Crater Lake National Park, Oregon (1958)

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Title: Crater Lake National Park, Oregon (1958)
Author: Anonymous
Language: English
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OREGON (1958) ***

Cover: _Wizard Island. Llao Rock in the background._

CRATER LAKE
NATIONAL PARK

Contents

Welcome 3
Discovery and History 4
The Geological Story of Crater Lake 4
Wildlife 7
Map 8
Forests and Wildflowers 10
Interpretive Service 12
What To See and Do 12
How To Get to the Park 14
Accommodations and Camping 14
Miscellaneous Services 15
Mission 66 15
Administration 15
Help Us Protect This Park 16
Visitor Use Fees 16

[Illustration: National Park System]

The National Park System, of which this park is a unit, is dedicated to
conserving the scenic, scientific, and historic heritage of the United
States for the benefit and enjoyment of its people.

[Illustration: Department of the Interior]

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
Fred A. Seaton, _Secretary_
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE, Conrad L. Wirth, _Director_

CRATER LAKE
National Park

_Open All Year_—Regular Season, June 15 to September 15

_Welcome_

The superintendent and the staff of Crater Lake National Park welcome
you to this area of the National Park System. We hope that your stay
here will be pleasant and inspiring.

Here in this park you encounter beauty—beauty in a wonderful combination
of form and substance and sparking color—great curving walls of rock and
sand, green spires of fir and hemlock, and the brilliant reflections of
Crater Lake. All this is a part of a remarkable volcanic story.

On this spot, a few thousand years ago, stood the mighty 12,000-foot
volcano, Mount Mazama. This great mountain discharged a tremendous
quantity of ash and lava, causing the mountaintop to collapse, and
creating a caldera, which now contains the unbelievably blue Crater
Lake. It is the central feature of this 250-square-mile National Park on
the crest of the Cascade Range in southern Oregon.

A major charm of Crater Lake is that the whole lake and its setting can
be taken in by the eye at one time. Yet its size is impressive. The lake
is about 20 square miles in area, 6 miles wide, and has 20 miles of
shoreline. The surrounding cliffs rise as much as 2,000 feet to the
uneven crater rim which averages about 7,000 feet in elevation.

WILD ANIMALS

It is dangerous for you to get near wild animals though they may appear
tame. Some have become accustomed to humans, but they still are wild and
may seriously injure you if you approach them. Regulations prohibiting
feeding, teasing, touching, or molesting wild animals are enforced for
your safety.

_Discovery and History_

The Klamath Indians knew of, but seldom visited Crater Lake. They
regarded the lake and the mountain as the battleground of the gods. The
lake was discovered on June 12, 1853, by John Wesley Hillman, a young
prospector leading a party in search of a rumored “Lost Cabin Mine.”
Having failed in their efforts, Hillman and his party returned to
Jacksonville, a mining camp in the Rogue River Valley, and reported
their discovery which they had named Deep Blue Lake.

On October 21, 1862, Chauncey Nye, leading a party of prospectors from
eastern Oregon to Jacksonville, happened upon the lake. Thinking that
they had made a discovery, they named it Blue Lake. A third “discovery”
was made on August 1, 1865, by two soldiers stationed at Fort Klamath,
who called it Lake Majesty. In 1869 this name was changed to Crater Lake
by visitors from Jacksonville.

Before 1885 Crater Lake had few visitors and was not widely known. On
August 15 of that year William Gladstone Steel, after 15 years of effort
to get to the lake, stood for the first time on its rim. Inspired by its
beauty, Steel conceived the idea of preserving it as a National Park.
For 17 years, with much personal sacrifice, he devoted time and energy
to this end. Success was realized when the park was established on May
22, 1902, with W. F. Arant as its first superintendent. Steel continued
to devote his life to development of the park, serving as its second
superintendent and later as park commissioner, which office he held
until his death in 1934.

_The Geological Story of Crater Lake_

Origin of the Mountain. The slope, which you ascend to view the lake,
and the caldera wall rising 500 to 2,000 feet above the water, are
remnants of Mount Mazama.

