| By Author | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Title | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Language |
|
Download this book: [ ASCII ] Look for this book on Amazon Tweet |
Title: The Handy Horse-book - or Practical Instructions in Driving, Riding, and the - General Care and Management of Horses. 4th ed.
Author: Mahon, Maurice Hartland
Language: English
As this book started as an ASCII text book there are no pictures available.
*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The Handy Horse-book - or Practical Instructions in Driving, Riding, and the - General Care and Management of Horses. 4th ed." ***
produced from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
THE HANDY HORSE-BOOK
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.
“Most certainly the above title is no misnomer, for the ‘Handy
Horse-Book’ is a manual of driving, riding, and the general care and
management of horses, evidently the work of no unskilled hand.”—_Bell’s
Life._
“As cavalry officer, hunting horseman, coach proprietor, whip, and
steeplechase rider, the author has had long and various experience in the
management of horses, and he now gives us the cream of his information
in a little volume, which will be to horse-keepers and horse-buyers
all that the ‘Handy Book on Property Law,’ by Lord St Leonards, has
for years past been to men of business. It does not profess to teach
the horse-keeper everything that concerns the beast that is one of the
most delicate as well as the noblest of animals; but it supplies him
with a number of valuable facts, and puts him in possession of leading
principles.”—_Athenæum._
“The writer shows a thorough knowledge of his subject, and he fully
carries out the object for which he professes to have undertaken his
task—namely, to render horse-proprietors independent of the dictations of
ignorant farriers and grooms.”—_Observer._
“We need only say that the work is essentially a _multum in parvo_, and
that a book more practically useful, or that was more required, could not
have possibly been written.”—_Irish Times._
“He propounds no theories, but embodies in simple and untechnical
language what he has learned practically; and a perusal of the volume
will at once testify that he is fully qualified for the task; and so
skilfully is the matter condensed that there is scarcely a single
sentence which does not convey sound and valuable information.”—_Sporting
Gazette._
“We can cordially recommend it as a book especially suited to the general
public, and not beneath the attention of ‘practical men.’”—_The Globe._
“Contains a very great modicum of information in an exceedingly small
space.... There can be little doubt that it will, when generally known,
become the established _vade mecum_ of the fox-hunter, the country
squire, and the trainer.”—_Army and Navy Gazette._
“A useful little work.... In the first part he gives just the amount of
information that will enable a man to work his horse comfortably, check
his groom, and generally know what he is about when riding, driving, or
choosing gear.”—_Spectator._
“This is a book to be read and re-read by all who take an interest in
the noble animal, as it contains a most comprehensive view of everything
appertaining to horse-flesh; and is, moreover, as fit for the library and
drawing-room as it is for the mess-table or the harness-room.”—_Sporting
Magazine._
“By all means buy the book; it will repay the outlay.”—_Land and Water._
[Illustration: DRAWING COVER]
THE
HANDY HORSE-BOOK
PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS IN DRIVING, RIDING,
AND THE GENERAL CARE AND
MANAGEMENT OF HORSES
BY
A CAVALRY OFFICER
FOURTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED
With Engravings
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS
EDINBURGH AND LONDON
MDCCCLXVIII
_The Right of Translation is reserved_
TO
MAJOR-GENERAL LORD GEORGE PAGET, C.B.
Inspector-General of Cavalry,
SON OF THE DISTINGUISHED HORSEMAN AND HERO WHO COMMANDED THE CAVALRY AT
WATERLOO, AND HIMSELF A LEADER AMONG THE “IMMORTAL SIX HUNDRED,”
THIS BOOK IS BY PERMISSION INSCRIBED,
IN TRIBUTE TO HIS SOLDIERLY QUALITIES, AND TO HIS CONSIDERATION FOR
THE NOBLE ANIMAL WHICH HAS CARRIED THE BRITISH CAVALRY THROUGH SO MANY
DANGERS TO SO MANY TRIUMPHS,
BY HIS LORDSHIP’S OBEDIENT SERVANT,
“MAGENTA.”
PREFACE.
Finding myself a standing reference among my friends and acquaintance on
matters relating to horse-flesh, and being constantly in the habit of
giving them advice verbally and by letter, I have been induced to comply
with repeated suggestions to commit my knowledge to paper, in the shape
of a Treatise or Manual.
When I say that my experience has been practically tested on the road,
in the field, on the turf (having been formerly a steeplechase rider,
as well as now a hunting horseman), with the ribbons, and in a cavalry
regiment, I must consider that, with an ardent taste for everything
belonging to horses thus nourished for years, I must either have sadly
neglected my opportunities, or have picked up some knowledge of the use
and treatment of the animal in question.[1]
Born and bred, I may say, in constant familiarity with a racing-stable,
and having been always devotedly attached to horses, the wrongs of those
noble animals have been prominently before my eyes, and I have felt an
anxious desire to see justice done to them, which, I am sorry to say,
according to my observation, is but too seldom the case; indeed, I have
often marvelled at the tractability of those powerful creatures under the
most perverted treatment by their riders and drivers.
My object, therefore, in offering the following remarks, is not to trench
upon the sphere of the professional veterinary surgeon or riding-master,
but to render horse-proprietors independent of the dictation of ignorant
farriers and grooms. Intending this little work merely as a useful
manual, I have purposely avoided technicalities, as belonging exclusively
to the professional man, and endeavoured to present my dissertations on
disease in the most comprehensive terms possible, proposing only simple
remedies as far as they go; though, for the satisfaction of my readers,
I may mention that, as an amateur, I have myself devoted much time and
thought to the study of anatomy, and that any treatment of disease herein
recommended has been carefully perused and approved by a veterinary
surgeon. Theories are excluded, and I confine myself simply to practical
rules founded on my own experience.
Hints and remarks are here offered to the general public, which, to
practical men, will appear trifling and unnecessary; but keen and
extended observation, carried on as opportunity offered, amongst all
classes and in many countries and climates, has given me an insight into
the want of reasoning exhibited by men of every station in dealing
with the noble and willing inmates of the stable, and has assisted in
suggesting the necessity for just such A B C instructions as are herein
presented by the Public’s very humble servant,
“MAGENTA.”[2]
PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION.
Increased attention having been directed to the necessity for greater
vigilance with regard to the breeding and production of good and useful
horses, many readers have expressed a wish that I would give some decided
views on these subjects; and concurring with them as to the exigency
of the case, I have ventured, in an additional chapter in this new and
Third Edition, to make a few remarks, which, although doubtless patent
to practical men, are naturally looked for by the public in this Manual,
which has been so favourably received.
“MAGENTA.”
PREFACE TO FOURTH EDITION.
The Third Edition of this little work, published so recently as April
last, being already out of print, the Author, in presenting a new one,
feels called upon gratefully to acknowledge this unusual mark of favour
on the part of the public.
LONDON, _November 1867_.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
PART I.
BREEDING, 1
SELECTING, 2
BUYING, 6
STABLING, 8
GROOMING, 12
HALTERING, 16
CLOTHING, 18
FEEDING, 20
WATERING, 25
GRAZING, 26
TRAINING, 28
EXERCISING, 31
WORK, 33
BRIDLING, 38
SADDLING, 43
RIDING, 49
HARNESSING, 56
DRIVING, 65
DRAWING, 72
SHOEING, 75
VICE, 84
SELLING, 89
CAPRICE, 90
IRISH HUNTERS, AND THE BREEDING OF GOOD HORSES, 93
PART II.
DISEASES, 101
OPERATIONS, 102
TO GIVE A BALL, 104
TO GIVE A DRENCH, 105
PURGING, 106
THE PULSE, 109
DISEASES OF THE HEAD AND RESPIRATORY ORGANS, 109
DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE AND URINARY ORGANS, 120
DISEASES OF THE FEET AND LEGS, 127
LOTIONS, PURGES, BLISTERS, ETC., 158
INDEX, 164
LIST OF PLATES.
DRAWING COVER, _frontispiece_.
THE HACK, _page_ 4
THE WEIGHT-CARRYING HUNTER, ” 6
RIDING AT IT, ” 53
THE PROPER FORM, ” 95
PREPARATORY CANTER, ” 99
THE HANDY HORSE-BOOK.
PART I.
BREEDING.
A few words only of observation would I make on this subject.[3]
Palpably our horses, especially racers and hunters, are degenerating in
size and power, owing mainly, it is to be feared, to the parents being
selected more for the reputation they have gained as winners carrying
feather-weights, than for any symmetrical development or evidence of
enduring power under the weight of a man. We English might take a useful
lesson in selecting parental stock from the French, who reject our theory
of breeding from animals simply because they have reputation in the
racing calendars, and who breed from none but those which have _shape_
and _power_, as well as blood and performance, to recommend them. They
are also particular to avoid using for stud purposes such animals as may
exhibit indications of any _constitutional unsoundness_.
SELECTING.
In selecting an animal, the character of the work for which he is
required should be taken into consideration. For example, in choosing
a hack, you will consider whether he is for riding or for draught. In
choosing a hunter, you must bear in mind the peculiar nature of the
country he will have to contend with.
A horse should at all times have sufficient _size_ and power for the
weight he has to move. It is an act of cruelty to put a small horse, be
his courage and breeding ever so good, to carry a heavy man or draw a
heavy load. With regard to colour, some sportsmen say, and with truth,
that “a good horse can’t be a bad colour, no matter what his shade.”
Objection may, however, be reasonably made to pie-balls, skew-balls, or
cream-colour, as being too conspicuous,—moreover, first-class animals of
these shades are rare; nor are the roan or mouse-coloured ones as much
prized as they should be.
Bay, brown, or dark chestnuts,[4] black or grey horses, are about the
most successful competitors in the market, and may be preferred in the
order in which they are here enumerated. Very light chestnut, bay,
and white horses are said to be irritable in temper and delicate in
constitution.[5]
Mares are objected to by some as being occasionally uncertain in
temper and vigour, and at times unsafe in harness, from constitutional
irritation. More importance is attached to these assumed drawbacks
than they deserve; and though the price of the male is generally from
one-fourth to one-sixth more than that of the female, the latter will be
found to get through ordinary work quite as well as the former.
_To judge of the Age by the Teeth._—The permanent nippers, or front
teeth, in the lower jaw, are six. The two front teeth are cut and placed
at from two to three years of age; the next pair, at each side of the
middle ones, at from three and a half to four; and the corner pair
between four and a half and five years of age, when the tusks in the male
are also produced.
The marks or cavities in these nippers are effaced in the following
order:—At six years old they are worn out in the two centre teeth, at
seven in the next pair, and at eight in the corner ones, when the horse
is described as “aged.”
After this, as age advances, these nippers appear to change gradually
year by year from an oval to a more detached and triangular form, till
at twenty their appearance is completely triangular. After six the tusks
become each year more blunt, and the grooves, which at that age are
visible inside, gradually wear out.
_The Hack to Ride._—A horse with a small well-shaped head seldom proves
to be a bad one; therefore such, with small fine ears, should be sought
in the first instance.
It is particularly desirable that the shoulder of a riding hack should
be light and well-placed. A high-withered horse is by no means the best
for that purpose. Let the shoulder-blades be well slanted as the horse
stands, their points light in front towards the chest. Nor should there
be too wide a front; for such width, though well enough for draught, is
not necessary in a riding-horse, provided the chest and girth be _deep_.
As a matter of course the animal should be otherwise well formed, with
rather long pasterns (before but not behind),—the length of which
increases the elasticity of his movement on hard roads. His action should
be independent and high, bending the knees. If he cannot walk well—in
fact, with action so light that, as the dealers say, “he’d hardly break
an egg if he trod on it”—raising his legs briskly off the ground, when
simply led by the halter (giving him his head)—in other words, if he
walks “close to the ground”—he should be at once rejected.
With regard to the other paces, different riders have different fancies:
the trot and walk I consider to be the only important paces for a
gentleman’s ordinary riding-horse. It is very material, in selecting a
riding-horse, to observe how he holds his head in his various paces; and
to judge of this the intending purchaser should remark closely how he
works on the bit when ridden by the rough-rider, and he should also pay
particular attention to this point when he is himself on his back, before
selection is made.[6]
[Illustration: THE HACK]
Respecting soundness, though feeling fully competent myself to judge
of the matter, I consider the half-guinea fee to a veterinary surgeon
well-laid-out money, to obtain his professional opinion and a certificate
of the state of an animal, when purchasing a horse of any value.
_The Hack for Draught_ ought to be as well formed as the one just
described; but a much heavier shoulder and forehand altogether are
admissible.
No one should ever for a moment think of putting any harness-horse into
a private vehicle, no matter what his seller’s recommendation, without
first having him out in a single or double break, as the case may be, and
seeing him driven, as well as driving him himself, to make acquaintance
with the animal—in fact, _to find him out_.
_The Hunter_, like the hack, should be particularly well-formed before
the saddle. He should be deep in the girth, strong in the loins, with
full development of thigh, short and flat in the canon joint from the
knee to the pastern, with large flat hocks and sound fore legs. This
animal, like the road-horse, should lift his feet clear of the ground and
walk independently, with evidence of great propelling power in the hind
legs when put into a canter or gallop.
A differently-shaped animal is required for each kind of country over
which his rider has to be carried. In the midland counties and Yorkshire,
the large three-quarter or thorough-bred horse only will be found to have
pace and strength enough to keep his place. In close countries, such as
the south, south-west, and part of the north of England, a plainer-bred
and closer-set animal does best.
In countries where the fences are height jumps—a constant succession of
timber, or stone walls—one must look for a certain angularity of hip, not
so handsome in appearance, but giving greater leverage to lift the hind
legs over that description of fence.
A hunter should be all action; for if the rider finds he can be carried
safely across country, he will necessarily have more confidence, and
go straighter, not therefore requiring so much pace to make up for
round-about “gating” gaps and “craning.”[7]
BUYING.
If you propose purchasing from a dealer, take care to employ none but
a respectable man. It is also well to get yourself introduced to such
a one, by securing the good offices of some valuable customer of his
for the purpose; for such an introduction will stimulate any dealer who
values his character to endeavour by his dealings to sustain it with his
patron.
[Illustration: THE WEIGHT-CARRYING HUNTER]
_Auction._—An auction is a dangerous place for the uninitiated to
purchase at. If, however, it should suit you to buy in that manner,
the best course to pursue is to visit the stables on the days previous
to the sale, for in all well-regulated repositories the horses are in
for private inspection from two to three days before the auction-day.
Taking, if possible, one good judge with you, eschewing the opinions of
all grooms and others—in fact, fastening the responsibility of selection
on the one individual—make for yourself all the examination you possibly
can, in or out of stable, of the animal you think likely to suit you.
There is generally _a way_ of finding out some of the antecedents of the
horses from the men about the establishment.
_Fairs._—To my mind it is preferable to purchase at fairs rather than
at an auction: indeed, a judge will there have much more opportunity of
comparison than elsewhere.
_Private Purchase._—In buying from a private gentleman or acquaintance,
it is not unusual to get a horse on trial for three or four days. Many
liberal dealers, if they have faith in the animal they want to dispose
of, and in the intending purchaser, will permit the same thing.
_Warranty._—As observed under the head of “Selecting,” it is never wise
to conclude the purchase of a horse without having him examined by a
professional veterinary surgeon, and getting a certificate of his actual
state. If the animal be a high-priced one, a warranty should be claimed
from the seller as a _sine qua non_; and if low-priced, a professional
certificate is desirable, stating the extent of unsoundness, for your own
satisfaction.[8]
STABLING.
_Ventilation_ is a matter of the first importance in a stable. The means
of ingress and egress of air should be always three or four feet higher
than the range of the horses’ heads, for two simple reasons: first,
when an animal comes in warm, it is not well to have cold air passing
directly on the heated surface of his body; and, in the second place,
the foul air, being the lightest, always ascends, and you give it the
readiest mode of exit by placing the ventilation high up. The common
louver window, which can never be completely closed, is the best ordinary
ventilator.
_Drainage_ ought to be closely investigated. The drains should run
so as to remove the traps or grates outside the stable, or as far as
possible from the horses, in order to keep the effluvium _away_ from
them. All foul litter and mass should be removed frequently during the
day; straw and litter ought not to be allowed to remain under a horse
in the daytime, unless it be considered expedient that he should rest
lying down, in which case let him be properly bedded and kept as quiet
as possible. In many cases the practice of leaving a small quantity of
litter in the stall is a fine cloak for deposit and urine left unswept
underneath, emitting that noxious ammonia with which the air of most
stables is so disagreeably impregnated that on entering them from the
fresh air you are almost stifled.
Masters who object to their horses standing on the bare pavement can
order that, after the stall is thoroughly cleaned and swept out, a thin
layer of straw shall be laid over the stones during the daytime. In
dealers’ and livery stables, and indeed in some gentlemen’s, the pavement
is sanded over, which has a nice appearance, and prevents slipping.
When the foul litter is abstracted, and the straw bedding taken from
under the horse, none of it should be pushed away under the manger;
let it be entirely removed: and in fair weather, or where a shed is
available, the bedding should be shaken out, to thoroughly dry and let
the air pass through it.
Wheaten is more durable than oaten straw for litter: but the fibre
of the former is so strong that it will leave marks on the coat of a
fine-skinned animal wherever it may be unprotected by the clothing;
however, this is not material.
_Light_ should be freely admitted into stables, not only that the grooms
may be able to see to clean the horses properly, and to do all the
stable-work, but if horses are kept in the dark it is natural that they
should be more easily startled when they go into full daylight,—and such
is always the consequence of badly-lighted stables. Of course, if a horse
is ailing, and sleep is absolutely necessary for him, he should be placed
separate in a dark quiet place.
_Stalls_ should be wide, from six to seven feet across if possible,
yielding this in addition to other advantages, that if the partitions
are extended by means of bars to the back wall, either end stall can be
turned into a loose-box sufficiently large to serve in an emergency.
_A Loose-Box_ is unquestionably preferable to a stall (in which a horse
is tied up all the time he is not at work in nearly the same position),
and is indispensable in cases of illness. Loose-boxes should be paved
with narrow bricks; and when prepared for the reception of an animal
whose shoes have been removed, the floor should be covered with sawdust
or tan, or either of these mixed with fine sandy earth, or, best of all,
peat-mould when procurable,—any of which, where the indisposition is
confined to the feet _only_, may be kept slightly moistened with water to
cool them.
In cases of general illness, straw should be used for bedding; and where
the poor beast is likely to injure himself in paroxysms of pain, the
walls or partitions should be well padded in all parts within his reach,
and as a further precaution let the door be made to open outwards, and be
fastened by a bolt, as latches sometimes cause accidents.
_Partitions_ should be carried high enough towards the head to prevent
the horses from being able to bite one another, or get at each other’s
food.
With regard to stable-kickers, see the remarks on this subject under the
head of “Vice” (page 85).
_Racks and Mangers_ are now made of iron, so that horses can no longer
gnaw away the manger piecemeal. Another improvement is that of placing
the rack on a level with and beside the manger, instead of above the
horses’ heads; but notwithstanding this more reasonable method of feeding
hay when whole, it is far preferable to give it as manger-food cut into
chaff.
_Flooring._—In the construction of most stables a cruel practice is
thoughtlessly adopted by the way of facilitating drainage (and in
dealers’ stables to make horses look large), viz., that of raising the
paving towards the manger considerably above the level of the rear part.
It should be borne in mind that the horse is peculiarly sensitive to any
strain on the insertions of the back or flexor tendons of his legs. Thus
in stalls formed as described, you will see the creature endeavouring to
relieve himself by getting his toes down between the flags or stones (if
the pavement will admit) with the heels resting upon the edges of them;
and if the fastening to the head be long enough he will draw back still
farther, until he can get his toes down into the drain-channel behind his
stall, with the heels upon the opposite elevation of the drain. Proper
pavement in your stable will help to alleviate a tendency towards what is
called “clap of the back sinew.”—See page 143.
The slope of an inch and a half or two inches is sufficient for purposes
of drainage in paving stables; but if the drainage can be managed so as
to allow of the flooring being made quite level, so much the better.
Should my reader be disposed to build stabling, he cannot do better than
consult the very useful and practical work entitled ‘Stonehenge, or the
Horse in the Stable and in the Field.’
The horse being a gregarious animal, and much happier in society than
alone, will, in the absence of company of his own species, make friends
with the most sociable living neighbour he can find. A horse should not
be left solitary if it can be avoided.
_Dogs_ should never be kept in the stable with horses, or be permitted
to be their playfellows, on account of the noxious emissions from their
excrement. _Cats_ are better and more wholesome companions.
GROOMING.
I do not profess to teach grooms their business, but to put masters on
their guard against the common errors and malpractices of that class; and
with a view to that end, two or three general rules are added which a
master would do well to enforce on a groom when hiring him, as binding,
under pain of dismissal.
1. Never to doctor a horse himself, but to acquaint his master
immediately with any accident, wound, or symptom of indisposition
about the animal, that may come under his observation, and which, if
in existence, ought not to fail to attract the attention of a careful,
intelligent servant during constant handling of and attendance on his
charge.
2. Always to exercise the horses in the place appointed by his master for
the purpose, and _never_ to canter or gallop them.
3. To stand by while a horse is having its shoes changed or removed, and
see that any directions he may have received on the subject are carried
out.
4. Never to clean a horse out of doors.
These rules are recommended under a just appreciation of that golden one,
“Prevention is better than cure.”
If the master is satisfied with an ill-groomed horse, nine-tenths of the
grooms will be so likewise; therefore he may to a great extent blame
himself if his bearer’s dressing is neglected.
Grooms are especially fond of using water in cleaning the horse (though
often rather careful how they use it with themselves, either inside or
out): it saves them trouble, to the great injury of the animal. The same
predominating laziness which prompts them to use water for the removal of
mud, &c., in preference to employing a dry wisp or brush for the purpose,
forbids their exerting themselves to employ the proper means of drying
the parts cleaned by wet. They will have recourse to any expedient to dry
the skin rather than the legitimate one of friction. Over the body they
will place cloths to soak up the wet; on the legs they will roll their
favourite bandages. It is best, therefore, to forbid the use of water
above the hoof for the purpose of cleaning—except with the mane and tail,
which should be properly washed with soap and water occasionally.
When some severe work has been done, so as to occasion perspiration, the
ears should not be more neglected than the rest of the body; and when
they are dried by hand-rubbing and pulling, the horse will feel refreshed.
As already recommended, cleaning out of doors should be forbidden. If one
could rely on the discretion of servants, cleaning might be done outside
occasionally in fine weather; but licence on this score being once given,
the probability is that your horse will be found shivering in the open
air on some inclement day.
The groom always uses a picker in the process of washing and cleaning
the feet, to dislodge all extraneous matter, stones, &c., that may have
been picked up in the clefts of the frog and thereabouts; he also washes
the foot with a long-haired brush. In dry weather, after heavy work, it
is good to stop the fore feet with what is called “stopping” (cow-dung),
which is not difficult to procure. Wet clay is sometimes used in London
for the purpose in the absence of cow-dung. Very useful, too, in such
case will be found a stopping composed of one part linseed-meal to two
parts bran, wetted, and mixed to a sticking consistency.
The evidence of care in the groomed appearance of the mane and tail
looks well. An occasional inspection of the mane by the master may be
desirable, by turning over the hairs to the reverse side; any signs of
dirt or dandriff found cannot be creditable to the groom.
_Bandaging._—When a hunter comes in from a severe day, it is an excellent
plan to put _rough_ bandages (provided for the purpose) on the legs,
leaving them on while the rest of the body is cleaning; it will be found
that the mud and dirt of the legs will to a great extent fall off in
flakes on their removal, thus reducing the time employed in cleaning.
When his legs are cleaned and well hand-rubbed, put on the usual-sized
flannel bandages. They should never remain on more than four or six
hours, and when taken off (not to be again used till the next severe
work) the legs should be once more hand-rubbed.
Bandages ought not to be used under other circumstances than the above,
except by order of a veterinary surgeon for unsoundness.
In some cases of unsoundness—such as undue distension of the bursæ,
called “wind-galls,” the effect of work—a linen or cotton bandage kept
continually saturated with water, salt and water, or vinegar, and not
much tightened, may remain on the affected legs; but much cannot be said
for the efficacy of the treatment.
For what is called “clap,” or supposed distension of the back sinew
(which is in reality no distension of the tendon, as that is said to be
impossible, though some of its fibres may be injured, but inflammation of
the sheath through which the tendon passes), the cold lotion bandaging
just described, in connection with the directions given under the head of
“Shoeing” (page 82), will be found very serviceable.
_Grooms’ Requisites_ are usually understood to comprise the following
articles:—a body-brush, water-brush, dandriff or “dander” brush,
picker, scraper, mane-comb, curry-comb, pitchfork, shovel and broom,
manure-basket, chamois-leather, bucket, sponges, dusters, corn-sieve, and
measures; leather boot for poultices, clyster syringe (requiring especial
caution in use—_see_ page 159, note), drenching-horn, bandages (woollen
and linen); a box with a supply of stopping constantly at hand; a small
store of tow and tar, most useful in checking the disease called thrush
(page 135) before it assumes a chronic form; a lump of rock-salt, ready
to replace those which should be always kept in the mangers to promote
the general health of the animals as well as to amuse them by licking
it; a lump of chalk, ready at any time for use (in the same manner as
rock-salt) in the treatment of some diseases, as described, pages 154 and
160.
_Singeing_, there is little doubt, tends to improve the condition of the
animal; so much so, that timid users do well to remember that animals
which, before the removal of their winter coat, required perpetual
reminders of the whip, will, directly they are divested of that covering,
evince a spirit, vigour, and endurance which had remained, perhaps, quite
unsuspected previously. In fact, in most cases, the general health and
appetite seem to be improved.
Singeing, when severe rapid work is done, enables the horse to perform
his task with less distress, and when it is over, facilitates his being
made comfortable in the shortest possible space of time.
Singeing, if done early in the winter, requires to be repeated lightly
three or four times during the season.
_Clipping_ has exactly the same effect as the above, and is preferable
to it only in cases where, the animal’s coat being extremely long, extra
labour, loss of time, and flame, are avoided by the clipping process.
Singeing is best with the lighter coats, but sometimes thin skinned and
coated animals are too nervous and excitable to bear the flame near them
for this purpose, in which case the cause of alarm ought obviously to be
avoided, and clipping resorted to.
It is worth while to employ the best manipulators to perform these
operations.
With horses intended for slow and easy work, and liable to continued
exposure to the weather, singeing or clipping only the under part of the
belly, and the long hairs of the legs, will suffice. Unless neatly and
tastily done, this is very unsightly on a gentleman’s horse. Clipping, if
not done till the beginning of December, seldom requires repetition.
In stony and rough countries, it is the habit of judicious horsemen to
leave the hair on their hunters’ legs from the knees and hocks down, as a
protection to them.
HALTERING.
_The Head-Stall_ should fit a horse, and have a proper brow-band; it
is ridiculous to suppose that the same sized one can suit all heads.
Ordinary head-stalls have only one buckle, which is on the throat-lash
near-side; and if the stall be made to _fit_, that is sufficient.
_Otherwise_ there should be three buckles, one on each side of the
cheek-straps, besides the one on the throat-lash.
Let the fastening from the head-stall to the log be of rope or leather.
Chain fastenings are objectionable, because, besides being heavy, they
are very apt to catch in the ring, and they make a fearful noise,
especially where there are many horses in the stable. By having rope or
leather as a fastener, instead of chain, the log may be lighter (of wood
instead of iron), and the less weight there is to drag the creature’s
head down, the less the distress to him. Poll-evil (page 117), it is
said, has frequently resulted from the pressure of the head-stall on the
poll, occasioned by heavy pendants.
Chains are more durable, and that is all that can be said in their
favour, except that they may be necessary for a few vicious devils who
are up to the trick of severing the rope or leather with their teeth.
See that the log is sufficiently heavy to keep the rope or leather at
stretch, and that the manger-ring is large enough to allow the fastening
to pass freely. If the log is too light, or the manger-ring too small,
the likely result will be that the log will remain close up under the
ring, the fastening falling into a sort of loop, through which the horse
most probably introduces his foot, and, in his consequent alarm and
efforts to disentangle his legs, chucks up his head, and away he goes on
his side, gets “_halter-cast_,” most likely breaks one of his hind legs
in his struggles to regain his footing, or at least dislocates one of
their joints.
CLOTHING.
Opinions differ materially as to the amount of clothing that ought to
be used in the stable. My view of the matter is, that a stable being,
as it should be, thoroughly ventilated, necessitates the horses in it
being to a certain extent kept warm by clothing. An animal that has not
been divested of his own coat by clipping or singeing, will require very
little covering indeed; for nature’s provision, being sufficient to
protect him out of doors, ought surely to suffice in the stable, with
a very slight addition of clothing. If he has been clipped or singed,
covering enough to make up for what he has lost ought to be ample: by
going beyond this the horse is only made tender, and more susceptible of
the influences of the atmosphere when he comes to be exposed to it with
only a saddle on his back.
