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Title: Ten Days' Tour through the Isle of Anglesea - December, 1802
Author: Skinner, John
Language: English
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ANGLESEA***
Transcribed from the July 1908 Charles J. Clark edition by David Price.
Archaeologia Cambrensis
TEN DAYS’ TOUR
THROUGH
THE ISLE OF ANGLESEA
DECEMBER, 1802
BY
REV. JOHN SKINNER
RECTOR OF CAMERTON, SOMERSETSHIRE
[Picture: Decorative shield graphic]
_SUPPLEMENT_, _JULY_, 1908.
* * * * *
LONDON:
Published for the Cambrian Archaeological Association by
CHARLES J. CLARK, 65, CHANCERY LANE, W.C.
* * * * *
INTRODUCTION
THE REV. JOHN SKINNER’S _Ten Days’ Tour Through Anglesey_, which is given
in the following pages, has been carefully transcribed from the
manuscript in the British Museum, the punctuation, spelling, and use of
capitals followed strictly throughout. Some notes have been kindly
furnished by Mr. E. Neil Baynes, F.S.A., and he has also copied (in black
and white) most of the water-colour illustrations which are included in
the manuscript. The illustrations are reduced from the original size,
but with this exception and the absence of colour they have been copied
as closely as possible, with all errors of perspective, etc. Some of the
drawings would appear to have been done by Mr. Skinner in the evening
from memory, and not on the spot. The complete list is printed herewith,
and the pages where the plates appear in the original. A copy of an
extract from Mr. Skinner’s will is subjoined, in which he expresses his
particular wish that the chests containing his numerous notebooks should
not be opened until the expiration of fifty years from the day of his
death.
* * * * *
_Extracted from the Principal Registry of the Probate Divorce_
_and Admiralty Division of the High Court of Justice_
_In the Prerogative Court of Canterbury_.
IN THE WILL of the Reverend JOHN SKINNER late Rector of Camerton in the
county of Somerset deceased dated 1st February 1839 is as follows:—
No. 2. I give and bequeath to the trustees of the British Museum all my
Journals and other Manuscripts transcribed by my late brother Russell
from No. 1 to No. 110 both inclusive and interleaved with original
drawings together with the Journals I have made in my own hand-writing
since my brother’s death from the year one thousand eight hundred and
thirty three to the year one thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight in
volume 1 to volume 36 of an Octavo size with blue Morocco backs
containing altogether in number one hundred and forty six which I desire
may be safely conveyed to the trustees of the British Museum with the
five Iron Chests in which they are now contained and I request my said
executor the Reverend John Hammond to see to the performance of this
bequest in the manner aforesaid and it is my particular wish and request
that neither of the Iron Chests with the contents aforesaid shall be
opened till after the expiration of fifty years from the day of my death
but provided the trustees of the British Museum should raise any
objection thereto it is my will that my before mentioned request should
not be insisted upon.
Proved (with two Codicils)
14th November 1839
Fos 4
J J C
716 Vaughan
N.B.—It is not to be inferred that the foregoing extract contains the
only portion of the said Will referring to the matters therein mentioned.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
1. Plâs Goch 23
2. Blochty Enclosures 25
3. Bryn Gwyn. Stone by Cottage 27
4. Ground Plans, Caer Leb, etc. 28
6, 7. Bodowyr Cromlech (2) 30, 31
8, 9, 10, 11. Carnedd at Plas Newydd (4) 34, 37
12. Cromlech at Plas Newydd 39
Cromlech and Stables (omitted)
5. Ground Plan, Bryn Gwydryn, etc. 42
Coins of Edward VI and Elizabeth
(omitted)
Bryn Celli, Plan and Finds 44
Llanidan Church 49
16. Stone (Fitzgerald) in Llanidan Church 50
17. Maen Llwyd Cromlech 52
18. Frondeg Stone 53
19. Llangadwaladr Church 55
20. Llangadwaladr Doorway, showing Stone 56
Inscription to Rich. Williams (omitted
as it is in the text).
21. Llangadwaladr Church Inscribed Stone 57
22. Henblas Cromlech 60
23. Cerrigceinwen Church 63
24, 25. Cerrigceinwen Church Clochti (2) 64, 55
26, 27, 28. Cerrigceinwen Church Font (2) 66, 68
29. Aberffraw Church Arch 70
Llangwyfan Church (omitted)
31. Llangwyfan Church, Interior 72
32. Llangwyfan House 74
33. Cromlech at Mynydd y Cnwc 75
A half-finished sketch of Trecastel
Bay (omitted)
34. Llanfaelog Cromlech (2) 78, 79
36. Crighyll Cromlech 81
37, 39. Presaddfedd Cromlech (3) 84, 86
Proposed Menai Bridge (omitted)
41. Llantrisant Stone
Pabo Stone (omitted, _vide Arch.
Camb._, January, 1908)
Doorway at Llanbabo (omitted, _vide
Arch. Camb._, January, 1908)
45. Llanfechell Stones
Llanfechell Church and Font
46. Llaneilian Church
Parys Mine (omitted)
48. Three Stones (near Amlwch)
49. Llanol Stone
50. Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain and
Carreg Lleidr
Coin of Diocletian (omitted)
51. View of Bodafon Mountain from N.W.
52. View of Bodafon Mountain from S.E.
53. Stones in Penrhos lligwy Churchyard
54. Lligwy Cromlech
55. Lligwy Cromlech, Caer Lligwy
56. Llanallgo Cromlech and Font (_vide_
note)
Stones at Marianglas (omitted)
58. Llaniestyn Stone
59. Llaniestyn Font
60, 61. Cromlech at Trefor (2)
Altar Tomb in Penmynydd Church,
sketched from memory (omitted)
No. 99. The stepped gable over the gateway should, I think, be over the
porch, and the pointed gable shown over the porch should be over the
gateway, but I am not certain.
No. 115. The font described as in Penrhoslligwy Church is really the old
font of Llanallgo. It was covered with plaster and set on a rough mass
of masonry. When the Church was restored, about fifteen years ago, the
plaster was cut away and the font was redressed.
* * * * *
N.B.—The beginning of a page in the original is marked by the
introduction in the text of folio and number between brackets, thus (fol.
22).
_Additional MSS._ 33,636
This book was transcribed from my Journal by my
brother RUSSELL SKINNER (who was the companion
of my Tour) Anno Dom: 1804
* * * * *
SKETCHES IN ANGLESEA
TAKEN IN DECEMBER 1802
BY
REVD. JOHN SKINNER
1802
62
1740
I give this Vol. of my Anglesea Tour with my other Journals, to the
British Museum to be retained by them according to the directions I have
left in my will respecting the disposal of my MSS.
(fol. 22)
TEN DAYS’ TOUR THE
ISLE OF ANGLESEA
ANNO 1802
THURSDAY, DECEMBER 2
WE left Capel Cerig early this morning on horseback with the design of
examining the Celtic remains in the Isle of Anglesea the Harper of the
inn accompanying us in the capacity of interpreter. After a ride of
fifteen miles along the vale of Nantffrancon by Lord Penrhyn’s quarries
we came to Moel-don ferry about eleven o’clock when returning our horses
by a boy (fol. 22_a_) (previously sent forward for the purpose from Capel
Cerig) we proceeded as pedestrians. Our passage across the Menai
savoured somewhat of quixottism for the ferry boat being on the other
side waiting for passengers we were unable to brook the delay so taking
possession of a fisherman’s skiff lying on the beach we rowed to the
Island pursuing nearly the same track as the Romans seventeen hundred
years ago under the command of Paulinus Suetonius which event is so
particularly described by Tacitus.
[Picture: No. 1. Plâs Goch, December 2]
[Picture: No. 2. Sketch]
On our landing we immediately made the necessary enquiries at a public
house for the route we were to pursue and found the places we had noted
down lay so wide asunder it would be impossible to comprehend them in the
course of the day. We accordingly determined on making that our sleeping
place and after a slight meal (fol. 24) took the road across the fields
to Llanidan. In our way passed an ancient mansion called Plâs Goch
apparently built in the time of Elizabeth. A little way beyond the house
is a natural barrier of rock rising abruptly above the level ground and
extending almost the whole way to Porthamel the distance of half a mile.
Near this place in a meadow the Romans are supposed to have formed their
ranks immediately on landing and the field to this day retains the name
of Pant y scraffie, or the place of the passage boats. At low tides the
channel is not above three or four feet deep so that it might easily have
been crossed by the cavalry in the manner described by the Historian and
the natural barrier before mentioned being so contiguous, it is not at
all improbable that it was the first post occupied by the Romans under
Paulinus Suetonius on their invasion of the island 1740 years ago.
“Igitur Monam insulam, incolis validam et receptaculum perfugarum adgredi
parat, navesque fabricatur plano alveo adversus breve litus (flat
bottomed boats to pass over the shallows) et incertum—sic pedes—(the
infantry thus passed over) equites vado secuti aut altiores inter undas
adnantes equis tramisere.” The cavalry followed the infantry, and by
fording and swimming over the deeper channels arrived at the opposite
side. Tac. Ann. lib. 14, c. 29. A few minutes’ walk brought us to
Llanidan church, which seems superior to (fol. 24_a_) the generality of
Welsh buildings of the kind having a double roof and two bells in the
clochti or belfry. A large irregular built mansion {11a} belonging to
Mr. Williams who has acquired such immense property in the Pary’s Mines
stands close to it. From Llanidan we took the road to Bryn Shenkin half
a mile beyond. It is where Mr. Roland supposes the Britons formerly had
a town but now every trace is lost. Having procured a lad well
acquainted with the neighbourhood to conduct us by the nearest route we
quickly proceeded to Blochti half a mile further to the north-west. {11b}
At this place on a steep bank or rather ridge of rock (a quarry being now
worked beneath) we traced the foundations of four or five circular
buildings in a line close to each other each measuring nearly seven yards
in diameter. The same gentleman Mr. Rowland describes these as the
remains (fol. 26) of British habitations and his opinion seems to be
confirmed by some others of a similar form lying in a meadow called
Tan-ben-y-cefn not two hundred yards from the spot. These latter are
surrounded by two quadrangular earthworks the larger fifty yards by forty
containing four of these circular foundations the smaller (forty yards by
thirty) only two. It is not improbable that some of the Roman soldiers
might have occupied this spot after driving the inhabitants from their
possessions and that the earth works were thrown up by them by way of
security.
[Picture: No. 3. Druidical Stone standing near a Cottage called Bryn
Gwyn]
Crossing a barren marshy heath we saw the banks of a circular work
probably formed for the same purpose as that we before noticed at
Caerleon and I presume was a gymnasium or place of exercise (the country
people indeed have an idea it was a fortification as our guide informed
us it still goes by the name of the Castle. {13a} Whatever it was it
does not appear to have been at all connected with the Druidical worship
(fol. 26_a_) as Mr. Rowland supposes). The mound encompassing the area
may be from ten to fifteen feet in height the diameter of the circle
sixty yards. This measurement I believe is nearly accurate but part of
the circle having been destroyed in order to form a cart road makes it
more difficult to determine with certainty. On enquiring for some
ancient stones noticed by Mr. Roland at a place called Bryn Gwyn we were
directed to one standing near a cottage a quarter of a mile to the
north-west {13b} of the circus. It was of a lozenge form measuring above
three yards in height and two in width. We observed none of equal
dimensions near at hand but in a field at the back of the cottage there
were six each about a yard high placed three and three at equal distances
so as to form two exact triangles. From hence we proceeded along higher
ground to a farm house called (fol. 29) Tref Drw (Druids town) where some
of that venerable order are said to have resided. Now the name alone
records the circumstance to posterity as there is nothing remaining which
can be attributed to so remote a period. But not far distant we were
directed to a quadrangular earth work thrown up on marshy ground near the
brook (or as it is termed by the inhabitants the river Briant). {14a}
The outer mound {14b} measures fifty yards by forty and is about five
feet in height the trench 12 feet wide. Near the centre of the enclosure
we noticed the foundation of another of the circular huts above mentioned
and in an angle to the south east appearances of walls and buildings.