In comparatively recent geologic time, numerous volcanic peaks were
formed near the western edge of a vast lava plateau covering parts of
Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, and California. These are
the Cascade Range, of which Mount Mazama was one of the commanding
peaks. It was built by successive lava flows with some accumulation of
volcanic ash. The cone thus formed was modified by streams and glaciers
which carved valleys in its sides and deposited rock debris on its
flanks. The layered character and different formations of the mountain
are now clearly exposed in numerous places within the caldera wall.

Forming of Dikes. In addition to broad surface flows, it is common for
molten lava to be squeezed into cracks, or fissures, that develop in a
volcano. Such filling results in dikes, or walls, frequently harder than
the enclosing rock. At Crater Lake the destruction of the mountain and
subsequent erosion have exposed numerous dikes in the wall, of which the
Devil’s Backbone on the west wall is an outstanding example.

Action of Streams and Glaciers. In the layers forming the crater wall
there is evidence of the action of water. In some places this is shown
by the cutting of valleys; in others, by the accumulation of
water-carried gravel and boulders.

Glacial ice, carrying sand, pebbles, and boulders, scratches and
polishes rock surfaces over which it moves. Glacial polish and thick
beds of glacial debris are common around the mountain. They occur on the
surface rock and between earlier layers, showing that glaciers existed
at various stages in the history of the mountain.

U-shaped valleys, such as Kerr Notch, Sun Notch, and Munson Valley on
the southeast slope of Mount Mazama, are evidence of glaciation. The
lava flow which formed Llao Rock filled an ancient glacial notch.

Forming of the Caldera. Many geologists have concluded that the basin
occupied by the lake resulted from the collapse and subsidence of the
volcanic cone of Mount Mazama. This explanation was first proposed by J.
S. Diller, of the United States Geological Survey, who considered that
the support of the summit was weakened by drainage of great quantities
of molten rock through subterranean cracks. The pit thus formed grew
progressively larger in all directions, as is indicated by the broken
edges exposed around its rim today. Extensive study by Prof. Howel
Williams, of the University of California, led him to practically the
same conclusion.

In his delightful, popular, and scientifically accurate book, _Crater
Lake, The Story of Its Origin_, Williams describes great quantities of
pumice extending more than 80 miles northeast of Mount Mazama. This
pumice was blown from the mountain in a catastrophic event and carried
northeastward by the prevailing winds. Analysis shows that this is
material derived from the heart of the volcano and not finely divided
fragments of the original mountain walls.

Following this eruption, the crater is believed literally to have boiled
over, pouring out great quantities of frothy material as a series of
glowing avalanches. These avalanches must have traveled at a terrific
speed down the valleys, for those to the south and west did not begin to
deposit their load until they had reached a distance of 4 to 5 miles.
The greater quantity flowed down the mountain to the south and southwest
for distances up to 35 miles from the source. The total volume of the
ejected lava was about 5 cubic miles. It is believed that an additional
1.5 cubic miles of old rock were carried away at the same time.

Accompanying these eruptions, which occurred within the past 7,000
years, cracks developed in the flanks of the mountain so that the top
collapsed, being engulfed in the void produced by the ejection of the
pumice and lava and the withdrawal of 10 cubic miles of molten rock into
swarms of cracks that probably opened parallel to the axis of the
Cascade Range. Thus was formed the great pit that was to become Crater
Lake.

By projecting the slopes of the mountain remnant upward, conforming to
the slopes of similar volcanoes, it has been estimated that
approximately 17 cubic miles of the upper part of ancient Mount Mazama
was destroyed by the collapse.

The Growth of Wizard Island. After the destruction of the peak,
volcanic activity within the caldera produced Wizard Island and perhaps
other cones. These cones rise above a relatively flat floor, the lowest
part of which is almost 2,000 feet below the surface of the present
lake.

[Illustration: _Hillman Peak—Highest Point on Rim of Crater Lake_]

Origin of the Lake. The water of Crater Lake comes from rain and snow.
The average annual precipitation is 69 inches. The lake has no inlet and
no outlet, except seepage. Evaporation, seepage, and precipitation are
in a state of relative balance which maintains an approximately constant
water level. In 1957, the lake level was the highest recorded since
1908. There is an annual variation of from 1 to 3 feet, the level being
highest in spring and lowest in autumn.

