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Title: Discover the Excitement of Hairpin Lace
Author: Anonymous, - To be updated
Language: English
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*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "Discover the Excitement of Hairpin Lace" ***
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_Discover The Excitement Of
Hairpin Lace_
BEGINNERS AND ADVANCED DESIGNS
KNITTING AND CROCHET, TOO!
HAIRPIN LACE IS EASY
All you need is a
SUSAN BATES®
MARCIA LYNN®
Hairpin Lace Loom
and
Crochet Hook
® REG. TRADE MARK
Tricks of the trade:
BASIC DIRECTIONS
_Step 1:_ Remove cross bar from bottom of hairpin lace loom. Loom is
held with round end up (or remaining bar up if adjustable loom). Form a
slip loop ½ the width of loom, place left prong through loop
(illustration #1), replace cross bar.
_Step 2:_ Pass yarn around right side of loom and across back
([illustration #2]), insert crochet hook in loop and pull until knot is
at center, pick up yarn and pull through loop (illustration #3), remove
hook from loop.
_Step 3:_ Insert hook in dropped loop from back (illustration #4) turn
loom toward you from right to left, passing yarn around back of loom,
chain 1 (illustration #5) sc in front loop to left of center sts,
(illustration #6) drop loop from hook.
(Note: If easier for you, do not drop hook from loop before turning, but
pass shank of crochet hook through to back of loom and then turn and
proceed as in step 3 after turn.)
[Illustration: STEP 1 · STEP 2 · STEP 3 · STEP 4 · STEP 5 · STEP 6]
KEEPING TWIST: To keep twist in loops, insert crochet hook from back to
front in loops, then follow directions given.
WORKING LOOPS STRAIGHT: Insert crochet hook from front to back in loops,
then follow directions given.
PREVENTING SLANT:
When joining strips they sometimes have a tendency to ride uphill or to
one side. We therefore suggest the following method of joining.
Alternating from strip to strip, with starting end always on the right,
insert hook in 2 right loops of 1st strip and pull through 1st 2 left
loops of 2nd strip, then 2 loops on 1st strip, etc. until all loops are
joined. Fasten off.
Insert crochet hook in 2 left loops of 3rd strip, pull 2 right loops of
2nd strip through, etc.
Insert hook in 2 right loops of 3rd strip, pull through 2 left loops of
4th strip, then 2 loops of 3rd strip, etc.
Insert hook in 2 left loops of 5th strip, pull through 2 right loops of
4th strip, then 2 loops of 5th strip. Finish all last loops by pulling
remaining length at center of strip through last loop, bring end back to
center and work back through several sts at center. Conceal all ends.
COUNTING LOOPS: There must always be same number of loops on EACH side
of loom. When a large number of loops are required use a SUSAN BATES®
marker to mark the 50th or the 100th loop on each side, then count from
marker. This will be a time saver.
FULL LOOM: Remove cross bar, slip all but 3 or 4 loops off loom. Replace
bar and roll loops up; secure with SUSAN BATES® 4½ inch stitch holder to
back of work to prevent stretching of loops while continuing strip.
GAUGE: Measure the stitches at center of loom; if you get more stitches
than called for, change to a larger crochet hook; if you get less
stitches than called for, change to a smaller hook.
_A SELECTED SHORT SUBJECT_
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
3-inch Hairpin Lace loom.
Crochet Hook D or 3
4 oz. Knitting Worsted, 4-ply
Felt for Collar Backing 18 inches square
Make one strip each 80-85-90-100 loops. Cut felt to shape of collar,
approximately 4 inches wide. For a larger collar, cut felt wider and add
strips, being sure each strip is at least 5 loops (each side) longer.
Starting at neck edge, with overcast stitch at center of strip sew 80
loop strip ¼ inch from neck edge. Space the next four strips so that the
last one (100 loops) comes about ¼ inch from the outside edge.
CUFFS: Make two more strips of hairpin lace to fit sleeves. Sew ½ inch
from edge.
ABBREVIATIONS
St stitch
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
lp loop
hk hook
sc single crochet
dc double crochet
hdc half double crochet
trc treble crochet
dtrc double treble
crochet
yo yarn over
tog together
inc increase
dec decrease
K Knit
P Purl
sk skip
[Illustration: _Design by BARBARA O’BRIEN_]
LIGHTWEIGHT STOLE
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
2-inch Hairpin Lace loom
Crochet Hook B or 1
Baby Yarn or lightweight Fingering yarn
5 oz. White or color desired
2 oz. Blue or any contrasting color
With white, work 9 strips of hairpin lace each having 397 loops on each
side of staple. Working on first strip with blue or contrasting color sc
through first 5 lps inserting hook through all 5 lps at one time and
keeping loops straight. Do not twist, ** ch 5, * sc through next loop
but twist loop twice. Repeat from * twice, ch 5, sc through next 5 lps,
keeping lps straight. Repeat from ** across strip. Ch 6, sl st in center
of strip, ch 6 and work down other side of strip in same way. At end of
strip ch 6, sl st in center of strip, ch 6 and fasten off in corner
loop.