The course of the river must have altered considerably in aftertimes
otherwise the Romans would hardly have chosen so damp a spot even for a
temporary encampment. Still continuing in a northerly direction and
leaping over the river Briant we regained the higher ground near (fol.
29_a_) Bodower {15a} house which is at present occupied by a farmer who
rents the property of Lord Boston. Here we were gratified by the sight
of a very perfect chromlech standing in a field to the N.W. {15b} of the
house. The upper stone terminates in a ridge like the roof of a building
and measures seven feet four inches long three feet deep and four wide:
this is sustained by three supporters each three feet in height & nearly
the same in thickness. That cromlechs were not always used (if they were
at all) as altars for sacrifice I think may be demonstrated by the one
before us (as its Pyramidical form is by no means adapted to the purpose.
Indeed there is a tradition amongst the Welsh that this rude memorial was
erected over the grave of a British princess named Bronwen who flourished
in the year of the world 3105!!!!). My sketches being finished we
hastened on hoping to reach Mafyrian {16a} a mile and a half further
before the evening closed in but owing to a mistake of the guide’s we
lost our way and wandered about until it grew quite dark. Our
disappointment however was in some respect alleviated (fol. 32) by the
intelligence we received of some Roman coins in possession of a person at
Tre Evan {16b} a cottage we were to pass on our return. The moon having
by this time risen above the horizon we had a pleasant walk to Tre Evan
and entering the door made known the purport of our visit to the good
lady of the house who readily acknowledged she once had a great many bits
of brass money but thinking them of no value had given them her children
to play with. On our anxious request through our interpreter for a more
exact scruitiny in this important concern she began rumaging a little
cupboard and at length produced a counterfeit shilling of William the
third which she said was all that she retained of any money. This was a
mortifying termination to our suspence as we were in hope a few (fol.
32_a_) might have escaped the general dispertion. On enquiring how the
brass coins came into her possession she informed us that about six years
ago whilst a labourer was building a wall round a field near her house he
took materials for the purpose from the foundations of some circular
buildings (similar to those at Blochti) in one of which he discovered a
millstone containing in the cavity at the centre about two quarts of
brass coins. He also dug up a smaller millstone which she still retained
in her cottage. On producing it I found it of a close texture and tho’
only ten inches in diameter weighing twenty-six pounds. This probably
belonged to a hand mill as it seems to resemble those I noticed in my
excursion along the Roman wall. By the way the circumstance of finding
these coins hid in the foundation of a circular building sufficiently
proves that the Romans occupied the premises after the Britons had
quitted them. We returned at seven o’clock to Moel-don and supped in
company with a young clergyman just appointed to the curacy of the
parish. He proved an agreeable companion and gave us some interesting
(fol. 33) information regarding the new regulations at Oxford. On
retiring to our sleeping apartments we found them altogether the most
homely I ever occupied. However as we had made up our minds not to
quarrel with trivial difficulties we resigned ourselves to our lot
without murmuring and sleep soon veiled all in oblivion.
[Picture: No. 4. Sketch]
[Picture: No. 6. Side view of Bodowyr Cromlech]
[Picture: No. 7. End view of Bodowyr Cromlech]
FRIDAY, DECR. 3
We were up early this morning but it rained so fast we could not leave
the house till ten. I employed the interval in copying a map of the
Island on a large scale which is to be filled up as we proceed.
Accompanied by our new acquaintance we first visited Llanedwyn {17}
church where he officiates for the first time next Sunday. The church
yard and a great part of the parish has lately been enclosed by Lord
Uxbridge’s park walls and we were not a little surprized to find a (fol.
33_a_) porter’s lodge and a locked gate on the church road.
In the church yard is a flat stone with a Latin inscription to Rowlands
the antiquarian who held this living with Llanidan for many years. We
found by the date that he died in one thousand seven hundred and
twenty-seven.
What is very extraordinary for the author of such a book as _Mona
Antiqua_ we were told he was never above once out of the Island in his
life.
[Picture: No. 8. Carnedd in Lord Uxbridge’s Park, North Side]
Llanedwyn church is said by this gentleman to have been originally
founded by Edwen neice or daughter to king Edwin anno domini six hundred
and four though none of the present building we presume can boast of that
antiquity it being formed after the present model of Welsh churches. Yet
it retains its bason for holy water, its modern crosses, and a curious
inscription cut on the back of one of the pews, the letters running in a
circle with I. H. S. in the centre. I believe the inscription is Welsh:
the character (fol. 38) apparently that made use of in the time of Henry
the seventh. From hence we pursued our walk across the park towards Lord
Uxbridge’s house stopping in the way to examine a very large Carnedd {18}
or artificial hillock formed of loose stones but now overgrown with turf
and trees. This remain is one of the most considerable in the island
measuring one hundred and thirty-four paces in circumference. On walking
round it we observed a square opening on the south side which I entered
on my hands and knees and found it about ten feet long, four wide and
three high, the sides formed of three large flat stones placed edgeways
in the ground supporting the roof which consists of only two. I have
endeavoured to be as exact as I could in my drawings of this cistfaen
(which without doubt it was) and employed as the grave of some
considerable personage (folio 38_a_) in ancient times though Mr. Rowlands
appropriates the carnedd to a very different use and connects it with the
religion of the Druids. In his time three skeletons were discovered in
digging near the surface of the carnedd which gave him an idea of its
being a place of sacrifice but he had never an opportunity of viewing the
interior (the opening having been discovered within these few years) he
was unable to speak with certainty on the subject. This was certainly
the mode of sepulture among the Britons, and northern invaders before the
introduction of Christianity, and many of the open parts of England
especially Wiltshire & Dorsetshire abound in them, there they are
denomenated barrows, in Derbyshire & the northern counties they are
called lows. The term carnedd implies a heap of stones.
[Picture: No. 9. South Side and Entrance of the Carnedd]
[Picture: No. 10. Ground Plan of the Cisfaen within the Carnedd]
[Picture: No. 11. Interior of the Cisfaen, the Right-hand Side on
Entering]
[Picture: No. 12. Cromlech in Lord Uxbridge’s Park]
From hence we proceeded to look at a very large cromlech {20} or
Druidical altar preserved in the Park near his lordship’s stables. In
our way there we passed in front of the house a vast pile of building
designed by Wyatt and recently fitted up with every elegance of modern
refinement but as the family (fol. 41) were at home we could not visit
the interiour. However I made a drawing of the cromlech which is nearly
four yards long and above a yard thick, the supporters at the north end
nearly five feet high a smaller stone lying close to the other extremity
measuring three feet long and two and a half thick has also its small
supporters and is to all appearance intended as a separate cromlech. A
large tree spreading its branches over the moss grown stone and the
venerable wood sheltering the park are still very impressive and give
some idea of the enthusiasm these objects were capable of inspiring when
connected with superstition. The stables, not far distant from the spot
are built in a style of gothic architecture resembling an extensive
monastery, the pampered and lazy steeds within their stalls may be
considered as no inapt emblem of the former (fol. 41_a_) inhabitants of
such kind of edifices. From hence we walked to a modern villa situated
in another part of the grounds called Fort Cæsar built by Colonel Peacock
about 20 years since, but on Lord Uxbridge’s purchasing the Colonel’s
estate it was enclosed within that park, as is also a more ancient
mansion called Plâs Llanedwyn besides many farm houses and cottages. The
park wall has not long since been erected, it is built of stone ten feet
high and extends nearly four miles in length.
[Picture: No. 5]
Returning to Llanedwyn church we proceeded in company with Mr. Hughes of
Plâs Goch towards Bryn Gwiderin. In our way thither he engaged a young
man well acquainted with the country to conduct us to those places we had
marked out in our list for the day. Bryn Gwiderin {22a} is a natural
ledge of rock resembling what we before noticed at Plâs Goch running for
upwards of two miles towards Bryn Shenkin {22b} the (fol. 43) Beaumaris
road being formed on the summit. The Romans are supposed to have fixed
upon this spot as their principal station in the Island though the shape
of the fortress {23} differs from their usual form being a semicircle
ninety yards across defended by a triple trench to the southward and to
the north by the natural barrier above mentioned. I was anxious to see
whether the walls had been constructed with cement as in the more
finished works of the Romans but could gain no information on the subject
having nothing with us to clear away the rubbish from the surface. On
asking the guide whether they had ever discovered any copper coins, he
said oh yes he had some in his possession and off he ran like a dart to
his cottage nearly half a mile distant. We waited his return hoping at
length our wishes would be gratified in this respect when lo! instead of
coins bearing the effigies of the Cæsars he produced a handful of (fol.
43_a_) rough copper ore, on explaining to him what we wanted saying they
resembled a piece of money he said he had one of that kind also of silver
which he picked up a short time since in a field near home whither he
returned with equal alacrity to procure it and shortly made his
appearance with a shilling of Elizabeth’s!!! So much for coins. There
seems to be a fatality against my collecting any. In my excursion along
the Roman Wall I heard of many but could obtain none. Those I procured
at Caerwent are unfortunately lost many have certainly been dug up in
these parts but either lost or disposed of. We continued our progress
from Bryn Gwyderin in a northerly direction towards Mafyrian the distance
of two miles over heaths & bogs. At this place we expected to meet with
some Druidical remains noticed by Mr. Rowlands but they have all been
cleared (fol. 45) away since his time. At Bodlew we experienced a
similar disappointment. We therefore proceeded towards Llanddeiniol
church in expectation of seeing some painted glass said to have been
presented by the notorious Judge Jeffries whose family formerly resided
here but nothing of the kind was to be seen or indeed anything else for
never was I in so dark or dismal a place. But in this parish we were
fully recompensed for all our former disappointments by the sight of the
Carnedd at Bryn Celli.
[Picture: Bryn Celli Ddu Cromlech]
Accompanied by a young farmer who procured a lanthorn for the purpose we
walked nearly a mile to the south east of the church to the spot where in
Mr. Rowlands’ time there were two carnedds remaining having two rude
stone pillars placed between them but these stones have been employed for
the purpose of building a wall near this place as well as a great part
(fol. 45_a_) of the western carnedd which is nearly destroyed for the
same purpose about twenty years ago when the labourers when digging
towards the center discovered a flat pan about ten inches overturned
bottom upwards and under it a wedge of gold as they pretend the size of
the heater of an iron with a piece of wire passing through the smaller
end of it. The father of the young man who was with us happened to be
one of the workmen employed at the time, but as what they found was
immediately taken by Colonel Peacock the proprietor of the ground the man
could give no further account of the circumstance. I should imagine that
what they called the wedge of gold was no other than one of the brazen
celts or sacrificial instruments used in former times which have been
discovered in great numbers in Cornwall and (fol. 46) other parts of the
kingdom. Whilst a farmer was removing some of the stones from the north
east side of the larger carnedd to employ them in his repairs he came to
the mouth of a passage covered with a square stone similar to that at
Plâs Newydd, anxious to reap the fruits of his discovery he procured a
light and crept forward on his hands and knees along the dreary vault,
when lo! in a chamber at the further end a figure in white seemed to
forbid his approach. The poor man had scarcely power sufficient to crawl
backwards out of this den of spirits as he imagined however in the course
of a few days instigated by the hopes of riches and the presence of many
assistants he made his second _entré_ into the cavern and finding the
white gentleman did not offer to stir he boldly went (fol. 46_a_) forward
and discovered the object of his apprehensions was no other than a stone
pillar about six feet in height standing in the centre of the chamber.
