
(prepared as No. 626), put the croustade in the form of a cushion at one
end of the dish, and the other elevated upon a piece of fried bread at
the other end, in which put the brains, at each side of the dish dress
an ear cut to form a frill, with a plover’s egg in each; have ready the
following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a
stewpan, with six of the vinegar from Indian pickles, let it boil a few
minutes, then add three pints of white sauce (No. 7), and a pint of
white stock, let it boil until it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass
it through a tammie into another stewpan, add twenty mild Indian
pickles, the same number of small gherkins, and thirty cockscombs (No.
128), when hot pour the sauce over the head, stick three attelets
prepared as in the last in the croustade resembling a cushion very
tastefully, and serve.
No. 464. _Calf’s Head in currie._
Prepare and dish the head as in the last, boil a pound of rice (see No.
129), and dish it in a pyramid in the middle, leaving a place at the top
to lay in the brains; have ready prepared the following sauce: put four
onions, two apples (cut in slices), a sprig of thyme, a little parsley,
a blade of mace, and six cloves into a stewpan, with two ounces of
butter, fry them of a light brown, add one tablespoonful of curry
powder, mix it well, then add three pints of white sauce (No. 7), and a
pint of broth; boil altogether twenty minutes, pass it through a tammie,
put it again into a stewpan, let it boil, season with a little salt and
sugar, pour over the head and serve very hot. If the currie is
preferred browner, use a little brown gravy (No. 135); more currie
powder may be added if required very hot.
No. 465. _Saddle of Mutton à la Brétonne._
Roast a saddle of mutton quite plain (see kitchen at home), for the
sauce wash and soak well a pint of young dry French haricots, put them
into a large stewpan with three quarts of water (cold), an ounce of
salt, and an ounce of butter; set them over a brisk fire till they boil,
then set them at the corner and let them simmer for five hours, or till
tender, drain them on a sieve, cut four onions in thin slices, put them
in a stewpan, with three ounces of butter, stir them over the fire till
they are a light brown colour, then add half a tablespoonful of flour
(mix it well), and a pint of good gravy; when it boils put in the
haricots, mix them well, and season with a saltspoonful of pepper, and
four ditto of salt, add the gravy from the mutton, with half an ounce of
glaze, pour them on the dish, dress the saddle on the top and serve.
Care must be taken not to have this sauce either too thick or too thin.
No. 466. _Saddle of Mutton au Laver._
Roast the saddle quite plain, put two pounds of fresh laver in a
stewpan, with two tablespoonfols of catsup, four ounces of butter, a
teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, four tablespoonfuls of brown
sauce, and one ounce of glaze, make it very hot, pour in the dish, dress
the saddle upon it and serve.
No. 467. _Saddle of Mutton à la Polonaise._
Roast a middling-sized saddle of mutton, and let it get cold, then cut
off all the meat, leaving the bone and flaps uncut, stand it on a strong
dish that will bear the oven; have ready some mashed potatoes rather
stiff with which build a wall round the bone and flaps, to shape it,
again like the saddle, mince the meat you have cut out very fine, put
two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a middling-sized stewpan, with
half an ounce of butter, fry them a very light brown, then add half a
tablespoonful of flour (mix well), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and
half a pint of stock, let it boil ten minutes, then add the mutton (mix
well), season with pepper, salt, and two tablespoonfuls of catsup, make
it quite hot, then add three yolks of eggs, stir well over the fire for
three minutes to set the eggs, put it into the saddle, egg all over with
a paste-brush, cover the top with bread-crumbs, melt a little butter,
which sprinkle over the bread-crumbs, put it in a moderate oven half an
hour, salamander a light brown, serve in the same dish, and pour the
following sauce round; put a pint of brown sauce in a stewpan, with half
a pint of broth, a spoonful of catsup, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and
the smallest piece of garlick imaginable scraped on the tip of a knife,
boil altogether five minutes, it is then ready. This dish may be made of
the remains of a saddle of mutton left from a previous dinner, by
procuring sufficient mutton for mincing, and is equally as good.
No. 468. _Saddle of Mutton à la Marseillaise._
Prepare the saddle of mutton exactly as for Polonaise, only when you put
in the mince, which you have made rather stiffer, have ready prepared
the following purée: cut six onions in small dice, put them into a
stewpan with two ounces of butter, let them simmer gently until quite
tender, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), four ditto of
white sauce (No. 7), and ten of milk, let it boil twenty minutes, season
with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, stir in the yolks of three eggs,
stir over the fire a minute to set the eggs, let it cool a little, and
spread it over the mince, egg over and bread-crumb the top, put it in a
moderate oven half an hour, salamander a light brown, and serve with a
sauce Soubise (No. 47) rather thinnish round it.
No. 469. _Saddle of Mutton rôti, braisé, à la Mirabeau._
Trim a nice saddle of mutton (South Down are the best, from four to five
years old), take off the skin and skewer the flaps underneath, roast it
in vegetables as directed for fillet of beef (No. 417), about two hours
and a half will be sufficient, take it from the vegetables, glaze and
salamander nicely, place it on your dish and serve with the following
sauce: put a quart of poivrade sauce (No. 32) in a stewpan, and when
boiling add a teaspoonful of sugar, four of chopped gherkins, and two
ounces of boiled beetroot cut in dice; sauce over and serve.
No. 470. _Saddle of Mutton, rôti, braisé, aux légumes glacé._
Roast the saddle in vegetables as in the last, glaze and salamander,
dress on your dish with a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which
dress your vegetables prepared as for stewed rump of beef à la Flamande
(No. 428), pouring the same sauce over them.
No. 471. _Haunch of Mutton._
This delicate joint is generally plain roasted (see Kitchen at Home);
when of the first quality and properly kept it is by many compared to
venison, although there is not the least resemblance, the fat of venison
being so very delicate and palatable that nothing can equal it, but both
are very estimable. I shall give but a few simple receipts in order to
preserve the flavour of this delicate joint.
No. 472. _Haunch of Mutton au jus de Groseilles._
Roast the haunch quite plain, put twenty tablespoonfuls of brown sauce
(No. 1) in a stewpan, with ten of consommé (No. 134), one of tomata
sauce (No. 37), and an ounce of glaze, boil it gently half an hour,
then add four tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly, boil up, pour it on
the dish, and the moment you serve lay the haunch upon it; should you
dish the haunch too soon the fat would run from it and spoil the sauce;
it should be carved in the same way as a haunch of venison, then you
keep the gravy from running into the sauce, and can serve it separately.
No. 473. _Haunch of Mutton à la Brétonne._
Plain roast the haunch, and proceed as for saddle of mutton à la
Bretonne (No. 465).
No. 474. _Haunch of Mutton à la Polonaise._
Roast a haunch, and when cold cut out all the meat from the middle,
leaving the edges (or the mashed potatoes would not stand), mince the
meat, shape the haunch with mashed potatoes, and proceed as for the
saddle (No. 467). You can use a haunch left from a previous dinner, if
not too much cut.
No. 475. _Haunch of Mutton à la Bohémienne._
Procure a small haunch of mutton of about twelve pounds in weight, beat
it well with a rolling-pin, lay it in an earthen pan, and cover with a
marinade as prepared for fillet of beef (No. 426), let it remain a week,
roast it in paste in the same manner as for the haunch of venison (see
No. 540); roast it three hours, take it out of the paste, glaze and
salamander of a nice brown colour, put a frill of paper to the knuckle,
and dress upon your dish with the following sauce round it: pass half a
pint of the marinade it was pickled in through a sieve into a stewpan,
add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), let it boil till it becomes rather
thick, skim well, add one tablespoonful of red currant jelly, pass
through a tammie into a clean stewpan, then add twenty blanched
mushrooms, twenty small pickled onions, and twenty French olives
(stoned); let them warm in the sauce, which slightly flavour with a
little scraped garlick sauce over.
No. 476. _Haunch of Mutton aux légumes glacés._
Proceed as directed for the saddle (No. 470).
No. 477. _Leg of Mutton à la Bohémienne._
Proceed as directed for the haunch (No. 475), but of course it will not
require so much time to roast (for which see Kitchen at Home).
No. 478. _Leg of Mutton à la Bretonne._
See saddle of mutton (No. 465).
No. 479. _Leg of Mutton au Laver._
See saddle of mutton (No. 466).
No. 480. _Leg of Mutton à la Provençale._
Procure a nice delicate leg of mutton, beat it well with a rolling-pin,
make an incision at the knuckle in which push four cloves of garlick as
deep into the fleshy part of the leg as you can, roast it quite plain,
and serve a thin sauce à la Brétonne (No. 465) under it, into which you
have put a small piece of scraped garlick.
No. 481. _Gigot de Mouton de sept heures._
What! seven hours to cook a leg of mutton! exclaims John Bull; shade of
the third George protect us, why ‘tis nonsense; to which I must answer
you are right, it would rob it of its flavour; but still it gains
another flavour which is far from being bad; and you must observe that,
although there will be less nourishment it will be much easier of
digestion. Well, well, methinks I hear him say, if you are determined
upon publishing that destructive receipt (which absurdity I am sure no
one upon this soil will ever follow, or disgrace their tables with),
write it in French and offend no one; but for heaven’s sake never invite
me to dine with you on the day you find room for such a dish upon your
table, so taking the hint I give it in my native tongue:--Désosse un
assez gros gigot de mouton jusqu’à la moitié du manche; vous
assaisonnerez des lardons de sel, de gros poivre, de thyme et de laurier
pilés, et vous piquerez le dedans de votre gigot; ne faites pas sortir
vos lardons par-dessous. Quand il est bien piqué, vous lui ferez prendre
sa forme première; vous le ficellerez de manière qu’on ne s’aperçoive
pas qu’on l’ait désossé; vous mettrez ensuite des bardes de lard au fond
de votre braisière, quelques tranches de jambon, les os concassés,
quelques tranches de mouton, quatre carottes, six oignons, trois
feuilles de laurier, un peu de thyme, trois clous de girofle, un bouquet
de persil et de ciboule, deux cuillerées à pot de bouillon: vous mettrez
à cuire votre gigot pendant sept heures, et le ferez aller à très petit
feu; vous en mettrez aussi sur le couvercle de la braisière. Au moment
de servir vous l’égoutterez, vous le déficellerez, le glacerez, et le
servirez avec le mouillement réduit dans lequel il aura cuit; ayant soin
de bien-écumer toute la graisse que votre fond est susceptible d’avoir.
No. 482. _Necks of Mutton à la Légumière._
Cut off the scrags and take the chine bones from two necks of mutton,
lard the lean parts with lardons of fat bacon about three inches long,
roast them in vegetables as for fillet of beef (No. 417); when done,
dress them on a dish, placing fillet to fillet, so as to form a saddle;
fill up the crevice between them with mashed potatoes, upon which dress
small pieces of cauliflower and small bunches of asparagus, or Brussels
sprouts; make a border of mashed potatoes round the mutton, upon which
dress some onions, with pieces of carrots and turnips stewed (see stewed
rump of beef à la Flamande, No. 428), place four onions at each end of
the dish, and stick a fine head of asparagus in each; glaze the mutton,
and pour a demi-glace (No. 9) over the vegetables.
No. 483. _Necks of Mutton à la Bretonne._
Trim the necks as above, roast them quite plain (see Kitchen at Home),
and sauce as for saddle of mutton à la Bretonne, (No. 465.)
No. 484. _Neck of Mutton à la Bohémienne._
Proceed as for haunch of mutton (No. 475), only three days in the
marinade will be sufficient.
No. 485. _Neck of Mutton à la Provençale._
Trim a neck of mutton, lard it, and put it into a convenient sized
stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip (cut in slices), six
cloves, a blade of mace, and a bunch of parsley, thyme and bay-leaves;
cover with white broth, and set it on the fire; when boiling, set it on
the corner to simmer for two hours; take it out, and lay it on a
sauté-pan, spread a purée of onions as for cotelettes de mouton à la
Provençale (No. 701) over the top, egg and bread-crumb it, put it in the
oven a quarter of an hour, salamander a light brown, sauce with
demi-glace as for the cotelettes.
No. 486. _Neck of Mutton à la Charte._
Trim two necks of mutton as before, lard and braise as in the last
article; then peel some young turnips, and cut about a pint of scoops
from them the size of marbles (with an iron scoop); put a teaspoonful of
powdered sugar into a stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and just as
it begins to brown, add two ounces of butter, and the scooped turnips;
pass them ten minutes over the fire, then add a pint and a half of brown
sauce (No. 1), and half a pint of consommée; let it simmer till the
turnips are quite done; take them out, and put them into another
stewpan, skim and reduce the sauce until it becomes rather thickish,
season a little more if required and pass it through a tammie upon the
turnips, dress the necks upon a dish fillet to fillet to form a saddle;
glaze, pour the sauce and turnips round, have twelve pieces of turnips
cut in the form of pears and stewed as (No. 1105), dress six of them,
one upon the other, in pyramids at each end of the dish, and serve very
hot.
No. 487. _Breast of Mutton panée, grillée, sauce piquante._
Procure two breasts of mutton cut as large as possible, which put in a
stewpan, and braise three hours in the same manner as described for neck
of mutton Provençale (No. 485), previous to placing them in the stewpan
tie them well up with string; when done take up, lay them on a dish,
take all the string and bones from them, which will leave with facility,
place another dish upon them, and press till quite cold with a fourteen
pounds weight; about half an hour before serving trim, egg and
bread-crumb, beat gently with a knife, melt a little butter in a
stewpan, and with a paste-brush butter the mutton all over, throw them
again into bread-crumbs, beat gently again with your knife, and put them
on the gridiron over a moderate fire; when lightly browned on one side,
turn them by placing another gridiron over and turning both gridirons
together; when done, take them from the gridiron with a fish-slice, lay
on your dish, and serve sauce piquante (No. 27) round, or you may serve
them with dressed spinach (No. 1087), sauce Soubise (No. 47) or fines
herbes (No. 26).
No. 488. _Saddle of Lamb aux petits pois._
Roast a saddle of lamb in vegetables, as described for fillet of beef
(No. 417); when done glaze and salamander a light brown colour; put a
quart of young peas boiled very green into a stewpan, quite hot, with
two ounces of butter, half a tablespoonful of sugar, a little salt, and
six tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7); shake them round over the
fire a few minutes, pour them in your dish, and dress the saddle over. A
saddle will require about two hours roasting.
No. 489. _Saddle of Lamb à la Sévigné._
Roast the saddle with vegetables as before, make a purée d’asperges (No.
102), cut two large cucumbers in pieces about two inches and a half in
length; cut each piece lengthwise in three, take out the cores, cut them
in the shape of the bowl of a spoon, and stew them as described (No.
103), have ready some quenelles de volaille (No. 120), place a roll of
mashed potatoes at each end of the dish; at the bottom dress half a
circle, with the cucumber and quenelles, by laying them alternately in a
slanting position, and at the top of the dish lay nine quenelles upon a
roll of potatoes, formed like the bows of a boat, so that the first
quenelle stands out in a point, and the others are brought gradually in
to the ends; place a piece of stewed cucumber cut like a diamond between
each quenelle, and dress some nice heads of sprue grass in the centre,
at each end of the dish; place the saddle in the middle, and pour the
purée d’asperges (quite hot) on each side.
No. 490. _Saddle of Lamb à l’Indienne._
Roast the saddle in vegetables as before, then put a quart of sauce à
l’Indienne (No. 45) into a stewpan; when boiling and ready to serve,
add thirty very mild green Indian pickles. When hot, sauce round and
serve.
No. 491. _Saddle of Lamb demi Provençale._
Roast the saddle with vegetables as before; cut six large onions in
small dice, which put into a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of oil;
stir over a slow fire till they are quite tender, then add half a
tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and twelve do. of white sauce (No. 7);
boil ten minutes, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, one do. of
sugar, and a quarter do. of pepper; add the yolks of three eggs, stir it
over the fire half a minute, lay it out on a dish, and when nearly cold
spread it over the saddle a quarter of an inch in thickness; egg and
bread-crumb over, put it in a sharp oven ten minutes, salamander of a
light brown, and serve with sauce demi-glace (No. 9) round it.
No. 492. _Saddle of Lamb à la Ménagère._
Plain roast a saddle[6] and allow it to get cold, cut out all the meat,
leaving the flaps untouched, shape round the saddle a wall of stiff
mashed potatoes, cut the meat up in square thin slices, then put a quart
of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan; let it boil up, put in your meat,
season with lemon-juice, pepper, and salt; moisten with a little white
broth, and when it is quite hot add the yolks of two eggs, mixed with
four spoonfuls of cream; place it within the saddle, egg all over,
sprinkle bread-crumbs on the top, and put it in a sharp oven upon the
dish you intend serving it on a quarter of an hour; have ready poached
eight eggs, lay them on the top, garnish round with peas, Brussels
sprouts, or asparagus, nicely boiled, and pour a white demi-glace (No.
7) round; serve immediately; ham or tongue, with mushrooms cut in
slices, may be added with the lamb.
No. 493. _Haunch of Lamb._
Like the haunch of mutton, this joint is usually plain roasted, but for
a change it may be roasted with vegetables, and served with any of the
sauces, as used for the saddle in the foregoing receipts. It will
require nearly two hours roasting.
The fore-quarter may likewise be dressed the same ways.
No. 494. _Fore-quarter of Lamb à l’Hôtelière._
Roast a fore-quarter well covered with oiled paper, and a good distance
from the fire, when done it must be a light gold colour, then put a
quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79) in a stewpan, and
when beginning to melt add half a pint of good cream; shake the stewpan
round till hot, but not near boiling, and the moment you serve pour it
upon the dish, and dress the fore-quarter upon it.
No. 495. _Fore-quarter of House Lamb aux pointes d’asperges._
Roast the lamb exactly as in the last, have ready a sauce aux pointes
d’asperges (No. 101), pour it hot on your dish, lay the lamb upon it,
and serve. It will take about an hour roasting.
No. 495. _Ribs of Lamb à la Chancelière._
Roast a fore-quarter of lamb with vegetables (see No. 417), and when
done cut out the shoulder very round, cut off all the meat from it, and
mince it very fine, with half a pound of cooked ham, twenty button
mushrooms, and six middling-sized French truffles; then put a
teaspoonful of chopped eschalot in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of
salad oil; fry them of a light yellow colour, add a quarter of a
tablespoonful of flour (mix well), half a pint of stock, and a pint of
white sauce; let it boil, keeping it stirred, add your meat and the
other ingredients, season with pepper and salt, and when boiling add the
yolks of two eggs; stir them in quickly, and pour the whole into the
place you cut the shoulder from; egg it over with a paste-brush,
sprinkle bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over, brown it lightly
with the salamander, dress upon your dish, pour a sauce bechamel à la
crème (No. 56), rather thin, round and serve.
No. 496. _Leg of Lamb à la St. John._
Roast the leg in vegetables as described (see No. 417); an hour and a
half would be sufficient; when done, place a paper frill on the knuckle,
and lay it in your dish; have ready prepared the following sauce: put
the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with half a pound of fresh butter,
the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and two tablespoonfuls
of tarragon vinegar; place it over a moderate fire, keeping it stirred
with a wooden spoon, and when the butter has melted and begins to
thicken (great care must be taken that the eggs do not curdle, which
they will do if you allow it to get too hot before the butter is melted,
or allow it to boil in the least), add a pint of white sauce (No. 7),
and a little sugar; mix all well together, pass through a tammie into a
clean stewpan, place again over the fire to get hot (but not to boil),
keeping it stirred; add half a gill of cream, and if too thick a little
milk, pour it over the lamb, have ready a few pistachios each cut in
eight lengthwise, sprinkle over, and serve very hot.
No. 497. _Leg of Lamb aux pois._
Roast a leg of lamb quite plain, have ready boiled, very green, two
quarts of young peas, put them hot into a stewpan, with three pats of
butter, a tablespoonful of sugar, a little pepper, salt, and six
spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), mix all well together over the fire,
without breaking the peas; pour them in a dish, dress the leg over and
serve.
No. 498. _Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach._
Boil a leg of lamb quite plain, which will take from an hour and a
quarter to an hour and a half (add a little milk to the water you boil
it in), have ready dressed sufficient spinach to cover the bottom of the
dish an inch and a half in thickness, dress the lamb upon it, and serve;
to dress spinach, see No. 106.
No. 499. _Boiled Leg of Lamb à la Palestine._
Boil a leg of lamb, dress it on your dish, and pour a sauce Palestine
(No. 87) over it.
No. 500. _Roast Leg of Lamb à la Jardinière._
Plain roast the lamb, have ready a sauce jardinière (No. 100) pour it on
the dish, and dress the leg upon it.
The shoulder may be dressed exactly as the leg.
No. 501. _Shoulder of Lamb à la Bruxellaise._
Roast a shoulder of lamb with vegetables, and serve with sauce as for
neck of veal à la Bruxellaise (No. 454).
No. 502. _Shoulder of Lamb à la Polonaise._
Cut all the meat from the top of the shoulder and a little from the
bottom, so as not to spoil the shape; build a wall of mashed potatoes
about two inches high round it, and proceed as for saddle of mutton (No.
467).
PORK.
Pork is a great favourite with some persons but scarcely ever used for
removes, except plain roasted stuffed with sage and onions, that I shall
describe in my Kitchen at Home, but I shall here give six new ways of
dressing pork for removes; it must be of the best quality, small, and,
above all, in season.
No. 503. _Leg of Pork sauce Robert._
Score the skin of the leg with a sharp knife, oil some paper, wrap the
leg up in it, and roast about two hours and a half of a nice yellow
colour; have ready the following sauce: put four tablespoonfuls of
chopped onions into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, stir over a
moderate fire till the onions are nicely browned, then add three
tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar (let it boil), a quart of brown sauce
(No. 1), half a pint of consommé, and a little brown gravy; let it boil
at the corner of the stove about twenty minutes, skim it well, reduce it
till it adheres to the spoon, season with a little cayenne pepper, salt,
and two tablespoonfuls of French mustard; when ready to serve add twenty
small gherkins, twenty pickled mushrooms, twenty small quenelles (No.
120), pour the sauce in the dish, dress the leg upon it, put a paper
frill on the knuckle and serve.
No. 504. _Leg of Pork à la Piedmontaise._
Roast the leg as before, and prepare the sauce thus: put two
tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with four of Indian
pickle vinegar, let boil a few minutes, then add twenty tablespoonfuls
of brown sauce (No. 1), and ten ditto of consommé, let boil twenty
minutes, skim well, season with a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and
salt, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan, stone forty French
olives, put them into the sauce, glaze the pork and pour the sauce
round.
No. 505. _Loin of Pork à la Bourguignote._
Trim a small loin of pork, cut off all the rind, wrap it in oiled paper,
and roast of a nice yellow colour; have ready the following preparation:
cut six large onions in small dice and put them in a stewpan, with two
ounces of butter; let them stew over a slow fire till quite tender and
rather brown, then add half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and
fifteen of brown sauce (No. 1); boil twenty minutes, season with a
teaspoonful of chopped sage, half ditto of sugar, and half of salt,
finish with the yolks of three eggs, stir over the fire half a minute to
set the eggs, and spread it over the pork half an inch in thickness, egg
and bread-crumb over it, place it in the oven ten minutes, salamander a
light brown, and serve the following sauce round it: put fifteen
spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) and six of consommé in a stewpan, with
two of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, and half a one of Chili vinegar,
boil altogether ten minutes, and finish with a little sugar, salt, and
pepper, if required.
No. 506. _Neck of Pork à la Remoulade, à l’Indienne._
Trim the neck, but do not take off the rind, wrap it in oiled paper and
roast as previously; make a good sauce remoulade (No. 717), to which add
three tablespoonfuls of chopped Indian pickle, pour the sauce in the
dish and dress the pork upon it.
No. 507. _Neck of Pork à la Vénitienne._
Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce
of butter, fry rather brown, then add half a tablespoonful of flour
(mix well), and twelve ditto of brown sauce, reduce it until thick, add
half a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one ditto of chopped mushrooms,
and season with half a teaspoonful of sugar, a little salt, and cayenne
pepper; let it cool, open part of the neck lengthwise between the skin
and the flesh, put in the above preparation, tie up the neck in oiled
paper and roast it, then prepare the following sauce: put two chopped
eschalots in a stewpan, with a spoonful of salad oil, two tablespoonfuls
of common vinegar, and a small piece of glaze; boil five minutes, then
add six tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), six of consommé, and six
ditto of tomata sauce (No. 37); boil altogether ten minutes, pour the
sauce on your dish and serve the pork upon it.
No. 508. _Roast Sucking Pig._
Procure a sucking pig of from eight to nine pounds, wash the inside and
wipe it well with a dry cloth, prepare the stuffing thus: boil four
large onions until quite tender, chop them very fine, with six leaves of
sage, a little thyme and parsley, season with a little cayenne pepper
and salt, add three tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and mix it with
three eggs, stuff the pig quite full, sew up the belly, put it on the
spit, place it at a distance from a moderate fire (folded in buttered
paper) for half an hour, then put it closer, allowing it two hours to
roast, but ten minutes before it is done take off all the paper to allow
it to become brown and crisp; serve plain gravy in the dish, and bread
sauce with currants in it in a boat; before sending it to table take off
the head and cut the pig in halves down the back.
No. 509. _Sucking Pig à la Savoyarde._
Take a very delicate sucking pig and prepare the following stuffing:
put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with a
teaspoonful of oil, pass them over a moderate fire five minutes, add
half a pound of rice previously well boiled in stock, half a pound of
sausage-meat, four pats of butter, a little chopped parsley, pepper,
salt, and three eggs; mix all well together, stuff the pig, and roast it
in oiled paper, as in the last; prepare the sauce thus: put two
tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a stewpan, with one of salad oil and
fry them quite white, add a wineglassful of sherry or Madeira, a pint of
white sauce (No. 7), and six tablespoonfuls of milk, let it boil a
quarter of an hour, skim well, add a good tablespoonful of chopped
mushrooms, half ditto of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of sugar, ditto
of salt, and a little white pepper; dress the pig in the dish, pour the
sauce round, and garnish with small fried sausages.
No. 510. _Turkey à la Nelson._
Make a croustade resembling the head of a ship, as represented in the
design; procure a very white nice young turkey, truss it as for boiling,
leaving as much of the skin of the neck attached to the breast as
possible, have ready the following stuffing: scrape an ounce of fat
bacon (with a knife), put it into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of
chopped eschalots, pass five minutes over a moderate fire, then add
twenty tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), let it reduce till thick,
add twenty small heads of mushrooms, six French truffles cut in slices,
and twelve cockscombs; mix all well together over the fire, season with
a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, half ditto of salt, and a little white
pepper; finish with the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire a minute
to set the eggs, and lay it out on a dish to get cold, then detach the
skin on the breast from the flesh without breaking, and force some of
the stuffing under the skin; put the remainder in the interior of the
breast, roast it in vegetables as described for fillet of beef (No.
417), but just before it is done take away the paper and vegetables, and
let it remain before the fire till of a fine gold colour. Fix the
croustade at the head of the dish with a paste made of white of egg and
flour, make a border of mashed potatoes round the dish, place the turkey
in the centre, and have ready the following garniture: fillet three
fowls, lard and braise the fillets as No. 792, form the legs into little
ducklings as described (No. 1024), prepare six slices of tongue of the
size and shape of the fillets, and dress them round the turkey upon the
mashed potatoes to form a ship. For the sauce put two glasses of Madeira
wine in a stewpan, with a tablespoonful of Chili vinegar, two minced
apples, a small bunch of parsley, a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, and
half an ounce of glaze; let it boil a few minutes, add ten
tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), a quart of brown sauce (No. 1),
and a pint of consommé, let it boil quickly until it adheres to the
spoon, stirring it the whole time, finish with a tablespoonful of red
currant jelly, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, season
with a little salt and pepper, boil it another minute, glaze the turkey,
pour the sauce in the dish, glaze the pieces of tongue and serve.
No. 511. _Turkey à la Godard._
Procure a good-sized turkey, very white and well covered with fat, truss
it as for boiling, hold the breast over a charcoal fire till the flesh
is set, then lard it with fat bacon very neatly, lay the turkey in a
braising-pan breast upwards, and pour in as much good veal stock as will
nearly reach the larded part, start it to boil, skim, then place it over
a slow fire to simmer for three hours, keeping some live charcoal upon
the cover of the braising-pan, and now and then moistening the breast
with a little of the stock; when done take it up, give a nice yellow
colour to the bacon on the breast, put it on your dish, and have ready
the following garniture: prepare six large quenelles de volaille (No.
122), truss and roast four pigeons (No. 959), lard and cook four fine
veal sweetbreads (No. 671), arrange them with taste round the turkey,
and have ready the following sauce: strain half the stock the turkey was
dressed in through a cloth into a stewpan, let it boil, put it on the
corner of the stove, skim till you get off every particle of grease,
reduce it to half, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), and half a pint
of tomata sauce (No. 37), let boil, keeping it stirred till becoming a
thickish demi-glace, add two dozen cockscombs, and a teaspoonful of
sugar, with a little cayenne and salt if required, pour it in the dish
but not over the garniture, and serve. Attelets of cockscombs and
truffles are sometimes stuck in the breast, but it is an impediment to
the carving, and it looks as well without.
No. 512. _Turkey à la Chipolata._
Although this dish has been degusted by our great great grandfathers,
and has been for upwards of a century one of the strongest pillars of
the art, I shall here describe it, as an old proverb justly reminds me
that a good thing can never get old. Truss the turkey as for boiling,
and to modernize it, lard neatly the right breast, roast thirty good
chesnuts which mix in a basin with one pound of sausage-meat highly
seasoned, stuff the breast of the turkey with it, and braise as in the
last article, when done place it upon your dish, and have ready the
following ragout: cut two pounds of lean bacon in long square pieces
about the size of walnuts, blanch them ten minutes in boiling water, put
two ounces of butter in a middling-sized stewpan, with the bacon, fry
till becoming rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix
well, add by degrees three pints of good white stock, with a quart of
white sauce, stir over the fire till boiling, then put in forty button
onions, twenty fine heads of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, one
bay-leaf, and two cloves; boil altogether, and when the onions are done
take them with the mushrooms and bacon out of the sauce with a colander
spoon, put them into a clean stewpan, with thirty chestnuts roasted
white, and eight sausages broiled, each one cut in three, reduce the
sauce, keeping it stirred till it becomes the thickness of brown sauce,
previously having simmered, and skimmed off all the grease, pass the
sauce through a tammie upon the other ingredients, make all hot
together, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, and pour over and
round the turkey (except over the breast), which serve very hot. The old
style used to be brown, in that case substitute brown sauce for white
and omit the liaison.
No. 513. _Small Turkey à la Duchesse._
Procure a small nice turkey, truss it as for boiling, and roast it in
vegetables as usual, keeping it quite white, place it upon your dish
with a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress twenty-five
quenelles (No. 120), and twelve slices of tongue (cut in the same shape
as the quenelles), have ready boiled very green some French beans cut in
diamond shapes, which sprinkle over the breast of the turkey, and sauce
over with a purée de concombres (No. 105).
No. 514. _Poularde à l’Ambassadrice._
Procure a nice white poularde, cut it open down the back, and bone it
without breaking the skin, make two pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), with
which mix six large French truffles cut in slices, spread the forcemeat
half an inch in thickness upon the inside of the poularde, then have
ready boiled and nicely trimmed a small ox tongue, cover it with the
forcemeat, fold a slice of fat bacon round, and put it in the middle of
the poularde, which roll up and sew from end to end, fold the poularde
in slices of fat bacon, and tie it up in a cloth, have ready prepared
some vegetables of all kinds cut in slices, put them in a
convenient-sized stewpan, lay the poularde upon them, the breast
downwards, but first moisten the vegetables with a little salad oil, add
half a pint of Madeira wine, and sufficient white broth to cover the
poularde, set on a sharp fire to boil, skim, and let it simmer for three
hours, prepare the following garniture: braise two spring chickens
(trussed as for boiling) three quarters of an hour in the braise with
the poularde, have ready prepared a croustade as represented in the
design, upon which place a larded sweetbread nicely cooked and glazed,
place a fine cockscomb and a large truffle upon a silver attelet, and
run it through the sweetbread, sticking it upright in the croustade,
then take the poularde out of the cloth, take off the bacon, pull out
the string it was sewed up with, dry it with a cloth, and place it upon
your dish with the garniture arranged tastefully around it; have ready
the following sauce: chop half a pottle of fresh mushrooms very fine,
put them into a stewpan, with one ounce of butter and the juice of half
a lemon, boil over a sharp fire five minutes, add two quarts of white
sauce (No. 7), with one of the braise, let boil, keeping it stirred,
until it adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammie into
a clean stewpan, adding a few spoonfuls of white broth if too thick,
season with a teaspoonful of sugar and a little salt, cut a few very
black truffles in slices, and chop a couple very fine, place them on a
plate in the hot closet ten minutes; put your sauce again on the fire,
and when boiling add a gill of whipped cream, pour the sauce over the
poularde and chickens, lay the slices of truffles here and there upon
them, and sprinkle the chopped truffles lightly over, the blackness of
the truffles contrasting with the whiteness of the sauce has a pleasing
effect; serve directly you have poured the sauce and sprinkled the
truffles over. The bones being taken out of the poularde they must be
carved crosswise, thus carving through tongue and all.
No. 515. _Poulardes en Diadème._
Make a croustade representing a diadem, stick three silver attelets upon
it, on which you have stuck a crawfish, a large truffle, and a large
quenelle, roast two poulardes quite white in vegetables, and have an ox
tongue nicely boiled and trimmed, place them on the dish with their
tails to the croustade and the tongue between; upon the root of the
tongue and at the end of each poularde place a nice larded sweetbread
well cooked and glazed (or a fine head of cauliflower nicely boiled),
make a border of mashed potatoes round, upon which dress alternately
truffles and fine cockscombs, previously dressed (No. 128); have ready
the following sauce: peel four middling-sized cucumbers, mince and put
them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a quarter of a pound of
lean ham, two chopped eschalots, and a little powdered sugar, pass the
whole over a slow fire, and stew them gently half an hour, or till quite
tender, then mix in half an ounce of flour, add two quarts of white
sauce (No. 7), which moisten with a pint of white broth, let boil till
it adheres to the spoon, stirring the whole time, rub through a tammie
and put it into a clean stewpan, place over the fire, and when boiling
add a gill of cream and two pats of butter; season with the juice of a
lemon, a little salt and sugar if required; pour the sauce over the
poulardes and cockscombs, glaze the tongue, truffles, and sweetbreads
and serve immediately; do not pour the sauce over until quite ready to
serve.
No. 516. _Poulardes à la Vicomtesse._
Make a croustade as represented in the plate (fig. 5), roast two
poulardes in vegetables as in the last; place the croustade in the
middle of the dish, and upon each gradation of it stick an attelet, upon
which you have placed two plover’s eggs warmed in stock; place the
poulardes on the dish breast to breast, and at the tail of each lay
three larded lambs’ sweetbreads (No. 671), make a border of mashed
potatoes round, upon which dress slices of cooked ham warmed in stock,
and cut in the shape of fillets of fowls; have ready prepared the
following sauce: cut into thin slices a little carrot, turnip, onion,
and celery, put them into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, three
cloves, half a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme and parsley,
pass them over a brisk fire until lightly browned, add four
tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and one ditto of common vinegar, let
boil, add two quarts of brown sauce (No. 1), and one of consommé, boil
it twenty minutes, keeping it stirred, pass it through a tammie into a
clean stewpan, add half a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), and two
tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly; boil altogether till it adheres to
the spoon, season with a little salt and pepper if required, sauce over
the poulardes; glaze the pieces of ham and serve immediately.
No. 517. _Poulardes à la Jeanne d’Arc._
Roast the poulardes in vegetables as before, and dress them with
croustade, garniture, and sauce as described in fillet of beef à la
Jeanne d’Arc (No. 418).
No. 518. _Poulardes à la Jeune Princesse._
Bone two nice poulardes as for poularde à l’ambassadrice (No. 514), lay
them on a cloth, have ready prepared four pounds of forcemeat (No. 120),
spread some half an inch in thickness over the inside of the poulardes;
have ready boiled a Russian tongue, which cut in halves lengthwise, trim
each half, lay one upon the middle of each poularde, cut twelve pieces
of fat bacon four inches in length and the thickness of your finger, lay
three pieces upon each side of the tongue at equal distances apart, and
between each piece lay rows of small very green gherkins, season with a
little salt and pepper, cover with a little more of the forcemeat, roll
and sew up the poulardes, tie them in cloths and braise two hours, as
directed for poulardes à l’ambassadrice; when done take them out of the
cloths, pull out the packthread you sewed them up with, dress them on
your dish in a slanting direction, make a border of mashed potatoes
round, have ready twenty small croustades de beurre à la purée de
volaille (No. 405), which dress upon the mashed potatoes at equal
distances apart, and upon the top of each place a plover’s egg (from
which you have peeled off all the shell) warmed in broth, between each
croustade lay small bunches of asparagus (previously boiled), cut an
inch and a half in length, and six or eight in a bunch; have ready the
following sauce: put three quarts of white sauce (No. 7), and one of
white stock in a stewpan, the sauce strongly flavoured with mushrooms,
place it over the fire, keep stirring, reduce to two-thirds, add a gill
of whipped cream, season with a little salt and sugar if required; pour
the sauce over the poulardes, and upon the breast of each sprinkle a few
heads of sprue grass nicely boiled and cut very small; in carving they
must be cut across, it will resemble marble.
No. 519. _Poulardes à la Financière._
Roast two poulardes in vegetables as usual; have ready boiled two ox
tongues, trim them, nicely cutting off part of the tip; when the
poulardes are done dress them up on your dish tail to tail, dress the
two tongues crosswise, that is, the tips of the tongues touching the
tails of the poulardes, have a very fine larded sweetbread nicely cooked
and glazed, which place in the centre (this way of dishing them is very
simple but very elegant); have ready the following ragout: put twenty
dressed cockscombs, twenty heads of mushrooms, four truffles cut in
slices, twelve pieces of sweetbread the size of half-crowns (well
blanched), and twenty small quenelles (No. 120), in a stewpan, in
another stewpan put two glasses of sherry, half an ounce of glaze, a
little cayenne pepper, and a bay-leaf; reduce to half over a good fire,
then add three quarts of espagnole or brown sauce (No. 1), and twenty
spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), boil and skim, reduce, keeping it
stirred till it becomes a good demi-glace and adheres to the back of the
spoon, pass it through a tammie into the stewpan containing the
garniture, add a little powdered sugar, make all hot together, pour over
and round the poulardes, glaze the tongues and serve.
No. 520. _Poulardes à la Warsovienne._
Roast two large poulardes in vegetables, and let them get cold, then
take all the meat from the breast, but be careful to leave a rim half an
inch in thickness, cut up the flesh in small dice, put it into a stewpan
with fifteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), two truffles cut in
slices, and twelve pieces of stewed cucumber (No. 103); season with a
little sugar, salt, and a very little grated nutmeg; stir all very
gently over the fire (being careful not to break the pieces of
cucumber), when it boils add the yolks of two eggs mixed with two
spoonfuls of cream, stir them in quickly; have ready warmed in stock the
carcasses of the poulardes, place the mince in the breasts, egg over,
and bread-crumb round the rims, place them in the oven twenty minutes to
set, then dress them breast to breast on your dish; poach twelve
plovers’ eggs very nicely, lay six upon each poularde, that is, three
upon each side of the breast to form a diamond, then place a small
larded lamb’s sweetbread upon the top between the two poulardes and in
the centre of the eggs, place a fine cauliflower on each side, and sauce
over with a sauce béchamel, or maître d’hôtel (No. 43); glaze the
sweetbread and serve.
No. 521. _Poulardes aux légumes printaniers._
Roast two poulardes in vegetables as before, then with a sharp knife
turn forty young carrots and forty young turnips, keeping them in their
shape as much as possible, wash and place them in separate stewpans,
with a pint of veal stock and half a teaspoonful of sugar, boil until
the stock is reduced to glaze, by which time they will be well done,
place them in a bain marie to keep hot, peel also forty young onions the
same size as your turnips, butter a sauté-pan, put in half an ounce of
sugar (sifted), over which place the onions, cover with veal stock and
let them stew until the stock forms a thickish glaze, place them in the
hot closet until wanted, then take up the poulardes, dress tail to tail
on your dish, make a border of mashed potatoes round, and at each end
place a fine head of cauliflower nicely boiled, then place alternately
an onion and a turnip with a carrot upon the top between, making a
pyramid in the middle of the border on each side; for sauce put the
glaze from the vegetables and onions into a stewpan together, boil and
skim off all the butter, add two quarts of brown sauce, reduce quickly,
keeping it stirred all the time, until it adheres to the back of the
spoon, add a little salt if required; pour the sauce over the whole and
serve.
No. 522. _Poulardes aux légumes verts._
Roast the poulardes in vegetables as usual, then take ten large turnips,
cut each in halves exactly in the centre, peel them thin without leaving
the marks of the knife, and scoop out the centres to form them into
cups, with a round cutter the size of half-a-crown-piece, cut twenty
pieces of turnip one inch in thickness to form stands, stew them nicely
in stock as in the last, but not too much done, and place them in the
bain marie till ready to serve, then place a border of mashed potatoes
round the interior of the dish, leaving sufficient room for your
poulardes, and at each end stick a croustade of bread cut in cups but
larger than those of turnips, place the turnip cups upon their stands at
equal distances apart upon the mashed potatoes, place a nice head of
cauliflower upon each croustade, have ready boiled some very young peas
and heads of asparagus, fill the cups alternately with each, place your
poulardes in the centre, and have ready the following sauce: put two
quarts of white sauce (No. 7) and a pint of white stock in a stewpan,
with the glaze from the turnips, reduce to two-thirds, skim, season with
a little salt and sugar, finish with a gill of cream, sauce all over,
but lightly over the vegetables, and serve.
Capons may of course be dressed in the same manner as poulardes for
removes, but to give a second series would only be a useless repetition.
No. 523. _Petits Poulets à la Warenzorf._
Procure four very nice spring chickens trussed as for boiling, roast
them in vegetables, as described (No. 417), have also ready boiled and
nicely trimmed two deer tongues, place one at each end of the dish
making the tips meet in the centre, place a chicken at each corner, its
tail in the centre, and between each lay a bunch of fine boiled
asparagus; you have made a round fluted croustade of bread about four
inches high, and the same in diameter, ornament it on the top with rings
the size of a shilling, fried very white, and scoop out the middle of
the croustade to form a cup; place it in the centre of your dish, with
some fine heads of asparagus cut about four inches in length standing
upright in it, glaze the tongues nicely, have two quarts of sauce purée
d’asperges (No. 102) ready, which pour over the chickens and serve very
hot.
No. 524. _Petits Poulets à la Périgord à blanc._
Scrape four ounces of fat bacon, which put into a stewpan, with two
bay-leaves, three cloves, and a blade of mace, set over the fire to
melt, and when quite hot take out the spice and bay-leaves, add ten
large truffles cut in slices, and four chopped very fine, with a quart
of white sauce (No. 7), place it over the fire to reduce, keeping it
stirred until becoming very thick, finish with two yolks of eggs and
place it on a dish to cool; procure four nice spring chickens, detach
the skin from the breasts without breaking, force the above preparation
under the skins, sew the skin down (but not too tight, or it would burst
in roasting), roast them in vegetables as usual; have ready a croustade
in the form of a vase, which place in the centre of your dish filled
with fine truffles warmed in strong stock, dress the chickens with taste
around it, first draining them upon a cloth, glaze lightly, and have
ready the following sauce: put two quarts of white sauce (No. 7) into a
stewpan, with a pint of good veal broth, place it on the fire and when
boiling add six large French truffles cut in thin slices, and half a
teaspoonful of sugar, reduce, keeping it stirred until becoming
thickish, add half a gill of whipped cream; pour the sauce round the
chickens and serve very hot.
No. 525. _Petits Poulets à la Macédoine de légumes._
Procure four spring chickens, roast them in vegetables, but just before
they are done take off all the paper and vegetables and let them get a
nice gold colour; prepare and poach a piece of forcemeat (No. 120) four
inches square, and another two inches square, place the smaller one upon
the larger in the centre of the dish, dress the chickens by placing the
tails upon the forcemeat and the breasts towards the edges of the dish;
you have previously peeled and turned twelve Jerusalem artichokes in the
shape of pears, and stewed in white stock, place three at the breast of
each chicken, and a piece of boiled cauliflower between each at the
tail, build some Brussels sprouts pyramidically at the top, and sauce
with macédoine de légumes à brun (No. 99).
Fowls may be dressed in the same manner as the chickens and are used
when chickens cannot be obtained.
No. 526. _Petits Poulets à l’Indienne._
Put one pound of rice nicely boiled (No. 129) in a basin with a quarter
of a pound of suet, a little pepper, salt, cayenne, grated nutmeg,
chopped parsley, two spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one of currie powder,
and three or four eggs, mix all well together, then have four spring
chickens untrussed, fill them with the above, and truss them as for
boiling, stew them one hour gently in a braise as No. 514, make a round
croustade of the form of a cup, five inches high, fill with some
beautiful white rice in pyramid, with seven or eight mild Indian pickles
interspersed, dress the chickens round the croustade, with a piece of
boiled bacon three inches long and two broad between each, pour about
two quarts of sauce à l’Indienne (No. 45) over, and serve very hot.
No. 527. _Petits Poulets au jus d’estragon._
Roast three spring chickens in vegetables, the same as for petits
poulets à la macédoine de légumes, dress them on your dish, and pour a
sauce au jus d’estragon (No. 10) round.
No. 528. _Petits Poulets à la Marie Stuart._
Procure four spring chickens trussed as for boiling, detach carefully
part of the skin from the breasts, and lay slices of French truffles
under the skin, shaping a heart upon the breasts of each, prepare half a
pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), divide it in four parts, and
place one on the top of the truffles under the skin of each breast,
covering with the skin, then put half a pound of butter, two onions, two
bay-leaves, and two wine-glasses of pale brandy, with a little stock
into a flat stewpan, lay in the chickens, place a sheet of buttered
paper over, put on the cover, place it ten minutes over a sharp fire,
then set in a moderate oven for an hour, when done take out the string,
lay them on a clean cloth to drain; have ready a croustade in the form
of a pyramid, which place in the centre of your dish entirely enveloped
with mashed potatoes half an inch in thickness; have ready some fine
heads of asparagus boiled very green, and cut about an inch in length,
stick them upon the pyramid with a small nice white head of cauliflower
at the top, dish your chickens round and sauce with a thin purée of
truffles (No. 53) round them.
No. 529. _Petits Poussins à la Chanoinaise._
Have ready three parts roasted in vegetables six very young spring
chickens trussed as for boiling, cover them all over with forcemeat (No.
120), throw some chopped truffles and ham lightly over, and pat them
into a flat stewpan just covered with some good veal stock, set them in
a moderate oven twenty minutes, with the cover over, and when done dress
them at the corners of the dish upon a little mashed potatoes, place a
small croustade in the centre, upon which place a nicely-cooked larded
sweetbread, glaze well, and have ready the following sauce: put two
quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, with a little sugar, and
when boiling have ready a tongue (ready boiled) cut in slices the size
of half-a-crown-piece, and six large truffles also sliced, put them into
the sauce, and when very hot pour into your dish, but not over the
chickens; serve very hot.
No. 530. _Petits Poulets à la Printaniere._
Roast four spring chickens in vegetables, have ready some young carrots,
turnips, and onions, stewed as directed (No. 428); make a small border
of mashed potatoes round the dish, dress the vegetables with taste upon
it, variegating them with peas or asparagus heads boiled very green,
dress the chickens in the centre and have ready the following sauce: put
two quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) into a stewpan, reduce well over the
fire, keeping it stirred, add half a teaspoonful of sugar and the glaze
from the vegetables, reduce again till it adheres to the back of the
spoon, pour over the chickens and vegetables, and serve very hot.
No. 531. _Petits Poussins à la Tartare._
Procure four very young spring chickens, not trussed, cut off the feet
below the joints, break the bone in each leg, then cut an incision in
the thigh of the chicken and turn the legs into it, cut the chickens
open down the back-bone, and beat them flat, fry five minutes in butter
in a sauté-pan, season with a little pepper and salt, egg and
bread-crumb them all over, lay them on a gridiron over a moderate fire,
and broil a nice light-brown colour; for sauce put ten tablespoonfuls
of white sauce (No. 7) and six of consommé in a stewpan, and when it has
boiled ten minutes add ten spoonfuls of sauce tartare (No. 38), stir
altogether till quite hot, but do not let it boil, pour it on your dish,
garnish the edges of the dish with slices of Indian pickle, dress the
chickens upon the sauce and serve directly; the sauce tartare may also
be served cold with the chickens glazed and served hot upon it.
No. 532. _Petits Poussins à la Maréchal._
Truss and broil four chickens precisely as in the last, and have ready
the following sauce: put three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar into a
stewpan, with a small piece of glaze, half a pint of brown sauce (No.
1), and twenty tablespoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), reduce ten minutes
until forming a demi-glace, pour the sauce in the dish, glaze the
chickens, dish them upon the sauce and serve.
No. 533. _Goose à la Chipolata._
Truss your goose nicely, and lard the breast (with lardons of fat bacon
three inches long) here and there slantwise, then proceed exactly as for
turkey à la chipolata (No. 512).
No. 534. _Goose stuffed with chesnuts._
Procure a fine goose, truss it, chop the liver very fine, cut an onion
in small dice, put them in a stewpan, with the liver, and a quarter of a
pound of scraped fat bacon, pass them over a slow fire for ten minutes
or a little longer, have ready roasted and peeled thirty fine chesnuts,
put them in the stewpan, with two bay-leaves, let them stew slowly over
the fire half an hour, season with pepper, salt, and sugar, and when
nearly cold stuff the inside of the goose, which sew up at both ends;
roast an hour and a half in vegetables, and just before it is done take
away the paper and vegetables and let it get a nice light-brown colour,
dress on a dish and serve a sauce au jus de tomates (No. 12), in which
you have introduced two tablespoonfuls of apple jelly; a little sage may
be added to the above preparation if approved of.
No. 535. _Goose à la Portugaise._
Prepare your goose, then peel four Portugal onions, cut them in thin
slices and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter;
let them simmer over a slow fire until quite tender, then add a
tablespoonful of flour, a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and sugar,
with half a pint of white sauce (No. 7); boil altogether twenty minutes,
then stir in the yolks of two eggs and put it out on a dish to cool,
stuff the goose with it, which roast as in the last, dress upon your
dish with ten stewed Portugal onions and sauce as directed for stewed
rump of beef à la Portugaise (No. 431).
No. 536. _Ducklings aux olives._
Roast four small ducklings in vegetables; have ready a croustade cut in
the shape of a vase, set it on a few mashed potatoes in the centre of
the dish, dress the ducklings with their tails towards it, and have
ready the following sauce: put two quarts of demi-glace (No. 9) in a
stewpan, when it boils have ready turned sixty French olives, which
throw into it, season with half a tablespoonful of sugar, when very hot
put the olives on the top of the croustade, pour the sauce over and
serve directly.
No. 537. _Ducklings au jus d’orange._
Roast four ducklings as in the previous article, dress a croustade in
the centre of the dish, upon which place a fine Seville orange with a
silver attelet through it, dress the ducklings round, and serve with a
jus d’orange sauce (No. 17).
No. 538. _Ducklings aux légumes printaniers._
Roast them as above, and serve as directed for the poulardes (No. 521).
No. 539. _Ducklings à la Chartre._
Roast your ducklings as before, have ready fifty young turnips turned in
the shape of pears, put half an ounce of sifted sugar into a
convenient-sized stewpan, set over the fire, and when it melts and
assumes a brownish tinge add half a pound of butter and the turnips,
toss them over every now and then, and when about three parts done and a
light-brown colour turn them out on a cloth to drain the butter from
them, likewise drain all the butter from the stewpan, put your turnips
again into it, with a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), half a pint of white
stock, and a bunch of parsley, boil altogether ten minutes, or till the
sauce adheres to the spoon, dress a croustade in the form of a vase in
the centre of the dish, dress the ducklings round, take the parsley from
the sauce, dress some of the turnips with taste upon the croustade and
the remainder between each duckling; pour the sauce round and serve.
No. 540. _Haunch of Venison._
May be decidedly called the second great pedestal; turtle soup and
haunch of venison certainly being the two great pedestals, or Gog and
Magog of English cookery. It is appreciated from the independent citizen
to the throne; for where is there a citizen of taste, a man of wealth,
or a gourmet, who does not pay due homage to this delicious and
recherché joint, which ever has and ever will be in vogue; but even
after all that nature has done in point of flavour, should it fall into
the hands of some inexperienced person to dress, and be too much done,
its appearance and flavour would be entirely spoilt, its delicious and
delicate fat melted, and the gravy lost; of the two it would be
preferred underdone, but that is very bad and hardly excusable, when it
requires nothing but attention to serve this glorious dish in
perfection.
A good haunch of venison weighing from about twenty to twenty-five
pounds will take from three to four hours roasting before a good solid
fire; trim the haunch by cutting off part of the knuckle and sawing off
the chine bone, fold the flap over, then envelope it in a flour and
water paste rather stiff, and an inch thick, tie it up in strong paper,
four sheets in thickness, place it in your cradle spit so that it will
turn quite even, place it at first very close to the fire until the
paste is well crusted, pouring a few ladlefuls of hot dripping over
occasionally to prevent the paper catching fire, then put it rather
further from the fire, which must be quite clear, solid, and have
sufficient frontage to throw the same heat on every part of the venison;
when it has roasted the above time take it up, remove it from the paste
and paper, run a thin skewer into the thickest part to ascertain if
done, if it resists the skewer it is not done, and must be tied up and
put down again, but if the fire is good that time will sufficiently cook
it, glaze the top well, salamander until a little brown, put a frill
upon the knuckle, and serve very hot with plenty of plain boiled French
beans separate. For the mode of carving a haunch of venison, see
preface.
No. 541. _Haunch of Doe Venison à la Corinthienne._
Trim your haunch and lard the fillet of the loin and the leg as you
would a fricandeau, put it for a week in a marinade (No. 426), turning
it over every other day; place it on a spit, tied up in oiled paper, and
roast it two hours, but just before taking up, take off all the paper,
to give a nice colour; dress it on your dish with a frill at the
knuckle, and have ready the following sauce: well wash and pick half a
pound of fine currants, soak them in water two hours, dry them well on a
sieve, put half a pint of the marinade through a sieve into a stewpan,
with two glasses of port wine, and two chopped eschalots, reduce to
half, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), reduce till it adheres to the
back of the spoon, add a tablespoonful of currant jelly, pass it through
a tammie into another stewpan, add your currants, season with a little
cayenne pepper, and salt if required, pour the sauce round the haunch,
and serve.
No. 542. _Necks of Doe Venison à la Corinthienne._
Trim two necks of venison by cutting out the shoulders, not too deep,
cut the breast off rather narrow, slip your knife between the rib bones
and the flesh to half way up, saw off the bones, skewer the flap over,
detach the chine bones from the flesh, saw them off, and lard the
fillets; put them in marinade (No. 426) one day (they must be well
covered), tie them up in oiled paper, and roast for one hour; when done
glaze and salamander the tops, dress them fillet to fillet on your dish,
and sauce the same as for haunch à la Corinthienne.
No. 543. _Necks of Venison à la Bohémienne._
Proceed as above, and sauce as for fillet of beef à la Bohémienne (No.
426.)
No. 544. _Faisans à la Corsaire._
Procure three young pheasants, truss them as for boiling, chop the
livers very fine, and put them into a basin with a quarter of a pound of
chopped suet, one pound of bread-crumbs, a little pepper, salt, grated
nutmeg, chopped parsley, and thyme; mix the whole well together with
four eggs, put in a mortar, pound it well, stuff the birds with it, and
roast them in vegetables; make a croustade shaped like the bows of a
ship, dress it at the head of the dish, make a large quenelle (No. 120),
which ornament with truffles to fancy; run a silver attelet through it
lengthwise, and stick it at the top of the croustade, dress the
pheasants on the dish, the tails of two of them touching the croustade,
and the other between, with its breast towards the end of the dish; have
ready the following sauce: put two quarts of the sauce à l’essence de
gibier (No. 60) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white broth; reduce
till it adheres to the spoon, then add twenty dressed cockscombs and
twenty heads of mushrooms; sauce over the pheasants and serve.
No. 545. _Faisans à la Garde Chasse._
Procure four very young hen pheasants, truss them for roasting, merely
cut off the tips of the claws, make a small incision in the leg at the
knuckles, and truss them with their claws resting on their thighs, and
their knuckles over their tails; stuff them with the same preparation as
in the last, but adding a glass of brandy and half a gill of double
cream; put them on your spit, have ready washed and cut from the roots a
few good handfuls of heather from the mountain, surround the birds with
it, and tie them in oiled paper; roast them three quarters of an hour,
take them up, and dress them on your dish in the form of a cross; have
four large quenelles of game (No. 123), and place one between each
pheasant; have ready the following sauce: put two glasses of port wine
in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of sugar, and an ounce of glaze; boil
three minutes, then add a quart of the sauce à l’essence de gibier (No.
60); boil altogether ten minutes, skim, add two ounces of fresh butter,
stir it in with a wooden spoon; when quite melted pour the sauce over
the birds, and serve.
No. 546. _Faisans truffés à la Piémontaise._
Procure four young pheasants as above, but they must be quite fresh,
stuff the breasts of them with half a pound of truffles prepared as for
poularde à la Périgord (No. 524), only using half oil and half bacon,
and adding half a clove of garlic scraped; show as much truffles as
possible under the skin; they must be kept in that way a week or more
(according to the weather), before they are fit for dressing; roast
nearly an hour in oiled paper of a light gold colour, dress upon your
dish in the form of a cross, have ready the following sauce: put two
quarts of clear aspic (No. 1360) in a stewpan, reduce twenty minutes,
cut six raw or preserved truffles in slices, put them into the aspic
with a glass of champagne, hock, or madeira, and a little sugar; stew
them twenty minutes, sauce over your birds, and serve very hot.
No. 547. _Faisans à l’Extravagante._
This is a very elegant remove, and can be made where woodcocks are
plentiful, but to the economiser it would appear a most extravagant
extravaganza; procure two large pheasants and six woodcocks, fillet the
woodcocks and cut each fillet in halves lengthwise, put two ounces of
scraped bacon in a sautépan with a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots
and half a pottle of chopped mushrooms; lay the fillets over them,
season with pepper and salt, set them over the fire five minutes, turn
the fillets, set them again on the fire five minutes longer, add twenty
tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7), half a pound of cockscombs
previously cooked, a little grated nutmeg, and half a spoonful of sugar;
it must be rather highly seasoned; add three yolks of eggs, stir a
minute over the fire till the egg sets, then put it on a dish to cool;
when firm divide it in two, and stuff the pheasants with it, having
previously extracted all the breast bone, sew the skin of the neck over
on the back, but do not draw it too tight, or it would burst on the
breast; surround with fat bacon, and tie them in oiled paper; roast them
one hour, but just before they are done take off the paper and bacon;
shake flour over, and they will become brown and crisp; have ready
prepared the following sauce: put the remainder of the woodcocks in a
stewpan, with two glasses of sherry, a pint of white stock, two
eschalots (cut in slices), a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, two
cloves, and half a blade of mace, let simmer a quarter of an hour, add a
quart of brown sauce, let the whole boil together twenty minutes at the
corner of the stove, take out the pieces of woodcock, and pass the sauce
through a tammie into a clean stewpan, take the flesh and trails of the
woodcocks from the bones, which pound well in the mortar, then put it in
the sauce, boil it up again, season with a little pepper, salt, and half
a teaspoonful of sugar, and rub it through a tammie with two wooden
spoons, the sauce is then ready; for garniture cut twenty-four pieces of
bread in the form of hearts, cover them on one side with forcemeat (No.
123) rather thick in the middle, and fix a cockscomb ready dressed upon
each; butter a sauté-pan, and lay them in it; cover them over with a
sheet of buttered paper, and place them half an hour in a moderate oven;
make a border of forcemeat (No. 120), poached in pieces an inch broad
and half an inch thick, which lay on your dish, upon which dress them,
place the pheasants in the centre, pour the sauce round, glaze the birds
and cockscombs, and serve.
The way to carve pheasants dressed this way is as follows: the breast
being free from bone, detach the legs with a knife, and cut the breast
in slices in a slanting direction; the scraped bacon will escape in
roasting, keeping the birds moist; they will not cut greasy, but will
have a marbled appearance like gallantine.
No. 548. _Grouse à la Rob Roy._
Grouse are the most favourite birds in this country, and certainly the
most welcome; they make their first appearance on the 12th of August, a
time when most delicate palates are fatigued with domestic volatile
productions, at that period they are very properly used for roasts only;
but when more plentiful they are very excellent dressed in the manners I
have here described, though seldom or ever used for removes; I have, for
the sake of variety which is said to be charming, given a few new
methods. Pick, draw, and truss four grouse, make a stuffing like for the
pheasants (No. 544), using the liver of the grouse, stuff and place them
on the spit, surrounded with fat bacon and sprigs of heather, moistened
with a glass of whiskey, tie them up in paper and roast three quarters
of an hour, dress on a dish in the form of a cross, and have ready the
following sauce: put a quart of good melted butter in a stewpan on the
fire, and just as it begins to boil, add a quarter of a pound of butter;
stir the sauce till the butter is melted, season rather high, and pour
over your birds; (the sauce must be rather thick, but not too thick;)
under each bird place a piece of toasted bread well glazed; serve very
hot.
No. 549. _Grouse à la Corsaire._
See Faisan (No. 544).
No. 550. _Grouse à la Piémontaise._
See Faisan (No. 546).
No. 551. _Grouse à la Garde Chasse._
See Faisans (No. 545).
_Of Black Cocks and Grey Hens._
These birds are a similar flavour to the grouse, only much larger, and
may be dressed just in the same manner, only two cocks will be
sufficient for a remove of ten or twelve persons if well garnished with
quenelles, cockscombs, mushrooms, truffles, &c.
No. 552. _Hare à la Macgregor._
Skin a fine young hare, and truss it as for roasting, stuff with a
forcemeat made of the liver (see faisan à la corsaire, No. 544), put it
on the spit, rub well with oil, and while roasting sprinkle a little
flour over now and then; have ready the fillets of three other hares
skinned and nicely larded, put some butter in a sauté-pan, and fry them
gently of light brown colour, rather underdone; cut each fillet in
halves, and have twelve pieces of toasted bread cut in the form of
hearts, of the same size as the fillets; dress them alternately on your
dish upon a border of mashed potatoes, dress the hare in the centre,
glaze the fillets and bread, and pour a quart of sauce poivrade (No.
33), in which you have introduced a spoonful of mild orange marmalade
instead of the currant jelly, over the hare, and serve very hot.
No. 553. _Levraut à la Coursière._
Skin and draw two leverets just caught by the dogs, save the blood in a
basin, truss them for roasting, lard the fillets, roast half an hour
before a quick fire, put a quart of poivrade sauce (No. 32) in a
stewpan; when boiling stir quickly with a wooden spoon, and pour in the
blood; add a little salt, cayenne pepper, a tablespoonful of currant
jelly, four pats of butter, and the juice of a lemon; sauce over the
leverets and serve immediately.
FLANCS.
Flancs are required in every dinner where there are more than four
entrées; they are served upon oval dishes of from eighteen inches in
length to nine in width, and require a little depth; for flancs being
made dishes, like removes, the dish must contain the sauce. My readers
will perceive by the Index that many of them are like the removes; but
these I shall merely give references to, my object in placing them with
the flancs being to show that by being reduced in size they will do for
flancs in large dinners, and also be an assistance in the making of
bills of fare.
Flancs are to be made of one or two solid pieces of poultry, game,
butcher’s meat, or pastry, and keep everything which is divided into
many pieces, as cotelettes, fillets, escalopes, fricassées, salmis, &c.,
for entrées as much as possible, by doing which you will add more
importance to your dinner, and cause more harmony in the arrangement.
No. 554. _Fillet of Beef piqué aux légumes printaniers._
Procure a piece of fillet of beef fifteen inches in length, lard, trim,
and dress it as directed (No. 417); when ready to serve dress a border
of mashed potatoes on your dish; have ready twenty young carrots, twenty
young turnips, with twenty small onions, dressed as directed for
poulardes (No. 521); dish them upon the mashed potatoes with a small
cauliflower nicely boiled at each end of the dish, place your fillet in
the centre, glaze it, and sauce with a demi-glace, made also as directed
for the poulardes, but half the quantity will be sufficient.
No. 555. _Filet de Bœuf au jus de groseilles._
Procure and lard a piece of fillet of beef the same size as in the last,
pickle it four or five days, as directed for filet de bœuf (No. 426);
when wanted take it from the marinade, dry it, and roast it in paper,
but ten minutes before it is done take off the paper to allow it to
colour a little; place it on your dish, and have ready the following
sauce: run half a pint of the marinade through a sieve into a stewpan,
add an ounce of glaze, place it on the fire, reduce it to half, add a
quart of brown sauce, and again reduce it till it becomes a clear
demi-glace; skim it when required, add half the rind of a lemon, the
peelings of a few mushrooms, a little scraped garlic, the size of a pea,
and a spoonful of very bright currant jelly; stir it two minutes over
the fire, season it rather high, pass it through a tammie, sauce over
the fillet, and serve.
No. 556. _Fillet of Beef à la Beyrout._
Procure but a piece of fillet the same size as in the last, and proceed
as directed (No. 419).
For Filet de Bœuf à la Milanaise,
Do. au jus d’orange, and
Do. au jus de tomates,
see Removes, Nos. 425, 420, 421, merely substituting a piece of the
fillet when serving them as flancs.
No. 557. _Langue de Bœuf à la Marquise._
Boil a nice ox-tongue three hours, when done take the skin off
carefully; by allowing it to get cold, you can cut any design upon it
your fancy may dictate, but I prefer sending them plain, merely trimming
it. You have previously filleted and dressed three chickens, as
described for suprème de volaille, (see No. 808), then make a border of
mashed potatoes round your dish, and dress half the fillets of chicken
on each side, one upon the other in a slanting direction; have ready
dressed four nice larded sweetbreads, place two at each end, and the
tongue in the centre, have ready the following sauce: put a pint and a
half of white sauce (No. 7) in the sauté-pan in which you cooked your
fillets of chickens, with twelve spoonfuls of good veal stock, stir it
over the fire till it becomes rather thick, then add a gill of cream and
a little powdered sugar, mix all well together, pass it through a tammie
into a stewpan when hot, sauce over the fillets, glaze the sweetbreads
and tongue, and serve very hot.
No. 558. _Langue de Bœuf à la Prima Donna._
Boil the tongue as in the last, then have ready twenty-four quenelles of
veal (No. 120), dress a low border of mashed potatoes round the dish,
upon which dress the quenelles, making them go quite round, then have
ready the following sauce: put twenty spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7),
and ten of veal stock in a stewpan; let it boil ten minutes, then add a
quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), mix it very quick
over the fire, and when melted sauce over the quenelles; put a nicely
boiled Brussels sprout between each quenelle, glaze the tongue, and
serve.
No. 559. _Langue de Bœuf à la St. Aulaire._
Cook the tongue as before, and when done fix it on the dish upon mashed
potatoes; have ready the following ragout: cut four middling-sized
cucumbers into pieces about an inch and a half in length, split each
piece in three, take out the seeds from each piece, peel them and trim
them at the corners, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, half
a spoonful of powdered sugar, and two chopped eschalots; stew the
cucumbers very gently till quite tender, but not to break them, then
cut the breast of a cooked fowl into slices the size of the pieces of
cucumber and add with them; then add a quart of hot bechamel sauce (No.
7) and a little white stock, shake the stewpan over the fire, but do not
stir it with a spoon, or you would break the contents; finish with a
liaison made from the yolk of one egg, pour it round the tongue, and
serve.
No. 560. _Langue de Bœuf à la Jardinière._
Cook the tongue as before, fix it in your dish upon mashed potatoes, and
serve with a jardiniere sauce (No. 100) round it.
No. 561. _Langue de Bœuf à la Milanaise._
Cook as before, and serve with a sauce à la Milanaise (No. 49) under it,
to which has been added some fillets of fowl cut the same size as the
pieces of macaroni.
Ox-tongues may also be served with sauce piquante (No. 27) or sauce à
l’Italienne (No. 30), and they are frequently served as a flanc, quite
plain, especially when the opposite flanc is composed of veal or
poultry.
No. 562. _Westphalia Ham, small._
These hams require to be well soaked in water, and scraped previous to
dressing; boil from three to four hours, and when done take off the
skin, leaving a little on the knuckle, which you cut as fancy may
direct; glaze it nicely, put a paper frill upon the knuckle-bone, and
serve it plain, or it may be served with any of the following sauces:
poivrade (No. 32), jardinière (No. 100), Milanaise (No. 49), or dressed
spinach (No. 1087); but when it is intended to be eaten with a remove of
poultry, it is as well served plain.
No. 563. _Loin of Veal à la Cambaçéres._
For this see Removes (No. 441), only in this instance substitute the
thin end of the loin only, and that not too large.
No. 564. _Loin of Veal à la Crèmière._
Procure part of a loin about the size your dish will conveniently hold,
place it on a spit and have ready some vegetables of all kinds cut
small; lay them on two or three sheets of thickish paper, moisten them
with half a pint of cream, tie the veal up in them and roast it two
hours, make a border of mashed potatoes round your dish, upon which
dress twelve nice poached eggs; take up the veal, clear it from the
vegetables, and dress it in the centre; have ready the following sauce:
put a quart of bechamel sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with a little grated
nutmeg, salt, and sugar; stir it over a quick fire, boil it ten minutes,
then add a gill of cream, the juice of a lemon, and an ounce of fresh
butter, pour it over the eggs and veal, and serve; the sauce requires to
be rather thick, but if too much so, thin it with a little milk; if
sprue grass is in season, a few of the heads boiled, and lard between
the eggs, would have a pleasing effect.
For Loins à la purée de céleri,
Do. macédoine de légumes, and
Do. à la Strasbourgienne
See Removes, Nos. 443, 442, and 444.
No. 565. _Noix de veau pique au jus._
Procure a very white leg of veal from a cow calf, saw off the knuckle,
lay the fillet on the table and cut it open without cutting through the
meat, that is cut from the bone in the centre under the udder until you
cut through the skin, take out the bone, and lay it out, there will be
three separate lumps of meat, the largest of which is the noix (or
nut); to cut it out press your hand upon it and with a sharp knife cut
down close to the skin, separating it from the skin till it comes to the
udder, then bring the knife up, lay the piece upon the table the best
side downwards and beat it well, trim it of a nice shape, and lard it
with pieces of fat bacon two inches long and slender in proportion, cut
off the udder and sew it to the side, put a few slices of bacon in a
flat stewpan, with two or three onions cut in slices, half a bunch of
parsley, two bay-leaves, and a sprig of thyme, lay in the noix, add a
pint of white broth, then put the lid on the stewpan, and place it in a
moderate oven for three hours, occasionally looking at it, taking care
that the gravy does not become dry or burnt, if it becomes dry add a
little water to moisten it, but not enough to cover the veal, which
moisten now and then with the gravy; when done, glaze it nicely,
slightly colour it with the salamander if required, and lay it on a
dish, keep it hot, then pass the gravy through a tammie into a smaller
stewpan, set it on the corner of the fire, skim off all the fat, pour it
in your dish, and lay the noix in the last moment of serving, or the fat
would run, and give the gravy a bad appearance.
No. 566. _Noix de Veau à la Potagère._
Procure and dress a noix de veau as in the last, excepting the udder,
which is not required, and you need not be particular about its being
the leg of a cow calf; when cooked make a border of mashed potatoes
round your dish, upon which dress several pieces of nice cauliflowers,
(about the size of eggs,) which you have previously boiled, place the
noix in the centre the last thing before serving, and have ready the
following sauce: put thirty spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a
stewpan with ten of the gravy from the noix, (free from fat,) boil ten
minutes, then add half a gill of cream and a little sugar, pour the
sauce over the cauliflowers, glaze the noix and serve immediately,
throwing a few green peas, well boiled, round.
No. 567. _Noix de Veau à la Palestine._
Prepare and dress the noix as in the last, then wash and peel two dozen
middling-sized Jerusalem artichokes, give them the shape of pears, boil
them in salt and water in which you have put a piece of butter, boil
them till tender, make a small border of mashed potatoes upon your dish,
on which dress the artichokes, the thick part uppermost, scoop a piece
out of the top of each, and stick in a nicely-boiled Brussels sprout,
place the noix in the centre, glaze it and pour a thin sauce à la purée
d’artichaut (No. 90) over the artichokes and serve.
No. 568. _Noix de Veau aux légumes nouveaux._
Prepare and dress the noix as in the last, then have prepared twenty
young carrots, twenty young turnips, and twenty young onions, prepared
as described in the article stewed rump of beef à la Flamande (No. 428),
dress them tastefully upon your dish upon a thin border of mashed
potatoes, place the noix in the centre and have ready the following
sauce: mix the glaze from the vegetables with a quart of brown sauce
(No. 1), and half a pint of the gravy from the noix, (but quite free
from fat,) in a stewpan, place it over the fire and reduce till it
becomes a thickish demi-glace, keeping it well skimmed, sauce over the
vegetables, glaze the noix and serve.
No. 569. _Noix de Veau à la purée de champignons._
Prepare and dress the noix as before, and have ready a sauce à la purée
de champignons (No. 54), pour it on your dish, lay the noix over, glaze
and serve immediately.
No. 570. _Noix de veau à la Prince Albert._
Prepare and dress the noix as before, have likewise ten lambs’
sweetbreads larded and dressed (see No. 746), also ten plovers’ eggs,
which peel and warm in white stock, make a thin border of mashed
potatoes round your dish, and dress the sweetbreads and plovers’ eggs
alternately upon it; place the noix in the centre, place a ring of
truffles upon each plover’s egg, and have ready the following sauce:
pass the gravy from the noix and sweetbreads through a sieve into a
stewpan, set it on the fire, skim off all the fat, add a quart of brown
sauce (No. 1) and a pint of consommé (No. 134), reduce it quickly over
the fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon, and when reduced to a
thinnish glaze take it off the fire, add a little sugar, and two pats of
butter; glaze the sweetbreads and noix, sauce round and serve
immediately.
No. 571. _Neck of Veal à la St. Clair._
Trim the best end of a very nice neck of veal, see Removes (No. 451),
roast it in vegetables, and give it a nice gold colour; make a border of
mashed potatoes round your dish, upon which dress a number of slices of
fried ham, (each cut in the shape of a long heart,) to form a crown,
place the veal in the centre, and pour some very thin tomata sauce (No.
37) (in which you have mixed half an ounce of anchovy butter) round, and
serve. For neck of veal à la purée de celeri, ditto à la macédoine de
légumes, and ditto à la crèmière, (see Nos. 451, 422 and 564.)
No. 572. _Calf’s Head à la Constantine._
Cook half a calf’s head as directed (No. 459), and when done lay it on a
dish with another dish upon it, on which place a fourteen pounds weight,
when cold cut twelve nice oval pieces out of it, egg each piece over
with a paste-brush, and throw it into bread-crumbs mixed with chopped
lean ham; set them in the oven and when quite hot and of a nice gold
colour dress them in a crown round your dish upon a border of mashed
potatoes, place the brains at each end of the dish, and have ready the
following sauce: make a quart of sauce au jus d’échalotte (No. 16), well
seasoned, add to it twenty pickled mushrooms and forty very small white
pickled onions, warm them five minutes in the sauce, then pour the sauce
in the centre, glaze the pieces of calf’s head and serve very hot. For
calf’s head en tortue, ditto à la Hollandaise, and ditto à l’amiral, see
Nos. 462, 459 and 463.
No. 573. _Neck of Mutton demi Provençale._
Prepare and braise a neck of mutton as described for the Removes, see
that it is not too fat; you have prepared a purée of onions like for the
cotelettes (see No. 701), spread some over the neck about a quarter of
an inch thick, egg and bread-crumb it lightly, then put it in a hot oven
twenty minutes, if not sufficiently coloured pass the salamander over
it, then have ready the following sauce: put a pint of brown sauce in a
stewpan, with half the quantity of good stock, reduce it over the fire
till it comes to a nice demi-glace, add a little scraped garlic the size
of a couple of peas, dress the neck in a dish and pour the sauce over;
serve very hot; a little seasoning may be added to the sauce if
required.
No. 574. _Neck of Mutton à la Soubise._
Prepare, lard, and braise a neck of mutton as described in the Removes
(No. 482), when done glaze it well, pass the salamander over, place it
in your dish, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) poured round it.
No. 575. _Neck of Mutton à l’Algérienne._
Procure a large neck of mutton, trim it as before, and lard the lean
part with fine cut bacon, like for the noix de veau, make two quarts of
marinade (see fillet of beef à la Bohémienne, No. 426), and lay the neck
in it for three days, then run a skewer through it and fix it on your
spit, roast it about an hour, giving it a very good colour; have ready
the following sauce: strain half a pint of the marinade into a stewpan,
add a pint of brown sauce and a small piece of glaze, reduce it till
forming a thickish demi-glace; you have previously soaked twenty very
nice French plums in boiling water twenty minutes, drain them on a
sieve, and when dry throw them into the sauce, season with a little salt
and cayenne pepper, pour the sauce in your dish, dress the neck upon it
and serve.
No. 576. _Neck of Mutton à la Portugaise._
Prepare, lard, and braise a neck of mutton as before, then peel six
middling-sized Portugal onions, blanch them twenty minutes in boiling
water, then lay them on a cloth to drain, put a quarter of a pound of
butter in a flat stewpan, let it melt, lay in the onions, add one ounce
of sugar, and a little salt, and just cover them with a little white
stock, let them simmer gently for one hour or more until quite tender,
take them out carefully, lay on a cloth, cut them in halves, dress in a
border round the dish, and lay the neck in the centre, then take the
butter from the stock the onions were stewed in, put half a pint of it
in a stewpan, with a quart of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of
stock, reduce it till it becomes again thickish, and pour it over the
onions round the mutton, which glaze and serve very hot.
For neck of mutton à la légumière, ditto à la Brétonne, and ditto à la
Chartre, see Removes, Nos. 482, 483, and 486.
No. 577. _Loin of Mutton en Carbonade._
Bone a loin of mutton carefully, leaving the small fillet attached, lard
it well with pieces of lean ham and fat bacon, season with chopped
eschalots, chopped parsley, pepper and salt, roll it up as tight as
possible, previously putting in some forcemeat (No. 120), tie it up with
string, put in a stewpan, with some white stock and vegetables, let it
stew gently two hours and a half, then take it up, cut off the string,
trim it at each end, glaze the top, pass the salamander over to give it
a nice colour, and serve with dressed spinach (No. 1088), sauce Soubise
(No. 47), or sauce piquante (No. 27).
No. 578. _Carbonade de Mouton à la Bourginotte._
Prepare a loin of mutton as in the last, then peel one hundred button
onions, put half an ounce of pounded sugar in a stewpan, set it over the
fire and as soon as it is melted add half an ounce of butter and the
onions, place them over a slow fire, tossing them every now and then,
when getting tender add a pint and a half of white sauce (No. 7), and a
pint of white stock, with a small bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf,
set it on the fire till the onions are quite done, take them out with a
colander spoon and put them in a clean stewpan, reduce the sauce till it
becomes rather thickish, pass it through a tammie upon the onions, warm
altogether, pour the sauce in your dish, place the carbonade in the
centre, which glaze and serve very hot.
For breast of mutton à la Soubise, sauce piquante, tomate, &c., see
Removes No. 487.
No. 579. _Saddle of Lamb à la Bonne Fermière._
Procure a very small saddle of very white lamb, trim it according to the
size of your dish, roast it in vegetables as described in the Removes
(No. 417), then boil two lambs’ frys in water five minutes, drain it on
a sieve, egg and bread-crumb it, and fry in very hot lard, set the
saddle in the centre of your dish, dress the fry around it, and garnish
with parsley fried nice and crisp, put a quart of consommé in a stewpan,
let it reduce to more than half, add a little sugar and chopped mint,
and pour it in the dish but not over the fry.
For saddle of lamb aux petits pois, ditto à la Sévigné, ditto à la
menagère, and ditto demi Provençale, see Removes Nos. 488, 489, 492, and
491.
No. 580. _Shoulder of Lamb farci aux truffles._
Take the blade bone carefully out of a shoulder of lamb without bursting
the skin, lard the under part with pieces of fat bacon about an inch and
a half long and a quarter of an inch in thickness, lay it upon a cloth,
season it, and spread some forcemeat about an inch in thickness down the
centre in a line with the knuckle, cut some long strips of cooked ham or
tongue and lay upon it, with some truffles cut in as long strips as
possible, then roll the flaps over and sew it up, giving a nice oval
appearance, tie it up in a cloth and put it in a stewpan, with two large
onions, two carrots, two turnips, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and
bay-leaf, some trimmings of veal, beef, or mutton, cover the whole with
some white stock (or water, but then you must put more meat), let it
simmer for three hours, skim it well, add half a pint of bucellas wine,
take up the lamb, untie it, pull out all the string, drain upon a cloth,
lay it on your dish, place a paper frill upon the knuckle bone, keep
hot, and prepare the following sauce: take one quart of the stock it
was cooked in, which pass through a tammie into a stewpan, take off all
the grease, add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), reduce it to a demi glaze,
season with a little sugar and salt if required, pour it round the lamb
and serve very hot; to carve it cut it in slices crosswise, it will have
a marbled appearance.
No. 581. _Shoulder of Lamb farci à la Financière._
Proceed exactly as in the last, but serve with a ragout financière (No.
50) instead of the sauce.
No. 582. _Shoulder of Lamb farci à la purée de pois vert._
Proceed as before, but omit the truffles, and serve with a purée of
green peas (No. 86).
No. 583. _Shoulder of Lamb à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Plain roast a small shoulder of lamb, then put a gill of good cream in a
stewpan, place it over the fire, and when boiling add a quarter of a
pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), stir it till melted and pour it
over the lamb.
No. 584. _Neck of Lamb aux légumes printaniers._
Trim a nice white neck of lamb in the manner described for mutton (No.
482), keep it nice and square, run a skewer through and roast it with
vegetables, make a border of young vegetables on your dish prepared as
for fillet of beef (No. 554), dish the lamb in the centre, sauce over
the vegetables, and serve sauce the same as for the filet de bœuf.
No. 585. _Neck of Lamb aux petits pois._
Proceed as in the last, when roasted prepare a quart of peas as directed
(No. 84), pour them on your dish and dress the lamb upon it.
No. 586. _Neck of Lamb à la Bruxellaise._
Trim and braise a neck of lamb as before, keeping it as white as
possible, make a very nice green purée of Brussels sprouts (as directed
No. 81), pour the purée in your dish and dress the lamb upon it.
No. 587. _Neck of Lamb à la Douairière._
Trim and braise a neck of lamb as above, have twelve lambs’ sweetbreads,
six hearts, and six throats, blanch them, lard the six heart-breads, and
dress them as (No. 674), cut the six throat-breads in slices and put
them in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, three chopped
eschalots, a little pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon; let them
simmer ten minutes, then add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), twenty
tablespoonfuls of white stock, and a small bunch of parsley, simmer
twenty minutes, take out the parsley, add twelve fine cockscombs ready
dressed, (see No. 128), and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs
mixed with a gill of cream; do not let it boil after the liaison is in,
pour the sauce on your dish, lay the neck upon it, glaze the larded
sweetbreads, dress them round the neck and serve; keep the neck as white
as possible.
No. 588. _Neck of Lamb à la Maître d’Hôtel_
Plain roast a neck of lamb and proceed as directed for shoulder (No.
583).
No. 589. _Petits Poussins à la Moskovite._
Truss two chickens as for boiling, dip the breasts in boiling water one
minute, and lard them very nicely, braise them thus: put some slices of
fat bacon at the bottom of a flat stewpan, lay in the chickens breast
upwards, put in two onions, one carrot, one turnip, four cloves, and a
small bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, add as much white stock as
will come up to the larded part of the chicken, cover with a sheet of
buttered paper, put the cover on the stewpan and place it over a slow
fire, let them simmer very gently about half an hour, a short time
before they are done lay some red hot charcoal upon the cover of the
stewpan to colour the larded part of the chickens; have ready the
following sauce: you have previously boiled a very nice Russian tongue,
with a sharp knife trim it and cut it into long thin slices, cut also
ten large gherkins in thin slices lengthwise, put two tablespoonfuls of
finely chopped onions in a stewpan, with four of the vinegar from the
gherkins, reduce it to half, then add three pints of white sauce (No.
7), and a pint of white stock, boil it a quarter of an hour, or till it
becomes rather thickish, pass it through a tammie into a clean stewpan,
warm it, season with a little cayenne and a teaspoonful of pounded
sugar, add the slices of tongue and gherkins, and when quite hot add a
gill of cream; pour the sauce on the dish upon which lay the chickens,
slantwise, the breasts pointing contrarywise.
No. 590. _Petits Poussins à l’Ecarlate._
Roast two spring chickens in vegetables as directed in the Removes; you
have previously boiled an ox tongue, which cut in halves lengthwise,
trim each piece to imitate two small tongues, fix them on mashed
potatoes on your dish, the points in the centre and the thick parts at
the ends, then dress the chickens tail to tail to form with the tongues
a cross; have ready boiled five small heads of cauliflower, place one of
them in the centre upon the tails of the chickens, and one between the
chickens and tongue in each space; have ready the following sauce: put
three pints of white sauce in a stewpan, with a pint of white stock,
boil till rather thick, season with a little sugar and salt, finish
with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, mixed with a gill of cream, sauce
over the chickens and cauliflowers, glaze the tongue and serve.
No. 591. _Petits Poussins à la Palestine._
Roast two spring chickens in vegetables as before, prepare forty
Jerusalem artichokes and dress in a border round the dish, as directed
for noix de veau à la Palestine (No. 567), dress the chickens in the
centre, and sauce the same as in the last article.
No. 592. _Petits Poussins à la Vénitienne._
Truss, lard, and braise two chickens as before, dress them on a dish,
and have ready the following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped
eschalots in a stewpan, with one of salad oil, pass them a few minutes
over the fire, then add two glasses of sherry, reduce to half, add a
pint and a half of white sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of white stock,
reduce it till it comes to a proper consistency, add one tablespoonful
of chopped mushrooms, one of chopped truffles, and one of chopped
parsley; season with a little sugar and salt, throw in twelve fine
cockscombs ready dressed, squeeze a little lemon-juice in, and finish
with half a gill of cream, sauce over and serve.
No. 593. _Petits Poussins à la Prince Albert._
Truss and braise two chickens as above, then have eight lambs’
sweetbreads, and eight plovers’ eggs, as directed for noix de veau à la
Prince Albert (No. 570), make a border as there described, and dress the
chickens in the centre; have ready the following sauce: put a quart of
good veal stock in a stewpan, with the trimmings and bones of a cooked
fowl, reduce it to half, pass it through a sieve into another stewpan,
skim it, then add a pint of tomata sauce (No. 37), half a pint of white
sauce, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; boil altogether ten minutes,
finish with two pats of butter, and when melted pour it over the
chickens; glaze the sweetbreads and serve.
No. 594. _Petits Poussins au jus d’estragon._
Braise two chickens as directed for à la Moscovite (No. 589), but they
will not require larding, and completely cover them with stock; when
done pass the stock through a tammie into another stewpan, place it on
the fire, skim off all the fat, and clarify it as directed (No. 134),
place it again on the fire and reduce it to a very thin glaze, add two
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and half a one of sugar, throw in twenty
leaves of tarragon, boil altogether two minutes, dress the chickens on a
dish, sauce over and serve.
For petits poussins à la maréchale, and ditto à la tartare, see Removes,
Nos. 532, 531.
No. 595. _Petits Poussins à la Chevalière._
Truss, lard, and braise the chickens as directed for à la Moscovite (No.
589), only let them stew rather longer, dress on your dish, and have
ready the following sauce: peel about forty button onions, put a quarter
of an ounce of powdered sugar in a stewpan, place it on the fire, and
when the sugar melts add an ounce of butter and the onions, pass them
over a slow fire till they become tender, but they must be kept quite
white, add a quart of white sauce (No. 7), half a pint of veal stock,
and a good bunch of parsley; let it simmer until the onions are quite
done, take them out with a colander spoon and put them in another
stewpan, reduce the sauce until it becomes sufficiently thick, then pass
it through a tammie over the onions, add twenty heads of mushrooms, boil
up, and finish with two pats of butter, a little sugar, and a liaison of
two yolks of eggs; pour the sauce on your dish, dress the chickens over
and serve; you can lard and dress the fillets of two chickens as
directed (No. 792), and garnish your chickens with them.
No. 596. _Petits Poussins à la Marengo._
Take two spring chickens and truss them as directed for poulet à la
maréchale (No. 532), put four tablespoonfuls of oil in a flat stewpan,
lay in the chickens, previously seasoned with pepper and salt, place
them over a moderate fire, put the cover on the stewpan, let them go ten
minutes till they become brown, then turn them and let remain till the
other side is browned, pour off the oil, then add a pint of brown sauce,
one bay-leaf, and a pint of good consommé, place it over the fire for a
quarter of an hour, take out the chickens, lay them on your dish and
keep hot, throw about forty heads of mushrooms into the stewpan, with a
little sugar and a clove of scraped garlick, reduce the sauce till it
becomes rather thickish; pour it over the chickens and serve.
Poulet à la Marie Stuart (No. 528),
Do. à la Périgord (No. 524),
Do. à la macédoine de legumes (No. 525),
Do. à l’Indienne (No. 526),
which are given in the Removes, may also be served for flancs, reducing
the quantity to the size of the dish.
No. 597. _Ducklings aux petits pois au lard._
Truss two ducklings with their legs turned inside, roast them in
vegetables, but just before they are done take away the vegetables and
let them obtain a little colour; have ready boiled three pints of young
peas, which put in a stewpan, with half a teaspoonful of salt, three of
sugar, a bunch of ten spring green onions tied up with a few sprigs of
parsley, one bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, ten spoonfuls of brown sauce
(No. 1), and two of consommé; you have boiled half a pound of lean
bacon, which cut into neat square pieces the size of small walnuts, put
them in the stewpan with the peas and simmer altogether ten minutes,
take out the bunch of herbs, place your ducklings in a flat stewpan,
pour the peas over and place them in your bain marie for half an hour
before serving, then dress your ducklings on a dish, pour the peas over
and serve.
No. 598. _Ducklings au jus d’orange._
Truss and roast two ducklings as above, and serve on a dish with a sauce
au jus d’orange (No. 17) round them. Ducklings aux olives and ducklings
à la Chartre are dressed the same as above, but they are given in full
in the Removes, No. 539.
No. 599. _Faisans à la Fontainebleau._
Procure two young pheasants, pluck, draw, and truss them with their legs
turned inside, lard the best part of the breast in a square, lay some
thin slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a flat stewpan, put your
pheasants upon it breasts upwards; have ready blanched twelve fine
cabbage lettuces, take off the outside leaves and place them in the
stewpan with the pheasants, put in also two large onions with three
cloves stuck in each, and a bunch of parsley with two bayleaves, pour in
sufficient white stock to come up to the larded part of the birds, lay
eight pork sausages on the top of the lettuces, cover the whole with a
sheet of buttered paper, cover the stewpan and stew gently for an hour,
glaze and salamander the breasts of the birds, take the lettuces and
sausages carefully out and lay them on a clean cloth to extract the
grease, then lay two pieces of lettuce in the centre of your dish, just
large enough to dress the birds upon, place one upon each piece, and
with the remainder make a flat border near the edge of the dish, cut
the sausages into three pieces and dress them upon the border of
lettuce, pass the stock from the stewpan through a sieve into another
stewpan, set it to boil, skim off all the fat, add a pint and a half of
brown sauce (No. 1), reduce it to a nice demi-glace, add half a
teaspoonful of sugar, sauce over the birds and serve.
The cabbage lettuces must be rather highly seasoned when put in the pan
to stew.
No. 600. _Faisans à la purée de Gibier._
Truss, lard, and braise two pheasants in the same manner as in the last,
omitting the lettuces and sausages; when done, have ready prepared two
thick pieces of toast, which cover with a stuffing made from the livers
of the birds, as directed for faisans à l’amiral (see Removes, No. 544);
put them in a sauté-pan in the oven twenty minutes, shape them
tastefully, place them in your dish, and dress the birds upon them; have
ready prepared the following sauce: roast a grouse, partridge, or any
bird you have, or the remains of some game left from another dinner,
pick off all the flesh, which pound well in a mortar, put two
teaspoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a small piece of
butter, pass them a minute or two over the fire, then add the pounded
game with a quart of the demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), and a gill of
stock. Boil altogether ten minutes, rub it through a tammie, put it into
another stewpan, season with a little pepper, salt, and half a
teaspoonful of sugar; if too thick, add a little broth, warm it, but do
not let it boil, sauce round the birds, glaze the larded part, and
serve.
No. 601. _Faisans truffés à la Piémontaise._
Proceed as directed in the Removes, using only two small pheasants or
one large one.
No. 602. _Faisans à l’Amiral._
Proceed as directed for the remove, but one large pheasant will be quite
sufficient, diminish the quantity of garniture and sauce in proportion.
No. 603. _Grouse._
Two small grouse will be quite sufficient for a flanc; they are dressed
in any of the ways as described for pheasants, but though dressed in the
same manner, they might be served in a large dinner, where pheasants
were dressed the same, as the flavour of the two would be very
different, the grouse being so much wilder would give a different
flavour to the garniture and sauces. For grouse à la Rob Roy (see
Removes, No 548).
No. 604. _Chartreuse de Perdreaux._
Truss two nice partridges with the legs turned inside, stick about ten
small pieces of fat bacon two inches in length and the size of a quill
through the breasts lengthwise, then cut two nice savoy cabbages in
quarters, and boil five minutes, throw them into plenty of cold water;
when cold lay them on a sieve, squeeze quite dry with a cloth, season
well with pepper and salt, cut out the stalk, and put them into a
stewpan, with two onions, three cloves, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and
bay-leaves, one carrot, and three quarters of a pound of streaky bacon;
cover with a quart of white stock, and let stew an hour or more, till
the stock has reduced to a thin glaze; take it off the fire, roast your
partridges, take out the skewers and string, bury them in the stewed
cabbage whilst hot, and let them remain till wanted; then butter a large
plain oval mould, paper it, and again butter the paper; have ready
peeled sixty small button onions, which stew in a little white stock
and sugar till tender, cut about a hundred pieces of carrots, half an
inch in length, and the thickness of a large quill; stew them in the
same manner as the onions, have also cut of the same size the same
quantity of turnips (do not stew them too much or they would be
useless), place a row of onions round the bottom of the mould, then
above them a row of carrots, slantwise, but one touching the other, then
a row of the turnips, then carrots, proceeding in like manner till you
reach the top; drain the cabbage, and squeeze it till it is somewhat
firm, put some of it at the bottom of the mould an inch in thickness,
and line the sides not quite so thick, put the partridges in the centre
with slices of the bacon, finish filling up with the cabbage, place in a
stewpan of water over the fire to get hot, but do not let the water get
into it; when ready to serve turn out on your dish, and take the paper
carefully from it; have ready the following sauce: put the stock from
the vegetables and a little of the stock from the cabbage into a
stewpan, add a quart of brown sauce (No. 1), boil to the consistence of
demi-glace, add a little sugar, sauce carefully all over, and serve.
No. 605. _Chartreuse de Perdreaux à l’Impérial._
Prepare the chartreuse just as above, and when turned out have thirty
small quenelles de volaille (No. 120), made in a dessert-spoon; make
very carefully a border of mashed potatoes on the top of it about half
an inch from the rim, upon which dress the quenelles in the form of a
crown, place a fine larded sweetbread dressed (No. 674) in the centre,
through which run an atelette of vegetables, sauce as in the last
article, and serve; the cabbage, if possible, requires to be drier than
in the last.
No. 606. _Chartreuse de Perdreaux à la Moderne._
Prepare a chartreuse as before, then have twenty young carrots turned in
the shape of pears, but not too small, put them in a stewpan with a
little sugar and white stock, and boil till tender; turn out the
chartreuse on your dish, make a thin border of mashed potatoes on the
top about half an inch from the rim, cut off a piece from the thick part
of each carrot, and stand them upright upon the potatoes, fill the
centre with a pint of fresh boiled green peas dressed in pyramid, upon
the top place a small white cauliflower, nicely boiled, sauce as before,
and serve; this makes a very pretty dish.
In case you could not procure a mould as required, you could turn your
vegetables, and dress as the carrots above; lay the cabbage, bacon, and
partridges in the centre of your dish, dress the vegetables on mashed
potatoes tastefully around, finish on the top in either of the two last
ways, sauce the same, and serve; although not so handsome it takes less
time, and the exercise of a little taste on the part of the cook will
render it a very pretty dish.
No. 607. _Perdreaux à la Mecklenbourg._
Take three large young partridges, draw, and leave the skin upon the
neck as long as possible, put half a pound of the forcemeat of game (No.
123) in a basin, add two finely-chopped fresh French plums, two ounces
of chopped tongue or ham (cooked) some chopped parsley, two yolks of
eggs, a little cream, and a little grated nutmeg, mix all together, and
stuff the breasts of your birds with it, tie them up in thin slices of
bacon, and in two or three sheets of oiled paper, put them into a
stewpan with half a pint of bucellas wine, a pint of good stock, two
large onions, an apple, and a good bunch of parsley; place the stewpan
on the fire, and when it begins to boil place it in a moderate oven for
three quarters of an hour, take the birds out of the papers, take off
the bacon and place them on your dish, keep hot, and prepare the
following sauce: pass the stock from the stewpan through a fine cloth
into another stewpan, skim off all the fat and reduce it to half, mix a
dessertspoonful of arrowroot with a glass of cold stock, put it into the
stewpan, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37); boil till forming
a demi-glace, put a piece of toast beneath each bird, sauce over and
serve; but the last thing before serving add half a spoonful of red
currant jelly to the sauce, which season a little high.
No. 608. _Perdreaux à la purée de gibier._
Proceed exactly as for the faisan à la purée de gibier (No. 600), the
only difference being that the partridges will not require so long to
braise as the pheasants.
No. 609. _Perdreaux truffés à la Périgord._
Draw three partridges carefully, then prepare a stuffing of truffle as
directed for poulardes truffés à la Périgord (No. 524), stuff the inside
and breasts well, and leave them a week to take the flavour of the
truffles; when ready to roast pass a thin flat iron skewer through them,
passing it through the pinions and thighs, tie them in oiled paper, fix
the skewer to the spit and roast them before a good fire for half an
hour, letting them get a little colour through the paper; in taking them
off the skewer be careful not to break the breast, or they would look
unsightly; dress them on a dish and sauce as for the poulardes; serve
very hot.
No. 610. _Leveraut sauce poivrade._
A young leveret may be occasionally served for a flanc; truss it as for
roasting, and lard the fillets very fine, roast it nicely, keeping it
rather underdone, dress it on your dish, and serve with a sauce poivrade
(No. 32) round it.
No. 611. _Levraut au jus de groseilles._
Truss and lard a young leveret as above, then prepare a marinade as for
filet de bœuf à la Bohémienne (No. 426), put in the leveret for three
days; when ready dry it in a cloth and roast before a sharp fire, keep
it moist, serve with a demi-glace (No. 9), in which you have put two
spoonfuls of currant jelly, a little cayenne pepper, and two dozen of
stoned olives.
No. 612. _Lapereaux à la Tavernière._
Tame and even wild rabbits are extremely useful in cooking, though very
little used for flancs; they may be served with propriety in the ways I
have here described, particularly in the country, where they are so
plentiful, and your resources frequently so limited.
Skin and truss two young rabbits as for roasting, then put two ounces of
butter in a flat stewpan, (large enough to contain the rabbits,) cut
half a pound of mild lean ham into large dice, put them into the
stewpan, with the butter, and fry them gently ten minutes, then put in
the rabbits, put the cover over the stewpan and place it over a slow
fire, turn them round now and then until they take a light-brown colour,
add fifty button onions, which also colour, take out the rabbits, add
two ounces of flour to the ingredients in the stewpan (mix well) and a
quart of white stock; place the stewpan over the fire, keep it stirred
until boiling, put back the rabbits, with a good bunch of parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf, and four cloves; let it simmer, skim off the fat, which
will rise to the top, take out the rabbits, you have previously taken
out the onions with a spoon and deposited them in a clean stewpan, with
the pieces of ham; reduce the sauce to the thickness required, pass it
through a tammie into the stewpan containing the onions and ham, add
twenty heads of mushrooms, dress your rabbits on a dish slantingly, the
heads pointing different ways, sauce over and serve. Finish the sauce
with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream.
No. 613. _Lapereaux à la Jardinière._
Procure two young rabbits and proceed as in the last, but at the time
you add the onions also add the same quantity of pieces of carrot and
turnip cut with a scoop of the same size as the onions, skim well, and
when done take them out, put them as before in a clean stewpan, take up
the rabbits, pass the sauce through a tammie upon them, add half a
teaspoonful of sugar and a few heads of asparagus or peas, make it quite
hot; sauce over the rabbits and serve.
No. 614. _Lapereaux aux petits pois._
Dress the rabbits as directed for lapereaux à la tavernière, but putting
only half the quantity of onions; when you take out the rabbits add a
quart of fresh boiled young green peas, (you do not take out the onions
as previously,) season with a little sugar and salt, dress the rabbits
on a dish, and sauce over; the sauce requires to be rather thick, but
yet not too thick; if too thin it would have a bad appearance, and if
too thick it would be unpleasant eating.
No. 615. _Lapereaux à la Villageoise._
Skin and truss two young rabbits, make a stuffing of the livers as
directed in faisan à la corsaire (No. 544); stuff the rabbits and roast
them, baste them well whilst roasting by throwing flour over them and
moistening with butter, and when roasted have ready the following sauce:
put two teaspoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a small
piece of butter, pass them for five minutes over a slow fire, then add
half a pint of melted butter (No. 71), keep it stirred over the fire,
and when beginning to boil add two ounces of fresh butter, a little
salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon, shake the stewpan over the fire
till the butter is melted; dress your rabbits upon a dish, sauce over
and serve.
No. 616. _Lapereaux à la Bourgmestre._
Truss and stuff two very fine young rabbits as above, lard the fillets
and roast a nice colour; you have previously filleted three young
rabbits, take off the skin of the fillets and lard them with very fine
bacon, then put some thin slices of bacon and onions cut in slices in a
sauté-pan, put your fillets upon them, cover with white stock, lay a
sheet of buttered paper over and put them in the oven for half an hour,
give your fillets a good colour, dress your rabbits in the centre, the
fillets around upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce
Soubise (No. 47) poured round.
No. 617. _Lapereaux à l’Anglaise._
Truss two young rabbits as usual, and put them in a stewpan, with a
quart of water and a pint of milk, stew them half an hour or till
tender, place them on a dish and serve them up covered with onion sauce
(No. 47).
No. 618. _Pâté chaud d’Agneau._
Procure an oval raised-pie mould, about four inches in height, five in
breadth, and nine in length; then make the following paste: put two
pounds of flour on your pastry slab, make a hole in the middle, put a
quarter of a pound of chopped suet and a quarter of a pound of butter in
a stewpan, with half a pint of water, let it boil one minute, pour it
into the flour, mix with a spoon until cool enough to work with the
hands, work it smooth, and when nearly cold roll out a sheet three
quarters of an inch in thickness, with which line the mould, pressing
the paste equally at all parts; you have cut twelve or more lambs’
cutlets, leave them thick and take away the bones, lay the cutlets in
the pie alternately with slices of potatoes about a quarter of an inch
in thickness until it is quite full, season highly as you proceed with
pepper, salt, chopped onions, and chopped parsley, make a cover with the
trimmings of the paste, ornament it to fancy, work up the edges with the
fingers, and crimp it nicely with the paste-nippers, let it stand two
hours to get dry, egg the top and bake it three hours in a moderate
oven; when done cut out the lid, take as much fat from the top as
possible, put half a pint of good stock in a stewpan, with a pint of
white sauce (No. 7), and a small piece of glaze, reduce till rather
thick, add a little sugar, pour in the sauce, take out of the mould, put
on the cover and serve very hot; if care be taken in baking the crust
will be a bright yellow colour.
No. 619. _Pâté chaud de Mouton à l’Irlandaise._
Line a mould with paste as in the last, fill it as there described,
using mutton cutlets instead of lamb, and more onions in the seasoning,
give it half an hour longer to bake, and use brown instead of white
sauce to fill it up; serve in the same manner as the last.
No. 620. _Pâté chaud d’Escalopes de filet de Bœuf._
Line a mould with the paste as before, have twenty or more pieces of
fillet of beef, in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, season them
on a dish with pepper, salt, and onions, dip each piece in flour, and
grate a little nutmeg over them, have also ready twenty thin slices of
lean ham, but the same size as the pieces of beef, and twenty slices of
potatoes one inch in thickness, put a layer of beef at the bottom of the
pie, then a layer of the ham, then potatoes, proceeding in like manner
till it is full, cover and bake as before; when ready to serve pour in a
brown sauce as in the last.
No. 621. _Pâté chaud d’Escalopes de Veau et de ris de Veau._
Line a mould with paste as before, take a piece of veal from the leg,
from which cut twenty-four escalopes the thickness of three
five-shilling-pieces, but rather larger, have also two large throat
sweetbreads, boil them in water a quarter of an hour, and cut them into
escalopes the same size as the veal, cut also thirty very thin escalopes
of streaky bacon the same size, season the whole very highly with
pepper, salt, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and chopped eschalots, proceed to
fill the pie, first lay in a piece of veal, then bacon, then sweetbread,
bacon and veal again, proceeding in like manner till full, cover and
bake three hours, when done sauce as for the pâté d’agneau and serve.
You may place a couple of bay-leaves upon the top of each pie previous
to covering, it is an improvement to all, especially lamb or veal.
No. 622. _Pâté chaud de Volaille._
Line a mould with paste as before, then cut up two chickens into neat
pieces, taking off the wings with good fillets, leaving sufficient on
the breast, which divide in two pieces, bone the legs, and divide the
backs into two, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, when it
melts add your pieces of chicken, season with a little pepper, salt, and
chopped eschalots, add two bay-leaves and place the stewpan twenty
minutes over a very slow fire, then pour off the butter and add a pint
of white sauce (No. 7), stew ten minutes and pour them on a dish till
cold, fill up the pie, placing the pieces of the back at the bottom,
then the legs, then breast, finishing at the tops with the wings, have
also twenty pieces of cooked ham about the size of five-shilling-pieces,
which intersperse with the chicken, put a cover on and bake one hour and
a half in a very warm oven, when done cut off the cover and take off as
much of the fat as possible, put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a
stewpan, with four spoonfuls of white stock, when it boils add about
forty heads of mushrooms and half a teaspoonful of sugar, boil ten
minutes, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of
cream, pour the sauce into the pie, put on the cover and serve.
No. 623. _Pâté chaud de Pigeonneaux._
Line a mould with paste as before, then take six young pigeons trussed
with their legs inside, cut each pigeon in halves lengthwise, pass them
in butter the same as the chickens, proceeding in the same manner, but
using brown instead of white sauce, put them on a dish to cool, have the
yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs (which cut in halves), and twelve slices
of boiled streaky bacon, lay a slice of bacon and half a pigeon
alternately in the pie, interspersing the hard-boiled yolks here and
there, when filled cover and bake two hours in a moderate oven, when
done take off the cover and as much fat as possible, then put a pint of
brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan, with half a pint of good stock and an
ounce of glaze, reduce to two thirds, pour into the pie which cover and
serve as before.
Pâtés chauds may be made of all kinds of birds as pheasants, grouse,
partridges, woodcocks, snipes, or larks, by following either of the two
last recipes, but they are usually served as entrées, where I intend
placing them.
No. 624. _Pâté chaud de Lapereau._
Line a mould with paste as before, then procure two or three young
rabbits, according to the size, which cut into neat pieces, and place in
a stewpan of boiling water for one minute, take them out, pass in
butter, and proceed precisely as for pâté chaud de volaille (No. 622).
No. 625. _Vol-au-vent._
Vol-au-vents are usually served for entrées, but by cutting one larger
and of an oval shape they may be served for flancs with any of the
garnitures as directed in the entrées.
No. 626. _Casserole de Riz._
Wash in several waters two pounds of the best Carolina rice; when very
clean put it into a stewpan, with two quarts of water, half a pound of
butter, two large onions, and half an ounce of salt, set on a fire, and
when boiling place it to simmer very gently on a slow fire for one hour;
when done it must appear quite dry and tender to the finger, take out
the onions and mix the rice well with a wooden spoon; if sufficiently
done it will clog together, then put it in a mortar and pound it well
till it forms but one mass, butter a baking-sheet, lay the rice upon it
and you will be able to form it into any shape you please, but for
flancs form it of an oval shape in imitation of a raised pie, (should
the rice stick to your fingers dip them in cold water,) when of a proper
shape and well elevated cut a piece of carrot or turnip in the form of a
wedge, with which make impressions all round according to fancy, melt
some butter, and with a paste-brush rub it all over the rice, put it in
a very hot oven and bake it a light yellow colour; if well made it will
retain its shape, and any design you may have impressed upon it; when
well done make an incision with your knife half an inch from the edge
all round, and empty it to within half an inch from the bottom; it is
then ready to serve with any of the ingredients as directed in the
following.
No. 627. _Casserole de Riz aux queues d’Agneau._
Procure six house lambs’ tails, blanch them ten minutes in boiling
water, then cut them in pieces an inch long; put a quarter of a pound of
chopped suet in a stewpan, with two onions, a carrot cut up small, one
turnip, three bay-leaves, six cloves, and a little thyme; pass the whole
upon a slow fire ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of flour (mix
well), two quarts of white stock, and a little salt; then add the tails,
let simmer gently forty minutes or more till tender, take them out and
drain upon a clean cloth, put into another stewpan a quart of white
sauce and half a pint of white stock, reduce till rather thick, then add
the tails, with twenty heads of mushrooms, a little chopped parsley,
pepper, and salt, add the liaison from two yolks of eggs and a gill of
cream; shake it over the fire, but do not let it boil, finish with a
little lemon-juice, pour it in the casserole and serve.
No. 628. _Casserole de Riz au queues de Veau._
Scald and cut four calves’ tails into pieces an inch long, dress them
precisely as the lambs’ tails in the previous article, only allowing
them longer to stew, terminate and serve as in the last.
No. 629. _Casserole de Riz aux pieds d’Agneau._
Procure twelve lambs’ feet, throw them into boiling water for two
minutes, extract the long bone by holding the feet in a cloth and moving
the bone gently till it leaves the socket; when they are all done
proceed as for the lambs’ tails (No. 627), boiling them rather longer,
sauce and serve precisely the same.
No. 630. _Casserole de Riz au pieds de mouton._
Procure ten small sheeps’ feet, dress them precisely as the lambs’ feet,
but of course they will take more time; when tender divide each foot in
two lengthwise, sauce and serve as directed for queues d’agneau (No.
627). Sheeps’ feet, commonly called sheeps’ trotters, are seldom used in
this country to any real advantage, although in Paris they have made the
fortunes of more than one restaurateur; one house was so famed for them,
that its proprietor named it Restaurant du Pied de Mouton. About sixteen
years ago epicures were seen from all parts of Paris trotting after a
dinner of trotters, until the proprietor saved an immense fortune; but
they are even now much thought of in Paris, both for their lightness and
delicacy, and are always to be had in any of the first houses.
For my part I really think they deserve a better fate than that of being
trotted about from bar to bar in palaces certainly containing the
choicest spirits, and to be exposed on a cloth (semi-blanche) in a
basket, and from thence to the honest, but not very delicate fingers of
a London coalheaver or dustman; I must, however, observe that it is not
my desire to deprive them of their luxury, but a mere wish to find a
resting-place for the unfortunate trotters upon the tables of the
affluent in this country, where they would be eaten and admired for
their delicacy.
No. 631. _Casserole de Riz à la Néapolitaine._
Have ready a casserole of rice as directed, then boil half a pound of
riband macaroni in water ten minutes, strain it and put it in a stewpan,
cut up a braised fowl, (or the remains of some poultry from a previous
dinner,) in as large pieces as possible, which put in the stewpan, with
the macaroni and a quarter of a pound of lean ham, cover with a pint of
very strong beef gravy; let all boil together a few minutes, then add a
quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, a tablespoonful of tomata
sauce (No. 37), and a little cayenne pepper, pour it in the casserole,
egg and bread-crumb the top, put it in the oven twenty minutes and
serve.
No. 632. _Casserole de Riz Polonaise à la Koroski._
Prepare a casserole of rice as before, then mince the flesh of a fowl
(or the remains of several) with two ounces of lean cooked ham and a few
mushrooms, or truffles; put two spoonfuls of chopped onions in a
stewpan, with two pats of butter; stir them over the fire two minutes,
add half a spoonful of flour, (mix well) and a quart of white sauce (No.
7); boil altogether a short time, then add the mince, season with a
little pepper and salt, finish with three tablespoonfuls of cream, and
pour it in your casserole; you have previously boiled eight eggs in
water five minutes, then put them in cold water, peel off the shells,
warm them again in broth, and dress them on the mince at equal
distances, the ends pointing to the centre; have also eight pieces of
cooked tongue cut in the shape of cockscombs, warm them and place a
piece upright between each egg; have ready a nice larded sweetbread,
nicely cooked, which place in the centre, glaze the sweetbread and
tongue, and pour a little white sauce over the eggs; serve very hot.
No. 633. _Casserole de Riz à la Royale._
Prepare a casserole of rice, mince a fowl, with ham and truffles, and
proceed as in the last; when done fill your casserole; have ready
twelve plovers’ eggs, peel off the shells, warm them in broth, and place
them round on the mince points upwards at equal distances, apart; have
previously boiled some nice asparagus, cut off the heads about an inch
and a half in length, and stand a bunch of five or six heads between
each plover’s egg, making them stand a little above the eggs; have also
twelve very fine cockscombs ready cooked (see No. 128), which dress in
the middle, put fifteen tablespoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan, and
when boiling add two pats of butter and a little lemon-juice, finish
with a liaison of one yolk of egg, pour over the cockscombs and serve.
No. 634. _Casserole de Riz à la Chevalière._
Prepare a casserole as before, prepare two chickens as directed in the
entrée à la chevalière (No. 818); fill your casserole, by placing the
pieces of back at the bottom, then the legs and pinions, pour the sauce
and garniture over, dress the four larded fillets to meet in a point,
and finish by placing a small white head of cauliflower, nicely boiled,
on the top, in the centre of the fillets, and serve.
When you serve a dinner where four entrées and two flancs are required,
it is the object of the host to see his table well garnished; and no
hors-d’œuvres being served, you may make flancs of them, although, I
must repeat, flancs ought to be composed of one solid piece, or, at any
rate, not more than two or three pieces, but circumstances may require a
deviation from this rule; I have therefore given a list of those
hors-d’œuvres which may be used for flancs, by adding to the number
required for a dish, and making them rather larger; the croustades de
beurre and timbales must be dressed in a circle on a border of mashed
potatoes, and the petits vol-au-vents in pyramid on a napkin.
I will here give but the list; for directions you must refer to the
chapter devoted to Hors-d’œuvres
Croustade de beurre aux huîtres.
Do. aux laitances de maquereaux.
Do. purée de volaille.
Do. purée de gibier.
Petits timbales aux œufs de pluviers.
Do. de volaille aux truffes.
Do. purée de riz de veau.
Do. quenelles de gibier.
Petits vol-au-vents aux huîtres.
Do. aux filets de soles.
Do. de homard.
Do. of crab.
ENTRÉES.
Entrées require to be small and elegant, as well as tasty; those which
can be dressed in a crown like cotelettes, quenelles, or fillets of any
description, are preferable, and more graceful, the garniture being
placed in the centre; they are also more likely to be partaken of on
account of the facility of serving, they being already carved, and much
better than large pieces, such as whole fowls, vol-au-vents, or pâtés
chauds; where you require flancs, by all means reserve them for that
purpose; but in a dinner of four entrées only, you require to send two
entrées light, and two (what I term) solid, for the sake of variety, for
if you had four light entrées upon the table without flancs, there would
not appear sufficient dinner for the assembled guests, but the solid
entrées may be made to look exceedingly light if carried to a height
corresponding to their breadth; in dishing your entrées always allow an
inch between the entrée and the rim of the dish, or if the dishes are
large leave more space; the round entrée dishes are the most preferable,
and should not be more than an inch and a half, or less than an inch in
depth.
No. 635. _Of Beef for Entrées._
Of all kinds of butchers’ meat, beef, though so useful in cooking,
presents the least variation for entrées, the fillet being the only part
that can be used to any advantage.
No. 636. _Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf à la Reform._
Take out the fillet from beneath a rump of beef, take off all the fat,
and cut it into slices (lengthwise) half an inch in thickness, beat
them well with the cutlet-bat, which previously dip in water, then cut
them into ten or twelve escalopes, the size and shape of fillets of
chickens, lay each piece upon the table, season with pepper, salt, and a
little chopped eschalots, cut two very thin slices of fat bacon to each
escalope of beef, trim the bacon to the same size and shape, egg over
the escalopes of beef, and stick a piece of the bacon upon each side of
them, then egg all over and throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs mixed
with chopped lean cooked ham; take them out, beat lightly with your
knife, put a little oil in a sauté-pan, place it over a moderate fire,
when quite hot put in your escalopes, fry a nice colour, and dress in
crown upon a thin border of mashed potatoes, glaze nicely; sauce over
with a sauce reforme (No. 35), and serve.
No. 637. _Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf à la Gotha._
Cut twelve escalopes of beef as described in the last, scrape a quarter
of a pound of fat bacon, melt it in a stewpan, and pass it through a
sieve into a well-tinned sauté-pan, then lay in your escalopes, season
them with a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, and a little pepper and
salt, pass them over the fire five minutes, and leave them to get cold
in the sauté-pan; you have procured half a pound of pork sausage-meat,
which place in a mortar, add to it three tablespoonfuls of white sauce
(No. 7), a little chopped parsley, also a little thyme, and one
bay-leaf, chopped very fine, pound all well together and mix it with one
egg; you have also procured a pig’s caul, cut it in twelve square
pieces, each the size of a small hand, lay a little of the sausage-meat
in the centre a quarter of an inch in thickness, upon which lay one of
the escalopes, with the bacon and seasoning which is attached, cover
with a little more of the sausage-meat and wrap them up in the caul,
keeping the same shape as the pieces of beef and as flat as you can,
proceed in like manner till they are all finished; put them in a cool
place ten minutes, before serving put them over a good fire upon a
gridiron, broil them a nice colour, dress them in a crown, fill the
centre with some very white stewed choucroute (No. 116), and serve very
hot.
No. 638. _Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf à la Portugaise._
Prepare twelve escalopes of beef as before, and cook them precisely as
in the last; have ready prepared two Portugal onions, which peel and
blanch ten minutes in boiling water, then put them into a stewpan just
large enough to contain them, cover with some white veal stock, add a
bunch of parsley, and stew for an hour or more till quite tender, the
smallest one will of course be the first done, take it off and keep it
hot till the second one is done, then place the largest upon a piece of
mashed potatoes in the centre of your dish, dress the escalopes around
upon a small border of mashed potatoes, the points inclining inwards;
dress the smaller onion upon the larger, and run a silver attelet
through them both; pass the stock the onions were stewed in through a
tammie into another stewpan, reduce it to a demi-glace, skim it well,
add four tablespoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), boil altogether a
minute, sauce over and serve.
No. 639. _Escalopes de Filets de Bœuf à la Nemours._
Cut twenty-four escalopes of beef as before, but not half so thick, put
four tablespoonfuls of forcemeat (No. 120) in a basin with two spoonfuls
of chopped lean ham and the yolk of an egg, mix well together, then lay
twelve of the escalopes of beef upon the table, put a little of the
forcemeat on each, spread it all over with a knife, lay a very thin
slice of cooked ham, fat and lean, upon each, spread a little more of
the forcemeat over, then lay one of the other twelve escalopes upon
each, season with a little pepper and salt; egg over with a paste-brush,
and throw them into bread-crumbs and chopped parsley mixed, take them
out, beat lightly with your knife, and fry carefully in a sauté-pan with
lard, dress them in a crown, glaze and have ready the following sauce:
put an ounce of glaze in a sauté-pan, with two spoonfuls of broth and
two of white sauce; when boiling, add half an ounce of very fresh
butter, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little lemon-juice (do not
let it boil after you have put in the butter), sauce over and serve.
No. 640. _Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf à l’Ostende._
Cut twenty escalopes as in the last article, then blanch and beard two
or three dozen of Ostend or small oysters, and cut them up in small
dice, then put half a teaspoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan with a
small piece of butter, pass them over the fire three minutes, add half a
tablespoonful of flour (mix well), four tablespoonfuls of the juice of
the oysters, and four of white sauce, boil altogether five minutes,
keeping it stirred, then add the oysters with a little essence of
anchovies and cayenne pepper; place it again on the fire, and just as it
begins to boil add the yolk of an egg, stir it well in and set it on a
dish to cool, then lay ten of the escalopes upon the table, and spread a
little of the above upon each, cover the ten other escalopes over them,
season with a little pepper and salt, egg, bread-crumb, and fry as in
the last; glaze, dress them in crown, and have ready the following
sauce: put half an ounce of glaze in a stewpan with six tablespoonfuls
of good stock and four of brown sauce, place it on the fire, and when it
boils add half an ounce of anchovy butter, pour the sauce in the dish
and serve.
No. 641. _Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf piqué à la Chasseur._
Cut ten escalopes as described for à la reform, but rather thicker, lard
each piece with bacon one inch long and narrow in proportion, but do not
let the bacon show far out of the beef, then prepare two quarts of
marinade (see filet de bœuf à la Bohémienne, No. 426); lay your
escalopes in a dish, and strain the marinade over, let them remain about
twenty-four hours, take them out and lay them on a cloth, cover the
bottom of the sauté-pan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay the escalopes
over, add a little of the liquor, but not sufficient to cover them;
place a sheet of buttered paper over the sauté-pan and put them in a
slow oven for half an hour or more, moisten them now and then with their
stock, and when nearly done glaze and give them a little colour with the
salamander, take them out, drain on a cloth, and dress in crown upon a
border of mashed potatoes; have ready the following sauce: pass the
stock they were cooked in through a tammie into a stewpan, boil it at
the corner of the stove, skim off all the grease, add half a pint of
brown sauce, and reduce it till it forms a good demi-glaze, then add a
spoonful of currant jelly and a pat of butter, mix it quickly and sauce
over, season a little more if required.
No. 642. _Other Entrées of Fillets of Beef._
Take the best part of a fillet of beef, that is, about the middle, cut
eighteen slices three quarters of inch in thickness, and beat them with
your small chopper to the thickness of half an inch; cut each slice into
an oval piece, cut also six oval pieces of suet from the kidney, about
half the size, and not so thick as the fillet, dip the pieces of fillet
in flour, previously seasoning them with pepper and salt; fry in
clarified butter in a sauté-pan over a sharp fire, egg and bread-crumb
the pieces of fat, fry them after the pieces of fillet, dress them
alternately with the fillets in a crown, and serve with any of the
following sauces:
Sauce piquante (No. 27),
Do. à l’Italienne (No. 30),
Do. tomate (No. 37),
Do. poivrade (No. 32),
Do. à la Hollandaise (No. 66),
or any of the sauces described for fillets of beef in the Removes, but
of course preparing a smaller quantity; you can also convert the remains
of a fillet of beef left from a remove into an entrée, by cutting it
into slices and trimming it into oval pieces, not cutting the larded
part; lay the pieces in a sauté-pan and just cover them with a good
strong gravy, place a sheet of paper over, and put them in a moderate
oven till they are quite hot through, take them out and serve with any
of the sauces mentioned for fillets of beef in the Removes.
No. 643. _Aiguillette de Langue de Bœuf en Papillote._
Boil a salt ox-tongue three hours, and when cold cut ten pieces from the
best part, of the shape of a fillet of fowl, and half an inch in
thickness, then put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in a sauté-pan
with one of oil, place the pan over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred
with a wooden spoon; when the onions become tender (but not to change
colour) pour off all the oil, add a spoonful of chopped mushrooms, one
of chopped parsley, and a pint of white sauce (No. 7), moisten with a
little white stock, and reduce it till it becomes very thick, then add
the pieces of tongue, toss over in the sauce, and leave them to get
cold; have cut ten pieces of white paper in the shape of hearts, and
large enough to fold a piece of the tongue in each, spread a little of
the cold sauce upon the paper, then a slice of the tongue, which cover
with more of the sauce, twist up the papers and broil them gradually ten
minutes, serve them in the papers dressed in a crown, with a sauce
Italienne (No. 30) under them; the tongues of any other animals, whether
pickled or not, may be served in this manner, but of course the sauce
must be more highly seasoned for the fresh tongue than for the pickled
one.
No. 644. _Turban de Langue de Bœuf à l’Ecarlate._
Boil two tongues separately, one pickled very red, and the other not
pickled; cut six pieces from the thick part of each, about the size and
shape of fillets of fowl, place the twelve pieces in a sauté-pan with an
ounce of glaze and four tablespoonfuls of consommé (No. 134), place over
the fire, and let it remain till the pieces are quite hot, but do not
let it boil; dress them alternately on a border of mashed potatoes in
crown, and prepare a sauce thus: place the sauté-pan again on the fire,
and add ten tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), with four of
consommé and a little sugar, boil a few minutes, pour over the tongue,
glaze the red pieces, and serve.
No. 645. _Turban de Langue de Bœuf à la Jardinière._
Proceed with the tongues precisely as in the last, and prepare the
following sauce: cut about fifty scoops of carrots and fifty of turnips
(with an iron scoop) a little larger than a pea, peel also forty very
small onions, put them altogether in a stewpan with an ounce of butter
and a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar, pass them for ten minutes
over a sharp fire, tossing them over now and then; add half a pint of
good white stock, let them stew till tender and the broth is reduced to
glaze, then turn them into the sauté-pan with the stock you warmed the
tongue in, stir all round together, dress the vegetables in the centre,
pour the glaze over the tongue, and serve; if the carrots are old they
require to be stewed separately, as they take so much longer than the
turnip or onion.
No. 646. _Turban de Langue de Bœuf, sauce piquante._
Prepare twelve pieces of tongue as before, either pickled or fresh,
dress them round upon your dish, put a pint of sauce piquante (No. 27)
in the sauté-pan with a little sugar, boil altogether a minute, sauce
over, and serve immediately; you can also serve dressed spinach or
endive (Nos. 106 and 119) with it; if you serve an entrée of pickled
tongue, it should be placed near an entrée of fowl or veal, or near to a
remove of the same description, with which they eat much better, and for
entrées of fresh tongue, season the sauces rather high.
No. 647. _Queues de Bœuf aux navets au brun._
A few very nice entrées may be made of ox-tails; they certainly do not
make handsome ones, but their delicate flavour supplies their deficiency
in appearance.
For one entrée take two fine tails, cut them at the joints into pieces,
or saw them into pieces an inch thick, which last way in my opinion is
best, the pieces not being so clumsy; when cut put them into a stewpan,
with three large onions, one carrot, one turnip, six cloves, a blade of
mace, four bay-leaves, four sprigs of thyme, and a tablespoonful of
salt; cover them with second stock or water, place the stewpan over the
fire, and let it boil at the corner till the pieces are tender, and
leave the bone easily; when done lay them on a cloth to drain, put a
little mashed potatoes upon the bottom of your dish, build up the pieces
pyramidically, and have ready the following sauce: scoop fifty pieces of
turnips the size of small marbles, put them in a stewpan with half a
tablespoonful of powdered sugar and half an ounce of butter, pass them
ten minutes over a sharp fire, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and a
few tablespoonfuls of broth or brown gravy (No. 135), with a bunch of
parsley and a bay-leaf, let them simmer at the corner of the stove until
the turnips are tender, take them out with a colander spoon and put them
into a clean stewpan, reduce and skim the sauce well, and when of a
proper thickness, pass it through a tammie over the turnips, make all
hot together, sauce over the tails, and serve.
No. 648. _Queues de Bœuf à la Jardinière._
Cook and dress the tails as before, then cut some carrots and turnips
with button onions, as directed for the tongue à la jardinière (No.
645), pass them in a stewpan, with a little butter and powdered sugar,
ten minutes over a sharp fire, add a pint of brown sauce, with a quarter
of a pint of stock, boil on the corner of the stove (skim well) until
the vegetables are tender, and the sauce attains a good consistency;
season with a little salt and sugar if required, sauce over, and serve.
No. 649. _Queues de Bœuf sauce aux cornichons._
Cook and dress the tails as before, have ready a quart of sauce au jus
d’échalotte (No. 16), but not quite so acid as there directed, reduce
till rather thick; have ready a good tablespoonful of chopped gherkins,
and when the sauce is boiling throw them in, season with a little sugar
and salt, sauce over, and serve. The sauce requires to be thick enough
to adhere to the pieces of tails.
No. 650. _Queues de Bœuf en currie._
Cook the tails as before, have ready about a quart of currie sauce (No.
46), moisten it with twenty spoonfuls of stock, stir in a stewpan over
the fire, and reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon; then
put in your ox-tails, and stand the stewpan in a bain marie till wanted,
dress them in pyramid upon your dish, add twenty mushrooms to the sauce,
which boil and skim, pour over, and serve with some boiled rice very dry
(No. 129) upon a separate dish, to be placed on the side table.
No. 651. _Queues de Bœuf à la Sicilienne._
Cook the tails as before, select ten of the best pieces, which drain
well upon a cloth, have ready prepared about half a pint of sauce
Durcelle (No. 704), let it get cold, then spread some over each piece of
tail to entirely cover it, egg and bread-crumb, and place them in a warm
oven twenty minutes, salamander a nice brown colour, dress in pyramid on
your dish, and serve with some sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) round.
No. 652. _Queues de Bœuf à la Marseillaise._
Cook and select ten of the best pieces as above, but instead of
surrounding them with a sauce Durcelle spread a purée of onions, as for
cotelettes à la Provençale (No. 701), a quarter of an inch in thickness
over them, egg and bread-crumb twice each, and just before serving fry
in very hot lard; then put a pint of brown sauce in a stewpan, with a
quarter of a pint of consommé (No. 134), and a little piece of scraped
garlic the size of a pea; reduce and skim till becoming a nice
demi-glace, dress in pyramid, and pour the sauce round.
No. 653. _To prepare and dress Palates of Beef._
Palates of beef, if properly dressed, are very delicate eating, being of
a gelatinous substance, they are much to be recommended; the reason, I
believe, they are so seldom used, is the difficulty of giving them a
graceful appearance in the dish; to obviate which, I have introduced
one or two new receipts; I never expect it will be a fashionable dish,
yet I think they are likely to bring them more in vogue.
For one entrée take four palates, put them in a large stewpan with
lukewarm water for four or five hours to disgorge, then pour off the
water, cover again with fresh water and put them on the fire till the
palates begin to get hard, take one out and put it in cold water, scrape
it with a knife, and if the skin comes off easily, take out the rest,
but if not leave them a little longer, scrape them until you have got
off all the skin, and nothing but the white, half-transparent substance
remains, when done, prepare a white stock (No. 133), in which boil them
three or four hours till very tender; try them with a knife, take them
up and lay them flat upon a dish, put a little of the stock in the dish
with them, then place another dish of the same size over them, and let
them remain till quite cold, they are then ready for use.
No. 654. _Palates de Bœuf à la Ravigote._
Having prepared four palates as in the last, cut each in three, of an
oval shape, each piece to be about the size of a fillet of fowl, then
put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a very small
piece of butter, stir a few minutes over a slow fire, add a quart of
white sauce (No. 7), and reduce it till becoming thick, keeping it
stirred, then take it off the fire, add the yolk of two eggs, stir very
quickly, and season with a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley;
then take each piece of palate singly on a fork and dip in the sauce,
when well covered lay it on a dish to get cold; when all done, and half
an hour before dinner-time, dip them into three eggs well beaten
together, then into bread-crumbs, then into the eggs and bread-crumbs
again, beat lightly with a knife, and fry them a nice colour in very
hot lard; serve with a sauce ravigote (No. 44) under, and dress them in
crown upon a border of mashed potatoes.
No. 655. _Attelets de Palates de Bœuf._
Have four palates prepared, which cut into thirty pieces with a round
cutter, the size of a shilling, dip each piece into sauce, but a little
thinner than above, and lay them on a dish to cool; cut twenty pieces of
dressed tongue of the same size, and twenty slices of large truffles,
with twenty of mushrooms, then have eight small silver skewers (or
attelets), upon which place the pieces of palates, placing either a
slice of tongue, truffle, or mushroom between each; when you have stuck
them all on the skewers, have a little of the sauce you dipped the
palates in, spread a little over the crevices between to make them look
like one, dip each attelet in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, and fry
a nice colour in hot lard; dress them three at the bottom, then three
above, the reverse of the others to form a square, and the other two
across, garnish with plenty of fried parsley, and serve very hot.
No. 656. _Palates de Bœuf à la Vivandière._
Proceed, fry, and dress them as directed for à la ravigote; serve with
the following sauce: chop two large onions very fine and put them in a
stewpan with an ounce of butter, place them over the fire, keeping
stirred till they become rather yellow, then pour off as much butter as
you can; add a glass of port wine and a piece of glaze the size of a
walnut, let simmer five minutes, add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown
sauce and six of consommé (No. 134), reduce till it adheres to the back
of the spoon, season with a little cayenne pepper and sugar, pour the
sauce in the centre and round your palates, have a good handful of fried
parsley, which place in a pyramid in the centre, and serve very hot.
No. 657. _Turban de Palate de Bœuf au gratin._
Prepare four palates of beef as before, which cut into twelve oval
pieces, have ready some forcemeat (No. 120), place a little on the
bottom of a sauté-pan in a circle (the size you require your entrée),
then cover each piece of palate with the remainder, and dress them in a
crown upon the forcemeat in the sauté-pan; egg and bread-crumb, place
them in a moderate oven for three quarters of an hour, if getting too
much colour cover some paper over; when done, detach it from the
sauté-pan with a thin long knife, and with a fish-slice remove it into
your dish, sauce over with a sauce Italienne (No. 30), and serve. Should
you have a silver dish for au gratins, it would be preferable to dress
it upon that, as it would not require moving.