2nd Strip: Join blue in corner loop, ch 6, sl st in center of strip, ch
6 then work down 1 side. At end of row ch 6, sl st in center of strip,
ch 6.
You are now ready to join to first strip.
TO JOIN: Sc through first 5 loops of free edge of 2nd strip, ch 2, join
to center st of 1st lp of 1st strip (to join: drop lp from hk, insert in
st, pull lp through), * ch 2, 1 sc in each of the next 3 lps of 2nd
strip (twist each lp twice), ch 2, join to center st of next lp of 1st
strip, ch 2, sc through next 5 lps of 2nd strip, keeping lps straight,
ch 2, join to center st of next lp of 1st strip, repeat from * across
strip.
Work and join all strips as above.
Your Notes:
[Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
DESIGNER COLLECTION HAIRPIN LACIFIED
As seen in color on our front cover, photographed in Morocco
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
3-inch Hairpin Lace loom
4-inch Hairpin lace loom
(Use adjustable loom adjusted to 4-inch width)
Crochet Hook J or 10
4 Ply Knitting Worsted—
24 ounces White
20 ounces Purple
20 ounces Blue
or colors of your choice
Yarn is used double. Each loop has two strands of yarn but is still
called a single loop.
Edgings on both afghan and pillow are made on a 3-inch loom, even though
the afghan is made on a 4-inch.
AFGHAN: With 4-inch loom and J-10 crochet hook, make strips of 130 lps
each on each side of loom as follows: 6-purple, 7-blue, 12-white.
To join: Starting with blue strip, join to white strip (as per
instructions below), then join to purple strip, then to white ...
continue thus for length of afghan, ending with blue strip.
Join loops by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps, always starting at the same
end. When all strips are joined, weave in all ends, and finish as
follows. Finish sides of afghan by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps. Fasten
last 2 lps securely. Attach double yarn at corner, and working along
ends, sc in corner, * ch 2, sc in next lp. Repeat from * across, ending
ch 2, sc in corner st. Ch 1, turn.
ROW 2: Sc in first st. Then work * 2 sc in ch 2 space, sc in next sc.
Repeat from * across. Fasten off. Work other end of afghan the same way.
EDGING: With purple yarn and 3-inch crochet loom, and working on one
side of loom, make 2 strips each of 200 lps, and 2 each of 150 lps.
To Make Edging: Edging is worked in the same way as regular strips, but
instead of working the single crochet down the center of the loom, it is
worked close to one prong. This will make the loops on one side of strip
longer than the other. With J-10 crochet hook, and working on smallest
loops, pull 2 lps through 2 lps all the way across each strip. If you
prefer, the long loop may be cut for a fringe effect.
Sew the longer strips to the sides, and the shorter ones to the ends,
easing them around the corners, keeping them flat.
PILLOW:
Make 18 strips each of 42 lps each side as follows:
6—blue
4—purple
8—white
Join by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps as follows: Starting with blue strip
continue with white, purple, white, blue, white, purple, white, blue,
blue, white, purple, white, blue, white, purple, white, blue. When all
strips have been joined, join the first strip to the last. Weave in all
ends. Slip pillow form in and sew both ends.
EDGING: With purple yarn and 3-inch crochet loom and working on one side
of loom, make a strip of approximately 200 lps, or enough to go around
pillow. Finish short loops by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps, and sew to
pillow.
Your Notes:
[Illustration: _Designs by BARBARA O’BRIEN_]
TOM Afghan Tie
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
Crochet Hook D or 3
Lightweight sport yarn—
2 oz. Main Color
1 oz. each Colors A & B
½ yd. lightweight lining material if desired.
GAUGE: Each motif measures 3 in. square
6 sc = 1 inch
6 rows = 1 inch
MOTIF
With first color, chain 5, join with slip stitch to form ring.
ROUND 1: Ch 3 (to count as 1 dc throughout), work 2 dc in ring, ch 2
(for corner space), * work 3 dc in ring (shell made), ch 2, repeat from
* twice, join in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Each round is worked from the right side—DO NOT TURN.
ROUND 2: With second color, make a loop on hook, sl st in any ch-2
space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2 (for corner), work a shell in same
space, ch 1, * work a shell, ch 2, a shell in next ch-2 space, ch 1,
repeat from * twice; join in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
ROUND 3: With first color, make a loop on hook, sl st in any corner ch-2
space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2 (for corner), work a shell in same
space, ch 1, * skip next shell, work a shell in next space, ch 1, skip
next shell, work a shell, ch 2, a shell in next corner, ch 1, repeat
from * around; join in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
ROUND 4: With main color, make a loop on hook, sl st in any corner ch-2
space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2, work a shell in same space, ch 1,
* skip next shell, work a shell in next space, ch 1, skip next shell,
work a shell in next space, ch 1, skip next shell, work a shell, ch 2, a
shell in same corner space, ch 1, repeat from * twice, ch 1, shell in
next space, ch 1, join in top of ch 3. Fasten off.