In parts of North America, I have observed, where the stables are built
roughly of wood, with many fissures to admit the weather, horses are
seldom, if ever, sheeted. They are certainly rarely divested of their
coats; but during work, as occasion may require, it is usual for the
rider, when stopping at any place, to leave his horse “hitched” (as they
call it) to any convenient post or tree, in all weathers, and for any
length of time, and these horses scarcely ever catch cold.
The best _Sheet_ is formed of a rug (sizeable enough to meet across the
breast and extend to the quarters), by simply cutting the slope of the
neck out of it, and fastening the points across the breast by two straps
and buckles.
The _Hood_ need only be used when the horse is at walking exercise, or
likely to be exposed to weather, or for the purpose of sweating, when a
couple of them, with two or three sheets, may be used.—_See_ page 32.
Horse-clothing should be, at least once a-week, taken _outside_ the
stable, and well beaten and _shaken_ like a carpet.
_Rollers_ should be looked to from time to time, to see that the pads
of the roller _do not meet within three or four inches_ (over the
backbone),—in other words, there should be always a clear channel over
it, nearly large enough to pass the handle of a broom through, so as
to avoid the possibility of the upper part of the roller even touching
the sheet over the spinal ridge, which, if permitted, will be sure to
cause a sore back, to the great injury of the horse and his master,
arousing vicious habits in the former to resent any touch, necessary or
unnecessary, of the sore place on so sensitive a part, and rendering
him irritable when clothing, saddling, or harnessing, or if a hand even
approach the tender place.
This is so troublesome a consequence of not paying attention to the
padding of rollers, that a master will do well to examine them himself
for his own satisfaction.
_Knee-Caps._—On all occasions when a valuable horse is taken by a servant
on road or rail, his knees should be protected by caps. The only way to
secure them is to fasten them tightly _above_ the knee, where elastic
straps are decidedly preferable, leaving the fastening below the knee
slack.
_A Leather Boot_, lined with sponge, or one of felt with a strong leather
sole, should be ready in every stable to be used as required, in cases of
sudden foot-lameness.
FEEDING.
The cavalry allowances are 12 lb. hay, 10 lb. oats, and 8 lb. straw
daily, which, I know by experience, will keep a healthy animal in
condition with the work required from a dragoon horse, of the severity of
which none but those acquainted with that branch of the service have any
idea.
Until he is perfectly fit for the ranks, between riding-school,
field-days, and drill, the troop-horse has quite work enough for any
beast. I may add that few horses belonging to officers of cavalry get
more than the above allowance, unless when _regularly_ hunted, in which
case additional corn and beans are given.
With severe work, 14 lb. to 16 lb. of oats, and 12 lb. of hay, which is
the general allowance in well-regulated hunting-stables, ought to be
sufficient. Beans are also given in small quantity.
Some persons feed their horses three times a-day, but it is better to
divide their food into four daily portions, watering them, at least half
an hour before each feed.
The habit which some grooms have of feeding while they are teazing an
animal with the preliminaries of cleaning, is very senseless, as the
uneasiness horses are sure to exhibit under anything like grooming causes
them to knock about their heads and scatter their food. On a journey,
according to the call upon the system by the increased amount of work,
so should the horse’s feeding be augmented by one-third, one-fourth, or
one-half more than usual. A few beans or pease may well be added under
such circumstances.
In stables where the stalls are divided by bales or swinging-bars, the
horses when feeding should have their heads so tied as to prevent them
from consuming their neighbour’s food, or the result would be that the
greedy or more rapid eaters would succeed in devouring more than their
fair share, while the slower feeders would have to go on short commons.
_Oats_ ought _always_ to be _bruised_, as many horses, whether from
greediness in devouring their food, or from their teeth being incapable
of grinding, swallow them whole; and it is a notorious fact that oats,
unless masticated, pass right through the animal undigested.
When supplies have been very deficient with forces in the field, the
camp-followers have been known to exist upon the grain extracted from the
droppings of the horses.
It should be remembered that not more than at the utmost two days’
consumption of oats should be bruised at a time, as they soon turn sour
in that state, and are thus unfit for the use of that most delicate
feeder, the horse. All oats before being bruised should be well sifted,
to dispose of the gravel and dust which are always present in the grain
as it comes from the farmer. Unbruised oats, if ever used, should be
similarly prepared before being given in feed.
_Hay_ ought always to be cut into chaff or may be mixed with the corn,
which is the only way to insure the proper proportion being given at a
feed. When the hay is not cut but fed from the rack, never more than 3
lb. should be put in the rack at a time. If desirable to give as much as
12 lb. daily, let the rack be filled six times in twenty-four hours.
_Beans_ must be invariably split or bruised. It is better to give a
higher price for English beans than to use the Egyptian at any price; the
latter are said to be impregnated with the eggs of insects, which adhere
to the lining of the horse’s stomach, causing him serious injury. In
India horses are principally fed on a kind of small pea called “gram”—in
the United States their chief food is maize; the oat-plant not succeeding
well in either of those regions.
_Bran._—Food should be varied occasionally, and all horses not actually
in training ought to have a bran-mash once a-week. The best time to give
this is for the first feed after the work is done, on the day preceding
the rest day, whenever that may be.
Even hunters, after a hard day, will eat the bran with avidity, and it is
well to give it for the first meal. Its laxative qualities render it a
sedative and cooler in the half-feverish state of system induced by the
exertion and excitement of the chase; and according to my experience,
if given just after the work is done, the digestive process, relaxed by
the bran, has full time to recover itself by the grain-feeding before
the next call is made on the horse’s powers. If the bran is not liked, a
little bruised oats may be mixed through it to tempt the palate. Whole
grains of oats should never be mixed with bran, as they must of necessity
be bolted with the latter, and passed through the animal entire.
_Mash._—When only doing ordinary work, the following mash should be given
to each horse on Saturday night after work, supposing your beasts to rest
on Sunday:—
Put half a pint of linseed in a two-quart pan with an even edge; pour on
it one quart of boiling water, cover it close, and leave to soak for four
hours.
At the same time moisten half a bucket of bran with a gallon of water.
When the linseed has soaked for four hours, a hole must be made in the
middle of the bran, and the linseed mass mixed into the bran mass. The
whole forms one feed. Should time be an object, boil slowly half a pint
of linseed in two quarts of water, and add it to half a bucket of bran
which had been previously steeped for half an hour or an hour in a gallon
of water.
If a cold is present, or an animal is delicate, the bran can be saturated
with boiling water, of which a little more can be added to warm it when
given.
_Carrots_, when a horse is delicate, will be found acceptable, and
are both nutritious and wholesome as food. In spring and summer, when
vetches or other green food can be had, an occasional treat of that sort
conduces to health where the work is sufficiently moderate to admit
of soft feeding. When horses are coating in spring or autumn, or weak
from fatigue or delicacy, the addition to their food of a little more
nutriment may be found beneficial. The English white pea is milder and
not so heating as beans, and may be given half a pint twice daily, mixed
with the ordinary feeding, for from one to three or four weeks, as may be
deemed advisable.
When an animal is “off his feed,” as it is called, attention should be
immediately directed to his manger, which is often found to be shamefully
neglected, the bottom of it covered with gravel, or perhaps the ends
and corners full of foul matter, such as the sour remains of the last
bran-mash and other half-masticated leavings.
The introduction of any greasy or fetid matter into a horse’s food will
effectually prevent this dainty creature from touching it. It used to be
a common practice at hostelries in the olden time, to rub the teeth of a
traveller’s horse with a tallow candle or a little oil; thus causing the
poor beast to leave his food untouched for the benefit of his unfeeling
attendant.
Again, the oats or hay may be found, on close examination, to be musty,
which causes them to be rejected by the beast.
Where no palpable cause for loss of appetite can be discovered, reference
should be made to a qualified veterinary surgeon, who will examine the
animal’s mouth, teeth, and general state of health, and probably report
that the lining of the cheeks is highly inflamed in some part, owing
to undue angularity or decay of the teeth, and he will know how to act
accordingly.
When horses are on a journey, or a long ride home after hunting, some
people recommend the use of gruel; but, from experience, I prefer giving
a handful of wetted hay in half a bucket of _tepid_ water, or ale or
porter.—_See_ page 37.
_Feeding on Board Ship_ should be confined to chaff and bran, mixed with
about one-fourth the usual quantity of _bruised_ oats.
Though horses generally look well when “full of flesh,” there are many
reasons why they should not be allowed to become fat after the fashion
of a farmer’s “stall-feds.” Some really good grooms think this form of
condition the pink of perfection. They are mistaken. An animal in such
a state is quite unfit to travel at any fast pace or bear continued
exertion without injury, and may therefore be considered so far useless.
He is also much more liable to contract disease, and if attacked by such
the constitution succumbs more readily.
Moreover, the superfluous weight of the cumbrous flesh and fat tends to
increase the wear and tear of the legs; and if the latter be at all light
from the knee to the pastern, they are more likely to suffer.
On the other hand, it may be well to observe, by way of caution, that it
is by no means good management to let a horse become at any time reduced
to _actual leanness_ through overwork or deficient feeding. _It is far
easier to pull down than to put up flesh_.
These hints on feeding may be closed with a remark, that in all large
towns _contractors_ are to be found ready and willing to enter into
contract for feeding gentlemen’s horses by the month or year. This is
a very desirable arrangement for masters, but one frequently objected
to by servants, who, however, in such cases can easily be replaced by
application to the dealer, he having necessarily excellent opportunities
of meeting with others as efficient.
Contractors should not be allowed to supply more than two or three days’
forage at a time.
WATERING.
Horses are greater epicures in water than is generally supposed, and
will make a rush for some favourite spring or rivulet where water
may have once proved acceptable to their palate, when that of other
drinking-places has been rejected or scarcely touched.
The groom’s common maxim is to water twice a-day, but there is little
doubt that horses should have access to water more frequently, being,
like ourselves or any other animal, liable from some cause—some slight
derangement of the stomach, for instance—to be more thirsty at one time
than another; and it is a well-known fact that, where water is easily
within reach, these creatures never take such a quantity at a time as
to unfit them for _moderate work_ at any moment. If an arrangement for
continual access to water be not convenient, horses should be watered
before every feed, or at least thrice a-day, the first time being in the
morning, an hour before feeding (which hour will be employed in grooming
the beast); and it may be observed that there is no greater aid to
increasing their disposition to put up flesh, than giving them as much
water as they like before and after every feed.
A horse should never be watered when heated, or on the eve of any
extraordinary exertion. Animals that are liable to colic or gripes,
or are under the effect of medicines, particularly such as act on the
alimentary canal, and predispose to those affections, should get water
with the chill off.
_Watering in Public Troughs_, or places where every brute that travels
the road has access, must be strictly avoided. Glanders, farcy, and other
infectious diseases may be easily contracted in this way.
GRAZING.
The advantage of grazing, as a change for the better in any, and indeed
in every, case where the horse may be thrown out of sorts by accident or
disease, becomes very questionable, on account of the _artificial state_
in which he must have been kept, to enable him to meet the requirements
of a master of the present day in work. If the change be recommended to
restore the feet or legs, this object may be attained, and much better,
by keeping the creature in a loose-box without shoes, on a floor covered
with sawdust or tan, kept damp as directed (page 10), to counteract
whatever slight inflammation may be in the feet and legs, or, best of
all, covered with peat-mould, as this does not require to be damped,
and the animal can lie down on it; besides, the properties of the peat
neutralise the noxious ammonia, and it does not consequently require to
be so often renewed. In the loose-box also he can take quite as much
exercise as is necessary for an invalid intended to be laid up, and there
he can be supplied with whatever grain, roots, or succulent food may be
deemed necessary.
As for any other advantage to be derived from a run at grass, unless for
the purpose of using the herb as an alterative, I never could see it:
and even this end, unless the horse has a paddock to himself, can hardly
be gained; for if there are too many beasts for the production of the
ground, the fare must be scanty, and each animal half starved.
The disadvantages of changing a horse to grass from the artificial state
of condition are the following:—
1. That condition is sure to be lost (at least as far as it is necessary
to fit for work, especially to go across country at a hunting pace,
with safety to himself and his rider), and not to be regained for a
considerable time, and at great cost.
2. The horse is exceedingly liable to meet with accident from the
playfulness or temper of his companions.
3. Worms of the most dangerous and pertinacious description are picked up
nowhere but at grass.
4. Many ailments are contracted from exposure and hardship or bad
feeding; and owing to the animal being removed from under immediate
inspection, such ailments gain ground before they are observed. Moreover,
at grass the horse is more exposed to contagious and epidemic diseases.
5. Horses suffer great annoyance from flies in summer time, not having
long tails like horned cattle to reach every part of their body; and
wherever any superficial sore may be present, the flies are sure to find
it out.
As to aged animals, it is sheer cruelty (practised by some masters with
the best intentions and worst possible results) to turn them out to
grass. Such creatures have probably been accustomed in the earlier part
of their lives to warm stables, their food put under their noses, good
grooming, and proper care. You might just as well turn out a gentleman in
his old age among a tribe of friendly savages, unclad and unsheltered,
to exist upon whatever roots and fruits he could pick up, as expose a
highly-bred and delicately-nurtured old horse to the vicissitudes and
hardships of a life at grass.
TRAINING.
RAREY’S SYSTEM.
The principle of this system is that of overpowering the horse that may
in some instances have even become dangerous and useless, from having
learned the secret that _his strength gives him an advantage over his
master_—man. _Unconsciously_ deprived of his power of resistance, his
courage vanishes; the spirit which rose against all _accountable_ efforts
to subdue it, that would scorn to yield to overweight, pace, work, or
any other _evidence_ of man’s power, and which in the well-dispositioned
animal causes him to strain every nerve to meet what is required of him
rather than succumb, is by Rarey’s system subdued through a ruse so
effected that the power which overwhelms all the creature’s efforts at
resistance appears to originate and be identified with the man who can
thus, for the first time, take liberties with him, which he has lost the
power of resenting; and man thenceforward becomes his master. The method
pursued by Mr Rarey in subduing such a vicious and ungovernable horse as
Cruiser, is this: Placing himself under a waggon laden with hay, to which
the animal is partly coaxed, partly led by guide-ropes, and stealing his
fingers through the spokes of the waggon-wheel, he raises and gently
straps up one fore leg, and fastens a long strap round the fetlock of the
other, the end of which he holds in his hand and checks when necessary.
The beast, thus unconsciously tampered with, is quite disposed to resent
in his usual style the subsequent impertinent familiarities of his tamer;
but being by the foregoing precautions cast prostrate on his first
attempt to move, and finding all his efforts to regain his liberty and
carry out reprisals abortive, worn-out and hopeless, he at length yields
himself helplessly to his victor’s obliging attentions, of sitting on him
as he lies, drumming and fiddling in his ears, &c., and is thenceforward
man’s obedient and tractable servant.
There is no doubt that Mr Rarey’s plan of thus overcoming the unruly or
vicious beast by mild but effectual means, is the right one to gain the
point, _as far as it goes_; but breaking him in to saddle or draught,
improving his paces, or having ability in riding or driving any horse
judiciously, must be considered another affair, and only to be acquired
through more or less competent instruction, and by practice combined with
taste.
In training, the use of a dumb jockey[9] will be found most serviceable
to get the head into proper position, and to bend the neck. Two hours
a-day in this gear, while the horse is either loose in a box or fastened
to the pillar-reins if in a stall, will not at all interfere with his
regular training, exercise, or work, and will materially aid the former
result.
I greatly advocate the use of the dumb jockey without springs, even with
formed horses, who, being daily used to it, need no such adjuncts as
bearing-reins, but will arch their necks, work nicely on the bit, and
exhibit an altered show and style in action that is very admirable in a
gentleman’s equipage.
Should my reader be much interested in breaking-in rough colts, I
recommend him to consult ‘Stonehenge,’ by J. H. Walsh, F.R.C.S., editor
of the ‘Field.’
_Training for Draught._—Before the first trial in the break-carriage,
give your horse from half-an-hour to an hour’s quiet ringing in the
harness, to which he should have been previously made accustomed by
wearing it for a couple of hours the two or three preceding days. The
first start should be in a regular break, or strong but inexpensive
vehicle, and stout harness, with also saving-collar, knee-caps, and
kicking-strap—no bearing-rein. He should be led by ropes or reins (in
single harness on both sides of the head), and tried on a level, or
rather down than up a slight inclination. The place selected should be
one where there is plenty of unoccupied roadway.
Better begin in double harness, and let the break-horse with which the
driver is to start the carriage be strong and willing, so as to pull away
the untried one.
_The Neck_ usually suffers during the first few lessons in training
to harness; and until that part of it where the collar wears becomes
thoroughly hardened by use, it should be bathed with a strong solution
of salt and water _before_ the collar is taken off, that there may be no
mistake about its being done at once. Should there be the least abrasion
of the skin, do not use salt and water, but a wash of 1 scruple chloride
of zinc to 1 pint of water, dabbed on the sore every two or three hours
with fine linen rag, and give rest from collar-work till healed; then
harden with salt and water; and when the scab has disappeared, and the
horse is fit for harness, chamber the collar over the affected part, and
employ for a while a saving-collar. A sore neck will produce a jibbing
horse, and therefore requires to be closely attended to in his training.
EXERCISING.
It is desirable that a master should appoint a particular place for the
exercising of his horses, coupled with strict injunctions to his groom
on no account to leave it. No master should give his servants the option
of going where they please to exercise, their favourite resort being
often the precincts of a public-house, with a sharp gallop round the
most impracticable corners to make up the time. An occasional visit of
the master to the exercising ground is a very salutary check upon such
proceedings.
The best possible exercise for a horse is walking—the sod or any soft
elastic surface being better than the road for the purpose; and if the
latter only is available, use knee-caps as a safeguard.
Two hours’ daily exercise (_if he gets it_) at a _fast_ walk will be
enough to keep a hack fit for his work; and it is usual with some
experienced field-horsemen never to allow their hunters, _when once up to
their work_, to get any but walking exercise for as much as four hours
daily, two hours at a time—that is, when they desire to keep them “fit.”
Ladies’ and elderly gentlemen’s horses ought most particularly to be
exercised, and not overfed, to keep them tame and tractable, and to guard
against accidents.
The foregoing directions refer to the _preparations_ for the master’s
work, and are what I should give my groom.
_Sweating._—In case it is desirable to prepare an animal for any
extraordinary exertion, the readiest, safest, and most judicious means
is by sweating, carefully proceeded with, by using two or three sets of
body-clothes, an empty stomach being indispensable for the process, and a
riding-school, if available, the best place for the necessary exercise,—a
sweat being thus sooner obtained free from cold air, and the soft footing
of such a place saving the jar on the legs more even than the sod in the
field, unless it happen to be very soft.
Sweating is a peculiarly healthy process for either man or beast; and
to judge of the benefit derived by a horse through that means, from the
effect of a heavy perspiration through exercise on one’s self, there
seems little doubt that it is very renewing to the _physique_.
_Ringing_ or _Loungeing_ with a cavesson, though not ordinarily adopted,
except by the trainer, is nevertheless most useful as a means of
exercise. It is a very suitable manner of “taking the rough edge off,” or
bringing down the superabundant spirits of horses that have been confined
to the stable for some time by weather or other similar cause producing
restiveness, and is peculiarly adapted for exercising harness-horses
where it may not be safe or expedient to ride them.
WORK.
The master on the road or in the field using his bearer for convenience
or pleasure, will do him less injury in a day than a thoughtless ignorant
servant will contrive to accomplish in an hour when only required to
exercise the beast.
To the advice already given, never to allow your horses to be galloped
or cantered on a hard surface, it is well to add, refrain from doing
so yourself. On the elastic turf these paces do comparatively little
harm; but for the road, and indeed all ordinary usage, except hunting
or racing, the trot or walk is the proper pace. My impression coincides
with that of many experienced sportsmen, that one mile of a canter on a
hard surface does more injury to the frame and legs of a horse, than
twenty miles’ walk and trot: for this reason, that in the act of walking
or trotting the off fore and near hind feet are on the ground at the
same moment alternately with the other two, thus dividing the pressure
of weight and propulsion on the legs more than even ambling, which is a
lateral motion; while in anything approaching to the canter or gallop,
the two fore feet and legs have at the same moment to bear the entire
weight of man and horse, as well as the jar of the act of propulsion from
behind.
_Ambling_ is a favourite pace with the Americans, whose horses are
trained to it; also with the Easterns. It is, as before mentioned, a
lateral motion, much less injurious to the wear and tear of the legs than
either canter or gallop on the hard road, the off fore and hind being on
the ground alternately with the near fore and hind legs.
Though unsightly to an Englishman’s eyes, this pace is decidedly the
easiest of all to the rider, and may be accelerated from four to six or
eight miles an hour without the least inconvenience. Some American horses
are taught to excel in this pace, so as to beat regular trotters.
By trotting a horse you do him comparatively little injury on the road;
but observe the animal that has been constantly ridden by ladies (at
watering-places and elsewhere), who are so fond of the canter: he stands
over, and is decidedly shaky on his legs, although the weight on his back
has been generally light. Observe, on the contrary, the bearer of the
experienced horseman; although the weight he had to carry may have been
probably what is called “a welter,” _his legs are right enough_.
The softness of the turf, as fitting it for the indulgence of a gallop,
is indicated by the depth of the horse-tracks; there is not much
impression left on a hard road.
It should be always borne in mind that “it is _the pace that kills_,” and
unless the wear and tear of horse-flesh be a matter of no consideration,
according as the pace is increased from that of five or six miles per
hour, so should the distance for the animal’s day’s work be diminished.
For instance, if you require him to do seven miles in the hour _daily_,
that seven miles must always be considered as full work for the day; if
you purpose going eight miles per hour, your horse should only travel
six miles daily at that rate; if faster still, five miles only should
be your bearer’s limit; if at a ten-mile rate, then four miles; or at a
twelve-mile rate, three miles per day. But of course such regulations
apply to _daily_ work only, as a horse is capable of accomplishing a
great deal more without injury, if only called upon to do so occasionally.
A man may require to do a day’s journey of thirty miles, or a day’s
hunting, and such work being only occasional, no harm whatever to the
animal need result; but about eight or ten miles a-day at an alternate
walk or trot (say six-miles-an-hour pace) is as much as any valuable
animal ought to do if worked regularly.
No horse ought to be hunted more than twice a-week _at the utmost_.
The work of horses, especially when ridden, ought to be so managed that
the latter part of the journey may be done in a walk, so that they may be
brought in cool.
A horse in the saddle is capable of travelling a hundred miles, or even
more, in twenty-four hours, if required; and if the weight be light,
and the rider judicious, such feats _may_ be done occasionally without
injury: but if a journey of a hundred miles be contemplated, it is better
to take three days for its performance, each day’s journey of over thirty
miles being divided into two equal portions, and got through early in
the morning and late in the afternoon; the pace an alternate walk and
trot at the rate of about five miles an hour, to vary it, as continuous
walking for so long as a couple of hours when travelling on the road,
may prove so tiresome that horses would require watching to keep them on
their legs; and it is good for both horse and man that the latter should
dismount and take the whole, or nearly the whole, of the walking part
on his own feet, thus not only relieving his bearer from the continual
pressure of the rider’s weight on the saddle on his back, but as a man
when riding and walking brings into play two completely distinct sets of
muscles, he will, though a little tired from walking, find himself on
remounting positively refreshed from that change of exercise.
This recommendation is equally applicable to the hunting-field at any
check, or when there is the least opportunity. So well is the truth of
the above remark known to the most experienced horsemen, that some of
them, steeplechase riders, make it a practice before riding a severe race
to walk rapidly from five to ten miles to the course, in preference to
making use of any of the many vehicles always at their disposal on such
occasions.
It is only surprising that the expediency of making dragoons dismount
and walk beside their horses on a march, at least part of the way, for
distances of one or two miles at a time, is not more apparent to those
in authority (many of them practical men), in whose power it lies to
make a regulation so very salutary for both man and horse. The more
the beneficial effect of such an arrangement is considered, the more
desirable it would appear to be, especially in dry weather. The great
occasional relief to an overweighted horse of being divested of his rider
now and then, would rather serve than injure the latter, on account of
the variety of exercise, as before remarked, while his handling of the
horse would decidedly be enlivened by the change.
_Signals of Distress_ on increased pace.—Prominently may be mentioned
a horse becoming winded, or, as sportsmen call it, having “bellows
to mend,” which in proper hands ought seldom to occur, even in the
hunting-field, as there are tokens which precede it—such as the creature
hanging on his work, poking his head backwards and forwards, describing a
sort of semicircle with his nose, gaping, the ears lopping, &c.
Some horsemen are in the habit of giving ale or porter (from a pint to
a quart of either) to their horses during severe work. This is not at
all a bad plan, if the beast will take it; and as many masters are fond
of petting their animals with biscuit or bread, a piece of either being
occasionally soaked in one of the above liquids when given, will accustom
the creature so trained to the taste of them.
After the work is over a little well-made gruel is a great restorative;
and when a long journey is completed, a bran-mash might be given, as
mentioned under the head of “Feeding,” page 22.
One of the worst results to be dreaded from a horse going long journeys
daily, is fever in the feet (page 132), which may be obviated by stopping
the fore feet directly they are picked and washed out at the end of each
day’s journey.—_See_ page 13.
After a long journey, it would be desirable to have the animal’s fore
shoes _at least_ removed.
The saddle ought not to be taken off for some time after work; the longer
it has been under the rider, and the more severe the work, the longer,
comparatively, it should remain on after use, in order to avoid that
frightful result which is most like to ensue from its being quickly
removed—viz., sore back. With cavalry, saddles are left on for an hour or
more after the return from a field-day or march.
A numna or absorbing sweat-cloth under the saddle is in cases of hard or
continued work a great preservative against sore back.
When an extraordinary day’s work has been done, after the horse is
cleaned and fed he should be at once bedded down, and left to rest in
quiet, interrupted only to be fed.
BRIDLING.
Every horseman before he mounts should observe closely whether his horse
is properly saddled and bridled.
Bits must be invariably of wrought steel, and the mouthpiece _in all
bits_ should fit the horse’s mouth _exactly_ in its width: the bit
that is made to fit a sixteen-hands-high is surely too large for a
fourteen-hand cob. The bit ought to lie just above the tusk in a horse’s
jaw, and one inch above the last teeth with a mare.
It must be adapted to the mouth and temper of the horse as well as to the
formation of his head and neck. A riding-master, or the rider, if he has
any judgment, ought to be able to form an opinion as to the most suitable
bit for an animal.[10]
The ordinary _Bridoon_ (or Double bridle, as it is called in the North)
is best adapted to the well-mouthed and tempered horse, and is the safest
and best bridle for either road or field. Unfinished gentlemen as well
as lady equestrians, when riding with double reins to the bits, are
recommended to tie the curb-bit rein evenly in a knot on the horse’s
neck (holding only the bridoon-rein in the hand), provided his temper
and mouth be suitable to a snaffle. This is a practice pursued by some
even good and experienced horsemen where the temper of a horse is high,
in order to have the curb-bit to rely upon in case he should happen to
pull too hard on the bridoon or snaffle, which otherwise would be quite
sufficient and best to use alone.
The _Curb-chain_, when used, should be strong and tight; it should
invariably be supported by a lip-strap, an adjunct that is really most
essential, but which grooms practically ignore by losing. The object
of the lip-strap is to prevent the curb, if rather loose, from falling
over the lip, thus permitting the horse to get hold of it in his mouth
and go where he pleases; it also guards against a trick some beasts are
very clever at, of catching the cheek or leg of the bit in their teeth,
and making off in spite of the efforts of any rider. If the curb be
tight, the lip-strap is equally useful in keeping it horizontally, and
preventing its drooping to too great a pressure, thus causing abrasion of
the animal’s jaw. The curb _ought_ to be pretty tight, sufficiently so to
admit one finger between it and the jaw-bone.
The _Snaffle_ with a fine-mouthed horse is well adapted for the field—the
only place where I would ever dispense altogether with the curb-bit, and
then only in favour of a fine-mouthed well-tempered beast disposed to go
coolly at his fences.
On the road a horse may put his foot upon a stone in a jog-trot, or come
upon some irregularity; and unless the rider has something more than a
snaffle in his hand, he is exceedingly likely to suffer for it. Many a
horse that is like a foot-ball in the field, full of life and elasticity,
and never making a mistake, will on the road require constant watching to
prevent his tumbling on his nose.[11]
At the same time, a horse should by no means be encouraged to lean on the
bit or on the rider’s support, which most of them will be found quite
ready to do; a disposition in that direction must be checked by mildly
feeling his mouth (with the bit), pressing your legs against his sides,
and enlivening him gently with the whip or spur.