No. 658. _Vol-au-vent de Palates de Bœuf._
Make a vol-au-vent as described (No. 1140), have ready prepared four
palates, which cut into pieces with a round cutter the size of
half-a-crown, put them into a stewpan with ten mushrooms, a quart of
white sauce (No. 7), and six spoonfuls of white stock; when boiling, add
a bunch of parsley, let simmer on the corner of the stove half an hour,
skim, take out the parsley if too thick, add a little more stock, throw
in a pat of butter, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, sugar, and a
little lemon-juice, finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, let it
set over the fire, but not boil, fill the vol-au-vent and serve.
It may be served also in a casserole of rice (No. 626), or flat, as a
blanquette, in an entrée-dish garnished with croutons of bread.
No. 659. _Palates de Bœuf en Papillote._
Have prepared four palates, which cut into twelve oval pieces, put two
tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a deep sauté-pan, with four of chopped
onions, stir with a wooden spoon five minutes over a sharp fire, then
pour off as much of the oil as possible, add a quart of white sauce (No.
7), a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped mushrooms,
with six of white stock, boil altogether five minutes, keeping it
stirred; add a little grated nutmeg, then put in your pieces of palates,
boil a few minutes longer, and turn the whole on a dish to get cold;
finish dressing, and serve as directed for aiguillettes de langue de
bœuf (No. 643).
No. 660. _Turban de Tête de Veau en Tortue._
Cook and prepare a calf’s head as directed in the Removes (No. 462);
only for entrees you must cut much smaller pieces, and of course you
require a much smaller quantity of sauce. I have merely repeated it here
to show that it may be served as an entrée; but great care must be taken
in boiling the head, for if not done enough it is not eatable, and if
done too much it would be impossible to dress them on your dish. Care
must also be taken in dishing up to make it look graceful, and it cannot
be served too hot.
No. 661. _Turban de Tête de Veau à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Prepare your calf’s head as in the last, and dress the pieces in crown
upon mashed potatoes, have ready the following sauce: put a pint of
white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight spoonfuls of good white
stock, boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred, add two ounces of maître
d’hôtel butter (No. 79), very highly seasoned, let it melt, but do not
let the sauce boil after the butter is in, sauce over and serve
immediately.
No. 662. _Turban de Tête de Veau à la Hollandaise._
Prepare and dish the calf’s head as before, serve with a sauce
Hollandaise (No. 66) over it.
No. 663. _Turban de Tête de Veau à la Poulette._
Prepare and dish as before, have ready the following sauce: put half a
pint of white sauce (No. 7) with a pint of white stock, thirty small
button-onions, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf,
tied together, into a stewpan, simmer at the corner of the stove nearly
an hour, skim and take out the bunch of herbs, then with a
colander-spoon take out the onions, which put in a clean stewpan, reduce
the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass through a
tammie over the onions, add twelve nice white blanched mushrooms, set
again on the fire, and when nearly boiling, add a liaison of one yolk of
egg (mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream), stir in quickly, place
over the fire another minute, keeping it stirred, but do not let it
boil, add a little lemon-juice and chopped parsley, sauce over and serve
immediately.
No. 664. _Turban de Tête de Veau à l’Indienne._
Prepare and dress the head as usual, and serve with a sauce à l’Indienne
(No. 45).
Great care should be taken in choosing Indian pickles, no sort are of
any service in cooking but the green prickly sort, when good they are
milder eating, a good flavour, and firm to the touch, but if very hot
and soft they are fit for nothing whatever.
Calf’s head may be served for entrées dressed as directed with sauce
currie (No. 46), and rice, separate, or sauce poivrade, piquante, or
tomates (Nos. 32, 27 and 37).
No. 665. _Oreilles de Veau farci._
It requires four ears to make an entrée, trim rather small and set them
in warm water to disgorge for several hours, then prepare a white stock
like for calf’s head (No. 459), put them in and stew for an hour or more
till tender, leave them to get cold in their stock, then take half a
pound of forcemeat (No. 120), to which add a teaspoonful of chopped
mushrooms; mix altogether with the yolk of an egg, take out the ears,
which dry on a cloth, fill the inside with the forcemeat but not too
full, have some eggs well beaten in a basin, dip the ears in, then throw
them into bread-crumbs, fry in lard but not too hot as the forcemeat
takes some time to cook, dress upon mashed potatoes on your dish and
serve a sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) under them.
No. 666. _Oreilles de Veau en marinade._
Cook the ears as above, but do not stuff them, cut each ear in five or
six pieces the long way, and put them in a basin with pepper, salt, two
onions in slices, a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, eight cloves,
three spoonfuls of vinegar, and two of oil; let them remain six hours or
more, then take out the pieces of ear, wipe each piece with a cloth,
have ready some batter (No. 1285), dip the pieces in separately, let
them be covered in every part, and drop them into hot lard, they will
take five minutes to fry, dress them on a dish with a sauce au jus de
tomates (No. 12) under them; garnish with fried parsley and serve. Two
ears will be sufficient for the above.
No. 667. _Langues de Veau aux champignons._
Procure four tongues, which put in warm water to disgorge, then put them
in a stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, two bay-leaves,
one blade of mace, and six cloves; cover with white broth or water, if
water add a scrag of veal, half a pound of lean ham, and a little salt;
place on the fire, and when it commences boiling skim it and place it at
the corner of the stove till the tongues are done, which you can
ascertain by pricking them with a packing-needle; if it goes in easy
they are done; take them up and peel off the skin, cut each tongue into
three slices of the shape of cotelettes, dress them in a crown upon
mashed potatoes, glaze well, and serve with a sauce aux champignons (No.
52). If the tongues are boiled the day previous, warm them as directed
langue de bœuf (No. 644).
Calves’ tongues dressed this way may also be served with sauce à la
jardinière (No. 100), sauce piquante, or sauce poivrade (Nos. 27 and
32).
No. 668. _Calves’ Brains._
Procure two sets of brains, leave them four hours in water to disgorge,
take off the skin which covers them, and put them in a stewpan, with a
pint of water, one wineglass of vinegar, some salt, two onions sliced, a
carrot, a few cloves, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; let
boil gently from twenty minutes to half an hour, take them up, lay on a
cloth, and cut each one in halves, place them in the dish and serve with
a sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), matelote (No. 62), maître d’hôtel (No.
43), or piquante (No. 27), or beurre noir (No. 306).
No. 669. _Queues de Veau à la Ravigote._
Four calves’ tails are quite sufficient for an entrée, procure them as
large and as white as possible; cut them in pieces an inch and a quarter
in length, and put them into a stewpan, with a quart of good white
stock, two onions, half a carrot, head of celery, three cloves, a bunch
of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; set on the fire to boil, skim, and
place it at the corner to simmer for two hours, or until the tails are
done, which you can tell by pressing them with your finger, drain them
on a cloth, lay a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your entrée
dish, stand the larger pieces perpendicularly upon it, then again other
pieces upon them, till they form a pyramid; have ready a good ravigote
sauce (No. 44), rather highly seasoned, which pour over and serve; the
sauce should be thick enough to adhere to the pieces.
No. 670. _Queues de Veau à la Poulette._
Cook and dress the tails as before, and sauce as directed for turban de
tête de veau à la poulette (No. 663).
No. 671. _Of Sweetbreads._
The middle-sized heart-breads are to be preferred to the over large or
small, the throat-bread is rarely used to dress and serve whole, but may
be served in blanquettes, vol-au-vents, or ragouts. Sweetbreads cannot
be too white, if red when brought in leave them four or five hours in
warm water to disgorge, put them in a stewpan well covered with water to
blanch, (if you put them in cold water they will be blanched enough as
soon as the water begins to boil), throw them a minute in cold water,
then lay them on a dish face downwards, place the bottom of another dish
upon them, on which place a four pounds weight, they are then ready for
use where directed; three sweetbreads are sufficient for an entrée if
rather large, and four if small.
No. 672. _Ris de Veau à la Santa Cruz._
Take three good sweetbreads, blanch as directed, then lard them (with
very thin strips of fat bacon an inch and a half in length) from top to
bottom an inch and a half in width, and again from one side to the other
to form a cross; have thirty-six pieces of truffles cut in the shape of
cloves, but much thicker and rather longer, (twelve for each
sweetbread), make a hole with a larding-needle in the centre of the
cross in which place a piece of the truffle, proceeding in like manner
in the centre of the bacon at equal distances apart, cover the bottom of
a flat stewpan with fat bacon, lay the sweetbreads upon it, cover the
bottom of the stewpan about the depth of two inches with stock, place it
over the fire till the stock boils, put it in the oven about half an
hour will be sufficient to cook them, (but that depends upon their size
and the heat of the oven,) try them with a larding-needle, if quite
tender through they are done; but if soft in the middle and toughish
leave them a little longer, glaze them lightly and salamander a nice
gold colour, drain them on a cloth and have ready the following sauce:
blanch one ounce of riband macaroni in water till tender, dry, and put
it in a stewpan, with ten spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1), and two of
tomata sauce (No. 37), with a piece of glaze, reduce till rather thick,
then add twenty heads of mushrooms and two tablespoonfuls of grated
Parmesan cheese; season with a little sugar and cayenne, pour the sauce
in your dish, dress the sweetbreads over and serve very hot.
No. 673. _Ris de Veau piqué à la Turque._
Blanch four small heart-sweetbreads as directed, and lard them nicely
from end to end lengthwise, with fat bacon an inch and a half in length,
and breadth in proportion, braise as directed in the last; have ready a
ring of forcemeat (No. 120) made in a round plain mould[7] well
buttered, with a round piece of bread in the centre; lay the forcemeat
round the bread an inch and a half in thickness, place the mould in a
stewpan of boiling water, (but do not let the water get into the
mould), place the stewpan over the fire till the forcemeat is set, then
take it out, detach the bread from the centre and turn out the
forcemeat, which will be a complete ring, place it on the dish, cut each
of the sweetbreads in halves and dress them upon it, the cut part
towards the middle; then have ready blanched half a pound of good rice
as directed (No. 129), put it in a stewpan, with six pats of butter, two
spoonfuls of cream, a little saffron powder, pepper, salt, and sugar;
mix all together and dress in pyramid in the centre, place a fine
(dressed) cockscomb between each half sweetbread, sauce over the rice
with sauce au suprème (No. 57), glaze the sweetbreads and serve.
No. 674. _Ris de Veau piqué à la Financière._
Blanch, lard, and braise three sweetbreads as before; have ready a
ragout à la financière (No. 50), which pour in the dish, dress your
sweetbreads over, glaze lightly and serve.
No. 675. _Ris de Veau piqué à la purée d’asperges._
Blanch, lard, and braise three sweetbreads as before, but keep them a
more delicate colour and drain them well upon a cloth; when you take
them from the stewpan have ready a purée of asparagus (No. 102), which
pour into the dish, dress the sweetbreads over and serve.
Larded sweetbreads may be also served with a truffle sauce (No. 51),
Palestine, jardinière, aux concombres, dressed spinach, or endive (see
Nos. 87, 100, 103, 106, and 119.)
No. 676. _Ris de Veau rôti._
Heart-sweetbreads are also preferable for roasting, although the
throat-breads may be used; blanch as before and let them cool, place
them in a stewpan, with two onions, two cloves, a blade of mace, a
carrot, quarter of a pound of lean ham, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and
bay-leaf, just cover with a good stock, and place them on the fire to
boil twenty minutes, take them out, dry on a cloth, egg and bread-crumb
them twice over, then run a long flat skewer through them lengthwise,
which tie up on a spit, roast before a fierce fire till they become a
nice light brown, keeping them basted with butter; pass the stock they
were boiled in through a sieve into another stewpan, boil and skim well,
place the sweetbreads in a dish, pour some of the stock round and serve;
it may also be served with sauce piquante, poivrade, or tomata (Nos. 27,
32, 37).
No. 677. _Caisse de ris de Veau à la Ninon de l’Enclos._
Roast four sweetbreads as directed in the last, and let them remain till
cold, then open and empty them, thus making a case, leaving it a quarter
of an inch in thickness; cut up what you have taken from them in slices,
have also twenty small pieces of cucumber, prepared as directed for
sauce (No. 103), put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan,
with a very small piece of butter, pass over the fire a few minutes, but
keep them quite white, then add three parts of a pint of white sauce
(No. 7) and a little milk, reduce till thickish, keeping it stirred, add
the sweetbread and cucumber, season with a little sugar and salt, and
when it boils add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of
cream; do not let it boil afterwards, fill the cases and cover the
opening with a little very thick fritter butter (No. 1285), place them
in a sharp oven, and as soon as the batter is baked sufficient, dress
them on your dish, three at the bottom and one on the top; serve with a
thin bechamel sauce (No. 7) under.
No. 678. _Escalopes de Ris de Veau au suprème._
Blanch three sweetbreads twenty minutes, and when cold cut each bread
into four slices lengthwise, and trim in the shape of fillets of fowl,
well butter the bottom of a sauté-pan, lay in the escalopes, keeping
them in their shapes, season over with a little white pepper, salt, and
the juice of half a lemon, place over a slow fire, ten minutes will be
sufficient to cook them; when done on one side turn, keep them quite
white, lay them on a cloth to drain, and dress in crown on a border of
mashed potatoes; serve with a sauce au suprème (No. 57) poured over.
No. 679. _Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux pointes d’asperges._
Dress three sweetbreads as in the last, and serve a sauce aux pointes
d’asperges (No. 101) in the centre.
No. 680. _Escalopes de Ris de Veau à l’Indienne._
Dress three sweetbreads as in the two last, but keep them rather
underdone; when cold egg and bread-crumb them twice over, put six
spoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when hot
lay in the escalopes, which fry a nice light brown colour, dress in a
crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a nice white Indian
sauce (No. 45) in the centre, previously glazing the escalopes lightly.
No. 681. _Escalopes de Ris de Veau en caisses._
Blanch four throat-sweetbreads, and cut them in slices one size larger
and three times the thickness of a shilling, butter the bottom of a
sauté-pan and put in two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots, lay the
pieces of sweetbread over, season with a little salt and pepper, and
place them over a slow fire; when done add a spoonful of chopped
mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), a
little glaze, half a pint of broth, a little powdered sugar and grated
nutmeg; let simmer altogether ten minutes, moving them round by shaking
the sauté-pan, have six or eight small paper boxes, or cases, fill each
of them three parts full with the above, egg the top with a paste-brush,
sprinkle bread-crumbs over and place them in a warm oven twenty minutes,
pass the salamander over, dress them in pyramid on your dish, and serve
with plenty of fried parsley.
No. 682. _Atelettes de Ris de Veau._
Prepare the sweetbreads precisely as in the last, but add a liaison of
two yolks of eggs mixed with four tablespoonfuls of cream, and leave
them to get cold in the sauce, have six silver skewers (atelettes), and
run six or eight pieces of sweetbread upon each, with as much sauce as
possible adhering to them, smooth round with a knife, dip them in eggs
well beaten in a basin, then into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a
knife, dip them again into the bread-crumbs, fry in hot lard, dress them
as described for atelettes de palates de bœuf (No. 655), and serve a
sauce Italienne (No. 30) under.
No. 683. _Blanquette de Ris de Veau aux truffes._
Blanch three throat-sweetbreads twenty minutes, cut them in slices the
size and double the thickness of half-crown-pieces, cut also into thin
slices six good-sized truffles, then put a tablespoonful of chopped
eschalots in a convenient-sized stewpan, with a small piece of butter,
pass them a few minutes over a sharp fire, keeping them quite white, add
a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce three minutes, then add the
sweetbread and truffles, season with a little salt and sugar, simmer
gently five minutes, finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with
half a gill of cream, pour it out in your dish and garnish with eight
large triangular croutons of bread (in the form of a star) fried in
butter, which glaze and serve.
No. 684. _Vol-au-vent de Ris de Veau._
Make a vol-au-vent as directed (No. 1140), cook two sweetbreads with
truffles as in the last, and when ready to serve fill your vol-au-vent,
which glaze lightly and serve very hot.
Sweetbreads may also be served either in blanquettes or vol-au-vents,
with cucumbers, stewed mushrooms, slices of tongue or ham, instead of
truffles.
No. 685. _Of Tendrons de Veau._
For one entrée you will require the tendrons from two breasts of veal,
which are cut out without injuring the breasts, and afterwards stewed
(see breast of veal in the Removes); tie the two tendrons together and
put them in a deep stewpan, with two carrots, four onions, six cloves, a
good bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; cover with a second stock,
place them on the fire, and when boiling draw it on the corner, skim,
and let stew gently for six or seven hours; when done (which you may
ascertain by running the point of your knife through them, if tender
they are done, if not stew them till they are,) lay them on a dish, take
away the string, pull out the small bones which may remain, and place
another dish of the same size upon them, on which place a seven pounds
weight; when quite cold and set, cut twelve pieces out of them either of
an oval or diamond shape, but not too large, egg and bread-crumb the
sides but not the edges twice over, and fry them gently of a light-brown
colour in a sauté-pan. Serve with any of the sauces directed for the
sweetbreads.
No. 686. _Tendrons de Veau à la Noble Dame._
Prepare two tendrons as before, and when quite cold cut out twelve
pieces of any shape you please, but one third less than in the previous
article, put a quart of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with six
spoonfuls of white stock and two of chopped mushrooms; reduce till thick
enough to cover the back of the spoon, take it off the fire and stir in
the yolks of two eggs very quickly, take your pieces of tendrons one at
a time with a fork, dip them in the sauce so that they are covered on
every part, and lay them on a dish to get cold; have ready some fritter
batter (No. 1285), dip each piece of tendron with as much sauce as
adheres to it, and fry in very hot lard, dress them in crown on a border
of mashed potatoes, fill the centre with fried watercresses, for sauce
put a gill of cream in a stewpan, and when boiling add two pats of
butter and a little salt; when the butter is quite melted sauce round
and serve.
No. 687. _Tendrons de Veau à la Dauphine._
Proceed precisely as in the last, but instead of dipping them in the
batter, egg and bread-crumb twice over and fry in very hot lard of a
fine yellow colour; serve with a sauce tomate (No. 37) poured round.
No. 688. _Cotelettes de Veau piqué aux petits pois._
Veal cotelettes require to be cut from the neck in the same shape as
mutton cutlets, four are sufficient for an entrée, they must be very
nicely larded on one side, like a sweetbread, braise in the same kind of
manner until very tender, glaze lightly, and salamander of a light-brown
colour; have ready boiled a pint of young peas, which put in a stewpan,
with two pats of butter, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of powdered
sugar; when boiling finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with
a tablespoonful of cream, pour into the dish and dress the cotelettes
over in a square, glaze lightly and serve; dressed in the above manner
they may also be served with sauce à la jardinière, aux navets au brun,
aux pointes d’asperges, aux concombres, sauce poivrade, or sauce tomate.
No. 689. _Cotelettes de Veau en papillote._
Cut six small veal cotelettes, do not lard them, put six tablespoonfols
of oil in a sauté-pan, in which fry the cotelettes; when done pour off a
little of the oil, put four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, one of
chopped parsley, one of chopped mushrooms, and twenty of brown sauce
(No. 1) seasoned rather high, moisten with a little stock and simmer
altogether twenty minutes, place the cotelettes on a dish in the sauce
to get cold, cut six pieces of paper in the shape of hearts, oil them,
and put a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible
around, fold each one up, plaiting it at the edges, broil them twenty
minutes over a slow fire, and dress them in a circle on your dish
without removing the papers.
No. 690. _Cotelettes de Veau à la Sans Façon._
Cut four large cotelettes, which season well, dip them in a basin
containing two eggs well beaten, then throw them into a dish of
bread-crumbs, in which you have mixed some finely chopped eschalots and
parsley, beat them with your knife, dip them into warm clarified butter,
and again into the bread-crumbs, beat again with your knife, and broil
them nicely over a sharp fire; have in a stewpan six or eight well
boiled mealy potatoes, add four pats of butter and a little pepper and
salt, mash them well with a fork, adding a gill of cream by degrees,
mixing quickly they will be very light, dress them in a pyramid on your
dish, glaze the cotelettes, which stand upright against the potatoes,
and serve; this is an excellent dish for luncheon.
No. 691. _Noix de Veau for Entrées._
Are prepared exactly in the same manner as described for the flancs (No.
565), only they are not required so large, half the noix being quite
sufficient, that is, cut into two slices, trim it of a nice shape, lard,
dress, and serve, with the sauces as described for the flancs.
No. 692. _Grenadins de Veau piqué aux racines nouvelles._
Cut twelve fillets from a noix de veau the size and shape of fillets of
fowl, lard them nicely with very finely cut bacon, cover the bottom of a
convenient-sized sauté-pan with thin slices of fat bacon, upon which lay
the grenadins, add a little veal stock but not enough to cover them,
place a sheet of buttered paper over and stand them in a moderate oven
for an hour or till tender, moistening occasionally with a little of the
stock; when done glaze them lightly and salamander of a light colour,
then have prepared twenty young carrots and twenty young turnips, which
cook as directed (No. 109), dish the grenadins in crown upon a border of
mashed potatoes, place a pyramid of the potatoes in the centre of the
dish, upon which dress the carrots and turnips in rotation; have ready
the following sauce: put the glaze from your vegetables in a stewpan,
with half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and a little good stock, place
it on the fire, skim, and reduce until rather thick; sauce over your
vegetables and serve.
Grenadins may be served with any of the sauces as described for noix de
veau or sweetbreads.
No: 693. _Of Veal Kidneys._
The kidney being part of the loin is usually served with it, and a loin
of veal roasted without it would be considered worthless, but still the
loins may be dressed, as directed in the Removes, without the kidneys;
to stew them proceed as follows: cut three kidneys into thin slices, put
an ounce of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, place over the fire,
and just as it begins to get brown throw in the kidneys, stir them over
the fire with a wooden spoon, and when they become firm add half a
tablespoonful of flour, stir it in, then add a glass of sherry, eight
spoonfuls of broth, and twenty mushrooms, let all boil together five
minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the juice of
half a lemon, if too thick add more broth, pour them on a dish and
serve, or they would look better served in a croustade of bread (No.
416) fried a nice yellow colour.
No. 694. _Veal Kidneys en Caisses._
Proceed exactly as described for ris de veau en caisses (No. 681).
No. 695. _Boudin de Veau à la Legumière._
Make two pounds of veal forcemeat as directed (No. 120), cover the sides
of a plain round mould with vegetables, precisely as directed for a
Chartreuse (No. 604), then cut a piece of bread quite round, the depth
of the mould, cover the bread with white buttered paper, and stand it in
the centre of the mould,[8] leaving the space of an inch and a half all
round, which fill up with the forcemeat, being careful not to disarrange
the vegetables; when well filled, put the mould in a stewpan, cover with
a piece of stiff paper, put water enough in the stewpan to come three
parts of the way up the mould, place the stewpan over the fire and let
it simmer gently (keeping it covered) nearly an hour, turn it out on
your dish, take the bread and paper from the centre, sauce over with a
good demi-glace (No. 9), and serve.
No. 696. _Boudin de Veau à la Richelieu._
Butter a plain round mould rather thickly, have five or six good-sized
truffles chopped very fine, throw them in the mould, which roll round
until the sides are quite covered with them; then prepare a piece of
bread as in the last, fill the space up with the same forcemeat, blanch
it in a stewpan as before, turn out on your dish, take away the bread,
and serve with a sauce Périgueux (No. 55) over it.
No. 697. _Of Mutton for Entreés._
For entrées the small South Down mutton is much to be preferred, the
principal entrées made from mutton are cotelettes, which never will be
out of vogue; I shall therefore give a numerous list of receipts for the
dressing of them, but the manner of cutting them requires particular
attention; the most simple method is to take the chine-bone off from the
neck neatly with a saw, but not quite detaching all the meat from the
bone, then cut it into chops, leaving a bone to each; with a knife cut
off the skinny part from each side of the bone and a piece of the meat
at the end of the bone, so as to leave a piece of bone about half an
inch in length, then with a cotelette-bat beat them nearly to the same
thickness as the bone, take the rough parts of the bone off with your
chopper, and trim the cotelettes of a good shape, taking off a greater
part of the fat and rounding the lean part nicely; but in cutting
cotelettes to look well, much depends upon the taste of the person, they
require to be cut some time previous to cooking, or they would shrink
and loose their shape.
No. 698. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Reform._
Chop a quarter of a pound of lean cooked ham very fine,
[Illustration: Mutton Cutlet]
[Illustration: Pork Cutlet]
[Illustration: Lamb Cutlet]
and mix it with the same quantity of bread-crumbs, then have ten very
nice cotelettes, lay them flat on your table, season lightly with pepper
and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, and throw them into the ham and
bread-crumbs, then beat them lightly with a knife, put ten spoonfuls of
oil in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when quite hot lay in
the cotelettes, fry nearly ten minutes (over a moderate fire) of a light
brown colour; to ascertain when done, press your knife upon the thick
part, if quite done it will feel rather firm; possibly they may not all
be done at one time, so take out those that are ready first and lay them
on a cloth till the others are done; as they require to be cooked with
the gravy in them, dress upon a thin border of mashed potatoes in a
crown, with the bones pointing outwards, sauce over with a pint of the
sauce reform (No. 35), and serve. If for a large dinner you may possibly
be obliged to cook the cotelettes half an hour before, in which case
they must be very underdone, and laid in a clean sauté-pan, with two or
three spoonfuls of thin glaze; keep them in the hot closet, moistening
them occasionally with the glaze (with a paste-brush) until ready to
serve; the same remark applies to every description of cotelettes.
No. 699. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Vicomtesse._
Cut, bread-crumb, and fry ten mutton cotelettes as in the last, but let
them be rather underdone, then have ready six large quenelles of veal
(No. 120) quite cold, mash them in a basin with a wooden spoon, then add
a teaspoonful of very finely chopped eschalots, two of chopped parsley,
and a little grated nutmeg, with a tablespoonful of cold white sauce
(No. 7) and the yolk of an egg; mix all well together, and put a piece
of the size of a walnut upon each cotelette, spread it even, then have
ten thin small slices of cooked ham, place a slice upon each cotelette,
which again cover with the forcemeat, forming a flattish dome, but not
too thick; egg over with a paste-brush, sprinkle with bread-crumbs, put
again into the sauté-pan, and place them in a moderate oven ten minutes,
salamander a light colour, dress in crown on a thin border of mashed
potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put two yolks of eggs in a
stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little pepper and salt, a
tablespoonful of vinegar from India pickles, and a little lemon-juice,
stir it quickly over the fire with a wooden spoon until beginning to
thicken, then add ten tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce (No. 7) with four
of milk, stir over the fire, but do not let it boil, then pass it
through a tammie into a clean stewpan, stir it another minute over the
fire, sauce over, have two firm green India pickles and half an ounce of
lean cooked ham chopped very fine, which sprinkle over and serve very
hot.
No. 700. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Westphalienne._
Prepare ten cotelettes as in the last, mixing chopped Westphalia ham
with the bread-crumbs instead of the common ham, likewise sprinkling ham
over the forcemeat instead of bread-crumbs, place them in the oven as
before, and salamander a nice colour, dress in crown as in the last, and
have ready the following sauce: pound a quarter of a pound of lean
Westphalia cooked ham very fine, add two ounces of butter and pass it
through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, then put a pint of brown sauce
(No. 1) in a stewpan with six spoonfuls of consommé (No. 134) and a
piece of glaze the size of a walnut; reduce and skim till becoming a
good demi-glace, add two tablespoonfuls of tomata sauce, a little sugar,
and the butter with the ham, stir over the fire until the butter is
melted, sauce over and serve.
No. 701. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Provençale._
Have ready ten cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg
with a paste-brush, and dip them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly with a
knife and fry in oil, but very much underdone, lay them on a cloth, and
have ready the following: chop six middling-sized onions very fine and
put them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, pass them over a
moderate fire ten minutes, keeping stirred with a wooden spoon, then add
half a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), half a pint of white sauce
(No. 7), and four tablespoonfuls of good stock, boil altogether a
quarter of an hour or till the onions are quite tender, season with a
little pepper, salt, and nearly a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, draw
the stewpan off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs, place over
the fire another minute, pour it out on a dish to get cold, place a
piece the size of a large walnut upon each cotelette, spread it over
with a knife, leaving it thickest in the middle; egg them with a
paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, drop a little oil on each, put
them in the same sauté-pan, place in the oven ten minutes, salamander a
light brown, and dress them on your dish as before; have ready the
following sauce: put nearly a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan
with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, and eight spoonfuls of
consommé (No. 134); reduce and skim well till it adheres to the back of
the spoon, add a little scraped garlic the size of a couple of peas,
sauce over and serve; more garlic may be added if approved of.
No. 702. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Bohémienne._
Have twelve good cotelettes well-trimmed, lay them in a basin and pour a
quart of good marinade hot over them (see filet de bœuf à la
Bohémienne, No. 426), let them remain four or five days, turning them
occasionally; when wanted take them out, dry on a cloth, dip in flour
and broil them quickly over a sharp fire, dress in crown like the
cotelettes reform, and have ready the following sauce: a gill of the
marinade in a stewpan, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), six
of brown sauce, and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, reduce till
it becomes half glaze again, then add a spoonful of red-currant jelly,
three anchovies well washed, and cut into small diamond-shaped pieces,
also twenty pieces of gherkins cut in the same shape, let warm in the
sauce, which pour over and serve. The cotelettes may be bread-crumbed if
required.
No. 703. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Soubise._
Prepare twelve cotelettes, season with a little pepper and salt, egg
over with a paste-brush, and throw them into bread-crumbs, beat lightly
with a knife, and fry them in clarified butter in a sauté-pan, dress on
your dish as before, and serve with a sauce Soubise (No. 47) under,
glaze lightly when dressing them on your dish.
No. 704. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Durcelle._
Egg, bread-crumb, and fry twelve cotelettes in oil, when done take out
and lay them on a cloth, put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots and two
of chopped onions in the sauté-pan, fry them a light brown colour, pour
off as much oil as possible, add half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and
a little consommé, let boil quickly ten minutes, then add a little
sugar, cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, the same
of chopped parsley, and one teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, put the
cotelettes into the sauce to get hot, have ready four paper cases six
inches long, lay three cotelettes in each, pour the sauce over, place
them in a moderate oven ten minutes, dress on your dish in the cases and
serve immediately.
No. 705. _Cotelettes de Mouton aux petites racines._
Prepare and fry twelve cotelettes as directed for cotelettes à la
Soubise, dress in crown and proceed as for the grenadins de veau (No.
692), glaze them lightly and serve.
No. 706. _Cotelettes de Mouton sauce piquante._
Dress the cotelettes as above, glaze lightly and serve with sauce
piquante (No. 27) over them.
No. 707. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Jardinière._
Dress twelve cotelettes as before described, dish as usual, have ready a
sauce jardinière (No. 100), place the vegetables, and sauce in the
centre, glaze the cotelettes lightly, and serve.
No. 708. _Cotelettes de Mouton aux champignons._
Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, and have ready the
following sauce: put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with a
little consommé, reduce it a little, and skim; then add thirty
mushrooms, season with a little pepper and sugar, add a small piece of
glaze half the size of a walnut, and boil altogether ten minutes; pour
the sauce in the middle of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve.
No. 709. _Cotelettes de Mouton aux navets au brun._
Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as in the last, have prepared forty
scoops of turnips, each the size of a marble, put them in a stewpan with
an ounce of butter, and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over a fire ten
minutes, keeping them tossed, to prevent their burning, then add a pint
of brown sauce (No. 1) and half a do. of consommé, stand it on the
corner of the stove, skim well, and let it remain till the turnips are
tender, and the sauce becomes rather thick; then pour it in the centre
of the cotelettes, which glaze and serve; should the turnips be done
before the sauce is thick, take them out with a colander spoon until it
has sufficiently reduced.
No. 710. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Palestine._
Dress and dish twelve cotelettes as before, have ready the following
sauce: scoop forty scoops of Jerusalem artichokes the size of the
turnips in the last, and proceed exactly the same, using white sauce
(No. 7), and white stock instead of brown, and finishing with a good
tablespoonful of liaison; serve as before; they must not be boiled too
quickly, or they will break to pieces.
No. 711. _Cotelettes de Mouton aux pointes d’asperges._
Prepare and dress the cotelettes as before, have ready boiled, very
green, half a bundle of sprue grass cut into pieces a quarter of an inch
in length, put eight tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), with four of
white stock in a stewpan, and when a little reduced add the sprue, with
half a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt; let boil a
minute, and finish with a liaison of half a yolk of egg mixed with two
tablespoonfuls of cream, sauce in the centre of the cotelettes, which
glaze lightly, and serve. When sprue grass is cheap, dress it thus for
cotelettes: you have cut and boiled a bunch very green; drain it upon a
sieve, and whilst hot put them into a stewpan, with six pats of butter,
a teaspoonful of salt, and the half of one of sugar; place over the
fire, stirring round gently until the butter is melted, then dress them
in a pyramid in the centre of the cotelettes, pour a thin bechamel sauce
round, glaze the cotelettes, and serve. By this simple method you retain
the full flavour of the grass.
No. 712. _Cotelettes de Mouton aux haricots verts._
Proceed exactly as before, using some French beans cut in diamonds and
nicely boiled, instead of the sprue grass, dress the beans in either of
the above methods.
No. 713. _Cotelettes de Mouton aux petits pois._
Dress and dish your cotelettes as usual, have ready, nicely boiled, a
pint of young peas (No. 1075) which put in a stewpan with an ounce of
fresh butter, two spoonfuls of white sauce, a bunch of green onions,
half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt; keep them moving over
the fire by shaking the stewpan till they are quite hot; take out the
onions, finish with a liaison of a yolk of egg and two tablespoonfuls of
cream, dress the peas in the centre, glaze the cotelettes, and serve.
The peas may also be dressed in either of the methods directed in the
two last.
No. 714. _Cotelettes de Mouton aux chouxfleurs._
Dress the cotelettes as before, have nicely boiled two small
cauliflowers, put ten tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a
stewpan, with half a teaspoonful of sugar and a little salt; divide each
cauliflower into eight pieces, and when the sauce boils add them to it,
finish with a liaison of half the yolk of an egg, mixed with three
tablespoonfuls of cream, and serve as before. The cauliflower must not
be too much done, or it would break to pieces.
No. 715. _Cotelettes de Mouton aux truffes._
Proceed with the cotelettes as before, put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9)
in a stewpan, with a little consommé, and reduce till it adheres to the
back of the spoon; have six middling-sized preserved truffles cut in
thin slices, which throw into the sauce whilst boiling, season with a
little sugar, boil all together a few minutes, glaze the cotelettes,
sauce over, and serve.
No. 716. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Maintenon._
Have twelve cotelettes nicely cut, lay them on the table and season
lightly, put two tablespoonfuls of oil in a sauté-pan, lay in your
cotelettes, and fry over a moderate fire till three parts done, take
them out, and put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sauté-pan;
fry till of a light brown colour, pour off as much of the oil as
possible, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and two tablespoonfuls of
tomata sauce (No. 37), with a little consommé, a teaspoonful of chopped
mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, a little sugar, grated nutmeg,
pepper, and salt; reduce till rather thick, then throw in the cotelettes
for a few minutes, turn out on a dish, and leave them to get cold in the
sauce; have twelve pieces of white paper, each cut in the shape of a
heart and large enough to fold a cotelette in, rub a little oil over,
and place a cotelette in each with as much of the sauce as possible;
fold them up, and broil ten minutes over a moderate fire, dress them in
a crown on your dish, without taking them out of the papers, which must
well cover the cotelettes, or they would be very dry.
No. 717. _Cotelettes de Mouton sauce remoulade._
Dress twelve cotelettes as for sauce Soubise (No. 703), then put six
tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with three of veal
stock or consommé, place it over the fire, and when boiling add an equal
quantity of sauce tartare (No. 38) stir over the fire till hot, but do
not let it boil, sauce under, and serve.
No. 718. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Financière._
Proceed with the cotelettes as before, and serve the ragout à la
financière (No. 50) in the centre, only observe that the garniture must
be very small, or it would look clumsy with such an entrée as
cotelettes.
For cotelettes de mouton à l’Italienne, ditto, sauce poivrades, ditto,
aux fines herbes, and ditto, aux jus d’échalotte, dress the cotelettes
as usual, and sauce over with either of the above-named sauces (see Nos.
30, 32, 26 and 27).
No. 719. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Proceed with the cotelettes as before described, then put eight
tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with two of cream
and two of broth; when boiling add one ounce of maître d’hôtel butter
(No. 79), shake the stewpan round till the butter melts, then pour the
sauce under the cotelettes; have ready some fried potatoes very crisp,
cut thin, and of the size of six penny-pieces, which build in pyramid in
the centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.
No. 720. _Cotelettes de Mouton à la Hollandaise._
Proceed precisely as for the last, only using some sauce Hollandaise
(No. 66) instead of the sauce maître d’hôtel, fried potatoes the same.
For the two last entrées the sauce must not be too thick.
No. 721. _Cotelettes de Mouton panée, grillée._
Prepare twelve nice cotelettes, which season nicely, egg and bread-crumb
them, beat lightly with a knife, have some hot clarified butter in a
stewpan, dip each cotelette in, then throw them into bread-crumbs, beat
again with your knife, and place them on the gridiron over a moderate
fire, turning them now and then, ten minutes will be sufficient, dress
in crown with a little plain gravy, or with any of the foregoing
sauces.
No. 722. _Of Cotelettes braised._
Braised cotelettes are much more in vogue in France than in England, for
in the former they prefer meat stewed, whilst in the latter the meat is
more succulent and tender, and even for Soubise or Provençale the
cotelette sauté is preferred, although properly they ought to be
braised; I shall, therefore, describe the manner of braising them and
leave the choice to my readers.
Prepare a neck of mutton by cutting off the chine-bone, and cut the
cotelettes as before, but let them remain nearly of the same thickness
you cut them from the neck, which will be nearly an inch, then stick
five or six pieces of fat bacon about the size of a quill through the
lean of each cotelette, cutting off the ends, then cover the bottom of a
stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon and lay twelve cotelettes over,
all laying on the same side, just cover them with stock, to which add an
onion, three cloves, and a bunch of parsley, place a sheet of buttered
paper over them, and place them over a slow fire to simmer between two
and three hours, try them and if very tender place them upon an oval
dish, with a little of their stock, place another dish over them upon
which put a seven pounds weight; when quite cold trim nicely of equal
sizes and put them in a sauté-pan with their stock to warm, dress them
in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce Soubise
(No. 47), or any other sauce as directed for the cotelettes sautés.
Although these cotelettes are required to be tender they must not be too
much done or the bones would fall from them.
No. 723. _Cotelettes de Mouton braisé à la Marseillaise._
Cook your cotelettes as directed in the last, but cut them rather small;
when cold cover all over with the preparation of onion as for
cotelettes à la Provençale, egg and bread-crumb all over and place them
in the oven for a quarter of an hour, dress in crown, previously giving
them a nice colour with a salamander, and serve with a sauce Soubise
(No. 47) much thinned, with cream under them.
No. 724. _Carbonade of Mutton._
Prepare a loin of mutton as a carbonade (see flancs No. 577), and when
cold cut it in slices rather more than half an inch in thickness, reduce
the stock the carbonade was boiled in to a thin glaze, put the slices in
a sauté-pan and pour it over them, place them over a slow fire till
quite hot, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve
with any of the sauces named for cotelettes.
No. 725. _Poitrine de Mouton sauce piquante._
Braise and press a breast of mutton as directed (No. 487), and when cold
cut ten pieces out of it in the shape of cotelettes, one third fat and
two thirds lean, but not too large, egg, bread-crumb, and broil as for
cotelettes panées grillées (No. 721), dress in crown on a border of
mashed potatoes, glaze and serve with sauce piquante (No. 27) in the
centre. They may also be served with sauce Soubise (No. 47), poivrade
(No. 32), jus d’échalotte (No. 16), or fines herbes (No. 26).
No. 726. _Rognons de Mouton à la brochette._
Mutton kidneys dressed in this manner are usually served for breakfast
or luncheon, but they may be served as an entrée for dinner. Procure
nine fresh kidneys, cut them open and run silver or wooden skewers
through to keep them open, season well, egg over with a paste-brush, and
dip them into a dish of bread-crumbs, broil over a moderate fire, about
ten minutes will be sufficient; when done dress them on your dish in
pyramid, place a piece of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79) in each, half
the size of a walnut, place them in the oven two minutes, glaze lightly
and serve very hot.
No. 727. _Rognons à la Tartare._
Broil nine kidneys as above, and serve with a good sauce à la tartare
(No. 38) under them.
No. 728. _Rognons de Mouton à la Vénitienne._
Cut ten fresh kidneys in halves the long way, take off the skins and cut
out the roots, or they would shrink in cooking; put two ounces of butter
in a sauté-pan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots, place the pan on
the fire and as soon as the butter melts place in the kidneys, fry about
five minutes, and when half done turn them, dress them in a crown on a
border of mashed potatoes, and put them somewhere to keep hot; pour as
much of the butter as possible from the sauté-pan, and put in a pint of
brown sauce (No. 1) and six spoonfuls of consommé; boil altogether ten
minutes, then add half an ounce of anchovy butter (No. 78) and the juice
of half a lemon, mix it well in, sauce over the kidneys and serve.
No. 729. _Rognons de Mouton sauté au vin de champagne._
Skin eight kidneys and cut them into thin slices, put an ounce of butter
in a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter begins to
brown throw in the kidneys, stir round with a wooden spoon and when they
become firm add a small tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add two
wineglasses of champagne with two of white broth and twenty blanched
mushrooms; let all boil very gently a few minutes, season with the juice
of half a lemon, a little pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; pour them
out on your dish and serve. The sauce requires to be rather thick,
sherry or hock may be used instead of champagne.
No. 730. _Pieds de Mouton à la Poulette._
Proceed as directed for the flanc (No. 630) and serve them in a small
casserole of rice, according to the size of your entrée dish.
No. 731. _Pieds de Mouton à la purée d’oignons._
Cook the feet as directed (No. 630), and have ready prepared the
following purée: peel and cut in dice four large onions, which put in a
stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter over the fire, keeping them
stirred with a wooden spoon till tender, then add a tablespoonful of
flour, mix well, a pint of milk and a little broth, season with pepper,
salt, and sugar, keep boiling till the onions are quite done, then put
in the feet, which let simmer a few minutes, finish with a liaison of
two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, stir well, and place
it over the fire a minute, keeping it stirred to thicken, serve either
on a dish or in a casserole of rice (No. 626). They require to be
seasoned rather highly.
ENTREES OF LAMB.
No. 732. _Pieds d’Agneau._
Lambs’ feet are cooked in the same manner as the sheeps’ but do not
require quite so long to stew; having previously cooked ten feet put a
pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with half a pint of white
stock and four button onions; reduce to half, then pass it through a
tammie over the feet into another stewpan, season with a little pepper,
salt, and sugar, add twenty heads of mushrooms and a little chopped
parsley; simmer altogether two or three minutes, add a little
lemon-juice, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with
half a gill of cream, mix quickly and serve in a pâté chaud (No. 618),
or casserole of rice (No. 626), made according to the size of your dish.
No. 733. _Pieds d’Agneau farcis._
Have eight feet ready cooked and cold, then have prepared a quarter of a
pound of veal forcemeat (No. 120), with which add a little chopped
parsley, chopped eschalots, and the yolk of an egg, fill the part of the
feet with it from which you took the large bone, put them again into the
stock they were cooked in and simmer twenty minutes, take them out,
drain on a cloth, and dress them in pyramid by placing a little mashed
potato upon the bottom of the dish, laying four at the bottom and
finishing with one at the top, sauce over with a sauce Hollandaise (No.
66), and serve with chopped gherkins sprinkled over them.
No. 734. _Pieds d’Agneau en marinade._
Having cooked eight feet, cut each one in halves lengthwise and put in a
basin with two onions sliced, two bayleaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch
of parsley, a glass of vinegar, two spoonfuls of oil, and a little salt
and pepper, let them remain four hours, drain upon a cloth, and dip them
into fritter batter (No. 1285), fry a nice light brown colour, dress on
a napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with some tomata sauce
(No. 37) in a boat.
No. 735. _Pieds d’Agneau en cartouche._
Have cooked eight feet, which dry upon a cloth, make a sauce like for
the cotelettes durcelle (No. 704), stew the feet in it twenty minutes,
then leave them to get cold in the sauce, have eight pieces of
cartridge paper, (each piece large enough to fold a foot in,) oil them
and lay in a foot with as much of the sauce as you think sufficient,
roll them round and fold the paper at each end to imitate a cartridge,
broil them over a slow fire, dress in pyramid and serve with a little
gravy in a boat.
No. 736. _Oreilles d’Agneau à la Belle Fermière._
Procure eight or ten lambs’ ears and put them into lukewarm water to
disgorge for two or three hours, then make a blanc (No. 459), in which
put the ears to stew; let them be well covered or they will turn black,
boil gently about an hour, if done the thick part of the ears will feel
tender, if not ready to serve let them remain in the stock until wanted,
make a border of forcemeat as described for the ris de veau à la Turque
(No. 673), place it on your dish, take out the ears, make five or six
incisions in the thin part of each ear and turn them back to imitate a
frill, dress upon the forcemeat to imitate a vase, by turning the curl
of the ears outwards, put some mashed potatoes in the centre of the
dish, upon which place a fine green bunch of asparagus well-boiled, and
not more than four inches in length, standing upright; sauce over with a
thin sauce à la purée d’asperges (No. 102), and serve.
No. 737. _Oreilles d’Agneau à la Marquise._
Cook and dress eight or ten lambs’ ears, as above, on a border of
forcemeat, only turning the ears half reverse way, they will then form a
crown; place a plover’s egg peeled and warmed in stock in the hollow of
each ear, and have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce
(No. 7) in a stewpan with eight tablespoonfuls of white stock or milk,
reduce one-third, then in another stewpan have ten cockscombs nicely
dressed and ten button mushrooms, pass the sauce through a tammie upon
them, place over the fire, add a gill of cream and the juice of half a
lemon, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when hot put the
garniture in the centre of the dish, sauce over and serve.
No. 738. _Oreilles d’Agneau à la Ravigote._
Cook and dress ten ears precisely as in the last, omitting the eggs, put
half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with half the quantity
of white stock, and let it reduce one third; then have ready two ounces
of butter, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon,
one of chopped chervil, one of chopped parsley, and two of tarragon
vinegar; season with a little pepper and salt, mix it with the sauce,
stir over the fire till hot, but do not let it boil, sauce over and
serve.
No. 739. _Oreilles d’Agneau à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Proceed exactly as above, only using two ounces of maître d’hôtel butter
(No. 79) instead of the butter there described.
No. 740. _Oreilles d’Agneau en marinade._
When cooked cut each ear in halves, lengthwise, and proceed exactly as
for the pieds d’agneau (No. 734).
No. 741. _Oreilles d’Agneau farcis._
Have eight ears cooked as before, dry them well with a cloth, then put
half a pound of veal forcemeat (No. 120) in a basin, with a teaspoonful
of chopped eschalots and one of chopped mushrooms, mixed with the yolk
of one egg; put a spoonful of the forcemeat in the hollow of each ear,
egg and bread-crumb them all over and fry twenty minutes in lard, not
too hot, or they would be too brown before they were sufficiently done;
dress them on a border of mashed potatoes and serve with a sauce
Italienne (No. 30) under.
No. 742. _Queues d’Agneau à la Crèmière._
Lambs’ tails are extremely delicate, cut four into pieces an inch and a
half in length, and cook them as directed (No. 627); when tender take
them out, put sixteen spoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with four
of veal stock, boil five minutes, season with a little salt, pepper,
grated nutmeg, and sugar; when boiling put in the tails, and two minutes
before serving add half an ounce of butter and the juice of half a
lemon, move the stewpan round over the fire till the butter is melted,
add two spoonfuls of whipped cream, and when quite hot pour into your
dish and serve, or they may be served in a vol-au-vent, casserole of
rice, or croustade. Lambs’ tails may be dressed in any of the methods
directed for lambs’ feet, and require to be rather highly seasoned.
No. 743. _Langue d’Agneau à la Persane._
Procure eight lambs’ tongues, let them disgorge twelve hours in lukewarm
water, cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay
the tongues over and cover them with stock, add two onions, one carrot,
and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; when boiling draw them to
the corner of the stove to simmer, skim well, try when done with a
trussing-needle; if they feel tender take them up, take off the skin,
trim a little on each side, cut them in halves lengthwise in the shape
of cotelettes, and dress them on a border of mashed potatoes; have ready
the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan
with the half of one of salad-oil, pass them a few minutes over the
fire, add a glass of sherry, boil a minute, then add a pint of white
sauce (No. 7) and six spoonfuls of white stock, reduce till rather
thick, add a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms and one of chopped
parsley, season rather high, draw it off the fire, put in the yolks of
two eggs, mix quickly, stir over the fire another minute to thicken,
then put it on a dish until cold; with a knife spread it over the
tongues half an inch in thickness, so as to form one mass, egg and
bread-crumb over and place it in the oven half an hour, salamander a
light brown colour and serve very hot, with the following sauce round:
put four spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with four of
white broth, let it boil a few minutes, then add two spoonfuls of cream;
boil all together, season and serve.
Calf’s tongue may also be dressed as in the last, but instead of being
covered in the manner there described, serve it with a sauce matelote
(No. 62) in the centre and glaze the tongue lightly.
No. 744. _Lambs’ Brains à l’Innocent._
Procure eight or ten lambs’ brains and put them in lukewarm water to
disgorge, take off the skins, put the brains in a stewpan with two
minced onions, a bunch of parsley, and a little carrot, cover with
water, add a glass of vinegar, and a little salt, and boil them ten
minutes, then lay them on a cloth and divide each piece in two thin
slices, have eight paper cases in which lay the slices of brains,
seasoning separately, place a piece of butter on the top of each, with a
little chopped parsley, lemon-juice, and a spoonful of white sauce (No.
7); egg and bread-crumb the top, and place them in a hot oven to brown,
dress upon the dish in the cases pyramidically and serve.
No. 745. _Lambs’ Fry._
Procure two sets of lambs’ fry, which blanch ten minutes in boiling
water, drain them on a sieve, and when quite dry egg over with a
paste-brush, throw them into bread-crumbs, with which you have mixed
some chopped parsley, fry them in very hot lard of a nice light-brown
colour, dress pyramidically upon a napkin, garnish with fried parsley
and serve.
No. 746. _Ris d’Agneau aux petits pois._
Procure ten lambs’ heart-sweetbreads, if not very white lay them in
lukewarm water to disgorge, put them in a stewpan of boiling water to
blanch, two minutes will be sufficient; throw them into a basin of cold
water, and when cold, lard very neatly with very thin strips of bacon,
when larded cover the bottom of the stewpan with thin slices of fat
bacon, two onions sliced, and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves,
lay the sweetbreads over, and put in sufficient broth to come up to
their sides, set them in a sharp oven for about twenty minutes, glaze
and salamander very lightly; then have ready prepared a border of
forcemeat as directed for ris de veau à la Turque (No. 673), which place
in the centre of your dish, dress the sweetbreads upon it, then have a
pint of young peas nicely boiled, put them in a stewpan with three pats
of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over the fire five minutes,
and finish with a liaison of half the yolk of an egg mixed with a
tablespoonful of cream, place them in the centre, glaze the sweetbreads
lightly and serve.
No. 747. _Ris d’Agneau à la Cambaçères._
Lard, cook, and dress eight nice sweetbreads as above, then have nicely
cooked nine very fine cockscombs (No. 128), and place one between each
sweetbread; have also the following garniture and sauce: prepare thirty
very small quenelles of fowl (No. 122), poach them in stock, drain on a
cloth, and put them in a stewpan, with six truffles turned to the size
of small marbles, and twelve fine olives (stoned) in another stewpan,
put half a glass of sherry, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of chopped
onions, and a piece of glaze the size of a nut, boil two minutes, then
add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and eight spoonfuls of consommé,
reduce to a good thickness, and add the trimmings of some fresh
mushrooms, then pass it through a tammie over the garniture, boil all
together one minute, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of sugar, and pour
the sauce in the middle of the dish, building the garniture in a dome,
and placing the remaining cockscombs on the top, glaze the sweetbreads
lightly and serve.
No. 748. _Ris d’Agneau aux concombres._
Lard, cook, and dress ten sweetbreads as before, and serve a sauce aux
concombres (No. 103) in the centre; they may also be served with a sauce
à la jardinière (No. 100), pointes d’asperges (No. 101), sauce tomate
(No. 37), &c.
No. 749. _Ris d’Agneau à la Madone._
Blanch ten nice sweetbreads, trim them well, cut a deep incision in the
centre of each, in which stick a very fine cockscomb (No. 128); surround
each sweetbread with a slice of fat bacon, place them in a stewpan and
braise as before, but they must be kept quite white, braise half an
hour, take off the bacon and dress them upon a border of forcemeat as
the last, the cockscombs will be quite firm, then have ready the
following sauce: peel and mince the half of a very small cucumber and
put it in a stewpan with a chopped eschalot and a pat of butter, let
them go gently over the fire, stirring occasionally, until it has become
quite a purée, add a quarter of a pound of the flesh of a cooked fowl
well pounded in a mortar, season with a little salt and pepper, boil
all together five minutes, rub it through a tammie, put into a clean
stewpan, and when boiling finish with a tablespoonful of whipped cream,
sauce over and serve. The sauce must not be too thick.
For atelettes de ris d’agneau, see atelettes de ris de veau (No. 682),
and proceed in the same manner.
No. 750. _Epigramme d’Agneau aux haricots verts._
Procure the ribs of a lamb, saw off the breast as large as possible,
leaving the bones of the neck long enough to cut cotelettes, braise and
press as directed for breast of mutton (No. 487); the day before you
want to use it, cut seven nice cotelettes from the neck, then cut seven
pieces from the breast, rather small, and the shape of hearts, egg and
bread-crumb the cotelettes, which also fry in the same sauté-pan, the
whole of them to be of a nice light-brown colour, make a border of
mashed potatoes upon your dish, on which dress the cotelettes upon one
side and the pieces of breast on the other, have one hundred French
beans cut in diamonds and boiled very green, drain them quite dry on a
sieve, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of sugar, and the juice of
a lemon; set over the fire till very hot, dress them in the centre,
glaze the cotelettes and breast lightly, pour nearly half a pint of thin
white sauce round and serve very hot.
No. 751. _Epigramme d’Agneau aux petits pois._
Proceed with the breast and cotelettes exactly as in the last, using
peas instead of French beans, and omitting the lemon-juice; or they may
be served with the petits pois à la Française (No. 84), or petits pois
au lard (No. 85); experience has taught me that the above is not only
the most simple method, but the peas eat much nicer than in either of
the other ways; the peas must be young and perfectly fresh, if the
reverse stew them by all means.
No. 752. _Epigramme d’Agneau aux concombres._
Proceed exactly as before, using a sauce aux concombres (No. 103)
instead of the other vegetables.
No. 753. _Epigramme d’Agneau à l’Ancienne._
Prepare your cotelettes and breast as before, but dress them alternately
on the dish; you have previously roasted a shoulder of lamb, when cold
cut half a pound of the best part out, which cut into slices the size of
half-a-crown, cut also ten fine heads of blanched mushrooms in two
slices and put them into a stewpan with the lamb; in another stewpan put
a pint of white sauce (No. 7), six spoonfuls of white stock, with four
of boiled milk and a bunch of parsley, reduce to a proper thickness,
pass it through a tammie over the lamb and mushrooms, place over the
fire to boil, season lightly with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and the
juice of half a lemon; let simmer a few minutes, add a liaison of one
yolk of egg mixed with half a gill of cream, move the stewpan gently
over the fire till the sauce thickens, pour the sauce in the centre,
glaze the cotelettes and serve.
Although this way of serving an epigramme is good, yet I give the
preference to the other, for the lamb coming in season with the
vegetables they look so much more inviting; the epigramme à l’ancienne I
consider fitter for a winter dish.
No. 754. _Cotelettes d’Agneau aux petits pois._
Lamb cotelettes require great attention, both in cutting,
bread-crumbing, and frying. Cut twelve cotelettes of the same size and
shape as represented in the engraving, lay them upon a dish, season
lightly with white pepper and salt, put three yolks of eggs upon another
plate, which mix with a tablespoonful of cream, rub each cotelette in
it and afterwards into very fine bread-crumbs, beat them lightly with
your knife, keeping them in their shapes, have a quarter of a pound of
butter in a small stewpan, let it boil at the corner of the stove,
skimming it until perfectly clarified, then pour it into a thick
flat-bottomed sauté-pan over a brisk fire, lay in the cotelettes
(turning them two or three times, which will cause them to be a light
brown colour); fry very crisp, not doing them too much; if properly done
they will be very full of gravy; to ascertain when done press them
lightly with the point of your knife; if beginning to feel a little firm
they are done; take them out, glaze very lightly, dress them in your
dish upon a border of mashed potatoes the reverse way, the bones
pointing outwards, and serve the peas dressed as for epigramme (No. 750)
in the centre. My object in using mashed potatoes is to keep the
cotelettes in their places in being carried to table. Why I recommend a
thick-bottomed sauté-pan is that the thin ones by the action of the fire
frequently rise in the centre, which would cause the cotelettes to burn
and completely spoil this delicate entrée.
No. 755. _Cotelettes d’Agneau aux pointes d’asperges._
Prepare and dress twelve lamb cotelettes as above, and serve with the
garniture aux pointes d’asperges.
No. 756. _Cotelettes d’Agneau aux haricots verts._
Prepare and dress the cotelettes as before, and serve with the garniture
aux haricots vert.
No. 757. _Cotelettes d’Agneau aux racines glacées._
Prepare your cotelettes as above, dress them on a small border of mashed
potatoes, then have ready the young vegetables and sauce as directed for
grenadins de veau aux racines nouvelles (No. 692), dress the vegetables
in pyramid in the centre, sauce round, glaze lightly and serve.
In a large dinner where you are obliged to cook your cotelettes some
time before serving, put them into a sauté-pan, half cover them with
thin glaze, and keep hot till wanted. This remark applies to every
description of cotelettes.
No. 758. _Cotelettes d’Agneau aux jeunes oignons._
Prepare and dress twelve lamb cotelettes as before; have ready the
following sauce: peel fifty spring onions nearly as large as marbles,
put half a teaspoonful of sugar into a stewpan, place it over the fire
and when melted add two pats of butter and your onions, pass over a slow
fire twenty minutes or till tender, tossing them occasionally, then add
fifteen spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), with eight of white stock and
a small bunch of parsley, simmer at the corner of the fire a few
minutes, skim well, take out the parsley, make a liaison of one yolk of
an egg mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, stir in quickly, stir
another minute over the fire to thicken, sauce in the middle of the
cotelettes, which glaze and serve; should the onions be too much done
take them out with a colander spoon, place them in a clean stewpan,
reduce the sauce and pass it through a tammis over them.
No. 759. _Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Palestine._
Proceed exactly as for cotelettes de mouton (No. 710), but scooping the
artichokes a size smaller.
No. 760. _Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Vicomtesse._
Proceed as for cotelettes de mouton à la vicomtesse (No. 699).
No. 761. _Cotelettes d’Agneau à la purée de truffes._
Prepare twelve lamb cotelettes as usual, and have ready the following
purée: put six large French truffles in a mortar and pound them very
fine, then put a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, with four
spoonfuls of consomme, reduce a few minutes, keeping it stirred, add the
pounded truffles and a little sugar, simmer a couple of minutes, rub it
through a tammie with a couple of wooden spoons, put it again into a
stewpan to make hot, sauce under the cotelettes, which glaze and serve.
The French raw truffles are the best, but if you cannot obtain them use
the preserved, or raw English truffles if most handy, but choose the
blackest you can get.
No. 762. _Cotelettes d’Agneau à la purée de champignons._
Prepare twelve cotelettes as usual, which glaze and serve with a sauce à
la purée de champignons (No. 54) under them.
No. 763. _Cotelettes d’Agneau à la purée d’artichauts._
Prepare the cotelettes as usual, and have ready the following purée:
peel and slice eight large Jerusalem artichokes, and one small onion,
put the onion into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, two ounces of raw
ham, a sprig of thyme, ditto parsley, and one bay-leaf; stir over the
fire five minutes, then add the artichokes, with a very little white
stock, cover the stewpan and place it over a slow fire, stirring round
occasionally; let them remain till quite tender, then add a
tablespoonful of flour, mix well, and nearly a pint of white stock; boil
altogether, keeping it stirred, rub it through a tammie, place it in
another stewpan, add a little sugar, pepper, and salt, boil and skim
well, finish with two tablespoonfuls of good cream, sauce under the
cotelettes, which glaze and serve; these purées require to be rather
thick, yet not so thick as to eat pasty and disagreeable.
Lamb cotelettes may also be served with a purée of cauliflowers (No.
97), cucumbers, (No. 105), or asparagus (No. 102).
No. 764. _Cotelettes d’Agneau farcis aux truffes._
Cut, lard, and braise twelve lamb cotelettes as described for mutton
(No. 722), but they will not require so long stewing, press them between
two dishes until cold, trim them nicely, then make a purée of truffles
as directed (No. 53), but thicker, take it off the fire whilst boiling,
and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, place it a moment on the
fire to set, and pour on a dish to get cold, then take the cotelettes by
the bones and surround them with the purée, spreading it over with a
knife, egg and bread-crumb twice over, and put them in a wire basket;
have four pounds of lard in a stewpan over the fire and very hot, put in
the wire basket and cotelettes, fry of a nice light-brown colour, dress
them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a little
clear demi-glace (No. 9) in the dish.
No. 765. _Cotelettes d’Agneau farcis aux champignons._
Prepare your cotelettes as above, make a purée of mushrooms as directed
(No. 54), but thicker, and adding the two yolks of eggs as in the last,
spread it over the cotelettes, bread-crumb, fry, and serve exactly as in
the last.
Lamb côtelettes farcis may also be made with purée of asparagus (No.
102), cauliflower (No. 97), artichokes (No. 90), or cucumbers (No. 105),
by following the above articles.
For cotelettes d’agneau à la reform, Provençale, maître d’hôtel,
Hollandaise, poivrade, piquante, or tomates, see cotelettes de mouton,
with the same sauces, and proceed as there directed.
No. 766. _Blanquette d’Agneau._
Roast a shoulder of lamb, and when cold cut the best part of it into
thin slices about the size of half-crown-pieces, cut also about half the
quantity of cooked ham or tongue into pieces of the same size as the
lamb, put them together in a stewpan; you have previously boiled in
another stewpan a pint of good white sauce (No. 7), and half a pint of
stock with a bunch of fresh parsley in it, which pass through a tammie
over the meat, season with pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon,
simmer gently, pour on a dish and serve; truffles or mushrooms may
likewise be added, and it may be served in a croustade of bread,
casserole of rice (No. 626), or vol-au-vent (No. 1140); if you have the
remains of any joint of lamb it may be used for the above purpose.
No. 767. _Croquettes d’Agneau._
Roast a shoulder of lamb and when cold cut it up in very small dice with
one fourth the quantity of cooked ham or tongue; put a tablespoonful of
chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, pass it over a
fire till the onion becomes yellowish, then add a little flour, mix
well, put in your mince, with about a pint of white sauce (No. 7),
season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; boil all together five
minutes, keeping it stirred, if too thick add a little more sauce, then
add two yolks of eggs, stir them in quickly over the fire for one
minute, add the juice of a lemon, and pour it out on a dish to cool;
when quite cold take twelve pieces of it rather larger than walnuts,
roll them about two inches in length, egg and bread-crumb twice over and
fry in very hot lard; dress them on your dish in crown upon a small
border of mashed potatoes, and serve with some of the blanquette
d’agneau above, in the centre.
ENTREES OF PORK.
Very few entrées are made of pork, the cotelettes being the principal;
they require a sharp high-seasoned sauce; the small pork only can be
used.
No. 768. _Cotelettes de Porc à l’Indienne._
Cut twelve cotelettes from a neck of pork, similar to the manner
directed for mutton cotelettes, only you will be able to cut four
cotelettes without bones, by cutting a cotelette from between the
rib-bones, as they require little or no beating, you cut them from the
neck of the same thickness you require your cotelettes, egg and
bread-crumb and fry them a nice colour in clarified butter; they require
to be well done, for underdone pork is very unwholesome; dress in a
crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce à
l’Indienne (No. 45) under them; if for a dinner of any importance omit
the cotelettes without bones, using two necks to obtain the quantity.
No. 769. _Cotelettes de Porc sauce remoulade._
Prepare and dress the cotelettes as above, and proceed as for the mutton
cotelettes, sauce remoulade (No. 717).
Pork cotelettes are also served with their original sauce Robert (No.
28), sauce piquante (No. 27), au jus d’échalotte (No. 16), or poivrade
(No. 33) over, and with a sauce tomate (No. 37) beneath them; the
cotelettes require glazing, especially where the sauce is served under
them.
No. 770. _Cotelettes de Porc à la Siamoise._
Prepare twelve cotelettes as before, dress them on your dish, and have
ready the following sauce: peel forty button onions, then put half a
teaspoonful of sugar in a stewpan, and place it over the fire; when
melted and beginning to brown, add two ounces of butter and the onions;
keep tossing them over the fire until they get rather brown, add a pint
of brown sauce (No. 1), and half the quantity of consommé; let boil on
the corner of the stove till the onions are done, keeping it well
skimmed, the onions must be tender but not broke, take them out
carefully with a colander spoon and place them in a clean stewpan;
reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a
tablespoonful of French mustard, and pass it through a tammie over the
onions; have also twenty little balls the size of marbles, cut from some
gherkins, which put in the sauce, warm altogether, but do not boil,
dress the onions and gherkins in the centre, sauce over and serve.
No. 771. _Cotelettes de Porc à la Bolognaise._
Prepare twelve cotelettes as before, but mixing some grated Parmesan
cheese with the bread-crumbs, and frying them in oil; then cut eighty
pieces of blanched macaroni (No. 130), about three quarters of an inch
long, with twenty pieces of cooked ham or tongue, and twenty mushrooms
the same size as the macaroni; put them into a stewpan, with two
spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), and a piece of glaze the size of a
walnut; place over the fire and when quite hot add two ounces of grated
Parmesan, and two of grated Gruyere cheese, mix well together by shaking
the stewpan round, season with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, if
approved of, and pour in the centre of your cotelettes, which glaze and
serve with nearly half a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) poured round and
over the garniture.
No. 772. _Cotelettes de Porc à la Jeune France._
Prepare twelve cotelettes as before, but cook them rather underdone,
have ready the preparation of onions as for cotelettes à la Provençale
(No. 701), with a spoonful of French mustard added, cover the cotelettes
all over with it about a quarter of an inch in thickness, egg,
bread-crumb, and fold each one in a piece of pig’s caul to keep its
shape, put a little oil in the sauté-pan, lay in the cotelettes, put it
over the fire for two or three minutes, then in the oven to give them a
good colour, if not sufficient colour pass the salamander over, take
them out, lay upon a clean cloth to drain, dress in crown upon a border
of mashed potatoes, and serve with a demi-glace (No. 9) round.
No. 773. _Filets de Porc à l’Hanoverienne_.
Procure four small fillets of pork from under the loins, take off all
the skin and beat them flat, lard neatly with fine bacon as for a
sweetbread, cover the bottom of stewpan with thin slices of bacon, two
onions in slices and a little parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, lay the
fillets over, add about a pint of stock, stand it over the fire five
minutes, then put it in the oven; when done they will be quite tender,
glaze and salamander a nice colour, place them on a clean cloth to
drain, and cut each fillet in halves, dress upon a border of mashed
potatoes in crown, have ready some very white stewed choucroute (No.
116), which dress in pyramid in the centre, put twelve spoonfuls of
brown sauce in a stewpan with four of consommé, a small piece of glaze,
and a little powdered sugar, reduce till rather thick, sauce round and
serve. Your choucroute must be very white.
Fillets of pork may also be served with dressed spinach (No. 106), ditto
endive (No. 119), sauce tomata (No. 37), Robert (No. 28), or Indienne
(No. 45).
No. 774. _Escalopes de Porc à la Lyonnaise_.
Procure four fillets from the loin as in the last, but do not lard
them, cut them into pieces the size and shape of a fillet of fowl, egg,
bread-crumb, and fry in clarified butter, dress in crown on your dish,
sauce over with a brown Soubise (No. 48), sprinkle bread-crumbs over,
salamander and serve.
Escalopes may also be served with any of the sauces as served with the
cotelettes.
No. 775. _Langue de Porc demi salé._
Have three fillets of pork larded, and braise as (No. 773), and cut each
fillet in halves to make six pieces, boil also three small pigs’
tongues, split each one in half, skin and trim nicely, make a border of
mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets and tongues
alternately in crown, glaze lightly and serve with a sauce tomate (No.
37).
Pigs’ tongues may be dressed in the same manner as calves’ or sheep, but
they are not such delicate eating.
DOE VENISON, OR CHEVREUIL.
The flesh of the doe or roebuck is a kind of black meat, and possesses a
wild gamey taste; it is seldom used without being pickled in a marinade,
and is sent to the table with a sharp and savoury sauce.
No. 776. _Cotelettes de Chevreuil à la Bohémienne._
Cut twelve cotelettes from the necks, the same as you would mutton, but
they will be rather larger, make two quarts of the marinade as for filet
de bœuf à la Bohémienne (No. 426), and lay in the cotelettes, let
them remain four days; when ready for use take them out, dry upon a
cloth, season with a little pepper and salt, dip in flour, egg and
bread-crumb afterwards, dip them in clarified butter, and again in the
bread-crumbs, beat them lightly with a knife, place them on a gridiron,
broil nicely, dress them in crown, and have ready the following sauce:
put six tablespoonfuls of the marinade in a stewpan, with a piece of
glaze the size of a walnut, reduce it a little, then add twelve
spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 1) and six of consommé, reduce again until
it adheres to the back of the spoon, season a little high, add half a
tablespoonful of currant jelly, sauce round and serve. Garniture as for
cotelettes de mutton may be introduced.
No. 777. _Cotelettes de Chevreuil sauté sauce poivrade._
Having cut twelve cotelettes, season with pepper and salt, put a quarter
of a pound of butter in a sauté-pan, melt it and lay in the cotelettes,
put them over a sharp fire and when partly done turn, keeping them
underdone; take all the butter away without disturbing the cotelettes,
then pour a pint of thin poivrade sauce (No. 32) and half a pint of
consommé over, let them simmer about ten minutes till the meat has taken
the flavour of the sauce, dress the cotelettes as before, reduce the
sauce till it adheres to the spoon, add twenty pickled mushrooms, sauce
over and serve.
No. 778. _Minced Chevreuil._
With the remains of a haunch or any other part from a previous dinner,
take the meat and cut it up in very thin slices, have ready boiling on
the fire about a pint of sauce piquante (No. 27), throw in the meat, but
do not let it boil; after the meat is in, season rather high, and finish
with a spoonful of currant jelly, it requires to be rather thick, turn
it out on your dish and garnish round with triangular scippets of bread
fried in butter, serve immediately.
No. 779. _Of the Wild Boar._
The principal and most recherché part of this ferocious animal is the
head, which is eaten cold, stuffed the German fashion; it is, however, a
second course dish, and will be given in that series. The cotelettes are
dressed exactly as the chevreuil, it may also be minced, but as it is
seldom or ever eaten in this country, I shall content myself with these
few remarks (see Boar’s Head, No. 984).
No. 780. _Of Venison for Entrées._
The haunches and necks are usually roasted, its high price would prevent
its being cut up for entrées, as that would only be spoiling a noble
dish to make a small one, and then would not be so delicious as the
joint nicely roasted, but in large families in the country, where
venison is very plentiful, the receipts for a few entrées may be very
acceptable.
No. 781. _Cotelettes de Venaison en demi-glace._
A neck of venison requires to be hung a fortnight or three weeks before
it is ready; cut the cotelettes as described for mutton, but of course
they will be larger, and you must leave as much of the fat as possible,
and be careful in beating it flat not to detach the fat from the lean,
as the fat is so delicate; put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan to
melt, lay the cotelettes over and place them on a brisk fire, when half
done turn them, fry them a good colour, (they are done when they feel
firm to the touch,) lay upon a cloth, dress in crown on a small border
of mashed potatoes, and place them in the oven to keep hot, pour off the
fat from the sauté-pan, and put in a glass of port wine, let reduce a
little, then add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9) and four spoonfuls of
consommé, reduce till it adheres to the spoon, add a little sugar and a
pat of butter, mix well, and sauce over the cotelettes, which serve as
hot as possible.
No. 782. _Cotelettes de Venaison aux olives._
Proceed exactly as above, but just before pouring the sauce over add
about twenty stoned olives, dress them in the centre, sauce over and
serve; truffles or mushrooms may likewise be introduced.
No. 783. _Cotelettes de Venaison au jus de groseilles._
Sauté and dress your cotelettes as above, then put a pint of thin sauce
poivrade (No. 32) in the sauté-pan with a little consommé, reduce till
thickish, skim a little, add a spoonful of currant jelly, sauce over and
serve.
No. 784. _Hashed Venison._
The remains of a haunch of venison when cold is much thought of as hash,
under which humble name it makes its appearance amongst the most
sumptuous dishes, and is a great favourite with epicures, but if no fat
remains do not attempt to dress it; but a good haunch well-carved will
supply sufficient fat to hash the remainder.
Put a quart of good brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan with a pint of
consommé (No. 134), a piece of glaze, and a good bunch of parsley, let
reduce to a good demi-glace, skim, then have as much venison as you
require cut in thin slices, the fat thicker than the lean, put it into
the sauce, season with pepper and salt, put it over a sharp fire to get
hot as quick as possible, but do not let it boil or it would get hard
and become very greasy, serve as hot as possible, with red currant jelly
separate, make only sufficient for one entrée.
No. 785. _Venison Pie_.
May also be made from the remains of a haunch in a common pie-dish or
silver soufflée-dish; put some thin slices of venison at the bottom of
the dish, season with pepper, salt, and little chopped eschalot, then a
layer of fat, proceeding alternately till the dish is full, building it
up to form a dome and give the pie a good appearance, put in a piece of
glaze the size of a walnut, a few spoonfuls of gravy, and four of brown
sauce, cover with puff-paste (No. 1132), make a hole in the top, egg
over, and bake in a hot oven; when done pour about six spoonfuls of
demi-glace (No. 9) into it with a funnel, shake it about a little and
serve very hot. Should you require to make a pie with raw venison pass
it a few minutes in butter in a sauté-pan upon the stove.
ENTREES OF POULTRY.
No. 786. _Estomacs de Dinde à la Turenne_.
Many entrées may be made of turkey, but it is usually served as a
remove, being too large, and consequently too expensive to cut up; but
several entrées may be made from the remains of one previously served,
for the following choose very young small turkeys.
Have a young turkey well plucked and drawn, with a sharp knife cut off
the whole of the breast, leaving nothing but the legs and backbone, then
carefully skin and bone the breast without separating the fillets, it
will then be in the form of a heart; lard one of the fillets as you
would a sweetbread, and cover the other with a slice of fat bacon, put
three onions, one carrot, and one turnip, in slices, into a
convenient-sized stewpan, with a little parsley, thyme, and two
bay-leaves, cover them with half a pint of stock, lay the breast over
and start it to boil over the fire, then place it in a moderate oven
till tender, glaze and salamander the larded fillet a light yellow
colour, but keep the other white, drain upon a clean cloth, and serve
with a sauce à la purée de truffes (No. 53) under them.
No. 787. _Estomac de Dinde à la Jeune Comtesse._
Prepare the breast as above, only larding and glazing both fillet; you
have previously roasted the legs tied up in vegetables, take off all the
flesh, which pound well in a mortar and pass through a wire sieve, then
put a spoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two pats of
butter, place it over the fire a few minutes till the eschalots become a
little yellow, then add a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour (mix
well,) and the purée of turkey, which cover with half a pint of white
sauce (No. 7) and six spoonfuls of white broth, stir over the fire until
boiling, season with a little sugar, pepper, and salt, and pass it
through a tammie with a couple of wooden spoons, put it in a clean
stewpan, boil a few minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of cream and a
pat of butter, which stir in quickly, pour it in your dish, dress the
breast over and serve. The above purée requires to be rather thick, but
at the same time delicate, if there is more than you require, reserve
some of it, as too much sauce would spoil the look of the entrée.
No. 788. _Escalopes de Dinde en blanquette._
Take out the two fillets of a turkey, and take off all the skin, then
beat them to the thickness of a five-shilling-piece, and from each
fillet cut five escalopes in a slanting direction, put two ounces of
fresh butter in a sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when melted lay
in the escalopes, season lightly with a little white pepper, salt, and
the juice of half a lemon, place them on a slow fire, turn them, pour
off all the butter from the sauté-pan, and cover with fifteen spoonfuls
of white sauce (No. 7) and four of milk, place over the fire, let it
simmer a few minutes, take it off and stir in quickly a liaison of two
yolks of eggs mixed with three spoonfuls of cream, stir over the fire
another half minute, but do not let it boil, dress them garnished with
croutons on your dish and serve; a few mushrooms and slices of cooked
tongue might also be introduced.
No. 789. _Escalopes de Dinde à la Belle Fermière._
Fillet a turkey as before, and cut each escalope into an oval shape,
season with a little salt and pepper, egg and bread-crumb, fry a light
brown colour in clarified butter, dress them on a border of mashed
potatoes in crown, with a large dressed cockscomb (No. 128) between
each, sauce in the middle and round as for estomac de dinde (No. 787),
and serve very hot.
No. 790. _Emincée de Dinde à l’Italienne_
Is made with the remains of a turkey from a previous dinner, cut large
slices from the breast-part, as much as you may require, and put them
into a stewpan with six gherkins cut in long slices, have ready a pint
of good sauce Italienne (No. 31), and when boiling pour it over; warm
them gently, but do not let them boil, and serve in a dish with very
small croquettes de pommes de terre (No. 131) round.
No. 791. _Blanquette de Dinde au Jambon._
Cut up the remains of a turkey as above, and put it in a stewpan, with a
quarter of a pound of lean ham (cooked) also in slices, in another
stewpan, have a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint of white
stock, which boil with a few trimmings of mushrooms, then pass it
through a tammie over the slices of turkey, place it on the fire, let
simmer a few minutes, season with a little sugar and salt, add the juice
of half a lemon, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, mixed
with three tablespoonfuls of cream, serve plain in your dish, or in a
vol-au-vent or casserole of rice (No. 626).
Croquettes, rissolettes, and boudins are made with the remains of
turkey, in the same manner as described for fowls (No. 840).
No. 792. _Filets de Poulardes à l’Ambassadrice._
Poulardes being smaller than capons, are better adapted for entrées, but
both are dressed in the same manner.
Have previously roasted in vegetables and quite white two small
poulardes; when cold, with a sharp knife cut out the fillets, which
again cut into two equal slices, beat them slightly with the blade of a
strong knife, then have ready half a pound of delicate forcemeat of fowl
(No. 122), with which put a couple of finely chopped truffles, cover
each piece of fillet the eighth of an inch thick, and all over, then
have chopped finely two more truffles, the same quantity of lean ham,
mix the same quantity of bread-crumbs with each, egg the fillets over,
then dip them into the chopped ham and truffles, four into each, and
sauté them in clarified butter very gently, turn them when half done,
and when done dress them in crown upon your dish; have ready a thin
sauce à la purée de concombres (No. 105), to which when boiling add
twelve fine cockscombs (No. 128) and a little cream, sauce in the
middle, and serve.
No. 793. _Filets de Poularde à la Marie Stuart._
Fillet a poularde by splitting the skin up the breast, and passing your
knife down the bone, keeping close to the ribs until you have scooped
them out, then lay them flat on a board, and with a thin knife take off
the inner skin, leaving the upper one untouched; then cut off the legs,
with as much skin as possible attached, bone them, and prepare the
following stuffing: scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, and put it in a
stewpan, with four cloves, a blade of mace, six peppercorns and a
bay-leaf, pass them over the fire five minutes, stirring with a wooden
spoon, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add six large truffles cut in
thin slices, pass them three minutes over the fire, then add twelve
spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), boil altogether ten minutes, keeping
it stirred, season with a little salt, pepper, sugar, and a little
nutmeg; take it off the fire, and stir in the yolk of an egg very
quickly; when cold stuff the legs, braise, and give them the form of
little ducks; then stuff the fillets with the best slices of truffles
under the skin, and put them in a sauté-pan, with half a pound of
butter, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, sauté them
very white over a slow fire, then make a little pyramid of mashed
potatoes in the middle of your dish, lay the two fillets almost upright
against it, opposite to each other, and the two legs on the other sides,
surmount them with a very nice, white, dressed calf’s ear (No. 665) cut
as a frill, with a plover’s egg (shelled) placed in the centre, make a
good stock with the bones of the poularde (see No. 6), skim off all the
fat, and reduce it very nearly to a glaze, then add six spoonfuls of
white sauce (No. 7) and half a gill of cream; boil altogether a minute,
sauce over, and serve. The entrée will stand best upon a pyramid of
mashed potatoes, but a pyramid of forcemeat blanched in stock may be
used.
No. 794. _Filets de Poulardes à la Talma._
Fillet two poulardes as described in the last, then take off the filet
mignon, or small fillet, from the under part of each, lard the large
fillet neatly as you would a sweetbread, and braise them as described
for the estomac de dinde (No. 786), then have twelve French beans boiled
nice and green, cut pieces from them in half circles, beat the small
fillets gently, make incisions in them, in which stick the pieces of
French beans, sauté them in a sauté-pan, keeping them quite white, then
have ready some spinach dressed (No. 106) rather stiff, make a pyramid
of it in the centre of the dish, dress the fillets almost perpendicular
against it, with the smaller fillets between, the points uppermost, and
on the top place a quenelle de volaille (No. 122), in which you have
stuck a fine cockscomb, pass the braise in which you dressed the fillets
through a sieve, skim off all the fat, and place it in a stewpan, with
ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, and reduce it till it adheres to the back
of the spoon, add a little sugar, sauce over, glaze your fillets and
serve.
No. 795. _Filets de Poularde à la Russe._
Prepare a little rice as for a casserole de riz (No. 626), with which
form a small pyramid to stand in the centre of your dish, egg over and
stand it in the oven to set, then cut a piece off the top, and empty a
space large enough to hold a quarter of a pint; at the top of the
pyramid there requires a space the size of half-a-crown, after you have
emptied it put the top on again, and keep it hot; then fillet two
poulardes as above, take off the small fillets, which form into rings by
bringing the two ends together, butter a sauté-pan, in which lay the
fillets, with the rings, season with a little white pepper, salt, and
lemon-juice; place them over the fire, when half done turn them, but
keep them quite white, have also previously boiled a Russian tongue,
from the thick part cut four pieces the size and shape of the fillets of
fowl, but not quite so thick, place the rice in the centre of your
dish, and dress the fillet of poulardes and pieces of tongue, (which you
have made hot in a little white stock,) alternately round it, put twenty
stewed mushrooms in the rice croustade, and have ready the following
sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in the sauté-pan, with the
broth you warmed the tongue in and six spoonfuls of veal stock; boil
altogether ten minutes, pass it through a tammie into a stewpan, boil
again till it becomes rather thick, then add a little sugar and a gill
of cream, sauce over the mushrooms till the croustade is full, then over
the fillets, glaze the tongue, place the rings on the top of the
pyramid, pour the remainder of the sauce round and serve; the person
that carves should be acquainted that the croustade of rice contains
mushrooms, that he might carve the croustade and serve with the entree.
No. 796. _Filet de Poularde à la Pierre le Grand._
Fillet two poulardes as in the last, and when about three parts cooked
lay them on a cloth, and with a thin sharp knife divide each fillet into
two; have previously boiled a Russian tongue as in the last, cut also
four pieces from the thick part, and pound the remaining tender part
very fine; rub it through a wire sieve, then put a tablespoonful of
chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, stir over
the fire a few minutes, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, and a pint
of white sauce (No. 7), reduce it a little, then add the pounded tongue
and two yolks of eggs, stir them in quickly, and season a little more if
required, stir over the fire a short time longer, till the eggs begin to
set, then with a fork dip in each fillet, let them be well covered, and
lay them on a dish to get cold, when egg and bread-crumb them twice
over, and fry a good colour in four pounds of very hot lard, warm the
four pieces of tongue in a little stock, make a border of mashed
potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets in crown with the pieces of
tongue interspersed; you have previously made a stock with the bones of
the poulardes (No. 6), which reduce to a thin glaze, add a teaspoonful
of tarragon vinegar, and sauce round; fry two bunches of watercresses
very crisp, sprinkle a little salt over, dress them in the middle and
serve very hot.
No. 797. _Filets de Poularde à la Dumas._
Fillet two poulardes and divide the fillets as in the last; when three
parts cooked have ready the following puree: peel and cut in thin slices
a very fresh cucumber, which put in a stewpan, with a spoonful of
chopped eschalots and three pats of butter, pass gently over a slow fire
twenty minutes, keeping them stirred, then add half a tablespoonful of
flour and a pint of white sauce (No. 7); season with a little sugar and
salt, rub it through a tammie, previously boiling five minutes, put it
into another stewpan, with two yolks of eggs, stir quickly over the fire
till the yolk sets, then dip in the fillets and proceed as in the last,
dress the same and serve with a puree of cucumbers (No. 105), in which
you have put three spoonfuls of cream. These entrées should be served
immediately or they become soft.
Poulardes and capons may also be served in escalopes or blanquettes, as
directed for the turkey (Nos. 788 and 789), especially any fillets that
may be left neither larded or fried.
No. 798. _Blanc de Poularde aux concombres._
Roast a large poularde in vegetables (see No. 417), and when cold cut
the breast out carefully, and afterwards into thin slices, make a stock
with the bones as directed (No. 6), then peel two cucumbers, which cut
into pieces two inches in length, split each piece into four and take
out the seeds if any, trim them at the corners and put them into a
stewpan, with a spoonful of chopped eschalots and two pats of butter,
place them over a slow fire tossing them occasionally; when a little
tender pour off the butter and place in the pieces of poularde, then put
the stock from the bones in a stewpan, not more than a pint, and reduce
it to half, add a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and a little sugar, reduce
till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then take it off the fire, and
stir in a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream,
pass it through a tammie over the pieces of poularde and cucumbers, and
stand in the bain marie to get hot, serve plain in a deep entrée dish.
This dish is much thought of by great epicures, the eyes are certainly
not treated, but the palate is delighted. The same description of entrée
may be made the next day from the legs.
No. 799. _Cuisses de Poulardes à la Talleyrand de Périgord._
Bone the legs of two poulardes, leaving as much skin as possible on
them, then stuff and braise them as directed for poularde à la Marie
Stuart (No. 528), only place slices of truffles between the flesh and
the skin, then poach a square piece of forcemeat (No. 120) three inches
high, and smaller at the top than the bottom; when cold place it on a
cloth and cut it in the shape of a pyramid according to the size of your
dish, make it hot in some stock, take it out carefully and fix it in the
centre of your dish upon a piece of mashed potato, then take up the
legs, draw out the thread and place them on a cloth to drain; have four
very small silver skewers, or atelettes, place a nice truffle warmed in
stock on each, dress a leg upon each side of the pyramid upon a piece of
mashed potato, perpendicular, and run an atelette through each at the
top, fixing it to the forcemeat, they being nearly upright; then have
ready the following sauce: chop four small truffles and put them in a
stewpan, with half a glass of Madeira wine, reduce a minute, then add
the stock the legs were braised in (having previously passed it through
a cloth and taken off the whole of the fat), and twelve spoonfuls of
brown sauce (No. 1); reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon,
add a little sugar, sauce over and serve.
To simplify the above they may be cooked as described, and dressed plain
on the dish with the sauce over.
No. 800. _Cuisses de Poulardes au Soleil._
Bone the legs of two poulardes, leaving as much skin on as possible,
season them with a little pepper and salt inside, then have ready a
quarter of a pound of forcemeat (No. 120), chop two ounces of lean
cooked ham, mix it with the forcemeat, stuff the legs with it, sew them
up with a piece of packthread, then hold them a quarter of a minute over
a charcoal fire to make the skin firm, have some bacon cut very fine,
and with it lard a circle very neatly (forming rays), upon the top of
each, braise them as directed (No. 793), have also ready a pyramid of
forcemeat as in the last, when the legs are done prick a hole in the
centre of the larded circle, in which place a piece of truffle to
resemble a clove but six times the size of one, prepare four little
silver atelettes or skewers with a dressed cockscomb upon each, dish the
legs precisely as in the last, and serve with a purée of mushrooms (No.
54) round. This may also be simplified by serving the legs plain in the
dish with the puree under.
No. 801. _Cuisses de Poulardes à l’Ecaillère._
Bone and season four legs as above, have ready a quarter of a pound of
forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix ten well blanched oysters cut in
quarters, and the yolk of an egg, stuff the legs, sew them with
packthread, and braise them as before; prepare also a pyramid of
forcemeat as before, have four little atelettes and place a craw-fish
(No. 380) upon each, dress the legs with the atelettes as before, and
have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a
stewpan, with six spoonfuls of oyster liquor; reduce it to a proper
thickness, add half a gill of cream, mix well, and pass it through a
tammie into another stewpan, into which put two dozen blanched oysters,
season with a little cayenne pepper; warm altogether, sauce over and
serve.
No. 802. _Cuisses de Poulardes farcis aux petits légumes._
Bone and season four legs as before, stuff them with a quarter of a
pound of forcemeat (No. 120), and braise them as before, make a pyramid
of mashed potatoes in the centre of your dish and dress a leg on each
side; you have previously turned twenty young carrots and twenty young
turnips in the shape of small pears, and stewed with sufficient stock to
cover them, in which you put half a teaspoonful of sugar; when tender
dry them on a cloth, and stick them alternately in the potatoes above
and around the legs very tastefully; then put a pint of brown sauce (No.
1) with the stock you stewed your vegetables in, add a bunch of parsley
and half a bay-leaf, with six spoonfuls of consommé; reduce till it
adheres to the back of the spoon, take out the parsley and bay-leaf, add
a pat of butter, sauce over and serve.
No. 803. _Cuisses de Poulardes en fricassée à l’hôtelière._
Bone, stuff, and braise as before four legs of poulardes, make a pyramid
of mashed potatoes in the centre of your dish, draw out the packthread,
drain the legs on a cloth, dress them round, place a fine craw-fish on
the top, and have ready the following sauce: peel fifty small button
onions and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of white sauce and half a
pint of white stock, add a small bunch of parsley and half a bay-leaf;
let simmer till the onions are tender, keeping it skimmed, then take out
the parsley and bay-leaf, and with a colander spoon take out all the
onions, which deposit in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it
adheres to the back of the spoon, season with a little salt, sugar, and
lemon-juice, and finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with two
tablespoonfuls of cream, pass it through a tammie over the onions, warm
altogether without letting it boil, sauce over and serve.
No. 804. _Cuisses de Poulardes à la Bayonnaise._
Procure four legs of poulardes and take out the thigh-bone, leaving the
one in the leg, but cut off above the knuckle; then put four spoonfuls
of salad oil in a stewpan, season the legs with a little pepper and
salt, and lay them in, place the stewpan over a slow fire, cover it, and
let them remain till they get a yellowish colour, turn, and when three
parts done add thirty button onions cut in rings, set it over a sharp
fire to give a tinge to the onions, pour off as much oil as possible,
add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and half the quantity of white stock,
let simmer until it becomes rather thick, then take out the legs, which
dress flat on your dish; season the sauce a little more if required, add
the yolks of two eggs, stir them in quickly, sauce over, sprinkle
bread-crumbs upon them, place a small piece of butter on each leg, place
them in the oven a quarter of an hour, salamander a light brown and
serve.
No. 805. _Entrees of Spring Chickens, Pullets, Fowls, etc._
The number of entrées which may be made of this kind of poultry is
immense, but to abbreviate and avoid repetition I have classified the
three sorts together, so that the following entrées may be made from
either of the three sorts, but for many entrées the spring chickens are
preferable; the pullets are generally most used, especially for
fillets, for if the fillets are very small the least neglect would make
them very dry and uneatable, two large fillets are again awkward,
however tender, there being too much for one and not enough for two; but
I have made this observation merely to state that the same entrées may
be made from either where you happen to have them in the house.
No. 806. _Filets de Volaille à la Sévigné._
Take two nice plump pullets, fillet them as directed for the poularde
(No. 792), detach the filet mignon, or small fillet, from each, lay the
fillets on a board, dip your cotelette-bat in water, beat one of the
small fillets flat, then another and lay on the top of it, thus making
two large fillets of the four small, then with a thin knife detach the
skin from the large ones, melt two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, lay
in the fillets, which season lightly with white pepper, salt, and juice
of a lemon; stand it by till ready, then make some forcemeat with the
legs as directed (No. 122), from which make six flat long quenelles with
two tablespoons, and poach them in a little stock, place the fillets
over the fire, turning them when half done, but keeping them quite
white, (the two small fillets will be done before the others,) be sure
and not do them too much, they are done as soon as they feel firm to the
touch; then make a small border of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress
the fillets half way round and the quenelles the other, making them
stand as high as possible, sauce over with a thin purée of cucumbers
(No. 105); have ready a handful of green peas nicely boiled, which
sprinkle over and serve.
No. 807. _Filets de Volaille à la Néva._
Fillet and dress two fowls as above, likewise make the forcemeat and
six quenelles with the legs, when the quenelles are partly cold dip them
in a basin containing two eggs well beaten, take them out with a fork,
and sprinkle some chopped boiled Russian tongue over, place them in an
entrée-dish, cover and put them in a hot closet for an hour, cook the
fillets as before; make a small border of mashed potatoes on your dish,
dress the fillets and quenelles alternately to form a crown, and have
ready prepared the following sauce: break up all the bones of the fowls
and put into a stewpan with a glass of Madeira wine, an onion in slices,
one bay-leaf, two cloves, a little carrot and celery, place it over the
fire two minutes, then cover the bones with two quarts of white stock,
and let them simmer gently one hour, skim well and pass it through a
cloth into another stewpan, add six spoonfuls of good brown sauce (No.
1) and reduce it to a clear demi-glace, then add ten heads of white
mushrooms and ten pieces of boiled Russian tongue cut the size of
half-crown-pieces, place the garniture in the centre, sauce over and
serve; if you cannot obtain the Russian tongue for any of the above
purposes, the English pickled tongue may be used instead.
No. 808. _Filets de Volaille sauté au Suprême._
Fillet three fowls as before, making nine fillets from the three, sauté
the same, dress them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over
with a sauce suprême (No. 57) and serve; should you require a larger
entrée use four fowls instead of three.
No. 809. _Filets de Volatile aux truffes._
Fillet three fowls as before, sauté the same, then have a pint of the
sauce suprême (No. 57) in a stewpan, boil the sauce, and when boiling
throw in four preserved truffles in slices, add a tablespoonful of thick
cream, sauce over and serve.
No. 810. _Filets de Volaille aux truffes à la Béchamel._
Proceed with the fillets as before, put fifteen spoonfuls of sauce
béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, with eight of white stock, reduce till
rather thick, then add four truffles in slices, with a little salt and
sugar, when again boiling add two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream,
sauce over and serve.
No. 811. _Filets de Volaille aux champignons._
Prepare the fillets of three fowls as before, sauté and dress them as
usual; wash and turn half a pottle of mushrooms, pass the heads in a
stewpan with a little butter, salt, lemon-juice, and two tablespoonfuls
of water, boil three minutes, then in another stewpan have a pint of the
sauce suprême (No. 57), add the mushrooms with their stock, skim well,
boil altogether ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream
and a little sugar, sauce over and serve.
No. 812. _Filets de Volaille aux champignons à la Béchamel._
Proceed as before with the fillets, and likewise prepare half a pottle
of white mushrooms as in the last, but saving the trimmings, which put
in another stewpan with half the liquor from the mushrooms and a pint of
béchamel sauce (No. 7), reduce till rather thick, then pass it through a
tammie into another stewpan, add a little sugar and your mushrooms,
previously drained on a cloth, boil altogether two minutes, add half a
gill of boiling milk, sauce over and serve.
No. 813. _Filets de Poulet à l’Ambassadrice._
Roast three fowls in vegetables as directed in the Removes, cut out the
fillets and proceed exactly as for filets de poulardes à l’ambassadrice
(No. 792).
No. 814. _Filets de Poulet à la Strasbourgienne._
Roast two large fowls in vegetables, and when cold take out the fillets,
and with a thin knife divide each fillet in halves, to form two out of
one, then pound two ounces of foie gras de Strasbourg (a small tureen of
which can be purchased at any respectable Italian warehouse in London)
in a mortar, and rub it through a hair sieve, put a spoonful of chopped
onions in a stewpan with half a pat of butter, stir them a few minutes
over the fire, then add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce till
rather thick, add the foie gras, and when ready to boil take it off the
fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, leave it to get
cold, then spread it over the fillets the eighth of an inch in
thickness, have three eggs in a basin well-beaten, take each fillet on a
fork, dip them into the eggs, throw them in a dish of bread-crumbs, take
them out, pat them gently with a knife and repeat the operation, have
four pounds of hot lard in a stewpan, in which fry them a light brown
colour, dress in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, and serve
with fried water-cresses in the centre quite dry, with a little gravy
separate.
No. 815. _Filets de Volaille à la Duchesse._
Fillet three fowls, with the filets mignons making nine fillets, lard
four of the fillets neatly and braise them as you would a sweetbread,
then sauté the remainder of the fillets as usual; dress them alternately
on a border of mashed potatoes, two larded, and the other plain, and
have ready the following sauce: put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) in a
stewpan with six spoonfuls of white stock, a small bunch of parsley, and
the trimmings of some fresh mushrooms, boil till it becomes thick,
keeping it stirred, add half a pint of cream and pass it through a
tammie into another stewpan in which you have placed a dozen of dressed
cockscombs (No. 128), boil it up, then sauce over the plain fillets, put
the cockscombs in the centre, glaze the larded fillets lightly and
serve. If too thick, add a little stock to the sauce.
No. 816. _Epigramme de Filets de Volaille à la Josephine._
Prepare and cook the fillets of three fowls as above, cut also four
pieces from a cooked tongue the size and shape of your fillets, warm
them in stock, make a small border of mashed potatoes on your dish,
dress the larded fillets first, then the plain, then the tongue to form
a crown, sauce with a thin purée of green peas (No. 86) in the centre,
glaze the tongue and larded fillets, and serve.
No. 817. _Filets de Volaille aux concombres._
Fillet three fowls as usual, place them in a sauté-pan with butter,
season and put by until ready; have two fine cucumbers cut in pieces
three inches in length, split each piece in halves, take out the seeds
and peel so as not to leave a mark of green upon it, trim each piece as
near the size and shape of the fillets as possible, blanch them three
minutes in boiling water with salt, drain them on a sieve, put them in a
sauté-pan with a little sugar and some good white stock, set them on the
fire till the cucumber is tender and the stock has reduced to
demi-glace, then sauté your fillets, and dress upon a small border of
mashed potatoes alternately with a piece of the cucumber, add the
remainder of the cucumber and the demi-glace to a demi-purée of
cucumbers (No. 105) (but keep it quite white), with which sauce over and
serve. The cucumbers must be the best for this purpose and fresh, or you
will not be able to succeed.
No. 818. _Fricassée de Poulet à la Chevalière._
Fillet two fowls but leave the pinions of the wings attached to them,
lard and braise as directed for filets de poulardes à la Marie Stuart
(No. 793), cut off the legs nicely, and take out the thigh-bone, leaving
the leg-bone, but cutting it off above the knuckle; cut each back also
into two pieces and trim neatly, put the legs and pieces of back into a
stewpan, just cover them with one pint of water and two of stock, add a
little pepper, salt, and a small bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf,
with an onion in slices, and two cloves, set them over the fire, let
simmer twenty minutes, and skim well; then take out the pieces and put
them on a cloth to dry, trim neatly and place them into another stewpan
with two ounces of fresh butter, pass them five minutes over the fire,
then add one tablespoonful of flour, mix well; you have previously
passed the stock you boiled the fowl in through a cloth, pour it over
the fricassée, which keep stirred till boiling, then stand it at the
corner to simmer, skim well, it requires to be rather thin, let simmer
nearly an hour, then take out the pieces very carefully and place them
in another stewpan, put a spoonful of chopped mushrooms in the sauce,
reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a
tammie over the pieces of fowl, place it again on the fire, add twelve
cockscombs, twelve mushrooms, and twelve slices of truffles, let simmer
a minute, finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with three
tablespoonfuls of milk, take it off the fire immediately, put a little
mashed potatoes in the bottom of your dish, take out the four pieces of
back, place two in the centre of the dish and two others over to form a
square, stand the four legs upright around, drain the four fillets on a
cloth, (let them be a nice colour,) and dress them over; place the
garniture from the sauce on the top to form a pyramid, sauce over the
legs and round, glaze the fillets lightly and serve.
No. 819. _Fricassée de Poulet à l’Ancienne._
Cut two fowls into eight pieces each, that is, two legs, two wings, with
a piece of the fillet, two pieces of back, and two pieces of breast, put
them into a stewpan with two quarts of warm water, let them remain ten
minutes to disgorge, pour off all the water, then just cover them with
cold water, add a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, and one of salt,
parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, with an onion in slices, and two cloves,
simmer gently twenty minutes, skim well, take out the pieces, lay them
on a cloth, and trim them into neat pieces, then place them in a stewpan
with two ounces of butter, pass over the fire five minutes keeping them
moved; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, pass the stock the
pieces were boiled in through a cloth over, stir all together, then have
peeled forty button onions, throw them in and boil altogether nearly an
hour very gently (keeping it skimmed), till the sauce is sufficiently
thick, then finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a
gill of milk, stir it in quick and do not let it boil afterwards, put a
little mashed potatoes on the bottom of the dish, dress the pieces in
pyramid, commencing with the backs, and finishing with the breasts upon
the top, sauce all over and serve.
No. 820. _Petits Poulets Printaniers sauté aux truffes._
Procure two spring chickens, cut each one in halves, then again divide
the wings from the legs, thus making eight pieces of the two; cut off
the legs just above the knuckle, break the back-bones with a knife, put
half a pound of butter in a flat stewpan, let it melt, lay in the pieces
of chicken, let them remain over a slow fire until they become rather
brown, then turn them, let them remain until the other side is browned,
then pour off as much of the butter as possible, and add a pint of
brown sauce (No. 1) with ten spoonfuls of consommé, place it again over
the fire, and when boiling throw in four large truffles cut in thin
slices and a little sugar, keep moving them round gently till the sauce
adheres to the pieces; then take them out, dress as elevated as
possible, sauce over and serve. Poulet printanier sauté aux champignons,
and ditto aux olives, are done precisely the same, only substituting
twenty stoned olives, or thirty heads of mushrooms, for the truffles.
No. 821. _Poulet Printanier braisé à la Financière._
Roast a spring chicken very white in vegetables, as directed in the
Removes, when done draw out the string, place it in the centre of an
entrée-dish, and serve with a sauce financière (No. 50) over, they may
also be served with a sauce à la béchamel (No. 7) or any of the sauces
directed for the flancs.
No. 822. _Petits Poulets Printaniers sauce remoulade (chaude)._
Take out the back-bone of a good-sized chicken, cut the legs off at the
knuckles, break the leg-bone, then make an incision in the thigh and
draw the legs through to the inside; break the joints of the wings, and
beat the chicken rather flat, then put a piece of butter in a sauté-pan,
when melted lay in your chicken, pass it over a slow fire ten minutes,
turn it and place it again over till it becomes slightly coloured, then
lay it on a dish, season well with pepper and salt; egg all over, throw
it into bread-crumbs, cover all over, place it on a gridiron over a slow
fire and broil it a nice yellow colour; have ready the following sauce:
put six tablespoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan with four of
white stock, place it over the fire, and when boiling add six spoonfuls
of well-seasoned sauce remoulade (No. 38), stir it quickly over the fire
until hot, but do not let it boil, pour it in your dish, garnish the
edge with fillets of gherkins, lay the chicken over, which glaze lightly
and serve.
No. 823. _Poulet Printanier grillé aux champignons confit._
Prepare and broil a chicken exactly as in the last, put the juice from a
small bottle of pickled mushrooms, not too salt, in a stewpan with a
spoonful of chopped eschalots; reduce to half, then add twelve spoonfuls
of brown sauce (No. 1), season with a little cayenne pepper and sugar,
boil till rather thick, add the mushrooms from the bottle, when hot pour
the sauce in the dish, dress the fowl over, which glaze and serve.
Spring chickens broiled may also be served with sauce piquante (No. 27),
poivrade (No. 33), tomate (No. 37), fresh mushrooms (No. 52), or à la
maréchal (No. 532).
After having used the fillets of fowls or chickens, the legs may be
dressed in any of the methods given for legs of poulardes or capons, of
course their not being so large, they will not require so long to cook,
but there being six instead of four legs, they will require the same
quantity of sauce; they may also be served in any of the following ways.
No. 824. _Cuisses de Volaille truffés à la Périgord._
Cut off the six legs with as much of the skin as possible attached,
giving them a round shape, take out the thigh-bone, and cut off the leg
above the knuckle, then stuff the round part with a preparation of
truffles, as for poularde à la Marie Stuart (No. 528), showing the
truffles under the skin, sew them up, and braise as directed for that
article; when done put a thin oval border of mashed potatoes on your
dish, and dress the legs upon it, three on each side; place a small
paper frill upon each bone, and serve with a purée of truffles (No. 53)
in the centre and round; the purée must be rather thin.
No. 825. _Cuisses de Volaille à la Dino._
Prepare, stuff, and braise six legs as in the last, also have a fine
larded sweetbread (No. 671) which braise with the legs, glaze and
salamander of a nice gold colour, then have poached an oval piece of
forcemeat (No. 120), an inch and a half high, three inches long, and two
inches broad, place the sweetbread on the top, and dress the legs round,
three upon each side, place a fine cockscomb between each leg to hide
the forcemeat, fix them there by running little pegs made of stiff paste
through them, sauce over the legs with a sauce à l’Italienne (No. 31),
glaze the sweetbread, and serve very hot.
No. 826. _Cuisses de Volaille braisé aux concombres._
Prepare and bone six legs as above, season them with a little pepper,
salt, and very finely-chopped eschalots, then have ready half a pound of
forcemeat of fowl, with which stuff them, sew them round and braise as
before; when done dress them on your dish as described for cuisses de
volaille truffés à la Périgord (No. 824), sauce in the middle and round
with a garniture and sauce aux concombres (No. 103), and serve.
No. 827. _Cuisses de Volaille braisé aux pois._
Prepare, bone, stuff, and braise as the last, dress the same, and serve
with stewed peas round and in the centre. For stewed peas (see No.
1077.)
The legs braised as above may also be served with a sauce Palestine (No.
87) or à la jardiniere (No. 100.)
No. 828. _Cuisses de Volaille en fricassée à l’Ancienne_
See (No. 819) and proceed exactly the same; dress them on the dish, and
serve as above.
No. 829. _Cuisses de Volaille à la Marengo._
Cut off the legs neatly as before, taking out the thigh-bone, and
proceed as directed for petits poussins à la Marengo (see Flancs, No.
596), dress them pyramidically, sauce over, and serve. The whole of a
fowl may be dressed in this manner by cutting it up as directed for
poulet printanier (No. 820), and proceeding as described where above
directed.
No. 830. _Poulet à la Provençale._
Cut up a large fowl or a small poularde into eight pieces, that is, the
two legs, the two wings, with a piece of the fillet attached, two pieces
of breast and two pieces of back, put them into a sauté-pan with eight
spoonfuls of oil and six onions, peeled and cut in thin slices, season
with a little pepper and salt, place it over a slow fire, move and turn
them occasionally; when done, lay them on a cloth, to drain off all the
oil, put a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your dish, dress the
inferior pieces at the bottom, and the better one at the top, dressing
them as tastefully as possible, put the stewpan again on the fire, pour
off as much oil as possible, and mix a quarter of a tablespoonful of
flour with the onions, then twelve spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), and
eight of white stock, add a little scraped garlic the size of a pea, and
a little more sugar, take it off the fire, stir in the yolks of two
eggs, sauce over, egg and bread-crumb all over, set it in a very hot
oven ten minutes, salamander, and serve.
No. 831. _Turban de Quenelles de Volaille à la Russe._
Take the flesh of a nice delicate large fowl, and with it make some
forcemeat as directed (No. 122); when done make eight large quenelles
with two silver tablespoons, by filling one of them with forcemeat, dip
your knife in hot water, and smooth it over in a slight dome, then dip
the other spoon in hot water, and scoop the quenelle from the first
spoon with it, taking it into the hot spoon, from which it will easily
slip, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, and cover with good second
broth, place them over a quick fire, boil twenty minutes, and lay them
out on a cloth; cut also eight pieces from a boiled Russian tongue, the
size of the quenelles and the thickness of two five-shilling pieces
which warm in a little consommé; make a border of mashed potatoes, cut a
little piece off the bottom of each quenelle, and dress them alternately
with a piece of the tongue in crown; break the bones of the fowl up very
small, and put them in a stewpan with a glass of sherry, one minced
onion, one bay-leaf, a little thyme, and one clove; boil it two minutes,
then add a quart of white stock, reduce it to half, skim off all the
fat, and pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, add a pint of
white sauce (No. 7), and reduce it till it adheres to the back of the
spoon; finish with two tablespoonfuls of good thick cream, and a little
sugar, sauce over the quenelles, glaze the tongue, and serve with the
remainder of the sauce round and in the centre.
No. 832. _Quenelles de Volaille à l’Ecarlate._
Proceed precisely as above, using plain ox-tongue instead of the
Russian.
No. 833. _Quenelles de Volaille aux concombres._
Make eight quenelles as before, then procure a fine hothouse cucumber,
from which cut and trim eight pieces the size of your quenelles, put
them in a stewpan with a pat of butter and a little sugar, pass them
over a slow fire ten minutes, then add six spoonfuls of white broth, and
let them simmer very gently till quite done, but not too much so, or it
would be impossible to dress them; then poach the quenelles and lay them
on a cloth to drain with the cucumber, have ready a border of mashed
potatoes on your dish, cut a little piece off the bottom of each
quenelle, and dress them alternately with the cucumber in crown; have
ready the following sauce: add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7) to the
stock the cucumber was dressed in, reduce it till it adheres to the
spoon, add a tablespoonful of cream, sauce over, and serve.
No. 834. _Quenelles de Volaille en demi deuil._
Make twelve quenelles as before, poach them and lay them on a cloth,
have ready chopped two or three very black truffles, dip six of the
quenelles in some egg well-beaten, roll them in the chopped truffles,
place them in a dish, cover them up and stand them in the hot closet an
hour; place the other six in some fresh stock in a stewpan and keep hot
in the bain-marie, have ready a border of mashed potatoes on your dish,
cut a piece off the bottom of each of the quenelles, dress the six black
ones on one side and the white ones on the other to form a crown, put
ten spoonfuls of milk in a stewpan, boil it, and add a pint of white
sauce (No 7); reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add
two pats of butter and the juice of a lemon, sauce over the white
quenelles; you will probably have a few chopped truffles left, which
sprinkle over, and serve the remainder of the sauce in the centre.
No. 835. _Quenelles de Volaille à la York Minster._
Make and poach twelve quenelles as before, dip them in egg, and then
roll them in some finely chopped cooked lean York ham, place them on a
dish, cover and put them in the hot closet to dry; make a border of
mashed potatoes on your dish, and dress one red and one white quenelle
alternately, put twelve good spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7) in a
stewpan, with ten of boiled milk and a little sugar, let reduce till it
adheres to the spoon, add about forty strips of the cooked ham cut the
size of julienne-roots, sauce over and serve; finish the sauce with a
little cream.
No. 836. _Quenelles de Volaille à la Pair de France._
Make eight quenelles as before, and when laying in the sauté-pan make a
long incision in each, in which put a very white middle-sized dressed
cockscomb, cover them with white stock, and poach very gently for a
quarter of an hour; have also poached a solid piece of forcemeat four
inches in diameter and two and a half in height, with a long round
cutter cut four holes near the centre, large enough to stand in four
plovers’ eggs, which peel and warm in a little stock, and between the
four on the top place a fifth; cut a small piece off the bottom of each
quenelle, and stand them upright upon a little mashed potatoes against
the centre piece, the cockscombs facing outwards, sauce over with a very
white thin purée of artichokes (No. 90), and serve with a little chopped
chervil sprinkled over them.
No. 837. _Quenelles de Volaille à la Silêne._
Pass a tablespoonful of chopped onions in butter in a stewpan over a
sharp fire, and when they begin to colour add a teaspoonful of flour,
mix well in, then add half a pint of brown sauce, a piece of glaze the
size of a walnut, two teaspoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, and one of
chopped parsley, reduce five minutes, take it off the fire and stir in
the yolks of two eggs very quickly; you have previously poached ten
quenelles as before, and when cold dip them into the above sauce,
covering them all over, (previously cutting a small piece off the
bottom,) then dip them into some egg well-beaten, and then into
bread-crumbs, pat them a little with your knife and repeat the
operation; fry them a nice colour in a stewpan containing four pounds of
very hot lard, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, and
have ready the following sauce: put a pint of consommé free from salt in
a stewpan, with some bones of a raw or cooked fowl and a bunch of
parsley, boil it till reduced to half, squeeze in the juice of twelve
grapes, pass it through a tammie into another stewpan, reduce to a thin
glaze, add half a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and a little sugar,
pour it in the centre of your dish and serve very hot.
No. 838. _Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu._
Make sufficient of the above forcemeat, for twelve quenelles, lay a
little flour on your dresser, upon which place twelve pieces of the
forcemeat, each of the size of a quenelle, roll each a little with the
hand, then with a knife form them into pieces two inches long and nearly
an inch wide, place them in a buttered sauté-pan as you do them, and
poach exactly as for the quenelles, dress them in crown on a border of
mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce Périgueux (No. 55) and serve.
No. 839. _Boudins de Volaille à la Sully._
Make the same quantity of forcemeat as for the last, lay it on your
dresser and divide it into five pieces, flatten them with your knife,
having sufficient flour on the board to prevent them sticking; have a
salpicon as for croquettes (see next), place a little of it upon the
centre of each piece of forcemeat, roll them up, place them in a
buttered sauté-pan, cover with stock and poach them twenty minutes,
drain on a cloth, cut off the ends, and lay them on your dish, three at
the bottom and two across, sauce the same as the last and serve.
No. 840. _Croquettes de Volaille aux truffes._
Cut up a small braised fowl (or the remains of two or three left from a
previous dinner) into very small dice (or mince), cut also two large
truffles of the same size, put half a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots
into a stewpan with half an ounce of butter, pass them three minutes
over the fire, add a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, then
put in the fowl and truffles and half a pint of white sauce (No. 7)--or
more if not sufficiently moist, boil all together ten minutes, season
with a little white pepper, salt, and sugar, then stir in the yolks of
two eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire, turn it out on
a dish to cool; when cold take twelve pieces, each the size of a very
large walnut, roll them about an inch and a half in length, egg and
bread-crumb twice over and fry a good colour in hot lard, dress them in
crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce aux truffes
(No. 51) in the centre. The remainder of a previous dinner of any kind
of poultry may be used for croquettes.
No. 841. _Croquettes de Volaille au Jambon_
Are made in the same manner as in the last, only using cooked lean ham
instead of truffles, and serving a little blanquette de volaille au
jambon (see blanquette de dinde, No. 88) in the centre; croquettes de
volaille à l’écarlate are made the same, merely substituting some cooked
tongue and adding tongue to the blanquette; when made larger they are
called boudins, but the croquettes are preferable, being more crisp.
No. 842. _Rissolettes de Volaille à la Pompadour._
Make half a pound of forcemeat (No. 122), then have ready two buttered
sauté-pans, place half of the forcemeat in the centre of each, then
spread it over the bottom to the thickness of half-a-crown piece with a
spoon, occasionally dipping the spoon in white of egg; then cover them
over with stock and place them on a moderate fire, let them simmer for
five minutes, take off as much of the stock as possible, and leave them
in the sauté-pans to get half cold, take them out with a fish-slice,
place one of them on a dish, then have prepared a salpicon as for the
croquettes aux truffes (No. 840), cover the sheet of forcemeat with it a
quarter of an inch in thickness, then cover the other sheet over it,
press them lightly together; when cold cut it out in diamond shapes
(with a knife) about two inches long and one wide; then have ready the
following sauce: put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan
with a quarter of a pat of butter, pass them over the fire two minutes,
add a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a gill of milk, boil
altogether five minutes, keeping it stirred; then take it off the fire
and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir it over the fire
another half a minute, then take each piece upon a fork and dip it into
the sauce, cover it all over and place it upon a plate; proceed in like
manner till they are all done, put them by till quite cold, have ready
some good fritter-batter (No. 1285) made with milk, dip each rissolette
in with a fork and drop it into a stewpan of rather hot lard, fry five
minutes, dress them on a napkin, and serve with plenty of fried parsley
the moment they are done.
They may also be served with sauce (omitting the napkin) as follows: put
eight spoonfuls of white sauce into a stewpan, with six of cream, place
it over the fire a few minutes, add a little sugar and salt, sauce round
and serve.
No. 843. _Filets de Canetons aux petits pois._
Roast four ducklings in vegetables as directed in the Removes, take away
the vegetables just before they are done, to give the breasts a slight
colour; then cut out the fillets very neatly, dress them on a small
border of mashed potatoes with a thin crouton of fried bread between
each, put a pint and a half of young green peas (previously boiled) in a
stewpan, with the gravy that has run from the ducklings, two ounces of
fresh butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt, keep tossing
them over the fire till quite hot, then add a liaison of one yolk of egg
mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream, stir it in quickly, place them
in the centre of the dish in pyramid and serve.
No. 844. _Filets de Canetons à la chicorée._
Proceed with the ducklings precisely as above, fillet and dress the
same, serve with some endive prepared as directed (No. 119) in the
centre, but not too much nor too thick.
No. 845. _Filets de Canetons à la macédoine de lêgumes._
Roast and fillet four ducklings as before, then prepare a stand of
vegetables as directed for Chartreuse (No. 604), but not more than two
inches in height, fill it with stewed cabbage well pressed and almost
dry, and turn it out on your dish; when perfectly hot and the vegetables
sufficiently cooked, dress the fillets in crown on the top, have ready a
Macédoine de legume (No. 98), which dress in pyramid in the centre and
serve.
No. 846. _Filets de Canetons au jus d’orange._
Roast and fillet four ducklings as before, dress them in crown on a
border of mashed potatoes, and have ready the following sauce: put
twenty spoonfuls of brown sauce in a stewpan with ten of white stock,
place it over the fire to boil, with some bones from the breast of the
ducklings, boil to a demi-glace, keeping it skimmed, take out the bones
and pass the sauce through a tammie, then add the rind of an orange free
from pith, which you have previously cut in fillets and blanched five
minutes in boiling water, boil the sauce a few minutes, keeping it
stirred, and finish with the juice of half the orange, sauce over and
serve. This sauce requires to be quite transparent, but to have
consistence enough to adhere to the fillets; filets de canetons à la
bigarade are the same as above, merely substituting a Seville or real
bigarade for a sweet orange.
No. 847. _Filets de Canetons farcis._
Bone a duckling by placing it on your board and opening it at the
back-bone, which is first to be taken out, then lay it out flat: take
out the other bones singly, and cover the interior with forcemeat of
fowl (No. 122), filling up every cavity and making it perfectly level on
the top, put some thin slices of bacon at the bottom of a deep sauté-pan
with a bunch of parsley and a few onions in slices, lay the duckling
over and cover with white stock, lay a sheet of buttered paper over and
put it in a slow oven for one hour or more till tender, take it up, lay
it on a dish free from the bacon or onions, place another dish over and
press it till cold, then cut it into pieces the size and shape of the
other fillets above, warm them in a sauté-pan in a little good stock,
dress them in crown and serve in any of the preceding ways.
ENTRÉES OF GAME.
No. 848. _Filets de Lièvre sauce reforme._
Procure three good-sized but young hares, when skinned lay them on a
table and pass a knife down the back-bone, from the shoulder to the leg,
keeping it close to the ribs till you have extracted the fillet, when
done lay the fillets on a board the skin side downwards, and with a thin
knife cut off the whole of the skin, by pressing your hand upon the
fillet and drawing the knife along from the thin end to the thick; cut
each fillet in halves, beat them lightly, trim them of a nice shape, and
lard them neatly, then cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of
fat bacon, lay the fillets over, add three onions in slices with a bunch
of parsley, a blade of mace, and a couple of cloves, put in a little
broth, but not to cover them, place the lid on the stewpan and place
them in a moderate oven till tender, glaze and salamander a nice colour,
take them out, drain them a minute on a cloth, trim nicely, and dress
them in crown on a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce
reforme (No. 35) over, previously placing a thin piece of toasted bread
the same size as the fillets between each.
No. 849. _Filets de Lièvre piqué sauce poivrade._
Proceed exactly as in the last, dress them in crown without the pieces
of toast, and serve with a sauce poivrade (No. 32) over, dressed in the
same manner, they may be served with a sauce tomate (No. 37).
No. 850. _Filets de Lièvre piqué à la Bourguignote._
Proceed and dress your fillets exactly as before, and have ready the
following sauce: peel forty button onions, then put a little pounded
sugar in a stewpan, which place over the fire, when it melts and turns
yellowish put in a pat of butter and your onions, keep moving them over
a slow fire till they become rather brown, then add a pint of brown
sauce (No. 1) and six tablespoonfuls of consommé, place it at the corner
of the stove, and skim well, let simmer till the onions are done; then
take them out with a colander spoon and place them in another stewpan,
reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it
through a tammie over the onions, have twenty pieces of cooked streaky
bacon in diamonds the size of the onions, put them in the sauce, which
make hot, but not to boil, sauce over and serve.
No. 851. _Filets de Lièvre piqué, mariné en demi-glace._
Prepare and lard twelve pieces of fillets as usual, have ready a quart
of marinade, see filet de bœuf à la Bohemienne (No. 426), and put
them into it for three days; when wanted dry them on a cloth, butter a
sauté-pan, lay in the fillets, cover them with a sheet of buttered
paper, and stand them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, glaze and
salamander a light brown, and dress in crown on a border of mashed
potatoes, then pour as much of the butter off from the sauté-pan as
possible, and put eight spoonfuls of the marinade and a pint of brown
sauce (No. 1) into it, reduce over the fire, keeping it stirred till it
adheres to the back of the spoon, add a small piece of glaze and a
teaspoonful of currant jelly; sauce over and serve.
No. 852. _Escalopes de Lièvre à la Chasseur._
Fillet three hares as before and cut each fillet into four escalopes in
a slanting direction; beat them into an oval shape, put an ounce of
butter in a deep sauté-pan, with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots;
when the butter is melted lay in the escalopes, season them with a
little pepper and salt, and place them on a sharp fire; when half done
turn them over, be careful not to do them too much; when done dress in
crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, pour off the butter, then put a
glass of port wine in the sauté-pan, with fifteen spoonfuls of
demi-glace (No. 9), a little salt, and sugar, reduce it three minutes,
keeping it stirred, sauce over and serve.
No. 853. _Cotelettes de Lièvre à la Dauphine._
Fillet two hares as before, and out of each fillet cut three cotelettes
by cutting each fillet in halves, making one of the thin end and cutting
the thick into two equal slices, thus making twelve pieces of the four
fillets; beat them of an equal thickness, boil the rib-bones of one of
the hares till all the flesh comes off, and stick a bone in each piece
to imitate the bone of a cotelette, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in
oil a nice colour, but not too much done, dress in crown upon a border
of mashed potatoes, and sauce over with a sauce piquante (No. 27) in
which you have introduced a few chopped olives.
No. 854. _Turban de Lièvre à la Péronne._
Fillet one large hare and make six cotelettes out of the two fillets as
in the last, egg and bread-crumb them with a little chopped ham mixed
with the bread-crumbs, and fry in oil as before; you have previously
made forcemeat of the legs as described (No. 123), with which make six
large quenelles, poach, and dish them on a border of mashed potatoes
alternately with the cotelettes; have ready the following sauce: put a
teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with two of tarragon
vinegar and a piece of glaze half the size of a walnut, place over the
fire two minutes, add a pint of white sauce and eight spoonfuls of
white stock, reduce till rather thick, then add a little sugar and
twenty small pickled onions; sauce over the quenelles, glaze the
cotelettes and serve.
For boudins de lièvre, or quenelles, proceed the same as for boudins or
quenelles de volaille, only using forcemeat made from the legs of the
hare instead of the forcemeat of fowl; and for jugged hare and civet de
lièvre, see Kitchen at Home. They may be made from the legs after you
have taken the fillets for other purposes.
No. 855. _Filets de Lapereau à la Valencienne._
For entrées the tame rabbits are the best, and most preferable; but the
wild are very good and may be dressed in any of the following ways.
Take three or four young rabbits, skin and fillet them the same as the
hares; if the fillets are sufficiently large cut each one in halves
forming each piece in the shape of a small cotelette, beat them lightly
and of equal thickness, place them in a buttered sauté-pan, season with
a little white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon, place them
over a moderate fire and when half done turn them; they are done as soon
as they feel firm to the touch, and must be kept quite white, dress in
crown upon a border of mashed potatoes, put eighteen spoonfuls of white
sauce (No. 7) in the sauté-pan, with ten of white stock, stir over the
fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little pepper and
salt if required, finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream and the juice
of half a lemon; sauce over and serve.
No. 856. _Filets de Lapereau à l’Ecarlate._
Fillet three rabbits and so cut the fillets as to have nine pieces,
which cook as in the last, then cut nine slices of cooked ham of the
same size and shape as the fillets, and make them hot in a little
stock, dress them alternately with the fillets in crown upon a border of
mashed potatoes, then put a pint of white sauce (No. 7) and half a pint
of white stock in the sauté-pan, stir over the fire until nearly thick
enough, then add twenty heads of blanched mushrooms and a little sugar,
boil another minute, and finish with two tablespoonfuls of cream; sauce
over the fillets, glaze the tongue and serve.
No. 857. _Turban de Lapereau à la Douarière._
Fillet three good-sized rabbits and cut each fillet in halves, making
twelve pieces, six of which lard neatly; dress the six plain as before,
but the six larded ones must be braised like sweetbreads, and glazed,
and salamander a good colour, make a border of mashed potatoes on your
dish, upon which dress the fillets alternately, (one larded and one
plain,) in crown, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in the sauté-pan,
with half a pint of consommé, boil and skim, add half a glass of sherry,
and a little salt, pepper, and sugar, with two spoonfuls of tomata sauce
(No. 37) and twenty small quenelles from forcemeat made with the legs of
the rabbits, as described (No. 121); when hot, sauce over the plain
fillets, glaze the larded ones, put all the quenelles in the centre and
serve.
No. 858. _Epigramme de Filets de Lapereau._
Proceed precisely as in the last, only dressing the six plain fillets on
one side and the larded ones on the other instead of alternately, and
add twelve dressed cockscombs and twelve blanched mushrooms to the
garniture in the sauce; or they may be served with a blanquette made
from the legs of the rabbits, previously braised, proceeding as
described for blanquette de dinde (No. 791).
No. 859. _Filets de Lapereau à la Musulmane._
Lard twelve pieces of fillets from three or four rabbits, braise them as
you would sweetbreads; when done glaze and salamander of a light colour,
and dress in crown as high as possible; you have boiled half a pound of
good rice (No. 129), season it with a little salt, and mix four pats of
butter and a pinch of saffron with it, dress it in pyramid in the centre
of your dish, serve with a thin currie sauce (No. 46) round the fillets,
and some separate in a boat; serve very hot.
No. 860. _Cotelettes de Lapereau aux petites racines._
Fillet three rabbits, cut each fillet in halves and shape them in the
form of cotelettes, sticking a piece of the rib-bone of the rabbit in at
the thin end, egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in oil of a light brown
colour, dress in crown, glaze them lightly, and sauce as directed for
grenadins de veau (No. 692).
The legs and shoulders may be used for pies, curries, or fricassées,
which I give in my Kitchen at Home.
No. 861. _Lapereau sauté aux truffes._
Procure two nice young rabbits, which cut into twelve pieces, being two
legs, two shoulders, and two nice pieces from the back of each; put four
ounces of butter in a thick-bottomed sauté-pan; when melted lay in the
pieces and proceed as directed for petits poulets sauté aux truffes (No.
820). Lapereau sauté aux champignons is done the same, using mushrooms
instead of truffles, and lapereau sauté aux fines herbes, by using a
sauce fines herbes (No. 26) instead of the brown sauce, and omitting
both the truffles and mushrooms.
No. 862. _Lapereau à la Marengo._
Cut up two rabbits precisely as above, and proceed as directed for
poulet printanier à la Marengo (No. 829), dress them as high as possible
on the dish, pyramidically, sauce over and serve.
No. 863. _Rabbit Currie._
Cut up two rabbits as before, and cook them as for sauté aux truffes
(No. 861); when done and nicely browned pour off as much butter as
possible and pour a quart of currie sauce (No. 46) over, add twenty
button onions, previously stewed in a little broth, and twenty pieces of
cooked streaky bacon cut in small diamonds, stand them over a slow fire
twenty minutes, keeping it stirred occasionally; then build the pieces
up in your dish, sauce over and serve with rice (No. 129) in a separate
dish; should the sauce be too thick moisten it with a drop of broth, but
it requires to be thick enough to adhere to the rabbit.
No. 864. _Fricassée de Lapereau._
Cut up two young rabbits as before, and put them two hours in warm water
to disgorge, then put them in a stewpan just covered with clear water,
add two onions, one carrot, a bunch of parsley, two cloves, and a little
salt, boil half an hour at the corner of the stove, and skim well, take
out the pieces and pass the stock through a cloth, trim each piece of
rabbit nicely, and put it in another stewpan, with a quarter of a pound
of butter, pass them over the fire three minutes, then mix one ounce of
flour with them, pour the stock over and add fifty peeled button onions,
stir round gently until boiling, then draw it to the corner of the fire
and let simmer till the rabbit is very tender, then take them out, with
the onions, and put them in another stewpan, reduce the sauce till it
adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie over the
rabbit and onions, add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a
gill of cream, stir it in gently, place it over the fire but do not let
it boil, dress the rabbit in your dish and sauce over; mushrooms may be
added, and the onions ought to be kept as whole as possible.
No. 865. _Faisans au velouté de Gibier._
Roast two small young pheasants in vegetables as directed for the
Removes, let them get cold, then cut off neatly the two wings, two legs,
and two pieces from the breasts of each, which will make twelve very
nice pieces, take off the skin and place them in a stewpan, cover them
with a little stock and six spoonfuls of velouté (No. 6), put them in
the bain marie to warm gently, then put a quart of white sauce (No. 7)
in a stewpan, with half a pint of white stock and the backs and
trimmings of the pheasants cut up very small, reduce till it adheres
lightly to the back of the spoon, pour off the stock from the pieces of
pheasants, place a tammie over the stewpan, over which hold a colander,
pour the sauce through the colander, and then squeeze it through the
tammie, add a little sugar and a little cream, place the stewpan over
the fire but do not let its contents boil, dress the pieces of pheasants
in pyramid, placing a little mashed potatoes on the bottom of the dish
to keep them in their place; sauce over and serve.
No. 866. _Faisans à la purée de Gibier._
Cut up two small pheasants as above, dress them in pyramid on your dish
and serve with a sauce à la purée de gibier (No. 59) over, have about
fifty very small croutons of bread, diamond shape, and fried in oil,
which sprinkle over the last thing before serving.
No. 867. _Filets de Faisans à la Comte de Brabant._
Fillet two full-grown young pheasants as you would a fowl, lard and
braise them exactly the same, have half boiled in water sixty very fine
Brussels sprouts, drain them in a colander and put them in a stewpan
with a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon, season with a little pepper
and salt, add a pint of good stock and stew them over a moderate fire
till the stock is reduced to glaze, take out the sprouts, squeeze them
together between two dishes, and dress them as a perfect pyramid in the
centre of your dish, glaze and salamander the fillets nicely, and dress
a fillet on each side with a thin slice of the bacon at each corner,
place a quenelle at the top, and sauce round with the sauce fumée de
gibier (No. 60); serve immediately.
No. 868. _Filets de Faisans piqué aux légumes._
Lard and braise six fillets from three pheasants as above, have a fine
fresh cucumber, cut six pieces from it of the same size as the fillets,
which stew in a little stock in which you have put half a teaspoonful of
sugar; when tender but not too much done drain them on a cloth; make a
border of mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the fillets and
pieces of cucumber alternately in crown; have ready a small jardinière
sauce (No. 100) to which you have added a few blanched mushrooms, put
the vegetables in the centre with a piece of boiled (or a small)
cauliflower on the top, sauce round, glaze the fillets and serve.
No. 869. _Turban de Faisans en salmi._
Roast two pheasants in vegetables as directed in the Removes, cut them
into quarters, that is, the four breasts with the wings and the legs
with a piece of the back-bone, beat and trim them lightly, cut off the
pinion from the wings, and make the breasts and legs nearly of the same
shape, place them in a stewpan, cover them with a little stock, put the
lid on the stewpan and set in the bain marie to get hot, make a border
of forcemeat (see ris de veau à la Turque No. 673); when done place it
in the centre of your dish and dress the pieces in crown upon it, sauce
over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60) in which you have put four
large truffles in slices, or twenty button mushrooms; serve very hot.
No. 870. _Filets de Faisans à la Marquise._
Fillet four young pheasants, lard and braise four of the fillets, (as
for the filets aux légumes), egg the other four over with a paste-brush
and throw them into a plate in which you have chopped ham and
bread-crumbs mixed, cover them well, beat gently with a knife, and fry a
light brown in a little clarified butter, make a small border of mashed
potatoes upon your dish and dress the fillets alternately upon it; you
have previously prepared a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), rather more
than a pint, add twenty very white dressed cockscombs, when hot sauce
round and garniture in the centre; glaze your fillets and serve; a
spoonful of whipped cream would also be a great improvement added to the
sauce when finished.
