| By Author | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Title | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Language |
|
Download this book: [ ASCII ] Look for this book on Amazon Tweet |
Title: The Lady's Knitting-Book - Containing eighty clear and easy patterns of useful and - ornamental knitting
Author: Corbould, Elvina M.
Language: English
As this book started as an ASCII text book there are no pictures available.
*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The Lady's Knitting-Book - Containing eighty clear and easy patterns of useful and - ornamental knitting" ***
produced from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive)
THE LADY’S KNITTING-BOOK.
THE
LADY’S KNITTING-BOOK.
BY
E. M. C.
AUTHOR OF ‘THE LADY’S CROCHET-BOOK.’
CONTAINING EIGHTY CLEAR AND EASY PATTERNS
OF USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL
KNITTING.
Second Edition, revised and enlarged.
LONDON:
HATCHARDS, PICCADILLY.
1874.
LONDON
JOHN STRANGEWAYS, PRINTER,
Castle St. Leicester Sq.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Antimacassar 35
” Persian 36
” Lattice Pattern 52
Arrow Pattern in Stripes 49
Baby’s Boot, very pretty 20
” very easy pattern 24
” Berceaunette Cover 38
” Quilt, very pretty 39
” Jacket 59
” Hood 62
Bodice 57
Brioche Knitting 55
Cable Knitting 49
Canadian Cloud 47
Carriage Rug 36
Comforters, to cost 2s. 25
Couvrette, or Couvre-pied 35
Double Knitting 24
” with Four Pins 25
Explanations 9
Fancy Stitches 53
Fringe in Cotton 40
” Wool 41
Gaiter 60
General Remarks 10
Gentleman’s Waistcoat, medium size 27
” Waistcoat, larger or smaller 27
Hearth-Rug 39
Heel of a Stocking or Sock 11
Knee Cap 62
Lattice Pattern 52
Loop Knitting 40
Muffatee, Ermine 28
” Lady’s 28
” Gentleman’s, with Thumb 28
Night or Carriage Sock 26
Pence Jug, Etruscan shape 32
” long shape 33
” on two pins 34
Petticoat 41, 42
Purse 29, 30
Quilt 39
” in cotton, a common one 42
” Laurel-leaf Pattern 43
” Maltese Pattern 45
Raised Plait-knitting 36
Round Sofa Cushion 61
Rose-bud Pattern 47, 48
Shetland Shawl 32
Silk Stocking, Lady’s 15
” ” striped 13
” ” white evening 13
” ” winter 15
” Gentleman’s 14
” ” evening 16
Sock for Boy of Twelve 17
” ” another pattern 17
” ” of Fifteen 18
” for a Child of Two 15
” a Night or Carriage 26
” easy 17
” Gentleman’s evening, average size 14
” ” large size 19
” ” ribbed, small size 19
Stockings and Socks 9
Stocking, Gentleman’s Shooting 19
” ” Knickerbocker 16
” for a Girl of Fourteen 18
” for a Boy or Girl of Eight 19
To Decrease for the Toe, &c. 12
” for Instep 12
Vest, or Jersey 30
Waistcoat 27
INTRODUCTION.
In sending this little work before the public, I have tried to remedy
one fault which I have often heard complained of, namely, that
knitting-books generally give so many more stitches than are really
required. This is partly owing to the different qualities of wool used
by different knitters, and partly also, to a certain extent, whether
the worker knits loosely or tightly. The following directions are for
medium knitters. As knitting sometimes shrinks in the washing, I should
advise my readers to try and knit moderately loose. But, of course,
the principal thing is to have the same sized wool or silk as that for
which the directions are given; and this is especially important in
socks and stockings. I will therefore state that Charity wheeling is
the thickest and most harsh kind of yarn made; Scotch wheeling is a
trifle less coarse. Scotch fingering is the usual yarn sold for socks
and gentlemen’s stockings: it ought to be very strong, and to appear
about the same size as Berlin. If it looks finer (and some does) put
on more stitches than are given. For couvrettes, and things of that
kind, the size of the wool and pins is, of course, a matter of less
importance, as it does not signify whether the work is a trifle larger
or smaller than intended; but in stockings, a slight thing makes a good
deal of difference in the fit.
I have also endeavoured to explain everything at full length, so as to
enable inexperienced knitters to find out the patterns by themselves;
the cost of each article is put, whenever possible, at the head of the
pattern.
EXPLANATIONS.
‘To purl or pearl’ and ‘to seam’ mean the same thing; that is, to put
the wool round the right-hand needle. Thus: the wool hangs straight
down, it must be lifted and placed round the needle from right to left.
You must then insert the right-hand needle into the stitch, exactly the
opposite way as in ordinary knitting.
‘To decrease’ is simply to knit two stitches together. Another way is
to slip a stitch, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over it.
‘To take two together’ means to knit two together.
‘To increase,’ you must knit both into the lower part of the stitch,
and also into the stitch itself.
_Stockings and Socks._
The directions given for silk stockings are worked with Adams and Co.’s
silk, 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E. It is very good, and of
lovely colours. Patterns are sent free, and all orders can be sent by
post. Any uncommon shade can be dyed to order, provided it be not for
less than 1 lb. of silk.
The prices are as follow:—Imperial knitting-silk, the best quality, any
colour, 3s. per 2 oz. skein. Filoselle, any colour, 2s. per oz., or 3d.
per skein of 15 yards. Embroidery silk, 1s. 6d. per oz. Knitting-pins,
2d. per set of four. These knitting-silks are guaranteed fast colours,
and are beautifully bright and soft.
Those of my readers who prefer a coarser knitting-silk will be glad to
hear that Mr. Adams is now making some.
_General Remarks on Socks and Stockings._
For a lady’s stocking it is best to decrease once and increase three
times for the calf of the leg. For a gentleman’s this is unnecessary.
Most of these directions are for ribbed stockings, as they fit so much
better; but if preferred plain, of course the same number of stitches
is required.
You must always remember in ribbed stockings to carry on the ribs and
seam-stitches all down the back of the heel, until you begin to round
it. The ribs on the front of the foot must be continued straight on,
until within an inch of the decreasing for the toe.
The seam-stitch is made by knitting a certain stitch in two rounds and
pearling it in the third.
Before decreasing for the instep, do two or three plain rounds and then
begin.
The ‘flap,’ or heel before it is rounded, ought to be three inches, or
even more, as a long heel wears better. It also makes it much stronger
to knit it double with Angola wool, of the same colour as the knitting;
it can be bought at any linen-draper’s on wooden reels for 2d. One reel
does a pair.
Except for young boys, socks fit quite well without being decreased at
all for the ankle; therefore I only give one pattern on the decreasing
principle.
With silk stockings the size of pins is important.
_Heel of a Stocking or Sock._
To inexperienced knitters the heel seems to present mountains of
difficulty, but in reality the mountain is but a mole-hill after all.
The following pattern is one of the best.
Divide your stitches. We will say you have 50 altogether, on three
needles: take 12 on each side of the seam-stitch, and knit these 25
backwards and forwards in rows, not rounds (making the seam-stitch all
the same); you must pearl backwards, so as to keep the knitting even.
Continue until you have made a flap about three inches long, always
slipping the first knitted stitch. Now knit, from the right-hand side,
the 12 stitches; then the seam-stitch, which from this time forward
you cease to make. Knit 4 stitches beyond it; knit 2 together; knit 1;
turn, pearl until you get to 4 beyond the seam-stitch, pearl 2
together, pearl 1, turn. Knit until you come to the stitch in the
previous row where you turned—you may know it easily by the little hole
which was formed by the turning; you now knit 2 together and knit one
more stitch, then turn. Pearl the next row, of course always pearling 2
together where the little hole has been left, and so on until you have
gradually worked off the stitches. You then pick up the side-stitches
of this flap and the heel is finished.
_To Decrease for the Toe of a Sock or Stocking._
Put half your stitches on one needle, a quarter on the second, and a
quarter on the third needle. Thus: suppose you have 60 stitches, you
must have 30 on one side and 15 on the other two. The 30 must be the
front or ribbed part, the two pins with 15 stitches on them ought to
be the sole part. In doubling your knitting now, the front part ought
to lie evenly on the sole of the foot. Begin to knit the 30 stitches;
knit 27, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1. Now
begin the next pin; knit 1, knit 2 together. Continue plain knitting.
Now begin the 3rd pin; knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
over, knit 1. Now you begin again on the 30. Knit 1, knit 2 together.
Continue plain. Do two rounds plain, and then decrease again in the
same manner 4 stitches in every round, leaving always 2 stitches
between the decreasing, remembering always to do two rounds of plain
knitting between each decreasing round.
Repeat for two inches and cast off.
Some people only do one round between the decreasing: this plan makes
the toe rounder and more puckered.
