New system of domestic cookery,: formed upon principles of economy, and adapted to the use of private families

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Title: New system of domestic cookery,: formed upon principles of economy, and adapted to the use of private families
Author: Rundell, Maria Eliza Ketelby
Language: English
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*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "New system of domestic cookery,: formed upon principles of economy, and adapted to the use of private families" ***
COOKERY, ***

NEW SYSTEM
OF
DOMESTIC COOKERY,
FORMED UPON
PRINCIPLES OF ECONOMY,
AND ADAPTED TO THE USE OF
PRIVATE FAMILIES.

BY A LADY.

BOSTON:

Published by WILLIAM ANDREWS, No. 1, _Cornhill_.

Sold by Cushing & Appleton, _Salem_; Thomas & Whipple, _Newburyport_;
Charles Peirce, _Portsmouth_; Daniel Johnson, _Portland_; William
Wilkinson, _Providence_; Increase Cooke & Co. _Newhaven_; Peter A.
Mesier and Brisban & Brannan, _Newyork_; Samuel F. Bradford and John
Conrad & Co. _Philadelphia_, & E. Morford, _Charleston_, S. C.

1807.

S. Etheridge, Printer, Charleston.

ADVERTISEMENT.

As the directions which follow were intended for the conduct of the
families of the authoress’s own daughters, and for the arrangement of
their table, so as to unite a good figure with proper economy, she has
avoided all excessive luxury, such as essence of ham, and that wasteful
expenditure of large quantities of meat for gravy, which so greatly
contributes to keep up the price, and is no less injurious to those who
eat, than to those whose penury bids them abstain. Many receipts are
given for things which, being in daily use, the mode of preparing them
may be supposed too well known to require a place in a cookery book; yet
how rarely do we meet with fine melted butter, good toast and water, or
well made coffee! She makes no apology for minuteness in some articles,
or for leaving others unnamed, because she writes not for professed
cooks. This little work would have been a treasure to herself, when she
first set out in life, and she therefore hopes it may be useful to
others. In that idea it is given to the public, and as she will receive
from it no emolument, so she trusts it will escape without censure.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

PAGE.

Miscellaneous observations for the use of the Mistress of a
Family, 1

Different methods of cooking the several kinds of Fish, 1 to 17

Observations on dressing Fish, 17 to 20

On dressing Meats, 20 to 76

On dressing Poultry, 76 to 87

On making Pies, 87 to 93

On making Soups, 93 to 101

On making Gravies and Sauces, 102 to
111

On making Vinegars and Pickles, 112 to
124

On making Stews, 124 to
127

On making Salads and boiling Vegetables, 128 to
131

Small Dishes for Supper, 131

Forcemeat for Patties, Balls, or stuffing, 132

Pastry, 133 to
141

Puddings, 142 to
159

Sweet Dishes, 159 to
186

Fruits, 186 to
210

Ices, 210 to
212

Cakes, 212 to
229

French Bread, 229

To make and preserve Yeast, ibid.

To pot and roast Cheese, 230

To poach Eggs, 231

On managing a Dairy, 231 to
235

Home Brewery, 236 to
247

Cookery for the Sick, 247 to
264

Cookery for the Poor, 264 to
268

Useful Directions to give to Servants, 269 to
276

=Miscellaneous Observations=
FOR THE USE OF
THE MISTRESS OF A FAMILY;
BY WHICH MUCH MONEY WILL BE SAVED, AND THE GENERAL APPEARANCE GREATLY
IMPROVED.

The mistress of a family should always remember that the welfare and
good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior; and
consequently that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste
may be avoided; and this attention is of more importance, now that the
price of every necessary of life is increased to an enormous degree.

If a lady has never been accustomed, while single, to think of family
management, let her not upon that account fear that she cannot attain
it; she may consult others who are more experienced, and acquaint
herself with the necessary quantities of the several articles of family
expenditure in proportion to the number it consists of.

A minute account of the annual income, and the times of payment, should
be taken in writing; likewise an estimate of the supposed amount of each
article of expense; and those who are early accustomed to calculations
on domestic articles, will acquire so accurate a knowledge of what their
establishment requires, as will give them the happy medium between
prodigality and parsimony, without acquiring the character of meanness.

Ready money should be paid for all such things as come not into weekly
bills; and the best places for purchasing be attended to. In some
articles a discount of five per cent. is allowed in London, and other
large cities; and those who thus pay are usually best served. Under the
idea of buying cheap, many people go to new shops; but it is safest to
deal with people of established credit, who do not dispose of bad goods
by underselling.

To make people wait for their money injures them greatly, besides that a
higher price must be charged: perhaps the irregularity of payment may
have much evil influence on the price of various articles, and
contribute to the destruction of many families, in gradation downwards.

It is very necessary for a woman to be informed of the prices and
goodness of all articles in common use, and of the best times, as well
as places, for purchasing them. She should also be acquainted with the
_comparative_ prices of provisions, in order that she may be able to
substitute those that are most reasonable, when they will answer as
well, for others of the same kind, but which are more costly. A false
notion of economy leads many to purchase as bargains what is not wanted,
and sometimes never is used. Were this error avoided, more money would
remain for other purposes. Some things are better for keeping, and,
being in constant consumption, should be laid in accordingly; such as
paper, soap, and candles. Of these more hereafter.

A proper quantity of household articles should be always ready, and more
bought in before the others be consumed, to prevent inconvenience,
especially in the country.

A bill of parcels and receipts should be required, even if the money be
paid at the time of purchase; and, to avoid mistakes, let the goods be
compared with these when brought home.

Though it is very disagreeable to suspect any one’s honesty, and perhaps
mistakes have been unintentional, yet it is prudent to weigh meat,
sugars, &c. when brought in, and compare with the charge. The butcher
should be ordered to send the weight with the meat, and the cook to file
these checks, to be examined when the weekly bill shall be delivered.

A ticket should be given by the cook for each loaf, which will on return
give the number to be paid for.

Thus regularly conducted, the exact state of money affairs will be known
with ease; for it is delay of payment that occasions confusion.

Accounts should be regularly kept, and not the smallest articles omitted
to be entered; and if balanced every week and month, the income and
outgoings will be ascertained with facility, and their proportions to
other be duly observed. Some people approve of keeping in separate
purses the money for different purposes, as domestic articles, clothes,
pocket, education of children, &c.

Whichever way accounts be kept, some certain method should be adopted
and strictly adhered to.

Many families have owed their prosperity full as much to the conduct and
propriety of female management, as to the knowledge and activity of the
father.

Those who are served with brewer’s beer, or any other thing not paid for
on delivery, should have a book for entering the date; which will not
only prevent overcharges, but at one view give the annual consumption.

It is much to be feared, that for the waste of many of the good things
that God has given for our use, not abuse, the mistress and servants of
great houses will hereafter be called to a strict account.

Some part of every person’s fortune should be devoted to charity; by
which “a pious woman will build up her house before God, while she that
is foolish (_i. e._ lends nothing to the Lord) pulls it down with her
hands.” No one can complain of the want of gifts to the poor in this
land; but there is a mode of relief which would add greatly to their
comfort, and which being prepared from superfluity, and such materials
as are often thrown away, the expense would not be felt. In the latter
part of this work some hints for preparing the above are given.

By good hours, especially early breakfast, a family is more regular, and
much time is saved. If orders be given soon in the morning, there will
be more time to execute them; and servants, by doing their work with
ease, will be more equal to it, and fewer will be necessary.

It is worthy of notice, that the general expense will be reduced, if
every thing be kept in its proper place, applied to its proper use, and
mended, when the nature of an accident will allow, as soon as broken.

An inventory of furniture, linen, and china, should be kept, and the
things examined by it twice a year, or oftener, if there be a change of
servants; into each of whose care the articles used by him or her,
should be intrusted, with a list, as is done with plate. Tickets of
parchment with the family name, numbered, and specifying what bed it
belongs to, should be sewed on each feather bed, bolster, pillows, and
blankets.

Many well meaning servants are ignorant of the best means of managing,
and thereby waste as much as would maintain a small family, besides
causing the mistress of the house much chagrin by their irregularity;
and many families, from a want of method, have the appearance of chance
rather than of regular system. To avoid which the following hints may be
useful.

All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness; sugars of
different qualities should be kept broken, currants washed, picked and
dry in a jar; spice pounded, &c.

Where regular noonings or suppers are used (and in every house some
preparation is necessary for accidental visitors), care should be taken
to have such things in readiness as may be proper for either; a list of
several will be subjoined, a change of which will be agreeable, and if
properly managed will be attended with no great expense.

Every article should be kept in that place best suited to it, as much
waste may thereby be avoided, viz.

Vegetables will keep best on a stone floor if the air be excluded; meat
in a cold dry place; sugar and sweetmeats require a dry place; so does
salt; candles cold, but not damp; dried meats, hams, &c. the same; all
sorts of seeds for puddings, saloop, rice, &c. should be close covered
to preserve from insects. Flour should be kept in a cool perfectly dry
room, and the bag being tied should be changed upside down and back
every week, and well shaken. Soap should be cut with a wire or twine, in
pieces that form a long square, when first brought in, and kept out of
the air two or three weeks; for if it dry quick, it will crack, and when
wet break. Put it on a shelf, leaving a space between, and let it grow
hard gradually. Thus, it will save a full third in the consumption.
CHEESE should be washed and wiped if you wish to preserve it sound, and
the shelves be washed; changing the place every three or four weeks; but
if it be wanted to ripen, a damp cellar will bring it forward.

Bread is now so heavy an article of expense that all waste should be
guarded against, and having it cut in the room will tend much to prevent
it; since the scarcity in 1795 and 1800, that custom has been much
adopted. It should not be cut until a day old; earthen pans and covers
keep it best.

Rolls, muffins, or any sort of bread, may be made to taste new when two
or three days old, by dipping it uncut in water, and baking afresh or
toasting.

Eggs may be bought cheapest when the hens first begin to lay in the
spring, before they sit; in Lent and at Easter they become dear. They
may be preserved fresh by dipping them in boiling water, and instantly
taking them out, or by oiling the shell; either of which ways is to
prevent the air passing through it. They should be kept on shelves with
small holes to receive one in each, and be turned every other day.

Carrots, parsnips, and beet roots, should be kept in sand for winter
use, and neither they nor potatoes be cleared from the earth.

Store onions preserve best hung up in a dry cold room.

Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to prevent a musty taste.

Large pears should be tied up by the stalk.

Tarragon gives the flavour of French cookery, and in high gravies is a
great improvement; but should be added only a short time before serving.

Basil, savory, and knotted marjoram, or London thyme, to be used when
herbs are ordered; but with discretion, as they are very pungent.

Celery seeds give the flavour of the plant to soups.

Parsley should be cut close to the stalks, and dried on tins in a very
cool oven: it preserves its flavour and colour, and is very useful in
winter.

Artichoke bottoms which have been slowly dried, should be kept in paper
bags; and truffles, morels, lemonpeel, &c. in a dry place ticketed.

In towns, poultry being usually sold ready picked, the feathers, which
may occasionally come in in small quantities, are neglected: but orders
should be given to put them into a tub free from damp, and as they dry
to change them into paper bags, a few in each; they should hang in a dry
kitchen to season; fresh ones must not be added to those in part dried,
or they will occasion a musty smell, but they should go through the same
process. In a few months they will be fit to add to beds, or to make
pillows, without the usual mode of drying them in a cool oven, which may
be pursued if they are wanted before five or six months.

The best means to preserve blankets from moths is to fold and lay them
under the featherbeds that are in use, and they should be shaken
occasionally. When soiled, they should be washed, not scoured.

Candles made in cool weather are best; and when their price, and that of
soap, which rise and fall together, is likely to be higher, it will be
prudent to lay in the stock of both. This information the chandler can
always give; they are better for keeping eight or ten months, and will
not injure for two years, if properly placed in the cool; and there are
few articles that better deserve care in buying, and allowing a due
quantity of, according to the size of the family.

The price of starch depends upon that of flour; the best will keep good
in a dry warm room for some years; therefore when bread is cheap, it may
be bought to advantage, and covered close.

Pickles and sweetmeats should be preserved from air; where the former
are much used, small jars of each should be taken from the stock jar, to
prevent frequent opening.

Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should be pared, first to
preserve the peel dry; some should be halved, and when squeezed, the
pulp cut out, and the outsides dried for grating. If for boiling in any
liquid, the first way is best. When these fruits are cheap, a proper
quantity should be bought, and prepared as hereafter directed,
especially by those who live in the country, where they cannot always be
had; and they are perpetually wanted in cookery.

When whites of eggs are used for jelly, or other purposes, contrive to
have pudding, custard, &c. to employ the yelks also. Should you not want
them for several hours, beat them up with a little water, and put them
in a cool place, or they will be hardened and useless. It was a mistake
of old, to think that the whites made cakes and puddings heavy; on the
contrary, if beaten long and separately, they contribute greatly to give
lightness, are an advantage to paste, and make a pretty dish beaten with
fruit, to set in cream, &c.

If copper utensils be used in the kitchen, the cook should be charged to
be very careful not to let the tin be rubbed off; and to have them fresh
done when the least defect appears, and never to put by any soup, gravy,
&c. in them, or any metal utensil; stone and earthen vessels should be
provided for those purposes, as likewise plenty of common dishes, that
the table set may not be used to put by cold meat.

Vegetables soon sour, and corrode metals and glazed red ware, by which a
strong poison is produced.

Vinegar by its acidity does the same, the glazing being of lead or
arsenic.

In hot weather, when it is difficult to preserve milk from becoming
sour, and spoiling the cream, it may be kept perfectly sweet by scalding
the new milk very gently, without boiling, and setting it by in the
earthen dish or pan that it is done in. This method is pursued in
Devonshire, and the milk is not skimmed under twenty four hours, and
would equally answer in small quantities for coffee, tea, &c.

Cream already skimmed may be kept twenty four hours if scalded without
sugar, and by adding to it as much powdered lump sugar as shall make it
pretty sweet will be good two days, keeping it in a cool place. Syrup of
cream may be preserved as above in the proportion of a pound and quarter
of sugar to a pint of perfectly fresh cream, keep it in a cool place two
or three hours; then put it in one or two ounce phials, and cork it
close. It will keep good thus for several weeks, and will be found very
useful on voyages.

To cool liquors in hot weather, dip a cloth in cold water, and wrap it
round the bottle two or three times, then place it in the sun; renew the
process once or twice.

The best way of scalding fruits, or boiling vinegar, is in a stone jar
on a hot iron hearth, or by putting the vessel into a saucepan of water,
called a waterbath.

The beautiful green given to pickles, formerly was made by the use of
bell mettle, brass, or copper, and consequently very injurious to the
stomach.

If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c. be suffered to boil over,
the strength is lost.

Marbles boiled in custard, or any thing likely to burn, will, by shaking
them in the saucepan, prevent it.

Gravies or soups, put by, should be daily changed into fresh scalded
pans. When there is fear of gravy meat being spoiled before it be
wanted, season it well, and lightly fry it, which will preserve it two
days longer; but the gravy is best when the juices are fresh. A receipt
for gravy that will keep a week is given under the article of SAUCES.

The cook should be encouraged to be careful of coals and cinders: for
the latter there is a new contrivance to sift, without dispersing the
dust of the ashes, by means of a covered tin bucket.

Small coal wetted makes the strongest fire for the back, but must remain
untouched until it cake. Cinders, lightly wet, give a great degree of
heat, and are better than coal for furnaces, ironing stoves, and ovens.

The cook should be charged to take care of jelly bags, tapes for the
collared things, &c. which, if not perfectly scalded, and kept dry, give
an unpleasant flavour when next used.

Cold water thrown on cast iron, when hot, will cause it to crack.

Hard water spoils the colour of vegetables; a pinch of pearlash, or salt
of wormwood, will prevent that effect.

When sirloins of beef, loins of veal or mutton, come in, part of the
suet may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify; dripping will baste
every thing as well as butter, fowls and game excepted; and for kitchen
pies, nothing else should be used.

The fat off a neck or loin of mutton makes a far lighter pudding than
suet.

Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched should be soaked in cold
water two or three hours before they are used, or more if much iced.
When put into hot water or to the fire until thawed, no heat will dress
them properly.

Meat should be well examined, when it comes in warm weather; and if
flies have touched it, the part must be cut off, and then well washed.
In the height of summer, it is a very safe way to let meat that is to be
salted lie an hour in the coldest water, rubbing it well there in any
part likely to have been flyblown; then wipe it perfectly dry, and have
ready salt, and rub it thoroughly into every part, leaving a handful
over it besides. Turn it every day, and rub the pickle in, which will
make it ready for the table in three or four days; if it is desired to
be very much corned, wrap it in a well floured cloth, having rubbed it
previously with salt. The latter method will corn fresh beef fit for
table the day it comes in; but it must be put into the pot when the
water boils.

If the weather permits, meat eats much better for hanging two or three
days before it be salted.

The water in which meat has boiled makes an excellent soup for the poor,
when vegetables, oatmeal or pease, are added, and should not be cleared
from the fat.

Roast beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make fine pease soup, and
should be boiled with the pease the day before eaten, that the fat may
be removed.

The mistress of the house will find many great advantages in visiting
her larder daily, before she orders her bill of fare: she will see what
things require dressing, and thereby guard against their being spoiled.
Many articles may be re-dressed in a different form from that in which
they were first served, and improve the appearance of the table without
increasing expense. Many dishes require to be made of dressed meat or
fowls. Directions for several are hereafter given.

In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goes farthest; cutting
out most advantageously, and affording most nourishment. Round of beef,
fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, bear a higher price; but having more
solid meat, deserve the preference. It is worth notice, however, that
those joints which are inferior may be dressed as palatably, and being
cheaper, ought to be bought in turn; and, when weighed with the prime
pieces, the price of the latter is reduced.

In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs by the bone should be taken
out, being apt to taint; as likewise the kernels of beef. Rumps and
aitchbones of beef are often bruised by the blows the drovers give, and
that part always taints: avoid purchasing such.

The shank bones of mutton should be saved, and, after soaking and
brushing, may be added to give richness to gravies or soups; and they
are particularly nourishing for the sick.

The feet of pork make various good dishes, and should be cut off before
the legs be cured. Observe the same of the ears.

Calves’ tongues, salted, make a more useful dish than when dressed with
the brains, which may be served without.

Some people like neats’ tongues cured with the root, in which case they
look much larger; but should the contrary be approved, the root must be
cut off close to the gullet, next to the tongue, but without taking away
the fat under the tongue. The root must be soaked in salt and water, and
extremely well cleaned before it be dressed as hereafter directed: and
the tongue laid in salt for a day and night before pickled.

Great attention is requisite in salting meat; and in the country, where
great quantities are cured, it is of still more importance. Beef and
pork should be well sprinkled, and a few hours after hung to drain,
before it be rubbed with the preserving salts; which mode, by cleansing
the meat from the blood, tends to keep it from tasting strong. It should
be turned daily, and if wanted soon, rubbed. A salting tub, or lead, may
be used, and a cover should fit close. Those who use a good deal of salt
meat will find it answer well to boil up the pickle, skim, and, when
cold, pour it over meat that has been sprinkled and drained. Salt is so
greatly increased in price, from the heavy duties, as to require
additional care, and the brine ought not to be thrown away, as is the
practice of some, after once using.

In some families great loss is sustained by the spoiling of meat. The
best mode to keep that which is to be eaten unsalted is, as before
directed, to examine it well; wipe it daily, and pound some charcoal,
and throw over it. If meat is brought from a distance in warm weather,
the butcher should be charged to cover it close, and bring it early in
the morning; but even then, if it be kept on the road, while he serves
the customers who are nearest to him, it will probably be flyblown. This
is most frequent in the country.

Mutton will keep long by washing with vinegar, and peppering the broad
end of the leg; if any damp appears, wipe it immediately. If rubbed with
salt lightly, it will not eat the worse. Boiled in seawater, is by some
much admired.

Game is often brought in when not likely to keep a day, in the cook’s
apprehension; yet may be preserved two or three days, if wanted, by the
following method:

If birds, (woodcocks and snipes excepted, which must not be drawn) draw
them, pick, and take out the crop; wash them in two or three waters, and
rub them with a little salt. Have ready a large saucepan of boiling
water, and plunge them in one by one; boil each five minutes, moving it,
that the water may go through them. When all are finished, hang them by
the heads in a cold place; when drained, pepper the inside and necks.
When to be roasted, wash to take off the pepper. The most delicate
birds, even grouse, may be kept this way, if not putrid. Birds that live
by suction, &c. bear being high; it is probable that the heat might
cause them to taint more, as a free passage for the scalding water could
not be obtained. Hares ought not to be paunched in the field, as they
keep longer, and eat much better without. But that is seldom in the
cook’s power to guard against. She should take out the liver and heart,
and parboil the former to keep for stuffing, wipe the inside every day,
quite dry, put a bunch of parsley, or some pepper, or both; thus it will
keep long, especially if the seasoning be rubbed early on the inside to
prevent any mustiness of taste, which often is communicated to the
stuffing by this omission, and want of extreme nicety in washing it in
water and vinegar before it be dressed, while the outside has been
preserved fresh by the skin. If old, a hare should be kept as long as
possible, except for soup, or jugging; and after soaking, in vinegar, be
well larded.

Freshwater fish has often a muddy taste; to take off which, soak it in
strong salt and water, or, if of a size to bear it, give it a scald in
the same, after extremely good cleaning and washing. The latter for carp
or eels.

Turbot will hang three or four days, if lightly rubbed with salt, and be
in quite as great perfection as the first day.

Fish may sometimes be bought reasonably by taking more than can be
dressed at once; when recourse may be had to pickling, potting, or
frying, to keep for stewing a succeeding day.

When thunder or hot weather causes beer to turn sour, half, or a whole
teaspoonful of salt of wormwood should be put into a jug, and let the
beer be drawn in it as small a time as possible before it be drank.

If the subject of servants be thought ill timed in a book upon family
arrangement, it must be by those who do not recollect that the
regularity and good management of the heads will be insufficient, if not
seconded by those who are to execute orders. It behoves every person to
be extremely careful who they take into their employ; to be very minute
in investigating the character they receive; and equally cautious to be
scrupulously just in giving one to others. Were this attended to, many
bad people would be incapacitated from doing mischief, by abusing the
trust reposed in them. And it may be fairly asserted, that the robbery,
or waste (which is but a milder epithet) of an unfaithful servant, will
be laid to the charge of the master or mistress, who, knowing such
faults in him, or even having only well grounded suspicions, is led by
entreaty or false pity, to slide him into another place. To refuse
countenance to the evil, is to encourage the good servant; such as are
honest, frugal, and attentive to their duties, should be liberally
rewarded: and such discrimination would encourage merit, and inspire
servants with a zeal to acquit themselves with fidelity.

On the other side it may be proper to observe, that a retributive
justice usually marks persons in that station sooner or later even in
this world. Those who are extravagant and idle in their servitude, are
ill prepared for the industry and sobriety on which their own future
welfare much depends; their faults, and the attendant punishment, come
home when they have families of their own, and sometimes much sooner.
They will see their wickedness or folly in the conduct of their
offspring, whom they must not expect to be better than the examples that
are set them.

It was the observation of a sensible woman, that she could always read
the fate of her servants when they married from her; those who had been
faithful and industrious in her service, continued their good habits in
their own families, and became respectable members of the community;
those who had been unfaithful servants, never were successful, and not
unfrequently were reduced to the parish.

The manner of carving is not only a very essential knowledge in point of
doing the honours of the table with grace, but makes a great difference
in the family consumption; and, though in large companies, a lady is so
much assisted as to make the art of less consequence, yet she should not
fail to acquaint herself with an attainment of which she must daily feel
the want. Some people haggle meat so as not to be able to help six times
from a large tongue, or a piece of beef. It is to be observed that a
thin sharp carving knife, and with a very little strength to the
management of it, will cut deep thin slices, cause the joint to look
neatly, and leave sufficient for a second helping, instead of that
disgusting appearance which is sometimes observable. Habit alone can
make people carve, or do the honours of a table well; for those who have
not had practice, there are very good directions in a little book of
Trusler’s.

In the following, and indeed all other receipts, though the quantities
may be as accurately set down as possible, yet much must be left to the
discretion of the person who uses them. The different taste of people
requires more or less of the flavour of spices, garlic, butter, &c.
which can never be directed by general rules; and if the cook has not a
good taste, and attention to that of her employers, not all the
ingredients with which nature or art can furnish her, will give an
exquisite relish to her dishes. The proper articles should be at hand,
and she must proportion them until the true zest be obtained.

DOMESTIC COOKERY.

FISH.

_To boil Turbot._

The turbot kettle must be of a proper size, and in the nicest order. Set
the fish in cold water to cover it completely: throw a handful of salt
and one glass of vinegar into it; let it gradually boil; be very careful
that there fall no blacks, but skim it well, and preserve the beauty of
the colour.

Serve it garnished with a complete fringe of curled parsley, lemon, and
horseradish.

The sauce must be the finest lobster, and anchovy butter, and plain
butter, served plentifully in separate tureens.

_To stew Lamprey, as at Worcester._

After cleaning the fish carefully, remove the cartilage which runs down
the back, and season with a small quantity of cloves, mace, nutmeg,
pepper, and pimento. Put it in a small stewpot, with very strong beef
gravy, with port and equal quantity of Madeira or sherry wine.

It must be covered; stew till tender; then take out the lamprey and keep
it hot, while you boil up the liquor with two or three anchovies
chopped, and some flour and butter: strain the gravy through a sieve,
and add lemon juice and some made mustard. Serve with sippets of bread
and horseradish.

Eels, soals, and carp, done the same way, are excellent. When there is
spawn, it must be fried and put round.

Note. Cyder instead of white wine will do in common.

_Eel Pye._

Cut the eels in lengths of two or three inches: season with pepper and
salt, and place in the dish, with some bits of butter and a little
water, and cover it with paste.

_Spitchcock Eels._

Take a large one, leave the skin on, cut it in pieces of four inches
long, open it on the belly side, and clean it nicely: wipe it dry, and
then wet it with a beaten egg, and strew it over on both sides with
chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a very little sage, and a bit of mace
pounded fine, and mixed with the seasoning. Rub the gridiron with a bit
of suet, and broil the fish of a fine colour.

Serve with anchovy and butter for sauce.

_Fried Eels._

If small, they should be curled round and fried, being first dipped in
egg and crumbs of bread.

_Boiled Eels._

The small ones are preferable. Do them in a small quantity of water,
with a good deal of parsley, which should be served up with them and the
liquor.