No. 871. _Filets de Faisans à la Maintenon._
Prepare eight small or four large fillets divided into two separate
slices, put them in a sauté-pan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, place
them over a sharp fire, sauté them very underdone, and lay them on a
cloth, put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions in the sauté-pan, fry
them till turning yellow, then add a pint of white sauce (No. 7), two
spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, two of chopped parsley, a little grated
nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather thick, keeping it
stirred, lay in the fillets to warm, and leave them to get cold in the
sauce, have eight pieces of paper each cut in the shape of a heart, and
large enough to fold a fillet in, place a fillet in each with the sauce
equally divided amongst them, fold the papers over, twisting them up at
the edges, and place them on the gridiron to broil over a slow fire;
when done dress in crown on your dish leaving them in the papers, and
serve with a little plain gravy.
After having used the fillets of pheasants one day the legs may be used
the next, by roasting in vegetables and trimming them nicely; serve
either à la Brabant (No. 867), or en salmi (No. 869); but the legs of
large pheasants being so stringy will not make a very delicate entrée,
and it is much better to convert them into a sauce à la purée de gibier
(No. 59), soup, (No. 175), or forcemeat (No. 123).
No. 872. _Turban de Quenelles de Faisans._
Proceed exactly as for the quenelles de volaille, only using a forcemeat
made from the flesh of pheasants instead of fowl, dress them in crown,
and serve with a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), purée de gibier (No.
59), or sauce fumée de gibier, either of which may be garnished with
cockscombs, truffles, or mushrooms, as directed for the entrées of
pheasants.
Boudins de faisans are served the same way only shaping them as directed
for boudins de volaille à la Richelieu (No. 838), with which sauce they
may also be served.
No. 873. _Grouse à la Commodore._
Prepare two young but full-grown grouse, roast one of them underdone,
and make forcemeat (No. 123) of the other; when the roasted one is cold
cut it into eight pieces, that is, two wings, two legs, two pieces of
the back, and two pieces of the breast; cover each piece all over with
the forcemeat the sixth of an inch in thickness, egg each piece over and
place them in a buttered sauté-pan, just cover them with a little white
stock and boil gently ten minutes, lay them on a cloth to drain, put a
little mashed potatoes on the bottom of your dish, build the pieces in
pyramid, and have ready the following sauce: chop the bone of the grouse
very small and put them into a stewpan, with three pints of consommé
free from salt, an onion, and a little celery, with a bunch of parsley
and two cloves, boil gently half an hour, pass the stock through a cloth
into a stewpan, reduce to a very thin glaze, then mix a tablespoonful of
the best arrow-root with half a glassful of wine and a little cold
broth; pour it into the gravy, keeping it stirred, season a little more
if required, and when boiling sauce over and serve.
No. 874. _Filets de Grouse à la Paoli._
Roast four young grouse in vegetables as described for the Removes, take
out the breasts or fillets carefully, have ready a pound of forcemeat
(No. 123), with which cover each fillet nearly a quarter of an inch in
thickness all over, put them in a buttered sauté-pan, just covered with
a little white stock, boil gently ten minutes and lay them on a cloth;
have ready eight croutons or pieces of bread, the shape of the fillets
and the thickness of a crown-piece, fried in oil a light brown and very
crisp, dress the fillets and croutons alternately in crown upon a border
of mashed potatoes, glaze the croutons, sauce over with a demi-glace de
gibier (No. 61), sprinkle a few chopped olives over, and serve very hot.
No. 875. _Filets de Grouse à la Chancelière._
Fillet four young grouse, trim the fillets as directed for filet de
poularde (No. 792), butter a sauté-pan with two ounces of butter, lay in
your fillets, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice, add a
piece of glaze the size of a walnut, place them on the fire, sauté
underdone, pour off as much butter as possible, add a pint of demi-glace
(No. 9) and twenty small quenelles (No. 120); shake the sauté-pan round
over the fire two minutes, take out the fillets, which dress in crown on
a border of mashed potatoes; sauce over, put the fillets and quenelles
in the centre and serve.
No. 876. _Salmi de Grouse aux truffes._
Plain roast two grouse and cut each one up into eight neat pieces
(whilst hot, as for à la commodore), place them in a stewpan, cover them
with a thin brown sauce (No. 1), put the cover on the stewpan and place
it in the bain marie till the pieces are hot, in another stewpan have a
pint and a half of the sauce fumée de gibier, reduce it a third, then
add six middling-sized truffles cut in thin slices, and a little sugar;
have also six croutons or scippets of fried bread (as for à la Paoli),
dress the pieces of grouse in pyramid on your dish, with the croutons
well glazed resting upon them round the dish; sauce over and serve.
No. 877. _Grouse à la Ailsa._
Roast two grouse, cut them into quarters, that is, the wings with the
breasts, and the legs with the back-bone, pound the back and trimmings
well in a mortar and put them in a stewpan, with a pint of the sauce
fumée de gibier (No. 60), boil five minutes, then pass it through a hair
sieve into another stewpan, season with a little salt and sugar if
required, and add the yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire till it
becomes thickish but do not let it boil, then put in the pieces of
grouse; when half cold dress them upon a border of mashed potatoes,
sauce and sprinkle bread-crumbs over and place them in a moderate oven
half an hour; serve with a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) round.
No. 878. _Turban de Quenelles de Grouse à la Moderne._
Make and poach twelve quenelles from a forcemeat of grouse (see No.
123), poach them as for quenelles de volaille (No. 831), dress in crown
upon a border of mashed potatoes, sauce over with a sauce fumée de
gibier (No. 60), have ready the yolk of a hard-boiled egg chopped very
fine, which sprinkle over and serve.
Black cocks and gray hens being larger birds are generally used for
roasting, but the gray hen if well kept may be dressed in any of the
preceding ways; the ptarmigan also which makes its appearance in
February, (a Swedish bird as well as Scotch,) may be used for the same
purposes as grouse, the flavour is similar but not quite so good.
No. 879. _Perdreaux à la Silène._
Procure three young partridges, pluck and draw them and cut each bird in
halves, cut off each leg below the knuckle, break the part of the leg
above the knuckle, make an incision in the thigh and turn the leg
inside, break the back-bone (in three) the thigh-bone and the joint of
the wing in each, place the six halves in a sauté-pan, in which you have
put eight tablespoonfuls of oil, fry gently till three parts done, then
egg, bread-crumb, and place them on a gridiron over a slow fire, broil
them a good colour, and dress in crown upon your dish, then pour off the
oil from the sauté-pan, add two glasses of port wine, a spoonful of
chopped eschalots and one of chopped mushrooms, pass them over the fire
two minutes, add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1,) ten spoonfuls of
consommé, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce till rather
thick, finish with the juice of half a lemon, sauce round and serve,
slightly glazing the partridges.
No. 880. _Perdreaux grillés à la purée de Gibier._
Prepare and broil three partridges as in the last; you have previously
roasted an old one and made a purée of it as directed (No. 59), dress
the partridges in crown, glaze and serve with the purée round and in the
centre.
No. 881. _Perdreaux aux choux._
Procure two partridges trussed as for boiling, and lard them with fat
bacon lengthwise up the breast; have ready two white-heart savoy
cabbages, cut them in quarters and blanch them ten minutes in boiling
water; drain them quite dry on a cloth, season well with white pepper
and salt, cut off all the stalk and place them in a stewpan with half a
pound of streaky bacon; cover with a good white stock and place them
over a slow fire to stew until the stock has reduced to a thin glaze and
the cabbage is quite tender; you have roasted the two partridges, thrust
them quite hot into the cabbage, and place the stewpan containing them
in a bain marie to keep hot for one hour, or till ready for use, then
drain and press the cabbage in a colander, saving the stock that comes
from it; dress in a dome on your dish, take the skewers and strings from
the birds and dress them upon the top with slices of the bacon round,
broil three sausages, which cut in halves lengthwise and lay round at
the bottom, put a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) in a stewpan, with twelve
spoonfuls of stock from the cabbage, skim off all the fat, reduce to a
demi-glace, sauce over and serve.
No. 882. _Chartreuses de Perdreaux._
Proceed as directed in the Flancs (Nos. 604, 605, and 606), but using a
round mould not too large for the dish instead of oval moulds as there
directed.
No. 883. _Filets de Perdreaux aux petits légumes._
Roast six young partridges underdone and when nearly cold cut out the
breasts or fillets as neatly as possible, place them in a sauté-pan,
with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut and a little white stock,
warm them and reduce the stock to glaze, dress them in crown upon a
border of mashed potatoes, have prepared some carrots, turnips, and
button onions as for sauce à la jardinière (No. 100), pass them over the
fire in a little butter and sugar, cover them with a pint of the sauce
fumée de gibier (No. 60), six spoonfuls of consommé, and the glaze from
the sauté-pan; simmer at the corner of the stove till the vegetables are
quite done, skim it well, dress the vegetables in the centre, glaze the
fillets and serve.
No. 884. _Filets de Perdreaux à la Florentine._
Roast six partridges and fillet them as in the last, warm and dress them
precisely the same, then have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in
a stewpan, reduce it a third, then add twelve blanched mushrooms, twelve
dressed cockscombs, and twelve very small French preserved truffles; add
a little sugar, place the garniture in the centre, sauce over and serve.
No. 885. _Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Bacchante._
Procure six young partridges, fillet them, take a rib-bone and stick in
the small end of each fillet, beat them lightly with a thin knife, take
off the skin, season with a little pepper and salt, egg, bread-crumb,
and fry of a light brown colour in salad oil, but not too much done,
dress them in crown on a small border of mashed potatoes, have ready a
pint of the sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58), which you have made from
the legs and bones of the birds, which put in a stewpan, with a pint of
white stock (No. 138), reduce, and when it adheres to the back of the
spoon add fifty Smyrna raisins previously soaked in hot water two hours,
and the juice of ten large Portugal grapes, sauce in the centre, glaze
the cotelettes and serve. I have served this curious entrée with English
grapes whole in it, and very good it is, being refreshing to the palate,
but a person requires to be used to them before they can appreciate.
No. 886. _Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Douarière._
Prepare twelve cotelettes as above, fry them in oil and dress them the
same on your dish; have a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a
stewpan, reduce it one third, have forty small quenelles made from
forcemeat from the legs, (see No. 123), the quenelles must be made with
very small egg-spoons, as directed for the quenelles (No. 120); when
poached lay them on a cloth to drain, put them into the sauce; when hot
dress the quenelles in the centre; sauce over and serve.
No. 887. _Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Duc de Chartres._
Prepare and dress twelve cotelettes or fillets as before, dress them on
a dish and have ready the following sauce: have fifty scoops of turnips
the size of small marbles, put them in a stewpan, with an ounce of
butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, pass over the fire five minutes,
keeping them moved, then add a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61),
place it on the corner of the stove, let simmer, keeping it skimmed till
the turnips are done, finish with a little orange-juice, sauce in the
centre, glaze the cotelettes and serve.
No. 888. _Epigramme de Perdreaux à l’essence de Gibier._
Fillet six young partridges, lard six of the fillets, and braise them as
for filets de faisans à la Brabant (No. 867), place the other six in a
sauté-pan well buttered, season with a little pepper, salt, and
lemon-juice, sauté them gently over a moderate fire, make a thin border
of mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the six larded fillets first,
then the six plain ones to form a crown; glaze nicely, sauce over with a
demi-glace de gibier and serve (see Sauce, No. 61).
No. 889. _Epigramme de Perdreaux aux champignons._
Proceed exactly as in the last, merely adding thirty heads of blanched
mushrooms to the sauce and a little sugar.
No. 890. _Turban des Filets de Perdreaux à la Périgord._
Fillet three young partridges, make likewise half a pound of forcemeat
from the legs as directed (No. 123), from which make six quenelles with
two tablespoons (No. 831); sauté your fillets as in the last, plain,
then poach your quenelles, make a border of mashed potatoes on your
dish, and dress the fillets in crown, alternately with the quenelles,
put three parts of a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan,
reduce it a third, add four large French truffles chopped very fine,
with a little sugar, sauce over and serve.
No. 891. _Turban de Quenelles de Perdreaux à la Berri._
Make a pound of forcemeat from the flesh of one or two partridges as
directed (No. 123), and with two tablespoons make twelve large
quenelles, poach them in white stock (see quenelles de volaille, No.
831) and lay them on a clean cloth to drain a moment, make a border of
mashed potatoes on your dish, upon which dress the quenelles in crown,
then put a pint of the sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58) in a stewpan,
with half the quantity of white stock, reduce till it adheres to the
back of the spoon, then add a tablespoonful of whipped cream, sauce
over, sprinkle a few pistachios chopped very fine upon the top of each
quenelle and serve.
No. 892. _Filets de Canetons Sauvage à l’essence._
Wild ducks are best after frosty weather, the middling-sized ones are
the best for entrées.
Roast four young ones underdone well wrapped up in vegetables, when done
cut the fillets out neatly, and dress them in crown on a border of
mashed potatoes, have prepared the following sauce: put a spoonful of
chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a glass of port wine, the back-bones
of two of the ducks and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, boil two
minutes, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1) and ten spoonfuls of
consommé, simmer a few minutes, take out the bones, skim, reduce it fast
till it adheres to the back of the spoon, pass it through a tammie into
another stewpan, add a little cayenne pepper and lemon-juice, when hot
sauce over and serve.
No. 893. _Filets de Canetons Sauvage à la Syrienne._
Prepare six fillets from three wild ducks as in the last, have six
croutons of fried bread (or scippets), chop the livers of the ducks up
very fine, mix with a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a small
pat of butter, spread some upon each of the croutons, thicker in the
middle than at the sides; set them ten minutes in a warm oven and
salamander, dress them alternately with the fillets upon a border of
mashed potatoes in crown, sauce the same as in the last, with the
addition of twenty mild stoned olives just before serving.
No. 894. _Filets de Canetons Sauvage au jus d’orange._
Cook and fillet four wild ducks as in the last, dress upon your dish and
put them into the hot closet to keep hot with a cover over them; chop up
the legs and back very fine and put them in a stewpan with a glass of
sherry and a bunch of parsley, boil five minutes, then add a pint of
consommée, boil ten minutes, skim and pass through a cloth into another
stewpan, reduce to half glaze, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown
sauce (No. 1), a little sugar, and half the yellow rind of a large
orange, cut in fine strips and blanch five minutes, boil altogether a
few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful of juice from the orange, sauce
over and serve.
No. 895. _Filets de Canetons Sauvage au fumée de Gibier._
Cook and fillet four wild ducks as before, dress them in crown on your
dish and serve with a sauce fumée de gibier over, made from the legs and
bones of the ducks as described (No. 60).
No. 896. _Salmi de Canetons Sauvage aux truffes._
Proceed exactly as for salmi de grouse (No. 876), only cutting up two
wild ducks in neat pieces instead of the grouse, but the wild ducks
require to be more underdone.
No. 897. _Filets de Canetons Sauvage à la purée de Grouse._
Roast and fillet four wild ducks as before, dress them in crown, and
serve with a sauce à la purée de grouse (No. 59) over.
Widgeons are rather smaller than the wild ducks, but are dressed exactly
the same; care should be taken in roasting any kind of water-fowl that
it should be rather underdone, and if there is a necessity for warming
them in sauce when cut up for entrées, care should be taken that they
do not boil in it, for it would give the sauce a greasy appearance, and
cause the fillets to eat tough and altogether very unpalatable.
No. 898. _Turban de Filets de Sarcelles à la Moderne._
Teal are much smaller than either of the two last, but of the same
species, though more delicate and excellent for entrées.
Roast eight teal twenty minutes in vegetables, cut out the fillets,
which must be underdone with the gravy in them, have ready half a pound
of game forcemeat (No 123), when cold cover each of the fillets very
thinly with it, dress them in crown upon a border of mashed potatoes,
set them in a very hot oven for ten minutes till the forcemeat is
cooked, sauce over with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60) and serve.
No. 899. _Turban de Sarcelles à la Toulouse._
Roast and fillet eight teal as in the last, dress them on a border of
mashed potatoes, then put eight spoonfuls of game sauce (No. 60), eight
of consommé, and eight of tomata sauce (No. 37) in a stewpan, boil them
together a few minutes, add twenty pickled mushrooms, sauce over and
serve.
No. 900. _Sarcelles au jus d’orange._
Roast six teal as before, cut them in halves, chop off the pinions of
the wings, beat them a little and dress in crown, sauce over with au jus
d’orange (No. 17) and serve.
Teal may be dressed in any way as directed for the wild ducks.
No. 901. _Sarcelles à la Batelière._
Bone four teal by cutting the skin through down the back, separating the
skin on each side of it until you have cleared it, lay the bird open,
take out the back-bone, and with a knife you will find no difficulty in
taking out all the rest; half fill them with forcemeat (No. 120) and sew
them up with packthread, then put them into a stewpan with three glasses
of sherry, a pint of white stock, half a pound of lean uncooked ham, two
onions, one head of celery, a bunch of parsley, a little carrot, turnip,
two cloves, and a blade of mace; put the cover on the stewpan and place
it in a moderate oven for an hour, try with a larding-needle, and if
tender they are done; lay them on a cloth to drain, make three croutons
of bread each in the shape of a cockscomb, but a great deal thicker and
larger, put three of the teal at the bottom of the dish, and stand a
crouton (nicely fried) between each to form six points, place the
remaining teal upon the top, and have ready the following sauce: strain
the stock the teal was cooked in through a cloth into another stewpan,
skim off all the fat, add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), reduce it
till it adheres to the back of the spoon, add a little cream sauce over
and serve.
No. 902. _Sarcelles à la macédoine de légumes._
Roast four teal in vegetables, cut them in halves, dress in crown on a
border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a white sauce macédoine de
légumes (No. 98) in the centre.
No. 903. _Sarcelles à la purée de champignons._
Proceed as in the last, but serve with a purée of mushrooms (No. 54) in
the centre.
No. 904. _Filets de Bécasses à la Lucullus._
Roast six woodcocks underdone, take the fillets out carefully, have
ready half a pound of very white forcemeat of chicken (No. 122), cover
each fillet all over about the eighth of an inch in thickness, egg them
over when done and place them in a buttered sauté-pan, cover them with
white stock, and simmer ten minutes, drain them on a cloth and dress in
crown upon a small border of toasted bread; you have previously pounded
all the flesh from the legs with the trail in a mortar, pass through a
sieve, and put it in a stewpan with ten spoonfuls of game sauce (No. 60)
made from the bones, boil until thick, keeping it stirred, then take it
off the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir
another minute over the fire to thicken, and dress in the middle of the
dish as high as possible, sauce over with a demi-glace de gibier (No.
61) and serve.
No. 905. _Filets de Bécasses à la Talleyrand._
Roast four woodcocks, fillet them, cover each fillet with forcemeat as
in the last, poach them the same, have eight croutons of bread the same
size as the fillets, and the thickness of a five-shilling-piece, pound
the trails from the woodcocks in a mortar, season them lightly, and mix
them with the yolk of one egg, spread it upon the croutons (which you
have previously fried), give them the shape of a dome, put them ten
minutes in the oven, salamander a light colour, make a thin border of
mashed potatoes on your dish, dress the fillets half way round, then the
croutons, put a pint of game sauce (No. 60) in a stewpan with six
spoonfuls of consommé, reduce till it adheres to the back of the spoon,
then add six middling-sized truffles chopped very fine with a little
sugar, sauce over and serve.
No. 906. _Filets de Bécasses à l’Impérial._
Roast five woodcocks, fillet as usual, surround each fillet with the
forcemeat, and poach as before, dress them on a small border of mashed
potatoes, and place a fine dressed cockscomb warmed in a little stock
between each, sauce over with a sauce velouté de gibier (No. 58) and
serve.
No. 907. _Turban de Bécasses aux champignons._
Roast five woodcocks, cut them in halves, and dress them in crown,
breasts upwards, upon a border of mashed potatoes; put a pint of
demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) in a stewpan, reduce it, then add forty
very fine blanched mushrooms, with two spoonfuls of thin liquor, boil
two minutes, then add a little salt, sugar, the juice of half a lemon,
and two pats of butter, take it off the fire, shake it round till the
butter is melted, sauce over and serve.
No. 908. _Salmi de Bécasses._
Roast three woodcocks underdone, and when cold cut them into neat
pieces, that is, two wings, two legs, and the breasts; chop the trails
from the interior very fine and spread them upon six croutons of fried
bread in the shape of fillets, place them in the oven three minutes, and
salamander lightly; make a game sauce with the bones as directed (No.
60), when you have reduced it to a good consistency, put in the pieces
of woodcocks, cover the stewpan, stand it in the bain marie till they
are quite hot, then build them up as high as possible on your dish,
dress the croutons round, sauce over and serve; truffles or mushrooms
may be added to the sauce.
No. 909. _Salmi de Bécasses à la Joinville._
Roast two woodcocks underdone, cut them up and proceed exactly as in
the last, make ten quenelles de gibier (No. 123), poach them, lay them
on a cloth to drain, egg over with a paste-brush, and roll them in
chopped ham and truffles, place them in a dish, which put in the hot
closet with the cover over for half an hour, then put a border of mashed
potatoes upon your dish, dress the quenelles in crown with the woodcocks
in the centre and over, as elevated as possible, sauce over with a
demi-glace de gibier, dress the croutons round and serve.
No. 910. _Entrée de Bécasses à la Comtesse._
Roast your woodcocks in vegetables, separate the breasts from the legs,
take off the flesh from the legs and pound it in a mortar with the
trails, make a purée as for the filets à la Lucullus, then have ready a
croustade of bread two inches high, rather oval, and fluted round, not
too large for the dish, make an incision round the top a quarter of an
inch from the edge, fry a nice colour, scoop out the top, place it on
your dish, pour in the purée; you have kept the breasts hot in a stewpan
in the bain marie, dress them over the purée with the points to meet in
the centre, place two fine dressed cockscombs warmed in the sauce
between each breast, and a quenelle upon the top, sauce over with a
demi-glace de gibier (No. 61) and serve.
No. 911. _Bécasses à la Périgord._
Roast three woodcocks nicely before a sharp fire, put a piece of toasted
bread under them whilst roasting to catch the trails, when done cut the
toast into three pieces, diamond shapes, place them in your dish and
place the woodcocks upon them, their tails to meet in the centre of the
dish, sauce over as for filets à la Talleyrand (No. 905) and serve.
No. 912. _Bécasses à l’essence._
Roast three woodcocks as in the last, dish them the same, and serve with
a sauce à l’essence made from some bones or remains of woodcock, as
directed (No. 60).
No. 913. _Bécasses à la Financière._
Proceed precisely as in the last, but adding ten blanched mushrooms, ten
fine dressed cockscombs, ten small quenelles (No. 123) of game, and as
many slices of truffles to the sauce.
No. 914. _Bécasses à la purée._
Roast three woodcocks as before, having previously roasted one, with
which make a purée as directed (No. 59), sauce round and serve.
915. _Snipes or Bécassines._
Snipes may be dressed in any way as directed for the woodcocks, but
being much smaller you cut them in halves instead of filleting them,
dress round to form a crown, only you require more of them.
No. 916. _Plovers._
Plovers, like other game, require to be kept a short time before they
are cooked; they are dressed similar to woodcocks, although not quite so
recherché; when well dressed they are very delicious.
No. 917. _Filets de Pluviers à la Marie Antoinette._
Roast eight plovers well wrapped up in thin slices of bacon, and tied up
in paper; when done leave them to get cold in the bacon, then cut out
the fillets as for woodcocks, and stick the pilon of the leg at the
point of each fillet; let a piece of the bacon remain over each fillet,
egg and bread-crumb twice over, and fry them a nice colour in salad oil;
chop up the legs, bones, and trimmings of the birds, and put them in a
stewpan with a glass of sherry, an onion in slices, and a little raw ham
minced; place it on the fire a couple of minutes, then add a pint and a
half of good white stock; place it again on the fire, and let it simmer
half an hour, skim, and pass it through a cloth into another stewpan,
reduce to a thin glaze, then mix a little arrow-root with three
spoonfuls of white stock and the juice of half a lemon, pour it into the
sauce, keeping it stirred till boiling, dress the fillets in crown on a
circle of mashed potatoes, sauce round, and serve very hot and crisp.
No. 918. _Filets de Pluviers aux truffes._
Proceed with the fillets exactly as in the last, make ten croutons of
bread, upon which put the trail, see woodcocks (No. 905), dress the
fillets round alternately with the croutons, put a pint and a half of
demi-glace de gibier (No. 61), and a gill of consommé in a stewpan,
reduce to half, then add six middling-sized truffles in slices, and a
little sugar, sauce over and serve.
No. 919. _Filets de Pluviers aux champignons._
Proceed exactly as in the last, only using mushrooms instead of
truffles.
No. 920. _Fillets de Pluviers à la Régence._
Roast three plovers in bacon as before, and when done have three larded
lambs’ sweetbreads nicely cooked, dress them alternately on a border of
mashed potatoes in a ring, put half a pint of demi-glace de gibier (No.
61) in a stewpan, boil it a minute, then add twelve stoned French
olives, season with a little sugar, sauce in the centre, glaze the
sweetbreads, and serve.
No. 921. _Pâté chaud des Pluviers._
Make a paste as directed for pâté chaud, see Flancs (No. 618), build up
a crust with the hand or in a small round mould to match your dish, then
fillet twelve plovers, season them with a little pepper, salt, and
chopped eschalots, cut some thin slices of fat bacon, with which line
the interior of your crust, which has stood a good hour after building
to get firm, lay the fillets round, placing a thin slice of fat bacon
between each; the pâté must not be more than three inches in height when
filled; add four spoonfuls of game sauce, and a few raw mushrooms, cover
with a thin sheet of the paste, and ornament the exterior to your fancy,
forming a lid with a round piece of puff paste (No. 1132); bake it an
hour and a half in a moderate oven, take off the lid and as much fat as
possible from the top, add half a pint of game sauce (No. 60) quite hot,
and serve either with or without the lid.
No. 922. _Quails._
The climate of this country is far from being advantageous for these
delicate birds, which migrate even from France at the end of the autumn;
the quails in this country must be fed in confinement to fatten, before
they are fit to be eaten, which destroys much of that beautiful flavour
they possess in France, where they feed in their native vineyards.
No. 923. _Cailles en macédoine de légumes aux feuilles de vignes._
Truss eight quails, fold each one up in a vine-leaf, and then in a thin
slice of bacon, run a skewer through them sideways, which tie upon the
spit; then have some vegetables of all kinds, cut up in thin slices,
which moisten with a little oil, have then some sheets of paper, upon
which lay the vegetables, lay the quails on the spit over them, breasts
downwards, cover well with the vegetables, fold the paper round, and tie
them up; roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes before a sharp fire;
you have prepared a border of vegetables as for Chartreuse (No. 604),
but not to stand more than two inches in height; fill it with stewed
cabbage and boiled French beans, turn it out on your dish, and dress the
quails upon it, their tails towards the centre and their breasts
outside; make a pyramid of boiled green peas on the top, and serve a
white jardinière sauce (No. 98) round.
No. 924. _Cailles aux petits pois._
Proceed exactly as above with the quails, but make the stand entirely of
green peas nicely boiled; have ready a pint of stewed peas (No. 1077)
with which you have put the quails a few minutes, fill the centre with
them, dress the quails round as above, and pour the remainder of the
peas in the dish.
No. 925. _Turban des Cailles à la Financière._
Roast eight quails in vegetables, but without the vine-leaf and bacon,
make a border of forcemeat as for ris de veau à la Turque (No. 673),
stand it in your dish, then make a ragout financière (No. 50), but using
game sauce instead of brown sauce; put your quails five minutes in the
sauce, then dress them round on the border of forcemeat; garniture in
the centre, sauce over, and serve.
No. 926. _Turban des Cailles aux concombres._
Roast seven quails as before, cut each one in halves lengthwise, have
also fourteen pieces of cucumbers the same size, stewed as No. 103,
dress them alternately with the halves of quails upon a border of mashed
potatoes, and serve with a sauce à la purée de concombres (No. 105) in
the centre.
No. 927. _Turban de Cailles à la purée de truffes._
Proceed as above, using ten quails instead of seven, and serving with a
purée de truffes (No. 53), omit the cucumbers.
No. 928. _Quails for Vol-au-vents, or Pâté chaud._
Roast and cut them in halves if for vol-au-vents, put them in a white
financière sauce (No. 50), but if for pâtés chauds, in a brown
financière twenty minutes before serving.
No. 929. _Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Parisienne._
Procure six large pigeons, fillet and form them into cotelettes (see
cotelettes de perdreaux, No. 885), stuff with a little forcemeat of
fowl, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry a light yellow colour in oil;
fry also twelve croutons of bread the size and shape of the cotelettes,
and dress them alternately upon a border of mashed potatoes, to form a
crown; sauce with a purée de concombres (No. 105) made brown instead of
white, and serve, glazing the cotelettes lightly.
No. 930. _Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Financière._
Proceed as in the last, only serving with a ragout à la financière (No.
50) instead of the purée.
No. 931. _Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux aux pois verts._
Proceed as before, and serve with a pint of green peas, prepared as for
cotelettes de mouton aux pois (No. 713). They may also be served with a
sauce aux truffes (No. 51), Italienne (No. 30), jardinière (No. 100), or
sauce piquante (No. 27).
No. 932. _Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Suliman._
Prepare the cotelettes as usual, season them well with chopped parsley,
do. eschalots, and a little pepper and salt; procure a pig’s caul, cut
into twelve pieces, in each of which fold a cotelette, place them in a
sauté-pan, and fry them in oil a nice colour, but rather underdone;
dress on a border of plain boiled rice, which you have made hot and
seasoned with a little salt and pepper, and moistened with a piece of
butter; serve very hot with a sauce à l’Indienne (No. 45) in the centre.
No. 933. _Turban of Larks à la Parisienne._
Larks when in good order and fat are excellent for entrées. Bone
eighteen fine ones with a penknife, lay a little forcemeat of game (No.
123), in the interior of each, with a few fillets of truffles, sew them
with packthread, giving them their first shape as near as possible;
cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, then lay in
the larks, which again cover with sheets of fat bacon; add a few
vegetables of each sort in slices, with a bunch of parsley, two glasses
of Madeira wine, and half a pint of consommé; cover the stewpan, and
place it in a moderate oven; when the birds feel tender they are done;
take them out, and lay them on a dish; lay another dish over, and press
them lightly till cold; pass the stock they were cooked in through a
cloth into a stewpan, and skim off all the fat; use it with the bones of
the larks to make a sauce (No. 60); when the sauce is of a proper
consistence, add twenty small quenelles (No. 120), put it in the
bain-marie to keep hot, pull all the packthread from the larks, and put
them in a stewpan with a little consommé, warm them gently, have ready a
border of forcemeat as for turban de cailles (No. 925), dress the larks
in crown upon it, garniture in the centre, sauce over, and serve.
No. 934. _Turban of Larks aux fines herbes._
Proceed with the larks as in the last, dress them on a border of
forcemeat, and make the sauce the same; put a tablespoonful of chopped
onions in a stewpan, with half a one of oil, fry a light yellow colour,
keeping them stirred; add one of parsley and two of chopped mushrooms,
with which mix a quarter of one of flour, and twelve of the sauce; stir
it over the fire twenty minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and
nutmeg, take it off the fire, and stir in the yolk of an egg very
quickly; pour all over the larks, let them get cold, egg and bread-crumb
over, and place them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, salamander a
nice colour and sauce as in the last, omitting the quenelles, and
pouring round instead of over; serve very hot.
No. 935. _Turban of Larks aux quenelles._
Prepare eight larks as for à la Parisienne; have also prepared eight
quenelles de gibier (No. 123) of the same size as the larks, dress them
alternately upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve with a sauce au
fumée de gibier (No. 60) over.
No. 936. _Pâté Chaud de Mauviettes._
Prepare a crust as for the pâté chaud de pluviers, bone twenty-four
larks, stuff them with forcemeat, but do not sew them, fold a slice of
fat bacon round each, fill your pâté, and proceed exactly as in No. 623.
No. 937. _Pâté Chaud de Mauviettes gratiné._
Proceed as above, but when you have filled the pâté have half a pound of
forcemeat (No. 120), with which mix some chopped eschalots, do.
parsley, and do. mushrooms; cover all over the larks, and again cover
that with slices of fat bacon; bake an hour and a half; when done take
off the lid, and the fat bacon, salamander the forcemeat a nice brown,
and serve with some clear strong consommé (in which you have boiled the
bones of the larks reduced to a demi-glaze), poured over.
No. 938. _Vol-au-vent de Mauviettes._
Bone twelve or eighteen larks according to the size of your vol-au-vent,
which you have previously made (see No. 1137), stuff them lightly, place
a leg-bone in the breast of each, and form them in the shape of a pear;
place them in a stewpan covered with slices of fat bacon, add a glass of
sherry, with a little stock and a few vegetables, stew them gently one
hour, then in another stewpan have a pint of sauce velouté de gibier
made as directed (No. 58) from the bones of the larks; take the larks
out of the braise, drain them on a cloth, then put them into the sauce,
with ten blanched mushrooms; when hot fill the vol-au-vent, and serve
directly.
OF THE ROASTS FOR SECOND COURSE.
In London the poultry and game are sent in so nicely prepared for
cooking that any remark upon the method of killing, plucking, and
drawing them would appear almost unnecessary, but remembering the manner
that I have seen poultry and game mutilated in some parts of the
country, I have been induced to give the following simple directions.
The best way of killing poultry is to take the bird by the neck, placing
the thumb of the right hand just at the back of the head, closing the
head in your hand, your left hand holding the bird, then press your
thumb down hard and pull the head and neck contrariwise, the neck will
break instantaneously, and the bird will be quite dead in a few seconds,
when hang it a short time by the legs for the blood to flow into the
head, which renders the flesh much whiter. In France we usually kill
them by cutting the throat close to the head; both methods are good with
regard to the whiteness of the flesh, but I prefer the English method,
not being so barbarous.
To pluck either game or poultry have the bird upon a board with its head
towards you, and pull the feathers away from you, which is the direction
they lay in; many persons pull out the feathers in a contrary direction,
by which means they are likely to tear the skin to pieces, which would
very much disfigure the bird for the table.
To draw poultry after it is well plucked, cut a long incision at the
back of the neck, cut the neck bone off close to the body of the bird,
but leave the skin a good length over, then take out the thin skin from
under the outer with the crop, cut an incision under the tail just large
enough for the gizzard to pass through, no larger, then put your finger
into the bird at the breast and detach all the intestines, squeeze the
body of the bird and force out the whole from the incision at the tail;
it is then ready for trussing, the method of doing which will be given
in the various receipts throughout this series. The above method of
drawing poultry is equally applicable to game.
To make a gravy for roasts well butter the bottom of a convenient-sized
stewpan, upon which lay three onions in thick slices, over which lay a
few slices of lean bacon and three pounds of lean beef; place it over a
good fire and add two cloves and six peppercorns, with a few sprigs of
parsley; when the onions begin to brown stir the meat round with a
wooden spoon, keeping the onions still at the bottom, stir occasionally
until the onions are well browned but not burnt, then fill up with two
quarts of water and half an ounce of salt; when boiling place it at the
corner of the fire, skim and let it simmer an hour, skim again, pass it
through a cloth into a basin and use when required.
The simplicity of roasting is so generally known by all classes of cooks
that but very little attention is often paid to it; the simplicity of
the arrangement for roasting being such as with many to leave it to
attend to itself; but I shall here in a very few words show my readers
the facility of roasting well and with little trouble, which I consider
of the greatest importance, especially in a dinner-party where, after
the entrées have been well degusted, nothing refreshes the palate or
disposes it better for the second course than a fillet or cut from the
fillet of a well-roasted capon, chicken, or some description of game,
but if badly roasted it would lose its effect.
In roasting much depends upon the fire which requires to be solid and
to throw out a great heat, as it is always easy to keep anything a good
distance from it, but a bad fire would be the destruction of anything
placed before it, for if you had a couple of good fowls or a brace of
birds, and were to put one down before a slow fire and the other before
a brisk, you would be so astonished at the difference in flavour that
did you not know different you would declare that one was of an inferior
quality; I am also very much against the improper manner of basting,
which would give any birds or poultry the appearance of having been
first roasted and afterwards stewed; I have never during the last six
years suffered any bird to be basted in my kitchen with the exception of
rubbing a piece of butter over the breast of poultry or game as soon as
the skin becomes set; any kind of game or poultry is done when you
perceive a great smoke arising from it, and if not taken up immediately
you lose the flavour and the bird its appearance, for instead of going
to table nice and plump it will present a mean and shrivelled object,
loudly bespeaking the cook’s inattention, unless it has been kept in a
screen or hot closet, by the party having kept the dinner waiting.
By following the above simple method great benefit will be derived in
this simple branch of the art, but the most universally useful, for I
think we may say without hesitation that near two thirds of our animal
and volatile food is daily roasted, which has made me so desirous of
impressing the necessity of attention, which is all that is required to
roast well.
No. 939. _Roast Turkey au Cresson._
For second course a turkey should be very small and well trussed, the
breast thrown out, the sinews of the legs cut and the feet chopped off,
run a skewer through the pinion of the right wing, passing it beneath
the thigh-bones and through the pinion of the left wing, run your spit
through the body, passing it between the skewer and the back-bone, and
tie the legs upon a rest (made by folding a thick piece of carrot about
two inches long and one broad in buttered paper) upon the spit to keep
the legs upon a level with the thighs; have a good clear fire, put down
the turkey at a short distance from it, five minutes after it is down
rub it over the breast a minute with a piece of butter which being hard
and cold you have pressed into a large wooden spoon, (made with a very
long handle, by which means you can rub it over the bird whilst turning
without approaching too near the fire,) about a quarter of a pound would
be sufficient for six or eight; then place it a little further back,
(according to the heat and size of your fire,) the butter will form a
froth over it; if the skin should blister you must put it still further
from the fire, keep it of a nice gold colour, and when done serve with
gravy in the dish and garnish with nice fresh water-cresses.
A turkey weighing five pounds will require about three quarters of an
hour to roast, and so on in proportion, but one of that size is quite
large enough for a roast second course; but if before a small fire an
hour and a quarter, or if a larger turkey an hour and twenty minutes.
No. 940. _Turkey Barded._
Truss a turkey as described in the last, have a square piece of fat
bacon the eighth of an inch in thickness and large enough to cover the
breast, upon which tie it with packthread; roast and serve as in the
last, taking away the packthread but leaving the bacon; it will require
a little longer to roast as the bacon prevents the fillets from being
done so soon.
No. 941. _Turkey Larded._
Lard the breast of a young turkey as you would a noix de veau (No. 565),
(only cut the bacon finer), to facilitate the larding, dip the breast
in a stewpan of boiling water, or pass it a minute over the flame of a
charcoal fire to set the skin to the flesh, place it down to roast but
do not butter it over the larded part; serve with gravy and
water-cresses in a dish as before.
No. 942. _Dindonneau truffé à la Périgord._
This dish is sometimes served as a roast in the second course, but very
seldom in this country. Proceed exactly as for the remove (No. 524), but
choose a very small turkey, for what would look noble in the first
course would appear vulgar in the second.
No. 943. _Dindonneau farci._
Have a young turkey, but do not let its weight exceed six pounds, have
ready one pound of veal forcemeat with which mix six truffles in small
dice and half a pound of fat livers previously blanched, season well,
then stuff the breast and interior of the turkey, fasten the skin over
to the backbone, (but not too tight,) with a packing-needle and string,
and roast in vegetables as for the removes; about a quarter of an hour
before it is finished take the vegetables from it, and place it closer
to the fire to take a nice gold colour; serve with a little gravy in the
dish. It will require one hour to roast.
No. 944. _Roast Turkey à l’Anglaise._
Have a young turkey, stuff the breast with some veal stuffing (No. 127),
roast it plain as directed, and serve with a little gravy and
water-cresses; a few small country sausages broiled very crisp should be
handed round the table.
No. 945. _Turkey Poults._
Turkey poults, so called from being used when about the size of a large
poulet, are trussed with the legs turned at the knuckle and the feet
pressing upon the thighs, the neck is skinned and the head fixed under
the wing; roast them the same as directed for turkeys, about twenty-five
minutes or half an hour, according to their size, and in the same modes,
but they are usually served, one larded and the other barded, with gravy
and water-cresses in the dish.
No. 946. _Chapon rôti au cresson._
Roast and serve a capon in any of the ways directed for turkeys, roast
of a nice gold colour and serve with water-cresses round; a capon
weighing five pounds requires about three quarters of an hour to roast.
Poularde au cresson exactly as above.
No. 947. _Poularde à la Demidoff._
Put a pint and a half of sauce béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, place it
over the fire and reduce until becoming thick, keeping it stirred, then
add twenty dressed cockscombs and twelve small French truffles, season
with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, take it off the fire and
stir in two yolks of eggs very quickly, stir it another minute over the
fire to set, and put it away to get cold, then have a nice poularde
trussed with the legs turned inside, cutting off the feet, which stick
into the apertures where you turned in the legs, fix them in with string
and a packing-needle, as also the legs and wings, using no skewers, and
giving the poularde a handsome appearance, take out the breast-bone,
stuff the poularde with the above preparation, roast it in vegetables as
for the removes; when nearly done take away the vegetables and give it a
nice colour; have ready the following sauce: put a pint and a half of
white veal stock in a stewpan, with six spoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and
reduce it to a white demi-glace, then add a little sugar and four
spoonfuls of good cream; sauce round and serve.
No. 948. _Poularde rôti à la Stäel._
Roast a nice poularde in vegetables as above, when nearly done take away
the vegetables, let it turn a few minutes before the fire, then rub it
all over with butter, have some bread-crumbs and flour mixed together in
a flour-box, which shake over the poularde by degrees whilst roasting,
it will form a white crust over, take it up and serve with a demi-glace
de volaille (No. 6) under.
No. 949. _Poulet rôti._
For a dinner of four entrées you would require two fowls, but not too
large, truss and roast them as directed for a turkey, judging the time
required according to their size, serve with gravy and watercresses;
they may be larded, barded, or served in any way mentioned in the
foregoing receipts; a fowl weighing two pounds and a half would require
half an hour roasting, or three quarters of an hour if larger.
No. 950. _Spring Chickens._
Are served like fowls, generally plain roasted, but they may be larded
or dressed à la Stäel (No. 948) as the poularde. Be particular in tying
the legs upon paper to the spit, as directed for the turkey, as it so
improves their appearance when roasted. About twenty-five minutes would
be sufficient to roast them.
No. 951. _Spring Chickens à la Forrester._
Truss them as directed for poularde (No. 947), but roast them quite
plain, not very brown; have two good handfuls of very fresh
water-cresses, pick off all the stalks, and one of small salad mixed
well together, and completely cover the chickens with it, serve a little
gravy on the dish with some separate, and a boat of bread sauce.
No. 952. _Geese._
A green goose roasted plain and served with a little gravy is generally
sent up for second courses; but if the larger ones are used they must be
stuffed with sage and onions, but very few would choose such a thing for
a roast second course, whilst green geese in their season are great
favourites, truss them by cutting off the leg at the knuckle, and the
wing at the first pinion, fixing them at the side with skewers to throw
the breast up; a full-grown goose will take one hour to roast, but a
green one not more than half an hour.
No. 953. _Ducklings._
Make a very favourite roast in the London season, they must have good
fillets, white and plump, and require to be a little more underdone than
any other description of poultry; if too much done the fat catches and
gives a rank flavour to the flesh, besides causing the fillets to eat
dry, they are usually served plain roasted for a second course, but I
have served them differently upon some occasions for the sake of
variety, but it must be with a very thin sauce and one that invigorates
the palate, although they never can be better than when served plain
roasted, I shall here give one or two deviations; truss them by twisting
the legs at the knuckles and resting the feet upon the thighs, cut the
wing off at the first pinion, and run a skewer through the bird, fixing
the pinion and legs with it, place them upon a spit and roast twenty
minutes.
No. 954. _Canetons au vin de Madère._
Roast them plain, but just before they are done shake a little
potato-flour over them mixed with a little common flour, dress them on
your dish, and have ready the following sauce: put three spoonfuls of
chopped olives and one of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with two
glasses of Madeira wine, reduce it a minute, then add half a pint of
demi-glace (No. 9) with a little cayenne, sugar, and six spoonfuls of
consommé, reduce it till it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon,
then add the juice of half a lemon, sauce under and serve.
No. 955. _Canetons au jus d’orange._
Roast two ducklings plain, and serve with a sauce au jus d’orange (No.
17) over.
No. 956. _Canetons au jus d’eschalotte._
Roast as in the last and serve with a sauce au jus d’eschalotte (No. 16)
under.
No. 957. _Guinea Fowls._
These birds must be very young, for being naturally very dry, they are
not eatable if more than twelve months old; they are generally larded or
barded, and served plain roasted, rather well-done, they are trussed
like the common fowls, and require nearly three quarters of an hour to
roast.
No. 958. _Pea Fowls._
These magnificent birds make a noble roast, and when young are very
excellent, they are larded, plain roasted, and served with the tail
stuck into them, which you have preserved, the head with its feathers
being left folded up in paper and tucked under the wing; roast about an
hour and a half, take the paper from the head and neck, dress it upon
your dish with water-cresses and a border of tulips or roses round, and
the gravy separate in a boat.
In large families where these volatile demi-gods are plentiful, I would
recommend them to have one of the finest peacock’s tails mounted in
silver, and made to easily fix upon the dish, by means of a slide, in
which the fowl is served, it would look splendid upon table, and remind
us of the ancient Roman banquets, where Lucullus, Tiberius, and Horace
used to feast and sing their love.
No. 959. _Pigeons_
Are trussed as a fowl to roast, and served plain roasted, with a little
gravy in the dish, or roasted with a vine-leaf upon the breast, over
which you have tied a square piece of bacon, they will take a quarter of
an hour to roast, but serve them with the bacon and leaf over; my new
way of cooking them is to cut up a head or two of celery into very thin
layers, lay some on the breast of each, and tie pieces of fat bacon
over, roast and serve with a little gravy as usual; this method has been
much approved of.
No. 960. _Quails._
Eight quails are sufficient for a dish, they should be killed if
possible forty-eight hours before dressing, draw and truss them by
cutting off the wings at the first pinion, leaving the feet, and fixing
the pinion of the wing and legs with a very small skewer; cover the
breasts with vine-leaves, over which tie a thin square slice of fat
bacon, then pass a long skewer through the pinions and thighs of each,
tie them on a spit and roast them nearly twelve minutes at a convenient
distance from a sharp fire of a nice gold colour, serve with a little
gravy in the dish.
No. 961. _Cailles à l’Eloise._
Prepare eight quails with the bacon and vine-leaves as before, then have
a pig’s caul, cut it into eight square pieces and fold a quail in each,
roast them a minute longer than in the last, and serve with a very thin
sauce béchamel (No. 7) which you have finished with a spoonful of
whipped cream under.
No. 962. _Pheasants_
For second course are usually served plain, you require two of them for
a dish in a four entrée dinner, truss them the same as a fowl, leaving
the head and neck on, which skin, and fix round at the side with the
skewer you have fixed the wing and legs with; a middling-sized one will
take about half an hour before a brisk fire, they are also good larded,
or one larded and the other barded.
No. 963. _Faisans à la Galitzine._
Roast a couple of pheasants, and when done cut the breasts in slices
without detaching them; put six spoonfuls of consommé of game in a
stewpan, with a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, boil two minutes,
then add two pats of butter, a little cayenne pepper, and the juice of
half a lemon, pour over and serve.
No. 964. _Grouse_
Are generally served plain roasted upon a piece of toast, with gravy
separate in a boat; they may also be served à la Rob Roy, as directed
for the Remove (No. 548), but two birds will be sufficient for a roast,
truss them as you would a fowl to roast.
No. 965. _Grouse à la Bonny Lassie._
Truss them rather roughly, roast them before a brisk fire rather
underdone, if young a quarter of an hour will be sufficient, and serve
them upon toast, crisp and well-buttered, made from brown bread, and
serve with a rather thick and boiled melted butter (No. 71) over.
Grouse may likewise be served for a change with a thin sauce à l’essence
de gibier, with which you may add a few truffles or mushrooms, but this
will of course much depend upon the first course, or, at least, of what
the first course consists, although, as I have before stated, they are
better plain roasted; yet in some parts of the country where they are
plentiful a change may be desired.
_Ptarmigans_
Are Swedish birds, but many are found in Scotland, much of the same
species as grouse, and are very plentiful about the month of February;
they are dressed precisely in the same way as the grouse. A curious
anecdote of the celebrated Charles the Twelfth, relating to what he used
to call a fête, or repas champêtre, gave me the idea of inventing the
following roast, and calling it
_Ptarmigan à la Charles the Twelfth._
Kill them by accident, pluck them immediately, draw them, and save the
feathers and interior, put three guns in bivouac, and hang the
ptarmigans on one side with string or green twigs, light a wood fire
beneath, upon which put the feathers and interior, let remain, turning
them the whole time, till done, and serve them au naturel, with a good
bit of salt sprinkled over them; many people would object to this
method, but the flavour is excellent to a scientific palate, and more so
to a hungry stomach.
The anecdote is as follows: crossing a mountain in Sweden with a small
part of his army, the King was unexpectedly attacked by a numerous body
of Russians, and a skirmish took place, but the King was as usual
victorious; having lost several of his _braves_, a search was made for
them in the heather, where they found one hundred and fifty-one killed
and thirty wounded, being fifteen of the enemy, two Swedish officers,
one lieutenant, seven privates, one hundred and thirty ptarmigans, and
twenty-five black cocks, all killed by accident, the birds were, by
command of his Majesty, plucked and roasted, to the no small
satisfaction of his troops, who were short of provisions at the time; so
great was the treat that they hoped his Majesty would often repeat the
fête champêtre.
No. 966. _Black Cocks and Grey Hens._
These birds, like pheasants, must be well kept; they are excellent
eating, and are usually served plain roasted, trussed like grouse, but
may be served à la Stockholm as follows: lard one side of the breast,
and cover the other side with vine-leaves and fat bacon, which tie on,
roast from half to three quarters of an hour according to the size, and
serve with toast under, and gravy in the dish.
No. 967. _Partridges_
Make a very nice roast, truss them in the same manner as directed for
grouse, obtain them young if possible, the old ones although not the
best for stewing eat much better dressed that way; four will be
sufficient for a roast, put them upon the spit, and when the first
course goes to table place them before a sharp fire fifteen minutes, or
according to the size, and serve with a gill of clear gravy upon the
dish and bread sauce in a boat; you may also lard or bard them with fat
bacon, or lard two and bard two, allowing them a little longer to roast,
it will give them a very nice appearance.
No. 968. _Dun Birds_
Are very seldom sent to table, but plain roasted is the usual way, and a
little or no improvement can be made; serve them in a dish with gravy
and a lemon separate, not too much underdone.
No. 969. _Wild Ducks and Pintails._
Must not be too old, they require keeping two or three days or longer
before they are dressed; they are trussed by twisting each leg at the
knuckle, and resting the claws on each side of the breast, fixing them
with a skewer run through the thighs and pinion of the wings (No. 953),
rub the liver over the breasts, and roast them from fifteen to twenty
minutes rather brown, serve three for a roast, as the breast is the only
part eatable, a little gravy on the dish and lemons separate.
No. 970. _Wild Ducks à la Chasseur._
Truss them as before, rub the liver over, and roast underdone, cut the
breast in slices without detaching them, catch the gravy that escapes in
a sauté-pan, add a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, place it on the
fire, and when hot add four pats of butter, half a glass of port wine, a
little mignonette, pepper, and the juice of half a lemon, shake
altogether over the fire, and when the butter is melted sauce over and
serve. Although I have directed that they should be roasted underdone
they must have no appearance of rawness.
No. 971. _Widgeons_
Require but very little keeping before they are dressed, if well roasted
they are nearly equal to the wild duck, and are served the same; it
requires rather more than a quarter of an hour to roast them to
perfection.
No. 972. _Teal_
Make a beautiful roast as well as entrée, and when in good order are
very delicious, after a frost they are generally very fat; truss them
with care, leaving the breast the same as ducklings, six will be
sufficient for a dish, keep them a very light brown colour and rather
crisp, serve with a little gravy and water-cresses, if approved of,
serve lemon separate; these birds being tender are easily cut in halves
by the carver, to one half of which he can assist each guest; they will
require about eight minutes roasting.
No. 973. _Teal au jus d’orange._
Roast as above, and serve with a sauce au jus d’orange (No. 17) over
them, or they may be served with a sauce au jus de bigarade (No. 18), or
a demi-glace de gibier (No. 61).
No. 974. _Plovers_
Are good when well kept, and excellent as a roast, truss, but do not
draw them, and put six on a skewer, set some toast underneath to catch
the trail which may escape from them whilst roasting, about ten minutes
is sufficient; cut the toast in diamond shapes, place them in your dish
with the plovers over, and gravy separate in a boat, they may also be
served barded with the vine-leaf as for pigeons or quails, but the bacon
must be very thin, and when roasted quite crisp, black plovers are
dressed in the same way, but the golden ones are the most delicate.
No. 975. _Of the Woodcock._
These birds are one of the greatest luxuries, they must not be too fresh
or too stale when dressed; they are fit for cooking when they look black
between the legs and the feathers become rather loose; pluck and truss
them with the legs twisted at the knuckles and the feet pressing upon
the thighs; bring the pinion of the wing to the thigh, you have
previously skinned the head and neck, bring the beak round under the
wing, which pass through the pinions of the wings and thighs, place
about four upon a skewer, tie them upon a spit and roast them from ten
to fifteen minutes before a sharp fire with a piece of toasted bread
beneath to catch the trail that falls from them; when done cut the toast
in diamond shapes, each piece large enough to stand a bird upon, dress
them slantwise on your dish with gravy sufficient to lightly moisten the
toast, and some separate in a boat; they may also be barded with a piece
of bacon tied over the breast not too thick, but they will require
rather longer to roast. The beak may be made to form the skewer.
No. 976. _Woodcocks à la Stäel._
Truss as before, put them down to roast, when down two minutes rub
butter over, and shake flour gently but continually over them till done,
it will give them quite a new appearance, and are by many preferred to
plain roasted; serve them on a toast as before.
No. 977. _Woodcocks à la fumée de Gibier._
Roast as before and serve with a sauce fumée de gibier (No. 60), which
you have finished with a pat of butter. Although I recommend that this
delicate bird should be served plain roasted, yet it may be served with
advantage as above directed.
No. 978. _Woodcocks à la Piedmontaise._
Roast as before then cut four large truffles in slices, fry them a few
minutes in oil, then pour off the oil, add ten tablespoonfuls of sauce
fumée de gibier and a little sugar, boil altogether two minutes, dress
the birds on toast, sauce over and serve.
No. 979. _Larks_
Are very delicious little birds, about twelve or fifteen are sufficient
for a dish; they are usually roasted plain, or with a thin slice of fat
bacon tied over them, and served with a little gravy in the dish and
crumbs of fried bread round; they require about eight minutes to roast
them well.
No. 980. _Snipes_
Are somewhat similar to woodcocks, and dressed exactly the same, but you
require eight or ten for a dish; they do not require more than ten
minutes roasting.
No. 981. _Hares._
One is sufficient for a roast, skin and truss it nicely, stuff the belly
with a good veal stuffing, sew it up, then put it on the spit, rub
butter over the back and shake flour over it, roast it about forty
minutes before a sharp fire, but that depends upon the size of course;
serve them with plain gravy in the dish and currant jelly separate. They
are also served with a sauce poivrade (No. 32), or sauce au jus
d’groseilles (No. 36), they may also be larded.
No. 982. _Leverets_
Are plain roasted and do not require stuffing, nor so long roasting
being smaller; they are usually served with plain gravy, but may be
served with either of the sauces mentioned in the last; you require two
for a roast. They will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes roasting.
No. 983. _Rabbits._
You require two for a roast; they may be stuffed with a good veal
stuffing or forcemeat of veal, plain roasted, and served with a little
gravy on the dish. Wild rabbits are dressed precisely the same; they may
be stuffed with a forcemeat of game instead of veal, both require butter
and flour rubbed over them, and will take from twenty to twenty-five
minutes roasting.
SAVOURY DISHES FOR SECOND COURSE.
These dishes are divided into three classes, and in England all belong
to the second course, but in France they are very frequently served in
the first with a dinner of four or six entrées, that is, one or two of
them, and are very commendable in the summer months; for breakfasts,
luncheons, or suppers, they are invaluable. The large pieces, such as
pâtés of game, galantine of turkey, poulardes, boars’ heads, &c., are in
smaller dinners placed at the bottom of the table to face the roasts,
but in a dinner of six or ten entrées they are served as flancs. All
others, such as small galantine of game à la volière, pâtés, chaud
froids, salads, mayonnaise, &c., by making them smaller may be served as
savoury entremets, in a corner dish.
THE BOAR’S HEAD.
Has in all times ornamented the tables and even the walls of ancient
epicures;--a princely dish is a boar’s head, its ferocious appearance
giving it such noble dignity when brought to table that it has not only
been recognized as one of the first and most recherché dishes of
antiquity, but has been immortalized by some of the oldest masters;
never has an antique banquet been represented without the introduction
of either a black or white servant in the act of bringing or placing a
boar’s head upon the table of a wealthy amphytrion. Sneiders, Weenix,
and Rubens, have often traced it upon their immortal canvasses, which
were eagerly bought by the greatest epicureans to embellish their
banqueting halls, and to show their children, from generation to
generation, how their great forefathers used to live.
No. 984. _Of the Boar’s Head à l’Antique._
Procure a head with as much of the neck attached to it as possible,
singe it well, holding it over a charcoal fire, and keeping it moved,
then wipe it with a cloth, scrape well with a knife without scratching
the skin, and place it on a cloth upon its skull, open it with your
knife from one end to the other, and bone it very carefully without
piercing the skin, leaving no flesh whatever upon the bones, bone the
two necks of the boar, which cut into long fillets two inches square,
place the head in a salting-tub, over which put ten pounds of salt, one
of brown sugar, ten bay-leaves, half an ounce of peppercorns, a quarter
ditto of cloves, six blades of mace, eight minced onions, twenty sprigs
of thyme, ten ditto of winter savoury, and two sliced carrots; mix all
well together and leave it eight or ten days, (rubbing the head every
other day,) until well salted, then take it out, dry it well upon a
cloth, lay the head straight before you, skin side downwards, have ready
ten pounds of forcemeat (No. 120,) (but using the flesh of the wild boar
instead of veal,[9]) with which cover the interior of the head an inch
in thickness at the thinnest parts, roll the fillets cut from the neck
in pieces of the rind, (both salted with the head and dried upon a
cloth,) place a layer of them lengthwise in the head, with a long piece
of fat bacon half an inch square between each, sprinkle a little chopped
eschalots, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over, and place here and
there about a pound of the best preserved truffles, with one of very
green pistachios blanched and skinned, and continue filling with
forcemeat and the other ingredients until you have used the whole,
finishing by covering forcemeat over; join the two cheeks together with
the above in the interior, sew it up with packthread giving it the shape
of the head as much as possible and fold it in one or two large thin
cloths leaving the ears out and upright; braise as follows: put half a
pound of butter in a large braising-pan or stock-pot, over which put
fifteen pounds of trimmings of pork or knuckles of veal, eight onions,
two carrots, four turnips, eight bay-leaves, a tablespoonful of
peppercorns, twelve cloves, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of marjoram, four
blades of mace, a bottle of bucellas wine, and four calves’ feet, place
it upon a sharp fire stirring it occasionally until the bottom is
covered with a clearish glaze, then add six gallons of water and a pound
of salt, when boiling draw it to the corner of the stove, skim, and put
in the head the ears uppermost and let simmer seven or eight hours,
perhaps more, according to the size and age of the boar, but the better
plan would be to try it with a trussing-needle; if tender it is done;
skim the stock, in which leave the head until half cold, when take it
out, partly undo the cloths, and tie it again tighter if possible, and
press it in a cover or upon a baking sheet with three flat pieces of
wood, one at each side with a weight against them, and one upon the top
between the ears, on which place a fourteen pounds weight, let it remain
all night until quite cold, when take it out of the cloths, detach the
thread it was sewn up with, cut a piece an inch in thickness from behind
the ears, (from which part it must be carved in as thin slices as
possible,) it will have a marbled appearance, trim the head a little,
setting the ears in a proper position, glaze it with a brownish glaze,
form the eyes with a little lard and round pieces of truffles, and the
tusks with pâté d’office (No. 1137) baking them, have some very fresh
tulips and roses, which stick tastefully in the ears and some around,
but leaving space to carve, garnish boldly with croutons aspic made from
the stock clarified as directed (No. 1360).
A black hog’s head may be dressed exactly the same with the greatest
success; pig’s heads also, but more simplified, proceeding as for
galantine (No. 998), but having the meat pickled.
A plain pickled boar’s head is also very much thought of, and is a noble
dish: singe the head as before, but leaving a few bristles round the
eyes and ears, tie it up in a cloth, and braise as before until quite
tender. It must not be boned.
The head of the young boar or marcassin is very delicate dressed in
either method, so likewise are the legs, necks, shoulders and saddles,
pickled and roasted, or braised and served with a poivrade or any other
highly-seasoned sauce, cotelettes may also be cut from the necks.
The following is the German method of making a sauce to be eaten with
boar’s head: cut the rind (free from pith) of two Seville oranges into
very thin strips half an inch in length, which blanch in boiling water,
drain them upon a sieve and put them into a basin, with a spoonful of
mixed English mustard, four of currant jelly, a little pepper, salt,
(mix well together,) and half a pint of good port wine.
No. 985. _Ribs of Beef à la George the Fourth._
Beef, as for entrées, offers but very little variation for second course
dishes, the ribs, fillets, and tongue being the only parts to be
recommended; and even these are more fit for luncheons or suppers.
Take a piece of ribs of beef with five bones, well covered, but not too
fat nor too large, bone it and lard the thick part with long pieces of
fat bacon and lean ham or tongue, well seasoned with pepper, salt, and
chopped parsley, then lay the beef on a dish, with a little pepper,
salt, fifty peppercorns, six blades of mace, ten eschalots in slices,
half a pint of Madeira, and a little thyme and bay-leaves, let remain
thus five days in winter, and but three in summer, turn and rub it every
day; when ready to dress clear away the ingredients, roll and tie it up,
then put two pounds of lean ham cut in dice in a large stewpan, with two
ounces of butter and six large Portugal onions, pass gently over a slow
fire, keeping stirred, put in the beef, let it braise gently until
becoming a good colour, add water sufficient to reach half way up the
beef, with half a pint of Madeira, two calves’ feet, a good bunch of
parsley, and twenty pieces of carrots, turned the size and shape of
young carrots, let it remain over a slow fire and place some live
charcoal upon the lid, let stew gently four or five hours, or until
tender, which try with a trussing-needle, but take out the carrots and
onions as soon as done; when done take out the feet and skim off all the
fat, leave it in the stock till three parts cold, then take it up, place
it in a deep dish-cover, take off the string, and strain the stock
through a sieve over it, then lay another dish upon the beef, upon which
place a twenty-eight pounds weight, and leave it till quite cold, warm
the stock and pass it through a napkin, season a little more if
required, and place it in a mould upon ice, dress the beef on a dish,
glaze it nicely, dress the onions at each end and the carrots in pyramid
at each side, cut the stock when firm in croutons, with which garnish
the beef tastefully and serve; should the stock be thick clarify it as
directed for consommé (No. 134); it is not, however, required to be very
clear. To carve it must be cut in slices crosswise.
No. 986. _Ribs of Beef à la Bolingbroke._
Proceed with the beef just as in the last, but put a roll of veal
stuffing (No. 127) in the centre, the carrots and onions only being
required for flavour are cut in small slices; press your beef as in the
last, but thicken the stock with a little roux to form a thin brown
sauce, with which make a good sauce piquante (No. 27), which flavour
slightly with a little scraped garlic, place the beef in your dish, and
the sauce upon ice, when nearly cold and ready to set pour it over,
sprinkling the top with grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed
some chopped gherkins, it is then ready to serve.
No. 987. _Filet de Bœuf froid à la Bohémienne._
Prepare and lard a fillet of beef as directed for the Removes (No. 417),
then put it in a basin in which you have put the following marinade:
four onions in slices, one carrot, a head of celery, ten sprigs of
thyme, eight bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, and a little parsley,
which pass in half a pound of butter in a stewpan over a sharp fire five
minutes, then add one quart of vinegar, one of water, two ounces of
salt, and half a pound of brown sugar, with twenty peppercorns, ten
cloves, and two blades of mace, boil half an hour, but do not put in the
fillet till the marinade is cold, let remain a week, and when wanted put
it in a braising-pan with one quart of the marinade and two of veal
stock or consommé (No. 134), place it over a slow fire, and stew gently
for two or three hours, depending upon the size, take it out and place
it in a dish to cool, with a little stock over it, skim the remainder
and pass it through a napkin into a stewpan, place it upon the fire,
reduce it to half, skim it well, add a little clarified isinglass (No.
1372) sufficient to set it as a delicate aspic, six spoonfuls of tomata
sauce, and a little red currant jelly; having trimmed and dished the
fillet, sauce over, when quite cold garnish with a border of plovers’
eggs, and decorate three silver atelettes, by placing a fine dressed
cockscomb at the top, a fine truffle beneath, and a plover’s egg,
ornamented with truffles at the bottom, stick them in the fillet, one
slanting at each end, and the other upright in the centre, it is then
ready to serve.
No. 988. _Filets de Bœuf farcis à la Dr. Johnson._
Trim a nice small fillet about fifteen inches long, and cut off the
thickest part of the thin end, then with a long knife cut a deep
incision down the thin side, lengthwise, which fill with a pound of veal
forcemeat (No. 120), with which you have mixed some ox-tongue, truffles,
and hard-boiled whites of eggs, cut into good-sized fillets, season with
a little chopped eschalots, then cover the fillet with leaves of celery
as large as you can get them, over which also lay slices of cooked ham,
and envelope the whole in thin slices of fat bacon, tie it up with
string, then place it in a braising-pan with two calves’ feet, and half
cover it with good stock, place it on a slow fire and stew it two hours
and a half, or until tender, which try with a trussing-needle, take it
up and leave it on a dish to get cold; then pass the stock through a
sieve into a stewpan, and place it upon the ice to set, when firm take
off all the fat, wash the top with hot water to take off all the grease,
then clarify it as directed for aspic (No. 1360), and pass it through a
napkin, trim the fillet at each end lightly, leaving the top untouched,
when quite cold have ready a long mould and pour a little of the
clarified stock into it half an inch in depth, place it on the ice, and
when set ornament it with fillets of truffles, tongue, and whites of
hard-boiled eggs, which cover carefully with more of the clarified stock
half an inch thick; when quite set lay in the fillet of beef, the top
downwards, and fill the mould with the remainder of the jelly; when set
turn it out of the mould upon a dish by dipping the mould in warm water,
garnish round with stoned olives and the remainder of the clarified
stock; you may also stick atelettes on the top, ornamented tastefully.
If you cannot procure a mould place the fillet upon a dish, and garnish
it tastefully with croutons of aspic.
No. 989. _Cold Ox Tongues._
Dress them as described for flancs in first course, but as soon as they
are cooked skin them and cut off nearly all the root, truss it of a good
shape by placing the root end against some fixture, and running a fork
through the middle of the thin part into the board; when cold trim it.
Although I disapprove of ornamented hot tongues for first course, I must
confess that a bold design carved upon a fine tongue is pleasing to the
eyes on a luncheon or supper-table, and even for dinners in a second
course, although seldom used there; the design must be left entirely to
the taste of the artist, but one of the most simple and yet tasty
designs, is the imitation of a long escalope shell, commencing at the
thin end and terminating at the thick; glaze well with light glaze, a
sheet of aspic a quarter of an inch in thickness may be laid over it,
which will produce a pleasing effect, dress it upon your dish with
croutons of aspic round. Tongues for second course, as for the first,
are seldom served by themselves, but are usually intended to be eaten
with veal or poultry upon the table.
No. 990. _Tongue à la Lancret._
Boil, truss, and trim the tongue as above, dress it on your dish, and
have ready the following garniture: boil gently four very fine
cauliflowers, not too much done, when cold cut three of them into small
bunches, have ready a good sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361) in
which you have introduced a little whipped cream, dip each piece of
cauliflower in the sauce and lay them on a dish, which set upon the ice,
dip also the whole cauliflower in; when the sauce has set firm place the
cauliflower upon the root of the tongue with an atelette, dress the
bunches round the tongue, variegating them with a few stoned olives; the
tongue may also be carved in any design your fancy may dictate and
nicely glazed.
No. 991. _Tongue à la Printanière._
Trim and carve the tongue when cold in the shape of a palm-branch; have
some aspic (No. 1360) flavoured rather strongly with tarragon, have also
twenty young carrots and twenty middle-sized onions, dressed as directed
in No. 428, let them get cold in their glaze, place the tongue in the
centre of the dish, glaze lightly, dress the vegetables alternately
round upon a thin border of fresh butter, and just as the aspic is on
the point of setting pour it over the vegetables, which will look quite
transparent, set the dish on ice till ready to serve, a few green peas
if in season may be thrown over the onions.
No. 992. _Tangue à la Comédienne._
Truss and trim the tongue as usual, carving a comic mask upon it, glaze
lightly, and place it upon your dish, have ready prepared the following
garniture: put two tablespoonfuls of chopped eschalots in a stewpan,
with one of Chili and one of common vinegar, a piece of glaze the size
of a walnut, a pint of white sauce (No. 7), half ditto of tomata sauce
(No. 37), with double the quantity of aspic gelée, reduce over a sharp
fire, keeping it stirred till becoming rather thick, then add a spoonful
of capers and the same of chopped gherkins, oil a sauté-pan lightly,
pour in the sauce, set it on the ice just before serving, turn out on a
cloth, cut it in croutons and garnish tastefully.
No. 993. _Cold Ham._
Procure a very nice Westmoreland ham of about nine pounds in weight,
soak it ten hours in cold water, and simmer three hours[10] in plenty of
water; when done take it out and let remain until cold, when cut off the
skin as thinly as possible (but without leaving the marks of it),
leaving a piece about two inches and a half broad upon the knuckle,
which either festoon or vandyke, carve the fat into the form of a shell,
branch, or any other design your fancy may direct, glaze lightly, and
serve garnished with aspic (No. 1360), chopped and in croutons, or with
any of the garnitures directed for the tongues.
No. 994. _Fillet of Veal à la Pontoise._
Procure a small leg of veal from a cow calf, cut off the knuckle so as
to leave the fillet about eight inches in height, take the bone from the
centre, have ready some good veal stuffing (No. 127) in which you have
introduced some lean chopped ham and chopped eschalots, season rather
high and put it in the place the bone came from, envelope the fillet
with large thin slices of fat bacon, tie it up well with string, wrap it
in three or four sheets of oiled paper, place it on a spit and roast
three hours before a moderate fire, take up, tie it tight in a napkin;
place it on a dish to cool, put another dish upon the top, upon which
place a fourteen pounds weight, let remain till cold, then take off the
paper and bacon, the fillet will be quite white, cut a slice off the
top, glaze the sides, and serve with a thin sauce tartare (No. 38) round
it.
No. 995. _Fillet of Veal à la Cardinale._
Cut a fillet as in the last, have also ready boiled a nice ox-tongue
very red; you have also prepared about two pounds of good veal forcemeat
(No. 120), run about twenty pieces of fat bacon right through the
thickest part of the fillet, surround the tongue (trimmed accordingly)
with the forcemeat, and place in the centre of the fillet, but not to
protrude out of it, surround it with slices of fat bacon and roast it in
vegetables (see Removes, No. 417); when done place it on a dish till
cold, without taking away the paper and vegetables, when cold take it
out; trim and glaze as in the last, dress on your dish, and garnish with
croutons of aspic (No. 1360), cut according to taste, surmount it with
six small atelettes, upon each of which you have placed a crawfish (No.
380), truffle, and quenelle de veau (No. 120), it is then ready to
serve; the atelettes must be fixed upon the rim of the fillet, leaning
outwards to give it a graceful appearance, some of them, however, must
be taken out to carve.
No. 996. _Loin of Veal au Jambon._
Roast a nice loin in vegetables, in which let it remain till cold, have
also a good ham nicely boiled, from which cut twenty-four croutons, the
size and shape of small fillets of fowls, dress the veal in the centre
and the ham round; fill a large sauté-pan with aspic (No. 1360), which
set upon the ice, when firm dip the bottom of the pan in warm water and
turn the jelly in one piece over the loin, have also some chopped, with
which garnish the ham.
No. 997. _Loin of Veal à la Dame Blanche._
Roast a nice loin of veal as in the last, and when cold have ready the
following sauce: put six tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar in a stewpan
with a blade of mace, six cloves, six peppercorns, one bay-leaf, and two
ounces of raw ham; boil altogether three minutes, then add two quarts of
sauce béchamel (No. 7) and a pint of aspic (No. 1360), reduce till
rather thick over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred, pass it through a
tammie into a stewpan, which place upon the ice, keep it stirred, and
just as it is beginning to set stir in half a pint of whipped cream,
pour over the loin, which stand upon the ice till the sauce is firm, cut
six mild Indian pickles into pieces of equal sizes, which strew
carelessly over the top.
No. 998. _Galantine de Veau au Jambon._
Bone a breast of veal about fifteen inches in length, cut off the end
where the shoulder was taken out, and cut out some of the meat in large
pieces from the other, so as to leave the skin about half an inch in
thickness; then cut the meat in strips the thickness of your finger, and
as long as possible, with a corresponding number of strips of fat bacon
and cooked ham; have also ready three pounds of forcemeat (No. 120), lay
the skin of the breast downwards, open on the dresser, spread some of
the forcemeat down the centre half an inch in thickness, leaving good
room at the ends and sides, then put a layer of the strips alternately,
season with pepper and salt rather high, cover again with forcemeat,
then again a layer of the strips, cover the whole with forcemeat, then
cover the flaps over and sew it up tight, fold it in a sheet of paper
and tie it up in a cloth, place it in a stewpan, cover with good stock
(or put it into a stewpan in which you are preparing a stock), place the
stewpan over the fire, and when boiling draw it to the corner, where let
simmer three hours and a half, then take it up, untie the cloth, and
turn the galantine over, from which take off the paper, fold again in
the cloth, but be careful to keep the sewn side uppermost, place it in a
deep dish surrounded with the stock, place a flat dish upon it, upon
which stand a fourteen pounds weight; let remain till quite cold, take
it up, trim, draw out the string it was sewn with, cut off the ends,
dress it in the centre of your dish, garnish with chopped aspic (No.
1360) in a roll, round outside of which place croutons of the same, and
upon the top of the galantine dress smaller croutons of aspic, brown and
white alternately. Gherkins quartered lengthwise may be used for the
interior of the galantine. The aspic may be made from the stock the
galantine is cooked in, by making an addition of two calf’s feet, and
clarifying it as directed.
No. 999. _Pâté de Veau au Jambon._
Have ready buttered a large raised pie mould,[11] make also a paste with
five pounds of flour mixed with a pint and a half of hot water in which
you have dissolved a pound of fresh butter, work the paste very smooth
with the hand; when cold line your mould with it three quarters of an
inch in thickness, and bringing it more than an inch above the top,
reserving the trimmings for a cover, line the inside of the pie with
forcemeat (No. 120) half an inch in thickness; then have ready larded
with fat bacon four pounds of lean veal, which you have cut in pieces
the length of the interior of your pie and two inches square, which
place in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, well seasoned
with pepper, salt, and four bay-leaves, and pass them twenty minutes
over the fire until well covered with their own glaze; use them when
cold, pouring the gravy from them into the pie; have also two pounds of
cooked ham, fat and lean, which cut as near as possible of the same size
as the veal, lay two pieces of the veal at the bottom of the pie with a
piece of ham between, cover with the forcemeat, and proceed in like
manner till you have filled the crust, finishing as a dome above the
edges of the pie, which raise gracefully with your fingers, and crimp
with a pair of paste pincers, after having placed on a cover of paste a
quarter of an inch in thickness, making a hole at the top; then lay an
oval piece upon the top to form a lid, which ornament with leaves or as
fancy directs, bake five hours in a slow oven, then cut off the lid, lay
an oval piece of tin (made for that purpose) upon the meat, upon which
place a four pounds weight, let remain till the pie is cold, then take
out of the mould, glaze the top and garnish with chopped aspic and
croutons of the same; serve either with or without the cover. By filling
the pie with strong gravy upon taking it from the oven, shaking it well,
you will have no occasion to open or press it to carve it, then it must
be cut in thin slices through crust and all.
No. 1000. _Cotelettes de Veau à la St. Garat._
Cut six nice cotelettes from a neck of veal, of a nice shape, lard them
through and through the fillets with thickish pieces of fat bacon and
cooked tongue, place them in a sauté-pan, and cover with a good veal
stock, stew gently over a slow fire till tender, lay them flat in a
dish, pour their stock over, then lay another dish upon them and press
lightly till cold, have six moulds the shape and large enough to contain
a cotelette, have also some aspic jelly (No. 1360), pour a little in
each mould about a quarter of an inch deep, place them on a dish of ice,
and when partly set form a rosette or star upon each, with fillets of
hard-boiled white of egg and truffles, cover them with a little more
aspic to keep them in their places, and when set firm lay a côtelette
upon each, fill the moulds up with aspic and place them on the ice till
firm, then dip them in hot water and turn them out on your dish, one to
follow the other in a circle, if no moulds place them in a sauté-pan,
cover them with aspic, and when set turn them out upon a cloth by
dipping the bottom of the pan in warm water, and with the point of a
knife cut them out of equal sizes.
No. 1001. _Côtelettes de Veau à la Princesse._
Cut, braise, and press six côtelettes as above, make a good sauce
mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), and when getting stiff dip each
côtelette in so that it is well covered, and place them in a dish upon
the ice, dress salad in pyramid in the centre of a flanc dish, against
which lay the côtelettes with a small paper frill upon the bone of each,
garnish round with croutons of aspic (No. 1360).
No. 1002. _Riz de Veau à la Chinoise._
Lard six small sweetbreads as directed for the entrée (No. 671), which
braise, keeping them a very light colour, when cold have some very white
aspic (No. 1360), and six small plain round moulds; cover the bottoms of
the moulds a quarter of an inch deep with aspic, when partly set garnish
round with rows of stoned olives and pickled mushrooms, or pieces of
beetroot, boiled carrots, turnips, &c., according to fancy, and make a
star or rosette of whites or hard-boiled eggs in the centre, cover with
a little more of the aspic and when set firm place in the sweetbreads
(topsy-turvy) and fill up with aspic, have some rice well boiled and
dry, (see No. 129), put it in a stewpan, with six pats of butter and
some pepper and salt, when the butter is melted mix well together and
place it to get cold on the ice, dress it in pyramid in the centre of a
flanc dish, dip the moulds in warm water, and turn them out in an oval
circle round the rice, placing a fine cabbage lettuce upon the top.
No. 1003. _Cotelettes de Mouton braisé aux navets._
Cut, lard, and braise twelve mutton cotelettes as directed (No. 722),
press them in their stock lightly like the veal cotelettes, when cold
trim them of a nice shape, you have prepared a good poivrade sauce (No.
32), to which you have added half a pint of aspic (No. 1360), and when
nearly cold dip in the cotelettes, holding them by the bones, until they
are quite enveloped, dress them (when quite cold) upon a thin border of
fresh butter, garnish with croutons of aspic, and serve a ragout of
turnips (No. 93) cold in the centre.
No. 1004. _Turban de Cotelette de Mouton à la Fermière._
Braise, press, and trim the cotelettes as in the last, but instead of a
poivrade reduce a good maître d’hôtel sauce (No. 43), to which add half
a pint of cream; when nearly cold dip the cotelettes in the sauce, place
them on the ice till somewhat firm, dress them in crown as in the last,
then prepare a salad with half a beetroot, one cucumber, one lettuce,
season with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, salt, chopped tarragon and
chervil; mix all well together, dress in pyramid in the centre of your
cotelettes, which garnish with shoes of cucumber and serve.
No. 1005. _Carbonade de Mouton._
Proceed as directed (No. 577), and when the carbonade is cold cut it in
slices, which trim and dress as directed in either of the two foregoing
receipts.
No. 1006. _Ballottins d’Agneau à la de Bazan._
Take two very white small shoulders of lamb, bone them completely, cut
off some of the meat at the thickest part, so as to give only a quarter
of an inch in thickness, season the inside with a little mixed spice,
pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots, have ready some forcemeat as
directed (No. 120), cover the shoulders half an inch in thickness with
it, then lay alternately small fillets of cooked tongue, fat bacon, and
lamb cut from a loin, season with pepper and salt, cover with the
forcemeat, then another layer of the fillets, then forcemeat, fold it
over and sew it up, giving it the form of an egg; when both done tie
them in napkins and braise in good stock, try when done with a
larding-pin, if tender take them out, press all ways alike to keep the
shape of eggs, when cold take them out of the napkins, draw out the
string and dress the two on one dish in a slanting direction, stick an
atelette at each end, have ready some aspic (No. 1360), or it may be
made from the stock by adding two calf’s feet to it, cover the bottom of
a sauté-pan with some of it, let set on the ice, then arrange fifty
pickled mushrooms and fifty stoned olives over, fill up the sauté-pan
and place it on the ice, when set cut it in croutons, with which garnish
the ballottins.
No. 1007. _Ballottins à la Catalanaise._
Prepare them exactly as in the last, when cold put a quart of sauce
béchamel (No. 7) in a stewpan, with a glass of white wine, half a glass
of vinegar, and half a pint of consommé, reduce till rather thick, add a
little isinglass dissolved in water and pass it through a tammie into a
clean stewpan, place the stewpan upon the fire, and when boiling add a
quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79), in which you have
introduced a tablespoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil; when the
butter is melted finish with a little cream, place it by to cool, and
when upon the point of setting pour it over the ballottins, place them
upon the ice till the sauce is quite firm, then garnish tastefully with
croutons of aspic (No. 1360) and place an atelette at each end.
No. 1008. _Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Gelée._
Take the chine bones from two necks of lamb and saw the ribs rather
short, the length you would require your cotelettes, lard the fillets
and roast them in vegetables, do not take them out until quite cold, cut
your cotelettes from them of a nice shape, reduce a good demi Provençale
sauce (No. 34), with which envelope each cotelette, when cold and the
sauce is set dress them in crown upon your dish with chopped aspic (No.
1360) in the centre and croutons of the same round.
No. 1009. _Cotelettes d’Agneau froid à la Princesse._
Prepare two necks of lamb as above, from which cut the cotelettes,
glaze, dress them in crown the reverse way, sauce over with a very white
mayonnaise sauce (No, 1364), sprinkle chopped gherkins and chopped ham
over.
No. 1010. _Galantine de Dinde._
Pluck and draw a turkey, bone it as directed for the poulardes (No.
514), spread it open upon the dresser, have ready some forcemeat as
directed (No. 120), spread some down the centre of the turkey, (you have
previously turned the legs inside,) half an inch in thickness, have
ready some long strips of lean veal the thickness of your finger and the
length of the turkey, have also strips of lean cooked ham and fat bacon,
lay them alternately upon the forcemeat, season with pepper and salt,
then cover with a layer of forcemeat, and so on till you have as much
as the bird will contain, finishing with forcemeat, pull the flaps over
and sew it up with packthread, tie it up in a napkin and roll it, to
press it of the same proportions, put it in a stewpan, with a few
vegetables of each sort, and cover with good stock, (or stew it in a
veal stock you may be preparing for a white sauce or soup,) stew two
hours and a half or till tender, which try with a larding-pin, take it
up, untie the string, open the cloth, see that the part where it is sewn
up is at the top, wrap it again in the napkin but tie it only at each
end, set it in a deep dish surrounded with some of the stock, set
another dish upon it and press it till cold with a fourteen pounds
weight, make an aspic, using some of the stock it was cooked in as
directed (No. 1360), dress the galantine upon a dish, surround it with
the aspic chopped and in croutons, and form a star of aspic upon the
top, or garnish in any other design your fancy may direct.
No. 1011. _Galantine de Dinde aux foies gras._
Proceed exactly as above, using fillets of rabbits instead of veal, and
interspersing eight fat livers of poulardes in the interior.
No. 1012. _Galantine de Dinde à la Volière._
Bone a very young turkey, and proceed exactly as in the last, using two
ounces of pistachios, blanched and skinned, and half a pound of truffles
cut into thick fillets, instead of the livers, when stuffed and sewn up
roll it very tight in a cloth, which also tie very tight, especially at
the tail, which requires to be made so much narrower; stew as before,
when done take it out of the napkin, see that the part where it is sewn
shall be at the bottom, tie it again in the napkin, but only at the
ends, lay it in a deep dish surrounded with the stock it was stewed in,
place a dish slantwise upon it (to press the tail thinner), upon which
place a ten pounds weight; when cold take it from the napkin, draw out
the string and place it upon a dish; you have saved one of the legs of
the turkey, cut the foot off an inch and a half below the knuckle, with
which form the head and neck of the bird; should the leg of the bird not
be of sufficient length make it higher by fixing it upon a wooden
skewer, place it at the thickest end of the galantine, covering it with
some of the forcemeat (which you have blanched and mixed with a little
hot glaze), make of the size and as nearly as possible in imitation of
the real head and neck, stick the two claws of a convenient-sized
lobster in the sides for wings, and with the tail of the lobster form
the tail of the bird; surround it with chopped aspic (No. 1360) in
rolls, over which lay thin slices of it to imitate waves, and surround
with croutons of the same; it is then ready to serve.
No. 1013. _Pâté de Dinde au blanc de Volaille._
Bone a small turkey and line the interior with forcemeat (No. 120), you
have prepared a mould as for pâté de veau (No. 999), but using pâte à
fine, or pâte à dresser (Nos. 1135, 1136), instead of the pâte there
directed, the interior of which also line with forcemeat, trim a nice
red ox-tongue (cooked), cut it about the length of the turkey, cover
with thickish slices of fat bacon, roll it up in the turkey, which place
in the pie, cover with a slice of fat bacon, and again with forcemeat in
a dome, finish the pie and bake as directed (No. 999), make a stock with
the bones of the turkey, with which make a sauce as directed (No. 57),
do not press the meat in the pie, but when three parts cold pour in the
sauce, put it in the larder till quite cold, and serve either with or
without aspic (No. 1360) on the top.
Galantines may also be made of geese (when young) or pâtés, by
following the receipts for the galantines or pâtés of turkey, and adding
a little sage and onion to the forcemeat.
Poulardes, capons, and fowls are also used for galantines in either of
the ways directed for turkey.
No. 1014. _Galantine de Poularde à la Persane._
Make a galantine as directed (No. 998), have ready some grated crust of
bread, with which mix an ounce of chopped pistachios; when the galantine
is cold glaze it well, and throw the crumbs and pistachios all over,
have ready some aspic (No. 1360), put a little in a plain oval mould,
about half an inch in depth, when set form a rosette of hard-boiled
whites of eggs and truffles, by cutting them with cutters; cover with a
little more jelly, so as to make it an inch and a quarter in thickness,
the mould must not be quite so large an oval as the galantine; when the
aspic is set turn it out of the mould upon the top of the galantine, and
precisely in the centre, dress also croutons of aspic around, and stick
an atelette at each end, upon each of which you have placed a crawfish
and a small hard-boiled egg, shelled and ornamented with wreaths of
truffles.
But galantines may be ornamented in several elegant ways, entirely
depending upon the taste of the individual; for instance, the aspic may
not only be cut in different shaped croutons, but you may have them
variegated, (see aspics;) besides the number of tasty designs which may
be worked with egg, truffle, pistachios, anchovies, and various things
of that description with which aspics may be ornamented; but in all
cases let neatness be your object, and avoid confusion or multiplicity
of colours.
With the remains of a galantine of any description you may make an
excellent and elegant dish, by cutting twenty pieces the size and shape
of fillets of fowl; put some aspic a quarter of an inch in depth into a
large sauté-pan, stand it on the ice to set, then form twenty stars, or
rosettes, with truffles, lay a piece of the galantine over each, which
again cover with aspic; when firm dip the pan in warm water, and turn
out its contents upon a clean cloth, cut out each fillet with a cutter
dipped in hot water, dress them in crown round your dish upon a thin
border of anchovy butter, have ready a salad prepared thus: half a
dressed beetroot cut in slices, a sliced cucumber, the white of two nice
lettuces, and six fillets of anchovies, season with a little oil,
vinegar, pepper, salt, and chopped tarragon and chervil, mix well
together, dress it in pyramid in the centre of the dish, dress a border
of hard-boiled eggs around upon the top of the galantine, and finish the
top with chopped aspic, the galantine may also be cut as above, and
dressed plain with the salad in the centre, and garnished round with
croutons of aspic.
No. 1015. _Pâté de Volaille aux truffes._
Line a raised pie-mould with pâte fine (No. 1136) as directed, but you
will not require so large a mould; line the pie with forcemeat (No.
120), you have previously boned a small fowl, which stuff as for
galantine à la volière (No. 1032), seasoning it rather highly, but it
will not require sewing up; having filled it, place it in your pie,
cover with forcemeat, forming a dome, finish the pie as directed for
pâté de veau, bake two hours and a half in a slow oven, take it out, cut
off the lid, lay a sheet of tin upon the meat (made for that purpose),
upon which place a seven pounds weight, let remain until cold, then take
your pie out of the mould and serve with croutons and chopped aspic (No.
1360) upon the top.
No. 1016. _Poulardes à la Mazagran._
Procure two nice poulardes, which roast in vegetables, (with which you
have mingled two glasses of sherry,) as for the removes in first
course, when done take them up and keep them in the vegetables till
quite cold, which will keep them white; you have previously boiled,
trussed, and carved a branch of laurel or palm upon a tongue (No. 991),
fix an elegant Greek croustade of bread at the head of the dish; you
have previously made two quarts of sauce béchamel à la crème (No. 56),
very savoury and well reduced; when three parts cold dip the poulardes
into it with a fork, take them out quite enveloped with the sauce and
put them in the larder till cold, then dress them on your dish their
tails to the croustade, their breasts protruding outwards, place the
tongue between, the root facing the other end of the dish; you have
prepared three atelettes with a crawfish, cockscomb, and truffle upon
each, stick one upright in the croustade, and the other two in the root
of the tongue, glaze the tongue nicely, and garnish round with bold
croutons of aspic (No. 1360) of a very light colour.
No. 1017. _Poulardes à la Banquière._
Prepare two poulardes and tongue as in the last; you have reduced a
quart of good demi-glace (No. 9), with a pint of sauce tomate (No. 37)
and a pint of aspic (No. 1360), keeping it stirred; when about three
parts cold dip in the poulardes, place them on your dish and pour the
remainder of the sauce over, let get cold, then place on the tongue and
croustade with the atelettes garnished similar to the last; you have
previously procured thirty fine cockscombs, thirty button mushrooms, as
many small truffles, as many small quenelles (No. 120), and two
throat-breads cut in as many slices; when quite cooked have ready a
quart of bechamel sauce (No. 7) well reduced with half a pint of aspic,
add a gill of whipped cream, and when three parts cold dip the above
garniture into it, one piece at a time, and lay them on a dish in the
ice, when set rather firm garnish the poulardes very tastefully with
them, placing here and there the heart of a young cos lettuce.
No. 1018. _Poulets Printanier à la Santa Cruz._
Procure four spring chickens nicely trussed as for boiling, lard the
breast of each with cooked tongue and truffles to form a cross, tie them
in oiled paper and roast, leave them in the paper till cold; you have
also boiled two Russian ox tongues, split each one in halves lengthwise
and trim them neatly to give them the shape of small tongues, prepare
also a croustade of bread in the form of a pyramid, eight inches in
height and three in width at the bottom, place it in the centre of your
dish with an atelette upon the top, place a chicken resting upon the
breast, tail uppermost, at each side upon a little cold mashed potatoes,
and the tongue at the four corners, pour a red sauce mayonnaise (No.
1363) over the chickens but not to cover the cross, glaze the tongues
lightly, and garnish round the edges with rolls of chopped aspic.
No. 1019. _Poulets Printanier à la Princesse Royale._
Prepare your chickens and tongues as in the last, but do not lard them,
dish them the same, make a border of plovers’ eggs round, placing little
heads of cos lettuce between, sauce over the chickens with a very white
mayonnaise sauce and lightly glaze the tongues.
No. 1020. _Poularde à la Guillaume Tell._
Procure a fine poularde, bone it carefully, season the interior with
chopped eschalots, pepper, and salt, cover with a little forcemeat (No.
120); you have previously boiled a tongue, when cold cut off the root,
trim and cut it in large dice, which mix with forcemeat and stuff the
poularde with it, cover over the flaps and sew the poularde in its
original shape, tie it up in a napkin and braise it in good stock, to
which you have added two calf’s feet, stew two hours and a half, take it
up and press it lightly, when cold draw out the packthread, reduce the
stock to a demi-glace but keep it as clear as possible, procure a mould
large enough to contain the poularde, and an inch higher, place it on
the ice, pour in a little of the stock a quarter of an inch in
thickness, when it sets throw in some truffles and hard-boiled whites of
eggs cut in dice, then lay in the poularde, which cover with the
remainder of the stock, when set firm dip the mould in warm water and
turn it out on your dish, garnish round with chopped aspic and croutons,
and stick three atelettes ornamented upon the top, two slantingly at the
ends, and one upright in the centre.
No. 1021. _Chaud froid de Poularde._
Cut a nice capon or poularde into two fillets, two good wings, two legs,
and two pieces of back, lay them in lukewarm water one hour to disgorge,
wash well, then put them in a stewpan, cover with two quarts of good
veal stock, add two middling-sized onions, with a clove stuck in each, a
bunch of parsley, and a blade of mace, set on the fire till boiling,
then set it on the corner, skim, and let simmer very gently nearly an
hour; take them out, and drain them upon a cloth, then in another
stewpan make a white roux (No. 7), as for white sauce, with two ounces
of butter, and when partly cold add the stock to it; boil well, keeping
it stirred all the time; if too thick, add a little more good stock; but
it requires to be rather thickish; add a little sugar, four pats of
butter, and a gill of cream; put the pieces of poularde in a deep dish,
with thirty button onions, which you have previously peeled and stewed
in a little white stock, pass the sauce through a tammie over, and let
them remain till quite cold, dress a little salad upon a flanc dish,
upon which dress the pieces pyramidically, forming small pyramids here
and there with the onions, and placing a small sprig of parsley upon
each, garnish with croutons of aspic (No. 1360) cut rather bold.
No. 1022. _Chaud froid de Poularde à la Pembroke._
Proceed as above, adding twenty button mushrooms with the onions you
have chopped, a good-sized truffle, and a piece of very red tongue,
which sprinkle over each piece as you dish them up.
No. 1023. _Chaud froid de Poularde en mayonnaise._
Prepare as above, dress in a bordure upon the salad, sauce over with a
mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), and place a large truffle, with a
cockscomb upon it, at the top.
This dish may also be made with the remains of poulardes from a previous
dinner, by cutting them in neat pieces and dipping them into a good
bechamel sauce (No. 7), well reduced and half cold; when the sauce is
set, proceed as before.
No. 1024. _Filets de Poulardes à la Nesselrode._
Take the four fillets from two poulardes, as directed (No. 792), lay
them in a sauté-pan with plenty of butter, season with a little pepper,
salt, and lemon-juice, and sauté them gently over a slow fire; when done
place them on a dish, with another dish upon them, till quite cold, then
with a thin knife split each fillet into two; have ready a quart of good
bechamel sauce (No. 7), add a pint of white stock, in which you have
stewed the bones from the poulardes, reduce again to a quart, then stir
in a liaison of one yolk of egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream;
stir over the fire half a minute, then pass it through a tammie; dip
each fillet in the sauce, and lay them, when perfectly enveloped, upon
a dish till cold; you have previously soaked and boiled two Russian
pickled tongues; when cold cut eight pieces from them the size of the
fillets, which glaze lightly; dress a border of eggs (hard boiled) upon
a flanc dish, which tastefully ornament with small fillets of anchovies
upon the top of each piece of egg, and rings of beetroot around,
surround it with croutons of aspic, fill the centre with some salad
nicely seasoned, dress the fillets and tongue alternately upon the top
in crown, and sauce mayonnaise (No. 1361) in the centre.
No. 1025. _Filets de Poulardes à la Ravigote._
Fillet three poulardes and dress them as in the last, but add two ounces
of ravigote butter (No. 80) with the sauce you dip them in, dish them
the same but omit the tongue, and sauce with a green mayonnaise (No.
1363).
No. 1026. _Petits Canetons en aspic._
After having used the fillets for either of the preceding dishes, take
off the legs with as much of the skin as possible, bone and spread them
out before you, have ready some forcemeat (No. 120), to which add two
chopped truffles, put a good tablespoonful upon each leg, then sew them
round with packthread; when done place them in a stewpan, with two
onions sliced, a little lean ham, a sprig of thyme, parsley, and
bay-leaf, add rather more than a pint of stock, and stew them very
gently one hour over a slow fire; when done place them in a dish with
their stock, place another dish upon them and press very lightly; you
have saved and half stewed the bones from the legs, with which you may
easily form the heads and neck, stick them into the thicker end of the
birds, form the wings and tails with the claws and tails of crawfish, in
imitation of little ducklings, dress them to form a cross upon a round
dish, and garnish with aspic chopped and in croutons; four will be
sufficient for an entremet, and eight for a flanc; they likewise make
handsome garniture for larger dishes.
No. 1027. _Salade de Volaille._
Roast a poularde or large fowl in vegetables; when done and quite cold
cut it into ten fine pieces, place it in a basin, with a large onion
sliced, a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, toss them over
occasionally, allowing them to remain an hour; you have dressed a border
of hard-boiled eggs upon a thin border of butter, garnish round with
half slices of cucumber, gherkins, and beetroot, and place a fillet of
anchovy upon each piece of egg, fill the interior with salad cut rather
fine, upon which build the pieces of fowl in pyramid, (dipping each
piece into the sauce,) the best pieces at the top, and just as you send
it to table sauce over with a sauce mayonnaise (No. 1363).
No. 1028. _Salade de Filets de Poularde à la Brunow._
Gut the flesh from a poularde into slices as near as possible the size
of half-crown pieces, cut also some slices of cucumber, which stew in
white stock with a little sugar till quite tender; when done drain upon
a sieve, and add them to the slices of fowl, also a few peas well
boiled, if in season; put a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan,
with a pint of aspic (No. 1360) and a little sugar, boil altogether
until rather thick, keeping it stirred, then add the blanquette of fowl
with the vegetables, shake the stewpan round and pour the whole into a
sauté-pan, which place upon the ice; when quite set dip it in warm water
and turn it out on a clean cloth, cut it in middling-sized pieces of a
diamond shape and dress upon a salad prepared as in the last; dress them
in crown and sauce tartare (No. 38) in the centre, making the sauce
white by using English mustard instead of French, and adding a spoonful
of whipped cream.
No. 1029. _Poulets Printaniers à la Masaniello._
Bone two spring chickens without opening them at the back, have some
good veal forcemeat (No. 120) and an ox-tongue well boiled, which cut
into two pieces, trim them and place one piece in each chicken, fill the
remaining space up with forcemeat, tie them in a thin cloth and stew
them an hour or rather more in good veal stock (No. 7), lay them on a
dish breasts downwards and press them lightly, place a little aspic (No.
1360) at the bottom of a plain oval mould large enough to contain one of
the chickens; when it sets lay in the chicken and cover with more aspic,
dip the other chicken into a sauce béchamel à la crème (No. 56); when
the sauce is about half cold and quite set place a croustade of bread
(representing a fishing-boat) in the centre, with a chicken on each
side; having turned out the one in the aspic, stick three atelettes in
the croustade ornamented with a large quenelle de volaille, a truffle,
and a cockscomb; sauce round with a very white mayonnaise sauce. The
mast in the croustade must be made of pâte d’office (see plate
containing the designs for croustades).
No. 1030. _Moule d’Aspic à la Royale._
Cut the flesh from the breast of a poularde or large fowl into slices
the size of half-crown pieces as near as possible, cut also a large
truffle in slices, have about twenty very white button mushrooms, and
ten dressed cockscombs, boil a quart of sauce béchamel (No. 7) with a
pint of aspic, keeping it stirred until rather thick, add a little sugar
and the above ragout, shake the stewpan round and pour the whole into a
sauté-pan, which place upon the ice till firm, dip the pan in warm water
and turn it out upon a clean cloth,--it should be about a quarter of an
inch in thickness,--with an oval cutter an inch and a half long and one
broad, cut it into as many pieces as possible; have ready a flat round
mould with a cylinder, put a little aspic at the bottom, which decorate
with whites of eggs (hard-boiled) and truffles, place it on the ice and
when set dress in the fillets in crown, fill the mould with the aspic,
keep it on the ice till ready, when dip the mould in warm water and turn
it out upon your dish.
No. 1031. _Galantine de Faisan aux truffes._
Bone two pheasants if for a flanc, one if for a cold entrée, lay it out
before you and proceed exactly as for a galantine of turkey, only using
the forcemeat for game (No. 123) as directed, and fillets of hare or
rabbit instead of veal, braise and press the same, allowing for the
difference in size, serve garnished with aspic (No. 1360) chopped and in
croutons.
No. 1032. _Galantine de Faisans à la Volière._
Proceed as in the last, but press and garnish them as directed for
galantine de dinde (No. 1010), but the claws must be from a very small
lobster.
No. 1033. _Pâté de Faisans aux truffes._
Bone a couple of pheasants and fill each one as for a galantine, but not
too tight, they will not require sewing up; you have lined a raised
pie-mould with pâte fine (No. 1136), as directed (No. 997), line the pie
with forcemeat (No. 120), place one of the pheasants at the bottom,
cover it with forcemeat, then put in the other which also cover with
forcemeat, finishing in a dome; finish the pie as before directed, bake
it four hours in a slow oven, press it till cold and serve with aspic
(No. 1360) chopped and in croutons upon the top; by filling the pie up
with good strong stock when taken from the oven there would be no
necessity for pressing it.
No. 1034. _Filets de Faisans à la Prince George._
Roast three pheasants in vegetables quite white, take out the fillets,
cut each one in halves to form two, making twelve, pound well the meat
from the legs, and put it into a stewpan, with a quart of white sauce
(No. 7) and half a pint of good white stock, boil till rather thick,
then rub it through a tammie, pour into a stewpan, place over the fire,
and stir until boiling, then add a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed
with half a gill of whipped cream, stir in quickly but do not let it
boil afterwards, place it by in a basin, and when half cold dip each
fillet in with a fork, let it be quite enveloped and place them by till
quite cold; you have prepared a border of forcemeat as directed for ris
de veau à la turque (No. 673), place it on your dish and dress the
fillets in crown upon it, have ready turned and blanched a pottle of
good white button mushrooms, mix them with the remainder of the sauce,
whip half a pint of aspic (No. 1360) upon the ice till becoming very
light and white, mix it with the sauce, which dress in the centre of
your fillets and garnish round with a light border of the hearts of
lettuces.
Fillets of pheasants may also be served with a sauce macédoine de
légumes as directed (No. 98) but cold.
No. 1035. _Chaud froid de Filets de Faisans._
Proceed with the pheasants precisely as in the last, only using a sauce
gibier (No. 60) instead of the sauce béchamel, dress them in turban in
the centre of your dish, pour a little more of the sauce over, and
garnish with a border of hard-boiled eggs, placing a sprig of parsley
between.
No. 1036. _Grouse_
Like pheasants make excellent galantines and pies by following the same
receipts. They may also be dressed in either of the methods directed for
pheasants, but requiring rather less time to cook.
No. 1037. _Galantine de Grouse à la Montagnard._
Form two small grouse into galantines as directed for à la volière (No.
1032) into the shape of birds; have ready three parts cold a good sauce
à la purée de grouse (No. 59), with which envelope them, leaving it upon
them rather rough, sprinkle brown bread-crumbs and chopped pistachios
all over, dress croutons of aspic (No. 1360) round, and garnish with a
little of the heather from the mountains.
No. 1038. _Salade de Grouse à la Soyer._
Make a very thin border of fresh butter upon a convenient-sized dish,
upon which stand a very elevated border of hard-boiled eggs, (by cutting
a piece off the bottoms when quite cold and cutting each one into four
lengthwise,) fill the centre with some nice fresh salad, and ornament
the eggs with fillets of anchovies, beetroot, gherkins, &c., according
to taste; you have previously roasted three grouse rather underdone;
when quite cold cut them into neat pieces, that is, into legs, wings,
part of the backs, and each breast into six slices, then have ready the
following sauce: put two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped eschalots in a
basin, with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, the yolks of two eggs,
two tablespoonfuls of chopped tarragon and chervil, a saltspoonful of
white pepper, and two of salt, with which mix by degrees twelve
tablespoonfuls of salad oil and three of Chili vinegar; mix well
together and place it upon the ice; when ready to serve whip half a pint
of cream rather stiff, which add to the sauce, pour a little over the
salad, upon which lay some of the worst pieces of grouse, over which put
more sauce, proceeding in like manner to the top, dressing them
pyramidically. When it is for the flanc of a large dinner I only use the
fillets, roasting four or five grouse instead of three, and when you
have dressed three parts of the pieces of grouse upon the salad, build a
second row of eggs upon it, having formed a level with the pieces for
that purpose, and terminate exactly as the design represents. I must
observe that the salad is better adapted for gentlemen than ladies,
though if less eschalot were used it might also meet their
approbation.[12]
No. 1039. _Perdreaux à la Downshire._
Partridges being smaller birds are mostly used for cold entrées, but
four will make an excellent flanc; draw them and extract the
breast-bone, have ready one pound of forcemeat of game (No. 123), with
which mix six truffles cut in fillets, and thirty pieces of fat bacon
the size and shape of dice; stuff the birds, sew them up, and place them
in a stewpan with three onions in slices, a head of celery, and a bunch
of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, nearly cover them with stock, simmer
over a slow fire nearly an hour, leave them to get cold in the stock,
drain them on a cloth, and dress on your dish in the form of a cross,
with the heart of a nice cos lettuice in the centre; pass and clarify
the stock they were cooked in, adding a little isinglass, reduce to
demi-glace, and when nearly cold pour it over, but do not serve till
quite cold, garnish round with some nice fresh water-cresses.
No. 1040. _Galantine de Perdreaux à la Volière._
Proceed as directed for the pheasants (No. 1032), only using the claws
and tails of large crawfish instead of lobsters as there directed, dress
them with the four tails in the centre, and aspic (No. 1360) round; one
hour and a half would be sufficient to stew them.
Fillets of partridges are dressed in the same manner as the fillets of
pheasant (Nos. 1034 and 1035).
No. 1041. _Pâté de Perdreaux._
Have a round mould about five inches in height and four in diameter,
which line with pâte fine (No. 1136), which again line with forcemeat
(No. 123), you have previously boned two partridges, which fill as for
galantine à la volière, fold each one in a slice of bacon, lay one at
the bottom, which cover with forcemeat, then the other, which also
cover, finishing in a dome, cover with the paste, work up the edges, and
crimp as for the pâté de veau; bake it two hours in a moderate oven,
take off the cover and pour in a pint of stock in which you have stewed
the bones of the partridges, and boil half an ounce of isinglass,
previously passing it through a napkin; serve neatly garnished upon the
top with aspic (No. 1360) chopped and in croutons. It must be quite cold
previous to garnishing.
No. 1042. _Bécasses à la d’Orleans._
Roast four woodcocks underdone, catching their trails upon toasted
bread, with two others make a purée as directed (No. 59), into which
dip the four roasted ones, and let them remain till nearly cold, then
take them out and sprinkle all over with chopped ham and whites of
hard-boiled eggs; you have prepared a croustade in the form of a vase,
which stand in the centre of your dish, cut the toast in four pieces,
each the form of a diamond, dress the woodcocks round the croustade upon
each piece, dress hard-boiled eggs in a border upon the croustade, and
garnish with aspic jelly, whipped (No. 1360), chopped, and quite white,
in the interior, and in croutons round.
Pâtés of woodcocks are excellent, they are made the same as for
partridges, keeping their trails for the interior of the birds after
they are boned.
Plovers and snipes may be dressed precisely as directed for the
woodcocks.
No. 1043. _Pâté froid de Mauviettes_
Is also a very favourite dish for second course, and when well prepared
stands high in the estimation of a gourmet; the following receipt is
exactly as they are prepared at Pithiviers: pluck and bone six dozen of
larks, take out the interior, extract the gizzard, and pound the
intestines with two pounds of forcemeat (No. 123), place a little in
each bird, roll them up, and envelope them in very thin slices of fat
bacon; you have lined a raised pie-mould with paste as for pâté de veau
(No. 999), which again line with the forcemeat, place a layer of the
larks at the bottom, then a layer of forcemeat, then larks again, till
quite full, and finish with a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel
butter (No. 79), a thin slice of fat bacon, and three bay-leaves, cover
with paste and bake in a moderate oven two hours and a half, place it
by, and when half cold add a pint of good game sauce (No. 60), shake it
well in; when quite cold take off the lid, and garnish with some fresh
sprigs of parsley. At Pithiviers the pies are made square, and crimped
from top to bottom, but the shape has nothing to do with the quality,
and I consider those made in moulds look the handsomest.
Pâtés as above may be made of all small birds that are eatable.
No. 1044. _Salade de Homard à l’Indienne._
Prepare a border of hard-boiled eggs as directed for salade de grouse
(No. 1038), dress some nice fresh salad in the centre, then take the
flesh from a very fine lobster, or two middling-sized ones, cut it in as
large slices as possible, put it in a basin, and season with a little
tarragon, and chervil, pepper, and salt; dress them in pyramid upon the
salad, interspersing six mild Indian pickles in slices, and serving with
a good white sauce mayonnaise (No. 1364) over.
No. 1045. _Mayonnaise de Homard à la gelée._
Prepare a border of half hard-boiled eggs and half croutons of strong
aspic (No. 1360), cut the same height as the eggs, and triangular, dress
some salad in the centre as in the last, and the lobster well seasoned
upon the top, and sauce over with a sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No.
1361).
No. 1046. _Miroton de Homard à la Cardinale._
Cut the flesh of a large lobster into slices as large as possible, and
nearly an equal size; reduce a pint of white sauce (No. 7) (with which
you have mixed two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar) to two thirds;
then dip half the pieces of lobster into it with a fork, and place them
on a dish to cool, add two ounces of red lobster butter (No. 77) to the
remainder of the sauce, stir it well in, and dip in the remainder of the
pieces; when cold and set, dress them in crown upon salad, with a white
mayonnaise in the centre.
No. 1047. _Homard en Aspic._
Cut twenty slices of lobster as above, of equal sizes, dip them into the
white sauce as there directed, and put them by until cold; then put a
little clear aspic jelly (No. 1360) in the bottom of a flat cylinder
mould, ornament it with the whites of hard-boiled eggs cut in diamonds,
squares, leaves, and crescents, arranged in the form of wreaths,
branches, &c.; just cover with a little more jelly, and when set lay in
the slices of lobster slanting, one resting upon the other, and fill up
the mould with aspic, place it on the ice, and when firm dip the mould
in warm water, and turn the aspic out upon your dish; fill the centre
with some finely cut salad, upon which build some more lobster, which
sauce over with a sauce mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), but not to run
over the aspic.
No. 1048. _Homard au Gratin._
Procure three small lobsters, cut them down the centre, save all the
shells, and cut the flesh into small slices, put a spoonful of chopped
onions into a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, pass them over a
sharp fire a few minutes, keeping them stirred; then add a pint of white
sauce, reduce one-third, keeping it stirred, add the flesh of the
lobster, season with a little pepper, salt, cayenne, and essence of
anchovies; stir gently over a sharp fire, and when boiling take it off,
stir in the yolks of two eggs, put it into the shells, egg and
bread-crumb over, place them in a warm oven ten minutes, salamander of a
good colour, and serve very hot, dressed upon a napkin, garnished with a
few sprigs of fresh parsley.
Lobsters au gratin may also be served in silver, escalope shells if
handy are preferred.
No. 1049. _Crabs_
May be dressed in salad, like lobster, cutting the hard part into as
large slices as possible, and passing the soft through a hair sieve, and
mixing it with the sauce.
No. 1050. _Coquilles aux Huîtres._
Procure the deep shells of twelve oysters, which well clean, butter the
interior slightly, and as many bread-crumbs as will adhere to the
butter; you have previously blanched and bearded four dozen of oysters,
lay them on a cloth to drain, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot
into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, pass them a few minutes
over the fire, stir in a quarter of a tablespoonful of flour, add a pint
of oyster sauce (No. 69), reduce one third, then add your oysters,
season with a little pepper, salt, cayenne, chopped parsley, and essence
of anchovies, stir gently over the fire, and when quite hot stir in the
yolks of two eggs, stir over the fire a short time till it thickens, but
do not let it boil, then fill the shells, egg and bread-crumb over,
place in a hot oven ten minutes, salamander a nice colour, dress in
pyramid, and garnish with fried parsley.
No. 1051. _Salade de Filets de Soles._
Fillet two or three soles, then well butter a sauté-pan, lay in your
fillets, which season with a little white pepper, salt, chopped parsley,
and the juice of a lemon, place them over a slow fire, and when half
done turn them over (they must be kept quite white), when done lay them
flat upon a dish with another dish upon them till cold; cut each fillet
in halves, trim them of nice shapes, and put them in a basin with a
little chopped tarragon and chervil, chopped eschalots, pepper and salt;
then dress a salad as directed (No. 1038), dress the fillets in crown
upon the salad, and sauce over with a good mayonnaise sauce (No. 1364).
No. 1052. _Filets de Soles aux Concombres._
Fillet two soles and dress them as above, cut each fillet in halves,
then have sixteen pieces of cucumber the same size as the fillets, but
thinner, dress them in turban alternately with the fillets upon a thin
border of fresh butter, sauce over the fillets only with a sauce
mayonnaise (No. 1364) in which you have added a little whipped cream,
and dress a good salad cut rather fine in the centre. The remains of
turbot or John Dorée, may be cut into fillets and served in either of
the above methods.
Fillets of soles may also be served in aspic, or miroton à la cardinale,
as directed for lobster (Nos. 1047 and 1046).
No. 1053. _Truites marinées en mayonnaise._
Put three onions sliced in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, one
turnip, one carrot (in slices), a head of celery (cut small), a good
handful of parsley, and two bay-leaves; pass the whole ten minutes over
a sharp fire, add a pint of vinegar, a blade of mace, and half a dozen
peppercorns; let simmer, then add three pints of water; you have cleaned
three fine freshwater trout, which put in the above marinade and let
them simmer half an hour; let them get cold in the marinade, take them
out, drain upon a cloth, and dress them on your dish, the head of the
centre one pointing with the tails of the others; sauce over with a very
white mayonnaise sauce (No. 1364) into which you have put extra chopped
tarragon and chervil and a little whipped cream.
No. 1054. _Darne de Saumon marinée._
Cut two good slices from the middle of a fine salmon, four inches in
thickness, and dress them in a marinade, as for the trout, first tying
them up; stew one hour, and leave them in the marinade to cool; when
quite cold drain them on a cloth; dress on your dish, fill the centre
with Montpelière butter (No. 1366), garnish with a border of eggs, and
sauce round with a very white Tartare sauce (No. 38), and sprinkle a
little chopped gherkins over.
No. 1055. _Galantine d’Anguille._
Procure two fine eels, skin and bone them, have ready prepared some
forcemeat of whiting (No. 124), lay the eel open before you and spread
some of the forcemeat down the centre, upon which lay small fillets of
truffle, pistachios, cooked tongue, and whiting, cover with more of the
forcemeat, and sew the eel up in its original shape, cut it into two
equal parts and envelope each in thin slices of fat bacon, tie in a
napkin and place them in a stewpan in which you have prepared a marinade
as for the trout, but using half a pint of Madeira wine instead of
vinegar, stew gently half an hour or until tender, and leave it to get
cold in the stock, take out and remove them from the napkin, glaze and
place them on your dish side by side upon a stand of Montpellier butter
(No. 1366), and a little between them to hold them together; garnish
round with craw-fish and croutons of aspic (No. 1360). Six rolls of
them, each three inches high, may be dressed into what we term a
bastion, that is standing them up on end in a circle, joining them
together with Montpellier butter, and placing the half of a hard-boiled
egg cut across (to form a cap) upon each, decorated with fillets of
anchovies and very green gherkins.
VEGETABLES FOR SECOND COURSE.
Where a dish of vegetables are required for second course, if there
should be two flancs contrive to let the vegetables make one of them;
but if there should only be four dishes in the second course they may be
dressed upon one of them, as also in larger dinners, and especially when
there are a great many vegetables in season.
No. 1056. _Asparagus_
Is one of the most favourite vegetables we have, and is generally served
plain; the large grass is preferred, although the smaller is, in my
opinion, the fullest flavour for a dish; you require a hundred large
ones or a hundred and a half of small, scrape and cut them of equal
lengths, (about eight inches,) and tie them in bundles of fifteen; about
twenty minutes before ready to serve have a gallon of water, in which
you have put two ounces of salt, boiling in a stewpan, put in your
grass, let boil quickly, and when tender take it up, dress in pyramid as
high as possible upon a piece of toasted bread, and serve melted butter
(No. 71) or sauce Hollandaise in a boat.
No. 1057. _Asperges en petits Pois._
Procure a bunch of small green asparagus, or sprue, break off the green
tops carefully, avoiding the white parts, cut the tops into pieces the
size of large peas, boil them in half a gallon of water into which you
have put an ounce of salt: when tender strain them off, but be careful
they are not too much done, or they would go in purée and taste watery;
drain them dry upon a sieve and put them into a stewpan, with eight
spoonfuls of white sauce (No. 7), a little pepper, salt, and grated
nutmeg, with a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; place the stewpan upon the
fire, move them round gently, add four pats of butter, and when melted
finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a quarter of a gill
of cream; move it round over the fire, and when it thickens pour them
upon your dish and dress croutons of fried bread round; or they may be
served in a croustade of bread.
No. 1058. _Sea-Kale._
The short thick kale is the best, trim it nicely, about sixteen heads
will be sufficient for a dish, boil till tender in a gallon of water,
with two ounces of salt, take them out, place them on a clean cloth to
drain, and dress them pyramidically upon a piece of toasted bread; serve
plain melted butter separate in a boat.
No. 1059. _Céleri à la Moëlle de Bœuf._
Procure ten fine heads of celery, cut them to about seven inches in
length, (the red celery is the best,) if too thick take off some of the
outside sticks, wash and trim them nicely, blanch ten minutes in boiling
water, drain them on a cloth, put them into a convenient-sized stewpan
just covered with a good white stock, in which let them stew gently till
tender, drain them, dress upon toast, place four large pieces of marrow
round, (which you have boiled in water,) and sauce over with a pint of
good brown sauce (No. 1), which you have reduced with half a pint of the
stock the celery was stewed in, and seasoned with a little sugar.
No. 1060. _Céleri à la Chetwynd._
Trim and blanch ten fine heads of red celery, as in the last, blanch
also twelve middling-sized onions twenty minutes, place them in a
stewpan with the celery, cover with veal stock (No. 7), and stew gently
till tender, dress the celery upon toast with the onions round and sauce
over with a good white bechamel sauce (No. 7) which you have reduced
with half a pint of the stock the vegetables were cooked in till
becoming thickish, then add half a gill of very thick cream, a little
sugar, and sauce over.
No. 1061. _Salsifis à la Poulette._
Salsifis although a very favourite vegetable on the continent and very
plentiful in England, is seldom used, but I hope the following recipes
will tend to bring it more in vogue.
Choose fifteen or twenty young ones, scrape the black skin, cut them
into pieces three inches long, rub each piece with lemon and throw them
into water, then put two onions, a carrot, one turnip, and a head of
celery, all cut small into a stewpan, with a handful of parsley, a
quarter of a pound of lean ham, a little thyme, two bay-leaves, and a
quarter of a pound of beef suet chopped fine, stir it over a sharp fire
ten minutes, then add two ounces of flour, (stir well in,) fill up with
two quarts of water, with the juice of a lemon, stir it till it boils,
then put in your salsifis which stew gently till tender, take them out
and lay them upon a cloth to drain, then put a pint of white sauce (No.
7) into another stewpan, with half a pint of white stock, stir over a
sharp fire till boiling, then add twenty button mushrooms and a
teaspoonful of chopped parsley; season with a little pepper, salt,
grated nutmeg, and powdered sugar, put in the salsifis, let simmer
gently for half an hour, (the sauce must be rather thick,) take out and
dress it in two rows upon a border of mashed potatoes, finish the sauce
with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, stir
over the fire till it thickens but do not let it boil; sauce over and
serve.
No. 1062. _Salsifis à la Moëlle de Bœuf._
Prepare the salsifis as above; when very tender dress it upon your dish,
have four large pieces of beef marrow (well boiled in water), sauce over
with a good demi-glace (No. 9), garnish with croutons of fried bread in
the shape of hearts, and serve with a piece of marrow upon each.
No. 1063. _Fried Salsifis._
Cook the salsifis as before, let them get cold in the stock, then take
them out, drain upon a cloth, and trim them all of equal sizes, then put
them in a basin, with a spoonful of vinegar, four of salad oil, and a
little pepper and salt, let them marinade six hours, turning over
occasionally a quarter of an hour before serving, dip each piece
separately in a fritter batter (No. 1285) and fry them in a stewpan of
hot lard, when done lay them on a cloth and dress in pyramid upon a
napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Salsifis well cooked and tender, when cold, is very good in salad or to
ornament a mayonnaise.
No. 1064. _Concombres farcis en demi-glace._
Procure four very fine cucumbers, which cut into pieces three inches in
length, peel them and take out the seeds with a long round cutter, then
have ready some very nice forcemeat of veal (No. 120), into which you
have put a little chopped basil, thyme, and laurel leaf, put a piece of
bacon at each end, which tie on, place them in a stewpan, with a little
stock, and stew gently three quarters of an hour or till tender, then
drain them upon a cloth, trim each end, and dress in pyramid upon a
border of mashed potatoes, but be careful not to break them; sauce over
with a good demi-glace (No. 9) and serve; the forcemeat must not be too
delicate.
No. 1065. _Concombres farcis à la crème._
Proceed with the cucumbers as in the last, but sauce over with a celery
sauce à la Chetwynd (No. 1060).
No. 1066. _Croustade aux Concombres._
Prepare a plain croustade according to the size of your dish, and three
inches in height, then have four cucumbers, which cut into pieces two
inches and a half long, peel them, split each piece into three, take out
the seeds and trim them neatly, put them in a stewpan with an ounce of
butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and cover with white stock, let them
stew till tender, drain them upon the back of a sieve; in another
stewpan have a pint of good bechamel sauce (No. 7), which reduce till
rather thick, then add the cucumber and a little powdered sugar, place
on the fire, and when boiling finish with a liaison of one yolk of egg
mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream: place the croustade upon your
dish, pour the ragout into it, and serve.
No. 1067. _Vegetable Marrows._
Are excellent when young and about the size of turkeys’ eggs; peel
fifteen and boil them in half a gallon of water, into which you have put
two ounces of butter and two ounces of salt, boil twenty minutes, or
till quite tender, drain them upon a cloth, and dress upon a border of
mashed potatoes, in the form of an oval dome; sauce over with a pint of
good melted butter (No. 71), with which you have introduced a liaison
of two yolks of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream. All sauces for
vegetables require to be rather thick, as it is impossible to drain the
vegetables quite dry to serve them hot. Vegetable marrows dressed as
above may also be served with a white sauce à l’Italienne (No. 31).
No. 1068. _Jerusalem Artichokes._
Are very useful vegetables when judiciously employed, as my readers will
perceive by many of the foregoing recipes; they are good five months in
the year, from October till March, and some seasons much longer; when
they become too rough they have lost their succulence, and are only fit
to flavour stocks: take about thirty of the best shaped ones and as near
as possible of the same size; turn them into the shape of pears, boil in
salt and water, with which you have put a quarter of a pound of butter;
when tender take them out, drain them upon a cloth, and dress in the
form of a dome; sauce over with melted butter (No. 71), sauce
Hollandaise (No. 66), sauce bechamel (No. 7), sauce ravigote (No. 44),
or sauce tomate (No. 37).
No. 1069. _Cauliflowers and Brocoli._
Both vegetables are very excellent and universally employed; they
require great particularity in cleaning; the best way is to throw plenty
of salt over them and put them in cold water till ready to cook, boil
them in salt and water till tender, but not too much done or they will
not hold together; the heads should not be too large, and the best are
close and firm; when done dress some nice green Brussels sprouts upon a
border of mashed potatoes with the cauliflowers in the centre, mix
nearly half a pint of good white sauce (No. 7), with the same quantity
of melted butter (No. 71), and when hot add a liaison of one yolk of egg
mixed with two spoonfuls of cream; sauce over and serve; they may also
be served with a sauce à la maître d’hôtel (No. 43).
No. 1070. _Chouxfleurs au Parmesan._
Boil three cauliflowers as before, and when done drain them upon a
cloth, then put a pint of good white sauce (No. 7) in a stewpan, with
half a pint of milk, season with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne,
reduce it over a sharp fire till getting thick, add half a pound of
grated Parmesan cheese and a quarter of a pound of grated Gruyer, mix
well and stir in two yolks of eggs, then put a little at the bottom of
your dish, dress some of the cauliflower in pieces upon it, which again
cover with sauce, proceeding thus till you have formed a dome, finishing
with the sauce all over, egg and bread-crumb lightly, put it in a warm
oven a quarter of an hour, salamander of a light brown colour, and
serve.
No. 1071. _Artichokes._
Are very great favourites with most epicures, and their flavour renders
them worthy of so high an appreciation.
Have six not over large but of a very good size, trim the bottoms rather
close till it shows the white streak, cut also an inch from the top with
a pair of scissors, and a little off the point of each leaf, have a
gallon of water (into which you have put half a pound of salt,) boiling,
put in the artichokes and boil one hour, or till you can pull out a leaf
with facility, take them up, lay them upon a cloth to drain, upside
down, dress them upon a napkin, and serve with melted butter separate in
a boat; they may be boiled previously and kept in cold water till
wanted, and are ready by merely dipping them in boiling water.
No. 1072. _Artichokes à la Barigoule._
Trim your artichokes as above and blanch twenty minutes, place them in
cold water, then scoop out the interior with the handle of a spoon and
your fingers, taking out every particle from the interior, have some fat
in a stewpan very hot, into which dip the tops of the artichokes till of
a yellow colour, then put them back upon the cloth; you have scraped a
quarter of a pound of fat bacon, which put into a stewpan, with four
tablespoonfuls of oil, four of chopped onions and eschalots, two of
chopped mushrooms, and one of chopped parsley, a little thyme, two
bay-leaves, and a little pepper, salt, and sugar; pass the whole ten
minutes over a moderate fire, then add a pint of brown sauce (No. 1),
boil twenty minutes, stir in two spoonfuls of bread-crumbs and set it in
a cold place; when cold mix it again and put an equal proportion in each
artichoke; tie a square piece of fat bacon a quarter of an inch in
thickness upon each, tie them across with string and put them into a
flat stewpan, with three pints of good stock, set them in a moderate
oven to braise for about three quarters of an hour, or till you can take
a leaf out with facility, then take them out, drain them on a cloth,
take off the string and bacon, and dress them upon your dish four at the
bottom and two at the top, with two spoonfuls of demi-glace (No. 9) in
each. For the amateur who does not object to the flavour of onions,
dressed in the above manner they are most appreciated.
No. 1073. _Artichauts à la Bordelaise._
Proceed exactly as above, but filling them with the following sauce
(instead of the sauce there mentioned): peel thirty large button onions
and cut them in rings, put them in a stewpan with a little oil, and fry
of a light yellow colour, add half a pint of white sauce (No. 7), and
two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, mix well, then add eighteen stoned
olives, and the fillets of four anchovies well washed, stew till all is
well cooked, then season with a little pepper, sugar, and a piece of
scraped garlic the size of a pea, fill the artichokes, and when done
serve with a little white sauce in each.
No. 1074. _Artichauts à l’Italienne._
Take four good artichokes, cut them in quarters and trim them well,
cutting all the green from the bottoms and taking out all the fur from
the interior, put them in a stewpan of boiling water (to blanch) a
quarter of an hour; then take them out, drain them upon a cloth, put a
tablespoonful of chopped onions in a sauté-pan with a tablespoonful of
oil, and one of wine, pass them one minute over the fire, then put in
the artichokes, which cover with brown sauce and a little stock, stew
them gently over a moderate fire till you can pull out a leaf with
facility, take them out and dress in turban upon a border of mashed
potatoes, put a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms into the sauté-pan,
reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, season with a little sugar and
salt if required, sauce over and serve.
No. 1075. _Artichauts au Velouté._
Prepare the artichokes as above, and blanch them, put an ounce of butter
in a sauté-pan, lay in the artichokes, which cover with a good white
sauce (No. 7); place a lid upon the sauté-pan, and put them in a
moderate oven till done, then take out the artichokes, which dress in
turban as above; put a little milk in the sauté-pan, reduce the sauce
till rather thickish, add a little sugar, and finish with a liaison of
two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream, pass through a tammie and
sauce over.
No. 1074. _Artichaux à la Bruxellaise._
Dress a border of artichokes as in the last, upon a border of mashed
potatoes, and have ready a quart of very nice Brussel sprouts dressed à
la maître d’hôtel (No. 1083), which dress in pyramid in the centre. This
dish can only be served in the autumn season of the year, as it is only
then both vegetables can be obtained.
No. 1075. _Peas._
The best of all green vegetables, and the delight of millions, whilst
their profusion renders them attainable by all; like the asparagus, they
belong to that season of flavour, the spring of the year, but remain in
season till a much later period; when young the English method of
cooking them is good, because the more succulence there is in a
vegetable the less zest they require to make them palatable. To describe
the different sorts would be almost an endless, and to a certain extent
a useless task, but the Prussian blues are, in my opinion, the very
best; to plain boil them, have two quarts of fresh-shelled peas, with a
sprig of young mint, about ten leaves (the greatest fault with most
people is putting too much), have a gallon of water boiling upon the
fire, in which you have put two ounces of salt, when boiling put in your
peas, let them boil as fast as possible from ten to fifteen minutes, try
whether they are tender, if so strain them through a cullender, dress
them upon your dish with two pats of butter upon the top and serve; or
when drained put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh
butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a good teaspoonful of powdered
sugar, place over a fire, and keep tossing them until the butter is
melted, dress them either plain upon your dish or in a bread croustade.
No. 1076. _Pois au sucre Anglo-Français._
When you have boiled and drained two quarts of young peas, put them in a
stewpan with six young green onions in a bunch, six spoonfuls of white
sauce, a little pepper and salt, and two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar,
let simmer ten minutes, then stir in a liaison of two yolks of eggs
mixed with half a gill of cream, do not let them boil, but when the
sauce becomes thickish and hangs to the peas turn them out upon your
dish and serve, previously taking out the onions.
No. 1077. _Pois au sucre à la Française._
The manner of dressing peas directed in the last keeps them very green,
which the French style does not, unless very young, but to balance,
their flavour is superior; and although the eye must be pleased to a
certain extent, my principal business is with the palate.
Put two quarts of young peas in a good-sized stewpan with six young
onions, a bunch of parsley, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter;
just cover the peas with cold water and rub them well together with the
hands, pour off all the water, add a good bunch of parsley, a
tablespoonful of sugar, and a teaspoonful of salt; set the stewpan upon
a sharp fire, moving them round very often, if young twenty minutes is
quite sufficient, but when tender they are done (if they should become
too dry add a very little water), when done take out the onions and the
bunch of parsley; you have previously mixed a tablespoonful of flour
with two ounces of fresh butter, mix well with the peas, stir them over
the fire till they become thickish, then add a liaison of two yolks of
eggs (mixed with half a pint of milk or cream), season a little more if
required, stir the liaison in quickly, do not let it boil, and when it
thickens they are ready to serve, they must not, however, be too thick
or too thin.
No. 1078. _French Beans._
Cut enough young beans into strips to make a good flanc dish; have a
stewpan with a gallon of water in which you have put a quarter of a
pound of salt, when boiling put in the beans, which boil very fast till
tender; when done strain them off, lay a bed of them upon your dish,
upon which lay two pats of butter, sprinkle them over with pepper and
salt, then more beans, proceeding thus till you have formed a pyramid,
serve very hot.
No. 1079. _Haricots verts sauté au buerre._
When boiled as above, put them in a stewpan with six ounces of fresh
butter, season with a little chopped parsley, sugar, pepper, and salt;
toss them over a sharp fire, and when quite hot dress them in pyramid.
No. 1080. _Haricots verts aux fines herbes._
Boil the beans as before, when boiled put two spoonfuls of chopped
onions in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, pass them a few
minutes over the fire, keeping them quite white, add a spoonful of flour
(stir well in) and a pint of good white stock, boil until it adheres to
the back of a spoon; then add your beans, toss them well together, add a
teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, a little pepper,
salt, and sugar, finish with six pats of butter, and four spoonfuls of
liaison (No. 119), dress them as high as possible upon the dish, or in a
croustade of bread.
No. 1081. _Haricots verts à la Poulette._
Boil the beans as before, when done drain them quite dry, put them into
a stewpan with three parts of a pint of béchamel sauce (No. 7), six
spoonfuls of stock, pepper, salt, sugar, a bunch of green onions, and
parsley; stew gently ten minutes, take out the bunch, add a teaspoonful
of chopped parsley, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed
with a gill of cream, stir in quickly, and when it begins to thicken
serve as in the last.
No. 1082. _Brussels Sprouts sauté au beurre._
The small firm ones are the best; boil a sufficient quantity in salt and
water about twenty minutes, or till tender, as directed for the beans;
when done put them in a stewpan, with a little pepper, salt, and sugar,
a quarter of a pound of butter, and the juice of a lemon, when quite hot
dress them as high as possible upon your dish.
No. 1083. _Brussels Sprouts à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Boil a sufficient quantity of sprouts as before, and dress them upon
your dish in pyramid; then put a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, let
boil, and whilst boiling add a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel
butter (No. 79), stir it in quickly and sauce over, or sauce them in
layers as you dress them up.