Color of the Lake. The deep blue of the lake is believed to be caused
chiefly by the scattering of sunlight in water of exceptional depth and
clearness, the blue rays of sunlight being bent back upward, rays of
other colors being absorbed.

_Wildlife_

Mammals. There are about 60 kinds, of which the golden-mantled ground
squirrels are among the most conspicuous. They resemble large chipmunks
but have stockier bodies, shorter tails and no stripes on their heads.
On each side there is a broad, white stripe sandwiched between two dark
stripes. Two species of true chipmunks with striped heads also are
numerous. The small, tree-inhabiting chickaree, dark brown above and
whitish below, is common; and the porcupine is frequently seen. It is
advisable to enjoy these and all other small mammals without actual
contact because occasionally they carry diseases which can become
serious if transmitted to humans.

The large fat-bodied marmot (a mountain woodchuck) lives in high rocky
places and on roadsides. The plaintive bleating “yenk, yenk” of the tiny
“rock rabbit” (cony) issues from crevices in the talus. Snowshoe hares,
brown in summer and white in winter, are sparingly present around forest
clearings, such as at the south and east entrances.

Martens are rather common; they are slim brown animals somewhat like
large minks but they can climb trees like squirrels. Less often seen are
weasels, badgers, minks, red foxes, and coyotes. The gray fox, bobcat,
and mountain lion (cougar) are rare.

American black bears are fairly common and may be encountered in many
parts of the park. Usually they are black, but many shades of brown also
occur, just as hair color varies among people. Do not let bears get
close to you. Many people have been painfully clawed when these animals
have lost their natural fear of man and have learned to beg for food. DO
NOT FEED THE BEARS! Feeding them is unlawful, and violating this
regulation seriously endangers other park visitors by encouraging the
bears to beg.

The comparatively small and dark “black-tailed” deer of the Pacific
Coast is the most common form, particularly on the west side of the
park. The larger, lighter-colored mule deer occurs around meadows on the
east side of the park, including Rim Drive.

_Map_

[Illustration: Map]

LET’S NOT BE GUILTY OF STARTING A FOREST FIRE.
ALWAYS USE CAR ASH TRAYS.
COMPLETELY EXTINGUISH MATCHES AND CIGARETTES BEFORE THROWING AWAY.
BE SURE CAMPFIRE IS OUT.

Birds. More than 120 kinds of birds have been recorded. On the rim,
the harsh-voiced Clark’s nutcracker is the most conspicuous. It is a
little larger and more heavily built than a jay and has a long sharp
bill. The bird’s overall color is light gray, the wings are black with a
large white patch, and the tail is conspicuously white with black
central tail feathers. Two jays are also numerous at times on the rim,
the dark-blue Steller’s jay which has a long, blackish crest, and the
uncrested gray jay (“camp robber”) which has a short bill, a dark patch
on the back of the head, a white crown, and whitish underparts.

Eagle Crags have furnished nesting places for both the golden and
American eagles which sometimes may be seen flying over the lake. Llao
Rock is the home of falcons. Double-crested cormorants may perch on the
“masts” of the Phantom Ship, and California gulls are seen regularly on
the lake. The sooty grouse inhabits the fir forests from which its
ventriloquial booming call issues in the spring. Several species of
ducks and geese use the lake during migration, and the Barrow’s
golden-eye and merganser nest there occasionally.

Other species most likely to be observed are the horned owl, red-tailed
hawk, sparrow hawk, nighthawk, rufous hummingbird, olive-sided
flycatcher, raven, mountain chickadee, red-breasted nuthatch, dipper
(along streams and on the lake shore), robin, hermit thrush,
russet-backed thrush, mountain bluebird, golden-crowned kinglet, Audubon
warbler, western tanager, evening grosbeak, Cassin purple finch, rosy
finch (vicinity of snow banks), pine siskin, Oregon junco, chipping
sparrow, and fox sparrow.