Make 4 motifs. Sew together to form strip, sewing through back loop
only. Attach yarn just before corner on top edge, ch 1, work 1 sc in
each st around strip, and 3 sc in each corner st. Join with a slip st.
Ch 1, work a second row of sc around, stitch for stitch, and 3 sc in
each corner st. Join with a slip st. Fasten off.
Join yarn at corner and work 19 sc across top edge of tie. Place marker
at end of row. This will bring work to opposite corner, ch 1, turn. The
remainder of tie is worked back and forth in single crochet.
Next Row: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. Continue in this manner for
4½ inches from marker.
Decrease Row: * Pick up a loop in first st, pick up a loop in second st,
y o hook and pull through all 3 loops (1 decrease made). Work to last 2
sts and repeat the decrease, ch 1, turn. Work 1 row even.
Repeat last 2 rows 4 times (9 sts).
Work even on 9 sts until tie measures 52″ or desired length.
Line if desired same as ascot, being sure to cut lining on the bias.
DICK Knitted Tie
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
Double-pointed knitting needles
No. 4, No. 6, and No. 8.
Lightweight sport yarn
2 oz. main color 1 oz. color A 1 oz. color B
GAUGE: Needles
No. 4—7 sts = 1 inch
No. 6—6 sts = 1 inch
No. 8—5 sts = 1 inch
Starting with No. 8 needles and main color, cast on 36 sts. Divide on 3
needles—DO NOT TWIST STITCHES—and work around in stripe pattern as
follows:
7 rows Main Color; 7 rows color A; 7 rows color B; 7 rows color A.
Continue to work in stripe pattern as established (7 rows MC; 7 rows A;
7 rows B; 7 rows A) until 12 pattern stripes have been completed.
Change to No. 6 needles and work 5 more pattern stripes ending with MC.
Remainder of tie will be worked in main color.
Decrease row: * k 2, k 2 tog, k 2, k 2 tog, k 2, k 2 tog, k 2, k 2 tog,
k 2, repeat from * once more (28 sts).
Change to No. 4 needles and work until piece measures 54 inches, or
desired length. Steam lightly. Sew ends.
HARRY Ascot
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
Knitting Needles No. 4—10″ lengths
Lightweight sport yarn—2 oz.
½ yard lightweight lining material
_continuation from page 22_
GAUGE: 7 sts = 1 inch.
Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: K 1; in next st k, p, k; k 1 (5 sts).
Row 2: K 2; in next st k, p, k; k 2 (7 sts).
Row 3: K 3, yo, k 1, yo, k 3.
Row 4 and all even rows: K 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 5: K 3, yo, k 3, yo, k 3.
Row 7: K 3, yo, k 5, yo, k 3.
Row 9: K 3, yo, k 7, yo, k 3.
Row 11: K 3, yo, k 9, yo, k 3.
Row 13: K 3, yo, k 11, yo, k 3.
Row 15: K 3, yo, k 13, yo, k 3.
Row 17: K 3, yo, k 15, yo, k 3.
Row 19: K 3, yo, k 17, yo, k 3.
Row 21: K 3, yo, k 19, yo, k 3.
Row 23: K 3, yo, k 21, yo, k 3.
Row 25: K 3, yo, k 23, yo, k 3.
Row 27: K 3, yo, k 25, yo, k 3.
Row 29: K 3, yo, k 27, yo, k 3 (35 sts).
Row 30: K 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 31: Knit.
Repeat last 2 rows until piece measures 14 inches from beginning, ending
with purl row (row 30).
Decrease as follows:
Row 1: K 3, k 2 tog working through back of sts, k to last 5 sts, k 2
tog in front of sts, k 3.
Row 2: K 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: K 3, p to last 3 sts, k 3.
Repeat last 4 rows until 11 sts remain.
Work even on 11 sts for 6 inches. Bind off.
Work a second piece as above. Sew bound-off edges together in center.
LINING:
Block ascot and pin to lining material on the bias. Cut lining ½ inch
larger than ascot for seam allowance.
Turn under seam allowance and stitch to ascot.
[Illustration: DICK · HARRY · TOM]
THE ELEGANTS CREATE THEIR OWN FASHION MAGIC
As seen in color on our back cover photographed in Morocco
[Illustration: _Design by BARBARA O’BRIEN_]
Your Notes:
WOMAN’S STOLE
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
3-inch Hairpin Lace loom
Crochet Hook F or 5
4-ply Knitting Worsted 16-ounces
GAUGE: 5 sc = 1 inch at center of strip.
Make 5 strips each of hairpin lace with 300 lps on each side of strips.