No. 1084. _Choux de Bruxelles à la Crème en turban de Concombres._
Make a turban of cucumbers, cut and dressed as directed (No. 103), form
the turban upon a border of mashed potatoes; boil sufficient Brussel
sprouts, which dress in pyramid, sauce over the cucumbers with a good
sauce Hollandaise (No. 66), and over the sprouts with a good sauce
béchamel (No. 7), but not too thick, so that the Brussel sprouts may
show through it; they may likewise be dressed in a border of Jerusalem
artichokes, which gives a great variety to those favourite vegetables;
peas and French beans may also be dressed in a turban of the above
description.
No. 1087. _Spinach_
Is a very wholesome and digestible vegetable, excellent for invalids,
but still more so for those in good health, because an invalid can only
have it plain-dressed, whilst a person in health can enjoy it in any of
the tasty ways in which it is dressed. Pick and wash it very clean in
three or four waters, for as nothing is worse than spinach when gritty,
so likewise there is nothing more troublesome to get quite clean, from
its growing so near the earth; boil in plenty of salt and water about a
quarter of an hour, then drain it through a sieve, and squeeze quite dry
with a cloth, chop very fine (which I consider is better than passing
through a wire sieve), put it in a stewpan with half a pound of fresh
butter, pepper, salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little grated
nutmeg, stir five minutes over a sharp fire, pour it out upon your dish,
and serve with croutons of fried bread round; the above proportion is
for half a sieve.
No. 1088. _Epinards au jus._
Proceed exactly as above, adding half a tablespoonful of flour, and when
well mixed half a pint of good demi-glace (No. 9), glaze the croutons
which you garnish with and serve.
No. 1089. _Epinards à la Française._
When your spinach is well chopped put it into a stewpan with a quarter
of a pound of fresh butter, stir over the fire till quite hot, then add
a tablespoonful of flour; season with a little pepper, salt, sugar, and
grated nutmeg, mix well, then add half a pint of good stock, stir ten
minutes over the fire, add a quarter of a pound more butter, after
taking it from the fire; when melted pour it out upon your dish and
serve as before. The old system was to make a roux, which frequently
got rather overdone, and gave the spinach more the flavour of sauce,
thus destroying the aroma; but the flour, if added proportionably, gives
no flavour, and slightly thickens.
No. 1090. _Epinards au sucre._
Prepare the spinach as before and put it into a stewpan, with a quarter
of a pound of butter and a little pepper and salt; when quite hot add a
tablespoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of milk, boil
a few minutes, and when ready to serve stir in a quarter of a pound of
butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, serve as before.
No. 1091. _Endive au jus._
In France this vegetable (which is mostly used in England for salads) is
as popular for entrées and entremets as spinach, its bitterness
rendering it very wholesome. Procure twelve heads, pick off all the
green leaves, wash each head in two or three waters, and boil them in
salt and water till tender, then put them in a basin of cold water,
press every one; cut off the roots and chop the remainder fine, but not
quite so fine as spinach, put it in a stewpan, place over the fire, and
stir until becoming rather dry; then add half a pint of good brown
sauce, and a piece of veal glaze the size of a walnut, season with a
little pepper, salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and dress in a croustade
of bread, or within a border of croutons of fried bread, which you have
stuck upright upon your dish with a stiffish paste made from whites of
eggs and flour; put the dish in the oven till the paste is set, and if
desired, serve poached eggs upon the top.
No. 1092. _Sorrel._
Is more used as a sauce for entrées than as an entremet, the spring of
the year is the only time it can be used for second course; pick and
well wash a sufficient quantity of sorrel, drain and put it into a
stewpan without any water, stir over the fire till it is melted, then
lay it upon the back of a hair sieve, and with a wooden spoon rub it
through into a dish; then put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a
pound of butter and a spoonful of flour, mix well, season with a little
pepper and salt, and half a pint of good stock, let boil; then take it
from the fire and stir in four new-laid eggs separately, stirring a
minute over the fire after each, then add three pats of butter, and
serve as in the last, or in a deep silver dish, with eight poached eggs
upon the top, or use for entrées if required.
No. 1091. _Laitue braisée à la Pensionnaire._
Procure twenty fine young cabbage-lettuces, pick off some of the outside
leaves, wash the lettuces well, and blanch them in plenty of water till
tender, then throw them into cold water, press in a cloth; tie up, put
them in a stewpan with a little good stock, and braise in a moderate
oven or over a moderate fire half an hour, then take them out and drain
them upon a cloth, turn half the point of the green leaf over to give an
oval shape, arrange them in a sauté-pan, cover with a good demi-glace
(No. 9), and put them into the oven; poach twelve eggs, then make a
border of mashed potatoes upon your dish, upon which dress the eggs and
lettuces alternately, showing a little of the white, sauce over with a
good sauce fines herbes (No. 26) and serve.
No. 1094. _Laitues farcis._
Prepare twenty fine lettuces, blanch them ten minutes in boiling water,
throw them in cold water, press them in a cloth, then take out some of
the interior, and fill with some forcemeat (No. 120) with which you
have mixed some chopped parsley and mushrooms; tie them up and braise as
above three quarters of an hour, take them up, drain, and serve with a
sauce demi-glace (No. 9) over them.
No. 1095. _Fèves de Marais._
When young are very delicate, take two quarts directly they are shelled
and boil them nearly ten minutes in salt and water, try if done, drain
them upon a sieve, then put them in a stewpan, pour half a pint of good
sauce maître d’hôtel (No. 43) over, and add a little chopped tarragon
and powdered sugar, and serve. They are also very good plain boiled,
with a few pats of butter laid over them.
No. 1096. _White Haricots Beans._
There is perhaps no white vegetable more in vogue in France than this,
but although so well appreciated there and eaten by many English
gourmets, they never think of having them dressed at home; it is true
that the haricot in France is what the potato is in England, when in
their prime and just taken from their shells, there are a great many
epicures who would not dine without them. The reason I so strongly
recommend them is because I have seen thousands of them in noblemen’s
gardens, many of which are quite spoiled, and some dried for the winter
season, when they might be dressed and eaten in their prime; I think,
however, that when my readers know the simplicity of dressing them, and
their moderate expense, they will at least give them a trial. They are
very numerous about the month of September, but when old and dry I do
not recommend them, they being very hard of digestion, and only fit to
be used dry as directed in other parts of this work.
Have one quart of them fresh shelled, have also two quarts of water
boiling, in which you have put two ounces of butter and a little salt,
put in your beans and boil them about half an hour, or till tender,
drain quite dry upon a sieve, then put them in another stewpan with a
quarter of a pound of butter, a little pepper and salt, toss them a few
minutes over the fire, and when very hot turn them out upon your dish
and serve.
No. 1097. _Haricots blancs à la Brétonne._
Boil the beans as in the last, then put two tablespoonfuls of chopped
onions in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, stir over the fire till
they become rather yellowish, then add half a pint of brown sauce (No.
1) and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; boil a few minutes, then
add the beans, drain quite dry, season rather high, and when quite hot
pour them upon your dish and serve.
No. 1098. _Haricots blancs à la Maître d’Hôtel._
Boil the beans as before, and when done drain quite dry and put them
into a stewpan with six ounces of maître d’hôtel butter (No. 79); toss
them over, add a little more seasoning if required, and serve when quite
hot. They may also be served plain boiled with a little butter upon
them.
No. 1099. _Tomates au gratin._
Take ten fine tomatas not too ripe, cut a little from the top of each,
press out the pips and juice, but do not break the skins or press away
any of the flesh; fill the interior with a sauce as directed for
artichauts à la barigoule (No. 1072), stand them in a sauté-pan, egg and
bread-crumb all over, stand them in a hot oven a quarter of an hour,
salamander of a good colour, and dress them pyramidically upon your
dish.
No. 1100. _Tomates à la Piémontaise._
Proceed as above, but using a little garlic (scraped) in the sauce,
likewise put a little salad-oil in the sauté-pan which serve under them.
No. 1101. _Mushrooms plain broiled._
Choose them rather large and black underneath, peel the skin from the
top, and broil over a sharp fire, seasoning with pepper and salt; when
done, place a small piece of butter upon each and serve; ten minutes is
sufficient time to broil good-sized ones.
No. 1102. _Mushrooms farcis._
Procure twelve middling-sized mushrooms, scoop out part of the interior,
make a good sauce aux fines herbes (No. 26) very thick, to which add the
interior of the mushrooms, and a few bread-crumbs; fill your mushrooms,
egg and bread-crumb over, place them in a sauté-pan in the oven twenty
minutes, salamander a light colour and serve on a napkin.
No. 1103. _Croute aux champignons._
Procure a very fresh pottle of white mushrooms, which peel and trim,
pass a few chopped onions in a stewpan with a small piece of butter (do
not let them get brown), add a pint of sauce béchamel (No. 7); when
boiling put in the mushrooms (raw), let simmer half an hour, season with
a little salt, pepper, and sugar, and finish with a liaison of two yolks
of eggs mixed with half a gill of cream, move round over the fire till
it thickens, dress them upon your dish in the crust of a French roll,
scooped out and fried for that purpose, and sauce over.
No. 1104. _Young Carrots in their glaze._
Scrape forty young carrots, which put into a stewpan with a teaspoonful
of sugar, four young onions, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf; just
cover with a good white stock and stew till the carrots are tender, then
take them out and dress in the form of a dome by sticking them into
mashed potatoes; strain the stock they were stewed in through a napkin
into a stewpan, add to it half a pint of brown sauce (No. 1), and reduce
till it adheres to the back of the spoon, then add two pats of butter,
sauce all over and serve.
No. 1105. _Young Turnips in their glaze._
Proceed exactly as for the carrots, only using white sauce instead of
brown, and finishing with a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a
spoonful of cream.
No. 1106. _Oignons Printaniers au Sirop dorée._
Peel about forty spring onions, each about the size of a walnut, put
them into a stewpan, with one ounce of butter and one of powdered sugar,
toss them occasionally over the fire, (but be careful not to break the
outer skin,) until covered with a light glaze; cover with a white stock
and stew very gently till quite done, drain them upon a cloth, dress
neatly upon a border of mashed potatoes, reduce and skim the stock till
nearly a glaze, add two pats of butter, sauce over and serve.
No. 1107. _Macédoine de Légumes Printanières._
Stew ten onions, ten carrots, and ten turnips, as directed in the
preceding articles, dress them upon a border of mashed potatoes in three
separate rows, have ready a white macédoine de légumes (No. 98), in
which you have introduced some peas and asparagus heads nicely
blanched, which dress in the centre as high as possible, and sauce over
the vegetables with their stock reduced to a thin glaze.
No. 1108. _Pommes de Terre a la Maître d’Hôtel._
For dressing in sauce there is no potato to equal the French red kidney
potato, which will keep as it is cut, whilst a round mealy potato would
crumble to pieces, but being rather difficult to procure obtain some
waxy kidney potatoes, which boil and stand by to get cold, then peel and
cut them in slices, which put in a stewpan, with a little pepper, salt,
and about half a pint of stock, set them upon the fire, let them boil
two or three minutes, then add (if a sufficient quantity for a flanc
dish) three quarters of a pound of fresh butter, keep shaking the
stewpan round over the fire till the butter is melted, it will thus form
its own sauce, finish with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and the
juice of a lemon, turn out upon your dish and serve. The potatoes
require to be cut in slices the size of a halfpenny, but double the
thickness; if not able to obtain the proper potatoes use melted butter
instead of stock to boil them in, or having no consistence they would
form a purée.
No. 1109. _Pommes de Terre sautées au beurre._
Cut your potatoes after boiling them as above, put half a pound of
butter in a sauté-pan, let it melt, then put in the potatoes, fry a
light yellow colour, season with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice;
dress them upon a napkin and serve.
No. 1110. _Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise._
Cut your potatoes as above, then put three quarters of a pound of butter
in a sauté-pan, with thirty button onions cut in rings, place them upon
the fire and when becoming yellowish put in your potatoes, season with
chopped parsley, salt, lemon-juice, and a good pinch of black pepper;
when rather yellow and quite hot, serve.
No. 1111. _Lentilles_
Are only used in the winter, they are dried; put one quart of them in
warm water, and let them soak two hours, then put them in a stewpan,
with three quarts of water, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little
salt, let them simmer two hours, but they may require either more or
less time, as that depends entirely upon the quality, there being two
sorts, the smaller ones being the best. This perhaps is the only dish of
vegetables that we have inherited from the ancients. Century after
century have they been in vogue; they are mentioned in Scripture, and
several of our great masters have immortalized that ancient dish in some
of their most celebrated pictures; although not much in vogue in
England, in France and upon the continent they are much used, especially
in Lent. When boiled tender drain them upon a sieve, put them into a
stewpan, with a little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
and a quarter of a pound of butter, with which you have mixed a
teaspoonful of flour; keep tossing them over upon a sharp fire, and when
quite hot dress in a croustade or within a border of mashed potatoes, as
they would not look well dressed flat.
No. 1112. _Lentilles à la Comte au riz._
Cook your lentils as above, then put four pats of butter in a stewpan,
with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, pass them a few minutes over
the fire, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, mix well and moisten
with a little of the liquor from the lentils, boil two minutes keeping
it stirred, then add your lentils and a little chopped parsley, boil
altogether and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with
half a gill of cream, stir in quickly and when it thickens serve as in
the last.
No. 1113. _Truffles._
Périgord is the only place renowned throughout the world as the
favourite soil for this recherché vegetable, and our celebrated
diplomatist, Talleyrand de Périgord, was indeed a worthy owner, for he
was not only a great diplomatist but likewise a great gourmet. Having an
interview with any distinguished personage upon any question of
political importance, after patiently hearing, his usual reply was, I
will consider of it after dinner; perhaps your excellency will favour me
with a call to-morrow morning;--and ringing the bell often call for his
bill of fare and order some of his most favourite dishes. But in
eulogizing Talleyrand and the produce of his estate I must not forget to
mention that the truffles of Piedmont though partly white are very
excellent, likewise in Burgundy, and many very good ones are now found
in the southern counties of England, especially in Hampshire, but none
are equal to those from Périgord. The white are dressed the same as the
black.
No. 1114. _Truffes au vin de Champagne._
Soak twelve large truffles in lukewarm water two hours, then with a
rather hard scrubbing-brush clean them well in two or three waters,
picking the dirt from the eyes with a small pointed knife, when
thoroughly clean cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of fat bacon,
one carrot, one turnip, two onions, (cut in slices,) a bunch of parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, and one blade of mace, put in the
truffles, which half cover with some good white stock, let simmer half
an hour, then add half a pint of champagne, simmer another half hour,
but be sure the cover of the stewpan fits tight, take off the stewpan
and surround it with ice with a weight upon the cover; when quite cold
drain and serve upon a napkin. None but the black truffles ought to be
dressed in the above manner. I generally serve their liquor, which is
excellent, in a sauce-boat with them. Season a little more if required.
No. 1115. _Croute aux Truffes._
Wash them as in the last and peel lightly with a knife, cut them into
thin slices, put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, then your
truffles, which season rather highly with pepper, salt, and two glasses
of sherry, set them over a slow fire, turning them over occasionally;
when tender and becoming glazy add a pint of demi-glace (No. 9), shake
all round together over the fire a few minutes, add a little sugar, and
serve them over four crusts, thus: cut two French rolls in halves
lengthwise, scoop out the crumb, butter the crusts and broil them,
glaze, lay them upon your dish and pour the truffles over.
No. 1116. _Truffes en croustade à l’Italienne._
Cut and fry a very pretty croustade of bread, dress it upon your dish,
sauté your truffles as in the last, pour them into the croustade and
sauce over with a white Italienne sauce (No. 31).
No. 1117. _Truffes demi Piémontaise._
Procure some truffles as large as possible, wash and peel as before, cut
them in slices and put them into a sauté-pan, with six tablespoonfuls of
salad oil, fry very gently, add two pieces of bruised garlic, a glass of
sherry, and six spoonfuls of tomata sauce (No. 37), mix altogether well,
boil gently, add a little sugar and juice of lemon, and serve them in
your dish upon a piece of toasted bread.
No. 1118. _Truffes à la Dino._
If you should have some of the truffes au vin de champagne left from a
previous dinner, scoop out the interior so as to leave them quite
shells, chop what you have taken from them rather coarse, with a few
mushrooms, mix them with a quarter of a pound of forcemeat of fowl (No.
122), season well, and fill each truffle with it, egg them all over and
cover with some chopped truffles, braise them slowly in some good stock
for one hour, and serve with a sauce à la purée de truffes (No. 53)
under them.
No. 1119. _Omelette aux fines herbes._
Break eight eggs in a stewpan, to which add a teaspoonful of very finely
chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, half ditto of salt, a pinch
of pepper, and three good tablespoonfuls of cream, beat them well
together, then put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan, stand it
over a sharp fire, and as soon as the butter is hot pour in the eggs,
stir them round quickly with a spoon until delicately set, then shake
the pan round, leave it a moment to colour the omelette, hold the pan in
a slanting position, just tap it upon the stove to bring the omelette to
a proper shape, and roll the flap over with a spoon, turn it upon your
dish, glaze lightly, and serve with a quarter of a pint of good
demi-glace (No. 9) round; omelettes must not be too much done, and must
be served as soon as done.
No. 1120. _Omelette au Jambon._
Break eight eggs, season, beat and fry as above, but adding two ounces
of lean cooked ham, minced and chopped with the eggs, and using but half
the quantity of salt, glaze and sauce round precisely as above.
No. 1121. _Omelette aux Truffes._
Make an omelette as for fines herbes, with the addition of two preserved
truffles chopped very fine, have also three middling-sized truffles cut
in slices, reduce half a pint of sauce demi-glace (No. 9) one third, add
a little sugar and the truffles, boil three minutes, have the omelette
fried in the pan, and when just ready to turn out upon the dish, put the
truffles in the centre, with some of the sauce, turn the flap over with
a spoon, turn on to your dish, glaze, and pour the remainder of the
sauce round.
No. 1122. _Omelette aux Champignons._
Proceed exactly as for the last, merely substituting mushrooms for the
truffles.
No. 1123. _Omelette aux Olives._
Boil half a pint of sauce demi-glace (No. 9) in a stewpan, reduce it one
third, then add twelve stoned olives, and a little sugar; make an
omelette as for fines herbes, put the olives in the interior, glaze, and
sauce round.
No. 1124. _Omelette à la Jardinière._
Prepare rather more than half a pint of sauce à la jardinière (No. 100),
have it hot in a stewpan, then make an omelette as before, and when
ready to turn upon your dish put some of the sauce in the centre; glaze
the omelette, pour the remainder of the sauce round, and serve.
No. 1125. _Omelette aux Huîtres._
Put half a pint of good oyster sauce (No. 69) in a stewpan, let it be
well seasoned, reduce it one third, add twelve or sixteen blanched
oysters, let boil up, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed
with a tablespoonful of cream; do not let it boil; when it thickens
have an omelette as in the last; pour the sauce over, glaze, and serve.
No. 1126. _Omelette aux filets de Soles._
Put half a pint of good thick oyster sauce in a stewpan upon the fire;
you have previously filleted a middling-sized sole, cut each fillet into
six or eight small pieces, and when the sauce boils throw them in, boil
three minutes, finish the sauce with a liaison, and proceed as in the
last.
No. 1127. _Omelettes aux Moules._
Proceed exactly as for omelette aux huîtres, but using muscles and sauce
(see No. 70) instead of oysters.
No. 1128. _Omelette de Homard._
Make about half a pint of nice red lobster sauce (No. 68), into which
put the flesh of a small lobster cut in dice; when hot have ready an
omelette as before, put some of the sauce in the interior, turn out upon
your dish, glaze, and pour the remainder of the sauce round.
No. 1129. _Omelette au Sucre._
Break eight eggs into a stewpan, into which put a teaspoonful of sugar
and four tablespoonfuls of cream; put two ounces of butter in an
omelette-pan when quite hot, but not discoloured, pour in the eggs, and
proceed as for the omelette aux fines herbes (No. 1119), turn out upon
your dish, shake some powdered sugar over, salamander a nice colour, and
serve.
No. 1130. _Omelette au Confiture._
Make an omelette precisely as in the last, and just before turning it
upon your dish put two or three spoonfuls of jam or marmalade in the
centre, sugar over, salamander, and serve.
No. 1131. _Omelette au Rhum._
The same as the last, but the moment of going to table pour three
glasses of rum round and set it on fire.
Sweet omelettes may also be served with apricots passed in sugar or
rhubarb, as directed in Nos. 1142, 1184; for the remainder of entremets
of eggs, see Kitchen at Home.
ENTREMETS.
_Observations upon Pastry._
Although the art of making pastry is very nearly as old as the world,
having been the delight of the ancients, and of the sensual inhabitants
of Asia, it is only within the last twenty years that it has attained
any degree of perfection, which is partly due to the talent and
intelligence of my illustrious compatriot and confrère, CAREME, who has
left little or no room for innovation in that vast field of culinary
delight; but I shall endeavour as much as possible to simplify the
present excellent system, and introduce as much novelty as I can into
that department, which is considered the greatest ornament of the second
course; I must here likewise observe that as ages change so also do the
fashions. Fifteen years ago large ornamental pieces, (or pièces
montées,) were very much in vogue, but at the present time I know many
epicures that would object to sit down before those once favorite
monuments, or colossal sugar ornaments, the modern table embellishments
having very properly fallen into the hands of the silversmith.
Simplicity, the mother of elegance, being now the order of the day.
_Of different sorts of Paste._
The variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to soups
and sauces, and must be very properly first described, particularly as
it is here to which I must refer my readers for paste even used for the
hors-d’œuvres and entrées; to succeed you must be particular in your
proportions, and very careful in the mixing, for although there is
nothing more simple if pains be taken, so will the least neglect produce
a failure, nor is it only with the making of the paste that pains must
be taken, but likewise with the baking, for as paste badly made would
not improve in baking, neither will paste, however well made, be good if
badly baked; should the oven be too hot the paste would become set and
burn before it was done; and, again, if too cold it would give the paste
a dull heavy appearance, but an oven properly heated (which can be
readily known by a little attention on the part of those in the habit of
using it) will give it a clear brilliant appearance.
For every description of pastry made from puff paste, try if the oven is
hot by placing your hand about half way in, and hold it there about a
quarter of a minute, if you can hold it there that time without
inconvenience it would not be hot enough, but if you cannot judge of the
heat, the safest method would be, try a piece of the paste previous to
baking the whole; I apply these few observations to all my readers, but
particularly to the uninstructed, as a person of continual practice
cannot fail to be aware of the truth of them.
No. 1132. _Puff Paste._
Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre
in which put the yolk of one egg and the juice of a lemon, with a pinch
of salt, mix it with cold water (iced in summer, if convenient) into a
softish flexible paste, with the right hand dry it off a little with
flour until you have well cleared the paste from the slab, but do not
work it more than you can possibly help, let remain two minutes upon the
slab; then have a pound of fresh butter from which you have squeezed all
the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same consistency as the
paste, upon which place it; press it out with the hand, then fold the
paste in three so as to hide the butter, and roll it with the
rolling-pin to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, thus making it
about two feet in length, fold over one third, over which again pass the
rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a square,
place it with the ends top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour
both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as
before; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice or in some
cool place (but in summer it would be almost impossible to make this
paste well without ice) for half an hour, then roll twice more, turning
it as before, place again upon the ice a quarter of an hour, give it two
more rolls, making seven in all, and it is ready for use when required,
rolling it whatever thickness (according to what you intend making)
directed in the following receipts. When I state that upwards of a
hundred different kinds of cakes may be made from this paste, I am sure
it will be quite sufficient to urge upon every cook the necessity of
paying every attention to its fabrication, as it will repay for the
study and trouble.
No. 1133. _Puff Paste with Beef Suet._
Where you cannot obtain good butter for making paste, the following is
an excellent substitute: skin and chop one pound of kidney beef suet
very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, moistening with a
little oil, until becoming as it were one piece, and about the
consistency of butter, proceed exactly as in the last using it instead
of butter.
No. 1134. _Half Puff Paste._
Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab with two ounces of butter,
rub well together with the hands, make a hole in the centre, in which
put a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg with the juice of a lemon;
mix with water as before, then roll it out thin and lay half a pound of
butter (prepared as for puff paste) rolled into thin sheets over, fold
it in three, roll and fold again twice over, lay it in a cold place a
quarter of an hour, give another roll and it is ready for use where
required; this paste is mostly used for fruit tarts, for which it is
well adapted.
No. 1135.[13] _Pâte à dresser._
Put three pounds of the best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in
the centre, in which put a pound of butter, half an ounce of salt, and
the yolks of six eggs; the butter must not be too firm, add half a pint
of water, squeeze all well together with your hand, mixing the flour in
by degrees, tearing well to pieces with the right hand, holding it with
the left until it forms a smooth but stiffish paste, but if so stiff
that you cannot work it without cracking, press out flat with your hand,
sprinkle water upon it, fold over, press out again, proceeding in like
manner until you have obtained the consistency required; you must also
be careful not to make it too soft, as in either case you would not be
able to use it. This paste must not be too much worked after it is mixed
or it would become greasy; more care must be exercised in summer than in
winter in this respect, it is used for raised pies either hot or cold.
No. 1136. _Pâte fine or Pâte à foncer._
Put three pounds of best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the
centre, in which put an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, six
eggs, and sufficient water to form it into a rather stiffish paste (it
will require about half a pint), mix well together, drawing in the flour
by degrees; when well mixed, roll out four times as for puff paste, let
remain half an hour and it is ready for use where directed.
No. 1137. _Pâte d’Office or Confectioner’s Paste._
Weigh one pound and a half of flour, which put upon your slab, make a
hole in the centre, in which put one pound of sifted sugar, mix it well
with twelve eggs into a stiffish paste, having first well dissolved the
sugar with the eggs, work it well, it is then ready for use.
This paste was very much used when pièces montées were so much in vogue,
but in the several receipts in which it is referred to, it is used upon
quite a new principle, and very much simplified; this paste, with the
above proportions, ought to be very stiff, but still pliable enough to
be worked without breaking; should it be too stiff add more eggs, or too
soft more flour, the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course
be made.
No. 1138. _Pâte d’Amande._
Blanch a pound of almonds, put one fourth of them into a mortar, pound
well, moistening with a little water to prevent them oiling; when
pounded to a paste take it out, add another fourth, and proceed in like
manner till they are all done, then rub them through a hair sieve and
put them into a preserving pan with one pound and a half of sifted
sugar, set over a slow but equal fire, keep stirring for about
five-and-twenty minutes, clearing it from the sides of the pan, press
with your finger and if it feels tough take it out and put in the mortar
with the eighth of an ounce of gum tragacanth, soaked and squeezed
through a napkin; add the juice of a lemon, and pound well together till
quite cold, it is then ready for use, but if not used directly roll it
up in a ball and place it upon a plate under a basin to keep moist, it
will keep for weeks if moist. Of this paste you can form stands, or
convert it into any ornament your fancy may direct. Low stands are the
best for entremets, being much better than the old-fashioned ones, that
were made eight or ten inches in height, and when a jelly or cream
served upon it was cut even by the most experienced person as soon as
the first spoonful was taken the remainder was often seen dancing upon
the table, to the horror of all persons of good taste. For myself I
never use anything of the description, except for cold luncheon or
supper, and even then of the most simple construction.
No. 1139. _Pastillage or Gum Paste._
Put two ounces of gum tragacanth into a small basin, pour a quart of
filtered water over it, and cover the basin with a sheet of paper to
keep it free from dust; let soak twenty-four hours, then pour off the
water and place the gum in a strong cloth, through which squeeze it on
to a plate, not leaving a particle in the cloth; then place it upon your
pastry slab, work it round with your hand until as white as cream, have
an equal quantity of starch-powder, and powdered sugar, which you have
passed through a silk sieve, work it in by degrees, keeping it well
worked with the hand until it becomes a stiffish paste, firm enough to
roll and cut into any shape required. It may be used instead of pâté
d’amande.
No. 1140. _Vol-au-Vents_
Of all things in pastry require the most care and precision; they that
can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good pastrycooks, although
many variations in working puff paste, all others are of a secondary
importance. Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) giving it only six
rolls and a half instead of seven, leave it an inch in thickness, make a
mark upon the top either round or oval, and according to the size of
your dish, then with a sharp-pointed knife cut it out from the paste,
holding the knife with the point slanting outwards; turn it over, mark
the edges with the back of your knife, and place it upon a baking sheet,
which you have sprinkled with water; egg over the top, then dip the
point of the knife into hot water, and cut a ring upon the top a quarter
of an inch deep, and half an inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent, set
in a rather hot oven, if getting too much colour cover over with a sheet
of paper, do not take it out before done, or it would fall, but when
quite set cut off the lid and empty it with a knife; if for first course
it is ready, but if for second, sift sugar all over, which glaze with
the salamander. Regulate the thickness of the paste from which you cut
the vol-au-vent, according to the size you require it, the smaller ones
of course requiring thinner paste. A vol-au-vent for entrées will take
about half an hour to bake, and as the common iron ovens often throw out
more heat upon one side than the other, it will require turning two or
three times to cause it to rise equal; it ought to be when baked of a
light gold colour.
No. 1141. _Vol-au-vent de Pêches._
Put three quarters of a pound of sugar in a sugar-pan, with the juice of
a lemon and about half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and boil
till becoming a thickish syrup; then have twelve peaches not quite ripe,
which cut in halves, break their stones and blanch the kernels, throw
six halves with the kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, take
them out with a skimmer, lay them upon a dish and take off their skins,
stew the rest in syrup in like manner, six at a time; when all done pour
what liquor runs from them again into the syrup, which reduce to a good
thickness, pass it through a tammie into a basin, when cold pour a
little over the peaches and leave until ready to serve, dress the
peaches in your vol-au-vent with the syrup over, served as a compote
with small pastry around it; in stewing the fruit, be careful that it
does not catch in the least, a round-bottomed pan or regular sugar-pan
is the best to use for this purpose, but if not convenient a common
stewpan may be used.
No. 1142. _Vol-au-vent d’Abricots._
Cut twelve apricots, not quite ripe, in halves, break their stones and
blanch their kernels, which with the apricots put into a sugar-pan with
three quarters of a pound of lump sugar broken into small pieces, the
juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry; stew them ten minutes over a
quick fire, moving them round occasionally, then pour them into a basin,
which stand upon the ice, when quite cold fill your vol-au-vent and
serve; should the apricots be quite ripe, proceed as directed for the
peaches, but leaving their skins on.
No. 1143. _Vol-au-vent of Greengages._
Proceed exactly as in the last, only using twenty or twenty-four
greengages instead of the apricots.
No. 1144. _Vol-au-vent de Cerises._
Pick and stone four pounds of cherries, which put into a pan with three
quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, stew them about twenty minutes
over a sharp fire, moving them occasionally, place them upon the ice
till cold, when fill your vol-au-vent and serve. Should the syrup be too
thick, reduce it until thick enough to envelop the fruit.
No. 1145. _Vol-au-vent de Poires._
Take twelve middling-sized ripe pears, which cut in halves, peel them
neatly, and take out the cores; throw them into a pan, in which you have
put the juice of two lemons, and the thin rind of one cut in thin strips
and three quarters of a pound of sugar broken small; pass them over a
sharp fire, moving them occasionally till tender, put them upon the ice
to get cold; when ready, fill your vol-au-vent, and serve.
No. 1146. _Vol-au-vent de Pommes._
Procure twenty small golden pippins, peel them neatly, and take out the
cores with a long round vegetable cutter; rub them over with lemon, and
stew till tender in syrup made from three quarters of a pound of sugar
as for the peaches (No. 1141); when cold dress them as high as possible
in a vol-au-vent, and when ready to serve, pour the syrup over.
No. 1147. _Vol-au-vent d’Oranges._
Take ten fine oranges, cut them in halves, peel them, but not to lose
their shapes, have a rather thicker syrup than usual, simmer the oranges
five minutes, ten at a time, lay them upon a dish, reduce the syrup, and
when cold dress in pyramid in a vol-au-vent, and pour the syrup over.
No. 1148. _Gateau de Millefeuille à la Moderne._
Make a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, roll out to the
thickness of two penny-pieces, from which cut ten round pieces, each
about five inches in diameter, sprinkle water over two baking-sheets,
upon which lay them, wet lightly with water, and sprinkle a little rough
sugar over them, but not too coarse; bake very crisp in a moderate oven,
keeping them as white as possible; when baked lay one upon your dish,
which cover with apricot marmalade; then another, which cover with
orange marmelade; then another, which cover with currant jelly,
proceeding thus to the top; when finished mask the whole over with
apricot marmalade, sprinkling plenty of very finely chopped pistachios
round, and decorate the top with what dessert fruits you have in season,
cherries, strawberries, or raisins, dressed in pyramid.
No. 1149. _Turban à la Crème aux Macarons amers._
Give half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) ten rolls, and from it cut
eight round pieces of the same size as in the last; then with the same
cutter cut three pieces out of each in the form of middling-sized
leaves, wet lightly upon the top, and dip them into some coarse sugar
(pounded and sifted through a coarse wire sieve), place them upon a wet
baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven as white as possible; then
have ready a round board a quarter of an inch thick, and, according to
the size of your dish, made of pâte d’office (No. 1137) and baked in a
moderate oven; boil also half a pound of sugar au cassé (No. 1379), dip
the ends of the pieces of pastry singly into it, and build them in crown
upon the rim of your board, one row surmounted by another, dressed the
reverse way; make a meringue mixture with two whites of eggs (see No.
1218), which lay in fillets, with a paper cornet upon the top; sprinkle
over with some very green chopped pistachios, and set in a warm place to
dry, but not any longer than necessary; whip a pint of good double cream
very stiff, with which mix a little sugar, a quarter of a pound of
crushed ratafias, and a glass of good noyeau; put the cream in the
turban when ready to serve.
No. 1150. _Puit de Fruit aux Blanches Couronnes._
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132) give it nine rolls, from it
cut eight round pieces half an inch in thickness, then with a cutter,
four sizes smaller, cut a piece from the centre of each, so as to form
rings; place them upon a baking-sheet, wet the tops lightly, and
sprinkle a little coarse sugar over; bake them in a moderate oven as
white as possible, dress one upon the bottom of your dish, cover it with
a sweetmeat of some description, and proceed in like manner to the top;
fill with any of the fruits as described for the vol-au-vents, have a
little cream whipped very stiff lay it in piping with a paper cornet,
between each ring, and garnish the top tastefully with fillets of red
currant jelly or green angelica.
No. 1151. _Gateau de Pithiviers._
Blanch and pound well half a pound of almonds, moistening them with a
little white of egg to keep them from oiling; put a quarter of a pound
of butter in a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, beat
well together till it becomes smooth and creamy, then add the yolks of
four eggs; beat two minutes longer, add the pounded almonds, with two
ounces of crushed ratafias, and half a gill of whipped cream; you have
previously made half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), divide it nearly
in halves, having one piece larger than the other, mould them gently
into two balls, roll out the smallest to the thickness of a penny,
keeping it quite round, lay it upon a baking-sheet, put the above
mixture in the centre, and spread it over, leaving the space of half an
inch from the edge all round, roll out the other piece of paste rather
larger and thicker than the former, wet the first sheet round the edges
with a paste-brush, and cover the other over, closing it carefully, trim
and notch round, egg over the top, and with the back of your knife
sketch some design upon it; bake three quarters of an hour in a warm
oven, but when the paste is sufficiently coloured, cover with a sheet of
paper; when done sift a little sugar over, and glaze with the
salamander.
The original cake is baked quite white by using water instead of eggs,
and throwing sugar over; my objection to which is, that many people in
this country, from its appearance, fancy it is not sufficiently baked,
and must be indigestible; it may, however, be baked either way,
according to fancy.
No. 1152. _Tourte d’Entremet à la Crème._
Make a piece of paste thus: place six ounces of flour upon your slab,
with three ounces of butter, rub well together, make a hole in the
centre, in which put one egg, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a
very little water, mix well together, then mix the whole into a stiffish
paste; roll it out of the size and shape you want your tourte, and place
it upon a baking-sheet, then have ready a pound of puff paste, roll it
to about three quarters of an inch in thickness, cut out a piece exactly
of the same size and shape as the other, cut out the centre, so as to
leave a band of about an inch in breadth, wet the piece of paste upon
the baking-sheet, and place the band upon it at the rim, pressing down
lightly; egg it upon the top, but do not let it touch the side; mark
round with the back of your knife every quarter of an inch, and fill the
interior with frangipane (No. 1295), bake about half an hour in a warm
oven, and serve when cold.
Should you require the tourte for a flanc instead of an entremet, you
must roll the paste oval instead of round, and make a long band of puff
paste, which lay round the rim, carefully joining it at each end, by
cutting one end slantwise under, and the other over, making it of the
same thickness; egg the band upon the top, but do not let it run over
the edges previous to baking.
No. 1153. _Tourte d’Entremet à la Marmelade de Pommes._
Prepare a sheet of paste upon a baking-sheet as before, in the centre
of which put some apple marmalade (No. 1389) spread it within an inch
and a half of the edges all round, roll out a piece of the trimmings of
puff paste very thin, from which cut about forty narrow bands, wet the
edges of the paste, and string the bands tastefully over the marmalade,
forming diamond shapes; have ready a band of puff paste as in the last,
which place round the apples, pressing it closely to the bottom sheet,
egg the top, and bake as in the last; when done shake sugar over the
top, and glaze lightly with the salamander.
No. 1154. _Tourte d’Entremet au Confiture._
Prepare a sheet of paste upon your baking-sheet as before, in the centre
of which put some apricot, greengage, or strawberry jam; roll out a very
thin sheet of puff paste, wet the edges of the sheet, and cover over the
jam, closing it down at the edges; trim it level, have ready a band of
paste, as in the last, wet round, place the band round, press it close,
then with a sharp-pointed knife make incisions upon the thin paste over
the marmalade, cutting quite through, forming some fancy design, wet
slightly, throw sugar over, egg the band upon the top, and bake as
before.
No. 1155. _Tartelettes pralinées aux Abricots._
Have ready buttered twelve or as many small tartelette pans as you may
require, line each one with a piece of puff paste cut with a cutter of
the same size as the pans, force up the edges with your thumb and
finger, put a small ball (made of stiff flour and water paste) in each,
and bake them nicely in a very hot oven; when done take out the little
balls, turn the tartelettes upside down, shake powdered sugar over the
bottom of each, and glaze with a salamander, turn them over, shake sugar
in the interior, which also glaze with the salamander; you have
previously chopped two ounces of almonds very fine, which put into a
basin, with two ounces of sugar, and mix well with the white of an egg,
spread a little upon the bottom of each tartelette, shake a little sugar
over and place them in a slow oven to dry; when ready to serve put an
apricot in each, stewed as for the vol-au-vent d’abricots (No. 1142).
They may be served salamandered very crisp upon both sides, omitting the
almonds.
No. 1156. _Tartelettes de Pêches._
Make your tartelettes as in the last and fill with peaches dressed as
for vol-au-vent (No. 1141).
No. 1157. _Tartelettes aux Cerises._
Proceed as before, filling them when baked with cherries dressed as for
the vol-au-vent (No. 1144).
No. 1158. _Tartelettes aux Groseilles vertes._
Make the tartelettes as before, have ready three pints of young green
gooseberries, which put into a sugar-pan with three quarters of a pound
of lump sugar and half a wineglassful of water, place them over a sharp
fire, moving them round occasionally till done, which you may ascertain
by their shrivelled appearance, if too much done they will become quite
brown, put them in a basin and leave them till quite cold, when fill the
tartelettes and serve.
No. 1159. _Tartelettes of Greengages._
Prepare your tartelettes as before and fill with greengages prepared as
directed for the vol-au-vent (No. 1143).
No. 1160. _Tartelettes aux Fraises._
Prepare the tartelettes as before, pick a fine pottle of strawberries,
which put into a basin, with two ounces of powdered sugar and a little
powdered cinnamon, shake them well together, fill the tartelettes and
serve.
No. 1161. _Tartelettes de Pommes._
Prepare the tartelettes as usual, and have ready prepared ten apples
(golden pippins) cut each one in halves, take out the cores and peel
them neatly, put the juice of a lemon in your sugar-pan into which throw
them as you peel them; when they are all done add half a pound of lump
sugar and a little thin lemon-peel cut in strips, stew them gently till
tender and leave them to get cold in their syrup, then fill the
tartelettes, half an apple in each, mix a little apricot marmalade with
the syrup, pour a little over each and serve.
No. 1162. _Tartelettes de Poires._
Prepare the tartelettes as before, then have eight or ten small ripe
pears, cut them in halves and proceed precisely as with the apples in
the last, serve the same.
No. 1163. _Tartelettes of Cranberries._
Prepare the tartelettes as directed, then have ready three pints of
cranberries which you have drained and stewed over a sharp fire, with
one pound of lump sugar and two ounces of green angelica cut in fillets,
until the syrup becomes very thick, place them upon the ice till cold,
when fill the tartelettes and serve.
The cranberries sold in London I believe are from America; they are
tolerably good, but nothing to compare to those I have used in
Shropshire and Wales; they grow in that part of the country in meadows
close to the water; upon my first going there I was quite unacquainted
with the merit of this beautiful fruit, but soon perceived that very
beautiful entremets might be made from them, besides plain tarts, for
which they were daily used; their bitterness and peculiar wild flavour
rendering them very palatable and wholesome. I have thought proper to
make this remark, knowing that so few people are aware of their merit
and that so many are actually spoilt for want of gathering.
No. 1164. _Tartelettes d’Oranges._
Prepare the tartelettes as described, have eight oranges, peel and cut
off the white pith and divide each orange into twelve pieces, make a
syrup with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, reduce till
rather thick, then throw in half the oranges, let them boil one minute,
take them out, lay them upon a dish, and put in the remainder, stew one
minute as before, reduce the syrup again, and when nearly cold pour it
over the oranges; when ready fill your tartelettes and serve.
No. 1165. _Fauchonettes à la Vanille._
Line eighteen tartelette pans with puff paste as for tartelettes, but do
not work up the edges so high, have also a crème made in the following
manner: put a pint of milk into a stewpan and when it boils put in a
stick of vanille, and reduce the milk to half, in another stewpan have
the yolks of three eggs, with an ounce and a half of powdered sugar and
one of sifted flour, with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, taking out
the vanille, place over a slow fire, keep stirring till it thickens;
when cold fill the tartelettes and bake them nicely in a moderate oven,
when baked and cold have ready a meringue mixture of four eggs, (see No.
1218,) a teaspoonful of which lay upon each, spreading it quite flat
with a knife, make a ring of seven small button meringues round each
upon the top with a larger one in the centre, sift sugar over and place
them in a slow oven till of a light brown colour and the meringue quite
crisp; to serve, dress them pyramidically upon your dish.
No. 1166. _Dauphines._
Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, and place a small piece
of apricot or other marmalade in the centre, which cover with a custard
made as directed in the last, bake them in a moderate oven; when cold
prepare a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five eggs, with which form a
very high pyramid upon the top of each tartelette, sift sugar over and
place them in a slow oven to dry, keeping them very white; serve cold,
dressed round upon a napkin.
No. 1167. _Tartelettes à la Pompadour._
Line eighteen tartelette-pans with puff paste, have also eighteen pieces
of brioche paste (No. 1321), each the size of a walnut, roll them out to
the thickness of a penny-piece, keeping them round, place a piece of
apricot or other marmalade in the centre, wet the paste, fold it over
the marmalade to form a ball, and turn them over into your tartelettes,
wet the tops, turn them over on some rough pounded sugar, place them
upon a baking-sheet, bake in a moderate oven, dress pyramidically upon a
napkin and serve quite hot.
No. 1168. _Mirlitons aux Fleurs d’Orange._
Line about eighteen or twenty tartelette-pans with puff paste, then put
an ounce of powdered candied orange-flowers in a basin, with a quarter
of a pound of crushed maccaroons, a quarter of a pound of sugar, two
yolks and two whole eggs, with a grain of salt, stir altogether, then
add two ounces of fresh butter warmed and the whites of two eggs beat up
very stiff, fill the tartelettes, sift sugar rather thickly over and
bake them in a moderate oven.
No. 1169. _Mirlitons aux Amandes._
Proceed exactly as in the last, using one ounce of bitter and one ounce
of sweet almonds, blanched, dried, and pounded, and two ounces of
maccaroons instead of a quarter of a pound, omitting the candied
orange-flowers.
No. 1170. _Mirlitons au Citron._
Proceed as for mirlitons aux fleurs d’orange, only rubbing the rind of a
lemon upon the sugar previous to pounding it, and omitting the
orange-flowers.
No. 1171. _Petits Vol-au-vents à la Chantilly._
Make a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done roll it to about a
quarter of an inch in thickness, and with a fluted cutter cut out twenty
pieces rather larger than a penny-piece and with a plain round cutter
the size of a halfpenny, cut a piece from the centre of each, leaving
the rings, roll up the trimmings of the paste to the same thickness as
before, from which cut twenty more pieces with the fluted cutter,
sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them, wet lightly
upon the top, and place the rings over very even, pressing them down
gently, egg the tops and bake in a good oven; when done sift sugar over
and glaze with the salamander, whip half a pint of double cream, to
which add a little sugar pounded, with a few candied orange-flowers;
when the vol-au-vents are cold put a little marmalade in the bottom with
the cream over and serve.
No. 1172. _Petits Vol-au-vents aux Abricots._
Make the vol-au-vents as in the last, but when baked have a quarter of a
pound of sugar boiled au cassé (No. 1379), dip the top of each of the
vol-au-vents lightly into it, and immediately dip them in white sugar,
in grains (that is, the sugar pounded and all the fine sifted from it,
which again sift through a coarse wire sieve), when all done fill the
centre with some good apricot marmalade, or small pieces of apricots,
peaches, &c., as prepared for the large vol-au-vents.
No. 1173. _Petits Vol-au-vents à la Gelée mousseuse._
Make the vol-au-vents as described in the last, but dipping them into
red sugar in grains, (see No. 1375,) instead of white; when done put a
pint of very good marasquino jelly into a bowl, melt it, place it upon
the ice and keep whisking till set, it will be quite white and frothy,
fill the vol-au-vents, and serve with a few drops of marasquino
sprinkled over and a very fresh strawberry upon the top of each, or, if
not in season, a brandied cherry.
No. 1174. _Petits Puits aux Pistachios_
Are made the same as the vol-au-vents; when baked dip the tops lightly
into sugar as before, and dip them into chopped pistachios (very green)
and sugar in grains, fill them with some whipped cream flavoured with
vanilla sugar (No. 1377) and place a dried cherry upon the top.
No. 1175. _Gateau fourré à la Crème._
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), when done divide it into two
parts, one a fourth larger than the other, roll them up into two balls
gently, and roll the first into a sheet the thickness of a penny-piece,
sprinkle a baking-sheet with a little water, upon which lay it, put some
frangipane (No. 1295) in the centre, which spread to within half an inch
of the edge all round, and three quarters of an inch in thickness, wet
the edge lightly, then lay the other sheet of paste (which you have
rolled into a sheet, thicker and larger than the first) over, close it
well at the edges, egg it well over, trim round with your knife, sketch
some design upon the top with the point of a knife, bake about three
quarters of an hour in a moderate oven; when done sift sugar over and
glaze with the salamander; when cold cut it into pieces two inches and a
half in length and one in breadth; dress in crown upon a napkin or upon
a border of apple marmalade.
No. 1176. _Gateau fourré au Confiture._
Make half a pound of puff paste and proceed as in the last, spreading
apricot, strawberry, or greengage jam about a quarter of an inch in
thickness in the centre instead of the frangipane, finish as the last,
but it will not take so long to bake, serve the same.
No. 1177. _Gateau fourré, ou d’Artois, aux Pommes._
Peel and cut ten apples into slices, put them into a preserving-pan with
two ounces of butter, six ounces of powdered sugar, some thin lemon-peel
cut in strips, and a little powdered cinnamon, pass them over a sharp
fire till tender, then take them off, mix four tablespoonfuls of apricot
marmalade with them, and put by till cold; make half a pound of puff
paste and proceed as before, using the above preparation instead of the
sweatmeats before mentioned.
No. 1178. _Gateau fourré Anglo-Français._
Put three ounces of ground rice in a stewpan with which mix gradually a
pint of milk, stir over the fire till it thickens and the rice is done;
you have pounded a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and one ounce of
bitter with six ounces of sugar, put them in the stewpan with half an
ounce of candied citron cut small and soaked in a glass of marasquino,
which also put in, add five eggs, beat altogether, and stir over the
fire till it again thickens, when cold proceed exactly as for the gateau
fourré à la crème, substituting the above preparation for the
frangipane.
No. 1179. _Petits Gateaux fourrés au Confiture._
Prepare half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll into a long
band three inches wide and nearly a quarter of an inch thick, have it
upon your slab before you, then place rolls of jam an inch and a half in
length, as thick as your little finger and two inches apart, in the
centre; wet the edges all along and fold the paste over, press down with
your finger round each piece of marmalade, cut them out with a knife,
sprinkle a baking-sheet with water, upon which lay them; egg over, and
with the point of a knife sketch a leaf upon each, cutting nearly
through the paste, bake them nicely in a moderate oven, and when done
sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, dress them round upon a
border of apple marmalade when cold, or dress in pyramid. Any kind of
sweetmeat may be used for these kinds of gateaux, but observe it
requires to be very firm, for if soft it would run from the paste, and
give them a bad appearance.
No. 1180. _Petits Gateaux fourrés (round)._
Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste, from which cut twelve
pieces with a round cutter three inches and a half in diameter and the
thickness of a penny-piece, then roll out the trimmings, from which cut
twelve more pieces with a plain round cutter three inches in diameter,
lay a small piece of the preparation of apple as for d’Artois (No. 1177)
in the middle of the smaller sheets with a preserved cherry upon the
top, wet round the edges lightly, then place the larger sheet over,
press it well down upon the edges with the rim of the smaller cutter,
with which also cut them round; wet lightly over and place a small ring
upon the top, sprinkle white sugar in rather coarse grains over, and
bake rather white in a moderate oven, when cold place a fine preserved
cherry within each ring upon the top, and dress them in pyramid; they
may likewise be made square or any other shape, by following the above
directions, they may be made smaller if required.
No. 1181. _Petits Gateaux fourrés aux Amandes._
Make the cakes exactly as above, blanch two ounces of sweet almonds,
split each one in halves (wet the top of the cakes), and with them form
a rosette, pressing them into the paste; place a ring of paste upon the
top as before, sprinkle white sugar in grains over, bake them nearly
white, when done fill the ring with red currant jelly, and when cold
serve as before.
No. 1182. _Petits Gateaux fourrés Meringué._
Make the cakes as before, but omitting the almonds, when baked and cold
prepare a meringue mixture of three whites of eggs (see No. 1218), which
put into a paper cornet, and with it pipe a rosette tastefully upon each
gateau; throw pounded sugar over, shaking off all that does not adhere
to them, place them in the screen to dry, when dry fill each cavity with
currant, apple, or quince jelly, which will have a very pleasing effect.
You may also form a rope round with meringues, which sprinkle with green
and red sugar in grains (see No. 1375), filling the interior with
jellies as before, they may be made oval also.
No. 1183. _Patisserie d’Amandes à la Condé._
Make half a pound of puff paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it the last
time to the thickness of a penny-piece, have ready blanched and chopped
half a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a basin with half a pound of
powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or little more if required,
spread it over the paste the thickness of a shilling, and with a knife
cut the paste into pieces two inches and a half in length and nearly one
in breadth, place them upon a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light
brown colour in a moderate oven, dress them in pyramid.
No. 1184. _Turban de Condé à la Rhubarbe._
Dress some of the pastry as directed in the last, in a crown upon a
border of apple marmalade, have ready a bundle of red forced rhubarb
(very young), which put into a preserving-pan with one pound of powdered
sugar and a wine-glassful of water, stew quickly over a sharp fire
keeping it very red, the syrup must be very thick; when quite cold fill
the centre of the turban and serve. Apricots, apples, pears, peaches,
greengages, or any other fruits, dressed as for vol-au-vents, can be
served in this manner.
No. 1185. _Petits Gateaux d’Abricots._
Make three quarters of a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll it to the
thickness of a penny-piece, and cut it into pieces three inches square,
in the centre of which put a roll of apricot marmalade about two inches
long and the thickness of your finger; wet the paste round lightly, and
fold it over in the form of a book, egg over and bake them in a warm
oven, when done sift sugar over and glaze with the salamander, or they
may be made in the shape of diamonds by cutting the paste into pieces of
that form, and covering one over the other.
No. 1186. _Petits Gateaux renversés._
Make half a pound of puff paste, roll it to the thickness of a
halfpenny-piece, and with a round cutter cut out twenty-four pieces
rather larger than a five-shilling piece, wet lightly and fold them over
forming half circles, wet the top, dip into some coarse sugar in grains
and bake on a baking-sheet in a moderate oven of a light colour, cut
fillets of currant jelly, with which garnish by piping them in the
separation with a paper cornet, and serve dressed in pyramid.
No. 1187. _Petites Bouchées à la Patissière._
Make half a pound of puff paste, from which cut fifteen pieces the
thickness of a penny-piece, with an oval fluted cutter two inches and a
half in length and one and a half in breadth, wet them upon the top;
then roll out the trimmings, from which cut twenty an inch in diameter,
taking out the centre with a smaller cutter, thus forming them into
rings, place them upon the top exactly in the centre, wet the rings
lightly, dip the tops into some white sugar in grains, place them upon a
baking-sheet, and bake them a light colour; when done fill the ring with
a little currant or apple jelly, a dried cherry, or any description of
preserve.
No. 1188. _Eventail aux Cerises._
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness
of half an inch, cut it in strips a quarter of an inch wide and three
inches long, lay them upon their sides upon the baking-sheet, leaving
them room to spread, bake in a moderate oven, when done sift sugar over
and glaze with the salamander, dress them in a crown upon a border of
apple marmalade, with cherries in the centre dressed as for vol-au-vent
(No. 1144).
No. 1189. _Petits Gateaux à la Royale._
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), which roll to the thickness
of a penny-piece, beat three quarters of a pound of finely sifted sugar
in a basin with the whites of two eggs and a little lemon-juice; if too
stiff add a little more white of egg, beat well, spread over the sheet
of paste, and cut it into pieces three inches long and one broad, lay
them upon your baking-sheet and bake in a slow oven.
There are likewise a great many small cakes which may be made from puff
paste in all variety of forms, with different shaped cutters, and
ornamented with different preserves, or meringued in any pattern or
design you may fancy, but these must be left entirely to the taste.
No. 1190. _A Flan of Puff Paste._
Make half a pound of puff paste, roll twelve times till nearly worn out,
letting it remain some time on the slab before using; then have a plain
round or oval flan mould,[14] butter the interior and line it with the
paste about one third of an inch in thickness, place a sheet of white
paper at the bottom and a band round the sides in the interior, which
fill with bread-crumbs, bake in a warm oven rather crisp, take out,
empty it of the bread-crumbs, and paper and turn it from your mould,
sift sugar all over and glaze with the salamander, serve filled with any
of the fruits dressed as directed for vol-au-vents. Should you have any
trimmings of paste left from a previous day it may be used instead of
making fresh.
No. 1191. _Flan de Pommes à la Portugaise._
Make half a pound of flour into a fine paste (pâte fine, No. 1136), roll
it into a sheet about eleven inches in diameter, work up the sides with
your hands two inches in height, which crimp and ornament neatly with
pâte d’office (No. 1137), or some of the same paste cut into small
leaves, with which form a wreath or some other design, by wetting the
flan round and sticking them upon it; then peel two dozen small apples
(golden pippins), take the cores from fifteen of them with a long round
cutter, make a syrup with half a pint of water, the juice of a lemon,
and three quarters of a pound of sugar, reduce over a sharp fire till
becoming thickish, put in the whole apples which stew gently till
tender, then take them out, cut up the remainder, put them into the
syrup and boil to a thickish marmalade; lay half the marmalade at the
bottom of the flan, then the whole apples, and fill up with the
marmalade not hiding the whole apples, put a band of buttered paper
round and bake three quarters of an hour, when done take off the
buttered paper and mask all over with apricot marmalade, serve either
hot or cold.
No. 1192. _Flan de Poires._
Make a crust the same as above, peel and cut in halves about two dozen
very nice pears, put them into a preserving-pan with three quarters of a
pound of sugar, the juice of two lemons, and the rind of one, free from
pith, cut into small strips; stew till tender, when cold place them in
your flan with the syrup over, bake three quarters of an hour with a
band of paper round, finish and serve as in the last.
Cherries, greengages, and apricots may also be used for the above
purposes by following the same methods, dressing the fruit as for
vol-au-vents.
No. 1193. _Flanc à la Crème pralinée._
Prepare a crust as before, which fill with some frangipane (No. 1295),
in which you have put six ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter
almonds, blanched and chopped, put a band of paper round, bake three
quarters of an hour, then take off the paper, wet the crust, sift sugar
all over, and glaze with the salamander.
No. 1194. _Pâté à Choux._
Put half a pint of water in a stewpan, with six ounces of butter, two
ounces of sugar (pounded), with half a stick of vanille and a pinch of
salt; when it begins to boil stir in three good spoonfuls of flour, keep
stirring over the fire, keeping it cleared from the bottom of the
stewpan, till becoming a toughish paste; take it off the fire, and stir
in six or seven eggs one after the other, and work them well in; it is
then ready; butter a baking-sheet and lay your paste upon it in round
pieces nearly the size of a walnut,[15] egg over, and sprinkle white
sugar in grains upon them, bake in a moderate oven, and when done and
cold open a lid at the top, fill them with a jam or marmalade of some
description, replace the lid, and serve dressed in pyramid upon a
napkin. Half the quantity of this and following receipts may of course
be made.
No. 1195. _Petits Choux à la Crème._
Prepare your paste as in the last, place it in round balls upon your
baking-sheet, egg over, sprinkle with sugar in grains, and bake them as
in the last, then put two yolks of eggs in a stewpan, with a
tablespoonful of sugar, a little chopped lemon-peel, and a few candied
orange-flowers well pounded; mix well together, add a gill of boiling
milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, place in a basin upon the
ice, when cold, add a gill of whipped cream, mix well, fill your petits
choux, and serve as in the last.
No. 1196. _Petits Choux aux Amandes._
Proceed as above, but when they are baked cover lightly with a mixture
of almonds and sugar, as directed for patisserie d’amandes (No. 1183);
put them again in the oven till it has set and become crisp; when cold
fill and serve as before.
No. 1197. _Petits Choux à la Comtesse._
Prepare the paste as before, but lay it out upon your baking-sheet, in
long pieces the size of your finger, egg and sugar over, bake as before,
and when cold open them beneath and fill with the cream as above.
No. 1198. _Petits Choux en Gimblettes._
Make the paste as before, lay it in larger round balls upon a buttered
baking-sheet, dip the handle of your paste-brush into some egg, with
which make a hole as large as a shilling in the centre of each, thus
forming them into rings, each rather larger than a five-shilling piece;
egg over, and sprinkle with sugar in grains and chopped pistachios mixed
together; bake them as before, but in a slow oven; they do not require
to be filled.
No. 1199. _Petits Pains à la Crèmière._
Put half a pint of thin cream in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of
butter, two ounces of sugar, and a little salt; when boiling add three
spoonfuls of flour; stir well over the fire, clearing it from the bottom
till becoming toughish, then add six eggs, one at a time, which work in
well; the paste requires to be rather firm; when cold put a little flour
upon your pastry slab, upon which turn the paste; roll it out in pieces
an inch and a half in length, make an incision down the centre with your
knife, and lay them upon a baking-sheet, egg over, bake them in a warm
oven; when done sift sugar over, and glaze with the salamander; serve
dressed in pyramid, and very hot.
No. 1200. _Madeline au vin de Ports._
Put half a pound of flour in a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, a
quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, and a little orange-flour
water; mix the whole well together with five eggs, butter a cylinder
mould, put the paste into it, and bake of a nice gold colour in a
moderate oven; put four glasses of port wine in a stewpan, with a little
sugar, four cloves, and a little cinnamon; mix a teaspoonful of
arrowroot with a glass of port wine cold, which stir in with the other
in your stewpan, turn the madeline out upon your dish, pour the wine
over, straining it through a sieve; when cold fill the centre with half
a pint of whipped cream, flavoured with orange-flower-water, and serve.
They may also be made in smaller moulds, dressed in pyramid, with the
sauce over.
No. 1201. _Genoises._
Well pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a quarter of a pound of
sugar, and pass them through a wire sieve; put them into a basin, with
six ounces of flour and six eggs; beat well together, add a little salt,
half a gill of whipped cream, and a piece of butter the size of an egg
(melted but not hot); butter a sauté-pan, pour the mixture into it, bake
in a moderate oven half an hour, or till rather crisp, turn it out upon
your board, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes with your
knife or different shaped cutters (but do not make them too large, or
they would not look well), which decorate with a white or pink iceing
(No. 1388) or meringue with a paper cornet, and different sorts of
preserves.
No. 1202. _Genoises fourées._
Prepare a mixture as above, but only put half of it in the sauté-pan;
when half done spread a little apricot marmalade over, and pour over the
remainder of the mixture; when done turn out upon a board, cut and
ornament it as directed above. This style of genoise is new, and when
well made very excellent.
No, 1203. _Genoises à l’Orange._
Proceed as before, but rub the sugar with the rind of an orange previous
to pounding it, and add a small glass of brandy; bake, cut, and ornament
it as before.
No. 1204. _Genoises aux Pistaches._
Make a genoise as before, bake it, and when cold cut it into round
pieces the size of a penny-piece; cut also as many rings the size of a
shilling, mask the tops of the round pieces with white iceings (No.
1381) and place a ring in the centre of each, which also mask; have two
ounces of pistachios blanched and split in halves, which lay upon them,
their points to the rings, thus forming rosettes; fill the rings with
marmalade when ready to serve.
No. 1205. _Darioles._
Line (very thinly) a dozen small dariole moulds with paste (pâte à
foncer, No. 1136), then put one ounce of flour in a basin with an egg,
beat it quite smooth, then add six yolks of eggs and four ounces of
sugar (pounded) with a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers,
six large macaroons crushed, one whole egg, and half a pint of good
cream; mix all well together, put a small piece of butter in each of the
moulds, fill them with the above preparation, and bake in a quick oven,
when done take them out of the mould, sift sugar over, and serve very
hot; they will be as light as souffles and eat as delicate.
No. 1206. _Biscatelles._
Put one pound of sugar into a basin with five eggs, work it well, and
add by degrees four more eggs, then stir in the yolks of five other eggs
with a pound of flour, add three quarters of a pound of butter just
melted, and the whites of five eggs, beat very stiff, bake it in a
sauté-pan, and when cold cut it into a variety of shapes, which ornament
with meringue, iceing and preserves as your fancy may direct; half the
above quantity would be sufficient for a dish.
No. 1207. _Gateaux à l’Indienne._
Make a sponge-cake mixture (No. 1369) of six eggs, which bake in twelve
small dariole moulds, when cold cut them in slices, spread a little
currant jelly upon each, with a little maresquino, and build them of
their original shape; have ready a meringue mixture (No. 1218) of five
eggs, with which mask them, finish the top in a point, sprinkle over
with rough sugar and dry in a very slow oven, keeping them quite white;
when cold, dress in pyramid as elevated as possible.
No. 1208. _Gauffres aux Pistaches._
Weigh the weight of six eggs of sugar and three of flour, which put into
a basin with half a pound of sweet almonds chopped very fine, mix them
with six whole eggs and a teaspoonful of orange-flower-water; rub two or
three baking-sheets very lightly with very white wax, upon which drop
the mixture with a spoon into cakes the size of a penny piece; let it
spread, then lay some pistachios blanched and filleted upon them, place
in a warmish oven, and be very particular in baking, for if done too
much you will not be able to do anything with them, and if not done
enough they will not be crisp eating; directly they are done take them
from the oven, and with a thin knife take them off the baking-sheet,
curl them over the handle of a wooden spoon as quickly as possible, and
place in a screen for a short time to dry; in case your gauffres run out
of shape cut them out with an oval cutter or with the point of a knife
before putting them upon the spoon.
No. 1209. _Gauffres à l’Allemande_
Are made the same as the above, but omitting the almonds and pistachios,
serve them filled with whipped cream, to which you have added a little
powdered sugar and orange-flower-water, if in season a fine strawberry
may be placed at each end, dress them in pyramid upon a napkin.
No. 1210. _Gauffres à la Vanille_
Are made the same as the gauffres aux pistaches, but adding half a stick
of vanilla well pounded and sifted with the sugar, and half a glass of
brandy instead of the orange-flower-water. A variety of beautiful
entremets may be made with gauffres, according to taste.
No. 1211. _Gauffres à la Flamande._
Put half a pound of flour in a basin, with which mix six eggs by
degrees, working it at first upon one side of the basin, until you have
mixed the whole into a smooth paste, then dissolve a piece of dried
German yeast, half the size of a walnut, in a wineglassful of warm
water; when dissolved pour it into the basin with a gill of warm milk
and a little salt, mix all well together, stir in six ounces of butter,
previously melted, also two spoonfuls of orange-flower-water, set in a
warm place for nearly two hours, when the mixture would have risen about
two or three inches turn it round five or six times with a wooden spoon
to bring it down; let remain half an hour longer and it is ready for
use.
Put the gauffre irons upon a slow fire, turning them occasionally, to
get hot by degrees, wipe them well with a cloth, and rub lightly over
the interior with fat bacon, then put in two or three spoonfuls of the
paste, close the irons, put them over the fire (turning occasionally)
for a few minutes; open the irons half way to see if coloured
sufficiently (they should be of a light gold colour) and very crisp, if
done turn it out, proceeding in like manner with the remainder; when
finished have half a pound of lump sugar, well pounded, with a quarter
of an ounce of powdered cinnamon and passed through a fine sieve, dip
the gauffres into it on both sides and serve very hot dressed in pyramid
upon a napkin.
No. 1212. _Gauffres à la Casalesry._
Put half a pound of fresh butter into a middling-sized basin (having
previously pressed it in a cloth to extract the buttermilk), work it
round with your hand until forming a whitish cream, then add half a
pound of sifted flour and a piece of yeast of the size of a walnut; work
well together, set it in a warm closet half an hour, or until well
risen, take it out, add half a pint of whipped cream (taking care that
the mixture is not too hot, or it would turn sour) and a little salt,
put the gauffre irons upon the fire, and proceed as in the last; when
done roll them in powdered cinnamon and sugar mixed together, and send
very hot to table; either of the two last may be served either as an
entremet or a remove.
No. 1213. _Red Nougat._
Blanch and skin three quarters of a pound of almonds, which cut into
small fillets, and place them in the oven until lightly browned; put six
ounces of powdered sugar in a copper pan with a little essence of
cochineal, stir round over the fire till melted, and when it commences
boiling stir in the almonds and turn it out upon a buttered
baking-sheet, spread out thin, and before getting too crisp cut it into
pieces (with a knife) two inches in length and three quarters of an inch
in breadth; dress them in crown upon your dish and fill the interior
with a pint of whipped cream, in which you have put a tablespoonful of
sugar and one of orange-flower-water; strawberries may be added if in
season. Nougat aux pistaches is made by omitting the cochineal, and when
spread out upon the baking-sheet sprinkling chopped pistachios over
whilst very hot, and proceeding as in the last.
No. 1214. _Small Cups of Nougat._
Prepare the nougat as before, then have a number of dariole or
tartelette moulds, oil the interior slightly, and when the mixture is
half cold put a piece the size of a walnut in each, which press to the
shape of the mould, with your finger and thumb; when cold take them out
and serve filled with cream as before. Vases and large cups may also be
made with it, by having moulds and proceeding as for the smaller ones;
but for the larger moulds or shapes, which require more time to fill, to
prevent the mixture getting cold, keep the pan upon a trivet at the
mouth of the oven, taking it by pieces as you require.
No. 1215. _Nougat d’Abricot._
Make half a pound of puff paste (No. 1132), roll twelve times, leaving
it about the thickness of half-a-crown piece, place it upon a
baking-sheet, and spread apricot marmalade over a quarter an inch in
thickness, then have ready, finely chopped and well dried, three
quarters of a pound of blanched sweet almonds, which put into a basin
with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, and mix with the
whites of four eggs, spread it all over the marmalade and bake in a hot
oven a nice colour; when cold cut it into pieces of any shape you
please, and dress in crown upon a napkin to serve. Brioche paste (No.
1321) would be better than puff paste for the above, but they are very
excellent either way.
No. 1216. _Châtaignes Croquantes._
Roast sixty chesnuts, take them from the husks, and when cold pound them
well, adding a little white of egg to prevent their oiling; then add
half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter,
and the yolks of two or three eggs, mix all well together; lay the paste
upon a marble slab, roll it out into small pieces two inches long, place
them on a baking-sheet, mark with a knife upon the top, and bake in a
sharp oven, when done dip them into sugar boiled to au casse (No. 1379),
when cold they are ready to serve.
No. 1217. _Amandes Croquantes._
Blanch one pound of sweet almonds, which put in a slow oven to dry, when
cold put them into a mortar with one pound of lump sugar, pound very
fine and pass them through a wire sieve upon a marble slab, rub in three
quarters of a pound of butter, a little chopped rind of lemon, and the
yolks of three eggs, form the paste thus made, into small pieces of any
shape you please, which bake and dip in sugar as in the last.
No. 1218. _Meringues à la Cuilliere._
Pound and sift one pound of lump sugar, whisk the whites of ten eggs
very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir
gently, perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a table or dessert-spoon
lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs, sift powdered sugar
thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the
superfluous sugar, place upon boards which you have wetted, and put them
into a slow oven, just hot enough to cause them to be light and slightly
tinge; when the outside becomes quite crisp, take off the papers, by
turning them topsy-turvy and lifting the papers from them, dip your
spoon into hot water, and with it clear out the best part of the
interior, dust them with powdered sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet,
and put into the screen to dry; they may be made a day or two before
they are required, if put away in a dry place; to serve, fill them with
whipped cream flavoured either with vanilla or orange-flower (but do not
make it too sweet), stick two together, dress in pyramid upon a napkin
and serve. Should they happen to stick to the papers, moisten the papers
with a paste-brush and water.
No. 1219. _Turban de Meringues._
Make a meringue mixture as above of five eggs and half a pound of sugar,
which lay out on white paper, but with a teaspoon, of the size and shape
of pheasants’ eggs; sift sugar over, which shake off directly, place
them upon boards and bake in a slacker oven than directed for the last,
keeping them quite white, and drying them quite through; when cold wet
the paper underneath, take off the meringues, dry them a little more,
have ready, and baked a round board of pâte d’office (No. 1137), seven
inches in diameter, have also ready a little white iceing (No. 1383)
mixed rather stiff, form a ring of it round the rim of the board, upon
which dress the meringues, placing a piece of the iceing the size of a
pea at the bottom of each to fix them one to the other, place it to dry,
have a little iceing thinner than the last, dip one end of the remaining
meringues into it, and then into chopped pistachios (very green), with
them form another row upon the first, keeping the green end uppermost,
dry it till set, and when ready to serve fill the interior with a
whipped cream as in the last, and sprinkle chopped pistachios over, or
fill them with any of the crèmes bavaroises; the meringues may likewise
be laid out with a paper cornet.
No. 1220. _Turban de Meringues glacé._
Make a turban as directed in the last, then soak two ounces of citron
(candied), two ounces of currants, and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, in
one glass of maresquino, mix the whole in a freezing-pot with a pint and
a half of vanilla ice (No. 1381), fill the turban, at the moment of
serving, with it.
No. 1221. _Petits Meringues aux Pistaches._
Make a meringue mixture of five whites of eggs and half a pound of sugar
as before, lay out upon papers with a teaspoon; have ready two ounces of
chopped pistachios, which sprinkle over, then sift a little sugar over,
which shake off immediately, place them upon boards, bake and empty as
directed for meringues à la cuillerée (No. 1218), fill them with whipped
cream in which you have introduced a few chopped pistachios, stick two
together and serve; these are intended more for garniture than to be
served as a dish by themselves.
No. 1222. _Champignons en surprise._
Make a meringue mixture of ten eggs as before, put one half of the
mixture into a paper horn, (or cornet,) cut a piece of the bottom with a
knife to leave a hole as large as the tip of your little finger, press
the mixture through it upon sheets of white paper, into pieces as large
round as a five-shilling piece, sprinkle them over with grated
chocolate and powdered sugar mixed, put the remainder of the mixture
into another paper horn, cut a hole at the bottom smaller than in the
last, and press the mixture through it upon paper, into pieces an inch
and a half in length, and thicker at one end than the other, commencing
at the small end to form the stalk of a mushroom, sift a little sugar
over, place them upon a board, with those you first laid out, put in a
slow oven, when the smaller ones are perfectly dried take them off the
papers, stick two together, dip the thick end in white of egg and then
into grated chocolate, take out the larger ones, remove them from the
paper by wetting it at the back, then stick the smaller ones into them,
thus forming mushrooms, dry in the screen and use them for garniture
where directed.
No. 1223. _Biscuit manqué aux Amandes._
Put half a pound of powdered sugar into a basin, with the yolks of six
eggs, beat them well together with a wooden spoon, melt two ounces of
fresh butter, which add to the mixture, with six ounces of flour and the
whites of the six eggs beat very stiff, stir it till well mixed, but not
more than is required, butter a sauté-pan lightly, put some finely
powdered sugar into it, shake all over the pan and turn out that which
does not adhere to the butter, pour in the mixture, have a quarter of a
pound of sweet almonds cut into thin fillets, lay them upon the top and
sift sugar over, bake in a moderate oven of a light brown colour; when
done take it out of the sauté-pan, and when cold cut it in pieces of a
diamond shape three inches in length and two in breadth and serve
dressed in pyramid.
No. 1224. _Biscuit manqué au Rhum._
Put half a pound of powdered sugar in a basin, with three quarters of a
pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, (melted,) two glasses of
old Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds well pounded,
(with the sugar,) and a little salt; mix the whole together, with the
yolks of six and two whole eggs, then add the whites of the six eggs
whipped very stiff, stirring them in very lightly, have ready a large
square paper box, butter the interior well and pour in the mixture; bake
in a moderate oven; when nearly done egg over the top with a paste-brush
and cover with a preparation of almonds made thus: blanch and skin half
a pound of sweet almonds, which cut into thin fillets, dry them in a hot
closet, put them into a basin, with three ounces of sugar and mix with
the whites of two eggs, place the manqué again in the oven until done
and the almonds become slightly browned, then take it from the oven and
when cold cut in diamonds or any other shapes your fancy may direct.
They do not require to be more than an inch in thickness, and rum may be
exchanged for any other flavour if desired.
* * * * *
No. 1225. _Calf’s Foot Jelly, flavoured as required._
Jellies may be considered as the first, most wholesome, and refreshing
dishes of the second course, especially when made from calves’ feet,
which meritorious discovery belongs especially to the English kitchen,
where I believe they have been used for years; the inventor certainly
deserves a place in the archives of cookery. For the making of jellies
in France nothing but isinglass is used, which is so adulterated in its
preparation that it requires a person to be a good judge to select it,
whilst calves’ feet may be selected by any one, only requiring to be
well scalded and fresh. But here I must observe that the discovery has
never been advantageously developed to the public at large, for the
introduction of cloves, mace, cinnamon, and other spices, give it a very
common flavour, which does not at all harmonize with the delicacy of the
jelly; a real gourmet would not only send it from his table, but
discharge the maker with the impression that a cook without taste was no
cook at all; the only flavour required in jelly being some light
liqueur, wine, or the freshness of some delicious fruits. Orange jelly,
and jelly from the juice of any other fruits, may likewise be made with
the calf’s foot jelly, by omitting the greater part of juice of lemon
and using it instead, but here isinglass has an advantage, it will keep
for any time and may be used in the country where, perhaps, at the time
required calves’ feet cannot be obtained.
Take four calf’s feet, cut them up and put them into a stewpan, with six
quarts of water, place upon the fire; when boiling remove to the corner,
where let boil slowly five hours, to reduce to about two quarts, keeping
well skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, in which let
remain in a cold place till set quite firm, take off as much of the oil
from the top as possible with a spoon, and wash off the remainder with a
little hot water as quickly as possible, wipe dry with a cloth, and put
it into a stewpan, with a pound of lump sugar broken in small pieces,
the juice of ten lemons, the rind of four (free from pith), the whites
of eight eggs, with the shells, half a pint of water, and half a pint of
sherry, place the stewpan over the fire and keep whisking its contents
until boiling, then pass it through your jelly bag, pouring that which
first runs through back again, until it runs quite clear; it is then
ready for use as directed in the following receipts.
To be quite certain of the strength of your jelly take a little from the
stewpan previous to its boiling, which put into the bottom of a small
mould and place upon the ice if too strong add a little more water, but
if by mistake too weak reduce it in clarifying.
I have invented some few new jelly moulds, the designs of which are
shown in the accompanying plates, also some new fruit atelettes (which
will be found at the end of this work), one of which, placed at the top
of a jelly when turned out, is a very handsome addition.
No. 1226. _Gelée de Dantzic aux Fraises._
Take a quart of jelly clarified as above, with which mix four glasses of
eau de vie de Dantzic, reserving the gold leaves by letting them set at
the bottom of the glass, mix four tablespoonfuls of the jelly with it,
have a cylinder mould and place it in ice, put the jelly with the leaves
first in, so that the gold will show at the top of the jelly when turned
out, place a fine strawberry in each knob of the mould, then add a
little more jelly, when nearly set add more strawberries, sticking them
to the sides of the mould and arranging them as tastefully as possible,
fill up by degrees or you would have all the strawberries swimming at
the top; when finished and quite set it is ready to turn out, which is
done by dipping the mould in warm water; wipe quickly with a cloth,
shake the mould gently, turn over carefully upon your dish, and draw the
mould off quite straight. Two glasses of pale brandy may advantageously
be added to the jelly.
No. 1227. _Gelée de Maresquin aux Pêches._
Take a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four glasses of
the best Italian maresquino, have four nice ripe peaches, but perfectly
sound, which cut into quarters, bury a cylinder mould in ice, place a
little jelly at the bottom, then arrange some of the pieces of peaches,
which cover with jelly; when nearly set arrange the remainder, and fill
up the mould, proceeding as in the last. The fruit will impart its own
peculiar flavour to the jelly.
No. 1228. _Gelée de Noyeau aux Abricots._
Flavour a quart of jelly clarified as before with four glasses of the
best noyeau, (here I must remark that if the liquors used are not of the
best quality it would render the jelly cloudy and very unsightly,) have
six nice ripe deep-coloured apricots, which cut in quarters and arrange
tastefully in your mould, proceeding as in the two preceding articles.
Observe in arranging the fruit in your mould that each piece is
separate, so as to leave some parts of the jelly transparent, otherwise
it would appear very heavy and ungraceful.
No. 1229. _Gelée Macédoine aux Fruits de belle saison._
Prepare a quart of jelly as directed (No. 1225) putting the gold leaves
in the mould, which you have previously surrounded with ice, have ready
twelve very fresh strawberries, twelve black grapes, twelve very white
cherries, and one peach or apricot cut in six, put six strawberries at
the bottom, with a piece of peach between each, cover with jelly, when
set place in another row of fruit, proceeding thus until full, but not
putting the fruit too close together and variegating it as much as
possible, or if in winter and the above fruit cannot be obtained prepare
three small apples, (golden pippins,) which cut into quarters and put
into a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and one ounce of powdered
sugar, set them over a slow fire to stew till tender, then put them out
on a plate to cool, peel and take all the pith from two small oranges,
which cut in quarters, have also a few brandied cherries and some fine
black and green grapes; arrange the whole tastefully in your mould,
filling with jelly as before directed.
No. 1230. _Bordure de Poires en gelée._
Cut twelve middling-sized ripe pears in halves, take out the cores, peel
neatly, and throw them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two
lemons and half a pound of lump sugar, let stew rather quickly till
tender, but not to break, put them upon a dish till cold, have a
cylinder mould (but not too deep) upon the ice, have a quart of jelly
flavoured with four glasses of any liquor, put a little at the bottom of
the mould half an inch in depth when set, dress your pears round in a
border, (but the reverse way, so that they become right when the mould
is turned over,) fill the mould up with the jelly when quite cold and
upon the point of setting, and when wanted turn it out as before, and
fill up the centre with red whipped jelly. Apricots or peaches cut in
halves may be dressed the same, or apples.
No. 1231. _Gelée au Rhum._
Have a quart of jelly clarified as before, to which add four wineglasses
of old Jamaica rum, colour a little with some essence of cochineal, pour
it into your mould without any fruit. This is better appreciated by a
party of gentlemen, and should not be introduced where there are ladies;
by keeping the jelly a little stiffer you may introduce more rum.
No. 1232. _Gelée Mousseuse à l’Eau de Vie._
Put a pint and a half of jelly in a stewpan upon the ice, add four
glasses of cognac brandy, whip it until very light and upon the point of
setting, when pour in your mould, it will be quite white; when ready to
serve turn it out as before directed. If wanted clear, proceed as for
gelée au rhum.
No. 1233. _Gelée demie chaude froide marbrée._
Flavour a quart of jelly with three glasses of maresquino, have ready
also a pint of the preparation (crème au maresquin, No. 1251), nearly
set in a basin, dip in three apricots cut in quarters, which put in a
plate upon the ice till set, have also some quarters of peaches, which
also dip into the cream, when set commence filling your mould with the
jelly, placing a few fine strawberries at the bottom, then some of the
fruit enveloped, filling with the jelly as before directed, and
variegating it as much as possible with black grapes, strawberries, and
the enveloped fruit. This is quite a new idea, it not only looks well
but likewise cuts and eats beautiful.
No. 1234. _Gelée fouettée aux Fruits._
Put a pint and a half of jelly upon the ice in a stewpan, to which add
three glasses of maresquino, whip the jelly to a white froth, and when
upon the point of setting stir in very carefully about thirty
strawberries, not too ripe, with a few cherries, apricots in quarters,
or peaches; fill your mould and when set turn out as usual. A jelly for
whipping requires to be rather stiffer than when clear, if not stiff
enough add a little clarified isinglass.
No. 1235. _Gelée à l’Ananas._
Procure a middling-sized pineapple, peel it carefully, cut in halves
lengthwise, then into slices, (rather thin,) have a quart of jelly in
which you have infused the rind of the pineapple, previously well
washed, place a little at the bottom of the mould, and when nearly set
lay a border of the pineapple over one upon another, forming a ring,
cover with more jelly, let it nearly set, then add another border of the
pineapples, proceeding thus until the mould is filled.
No. 1236. _Orange Jelly._
Have ten fine Malta oranges and three or four lemons, peel off the rind
of eight very finely, which put into a basin, clarify a pound of sugar
(No. 1379), pass through a napkin into the basin (over the rind) whilst
hot, and cover with a sheet of foolscap paper, twisting it tightly over
the edge, and pricking a small hole in the centre with a pin to give a
little vent; cut the oranges and lemons in halves, squeeze out all the
juice through a hair sieve into another basin, and proceed to clarify it
as follows: wash well two sheets of white blotting-paper in a basin of
water, let well drain upon a sieve, bruise it in a mortar until forming
quite a purée, take from the mortar and put it into the basin with the
juice, which mix well with it; let remain a quarter of an hour to
settle, then pour it into your jelly bag, pouring what runs through back
again into the bag until becoming as clear as spring water, strain the
syrup again through a napkin, add the clarified juice, two ounces of
clarified isinglass (No. 1372), and a few drops of liquid cochineal, to
give an orange tint; mix all well together, and pour into a mould
surrounded with ice, when set and ready to serve, turn out as before
directed.
* * * * *
Lemon Jelly is made precisely as directed for the orange jelly, using
all lemon-juice instead of orange, rather more syrup, and omitting the
cochineal. Some persons mix a handful of white sand well washed with the
juice which will assist the clarification, but the idea would be
objectionable to many.
No. 1237. _Orange Jelly, in the skins of the Oranges._
Procure twelve of the best-formed oranges, and with a round vegetable
cutter cut a hole of the size of a shilling at the stalk of each, then
with the handle of a teaspoon empty all the pulp from them and clear
away as much of the pith as possible, throw them into cold water to
harden and retake their original shapes, make a jelly with the pulps as
in the last, drain the skins of the oranges, stand them upon ice and
fill with the jelly, dress in pyramid when set, or cut them in quarters
for garnishing. Should you make a hole in clearing out the skins, place
a small piece of butter over previous to placing them upon ice, which
take off at the time of serving.
No. 1238. _Gelée de Fraises._
Pick two pounds of fresh strawberries, which put in a basin, with the
juice of two lemons, (over them) and a quart of clarified boiling syrup;
cover with paper, let remain twelve hours, colour a little deeper with
the essence of cochineal, pour into your jelly bag, and when it has all
run through add two ounces of clarified isinglass cold, but not set; mix
well and pour it into your mould.
No. 1239. _Gelée d’Abricots._
Take the stones from eighteen ripe fleshy apricots, cut into thin slices
and put them into a basin with the juice of three lemons; have ready
boiling a pint and a half of clarified syrup, pour it over the apricots,
cover the basin with paper, and let them remain until quite cold, then
drain the syrup through a napkin, add an ounce and a half of clarified
isinglass, (half cold,) mix well in, and pour into your mould. The
remainder of the apricot would make a very good marmalade.
No. 1240. _Gelée à la Bacchante._
Have two pounds of very fine green grapes, which pound in a mortar, with
a few leaves of spinach well washed, add half a gill of water, pass the
juice from them through a jelly bag, and mix it with three quarters of a
pound of clarified sugar, yielding a pint and a half of syrup, and two
ounces of clarified isinglass, both nearly cold, add a pint of
champagne, stir well in, pour the jelly in your mould and leave it upon
ice till set; when ready turn it out and serve.
No. 1241. _Gelée de Fleurs d’Orange au Vin de Champagne._
Clarify three quarters of a pound of sugar, and when boiling add two
ounces of candied orange-flowers, take off the fire, cover over closely,
and let remain till cold, then strain it through a napkin, when all has
run through add two ounces of clarified isinglass, (cold but not set,)
and nearly a pint of champagne, mix altogether and pour it into your
mould.
No. 1242. _Pain de Fruit à la Russe._
Pick a pint of fine red currants, half the quantity of raspberries, a
pound and a half of cherries, (stoned,) and nearly a pottle of
strawberries, place a few of them lightly at the bottom of the mould,
then have ready a quart of strawberry jelly (No. 1238), in which
dissolve a pound of powdered sugar; when well dissolved pour some of it
in the mould containing the fruit, which place upon the ice, let it
nearly set, then put more fruit with more jelly, proceeding in like
manner until the mould is full; when set dip it into warm water and turn
carefully into your dish.
No. 1243. _Crème à la Vanille._
Put the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of powdered
sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon; in another stewpan have a
pint of milk, in which put an ounce of isinglass, boil ten minutes,
stirring occasionally to keep it from burning, throw in two sticks of
vanilla, take it from the fire, put a cover upon the stewpan till three
parts cold, then take out the vanilla, pour the milk in the other
stewpan upon the eggs and sugar, mix well together, and stir over the
fire until becoming a little thick and adhering to the back of the
spoon, but do not let it boil, pass through a tammie into a round bowl;
when cold set the bowl upon ice, add four glasses of noyeau or
maresquino, keep stirring its contents, and when upon the point of
setting add three parts of a pint of cream well whipped, mix well
together and pouring into your mould, keep it upon ice till wanted, and
when ready to serve dip into warm water, wipe with a cloth, and turn it
out upon your dish.
No. 1244. _Crème aux Pistaches._
Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of very green pistachios, which
pound well in a mortar, with six ounces of sugar (upon which you have
rubbed the rind of a lemon) and eight bitter almonds, have three
quarters of a pint of milk boiling in a stewpan, into which put the
above ingredients, with three quarters of an ounce of isinglass
previously dissolved, boil a few minutes, then in another stewpan have
the yolks of five eggs, pour the milk upon them and stir altogether over
the fire till it thickens, then pour it into a bowl to cool, pound well
in a mortar two or three good handfuls of spinach well washed, then
place it in a strong cloth, which twist as tight as possible, thus
squeezing all the juice out of it, which put into a small stewpan over
the fire, the moment it boils it will curdle, pour it on the back of a
silk sieve, then place the bowl with the other ingredients upon the ice,
finish your cream as in the last, but at the moment of adding your
whipped cream, add also some of the spinach from the back of the sieve
sufficient to give it a beautiful light green colour.
No. 1245. _Crème à l’Ananas._
Take the half of a middling-sized pineapple, peel it, and throw the rind
into a stewpan containing a pint of boiling milk and an ounce of
isinglass, cut the pineapple up into small strips and put them into a
small preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar and a wineglassful of
sherry or water, place on the fire and let it boil to a thick syrup, in
another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, to which add the milk by
degrees, stirring all the while, straining it through a sieve, place
over the fire, keeping it stirred till thickening, then pass it through
a tammie into a bowl, add the syrup with the pineapples, leave it to
cool, then place it upon ice, and finish as for the crème à la vanille.
No. 1246. _Crème aux Amandes._
Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, which dry and
pound well with six ounces of lump sugar, put it into a stewpan, with
the yolks of four eggs, mix well together, then in another stewpan have
a pint of milk in which you have put an ounce of isinglass, boil until
reduced to three quarters of a pint, pass through a tammie, and pour
over the other ingredients, which stir over the fire till it thickens,
when pour into your bowl, let remain till cold, stirring occasionally to
keep it smooth, add two glasses of noyeau, and finish as in the last.
No. 1247. _Crème d’Orange._
Rub the rind of two oranges upon six ounces of lump sugar, which pound
and put into a small preserving-pan, with the juice of four large
oranges, let the sugar dissolve, boil over the fire till forming a thick
syrup, boil nearly a pint of milk in a stewpan, with an ounce of
isinglass ten minutes, then pour it into another stewpan containing the
yolks of five eggs, which place upon the fire, stirring until it
thickens, but not boiling, pass it through a tammie, add the syrup from
the orange, and finish as for the crème à la vanille.
No. 1248. _Crème aux Fraises._
Prepare a cream as directed for crème à la vanille, and when ready to
pour in your mould add half a pound of fresh gathered strawberries well
picked, placing them here and there whilst putting it in the mould, and
serve when ready.
No. 1249. _Crème d’Abricots._
Take a dozen ripe apricots, which cut in slices and put in a
preserving-pan, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of a
lemon, stew them over a slow fire till tender, then rub them through a
tammie with two wooden spoons, put rather more than half a pint of milk
to boil, with an ounce and a half of isinglass, reduce to half a pint,
then pour it into another stewpan containing the yolks of four eggs,
stir over the fire till it thickens, when pass it through a tammie into
a bowl, add the apricots, and finish as before.
No. 1250. _Crème au Ponche._
Boil an ounce of isinglass in three quarters of a pint of milk (five
minutes), take the rind from two lemons as thin as possible, without any
pith; directly the milk commences boiling throw it in, then in another
stewpan have the yolks of five eggs and four ounces of powdered sugar,
beat well together with a wooden spoon, then add the milk, mix well, and
stir over the fire till it thickens, pass through a tammie into a bowl,
and when cold add three glasses of maresquino, one of rum, and a
teaspoonful of arrack, place upon ice and finish as before; six liqueur
glasses of milk punch added instead of the above liqueurs would be very
excellent.
No. 1251. _Crème au Maresquin._
Prepare a cream as for the crème à la vanille, only adding a quarter of
an ounce more isinglass to the custard, and when cold mixing four
glasses of maresquino with it.
No. 1252. _Crème au Noyeau._
Proceed exactly as in the last, only substituting noyeau for maresquino.
No. 1253. _Crème au Café._
Put three ounces of the best (unroasted) Mocha coffee into a stewpan,
keep tossing over a sharp fire till it becomes yellow, in another
stewpan have a pint of milk in which you have boiled an ounce of
isinglass, throw your coffee into it, place the cover upon the stewpan
and let stand till half cold, have the yolks of five eggs in another
stewpan, with which mix four ounces of powdered sugar, then add the
milk, stir over the fire till it thickens, and finish as before.
No. 1254. _Crème au Caramel._
Put four ounces of powdered sugar in a stewpan, which stir over a slow
fire till quite melted and beginning to tint, take it off the fire; in
another stewpan have three quarters of a pint of milk in which you have
boiled an ounce of isinglass, pour it upon the caramel, which stir
occasionally until it is quite dissolved, pour into another stewpan with
the yolks of five eggs, stir over the fire till it thickens, when pass
through a tammie, and finish as before.
No. 1255. _Bavaroise aux Fraises._
Pick two pounds of fine red strawberries, which put into a basin with
half a pound of powdered sugar, let them remain half an hour, then rub
them through a tammie, add an ounce of isinglass, previously dissolved
in two wineglassfuls of water, boiled and passed through a tammie; set
the whole upon the ice, stirring until upon the point of setting, when
stir in a pint of cream well whipped, pour it into the mould, which keep
upon the ice till set, and when wanted dip it into warm water, and turn
out upon your dish.
No. 1256. _Bavaroise aux Framboises._
Proceed exactly as for the strawberries in the last, using a pound and a
quarter of raspberries and six ounces of currants; or either of the
above bavaroises may be made by putting the fruit into a preserving-pan
with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, moving it over the
fire until boiling, when strain it through a silk sieve mixing the juice
with the dissolved isinglass, and finish as before; should either of the
above be deficient in colour a little essence of cochineal may be used.
No. 1257. _Bavaroise aux Abricots._
Take twelve ripe fleshy apricots, cut them in halves, stone them, and
put them into a preserving-pan with half a pound of sugar, the juice of
two lemons, and an ounce of isinglass, dissolved in a little water, stew
them till quite tender, then rub them through a tammie, put them in a
basin when cold, stir it upon the ice, and when upon the point of
setting add a pint of cream well whipped, and pour into your mould.
No. 1258. _Bavaroise aux Poires._
Procure a dozen and a half of middling-sized pears, peel and cut out the
cores, slice them into a preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons
(the rind of one of which also add, cut very thin), twenty bitter
almonds blanched, and chopped very fine, half a pound of lump sugar, and
an ounce of clarified isinglass, place the pan upon a moderate fire,
moving the contents occasionally, stew until quite tender, when rub them
through a tammie, and finish as in the last.
No. 1259. _Bavaroise aux Pommes._
Peel and cut in quarters twenty small pippin apples, which put into a
preserving-pan, with the juice of two lemons, two glasses of sherry,
half a pound of sugar, and an ounce of clarified isinglass; proceed
precisely as in the last article, adding a glass of maresquino, if
approved of, or noyeau.
No. 1260. _Bavaroise aux Pistaches._
Blanch and skin four ounces of pistachios with twelve bitter almonds,
and pound them well with six ounces of sugar, upon which you have rubbed
the rind of a lemon; when well pounded throw it into three quarters of a
pint of boiling milk with three quarters of an ounce of isinglass, boil
altogether five minutes, then pour it into a bowl or basin, stand upon
the ice, keep stirring, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of
cream whipped and some of the preparation of spinach, as for the crème
aux pistaches (No. 1244); pour it into your mould, which must be
previously lightly oiled, and twenty chopped pistachios shook over the
interior, until adhering to the sides.
No. 1261. _Bavaroise à l’Ananas._
Procure a middlingsized pineapple, peel and cut it in slices, which put
into a small preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar, half an ounce
of isinglass, and a wineglassful of water, stew until quite tender, then
rub them through a tammie, set it on the ice, keeping it stirred; when
upon the point of setting add a pint of cream well whipped, mix well,
and pour it into your mould.
No. 1262. _Bavaroise au Maresquin._
Put one ounce and a half of isinglass in a stewpan, with half a pint of
water, the juice of two lemons, and four ounces of lump sugar, boil
altogether, reducing one half, skim and pass it through a tammie into a
bowl; when cold add four glasses of maresquino, and two of brandy, place
it on the ice, and when upon the point of setting add a pint of cream
well whipped, and pour it into your mould.
No. 1263. _Bavaroise au Ponche._
Boil one ounce of isinglass in a stewpan with the juice of four and the
rind of two lemons cut very thin, half a pound of sugar, and nearly half
a pint of water, reduce one half, then pass it through a tammie into a
bowl or basin, and when cold add two glasses of maresquino, two of rum,
and half a one of arrack, place it upon the ice and finish as in the
last, or use the milk punch as directed for crème au ponche.
I must here observe, that although I have stated as nearly as possible
the quantity of isinglass to be used in the foregoing recipes, yet there
are so many causes which may make it either too much or insufficient,
such as the difference in quality of isinglass, or the difference in the
quantity of juice extracted from the various fruits, which would make
it impossible to be exact; so that the surest method is to try a little
first upon the ice before adding the whipped cream, if too stiff, a
little more milk, juice, or liqueur (whatever it may be you are making)
must be added, but if not stiff enough, a little more clarified
isinglass, which is the method adopted by most practitioners.
No. 1264. _Charlotte Russe._
Line the inside of a plain round mould with Savoy biscuits (No. 1361),
cutting and placing them at the bottom to form a rosette, and standing
them upright round the sides, with a piece cut off the top and bottom of
each, and trimmed at the sides to make them stand quite close, stand the
mould upon ice, then have ready a crème au maresquin (No. 1251), to
which you have added a good glass of cognac brandy, with which you fill
the interior, when set and at the time of serving, turn over upon a dish
and lift off the mould.
No. 1265. _Charlotte Prussienne._
Put a little jelly (flavoured with a little brandy and coloured of a
beautiful crimson, with a little essence of cochineal) into a plain
round mould, covering the bottom half an inch in depth; place it upon
the ice, then line the sides of the mould with Savoy biscuits, and fill
with a bavaroise au maresquin (No. 1262), place it upon ice till set,
and when ready to serve dip the bottom of the mould very quickly in warm
water, and turn it over upon your dish.
No. 1266. _Charlotte Russe en mosaïque._
Have a plain round mould, at the bottom of which lay some grapes (white
and black), strawberries, pieces of apples (stewed), pears, or any fruit
in season; cover the bottom, variegating them as much as possible to
imitate mosaic, set the mould upon ice, and pour in a little clear
jelly, but only sufficient to just cover them; when set line the side of
the mould with the biscuits, and fill as for charlotte russe, only
introducing angelica and stewed apples, cut in large dice, with the
cream.
No. 1267. _Charlotte Russe aux Liqueurs._
Line a mould as directed in either of the three last articles, and fill
with a cream made as for the crème au maresquin (No. 1251), only using
one glass of curaçoa, one of noyeau, and one of maresquino, instead of
all maresquino.
No. 1268. _Charlotte aux Fraises._
Line a plain round mould with ripe strawberries by burying the mould in
ice to the rim, and dipping the strawberries in calf’s-foot jelly, first
covering the bottom with them cut in halves, the cut side downwards,
afterwards building them up the sides, the jelly (which must be cold,
but not set) causing them to adhere; when finished, fill it with the
cream as directed for the charlotte russe, and when ready to serve, dip
the mould in warm water, and turn it out upon your dish. The cream must
be very nearly set when you pour it in, or it would run between the
strawberries and produce a bad effect.
No. 1269. _Gateaux aux Fruits de belle saison._
Line a charlotte mould very tastefully with various kinds of fruits
(such as stoned cherries, strawberries, pieces of peaches, apricots,
apples, or pears, cut into very tasteful shapes, stewed in a little
syrup, and drained upon the back of a hair sieve), by dipping them into
jelly, forming some design at the bottom of the mould, and building them
in reverse rows up the sides, having the mould previously placed in ice,
when well set, terminate as in the last.
No. 1270. _Charlotte de Pommes au Beurre._
For the few following receipts, the russet apple is the one I should
recommend, it being the most suitable, not being so watery, or falling
in purée, but in case they cannot be obtained other sorts may be used,
which will require to be more reduced in stewing.
Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut twelve pieces
of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip them in clarified
butter, and lay them in a circle round the bottom of your mould; cut
also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds, dip them in butter,
and with them form a star in the centre of the circle, cover the whole
with a round piece of bread the size of the bottom of the mould and the
thickness of a penny-piece, cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide
and four inches in length, dip one after the other in clarified butter,
which stand upright, one half way over the other, all round the interior
of the mould; then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet apples,
which peel and cut in slices, put them into a round-bottomed
preserving-pan with six ounces of butter and half a pound of broken lump
sugar, with a little lemon-peel cut in strips, and a glass of sherry,
place them over a sharp fire, tossing over occasionally, but keeping
them together in a cake; when quite tender fill your mould (having
previously well egged and bread-crumbed the interior), place another
round piece of bread (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the apples, and
stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well browned, take
out and turn it over upon your dish, have a few spoonfuls of red currant
jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, melt it over the fire, and
when quite hot pour round the charlotte; sugar and salamander the top if
not quite crisp, and serve.
No. 1271. _Charlotte de Pommes à la Confiture._
Proceed as in the last, but when the apples are ready mix a few
spoonfuls of apricot marmalade with them and fill the mould; place it in
the oven, and serve as before.
No. 1272. _Chartreuse de Pommes._
Procure twenty small russet apples, cut off the top and bottom of each,
and with a long vegetable cutter cut out as many pieces as possible of
the thickness of a quill, and about an inch in length, have in a stewpan
upon the fire a thick syrup made from half a pound of sugar, with the
juice of a lemon and half a pint of water; when well reduced throw in
half your pieces of apples, stew them until tender, but not to break,
take them out and lay them upon a hair sieve, put the other half of the
apples into the syrup, stew them until nearly done, then add a little
essence of cochineal to give them a crimson colour, stew a minute or so
more, then take them out, lay them on the sieve till cold, lightly oil a
plain round mould, cut some pieces of green angelica, with which form a
star at the bottom of the mould, and a border round the bottom, then
with the white pieces of apples make a row round the sides, standing
each piece upon one end slantingly, one leaning upon the other, above
which place a row of the red pieces in the same manner, and so on
alternately till you reach the top; you have previously peeled a dozen
and a half of apples, which cut in slices and put in a preserving-pan,
with half a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon, a small piece of
butter, a little powdered cinnamon, and a small glass of rum, place them
over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until forming a thick
marmalade, put them in a basin until cold, fill your chartreuse, and
when ready to serve turn it out upon your dish, garnish with fillets of
red currant jelly, and pour a little white syrup reserved from the
apples over.
No. 1273. _Suédoise de Pommes._
This very grotesque entremet was never a favorite of mine; any kind of
ornaments, such as cascades, ruins, arches, &c., may be made from them,
and ornamented with various fruits, but they look very heavy, and from
the apples being so much boiled and reduced become very unpalatable,
they being nothing more than apples boiled in syrup to a very firm
marmalade; I shall not here enter into the various modes of dressing it,
but substitute other entremets, which, if not so ornamental, are at any
rate much more palatable.
No. 1274. _Pain de Pommes à la Russe._
Put one pound and a half of lump sugar and a pint and a half of water
into a round-bottomed copper preserving-pan, place it over a sharp fire
and reduce it to au casse (No. 1379), have ready twenty-four good brown
pippin apples peeled and cut into slices, which put into the sugar,
keeping stirred until it becomes quite a thick marmalade, take off the
fire and put it into a cylinder mould, previously slightly oiled, shake
it well down and let it remain until quite cold, when turn it out of the
mould upon your dish; have a few spoonfuls of currant jelly in a
stewpan, which melt over the fire, add two glasses of good old rum, and
when partly cold pour over and serve with whipped cream in the centre,
in which you have introduced a quarter of an ounce of candied
orange-flowers.
No. 1275. _Croquettes de Pommes._
Prepare some apples as in the above, (or the remains of one previously
served,) when cold form it into the shape of pears, have three eggs in
a basin well whisked, dip each piece into it, then throw them into a
dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them over with a knife, then again dip them
into the eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry of a light brown colour in very
hot lard, dress them upon a napkin in pyramid, and serve with sifted
sugar flavoured with orange over them.
No. 1276. _Pommes au Riz._
Peel and quarter twelve good-sized apples, put them into a
preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the thin rind
of a lemon in strips, the juice of another, and a wineglassful of water,
pass them over a sharp fire, and when tender lay them upon the back of a
hair sieve to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a stewpan, with a
quart of milk, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it
upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until quite tender, placing
a little fire upon the lid, if it becomes dry before it is tender add a
little more milk, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of a
pound of butter, and four eggs, stir them well in, stir over the fire
until becoming again thick, when put it upon a dish to get cold, then
form a stand with it upon your dish eight inches in diameter and three
in height, but hollow in the centre, where dress some of the apples,
more rice over, then more apples, forming a pyramid; you have previously
reduced the syrup drained from the apples, which pour over the whole,
and garnish with some very green angelica, forming any design your fancy
may dictate. Pommes au riz may be served hot as well as cold.
No. 1277. _Poires au Riz._
Peel and cut in halves eighteen small ripe pears, which put in a small
preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, a little
water, and the juice of two lemons. Stew them till tender, then lay them
upon a dish to cool, and mix three tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade
with the syrup, have some rice prepared as in the last, with which make
a stand, but not quite so high, dress the pears in a border in the
interior, and again in the centre dress the remainder of the rice in
pyramid; when ready to serve pour the syrup over, and garnish tastefully
with angelica round.
No. 1278. _Abricots au Riz._
Proceed exactly as in the last, only passing two dozen of apricots cut
in halves, with the kernels from the stones previously blanched and
skinned, in the syrup instead of pears, dress them upon the dish
precisely the same.
No. 1279. _Pommes au Riz en Timbale._
Line a plain round mould with pâte fine (No. 1136), having previously
buttered it, the paste must not be thicker than a shilling, then line
the interior of the paste with rice dressed as for pommes au riz,
placing eight apples in the centre, likewise dressed as for pommes au
riz, cover another sheet of paste over, and put in a hot oven until the
paste is quite done; when three parts cold turn out upon your dish, mask
it over with apricot marmalade, and decorate it with dried cherries and
blanched pistachios, according to taste; do not serve until quite cold.
Apricots and pears may also be used; this entremet may also be served
hot.
No. 1280. _Pommes à la Trianon._
Put four ounces of ground rice in a stewpan, with a pint and a quarter
of milk and two ounces of butter, stir until boiling, then add the rind
of a lemon cut very thin, let simmer over a slow fire until the rice is
done and becomes rather thick, when take out the lemon-peel and add a
quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and the yolks of eight eggs, stir
again over the fire until the eggs are set, and put it out upon a dish
to get cold, then turn twelve golden pippin apples, taking off the rind
without leaving the mark of your knife, having previously with a long
vegetable cutter taken out the cores, rub the apples with lemon-juice
and stew them in a thick syrup (made with three quarters of a pound of
sugar boiled with half a pint of water and the juice of a lemon), stew
them until tender, but keep them whole, peel and quarter three oranges,
which (after having taken out the apples) just give a boil up in the
syrup, then dress the rice in pyramid in the centre of your dish,
surrounded with the apples interspersed with the quarters of oranges,
and pour the syrup over when ready to serve.
No. 1281. _Pommes Meringuées._
Line a small raised pie-mould, three inches in height and eight in
diameter, with pâte fine (No. 1136), about a quarter of an inch in
thickness, or if no mould raise a crust with the hands of pâte a
dresser, fill it with bran or flour, and bake in a moderate oven; when
done empty it and have ready some apples dressed as for charlotte de
pommes (No. 1270), or dressed in syrup as in the last, with which fill
the croustade, then make a meringue preparation (No. 1218), of five
eggs, which lay over the top, smoothing it nicely, and ornamenting it
with some of the mixture, by piping it with a paper funnel according to
your taste, sift a little sugar over, and place it in a very slow oven
till it becomes crisp, and serve when ready either hot or cold.
No. 1282. _Pommes à la Vestale._
Make a pyramid of rice (upon a dish) dressed as for pommes au riz (No.
1276), peel and cut eight russet apples in slices and put them into a
preserving-pan, with half a pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon,
stew till quite tender and put them into a basin to cool, then cut nine
small apples, (golden pippins) in halves, to which give the shape of
cups, which stew in a thick syrup until nearly tender, but not to break,
then place the apples upon the pyramid, make eighteen small tartelettes
(No. 1155) of thin gum paste, small enough to fix in each cup of apple,
and dress them in pyramid upon the others; when ready to serve cover the
whole with thick syrup, pour a teaspoonful of brandy into each
tartelette, with some in the dish, which set on fire at the moment of
going to table, it has a very pleasing effect.
No. 1283. _Pommes au Beurre._
Peel eighteen russet apples, which cut in quarters and trim of a nice
shape, put them into a small preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter
and three quarters of a pound of sugar, having previously rubbed the
rind of an orange upon it and pounded it, pass them over a sharp fire,
moving occasionally until quite tender, have ready buttered a plain dome
mould, put the apples into it, pressing them down a little close; when
half cold turn it out of the mould upon a dish, and cover all over with
apricot marmalade; when cold it is ready to serve.
No. 1284. _Miroton de Pommes._
Procure a dozen russet apples, which cut into slices a quarter of an
inch in thickness, peel and take out the cores with a round cutter, then
put two ounces of butter in a sauté-pan, spread it over the bottom and
lay in your apples, with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of
two lemons, stew gently over a moderate fire; when done dress them
rather high in crown upon your dish, melt three spoonfuls of red
currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix a glass of Madeira wine,
which pour over when ready to serve.
No. 1285. _Beignets de Pommes._
Make a paste as follows: put a pound of sifted flour into a basin, with
which mix a good half pint of water, mix it with a wooden spoon until
very smooth, then have an ounce and a half of butter melted in a
stewpan, which stir into it, whisk the whites of three eggs very stiff,
which also stir in gently, then have six russet apples, which cut in
slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel them and take out the
cores with a round cutter, dip each piece separately into the batter,
when completely but thinly enveloped drop them into a stewpan of hot
lard, to fry them well, the lard should not at first be too hot, but
become hotter as they proceed in cooking, proceeding thus till you have
fried the whole of them a nice light brown colour, drain them upon a
cloth, then lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze them
with the salamander, serve dressed in a double crown upon a napkin.
No. 1286. _Beignets d’Oranges._
Prepare a paste or batter as in the last, then peel eight middling-sized
oranges, quarter them, without breaking the thin skin that divides them,
and take off all the white pith, dip each piece singly into the batter,
and then into a stewpan of hot lard; fry of a nice light colour, drain
upon a napkin, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze with
the salamander, and serve them dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.
The fruit for any description of fritters may be soaked in any liqueur
for half an hour before they are required, but it often prevents their
being well fried.
No. 1287. _Beignets de Pêches._
Skin and cut in halves twelve ripe but firm peaches, take out the stones
and put the peaches into a basin, with a quarter of a pound of powdered
sugar, toss them together lightly, but not to break the peaches; have a
batter prepared as in the last, in which dip each piece of peach
separately, fry them in lard, not too hot, glaze and serve precisely as
in the last.
No. 1288. _Beignets d’Abricots._
Gut twelve or fourteen apricots in halves, put them into a basin with a
little powdered sugar, and proceed exactly as for beignets de pêches.
No. 1289. _Croquettes de Riz._
Well wash half a pound of the best Carolina rice, which put into a
stewpan, with a pint and a half of milk, and a quarter of a pound of
butter, place it upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a
slow fire, cover the stewpan and let simmer very slowly until quite
tender; rub the rind of a lemon upon a lump of sugar weighing a quarter
of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite fine, add it to the rice, with
the yolks of eight eggs (mix well), stir them a few minutes longer over
the fire until the eggs thicken, but do not let it boil, lay out upon a
dish, when cold form it into a number of small balls, or pears, or into
long square pieces, according to fancy; have three or four eggs in a
basin well whisked, dip each piece in singly, and then into a dish of
bread-crumbs, smooth them gently with a knife, dip them again into the
eggs and bread-crumbs, put them into a wire basket, which put in a
stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light brown colour, drain on a
cloth, dress them pyramidically upon a napkin, and serve with powdered
sugar sifted over them.
No. 1290. _Croquettes de Crème au Riz._
Proceed precisely as in the last, only using ground rice instead of
whole, they are finished and served exactly the same.
No. 1291. _Croquettes de Macaroni._
Blanch six ounces of macaroni in half a gallon of boiling water until
tender, then strain and put it in a basin of cold water; when cold cut
it into pieces half an inch in length, and put it into a stewpan
containing a pint and a half of boiling milk, in which you have infused
a stick of vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add a quarter of a
pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and the yolks of eight
eggs, stir them well in over the fire until the eggs thicken, then pour
out upon a dish, and proceed precisely as for the croquettes de riz.
No. 1292. _Croquettes de Vermicelle._
Put six ounces of vermicelli in a stewpan with a pint and a half of
milk, boil until very tender and becoming thick, keeping it stirred with
a spoon, then add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of
a Seville orange has been rubbed, and two ounces of butter, stir well
in, add the yolks of eight eggs, and proceed as directed in the last
article.
Croquettes of semolina may also be made the same way.
No. 1298. _Crème Frite à la Patissière._
Put the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan with two good tablespoonfuls of
sifted flour, mix quite smooth with a wooden spoon; then add a pint of
boiling milk or cream, stir in by degrees and place it over the fire,
keeping stirred until it thickens, add an ounce of butter, six ounces
of sugar, two ounces of crushed ratafias, a little orange-flower-water,
and three whole eggs, mix the whole well together, and stir it a few
minutes longer over the fire until the eggs set; then pour it out upon a
sauté-pan, previously oiled, and when quite cold cut it into pieces one
inch wide and two and a half long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs
twice over, the same as for croquettes, fry them in the same manner,
dress upon a napkin as high as you can, with sifted sugar over, they may
be flavoured also with vanilla or lemon. They may be varied in shape
according to fancy.
No. 1294. _Beignets Soufflés à la Vanille._
Place half a pint of milk in a stewpan over the fire, and when boiling
put in a fresh stick of vanilla, place a cover upon the stewpan, let it
infuse ten minutes, then take out the vanilla and add rather more than
an ounce of butter, place it again upon the fire, and when boiling stir
in quickly six ounces of flour; dry the paste well over the fire,
keeping it from sticking to the bottom of the stewpan, then take it off
and stir in six whole eggs gradually, and six ounces of powdered sugar;
have ready a stewpan of hot lard, into which drop the above mixture in
pieces about the size of small walnuts, fry a nice colour, and when
quite done drain them upon a cloth, and serve upon a napkin with sifted
sugar over; they may also be flavoured with orange-flower-water.
No. 1295. _Frangipane._
Put six whole eggs in a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of flour, beat
well together with a wooden spoon, then add a pint of milk or cream, and
keep stirring over the fire until it becomes thick and upon the point of
boiling; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, upon which the rind of an
orange or lemon has been rubbed, two ounces of crushed ratafias, and a
small glass of brandy (mix well); put two ounces of butter in a stewpan,
place it upon the fire, and when getting a little brown stir it into the
frangipane, which is then ready for use; it may be flavoured also with
vanilla or any of the flavours used for such purposes.
No. 1296. _Omelettes à la Célestine._
Put a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of
flour together in a basin, which well mix with four eggs till smooth,
then add nearly half a pint of milk; have ready an omelette-pan, in
which put a small piece of butter, when the pan is quite hot pour in two
tablespoonfuls of the mixture, which let spread all over the pan, when
quite set and of a light brown colour underneath, turn it over upon the
bottom of a stewpan-lid, previously buttered, and again from that upon a
cloth, proceeding thus with the whole mixture, then spread a teaspoonful
of apricot marmalade upon each; have ready some frangipane as directed
in the last, quite hot, lay a piece the size of a small sausage upon
each, and fold them up neatly, trim the ends, lay them upon a
baking-sheet, sift sugar over and glaze lightly with the salamander,
dress them in crown, or in pyramid upon your dish, and serve very hot.
No. 1297. _Pannequets à la Confiture._
Put a quarter of a pound of sifted flour into a basin with four eggs,
mix them together very smoothly, then add half a pint of milk or cream,
and a little grated nutmeg, put a piece of butter in your pan (it
requires but a very little), and when quite hot put in two
tablespoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan, place it
upon the fire, and when coloured upon one side turn it over, then turn
it upon your cloth; proceed thus till they are all done, then spread
apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them up neatly, lay them
upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze nicely with the salamander,
and serve upon a napkin; the above may be served without the marmalade,
being then the common pancake.
REMOVES. SECOND COURSE.
My readers could not have failed to remark the numerous innovations in
all classes of dishes throughout this work, which nothing but constant
study, practice, and profound knowledge of the art could have brought to
perfection. In the following Removes still greater innovations will be
found than in any other department, for I have always aimed at producing
the greatest effect upon the last dishes sent to table, particularly as
they are the ones over which each convive has time to pass remarks, and
admire, if properly executed. The transformation of the second course
from the first has never failed to give the greatest satisfaction, and
has often caused the greatest hilarity at table; some parties,
unacquainted with them, have ordered their removal, thinking they
belonged to the first course, whilst others have actually carved them
before discovering their mistake. And, again, those Removes being only
demi-glacé, and not too sweet, refresh the palate, disposes it more
favorably for the dessert, and does not prevent the freely partaking of
the ices which there cannot be avoided. Any kind of ice pudding, however
excellent when done to perfection, is too close an imitation of the
dessert ices, and properly belong to the confectioner.
To regenerate that finish of the dinner, which is very properly much
thought of in England, it only requires a little artistic feeling, which
is soon acquired by practice and perseverance. To simplify them as much
as possible, I have only described one sort of sponge-cake, which is
always varied in flavour by the different kinds of fruits and ices with
which they are filled.
The introduction of atelettes of fruit in the Removes as well as in the
jellies, is also quite a new idea, and renders the appearance of both
very novel as well as very handsome.
No. 1298. _Gateau Britannique à l’Amiral._
Make a sponge-cake of twenty eggs as directed (No. 1369), have a tin
mould in the shape of a vessel, which paper well at the sides, to
prevent the mixture running over whilst baking (the mould requires to be
eighteen inches in length, six in breadth, and high in proportion);
butter and lightly flour the interior of the mould, into which pour the
mixture, which bake an hour and a half in a moderate oven (this cake
requires to be baked a day or two before using); mask the exterior with
chocolate iceing (No. 1383) to imitate the colour of a ship, when quite
dry partly empty the interior,[16] leaving a piece across in the centre,
to fix the mast upon, which you have made of pâte d’office (No. 1137),
as also the ladders, rigging, and guns, by rolling pieces of the paste
to the thickness required with the hands, cutting them to the lengths
required, and baking them a light colour in a moderate oven; mask the
guns with chocolate iceing, made rather darker than for the cake, and
form the muzzles with small rings of puff paste, place them judiciously
at the sides, as also the mast and rigging at their respective places
(see design), place the vessel upon a dish, laying rather upon one side,
lay rolls of gelée à la bacchante (No. 1240) round, over which lay thin
slices of the same to form waves, make the sails of wafer or rice-paper,
fix them to the mast as if filled with wind, upon the side the vessel is
laying on, have also a flag made of the same material, painted with a
little water-colour, which place at the stern; well soak the interior
with wine and brandy, mixed with apricot marmalade, just before serving,
and when ready fill with a delicate vanilla ice (No. 1381); you have
previously formed some ropes of spun sugar, which affix to the rigging
at the moment of serving.
This dish has a pleasing effect, and, unlike many ornamental dishes, the
whole of it is eatable. It may be rather difficult for many, but with a
few trials, aided by the above directions, I flatter myself it may be
easily accomplished, but of course a great deal depends upon the taste
of the person employed, who, if they could not accomplish one thing,
would resort to another, and succeed in making a very handsome dish.
Should you have no mould to bake the cake in, bake it in something as
near as you can to the size, and afterwards shape it with a knife; and,
again, should it be inconvenient to make the green jelly for garnishing,
any other description of white clear jelly may be used. The remains and
trimmings are very good made into cabinet pudding.
No. 1299. _Hure de Sanglier glacé en surprise_,
Or mock boar’s head; this dish, although more simple than the last, is
no less pleasing. Make a sponge-cake of thirty eggs (No. 1369), which
bake (in an oval baking-dish or common tin dish-cover) nearly two hours;
the cake requires to be ten inches in thickness at one end, and about
six at the other (which may be accomplished by tilting the dish slightly
upon one end to bake the cake); the next day cut it into the shape of a
dressed boar’s head with a knife, then carefully take out the interior
to within an inch of the surface, in as large pieces as possible, put
the pieces back again to keep the cake in its proper shape, turn it over
upon the bottom of a large dish, and mask it all over with a chocolate
iceing as near as possible to the colour of the real boar’s head, form
the eyes with white iceing, placing a dried cherry in the centre, and
forming the eyelashes with thin fillets of pistachios, make the tusks of
gum paste (No. 1139) or pâte d’office (No. 1137), and the ears of puff
paste (No. 1132), by working it a little with the hands, giving them
their shape, and baking them upon two round cutters of a corresponding
size, fix them with a stiffish paste made of flour and white of eggs,
when done, upon the head, and mask them also with chocolate iceing; fix
in the tusks, and when well dried and ready to serve empty the interior,
which soak with a little brandy, and fill with a lemon-cream ice (No.
1385) in which you have introduced four glasses of curaçoa, turn it over
upon a silver dish, glaze over with currant jelly, melted and mixed with
a little wine, and garnish with gelée au citron (No. 1225) made reddish
with a little cochineal, to give it the colour of a brown aspic (No.
1360), form some bold design upon the top (between the eyes) with it in
croutons, and the remainder chopped and also in croutons around.
No. 1300. _Cigne glacé en surprise._
Make a large sponge-cake of forty eggs as directed (No. 1369), bake it
in a large oval tin dish-cover (about two hours and a half would be the
time required), and the next day cut it with your knife into the form of
the body of a swan (leaving a space in the breast down the front for the
neck), empty the interior as in the last; ice it over with a white
iceing, and when upon the point of setting ruffle it with the prongs of
a fork in imitation of feathers, form the head and neck of pâte d’office
(No. 1137) by rolling out a piece with the hands of sufficient length
and proportionate thickness to form the neck, being rather thicker at
one end than at the other; cut it in halves lengthwise, placing them
upon a buttered baking-sheet, the cut side downwards, model each half
head with taste separately, form each piece exactly alike, and of the
same size for the neck, being somewhat in the form of the letter S, but
finishing quite straight at the bottom, bake them in a moderate oven,
and when done join them together with a paste made of flour and white of
egg, with which also affix it to the dish you intend serving it upon
(previously scraping the bottom of the neck quite flat with a knife),
mask it over with a white iceing, and when upon the point of setting
ruffle it with the prongs of a fork, and set in a warm place until dry;
an hour before serving pour some gelée au maresquin (No. 1227) cold, but
not set, into the dish, filling it to the inner rim, and stand it in a
cold place until set; when ready to serve empty the interior of the
body, which soak with three glasses of maresquino and three of brandy;
fill with a vanilla ice (No. 1381), with which you have mixed two ounces
of citron, two ounces of angelica, two ounces of currants, and two
ounces of Smyrna raisins, the citron and angelica cut into dice, and all
soaked three hours in maresquino and brandy; turn it over on your dish
upon the jelly, fixing it neatly to the neck, you have previously made
some sucre filé (No. 1380), with which form the wings and tail, and fix
in their respective places, whip about a quart more of the jelly as
above upon ice until upon the point of setting, and with it, when set,
form a kind of foam at the breast, diminishing it at the sides by
degrees, in imitation of waves caused by the bird swimming.
No. 1301. _Jambon glacé en surprise._
Make a sponge-cake of twenty-four eggs as directed (No. 1369), bake it
in a mould of the shape of a ham, or in a baking-dish, having a cake
about six inches in thickness, and when cold cutting it with a knife in
the shape of a ham, empty the interior as before, mask the exterior with
chocolate iceing as near to the colour of real cooked ham as possible,
over which sprinkle a few chopped pistachios and crushed ratafias, in
imitation of chopped parsley and bread-crumbs; you have reserved a
little of the iceing, with which mix some more melted chocolate, making
it a very dark brown, it will when cool form a kind of paste, with which
form a part of the skin of a ham left upon the knuckle end, cut in
points when dry and ready to serve, line the interior with apricot
marmalade, soak it a little with brandy, fill it with apricot ice (No.
1387), turn over upon your dish, glaze with a little melted currant
jelly, form a star of clear brownish calf’s-foot jelly upon the top,
flavoured according to taste, with some chopped and in croutons around,
run a skewer in at the knuckle, upon which place a paper frill, and
serve.
No. 1302. _Gigot de Mouton bouilli glacé en surprise._
Make a cake of the same size as the last, but bake it in a smaller
compass, that is, more round and smaller at one end than at the other;
the next day form it with your knife into the shape of a leg of mutton,
mask it over with a white iceing in which you have introduced a very
little chocolate, to give it the colour as near as possible of the fat
of a leg of mutton when boiled (having previously emptied the interior);
form the knuckle-bone of pâte d’office, and imitate the lean part with
some chocolate iceing; when dry and ready to serve, soak the interior
with four spoonfuls of preserved greengages, mixed with two glasses of
sherry, and fill it with strawberry ice (No. 1388); turn it over upon
your dish, place a paper frill upon the knuckle, surround it with gelée
mousseuse (No. 1232) in broken pieces, to imitate mashed turnips, and a
few apples dressed as for pommes à la Trianon (No. 1280), to imitate
whole ones; make also a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a
pint of milk (as directed for crème au maresquin, omitting the
isinglass), to which, when cold and thickish, add an ounce of very green
pistachios, blanched and coarsely chopped in imitation of capers, which
pour over the cake previous to garnishing.
No. 1303. _Selle de Mouton à la Jardinière en surprise._
Make a sponge-cake with the same quantity of eggs as in the last, which
bake in a long square baking-dish, or form a square in a round one with
bands of paper, fixing them in their place with pieces of common paste
against the side of the dish; the next day form it with a knife to the
shape of a saddle of mutton, trussed as for roasting (as near as
possible), ice it as in the last, but rather darker, with chocolate, to
imitate a real one when roasted (imitate it from a real one should you
have one); you have previously emptied the interior, form the lean parts
with darker coloured chocolate iceing, and the flaps by graining it with
a knife; when dry and ready to serve fill with apricot ice (No. 1387),
turn it over upon your dish, garnish with a custard made as for vanilla
ice (No. 1381), but coloured brown with a little melted chocolate, to
which add a quantity of fruits, dressed as directed for chartreuse de
pommes (No. 1272), thus imitating a sauce with vegetables; green
currants passed in sugar, and mixed with and served in the custard, make
a very good imitation of peas.
No. 1304. _Cotelettes de Mouton glacé en surprise._
Make a sponge-cake of eighteen eggs as directed (No. 1369), which bake
in a baking-dish so that the cake shall be about four inches in
thickness; when baked and cold cut it in thin slices, lay them upon your
table, and spread apricot marmalade upon each alternate slice, then lay
those slices without the marmalade upon the others, press gently
together and cut them into pieces about three inches in length and one
and a half in breadth, of the shape of cotelettes, using a round cutter
to form the circle of the cotelette, have ready some thin light
chocolate iceing in a basin and some ratafia-crumbs in a dish, mask the
cotelettes lightly with the chocolate iceing and throw them into the
crumbs, take them out, pat them gently with your knife, put a piece of
blanched almond in the end to imitate the bone, and put them upon a
baking-sheet in the screen to dry; when ready make a thin border of
apricot or any other marmalade on a silver dish, upon which dress the
cotelettes in border, garnish round with strawberry jelly, chopped and
in croutons, and serve with a vanilla ice dressed very high in the
centre.
No. 1305. _Haunch of Lamb glacé en surprise._
Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of thirty-six eggs, which bake in a very
long mould; when cold cut it into the form of a haunch of lamb (or it
may be baked in two separate pieces and afterwards joined together with
the iceing), empty the interior, which again put into the cake to keep
it in shape, mask it over with an iceing of a light gold colour, made by
adding a little melted chocolate and cochineal; when dry and ready to
serve moisten with some brandy and preserved strawberries, and fill with
strawberry or vanilla ice (Nos. 1381, 1388), place a frill upon the
knuckle-bone, which you have previously formed of pâte d’office, glaze
it over with apricot marmalade and currant jelly mixed, pour a little
melted currant jelly mixed with wine, in imitation of gravy, round and
serve.
No. 1306. _Shoulder of Lamb glacé en surprise_
Is very good for a small party; make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of twelve
eggs, bake it in a flat sauté-pan, and when done and cold form it into
the shape of a shoulder, empty a little from the interior, fix on the
knuckle, which you have formed of pâte d’office (No. 1137), and mask the
whole over with nearly a white iceing to imitate a boiled shoulder of
lamb; when dry and ready to serve dish it up with vanilla ice (No. 1381)
in the interior, and round in imitation of mashed turnips.
No. 1307. _Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Réforme en surprise aux
Champignons._
Make a sponge-cake as directed for cotelettes de mouton en surprise (No.
1304), cut it into pieces of the same shape, but much smaller; mask them
over lightly with apricot marmalade, and dip them into ratafia crumbs,
it will give them a lighter appearance; form the bone with strips of
blanched almonds, and dress them the reverse way on your dish upon a
border of marmalade, melt some currant jelly in a stewpan, with which
mix some syrup of pineapples, put in forty thin strips of pineapples,
forty ditto of green angelica, and forty preserved cherries, pour it
over the cotelettes, and when set and ready to serve fill the centre
with a lemon ice (No. 1385), and garnish with some mushrooms of
meringues (No. 1222).
No. 1308. _Chapon en surprise glacé aux Fruits._
Make a sponge-cake of twenty eggs, bake it in a long roundish mould, or
an old tin dish-cover; when done and quite cold form it with your knife
into the shape of a roasted capon trussed, with the legs inside; form
the pinions of the wings with pâte d’office, stick them to the sides in
their proper position, then mask it over with a light chocolate iceing
in which you have introduced a little prepared cochineal, to give it the
colour as near as possible of a roast capon; you have previously
emptied it, and again filled it to keep it in shape, but when perfectly
dry again empty it and line the interior with orange marmalade, soak it
with a little wine, fill the interior with an orange cream ice (No.
1386) flavoured with noyeau, turn it over upon a silver dish, garnish
round with pears dressed as for poires au riz (No. 1277), mixing their
syrup with a little apricot marmalade, and pouring it over them; you
have made a croustade of pâte d’office, in imitation of the one of
bread, in the form of a gondolière, upon which place a few strawberries,
a peach, and cherries, which place at the head of the dish with silver
atelettes of fruit upon it, and serve. To form a good imitation of a
capon, you require to have a real one before you, or at least a fowl, if
possible.
No. 1309. _Petits Poussins en surprise à la Sutherland._
Make a sponge-cake of thirty eggs (No. 1369), and when finished stir in
a quarter of a pound of fresh butter (melted) very gently, bake it in
three oval moulds, each about the size of a large chicken; when quite
cold cut each one into the shape and size of a spring chicken trussed as
for boiling, (having a real one as a model,) empty the interiors, place
it in again to keep them in shape, mask them all over with a white
iceing (No. 1373) to which you have added a little brown brandy instead
of lemon-juice; you have previously formed the claws of pâte d’office
(No. 1137) and baked them, fix them at the sides in their proper
positions and place them to dry, you have also made three cakes of
Génoise paste (No. 1201) of the same size as the above, and when cold
cut two of them into the form of Russian tongues, well trussed, and make
them with a chocolate iceing as near as possible to the colour of real
tongues, with the cake cut a croustade in imitation of a bread
croustade, mask it with a very light chocolate iceing, and ornament it
with small designs of puff paste baked very white, or gum paste, place
it at the head of your dish; when ready to serve, fix three silver
atelettes of fruits (see Plate) upon the top; again empty the interior
of the imitation chickens and fill them with a crème plombière (No.
1332), place two of them with their tails towards the croustades, with a
fine bunch of black grapes hanging from it, then the two imitation
tongues, which glaze over with melted currant jelly, then the other
imitation chicken between them, place the remainder of the crème
plombière round and between, place a fine red strawberry with the stalk
on here and there, and serve with a thickish custard in which you have
introduced two glasses of noyeau over each.
No. 1310. _Dindonneau en surprise à la Gondolièrs._
Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of thirty eggs, which bake (in an old tin
dish-cover) in a moderate oven; when done turn it out upon a sieve, and
when quite cold cut it into the shape of a trussed turkey, (having a
real one for a model, which may be used in the first course, these
dishes only being appropriated to large dinners,) which mask over with a
chocolate iceing to imitate as near as possible the colour of a roasted
turkey, having previously emptied the interior, which again place in to
keep its shape, form the claws with pâte d’office (No. 1137), and cover
them with a little of the iceing made darker with a little more
chocolate, make a nice croustade of Génoise paste (No. 1201), the shape
of the head of a gondola, which fix at the head of the dish, again empty
the cake, soak the interior with brandy and apricot marmalade, fill with
an apricot cream half iced, turn over upon your dish, garnish round with
a red mousseuse jelly in croutons, and small pears cut in halves and
stewed as directed (No. 1145), glaze over with currant jelly melted with
a little wine, and serve.
No. 1311. _Peacock à la Louis Quatorze._
Make a cake of the same size as in the last, bake the same, and when
done and cold cut in the shape of the body of a large bird, mask it over
with a pinkish white iceing, rather thick, having previously emptied it;
have ready blanched a quarter of a pound of pistachios (very green),
make the neck and head of pâte d’office in two separate halves
lengthwise, as directed for the swan, only giving the head the shape of
a peacock, bake a light colour, and join them together with a paste made
of whites of eggs and flour, fix it upon the dish with the same paste,
having formed the bottom so that the body will adhere closely and
unperceivedly to it, mask it with the same iceing, cut the pistachios in
flat fillets, and stick them into the neck to form feathers, you have
previously mixed a quantity of red and green sugar (No. 1376) together,
which sprinkle thickly over the body of the bird; when dry, again empty
the interior, which moisten with Malaga wine and brandy, fill with
strawberry ice (No. 1388), turn over upon your dish, fitting it to the
head and neck, form the wings with sucre filé (No. 1380), also the tail,
fix the skins of some of the cherries upon the tail to imitate feathers.
Any one perfect in sugar will form the tail open, which will produce a
magnificent effect; have some very light jelly flavoured with gold
water, (containing plenty of gold leaves,) chop it into rather small
pieces, with which lightly cover the body of the bird; the crown of the
head and eyes must be well imitated with sucre filé, a small black
currant imitating the balls of the eyes, garnish round tastefully with
croutons of the above jelly and serve.