The _Martingal_.—The standing or head martingal is a handsome
equipment—safe and serviceable with a beast that is incorrigible about
getting his head up, but should be used in the street or on the road only.
The _Ring-Martingal_ is intended solely for the field with a horse
whose head cannot be kept down; but it requires to be used with nice
judgment, and handling of the second or separate rein, which should pass
through it, especially when the animal is in or near the act of taking
his fences, when, with some horses, comparative freedom may be allowed
to the head, which should, however, be brought down to its proper place
directly he is safely landed on his legs again by the use of this second
martingal-rein, which is attached to the bridoon bit.
_N.B._—If this second rein be attached to the snaffle by buckles (and
not stitched on as it ought to be), the buckles of the rein should be
defended from getting into the rings of the martingal by pieces of
leather larger than those rings. Most serious accidents have occurred
from the absence of this precaution: the buckle becoming caught in the
ring, the horse’s head is fixed in one position, and not knowing where he
is going, he proceeds, probably without any control from the rider, till
both come to some serious mishap. The rein stitched to the ring of the
bit is the safest.
The _Running-Rein_, or other plan of martingal (from the D in front of
the saddle above the rider’s knee through the ring of the snaffle to his
hand), should only be used by the riding-master or those competent to
avail themselves of its assistance in forming the mouth of a troublesome
or untrained animal. Some experienced horsemen, however, when they find
they cannot keep the nose in or head down with ordinary bits, instead of
using a martingal of any denomination, employ (especially in the field)
with good effect a ring, keeping the _bridoon_ or snaffle-reins under
the bend of the neck; or a better contrivance is a bit of stiff leather
three or four inches long, with two D’s or staples for the reins to pass
through on each side.
The _Chifney Bit_ is the most suitable for ladies’ use, or for timid or
invalid riders: it at once brings up a hard-pulling horse, but requires
very gentle handling. I have known more than one horse to be quite
unmanageable in any but a Chifney bit.
The more severe bits are those that have the longest legs or cheeks,
giving the greatest leverage against the curb. By the addition of deep
ports on the mouthpiece of the bit much severity is attained (especially
when the port is constructed turned downwards, in place of the usual
practice of making it upwards), which can be increased to the utmost by
the addition of a tight noseband to prevent the horse from easing the
port by movement of his tongue or jaws.
It is almost needless to observe, that the reverse of the above will be
the mildest bits for tender-mouthed, easy-going horses.
_Twisted Mouthpieces_ are happily now almost out of fashion, and ought
to be entirely discountenanced; their original intention was to command
hard-mouthed horses, whose mouths their use can only render harder.
The _Noseband_, if tightened, would be found very useful with many a
hard-pulling horse in the excitement of hunting, when the bit, which
would otherwise require to be used, would only irritate the puller, cause
him to go more wildly, and make matters worse. I have known some pullers
to be more under control in the hunting-field with a pretty tight
noseband and a snaffle than with the most severe curb-bit.
The _Throat-lash_ is almost always too tight. Grooms are much in the
habit of making this mistake, by means of which, when the head is bent
by a severe bit, the throat is compressed and the respiration impeded,
besides occasioning an ugly appearance in the caparison.
It may be remarked also that, if not corrected, servants are apt to leave
the ends of the bridle head-stall straps dangling at length out of the
loops, which is very unsightly: the ends of the straps should be inserted
in these loops, which should be sufficiently tight to retain them.
SADDLING.
A _Saddle_ should be made to fit the horse for which it is intended,
and requires as much variation in shape, especially in the stuffing, as
there is variety in the shapes of horses’ backs.[12] An animal may be
fairly shaped in the back, and yet a saddle that fits another horse will
always go out on this one’s withers. The saddle having been made to fit
your horse, let it be placed gently upon him, and shifted till its proper
berth be found. When in its right place, the action of the upper part of
the shoulder-blade should be quite free from any confinement or pressure
by what saddlers call the “gullet” of the saddle under the pommel when
the animal is in motion. It stands to reason that any interference with
the action of the shoulder-blade must, after a time, indirectly if not
directly, cause a horse to falter in his movement.
_N.B._—A horse left in the stable with his saddle on, with or without a
bridle, ought always to have his head fastened up, to prevent his lying
down on the saddle and injuring it.
_Girths._—When girthing a horse, which is always done upon the near or
left-hand side, the girth should be first drawn tightly towards you under
the belly of the horse, so as to bring the saddle _rather_ to the off
side on the back of the beast. This is seldom done by grooms; and though
a gentleman is not supposed to girth his horse, information on this as
well as on other points may happen to be of essential service to him;
for the consequence of the attendant’s usual method is, that when the
girths are tightened up, the saddle, instead of being in the centre of
the horse’s back, is inclined to the near or left-hand side, to which
it is still farther drawn by the act of mounting, so that when a man
has mounted he fancies that one stirrup is longer than the other—the
near-side stirrup invariably the longest. To remedy this he forces down
his foot in the right stirrup, which brings the saddle to the centre of
the animal’s back.
All this would be obviated by care being taken, in the process of
girthing, to place the left hand on the middle of the saddle, drawing the
first or under girth with the right hand till the girth-holder reaches
the buckle, the left hand being then disengaged to assist in bracing up
the girth. The outer girth must go through the same process, being drawn
under the belly of the horse from the off side tightly before it is
attached to the girth-holder.
With ladies’ saddles most particular attention should be paid to the
girthing.
(It must be observed that, with some horses having the knack
of swelling themselves out during the process of girthing, the
girths may be tightened before leaving the stable so as to
appear almost too tight, but which, when the horse has been
walked about for ten minutes, will seem comparatively loose,
and quite so when the rider’s weight is placed in the saddle.)
_Stirrup-Irons_ should invariably be of wrought steel. A man should never
be induced knowingly to ride in a cast-metal stirrup, any more than he
ought to attempt to do so with a cast-metal bit.
Stirrup-irons should be selected to suit the size of the rider’s
foot; those with two or three narrow bars at the bottom are decidedly
preferable, for the simple reason, that in cold weather it is a tax on
a man’s endurance to have a single broad bar like an icicle in the ball
of his foot, and in wet weather a similar argument may apply as regards
damp; besides, with the double bar, the foot has a better hold in the
stirrup, the rings being, of course, indented (rasp-like), as they
usually are, to prevent the foot from slipping in them.
This description of stirrup, with an instep-pad, is preferable for ladies
to the slipper, which is decidedly obsolete.
Latchford’s[13] ladies’ patent safety stirrup seems to combine every
precaution for the security of fair equestrians.
A balance-strap to a side-saddle is very desirable, and in general use.
Where expense is no object, stirrups that open at the side with a spring
are, no doubt, the safest for gentlemen in case of any accident.
With regard to _Stirrup-Leathers_, saddlers generally turn the right or
dressed side out for appearance; but as the dressing causes a tightness
on that side of the leather, the undressed side, which admits of more
expansion, should be outside—because, after a little wear, the leather
is susceptible of cracks, and the already extended side will crack the
soonest. The leather will break in the most insidious place, either in
the D under the stirrup-iron, where no one but the servant who cleans it
can see it; or else, perhaps, where the buckle wears it under the flap
of the saddle. Stirrup-leathers broken in this manner have caused many
accidents.
Invariably adjust your stirrup-leathers _before mounting_.
To measure the length of the stirrup-leathers of a new saddle, place
the fingers of the right hand against the bar to which the leathers are
attached, and, measuring from the bottom bar of the stirrup up to the
armpit, make the length of the leathers and stirrups equal to the length
of your arm, from the tips of the fingers to the armpit. Before entering
the field, in hunting or crossing country, draw up the leathers two or
three holes shorter on each side; and when starting on a long journey it
is as well to do the same, to ease both yourself and your bearer.
_Clumped-soled Boots_ occasion accidents. If, in case of yourself or your
horse falling, the foot catch in the stirrup, a boot with such a sole may
prevent its release.
The _Crupper_, though now obsolete for saddles, except in military
caparison, would be decidedly beneficial in keeping the saddle in its
proper place _on long journeys_, especially where, from the shape of the
animal, the saddle _will_ come too much forward, interfering with the
action of the shoulders, and throwing the weight of the burden unduly on
the fore-quarters, thus increasing the odds in favour of a tired beast
making an irretrievable stumble.
The dock of the crupper should be seen to that it is soft, and free from
crusted sweat and dandriff, which would naturally cause irritation and
abrasion of the tail. It should be always kept well greased ready for
use.[14]
The _Military Crupper_, according to the rules of the service, should be
so loose between cantel and dock as to admit of a man’s hand being turned
with ease between the horse’s back and the strap. If the crupper be
intended merely for ornament, such a regulation has hardly any meaning,
for it cannot be considered ornamental to see an apparently useless piece
of leather dangling at one side over a horse’s hip; and if the intention
be to make it useful, to keep the saddle from going too far forward on
ill-formed horses,[15] or in case of strong exertion, it is obvious
that a loose strap (according to orders) could hardly serve any such
purpose. If the crupper be for use, it would appear that after the saddle
is placed in its proper position on the animal’s back (the crupper being
left at its full length for this purpose), and previous to girthing, it
should be shortened so as to _retain_ the saddle in that place under any
circumstances,—not, however, that the crupper should be so tightened as
to inconvenience the beast, and half cut his tail off; it will be tight
enough to serve its purpose if _one_ or _two_ fingers can be easily
turned under the strap.
The _Breastplate_ may be necessary in hunting or steeplechasing with
horses that are light behind the girth, or what is vulgarly called
“herring-gutted,” and is used to prevent the saddle from getting too far
back, or, as the grooms say, the horse “running through his girths.”
Animals trained to such trying work as steeplechasing, or even hunting,
will become much smaller in the carcass than a trooper or an ordinary
gentleman’s hack.
With dragoons this part of the equipment is generally ill-adjusted, as
if to correspond with the inefficient arrangement of the crupper, the
breast-straps being often _too tight_. Frequently, during manœuvring
in the field or the riding-school, I have seen breast-straps burst in
consequence of their tightness; and indeed it stands to reason they
can thus but interfere with a horse’s action in leaping or making more
than ordinary exertion. Their tightness not only renders discomfiture
imminent, but must drag the saddle forward out of its place.
Altogether it might be desirable that commanding officers of some
cavalry regiments would study the pose on horseback of Marochetti’s
sculptured dragoons, or those of other eminent artists. The result
would probably be a marked improvement in the position of the saddle,
and, consequently, in the general _coup d’œil_ of our cavalry, who,
however, notwithstanding such minor defects, have always maintained their
superiority in horsemanship, as well as in efficiency, over any other
cavalry in the world.
RIDING.
The seat, method of holding the hands, &c., should be left to the
riding-master,[16] with a friendly admonition to the learner to avoid the
“stuck-up,” one-handed principle to a great extent, and to take a lesson
whenever opportunity occurs from one of the “great untaught,”[17] and,
observing their ease and judgment in the management of their bearers,
endeavour to modify their own horsemanship accordingly.
Kindness goes far in managing these noble animals.
How is it that many horses that are unmanageable with powerful and good
horsemen, can be ridden with perfect ease and safety by ladies? The
first thing a lady generally does after mounting, is to reassure her
steed by patting, or, in riding-school language, “making much of him,”
taking up the reins with a very light hand, and giving him his head;
whereas a man usually does the very reverse; he takes a commanding hold
of the reins, presses his legs into the horse as the signal for motion,
perhaps with a rasp of both spurs into his sides, indicating no great
amiability of temper—a state of things very likely to be reciprocated by
a high-spirited horse.
As before observed, every man ought himself to be able to judge whether
his horse is properly saddled and bridled. I must still inveigh against
misplacement of the saddle, which grooms, it will be remarked, usually
place too far forward—a mistake which is of more consequence than is
generally considered.
Take a dragoon, for instance, weighing, with arms, accoutrements, and
kit, from fifteen to twenty stone; this weight, if allowed to fall unduly
on the fore quarter, must help to founder the charger, and bring him into
trouble on the first provocation. Let him make the least stumble, and the
weight of his burden, instead of being back in its proper place, with the
man’s assistance there to help him up, is thrown forward, keeping the
beast tied down, and preventing his rising. But, taking appearances into
consideration, the forward placement of the saddle is most ungraceful,
reminding one of the position of an Eastern driving an elephant, seated
on his bearer’s neck.
I have seen the _tout ensemble_ of a magnificent cavalry regiment
strikingly deteriorated by the ungraceful and absolutely unhorsemanlike
misplacement of the saddles, and consequently of the men—though the
military regulation on the subject is fair enough, directing a saddle
to be placed a handbreadth behind the play of the shoulder. This
would, perhaps, be a slight excess in the other direction, were it not
considered that, in all probability, out of a hundred troop-horses so
saddled, ninety-nine would be found after an hour’s trotting to have
shifted the saddle _forward_, for one on whom it would have remained
stationary or gone back.
It is well known that no rider should ever go fast down-hill on the road,
or round a corner, especially on pavement; but in the field, hunting or
racing, down-hill is the place to make play.
In the absence of an attendant to hold for mounting, some horses are
allowed to contract a habit that is liable to cause accidents, of
starting before the rider is comfortably seated in the saddle. Prevent
this bad fashion by gathering the snaffle-rein (not the curb) tightly up
before mounting, and when across the saddle, and before the right leg is
in the stirrup, check any effort to move off.
When a horse is alarmed, nothing so effectually reassures him as speaking
to him. I have myself experienced the efficacy of gently using my voice
on two or three occasions, when I admit having been run away with for a
short time.
Though a horse ought never to be allowed to have his own way, his rider
should try every means before resorting to actual punishment or fight,
which may be sometimes unavoidable as the only chance of conquest.
An animal requiring such treatment should be handed over to the
rough-rider for subsequent teaching, if not disposed of for more suitable
employment than that of a gentleman’s horse.
Your bearer should not be allowed to keep a perpetual lean upon your
hand, more particularly when walking. Should he stumble while thus
leaning, he is not likely to recover himself, but will fall helplessly on
his knees.
Keep him as self-dependent as possible, though not with a rein so slack
as to leave him to himself altogether. It is the business or amusement of
the rider to be on the alert for all casualties.[18]
To make a horse change his foot in canter, if you find it difficult to do
so by merely using hand and leg, turn him _as if_ to circle towards that
side that you require the foot to lead—he will use the foot forward that
you wish in order to prop himself in turning. Thus, if you circle round
to the right, he will lead with the off fore foot; and if you turn to the
left, the near fore will be advanced.
In using a curb, the rider should remember that if it is properly placed,
with a fair leverage, rough-handling of the lower or bit rein may drive a
fine-tempered animal into a state of great irritation, or even prove an
incentive to rearing;[19] and directly anything like this effect seems
to be produced, that rein should be eased, and the bridoon-rein borne
up.
[Illustration: RIDING AT IT]
In fencing, the snaffle or bridoon bit and rein _only_ ought to be used;
_this the rider should particularly bear in mind_. A rider with a hold
of the curb-rein in fencing, getting the least out of his equilibrium,
or giving an involuntary check to the curb, may put any well-mouthed
animal entirely out of his own way, preventing his jumping safely and
confidently, and probably causing accidents. One of several reasons why
the Irish horses excel in fencing is, that it is very much the custom in
that country to use snaffles in cross-country riding. The curb-rein may
be taken up, if necessary, after the jump is over. (Some horses, however,
are such violent pullers, that, in the full tilt of going to hounds,
where the country is close and fencing frequent, it is almost impossible
to avoid using the curb-rein occasionally in the act of jumping.)
While touching on cross-country riding, it may be observed that many men
who ought to know better, often make a serious mistake in not leaving
hunters more to themselves than they do when going at and taking their
fences. Horses vary in their mode of progression; and whether the gait be
slow or fast, anything of a trained animal, when interfered with under
these circumstances, will be put out of his own way (which is generally
best suited to his peculiar temper or ability), in placing his legs
advantageously to make his jump with safety.[20]
Let your horse, if he is anything of a fencer, choose his own way and
pace to take his jumps.
In riding to hounds, if practicable, it is well to avoid newly made or
repaired ditches or fences; your steed is apt to encounter such with
diffidence; he does not take the jump with the same will, fears there’s
“something up,” and from want of confidence may very possibly make a
mistake.
It would be well, for cross-country horsemen more especially,
to bear in mind Sir Francis Head’s observation, as applied to
riders as well as horses, that “the belly lifts the legs;”
meaning, I take it, that if man or horse is out of tone from
derangement of the stomach or general debility, he cannot be up
to the mark or fit for any physical exertion. It is well known
to steeplechase riders and men who ride straight to hounds,
that occasionally, in consequence of inertion, indulgence, or
dissipation, having deranged the stomach or nervous system, a
rider will be done up before his steed, who, oppressed with
a comparatively dead weight knocking about on his back, will
himself follow suit from want of being held together, and
probably come a burster at some jump before the finish.
To a practical horseman the act of standing in the stirrups will suggest
itself as a matter of expediency to ease himself, when the horse is
pulling hard at or near his full galloping pace.
The great advantage of a rider easing his bearer by walking up-hill is
treated of under the head of “Work,” page 36.
When a rider finds his horse going tender or lame, he ought _immediately_
to dismount and examine his feet. If a stone has become bedded between
the clefts of the frog, or got between shoe and sole, and a picker does
not happen to be at hand, a suitable stone should be sought wherewith to
dislodge the one in the foot. If no stone in the foot can be discovered
as causing the lameness, closer examination must be made in search of a
nail, a piece of iron or rough glass, or other damage to the sole. If no
apparent means of relief present itself, the sooner the beast is led to
the nearest place where a proper examination of the foot can take place
the better.[21] For the amount of work a horse can do, see remarks on
that subject, under the head of “Work,” page 35; and to avoid broken
knees, see hints on that subject, pages 51 and 141.
_Mounting of Lady in Side-Saddle._—The mounter, being as close as
possible to the animal, should place his right hand on his right knee,
and in it receive the lady’s left foot. When she springs she should
straighten her left knee, at the same time having in her right hand the
reins, with a fast hold of the middle crutch, and her left hand on the
mounter’s shoulder to help her to spring up.
HARNESSING.
_The General Mounting_, whether of brass or silver-plated (to correspond
with the mountings of the carriage), or with leather-covered buckles, is
all a matter of taste; the leather being, however, the least durable.
_A Dry Harness-Room_ is indispensable, in which there should be shallow
presses with pegs, but no shelves; otherwise, coverings should be
provided for harness and saddles to preserve them from flying dust.
_Style._—In pairing horses for draught, if one be rather larger than
the other, the larger should be placed on the near or left side, as
the left-hand side of the road being that on which vehicles travel,
the near-side horse will generally be going an inch or more lower than
the off-side one, and the difference of size in the pair will be less
perceptible.
If the animals are of an even size, and one be more lazy than the other,
that one should be placed at the off side, being thus more conveniently
situated to receive gentle reminders from the whip without observation.
If one of the pair _will_ carry his head higher than the other, _his_
coupling-rein[22] should run under that of the animal that leans his head
the most, so as to bring their heads as much on a level as possible. An
ivory ring, to run the coupling-reins through, looks and acts well.
Both manes should be trained to flow either in or out from the pole; the
latter way is probably preferable.
Horses left to _stand harnessed_ in the stable should be turned round in
the stalls and fastened with the T’s of two pillar-reins passed through
the rings of the bridoon of bit. Should there be no pillar-reins in pairs
belonging to the stern-posts of each stall, tie the horses’ heads up with
the rack-rein, so as to prevent their lying down in the harness.
As a maxim, never leave a bridle on in the stable, unless in the case
where the head can be sustained by a pair of pillar-reins from the
stern-posts. Most serious accidents have occurred through neglect of this
rule.
In _Yoking_ or “_putting to_,” the shafts of a vehicle must never be left
on the ground while the horse is being backed into them. If the shafts
touch him he will probably kick, or he may injure by standing on them. In
double harness, especially with spirited animals, to prevent the danger
of their backing, and being induced to kick by coming in contact with the
splinter-bar when putting to, first confine them to the point of the pole
by the pole chains or leathers, so lengthened as to enable the traces to
be attached (the outer ones first) to the carriage; which done, tighten
the chains or leathers to their working length. Accidents may thus be
averted. From the moment horses are “put to” their draught, until they
are driven off, some one should stand before their heads, whether they be
in single, pair, or four-horse harness.
_Traces._—Great care should be taken in adjusting these to prove that
they are of an even length, as the least deviation in equality is liable,
by pressure on one side, to produce a sore on the neck, under the collar
of the horse that happens to be on the side of the shortest trace.—_See_
“Jibbing,” page 87.
The buckles of all traces and back-bands ought to be provided with
detached pieces of leather cut square the width of those straps, and
placed under the buckles the tongues of which pass through these bits of
leather; the straps, thus protected from being cut by the buckles, will
wear nearly thrice as long as otherwise, and there is nothing unsightly
in the arrangement.
In all cases draught-horses should be placed close to their work—_i.e._,
the traces should meet as short as will just allow of the animals going
down an inclination at a brisk pace without coming in contact with the
carriage; the britching for single, and the pole-chains for double
harness, being tightened in proportion, to keep the carriage from running
on them down-hill.
For _Pole-Chains_ and _Swinging-Bars_, see page 73.
The _Hames_.—In order to divide the draught or pressure of the traces on
the shoulders a little, the hames might be furnished with scroll draught
eyes; this, however, has become unfashionable from being much used by
cabmen, and for rough draught.
_Hames Top-Straps._—Care should be taken that these are perfectly sound
and strong, especially in _double_ harness, where the strain of stopping
and backing the carriage of necessity comes upon them.
_Britching_ and _Kicking-Strap_.—It is better in single harness to
have the britching made with side-straps attached to the buckle or tug
of the _back-band_, and not to pass over the shaft (confined there by
a loop or staple as is usual). These side-straps can be tightened or
loosened according to the size of the animal, and if properly adjusted,
effectually prevent any carriage from running on the quarters. Across
the horses’ hips and through these straps, confined by square metal D’s,
passes the kicking-strap, which is attached to the tugs on the shafts by
buckles. This caparison, instead of being unsightly, is positively more
elegant than the ordinary-shaped britching, and provides a kicking-strap
at all times with the britching.
The kicking-strap for double harness must always be inelegant, nor can it
be made as effectual as that for single harness; for which reason, if for
no other, a kicking horse should never be used in double harness under a
gentleman’s carriage.
Britching is not generally used for double harness; but where appearances
are not regarded, it finds place amongst various other contrivances
available to make kickers, jibbers, bolters, plungers, and runaways, work
as placidly as if “they couldn’t help it.”[23]
The _Terret-Pad_ must be left to the taste of the owner and saddler, with
an observation, that in single harness it should be ascertained that the
back-band has always free play through it; and as a precaution, it is
desirable that in single harness the belly-band be always wrapped once
round at least one of the shafts before the tug, whether the draught be
on four or on a pair of wheels. Neglect in this particular has often
occasioned accidents. The terret-pad is generally placed too far forward;
the shortening of the crupper remedies this.
In double harness have a care that the terret-pad trace bearing-straps
are not buckled too short. I have seen fine tall horses greatly worn by
these straps being too tight, tying the animals across the back, the
undue pressure being aggravated with each elevation of the frame in the
act of progression.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.—Front View of a Collar, with the stuffing placed
as it should be for wear with ease and safety. _a a_, rim of collar all
round. _b b_, stuffing projecting round outside of rim. _c c_, stuffing
to project inside at back of rim, for the purpose of tightening the
collar on the neck in that situation, and thus obviate abrasion.]
The _Collar._—More care and judgment are necessary in shaping the
stuffing of the collar to fit a horse than for any other part of the
harness. The collar should not press either on the mane or on the under
part of the neck round the gullet; the pressure should be on each side of
the neck at _c c_ in figure. Collars to fit the ordinary run of horses
ought to be shaped thus, by the padding exclusive of the rim. The shape
of the rim is comparatively immaterial, but it must be strong to retain
the collar in shape. Any collar, be it ever so well shaped, should be
tried on the horse’s neck before it is taken into wear, to make sure that
it is neither too large nor too small.
Some horses’ heads are large in proportion with the size of collar they
require; in such cases, out of compassion for the poor animal over whose
head the small collar has to be forced at the risk of injuring his eyes,
the collar, which is generally closed, should be made open at the top, to
fasten with buckle and strap.
Under ordinary circumstances the open collars are not preferable, as
the opening and closing weakens the rim, and is likely to put them out
of shape; but as grooms have a fashion of putting the collar on with
the rigid hames tightly buckled round it, the whole process of forcing
a small closed collar over a beast’s larger head is so repulsive to him
that in time he learns to dread the very sight of a collar. The plan
of putting on the collar with the hames attached to it should never be
permitted.
_Saving-Collar_, and description of make.—This is generally formed by
harness-makers of basil with quilted padding. More serviceable than this
will be found the saving-collar cut of single leather, from the soft or
belly part of the cow-hide. A breast-strap is placed at the bottom of the
collar with a loop and buckle at the end, through which the belly-band of
the terret-pad passes to confine the collar.
Every owner of harness should be provided with one or two saving-collars
of this description to be used where severe work is expected, on long
journeys, or with animals new to harness. They should be open at the top,
to fasten there with two buckles and narrow straps, the tightening or
lengthening of the latter enabling it to be fitted to the horse’s size.
Some care is necessary to observe that the regular collar does not rub
the buckles of the saving-collar against the horse’s neck and make a sore.
The saving-collar should be always kept well moistened with grease or
oil, and carefully looked to after use, the crusted sweat and dandriff
being scraped off it. In the absence of a saving-collar, the collar
itself should be watched in the same respect.
The bridles generally in use for harness appear to require little or no
improvement.
The _Bit_ must be equally adapted to the horse’s mouth, &c., as for
riding (page 38), except that with harness, while to all appearance using
the same kind of bit with a pair of horses, the leverage on the mouths
can be altered, by placing the billets or buckle-end of the driving-reins
high or low in the cheeks of each, according to the animal’s temper, his
bearing on it, &c.
In placing the billets in the bit, it should be borne in mind that the
more use is made of the curb the more will be taken out of the horse;
therefore, when a long journey or severe work has to be done, animals
should be driven in snaffle, or the billets should be placed as near as
possible to the mouthpiece of the bit.
Experience only can demonstrate the difference in the wear and tear of
the general physique, resulting from a judicious arrangement or otherwise
of the reins and bit.
_Blinkers._—The question of “blinkers or no blinkers” can best be
answered by the observation, that if you can find horses that may be
depended upon to work safely and steadily without them, they may be
dispensed with; but as such animals are rare, blinkers are likely to
continue in general use.
Placing crests or ornaments on blinkers, unless the latter are light
and well hollowed, and kept extended in front by stiff blinker-straps,
is a practice likely to be injurious to the animals’ eyes; in fact, all
blinkers, unless light and well hollowed, are dangerous for the eyes, and
of course the increased weight of crests and their fastenings aggravates
the objection.
Heavy forehead-bands and rosettes, though ornamental, are anything but
desirable, as far as the horse himself is concerned.
The _Noseband_ of the harness bridle, like the riding one, can by
tightening be made very useful with some descriptions of hard-pulling
horses.—_See_ “Noseband,” page 42.
The _Breastplate_, or head-stall martingal, can be made useful in the
same way.—_See_ page 40.
_Throat-lash._—_See_ page 43.
_Reins._—Saddlers generally suit the reins admirably to the work for
which they are intended. A buff hand-piece with pullers is decidedly
preferable to plain leather, as its roughness enables the driver to have
a much firmer hold of the reins, but will become slippery in wet.
The _Bearing-Rein_ is only used to keep up a horse’s head and give him a
showy appearance, therefore no experienced person will use it except with
that object, and it is injurious in every other respect.—(_See_ “Broken
Knees,” pages 52 and 141.)
_Crupper._—This strap is intended to keep the terret-pad and back-band
in their proper places, and to restrain the former from running too far
forward or pressing on the withers (_see_ “Sore Withers,” page 151); also
as a sustainer to the terret-pad against the bearing-rein when the latter
is strained into its hook. Grooms have a very improper habit of leaving
the whole of the hinder part of the harness suspended in one mass by the
crupper-dock on a peg in the wall of the harness-room; this should not
be allowed. Let the terret-pad when not in use be always placed across a
proper saddle-rack, with the britching and crupper suspended therefrom;
or let them, at all events, be put somewhere by themselves.
_To put on Harness._—First, while the horse’s head is towards the manger,
place the terret-pad loosely across the back—take hold of the tail, and
carefully turn down the hair over the end of the flesh; thus grasping and
holding the tail and its hair together in the left hand, with the right
draw the crupper-dock over it, and adjust the latter to its place at the
root of the tail, being careful _not_ to leave a _single_ loose hair
under it. Then arrange your terret-pad in the place where it should work
by shortening or lengthening the crupper-strap; which done, tighten the
belly-band.[24]
Now turn the horse in his stall, and, your collar and hames having been
hung up close at hand, slip the wide end of the former _by itself_ over
the head.