FINISH STRIPS: When 300 lps are made and before taking loops from loom,
ch 10. Now slide all loops from loom and work as follows. Insert hook
through first 5 lps and work 1 sc, * ch 6, 1 sc in next group of 5 lps,
repeat from * to end of strip, ch 10, 1 sc in center of hairpin lace
strip, ch 10, and work up other side of strip the same as the first
side, ch 10, and sl st in center of strip. Fasten off. Repeat for
remaining 4 strips.
TO JOIN STRIPS: Row 1: join yarn in first group of first strip, ch 6, 1
sc in first ch-6 space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-6 space, repeat from *
across, ending ch 6, 1 sc in sc of last group, ch 6, turn.
ROW 2: 1 sc in first ch-6 space, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-6 space, repeat
from * across row ending with ch 6, turn.
ROW 3: 1 sc in first group of 2nd strip, ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-6 space
of first strip, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-6 space of 2nd strip, * ch 3, 1 sc
in next ch-6 space of first strip, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-6 space of 2nd
strip, repeat from * across row, ending ch 3, sl st in last group.
Fasten off. Join remaining strips in the same way.
TO FINISH OUTSIDE EDGE:
Join yarn to first group of 5 lps, ** ch 6, sc in same group, * ch 6, sc
in next ch-6 space, repeat from * across row ending ch 6, sc in last
group. Ch 6, sc in same group. Working across end, * ch 6, sc in next
space. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in first group of other
side. Repeat from ** once. Join with a sl st. Fasten off.
FRINGE: Using a 10-inch cardboard, wrap yarn around enough times so you
have 6 strands for each ch-6 space across both short ends. Cut yarn at
one end. With 6 strands folded in half, pull folded end through first
ch-6 space. Now slip loose ends through folded section, and pull knot up
close to work. Work 1 group of fringe in each ch-6 space across each
end. Trim fringe even.
WOMAN’S VEST
Sizes 10-12 and 14-16
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
3-inch Hairpin Lace loom
Crochet Hook D or 3
4-ply Knitting Worsted-8 ounces
GAUGE: 5 sc = 1 inch at center of strip.
For Sizes 10-12, make
4 strips each of 200 lps—each 40″
2 strips each of 60 lps—each 12″
1 strip each of 92 lps—18½″
For Sizes 14-16, make two strips of 92 lps each for back.
Finish each strip as follows:
After last loop is made, ch 6, slip loops off loom being careful not to
twist. Make a sc through first 4 lps, * ch 4, make a sc through next 4
lps. Repeat from * across strip. Ch 6, sc in center of strip, ch 6, and
work down other side of strip in the same way. At end of strip, ch 6, sl
st in center and fasten off. Join strips as follows, putting them
together as shown in diagrams. Sl st in top of cluster on first strip,
ch 1, sl st in top of cluster on second strip, ch 1, sk 1 ch on first
strip, and sl st in next ch. Continue to work back and forth with a sl
st in every other ch, alternating from one side to the other, with a ch
1 in between, being careful to keep patterns even.
Sizes 10-12 Sizes 14-16
60 60
200 200
200 200
92 92
200 92
200 200
60 200
60
continuation from page 22
When pieces are all joined, fold over at shoulders, and join side fronts
to underarm strips. Work a row of s c around armholes, working 3 s c in
each ch-4 chain, and 10 s c across underarm. Work 2 more rows, working 1
s c in each s c. Work s c around outside of vest as follows: Starting at
lower right front, work 4 s c in each ch-4 chain (skipping the ch 1
which forms the cluster), 6 s c in each ch-6 chain, 4 s c in each ch-4
chain down left side, 3 s c in corner cluster st, 6 s c in each ch-6
space across bottom, and 3 s c in lower cluster st on right front. Work
2 more rows of s c, st for st, working 3 sts in each lower corner. If
desired: Make a chain 40 inches long for closing.
A BABY is never too young for HAIRPIN LACE
[Illustration: _Designs by BARBARA O’BRIEN_]
Baby Set—Size to 6 months
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
2-inch Hairpin Lace loom
Crochet Hook D or 3
Pom-Pon maker
Baby Yarn—
1 oz. for Bootees
1 oz. for Bonnet
3 ozs. for Sacque
Gauge: s c—5 st—1 inch
BOOTEES
Make two.
Ch 9. S c in second chain from hook, and in each ch across (8 s c). Ch
1, turn. Work 1 s c in each s c across, ch 1, turn. Work 6 more rows the
same as the last one. Ch 26, and sl st to beginning of the last row.
Work 7 s c down the side of the square, 7 s c along bottom, and 7 s c up
the other side, and 26 s c along across chain.
Work 7 more rows of s c around. Fasten off. Sew together across bottom,
gathering in heel and toe slightly, so they will not come to a point.
Attach yarn at top of bootee on one side, and ch 3, sk 1 st, d c in next
st, * ch 1, sk 1 st, d c in next st. Repeat from * around, ending ch 1,
sl st to top of ch 3.