No. 1312. _Faisans en surprise glacé au Chocolat._
Make a sponge-cake (No. 1369) of twenty eggs, which bake in two
separate oval moulds; when cold cut them into the shape of two pheasants
trussed as for roasting, empty each one as before, putting the pieces
again in to keep them in shape, make the legs and pinions of the wings
with pâte d’office (No. 1137), mask them over with chocolate iceing (No.
1374), imitating as near as possible the colour of roasted pheasants,
making the legs darker than the body, imitate larding upon the breast
with some blanched sweet almonds cut into thin strips of about equal
sizes; when dry and ready to serve line the interiors with currant
jelly, and fill with a crème glacée au chocolat (No. 1383), or au café
Moka (No. 1382), turn them over upon your dish and garnish with some
jelly (No. 1225), chopped and in croutons round; white strawberries and
pieces of apples prepared as for the chartreuse de pommes (No. 1272),
and soaked in brandy, may be served with the ice in the interior.
No. 1313. _Maniveau de Champignons glacé en surprise._
Make a basket of pâte d’office (No. 1137), which is done by rolling out
a piece of the paste to three quarters of an inch in thickness, with
length and breadth corresponding to the size of your dish, place it in a
baking-sheet, put it in a moderate oven, and when about half baked cut
an odd number of holes all round near to the edge with a long vegetable
cutter a quarter of an inch in diameter, then form a number of pegs of
the same paste to fit into the holes when baked, and all of equal
lengths, roll out a number of cords of the same paste as long as
possible and the thickness of blanched macaroni, which plait round the
pegs, going in and out one upon the other until you have reached the top
and formed a rustic basket, let it stand some time to get dry, then bake
it in a moderate oven; when done and cold glaze it over with some red
currant jelly, dress a pineapple ice (No. 1384) in the centre in
pyramid, which cover all over with mushrooms of meringues (No. 1222),
building them in clusters as high as possible; garnish round with a
gelée au rhum (No. 1231) chopped and in croutons, and serve.
No. 1314. _Turban de Condé glacé à l’Ananas._
Make a pound of puff paste into condé as directed (No. 1183), make a
thin border of any kind of marmalade upon a silver dish, on which dress
the condé in turban, that is, standing upon end, one resting upon the
other, dress a pineapple cream ice (No. 1384) in the centre in pyramid,
garnish round with orange jelly in the skins of the oranges (No. 1237);
cut in quarters and serve.
No. 1315. _Bombe demi glacé à la Mogador._
Make a good vanilla ice as directed (No. 1381), well flavoured with
maresquino, have a large round pewter ice-mould which opens in two
halves, partly fill each half, leaving a hollow in the centre of each,
which fill with all kinds of small fruits, grapes, strawberries,
currants, Smyrna raisins, &c., soaked in maresquino, close the mould,
(having it sufficiently filled to form a ball when turned out,) and bury
it in ice and salt, then make a thin ornamented border of pâte d’office
(No. 1137) an inch in height, which fix upon a silver dish and bake in a
moderate oven, place it somewhere for the dish to get cold; when ready
to serve, dip the mould into lukewarm water, and turn the ice quickly
out in the centre of your dish, you have previously prepared some
finely-spun sugar (sucre filé, No. 1380), with which form a fusee, stick
it in the top of the ice, twisting it round, bringing the other end near
the edge of the dish, pour half a pint of brandy in your dish outside of
the border of paste, which set on fire at the moment of going to table;
the fire will require to burn the sugar, which will give it quite the
appearance of a fusee; it would, however, be better that the brandy
should not be set on fire until it reached the dining-room.
No. 1316. _Cérito’s Sultane Sylphe à la Fille de l’Orage._
Procure a half oval-pointed mould about fifteen inches in height, ten
inches by eight in diameter at the bottom, and the size of a
five-shilling piece at the top, which bury to the rim in ice with which
you have mixed plenty of salt, hue the interior with a sheet of white
paper, laying it in closely to fit the mould, have ready a pint of cream
mixed rather stiffly, with which you have mixed a meringue mixture of
three eggs, as for the biscuit glacé (No. 1318), spread it all over the
interior of the mould to about an inch in thickness, place a cover over
the mould made to fit tight, over which place some ice, and leave it one
hour, when it will be quite frozen, take off the lid, have ready a nice
cherry or strawberry cream ice (No. 1388), place a little at the bottom
of the mould, upon which lay a few fresh strawberries, then more ice,
proceeding thus until quite full, place the cover again over, fixing it
tight, bury it in ice and salt, and leave it an hour, or till wanted,
when dip it into very lukewarm water, turn it out upon your dish, take
off the paper, have ready a silver atelette (see atelette of fruits in
the Plate), upon which you have placed some fine fresh fruit, that is, a
peach with a bunch of fine black grapes resting over, and a few red
currants or strawberries beneath, which stick into the top, have ready
some finely-spun sugar (sucre filé, No. 1380), which twine round lightly
like rolls of gauze (see design), not, however, covering the whole of
it, and at the moment of serving lay a fine bunch of black grapes upon
each side on vine-leaves; have some very light gelée de Dantzic (No.
1226) chopped finely, with which garnish round, sprinkling some over the
grapes, but not too heavy, and serve as quickly as possible. As soon as
it is turned out of the mould you had better set the dish upon the ice
and salt you took it from (pouring off all the water) whilst
ornamenting, and it would be better to make a border of pâte d’office
upon your dish as in the last, but smaller, to prevent it sliding about
when carried to table, which would upset the garniture.
No. 1317. _Gateau glacé à l’Eloise._
Bury a mould in ice as in the last, then whip a quart of double cream
very stiff, to which add a very little powdered sugar and two glasses of
noyeau, put it in a freezing-pot, and when about three parts frozen line
the mould as in the last, make a custard with eight yolks of eggs as for
vanilla ice (No. 1381), to which add a little clarified isinglass (No.
1372), stir it upon the ice, and when becoming thickish add two glasses
of noyeau, half a pint of whipped cream, and half a pound of cherries,
stoned, and passed in sugar as directed (No. 1144), only dry well before
adding them to the custard, which must be kept as white as possible,
place it in the centre of your mould, which cover up and bury in ice
until wanted; when ready, dip the mould in lukewarm water, turn it out
upon your dish, stick a few fine cherries here and there over it,
prepare another custard of four yolks of eggs, which pour all over and
serve. The garnishing of these dishes must be effected very quickly, as
they require to be served the moment they are turned out.
No. 1318. _Biscuit Mousseux glacé, en caisse._
Make a custard of six yolks of eggs as directed for crème au maresquin
(No. 1251), but omitting three parts of the sugar; put into your
freezing-pot, and when half frozen have ready the following preparation:
boil a quarter of a pound of sugar au cassé (No. 1379), have ready five
whites of eggs whipped very stiff, with which mix the sugar by degrees;
when quite cold mix with the custard, adding half a pint of whipped
cream and three glasses of any white liqueur, freeze the whole together,
keeping the pot twisted until you have obtained a good consistency; have
ready a number of small round paper cases,[17] place a band of paper
round each, half an inch above the top, and fill with the above
preparation; place them in a flat tin box, sprinkle ratafia crumbs upon
the top of each, place the lid upon the box, which must close very
tight, and bury it in ice and salt for six hours; when ready to serve,
take them out of the box, detach the bands of paper from them, dress
upon a napkin, and serve. They will have every appearance of having just
left the oven.
No. 1319. _Souffle glacé au Curaçoa._
Proceed exactly as in the last, only using curaçoa instead of a white
liqueur; place it in a middling-sized silver soufflé-dish, surround it
with a band of paper, sprinkle crushed ratafias over the top, place it
in the box, which cover and bury in ice, and salt eight hours; when
ready to serve take off the band of paper, and dress it upon a napkin on
a silver dish.
No. 1320. _Pouding Soufflé glacé à la Méphistopheles._
Proceed precisely as in the last, place in a dish of the same
description, and whilst buried in ice make a cover from a meringue
mixture (No. 1218) of four yolks of eggs, very firm, a large spoonful of
which place upon a sheet of paper, forming it round, three inches in
diameter, and the remainder in a paper cornet or horn, cut off the point
of one, leaving a point the size of a sixpenny-piece, with which work a
spiral line round the meringue until you have formed a cover large
enough for the soufflé-case, sift sugar over it, and bake in a very slow
oven; when done turn it gently over in your hand, take off the paper,
empty the interior lightly, and place it to dry in a very slow oven (it
might be made the day before); make a border of pâte d’office upon a
silver dish as for the bombe glacé (No. 1315), bake in a warm oven; when
ready to serve take the soufflé from the ice, take off the paper, stand
it in a dish of ice and salt to reach the rim of the soufflé-case; place
on the cover, which must be quite cold and crisp, and place it in the
oven until the meringue cover is warm, when take it out, stand it in the
centre of your dish, pour half a pint of brandy upon the dish outside of
the border of paste, which set on fire upon its going into the
dining-room.
No. 1321. _Brioche._
Put four pounds of flour upon a marble slab, one pound of which place
upon one side, with an ounce of German yeast dissolved in a gill of warm
water in the centre, mix the yeast well with your fingers, add a little
more water, and mix the flour into a stiffish but delicate paste, which
roll up in the shape of a ball, cut an incision across it with a knife,
place it in a basin well floured and put it into a warmish place for ten
minutes or longer, until becoming very light, make a large hole in the
centre of the remainder of the flour, in which put half an ounce of
salt, half a gill of water, two pounds and a half of fresh butter, and
sixteen eggs, mix the eggs and butter well together, and work in the
flour by degrees, if too stiff add more eggs, the paste must be kept
rather softish, press it out with, your hands by degrees, lay the leaven
upon it, which spread over, bring the ends over with your knife, press
it out again and fold over until well mixed, sprinkle some flour upon a
clean cloth, fold the paste in it and let remain all night; when ready
to use throw some flour upon your pastry slab, turn your paste out upon
it and work it up together with your hands, then cut a piece, which
mould into a ball with the hands, place it upon a piece of buttered
paper on a baking-sheet, make an impression with your hand in the
centre, mould another ball of the paste two thirds the size of the
former, wet the former ball with a little water, fix the other upon it,
press gently, egg over with a paste-brush, make a few incisions round
with a knife, and put it in a moderate oven, (it will require about two
hours baking, to try when done run a thin wooden skewer into it, if done
it will come out perfectly dry,) bake of a nice gold colour. Many small
cakes, rissoles, &c., are made from this paste. By buttering a
middle-sized stewpan, putting a band of paper four inches in height
round, and baking the paste in it, it will of itself make a remove, but
of course requiring longer baking.
No. 1322. _Baba._
This cake is made of the same description of paste as the last, but
using six more eggs, as it requires to be softer, and working lightly
with your hand about ten minutes before adding the leaven, to which add
a teaspoonful of powdered saffron; you have also picked and cleaned a
quarter of a pound of Smyrna raisins, half a pound of Malaga, a quarter
of a pound of currants, and a little candied orange, lemon-peel, and
citron, cut into thin slices, soak the whole in half a pint of Madeira
wine and three glasses of brandy or rum, and mix with the paste, working
together lightly with the hands, have buttered a large sponge-cake
mould, or stewpan, place a band of paper three inches in height round
the rim, put it into a warm place for two or three hours, or until
raised nearly to the top of the mould, stand it upon a trivet in a
warmish oven, and bake about three hours, ascertaining when done with a
skewer, as in the last; your paste must not be made too thin, or all the
fruit would fall to the bottom and spoil its appearance. Take off the
band of paper, turn the baba over upon a hair sieve, and serve either
hot or cold. Previously to mixing the fruit with the paste you may line
the interior of the mould very thinly with some of it, mix the fruit
with the remainder and fill, this process will prevent the cake sticking
to the mould, as the fruit will sometimes cause it to do, but gives
rather too much the appearance of brioche when on the table.
No. 1323. _Brioche au Fromage._
Make the paste as directed (No. 1321), but rather softer, and when ready
for use mix in a pound of Gruyère cheese cut into small dice, with half
a pound of grated Parmesan and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, mould
it as for the brioche, put it into a buttered stewpan as there directed,
egg lightly, place in a moderate oven, and bake it about two hours of a
fine gold colour, (but try whether done or not as before,) and serve
very hot. The same paste with cheese may likewise be served in small
cakes, making fifteen or sixteen from the same quantity of paste, or
cutting up a large one with different shape-cutters into the same number
of pieces, and placing them in a hot oven upon a baking-sheet (when the
first course comes off the table) until very hot and becoming rather
brown, dress them upon a napkin on your dish, and send very hot to
table, with another napkin over them, which should not be removed until
placed upon the table.
No. 1324. _Brioche frite au Vin de Madère._
Make a brioche as directed (No. 1321), which when cold cut into pieces
a quarter of an inch in thickness, and of the shape and size of small
fillets of fowl, have ready four yolks of eggs in a dish, with which you
have mixed a gill of good cream, have also clarified half a pound of
fresh butter, a quarter of which put into a deep sauté-pan over the
fire; when hot dip eight pieces of the brioche into the eggs and cream
quickly, and fry them in the sauté-pan of a light yellow colour,
proceeding thus until they are all done, dress them in crown upon your
dish on a border of apricot marmalade, and place it in the oven to keep
hot, put half a pound of the marmalade in a stewpan, and when melted add
a pint of Madeira wine; when boiling pour over the brioche and serve
very hot. The remainder of a brioche or baba from a preceding dinner may
be used for the above purpose. In serving a brioche or baba to table as
a remove I strongly recommend the above method, as very few, even after
a sumptuous dinner, could resist the temptations of this delicious dish,
so well blended with the apricot and Madeira, whilst brioche or baba
served entire cannot invigorate the appetite, and is not, in my opinion,
exactly the kind of food to suit an already nearly satisfied stomach.
They are, however, excellent for breakfasts, luncheons, and ball
suppers, where every person composes their meal according to their
fancy.
No. 1325. _Nougat aux Fraises._
Blanch three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds in boiling water, and
a quarter of a pound of pistachios, separate, take off the skins and cut
each almond into five or six fillets, and the pistachios in two, place
them upon a sheet of paper and dry in a warm oven until the almonds
become a light straw colour, but taking the pistachios out earlier, then
put a pound of sifted sugar into a copper pan and stir it over the fire
with a wooden spoon until melted, then throw in your almonds, (which
must be hot,) and stir until well mixed, taking it off the fire, you
have previously slightly oiled a large Savoy-cake mould, put in part of
the mixture, which press to the sides with a lemon, then the remainder
in small pieces, pressing the whole to the sides, forming it into one
piece the thickness of a five-shilling piece, and when cold turn it out
from the shape upon a dish, whip a quart of cream very stiff, which
dress upon the dish you intend serving the nougat on, in pyramid, place
some very fine strawberries upon it and the nougat over, have a little
sugar boiled to the seventh degree (No. 1379), have also a few very fine
strawberries, with the stalks on, as the green is an improvement, dip
the stalks of the strawberries into the sugar, place one upon the top
and the others all over, at the distance of two inches apart, fixing
them in a drooping position, it is then ready to serve. The above makes
a handsome remove, the pistachios, almonds, and strawberries correcting
the taste of the melted sugar; if not convenient, the pistachios may be
omitted, but adding more almonds in proportion. The sugar may be
flavoured with lemon vanilla or candied orange-flowers.
No. 1326. _Croque en bouche._
Make some paste as directed for pâte à choux (No. 1194), not, however,
using so much butter, and adding a little more flour, drying it well in
the stewpan, and adding sufficient eggs to make it of the same
consistency as there directed, flavouring with sugar upon which you have
rubbed the rind of a lemon, form about a hundred and fifty small balls
the size of marbles, upon two baking-sheets, egg them over and bake very
dry in a moderate oven of a light gold colour, then have some sugar
boiled to the seventh degree (No. 1379), oil a large Savoy-cake mould
lightly, place one of the petits choux upon a trussing-needle, dip it in
the sugar, fix it at the bottom in the centre of your mould, then dip
in the remainder one after the other, placing them round the interior of
the mould, one adhering to the other until the mould is filled up, (to
facilitate the building of them have your sugar in two different
sugar-pans, being careful that it does not grain, for if the sugar is
not quite clear and crisp it would stick to the mould, and your croque
en bouche tumble to pieces,) when quite cold try gently with both hands
to move it, just enough to detach it, turn it out carefully upon a
napkin, and serve with whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar under
it. The above when well made makes a pretty remove, but scarcely fit to
eat, it being a mass of sugar without any relief to the palate. Although
not a great admirer of nougat, the almonds certainly form a relief; a
croque en bouche of oranges or any other fruit is a little more
commendable, but is very difficult to succeed with, and do not in
reality repay in quality the trouble they give; such dishes, in my
opinion, being fit only for children who are fond of sugar-plums.
No. 1327. _Meringue Pagodatique à la Chinoise._
Have ready prepared a meringue mixture of fifteen eggs (No. 1218), with
which make six rings upon paper, (laying them out with a paper cornet or
funnel, in the bottom of which you have cut a hole of the circumference
of a shilling,) the three largest to be eight inches in diameter, the
next one six and a half inches, the next five, and the smallest three
and a half inches in diameter, and the whole of them an inch in
thickness, have some of the preparation in a small paper cornet with a
hole at the bottom of the size of a pea, with which ornament the rings,
laying small fillets of it over them, then with the large paper cornet
lay out four other pieces of an octagonal form, (to imitate the top of
a Chinese pagoda, which may easily be accomplished if the mixture is
firm, as it may then be laid out into any shape desired,) leaving a ring
in the centre, making the largest rather larger than the largest ring,
diminishing the size in proportion to the other rings, and piping them
according to fancy with the smaller paper cornet with which also form
sixteen little bells by pressing an upright dot from it upon paper, and
pulling the cornet up quickly, making the four largest half an inch in
height and a quarter of an inch in width, and making each four a size
smaller in proportion; bake the whole of the preparations (first sifting
sugar over them) upon boards in a very slow oven, scarcely allowing them
to obtain any colour; when baked and crisp place them in a hot closet
until perfectly dry, when take them out, wet the back of the papers
lightly with a paste-brush and carefully detach the meringues from them,
which again put into the hot closet until quite crisp, then fix the
bells, the largest upon the largest octagonal piece at the corners, and
the smaller upon the smaller pieces, by running a needle with a piece of
white silk through them, and fastening them with a little boiled sugar
or isinglass when upon the point of setting; when ready to serve place
the three largest rings upon your dish, filling the middle with some
whipped cream flavoured with vanilla sugar (No. 1377), then the largest
octagonal piece, which also fill with cream, then the next sized ring,
and so on until you have built the whole up, finishing with the smallest
octagonal at the top, you have also made and baked a pointed meringue of
the shape of half a lemon, to fit into the hole at the top, having it
decorated to correspond, which place upon the top and serve immediately,
or it would become damp, and eat toughish instead of crisp.
No. 1328. _Meringue à la Parisienne._
Prepare a meringue mixture of ten whites of eggs, with which make ten
large rings, each about eight inches in diameter, and half an inch in
thickness, laying them out upon paper; pipe them in stripes with the
paper cornet, and sift sugar over, let them remain ten minutes, then
shake off the superfluous sugar, lay them upon boards, and place them in
a slow oven to bake; when of a light brown colour and quite set, put
them into a hot closet to dry, then wet the back of the papers lightly
with a paste-brush, from which carefully detach the rings, place them
again in the hot closet to dry, and when ready to serve pipe them with
bright red currant jelly between the stripes of meringue, dish them one
upon the other, filling them with whipped cream, and serve as quickly as
possible afterwards, with a few strawberries upon the top. A meringue
mixture may also be formed into various other shapes, according to
fancy.
No. 1329. _Nesselrode Pudding._
Blanch four dozen chestnuts in boiling water, skin and place them in the
screen, when dry take them out, and when cold put them into a mortar
with one pound of sugar, and half a stick of vanilla, pound the whole
well together, and sift it through a fine wire sieve, put it into a
stewpan with the yolks of twelve eggs, beat them well together; in
another stewpan have a quart of milk, when boiling pour it over the
other ingredients, mixing well, and stir over a sharp fire until it
begins to thicken and adheres to the back of the spoon, when lay a
tammie upon a large dish, pour the mixture in and rub it through with
two wooden spoons; when cold place it in a freezing-pot and freeze as
directed (No. 1381), when frozen have a large high ice-mould, which
closes hermetically, have also two ounces of currants, and two ounces
of Smyrna raisins, soaked in four glasses of maresquino from the
previous day, with four ounces of candied citron cut in dice, put them
into the freezing-pot with a pint of whipped cream and half the meringue
preparation directed in (No. 1318); freeze the whole well together and
fill your mould, which bury in ice and salt until ready to serve, when
dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish.
No. 1330. _Pouding de Cabinet glacé._
Have ready prepared, and rather stale, a sponge-cake as directed (No.
1369), which cut into slices half an inch in thickness, and rather
smaller than the mould you intend making the pudding in, soak them well
with noyeau brandy, then lay some preserved dry cherries at the bottom
of the mould, with a few whole ratafias, lay one of the slices over,
then more cherries and ratafias, proceeding thus until the mould is
three parts full; then have ready a quart of the custard, as prepared
for crème au maresquin (No. 1251), omitting half the quantity of
isinglass, pour it lukewarm into your mould, which close hermetically
and bury in ice and salt, where let it remain at least two hours; when
ready to serve dip it in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish;
you have made about half a pint of custard, which keep upon ice, pour
over the pudding when ready to serve, and sprinkle a few chopped
pistachios over.
No. 1331. _Glace Meringue au four._
Make a pineapple cream ice as directed (No. 1384), and when well frozen
have ready a plain oval ice-mould, place the cream in it, filling it
quite tight, close and bury it in ice and salt until five minutes before
ready to serve, then dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon
your dish, which bury up to the rim in ice and salt upon a
baking-sheet, have ready a preparation of meringue as directed for
petits biscuits glacés, (No. 1318), with which cover it over, place it
in a warm oven a minute, just setting the meringue, which will blister
and brown slightly, and serve immediately.
No. 1332. _Plombière._
Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, with six or eight
bitter ones, when dry and cold place them in a mortar with three
quarters of a pound of sugar, and ten or twelve leaves of candied
orange-flowers, pound well, sift through a wire sieve, and place it in a
stewpan with the yolks of nine eggs, beat them well together, then in
another stewpan have boiling a pint and a half of milk, which pour over
the other ingredients by degrees, keeping it stirred, place it upon the
fire, stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon,
rub it through a tammie, add two glasses of noyeau; when cold put it
into your freezing-pot to freeze (see No. 1381), and when half frozen
add a pint and a half of whipped cream, when quite frozen fill a mould,
and serve as for the Nesselrode pudding.
No. 1333. _Plombières Mousseuses à l’Orange._
Prepare about three parts of the quantity of plombière ice as directed
in the last, to which, when half frozen, add a pint and a half of
whipped orange jelly (No. 1236) just upon the point of setting, beat the
whole well together with the spatula, working it until well frozen; have
a dozen and a half of oranges, peeled, quartered, and passed in sugar as
directed for vol-au-vent (No. 1147), and place them in a basin upon ice;
when ready to serve make a border of patisserie d’amande (No. 1183) upon
your dish, in the centre of which put a little of the plombière, then a
layer of oranges, then plombière and oranges again, proceeding thus and
finishing in pyramid; garnish round with a little of the orange jelly
(clear), chopped and in croutons, and serve.
No. 1334. _Gateaux de Fruit à la Gelée d’Orange mousseuse._
Make a chartreuse of fruit as directed (No. 1269) in a large oval mould,
having a quantity of fruit left; have also about a quart of orange jelly
(No. 1236), which place upon ice in a bowl, whisking it until upon the
point of setting, when place a layer of it in the chartreuse, then a
layer of the fruit, the jelly, and so on until quite filled, place it
upon ice, and when set and ready to serve dip in lukewarm water, and
turn it out upon your dish; serve garnished round with orange jelly in
the skins of the oranges (No. 1237), cut in quarters after it has set.
No. 1335. _Gateau Soufflé à l’Essence de Ponche._
Break ten eggs, put the whites in a copper bowl, and the yolks in a
basin, with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, four of crushed
ratafias, two of potato flour, a little salt, and a quarter of an ounce
of candied orange-flowers, beat well together, whip the whites, which
stir in lightly with the mixture; well butter and bread-crumb the
interior of an oval plain mould, butter also and bread-crumb a band of
paper three inches broad, which tie round at the top of the mould, pour
in the mixture, and half an hour before ready to serve stand it in a
moderate oven (it will take about the above time to bake), when done
turn it out upon your dish; have ready a custard of three yolks of eggs,
made as for crème au maresquin (No. 1251), to which you have added two
glasses of essence of punch, pour round the gateau and serve.
The above mixture may be baked in twelve small moulds and dressed in
pyramid, but then they would require more sauce.
OF LARGE SOUFFLES FOR REMOVES.
Soufflés when well-made are excellent removes for the winter season, but
I generally strive to avoid them in the summer, as they are not, in my
opinion, at all suitable for that season of the year, for which reason I
have introduced the new soufflé glacé, which, by pleasing the eye, and
being more refreshing to the palate, cannot fail to give general
satisfaction.
No. 1336. _Soufflé à la Vanille._
Prepare a crust or croustade of pâte fine (No. 1136), or water paste, by
lining a raised pie-mould with it, filling with bread-crumbs, and
finishing the edges as for a raised pie; bake it (of a very light brown
colour) about an hour in a moderate oven, when done empty out all the
bread-crumbs without taking it out of the mould, then tie a band of
buttered paper (four inches wide) round the top, and put it by until
wanted. Put half a pound of butter in a stewpan, with which mix three
quarters of a pound of flour without melting it, in another stewpan have
rather more than a quart of milk, into which, when boiling, put two
sticks of vanilla, place a cover upon the stewpan and let it remain
until half cold, then take out the vanilla, and pour the milk upon the
butter and flour, stir over a sharp fire, boiling it five minutes, then
stir in quickly the yolks of ten eggs, and sweeten with half a pound of
sugar; when cold, and an hour and a quarter before you are ready to
serve, whip the whites of the ten eggs very stiff, stir them in with the
mixture lightly, pour it into the croustade, and bake about an hour in a
moderate oven, if going too fast, and liable to be done before required,
open the oven door, as it ought to be served the moment it is done;
when ready to serve take it from the oven, detach the band of paper,
take it from the mould, dress it upon a napkin on a dish, and serve
immediately.
These soufflés may be baked in a silver soufflé-case, if preferred, they
will take considerable less time in baking, but fall quicker after being
taken from the oven; any liqueur or spirits even may be introduced in
soufflés of this description if approved of.
No. 1337. _Soufflé à la Fleur d’Orange._
Proceed exactly as in the last, but infusing an ounce of candied
orange-flowers in the milk instead of the vanilla.
No. 1338. _Soufflé au Café vierge._
Proceed as for the soufflé à la vanille, omitting the vanilla, and
procuring two ounces of green coffee, which place in a stewpan over a
sharp fire, keeping them moved until of a very light brown colour, then
throw them into the milk when boiling, cover over until half cold, and
finish as before directed, passing the milk through a sieve.
No. 1339. _Soufflé à la Crème de Riz_
Is made by using ground rice instead of the common flour, finishing the
same, and using any of the flavours directed in the three last.
No. 1340. _Soufflé au Citron._
Proceed as directed for soufflé à la vanille, but infusing the rind of
two lemons, free from pith, in the milk instead of the vanilla.
No. 1341. _Soufflé au Macaroni._
Have half a pound of macaroni blanched as directed (No. 130), lay it
upon a cloth to drain, and cut it into small pieces, the eighth of an
inch in thickness; make half the preparation as directed for soufflé à
la vanille, but using an infusion of an ounce of bitter almonds; when it
becomes thick over the fire stir in the macaroni, and when again nearly
boiling, the yolks of ten eggs, when cold whip the whites, which add to
the other ingredients, and finish as where previously directed.
No. 1342. _Soufflé au Tapioca._
Put a half a pound of tapioca in a stewpan, with three pints of milk and
a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and when boiling add the rind of
two lemons, free from pith, tied in a bunch, boil until the tapioca is
rather stiff and well done, then take out the lemon and stir in the
yolks of twelve eggs very quickly, stir another minute over the fire to
thicken a little, and put by until cold; when ready, whip the whites of
the eggs very stiff, stir them lightly with the tapioca, bake and serve
as for the other description of soufflés.
No. 1343. _Soufflé au Rhum._
Break the yolks of twelve eggs in a basin, to which add half a pound of
sifted sugar, beat well with a wooden spoon until becoming quite thick
and whitish; when stir in two glasses of rum and an ounce of potato
flour; whisk the whites of the eggs very stiff, mix them gently with the
mixture, put it upon the dish you intend serving it on, shaping in
pyramid with a knife; and a quarter of an hour before serving place it
in a moderate oven, when done pour a little rum round, which set on fire
and serve immediately. Soufflés au maresquin, noyeau, curaçoa, or
whiskey, are made precisely as the above, omitting the rum, adding two
glasses of one or the other liqueurs instead, and serving without the
fire round it.
No. 1344. _Omelette Soufflée._
Proceed as described in the last, but omitting the rum or liqueurs, and
flavouring with three tablespoonfuls of orange-flower-water, or rubbing
the rind of a lemon upon the sugar previous to pounding and mixing (or
vanilla sugar, No. 1377, might be used); place the soufflé upon the
dish, bake a quarter of an hour, and serve. These kinds of soufflés are
much more simple in their fabrication than the others, and much quicker
done; their greatest difficulty is the whipping of the eggs, which must
be very stiff; a little practice would, however, soon enable you to
manage them; the best method is to put them into a copper bowl with a
pinch of salt, and commence whipping very slowly, then quicker and
quicker by degrees, until they adhere like feathers to the whisk. These
soufflés may likewise be baked in a silver soufflé-dish, by tying a band
of buttered paper round to bake it, which detach at the time of serving.
No. 1345. _Omelette Soufflée à l’Antiquaire._
Though the last-mentioned article has received the name of omelette
soufflée, it has no particular right to the name; for as there is no
making an omelette without eggs, so is there no making an omelette
soufflée without an omelette-pan; I do not, therefore, intend entirely
to forsake the old-fashioned method. The mixture is prepared precisely
as the last, but the appearance and flavour are very different, being
produced by the different method of cooking them; put an ounce of butter
into a very clean omelette-pan over the fire, when melted, pour in half
the preparation, place it over a very brisk fire a few seconds, then
twist it round in the pan, which give a jerk, tossing the omelette half
way over, stand it over the fire again, give the pan another jerk,
tossing the omelette again over, and turn it out upon your dish, set it
in the oven and proceed the same with the remainder of the preparation,
which when done turn over upon the other, leave it in the oven about a
quarter of an hour, sprinkle sugar over, salamander and serve very
quickly. The butter the soufflé is fried in gives it a superior flavour
to the last.
No. 1346. _Omelette Soufflée à la Crème._
Proceed as in the last, deducting two of the whites of eggs, and adding
a gill of whipped cream, fry and serve as above.
No. 1347. _Soufflé au Gingembre._
This is a very excellent remove for a party of gentlemen, make a
preparation as for soufflé à la vanille (No. 1336), adding a little
syrup, mixing a quarter of a pound of fresh preserved ginger with it,
cut into thin slices, add two more whites of eggs to the preparation,
which bake in a croustade as directed where above referred to.
No. 1348. _Soufflé au Cerises._
Prepare a soufflé mixture as before, giving it the flavour of
orange-flowers; when the whites of eggs are well mixed, add a pound of
cherries prepared thus: procure them not too ripe, take out the stones,
and put them into a sugar-pan with half a pound of sugar, stew them
until surrounded with a thickish syrup, then turn them out upon a sieve
to dry, stir them into the soufflé lightly, pour in your croustade, and
bake it a short time longer, as the cherries will prevent the soufflé
rising so quickly.
No. 1349. _Soufflé au jus d’Orange et au Zeste praliné._
Prepare a soufflé mixture as before, but when you pour in the milk add
likewise the juice and pulp of eight oranges, having previously rubbed
the rind of one of them upon two ounces of sugar, pound it fine, place
it in the hot closet to dry, and add it as extra sugar to the soufflé,
bake and serve as before; a gill of milk less must be used in the above
on account of the orange-juice, it would otherwise be too moist.
No. 1350. _Biscuits Soufflés à la Crème._
Put the yolks of ten eggs in a basin, and the whites in a copper bowl,
add half a pound of sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a
lemon previous to pounding, beat it well with the yolks of the eggs,
then add half a pint of cream well whipped and ten ounces of flour; stir
all together lightly, whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, and stir
them into the preparation; have ready a dozen and a half of small paper
cases, fill each one three parts full, and fifteen minutes before
serving place them in a moderate oven; when done shake sugar over, dress
in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve.
No. 1351. _Fondue au Parmesan et Gruyère._
Put half a pound of butter and three quarters of a pound of flour in a
stewpan, mix them well together (without melting the butter) with a
wooden spoon, then add rather more than a quart of boiling milk, stir
over the fire, boil twenty minutes, then add the yolks of ten eggs (stir
in well), a pound of grated Parmesan, and half a pound of grated Gruyère
cheese; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of pepper,
and half a saltspoonful of cayenne; if too thick add two or three whole
eggs to give it the consistency of a soufflé, whip the ten whites of egg
firm, stir them gently into the mixture, have ready a croustade prepared
as for the soufflé (No. 1336), pour in the above mixture, and bake it
in a moderate oven; it will require half an hour longer than the
soufflé; dish and serve the same.
No. 1352. _Fondue à la Napolitaine._
Prepare three fourths of the mixture as in the last, but previous to
adding the whites of eggs stir in a quarter of a pound of good macaroni
blanched as directed (No. 130) and cut into pieces an inch in length;
add the whites, bake, and serve as before.
No. 1353. _Petites Fondues au Pâte d’Italie._
Blanch a quarter of a pound of any description of Italian paste in
boiling water a few minutes, strain it upon a silk sieve until a little
dry, put an ounce of butter and a spoonful of flour, mix well together,
then add half a pint of boiling milk; stir over the fire until thickish,
add your paste, stir it a few minutes longer over the fire, then add a
quarter of a pound of Stilton cheese in small lumps, and a quarter of a
pound of grated Parmesan; season with a little pepper, salt, and
cayenne, add six yolks of eggs, stir it another minute until the eggs
are partially set, and when cold whip the whites very stiff; mix them
well in, fill small paper cases with it, bake a quarter of an hour in a
moderate oven, and serve very hot.
No. 1354. _Fondue (simple method)._
Put two ounces of Gruyère and two ounces of Parmesan cheese (grated)
into a basin, with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, add the yolks of
six eggs, with half a pound of butter melted (mix well), whip the whites
of the six eggs, stir gently into the other ingredients, fill small
paper cases with it, bake about a quarter of an hour in a moderate oven,
dress upon a napkin, and serve very hot.
No. 1355. _Petites Fondues (en caisse) au Stilton._
Put six ounces of butter and half a pound of flour in a stewpan, rub
well together with a wooden spoon, then add a quart of warm milk, stir
over the fire a quarter of an hour, then add the yolks of eight eggs,
three quarters of a pound of grated Parmesan, and half a pound of
Stilton cheese in small dice, season rather highly with pepper, salt,
and cayenne, add the white of the eggs whipped very stiff, which stir in
lightly; have a dozen and a half of small paper cases, fill each one
three parts full, place them in a moderate oven, bake about twenty
minutes; when done dress them upon a napkin on your dish, and serve very
hot.
No. 1356. _Ramequins._
Put a gill of water in a stewpan, to which add two ounces of Gruyère and
the same quantity of Parmesan cheese (grated), two ounces of butter, a
little cayenne pepper, and salt if required, set it upon the fire, and
when boiling stir in two or three spoonfuls of flour; keep stirring over
the fire until the paste becomes dryish and the bottom of the stewpan
quite white, then add three or four eggs by degrees, until forming a
paste like pâte à choux (No. 1194), butter a baking-sheet well, and lay
the paste out in pieces upon it with a tablespoon, making them long, and
half the size of the bowl of the spoon; egg over, and lay a small piece
of Gruyère cheese upon each, put them into the oven about twenty minutes
before they are required; bake them a little crisp, and serve very hot,
dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.
No. 1357. _Petits Ramequins au feuilletage._
Make half a pound of paste (No. 1132), which roll very thin, have ready
some grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese mixed, throw half a handful
over the paste, which fold in three, roll it out to the same thickness
again, cover again with cheese, proceeding thus until you have used the
whole of the cheese (half a pound), then cut them into any shapes you
like with pastry cutters, set on a wet baking-sheet, egg them over, bake
a nice colour in a moderate oven, dress in pyramid upon a napkin on a
dish, and serve very hot.
No. 1358. _Diablotins au Gruyère._
Put a gill of milk in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, when boiling
stir in two spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire until the
bottom of the stewpan is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, half a
pound of Gruyère, and half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese; mix well
in, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne rather highly, mould the paste
into little balls with the forefinger against the side of the stewpan
containing it, drop them into very hot lard; fry of a nice light brown,
dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve very hot.
No. 1359. _Croquettes de Macaroni au Fromage._
Put two quarts of water, with a little salt and a small piece of butter
into a stewpan, and when boiling add half a pound of macaroni, which
boil until tender, drain it upon a sieve, and when cold cut it into
pieces a quarter of an inch in length, put them into a stewpan with half
a pint of béchamel sauce, a little cayenne pepper, salt, and grated
nutmeg; let simmer a few minutes until rather thick, stirring it gently
occasionally, then add half a pound of grated Parmesan and Gruyère
cheese (or good common cheese may be used), turn gently a few minutes
longer over the fire, take it off, stir in the yolks of four eggs
quickly, stir another minute over the fire to set the eggs, and pour out
upon a dish until quite cold, then form it into olive-shaped pieces,
rather larger than walnuts, or into pieces of the shape of pears, or
into croquettes two inches long, the thickness of your finger; have
three eggs well beaten upon a plate, into which dip them, roll them
over, then throw them into a dish of bread-crumbs, pat them gently with
your knife, dip again into eggs and bread-crumbs, place them in a wire
basket, and fry in very hot lard; dress them in pyramid upon a napkin,
and serve very hot. If the preparation is well prepared, once
bread-crumbing would be sufficient.
_Macaroni à l’Italienne._
Boil half a pound of macaroni as above, when done lay it on a sieve
to dry for one minute, put it in a pan with four spoonfuls of white
sauce, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a
little cayenne; toss the macaroni over the fire; when boiling, add
two ounces each of grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese, toss round
and round until well mixed, then serve with a gill of very strong
gravy around it.
_Macaroni au Gratin._
Proceed the same as above, but after you have put the macaroni on
the dish, omit the gravy, and cover it slightly with bread-crumbs,
and about the same quantity of Parmesan cheese, grated, a little
butter over, and then put in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour,
if not hot enough, pass the salamander over it to give it a nice
brownish colour, and serve very hot.
_Macaroni à la Napolitaine._
Boil half a pound of the best quality of macaroni for half an hour
(as at No. 1369), when tender, lay one quarter of it on the dish
you intend to serve, have ready two ounces of grated Parmesan,
which you divide into four parts, to lay over each layer of
macaroni, then put over it two tablespoonfuls of strong gravy, made
of half glaze and consommé; put the dish in the oven for ten
minutes, and serve very hot.
_The real Italian method (called à l’Estoufade)._
Boil and proceed as before, but make the gravy as follows, and use
it instead of the preceding:--Take two pounds of rump of beef,
larded through, put in a small stewpan with one quarter of a pound
of butter, fry gently for one hour, turning almost continually,
when forming a glaze add a pint of broth, let simmer another hour
very gently indeed, take the fat off, and use that gravy instead of
that above described; a little tomato sauce may be introduced if
handy; serve the beef at the same time in a separate dish.
APPENDIX.
No. 1360. _Aspic_,
Or Savoury Jelly, extracted from the succulence of meat, when well made,
is very inviting at any season of the year, especially in the summer,
besides being the principal ornament and garniture of those savoury
dishes which relieve the monotony of the second course. The tediousness
and expense of its preparation in the old-fashioned manner has often
been the cause of its being omitted, which has also prevented gourmets
from partaking of the second course, but where well served, its
delightful flavour will restore, cleanse, and invigorate the palate,
causing each guest to partake more freely of the savoury dishes, which
will afford a zest to the delicate Lafitte or Château Margot, which
flows so generously in the glasses of true epicures. By following
closely my new receipt, I venture to say that any cook, with a little
experience, will produce an aspic fit for the table of a crowned head.
Take two large knuckles of veal, which cut in large dice, having about
six pounds of meat, well butter the bottom of a middling-sized stewpan,
put in the meat, with one pound of lean ham and two calf’s feet, cut up,
breaking the bones, add half a gill of water, and place the stewpan over
a sharp fire, stirring the meat round occasionally until the bottom of
the stewpan is covered with a whitish glaze, then fill it up with five
quarts of water, add three onions, one small carrot, one turnip, half a
head of celery, six peppercorns, one clove, half a blade of mace, a
teaspoonful of salt, and a bunch of parsley, with which you have mixed
two bay-leaves and a few sprigs of thyme, also two apples, peeled and
cut in quarters; when boiling place it at the corner of the stove, let
simmer gently for three hours, skimming off every particle of fat, or it
would interfere with the clarification; it should be reduced to about a
half, pass it through a fine cloth into a basin, place a little in a
mould upon ice to ascertain if sufficiently firm, if too firm add a
little light broth, but if, on the contrary, too weak, reduce it until
you have obtained the consistency of strong calf’s-foot jelly, place the
remainder in a stewpan upon the fire, taste if to your palate; have the
whites of six eggs in a basin, with the shells, whisk them half a
minute, add a gill of water or broth, two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar,
and a little salt, beat all together, have the stock boiling upon the
fire, whisk round, pour in the eggs at once, and keep whisking a few
minutes; set the stewpan at the corner with the lid on, upon which place
some live charcoal, and let it remain five minutes, have a fine napkin,
which tie in a square upon the top of your jelly-stand, through which
pass it into a basin, pouring the first that runs through again into the
napkin, when passed and set it is ready for use where directed. Should
you require the aspic to partake of the flavour of fowl, twenty minutes
before passing the stock, thrust a fowl just roasted into it, leaving it
but a very short time. The same remark also applies to game of any
description, should you require the aspic of such a flavour. To obtain
aspic of a fine gold colour, let your stock draw down to a pale
yellowish glaze before filling it up, or add a spoonful of brown gravy
(No. 135); three very distinct colours may likewise be made of aspic,
without introducing the colour-box of some celebrated artists, that is,
leaving the one nearly white, the other a gold colour, as above
mentioned, and the other quite a dark brown, adding more brown gravy and
reducing it a little, clarifying it separately, and colouring before the
clarification; place it in three separate sauté-pans or flat moulds,
which place upon ice, when set, ornament your dishes tastefully, it will
produce an excellent effect, especially in a large supper. Should you
not succeed in clarifying it the first time, the operation must be again
performed.
No. 1361. _Mayonnaise à la gelée._
Put a quarter of a pint of melted aspic upon ice in a stewpan, which
keep whisking until becoming a white froth, then add half a pint of
salad-oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, by degrees, first oil,
and then vinegar, continually whisking until it forms a white smooth
sauce, to all appearance like a cream; season with half a teaspoonful of
salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little sugar, whisk it a little
more, and it is ready to serve; it is usually dressed pyramidically over
the article it is served with. The advantage of this sauce (which is
more delicate than any other) is, that you may dress it to any height
you like, and it will remain so for a long time; if the temperature is
not too hot it will remain hours without melting or appearing greasy.
No. 1362. _Mayonnaise à la gelée aux fines herbes._
Proceed precisely as in the last, but adding half a spoonful of fresh
chopped parsley, half a one of finely chopped eschalots, and one of
finely chopped fresh tarragon and chervil.
No. 1363. _Mayonnaise à la gelée en Ravigote verte._
Well pound two good handfuls of spinach in a mortar, and put it into a
thick cloth over a dish, twist up the cloth as tight as possible, until
you have extracted all the liquor, which put into a stewpan, and place
over the fire, the moment it boils it will curdle, when pour it upon the
back of a silk sieve, when cold take a spoonful of the green from off
the sieve, which put into a basin with a good spoonful of chopped
tarragon; have ready a good mayonnaise à la gelée (No. 1361), which put
into the basin, mixing the whole lightly, but well together; it will be
of a fine pistachio green colour, and is then ready for use where
required. To make it red, use the spawn of lobster and omit the spinach.
It requires to be extremely well seasoned.
No. 1364. _Mayonnaise ordinaire._
Put the yolks of two fresh eggs in a basin, with the yolk of one
hard-boiled one, rub through a hair sieve, add two saltspoonfuls of
salt, and one of white pepper, stir round with the right hand with a
wooden spoon, holding a bottle of salad-oil in the left, dropping it in
by degrees, continually stirring, when becoming a little thickish, add a
couple of spoonfuls of common vinegar, by degrees, still keeping it
stirred, then more oil, proceeding thus until you have used a pint of
oil and four or five spoonfuls of vinegar, having, by constantly working
it, formed a stiffish cream-looking sauce, perfectly smooth; this sauce
being used for salads, requires to be rather highly seasoned, as it
affords the seasoning for salad, volaille, &c.; mayonnaise aux fines
herbes, ditto en ravigote verte, are made as above, adding the herbs, or
herbs and spinach as in the two preceding. Should the sauce curdle in
making, the operation must be again commenced, putting the yolk of an
egg in a basin, stirring in carefully a little oil and vinegar, and when
forming a smoothish paste, stir in the curdled sauce by degrees until
the whole has become very smooth. Always choose a cool place to make it
in.
No. 1365. _Mayonnaise à la Provençale._
Prepare a sauce as described in the last, quite plain, bruise half a
clove of a garlic to a purée, which add to the sauce with twelve chopped
olives, two of chopped gherkins, two of capers, and the fillets of a
small anchovy cut in fine strips; this sauce may be used for any
description of salad. There are many persons who, I am aware, have a
great dislike to garlic, but as there are a great many also very fond of
it, I have here given it as a _bonne bouche_.
No. 1366. _Montpellier Butter._
Boil six eggs quite hard, when cold take out the yolks, which put into a
mortar with four anchovies well washed, two spoonfuls of capers, six
gherkins, a little salt and pepper, a spoonful of tarragon and chervil,
and one of parsley, pound all well together (adding the yolk of a raw
egg) until it forms a stiffish paste; then add by degrees a pint of oil
(keep mixing with the pestle), moistening occasionally with vinegar, add
a spoonful of the colouring from spinach prepared as (No. 1363), to give
it a nice colour, rub it through a hair sieve into a basin, put it upon
the ice, and when firm it is ready to use where directed; a quarter of
the above only may be prepared if no more is required.
No. 1367. _Forcemeat for raised pies._
Take three pounds of lean veal from the leg, which cut into very small
dice, with one pound of fat bacon, put the whole into a middling-sized
stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, two bay-leaves, two sprigs
of thyme, six of parsley, one blade of mace, twelve peppercorns, half an
ounce of pepper, and the same of salt, pass it over a sharp fire until
the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze, stirring the
whole time; then turn it upon a dish, and when cold chop it very fine,
taking out the mace and peppercorns, put it in a mortar and pound it
well; add two pounds of sausage-meat, pound and mix the whole well
together, then add six eggs and a little cold white sauce, when well
mixed it is ready for use where directed.
No. 1368. _Forcemeat of Liver for game pies._
Procure a very nice calf’s liver, which lay in water a short time to
disgorge, then cut it up in small dice, with a pound of lean veal and
one of fat bacon, put the whole in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound
of butter, an ounce of pepper, the same of salt, rather less than a
quarter of an ounce of mixed spice, two bay-leaves, and a little thyme
and parsley, pass ten minutes over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred;
then lay it upon a dish until cold, when put it into a mortar and pound
well, when fine add one pound of pork sausage-meat, with six eggs and a
little brown sauce, mix the whole well together, rub it through a wire
sieve with a wooden spoon, and use where directed.
No. 1369. _Sponge-cake._
Put one pound of powdered sugar in a good-sized bowl, which stand in a
bain marie of hot water; sift one pound of flour upon a sheet of paper,
then break twelve eggs into the bowl with the sugar, which whisk rather
quickly until they become a little warm and rather thickish, when take
the bowl from the bain marie, and continue whisking until nearly or
quite cold, when add the chopped rind of a lemon and the flour, which
mix lightly with a wooden spoon; have ready your mould or baking-dish
lightly buttered, into which you have put a little flour, knocking out
all that does not adhere to the butter, pour in the mixture and place it
one hour in a moderate oven, it may require longer or not so long, but
that will depend entirely upon the compass you have it in; if done it
will feel firm to the touch, but the surest method is to run a thin
wooden skewer into the centre, if it comes out clean the cake is done,
but if not some of the mixture would adhere to it; care should be taken
not to disturb it until quite set, or it would sink in the centre, and
never properly bake; when done turn it out upon a sieve to cool. As the
above is for cutting, and many of my new removes are made from it, it
had better be overdone than not done enough.
No. 1370. _Savoy Cake in mould._
Have ready a large high mould lightly buttered, (with a soft brush, and
clarified butter,) turn the mould up to drain, and when the butter is
quite set throw some finely sifted sugar into it; move the mould round
until the sugar has adhered to every part, after which turn out the
superfluous sugar, tie a band of buttered paper round at the top, and
place it in a cool place until the mixture is ready. Place the yolks of
fourteen eggs in a basin with one pound of sugar (upon which you have
rubbed the rind of two lemons previous to pounding), beat well together
with a wooden spoon until nearly white, then whip the whites of the eggs
very stiff, add them to the yolks and sugar, with six ounces of flour
and six ounces of potato-flour, mix the whole lightly, but well
together, and fill the mould rather more than three parts full, place it
in a very moderate oven one hour, keeping the oven door shut; then try
when done as directed in the last, if done take off the paper and turn
it out upon a sieve until quite cold. The above mixture being more
delicate than the last, would not do so well for removes, but may be
used for that purpose by being made three or four days before it is
required.
No. 1371. _Savoy Biscuits._
Have the weight of nine eggs of sugar in a bowl, which put into a bain
marie of hot water, weigh the same weight of flour, which sift through a
wire sieve upon paper, break the eggs into a bowl, and proceed as
directed for sponge-cake; then with a paper funnel or bag, with a tin
pipe made for that purpose, lay it out upon papers into biscuits three
inches in length, and the thickness of your little finger, sift sugar
over, shaking off all that does not adhere to them; place them upon
baking-sheets and bake in rather a warm oven of a brownish yellow
colour, when done and cold detach them from the paper by wetting it at
the back, place them a short time to dry, and they are ready for use for
charlotte russe, or wherever directed.
No. 1372. _To clarify Isinglass._
Put a quarter of a pound of isinglass in a small stewpan, just cover it
with a little clear spring water, and add a piece of lump sugar the size
of a walnut, place it upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round
occasionally to prevent its sticking to the bottom; when upon the point
of simmering add the juice of half a lemon, let simmer about a quarter
of an hour, skim and pass it through a fine cloth; if the isinglass is
good it will be as clear as crystal, but if it should be a little
clouded (which it might be, and yet the isinglass tolerably good)
clarify it again thus: pour it into a larger stewpan adding half a gill
of water, place it upon the fire, and when on the point of boiling have
the white of an egg in a basin, whip well with half a gill of water,
pour it into the isinglass, which keep whisking over the fire until
boiling, when place it at the corner of the stove, and let reduce to its
former consistency, it will keep good some few days if kept in a cool
place; if required for crèmes or bavaroises it will not require
clarifying, but merely dissolving as at first directed.
No. 1373. _Glace Royale or Iceing._
Have ready a pound of the best white sugar, which pound well and sift
through a silk sieve, put it into a basin with the whites of three fresh
eggs, beat well together with a wooden spoon, adding the juice of half a
lemon, keep beating well until it becomes very light and hangs in flakes
from the spoon (if it should be rather too stiff in mixing, add a little
more white of egg, if, on the contrary, too soft, a little more sugar),
it is then ready for use where required.
No. 1374. _Chocolate Iceing_
Is made similar to the last, but when finished have ready a piece of the
common chocolate, which melt in a stewpan over the fire, keeping it
stirred; when quite melted stir some of it in with the iceing until you
have obtained the colour required, moistening the iceing with a little
more white of egg, and use where directed.
No. 1375. _Sugar in grains_
Is made by pounding a quantity of sugar in a mortar, and sifting off all
the fine through a hair sieve, then again what remains in the sieve put
into a rather coarse wire sieve, and that which passes through is what
is meant by the above term.
No. 1376. _To colour sugar in grains._
Prepare about half a pound of the sugar as in the last, which put upon a
baking-sheet; have a spoonful of the essence of spinach prepared as (No.
1244), which stir in with the sugar until every grain is stained, when
put them in a warmish place to dry, but not too hot; to colour them
red, use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine, instead of the
spinach, and proceed exactly the same; sugar may be made of other
colours by the use of indigo, rouge, saffron, &c.; but not being partial
to such a variety of colouring, I have merely given the red and the
green, which, with the white, I consider to be sufficient for any of the
purposes for which they are used.
No. 1377. _Vanilla Sugar._
Chop a stick of well-frosted vanilla very small, and put it into a
mortar with half a pound of lump sugar, pound the whole well together in
a mortar, sift through a hair sieve, and put by in a bottle or jar,
corking it up tight, and using where required.
No. 1378. _Lemon Sugar._
Rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large piece of sugar, and as it
discolours the part upon which it is rubbed scrape it off with a knife;
when you have obtained a sufficient quantity, dry a little in the
screen, and bottle for use where required. Orange sugar may be made in
the same manner, substituting very red oranges for the lemons.
No. 1379. _To clarify and boil Sugar._
Break three pounds of fine white sugar, the hardest and closest grained
is the best, put it into a sugar-pan with three pints of clear spring
water, set over a sharp fire, and when beginning to boil place it at the
corner to simmer, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, skim well
and reduce to two thirds, it is then ready to use for jellies, &c.
If not able to obtain the best quality sugar it would be necessary to
use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification, by putting the
white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well with a pint of cold
water, add half of it to the sugar, whipping it well in, let simmer,
adding the remainder by degrees whilst simmering, and passing it through
a fine cloth into a basin. The boiling of sugar is divided into seven
different degrees, which may be ascertained by the following
directions:--
The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into it whilst
boiling, turning it over two or three times, if the sugar falls from it
in sheets it has attained the first degree.
The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer, dipping your
finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger into the boiling
sugar, putting your finger and thumb together, and again opening them,
it will form a kind of thread; if it is too weak boil a little longer,
this is the most useful degree for fruit or water ices.
The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and trying
it in the same manner, upon the thread breaking, should it form a kind
of pearl, it has attained the above degree; the sugar in boiling would
also be covered with a quantity of small bubbles resembling pearls.
The next degree is attained by boiling it still longer, dip a skimmer
into it, turn, take out and blow it hard, when the sugar will form
little bladders and float in the air, this degree is called the soufflé.
For the next degree boil still longer, trying it in the same manner, but
blowing harder, the bladders will be larger and adhere together, forming
feathers; this degree is called la plume, or the feather.
The next is called au petite casée, and is obtained by boiling the sugar
a little longer, to know this degree have a pint of cold water in a
basin into which you have put a piece of ice, dip you finger into it,
then into the boiling sugar, and then into the water again, take the
piece which adheres to the finger and bite, if rather crisp, but
sticking to the teeth, it has attained that degree.
The seventh and last requires great attention, to attain it boil rather
longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and does not at all
adhere to the teeth in biting it is done, take from the fire and it is
ready for use for making any kind of sugar ornament.
When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tartaric acid
when it arrives to the degree la plume, and pour it into a smaller
sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will be then unable to burn
round the sides as if in a larger pan; if such a thing should, however,
happen in a larger pan, wipe the interior of the pan round with a sponge
previously dipped in cold water, or it would discolour the sugar.
Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for a dinner, but
if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last degree. Should the
sugar grain it may be brought back by adding more water, and when
dissolved, boiling over again; in spinning sugar you must keep the bulk
of it in a warm temperature, having a little in a smaller pan for use,
which keep in a melted state by placing it in a bain marie of hot water
or in a hot closet.
No. 1380. _Sucre filé._
Having boiled your sugar to the seventh degree, as in the last, oil the
handle of a wooden spoon, tie two forks together, the prongs turned
outwards, dip them lightly into the sugar, take out and shake them to
and fro, the sugar running from them over the spoon forming fine silken
threads, proceeding thus until you have as much as you require, take it
from the spoon and form it with your hands into whatever may be directed
for the garnishing of any dish, not, however, too thick, or it would
look heavy. An experienced hand would prefer doing it from the lip of
the sugar-pan.
Other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar manner by
oiling a mould or shape and running fillets of the sugar from the lip of
the pan over it as tastefully as possible, but as I have not referred to
it in this work I will not enter into its details.
No. 1381. _Vanilla Cream Ice._
Put the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with half a pound of sugar,
beat well together with a wooden spoon, in another stewpan have a quart
of milk and when boiling throw in two sticks of vanilla, draw it from
the fire, place on the lid and let remain until partly cold, pour it
over the eggs and sugar in the other stewpan, mix well, and place it
over the fire (keeping it stirred) until it thickens and adheres to the
back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammie into a basin, let
remain until cold, then have ready a pewter freezing-pot in an ice-pail
well surrounded with ice and salt;[18] put the above preparation into
it, place on the lid, which must fit rather tightly, and commence
twisting the pot round sharply, keeping it turned for about ten minutes,
when take off the lid and with your spatula clear the sides of the
interior of the pot, place the lid on again, turn the pot ten minutes
longer, when again clear the sides and beat the whole well together
until smooth, it being then about half frozen, then add four glasses of
noyeau or maresquino and a pint and a half of cream well whipped, beat
the whole well together, place the lid upon the top, keep twisting it
round a quarter of an hour, clear well from the sides, beat again well
together, proceeding thus until the whole is frozen into a stiff but
smooth and mellow substance, should you require to keep it sometime
before serving, pour the water which has run from the ice out of the
pail and add fresh ice and salt; when ready to serve work it up smoothly
with your spatula.
No. 1382. _Coffee Cream Ice._
Proceed exactly as in the last but omitting the noyeau or maresquino,
and making an infusion with coffee as directed (No. 1253) instead of
vanilla.
No. 1383. _Chocolate Cream Ice._
Is made similar to the vanilla cream ice, but omitting the vanilla and
liqueur, in the room of which scrape a quarter of a pound of chocolate,
place it in a stewpan over the fire and keep stirring until melted, then
have ready boiling a quart of milk, which mix with the chocolate by
degrees, finish with eggs and sugar, and freeze as before.
No. 1384. _Pineapple Cream Ice._
Procure a rather small pineapple, take off the rind which reserve, and
cut the apple into pieces an inch in length and about the thickness of a
quill, place them in a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a
pint of water, set it upon the fire and reduce to a rather thickish
syrup, have ready a pint and a half of milk upon the fire, into which
when boiling throw the rind of the pineapple, cover it over and let
infuse ten minutes, in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, to
which add the milk by degrees, (previously straining it,) place over the
fire, keeping it stirred until adhering to the back of the spoon, when
pass it through a tammie into a basin, add the syrup and pineapple, and
freeze it as in the last, adding a pint and a half of whipped cream;
when half frozen use where directed.
No. 1385. _Lemon Cream Ice._
Take the rind from six lemons as thin as possible and free from pith,
squeeze the juice of the lemons into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of
sugar and half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and reduce until
rather a thickish syrup, have a pint and a half of milk upon the fire
into which when boiling throw the rind of the lemons, cover over and let
remain until half cold, in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve
eggs, (to which you have added an ounce of sugar), with which mix the
milk by degrees, and stir over the fire till it adheres to the back of
the spoon, when stir in the syrup and pass it through a tammie; when
cold freeze as directed (No. 1381) adding a pint of whipped cream when
half frozen.
No. 1386. _Orange Cream Ice._
Proceed precisely as in the last, but using the juice and rind of ten
oranges instead of lemons as there directed.
No. 1387. _Apricot Cream Ice._
Procure a dozen and a half of fine ripe apricots, which cut in halves,
take out the stones, which break, extracting the kernels, which blanch
in very hot water and skin, then put them with the apricots into a
sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a glassful of water, let
them boil until almost forming a marmalade, when put them by in a basin,
have the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with which mix by degrees a
pint and a half of milk, set over the fire, keeping it stirred until
thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a
tammie into a basin, add the syrup and apricots, and when cold three
glasses of noyeau, freeze as in (No. 1381), and when half frozen add a
pint of good whipped cream.
No. 1388. _Strawberry Cream Ice._
Procure about two pounds of fine ripe strawberries, which pick and rub
through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon, obtaining all the juice and
pulp of the strawberries, with which mix half a pound of powdered sugar
and put it by in a basin, in a stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs,
with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, stir over the fire
until it becomes thickish, adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass
it through a tammie, and when cold add the juice from the strawberries
and three glasses of maresquino, freeze it as directed (No. 1381),
adding a pint of whipped cream when half frozen and sufficiently
prepared; cochineal to give it a strawberry colour if approved of.
No. 1389. _Apple Marmalade._
Peel and cut thirty apples in slices, taking out the cores, and if for
preserving to every pound of fruit put three quarters of a pound of
broken sugar, (but if for immediate use half a pound would be quite
sufficient,) place the whole into a large preserving-pan, with half a
spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind of a lemon chopped very fine,
set the pan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally until boiling,
when keep stirring until becoming rather thick, it is then done; if for
immediate use a smaller quantity would be sufficient, which put by in a
basin until cold, but if to keep any time put it in jars, which cover
over with paper, and tie down until wanted.
No. 1390. _Apricot Marmalade._
Stone about eight pounds of ripe fleshy apricots, break the stones, and
blanch and skin the kernels, which with the apricots put into a
preserving-pan, add six pounds of sugar and place it over a sharp fire,
stirring occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming
rather thick, take it off, put it in jars, and when cold tie paper over,
and put by until ready for use.
No. 1391. _Quince Marmalade._
Procure a sieve of fine ripe quinces, which peel and cut in four, taking
out the cores, place them in a large preserving-pan and cover with cold
water; set upon the fire, and when boiling and tender to the touch,
place them in a large sieve to drain one hour, pass them through a
tammie, then have ready a corresponding weight of sugar boiled to the
sixth degree (No. 1379) in the preserving-pan, to which add the purée of
quinces, keep stirring over the fire till forming thin sheets, drop a
little upon the cover of a stewpan, if it sets quickly take it from the
fire, put it in small jars, and let remain a day until quite cold, when
tie them down, and put by until wanted.
No. 1392. _Apricot Marmalade (transparent)._
Procure a quantity of very ripe apricots, each of which cut into four or
six pieces, break the stones and blanch the kernels, put the apricots in
a preserving-pan with a small quantity of water, boil them until quite
tender, when pass them through a sieve; to every pound of fruit have
three quarters of a pound of sugar (in a preserving-pan) boiled to the
sixth degree (No. 1379), add the apricots with their kernels, and keep
stirring over the fire until forming thin transparent sheets, try when
done as in the last, and put away in pots. The marmalade would be still
more transparent if you were to peel the apricots first, but then you
would lose some of their delicious flavour.
No. 1393. _Cherry Marmalade._
Procure a sieve of bright Kentish cherries, pull out the stalks and
stones, and put the fruit in a preserving-pan, place over the fire,
keeping it stirred until reduced to two thirds, have in another
preserving-pan, to every pound of fruit, half a pound of sugar boiled to
the sixth degree (No. 1379), into which pour the fruit when boiling hot,
let reduce, keep stirring until you can just see the bottom of the pan,
when take it from the fire, and fill your jars as before.
A plainer way is to take off the stalks and stone the fruit, place them
in a pan over a sharp fire, and to every pound of fruit add nearly half
a pound of sugar, keep stirring until reduced as above, and let it get
partly cold in the pan before filling the jars.
No. 1394. _Strawberry Marmalade._
Pick twelve pounds of very red ripe strawberries, which put into a
preserving-pan with ten pounds of sugar (broken into smallish pieces),
place over a sharp fire, keep continually stirring, boiling it until the
surface is covered with clearish bubbles, try a little upon a cover, if
it sets, fill the jars as before.
No. 1395. _Raspberry Marmalade._
Pick twelve pounds of raspberries and pass them through a fine sieve to
extract the seeds, boil as many pounds of sugar as you had pounds of
fruit to the sixth degree (No. 1379), when add the pulp of the fruit,
keep stirring over the fire, reducing it until you can just see the
bottom of the pan, take it from the fire, and put it into jars as
before.
No. 1396. _Apple Jelly._
Cut six dozen of sound rennet apples in quarters, take out all the pips,
put them into a sugar-pan, just cover them with cold water, and place
over the fire, let boil until the apples become quite pulpy, when drain
them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin, which afterwards pass
through a new and very clean jelly-bag; to every pint of liquor have one
pound of sugar, which boil to the sixth degree as directed (No. 1379),
when, whilst hot, mix in the liquor from the apple with a very clean
skimmer, to prevent it boiling over keep it skimmed, lift the skimmer
occasionally from the pan, and when the jelly falls from it in thin
sheets, take it up and fill the pots as before; the smaller pots are the
best adapted for jellies.
No. 1397. _Quince Jelly._
Proceed exactly as directed in the last, but using quinces instead of
apples.
No. 1398. _Currant and Raspberry Jelly._
Put half a sieve of fine red currants in a large stewpan with a gallon
of white currants and a gallon of raspberries, add a quart of water,
place over the fire, keep stirring, to prevent them sticking to the
bottom, and let boil about ten minutes, pour them into a sieve to drain,
catching the juice in a basin and draining the currants quite dry, pass
the juice whilst hot through a clean jelly-bag, have a pound of sugar to
every pint of juice, and proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly.
Should you have time to pick the currants from the stalks previous to
boiling, you would lose that bitter flavour, and have less difficulty in
making your jelly clear.
No. 1399. _Currant Jelly_
Is made precisely as in the last, omitting the raspberries, the
difference being in the use; the last being adapted for the garnishing
of pastry, and this to use for sauces, or to serve with hares, venison,
or any other meat, where required.
A more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the fruit through
a sieve, and afterwards squeeze it through a fine linen cloth, put it
into a preserving-pan with to every pint of juice, three quarters of a
pound of white sugar; place over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally
with a skimmer, keeping it well skimmed; it is done when dropping in
sheets as before from the skimmer. For my own part, I prefer this last
simple method, being quicker done, and retaining more of the full
freshness of the fruit.
It is not my intention to give a description of the various methods of
preserving fruits which belong to the confectionary department; I have
however given the few foregoing receipts, they being required for
reference from various parts of this work, and being all that are
required for the garnishing of dishes for the second course; various
other fruits may, however, be made into marmalades and jellies by
following those few simple directions.
No. 1400. _To preserve Tomatas._
Procure six half sieves of fine red ripe tomatas, pull out the stalks,
squeeze out the seeds, and throw the tomatas into a middling-sized
stock-pot or large stewpan, add two carrots (cut in thin slices), ten
onions (do.), a head of celery, ten sprigs of thyme, ten do. of parsley,
six bay-leaves, six cloves of garlic, four blades of mace, ten cloves,
ten peppercorns, and a handful of salt; place upon the fire, move them
occasionally from the bottom, and let boil three quarters of an hour;
then line a couple of large sieves with cloths, into which put them to
drain, (not too dry,) throw the liquor that runs from them away, rub
them through a wire sieve, and afterwards through tammies, then put them
into a stewpan, season with a teaspoonful of cayenne and a little more
salt, place upon the fire, and stir until boiling, take from the fire,
and when about three parts cold, put into strong glass bottles[19] (do
not fill them too full), cork them down, tightly securing the corks with
wire or string, place them in a vegetable steamer, and steam them well
for half an hour (or if no steamer, have a large fish-kettle of water
simmering, in which stand the bottles, with their necks just out of the
water) take them out, and when cold dip the tops into melted pitch and
rosin, then into cold water, and put by until required.
END Of RECEIPTS FOR THE TABLE OF THE WEALTHY.
SERVICE PAGODATIQUE.
My new pagodatique dishes, which have been pronounced by persons of
taste who have seen them (and more so by those who have partaken of
their contents) to be most novel, useful, and elegant, a service of them
forming quite a new coup d’œil, and giving the greatest variation to
small récherché dinners. Having invented them only last year, and having
then this work in progress, caused me to refrain from giving them any
great publicity previous to this publication; and the only service ever
used was by me at the Reform Club, where they met with complete success.
A minute description of the origin, utility, and construction will be
found at the end of this work, with correct engravings, representing it
both with and without the cover; so I shall here content myself by
giving a bill of fare of a dinner served in them, to grace the _table of
the wealthy_, as represented in the following engraving. They being
entirely devoted for entrées, four of them make a service, and in very
large dinners may be always introduced as corner dishes. In the
following bill of fare I have given two entrées, containing four sauces
each, and the others with only two, being the manner in which I have
frequently served them, each brown entrée must be lightly glazed,
dressed elegantly in the centre, not covering too large a space, and
just sufficient clear gravy to cover the bottom of your dish, whilst the
white entrées would require a little thin white sauce; some entrées,
again, which require to be dipped in white or brown sauce would have
sufficient run from them to cover bottom of the dish.
[Illustration: BARFF TUCKER, del.
TABLE OF THE WEALTHY.
J. WALMSLEY, Sculp.
Rien ne dispose mieux l’esprit humain à des transactions amicales qu’un
diner bien conçu artistement préparé.]
Bill of Fare
DINER POUR DIX PERSONNES.
Potage à la Victoria.
Potage à la Prince of Wales.
DEUX POISSONS.
Petit Turbot en matelote Truites de rivière
vierge. à la crème.
DEUX RELEVÉS.
Quartier d’Agneau de Maison rôti.
Petites Poulardes en Diadème.
QUATRE ENTRÉES PAGODATIQUE.
Petites Cotelettes de Mouton au naturel, les quatres saucières
garnies des sauces et garnitures suivantes,
Rissolettes à la Pompadour
_Remoulade blanche_ _au Jus d’Echalote_
_à la Réforme._ _à la Palestine._
_Ris d’Agneau Piqué_
_aux pointes d’Asperges._ _aux Concombres._
Quenelles de Pluviers
_à la Périgueux_ _au Velouté de Gibier_
_aux champignons._ _à la Financière._
Filets de Canetons
_au jus d’Orange._ _aux petits pois._
DEUX ROTIS.
Les Cailles aux feuilles de vignes.
Jeunes Dindonneaux aux cressons.
SIX ENTREMETS.
La Gelée de Fruit demi Petites Coquilles
chaud froid marbré. aux huîtres.
Asperges à la Galantine de Poussin
Hollandaise. à la Volière.
Maniveau de Champignons Charlotte de Fraises
en surprise à la crème. au noyeau.
DEUX RELEVÉS.
Gateau Britannique à l’Amiral.
Croquettes de Macaroni au fromage de Stilton.
DINER LUCULLUSIAN À LA SAMPAYO.
I beg to present to my Readers a copy of the Bill-of-fare of the most
recherché dinner I ever dressed, which the liberality and epicurean
taste of the gentleman who gave it, to a select party of connoiseurs,
enabled me to procure; he wishing me to get him a first-rate dinner, and
spare no expense in procuring the most novel, luxurious, and rare
edibles to be obtained at this extravagant season of the year; I,
therefore, much to his satisfaction, placed before him and his guests
the following: (see p. 609).
I had also proposed the following dish to the party, which was accepted,
but which I was unable to obtain from Paris on account of a change in
the weather preventing their arrival, the articles being two dozen of
ortolans; having already procured twelve of the largest and finest
truffles I could obtain, it was my intention to have dug a hole in each,
into which I should have placed one of the birds, and covered each with
a piece of lamb’s or calf’s caul, then to have braised them half an hour
in good stock made from fowl and veal, with half a pint of Lachryma
Christi added; then to have drained them upon a cloth, placed a border
of poached forcemeat upon the dish, built the truffles in pyramid, made
a purée with the truffle dug from the interior, using the stock reduced
to a demi-glace and poured over, roasted the twelve remaining ortolans
before a sharp fire, with which I should have garnished the whole round,
and served very hot.
REFORM CLUB.
_9 Mai, 1846._ _Diner pour 10 Personnes._
Potage à la Comte de Paris.
Do. à la purée d’Asperges.
Deux Poissons.
Saumon de Severne Rougets gratinés
à la Mazarin. à la Montesquieu.
Deux Relevés.
Le Chapon farci de Foie gras à la Nelson.
Saddleback d’Agneau de Maison à la Sévigné.
Quatre Hors-d’œuvres à la Française.
Les Olives farcies. Salade d’Anchois historiée.
Thon mariné à l’Italienne. Sardines à l’Huile de Noisette.
Quatre Entrées.
Rissolettes à la Pompadour.
Rissolettes à la Pompadour.
Sauté de Filets de Volaille à l’Ambassadrice.
Petites Croustades de Beurre aux Laitances de Maquereaux.
Cotelettes de Mouton Galloise à la Réforme.
Turban de Ris de Veau purée de Concombres.
Deux Rôtis.
Les grosses Asperges vertes,
sauce à la Crème.
Les grosses Asperges vertes,
sauce à la Crème.
Les Dotrelles aux Feuilles de Vignes.
Le Buisson d’Ecrevisse Pagodatique, au Vin
de Champagne à la Sampayo.
La Gelée de Dantzic Les Croquantes d’Amandes
aux fruits Printaniers. pralinées aux Abricots.
Les petits Pois nouveaux Le Miroton de Homard aux
à l’Anglo-Français. Œufs de Pluviers.
Les grosses Truffes La Crème mousseuse au
à l’essence de Madère. Curaçao.
Deux Relevés.
La Hûre de Sanglier demi-glacée,
arnie de Champignons en surprise.
Les Diablotins au fromage de Windsor.
[NOTE. The tradespeople received their orders a week previous to
the dinner. The finest mullets I ever saw, as well as the Severn
salmon, were obtained at Grove’s, in Bond Street; the remainder of
the fish was from Jay’s, Hungerford Market. At seven o’clock the
live Severn salmon was brought to me, it having just arrived direct
from Gloucester, and was boiled immediately, being just ten minutes
before the dinner was placed upon the table, and was eaten in its
greatest possible perfection. The finest of the poultry came from
Bailey’s, Davis Street, Grosvenor Square, and Townsend’s, Charles
Street, Haymarket. The foies gras and some very fine fresh French
truffles came from Morel’s; the hors-d’-œuvres, from Edges and
Butler’s, Regent Street. The saddleback of lamb came from
Newland’s, Air Street, Piccadilly, the Welsh mutton from Skier’s,
and the young green peas and a very expensive dessert came from
Solomon’s, Covent Garden. My being so minute in mentioning the name
of the above tradespeople is not to advertise their fame in their
different specialities, as that I believe they have already
acquired, but merely to prove the trouble a real gourmet will take
to furnish his table, Mr. S. having called many times upon several
of them himself, previous to this party taking place, to ascertain
what his dinner was to be composed of. The most expensive dishes
were the mullets, the salmon, poulardes à la Nelson, and, above
all, the crawfish which, when dressed, cost upwards of seven
guineas.]
DIALOGUE CULINAIRE
_Entre_ LORD M. H. _et_ A. SOYER.
_S._ Vous avez parfaitement raison, Mylord; le titre de gourmet
n’appartient qu’à celui qui mange avec art, avec science, avec ordre, et
même avec beaucoup d’ordre.
_Lord M._ Le gourmand n’est jamais gourmet; l’un mange sans déguster,
l’autre déguste en mangeant.
_S._ L’homme fier et hautain, Mylord, s’occupe de son diner par besoin;
l’homme du monde, épicure profond, s’en occupe avec plaisir.
_Lord M._ Il est certain que l’on ne saurait donner trop d’attention à
la rigide exécution et à l’ordre intelligent d’un diner. Le diner étant
de chaque jour, de chaque saison, de chaque siècle, est non seulement la
seule mode héréditaire, mais aussi l’âme de la sociabilité; lisez
l’histoire, et vous y verrez que de tous les temps, et chez tous les
peuples, le bien qui s’est fait, et quelquefois le mal, fut toujours
précédé ou suivi d’un copieux diner.
_S._ Rien, n’est plus vrai, Mylord, que de tous les plaisirs de la vie
qui nous sont légués en ce monde, celui de la table est le seul auquel
les rênes du char de la vie n’échappent qu’à regret; et souvent, en ami
fidèle, ne les lâche qu’aux abords du tombeau; tandis que tous les
autres s’épanouissent frivolement, comme à la suite d’un beau printemps,
et, en nous délaissant, couvrent nos fronts radieux du givre des ans.
_Lord M._ Il est positif que déguster est une faculté de tout âge; un
vieillard de cent six ans, que j’ai beaucoup connu, dégustait
parfaitement alors.
_S._ Nos cent dégustateurs demandent de continuelles études, et
réclament, sans cesse, un continuel changement.
_Lord M._ Le plus bel esprit manquerait d’éloquence s’il négligeait par
trop l’ordre de ses repas.
_S._ C’est ce qui nous prouve, Mylord, que nos plus agréables sensations
dépendent non seulement de la nature, mais aussi du soin que nous
donnons à notre personne.
_Lord M._ Oui, car plus l’âme est sensible, plus la dégustation est
féconde. Les sensations dégustatives opèrent avec autant d’activité sur
le palais que le charme de la mélodie le fait sur l’ouïe; par exemple,
l’homme dans un cas de folie, peut bien éprouver le besoin de manger,
mais l’action enchanteresse de la dégustation lui est aussi interdite
que la raison.
_S._ Votre argument sur ce point est extrêmement juste, Mylord.
N’êtes-vous pas aussi de mon avis, que rien ne dispose mieux l’esprit
humain à des transactions amicales, qu’un diner bien conçu et
artistement préparé.
_Lord M._ C’est ce qui m’a toujours fait dire qu’un bon cuisinier est
aussi utile qu’un savant conseiller.
_S._ Je me suis toujours aperçu, Mylord, que le palais le plus fin était
le plus difficile à plaire, mais aussi le plus juste à récompenser.
_Lord M._ Le choix des vins est de haute importance dans l’ordre d’un
diner; un vin fin, léger et généreux protège le cuisinier et devient le
bienfaiteur du convive.
_S._ Permettez-moi de vous faire observer, Mylord, qu’une réunion
gastronomique sans dames est à mes yeux un parterre sans fleurs, l’océan
sans flots, une flotte maritime sans voiles.
_Lord M._ Certes, de telles réunions sont le berceau des bonnes mœurs
et de la jovialité, comme la débauche est le tombeau de la moralité.
REFORM CLUB, May 14, 1846.
[Illustration: THE KITCHEN DEPARTMENT OF THE REFORM CLUB.
“This is a curious print, and unique of its kind: it presents on a large
scale a coup-d’œil of the matchless culinary arrangements of the
Reform Club, the various offices for which extend over the whole
basement of the building. To show them at one glance, the
partition-walls are cut away, and a bird’s eye view is given of the
several kitchens, larders, sculleries, and batterie de cuisine: the
different functionaries are all at their ports, and the accomplished
chef, Monsieur SOYER, is in the act of pointing out to a favoured
visitor the various contrivances suggested by his ingenuity and
experience.
“With a plan of the building, there are references to a minute
explanatory account of the uses of the multifarious apparatus here
exhibited, for the admiration of the scientific gastronome and the envy
of rival artistes.”--_Spectator._]
DESCRIPTION
OF THE
KITCHEN OF THE REFORM CLUB,
AND SIMPLE GUIDE FOR
FITTING UP THE KITCHENS OF THE WEALTHY.
INTRODUCTION.
The unexpected success my new plan has met with for the building of
kitchens since the opening of the Reform Club, induced me a few years
ago to publish a sectional plan of it on a large scale, which I am happy
to say was very successful, and met with the approbation of all
scientific men, and of the higher classes of society, having received
instructions since that time to contrive and arrange numerous noblemen’s
and gentlemen’s kitchens, by adapting many of my new and simple
discoveries to any shaped kitchen with the greatest facilities, at a
very moderate expense; I therefore beg to present my readers with the
reduced scale of the plan, as well as the correct measurement and size
of all the apparatus. I have not the slightest hesitation in stating
that, by the simple arrangements which I am about to submit, any
kitchen, large or small, would be easily benefited and improved; it may
also be always kept clean without much labour, the work more carefully
done, and the appetite (my intimate friend) will become the keener. My
motto has always been “cleanliness is the soul of the kitchen.”
REFERENCE TO THE PLAN
OF THE
KITCHEN DEPARTMENT OF THE REFORM CLUB.
A. La Boucherie, in which all Joints are trimmed for cooking.
B. The Meat and Game Larder.
1. Table for provisions which are ready
for dressing.
2. Slate dresser, with ice drawers and
pickling tubs underneath.
3. Slate well for soaking hams.
4. Slate dresser, similar to the preceding,
but larger.
5. Vegetable boxes.
6. Slab for opening oysters.
*** The frame for hanging meat, game,
&c. is suspended from the ceiling.
C. The Cold Meat and Sauce Larder.
1. The safe.
2. Slate slab to deposit cold stocks,
sauces, &c., and shelves.
D. The Pastry and Confectionery.
1. Marble slab.
2. Mortar.
3.3. Dressers for dishing up the second
course, and depositing pastry and
confectionery, under which are
hot and cold drawers, lined with
tin, and having a steam-pipe passing
behind, which slightly warms
them; these drawers are for keeping
either moist or dry whatever
may require to be so kept. Above
each dresser are closets.
E. Office du Chef de Cuisine.
F. Passage.
1. Fish slab.
2. Large shelf to deposit sauces, &c., for cooling.
3. Hour shelf.
G. Open Yard.
H. Lift, to hoist Coals to the Dormitory Department.
I. Passage.
J. Kitchen Maids’ Dining Room.
K. Roasting Kitchen.
1. Low French charcoal stove.
2. Stove.
3. Oven for gratins, soufflés, &c.
4. Steam closet.
5. Fire-place.
6. Screen, with hot closets.
7. Large pastry oven.
8. French charcoal stove for vegetables.
9. Hot delivery window for joints and
vegetables.
10. Mortar.
11. Rack for the spits.
12. Dresser.
13. Iron rails for moulds and coppers.
L. The Vegetable Kitchen.
1. Table to dish up vegetables.
2. Dresser, with steam-pans for cooking
vegetables.
3. Sink for washing vegetables.
4. Draining dresser.
5. Dresser to deposit clean crockery.
6. Two sinks for washing plates and
dishes, provided with bell-traps to
prevent smell. Above is the plate-rack.
7. Delivery window for crockery.
M. The Scouring Scullery.
1. Two sinks for washing coppers.
2. Scouring table.
3. Dresser and draining board.
4. Steam-boiler.
5. Large coal-box.
N. The Butler’s Pantry.
O. The Butler’s Room.
P. Fire-proof Plate Closet.
Q. Passage.
R. Lift, to convey Dinners to the Coffee Room.
S. Staircase.
T. The principal Kitchen.
1. Table.
2. Hot closet.
3. Fire-place.
4. Screen and closets, as in the roasting
kitchen.
5. Sideboard for silver dishes.
6. Dresser, and shelves for covers, moulds,
&c.
7. Low French charcoal stove for large fish.
8. Broiling stoves.
9. A bain marie.
10. Hot closet, to deposit fish, chops, &c.,
if required to wait.
11. Delivery window for entrées.
12. Kitchen clerk’s desk.
13. A bain marie for soups and sauces, to
supply coffee-room.
14. Large French charcoal, and gas stove
for made dishes.
15. A bain marie for soups and sauces,
for house dinners.
16. Sink.
17. Hot plate for dishes to be sent up to
private dining room.
18. Lift for sending up dinners.
[Illustration: PLAN OF THE KITCHEN DEPARTMENT OF THE REFORM CLUB.]
KITCHEN OF THE REFORM CLUB, &c.
(A.) LA BOUCHERIE.
This essential part of the kitchen department is complete in its several
arrangements, and one cannot help noticing that in spite of the moderate
size of this room everything is contrived with the utmost convenience,
perfect ventilation, and with due economy. As this small space is fully
adequate to the general wants of this large kitchen, it must, therefore,
be equally good for one of smaller dimensions. My object not being to
fix the size of all private boucheries according to this, it therefore
must be left to localities, and the details below may be taken as a
general principle. The length of the room is twelve feet by nine; at the
further corners are two blocks to cut the meat upon, which are two feet
in diameter, and two feet seven inches high, including the supporters,
eight inches from the floor, giving facility to clean underneath, also
to prevent decay; between the two blocks is a patent scale of a simple
construction, and very convenient, upon which can be weighed above two
hundred pounds of meat with great ease. On the right and left are two
tables, three inches thick, six feet six inches long, one foot nine
inches wide, and three feet three inches high, with a drawer to each,
and a square box covered over, underneath the tables, for waste fat,
&c.; above the tables is a flat rod with small hooks, one inch and a
half long and three inches apart, upon which are various sized
meat-hooks; all round the room upon the walls are thick slates, six feet
high. Those slates lately introduced in building I would particularly
recommend where coolness is required, and also as being very clean.
(B.) PRINCIPAL LARDER FOR MEAT AND GAME.
The gastronomic variety generally collected in this sanctuary of taste
requires the utmost care and cleanliness, the joints prepared for the
day arranged with symmetry and taste, so as to present to the eye the
finest sides, the same respecting the dressed meat dishes and cold
poultry, which should always be trimmed and garnished with fresh
parsley, ready to be served up at a moment’s notice. A good ventilation,
being of the utmost importance, should be particularly attended to. The
following dimensions will greatly assist for the contrivance of a larder
perfectly convenient if built with the same proportions.
The size is eighteen feet long and fifteen feet wide, having on the
right side a dresser fourteen feet long, three wide, and two feet ten
inches high, the top is of slate one inch thick, instead of wood, which
is an excellent substitute, and always covered with a dresser cloth;
there are eight ice drawers opening on castors, when large and deep as
these, it is advisable to make them in a similar manner running on
castors, as their weight would otherwise cause them to open with
difficulty. The first four are two feet eight inches square and nine
inches deep, lined with lead, and principally for jellies, ice creams,
&c., the others beneath are deeper, for pickling-tubs; the temperature
is from thirty-five to forty degrees, allowing comestibles of the most
delicate kind to be kept a considerable time without deteriorating their
qualities. The construction of those drawers is considered ingenious;
the bottom being inclined on each side towards the middle, which forms
a channel at the end of which there is a small drain to let the ice
water escape without the assistance of hands, having at the back a pipe
to receive the waste water running into other pipes outside.
On the left going in there is another sideboard of the same material,
eight feet and a half long and two feet wide, there are six drawers all
of them lined with lead, and (which might be called simply
ice-preservers, being almost free from air, and only now and then
refreshed with ice at a trifling expense) from five to six inches thick,
covered with a zinc plate to fit the drawer, and a cloth over it for
chops, steaks, aspics, entrées, and a variety of things always kept
fresh and tender; the woodcut below gives the exact form of the drawers
as described above. It will be worth consideration to adopt the plan in
all larders, as they certainly have the several advantages of preserving
ice for a long time, and keeping in readiness any sort of prepared
dishes, and even the flavour of fruit to perfection.
[Illustration: ICE DRAWERS AND DRESSER.]
At the end of this sideboard is a slate well, three feet six inches
long, two feet wide, and one foot deep, supplied with hot and cold
water; this well is used for soaking hams, tongues, and calf’s head;
adjoining is a slab for opening oysters, under which is a well to keep
them in.
In the middle of the larder is a dresser-table, ten feet long and two
feet four inches wide, covered with a tablecloth, to depose fresh
provisions ready for the day’s dressing.
On the right going in are fixed divisions, boxes made of slate, for
vegetables, very simple and very useful, each having sliding fronts of
wood to facilitate cleaning. The first row is ten feet long, divided
into eleven parts, namely, five of one foot one inch opening and eight
inches deep, six inches high in front, and ten inches at the back, the
other six are smaller; the lower divisions are for large vegetables, and
consequently of greater dimensions, divided into seven boxes, five of
which are one foot seven inches deep, nine inches high in front, and one
foot five inches at the back, with one foot five inches opening, the
other two are for potatoes.
The whole appearance of the above boxes is agreeable, for you see at
once all the various productions of the kitchen garden the most in
season, and kept separate. There is something new in the plan which
might easily be adopted. It is remarkably clean and cool. Too often
vegetables are kept in drawers, or mixed together in any corners; where
as if fitted in this style, a gardener or greengrocer, without asking
what is wanted, can observe it at once, and replenishes all empty boxes,
seeing actually what is required and not supplying by guess.
[Illustration: VEGETABLE BOXES.]
[Illustration: SUSPENDED FRAME FOR MEAT, GAME, ETC.]
[Illustration: MEAT HOOK.]
On the ceiling suspended by fixed iron rods is a large frame ten feet
long, and six wide, divided into three parts, having eight iron rods,
one on each side of the transverse battens to hang up the joints, game,
poultry, &c.; by means of loose and moveable hooks tinned over of a
particular form, very easy to remove from and hook on the frame with the
joints or other articles upon it, by the aid of a long handle with a
double hook, there being a hole in the centre of the meat hook for that
purpose, thus avoiding pricking any unnecessary holes in the meat.
(C.) THE COLD MEAT AND SAUCE LARDER. This room, close to the other, is
thirteen feet long and eleven feet wide; on the right is a meat-safe
constructed on a new principle for keeping cold meat, and by which flies
are always excluded. The doors by a simple contrivance open and shut as
it were by themselves, by means of a cord and a weight, which draws
them, the same as a sash rolling upon pullies, in a groove with iron
plates in it, through which two pins are fixed six inches apart; on
pushing the door open the pin is raised underneath to stop it, and by a
retrograde motion of the elbow when taking a dish out the said pin
drops, and the door shuts of itself, it is so quickly done that there is
hardly time for a fly to get in, besides the wires are so close that the
impediment is complete, in addition to that an excellent current of air
always prevails. The meat-safe is four feet high, six feet wide, and
three feet deep, with two shelves inside; under it, between the bottom
and the floor, is a shelf for jars and kitchen basins, &c.
[Illustration: MEAT SAFE.]
On the opposite side is a slate dresser eleven feet long and two feet
three inches wide, with a skirting all along, seven inches high;
underneath at the further end is a cupboard, three feet long, with
shelves for china, by the side is a shelf for jars, &c.; above the
dresser there are two shelves the whole length and two feet wide, for
preserves and bottles and jars of all sizes.
(D.) PASTRY AND CONFECTIONERY. This important part of the kitchen
department may appear small at first view, being only eight feet long
and thirteen feet wide, but the arrangement is in every respect
perfectly convenient. A marble slab, five feet nine inches long and
three feet wide, on a level with the window, with two ice-drawers
beneath, one for butter and eggs, and the other for preserving various
forcemeats, salad, sauces, &c., is sufficient for the work of two
pastrycooks. On the right is a marble mortar, with a long-handled pestle
going through a ring fixed in the wall, and on the left a flour-bin
covered. Underneath are divisions for scales, weights, and sundry
implements, on the right and left are dressers, two feet and a half
wide, with two rows of drawers, where rolling-pins, cutters for all
kinds of pastry, and sugar-sieves are kept. Above, at one foot four
inches from the dresser, are closets, one foot six inches in depth and
eight feet frontage, with three sliding doors. Within are divisions to
put away fancy ornamental pieces and useful articles and ingredients for
that tasty department; in this as well as in the other three rooms there
is an admirable coolness, absolutely necessary for the making of pastry,
and preserving it when completed. Any pastry or entremet which requires
to be kept dry, such as meringues, maccaroons, almond paste, &c., must
be kept in a closet in the kitchen.
(E.) HEAD COOK’S OFFICE AND PARLOUR. This room, nineteen feet long and
thirteen feet wide, is conveniently situated on the same floor with the
others, and very handy by its proximity to the kitchen; it is well
fitted up with a closet for superior preserves and all kinds of new
light kitchen utensils.
[Illustration: PESTLE AND MORTAR.]
[Illustration: FISH SLAB.]
(F.) PASSAGE. This space is three-and-thirty feet long and nine feet
wide, dividing the rooms above described from the kitchen, although a
passage, it is particularly useful; on the right from the second larder,
and immediately under the stairs, there is fixed a white marble slab,
four feet long and three feet three inches in width, surrounded with a
slate border, of three inches in height, the slab is used for keeping
fresh and cool all the fish brought in for use; at the extremity of the
slab, which is an inclined plane, there is an horizontal shower-pipe
supplied with iced water from a cistern above. On the opposite side, all
along the wall, there is an hour shelf, thirteen feet and a half long
and one foot six inches wide, divided by numbers showing the hour when
dishes are to be cooked, which is from five to eight at night.
Upon the same line on the left is another dresser, four feet and a half
long and three feet wide, to cool sauces and stock before they are
removed to the second larder to be put by the side of those already
cooled; a rule I would recommend, because the fermentation of hot sauces
or stock would affect those in the second larder if put there whilst
hot.
At the end of the passage on the right, and above the kitchen door, is a
ventilating screen four feet square; it is a simple frame with two
cross-pieces covered with canvas, and fixed horizontally above the door,
with hinges so as to move it up and down at will, which is done by means
of a cord nailed in the middle of the frame and passed through two
pullies fixed in the ceiling, and tied with hooks on the wall opposite;
you make use of the cord the same as for a Venetian blind, the only
difference is, that you keep moving it up and down all the time required
to diminish the heat of the kitchen. No one would suppose, without
seeing it perform, what surprising effect this simple contrivance
produces, as the ascending movement draws away the heat from the kitchen
into the passage, and introduces fresh air into it perfectly unexpected;
it is only on particular occasions, and in the heat of summer that it is
made use of, as the ventilation of this kitchen is everything that can
be wished for, it was more as a model for confined kitchens that I have
applied this extra-ventilating screen.
(G.) A small back yard, nine feet long and seven feet wide, separated
from the passage by a glass partition and doors, wherein are deposited
various things for kitchen use, and ice creams frozen.
(H.) In the small passage leading to the roasting kitchen there is a
lift worked by steam, to hoist coals to the sleeping-rooms; and a
gas-meter inclosed in a wooden box for the supply of the gas-stoves in
the principal kitchen.
(I.) Passage leading to and from the roasting kitchen.
(J.) The kitchen-maids’ dining-room, eight feet square, fitted with
drawers, tables, closets, &c.; the entrance in the passage above
mentioned.
(K.) ROASTING KITCHEN. On entering into this room you see in a direct
line the vegetable kitchen and the scullery. On the left there is a low
cast-iron French stove for boiling large joints and making stock which
has been previously boiled on a quick fire, and removed there to simmer
gently; this stove is two feet seven inches long, two feet nine inches
wide, and one foot nine inches high, and is purposely made low on
account of the great weight lifted on and off. In the centre is a grate,
one foot square, for charcoal. Contiguous to it is another cast-iron
stove, or hot plate, the waste fire of which heats the small oven for
gratins, soufflés, &c. (see opposite). It is five feet long by two feet
nine inches wide, and the same in height. At the end, on a line with the
fire-place, is the steam-closet, six feet high, four feet and a half
wide, and two feet deep, forming three shelves with the bottom to keep
the dishes very hot as well as the roasts; near it is the large roasting
fire-place, six feet and a half wide and five feet and a half high. The
grate is five feet wide and three feet high, and very shallow, giving a
great heat at a comparatively small expense; a boiler is at the back,
which holds one hundred gallons of water always hot, and amply
sufficient for all kitchen purposes; the salamander is also easily and
quickly heated at the same fire without interfering with the roasts,
having a place formed in the front of the grate purposely for its
reception.
[Illustration: CHARCOAL STOVE AND HOT PLATE.]
In front of the roasting fire-place is a closet-screen, six feet wide,
two feet deep, and six feet high, to keep all joints very warm. The plan
of this screen differs from the common ones; the back, fronting the
fire, is covered with iron sheeting; the front shuts in with sliding
doors, forming two separate closets, the top being only sixteen inches
high, and the lower four feet high, with two iron grated shelves; the
doors being kept shut, there is always a regular heat. What renders this
screen a perfect desideratum, are the two folding leaves at each end,
fastened with hinges and completely inclosing the fire, thereby
preventing the smoke escaping, and also the heat from being felt even
close to the screen; and the advantage of the whole is, that
notwithstanding the immense fire, presenting a surface of fifteen feet
square, no inconvenience results from it. (See Cut, page 622).
Lower down is a large cast-iron oven for pastry, six feet nine inches
high, four feet nine inches wide, divided into two parts, one above the
other, each of two feet opening, one foot nine inches high, and two feet
six inches deep, with grated shelves.
Joining the oven there is a French stove, three feet two inches long and
two feet four inches wide, with one grating, to boil delicate
vegetables.
Above, in the thickness of the wall, is a cistern two feet long, two
feet four inches deep, and one foot wide, to keep the large boiler
behind the roasting fire-grate constantly supplied with water.
Opposite is a sash window, by which roasts and vegetables for the
coffee-room are handed to the waiters; beneath the window is a closet
for plates and dishes, the top of which is of cast-iron and warmed by
steam, thus dishes are removed from one hot place to another until they
reach their destination; the length is four feet eleven inches, and two
feet deep, with a sheet-iron shelf inside.
[Illustration: ROASTING RANGE.]
On the right side of this closet is a marble mortar of twenty inches
diameter, surrounded with wood-work and forming a pedestal, the pestle
with a long handle passes through a ring fastened in the wall, four feet
above.
Near to the above is the iron rack to hang up all the spits and other
implements. It consists of two half rings, to each of which are attached
scroll hooks. The hook on the upper ring supports the wheel end of a
spit, and the lower hook holds the point.
Further on, next to the door leading to the principal kitchen, is a
dresser, eight feet long and two feet wide, to unspit the roasted joints
or other purposes.
(L.) VEGETABLE KITCHEN. At the end of the roasting kitchen, and only
divided by an arch twelve feet in span, you enter this room, fifteen
feet long and sixteen wide; in the centre is a deal table, nine feet
long and two feet two inches wide, with drawers.
On the left, upon a wide shelf, are three steam-boilers, two of them
square, to cook potatoes, and the other for steaming puddings, &c.; the
square ones might be taken as models, they are one foot five inches
square, and one foot high, divided into four parts, forming four
distinct compartments in one.
The round boiler is fifteen inches in diameter. The front of the shelf
has a groove under the tap of the steamers to let out the water produced
by the steam, which runs into the sink; a draining-board is next to the
steamers, where vegetables are deposited after they are washed.
Next is the vegetable sink, three feet nine inches long, two feet six
inches wide, and one foot eight inches deep, with two taps for hot and
cold water. Against the glass partition, on each side of the door which
leads to the scullery, are two dressers, six feet long and two feet four
inches wide, with four open divisions under each, for sundry articles of
kitchen utensils. On the right are two sinks, three feet six inches
long, two feet six inches wide, and one foot six inches deep, for
washing dishes, having two taps each, for hot and cold water.
Above is a plate-rack, eleven feet long and one foot deep, to dry plates
and dishes.
On the right side of the sinks is a delivery window with a closet
beneath, four feet long and two feet wide, serving as a dresser, from
which clean plates and dishes are sent to the coffee-room.
(M.) THE SCOURING SCULLERY AND STEAM BOILER. This room, on a level with
the vegetable kitchen, is thirteen feet long and seventeen feet wide; on
the left is a large dresser, or draining-board, with grooves, six feet
long and three feet and a half wide, to dry all the coppers after being
scoured; under it are large drawers. Above are two shelves the whole
length of the room for large pans and coppers.
Next to the dresser are two large sinks, three feet and a half long, two
and a half wide, and one foot and a half deep, with two taps for hot and
cold water.
Against the window, and close to the sink, is a thick scouring table,
three feet by two, with a box underneath for sand, &c.
On the right is the steam boiler, eight feet three inches long, six feet
wide, and five feet high, surrounded with bricks, and by which large
closets, bains maries, plates for delivery-windows and tables, are
heated, large coppers supplied with steam for cooking; also
dressing-rooms, baths, and closets in various parts of the house.
The appearance of these three rooms, each for a different purpose,
forms, as it were, only one room, well lighted, very cool, extremely
convenient, and without the least confusion.
(N.) BUTLER’S PANTRY. A large room, twenty-four feet long and seventeen
wide, including private room, with a fire-place, cupboards, sink, and
plenty of water; a large table is in the middle, where everything
belonging to his department is prepared.
(O.) BUTLER’S OFFICE. Well fitted up, and very convenient from its
proximity to the pantry and plate closet.
(P.) Iron closet for plate, fire-proof.
(Q.) A large passage leading out, and also to the back staircase, to the
coffee-room.
(R.) A lift, by which dinners are conveyed to the coffee-rooms either by
steam or by hands.
[Illustration: THE DINNER LIFT.]
(S.) The back staircase for servants.
(T.) PRINCIPAL KITCHEN. The size of this kitchen is twenty-eight feet
long and twenty-four wide; in the middle is an elm table, made on a plan
entirely original, having twelve irregular sides, and giving the utmost
facility for the various works of the kitchen, without any one
interfering with another. The principal length is twelve feet by seven
wide, and three inches thick. Under the edge of the table, in front, are
two sliding boards, two feet long and two inches and a half thick, which
are used for straining sauces, purées, &c.; as these sliding boards are
lower than the table they are particularly useful, and save an
additional width; below are two drawers, and at each end, in front, are
two little moveable copper buckets with water, handy for sponging off
any blood or mess left upon the board or table after the cutting of
poultry, game, or fish. In the same direction there are two columns
supporting the ceiling and passing through the table, round which, at a
convenient height, are copper cases lined with tin, in ten compartments,
each of which contains every ingredient and chopped herbs of the seasons
for flavouring dishes, such as salt, pepper, spices, sweet herbs, crumbs
and rasping of bread, eggs, chopped onions, &c.; the other contains
various sauces for fish dressed in the English style. These cases turn
round at will on castors fixed under it to the column, so that, without
moving from your place, you can get every ingredient you may require;
the diameters of the columns are one foot, and the cases for ingredients
project over three inches and a half; as columns are not always wanted
to support the ceiling of a kitchen, the cases might easily be
introduced on the table supported by a stand, turning in the same way
as, and similar in shape to a lamp.
In the middle of the table is a cast-iron steam closet, four feet one
inch long, two feet eleven inches wide, and two feet nine inches high,
with two sliding doors on each side, and a shelf inside for keeping
delicate entrées perfectly good for several hours, by means of two
different degrees of heat; above, five inches distant from the top, is a
grated iron shelf, all round upon which are placed middle-sized and
small stewpans, supported at each corner by little balusters, as it
projects beyond the closet it forms a cornice and gives it an elegant
appearance. The whole contrivance of this table is much more convenient
than might be imagined, by the number of useful objects a common table
is deprived of; I certainly could have had a table of large
dimensions[20] upon which great dinners might be laid out, as is
commonly done, but that was precisely what I wished to avoid, finding it
much more to the purpose, as soon as entrée dishes are ready, to put
them quickly into a warm place until wanted to be taken up, which is
done with regularity; every dish being numbered is placed upon the table
without confusion, and to all appearance as if the whole had just been
dressed, an advantage seldom if ever at the disposal of any chef de
cuisine, who generally finds it very difficult to dispose of dishes in a
fitting place to keep them in such a proper degree of heat as I obtain
with the steam closet. Many culinary artists who have seen it for the
first time question whether it is possible to dress a dinner of sixteen
entrées or more upon a table which is to all appearance inadequate to
the exigencies required; the only answer I can give is, that since I
have made use of it in very difficult circumstances, and with well known
artists, neither of them or those regularly employed in the kitchen of
the Reform Club have found anything contrary to good order, celerity,
and comfort in preparing everything wanted for a large dinner; therefore
I do not hesitate to recommend the above improvement in whatever kitchen
it may be, according to its several localities.
[Illustration: KITCHEN TABLE.]
On the right hand side of the table is a roasting fire-place,
principally used for game and poultry, on a plan entirely new, the size
is seven feet wide and five feet six inches high, the bars are
perpendicular and vertical, opening at one end, and supported upon
castors, which allows the cleaning of it with much more ease, and
affords access for the repairing of the boiler without pulling down any
of the works around it; at the back of the stove in front of the boiler
are thick Welsh lumps, by which hot water can be obtained twenty-four
hours after the fire is put out. The great advantage of this range is,
that from the smallest bird to the largest joint, even a baron of beef
can be cooked to perfection, although there is only four inches and a
half depth of coals. As the consumption of this article is much less in
a grate built on this principle, I expect that the old style of grates
will disappear. Another advantage is, that broiling can be done in a
very superior style, by means of a double gridiron suspended from an
extending bracket hooked over the top bar; for which see my Kitchen of
the Bachelor.
On the left, in the thickness of the wall, is a small cistern to supply
the boiler with water as it is drawn out hot on the right hand side.
A screen closet is placed before this fire, drawn on castors, seven feet
long, six feet high, and two feet wide, having two grated shelves for
dishes, and open to the fire, with sliding doors and flaps, the same as
the one described in the roasting kitchen.
Turning your back to the fire-place, on the right is a recess, ten feet
high, ten wide, and two and a half deep, forming an elliptic arch, in
which is fixed a dresser used for silver dishes, &c., previous to a
large dinner; underneath are four drawers for small kitchen utensils,
and above the dresser three shelves for tinned iron saucepans; in the
front of the shelves are suspended covers of various sizes and large
preserve-pans.
On the right, in another recess, six feet four inches high, four feet
three inches wide, and two feet and a half deep, there is also a
dresser, above it large dish covers.
In the recess of the same size on the left is fixed a low cast-iron
charcoal stove for boiling large fish, which is only used when large
fish are required to be stewed or boiled; when not in use for that
purpose it is covered with a thick board elevated one foot above, being
supported upon four strong feet in wood, thus forming a dresser upon
which to deposit any article previous to its being dressed at the
broiling or fish stoves; on each side are tin drainers for kitchen
spoons, &c., higher up are two rows of hooks for large dish covers; the
whole appearance of that side is pleasing to the eye, by the number of
various articles to be seen, its regularity, and the _brilliant
cleanliness of everything_. Facing the fire-place is a large cast iron
stove, heated with coals, twelve feet five inches long, and two feet ten
inches wide, divided into five parts, two of them are used for broiling
steaks, cotelettes, &c., and the others to boil and fry fish. On a
compass brass rod, and moveable, is fixed a fire-screen obliquely at the
end, to prevent the heat injuring the eyes, and at the same time acting
as a reflector in the interior of saucepans on the stove if required. At
the extremity of the stove is a bain marie, two feet eight inches
square, and seven inches deep, principally for keeping fish-sauces hot.
Next is a cast iron steam closet, four feet seven inches wide, two feet
two inches deep, divided into three parts, the two shelves are of iron,
two inches and a half thick, therein are deposited all the fish dressed
and waiting to be taken up.
Near it is another closet, five feet and a half long and two wide,
warmed also by steam, with sliding doors for china dishes and covers;
the top, which is on a level with the delivery window, is of cast iron
and heated by the same means, therefore every dish from the time they
are dressed up to the time they reach their destination, keeps moving
from one place to another in or upon places kept hot for that purpose.
[Illustration: GAS STOVES, ETC.]
In the corner next to delivery window is the desk for the clerk of the
kitchen, the size is four feet long and three feet wide, with a seat,
all the orders are sent from the dining-room by a wooden pipe of
communication, and after each dinner is served the bill is sent up in
the same way. Every dish is called for by the clerk at the hour ordered.
On his left are three voice conductors with bells communicating to all
parts of the club where culinary services are required. Turning to the
left is the large and principal French stove, fifteen feet three inches
long by three feet nine inches wide, beginning with a bain marie two
feet and a half square, warmed by steam, with two taps for hot and cold
water. This bain marie is for soups and sauces especially prepared for
the coffee-room. By the side is a column supporting the ceiling, round
it at a proper height are three rows of hooks for fryingpan covers,
spoons, forks, skimming ladles, &c. Along the stove at back is the
coping wall separating the two kitchens, on which are fixed two grated
iron shelves, upon which are placed a number of stewpans and moulds of
all sizes. Further on is situated the stoves where entrées, soups, &c.,
are prepared, being a grate for a charcoal fire in the centre, with one
of my new gas stoves upon each side, which afford the greatest comfort
ever introduced in any culinary arrangement; each stove is divided into
five compartments, (see Plate) each having a separate pipe and brass
cock, with a separate main pipe to each stove, which supplies sufficient
gas to burn the whole five compartments at once, or only one by not
turning the gas into any of the other compartments, or if all burning at
once the fire may be regulated to any height you may think proper by
means of the brass cocks, turning the gas either full or only partially
on. It possesses also the following advantages: you obtain the same heat
as from charcoal the moment it is lit, it is a fire that never requires
making up, is free from carbonic acid which is so pernicious, especially
in small kitchens, and creates neither dust or smell (except the gas
should neglectfully be not properly turned off), and by my last
improvement it is also now quite free from smoke. With the aid of my new
octagonal trivet[21] I can place nine stewpans over without the fear of
upsetting either, some only simmering and others boiling at the same
time, which is invaluable, as by the gentle simmering you are enabled to
extract all the fat from soups or sauces, assisting in the
clarification, and causing them to digest more freely. The gas stoves
also tend to greater economy, as they are not lit till the moment
wanted, then only the quantity required, and may be put out the moment
it is done with, I think it a great pity that they can only be fitted in
London and other large towns daily supplied with gas, but it is there it
is most required, as the kitchens are smaller than in country houses, no
heat whatever being created in the smallest kitchens by the use of gas
stoves.[22]
[Illustration: BAIN MARIE, SINK, HOT PLATE, AND RACK FOR SAUTE-PANS.]
Further on at the end of the stove and parallel with the bain marie
there is another, two feet six inches square with two taps for hot and
cold water, used for keeping sauces hot for a private dinner in the
house dinner room, being three different bain maries, one for fish
sauce, one for the coffee-room, and one for the private dinner. Next is
a slate sink two feet and a half long, one foot two inches wide, and
eleven inches deep, with two taps for hot and cold water used for
washing various kitchen utensils used at the charcoal stoves. Above the
sink, hot plate, and bain marie, is an iron rack nine feet long with
hooks to hang huge sauté-pans. Near it is a hot plate two feet six
inches square heated by steam, upon which are placed dishes prepared for
dinners and from thence removed to the house dinner-lift, which is drawn
up either by steam or hand machine. The sink trap bell is one of the
most simple and useful fixtures of a kitchen; I invented it after
twelve months of the greatest inconvenience arising from a complete
stoppage in many of the drains of the club, which not only created an
offensive effluvia but frequently caused the opening of the greater
portion of the basement of the house. Since the introduction of the trap
bell to the sinks throughout the kitchen department such offence has
entirely ceased. The bell is made of copper and is six inches long and
ten in circumference. It screws to the sink and has several holes
pierced through for the passage of the water only and the prevention of
anything else passing down. It will be seen that the plug is attached to
a rod, which is in its turn joined to a chain. By pulling the latter the
plug is removed and if it be necessary to keep it open a link of the
chain may be attached to a nail fastened in the wall. The expense is a
mere trifle, the comfort none can fully appreciate. I am happy to add
that my example has since been followed with similar success throughout
the club, and that it has been likewise copied in many noblemen’s and
club-house kitchens.
[Illustration: SINK TRAP BELL.]
* * * * *
I now beg leave to remark to my readers that if I have been a little
tedious or profuse in giving the exact measurement of the different
parts and every object of this kitchen by feet and inches, it was with
the view to be useful to those who have honoured me with their
subscription, and the public; I dare hope that my humble efforts will
have the effect of producing hereafter a reform in the art of building
and fitting up a kitchen which, without being of an immoderate size,
contains all that can be wished for as regards saving of time, comfort,
regularity, cleanliness, and economy. I am happy to have this
opportunity of acknowledging that without the great liberality of the
honorable members of the Reform Club, and the kindness of that
celebrated architect Mr. Barry, I could never have succeeded in
accomplishing the improvements so essential in a well regulated
establishment; I shall, therefore, remain always gratified for the
encouragement they never ceased to give me in confiding to my direction
this new system of building and fitting up a kitchen which is now in
active operation, not only for the economy of the Reform Club but to
serve as a guide to the amateurs of a good kitchen as well as of good
living.
END OF DESCRIPTION.
MY KITCHEN AT HOME.
Do not fancy, gentle reader, under this title to see a wonder of the
age, as regards grandeur and magnitude; but for comfort and convenience
you will find a correct miniature of the kitchen, the plan of which I
have just described, the room being only large enough for one or two
persons to work in instead of fourteen, and intended to supply parties
of from eight to ten instead of a hundred and above; whether of great or
little importance, everything, more or less, has its share of merit when
well contrived, and by the same rule, these two culinary departments,
although upon a very different scale, possess the same advantages.
In publishing my Plan of the Kitchen of the Reform Club, many persons
could not conceive my motive for so doing, saying that no private family
would ever be in want of so large a kitchen, and it would be madness to
go to such an expense, with which reason I fully concurred; but being
aware at the same time that all my new plans and discoveries might be
reduced to any scale, those just observations have induced me to make My
Kitchen at Home as complete in its way as the other, and to be able to
afford the facility to any man cook, if employed upon any extraordinary
occasions, to dress a first-rate dinner, as well from the Receipts
adapted for the Wealthy, as from those under the heading of My Kitchen
at Home. The completeness of the arrangements, although much smaller,
would at first become rather expensive, but would last almost for ever;
should they, however, be too expensive for some of my readers, a
reduction might be made in some of the fittings or apparatus, but still
keeping to the same style, and retaining the most useful and
serviceable; but, as any curtailing would disfigure this little model, I
will, for the convenience of some, present my readers with the plan of a
smaller one, under the denomination of the Bachelor’s Kitchen, which
unfortunate class are often individually deprived of any kind of real
homely comfort; and to be still more sociable, I have even added the
smallest of all kitchens, being that of the Cottage.
My intention, in giving the plans of several smaller kitchens, is to
prove what I have before advanced, that I could easily introduce any of
my plans, or apparatus, into kitchens of the smallest dimensions.
I now must politely beg of my readers to refer to page 633, where they
will see a correct plan of my small Kitchen at Home, under which title I
shelter myself from culinary criticisms, because every man is, or ought
to be, allowed to do anything he likes “at home.”
REFERENCE TO PLAN OF MY KITCHEN AT HOME.
THE KITCHEN.
A. The kitchen-grate, for roasting, constructed with perpendicular
bars, about two feet in height, and backed with Welsh lumps. The
opening of the grate has a slide, working up and down, to regulate
the draught.
B. A boiler behind the grate, from which a constant supply of hot
water is obtained.
C. The smoke-jack.
D. The screen and plate-warmer.
E. The dripping-pan.
F. The ash-pit, having an air drain attached, communicating with an
air brick at the exterior, to increase the draught required to turn
the smoke-jack; it would also prevent the chimney from smoking.
G. The oven, heated by a fire beneath.
H. The bain marie, heated by hot water circulating from the boiler.
I. The hot plate, heated by a fire. The coal would be kept
underneath.
K. A charcoal, or gas stove.
L. Thick kitchen table, with sliding shelves and rows of drawers.
M. Place for wet sponge to wipe the table.
NN. Seasoning box, and fish-sauce box, made to turn on centre
pivots.
O. Dresser with cupboards beneath, to put four entrée services of
china; above it the shelves and hooks for covers, baking-sheet, &c.
P. Iron rail, or shelf for coppers.
Q. Dresser for dishes, with drawers for small kitchen utensils, one
drawer for fat and a slide-board; over it a rail, with hooks for
the covers.
R. Iron rail similar to preceding.
S. Rack for the spits, as described in the Kitchen of the Reform
Club.
T. The scrubbing-board.
U. The hot water tub, with taps.
W. The cold water tub.
X. The draining-board, grooved and inclined towards the cold water
tub.
Y. The plate-rack; that part which is over the tub being perforated
with holes at the bottom. The other half of the bottom is inclined
in the direction of the holes.
Z. A cistern, in the front area.
THE LARDER.
A. A dresser with drawers beneath, to deposit sauces and cold meat.
B. Flour box.
C. Narrow upright closet for preserves and spice jars.
D. Marble sub for pastry, with ice drawers, and pickle drawers
beneath.
E. Mortar.
F. Safe for cooked meat.
G. Rail hung from the ceiling to hang up meat and game.
H. Boxes of different sizes in two tiers; they are made of slate
with wooden moveable fronts, and are for vegetables.
I. Iron rail above, for moulds and spices.
K. Potatoes.
[Illustration: PLAN OF MY KITCHEN AT HOME.]
REFERENCE TO PLANS.
THE BACHELOR’S KITCHEN.
A. The grate, with upright bars about eighteen inches in height,
and Welsh lumps at the back. Near the bottom of the grate are small
openings to assist the draught, which communicate with an air drain
from the exterior. The openings can be regulated by slides.
B. The boiler.
C. Reservoir to supply boiler, the pipe from which has a ball-cock.
D. The oven.
E. The hot closet. Below this is a tap to procure hot water from
the boiler.
F. The screen and plate-warmer.
G. The dripping-pan.
H. The smoke-jack.
I. A double gridiron. This is moveable, and hangs from a bracket
which clasps upon the top bar of the grate. It can be moved to any
distance from the bars, and can be turned without removing it from
its position on the bracket. For this purpose there is a
swivel-joint about the middle of the handle.
J. Swing bracket, to support a pan.
K. A charcoal or gas stove.
L. Rack for the spits, as described in the kitchen of the Reform
Club.
MM, M Iron shelves of open rails for the coppers, &c., about seven
feet from the floor.
N. The sink, furnished with taps for hot and cold water. It has the
bell trap, of which a drawing has already been given. Under the
sink the coal-box is kept.
O. The plate-rack, placed above the sink.
P. The dresser, with slide boards and drawers.
Q. Place for the sponge and water.
R. The spice-box.
S. The meat-safe. This is divided into two compartments, for raw
and cooked meat. It is placed outside the building, and runs upon
wheels and rails, being drawn forwards or pushed back. With this
object a chain is attached to the front, and there is a weight,
made to counterbalance the weight of the safe, exclusive of the
contents. There is a slide board near the foot of the dresser to
stand upon. The plan represents the safe in its position, when not
in use. It could readily be adapted to balconies in existing
buildings. It might be desirable to have the wire gauze double.
T. Dresser, with marble top, to make pastry upon. Beneath are the
vegetable boxes in two ranges; they are shown by dotted lines.
V. The mortar, which stands upon a block of wood, slightly hollowed
to receive it. When not in use it can be placed beneath the
dresser. There is an iron ring above, as in the other kitchens, for
the handle of the pestle to work through.
WW. Closets for preserves and other purposes.
X. Shelves.
THE COTTAGE KITCHEN.
A. The grate, as before.
B. The boiler.
C. Reservoir to supply boiler.
D. Oven.
E. The screen. This is a simple wooden rail covered with tin, and
can be used as a clothes-horse.
F. Swing bracket, to support a pan.
G. Bracket for roasting, and gridiron, before described.
H. Ash-pit, and air drain communicating with the exterior.
I. The sink, with taps for hot and cold water. The coal-box may be
placed underneath.
K. Plate-rack.
L. Water-butt.
M. The dresser, with drawers and slide boards.
N. Place for the sponge and water.
O. Salt and spice-box.
P. The meat-safe, placed at the upper part of the larder, which is
well ventilated by panes of perforated zinc in the window.
Q. Potatoes, beneath the stairs.
R. Plate shelves.
S. Shelves for the pans, below the plate shelves.
T. Copper.
[Illustration: THE BACHELOR’S KITCHEN.]
[Illustration: THE COTTAGE KITCHEN.]
DINNER PARTY AT HOME.
BILL OF FARE
FOR EIGHT PERSONS.
1 SOUP.
French Pot au Feu.
1 FISH.
3 Slices of Salmon en matelote.
2 REMOVES.
Braised Fowls with spring vegetables.
Leg of Mutton basted with devil’s tears.
Asparagus.
New Potatoes.
2 ENTREES.
Lamb Cutlets with asparagus, peas.
Salmi of Plovers with mushrooms.
2 ROASTS.
2 Ducklings.
4 Pigeons barded with vine leaves.
4 ENTREMETS.
Orange Jelly.
Green peas.
Omelette with fine herbs.
Gooseberry Tart with cream.
1 REMOVE.
Iced Cake with fruits.
Nothing but light wine is drunk at the first coarse, but at the second
my guests are at liberty to drink wines of any other description,
intercepting them with several hors-d’œuvres, which are small dishes
of French pickled olives and sardines, thin slices of Bologna sausage,
fillets of anchovies, ciboulettes, or very small green onions, radishes,
etc.; also a plain-dressed salade à la Française (for which see end of
the entrées, Kitchen at Home), fromage de Brie, Neufchatel, or even
Windsor cheese, when it can be procured. The coffee and dessert I
usually leave to the good taste and economy of my menagère.
[Illustration: MY TABLE AT HOME.
Une Réunion Gastronomique sans dames, est un parterre sans fleurs,
L’océan sans flots, une flotte maritime sans voiles.]
RECEIPTS.
PLAIN JOINTS ADAPTED TO THE TABLE OF THE WEALTHY AS WELL AS MY TABLE AT
HOME.
As hardly any dinner is properly served without a simple joint, which
may be deposited either on the table or sideboard, I have placed all
plain joints, as also the directions for choosing meat, at the
commencement of My Kitchen at Home, to which I shall beg to refer my
readers while making the bills of fare, or choosing different qualities
of meat.
OF THE CHOOSING AND ROASTING OF PLAIN JOINTS.
Here I must claim all the attention of my readers: many of the
profession will, I have no doubt, be surprised that I should dwell upon
a subject which appears of so little importance, saying that, from the
plain cook to the most professed, all know how to roast or boil a piece
of meat, but there I must beg their pardon; I will instance myself: for,
previously to my forming any intention of writing the present work, I
had not devoted the time necessary to become professionally acquainted
with it, always depending upon my roasting cook, who had constant
practice, myself only having the knowledge of whether or not properly
done. I have since not only studied it closely, but have made in many
respects improvements upon the old system, and many discoveries in that
branch which I am sure is the most beneficial to all classes of society
(remembering, as I have before stated, that three parts of the animal
food of this country is served either plain roasted or boiled). My first
study was the fire, which I soon perceived was too deep, consumed too
much coal, and required poking every half hour, thus sending dust and
dirt all over the joints, which were immediately basted to wash it off;
seeing plainly this inconvenience, I immediately remedied it by
inventing my new roasting fire-place (see page 622), by which means I
saved two hundred-weight of coals per day, besides the advantage of
never requiring to be poked, being narrow and perpendicular; the fire is
lighted with the greatest facility, and the front of the fire being
placed a foot back in the chimney-piece, throws the heat of the fire
direct upon the meat, and not out at the sides, as many persons know
from the old roasting ranges. I have many times placed ladies or
gentlemen, visiting the club, within two feet of the fire when six large
joints have been roasting, and they have been in perfect ignorance that
it was near them until upon opening the wing of the screen (see same
Plate) by surprise, they have appeared quite terrified to think they
were so near such an immense furnace. My next idea was to discontinue
basting, perhaps a bold attempt to change and upset at once the custom
of almost all nations and ages, but being so confident of its evil
effects and tediousness, I at once did away with it, and derived the
greatest benefit (for explanation, see remarks at the commencement of
the roasts in the Kitchen of the Wealthy), for the quality of meat in
England is, I may say, superior to any other nation; its moist soil
producing fine grass almost all the year round, which is the best food
for every description of cattle, whilst in some countries not so
favoured by nature they are obliged to have recourse to artificial food,
which fattens the animals, but decreases the flavour of the meat; and,
again, we must take into consideration the care and attention paid by
the farmers and graziers to improve the stock of those unfortunate
benefactors of the human family.
Every country is famous, more or less, for some produce, so is every
county; for instance, for the best beef we are indebted principally to
Scotland: the Highland ox, which if bred in Scotland, kept there until
four years old, and fed twelve months in Norfolk, cannot be surpassed;
those also that are killed in Scotland are likewise very commendable,
but the connoisseur would give the preference by far to those that had
undergone a change of atmosphere and pasturage. Norfolk also produces
excellent beef, as likewise does Herefordshire, which three sorts are
ranked as the best by the first judges.
The Brighton downs are noted for producing sheep of the first quality,
next to which may be ranked those of the Norfolk downs, they are rather
larger, more fleshy, and the meat sometimes a darker colour.
Herefordshire also produces some very excellent. The Scotch mutton is
also very good, and deservedly of high repute, but I rarely ever use it,
as it is killed in Scotland and hurriedly packed, which causes it not to
look so well, and frequently very much bruises it; but those of
Leicestershire are, in my opinion, quite the contrary, being coarse meat
and very fat; I consider it unworthy of making its appearance upon the
table of a man of wealth. When residing at Melton Mowbray I tried
several haunches, even after hanging a month in winter, and then roasted
to perfection, I could not find in them any flavour worthy of the taste
of an epicure; I consider it more as a useful nourishment than a
delicate meat.
The best Welsh mutton is brought direct from its native mountains, the
heath upon which it feeds gives a very rich flavour to the meat, which
is very dark without much fat; many are fed in some of the English
counties, they are very excellent and much fatter, but do not possess
the same wild flavour.
The beat veal to be obtained in the spring time of the year comes from
the west of England, being rather small and very white, but there is a
steady supply of good veal from Surrey and Essex throughout the year.
Although very fine veal may be obtained in this country, it is not to be
compared to the quality of veal we obtain in France; the veal of
Pontoise, a little town six miles from Paris, outrivals any; I would
venture to say that one pound of that veal would make a better stock
than double the quantity of the veal procured here: no one can account
for it, but such is the actual case; although there the quality of any
other description of animal food is deficient, we have to boast of the
excellent flavour, succulence, and excessive whiteness of our veal.
House lamb may be obtained throughout the whole year, but there is no
great demand for it before February; grass lamb makes its appearance now
much earlier than formerly: the quality much depends upon the winter
season; if a mild winter they may really be fed upon grass, but if the
contrary, they must be fed with prepared food, which increases their
size but diminishes their quality.
Pork for roasting is best when about six months old, Berkshire and
Hampshire producing the best. The size of a leg of pork should not
exceed more than seven pounds, nor much less than six. I do not know
why, but of late years pork has lost in a great measure its popularity,
and but seldom appears upon a nobleman’s table; it is in season from
October to about March.
No. 1. _Sirloin of Beef._ The royal honour which this bold and handsome
dish received from the merry monarch, who conferred upon it the honour
of knighthood, good Sir Loin, which title it has ever since retained
(previously only bearing the cognomen of loin), and most likely will
retain until the latest period: as a joint it claims precedence of all
others. In roasting, the fillet and fat below keep the upper part moist,
and when well roasted, such is the quantity of gravy, that after a few
slices have been cut it may be taken from it with a spoon.
Procure a fine square piece of sirloin weighing about twenty pounds
(which has been hung at least three weeks in winter, and eight or ten
days, if possible, in summer, observing that the older the meat is the
longer it will require keeping before cooking, and this remark applies
to all kinds of meat, especially to beef and mutton), trim nicely,
leaving the fat about an inch and a half in thickness over the fillet,
cut a slice slantwise from the flap, which turn under, fixing it with
skewers, thus giving the joint an oblong shape; with a sharp knife cut
through the sinew (running along the chine-bones) in four or five
places, or the meat would contract in roasting; make an incision in the
centre of the chine-bones, lengthwise, with a chopper, through which
pass a spit an inch wide and half an inch in thickness, bringing it out
at the flap, keeping the centre, and avoiding the fillet. When the joint
is larger it would be advisable to use a cradle-spit, which, however
like the other spit, has its inconveniences, one making a hole through
the meat, and the other pressing upon the fat, making it heavy; but in
any kind of joint, if not over-roasted, you will never perceive the mark
of the spit, as the cavity closes immediately upon the spit leaving it;
always choose a spit corresponding to the size of the joint. In a large
kitchen, where you require many joints roasting at one time, a
cradle-spit is a nuisance, and must be used only where it cannot be
avoided. Tie half a sheet of buttered foolscap paper upon each side of
the beef, and place to roast, keeping it two feet from a very clear
fire, let remain twenty minutes, then rub the top over with a piece of
butter placed in the bowl of a large wooden spoon (see page 396), and
place the beef back to the distance of three or four feet from the fire,
allowing it two hours and a half to three hours to roast; take it from
your spit, let remain a few minutes upon a dish until no more fat runs
from it, when place it upon the dish you intend serving it on
(previously taking out the piece of rump-bone affixed to the side to
facilitate the carving; but in choosing a piece of sirloin obtain it if
possible without any of that bone attached, or, at any rate, with but a
very small piece, as the joint looks so much handsomer without it),
pouring half a pint of good gravy (page 394) under; you will then
perceive my object in not basting meat, the fat and the skin will be of
a very light gold colour, which would have been quite the contrary if
continually basted. By placing the meat too near the fire the fat
quickly melts and falls into the dripping-pan, whilst by keeping it a
tolerable distance it cooks gradually, and as the meat revolves runs
over its surface, keeping it continually moist; and, again, by placing
it too near the fire it is liable to catch, causing many persons to
think that it has not been well basted; another evil in basting is, that
by continually pouring hot fat over you cause that beautiful light fat
attached to the joint to become heavy, and the gravy which invariably
falls from the joint with the fat remains upon it, burns, and causes it
to be very indigestible. It will also be easy to perceive in the habit
of pouring a quantity of hot fat over all joints, that if three or four
should be roasting together, one over the other, that one description of
meat becomes basted with the fat and gravy of several, whilst the mere
rubbing of a piece of butter over is not the least objectionable, as
nothing can fall upon other joints but a little butter or clear fat,
which cannot in the least interfere with the flavour of other meats, but
still I would advise that lamb, veal, poultry, and even game, be kept at
the top where there is beef, mutton, or pork roasting; this only applies
to large establishments.
The above description is applied for the Kitchen of the Wealthy, but I
must confess I do not object to a small piece of beef for my Kitchen at
Home; I should proceed precisely as above, only procuring a piece of not
more than eight, ten, or twelve pounds in weight; put a little water in
the dripping-pan, place the beef upon a spit papered as before, put it
very near the fire for a few minutes, rub over with butter, then put it
back at the distance of two feet; let roast, if weighing from ten to
twelve pounds, an hour and a half to two hours, depending much upon the
fire, of which any person may judge with or without practice; take it
up, dress upon your dish, then have the contents of your dripping-pan in
a basin, from which extract the whole of the fat, and pour the gravy
over the chine-bones, it will be very good, and save the trouble and
expense of making gravy; a couple of Yorkshire puddings, of two eggs
each, are very excellent cooked under the meat; before I had a
smoke-jack in my small kitchen I used to roast very well with a bit of
string. For the cottage kitchen, where there is no smoke-jack provided,
you may roast very well with a piece of worsted or string, by hooking it
to the meat, and then suspending it to a bracket fixed under the
mantel-piece, which will enable you to remove it to any distance you
think proper from the fire, making a tea-tray, at the distance of three
feet from the fire, act as a screen; the bottle-jacks are not bad, but
soon get out of repair.
No. 2. _Ribs of Beef._ A piece of from twenty to twenty-five pounds
makes a very pretty joint; trim neatly by sawing off the tips of the
chine-bones to make it stand flat, saw also about three inches from the
tips of the ribs, merely sawing through the bones, which detach from the
meat, leaving a flap, which fold under and fix with wooden skewers, not,
however, pulling it too tight, or it would cause the skin to crack in
roasting, which would produce a very bad effect; roast as directed for
the sirloin, from two hours and a half to three hours would be
sufficient, unless very thick. For a cold joint the ribs are better than
the sirloin, which last should always be eaten hot.
At home I often have a piece of ribs of beef weighing from six to eight
pounds, and roast by passing a very thin spit through, and placing it
down before a moderate fire; or, if in a small cottage, hang it up with
string as for the small sirloin; it would take from an hour and five
minutes to an hour and a quarter roasting, being perpendicular you may
baste it slightly, as it does not receive much nourishment from its own
fat.
No. 3. _Rump of Beef._ This is also a very delicate joint, but can only
be had to perfection in the winter months, as it requires hanging from
three weeks to a month before it is in readiness to roast to perfection;
procure one of from thirty to thirty-five pounds in weight, trim neatly,
leaving all the fat, for, taking so long to roast, should it be short of
fat it would go to table quite dry; roast it in a cradle-spit as
directed for sirloin, but keeping it still further from the fire, and
giving it from four hours and a half to five hours roasting, it might
also be roasted in paste as directed for haunch of venison (No. 222), or
wrap it up in several sheets of paper well buttered, and browned by
taking off the paste twenty minutes before removing from the fire.
This bold joint never makes its appearance in my Kitchen at Home, but I
have frequently used the piece of fillet attached to it, which weighs
from three to five pounds; I leave about an inch of fat upon it, pass a
small spit through, and roast from three quarters of an hour to an hour;
for gravy I proceed as for the sirloin. Cold potatoes, previously
boiled, put under it in the dripping-pan whilst roasting, and turned
occasionally, are very excellent.
No. 4. _Baron of Beef._ It is an old saying that two extremes often
meet, so with me, I leave my five pounds’ joint roasting and, like
Gulliver, make a step towards the empire of the giant. This is, indeed,
a colossal joint, which at first sight would put a modest fire out of
conceit, my smoke-jack out of order, and, above all, drive my few
guests’ appetites from their frugal stomachs; they not being initiated
in the grandeur or importance of a civic or aristocratic banquet would
consider it a mighty dish of vulgarity. But stay, friends, I would
observe grandeur and magnitude are far from being vulgar; to prove that
my assertion is correct I have the opinion of ages, for it is a dish
almost as old as England herself. I have before stated that Charles the
Second gave the title and importance to the sirloin, and I have no doubt
the baron owes its origin also to some such cause or great event, which
I will attempt to discover for the information of some of my readers
who, like myself, at present may be entirely ignorant of its origin,
which I feel assured will prove interesting.
A baron of beef is generally cut from a small ox, and includes the two
rumps and two sirloins with one of the rib bones on each side; it must
be trussed precisely as for a saddle of mutton; pass a spit, which of
course must not be too large, through the spinal-marrow-bone, then wrap
the beef up in paste as for a haunch of venison (No. 540), only a little
thicker, add also more paper, set it three feet from a brisk fire,
pouring fat over the paper to prevent its catching fire, twenty minutes
afterwards remove the spit two feet farther from the fire, inclose it
well with the fire-screen, and roast eight or nine hours, keeping it
turned by hand; half an hour before it is done take off the paste and
paper and give the beef a fine gold colour, when take up, dress in a
dish with gravy under and serve. The ancient style was to serve a
representation of St. George and the dragon, cut from vegetables, upon
the top, fresh salad also of every description used to be placed around,
but the whole was obliged to be removed at the commencement of carving.