Leave the collar so, on the narrow part of the neck, till you place your
hames within the collar-rim, and fasten them thereto by buckling the top
strap over the narrow part or top of the collar: now turn the collar and
hames round on the neck _in the direction_ of the _side_ over which the
_mane hangs_.
Put on the bridle and attach driving-reins, temporarily doubling their
hand-piece through the terrets. Fasten the horse thus harnessed to the
pillar-reins till you are ready to “put to.”
_To take off Harness_, begin by removing the reins and bridle; then take
off the hames _by themselves_, then the collar, and lastly the terret-pad
and crupper.
DRIVING.
In driving, a man should sit up against his work, and be thoroughly
propped by his legs and feet, with the left or rein hand held well into
his body, in front of or a little below the waist. Nothing looks more
ungraceful than to have the reins at arm’s-length, held out at a distance
from one’s chest.
A driver should always be seated before any one else in or about the
vehicle; and having carefully taken a firm hold of the reins in his
left hand BEFORE mounting his seat, they should so remain, and never be
shifted. But should the driver be either obliged or find it convenient to
allow others to be seated first, he will then of necessity have to mount
from the off or right side, in which case he will in the first place have
to take the reins in his right hand until seated, when he will at once
transfer them to their proper position in his left.
The whip should invariably be placed in the socket, or be handed
carefully to the driver after he has mounted. To mount with it in hand
is highly dangerous; the sight of it over the blinkers, or an accidental
touch to an animal when the driver is unprepared, may startle and set off
a team—while holding a whip in the act of mounting renders that piece of
gymnastics doubly awkward to accomplish. All turns and manœuvres may be
effected by the fore-finger (and thumb if necessary) of the right or whip
hand, either on the off or the near side rein, according as the direction
of the intended movement is towards the right or left.[25] But in driving
four-in-hand, unicorns, or tandems, insert the fourth finger of the
whip-hand between the lead and wheel reins on the side you want to pull,
to turn or direct your horses.
With four-in-hand the general principle is, while allowing only a certain
amount of play to the heads of your leaders, to keep your wheelers well
in hand, ready for any sudden emergency, bearing in mind that it is
only with them, as they are attached to the pole, that you can stop the
carriage.
A driver having occasion to raise his right hand for any purpose, should
first place the whip transversely under the thumb of the left or rein
hand (above, but upon, one of the reins), leaving the other hand at
liberty; indeed, the whip should always lie in this transverse position,
whether in the right or the left hand, unless when in use for correction.
Many horses are very clever at watching the whip over the blinkers, and
careless pointing forward with it may keep a high-spirited animal in a
continual fret.
To ascertain how each horse is doing his work, judge not only by the test
of the willing horse bearing more on your hand; see also how each horse
keeps his traces. In whichever case they are slack, you may depend that
_that_ horse has no draught upon him; if tight, he is doing his share of
the work, or more. A good whip will correct the defaulter so as to avoid
annoying the other horse. There is no better criterion of skill in the
use of the whip than this.
With the leaders in tandem and four-in-hand, and in low-seated carriages,
unless the dash-board be very high, the reins are apt to get under the
horses’ tails. In such cases, to avoid a kicking match, no immediate
attempt should be made to replace the reins while they are confined;
but a _very light_ lash of the whip on the leg will engage the attention
of the animal, and while the tail is switched up on the touch of the
lash, the reins may be released. Horses should always be kept well in
hand, unless that, upon a long and tiresome journey, some consideration
may be shown for what they have to go through. Under such circumstances,
attention may well be directed to the manner the billets are placed in
the bit (page 62).
On the level a fair pace can be maintained, but up hill no merciful man
will ever press his beasts. When a heavy load has to be drawn up a sharp
short hill, it is not a bad plan to _cheat_ the horse out of the first
half of it by going at it with an impetus, suffering the pace to merge
into a walk without further pressure as the first impetus declines.
When the ascent is long and gradual, horses should be allowed to walk the
whole way, which can always be admitted of on ordinary roads, where the
pace is not intended to exceed eight miles an hour, as the speed may be
accelerated when the fall of ground is reached, without distressing the
animals.
Let a man suppose himself to be obliged to wheel a hand-cart with a
heavy burden for a given distance within a given time, on an undulating
roadway, and he will soon discover the course he would pursue to effect
his object; he would certainly save himself by going very slowly up
the hills, and make up the time and distance with most ease by rolling
the vehicle at a rapid rate down the declivities. Let the principle of
working thus exemplified be always applied to the usage of horses in
harness.
An old driving maxim may be added, though not recommended by the metre:—
“Up the hill spare me;
Down the hill let me run and bear me;
On the level never fear me.”
Or,
“Walk me a mile out and a mile in;
Up the hill spur me not,
Down the hill I’ll walk or trot;
On the plain spare me not;
In the stable forget me not.”
I have driven a great deal in my life, and have never met with an
accident from driving at a fair trot down a moderate hill, with plenty of
road-room, and no turning to be made till after gaining the level, the
team being well in hand throughout.
This observation applies equally to any number of horses; but with tandem
or four-in-hand the wheelers should be held particularly tight, and the
leaders pulled back.
If, in descending a hill, the wheel can be drawn along rough stones
without the horses being also brought on them, it is desirable to avail
of such a drag.
In such hilly countries as Wales, Devon, &c., the constant use of a skid
is indispensable. The uninitiated may not quarrel with me for reminding
them of the necessity for keeping always to their own or the left side of
the road(_the right on the Continent, in America, and other countries_).
In turning a corner, however, if it be to the left you intend going,
_before_ you make your turn get from your proper side of the road a
_little_ towards the right, if possible, and from thence make your turn,
by which means you will more easily reach the left, or your proper side,
of the new route you intend to take, besides being able to see everything
that is approaching en the other. To turn a right angle you must have
space accordingly, and it is better to make use of that which you see
insured to you than to be depending on that which is uncertain.
It is hardly necessary to remark that it is infinitely safer to make
your turns at a slow pace than faster. Turning quickly round corners is
reckless work, but the faster your pace the more necessary it is to get
to the wrong side of the road when turning to the left _before_ you make
your turn to the new, or _before_ entering a narrow gateway or passage.
When the turn is to the right, you will keep to your own or left side of
the road.
Where a narrow gateway has to be entered with four wheels, having brought
your vehicle fairly in front of it, place your pole directly over the
centre or bolt stone; in the absence of this guide, mark with your eye
some object in the centre, and bring your pole right over it. The wheels
will take care of themselves, if there is at all room for the carriage.
With single harness the horse is brought direct at the gate, and kept
very straight, his hind feet passing over the centre object.
In driving through crowded streets or in a narrow way, especially with
vehicles coming rapidly towards you, and every prospect of a collision,
take a stronger hold of your horses, and moderate your pace, remembering
that, if you cannot avoid grief, the less the impetus the less the
crash, if it should come. This result is amusingly exemplified by the
stage-coachman’s definition of the difference between the results of road
and rail accidents. Coachey says, “If even an upset occur on the road,
_there you are_; but if an accident takes place by rail, _where are you_?”
Remember to collect your horses well in hand before you alter your
course on the road, or to cross it, in order to have them alert and handy
for any emergency.
When travelling in damp weather, the roads being sticky, half wet and
dry, your horse requires saving and consideration, no matter to what
extent the wind may be blowing, if it goes only in the _same direction
as himself_. When the roads are perfectly dry with a light wind blowing
_against_ your horse, he travels under the more favourable circumstances.
Neither blinkers nor bit should ever, upon any consideration, be removed
from a horse while he is attached to a carriage, whether to feed or for
any other purpose. Want of caution in this respect has been a fertile
source of most serious accidents.
_When a horse falls_ irretrievably in harness, the driver should avoid
leaving his seat till some assistant can go to the animal’s head, who,
placing his coat or some soft substance between it and the road, to
prevent injury to the eyes, presses one or both knees lightly on the
neck, but so as to prevent the beast from rising; which done, the driver
can get down from his seat, and, availing of all the aid he can procure,
frees all the harness as rapidly as possible, and, running back the
carriage from the horse, assists him to rise. To disengage buckles easily
in such cases, instead of dragging at the point of the strap in the usual
way, force both ends of it to the centre of the buckle, which will cause
the tongue to turn back, and so free the strap.
When a fall in harness occurs on slippery pavement such as some of the
London streets, or in frosty weather, before the horse is permitted to
make any effort to rise, some ashes, dry clay, sand, sawdust, hay or
straw, or even any old rug or piece of cloth or carpet, should be so
placed as to prevent him from slipping in his ineffectual and distressing
endeavours to recover his legs.
_Backing._—When a horse takes to backing, and danger is threatened, if
you cannot get him forward, and have no assistant to take him by the
head, the more rapidly you bring the brute’s head to the point where
he aims at bringing his tail the better. It is a bad _habit_, however,
to give an animal, to allow of his being taken by the head when he is
obstreperous, and should only be resorted to when quite unavoidable.
_Kicking in Harness._—When there is no kicking-strap or other means of
restraint available, and an animal seems disposed to persist in kicking,
the driver, _retaining his seat_, should direct some one to hold up one
of the fore feet (if he finds a difficulty in doing so, doubling the knee
and tying a handkerchief tightly round it) so as to prevent the foot
reaching the ground, which done, the driver may help to unharness, while
the other assistant takes hold of the horse’s head.
_Shying._—See page 88.
_Runaways_ are frequently checked by sawing the mouth. In such cases,
retain your presence of mind, determined to stick to the ship to the
last; if you have the luck to meet with an ascent, that is your time to
get a pull.
A horse that has once run away, especially if, in connection with that
feat, he has met with any noisy disaster or breakage, is _never, as long
as he lives, safe to drive again_. It only remains for his owner to use
humanity and judgment in disposing of him.
_Stubborn horses_, or _jibbers_, in single harness.—On the first
appearance of this disposition at starting, the neck should be
examined, to discover whether the fit may not have been occasioned by
indisposition to work against an ill-fitting or dirty collar, which may
have produced abrasion or tenderness of the skin under it (_see_ page
61). If the unpleasantness proceed from innate stubbornness in the brute,
and simple means do not succeed in single harness, place him in double
harness, beside a well-tempered, good worker, that will _drag him away_,
starting _down-hill_. In this manner the habit, if not confirmed, will be
overcome. In _extreme_ cases, different appliances have been used with
varied success in making the beast move on—such as a round pebble, about
the size of a hen’s egg, placed in the ear, and secured with a cord tied
round the latter, near the tip, or stuffing a glove in each ear. I have
also seen coachmen put two or three handfuls of mud into the horse’s
mouth, and rub it against his palate with good effect, or tap him with a
stick at the back of the fore legs, just under the knee.
Letting a stubborn beast stand for hours in harness in the spot where
he has taken the fit, and, when he has become well hungered, placing a
feed of corn before him and gradually walking away with it, is a dilatory
proceeding sometimes resorted to, but scarcely worth mentioning.
DRAWING.
The size of horses should be in proportion to the weight and size of the
vehicle and loads they are intended to move, upon the principle, easily
demonstrated by experiment, that weight drags weight. For instance, a
horse having to drag a cart up a hill, will do so more easily with the
driver on his back than otherwise, as the weight of the man assists the
horse against the weight he has to move. The latter part of this argument
only refers, however, to short distances, or to starting a draught.
The higher the wheels are, and the closer together, whether they be
two or four, the lighter will be the draught. In fact, to render the
draught as easy as possible, the axles ought to be on a level with
the trace-hooks, or point of traction, or as nearly horizontal as
possible with the traces and their place in the leg of the hames. It
is self-evident that if a horse has to be pulling _up_, it is like his
having to raise a certain part of the weight of the carriage with every
step he moves; and the faster he goes, the more injuriously does this
principle operate against him.
The point of the pole-and-chain attachment should be always so elevated
from its insertion in the carriage as to be on a level with the rings
of the hames through which the pole-chains pass. On the point of the
pole should be a revolving steel cross-tree, from eight to ten inches in
length, in the ends of which the pole-chains or leathers are inserted.
The working of this contrivance will, to any practical man, demonstrate
its utility.
In light double harness, I much prefer using swinging-bars instead of one
inflexible splinter-bar, unless for very heavy draught. Horses should be
placed close to their work. For adjusting the traces to that effect, see
page 58.
It should be remembered that the farther forward in a carriage the weight
to be drawn is placed, the easier will be the draught on the horse. Thus
the weight of one man at the extreme end of the vehicle (like a conductor
on an omnibus) has as much effect on the traction as that of two men on
or near the driving-seat. The deader the weight, let it be placed as it
may, the greater the trial of the horse; therefore inanimate matter is
heavier on traction than anything having life.
Vehicles of which the lower carriage and axles are kept braced together
by a perch steadying the action of the wheels, are much the easiest on
the draught. The Americans are well aware of the advantages of such a
construction for encountering the roughness of many of their roads. Not
only are all their pleasure carriages, or “buggies,” so constructed,
but the waggons have a perch that by an admirable arrangement can be
detached, to allow of the carriage being lengthened when required to
carry timber or other lading. The perch, being in two pieces, can be
coupled by the simple contrivance of a movable iron band and pin, giving
a freedom, most desirable in a rough country, to the movement of the
lower carriage. This contrivance works well, and might with advantage
be applied to our military train-waggons and ambulance-carts. Horses
cannot but suffer from the present construction of carriages in general
use, where the axles are left unsupported and unbraced to encounter the
roughness and inequalities of the road.
_Axle-Boxes._—Proper lubrication of the axle-boxes is too often sadly
neglected. Even Collinge’s patent will not run freely without periodical
aid in proportion to use, and it is no harm to make an occasional
examination of the wheels of a carriage when they are lifted off the
ground by setters, to see that there is thorough freedom in the working
of them, by spinning them round with one’s finger against the spokes. The
reapplication of gutta-percha or leather washers is essential, as the
amount of friction by work will wear that requisite.
For a few days after the washers are replaced, the boxes should not be
screwed too tightly, but subsequently they should be re-tightened. The
noise of wheels joggling upon their axles indicates want of screwing up,
or of washers.
A round tire is decidedly easier for draught than a flat-edged one.
_Carriages_, immediately after use, should be cleaned, or at least have
water dashed over them, to prevent the mud from drying on the paint,
which can scarcely fail to deteriorate it, and give it a premature
appearance of wear.
SHOEING.
Some horses are very averse to being shod, through some fright the first
time of shoeing, or bad management. It is better to overcome such shyness
or vice by gentleness or stratagem than by force of any kind.
Some few animals even require to be cast, or placed under the influence
of the painful twitch. Before resorting to any force, however, the
following means should be tried in preference to others:—Let whoever is
in the habit of riding or exercising the horse _mount him_ when regularly
bridled and saddled, the girths being a little looser that if intended
for work; ride to the side of the forge, and there let him (his rider
still on his back) be shod the first time; on the second visit to the
forge, if it be spacious enough, he may be ridden into it for the same
purpose.
In shoeing, the smith’s rule ought to be to fit the shoe to the foot,
_not the foot to the shoe_, according to the general practice of those
gentry.
In London and all large towns, the best thing a gentleman can do is
to contract with a veterinary surgeon for the shoeing as well as the
doctoring of his horses.
The night previous to a horse being shod or removed, the groom should
stop his feet, to soften them, and enable the farrier to use his
drawing-knife properly, and without injury to that instrument.
In shoeing, any _undue_ accumulation of sole may be pared away;
judgment must, however, be used in this particular, as the feet of some
animals grow more sole than others, and superfluous increase tends
to contraction, whereas care must be taken not to weaken the sole of
ordinary growth. I am aware that great difference of opinion exists on
this subject, but I speak from practical experience of the results of
opposite modes of treatment in this particular.
If no shoes were used, the wear and tear of work would provide for the
disposal of this accumulation, which, as nature is interfered with by the
use of shoes, must be artificially removed.
If the frog be jagged it may be pared even, but the sound parts should
not be cut away, and on no account should the smith’s drawing-knife
be allowed to divide the bars or returns of the foot—an operation
technically called by the trade “opening the heels,” to which fallacious
practice farriers are pertinaciously addicted, because, in some one case
of dreadfully contracted feet, they may have seen or heard of temporary
relief being given by this process, with the natural result, which they
ignore, of the remedy proving itself in time worse than the disease.
If farriers are allowed, they will almost invariably drive as many
shoe-nails round the inside quarter as the outside. This is a lamentable
mistake, especially regarding the fore feet, as the foot being thus
nearly all round confined to the shoe, its proper action is interfered
with, preventing a possibility of its natural and gradual expansion in
action from the toe towards the heel, as the horse lays his foot upon the
ground, with all weight, as well as the act of propulsion, pressed on it.
The reason for liberating the inside quarter in preference to the outside
is, that the inside, being more under the centre of gravity, will be
found to expand and contract more than the outside, as will be proved by
the removal and examination of a shoe that has been in use three or four
weeks. On observing the part of the shoe that has been next the foot,
it will be distinctly perceived that the friction of the inside quarter
of the foot has worn a cavity in the portion of the shoe which has been
under that quarter of the foot, while the side that has been under the
outside quarter bears comparatively little evidence of friction above it.
This being an established fact, it seems desirable that the full number
of nails should be driven round the outside quarter, and not more than
one or two (for hunting purposes) on the inside from the toe. (Six nails
altogether is the cavalry regulation.)
If your horses are not quick wearers on the road, the fore shoes should
be removed within two or three weeks after shoeing (care being taken that
the clenches of the nails in the hind feet are at the same time properly
levelled to the hoof to prevent brushing), and let them be re-shod every
five or six weeks.
In all foot ailments, whenever a horse is lame, although the disease
may not apparently be in the foot, let the shoe first be carefully
removed, and the shoeless foot examined by as competent a farrier as can
be procured (in the absence of a veterinary surgeon), by pincers round
the nail-holes, gently pressing wall and sole together, by the hammer
tapping the sole, and a judicious use of the drawing-knife, to detect the
possible seat of disease.
I have known a lame horse to be brought to a reputedly-experienced
amateur horse-doctor, the cause of disease being so evidently
inflammation of the sheath of the tendon, that the animal was ordered
to be treated accordingly—viz., with cold applications; and this not
succeeding, firing the leg was resorted to, after which, the weather
being suitable, it was thought expedient to let the beast have a run at
grass. As a preliminary the shoes were removed, in the course of which
operation a bed of gravel was found to have secreted itself in the foot
of the supposed diseased leg, and the inflammation occasioned by the
gravel having gone up, caused what appeared to be _marked_ disease about
the tendon.
Such were the results of neglecting the precautions here recommended.
_Brushing_, or cutting, is a very tormenting weakness in the horse,
whether behind or before, and often highly dangerous in the latter case.
The ordinary practice of farriers under such circumstances is to rasp
away the inside quarter of the offending hoof, as well as doubly
thickening the shoe under the weakened wall, leaving the toe to extend
itself forward. This is a great mistake, yielding only a temporary
improvement, not at all tending towards a cure. On the contrary, it would
be better to shorten the toes by degrees; and on no account should a rasp
be put near the wall of the inside quarter, in order to let it get as
strong as possible towards the heel.
I would certainly allow no nails to be driven inside, but let the shoe be
fastened round the outer quarter of the foot, the shoe itself being of
equal thickness on both quarters as an ordinary shoe; but on putting it
on, it should not be suffered to project outside the inside quarter, and
the _shoes_ might _here_ be rasped to guard against rough edges, which
might injure the pastern of the opposite leg during work.
A strong clip should also be thrown up on the outside quarters of these
shoes to catch the wall and effectually prevent them from shifting
towards or projecting beyond the inside quarter, which might cause them
to come in contact with the opposite pastern-joint while in motion.
Until the brushing be somewhat remedied, an india-rubber ring or a bit
of leather, and elastic strap round the pastern, will prevent it from
receiving present injury. If the above treatment is attended to and
persevered in, the probability is that in nine cases out of ten a cure
will be effected in course of time.
_Corns._—Every horse-owner ought to make himself acquainted with the
part of the sole between the frog and the wall on the inside quarter
of the fore foot, called the seat of corns (_see_ pages 131 and 140),
and every time that a horse is shod or removed, in paring the foot the
drawing-knife should be used to clean away this cavity (without weakening
the adjacent wall), where the disease originates from undue pressure
of the shoe on the _inside_ quarter of that susceptible spot, or from
friction of the coffin-bone, on the inside of the sole, above the seat of
corn. The shoe ought to rest _entirely_ on the _wall_ of the foot, and
not on _any_ part of the _sole_.
_Roughing_ and _Frosting_ is simply drawing out the old nails about
the toes and replacing them with very large sharp-headed ones, called
frost-nails. Horse-nails being made purposely of a soft metal, are unfit
for frosting, as the heads wear down so quickly. If smiths would _steel_
the _heads_ of frost-nails, they would last much longer. This precaution
against slipping, however, is only effectual in slight frosts. In regular
frosting, the nails are carried completely round, with the addition of
sharp calkins being turned on the heels of all four feet, and sometimes
also short spikes or cogs turned down from the toes; but the latter are
common only in severe climates, though their use is quite as desirable
in England, especially to assist horses in ascending slippery hills,
where the cogs on the heels have little or no hold in the ground. Cogs or
calkins should be rasped by the smith, to sharpen them, every couple of
days.
Although it may be inconvenient and expensive to have horses prepared in
frosty weather, it is highly necessary to do so where work is required
of them. The very extraordinary exertion that is needed on the part of
the animal to keep his feet when unprepared, as well as the fret to his
energies, takes a vast deal more out of him in one day’s work than a
month’s daily use would do under ordinary circumstances, not to speak of
the risk of pecuniary loss from accident.
It is a most pitiable thing to see the poor beasts struggling in their
high courage and good temper to do their best, for what I can only call
cruel or thoughtless masters, to say nothing of the liability of the
animals’ breaking their knees and bringing their riders or drivers to
serious trouble, smashing harness and vehicles, &c.
I have always found servants most ingenious in making objections to
having their horses prepared for frost, the grand secret being their
anxiety to keep them in the stable the whole time the frost lasts, that
they may be saved from the trouble of cleaning either them or their
caparison, carriages, &c. They will alarm you with the stereotyped
objections, “tearing the horses’ feet to pieces,” “driving fresh
nail-holes,” “ripping off shoes,” “his feet won’t bear a shoe after,” &c.
I never knew an ordinary sound foot to be reduced to such a condition, by
simply changing shoes, that a good smith could not fasten a shoe on.
The only tangible objection to calkins to which attention need be drawn
is, that during their use, unless the horse is moved about in his stable
with great caution in cleaning or otherwise, he is apt to tread with them
on the coronet of the opposite foot, which is a very serious affair,
inflicting a nasty jagged wound on one of the most sensitive vascular
parts of the animal.[26]
The _Bar Shoe_ going all round the foot is intended to protect weak or
thrushy heels.
_Wide-webbed_ or _Surface Shoes_ are used with flat-footed, weak-soled
horses: leather being often introduced above them to save the soles from
being damaged by extraneous substances on the road. Put on with the
ordinary shoe, it is said to lessen the jar of the tread.
_High-heeled Shoes_, when a horse is laid up, properly managed, prove a
most effectual palliation and aid in the cure of “clap of the back sinew”
(page 143).
These shoes are made with calkins (joined by a light iron bar), which
should not be heavy, not more than an inch deep, and gradually reduced by
the smith as the disease abates.
_Steeling the Toes_ is necessary with quick wearers on the road; but
particular cautions should be given to the smith to work the steel well
into the iron, for any protrusion of this hard metal above the iron will
occasion tripping, and possibly an irrecoverable fall.
_Calking_ the hind shoes moderately on the outside quarter only, is most
essential to the hunter to prevent slipping, and to give him confidence
in going at his fences, and on landing. Its advantages can be well
understood by any sportsman who has experienced the difference between
walking himself a day’s simple shooting over soft slippery ground, or
taking a ten-mile walk on a half-wet road, in each case in boots with
headed nails, to enable him to have a hold in the ground, and undertaking
the same exercises in boots without nails, where one wearies himself with
efforts to keep his feet.
I speak as a practical man, having probably come to less grief than most
others in hunting, which may be attributed mainly to the particular
attention bestowed on the calking of my bearers when I was a hard goer.
It seems an unimportant matter, but if looked into will be found to be
far otherwise.
_Tips_, or half-shoes, which cover little more than the toe of a
horse, leaving the heels to come in direct contact with the ground,
are particularly serviceable in cases where the heels are disposed to
contraction, and, from my experience, can be used without injury in any
ordinary description of work while the frog is sound.
The quarters of the feet being left by their use without the usual
confinement of the shoe, and being pressed to expansion on every movement
of the animal, naturally become strong and extended. Tips should become
gradually thinner, finishing in a fine edge towards the ends. I have seen
ill-made tips calculated to lame any horse, with the ends the thickness
of an ordinary shoe (though extending, which is the intention of tips,
less than half-way down the foot), as if the smith who made them expected
the heels to remain always suspended in mid air.
_Slippers._—Regular sportsmen generally carry a spare shoe while hunting;
but if a shoe comes off one of the fore feet in the field or on the road,
and the rider is not provided with a proper shoe, he should at once
dismount and lead his bearer to the nearest forge, where an old shoe most
approaching to the size of the foot that can possibly be found should be
selected from the heap of cast ones that generally lies by in a forge,
and let it be tacked on with three or four nails only, so as to serve the
creature to get home, or until the proper shoe can be made.
If a shoe comes off the hind foot, and the distance from home is not
above three or four miles, the animal can be led or occasionally ridden
that far without injury, especially if the softest side of the road be
selected for the track, the hind feet being generally much stronger than
the fore.
_Travelling._—The day before a long journey, look to your horse’s shoes;
see that the clinches are well laid down and the shoes nailed tightly.
As a rule, do not have new shoes put on just before a journey, for the
least carelessness in fitting or nailing them may occasion more or less
lameness; should it be severe, disappointment and delay may result; while
if only apparently slight at starting, and the animal endure the pain
patiently during its work, the cause being in existence throughout will
produce its effects only too palpably when the day’s journey is over. If
old shoes are nearly worn, but will last the journey, let them by all
means remain on; but directly the work is over, send for any proper smith
whose forge is nearest, and have them taken off in the stable. Should
the forge not be at hand, the old slippers can of course be tacked on
when the horse, having had its rest, is taken to be shod. All shoes, for
road-work especially, should be made full long to cover the heels. It
should be borne in mind that, as the hoof grows naturally, the shoe is
brought forward and thereby exposes the heels.
VICE.
In all cases where active vice, such as rearing, kicking, jibbing,
plunging, has to be combated, the work of correction is half done if the
horse is well tired in the first instance, or, in vulgar terms, “the
fiery edge taken off him,” by half an hour’s rapid loungeing, with his
neck well bent, chin into chest, on the softest and most tiring ground
that is available. For myself, if I find a horse vicious, I never think
of combating him if it can be helped, without having first reduced his
vigour a little; and all horsemen who undertake to conquer any seriously
bad habits are recommended to consider and adopt this practice, if indeed
such is not already their custom.
_Kicking_, to the horseman, is a matter of very trifling consideration.
He may either amuse himself by letting the ebullition expend itself, or
it may be stopped by chucking up the horse’s head and increasing the pace.
_Kicking in Harness_ is a different affair, being generally the prelude
to disaster, and must be guarded against.—_See_ page 58.
_Kicking in the Stable._—Many animals, most gentle in other respects,
take inordinate fits of this practice, and generally in the dead of
night, as if to make up for their usual quietude on all other occasions;
most frequently they resort to the amusement without any apparent cause
of irritation whatever. They will do it when alone or when in company;
while, were it not for the capped hock and otherwise disfigured legs, as
well as the dilapidated stabling behind them, discovered in the morning,
you would think that “butter wouldn’t melt in their mouths.” In other
cases the habit proceeds from obvious bad temper or spite towards a
neighbour. There are many cures proposed for kicking in the stable. One
frequently successful is a round log of wood, four or five inches long
and about two in diameter, with a staple at one end of it, through which
a chain two or three inches long is passed and attached to a strap that
buckles round the pastern (just above the coronet) of one hind leg, or
a log in this way to each hind leg may be used if necessary. Another
means is to pad all parts of the stable that can be reached by the hind
feet. In many instances where this plan is adopted, the animal, no longer
hearing any noise suggesting to his fancy resistance from behind, will
cease kicking altogether, from no other explainable cause. For padding
use some pads of hay or oaten straw, covered with coarse canvass, and
nailed to all places within reach of his heels. Sometimes, where the
habit is supposed to arise from spite towards a neighbour, a change of
location will answer. In other cases nothing but arming all parts of the
stable within reach with furze bushes, or other prickly repellants, will
succeed.