Row 2: Work 2 s c in each ch-1 space around. Sl st to first st, fasten
off.
Make 2 strips each of hairpin lace with 48 lps on each side.
Join strips by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps. Join end to form a circle.
Finish outside edges by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps and fasten ends
together. Sew cuff to bottom of bootee with yarn needle and baby yarn,
having seam at back.
TIE: With double yarn make a chain 10-inches long. Weave in and out of
eyelets of bootee. Make a small pom-pon with a Susan Bates or Marcia
Lynn pom-pon maker for each end and attach.
BABY SACQUE
YOKE BACK: Ch 50, d c in 3rd ch from hook, and in each ch across (48 d
c). Ch 3, turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 d c in each d c across, ch 3, turn.
Repeat Row 2, 8 times.
SIDE FRONT: On next row, work across 14 sts, increasing one stitch in
14th st (neck edge). Ch 3, turn.
Work 9 more rows, increasing 1 st at neck edge on each row. Fasten off.
Skip center 20 sts for neck and tie in yarn. Work second front to
correspond with first, increasing one st at neck edge every row. Row 11,
ch 1, turn. Work 1 s c in each st across first side, ch 8, work 1 s c in
each st across back, ch 8, work 1 s c in each st across other side, ch
1, turn. Work 1 s c in each s c and in each chain across row. Turn work,
and work a row of s c around neck edge. Fasten off.
With hairpin lace crochet loom, make 20 strips each of 39 lps on each
side of loom. Join by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps, always working from
bottom to top. Finish outside edges by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps from
bottom to top. Sew to yoke, easing in fullness.
For each sleeve, make 6 strips each of 33 lps on each side of crochet
loom. Join in the same way as before. When all six have been put
together, join the first strip to the sixth. Sew sleeves in place.
With right side facing you, work a row of shells around neck edge as
follows: s c in first st, * skip 1 st, 5 d c in next st (shell made),
skip 1 st, s c in next st, repeat from * around. Fasten off.
With right side facing you, work a row of shells across bottom, and
around sleeve edge, working a shell in joining point of 2 strips, and s
c in center of strip.
BABY BONNET
BACK PIECE: Ch 3. Work 12 d c in third chain from hook. Join with a sl
st.
ROUND 2: Ch 3. Work 1 d c in same place as sl st, and 2 d c in each st
around. (24 d c.) Join each rnd. with a sl st.
ROUND 3: Ch 3. D c in same st as sl st, * 1 d c in next st, 2 d c in
next st, repeat from *.
Continue to increase 12 sts each rnd for 2 more rnds (60 sts).
HAIRPIN LACE: Make 3 strips of 78 lps, 1 strip of 52 lps.
Join 3—78 lp strips by pulling 3 lps through 3 lps. Finish one side by
pulling 3 lps through 3 lps.
Join 4th strip to other edge by pulling 3 lps of third strip through 2
lps of fourth, and 2 lps of fourth through 3 lps of third. Finish other
side of fourth strip by pulling 2 lps through 2 lps across.
On back piece, mark off 12 sts for back of neck. Sew side with 52-lp
strip to back piece, omitting these 12 sts.
_continuation from page 22_
NECK BAND: Join yarn at front edge, and work a row of 36 s c around neck
edge. Work 3 more rows st for st. Work a row of shell st around front of
bonnet.
TIES: Make 2.
With yarn double, make a chain of 40 sts.
Add pom-pon and attach to bonnet.
BABY BLANKET
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
Crochet Hook F or 5
Lightweight Sport Yarn 8 oz.
3-inch hairpin lace loom
GAUGE: 5 s c to 1 inch.
NOTE: Yarn is worked double throughout. Each loop has two strands of
yarn which will be referred to as a SINGLE LOOP.
Make 14 strips of 120 SINGLE LOOPS on each side of loom. Join SINGLE
LOOPS by pulling 2 SINGLE LOOPS through 2 SINGLE LOOPS always starting
at same end and working from right side. Fasten last 2 SINGLE LOOPS
securely. Finish sides by pulling 2 SINGLE LOOPS through 2 SINGLE LOOPS.
Weave in all ends.
EDGING—Make a strip of hairpin lace long enough to go around all four
sides of blanket allowing a little extra for fullness at corners. It is
better to have too much as it can be pulled out. Finish one side of this
strip by pulling 2 SINGLE LOOPS through 2 SINGLE LOOPS. This side will
be sewed to the edge of the blanket. Leave SINGLE LOOPS on the other
side loose to form fringe. This may be cut if desired.
THE BEST IN VESTS
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
Crochet Hook K or 10½
16 ounces 4-ply Knitting Worsted for Small Size
20 ounces for Medium and Large sizes
4 Buttons. We used wooden buttons but covered buttons as described on
page 23 would be equally smart.
Gauge: 3 stitches—1 inch; 2 rows—1 inch.