_Forests and Wildflowers_

The virgin forests and wildflower meadows mantling the slopes, which one
ascends to view Crater Lake, are outstanding attractions enhancing the
scenic value of the lake. Scattered through the forests of predominantly
cone-bearing trees are a few broad-leaved species. Colorful meadows of
alpine wildflowers are found around numerous springs which form the
sources of many creeks on the outer slope of the mountain.

Plants characteristic of four zones of vegetation are found within the
park, yielding over 570 species of ferns and flowering plants. Patches
of Douglas-firs, typical of the humid division of the upper Transition
Zone, occur in the region of the park lying on the western slope of the
Cascade Range. The semi-humid division of the zone, characterized by the
ponderosa pines, largest trees in the park, may be found at the south
entrance of the park. Associated with it are sugar pines, white firs,
and western white pines. Above the Transition is the Canadian Zone in
which occur lodgepole pines, Shasta red firs, alpine firs, and mountain
hemlocks.

In the rim area around Crater Lake, Hudsonian Zone species are found.
These include mountain hemlocks (the most predominant trees in the
park), alpine firs, Shasta red firs, and whitebark pines. Stunted
whitebark pines predominate on the slopes of Mount Scott, the summit
being in the Alpine-Arctic Zone.

During July and August, you will find Nature’s colorful displays of
alpine wildflowers on the road between park headquarters and Rim Village
and along the trails on the crater rim. These displays change with each
week of the short flowering season.

[Illustration: _Phantom Ship. Applegate and Garfield Peaks are
reflected in Crater Lake._]

Castle Crest Wildflower Garden, near park headquarters, is one of the
most attractive and ideal places for viewing and studying Crater Lake
flora. Throughout the summer, you may study the exhibits of fresh
flowers displayed at the Information Building in the Rim Village.

_Interpretive Service_

During the summer, daily interpretive service is scheduled by the
National Park Service. Informal talks are given at Sinnott Memorial, and
evening programs are held in the Community House, both in Rim Village.
Field trips start from the Information Building on the rim just west of
the lodge. Rim Drive bus trips begin at the lodge. Boat trips, when in
operation, start at the foot of the Lake (Crater Wall) Trail.

Programs of current interpretive activities are posted at several places
in the park.

The Sinnott Memorial, with its broad terrace overlooking the lake,
serves as an orientation point. It is located close to the lodge and the
Rim Campground. Pictorial displays in the exhibit room portray artists’
conceptions of the varying moods of the lake. Field glasses and a large
relief map of the region are located on the terrace.

_What to See and Do_

Rim Drive. Many spectacular views may be had from numerous observation
points along this road which encircles the caldera.

Wizard Island. This symmetrical cinder cone, towering some 760 feet
above the surface of the lake, is reached by boat. A trail leads from
the shore to the crater, which is approximately 90 feet deep and 300
feet in diameter.

The Phantom Ship. Rising about 160 feet above the waters of the lake,
this island resembles a ship under sail. The best views of the Phantom
Ship are obtained from the launches and from Kerr Notch along the Rim
Drive.

Garfield Peak. A 1.7-mile trail, east of the lodge, leads to Garfield
Peak. From its summit, elevation 8,060 feet, there is a magnificent view
of the lake and surrounding region.

The Watchman. This peak, on the west rim, may be reached by a
half-mile trail from the rim road. A rare panorama of the park and
surrounding country may be viewed from the fire lookout, 8,025 feet
above sea level and about 1,850 feet above the lake.

Cloudcap. On the east rim, and rising to an elevation of more than
8,000 feet, Cloudcap provides an excellent observation point.

Mount Scott. East of Cloudcap is Mount Scott, the highest point in the
park, reaching an altitude of 8,938 feet. Its summit, on which there is
a fire-lookout station, is accessible by a 2.5-mile trail from Rim
Drive.

The Pinnacles. In Wheeler Creek, near the east boundary of the park,
are slender spires of pumice. Some of the needles are 200 feet high. In
Sand Creek Canyon and Godfrey’s Glen, in Annie Creek Canyon, there are
other spires and fluted columns carved out of the soft volcanic material
by water erosion.