It will be well, in treating this vice, to try the remedies here
recommended in rotation; first with the otherwise quiet horse try the
log, then the padding, the change of location, and the prickly armour
in succession. It is a remarkable fact that horses seldom kick in the
stable during daylight; leaving a light in the stable through the night
may therefore effect a cure where all else has failed; but as light
interferes with sleep, it should be the very last resource.
_Rearing_ is of little consequence in harness, and seldom attempted to
any extent; but to the rider it is, in my opinion, the most dangerous
of all bad habits to which a brute may be addicted. As I consider it
almost impossible for a horseman to cure a practised rearer, my advice
to the owner of such a beast would be, instead of risking his life in
the endeavour, to get rid of him to some buyer, who will place him
where, in the penal servitude of harness, he may perhaps eke out a
useful existence. However, should accident place you on a rearer,
directly he rises lay hold of the mane with one hand; this, while at once
throwing your weight forward where it should be, will enable you also to
completely slacken the reins, which is important.
No one need be ashamed to adopt this plan. I have seen the best riders do
so.
Vicious rearing may, on its first manifestation, be sometimes checked by
a determined and reckless rider giving a well-directed blow on the ear
with some bothering missile; but this is a venturesome proceeding, and
only in emergency should it be resorted to, as an ill-directed blow is
very likely to produce poll-evil, or knock the sight out of an eye.
It is said that a bottle full of water, broken on the ear of a rearing
horse, proves an effectual cure; but happily the danger to the rider
during such treatment of his bearer, is a strong guarantee against the
frequent adoption of this barbarous practice. In many cases lowering one
hand with the rein on that side when the horse is just beginning to rise,
will have the effect of breaking the rear, the horse being urged forward
with the spur the instant his fore legs are down; but if, when he has
gained anything like the perpendicular, the rein or head be chucked, or
by any misfortune interfered with, the chances are that the brute will
walk about on his hind legs like a dancing dog, and most likely finish by
falling back on his rider.
A martingal is sometimes found to be a preventive, especially a running
one.
_Jibbing._—The disposition to this vice is generally called into action,
in the first instance, by the fret consequent on the abrasion of the neck
by the collar, or by the working of uneven traces (page 57). The use of
a saving-collar, and the careful adjustment of the traces, may therefore
obviate the propensity.
Sometimes jibbing is the effect of bad handling when starting with a
heavy load. Where such a disposition evinces itself, the carriage should
be pushed from behind, or another horse placed beside, or, if possible,
in front of the jibber, to lead him off.
_Shying_ may proceed from various causes, such as defective sight,
nervousness, or tricks; thus it may be the result of either
constitutional infirmity or of vice. From whatever cause proceeding, the
proper way to manage a shying horse is to turn his head _away from_ the
object at which he shies, in riding, pressing the spur to the same side
to which his head is turned; thus, if the object he dislikes be on the
right, turn his head to the left, and press your left leg, giving him
that spur, and _vice versa_, according to the side on which the object
to be avoided is found. If you have to deal with a bad shyer, your time
being precious, and you only care to get through your present ride with
the least unpleasantness possible, in addition to the above-mentioned
means, take him, if necessary, well by the head, the reins in each hand,
and saw or job his mouth rather sharply, keeping him in rapid motion till
you pass the object.
Operating thus on his mouth _severely_, if necessary, will engage his
attention, and cheat him out of his apprehension for the moment. It
is bad horsemanship, and dangerous besides, to force a horse’s head
_towards_ an offending object while in motion; but if it is particularly
desirable that the animal should become familiarised with anything of
which he is shy, let him be brought to a standstill, and coaxed up
gradually to it, that he may assure himself of its harmlessness by
smelling and feeling it with his nose and lips, if possible. Punishment
by whip or spur—what is called “cramming” him up to a thing—is a vile
error.
When a horse is found to evince a confirmed objection to passing a
particular place, and that he keeps bolting and turning viciously in
spite of all ordinary efforts to prevent it, take him at his own fancy,
and keep turning and turning him till he is so tired of that game that
he will only be too glad to go forward past the objectionable spot. A
horse’s sense of smelling is very acute, and sometimes a dead animal in
the ditch or field by the side of the road, though unseen, will cause an
abrupt and very unseating sort of a shy, with an ordinarily quiet beast
of sensitive olfactory nerves.
SELLING.
If the horse you wish to dispose of be a fancy one, either for beauty,
action, or disposition, and a fancy price be required, efforts must be
made to obtain the fancy customer to suit, and time and attention must be
devoted to that object. But if he be of the ordinary useful class, unless
a purchaser be found at once, let the owner, directly he has made up his
mind to part with him, think of the best market available, whether public
auction, a fair, or private sale by commission.
The public auction, with a good description of the animal’s merits, if
he has any, is the readiest and least troublesome mode of disposing of
all unsuitable property; and from my own experience, I should say that
the better plan is to make up one’s mind positively to dispose of such
the first time it is put up by the auctioneer, having, of course, placed
a reasonable and rather low reserve price on it, and provided that the
sale be fairly attended by purchasers; otherwise I should not allow my
property to be offered until a more favourable opportunity.
A valuable and fancy animal, if his owner is not pressed to sell, had
better be disposed of by full advertisement and private sale at his own
stable. It is bad management to exhibit for sale an animal that is out
of condition; it always pays to make your horse look as well as possible
before he meets the eye of a customer. There is an old and true saying,
“no meat sells so well as horse meat”—of course animal flesh is here
alluded to.
CAPRICE.[27]
All horsemen know how whimsical horses are, and the best riders feel a
certain amount of diffidence, and even awkwardness, on beginning with any
new mount, until a more perfect acquaintance is established between man
and horse.
A horseman who identifies himself with his steed will sometimes by a
mere fluke hit off the means of having his own way with a capricious
though perhaps really well-disposed animal, if one only knew the way to
manage him.
For instance, a first-class hunter of my own (Baronet), whose excellent
performance in the field, where I had seen him tried, induced me to
purchase him, soon gave evidence of a peculiarity for which, unknown to
me, he had made himself remarkable. No ordinary means could prevail upon
him to go through any street of a town except such as he pleased himself,
of which he gave me evidence the first day I had occasion to try him in
that way, walking on his hind legs directly his will was disputed on the
subject, even to the extent of a mere pressure on the rein at the side
he was required to turn. In my difficulty, instinct prompted me to drop
the reins and gently direct his progress with the point of the whip at
the side of his nose, and in this way he went ever after as quiet as
a sheep with me. Having discovered his caprice, I was always provided
with a handle of a whip or a switch of some kind for his benefit. Riding
him one day into Dycer’s, an old acquaintance of his, well aware of
his propensity, exclaimed in terms not complimentary to Baronet at my
possession of him, and was much amused when I told him my simple method
of managing this self-willed gentleman.
The same sort of what I can scarcely help terming “instinct” that has
often taught me, and doubtless hundreds of other practical horsemen,
to meet the whims of their steeds so as to suit themselves, produced
a victory somewhat similar to the foregoing over an animal that, in
the presence of a large assemblage interested in his performance, most
determinedly refused to _trot_, though ridden successively by the most
skilled nagsmen Dycer’s yard could produce, as well as by Dycer himself.
I proposed to try my hand, and the animal at first start pursued the same
uneasy half-canter with me; but perceiving that he seemed particularly
desirous to take a drink from a trough that happened to be in the way,
I allowed his attention to be distracted by taking as much water as he
pleased from it; and then turning him in the opposite direction from that
in which he had so obstinately persisted in his own gait, patting and
doing all I could to reassure him, dropping the bit-rein altogether, and
taking a very light and lengthened hold of the snaffle-rein, I let him
move off at his own pace, which, to the surprise of every one present
(my own, I admit, included), proved to be a walk, which he immediately
changed into a jog-trot all up the yard, winning for me a bet of twenty
sovereigns to one from the late Edward Dycer, that the horse could not be
made to trot within a quarter of an hour of the rider mounting.
Now, it is only caprice that can account for the likes and dislikes of
horses about going lead or wheel in four-in-hand. One horse will not stir
till removed from the wheel, and another will be equally unmanageable
if assigned the leader’s part, while an exchange of places will perhaps
render both animals perfectly tractable.
In double harness it may sometimes be observed that an animal, while
working by itself, or with others not faster, will casually show great
spirit, but when coupled with another possessing more life and action, it
will seem at once subdued from its former liveliness, and go along like
a slug, quite out of sorts at finding itself outpaced, &c., while its
more sprightly neighbour will exhibit a double ebullition of spirits,
as if in reproach to say, “Why can’t you come on?” To prove such cases
of whimsicality further, replace the apparent sluggard by coupling with
our vivacious steed a more lively and active animal, and you will see the
latter in his turn become subdued and “shut up,” in comparison with his
previous sprightliness.
Again, although the animal is decidedly gregarious, a horse, from some
dislike to its companions or other whim, will absolutely pine and cease
to thrive in a stall stabled with others, and be restored to its usual
spirits and health on removal to a loose-box. Such animals are generally
restless at night, and show great ability in smashing their head-collars.
On the other hand, most horses like company, and will pine away if kept
alone.
These things should be studied.
IRISH HUNTERS, AND THE BREEDING OF GOOD HORSES.
Much attention has latterly been attracted to the deterioration in the
superior breeds of horses, having reference more to a decline of power
and endurance than to diminished swiftness.
There is no reason why our old fame for breeding good horses of every
kind should not be maintained. Unrelaxed attention must nevertheless
be given to some well-known and established rules respecting breeding,
and more marked encouragement might with advantage be in every way
afforded to the production and rearing of young animals of a superior
and valuable description. We would therefore suggest that prizes for
young ones should be more liberally and generally awarded at exhibitions;
likewise a careful revision and alteration of many of the present
regulations in connection with racing.
The importance of most careful scrutiny in selecting the progenitors
of horses can never be overrated; and though in Ireland experience has
proved in many instances that a good hunter can be produced from a dam
which, in England, would be considered too small, too plain, the _blood_
in both parents has invariably been of the best. The mare, or perhaps her
parents, might have been half-starved—no uncommon result of the scarcity
of food during many successive years of adversity among the poorer
classes in the former country—but her progenitors had been large powerful
animals.
As, in the due course of things, it results in time that every
denomination of useful horse, excepting, perhaps, the heavy dray and
cart horse breeds, is influenced by the characteristics transmitted more
particularly to the powerful, enduring, moderately fleet animal properly
designated the hunter, it is a subject of deep interest to the community
at large to know how the latter should be produced.
The “Irish hunter” is admitted to possess in a remarkable manner the
qualities most desirable in a horse of that or the generally useful
class. Hardy, enduring, courageous, strong, short-legged, short-backed,
long-sided, tolerably fast, but any deficiency in speed made up for
by jumping power; all action, able to jump anything and everything;
intuitive lovers of fencing; their sagacity such that you have only to
get on their backs and leave the rest to themselves;—under ordinary
circumstances it is almost impossible to throw these animals.
[Illustration: THE PROPER FORM]
Such is the breeding that I should be inclined to cross with that of
the powerful English race-horse as sire, taking blood as nearly pure as
possible in both parents, for the purpose of securing valuable stock,
which would in time be dispersed over the country, and replace the
progeny of those weedy thorough-breds which, in Ireland especially, have
done much towards the decline in power and endurance of the present
generation of so-called Irish hunters. The parentage might, of course, be
reversed between sire and dam.
As to the question of climate, any one really interested in discovering
its possible effects might be curious to know what would characterise the
produce of a high-bred English racer and Irish huntress foaled and reared
in France.
As far as we can judge from the peculiarities of those horses with which
we are most familiar, extremes of either heat or cold are unfavourable to
the development of _size_; whereas, under both conditions, a vast amount
of endurance seems to be natural.
The Norwegian and the Arab, differing materially in point of swiftness,
are both notorious for endurance. The plodding perseverance of the first
is well known; while the Arab, ridden at an even gait with a fair weight,
will go with impunity a greater distance, at a rate of eighteen to twenty
miles an hour, than the best European can do. In sporting language, the
Arab can “stay” better than the European.
Arab breeders rarely offer a really high-bred animal for sale under four,
and generally five, years of age; hence he cannot receive the education
bestowed upon the European racer, who, before he is three, often at
less than two, years of age, is taught by the most scientific riders in
the world to “go from the post” at very nearly top speed—a species of
training that sometimes results in his beating horses which are really
superior in every respect except that of being ready at starting, and
capable of putting on their best speed at once. Besides, in those hot
climates the young animal has not the advantage of a soft elastic turf,
so essential to training, nor has he the assistance of proper trainers
and jockeys.
It is much to be regretted that the breeders of Arabia cannot be tempted,
for almost any price, to part with truly high-bred mares, wisely
retaining them to breed for the benefit of their native land.
Warmth of climate seems thus, as instanced in the Arab, to favour
swiftness and endurance; though, on the other hand, we may point to the
mild, moist, but scarcely warm climate of our islands, as having fostered
the production of animals possessing these qualities in the first degree,
in addition to size and power beyond those of the Arab.
France has latterly, since the introduction of pure blood, produced some
splendid horses; but time must tell whether the perfections of these
animals are as lasting as those of others whose early growth may not have
been so much forced by a more genial climate. Therefore, as far as we
know at present, the climate of England is as favourable as that of any
other land to the production and development of perfection in the horse,
the specimens of which that she has presented being hitherto unsurpassed.
It would appear that we make a serious mistake in not providing greater
encouragement to breeders and purchasers of yearlings and two-years-old
of the different descriptions. A decided advantage would, we think,
result from competition among these classes at horse-shows, due care
being necessarily given to placing them in a situation specially adapted
for them, and where they would be free from noise and excitement. Nothing
would tend more to incite to the careful breeding of horses among farmers
than the possibility of obtaining handsome prizes, and thereby securing
the prospect of early remuneration; while the opportunity for market
afforded by these exhibitions would present additional inducements to the
rearing and purchase of young animals. Having in view the encouragement
of a superior breed of horses, it is beginning at the wrong end not to
support it, in the first place, by allotting at such meetings the most
numerous and valuable prizes to the babies.
Fortunately the ventilation given to this important subject of the
deterioration in our horses, more especially in that particular class
denominated the Irish hunter, has aroused the interest of the country at
large, and already led to more earnest efforts on the part of the landed
proprietors and breeders to regain lost ground.
It ought to be borne in mind that the light weights allowed by the
present racing laws for Queen’s plates are, as examples for weighting in
other races, most pernicious. These grants from the Crown were originally
bestowed with the view to encourage the raising of strong thorough-breds,
capable of carrying twelve stone sometimes for four or even five mile
heats; therefore the present arrangement of weights is positively,
however unintentionally, a misapplication of those public funds.
It is probably to the turfmen that the change in the character of
steeplechasing is greatly due; they found it their interest gradually
to alter the weights and distances, so as to bring profitably into play
their second and third rate beaten race-horses. Steeplechases were not
intended for these latter, whose perfection is in proportion to their
speed. Pace is not the chief desideratum in hunters, to prove the
qualities of which steeple or castle chases were instituted; power and
endurance are at least as essential: and it is contrary to the law of
nature, as well as of mechanics, to combine a maximum of speed with that
of power, and _vice versa_. Either will preponderate to the detriment of
the other.
The difficulties, natural and artificial, presented by the general face
of the country in Ireland, have no doubt contributed to the development
of those qualities which render the Irish hunter so valuable. The style
of fence is continually varied; and in the course of a run there will
be encountered double ditches, with a narrow or wide bank, single ones,
stone walls, brooks, bullfinches, gates, wide drains, and occasionally
posts and rails, or iron palings—hurdles being, however, of rare
occurrence; but the horse that can master the above impediments to his
course will soon find out how to jump a hurdle.
[Illustration: PREPARATORY CANTER]
The Irish colt has sometimes also a kind of training not expressly
designed for him by his owner; for being not unfrequently left with other
animals in a field affording an insufficient supply of grass for them
all, he undertakes to prove the truth of the proverb that hunger will
break through stone walls, by jumping over if not through one to obtain
more or better food.
Transplanted to England, the accomplished Irish hunter often finds
himself tested in a manner strange to him; the rate of speed is greater
than he has been accustomed to, for the Green Isle has not yet adopted
generally the extremely swift pace of hounds now so much in vogue
in England, and is thence, as regards the hounds and the horses, in
unquestionably the most sportsmanlike condition. It was never intended
that hunting should become steeplechasing; and the unnatural pace to
which hounds are now forced causes them often to overrun the scent after
they have got away; then, when at fault, the entire ruck of the field
have an opportunity of coming up, to be, of course, once more distanced,
at the repeated sacrifice of the sound principles of hunting, and to the
disadvantage of the true breed of hunters.
If breeders of horses would give their full attention to the pursuit,
there is no reason why they should not be as successful in producing the
best description of every class of this animal, as breeders of sheep and
cattle are in their line. By judicious crossing, animals can be secured
with any peculiar characteristics that may be desired; and for the
encouragement of energy and exertion in this direction, we may remind
our readers that there is now so much competition for the possession
of first-class horses, that our Continental neighbours constantly
outbid us, having learned to value them even more than we do who have
been suffering our best sires to be bought up and removed from their
native soil to improve the foreign stock. It is not impossible that,
circumstances having directed so much attention to this subject, good
will in this as in many other cases spring out of evil, and the fostering
of valuable breeds of horses will become a more widely-recognised source
of emolument than it has been for many years past, regaining, likewise,
its proper standing among Britons as a matter of deep national interest
and importance.
PART II.
DISEASES.
When I had nearly completed this little manual, chance placed in my way
a valuable work called the ‘Illustrated Horse-Doctor,’ by Edward Mayhew,
M.R.C.V.S., which has borne me out in many of my opinions regarding
various diseases, and given me some useful elucidation as to the latest
approved treatment of some ailments.
I would strenuously recommend the work for its simplicity and usefulness
to country gentlemen and other owners of valuable horses who can afford
to purchase it; they would derive great assistance from it, not only
as far as regards the written matter, but also from the spirited and
very characteristic illustrations, exemplifying more clearly than any
description possibly can do, matters connected with the treatment of
horses under disease.
As to this little work, any remedy herein advised to be used, without
reference to competent authorities, is practical and may be depended on,
though intended to be harmless in any event.
However, every one must be aware that doctors will differ, and some who
are critics may have pet theories of their own, which they might here and
there prefer to parts of the practice here recommended.
It may be borne in mind, nevertheless, that diseases, like politics, with
time and occasion are liable to change their character.
Many diseases are far more easily prevented than cured; and I must, in
the very first instance, protest against the unnatural and injurious
warmth by heated foul air, so much advocated by grooms, as a means of
giving _condition_, to produce which, food, work, and air are the safe
and natural agents.
Wherever a means of avoiding any disease herein touched upon has
suggested itself, it is prominently set forth, in just appreciation of
the golden rule, that “prevention is better than cure.”
OPERATIONS.
As all painful operations can now be performed under the influence
of chloroform, the least compensation an owner can make to his poor
beast for the tortures he is put to, in order to enhance his value and
usefulness to his master, is to lay an injunction on the professional
attendant to make use of this merciful provision, in cases where severe
pain must otherwise be inflicted on the animal.
Rarey’s method of casting for operations, or when a horse is so extremely
unruly as to require to be thrown down, may be thus quoted from his own
directions:—
“Everything that we want to teach a horse must be commenced in some way
to give him an idea of what you want him to do, and then be repeated till
he learns perfectly.
“To make a horse lie down, bend his left fore-leg and slip a loop over
it, so that he cannot get it down. Then put a surcingle round his body,
and fasten one end of a long strap around the other fore-leg, just above
the hoof. Place the other end under the surcingle so as to keep the strap
in the right direction; take a short hold of it with your right hand;
stand on the left side of the horse; grasp the bit in your left hand;
pull steadily on the strap with your right; bear against his shoulder
till you cause him to move. As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling
will raise the other foot, and he will have to come on his knees.
“Keep the strap tight in your hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg
if he rises up. Hold him in this position, and turn his head towards you;
bear against his side with your shoulder, not hard, but with a steady
equal pressure, and in about ten minutes he will be down. As soon as he
lies down he will be completely conquered, and you can handle him at your
pleasure.
“Take off the straps and straighten out his legs; rub him lightly about
the face and neck with your hand the way the hair lies; handle all his
legs, and after he has lain ten or twenty minutes let him get up again.
After resting him a short time make him lie down and get up as before.
Repeat the operation three or four times, which will be sufficient for
one lesson.
“Give him two lessons a-day: and when you have given him four lessons he
will lie down by taking hold of one foot. As soon as he is well broken to
lie down in this way, tap him on the opposite leg with a stick when you
take hold of his foot, and in a few days he will lie down from the mere
motion of the stick.”
For the purpose of handling horses more easily _without casting them_,
when slight operations have to be performed, a twitch is used, made by
7 or 8 inches of cord formed into a noose, which is attached to about
2 feet of a strong stick. The noose is placed on the upper lip of the
horse, and by turning the stick round and round, it is tightened. The
pain thus occasioned to the animal subdues him to bear almost anything,
and he can thus be subjected to minor operations while standing, but
it is also as well to place a cloth over his eyes to prevent his being
too well informed of what is going on,—a precaution which may be used
with advantage under various other circumstances, such as measuring the
height, when the sight of the size-measure as placed against his shoulder
might alarm him;—in fact, upon any occasion when it maybe desirable that
a horse should not be aware of what is passing around him; for instance,
if he is unwilling to go on board ship or into a horse-van.
TO GIVE A BALL.
Turn the animal round in the stall so as to have his head to the light,
making the least possible fuss or noise.
Stand on a stool on the off side, and, gently putting your hand in the
mouth, draw the tongue a little out; place the fingers of the left hand
over it, and keep it firmly in this position by pressure _against the
jaw_—not holding the tongue by itself, as a restless horse, by suddenly
drawing back or sideways while his tongue is tightly held, may seriously
injure himself.
The ball, having been oiled to cause it to pass easily, is to be taken
between the tips of the fingers of the right hand, and then, making the
hand as small as possible, pass the ball up the mouth by the roof to
avoid injury from the teeth. Directly the ball is landed well up on the
root of the tongue, take away that hand, and as soon as it is out of the
mouth, let the left hand release the tongue, which, in the act of being
drawn to its proper place, will help the ball down.
An assistant standing at the near side may be useful to hand the ball to
the operator, and to _gently_ keep the jaws open while the ball is being
given.
Have a warm drink ready to give immediately after the ball is taken.
It may be remarked that in racing stables, where such things are
generally well done, young and small boys will, quite alone, coolly
take spirited, and often vicious animals, and in the most gentle manner
administer the ball, unsuspected by the beast himself, who is hardly made
aware of the operation he is undergoing.
_To give a Drench._—Turn the animal round in his stall as in
administering a ball. Use a cow’s horn, the wide end having been closed
up by a tinman.
Pour in the liquid at the narrow end, the mouth of which should be an
inch in diameter.
The operator, standing on the off side, should have an assistant; both
should be tall, or make themselves so by standing on _firm_ stools or a
form.
The assistant must raise the horse’s head till his mouth is above the
level of his forehead, and keep it in that elevated position _steadily_
while the drench is administered—such position being necessary to
facilitate the passage of the liquid down the throat by its own gravity,
the tongue not being here an available agent, as with the ball.
The operator, taking the wide end of the horn in his right hand, can
steady and assist himself by holding the upper jaw with his left, and,
leaving the tongue at liberty, will discharge the drench from the horn
_below_ the root of the tongue if possible.
A proper drenching-horn should be always kept at hand, and be well
cleaned after use.
A glass bottle should never on any account be substituted for the proper
instrument.
PURGING.
Whenever an animal accustomed to high feeding and hard work is from any
cause laid by, it is most desirable (in pursuance of the golden rule that
prevention is better than cure) to take such opportunity to relax the
hitherto tightly-strung bow, by administering a mild purge.
The object of this precaution is, that the absorbents, having been
accustomed to a perpetual call as the result of perspiration induced
by work, are liable, when the beast is left at rest for several days,
and this call is thus discontinued, to take on unhealthy action, and
engender diseases, the most fatal of which is that scourge “Farcy.”
How many a fine horse, to all appearance in the best condition, have I
seen stricken with this fell malady, from no other accountable cause
than that which it is hereby proposed to guard against; besides, every
one knows that any animal kept at rest and fed up is more predisposed to
all kinds of inflammatory attacks, and when thus visited the system more
readily succumbs.
More than this, every practical man is aware that an occasional aloetic
purge improves the health, condition, and vigour of a horse.
It seems as if the aloes acted as a powerful tonic and renovator as well
as purge.
What trainer will think of putting a lusty or ill-conditioned animal into
“fettle” without employing this purge as a partial means?
It is very dangerous to give a purging medicine to a horse without first
preparing the bowels by relaxing them moderately with bran mashes.
This is best done by giving about three or four sloppy mashes, three in
the course of the day preceding the administration of the purge (reducing
the quantity of hay to one-third the usual amount), and one the first
thing next morning, no water or hay being given beforehand that day;
about two or three hours after the mash, administer the purge, giving
just before and after it as much warm water as the beast will drink.
No hay should be allowed this day or night, but as many sloppy mashes as
will be accepted should be given.
Give two hours’ brisk walking exercise in clothes about six or eight
hours after the administration of the purge, and next morning, after a
mash and watering (always with warm water), two more hours of the same
exercise in clothes; but be careful _not_ to sweat the horse.—_See_ page
155.
If the evacuations be fully free, less exercise is necessary; otherwise,
in a couple of hours repeat the walking at a brisk pace. When the desired
effect of the medicine has been satisfactorily produced, hay and corn may
be _gradually_ resorted to.
While an animal is under the operation of purgative medicine the water
and mashes should be warmed, and the body well protected from cold by
clothing and the exclusion of draughts.
The ordinary purge, consisting of Barbadoes aloes 4 drachms, extract
gentian 2 drachms, is mixed into a mass by any chemist. With some
delicate horses, subject to looseness, this purge may be too strong, and
should be reduced by a drachm of aloes and half a drachm of gentian.
On the contrary, with large horses of a full habit, 5 drachms of
Barbadoes aloes, or even more, may be necessary, with 2 drachms of
gentian. In all cases where there is reason to suppose that the mucous
surfaces of the alimentary canal may be in a state of irritation, it is
much safer to give linseed-oil, say a pint at a time, to which may be
added, if speedy purging be essential, twenty drops of croton oil.
The use of old dry hay will be found the most simple and ready primary
resource to stop purging and steady the action of the bowels, and a very
little bruised oats may also be given in such cases.
Should the purge appear to gripe, copious clysters of warm water will
afford relief.
THE PULSE
is easily found by placing the two forefingers under the middle of the
horse’s jowl or cheek-bone. The novice can feel about here till he
discovers pulsation, and having once made himself acquainted with its
seat, he will be the better able to judge of a horse when apparently out
of sorts.
Inside the forearm, and in other spots, the pulse is equally superficial,
but under the edge of the cheek-bone is the most convenient place to find
it, or at the temple.
A horse’s pulse in health beats from about 32 to 38 a minute—the smaller
the animal the faster the circulation will be.
In brain affections the pulse is slower than natural, it is quickest
in inflammation of the serous and fibrous membranes—much slower in the
mucous ones.
DISEASES OF THE HEAD AND RESPIRATORY ORGANS.
_Glanders._—As there is really no cure for this horrible disease, I
will not attempt any dissertation upon it, but, merely referring to the
remarks upon nasal gleet, page 116, advise all, _whenever they have
the least suspicion about the latter_, to consult a veterinary surgeon
immediately.
The only preventive against the disease is to keep and work your horses
in a reasonable manner, give them plenty of pure air at all times, and to
guard them as carefully as possible from contagion.
_Sore Eyes_ should be treated mildly by stuping with tepid water, and the
use of laxatives, as mashes, green food, or a mild purge, according to
the severity of the case. Keep in darkness. If the affection is acute,
consult a professional veterinary surgeon.
_Common Cold and Influenza._—It should be remembered that cold air
seldom gives cold, but rather its action upon the exhalent vessels of
the skin when they are under the process of sweat, and when the exercise
that produced the latter has ceased. The superficial action of a low
temperature then proves an astringent, clogging the small exhalent and
exuding vessels, and by the derangement of the whole animal system,
immediately affects the respiratory organs, producing more or less fever.
When disease is thus contracted, it is self-evident that the best way to
meet it is by forcing these small vessels into exudation (or sweat) as
rapidly as possible, which may readily be done by exercise and clothing
upon the very first suspicion that a chill has been taken, and _before
the animal is positively affected_. Once, however, that the debility or
feverish symptoms incidental to the disease are manifesting themselves,
active but entirely different measures must be resorted to.