Directions are for Small-size 38. Medium-size 40-42 and Large-size 44
are in parentheses.
Pattern:
ROW 1: Skip one ch, * 1 sc in next ch, 1 dc in next ch, repeat from *
across row. Ch 1, turn.
ROW 2: Sc in each dc, and dc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat Row 2
for pattern.
BACK: Ch 55 (61-67). Work in pattern for 12 (12½-13) inches.
ARMHOLE: Sl st across first 6 sts. Ch 1, work in pattern up to the last
6 sts. Ch 1, turn.
Decrease 1 st at each end of next 2 rows until 38 (44-50) sts remain.
TO DECREASE: Pick up a loop in first st, pick up a loop in second st,
yarn over hook and pull through all three loops on hook.
Work even until armhole measures 10 (10½-11) inches
SHOULDER: Sl st across first 6 (7-8) sts, ch 1, work pattern across next
6 (7-8) sts. Fasten off. Skip next 14 (16-18) for neck, and tie in yarn.
Ch 1, and work pattern across next 6 (7-8) sts. Slip st in next 6 (7-8)
st. Fasten off.
RIGHT FRONT: Ch 37 (41-45).
Work in pattern for 6 (6½-7) inches. Decrease one st at neck edge every
other row 16 (18-20) times, and at the same time, when piece measures
same as back to armhole, work armhole the same as back. On remaining 12
(14-16) sts, work straight until armhole measures same as back. Slip st
across first 6 (7-8) sts, ch 1, work pattern across next 6 (7-8) sts.
Fasten off. Mark this piece for buttons (four).
LEFT FRONT: Work same as right front, reversing all shaping, and making
buttonholes to correspond with markings on right front.
TO MAKE BUTTONHOLES: Work to the dc before the first buttonhole. * Work
this dc, ch 1, skip next sc, work dc in next st. Continue to work
pattern to next buttonhole marking and repeat from *. Finish pattern
across row. On next row, work in pattern, using the ch 1 to replace the
st skipped. Sew shoulders and sides. Sc around armholes and outside edge
of vest. Sew buttons in place.
Your Notes:
[Illustration: _Design by BARBARA O’BRIEN_]
A HAIRPIN HIGHLIGHT
[Illustration: {uncaptioned}]
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
Crochet Hook G or 6
1½ inch Hairpin Lace loom
Knitting Worsted 2 4-oz. skeins each any two contrasting colors
Hairpin Lace Tunic Sweater
GAUGE: 5 s c = 1 inch at center of strip
Directions are given for small size (12). Changes for medium (14) and
large (16) sizes given in parentheses.
MEASUREMENTS:
Width across front at underarm: 18 (19, 20) inches
Width across back at underarm: 17 (18, 19) inches
BACK: With darker color work 80 (90, 100) lps on each side of staple.
Work 10 (for all sizes) more dark strips. Work 10 (for all sizes) strips
contrasting color. This completes strips from lower edge to underarm
running horizontally. Work 1 strip contrasting color with 68 (78, 88)
loops. Work 3 strips dark color and 2 strips contrasting color each with
64 (74, 84) loops. This completes strips for armhole.
TO ASSEMBLE: Always work strips with starting loops on right edge and
beginning length of yarn at top. Take 1 dark strip, place 1 contrasting
strip above; insert crochet hook in 1st 2 loops of top strip on right
edge, insert crochet hook in 1st 2 loops of lower (dark) strip and pull
through top strip, insert in next 2 loops of top strip and pull through.
Continue in same manner across strips working alternately into top and
lower strip until joining is completed. Place a dark strip on top of
light strip and join in same manner. Alternating colors continue joining
all strips to underarm.
SHAPE ARMHOLE: Take the strip with 68 (78, 88) loops. Skip 1st 6 loops
on last strip, then work joining as before, skipping last 6 loops. Take
next color strip with 64 (74, 84) loops; insert hook in 2 loops of top
strip, then insert through 4 loops of lower strip and pull through, then
join as before working last 4 loops tog. Alternating colors, continue
joining all armhole strips.
FRONT: Work 11 dark strips with 90 (100, 110) loops and 10 contrasting
strips with 90 (100, 110) loops. Work and mark following strips for neck
and armhole shaping: 2 strips 34 (38, 42) loops contrasting color, 2
strips 28 (32, 36) dark color, 2 strips 24 (28, 32) contrasting color, 2
strips 20 (24, 28) dark color, 4 strips 16 (20, 24) contrasting color, 2
strips 16 (20, 24) dark color.
TO ASSEMBLE: Join strips to underarm in same manner as back.
SHAPE NECK AND ARMHOLES: 1st ROW. Take 1 strip 34 (38, 42) loops, skip 6
loops on right edge for armhole shaping, then complete joining. Take 2nd
34 (38, 42) loops strip, skip 10 (12, 14) loops for neck, and complete
joining skipping last 6 loops at other armhole.