_Decreasing for Instep._
On the right-hand side of the heel, just where the ribs leave off, you
slip 1, knit 1; pass the slipped stitch over; continue plain knitting;
and where the ribs begin again you knit 2 together. You must remember
that on the right side of the heel you slip, and on the left that you
knit 2 together.
_Lady’s Striped Silk Stocking._
(MEDIUM SIZE.)
2 oz. black and 2 oz. rose-coloured Imperial knitting-silk. Pins, No.
17.
Cast on 128 stitches in black, do 12 rounds of 2 plain, 2 pearl. Now
make the first stitch the seam-stitch, and do plain knitting until 4
inches are done, making the stripes come quite evenly, one inch broad.
When you have once joined the rose-coloured, let the black thread hang
down inside the seam-stitch; do not break off every time you change
colour, which must always take place at the seam-stitch. Now do 3 plain
and 1 pearl alternately. When 5½ inches are done decrease on each
side of the seam-stitch. Do * 7 more rows and increase. Repeat from *
twice more. When 12 inches are done decrease for the ankle every five
rows until you have 92 stitches. Knit until the stocking is 20 inches
long, and then divide for the heel. Proceed as on page 10; pick up the
side-stitches, and decrease over the instep until you have 90 stitches:
the front ribs must be carried on evenly, but the sole is left plain.
When the foot is 7 inches long discontinue ribbing. Knit 9 rounds
plain, and then decrease (see page 12). The foot must be 9¼ inches
long. Cast off and sew up carefully on the wrong side.
_Lady’s White Silk Evening Stocking._
Proceed as in the former pattern, with 128 stitches, in the finest
kind of silk. Plain silk stockings are the easiest to knit, but when
finished the striped ones are very pretty, especially when worn to
match the dress, with low shoes.
_Gentleman’s Evening Silk Sock._
(AVERAGE SIZE.)
Cast on 108 stitches. Rib by doing 1 plain, 1 pearl. When 3 inches are
done, do 3 plain and 1 pearl for 8½ inches. Turn the heel as on page
11. Decrease at the instep to 96. Carry on the ribs in the front part,
but let the sole be plain; when 8 inches are done leave off ribbing and
do 8 plain rounds. Decrease as on page 12, and when the foot is 10¼
inches long, cast off and sew up.
_Gentleman’s Silk Stocking._
The following pattern is in stripes of black and blue, but it will do
equally well plain. 2 oz. blue and 2 oz. black Imperial knitting-silk.
Pins, No. 17. If coarser silk is used, knit with pins No. 16 and cast
on 128.
Cast on 138 stitches in black, and proceed exactly the same as with
Gentleman’s Knickerbocker Stockings, page 16. Measure an inch of each
coloured knitting alternately: it is better to measure than to count
the rows, as silk is apt to be unequal. The ankle ought to be 100
stitches. Knit a flap 3 inches long for the heel, turn it, pick up
the side-stitches, and decrease at the instep to 98. After the first
joining of the black and blue, pass the colour you are not using at
the back; always change the colour at the seam-stitch: in that way you
need not break off the silk when you have finished a stripe, but keep
on with both balls, so as to join the silk only once. The remainder as
page 16.
_Lady’s Silk Stocking._
Knitted with Adams and Co.’s thickest knitting-silk and 4 pins, No. 16.
Cast on 120, knit a plain round. Knit 2 pearl, 2 plain, for 8 rounds,
and now begin to knit plain, making the first stitch the seam-stitch.
In this stocking you need not increase for the calf, unless you wish to
make it a larger size. If you rib the stocking, begin when 4 inches of
plain knitting are done; knit (or pearl) the seam-stitch, * pearl 1,
knit 3; continue from *. When 12 inches are knitted decrease every 5th
row until you have only 84 stitches on your pins. When the stocking is
20 inches long divide for the heel, by taking 21 on each side of the
seam-stitch. Knit the heel as on page 11. Pick up the side-stitches,
and reduce over the instep to 80. Make the foot 9 inches long, reducing
for the toe as on page 12.
_Lady’s Winter Stocking._
Pins, No. 15. 1 lb. merino makes several pairs.
Cast on 116 stitches.
With Berlin fingering-wool only cast on 98, and proceed as with Girl’s
Stocking, page 19.
_Sock for a Child of Two Years Old._
In merino yarn and pins No. 17.
Cast on 23 on the first pin, 22 on the second, and 20 on the third.
Knit a plain round, keeping the first stitch as the seam-stitch. Do
ten rounds in ribs of 2 plain, 2 pearl. Now do plain knitting, and
decrease twice in every fourth round for 12 rounds. Knit 10 rounds.
Take 14 on each side of the seam-stitch for the heel, knit backwards
and forwards for 20 rows; turn (see page 11). Take up 10 side-stitches,
and reduce until you have 56 for the foot. Do 26 rounds, decrease, and
cast off.
_Gentleman’s Knickerbocker Stocking._
Pins, No. 15, and 11 skeins of best Scotch fingering-yarn.
This is the largest size, suitable for a gentleman of six feet in
height.
Cast on 112, 37 on two pins and 38 on the third pin. Rib for about an
inch by doing 1 plain and 1 pearl, remembering to have the first stitch
on the first needle as the seam-stitch. You make this, by working it
plain in 2 successive rounds and pearling it in the next. Then do
plain knitting for 5 inches. You now begin to rib as follows:—Knit
or pearl the seam-stitch, knit 3 and pearl 1. Continue to knit 3 and
pearl 1 every row until 12½ inches are done. Then begin to decrease
every 8 rows. You decrease on the right-hand side of the seam-stitch
by slipping a stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Work the
seam-stitch and knit 2 together. If the stitch to be slipped happens to
be a pearl stitch, you must not slip it but merely pearl two together
on both sides. You will thus decrease 16 stitches, and now 16½ inches
ought to be done. Then knit 5 more inches. You ought now to have 94
stitches for the ankle and divide for the heel. Proceed for this as on
page 11; but as this is a large size, you must make the flap 3½ long,
always slipping the first stitch. When you have turned the heel you
must take up 21 stitches, and decrease for the instep at first every
row; and the last 6 decreasings do every other row until you have only
92 stitches. When 9 inches of the foot are done (measuring the whole of
the heel as well), you begin to decrease for the toe, which takes up 2
more inches; you then cast off, and sew up the toe on the wrong side.
_Sock for a Boy of Twelve._
(SUITABLE FOR POOR PEOPLE.)
Charity yarn, 3s. 6d. per lb. This yarn can only be bought by the lb.
Pins, 14 or 15.
Cast on 56, 20 on two pins, and 16 on the third. Knit 3, pearl 3,
alternately: make a seam-stitch. Rib in this way for an inch. Decrease
on each side of the seam-stitch. Do 7 more rows, decrease again. Rib
the sock for about 3 inches, 1 row plain, and decrease again. You must
now decrease again every 6 rows, when you ought to have 38 stitches.
For the heel, take 9 on each side of the seam-stitch, and pearl and
knit until 3 inches are done. Turn and take up the side-stitches.
Decrease every row until you have only 38. When the foot is 8 inches
long decrease for the toe and cast off.
_Boy’s Sock._
(ANOTHER GOOD PATTERN, VERY EASY.)
Knitted in charity yarn or wheeling-yarn.
Cast on 48, rib in 2 and 2 alternate, plain and pearl stitches. Rib 3
inches, and do the rest in plain knitting until 8 inches are done. Take
12 on each side of the seam-stitch for the heel, continue as on page
11. Pick up the side-stitches, decrease for the instep until you have
38 stitches, or until the foot measures 8 inches in breadth; that is, 4
when doubled. When the foot is 8 inches long decrease for the toe. Make
the foot altogether 10 inches long. Cast off and sew up. This pattern,
which is very easy and without any decreasings at all, fits exactly.
_For a Boy of Fifteen, in Scotch Wheeling-yarn._
Cast on 54. Proceed as in above pattern, without any decreasings, until
you come to the heel. Divide your stitches, knit a flap of 3 inches,
turn your heel, reduce for the instep until you have 48 stitches. Make
the foot 8 inches long, decrease until the foot is 10 inches altogether
in length. Cast off and sew up. This wool is so thick and strong that
it is hardly necessary to do the heels and toes double with Angola.
_Stocking for a Girl of Fourteen._
Scotch wheeling-yarn—1 lb. at 4s. 3d. makes nearly 3 pairs. They are
very strong and nice for the poor. Pins, 15 or 16.
Cast on 69. Knit 14 rounds, 2 plain, 2 pearl; make the first stitch
the seam-stitch. Then 50 plain rounds. Decrease on each side of the
seam-stitch 5 plain rounds. Increase 3 times with 5 plain rounds
between each, increasing 20 plain rounds. Decrease with 6 plain rounds
between every decreasing until you have only 53 stitches. Do 34 plain
rounds for the ankle. Divide for heel and do the flap, 29 rows. Take
up 18 stitches on each side. Reduce at the instep until you have 52
stitches. Do the foot as in preceding pattern, except that this one
need only be 9½ inches long.