The premonitory symptoms of cold, and that scourge of the stud,
influenza, are, refusal of corn, staring coat, dull eyes, at first a thin
and soon a purulent discharge from one or both nostrils, with more or
less cough; pulse wired, sometimes very weak, but if highly inflammatory
symptoms be present, thin and rapid.
Under these circumstances, if a professional veterinary surgeon is
procurable, the case should be referred to him; but rather than suffer
an ordinary farrier to deal with the animal, I will take the liberty in
this, as in other cases, to offer simple remedies that can do no harm,
and have in my own experience been beneficial.
Bleeding is admissible only in extreme cases, and under professional
advice, at the commencement of an inflammatory attack, in affections
of the brain, or serous and fibrous membranes—_not in mucous ones_. In
cases, however, of sudden pulmonary congestion, or apoplexy of the lungs,
general depletion is indicated. Blood-letting should _never_ be had
recourse to in _distemper_ or _influenza_,[28] neither should purging
be thought of in such cases, as it lowers the system, which, on the
contrary, requires all the sustaining power possible.
Give at once in the most inviting small mash of bran, or in the form of a
ball,—
2 drachms of nitre;
giving little or no hay, and nothing but warm mashes of bran or linseed,
if they will be taken. If the symptoms are urgent, give in a ball,—
3 drachms of nitre, with
1 drachm of camphor.
Also _well hand-rub_, with a liniment composed of equal parts spirits
of turpentine and oil mixed, all under the windpipe, the gullet, within
three inches of the ear, by the parotid glands, and inside the jowls. Use
the liniment twice the first day if the symptoms are severe, and once
each day subsequently—abating its use according to the disappearance of
the disease.
The horse should be placed if possible in a loose-box, and being kept
warm with plenty of sheets, hoods, and bandages, the door and window of
his stable should be thrown open during a considerable portion of the
warmer part of the day, to give him _plenty of fresh pure air_.
The head should be kept as pendant as possible, in order to induce
the throwing of the nasal discharge, which will be further assisted
by steaming the nostrils, using a very large nose-bag (if possible of
haircloth), half-filled with common yellow deal sawdust, having an ounce
of spirits of turpentine well mixed through it; or better, hot bran
mashes, of which the poor beast may be tempted to pick a little when
first applied.
Either application must be kept at a high temperature by the frequent
addition of hot water.
The nose-bag must be used several times a day—kept on for twenty minutes
at a time, and never suffered to remain on the animal till its contents
(which should of course be frequently changed) become cold or offensive.
Or the nostrils may be steamed as well, in a more simple way, thus:—Fill
a bucket full of hay, stamp it down with the foot, pour _boiling_ water
upon it, renew the boiling water every ten minutes. Let a man hold the
horse’s head in the bucket over the steam for about half an hour at a
time, three or four times a day.
As recovery progresses, _gradually_ resume ordinary feeding—remembering
that in this, as in all cases of illness where the constitution has been
debilitated, it has to be carefully rebuilt by food and suitable exercise
to fit the animal for work. It should be borne in mind that respiratory
diseases appear to be _very contagious_, for which reason, if for no
other, the patient on the first outbreak of distemper should be removed
away from the rest of the stud to a loose-box, if practicable; the
stall he leaves should be cleansed, and all his utensils kept _rigidly
separate_.
White-wash and chloride of lime are useful and simple as disinfectants.
This disease is more easily prevented than cured, and horse-owners do
well to avoid leaving an animal when heated, or after exercise, standing
unclothed in the cold or in a chilly draught. Also be careful about
transferring a horse suddenly from total exposure at grass, or from a
healthy airy stable to an ill-ventilated and crowded one.
Though influenza or distemper are often considered to be epidemic,
contagion should be, as before observed, most carefully guarded against.
Some professional men hold these two designations to represent distinct
diseases. In influenza the animal becomes speedily attenuated, and the
whole system appears disordered and debilitated, occasionally with
lameness, as if from fever of the feet.
There is generally one mark which may be permitted to be peculiar as
distinguishing some forms of influenza, particularly in certain seasons
during its prevalence, which is that of the mucous surfaces assuming a
yellow colour all over the body, and the white of the eye being also
tinged with that hue.
When influenza assumes a serious character, the professional man must
be left to deal with it; but pending the arrival of such assistance,
the treatment here recommended can do no harm, the primary seat of the
disease being that of the respiratory organ.
_Laryngitis, Bronchitis, Pleurisy._—I will not attempt to enter into
descriptions or prescribe separate modes of treatment for these and other
diseases of the respiratory organs, such delicate distinctions belonging
exclusively to the professional man; but while awaiting his advice, the
treatment recommended for common cold and influenza can do no harm in any
attacks of the upper air-passages; and when the lungs or cavity of the
chest appear to be affected, that advised as follows for inflammation of
the lungs is equally harmless:—
_Inflammation of the Lungs_ or _Pneumonia_ is indicated by great
prostration and high fever, heaving of the flanks (an evidence of great
internal anguish); the legs are spread out to their fullest extent, as
if to prop up the body and prevent it from falling; the breathing is
difficult, and respiration quick; extremities cold; pulse quick and
hard, like wire to the touch; a look of pain and wretchedness marks the
countenance.[29]
Such symptoms can be safely treated by a professional man only; but if
his services cannot possibly be procured, rub in a powerful mustard
poultice over the lungs, the seat of which I cannot better describe
to the uninitiated than as situated beneath that portion of a horse’s
surface which would be covered by a saddle if placed on his belly
directly underneath the situation it would have occupied on his back,
the pommel being close to the fore legs, omitting to blister the portion
of the belly which would be covered by the cantel of the saddle when
reversed, but continuing the blister between the fore legs to the front
of the chest.
The hair need not be clipped off before the application of this poultice.
Give every six hours, till the arrival of the veterinary surgeon, from 30
to 40 grains of ordinary grey powder mixed and administered in the form
of a ball.[30] Or, in place of grey powder, give Fleming’s tincture of
aconite, eight drops every hour in half a pint of cold water, until the
arrival of a veterinary surgeon.
Let the animal have an _additional quantity_ of the purest air, with an
increased supply of clothing, and in cold weather the temperature should
be slightly moderated. The symptoms of recovery are denoted by gradual
cessation of heaving at the flanks; the extremities getting warmer; the
pulse less quick—softer to feel; and the animal appearing more lively.
His strength must be kept up after the first day or two by drenches of
gruel, till mashes will be accepted.
_Cough_, as before observed, generally accompanies influenza, distemper,
and common cold, but there are instances where cough may be present with
little or no fever or other derangement, in which case change of food
from corn to bran or linseed mashes, with a limited allowance of wetted
hay or chaff, may be sufficient to cure.
As a rule, grooms should understand that when coughing is heard, they
are to give bran or linseed mashes till further orders; nor should an
animal suffering from cough be expected to do any but very light work or
exercise (every care being taken to avoid his being chilled), bran mashes
not affording sufficient sustenance to do heavy work upon.
No person or owner should be satisfied with the state of his horses’
health while they cough. Linseed mashes daily (page 23) will be found
excellent to ease and cure cough, also carrots and green food; but when
the cough is accompanied by fever, or other symptoms of ailment, treat
as for influenza, distemper, cold, or sore throat, as the indications of
derangement may direct you.
_Nasal Gleet_ may possibly be occasioned by protracted irritation of
diseased molar teeth; but if persistent, especially of a thin, ichorous,
glairy, or size-like character, and confined to one nostril, generally
the left, the glands under the jaw being swollen and tender, the
Schneiderian membrane or mucous lining of the nose having a dull, pale,
or leaden hue, it should be looked on with suspicion, particularly if
confined to one nostril, and more so if the discharge adhere round the
rim of it. Cough is seldom present with glanders.
In such cases consult a veterinary surgeon without a moment’s delay, and
be careful to prevent any part of your own body, or that of any other
person, coming in contact with such a discharge. It is very probably
incipient glanders of the most insidious and dangerous character.
To more clearly distinguish the dangerous from the harmless gleet, it may
be remarked that when the discharge is thick and purulent, yellow, and in
full flow, and without a disposition to adhere to the nostril, though the
most alarming in appearance, it is least to be apprehended, proceeding
naturally from a heavy cold in the head, which, however, should of
course meet with immediate attention.—(_See_ “Cold, Influenza,” page
110.) For the prevention of nasal gleet, observe the same precautions as
those recommended against cold, &c. (page 109), and keep your horses as
much as possible to themselves.
In travelling, horses run great risks, and, of course, such diseases are
less likely to be contracted in first-class hostelries than in inferior
and hack stabling.
_Poll-Evil_ is generally occasioned by a bruise on the head, behind
the ears, near the neck, by pressure of the head-stall, &c. (_see_
“Haltering,” page 16), when, if great care be not exercised to cure
the sore promptly, sinuses or cavities will form, eating away into the
more important parts of the adjacent structure. Here, also, unless an
immediate cure be effected by the means directed for the treatment of
sores (_see_ “Water-dressing,” page 160, and “Zinc Lotion,” page 158),
accompanied with the removal of the head-stall or any aggravating
pressure, the veterinary surgeon ought to be consulted at once.
Avoiding the causes will be the best preventive of this disease.
_Shivering Fits_ in general precede or are the commencement of a feverish
attack; therefore, in such cases, no heating food must be allowed.
Substitute hot mashes, increase the clothing, and administer a febrifuge,
as nitre, 2 drachms, repeated in two hours. Or, if nitre in the mash will
not be accepted, give two ounces of sweet spirits of nitre in half a pint
of cold water.
_Shivers_ in the stable, proceeding from nervous sensibility, are
frequently the result of recent excitement, caused by a band, an organ,
or other unusual noise, or even by the sudden entrance of the beast’s own
attendant, the bounding of a cat, &c.
_Strangles_ generally attacks young horses about the age of maturity, or
when first stabled. Debility gradually possesses them; the throat, and
particularly the parotid glands under the ears, are sore and swelled,
tending to distinguish this disease from ordinary cold and influenza;
a discharge from the nose is also present. The sooner the suppurative
process can be induced in the throat the better.
For this purpose rub in turpentine and oil (one part turpentine to two
parts oil) once or twice a-day, which, when the skin becomes tender, must
be carefully done with a sponge.
When the suppuration is ripe, a professional man should let it out with a
knife, and recovery speedily ensues.
As great debility is attendant on this disease, the system should be kept
up by bruised and scalded corn, and the appetite tempted in every way by
green meats, minced carrots, &c., if requisite. Plenty of air is also
essential.
It ought to be superfluous to remark that under such circumstances
neither bleeding, purging, nor reducing means of any kind should be
adopted, the bowels being merely kept open by bran and occasional linseed
mashes, which will assist the mucous surfaces. The chill to be taken off
the drink.
_Soreness of the Throat_ frequently accompanies distemper or cold, and is
indicated by want of appetite, constant endeavour to swallow the saliva,
_difficulty in imbibing liquids_, which, instead of going down the
throat, appear to be returned through the nostrils, noisy gulping, &c.
Rub the throat at once with a mixture of equal parts turpentine and oil,
and keep up the irritation on the skin.
Administer 2 drachms of nitre once or twice the first twenty-four hours,
the animal being, of course, laid by from all work, and placed in a
loose-box; let him be fed on bran and linseed mashes, and given green
food, carrots, and anything that will tempt his appetite.
Avoid purging, bleeding, or anything that will lower the system—a rule to
be most particularly observed in all diseases of the respiratory organs,
unless severe inflammation be present, when a professional man only can
judge to what extent the lowering process may be necessary.
_Broken Wind_ is caused by a large number of the air-cells of the lungs
becoming fused, as it were, into one large air-cell, thus diminishing the
aërating surface, and rendering the lungs weaker. It is indicated by a
sudden inspiration and a long, almost double, expiration; the flanks and
abdomen are observed to suddenly fall down, instead of being gradually
expanded.
Broken wind is, in fact, emphysema of the lung, and there is said to be
no absolute cure for it; but it may be alleviated by restricting the
animal in hay and water, and giving the latter only in small quantities,
not more than half-a-pint at a time, and moistening all food.
Take care he does not eat his bed, which he will make every effort to do.
He should have no straw about him in the day, and be muzzled at night.
_Lampas_ does not belong properly to these diseases, indicating some
derangement in the alimentary canal, but is here mentioned to guard
against a brutal practice commonly resorted to by farriers as a cure for
the disorder.
The groom complains that his charge is “off his feed,” and fancies that
the palate is swollen more than usual—the fact being that he never
examined it at any other time; and the farrier proceeds to cure the
rejection of food by searing the poor beast’s mouth with a red-hot iron,
or scarifying it with a knife. The reasonable treatment of an ailment
proceeding from heat or disorder of the stomach will be to withhold all
heating food, at all events to a great extent, giving occasional mashes,
also tonics and alteratives, the latter to those of full habit, the
former in cases of evident debility.
DISEASES OF THE DIGESTIVE AND URINARY ORGANS.
_Diarrhœa_ and _Dysentery_.—The first (diarrhœa, or mere looseness) is,
in the horse, seldom more than a temporary debility. In many cases it is
an effort of nature to relieve herself, and will probably effect its own
cure.
The symptoms require no definition, except that it may be remarked
that they are almost invariably unaccompanied by pain or any other
inconvenience. Rest, and the use of more astringent food, and leaving a
piece of chalk in the manger (which, with horses subject to diarrhœa,
should never be absent), will in all probability arrest the attack, which
may, to a certain extent, proceed from a predisposition to acidity.
Animals disposed to this disease should be fed on a drier description of
food.
_Dysentery_ is, on the contrary, a highly dangerous illness, accompanied
with pain.
It mostly commences with excessive purgation, the evacuations being mere
foul water in appearance, and stinking. The beast will drink greedily;
the pulse is weak; great anguish of body perceptible, the perspiration
breaking out in patches.
On the first appearance of such dangerous symptoms, procure the
assistance of a professional man; but in the interval the following
drench may be given:—
Laudanum, 1 oz. } Mix.
Powdered chalk, ½ oz. }
or,
Catechu, powdered, 1 drachm. } Mix.
Chalk, ½ oz. }
or,
Sulphuric ether and laudanum, of each one ounce.
Also injections of cold linseed-tea. The dose may be repeated in three
or four hours, if medical assistance does not arrive. As great care
is necessary in the diet, as well as general treatment, after partial
recovery, everything should be done under professional advice.
An attack of dysentery is very likely to be caused by the existence of
some acrid matter in the intestines, or by an overdose, or too constant
use, of aloes.
As with diarrhœa, horses predisposed to dysentery ought always to have a
lump of chalk in the manger, and constant or over-doses of aloes should
be avoided.
COLIC AND GRIPES.
As these diseases are sudden, and require prompt treatment, it is well to
have some idea of the kind of remedy to be employed, pending the arrival
of the veterinary surgeon. Some animals are peculiarly subject to them,
from a susceptible state of the alimentary canal. Cold water, taken on an
empty stomach, or when a beast is heated, will cause the malady.
The symptoms are distress, evinced by pawing, lifting of the fore and
hind feet towards the stomach, the head being turned towards the sides,
with a look of anguish; a cold sweat will sometimes bedew the body. A
desire to lie down may be exhibited, and when on the ground the animal
rolls about in evident agony. The upper lip is strained upwards from the
teeth, almost closing the nostrils, and the pulse indicates derangement
of the system.
When the true character of the ailment has been ascertained, it is well
to inquire as to the character of the evacuations. If they are in a lax
state, and a cause for the same can be discovered, of course discontinue
it, and use astringent clysters for the bowels (page 159). If there
be reason to apprehend that some offending matter is retained in the
alimentary canal, use emollient laxatives and clysters (pages 158 and
159). But if anything like costiveness is present, and other remedies
fail, recourse must be had to that of “back-raking,” a process which
need not be here explained, being well known to every experienced groom,
any one of whom may safely be intrusted with the operation, the only
necessary precaution being to have rather a small hand used, and that
_well_ lubricated with lard or oil. Let all the fæcal matter that can be
reached be carefully extracted. Afterwards a warm enema, composed of one
pint of turpentine mixed in two quarts of hot soap-suds, and a soothing
drench of
1 oz. sulphuric ether,
1 oz. laudanum,
1 pint oil,
will be found efficacious.
In the early stages, “gripes,” as they are called, may be cured by simply
“back-raking,” followed by a drench of a bottle of ale, warmed and mixed
with one ounce of powdered ginger, and a brisk trot in heavy clothing.
Under highly inflammatory symptoms, the professional man attending will
probably bleed.
To guard against colic, avoid giving cold water when the beast is heated,
or on a fasting stomach. With horses subject to gripes the water should
always be given with the chill off, if possible, or just previous to a
good grooming or other gentle exercise tending to circulate internal
warmth. Never allow any animal the opportunity of gorging himself with
any kind of food after the stomach has been weakened by extra-severe work
and long fasting.
For costiveness only give soft bran or linseed mashes, or green feeding;
and see treatment for excessive or painful costiveness, page 122.
DIABETES,
or profuse staling, is unfortunately a common disease, and is generally
attributed to something wrong in the water, but bad provender may
occasion it.
Thirst is generally very great.
Give catechu, 2 drachms at a time, two or three times daily, in mashes.
Change the food or water, whichever on examination seems most
objectionable. Give no hay or grass, but plenty of linseed tea to drink;
give _good_ bruised or scalded oats, with a small quantity of warm bran
mixed in each feed, and leave a lump of chalk in manger: or administer
diluted phosphoric acid, one ounce to one pint lukewarm water, twice
daily, till the symptoms abate, then gradually reduce the dose.[31]
A horse once found to be subject to this disease should be very carefully
fed and watered.
WORMS
are indicated by a state of the coat called “hide-bound” and “staring,”
with loss of condition and indisposition to work; by a slimy mucus
covering the dung-balls; also occasionally by the adherence of the
parasites round the anus, and thin evacuation in the fæces.
They cling so pertinaceously to the internals, that they will eat through
the coat of the stomach, and are never likely to be removed by a single
dose of any medicine. Spirit of turpentine is highly recommended as a
cure, but if given it must be diluted largely—one part turpentine to four
parts oil.
Practical experience of various remedies for worms justifies me in
recommending one to two grains of arsenic and twenty grains of kamela
twice daily (each dose mixed in a handful of wet bran, and given with
oats or other feeding) for eighteen days, and a purge the nineteenth
morning.
The horse may get _moderate_ work during the administration of the
_powders_.
Common salt is also considered a good remedy: about a tablespoonful daily
mixed with the food.
To guard against these pests, avoid the use of Egyptian beans; but
as “bots” are mostly taken in at grass by the animal licking off and
swallowing their larvæ laid in the hair of the legs, it is almost
impossible to exclude them. In a few cases they are bred in the internals
without any accountable cause, and against this no precaution can avail.
_Liver Diseases_, or the farriers’ “Yellows,” so called from the fact
that such cases are marked by the eyelids, linings of the nose, and lips
when turned up, being found to be tinged more or less with yellow.
Here mercury must be administered, and aided by subsequent purging, as is
necessary with the human subject.
Thus, give half a drachm to a drachm of calomel mixed in a little flour,
and put in a mash of bran one evening, and next morning follow it up with
the aloes purge-ball (page 108).
If the “yellows” be very marked, with other derangement of the system,
give for two days one drachm of calomel daily in doses of half a drachm
each, mixed in mashes as described above; and after two drachms have been
taken in this way, administer on the third morning the aloetic purge.
_Inflammation of the Kidneys and Bladder._—With regard to internal
inflammation arising from various causes, the symptoms of distress
bear a general resemblance to each other: legs spread out, extremities
cold, breathing accelerated, and a look of pain pervading the animal’s
whole appearance, except that in diseases of the urinary organs there
is generally a straddling gait; and on observance of the genitals, some
marked action in this region on the part of the beast will be discovered.
Such attacks can only be properly treated by a professional man,
therefore lose no time in procuring his services; but, in the meanwhile,
I shall observe that inflammation of the kidneys is, sad to say, too
common to admit of its being passed by without offering some caution and
advice regarding it, more for the purpose of prevention than cure.
Disease of the kidneys is generally brought on by the _misuse_ by grooms
of their favourite diuretics; a dose of nitre to “fine his legs,” or
“bloom his coat,” or for any other purpose to save themselves trouble,
is the groom’s specific for the poor creatures under their care; but
so injurious are diuretics that masters ought to make their secret
administration, as commonly practised by the class referred to, a case of
instant dismissal.
The kidneys of the horse are peculiarly susceptible of action; so much
so, that purges frequently, in place of acting as intended, will take
effect on them.
It should, besides, be borne in mind that while the kidneys are in
artificial action and secreting an extra quantity of urine which is being
passed away, the creature should have the same opportunity of rest, and
as much consideration given him, as if he were in a state of purgation.
The secretion is blood in its changed form, and is a serious call on the
system. All this does not enter into the head of an ignorant groom, who,
on the contrary, will work or treat the poor suffering creature as if he
was in his best vigour.
Inflammation of the kidneys is marked by an appearance of general
distress—hind legs straddled, the backbone hogged, urine small in
quantity, tenderness over the loins when pressed.
If a practitioner be not procurable, immediately place warm mustard
poultices over the loins, and cover them with sheepskins.
Give half a drachm extract of belladonna with half an ounce laudanum in
a pint of linseed tea every four hours, and inject constantly with warm
linseed tea.
_Inflammation of the Bladder_ presents very similar symptoms to that of
the kidneys, only that the bladder being farther away from the backbone,
instead of the latter being hogged, it is rather depressed. In this
case, as in inflammation of the kidneys, call in the veterinary surgeon;
meanwhile give the drink recommended for the kidneys, and though the
surgeon’s decision is desirable with regard to mustard blistering, the
use of this counter-irritant should not be too long delayed; therefore,
in the event of his non-arrival within an hour or so, apply mustard
blister to the stomach far back (between the flanks), as being nearest
the seat of this disease.
DISEASES OF THE FEET AND LEGS.
Once more the old proverb that “prevention is better than cure” deserves
to be dwelt upon, for very many diseases under this head can be
prevented, and very few can ever be cured.
Generally speaking, the fore feet and hocks of a horse are the most
susceptible of disease induced by wear and tear—the fore feet, because
the greater part of the weight of the animal is borne upon them; and the
hocks behind, because they are the propelling power.
It is remarkable in cases of lameness, that when the disease is seated in
the feet, the lameness becomes temporarily aggravated on work; whereas
if it proceed from disease in the legs, it becomes apparently less after
the limbs have been worked a while. With regard to animals keeping their
condition while labouring under lameness, experience has taught me that
horses lame in the fore feet will, if able to work at all, continue to
do so without apparently losing condition from the fret of lameness; but
when the hind legs are the seat of disease, the condition evaporates very
rapidly. This, I imagine, is because an animal lame in the fore feet will
lie down and take more rest than when sound; whereas if lame behind, he
will not take sufficient rest, as rising and lying down cause him pain;
hence he continually stands, and, of course, aggravates the disease.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.—Section of Foot.]
The foot is thus sectionised and described by Delaware P. Elaine, Esq.:—
“On examining a perpendicular section of the foot and pasterns, there
appear the coffin-bone (_a_), the navicular or nut bone (_b_), the
coronary or little pastern bone (_c_), the large pastern bone (_d_), the
back sinew or great flexor tendon of the foot (_e_), the same tendon
sliding over the navicular bone (_f_), its termination or insertion into
the bottom of the coffin-bone (_g_), the elastic matter of the sensible
frog (_h_), the insensible or horny frog (_i_), the horny sole (_k_),
which includes the parts of the sensible foot; the outer wall of the hoof
(_l_), the elastic processes (_m_), the attachment of the extensor tendon
to the coffin-bone (_n_), and its attachment to the coronary bone (_o_),
which completes the section.
“The coffin-bone (_a_) adapts itself to the figure of the hoof, or rather
is adapted by nature to this eligible form. The eminence in its front
receives the insertion of the tendon of the great extensor muscle of the
foot. This important muscle has its upper attachment to the humerus or
arm-bone, where it is principally fleshy; but as it passes downwards it
becomes tendinous, expanding over every joint, both to prevent friction
and to embrace and give firm attachment to each bone with its opposed
bone, by which a firm connection of the various parts is maintained, and
a simultaneous movement of the whole limb is effected. In the hinder limb
this extensor tendon and its two less or tendinous adjuncts arise from
the tibia, and in part from the femur, but in their origin are fleshy.
“In the sides of the coffin-bone are attached lateral cartilages, and
around its surface are marks of the attachment of the laminated substance.
“The coronary, or small pastern bone (_c_), is seen to rest on the
coffin-bone (_a_), with which it articulates by its lower end; its
posterior part also may be seen to be closely articulated both with the
coffin and with the navicular or nut bones (_f_), whose attachments to
them are effected by ligaments of great power and some elasticity. Nor is
it possible to view this horny box and its contents without being struck
with the admirable display of mechanism and contrivance which meets our
eye. We are apt to say, ‘as strong as a horse,’ and some of us use horses
as though they were made of imperishable stuff; but surely, when we well
consider the subject, we shall see both the necessity and the morality of
using them with discretion.”
This description of the structure of the foot will probably better enable
the uninitiated to understand the seat and nature of various ailments of
that part of the horse which are here touched upon.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
Blaine further describes the construction of the hoof thus:—
“The hoof itself is conical, or rather, as Clark observes, slightly
truncated, and is a secretion as well from the vascular parts of the foot
as from the skin, as our nails are formed from the portion of skin called
quick. The structure of the hoof is firm and fibrous. Externally it is
plane and convex, but internally concave and laminated. The quarters
are the lateral parts. As the horn approaches the heels it becomes soft
and is reflected inwards. The heels are parted by the horny frog (_b_,
fig. 3); and without, the frog on each side the hoof inflects its fibres
to form the bars which are seen on the under surface (_c_, fig. 4). In
a healthy foot, fig. 4, the heels are round, wide, and smooth (_a_,
_a_), the frog fully expanded, the bars or binders distinct (_c_, _c_),
no corns in the usual angle (_d_), the sole broad and concave (_d_).
In a diseased foot, fig. 3, the heels are high, and drawn together
by contraction (_a_, _a_), the frog narrow, and filled with fissures
from contraction and thrush (_b_), corn frequently present (_d_), the
sole greatly shortened in its transverse diameter, which is morbidly
counterbalanced by the increased heights in the truncated form (_c_).
When the hoof is removed, the sensible or fleshy sole (_h_, section of
foot), above which it immediately lies, presents itself, covering the
whole of the horny sole, except so much as is taken up by the sensible
frog (_h_). This part is exquisitely sensible and vascular, and thus
we learn why injuries to it from puncture produce such serious effect,
and why very slight pressure from contraction of the hoof gives so much
pain. The sensible frog and the sensible sole form the insensible frog
and sole; but when from pressure, too much moisture, or other causes,
the sensible frog, instead of forming horn, secretes pus or matter as in
thrush, the structure of the whole becomes injured, and the frog, thus
losing its support, gradually wastes and decays. It is therefore evident
that no thrush can be entirely harmless, as is erroneously supposed.
“Above the sensible frog is the great flexor tendon, or back sinew,
inserting itself into the vaulted arch of the coffin (_a_, section of
foot). This important tendon, arising from its parent muscle above the
knee, whose origin is taken from the humerus and ulna, in its passage
unites with an assistant flexor, but which latter is principally
distributed to the pastern bones, while the perforans, so called because
it is perforated by the assistant flexor tendon, is inserted into _the
vault_ of the coffin; in the posterior extremities the attachments of
these two leading flexors and a smaller _lateral_ one are from the femur
and tibia.
“_The Sensible Laminæ._—Around the surface of the coffin-bone, it has
been noticed that there are linear indentations to which about five
hundred fibro-cartilaginous leaves are attached. Each of these is
received between two of the horny lamellæ, which line the interior of the
horny hoof; and when it is considered what a vast surface of attachment
is formed by these means, the strength of the union will not be wondered
at. No common violence can separate these parts, and their use as a
spring (for they are extensile) to support the action of an animal at
once weighty, strong, and extremely agile, must be apparent.
“The vessels and nerves of the foot are derived from the metacarpal
arteries, veins, and nerves, which pass behind the pastern, when the
main trunks divide to proceed to each side of the foot, and are ramified
from thence throughout. It is a division of the metacarpal nerve on each
side of the lesser pastern, or on each side of the larger, as occasion
suits, which forms the nerve operation now in vogue as a remedy (?) for
navicular disease.”
_Laminitis_, or _Fever of the Feet_, although generally the result of too
long a journey, or any exercise where excessive and continuous concussion
has been occasioned to the feet, frequently arises from other causes. It
is often what is termed secondary, as one of the sequelæ of inflammatory
diseases of a more constitutional character.—(_See_ “Metastasis,” page
155.) The laminæ are plates (technically, semi-cartilaginous leaves
received between the horny lamellæ which line the interior of the hoof)
resting on the inside of the horny hoof, and giving an elastic support,
whereby the whole weight of the horse’s structure is thrown against the
wall of the hoof and kept off the side. It is not surprising, therefore,
that these causes should produce derangement here.