Serve chopped parsley and butter for sauce.

_Eel Broth_,

Very nourishing for the sick.

As above; but to be stewed two hours, and an onion and peppercorns
added: salt to taste.

_Collared Eels._

Bone a large eel, but do not skin it: mix pepper, salt, mace, pimento,
and a clove or two, in the finest powder, and rub over the whole inside:
roll it tight, and bind it with a coarse tape. Boil it in salt and water
till enough; then add vinegar, and when cold, keep the collar in pickle.
Serve it whole, or in slices, garnished with parsley. Chopped sage,
parsley, and a little thyme, knotted marjorum, and savory, mixed with
the spices, greatly improve the taste.

_Perch and Tench._

Put them in cold water, boil them carefully, and serve with melted
butter and soy.

_Mackerel._

Boiled, and served with butter and fennel.

Broiled, being split and sprinkled with herbs, pepper and salt; or
stuffed with the same, crumbs and chopped fennel.

Collared, as eel above.

Potted. Clean, season, and bake them in a pan, with spice, bayleaves,
and some butter: when cold, lay them in a potting pot, and cover with
butter.

Pickled. Boil them; then boil some of the liquor, a few peppers,
bayleaves, and some vinegar: when cold, pour it over them.

_To pickle Mackerel, called Caveach._

Clean and divide, then cut each side in three; or, leaving them
undivided, cut each fish in five or six pieces. To six large mackerel,
take near an ounce of pepper, two nutmegs, a little mace, four cloves,
and a handful of salt, all in finest powder; mix, and, making holes in
each bit of fish, thrust the seasoning into them; rub each piece with
some of it; then fry them brown in oil; let them stand till cold, then
put them into a stone jar, and cover with vinegar: if to keep long, pour
oil on the top. This done, they may be preserved for months.

_To bake Pike._

Scale it, and open as near the throat as you can; then stuff it with the
following: grated bread, herbs, anchovies, oysters, suet, salt, pepper,
mace, half a pint of cream, four yelks of eggs; mix all, over the fire,
till it thickens, then put it into the fish, sew it up. Butter should be
put over in little bits: bake it. Serve sauce of gravy, butter, and
anchovy. _Note._ If, in helping a pike, the back and belly be slit up,
and each slice be gently drawn downwards, there will be fewer bones
given.

_Salmon to boil._

Clean it carefully, boil it gently, and take it out of the water as soon
as done; and let the water be warm if the fish be split.

Shrimp or anchovy sauce.

_Salmon to pickle._

Boil as above, take the fish out and boil the liquor with bayleaves,
peppercorns and salt; add vinegar when cold, and pour over the fish.

_Salmon to broil._

Cut slices about an inch thick; season, and put them into papers; twist
them, and broil gently. Serve in the papers. Anchovy sauce.

_Salmon to pot._

Take a large piece, scale and wipe, but do not wash it; salt it very
well: let it lie till the salt be melted and drained from it, then
season with beaten mace, cloves, and whole peppers. Lay in a few
bayleaves, put it close in a pan, and cover it over with butter, and
bake it. When well done, drain it from the gravy, put it in the pots to
keep; and when cold, cover with clarified butter.

Thus you may do any firm fish.

_Salmon to dry._

Cut the fish down, take out the inside and roe. Rub the whole with
common salt, after scaling it; let it hang to drain twenty four hours.
Pound three or four ounces of saltpetre, according to the size of the
fish, two ounces of bay salt, and two ounces of coarse sugar: rub these,
when mixed well, into the Salmon, and lay it on a large dish or tray two
days, then rub it well with common salt, and in twenty four hours more
it will be fit to dry: but you must dry it well after draining. Either
hang in a wood chimney, or in a dry place, keeping it open with two
small sticks.

_Lobsters to pot._

Boil them half, pick out the meat, cut into small bits: season with
mace, white pepper, nutmeg, and salt: press close into a pot and cover
with butter: bake half an hour: put the spawn in. When cold, take the
lobster out, and with a little of the butter put it into the pots. Beat
the other butter in a mortar with some of the spawn; then mix that
coloured butter with as much as will be sufficient to cover the pots,
and strain it. Cayenne may be added, if approved.

_Another way, as at Wood’s Hotel._

Take out the meat as whole as you can; split the tail and remove the
gut; if the inside be not watery, add that. Season with mace, nutmeg,
white pepper, salt, and a clove or two, in finest powder. Lay a little
fine butter at the bottom of a pan, and the lobster smooth over it, with
bayleaves between: cover it with butter and bake it gently. When done,
pour the whole on the bottom of a sieve, and with a fork lay the pieces
into potting pots, some of each sort with the seasoning about it. When
cold, pour clarified butter over, but not hot. It will be good next day;
or highly seasoned, and thick covered with butter, will keep some time.

The potted lobster may be used cold, or as a fricassee, with a cream
sauce, when it looks very nicely, and eats excellently, especially if
there be spawn.

Mackerel, herrings, and trout, are good potted as above.

_Stewed Lobster, as a very high Relish._

Pick the lobster, put the berries into a dish that has a lamp, and rub
them down with a bit of butter, two spoonfuls of any sort of gravy, one
of soy or walnut catsup, a little salt and Cayenne, and a spoonful of
port. Stew the lobster cut in bits with the gravy as above. It must be
dressed at table, and eaten immediately.

_Lobster Pie._

Boil two lobsters, or three small; take out the tails, cut them in two,
take out the gut, cut each in four pieces and lay them in a small dish.
Put in then the meat of the claws, and that you have picked out of the
body; pick off the furry parts from the latter, and take out the lady;
then take the spawn, beat it in a mortar, likewise all the shells. Set
them on to stew with some water, two or three spoonfuls of vinegar,
pepper, salt, and some pounded mace. A large piece of butter, rolled in
flour, must be added when the goodness of the shells is obtained. Give a
boil or two and pour into the dish strained: strew some crumbs over, and
put a paste over all. Bake slowly, but only till the paste be done.

_Curry of Lobsters or Prawns._

When taken out of the shells, simmer them as above.

_Buttered Lobsters._

Pick the meat out; cut it and warm with a little weak brown gravy,
nutmeg, salt, pepper, and butter, with a little flour. If done white, a
little white gravy and cream.

_Hot Crab._

Pick the meat out of a crab, clear the shell from the head, then put the
former, with a very small bit of nutmeg, salt, pepper, a bit of butter,
crumbs of bread, and three spoonfuls of vinegar, into the shell again,
and set it before the fire. You may brown it with a salamander.

Dry toast should be served to eat it upon.

_To dress Red Herrings._

Choose those that are large and moist; cut them open, and pour some
boiling small beer over them, to soak half an hour. Drain them dry, and
make them just hot through before the fire; then rub some cold butter
over them and serve. Egg sauce, or buttered eggs and mashed potatoes,
should be served with them.

_Baked Herrings or Sprats._

Wash and drain without wiping them. Season with Jamaica pepper in fine
powder, salt, a whole clove or two: lay them in a pan with plenty of
black pepper, an onion, and a few bayleaves. Put half vinegar and half
small beer, enough to cover them. Put paper over the pan, and bake in a
slow oven. If you like, throw saltpetre over them the night before, to
make them look red. Gut, but do not open them.

_To smoke Herrings._

Clean and lay them in salt, and a little saltpetre one night; then hang
them on a stick, through the eyes, on a row. Have ready an old cask, on
which put some sawdust, and in the midst of it a heater red hot; over
the smoke fix the stick, and let them remain twenty four hours.

_Fried Herrings._

Serve them of a light brown, and onions sliced and fried.

_Broiled Herrings._

Floured first, and done of a good colour. Plain butter for sauce. They
are very good potted like mackerel.

_Soals._

If boiled, they must be served with great care to look perfectly white,
and should be much covered with parsley.

If fried, dip them in egg, and cover them with fine crumbs of bread. Set
on a fryingpan that is just large enough, and put into it a large
quantity of fresh lard or dripping; boil it, and immediately slip the
fish into it. Do them of a fine brown. When enough, take them out
carefully, and lay them upon a dish turned under side uppermost, and
placed slantingly before the fire to drain off the fat. If you wish them
to be particularly nice, lay them on clean cap paper, and let lie some
minutes.

Observe, that fish never looks well if not fried in plenty of fat, and
_that_ boiling hot, before it be put into it. The dripping may serve
again with a little fresh. Take care the fat does not become black.
Butter makes every thing black that is fried in it. The soals should
just fit the inside of the dish, and a fringe of curled parsley garnish
the edge completely, which looks beautifully.

Soals that have been fried, eat good cold with oil, vinegar, salt, and
mustard. _Note._ Fine oil gives the finest colour, but is expensive.

_Stewed Soals, and Carp_,

Are to be done like lampreys.

_Soals, in the Portuguese way._

Take one large or two lesser; if the former, cut the fish in two; if
they are small, they need only be split. The bones being taken out, put
the fish into a pan, with a bit of butter and some lemonjuice: give it a
fry; then lay the fish on a dish, and spread a forcemeat over each
piece, and roll it round, fastening the roll with a few small skewers.
Lay the rolls into a small earthen pan; beat an egg and wet them, then
strew crumbs over, and put the remainder of the egg, with a little meat
gravy, a spoonful of caper liquor, an anchovy chopped fine, and some
parsley chopped, into the bottom of the pan; cover it close, and bake,
until the fish be done enough, in a slow oven. Then place the rolls in
the dish for serving; cover it to keep it hot until the gravy baked be
skimmed: if not enough, a little fresh, flavoured as above, must be
prepared and added to it.

The stuffing to be made as on the following page.

_Stuffing for Soals baked._

Pound cold beef, mutton, or veal, a little, then add some fat bacon,
that has been lightly fried, cut small, and some onions, a little
garlick or shalot, some parsley, anchovy, pepper, salt, and nutmeg.
Pound all fine with a few crumbs, and bind it with two or three yelks of
eggs.

The heads of the fish are to be left on one side of the split part, and
kept on the outer side of the roll; and when served, the heads are to be
turned towards each other in the dish.

Garnish with fried or dried parsley.

_Soal, Cod, or Turbot Pie: another sort of stuffing._

Boil two pounds of eels tender; pick all the flesh clean from the bones;
throw the latter into the liquor the eels were boiled in, with a little
mace, salt and parsley, and boil till very good, and come to a quarter
of a pint, and strain it. In the mean time cut the flesh of the eels
fine, likewise some lemonpeel, parsley, and an anchovy: put to them
pepper, salt, nutmeg, and some crumbs. Melt four ounces of butter and
mix, then lay it in a dish at the bottom: cut the flesh of two or three
soals clean from the bones, and fins; lay it on the forcemeat, and pour
the eelbroth in. The bones of the soals should be boiled with those of
the eels. You may boil them with one or two little eels, and pour it,
well seasoned, on the fish, and put no forcemeat.

_An excellent way of dressing a large Plaice, especially if there be a
roe._

Sprinkle it with salt, and keep it twenty four hours, then wash and wipe
it dry: wet it over with eggs; cover with crumbs of bread; make some
lard or fine dripping, and two large spoonfuls of vinegar boiling hot,
lay the fish in, and fry it a fine colour. Drain it from the fat, and
serve with fried parsley round, and anchovy sauce. You may dip the fish
in vinegar, and not put it in the pan.

_To fry Smelts._

They should not be washed more than necessary to clean. Dry in a cloth,
then lightly flour, but shake it off. Dip them in plenty of egg, then
into bread crumbs grated fine, and plunge them into a good pan of
boiling lard. Let them continue gently boiling, and a few minutes will
make them a bright yellow brown. Take care not to take off the light
roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be lost.

_Boiled Carp._

Serve in a napkin, and with the sauce directed for it among sauces.

_Cod’s head and shoulders_,

Will eat much finer, by having a little salt rubbed down the bone, and
along the thick part, even if to be eaten the same day.

Tie it up, and put on the fire in cold water which will completely cover
it: throw a handful of salt in it. Great care must be taken to serve it
without the smallest speck of black or scum. Garnish with a large
quantity of double parsley, lemon, horseradish, and the milt, roe, and
liver, and smelts fried, if approved. If the latter, be cautious that no
water hang about the fish, or the beauty of the smelts will be taken
off, as well as their flavour.

Serve with plenty of oyster or shrimp sauce, and anchovy, and butter.

Some people boil the cod whole; but there is no fish, that is more
proper to help, than in a large head and shoulders, the thinner parts
being overdone and tasteless before the thick be ready: but the whole
fish may be purchased, at times, more reasonably, and the lower half, if
sprinkled the least, and hung up, will be in high perfection one or two
days: or it may be made salter, and served with egg sauce, potatoes, and
parsnips.

_Crimp Cod._

Boil, broil, or fry.

_Cod sounds boiled._

Soak them in warm water till soft, then scrape and clean; and if to be
dressed white, boil them in milk and water, and when tender serve them
in a napkin. Egg sauce.

_Cod sounds ragout._

Prepare as above, then stew them in white gravy seasoned; cream, butter,
and a little bit of flour added before you serve, gently boiling up. A
bit of lemonpeel, nutmeg, and the least pounded mace, should give the
flavour.

_Curry of Cod_,

Should be made of sliced cod that has either been crimped, or sprinkled
a day to make it firm. Fry it of a fine brown, with onions, and stew it
with a good white gravy, a little curry powder, a bit of butter and
flour, three or four spoonfuls of rich cream, salt and Cayenne.

_Fish Pie._

Cod or Haddock, sprinkled with salt to give firmness, slice and season
with pepper and salt, and place in a dish mixed with oysters. Put the
oyster liquor, a little broth, and a bit of flour and butter, boiled
together, into the dish cold. Put a paste over; and when it comes from
the oven, pour in some warm cream. If you please you may put parsley
instead of oysters.

_Haddock._

Do the same as cod, and serve with the same sauce; or, stuff with
forcemeat as page eleventh. Or broil them with stuffing.

_Oysters to stew._

Open them and separate the liquor from them, then wash them from the
grit: strain the liquor, and put with the oysters a bit of mace and
lemonpeel, and a few white peppers. Simmer them very gently, and put
some cream, and a little flour and butter.

Serve with sippets.

_Scalloped Oysters._

Put them with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a bit of
butter, in scallop shells or saucers, and bake them before the fire, in
a Dutch oven.

_Oyster Patties or small Pie._

As you open the oysters, separate them from the liquor, which strain;
parboil them, after taking off the beards. Parboil sweetbreads, and
cutting them in slices, lay them and the oysters in layers: season very
lightly with salt, pepper, and mace. Then put half a teacup of liquor,
and the same of gravy. Bake in a slow oven; and before you serve, put a
teacup of cream, a little more oyster liquor and a cup of white gravy,
all warmed, but not boiled. If for patties, the oysters should be cut in
small dice, gently stewed, and seasoned as above, and put into the paste
when ready for table.

_Fried Oysters, to garnish boiled fish._

Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs; season it a very little; dip the
oysters in it, and fry them a fine yellow brown. A little nutmeg should
be put into the seasoning, and a few crumbs of bread into the flour.

_To pickle Oysters._

Wash four dozen of oysters in their own liquor; then strain, and in it
simmer them till scalded enough: take them out and cover them. To the
liquor put a few peppercorns, a blade of mace, a table spoonful of salt,
three of white wine, and four of vinegar: simmer fifteen minutes; and
when cold, pour it on the oysters, and keep them in a jar close covered.

_Another way._

Open the number you intend to pickle: put them into a saucepan, with
their own liquor, for ten minutes; simmer them very gently; then put
them into a jar, one by one, that none of the grit may stick to them,
and cover them, when cold, with the pickle thus made. Boil the liquor
with a bit of mace, lemon peel, and black peppers; and to every hundred,
put two spoonfuls of the best undistilled vinegar.

They should be kept in small jars, and tied close with bladder, for the
air will spoil them.

_Stuffing for Pike, Haddock, &c._

Of fat bacon, beefsuet, and fresh butter, equal parts; some parsley,
thyme, and savory; a little onion, and a few leaves of scented marjoram,
shred finely; an anchovy or two; a little salt and nutmeg, and some
pepper.

If you have oysters, three or four may be used instead of anchovies. Mix
all with crumbs of bread, and two yelks and whites of eggs, well beaten,
and parsley shred fine.

_Sprats_,

When cleaned, should be fastened in rows by a skewer, run through the
heads, and then broiled and served hot and hot.

Sprats baked, as herrings, page 8.

—— fried, as do. page 9.

_To dress fresh Sturgeon._

Cut slices, rub egg over, then sprinkle with crumbs of bread, parsley,
pepper, salt, and fold in paper, and broil gently.

Sauce; butter, anchovy, and soy.

_Thornback, or Skate_,

Should be hung one day at least, before it be dressed, and may be served
either boiled, or fried in crumbs, being first dipped in egg.

_Crimp Skate._

Boiled, and sent up in a napkin; or fried as above.

_Maids_,

Should be likewise hung one day at least. May be boiled or fried; or if
of a tolerable size, the middle may be boiled and the fins fried. They
should be dipped in egg, and covered with crumbs.

OBSERVATIONS ON DRESSING FISH.

If the fishmonger does not clean it, fish is seldom very nicely done;
but those in great towns wash it beyond what is necessary for cleaning,
and by perpetual watering diminish the flavor. When quite clean, if to
be boiled, some salt and a little vinegar should be put to the water to
give firmness; but cod, whiting and haddock, are far better if a little
salted, and kept a day; and if not very hot weather they will be good in
two days.

Those who know how to purchase fish, may, by taking more at a time than
they want for one day, often get it cheap, and that which will hang by
sprinkling, may then be bought to advantage.

The fish must be put into the water while cold, and set to do very
gently, or the outside will break before the inner part be done.

The fishplate on which it is done, may be drawn up to see if it be
ready; it will leave the bone when it is. It should be then immediately
taken out of the water, or it will be woolly. The fishplate should be
set crossways over the kettle, to keep hot for serving, and a clean
cloth should cover the fish to prevent its losing its colour.

Small fish, nicely fried in egg, and crumbs, make a dish of fish far
more elegant than served plain. Great attention should be paid to
garnishing fish; plenty of horseradish, parsley, and lemon.

When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is more attended to than
almost any other dish. The liver and roe should be placed on the dish,
so conspicuously that the lady may see them, and help a part to every
one. The sound of the cod, its head, and the head of carp are reckoned
the prime parts; and it is a part of necessary attention to help, or at
least offer some of the best to one’s friends; nor is it any excuse for
the mistress’s negligence, that it is the fashion of the present day for
those who sit at her right or left hand to help the company, which she
must see they do properly.

If salmon is to be dressed, great care is necessary that it be done
enough. No vinegar should be boiled with it.

If fish is to be fried or broiled, it must be wrapt in a nice soft
cloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. When perfectly dry, wet with
an egg, if the former way, and sprinkle the finest crumbs of bread over
it; then having a thick bottomed fryingpan on the fire, with a large
quantity of lard or dripping boiling hot, plunge the fish into it, and
let it fry middlingly quick, till the colour be a fine brown yellow, and
it be judged ready: if the latter take place first, the cook should draw
the pan to the side of the fire, lest the colour be spoiled. She should
then carefully take it up, and either place it on a large sieve turned
upwards, and to be kept for that purpose only, or on the underside of a
dish, to drain; and if wanted very nice, a sheet of cap paper must be
put to receive the fish, which should look a beautiful colour, and all
the crumbs appear distinct; the fish being free from all grease.

Garnish with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or parsley fried, which
must be thus done: when washed and picked, throw it again into clean
water; when the lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it
immediately from the water, and instantly it will be green, and crisp,
and must be taken up with a slice. This may be done after the fish is
fried.

If fish is to be broiled, it must be seasoned and floured, and put on a
gridiron that is very clean; and when hot, it should be rubbed with a
bit of suet to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled on a
very clear fire, that it may not taste of smoke; and not too near, that
it may not be scorched.

_An excellent imitation of Sturgeon._

Take a fine large, but not an old turkey; pick it most nicely; singe it,
and make it very clean; bone, wash, and dry it; tie it across and
across, with a bit of mat string, washed clean, as they tie sturgeon.
Put into a very nice tin saucepan a quart of water, the same of vinegar,
and of white wine, that is not sweet, and a very large handful of salt.
Let boil, and skim well, then put in the turkey: when done, take it out
and tighten the strings. Let the liquor boil half an hour after, and
when cold put it on the turkey. If salt or vinegar be wanting, add when
cold. This will keep some months. You eat it with oil and vinegar, or
sugar and vinegar. It is more delicate than sturgeon, and makes a pretty
variety, if the real is not to be had. Cover it with fennel when brought
to table.

ON DRESSING MEATS.

Wash all meats before you dress; if for boiling, the colour will be
better for soaking; if for roasting, dry it.

Boiling in a well floured cloth, will make meat white.

Particular charge must be given that the pot be well skimmed the
_moment_ it boils, otherwise the foulness will be dispersed over the
meat. The more soups or broths are skimmed, the better and cleaner they
will be.

The boiler and utensils should be kept delicately clean.

Put the meat in cold water, and flour it well first. If meat be boiled
quick it will be hard; but care must be taken that in boiling slow it
does not cease, or the meat will be underdone.

If the steam be kept in, the water will not much decrease; therefore
when you wish to evaporate, remove the cover of the soup pot.

Vegetables should not be dressed with the meat, except carrots or
parsnips with boiled beef.

Weigh the joint, and allow a quarter of an hour to each pound, and about
twenty minutes over. If for roasting, it should be put at a good
distance from the fire, and brought gradually nearer when the inner part
becomes hot, which will prevent its being scorched while yet raw. Meat
should be much basted, and when nearly done, floured to make it look
frothed.

Veal and mutton should have a little paper put over the fat to preserve
it. If not fat enough to allow for basting, a little good dripping
answers as well as butter.

The cook should be careful to spit meat so as not to run the spit
through the best parts; and she should observe that her spit be well
cleaned before, and when she is going to serve, or a black stain appears
on the meat. In many joints the spit will pass into the bones, and run
along them for some distance, so as not to injure the prime of the meat;
and she should have leaden skewers to enable her to balance it; for want
of which, ignorant servants often are foiled in the time of serving.

In roasting meat, it is a very good way to put a little salt and water
into the dripping pan, and baste for a little while with it before it be
done with its own fat or dripping. When dry, dust it with flour, and
baste as usual.

Time, distance, basting often, and a clear fire, of a proper size for
what is required, are the first articles of a good cook’s attention in
roasting.

Old meats do not require so much dressing as young: not that they are
sooner done, but they can be eaten with the gravy more in.

Be careful in roasting wild fowls to keep a clear brisk fire. Roast them
of a light brown, but not till their gravy runs; they loose their fine
flavour if too much done. Tame fowls require more roasting: they are a
long time before they are hot through, and must be often basted to keep
up a froth, and it makes the colour better. Pigs and geese require a
brisk fire, and to be turned quick.

Hares and rabbits require time, and care to turn the two ends to the
fire, which are less likely to be done enough than the middle part.

Choose mutton by the fineness of its grain, the deep red of the flesh,
and bright whiteness of the fat. For roasting, it should hang as long as
it will keep, the hind quarter especially, but not so as to taint; for,
whatever fashion may authorize, putrid juices ought not to be conveyed
into the stomach.

Mutton, for boiling, will not look of a good colour if it has long hung.
Small mutton is preferred.

Great care should be taken to preserve by paper the fat of what is
roasted.

_To keep Venison._

Preserve the venison dry; wash it with milk and water very clean; dry it
with clean cloths, till not the least damp remain. Then dust pounded
ginger over every part, which is a good preventive against the fly. By
thus managing and watching, it will hang a fortnight. When to be used,
wash it with a little lukewarm water, and dry it.

_Venison._

A haunch of buck will take about three hours and three quarters
roasting; doe, three hours and a quarter. Put a coarse paste of brown
flour and water, and a paper over that, to cover all the fat: baste it
well with dripping, and keep it at a distance to get hot at the bone by
degrees. When nearly done, remove the covering, and baste it with
butter, and froth it up before you serve.

Gravy for it should be put into a boat, and not in the dish (unless
there be none in the venison), and made thus: cut off the fat from two
or three pounds of a loin of old mutton, and set it in steaks on a
gridiron for a few minutes, just to brown one side: put them in a
saucepan, with a quart of water: cover quite close for an hour, and
gently simmer it; then uncover, and stew till the gravy be reduced to a
point. Season with only salt.

Currantjelly sauce must be served in a boat.

Formerly pap sauce was eaten with venison, which, as some still like it,
may be necessary to direct. Grate white bread, and boil it with port and
water, a large stick of cinnamon; and when quite smooth, remove the
latter, and add sugar. Claret wine may be used for it.

Make the jelly sauce thus. Beat some currantjelly, and a spoonful or two
of port, then set it over the fire till melted. Where jelly runs short,
put more wine, and a few lumps of sugar to the jelly, and melt as above.

_To make a Pasty of Beef or Mutton, to eat as well as Venison._

Bone a small rump, or a piece of sirloin of beef, or a fat loin of
mutton: the former is better than mutton, after hanging several days, if
the weather permits. Beat it very well with a rolling pin, then rub ten
pounds of meat with four ounces of sugar, and pour over it a glass of
port wine, and the same of vinegar. Let it lie five days and nights:
wash and wipe the meat very dry, and season it very high with pepper,
Jamaica pepper, nutmeg, and salt. Lay in your dish, and to ten pounds
put one pound or near of butter, spreading it over the meat. Put a crust
round the edges, and cover with a thick one, or it will be overdone
before the meat be soaked. It must be done in a slow oven.

Set the bones in a pan in the oven, with no more water than will cover
them, and one glass of port wine, a little pepper and salt, that you may
have a little rich gravy to add to the pasty when drawn.

_Note._ Sugar gives a greater shortness, and better flavor to meats than
salt, too great a quantity of which hardens; and it is quite as great a
preservative.

_Haunch, Neck and Shoulders of Venison._

Roast with paste, as directed above, and the same sauce.

_Stewed Shoulder._

Let the meat hang till you judge proper to dress it, then take out the
bone: beat the meat with a rolling pin. Lay some slices of mutton fat,
that has lain a few hours in a little port wine, among it: sprinkle a
little black and Jamaica pepper over it, in finest powder: roll it up
tight, and fillet it. Set it in a stewpan that will only just hold it,
with some mutton or beef gravy, not strong, half a pint of port, and
some pepper and pimento. Simmer, close covered, and as slow as you can,
for three or four hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, set the
meat on a dish, and strain the gravy over. Serve with currantjelly
sauce.