_For a Boy’s or Girl’s Stocking, about Eight Years Old. Ribbed._
In white Scotch fingering-yarn.
Cast on 80. Knit 12 rounds, 1 plain and 1 pearl. Plain knitting for 4
inches. Rib 1, knit 3, until you have done 66 rounds. Now decrease on
each side of the seam-stitch. Knit 5 rounds and increase in the same
way. Do this twice more, and you ought now to have 84 stitches. When
11 inches are done decrease every 8 rows, and knit plain until the
stocking is 16½ inches long; then divide for heel. Knit and pearl 32
rows, and proceed as on page 18. Pick up 16 side-stitches, and after 2
rounds keep decreasing every row for the instep until you have only 68.
Work 7¼ inches and decrease. The foot ought to be 9¼ inches long. Cast
off and sew up.
_Gentleman’s Sock._
(LARGE SIZE.)
The same as the following pattern, but cast on 94. When you have
decreased the instep, let the foot be 92.
_Gentleman’s Ribbed Sock._
(SMALL SIZE.)
This also does for a boy from 12 to 14.
Pins, No. 15. Grey or brown best Scotch fingering-yarn, as bought at
Haig & Vince’s, 209 Oxford Street, 6s. per lb. 1 lb. makes 4 pairs,
leaving some over; 2 lbs. make 9 pairs of socks.
Cast on 80. One plain round; make the first stitch the seam-stitch.
Knit in ribs of 1 plain, 1 pearl, for 2½ inches. This is for the top
part. Now begin to rib in threes; 3 plain stitches, 1 pearl. Continue
thus for 8 inches, and then divide for the heel by taking 20 stitches
on each side of the seam-stitch. Knit these 21 backwards and forwards,
remembering to keep the seam-stitch and ribs even: you must, in coming
back, of course pearl 3 and knit 1. When 3 inches or 34 rows are done
you discontinue ribbing, and turn the heel as on page 11. Pick up 18
stitches from the side, and knit the sole plain, but continue the 10
ribs on the 2 front pins. When 2 rounds are done, decrease every round
until you have only 70 stitches; then knit until the foot is 7½ inches
long. You now discontinue ribbing. Do 8 rounds plain, and then decrease
for the toe as on page 12. This takes up 2 more inches, and your sock
ought now to be 10 inches long. Cast off and sew up.
_Baby’s Boot._
This is a very pretty pattern indeed. It must be knitted on two pins,
No. 16: ½ oz. pink Andalusian and ½ oz. white are required.
Cast on 50 stitches with the pink.
First row—knit plain.
Second row—knit the 3 first stitches; * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *
until you come to the last 3 stitches, which must be knitted.
Repeat this row twice.
Fifth row—plain.
Sixth row—pearl.
Seventh row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat from *;
knit the last stitch.
Eighth row—slip the first stitch, * put the wool over the needle to
increase; knit 1; repeat from *. In this way you ought to have 50
stitches on your needles.
Ninth row—knit every stitch.
Tenth row—pearl every stitch.
Eleventh row—slip 1, take 2 together; continue to knit 2 together until
you come to the last stitch, which must be knitted.
Twelfth row—the same as eighth.
Thirteenth row—plain knitting.
Fourteenth row—pearl.
Now join the white wool. Do 9 rows of ribbed knitting, but remember to
do 3 plain stitches both at the beginning and end of every row.
Tenth row—plain knitting.
Eleventh row—pearl.
Twelfth row—slip the first stitch, * take 2 together. Repeat from *;
knit the last stitch.
Thirteenth row—slip the first stitch, * pass the wool over the needle,
knit one; repeat from *. You ought now to have 50 stitches.
Fourteenth row—plain knitting.
Fifteenth row—pearl.
Repeat these four rows three times, so as to have four rows of
ornamental holes. Join the pink wool.
Sixteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together; knit
20, take 2 together; knit 10, take 2 together.
Second row—knit plain.
Third row—slip one, take 2 together; continue to knit plain until you
come to the 3rd and 2nd from the end, which must be knitted together.
Fourth row—plain knitting.
Fifth row—knit 14. Join the white, knit 16; turn round and work on
those 16 stitches in white, leaving the pink on the needle without
working them. Pearl a row, and knit a row.
Then, slip the 1st stitch,* take 2 together; repeat from *.
The next row slip 1, and increase before every stitch by passing the
wool over the needle: you ought now to have 16 stitches.
Knit a row, pearl a row. Repeat these 4 rows 4 times.
You ought now to have 5 rows of ornamental holes. Cast off the white,
and go on with the pink on the right-hand side. Pick up 11 stitches
from the side of the white flap, make 11 stitches. Knit 14 rows.
Fifteenth row—*, slip the 1st stitch, take 2 together. This ought to be
at the toe. The rest plain.
Sixteenth row—plain knitting.
Seventeenth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the rest of the row being
plain knitting.
Eighteenth row—plain.
Nineteenth row—slip 1, take 2 together: take 2 together again; the rest
plain knitting until you come to within 3 of the end, when you knit 2
together, the last stitch plain.
Twentieth row—knit plain.
Twenty-first row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again;
continue plain knitting to within 5 of the heel, when you knit the 5th
and 4th together; knit the 3rd and 2nd together, and the last stitch
plain.
Twenty-second row—knit plain.
Twenty-third row—slip the 1st, knit 2 together; knit 2 together again;
plain knitting till the 2nd and 3rd from the end, which you must knit
together.
Twenty-fourth row—plain.
Twenty-fifth row—slip 1, take 2 together, the remainder plain.
Twenty-sixth row—plain.
Twenty-seventh row—slip 1, knit 2 together, the rest plain.
Twenty-eighth row—plain, cast off.
[Illustration]
Pick up 11 stitches of pink at _c_ to form the toe.
First row—knit plain. Then increase at the toe until you have 18
stitches. Knit 3 rows plain.
Decrease every other time at the toe, until you have only 11 stitches.
Pick up 11 white stitches at the side of flap _d_, still knitting with
pink wool, and take up the 14 stitches at _e_.
Knit 14 rows in pink. Go back to * at the 15th row, and end at the 28th
row.
This is rather a difficult pattern, but when finished quite repays one
for the trouble taken.
_Baby’s Boot._
(A VERY EASY PATTERN.)
White Berlin, and pins No. 13.
Cast on 30; and, if speed be a desirability, the entire sock may be
done in plain knitting, but the following way is far prettier. Knit the
1st row; then do 24 rows for the leg, in any fancy stitch you like; the
last row,* knit 2, wool over the needle, take 2 together. Repeat from
*. This forms holes, into which ribbon must afterwards be run.
Twenty-fifth row.—From this time forward you must knit 1, pearl 1;
reversed every third row, to make a kind of dice pattern. Cast on 11
extra stitches at the end of each of the next two rows, making 52
in all. Increase at the beginning of every row until there are 62
stitches; do 4 plain rows; then decrease in the same way until you have
only 52 again. Cast off and sew up. Crochet a double scallop at the top
in blue Andalusian, to give a little finish.
_Double Knitting._
Cast on any number of stitches.
Knit a plain row.
Second row—slip the 1st stitch, knit the 2nd in the usual manner, _but_
put the thread twice round the needle. Then bring the thread forward as
if you were going to pearl, only _do not_ pearl, but take the stitch
off, and put the wool in front of the stitch back to its place. Then
begin again and knit a stitch with wool twice round the needle.
Third row—knit the first stitch. Bring the wool forward, and take off
the long stitch, putting the thread down in front. Knit the short
stitch, putting the thread twice round the needle.
_Double Knitting with Four Pins._
Cast on twice the number of stitches you wish to have on the right side
of the knitting.
* Bring the wool forward, slip 1, put the thread back, knit 1, putting
the thread twice round the needle. Repeat from *.
Second round—pearl, putting the thread twice round the needle, put the
wool back to the other side, and then slip the long stitch. Repeat
these two stitches.
You must be very careful in changing these rows, as otherwise it joins.
A good plan is to tie a piece of red wool where the pattern begins. Of
course the pattern interlaces at the 1st stitch, but otherwise it ought
to be quite separate.
Third round—the same as 1st.
Fourth row—the same as 2nd.
_Comforters, to cost 2s._
Double knitting is most useful for boys’ comforters.
Cast on 60 stitches with pins No. 6, and Berlin fingering or any soft
wool, and continue to knit backwards and forwards until the desired
length is attained. White or scarlet double Berlin is very warm and
soft.
_A Night-Sock or Carriage-Sock, in Double Knitting._
[Illustration]
This pattern does for a grown-up person if tolerably large bone needles
are used.
The above figure shows the sock completed but not sewn up.
Cast on 80 stitches. Double knitting for 13 rows.
Fourteenth row—double knit 63, plain knit the rest.
Fifteenth row—take off the 17 plain-knitted stitches, double knit 46,
plain knit to the end.