As laminitis generally attacks the fore feet, the poor beast in his
anguish endeavours to throw his weight off them by resting on his hind
quarters, which are tucked under him, with the fore legs and feet pushed
out before him merely to keep him from falling; he can barely hobble if
he attempts to move. If the fever be only slight and in one foot, he will
point it, while extreme lameness and unnatural heat in the foot mark the
disease. The shoe should (in this as in all cases of foot-lameness) be
instantly removed by a smith brought to the stable instead of giving the
poor creature the pain of limping to the forge.
The foot should be put into cold water, constantly renewed, and kept in
it all day; at night a bran poultice or water-dressing should be left on
(_see_ “Water-dressing” and “Poultices,” page 160). Also administer a
purge.
In acute cases, bleeding at the toe is sometimes practised by paring
away there till the veins appear. This is a very questionable remedy,
and there is little doubt that the use of the knife only aggravates the
inflammation.
The fact is, that beyond its incipient stage none but the veterinary
surgeon is competent to deal with this disease.
Its prevention is best secured by requiring moderate work only, and at
the proper road-paces—viz., walking and trotting—keeping the feet moist,
wetting them occasionally during a long journey, and _regularly stopping
them directly after each day’s severe work_.—_See_ “Grooming,” page 12.
_Navicular Disease_ is, unfortunately, a very common one with horses; and
when the delicate structure of the foot is considered in connection with
the rough usage the creature gets on hard roads while carrying a heavy
weight on his back, it is only surprising that the feet bear such jarring
at all.
The navicular is the small pulley-bone over which the flexor tendon
passes, and being the most active of any of the foot-bones, is the most
likely to be injured by ill usage (_see_ page 128). The symptoms are
lameness, with more or less pointing of the foot when at rest, and heat
towards the quarters of the lame foot.
Unlike laminitis, the lameness is inconsiderable at first, and increases
as the disease progresses.
Being so deep-seated, it is very difficult to cure. In the incipient
stages the most effectual remedy appears to be the insertion of
frog-setons, requiring the assistance of a veterinary surgeon. In most
instances the case is hopeless, and many a fine horse is sold to limp out
a life of misery, drawing a hack cab, or, with a refinement of cruelty,
is subject to the operation of unnerving the foot, which, by destroying
sensation in that part, enables the animal to travel without apparent
lameness, though the disease continues to progress till part of the foot
has been known to drop off in work. Being a result of work to which all
horses are liable, no mode of prevention can be recommended.
_Lateral Cartilages._—Another ailment of the foot is more common than
is generally supposed, called “Disease of the Lateral Cartilages.” It
requires the skill of an anatomist to decide upon its presence. In fact,
this and navicular disease are both very obscure in their origin and
diagnostics, and a surgeon only can properly deal with them, as well as
with all other diseases that are not very distinctly marked, and in their
early stages not important.
_Thrush._—A disease of the frog: the cleft becomes eaten away, and a foul
matter is secreted. It more frequently attacks the hind than the fore
feet.
By some it is said to be constitutional, but it is much more probably the
result of neglect of the foot in the stable, the hind feet being oftener
affected, from the fact of the urine and fæces coming more immediately
under their tread.
At every shoeing or removing, the frog should be perfectly cleared
of all defective parts by the knife, and where the disease has once
manifested itself the cleft should be kept continually stopped with tar
and tow. A return to a healthy state is likely to be tedious, therefore
continued attention to these directions is necessary. If a severe case,
use a bar-shoe, to avoid the wear and tear of the road, and which
will also help to keep the pledgets of tar and tow in their place. To
prevent thrush, let the litter and bedding be completely removed from
the horse every morning till bedtime at night; let the pavement be kept
scrupulously clean through the day; attend and wash the feet, examine
them frequently, and upon the slightest sign of the disease use the
remedial means.
_Quittor._—This is a disease of the feet, wherein, either from delicacy
of or accident to the sole, the sensible part becomes affected. A
suppurative sinus is formed, eating away till it often comes out at the
coronet. Once it reaches this, the animal, unless of great value, might
as well be destroyed, the restorative process being of a most tedious and
expensive character, requiring continual manipulation by a surgeon.
By careful shoeing (where nails are not driven out of their proper
direction) and a most exact examination of the foot where any extraneous
matter, such as glass, gravel, &c., is suspected of having entered or
damaged it, quittor will most probably be avoided.
_Canker_ seldom attacks gentlemen’s horses, or well-bred ones. It is
literally a change of a portion of the foot into a kind of fungus,
sometimes commencing in the sole, sometimes in the frogs, and is
aggravated by foul litter, bad stabling, and general bad care.
As no dressing or external application will restore the foot without
manipulation, a surgeon only can deal with it.
_Cracked and Greasy Heels._—Animals of languid circulation in the
extremities are more susceptible of such diseases, which are induced and
aggravated by lazy ignorant grooms pursuing their objectionable practice
of wetting the legs, and leaving them to dry themselves.—_See_ page 13.
Symptoms are tumefaction and soreness of the hinder part of the pasterns,
even to fissures emitting matter.
Clip away the hair in the first instance, so as to be able to cleanse the
sore by washing it with warm water and soft soap, drying it perfectly.
Then apply glycerine lotion (page 158).
If the sore seems likely to incapacitate the animal from work,
administer a mild aloetic purge (page 108). Very serious consequences
may result from the indolence of grooms in neglecting this ailment. In
acute cases, the sore, eating into the tendon, produces mortification and
death. I have myself lost a valuable animal from this disease, through
the gross neglect of my grooms in my absence.
Except in the very earliest stages, and in palpably trifling cases, a
veterinary surgeon should be consulted, especially in what is called
“grease,” or matter running from these cracks. The preventive means
are, never to allow water to your horses’ legs above the coronet on any
pretence whatever, and if by accident or work they get wet, to have them
rubbed dry as promptly as possible.
_Shelly Hoofs_ (or splitting open of the external part of the horny
hoof).—The feet of some horses are more subject to this disease than
those of others, from the fibrous structure being more dry with them.
This fibrous structure forming the hoof is found, on microscopic
examination, to resemble a lot of hairs all glued together into a
hardened mass, and where the adhesive matter is of a drier character
than usual, the hoofs are more brittle. With some horses this results in
“shelly hoofs;” they don’t split, but are perpetually breaking away. With
this description of hoofs, tar is the best possible application. Neither
grease nor oil should ever be used—these only aggravate the disease, as
on close observation they will be found to act as powerful astringents,
excluding the healthy action of air and moisture upon the part most in
need of them. Strange to say, tar, from its pungent properties, induces
healthy action in the part, and is peculiarly adapted to promote the
growth of the fibrous structure as well as lubricating it.
_Sand-Cracks_ seldom go diagonally, but are either horizontal or
vertical. I shall endeavour to exemplify the simple principle of this
disease with a simple principle of remedy, dealing with it like a split
in a board on which I desired to put an effectual stopper. In such a
case I should carefully gouge out a small hole at each end of the split,
beyond which hole the fissure would be certain not to pass. With the hoof
the same principle can be carried out by filing an indentation directly
across each end of the crack, only taking care not to file deeper than
the insensible part of the hoof; or the end will be answered by using a
red-hot firing-iron instead of a file, taking the same precaution not
to touch the sensible part. I should also weaken along the edges of the
crack itself by rasping them down. Over the crack, if deep, should be
strapped a thin pad of tow and tar, to induce reproduction and prevent
foreign substances from entering the fissure.
Unless by the grossest neglect, no sand-crack will have been allowed
to go beyond the reach of the foregoing treatment, but in some cases
the effect of negligence and ignorance is seen in the horizontal crack
running almost round the foot. In such cases it will generally be found
that with a flat foot (inclined to greater malformation) the toes have
been suffered to extend, shoeing after shoeing, by the smith allowing
a great accumulation of wall over the toe, until the centre has become
weakened into a fissure. Such a state of things seldom or never occurs in
a gentleman’s stable, but is to be met with among farm-horses or those
accustomed to heavy draught.
The careful strapping-up with tar and tow, which must be constantly
attended to, rest, and the indentation process, will, with _time_ and
_care_, effect a cure.
Sand-crack, especially the vertical, is more dangerous and tedious the
nearer it is to the coronet. This once divided, the case becomes serious,
the coronet being very vascular, and a split here requires a great deal
of care to induce it to take on union. Unless the closing commences
at the coronet, and continues as the hoof grows _down_, it will never
close _at all_; in fact, if the coronet be divided, it is fortunate if
the crack does not go the whole way down to the shoe. If it does not,
the lower end should be weakened by filing an indentation at its lower
extremity, weakening the sides of the crack by rasping them, and keeping
the hoof strapped round with dressings of tar and tow, also (a most
_important_ part of the treatment) paring away the wall of the foot
(above the shoe and immediately under the crack) an inch—that is, half an
inch on each side of it—making as large a vacuum as can with safety to
the sensible parts of the foot be pared away, directly under the crack
and over the shoe; the object of this being that all parts of the wall
except that under the crack shall press on the shoe. It is obvious that
by the above means every movement of the horse, in place of aggravation,
will tend towards alleviation of the disease, by pressing the weakened
sides of the fissure together. For the foregoing reasons, in the case of
a vertical crack the shoes had better remain on, while in the worst cases
of the horizontal crack, as its weight round the bottom tends to weaken
the centre of the hoof where the crack is likely to be situated, it had
better be removed (or light tips worn), its absence also enabling the
wall of the hoof under the crack to be rasped as thin as possible. In
vertical cracks the use of a bar-shoe will tend to keep the foot together
(page 81).
_Corns_ are occasioned by the inflexible shoe pressing on that part
of the sole, or possibly from friction of the bones upon its internal
surface. They present the appearance of a red effused bruise, almost
invariably situated on the heel of the sole of the inside quarter of the
fore feet.—_See_ illustration, fig. 3, page 130.
When neglected, they occasion severe lameness, and go on to suppuration.
Broken knees are also frequently the result of neglected corns.
A horse that is habitually properly shod is never likely to have a corn.
It arises entirely from want of attention and judgment in the smith.
The groom, who should always stand by when a horse is shoeing, ought to
be instructed to see that the farrier with his drawing-knife invariably
pares out the sole at the seat of corn; it can be no injury whatever
to the foot when properly done, and is the best preventive of corns.
Also take proper care that the shoes are so put on that they cannot by
possibility press upon the sole.
For prevention, keep the seat of corn well pared away, and dress with
tar, unless in the suppurating state, when it requires poultices (page
160), and the ordinary treatment for that state, and full rest.
_Over-reach_ or _Tread_ proceeds from the shoe of one foot coming in
contact with the soft or sensible part above the hoof of the other. As
the parts likely to be affected round the coronet are full of vessels,
the simplest remedial means are the safest—viz., water-dressing (page
160) in the first instance, and afterwards chloride of zinc lotion (one
grain to the ounce of water), or glycerine.
_Broken Knees._—Most travellers on the road know what style of thing this
is, so it is needless to describe it.
In bad cases, where the bones are exposed, and there is any appearance of
synovia or joint-oil, place the horse in the nearest convenient stable,
and leave him there to be attended to by a professional man as soon
as possible. When the abrasion is merely superficial, take the animal
quietly to his stable, if near.
In any event, wash the wound with warm water, which, if it be at all
deep, should be done by squeezing the water _above_ the wound, and
allowing it to run down, as this part of the leg is very delicate and
sensitive, and rough handling with a cloth or sponge should be avoided.
Afterwards apply a lotion of chloride of zinc, one grain to the ounce of
water.
Tie the creature’s head up in such a way as that he cannot possibly lie
down, until the healing process has assumed sufficient health to render
it safe to allow of the knee being used in lying down and getting up.
Give one or two mild purges, according to the time he is laid up and the
healthiness of the wound. To promote the growth of hair, use, when the
knee is perfectly healed, hog’s lard mixed with very finely powdered
burnt leather to colour it; it is as good and safe a thing as can be
employed for the purpose. Otherwise use _weak_ mercurial ointment. For
prevention, avoid the use of bearing-reins in harness; in shafts, keep
the weight off your horse’s back; keep out of the way of ruts and stones
upon the road, and be very careful of your beast when the work you are
giving him is calculated to make him leg-weary.
In riding, teach your bearer to depend on himself, _not_ on you: at the
same time, don’t leave him to himself altogether. Go gently round sharp
turns, and don’t ride fast down-hill on the road, though on the turf or
in harness the pace may be accelerated with impunity. Avoid inflicting
sudden, injudicious, and undeserved chastisement; restrain starts or
alarms; have your horses properly prepared in frosty weather; also be
sure that the seat of corn is kept well pared out in shoeing. If your
saddle has shifted forward out of its place, dismount and regirth it
where it fits, so that when you remount your weight will be properly
placed away from the shoulders.
When the road is the only place available to have your horses exercised,
see that your grooms put on the knee-caps.
_Splints_ are a well-known affection of the fore leg, presenting the
appearance of a bony protrusion along the canon or shank, which, though
unsightly, is not very important, unless when lameness ensues.
As it is not my intention to enter into professional technicalities in
this work, I shall merely remark that, by letting the horse continue
in moderate work, though lame, with the application of Stevens’s
ointment, according to the directions accompanying it, absorption of
the bony matter will be obtained, or, at all events, it will become so
far resolved that the surrounding structures being able to accommodate
themselves to what remains of it, their action will not be interfered
with, and lameness will consequently no longer appear. Veterinarians
sometimes perform a simple operation for splints which is said to be
efficacious—namely, that of dividing the periosteum with a bistuary, the
periosteum being that membrane which encases all bones like a skin. When
this is cleverly done, there is little or no disfiguration left. Setons
also are sometimes run over the exostosis or bony excrescence, but I deal
only with simple remedies. As splints cannot be prevented, being a common
result of work in young horses, the next best thing to be done is to
resolve them while in an incipient state.
_Clap of the Back Sinew_—_i.e._, inflammation of the sheath under which
the flexor tendon passes (as the most able practitioners deny that the
tendon itself can be stretched, though it is liable to rupture about
its insertions)—is best treated, according to some, by cold refrigerant
lotions, Goulard lotion, solution of acetate of lead, &c.
I prefer plain water-dressing (page 160) placed loosely round the
affected part of the leg, and the use of a high-heeled shoe (page
82). When the attack is beyond the reach of such mild treatment, the
veterinary surgeon will probably advise blistering and firing to act as a
perpetual bandage.
Moderate work on even surfaces will be the best preventive of this
disease, and having the pavement of your stables made nearly level, as
described under the head of “Stabling” (page 8).
_Wind-Galls_ are undue distensions of the bursæ or bags of synovia at
the back and sides of the lower part of the canon or shin intended to
lubricate the adjacent structure. Though unsightly, and no improvement
to the action of the horse, they can be reduced by external absorbents
(page 159), also by bandages with refrigerant repellants, such as vinegar
and water (_see_ “Grooming,” page 12).
_Riding-Bone_ is an unhealthy enlargement round the pastern above the
coronet, generally in front, and may be removed in the incipient stage
by external absorbents (page 159), beyond which a professional man had
better be consulted.
_Wrench_ or _Wrick_, occasioned by accident or strain in work over
a rough path by a slip, presents generally no external swelling or
indication of suffering beyond lameness in movement; but on close
examination, inflammation will be discovered by extra heat about the part
affected. Remove the shoe, give plenty of rest, and apply water-dressing
(page 160) round the affected part. A purge may be administered, as
recommended in all cases where the animal is laid up for several days. To
avoid wrench, care should be observed in starting, turning, and working a
horse, especially on uneven ground or when heavily laden.
_Mallenders_ and _Sallenders_ denote a scurvy state of the skin inside
the bend of the knees and hocks. Let the parts be cleansed with hot
water and soft soap, and rub in equal parts of hog’s lard and mercurial
ointment mixed; if there be a positive crack or sore, use the chloride of
zinc lotion (_see_ page 158) till healed. Keep a good attentive groom,
and see that he does his work, as such blemishes are occasioned by
carelessness and want of cleanliness.
_Spavin_ is like splint, a bony excrescence, but on the lower part of the
leg, at the inside of the _hock_ towards the front, occasioned by local
derangement from overwork of the structure.
If it does not produce lameness it had better be left alone; but
otherwise, the horse being placed in a loose-box, rest should be given,
and treatment with absorbents (page 159), the use of Stevens’s ointment,
&c., persisted in. A mild purge or two during the process will be
beneficial.
As in nearly all affections of the legs and feet, proper reasonable work
and due care will avert the disease or disfigurement.
_Curb_ is an enlargement of the tendon or its sheath at the lower part of
the back of the hock, with a good deal of local inflammation attending it.
It is greatly occasioned by the fashion some riders have of habitually
throwing their horses back on their hocks by severe use of the bit.
Use water-dressing to reduce inflammation, then absorbents, such as
Stevens’s ointment (page 159). Give rest, &c., as directed for Spavin.
_String-Halt_ is a well-known and only too conspicuous defect or
affection of the nerves of the hind limbs, or emanating from the spine.
As its local origin is obscure, so also is the method of dealing with it.
It is in no way dangerous, though unsightly, and seriously deteriorating
to the value of the animal, although it is said not to interfere much
with his working powers.
_Capped Hock_ is a pursy swelling over the _os calcis_ or heel-bone at
the end of the hock, generally produced by kicking either in the stable
or against some object in harness, or possibly in consequence of exertion
in getting up and lying down on a scanty bed, especially where the
paving-stones are uneven.
Use hot fomentations, loose water-dressing, followed by rubbing in
iodine ointment, if necessary, for reduction, but this must be done with
judgment and careful observance of the effect the iodine produces. Or,
after using hot fomentations for a week, apply gas water (which can be
obtained from any gas-works) with a sponge dabbed on every hour during
the day. This treatment, if persisted in, is said to be very efficacious.
For prevention, keep a good bed for your horse to lie on at night. See
“Kicking in the Stable” (page 85) and “Kicking-Strap” (page 58).
_Thorough-Pin_ and _Bog-Spavin_ are, like wind-galls, an undue distension
of the bursæ containing the synovia intended to keep the surrounding
parts of the leg lubricated; such distension interfering with the
circulation of the vein in front of the hock is denominated “Blood” (or
Bog) Spavin; at the back and sides of the hock these distensions are
called Thorough-Pin.
The treatment is with hot fomentations and gas water, as in “capped
hock,” or other absorbents, especially Stevens’s ointment, iodine
ointment, blisters, and actual cautery, which remedies had better be
tried in rotation, the three latter only by a practitioner; but unless
the distensions produce lameness, it is perhaps preferable not to meddle
with them at all.
There are other diseases of the feet and legs, but requiring very
delicate definitions: they must be left altogether to the professional
man.
As a rule, in all cases where it may be considered desirable to use
stimulating or strong absorbing treatment externally to cure lameness,
the inflammation should be first fully abated by _local_ cooling
applications; and in severe cases, purges administered before the
application of blisters or powerful absorbents.
FARCY.
This dreaded disease is, I believe, like glanders, incurable, and
generally ends in glanders itself.
Some practitioners seem to be under the impression that it only attacks
worn-out and ill-conditioned animals; but from personal losses and sad
experience I may venture to differ entirely from such an opinion, and
to state that I have seen horses in the finest condition lost by it.
No doubt feeble animals are very liable to it, but the disease is not
confined to such constitutions. I have remarked that, when contracted
by high-conditioned horses, it can be traced to their being called on
occasionally to do extra work, followed by entire rest for days together,
as a sort of equivalent for the spurt of work done, during which period
of rest (considered necessary on account of the beast’s supposed state of
exhaustion) his powers are taxed with the same amount of high feeding as
if he were in full work.
Thus the absorbent system seems to become diseased, and farcy-buds
appear, accompanied by craving thirst, in which case, or on the least
suspicion of the disease, reference should at once be made to a
professional man.
From these buds (whence after a time matter is seen to exude) small cords
may be traced leading to other swellings, rather serving to distinguish
the early stages of farcy from surfeit, besides that in surfeit the lumps
appear indolent and scabby.
To guard against this scourge of the stable, as the disease is
contagious, be careful what company your horses keep, and let reason be
used in the working, feeding, exercising, and general care of your stud.
What is called _Water Farcy_ is neither dangerous nor contagious, and
arises from debility of the system, occasioned probably by overwork and
indifferent feeding.
It is generally marked by a dropsical swelling of the legs, mostly the
hind ones. It is not common in gentlemen’s stables, where horses are less
worked and better cared for than their neighbours.
The best cure is friction to the swelling, moderate work, and improved
feeding; and give a ball twice a-day, each dose with
Sulphate of iron, 2 drachms.
Powdered ginger, 2 ”
Powdered gentian, 2 ”
To be mixed with palm-oil or lard.
RINGWORM.
Ringworm is characterised by one or more scurfy or scaly circular patches
on the skin where the hair has fallen off. As soon as discovered, let
the parts be washed with soap and tepid water twice a-day; and when they
have been gently but perfectly dried, apply rather thickly the following
ointment over the spots:—
Animal glycerine, 1 ounce.
Spermaceti, 1 ”
Iodide of lead, 2 drachms.
Rub the glycerine and spermaceti together, and when thoroughly
incorporated, add the iodide of lead; give also every night the following
drink:—
Liquor arsenicalis, 1 ounce.
Tincture of muriate of iron, 1½ ”
Water, 1 quart.
Mix.—Dose, half a pint.
Continue this drink until the disease has disappeared.
Should ulceration remain about the circumferent edges after the central
bare spot has been apparently cured, apply to the affected circuit six
times a-day persistently the following lotion:—
Chloride of zinc, 2 scruples.
Water, 1 pint.
The animal should be thrown up from work during this treatment, which may
be requisite for a month, and good food given.
Administer also a powerful alterative or two during the course of
treatment, more particularly if the case is obstinate.[32]
Other practitioners recommend, with the administration of alteratives,
the simple application of a solution of nitrate of silver, 30 grains to
1 ounce of water (distilled), applied every second day to the eruptions,
until they are destroyed.
SURFEIT
is an eruption on the skin, and generally gives way, if attended to
immediately on its appearance, by relaxing the bowels mildly, giving
partly green food instead of hay and bran mashes; at the same time keep
up the strength by feeding with the best oats and a little beans,
alternately with the laxative treatment.
Should these means not suffice, or the disease become worse, consult a
medical practitioner, who will probably administer diuretics; or if you
cannot procure a professional man, give the following excellent tonic and
alterative drink, recommended by Mr Mayhew:—
Liquor arsenicalis, 1 ounce.
Tincture of muriate of iron, 1½ ”
Water, 1 quart.
Mix, and give daily half a pint for a dose.
_Hidebound_ requires the same treatment as surfeit.
_Mange_ is generally the result of insufficient food and other privations
endured at grass, and of the neglect of the skin consequent on animals
being turned out for a time to take care of themselves.
It is highly contagious, and is now admitted to be occasioned by an
insect which is engendered in the foul coat.
A capital wash is recommended by Mr Mayhew, viz.:—
Animal glycerine, four parts.
Creosote, half a part.
Oil of turpentine, one part.
Oil of juniper, half a part.
About a pint and a half is said to be the quantity required to make one
dressing. Every portion of the entire coat should be saturated with this
wash, and thus left for two clear days, when it should be washed clean
with soft soap and warm water, equal care being taken to omit no part of
the body, which should afterwards be thoroughly dried and the coat well
dressed or whisked.
When all is dry and clean apply a second dressing, proceeding as directed
for the first, and a third after the two days have elapsed and the
second cleaning process has been thoroughly gone through, after which
the disease ought to be eradicated. A mere disposition to scratching is
generally successfully treated by giving bran mashes night and morning
for some days, and part green food instead of hay. Others recommend for
mange, as most successful, the following application, to be well rubbed
in once a-week all over the animal with a stiff horse-brush:—
Barbadoes tar, 1 part.
Linseed oil, 3 parts.
To be mixed and gently warmed in a pan.
The whole of the horse’s body to be thoroughly washed with soft soap and
warm water, and PERFECTLY _dried_, previous to rubbing in the foregoing
application.
SORE BACK, WITHERS, AND SITFASTS,
should be carefully attended to with poultices or water-dressing (_see_
page 160), while a disposition to throw off pus is present, after which
the application of healing agents (among which chloride of zinc lotion
and glycerine are now prominent) is the proper course, but applicable
only to decidedly trifling and superficial cases. It is imperative, if
a cure be desired, that no pressure whatever from the saddle or any
other cause of irritation be permitted; therefore, unless a saddler can
effectually chamber and pack the saddle so as to prevent the possibility
of its touching on or near the sore, the saddle must not be used at all.
The worst and common result of sores on the back is, that sinuses or
cavities, with an almost imperceptible orifice, insidiously eat away like
poll-evil into the more important part of the adjacent structure. Here
the aid of the veterinary surgeon is indispensable.
(Being myself acquainted with anatomy, I used to get a
depending orifice as near as possible to the bottom of the
sinus (as discovered with a probe) by a bistuary, laying
the sinus open all the way; or if the direction were rather
superficial, by the insertion of a seton-needle about the width
of the sinus, run out at bottom, leaving the seton in to direct
the discharge. The latter operation, if carefully conducted, is
decidedly the simplest and best when practicable.)
For prevention of sore back avoid injurious pressure from an ill-fitting
saddle; also removing it too quickly from, the back of a heated animal
(_see_ “Work,” page 37). Pressure of the terret-pad (_see_ page 59), or
of the roller from not being properly chambered over the ridge of the
back (_see_ page 19), must also be carefully guarded against.
WOUNDS,
if deep or dangerous, should meet with the immediate attention of
a surgeon, as none but anatomists should deal with them. Generally
speaking, the loss of a moderate quantity of blood is rather beneficial
than otherwise, tending to avert inflammation. Where water-dressing
(_see_ page 160) can be applied, nothing is better in the first instance;
and when the wound is fairly cleansed and evidently healing, the chloride
of zinc lotion (_see_ page 158) will advance that process and help to dry
it up. When the surface is _perfectly_ healed and a new skin formed, the
growth of the hair will be promoted by the application of hog’s lard
coloured with very finely powdered burnt leather.
MEGRIMS OR EPILEPSY
may proceed from the effects of the sun in very hot weather, from
congestion of the blood-vessels of the brain and head, or from disordered
stomach or indigestion. The horse when at work suddenly evinces a
disinclination to proceed, appears bothered, and shows unaccountable
perverseness—sometimes staggers and falls. Release him at once from
whatever work he may be at; if the cause can be descried, treat in the
most reasonable way accordingly. If the illness is supposed to proceed
from the heat of the sun or congestion of the head, dash water on the
head and keep it enveloped in cold wet cloths; also cool the system by
aperients, giving rest for some time. If from indigestion, repeated mild
aperients should be administered.
It is a strange fact known to those who are experienced on the road, that
these fits are seldom or never taken during work at night. When such
attacks are habitual the animal is only fit for farm-work.
CRIB-BITING AND WIND-SUCKING.
Some able veterinarians declare these habits to be the result of an
endeavour to eject acidity from the stomach as the horse cannot vomit,
while others compare it to the human belch. It is almost impossible to
_cure_ a crib-biter; the only thing that can be done is, to palliate and
prevent it, which is essential, as the habit is not only injurious to
the horse himself, but one that, strange to say, is most readily imitated
by his companions; in whatever stable such an animal may be, the others
are liable to become crib-biters.
By leaving a lump of rock-salt in horses’ mangers many ailments may be
averted. Licking it is a resource to them in their hours of solitary
confinement. In the present instance a lump of chalk might be added,
for the animal to amuse himself at any moment that he is left without
a muzzle (which should be made for him by an experienced saddler, and
constantly used). The chalk being essentially antacid, is decidedly
useful if the habit is supposed to result from acidity.
As the muzzle should not be left off for any length of time, the food
should be prepared to be taken up in the most rapid form—viz., a small
quantity of chaff to bruised oats. When the beast finds by experience
that his feeding-time is limited, with starvation for the alternative, he
will probably prefer his food to gnawing the iron during the short space
allowed him without his muzzle. A simple remedy sometimes used with good
effect is, keeping a tightened strap round the creature’s neck when he
is not feeding; and I have known the covering of every portion of the
stall within his reach with rabbit or sheep skins, the hair outside,
to effectually check a crib-biter for the time being,—the habit being
resumed, however, on his removal to another stall.[33]
METASTASIS.