This is the best way to dress this joint, unless it be very fat, and
then it should be roasted. The bone should be stewed with it.

_To prepare Venison for Pasty._

Take the bones out, then season and beat the meat. Lay it in a stone jar
in large pieces: pour upon it some plain drawn beef gravy, but not a
strong one: lay the bones on top, then set the jar in a waterbath, that
is, a saucepan of water over the fire; simmer three or four hours; then
leave it in a cold place till next day. Remove the cake of fat, and lay
the meat in handsome pieces on the dish: if not sufficiently seasoned,
add more pepper, salt, or pimento, as necessary. Put some of the gravy,
and keep the remainder for the time of serving. If the venison be thus
prepared, it will not require so much time to bake, or such a very thick
crust as is usual, and by which the under part is seldom done through.

_Venison Pasty._

A shoulder, boned, makes a good pasty; but it must be beaten and
seasoned, and the want of fat supplied by that of a fine well hung loin
of mutton, steeped twenty four hours in equal parts of rape, vinegar,
and port.

The shoulder being sinewy, it will be of advantage to rub it well with
sugar for two or three days; and when to be used, wipe it perfectly
clean from it, and the wine.

A mistake used to prevail, that venison could not be baked enough; but,
as above directed, three or four hours in a slow oven will be sufficient
to make it tender, and the flavor will be preserved. Either in shoulder
or side, the meat must be cut in pieces, and laid with fat between, that
it may be proportioned to each person, without breaking up the pasty to
find it. Lay some pepper and salt, at the bottom of the dish, and some
butter, then the meat nicely packed, that it may be sufficiently done,
but not lie hollow to harden at the edges.

The venison bones should be boiled with some fine old mutton. Of this
gravy put half a pint cold into the dish, then lay butter on the
venison, and cover, as well as line the sides with a thick crust; but do
not put one under the meat. Keep the remainder of the gravy till the
pasty comes from the oven; put it into the middle by a funnel, quite
hot, and shake the dish to mix well. It should be seasoned with pepper
and salt.

_An imitation of Venison Pasty._

Choose a large well fed loin of mutton; hang it ten days, then bone it,
leaving the meat as whole as possible. Cover it with brown sugar a day
and night; then lay it in a pickle of half a pint of port wine, and half
a pint of rape or common vinegar, twenty four hours more: then shake it
well in it to take off the sugar, but do not wash, only wipe it. Season
as above, and bake; making a gravy of the bones.

Crust for the pasty, see under the article of crusts.

_Hashed Venison_,

Should be warmed with its own, or gravy without seasoning, as before,
and only warmed through, not boiled. If there be no fat left, cut some
slices of mutton fat, set on the fire, with a little port wine and
sugar: simmer till dry; then add it to the hash, and it will eat as well
as that of the venison.

_Beef or Pork, to be salted for eating immediately._

The piece should not weigh more than five or six pounds. Salt it very
thoroughly just before you put it in the pot. Take a coarse cloth, flour
it well, put the meat in and fold it up close. Put it into a pot of
boiling water, and boil it as long as you would any salt beef of the
same size, and it will be as salt as if done four or five days.

_Beef Alamode._

Choose a piece of thick flank of a fine heifer or ox. Cut into long
slices some fat bacon, but quite free from yellow. Let each bit be near
an inch thick, and dip them in vinegar, and then in a seasoning ready
prepared of salt, black and Jamaica peppers and a clove in finest
powder, with parsley, chives, thyme, savory and knotted marjorum, shred
as small as possible, and well mixed. With a sharp knife make holes deep
enough to let in the larding; then rub the beef over with the seasoning,
and bind it up tight with tape. Set it in a well tinned pot over a fire
or rather stove. Three or four onions must be fried brown and put to the
beef, with two or three carrots, one turnip, and a head or two of
celery, and a small quantity of water. Let it simmer gently ten or
twelve hours, or till extremely tender, turning the meat twice.

Put the gravy in a pan, remove the fat, keep the beef covered, then put
them together, and add a glass of port wine. Remove the tape, and serve
with the vegetables: or you may strain them off, and send up fresh, cut
in dice for garnish. Onions roasted, and then stewed with the gravy, are
a great improvement. A teacup full of vinegar should be stewed with the
beef.

_Stewed rump of Beef._

Wash it well: season it high with pepper, Cayenne, salt, Jamaica pepper,
three cloves, a blade of mace, all in finest powder. Bind it up tight,
and lay it in a pot that will just hold it. Fry three large onions,
sliced, and put to it, with three carrots, two turnips, a shalot, four
cloves, a blade of mace, and some celery. Cover the meat with good beef
broth, or weak gravy. Simmer as gently as possible for several hours,
till quite tender. Clear off the fat, and add to the gravy half a pint
of port wine, a glass of vinegar, and a large spoonful of catsup; simmer
half an hour, and serve in a deep dish.

Garnish with carrots, turnips, or truffles, and morels, or pickles of
different colours cut small, and laid in little heaps separate, chopped
parsley, chives, beetroot, &c. If when done the gravy be too much to
fill the dish, take only a part to season for serving: the less wafer
the better; and to increase the richness, add a few beef bones and
shanks of mutton in stewing.

A spoonful or two of made mustard is a great improvement to the gravy.

Rump roasted is excellent; but in the country is generally sold whole
with the edgebone, or cut across instead of lengthways, as in London,
when there is one piece for boiling, and the rump for stewing or
roasting.

_Stewed Brisket._

Put the part that has the hard fat into a stew pot, with a small
quantity of water; let it boil up, and skim it thoroughly; then add
carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few peppercorns. Stew till
extremely tender; then take out the flat bones, and remove all the fat
from the soup. Either serve that and the meat in a tureen, or the former
alone, and the meat on a dish, garnished with some of the vegetables.
The following sauce is much admired, served with the beef. Take half a
pint of the soup, and mix with a spoonful of catsup, a glass of port
wine, a teaspoonful of made mustard, a little flour, a bit of butter,
and salt: boil all together a few minutes, then pour it round the meat.
Chop capers, walnuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, and chives or
parsley, small, and put in separate heaps over it.

_To salt Beef red, which is extremely good to eat fresh from the pickle,
or to hang to dry._

Choose a piece of beef with as little bone as you can, the flank is most
proper: sprinkle it, and let it drain a day; then rub it with common
salt, saltpetre, and bay salt, but of the second a small proportion; and
you may add a few grains of cochineal, all in fine powder. Rub the
pickle every day into the meat for a week, then only turn it.

It will be excellent in eight days. In sixteen, drain it from the
pickle, and let it be smoked at the oven mouth, where heated with wood,
or send to the baker’s. A few days will smoke it.

A little of the coarsest sugar may be added to the salt.

It eats well boiled tender with greens or carrots. If to be grated as
Dutch, then cut a _lean_ bit: boil it till extremely tender; and while
hot put it under a press. When cold, fold it in a sheet of paper, and it
will keep in a dry place two or three months.

_Pressed Beef._

Salt a bit of brisket, thin part of the flank, or the tops of the ribs,
with salt and saltpetre, five days; then boil it gently till extremely
tender. Put it under a great weight, or in a cheese press, till
perfectly cold.

It eats excellently cold, and for Sandwiches.

_Hunter’s Beef._

To a round of beef that weighs twenty five pounds, take three ounces of
saltpetre, three ounces of coarsest sugar, an ounce of cloves, one
nutmeg, half an ounce of pimento, and three handfuls of common salt, all
in the finest powder.

The beef should hang two or three days, then rub the above well into it.
Turn and rub it daily for two or three weeks. The bone must be removed
at first. When to be dressed, dip it in cold water to take off the loose
spice: bind it up tight with tape: put it into a pan, and a teacup of
water at bottom: put over the pan a brown crust and paper, and bake it
five or six hours. When cold, remove the paste and fillet.

The gravy is very fine, and a little of it adds greatly to the flavor of
any hash, soup, &c.

Both gravy and beef will keep some time. The latter should be cut with a
very sharp knife, and quite smooth, to prevent waste.

_Collared Beef._

Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow beef, but not too fat.
Lay it in a dish with salt, and saltpetre. Turn and rub it every day for
a week, and keep it cool. Then take out every bone and gristle; remove
the skin of the inside part, and cover it thick with the following
seasoning cut small: a large handful of parsley, the same of sage, some
thyme, marjorum, pennyroyal, pepper, salt and pimento. Roll the meat up
as tight as possible, and bind it; then boil it gently for seven or
eight hours. A cloth must be put round before the tape. Put the beef
under a good weight while hot, without undoing it; the shape will then
be oval. Part of a breast of veal, rolled in with the beef, looks and
eats very well.

_Beefsteak and Oyster Sauce._

Strain off the liquor from the oysters, and throw them in cold water to
take off the grit, while you simmer the former with a bit of mace and
lemonpeel; then put the oysters in, stew them a few minutes, and add a
little cream if you have it, and some butter, rubbed in a bit of flour;
let them boil up once, and have rump steaks, well seasoned and broiled,
ready for throwing the oyster sauce over the moment you are to serve.

_Staffordshire Beefsteaks._

Beat them a little with a rolling pin: flour and season them; then fry
with sliced onion to a fine light brown. Lay the steaks in a stewpan,
and pour as much boiling water over as will serve for sauce: stew them
very gently half an hour, and add a spoonful of catsup or walnut liquor
before you serve.

_Italian Beefsteaks._

Cut a fine large steak from a rump that has been well hung; or it will
do from any _tender_ part. Beat it, and season with pepper, salt and
onion. Lay it in an iron stewpan, that has a cover to fit quite close;
set it at the side of a fire, without water. Take care it does not burn,
but it must have a strong heat. In two or three hours it will be quite
tender, then serve with its own gravy.

_Beef Collop._

Cut thin slices of beef from the rump or other tender parts, and divide
them in pieces three inches long: beat with the blade of a knife, and
flour them. Fry the collops quick in butter two minutes; then lay them
in a small stewpan, and cover with a pint of gravy: add a bit of butter
rubbed in flour, pepper, salt, the least bit of shalot shred as fine as
possible, half a walnut, four small pickled cucumbers, and a teaspoonful
of capers cut small. Observe it does not boil; and serve the stew in a
very hot covered dish.

_Beefsteak Pudding._

Prepare some fine steaks as above: roll them with fat between, and if
you approve _shred_ onion, add a very little. Lay a paste of suet in a
bason, and put in the rollers of steaks: cover the bason with a paste,
and pinch the edges to keep the gravy in. Cover with a cloth tied close,
and let the pudding boil slowly, but for a length of time.

_Beefsteak Pie._

Prepare the steaks as above, and when seasoned and rolled with fat in
each, put them in a dish, with puff paste round the edges. Put a little
water in the dish, and cover it with a good crust.

_Baked Beefsteak Pudding._

Make a batter of milk, two eggs, and flour, or which is much better,
potatoes boiled and mashed through a colander. Lay a little of it at the
bottom of the dish, then put in the steaks prepared as above, and very
well seasoned; pour the remainder of the batter over them, and bake it.

_Podovies, or Beef Patties._

Shred raredone dressed beef, with a little fat: season with pepper,
salt, and a little shalot or onion. Make a plain paste, roll it thin,
and cut it in shape like an apple puff; fill it with the mince, pinch
the edges, and fry them of a nice brown. The paste should be made with a
small quantity of butter, egg, and milk.

_Beef Palates._

Simmer them in water several hours, till they will peel; then cut the
palates in slices, or leave them whole, as you choose, and stew them in
a rich gravy till as tender as possible. Before you serve, season with
Cayenne, salt, and catsup. If the gravy was drawn clear, add to the
above some butter and flour.

_Beef Cakes for side dish of dressed meat._

Pound some beef that is raredone, with a little fat bacon or ham. Season
with pepper, salt, and a little shalot or garlic: mix them well, and
make into small cakes three inches long, and half as wide and thick: fry
them a light brown, and serve them in a good thick gravy.

_Potted Beef._

Take two pounds of lean beef, rub it with saltpetre, and let it lie one
night; then salt with common salt, and cover it with water four days in
a small pan. Dry it with a cloth, and season with pepper: lay it into as
small a pan as will hold it; cover it with coarse paste, and bake it
five hours in a very cool oven. Put no liquor in.

When cold, pick out the strings and fat; beat the meat very fine with a
quarter of a pound of fine butter just warm, but not oiled, and as much
of the gravy as will make it into a paste. Put it into very small pots,
and cover them with melted butter.

_Another way._

Take beef that has been dressed, either boiled or roasted: beat it in a
mortar with some pepper, salt, a few cloves, grated nutmeg, a little
fine butter just warm.

This eats as well, but the colour is not so fine.

_Hessian Soup and Ragout._

Clean the root of a tongue very nicely, and half an ox head, with salt
and water, and soak them afterwards in plain water; then stew them in
five or six quarts of water till tolerably tender. Let the soup stand to
be cold: take off the cake of fat, which will make good paste for hot
meat pies, or serve to baste. Put to the soup a pint of split peas or a
quart of whole, twelve carrots, six turnips, six potatoes, six large
onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two heads of celery. Simmer them
without the meat, till the vegetables are done enough to pulp with the
peas through a sieve, when the soup will be about the consistence of
cream. Season it with pepper, salt, mace, pimento, a clove or two, and a
little Cayenne, all in the finest powder. If the peas are bad, the soup
may not be thick enough; then boil in it a slice of roll, and put
through the colander; or put a little rice flour, mixing it by degrees.

_The Ragout._

Cut the nicest part of the head in small thick pieces, the kernels, and
part of the fat of the root of the tongue. Rub these with some of the
same seasoning, as you put them into a quart of the liquor, kept out for
that purpose before the vegetables were added; flour well, and simmer
them till nicely tender. Then put a little mushroom and walnut catsup, a
little soy, and a glass of port wine, a teaspoonful of made mustard, and
boil all up together before served.

If for company, small eggs and forcemeat balls.

This mode furnishes an excellent soup, and a ragout at small expense,
and they are uncommon. The other part will warm for the family.

_Stewed Oxcheek plain._

Soak and cleanse a fine cheek the day before you would have it eaten.
Put it into a stewpot that will cover close, with three quarts of water:
simmer it, after it has first boiled up and been well skimmed. In two
hours put plenty of carrots, leeks, two or three turnips, a bunch of
sweet herbs, some whole pepper, and four Jamaica’s. Skim frequently.
When the meat is tender, take it out: let the soup go cold: remove the
cake of fat, and serve it separate or with the meat.

It should be of a fine brown, which may be done by burnt sugar, or by
frying some onions quite brown with flour, and simmering them with it.
The latter improves the flavour of all soups and gravies of the brown
kind.

If vegetables are not approved in the soup, they may be taken out, and a
small roll be toasted, or bread fried and added. Celery is a great
addition, and should be always served. Where it is not to be got, the
seed gives an equally good flavour, boiled in, and strained off.

_To dress an Oxcheek another way._

Soak half a head three hours, and clean it with plenty of water. Take
the meat off the bones; put it into a pan with a large onion, a bunch of
sweet herbs, some bruised pimento, pepper, and salt.

Lay the bones on the top: pour on two or three quarts of water: cover
the pan close with brown paper, or a dish that will fit close. Let it
stand eight or ten hours in a slow oven, or simmer it by the side of the
fire, or on a hot hearth. When done tender, let it go cold, having moved
the meat into a clean pan. Take the cake of fat off, and warm the head
in pieces in the soup. Put what vegetables you choose.

_Marrow Bones._

Cover the top with floured cloth: boil, and serve with dry toast.

_To dress the Inside of a cold Sirloin of Beef._

Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, in pieces as thick as your
finger, and two inches long. Dredge with flour, and fry in butter, of a
nice brown. Drain the butter from the meat, and toss up in a rich gravy,
seasoned with pepper, salt, anchovy, and shalot. On no account let it
boil. Before you serve, add two spoonfuls of vinegar.

Garnish with crimped parsley.

_Fricassee of cold Roast Beef._

Cut the beef into very thin slices: shred a handful of parsley very
small: cut an onion in quarters, and put all together into a stewpan,
with a piece of butter, and some strong broth. Season with salt and
pepper, and simmer very gently a quarter of an hour; then mix into it
the yelks of two eggs, a glass of port wine, and a spoonful of vinegar:
stir it quick, and, rubbing the dish with shalot, turn the fricassee
into it.

_To dress Cold Beef that has not been done enough, called Beef Olives._

Cut slices half an inch thick, and four square: lay on them a forcemeat
of crumbs of bread, shalot, a little suet or fat, pepper, and salt. Roll
them, and fasten with a small skewer. Put them into a stewpan, with some
gravy made of the beef bones, or the gravy of the meat, and a spoonful
or two of water, and stew them till tender. Fresh meat will do.

_To dress ditto, called Sanders._

Mince small beef or mutton, onion, pepper, and salt; add a little gravy:
put into scallopshells or saucers: make them three parts full; then fill
them up with potatoes, mashed with a little cream: put a bit of butter
on the top, and brown them in an oven, or before the fire.

_To dress ditto, called Cecils._

Mince any kind of meat, crumbs of bread, a good deal of onion, some
anchovies, lemonpeel, salt, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and pepper, and a
bit of butter warm, and mix these over a fire for a few minutes. When
cool enough, make them up into balls of the size and shape of a turkey’s
egg, with an egg. Fry them, when sprinkled with fine crumbs, of a yellow
brown, and serve with gravy as above.

_Minced Beef._

Shred fine the underdone part, with some of the fat. Put into a small
stewpan, some onion, or shalot, (a very little will do,) a little water,
pepper, and salt: boil till the onion be quite soft; then put some of
the gravy of the meat to it, and the mince. Do not let it boil. Having a
small hot dish, with sippets of bread ready, pour the mince into it; but
first mix a large spoonful of vinegar with it: or if shalot vinegar,
there will be no need of the onion, or raw shalot.

_Hashed Beef._

Do the same, only the meat is to be in slices; and you may add a
spoonful of walnut liquor or catsup.

Observe, that it is owing to boiling hashes or minces, that they are
hard. All sorts of stews, or meat dressed second hand, should only be
simmered; and the latter only hot through.

_To preserve Suet a twelvemonth._

As soon as it comes in, choose the firmest part, and pick free from skin
and veins. In a very nice saucepan, set it at some distance from the
fire, that it may melt without frying, or it will taste.

When melted, pour it into a pan of cold water. When in a hard cake, wipe
it very dry: fold it in fine paper, and then in a linen bag, and keep in
a dry, but not hot place. When used, scrape it fine; and it will make a
fine crust, either with or without butter.

_Round of Beef_,

Should be carefully salted, and wet with the pickle for eight or ten
days. The bone should be cut out first, and the beef skewered and
filleted, to make it quite round. It may be stuffed with parsley, if
approved; in which case, the holes to admit it must be made with a sharp
pointed knife, and the parsley coarsely cut and stuffed in tight. As
soon as it boils, it should be skimmed, and afterwards kept boiling very
gently.

_To roast Tongue and Udder._

After cleaning the tongue well, salt it with common salt and saltpetre
three days; then boil it, and likewise a fine young udder, and some fat
to it, till tolerably tender; then tie the thick part of one to the thin
part of the other, and roast the tongue and udder together.

Serve them with a good gravy, and currantjelly sauce. A few cloves
should be stuck in the udder.

This is an excellent dish.

_To pickle Tongues for boiling._

Cut off the root, leaving a little of the kernel and fat. Sprinkle some
salt, and let it drain from the slime till next day: then, for each
tongue, mix a large spoonful of common salt, the same of coarse sugar,
and about half as much of saltpetre; rub it well in, and do so every
day. In a week add another heaped spoonful of salt. If rubbed every day,
a tongue will be ready in a fortnight; but if only turned in the pickle
daily, it will keep four or five weeks without being too salt.

If you dry tongues, write the date on a parchment and tie on. Smoke
them, or plainly dry them, if you like best.

When to be dressed, boil it extremely tender: allow five hours; and if
done sooner, it is easily kept hot. The longer kept after drying, the
higher it will be: if hard, it may require soaking three or four hours.

_Another way._

Clean as above. For two tongues, one ounce of saltpetre, and one ounce
of sal prunella. Rub them well. In two days, having well rubbed them,
cover them with common salt. Turn them daily for three weeks; then dry,
rub in bran, and paper or smoke them. In ten days they will be fit to
eat if not dried.

_Beef Heart._

Wash with care. Stuff as you do hare, and serve with rich gravy, and
currantjelly sauce.

Hash with the same, and port wine.

_Tripe._

Tripe may be served in a tureen. Stewed with milk and onion till tender.
Melted butter for sauce.

Or, fried in small bits dipped in butter: or stew the thin part, cut in
bits, in gravy, and thicken with flour and butter, and add a little
catsup: or fricasseed with white sauce.

_Bubble and Squeak._

Boil, chop, and fry, with a little butter, pepper, and salt, some
cabbage, and lay on it slices of raredone beef, lightly fried.

In both the following receipts, the roots must be taken off the tongue
before salted.

_Stewed Tongue._

Salt a tongue with saltpetre and common salt for a week, turning it
daily. Boil it tender enough to peel. When done, stew it in a moderately
strong gravy. Season with soy, mushroom catsup, Cayenne, pounded cloves,
and salt if necessary.

Serve with truffles, morels, and mushrooms.

_An excellent mode of doing Tongues to eat cold._

Season with common salt and saltpetre, brown sugar, a little bay salt,
pepper, cloves, mace, and pimento, in finest powder, for fourteen days:
then remove the pickle, put it in a small pan, and lay some butter on
it; cover with a brown crust, and bake slowly till so tender that a
straw would pierce it.

The thin part of tongues, if hung up to become dry, grate as hung beef;
and likewise make a fine addition to the flavour of omlets.

_Leg of Veal._

Let the fillet be cut large or small, as best suits the number of your
company. The bone being taken out, fill the space with a fine stuffing,
and let it be skewered quite round, and send the large side uppermost.
When half roasted, if not before, put a paper over the fat, and observe
to allow a sufficient time, and to put it a good distance from the fire,
the meat being very solid. You may pot some of it.

_Knuckle._

As few people are fond of boiled veal, it may be well to leave the
knuckle small, and to take off some cutlets or collops, before it be
dressed; but as the knuckle will keep longer than the fillet, it is best
not to cut off the slices till wanted. Break the bones to make it take
less room; and, washing it well, put it into a saucepan with three
onions, a blade of mace or two, and a few peppercorns; cover with water,
and simmer it till thoroughly ready. In the mean time some macaroni
should be boiled with it, if approved; or rice, or a little rice flour,
to give it a small degree of thickness; but do not put too much. Before
it be served, add half a pint of milk and cream, and let it come up with
or without the meat.

Or, fry the knuckle, with sliced onion and butter, to a good brown, and
have ready peas, lettuce, onion, a cucumber or two, stewed in a small
quantity of water an hour, then add to the veal, and stew till the meat
be tender enough to eat, not to be overdone. Throw in pepper, salt, and
a bit of shred mint, and serve altogether.

_Cutlets Maintenon._

Cut slices about three quarters of an inch thick; beat them with a
rolling pin, and wet them on both sides with egg: dip them into a
seasoning of bread crumbs, parsley, thyme, knotted marjorum, pepper,
salt, and a little nutmeg grated; then put them in papers folded over,
and broil them; and have ready in a boat, melted butter, with a little
mushroom catsup.

_Cutlets another way._

Prepare as above, and fry them. Lay them in a dish, and keep them hot.
Dredge a little flour, and put a bit of butter into the pan, brown it;
then pour a little boiling water into it, and boil quick. Season with
pepper, salt, and catsup, and pour over them.

_Another way._

Prepare as before, and dress the cutlets in a Dutch oven. Pour over them
melted butter and mushrooms. Or, pepper, salt, and broil, especially
neck steaks. They are excellent without herbs.

_Collops dressed quick._

Cut them as thin as paper, with a very sharp knife, and in small bits.
Throw the skin, and any odd bits of the veal into a little water, with a
dust of pepper and salt: set them on the fire while you beat the
collops, and dip them in a seasoning of herbs, bread, pepper, salt, and
a scrape of nutmeg, having first wetted them in egg; then put a bit of
butter into a frying pan, and give the collops a very quick fry; for as
they are so thin, two minutes will do them on both sides. Put them into
a hot dish before the fire, then strain and thicken the gravy. Give a
boil in the fryingpan, and pour over the collops. A little catsup is an
improvement.

_Another way._

Fry them in butter, only seasoned with salt and pepper: then simmer them
in gravy, white or brown, with bits of bacon served with them.

If white, add lemonpeel and mace, and some cream.

_Veal Collops._

Cut long thin collops: beat them well, and lay on them a bit of thin
bacon the same size; and spread forcemeat on that, seasoned high, with
the addition of a little garlick, and Cayenne. Roll them up tight, about
the size of two fingers, but not more than two or three inches long. Put
a very small skewer to fasten each firm. Rub egg over them, and fry of a
fine brown, and pour over them a rich brown gravy.

_Scollops of cold Veal or Chicken._

Mince the meat extremely small, and set it over the fire, with a scrape
of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and a little cream, for a few
minutes; then put it into the scallopshells, and fill them with crumbs
of bread; over which put some bits of butter, and brown them before the
fire.

Veal or chicken, as above prepared, served in a dish, and lightly
covered with crumbs of bread fried (or they may be put on in little
heaps), look and eat well.

_Scotch Collops._

Cut veal in thin bits, about three inches over, and rather round: beat
with a rolling pin: grate a little nutmeg over them: dip in the yelk of
an egg, and fry them in a little butter, of a fine brown: pour it from
them; and have ready warm, to pour upon them, half a pint of gravy, a
little bit of butter rubbed into a little flour, to which put a yelk of
an egg, two large spoonfuls of cream, and a bit of salt. Do not boil the
sauce, but stir it until of a fine thickness to serve with the collops.

_Kidney._

Chop veal kidney, and some of the fat, likewise a little leek or onion,
pepper, salt. Roll it up with an egg into balls, and fry them.

Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal; or you may do it as follows:

Season a large slice of the fillet before dressed, with some mace,
peppercorns, and two or three cloves, and lay it close into a potting
pan that will but just hold it, and fill it up with water, and bake it
three hours. Then pound it quite small in a mortar, and add salt to
taste. Put a little gravy, that was baked, to it in pounding, if to be
eaten soon; otherwise only a little butter just melted.

When done, cover it over with butter.

_To pot Veal or Chicken with Ham._

Pound some cold veal or white of chicken, seasoned as above, and put
layers of it with layers of pounded ham, or rather shred: press each
down, and cover over with butter.