Sixteenth row—take off the 17 plain stitches.
Continue double knitting for 13 or 14 rows. Now 1 plain and 1 pearl row.
Knit 1, knit 2 together; knit 6 plain stitches. Repeat to the end of
the row.
Pearl 1 row.
Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat to the end of the row.
Pearl 1 row.
Knit 1, knit 2 together, 5 plain. Repeat.
Knit 1, knit 2 together, 4 plain; repeat until 12 stitches are left,
and cast off, leaving a long thread. Fold the work together and sew it
up at the heel; gather it a little in the sewing at the toe. This may
seem an odd shape, but it fits very well when on the foot.
_Gentleman’s Waistcoat._
(MEDIUM SIZE. FOR A YOUNG MAN.)
Steel pins, No. 10. ½ lb. dark claret-coloured double Berlin wool, at
6s. 6d.
Cast on 60 stitches.
First row—1 plain, 1 pearl. Repeat.
You must be careful always to pearl where, in the preceding row, you
worked a plain stitch. Every row is alike. When you have knitted it
long enough, work another side in the same manner, and send it to a
tailor to make up. This knitting will not run down when cut.
_Another._
(LARGER OR SMALLER SIZE.)
As sizes vary so much, a good plan to ensure a nice fit is to measure
the front of a waistcoat at the broadest part, and then for every inch
allow 6 stitches in double Berlin wool, with steel pins No. 10.
Thus: suppose your waistcoat ought to measure 11 inches across, you
must cast on 66 stitches; and for the turnings in you had better allow
9 stitches: altogether, 75 stitches.
_Ermine Muffatee._
1 oz. white and 1 oz. scarlet, 1 skein black, 1 skein yellow Berlin
wool; 4 pins, No. 17.
Cast on 20 on 2 needles, and 23 on the 3rd. Knit 2 inches in ribs of
3 plain, 3 pearl. Join the scarlet, knit 1 plain inch. Go on with the
white and knit 2 inches, ribbed, 3 and 3. Take a wool-needle, and with
black wool make 2 little lengthway stitches on the plain stitches
of the ribbed part. Then make a yellow stitch between the black, to
imitate ermine spots. Now double back the plain knitting and hem it in
a neat fold. Any other colour may be substituted for scarlet. A bright
blue is pretty.
_Lady’s Muffatee._
(QUICK PATTERN.)
Pins, No. 14. 1 oz. white Berlin, ½ oz. bright blue.
Cast on 20 on two needles, 24 on the 3rd. Plain 3, pearl 3. Knit 3
inches and cast off. With a bone crochet-needle make a very narrow
crochet edging lengthways up and down each rib. This has a very pretty
and bright effect.
_Gentleman’s Muffatee._
1 oz. brown best Scotch fingering-yarn, price 5½d.
Cast on 70 stitches, 1 row plain; 2nd row, 2 plain, 2 pearl. Repeat for
about an inch. Then 4½ inches of plain knitting. Another inch to match
the bottom part, of 2 plain and 2 pearl alternately; remembering, of
course, to make the plain stitches in one row, the pearled ones in the
next. Cast off, and take care not to cast off too tightly, as this part
goes over the hand. Sew up, leaving about four inches unsewn for the
thumb. Join the wool at the lower part of the thumb, nearest the wrist;
pick up 2 stitches; with your second needle turn and pearl off these
2 together. Now you have 1 stitch upon your needle; knit this stitch
and pick up 1 from the side; turn and pearl these two; pick up another
from the other side. Continue to pick up these side-stitches, but every
3 rows you must knit (or pearl) 2 together until you have decreased 8
stitches. You will now find it more convenient to have the knitting on
2 pins. Continue knitting and pearling until you have picked up nearly
all the side-stitches. These few remaining stitches, about 8 (4 on
either side), take up on a third needle, and knit 3 plain rounds.
Fourth round—pearl 2, plain 2. Repeat 9 times and cast off.
_Knitted Purse._
One skein blue and one black of purse twist.
These old-fashioned long purses are still occasionally used; the
following pattern is rather a small one.
Cast on 72. Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1. Repeat. Second row plain.
When broad enough double it and sew up, leaving about 3 inches open for
the money to slip in. Finish off with steel rings and tassels.
_Another Purse._
With pins No. 17 or 18, and 1 oz. embroidery silk, price 1s. 6d., from
Adams & Co. 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E., cast on 144, and
proceed as above; or make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the 3 over the
other 2.
Second row—plain. Repeat.
_Lady’s Knitted Woollen Vest, or Jersey._
(BEAUTIFULLY WARM AND COMFORTABLE.)
Needles, No. 9; merino wool, or 2-ply fleecy; the former for summer
wear.
These cost about 1s. 1d. each, and are the greatest comfort to those
who suffer from the cold.
The 2-ply fleecy is the best wool to use, as it does not wash hard.
For the back—cast on 78 stitches, pearl 3, plain 3, in ribs for 140
rows.
141st row—knit 18 stitches; now turn (these 18 stitches form the
shoulder-strap); pearl the 18; knit them; turn, and pearl them. You
ought now to be beginning the row again, and this time you pearl; and
now pearl the 17th and 18th stitches together; turn and knit back; knit
a row, taking the 16th and 17th together; turn and pearl back; knit a
row, taking the 15th and 16th together. Turn, and knit the row. Go on
in this way, remembering always to decrease at the left side, at the
end of every row, until you have done 5 ribs altogether. You ought
to have 12 stitches on now. Then cast off. These ribs ought to be
crossways instead of lengthways.
Now begin to cast off the remaining stitches, until you come to the
last 18. Work this shoulder the same as the last.
[Illustration]
The _Fig._ is the right-hand shoulder, the plain and pearl each
counting as one rib, making 5 in all.
For the front part of the vest you cast on 78 stitches and knit 125
rows. Begin the right-hand shoulder by pearling, and make ribs as
before, only this time you do not begin to decrease at the left until
you have done 7 ribs. Reduce to 12 stitches; make 11 ribs and cast off.
Cast off the remaining stitches, and proceed as before with the last 18
for the fourth shoulder-piece.
Now sew up these two sides until you get to within 24 rows from the top
of the front piece, which is the shortest. You must now join the rest
with a gusset, which you form by picking up one stitch, knit it and
turn; in every row you must now take up one stitch, and rib them the
same as the other part of the vest in 3 and 3. Thus, the first row you
have 1 stitch, the next row 2, the next row 3, and so on. When 24 rows
are done, cast off. Sew up the shoulders, and crochet a narrow border
of small even holes, into which run a piece of crochet wool or white
ribbon.
It is a good plan to pick up the stitches all along the shoulder-strap,
and knit a few rows, according to the depth of sleeve desired.
_Shetland Shawl._
This takes ¾ lb. of wool, and costs about 9s. A scarlet or violet
crocheted border improves it. It can be finished off with a fringe or
not, as suits the taste. Bone pins, No. 7.
Cast on 302. Knit a plain row; knit 1 plain stitch at the beginning and
end of every row. * Make 1, knit 3, draw the first of the three over
the other two. Repeat from *. The next row plain. Repeat these two rows
until enough is done, and cast off.
Any fancy stitch will do: it had better be rather a simple one.
_Pence Jug._
½ oz. pink and ½ oz. black Andalusian would do three. They would cost
3½d. each. 5 needles, No. 16.
Cast on 12 stitches on 1 pin for the spout, 10 on each of the three
other needles; 4 rounds plain. Now do rounds of 2 plain, 2 pearl,
except the spout, which leave plain, decreasing 1 stitch at each side
of the twelve in the first 4 rounds, and 1 stitch on every alternate
side in the next 8 rounds. The spout is now finished, and you ought to
have 31 stitches on the needles.
Knit 12 rounds, 2 pearl, 2 plain, except under the spout, where 1
stitch is to be plain.
With black begin the bowl; increase by knitting 2 in 1; pearl 2 rounds;
knit 4 rounds with pink; knit 1 round with black, increasing 12
stitches (one in every six); pearl 2 rounds with black; knit 4 rounds
pink; knit 1 round black, increasing 12: there ought to be 86 now.
Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 6 rounds pink. Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4
rounds pink. Knit 1 round black, decreasing 10 stitches at intervals.
Pearl 2 rounds black. Knit 4 rounds pink, 1 round black, decreasing 6.
Pearl 2 black rounds. You ought now to have 72 stitches. Divide these
by 6. Knit 11 rounds pink, decreasing 6 stitches in each round by
knitting 2 together at the commencement of each division, where a star
of 6 points will be found, and 6 stitches will remain on the needles.
These are to be drawn up and sewn together. Now cast on 6 stitches in
black, and knit and pearl alternately until you have done 3 inches:
this is for the handle; attach one end to the bowl and the other to the
top of the jug.
_Another._
(LONG SHAPE.)
Andalusian wool as the preceding pattern, and pins No. 15.