His former consternation could now only be exceeded by his eagerness to
see what was contained beneath the stone which he shortly overturned but
treasure there was none, some large human bones lying near the pillar
sufficiently testifying the purpose for which the structure was intended.
This is the substance of the account we received from the young man whose
father was one of Colonel Peacock’s labourers and on the premises at the
time of the discovery. The superstition of the common people still
suppose this to be the habitation of spirits.
Our two conductors seeming rather to compliment each other about
precedence I took the lanthorn and crawling for about twelve feet along
(fol. 47) a narrow passage got into a more capacious chamber, my
companions followed close at my heels and we assembled to the number of
six in this singular sepulchre. The passage by which we entered is about
three feet high and a little more in breadth and was formed like that we
noticed at Plâs Newydd with flat stones stuck endways and covered with
others of still greater magnitude laid across. I have still my doubts
that if the former was further explored it might terminate in a similar
vault to what we are now speaking of. The height of the chamber is nine
feet, its form nearly triangular some of the sides being about three
yards long and four or five feet high. The intermediate space up to the
roof is filled with stones placed one above the other in the manner they
build walls but without any kind of cement. Two prodigious flat stones
covered the whole one about three yards in length and two in breadth
(fol. 47_a_) the other not quite so large. These are of a gritty
substance not like any stone found in the vicinity. The pillar still
lying in the cavern is a kind of freestone and seems to have been rounded
by the tool. On examining more minutely this singular structure we were
not a little annoyed by a tribe of immense spiders who have reigned here
unmolested for ages the cones containing their young ones suspended from
different parts of the roof nearly as large as those of silk worms.
I suppose we were in this mansion of the dead half an hour and on
regaining the open air found the evening shut in, and the gloom still
heightened by a heavy rain which accompanied us the whole way to Moel-don
where we arrived very wet to a late dinner and went early to bed.
(Fol. 48) SATURDAY, DECR. 4
We were up as soon as it was light this morning and having taken leave of
our new acquaintance who seems destined to vegetate on sixty pounds per
annum with the charge of three churches and a wife into the bargain, we
proceeded along the shore of the Menai to Llanidan. In our way observed
more particularly Pant y scraffie the meadow where the Romans are
supposed to have effected their landing. Mr. Rowland with some
probability derives y scraffie from the Latin word scaphae a kind of flat
boats or skiffs best adapted for a shallow coast. We stopped a few
minutes at Llanidan to look at the inside of the church. Mr. Williams
senior, who died last week at Bath is expected to be interred here. Like
Sir Benjamin Hamet and Mr. Allen though sprung from a mean origin he
(fol. 48_a_) acquired a princely fortune having been first agent and then
afterwards partner in that lucrative concern the Parys mine. I took a
drawing of Llanidan church and afterwards copied an inscription in the
church yard bearing date 1640 the character differs from most others of
the same period. The interior of the building has little to attract
notice but Russell copied the following inscription to a Mr. Fitz Gerald
who appears to have been resident at the old mansion at Bodowyr in the
beginning of the last century. Some arms of a prior date let into the
wall near the communion table are I believe the same as those placed over
the entrance door of the house. “Here lyeth Price Fitz Gerald of Bodowir
Gent. son of Edmund Fitz Gerald Gent. and Mary Price who died April xii
MDCCIX being lineally descended from Gerard Oge of Rathrown who was (fol.
51) descended from Mac Thomas a younger son of the Earl of Kildare in
Ireland aet xxxiv. iv. M 8 R I P.” The lad who had been our conductor
yesterday still accompanied us and I confess I was not a little pleased
with his disinterested attention. We took nearly the same route we had
done before from Bryn Shenkin to Blochti in order to see a cromlech {28}
called Maen Llhwyd, not having been able to procure any intelligence
respecting it when here the other day.
[Picture: Llanidan Church]
The cap stone and its three supporters remain still on the spot but have
long since been thrown prostrate on the ground. If I remember right Mr.
Rowlands speaks of it as a demolished cromlech in his time. The cap
stone is nearly circular measuring about two yards and a half in diameter
and a yard in thickness. The two supporters lying near it are about two
yards each in length, the third we could not take the dimensions of (fol.
51_a_) because the cap stone had fallen over it.
[Picture: No. 16. Inscriptions at Llanidan]
From Maen Llhwyd we took the direction to Bodowyr which gave us an
opportunity of seeing Tre Fwry the field in which the Roman coins were
dug up. Four or five circular buildings may here be traced close to the
brook Briant.
[Picture: No. 17. Maen Llhwyd, a demolished Cromlech near Blochty]
I believe that most of the stones that form the wall round the field were
taken from this spot. Having taken a rough sketch of the place we
proceeded on to Bodowyr. In a stubble field rather to the westward of
the house we noticed some foundations of buildings covering about an acre
of ground. The country people have a tradition that a large town once
stood here but so many of the stones have been removed to clear the
ground it is impossible to form any idea respecting it.
Proceeding across the fields for three {30a} miles to the north west we
came to a farm house called Fron Dûg {30b} where we had been directed to
enquire for a stone (fol. 54) with an inscription now employed as a
gatepost on the premises. We soon found the spot and we endeavoured to
trace the rude characters with as much care as possible. I imagine the
stone was intended for a boundary and that the VI and the letters
underneath refer to some measurement of property. The other part I think
is more intelligible and thus read Mad. Filius Lluricini erexit hunc
lapidem.
[Picture: No. 18. Stone near Frondûg, 5 ft. in height]
[Picture: No. 19. Llancadwaladr Church]
[Picture: No. 21. Ancient Characters over the Doorway at Llancadwaladr
Church]
The farmer living on the spot gave a curious account of the stone having
once been taken away to be employed in building a limekiln by a person in
the neighbourhood but he added with great earnestness that nothing
succeeded with him till he had again restored it to its place. It now
forms a gate post though the gate is hung on the opposite side of the
way. We here separated from the good natured lad who had attended us so
many miles and finding him superior to any pecuniary recompence I gave
(fol. 54_a_) him a silk handkerchief from my neck which he says he shall
keep as long as he lives. Before he left us he made interest at a farm
house for horses to carry us over Malltreath {32a} a swampy flat covered
by the sea at high tides. However we passed without difficulty pushing
straight forwards towards a village church called Treasdreath {32b} and
passed a large stone called Maen hîr. From hence leaving Mr. Meyrick’s
house a large mansion to the left we made the best of our way to
Llancadwaladr church about two miles distant. We had noted down this
place from Mr. Rowlands on account of an ancient inscription placed there
by Cadwalader last king of the Britons to commemorate Catamanus or
Catwallon his grandfather. The characters are very deeply cut on a stone
above four feet long forming the lintern to the doorway of the church and
is read Catamanus Rex sapientissimus opinatissimus omnium (fol. 58)
regum. This Cadfan or Catamanus according to Mr. Rowlands was chosen
King of the Britons anno six hundred and thirteen and is said to have
been buried in the Isle of Bardsey but in Sir John Wynne’s pedigree we
find an account of a Cadwallader of a much later date he being brother of
Owen Gwynnedd stiled king of Wales. Whether this was the person who
founded the church or whether it was built as Mr. Rowlands says prior to
that period the Welsh historians must determine. I only hint this
because I found nothing in the structure of the building to corroborate
so remote an antiquity as the chief window to the east appears to be
about the time of Henry the seventh or eighth and on it is some painted
glass in the characters of that age (fol. 58_a_). A chapel attached to
the north side of the church was built anno sixteen hundred sixty six by
dame Owen as we learnt by the following inscription over the doorway.
This chapel was built by Anne Owen widdowe, daughter and inheretrix of
Richard Williams of Llasdûlas {34} Esqre according to the direction of
her deare husband Hugh Owen Esqre sixteen hundred sixty one. Under some
arms painted on the glass of the chapel was, appointed by her deare
husband Hugh Owen sonne and heir of Will Owen of Bodowen Esqre and
erected by his dear wife Anne.
[Picture: No. 20. Doorway at Llancadwaladr Church with an Inscription to
the Memory of Hugh Owen, Esq.]
Under a monument erected against the east wall of the church where a
knight in armour and a lady are kneeling before an altar are the
following curious lines containing more of loyalty than poesy (fol. 59)—
To the memory of Hugh Owen Esqre of Bodowen who died the twenty first
of October sixteen hundred fifty nine.
Religion, learning, friends, poor have lost
A noble patron who maintained them at his cost
His country’s patriot most firme to loyalty
And for being loyal suffer’d infinitely
With foes would not cologue nor his prince betray
But livde his faithful subject every day.
This monument was made by Anne his beloved wife the daughter and
inheritrix of Richard Williams of Llasdûlas Esqre in memory of her
deare husband sixteen hundred sixty.
Mr. Meyricke the owner of Bodowen is first repairing his family chapel on
the opposite side. The original edifice as appears by a stone lying in
the church was built by Richard Meyricke Esqre anno sixteen hundred forty
(fol. 59_a_) and the vault underneath by his great grandson Owen Meyricke
Esqre seventeen hundred thirty. The evening was closing in fast before
we had finished our observations at Llancadwaladr.
A dreary walk of two miles over the sands to Aberffraw was rendered still
more disagreeable by an incessant and heavy rain and we had no small
degree of anxiety the whole of our walk lest we should be still more
unfortunate in not gaining admittance at the public house as we
understood that a number of Westleans with Mr. Charles at their head were
to have a meeting the following day in the village. However on our
arrival at the house we found a good welcome and much better quarters
than we had reason to expect. After a comfortable supper of boiled
rabbit we retired to rest.
(fol. 61) SUNDAY, DECR. 5
[Picture: No. 22. Cromlech at Henblas]
[Picture: No. 23. Cerigainwyn Church]
This morning after breakfast the weather being tolerably fair we walked
to Henblâs in the parish of Llangristiolus in expectation of seeing a
cromlech mentioned in our list. In our way thither we skirted a lake
{36a} about two miles in circumference and noticed large flocks of wild
ducks and other acquatic birds near the shore but on our approach they
swam immediately to the middle of the water. About a mile and a half
beyond we passed a large house called Trefyla {36b} belonging to Mr.
Evans and at Henblâs another the property of his sister but at present
only tenanted by a gardener who accompanied us over the fields to the
object we came in search of. We here found three immense stones two of
them above fifteen feet high and nearly the same in width standing
upright in the ground, another of a (fol. 61_a_) flatter form leant
against them. I cannot imagine there is anything artificial in the
arrangements of these ponderous bodies but that their position is the one
they were placed in by the hand of nature. Whether they ever were or
were not employed by the Druids I do not pretend to determine. And here
we may observe the word cromlech is applied by the Welsh indiscriminately
to stones either natural or artificial if they are only found inclining
in such a direction that there is a hollow underneath. The largest stone
in the pass of Llanberis which not many years ago rolled from the heights
above obtains the name of cromlech vawr and the same may be observed in
many other instances. On returning from this spot the gardener who
seemed to be an intelligent man pointed to a rising ground to the
southward about two miles off which he said was called (fol. 62) Ester
{37} mon eglwr where are still to be traced the foundations of an ancient
fortress and tradition says a lofty watch tower once stood on this
eminence commanding the circumference of the Island. From hence a
causeway ran across the low ground towards a large carnedd wherein were
discovered many human bones. Not far from hence he himself picked up a
piece of silver coin which he had given to a lady in the neighbourhood.