Other Places of Interest in the Park and Vicinity. Hillman Peak, 8,156
feet, is the highest point on the rim, rising nearly 2,000 feet above
the lake. Palisade Point, Kerr Notch, and the Wineglass are low points
on the rim, being slightly more than 500 feet above the lake.

[Illustration: _Natural ski run cut by old rock slide._]

Hiking. Besides the longer hikes mentioned in preceding paragraphs,
there are delightful short walks, such as along Discovery Point Trail on
the rim, and through Castle Crest Wildflower Gardens.

Those who desire information about other interesting places in the park
and vicinity are invited to inquire at park headquarters or the
Information Building.

Fishing. Angling amid the scenic beauty of Crater Lake is an
experience long to be remembered. No fish were native to Crater Lake;
the first planting of rainbow trout was made in 1888 by William G.
Steel. In recent years only rainbow trout and sockeye (kokanee) salmon
have been planted. Trolling has proved to be the most successful method
of fishing. The daily limit is 10 fish per person. From about mid-July
to Labor Day, rowboats are available. Shore fishing usually may be
enjoyed from the latter part of June until late September, depending on
weather conditions. No license is needed to fish in Crater Lake.
Possession or use of fish as bait is not allowed.

Winter Visits. Since the park is open the year round, you may enjoy
Crater Lake’s fantasy of snowy splendor and participate in winter
sports. Two trails from the Rim Village to park headquarters are
maintained for skiers in winter. Professional ski meets are discouraged
and amateur sports encouraged.

There are no overnight accommodations in the park from about September
15 to June 15, but warming-room facilities are provided at Rim Village.

The west and south entrance roads to the Rim Village area are open to
motor travel. You should be well supplied with gasoline and oil, as they
are not available in the park in winter. Tire chains, tow rope, and
shovel are necessary accessories.

Rangers are on duty to render service all year.

_How to Get to the Park_

By Common Carrier. The Southern Pacific Railroad, several airlines,
and bus lines serve Medford, Klamath Falls, and Grants Pass, Oreg.
Pacific Trailways buses, operating on daily schedules through the park,
connect with points north and south from about June 15 to September 15.

By Automobile. Paved State highways connect with the park road system
at all entrances. State Route 62 connects the west entrance of the park,
through Medford, with U.S. 99, 199, and 101. It also leads from the
south entrance to U.S. 97. From the north entrance, connection is made
with U.S. 97 via State Route 230. The roads through the west and south
entrances to the rim are maintained as all-year roads. _The north
entrance road and Rim Drive are closed approximately September 25 to
July 1 depending on snow conditions._

_Accommodations and Camping_

Rim Village (900 feet above the lake) includes the lodge, sleeping
cabins, cafeteria, store, campground, picnic area, Community House,
Information Building, and Sinnott Memorial. The lake is accessible by
trail from Rim Village.

Accommodations, which include sleeping cabins and single and double
rooms at the lodge, are available from about June 15 to September 15.
Information regarding rates may be obtained from the Crater Lake
National Park Company (winter address, Box 968, Spokane, Wash.; summer,
Crater Lake, Oreg.). It is imperative that reservations be made well in
advance and be accompanied by a deposit and a request for confirmation
of availability.

There are dining-room facilities in the lodge. The cafeteria, which is
near the campground and cabins, is open from 7 a. m. to 8:30 p. m.

Campgrounds. There are three main campgrounds open from about July 1
to September 30. _Mazama Campground_, near the junction of the south and
west entrance roads, and _Rim Campground_, close to Rim Village, have
fireplaces, tables, water and flush toilets. _Lost Creek Campground_ in
the southeast part of the park and 12 miles from park headquarters, has
fireplaces, tables, and water, but toilets are most primitive.

Camping is limited to 30 days. No reservations for campsites can be
made.

_Miscellaneous Services_

Launches and Rowboats. A number of trips are made daily, during the
summer, by launch from the boatlanding at the foot of the lake trail to
Wizard Island. Private boats are not permitted on the lake, but rowboats
may be hired at the boatlanding.

One of the popular attractions is the 2½-hour launch trip around the
lake, leaving the boatlanding at 9 o’clock each morning during the
boating season. A naturalist accompanies this trip. Boating services are
provided by the Crater Lake National Park Company.