Cast on 12 stitches for the spout, and 15 on two other pins. Knit
4 rounds. Now decrease each side of the spout in every round. Do 9
rounds and then 3 pearl rows; then 9 more plain rows. Now for the
bowl—increase 1 stitch in every five, and then do three rounds in
black; now join the pink and * knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1: repeat
from *, the next round plain. Repeat these rows twice more, and with
black increase again 1 in every 8. Then with pink repeat the pattern
from *, and when the black begins again decrease instead of increasing.
Repeat as in preceding pattern and sew up. Take up 6 stitches at the
top of the jug opposite the spout, and knit and pearl for three inches;
cast off. Leave about a third of an inch hanging, and above that attach
it to the bowl.
_Another._
(ON TWO PINS.)
Berlin wool, and pins No. 15.
Cast on 3 stitches in blue or any other bright colour. 1st row, make
1, knit 1, repeat. 2nd row, make 1, pearl 2, repeat. 3rd row, make 1,
knit 3, repeat. 4th row, make 1, pearl 4, repeat. Continue in this way
until you have 42 stitches. Pearl a row and join the black wool. *
Bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; repeat from *. Knit the next
row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more. Do the same in blue, then the same
in black again. Join the blue, * knit 2 together, knit 1; repeat from
*. The next row plain. Do this for 4 rows. To form the neck of the jug
rib with black for 6 rows. For the spout, knit to the middle; increase,
knit 1; increase; the rest plain. Pearl a row, increasing on each side
of the 2 centre stitches. Increase in this way until you have 14 for
the spout; cast off in blue. Sew up the jug and make the handle in
blue, beginning a third of an inch from the top; take up 4 stitches;
pearl and knit alternately until long enough, then attach to the bowl
of the jug.
This can be knitted in Andalusian and pins No. 17, but in that case you
must make the bowl larger—68 stitches is a good size; and the neck or
ribbed part must be done for 12 rows instead of 6.
_Easy and Handsome Pattern for an Antimacassar, or Couvrette._
In 6-thread fleecy wool, ¼ lb. for each stripe. Pins, No. 6. This costs
9s. 9d. Scarlet maize, black, green, violet, are pretty contrasts.
Cast on 14 stitches plain knitting until you have attained the
required length. The only difficulty is in the casting off. You begin
by slipping the first stitch and knitting the second, which must be
very loose indeed, almost an inch in length; pass the slipped stitch
over. Now drop the 3rd stitch and let it run the whole length of the
knitting. Continue thus. The dropped stitches are allowed to run down,
and they form a kind of loop-pattern separated by ridges. Add a fringe
at top and bottom.
_Another._
4-ply fleecy, and bone pins to match.
Cast on 19 and rib cross-ways in nines. When long enough drop the
middle stitch. Cast on 9 in white, rib another stripe in the same way,
and drop the middle stitch. Crochet with black along every coloured
stripe, and join to the white with maize or orange. Two stripes of
green and one of purple look very nice.
_Persian Antimacassar._
This is extremely pretty, and is not difficult. The cost of these
couvrettes is generally about the same.
2 or 3 skeins of 4-thread fleecy, of each colour, according to the
length required. Pins, No. 10. Scarlet, gold, green, violet, dark
crimson, and blue. 6 skeins black, and 6 white filoselle, at 3d. per
skein, from Adams and Co., 5 New Street, Bishopsgate Street, E.
Cast on 22. Knit any length you like and cast off. Now select any
simple wool-work pattern—a palm is best—or any Moorish pattern, and
work it in cross-stitch on the knitting. Do 5 on one strip and 6 on the
next, so that they do not come exactly in a line one with another. This
has a very handsome effect, indeed. The pattern ought to be worked in
black, or black and white filoselle. Join, and add a fringe.
_Raised Plait Knitting for Carriage-rug._
(THIS IS EXTREMELY HANDSOME.)
Pins, No. 5. 3 lbs. and 3 ozs. 12-thread fleecy wool. You must have a
third pin pointed at both ends. This costs 25s.
Cast on 20, and knit 6 plain rows.
Seventh row—knit 4, pearl 4, turn round, and knit and pearl these 4
alternately until 11 rows are done. An easy way of counting is to look
at the side of the small strip, where there ought to be 7 large chains.
When 11 rows are done you slip these 4 stitches on to the third pin,
which you must keep on the right-hand side of your knitting.
[Illustration]
Pearl 4 stitches on the right-hand pin off the 2nd pin on the left,
leaving the 3rd pointed pin hanging down over the right side of the
knitting; then pearl the 4 stitches on the above-mentioned 3rd pin;
pearl 4, knit 4.
Eighth row—plain knitting.
Ninth row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4.
Tenth row—knit 8, turn round, and pearl and knit these 4 alternately
until 11 rows are done. Slip them on to the pointed pin, and let it
hang down over the right side of the knitting. Knit 4 stitches on the
right-hand pin off the left one; then knit the 4 on the double-pointed
pin; knit the remainder.
Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 12, knit 4.
Twelfth row—plain knitting.
Repeat from the 7th row until one yard and a half are done; knit 6
plain rows and cast off. You must knit 5 stripes, three scarlet and two
white, and join with Berlin or Scotch fingering. Put a fringe, which
must be crocheted on. Take about 24 inches of wool, double it, insert
the crochet-needle in a stitch of the couvre-pied and pull the ends of
the wool through the loop, and tighten gently with the fingers.
_Baby’s Berceaunette Cover._
Long wooden pins, No. 10. 1 lb. pink and 1 lb. white, 4-thread fleecy.
Costs 15s. with lining.
Cast on 7 stitches with pink, 7 with white; continue to cast on
alternately 7 in each colour until you have 147 altogether. Do * 7
stitches in pink, 7 in white. Repeat 3rd row, 7 pink stitches, and pass
the wool in front; then go on with the white. Continue this knitting,
and when 7 rows are done do white over the pink squares and pink over
the white; you thus make regular rows of squares. You must be careful
always to pass the wool after every alternate row to the front of the
knitting, so as to have all the long threads on the wrong side: care
must be taken not to pull these threads too tightly in passing from one
coloured square to another. Make a fringe, and line carefully with pink
silk.
Several of the couvrette patterns would make the above, and nearly all
the fancy stitches would be pretty done in stripes of pink and white.
_Knitted Quilt._
In stripes with cross-stitch sprigs.
Bone pins No. 6, and 4 lb. 6-thread fleecy, scarlet and white.
Cast on 12 stitches; knit a stripe of plain knitting, 208 rows long.
Now work about 17 sprigs or any other pattern on it, in bright
filoselle silk (see page 10), leaving 10 rows between each pattern. Now
knit a scarlet stripe 108 rows long. This stripe has no sprigs worked
on it. Do 10 scarlet and 9 white stripes, and join together.
_Hearth-Rug._
This must be made in squares and then sewn together. Cast on with
ordinary twine and steel pins any even number of stitches. Have ready
narrow pieces of cloth, about 2¾ inches long and ½ inch broad. Knit one
plain row. Second row, slip one; * put a strip of cloth between the two
needles and knit a stitch; then turn the end of cloth up again so that
both ends may come on the right side. Knit a stitch. Repeat from *. The
next row plain. You must pull this knitting rather tight.
The cloth can be bought of almost any tailor by the pound of scraps. It
makes a pretty border to put scarlet stripes at regular intervals.
_Loop Knitting._
This knitting leaves loops on one side, and is very pretty and warm for
quilts, couvrettes, &c.
Cast on, in 6-thread fleecy and pins No. 7, any number of stitches. Do
not slip the first stitch, but always knit it.
First row—plain knitting.
Second row—put the wool round the needle as if you were going to knit a
plain stitch, but instead of knitting let the wool hang straight down
over the forefinger of the left hand; wind it round and put it for the
second time over the right needle. Wind the wool a second time round
the finger, and for the third time put it round the needle; and now
knit this stitch, which ought to have the appearance of three in one.
Repeat. The next row plain. Do about six rows plain and then repeat
with the loops; of course you must only make them on one side of the
knitting, and they will require a little pulling to keep them in the
right place. This is handsome in stripes of shaded red.
_Fringe._
Berlin wool or cotton. Pins, No. 14.
Cast on 14. Knit the desired length, cast off 4 stitches, and then
unravel all the rest.
_Woollen Fringe._
(VERY HANDSOME.)
Have some ends ready cut, and cast on 7 stitches.
First row—knit 1, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together; take one of
the lengths and double it, hang it on the right-hand needle, knit 2
stitches, bring the double ends of wool forward, knit 1 stitch, put the
end back, and knit the last stitch.
Second row—knit every stitch plain, taking up with the 4th stitch the
loop of fringe wool, and being careful not to split either of them.
Continue to the end of the row plain.
Third row—the same as 1st.
Fourth row—the same as 2nd. Repeat.
_Lady’s Scarlet and White Petticoat._
(WORN INSTEAD OF A FLANNEL ONE.)