As we had received intelligence of some old characters cut in the wall of
Cerigainwyn {38} Church we walked thither and were glad to find something
better worthy of notice than the cromlech we had quitted for here are
still visible some large Saxon characters cut very deep in the stone of
the clochti or belfry. In order to transcribe them more perfectly I
procured a ladder and mounted aloft but this (fol. 62_a_) enterprize was
attended with no small difficulty for being obliged to employ both hands
while sketching and the ladder lying very slanting I could only depend
upon the toes of my boots for support against the wall. Whilst thus
situated there came on a violent storm of sleet and hail which so
benumbed my hands I hurried the business more than I otherwise should
have done but still I think I have the drawing pretty exact. These rude
Saxon characters appear to be coeval with the building and probably were
designed to perpetuate the name of its founder and the date of the
foundation but when the original edifice grew to decay they were taken
out of their original order and placed just as they happened to come into
use in the building the clochti so that many of the letters are lost or
inverted. I think I am authorized to make this conjecture by the (fol.
69) present appearance of the U and the S which are evidently reversed.
Other letters are also wanting to make good the inscription. The font
within the church is without doubt equally ancient as it retains the
Runic lines and ornaments which were used among the northern nations of
the sixth and seventh century. Of this I made three drawings. The clerk
a surly Jewish looking fellow seemed at first inclined to be very
impudent, but I did not neglect to fee him for the same reason the Angel
did the Miser in Parnell’s beautiful poem of the Hermit namely to make
him more civil and attentive to other travellers should curiosity ever
lead them to this spot. The clouds now gathering round us and everything
seeming to portend bad weather we made the best of our way to Aberffraw
having altogether walked twelve miles.
[Picture: No. 24. Clochty at Caregainwin Church]
[Picture: No. 25. South Side of the Clocty at Caregainwen Church]
[Picture: No. 26. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]
[Picture: No. 27. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]
[Picture: No. 28. Ancient Font at Carigainwin Church]
(fol. 69_a_) MONDAY, DECR. 6
[Picture: No. 29. [Arch in Aberffraw Church.]]
We found there was so much to be seen in the neighbourhood of Aberffraw
that we determined on prolonging our stay for another day at our present
station. About nine attended by the same person who went with us
yesterday we walked to the parish church which outwardly resembles other
Welsh buildings of the kind but on entering we observed a neat turned
Saxon arch to the west end underneath the clochti an evident token that
this part of the building was of a more ancient date and most likely
erected during the times the Saxons held the Island which was for above a
century. Aberffraw afterwards became the residence of the North Welsh
princes and we may suppose it was a place of the greatest consequence in
the Island though now it scarcely deserves the title of a village.
[Picture: No. 31. Interior of Llangwyfan Church]
(fol. 73) Not far from the church they point out a field where the
palace of Llewelyn stood but no traces remain the ground having been
cleared quite to the foundation. Proceeding in a northwesterly direction
for a mile and a half we came to the little church of Llangwyfan. This
is erected on a rocky peninsula jutting out into the sea and is an Island
at high water so that not unfrequently the congregation are interrupted
in their devotion by the rapid approach of the waves. From its exposed
situation to the weather and from the spray of the sea beating against
its walls the stones in parts are fretted like a honeycomb which gives it
a most venerable appearance though from the shape of the windows at the
east end I should not suppose it was above four centuries standing.
Whilst I was sketching the font and part of the interior Russell copied a
curious (fol. 73_a_) epitaph to the memory of Mr. Woode written about the
year sixteen hundred two an age remarkable for its false wit and punning
indeed must have been very prevalent to have found its way to so remote a
quarter as this. Inscribed on a brass plate let into a stone slab is the
following epitaph:
Felix ter felix marmor quia nobile lignum
Quo caret infelix insula marmor habes
Owen et patriae vivens fuit utile lignum
Et lignum vitae post sua fata Deo
Filius ista meo posui monumenta parenti
Sic precor et tecum nomen [et] Owen idem
In obitum Oweni Woode armigeri qui
Obiit 6 die April A° Dni 1602 Ætat 70.
[Picture: No. 32]
(fol. 76) In our way back we collected some beautiful specimens of sea
weed and a few shells and passing by a large mansion {44a} house the
former habitation of this Mr. Woode but now rented of Mr. Meyricke by a
farmer we walked a mile farther to Mynnedd {44b} Cnwc having understood
there was a cromlech to be seen there.
[Picture: No. 33. Remains of a Carnedd at Mynydd-y-Cnwc]
Mŷnnedd Cnwc is a promontory running two or three hundred yards into the
sea and forming the northern boundary of a small bay called Port Tre
Castel to the south of which on a semicircular rock about fifty yards
over jutting into the bay we observed a deep trench and mound cut towards
the land side and a square earth work of smaller dimensions a little
beyond this doubtless was the work of invaders on their first landing.
Instead of a cromlech at Mŷnnedd Cnwc we found the vestiges of a large
carnedd many of the flat stones of the cist faen or chamber are still
remaining but the small ones have been almost all removed to build a wall
close at hand. (fol. 77_a_) On another fork of the peninsula about an
hundred yards distant we observed the traces of another carnedd of much
smaller dimensions. From the nature of their situation, the bay, the
earth work &c. it is not improbable to suppose that an engagement here
took place with the natives wherein some principal officers were slain
and interred on the spot. A natural cavern in the rock penetrates for
some distance in the peninsula but it being high tide we could not
satisfy our curiosity in examining it. The country people have a strange
idea of spirits haunting these carnedds and frequently see lights (Ignis
fatuus) hovering round the point. They moreover report that an iron boot
was dug up not long ago full of money but on further enquiry the money
vanished and so did the boot too. By the description of a man who had
seen it I believe it was no other than a gambado belonging to Mr. Woode
or some of his descendants.
[Picture: No. 34. Caer Cromlech in the Parish of Llanfaelog]
(fol. 80) Hence continuing our walk to the northward we passed through
the parish of Llanfaelog and about half a mile beyond the church came to
a very perfect cromlech. {46} The cap stone is rather of an oblong shape
and measured sixteen feet long, six wide, and three thick. It only
rested upon three supporters each about three feet high although there
were four placed in the ground. Near the cromlech were lying two large
stones, the one seventeen feet long and three thick. Having made two
drawings on the spot we were invited by a country woman to take some
refreshment at her house, and whilst she went forward to prepare for our
reception we walked about half a mile further towards the river Crighill
{47a} to see another cromlech. {47b} This stood on low ground quite in a
swamp the cap stone like that at Maen Llhwyd has been thrown down and its
supporters lie near it. Also many other stones from three to five feet
long to the number of thirty lie (fol. 80_a_) scattered in all directions
around it. Having hastily sketched this remain we followed the direction
of a person who persuaded us there were some very ancient letters on a
stone placed in a wall about an hundred yards distant. Above a quarter
of an hour was employed to no purpose in the search. At length assisted
by some men who came from a neighbouring field whose zeal in the business
was augmented by the promise of a shilling we discovered the valuable
antique which had been employed as a land mark and traced the letters o.
w. one thousand six hundred and sixty four very legibly on the surface.
[Picture: No. 36. Demolished Cromlech near the River Crighyll]
How many hundreds would have laughed at the distress of the young
antiquarians on this occasion but as the more learned of that venerable
society are continually exposed to similar or greater mistakes we must
find shelter from the shafts of ridicule under the shade of (fol. 82)
their protecting wings. At the farm house we found some white bread and
cheese and butter milk placed on a clean cloth waiting our arrival and
returning many thanks to our kind entertainer who was as pretty as she
was obliging we took our leave and proceeded towards a barn in the
neighbourhood where with the assistance of a lanthorn I traced the
characters NALIS deeply cut in a stone now serving as the lintern to a
small window but said to have been taken from a field near the spot. I
think these characters are Roman as the style of the L cut obliquely much
resembles what I have noticed on some inscriptions in the north of
England made a short time before the Romans quitted the island. Returned
to Aberffraw across a large warren apparently well stocked with rabbits.
They are sold in these parts for fourpence apiece, fowls are also equally
cheap, so that with the assistance of fish the inhabitants can fare very
luxuriantly without butcher’s meat. A farmer overtook (fol. 82_a_) and
accompanied us to Aberffraw. In the course of conversation he said it
was this day seventeen years being the Carnarvon fair on which the
passage boat was lost and eighty people perished in the Menai most of
whom were inhabitants of the island by which sad catastrophy nearly every
family had to lament the loss of some relative.
In the evening we received a visit from Mr. Rowlands curate of Aberffraw,
on enquiring of him what was become of the various coins which had been
dug up in these parts of the island he said that most of them had been
taken to Mr. Meyricke who he was sure would be very happy in shewing them
to us, but we were so apprehensive of being detained by the weather at
this time of the year that we could not venture to spend the following
day at Aberffraw though the civility and attention we experienced from
our hostess would have been a strong inducement at a more favourable
season.
(fol. 83) TUESDAY, DECR. 7
Having paid a very reasonable bill at Aberffraw we quitted it this
morning about ten and pursued the same track we had done yesterday for
about three miles when crossing the Crighyll and traversing a bleak heath
rendered still more unpleasant by heavy storms of wind and rain we
arrived at Llanfihangle yn nhewlyn {49} expecting to find some ancient
remains in this parish. We only saw some large loose stones upon the
summit of the rocks which seem to have little claim to the interference
of the Druids to place them in their present position. On enquiring at a
cottage near this spot whether there were any carnedds or chromlechs to
be seen we exposed ourselves to the ridicule of two old women who enjoyed
a hearty laugh at our walking in the rain to hunt after stones.
[Picture: No. 37. Praesaddfed Cromleche]
[Picture: No. 39. Praesaddfed Cromleche]
Skirting two large pools of water we pursued our way to Bodedern situated
on the turnpike road about eight miles from Holyhead. This place did not
prepossess us much in its favour as it seemed to promise but sorry
accommodations (fol. 83_a_). However we were obliged to put up with them
unless we made up our minds to reach Holyhead which would have thrown us
nearly a day backward in our march. Having ordered the best the house
could afford for dinner we walked nearly a mile along the turnpike road
in the direction of Gwindy {50a} when turning off into a field to the
left we approached one of the finest and most finished cromlechs {50b} we
have yet seen in the island the cap stone measuring four yards and a half
long four yards wide and two yards thick {50c} its three supporters each
about a yard and a half high. Indeed there is a fourth nearly of the
same height but it does not touch the stone above. Under this cromlech
we were informed a whole family who had been ejected from their
habitation sought shelter during the last winter. There was another
cromlech close at hand but the cap stone had been forced down and rests
in a slanting direction against the supporters the top stone of this
measured three yards long and two yards and (fol. 87) a half wide and its
supporters nearly two yards high. An old mansion near the spot was we
understand the residence of Miss Buckley the lady who married King master
of the ceremonies at Bath. The premises seem to be very much out of
repair having been untenanted for some time. Returned about four to our
homely dinner of bacon and greens. In the evening after retracing my
sketches I took a copy of a plan that was in the room of the intended
bridge over the Menai. This if it ever is put into execution will be a
stupendous work as it will be nearly half a mile long and built pretty
strong to resist the tides. On the twenty-ninth of April 1785 a meeting
was first held for the purpose of consulting about it at St. Alban’s
tavern when the following resolutions passed: first, that the erecting a
carriage bridge over the streights of the Menai will be of great public
utility—second—that it appears from the reports and concurrent opinions
of several able engineers that the erecting a timber bridge upon piles
with three swivel bridges will not be detrimental (fol. 87_a_) to the
navigation of the said streights and therefore we approve of a bridge
being erected on that plan, third, that we will support the application
made to parliament for an act for building a bridge across the said
streights agreeable to the above plan. N. Bailey, chairman. Afterwards
follow the signature of the noblemen and gentlemen. Here we see the
first intention was to have constructed one of wood with three swivel
bridges for the convenience of vessels passing to and fro. Now according
to the present plan it is to be of stone with three center arches
sufficiently wide and high to permit a ship to pass with all her sails
set. God knows whether this plan will ever be brought to perfection but
in this mechanical age we can scarcely wonder at the projection of any
enterprize however vast or difficult. If we were not pleased with our
fare much less were we with our sleeping apartments at this place the
upper story was (fol. 89) without ceilings running clear up to the roof
being divided into stalls rather than chambers by deal boards wherein are
placed the different beds for the family and strangers. We slept in
separate beds it is true, but every word that was said, nor ought that
was done could pass unheard for all was as manifest to the ear at least
as though we had been in the same dormontory. I was unfortunately
situated, in having some snorers close to my bed head, and the deal not
being above half an inch thick I may literally say they were close at my
ear. Different kinds of music resounded from different parts of the
room. I bore all this harmonious combination of sounds with the
philosophy of a stoic till the clock struck three, when my next neighbour
played so violently on the double bass I lost all patience and began
knocking with equal violence on the partition between us. This not only
awoke him but every part of the house was soon in motion and the host got
up grumbling and swearing and called the people about him to go and (fol.