Having promised my readers that I would make all possible inquiry
relating to the origin of the inviting joint called baron of beef, a
careful search into “Hone” and others, has not, I regret to say, been
attended with quite a favorable result, and the only information which I
can at present obtain is the legendary one that King John, after signing
Magna Charta at Runnymede, partook of a repast in the company of his
barons, consisting of the saddle and part of the ribs of beef roasted,
and that hence arose the saying “baron of beef.” Now this appears very
much like the traveller’s tale that had but one point in its favour,
namely, that no one present could possibly contradict it.
No. 5. _Round of Beef._ “Here,” says John Bull, with a good-humoured
countenance (standing near a table upon which was a round of beef being
prepared for dressing, clapping his hands upon his knees, and bending
with no little difficulty his colossal stomach), “do you know, my
excellent friend,” says he to me, “I fear you cannot cook that glorious
dish to perfection, for I have not yet forgotten your seven hours’
dressing of a leg of mutton (p. 193), so if you are not above receiving
a lesson I will give you one which will enable you to dress this
all-important dish to perfection; for I prize it as I do my own roast
beef of old England, and you must be aware that after the centuries of
practice I have had that I must understand some little about it. Well,
in the first place, the quality of the meat has a good deal to do with
it, of which you have given a fair description, I therefore pass it
over; but to proceed: it must be cut pretty freely from the knuckle and
placed in a brine-tub, cover well with salt, rub it well in, leave it
until the next day, when again rub it with the salt and brine created by
the gravy from the meat, rubbing well every other day until it has
remained a fortnight, that is, if of a good size, weighing from thirty
to thirty-five pounds, if larger or smaller, more or less time, which
must be left to your own good judgment, then take it out of the pickle,
let drain twenty minutes, take out and form it of a good shape, folding
the fat round, which fix with skewers, tying it round with a few yards
of very wide tape, tie it up in a thin cloth, and place it in a large
stock-pot with plenty of cold water, set upon a good fire and when
beginning to boil draw it to the corner, where let simmer five hours,
but two hours before it is done put in eight fine carrots, scraped and
cut into six or eight pieces, twelve turnips (peeled), and two suet
puddings, weighing from two and a half to three pounds each, these
articles would, perhaps, cause the water to cease boiling, if so, place
it again quite over the fire until it does boil; when done take out the
round, let drain ten minutes, take it from the cloth, detach the tape,
take out the skewers, replacing them as you take them out with long
silver skewers, dress upon a large hot-water dish, and pour over about a
quart of the liquor it was boiled in, cut a large slice from the top
about two inches and a half in thickness, dress the carrots and turnips
tastefully around and serve, with the puddings upon a separate dish,
sending one after the other, they will eat much lighter. When upon the
table it must be carved with a regular round-of-beef knife (very sharp)
in slices not exceeding the thickness of half-a-crown piece, assisting
each guest to a slice, also give one third fat, with a little of the
carrot and turnip, but never dig the underdone part from the centre to
oblige any one, for they that cannot eat from a joint well-cooked and
fairly carved are not worthy of having one set before them. Some persons
like them, when salted, to cut red quite through, I do not admire it,
but it is done by adding two ounces of sal prunella and half a pound of
saltpetre to every fifteen pounds of salt used in the pickling. When a
round of beef is very large some persons place a tin tube in the centre
to boil it, I do not think it a bad plan, as it causes it to cook more
regular.”
After receiving the above useful lesson, and being desirous of improving
my profession in all its branches, I remembered that amongst the number
of joints boiled to serve cold for large civic, agricultural, or
benevolent anniversary dinners, the round of beef was the most
prominent, and having seen it standing in dishes to get cold, with the
dish filled with the gravy that runs from it, particularly if a little
overdone, caused me to hit upon the following expedient to prevent the
meat losing so much of its succulence: fill two large tubs with cold
water, into which throw a few pounds of rough ice, and when the round is
done throw it, cloth and all, into one of the tubs of ice water, let
remain one minute, when take out and put it into the other tub, fill the
first tub again with water, and continue the above process for about
twenty minutes, then set it upon a dish, leaving the cloth on until the
next day, or until quite cold; when opened the fat will be as white as
possible, besides having saved the whole of the gravy. If no ice,
spring water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more
frequently changed; the same mode would be equally successful with the
aitch-bone.
The above is a joint which I have always considered too large for my
Kitchen at Home, but the aitch-bone or brisket is easily managed.
No. 6. _Aitch-bone of Beef._ A good-sized one would weigh from fifteen
to twenty pounds. Pickle it precisely as directed in the last, but one
week would be sufficient, boil nearly three hours, and serve with the
vegetables round as before, and a suet pudding separate; if for cold do
not take the tape from it until cold, trim the top, run a silver skewer
in at the extremity, and serve garnished with sprigs of very green fresh
parsley.
No. 7. _Brisket of Beef._ The whole brisket would require pickling for a
week, it must not be too fat; this being a long awkward joint may be cut
in two, and served upon separate occasions, boil about five hours and
serve as for the last two, with the vegetables around it; when upon
table it must be cut into thin slices, fat and lean in fair proportions.
The remains of a brisket of beef are excellent when cold.
No. 8. _Brisket of Beef à la Garrick._ This dish will, I am sure, be as
popular with the English public as the celebrated tragedian and comedian
whose name I have borrowed, even if he were now alive. Procure a nice
brisket of beef with as little fat as possible attached, if too much cut
a little of it off, and detach the whole of the bones from it, then make
a pickle with twenty pounds of salt, three quarters of a pound of
saltpetre, four cakes of sal prunella, two pounds of moist sugar, and
two cloves of garlic, with which rub the meat well, and leave it rather
more than a week, rubbing and turning it over every day; then drain and
cut it into two equal parts, place one upon the other, mixing the fat
and lean well, tie them together, and afterwards in a clean cloth, put
into a large stewpan or stock-pot containing six gallons of water, and
let simmer for eight hours, (but to ascertain correctly if done run a
trussing-needle into it, if tender it is quite done;), then take it out
and let it remain ten minutes upon a dish to drain, have ready a large
tin dish-cover, eighteen inches long, twelve wide, and deep in
proportion, place it upon a trivet and put the beef into it, opening the
cloth to lie smoothly in the cover, and with a fork arranging the meat,
fat and lean together, all over the bottom; you have a common piece of
board half an inch in thickness made to fit into the cover, place it
upon the meat with half a hundred weight upon it, and let remain in a
cold place until the next morning, then take off the weight and the
board, pull the cloth gently at each angle, and when loose turn it over
upon your dish, take the cloth off gently, garnish with sprigs of
parsley, fresh watercresses, and small radishes (if in season), cut in
thin strips crosswise. Nothing could be nicer than this for a breakfast
or luncheon, it will keep good a fortnight in winter, and as long as a
week in the summer by putting it in a cold place. I have frequently made
some in my Kitchen at Home, procuring a piece weighing ten or twelve
pounds, from the bones and trimmings of which I have also made very
excellent soup, which but of course must be fresh. The pickling will
answer to salt three or four other joints, as it will keep good nearly a
month in summer, and much longer in winter.
No. 9. _Haunch of Mutton._ The haunch is the most important joint from
the sheep, it requires but little trimming, and to be hung about three
weeks (season permitting). Saw about three inches from the knuckle,
detach all the skin from the loin, and put it upon a spit, commencing
running the spit in at the knuckle and bringing it out at the flap,
avoiding the fillet of the loin (a cradle spit may be used for this
joint,) set it down at the distance of two feet from a good solid fire,
and if weighing about twenty pounds it requires two hours and a half
roasting, ten minutes after it is down rub it over with butter, which
you have fixed in the bowl of a wooden spoon, it will form a kind of
froth over it, then place it back three feet from the fire, where let it
continue until done, if approved of, shake over a little flour from a
flour-dredge a quarter of an hour before taking it up, when done dress
upon your dish with a paper frill upon the knuckle and about half a pint
of gravy under. If the meat is rather fat the butter may be omitted.
No. 10. _Soyer’s Saddle-back of Mutton._ This is an entirely new joint
which I have introduced in this present month, April 1846. I have served
it but three times in our coffee-room, where it gave the greatest
satisfaction to those who had partaken of it, having dined from fifteen
to eighteen each, whilst two saddles, which would weigh six or eight
pounds more, would not dine more than seven or eight if badly carved, or
more than ten if properly carved in the usual manner. The cut is a
correct representation of the appearance of the new joint, which serves
to indicate the mode of carving. It is composed of the two loins and two
necks of a sheep trimmed into the form of a double saddle, without
interfering in the least with the legs and shoulders, which would cause
a serious loss to the butcher.
[Illustration]
Trim and dispose the saddle-back as follows: saw the centre bone of the
back as far as the saddle, dividing it but not cutting the meat or
making a hole through, then with a small saw divide each joint, so as to
admit of the necks being cut into chops in carving, when well separated
take a piece of a good length from the ends of the rib bones, trim the
flaps, turn them under, fixing them with skewers and string, giving the
proper shape as the design represents, pull the skin from the whole
back, melt two ounces of butter, which rub over with a paste brush to
give a good appearance and let remain five or six days previous to
roasting, weather permitting. To roast, pass a long saddle-of-mutton
spit through the spinal-marrow-bone, bringing it out at the ends of the
necks, fix it to a larger spit, and place at a good distance from a
moderate fire for nearly three hours; avoid basting, but a quarter of an
hour before taking up shake a little flour mixed with some finely-ground
rice over, which is very good for a little change. This joint looks very
noble, and does not appear too large when roasted. For a small dinner a
saddleback of Welsh mutton or lamb will make a very fine remove. To
carve, commence by passing your knife down the back where nothing but
the meat and skin holds it together, and from thence crosswise to the
flap, serving a cutlet and a slice between to each person, continuing
the same way through the saddle; you will thus carve the meat according
to the grain, and produce fresh hot gravy for each person as you proceed
carving. Should any remain, it is fit either to be sent cold to table or
dressed otherwise advantageously.
No. 11. _Saddle of Mutton._ Procure a fine saddle of mutton, about
fourteen pounds in weight, that has been kept some time, take off the
skin with a knife, and skewer the flaps under, run a lark-spit through
the spinal marrow-bone, which spit affix to a larger one, and place down
to roast as directed for the saddle-back; it will require about an hour
and three quarters roasting, and must be carved as in the last.
No. 12. _Leg of Mutton._ A leg weighing eight pounds would take about an
hour and a half roasting; run the spit in under the thigh-bone and bring
it out at the knuckle, roast it as described for the haunch, and send to
table with a frill upon the knuckle.
When I have a leg of mutton to roast in my kitchen I make a small
incision at the knuckle two or three days before roasting, in which I
put two or three cloves of garlic, it will give the mutton a fine and
peculiar flavour, not at all resembling the strong, and to some
objectionable, flavour of garlic. I frequently serve it with haricot
beans under it, dressed as directed (No. 1094).
No. 13. _Shoulder of Mutton_ of seven or eight pounds weight will
require about one hour roasting; run the spit in at the flap and bring
it out at the knuckle, observe the same directions as before, not
basting, but merely rubbing it over with the butter.
No. 14. _Loin of Mutton._ A loin weighing six pounds would require an
hour to roast; take off all the skin with a knife, and separate the
joints with a chopper, not cutting through the fillet; run a lark-spit
through from one extremity to the other and affix it to a larger spit,
observe the same directions in roasting as for the haunch. This is a
very favorite dish of mine at home, where I in general joint it with a
meat-saw so as to enable me to carve it into thin slanting chops, which
look so much more inviting in the plate than those huge pieces which are
generally carved.
No. 15. _Neck of Mutton._ This I call a very recherché little joint when
well kept; it must be nicely trimmed, sawing through the bones at the
tips of the ribs, which detach from the meat, folding the flap over; saw
off the chine-bone, and with a knife detach the remainder of the bone
from the fillet, detach the skin from the upper part, fix the flap under
with a couple of skewers, run a long flat iron skewer through the
centre, from one extremity to the other, fix it to a larger spit, roast
(if weighing five pounds) nearly three quarters of an hour, observing
the same directions as before, carve it crosswise, cutting it in
cotelettes, one of which, with a bone, serve to each guest.
No. 16. _Boiled Leg of Mutton._ Cut the knuckle from a leg of mutton
which has been hung some time, put into an oval braising-pan well
covered with cold water, in which you have put two ounces of salt, place
it upon a sharp fire until boiling, when skim well, and place it upon
the corner of the fire to simmer about two hours, that is, if the leg
does not exceed more than nine pounds in weight; about half an hour
before it is done add a dozen turnips, peeled and cut into quarters,
when done take it up, dress upon a dish with the turnips around, place a
frill upon the knuckle, pour nearly half a pint of the liquor it was
boiled in over, and serve with caper sauce (No. 67) in a boat. Observe,
in boiling any description of meat, fast boiling would not cook it any
quicker, but cause it to eat very hard and bad.
At home I have tried to cook them by placing them in the water whilst
boiling, and when again beginning to boil drawing it to the corner of
the fire; it certainly saves a little time, but does not eat so tender
as when put into cold water. I generally there mash turnips and serve
them separately (I do not like them plain and watery, although I
consider they must be much more wholesome). Place the turnips when
boiled into a stewpan, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto
of pepper, two ounces of butter with which you have mixed half a
tablespoonful of flour, and four tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, mix
all well together over the fire with a wooden spoon. For caper sauce I
mix a tablespoonful of flour with an ounce of butter and put it in a
smallish stewpan, add half a pint of the liquor the mutton was boiled
in, stir over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when add a
quarter of a tablespoonful of salt, quarter that quantity of pepper, a
little grated nutmeg, and a good spoonful of drained pickled capers;
then add another ounce of butter, shake round over the fire, and when
melted it is finished. I sometimes also add a spoonful of liaison, it
gives it a rich colour.
No. 17. _Shoulder of Mutton (boiled)_. Choose a very tender one,
weighing about seven pounds, cut off the knuckle, and boil it as above;
one hour and a half would be sufficient.
WELSH MUTTON.--No. 18. _Saddle-back of Welsh Mutton._ Trim and truss it
as South Down mutton, it will take one hour less roasting; you may
butter twice over.
No. 19. _Haunch._ If weighing twelve pounds roast it an hour and a half
as directed (in proportion) for the haunch of mutton, but if deficient
of fat rub it over with butter three or four times instead of once.
No. 20. _Saddle._ If weighing eight pounds roast it an hour and a
quarter.
No. 21. _Leg._ If weighing five pounds roast it an hour.
No. 22. _Loin._ If weighing four pounds roast three quarters of an hour.
No. 23. _Neck._ If weighing three pounds roast it half an hour.
No. 24. _Shoulder._ If weighing four pounds roast it three quarters of
an hour. Loin and neck about the same time.
No. 25. _Lamb_ is divided into but three principal joints, being the
fore-quarter, haunch, and saddle, two joints may be made of each by
separating the shoulder from the ribs, the leg from the loin, or
dividing the saddle, but they are usually roasted together.
To trim the fore-quarter saw off the chine-bone, and break the rib-bones
down the centre, pass two iron skewers from the breast to the back, and
a lark-spit through lengthwise, fix it upon a larger spit, cover a sheet
of buttered paper over the top, and roast an hour and a quarter before a
good fire, rubbing butter over it, it would be a light gold colour;
should the shoulder have been taken off it will only require three
quarters of an hour to roast, serve in a dish with a little gravy under,
and mint sauce in a boat.
The haunch must be trimmed by cutting off the shank-bone, place it upon
a small spit by running the spit in at the extremity of the loin,
passing over the thigh-bone, and bringing it out at the knuckle, which
tie to the spit with a piece of string; place a sheet of buttered paper
over, and roast an hour and three-quarters before a solid fire; place a
frill upon the knuckle, and serve as before. The leg only would require
one hour roasting.
For the saddle, skewer the flaps underneath, curling each one round, run
a lark-spit through the spinal marrow-bone, and fix it to a larger spit;
place a sheet of buttered paper over, and roast an hour and a half
before a good fire, dress upon your dish and serve as for the
fore-quarter.
No. 26. _Fillet of Veal._ Choose it of the best quality, as described at
the commencement of this series. Procure a leg, saw off the knuckle,
take out the bone in the centre of the fillet, and fill up the cavity
with some stuffing made as directed (No. 127), fold the udder and flap
round, which fix with three skewers; place half a sheet of buttered
foolscap paper top and bottom, which tie over and over with plenty of
string, run a spit through, fixing the fillet with a hold-fast, set down
to roast, placing it rather close to the fire ten minutes, rub well over
with butter, then place it at least two feet and a half from the fire,
to roast very slowly, giving it a fine gold colour; a fillet weighing
sixteen pounds would require three hours roasting, when done, take it
up, detach all the string and paper, trim the top and set it upon your
dish; have a pint of melted butter in a stewpan upon the fire, to which,
when boiling, add four spoonfuls of Harvey sauce, and two of mushroom
catsup, mix well, and pour round the fillet; have also boiled nicely an
ox-tongue, which skin and trim, dress upon a dish surrounded with greens
or cabbage nicely boiled, and serve as an accompaniment to the fillet.
In my small kitchen I, however, content myself with a nice piece of
streaked bacon, of about two pounds in weight, boiled and served
surrounded with greens or turnip-tops if in season. For the different
modes of dressing the remainder, see the Entrées, Kitchen at Home.
No. 27. _Loin of Veal._ Procure one with plenty of fat and a nice kidney
in it, cut off the chump, take away the rib-bone at the other extremity,
and fasten the flap over the kidney with a skewer, run a spit through
lengthwise (not too thick a one), commencing at the thickest end, and
fixing it at the other extremity with a hold-fast, tie it up in a sheet
of oiled paper; if weighing fourteen pounds it will require two hours
and a quarter to roast, serve with sauce and tongue, or bacon, as in the
last, upon a separate dish. At home I usually content myself with the
chump, as taken from the loin, either roasting or boiling it, should it
weigh four pounds it would require an hour roasting, or an hour and a
quarter boiling; if roasted, serve with bacon and the same sauce as for
the fillet, but if boiled I make half the quantity of sauce as for
boiled leg of mutton, but omitting the capers, and adding a spoonful of
roughly-chopped, fresh, green parsley. Dress the remains the second day
as directed in the Entrées, Kitchen at Home.
No. 28. _Breast of Veal._ Procure a nice breast of veal, which trim as
directed (No. 455), stuff the interior with a long roll of stuffing (No.
127), roll the flaps over and sew it up with a trussing-needle and
string, place it upon a spit, running it through lengthwise, and roast
one hour and a quarter as directed for the loin, serve with the same
sauce, and bacon and greens separate. The breast of veal stewed is also
good, but for the details I must refer to the Removes in the first part
of this work. At home I stew them, and add a few heads of celery with
the stock it is stewing in, which I afterwards dress round the veal,
and make a little white sauce similar to No. 7, with some of the liquor
it was stewed in, or thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour,
and add a gill of milk.
No. 29. _Shoulder of Veal._ A shoulder weighing fourteen pounds would
require two hours and a half to roast, and three hours to boil, serve
with a parsley and butter sauce if boiled, or if roasted, with sauce as
for the fillet; bacon and greens must be served with it separate,
whichever way it is dressed.
Should you boil the shoulder add a few vegetables, and you may reduce
the stock it was boiled in to a glaze (by continual boiling), which will
be very serviceable in dressing the remains upon following days; by
boiling a calf’s foot with the shoulder you would produce a much greater
quantity of glaze.
No. 30. _Neck of Veal_ is usually served as the shoulder, either roasted
or stewed, with vegetables, but I have described a number of methods of
dressing it in the Removes of the first department of this work.
No. 31. _Knuckle of Veal_ is a very favorite dish of mine; I procure two
of them, which I saw into three pieces each, and put into a stewpan with
a piece of streaked bacon two pounds in weight, four onions, a carrot,
two turnips, and six peppercorns, place over the fire, and when boiling
add a little salt, skim well, and place at the corner to simmer gently
for two hours, take up, dress them in your dish surrounded with the
vegetables and bacon, and serve with parsley and butter over; very good
soup may be made from the stock it was boiled in if required, or if not,
into glaze, which put by until wanted.
No. 32. _Leg of Pork._ Choose the pork as described at the commencement
of this series, if a leg, one weighing about seven pounds, cut an
incision in the knuckle near the thigh, into which put a quantity of
sage and onions, previously passed in butter, sew the incision up with
packthread, score the rind of the pork in lines across, half an inch
apart, place upon a spit, running it in just under the rind, and
bringing it out at the knuckle. If stuffed the day previous to roasting
it would improve its flavour; roast, if weighing seven pounds, about two
hours and a half, and serve with apple sauce in a boat.
I often roast a small leg of pork at home as directed above, and make
apple sauce thus: peel and slice six nice apples, which put into a
stewpan, with a tablespoonful of currants well washed and picked, and
one of brown sugar, a little of the rind of a lemon chopped very fine,
six spoonfuls of water, and a very small piece of cinnamon, boil until
in purée, then stir in a handful of bread-crumbs, and serve hot. When,
however, I am in a great hurry I merely put apples, water, sugar, and a
little rind of lemon. Other joints of pork are roasted in the same
manner, but do not require stuffing, a loin weighing six pounds
requiring two hours and a quarter to roast; a neck of the same size will
take about the same time, as will the spare-ribs, which is nothing but
the necks of larger pork with the blade-bone cut out and the fat taken
off.
No. 33. _Salt Pork._ Pork is salted in the same manner as described for
beef, omitting the saltpetre, but of course not requiring so long a
time; a leg weighing seven pounds would be well salted in a week, as
also would a hand and spring weighing about ten pounds, and either would
require two hours boiling, putting them in a stewpan with cold water,
and serving with carrots and greens upon a separate dish. With the leg
it is also customary to serve a pease pudding made thus: tie about a
pint of split peas loosely in a pudding-cloth, throw them into boiling
water to stew until tender, then take them up, turn from the cloth upon
the back of a hair sieve, through which force them with a wooden spoon,
put them into a basin, add two ounces of butter, season with pepper and
salt, mix well with six whole eggs, tie up tightly in a pudding-cloth,
boil an hour and serve very hot.
A pig’s head is also excellent pickled. Divide the head in two, take out
the brains and detach the jaw-bones, pickle it twelve days, rubbing it
every day, (the brine in which you have pickled one joint, with the
addition of more salt, would pickle several and keep good for upwards of
a month;) when ready, boil it nearly three hours, and serve with greens
round as an accompaniment to veal or poultry. To pickle it red, rub it
well with twelve pounds of salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, two
cakes of sal prunella, and half a pound of coarse sugar, rub it every
day, allowing it to remain fifteen days in pickle, after which it maybe
hung, and dried or smoked previously to dressing.
MADE DISHES THAT CAN BE EASILY PREPARED AT A MODERATE EXPENSE IN MY
KITCHEN AT HOME.
Preaching economy which has been practised from age to age in all
domestic works is not here my intention, as my readers must quickly
perceive that the simplicity of my receipts excludes the seal of
extravagance, having simplified even dishes of some importance, which
daily give and have given the greatest satisfaction at the Reform Club.
The regular courses of a cuisine bourgeoise, or domestic cookery, will
be found extremely easy to execute in my Kitchen at Home, and numbers of
them done to perfection in the Kitchen (or sanctorum) of a Bachelor, as
well as in the small Cottage Kitchen.
No. 34. _French Pot-au-feu._ Out of this earthen pot comes the favorite
soup and bouilli, which have been everlastingly famed as having been the
support of several generations of all classes of society in France; from
the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its
excellence and worth. In fact this soup and bouilli are to the French
what the roast beef and plum-pudding are on a Sunday to the English. No
dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to
be made without the pot-au-feu. Generally every quarter of a century
makes a total alteration in fashions and politics, need I say also in
cookery, which must be approximated not only to the fashion but more
strongly so to the political world, humbly bending its indispensable
services to the whims and wishes of crowned heads, which invariably lead
the multitude; for example, the bills of fare of the sumptuous dinners
which used to grace the tables of Louis the Fourteenth, Sixteenth, and
Eighteenth, of France, were all very different to each other, and none
of them were ever copied to grace the sumptuous and luxurious tables of
the Empire; even the very features of them having undergone an entire
change in our own days; every culinary invention taking its title and
origin from some celebrated personage or extraordinary event, every
innovation in cookery, like a change in fashion, causing us to forget
those dishes which they have superseded; I have no doubt but that, if
some correct historian could collect the bills of fare of dinners from
various centuries and nations which crowned heads have partaken of, he
might write a very interesting volume under the title of History of
Cookery, in which we should be able closely to trace the original
history of different countries.[23] Nothing can stamp the anniversary of
any great event so well as a sumptuous banquet: peace, war, politics,
and even religion, have always been the cause of extraordinary and
sometimes monstrous gastronomic meetings; for a proof of which my
readers will find at the end of this work a correct bill of fare (found
in the Tower of London,) of a dinner given by the Earl of Warwick at the
installation of an Archbishop of York, in the year 1470. In time of war
artists are engaged sketching on immense canvasses the horrors and
disasters of a battle, while in peace they sketch the anniversary
banquets for the victorious, in honour of the event, (reminding us of
the calm after a storm;) and we may sincerely hope, for the credit of
humanity at large, that a disastrous battle may have its hundreds of
anniversary banquets without a fresh combat. But to return to the humble
but indispensable science of cookery. Everything seems to prove to us
that it has always performed an important part in political events, and
has been exposed to as many alterations; still, amongst so many
changes, it is with a national pleasure that I find, amongst the
heap of frivolous culinary ruins, an old favorite of our great
great-grandfathers still remaining ours, having boldly passed through
every storm, it has for ever established its culinary power upon our
changeable soil. The brown cheek of this demi-immortal is daily seen
ornamenting the firesides of millions, and merely acquaints the children
the first thing in the morning that something good is in preparation for
their dinner: this mighty vessel is called in French _pot-au-feu_,[24]
in which is made that excellent and wholesome luxury which for centuries
has been the principal nourishment and support of the middling and
poorer classes of France at a very trifling expense. It is not upon the
tables of the wealthy that the best of this national soup is to be
obtained, but upon the right or left side of the entrance to his noble
mansion, in a square, oval, or octagonal room, commonly called _la Loge
du Portier_, or the Porter’s Lodge; as nearly every porter has his
portière, that is, a wife who answers the door (whilst her husband is
doing the frottage, or polishing the floor of the apartment), while
pulling the string or wire which loosens the lock to let people in with
one hand, she skims the _pot-au-feu_ with the other; should she be
fortunate enough to possess two eyes she would keep one upon her
_pot-au-feu_, and the other upon the individual, who had, probably, come
only to make inquiry; but unfortunately for La Mère Binard (whom I shall
have the pleasure of introducing to my readers as a gastronomic wonder
in her simple style), she had but one eye, which she almost entirely
devoted to the ebullition of her _pot-au-feu_; having been portière
there two-and-thirty years, she knew most of the people in the habit of
calling by their voice, and used to answer them even without turning her
shaking head. But what brought her domestic cookery in such high repute,
that she was not to be excelled by any portière of Paris, was, that one
day her master, M. le Comte de C**** (who was a good gentleman and great
epicure), came home from a long ride while she was performing her humble
occupation of pouring the soup into the tureen; a triple knock came to
the door, which immediately opened as by electricity, and in walked her
beloved master, who came to the door of the lodge to pay his duties to
his old and faithful servant, whilst an exhalation of the most delicious
fragrance perfumed the small apartment from the boiling consommé which
attracted his scientific attention; after a short inquiry he discovered
in an old brown pan the gloriously smoking hot consommé, and seizing
with avidity a spoon by the side, tasted (much to the astonishment of La
Mère Binard) several spoonfuls, pronouncing the first delicious, the
second excellent, the third delightful, in fact, magnificent. “Can you
spare any of it?” he said, addressing the worthy dame. “Yes,” said she,
“but I am sure Monseigneur does not mean it.” “But indeed I do,” replied
he; “and if I had been aware I could have obtained such a treasure, I
would have had nothing else for my dinner to-day; and if you were not so
far advanced in years I would not object to make you a _cordon bleu_.”
The earthen pan was immediately conveyed up stairs to the dining-room,
and deposited upon the table of his seigneurie, where an excellent
dinner was waiting for himself and friends; but the immortal
_pot-au-feu_, resting on a superb silver tray, with its handle half
broken off, made all the homage of the dinner, to the great annoyance of
the cook, who had thus sacrificed the art he had displayed in dressing a
most recherché dinner, and felt much offended at the whim of his wealthy
master, who had neglected his dinner to take pot-luck with his porter’s
wife.
By a friendly introduction to La Mère Binard, I, with a great deal of
supplication, obtained from her the following valuable receipt, having
been obliged first to listen to the constant repetition of the above
anecdote before she could explain it to me.--“I generally choose,” says
she, “a bit of the _gite à la noix_, part of the aitch-bone, a piece of
the rump, or a slice from the thickest part of the leg, weighing from
four to five pounds, with sufficient fat attached, or adding a small
piece; then I put it into the earthen pan, and fill with cold water till
within two inches of the rim, being about four quarts; then I set it by
my wood fire until beginning to get hot, when a thin scum will arise by
degrees, which I carefully take off and throw away; then I add half a
pound of beef liver, and a tablespoonful and a half of salt, it will
produce more scum, which also carefully remove; have ready prepared,
well washed and clean, two middling-sized carrots cut in halves, then in
four, two small pieces of parsnip, four turnips, two onions, with two
cloves stuck in each, eight young leeks, or two old ones, a head of
celery cut into pieces three inches in length, tie the leeks and celery
into a bunch, and put altogether into the _pot-au-feu_, set it alone
nearer the fire until it commences boiling, skim again, draw it a little
farther to the corner of the fire, put a wooden skimmer across the pot,
upon which rest the lid to prevent its boiling fast, (which would
entirely spoil the soup, the meat becoming very hard and the soup thick
and muddy).” “You quite astonish me, Mrs. Binard,” said I. “Oh,” says
she, “I have had so many years of experience, and I know it to be the
case.” “Yes,” said I, “my dear lady, I do not in the least doubt your
correctness.” “Well, then, one hour afterwards I add a little cold water
to keep it to the same quantity, put in a burnt onion to give it a
colour, and let simmer four hours, sometimes five, depending if the meat
is cut very thick; then I cut some large thin slices of bread, which I
lay at the bottom of the tureen, then I take off the greater part of the
fat, cut the bunch of celery and leeks open, lay them upon the slices of
bread, with one of the carrots, two turnips, and the pieces of parsnip;
take half of the broth with a ladle, which pour into the tureen, (there
being quite enough soup for six of us, myself, Binard, my daughter and
her husband, and the two boys); then I take out carefully the meat,
which I lay upon the dish, with half of the liver at the side, the other
half, when cold, I give to Minette (her favorite cat), lay the remainder
of the vegetables round, with some fine sprigs of fresh parsley; by that
time the bread is (trempé) moistened; set both upon the table at once,
keeping the meat covered until we have done with the soup: that is the
way we dine upon a Sunday. The next day, with the remainder of the broth
I make vermicelli or rice soup, or the same with bread in it, and
fricassée the remainder of the beef in various ways. When my daughter
was ill I used to put a calf’s foot in the _pot-au-feu_ with the beef;
it made the soup very strengthening and did her much good.” “Will you be
kind enough,” said I, “to tell me where you get these burnt onions, for
I perceive without it your soup would be quite white.” “Bless you, sir!”
she replied, “you may get six for two sous at any of the grocers, or you
can burn them yourself in the oven, or by the fireside, gently turning
them now and then until they are quite black, but not burnt to a cinder,
or it would spoil the flavour of the soup.” I then took leave of her,
returning thanks for her kindness, and put down the receipt as she gave
it me during her long explanation, as follows:
RECEIPT. Put in the _pot-au-feu_ six pounds of beef, four quarts of
water, set near the fire; skim, when nearly boiling add a spoonful and a
half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight
young or two old leeks, one head of celery, two onions and one burnt,
with a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip; skim again and let simmer
four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and then; take off
part of the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, lay half the
vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat separate with
the vegetables around. Since I have been in England I have broken my
precious earthen pot; I have, however, made some very good soups at home
in a black saucepan or stewpan, but must admit not quite so delicate and
perfect as in the identical _pot de terre_.
SOUPS.--No. 35. _Julienne Soup._ Put about six pounds of knuckle of veal
in a stewpan cut in four pieces, with about half a pound of streaked
bacon; put a piece of butter at the bottom of the stewpan, and about
half a pint of water, place it over a sharp fire, moving it round
occasionally with a wooden spoon until the bottom of the stewpan is
covered with a white glaze, when add about a gallon of water, two ounces
of salt, three onions (with two cloves in each), two turnips, one
carrot, a head of celery, leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and
bay-leaf; when boiling put in two burnt onions (see _Pot-au-feu_) to
colour it, and stand it at the corner of the fire to simmer for two
hours, keeping it well skimmed, then pass the broth through a hair sieve
into a stewpan; you have previously cut two middling-sized carrots, two
turnips, an onion, a leek, and a little celery into very thin strips an
inch long; put them in another stewpan with two ounces of butter and a
teaspoonful of powdered sugar; place it upon a sharp fire, tossing them
over occasionally until well fried and looking transparent, then put
them into the broth with the half a young cos lettuce, and a little
tarragon and chervil, place it at the corner of your fire, and when it
boils skim off all the butter: let it simmer until the vegetables are
perfectly tender, when pour it into your tureen; serve the veal and
piece of bacon upon the dish with melted butter and chopped parsley
over. Beef may also be used for the above, and the vegetables cut in any
of the shapes directed for the soups in the other department of this
work; if you only require a smaller quantity, take only three pounds, or
diminish all in proportion.
No. 36. _Mutton Broth._ Any description of trimmings of mutton may be
used for broth, but the scrag end of the neck is usually chosen. Put
about two scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the bone),
with three onions (a couple of cloves stuck in each), three turnips, one
carrot, and a bunch containing a leek, a head of celery, and a few
sprigs of thyme and parsley, fill up the stewpan with rather more than a
gallon of water; when boiling skim it, and place it at the corner of the
stove, where let it simmer for three hours, then cut a small carrot, two
turnips, an onion, and a piece of leek and celery into very small square
pieces, put them into a stewpan with a wineglassful of pearl barley,
pass the broth through a hair sieve over them, and boil at the corner of
the fire until the barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the meat
may be trimmed into neat pieces, and served in the broth, or separately
with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce.
No. 37. _Irish Mutton Broth._ This broth is made similar to the last,
adding ten or twelve mealy potatoes cut in large dice, which by boiling
to a purée thickens the broth; just before serving throw in twenty heads
of parsley, at the same time put in a few flowers of marigolds, which
really give a pleasing flavour; it is then ready to serve.
At home I make clear soup of the trimmings of any meat, either beef,
veal, mutton, or lamb, or the trimmings of two or three different sorts
of meat, in the same manner as directed for Julienne soup.
No. 38. _A very simple Receipt for the Scotch Cock-a-Leeky._ This is a
very favorite national soup with the Scotch, which by rights ought to
have been the pride of Welsh cookery, ranking as high in the estimation
of millions as their celebrated and generally appreciated rarebit,
commonly called a Welsh rabbit.
Take six or eight pounds of leg of beef (depending upon the quantity you
want to make), with which make a stock as directed for Julienne soup,
letting simmer two hours, and keeping it well skimmed; in the mean time
trim two or three bunches of fine winter leeks, cutting off the roots
and part of the head, then split each in halves lengthwise, and each
half in three, wash well in two or three waters, pass the stock through
a sieve into another stewpan, into which put the leeks, with a fowl
trussed as for boiling, let simmer very gently at the corner of the fire
for three hours, keeping it well skimmed, season a little if required,
and half an hour before serving add two dozen French plums, without
breaking them; when ready to serve, take out the fowl, which cut into
neat pieces, place in a large tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over,
the leeks being then partly in purée; if too thick, however, add a drop
more broth or water. Should the leeks happen to be old and strong, it
would be better to blanch them five minutes in a gallon of boiling water
previously to putting them with the stock. Although an old cock is
usually procured in Scotland for the above purpose, I prefer a young
one, but should an old one be most handy, stew it a short time in the
stock before passing it.
No. 39. _Ox-tail Soup._ Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the
joint, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put
in the ox-tails, with a carrot, turnip, three onions, head of celery,
one leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, add half a pint
of water and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a sharp fire,
stirring occasionally until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a
thickish brown glaze; then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it
well in, and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a
tablespoonful of salt, stir occasionally until boiling, when set it upon
the corner of the stove, skim well, and let simmer until the tails are
stewed very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bone; take them out
immediately and put them into your tureen; pass the soup, which must not
be too thick, through a hair sieve over them, add a head of celery
previously cut small and blanched in a little stock, and serve.
Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour, and serving
vegetables in it as directed in Julienne soup (No. 35), but cut in any
other shape.
No. 40. _Ox-cheek Soup._ Blanch and wash well two ox-cheeks, cut off the
beard, take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into
middling-sized pieces, leaving the cheek part whole, put altogether into
a stewpan, with four quarts of water, a little salt, ten peppercorns,
two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and a bunch of
parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, also a burnt onion to colour it; let stew
at the corner of the fire six hours, keeping well skimmed, then take out
the fleshy part of the cheek and pass the broth through a hair sieve
into another stewpan, mix half a pound of flour with a pint of cold
broth, which pour into it and stir over the fire until boiling, place it
at the corner, let simmer till tender (adding two heads of celery cut
very fine, and a glass of sherry); when the celery is tender, cut the
meat in small square slices, keep them warm, and when the soup is ready
pour over and serve. Sheep’s or lambs’ heads also make very good soup by
following the above receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, or
beef to the stock, two heads would be sufficient, and they would not
require so long to stew.
No. 41. _New Mock Turtle Soup._ Procure half a calf’s head (scalded, not
skinned), bone it, then cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a
stewpan, with half a pound of lean ham, two ounces of butter, one of
salt, at the bottom, a carrot, one turnip, three onions, a head of
celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, marjoram, basil, and a
bay-leaf, with nearly half a pint of water; move round occasionally upon
the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze;
then add six quarts of water, and put in the half head, let simmer at
the corner of the fire for two hours and a half, or till the head is
perfectly tender, when take it up and press it between two dishes, pass
the stock through a hair sieve into a basin; then in another stewpan
have a quarter of a pound of butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil,
marjoram, and a bay-leaf, let the butter get quite hot; then add six
ounces of flour to form a roux, stir over a sharp fire a few minutes,
keeping it quite white, stand it off the fire to cool, then add the
stock, boil up, skim, and pass it through a hair sieve into another
stewpan, cut the head into pieces an inch square, not too thick, and put
them into the soup, which season with a little cayenne pepper; when the
pieces are hot, add a gill of cream, and pour it into your tureen. The
above quantity will make several tureens of soup, and will keep good
several days.
No. 42. _Brown Mock Turtle Soup._ Proceed the same as in the last
article, only colouring the stock by drawing it down to a brown glaze,
or with a couple of burnt onions, and serving with a glass of port wine
in it, or two of sherry, omitting the cream.
No. 43. _Mulligatawny Soup._ Cut up a knuckle of veal, which put in a
stewpan with a piece of butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, one
turnip, three onions, six apples, one head of celery, one leek, a bunch
of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, a blade of mace, six cloves, and half a
pint of water; set the stewpan over a sharp fire, move the meat round
occasionally, let remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with
a brownish glaze; then add two or three tablespoonfuls of currie powder,
one of currie paste, if handy, and half a pound of flour, stir well in,
and fill up with a gallon of water, add a spoonful of salt, half ditto
of sugar, and a quarter ditto of pepper, let boil up; then place it at
the corner of the stove, where let it simmer two hours and a half, then
pass it through a hair sieve into the tureen; trim some of the pieces of
veal, which serve in it, and some plain boiled rice separate; ox-tails
or pieces of rabbits, chickens, &c., left from a previous dinner may be
served in it instead of the veal; if too thick add a drop of broth or
water.
No. 44. _Giblet Soup._ Clean two sets of giblets and soak for two hours,
cut them into equal sizes and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of
a pound of butter, four pounds of veal or beef, half a pound of ham, a
carrot, turnip, three onions, a head of celery, leek, two ounces of
salt, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; place the stewpan
over a sharp fire, stirring the meat round occasionally, when the bottom
of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze add half a pound of flour,
stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water, add two burnt onions
to colour it; when boiling set at the corner of the stove, let simmer,
skim well, and when the giblets are tender take them out, put them in
your tureen, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, and serve; twenty
button onions, or any small sharp vegetable, is very good in it, also a
glass of port wine.
No. 45. _Green Pea Soup._ Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan
with a quarter of a pound of butter, quarter of a pound of lean ham cut
in dice, two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley; add a quart
of cold water, and with the hand rub all well together, then pour off
the water, cover the stewpan close and stand it upon a sharp fire,
tossing or stirring them round occasionally; when very tender add two or
three tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well in, mashing the peas with your
spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add three quarts of broth, made
as for Julienne soup (No. 35), or broth from the pot-au-feu (No. 34),
and a tablespoonful of sugar, with a little pepper and salt if required,
boil all well together five minutes; then rub it through a tammie or
hair sieve, put it into another stewpan with half a pint of boiling
milk, boil and skim, then pour it into your tureen, and serve with small
croutons of fried bread-crumbs. It must not be served too thick.
No. 46. _Winter Pea Soup._ Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a
stewpan with half a pound of streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two
pounds of veal or beef cut into small pieces, and a little parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf, previously passed in butter in the same stewpan;
cover with a gallon of water, add a little salt and sugar, place it upon
the fire; when boiling stand it at the side until the peas are boiled
to a purée, and the water has reduced to half, then take out the meat,
place it in the tureen, keep it hot, and rub the soup through a hair
sieve or tammie, put it into another stewpan, and when boiling pour over
the meat and serve. The bacon is good cold, the meat may also be put
into the tureen if approved of.
No. 47. _Purée, or Vegetable Soup._ Peel and cut up very fine three
onions, three turnips, one carrot, and four potatoes, put them into a
stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, and a
bunch of parsley, pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire; then add a
good spoonful of flour, mix well in, moisten with two quarts of broth
(prepared as for Julienne soup, No. 35), and a pint of boiling milk,
boil up, keeping it stirred, season with a little salt and sugar, and
rub through a hair sieve or tammie, put it into another stewpan, boil
again, skim, and serve with croutons of fried bread in it.
No. 48. _Soup Maigre._ Cut two onions into very small dice and put them
into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, fry them a short time, but not
to change colour; have three or four handfuls of well-washed sorrel, cut
it into ribands, and put it into the stewpan with the onions, add two
tablespoonfuls of flour, mix well, then a pint of milk and a pint of
water, boil all together ten minutes, season with a little sugar and
salt, and finish with a liaison of two yolks of eggs, mixed with a gill
of cream, stir it in quickly, do not let it boil afterwards; put the
crust of a French roll cut in strips into your tureen, pour the soup
over, and serve.
No. 49. _Onion Soup Maigre._ Peel and cut ten large onions into small
dice, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, place
them over the fire, fry them well; then add three tablespoonfuls of
flour, which mix well, and rather better than a quart of water, boil
till the onions are quite tender, season with a little salt and sugar,
finish with a liaison, and serve as in the last; grated cheese is an
improvement in it.
No. 50. _Vermicelli Soup._ Make your stock as for Julienne soup (No.
35), when passed put it into another stewpan with two ounces of
vermicelli, boil it a quarter of an hour, then pour it into your tureen,
and serve.
Semolina or tapioca soup is made the same, using either instead of
vermicelli. For rice soup, see No. 197, Kitchen of the Wealthy.
No. 51. _Macaroni Soup._ (See No. 198, and Italian Paste, No. 194,
Kitchen of the Wealthy.)
FISH.--No. 52. _Turbot._ For the methods of cleaning fish, see the other
department of this work. In My Kitchen at Home I should never think of
cooking too large a turbot, but choose a middle-sized one which,
generally speaking, is the best; cut an incision in the back, rub it
well with a good handful of salt, then with the juice of a lemon, set it
in a turbot kettle well covered with cold water, in which you have put a
good handful of salt, place over the fire, and as soon as the water
boils put it at the side; if a turbot of ten pounds it will take an hour
after it has boiled, if it should be allowed to more than simmer it will
be very unsightly; take out of the water, leave a minute upon your
drainer, serve upon a napkin garnished with fresh parsley, and lobster
sauce in a boat; for sauce (see No. 68), or shrimp sauce (No. 73).
No. 53. _Turbot, the new French Fashion._ Boil your turbot as in the
last but dress it upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over with a
thickish melted butter (having placed a border of well-boiled small
potatoes round), sprinkle a few capers over and serve.
No. 54. _Turbot à la Crême_ is done with the remains of a turbot from a
previous dinner; detach the flesh from the bone, and warm in salt and
water, make cream sauce as page 99, only omit a third of the butter.
_Brills_ are cooked in the same manner as turbots, but being smaller do
not require so long boiling; but in boiling any description of fish,
never take it up until it leaves the bone with facility, which try by
placing the point of a knife between the flesh and the bone, if done the
flesh will detach immediately.
No. 55. _John Dorée, Boulogne fashion._ John Dorées, though not very
handsome, are very delicate eating; choose them from four to six pounds
in weight, and boil as directed for turbot; one of the above size would
require about three quarters of an hour; if any remain, dress like
turbot, or with caper sauce, &c.
No. 56. _Salmon, plain boiled._ I prefer always dressing this fish in
slices from an inch or two inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of
salt and water about half an hour; the whole fish may be boiled, or the
head and shoulders of a large fish, but they require longer boiling.
Salmon eats firmer, by not being put into the water until boiling; dress
the fish upon a napkin and serve with lobster sauce (page 30), shrimp
do., or plain melted butter in a boat, with fresh sprigs of parsley
boiled a few minutes in it. A salmon weighing ten pounds will require an
hour and a half boiling; a head and shoulders weighing six pounds, one
hour. The remains may be dressed à la crême, as directed for the turbot
(No. 54).
No. 57. _Salmon Sauce Matelote._ Cook three good slices of salmon as
directed in the last, or a large salmon peal trussed in the form of the
letter S; dress it upon a dish without a napkin, having previously
drained off all the water; have ready the following sauce: peel fifty
small button onions, then put a good teaspoonful of powdered sugar into
a convenient-sized stewpan, place it upon a sharp fire, and just as the
sugar melts and turns yellowish add a quarter of a pound of butter and
the onions, place it again upon the fire, tossing them over occasionally
until they become slightly browned, then add a good tablespoonful of
flour (mix well, but gently), a glass of sherry, and a pint of broth
(reserved from some soup), let boil at the corner of the stove, skim
well, and when the onions are done and the sauce rather thick, add a
little pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of catsup, one of Harvey sauce, and
one of essence of anchovies; when ready to serve add two dozen of
oysters, blanched and bearded, allow them to get quite hot, sauce over
and serve. I sometimes at home make a few fish quenelles (No. 124,
Kitchen of the Wealthy) and add to the sauce.
The remainder of the above is very good if put in the oven upon a dish
with a cover over and a little additional sauce.
No. 58. _Cod Fish, plain boiled._ (See page 119.)
No. 59. _Cod Fish sauced over with Oyster Sauce._ Boil three slices of
the fish as above, drain and dress them upon a dish without a napkin,
blanch three dozen oysters by putting them into a stewpan with their
juice upon the fire, move them round occasionally, do not let them boil;
as soon as they become a little firm place a sieve over a basin, pour in
the oysters, beard and throw them again into their liquor, put them into
a stewpan; when boiling add four cloves, half a blade of mace, six
peppercorns, and two ounces of butter, to which you have added half a
tablespoonful of flour, breaking it into small pieces, stir well
together, when boiling, season with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and
essence of anchovies, finish with a gill of cream, or milk, and sauce
over. The remains of this fish may be taken from the bone and placed
upon a dish, with a little of the above sauce (to which you have added
the yolks of two eggs) over, sprinkle over with bread-crumbs, and place
it twenty minutes in a hot oven till the bread-crumbs become brown.
For Salt Fish, see page 122, in the other department of this work.
No. 60. _Haddocks._ (See Nos. 308, 309, 310, Kitchen of the Wealthy.)
No. 61. _Baked Haddocks._ (See page 129.)
No. 62. _Soles, Fried._ (See page 114.)
No. 63. _Soles, the Jewish Fashion._ Trim the fish well, dip it into a
couple of eggs, well beaten, put six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a
sauté-pan, place it over the fire, and when quite hot put in your sole;
let remain five minutes, turn over, and fry upon the other side; ten or
twelve minutes will cook it according to the size; serve upon a napkin
without sauce. They are excellent cold.
No. 64. _Sole à la Meunière._ (See page 115, in the other department of
this work.)
No. 65. _Sole aux Fines Herbes._ Put a spoonful of chopped eschalots
into a sauté-pan, with a glass of sherry and an ounce of butter, place
the sole over, pour nearly half a pint of melted butter over it, upon
which sprinkle some chopped parsley, place it in a moderate oven for
half an hour, take the sole out of the pan, dress upon a dish without a
napkin, reduce the sauce that is in the pan over a sharp fire, add a
little Harvey sauce and essence of anchovy, pour over the sole, and
serve them with a little flour and butter.
No. 66. _Fried Whiting._ The whiting requires to be skinned, and the
tail turned round and fixed into the mouth, dip it first into flour,
then egg over, and dip it into bread-crumbs, fry as directed for the
sole; for whiting aux fines herbes proceed as directed for sole aux
fines herbes. At home I prefer the whiting fried with their skins on,
merely dipping them in flour.
No. 67. _Whiting au Gratin._ Put a good spoonful of chopped onions upon
a strong earthen dish, with a glass of wine, season the whitings with a
little pepper and salt, put it in the dish, sprinkle some chopped
parsley and chopped mushrooms over, and pour over half a pint of anchovy
sauce (page 32), over which sprinkle some brown bread-crumbs, grated
from the crust of bread, place it in a warm oven half an hour; it
requires to be nicely browned; serve upon the dish you have cooked it
in.
No. 68. _Red Mullets._ Procure two red mullets, which place upon a
strong dish not too large, sprinkle some chopped onions, parsley, a
little pepper and salt, and a little salad-oil over, and put them into a
warm oven for half an hour, then put a tablespoonful of chopped onions
into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salad-oil, stir over a moderate
fire until getting rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of sherry,
half a pint of melted butter, with a little chopped mushrooms and
parsley; reduce quickly over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until
becoming rather thick; when the mullets are done sauce over and serve.
No. 69. _Mackerel_ are generally served plain boiled; put them in a
kettle containing boiling water, well salted, let simmer nearly half an
hour, take them up, drain, and dish them upon a napkin, serve melted
butter in a boat, with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of chopped
fennel, boiling it a few minutes.
No. 70. _Mackerel à la Maître d’Hôtel._ (See p. 127); as also for
Mackerel au beurre noir.
No. 71. _Gurnets_ are best stuffed and baked; stuff them as directed for
haddocks, turn them round in the same manner, lay slices of butter over,
cut very thin, and bake half an hour or more (according to their size)
in a warm oven, when done dress upon a dish without a napkin, and have
ready the following sauce: put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a
stewpan, with one of vinegar, place over the fire a couple of minutes,
add half a pint of melted butter, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, one
of catsup, and two of water, reduce until rather thick, season with a
little pepper, cut the fillets of a good anchovy into strips, put in the
sauce, which pour round the fish and serve.
No. 72. _Boiled Gurnet._ You may boil it either with or without the
stuffing in very salt water, it will require rather more than half an
hour; serve with anchovy sauce separate.
No. 73. _Herrings boiled with Cream Sauce._ Boil six herrings about
twenty minutes in plenty of salt and water, but only just to simmer;
then have ready the following sauce: put half a gill of cream upon the
fire in a stewpan, when it boils add eight spoonfuls of melted butter,
an ounce of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a
lemon; dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over and
serve.
For Broiled Herrings à la Digon, see page 132.
No. 74. _Skate_ is usually crimped, cut into long slices, and curled
round; procure two or three slices, tie them with string to keep the
shape in boiling, put them into a kettle of boiling water, in which you
have put a good handful of salt; boil gently about twenty minutes (have
ready also a piece of the liver, which boil with it), when done drain
well, and put it upon a dish without a napkin; put three parts of a pint
of melted butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when quite
hot add a wineglassful of capers, sauce over and serve.
For Skate au beurre noir, see page 133.
Skate may also be served upon a napkin with a boat of well-seasoned
melted butter, to which you have added a spoonful of Harvey sauce.
No. 75. _Flounders, Water Souchet._ Procure four or six Thames
flounders, cut each in halves, put half a pint of water in a sauté-pan,
with a little scraped horseradish, a little pepper, salt, sugar, and
forty sprigs of fresh parsley; place over the fire, boil a minute, then
add the flounders, stew ten minutes, take them out and place in a dish
without a napkin, reduce the liquor they were stewed in a little, pour
over and serve.
To fry flounders, trim them, and proceed precisely as directed for fried
soles (p. 114).
Smelts are likewise floured, egged, bread-crumbed, and fried as above.
Plaice are plain boiled in salt and water, and served with shrimp sauce
in a boat.
FRESH WATER FISH.--No. 76. _Pike._ Clean as directed (page 93), stuff
the interior as directed for haddocks (page 129), only adding some
fillets of anchovies and chopped lemon-peel with it; curl round and put
in a baking dish, spread a little butter all over, put in a moderate
oven; when about half done egg over with a paste brush, and sprinkle
bread-crumbs upon it; a middling-sized pike will take about an hour, but
that according to the size and the heat of the oven; when done dress
upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce round as directed for baked
haddock above referred to.
No. 77. _Pike, Sauce Matelote._ Cook a pike exactly as in the last,
dress it upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce with a matelote sauce
over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57).
This fish may also be served with caper sauce as directed for the skate
(No. 74)--the smaller ones are the best; the remains of a pike placed in
the oven the next day, with a cover over it and a little more sauce
added, is very nice.
No. 78. _Stewed Carp._ Procure a good-sized carp, stuff it, then put it
into a baking-dish with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, one head of
celery, and a good bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; moisten with
two glasses of port wine, and put it in a moderate oven about two hours
to bake; try if done with a knife, which is the case if the flesh leaves
the bone easily, dress upon a dish without a napkin, then have ready the
following sauce: mince a large Spanish onion with two common ones, and
put them into a stewpan with three spoonfuls of salad-oil, fry rather a
yellow colour, add two glasses of port wine and two spoonfuls of flour,
mix all well together, add a pint of broth (reserved from some soup) or
water, with half an ounce of glaze, boil it up, drain the stock the carp
was cooked in from the vegetables, which also add to the sauce; boil
well at the corner of the stove, skim, and when rather thick add a
teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, one of essence of anchovies, twelve pickled
mushrooms, and a little cayenne pepper, pour all the liquor drained from
the fish out of your dish, sauce over and serve.
No. 79. _Carp, Sauce Matelote._ Put your carp into a small oval
fish-kettle, with wine and vegetables as in the last, to which add also
a pint of water and a little salt, with a few cloves and peppercorns;
put the lid upon the fish-kettle and stand it over a moderate fire to
stew an hour and a half, according to the size; when done drain well,
dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce over with a matelote sauce
made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57), or caper sauce, as
for skate (No. 74); small carp are very good-flavored, bread-crumbed and
fried.
No. 80. _Truite à la Twickenham._ When you have cleaned your trout as
described at page 23, put them into a kettle of boiling water, to which
you have added a good handful of salt, and a wineglassful of vinegar;
boil gently about twenty minutes, or according to their size, dress upon
a napkin, and serve melted butter, into which you have put a
tablespoonful of chopped gherkins in a boat.
The remains of trout, salmon, or mackerel are excellent pickled; put
three onions in slices in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, one
turnip, parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, pass them five minutes over the
fire, add a pint of water and a pint of vinegar; boil until the onions
are tender, then strain it through a sieve over the fish; it will keep
some time if required, and then do to pickle more fish by boiling over
again.
No. 81. _Truite à la Burton._ Boil the trout as in the last, then put
half a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of
cream and two of milk, place it upon the fire, and when upon the point
of boiling add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful
of cream (dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin), put two ounces
of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, and the juice of a lemon into the
sauce; shake round over the fire, but do not let it boil; sauce over the
fish and serve.
No. 82. _Tench, Sauce Matelote._ Put three onions, a carrot, and turnip,
cut in slices, into a stewpan, or very small fish-kettle, with a good
handful of parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, three bay-leaves, six cloves,
a blade of mace, a little salt, and two glasses of sherry; lay your
tench over (it will require four for a dish, and they may be either
cooked whole or each one cut into two or three pieces), add a pint of
water, cover down close, and stew gently over a slow fire for about half
an hour, take them out, drain upon a cloth, dress in pyramid upon a dish
without a napkin, and pour a sauce over made as directed for salmon
sauce matelote (No. 57), or as for stewed carp (No. 78).
No. 83. _Tench with Anchovy Butter._ Cook the tench as in the last, but
they may be plain boiled in salt and water; dress upon a dish without a
napkin, then put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with one
of milk; place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling add
an ounce of anchovy butter (page 33), shake it round over the fire until
the butter is melted, when sauce over and serve.
No. 84. _Perch fried in Butter._ Clean the fish as explained (p. 94),
dry well, make an incision upon each side with a knife, put a quarter of
a pound of butter in a sauté-pan over a slow fire, lay in the fish, fry
gently, turning them over when half done; when done dress upon a napkin,
and serve melted butter in a boat.
No. 85. _Perch, Hampton Court Fashion._ Cook the fish as above, and have
ready the following sauce: put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a
stewpan, with a little salt and the juice of a lemon; when upon the
point of boiling stir in the yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful
of cream; do not let it boil; blanch about twenty small sprigs of
parsley in boiling water ten minutes, drain and put them in the sauce,
which pour over the fish and serve.
Perch may also be served plain boiled or stewed as directed for tench,
with sauce served separate.
No. 86. _Eels Fried._ Cut your eels into pieces three inches long, dip
the pieces into flour, egg over with a paste brush, and throw them into
some bread-crumbs; fry in hot lard as directed for fried soles (p. 114).
No. 87. _Stewed Eels, Sauce Matelote._ Procure as large eels as
possible, which cut into pieces three inches long, and put them into a
stewpan, with an onion, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and parsley,
six cloves, a blade of mace, a glass of sherry, and two of water; place
the stewpan over a moderate fire, and let simmer about twenty minutes,
or according to the size of the eels; when done drain upon a cloth,
dress them in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, with a matelote
sauce over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote (No. 57), but
using the stock your eels have been cooked in to make the sauce, having
previously well boiled it to extract all the fat.
No. 88. _Gudgeons_ are floured, egged, bread-crumbed, or simply floured
and fried as directed for smelts; but being smaller, they require less
time to cook.
No. 89. _Escaloped Oysters._ Put two dozen of oysters with their liquor
into a stewpan, place over a fire, and when a little firm drain them
upon a sieve, catching the liquor in another stewpan; detach the beard
from the oysters, and throw them again into their liquor; add half a
blade of mace, place again upon the fire, and when boiling add a piece
of butter, the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful
of flour; shake round over the fire until becoming very thick, season
with a little cayenne, and salt if required, have an escalop-shell, well
buttered and bread-crumbed, place the oysters in, sprinkle bread-crumbs
over, put it in the oven a quarter of an hour, pass the salamander over,
and serve.
No. 90. _Stewed Oysters._ Blanch and beard the oysters as above, when
done, put them with their liquor in a stewpan, with four cloves, a blade
of mace, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, with a little
chopped parsley and cayenne; let simmer a minute, stir in two pats of
butter, with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour, let
simmer a little longer, lay the oysters in your dish upon a piece of
toast, and sauce over.
No. 91. _Gratin of Lobsters._ Procure a good-sized lobster, cut it in
halves, detaching the head from the body, take out all the meat, and
save the four shells; cut the meat into dice, then take a teaspoonful of
chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of two
walnuts, pass them a few minutes over a fire, add a tablespoonful of
flour (mix well in), half a pint of milk, stir over the fire, boiling
about five minutes, then add the lobster, which season with a little
cayenne, salt, chopped parsley, and essence of anchovies; stand it again
upon the fire, stirring until boiling, then stir in the yolk of an egg;
take off the fire, fill the shells of the lobster, sprinkle
bread-crumbs over, put them into the oven about ten minutes, the top
requiring to be browned; serve upon a napkin garnished with parsley.
SIMPLE HORS-D’ŒUVRES.
No. 92. _Rissoles of Oysters._ Prepare two dozen of blanched oysters as
directed for escaloped oysters, but cutting each oyster into six pieces,
turn it out upon a dish, where leave it until quite cold; then have the
trimmings of some puff paste,[25] which roll very thin; put some of the
oysters upon it in pieces the size of a walnut, fold them over with the
paste, which cut out with a round cutter, giving each the shape of a
turnover, egg with a paste brush, and throw them into bread-crumbs,
cover well, have ready a stewpan in which there is some very hot lard or
white dripping (as for frying fish), in which fry your rissoles of a
light brown colour; dress upon a napkin in a plate, garnish with fried
parsley, and serve to be handed round the table.
No. 93. _Rissoles of Lamb._ Cut up about a pound of cooked lamb (the
remains of a previous day) into very small dice, with a quarter of a
pound of lean cooked ham, then put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in
a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of a nut, pass them over the
fire a couple of minutes, then stir in a teaspoonful of flour, after
which add nearly half a pint of melted butter and the meat; stir it over
the fire until it boils, season well with a little pepper and salt, and
stir in the yolks of a couple of eggs, put it out upon a dish till cold,
and proceed as directed in the last article.
The flesh of any poultry or game may be used exactly the same.
No. 94. _Rocambole, or Croquettes of Meat, Game, or Poultry._ Make a
preparation as above with some description of cold cooked meat, or
poultry; when cold divide it into pieces, each rather larger than a
walnut, roll them to about two inches and a half in length, have three
eggs in a basin well whisked, into which dip them, throw them into
bread-crumbs, take them out, well covered, and smooth them by gently
patting them with a knife, then dip them into clarified butter, and
again into bread-crumbs, smooth them again, and fry them of a light
colour in a stewpan of hot lard, and serve precisely the same as for
rissoles.
No. 95. _Lamb’s Fry._ See the other department of this work, page 312;
nothing can be more simplified.
REMOVES SIMPLIFIED.
No. 96. _Stewed Rump of Beef._ Choose a small rump of beef, cut it away
from the bone, cut about twenty long pieces of fat bacon, which run
through the flesh in a slanting direction, then chop up the bone, place
it at the bottom of a large stewpan, with six cloves, three onions, one
carrot, a turnip, head of celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme,
and bay-leaf, then lay in the rump (previously tying it up with string),
which just cover with water, add a good handful of salt and two burnt
onions, place upon the fire, and when boiling stand it at the corner,
let simmer nearly four hours, keeping it skimmed; when done pass part of
the stock it was cooked in (keeping the beef hot in the remainder)
through a hair sieve into a basin; in another stewpan have ready a
quarter of a pound of butter, melt it over the fire, add six ounces of
flour, mix well together, stirring over the fire until becoming a little
brownish, take off, and when cold add two quarts of the stock, stir it
over the fire until it boils, then have four carrots, four turnips (cut
into small pieces with cutters), and forty button onions peeled, put
them into the sauce, when again boiling draw it to the corner, where let
simmer until tender, keeping it skimmed, add a little powdered sugar and
a bunch of parsley; if it should become too thick add a little more of
the stock, dress the beef upon a dish, sauce round and serve.
No. 97. _Stewed Rump of Beef with Onions._ See page 172, in the other
department.
The remains of stewed beef, cut in slices and warmed in some of the
stock, is good the next day served with a little sharp sauce (page 15).
The remaining stock is good for any kind of soup or stock the next day.
No. 98. _Stewed Rump Steak with Oyster Sauce._ Cut from a small stale
rump of beef two steaks, about-three quarters of an inch in thickness,
season well with pepper and salt; well butter a deep sauté-pan, lay in
your steaks, with four cloves, a blade of mace, and a bunch of parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf, cover with a quarter of a pint of water, set over a
slow fire, when they have simmered half an hour turn them over, and let
remain until quite tender; take up, place upon your dish, and keep them
hot, place the sauté-pan at the corner of the fire, boil, skim well, add
an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed half a tablespoonful of
flour, stir well, and when it thickens add two dozen oysters previously
blanched and bearded, half a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, and a
little cayenne pepper, sauce over the steaks and serve. The steak with
common stewed oysters would be very good.
No. 99. _Ribs of Beef à l’Hôtelière._ Procure four ribs of beef, but not
too fat or too thick, take off the chine-bone neatly, and the tips of
the rib-bones, skewer the flap under, so as to form a good square piece;
put a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large
braising-pan, let melt, then lay in your beef (which must previously be
larded through the best part with ten long pieces of fat bacon),
seasoned with a teaspoonful of salt, and half ditto of pepper, cover the
braising-pan, and put it upon a slow fire for twenty minutes, keeping it
stirred round until becoming a nice gold colour, then add a pint of
water; when about half done throw in eighty button onions and about
sixty small pieces of carrot, cut the size and shape of young ones; half
an hour after add the same number of pieces of turnips, and a bunch of
parsley, to which you have added three bay-leaves and four sprigs of
thyme, keep stewing gently until the vegetables are done, and the beef
is quite tender, which take out, trim, and lay it upon your dish, skim
off as much fat as possible from the vegetables, add an ounce of butter
with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of flour, with a teaspoonful
of sugar, boil altogether, dress round and serve.
No. 100. _Beef à la Mode._ The real beef à la mode is made as follows,
and not as a kind of soup daily sold in cookshops.
Procure either a small piece of rump, sirloin, or ribs of beef, about
twelve pounds in weight, take away all the bone, and lard it through
with ten long pieces of fat bacon; then put it into a long earthen pan,
with a calf’s foot, four onions, two carrots cut in slices, if large, a
bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, two cloves stuck
in one of the onions, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one of salt, four
wineglasses of sherry, four ditto of water, and a pound of streaked
bacon cut in squares, place the cover upon the pan, with a piece of
common flour-and-water paste round the edges to keep it perfectly
air-tight; put in a very moderate oven four hours, take out, place upon
your dish with the vegetables and bacon round, skim the gravy, which
pour over; but the above is best eaten cold, when it should not be taken
out of the pan, nor the pan opened until nearly cold. A long brown
earthen pan for the above purpose may be obtained at any china
warehouse, but if you cannot obtain one, a stewpan must supply the
place.
_Another Method._ Have ready six pounds of rump of beef cut into pieces
two inches square, lard each piece through with two or three lardons of
bacon; have also two pounds of streaked bacon, clear it from the skin,
and cut it into squares half the size of the beef, put them into an
earthen pan with two calf’s feet (cut up), half a pint of sherry, two
bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, four onions, with a
clove in each, a blade of mace, and half a pint of water, cover the pan
as in the last, and put it in a moderate oven for three hours; do not
open the pan until three parts cold, then take out the meat, lay a
little of the beef at the bottom of a stewpan (not too large), then a
little of the bacon, then more beef, and so on alternately, press them
together lightly, then pass the gravy through a hair sieve over, and
leave it until quite cold, then dip the stewpan into hot water, and turn
out upon your dish to serve; the calf’s feet may be made hot in a little
of the stock, to which add two pats of butter, with which you have mixed
a teaspoonful of flour, a little chopped parsley, and half a spoonful of
vinegar, and serve as an entrée. The above is excellent either hot or
cold.
No. 101. _Ox-tongue._ Procure a well-pickled ox-tongue, if weighing five
or six pounds it will take three hours gently boiling in a gallon of
water; when done skin it and trim the root, serve where afterwards
directed, or with spinach dressed as (No. 1088.)
No. 102. _Loin of Veal, with Stewed Celery._ Put a small loin of veal
upon a spit surrounded with all descriptions of vegetables, tied up in
oiled paper; roast, if a middling-sized one, about two hours and a half
before a moderate fire, have sixteen heads of celery, trim off all the
green part from the tops, and a little of the roots, wash well, then
cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of fat bacon, lay in the
celery, two heads tied together, add two onions and a carrot, just cover
them with a little good stock, made as directed for soupe Julienne (page
652), let simmer an hour or more until very tender, drain upon a cloth,
untie them, dress the loin in the centre of your dish, make a border of
the celery round, take out the bacon, onions, and carrot, skim off all
the fat, reduce a little, add an ounce of butter, with which you have
mixed half a tablespoonful of flour, stir well in, season with a little
sugar, salt, and pepper, and when boiling, sauce over the celery and
serve; add a little catsup and Harvey sauce to give a brownish colour to
the sauce.
No. 103. _Loin of Veal, with White Sauce._ Roast a loin of veal as
directed in the last, but keep it as white as possible, when done dress
it upon your dish, with some small well-boiled cauliflowers round it,
have a quart of white sauce made as directed (No. 136) boiling in a
stewpan, sauce over the whole and serve; should peas be in season, a
pint of young green ones may be boiled and sprinkled over.
No. 104. _Dress Fillet of Veal for Remove._ Procure a small fillet of
veal, skewered up very round, and well covered with udder, place a good
piece of streaked bacon in the centre where the bone was taken out, and
stuff it under the udder thus: chop three quarters of a pound of beef
suet very fine, which put into a basin with six ounces of bread-crumbs,
the rind of half a lemon chopped very fine, a little grated nutmeg, two
tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, and a little chopped thyme and
marjoram, with one bay-leaf, mixed, amalgamate the whole with the yolks
of three, and two whole eggs, sew it in, surround your fillet when upon
the spit with every description of vegetables, tie up in oiled paper,
and roast about three hours before a moderate fire; when done clear it
from the vegetables, skewer up with silver, plated, or polished skewers,
draw out those it was first trussed with, place upon your dish with
celery sauce (page 47), white sauce (No. 136), or rather thin melted
butter, with which you have mixed two tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce and
one of catsup, and boiled until it becomes rather a clear brown sauce.
No. 105. _Breasts and Necks of Veal_ may be plain roasted, or roasted in
vegetables as above, and served with stewed peas (No. 1077), or a sauce
jardinière (page 40), which are very simply described.
No. 106. _Half Calf’s Head, with White Sauce._ Procure the half of a
scalded calf’s head, which put into a braising-pan, just cover with
water, add a little salt, two onions, two carrots, two turnips, a large
bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, and six cloves; boil very
gently for two hours, or until tender, which you can tell by pressing
upon it with your finger; when done take up, drain and place in your
dish, surrounded with some well-boiled potatoes cut in halves, and have
ready the following sauce: put a pint and a half of melted butter into a
stewpan, with the juice of a lemon, when boiling add two ounces of fresh
butter and a pinch of salt, when the butter is melted add a liaison of
two yolks of eggs, mixed with half a gill of cream, stir in quickly over
the fire, but do not let it boil, sauce over and serve; the sauce
requires to be rather highly seasoned.
Should you have the tongue and brains, boil the tongue with the head,
when done skin it, lay the brains in warm water to disgorge, blanch them
two minutes in boiling water, to which you have added a little salt and
vinegar; skin, chop, and put them into a stewpan, with the juice of a
lemon, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and
half a pint of melted butter, boil altogether a few minutes, turn out
upon a dish, dress the tongue over, and serve with the calf’s head.
No. 107. _Half Calf’s Head in Currie._ Boil half a calf’s head as
directed in the last, and have ready the following sauce: put four large
onions in slices in a stewpan, with two ounces of lean ham, three apples
in slices, six cloves, a blade of mace, two bay-leaves, and two ounces
of butter, pass them over the fire, until slightly browned, add two good
tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of currie-powder, or a little more if
required, mix well in, add a quart of the stock the head was boiled in,
season with salt and sugar, reduce until of a proper consistency, rub it
through a hair sieve or tammie, put into another stewpan, boil up, skim,
and sauce over the head, which serve with rice, plain boiled, in a
separate dish.
No. 108. _Half Calf’s Head à la Vinaigrette._ (See No. 460, Kitchen of
the Wealthy.)
No. 109. _Half Calf’s Head Broiled, Sauce Piquante._ Boil the head as
before, when done drain upon a napkin, place it upon a baking-sheet, egg
over with a paste-brush, cover with bread-crumbs, put a few small pieces
of butter upon it at various places, and put into a hot oven until well
browned; dress upon your dish with a pint of good sharp sauce (page 15)
round. The tongue and brains may be served dressed as described before,
with each of the methods for dressing calf’s head.
No. 110. _Large Veal Pie._ Have ready boiled a pound of streaked bacon,
when cold cut it in large thin slices, also cut four pounds of lean veal
from the fillet into large but thin slices, season each piece well with
pepper and salt, and dip them into flour; lay some of the bacon at the
bottom of a pie-dish, then some veal, over which sprinkle a little
chopped eschalots, then more bacon, and so on alternately, finishing in
a perfect dome; have ready a pound of half puff paste (p. 480), place a
band round the edge of your dish, wet it, and pour in a quarter of a
pint of water to the meat, cover with the remainder of the paste, egg
over, and decorate it tastefully, bake an hour and three quarters in a
moderate oven. They may also be made of the remains of a joint of veal
previously served, but half a pint of white sauce (No. 136) used in it,
and the water omitted, but the paste will then require to be much
thinner, and it must be baked in a much warmer oven, or the meat would
eat dry; a couple of bay-leaves in a veal pie is a great improvement.
No. 111. _Saddle of Mutton à la Bretonne._ (See page 189.)
No. 112. _Leg of Mutton basted with Devil’s Tears._ Procure a fine but
small leg of mutton which has been well kept, cut an incision in the
knuckle, in which put a clove of garlic, rub all over with a spoonful of
salt, a saltspoonful of cayenne, two ditto of black pepper, and another
clove of garlic (well mixed), and let remain upon a dish until the
following day, when place it upon a spit before a sharp fire, then
procure about a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, place it upon a long
toasting fork, running the prongs through the rind, and hold over the
fire until in a blaze, then hold it over the mutton upon which it will
drop in tears of fire, until all melted; it will give the mutton quite a
peculiar flavour and appearance, and requiring a quarter of an hour less
to roast than in the ordinary method; when done dress upon your dish,
sauce over with two spoonfuls of Harvey sauce and serve.
No. 113. _Leg of Mutton, the Housewife’s Method._ Have a good leg, beat
it a little with a rolling-pin, make an incision in the knuckle, in
which put two cloves of garlic, then put it into a braising-pan, with a
pound of lean bacon cut in eight pieces, set over a moderate fire half
an hour, moving it now and then until becoming a light brown colour,
season with a little pepper and salt, add twenty pieces of carrots of
the same size as the bacon, fifteen middling-sized onions, and when
half done fifteen middling-sized potatoes, two bay-leaves, two cloves,
and a pint of water, replace it upon a moderate fire, moving round
occasionally, stew nearly three hours, dress upon your dish, with the
carrots and onions dressed tastefully around, take off as much of the
fat from the gravy as possible (which will be a little thickened by the
potatoes), take out the bay-leaves, and pour the garniture round the
mutton, which serve very hot.
No. 114. _Shoulder of Mutton, Savoyard’s Method._ Put a small shoulder
of mutton in a deep sauté-pan or baking-dish, season with a little
pepper and salt, cover over with thin slices of fat bacon, then put in
ten potatoes peeled and quartered, and the same quantity of apples, with
half a pint of water, place in a moderate oven and bake for two hours,
dress upon your dish, with the potatoes and apples round, skim all the
fat from the gravy, which pour over and serve; it requires a little oil
or butter over before baking.
No. 115. _Shoulder of Mutton à la Polonaise._ As described (No. 467) in
the other department of this work.
No. 116. _Shoulder of Mutton, Provençale Fashion._ Roast a fine shoulder
of mutton; whilst roasting mince ten large onions very fine, put them
into a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pass them ten
minutes over a good fire, keeping it stirred, then add a tablespoonful
of flour, stir well in, and a pint of milk, season with a little pepper,
salt, and sugar; when the onions are quite tender, and the sauce rather
thick, stir in the yolks of two eggs and take it off the fire; when the
shoulder is done spread the onions over the top, egg over, cover with
bread-crumbs, put in the oven ten minutes, and salamander a light brown
colour, dress upon your dish, put the gravy from it in your stewpan,
with a pat of butter, with which you have mixed a little flour, boil up,
add a little scraped garlic, pour round the shoulder, which serve. The
shoulder may also be dressed in the housewife’s method, as directed for
the leg. A little burnt sugar may be added.
No. 117. _Saddle of Lamb, Berlin Fashion._ Roast a small saddle of lamb
an hour, keeping it rather pale; you have boiled eight or ten good
potatoes, peel them, put in a stewpan, add two ounces of butter, a
teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg; mix all well together with
a fork, add half a gill of milk and one egg, turn well with a wooden
spoon, let it get cold, and roll them in long shape and size of plover’s
eggs, egg and bread-crumb twice, fry light-coloured in hot lard or fat;
dress your saddle upon a dish, surround it with the potatoes, have half
a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, place upon the fire, and when upon
the point of boiling stir in a quarter of a pound of maître d’hôtel
butter (page 33) highly seasoned; when quite melted sauce round and
serve with mint sauce likewise in a boat; for other variations see pages
197, 198, and following pages. Haunch, fore-quarter, or ribs may be
dressed the same.
No. 118. _Leg or Shoulder of Lamb with Peas._ The leg or shoulder must
be plain roasted (see page 645); boil a quart of very young peas, which
strain and put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, half
a teaspoonful of salt, and one of sugar, toss them well together over
the fire until the butter is melted, when pour them into your dish and
dress the joint over.
No. 119. _Leg or Shoulder, with French Beans._ Plain roasted as before;
you have cut and boiled two hundred French beans, drain and put them
into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little
pepper, salt, powdered sugar, and grated nutmeg, toss over the fire till
the butter is melted, add half a pint of melted butter; boil altogether
ten minutes, then stir in quickly a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed
with a quarter of a gill of cream, pour them in your dish and serve the
joint over.
No. 120. _Boiled Leg of Lamb, with Spinach._ Boil a small very white leg
of lamb (see page 646), have also half a sieve of spinach, well picked,
washed, and boiled, drain it quite dry, chop it very fine, and put it
into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little
salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg; stir over the fire until very hot, then
add a tablespoonful of flour, eight of melted butter, and four of cream
or milk, boil two or three minutes, keeping it stirred, then pour it
upon your dish, and dress the leg over.
No. 121. _Neck of Lamb à la Jardinière._ Plain roast the neck; you have
previously cut with a round tin cutter rather larger than a quill about
fifty pieces of carrot, and one hundred pieces of turnip, half an inch
in length, put them into a stewpan, with twenty button onions ready
peeled, two ounces of butter, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; place
them over a sharp fire (keeping them moved to prevent burning) ten
minutes, add a tablespoonful of flour and a pint of broth, which reserve
from your soup, stand it at the corner of the fire, add a small bunch of
parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf and let boil until the vegetables are
tender and the sauce becomes thickish, keeping well skimmed, then add a
few ready boiled peas, French beans, Brussels sprouts, or any other
green vegetables in season, pour the sauce in your dish, and dress the
lamb upon it; if your sauce is not quite brown enough add a few drops of
colouring to it.
No. 122. _Lamb’s Head Broiled, with Mint Sauce, or Sauce Piquante._
Procure two heads, split them, but not to detach them, take out the
brains and the greater part of the skull bone, forming each head as
nearly as possible to the shape of a heart, put them into a
braising-pan, with two onions, a carrot, turnip, head of celery, a bunch
of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, a blade of mace, and just
cover them with a little water, stew them until quite tender, then take
out, drain, egg over with a paste-brush, and cover them with
bread-crumbs, place small pieces of butter here and there over them,
place them in the oven ten minutes, then brown them with a salamander,
and serve them with a good sauce piquante (page 15) round them, or they
may be served with the brains cooked as directed for calf’s brains (page
282) under them; sheeps’ heads are done the same, only they require a
longer time to stew.
The heart and pluck are also excellent served under them as follows:
blanch them in boiling water twenty minutes, and when half cold cut the
whole in very fine dice, put an ounce and a half of butter in a stewpan,
with a spoonful of chopped onions, pass over the fire two minutes (keep
stirring), then add a spoonful of flour (mix well), moisten with a pint
of broth or milk, when boiling add the mince, and season with a
teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of white pepper, and a little
grated nutmeg.
No. 123. _Loin or Neck of Pork à la Bourguinotte._ The neck or loin must
be plain roasted; you have peeled and cut four onions in dice, put them
into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, stir over the fire until
rather brown, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add a good
pint of broth if any, or water, with an ounce of glaze, boil ten
minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of French mustard, with a little pepper,
salt, and sugar, pour the sauce upon the dish, and dress your joint upon
it; serve with a little apple sauce separate in a boat.
No. 124. _Loin or Neck of Pork, Normandy fashion._ Procure a neck or
loin, put it in a common earthen dish, having previously scored the
rind, rub over with a little oil, place about twenty potatoes cut in
halves or in quarters in the dish with the pork, ten onions peeled, and
twenty apples peeled and quartered, place in a warm oven for an hour and
a half or more, then dress it upon your dish with the apples, onions,
and potatoes around, and serve.
No. 125. _Pig’s Cheek, a new Method._ Procure a pig’s cheek nicely
pickled (see page 649), boil well until it feels very tender, tie half a
pint of split peas in a cloth, put them into a stewpan of boiling water,
boil about half an hour, take them out, pass through a hair sieve, put
them into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt,
and four eggs, stir them over the fire, until the eggs are partially
set, then spread it over the pig’s cheek, egg with a paste-brush,
sprinkle bread-crumbs over, place in the oven twenty minutes, brown it
with the salamander and serve.
No. 126. _Sucking Pig_ is merely plain roasted (see page 204), stuffed
with sage and onions, but before putting it upon the spit it requires to
be floured and rubbed very dry, otherwise the skin would not eat crisp;
the usual method of serving it is to cut off the head, and divide the
body and head of the pig in halves, lengthwise; serve apple sauce
separate in a boat if approved of.
In my Kitchen at Home I can also roast a haunch or neck of venison,
depending upon which is presented to me, and precisely as recommended in
the other department of this book (page 222); for the remains I also
proceed the same.
No. 127. _Roast Turkey._ Pluck, draw, and truss a turkey for roasting,
stuff it at the breast with the same stuffing as directed for the fillet
of veal (page 51); if it should weigh twelve pounds it will require two
hours roasting before a strong fire, when done take it off the spit,
take away the skewer and string it was trussed with, hold it by the
legs, sprinkle a little salt over, and pour a little hot water or broth
over the back to make a gravy,[26] and serve with broiled sausages, ham,
or a piece of boiled bacon, separate.
No. 128. _Braised Turkey._ Truss a nice turkey with the legs inside as
for boiling, then put three onions in slices at the bottom of a
stewpan, with a carrot, turnip, leek, and a head of celery, also cut
small, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, four cloves, a
blade of mace, half a pound of lean ham, and two pounds of veal cut in
dice, cover them with two quarts of water, then lay in the turkey,
breast downwards, cover the stewpan close, and let it simmer about two
hours over a slow fire; then take it up, place it upon your dish, with a
cover over it to keep it hot, then pass the stock from it through a hair
sieve into a stewpan, place it upon the fire, boil and skim off all the
grease; then in another stewpan place two ounces of butter, let melt,
then stir in a sufficient quantity of flour to make a roux, stir over
the fire some time, but keeping it quite white, then take it off, stir
until partly cold, add the stock, boil, keep it stirred; if too thick
add a little milk, season with a little salt and sugar, place four
cauliflowers nicely boiled round the turkey, sauce over the whole and
serve; a boiled ham, tongue, or a piece of bacon is usually served
separate with it.
No. 129. _Capons_ or _Poulardes_ are almost too extravagant for My
Kitchen at Home, but may be either plain roasted or braised, as directed
for the turkey in the last, and served with peas, French beans, or sauce
jardinière, made as directed for the legs or shoulders of lamb, only for
jardinière, stewing the vegetables in the sauce you have made from your
braise, instead of the method there directed.
No. 130. _Fowls, with Mushroom Sauce._ Braise two fowls, trussed for
boiling, precisely as directed for braised turkey; when your sauce is
made, add a pottle of white button mushrooms, stew for half an hour in
the sauce, adding a little sugar, then stir in a liaison of one yolk of
egg mixed with a spoonful of cream, take it instantly from the fire,
dress the poularde upon your dish, and sauce over.
No. 131. _Fowls, with Spring Vegetables._ Braise a poularde as directed
for the turkey, and make a sauce from the braise as there directed; then
have twenty young carrots and twenty young turnips, lightly peeled, and
three parts boiled, with twenty small onions, drain and put them into
your sauce, which you have made as No. 136, with a good teaspoonful of
powdered sugar; stew them gently until tender, then dress the poularde
upon your dish, arrange the vegetables tastefully around, mix half a
gill of cream with the sauce, boil a few minutes, sauce over the whole
and serve.
No. 132. _Fowls Braised, Fricassée Sauce._ Braise the fowls as before,
and make the sauce from the braise, in which put a bunch of parsley,
fifty button onions, and a pottle of mushrooms, both well peeled; stew
half an hour, add a little sugar, salt, and a gill of cream, boil a few
minutes, sauce over and serve. Chickens may be dressed in either of the
above methods, calculating the time they require cooking by their size.
No. 133. _Roast Goose._ Pluck, draw, and truss a goose, fill the inside
with sage and onions, by cutting four large onions into small dice, and
put them into a stewpan with a few leaves of sage (chopped fine), and a
couple of well-boiled mealy potatoes, crumbled very small, add two
ounces of butter, and a little pepper and salt; when the onions become
tender stuff the goose, the day previous if time permit, which roast an
hour and a quarter before a moderate fire, serve plain, with a little
gravy on the dish, and apple sauce separate.
No. 134. _Ducks_ may also be stuffed and roasted as a goose; a few
apples may also be used with the stuffing instead of potatoes, for
either ducks or geese, if approved of.
No. 135. _Ducks à l’Aubergiste (or Tavern-keeper’s fashion)._ Truss one
or two ducks with the legs turned inside, put them into a stewpan with a
quarter of a pound of butter; place them over a slow fire, turning round
occasionally, until they have taken a nice brown colour, add two
spoonfuls of flour, mix well with them, add a quart of water, with half
a tablespoonful of salt and sugar, let simmer gently until the ducks are
done (but adding forty button onions well peeled as soon as it begins to
boil), keep hot; peel and cut ten turnips in slices, fry them in a
frying-pan with butter, drain upon a cloth, put them into the sauce, and
stew until quite tender; dress the ducks upon your dish, skim the fat
from the sauce, which has attained a consistency, pour round the ducks
and serve.
SIMPLIFIED ENTRÉES.
The word entrée is a French culinary term (universally known by the
nobility and gentry of Europe), signifying a corner, or made dish, in
which sauce is introduced, the importance of which is known in the
kitchens of the wealthy as forming the size and magnitude of a dinner.
Being considered as the principal dish upon which it is intended to dine
well, the wealthy epicure orders his cook to prepare a dinner of four,
six, or eight entrées, thus making a criterion for the second course,
which, in the opinion of real gourmets, is a secondary consideration of
delight, and very often left entirely to the cook. But when a lady of
moderate income is consulted, she very properly devotes all her
attention, good taste, and economy to the subject.
The entrées, however, which I am here about to describe, are very
economical; whilst those entrées of importance, which are so well known
for their excellence and unavoidable expense, I have left to those whose
means will better afford it, and content myself with here offering to my
readers those only with which I would be content in placing before my
friends at home.
My readers will find that certain made dishes, instead of being
expensive, tend to greater economy. Every ordinary cook might be perfect
in roasting and boiling a joint, but quite incapable of making a single
made dish to perfection, even from the remains of a joint. In a
tradesman’s family it often happens that he dines once or twice a week
from a Sunday joint, either in winter or summer; in the last it is
partly excusable, but, in the former, hot meat for such an important
meal is much more preferable, being more light than cold, and of course
digests more freely. To prove the truth of this argument, pickles are
continually used with cold meat to invigorate and open the appetite, and
facilitate digestion. I would always advise to take a little cold lunch,
and a hot late dinner, if circumstances permit, and _avoid_ as much as
possible a supper, particularly _a late one_.
SAUCES.--No. 136. For daily use I avoid making any foundation sauces,
but when I want to give a little party at home, I generally previously
provide a small quantity of white and brown sauce as follows:
Cut and chop a knuckle of veal, weighing about four pounds, into large
dice; butter the bottom of a large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of
butter, add two onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three cloves, half a
blade of mace, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and six of parsley tied in
a bunch; add a gill of water, place over a sharp fire, stirring round
occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with whitish
glaze, when fill up with three quarts of water, add a good teaspoonful
of salt, and let simmer at the corner of the fire an hour and a half,
keeping well skimmed, when pass it through a hair sieve into a basin; in
another stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter, with which mix six
ounces of flour, stirring over the fire about three minutes, take off,
keep stirring until partly cold, when add the stock all at once,
continually stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour; add half a
pint of boiling milk, stir a few minutes longer, add a little chopped
mushrooms if handy, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, until
required for use, stirring it round occasionally until cold; the above
being a simplified white sauce.
For a brown sauce I use the same proportion as for the white, but having
beef instead of veal for the stock, which must be made brown by placing
four large onions cut in halves at the bottom of the stewpan, which must
be well buttered, placing the meat over, standing upon the fire, and
drawing down to a brown glaze before filling up; the thickening must
also be made brown, by stirring a few minutes longer over the fire, and
the milk omitted. Sometimes I make both stocks in the same stewpan, pass
one half for the white sauce, and put a couple of burnt onions into the
remainder, allowing it to simmer an hour longer, when pass and use for a
brown sauce.
No. 137. _Melted Butter._ Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, with
which mix a good teaspoonful of flour, using a wooden spoon, add a
saltspoonful of salt, half a one of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and
half a pint of water, stir over the fire until just upon the point of
boiling, when take off, add two ounces more butter, and half a
tablespoonful of vinegar, keeping it stirred until quite smooth, and the
butter well melted, when pass through a hair sieve or tammie if required
(you can also use milk instead of water for the above); it is then ready
for use. In making melted butter great attention ought to be paid to the
above directions, it being almost in daily use.
No. 138. _New and Economical Lobster Sauce._ Break up a fresh lobster,
use the solid flesh for salad or any other purpose, pound the soft part
and shell together (in a mortar) very fine, place the whole in a
stewpan, cover with a pint of boiling water, place over the fire, and
let simmer ten minutes, when pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a
basin, and use for making melted butter as in the last, to which add a
little cayenne pepper and a piece of anchovy butter (see page 33,
Kitchen of the Wealthy) the size of a walnut; if any red spawn in the
lobster, pound and mix it with a small piece of fresh butter, and add to
the sauce with a little lemon-juice when upon the point of serving; an
anchovy pounded with the shells of the lobster would be an improvement;
some of the flesh may be served in the sauce.
No. 139. _Lobster Sauce à la Crème._ Cut up a small lobster into slices,
the size of half-crown pieces, put into a stewpan, pound the soft and
white part with an ounce of butter, and rub it through a sieve; pour
three spoonfuls of melted butter, and two of cream, over the slices in
the stewpan, add half a blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a
quarter ditto of pepper, and a little cayenne, warm gently, and when
upon the point of boiling add the butter and two spoonfuls of thick
cream, shake round over the fire until quite hot, when it is ready to
serve.
No. 140. _Lobster Sauce simplified._ Put the slices of lobster as above
into a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of milk, add a little salt, pepper,
cayenne, two cloves, and a quarter of a blade of mace, let boil, add a
piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a little
flour, shake round over the fire, and when getting thick, add half a
gill of cream; when quite hot it is ready to serve.
No. 141. _Shrimp Sauce_ is very excellent made by pounding half a pint
of shrimps with their skins, boiling ten minutes in three parts of a
pint of water, finishing as directed for lobster sauce (No. 138), and
always serving very hot.
No. 142. _Anchovy Sauce_ is made by adding a spoonful of Harvey sauce
and two of essence of anchovy, with a little cayenne, to half a pint of
melted butter; shrimps, prawns, or even blanched oysters may be served
in it.
No. 143. _Oyster Sauce._ Put two dozen of oysters into a stewpan with
their liquor, and two spoonfuls of water, add six peppercorns, and half
a blade of mace, blanch them until just set, drain the oysters upon a
sieve, catching the liquor in another stewpan, detach the beards from
the oysters, which put again into the liquor, place over the fire; when
beginning to simmer, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with
which you have mixed sufficient flour to form a paste, breaking it in
four or five pieces, shake round over the fire, when it thickens add a
gill of milk, season with a little cayenne, salt, pepper, and a few
drops of essence of anchovies, serve very hot.
_Another way._ Blanch and save the liquor as above, omitting the water;
reduce to half, add eight spoonfuls of melted butter made with milk,
season rather high, adding a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce and one of
essence of anchovy; it is then ready for use.
No. 144. _Caper Sauce._ Make half a pint of good melted butter, to which
add a tablespoonful of capers and a teaspoonful of their vinegar.
Observe, that all fish sauces are better too thick than too thin, the
fish being watery, the sauce would not envelope it if too thin.
No. 145. _To chop Onions, Herbs, &c._ Every practical cook knows how to
chop the above ingredients to perfection, but many plain cooks instead
of chopping, literally smash them with their knives, thus losing the
succulence and flavour, which becomes absorbed by the wood they are
smashed upon.
For onions, peel, and cut in halves lengthwise, then with a thin knife
cut each half in slices, leaving them jointed at the root; again cut
into slices contrarywise, and then from top to bottom, thus having cut
it into very small squares; then take the knife lightly with the right
hand, place two fingers of the left upon the point, and commence
chopping, lifting the knife entirely every stroke, not digging the point
into the board, and pressing heavily upon the handle, as is too commonly
the case; when chopped very fine put them into the corner of a clean
cloth, which rinse in water to wash them, squeeze quite dry in the
cloth, they will be then as white as possible, and quite ready for use.
Eschalots are chopped in the same manner, cutting first into small dice,
without cutting them in halves.
For parsley or herbs, previously wash very clean, take the stalks in
your left hand (when quite dry), pressing upon the leaves with your
fingers, holding the knife with your right hand, cutting as fine as
possible; chop as directed for the onions. By following the above
directions you will be enabled to chop them very fine, scarcely staining
the board; the above directions to some may appear superfluous, but the
difference made in the flavour of sauces, by their being well or badly
chopped, being so great, caused me to make these observations.
No. 146. _To make a Colouring or Browning from Sugar._ Put two ounces of
white powdered sugar into a middling-sized stewpan, which place over a
slow fire; when beginning to melt, stir round with a wooden spoon until
getting quite black, when set it in a moderate oven upon a trivet about
twenty minutes, pour a pint of cold water over, let dissolve, place in a
bottle, and use wherever directed in My Kitchen at Home.
ECONOMICAL MADE DISHES.
No. 147. _Fillet of Beef_ or a small rump steak is very excellent
dressed in the following new way:
Procure a piece of fillet of beef, weighing from three to four pounds,
which can be purchased in any butcher’s shop, being the under part of
the rump; trim it a little, taking off part of the skin, leaving a piece
of fat half an inch in thickness upon each side, cut it crosswise in
slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, making about six pieces, beat
lightly, giving them a roundish shape; place them upon a gridiron over a
sharp fire, season whilst broiling with about a saltspoonful of salt,
and the half of one of black pepper, turn them once or twice whilst upon
the gridiron, which process will keep the gravy in, and when done dress
them immediately upon a dish, in which you have put the following simple
but excellent sauce, which I usually make over an ordinary fire; put the
yolks of four eggs in a stewpan or iron saucepan, with half a pound of
fresh butter (rather firm) cut into slices, half a teaspoonful of salt,
a quarter ditto of pepper, the juice of half a lemon, and half a
tablespoonful of chopped parsley; set upon a slow fire, keep stirring
quickly with a wooden spoon in every direction, until becoming rather
thick, when remove it from the fire half a minute, still stirring, then
again upon the fire, stirring until the butter is quite melted, but
congealed with the yolks of eggs, forming a smooth thickish sauce;
should it, however, be too thick, add a little milk or cream, and if
requiring more seasoning add a little pepper and salt, with the juice of
the other half lemon; proceed the same for rump steak, but if for a
corner dish, the fillet would be preferable, as the steak would be too
large, appearing clumsy. The above quantity would be sufficient for a
party of ten, but a much smaller quantity might be made.
A great improvement would be to have four or five middling-sized
potatoes, peeled, cut in quarters lengthwise, and afterwards into thin
slices crosswise; have ready upon the fire a stewpan, containing lard or
dripping, when hot (which you may perceive by the smoke arising from
it, or by throwing a drop of water in, if sufficiently hot it will hiss
and snap), put in the slices of potatoes, and fry about ten minutes
until crisp, and a very light brown colour; care must be taken that the
fat is not too hot, or the potatoes would be burnt before they were
sufficiently cooked.
Another method of frying potatoes, although rather more extravagant, is
very simple and excellent: put a quarter of a pound of butter in a
stewpan or saucepan, and when melted put in twenty small new potatoes,
if in season, or potatoes cut as before, place over a sharp fire,
stirring them occasionally, until of a nice gold colour; should they
absorb all the butter, add a little more, when done sprinkle a little
salt over, and serve round the fillet or steak; this may be used in many
instances in the kitchens of the wealthy.
No. 148. _A new Steak._ Procure a piece of ribs of beef containing a
couple of bones, from which detach the meat, and cut three steaks
lengthwise, beat lightly with the cutlet-bat, trim a little, broil one
or two, seasoning them well, and serve with sauce and fried potatoes as
before.
No. 149. _Fillet_ or _Steak à la Maître d’Hôtel_. Cut, trim, and broil
the fillet or steaks, from either the rump or ribs of beef, as before
(always over a sharp fire); place them upon your dish, have ready two
ounces of butter, with which you have mixed a saltspoonful of salt, a
quarter ditto of white pepper, one of chopped parsley, and the juice of
half a lemon, rub all over the steaks, turning them three or four times,
the butter mixing with the gravy forms an admirable sauce; serve with
fried potatoes round as before.
The above steaks or fillets are also very excellent broiled as above,
and served with anchovy butter (page 33), instead of the butter prepared
as last directed, and using one ounce instead of two.
Should any of the above steaks be required plain broiled, to give them
an extra zest, sprinkle chopped eschalots in addition to the other
seasoning over previous to placing them upon the gridiron; a steak cut
of the ordinary size, would require ten minutes broiling over a good
fire. Mutton and lamb chops, or even cotelettes, are very good dressed
in the before-mentioned manners; a little glaze, if handy, is also an
improvement. For mutton chops, a little Harvey sauce and Chili vinegar
poured over just before taking from the gridiron renders them very
beautiful eating.
No. 150. _A new Mutton or Lamb Chop._ Having previously and successfully
introduced a new joint (the saddle-back), I thought I would also
introduce a new form of mutton or lamb chops, and adopted the following
one, as represented in the engraving, which is not only very novel, but
the manner in which the chops are cut, by jagging the meat, causes them
to eat much lighter and better, they being sawed off the saddle instead
of cut from the loin; proceed as follows:
Trim a middling-sized saddle of mutton, which cut into chops, half an
inch in thickness, with a saw, without at all making use of a knife;
then trim to the shape represented in the drawing; season well with salt
and pepper, place upon a gridiron over a sharp fire, turning them three
or four times, they will require about ten minutes cooking; when done
place them upon a dish, spread a small piece of fresh butter (if
approved of) over each, and serve. The bone keeping the gravy in whilst
cooking, is a very great advantage in having chops cut after the above
method. At home, when I have a saddle of mutton, I usually cut three or
four such chops from it, cook and rub maître d’hôtel butter over, and
serve them with fried potatoes round, using the remainder of the saddle
as a joint the next day.
[Illustration]
The above are also excellent seasoned, dipped into eggs, and
bread-crumbed previous to broiling; for lamb chops proceed precisely the
same, only broiling them a few minutes less.
No. 151. _Veal Cutlets._ Cut four cutlets from the neck, half an inch in
thickness, beat lightly with a chopper, and cut off the chine-bones,
season them well; have a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate, into
which dip them, then into bread-crumbs, take out, pat gently with a
knife, and broil rather more than ten minutes upon a gridiron over a
good fire, turning occasionally, keening them of a very light brown
colour; dress upon a dish, spreading a piece of the maître d hôtel
butter over each, turning them two or three times in the dish, and
serving very hot. Veal cutlets are also very good served with the new
sauce as for fillets of beef or steaks, and the fried potatoes around
them.
No. 152. _Pork Chops._ Take four chops from a loin of pork, each about
half an inch in thickness, beat them lightly, trim, season well with
pepper and salt, broil nearly a quarter of an hour over a good fire, and
serve very hot upon a dish, with or without apple-sauce in a boat.
No. 153. _Pork or Veal Chops Fried._ Put one ounce of butter in a sauté
or frying-pan, rub over the bottom, lay in four chops, well seasoned as
in either of the last two; place the pan over a moderate fire, when the
chops become coloured upon one side turn them over, they will require
turning two or three times before done; when done, and of a nice colour,
take them out, and place upon a dish; put a spoonful of chopped onions
in the pan, which fry until becoming of a brownish colour, then take off
as much of the fat as possible, add a teaspoonful of flour (mix well
with a wooden spoon), and moisten with half a pint of water; stir
quickly, add a bay-leaf, and when boiling season with half a
saltspoonful of pepper, two of salt, one of sugar, and two spoonfuls of
vinegar, stir over the fire until forming a sauce, when again lay in the
chops, let simmer five minutes, dress the chops upon a dish, add two
chopped gherkins to the sauce, which pour over and serve; a little brown
colouring (No. 146) added to the sauce would improve their appearance.
No. 154. _Hashed Beef_ is made from any description of roast beef. It
may also be made from stewed, but roast is preferable. Cut about a pound
and a half of meat into thin slices, using a small quantity of the fat;
lay them upon a dish, sprinkle a spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of
salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper, place the meat in a stewpan,
moisten with half a pint of water or light broth, if handy; add a little
colouring (No. 146) to give a nice brown colour, place it upon the fire,
allowing it to warm gently, stirring occasionally, simmering a quarter
of an hour, taste if requiring more seasoning, if so add a little and
serve very hot immediately. In making a hash of any description, avoid
having to keep it hot as much as possible, or it would become greasy,
and likewise prevent the hash boiling over the fire, which would cause
the meat to eat hard and tough. If the beef has been well roasted, as
described (page 639), the remainder, being underdone, makes an excellent
and very nutritious hash.
To vary any description of hash, it may be served upon a large piece of
buttered toast, or half a spoonful of chopped onions may be added with
the flour and seasoning; chopped parsley may also be added with a
spoonful of catsup, two of Harvey sauce, two of vinegar, or one of Chili
vinegar; four nice green gherkins in slices may also be added at the
time of serving. Some fresh mushrooms from the fields, cleaned, and
stewed in the hash, is also a great improvement, a bay-leaf also added
imparts a pleasant flavour. A little meat left upon the bones, well
peppered and broiled, are frequently served with the hash.
No. 155. _Remains of Salt Beef_, although very good cold, in winter is
very desirable made hot; one of the best methods of doing which is to
convert it into that old-fashioned dish entitled bubble-and-squeak; the
beef should be, as usual, rather underdone, and cut into slices not
thicker than a five-shilling piece, then put two ounces of butter in a
sauté or frying-pan, when melted lay in the beef, which place over a
quick fire, frying both sides of a yellowish brown colour, when take
them out upon a dish, keeping them hot; you have previously boiled six
or eight greens or one Savoy cabbage, which chop fine, season with four
saltspoonfuls of salt and one of black pepper, place in the same pan you
fried the beef in over the fire, keep turning them over until quite hot,
when dress upon a dish with the beef over, and serve. A few slices of
fat ought to be fried with the beef.
Another way of warming salt beef, is to cut slices and lay in a pan with
just sufficient water to cover them; place over the fire, add about an
ounce of fresh butter mixed with a little flour, a little Harvey sauce,
and a piece of glaze about the size of a walnut, if handy. Another way
would be to lay the slices in a saute or frying-pan well buttered, place
over the fire and fry a light brown colour, pour off as much of the fat
as possible, add a quarter of a pint of water, and a piece of butter the
size of a walnut, with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour,
shake round over the fire a minute or two, add two spoonfuls of
piccalilly cut in slices, two ditto of the liquor, and one of the
colouring (No. 146), and serve over when ready.
No. 156. _Ox Tails en Currie._ Have ready some ox tails dressed as
described in page 273 (they will keep several days in a basin covered
with their own stock), when wanted warm them in their stock, cut four
onions into very thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of
a pound of butter, fry over a slow fire until the onions become brown
and pulpy, when add a nicely boiled mealy potato (peeled), a
tablespoonful of currie-powder, and one of currie-paste, or one and a
half of the powder, mix all well together, moisten with three parts of a
pint of the stock from the tails; then add the tails, stirring them
round gently until well covered with the sauce, set over a slow fire to
stew very slowly for half an hour, moving them round occasionally,
finish with a little salt and the juice of half a lemon; dress upon a
dish pyramidically, pour the sauce, which must be rather thick, over,
and serve with rice boiled as directed (page 51) upon a separate dish.
Another way, for a change, would be to introduce four very ripe tomatas
at the same time with the potato and currie-powder, omitting the
lemon-juice, and adding half a teaspoonful of sugar. A tablespoonful of
currie-paste added to any description of hash would convert it into a
very good currie.
No. 157. _Ragout of Ox Tails._ Cut two ox tails into pieces two inches
in length, rub two ounces of butter over the bottom of a
convenient-sized stewpan, place in the pieces of tails, with half a
pound of streaked bacon cut into square pieces the size of walnuts,
place over a moderate fire, stirring occasionally until nicely browned,
but not in the least burnt, add two ounces of flour (mix well) and three
pints of water; when boiling and half cooked add a bunch of parsley,
with two bay-leaves, twenty young carrots, or pieces of old ones, and
twenty button onions, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a half ditto of
sugar, and a quarter ditto of pepper; let simmer until the tails and
vegetables are quite tender, keeping well skimmed, when take out and
dress them in pyramid upon mashed potatoes, garnish round with the
vegetables, pass the sauce through a hair sieve into another stewpan,
place over the fire, stir with a wooden spoon until adhering to the
back, when pour over the tails, and serve very hot.
No. 158. _Ox Cheeks_ are very delicate when well stewed, and may be
purchased very cheap; they require soaking all night, and about six
hours to blanch in salt water, until the flesh will detach easily from
the bone, when take it out, remove the bone, place some onion, carrot,
and turnip, in slices, in a large flat stewpan, with a piece of bacon, a
few sprigs of thyme, parsley, and two bay-leaves, cover with a little
stock (if any) or water, place the flesh from the cheek over, put in a
moderate oven until very tender, when take up, dress upon a dish, and
serve with a sharp sauce over.
Ox cheeks may also be served in currie, or converted into a ragout after
blanching, as directed for ox tails.
Should you happen to have the remains of a fresh ox tongue, it would be
very good cut in slices, warmed, and served with a sharp sauce, or
hashed; the remains of a pickled one may be used in any little made dish
of veal, or poultry, hereafter described; to some persons it is,
however, preferable cold.
No. 159. _Ox Kidneys_ are very good for breakfast or luncheon; cut the
kidneys into thin slices, avoiding the piece in the centre, put two
ounces of butter in a stewpan, with a little chopped eschalots, place
over the fire; when becoming a little browned add the kidneys, which
keep stirring for five minutes still over the fire, add half a
tablespoonful of flour (mix well), two glasses of sherry, two of water,
half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, one of chopped
parsley, and a bay-leaf, let simmer gently five minutes, not, however,
to boil, or they would become hard and indigestible; should the sauce be
too thin add a little butter and flour mixed together, it requires to be
sufficiently thick to envelope the kidneys; when done poor out upon a
dish, and serve very hot. A few raw mushrooms stewed with the kidneys is
also a great improvement.
A bullock’s heart is a favorite dish with some persons; soak an hoar in
lukewarm water to disgorge, dry, and stuff the interior with a good veal
stuffing, roast an hour and a half before a moderate fire, and serve
very hot, with a little veal sauce (see page 647) around; proceed the
same for calves’ or sheep’s hearts, but of course they will require less
time.
No. 160. _Calf’s Head._ Should you have any left from a previous dinner
it may be dressed in various ways. To hash calf’s head, cut into good
slices not too thin, or it would have a bad appearance; put a spoonful
of chopped onions in a stewpan, with a wineglassful of vinegar, six
peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a piece of glaze the size of
a walnut, and a gill of broth, reduce to half over the fire, then add
the slices of calf’s head and a gill more broth, season with a little
pepper and salt, when quite hot through add half an ounce of butter,
with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of flour, first breaking it
into four or five pieces, shake round over the fire until becoming a
little thickish, add a little colouring (No. 146) to give a light brown
colour; pour out upon your dish, and serve with a few slices of gherkins
sprinkled over.
Calf’s head may also be cut in slices, warmed, and served with some of
the sauces as directed for fillet of beef, or curried as for the
ox-tails (No. 156); hashed calf’s head, with a couple of spoonfuls of
currie-paste added, is also very excellent.
No. 161. _Calf’s Brains and Tongue._ Boil the tongue in stock or water
until tender, lay the brains in lukewarm water to disgorge, then
carefully take off all the skin, put about a quarter of a pound of
butter in a sauté-pan, rub all over the bottom, cut the brains in
slices, lay them in the pan, season with a little pepper, salt, and
lemon-juice, place over a moderate fire, and when set turn them over,
add about a gill of melted butter, and a little milk, if too thick,
season a little more if required, shake the sauté-pan round, moving the
brains from the bottom, but not breaking them, and pour upon a dish,
skin and trim the tongue, cut it in halves lengthwise, glaze and serve
dressed upon the brains. Sheep and lamb’s tongues and brains are dressed
in precisely the same manner as the calf’s.
No. 162. _Veal Cutlets, the English Method._ Procure a piece of fillet
of veal weighing about four pounds, from which (to the best advantage)
cut eight or ten pieces of the shape and size of fillets of fowl, season
lightly with a little pepper and salt, have a couple of eggs, well
beaten, upon a plate, into which dip the cutlets, and afterwards into
bread-crumbs, beat lightly; then cut four or five slices of streaked
bacon, which fry in a sauté or frying-pan; when done take out and lay in
the cutlets, which fry of a nice light brown colour, dress the bacon and
cutlets alternately upon your dish, pour as much fat as possible out of
the pan, into which pour a quarter of a pint of water, and the same of
melted butter; boil until becoming rather thickish, when add a
tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, a little colouring (No.
146), and a little pepper and salt, boil another second, pass through a
sieve over the cutlets, and serve. Veal cutlets cut and fried as above
may also be served upon some very light mashed potatoes, omitting the
sauce.
No. 163. _Sweetbreads._ I never can procure sweetbreads at home except
in the autumn or winter season of the year, so many families being then
out of town, they may be procured at a very reasonable price; I usually
dress them thus: lay them in water three or four hours to disgorge,
blanch two minutes in boiling water, take out and put them into another
stewpan, with a few slices of onions, carrot, turnip, a little parsley,
thyme, bay-leaf, six peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a small piece of
bacon, cover over with a little broth if any, place over the fire, and
let boil about twenty minutes, then take out, dry them on a cloth, egg
all over, throw into bread-crumbs, run a skewer through each, tie them
to a spit and roast of a nice brown colour before a sharp fire, a
quarter of an hour would be sufficient; they might also be browned in a
hot oven, or fried in very hot lard or dripping ten minutes; then,
however, they must be stewed rather longer; serve them with vegetable
garniture of any description, if peas, merely plain boiling them,
putting them in a stewpan, with a little sugar, pepper, salt, and a
piece of fresh butter, toss them round over the fire until very hot,
pour them into the dish, and dress the sweetbreads over, or serve with
French beans dressed also in the same manner, spinach dressed as
directed (page 43), or merely with the following sauce: put a gill of
melted butter into a stewpan, with a spoonful of Harvey or Reading
sauce, and a little catsup, boil altogether, and if too thick add a
little water. If I cannot meet with heart sweetbreads, I in general
satisfy myself with the throats.
No. 164. _Calf’s Liver Stewed, French fashion._ Procure a small delicate
liver, cut twenty pieces of fat bacon, three inches in length and a
quarter of an inch square, season with a little pepper, salt, and
chopped parsley, then with a larding-needle run them into the liver
crosswise, put two ounces of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan,
with half a pound of lean uncooked ham, keep stirring over a sharp fire
until the ham becomes rather brownish, then lay in the liver, cover the
stewpan, stir round occasionally until the liver has become quite firm
and of a brownish colour; then add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter
of one of pepper, forty button onions, twenty young carrots (or twenty
pieces of old, previously blanched), half a pint of water, a bunch of
parsley, with three sprigs of thyme and two bay-leaves (tied together),
four cloves, and a blade of mace, let simmer twenty minutes; then add
twenty new potatoes, or old ones cut of the same size, cover the
stewpan, and let stew gently until all the vegetables are done, when
take out the bunch of herbs, dress the liver upon a dish, with the
vegetables and ham around it, skim all the fat from the gravy in the
stewpan, pour over the vegetables and serve; if any remain, it is
excellent made hot the next day, or even to be eaten cold.
No. 165. _Calf’s Liver Fried._ Cut the liver into slices the eighth of
an inch in thickness, dip them in flour, and fry them in a sauté or
frying-pan, in which you have previously fried some slices of streaked
bacon, fry the liver until quite browned and rather crisp, when take out
and place it upon a dish with the bacon, pour as much of the fat as
possible from the pan, pour in a quarter of a pint of water, when
boiling add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have
mixed a teaspoonful of flour, shake the pan round over the fire until
becoming rather thickish, season with a little Harvey sauce, catsup,
pepper, and salt, if too thick add a little more water, pour over the
liver and serve. Or, for variation, after the liver is well fried, take
it out and put a tablespoonful of chopped onions in the pan, set upon
the fire a minute, then pour off the greater part of the fat, add a
teaspoonful of flour, mix well in, and half a pint of broth or water,
boil until forming a thickish sauce, season with pepper, salt, two
spoonfuls of vinegar, a little sugar, and half a teaspoonful of mixed
mustard, set upon the fire until quite hot, pour over the liver and
serve. Or liver may be served plain fried with bacon, without any sauce
whatever. Sheep or lamb’s liver may be dressed precisely in the same
manner.
With the remains of a joint of veal, either roasted, boiled, or braised,
I make mince, hashes, blanquettes, and even pies. For a blanquette
of veal cut about a pound into thin slices of the size of
half-crown-pieces, add also a few slices of cooked tongue, ham, or
streaked bacon, season well with about a teaspoonful of chopped onions,
half ditto of salt, and a quarter ditto of white pepper, add a gill of
broth or water, warm gently, and when quite hot add a piece of butter
the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour,
shake round over the fire, when becoming thickish add half a gill of
milk or cream, with which you have mixed the yolk of an egg, stir in
quickly, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve (it must not boil
after the egg and cream have been added) with triangular pieces of
toasted or fried bread round. A blanquette of lamb made in the same
manner is equally good. With the bones you may make a little stock by
chopping them up into small pieces, and putting them into a stewpan,
with an onion in slices, a bay-leaf, bunch of parsley, and a little raw
ham, add water according to the quantity of bones, and boil rather more
than half an hour, convert it into sauce by thickening with a little
butter and flour, and use for hash; to make which cut the meat into
small thin slices, put into a stewpan, with sufficient of the above
sauce to moisten it, let simmer ten minutes, add two spoonfuls of
vinegar and four gherkins in slices, season with a little white pepper
and salt; pour upon your dish and serve.
No. 166. _Minced Veal and Poached Eggs_ are also a very favorite dish;
from the remains of veal cut about a pound of the lean, with a little of
the fat, and two ounces of cooked ham into very small dice, put a
tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with half an ounce of
butter, place over the fire, keep stirring until the onions change
colour slightly, then stir in a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with
half a pint of stock or milk, let boil ten minutes, add the mince,
season well with white pepper and salt, when quite hot stir in a yolk of
egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, do not let boil
afterwards, finish with the juice of half a lemon, and pour upon your
dish; have ready poached six eggs, by having a stewpan upon the fire
with one quart of water, quarter of an ounce of salt, and a quarter of a
gill of vinegar, when boiling break in six eggs separately, let boil
from three to four minutes, draw off the fire, take them out with a
colander spoon, drain a moment upon a cloth, dress upon the mince, pour
a little melted butter over each, and serve with triangular pieces of
fried bread round.
Minced lamb, beef, or mutton is done the same, using stock or water
instead of milk, and letting the onions with the thickening become a
little brown over the fire, likewise omit the yolk of egg and cream,
serve with the eggs precisely the same; any kind of mince must be rather
thick that the eggs may rest on it. By finishing the minced veal with
the yolks of three eggs, stirring a moment over the fire until set, and
pouring upon a dish until cold, you can serve it in any shaped
croquettes you please, taking pieces from it of the size you may
require, shaping them with a knife, dipping twice into eggs and
bread-crumbs, patting them gently, frying a light brown colour in a
stewpan of hot lard or dripping, and serving upon a napkin garnished
with fried parsley; they may be made in oblong shapes, the size and
length of small sausages, and fried as above: they are then called
boudins.
Patties may also be made from cooked veal, preparing a blanquette as
before described, and leaving it upon a dish until cold; line six large
patty-pans very thinly with half puff paste (see page 480), lay some of
the veal in the centre of each, sprinkle a little water over, and cover
with sheets of the same paste of the thickness of a five-shilling piece,
egg over, crimp the edges a little with a knife, place a leaf of paste
upon the top of each, and bake about twenty minutes in a very hot oven
until the paste is well done.
The remains of poultry, game, or any other description of meat, may also
be converted into patties in the same method as above.
The remains of meat dressed as for the above patties is also very
excellent for larger pies, filling the dish with it, when cold covering
with paste, and baking in a rather warm oven.
No. 167. _Mutton Cutlets Sautés._ Cut eight cutlets from a neck of
mutton, as directed (page 294), and put them into a sauté-pan, with an
ounce of butter, season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire,
when becoming a little browned turn them over, when firm to the touch
they are done (which will take about ten minutes); take up and dress
them upon your dish, pour as much of the fat as possible from the pan,
add a quarter of a pint of water or broth, let boil until becoming a
thin glaze, add a little sugar and a spoonful of Harvey sauce, pour over
the cutlets and serve. Should you want a thick sauce you can obtain it
by adding a small piece of butter, with which you have mixed a little
flour, to the gravy in the sauté-pan, adding also a little colouring
(No. 146).
No. 168. _Mutton Cutlets Sautés, with Vegetables._ Dress the cutlets as
in the last, have some vegetables of all kinds (that is, carrots,
turnips, artichokes, and button onions), cut up small, stew them in a
little broth with a little sugar until tender, when pour them into the
sauté-pan you cooked the cutlets in, reduce until the stock becomes a
thin glaze, then dress the vegetables in the centre of the cutlets,
sauce over, and serve.
No. 169. _Mutton Cutlets, Irish Method._ Cut eight or ten mutton
cutlets, season well with pepper and salt, place them in a stewpan, just
cover them with water, let simmer gently twenty minutes, then add forty
button onions, and as many pieces of potatoes, cut with a scoop in
pieces a size larger; stew until tender, dress the cutlets in a circle
upon your dish, with the vegetables in the centre, skim off some of the
fat from the stock in the sauté-pan, reduce a little, sauce over, and
serve.
No. 170. _Mutton Cutlets Broiled._ Cut eight or ten cutlets, season well
with pepper and salt, dip them into eggs, then into bread-crumbs, beat
gently with a knife, have a little butter in a stewpan, which melt over
the fire; dip each cutlet into the butter, and again into bread-crumbs,
beat again lightly, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire;
when lightly coloured upon one side turn them over; they will require
about ten minutes to cook thoroughly; serve plain dressed upon your
dish.
Dressed as above they may likewise be served with a maître d’hôtel sauce
made thus: put half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan with a piece
of glaze the size of a walnut, when boiling add two ounces of maître
d’hôtel butter (see p. 33), shake the stewpan round over the fire; when
quite hot pour in the dish with the cutlets, have ready some thin slices
of potatoes fried as for the fillet of beef, dress in pyramid in the
centre, and serve.
No. 171. _Mutton Cutlets Harricoed._ Cut ten cutlets from a neck of
mutton, leaving them rather short, not beating them flat, and taking off
some of the fat; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, lay in the
cutlets, which well season with pepper and salt; set upon a moderate
fire, turning them round occasionally until of a lightish brown colour,
then add a good spoonful of flour; mix well, and moisten with a quart of
water, keep stirring until boiling, throw in twenty small onions, twenty
small pieces of carrots, and the same of turnips (each about the size of
walnuts), and a small bunch of parsley, with two bay-leaves; let simmer
until the vegetables are done, skim well, take out the cutlets, which
dress in crown upon a dish, place the vegetables in the centre, reduce
the sauce if required, which pour over and serve. Should it be
convenient, it would be as well to pass the vegetables by putting about
a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar into a stewpan; place over the
fire, and when melted add two ounces of butter and the vegetables, which
keep tossing over the fire until covered with a kind of glaze, when put
them into the stewpan with the cutlets; it gives the harrico quite a
peculiar and good flavour.
No. 172. _Ragout of Mutton en Currie._ Peel and slice four large onions,
which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, place over a
moderate fire, and when becoming lightly browned and pulpy lay in ten
cutlets as in the last; move round occasionally until a little brown,
when add a good spoonful of currie-powder and the half of one of flour;
mix well, moisten with a pint of water, let simmer twenty minutes, or
until the mutton is quite tender, finish with a little sugar, salt, and
lemon-juice, take out the cutlets, which dress in circle upon a dish,
have ready some boiled rice (p. 51) very hot, which dress in pyramid in
the centre; pass the sauce through a tammie, pour over the cutlets, and
serve.
No. 173. _Mutton Currie._ Peel and slice four large onions as in the
last, fry the same, have ready two pounds of lean mutton cut into square
pieces the size of walnuts, put into the stewpan with the fried onions;
let remain ten minutes over the fire, stirring frequently, then add a
tablespoonful of currie-powder and one of currie-paste; mix well in, let
remain over a slow fire until the mutton is tender, season with a little
salt and lemon-juice, pour out upon your dish, and serve with boiled
rice separate.
Lamb cutlets are dressed precisely as the mutton; but when bread-crumbed
and broiled they are very good served with peas or French beans,
previously boiled, and placed in a stewpan with an ounce of fresh
butter, a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when quite hot stir in half a
gill of cream, with which you have well mixed the yolk of an egg, stir
in quickly, pour out upon your dish, dress the cutlet over, and serve.
No. 174. _Pork Cutlets Sautés._ Cut six or eight good-sized cutlets from
the neck, of the same shape as the mutton, lay them in a buttered
sauté-pan, season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire; when
done lay them upon a plate, pour some of the fat from the sauté-pan, add
a good tablespoonful of chopped onions, pass over the fire a minute,
then add a teaspoonful of flour; moisten with half a pint of broth or
water, with a piece of glaze added, season a little more, add a bay-leaf
and a teaspoonful of vinegar, with one of mustard, mix well, lay in the
cutlets until quite hot, when dress upon a dish, sauce over, and serve.
This sauce is good with any kind of cutlets, but especially pork.
No. 175. _Pork Cutlets aux Cornichons._ Cut six or eight cutlets from a
middling-sized neck of pork, season well with pepper and salt, dip in
eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into grated crust of bread (not
too brown); put two ounces of lard or butter into a sauté or frying-pan,
lay in the cutlets and fry very slowly; when done place them upon a
dish; keep hot, pour some of the fat from the pan, add a good
teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth or
water with a piece of glaze, add half a wineglassful of vinegar, a
little salt, pepper, and six gherkins in slices, place the cutlets in
the pan to warm gently in the sauce, then dress them upon a dish, sauce
over, and serve.
No. 176. _Pork Cutlets, Sauce demi Robert._ Cut eight cutlets from a
neck as before, season well with pepper and salt, sprinkle chopped
onions and parsley over upon both sides, beating the cutlets lightly to
make them adhere, then dip them into eggs well beaten upon a plate, and
then into bread-crumbs; pat them lightly, have some clarified butter in
a stewpan, into which dip the cutlets, and again into bread-crumbs, well
covering them, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, broiling
a nice light brown colour; when done dress them upon a dish. Have ready
the following sauce: cut two large onions into very small dice, put them
into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, fry of a light yellow colour,
add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth
and two spoonfuls of vinegar, season well, let boil, skim, and reduce,
until rather thick, when add a spoonful of mixed mustard, one of
colouring (No. 146); sauce in the centre of the cutlets and serve.
No. 177. _Hashed Pork._ Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions into a
stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and
a bay-leaf, reduce to half, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add half a
pint of broth or water, cut some pork previously cooked into thin small
slices, season well upon a dish with pepper and salt, shake a good
teaspoonful of flour over, mix all together, and put into the stewpan;
let simmer gently ten minutes, pour out upon your dish, and serve with
slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard may be added if approved of,
or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is excellent.
The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if required hot
may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a buttered sauté or
frying-pan, with a little broth, or merely fried in the butter, and
served with a puree of winter peas, made by boiling half a pint of peas
until tender (tied up in a cloth); when done put them into a stewpan
with two ounces of butter; season with pepper and salt, add a gill of
milk or cream, pour into the dish, and dress the pork over.
No. 178. _Pig’s Liver._ Procure a nice pig’s liver with the caul, cut
the liver into good-sized slices of the shape of hearts, season with a
little pepper, salt, and cayenne, sprinkle chopped eschalots and dried
sage over, and fold each piece of liver in a piece of the caul; put some
butter in a sauté or frying-pan, lay them in, place over the fire, let
fry rather quickly, not too dry; when done it will be a beautiful
colour; take out and dress in circle upon your dish; have ready the
following sauce: put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with
one of catsup, and two of Harvey or Worcestershire sauce; when boiling
pour over the liver and serve.
To plain fry it, cut in slices, season with pepper and salt, dip in
flour, or eggs and bread-crumbs, fry a light brown in butter or lard,
dress in a circle upon your dish, pour a gill of water into the pan, add
a little Harvey sauce and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, with
which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour; let boil a minute, add
a little pepper and salt, sauce over and serve.
No. 179. _Pigs’ Kidneys._ Cut them open lengthwise, season well with
pepper and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, dip into bread-crumbs,
with which you have mixed some chopped parsley and eschalot, run a
skewer through to keep them open, and broil for about a quarter of an
hour over a good fire; when done place them upon a dish, have ready an
ounce of butter, with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a
little pepper and salt, and a teaspoonful of French or common mustard,
place a piece upon each of the kidneys, place in the oven for one minute
and serve. Pigs’ kidneys may also be sautéd as directed for ox kidneys
(No. 159).
No. 180. _Black Puddings._ Very few people take the trouble to do them
at home, it being part of the business of the pork butcher to prepare
such delicacies. I shall, however, here describe a very simple method
for making them more palatable than those purchased in England, which
have so much spice in them as to entirely destroy their delicate
flavour. Cut into rather small dice twenty large onions, having cut off
the roots, being hard, put them into a stewpan with half a pound of lard
or butter, let stew gently, cut three pounds of pig’s flead, free from
skin, into small dice, have ready boiled six heads of endive chopped
fine, and put into the stewpan with the onions, add two ounces of salt,
a saltspoonful of pepper, half a nutmeg, grated, and four spoonfuls of
parsley, chopped with a little thyme and bay-leaf; then add six pints of
pig’s blood, mix well, leaving no lumps; if too thin add a few handfuls
of bread-crumbs, or half a pound of well-boiled rice; have ready the
small intestines, which well scrape and wash in salt and water, tie one
end upon a tin funnel, having a piece a yard in length, closing it at
the other end, fill with the above preparation by pressing through a
funnel; take off the funnel, tie up the end, and put them into a stewpan
of nearly boiling water, let simmer twenty minutes, pricking them
occasionally with a pin; when no blood oozes out they are done; take up
and place them upon a dish until cold; when ready to serve cut into
pieces four inches in length, cut through the skin at different places,
broil ten minutes over a sharp fire, serve plain, but very hot.
These puddings are best made whilst the blood is still warm from the
pig, which if killed at home, the other ingredients may be prepared
previously. The endive may be omitted, but for a real epicure procure it
if possible; they are served in France on the best of tables, and are
quite worthy of that honour. Many kinds of black puddings are also made
in Scotland, where they more frequently use sheep’s blood, using the
interior of the sheep, fat and all, in the same proportions as if made
of a pig, adding oatmeal, omitting part of the onions, and using the
larger entrails.
It being usual in this country to introduce leeks, you must then omit
the bread-crumbs and rice, or part of the onions. To prevent the blood
curdling, it must be salted, by adding a handful of salt, and whisking
well for ten minutes as soon as you obtain it from the pig.
Rice well boiled in broth but not too much so, is an excellent addition
to black puddings (half a pound for the above quantity being quite
sufficient), or grated bread; leeks also may be used instead of endive,
or both may be omitted. I have mentioned these different articles, that
if one cannot be procured, another might be used instead, fill also very
even, mixing fat and all well together, carefully avoid letting any air
get in, or they would burst in boiling.
No. 181. _Excellent Sausage Cakes._ Chop some lean pork very fine,
having previously detached all the skin and bone, and to every pound of
meat add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt,
a saltspoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young
green chopped onions, and a little chopped parsley; when the whole is
well chopped put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three
eggs; then have ready a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces large enough
to fold a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg, which wrap
up, keeping the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil very
gently over a moderate fire.
No. 182. _Pigs’ Feet._ Procure six pigs’ feet, nicely salted, which boil
in water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until well done, cut
each one in halves, take out the long bone, have some sausage meat as in
the last, and a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces each large enough to
fold half a foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat, when well wrapped
up broil slowly half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when
the pigs’ feet are well boiled, egg over, and throw them into some
grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley; broil
a nice colour and serve with a little plain gravy.
MADE DISHES FROM POULTRY.
No. 183. _Blanquettes of Turkey._ With the remains of a roasted or
boiled turkey you may make a very nice blanquette, cutting the meat into
small thin slices, chop up the bones, and put them into a stewpan with
an onion, half a blade of mace, and a very little lean ham or bacon,
just cover with water, boil twenty minutes, and with the stock make a
white sauce as directed (No. 7, Kitchen of the Wealthy), put the slices
into a stewpan, just cover with a little of the sauce, add a little
white pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, make all hot together, not,
however, allowing it to boil, finish with three tablespoonfuls of cream,
mixed with the yolk of an egg, stir in quickly, pour out upon a dish,
and serve with triangular scippets of fried or toasted bread round. When
cucumbers are in season I frequently use one, cutting it in pieces two
inches in length, which again split into three, peel, and take out all
the seeds, put them into a stewpan, with a few chopped onions, a little
butter and sugar, and stew gently over a slow fire until tender; five
minutes before serving add them to the blanquette, they being a great
improvement.
No. 184. _Boudins of Turkey._ Cut up all the flesh remaining upon a
turkey into small dice, if about a pound and a half, put a teaspoonful
of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a piece of butter of the size of
two walnuts, pass a few seconds over the fire, then add half a
tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and the mince, which moisten with a
pint of stock made from the bones as in the last, simmer some time,
keeping it moved, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, finish
with the yolks of three eggs, which stir in quickly over the fire, not
allowing it to boil afterwards, pour out upon a dish until cold; just
before ready to serve, divide it into equal parts, roll out each to
about the size of small eggs, shaping them to fancy, egg and bread-crumb
twice over, fry in very hot lard or dripping of a light brown colour,
and serve. A little ham or tongue (should you have any left) cut small,
and mixed with the mince would be a great improvement.
No. 185. _Turban of Croquettes._ Croquettes are made precisely as the
last, but not more than half the size; when done, dress them in crown
upon a border of mashed potatoes, and have ready some of the blanquette
of turkey, which serve in the centre.
No. 186. _Minced and Grilled Turkey._ Detach the leg, wing, or take off
the best part of the turkey remaining, which season well with pepper and
salt, and broil over a good fire, have ready prepared a mince from the
remaining flesh of the turkey, made as directed for the boudins, but
omitting the yolks of eggs; when quite hot and well seasoned pour into
your dish, and dress the broiled piece upon it.
No. 187. _Devilled Turkey._ Cut up the remains of your turkey into
good-sized pieces or joints, if sufficient, cut incisions crosswise upon
each piece, and well rub them with cayenne pepper, broil quickly over a
sharp fire, dress them in your dish, and have ready the following sauce:
put a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan with a
wineglassful of Chili vinegar, reduce to half, add half a pint of thin
melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of catsup, and two of Worcestershire
sauce, boil about a quarter of an hour, stir in two ounces of fresh
butter, pour over and serve. Many persons like the above best dry, so it
would be as well to serve the sauce separate in a boat, or a little
plain gravy only underneath. The remains of poulardes, capons, or fowls
may be dressed precisely as directed for the turkey.
No. 188. _Goose Hashed._ The remains of a goose is only fit for hashing,
or devilling, for which proceed as last directed; when for hashing put a
spoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, pass
over the fire until becoming rather brown, when add a tablespoonful of
flour, mix well, cut up the remains of a goose into moderate-sized
pieces, season with pepper and salt, add about a pint of stock or water,
let simmer ten minutes, when pour out upon a dish and serve. For a
variation, a little sage and a couple of apples sliced and cooked in the
sauce is very good.
No. 189. _Stewed Duck and Peas._ Procure a duck trussed with the legs
turned inside, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter and a
quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, let remain over a fire, stirring
occasionally until lightly browned, when add a good tablespoonful of
flour (mix well) and a pint of broth or water, stir round gently until
boiling, when skim, and add twenty button onions, a bunch of parsley,
with a bay-leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a quarter of an hour, then
add a quart of nice young peas, let simmer until done, which will take
about half an hour longer, take out the duck, place it upon your dish
(taking away the string it was trussed with), take out the parsley and
bay-leaf, season the peas with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce
a little if not sufficiently thick, pour over the duck and serve.
No. 190. _Duckling with Turnips_ is a very favorite dish amongst the
middle classes in France. Proceed as in the last, but instead of peas
use about forty pieces of good turnips cut into moderate-sized square
pieces, having previously fried them of a light yellow colour in a
little butter or lard, and drained them upon a sieve; dress the duck
upon a dish as before, season the sauce with a little pepper, salt, and
sugar, reduce until rather thick, a thin sauce not suiting a dish of
this description; the turnips must not, however, be in purée; sauce over
and serve.