2nd ROW: Take 28 (32, 36) strip, insert crochet hook in 2 loops on top
strip, insert hook through 4 loops on lower strip and pull through,
continue joining loops as before until 10 loops are free on lower strip,
* pick up and pull through 3 loops on lower strip, pick up and pull
through 2 loops on top strip, repeat from * once, then pick up and pull
through 4 loops on lower edge. Take 2nd 28 (32, 34) loop strip, pick up
2 loops on top strip, pick up and pull through 4 loops on lower strip, *
pick up 2 loops on top strip, pick up and pull through 3 loops on lower
strip, repeat from * once, then complete joining in same manner, working
last 4 loops tog.
3rd ROW: Take next color with 24 (28, 32) loops, work joining even until
10 loops are free on lower strip, then complete same as last row. Take
2nd 24 (28, 32) strip, work joining same as last row working even at
armhole edge.
4th ROW: Take next color with 20 (24, 28) loops, and join same as last
row.
5th ROW: Take next color with 16 (20, 24) loops and repeat last row.
6th ROW: With next color, repeat last row.
7th ROW: Repeat last row.
FINISHING: Join front and neck sections together at shoulders same as
all joining. Sew side seams with matching colors. Finish all ends. Work
a row of s c around each armhole working 4 s c in each stripe, join.
Work a row of s c around neck edge working 4 s c in each color stripe
and working 2 s c in each st at front neck edge; working 1 s c in each
of 2 sts each side at shoulders and 2 s c in each remaining st across
back of neck, join.
2nd ROW: S c, 4 d c in same space, skip 3 s c, * s c, 4 d c in next s c,
repeat from * all around, join, fasten off.
Your Notes:
FATED to be DATED
Knitted vest in an easy loose open stitch that looks like crochet.
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
1 pair Knitting Needles Size 19
Crochet Hook K or 10½
12 ounces 4-ply Knitting Worsted for Small Size and Medium
16 ounces for Large size
Directions are given for small size—8-10 Changes for medium—12-14 and
large sizes—16-18 are in parentheses
NOTE: Yarn is used double throughout.
GAUGE: 2 sts = 1 inch.
PATTERN:
Row 1: K 1, * YO, K 2 tog, repeat from * across.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: * K 2 tog, YO, repeat from * across row ending with K 1.
Row 4: Purl.
VEST: Cast on 65 (69-73) sts. Work in pattern for 27 rows, ending with
Row 3 of pattern.
Row 28: Purl across 13 (15-17) sts.
Bind off next 7 sts, purl across 25 sts (for all sizes), bind off next 7
sts, purl across remaining 13 (15-17) sts.
RIGHT FRONT: Work 4 rows in pattern over first 13 (15-17) sts.
Row 5: Bind off 8 sts at neck edge, complete row by working YO, K 2 tog,
across row.
Continue to work in pattern over these 5 (7-9) sts, until 13 rows have
been completed. Bind off.
BACK: Attach yarn at right side of back, and work in pattern across
these 25 sts until 16 rows have been completed. Bind off.
LEFT FRONT: Attach yarn, and work in pattern for 3 rows.
Row 4: Bind off 8 sts at neck edge, finish row.
Continue to work in pattern over these 5 (7-9) sts, until 13 rows have
been completed. Bind off, sew shoulders.
The following are approximate number of sts. You may use more or less,
according to the tension of your own work.
With K-10½ crochet hook, work approximately 40 sc around armholes. Work
a second row of sc, st for st. Fasten off. Work in sc around outside of
vest keeping work flat. Start at lower edge of left front, and work 63
(67-71) across bottom, 3 sc in corner, 25 up front, 3 at top corner, 20
on right side of neck, 12 across back of neck, 20 down left side of
neck, 3 at corner edge, 25 down left front, 2 in corner. Slip st to
first sc. Ch 1, and work a second row of sc around front and neck,
working 3 sc in each corner st.
TIES: Make 2—With K-10½ crochet hook, ch 41, turn, sl st in each ch
across.
Attach one to each side of neck edge.
Your Notes:
[Illustration: _Design by BARBARA O’BRIEN_]
YOUTHFUL LOOK
NOW IS THE TIME
TAM and SCARF
Materials required:
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
3-inch Hairpin Lace loom
Crochet Hook J or 10
Pom-Pon maker
4 ounces 4-ply Knitting Worsted for TAM
8 ounces 4-ply Knitting Worsted for SCARF
Gauge: 3 sc = 1 inch at center of strip.
Yarn is used double. Each loop has two strands of yarn but is still
called a single loop.