89_a_) see who it was who knocked at the door for they imagined it was
some traveller who wished to gain admittance. In the course of an hour
when the tumult was subsided I dropped asleep and was roused by our guide
whom I had ordered to call me at half past six.
WEDNESDAY, DECR. 8
We were not sorry to leave this place as soon as it was light paying much
higher for our miserable entertainment than we had done at any place in
the island. First directed our steps along the turnpike to Llandrûgan,
{53} situated near Gwindy the halfway house between Beaumaris and
Holyhead our host having given us to understand there was a very ancient
stone near the church which many travellers went to look at but few could
read the inscription. He himself among the rest although he said he was
a good schollar having been clerk of Bodedern many years could (fol. 90)
make nothing of it. On arriving at the spot we found a flat tomb stone
to the right of the entrance door bearing the following lines legibly cut
on its surface:
Reader in me doe thou thyself behold
Wilome full hie but now full low in mould
Bodychens heyr I was my name was John
The second who that sirname fixt upon
Credit nor wealth nor friends I did not lacke
Heare dead and dust loe all doe me forsake
The day draws on when God me hence shall raise
Amongst his chosen his great name to praise.
On the side nearest the church door:
Obiit apud Bodechen decimo die Junii incarnationis milessimo sexto
centessimo tricessimo nono aetatis suae septuagesimo.
On the opposite side:
Moestissima uxor Margaretta monumentum hoc delectessimo conjugi piae
memoriae amoris ergo posuit vicessimo die Martii anno milessimo
sexgentessimo quadragessimo.
Though we copied the inscription being on the spot we did not think it
deserving a digression of three miles to read especially as we had so
much to perform before night.
[Picture: No. 41. Stone in Llantrisant Parish]
Hence we hastened forward to Llantrisant not without some apprehension in
being equally deceived in an ancient inscription we learnt was to be seen
there cut on the stone {54} of a gateway. On enquiring at a farm house
we found it had been taken up from the gate and placed in a kind of shed
as a block to chop sticks on. This intelligence conveyed through our
interpreter did not quiet our fears for the fate of the inscription,
however towards the place we went and fortunately found the stone lying
with the inscription downwards (fol. 92). On the edge was engraved Aroe
lapidibus in the manner I have shewn in my sketch. Having with the
assistance of four stout fellows turned the stone I traced as nearly as I
could the characters as they appear in my drawing. The stone was of a
lozenge form about six feet high and three wide, and I conjecture was
first of all employed by the Romans as a direction across the country, as
the words Aroe lapidibus to the stones of Aroe seem to imply. The second
inscription was probably cut some centuries after in monkish times as
appears by the words moribus disciplinae et sapientiae coming together in
the conclusion of the sentence. Indeed many of the upright pillars we
have met with in the island I imagine were intended as directions or
boundaries and not at all connected with druidical worship as Mr.
Rowlands seems to suppose. The day by this time being far advanced we
exerted ourselves as much as the country would (fol. 92_a_) allow to gain
Llanbabo church four miles distant in sufficient time to copy an ancient
stone dug up here in the reign of Charles the second bearing the effigies
of Pabo post Prid or Prince Pabo the support of Britain who flourished
about the year four hundred sixty and who is said to have built and to
have been buried in this church. His effigies are designed on a flat
stone resembling free stone, the figure crowned with a sceptre in its
right hand and a close garment down to its feet. On the edge of the
stone these characters are cut hic jacet Pabo post Prid the remainder is
very much defaced but I should read it qui edificavit hanc ecclesiam.
For my own part I cannot but think that the whole of this is some ages
later than Pabo’s time as both the sculpture and the formation of the
letters are those of the thirteenth or fourteenth century. We know that
in Roman catholic countries it is very common for the priests to preserve
(fol. 95) the effigies of their founders and benefactors in their
churches and monasteries and might not this have been presented to the
church by some rich family in the neighbourhood by way of acquiring the
favour of the sainted patron. The letters here noticed very much
resemble those I have copied from the monument in Bettws y Coed church in
Carnarvonshire. I took as perfect a drawing as my time would allow and
afterwards just sketched the entrance door and three uncooth and at
present whitewashed visages let into the stone above and on each side of
it. These are of such rude workmanship that I should rather attribute
them to the time of Pabo than the subject we have just considered. A
kind of waving line over the arch of the door as described in my sketch
is I conjecture no less antique. The church itself differs in no other
respect from the generality of Welsh buildings, and the parish is so
scattered that not above two houses are to be seen in any direction.
[Picture: No. 45. Stones in Llanfechell Parish]
From hence to Llanfechell we experienced a dirty swampy and fatiguing
walk (fol. 95_a_) of four miles and the termination of it was rendered
still more unfortunate as we found the public house so indifferent we
could not think of spending the night there accordingly we hastened by
the light of the moon to examine some stones and a cromlech about half a
mile beyond leaving our interpreter who seemed to be pretty well tired of
antique hunting to eat his dinner, in the interim the host of the public
house officiating in his stead. Under his guidance we first visited
three upright stones standing on a rising ground placed three paces
asunder forming an exact triangle. They were about seven feet high and
two feet and a half wide. These I make no doubt were intended as a
direction to travellers as they might be seen from every rising hillock
in the neighbourhood and also from the coast, we could not learn that
they were called by any particular name if it had sounded anything like
aroe it would have thrown some light upon the inscription in Llantrisant
parish.
From hence passing by an old (fol. 98) mansion named cromlech now
tenanted by a farmer we came to the spot where many large stones were
lying scattered promiscuously on the ground and one nearly square
measuring nine feet across leaning against some uprights about six feet
high. From the appearance of this place I should rather imagine that it
had been the interior or cistfaen of a carnedd and this opinion seems
somewhat confirmed by the accounts of the common people who remember
great quantities of stone having been removed to form a wall. Returning
to the public house we made a meal on bread and cheese and afterwards
procuring the key of the church we examined its interior. The font is
square having a double Saxon arch rudely carved on each face. Over the
communion table is a Latin inscription to Mr. Humphreys Rector of the
parish which we transcribed:
Cineribus sacrum
H. S. E.
(fol. 98_a_) ROBERTUS HUMPHREYS M.A.
vir eruditus perquam et modestus
Rei medicae
praesertim botanicae apprime gnarus
Praxique claruit
hujus ecclesiae per tria et amplius lustra
Extitit Rector
obiit XIII id Junii anno MDCCIX
Ætatis suae LVIII
Dnus dnus Ricardus Nicom. Bulkeley pro digno qui haberet defuncto
hoc positum voluit
[Picture: Llanfechell Church; Font, Llanfechell Church]
A long five miles walk brought us to Amlwch where with some little
difficulty (the hostess not admiring our pedestrian appearance) we gained
admittance, a good supper and comfortable sleeping appartments which
indeed were not a little refreshing after (fol. 101) the labours of the
day and the adventures of the preceeding night.
THURSDAY, DECR. 9
Amlwch is a long straggling place and may contain from four to five
thousand inhabitants though before the working of the Parys mines there
were not an hundred tenements in the parish. Besides two or three good
houses a church has been lately erected by the copper company on a neat
substantial plan and a quay formed near the smelting houses where ships
of two or three hundred tons burthen may take in their lading. These we
passed in our way to Llanelian church this morning which we had been
directed to examine as one of the most curious structures in the island.
This church differs from most others in North Wales in having a kind of
spire rising from a square tower. I cannot say that this edition is very
elegant it being coated all the way up with small slate. The body of the
church is ornamented with battlements, pinnacles, and (fol. 101_a_)
buttresses in the style of our parish churches built about the time of
Henry the seventh. Having procured the key we found the interior still
retaining its catholic collection of saints and apostles, and the seats,
chancel, and communion-table, were decorated with a profusion of carving
in oak. On the latter on a kind of scroll we read non nobis Domine non
nobis sed nomine tuo. Beneath the arches which supported the roof of the
building were six grotesque little figures, playing on the bagpipe,
pibcorn, and other instruments, their appearance is rendered still more
ridiculous by their being painted in black coats, yellow waistcoats, and
white wigs. In a small chapel attached to the south east end of the
church (which is said to have been the original edifice founded by Saint
Elian) there is a kind of semicircular chest or cabinet made of oak into
which whoever can enter and turn himself round is sure in the opinion of
the vulgar to live out the year but if he fails it will (fol. 102) prove
fatal to him. People from all parts come at stated periods to try their
destiny in this absurd way. There is also an old chest well secured by
bolts bars and nails in another part of the church having a small slit in
the lid through which the country people are said to drop a piece of
money uttering their maledictions against their enemies the black
gentleman is thus feed to work evil against the offender, this
uncharitable and unchristian custom if true seems almost too bad even for
monkish times much worse to be continued now. Having viewed these relics
of superstition we ascended by a circular tower to the roof [of] the
church which is very nicely leaded. On enquiring afterwards of a Welsh
clergyman why Llanelian was so much better taken care of than other
parish churches I found that some lands had been appropriated by one of
the Welsh princes centuries ago by way of expiation for his sins to keep
it in constant repair, this accounts for its having a steeple, being
leaded, &c. &c.
[Picture: No. 46. Llanelian Church]
After sketching the building we returned (fol. 102_a_) to Amlwch, on our
way thither obtained a very clear view of the Isle of Man lying only
sixteen leagues to the north of this coast. Could we have insured a
week’s fine weather we should not have hesitated an instant including
that island in our circuit as I have long wished to satisfy myself
respecting some ancient inscriptions at Pielstown. I understand there is
almost daily communication through the herring boats which come here to
dispose of their cargoes. Having taken a slight repast at Amlwch we
proceeded to the Parys mountain which of late years has enriched not only
many individuals but the nation at large. It lies about a mile south of
the town and though denominated a mountain, in Carnarvonshire at least
would be deemed a very inconsiderable hillock. The approach to it is
dreary in the extreme for the sulphurious steams issuing from the copper
kilns have destroyed every germ of vegetation in the neighbourhood. When
we had gained (fol. 103) the higher ground the uninteresting and gloomy
prospect we had hitherto observed was at once converted into the most
lively and active scene. Hundreds of men, women, and children, appeared
busily occupied in the different branches of this vast concern and the
bustle of the metropolis prevailed amidst the dreary recesses of the
Druids. The produce of the mountain belongs to two different companies
one called the Parys Mine shared between Lord Uxbridge, Mr. Hughes, and
Mr. Williams. The other, the Mona mine I believe is Lord Uxbridge’s
alone.