Wooden pins about 17 inches long, and then cast on all the stitches you
require. With pins No. 5 cast on 360, and knit with scarlet for 1 inch;
then 2 inches of white, then 2 inches of scarlet. Now do the rest of
the petticoat in double knitting, or some fancy stitch. (See page 42.)
When it is 26 inches long rib 21 rows in 2 plain, 2 pearl, and cast
off. Knit a simple crochet scarlet edging. These petticoats pull out
several inches longer after being washed.
_Lady’s Petticoat, to cost 10s. 6d._
Both these petticoats take about 15 skeins of petticoat yarn. Bone
pins, No. 5.
Begin with scarlet, if preferred, as above; but this pattern is given
for entire white wool.
Cast on 120, and knit 25 inches plain, then rib by doing 2 plain and 2
pearl for 24 rows. Cast off. Do another breadth; and for the 3rd and
front breadth you must, after the first 12 rounds, decrease at the
beginning and end of each row about every two inches. If you do not
like to have a gored breadth do this one exactly the same as the other
two. Crochet some scalloped edges round the bottom of the petticoat,
after having joined the breadths together. These petticoats are
beautifully warm and last for a long time. Summer ones can be knitted
with the same pins in Scotch wheeling-yarn or 2-thread fleecy, which
are much cheaper but not so nice and soft. It makes a charming finish
to put a border as on page 44. You need only make the petticoat 24
inches long in that case.
_For a Common Quilt._
Cast on with cotton 2 stitches, use pins about No. 14, and increase
every row. Do 6 rows of plain and 6 of pearl, so as to make lengthway
ribs. When half a square is done decrease at the beginning of every
row. When a sufficient number of squares are finished join together
with a square piece of calico between each knitted one. Thus: take a
piece of calico, turn down the raw edges, double it to the size of the
knitted square, and tack the two edges together. Then sew the knitting
and the calico together, as if you were doing patchwork. The raw edges
of the calico must, of course, be turned inwards, meeting each other so
as not to be seen even on the wrong side of the quilt. This is a quick
and neat quilt, but is not so pretty as the other patterns.
_Quilt. Laurel-Leaf Pattern._
Cotton, and pins No. 14 or 15. It makes a beautiful berceaunette cover
in 2 or 3-thread fleecy, and bone pins. The price so entirely depends
on the size of quilt desired that it is impossible to give it exactly.
It is a very handsome pattern.
This quilt is made in squares and joined afterwards.
Cast on 1, and you must not forget to increase at the beginning of
every row.
Second and third rows—plain knitting.
Fourth row—increase (by putting the cotton round the needle) before
every stitch.
Fifth row—you ought to have 6 stitches now. Do 1 plain, 3 pearl, 2
plain.
Sixth row—knit 2, increase; knit 3, increase; knit 2.
Seventh row—knit 2, pearl 5, knit 3.
Eighth row—knit 3, increase; knit 5, increase; knit 3.
Ninth row—knit 3, pearl 7, knit 4.
Tenth row—knit 4, increase; knit 7, increase; knit 4.
Eleventh row—knit 4, pearl 9, knit 5.
Twelfth row—plain knitting.
Thirteenth row—knit 5, pearl 9, knit the rest.
Fourteenth row—plain.
Fifteenth row—knit 6, pearl 9, knit the rest.
Sixteenth row—plain.
Seventeenth row—knit 7, pearl 9, plain the rest.
Eighteenth row—plain.
Nineteenth row—knit 8, pearl 9, knit the rest.
Twentieth row—plain.
Twenty-first row—knit 9, pearl 9, plain.
Twenty-second row—knit 10, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit
5, knit 2 together, the rest plain.
Twenty-third row—knit 10, pearl 7, knit the rest.
Twenty-fourth row—knit 11, slip 1, knit 1, take the slipped stitch
over, knit 3, knit 2 together, plain.
Twenty-fifth row—knit 11, pearl 5, plain.
Twenty-sixth row—knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit
1, knit 2 together, plain.
Twenty-seventh row—knit 12, pearl 3, plain.
Twenty-eighth row—knit 13, slip 1, take 2 together, pass the slipped
stitch over. This finishes the leaf, and ought to be 28 stitches; the
other half of the square is in ribs, decreasing at the beginning of
every row.
Twenty-ninth row—pearl, then a plain row, then pearl a row, plain a
row, plain another row, pearl. Continue thus in lengthway ribs of 3,
until you have decreased to one stitch. Join the squares so that 4
laurel leaves meet in the centre.
_Maltese Pattern._
Strutt’s knitting-cotton No. 6, and pins No. 16.
This is one of the handsomest patterns there are, but it must be
knitted much tighter than ordinary work. Twist the cotton twice round
the little finger, and you will thus be enabled to draw the stitches
quite tight.
When your squares are done, sew them together at the plain part, at
the beginning, where the increasings were made. They ought to make a
perfect Maltese cross. Cast on 1 stitch and increase every row. Knit
until you have 27 stitches on your needle. This completes the first
division.
Twenty-eighth row—make 1, pearl the rest.
Twenty-ninth row—make 1, knit the remainder.
Thirtieth row—make 1, pearl 1, * put thread before the needle, pearl 2
together. Repeat from *.
Thirty-first row—make 1, knit the rest.
Thirty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest.
Do the 33rd and 34th rows like the 31st, and now the 2nd division is
done.
Thirty-fifth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *.
Thirty-sixth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from*. Knit the last
stitch.
Thirty-seventh row—make 1, knit 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *.
Thirty-eighth row—make 1, pearl 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *.
Thirty-ninth row—make 1, * pearl 2, knit 2. Repeat from *.
Fortieth row—make 1, * knit 2, pearl 2. Repeat from *. Pearl the last
stitch.
Forty-first row—make 1, pearl the rest.
Forty-second row—make 1, pearl the rest.
Forty-third row—now you begin to decrease. Knit 2 together, knit the
rest.
Forty-fourth row—pearl 2 together, pearl.
Forty-fifth row—knit 2 together, put the cotton before the needle.
Repeat alternately.
Forty-sixth row—pearl 2 together. Pearl the rest.
Forty-seventh row—knit 2 together, knit the rest.
Forty-eighth row—pearl 2 together, pearl.
Forty-ninth row—like the forty-eighth.
Fiftieth row—now you do the third division again of 2 plain, 2 pearl,
according to the pattern; always decreasing at the beginning. In the
last row of this division you knit every stitch. You ought to have 27
stitches, and the rest of the square is plain knitting.
It is an improvement after the quilt is finished to run blue ribbon
round the holes which surround the cross, to define it, and bring it
out more clearly.
_Canadian Cloud._
Wooden pins, No. 1; 10 skeins of white and 2 of scarlet Shetland wool.
Cast on 200 stitches, and knit backwards and forwards for 2½ yards.
Cast off. Now with the scarlet crochet a border at the two sides.
Double the cloud lengthways, and then draw up the two ends and finish
off with a large tassel, made in the following way:—Double a skein of
white wool twice, then tie it round very tightly with strong wool about
two inches from the end; cut the other ends, and join the cloud and
tassel together with a crochet cord made of Berlin wool. It makes the
cloud prettier to add a little scarlet crocheted cap to the tassel.
_Rose-bud Pattern._
Pins No. 13 and coarse cotton.
Cast on 19 for the pattern, and two extra stitches, to have a plain one
at the beginning and end of every row.
First row—knit the first stitch, and knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, put the
cotton over the needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch
over, pearl, take 2 together, knit 1, pearl 1, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1,
pass the slipped over, pearl 1, take 2 together, knit 1, put cotton
over, knit the last stitch.
Second row—1 plain, 3 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1 plain; 2 pearl, 1
plain; 4 pearl, 2 plain, 1 pearl.
Third row—slip the 1st stitch, 1 plain, 2 pearl, 1 plain; put the
cotton over the needle, 1 plain; put cotton over, slip 1, knit 1, pass
the slipped over; 1 pearl, take 2 together, 1 pearl, slip 1, knit 1,
pass slipped over, 1 pearl, take 2 together, the cotton over, 1 plain
cotton over, the last plain.
Fourth row—slip the 1st, pearl 4, knit 1, pearl plain, pearl plain,
pearl 5, knit 2, plain pearl.
Fifth row—slip 1, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 3, cotton
over, slip 1, knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, pearl 1, slip 1,
knit 2 together, draw the slipped over, put cotton over, knit 3, put
cotton over, knit the last.
Sixth row—slip the 1st, pearl 6, knit 1, pearl 7, knit 2, pearl 1, knit
the last.
Seventh row—slip the 1st, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1, cotton over, knit 5,
cotton over, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped over, put cotton
over the needle, knit 5 plain, cotton over.
Eighth row—1 plain, pearl 16, 2 plain, pearl 1, knit the last plain.
Repeat from the 1st row again.