TAM: Make hairpin lace strips as follows:
1 strip of 30 loops
2 strips of 60 loops
2 strips of 90 loops
FIRST STRIP (30 lps): Thread a piece of yarn through all loops on one
side of strip and tie yarn tightly forming a circle. Attach ends at
center of strip together. Attach second strip (60 lps) by pulling 2 lps
of second strip through 1 lp of first strip with crochet hook, 1 lp of
first through 2 lps of second, until all loops are joined. Fasten end,
and sew center ends of strip together. Starting each strip in a
different place, join 3rd strip (90 lps) by pulling 2 lps of second
strip through 3 lps of third, and 3 lps of third through 2 lps of
second, all around. Fasten. Join fourth strip (90 lps) by pulling 3 lps
through 3 lps, all around. Fasten. Join 5th strip (60 lps) by pulling 3
lps of fourth through 2 lps of fifth, and 2 lps of fifth through 3 lps
of the fourth, all around. Fasten.
To finish last strip, pull 2 lps through 2 lps all around. Fasten off.
With J-10 crochet hook and yarn used double, work around edge of tam as
follows: Work 45 sc around. Join with a slip stitch. Work two more rows
of single crochet, stitch for stitch. Fasten off. Make a large pom-pon
with a Susan Bates or Marcia Lynn pom-pon maker and attach to top of
tam.
SCARF: Make 4 strips each of 150 loops. Lay two strips side by side on a
table. Keep in mind that each loop has two strands of yarn but is still
called a single loop. Put crochet hook through first 2 lps on first
strip. Now put hook through first 2 lps on second strip and pull them
through the 2 lps already on hook. With these 2 lps still on hook, pick
up the next 2 lps on first strip and pull them through. Continue in this
manner, alternating first and second strips, until all loops have been
worked. Fasten off as shown in basic directions. Join 3rd to 2nd and 4th
to 3rd strip in same manner as above. Finish outside edges by pulling 2
lps through 2 lps all the way to the top.
TO MAKE FRINGE. Wrap yarn around a six-inch cardboard 96 times. Cut at
one end. Each piece should measure 12 inches. Take 6 strands and fold
them in half. Pull folded end through work with crochet hook, drawing it
through about 2 inches. Then pull the 12 loose ends through this loop,
and pull until knot is formed. Space them—2 at each end of each strip,
making 8 at each end. Scarf may be made wider by adding more strips.
Your Notes:
[Illustration: _Designs by BARBARA O’BRIEN_]
FASHION SUCCESSORIES
Material Required
SUSAN BATES®
or
MARCIA LYNN®
Crochet Hook D or 3
1 Pack “Bone” rings—size desired
2 Yards Velvet Ribbon
4-ply Knitting Worsted—1 ounce
Working tightly, work 30 s c around first bone ring and join with a sl
st. Without breaking yarn, work 15 s c in next ring (to cover half) and
continue to work 15 s c in each ring until 19 rings are joined. Work 30
s c in last ring (20th), and then working down the other side, work 15 s
c in each ring (to cover other half) until all rings have been covered.
Weave in end of yarn. Slip ribbon in and out of each ring, leaving end
on each side long enough to make a bow. Belt may be made longer or
shorter by adding or subtracting rings in multiples of two. Always use
an even number of rings.
Covered Buttons
When making covered buttons, always use the smallest crochet hook
possible for the yarn you are using. Work should be firm to make a neat
button. Also, the cover should be a very tight fit. Lay yarn on table
and make a double loop. Pick loops up, and insert crochet hook, and
bring through a loop from ball end of yarn. Ch 1 to secure loop. Work 6
s c in loop. Pull short end until hole is completely closed. Fasten this
end off.
Round 2: Work 2 s c in each s c around.
Round 3: * Work 1 s c in first s c, 2 s c in next s c. Repeat from *
around (18 s c). If you are covering a larger button, continue to
increase 6 s c in each round until piece is size of top of button.
[Illustration: Woman’s Belt]
[Illustration: Covered Buttons & Rings]
Work one round even. Insert button mold and work around in s c,
decreasing 6 st each round until mold is covered as much as possible.
Break off, leaving an eight-inch length of yarn. Thread this on yarn
needle and weave around final edge, pulling in tightly. Fasten off.
Button Rings
With crochet hook, work as many s c around plastic ring as needed to
completely cover ring. Break off, leaving a 10-inch strand of yarn.
Thread this strand on a yarn needle and work in and out of every other
stitch around outside of ring. Carefully pull yarn until all sts are
turned to inside of ring. Fasten off. On larger rings where one row will
not fill up center, work a second row around, making a s c in every
other stitch before breaking off.
For a more decorative button, sew a rhinestone or colored stone to
center of button.
All directions in this book have been carefully checked for accuracy.
We cannot be responsible for human errors, or misinterpretation of
directions.
PUBLISHER:
C. J. BATES & SON, INC.
CHESTER, CONNECTICUT
06412
[Illustration: Back Cover]
Transcriber’s Notes
—Silently corrected a few typos.
—Relocated material “continued on remote page” (including all of page
22) for more conveniently-flowing text.
—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
is public-domain in the country of publication.
—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
_underscores_.
—Information typed into “Your Notes” boxes is not retained, but may be
printed before the page is refreshed.
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