_Neck of Veal._

Cut off the scrag to boil, and cover it with onion sauce. It should be
boiled in milk and water. Parsley and butter may be served with it,
instead of the former sauce; or it may be stewed with whole rice, small
onions, and peppercorns, with a very little water; or boiled and eaten
with bacon and greens.

Best end, roasted, broiled as steaks, or made into pies.

_Breast of Veal._

Before roasted, if large, the two ends may be taken off and fried to
stew, or the whole may be roasted. Butter should be poured over it.

If any be left, cut the pieces in handsome sizes, and putting them into
a stewpan, pour some broth over it; or if you have none, a little water
will do. Add a bunch of herbs, a blade or two of mace, some pepper, and
an anchovy. Stew till the meat is tender: thicken with butter and flour,
and add a little catsup; or the whole breast may be stewed, after
cutting off the two ends.

The sweetbread is to be served up whole in the middle; and if you have a
few mushrooms, truffles, and morels, stew them with it, and serve.

Boiled breast of veal, smothered with onion sauce, is an excellent dish,
if not old, or too fat.

_Rolled Breast of Veal._

Bone it, and take off the thick skin and gristle, and beat the meat with
a rolling pin. Season with herbs chopped very fine, mixed with salt,
pepper, and mace. Lay some thick slices of fine ham, or roll into it two
or three calves’ tongues of a fine red, and boiled first an hour or two
and skinned. Bind it up tight in a cloth, and tape it. Set it over the
fire to simmer in a small quantity of water until it be quite tender.
Some hours will be necessary.

Lay it on the dresser with a board and weight on it till quite cold.

Pigs’ or calves’ feet, boiled and taken from the bones, may be put in or
round it. The different colours, laid in layers, look well when cut; and
yelks of eggs boiled may be put in, with beet root, grated ham, and
chopped parsley.

_Shoulder of Veal._

Cut off the knuckle of the shoulder, for a stew or gravy. Roast the
other part, with stuffing. You may lard it. Serve with melted butter.

Blade bone, with a good devil of meat left on, eats extremely well with
mushroom or oyster sauce; or mushroom catsup in butter.

_Different ways of dressing Calf’s head._

TO BOIL.

Clean it very nicely, and soak it in water, that it may look very white.
Take out the tongue to salt, and the brains to make a little dish. Boil
the head extremely tender; then strew it over with crumbs and chopped
parsley, and brown them; or, if preferred, leave one side plain.

Bacon and greens are to be served to eat with it.

The brains must be boiled, and then mixed with melted butter, chopped
scalded sage, pepper, and salt.

If any be left of the head, it may be hashed next day, and a few slices
of bacon just warmed and put round.

Cold calf’s head eats well.

_Hashed Calf’s Head._

When half boiled, cut off the meat in slices, half an inch thick, and
two or three inches long. Brown some butter, flour, and sliced onion,
and throw in the slices with some good gravy, truffles, and morels. Give
it one boil, skim it well, and set it in a moderate heat to simmer till
very tender.

Season with pepper, salt, and Cayenne, at first; and ten minutes before
serving, throw in some shred parsley, and a very small bit of tarragon,
and knotted marjorum, cut as fine as possible. Just before you serve,
add the squeeze of a lemon. Forcemeat balls and bits of bacon rolled
round.

_Mock Turtle._

Bespeak a calf’s head with the skin on: cut in half, and clean it well;
then half boil it. Have all the meat taken off in square bits, and break
the bones of the head: boil them in some veal and beef broth, to add to
the richness. Fry some shalot in butter: dredge in flour sufficient to
thicken the gravy, which stir into the browning, and give it one or two
boils: skim carefully, then put in the head. Put in a pint of Madeira
wine, and simmer till the meat be quite tender. About ten minutes before
you serve, put in some basil, tarragon, chives, parsley, Cayenne pepper,
and salt to your taste; and two spoonfuls of mushroom catsup, and one of
soy. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into the tureen, and pour the soup
upon it. Forcemeat balls, and small eggs.

_A cheaper way._

Prepare half a calf’s head, without the skin, as above. When the meat is
cut off, break the bones, and put into a saucepan, with some gravy made
of beef and veal bones, and seasoned with fried onions, herbs, mace, and
pepper. Have ready two or three ox palates, boiled so tender as to
blanch, and cut in small pieces; to which a cowheel, likewise cut in
pieces, is a great improvement. Brown some butter, flour, and onion, and
pour the gravy to it; then add the meats as above, and stew. Half a pint
of sherry wine, an anchovy, two spoonfuls of walnut catsup, the same of
mushroom, some chopped herbs as before. Balls, &c.

_Forcemeat as for Turtle, at the Bush, Bristol._

A pound of fine fresh suet, one ounce of ready dressed veal or chicken,
chopped fine, crumbs of bread, a little shalot or onion, salt, white
pepper, nutmeg, mace, pennyroyal, parsley, and lemon; thyme finely
shred: beat as many fresh eggs, yelks and whites separately, as will
make the above ingredients into a moist paste: roll into small balls,
and boil them in fresh lard, putting them in just as it boils up. When
of a light brown, take them out, and drain them before the fire. If the
suet be moist or stale, a great many more eggs will be necessary.

Balls made this way are remarkably light; but being greasy, some people
prefer them with less suet and eggs.

_Another Forcemeat, for Balls or Patties._

Pound cold veal or chicken: take out the strings: add some fat bacon;
and, if you like, the least portion of scraped ham: herbs, as for the
preceding: pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, crumbs of bread, a little
onion, and two eggs.

_Note._ When forcemeat is to be eaten cold, as in pies, bacon is far
better than suet, and the taste is always higher.

_Another Mock Turtle._

Put into a pan a knuckle of veal, two fine cowheels, two onions, a few
cloves, peppers, Jamaica peppers, mace, and sweet herbs: cover with
water, and then, tying a thick paper over the pan, set it in an oven for
three hours. When cold, take off the fat very nicely: cut the meat and
feet into bits an inch and half square: remove the bones and coarser
parts; then put the other on to warm, with walnut and mushroom catsup, a
large spoonful of each, half a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, a little
mushroom powder, and the jelly of the meat. When hot, if it want any
more seasoning, add it, and serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls, a
juice of lemon, and a spoonful of soy.

This is a very easy process, and the dish is excellent.

_Another Ditto._

Stew a pound and a half of scrag of mutton, with three pints of water to
a quart; then set the broth on, with a calf’s foot and a cowheel: cover
the stewpan tight, and simmer till you can cut off the meat from the
bones in proper bits. Set it on again, with the broth, a quarter of a
pint of Madeira or sherry wine, a large onion, half a teaspoonful of
Cayenne pepper, a bit of lemonpeel, two anchovies, some sweet herbs, and
eighteen oysters cut in pieces, and then chopped fine, a teaspoonful of
salt, a little nutmeg, and the liquor of the oysters: cover tight, and
simmer three quarters of an hour. Serve with forcemeat balls, and hard
eggs in the tureen.

_Note._ Cowheels, with veal or head, are a great improvement; and if not
too much boiled, have a very fine flavour stewed for turtle; and are
more solid than the calf’s feet.

_Calf’s Head Pie._

Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eating, with two onions, a few
isinglass shavings, a bunch of herbs, 2 blade of mace, and a few
peppercorns, in two quarts or less of water. Keep the broth for the pie.
Take off a bit of the meat for the balls, and let the other be eaten;
but simmer the bones in the broth till it is very good. Half boil the
head, and cut it in square bits: put a layer of ham at the bottom, then
some head, first fat then lean, with balls and hard eggs cut in half,
and so on till the dish be full; but be particularly careful not to
place the pieces close, or the pie will be too solid, and there will be
no space for the jelly. The meat must be first pretty well seasoned with
pepper and salt, and a scrape or two of nutmeg. Put a little water and a
little gravy into the dish, and cover it with a tolerably thick crust:
bake it in a slow oven; and when done, pour into it as much gravy as it
can possibly hold, and do not cut it till perfectly cold: in doing
which, observe to use a very sharp knife, and first cut out a large bit,
going down to the bottom of the dish; and when done thus, the different
colours, and the clear jelly, have a beautiful marbled appearance.

A small pie may be made to eat hot; which, with high seasoning, oysters,
mushrooms, truffles, morels, &c. has a very good appearance.

The cold pie will keep some days. Slices make a pretty side dish.

The pickled tongues of former calves’ heads may be cut in, to vary the
colour, instead of, or besides ham.

_Calf’s Head Fricasseed._

Clean, and half boil half a head. Cut the meat in small bits, and put
into a tosser, with a little gravy made of the bones, and some of the
water it was boiled in, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a blade of
mace. If you have a sweetbread, or young cockerels in the house, use the
cockscombs; having first boiled them tender and blanched. Season the
gravy with a little pepper, nutmeg, and salt: rub down some flour and
butter, and give all a boil together; then remove the herbs and onion,
and add a little cup of cream, but do not boil it in. Serve with small
bits of bacon rolled round, and balls.

_Veal Patties._

Mince some veal, that is not quite done, with a little parsley,
lemonpeel, a scrape of nutmeg, and a little salt: add a little cream and
gravy just to moisten the meat; and if you have any ham, scrape a little
bit and add to it. Do not warm it till the patties are baked; and
observe to put a bit of bread into each, to prevent the paste from
rising into cake.

_Fricandeau._

Cut a large piece out of the prime part of a leg of veal, about nine
inches long, and half as broad and thick: beat it with a rolling pin;
then lard it very thickly on one side and the edges. Put it in a small
stewpan, with three pints of water, a pound of veal cut in small bits,
and four or five ounces of lean ham, and an onion: simmer till the meat
be tender; then take it out; cover to keep it moist, and boil the gravy
till it be a fine brown, and much reduced: then put the larded meat back
into the gravy, and pour a little of it over with a spoon. When quite
hot, serve the meat and gravy round in the dish, with the following
sauce in a boat.

_Sorrel Sauce._

Wash a quantity of sorrel, and boil it tender in the smallest quantity
of water you can: strain and chop it: stew it with a little butter,
pepper, and salt; and if you like it high, add a spoonful of gravy.

Be careful to do it in a very well tinned saucepan; or if you have a
silver one, or a silver mug, it is far better; as the sorrel is very
sour, especially in spring.

_Veal Olives._

Cut long thin collops: beat them, and lay on them thin slices of fat
bacon, and over a layer of forcemeat seasoned high, with the addition of
shred shalot, and Cayenne. Roll them tight, about the size of two
fingers, but not more than two or three inches long: fasten them round
with a small skewer: rub egg over, and fry them of a light brown.

Serve with brown gravy.

_Calf’s Liver._

Sliced: seasoned with pepper and salt, and nicely broiled. Rub a bit of
cold butter on it, and serve hot and hot.

_Roasted._

Wash and wipe it: then cut a long hole in it, and stuff it with crumbs
of bread, chopped anchovy, herbs, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt,
pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg. Sew the liver up; then lard or wrap
it in a veal caul, and roast it.

Serve with a good brown gravy, and currant jelly.

_Sweetbreads._

Half boil, and stew in a white gravy. Add cream, flour, butter, nutmeg,
salt, and white pepper: or, in brown, seasoned: or, after parboiling,
cover with crumbs, herbs, and seasoning, and brown in a Dutch oven.
Serve with butter, and mushroom catsup, or gravy.

_Sweetbread Ragout._

Cut them about the size of a walnut: wash and dry them; then fry of a
fine brown. Pour to them a good gravy, seasoned with salt, pepper,
allspice, mushrooms, or the catsup. Strain, and thicken with butter, and
a little flour. You may add truffles, and morels, and the mushrooms.

_Veal Sausages._

Chop equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, a handful of sage, a
little salt, pepper, and a few anchovies. Beat all in a mortar; and,
when used, roll and fry it, and serve with fried sippets.

Spadbury’s veal and pork sausages, under the article of pork.

_To make excellent meat of a Hog’s Head._

Split the head, take out the brains, cut off the ears, and sprinkle it
with common salt for a day; then drain. Salt it well with common salt
and saltpetre three days; then lay salt and head into water (a small
quantity) for two days. Wash it, and boil it till all the bones will
come out: remove them, and chop the head as quick as possible; having
skinned the tongue, and taken the skin carefully off the head, to put
under and over. Season with pepper, salt, a little mace or Jamaicas. Put
the skin into a small pan: press the cut head in, and put the other skin
over: press it down. When cold, it will turn out and make a kind of
brawn. If too fat, you may put a few bits of lean pork to go through the
same process. Add salt and vinegar, and boil with some of the liquor for
a pickle to keep it.

_To scald a Sucking Pig._

The moment the pig is killed, put it into cold water for a few minutes;
then rub it over with a little rosin, beaten extremely small, and put it
into a pail of scalding water half a minute; take it out, lay it on a
table, and pull off the hair as quickly as possible. If any part does
not come off, put it in again. When perfectly clean, wash it well with
warm water, then in two or three cold waters, lest any flavour of the
rosin should remain. Take off the four feet at the first joint: make a
slit down the belly, and take out the entrails: put the liver, heart,
and lights to the feet; wash the pig well in cold water, dry it
thoroughly, and fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from the air.

_To roast a sucking Pig._

If you can get it when just killed, it is of great advantage. Let it be
scalded, which those who sell usually do. Then put some sage, crumbs of
bread, salt, and pepper in the belly, and sew it up. Observe to skewer
the legs back, or the under part will not crisp.

Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry; then have ready some butter,
in a dry cloth, and rub the pig with it in every part. Dredge as much
flour over as will possibly lie, and touch it no more till ready to
serve; then scrape off the flour, with the greatest care, with a blunt
knife: rub it well with the buttered cloth: take off the head while yet
at the fire, and take out the brains, and mix them with the gravy that
comes from the pig. Then take it up, and, without withdrawing the spit,
cut it down the back and belly: lay it in the dish, and chop the sage
and bread quickly, as fine as you can, and mix with a large quantity of
fine melted butter, which has very little flour. Put the sauce into the
dish after the pig has been split down the back, and garnished with the
two ears, and the two _jaws_; the upper part of the head being taken off
down to the snout.

In Devon, it is served whole if very small; the head only being cut off.

_Pettitoes._

Boil them, and the liver and heart, in a small quantity of water very
gently; then cut the meat fine, and simmer it with a little of the water
and the feet split, till the latter be quite tender. Thicken with a bit
of butter, a little flour, a spoonful of cream, a little salt, and
pepper: give a boil up, and pour over a few sippets of bread, and put
the feet on the mince.

_Porker’s Head roasted._

Choose a fine young head, clean it well, and put bread and sage as for
pig: sew it up tight, and put it on a string or hanging jack. Roast it
as a pig, and serve with the same sauce.

_Pig’s Cheek for boiling._

Cut off the snout, and clean the head: divide it, take out the eyes and
the brains, and sprinkling the head with salt, let it drain twenty four
hours. Salt it with common salt and saltpetre. Let it lie eight or ten
days, if to be dressed without stewing with peas; but less, if to be
dressed with peas; and it must be washed first, and then simmered till
all is tender.

_Collared Head._

Scour the head and ears nicely: take off the hair and snout, and take
out the eyes and the brain: lay it in water one night; then drain and
salt it extremely well with common salt and saltpetre, and let it lie
five days. Boil it enough to remove the bones, then lay it on a dresser,
turning the thick end of one side of the head towards the thin end of
the other, to make the roll of equal size, sprinkle it well with salt
and white pepper, and roll it with the ears; and if you approve, put the
pig’s feet round the outside when boned; or the thin parts of two
cowheels. Bind it in a cloth and with a broad tape, and boil it till
quite tender; then put a good weight upon it, and do not remove the
covering till cold.

If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it longer, and let the
proportion of saltpetre be greater, putting in some pieces of lean pork,
and then cover it with cowheel, to look like the horn.

This may be kept in or out of pickle of salt, and water boiled, with
vinegar; and is a very convenient thing to have in the house.

If likely to spoil, slice and fry it with or without butter.

_To roast a Leg of Pork._

Choose a small leg of fine young pork, cut a slit in the knuckle with a
sharp knife, and fill the space with sage and onion, chopped, and a
little pepper and salt. When half done, score the skin in slices, but do
not cut deeper than the outer rind.

Apple sauce and potatoes should be served to eat with it.

_To boil a Leg of Pork_

Salt it eight or ten days; when to be dressed, weigh it; let it lie half
an hour in cold water to make it white; allow a quarter of an hour for
every pound, and half an hour over from the time it boils up; skim it as
soon as it boils, and frequently after. Allow water enough. Save some of
it to make pease soup. Some boil in a very nice cloth, floured, which
gives a very delicate look.

Serve pease pudding and turnips.

_Different ways of dressing Pig’s Feet and Ears._

Clean them carefully, and soak them some hours: boil them tender, then
take them out; and with some of the water boil some vinegar and a little
salt, and when cold put over them. When to be dressed, dry them, divide
the feet in two, and slice the ears; fry and serve them with butter,
mustard, and vinegar. They may be done in butter or only floured.

_Feet and Ears Fricasseed._

Put no vinegar in the pickle, if to be dressed with cream. Cut the feet
and ears into neat bits, and boil them in a little milk; then pour that
from them, and simmer in a little veal broth, with a bit of onion, mace
and lemonpeel. Before you serve, add a little cream, flour, butter, and
salt.

_Jelly of Feet and Ears._

Clean and prepare as in the foregoing receipt; then boil in a very small
quantity of water until every bone can be taken out; throw in half a
handful of chopped sage, the same of parsley, a seasoning of pepper,
salt, and mace, in fine powder; simmer till the herbs are scalded, then
pour the whole into a melon form.

_Pork Steaks._

Cut them from a loin or neck, of middling thickness: pepper and broil
them, turning often. When nearly done, put the salt necessary, rub a bit
of butter over, and serve the moment they are taken off the fire; a few
at a time.

_To cure Hams. First way._

Hang them a day or two; then sprinkle with a little salt, and drain them
another day. Pound an ounce and a half of saltpetre, ditto petresalt,
half an ounce of sal prunel, and a pound of the coarsest sugar: mix
these well, and rub into each ham every day for four days, and turn it.
If a small one, turn it every day for three weeks: if a large one, a
week longer; but do not rub after four days. Before you dry it, drain
and cover with bran. Smoke it ten days.

_Another way. Second way._

Choose a leg of a hog that is fat and well fed: hang as above. To it, if
large, put, in fine powder, one pound of bay salt, four ounces
saltpetre, one pound of the coarsest sugar, and one handful of common
salt, and rub it thoroughly. Lay the rind downwards, and cover the
fleshy part with the salts. Baste it as often as you can with the
pickle; the more the better. Keep it four weeks in the pickle, turning
it daily. Drain and throw bran over it; then hang it in a chimney where
wood is burnt, and turn it sometimes for ten days.

_Another way. Third way._

Hang the ham and sprinkle with salt as above, then rub it daily with the
following in fine powder: half a pound of salt, ditto bay salt, two
ounces of saltpetre, and two ounces of black pepper, mixed with a pound
and a half of treacle. Turn it twice a day in the pickle, for three
weeks. Lay it in a pail of water for one night, wipe it quite dry, and
smoke it two or three weeks.

_Another way, that gives a high flavour. Fourth way._

When the weather will permit, hang the ham three days: mix an ounce of
saltpetre with one quarter of a pound of bay salt, ditto common salt,
ditto of coarsest sugar, and a quart of strong beer; boil them together,
and pour over immediately on the ham; turn it twice a day in the pickle
for three weeks. An ounce of black pepper, ditto of pimento, in finest
powder, added to the above, will give still more flavour. Cover with
bran when wiped, and smoke from three to four weeks, as you approve; the
latter will make it harder, and more of the flavour of Wesphalia. Sew
hams in hessings, i.e. coarse wrapper, if to be smoked where there is
strong fire.

_A method of giving a still higher flavour._

Sprinkle the ham with salt after it has hung two or three days: let
drain; make a pickle of a quart of strong beer, half a pound of treacle,
an ounce of coriander seeds, two ounces of juniper berries, an ounce of
pepper, ditto pimento, an ounce of saltpetre, half an ounce of sal
prunel, a handful of common salt, and a head of shalot, all pounded or
cut fine. Boil these together a few minutes, and pour over the ham: this
quantity for one of ten pounds. Rub and turn it every day, for a
fortnight; then sew it up in a thin linen bag, and smoke it three weeks.
Observe to drain it from the pickle, and rub it in bran previous to
drying.

_Hogs’ Cheeks to dry._

The snout being cut off, the brains removed, and the head cleft, but not
cut apart on the upper side, rub it well with salt. Next day remove the
brine, and salt it again; the following day cover the head with half an
ounce of saltpetre, two ounces of bay salt, a little common, and four
ounces of coarsest sugar. Let the head be often turned. In twelve days
smoke for a week like bacon.

_To dress Hams._

If long hung, put the ham into water a night, and either dig a hole in
the earth, or let it lie on damp stones, sprinkled with water to mellow,
two or three days, covering it with a heavy tub, to keep vermin from it.
Wash it well, and put it into a boiler with plenty of water. Let it
simmer four, five, or six hours, according to the size. When
sufficiently done, if before the time of serving, cover it with a clean
cloth doubled, and keep the dish hot over boiling water. Remove the
skin, and strew raspings over the ham. Garnish with carrot. Preserve the
skin as whole as possible, to keep over the ham when cold, which will
prevent its drying.

_The manner of curing Wiltshire Bacon._

Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off for twenty
four hours; then mix one pound and a half of coarse sugar, ditto of bay
salt, not quite so much as half a pound of saltpetre, and a pound of
common salt, and rub it well on the bacon, turning it every day for a
month; then hang it to dry, and afterwards smoke it ten days. The above
salts are for the whole hog.

_To pickle Pork._

The quantities proportioned to the middlings of a pretty large hog; the
hams and shoulders being cut off.

Mix and pound fine four ounces of saltpetre, one pound of coarse sugar,
one ounce of sal prunel, and a little common salt. Having sprinkled the
pork with salt, and drained it twenty four hours, rub it with the above,
and then pack the pieces light in a small deep tub, filling up the
spaces with common salt. Place large pebbles on the pork, to prevent its
swimming in the pickle which the salt will produce.

_Sausages._

Chop fat and lean of pork: season with sage, pepper, and salt; and you
may add two or three pimentos. _Half fill_ hog’s guts, that have been
soaked and made extremely clean: or the meat may be kept in a very small
pan, closely covered; and so rolled and dusted with a very little flour
before they are fried.

_An excellent Sausage to eat cold._

Season fat and lean pork with some salt, saltpetre, black and Jamaica
pepper, all in finest powder, and well rubbed into the meat. The sixth
day cut it small, and mix with it some shred shalot, or garlick, as fine
as possible. Have ready an ox gut that has been scoured, salted, and
soaked well, and fill it with the above stuffing: tie up the ends, and
hang it to smoke as you would hams; but first wrap it in a fold or two
of old muslin. It must be high dried. Some eat it without boiling,
others like it boiled first. The skin should be tied in different
places, making each link about eight or nine inches long.

_Spadbury’s Oxford Sausages._

Chop a pound and a half of pork, and the same of veal, cleared of skins
and sinews. Add three quarters of a pound of beef suet, mince and mix
them. Steep the crumbs of a penny loaf in water, and with a little dried
sage, pepper, and salt, mix with the meat.

_Black Puddings._

The blood must be stirred with salt till cold. Put a quart of it, or
rather more, to a quart of old grits, to soak one night; and soak the
crumbs of a quartern loaf in rather more than two quarts of new milk,
made hot. In the mean time prepare the guts, by washing and scraping
with salt and water, and changing the water several times. Chop fine a
little winter savory and thyme, a great deal of pennyroyal, pepper,
salt, a few cloves, allspice, ginger, and nutmeg. Mix these with three
pounds of beefsuet, and six eggs well beaten and strained, and then beat
the bread, grits, &c. all up with the seasoning. When well mixed, have
ready some hogs fat cut in large bits, and as you fill the skins put it
in at proper distances. Tie them in links, having only half filled them,
and boil them in a large kettle, pricking them as they swell, or they
will burst. When boiled, lay them between clean cloths till cold, and
hang them up in the kitchen. When to be used, scald them a few minutes
in water, wipe and put them in a Dutch oven.

If there are not sufficient skins, put the stuffing in basons, and boil,
covered with floured cloths; and slice and fry it when used.

_Black Puddings another way._

Soak a quart of bruised grits in two quarts of hot milk, or less, if
sufficient to swell them. Chop a good quantity of pennyroyal, some
savory and thyme; salt, pepper, and Jamaica pepper, finely powdered. Mix
the above with a quart of the blood, prepared as before: then half fill
the skins, after they have been cleaned most thoroughly, and put as much
of the leaf, i. e. fat of the pig, as shall make it pretty rich. Boil as
before directed.

_White Hogs’ Puddings._

When the skins have been soaked and cleaned as before directed, rinse
and soak them all night in rosewater, and put into them the following
filling; mix half a pound of blanched almonds, cut in seven or eight
bits, with one pound of grated bread, two pounds of marrow or suet, one
pound of currents, some beaten cinnamon, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, a
quart of cream, yelks of six, and whites of two eggs, a little orange
flour water, a little fine Lisbon sugar, some lemon peel, and citron
sliced, and half fill the skins. Boil as before directed.

_Hogs’ Lard._

Should be carefully melted in a jar, put into a kettle of water, and
boiled and run into bladders that have been extremely well cleaned. The
smaller they are, the better the lard keeps; as after the air reaches
it, it becomes rank. Put in a sprig of rosemary when melted.

This being a most useful article for frying fish, it should be prepared
with care. Mixed with butter it makes fine crust.

_Pig’s Harslet._

Wash and dry some liver, sweetbreads, and fat and lean bits of pork;
beating the latter with a rolling pin to make it tender. Season with
pepper, salt, sage, and a little onion, shred fine. Put all when mixed
into a cawl, and fasten it up tight with a needle and thread. Roast it
on a hanging jack, or by a string. Or serve in slices with parsley for a
fry.

Serve with a sauce of port and water, and mustard just boiled up, and
put into the dish.

_Loins and Necks of Pork, roast._

Shoulders and breasts put into pickle, or salt the former as a leg.

_Rolled Neck._

Bone it. Put a forcemeat of chopped sage, a very few crumbs of bread,
salt, pepper, and two or three pimentos over the inside: then roll the
meat as tight as you can, and roast it slowly, and at a good distance at
first.