The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as
directed for goose, and for variety, should peas be in season, a pint
previously boiled may be added to the hash just before serving. The sage
and apple must in all cases be omitted.
No. 191. _Fricassee of Fowl or Chicken._ Cut a fowl or chicken into
eight pieces, that is, the two wings and legs dividing the back and
breast into two pieces each, wash well, put them into a stewpan and
cover with water, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, a
good bunch of parsley, four cloves, and a blade of mace, let boil twenty
minutes, pass the stock through a sieve into a basin, take out the
pieces of fowl, trim well, then in another stewpan put two ounces of
butter, with which mix a good spoonful of flour, moisten with the stock,
and put in the pieces of fowl, stir occasionally, until boiling, skim
well, add twenty button onions, let simmer until the onions are tender,
when add a gill of cream, with which you have mixed the yolks of two
eggs, stir in quickly over the fire, but do not let boil, take out the
pieces, dress in pyramid upon your dish, sauce over and serve.
No. 192. _Fricassee of Fowl with Mushrooms._ Proceed as in the last, but
add twenty mushrooms (peeled, if very black), not too large, about ten
minutes before adding the cream and yolks of eggs.
No. 193. _Currie of Fowl, Oriental Fashion._ Peel and cut two large
onions into thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of
butter, fry them over a slow fire until lightly browned and quite pulpy,
then add a good tablespoonful of currie-powder, and one of currie-paste,
mix well, add half a pint of broth or water, let boil, keeping it
stirred, then have a fowl cut into eight pieces, which put in the
stewpan, cover well with the currie, add half a pint of cream, let
simmer gently three quarters of an hour over a slow fire, stirring
occasionally, take out the pieces, dress pyramidically upon a dish, pour
the sauce over, and serve with rice plain boiled as directed (page 51)
on a separate dish.
No. 194. _Broiled Fowl._ Procure a fowl trussed as for boiling, cut out
the back-bone and press quite flat, season well with pepper, salt, and
chopped eschalots, place in a sauté-pan, fry upon both sides, take out,
egg over with a paste-brush, dip into bread-crumbs, place upon the
gridiron, over a moderate fire, and broil a very light brown colour,
glaze over, if any, and serve with a little plain gravy, or mushroom
sauce, made by putting half a pint of melted butter into a stewpan, with
about twenty button mushrooms, well washed, let simmer ten minutes, add
two tablespoonfuls of catsup, and two of Harvey sauce, finish with a pat
of butter, pour the sauce in the dish, dress the fowl over and serve. I
very frequently also serve it at home with a sauce à la tartare made as
directed page 19.
No. 195. _Fowl Sautéd in Oil._ Cut a fowl in pieces as described for the
fricassee, and put them into a stewpan, with four spoonfuls of oil,
place over the fire and when of a light brown colour add a good
tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and moisten with a pint of broth or
water, let simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping well skimmed, add a raw
truffle cut in slices, or a few mushrooms, season with a little pepper,
salt, sugar, and a little scraped garlic the size of a pea, take out the
pieces of fowl, which dress pyramidically upon your dish, reduce the
sauce over the fire, keeping it stirred until adhering to the back of
the spoon, when pour over and serve.
No. 196. _Fricassee of Rabbits._ Cut two nice young rabbits into very
neat joints, or the legs only may be used, and put them into lukewarm
water to disgorge for half an hour, take out and put them into a stewpan
with a large onion cut into slices, two cloves, a blade of mace, a
little parsley, one bay-leaf, and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon
cut in dice; just cover with water, let simmer a quarter of an hour,
keeping it well skimmed, pass the stock through a sieve, and proceed
precisely as for the fricassee of fowl, page 689.
No. 197. _Gibelotte of Rabbits._ Cut two young rabbits into joints as in
the last, cut also half a pound of streaked bacon into dice, fry the
bacon in butter in a stewpan, then put in the pieces of rabbits; when
slightly browned add a good spoonful of flour, mix well, and moisten
with rather more than a pint of water, season with a little salt and
pepper, when beginning to boil skim well, add fifty button onions, and a
few button mushrooms, if any, let simmer a quarter of an hour, take out
the pieces of rabbit, which dress in pyramid upon a dish; let the sauce
boil, keeping it stirred, until the onions are quite tender, and the
sauce thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, when add a little
colouring, pour over the rabbit and serve.
No. 198. _Currie of Rabbit._ Cut four middling-sized onions and two
apples in slices, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter,
place over a moderate fire, stirring occasionally, until the onions are
slightly browned and quite pulpy, when add two tablespoonfuls of
currie-powder and one of currie-paste; mix well, and moisten with half a
pint of stock or water, let boil; have ready a couple of young rabbits
cut into joints, and fried in butter in a sauté or frying-pan of a nice
brown colour, put into the currie sauce, season with a little salt and
juice of lemon, let stew very gently over a very slow fire, stirring
occasionally, until the rabbit is quite tender, when dress upon your
dish, and serve with rice, plain boiled, separate.
The legs only of the rabbits may be dressed in either of the foregoing
ways, should the fillets be required for other purposes.
No. 199. _Rabbit Pies._ Cut two or three rabbits up in joints, and a
pound of streaked bacon in slices; butter a pie-dish, lay some of the
slices of bacon upon the bottom, dip the pieces of rabbits into flour,
place a layer of them over the bacon, season well with pepper and salt,
then add another layer of bacon, then rabbit, again seasoning,
proceeding thus, building them in a dome above the edge of the dish;
have ready a pound of half puff paste made as directed (page 480), with
which cover them, ornamenting the top with leaves; egg over lightly, and
bake about an hour and a half in a moderate oven, put half a pint of
good gravy in with a funnel, and serve.
Rabbits plain boiled and served with onion sauce are also very
excellent; make the sauce thus: peel and cut six large onions into very
small dice, put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, pass five
minutes over the fire, keeping it stirred, add two ounces of flour, mix
well, moisten with a pint and a half of milk, season with a little white
pepper, salt, and sugar, keep stirring over the fire until the onions
are quite tender, and it becomes rather a thickish sauce, when serve
over the rabbit.
The remains of rabbits may be warmed and served with the above sauce,
made into blanquettes, or minced as directed for turkeys or fowls.
No. 200. _Pigeon Pie._ Procure four pigeons, but not trussed, and cut
off the feet; have a nice tender rump-steak, well seasoned, which dip in
flour and lay at the bottom of a buttered pie-dish; place the pigeon
over, elevating their tails to meet in the centre, season well with
pepper and salt, place a piece of fat bacon over the breast of each
bird, sprinkle a few chopped eschalots over, have six eggs boiled, the
yolks of which place in the dish, pour in half a pint of water, and
cover the pie with a pound of half puff paste made as directed (page
480), ornamenting the top with leaves of paste, sticking the pigeons’
feet in the centre, and brushing eggs lightly over the top; bake about
an hour and a half in a moderate oven. Lamb or veal may be used instead
of the beef at the bottom, if preferred, and the whole of the eggs, each
cut in four lengthwise, instead of the yolks only.
No. 201. _Pigeons in Compote._ Put half a pound of lean bacon, cut into
large dice, in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, pass a few
minutes over the fire, then have three pigeons trussed with their legs
turned inside, place them in the stewpan with the bacon, breasts
downwards, let remain until becoming of a light brown colour, moving
them round occasionally; add a tablespoonful of flour, move round until
becoming a little browned, moisten with a pint, or a little more, water,
mix well, add a good bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, thirty button
onions, a little pepper and salt, let simmer three quarters of an hour,
skimming well, dress the pigeons upon a dish, with the bacon and onions
round, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, take out the parsley
and bay-leaf, pour over and serve.
No. 202. _Stewed Pigeons with Peas._ Proceed precisely as in the last,
but adding nearly a quart of very fresh peas with the onions and
parsley, omitting the bay-leaf; dress the pigeons upon a dish, pour the
peas and sauce over when ready to serve.
GAME.--No. 203. _Pheasants, Partridges, Grouse, Black Game, Woodcocks,
etc._, by the greater part of the population are preferred plain
roasted, which is, in my opinion, the best; but by way of change, and
for the method of dressing the remains of any description of birds, I
have given the few following simple receipts:
No. 204. _Small Pheasants, the Miller’s Fashion._ Roast a pheasant as
directed (page 403), previously dipping it in flour, and occasionally
shaking flour over whilst roasting, thus it will be very crisp and keep
nearly white; put the crumb of two French rolls in a stewpan, with half
a pint of milk, a small eschalot, a bay-leaf, an ounce of butter, and a
little pepper and salt; let boil, take out the eschalot and bay-leaf,
place a piece of buttered toast upon your dish, pour the sauce over,
dress the pheasant upon the top, and serve; a little gravy may also be
served separate in a boat.
No. 205. _Pheasant with Cabbage._ Procure a nice white-heart winter
cabbage, which cut in quarters, and blanch five minutes in boiling
water, drain quite dry, cut off part of the stalk, season well with
salt, place it in a stewpan, with half a pound of streaked bacon and a
pint of broth, and stew gently for about half an hour; then have a
pheasant about three parts roasted, thrust it into the cabbage whilst
hot, and let the whole stew gently together half an hour longer; take
out the pheasant and cabbage, squeezing it to the sides of the stewpan
to extract the stock, dress the cabbage in pyramid upon your dish, with
the pheasant upon the top, dress the bacon, cut in slices, around, skim
the stock well, let reduce to half, pour round and serve.
No. 206. _Hashed Pheasant._ From the remains of a pheasant previously
served, make a hash in the following manner: cut it up into smallish
pieces and put them into a stewpan, with a little flour, half a glass of
port wine, a little pepper and salt, and a bay-leaf, and sufficient
broth (or water with a piece of glaze in it) to moisten it; let simmer
very gently five minutes, take out the pieces, dress them upon your
dish, pass the sauce through a hair sieve over, and serve.
No. 207. _A Plain Salmi of Pheasants._ Cut off and trim well the best
pieces remaining of pheasants, previously served, and put them into a
stewpan; then in another stewpan put the bones and trimmings (broken up
small), with an onion in slices, a little parsley, a bay-leaf, four
peppercorns, and a glass of sherry, boil a few minutes; then stir in a
tablespoonful of flour, and moisten by degrees with a pint of broth (or
water with a piece of glaze), boil about ten minutes, keeping it
stirred; when thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon, pass
through a tammie or fine sieve, into the other stewpan over the pieces
of pheasants, warm altogether gently, not allowing it to boil, colour a
little brown with half a spoonful of colouring (page 673), take out the
pieces, dress in pyramid sauce over, and serve with scippets of fried or
toasted bread, cut in the shape of hearts, round.
The remains of pheasants may be minced and served with eggs boiled five
minutes, and the shells taken off, or made into boudins or croquettes as
directed for turkey (page 687), as may any other description of game.
No. 208. _Grouse, Scotch Fashion._ Plain roast the grouse, dress them
upon toast on your dish, and serve with plain melted butter poured over
them; they may also be dressed in any of the ways directed for
pheasants, with the exception of being stewed with the cabbage; black
game is dressed precisely the same as the grouse.
No. 209. _Partridges à la Jardinière._ Have a plain round tin cutter,
with which cut about forty pieces of carrot and turnip, each about the
thickness of a quill, and half an inch in length; put them into a
stewpan with twenty button onions, two ounces of butter, and a
teaspoonful of powdered sugar; pass over a sharp fire until the
vegetables become covered with a thinnish glaze, when add a
tablespoonful of flour (mix well) and a pint of stock or gravy; let
simmer until the vegetables are tender, keeping it well skimmed. Roast
two partridges rather underdone, which put into the sauce twenty minutes
before serving; let simmer very gently, skim off all the fat, dress the
birds upon a dish, pour the sauce and vegetables over, and serve.
No. 210. _Partridges with Cabbage._ Proceed exactly as described for the
pheasant, but using two birds instead of one: if convenient, it would be
a great improvement to lard the breasts of the birds with fat bacon.
No. 211. _Partridges sautéd with Mushrooms._ Divide two partridges each
into halves, beat them a little flattish, put two or three
tablespoonfuls of salad-oil into a flat stewpan, lay in the partridges,
the inner side downwards, first seasoning with a little pepper, salt,
and chopped eschalots; place over a moderate fire, put a cover upon the
stewpan, and let remain until of a light brown colour; remove the lid,
turn the partridges over, and let remain until coloured the other side;
then pour off a little of the oil, add a tablespoonful of flour, turn
round until well mixed, add a good glassful of sherry, half a pint of
stock or water, and twenty small button mushrooms; let simmer until the
partridges are tender, and the sauce thick enough to adhere to them;
having kept it well skimmed, season with a little pepper, salt, and
sugar, if required; lay the partridges upon a dish, sauce over, and
serve.
The remains of partridges may be hashed or served in a plain salmi,
precisely as directed for pheasants.
No. 212. _Woodcocks, Downshire Fashion._ Plain roast the woodcocks as
directed (page 407), catching their tails upon toast, upon which, when
done, dress the birds upon a dish; pour a thick melted butter (with
which you have mixed the yolk of an egg and a little cream) over,
sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs, salamander a light brown colour, and
serve with a little gravy round.
No. 213. _Woodcocks à la Chasseur._ Roast two woodcocks rather
underdone, catching the interior upon a large piece of toast; when done,
cut each one in four, and place in a stewpan with the remainder of the
interior, chopped small; add a little pepper and salt, a glass of
sherry, a little chopped eschalots, parsley, the juice of half a lemon,
and half a gill of broth; let simmer a few minutes, dish rather high
upon the toast, sauce over, and serve.
No. 214. _Hashed Woodcocks._ Should you have any remaining from a
previous dinner, cut each one in four or more pieces; chop all that
remains in the interior, which mix with a small piece of butter, a
spoonful of bread-crumbs, and a little chopped parsley, make six
croutons in the shape of hearts from a piece of toasted bread, spread
the above preparation upon each, and place a short time in the oven;
hash the pieces as directed for the pheasant, dress in pyramid on a
dish, with the croutons round, sauce over, and serve.
No. 215. _Snipes à la Minute._ Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a
stewpan, over which lay six snipes, breasts downwards; add a spoonful of
chopped onions, one ditto of parsley, a little grated nutmeg, half a
teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; set over a brisk fire
seven or ten minutes (according to the size of the birds), stirring
occasionally, then add the juice of two lemons, two glasses of sherry or
bucellas wine, and a spoonful of finely-grated crust of bread; let the
whole simmer a few minutes, dress the birds upon a dish, mix the sauce
well, pour over, and serve.
No. 216. _Plovers, with English raw Truffles._ Put a quarter of a pound
of butter in a stewpan, over which place four plovers, breasts
downwards, and eight raw truffles, well washed, peeled, and cut into
thickish slices; add also two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of
salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; pass the whole ten minutes over a
sharp fire, stirring occasionally; add half a tablespoonful of flour,
mix well, moisten with a gill of broth and a glass of white wine, let
simmer ten minutes longer, skim well, dress the birds upon a dish,
reduce the sauce, add a little sugar and the juice of a lemon, sauce
over, and serve.
No. 217. _Wild Duck._ Truss as directed (p. 688, No. 189), rub all over
with the liver, making it quite red, and roast twenty minutes before a
good fire, then with a sharp knife cut eight incisions down the breast;
you have put an ounce of butter into a stewpan with a quarter of a
saltspoonful of cayenne, the rind of an orange, free from pith, cut in
strips, blanched in boiling water, and well drained upon a sieve, and
the juice of a lemon; warm over the fire, and when melted, but not oily,
pour over the duck, and serve.
No. 218. _Hashed Wild Duck._ Cut up the remains of a duck or ducks into
neat pieces, and put into a stewpan with half or a tablespoonful of
flour, depending upon the quantity; mix well, moisten with a glass or
two of wine, and sufficient broth or water to make a thickish sauce,
season well, add a little Harvey sauce, mushroom catsup, a little sugar,
and cayenne pepper; let simmer but not boil, take out the pieces, which
dress upon toast, reduce the sauce, pour over, and serve. A little
colouring may be added if approved of.
No. 219. _Widgeons._ Truss as for wild ducks, rub over with some of
their livers, chop up the remainder, which mix with a few bread-crumbs,
a little chopped lemon-peel, chopped parsley, and an egg, with which
stuff the interior; roast nearly as long as for the wild duck before a
very sharp fire, dress upon toast on a dish, and have ready the
following sauce: put half a glass of port wine into a stewpan, with a
teaspoonful of chopped eschalot, a little salt, pepper, and cayenne;
boil a few minutes, add the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of fresh
butter, sauce over, and serve. Widgeons are hashed in the same manner as
described for wild duck.
No. 220. _Teal, a new Method._ Procure four, draw them, then put half a
pound of butter upon a plate, with a little pepper, grated nutmeg,
parsley, a spoonful of grated crust of bread, the juice of a lemon, and
the liver of the teal; mix well together, and with it fill the interior
of the teal; cover them with slices of lemon, fold in thin slices of
bacon, then in paper, and roast twenty minutes before a sharp fire; take
off the paper, brown the bacon, dress them upon a slice of thick toast,
letting the butter from the teal run over it, and serve very hot.
No. 221. _Teal à la sans Façon._ Roast four teal quite plain, prepare a
quarter of a pound of butter, as above, with the omission of the livers,
which place in a stewpan over the fire, stirring quickly, until forming
a kind of sauce; add some fillets from the pulp of a lemon, sauce over,
and serve. The remains of teal also make an excellent hash.
No. 222. _Larks à la Minute._ Proceed as directed for snipes à la
minute, previously stuffing them with their livers, as directed for
widgeons, adding a few mushrooms at the commencement, and not letting
them stew too quickly, or the bottom would become brown and give a bad
flavour to the sauce; ten minutes is quite sufficient to stew them.
No. 223. _Lark Pie._ Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with thin slices of
beef and fat bacon, over which lay ten or twelve larks, previously
rolled in flour, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of
pepper, one of chopped parsley, and one of chopped eschalot; lay a
bay-leaf over, add a gill of broth, and cover with three quarters of a
pound of half puff paste (p. 480); bake one hour in a moderate oven,
shake well to make the gravy in the pie form a kind of sauce, and serve
quite hot.
No. 224. _Jugged Hare._ Put nearly half a pound of butter into a
good-sized stewpan with ten ounces of flour, making rather a thinnish
roux by continually turning over a slow fire until becoming of a
yellowish tinge, then add a pound of good streaked bacon, previously cut
into good-sized square pieces; keep stirring a few minutes longer over
the fire; you have previously cut the hare into nice pieces, throw them
into the stewpan, and stir over the fire until becoming firm, when
moisten with four glasses of port wine, and sufficient water to cover
them; when beginning to boil, skim well, season in proportion to the
size of your hare, let simmer, add two bay-leaves, four cloves, and,
when about half done, forty button onions, or ten large ones, cut into
slices; let simmer until the whole is well done, the sauce requiring to
be rather thick; dress the pieces as high as possible upon your dish,
sauce over, and serve. The remains are excellent either cold or warmed
up again in the stewpan. If cheap and in season, a few small new
potatoes are excellent stewed with it.
No. 225. _Another and more simple Method._ Put a quarter of a pound of
butter with a pound of bacon, cut into dice, and the hare, cut into
pieces, in a stewpan set upon a moderate fire until the pieces of hare
are becoming firm, when add six ounces of flour, mix well and moisten
with sufficient water to cover it, add two glasses of any kind of wine
and one of vinegar, season as above, let simmer until tender, keeping
well skimmed: when done, and the sauce becoming quite thick, dress upon
your dish, and serve as before.
MEAT PIES AND PUDDINGS.
No. 226. _Rump Steak Pie._ Procure two pounds of rump-steak, which cut
into thinnish slices, season well with pepper and salt, dip each piece
into flour, and lay them in a small pie-dish, finishing the top in form
of a dome; add a wineglassful of water, and cover with three quarters of
a pound of half puff paste (page 480), egg over with a paste-brush, and
bake rather better than an hour in a moderate oven; serve either hot or
cold.
No. 227. _Mutton Pie._ Procure the chumps from three loins of mutton,
which cut into moderate slices, put a layer of them at the bottom of
your dish, season well with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and eschalot,
over which put a layer of thin slices of raw potatoes, then the meat,
and seasoning again, proceeding thus, finishing in a dome; add a
wineglassful of water, cover with paste, and bake as in the last.
No. 228. _Lamb Pie._ Cut a small loin of lamb into thin chops, which
lightly season, lay them in your dish with a few slices of new potatoes,
building them up in the form of a dome; moisten with water, cover with
paste, and bake as before.
The proper way to cover these pies is to wet the edge of the dish, round
which put a band of common paste, pressing it lightly on, wetting the
top, and joining the paste with which the pie is covered to it.
Pies, as I have previously observed, may also be made from the remains
of any joints, first hashing the meat from them, which cut into large
slices and well season; when quite cold, fill your pie-dish, building it
in a dome, two inches above the rim of your dish; place a bay-leaf over,
cover with paste, not, however, too thickly, and bake in a hot oven.
Any kind of meat, game, or poultry remaining may be hashed and converted
into a pie, as above, without much trouble, thus making a very excellent
dish to serve to table. Or the remains of any description of meats may
be thus dressed: lay a few slices of streaked uncooked bacon at the
bottom of a pie-dish, over which put layers of the meat, seasoning well
between, leaving a space between the meat and the dish all round, and
not building it above the edge of the dish; then have some potatoes
prepared as follows: put about a quarter of a pound of potatoes, well
mashed, into a basin, to which add three eggs, a spoonful of chopped
parsley, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and half a pint of milk;
mix well, strain through a colander, pour over the meat in the dish,
bake half an hour in a warm oven, and serve very hot.
No. 229. _Beef Steak Pudding._ At home I can frequently make a very
excellent dinner from a meat pudding, made as follows:
Put one pound of flour upon a pastry slab, in the centre of which form a
well, in which put half a pound of beef or mutton suet, whichever is
most convenient, add a teaspoonful of salt, and mix the whole, with
water, into a stiffish paste, adding more flour to detach the paste from
the slab, and make it dry to the touch; then slightly butter the
interior of a round-bottomed basin, of the size you may require, which
line with two thirds of the paste, rolled to the thickness of half an
inch; you have previously cut two pounds of rump-steak into slices, the
thickness of two five-shilling pieces, and an large as the palm of your
hand, with a certain quantity of fat attached, or if no fat, add a few
pieces separately, dip each piece in flour, and cover the bottom of your
basin, over which sprinkle some pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and
eschalots (which you have previously mixed upon a plate in the following
proportions: two teaspoonfuls of salt, half ditto of black pepper, two
of chopped parsley, and one or two of chopped onions or eschalots), then
more meat, and seasoning alternately until the pudding is filled, add a
wineglassful or two of water, lay a bay-leaf upon the top, wet the edges
of the paste, the remainder of which roll to the same thickness, with
which form a lid, closing it carefully at the edges; have ready boiling
in a stewpan upon the fire a gallon of water, in which stand your
pudding, having previously well wrapped it up in a cloth, and let boil
continually for three hours, now and then adding a little more water to
keep up the quantity; when done, untie the cloth, from which take the
basin, pass your knife carefully round between the pudding and the
basin, and turn over upon a dish, lifting the basin carefully, and you
will have an excellent pudding, not one drop of gravy escaping until you
have dug in your spoon, which will cause it to eat much more delicate
than by breaking the pudding on purpose to fill the dish with gravy when
going to table, particularly if soup and fish are served before, and the
pudding is kept half an hour waiting, the top pieces would then eat very
dry and indigestible, being deprived of their succulence. At home I
never carve such a pudding with a spoon, but lightly cut the crust with
a knife, cutting along the top instead of down, and laying a piece of
crust upon each plate, taking the meat and gravy from the centre with a
spoon, thus leaving the bottom until the last, which, if any remain, is
excellent cold.[27]
The above may also be either steamed or baked, in which case it will not
require to be tied in a cloth; to steam it, place a quart of water in a
middling-sized stewpan, and when boiling place in your pudding, cover
the stewpan down close, and draw it to the corner of the fire,
replenishing occasionally with more water; the pudding will require the
same time cooking, and is served as before.
If baked, the time required in cooking would of course greatly depend
upon the heat of your oven, but it would require about two hours baking
in a moderate oven, which is the best adapted. The pudding, when baked,
may be kept entirely to be eaten cold. Should the onion or bay-leaf be
objectionable to some, they may of course be omitted. Observe, that by
shaking the pudding gently, previous to turning it out upon your dish,
you will mix the gravy with the flour upon the meat, thus forming, when
the pudding is cut, a thinnish sauce, without having a greasy
appearance.
This very long and minute receipt will probably surprise many, but by
thus entering into it, I have given at least ten receipts in one, as I
make all other savoury puddings precisely the same; the following sorts
most frequently. I sometimes introduce one or two mutton kidneys in a
steak pudding, which, although a very old custom, is nevertheless a very
good one. Mutton pudding is also very excellent, especially if made from
the meat cut from the chumps of the loins, and made similar to the
beef-steak puddings, not, however, requiring quite so long a time to
boil. Short mutton cutlets, cut without showing the bones, with slices
of raw potatoes between, also make very excellent puddings, as also do
cutlets of lamb, but in either case requiring an hour less time to cook.
I have also frequently made very good puddings from veal, rabbits,
poultry, and game, all of which are very acceptable for a change.
Venison pudding is also very beautiful. I consider it a pity so few
people make any experiments in cookery, which, like other arts, is
almost inexhaustible. Some people who have partaken of some of these
puddings, previous to their being sent to table, have said they were
sure they would not be approved of; but to my great satisfaction they
have been totally deceived.
For the veal pudding I cut slices (from any part of the leg) about the
same size as the beef for steak puddings, and put them into a
sauté-pan, over the bottom of which I have rubbed an ounce of butter,
seasoning them with a little pepper and salt, adding a little thyme, and
a couple of bay-leaves; about half cook, and leave them in the pan until
quite cold, then dip each piece in flour, lay them in the basin with a
few slices of streaked bacon, finish the pudding, and boil it two hours.
For young rabbits and fowls I proceed the same, and cook the pudding the
same time; but to the last two I frequently add a spoonful of
currie-powder to make it palatable. For venison, I previously stew it
well, except I have left the remainder of a haunch, which I convert into
a hash, making the pudding of it when cold; this pudding will require
very little more than an hour boiling.
I frequently also make puddings of various kinds of fish, of which one
made from the fillets of mackerel is very excellent, the fillets cut
into good slices, rather highly seasoned, and laid lightly in the
pudding; it will require an hour and a half boiling, and must be eaten
very hot to be well appreciated. Eels also make a good pudding, by
cutting them into pieces an inch and a half in length slantwise, and
blanching them ten minutes in boiling water, to extract the oil,
previous to putting them in your pudding, before making which dip each
piece of eel in flour.
SECOND COURSE, KITCHEN AT HOME.
For the roasts, second course, in my Kitchen at Home, I must refer my
readers to that series in the other department of this work, as it is
impossible to explain them more simply; so also for the various methods
of dressing vegetables (there so fully explained), from the most
expensive to the most simple; and, to avoid repetition, pass over those
two series in the second course, and commence a short series of
simplified second-course dishes, with a few plain salads.
No. 230. _Salad of Cold Meat._ This salad in France is very much in
vogue, and very frequently made with the remains of meat from the
pot-au-feu, but any meat, either roasted, boiled, or stewed, may be
used.
Cut your meat in slices (with a little of the fat) about the size of
half-a-crown, place them upon a dish, with three eschalots chopped very
finely, a spoonful of chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and
chervil, and a little salt and pepper, pour six tablespoonfuls of
salad-oil and two of vinegar over, toss well together without breaking
the meat, and serve either in a salad-bowl or upon another dish; the
above proportion is for a pound of meat.
Another method is to have as many slices of cold potatoes as of meat,
cut the same size, and after well seasoning the whole, dress them
alternately round the dish, one resting upon the other; mix two
spoonfuls of oil with one of vinegar, which pour over and serve. Spring
onions, slices of beet-root, and radishes, may also be introduced. The
remains of poultry may also be dressed in a similar manner.
No. 231. _Lobster Salad._ Break up a lobster, obtaining as much of the
flesh as possible, which cut into slices, have likewise two hard-boiled
eggs also in slices, two anchovies filleted, and two cabbage lettuces,
or any other salad cut up small; mix the whole well together with a fork
in a basin, season with half a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of
chopped parsley, one of chopped tarragon and chervil, a little pepper
and salt, six spoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of vinegar; when well
mixed, turn the whole into a salad-bowl and serve. Crab may be dressed
precisely the same.
No. 232. _Fish Salads_ are also very good, and may be made with the
remains of John Doree, turbot, salmon, or brill; fillets of soles sauted
in butter, when cold, also make excellent salads.
Cut the fish into rather thin slices, have also two young cos lettuces,
which separate into leaves and cut lengthwise; add a few leaves of
tarragon, a little chervil, season with a little pepper and salt, six or
eight spoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of vinegar, or according to taste;
mix well together, turn into a salad-bowl and serve. The above salads
are excellent for dinner upon a hot summer’s day.
No. 233. _Potato Salad._ Peel and cut ten middling-sized cold potatoes
into slices, and put them into a salad-bowl, season with a little
pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, half ditto
of chopped eschalots, the same of chopped parsley, six spoonfuls of oil,
and two of vinegar; toss all well together without breaking the
potatoes, and serve. Cold haricot beans, French beans, and lentils are
also excellent dressed in the above method.
No. 234. _Plain Salad à la Française._ Throughout France, but in France
only, this simple style of dressing a salad is fully appreciated, the
sight of which refreshes the eyes and revives the appetite; I never
heard (in France) any one say, after a copious dinner, this is too much
and useless, but, on the contrary, every one reserves, if not an
appetite, at least the shade of one, for the approaching salad, the
simplicity of its seasoning and its trifling expense principally causing
it to be thus popular and so freely partaken of. I have never given a
small party at home, but my guests have been at all times anxious to
partake of my French salad, which I simply make as follows:
I procure a quantity of salad of any description the most in season (all
descriptions of salad being dressed in the same manner, one receipt will
do for the whole), but my favorite salad being endive, that is the one I
shall here describe.
Take four or five heads of very white endive, detach all the green
leaves, and wash each head well in a pail of cold water, but not leaving
them in the water, or they would eat quite bitter, which, for my own
part, I do not much object to, but many persons do; when clean, cut each
head in halves down the centre, cut off the roots, which throw away, lay
the endive in the centre of a clean cloth, which take by the four
corners and shake until the salad is perfectly dry; then put it into a
convenient-sized salad-bowl, season with three saltspoonfuls of salt,
two of white pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, six of salad-oil,
and one of tarragon and chervil chopped very fine, then stir up lightly
with a spoon and fork, and when well mixed let the guests help
themselves.
Another method of dressing an endive salad, which, in the opinion of the
generality of my guests, is the most preferable in point of flavour, is
to rub the salad-bowl with a piece of fresh peeled garlic, then lay in
the salad; have three or four pieces of crust of bread, about the size
of shillings, let each be well rubbed with the garlic, season and stir
well together as before.
Should any ladies, however, be going to partake of it, the bowl and
crusts must not be so much rubbed, as too strong a flavour might be
objectionable: this last receipt is only applicable to endive, every
other salad, such as cos or cabbage lettuce, is plainly dressed as in
the first receipt, adding more or less seasoning, or tarragon and
chervil; a dozen of green spring onions is also an improvement to a
salad.
To make a profitable family salad, a certain quantity of cold roast,
stewed, or boiled meat (which you might have remaining) or poultry might
be introduced in either of the above salads, having previously cut it
into slices; you may also introduce a couple of hard-boiled eggs, cut in
rings, with slices of beet-root, cucumbers, ripe tomatas, or even cold
potatoes, but then a little more vinegar must be added: from such a
salad a small family may in the summer months make an excellent meal.
No. 235. _Jelly of various kind of Fruits._ Having but little time to
make very bright jellies at home, I usually simply make them as directed
in the few following receipts--they are excellent and full of flavour:
when in a hurry, I generally use isinglass, but at other times boil
three calf’s feet, or two cow heels, in a gallon of water, and when well
done pass the liquor through a sieve into a basin, and clarify the next
day, by taking off every particle of fat, and putting it into a stewpan;
place upon the fire, and when boiling, add a pint of water, with which
you have whipped the whites of six eggs, mixing the juice of four lemons
and two ounces of lump sugar; keep whisking over the fire until upon the
point of boiling, when take from the fire, place the cover upon the
stewpan, with a little live charcoal, or a few live cinders upon the
top, let stand twenty minutes, when pour it through a jelly bag, pouring
that which first runs through in again, until running quite clear, when
all has passed through, pour it into a stewpan, and reduce it over a
sharp fire to about a quart, when put it by for use, instead of
isinglass, where indicated.
No. 236. _Orange Jelly._ The bountiful supply and cheapness of this
delicious fruit will enable almost any person to partake of this
excellent entremet.
Procure ten middling-sized oranges and two lemons, take the rind from
three of the oranges and one of the lemons, as thinly as possible, which
put into a basin, put a sieve over, through which squeeze the juice of
the oranges and lemons, then put half a pound of sugar in a stewpan over
the fire with a pint of water, and let boil until becoming a very thick
syrup, when take it off, and add the juice and rind of the fruits, cover
the stewpan for a few moments, when again place it over the fire; as
soon as boiling commences, skim well, and add two glasses of water by
degrees, which will assist its clarification, let boil another minute,
when add an ounce and a quarter of isinglass, dissolved as directed
(page 592), pass the whole through a jelly bag or fine cloth, and add a
few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint; when fill a
mould, which place in two or three pounds of ice until set quite firm
and ready to serve, when dip the mould in hot water to the rim, wipe the
exterior, turn over upon your dish, lifting the mould straight, but
gently off from the jelly.
As the sizes of the oranges very much fluctuate, and some produce more
juice than others, it would be better to try a little jelly in a spoon
upon ice, to ascertain if of the proper strength, before filling your
mould. If handy, the same quantity, or a little more, of reduced calf’s
foot jelly, as in the last, may be used instead of isinglass.
No. 237. _Whipped Orange Jelly._ This makes a very pleasing variation,
without incurring any additional expense, being merely when the jelly is
passed to put it in a bowl, which place upon ice, and commence whipping
the jelly until upon the point of setting, when pour it quickly into
your mould, which place upon ice until ready to serve, when dip the
mould into warm water and turn the jelly out. Orange jelly, as directed
in either of the last two, may also be served in the skins of the
oranges by proceeding as directed (page 522), and serving them upon a
napkin with laurel-leaves between, in the same manner as oranges for a
dessert. The remainder of an orange jelly may be melted again, poured
into glass custard cups, set upon ice, and served upon another occasion,
if sufficient; the remains of a clear one might be whipped and poured
again into the mould.
No. 238. _Lemon Jelly._ Proceed precisely the same as directed for
orange, but omitting the oranges, and using the juice of eight and the
rind of two lemons; this jelly requires to be kept quite white, and may
be served either turned out of a mould, or in glasses, but not in the
skin of the fruit, it being too bitter; half a pint of bucellas wine may
be added to the above.
No. 239. _Currant and Raspberry Jelly._ Procure two pounds of fresh
currants and a good handful of raspberries, which place in a clean cloth
over a basin, fold the cloth up, and press the juice through it with
your hands, then add two or three wineglassfuls of cold water, and pass
the whole through a jelly bag, make a thick syrup from three quarters of
a pound of sugar, to which add two ounces of dissolved isinglass (or
sufficient calf’s foot jelly), mix the whole well together; when the
syrup is a little cool, taste if palatable, place a little upon some
ice, and if strong enough, fill your mould, which place in ice until
quite set and ready to serve, when turn it out as before directed.
No. 240. _Strawberry Jelly._ Put a pint of water in a stewpan to boil,
have ready picked a basket of fresh strawberries, and when the water is
boiling throw them in, let simmer a minute, add the juice of a lemon,
place the lid upon the stewpan, and stand by until half cold, when run
the jelly through a napkin or jelly bag, make a syrup, and add the
isinglass as above, but using less sugar, finish precisely as in the
last.
Either of the last two jellies are, for a change, also very excellent
whipped as directed for the orange jelly. It is almost needless to
mention that when calf’s foot jelly is used, not quite so much sugar
will be required as if only the isinglass.
JELLIES OF LIQUEURS AND SPIRITS.
No. 241. _Maresquino Jelly._ Have, if any, a quart of rather firm calf’s
foot jelly, to which add, when melted, six liqueur-glassfuls of
maresquino, and two of brandy, pour in your mould, which set upon ice
until firm and ready for use, when turn out of your mould, as before,
and serve. If no calf’s foot jelly, isinglass must be used instead, by
dissolving an ounce and a half of isinglass, and adding it to a syrup
made with the juice of two lemons, half a pound of sugar, and a pint or
water, pass through a napkin or jelly bag, add two wineglassfuls more
water, with the maresquino and brandy, when partly cold place in your
mould, and serve as before.
Jelly made in either of the above methods may be flavoured with any
other liqueurs (the quantity used depending principally upon taste), as
also with rum, brandy, or whiskey, which last are more fit for a party
of gentlemen.
No. 242. _Syrup of Almond, Iced à la Varsovienne, a substitute for
Blancmange._ Almost every ordinary cook is acquainted with the old
method of making a blancmange, and the tediousness of its fabrication;
so at home I make the following substitute: blanch and pound in a mortar
four ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, boil three
quarters of a pound of sugar to a thickish syrup, put in the almonds,
let infuse twenty minutes, then pass it through a tammie, add sufficient
dissolved isinglass or calf’s foot jelly to set it, with a glass of
brandy or rum, place the above preparation in a bowl upon some ice,
keeping it stirred until upon the point of setting, when stir in a pint
of cream, previously well whipped, and pour it into a mould, let remain
upon ice until ready to serve, when dip into lukewarm water and turn out
upon your dish. The flavour of any kind of fruit may be used instead.
No. 243. _Pineapple Cream_ is what I now frequently make in the summer
months, using the West Indian pineapples, which may be procured
remarkably cheap. Peel a small one, and put the rind into a stewpan,
with six ounces of sugar, and two wineglassfuls of water; let boil until
reduced to a very thick syrup, when pass it through a sieve into a
basin, cut the remainder of the pine into very small strips, which put
into the basin with the syrup, have ready boiling half a pint of milk,
in which you have dissolved rather more than an ounce of isinglass, in
another stewpan have the yolks of five eggs, over which pour the milk,
mix well, and stir over the fire until it becomes a little thickish, but
not boiling, when pass it through a sieve over the syrup, mix well
together, place in a bowl upon some ice, keep stirring until upon the
point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of cream, previously
whipped, stir well in, fill your mould, which leave upon the ice until
ready to serve, when turn it out as in the last.
No. 244. _Prussian Cream._ Put an ounce and a half of isinglass,
previously dissolved, into a bowl, melt it, and add six glasses of any
liqueur, and two of brandy, with six ounces of powdered sugar, let well
dissolve, place the bowl upon some ice, keeping its contents stirred
until upon the point of setting, when add three parts of a pint of
whipped cream; fill your mould, and proceed as before.
BOHEMIAN JELLY CREAMS.
No. 245. _Strawberry._ Pick and pass through a fine sieve a pottle of
very fresh strawberries, to which add the juice of a lemon, six ounces
of powdered sugar, and an ounce and a half of dissolved isinglass (or
sufficient calf’s foot jelly to set it), put the above ingredients into
a bowl, which set upon ice, keeping its contents stirred until upon the
point of setting, when stir in three parts of a pint of cream,
previously whipped; fill your mould, and proceed as before.
For cherries, raspberries, and currants, proceed as for strawberries,
but for apricots, peaches, apples, pears, quinces, &c., proceed as
follows:
No. 246. _Apricot Bohemian Cream._ Stone and cut into slices ten or
twelve rather small apricots, quite ripe, and throw them into a stewpan
containing half a pint of boiling water, and let boil until forming a
purée when pass them through a hair sieve, add six ounces of powdered
sugar, with the juice of two lemons, and an ounce and a half of
isinglass, previously dissolved; place the whole in a bowl, which set
upon ice, keep stirring until upon the point of setting, when add three
parts of a pint of whipped cream, pour into your mould, which place upon
ice, and turn out when ready to serve, as before.
Should your apricots be very ripe there would be no necessity to boil
them, but merely rub them through a sieve, mix the lemon-juice, sugar,
and isinglass, and finish as above.
Creams of peaches or of any of the before-mentioned fruits are made in
the same manner: but until you have confidence in yourself, it would be
better to taste for the sweetness, and try the stiffness by placing a
little upon ice, previously to finishing it.
No. 247. _French Custard Cream._ Have ready ten custard glasses, or
small coffee cups, measure one of them ten times full of milk, which
place in a stewpan, and set upon the fire until boiling, when add a
quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and the rind of two lemons, free
from pith, place the lid upon the stewpan, take from the fire and let
infuse ten minutes, then in a basin have ready the yolks of eight eggs,
with which stir in the milk by degrees, pass through a tammie and fill
the cups; have ready upon the fire a large flat stewpan, containing
water sufficient to cover the bottom two inches in depth, and just
simmering, stand in the cups, and let remain still simmering until the
custards are quite firm, when take them out, let remain until cold, when
wash the cups outside, dress them upon a napkin and serve; any kind of
flavour may be introduced into the above; but for
No. 248, _Coffee Custard Cream_, proceed as follows: make half a pint of
strong coffee according to the usual method, add half a pint of thin
cream or milk previously boiled, sweeten to palate, mix with the yolks
of eggs, pass through a tammie, and proceed precisely as directed in the
last.
No. 249. _Coffee Custard Cream, White._ Put a quarter of a pound of
green Mocha coffee into a small stewpan, which place over a slow fire,
tossing the coffee over frequently until becoming lightly browned, but
not black, in another stewpan have boiling a pint of milk, take from the
fire, let infuse ten minutes, placing the lid upon the stewpan, then mix
with eight yolks of eggs, pass through a tammie, and finish as before.
No. 250. _Chocolate Custard Cream._ Scrape half a cake of good
chocolate, which put into a stewpan, and moisten by degrees with a pint
of warm milk and cream, when well dissolved mix with the yolks of eggs,
and finish as before.
Any of the above custards may be put into common tart dishes, and set in
a potato steamer, or slowly baked in the oven, should the above process
be too tedious or inconvenient.
Any description of English boiled custard may be made in the same
manner, but instead of pouring it first into the cups, when the infusion
is made, mix it with the yolks of eggs, and stir over the fire until
thickening (but must not boil, or it would curdle), pass through a
tammie, fill your cups or glasses, grate a little nutmeg over each, and
serve when quite cold.
No. 251. _Almond Custard Cream._ The flavour of almonds, which appears
to be so generally liked in England, and which were I to omit in custard
I should consider it to be a piece of neglect, is generally obtained by
the use of an essence which I cannot at all approve of, but consider the
following method to obtain that delicious flavour to be much more
commendable: blanch and skin two ounces of sweet with a few bitter
almonds, pound them well, with sufficient sugar to sweeten a pint of
milk, which you have in a stewpan, when boiling throw in the almonds and
sugar, cover the stewpan, let infuse ten minutes in another stewpan,
have the yolks of eight eggs, upon which pour the infusion, stirring it
well and mixing by degrees, stir over the fire until thickening, when
pass it through a tammie into a bowl, which place upon ice, or in cold
water, keeping it stirred until quite cold, when mix a gill of cream
whipped very stiff, fill your cups, sprinkle crushed ratafias over, and
they are ready to serve.
By adding a little dissolved isinglass to the above when cooling, any
description of spirits or liqueurs may be introduced.
The cream may be omitted, it will then make a good plain custard.
No. 252. _Cabinet Pudding._ Well butter a plain round mould or basin,
round the interior of which stick a quantity of dried cherries, or
Smyrna raisins, then about three parts fill the mould with sponge cake,
interspersing two ounces of ratafias, over which sprinkle a good glass
of brandy, then have ready the following custard: boil a pint of milk,
in which infuse the rind of two lemons, free from pith, in a basin, have
six whole eggs, which well whisk, with a quarter of a pound of powdered
sugar, and add the milk by degrees, pass through a tammie and fill up
the mould, round the edge of which place a band of buttered paper, have
a convenient-sized stewpan, with about two inches in depth of boiling
water, place in your pudding, cover a sheet of paper over, and let
simmer gently over the fire, keeping the stewpan covered down close
until the pudding becomes quite firm, by which time you should be ready
to serve it, take out, detach the paper, and turn from the mould over
upon a dish; have ready the following sauce: put half a pint of melted
butter into a stewpan, into which stir the yolks of two eggs, and add a
glassful of brandy, with the juice of a lemon, and sufficient sugar to
sweeten it, stir over the fire until becoming a little thick, when pass
it through a tammie, sauce over the pudding and serve.
No. 253. _Bread Pudding._ Procure four French rolls, the crumb of which
put into a basin, with a pint of boiling milk, let remain until half
cold, when add six whole eggs, with a quarter of a pound of currants,
and one ounce of candied citron, cut into very small dice, mix the whole
well together; have ready prepared as in the last a plain round mould,
in which pour the above mixture, steam it as in the last; when done and
ready to serve, turn from the mould, and serve with the same sauce
poured over as before directed.
No. 254. _Ground Rice Pudding._ Place a pint of milk in a stewpan over
the fire, and when boiling throw in the rind of a lemon, cut as thinly
as possible, and quite free from pith; take from the fire, cover the
stewpan, and leave ten minutes to infuse; then in a basin have six
ounces of ground rice, which mix smoothly with half a pint of cold milk,
take out the lemon-peel from the milk in the stewpan, pour in the
mixture, and stir the whole over the fire until thickening, when take
from the fire; add six whole eggs, six ounces of powdered sugar and a
little grated nutmeg, mix the whole well together, have ready, well
buttered, a pudding-dish, into which pour the mixture, and bake in a
moderate oven until set; serve hot.
No. 255. _Rice Pudding._ Well wash six ounces of Carolina rice in one or
two waters, drain and dry it upon a cloth, and put it into a stewpan
with a pint and a half of cold milk and a quarter of a pound of butter,
place the stewpan over a moderate fire, allowing its contents to simmer
very gently until the rice becomes quite tender, when add six whole eggs
well whipped, six ounces of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg; pour into
a buttered pudding-dish, and bake in a moderate oven until set and
nicely coloured; serve hot as before.
Sago, tapioca, semoulina, and vermicelli puddings are made very similar
to the last, and served the same; they may of course be flavoured with
lemon, any description of spice approved of, or a couple of glasses of
brandy, rum, noyeau, maresquino, or almost any description of wine,
spirits, or liqueurs.
No. 256. _Macaroni Pudding._ Have half a pound of macaroni, which boil
in half a gallon of water until becoming tender, when drain it upon a
sieve; have ready boiling in a stewpan half a pint of milk, in which put
the macaroni (having previously cut it into pieces an inch in length),
with a quarter of a pound of butter and the rind of a lemon, free from
pith, tied in a bunch; let simmer gently about twenty minutes, when take
out the lemon-peel and add six whole eggs, well whisked, with six ounces
of sugar; have ready a pudding-dish well buttered, into which pour the
above preparation; bake and serve as before.
No. 257. _Gateau of Rice._ Well wash half a pound of Carolina rice,
which well drain and put into a stewpan with a quart of milk, a quarter
of a pound of butter, and a few sticks of cinnamon; let simmer over a
slow fire until the rice is very tender, and the whole becoming
thickish, when take out the pieces of cinnamon; add six ounces of
powdered sugar and eight whole eggs, stir in quickly over the fire until
becoming again thickish, when have ready a plain oval mould, well butter
the interior, lay a sheet of buttered paper at the bottom, pour in the
above, filling the mould to within three quarters of an inch from the
rim, and place in a moderate oven, where let remain until set quite
firm, when take from the oven, turn out of your mould upon a dish, and
serve quite hot, with a sauce over, as directed for cabinet pudding.
Gateaux of macaroni, vermicelli, &c., may also be made by the above
directions, preparing them as for pudding, but making the mixture as
directed for the rice.
No. 258. _Fruit Puddings._ As almost every description of fruit pudding
is made in the same manner, I consider it would be entirely useless to
enter into their details, so shall here content myself with merely
giving a description of the apple pudding, which, although one of the
most common, is in my opinion one of the best.
Put a pound of flour upon your pastry slab, with which mix half a pound
of beef suet, well shred and finely chopped, make a hole in the centre,
in which pour nearly half a pint of water, mixing the flour and suet in
by degrees, and shaking the whole lightly together, then take two
thirds, which roll up into a ball, and with the rolling-pin form it
into a round sheet, nearly half an inch in thickness; have ready a
round-bottomed basin, well buttered and floured, which line with the
sheet of paste, keeping it about an inch above the rim of the basin;
have also ready sufficient apples peeled and cut in slices, with which
fill the interior, adding a piece of butter the size of a walnut, six
ounces of powdered or brown sugar, six or eight cloves, and a little
grated nutmeg; wet round the edge of the paste above the basin, roll out
the remainder to form a lid of about the same thickness, lay it over the
top, joining them well together, then tie the pudding with the basin in
a cloth; have ready a good-sized stewpan over the fire, three parts full
of boiling water, into which put the pudding, boiling it about an hour
and a half: when done and ready to serve take it from the cloth, pass
your knife carefully round the sides between the pudding and the basin,
turn over upon a dish, lift the basin from it gently, and serve as soon
as possible.
Some people prefer the paste for fruit puddings made of butter, which is
also very good; but in my opinion the suet paste is much lighter; the
trimmings of puff-paste, if any, would also make an excellent crust for
a fruit.
Puddings of gooseberries, cherries, currants, raspberries, plums,
damsons, &c., are made precisely the same, but omitting the cloves,
nutmeg, and piece of butter, and less boiling.
No. 259. _Pastry._ For the making of good puff-paste I could not give a
more simple receipt than that (page 479) in the other department, to
which I must refer my readers, as also for half-puff-paste (page 480),
which will be found very serviceable in the making of pies or fruit
tarts, the method of making which it is here my intention to describe,
but for all other dishes of small fancy pastry, a great variety will be
found in the Kitchen of the Wealthy, very simply explained, and
requiring no greater convenience to make than what my Kitchen at Home
will afford.
No. 260. _Short Paste for Fruit Tarts._ Although I have above stated
that the half-puff-paste is very excellent for the covering of fruit
tarts, I am also aware that very many persons prefer a short sweet
paste, as such I have given the following receipt, leaving my readers to
choose between the two, the process being the same for either.
Put a pound of flour upon your pastry slab, with six ounces of butter,
and rub them well together with your hands, then make a hole in the
centre, in which put two ounces of powdered sugar, two whole eggs, and
rather more than a wineglassful of water; mix the eggs, sugar, and water
well together, then draw in the flour and butter, shaking the whole
well, and when dry work it together lightly with the hands.
No. 261. _Apricot Tarts._ For tarts the apricots do not require to be
too ripe. Procure about two dozen, or according to the size of your
dish, split each one in halves, break their stones, and take out their
kernels, which blanch and skin, lay the apricots in your dish, building
them in the form of a dome above the level of your dish, and
interspersing the kernels here and there, cover them over with half a
pound of lump sugar broken very small; have ready sufficient
half-puff-paste (page 480), or the tart-paste just described, a band of
which, the eighth of an inch in thickness, lay round the rim of your
dish, previously wetting it, then roll out a sheet of the paste large
enough to cover the fruit, and a quarter of an inch in thickness, wet
the band of paste upon your dish, and lay the cover over, in which prick
a hole in each side between the fruit and the edge of the dish, forming
a well all round, and closing the paste well at the edges, trim round
with a knife, with which also decorate the edges, wet the top well with
white of egg beat to a light froth, over which sprinkle two ounces of
finely-powdered sugar, sprinkle with water until the sugar is well
dissolved (but not to run off), place in a moderate oven, and bake about
an hour, keeping it a very light brown colour, serve when cold.
No. 262. _Greengage Tart._ Procure a sufficient number of ripe
greengages, which put into your dish whole, giving them the form of a
dome at the top, and if about two dozen covering them with six ounces of
powdered sugar; cover with paste, and proceed exactly as described in
the last.
Any description of plum tart is made precisely in the same manner, as
also are gooseberry, cherry, currant and raspberry, cranberry, &c. and
all requiring about the same time and same description of oven.
No. 263. _Apple Tart._ Peel and cut about two dozen russet apples in
slices, which put into your dish, interspersing them with some lemon
peel, free from pith, cut into strips, about six cloves, and a little
grated nutmeg; build the apples up in a dome to the centre of your dish,
and cover over with half a pound of powdered sugar, then have ready half
a pound of puff-paste made as directed (page 479), with which make a
band a quarter of an inch in thickness, laying it round the rim of the
dish, roll out the remainder of the paste to the thickness of a quarter
of an inch, and large enough to cover the fruit, wet the band of paste
upon the dish with a little water, lay the cover gently over, pricking a
hole with your knife at the top to let out the air, closing it gently at
the edges, which trim neatly with a knife; egg the top over with a
paste-brush, and place in a moderate oven to bake, which will take about
an hour; just before taking from the oven sift a little sugar over, and
let remain until melted, forming a nice glaze over the tart, which may
be served either hot or cold. Brown sugar may be used for any of the
above tarts if approved of, but I have given directions for the white,
considering that the brown, although commonly used, frequently destroys
the delicious flavour of some descriptions of fruit. The salamander may
be used to brown it.
No. 264. _French Fruit Tart._ Make half a pound of paste as directed
(No. 1136, page 481), mould it into a round ball upon your marble slab,
and roll to a round sheet a quarter of an inch in thickness, wet round
the rims, turning the edge over to form a border half an inch in depth,
which press upon with your finger and thumb to about an inch in height,
have ready about twenty greengages, or any other description of plums,
split each into two, and place them in the interior of your tart, shake
some sugar over, and bake about half an hour in a hot oven; serve cold,
shaking more sugar over at the time of serving. They may also be made
with apricots, peaches, cherries, currants, raspberries, cranberries, or
gooseberries, in the same manner; but if made of apples, the fruit must
be previously boiled to a marmalade, or stewed in a stewpan, with sugar
and a small piece of butter, until tender, previous to putting them in
the crust; fruit baked in these tarts is also very excellent meringued
as directed (No. 267); plain whipped cream with a little sugar is very
good for a change.
No. 265. _Plain Souffle Puddings._ Put two ounces of butter in a
stewpan, with two spoonfuls of flour, mix well together, then add half a
pint of milk, with a little salt, and two ounces of sugar, upon which
you have rubbed the rind of a fresh lemon or orange, keep stirring over
the fire until it thickens, but if becoming too thick, which will depend
upon the flour, add more milk, but if the contrary, let reduce until
forming a fine softish paste; when stir in quickly the yolks of four
eggs, when well mixed set by until cold; you have reserved the whites of
the eggs, which, half an hour before serving, whip to a stiffish froth,
and mix well but lightly with the other part of the preparation, pour
the whole into a deep pie-dish, previously well buttered, and set it in
a warm oven, when about half done cut an incision in the top, and put
again in the oven, when done shake powdered sugar over the top, glaze
lightly with the salamander, if any, and serve immediately. Better the
guests wait a few minutes for the souffle than the souffle for the
guests.
No. 266. _Souffle Rice Pudding._ Well wash two ounces of Carolina rice,
which when dry put into a stewpan with nearly a pint of milk, an ounce
of butter, half the rind of a lemon, free from pith, a little salt, and
a spoonful of powdered sugar; set upon the fire until boiling, when draw
it to the corner, where let simmer very gently (or place the stewpan
upon a trivet at a good height from the fire) until the rice is very
tender, when take it from the fire, and beat well with a wooden spoon
until forming a smoothish paste, when add the yolks of four or five
eggs, mixing them well, pour the whites of the eggs into a bowl, whisk
them until very stiff, and mix lightly with the preparation; have ready,
buttered lightly, a deep pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and about a
quarter of an hour before ready to serve place it in a moderate oven,
serving when done, and the moment you take it from the oven. Half the
above quantity may of course be made.
Souffle of ground rice is made the same as the above, the rice, however,
not requiring so long to simmer as when whole. As also are souffles of
tapioca, semoulina, vermicelli, &c., changing their flavours according
to taste, using vanilla, lemon, orange, orange-flower-water, or a small
quantity of any description of liqueur. A few currants may also be mixed
with any of the preparations, or laid at the bottom of the dish, as also
may any description of light preserves.
No. 267. _Fruits Meringued._ Any description of fruits may be served to
table meringued, by following the above directions. For apples, peel and
cut six into slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter,
half the rind of a lemon, free from pith, cut into thin strips, with the
juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, or if
the apples are perfectly ripe not quite so much, place the stewpan over
a moderate fire, tossing the apple over occasionally until quite done,
half fill a pie-dish with them, then whip the whites of four eggs to a
very stiff froth, with, which mix very lightly a quarter of a pound of
powdered sugar, and lay over the apples in the dish, shake a little
sugar over, and set in a slow oven until forming quite a dry crust; it
had better remain in the oven a little too long than not long enough,
but be sure that the oven is not too hot when you put it in, or it would
catch and become quite black, instead of being what it should be, a very
light brown, or gold colour.
Apricots, pears, &c., may be done the same, but omitting the butter; for
either, cover whilst still warm.
The above fruits also thus prepared may be covered with a souffle of
rice, or ground-rice pudding, and baked; they may be then served either
hot or cold.
No. 268. _Snow Eggs_ are made with the whites of eggs, thus: whip the
whites of five eggs very stiff, to which add (mixing lightly) five
ounces of sugar; have boiling in a flat stewpan upon the fire a pint of
milk, form pieces of the mixture with a tablespoon in the shape of eggs,
and drop them into the boiling milk to poach; when set rather firm take
them out with a colander-spoon, and lay them upon a sieve with a plate
under to drain; when all are poached your milk will be reduced to about
half; then in another stewpan put the yolks of three eggs, with a little
sugar, and a few drops of orange-flower-water, beat well together, then
add the milk, and keep stirring over the fire until forming a thickish
custard (but not allowing it to boil), when pass it through a tammie,
dress the eggs tastefully in crown upon your dish, pour the custard over
and serve. You may also poach six or eight very fresh eggs in water,
with which you have added a little vinegar; when well set take out with
a colander-spoon, drain them upon a cloth until cold, dress them upon a
dish, or in a flat glass dish, pour a custard over, prepared as above,
but with which, if handy, you have mixed a little whipped cream.
For every description of omelettes I must refer my readers to the series
of omelettes in the other department of this work.
No. 269. _Plum Pudding._ Pick and stone one pound of the best Malaga
raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of currants (well washed,
dried, and picked), a pound and a half of good beef suet (chopped, but
not too fine), three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar, two
ounces of candied lemon and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron,
six ounces of flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a
little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole eggs
and a little milk; have ready a plain or ornamented pudding-mould, well
butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, cover a sheet of
paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the pudding into a large
stewpan containing boiling water, and let boil quite fast for four hours
and a half (or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding cloth
previously well floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a
round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no
difference in the time required for boiling); when done take out of the
cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle a little powdered
sugar over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat: put the yolks
of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of powdered sugar, and a
gill of milk, mix well together, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over
the fire until becoming thickish (but do not let it boil), when add two
glasses of brandy, and serve.
The above sauce may be served poured over the pudding if approved of.
An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of
beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same quantity of suet.
No. 270. _Currant Pudding._ Put a pound and a half of flour into a
basin, with a pound of beef suet, shred and chopped very fine, and a
pound of currants, well washed, picked, and dried, add a little powdered
cinnamon, or grated nutmeg, and mix well together, with four whole eggs,
a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, and half a pint of milk, boil it
as directed for plum pudding, either in a mould or tied in a cloth, but
two hours would be sufficient; when done turn out upon a dish and serve
quite plain, or with sauce as above.
The above mixture divided in small puddings or dumplings about the size
of apples, boiled about half an hour, and served hot to table with a
little powdered sugar over, are also excellent.
No. 271. _Sweet Maccaroons._ Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet
almonds, dry them well in your screen, then put them into a mortar, with
a pound and a half of lump sugar, pound well together, and pass the
whole through a wire sieve, put it again into the mortar, with the
whites of two eggs, mix well together with the pestle, then add the
white of another egg, proceeding thus until you have used the whites of
about eight eggs, and made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal
distances apart upon wafer paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts,
place some strips of almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in
a slow oven of a yellowish-brown colour; they are done when set quite
firm through.
No. 272. _Bitter Maccaroons_, or _Ratafias_, are made similar to the
above, but deducting two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of
bitter almonds; they are laid out in much smaller cakes upon common
paper, and baked in a much warmer oven; when cold they may be taken off
the paper with the greatest ease. These cakes are very serviceable in
making a great many second-course dishes.
No. 273. _Mince Meat._ Procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef
suet, which skin and chop very finely, have also three pounds of candied
lemon and orange peel, a quarter of a pound of citron, a pound and a
half of lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the
whole separately chopped very fine, and put into a large pan with four
pounds and a half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of
mixed spice, and two pounds of sugar; mix the whole well together with
the juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and
tie down until ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well
stoned and chopped, may likewise be added to the above.
No. 274. _Mince Pies._ Have a piece of puff-paste made as directed (page
479), which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece, have also a
dozen tartelette-pans, which lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with
a round cutter from the paste, each the size of your tartelette-pans,
lay them upon the slab; roll the trimming of the paste again to the
former thickness, cut twelve other pieces, with which line the
tartelette-pans, put a piece of mince-meat in each, wet them round,
place on the lids, pricking a hole with a pin in the centre, and close
them well at the edges; egg over lightly, and bake about twenty minutes
in a moderate oven.
END OF RECEIPTS FOR KITCHEN AT HOME.
TO MAKE COFFEE IN AN ECONOMICAL MANNER.
BY MY MENAGERE.
After constant supplications to my ménagère, I have obtained at last a
valuable receipt of the method of making my coffee at home, which I must
say she may well be proud of, having been continually complimented by my
guests on account of its excellence. It was only by touching her vanity,
and assuring her that it was not to oblige me but the public at large,
that she permitted me to give it publicity, on the condition, however,
that her name be appended.
“Buy your coffee not over-burnt; grind it at home if possible. Have a
middle-sized filter like ours, which holds a little more than a quart,
and came from Jakes’ or Benham’s, I forget which (but that is of little
consequence, as you merely want the receipt), pour about a pint of
boiling water into the filter to heat it through, then empty it, and put
a quarter of a pound of ground coffee on the filter; then put on the
presser, and lastly the grating; then pour about half a pint of quite
boiling water over it, put the cover on, and let it drain through.
“After three or four minutes pour by degrees a pint and a half more
boiling water, and when well passed through pour it from the filter into
a very clean stewpan; set it on the corner of the fire, and when a
little white scum rises to the surface (not letting it boil) pour it a
second time over the filter, and when passed through pour either into
the silver cafetière or the cups. Serve boiling milk or cream in two
small jugs, and white or brown, or sometimes candied sugar.”
After promising her a fine gown for her kindness, I gave her a pen to
sign her name.
* * * * *
“But stop,” says she, “I forgot that for your breakfast the next day I
used a system of economy which I think will please: as soon as I have
poured the coffee from the coffee-pot, I put another quart of boiling
water over it. This I find saves me an ounce of coffee by boiling it
instead of water, and pouring it over as before.”
(Signed)
“IRMA DE L’OMBRE.”
THE FOLLOWING IS A CORRECT COPY OF A MONSTER BILL OF FARE FROM A PAPER
FOUND IN THE TOWER OF LONDON.
George Nevil, brother to the great Earl of Warwick, at his instalment
into the Archbishopric of York, in the year 1470, made a feast for the
Nobility, Gentry, and Clergy, wherein he spent
300 Quarters of Wheat.
300 Tuns of Ale.
104 Tuns of Wine.
One pipe of spiced Wine.
10 fat Oxen.
6 wild Bulls.
300 Pigs.
1004 Wethers.
300 Hogs.
3000 Calves.
3000 Geese.
300 Capons.
100 Peacocks.
200 Cranes.
200 Kids.
2000 Chickens.
4000 Pigeons.
4000 Rabbits.
4000 Ducks.
204 Bitterns.
400 Hernsies.
200 Pheasants.
500 Partridges.
5000 Woodcocks.
400 Plovers.
100 Curlews.
100 Quails.
1000 Eggets.
200 Rees.
4000 Bucks, Does, and Roebucks.
155 Hot Venison Pasties.
4000 Cold Venison Pasties.
1000 Dishes of Jellies.
2000 Hot Custards.
4000 Cold Custards.
400 Tarts.
300 Pikes, 300 Breams.
8 Seals, and 4 Porpoises.
At the feast the Earl of Warwick was Steward, the Earl of Bedford
Treasurer, the Lord Hastings Comptroller, with many noble offers:
Servitors 1000, Cooks 62, Kitcheners and Scullions 515.
For description of the above, read the introduction of French
Pot-au-feu, page 649.
NEW PAGODATIQUE ENTRÉE DISH.
A LA SOYER.[28]
The union which has been forced between the “Children of the Son” and
those of proud Albion has thrown some beneficial rays upon our European
domains and costumes, and if they have not improved our manners and
habits, they have at all events changed them.
It is true that we had, previously to this, reaped marvellous things
from the “Celestial Empire;” but the English nation, always eager for
novelty, could not be contented with their (_Ombres Chinoises_) Chinese
shadows, but must possess them in reality. Since this astonishing
conquest you have _Chinese_ quadrilles, _Chinese_ fashions, exhibitions
furiously _Chinese_, and, for certain, several millions of dollars,
which are every bit as _Chinese_ as the illustrious descendant of more
than forty centuries, whom you are still expecting as a most
extraordinary ambassador. I already perceive that your shoes, “_jolies
Anglaises_,” change and diminish with great rapidity. Even now you
appear to walk with difficulty; really, if you continue this practice,
you will, like the Mandarins’ ladies, have very pretty feet for sitting,
but very bad ones for walking. The intellectual part, which is covered
with your splendid “_blonde chevelure_,” will suffer as much as your
little feet; and it will be a contest between your astonishing and
gracious Amazons, who shall have their hair turned up first, in hopes to
resemble your celestial sister and nuptial companion of the expected
plenipotentiary. Your beautiful eyes, I hope, will remain in their
primitive purity; also that clear and rich tone of colour, which brings
to mind those extraordinary fine visages _clair de lune de l’antiquité_.
The island of Great Britain adds to and preserves this superb and almost
ephemeric colour, unknown to the soil of the Continent.
You may, nymphs of the ocean, let your nails grow in the fantastic
manner of that captured country; that is, near an inch longer than our
insignificant custom in Europe, which is, they say, “a part of the world
far from being civilized.” I would also advise you to use with
moderation the beaume Cremeux Houbigant, which will preserve them that
beautiful vermeil, so greatly admired.
But reflect for a moment, in giving full scope to your fashionable
taste, you sacrifice a thousand chefs-d’œuvre, and entirely forsake
our illustrious favorites, Mozart, Rossini, Meyerbeer, Auber, Handel,
and many others; because you recollect that the harp, guitar, piano,
&c., were not invented for the Mandarins: but setting aside all these
little tribulations, while walking about with pain, you will have the
gratification of hearing, “There goes a lady of the newest fashion.”
While discoursing upon these trifling subjects, I did not perceive an
enormous Epicurean, not very particular in fashions, and still less
partial to politics (which proves the difficulty of finding several
great accomplishments centred in one person), was waiting with intense
anxiety, to hear the result of the notice on the title-page; immediately
addressing me, he exclaimed, as our satiric Boileau might have said,
“_Tout ce que vous venez de débiter est certainement bien plat_,”--“but
where the deuce is your new plat d’entrée, or entrée dish?”
I begged a thousand pardons of my antagonist, and perceived, to my great
surprise, that I had involuntarily left my culinary laboratory to
undertake an ephemeric voyage to China. After an apology on each side,
the following dialogue took place between us:
“There is the model of the dish; what do you think of it, sir?”
[Illustration]
“I perceive with pleasure,” he very politely replied, “that I have not
lost anything by waiting; it displays great taste and originality, and
possesses the seal of innovation.
“Allow me to take off the cover.”
[Illustration:]
“Ah! what is the use of those divisions, or compartments?”[29]
“The Chinese, as I have been informed by several celebrated travellers,
amongst which your great diplomatist, Sir Henry Pottinger (to whom I had
lately the honour of being introduced, upon the occasion of his visit to
the Club), in viewing the dish, certified what I had previously heard
from several illustrious men---- By the by, he has honoured me by
subscribing for a set of them--here is my album, and see, there is his
autograph:
[Illustration]
--for four pagodatique _entrée_ dishes; this completes the service for
the present, but in a short time a complete service for first and second
course can be easily manufactured at a reasonable price. But to return
to the subject. I was telling you that those gentlemen had informed me
that the Chinese have, upon their tables at their banquets, a profusion
of fowls, and birds of all kinds, served with sauce or gravy, a plate
being placed before each guest, similar to the European fashion,
surrounded by three or four small saucers, each containing different
ingredients, spices, and pickles, suited to the dish they partake of;
each person takes a wing or fillet, that being the only part they
consider eatable. They then cut it in small pieces, on their plates, and
dip them into the different sauces, until they produce a favorite
seasoning to their taste. It might not be to either yours or mine, but
for all that, I do not blame them.”
“‘Pon my word, it is very curious and clever; by this mode your plate is
free from incumbrance, a fault with which I always reproach our nation.”
“I have frequently heard of a ‘Potage aux nids d’oiseaux,’ we call it in
English, birds’-nest soup; it is said to be of the most astonishing
delicate substance.”
“I shall shortly have the pleasure of entertaining you upon that
subject; we will now return to our new ‘plat d’entrée.’”
Drawn by the frivolous fancy of fashion and folly of the times; why, I
thought, should not I endeavour to make myself as ridiculous as any
other person; I therefore submitted to the proprietor of a large china
establishment a drawing, from which he executed with great taste this
pagodatique table ornament.
“The several advantages which it possesses are easily understood, one
_entrée_ may have four different _sauces_, four _entrées_ the varieties
of sixteen, or of eight, by putting the sauce double, I mean two
compartments filled with the same sauce, and preserve the _entrée_ as
the Chinese do, _au naturel_. To add to its great variety, small
dinners (_très recherchés_) can be served upon it for one or two
persons, the sight of a small and delicate _entrée_ will sometimes
invite the appetite, where a large _entrée_ approaches too near
vulgarity, and would produce a contrary effect; to know how to live an
Epicurean in desire, is a great art, but so true it is, that if all our
wishes were accomplished life would be an enormous burthen; and nothing
can effect this important object but the delicacy and lightness of a
well-conceived dish. This once obtained, a first-rate epicure will not
only eat with a greater degree of zest and stimulation, but he will, at
the same time, enjoy the pleasurable sensations arising from his keen
and unerring discernment, that the sister twins, art and science, have
been busily employed in administering to his taste. I must also observe,
that, from his profound knowledge of the rules of life, he will always
bear in mind that ‘moderation is the goddess of health.’”
“Very true! very true!”
“For instance, a real epicure is well aware, and can appreciate that he
owes all the delights and pleasures of his existence to a good state of
health; for without it no one can enjoy the pleasures of life, and,
still less, the pleasure of _dégustation_; so true is this, that even
the company of our best and beloved friends, the possession of riches
and honours, the greatest celebrity and glory, lose their charms where
health is compromised; the most delicate food loses its zest, the most
melodious chords of music, and the greatest optical delights are
evanescent, the beauties of nature are lost, and everything is without
charm, even the sun--yes, that sun itself, which pours life upon
creation, importunes our wretched frame with his torrent of light and
universal splendour; which proves that we ought profoundly to study
those great agents of nature which preside over our organic movements.
Allowing us to use with moderation what our senses desire, is far from a
meagre or redoubtable privation for the illustrious disciples of
Epicurus; excess and want of experience have often been the cause of man
falling into the greatest errors, which have been most pernicious to his
health. From the celestial vault the indefinable power desires to guide
us safely, and by following his divine lesson we shall not only enjoy
extreme happiness, but obey the dictates of our great and wise Creator.”
“I perfectly understand your argument, and have often recognised the
profound truth of it. If it is not asking too much, would you be so kind
as to name a few _entrées_ you would recommend for these compartments,
and sufficient dinner for one or two ladies?”
“It will give me much pleasure to do so, I will mention several: for
instance, if a dinner for two persons, I would serve in the centre,
_filets de sole à la Hollandaise_, and in the four corners
Deux Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Pois,
Un Filet de Volaille, piqué à la Purée de Champignons,
Deux Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes,
Demi Perdreaux en Salmi.
Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux Pointes d’Asperges,
Quatre Rissoles aux Huîtres.
In the centre. Poulet printanier piqué aux Cressons,
Deux Cotelettes de Mouton à la _Réforme_,
Blanquette de Filets de Volaille aux Truffes.
Deux Filets de Grouse à la Bohémienne,
Deux Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf, sauce poivrade.
Centre. One slice of Salmon en Matelote,
Deux Croquettes de Volaille, à la Purée de Foie Gras,
Un Ris de Veau piqué à la Financière.
Deux Grenadins de Veau à la Palestine,
Deux Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu.
Centre. Roast Duckling,
Deux Eperlans frits à la Boulangère,
Salmi de Bécasse.
Deux Ris d’Agneau piqué à la Purée de Choufleurs.
Une Caille aux Feuilles de Vigne.
Centre. A slice of Turbot à la Mazarine,
Un Ailleron et Filet de Volaille à la Marengo,
Deux Rissolettes à la Pompadour.
“I can also give you a few plainer bills of fare for the same.
Pommes de Terre à la Maître d’Hôtel,
Carbonade de Mouton à la Provençale.
Centre. Small Rumpsteak,
Un Choufleur, sauce au beurre,
Un Pigeonneau à la Jardinière.
Choux de Bruxelles à la Crème,
Minced Veal and two poached Eggs.
Centre. Half a broiled Fowl with gravy,
Pomme de Terre à la Hollandaise,
Un Filet de Bœuf, sauce tomate.
Deux Cotelettes de Mouton à la Soubise,
Quatre Jérusalem Artichauts à la Béchamel.
Centre. Slice of Cod and Oyster sauce,
Minced Beef, sauce piquante,
Pomme de Terre frite.
Stewed Oysters,
Two Potatoes plain boiled.
Centre. Stewed Rabbit and Onion sauce,
Two Escalopes of Veal and Ham,
Un Brocoli, sauce au beurre.
“The sauces and garnitures of many of these may be varied; and as
you see in some of the lists two _entrées_ only served, and the
other two compartments filled with vegetables, either plain or
dressed, the centre remaining for something larger, either plain or
dressed, according to the taste of different persons; but your good
judgment will enable you to perceive clearly that the variations of
which it is capable are almost without end. I beg also to observe
that the dish, after having been placed an hour or two in a hot
closet (as it is customary to do with all dishes previous to the
dinner being served), will retain the heat nearly an hour, without
applying hot water, red-hot iron, or spirits of wine, which always
produces a disagreeable effect, and is often the cause of a dinner
being detained, as they must wait till the last minute before this
operation commences.”
“This essential part,” he replied, “added to its elegance, holds
out most favorable prospects of success to this beautiful
Pagodatique dish; and I really cannot see why, in a dinner of
eight, or ten _entrées_, the four corners could not be ornamented
with such dishes; as they would produce the most agreeable effects,
for too great uniformity in a service is not very picturesque, and
unfortunately always employed. I have only one more favour to ask
of you--it relates to those birds’ nests.”
“For the present I hope you will excuse me, as it is now five
o’clock, and from six to eight I have several _petits dîners très
recherchés_, which require all my attention; but favour me with
another visit shortly, and then we will terminate our culinary
conversation, without occupying our precious time about the
eccentric Chinese, but will confine ourselves to their nests.”
“You are quite right in mentioning it. I should be very sorry to
importune you, for I know too well what it is to wait impatiently
for a dinner, and know it to be equally as bad for a dinner to wait
for you.”
“Both are very bad, but the latter is almost unpardonable to a real
gourmet.”
“It may be, but observe, that by making a hungry stomach wait, you
expose it to commit the greatest injustice; because that ungrateful
organ will make one believe that the minutes you are kept waiting
before dinner are longer than the hours spent after.”
“Your argument is but too true, sir; and it will prove to you at
the same time, that there are immense difficulties to be surmounted
in our very difficult and complicated profession, independent of
the trouble and tedious work which must be carried safely through
the greatest anxiety.”
“Very true! very true! I wish you good afternoon; and before I
leave London I shall do myself the pleasure of paying you another
visit. Good day.”
“I can assure you, sir, you will be most welcome. Oh, by the by, I
am sorry to call you down stairs again, I will be with you in half
a minute; here it is,--I beg your acceptance of this small
brochure, it is a receipt for the most _recherché_ dish that ever
was invented; it is extracted from my gastronomic work now in
progress.”
“Oh! I am one of your subscribers; when will it appear?”
“Not before next season.”
“That’s a long time.”
“Yes, sir but it is my intention to make an entire new work of it,
and very different to any culinary work previously published. By
that I do not mean to say it will be better, and perhaps not so
good as many of them; but it will contain a large number of new
receipts, written in a style which, I flatter myself, will tend
very much to simplify the present system.”
“Let me see this receipt, but I require my spectacles--here they
are.--‘_La Crême de la Grande Bretagne, Macédoine_;’ but it is
French, I am sorry for that.”
“Why, sir?”
“Because my cook is English, and it will be very difficult for him
to make, as he understands so little of French.”
“Oh, sir, if that is his only preventive, it would be a pity to
deprive you of having it, so here is an English translation of it.
You are welcome to both, sir.”
“‘The Cream of Great Britain,’ oh! thank you! thank you! I will
read it at home, and then give it to him; but is it practicable at
this season of the year?”
“Quite as practicable at one season as another, for it is partly
composed of flowers which bloom in all seasons.”
“Indeed! then I will certainly have it made.”
“I depend upon your impartial judgment; be so kind as to let me
know what you think of that unique composition.”
“I will, without fail, and do myself the pleasure of writing you a
note upon that subject. Good afternoon.”
“Good afternoon, Sir.”
It has been reported to us, that as soon as he got home, he
comfortably set himself in his arm chair _à la Douarière_, and
appeared reading with great surprise the receipt for
THE CELESTIAL AND TERRESTRIAL CREAM OF GREAT BRITAIN.
Procure, if possible, the antique Vase of the Roman Capitol; the Cup of
Hebe; the Strength of Hercules; and the Power of Jupiter;
_Then proceed as follows_:
Have ready the chaste Vase (on the glittering rim of which three doves
are resting in peace), and in it deposit a smile from the Duchess of
Sutherland, from which Terrestrial Déesse it will be most graceful; then
add a Lesson from the Duchess of Northumberland; the Happy Remembrance
of Lady Byron; an Invitation from the Marchioness of Exeter; a Walk in
the Fairy Palace of the Duchess of Buckingham; an Honour of the
Marchioness of Douro; a Sketch from Lady Westmorland; Lady
Chesterfield’s Conversation; the Deportment of the Marchioness of
Aylesbury; the Affability of Lady Marcus Hill; some Romances of Mrs.
Norton; A Mite of Gold from Miss Coutts; A Royal Dress from the Duchess
of Buccleugh; a Reception from the Duchess of Leinster; a Fragment of
the Works of Lady Blessington; a Ministerial Secret from Lady Peel; a
Gift from the Duchess of Bedford; an Interview with Madame de Bunsen; a
Diplomatic Reminiscence from the Marchioness of Clanricarde; an
Autocratic Thought from the Baroness Brunow; a Reflection from Lady John
Russell; an Amiable Word from Lady Wilton; the Protection of the
Countess de St. Aulaire; a Seraphic Strain from Lady Essex; a Poetical
Gift of the Baroness de la Calabrala; a Welcome from Lady Alice Peel;
the Sylph-like Form of the Marchioness of Abercorn; a Soirée of the
Duchess of Beaufort; a Reverence of the Viscountess Jocelyn; and the
Goodwill of Lady Palmerston.
* * * * *
Season with the Piquante Observation of the Marchioness of Londonderry;
the Stately Mien of the Countess of Jersey; the Trésor of the Baroness
Rothchild; the Noble Devotion of Lady Sale; the Knowledge of the Fine
Arts of the Marchioness of Lansdowne; the Charity of the Lady De Grey: a
Criticism from the Viscountess of Melville:--with a Musical
Accompaniment from the whole; and Portraits of all these Ladies taken
from the Book of Celebrated Beauties.
Amalgamate scientifically; and should you find this _Appareil_, (which
is without a parallel,) does not mix well, do not regard the expense for
the completion of a dish worthy of the Gods!
Endeavour to procure, no matter at what price, a Virtuous Maxim from the
Book of Education of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent; a Kiss from
the Infant Princess Alice; an Innocent Trick of the Princess Royal; a
Benevolent Visit from the Duchess of Gloucester; a Maternal Sentiment of
Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cambridge; a Compliment from the
Princess Augusta de Mecklenbourg; the future Hopes of the Young Princess
Mary;----
And the Munificence of Her Majesty Queen Adelaide.
Cover the Vase with the Reign of Her Most Gracious Majesty, and let it
simmer for half a century, or more, if possible, over a Fire of Immortal
Roses.
Then uncover, with the greatest care and precision, this Mysterious
Vase; garnish the top with the Aurora of a Spring Morning; several Rays
of the Sun of France; the Serenity of an Italian Sky; and the Universal
Appreciation of the Peace of Europe.
Add a few Beams of the Aurora Borealis; sprinkle over with the Virgin
Snow of Mont Blanc; glaze with an Eruption of Mount Vesuvius; cause the
Star of the Shepherd to dart over it; and remove, as quickly as
possible, this _chef-d’œuvre_ of the nineteenth century from the
Volcanic District.
Then fill Hebe’s Enchanted Cup with a religious Balm, and with it
surround this mighty Cream of Immortality.
Terminate with the Silvery Light of the Pale Queen of Night, without
disturbing a Ray of the Brilliancy of the brightest Queen of the Day.
NOTE. “We are authorised by the Author to inform his readers, that
even up to this moment of finishing the printing, no answer has
been received from the Gourmet before mentioned, stating his
opinions with regard to the Cream of Great Britain, on account, as
we have been informed, of his cook not having as yet been able to
complete the Dish--J. E. Adlard.”
[Illustration: The above Cut represents the “Dindonneau a la Nelson.”
(see p. 510)]
[Illustration: “Poulardes en Diademe,” (see p. 515.)]
[Illustration: Galantine a la Voliere, (No 1012.)]
[Illustration: Salade de Grouse a la Soyer. (No 1038)]
[Illustration: Mayonaise de Homard. (No. 1045)]
[Illustration: Three Croustades of Bread for the Centre of Removes.
Garnish of Silver Attelettes]
[Illustration: Croustade for the Turkey a la Nelson (No. 510)]
[Illustration: Croustade for Filet de Bœuf a la Joan d’Arc. (No.
410)]
[Illustration: Croustade for the Poulardes en Diademe (No. 515)]
[Illustration: Lucile Grahn and Cerito’s Sultane Sylphs a la Fille de
l’Orage, (No. 1315) Garnish with a Silver Terpsichorean Attelette.]
[Illustration: Gateau Britannique a l’Amiral. (No. 1298.)]
[Illustration: Three Jelly Moulds, from which when the Jelly is turned
it must be surmounted with Attelettes of Fruit.]
[Illustration: Three Cylinder Jelly Moulds.]
[Illustration: Attelettes
The above attelettes are quite new, the four huge ones being used for
flancs or removes, and garnished as represented in the plate containing
the croustades. They may also be garnished with vegetables turned of a
good shape, and lightly stewed. The one representing a dolphin is used
to garnish dressed fish, but must always be fixed upon a croustade,
either at the head or in the centre of the dish, but not so as to
interfere with the carving. The one representing a shell, as well as the
last mentioned, are also used for any kind of aiguillettes or hors
d’œuvres (page 161); the four smaller ones are to be lightly
garnished with fresh fruits, and fixed upon the top of the jelly, the
moulds for which are entitled jelly-moulds for attelettes; the heads of
these last four smaller attelettes should be made with gold, to
correspond well with the richness of colour of the jelly.]
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
To render the Table of Contents more Intelligible, the mere translation
of all Comestibles and Ingredients have been Introduced. The translation
of proper names would be useless.
PAGE
FOUNDATION SAUCES.
Brown sauce, 1
Espagnole sauce, 2
Brown sauce from all sorts of meat, 4
For thickening brown sauce without making a roux, 5
Velouté, ib.
Velouté, a plainer way, 7
White sauce, or béchamel, ib.
Sauce Allemande (or German sauce blanche), 8
Demi-glace, 9
THIN SAUCES.
Sauce au jus d’Estragon (tarragon), ib.
Jus d’Estragon clair (clear), 10
Sauce au jus de Tomates, ib.
au jus de Champignons (mushrooms), ib.
demi-provençale, 11
au jus Piquant (sharp), ib.
d’Echalotte, ib.
d’Orange, ib.
de Bigarades (bitter oranges), 12
Jus lié demi Currie, ib.
aux Concombres (cucumbers), ib.
Truffles, 13
Anchois (anchovy), ib.
fines Herbes, ib.
petits Navets (turnips), 14
Olives, ib.
SAUCES.
Sauce aux fines Herbes, ib.
piquante (sharp), 15
Robert, ib.
Robert demi-provençale, ib.
à l’Italienne, 16
à l’Italienne (white), ib.
poivrade, ib.
poivrade demi-provençale, 17
à la Batelière, ib.
à la Réforme, ib.
au jus de Groseilles (currant jelly), 18
Sauce aux Tomates, ib.
à la Tartare, 19
Papillote Sauce, ib.
Sauce à la Diable, 20
Corinthien, ib.
Provençal chaude, 21
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
à 1a Ravigote, ib.
à l’Indienne, ib.
Curry Sauce, 22
Sauce Soubise, ib.
Soubise (brown), 23
à la Milanaise, ib.
à la Financière, ib.
aux Truffes, 24
aux Champignons (mushrooms), ib.
à la purée de Truffes, ib.
à la purée de Champignons (mushrooms), 25
Périgueux, ib.
Béchamel à la Crème, ib.
au Suprême, 26
Velouté de Gibier (game), ib.
Sauce à la purée de Gibier (ditto), 27
au fumée do Gibier (ditto), ib.
Demi-glace de Gibier (ditto), ib.
Sauce matelote, 28
Genevoise, ib.
à la Beyrout, ib.
à l’essence de Poissions (of fish), 29
à la Hollandaise (Dutch), ib.
Caper Sauce, 30
Lobster Sauce, ib.
Oyster Sauce, ib.
another method, 13
a plainer method, ib.
Muscle Sauce, ib.
Melted Butter, ib.
Anchovy Sauce, 32
Shrimp Sauce, ib.
Demi Maître d’Hôtel Sauce, ib.
Fennel Sauce, 32
Egg Sauce, ib.
Lobster Butter, 33
Anchovy Butter, ib.
Maître d’Hôtel Butter, ib.
Ravigote Butter, ib.
SAUCES AND GARNITURES OF VEGETABLES.
Purée de Choux de Bruxelles (Brussell sprouts), 34
Sauce aux Choux de Bruxelles, ib.
Haricots verts (French beans), 35
Petit Pois à l’Anglaise (peas), ib.
Petits Pois au Lard (ditto), ib.
Purée de Pois vert (ditto), ib.
A la Palestine (of artichokes), 36
Palestine à la Bourgeoise, ib.
Palestine au maigre, ib.
Purée d’Artichauts (artichokes), 37
Purée à la Palestine maigre, ib.
Navets Vierges (turnips), ib.
Ragout de Navets à brun (ditto), 38
Purée de Navets à blanc (ditto), ib.
Purée Navets à brun (ditto), 38
Sauce aux Chouxfleurs (cauliflower), 39
Purée de Chouxfleurs (ditto), ib.
Macédoine de Légumes (vegetables), ib.
(brown), 40
Jardinière (vegetables), ib.
Pointes d’Asperges en petits-pois, 41
Purée d’Asperges (sprue grass), ib.
Concombres à blanc (cucumbers), ib.
Concombres à brun, 42
Purée de Concombres, ib.
Epinard au Jus (spinach), 43
Blanched Mushrooms, ib.
Purée d’Oseille (sorrel), 44
Ragout aux jeunes Racines (young vegetables), ib.
de petits Oignons (onions), ib.
de petits Oignons à blanc, 45
Garniture de fond d’Artichauts, ib.
de Haricots blancs nouveaux, ib.
Gros Oignons farcis (beans), 46
Stewed Cabbage Lettuce, ib.
Chou braisé and Choucroute, ib.
Stewed Celery for Garniture and Celery Sauce, 47
Chouxfleurs for garnitures (cauliflowers), ib.
Chicorée, or Endive Sauce, 48
_Appendix to the Sauces._
Forcemeat of Veal, 48
Forcemeat of Rabbits, 49
Fowl, ib.
Game, 50
Whitings, ib.
Panada for Forcemeats, ib.
Forcemeat of Cod’s Liver, ib.
Veal Stuffing, 51
To prepare Cockscombs, ib.
To boil Rice, ib.
To blanch Macaroni, 52
Croquettes de Pommes de Terre (potatoes), ib.
Glaze, ib.
POTAGES OR SOUPS.
Clear light Broth, or first Stock, 53
Consommé, or clear Soup, ib.
Brown Gravy, 55
Potage à la Victoria, 56
Louis Philippe, 57
Prince of Wales, ib.
Comte de Paris, 58
Princesse Royale, 59
Saxe Cobourg, 60
Comtesse, 61
Gresham, ib.
Colbert, 63
Clermont, ib.
Macédoine de Légumes, 63
à la Jardinière, ib.
Julienne, ib.
aux petits Navets à brun (turnips), 64
à la Printanière, ib.
Jérusalem, 65
Marcus Hill, ib.
aux pointes d’Asperges et Œufs
pochés (asparagus and poached eggs), 66
à la Brunoise, ib.
Nivernaise, 67
Palestine, ib.
purée de Navets (turnips), ib.
purée d’Asperges (asparagus), 68
Crécy, ib.
purée de Choufleur (cauliflower), 69
purée de Concombres (cucumbers), ib.
purée de Pois verts (peas), 70
Clear Giblet Soup, ib.
Potage aux Queues de Bœuf (clair) (ox tails), 71
aux Queues d’Agneau (lambs’ tails), ib.
aux Queues de Veau (clair) (calf’s tail), 2
à la Duchesse, ib.
Clear Grouse Soup, 73
Partridge Soup, ib.
Pheasant Soup, ib.
Woodcock Soup, ib.
Hare Soup, 74
Potage clair à la Poissonière (fish soap), ib.
Grouse Soup, 75
Pheasant Soup, 76
Partridge Soup, ib.
Hare Soup, ib.
Purée of all kinds of Game, mixed or separate, 77
Giblet Soup, ib.
Potage à la Reine, 78
à la Regente, ib.
Soup Mulligatawny, ib.
Potage Queues de Veau à blanc (calves’ tails), 79
Queues de Veau à l’Indienne, ib.
Tête de Veau à l’Indienne (calf’s head), 80
Potage Queues de Bœuf à l’Indienne (oxtails), 80
Queues de Bœuf à l’Anglaise, ib.
aux Huîtres (oysters), 81
aux Filets de Soles (soles), ib.
à la Poissonnière, 82
d’Anguille (eels), ib.
de Homard (lobster), 83
à la Chanoinaise, ib.
Pâte d’Italie, 84
au Vermicelle, ib.
à la Semoule (semoulina), ib.
au Riz (rice), ib.
au Macaroni, 85
au Macaroni en rubans, ib.
Turtle Soup, ib.
Clear Turtle Soup, 87
Mock Turtle Soup, 88
_Method of cleaning Salt-water Fish._
Turbot, 90
Brill, ib.
John Dory, ib.
Cod-fish, ib.
Whitings, 91
Haddocks, ib.
Salmon, 91
Soles, ib.
Mackerel, 92
Red Mulletts, ib.
Gurnets, ib.
Herrings, ib.
Smelts, ib.
_Method of cleaning Fresh-water Fish._
Carp, ib.
Pike, 93
Trout, ib.
Tench, ib.
Perch, 94
Eels, ib.
Lampreys, ib.
POISSONS (FISH).
Turbot, to boil, 95
à la Crème (cream), ib.
sauce Homard (lobster), 96
à la Hollandaise, ib.
Mazarine, ib.
en Matelote Normande, 97
en Matelote vierge, 98
à la Réligieuse, ib.
Crème (gratiné), 99
Poissonnière, ib.
Crème d’Anchois (anchovy), 100
Small Turbot à la Meunière, ib.
Turbot au gratin à la Provençale, 101
Brill au naturel, ib.
Brill à la purée de Câpres (capers), 101
à la Hollandaise, 102
aux Câpres (capers), ib.
à la Meunière, ib.
sauce Homard (lobster), ib.
à la Billingsgate, ib.
au gratin, 103
à la Crème d’Anchois (anchovy), ib.
Filets de Brill à la Juive, ib.
en Matelote, 104
John Dorée, ib.
à l’Orléannaise, ib.
en Matelote Marinière, 105
à la Crèmière, ib.
en Ravígote, 106
à la purée de Crevettes (shrimps), ib.
Batelière, ib.
Crème (gratiné), 107
Hollandaise, ib.
Saumon (plain salmon), ib.
au naturel, ib.
Crimped Salmon an naturel, 10.
Saumon en Matelote Marinière, ib.
à la Mazarine, ib.
Hollandaise, ib.
Cardinal, ib.
à l’Amiral, 109
en Matelote Saxone, ib.
à la Beyrout, ib.
à la Pêcheuse, 110
à l’Ecailière, ib.
à la Crème d’Anchois, 111
au gratin à la Provençale, ib.
à la Crème (gratiné), ib.
Sole en Matelote Normande, ib.
au gratin, 112
à la Poltaise, 113
à la Hollandaise, ib.
aux fines Herbes, ib.
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
à l’Italienne, 114
Soles plain fried, ib.
Sole à la Colbert, 116
Meunière, ib.
Crème d’Anchois, ib.
Filets de Soles en Matelote, ib.
au gratin, 116
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Hollandaise, ib.
Italienne, 117
en Ravigote, ib.
à l’Orlie, ib.
à la Réforme, 118
aux Huîtres (oysters), ib.
Cod-fish an naturel, 119
Cabillaud aux Huîtres (oysters), ib.
à la Béchamel, ib.
Collégienne, ib.
Noble Dame, 120
Stewed Cod à l’Ecossaise, ib.
Cabillaud entier à la Bourgeoise, ib.
à la Rachel, 121
Slices of Cod à la Montefiore, ib.
Cabillaud à la Crème (gratiné), 121
Provençale, ib.
Juive, ib.
Hollandaise, 122
Salt Fish, ib.
Salt Cod à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Sait Fish à la Bourgmestre, ib.
Red Mullets à l’Italienne, 123
à la Vénitienne, ib.
Ravigote, ib.
Fillets of Mullets à la Montesquieu, 124
à l’Italienne, ib.
Vénitienne, ib.
sauce Ravigote, ib.
à la Mazarine, ib.
Whitings, to fry them, 125
Whiting au gratin, ib.
Whitings broiled, ib.
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Fillets of Whitings fried, 128
à la Hollandaise, ib.
à l’Italienne, ib.
Whiting à l’Huile (oil), ib.
Mackerel, ib.
à la Maître d’Hôtel, 127
Fillets of Mackerel à la Dumas, ib.
Mackerel au beurre noir (black butter), ib.
Fillets of Mackerel a la Vénitienne, 128
Dublin Bay Haddock à la bonne Femme, ib.
Dublin Bay Haddock, baked, 129
Common Haddock, plain, ib.
Haddock à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Walter Scott, 130
Fillets of Haddock à la St. Paul, ib.
Hollandaise, ib.
Gurnets and Pipers, ib.
Roast Gurnet, 131
Fillets of Gurnets en matelote, ib.
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
à l’Italienne, ib.
Herrings broiled, sauce Digon, 132
plain boiled, ib.
Boiled Herrings à la Crème, ib.
Skate plain boiled, ib.
au beurre noir (black butter), 133
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Smelts, to fry them, ib.
à la Juive, 134
Boulangère, ib.
Atelettes d’Eperlans à la Menagère, ib.
Buisson d’Eperlans (smelts), ib.
Flounders, water souchet, 135
à la Greenwich, ib.
plain fried, ib.
broiled, ib.
Plaice, ib.
Whitebait, 136
Sturgeon, ib.
à la Chancelière, ib.
_Shell Fish._
Lobsters, 137
Crabs, 138
Muscles, ib.
Oysters, 139
_Fresh-water Fish._
Pike roasted, ib.
à la Chambord, ib.
Pike en matelote, 141
à la Hollandaise, ib.
Small Pike a la Meunière, ib.
Pike with caper sauce, ib.
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
à l’Egyptienne, 142
Fillets of Pike a la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
en matelote, ib.
à la Meunière, 143
Carpe en matelote, ib.
à la Génoise, ib.
Stewed Carp à la Marquise, 144
Carp with caper sauce, ib.
Carp fried, ib.
Tench en matelote, ib.
à la Beyrout, 145
Poulette, ib.
sauce aux Moules (muscles), ib.
fried or broiled, ib.
Perch à la Hollandaise, 146
Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Small Perches en water souchet, ib.
frits an beurre (fried in butter), ib.
Trout plain boiled, 147
Trout à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Génoise, ib.
Baked Trout, ib.
Trout à la Beyrout, ib.
Fillets of Trout à la Mazarine, 148
Eels fried, ib.
à la Tartare, ib.
Spitchcocked Eels, ib.
Stewed Eels, ib.
Eels en matelote, 149
Lampreys, ib.
Crawfish, ib.
HORS-D’ŒUVRES, OR DISHES TO BE HANDED
ROUND THE TABLE.
Petits Vol-au-Vents à la Moëlle de Bœuf (beef marrow), 151
au laitance de Maquereau (mackerel), 153
au foie de Raie (skate liver), ib.
aux Huîtres (oysters), ib.
de Homard (lobster,) 153
Petites Bouchées à la Moëlle de Bœuf, ib.
an laitance de Maquereau, ib.
an foie de Raie, ib.
aux Huîtres, 154
de Homard, ib.
à la Reine, ib.
purée de Volaille (of fowl), ib.
de Gibier (of game), 155
Petites Bouchées à la purée de Gibier, 155
Petits Pâtés à la Pâtissière, ib.
aux Huîtres à la Pâtissière, 156
de Homard à la Pâtissière, ib.
of Shrimps or Prawns à la Pâtissière, ib.
Rissoles aux Huîtres (oysters), ib.
de Homard (lobster), 157
of Shrimps, ib.
de laitances de Maquereaux (mackerel), 158
de Gibier (of game), ib.
de Volaille (of fowl), 159
Croustade de Beurre (butter), ib.
à la Duke of York, 160
Croquettes de Homard (lobster), ib.
Aiguillettes de Ris de Veau (sweetbread), 161
(escalopes) aux Huîtres (oysters), ib.
de Homard (lobster), 162
de filets de Sole, ib.
aux Huîtres (oysters), ib.
de Homard (lobster), 163
de Sole, ib.
de Volaille à la jolie fille, ib.
REMOVES.
Croustades of Bread for removes, 164
To obtain, lard, and dress a Fillet of Beef ib.
Fillet of Beef à la Jeanne d’Arc, 165
à la Beyrout, 166
an jus d’Orange, ib.
au jus de Tomate, ib.
à la Napolitaine, ib.
Strasbourgienne, 167
Napolitaine, 168
Milanaise, ib.
Bohémienne, 169
Romaine, 170
Stewed Rump of Beef à la Flamande, 171
aux Oignons glacés (onions), 172
à la Voltaire, ib.
Portugaise, 173
Jeanne d’Arc, 174
Beyrout, ib.
Macédoine de légumes (of vegetables), ib.
sauce piquante (sharp), ib.
sauce tomate, 175
Stewed Sirloin of Beef, ib.
à la Printanière, ib.
Ribs of Beef à la Jean Bart, 176
Ox Tongues, 177
Loin of Veal à la Cambacères, ib.
Macédoine de légumes (of vegetables), 178
purée de Céleri, ib.
Strasbourgienne, ib.
Fillet of Veal à la Princière, 179
Versaillienne, 180
Palestine Artichokes, ib.
Jardinière, ib.
Potagère, 181
Fillet of Veal aux petits pois (peas), ib.
Neck of Veal à la purée de céleri, ib.
Rouennaise, 182
Milanaise, ib.
Bruxellaise, ib.
Breast of Veal, 183
aux pois fins à l’Anglaise (peas), ib.
a la purée de Céleri, 184
sauce tomate, ib.
Calf’s Head, ib.
an naturel, 185
Half a Calf’s Head à la Luxembourg, 186
Tête de Veau en Tortue (calf’s head), 187
Calf’s Head à la Pottinger, 188
in currie, ib.
Saddle of Mutton à la Brétonne, 189
au Laver, ib.
à la Polonaise, ib.
Marseillaise, 190
rôti, braisé, à la Mirabeau (roast, braised), 191
rôti, braisé, aux légumes glacés (vegetables), ib.
Haunch of Mutton, ib.
au jus de Groseilles (currant jelly), ib.
à la Brétonne, 192
Polonaise, ib.
Bohémienne, ib.
aux légumes glacés (vegetables), 193
Leg of Mutton à la Bohémienne, ib.
Brétonne, ib.
au Laver, ib.
à la Provençale, ib.
Gigot de Mouton de sept heures (seven hours), 193
Necks of Mutton à la Légumière, 194
Brétonne, 195
Neck of Mutton à la Bohémienne, 195
Provençale, ib.
Charte, ib.
Breast of Mutton panée, grillée, sauce piquante, 196
Saddle of Lamb aux petits pois à la Sévigné, ib.
à l’Indienne, ib.
Demi Provençale, 198
à la Ménagère, ib.
Haunch of Lamb, 199
Fore-quarter of Lamb à l’Hôtelière, ib.
House Lamb aux pointes d’asperges (sprue grass), ib.
Ribs of Lamb à la Chancelière, ib.
Leg of Lamb à la St. John, 200
aux pois (with peas), ib.
Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach, 201
à la Palestine, ib.
Roast Leg of Lamb à la Jardinière, ib.
Shoulder of Lamb à la Bruxellaise, ib.
Polonaise, ib.
_Pork._
Leg of Pork sauce Robert, 202
à la Piedmontaise, ib.
Loin of Pork à la Bourguignote, 203
Neck of Pork à la Remoulade, à l’Indienne, 203
à la Vénitienne, ib.
Roast Sucking Pig, 204
Sucking Pig à la Savoyarde, ib.
Turkey à la Nelson, 205
Godard, 206
Chipolata, 207
Small Turkey à la Duchesse, 208
Poularde à l’Ambassadrice, ib.
Poulardes en Diadème, 210
à la Vicomtesse, 211
Jeanne d’Arc, ib.
Jeune Princesse, 212
Financière, 213
Varsovienne, ib.
aux légumes printaniers (spring vegetables), 214
légumes verte (green ditto), 215
Petits Poulets à la Warenzorf, ib.
Périgord à blanc, 216
Macédoine de légumes, 217
à l’Indienne, ib.
au jus d’estragon (tarragon), 218
à la Marie Stuart, ib.
Petits Poussins à la Chanoinaise, ib.
Petits Poulets à la Printanière (spring chickens), 219
Tartare, ib.
Maréchal, 220
Goose à la Chipolata, ib.
stuffed with chesnuts, ib.
à la Portugaise, 221
Ducklings aux olives, ib.
au jus d’orange (orange-juice), ib.
aux légumes printaniers (spring vegetables), ib.
à la Chartres, ib.
Haunch of Venison, ib.
Doe Venison à la Corinthienne, 223
Necks of Doe Venison à la Corinthienne, 224
Necks of Venison à la Bohémienne, ib.
Faisans à la Corsaire (pheasants), ib.
Garde Chasse, 225
truffés à la Piémontaise, 226
à l’Extravagante, ib.
Grouse à la Rob Roy, 228
Corsaire, ib.
Piémontaise, ib.
Garde Chasse, ib.
Of Black Cocks and Gray Hens, 229
Hare à la Macgregor, ib.
Levraut à la Coursière (leveret), ib.
FLANCS.
Fillet of Beef piqué aux légumes printaniers (spring vegetables), 230
Filet de Bœuf an jus de groseilles, 231
Fillet of Beef à la Beyrout, ib.
Langue de Bœuf à la Marquise (ox-tongue), ib.
Langue de Bœuf à la Prima Donna, 233
St. Aulaire, ib.
Jardinière, 233
Milanaise, ib.
Westphalia Ham, small, ib.
Loin of Veal à la Cambaçéres, 234
Crèmière, ib.
Noix de Veau piqué au Jus (knuckle of veal), ib.
à la Potagère, 235
Palestine, 236
aux légumes nouveaux (new vegetables), ib.
à la purée de Champignons (mushrooms), ib.
Prince Albert, 237
Neck of Veal à la St. Claire, ib.
Calf’s Head à la Constantine, ib.
Neck of Mutton demi Provençale, 238
à la Soubise, ib.
à l’Algérienne, 239
à la Portugaise, ib.
Loin of Mutton en Carbonade, 240
Carbonade de Mouton à la Bourguinote, ib.
Saddle of Lamb à la Bonne Fermière, 241
Shoulder of Lamb farei aux Truffles, ib.
à la Financière, 242
purée de pois vert (of green peas), ib.
Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Neck of Lamb aux légumes printaniers, ib.
aux petite pois (with peas), ib.
à la Bruxellaise, 243
Douarière, ib.
Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Petits Poussins à la Moskovite (chicken), ib.
Ecarlate, 244
Palestine, 245
Vénltienne, ib.
Prince Albert, ib.
au jus d’Estragon (tarragon), 246
à la Chevalière, ib.
Marengo, 247
Ducklings aux petits pois au lard (with peas), ib.
au jus d’Orange, 248
Faisans à la Fontainbleau, ib.
à la purée de Gibier (game), 249
truffés à la Piémontaise, ib.
à l’Amiral, 250
Grouse, ib.
Chartreuse de Perdreaux (of partridges), ib.
de Perdreaux à l’Impérial, 251
de Perdreaux à la Moderne, 252
Perdreaux à la Mecklenbourg, ib.
purée de Gibier (of game), 253
truffés à la Périgord, ib.
Levraut sauce poivrade (leveret), ib.
au jus de groseilles, 254
Lapereaux à la Tavernière (rabbits), ib.
Jardinière, 255
aux petite pois (peas), ib.
à la Villageoise, ib.
Bourgmestre, 256
Anglaise, ib.
Pâté chaud d’Agneau (lamb), 256
de Mouton à l’Irlandaise, 227
d’Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf, ib.
d’Escalopes de Veau et de Ris de Venu, 258
de Volaille (fowl), ib.
Pigeonneaux, 259
Lapereau (rice), 260
Vol-au-vent, ib.
Casserole de Riz (rabbits), ib.
aux queues d’Agneau (lambs’ tails), 261
queues de Veau (calves’ ditto), ib.
pieds d’Agneau (lambs’ feet), ib.
pieds de Mouton (sheep’s ditto), 262
à la Napolitaine, ib.
Polonaise à la Koroski, 263
à la Royale, ib.
Chevalière, 264
ENTREES
Of Beef for Entrées, 266
Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf à la Réforme, ib.
Gotha, 267
Portugaise, 268
Nemours, ib.
Ostende, 269
piqué à la Chasseur, 270
Other Entrées of Fillets of Beef, ib.
Aiguillette de Langue de Bœuf en papillote (ox-tongue), 271
Turban de Langue de Bœuf à l’Ecarlate, 272
Langue de Bœuf à la Jardinière, ib.
Langue de Bœuf, sauce piquante, 273
Queues de Bœuf aux navets au brun (turnips), ib.
à la Jardinière, 274
Queues de Bœuf (ox-tails) sauce aux cornichons (gherkins), 274
Queues de Bœuf en Currie, ib.
à la Sicilienne, 275
Marseillaise, ib.
To prepare and dress Palates of Beef, ib.
Palates de Bœuf à la Ravigote, 276
Atelettes de Palates de Bœuf, 277
Palates de Bœuf à la Vivandière, ib.
Turban de Palate de Bœuf au gratin, 278
Vol-au-vent de Palate de Bœuf, ib.
Paluies de Bœuf en Papillote, ib.
Turban de Tête de Veau en Tortue (calf’s head), 279
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Hollandaise, 280
Poulette, ib.
Indienne, ib.
Oreilles de Veau farci (calves’ ears), 281
en Marinade, ib.
Langues de Veau aux Champignons (calves’ tongues with mushrooms), ib.
Calves’ Brains, 282
Queues de Veau à la Ravigote (calves’ tails), ib.
à la Poulette, 283
Of Sweetbreads, 283
Ris de Veau à la Santa Cruz (calfs’ sweetbread), ib.
piqué à la Turque, 284
piqué à la Financière, 285
piqué à la purée d’Asperges, ib.
rôti (roasted), ib.
Caisse de Ris de Veau a la Ninon de l’Enclos, 286
Escalopes de Ris de Veau au suprême, ib.
aux pointes d’Asperges, 287
à l’Indienne, ib.
en caisses, ib.
Atelettes de Ris de Veau, 288
Blanquette de Ris de Veau aux truffes, ib.
Vol-au-vent de Ris de Veau, 289
Of Tendrons de Veau (of veal), ib.
Tendrons de Veau à la Noble Dame, ib.
à la Dauphine, 290
Côtelettes de Veau piqués aux petits pois (with peas), ib.
Côtelettes de Veau en Papillote, 291
à la Sans Façon, ib.
Noix de Veau for Entré, 292
Grenadins de Veau piqué aux racines nouvelles (young vegetables), ib.
Of Veal Kidneys, ib.
Veal Kidneys en Caisses, 293
Boudin de Veau à la Legumière, ib.
à la Richelieu, 294
Of Mutton for Entrées, ib.
Cotelettes de Mouton à la Reforme, ib.
Viscomtesse, 295
Westphalienne, 296
Provençale, 297
Bohémienne, ib.
Soubis, 298
Durcelle, ib.
aux petites racines, 299
sauce piquante (sharp), ib.
à la Jardinière, ib.
aux champignons (mushrooms), ib.
aux navets au brun (turnips), ib.
Cotelettes de Mouton à la Palestine, 300
aux pointes d’asperges (asparagus points), ib.
aux haricots verts (French beans), 301
petits pois (peas), ib.
choufleurs (cauliflowers), ib.
truffes, ib.
à la Maintenon, 302
sauce rémoulade, ib.
à la Financière, ib.
Maître d’Hôtel, 303
Hollandaise, ib.
panée, grillé (crumbed, broiled), ib.
Of Cotelettes braised, 304
Cotelettes de Mouton braisées à la Marseillaise, ib.
Carbonade of Mutton, 305
Poitrine de Mouton sauce piquante (breast of mutton), ib.
Rognons de Mouton à la brochette (sheeps’ kidneys), ib.
Rognons à la Tartare, 306
de Mouton à la Vénitienne, ib.
sautés au vin de champagne, ib.
Pieds de Mouton à la Poulette (sheep’s feet), 307
Pieds de Mouton à la purée d’oignons, ib.
_Entrées of Lamb._
Pieds d’Agneau (lambs’ feet), ib.
farcis (stuffed), 308
en marinade, ib.
cartouche, ib.
Oreilles d’Agneau à la Belle Fermière (lambs’ ears), 309
Oreilles d’Agneau à la Marquise, ib.
Ravigote, 310
Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
en marinade, ib.
farcis, ib.
Queues d’Agneau à la Crèmière (lambs’ tails), 311
Langue d’Agneau à la Persane, ib.
Lambs’ Brains à l’Innocent, 312
Lamb’s Fry, ib.
Ris d’Agneau aux petits pois (lamb’s sweetbread), 313
Ris d’Agneau à la Cambaçères, ib.
aux concombres (cucumbers), 314
à la Madone, ib.
Epigramme d’Agneau aux haricots verts (beans), 315
Epigramme d’Agneau aux petits pois (peas) ib.
concombres, 316
à l’Ancienne, ib.
Cotelettes d’Agneau aux petits pois, ib.
pointes d’asperges (asparagus tops), 317
haricots verts (beans), ib.
aux racines glacées, ib.
jeunes oignons (young onions), 318
à la Palestine, ib.
Vicomtesse, ib.
purée de truffes, 319
purée de champignons (mushrooms), ib.
purée d’artichauts, ib.
farcis aux truffes, 320
farcis aux champignons, ib.
Blanquette d’Agneau (lamb), 321
Croquettes d’Agneau, ib.
_Entrées of Pork._
Cotelettes de Porc à l’Indienne, 322
sauce remoulade, ib.
à la Siamoise, ib.
Bolognaise, 323
Jeune France, ib.
Filets de Porc à l’Hanovérienne, 324
Escalopes de Porc à la Lyonnaise, ib.
Langue de Porc demi salé (pig’s tongue), 325
_Doe Venison, or Chevreuil._
Cotelettes de Chevreuil à la Bohémienne, 325
sautés sauce poivrade, 326
Minced Chevreuil, 326
Of the Wild Boar, 327
Of Venison for Entrées, ib.
Cotelettes de Venaison en demi-glace, ib.
aux olives, 328
au jus de groseilles (currant jelly), ib.
Hashed Venison, ib.
Venison Pie, 329
_Entrées of Poultry._
_Turkeys._
Estomac de Dinde à la Turenne, 329
Jeune Comtesse, 330
Escalopes de Dinde en blanquette, ib.
á la Belle Fermière, 331
Emincée de Dinde à l’Italienne, ib.
Blanquette de Dinde au Jambon (ham), ib.
Filets de Poulardes à l’Ambassadrice, 332
Marie Stuart, ib.
Talma, 333
Russe, 334
Pierre te Grand, 335
Dumas, 336
Blanc de Poularde aux concombres (cucumbers), ib.
Cuisses de Poulardes à la Talleyrand de Périgord, 337
au Soleil, 338
à l’Ecuillère, ib.
farcis aux petits légumes (vegetables), 339
en fricassée à l’Hôtelière, ib.
a la Bayonnnaise, 340
Entrées of Spring Chickens, Pullets, Fowls, &c., ib.
Filets de Volaille à la Sévigné (fowl), 341
Néva, ib.
sauté au Suprème, 342
aux truffes, ib.
à la Béchamel, 343
aux champignons (mushrooms), ib.
à la Béchamel, ib.
Filets de Poulet à l’Ambassadrice, ib.
à la Strasbourgienne, 344
Filets de Volaille a la Duchesse, ib.
Epigramme de Filets de Volaille à la Josephine, 345
Filets de Volaille aux concombres (cucumbers), ib
Fricassée de Poulet à la Chevalière, ib
Ancienne, 347
_Spring Chickens._
Petits Poulets Printaniers sautés aux truffes (spring chickens), ib.
Poulet Printanier braisé à la Financière, 348
Petits Poulets Printaniers sauce rémoulade (chaude), ib
Poulet Printanier grillé aux champignons confite (pickled mushrooms), 349
Cuisses de Volaille truffés à la Périgord, ib.
à la Dino, 350
braisé aux concombres (cucumbers), ib.
braisé aux pois (peas), ib.
en fricassée à l’Ancienne, 351
à la Marengo, ib.
Poulet à la Provençale, ib.
Turban de Quenelles de Volaille à la Russe, 352
Quenelles de Volaille à l’Ecarlate, ib.
aux concombres, ib.
en demi deuil, 353
à la York Minster, 354
Pair de France, ib.
Silène, ib.
Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu, 355
Sully, ib.
Croquettes de Volaille aux truffes, 356
au Jambon (with ham), ib.
Rissolettes de Volaille à la Pompadour, 357
Filets de Canetons aux petits pois (ducklings with peas), 358
Filets de Canetons à la chicorée, ib.
(with endive), ib.
Filets de Canetons à la macédoine de légumes (vegetables), ib.
an jus d’Orange, 359
farcis, ib.
_Entrées of Game._
_Hares._
Filets de Lièvre sauce Réforme (hare), 360
piqué sauce poivrade, ib.
à la Bourguignote, ib.
mariné en demi-glace, 361
Escalopes de Lièvre à la Chasseur, ib.
Cotelettes de Lièvre à la Dauphine, 362
Turban de Lièvre à la Péronne, ib.
_Rabbits._
Filets de Lapereau à la Valenciennes (rabbit), 363
Ecarlate, ib.
Turban de Lapereau à la Douarière, 364
Epigramme de Filets de Lapereau, ib.
Filets de Lapereau à la Musulmane, 365
Cotelettes de Lapereau aux petites rucines, ib.
Lapereau sauté aux truffes, ib.
à la Marengo, 366
Rabbit Currie, ib.
Fricassée de Lapereau, ib.
_Pheasants._
Faisans au velouté de Gibier (pheasants), 367
à la purée de Gibier, ib.
Filets de Faisans à la Comte de Brabant, 368
Filets de Faisans piqués aux légumes (vegetables), 368
Turban de Faisans en salmi, ib.
Filets de Faisans à la Marquise, 369
Maintenon, ib.
Turban de Quenelles de Faisans, 370
_Grouse._
Grouse à la Commodore, ib.
Filets de Grouse à la Paoli, 371
Chancelière, ib.
Salmi de Grouse aux truffes, 372
Grouse à la Ailsa, ib.
Turban de Quenelles de Grouse à la Moderne, 373
_Partridges._
Perdreaux à la Silène (partridges), ib.
grillés à la purée de Gibier, 374
aux choux (cabbage), ib.
Chartreuses de Perdreaux, ib.
Filets de Perdreaux aux petite légumes, 375
à la Florentine, ib.
Cotelettes de Perdreaux à la Bacchante, ib.
Douarière, 376
Duc de Chartres, ib.
Epigramme de Perdreaux à l’essence de Gibier, 377
aux Champignons (mushrooms), ib.
Turban des Filets de Perdreaux à la Périgord, ib.
Turban de Quenelles de Perdreaux à la Berri, ib.
_Wild Ducks._
Filets de Canetons Sauvages à l’essence
(wild ducklings), 378
Syrienne, ib.
au jus d’Orange, 379
au fumée de Gibier, ib.
Salmi de Canetons Sauvages aux truffes, ib.
Filets de Canetons Sauvages à la purée de Grouse, ib.
_Teal._
Turban de Filets de Sarcelles à la Modern, 380
Turban de Sarcelles à la Toulouse, ib.
Sarcelles an jus d’Orange (teal), ib.
à la Batelière, 381
macédoine de légumes, ib.
purée de champignons (mushrooms), ib.
_Woodcocks._
Filets de Bécasses à la Lucullus, 382
Talleyrand, ib.
Impérial, 383
Turban de Bécasses aux champignons, 383
Salmi de Bécasses (woodcocks), ib.
à la Joinville, ib.
Entrée de Bécasses à la Comtesse, 384
Bécasses à la Périgord, ib.
à l’essence, 385
à la Financière, ib.
purée, ib.
Snipes or Bécassines, ib.
_Plovers._
Plovers, ib.
Filets de Pluviers à la Marie Antoinette, ib.
aux truffes, 386
champignons (mushrooms), ib.
Filets de Pluviers à la Régence, ib.
Pâté chaud des Pluviers, 387
_Quails._
Quails, ib.
Cailles en macédoine de légumes aux feuilles de vignes (vine leaves), ib.
aux petits pois (peas), 388
Turban des Cailles à la Financière, ib.
aux concombres, ib.
à la purée de truffes, 389
Quails for Vol-au-vents, or Pâté chaud, ib.
_Pigeons._
Cotelettes des Pigeonneaux à la Parisienne (pigeons), ib.
à la Financière, ib.
aux pois verts, ib.
à la Suliman, 390
_Larks._
Turban of Larks à la Parisienne, ib.
aux fine herbes, 391
aux quenelles, ib.
Pâté chaud de Mauviettes (larks), ib.
gratinés, ib.
Vol-au-vent de Mauviettes, 392
OF THE ROASTS FOR SECOND COURSE.
Roast Turkey au cresson (watercress), 395
Turkey Barded, 396
Larded, ib.
Dindonneau truffé a la Périgord (turkey), ib.
farci, ib.
Roast Turkey à l’Anglaise, ib.
Turkey Poults, ib.
Chapon rôti au cresson (with watercress), 398
Poularde à la Demidoff, ib.
rôti à la Stäel, 399
Poulet rôti (roasted), ib.
Spring Chickens, ib.
à la Forrester, ib.
Geese, 400
Ducklings, 400
Canetons au vin de Madère, ib.
Bécasses à la Périgord, ib.
au jus d’orange, 401
d’échalote, ib.
Guinea Fowls, ib.
Pea Fowls, ib.
Pigeons, 402
Quails, ib.
Cailles à l’Eloise, ib.
Pheasants, 403
Faisans à la Galitzine, ib.
Grouse, 403
à la Bonny Lassie, ib.
Ptarmigans, 404
Ptarmigan à la Charles the Twelfth, ib.
Black Cocks and Gray Hens, 405
Partridges, ib.
Dun Birds, ib.
Wild Ducks and Pintails, ib.
à la Chasseur, 406
Widgeons, ib.
Teal, ib.
au jus d’orange, 407
Plovers, ib.
Of the Woodcock, ib.
Woodcocks à la Stäel, 408
fumée de Gibier, ib.
Piedmontaise, ib.
Larks, ib.
Snipes, 409
Hares, ib.
Leverets, ib.
Rabbits, ib.
SAVOURY DISHES FOR SECOND COURSE.
_The Boar’s Head_, 410
Of the Boar’s Head à l’Antique, 411
Ribs of Beef à la George the Fourth, 413
Bolingbroke, 415
froid a la Bohémienne, ib.
Filets de Bœuf farcis à la Dr. Johnson, 416
Cold Ox Tongues, 417
Tongue à la Lancret, 418
Printanière, ib.
Comédienne, ib.
Cold Ham, 419
Fillet of Veal à la Pontoise, ib.
Cardinale, 420
Loin of Veal au Jambon, ib.
Dame Blanche, 421
Galantine de Veau au Jambon, ib.
Pâté de Veau au Jambon, 422
Cotelettes de Veau à la St. Garat, 423
Princesse, 424
Ris de Veau à la Chinoise, ib.
Cotelettes de Mouton braisé aux navets, 425
Turban de Cotelettes de Mouton à la Fermière, ib.
Carbonade de Mouton, 425
Ballottins d’Agneau à la de Bazan, 426
à la Catalanaise, ib.
Cotelettes d’Agneau à la Gelée, 427
froid à la Princesse, ib.
Galantine de Dinde, ib.
aux foies gras, 428
à la Volière, ib.
Pâté de Dinde au blanc de Volaille, 429
Galantine de Poularde à la Persane, 430
Pâté de Volaille aux Truffes, 431
Poulardes à la Mazagran, ib.
Banquière, 432
Poulets Printaniers à la Santa Cruz (spring chickens), 433
à la Princesse Royale (ditto), ib.
Poularde à la Guillaume Tell (capon), ib.
Chaud froid de Poularde, 434
à la Pembroke, 435
en mayonnaise, ib.
Filets de Poulardes à la Nesselrode, ib.
Ravigote, 436
Petits Canetons en aspic (duckling), ib.
Salade de Volalile (fowl), 437
Salade de Filets de Poularde à la Brunow, ib.
Poulets Printaniers à la Masaniello (spring chickens), 438
Moule d’Aspic à la Royale (mould), ib.
Galantine de Faisan aux Truffes (pheasants), 439
Faisans à la Volière, ib.
Pâté de Faisans aux Truffes, ib.
Filets de Faisans à la Prince George, 440
Chaud froid de Filets de Faisans, ib.
Grouse, 441
Galantine de Grouse à la Montagnard ib.
Salade de Grouse à la Soyer, ib.
Perdreaux à la Downshire (partridges), 442
Galantine de Perdreaux à la Volière (partridges), 443
Pâté de Perdreaux (ditto), ib.
Bécasses à la d’Orléans (woodcocks), ib.
Pâté froid de Mauviettes (cold), 444
Salade de Homard à l’Indienne, 445
Mayonnaise de Homard à la gelée, ib.
Miroton de Homard à la Cardinale (lobster), ib.
Homard en Aspic (ditto), 446
Homard au gratin (ditto), ib.
Crabs, 447
Coquilles aux Huîtres (oysters), ib.
Salade de Filets de Soles, ib.
Filets de Soles aux Concombres, 448
Truites marinées en mayonnaise (trout), ib.
Darne de Saumon marinée (slice of salmon), ib.
Galantine d’Anguille (eels), 449
VEGETABLES FOR SECOND COURSE.
Asparagus, 450
Asperges en petits pois (ditto with peas), ib.
Sea-Kale, 451
Céleri à la Moëlle de Bœuf (marrow), ib.
Céleri à la Chetwynd, 452
Salsifis à la Poulette, ib.
Salsifis à la Moëlle de Bœuf (marrow), 453
Fried Salsifis, ib.
Concombres farcis en demi-glace, ib.
à la crème, 454
Croustade aux Concombres, ib.
Vegetable Marrow, ib.
Jerusalem Artichokes, 455
Cauliflowers and Brocoli, ib.
Choufleurs au Parmesan (cauliflowers), 456
Artichokes, ib.
à la Barigoule, 457
Artichauts à la Bordelaise, ib.
à l’Italienne, 458
au Velouté, ib.
à la Bruxellaise, 459
Peas, ib.
au sucre Anglo-Français, 460
à la Française, ib.
French Beans, 461
sautés au beurre (butter), ib.
aux fines herbes, ib
à la Poulette, ib.
Brussels Sprouts sautés au beurre, 462
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib
à la Crème en turban de Concombres, ib.
Spinach, 463
au jus, ib.
à la Française, ib.
au sucre (sugar), 464
Endive au jus, ib.
Sorrel, ib.
Laitues braisée à la Pensionnaire (lettuces), 465
farcis, ib.
Fèves de Marais (Windsor beans), 466
White Haricots (beans), ib.
Haricots blancs à la Brétonne, 467
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Tomates au gratin, ib.
à la Piémontaise, 468
Mushrooms plain broiled, ib.
farcis, ib.
Croute aux champignons, ib.
Young Carrots in their glaze, 469
Young Turnips in their glaze, ib.
Oignons Printaniers au Sirop dorée (spring onions), ib.
Macédoine de Légumes Printanière (spring vegetables), ib.
Pommes de Terre à la Maître d’Hôtel (potatoes), 470
sautées au beurre, ib.
à la Lyonnaise, ib.
Lentilles, 471
à la Comte au riz (rice), ib.
Truffles, 472
Truffes an vin de Champagne, ib.
Croute aux Truffes, 473
Truffes en croustade à l’Italienne, ib.
demi Piémontaise, ib.
à la Dino, 474
Omelette aux fines herbes, ib.
au Jambon (ham), ib.
Omelette aux Truffes, 475
aux Champignons (mushrooms), ib.
aux Olives, ib.
à la Jardinière, ib.
aux Huîtres (oysters), ib.
aux filets de Soles, 476
aux Moules (muscles), ib.
de Homard (lobster), ib.
au Sucre (sugar), ib.
au Confiture (preserve), ib.
au Rhum, 477
ENTREMETS.
Observations upon Pastry, 478
Of different sorts of Paste, ib.
Puff Paste, 479
with Beef Suet, 480
Half Puff Paste, ib.
Pâte à dresser, 481
fine or Pâte à foncer, ib.
d’Office or Confectioner’s Paste, 482
d’Amande (almond), ib.
Pastillage or Gum Paste, 483
Vol-au-vents, ib.
de Pêches (peaches), 484
d’Abricots, 485
of Greengages, ib.
de Cerises (cherries), ib.
de Poires (pears), ib.
de Pommes (apples), 486
d’Oranges, ib.
Gateau de Millefeuille à la Moderne (cake), ib.
Turban à la Crème aux Macarons amers, 487
Puit de Fruit aux Blanches Couronnes (well), ib.
Gateau de Pithiviers (cake), 488
Tourte d’Entremet à la Crème, 489
Marmelade de Pommes (apples), ib.
au Confiture (preserve), 490
Tartelettes pralinées aux Abricots, ib.
de Pèches (peaches), 491
aux Cerises (cherries), ib.
aux Groseilles vertes (green gooseberries), ib.
of Greengages, ib.
aux Fraises (strawberries), ib.
de Pommes (apples), 492
de Poires (pears), ib.
of Cranberries, ib.
d’Oranges, 493
Fauchonettes à la Vanille, ib.
Dauphines, 494
Tartelettes à la Pompadour, ib.
Mirlitons aux Fleurs d’Orange, ib.
aux Amandes, 495
au Citron, ib.
Petits Vol-au-vents à la Chantilly (small), ib.
aux Abricots, ib.
à la Gelée mousseuse, 496
Petits Puits aux Pistachios, ib.
Gateau fourré à la Crème, ib.
Gateau fourré au Confiture (preserve), 497
ou d’Artois, aux Pommes (apples), ib.
Anglo-Français, ib.
Petits au Confiture (small), 498
(round) Petits, ib.
Petits aux Amandes, 499
Petits Meringué, ib.
Pâtisserie d’Amandes à la Condé, ib.
Turban de Condé à la Rhubarbe, 500
Petits Gateaux d’Abricots, ib.
renversés, ib.
Petites Bouchées à la Pâtissière, 501
Eventail aux Cerises (cherries), ib.
Petits Gateaux à la Royale, ib.
A Flan of Puff Paste, 502
de Pommes à la Portugaise (apples), ib.
Poires (pears), 503
Flanc à la Crème pralinée, ib.
Pâté à Choux, 504
Petits Choux à la Crème, ib.
aux Amandes, ib.
à la Comtesse, 505
en Gimblettes, ib.
Petits Pains à la Crémière ib.
Madeline au vin de Porto, 506
Genoises, ib.
fourrées, ib.
à l’Orange, 507
aux Pistaches, ib.
Darioles, ib.
Biscatelles, 508
Gateaux à l’Indienne (cakes), ib.
Gouffres aux Pistaches, ib.
à l’Allemande, 509
à la Vanille, ib.
Flamande, ib.
Casalesry, 510
Red Nougat, ib.
Small Cups of Nougat, 511
Nougat d’Abricot (apricot), ib.
Châtaignes Croquantes (crisp chesnuts), 512
Amandes Croquantes, ib.
Meringues à la Cuillière, ib.
Turban de Meringues, 513
glacé (iced), 514
Petits Meringues aux Pistaches, ib.
Champignons en surprise, ib.
Biscuit manqué aux Amandes, 515
au Rhum, ib.
Calf’s Foot Jelly, 516
Gelée de Dantzic aux Fraises (strawberries), 518
Maresquin aux Pèches ib.
Noyeau aux Abricots, 519
Macédoine aux Fruits de belle saison, ib.
Bordure de Poires en gelée (pears), 520
Gelée au Rhum, ib.
Mousseuse à l’Eau de Vie, ib.
demie chaude froide marbrée, 521
fouettée aux Fruits, ib.
à l’Ananas, ib.
Orange Jelly, 522
in the skins of the oranges, ib.
Gelée de Fraises (strawberries), 523
d’Abricots, ib.
à la Bacchante, ib.
de Fleurs d’Orange au vin de Champagne, 524
Pain de Fruit à la Russe, ib.
Crème à la Vanilleib.
aux Pistaches, 525
à l’Ananas (pine-apples), 526
aux Amandes, ib.
d’Orange, ib.
aux Fraises (strawberries), 527
d’Abricots, ib.
au Ponche (punch), ib.
au Maresquin, 528
Noyeau, ib.
Café, ib.
Caramel, ib.
Bavaroise aux Fraises (strawberries), 529
Framboises (raspberries), ib.
Abricots, ib.
Poires, 530
Pommes (apples), ib.
Pistaches, ib.
à l’Ananas (pine-apples), 531
Marasquin, ib.
Ponche (punch), ib.
Charlotte Russe, 532
Prussienne, ib.
Russe en mosaïque, ib.
Russe aux liqueurs, 533
aux Fraises (strawberries), ib.
Gâteaux aux Fruits de belle saison, ib.
Charlotte de Pommes an Beurre, 534
à la Confiture (preserves), 535
Chartreuse de Pommes (apples), ib.
Suédoise de Pommes (do.), 536
Pain de Pommes à la Russe, ib.
Croquettes de Pommes, ib.
Pommes au Riz, 537
Poires au Riz (pears), ib.
Abricots au Riz, 538
Pommes au Riz en Timbale (apples), ib.
à la Trianon, ib.
Pommes Meringuées, 539
à la Vestale, ib.
au Beurre (butter), 540
Miroton de Pommes, ib.
Beignets de Pommes, 541
d’Oranges, ib.
de Pêches (peaches), 542
d’Abricots, ib.
Croquettes de Riz (rice), ib.
Crème au Riz, 543
Macaroni, ib.
Vermicelle, ib.
Crème Frite à la Pâtissière, ib.
Beignets Soufflés à la Vanille, 544
Frangipane, ib.
Omelettes à la Célestine, 545
Pannequete à la Confiture (préserve), ib.
REMOVES. SECOND COURSE.
Gâteau Britannique à l’Amiral, 548
Hure de Sanglier glacé en surprise (boar’s head), 549
Cygne glacé en surprise (swan), 550
Jambon glacé en surprise (ham), 551
Gigot de mouton bouilli glacé en surprise (leg of mutton), 552
Selle de Mouton a la Jardinière en surprise (saddle), 553
Côtelettes de Mouton glacé en surprise, ib.
Haunch of Lamb glacé en surprise, 554
Shoulder of Lamb glacé en surprise, ib.
Côtelettes d’Agneau à la Réforme en surprise aux Champignons (mushrooms), 555
Chapon en surprise glacé aux Fruits, ib.
Petits Poussins en surprise à la Sutherland, 556
Dindonneau en surprise à la Gondolière (turkey), 557
Peacock à la Louis Quatorze, 558
Faisans en surprise glacé an Chocolat, ib.
Maniveau de Champignons glacé en surprise, 559
Turban de Condé glacé à l’Ananas, 560
Bombe demi glace à la Mogador, ib.
Cérito’s Sultane Sylphe à la Fille de l’Orange, 561
Gâteau glacé à l’Eloise (cake), ib.
Biscuit Mousseux glacé, en caisses (in, cases), ib.