Our servant having delivered a message from the people of the inn to one
of the overseers of the Parys mine, he accompanied us over the works. A
stranger not acquainted with mining concerns cannot do better than take
his first lesson at this place. There being no necessity of descending
into subterrianean abodes to grope out for information by candle light,
incommoded by damp, dirt, and foul vapours, for all is here worked open
to the day and by taking his station in one (fol. 103_a_) point he can
command a view of the whole proceedings from the beginning to the end and
receive every satisfactory explanation almost without moving from the
spot. We first were conducted to some wooden stages erected on the edge
of the bason if I may so employ that term to an immense excavation of an
oval form about two hundred yards long, half so much in width and eighty
in depth which has been hollowed out in the course of twenty years, these
wooden stages are each supplied with a windlass for the purpose of
drawing up the ore from the bottom. On looking down from hence to the
chasm beneath, we saw the rock rich with ore of a light gold colour which
the miners were busily employed in boring, blasting, breaking with sledge
hammers, wheeling the fragments to appointed places beneath the stages
filling the baskets which were hauled up as before mentioned by the
windlass. There might be from twelve to fourteen stages erected for this
purpose in different (fol. 104) parts of the mine.
As soon as the commodity is landed it is delivered to a number of women
and children to be broken into smaller pieces. The good ore is then
separated from that of an inferior sort and carried to kilns to be baked.
The sulphur forms in what is called flour brimstone by the chymists on
the top of the oven. This is afterwards collected, melted in large
cauldrons and formed into round moulds for sale.
We understood that the better kind of ore was sent to Neath and other
places, and the inferior to the smelting houses at Amlwch. In walking
round the premises we crossed a small stream running into some square
reservoirs, this water was so impregnated with copper that merely the
dipping a key in for two or three seconds rendered it entirely the colour
of that metal. The square reservoirs above mentioned was stored with all
the old iron that could be collected which are turned monthly the coperas
on them sinking in a kind (fol. 104_a_) of red slime to the bottom.
At stated times the pits are emptied and the produce when hardened
becomes equally valuable to the richest ore in the mines. We may be sure
that every drop of this precious stream is turned to the best account
possible indeed so productive is it that they compute it to be worth
above three halfpence a quart. On entering the compting house one of the
clerks sitting there obligingly gratified us with the sight of a number
of drawers full of the most beautiful specimens of minerals I ever saw
and moreover requested us to take our choice of what we most admired. We
were constrained to be very moderate on account of the weight of the
article but if we could have procured a ready carriage I fancy we should
have been rather more greedy in our selection. At it was we took nearly
five pounds’ weight of the following minerals and mixtures (fol. 105):
First. Mundig containing sulphur and iron.
2. Iron incrusted with lead chrystals.
3. Copper ore.
4. Copper ore after roasting.
5. Copper taken from the reservoir of old iron.
6. Quartz containing copper ore.
7. Zink commonly called black Jack incorporated with copper rock
holding a small quantity of lead.
8. Quartz with a little of the Zink and chrystals.
9. Pure copper.
10. Blue stone issuing from the copper rocks.
11. Sulphur.
12. Copper coming from the old iron after it is dried.
Hence we just looked into the assay house but could not see the process
the man having concluded work we also viewed the kilns and the coppers
where the sulphur is melted. Having taken a very competent survey and
complimented our obliging and intelligent conductor for his trouble in
the best manner we were able, we took a long walk for nearly five miles
to the west of Parys mountain towards Llanfechell where we heard there
was (fol. 105_a_) a prodigious large stone with writing under it to be
seen. Our conductor who was a young man of Amlwch speaking pretty good
English entertained us the whole way by a variety of ghost stories and
preternatural events the common talk of the neighbourhood. The stone we
were going to see was so big that it would sink the largest ship that
came to Amlwch. That it stood in a valley by itself resting on a flat
stone whereon a good many characters were engraved but nobody was able to
make them out but should some learned person have that good fortune the
stone would immediately move off of itself and there would be a pot of
gold to reward him for his schollarship. That a countryman living hard
by had seen the treasure three following nights in his dreams and had
spent some time in digging for it but all to no purpose for it was not
intended for him. On telling our guide he should equally (fol. 107)
share whatever we discovered it quickened our march astonishingly and I
really believe we were not above an hour in reaching the stone
notwithstanding the many impediments which crossed our way. On which we
passed an upright stone about seven feet high in the middle of a field
resembling some of those we before noticed as boundaries. Here exclaimed
Sancho a man also found a considerable treasure, although amused by his
simplicity it in some measure weakened the interest we had taken in the
object of our walk and we felt the less disappointed at finding we had
taken our ramble in vain when we arrived at the spot. For a candle being
procured at the treasure dreamer’s cottage we discovered that what they
took for letters were nothing but a few natural crevices in the rock and
that the stone itself though of some magnitude possessed no more claim to
notice than any other detached fragment lying by the road side. (fol.
107_a_) However disappointed we concealed our chagrin and even suffered
our conductor to take us half a mile out of the way to see an immense
stone which he said was called Praes Maen on account of a brass pot being
placed near it and that when the sun shone whoever could trace the shadow
at a particular time of the day would discover a great treasure in a
brass vessel. It was moonlight when we arrived at this stone which
certainly is more worthy of notice than the one we had quitted. It is
standing upright in the midst of a field and measures thirteen feet high
and fourteen and fifteen in circumference allowing four or five feet
under ground, it must have been a very heavy body and cost some trouble
to have erected it in its present position. Approaching nearer to Amlwch
we observed our quondam loquacious compation become very silent, and just
as we had passed an old wall about half a mile (fol. 108) from the town
he told us with evident marks of trepidation that there was a ghost
sitting there every night, on asking him if he had ever seen it he said
no but that many of his friends had, it was in the shape of a woman and
once had attempted to pull a farmer’s wife off her horse but was
prevented by the arrival of a second person when it vanished. That on
Christmas Eve the inhabitants of Amlwch used to come to the spot in order
to see how many lights would pass by and as many did so many persons as
travelled that road would die within the twelvemonth.
[Picture: No. 48. Ffedoged-y-Gowres]
I just mention these ridiculous stories to show that superstition still
reigns here and this superstition has perhaps been the guardian to many
of the druidical remains we noticed in the island. It was past six when
we returned to the inn where we were welcomed by a most excellent repast.
FRIDAY, DECR. 10
We could not leave the inn so soon as we intended on account (fol.
108_a_) of our boots not being ready so bad is the workmanship of the
shoemakers in Wales that the repairs of one day were destroyed by the
exertions of the next, and it was a business almost as regular as eating
our dinner when we arrived at the inn to send our boots to get mended.
Here I hope we have had them secured effectually as we ordered them to be
studded with nails according to the fashion of the country. Although on
our arrival we scarcely gained admittance at the inn as pedestrians yet
on our departure we had to pay the bill calculated for equestrians of the
first order so much had our consequence been raised by the loquacity of
our attendant in the kitchen.
This heavy blow on our finances with the loss we had sustained at
Llanfechell caused a calculation to be made which promised only three
days’ supply supposing our concerns should fall into the hands of so
experienced a scribe as the landlady at Amlwch (fol. 109). About eleven
we were clear of the inn and took the road across the fields to the small
church of Bodewryd where we understood were some remains of the Wynne
family a branch of which family was settled at a large mansion now a farm
near the spot. The church door being open we found the interior occupied
by a grey headed pedagogue and his schollars. On the pulpit were carved
the arms of the Wynne’s and the seats and communion table exhibited the
same kind of ornaments cut in oak before noticed at Llanelian. This
living was augmented by Queen Anne’s bounty and further donations as
appears engraven on a brass tablet affixed to the north side of the
altar:
M. S.
Annae Reginae serenissimae
cujus munificentia sine exemplo maximae
inter innumeras alias per magnam
(fol. 109_a_) Britanniam late sparsas
Tenuissima haec de Bodewryd ecclesia
cujus stipendium annuum xx solidos ante non exedebat
libris ducentis donata est
promovente interim pietatem hanc
et totidem libras de proprio conferente
per ultimum testamentum suum
Dat. 6to Septembris A.D. 1720
Roberto Wynne A.M. rectori de Llantrisant
Filio Johannis Wynne de Bodewryd Arm.
Sexto et natu maximo
quibus pecuniis aliquantulum auctis
Tenementa sequentia coempta
et in usum ecclesiae prædictae
In perpetuum stabilita sunt
(fol. 110) IIIº Nonas Decembris 1723
viz. Tre Evan, Clidog, Hen Aclwyd &c. &c.
Reditusque annuus 40 solidorum
De Tre Anghared in Bodedern
Com. Anglesea.
In tantae munificentiae memoriam
Tabula haec votiva suspensa est. anno 1727.
On the opposite side of the communion table on a similar tablet is
engraved the pedigree of this branch of the Wynne’s which is as follows:
In hac Ecclesia jacent
1. Rees (ap Llewellwyn, ap Griffith, ap Howell, ap Evan, ap Ednyfed
ap Howell, ap Griffith, ap Meyricke, ap Trahairn, ap Gwerydd ap Rees
Goch) uxorem habuit Agnes vch Nicholas ap Ellis Archidiaconi Monensis
filiam obiit anno Dni 1500.
(fol. 110_a_)
2. David ap Rees de Bodewryd Armiger obiit 27º Julii anno Dni 1551
uxorem habuit Anghared filiam et heredem de Plâs y Brian in parochia
de Llanbeder.
3. Hugo Gwyn ap D.D. obiit 1562 uxorem habuit Elenam Conway de Bryn
Eyrinin Com. Carnaru.
4. Edwardus ap H Gwyn sepultus fuit primo die Martii 1596 uxorem
duxit Elizabetham Sion ap Rees Bodychen.
5. Johannes Wyn Edd obiit 1614 uxorem habuit Grace vch Sion Griffith
de Llanddyfran.
6. Edwardus Wyn obiit 1637 uxorem habuit Margaretam Puleston de
Llwyn y Knottie in com. Flint.
7. Johannes Wyn obiit Jan. 30, 1669 uxorem duxit, Elenam filiam et
cohaeredem J. Lewis de Chwaen Wen arm sepultus est cum uxore filioque
natu maximo Johanne L L B in ecclesiae parochiali de Llantrissant de
quo siquis (fol. 111) ultra desideret monumentum patri suo B—M
positum impensis Roberto Wyn A.M. ejusdem ecclesiae Rectoris
dignissimi consulat.
Having finished our observations and preparing to leave the church we
were not a little surprized by a request made by the schoolmaster for
something to drink our healths, though I complied with his request I at
the same time conveyed a kind of hint that an instructor should not be
mercinary. However he pocketed the reproof with the money and I cannot
say I discerned anything of that hectic flush come across his cheek
described by Sterne in his story of the poor Monk.
Continuing from hence and passing by the magic stone which had drawn us
so much out of our way the preceeding night we called at the treasure
dreamer’s cottage as he had promised to shew us an inscription which
(fol. 111_a_) he knew to be worthy of notice as a clergyman of
Llanerchymedd had been to copy it. He was from home but his wife
catching up her half grown child in her arms walked before us at such a
rate we could scarcely keep up with her to the field where it stood. We
here found some characters and just as I was preparing to take the
impression of them with putty so violent and cold a storm of sleet and
rain came on that we were forced to take shelter at a neighbouring farm.
The farm house though of considerable extent was open all the way up to
the roof the beds, kitchen, dairy, &c. being all contiguous to each
other. This we found on enquiry was the common custom of the country.