As this term is frequently used by practitioners, it may be well to
explain that it is a Greek word signifying a removal from one place to
another, employed as a technical designation in describing a change of
the seat of disease from one part of the animal structure to another,
which is by no means uncommon: for instance, when the feet are attacked
with fever, that malady will appear to remove itself to some other and
probably distant part, and fix itself on the lungs or other viscera, the
same way that inflammation of the lungs and other parts of the upper
structure will change amongst themselves, or from their own seat of
disease to the feet.[34] I have even known superpurgation (occasioned,
in a pair of horses, by _undue_, but not severe work when under the
irritation of the medicine) to cause fever of the feet, by a metastasis,
changing the seat of irritation from the internals to the extremities—a
very palpable case in point.
SETONS.
The insertion of a seton properly belongs to the professional man,
and only for the guidance of persons who, from living in remote
neighbourhoods or other causes, cannot possibly procure the assistance
of such, the following information is inserted, in order to obviate
the necessity for some ignorant farrier being permitted to perform the
operation after his own fashion. The skin is first divided, by surgical
scissors made for such purposes, to the width of the seton-needle to be
used, which must be wide or narrow, according to the orifice required,
with white linen tape passed through its eye, about the same width as
the needle and orifice. The needle is then inserted at the opening, and,
passing superficially under the skin, is directed towards the point where
the lower or depending orifice is intended to be, and where the needle
and tape are drawn out. Sufficient tape must be left at each extremity
to admit not only of its being tied round small rolls of tow which keep
the tape from running through at either side, but some inches of the tape
should be left in addition at one end, to allow of a portion being drawn
out at one orifice each day, and a fresh piece with dressing being drawn
in at the other.
In cases where there is already an upper orifice with sinuses, the
surgeon (if he does not lay the place entirely open with a knife, which,
if the sinuses are deep-seated, he will do) will insert the seton-needle
at such orifice, no incision with the scissors being necessary, the
direction of the sinuses having been first ascertained by the careful
use of the probe. The dressing to be applied to the tape will be either
chloride of zinc lotion, Venice turpentine, or tincture of arnica lotion
(_see_ “Lotions”), according as the healing or discharging process may
be desired, the first being the healing application. Farriers attempting
this operation will even now adopt an old and most objectionable practice
of tying the two ends of the seton-tape together, and turning it round at
each fresh dressing; the consequence being that, if anything happen to
catch in the loop thus made, the whole piece of skin may be dragged out.
LOTIONS, PURGES, BLISTERS, &c.
AS A RULE, ALL VOLATILE OILS OR TINCTURES SHOULD BE ADMINISTERED IN COLD
WATER, OR LIQUID.
_Strong Heeding Lotion._—Chloride of zinc, two scruples; water, one pint.
_Weaker, as for Sore Mouth, &c._—Chloride of zinc, one scruple; water,
one pint.
_To encourage Pus, and heal subsequently._—Tincture of arnica, one ounce;
water, one pint.
_To keep off Flies from Wounds or Bruises._—Apply a rag dipped in
solution of tar.
_Glycerine Lotion._—Glycerine, half pint; chloride of zinc, half ounce;
water, six quarts.
_To abate External Inflammation._—Vinegar, two ounces; Goulard lotion,
one ounce; water, two pints.
_Liniment for the Neck in Cold and Distemper, Sore Throat, &c._—One part
spirit of turpentine, two parts oil, mixed, or equal parts of each, and
rubbed in once or twice daily.
_Purges._—A mild purge is composed of—aloes, four drachms; extract of
gentian, two drachms.
_A very mild Laxative Drench._—Castor-oil, three ounces; linseed-oil, two
ounces; warm gruel, one pint—Mix.
Of linseed-oil alone the ordinary dose is one pint. If ineffectual, to be
repeated, with the addition of twenty drops of croton-oil.
_Alterative Ball_ (for surfeit and skin diseases).—Cream of tartar, half
drachm; nitre, two drachms; flowers of sulphur, half ounce—Mix in mass.
_External Absorbents._—Iodine ointment and tincture, Stevens’s
ointment,[35] water-dressing.
_Restoratives or Renovators—Drenches._—A quart of stout, morning or
evening; hay-tea, when mashes are refused; gruel properly prepared (page
161) and linseed mashes (page 22).
_Soothing Drench in Colic._—Sulphuric ether, one ounce; laudanum, one
ounce; linseed-oil, one pint.
_Astringent Drenches_ (for diabetes).—Diluted phosphoric acid, one ounce;
chilled water, one pint.
Or—Oak-bark, one ounce; alum, quarter ounce; camomile tea, one pint—Made
into a drench.
Feeding on old hay is generally effectual to check purging.
_Clysters_[36] (for diarrhœa, dysentery, or over-purgation).—Laudanum,
one ounce—Mixed in three pints warm thin starch, repeated every
half-hour, as long as necessary. (The above is soothing and _astringent_.)
(For inflammation of the bladder or kidneys.)—Injections of warm
linseed-tea constantly repeated.
(For dysentery.)—Injections of cold linseed-tea.
(For colic.)—Injection of one pint of turpentine mixed in two quarts of
hot soap-suds. (Soothing and _laxative_.)
_Ointment_ (to recover hair).—Equal parts hogs’ lard and mercurial
ointment, with _very finely powdered_ burnt leather to colour it.
_Poultices_ are made of bran or linseed-meal, with boiling water, and
applied as hot as bearable. They are seldom used except for the feet, in
which cases the leather shoe is useful.
_Water-dressing_ (for sores, &c.)—Pads of linen kept _continually fully_
saturated with water, and entirely over them is kept fixed a waterproof
covering of oiled silk or calico (gutta-percha is too liable to tear),
to prevent evaporation. The pads should be changed every three or four
hours, and cleansed where they are intended to promote effusion of matter.
_For Acidity._—A lump of chalk kept in the manger.
_For General Health._—A lump of rock-salt always in the manger.
_For Worms._—One to two grains of arsenic and twenty grains of kamela
twice daily (each dose mixed in a handful of wet bran, and given with
oats or other feeding) for eighteen days, and a purge the nineteenth
morning. The horse may get _moderate_ work during the administration of
the powders. Or, common salt, a tablespoonful daily, to be mixed with the
food.
_Strong Mustard Blister._—For cases of acute inflammation, mustard to be
made into a paste, eight ounces; oil of turpentine, two ounces—To be well
rubbed into the chest or belly in severe inflammation.
_Blisters_ should never be applied to a horse’s four legs at the same
time, as is the practice with some farriers. Two legs only should be
blistered at once, and an interval of three or four days suffered to
elapse before the application of the remaining blisters. The animal’s
head should be tied up for at least thirty hours after the blister is put
on, to prevent his gnawing the part; but if a cradle round the neck can
effect the same purpose in cases where other parts are blistered, its use
is preferable to tying up the head.
_Sedative._—To allay excitement after a wound, &c.: tincture of aconite,
ten to twenty drops, in drench of one pint of water with chill off.
_To make Gruel._—Mix well a pound of oatmeal in a quart of cold water;
put this mixture in a stew-pan containing three quarts of boiling water,
stir all well over the fire till it becomes thick, then leave it aside to
cool sufficiently to be eatable.
_Disinfectant._—As it will perhaps be useful to any proprietor of
horse-flesh, who may unfortunately have had contagious disease in
his stables, such as farcy or glanders, to know how premises should
be disinfected according to the most approved means, the following
recommendations of Government for purifying the holds of ships, during
the prevalence of rinderpest, are appended:—
_Suggestions for Disinfecting Holds of Ships._—The Government has issued
the following circular to the shipowners and veterinary inspectors of
Irish ports. It must not be forgotten that the importation of raw hides
is still permitted.
“_23d August 1865._
“The usual means had recourse to for the purpose of
disinfecting the holds of vessels (such as washing and
subsequently applying diluted disinfecting solutions, the most
generally used of which is chloride of lime), do not possess
sufficient efficacy, particularly within the limited time that
can be devoted to that purpose, without interfering with the
commercial interests of the vessels.
“It would occupy too much time to carefully scour and
afterwards apply a disinfecting fluid to the entire surface of
a ship’s hold, in which, generally, there are many crevices
and parts that cannot be reached by the hand or brush. Such
crevices and parts are capable of retaining the contagious and
infectious principles in all their virulence.
“Holds of vessels, and all other chambers from which the
external air can be excluded for a time, can be, comparatively
speaking, most effectually disinfected by filling them with
chlorine gas, the great disinfecting principle of chloride of
lime. The gas insinuates itself into every chink, crevice,
and part of the chamber in which it is confined, and more
effectually decomposes the contagious and infectious compounds,
whether they be solid, fluid, or aeriform, than any other
disinfectant equally easy of application, and as cheap. The
mode of disinfecting the hold of a vessel with chlorine is, to
place a quantity of common salt and black oxide of manganese in
a strong basin, which may be put into a bucket, to the handle
of which a rope has been attached. Pour on the salt and black
oxide of manganese their combined weight of sulphuric acid;
then let the bucket containing the basin a little way down into
the hold by the rope attached to its handle. The chlorine gas,
being heavier than the atmospheric air, will quickly displace
the latter and fill the hold. In a short time, when the hold
has become filled with chlorine, the hatches may be battened
down for about half an hour.
“Previous to using the hold again for live freight, a current
of air should be admitted through it to remove the chlorine.
“Many recommend the use of charcoal; but it is not alone
more difficult of application, but it is much less of a
disinfectant than a deodoriser. Charcoal will not, like the
chlorides, decompose the matter of disease. If the damp
matter of glanders, or sheep-pox, be well mixed with a strong
solution of chloride of lime, it will seldom produce bad
effects by inoculation; but if pure charcoal of any kind be
used, the contagious principle of the diseased matter is
not at all diminished in its virulence—quite the contrary;
similar results are found if cow-pox be the matter used in the
experiment.
“The cost of the readiest materials for the production of
chlorine gas is very trifling. The salt is not ¼d. per pound;
black oxide of manganese but 4d. per pound; and sulphuric acid
1½d. per pound. These are the retail prices. A couple of pounds
weight of each would suffice for a large-sized hold.
“The attention of the customs, shipowners, and veterinary
inspectors is directed to the above disinfecting means.
(Signed)
“HUGH FERGUSON,
Her Majesty’s Veterinary Surgeon,
Principal Government Veterinary Inspector, Ireland.”
FOOTNOTES
[1] It may be well to let my readers know how I became experienced
on the _road_. In the days when coaching was in its perfection (and
when many country gentlemen indulged in their fancy for the use of the
“ribbons”), I became, during a long interval from service, deeply and
actively concerned in a coaching establishment of the first order; and
those who, some years since, travelling between Dublin and Killarney
_via_ Limerick (a distance of about 185 miles), may have happened to hear
coachmen and helpers talking of the “Captain,” will recognise in the
writer the individual thus referred to, who was also in partnership with
the famous Bianconi in the staging on the Killarney line. Several years
spent in such a school will probably be considered a good apprenticeship
to the study of one branch of the subject herein treated upon—viz., the
management of horses on the road.
[2] The soubriquet by which the Author is known in his regiment.
[3] It, however, is treated more fully in a new section, page 93, which,
at the request of many readers, and in consequence of its increasing
interest to a large portion of the community, has been added to this
edition.
[4] The French dealers of the present day choose, for gentlemen’s
hack-horses, chestnuts with legs white half-way up, causing the action to
look more remarkable. “There’s no accounting for taste.”
[5] It is to be remarked of bays, mouse-colours, and chestnuts, having
a streak of a darker colour over the backbone from mane to tail (which
sometimes, as with the donkey, crosses the shoulder)—that animals thus
marked generally possess peculiar powers of endurance; and rat-tailed
ones, though ugly, prove very serviceable.
[6] The extremes of various bad positions of the head when the bit is put
in operation are—the throwing up the nose horizontal with the forehead,
a trick denominated “stargazing,” at which ewe-necked horses are very
ready, and getting the bit up to the angles of the jaws. Such a horse can
easily run away, and cannot be commanded without a martingal. Another
bad point is when the animal leans his jaw firmly against the bit, and,
placing his head between his fore legs, the neck being over-arched, goes
where he pleases: such is called by horsemen “a borer.”
[7] The racer not coming within the province, of this little work, I
will only offer one maxim with reference to such horses in general—viz.,
never race any horse unless you make up your mind to have most probably a
fretful, bad-tempered animal ever after. The course of training and the
excitement of contest will induce such a result.
[8] If you happen to buy a low-priced animal, and depend upon your own
opinion as to soundness, it is well to feel and look closely at the back
part of the fore leg, above the fetlock, and along the pasterns, for
cicatrices left after the performance of the operation of unnerving, by
means of which a horse will go perhaps apparently sound while navicular
disease is progressing in his foot, to terminate in most serious
consequences.—_See_ “Navicular Disease,” page 134.
[9] The old-fashioned pattern, with leather gear, is, after all, the
best, as proved by the most practical men of the day.
[10] It has been truly said by the well-known Mr Elmore, that there is a
key to every horse’s mouth, requiring only proper hands to apply it.
[11] The famous Irish jumper “Distiller” was notorious among many
other good fencers as a bungler on the road, though he would jump a
six-foot-six stone wall with ease, sporting two large broken knees in
consequence of his performance in that line; and in fencing he was also
first-rate.
[12] I may recommend Gibson, 6 Coventry Street, Leicester Square, as an
excellent, intelligent, and experienced saddler.
[13] Latchford, 11 Upper St Martin’s Lane, London, and all saddlers.
[14] All the foregoing observations on saddlery apply equally to ladies’
saddles. Marked attention should be paid before they mount to the girths,
which should be very tight, to prevent the saddle from turning, a lady’s
weight being often altogether on one side.
[15] As a good shoulder, such as will keep a saddle in its place, is
one of the great essentials in a gentleman’s hack, or indeed in an
officer’s charger, giving him leverage to lift his legs safely and
showily, it stands to reason that not many such will pass into the ranks
at the Government price for remounts, which, however, is _ample_ to
supply animals suitable for the service, and does so in regiments where
the class of horse provided at once proves that the whole sum allowed
is invested in the remount itself, and proper judgment exercised in
purchasing.
[16] It might not be out of place to mention, for the information of
those who desire to be well taught, that, to my own knowledge, Allen’s,
in Seymour Place, Bryanstone Square, and Clarendon’s, in Great Brunswick
Street, Dublin, are excellent riding-schools.
[17] Those who probably have never received a professional riding-lesson
in their lives, but still, from intuitive taste, ride with ease and
ability.
[18] Talking of a horse being self-dependent in his movement on the
road, puts me in mind of a challenge once accepted by a very practical
horseman, to ride a notorious stumbler (reduced by this defect to mere
farm-work) three times round Stephen’s Green, Dublin (a distance of over
three miles), without falling. Given his choice of bits, some being of
the severest kind, he rejected them all, desiring the groom to get him a
common hemp halter, and with this simple head-gear, riding bare-backed,
he accomplished the distance without the slightest mishap, and thereby
won a large bet. The groom, however, resumed the use of the bit to ride
the horse home (now feeling sufficient confidence to trust himself on his
back instead of leading him), when the animal fell on his knees before he
had gone a hundred yards.
[19] The incautious use of that rein, which has leverage on the curb,
is very apt, with young unformed horses, or such as have been only
accustomed to the bridoon or snaffle, to induce a notion of rearing,
especially in anything of a rough attempt to “rein back” with; indeed,
this latter point of training should be accomplished with the bridoon
only.
[20] One can scarcely repress a smile on hearing cross-country
misfortunes related, as they frequently are, in pretty nearly the
following terms:—“I found my horse going sluggishly at his fences; and
one place looking rather biggish, I shook him up with the bit, and put
both heels into him to rouse him, but somehow or other the brute took off
too soon, caught his fore feet, I suppose, against something, and came
such a cropper on the other side!” or, “The beast kept going at such a
bat at his fences that I brought him to book with my hands down, and with
a good pull steadied him; but the brute with his awkwardness missed his
footing on landing, dropped his hind legs into the brook somehow, and
fell back on me, giving me a regular sousing!”
[21] In obscure lameness, to aid towards discovery of the affected part,
having first decided which leg or foot is diseased, it is not a bad plan
to walk the animal into a stream above the knees and take him out again
(or have water dashed at once fully over the member), then kneel and
closely observe which spot on the surface dries first—that which does so
will probably prove to be the most inflamed part.
[22] In double harness, to increase your power in turning, shorten the
coupling-reins; and to ease your horses, lengthen these to let their
heads work more straight forward.
[23] Any one desiring hints in that line can have the benefit of my
experience in dealing with such cattle, by applying to my publisher.
[24] When a hame martingal strap is used, the pad belly-band should not
be finally buckled until it has been passed through the other.
[25] Yankee fashion is to drive with a rein in each hand. This style in
Ireland is humorously described as “driving with a rein in each hand and
a whip in the other.”
[26] There is a useful and inexpensive contrivance for very temporary
roughing, patented and sold by John Coppard & Co., 24 Fleet Street, who,
on being communicated with, will forward descriptive particulars. There
is also a capital and more permanent arrangement prepared and sold by Mr
Morris of 21 Rathbone Place, Oxford Street, being an improvement on Mr
White’s plan of frosting horses’ shoes, by screwing three sharpened cogs
into each—one at each heel and one at the toe—the shoes when put on being
prepared to receive them.
[27] A suggestion has been made by one of the ablest reviewers of the
first edition of this work, to add a chapter on caprices of horses; and
doubtless such would be so extremely interesting, that the temptation to
insert notes under this head in my first edition was only overcome by the
determination to avoid being led into anecdote, which has been strictly
observed throughout, as being out of keeping with the concise style in
which it was intended that the book should be produced. A few practical
hints are, however, here classed under the head of “Caprice.”
[28] A little work on blood-letting, by Professor Hugh Ferguson of
Dublin, is well worthy of consultation on the subject.
[29] The difference between this disease and attacks of the lower viscera
is, that the animal does not kick about, but generally stands as if
hopeless and helpless.
[30] Practical men will tell you that the readiest and best way to mix
grey powder, as water will not make it adhere, is with saliva in the
palm of the hand, from whence it is transferred by a blunt knife to the
horse’s tongue near the root, the tongue being drawn out for the purpose.
I can vouch for the efficacy of this not very elegant proceeding where
expedition is an object, having witnessed it myself.
[31] This will be found almost a specific; it is recommended by Mr
Mayhew, and is said to have originated with Mr Woodyer, V.S., at
Paddington. Professor Dick is also reputed to have been very successful
in the treatment of this disease, by the use of small and repeated doses
of iodine or iodide of potassium.
[32] This treatment is recommended by Mr Mayhew.
[33] A few of the low class of horsedealers are very clever at passing
off a cribber or wind-sucker.
I have known cases where one might remain in a stable for hours with a
cribber and not detect him. By keeping a continual watch over the animal
and thrashing him directly he attempts to crib, he has been taught to
beware of transgressing in this style in the presence of any one, and
thus even a veterinary surgeon may be deceived, for he is not supposed to
lose his time looking after such details of trickery.
[34] For example, an animal is in nearly a hopeless state from
inflammation of the lungs and pleura, perhaps as a complication of
distemper. Suddenly there is an amelioration in the symptoms; the hurried
breathing resumes the characteristics of ordinary respiration—the owner,
or veterinary surgeon in attendance, pronounces the patient to be out
of danger—the improvement is regarded as almost miraculous. But in
about twenty-four hours, often less, the horse is observed to move with
difficulty in the stable; if he lies down, he is disinclined to get up;
when standing, the fore feet are kept considerably more in advance than
usual, the hind ones far forward under the body, so that they may as
much as possible relieve the fore feet and legs from the superincumbent
weight. In aggravated cases, as the heels of the fore feet are the parts
which bear the most weight in progression, the horse, when forced to
walk, which he can only accomplish with great difficulty, elevates the
toe at every step, bringing the heel, instead of it, to the ground. The
horse is then suffering from acute laminitis, or what is more generally
in horse-parlance termed “founder.”
[35] Prepared and sold by Mr H. R. Stevens, V.S., 8A Park Lane, London,
W., and all chemists.
[36] The use of the clyster syringe by unskilled hands is _very
dangerous_—serious injury to the rectum being the common result;
therefore great caution should be used to insert the pipe (well greased)
slowly and not too high up the channel.
INDEX.
Page
Absorbents 159
Absorbent system 106
Acidity 160
Aconite, tincture of 161
Age, to judge of 3
Ale and porter 24, 37
Alteratives 159
Ambling or pacing 34
American stabling 18
American carriages 74
Arabian horses 95
Arnica lotion 157, 158
Arsenic 124, 160
Auction 6, 89
Axle-boxes 74
Backing 71
Back-raking 122
Back, sore 38, 151
Ball, manner of giving 104
Bandaging 14
Bark of oak 159
Beans and pease 20, 21
Bearing-rein 63, 141
Bedding 9, 10, 27, 38
Belladonna 127
Belly-band, caution 59
Bits 38, 62, 70
Bladder, inflammation of 127, 159
Bleeding 111
Blinkers 62, 70
Blisters and absorbents 159, 160
Blood 94
Board ship 24, 104
Boot of leather 19
Bran mash 22
Break carriage 5, 30
Breaking or training 29
Breaking to harness 30
Breastplate 48
Breeding 1, 93
Bridling 38
Britching 58
Broken knees 141
Broken wind 119
Bronchitis 113
Bruised oats 21
Brushing 78
Buying 6
Calkins or cogs 80, 82
Calomel 125
Canker 136
Cantering 33, 52
Capped hock 145
Caprice 90
Carriages 73, 75
Carrots 23
Casting 102
Cavalry remounts 47
Cavesson 33
Chaff 10, 154
Chain fastenings 17
Chalk 15, 154, 160
Chifney bit 42
Chloride of zinc 158
Chloroform 102
Clap of the back sinew 143
Cleaning in-doors 12, 13
Climate 95
Clipping 16
Clothing 18
Clysters 159
Clysters, danger of using 15, 159
Cold and influenza 110
Colic and gripes 108, 121
Colic drench 159
Collar 60
Colour 2
Contagion 26, 112, 116
Contractors 25
Corns 79, 131, 140
Costiveness 123
Cough 115
Coupling-rein 56
Cracked and greasy heels 136
Crib-biting 153
Croton-oil 108, 159
Crupper 46, 63
Curb 145
Dandriff 14
Dealers 6, 7
Diabetes 123
Diabetes drench 159
Diarrhœa or dysentery 120, 159
Digestive organs, diseases of 120
Diseases 101
Disinfectants 113, 161
Diuretics, and danger of 126
Dogs and cats 11
Dragoons 36, 47, 48, 50
Drainage 8
Draught or traction 58, 72
Drench, way of giving 105
Driving 65
Dumb jockey 30
Dysentery 120, 159
Exercising 31, 107
Exhibitions 94, 97
Eyes, sore 110
Fairs 7
Falling in harness 70
Farcy 26, 107, 147
Febrifuges 117
Feeding 20
Feeding on board ship 24
Feet, diseases of 127
Fencing 53
Fever of the feet, or laminitis 132, 133, 155
Fits 117, 153
Flooring 10, 143
Fomentations 146
Foot, construction of 128
Foot-stopping 13, 38
French horses 1, 2, 96
Frosting 80
Gas water 146
Girthing 44
Glanders 26, 109
Glycerine 158
Goulard lotion 158
Grazing 26
Grey powder 115
Gripes 108, 121
Grooming 12
Grooms’ doctoring 12
Grooms’ requisites 15
Gruel, how to make 161
Hack for draught 5
Hack to ride 3
Halter-cast 17
Haltering 16
Hames 58, 61
Harnessing 56
Harness-room 56
Hay 21
Head, diseases of 109
Head-stall 16
Heels, cracked or greasy 136
Hidebound 150
Hills, to ascend or descend 67, 68
Hood 18
Horse shows 94, 97
Hunter 5, 94
Inflammation of bladder 125, 159
Inflammation of kidneys 125
Inflammation of lungs 114, 155
Influenza 110
Indian gram 22
Iodine ointment 159
Irish hunters 93
Jibbers 71, 87
Jumping 53
Kicking in harness 59, 71, 85
Kicking in stable 85
Kicking-strap 31, 59
Kidneys, inflammation of 125
Knee-caps 19, 31
Knees, broken 141
Lameness 55, 78, 128, 140
Lampas 119
Latches, danger of 10
Lateral cartilage, disease of 135
Laudanum 121, 159
Laxatives 158
Leather boot 19
Leather soles 82
Legs, diseases of 127
Light 9
Liniments 158
Linseed mash 22
Linseed-oil 108, 158
Litter 9, 135
Liver, diseases of 125
Logs to head, tie 17
Loose-boxes 9
Lotions 141, 158
Loungeing or ringing 33, 84
Lungs, inflammation of 114, 155
Mallenders and sallenders 144
Mane 14
Mange 150
Mangers 10
Martingals 40
Mash, to make 22
Megrims 153
Mercurial ointment 141, 160
Mercury.—See Calomel.
Metastasis 155
Mounting of lady in side-saddle 55
Mustard blister 160
Navicular disease 7, 134
Neck, sore 31
Nitre 117, 126
Nose, discharge from, or nasal gleet 110, 116
Noseband 42, 63
Numna or sweat-cloth 38
Oak bark 159
Oats, bruised 21
Ointments 141, 160
Operations 102
Operations, slight 104
Opium, tincture of 121, 123
Out of doors, cleaning 12, 13
Over-reach or tread 140
Pace, generally considered 34, 96
Partitions 10
Pavement 9, 10, 11, 143
Pease 20, 22
Peat or tan as bedding 10, 27
Phosphoric acid 124, 159
Picker 13, 15
Pole-chains and swinging-bars 73
Poll-evil 17, 117
Porter and ale 24, 37
Poultices 160
Private purchase 7, 90
Prizes 94, 97
Public troughs 26
Pulse 109
Purges 108, 158, 159
Purging 106
Purging, to stop 108, 121
Putting to, in draught 57
Quittor 135
Race-horses 1, 6
Racing laws 97
Racks and mangers 10
Rarey’s system 28, 102
Rearing up 52, 86
Restoratives, in work 24, 37
Riding 49
Ringing or loungeing 33
Ring-bone 144
Ringworm 148
Rollers 19, 152
Roughing and frosting 80
Runaways 71
Saddling 43
Sallenders 144
Salt 15, 125, 154, 160
Sand-cracks 138
Saving-collar 30, 61
Sedative 161
Selecting 2
Selling 89
Setons 152, 156
Sex 3
Shape 1, 3, 5, 6, 94
Sheet, shape 18
Shelly hoofs 137
Shipboard 24, 104
Shivering fits 117
Shoeing 75
Shying 88
Side-saddle, for mounting lady to 55
Side-saddle and girths 44, 45
Singeing 15
Sitfasts 151
Size 1, 2, 72, 95
Skin diseases 148, 149, 150
Smelling, sense of 89
Solitude 11, 93
Sore back 38, 151
Sore eyes 110
Sore heels 136
Sore mouth 24, 158
Sore neck 31
Sore throat 118
Sore withers 38, 151
Soundness 5
Spavin, blood 146
Spavin, bone 144
Splinter and swinging bars 73
Splints 142
Stable requisites 15
Stabling 8
Staggers 153
Staling, profuse 123
Stalls 9
Steaming the head 112
Stevens’s ointment 142, 145, 159
Stirrup irons and leathers 45, 46
Stonehenge 11, 30
Stones on the road 13, 40, 55
Stopping feet 13, 38, 76, 134
Strain of back sinew 11, 14, 82, 143
Strangles 118
Straw 9, 10
String-halt 145
Stubbornness 71, 87
Stumbling 40, 52
Surfeit 147, 149
Sweating 32
Synovia 141, 143, 146
Tar 15, 135, 138, 140, 158
Teeth 3, 24, 116
Terret-pad and belly-band 59, 61
Tinctures, administration of 158
Tips 83
Thorough-pin 146
Throat-lash or band 43
Throat, sore 118
Thrush 15, 131, 135
Traces 57
Training 28
Travelling 36, 84
Troop-horses 47, 50
Trotting 34
Turpentine 157, 158
Twitch 75, 104
Unnerving 7, 134
Urinary organs, diseases of 125, 127, 159
Ventilation 8, 18, 102, 109, 112, 115, 118
Vice 84
Vinegar 144, 158
Walking exercise 32
Warranty 5, 7
Water, externally 12, 136
Water-dressing 160
Water farcy 148
Watering 25
Wheels 73
Whip 65
Wind-galls 14, 143
Wind-sucking 153
Withers, sore 38, 151
Work 33
Worms 28, 124, 160
Worm-powder 124
Wounds 152
Wrick or wrench 144
Yellows 125
Young horses 94, 97
Zinc, chloride of 158
PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH.
*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The Handy Horse-book - or Practical Instructions in Driving, Riding, and the - General Care and Management of Horses. 4th ed." ***
Copyright 2023 LibraryBlog. All rights reserved.