Soufflé glacé an Curaçoa, 563
Pouding Soufflé glacé à la Méphistopheles, ib.
Brioche, 564
Baba, 565
Brioche au Fromage, 566
frite nu vin de Madère, ib.
Nougat aux Fraises (strawberries), 567
Croque en bouche, 568
Meringue Pagodatique à la Chinoise, 569
à la Parisienne, 571
Nesselrode Pudding, ib.
Pouding de Cabinet glacé, 572
Glace Meringue au four, ib.
Plombière, 573
Plombières Mousseuses à l’Orange, ib.
Gâteaux de Fruit à la Gelée d’Orange mousseuse (frothed), 574
Gateau Soufflé à l’Essence de Ponche, ib.
_Of large Souffles for Removes._
Soufflé à la Vanille, 575
Fleur d’Orange (orange-flower), 576
au Café vierge (green coffee), ib.
à ta Crème de Riz (ground rice), ib.
au Citron, ib.
Soufflé au Macaroni, 576
Tapioca, 577
Rhum, ib.
Omelette Soufflée, 578
Omelette Soufflée à l’Antiquaire, 578
à la Crème, 578
Soufflé au Gingembre (ginger), ib.
Cerises (cherries), ib.
jus d’Orange et au Zeste praliné (burnt orange-peel), ib.
Biscuits Soufflés à la Crème, 580
Fondue au Parmesan et Gruyère, ib.
à la Napolitaine, 581
Petites au Pâte d’Italie, ib.
(simple method), ib.
Petites (en caisses) au Stilton (in cases), 582
Ramequins, ib.
Petits Ramequins au feuilletage, ib.
Diablotins au Gruyère, 583
Croquettes de Macaroni au Fromage, ib.
APPENDIX.
Aspic, 585
Mayonnaise à la gelée, 587
aux fines herbes, ib.
en Ravigote verte, ib.
ordinaire, 588
à la Provençale, 589
Montpelier Butter, ib.
Forcemeat for raised pies, ib.
of Liver for game pies, 590
Sponge cake, ib.
Savoy Cake in mould, 591
Biscuits, 592
To clarify Isinglass, 592
Glace Royale or Iceing, 593
Chocolate Iceing, ib.
Sugar in grains, 593
To colour Sugar in grains, ib.
Vanilla Sugar, 594
Lemon Sugar, ib.
To clarify and boil Sugar, ib.
Sucre filé (sugar threads), 596
Ice Cream Vanilla, 597
Coffee, 598
Chocolate, ib.
Pineapple, ib.
Lemon, 599
Orange, ib.
Apricot, ib.
Strawberry, 600
Marmalade Apple, ib.
Apricot, 601
Quince, ib.
Apricot (transparent), ib.
Cherry, 602
Strawberry, ib.
Raspberry, ib.
Jelly Apple, 603
Quince, ib.
Currant and Raspberry, ib.
Currant, 604
To preserve Tomatas, ib.
Table of the Wealthy.
Service Pagodatique, 606
Bill of fare (diner pour dix personnes), 607
Diner Lucullusian à la Sampayo, 608
Bill of fare (Reform Club), 609
Dialogue Culinaire between Lord M---- H---- and A. Soyer, 611
Description of Kitchen of the Reform Club,
with sectional and ground plan, and numerous apparatus, 613
END OF CONTENTS TO THE KITCHEN OF THE WEALTHY.
MY KITCHEN AT HOME.
PAGE
My Table at Home.
Prefatory Address, 631
Reference to Plan of My Kitchen at Home, 632
Plan of My Kitchen at Home, 633
Reference to Plans of Bachelor’s and Cottage Kitchens, 634
Plan of the Bachelor’s Kitchen, 635
Cottage Kitchen, ib.
Bill of Fare for Eight Persons, 636
PLAIN JOINTS.
Of the Choosing and Roasting of Plain Joints, 637
Sirloin of Beef, 639
Ribs of Beef, 640
Rump of Beef, ib.
Baron of Beef, 641
Round of Beef, ib.
Aitch-bone of Beef, 643
Brisket of Beef, ib.
à la Garrick, ib.
Haunch of Mutton, ib.
Soyer’s Saddle-back of Mutton, 644
Saddle of Mutton, 645
Leg of Mutton, ib.
Shoulder of Mutton, ib.
Loin of Mutton, ib.
Neck of Mutton, ib.
Boiled Leg of Mutton, ib.
Shoulder of Mutton, 646
Saddle-back of Welsh Mutton, ib.
Haunch do., ib.
Saddle do., ib.
Leg do., ib.
Loin do., ib.
Neck do., ib.
Shoulder do., ib.
Lamb, ib.
Fillet of Veal, 647
Loin of Veal, ib.
Breast of Veal, ib.
Shoulder of Veal, 648
Neck of Veal, ib.
Knuckle of Veal, ib.
Leg of Pork, ib.
Salt Pork, ib.
MADE DISHES.
French Pot-au-feu, 649
SOUPS.
Julienne Soup, 652
Mutton Broth, 653
Irish Mutton Broth, ib.
A very simple receipt for the Scotch Cock-a-leeky, ib.
Ox-tail Soup, 653
Ox-cheek Soup, 654
New Mock Turtle Soup, ib.
Brown Mock Turtle Soup, ib.
Mulligatawny Soup, 655
Giblet Soup, ib.
Green Pea Soup, ib.
Winter Pea Soup, ib.
Purée of Vegetable Soup, 656
Maigre Soup, ib.
Onion Soup Maigre, ib.
Vermicelli Soup, ib.
Macaroni Soup, ib.
FISH.
Turbot, 656
Turbot, the new French fashion, 657
à la Crême, ib.
John Dorée, Boulogne fashion, ib.
Salmon, Plain Boiled, ib.
Sauce Matelote, ib.
Cod Fish, Plain Boiled, ib.
sauced over with Oyster Sauce, ib.
Haddocks, 658
Baked Haddocks, ib.
Soles, Fried, ib.
the Jewish fashion, ib.
Sole à la Meunière, ib.
aux Fines Herbes, ib.
Fried Whiting, ib.
Whiting au Gratin, ib.
Red Mullets, 659
Mackarel, ib.
à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
Gurnets, ib.
Boiled Gurnet, ib.
Herrings boiled with Cream Sauce, ib.
Skate, ib.
Flounders, 660
FRESH-WATER FISH.
Pike, 660
Sauce Matelote, ib.
Stewed Carp, ib.
Carp, Sauce Matelote, ib.
Truite à la Twickenham, 661
Burton, ib.
Tench, Sauce Matelote, ib.
with Anchovy Butter, ib.
Perch fried in Butter, ib.
Hampton Court fashion, ib.
Eels, Fried, 662
Stewed Eels, Sauce Matelote, ib.
Gudgeons, ib.
Escaloped Oysters, ib.
Stewed Oysters, ib.
Gratin of Lobsters, ib.
SIMPLE HORS-D’ŒUVRES.
Rissoles of Oysters, 663
Lamb, ib.
Rocambole, or Croquettes of Meat, Game, or Poultry, ib.
Lamb’s Fry, ib.
REMOVES SIMPLIFIED.
Stewed Rump of Beef, ib.
with Onions, 664
Stewed Rump Steak with Oyster Sauce, ib.
Ribs of Beef à l’Hôtellère, ib.
Beef à la Mode, ib.
Another method, 665
Ox Tongue, ib.
Loin of Veal with Stewed Celery, ib.
White Sauce, ib.
Dress Fillet of Veal for Remove, 666
Breasts and Necks of Veal, ib.
Half Calf’s Head with White Sauce, ib.
in Currie, ib.
à la Vinaigrette, 667
broiled, Sauce Piquante, ib.
Large Veal Pie, ib.
Saddle of Mutton à la Bretonne, ib.
Leg of Mutton Basted with Devil’s Tears, ib.
the Housewife’s Method, ib.
Shoulder of Mutton, Savoyard’s Method, 668
à la Polonaise, ib.
Provençale fashion, ib.
Saddle of Lamb, Berlin fashion, ib.
Leg or Shoulder of Lamb with Peas, ib.
with French Beans, ib.
Boiled Leg of Lamb with Spinach, 669
Neck of Lamb à la Jardinière, ib.
Lamb’s Head Broiled, with Mince Sauce or Sauce Piquante, ib.
Loin or Neck of Pork à la Bourguinotte, 670
Normandy fashion, ib.
Pig’s Cheek, a New Method, ib.
Sucking Pig, ib.
Roast Turkey, 670
Braised Turkey, ib.
Capons or Poulardes, 671
Fowls with Mushroom Sauce, ib.
Spring Vegetables, ib.
Braised Fricassee Sauce, ib.
Roast Goose, ib.
Ducks, 672
à l’Aubergiste (or Tavern-keeper’s fashion), ib.
Simplified Entrées, ib.
SAUCES.
Melted Butter, 673
New and Economical Lobster Sauce, ib.
Lobster Sauce à la Crême, ib.
simplified, 674
Shrimp Sauce, ib.
Anchovy Sauce, ib.
Oyster Sauce, ib.
another way, ib.
Caper Sauce, 674
To chop Onions, Herbs, &c., ib.
To make a Colouring or Browning from Sugar, 675
ECONOMICAL MADE DISHES.
Fillet of Beef, ib.
A new Steak, 676
Fillet or Steak à la Maître d’Hôtel, ib.
A new Mutton or Lamb Chop, ib.
Veal Cutlets, 677
Pork Chops, ib.
Pork or Veal Chops Fried, ib.
Hashed Beef, 678
Remains of Salt Beef, ib.
Ox Tails en Currie, ib.
Ragout of Ox Tails, 679
Ox Cheeks, ib.
Kidneys, ib.
Calf’s Head, 680
Brains and Tongue, ib.
Veal Cutlets, the English Method, ib.
Sweetbreads, 681
Calf’s Liver Stewed, French fashion, ib.
Fried, ib.
Minced Veal and Poached Eggs, 683
Mutton Cutlets sautés, 683
sautés with Vegetables, ib.
Irish Method, ib.
Broiled, ib.
Harricoed, 684
Ragout of Mutton en currie, ib.
Mutton Currie, ib.
Pork Cutlets sautés, ib.
aux Cornichons, 685
Sauce demi Robert, ib.
Hashed Pork, ib.
Pig’s Liver, ib.
Pig’s Kidneys, 686
Black Puddings, ib.
Excellent Sausage Cakes, 687
Pig’s Feet, ib.
MADE DISHES FROM POULTRY.
Blanquettes of Turkey, ib.
Boudins of Turkey, 688
Turban of Croquettes, ib.
Minced and Grilled Turkey, ib.
Devilled Turkey, ib.
Goose Hashed, ib.
Stewed Duck and Peas, ib.
Duckling with Turnips, 689
Fricassee of Fowl or Chicken, ib.
with Mushroom, ib.
Currie of Fowl, Oriental fashion, ib.
Broiled Fowl, ib.
Fowl Sauted in Oil, 690
Fricassee of Rabbits, ib.
Gibelotte of Rabbits, ib.
Currie of Rabbit, ib.
Rabbit Pies, 691
Pigeon Pies, ib.
Pigeons in Compote, ib.
Stewed Pigeon with Peas, ib.
GAME.
Pheasants, Partridges, Grouse, Black Game, Woodcocks, etc., 691
Small Pheasants, the Miller’s Fashion, 692
Pheasant with Cabbage, ib.
Hashed Pheasant, ib.
A plain Salmi of Pheasants, ib.
Grouse, Scotch Fashion, ib.
Partridges à la Jardinière, 693
Partridges with Cabbage, ib.
Partridges Sauted with Mushrooms, ib.
Woodcocks, Downshire Fashion, ib.
à la Chasseur, ib.
Hashed Woodcocks, ib.
Snipes à la Minute, 694
Plovers with English Raw Truffles, ib.
Wild Duck, ib.
Hashed Wild Duck, ib.
Widgeons, ib.
Teal, a New Method, ib.
Teal à la Sans Façon, 695
Larks à la Minute, ib.
Lark Pie, ib.
Jugged Hare, ib.
Another and more simple Method, ib.
MEAT PIES AND PUDDINGS.
Rump Steak Pie, ib.
Mutton Pie, 696
Lamb Pie, ib.
Beef Steak Pudding, ib.
SECOND COURSE, KITCHEN AT HOME.
Salad of Cold Meat, 698
Lobster Salad, ib.
Fish Salads, 699
Potato Salad, ib.
Plain Salad à la Française, ib.
Jelly of various kinds of Fruit, 700
Orange Jelly, ib.
Whipped Orange Jelly, 701
Lemon Jelly, 701
Currant and Raspberry Jelly, ib.
Strawberry Jelly, ib.
JELLIES OF LIQUEURS AND SPIRITS.
Maresquino Jelly, ib.
Syrup of Almond, Iced à la Varsovienne, a substitute for Blancmange, 702
Pineapple Cream, ib.
Prussian Cream, ib.
BOHEMIAN JELLY CREAMS.
Strawberry, ib.
Apricot Bohemian Cream, ib.
French Custard Cream, 703
Coffee Custard Cream, ib.
Coffee Custard Cream, White, ib.
Chocolate Custard Cream, ib.
Almond Custard Cream, 704
Cabinet Pudding, ib.
Bread Pudding, ib.
Ground Rice Pudding, ib.
Rice Pudding, 705
Macaroni Pudding, ib.
Gateau of Rice, ib.
Fruit Puddings, ib.
Pastry, 706
Short Paste for Fruit Tarts, ib.
Apricot Tarts, ib.
Greengage Tart, 707
Apple Tart, ib.
French Fruit Tart, ib.
Plain Soufflé Puddings, 708
Soufflé Rice Pudding, ib.
Fruits Meringued, ib.
Snow Eggs, 709
Plum Pudding, ib.
Currant Pudding, ib.
Sweet Macaroons, 710
Bitter Macaroons, or Ratafias, ib.
Mince Meat, ib.
Mince Pies, ib.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Description of the Composition of this Work, xi
Soyer’s New Mode of Carving, xiv
Directions for Carving, xv
Soyer’s Tendon Separator, xxi
Directions for Larding, xxv
Meat, Poultry, &c., xxvi
Fish, xxii
Vegetables and Fruit, ib.
How everything should be in Cooking, xxx
Braised Roasted Turkey, Capon, or Fowl, xxvi
Amateur’s Receipts, ib.
Bouquet de Gibier, or Sporting Nosegay, xxxii
Number of Stewpans and other Kitchen Utensils required, &c., xxxiv
Economical Mode of Making Coffee, 711
Monster Bill of Fare, 712
New Pagodatique Entrée Dish, 713
The Celestial and Terrestrial Cream of Great Britain, 719
* * * * *
SOYER’S SAUCE.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE.
_For any kind of Cold Meat, Game, and Poultry._--Use it in moderation,
as it is.
_For Mutton, Lamb, Pork, and Steaks._--When properly broiled and
seasoned, pour one tablespoonful or more, according to the quantity of
meat, which you turn over in the dish with a fork several times, then
you will have a most exquisite gravy.
_Plain way for Hot Made-dishes._--In any sort of Hash it is a very great
improvement.--For Made-dishes or Entrées, put four tablespoonfuls of
Brown Sauce, six of Broth, and, when quite hot, add four tablespoonfuls
of Soyer’s Sauce; just boil it, and pour over your Entrées.
_For General Purposes._--Put eight tablespoonfuls of water into a
stewpan; when boiling, add four ditto of the Sauce, half an ounce of
fresh butter, mixed with a quarter of an ounce of flour; stir quick on
the fire; add, if required, a little salt; boil one minute, and pour
over your dish of meat, game, or poultry.
SOYER’S SAUCES, one for Ladies and one for Gentlemen.
PRINCIPAL AGENT--MESSRS. CROSS & BLACKWELL, SOHO SQUARE; AND
MANUFACTURED AT 33, FRITH STREET, SOHO.
LIST OF M. SOYER’S CULINARY PRODUCTIONS.
DÉLASSEMENTS CULINAIRES: containing La Fille de l’Orage--Le Rêve
d’un Gourmet--Le Plat Pagodatique--and La Crême de la Grande
Bretagne. Published by JEFFS, Burlington Arcade. Price 3_s._
THE CREAM OF GREAT BRITAIN, in French and English. Published by
JEFFSs Price 1_s._ 6_d._
KITCHEN PLAN OF THE REFORM CLUB. Lithographed. Price 10_s._
SOYER’S CHARITABLE COOKERY; or the Poor Man’s Regenerator. Price
6_d._
Captain White’s Curry Paste and Powders.
Having used the above for a considerable time, I am quite satisfied that
in the preparation of various dishes of Curry, none can be employed with
better advantage, and of finer flavour. The several ingredients are so
well proportioned, that Capt. White’s Curry Paste and Powder possess a
delicacy of taste not always to be met with in India.--A. S.
SOLD AT 33, FRITH STREET, SOHO SQUARE.
[Illustration]
* * * * *
MADAME SOYER.
INTRODUCTION TO HER PORTRAIT, AND BIOGRAPHY.
A general, indeed almost universal, interest has been evinced for the
loss of the late Madame Soyer, by reason of her celebrity as an artist,
whose close adherence to nature procured for her in France (from her
pictures which were exhibited in the Louvre in Paris) the famed name of
the English Murillo. Her paintings evinced a great partiality for the
same subject, and a like boldness of effect and sentiment were
introduced in all her compositions, though never having copied or tried
to imitate this celebrated master.[30] The amiable character of a life
but too short, induces me to give an engraving from a portrait of
herself, the finished touches of which were put upon the canvas but a
few days previous to her lamented decease; her career was one, while it
lasted, of great success, and must, had it not been so fatally brought
to a close, have resulted in the highest fame; as it was, crowned heads
of many nations paid homage at the shrine of her talents, and the
cultivated sensibility of the aristocracy of this and other civilized
nations has at once appreciated her artistic excellences by the
spontaneous expression of admiration upon the examination of her works.
I feel, and am proud in the possession of such an emotion, most
strongly--I trust not too much so,--upon this sensitive point. Such
reasons, together with the fact that Madame Soyer being an English
woman, are amongst my motives for giving here a short biography of her
private and industrious life, which, although it appeared in nearly
every journal of interest at the period of her unexpected death, will
yet, I am assured, possess claims upon the sympathy of her countrymen
and women.
In the fullness of my own individual regard for her memory and of her
rare gifts, and with a view to perpetuate a memorial of her
extraordinary genius, I have for some while been adding to my
collection, and at any expense, all those of her paintings which may
come within my reach.
The last purchase I made was No. 43 in the catalogue, a Buy-a-Broom Girl
and Boy, from the celebrated Saltmarsh collection; this, and many of her
other works are to be met with in the galleries of men of the greatest
taste and judgment.
BIOGRAPHY.
“AUGUST 29. Died in London, in her 29th year, Emma, the wife of M.
Soyer, of the Reform Club House, Pall Mall.
“Madame Soyer (formerly Emma Jones) was born in London in 1813. Her
father died when she was only four years of age, and left her to the
care of a fond mother, who sacrificed the prospect of an increasing
fortune to devote her time entirely to the education of her child, who
showed great inclination for study. The usual instructions were received
with success, the French and Italian languages soon acquired, and music
became a favorite amusement; in fact, it appeared that whatever was
undertaken was of easy accomplishment.
“About the year 1817, M. Simonau, a Flemish artist, pupil of the
celebrated Baron Gros, visited London, and brought with him some of his
works, which were purchased by an antiquary, who advised him to open an
academy for drawing and painting, which he did, and in a short time
gained great celebrity. Mrs. Jones having heard of the fame of M.
Simonau, went to him with her little girl, and wished him to give her
lessons; the extreme youth of the child at first made him hesitate, but
at length he consented, and when Emma had been with him about six
months, she showed such decided talent, that her mother proposed to
remunerate him for the loss of all his other pupils if he would give his
whole time to her daughter’s instruction; to this, after some
consideration, he agreed, and every succeeding year her improvement was
so great, that before the age of twelve she had drawn more than a
hundred portraits from life with surprising fidelity.
“During the same time she advanced wonderfully in music, under the
eminent pianist, Ancot, who, at that time, was patronized by her Royal
Highness the Duchess of Kent, and was a great friend of Rossini and
Weber--the last of these heard little Emma play a passage of his ‘Der
Freischutz’ with so much execution, that he declared, in the most
flattering terms, that she would become a brilliant star in the musical
world. M. Ancot strongly recommended that she should adopt music as a
profession; and, as her mother feared that drawing would injure her
health, his opinion was for some time adopted. Through the following
circumstances, however, painting was finally chosen instead of music.
Mrs. Jones (who, in 1820, had become the wife of M. Simonau) having gone
to the continent for her health, young Emma one day looking out of a
window at Dunkirk, saw some children blowing bubbles, and immediately,
with a piece of charcoal, made a sketch of the group upon the wall: the
execution of this rude drawing evinced so much power, that it was at
once finally decided by her mother and M. Simonau to adhere to the
original intention of making painting her principal study, and that
music should only be cultivated as an accomplishment. A few years after
a picture from this sketch was sold at Liverpool for sixty pounds.
“At an early age many original paintings and portraits bore ample
testimony to the perseverance of the mother, the care of the master, and
the genius of the young artist.
“In 1836, Miss Emma Jones was married to M. Soyer at St. George’s
church, Hanover square.
“In 1839, the poor mother died, happy that her daughter had attained
eminence by her talents, and enjoyed prosperity with the husband of her
choice. But, alas! the happiness of nearly six years was destroyed in a
few hours; Madame Soyer was taken in premature labour, and died on the
same day, regretted by all who knew her. She was of a most amiable and
cheerful disposition, a kind friend, excellent and affectionate wife,
too modest to set much value upon her works, leaving the palette to
attend to her household duties.
“The acuteness of her husband’s feelings was painfully increased by his
unfortunate absence, being at Brussels at the time with the suite of the
Duke of Saxe Cobourg-Gotha, who had seen M. Soyer in his culinary
department at the Reform Club, and having greatly admired several of
Madame Soyer’s pictures, did her the honour to subscribe for a print
from her picture of the ‘Young Israelites,’ which has since been
dedicated, by permission, to his Serene Highness.”[31]
“The death of this lady has been a source of great regret to all the
lovers and encouragers of art. Cut off at a moment when her reputation
was about to make her fortune, and when, in spite of all obstacles, her
merits were become known to her countrymen, it is a sad reflection that
she can no longer enjoy the encomiums she so justly deserves, nor share
in those rewards which were about to be conferred on her. Besides an
immense variety of drawings, sketches, and studies, she had painted
upwards of 400 pictures, some of them of very high merit, and some of
them which, when exhibited in the Louvre, obtained the highest meed of
praise. No female artist has exceeded this lady as a colorist, and very
few artists of the rougher sex have produced portraits so full of
character, spirit, and vigour, and that boldness and breadth of light
and shadow which constitutes one of the highest triumphs of art. She was
exceedingly clever in recognizing the character of those who sat to her,
so that her portraits convey the mind as well as the features of the
sitters, their thoughts and sentiments. Her group, already mentioned,
depicting Two Boys selling Lemons, has been recently engraved by Gerard
of Paris, in mezzotint, and is a fine illustration of the talents of the
deceased. It partakes of the style of Murillo; but, though in his
manner, it has not the subserviency of imitation, nor the stiffness of
copy. There are a few of Madame Soyer’s paintings at the Reform
Club-house, which will well repay a visit from those who have a taste
for genuine merit and real nature.”--_Times._
The three following letters are selected from a numerous correspondence,
as exhibiting at once sympathy for her loss, and admiration for her
talents.
“Gotha, le 4 Janvier, 1843.
A MONSIEUR ALEXIS SOYER.
“MONSIEUR,
“Je vous suis très obligé du dessin original fait du feue Madame
votre épouse, ainsi que des gravures d’après le tableau des jeunes
Israelites, que vous avez bien voulu m’envoyer.
“C’est avec beaucoup d’intérêt que j’adjoindrai à ma collection de
dessins les produits d’un talent aussi distingué que celui de feue
Madame Soyer.
“En vous disant mes remercîmens et en souhaitant que le temps
adoucit votre grande et juste douleur sur sa perte prématurée, je
vous assure encore de toute mon estime.
“ERNEST DUC DE SAXE-GOTHA.”
“Cambridge House, le 21 Mai, 1846.
“MONSIEUR,
“Je suis chargé de la part de S. A. R. Monseigneur le Duc de
Cambridge de vous remercier pour l’envoi des trois tableaux, peints
par feue Madame votre épouse, qui ont été dûment admirés et
appréciés, non seulement par S. A. R., le Duc, mais aussi par
Madame la Duchesse, ainsi que par ceux à qu’il a été donné de les
voir.
“J’ai l’honneur d’être, Monsieur,
“Votre très humble et obéissant serviteur,
“LE BARON DE KNESEBECK.”
“Stafford House, Vendredi.
“La Duchesse de Sutherland présente ses compliments à M. Soyer, et
accepte avec plaisir la dédicace de la gravure[32] d’après le
tableau peint par feue Madame Soyer.
“Elle a appris avec bien du regret la perte immense qu’il a faite.”
MEMORIAL TO THE LATE MADAME SOYER, THE CELEBRATED ARTIST.
“The inauguration of a splendid monument, erected to the memory of
Madame Soyer, whose name is so intimately connected with the genius of
art, took place on Sunday, before a numerous and distinguished party, at
Kensal Green Cemetery. The design, which is quite new, is by M. Soyer,
her husband, and reflects the greatest credit upon that gentleman, who
is so well known from his position at the Reform Club. It consists of a
pedestal, about twelve feet in height, surmounted by a colossal figure
of Faith, with her right hand pointing towards heaven, and the left
supporting a golden cross. At her feet, lightly floating upon clouds,
are two cherubims, the one holding a crown over the head, and the other
presenting a palm to a beautiful medallion of the deceased; the latter
executed in white marble, and surrounded by the emblem of eternity. A
palette and brushes, embellished with a wreath of unfading laurels, is
gracefully placed beneath the medallion. M. Puyenbroaek, of Brussels,
one of the principal sculptors to his Majesty the King of the Belgians,
has added to his fame by this new example of his talent. Although the
figures of the monument are larger than life, so light and elegant is
their construction, that the observer might almost fancy they were
leaving this terrestrial sphere, while the cherubims, poised upon the
ascending clouds, convey such an idea of buoyancy, that one is led to
believe that the heavy and solid stone (like the pure and eternal spirit
of her who sleeps below) had taken its departure from earth, and was
following that shade whose memory it was erected to perpetuate. We are
informed that the palette and brushes, with the laurel and her initials,
were sketched by the lamented artist the morning previous to her death,
she being then in perfect health; while the medallion is from her
portrait by M. Simonau, her father-in-law, and only master.
“Amongst the parties present at the inauguration we perceived the fair
Cerito, bestowing upon the shrine of her sister artist a wreath
_funéraire_, made from a crown placed upon her head in La Scala, at
Milan, before several thousands of her country people. Such feeling
impressed all with the highest respect for that fairy child of
Terpsichore, and deserves a distinguished place in the history of art.
The wreath, together with the palette of the artist, will be placed in a
glass case, and fixed at the back of the pedestal. The inscription upon
the pedestal will be simply the words ‘To Her,’ without any addition
whatever.”--_Morning Post_, 1844.
EXTRACTS FROM THE PRESS.
“L’Angleterre sera vengée par une femme de l’échec dont Messieurs Foggo
sont tombés les victimes. Madame Soyer de Londres nous a envoyé deux
morceaux exquis; si nous pouvions disposer d’une couronne au plus digne,
c’est assurément à elle que nous rendrions cet hommage; ne pouvant pas
présenter de lauriers, donnons lui la première place dans nos colonnes:
pour la correction du dessin, la vigueur, le modèle et la pureté du
coloris, ce sont là les qualités qui seraient enviées par les plus
habiles de nos maîtres. Mais ce que nous admirons par-dessus tout, dans
son sens le plus vrai, est la touche delicate, la douceur du coloris,
toujours plein de souplesse et de naïveté.”--_La Revue des Deux Mondes._
“_Une Glaneuse_, par Madame Soyer, de Londres, a passé inaperçu. Les
critiques et le public se sont bien gardés d’en parler, parce que ce
tableau, quoique renfermant de très grandes qualités, ne plaît pas au
premier abord. Nous ne connaissons point Madame Soyer; nous ne pourrions
même dire si ce nom est un pseudonyme, ou s’il est véritablement celui
de cette artiste. Ce qu’il y a de singulier, c’est que jamais aucune
femme n’a peint avec autant de verve, de chaleur et d’entrain. Madame
Soyer (en supposant toujours que Madame Soyer soit une femme) est aux
autres peintres ce que Madame George Sand est aux littérateurs. Nous
verrons plus tard si cette femme-peintre se soutiendra, et si ses
productions prochaines vaudront celles de cette année.”--_La Capitole,_
“The appearance of a very beautiful engraving of the picture of ‘The Jew
Lemon-sellers’ reminds us of the loss which art has sustained in the
death of Madame Soyer. This gifted lady, better known, perhaps, as Miss
Emma Jones, has been snatched away in the midst of a career, the opening
success of which fully justified the most flattering anticipations of
her numerous friends. Some of Madame Soyer’s pictures exhibited here
were the subjects of very general admiration, and such of our readers as
visited the last exhibition at Paris (where Madame Soyer was even more
popular than in England) will recall with pleasure her picture, in the
style of Murillo, of ‘The Two Israelites,’ which received so much praise
from the French critics. The devotion of Madame Soyer to the art which
she so much adorned by her talents is illustrated as much in the number
as in the excellence of her works, which form the basis of a lasting and
honorable fame. Although but twenty-nine years of age when she died, she
had already painted no less than 403 pictures. Many of them are in the
possession of the most distinguished collectors in this
country.”--_Morning Chronicle._
KITCHEN OF THE REFORM CLUB.
“We copy the following, by the Vicountess de Malleville, from the last
number of the _Courrier de l’Europe_. Without subscribing to the justice
of all the writer’s remarks, we think, as the opinion of an intelligent
foreigner, that the article will be read with some interest.
“‘We now quit the upper regions and follow the secretary of the club,
and the politest and most obliging cicerone in the world. Theatrically
speaking, we have as yet only seen the stage and its sumptuous
decorations from the boxes and pit; we now go behind the scenes, among
the scene-shifters and the machinists. But unlike in a theatre, we see
no naked walls behind the scenes--no tattered draperies--no floors
strewed with sawdust. This fine apartment is the kitchen--spacious as a
ball-room, kept in the finest order, and white as a young bride.
All-powerful steam, the noise of which salutes your ear as you enter,
here performs a variety of offices: it diffuses a uniform heat to large
rows of dishes, warms the metal plates, upon which are disposed the
dishes that have been called for, and that are in waiting to be sent
above; it turns the spits, draws the water, carries up the coal, and
moves the plate like an intelligent and indefatigable servant. Stay
awhile before this octagonal apparatus, which occupies the centre of the
place. Around you the water boils and the stewpans bubble, and a little
further on is a moveable furnace, before which pieces of meat are
converted into savoury _rôtis_--here are sauces and gravies, stews,
broths, soups, &c.; in the distance are Dutch ovens, marble mortars,
lighted stoves, iced plates of metal for fish, and various compartments
for vegetables, fruits, roots, and spices. After this inadequate, though
prodigious nomenclature, the reader may perhaps picture to himself a
state of general confusion, a disordered assemblage, resembling that of
a heap of oyster-shells. If so, he is mistaken. For, in fact, you see
very little, or scarcely anything, of all the objects above described;
the order of their arrangement is so perfect, their distribution as a
whole, and in their relative bearings to one another, all are so
intelligently considered, that you require the aid of a guide to direct
you in exploring them, and a good deal of time to classify in your mind
all your discoveries.
“‘The man who devised the plan of this magnificent kitchen, over which
he rules and governs without question or dispute, the _artiste_ who
directs by his gestures his subalterns tricked out in white, and whose
eye takes in at a glance the most difficult combinations in the culinary
art--in a word, the _chef_ by whom every _gourmet_ admitted within the
precincts of the Reform Club swears, is M. Soyer, of whom it may justly
be said that he is not more distinguished as a professor of the science
of the Vatels and Caremes, than as a well-behaved and modest man. Allow
him, therefore, to give you the history of his discoveries and
improvements; let him conduct you into the smallest recesses of his
establishment, the cleanliness of which would shame many a drawing-room;
and listen to him, also, as he informs you that those precious pictures
which crowd his own parlour are from the pencil of a wife who has
recently been taken from him by a premature death. Of this you might
almost doubt till he again affirms it, for, judging from the poetry of
the composition, and the vigour of the colouring and the design, you
might swear that these pictures were the work of Murillo when he was
young.
“‘Let all strangers who come to London for business, or pleasure, or
curiosity, or for whatever cause, not fail to visit the Reform Club. In
an age of utilitarianism, and of the search for the comfortable, like
ours, there is more to be learned here than in the ruins of the
Coliseum, of the Parthenon, or of Memphis.’”--_Chambers’s Journal._
“_Workhouse Cookery._--The disclosures in the Andover Union have thrown
quite a new light on the science of cookery, which not even the
inspiration of a Soyer could have hit upon. That ingenious _chef de
cuisine_ has blended together pastry and politics; with considerable
skill he has invented a Crême d’Angleterre, consisting of charms
borrowed from the female aristocracy; but those ingredients, imaginary
and unsubstantial as they are, must be considered as solids when
compared with the materials used for constituting the dishes served up
to the paupers in the Andover Union. Butter, according to the new poor
law cookery, is made from the skimmings of grease pots, and parochial
tea is made from boiling old leaves which have already had their
strength drawn out of them.
“A new cookery book, edited by M’Dougal, the master of the Andover
Union, is evidently a desideratum in culinary literature, which even
Soyer’s universal genius has hitherto left unsupplied.”--_Punch._
* * * * *
THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR.
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.
THE TIMES.
_The Gastronomic Regenerator._--_The Modern Cook._--“Any body can dine,”
says the clever and profound author of the ‘Original,’ “but very few
know how to dine so as to ensure the greatest quantity of health and
enjoyment.” The pith and truth of this remark are unquestionable; and,
indeed, we know nothing more painful than that utter disregard of the
very first principles of gastronomic science evinced by so many
unprincipled and reckless individuals of the present day, who eat as
though the sole object of eating were to sustain life. Not that they
take the best means for accomplishing even that ignoble end. The rules,
whose observance renders eating a luxury and an art, also conduce in the
highest degree to health. Sacrifices to Ceres and Bacchus, in the very
act of the offering, should have a sweet fragrance in the nostrils of
Hygeia.
Who shall affix a boundary to the possible progress of an art? Let the
vulgar do so, who, struck by apparent perfection, conclude at once that
the force of genius “can no further go.” We assert fearlessly that the
limits of human creation and improvement are yet unknown. Least of all
are they to be defined with reference to that great art which has been
styled “the standard and gauge of human civilization,” and which
Montaigne, with less respect, denominated the _science de la gueule_.
Sceptics were they who, revelling at the table of Louis XIV in the
sauces of a Bechamel, or lingering at the board of the great Condé over
the _chefs d’œuvre_ of a Vatel--that illustrious martyr to a point of
culinary honour!--or inhaling gently and delicately, and degustating
slowly, and with marvellous discrimination, the exquisite and
quintessential results of the vigils of an Ude, who refused, in their
turns, to believe that the science professed by these great men could be
capable of improvement, or was susceptible of higher elevation. Alas!
have we not lived to vote the resources of all _perruque_ and _rococo_,
and to behold the precious laurels that wreathed the temples of the
culinary demigods of the 18th century, transferred by acclamation in the
19th to the mighty brows of a Carême and a Beauvilliers, a Soyer and a
Francatelli--great names every one--poetizers of the spit, philosophers
of the larder, sublime fire-worshippers, high priests of a kitchen
fuller than Druidical groves of deep and sacred mysteries?
The two bulky and important volumes before us are characteristic of the
distinguished artists to whom we own them. Written, the one by a
Frenchman, the other by an Englishman (for Mr. Francatelli, in spite of
his name, boasts of an Anglican origin), they differ greatly in form,
although in substance, as far as the uninitiated may judge, they are
equally excellent. The Modern Cook enters upon his task in a grave and
business-like fashion, never tempted into digression, never moved into
metaphor, ever keeping in view his main object, which, we an proud to
say, is eminently patriotic, for he seeks to elevate the character and
position of the English Cook, and to produce a work creditable to the
gastronomic knowledge of the nation. “The Gastronomic Regenerator” is a
different personage. He can afford to garnish his prose with the flowers
of fancy, as his material dishes are crowned with _croustades_ and
_atelettes_; he handles with equal ability the quill of Pegasus and the
larding-needle, and records with the former the achievements of the
latter, in a strain of enthusiasm and heroic sensibility that are not to
be surpassed even in the odes of a poet laureate. We confess at the
outset that there is much to marvel at in the recondite pages of the
Regenerator, but there is nothing to admire more than his matchless
modesty, his courteous urbanity, his devotion to the fair sex, and his
occasional touching and highly imaginative digressions.
“Why do you not write and publish a Cookery-book? was a question
continually put to me. For a considerable time this scientific word
caused a thrill of horror to pervade my frame, and brought back to my
mind that one day, being in a most superb library in the midst of a
splendid baronial hall, by chance I met with one of Milton’s allegorical
works, the profound ideas of Locke, the several _chefs d’œuvre_ of
one of the noblest champions of literature, Shakspeare; when all at
once my attention was attracted by the nineteenth edition of a
voluminous work: such an immense success of publication caused me to
say, ‘Oh! you celebrated man, posterity counts every hour of fame upon
your regretted ashes!’ Opening this work with intense curiosity, to my
great disappointment what did I see,--a receipt for Ox-tail Soup! The
terrifying effect produced upon me by this succulent volume made me
determine that my few ideas, whether culinary or domestic, should never
encumber a sanctuary which should be entirely devoted to works worthy of
a place in the Temple of the Muses.”
Why, then, great artist, transgress this noble resolution? Why commit a
desecration which, indeed, is no desecration, save to your own
pre-eminent and too fastidious judgment? Ah, shall we confess it? It is
the old story, familiar to the playgoing public, and to the printers of
playbills. “The particular desire of several persons of distinction,”
and especially of the ladies, to whose appeals M. Soyer Informs us he
could never turn a deaf ear, has dragged the sage from his retirement,
and compelled him to do violence to a settled conviction and a holy
purpose. Some idea of the sacrifice which M. Soyer was called upon to
make by the entreaties of the ladies and the distinguished individuals
adverted to, may be gathered from the history of the hero during the
composition of his work. For ten months he laboured at the pyramid which
the remotest posterity shall applaud; and during the whole of that
period he was intent upon providing the countless meals which a living
generation have already approved and fully digested. Talk of the labours
of a Prime Minister or Lord Chancellor! Sir R. Peel was not an idle man.
Lord Brougham is a tolerably busy one. Could either, we ask, in the
short space of ten months--ten “little months”--have written ‘The
Gastronomic Regenerator,’ and furnished 25,000 dinners, 38 banquets of
importance, comprising above 70,000 dishes, besides providing daily for
60 servants, and receiving the visits of 15,000 strangers, all too eager
to inspect the renowned altar of a great Apician temple? All this did M.
Soyer, and we back him for industry against even the indefatigable
Brougham.
That more than one of the 38 banquets were of the highest moment, and
must at the time have engrossed the mind of their accomplished author,
to the serious derangement of his literary avocations, admits of no
question the moment we peruse one bill of fare which M. Soyer places
before our dazzled and admiring eyes. A memorable dinner was given at
the Reform Club, upon the 9th day of May of the present year, to a
select party of ten highly-gifted connoisseurs; none of your
gobble-and-gulp people, who, in their melancholy ignorance, swallow a
_potage à la Comte de Paris_, or a _rissolette à la Pompadour_, with the
same frightful _nonchalance_ as a sailor will devour his pea-soup, or a
rustic bolt his bacon; but creatures of ethereal natures, devotees of
what the painters call “high art;” men who feed their bodies only to
give elasticity and vigour to their souls. The _Diner Lucullusian à la
Sampayo_ was ordered with a magnificent contempt of expense. No money
was to be spared in obtaining the most novel, luxurious, and rare
compounds that ingenuity could discover or gold procure. Stimulated by
the anxious and repeated visits of a noble-spirited, and judicious
guide, a Grove and a Jay, a Townsend and a Morel, a Slater and a
Solomon, surpassed themselves in the quality of the viands they
purveyed. One dish, the “_Buisson d’Ecrévisses Pagodatique au vin de
Champagne à la Sampayo_” cost something more than seven guineas--a
trifle! Two large bottles of Perigord truffles, value four guineas, were
stewed with the _écrévisses_ in champagne. We have no heart to proceed,
for “the author regrets that, in fulfilment of an agreement between him
and M. Sampayo, he is restricted from giving the receipt of crawfish _à
la Sampayo_.” Why was the dish mentioned at all, if the world is still
to be deprived of the receipt? The loss is a national one. Doubtless it
would have been very popular at the small clubs, and in great request
with gentlemen of limited incomes! But to return to the incomparable
dinner. There were _dotrelles aux feuilles de vignes_, and there was
_miroton de homard aux œufs de pluvier_, and there were many other
dishes, too, enough as you would think to crown the happiness of a cook,
and to satisfy the ambition of the proudest caterer in Christendom. You
know not cooks. At page 608 of ‘The Regenerator,’ the soft sigh of a
Soyer falls painfully upon the reader’s ear; and no wonder! A brilliant
thought--one of those superb inspirations, the property of great
minds--had occurred to our author during the procreation of this
matchless banquet. Mentioned by him to the mysterious and too exclusive
Sampayo and his friends, they caught with joy the idea. Two dozen of
ortolans and twelve of the largest and finest truffles were to be
procured, and in each of the latter a hole was to be dug, wherein one of
the unctuous and semi-transparent little volatiles was to be buried.
Yes, the delicate native of Provence gloriously interred in the choicest
production of Perigord; then must a piece of calf or lamb’s caul
(exquisite minuteness of description!) cover the aperture and shelter
the imprisoned bird; then was there to be braising in a gravy of fowls
and Lachrymæ Christi, poached forcemeat upon the dish, the truffles in
pyramid. Upon that, a _purée_ with the truffle that bad been dug out of
the graves, and a _garniture_ of roasted ortolans. Stupendous thought!
we have read of superior minds overcoming obstacles long deemed
insurmountable, and have gathered from the perusal strength for the
difficult struggle of life. Such strength find we here. “An ortolan,”
said Alexis Soyer, pondering on the difficult and self-appointed task,
“an ortolan can hardly be truffled, but I will undertake that a truffle
shall be ortolaned!” He might have added, “‘Tis not in mortals to
command success; we’ll do more, Sampayo, we’ll deserve it;” for great as
the Regenerator’s conception was, it was not destined to be realized.
The elements were unpropitious, and the ortolans did not arrive in time
from Paris, whence they had been ordered. This, however, was the only
failure. Everything else was to the turn, the minute. At seven o’clock
the Severn salmon arrived alive, and by express from Gloucester. Ten
minutes later it smoked upon the board. Happy Sampayo!--happier
guests!--immortal Soyer!
We turn to the pictorial portion of this notable book. After the
agreeable portrait of the author, which faces the title-page, the first
of the woodcuts that attracts attention is “The Table of the Wealthy,”
with the motto, “_Rien ne dispose mieux l’esprit humain à des
transactions amicales qu’un dîner bien conçu et artistement préparé_.” A
great maxim of diplomacy! How many treaties of peace and commerce have
owed their conclusion to the mollifying effects of a series of good
dinners! What numerous misunderstandings have been arranged and thorny
points happily settled, less by the wisdom of the ambassador than by the
ability of the ambassador’s cook! On a judiciously-compounded sauce, or
a _rôti cuit à point_, or the seasoning of a _salmi_, or the twirl of a
_casserole_, may depend the fate of a crowned head,--the marriage of a
prince,--the weal or woe of a nation. Is cookery, then, no art? Truly is
it--the highest, the noblest!
A second plate, “My Table at Home,” represents M. Soyer, in his
_foyers_, presiding over a select party assembled round his hospitable
and well-furnished board. Behold again the unrivalled gallantry of the
country, and the individual finding a vent in a poetic and touching
smile. “A gastronomical _réunion_, without ladies,” says the chief cook
of the Reform Club,” is a parterre without flowers, the ocean without
waves, a fleet without sails.”
Talking of fleets, let us pass on at once to the Turkey _à la Nelson_,
which deceased but much honoured bird is placed with its tail in the
prow of a Roman galley, duly provided with anchor, sail, and all fitting
appurtenances, and surmounted by fictitious ducklings, manufactured, as
we are informed, but should never have divined, of the legs of fowls.
Further on we have the _Gateau Britannique à l‘Amiral_, a comely
corvette of cake, coppered with chocolate, displaying wafer sails and
sugar rigging, tossing upon waves of _gelée à la Bacchante_,--her canvas
swelling to a favouring breeze,--her sides dripping with wine and
marmalade,--her interior, even to the hatchways, filled with such a
freight as none but Soyer could provide, and perfect _gourmets_
thoroughly appreciate. It is whispered that upon this gallant ship
Commodore Napier did fearful execution in the presence of his quondam
foe and present friend, Ibrahim Pacha, when that illustrious individual
dined with the Commodore at his club. Assaulting the craft with the
fierce impetuosity for which the hero of Acre is so renowned, and
thrusting his boarding-pike--his spoon we would say--deep into the hold
of the luscious craft, he destroyed in an instant Soyer’s labour of a
day. Timbers were stove in or out,--sails came down by the run,--masts
went by the board,--and all was wreck, where a second before all had
been symmetry and perfection.
Nothing that relates to the kitchen or the table has been neglected or
overlooked by the Regenerator. We have plans and drawings of kitchens of
every description, from the matchless establishments of the Reform Club,
with its ice drawers, slate wells, steam closets, _bains marie_, and
fifty other modern refinements, to the unpretending cooking-places of
the cottage or the bachelor. But perhaps the section of the book to be
chiefly prized by the general reader and indifferent gastronome, is the
short one relating to carving. Good carvers are almost as rare as good
tenor singers. The proper dissection of flesh and fowl is a matter of
high importance, rarely excelled in, but should be always studied. It is
an accomplishment almost as indispensable as reading and writing, and
quite as graceful. “If you should, unhappily,” says Launcelot Sturgeon,
in his Essays, Moral, Philosophical, and Stomachic, “be forced to carve
at table, neither labour at the joint till you put yourself in a heat,
nor make such a desperate effort to dissect it as may put your
neighbours in fear of their lives; however, if an accident should
happen, make no excuses, for they are only an acknowledgment of
awkwardness. We remember to have seen a man of high fashion deposit a
turkey in this way in the lap of a lady, but with admirable composure,
and without offering the slightest apology, he finished a story which he
was telling at the same time, and then quietly turning to her, merely
said, ‘Madam, I’ll thank you for that turkey.’” To those who may not
possess similar coolness, and the same stoical indifference to the fate
of ladies’ dresses and the results of ladies’ indignation, M. Soyer’s
improvements in carving are valuable indeed.
“Nature, says I to myself, compels us to dine more or less once a day;
each of those days you are, honorable reader, subject to meet en
_tête-à-tête_ with a fowl, poularde, duck, pheasant, or other volatile
species; is it not bad enough to have sacrificed the lives of those
_amimaus bienfaisans_ to satisfy our indefatigable appetites, without
pulling and tearing to atoms the remains of our benefactors? it is high
time for the credit of humanity and the comfort of quiet families, to
put an end to the massacre of those innocents.”
Incomparable benevolence! Tenderest commiseration! Perfect humanity! “We
will be sacrificers, not butchers, Caius Cassius.” The philanthropic
progress of the century has reached the kitchen, and animal love is most
intense in the vicinity of the stockpot. What would the kitchen of the
Reform Club be without humanity and the liberal sentiments? No more will
barbarous cooks be haunted by horrid visons of the night! Incipient
porkers shall no longer pine away their sweetness, and strive to toughen
their crackling in anticipation of a final flagellation. Eels shall no
longer be required to give up their skins before their ghosts, and some
humaner process than a surfeit of food, a deprivation of drink, and a
gradual roasting near a scorching fire, will, let us hope, be
discovered, to give to the livers of ducks that glorious expansion and
pinguid richness so much appreciated by the epicure. We will not despair
of witnessing, under the dominion of M. Soyer, the introduction and use
of some instrument analogous to the guillotine, which by a stroke shall
do its deadly necessary work: nay, might not advances lately made in
Mesmerism be turned to good account in procuring painless death to those
whom the feeling Soyer so beautifully calls our “benefactors?” A goose,
in a state of coma, would be uncognizant of the penknife that divides
its jugular; calves and sheep properly subjected to the action of the
magnetic fluid would pass from life into the larder without a struggle
or a groan. But to carving! For joints, our author gives most lucid
directions, which, if properly studied, cannot fail to convert the
merest tyro into an admirable carver. For game and poultry he has done
more. He has invented an instrument, to be had at Bramah’s, in
Piccadilly, and with which printed directions are given, by the aid of
which the joints of birds are severed without the smallest detriment to
their good looks. “Formerly,” he says, “nothing was more difficult to
carve than wild fowl, the continual motion (when alive) of the wings and
legs making the sinews almost as tough as wires, puzzling the best of
carvers to separate them; my new method has quite abolished such a
domestic tribulation.” For which, as well as for the many other benefits
conferred by him upon the human race and the brute creation, we beg to
reiterate our humble hearty thanks to the talented author of ‘The
Gastronomic Regenerator.’
THE MORNING CHRONICLE.
_Alexis Soyer, the Gastronomic Regenerator._--Everybody who knows him,
everybody who has sat before his dishes, everybody interested in the
promotion of the Reform cause, or who likes to have a good dinner at
home, has long since said in his heart “Why does not Soyer write a book
about cookery?” When Reform was flagging, when Peel had it all his own
way, before a country party was thought of, or a revolt seemed possible,
when the idea of the Whigs coming in was hopeless, and the party
therefore needed consolation, what did Soyer do? At that moment of
general depression Alexis Soyer invented _cutlets à la réforme_. _He_
didn’t despair, _he_ knew the _avenir_ that was before the party. He
rallied them round the invigorating table, from which they rose cheered
and courageous; flushed with victuals, their attack upon the enemy was
irresistible (as under such circumstances the charge of Britons always
is), and Downing-street may be said to be the dessert of the dinners in
Pall-mall. He is one of the greatest politicians and pacificators in the
world. If they had him in Conciliation-hall, even there they would leave
off quarrelling. Look at his influence upon the diplomacy of our
country! In this very day’s paper appears an account of a dinner at that
very Reform Club which Soyer loves, and which has stood as sponsor to
the great cutlets which he invented--of a dinner at which Lord
Palmerston and Ibrahim Pacha had their hands in the same dish of pilaff,
and the maker of that dish was Alexis Soyer. To such a noble and
magnanimous spirit as Soyer’s evidently is, such a meeting will cause
pride and thankfulness indeed. It is a happy omen. They have eaten salt
together, and the peace of the world is assured.
How it was that Gibbon came to write the ‘Decline and Fall;’ under what
particular circumstances Newton conceived the theory of gravitation; how
Scott invented his works, &c., are historic anecdotes with which all
persons interested in literature are familiar. It is always pleasant to
know how and where a great thought came into the brain of a great man,
and so it is agreeable to know how this cookery book, which all the
world longed for, was suggested to Soyer. (See the Preface.)
Surely this preface is one of the most remarkable documents that ever
ushered any book into the world. Soyer has made it a rule never to
refuse anything in his power to the ladies (the rogue)!--and, amongst
other favours, they asked him for a cookery-book. The request caused
him “a thrill of horror;” but being in a library in the midst of a hall,
where he met with _one_ of Milton’s allegorical works, Locke’s profound
ideas, and several _chefs d’œuvre_ of that noble champion of
literature, Shakspeare, what should his eye turn to but a cookery-book
closeted in such company! “The terrifying effect of that succulent
volume” made him determine that he never would write a book of the
culinary sort.
What was the consequence? The very determination not to write, forced
him into “a thousand gastronomic reflections.” Write he must, and it was
sheer modesty that generated the Regenerator. Mark the pleasantry upon
the word “lost,” the last word in the preface, and fancy Soyer lost in
Paradise. Tempter! if you had been in any such place, to what could you
not have persuaded the first gourmand! In fine, Soyer determined to
write this book, because he justly “considered that the pleasures of the
table are an every-day enjoyment, _which reflects good and evil on all
classes_.” And when we remember that he has written the work in ten
months, during which he has also supplied 25,000 dinners to the
gentlemen of the Reform Club, and 38 dinners of importance, comprising
70,000 dishes; that he had to provide daily for 60 servants, and to do
the honours of the club to 15,000 visitors, one may fancy what genius
and perseverance can accomplish. He says he is “entirely satisfied with
the composition, distribution, and arrangement of the volume.” _Exegit
monumentum_ in fact. He has been and done it. He gives you his
signature, his portrait _en buste_, and another full length, in which he
is represented in his parlour at home (where, in spite of his
avocations, he has leisure to receive his friends and consume a most
prodigious quantity of victuals), surrounded by a select society of
private friends, dispensing to them some of the luxuries which he
describes in his 700 pages.
After a few prefatory observations about carving, for which he has
invented a new and apparently successful, though unintelligible
method--about larding, which he recommends to the English “middle
classes”--the seasons of fish and game, &c.--the utensils for the
kitchen--Soyer plunges into sauces at once, as the great test of
culinary civilization. The key-sauces are the White Sauce, No. 7, and
the Brown Sauce, No. 1. They are the _principia_ of the science--they
are the sauces which Soyer daily and principally uses. If the reader
suspects that we are going to transcribe the formula for the preparation
of these sauces, he is disappointed. No; let those who want the sauce
buy the book, and enjoy both.
From sauces we go to “Potages or Soups” (and what are these, in fact,
but diluted and agreeable sauce?), commencing with the clear light
broth, or FIRST STOCK of soup, and proceeding to a hundred delicious
varieties--the Louis Philippe, the Jerusalem, the Marcus-Hill, the
Princess Royal, &c. Nothing can be more delicate or worthy of a young
princess than this latter little soup; whereas the “potage à la
comtesse,” beginning with “cut half a pound of lean ham with an onion,”
is of a much stronger character. All these soups are flavoured with
appropriate observations, as, for instance--“In fact it is much better
for all thick soups to be too thin than too thick.” Louis Philippe soup,
he says, should contain “Brussels sprouts, _boiled very green_.” Here is
sorely some wicked satire here.
From soup we come to fish, as in the order of nature; thence to the
hors-d’œuvre and removes, to the flancs, the entrées, the roasts, the
vegetables, the sweets, or the entremets, and the second-course removes.
As the critic reads from page to page his task becomes absolutely
painful, so delicious is the style, so “succulent” are the descriptions,
and so provoking the hunger which they inspire. Every now and then you
get anecdotes, historical and topographical allusions, &c. (See p. 472.)
How finely it is written! “Will _your excellency_ call to-morrow
morning?” Talleyrand’s friend says nothing, but you see his rank at
once, and when his excellency is gone, the Prince of Benevent rings the
bell and orders--some of his favorite dishes. There is an account in the
volume of crawfish aux truffes à la Sampayo, which makes one almost
frantic with hunger.
And what will the reader say to this dish, which is the invention, not
of Soyer the cook, but of Soyer the poet:--“The Celestial and
Terrestrial Cream of Great Britain.” (See p. 710.)
If this dish was provided for his Highness Ibrahim Pacha last night, no
Eastern prince since the days of the Barmecide was ever so entertained.
_Ardebit Alexim._ His Highness will be bribing away this Gascon genius
at any price to Cairo. He will become---- Pacha, and the cause of Reform
will begin to droop.
Besides poetry, there are pictures in this incomparable volume. The
dindonneau à la Nelson (of which the croustade is the bow of a ship, in
compliment to the hero of Aboukir) is a picture worthy of Turner. The
engraving of Soyer’s own parlour, where a pretty maid is in waiting (and
an exceedingly pretty girl, by the way, is seated by the great artist)
is an enticing interior, in which any man would like to let his portrait
appear. The picture of “Salade de Grouse à la Soyer” is a capital
portrait, and will be recognized by all who know and love the original.
Soyer’s own portrait we have mentioned before. But perhaps the finest
and most interesting work of art in the volume, is the plate at p. 294,
which represents, of the natural size, a mutton cutlet, a pork cutlet,
and a lamb cutlet. This cut--this plate of cutlets we should say--is
incomparable.
THE MORNING POST.
In spite of all that we have heard for some years past about the
enlightenment of the age, there are still certain vulgar errors, and
errors on very vital subjects, to which the English adhere with all the
constancy of martyrs.
Perhaps these errors are more abundant in relation to the preparation of
food than to almost any other matter. At present, in the middle of the
nineteenth century, the generality of people in England have only roast
and boil, after a fashion; and there the culinary acquirements of the
multitude find their extreme limits. Others, there are, indeed, who take
a higher flight; they affect soups and gravies, and even aspire to put
vegetables on their tables; but in all these cases nothing can be more
inartificial than the system pursued. Hot water is the chief ingredient,
and pepper the condiment. Thus, for soup;--fry two or three slices of
coarse beef in plenty of fat, boil it in water, and saturate it with
pepper and salt, and your tureen is provided for. Of mutton broth we are
not so sure of the process; but the decoction has all the appearance of
being composed of the eternal hot water, stirred with a tallow candle,
to give the necessary number of globules of grease on the surface, and
ornamented at the top with a few floating particles of parsley. A gravy
in more frequent use is exceedingly simple. When a leg of mutton is
roasted, the person miscalled a cook pours a teacupful of water over the
joint, and the gravy is complete. Vegetables are only required to retain
as much as possible of the fetid water in which they are boiled, and to
be sunk as deep in melted butter as a river bound collier is in the sea,
and they are considered “a dainty dish to set before a king.”
Such are a few everyday examples of the English practice of
cookery--principles it evidently has none. In France they order these
things differently. During a succession of revolutions, extending over a
space of nearly sixty years, constitutions have been abandoned as soon
as adopted; kings and nobles have been murdered; but _La Cuisine_ has
ever been held inviolate, and chefs deserving of the name have not
ceased to be venerated. And what is the result?--that in France, where
the raw material is, with the single exception of veal, perhaps,
inferior to ours, a dinner can be produced worthy of Lucullus; in
England, save under the superintendence of French artists, such a feat
is plainly impossible. Surely, then, it behoves us to do what we may for
availing ourselves, in their fullest extent, of the advantages we have
received from nature, not perhaps by going the somewhat extreme length
that we have heard suggested, of establishing professorships of
gastronomy in our universities, on the broad ground that domestic is as
well worthy of being encouraged as political economy, but by profiting,
to the best of our abilities, under the instructions of those who really
understand the art in which we are so lamentably deficient. So desirable
an object has hitherto been baffled by the popular prejudice that good
cookery is necessarily unwholesome. It is no such thing. An accomplished
cook is an accomplished chemist; he knows the several affinities of
substances for each other, and not only balances these with the utmost
exactitude, but even prescribes, with the same view, the particular
description of wine proper to each stage of his banquet. We all remember
the celebrated answer of Carême to George IV, whose cuisine he
superintended while that sovereign was regent. “Carême,” said the
prince, “your cookery will be the death of me; see how I am suffering
from indigestion.” “Sire,” replied the professor, “I am innocent of the
charge; it is my duty to provide you with a dinner, the discretion to
use it properly must originate with your royal highness.” So true is it
that the evil lies in the abuse and not in the use of good things.
Another objection to elaborate cookery is the expense it is supposed to
involve. Both the points have been satisfactorily met in the work before
us. The many receipts furnished by M. Soyer, and they amount to nearly
two thousand, afford evidence at once of careful study and of extreme
delicacy. Everything gross is excluded, and the more nutritious portions
of food are alone preserved, in such forms as to please the eye and the
palate, without embarrassment to the digestive process. Neither of these
objects is attained under the ordinary English system. Huge joints
offend the sight, and half-raw meat tasks the organs of digestion beyond
their power, by presenting to them masses of unbroken fibres. To save
trouble to the stomach the fibre must be destroyed by the action of
heat, and this can never be effected by exposing food to the fire during
only half the time that is necessary.
Then, as to the expense of superior cookery, M. Soyer has taken the best
means of refuting the error by showing that much improvement may be made
without addition to the cost. In one portion of his book he provides
materials for the dinner of an emperor; in the other, entitled, “My
Kitchen at Home,” he enables the smallest private family, or even the
solitary bachelor, to live well on small means.
It would be incompatible with our limits to discuss fully the two
systems of the author, and to abstain from any illustration of them
would be unjust to him and unsatisfactory to the reader. We will
therefore give one example of each--the magnificent and the simple; and
the first shall be a banquet served at the Reform Club, on the 9th of
May last to a private party of ten persons (see page 609), and for a
dinner party for eight persons, at home (see page 636).
Of the simple arrangement for a bachelor or a married couple, combining,
as they do, elegance with economy, we cannot give a selection; because
we would not offer a brick as a specimen of the house; but we strongly
recommend them to all who are tired of conventional dinners composed of
everlasting chops and steaks.
In short the work of M. Soyer is one that cannot fail of being
extensively read. If it be worth while to spend as much time as
everybody does in eating, it is surely advisable to see that our time is
not thrown away--that we live like civilized beings rather than New
Zealand savages. In this important point the system of M. Soyer is
worthy of praise, and we feel that we only anticipate our readers in
thanking him for the labour he has bestowed in elucidating a pursuit
that, in despite of twaddle, is at least one of the minor amenities of
life.
THE MORNING HERALD.
We approach with all due reverence and respect the discussion of the
important and mysterious changes effected by the chemical action of that
most potent of all galvanic agencies, whose resistless influence is
acknowledged by sages, philosophers, and statesmen, and whose
sympathetic vibrations finds response in every breast--the _batterie de
cuisine_. ‘The Gastronomic Regenerator; a New System of Cookery.’ We
have given both the titles, because in so deeply interesting a race, all
parties from the Royal duke, whose gracious condescension sanctions the
dedication in the title-page, to the humble artisan who sniffs the
fragrant perfume as he passes the area of the Reform Club, are entitled
to start fair; and to the uninitiated the pronomen would require a
greater amount of consideration than accords with good digestion. For
ourselves, we can only say, with the cockney lady in the play, “How
delightfully unintelligible! how far-fetched! how French!” But we have a
shrewd guess that the impracticable title was designed, like some of his
_sauces piquantes_, as a cabalistic whet or provocative to the teeming
fancies and gustatory glories of the interior, and that pronounced with
due emphasis and discretion before a meal, it would “create an appetite
under the very ribs of death.” The importance of a good dinner is become
almost an axiom in morals and philosophy; with ourselves it has been
elevated to the rank of an article of faith. We cannot, therefore, too
highly appreciate the labours of distinguished men who, like M. Soyer,
sacrifice themselves to a sense of public duty, and present to an
admiring and hungry world those treasures of _gastronomie_ which are the
very triumph of artistic skill. The ancient proverb has it that “any one
can dine,” to which modern political economy has added, “if he have the
means,”--happily for the present generation they live in the third era
of progressive advancement, when dining has become a science, and the
good things which Providence has abundantly supplied to us are rendered
subservient at once to health and refined enjoyment. M. Soyer tells us
that nothing better disposes the human mind to amiable feelings than a
dinner, _bien conçu et artistement préparé_. How deeply grateful, then,
should our countrymen feel who make dining the great business of life,
and with whom a dinner forms the grand rallying point for every striking
demonstration of pleasure, or business, or friendship, or charity, to
one who in the proud humility of his unrivalled genius is content to
rank a good cook only on the same footing as a wise counsellor! We have
been accustomed to vaunt of our liberty, our independence, and our
unbounded wealth, but to our eternal disgrace be it recorded that, while
we enjoy the fruits of their labours, we are silent on the subject of
our obligations to the accomplished _cuisinier_. The talent and research
of a Vatel, a Carême, and a Bechamel have done much to place us on an
equality with our more fastidious and artistic neighbours, the
French--it remained for a Soyer to consummate the good work, and place
the golden atelette upon the croustade of the _dindonneau à la Nelson_.
M. Soyer has evidently a just appreciation of the dignity of the science
of which he is so distinguished a professor; with a mind comprehensive
enough to grasp all the most intricate and difficult combinations of the
culinary art, he is above the littleness of discarding his guests
because they may add salt to their soup, contenting himself with the
sage maxim that “it is the duty of the cook to season for the guests,
and not the guests for the cook.” And verily, if all our cooks were such
“top” Soyers, it would be downright heresy to “paint the lily or add a
perfume to the violet.” Since we read the work we have been tempted more
than once to renounce our honest convictions, and sell our party for a
mess of _potage_--_à la Julienne_. We had no idea that so much good
could emanate from the Reform Club, and lived in the belief that their
dinners were as dull as their dogmas, and their _pâtés_ as indifferent
as their principles. But political discussions are interdicted over the
dinner table, and with M. Soyer as caterer we honestly confess that we
could dine in all love and amity with a Radical or a Repealer, and get
“jolly” with a Chartist or an Owenite. We shall entertain a better
opinion all our lives of a party so well served in the culinary
department. Our readers will be naturally anxious to learn the moving
cause of the thousand gastronomic reflections that crowd the
volume--what powerful agency impelled him _tot adire labores_; and but
for the habit of discursiveness which has marred our fortunes to the
present hour we should have given it the prominence it deservedly
obtains in the preface. Honour then to whom honour is due,--_place aux
dames_--it is “at the request of several persons of distinction,
particularly the ladies, to whom I have always made it a rule never to
refuse anything in my power.” Never was there so touching a tribute of
homage; never was the proverbial gallantry of his countrymen so
strikingly or so gracefully exemplified. But we have all this time
withheld our readers from a peep into the interior, and here our
difficulties begin. We have rambled through the greater portion of the
700 or 800 pages of the book, and find every recipe an epic, every dish
a picture, and every sauce a study. We are perplexed between the glories
of the _dîner Lucullusian_, the most _recherché_ dinner ever dressed,
the _pagodatique entrée_, the _gateau Britannique à l’amiral_, the
ortolaned truffles which Soyer devised, but the fates forbid, and the
more unpretending but not less valuable details of “My Kitchen at Home,”
redolent of savoury and appetitizing streams, which are within the reach
of the middle and humbler classes. All are exquisite in their way; and
had the Abyssinian prince, who roamed over half the globe in search of
happiness, but lighted on this volume he would have sat down
contentedly, ordered a new dish for every day in the year, and abandoned
all thought of returning to the happy valley. _Mais revenons à nos
moutons_, the approach to which is stopped by the _cheveux de frise_ of
a carving-knife and fork. Now carving, being, the _coup de grâce_ to
cookery, rather unaccountably, but probably artistically, occupies the
first chapter; and our author, after referring to the tribulation of
carving “for appetites more or less colossal, and when all eyes are
fixed upon you with anxious avidity,” opens his instructions with the
following curious historic anecdote (see p. xii).
And then follow some very sage reflections upon the necessity of dining
“more or less once a day,” and a pathetic appeal to the “manglers” not
to tear to atoms the remains of our benefactors; and with this flourish
of the knife enter “directions for carving,” which are extremely brief
and simple, and which are wound up with the hint, seldom attended to by
even experienced carvers, that nothing is more creditable to a carver
than leaving a piece of meat, game, or poultry fit to reappear at table
in an inviting state.
One extract more, and we shall terminate our pleasing labours, premising
that our selection has been made more with a view to novelty than from
any want of more _recherché_ and attractive materials. The _fanfare_ is
with reference to the French _pot-au-feu_ (see p. 649).
But here we must pause, for we are almost cloyed with sweets and
dainties. With the best appetite and inclination in the world, we are
reluctantly compelled to subscribe to our artist’s doctrine, that a man
can dine but once a day, and our literary banquet has been already a
most seductive and profuse one. We purposed giving the recipe of the
far-famed pot-au-feu, but we presume it is already, or shortly will be,
in the hands of all the world, and if any of our readers have not yet
made up their minds, we advise them to send without loss of time to
Simpkin, Marshall, and Co.
THE MORNING ADVERTISER.
“The fame of the Reform Club and its matchless _cuisine_, under the
direction of that great master of his art, Alexis Soyer, have gone to
the uttermost ends of the earth. To render that fame imperishable, Soyer
has composed his ‘Gastronomic Regenerator,’ a work which is destined to
throw all others, from the time-honoured Mrs. Glass to the learned
Eustache Ude, into the shade. The former, most loveable in her way, will
henceforth only be remembered for her one receipt, “first catch your
hare,” &c.; the piquancy, the _utile et dulce_ characteristics of Soyer,
like one of his own chyle-begetting and renowned sauces, entirely
neutralises, absorbs, swallows up the greatest effort of Ude. _Tempus
edax rerum!_ Soyer is a wit and a wag of the first water; hence a
perusal of the introduction to the goodly volume before us acts as a
whet. “Laugh and grow fat” is an old and a true adage; read Soyer’s
introduction, and the veriest valetudinarian will afterwards sit down
and eat like a man! Soyer’s experience has been vast--_magnifique_!
hear, on the important head, what he tells his readers:--“During the
last ten months I had to furnish 25,000 dinners for the gentlemen of the
Reform Club, and 38 dinner parties of importance, comprising above
70,000 dishes, and to provide daily for 60 servants of the
establishment, independent of about 15,000 visitors who have seen the
kitchen department in that lapse of time.” Authors frequently assign a
reason for writing; Soyer, in this respect, is not behindhand; in his
preface he says;--“At the request of several persons of distinction who
have visited the Reform Club, particularly ladies, to whom I have always
made it a rule never to refuse anything in my power, for, indeed, it
must have been the fair sex who have had the majority in this domestic
argument to gain this gastronomical election. Why do you not write and
publish a cookery-book? was a question continually put to me. For a
considerable time this scientific word caused a thrill of horror to
pervade my frame, and brought back to my mind that one day, being in a
most superb library in the midst of a splendid baronial hall, by chance
I met with one of Milton’s allegorical works, the profound ideas of
Locke, and several _chefs d’œuvre_ of one of the noblest champions of
literature, Shakspeare; when all at once my attention was attracted by
the nineteenth edition of a voluminous work. Such an immense success of
publication caused me to say, ‘Oh, you celebrated man, posterity counts
every hour of fame upon your regretted ashes!’ Opening this work with
intense curiosity, to my great disappointment, what did I see,--a
receipt for Oxtail Soup! The terrifying effect produced upon me by this
succulent volume, made me determine that my few ideas, whether culinary
or domestic, should never encumber a sanctuary which should be entirely
devoted to works worthy of a place in the Temple of the Muses.” That
section of the work entitled “Soyer’s new mode of carving” (worthy of
the deepest attention) is thus ushered in:--“You are all aware,
honorable readers, of the continual tribulation in carving at table, for
appetites more or less colossal, and when all eyes are fixed upon you
with anxious avidity. Very few persons are perfect in this art, which
requires not only grace, but a great deal of skill. Others become very
nervous; many complain of the knife which has not the least objection to
be found fault with; or else they say, this capon, pheasant, or poulard
is not young, and consequently not of the best quality. You may
sometimes be right, but it certainly often happens that the greatest
gourmand is the worst carver, and complains sadly during that very long
process, saying to himself “I am last to be served, my dinner will be
cold.” Soyer’s motto is, “cleanliness is the soul of the kitchen;” the
_cuisine_ of the Reform Club is a perfect embodiment of this healthful
axiom. That portion of the work before us devoted to “The Kitchen at
Home,” deserves the attentive perusal of every housewife who wishes to
enjoy comfort herself and be the cause of it to others; the author is
almost as earnest and enthusiastic in his directions for the production
of a good rump-steak pudding for the stomach of common life as he is for
that of the most aristocratic and indulged. The work is, in short, one
suited to the palace of the prince, and the cottage of the peasant. The
two thousand practical receipts it contains, adapted to the incomes of
all parties, have been eaten by a “committee of taste,” who have
pronounced a verdict in their favour. It is appropriately dedicated to
his Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge, and the volume is rendered
more valuable by its numerous well-executed illustrations. The
frontispiece is a fine portrait of the author, after a painting by the
once-accomplished and now lamented Madame Soyer. It is a most truthful
portrait; each feature indicates the man--the play of the eloquent lip
in there, at once the portal of wit and the minister of intense palatic
sensibility. _Vive le Soyer!_
THE GLOBE
The Impression grows on us that the man of his age is neither Sir Robert
Peel, nor Lord John Russell, nor even Ibrahim Pacha, but Alexis Soyer.
Hazlitt has said that, if literary men directed the world, they would
leave nothing standing but printing presses. We know that parliamentary
leaders imagine parliamentary tactics, and talk the _primum mobile_ of
mankind. Eastern despots think it is the sword; but Alexis Soyer knows
it is the saucepan. When Napoleon first started the distinction of the
“Legion of Honour,” Moreau ridiculed it by proposing to confer a
_casserole d’honneur_ on his cook. But we beg to propose some “Soyer
testimonial,” without any joke at all. Have we not had a “Hudson
testimonial?”--are we not threatened with a “Lambert Jones
testimonial?”--to recompense, amongst other things, the laying that
heavy load upon mother earth, called the Royal Exchange. What then shall
be done unto the man who reared that light fabric of a Pyramid _à
l’Ibrahim Pacha_, on which twenty centuries doubtless looked down last
Friday evening, as they had very good reason to do,--since they might
have seen Pyramids any day these two or three thousand years, but it is
not every day they could see a Pyramid with “an elegant cream _à
l’ananas_” on the top of it, and on the top of that again “a
highly-finished portrait of the Illustrious stranger (Ibrahim Pacha’s)
father, Mehemet Ali, carefully drawn on a round shape of satin
_carton_.”
The veracious chronicler to whom we are now indebted for some
particulars, which the world would not willingly let die, of that dinner
at the Reform Club which has frighted some of our Paris contemporaries
from their propriety, proceeds as follows:
“The appearance of this ‘Crème d’Egypte à l’Ibrahim Pacha’ immediately
caught his Royal Highness’s attention, who at once perceived the honour
conferred upon him. He carefully took off the portrait _en carton_ in
his hands to admire it; and after showing it to several of his suite, he
affectionately placed it in his bosom near his heart, with the intention
of never parting with it again. But what was his astonishment, on
looking at the spot where the former portrait had been deposited, at
seeing in the cream, as under a glass, the portrait of himself, as
highly finished, and as striking a likeness as any miniature painter
could have produced, and surrounded by a gilt-like frame! Monsieur
Soyer, having been sent for by the party, was highly complimented by his
Highness through his interpreter, who desired to know where and how he
could procure such a likeness of his father, and how was his own so
correctly drawn in the cream? ‘Please tell his Highness,’ said Monsieur
Soyer to the interpreter, ‘that both were executed from the original
sketches drawn by our celebrated artist Horace Vernet, whilst in
Alexandria. The portrait in the cream is drawn on wafer-paper, which,
placed on the damp jelly, representing the glass, dissolves, and nothing
remains but the appearance of the portrait drawn in light water-colours.
The imitation of the gilt frame is made with _eau de vie_ of Dantzic,
and gold water mixed with jelly, the gold leaf of which forms the frame.
After having been thanked by the Pacha, the pyramidal cream of Egypt was
ordered to be shown to each guest, by sliding it from one to the other
round the table (which was more than 250 feet), to the great
satisfaction and admiration of every one present. Though everything was
eatable in it, this magnificent dish was respected, and remained
untouched, but every one tried to partake of the fruit which surrounded
this extraordinary and appropriate culinary wonder.”
The above is given chiefly for the benefit of our Paris contemporaries,
who do us the honour to mention that “_le Globe nous fait connaître les
étranges discours qu’ils ont, l’un et l’autre_ (Lord Palmerston and Sir
C. Napier), _recités à cette occasion_.” Waiving the question whether
there was anything “strange” in either speech we beg our Paris
contemporaries to observe that their compatriot, Monsieur Soyer had
effected a most skilful diversion from all delicate topics whatsoever.
“Segnitus irritant animos demisan per aures
Quam quæ sunt oculis subjecta fidelibus.”
Ibrahim Pacha’s interpreter, it now appears, had other things to do than
to interpret either political retrospects or prospects, as touched by
the several speakers. And surely it might soften the hearts of our
jealous friends about the Palais Royal, to see how large a part of the
triumph of the day was, in fact, a French triumph. Would we could stop
here! But truth compels us to say that our ally, Monsieur Soyer, forces
us, in the sequel, to feel strange doubts of his thorough devotion to
English interests.
“The next dish which much amused his Highness was the one entitled the
_Gateau Britannique à l’Amiral_, being the representation of an old
man-of-war, bearing the English and Egyptian flag drawn on rice-paper,
the ship being filled with ice _mousseuse aux pêches_, and loaded with
large strawberries, cherries, grapes, and bunches of currants, being so
placed on the table that the brave and gallant Commodore Napier had to
help from this cargo the illustrious stranger, who did not cease
smiling. During that process the moisture and liquor of the ice, which
gradually melted, saturated the hull of the vessel, which was made of a
kind of delicate sponge cake. Whilst the gallant commodore was in the
act of helping the remains of the ice, the ship gave way, and formed a
complete wreck, which caused great hilarity among the company who were
close enough to witness the scene.”
The above might form a most fertile text for sinister inferences, if we
possessed the talent in that line of some of our Paris contemporaries.
We content ourselves with expressing our satisfaction that Monsieur
Soyer never has been, and we hope never will be, intrusted with the
charge of Surveyor of the Navy, in addition to that of Chef de Cuisine
at the Reform Club. We have no objection to his building _gateaux
Britanniques_, which “give way” in the heat of action; but we desire to
see no _brioche_ of _his_ contriving in the Mediterranean.
THE SUN.
Who has not heard of the _cuisine_ of the Reform Club? Who has not heard
of its _chef_, Alexis Soyer, and his _soufflet monstre à la Clontarf_,
and his _créme de l’Egypte à l’Ibrahim Pacha_? Well, here we have the
mighty gastronomic magician coming forward, in _proprié persona_, and
informing us of the methods be employs to produce those results which
astonish and delight the world. If we mistake not, this book of M.
Soyer’s is destined to produce a revolution in the kitchens of England,
and to substitute for the fat, greasy, unscientific school of cookery
the science of gastronomy, a science which teaches the art of extracting
from food, animal and vegetable, the nutritions portions in such a
manner as to please the eye and the taste, while at the same time the
material is economised to the utmost. The following passage shows that
M. Soyer has had considerable experience on the subject of which he
treats:
“During the last ten months, I had to furnish 25,000 dinners for the
gentlemen of the Reform Club, and 38 dinner parties of importance,
comprising above 70,000 dishes, and to provide daily for 60 servants of
the establishment, independent of about 15,000 visitors who have seen
the kitchen department in that lapse of time.”
The result of that experience we have in this volume. He gives us bills
of fare for parties of all sizes, from a coronation banquet to a
bachelor’s snug party in chambers. He also gives us plans of kitchens of
all sizes, from the magnificent gastronomical laboratory of the Reform
Club to my “Kitchen at Home,” which is suited to the means and
requirements of the solitary bachelor. Let all those who are tired of
the eternal roast and boiled, alternating with chop and steak--who think
that mutton broth is not the only potage in the world--that there are
methods of dressing fish other than plain boiling and frying, and other
sauces than melted butter--purchase M. Soyer’s book. They will find that
it is indeed that which it professes itself to be--a Gastronomic
Regenerator.
BLACKWOOD’S MAGAZINE.
_Cookery and Civilization._ It is only after passing through an ordeal
cruelly insidious, tolerably severe, and rather protracted, that we feel
conscientiously entitled to assert our ability to dine every day of
every week at the Reform Club, without jeopardy to those immutable
principles which are incorruptible by Whigs and indestructible by Rats.
A sneer, perhaps, is curling with “beautiful disdain” the lips of some
Conservative Achilles. Let us nip his complacent sense of
invulnerability in the bud. To eat and to err are equally attributes of
humanity. Looking at ourselves in the mirror of honest criticism, we
behold features as unchangeable as sublunary vicissitudes will allow.
“Time writes no wrinkles on our azure brow.”
Witness it! ye many years of wondrous alternation--of lurid tempest and
sunny calm--of disastrous rout and triumphant procession--of shouting
pæan and wailing dirge--witness the imperturbable tenor of our way!
Attest it, thou goodly array of the tomes of Maga, laden and sparkling,
now as ever, with wisdom and wit, science and fancy!--attest the
unwavering fidelity of our career! All this is very true; but the secret
annals of the good can never be free from temptations, and never are in
reality unblotted by peccadilloes. The fury of the demagogue has been
our laughing-stock--the versatility of trimming politicians, our scorn.
We have crouched before none of the powers which have been, or be;
neither have we been carried off our feet by the whirlwinds of popular
passion. Yet it is difficult to resist a good dinner. The victories of
Miltiades robbed Themistocles of sleep. The triumphs of Soyer are apt to
affect us, “with a difference,” after the same fashion.
There was, we remember, a spirit of surly independence within us on
visiting, for the first time, the “high capital” of Whiggery, where the
Tail at present,
“New rubb’d with balm, expatiate and confer
Their state affairs.”
To admire anything was not our mood:
“The ascending pile
Stood fix’d her stately heighth; and straight the doors,
Opening their brazen folds, discover, wide
Within, her ample spaces, o’er the smooth
And level pavement.”
And as these lines suggested themselves, we recollected who the first
Whig is said to have been, and whose architectural glories Milton was
recording. We never yet heard a Radical disparage a peer of the realm
without being convinced, that deep in the pocket, next his heart, lay an
incautious hospitable invitation from the noble lord, to which a
precipitate answer in the affirmative had already been dispatched.
Analogously, in the magnificent edifice, whose tesselated floor we were
treading gingerly, it seemed to us that we surveyed an unmistakable
monument of an innate predilection for the splendours and comforts, the
pomp and the _abandon_, of a “proud aristocracy.” This was before
dinner, and we were hungry. To tell all that happened to us for some
hours afterwards, would, in fact, force us to transfer to our pages more
than half of the volume which is prompting these observations. Suffice
it to say, that when we again stood on Pall-Mall, a bland philanthropy
of sentiment, embracing all races, and classes, and sects of men,
permeated our bosom. Whence came the mellowing influence, seeing that we
had been, as our custom is, very innocent of wine? Nor could it be the
seductive eloquence of the company. We had, indeed, been roundly
vituperated in argument by the Liberator. Oh, yes! but we had been fed
by the Regenerator.
To us, then, on these things much meditating--so Cicero and Brougham
love to write--many of the speculations in which we had indulged, and
of the principles which we had advocated, were obviously not quite in
harmony with the views long inculcated by us on a docile public.
Suddenly the truth flashed across and illuminated the perplexity of our
ponderings. We were aware that, early in the evening, a much milder
censure than usual upon some factious Liberal manœuvre had passed our
lips. This took place just about the fourth spoonful of soup. The spells
were already in operation under the shape of “_potage à la Marcus
Hill_.” There is a fascination even in the name of this “delicious
soup”--such is the epithet of Soyer--which our readers will better
understand in the sequel. Again it was impossible to deny that we had
hazarded several equivocal observations in reference to the
Palmerstonian policy in Syria. But it was equally true that such
inadvertencies slipped from us while laboriously engaged in determining
a delicate competition between “_John Dorée à l’Orléannaise_” and
“_saumon à la Beyrout_.” A transient compliment to the influence at
elections of the famous Duchess of Devonshire was little liable to
objection, we imagined, during a playful examination of a few
“_aiguillettes de volaille à la jolie fille_.” More questionable, it
must be admitted, were certain assertions regarding the Five Points,
enunciated hastily over a “_neck of mutton à la Charte_.” No fault,
however, had we to find with the cutting facetiousness with which we had
garnished “_cotelettes d’agneau à la réforme en surprise aux
champignons_.” The title of this dish was so ludicrously applicable to
the consternation of the remnants of the Melbourne ministry--the cutlets
of lamb--in finding themselves outrun in the race by mushroom
free-traders, that our pleasantly thereanent was irresistible. It was
difficult, at the same time, to justify the expression of an opinion,
infinitely too favorable to Peel’s commercial policy, yielding to the
allurements of a “_turban des cailles à la financière_.” And, on the
whole, we smarted beneath a consciousness that all our conversation had
been perceptibly flavoured by “_filets de bécasses à la Talleyrand_.”
The result of these reflections was, simply, an alarming conviction of
the tremendous influence exercised by Soyer throughout all the workings
of the British constitution. The causes of the success of the League
begin to dawn upon us, while our gravest suspicions are confirmed by the
appearance, at this peculiar crisis, of ‘The Gastronomic Regenerator.’
What patriotism can withstand a superabundance of untaxed food, cooked
according to the tuition of Soyer? How can public virtue keep its ground
against such a rush of the raw material, covered by such a “_batterie de
cuisine_?” Cobden and Soyer, in alliance, have given a new turn, and
terribly literal power, to the fable of Menenius Agrippa.
“There was a time when all the body’s members
Rebell’d against the belly.”
Such times are gone. The belly now has it all its own way, while
“The kingly-crowned head, the vigilant eye,
The counsellor heart, the arm our soldier,
Our steed the leg, the tongue our trumpeter,”
are conjunctly and severally cuffed or bunged up, or broken, or stifled,
unless they are perpetually ministering to the service of the great
cormorant corporation. It is mighty well to talk of the dissolution of
the League. The testament of Cæsar, commented on by Mark Antony, was
eventually more fatal to the liberties of Rome, than the irrepressible
ambition which originally urged the arch-traitor across the Rubicon.
‘The Gastronomic Regenerator,’ in the hands of every housewife in the
country, is merely to convert the most invincible portion of the
community into a perpetual militia of free-traders. All cooks
proverbially encourage an enormous consumption of victuals. The study of
Soyer will infallibly transform three fourths of the empire into cooks.
Consequently, the demand for every variety of sustenance, by an immense
majority of the nation, will be exorbitant and perennial. No syllogism
can be more unassailable. We venture also to affirm that the judgment of
posterity will be rigidly true in apportioning the endurance of fame
which the conflicting merits of our great benefactors may deserve. It is
far from unlikely that the glories of a Peel may be disregarded,
forgotten, and unsung, when the trophies of a Soyer, still odorous, and
unctuous, and fresh, shall be in everybody’s mouth.
The ‘Gastronomic Regenerator’ has not assumed his imposing title without
a full appreciation of the dignity of his office, and the elevation of
his mission. The brief and graceful “dialogue culinaire” between Lord M.
H. and himself, illustrates the grand doctrines that man is a cooking
animal, and that the progress of cooking is the progress of
civilization. There is something prodigiously sublime in the words of
the noble interlocutor, when he declares, “Read history, and you see
that in every age, and among all nations, the good which has been done,
and sometimes the evil, has been always preceded or followed by a
copious dinner.” This language, we presume, must be considered, on the
great scale, as applicable to the most solemn and momentous occurrences
in the history of governments and countries. Not that we can exclude it
from individual biography. Benevolence we have always regarded as a
good sauce, and have often observed it to be an excellent dessert. The
man who tucks his napkin under his chin immediately after conferring a
benefit on a fellow-creature, invariably manifests marvellous
capabilities for digestion; and, on the other hand, the man who has
dined to his own entire satisfaction, if solicited in the nick of time,
will frequently evince an open-handed generosity, to which his more
matutine emotions would have been strangers. But--to reverse the
picture--any interruption to the near prospect of a “copious dinner” is
at all times inimical to charity; while repletion, we know, occasionally
reveals such unamiable dispositions as could not have been detected by
the most jealous scrutiny at an earlier period of the day. Nations are
but hives of individuals. We understand, therefore, the noble lord to
mean, that all the history of all the thousand races of the globe
concurrently teaches us that every great event, social or political,
domestic or foreign, involving their national weal or woe, has been
harbingered or commemorated by a “copious dinner.” Many familiar
instances of this profound truth--some of very recent date--crowd into
our recollection. But we cannot help suspecting a deeper meaning to be
inherent in the enunciation of this “great fact.” Copious dinners are,
as it strikes us, here covertly represented as the means of effecting
the most extensive ameliorations. To dine is insinuated to be the first
step on the highway to improvement. In the consequences which flow from
dining copiously, what is beneficial is evidently stated to preponderate
over what is hurtful, the qualifying “sometimes” being only attached to
the latter. In this respect, dinners seem to differ from men, that the
evil is more frequently “interred with their bones,” while the “good
they do lives after them.” This is, assuredly ringing a dinner-bell
incessantly to the whole universe. We have ourselves, not half an hour
ago, paid our quota for participating within the last week in
congratulatory festivities to two eminent public characters. The
overwhelming recurrence, in truth, of these entertainments, drains us
annually of a handsome income; and, reading as we do daily in the
newspapers, how every grocer, on changing his shop round the corner, and
every professor of dancing, on being driven by the surges of the
Utilitarian system up another flight of stairs, must, to felicitate or
soothe him, receive the tribute or consolation of a banquet and
demonstration, we hold up our hands in amazement at the opulence and
deglutition of Scotland.
What shall become of us, driven further onwards still, by the impetus of
the ‘Gastronomic Regenerator,’ we dare not fortell. The whole year may
be a circle of public feasts; and our institutions gradually, although
with no small velocity, relapse into the common table of Sparta. But
never, whispers Soyer, into the black broth of Lycurgus. And so he
ensnares us into the recognition of another fundamental principle, that
the simplicity of Laconian fare might be admirably appropriate for
infant republics and penniless helots, but can afford no subsistence to
an overgrown empire, and the possessors of the wealth of the world! Thus
cookery marks, dates, and authenticates the refinement of mankind. The
savage cuts his warm slice from the haunches of the living animal, and
swallows it reeking from the kitchen of nature. The civilized European,
revolting from the dreadful repast, burns, and boils, and stews, and
roasts his food into an external configuration, colour, and substance,
as different from its original condition as the mummy of Cheops differs
from the Cheops who watched, with an imperial dilatation of his brow,
the aspiring immortality of the pyramids. Both, in acting so
differently, are the slaves and the types of the circumstances of their
position. The functions in the frames of both are the same; but these
functions curiously follow the discipline of the social situation which
directs and regulates their development. The economy of the kitchen is
only a counterpart, in its simplicity or complication, its rudeness or
luxury, of the economy of the state. The subjects of patriarchs and
despots may eat uncooked horses with relish and nourishment. The
denizens of a political system whose every motion is regulated by an
intricate machinery, in which the teeth of all the myriad wheels in
motion are indented with inextricable multiplicity of confusion into
each other, perish under any nurture which is not as intricate, complex,
artificial, and confused. What a noble and comprehensive science is this
Gastronomy!
“Are you not also,” says the philosophic Soyer, in the same interesting
dialogue, “of opinion with me, my lord, that nothing better disposes the
mind of man to amity in thought and deed, than a dinner which has been
knowingly selected, and artistically served?” The answer is most
pregnant. “It is my thinking so,” replies Lord M. H., “which has always
made me say that a good cook is as useful as a wise minister.” Behold to
what an altitude we are carried! The loaves and fishes in the hands of
the Whigs, and Soyer at the Reform Club to dress them! Let us banish
melancholy, and drive away dull care. The bellicose propensities of a
foreign secretary are happily innocuous. The rumours of war pass by us
like the idle wind which we regard not. Protocols and treaties, notes
and representations, are henceforth disowned by diplomacy. The figure of
Britannia, with a stewpan for her helmet, and a spit for a spear,
leaning in statuesque repose on a folio copy of ‘The Gastronomic
Regenerator,’
“Surveys mankind from China to Peru;”
and with an unruffled ocean at her feet, and a cloudless sky overhead,
smiles on the countless millions of the children of earth, chatting
fraternally together at the round table of universal peace. Bright will
be the morning of the day which sees the impress of such an image on our
currency. Of course, it will be understood that we are entirely of the
same mind, abstractly, as M. Soyer and Lord M. H. The _maître de
cuisine_ appears to us unquestionably to be one of the most important
functionaries belonging to an embassy. Peace or war, which it is
scarcely necessary to interpret as the happiness or the misery of two
great countries, may depend upon a headache. Now, if it were possible,
in any case, to trace the bilious uneasiness which may have perverted
pacific intentions into hostile designs, to the unskilful or careless
performance of his momentous duties by the cook-legate, no punishment
could too cruelly expiate such a blunder. We should be inclined to
propose that the brother artist who most adroitly put the delinquent to
torture, should be his successor, holding office under a similar tenure.
It may be matter of controversy, however, at once whether such a system
would work well, and whether it is agreeable to the prevalence of those
kindly feelings which it is the object of M. Soyer, and every other good
cook or wise statesman, to promulgate throughout the human family. The
publication of ‘The Gastronomic Regenerator’ inspires us with better
hopes. The tyro of the dripping-pan will be no more entitled to screen
himself behind his imperfect science or neglected education, than the
unlettered criminal to plead his ignorance of the alphabet as a
justification of his ignorance of the statute law whose enactments send
him to Botany Bay. The rudiments and the mysteries--the elementary
axioms and most recondite problems--of his lofty vocation are unrolled
before him in legible and intelligible characters. The skill which is
the offspring of practice, must be attained by his opportunities and his
industry. And if
“Fame is the spur which the clear spirit doth raise,”
it might, we trust, satiate the most ravenous appetite which ever gnawed
the bowels even of a cook, not merely to secure the tranquillity of the
universe, but to save his native land the expense of armies and fleets,
and turn the currents of gold, absorbed by taxation, into the more
congenial channel of gastronomical enterprise. The majestic and
far-spreading oak springs out of the humble acorn. In future ages the
acute historian will demonstrate how the “copious dinner” which cemented
the bonds of eternal alliance between vast and consolidated empires,
whose people were clothed in purple and fine linen, lived in habitations
decorated with every tasteful and gorgeous variety which caprice could
suggest and affluence procure, and mingled the physical indolence of
Sybaris with the intellectual activity of Athens, was but the ripe fruit
legitimately matured from the simple bud of the calumet of peace, which
sealed a hollow truce among the roving and puny bands of the naked,
cityless, and untutored Indian. So, once more, the perfectibility of
cookery indicates the perfectibility of society.
The gallantry of Soyer is as conspicuous as his historical and political
philosophy. He would not profusely “scatter plenty o’er a smiling land”
solely for the gratification of his own sex. The sun shines on woman as
on man; and when the sun will not shine, a woman’s eye supplies all the
light we need. The sagacious Regenerator refuses to restrict to the
lordly moiety of mankind a monopoly of his beams, feeling that, when the
pressure of mortal necessity sinks his head, fairer hands than those of
the statesman or the warrior, the ecclesiastic or the lawyer, are likely
to be the conservators of his reputation. “Allow me,” he remarks, “to
suggest to your lordship, that a meeting for practical gastronomical
purposes, _where there are no ladies_, is in my eyes a garden without
flowers, a sea without waves, an experimental squadron without sails.”
“Without the smile from partial beauty won,
Say what were man?--a world without a sun!”
The harrowing picture of desolation, from the pen of M. Soyer, may be
equalled, but cannot be surpassed, by a line here and there in Byron’s
‘Darkness.’ The sentiment, at the same time, sounds oddly, as it issues
from the penetralia of a multitudinous club. Our notion has hitherto
been, that a club was an invention of which a principal object was to
prove that female society was far from being indispensable to man, and
that all the joys of domesticity might be tasted in a state of
single-blessedness beyond the precincts of home for a small annual
payment. A thorough-going club-man would very soon drive a coach and
four through the Regenerator’s polite eloquence. For instance, a garden
without flowers has so much the more room for the growth of celery,
asparagus, artichokes, and the like. There could not possibly be a
greater convenience than the evaporation or disappearance of the waters
of the ocean; because we should then have railways everywhere, and no
nausea. Sails, likewise, are not requisite now-a-days for ships; on the
contrary, steam-vessels are so evidently superior, that the sail-maker
may as well shut up his shop. The flowers of a garden are an
incumbrance--the waves of the sea are an impediment--the sails of a ship
are a superfluity. Garden, sea, and ship would be better wanting
flowers, waves, and sails. On the same principles a club is preferable
to a family fireside, and the lot of a bachelor to the fate of a
Benedict. M. Soyer, speaking _ex cathedrâ_ from the kitchen of the
Reform Club, would find it no easy matter to parry the cogency of this
reasoning. He forgets, apparently, that he bares his breast to a most
formidable attack. What right have MEN to be cooks? What hypocrisy it is
to regret that women cannot eat those dinners which women alone are
entitled, according to the laws of nature and the usages of Britain, to
dress! Be just before you affect to be generous! Surrender the place,
and the privileges, and the immunities, which are the heritage and
birthright of the petticoat! Hercules with a distaff was bad enough; but
where, in the vagaries and metamorphoses of heathen mythology, do you
read of Hercules with a dishclout? What would the moon say, should the
sun insist on blazing away all night as well as all day? Your
comparisons are full of poetry and humbug. A kitchen without a female
cook--it is like a flowerless garden, a waveless sea, a sailless ship. A
kitchen with a male cook--is a monster which natural history rejects,
and good feeling abhors. The rights of women are scarcely best
vindicated by him who usurps the most precious of them. There will be
time to complain of their absence from the scene, when, by a proper
self-ostracism, you leave free for them the stage which it becomes them
to occupy. These are knotty matters, M. Soyer, for digestion. With so
pretty a quarrel we shall not interfere, having a wholesome respect for
an Amazonian enemy who can stand fire like salamanders. To be candid, we
are puzzled by the sprightliness of our own fancy, and do not very
distinctly comprehend how we have managed to involve the Regenerator,
whose thoughts were bent on the pale and slim sylphs of the boudoir, in
a squabble with the rubicund and rotund vestals who watch the
inextinguishable flames of THE GREAT HEARTH.
This marvellous dialogue, from which we have taken with our finger and
thumb a tit-bit here and there, might be the text for inexhaustible
annotation. It occupied no more than two pages; but, as Gibbon has said
of Tacitus, “they are the pages of Soyer.” Every topic within the range
of human knowledge is touched, by direct exposition or collateral
allusion. The metaphysician and the theologian, the physiologist and the
moralist, are all challenged to investigate its dogmas, which, let us
forewarn them, are so curtly, positively, and oracularly propounded, as,
if orthodox, to need no commentary; and if heterodox, to demand
accumulated mountains of controversy to overwhelm them. For he, we
believe, can hardly be deemed a mean opponent, unworthy of a foeman’s
steel-pen, who has at his fingers’ ends “Mullets à la Montesquieu,”
“Fillets of Haddock à la St. Paul,” “Saddle of Mutton à la Mirabeau,”
“Ribs of Beef à la Bolingbroke,” “Pouding Soufflé à la Mephistophéles,”
“Woodcock à la Staël,” and “Filets de Bœuf farcis à la Dr. Johnson.”
The constitution of English cookery is precisely similar to the
constitution of the English language. Both were prophetically sketched
by Herodotus in his description of the army of Xerxes, which gathered
its numbers, and strength, and beauty from “all the quarters in the
shipman’s card.” That imperishable mass of noble words--that glorious
tongue in which Soyer has prudently written ‘The Gastronomic
Regenerator,’ is in itself an unequalled specimen of felicitous cookery.
The dishes which furnished the most recherché dinner Soyer ever dressed,
the “Dîner Lucullusian à la Sampayo,” being resolved into the chaos
whence they arose in faultless proportions and resistless grace, would
not disclose elements and ingredients more heterogeneous, remote, and
altered from their primal nature, than those which go to the composition
of the few sentences in which he tells us of this resuscitation of the
cœna of Petronius. A thousand years and a thousand accidents, the
deepest erudition and the keenest ingenuity, the most delicate wit and
most outrageous folly, have been co-operating in the manufacture of the
extraordinary vocabulary which has enabled the Regenerator himself to
concoct the following unparalleled receipt for “The Celestial and
Terrestrial Cream of Great Britain.” (See p. 719.)
Half a century hence, when the simmering over the roseate fire is
silent, may we, with M. Soyer, be present to gaze on the happy
consummation of the conceptions of his transcendent imagination!
The Regenerator is too conversant with universal history not to know
that his book, in crossing the Tweed northwards, approaches a people
more familiar with its fundamental principles than any other inhabitants
of these Fortunate Isles. England, for anything we care, may deserve the
opprobrious title of perfidious Albion. Scotland--(“Stands Scotland
where it did?”)--was ever the firm friend of France. Ages ago, when our
southern cousins were incessantly fighting, we were constantly dining,
with the French. Our royal and noblest families were mingled by the
dearest ties with the purest and proudest blood of the adopted land of
Mary. For centuries uninterruptedly was maintained an interchange of
every gentle courtesy, and every friendly succour; and when the
broadsword was not needed to gleam in the front ranks of Gallic
chivalry, the dirk never failed to emit the first flash in the
onslaughts of Gallic hospitality. The Soyers of those times--dim
precursors of the Regenerator--did not disdain to alight on our hungry
shores, and leave monuments of their beneficence, which are grateful to
this hour in the nostrils and to the palate of prince and peasant. Nay,
we shrewdly conjecture that some time-honoured secrets still dwell with
us, of which the memory has long since perished in their birthplace.
Boastful we may not suffer ourselves to be. But if M. Soyer ever heard
of, or dressed, or tasted precisely as we have dressed and tasted, what
is known to us and a very limited circle of acquaintances as
“Lamb-toasty,” we shall start instantly from the penultimate habitation
of Ultima Thule, commonly known as John O’Groat’s House, expressly to
test his veracity, and gratify our voracity. Perhaps he may think it
would not be too polite in us to transmit him the receipt. Not for a
wilderness of Regenerators! Could we unfold to him the awful legend in
connexion with it, of which we are almost the exclusive depositaries,
the cap so lightly lying on his brow would be projected upwards to the
roof by the instantaneous starting of his hair. The Last Minstrel
himself, to whom it was narrated, shook his head when he heard it, and
was never known to allude to it again; in reference to which
circumstance, all that the bitterest malice could insinuate was, that if
the story had been worth remembering, he was not likely to have
forgotten it. “One December midnight, a shriek”--is probably as far as
we can now venture to proceed. There are some descendants of the
parties, whose feelings, even after the lapse of five hundred years,
which is but as yesterday in a Highlander’s genealogy, we are bound to
respect. In other five hundred years, we shall, with more safety to
ourselves, let them “sup full of horrors.”
‘The Gastronomic Regenerator’ reminds us of no book so much as the
Despatches of Arthur Duke of Wellington. The orders of Soyer emanate
from a man with a clear, cool, determined mind--possessing a complete
mastery of his weapons and materials, and prompt to make them available
for meeting every contingency--singularly fertile in conceiving, and
fortunate without a check in executing, sudden, rapid, and difficult
combinations--overlooking nothing with his eagle eye, and, by the
powerful felicity of his resources, making the most of everything--matchless
in his “Hors-d’œuvres”--unassailable in his “Removes”--impregnable in
his “Pièces de résistance”--and unconquerable with his “Flanks.” His
directions are lucid, precise, brief, and unmistakable. There is not a
word in them superfluous--or off the matter immediately on hand--or not
directly to the point. They are not the dreams of a visionary theorist
and enthusiast, but the hard, solid, real results of the vast experience
of a tried veteran, who has personally superintended or executed all the
operations of which he writes. It may be matter of dispute whether
Wellington or Soyer acquired their knowledge in the face of the hotter
fire. They are both great Chiefs--whose mental and intellectual
faculties have a wonderful similarity--and whose sayings and doings are
characterized by an astonishing resemblance in nerve, perspicuity,
vigour, and success. In one respect M. Soyer has an advantage over his
illustrious contemporary. His Despatches are addressed to an army which
as far outnumbers any force ever commanded or handled by the Hero of
Waterloo, as the stars in the blue empyrean exceed the gas-lamps of
London--an army which, instead of diminishing under any circumstances,
evinces a tendency, we fear, of steadily swelling its ranks year by
year, and day by day--a standing army, which the strong band of the most
jealous republicanism cannot suppress, and which the realization of the
bright chimera of universal peace will fail to disband. Before many
months are gone, thousands and tens of thousands will be marching and
countermarching, cutting and skewering, broiling and freezing, in blind
obedience to the commands of the Regenerator. “Peace hath her victories
no less than those of war.” But it is not to be forgotten that if the
sword of Wellington had not restored and confirmed the tranquillity of
the world, the carving-knife of Soyer might not have been so bright.
The confidence of Soyer in his own handiwork is not the arrogant
presumption of vanity, but the calm self-reliance of genius. There is a
deal of good sense in the paragraph which we now quote. (See p. xl.)
It seems a childish remark to make, that all salts do not coincide in
their saltness, nor sugars in their sweetness. The principle, however,
which the observation contains within it, is anything but childish. It
implies that, supposing the accuracy of a Soyer to be nearly infallible,
the faith in his instructions must never be so implicit as to supersede
the testimony of one’s own senses, and the admonitions of one’s own
judgment. It is with the most poignant recollections that we acknowledge
the justice of the Regenerator’s caution on this head. We once, with a
friend who shared our martyrdom, tried to make onion soup in exact
conformity with what was set down in an Oracle of Cookery, which a foul
mischance had placed across our path. With unerring but unreflecting
fidelity, we filled, and mixed, and stirred, and watched the fatal
caldron. The result was to the eye inexpressibly alarming. A thick oily
fluid, repulsive in colour, but infinitely more so in smell, fell with a
flabby, heavy, lazy stream into the soup-plate. Having swallowed, with a
Laocoonic contortion of countenance, two or three mouthfuls, our
individual eyes wandered stealthily towards our neighbour. Evidently we
were fellow-sufferers; but pride, which has occasioned so many
lamentable catastrophes, made us both dumb and obdurate in our agony.
Slowly and sadly, at lengthened intervals, the spoon, with its
abominable freight, continued to make silent voyages from the platters
to our lips. How long we made fools of ourselves it is not necessary to
calculate. Suddenly, by a simultaneous impulse, the two windows of the
room favoured the headlong exit of two wretches whose accumulated
grievances were heavier than they could endure. Hours rolled away, while
the beautiful face of Winander mere looked as ugly as Styx, as we
writhed along its banks, more miserably moaning than the hopeless beggar
who sighed for the propitiatory obolus to Charon. And from that
irrevocable hour we have abandoned onions to the heroines of tragedy.
Fools, in spite of all warning, are taught by such a process as that to
which we submitted. Wise men take a hint.
“Nature, says I to myself”--Soyer is speaking--“compels us to dine more
or less once a-day.” The average which oscillates between the “more” and
the “less,” it requires considerable dexterity to catch. Having read six
hundred pages and fourteen hundred receipts, the question is, where are
we to begin? Our helplessness is confessed. Is it possible the
Regenerator is, after all, more tantalizing than the Barmecide? No--here
is the very aid we desiderate. Our readers shall judge of a “Dinner
Party at Home.” (See p. 636.)
We shall be exceedingly curions to hear how many hundred parties of
eight persons, upon reading this bill of fare in our pages, will,
without loss of time, congregate in order to do it substantial honour.
Such a clattering of brass and brandishing of steel may strike a new
government as symptomatical or preparatory of a popular rising. We may
therefore reassure them with the information, that those who sit down
with M. Soyer, will have little thought of rising for a long time
afterwards.
We have introduced ‘The Gastronomic Regenerator’ to public notice in
that strain which its external appearance, its title, its scheme, and
its contents, demand and justify. But we must not, even good-humouredly,
mislead those for whose use its publication is principally intended. To
all intents and purposes M. Soyer’s work is strictly and most
intelligibly practical. It is as full of matter as an egg is full of
meat; and the household which would travel through its multitudinous
lessons must be as full of meat as the Regenerator is full of matter.
The humblest, as well as the wealthiest kitchen economy, is considered
and instructed; nor will the three hundred receipts at the conclusion of
the volume, which are more peculiarly applicable to the “Kitchen at
Home,” be, probably, the portion of the book least agreeable and
valuable to the general community. For example, just before shaking
hands with him, let us listen to M. Soyer, beginning admirably to
discourse of the “Choosing and Roasting of plain Joints.” (See p. 637.)
How full of milky kindness is his language, still breathing the spirit
of that predominant idea--the tranquillization of the universe by
“copious dinners!” He has given up “basting” with success. Men may as
well give up basting one another. Nobody will envy the Regenerator the
bloodless fillets worthily encircling his forehead, should the
aspirations of his benevolent soul in his lifetime assume any tangible
shape. But if a more distant futurity is destined to witness the lofty
triumph, he may yet depart in the confidence of its occurrence. The most
precious fruits ripen the most slowly. The sun itself does not burst at
once into meridian splendour. Gradually breaks the morning; and the
mellow light glides noiselessly along, tinging mountain, forest, and the
city spire, till a stealthy possession seems to be taken of the whole
upper surface of creation, and the mighty monarch at last uprises on a
world prepared to expect, to hail, and to reverence his perfect and
unclouded majesty.
THE MORNING POST.
_Cream of Egypt l’Ibrahim Pacha._ The novelty of the bill of fare which
appeared in our columns of Saturday last relating to the banquet given
to his Highness Ibrahim Pacha, by the members of the Reform Club, the
day previous, having since been the topic of general conversation, our
readers will perhaps feel interested in the description of two of the
most novel and original dishes served on that occasion. The first,
entitled “Cream of Egypt à l’Ibrahim Pacha,” and composed expressly for
the occasion by M. Soyer, the _chef de cuisine_ of the club, was the
admiration of the whole company, and especially so of the Pacha, who as
soon as it was placed before him, quickly perceived the honour intended
to be conferred upon him. This dish consisted of a pyramid about two
feet and a half high, made of light meringue cake, in imitation of solid
stones, surrounded with immense grapes and other fruits, but
representing only the four angles of the pyramid through sheets of waved
sugar, to show, to the greatest advantage, an elegant cream _à
l’ananas_, on the top of which was resting a highly-finished portrait of
the illustrious stranger’s father, Mehemet Ali, carefully drawn on a
round-shaped satin _carton_, the exact size of the top of the cream. The
portrait was immediately observed by his Highness, who carefully took it
up, and, after showing it to several of his suite, placed it in his
bosom. What was his Highness’s astonishment, however, on again looking
at the spot, to observe in the cream, as under a glass, a
highly-finished portrait of himself, surrounded by a very
carefully-executed frame. M. Soyer, having been sent for by the party,
was highly complimented by his Highness, through his interpreter. The
Pacha desired to know where and how he could procure such a likeness of
his father, and how his own was so correctly drawn in the cream? “Please
tell his Highness,” says M. Soyer to the interpreter, “that both were
executed from the original sketches drawn by our celebrated artist
Horace Vernet, whilst in Alexandria. The portrait in the cream is drawn
on wafer-paper, which being placed on the damp jelly representing the
glass, dissolves, and nothing remains of the wafer-paper but the
appearance of the portrait painted in light water-colours. The imitation
of the gilt frame is made with the eau de vie of Dantzic and gold water
mixed with the jelly, the gold leaf of which forms the frame.” After
having been thanked by the Pacha, the pyramidal cream of Egypt was
ordered to be shown to each guest by sliding it from one to the other
round the table.
Though everything was eatable in it, this magnificent dish was
respected, and remained untouched until the end of the banquet, though
everybody tried to partake of the fruit which surrounded it.
The next dish which much amused the company was the one entitled the
“_Gateau Britannique à l’amiral_,” being the representation of an old
man-of-war, bearing the English and Egyptian flags, drawn on rice-paper,
the ship being filled with ice _mousseuse aux pêche_. and loaded with
large strawberries, cherries, grapes, and bunches of currants. It was so
placed on the table that Commodore Napier had to help from this cargo
the illustrious stranger, who appeared much amused at the incident. The
moisture and liquor of the ice gradually melted and imbibed the carcase
of the vessel, which was made of a kind of delicate sponge cake. While
the gallant commodore was in the act of helping the remainder of the
ice, the ship gave way, and formed a complete wreck, which caused great
hilarity among the company who were close enough to witness the scene.
NEWSPAPERS, &c. IN WHICH M. SOYER’S WORK HAS BEEN NOTICED.
Athenæum.
Bell’s Life.
Blackwood’s Magazine.
Britannia.
Brussels Herald.
Builder.
Chambers’s Journal.
Colburn’s New Monthly.
Court Journal.
Courrier de l’Europe.
Douglas Jerrold.
English Gentleman.
Era.
Examiner.
Glasgow Constitutional.
Globe.
Guardian.
Hood’s Magazine.
Illustrated News.
John Bull.
Journal des Débats.
La Mode.
Dispatch.
Literary Gazette.
Liverpool Chronicle.
L’Observateur Français.
Morning Chronicle.
Morning Herald.
Morning Post.
Musical World.
Naval and Military Gazette.
Observer.
Petit Courrier des Dames.
Pictorial Times.
Punch.
Satirist.
Sharpe’s Magazine.
Spectator.
Sun.
Sunday Times.
Tablet.
Times.
Weekly Chronicle.
Windsor and Eton Journal
Atlas.
* * * * *
From ‘THE TIMES’ of the 19th FEBRUARY, 1847.
Third Edition.--Yes! a third edition of this truly national work now
lies before us. The public, as we shrewdly foresaw, have not failed to
appreciate the labour of its author. Alexis Soyer has received the
reward that sooner or later is bestowed upon the philanthropist and the
patriot. It may possibly be remembered that when the incomparable cook
of the Reform Club was overcome, to use his own words, with “a thrill of
horror,” by the request of several persons of distinction, “particularly
the ladies,” who urged him to publish a cookery book, he suddenly
recollected having been in “a most superb library,” where all at once
his attention was attracted by the 19th edition of a voluminous work,
which was supported on either side by the glories of a Milton and a
Shakspeare. When the Regenerator found courage to open the precious
volume, to his great disappointment he discovered “a receipt for ox-tail
soup.” “The terrifying effect produced upon me,” says Monsieur Soyer,
“by this succulent volume made me determine that my few ideas, whether
culinary or domestic, should never encumber a sanctuary which ought to
be entirely devoted to works worthy of a place in the temple of the
Muses.” Alas, how rash are human resolutions! How little, in the
obscurity of our spring-time, do we dream of the dazzling splendour that
awaits our coming summer! Every library, from the London to the British
Museum, from Brocket Hall to the Palace of the Tuileries, has welcomed
the Regenerator to its choicest shelf, and edition follows edition with
a rapidity which, in the case of so ponderous a work, is positively
marvellous. Like Byron, M. Soyer finds himself famous in a morning. We
do not grudge him his greatness, but we confess we do envy the
succeeding generations, who, destined to be the offspring of men that
have been taught by Soyer to eat--not to appease hunger, but to elevate
the soul,--will have acquired a delight in existence for which their
grosser grandfathers were physically unfit. We welcome with all respect
the third appearance of this true child of civilization. We can do no
more.
* * * * *
ARNEY’S PATENT JELLY & BLANC MANGE POWDERS.
For the last eighteen months, I have invariably used the above
production, and must acknowledge that these Powders combine all the
requisites generally expected in a new invention. It is well known that
cooks, in the country in particular, are very often disappointed in
obtaining calf’s feet, and it also happens at times that they do not
always succeed in producing a clear and fine jelly, although good in
taste, not pleasing to the sight; the above Powders obviate all
disappointments. They can be in store, and used when required; then is
an economy in the cost, economy of time, and a certainty of having a
brilliant jelly at any time.--A. SOYER.
As these Powders are prepared with the very best material, they are
equal to calf’s feet; and although already flavoured, can be altered
according to taste.
Sold at 1s. per Packet, or 2s. per Bottle, at 33, Frith Street, Soho Square;
and at ARNEY’s Factory, Willow Mills, Mitcham Common, Surrey.
_One Packet at 1s. will make a Jelly of one pint and a half; and a
Bottle at 2s. three pints._
* * * * *
MAKEPEACE’S CULINARY HERBS.
I feel justified, from experience, in very strongly recommending
“MAKEPEACE’S CULINARY HERBS”, which are admirably prepared for kitchen
purposes, and of inestimable value for sea voyages. Their convenience
and utility are decidedly of the greatest advantage in a well-organised
kitchen; the cook having at all seasons of the year every species of
herb used in cookery, which hitherto could only be partially obtained.
The flavour is kept in high perfection; and the appearance of these
herbs are really pleasing to the sight. Amongst the great variety of
them, parsley, sage, tarragon, and winter savoy are particularly useful;
the onion, garlic, and eschalot powders, when sprinkled over hot joints,
steaks, or chops, impart a most delicious flavour to it. The veal and
pork stuffing are very fine, and save an immense deal of trouble. In
fact, I may say that no exception can be made, as all these excellent
herbs are prepared, regardless of trouble and expense, in a most careful
and scientific manner; which is a great credit to the patience of the
inventor, and a benefit to society.--A. SOYER.
Sold in neat Boxes, sorted at 1_s._ and 2_s._
per Bottle, at 33, Frith Street, Soho Square
and at MAKEPEACE’S Factory, Mitcham, Surrey.
* * * * *
SOYER’S MODEL KITCHEN.
_From the Times, Sept. 28, 1847._
“To the Editor of the Times.
“SIR,--The great interest you manifested in February last, when I made
known my intention of erecting by subscription a model kitchen for the
poor, was handsomely responded to by the public, and the scheme being
considered by Government likely to be (at that distressing period) of
immense advantage for Ireland, I was requested to lay my plans before
the Lords of the Treasury, and being approved of, I willingly accepted
the invitation of erecting my model kitchen in Dublin, instead of
London, as I at first intended.
“Having successfully proved that the system was of paramount importance,
both as regards the large quantity of superior food that could be
produced, and the immense saving that could be effected, the Government
then purchased my model kitchen, and the South Union Relief Committee of
Dublin have had the use of it ever since the 24th of April.
“As I am certain, Sir, that my subscribers and the public will feel
interested in the result of my plan, the following brief statement will,
I hope, awaken all local boards (if at all anxious), and adopt a system
which must save, on a very moderate calculation, at least 50 per cent.
at any period of either scarcity or plenty.
“I leave to those who are better acquainted than I am with statistics
what would be the amount saved to the ratepayers all through the
country.
“From the opening of my model kitchen by me, on the 6th of April last,
to the 24th, the number of rations of 2½ lb. each was 40,000
“From the 26th of April to the 22d of May, by the South Union Relief
Committee, the number of rations, averaging 12,600 per day, was 300,000
“From the 24th of May to the 31st of July, also by the South Union
Relief Committee, the number of rations per day varying from 1,750
to 23,640, was 729,279
“From the 2d of August to the 14th, averaging 6,500 a-day, was 78,000
“Making 2,868,179 lb. of food, and of rations 1,147,279
“To supply that number of rations by the old plan of preparing food in
different depôts, would have cost, at 3d. per ration (which is rather
under the average), the sum of £15,536
“But, according to my plan of preparing food with my model kitchen, as
it was estimated in a report made to the Relief Committee by its
Secretary, on the 23d of April last, the cost of each ration, including
coals, expenses of house, carriage, labour, &c. came to 1⅜_d._, making
altogether, for 2,863,197 lb. of solid food, a sum of 7,788
“Effecting a saving in favour of the South Union Committee of 50 per
cent., or a sum of £7,768
“In support of the above statement, I beg to observe that the ratepayers
of the North Union of Dublin have paid 3_s._ 4_d._ in the pound, whilst
those of the South Union only paid 1s. This result, Sir, speaks volumes
in favour of my system. In addition to the model kitchen, Messrs. Brown
& Co., of Great Suffolk Street, Borough, have erected one of their
patent steam-plate ovens, which can bake on an average 1,000 loaves of 4
lb each every 12 hours with three bushels of coke. The 1,000 loaves
require 11 sacks of flour, consequently, 22 sacks can be worked in 24
hours, 132 sacks per week, at about 1_d._ per sack for fuel. What with
the savings in baking, and also the new process of making bread, I have
introduced, I calculate that full 25 per cent. can be saved on the cost
of bread at all times.
“Therefore, admitting that the model kitchen, the new oven, and the new
bread could only save 35 or 40 per cent. to the ratepayers, the system
cannot be otherwise than particularly interesting to the whole
community.
“I am, Sir, yours most respectfully,
“A. SOYER.
“REFORM CLUB, _Sept. 23_.”
* * * * *
Under the Patronage of the Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of London.
SOYER’S PAROCHIAL MODEL KITCHEN,
FOR THE
POOR WEAVERS OF SPITALFIELDS.
_From the Times of February 21._
“SIR--Having lately been introduced by several gentlemen of
distinction to the Reverend Joseph Brown, the benevolent pastor of
Saint Matthias, Spitalfields, with the view of relieving, if
possible, at a trifling expense, the sufferings of that industrious
but distressed class of society, the Weavers of Spitalfields; and
having, with that gentleman, visited several of their abodes, we
found, in many of the houses, five or six in a small room, entirely
deprived of the common necessaries of life--no food, no fire, and
hardly any garment to cover their persons, and that during the late
severe frost. In one of the attics we visited we inquired of a
woman how they subsisted. Her husband, she said, had no employment
during the last four months, and that they merely lived on what he
could get by begging in the streets; she added, that she and her
children had not tasted a bit of food for twenty-four hours, the
last of which consisted of apples partly decayed, and bits of bread
given to her husband, which food we may consider, if even
plentiful, to be pernicious to health. The only piece of furniture
in that gloomy abode of misery was the weaving machine, now at
rest, and which, in time of prosperity, was used to provide food,
and made, if not a wealthy, at least a happy home for those now
wretched and destitute families, and the scientific production of
which has often, and even now, adorns the persons of thousands of
the aristocracy and gentry of the country.
“I am quite convinced, Sir, that the wearers of those luxuries
possess at all times the most charitable feelings towards their
fellow-creatures in distress; and when they are made aware, through
the medium of your powerful journal, of the facts of the present
lamentable position of those who have by their industry so often
gratified their sights and wishes, none of them will, I am certain,
refuse a small token of charity towards the relief of those
unfortunate martyrs of industry, whose poverty no one can blame,
but whom everybody must pity. After having witnessed such
distressing scenes, I immediately proposed that my Subscription
Kitchen for the Poor, which was being made at Messrs. Bramah and
Prestige’s factory, should be erected, without any loss of time, in
the most populous district of Spitalfields, where there are no less
than 10,000 poor people in one parish, and hardly any wealthy
families among them to give them relief.
“I am happy to inform you, Sir, that my first experiment, made last
Saturday, has been most successful, having been able to make a most
excellent peas panada and meat soup in less than one hour and a
half, and that at a very moderate expense--the quickness and saving
of which are partly owing to the contrivance of my new steam
apparatus, and which food was distributed, without any confusion,
in less than twenty minutes, to about THREE HUNDRED AND FIFTY
children, who were selected for the occasion from the different
schools, the remainder of the food, with bread, being given away to
many poor families in the neighbourhood.
“The kitchen will remain open daily, and nothing will be given away
except to those who are proved to be quite destitute; a quart of
food or soup, and a quarter of a pound of bread, will be given for
one penny.
“All information respecting the issuing of tickets and receiving of
subscriptions will be made known by advertisements.
“I am aware that every nobleman, gentleman, and tradesman have to
support their own poor, and therefore propose that not more than a
guinea should be received from any one as a subscription; but from
6_d._ to the above sum will be most thankfully received, and
disposed of with the greatest economy.
“I beg to observe, that any of the subscribers who should wish to
keep their names private, will be pleased to make a private mark,
that they may see it correctly entered in a catalogue, which will
be published monthly, with an account of all the subscriptions
received, expenses incurred, the quantity of ingredients consumed,
with a correct list of the poor relieved.
“I trust, under all these circumstances, you will be good enough to
give a place to this letter in your journal.
“With the highest consideration,
“I am, Sir, your most obliged,
“A. SOYER.
“REFORM CLUB, _Feb. 17_.”
* * * * *
SOYER’S CULINARY INNOVATION.
MINIATURE KITCHEN FOR THE NAVY.
BY AN OBSERVER.
The indefatigable Gastronomic Regenerator, Mons. Soyer, whose mind is
always catering for the comfort and the taste of all classes of society,
has not only given us a most useful work on Cookery, containing
thousands of excellent receipts, but also various plans for the
construction of kitchens, such as the matchless Kitchen of the Reform
Club, the Kitchen of the Wealthy, his Kitchen at Home, the Bachelor’s,
and the Cottage Kitchen.
But when the late famine took place in Ireland, his attention was
quickly drawn to the shortest and most economical means of relieving a
vast number of the destitute, and that, by the erection of a Model
Kitchen on a plan entirely new, and which proved of the utmost
importance in Dublin, both as regards superiority of wholesome food, and
its immense saving in preparation, which can be tested daily by rich and
poor in merely consulting that excellent sixpenny little book, the ‘Poor
Man’s Regenerator,’ containing twenty-three invaluable receipts for the
working class and the poor.
What leads us to the above introductory remarks is, that for a little
while we find him abandon the inhabitants of _terra firma_ for the wide
ocean, to show us that he can devote also a portion of his time and
exertion to the comfort of seafaring life in the fitting up of a
commodious Miniature Kitchen on board every-sized vessel laying claim to
real improvement.
Lately the beautiful and splendid steam-ship the Guadalquiver, built at
Liverpool, left that wealthy mercantile town for the Spanish Main with a
kitchen such as never was before attempted to be erected.
To give our readers an idea of the completeness of this Marine Miniature
Kitchen, they will be surprised when we say that in a confined space of
seventeen feet long and eight wide, a range with vertical bars,
smoke-jack, screen, spits and dripping pan are erected, where roasting
may be done in great perfection: next is a bain-marie, for keeping soups
and sauces very hot, without the danger of burning or of being upset in
rough weather: three charcoal stoves, hot plate, gridiron; and a steam
boiler for dressing vegetables, and even meat or fish, is found to be a
very great convenience. There is also a good oven for baking bread,
pastry, and biscuits, and a hot closet above; a kitchen table, with
drawers and sliding shelves, under which is a cupboard for preserves, a
pestle and mortar, vegetable and washing boxes; under the stove and hot
plate are two recesses for fuel; above the stoves are placed rows of
shelves, upon which blocks of wood are fixed for each saucepan; on the
edges of the shelves the _sauté pans_, covers, and ladles are suspended,
and secured with bands of India rubber to prevent the rattling: in fact
a complete ‘batterie de cuisine’ is at the disposal of the cook; and the
last but not the least ingenious design is a moveable balance grating,
with something new in its contrivance, as it prevents the upsetting of
any saucepans used upon it in stormy weather. Two perpendicular pieces
of iron of about fifteen inches are fixed into a circle, the size of the
charcoal stove, at the extreme points of the square, where pins of iron
are fixed to keep the circle in its place; between the two uprights is
the grating, supported by two rods on each side, finishing in a point,
and turning at the end like a hook, to go into the holes perforated at
the top of the uprights, thus acting like the compass, the saucepans are
thus always on a level; and by merely turning the circle to whatever
point is required, this balance grating will support its burthen over
the fire constantly on a level, despite the rolling of the vessel.
Outside, leading to the deck, are rows of hooks covered over to hang up
meat, game, and poultry. In fact, the whole of the fittings are so
contrived that they have the appearance of fixture.
This kitchen is also well ventilated and fire-proof, and in it a
_recherché_ dinner can easily be dressed for one hundred persons, being
the average number of passengers likely to be taken up by the
Guadalquiver on the coast of Cuba, in connexion with the railroad
constructed right through the Island.
For a kitchen in a vessel of less dimension, one steam pan, the hot
plate and oven would be sufficient, and only a few of the useful
articles mentioned would be required, thereby considerably diminishing
the expense, and then possess a kitchen very superior to those now
constructed.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] A very minute description and drawings of the kitchen and
apparatus will be found at the end of the Receipts devoted to the
Kitchen of the Wealthy.
[2] The mashed potatoes which are to be used for dishing up as
described throughout this work, are simply prepared as follows:--Plain
boil or steam six or eight large mealy potatoes; when well done, peel
and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little salt;
then with the prong of a fork whisk them till quite in purée; then add
two tablespoonfuls of milk, work up with a small wooden spoon till
forming a paste; then lay a small quantity on a clean cloth, roll it
to the circumference of a fourpenny or sixpenny piece, and form a
round with it in your dish according to the size of the entrée; alter
the proportion according to the size of the flanc or remove.
[3] The veal stock mentioned in the several receipts is made precisely
as the stock for white sauce.
[4] A culinary term.
[5] In France we have silver dishes on purpose for _au gratins_, in
which they are dressed and served to table, the gratin adhering to the
bottom of the dish.
[6] See Kitchen at Home.
[7] It would be advisable to have a mould purposely for borders of
this description two inches in height, half an inch in depth, and
eight inches in diameter, with a cylinder five inches in diameter;
these borders are by some always used instead of a border of mashed
potatoes, but I prefer the last-mentioned, being quicker made, the
entrées resting more steadily upon it, and, being laid thinly upon the
dishes, never interfering with any description of sauces.
[8] A cylinder copper mould is preferable to a plain one, but as
almost every kitchen has plain moulds, I describe this in preference.
[9] The flesh of the wild boar being rather difficult to obtain
in this country, the head being the only part considered worth
presenting, the flesh of the common pig may be used for the forcemeat
and interior, as well as the rind, which must be selected in pieces as
large as possible; a bottle of common port wine is an improvement in
the pickling.
[10] Some amateurs would prefer them stewed gently for eight hours,
but I consider they then lose half their flavour.
[11] If no mould, pat half a pound less butter in the paste and raise
the pie with your hands, making a bold ornament round and upon the top.
[12] The first time I served a salad of the above description after
inventing it was in a dinner which I dressed for some noblemen and
gentlemen who had made a wager as to which could send the best dinner,
myself or the artiste at a celebrated establishment in Paris, where
they had previously dined; my first course being full of novelty,
gained the approbation of the whole party, but the salad created
such an unexpected effect that I was sent for, and had the honour of
sitting at the table for an hour with them and over several rosades of
exquisite Laffitte; the salad was christened à la Soyer by General Sir
Alexander Duff, who presided over the noble party.
[13] For the description to make hot water paste for raised pies, see
pâté chaud (No. 618).
[14] Flan moulds are generally fluted, and about an inch and a half in
height.
[15] The only way to shape them properly is by taking a piece the
size of a walnut, and moulding it with your finger at the rim of the
stewpan; drop them upon a baking-sheet, and make them still more round
with the paste-brush in egging them over.
[16] In emptying the interior of this or any of the following cakes
for removes, care should be taken not to leave them either too thick
or too thin; if too thick it would not hold sufficient ice, and eat
very heavy, if the reverse it would be too delicate, and not hold
together in dishing up. About three quarters of an inch in most cases
would be the thickness required. Any of the Removes may be curtailed
in point of size, but the above would be sufficient for a dinner of
eighteen persons.
[17] These round paper cases are to be procured at Temple’s, Whitcomb
street, Belgrave square.
[18] To freeze quickly any description of ice the freezing-pot must
be well set, place it in the centre of the pail, which must be large
enough to give a space of four inches all round, break twelve pounds
of ice up small, which put round at the bottom six inches in depth,
over which put two pounds of salt, beat down tight with a rolling-pin,
then more ice, then salt, proceeding thus until within three inches
of the top of your freezing-pot, saltpetre mixed with the salt will
facilitate it in freezing.
[19] For this purpose I can recommend the stone bottles and apparatus
for preserving fruits invented by Mr. James Cooper, of No. 7, St.
John-street, Clerkenwell; I have used them upon several occasions
and for different descriptions of fruit, and have never met with any
system that so well preserved the freshness of the fruit, or which is
more simple in its operation.
[20] I consider too large a table to be as bad as too large a kitchen,
in which much time is lost in the cleaning, and more in running about
for articles required for use.
[21] The old fashioned triangular trivets seemed to have been made as
inconvenient as possible, being made only for one large stewpan to
stand over the fire, not leaving room for any smaller ones round.
[22] The maker of these gas stoves is Mr. Rikett, who constructs them
to perfection at a trifling expense according to their merit.
[23] Especially in France, where cookery was first cradled, and has
ever since been well nursed.
[24] Being a brown earthen pot, which costs about sixpence or a
shilling, and which with care would last twenty years; the more it is
used the better soup it makes.
[25] The receipts for paste being so simple in the other department of
this book, I shall, upon all occasions, refer my readers to them, (p.
478.)
[26] If you should have a little gravy, use it instead of water, if
not a piece of glaze added to half a pint of water would make a very
good gravy.
[27] It would be very easy to ascertain when done, by running a
packing-needle or sharp-pointed knife through, if tender it is done;
this remark also applies to any description of meat pies.
[28] Extracted from my “Délassements Culinaires,” lately published
by Jeffe, Burlington Arcade; a second edition of which will shortly
appear.
[29] To show plainly the interior of this dish, it has been drawn one
size larger than it is in reality. These dishes are only to be had by
applying to Mr. Soyer, of the _Reform Club_, or at Mr. George Smith’s,
No. 57, Conduit street, Regent street, he being the only manufacturer.
[30] “But though in his manner, none of her works has the least
subserviency of imitation, or the stiffness of copy.”--_Times._
[31] Gentleman’s Magazine.
[32] “La Cérès Anglaise.”
* * * * *
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
when add two tablespoonfuls=> then add two tablespoonfuls {pg 29}
two tablespoonfuls of liason=> two tablespoonfuls of liaison {pg 37 x 2}
when fill it up and your consommé=> then fill it up and your consommé
{pg 54}
have ready boiled a a quart=> have ready boiled a quart {pg 183}
have an ox tonge=> have an ox tongue {pg 210}
eight square dieces=> eight square pdieces {pg 402}
with which garnish the ballotins=> with which garnish the ballotins {pg
426}
Pocure ten fine heads => Procure ten fine heads {pg 451}
Brussels Sprouts sauté au buerre=> Brussels Sprouts sauté au beurre {pg
462}
cream served upon in was cut=> cream served upon in was cut {pg 483}
and a a little powdered cinnamon=> and a little powdered cinnamon {pg
497}
into a a round bowl=> into a round bowl {pg 525}
when completly but thinly=> when completely but thinly {pg 541}
a little powdered cinamon=> a little powdered cinnamon {pg 497}
see if coloured sufficently=> see if coloured sufficiently {pg 510}
cotelettes de mouton en suprise=> cotelettes de mouton en surprise {pg
555}
untill becoming very light=> until becoming very light {pg 564}
make a litttle white sauce=> make a little white sauce {pg 648}
but six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil=> put six tablespoonfuls of
salad-oil {pg 658}
with a little scraped horeradish=> with a little scraped horseradish {pg
660}
place upon you dish=> place upon your dish {pg 666}
*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The Gastronomic Regenerator: - a Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery, with - nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts suited to the income - of all Classes" ***
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