_To make a Pickle for Hams, Tongues, or Beef, if boiled and skimmed
between each parcel of them, that will keep for years._

To two gallons of spring water put two pounds of coarse sugar, two
pounds of bay, and two and a half pounds of common salt, and half a
pound of saltpetre, in a deep earthen glazed pan, that will hold four
gallons, and has a cover that will fit close. Keep the beef or hams as
long as they will bear, before you put them into the pickle, and
sprinkle them with coarse sugar in a pan, from which they must drain.
Rub the hams, &c. well with the pickle, and pack them in close, putting
as much as the pan will hold, so that the pickle may cover them. The
pickle is not to be boiled at first. A small ham may lie fourteen days,
a large one three weeks; a tongue twelve days; beef in proportion to its
size. They will eat well out of the pickle without drying. When to be
dried, let each piece be drained over the pan, and when it will drop no
longer, take a clean sponge and dry it thoroughly. Six or eight hours
will smoke them; and there should be only a little sawdust and wet straw
burnt to smoke them; but if put into a baker’s chimney, sew them in
coarse cloth, and hang them a week.

_Excellent Bacon._

When the hog is divided, if a large one, the chine should be cut out.
The bacon will be preserved from being rusty, if the spareribs are left
in. Salt the bacon six days; then drain it from the first pickle. Mix as
much salt as you judge proper with eight ounces of bay salt, four ounces
of saltpetre, and one pound of coarse sugar, to each hog, the hams being
first cut off. Rub the salts well in, and turn it every day for a month.
Drain, and smoke a few days; or dry without, by hanging in the kitchen,
not near the fire.

MUTTON. _The Haunch._

Keep as long as it can be preserved sweet, by the different modes of
keeping. Let it be washed with warm milk and water, or vinegar, if
necessary; but soak off the flavour from keeping. Put a coarse paste on
strong paper, and fold the haunch in: set it at a great distance from
the fire, and allow proportionable time for the paste, which do not
remove till about thirty five or forty minutes before serving; then
baste it perpetually. You will have brought the haunch nearer to the
fire before you take off the paste, and must froth it up as you would
venison.

A gravy must be made of a pound and a half of loin of old mutton,
simmered in a pint of water to half, and no seasoning but salt. Brown it
with a little burnt sugar, and send it up in the dish: but there should
be much gravy in the meat; for though long at the fire, the distance and
covering will prevent its being done dry.

Serve with currantjelly sauce.

Legs roasted, and onion or currantjelly sauce: or, boiled, with caper
sauce and vegetables.

Necks are particularly useful, as so many dishes may be made of them;
but they are not advantageous for the family. The bones should be cut
short; which the butchers will not do unless particularly desired.

_Note._ When there is more fat to a neck or loin of mutton than is
agreeable to eat with the lean, it makes an uncommonly good suet
pudding, or crust for a meatpie, being cut very fine.

The best end of the neck boiled, and served with turnips: or roasted: or
in steaks, in pies, or harrico.

The scrag stewed in broth, or with a small quantity of water, some small
onions, a few peppercorns and a little rice, and served together.

_Harrico._

Take off some of the fat, and cut the middle or best end of the neck
into rather thin steaks. Put the fat into a fryingpan, and, flouring,
fry them in it of a fine light brown, but not enough for eating. Put
them in a dish while you fry the carrots, turnips, and onions; the
former in dice, the latter sliced; but they must only be warmed, not
browned, or you need not fry them. Then lay the steaks at the bottom of
a stewpan, the vegetables over, and pour as much boiling water on them
as will just cover: give one boil, skim well, and then set the pan on
the side of the fire to simmer gently till tender: in three or four
hours skim, and add pepper, salt, and one spoonful of catsup.

_Mutton Pie._

Cut steaks from a loin or neck of mutton: beat them and remove some of
the fat. Season with salt, pepper, and a little onion. Put a little
water at the bottom of the dish, and a little paste on the edge; then
cover with a moderately thick paste. Or raise small pies, and, breaking
each bone in two to shorten it, season and cover it over, pinching the
edge. When they come out, pour a spoonful of gravy, made of a bit of
mutton, into each. The mutton should have hung.

_Mutton and Potatoe Pie._

Season the steaks of a loin or neck; lay them in a dish: have ready
potatoes mashed very thick, with some milk, and a bit of butter and
salt, and cover the meat as with a very thick crust, and to come on the
surrounding edge.

_Mutton Pudding._

Season as above. Lay one layer of steaks at the bottom of the dish, and
pour a batter of potatoes boiled and pressed through a colander, and
mixed with milk and an egg, over them: then putting the rest of the
steaks, and batter, bake it.

Batter with flour, instead of potatoes, eats well, but requires more
egg, and is not so good.

_Mutton Sausages._

Take a pound of the rawest part of a leg of mutton that has been either
roasted or boiled: chop it extremely small: season with pepper, salt,
mace, and nutmeg. Add six ounces of beef suet, some sweet herbs, two
anchovies, and a pint of oysters, all chopped very small; a quarter of a
pound of grated bread, some of the anchovy liquor, and all that came
from the oysters; the yelks and whites of two eggs well beaten. Put it
all, when well mixed, into a little pot, and use it by rolling it into
balls or sausage shape, and fry them. If approved, a _little_ shalot may
be added; or garlick, which is a great improvement.

_Mutton Steaks_

Should be cut from a loin or neck that has hung. If the latter, the
bones should not be long. They should be broiled on a clear fire, and
seasoned when half done, and frequently turned; when, taking into a very
hot dish, rub a bit of butter on each, and serve hot and hot the moment
they are done.

They may be covered with forcemeat.

_Mutton Collops._

Cut from that part of a well hung loin of mutton which is next the leg,
some collops very thin. Take out the sinews. Season them with salt,
pepper and mace, and strew over them shred parsley, thyme, and two or
three shalots. Fry them in butter till half done. Add half a pint of
gravy, a little juice of lemon, and a piece of butter rubbed in flour,
and simmer the whole very gently five minutes. They should be served
immediately, or they will be hard.

_Lamb Steaks._

Fry a beautiful brown. Throw over them, when served, a good quantity of
crumbs of bread fried, and crimped parsley: the receipt for doing which
of a fine colour, is given under the article of vegetables.

Mutton and Lamb steaks, seasoned and broiled in buttered papers, either
with crumbs and herbs, or without, are a genteel dish, and eat well.

Sauce for them, called sauce Robart, under the list of sauces.

Saddle or Loin of mutton, roasted: the former a fashionable dish.

Shoulder of mutton, roasted, and onion sauce. Bladebone broiled.

_Shoulder of Mutton boiled with Oysters._

Hang it some days, then salt it well for two. Bone it, and sprinkle it
with pepper, and a bit of mace pounded. Lay some oysters over it, and
roll the meat up tight with a fillet. Stew it in a small quantity of
water, with an onion, and a few peppercorns, till quite tender.

Have ready a little good gravy, and some oysters stewed in it: thicken
with flour and butter, and pour over the mutton when the tape is
removed. The stewpan should be kept close covered.

_Breast of Mutton._

The superfluous fat being cut off, roast, and serve with stewed
cucumbers: or, to eat cold, having covered it with chopped parsley: or
half boiled, and then grilled before the fire, being covered with crumbs
and herbs, and served with caper sauce: or boned, a good deal of the fat
being taken off, and covered with bread, herbs, and seasoning; then
rolled, and boiled, and served with chopped walnut, or capers and
butter.

_Rolled Loin of Mutton._

Hang the mutton, to be tender. Bone it, and lay a seasoning of pepper,
pimento, mace, nutmeg, a few cloves, all in fine powder, over it. Next
day prepare a stuffing as for a hare, beat the meat, and cover it with
the stuffing, roll it tight, and fillet it. Half bake it in a slow oven:
let it grow cold: remove the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan:
flour the meat, and put in likewise; stew till near ready, and add a
glass of port wine, some catsup, an anchovy, and a little lemon pickle,
half an hour before serving, which do in the gravy, and with jelly
sauce. A few fresh mushrooms are a great improvement, but not if to eat
like hare, nor add the lemon pickle.

Rumps, kidneys, livers, and hearts, well washed, seasoned, and broiled,
and served with cold butter rubbed on them.

_Steaks of Mutton, or Lamb and Cucumbers._

Quarter cucumbers, and lay them in a deep dish; sprinkle them with salt,
and pour vinegar over. Fry chops of a fine brown, and put them in a
stewpan: drain the cucumbers, and put over the steaks: put some sliced
onions, pepper, and salt: pour hot water or weak broth on them: stew and
skim well.

_An excellent Hotch Potch._

Stew pease, lettuce, and onions, in a very little water, with a beef or
ham bone. While doing, fry some mutton or lamb steaks, seasoned, of a
nice brown. Three quarters of an hour before dinner put the steaks into
a stewpan, and the vegetables over: stew them, and serve all together in
a tureen.

_Another Hotch Potch._

Knuckle of veal, and scrag of mutton, stewed with vegetables as above.

_Mutton Ham._

Choose a fine grained leg of wether mutton, of twelve or fourteen pounds
weight. Let it be cut ham shape, and hang two days: then put into a
stewpan half a pound of bay salt, the same of common salt, two ounces of
saltpetre, half a pound of coarsest sugar, all in powder: mix and make
it quite hot; then rub it well into the ham, let it be turned in the
liquor daily. At the end of four days put two ounces more of common
salt: in twelve days take it out; dry, and hang it up in the wood smoke
a week.

_Mutton Cutlets in the Portuguese way._

Cut the chops, and half fry them, with sliced shalot or onion, chopped
parsley, and two bayleaves; seasoned with pepper and salt. Then lay a
forcemeat on a piece of white paper, put the chop on it, cover with
forcemeat, and twist the paper up, leaving a hole for the end of the
bones to go through. Broil on a gentle fire. Serve with sauce Robart;
or, as the seasoning makes the cutlets high, a little gravy.

_Lamb._

Leg boiled in a cloth to look as white as possible: the loin fried in
steaks and served round, garnished with dried or fried parsley. Spinach
to eat with it. Or dressed separately, or roasted.

_Lamb’s Head and Hinge._

That of a house lamb is best, but either, if soaked in cold water, will
be white. Boil the head separately till very tender, and have ready the
liver and lights cut small. After being three parts boiled, stew them in
a little of the water in which they were boiled. Season, and thicken
with flour and butter, and serve the mince round the head.

_Fore Quarter of Lamb._

Roasted whole, or separately. If left to be cold, chopped parsley should
be sprinkled over it.

_Lamb’s Fry._

Serve it fried a beautiful colour, and a good deal of dried or fried
parsley over it.

_Turkey to Boil._

Make a stuffing of bread, herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemonpeel, a few
oysters or an anchovy, a bit of butter, some suet, and an egg. Put this
in the crop, and fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured
cloth, to make it very white. Have ready a fine oyster sauce, made rich
with butter, a little cream, a spoonful of soy, if approved, and pour
over the bird. Or, liver and lemon sauce.

Hen birds are best for boiling, and should be young.

_Turkey to Roast._

The sinews of the legs should be drawn, whichever way it be dressed. The
head should be twisted under the wing; and in drawing, care should be
taken not to tear the liver, or let the gall touch it. Put a stuffing of
sausage meat; or, if sausages are to be served in the dish, a bread
stuffing. As this makes a large addition to the size of the bird,
observe that the heat of the fire be constantly to that part; for the
breast is frequently not enough done. A little strip of paper should be
put on the bone to prevent scorching, while the other parts roast. Baste
well, and froth it up. Gravy in the dish, and plenty of bread sauce in a
sauce tureen.

_Pulled Turkey._

Divide the meat of the breast by pulling instead of cutting; then warm
it in a spoonful or two of white gravy, a little cream, grated nutmeg,
salt, and a little flour and butter: warm, but do not boil it. The leg
seasoned, scored, and broiled, put in the dish, with the above round it.
Cold chicken does as well.

_Turkey Patties._

Mince some of the white parts, and with grated lemon, nutmeg, salt, a
very little white pepper, cream, and a very little bit of butter warmed.
Fill the patties; they having been first baked with a bit of bread in
each, to keep them hollow.

_Pheasants and Partridges._

Roast as turkey, and serve with a fine gravy: in which put the smallest
bit of garlick, and bread sauce. When cold, they may be made into
excellent patties, but their flavour should not be overpowered by lemon.

_Potted Partridge._

When nicely cleaned, season with the following, in finest powder: mace,
Jamaica pepper, white pepper, and salt. Rub every part well; then lay
the breasts downwards in a pan, and pack the birds as close as you
possibly can. Put a good deal of butter on them; then cover the pan with
a coarse flour paste, and a paper over: tie close and bake. When cold,
put into pots, and cover with butter.

_A very economical way of Potting Birds._

Prepare as before. When baked, and become cold, cut them in proper
pieces for helping, and pack them close into a large potting pot, and
leave, if possible, no spaces to receive the butter; with which, cover
them, and one third part less will be requisite than when done whole.

_To clarify Butter for potted things._

Put it in a sauce boat, and set that in a stewpan that has a little
water in, over the fire. When melted, observe not to pour the milky
parts over the potted things, they will sink to the bottom.

_Fowls._

Boiled, with oyster, lemon, parsley, and butter, or liver sauces; or
with bacon and greens.

_Ditto roasted._

Egg sauce, bread sauce, or garnished with sausages, scalded, and
parsley.

A large barndoor fowl well hung, stuffed in the crop with sausage meat,
and gravy in the dish, and with bread sauce.

The head should be turned under the wing.

Fowl split down the back, peppered, salted, and broiled. Serve it with
mushroom sauce.

_To boil Fowl with Rice._

Stew the fowl very slowly, in some clear mutton broth, well skimmed, and
seasoned with onion, mace, pepper, and salt. About half an hour before
it be ready, put in a quarter of a pint of rice, well washed and soaked.
Simmer till tender; then strain from the broth, and put the rice on a
sieve before the fire. Keep the fowl hot; lay it in the middle of the
dish, and the rice round it, without the _broth_; which will be very
nice to eat as such; but the less liquor it is done with the better.

_Fricassee of Chickens._

Boil them rather more than half in a small quantity of water: let them
cool; then cut them up, and put them to simmer in a little gravy, made
of the liquor they were boiled in, and a bit of veal or mutton, onion,
mace, lemonpeel, white pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs. When quite
tender, keep them hot while you thicken the sauce thus: strain off, and
put it back into the saucepan, with a little salt, a scrape of nutmeg, a
bit of flour and butter: give it one boil; and when you are going to
serve, beat up the yelk of an egg, add half a pint of cream, and stir
them over the fire, but do not let it boil.

It will be equally good without the egg.

_Another white Sauce, more easily made._

Take a little of the water that boiled the fowls, (which must be kept
hot) and stew with it some cut onion, a bit of parsley, a blade of mace,
and a bit of lemonpeel. Mix with this a bit of butter, flour, and little
thick cream, and adding the chicken, warm it with the sauce.

The above for veal or rabbit; but if either are not sufficiently done
before, then the cream and flour should be added just before serving,
after the meat is a little stewed.

_Davenport Fowls._

Hang young fowls a night: take the livers, hearts, and tenderest parts
of the gizzards, shred very small, with half a handful of young clary,
an anchovy to each fowl, one onion, and the yelks of four eggs, boiled
hard, with pepper, salt, and mace to your taste. Stuff the fowls with
this, and sew up the vents and necks quite close, that the water may not
get in. Boil them in salt and water till near done; then drain, and put
them into a stewpan, with butter enough to brown them. Then serve with
fine melted butter, and a spoonful of catsup, of either sort, in the
dish.

_To pull Chicken._

Take off the skin, and pull the flesh off the bones of a cold fowl, in
as large pieces as you can. Dredge with flour, and fry of a nice brown
in butter; which drain from it, and simmer in a good gravy, well
seasoned, and thickened with a little flour and butter. Add the juice of
half a lemon.

_Chicken Pie._

Cut up two young fowls: season with white pepper, salt, a little mace,
and nutmeg, all in the finest powder; likewise a little Cayenne. Put the
chicken, slices of ham or gammon, forcemeat, and hard eggs, alternately.
If to be in a dish, put a little water; if in a raised crust, none.
Against the pie be baked, have ready a gravy of knuckle of veal, with a
few shank bones, seasoned with herbs, onion, mace, and pepper. If in a
dish, put in as much gravy as will fill it: if in crust, let it go cold;
then open the lid, and put in the jelly.

_The Forcemeat for Pies of Fowls of any kind._

Pound fine, cold chicken, or veal, a bit of fat bacon, some grated ham,
crumbs of bread, a very little bit of onion, parsley, knotted marjorum,
and a very small bit of tarragon, chopped fine; a blade of mace, a
little nutmeg, white pepper, and salt, in finest powder. When well
mixed, add eggs to make into balls.

_Chicken Curry._

Cut up the chickens before they are dressed, and fry them in butter,
with sliced onions, till of a fine colour: or if you use those that have
been dressed, do not fry them: lay the joints, cut in two or three
pieces each, into a stewpan, with veal or mutton gravy, a clove or two
of garlick, four large spoonfuls of cream, and some Cayenne: rub smooth
one or two spoonfuls of curry powder, with a little flour, and a bit of
butter, and add twenty minutes before you serve; stewing it on till
ready. A little juice of lemon should be squeezed in when serving.

Slices of rare done veal, rabbit, or turkey, make a good curry.

A dish of rice boiled plain, as hereafter directed, must be always
served to eat with curry.

_Another Curry, and more quickly made._

Cut up a chicken or young rabbit; if the former, take off the skin, and
rub each piece in a large spoonful of flour, mixed with half an ounce of
curry powder: slice two or three onions, and fry in butter, of a fine
light brown; then add the meat, and fry altogether, until the latter
begin to brown; then put into a stewpan, and pour boiling water over to
cover. Let it simmer very gently two or three hours until quite tender.
If too thick, put more water half an hour before it be served.

Dressed fowl or meat may be done; but the curry will be better made of
fresh.

_Grouse._

Are to be roasted like fowls; but their heads twisted under the wing,
and served with gravy, and bread sauce, or with sauce for wild fowl. See
Sauces.

_To pot Grouse, or Moor Game._

Pick, singe, and wash them very clean; then rub them inside and out with
a high seasoning of salt, pepper, mace, nutmeg, and allspice. Lay them
in as small a pot as will hold them: cover them with butter, and bake
them in a slow oven. When cold, take off the butter, move the birds from
the gravy, dry, and put them into pots that will just fit one or two;
the former, where there are not many. Melt the former butter with some
more, so as to completely cover the birds: but take care not to oil it.
Do not let it be too hot.

_To roast Widgeon, Duck, Teal, or Moorhen._

The flavour is best preserved without stuffing; but put some pepper,
salt, and a bit of butter in the birds. Wild fowl require to be much
less done than tame, and to be served of a fine colour.

The basting ordered in the foregoing receipt takes off a fishy taste
which wild fowl sometimes have. Send up a very good gravy in the dish;
and on cutting the breast, half a lemon squeezed over, with pepper on
it, improves the taste.

Or stuff them with crumbs, a little shred onion, sage, pepper, and salt,
but not a large quantity, and add a bit of butter. Slice an onion, and
put into the dripping pan, with a little salt, and baste the fowls with
it till three parts done; then remove that, and baste with butter. They
should come up finely frothed, and not be overdone.

An excellent sauce under that article.

_Duck to boil._

Choose a fine fat duck, salt it two days, then boil it slowly, and cover
it with onion sauce made very white, and the butter melted with milk
instead of water.

To roast duck: stuff or not, and serve with gravy.

_Duck Pie._

Bone a full grown young duck, and a fine young fowl of a good size.
Season them both well with mace, pepper, salt and allspice. Put the fowl
within the duck, and a calf’s tongue that has been pickled red, and
boiled, within the fowl. Make the whole to lie close. The skin of the
legs and wings should be drawn inwards, that the body may lie smooth,
Put the birds into a raised pie, or small piedish, and cover it with a
thickish paste. Bake in a slow oven to eat cold.

The old Staffordshire raised pies were made as above, but a turkey was
put over the duck, and a goose over that, forming a very large pie.

_Goose to Roast._

After being carefully picked, the plugs of the feathers pulled out, and
the hairs singed, let it be well washed, dried, and seasoned with onion,
sage, pepper, and salt; fasten it tight at the neck and vent, and roast
it.

When half done, let a narrow strip of paper be skewered on the
breastbone. Baste it well, and observe to take it up the moment it is
done, nicely frothed. When the breast rises, take off the paper, and
observe to serve it before it fall, or it will be spoiled, and come to
table flattened. Before it is cut up, cut the apron off, and pour in a
wineglass of port wine and a teaspoonful of mustard. Cut the breast from
one pinion to the other, if for a large party, without leaving meat to
the wingbone.

Gravy, and apple sauce.

_Green Goose Pie._

Bone two green geese, having first removed every plug, and singed them
nicely. Wash them clean; season high with salt, mace, pepper, and
pimento: put one within the other, and press them close into your
piedish; put a good deal of butter over them, and bake with or without a
crust: if the latter, a cover that will keep the steam in, must supply
the place of a crust. It will keep long.

_Giblet Pie._

Stew duck or goose giblets, when nicely cleaned, with onion, black
pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs, till tender. Let them become cold;
then put them in the dish with two or three steaks of veal, beef, or
mutton, especially if there are not giblets enough to make the sized pie
that you wish. A little cup of cream, put in when baked, is a great
improvement. Put the liquor in first.

_Stewed Giblets._

As above, and add a little butter and flour. Serve with sippets, and
cream just scalded in the sauce.

_Stewed Pigeons._

Let them be fresh, and carefully cropped, drawn, and washed, then let
them soak half an hour: in the mean time cut a hard white cabbage into
water in slices as for pickling; drain it, and boil it in milk and
water; drain it again, then lay some of it at the bottom of a stewpan;
put the birds on it, being well seasoned, and cover them with the
remainder; put a little broth into them, and stew till quite tender,
before you serve. Add some cream, and a little flour and butter; give it
one boil, and serve the cabbage round the pigeons.

_Another way._

Stew in a good gravy, stuffed or not, and season well. Add a little
mushroom catsup, or fresh mushrooms.

_To pickle Pigeons._

Bone the pigeons, turn the inside out, and lard it: season with Jamaica
pepper pounded very fine, and a little salt: turn the inside outward
again, and tie the neck and rump with thread: put them in boiling water,
let them boil a minute or two to plump; take them out, and dry with a
cloth. The pickle must be made of an equal quantity of wine, and white
wine vinegar; white pepper, Jamaica pepper, sliced nutmeg, ginger, and
two or three bayleaves boiled. When it boils, put the pigeons into it,
and let them boil fifteen minutes, if small; twenty, if large. Then take
them out, wipe, and let them cool. When the pickle is cold, take off the
fat, and put them in.

They must be kept in a stonejar, tied down with a bladder to exclude the
air. You may in some, instead of larding, put a stuffing of hard yelks
of eggs, and marrow, in equal quantities, spices, and sweet herbs.

_Pigeons in Jelly._

Save some of the liquor in which a knuckle of veal has been boiled, as
likewise a calf’s foot, or else simmer some isinglass in it, a blade of
mace, an onion, a bunch of herbs, some lemonpeel, white pepper, and
salt. When the pigeons are nicely cleaned and soaked, put them in a pan,
and pour the liquor over them; and let them be baked, and remain in it
till cold. When served, put jelly over and round them. Season them as
you approve.

_Potted Pigeons._

Take fresh ones: clean them carefully: season with pepper and salt: put
them close in a small pan, and pour butter over: bake, and when cold
take them out. Put into fresh pots, fit to serve to table, two or three
in each, and pour butter over, using that which was baked with them as
part. Observe, that it is necessary to put a good deal of butter if to
be kept.

_Note._ Butter that has covered potted things is good for basting, and
will make very good paste for meatpies. If to be high, add some mace,
and a few Jamaica peppers to the seasoning.

_Pigeon Pie._

Clean as before: season; and, if approved, put some parsley into the
birds, and a bit of butter, with pepper and salt. Lay a beefsteak at the
bottom of the dish, and hard eggs between each two birds, and a little
water. If you have ham in the house, lay a slice on each: it is a great
improvement to the flavour.

Observe, when you cut ham for sauce or pies, to turn it, and take from
the underside instead of the prime.

_Broiled Pigeons._

Slit them down the back: season, and broil. Serve with mushroom sauce;
or melted butter, with a little mushroom catsup.

_Roast Pigeons._

Should be stuffed with uncut parsley, seasoned; and served with parsley
and butter. Asparagus, or peas, should be dressed to eat with them.

_Parsley Pie._

Lay veal or fowl at the bottom of a pie dish, seasoned. Take a colander
full of picked parsley, cover the meat with it, and pour some cream into
the dish, and a spoonful or two of broth. Cover with crust.

_Potatoe Pasty._

Boil, peel, and mash potatoes as fine as possible; then mix pepper,
salt, and a little thick cream, or, if you prefer it, butter. Make a
paste, and, rolling it out like a large puff, put the potatoe into it,
and bake it.

_Turnip Pie._

Season mutton chops with pepper and salt: lay them in the bottom of a
dish, reserving the ends of the bones to lay over the turnips; which cut
and season, and lay over the steaks till the dish be full. Put two or
three spoonfuls of water in, and cover with crust. You may add a little
onion.

_Shrimp Pie. Excellent._

Take a quart of picked shrimps: if very salt, only season with mace, and
a clove or two in fine powder; but if not salt, mince two or three
anchovies, mix with the spice, and season them. Put some butter at the
bottom of the dish, and over the shrimps, and a glass of sharp white
wine. Put a good light paste over. They do not require long baking.

_Cornish Pies._

Scald and blanch some broad beans: cut mushrooms, carrots, turnips, and
artichoke bottoms, and with some peas, and a little onion, make the
whole into a nice stew, with some good veal gravy. Bake a crust over a
dish, with a little lining round the edge, and a cup within to keep it
from sinking: open the lid, and put in the fricassee made hot; seasoning
to your taste. Shalots, parsley, lettuce, celery, or any sort of
vegetables that you like, may be added.

_Fish Pie._

Put slices of cod that have been salted a night; pepper, and between
each layer put a good quantity of parsley picked from the stalks, and
some fresh butter. Pour a little broth, if you have any, or else a
little water. Bake the pie; and when to be served, add a quarter of a
pint of raw cream warm, with half a teaspoonful of flour. Oysters may be
added.

Mackerel will do well; but do not salt it till used.

Soals, with oysters, seasoned with pounded mace, nutmeg, pepper, an
anchovy, and some salt, make an excellent pie. Put in the oyster liquor,
two or three spoonfuls of broth, and some butter, for gravy. When come
from the oven, pour in a cup of thick cream.