This forms a handsome border, either for quilts, antimacassars, or
baby’s berceaunette cover; especially the latter, done in stripes of
plain knitting, in wool.
_Another Pretty Border._
With Strutt’s knitting-cotton cast on 54 and knit a plain row. First
row—knit 2, * knit 2 together, knit 6, thread forward, knit 1, thread
forward, knit 6, knit 2 together. Repeat *.
Second row—pearl.
Third row—like the first.
Fourth row—pearl.
Fifth row—like the first.
Sixth row—plain knitting.
Seventh row—pearl.
Eighth row—plain knitting.
Begin again from the 1st row.
_Arrow Pattern in Stripes._
(VERY EASY.)
Cast on any uneven number of stitches, according to the width you
require. We will say 13. Put the wool before the needle and knit 6
plain stitches. This makes 7 stitches on the right-hand needle. Knit 2
together. The rest plain. Every row alike.
_Cable Knitting._
This is very pretty, either for the tops of babies’ boots or stockings
in fine wool, or for couvrettes, quilts, &c. in coarser.
It takes 8 stitches for the pattern. Cast on as many as you require for
the width of the knitting, and do 1 row plain.
Second row—pearl 1, put the wool back, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped
stitch over; pearl 1, putting the thread twice round the needle, knit
4. Repeat to the end of the row.
Third row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat.
Fourth row—pearl 1, keep the thread forward, slip 1, pass the wool back
to its proper place, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, pearl 1.
Now take the next 2 stitches on a third needle, and keep them on the
right side of your knitting; knit the next 2 stitches, and then knit
off the 2 on the third needle.
Fifth row—pearl 4, knit 1, pearl 2, knit 1. Repeat.
Begin again from the 2nd row.
If you desire your cable broader you need only add on a few more
stitches, say 9 or 10, to the pattern. With 10 stitches you would have
to slip 4 on to the third needle.
It makes quite as handsome a couvrette as the one on page 37, and costs
about the same price. If 6 instead of 12-thread fleece is used, it is
of course much cheaper and smaller.
_Hood Pattern._—Any number of stitches divisible by 2.
First row—knit 2 together, thread forward. Repeat.
Second row—thread before the needle, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Pearl
the last 2 together. Do the next row like the 1st.
Fourth row—pearl 1, * thread before the needle, pearl 2 together.
Repeat from *.
Fifth row—knit 1, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from *.
Sixth row—like the 4th.
Seventh row—like the 1st. Finish by knitting. Then begin again at the
4th row.
_Pretty Pattern, which forms a deep Scallop._—Cast on 12 for each
pattern. Knit a row, pearl a row four times.
Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, thread forward;
knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward; knit 1, thread forward;
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over; slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped
over. Repeat.
Sixth row—pearl. These two rows alternately, until the knitting is long
enough.
_Open Pattern, for Antimacassar._—Make 1, slip 1, pearl 2 together,
make 2, slip 1, pearl 2 together. Repeat. Every row is alike.
_Net Pattern._—Any number of stitches which can be divided by 3. Slip
1, thread before the needle, knit 2 together. Repeat.
_Large Holes._—Cast on in eights.
First row—knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1; knit 1, pass
the slipped over; knit 2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit
1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.
Second row—pearl 1, knit the first part of this stitch and pearl the
second, pearl 2, knit the first, pearl the second part, pearl 1. Repeat.
Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over; * knit
2 together, thread forward twice, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over.
Repeat from *.
Fourth row—knit the first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2; knit the
first thread, pearl the second, pearl 2. Repeat.
_Lattice Pattern._
This is very handsome for antimacassars in stripes of two or more
colours, and also for a baby’s counterpane. For the latter cast on in
white petticoat yarn 110 stitches on long wooden pins, No. 6. If when
finished you wish it larger put a border in rose-bud pattern. For an
antimacassar cast on 1 stitch with fleecy wool and coarse bone pins.
Plain knitting, increasing at the commencement of every row, until you
have 22. (This pattern is in sixes, and you must have 2 plain stitches
at the beginning and end of every row to form a border: these must
always be knitted plain. There must be an even number of stitches, 22,
28, 34, according to the width required.)
First row—knit the 22 stitches plain.
Second row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Knit 1, putting the wool
three times round the needle. Repeat from *.
Third row—slip 1, knit 1, for the border. * Take off 6 long stitches,
and pass the first 3 over the second 3, but do not let the latter run
off the left-hand needle; and now knit off these 6 stitches plainly.
Repeat from *.
This may sound difficult, but it is really quite the reverse, as it
merely consists in putting three stitches over another three, and then
knitting these six afterwards.
Do 2 plain rows, and repeat from 2nd row.
When long enough, decrease with plain knitting to match the
commencement, and finish off the points with tassels.
The next stripe, if preferred, can be done in a different pattern,
only you must remember to make the points, by beginning with one stitch
and then increasing up to the requisite number, decreasing in the same
manner at the end.
* * * * *
_Fancy Stitches._
All the following patterns are pretty. You must always cast on two
extra stitches, so as to have a plain stitch at the beginning and end
of every row, and every alternate row is pearled. Always work one or
two rows plain for a foundation.
_Pearl Pattern._—Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row—pearl 1,
slip 1. Repeat.
Third row—slip 1, pearl 1. Repeat.
Go back to the 1st row.
_Rain Pattern._—14 stitches are required for each pattern. 1st row—knit
1, thread forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped
stitch over, knit 5, thread forward. Repeat.
_Open Pattern._ 1st row—knit 1, bring the thread forward, slip 1,
knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1, knit 2 together, bring thread
forward. Repeat.
Third row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped
over, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat.
Fifth row—knit 1, knit 2 together, thread forward; knit 1, thread
forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over.
Seventh row—knit 2 together *. Thread forward, knit 3, thread forward,
slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped over. Repeat from *. Then go back
to the 1st row.
_Square Pattern, with reversed Holes._—Cast on 10 for each pattern and
two over, slip the first and knit the last in every row. Each alternate
row is 5 plain, 5 pearl.
First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over, knit 3,
pearl 5.
Third row—knit 1, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over,
knit 2, pearl 5.
Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over,
knit 1, pearl 5.
Seventh row—knit 3, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over,
pearl 5.
Ninth row—pearl 5, knit 3, knit 2 together, thread forward.
Now do every alternate row 5 pearl, 5 plain.
Eleventh row—pearl 5, knit 2, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1.
Thirteenth row—pearl 5, knit 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2.
Fifteenth row—pearl 5, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3.
_Leaf Pattern._—7 stitches for each pattern.
First row—thread forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 2. Repeat.
Third row—knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the
slipped over, knit 2 together, knit 1, bring the thread forward. Repeat.
Fifth row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over,
knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 1. Repeat.
Seventh row—knit 2 together, knit 2, thread forward, knit 3. Repeat.
Ninth row—knit 2 together, knit 1, thread forward, knit 1, thread
forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.
Eleventh row—knit 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward,
slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.
The next row pearled. Recommence from first row.
_Honeycomb._—Small holes. Cast on 6 for each pattern.
First row—pearl 1, putting the thread before the needle twice, pearl 2
together. Repeat.
Third row—pearl 2 together, thread before the needle, pearl 1. Repeat.
_Another Pattern._—Cast on 8 for each.
First row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.
Third row—thread forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit
6. Repeat.
_Brioche._—Cast on any number of stitches in threes, 21, 30, 36,
according to the desired width. * Thread before the needle, knit 2
together, slip 1. Repeat from *.
_Nice Pattern for the Tops of Socks._—5 stitches for each pattern.
First row—pearl 2, keep the thread over the needle, knit 3 together,
thread over. Repeat.
Second row—pearl 3, knit 2. Repeat.
Third row—pearl 2, knit 3. Repeat.
Fourth row—like the second.
_Very pretty little Pattern._—First row—knit 2, thread forward, slip 1,
knit 1, pass slipped over. Repeat.
Second row—Pearl 2, thread over, pearl 2 together. Repeat these rows
alternately.
_Another._—Cast on six for each pattern.
First row—pearl 1, take 2 together, thread forward, knit 1, thread
forward, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.
Second row—pearl 5, knit 1. These two rows alternately.
_Another._—Cast on 8 for each pattern.
First row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 2, thread forward,
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 2. Repeat. Every other row
is—pearl 4, pearl 2 together, thread over, pearl 2.
Third row.—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 3, thread forward,
slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped over, knit 1. Repeat.
Fifth row—Take 2 together, thread forward, knit 4, thread forward, slip
1, knit 1, pass the slipped over. Repeat.
By this time my readers will perceive how much alteration can be made
by merely reversing, and slightly altering, the position of knitted,
pearled, and slipped stitches, and will doubtless be able to invent
many more equally pretty patterns for themselves.
_High Bodice, to cost 1s. 3d._
This bodice is meant to wear under the dress. Three skeins scarlet
merino and pins No. 5, or Shetland wool and pins No. 7.