The weather holding up a little we returned to the spot, in the interval
having learnt that the stone had some time since been broken in two in
order to make a gate post of the lower part, we procured an (fol. 113)
iron crow and with the assistance of two stout lads from the farm turned
it over, it measures about four feet in length but retains no appearance
of characters on its surface though by measuring its width we clearly
discovered that it must formerly have been united to the upper part which
is now fixed in the ground about an hundred yards distant. On returning
thither I took a very exact copy. The name of the stone is Maen Hîr
Llanol with is interpreted the large stone with letters and when entire
it must have been a conspicuous object from most parts of the island as
it stands on very high ground.
The weather continuing cold and disagreeable we hastened our march to
Llanerchymedd our intended station for the night. Although the distance
to this place in a direct line is not above four miles and its situation
clearly discerned from Maen Hîr Llanol yet on account of the bogs and
(fol. 113_a_) overflowing of the river we were obliged to make a circuit
of nearly twice that space round by Llanbabo. In our way passed a farm
called Boddeiniol where we stopped to enquire for some druidical remains
mentioned in Mr. Bingley’s list as still visible, but the farmer who is
apparently near eighty years old said he had never had heard of anything
of the kind since he had lived there. But some time back in cleaning a
piece of rough ground in one of his fields he discovered four burying
places as he took them to be the sides formed of flat stones set upright
in the ground and covered by others of the same irregular shape. Some of
the stones he shewed us lying against a fence but none of them appeared
to be above two feet and a half high. Crossed the river Trepont {71} a
little below Llanbabo. This river is styled the largest in Anglesea
although I am sure one might easily leap over the widest part the channel
(fol. 114) when not flooded being not above twelve or fourteen feet
across. Arrived at Llanerchymedd a little before four, enquiring of the
innkeeper for an ancient stone with an inscription near the town he
accompanied us to the house of a clergyman who he said was very curious
in these particulars and would furnish us with every information on the
subject. Our reception was very pleasing but we had been misinformed in
regard to the object of our enquiries there being no other antiques in
the neighbourhood besides Maen Hîr Llanol and the stone at Llantrisant
about four miles distant. In the evening Mr. Richards the above
mentioned gentlemen called upon us at the inn and during our conversation
gave some interesting particulars of druidical remains in Bodafon
mountain which we purpose visiting in his company tomorrow. This
gentleman had a very perfect coin of Diocletian of which I took an
impression in sealing wax (fol. 114_a_) in order to make a fac simile of
the coin in isinglass on my return—if we cannot procure originals we must
be content with copies. Having noted down the occurrences of the day we
retired to bed desiring to be called very early in order to get breakfast
over by seven the time we had agreed to set out.
[Picture: No. 49. Maen Hir Llanol]
SATURDAY, DECR. 11
[Picture: No. 50. [Thief Stone.]]
A little before seven called at Mr. Richards’s house whom we found
waiting at the door ready to accompany us. He mounted his horse and we
pursued the Beaumaris turnpike for half {72a} a mile when we turned to
the left to look at a stone called Lleidr {72b} y Frydog or the thief
stone. This is a rough stone about six feet high having a kind of hump
or projection near the top. The country people report that a thief who
had stolen some books from a neighbouring church was in this place turned
into stone with the sack containing his theft laying over his shoulder.
About a quarter of a mile further Mr. Richards pointed to the spot where
formerly stood the nunnery of Clorach or St. Claire and not far from it
by the road side we saw two wells whose waters were enclosed in a square
reservoir of stone work. Tradition says that the two saints Seriol and
Cybi (the former having a cell at Priestholme the latter at Holyhead
where he founded a collegiate church) used to hold their weekly meetings
at these springs to consult on religious matters, and from the
circumstance of Seriol’s travelling westward in the morning and eastward
in the evening, and Cybi on the contrary always facing the sun they were
denominated
Seriol wyn a Chyby felyn.
Seriol the fair and Cybi the tawney.
[Picture: No. 50a. Cromlech on Bodafon Mountain]
[Picture: No. 51. Bodafon Hills]
When arrived at Bodafon hills a ridge of rocky ground (fol. 117_a_)
extending nearly two miles east and west Mr. Richards gave his horse to
our attendant and accompanied us to a cromlech lying at the side of the
hill denominated cromlech Lldercoch {73} nearly square the upper stone
being about eleven feet across supported by four or five small uprights
not above a foot and a half from the surface. This is by no means so
perfect as some we have before noticed. Had not Mr. Richards been
positive of the fact I should have doubted whether it had been designed
for one. Arrived nearly at the summit of the hill we entered a cottage
inhabited by a countryman whose grandfather and great grandfather resided
there before him. Under the direction of this person we climbed to the
top of the hill to look at a Carnedd. Most of the loose stones have been
removed but some of the flat ones which composed the cistfaen are still
on the spot, another more perfect lies about an hundred (fol. 118) yards
to the eastward of this, a third further beyond which we did not visit.
In the course of our walk the countryman pointed to a spot where he said
his grand-mother whilst tending the cattle found a large triangular {74}
piece of gold as he called it, standing on three supporters weighing
nearly forty pounds. The antique overgrown with heath but one of the
beasts happening to tread upon it occasioned the discovery. This she
sold for three shillings at Llanerchymedd.
[Picture: No. 52. South of Bodafon Hill with a British Town]
I should rather conceive that the metal was brass but whatever it was it
would have been of more considerable value in the eyes of the
antiquarian. Not far from this place he pointed to a number of loose
stones called by a Welsh word answering to gold tongues {75a} as many
pieces of gold of that shape he said were formerly picked up here. From
the formation here specified I think one may not hesitate a moment in
pronouncing they were brass celts or British weapons and as a farther
(fol. 118_a_) confirmation of this opinion not a great way distant facing
the south we traced the remains of a large British {75b} town. Here
about forty or fifty foundations such as we have before noticed at Tre
Evan may be clearly discerned some lying in a cluster together others
standing separate, others again having a square form the name given to
these remains scattered over the island we were informed by our
intelligent companion by Cyteau {76a} Gwydellhod not Irishmens huts as
some have translated it but the houses of the wild inhabitants. A spring
rising near the spot still has a term of the same signification being
stiled the well of the wild inhabitants. Some vestiges of similar {76b}
buildings are to be traced to the north side of the hill, as also on the
rising ground facing that part of Bodafon we have just noticed. It is
natural to suppose that when the island was covered with wood, the
inhabitants would fix their residence on elevated stations as a security
(fol. 120) against their enemies and beasts of prey we may suppose the
lower parts of these huts were alone built of stone and that branches of
trees and earth formed the covering like those at present used amongst
the lowest orders of Irish peasantry and why may not this people have
retained the mode observed by the ancient Britons from whence they derive
their origin. The highest point of Bodafon hills lies to the east
commanding almost the whole circuit of the island. Here a beacon used to
be lighted in case of invasion or to convey signals to the opposite coast
of Carnarvonshire although probably it is many years since anything of
the kind was used, yet the stones and the earth bear evident marks of the
fire. It blew so hard to-day that it was with difficulty we kept on our
legs on the high ground but on descending we were sheltered from the wind
and had a pleasant walk to Penhros Llûgwy church an ancient building
about half a mile to the south east of Bodafon hills. On a (fol. 120_a_)
rough flat stone in the church yard I traced the following inscription,
hic jacet Macuceceti. {77a} Mr. Rowlands, upon what authority I know
not, supposes this to have been an inscription on Mechell or Macutius
bishop of St. Maloes in Little Britain, who he says was buried here. We
also observed two or three flat grave {77b} stones of a rough gritty
substance about six feet long whereon was cut the figure of a cross in
the same manner as those I noticed last year at Furness abbey. But what
seemed most curious at first sight was an inscription marked on a flat
stone {78} lying on the ground whose characters I recognised to be
similar to what I had observed on the font at Bridekirk in Cumberland
mixed with Saxon letters of a much later date. On observing Mr. Richards
smile after I had finished my copy I requested he would candidly tell me
what the inscription meant and in what character (fol. 122) it was
written for I could make nothing out of it when he was kind enough to
relieve me from my perplexity by explaining that it had been executed
within these sixty years by a shepherds boy at the desire of a gentleman
who employed various alphabets to compose it. The words are Welsh to
this effect Yma hefyd mae Gorwedd Katherine Jones Ebrill 11 1744. ag. 70.
Here also lies without Catherine Jones April 11 1744 aged 70. This I
suppose was intended as a stumbling block for antiquarians the idea being
probably suggested by Mr. Rowland’s Macutius in the neighbourhood. Like
Doctor Johnson at the Hebrides I here had to regret the loss of my
walking stick for although I dispatched our attendant and clerk in quest
of it before we had proceeded an hundred yards from the place where I had
copied the inscription, it was vanished. I shrewdly suspect that the
clerk had taken a fancy to it as there was no other person in the church
yard excepting our own party. However as he supplied me with something
as a substitute it (fol. 122_a_) did not longer delay our march which
brought us in the course of half an hour to Llûgwy house an ancient
mansion now rented by a farmer under Lord Boston who goodnaturedly
invited us within doors and refreshed us with a good luncheon of bread
and cheese and some excellent ale. We then walked a short distance from
the house to a rising ground overgrown with timber trees and coppice wood
but still there was sufficient opening to enable us to trace a number of
the Cytiau Gwyddellhod of a more perfect form and larger dimensions than
any we had yet seen. They appear to be surrounded by a breast work of
massive stones stuck edgeways in the ground evidently intended as a
fortification which was probably strengthened by a mound and sharp
stakes. The habitations here are very contiguous the entrances easily
traced as also a communication {79} from one to the other. This is a
strong confirmation of the historical account of the Aborigines who are
said in the different tribes to have had every (fol. 126) thing in
common.
[Picture: No. 53. Stones in Penhros Llûgwy Churchyard]
[Picture: No. 54. Cromlech Llwgwy, North-East Side]
We purpose before we leave Wales visiting a very extensive fortress on
the top of Penmaenmawr which Mr. Richards says resembles very much the
one before us. Not far distant facing the ocean is a cromlech the upper
stone six yards long, five yards and a half wide and three yards {80a}
thick. One end rests upon a bank {80b} of earth and the other is
supported by four or five small upright stones, leaving a hollow beneath
about two feet high.
[Picture: No. 55. Llûgwy Cromlech [and Caer Lligwy.]]
Near this we noticed the remains of Llûgwy chapel now entirely
dilapidated. Walked hence to Llanalgo church said to have been built in
the year six hundred and five. On the north wall near the altar is a
mutilated monument {80c} of a knight in armour kneeling before an altar
said to be that of Sir John Bodville a gentleman whose residence was in
this parish. On digging a few years ago the foundation of the new
parsonage the workmen discovered a square vault formed of a solid
composition resembling thick (fol. 126_a_) tile supposed to be an ancient
burying place. Mr. Richards who was curate of this place for some years
says he has in his possession English coins of Edward {81} and Mary found
in digging in the church yard. Leaving the church we adjourned to a farm
house close by where the party was again supplied with bread cheese and
ale. Although I did not much admire this delay we were obliged to comply
with Mr. Richards’s request. Continued here nearly an hour during which
time a poor blind boy attempted to amuse us by playing on the harp but
having received but few instructions was but an indifferent performer,
our attendant then took the instrument and played some of the Welsh airs
with tolerable execution. The poor boy in the meantime exhibited such
strong marks of surprize mixed with mortification as would have supplied
an admirable subject for the pen of Hogarth.