_To prepare Meat or Fowls for raised Pies._

When washed, put a good seasoning of spices and salt. Set it over a fire
in a stewpan, that will just hold the meat: put a piece of butter, and,
covering close, let it simmer in its own steam till it shrink. It must
be cool before it be put into the pie. Chicken’s sweetbreads, giblets,
pigeon’s meat, almost any thing will make a good pie, if well seasoned,
and made tender by stewing. A forcemeat may be put under and over, of
cold chicken or veal, fat bacon, shred ham, herbs, bread, and seasoning,
bound with an egg or two, or in balls. Or instead of crust, use an
earthen pie form.

_Hares_,

If old, should be larded with bacon, after having hung as long as they
will keep, and being first soaked in pepper and vinegar.

If not paunched as soon as killed, hares are more juicy: but as that is
usually done in the field, the cook must be careful to wipe it dry every
day; the liver being removed, and boiled to keep for the stuffing.

Parsley put into the belly will help keep it fresh.

When to be dressed, the hare must be well soaked; and if the neck and
shoulders are bloody, in warm water: then dry it, and put to it a large
fine stuffing, made of the liver, an anchovy, some fat bacon, a little
suet, herbs, spice, and bread crumbs, with an egg to bind it. Sew it up.
Observe that the ears are nicely cleaned and singed. When half roasted,
cut the skin off the neck to let out the blood, which afterwards fixes
there. Baste with milk till three parts done, then with butter: and
before served, froth it up with flour. It should be put down early, kept
at a great distance at first from the fire, and drawn nearer by degrees.

Send a rich brown gravy in the dish; melted butter in one boat, and
currantjelly in another.

_To jug an old Hare._

After it is well cleaned and skinned, cut it up and season it with
pepper, allspice, salt, pounded, mace, and a little nutmeg: put it into
a jar, with an onion, a clove or two, a bunch of sweet herbs, and over
all a bit of coarse beef. Tie it down with a bladder and leather quite
close, and put the jar into a saucepan of water up to its neck, but no
higher. Let the water boil gently five hours. When to be served, pour
the gravy into a saucepan, and thicken it with butter and flour; or if
become cold, warm the hare with the gravy.

_Hare Soup._ See _Soups_.

_Hare Pie._

Season the hare after it is cut up. Put eggs, and forcemeat, and either
bake in a raised crust or a dish: if in the former, put cold jelly gravy
to it; if for the latter, the same hot; but the pie is to be eaten cold.
See _Jelly Gravy among similar articles_.

_Potted Hare._

Having seasoned, and baked it with butter over, cover it with brown
paper, and let it grow cold. Then take the meat from the bones, beat it
in a mortar, and add salt, mace, and pepper, if not high enough; a bit
of fresh butter melted, and a spoonful of the gravy that came from the
hare when baked. Put the meat into small pots, and cover it well with
butter warmed. The prime should be baked at the bottom of the pot.

_Broiled Hare and hashed._

The flavour of broiled hare is particularly fine. The legs or wings
peppered and salted first, and when done, rubbed with cold butter.

The other parts warmed with the gravy and a little stuffing.

_Rabbits_

May be eaten various ways.

Roasted with stuffing and gravy.

Ditto without stuffing; and with liver, parsley, and butter: seasoned
with pepper and salt.

Boiled, and smothered with onion sauce; the butter being melted with
milk instead of water.

Fried, and served with dried or fried parsley, and liver sauce as above.

Fricasseed, as directed for chickens.

Made into Pies, as chickens, with forcemeat, &c. are excellent, when
young.

_To make Rabbit taste much like_ Hare.

Choose a young full grown one: hang it, with the skin on, two or three
days: skin, and lay it unwashed in a seasoning of black and Jamaica
peppers, in fine powder, putting some port wine into the dish, and baste
it occasionally for forty hours: then stuff and roast it as hare, and
with the same sauce. Do not wash off the liquor that it lay in.

_Potted Rabbit._

Cut up and season three or four after washing them. The seasoning must
be mace, pepper, salt, a little Cayenne, and a few pimentos in finest
powder. Pack them as close as possible in a small pan, and make the
surface smooth. Keep out the carcasses, having taken all the meat off
them, and, putting a good deal of butter over the rabbits, bake them
gently. Let them remain a day or two, then remove into potting pans; and
add some fresh butter to that which already covers them.

SOUPS.

_Giblet Soup._

Scald and clean three or four sets of goose or duck giblets; then set
them on to stew with a scrag of mutton, or a pound of gravy beef, or
bone of knuckle of veal, an oxtail, or some shankbones of mutton; three
onions, a blade of mace, ten peppercorns, two cloves, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and two quarts of water. Simmer till the gizzards are quite
tender, which must be cut in three or four parts; then put in a little
cream, a spoonful of flour rubbed smooth with it, and a spoonful of
mushroom catsup; or two glasses of sherry or Madeira wine instead of
cream, and some Cayenne.

_Turnip Soup._

Stew down a knuckle of veal: strain, and let the broth stand still next
day; take off the fat and sediment, and warm it, adding turnips cut in
small dice: stew till they are tender: put a bit of pounded mace, white
pepper, and salt. Before you serve, rub down half a spoonful of flour,
with half a pint of cream, and boil with the soup: pour it on a roll in
the tureen; but it should have soaked a little first in the soup, which
should be as thick as middling cream.

_Old Peas Soup._

Save the water of boiled pork or beef: if too salt, use only a part, and
the other of plain water: or put some roast beef bones, or a ham or
bacon bone to give a relish; or an anchovy or two. Set these on with
some good whole or split peas, the smaller quantity of water at first
the better: simmer till the peas will pulp through a colander; then set
that, and some more of the liquor, besides what boiled the peas, some
carrots, turnips, celery, and onion, or a leak or two, to stew till all
be tender. Celery will take less time, and may be put in an hour before
dinner. When ready, put fried bread in dice, dried mint rubbed small,
pepper, and, if wanted, salt, in the tureen, and pour the soup upon
them.

_Green Peas Soup._

In shelling, divide the old from the young, and put the former, with a
bit of butter, and a little water into a stewpan, and the old parts of
lettuce, an onion or two, a little pepper and salt. Simmer till the peas
will pulp through a colander; which when done, add to it some more
water, and that which boiled the peas, the best parts of the lettuce,
and the young peas, a handful of spinach cut small, pepper, and salt to
taste. Stew till the vegetables are quite tender; and a few minutes
before serving, throw in some green mint, cut fine.

Should the soup be too thin, a spoonful of rice flour, rubbed down with
a bit of butter, and boiled with it, will give it consistence.

_Note._ If soup or gravy be too weak, the cover of the saucepan should
be taken off, and the steam let out, boiling it very quick.

When there is plenty of vegetables, green peas soup needs no meat: but
if approved, a pig’s foot, or a small bit of any sort, may be boiled
with the old peas, and removed into the second process till the juices
shall be obtained. Observe, three or four ounces of butter, will supply
richness to a soup without meat, or make it higher with it.

_Gravy Soup._

Wash a leg of beef, break the bone, and set it over the fire with five
quarts of water, a large bunch of herbs, two onions, sliced and fried,
but not burnt, a blade or two of mace, three cloves, twenty Jamaica
peppers, and forty black. Simmer till the soup be as rich as you choose;
then strain off the meat, which will be fit for the servants’ table.
Next day take off the cake of fat, and that will warm with vegetables;
or make a piecrust for the same. Have ready such vegetables as you
choose to serve, cut in dice, carrot, and turnip, sliced, and simmer
till tender. Celery should be stewed in it likewise; and before you
serve, boil some vermicelli long enough to be tender, which it will be
in fifteen minutes. Add a spoonful of soy, and one of mushroom catsup.
Some people do not serve the vegetables, only boil for the flavour. A
small roll should be made hot, and kept long enough in the saucepan to
swell, and then be sent up in the tureen.

_A rich White Soup._

Boil in a small quantity of water a knuckle of Veal, and scrag of
mutton, mace, white pepper, two or three onions, and sweet herbs, the
day before you want the soup. Next day take off the fat, and put the
jelly into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds
blanched, and beaten to a paste in a mortar with a little water to
prevent oiling, and put to it apiece of stale white bread, or crumb of a
roll; a bit of cold veal, or white of chicken. Beat these all to a paste
with the almond paste, and boil it a few minutes with a pint of raw
thick cream, a bit of fresh lemonpeel, and half a blade of mace pounded;
then add this thickening to the soup. Let it boil up and strain it into
the tureen: if not salt enough, then put it in. If macaroni or
vermicelli be served, they should be boiled in the soup, and the
thickening be strained after being mixed with a part. A small rasped
roll may be put in.

Instead of the cream thickening, as above, ground rice, and a little
cream may be used.

_A plainer White Soup._

Of a small knuckle of veal, two or three pints of soup may be made, with
seasoning as before, and both served together, with the addition of a
quarter of a pint of good milk.

_An excellent Soup._

A scrag or knuckle of veal, slices of undressed gammon, onions, mace,
and a small quantity of water, simmered till very strong, and lower it
with a good beef broth made the day before, and stewed until the meat is
done to rags. Add cream, vermicelli, almonds as before, and a roll.

_Carrot Soup._

Put some beef bones, with four quarts of the liquor in which a leg of
mutton or beef has been boiled, two large onions, one turnip, pepper and
salt, into a saucepan, and stew for three hours. Have ready six large
carrots, cut thin after they are scraped; strain the soup on them, and
stew till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth: then
boil the pulp with the soup; which is to be as thick as pea ssoup. Use
two wooden spoons to rub the carrots through. Make the soup the day
before it is to be used. Add Cayenne.

_Onion Soup._

To the water that has boiled a leg or neck of mutton, put carrots,
turnips, and, if you have one, a shankbone, and simmer till the juices
are obtained. Strain it on six onions previously sliced, and fried a
light brown; with which simmer it three hours. Skim it carefully, and
serve it. Put into it a little roll or fried bread.

_Vegetable Soup._

Pare and slice five or six cucumbers, the inside of as many cos
lettuces, a sprig or two of mint, two or three onions, some pepper and
salt, a pint and half of young peas, and a little parsley. Put these,
with half a pound of fresh butter, into a saucepan to stew in their own
liquor near a gentle fire half an hour; then pour two quarts of boiling
water to the vegetables, and stew them two hours: rub down a little
flour into a teacup of water; boil it with the rest fifteen or twenty
minutes, and serve it.

_Another Vegetable Soup._

Peel and slice six large onions, six potatoes, six carrots, and four
turnips: fry them in half a pound of butter: pour on them four quarts of
boiling water, and toast a crust of bread as brown and hard as possible,
but do not burn it: put that, some celery, sweet herbs, white pepper and
salt, to the above: stew gently four hours, strain through a coarse
cloth: have ready sliced carrot, celery, and a little turnip, and add to
your liking; and stew them tender in the soup. If approved, you may add
an anchovy, and a spoonful of catsup.

_Spinach Soup._

Shred two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two onions, a head of celery,
two carrots, and a little thyme and parsley. Put all into a stewpot,
with, a bit of butter the size of a walnut, and a pint of broth, or the
water in which meat has been boiled; stew till the vegetables are quite
tender: work them through a coarse cloth or sieve with a spoon; then
with the pulp of the vegetables, and liquor, a quart of fresh water,
pepper and salt, boil all together. Have ready some suet dumplings, the
size of a walnut, and before you put the soup into the tureen, put them
into it. The suet must not be shred too fine; and take care that it is
perfectly fresh.

_Scotch Leek Soup._

Put the boiling of a leg of mutton into a stew pot, with a quantity of
chopped leeks, and pepper and salt; simmer them an hour, then mix some
oatmeal with a little cold water quite smooth, pour it into the soup,
and setting it on a slow part of the fire, let it simmer gently; but
take care that it does not burn to the bottom.

_Hare Soup._

Take an old hare that is good for nothing else than soup, cut in pieces,
and put it with a pound and a half of lean beef, two or three shankbones
of mutton well cleaned, a slice of lean bacon or ham; an onion, and a
bunch of sweet herbs: pour on it two quarts of boiling water: cover the
jar, in which you put these, with bladder and paper, and set it in a
kettle of water: simmer till the hare is stewed to pieces: strain off
the liquor, and give it one boil, with an anchovy cut in pieces, and add
a spoonful of soy, and a little Cayenne and salt. A few fine forcemeat
balls, fried of a good brown, should be served in the tureen.

_Scotch Mutton Broth._

Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour: cut off the scrag, and put
into a stewpot with two quarts of water: as soon as it boils, skim it
well and simmer it an hour and a half; then take the best end of the
mutton, cut it into pieces, two bones in each, and put as many as you
think proper, having cut off some of the fat. Skim it the moment the
fresh meat boils up, and every quarter of an hour. Have ready four or
five carrots, the same of turnips, and three onions, all cut, but not
small, and put in time enough to be quite tender; two large spoonfuls of
Scotch barley, first wetted with cold water. The meat should stew three
hours. Salt to taste, and serve all together. Twenty minutes before
serving, put in some chopped parsley.

It is an excellent winter dish.

_Soups under the articles of their respective Meats._

Oxcheek Soup. Hessian Soup. Mock turtle, page 49 to 52.

_Ox rump Soup._

Two or three rumps of beef, will make it stronger than a much larger
proportion of meat without; and form a very nourishing soup.

Make it like gravy soup, and give it what flavour or thickening you
like.

_Soup A-la-sap._

Boil half a pound of grated potatoes, one pound of beef sliced thin, one
pint of grey peas, one onion, and three ounces of rice, in six pints of
water to five; strain it through a colander, then pulp the peas to it,
and turn it into a saucepan again, with two heads of celery sliced: stew
it tender, adding pepper and salt; and when you serve, fried bread.

_Crawfish or Prawn Soup._

Boil six whitings, and a large eel; or the latter, and half a thornback,
being well cleaned, with as much water as will cover them. Skim clean,
and put in whole pepper, mace, ginger, parsley, an onion, a little
thyme, and three cloves. Boil to a mash. Pick fifty crawfish, or a
hundred prawns, pound the shells, and a little roll, after having boiled
them with a little water, vinegar, salt and herbs. Pour this liquor over
the shells in a sieve, then pour the other soup, clear from the
sediment; chop a lobster, and add to it, with a quart of good beef
gravy. Add the tails of the crawfish or the prawns, and some flour and
butter; and season as necessary.

_Portable Soup. A very useful thing._

Boil one or two knuckles of veal, one or two shins of beef, and a pound
or more of fine juicy beef, in as much water only as will cover them.
When the bones are cracked, out of which take the marrow, put any sort
of spice you like, and three large onions. When the meat is done to
rags, strain it off, and put in a _very_ cold place. When cold, take off
the cake of fat (which will make crust for servants’ pies), put the soup
into a double bottom tin saucepan, set it on a pretty quick fire, but do
not let it burn. It must boil fast, and uncovered, and be stirred
constantly for eight hours; Put into a pan, and let it stand in a cold
place a day; then pour it into a round soup China dish, and set the dish
into a stewpan of boiling water on a stove, and let it boil, and be
occasionally stirred, till the soup become thick and ropy; then it is
enough. Pour it into the little round part at the bottom of cups or
basons to form cakes; and when cold, turn them out on flannel to dry,
and wrap them in it. Keep them in tin canisters. When to be used, melt
in boiling water: and if you wish the flavour of herbs or any thing
else, boil it first, and having strained the water, melt the soup in it.

This is very convenient for a bason of soup or gravy in the country, or
at sea, where fresh meat is not always at hand.

_Clear Gravy._

Slice beef thin: broil a part of it, over a very clear quick fire, just
enough to give colour to the gravy, but not to dress it: put that, and
the raw into a very nicely tinned stewpan, with two onions, a clove, or
two Jamaica and black peppers, and a bunch of sweet herbs: cover it with
hot water; give it one boil, and skim it well two or three times: then
cover it and simmer till quite strong.

_To draw Gravy that will keep a week._

Cut thin lean beef: put it in a fryingpan without any butter: set it on
a fire covered, but take care it does not burn: let it stay till all the
gravy that comes out of the meat be dried up into it again; then put as
much water as will cover the meat, and let that stew away. Then put to
the meat a small quantity of water, herbs, onions, spice, a bit of lean
ham: simmer till it is rich, then keep it in a cool place. Remove the
fat only when going to be used.

_A rich Gravy._

Cut beef in thin slices, according to the quantity wanted: slice onions
thin, and flour both: fry them of a light pale brown, but on no account
suffer them to go black: put them into a stewpan, and pouring boiling
water on the browning in the fryingpan, boil it up, and pour on the
meat. Put to it a bunch of parsley, thyme, savory, and a small bit of
knotted marjorum, and the same of tarragon, some mace, Jamaica and black
peppers, a clove or two, and a bit of ham or gammon. Simmer till you
have all the juices of the meat; and be sure to skim the moment it
boils, and frequently after. If for a hare, or stewed fish, anchovy
should be added.

The shankbones of mutton are a great improvement to the richness of the
gravy; being first well soaked, and scoured clean.

_Note._ Jelly gravy for cold pies should be brown or white, as the meat
or fowl is. It must be drawn without frying, relished, and made quite
clean, by running it through a flannel bag. To give it the consistence
of jelly, shanks, or knuckle, or feet, should be boiled with the bones.

_Jelly to cover cold Fish._

Clean a maid: put it with three quarts of water, an ounce and a half of
isinglass, a bit of mace, lemonpeel, white peppers, a stick of
horseradish, and a little ham or gammon. Stew, till on trying with a
spoon you find that it jellies: then strain it off, and add to it the
whites of five eggs, a glass of sherry wine, and the juice of a lemon;
give it another boil, and pour it through a jellybag till quite
transparent.

When cold, lay it over the fish with a spoon.

_Cullis, or brown Sauce._

Lay as much lean veal over the bottom of a stewpan as will cover it an
inch thick: then cover the veal with thin slices of undressed gammon,
two or three onions, two or three bayleaves, some sweet herbs, two
blades of mace, and three cloves. Cover the stewpan, and set it over a
slow fire. When the juices come out, let the fire be a little quicker.
When the meat is of a fine brown, fill the pan with good beef broth,
boil and skim it, then simmer an hour: add a little water, mixed with as
much flour as will make it properly thick; boil it half an hour, and
strain it.

This will keep a week.

_Veal Gravy._

Make as directed for the cullis, leaving out the spice, herbs, and
flour. It should be drawn very slowly: and if for white dishes, do not
let the meat brown.

_Bechamel or White Sauce._

Cut lean veal in small slices, and the same quantity of lean bacon or
ham: put them in a stewpan, with a good piece of butter, an onion, a
blade of mace, a few mushroom buttons, a bit of thyme, and a bayleaf.
Fry the whole over a very slow fire, but not to brown it: add flour to
thicken; then put an equal quantity of good broth, and rich cream. Let
it boil half an hour, stirring it all the time: strain it through a soup
strainer.

N. B. Soups and gravies are far better by putting the meat at the bottom
of the pan, and stewing it, and the herbs, roots, &c. with butter, than
by adding the water to the meat at first; and the gravy that is drawn
from the meat, should be nearly dried up before the water is put to it.
Do not use the sediment of gravies, &c. that have stood to be cold. When
onions are strong, boil a turnip with them, if for sauce, which will
make them mild.

_Sauce for Wild Fowl._

Simmer ten minutes a teacupful of port wine, the same of good meat
gravy, a little shalot, a little pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg, and a
bit of mace: put a bit of butter and flour: give one boil, and pour
through the birds; which in general are not stuffed as tame, but may be
done so, if liked.

_Another for the same, or Ducks._

Serve a rich gravy in the dish: cut the breast in slices, but do not
take them off; cut a lemon, and put pepper and salt on it; then squeeze
it on the breast, and pour a spoonful of gravy over before you help.

_Note._ In cutting up any wild fowl, duck, goose, or turkey for a large
party, if you cut the slices down from pinion to pinion, without making
wings, there will be more prime pieces.

_Sauce Robart for Rumps or Steaks._

Put into a saucepan a piece of butter the size of an egg: set it over
the fire, and when browning, throw in a handful of sliced onions cut
small: fry them brown, but do not let them burn: add half a spoonful of
flour, shake the onions in it, give another fry, then put four spoonfuls
of gravy, pepper, and salt, and boil gently ten minutes. Skim off the
fat: add a teaspoonful of made mustard, a spoonful of vinegar, and half
a lemon juice: boil, and pour round the steaks, which should be of a
fine yellow brown, and garnished with fried parsley and lemon.

_An Excellent Sauce for Carp or boiled Turkey._

Rub half a pound of butter with a teaspoonful of flour; put to it a
_little_ water, melt it, and add near a quarter of a pint of thick
cream, and half an anchovy chopped fine, unwashed; set it over the fire,
and as it boils up, add a large spoonful of real India soy. If that does
not give it a fine colour, put a little more. Turn it into the sauce
tureen, and put some salt, and half a lemon. Stir it well to prevent
curdling.

_Sauce for cold Fowl or Partridge._

Rub down in a mortar the yelks of two eggs boiled hard, an anchovy, two
dessert spoonfuls of oil, a little shalot, and a teaspoonful of mustard,
(all should be pounded before the oil be added) then strain it.

_Vinagret for cold Fowl or Meat._

Chop fine mint, parsley, and shalot, and add salt, oil, and vinegar. It
may be poured over, or sent in a boat.

_Benton Sauce for hot or cold roast Beef._

Grate, or scrape very fine, horseradish, a little made mustard, some
pounded white sugar, and four large spoonfuls of vinegar.

Serve in a saucer.

_To melt Butter._

On a clean trencher, mix a little flour to a large piece of butter, in
the proportion of a teaspoonful to a full quarter of a pound; then put
into a saucepan, and pour on it two large spoonfuls of hot water; set it
on the fire, and let it boil quick. You should stir it round one way,
and serve it as soon as ready.

On the goodness of this depends the look and flavour of every sauce in
which it is put.

_Lobster Sauce._

Pound the spawn, and two anchovies: pour on two spoonfuls of gravy:
strain it into some butter melted as above; then put in the meat of the
lobster, give one boil, and add a squeeze of lemon.

_Another way._

Leave out the anchovies and gravy, and do as above, with a little salt,
and catsup, or not, as you like. Many prefer the flavour of the lobster
and salt only.

_Shrimp Sauce._

If not picked at home, pour a little water over to wash, and put them to
butter melted thick and smooth: give them one boil, and add the juice of
lemon.

_Anchovy Sauce._

Chop one or two without washing: put to some flour and butter, and a
little drop of water: stir it over the fire till it boil once or twice.
When the anchovies are good, they will be dissolved; and the colour will
be better than by the usual way.

_Fish Sauce without Butter._

Simmer very gently a quarter of a pint of vinegar, half a pint of water
(which must not be hard) with an onion, half a handful of horseradish,
and the following spices lightly bruised: four cloves, two blades of
mace, and half a teaspoonful of black pepper. When the onion is quite
tender, chop it small with two anchovies: and set the whole on the fire
to boil for a few minutes, with a spoonful of catsup. Mean time, have
ready and well beaten the yelks of three fresh eggs: strain; mix in the
liquor by degrees with them; and when well mixed, set the saucepan over
a gentle fire, keeping a bason in one hand, into which toss the sauce to
and fro, shaking the saucepan over the fire, that the eggs may not
curdle. Do not boil, only let the sauce be hot enough to give the
thickness of melted butter.

_Lemon Sauce._

Cut thin slices of lemon into very small dice, and put into melted
butter; give one boil, and pour over boiled fowls.

_Liver Sauce._

Chop boiled liver of rabbits or fowls, and do as above, with a very
little pepper and salt, and some parsley.

_A very good Sauce, especially to hide the bad colour of Fowls._

Cut the livers, slices of lemon in dice, scalded parsley, and hard eggs:
add salt, and mix with butter: boil up, and pour over the fowls.

Or for roast rabbit.

_Egg Sauce._

Boil the eggs hard, and cut them in small pieces: then put them to
melted butter.

_Buttered Eggs._

Beat four or five eggs, yelk and white together: put a quarter of a
pound of butter in a bason and then put that in boiling water; stir it
till melted: then pour that butter and the eggs into a saucepan. Keep a
bason in your hand: just hold the saucepan in the other over a slow part
of the fire, shaking it one way; as it begins to warm, pour it into a
bason, and back; then hold it again over the fire, stirring it
constantly in the saucepan, and pouring it into the bason, more
perfectly to mix the egg and butter, until they shall be hot without
boiling.

Serve on toasted bread; or in a bason to eat with salt fish or red
herrings.

_Onion Sauce._

Peel, and boil onions tender: squeeze the water from them; then chop,
and add butter that has been melted rich and smooth as before, but with
a little good milk instead of water: boil up once, and serve for boiled
rabbits, partridges, scrag, or knuckle of veal; or roast mutton.

_Oyster Sauce._

Save the liquor in opening, and boil with the beards, a bit of mace, and
lemonpeel. Mean time throw the oysters into cold water, and drain it
off. Strain the liquor, and put it into a saucepan with them, and as
much butter, mixed with a little milk, as will make sauce enough; a
little flour being previously rubbed with it.

Set them over the fire, stir all the time; and when the butter has
boiled once or twice, take them off, and keep the saucepan near, but not
on the fire; for if done too much, the oysters will be hard. Squeeze a
little lemonjuice, and serve.

If for company, a little cream is a great improvement. Observe the
oysters will thin the sauce, and put butter accordingly.

_Bread Sauce._

Boil a large onion, cut in four, with some black peppers, and milk,
until the former be quite a pap. Pour the milk strained on grated white
stale bread, and cover it. In an hour put it into a saucepan, with a
good piece of butter, mixed with a little flour: boil the whole up
together, and serve.

Some people like the bread pulped through a colander before the butter
be added. A large spoonful of cream improves it.

_Little Eggs for Pies or Turtles._

Boil three eggs hard: beat the yelks fine with the raw yelk of an egg;
then make up the paste into small eggs, and throw them into a little
boiling water to harden.

_Fish Sauce A-la-Craster._

Thicken a quarter of a pound of butter with flour, and brown it; then
put to it a pound of the best anchovies, cut small, six blades of
pounded mace, ten cloves, forty black and Jamaica peppers, a few small
onions, a faggot of sweet herbs; namely, savory, thyme, basil, and
knotted marjorum; a little parsley, and sliced horseradish. On these
pour half a pint of the best sherry wine, and a pint and a half of
strong gravy: simmer all gently for twenty minutes; then strain it
through a sieve, and bottle it for use: the way of which, is to boil
some of it in the butter, as melting.