Other Services. The post office and long-distance telephone and
telegraph services are located in the administration building at park
headquarters. The post office address is Crater Lake, Oreg. Guests of
the Crater Lake National Park Company should have mail addressed in care
of Crater Lake Lodge to insure prompt delivery.

A gasoline station is maintained during summer on the road near park
headquarters. No storage or repair facilities, however, are available
within the park. In case of accident or mechanical failure, towing
service must be obtained from outside the park.

Time and place of church services are posted in the lodge, information
building, and cafeteria.

_Mission 66_

Mission 66 is a program designed to be completed by 1966 which will
assure the maximum protection of the scenic, scientific, wilderness, and
historic resources of the National Park System in such ways and by such
means as will make them available for the use and enjoyment of present
and future generations.

_Administration_

Crater Lake National Park is administered by the National Park Service
of the United States Department of the Interior. A superintendent is in
immediate charge of the park, with offices in the administrative center,
3 miles from Rim Village. Communications regarding the park should be
addressed to the Superintendent, Crater Lake National Park, Crater Lake,
Oreg., during the summer and to Box 672, Medford, Oreg., from October to
June.

_PARK RANGERS AND NATURALISTS_

Park rangers are the protective force of the park. They are on duty to
enforce park regulations, and to help and advise you. Consult them if
you are in any difficulty.

Park naturalists are here to help you understand the park. They, too,
welcome your observations and your inquiries.

_Help Us Protect This Park_

Park regulations are designed for the protection of the natural features
and for your comfort and convenience. The following synopsis is for your
guidance:

Fires. Light carefully and only in designated campgrounds. Extinguish
completely before leaving camp, even for a temporary absence. Do not
guess your fire is out—KNOW IT. One spark may start a forest fire,
destroy the beauty of the park, and endanger many lives. Throwing
burning materials from car windows constitutes a fire threat and is
unlawful in most western States.

Camps. Use designated campgrounds and keep them clean. Burn combustible
rubbish on campfires, and place other refuse of all kinds in garbage
cans or pits provided for the purpose. Only down material may be used as
firewood.

Trash. Do not throw paper, lunch refuse, or other trash over the rim, on
walks, trails, roads, or elsewhere. Carry until you can burn in camp or
place in receptacle.

Trees, Flowers, and Animals. The destruction, injury, disturbance, or
removal in any way of trees, flowers, birds, or animals is prohibited in
order that everyone may enjoy the beauties of nature.

Noises. Please do not be noisy in camp before 6 a. m. and after 10 p. m.
Many people come to the park for rest.

Automobiles. Drive carefully. Speeds limits, which vary for different
sections of the park, are posted.

Pets. When not in an automobile, dogs, cats, and other pets must be on
leash or otherwise under physical restrictive control at all times. They
are not permitted in the lodge, in the dining room, the store, other
public buildings or on any of the trails.

Warning About Bears and Deer. Do not feed, touch, tease, or molest the
bears and deer. Bears will enter or break into automobiles if food that
they can smell is left inside. They will also rob your camp of
unprotected food supplies.

Fishing. Open season: Streams, June 15-September 10; Crater Lake, when
trail is open. The limit is 10 fish per day for each person fishing. No
fishing license is necessary. Possession of bait fish, or the use
thereof as bait, is not allowed.

Accidents. Report all accidents and injuries as soon as possible to the
ranger office at park headquarters.

Complete rules and regulations are available at park headquarters.

_VISITOR USE FEES_

Automobile, housetrailer, and motorcycle permit fees are collected at
entrance stations. When vehicles enter at times when entrance stations
are unattended, it is necessary that the permit be obtained before
leaving the park and be shown upon reentry. The fees applicable to the
park are not listed herein because they are subject to change, but they
may be obtained in advance of a visit by addressing a request to the
superintendent.

All national park fees are deposited as revenue in the U. S. Treasury;
they offset, in part, appropriations made for operating and maintaining
the National Park System.

Revised 1958

U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1958—O-458046

Transcriber’s Notes

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
_underscores_.

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