[Picture: No. 56. Cromlech Allcho]
After having given something to him we were not a little glad to take our
leave it being (fol. 127) past two, and there was a doubt whether we
could procure accommodation for the night nearer than Beaumaris at least
twelve miles distant. Passed a stone about seven feet high nine long and
three thick this is placed edgeways on a flat rock, another about the
same shape and dimensions lies on the ground near at hand. A third
formerly placed across has been destroyed within the memory of some of
the inhabitants. These stones are called Cromlech but I should rather
imagine like those we noticed at Llanfechell that it had constituted the
chamber of a large Carnedd. Proceeding hence we walked over a natural
layer of lime stones extending for some acres along the surface of the
ground this is called Marian Glâs a term expressive of flat grey stones.
We here met with a countryman who joined our party and in our progress
pointed out some more of the Cytiau Gwyddellhod on (fol. 127_a_) a rising
ground called Bryn {82} ddiol, and from hence we saw a hill about two
miles to the westward named Rhos Fawr where he said were some other
remains and cromlechs but this lay so much out of our direction we could
not visit them. At Marian Mawr Mr. Richards quitted us. We were indeed
much indebted to him for his polite attention in accompanying us thus far
for I am convinced that without his assistance we should have passed many
of these curious remains the common people in general being ignorant of
everything of the kind. This gentleman seems to have paid a good deal of
attention to antiquities and has promised to favour me with a letter on
the subject on my return home. But I could not help remarking in the
course of conversation that superstition does not seem confined to the
ignorant and illiterate for he told me very gravely (fol. 129) that there
were companies of fairies still existing in Wales and particularly in
Anglesea and that he had frequently driven them from their haunts. He
also spoke of the knockers supposed to be little invisible beings
favourable to the miners who by making a variety of sounds underground
lead them to those places where there is the greatest quantity of ore. I
could only be silent when I heard these opinions advanced but he has
directed me to a book lately published by Mr. Edmund Jones of Pontypool
on the subject. At Marian Mawr are six large stones of the same kind as
the substrata rising above seven feet. They have obtained the name of
cromlech but I rather imagine them to be natural productions.
Under the guidance of the countryman we proceeded to Red Wharf. Passed
more of the Cytiau Gwyddelhod at a place called Trescifion. Near here is
an ancient mansion house called Glynn now belonging to Mr. Meyricke (fol.
129_a_) the name of Glynn a title common in many parts of Wales I find
implies a situation lying in a narrow valley overgrown with trees. Not
far beyond was a house in which Mr. Hughes resided before his vast
acquisition in the Parys mountain. Arrived at Red Wharf a little before
dark and the house promised but very bad accommodations we were obliged
to put up with them. Our eating was of the least importance but on
retiring to my sleeping apartment although the woman had provided clean
linen the _toute ensemble_ was so dirty I passed the night without taking
off my cloaths.
SUNDAY, DECR. 12
We were not sorry to leave this wretched alehouse as soon as there was
sufficient light to see our direction three miles across the sands of
Traeth Gôch to the village of Llanddona whose church stands on an
eminence above the (fol. 130) bay and was first founded by Ddona grandson
of Brychfael ys Cythrog (who fought the Saxons when the monks of Bangor
Iscoed were slaughtered) anno six hundred and ten. About half a mile to
the left are the traces of a large entrenchment supposed to have been
thrown up by the Britons as a defence against the northern invaders.
This is on a rising knoll called Dyn Sylwyn {84a} or Round Table Hill.
This we had not leisure to see being obliged to hasten to Llainestan
{84b} about a mile in the contrary direction in order to have sufficient
time to notice an ancient monument, mentioned by Mr. Rowlands, before
service began. Fortunately the church door was open and we met with no
interruption during the half hour we stayed there. The object in
question covering a cenotaph rose about two feet above the pavement near
the communion table. A person in a sacerdotal habit holding a pastoral
crook in his right hand and in his left a scroll is here represented,
whereon is inscribed (fol. 131_a_) hic jacet sanctus Jestinus cui &c.,
round the border of the slab towards the head the characters in parts are
much defaced but I read Gryffydd ap Gwyllym in oblationem istam imaginem
pro salute animarum suarum. The style of workmanship appears very
similar to that of Pabo post Prid and by the way tends to confirm the
opinion we there formed that the sculpture is many centuries posterior to
the time of the persons they are designed to represent and offered as an
oblation to the church for the purpose of securing the favour and
mediation of the patron saint. That the family of this Gryffyd ap
Gwyllym resided in this neighbourhood appears from a document still
extant dated at Rhayder Gadog June the twentieth in the twenty seventh
year of Henry the sixth by which seven villaines or vassals were made
over and granted by Ednyfed Fychan ap Ednyfed Dafydd ap Gryffydd and
Howell ap Dafydd according to the feudal system still obtaining to (fol.
133) William Gryffyd ap Gwylym free tenant of Porthamel probably the very
same person who presented the effigies of St. Jesten to the church. This
Jesten founder of the church is supposed to have been the son of
Gerennius or Geraint grandson of Constantine duke of Cornwall successor
to king Arthur. The font is certainly very ancient probably coeval with
the original building. The present structure differs nothing from other
Welsh Churches. From hence proceeded across a swampy heath for a mile
and a half to an old mansion called Fotti {85} Rhydderch or Roderick’s
summer house having been directed thither to see an inscription cut over
an arched chimney piece in the kitchen. The characters appear to be
about the time of Henry the eighth or his successor and are read Si deus
nobiscum quis contra nos. This place formerly the residence of a
gentleman’s family like most others we have had occasion to notice in the
island is now tenanted by a farmer (fol. 133_a_) who has a fine family of
nine children. The eldest a lad of only eleven years old engaged to
conduct us to the cromlechs at Cremlyn and Trefor. At the former place
there is little worthy of notice but at the latter I took two sketches of
a very perfect cromlech the upper stone measuring about three yards
across supported by two uprights the larger six feet high the other not
above four and a half which cause the cap stone to recline in a slanting
direction. Another long stone now lying on the ground appears to have
been formerly used as a supporter. Near at hand also are three or four
flat stones lying promiscuously.
[Picture: No. 58. Ancient Monument in Llaniestyn]
[Picture: No. 59. Font at Llaniestyn]
[Picture: No. 60. Cromlech at Trefor]
[Picture: No. 61. Cromlech at Trefor]
Whether these were ever employed in the formation of a second cromlech
like at Praes Addfed {86a} I cannot pretend to determine. About two
fields from hence in our way to Penymynnedd {86b} we traced one of very
small dimensions, the cap stone not being above a yard across and its two
supporters a foot and a half high.
(fol. 136) After a toilsome walk we arrived at Penymynnedd a place
formerly in possession of the Tudor family whose descendant Owen became
of such consequence in the British history by marrying Catherine widow of
Henry the fifth. In the church we perceived a handsome marble monument
said to belong to that family whereon are the effigies of a knight in
armour with his lady by his side. There being no inscription we could
not determine its exact date but from the workmanship I should imagine it
was posterior to the time of Owen who if I mistake not was buried in the
cathedral of St. Davids but of this I shall inform myself hereafter.
The church of Penymynnedd formerly went by the name of its founder whose
tomb they pointed out under a kind of gothic nitch in the north wall
without any kind of inscription. I did not copy the monument on account
of there being a good many people in church (fol. 136_a_) and I wished
not to put a stumbling block in my brother’s way but I afterwards made a
sketch from memory just to notice the place. After a homely meal we
walked half a mile across the fields to the turnpike, and in the course
of an hour arrived at Bangor ferry completely soaked a heavy rain having
accompanied us all the way. Crossed the water about two with the design
of reaching Capel Cerig to sleep but in this we were disappointed through
the inattention of our guide who having stopped behind on some pretence
we mistook our way and deviated nearly four miles before we got to
Llandegai.
It was now quite dark and stormy and we endeavoured to procure horses to
take us to the conclusion of our stage but without success, on therefore
we marched to a small public house near Lord Penrhyn’s quarries where we
met a civil reception though the accommodations were scarcely (fol. 138)
a whit better than those of the preceeding night. In the course of two
hours after our arrival our guide made his appearance with a number of
excuses I did not think it worth while to listen to. At about ten we
retired to our sleeping room.
[Picture: No. 30. Llangwyfan Church. (See page 43.)]
MONDAY, DECR. 13
It rained violently all night but clearing up after breakfast we pursued
our road to Capel Cerig. In our way purchased a hone at the quarry near
Ogwen lake of a man living in a cottage close at hand who is employed on
the spot to procure this article and two or three shiploads have already
been sent to different parts. Arrived at the inn about one gratified by
our ten days tour in the island notwithstanding the bad weather we
experienced having in that period walked above an hundred and sixty eight
miles.
* * * * *
CORRIGENDUM.
On page 68, line 30, _for_ “auxore” _read_ “uxore.”
FOOTNOTES.
{11a} Llanidan House belonged to Lord Boston, from whom Mr. Williams
rented it.
{11b} South-west.
{13a} Castell near Bryn Gwyn.
{13b} West.
{14a} Braint.
{14b} Caer Lab.
{15a} Bodowyr.
{15b} Half a mile south-west.
{16a} Myfyrian.
{16b} Tre Ifan.
{17} Llanedwen.
{18} Carnedd at Plâs Newydd.
{20} Cromlech at Plâs Newydd.
{22a} Gwydryn.
{22b} Brynsiencyn.
{23} Castell Idris.
{28} Perthi Duon?
{30a} A mile and a quarter south-west.
{30b} Frondeg.
{32a} Malltraeth.
{32b} Trefdraeth.
{34} Llysdulas.
{36a} Llyn Coron.
{36b} Trefeilir.
{37} Tregarnedd? three miles to the north. “Ester mon eglwr”—should
this read . . . maes elidr? “? Esgair maes elidr.”
{38} Cerrigceinwen.
{44a} Llangwyfan House.
{44b} Mynydd Cnwc.
{46} At Ty Newydd.
{47a} Crigyll.
{47b} At Pentraeth.
{49} Nhewyn.
{50a} Gwyndy.
{50b} At Presaddfedd.
{50c} Feet?
{53} Llandrygarn.
{54} Now at Trescawen.
{71} Alaw?
{72a} Two miles.
{72b} Careg Lleidr.
{73} Can this be meant for Lleidrgoch or Llechgoch? Possibly it should
be Llidach as a chapel of this name used to stand close to the
spot.—_Cambrian Register_, ii, 288.
{74} The exact spot where the “triangular piece of gold” was found is
not clearly indicated. Apparently it was on the North-West side of the
mountain. Mr. Skinner, however, in his sketch, shows it on the
South-East side.
Probably the sketches were worked up in the evening from memory, which
may account for the errors which appear in some of them.
{75a} The position where these “gold tongues” stood was probably on the
North-West side of the mountain though shown by Mr. Skinner on the
South-East.
{75b} This town was Tre Beirdd on the North-West side of the mountain,
incorrectly indicated on the South-East side on Mr. Skinner’s ground
plan.
{76a} Cyttiau Gwyddelod.
{76b} These are marked on the 25 in. Ordnance Map.
{77a} Maccudecceti.
{77b} No such stones are now to be found here.
{78} Catherine Jones’ burial is entered in the Register, but the stone
cannot be found.
{79} This is incorrect.
{80a} The thickness is about 3 ft. 6 ins.
{80b} At this end it rests on a flat rock.
{80c} Demolished about fifteen years ago.
{81} William and Mary.
{82} At Traeth Bychan? Bryn ddiol is the hill on which the
Romano-British village, close to Parciau House, is situated.
{84a} Din Sylwy or Bwrdd Arthur.
{84b} Llaniestyn.
{85} Hafodty
{86a} Presaddfedd.
{86b} Penmynydd.
*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "Ten Days' Tour through the Isle of Anglesea - December, 1802" ***
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