_A very fine Fish Sauce._

Put into a very nice tin saucepan, a pint of fine port wine, one gill of
mountain, half a pint of walnut catsup that is fine, twelve anchovies,
and the liquor that belongs to them, one gill of walnut pickle, the rind
and juice of a large lemon, four or five shalots, Cayenne to taste,
three ounces of scraped horseradish, three blades of mace, and two
teaspoonfuls of made mustard: boil gently, till the rawness go off, then
put it in small bottles for use.

Cork very close, and seal the top.

_Camp Vinegar._

Slice a large head of garlick, and put it into a widemouthed bottle,
with half an ounce of Cayenne, two teaspoonfuls of real soy, two of
walnut catsup, four anchovies chopped, a pint of vinegar, of cochineal
enough to give the colour of lavender drops. Let it stand six weeks,
then strain off quite clear, and keep in small bottles, sealed up.

_Lemon Pickle._

Wipe six lemons: cut each into eight pieces: put on them a pound of
salt, six large cloves of garlick, two ounces of horseradish, sliced
thin; likewise of cloves, mace, nutmeg, and Cayenne, a quarter of an
ounce each, and two ounces of flour of mustard; to these put two quarts
of vinegar: boil a quarter of an hour in a well tinned saucepan, or
which is better, do it in a strong jar, in a kettle of boiling water, or
set the jar on the hot hearth till done. Set the jar by, and stir it
daily for six weeks. Keep the jar close covered. Put into small bottles.

_Shalot Vinegar._

Split six or eight shalots: put them into a quart bottle: fill it up
with vinegar: stop it; and in a month it will be fit for use.

_Essence of Anchovies._

Take a dozen of anchovies, chop them, and without the bone, but with
some of their own liquor strained: add them to sixteen large spoonfuls
of water: boil gently till dissolved, which will be in a few minutes.
When cold, strain and bottle it.

_Mushroom Catsup._

Take the largest broad mushrooms, break them into an earthen pan, strew
salt over, and stir them now and then for three days. Then let them
stand for twelve, till there is a thick scum over. Strain, and boil the
liquor with Jamaica and black peppers, mace, ginger, a clove or two, and
some mustardseed. When cold, bottle it, and tie a bladder over the cork.
In three months boil it again with some fresh spice, and it will then
keep a twelvemonth.

_Mushroom Catsup, another way._

Take a stewpan full of the large flap mushrooms, that are not wormeaten,
and the skins and fringe of those you have picked; throw a handful of
salt among them, and set them by a slow fire. They will produce a great
deal of liquor, which you must strain; and put to it four ounces of
shalots, two cloves of garlick, a good deal of pepper, ginger, mace,
cloves, and a few bayleaves. Boil and skim very well. When cold, cork
close. In two months boil it up again, with a little fresh spice, and a
stick of horseradish, and it will then keep the year; which mushroom
catsup rarely does, if not boiled a second time.

_Walnut Catsup of the finest sort._

Boil a gallon of the expressed juice of walnuts when they are tender,
and skim it well: then put in two pounds of anchovies, bones and liquor,
ditto of shalots, one ounce of cloves, ditto of mace, ditto of pepper,
and one clove of garlick. Let all simmer till the shalots sink; then put
the liquor into a pan till cold. Bottle, and divide the spice to each.
Cork closely, and tie a bladder over.

It will keep twenty years, and is not good the first. Be very careful to
express the juice at home; for it is rarely unadulterated, if bought.

Some people make liquor of the outside shell when the nut is ripe; but
neither the flavour nor colour is then so fine.

_Cockle Catsup._

Open the cockles: scald them in their own liquor: add a little water
when the liquor settles, if you have not enough: strain through a cloth,
then season with every savory spice; and if for brown sauce, add port
wine, anchovies, and garlick; if for white, omit these, and put a glass
of sherry wine, lemonjuice and peel, mace, nutmeg, and white pepper. If
for brown, burn a bit of sugar for colouring.

It is better to have cockles enough, than to add water; and they are
cheap.

_Mushroom Powder._

Wash half a peck of large mushrooms while quite fresh, and free them
from grit and dirt with flannel. Scrape out the black part clean, and do
not use any that are wormeaten: put them into a stewpan over the fire
without water, with two large onions, some cloves, a quarter of an ounce
of mace, and two spoonfuls of white pepper, all in powder. Simmer and
shake them till all the liquor be dried up, but be careful they do not
burn. Lay them on tins or sieves in a slow oven, till they are dry
enough to beat to powder; then put the powder in small bottles, corked
and tied closely, and keep in a dry place.

A teaspoonful will give a very fine flavour to any soup or gravy, or any
sauce; and it is to be added just before serving, and one boil given to
it after it is put in.

_To dry Mushrooms._

Wipe them clean; and of the large take out the brown, and peel off the
skin. Lay them on paper to dry in a cool oven, and keep them in paper
bags in a dry place. When used, simmer them in the gravy, and they will
swell to near their former size. To simmer them in their own liquor till
it dry up into them, shaking the pan, then drying on tin plates, is a
good way, with spice or not, as above, before made into powder.

Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place, or in paper.

_Sugar Vinegar._

To every gallon of water, put two pounds of the very coarsest sugar:
boil and skim thoroughly; then put one quart of cold water for every
gallon of hot. When _cool_, put into it a toast spread with yeast. Stir
it nine days; then barrel, and set it in a place where the sun will lie
on it, with a bit of slate on the bunghole.

When sufficiently sour, it may be bottled: or may be used from the cask,
with a wooden spigot and faucet.

_Gooseberry Vinegar._

Boil spring water; and when cold, put to every three quarts, a quart of
bruised ripe gooseberries in a large tub. Let them remain sixty hours,
stirring often: then strain through a hair bag, and to each gallon of
liquor add a pound of the coarsest sugar. Put it into a barrel, and a
toast and yeast, cover the bunghole with a bit of slate, &c. as above.
The greater quantity of sugar and fruit, the stronger the vinegar.

_Wine Vinegar._

After making raisin wine, when the fruit has been strained, lay it on a
heap to heat: then to every hundred weight put fifteen gallons of water.
Set the cask, and put yeast, &c. as before.

As vinegar is so necessary an article in a family, and one on which so
great a profit is made, a barrel or two might always be kept preparing,
according to what suited. If the raisins of wine were ready, that kind
might be made: if a great plenty of gooseberries made them cheap, that
sort; or if neither, then the sugar vinegar, so that the cask may not be
left empty, and grow musty.

_Kitchen Pepper._

Mix in the finest powder, one ounce of ginger; of cinnamon, black
pepper, nutmeg, and Jamaica pepper, half an ounce of each; ten cloves,
and six ounces of salt. Keep it in a bottle. It is an agreeable addition
to any brown sauces or soups.

Spice in powder, kept in small bottles, close stopped, goes much further
than when used whole. It must be dried before pounded; and should be
done in quantities that may be wanted in three or four months. Nutmeg
need not be done; but the others should be kept in separate bottles,
with a little label on each.

_Browning, to colour and flavour made dishes._

Beat to powder four ounces of doubly refined sugar: put it into a very
nice iron fryingpan, with one ounce of fine fresh butter: mix it well
over a clear fire, and when it begins to froth, hold it up higher. When
of a very fine dark brown, pour in a small quantity of a pint of port
wine; and the whole by very slow degrees, stirring all the time. Put to
the above half an ounce of Jamaica, and the same of black pepper, six
cloves of shalots peeled, three blades of mace bruised, three spoonfuls
of mushroom, and the same of walnut catsup, some salt, and the finely
pared rind of a lemon. Boil gently fifteen minutes; pour it into a bason
till cold; take off the scum, and bottle for use.

_To make Sprats taste like Anchovies._

Salt them well, and let the salt drain from them. In twenty four hours
wipe them dry, but do not wash them. Mix four ounces of common salt, an
ounce of bay salt, an ounce of saltpetre, a quarter of an ounce of sal
prunel, and half a teaspoonful of cochineal, all in the finest powder.
Sprinkle it among three quarts of the fish, and pack them in two stone
jars. Keep in a cold place, fastened down with a bladder.

These are pleasant on bread and butter: but have the best for sauce.

_To keep Anchovies when the liquor dries._

Pour on them beef brine.

_To keep Capers._

Add fresh vinegar, that has been scalded, and become cold; and tie them
close, to keep out the air.

_To make Mustard._

Mix the best Durham flour of mustard by degrees, with boiling water, to
a proper thickness, rubbing it perfectly smooth: add a little salt, and
keep it in a small jar, close covered; and put only as much into the
glass as will be used soon; which should be wiped daily round the edges.

_Another way for immediate use._

Mix the mustard with new milk by degrees, to be quite smooth, and add a
little raw cream. It is much softer this way, is not bitter, and will
keep well.

The patent mustard is by many preferred, and it is perhaps as cheap,
being always ready: and if the pots are returned, three pence is allowed
for each.

A teaspoonful of sugar to half a pint of mustard, is a great
improvement, and softens it.

PICKLES.

_India._

Lay a pound of white ginger in water one night: then scrape, slice, and
lay it in salt in a pan till the other ingredients shall be ready.

Peel, slice, and salt a pound of garlick three days; then put it in the
sun to dry. Salt and dry long pepper in the same way.

Prepare various sorts of vegetables thus:

Quarter small white cabbages: salt three days: squeeze and set them in
the sun to dry.

Cauliflowers cut in their branches: take off the green from radishes:
cut celery in three inch lengths: ditto French beans whole, likewise the
shoots of alder, which will look like bamboo. Apples and cucumbers,
choose of the least seedy sort; cut them in slices, or quarters, if not
too large. All must be salted, drained, and dried in the sun, except the
latter; over which you must pour boiling vinegar, and, in twelve hours,
drain them, but no salt must be used.

Put the spice, garlick, a quarter of a pound of mustardseed, and as much
vinegar as you think enough for the quantity you are to pickle, into a
large stonejar, and one ounce of turmeric to be ready against the
vegetables shall be dried. When they are ready, observe the following
directions: put some of them into a two quart stonejar, and pour over
them one quart of boiling vinegar: next day take out those vegetables,
and when drained, put them into a large stock jar, and boiling the
vinegar, pour it over some more of the vegetables; let them lie a night,
and do as above. Thus proceed till you have cleansed each set from the
dust which must inevitably fall on them by being so long in doing: then,
to every gallon of vinegar, put two ounces of flour of mustard, mixing,
by degrees, with a little of it boiling hot. The whole of the vinegar
should have been previously scalded, but left to be cool before put to
the spice. Stop the jar tight.

This pickle will not be ready for a year; but you may make a small jar
for eating in a fortnight, by only giving them one scald in water, after
salting and drying as above, but without the preparative vinegar; then
pour the vinegar that has the spice and garlick, boiling hot over. If at
any time it be found that the vegetables have not swelled properly,
boiling the pickle, and pouring it over them hot, will plump them.

_English Bamboo, to Pickle._

Cut the large young shoots of alder, which put out in the middle of May,
(the middle stalks are most tender) peel off the outward peel, or skin,
and lay them in salt and water, very strong, one night. Dry them piece
by piece in a cloth. Have in readiness a pickle thus made and boiled. To
a quart of vinegar put an ounce of white pepper, an ounce of sliced
ginger, a little mace and pimento, and pour boiling on the alder shoots,
in a stonejar: stop close, and set by the fire two hours, turning the
jar often, to keep scalding hot. If not green when cold, strain, off the
liquor, and pour boiling hot again; keeping it hot as before. Or, if you
intend to make Indian pickle, the above shoots are a great improvement
to it: in which case you need only pour boiling vinegar and mustardseed
on them; and keep them till your jar of pickles shall be ready to
receive them.

_Melon Mangoes._

There is a particular sort for this purpose which the gardeners know.
Cut a square small piece out of one side, and through that take out the
seeds, and mix with them mustard seeds and shred garlick; stuff the
melon as full as the space will allow, and replace the square piece.
Bind it up with a small new packthread. Boil a good quantity of vinegar,
to allow for wasting, with peppers, salt, ginger, and pour boiling hot
over the mangoes four successive days; the last, put flour of mustard,
and scraped horseradish into the vinegar just as it boils up. Stop
close. Observe that there is plenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled
if not well covered. Mangoes should be done soon after they are
gathered.

_Pickled Onions._

In the month of September, choose the small white round onions, take off
the brown skin; have ready a very nice tin stewpan of boiling water;
throw in as many onions as will cover the top. As soon as they look
clear on the outside, take them up as quick as possible with a slice,
and lay them on a clean cloth, cover them close with another, and scald
some more, and so on. Let them lie to be cold, then put them in a jar,
or glass widemouth bottle, and pour over them the best white wine
vinegar, just hot, but not boiling. When cold, cover them.

_Cucumbers and Onions sliced._

Cut them in slices, and sprinkle salt over them: next day drain them for
five or six hours, then put them into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar
over them, keeping in a warm place. The slices should be thick. Repeat
the boiling vinegar, and stop instantly; and so on till green.

_Pickled sliced Cucumbers, another way._

Slice large unpared cucumbers, an inch thick; slice onions, and put both
into a broad pan: strew a good deal of salt among them. In twenty four
hours drain them, and then lay them on a cloth to dry. Put them in small
stonejars, and pour in the strongest plain vinegar, boiling hot: stop
the jars close. Next day boil it again, and pour over, and thus thrice;
the last time add whole white pepper, and a little ginger. Keep close
covered.

_Young Cucumbers._

Choose nice young gherkins; spread them on dishes; salt them, and let
them lie a week: drain them, and, putting them in a jar, pour boiling
vinegar over them. Set them near the fire, covered with plenty of
vineleaves. If they do not become a tolerable good green, pour the
vinegar into another jar, set it over the hot hearth, and when it boils,
pour it over them again, covering with fresh leaves; and thus do till
they are of as good a colour as you wish: but as it is now known, that
the very fine green pickles are made so by using brass or bell metal
vessels, which, when vinegar is put into them, become highly poisonous,
few people like to eat them.

_Note._ Acids dissolve the lead in the tinning of saucepans. Pickles
should never be kept in glazed jars, but in stone or glass; and vinegar,
or any acids, should be boiled, by putting them in jars of stone, over a
hot hearth, or in a kettle of water.

_To Pickle Walnuts._

When they will bear a pin to go into them, put on them a brine of salt
and water boiled, and strong enough to bear an egg, being quite cold
first. It must be well skimmed while boiling. Let them soak twelve days,
then drain them, and pour over them in the jar a pickle of the best
white wine vinegar, with a good quantity of pepper, pimento, ginger,
mace, cloves, mustardseed, and horseradish; all boiled together, but
cold. To every hundred of walnuts, put six spoonfuls of mustardseed, and
two or three heads of garlick, or shalot; but the latter is least
strong.

Thus done, they will be good for several years, if kept close covered.
The air will soften them. They will not be fit to eat under six months.

The pickle will serve as good catsup, when the walnuts are used.

_Nasturtions, for Capers._

Keep them a few days after they are gathered; then pour boiling vinegar
over them, and when cold, cover.

They will not be fit to eat for some months; but are then finely
flavoured, and by many preferred to capers.

_An excellent way to Pickle Mushrooms, to preserve the flavour._

Buttons must be rubbed with a bit of flannel and salt; and from the
larger, take out the _red_ inside, for when they are _black_ they will
not do, being too old. Throw a little salt over, and put them into a
stewpan, with some mace, and pepper. As the liquor comes out, shake them
well, and keep them over a gentle fire till all of it be dried into them
again; then put as much vinegar into the pan as will cover them; give it
one warm, and turn all into a glass or stonejar. They will keep two
years, and are delicious.

_Red Cabbage._

Slice it into a colander, and sprinkle each layer with salt; let it
drain two days, then put it into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar enough
to cover, and put a few slices of red beet root. Observe to choose the
purple red cabbage. Those who like the flavour of spice, will boil it
with the vinegar. Cauliflower, cut in branches, and thrown in after
being salted, will look of a beautiful red.

_To Stew Green Peas._

Put a quart of pease, a lettuce, an onion, both sliced, a bit of butter,
pepper, salt, and no more water than hangs round the lettuce from
washing. Stew them two hours very gently. When to be served, beat up an
egg, and stir into them, or a bit of flour and butter.

Some think a teaspoonful of white powdered sugar is an improvement.
Gravy may be added; but there will be less of the flavour of the peas.
Chop a bit of mint, and stew in them.

_To stew Cucumbers._

Slice them thick, or halve, and divide them in two lengths: strew some
salt and pepper, and slice onions; add a little broth, or a bit of
butter. Simmer very slowly; and, before serving, if no butter was in
before, put some, and a little flour; or if it was in, only a little
flour, unless it wants richness.

_Another way._

Slice the onions, and cut the cucumbers large; flour and fry them in
some butter: then pour on some good broth or gravy, and stew till
enough. Skim off the fat.

_Stewed Onions._

Peel six large onions: fry them gently of a fine brown, but do not
blacken; then put them in a small stewpan, with a little weak gravy,
pepper, and salt: cover and stew two hours gently. They should be
lightly floured at first.

_Roast Onions._

Should be done with all the skins on. They eat well alone, with salt
only, and cold butter; or with roast potatoes, or with beetroots.

_Stewed Celery._

Wash, and strip off the outer leaves of six heads; halve, or leave them
whole according to their size; cut them in four inch lengths. Put them
in a stewpan with a cup of broth, or weak white gravy. Stew till tender;
then add two spoonfuls of cream, and a little flour and butter, seasoned
with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and simmer all together.

_Cauliflower in white Sauce._

Half boil, then cut into handsome pieces, and lay into a stewpan, with a
little broth, a bit of mace, a little salt, and a dust of white pepper.
Simmer half an hour; then put a little cream, butter, and flour; shake
and simmer a few minutes, and serve.

_Spinach_

Should be very carefully picked and washed; then boil, and squeeze it
dry. Put it in a pan with a bit of butter, salt, and pepper; stew it,
and serve.

_French way._

Clean as before; then put it into a stewpan without water, a spoonful of
gravy, and a lump of butter, salt, and pepper, and simmer till ready. If
too moist, squeeze the gravy from it.

_Stewed Red Cabbage._

Slice a small, or half a large red cabbage: wash it, and put into a
saucepan, with pepper and salt, no water but what hangs about the
former, and a piece of butter. Stew till quite tender; then when going
to serve, put to it half a cup of vinegar, and stir it over the fire.

Serve for cold meat, or with sausages on it.

_Stewed Mushrooms._

Choose large buttons, or small flaps, before the fringe be turned black:
pick each one separately, and observe there is not a bad one; rub the
former, with a flannel and salt, skin the latter, and take out the
fringe. Throw them into a stewpan, with a little salt, a piece of
butter, and a few peppers; set them on a slack part of the fire, and
shake them sometime. When tender, add two large spoonfuls of cream, and
a dust of flour.

_Stewed Sorrel for Fricandeau, and roast Meat._

Wash the sorrel, and put it in a silver vessel, or stonejar, and no more
water than hangs to the leaves. Simmer in the slowest way you can; and
when done enough, put a bit of butter, and beat it well.

_Stewed Carrots._

Half boil, then nicely scrape, and slice them into a stewpan. Put to
them half a teacup of any weak broth, some pepper, and salt, and half a
cup of cream; simmer to be very tender, but not broke. Before serving,
rub the least flour with a bit of butter, and warm up with it. If
approved, chopped parsley may be added ten minutes before served.

_Stewed old Peas._

Steep them in water all night, if not fine boilers, otherwise only half
an hour; put them with water enough just to cover them, and a good bit
of butter, or a piece of beef or pork. Stew in the most gentle way till
the peas are soft, and the meat is tender. If not salt meat, add salt,
and a little pepper, and serve round the meat.

_French Sallad._

Chop three anchovies, a shalot, and some parsley small; put them in a
bowl with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one of oil, a little mustard,
and salt. When well mixed, add by degrees some cold roast or boiled meat
in the very thinnest slices; put in a few at a time, they being small,
not exceeding two or three inches long; shake them in the seasoning, and
then put more; cover the bowl close; and let the sallad be prepared
three hours before it be eaten.

Garnish with parsley, and a few slices of the fat.

_Lobster Sallad._

Make a sallad, and put some of the red part of the lobster to it, cut;
which forms a pretty contrast to the white and green of the vegetables.

Do not put much oil, as shellfish take off the acidity of vinegar.

Serve in a dish, not a bowl.

_To boil Potatoes._

Set them on a fire, unpared, in cold water; let them half boil, then
throw some salt in, and a pint of cold water, and let them boil again
till near done. Pour off the water, and put a clean cloth over them, and
then the saucepan cover, and set them by the fire to steam till ready.
Many use steamers.

_To broil Potatoes._

Parboil, then slice and broil them; or parboil, and set them whole on
the gridiron over a very slow fire; and when thoroughly done, send up
with their skins on. The latter is done in many Irish families.

_To roast Potatoes._

Half boil, take off the thin peel, and roast them of a beautiful brown.

_To fry Potatoes._

Slice raw potatoes after the skin is removed, and fry either in butter,
or thin batter.

_To mash Potatoes._

Boil, peel, and break to paste the potatoes; then, to two pounds, add a
quarter of a pint of milk, and a little salt, with two or three ounces
of butter, and stir all well over the fire. Serve thus, or brown the
top, when placed on the dish in a form, with a salamander; or in
scollops.

_To mash Parsnips._

Boil tender; scrape them; then mash into a stewpan, with a little cream,
a good piece of butter, pepper, and salt.

_To keep Green Peas._

Shell, and put them into a kettle of water when it boils: give them two
or three warms only, and pour them into a colander. When the water
drains off, turn them on a dresser covered with cloth; pour them on
another cloth to dry perfectly: then bottle them in widemouth bottles,
leaving only room to pour clarified mutton suet upon them an inch thick,
and for the cork; rosin it down, and keep in a cellar, or in the earth,
as ordered for gooseberries. Boil them, with a bit of butter, a spoonful
of sugar, and a bit of mint, till tender, when to be used.

_Another way, as practised in the Emperor of Russia’s Kitchen._

Shell, scald, and dry as above. Put them on tins or earthen dishes in a
cool oven to harden, once or twice. Keep them in paper bags hung up in
the kitchen. When to be used, let them lie an hour in water; then set
them on with cold water, and a bit of butter, and boil till ready. Put a
sprig of dried mint to boil with them.

_To preserve French Beans, to eat in the Winter._

Pick them young, and throw into a little wooden keg a layer three inches
deep; then sprinkle with salt: put another layer of beans, and do the
same as high as you think proper, alternately with salt; but do not be
too liberal of the latter: lay a plate, or cover of wood that will go
into the keg, and put on it a heavy stone. A pickle will rise from the
beans and salt. If too salt, the soaking and boiling will not be
sufficient to make them pleasant to the taste. When to be eaten, cut,
soak, and boil as when fresh.

Potatoes should be kept in the earth that adheres to them when dug; and
preserved from frost.

Carrots, parsnips, and turnips the same, and put in layers of dry sand.

Small close cabbages laid on a stone floor before the frost sets in,
will blanch and be very fine, after many weeks’ keeping.

_To boil Vegetables Green._

Be sure the water boils when you put them in; when in, make them boil
very fast. Do not cover, but watch them; and if the water has not
slackened, you may be assured they are done when they are beginning to
sink; take them out immediately, or the colour will change.

_Small Dishes for Supper, &c._

Boil eggs hard, cut them in half, take out the yelks, set the whites on
a dish, and fill with the following several ingredients; or put a saucer
upside down on a plate, and place them in quarters round: in either case
as a salmagundi. Chopped veal, yelk of egg, beetroot, anchovy, apple,
onion, ham, and parsley. A very small bit of the white of the egg must
be cut off, to make it stand on the dish as a cup.

_Orange Butter._

Boil six eggs hard: beat the yelks in a mortar with fine sugar, orange
flower water, four ounces of butter, and two ounces of almonds beaten to
a paste. When all is mixed, rub it through a colander on a dish.

Roll butter in different forms; either like a pine, having made it in
the shape of a cone, and marking it with a teaspoon; or rolling in a
crimping form, or working it through a colander. Serve with scraped beef
or anchovies, garnished with a wreath of curled parsley.

Rusks buttered, and anchovies split and rolled.

Grated hung beef on rusks buttered.

Grated cheese on ditto, or in a plate.

Radishes placed round a plate, and butter in the middle.

French beans boiled of a beautiful green, and served with a cream sauce.

Jerusalem artichokes or cauliflowers in ditto.

Broccoli boiled, served on toast, to eat with poached eggs.

Stewed vegetables.

Eggs poached on toast or spinach.

Eggs buttered on toast.

Custards in cups or glasses, with toast in long sippets.

Cold meat in slices on a dish, or as Sandwiches.

Ham. Tongue. Collared things. Hunter’s beef.

Oysters cold, scalloped, stewed, or pickled.

Potted meat, birds, fish, or cheese.

Pickled or baked fish.

Common cake. Baked or stewed fruits.

Pies of meat, fowl, or fruit.

Potatoes roasted, boiled, scalloped, mashed, &c.

Collared beef, veal, or pig’s head.

Lobsters. Crabs. Prawns.

Sweetbreads. Small birds.

_Forcemeat for Patties, Balls or Stuffing._

Crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, fat bacon, (if it has been dressed it
is the better,) suet, a bit of fresh butter, a little anchovy liquor, an
egg, a bit of onion, a very little knotted marjorum, a little pepper,
salt, and nutmeg.

This is a much admired mixture; but, according to the purpose it is for,
any addition may be made to the flavour. Cold ham or gammon, different
herbs, anchovies, oysters, Cayenne.

_Note._ To the above should have been added cold veal or chicken, which
is a great improvement. Some like lemon, and lemon thyme is a good
substitute. Tarragon gives a French flavour, but a very small proportion
is sufficient.

_Fried Patties._

Mince a bit of cold veal, and six oysters; mix with a few crumbs of
bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a very small bit of lemonpeel; add the
liquor of the oysters: warm all in a tosser, but do not boil. Let it go
cold. Have ready a good puff paste, roll thin, and cut it in round or
square bits. Put some of the above between two of them; twist the edges
to keep in the gravy, and fry them of a fine brown.

This is a very good thing; and baked, is a fashionable dish.

_Oyster Patties._

Put a fine puff paste into small pattypans, and a bit of bread in each;
and against they are baked, have ready the following to fill with,
taking out the bread. Take off the beards of the oysters; cut the other
parts in small bits; put them in a small tosser, with a grate of nutmeg,
the least white pepper, and salt, a morsel of lemonpeel, cut so small
that you can scarcely see it, a little cream, and a little of the oyster
liquor. Simmer for a few minutes before you fill.