Cast on 98 stitches, and rib with 2 plain, 2 pearl, for 12 rows.
Thirteenth row—knit 16, make 1 (by putting the wool round the needle),
knit 30, make 1, knit 6, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 16.
Fourteenth row—Plain knitting.
Fifteenth row—knit 17, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 8, make 1, knit
30, make 1, knit 17.
Sixteenth row—Plain knitting.
Seventeenth row—knit 18, make 1, knit 30, make 1, knit 10, make 1, knit
30, make 1, knit 18.
Eighteenth row—plain. Continue in this way until you have done 30 rows
with holes and 30 alternate plain rows.
Now, for the front part take 60 stitches, leaving all the rest still on
the needle, and do plain knitting backwards and forwards on those 60
for 32 rows.
Thirty-third row—cast off 5 stitches, knit the rest plain.
Thirty-fourth row—you must now reduce for the neck at the end of this
row by taking 2 together.
Decrease thus every other row for 31 rows; you must have 39 stitches on
your needle. Cast off; this part is for the shoulder.
Cast off 16 stitches under the arm.
For the back take 66 stitches, and do 16 rows of plain knitting; then
38 rows, decreasing for the shoulder at the end of each row. Now cast
off 28 stitches for the neck. Cast off 16 under the other arm. Now take
the remaining 60 stitches for the second front, and do 32 rows as on
the other side. Reduce for the neck in the same manner, by casting off
5 at the 32nd row, and then decreasing at the end of every alternate
row for 32 rows. Cast off; there ought to be 39 stitches.
Sew the shoulders together, crochet round the neck and sleeves (1
treble, 2 chain), and run ribbon or crocheted chain round the former.
If sleeves are desired, cast on about 48 stitches, and do ribs of 3 and
3 the desired length.
The following diagram will render the explanations easier:—
[Illustration]
A good plan to prevent the front part from stretching too much is, at
every 10th row to leave the last 10 stitches before the end unknitted.
This pattern is for an ordinary figure, but after one trial the knitter
will find it can be altered to any size.
_Baby’s Jacket._
Pins No. 9, and fleecy or fingering-wool.
Cast on 36, knit 5 plain rows.
Sixth row—knit 4, make 1, knit the remainder. The next row plain.
Eighth row—knit 5, make 1, the rest plain. Continue in this way to make
holes each time one stitch further from the edge until 13 holes are
done. Then do 6 rows, decreasing once in every row, at the 6th from the
edge, on the side where the holes are: this part goes under the arm.
Now cast it off, leaving 32 stitches on the needle for the chest; knit
these 32 for 22 rows, and then decrease (at the opposite side to where
you cast off) for 20 rows, thus making 10 decreasings; knit 3 plain
rows and cast off. Do another piece in the same way, and for the back
cast on 22 and knit 5 plain rows: this part is for the neck.
Sixth row—knit 4, increase; knit to within 4 of the end, and increase
again; knit the remaining 4.
Seventh row—plain knitting.
Do these alternately for 26 rows until you have 48 stitches; knit 16
rows; then knit 1, take 2 together, take 2 together, make 1; plain to
within 5 of the end where you make 1, take 2 together, 2 together
again, knit the last. The next row plain. Repeat these two rows
alternately 12 times, then do 24 plain rows and cast off.
For the neck, pick up about 40 stitches in scarlet and do 4 rows of
ribbed knitting. Pick up 100 for the waist and do 8 rows plain, also
with scarlet, and 2 rows up the front. Finish off with large buttons
and elastic loops, and either knit 4 rows (like the neck) round the
sleeves, or put long ones. For the latter cast on 40 stitches and knit
7 inches. Rib 20 rows in scarlet for the wrist.
_Child’s Gaiter, to cost 1s. 2d._
Three needles, No. 11 or 12, and 2 oz. brown Berlin wool.
Cast on 60 (for a very small child 54 will do), knit 3, pearl 3, for 24
rows. Now do plain knitting for 12 rows, then decrease at the beginning
and end of the row. Continue plain knitting, but you must decrease
every five rows. When six decreasings are done go on knitting until 78
rows are done.
Seventy-ninth row—knit 21 stitches, take the next 18 for the instep
on a third pin and knit backwards and forwards, decreasing at the
beginning and end after the first 2 rows. When 18 rows are done cast
off.
Sew up the leg, and take up the rest of the stitches for the heel. Do
10 rows, decreasing at the beginning and end of every row. Cast off.
_Round Sofa-cushion._
This can be worked in shades, or in any two colours which contrast well.
Berlin and pins No. 14 may be used, casting on 54 stitches. This is
rather a small size; to make it larger use coarser wool, and pins to
correspond.
First row—plain knitting.
Second row—the rest of the cushion is done in Brioche stitch; leave the
last 3 stitches unknitted, turn and go on with the Brioche stitch.
Fourth row—leave the last 6 unknitted and turn.
Sixth row—leave the last 9 unknitted, and so on, 3 more every time you
get to the end of the row.
When you have worked off all the stitches, join the next shade and knit
the whole row. The next row like the 2nd.
This makes the knitting come into a gradual round. When large enough
sew it up and do a second in the same way. Make a round pillow lined
with feathers, and put between the knitting, which must be sewn
together like a silk pincushion. Draw in the centre, which may be
finished off with an ornamental button; the edges can be crocheted or
left plain, as preferred.
These cushions used to be very fashionable at one time, although they
are seldom seen now. However, fashions change so quickly that they may,
perhaps, be used again.
_Knee-cap._
These are very comfortable for people who are at all rheumatic.
Cast on 29 stitches with Berlin wool, knit 14, bring the wool forward,
knit the rest. Continue this until 28 rows are done. Then knit 32 rows
without increasing. Begin to decrease where you took the wool forward
at the 14th stitch by knitting 2 together. Do 28 rows to correspond
with the other side; have 29 stitches on your pin, the same as you
began with. Cast off, and sew the ends together.
The size of knee-caps must be regulated by the pins, and also by the
number of stitches used. Many people consider them better when quite
plain, without either increasing or decreasing.
_Baby’s Hood._
Pins No. 9 and Berlin, or any other soft wool.
Cast on 60, and do 1 plain row. Then do Hood pattern, page 50, for 5
rows; then 6 rows of plain knitting. Do the rest in any fancy stitch.
When the knitting is 4 inches deep do 2 plain rows, 1 pearled, and cast
off.
Cast on 22 stitches for the crown, do 1 plain row.
Second row—knit 1, thread over, take 2 together. Repeat; 6 more
plain rows, and then any fancy stitch. When 3 inches are done knit a
row, decreasing at the beginning and end of the row. Pearl the next,
decreasing in the same way. Do 5 more rows in this manner, and cast
off. Now sew the crown and head parts together, gathering the fulness
at the top, and not at the sides.
Take up 74 stitches for the curtain, or neck part, and do 3 rows of
alternate knitting and pearling; let the plain part come on the right
side.
In the second row increase after every 2 stitches, so as to have about
110 altogether. When you have done 3 rows do any open pattern for 2
inches, and cast off. Edge the hood all round with a simple crochet
edging in pink wool, and then ribbon round the neck.
These hoods are very useful in grey wool for poor people.
* * * * *
London: Printed by JOHN STRANGEWAYS, Castle St. Leicester Sq.
* * * * *
_PRICE LIST OF WOOLS AND YARNS_
Sold by HAIG AND VINCE,
209 OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W.
* * * * *
PER LB.
s. d. s. d.
Charity Wheeling Yarn 3 6 to 4 0
Best Scotch Wheeling Yarn, 6½d. & 7½d. per skein 4 3 ” 4 9
Best Scotch Fingering Yarn 6 0 ” 7 0
Scotch Berlin Fingering 7 6 ” 8 6
Merino Yarn, 4½d. per skein 10 6 ” 12 6
Petticoat Yarn, 9d. per skein 6 0 ” 7 0
Andalusian, 10d. per oz. 11 6 ” 15 0
Shetland Wool, 10d. per oz 11 6 ” 15 0
Pyrenees ditto — ” —
Berlin Wool, Single or Double, 7d. to 11d. per oz. 8 6 ” 12 6
Fleece Wool in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, and 12 threads 6 6 ” 7 9
Lady Betty Wool, 2, 3, and 4 thread,
9d. and 10d. per oz. 11 6 ” 12 6
Angola Yarn, 2½d. per skein 6 0 —
Scotch Knitting Cotton 3 9 —
* * * * *
_All patterns in The Lady’s Knitting-Book have been successfully worked
in the above Wools._
* * * * *
[Transcriber’s Note—the following changes have been made to this text:
Page 14: 12 to 11—“as on page 11”.]
*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The Lady's Knitting-Book - Containing eighty clear and easy patterns of useful and - ornamental knitting" ***
Copyright 2023 LibraryBlog. All rights reserved.