_Lobster Patties._

Make with the same seasoning, a little cream, and the smallest bit of
butter.

Beef and veal patties, as likewise turkey and chicken, are under the
several articles in the foregoing pages.

_Sweet Patties._

Chop the meat of a boiled calf’s foot, of which you use the liquor for
jelly, two apples, one ounce of orange and lemonpeel candied, and some
fresh peel and juice: mix with them half a nutmeg grated, the yelk of an
egg, a spoonful of brandy, and four ounces of currants washed and dried.

Bake in small pattypans.

_Patties resembling Mincepies._

Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, orange and lemonpeel
candied, and fresh currants, a little wine, two or three cloves, a
little brandy, and a bit of sugar. Bake in puff paste as before.

_Mincepie_.

Of scraped beef free from skin and strings, weigh two pounds; four
pounds of suet picked and chopped; then add six pounds of currants,
nicely cleaned and perfectly dry, three pounds of chopped apples, the
peel and juice of two lemons, a pint of sweet wine, a nutmeg, a quarter
of an ounce of cloves, ditto mace, ditto pimento, in finest powder;
press the whole into a deep pan when well mixed, and keep it covered in
a dry cool place.

Half the quantity is enough, unless for a very large family.

Have citron, orange, and lemonpeel ready, and put some of each in the
pies when made.

_Mincepies, without Meat._

Of the best apples six pounds, pared, cored, and minced; of fresh suet,
and raisins stoned, each three pounds, likewise minced: to these add of
mace and cinnamon a quarter of an ounce each, and eight cloves, in
finest powder, three pounds of the finest powder sugar, three quarters
of an ounce of salt, the rinds of four and juice of two lemons, half a
pint of port wine, and the same of brandy. Mix well, and put into a deep
pan.

Have ready washed and dried four pounds of currants, and add as you make
the pies, with candied fruit.

_Lemon Mincepies._

Squeeze a large lemon: boil the outside till tender enough to beat to a
mash: add to it three large apples chopped, four ounces of suet, half a
pound of currants, and four ounces of sugar. Put the juice of the lemon
and candied fruit, as for other pies. Make a short crust, and fill the
patty pans as usual.

_Egg Mincepies._

Boil six eggs hard, and shred them small: shred double the quantity of
suet; then put currants washed and picked, one pound or more, if the
eggs were large; the peel of one lemon shred very fine, half the juice,
six spoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very little salt,
orange, lemon, and citron candied. Make a light paste for them.

_Savory Rice._

Wash and pick some rice: stew it very gently in a small quantity of
veal, or rich mutton broth, with an onion, a blade of mace, pepper, and
salt. When swelled, but not boiled to mash, dry it on the shallow end of
a sieve before the fire, and either serve it dry, or put it in the
middle of a dish, and pour the gravy round, having heated it.

_Buttered Rice._

Prepare some rice as above: drain, and put it with some new milk, enough
just to swell it, over the fire. When tender, pour off the milk, and add
a bit of butter, a little sugar, and pounded cinnamon. Shake it, that it
do not burn, and serve.

_Rice boiled to eat with Curry or roast Meats._

Prepare as above; then put it into a large quantity of water, boil it
quick, throw in a little salt, and observe the very moment when it is
swelled large, but not too much softened; then drain off the water, and
pour the rice on the shallow end of a sieve: set it before a fire, and
let it stay until it separates and dries. Serve it without sauce of any
kind.

_Omlet._

Make a batter of eggs and milk, and a very little flour; put to it
chopped parsley, onions, or chives (the latter is best); or a very small
quantity of shalot, a little pepper, salt, and a scrape or two of
nutmeg. Make some very nice dripping: boil in a small fryingpan, and
pour the above batter into it. When one side is of a fine yellow brown,
turn and do the other. Some scraped lean ham, put in at first, is a very
pleasant addition. Three eggs will make a pretty sized omlet; but many
cooks will use eight or ten.

If the taste be approved, a _little_ tarragon gives a fine flavour. A
good deal of parsley should be used.

_Ramakins._

Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire, and ditto of Gloucester cheese,
ditto of good fresh butter; then beat all in a mortar with the yelks of
four eggs, and the inside of a small French roll boiled in cream till
soft. Mix the paste then with the whites of the eggs previously beaten,
and put into small paper pans made rather long than square, and bake in
a Dutch oven till of a fine brown. They should be eaten quite hot.

_Bacon Fraise._

Cut streaked bacon in thin slices an inch long; make a batter of milk,
well beaten eggs, and flour; put a little lard or dripping into the pan,
and when hot pour the batter in, and cover it with a dish. When fit to
turn, put in the bacon, and turn it very carefully, that the bacon does
not touch the pan.

_Rich Puff Paste._

Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much fine flour as you judge
necessary; mix a little of the former with the latter, and wet it with
as little water as will make into a stiff paste. Roll it out, and put
all the butter over it in slices; turn in the ends, and roll it thin; do
this twice, and touch it no more than can be avoided. The butter may be
added at twice; and to those who are not accustomed to make paste, it
may be better to do so.

A quicker oven than for short crust.

_A less rich Paste._

Weigh a pound of flour, and a quarter of a pound of butter; rub them
together, and mix into a paste with a little water, and an egg well
beaten; of the former as little as will suffice, or the paste will be
tough. Roll, and fold it three or four times.

Rub extremely fine, in one pound of dried flour, six ounces of butter,
and a spoonful of white sugar. Work up the whole into a stiff paste,
with as little _hot_ water as possible.

_German Puffs another way._

Boil two ounces of fresh butter in half a pint of cream; stir until
cold; then beat two eggs, strain them into the cream, and mix that by
degrees into two table spoonfuls of flour: butter teacups, and into each
put three spoonfuls of the batter; bake them half an hour, and serve the
moment they are to be eaten, turned out of the cups, with sauce of
melted butter, sugar, and the juice of a lemon.

_Excellent short Crust._

Make two ounces of white sugar, pounded and sifted, quite dry; then mix
it with a pound of flour well dried; rub into it three ounces of butter
so fine as not to be seen: into some cream put the yelks of two eggs
beaten, and mix the above into a smooth paste; roll it thin, and bake in
a moderate oven.

_Another._

Mix with a pound of fine flour, dried, an ounce of sugar pounded and
sifted; then crumble three ounces of butter in it, till it looks all
like flour, and with a gill of boiling cream, work it up to a fine
paste.

_Light Paste for Tarts and Cheesecakes._

Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth; then mix it with as much
water as will make three quarters of a pound of fine flour into a very
stiff paste: roll it very thin, then lay the third part of half a pound
of butter upon it in little bits: dredge it with some flour, left out at
first, and roll it up tight. Roll it out again, and put the same
proportion of butter; and so proceed till all be worked up.

_A very fine Crust for Orange Cheesecakes or Sweetmeats, when to be
particularly nice._

Dry a pound of the finest flour, and mix with it three ounces of refined
sugar; then work half a pound of butter with your hand till it comes to
a froth. Put the flour into it by degrees; and work into it, well
beaten, and strained, the yelks of three and whites of two eggs. If too
limber, put some flour and sugar to make fit to roll. Line your
pattypans and fill. A little above fifteen minutes will bake them.
Against they come out, have ready some refined sugar, beat up with the
white of an egg, as thick as you can: ice them all over: set them in the
oven to harden, and serve cold. Use fresh butter.

Salt butter will make a very fine flaky crust; but if for mincepies, or
any sweet thing, should be washed.

_Raised Crust for Custards or Fruit._

Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan with water; and when it boils,
pour it into as much flour as you choose, knead and beat it till smooth:
cover it as on the other side. Raise it; and if for custard, put a paper
within to keep out the sides till half done, then fill with a cold
mixture of milk, egg, sugar, and a little peachwater, lemonpeel, or
nutmeg. By cold is meant that the egg is not to be warmed, but the milk
should be warmed by itself; not to spoil the crust.

_Raised Crust for Meatpies or Fowls, &c._

Boil water with a little fine lard, and an equal quantity of fresh
dripping, or of butter, but not much of either. While hot, mix this with
as much flour as you will want, making the paste as stiff as you can to
be smooth, which you will make it by good kneading, and beating with the
rolling pin. When quite smooth, put it in a lump into a cloth, or under
a pan to soak, till near cold.

Those who have not a good hand at raising crust, may do thus: roll the
paste of a proper thickness, and cut out the top and bottom of the pie,
then a long piece for the sides. Cement the bottom to the sides with
egg, bringing the former rather further out, and pinching both together;
put egg between the edges of the paste to make it adhere at the sides.
Fill your pie, and put on the cover, and pinch it and the side crust
together. The same mode of uniting the paste is to be observed, if the
sides are pressed into a tin form, in which the paste must be baked,
after it shall be filled and covered; but in the latter case the tin
should be buttered, and carefully taken off when done enough; and as the
form usually makes the sides of a lighter colour than is proper, the
paste should be put into the oven again for a quarter of an hour. With a
feather put egg over at first.

_Crust for Venison Pastry._

To a quarter of a peck of fine flour use two pounds and a half of
butter, and four eggs: mix into paste with warm water, and work it
smooth and to a good consistence. Put a paste round the inside, but not
to the bottom of the dish, and let the cover be pretty thick, to bear
the long continuance in the oven.

_Rice Pastry._

Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in the smallest quantity of
water: strain from it all the moisture as well as you can. Beat it in a
mortar, with half an ounce of butter, and one egg well beaten, and it
will make an excellent paste for tarts, &c.

_Potatoe Pastry._

Pound boiled potatoes very fine; and add, while warm, a sufficiency of
butter to make the mash hold together. Or you may mix with it an egg;
then before it gets cold, flour the board pretty well to prevent it from
sticking, and roll it to the thickness wanted.

If it is become quite cold before it be put on the dish, it will be apt
to crack.

PUDDINGS.

_Almond Puddings._

Beat half a pound of sweet and a few bitter almonds, with a spoonful of
water; then mix four ounces of butter, four eggs, two spoonfuls of cream
warm with the butter, one of brandy, a little nutmeg and sugar to taste.
Butter some cups, half fill, and bake the puddings.

Serve with butter, wine, and sugar.

_Sago Pudding._

Boil a pint and a half of new milk with four spoonfuls of sago, nicely
washed and picked, lemonpeel, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Sweeten to taste;
then mix four eggs, put a paste round the dish, and bake slowly.

_Bread and Butter Pudding._

Slice bread, spread with butter, and lay it in a dish with currants
between each layer, and sliced citron, orange or lemon, if to be very
nice. Pour over an unboiled custard of milk, two or three eggs, a few
pimentos, and a very little ratafia, two hours at least before it is to
be baked; and lade it over and over to soak the bread.

A paste round the edge makes all puddings look better, but is not
necessary.

_Orange Pudding._

Grate the rind of a Seville orange; put to it six ounces of fresh
butter, six or eight ounces of lump sugar pounded: beat them all in a
marble mortar, and add as you do it the whole of eight eggs well beaten
and strained: scrape a raw apple, and mix with the rest; put a paste at
the bottom and sides of the dish, and, over the orange mixture, put
crossbars of paste. Half an hour will bake it.

_Another Orange Pudding._

Mix of the orange paste hereafter directed two full spoons, with six
eggs, four of sugar, four ounces of butter warm, and put into a shallow
dish, with a paste lining. Bake twenty minutes.

_Another._

Rather more than two table spoonfuls of the orange paste, mixed with six
eggs, four ounces of sugar, and four ounces of butter, melted, will make
a good sized pudding, with a paste at the bottom of the dish. Bake
twenty minutes.

_An excellent Lemon Pudding._

Beat the yelks of four eggs; add four ounces of white sugar, the rind of
a lemon being rubbed with some lumps of it to take the essence: then
peel, and beat it in a mortar with the juice of a large lemon, and mix
all with four or five ounces of butter warmed. Put a crust into a
shallow dish; nick the edges, and put the above into it. When served,
turn the pudding out of the dish.

_A very fine Amber Pudding._

Put a pound of butter into a saucepan, with three quarters of a pound of
loaf sugar, finely powdered; melt the butter and mix well with it: then
add the yelks of fifteen eggs well beaten, and as much fresh candied
orange, as will add colour and flavour to it, being first beaten to a
fine paste. Line the dish with paste for turning out; and when filled
with the above, lay a crust over, as you would a pie, and bake it in a
slow oven.

It is as good cold as hot.

_Baked Apple Pudding._

Pare and quarter four large apples; boil them tender, with the rind of a
lemon, in so little water that when done, none may remain: beat them
quite fine in a mortar: add the crumbs of a small roll, four ounces of
butter melted, the yelks of five and whites of three eggs, juice of half
a lemon, and sugar to taste. Beat all together, and lay it in a dish
with paste to turn out.

_Oatmeal Pudding._

Pour a quart of boiling milk over a pint of the best _fine_ oatmeal; let
it soak all night. Next day beat two eggs, and mix a little salt: butter
a bason that will just hold it: cover it tight with a floured cloth, and
boil it an hour and a half. Eat it with cold butter and salt.

When cold, slice and toast it, and eat it as oatcake buttered.

_Dutch Pudding or Souster._

Melt one pound of butter in half a pint of milk; mix it into two pounds
of flour, eight eggs, four spoonfuls of yeast: add one pound of
currants, a quarter of a pound of sugar beaten and sifted.

This is a very good pudding hot; and equally so as a cake when cold. If
for the latter, carraways may be used instead of currants. An hour will
bake it in a quick oven.

_A Dutch Rice Pudding._

Soak four ounces of rice in warm water half an hour: drain the latter
from it, and throw it into a stewpan, with half a pint of milk, half a
stick of cinnamon, and simmer till tender. When cold, add four whole
eggs well beaten, two ounces of butter melted in a teacupful of cream;
and put three ounces of sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg, and a good piece
of lemonpeel.

Put a light puff paste into a mould or dish, or grated tops and bottoms,
and bake in a quick oven.

_Light, or German Puddings._

Melt three ounces of butter in a pint of cream; let it stand till nearly
cold, then mix two ounces of fine flour, and two ounces of sugar, four
yelks and two whites of eggs, and a little rose or orange flower water.
Bake in little cups, buttered, half an hour. They should be served the
moment they are done, and only when going to be eaten, or they will not
be light.

Turn out of the cups, and serve with white wine and sugar.

_Little Bread Puddings._

Steep the crumbs of a penny loaf in about a pint of warm milk: when
soaked, beat six eggs, whites and yelks, and mix with the bread, and two
ounces of butter warmed, sugar, orange flower water, a spoonful of
brandy, a little nutmeg, and a teacupful of cream. Beat all well, and
bake in teacups buttered. If currants are chosen, a quarter of a pound
is sufficient; if not, they are good without; or you may put orange or
lemon candy. Serve with pudding sauce.

_Puddings in haste._

Shred suet, and put with grated bread, a few currants, the yelks of four
eggs, and the whites of two, some grated lemonpeel, and ginger. Mix, and
make into little balls about the size and shape of an egg, with a little
flour.

Have ready a skellet of boiling water, and throw them in. Twenty minutes
will boil them; but they will rise to the top when done.

Pudding sauce.

_New College Puddings._

Grate the crumbs of a twopenny loaf, shred suet eight ounces, and mix
with eight ounces of currants, one of citron mixed fine, one of orange,
a handful of sugar, half a nutmeg, three eggs beaten, yelk and white
separately. Mix, and make into the size and shape of a goose egg. Put
half a pound of butter into a fryingpan; and when melted, and quite hot,
stew them gently in it over a stove. Turn them two or three times till
of a fine light brown. Mix a glass of brandy with the batter.

Serve with pudding sauce.

_Oxford Dumplings._

Of grated bread two ounces, currants, and shred suet four ounces each,
two large spoonfuls of flour, a great deal of grated lemonpeel, a bit of
sugar, and a little pimento in fine powder. Mix with two eggs and a
little milk into five dumplings, and fry of a fine yellow brown.

Serve with sweet sauce.

_Brown Bread Pudding._

Half a pound of stale brown bread grated, ditto of currants, ditto of
shred suet, sugar, and nutmeg. Mix with four eggs, a spoonful of brandy,
and two spoonfuls of cream. Boil, in a cloth or bason that exactly holds
it, three or four hours.

_Boiled Bread Pudding._

Grate with bread, pour boiling milk over it, and cover close. When
soaked an hour or two, beat it fine, and mix with it two or three eggs
well beaten.

Put it into a bason that will just hold it; tie a floured cloth over it,
and put it into boiling water. Send it up with melted butter poured
over.

It may be eaten with salt or sugar.

_Another, and richer Bread Pudding._

On half a pint of crumbs of bread, pour half a pint of scalding milk;
cover for an hour. Beat up four eggs, and, when strained, add to the
bread, with a teaspoonful of flour, an ounce of butter, two ounces of
sugar, half a pound of currants, an ounce of almonds beaten with orange
flour water, half an ounce of orange, ditto lemon, ditto citron. Butter
a bason that will exactly hold it; flour the cloth, and tie tight over,
and boil one hour.

_Batter Pudding._

Rub three spoonfuls of fine flour extremely smooth by degrees into a
pint of milk; simmer till it thickens; stir in two ounces of butter; set
it to cool; then add the yelks of three eggs. Flour a cloth that has
been wet, or butter a bason, and put the batter into it; tie it tight,
and plunge it into boiling water, the bottom upwards. Boil it an hour
and a half, and serve with plain butter. If approved, a little ginger,
nutmeg, and lemonpeel may be added, and sweet sauce.

_Batter Pudding with Meat._

Make a batter with flour, milk, and eggs: pour a little into the bottom
of a pudding dish; then put seasoned meat of any kind into it, and a
little shred onion; pour the remainder of the batter over, and bake in a
slow oven.

Some like a loin of mutton baked in batter, being first cleared of most
of the fat.

_Rice small Puddings._

Wash two large spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it with half a pint of milk
till thick. Then put with it the size of an egg of butter, and near half
a pint of thick cream, and give it one boil. When cool, mix four yelks
and two whites of eggs well beaten; sweeten to taste, and add nutmeg,
lemonpeel grated fine, and a little cinnamon powdered.

Butter little cups, and fill three parts full, putting at bottom some
orange or citron. Bake three quarters of an hour in a slowish oven.
Serve the moment before to be eaten, with sweet sauce in the dish, or a
boat.

_Plain Rice Pudding._

Wash and pick some rice; throw among it some pimento finely pounded, but
not much; tie the rice in a cloth, and leave plenty of room for it to
swell. Boil it in a quantity of water for an hour or two. When done, eat
it with butter and sugar, or milk. Put lemonpeel if you please.

It is very good without spice, and eaten with salt and butter.

_Rice Pudding with Fruit._

Swell the rice with a very little milk over the fire; then mix fruit of
any kind with it, (currants; gooseberries scalded; pared and quartered
apples; raisins, or blackcurrants;) with one egg into the rice, to bind
it. Boil it well, and serve with sugar.

_Baked Rice Pudding._

Swell rice as above; then add some more milk, an egg, sugar allspice and
lemonpeel. Bake in a deep dish.

_Another, for the Family._

Put into a very deep pan half a pound of rice, washed and picked, two
ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar, a few allspice pounded, and two
quarts of milk. Less butter will do, or some suet. Bake in a slow oven.

_Note._ Eggs in rice pudding, if made of whole rice, causes the milk to
turn to whey, if not boiled first, and then mixed cool.

_A George Pudding._

Boil very tender a handful of whole rice in a small quantity of milk,
with a large piece of lemonpeel. Let it drain; then mix with it a dozen
of good sized apples, boiled to pulp, and as dry as possible. Add a
glass of white wine, the yelks of five eggs, and two ounces of orange
and citron cut thin; make it pretty sweet. Line a mould or bason with a
very good paste: beat the five whites of the eggs to a very strong
froth, and mix with the other ingredients: fill the mould, and bake it
of a fine brown colour. Serve it with the bottom upward, with the
following sauce: two glasses of wine, a spoonful of sugar, the yelk of
two eggs, and a bit of butter as large as a walnut: simmer without
boiling, and pour to and from the saucepan, till of a proper thickness,
and put in the dish.

_Rice Piecrust._

Clean, and put some rice, with an onion and a little water and milk, or
milk only, into a saucepan, and simmer till it swell. Put seasoned chops
into a dish, and cover it with the rice.

Rabbits fricasseed, and covered thus, are very good.

_Potatoe Pudding with Meat._

Boil them till fit to mash: rub through a colander and make into a thick
batter, with milk and two eggs. Lay some seasoned steaks in a dish, then
some batter; and over the last layer pour the remainder of the batter.
Bake a fine brown.

_Steak, or Kidney Pudding._

If kidney, split, and soak it, and season that or the meat. Make a paste
of suet, flour, and milk: roll it, and line a bason with some: put the
kidney or steaks in, cover with paste, and pinch round the edge. Cover
with a cloth, and boil a considerable time.

_Suet Puddings._

Shred a pound of suet; mix with a pound and a quarter of flour, three
eggs beaten separately, a little salt, and as little milk as will make
it. Boil five hours. It eats well next day, cut in slices and broiled.

_Suet Dumplings._

Make as above, and drop into boiling water, or into the boiling of beef;
or you may boil in a cloth.

_Apple, Currant, or Damson Dumplings or Pudding._

Make as above, and loin a bason with the paste tolerably thin: fill with
the fruit, and cover it: tie a cloth over tight, and boil till the fruit
shall be done enough.

_Snowball._

Swell rice in milk; strain it off, and having pared and cored apples,
put the rice round them, tying each up in a cloth. Put a bit of
lemonpeel, a clove, or cinnamon in each, and boil them well.

_Hunter’s Pudding._

Mix of suet, flour, currants, and raisins stoned and a little cut, a
pound each, the rind of lemon, shred as fine as possible, six Jamaica
peppers in fine powder, four eggs, a glass of brandy, a little salt, and
as little milk as will make it of a proper consistence. Boil it in a
floured cloth, or a melon mould, eight or nine hours. Serve with sweet
sauce. Add sometimes a spoonful of peachwater.

This pudding will keep, after it is boiled, six months, if kept tied up
in the same cloth, and hung up, folded in a sheet of cap paper to
preserve it from dust, being first cold. When to be used, it must boil a
full hour.

_Common Plumb Pudding._

The same proportions of flour and suet, and half the quantity of fruit,
with spice, lemon, a glass of wine, or not, and one egg and milk, will
make an excellent pudding, if long boiled.

_Custard Pudding._

Mix by degrees a pint of good milk with a large spoonful of flour, the
yelks of five eggs, some orange flower water, and a little pounded
cinnamon. Butter a bason that will exactly hold it: pour the batter in,
and tie a floured cloth over it. Put it in boiling water, and turn it
about a few minutes to prevent the egg going to one side. Half an hour
will boil it.

Put currant jelly on it, and serve with sweet sauce.

_A Rich Rice Pudding._

Boil half a pound of rice in water, with a little bit of salt, till
quite tender: drain it dry. Mix it with the yelks and whites of four
eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, with two ounces of fresh butter
melted in the latter, four ounces of beefsuet, or marrow, or veal suet
taken from a fillet of veal, finely shred, three quarters of a pound of
currants, two spoonfuls of brandy, one of peachwater, or ratafia,
nutmeg, and grated lemonpeel. When well mixed, put a paste round the
edge, and fill the dish. Slices of candid orange, lemon, and citron, if
approved. Bake in a moderate oven.

_Millet Pudding._

Wash three spoonfuls of the seed; put it into the dish, with a crust
round the edges: pour over it as much new milk as shall nearly fill the
dish, two ounces of butter warmed with it, sugar, shred lemon, and a
little scrape of ginger and nutmeg. As you put it in the oven, stir in
two eggs beaten; and a spoonful of shred suet.

_An excellent plain Potatoe Pudding._

Take eight ounces of boiled potatoes, two ounces of butter, the yelks
and whites of two eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, one spoonful of
white wine, a morsel of salt, the juice and rind of a lemon. Beat all to
a froth: sugar to taste. A crust or not, as you like. Bake it. If wanted
richer, put three ounces more butter, sweatmeats and almonds, and
another egg.

_Carrot Pudding._

Beat a large carrot tender: bruise it well, and mix with it a
tablespoonful of biscuit beaten to powder or four Naples biscuit, four
yelks and two whites of eggs, a pint of scalded cream, some rose, or
orange flower water, a little ratafia, nutmeg, and sugar. If you have no
scalded cream, raw will do, if very thick. Put a little rim of paste
round the dish, and bake it. Put orange, lemon or citron, cut in good
sized bits.

_An excellent Apricot Pudding._

Halve twelve large apricots: give them a scald till they are soft. Mean
time pour on the grated crumbs of a penny loaf, a pint of boiling cream;
when half cold, four ounces of sugar, the yelks of four beaten eggs, and
a glass of white wine. Pound the apricots in a mortar, with some or all
of the kernels; mix then the fruit and other ingredients together: put a
paste round the dish, and bake the pudding half an hour.

_Baked Gooseberry Pudding._

Stew gooseberries in a jar over a hot hearth, or in a saucepan of water,
till they will pulp. Take a pint of the juice pressed through a sieve,
and beat it with three yelks and whites of eggs, beaten and strained,
and one ounce and a half of butter: sweeten it well, and put a crust
round the dish. A few crumbs of roll should be mixed with the above to
give a little consistence, or four ounces of Naples biscuit.

_A Green Bean Pudding._

Boil and blanch old beans, beat them in a mortar with very little pepper
and salt, some cream, and the yelk of an egg. A little spinach juice
will give a finer colour, but it is as good without. Boil it in a bason
that will just hold it, for an hour and pour parsley and butter over.

Serve bacon to eat with it.

_Baked Almond Pudding._

Beat fine four ounces of almonds, four or five bitter ditto, with a
little wine, yelks of six eggs, peel of two lemons grated, six ounces of
butter, near a quart of cream, juice of one lemon. When well mixed, bake
it half an hour, with a paste round the dish.

_Shelford Pudding._

Mix three quarters of a pound of currants, or raisins, one pound of
suet, one pound of flour, six eggs, a little good milk, some lemonpeel,
and a little salt. Boil it in a melon shape six hours.

_Brandy Pudding._

Line a mould with jar raisins stoned, or dried cherries, then with thin
slices of French roll; next to which put ratafias, or macaroons, then
the fruit, roll, and cakes in succession, until the mould be full;
sprinkling in at times two glasses of brandy. Beat four eggs, yelks and
whites: put to them a pint of milk or cream, lightly sweetened, with
half a nutmeg, and the rind of half a lemon finely grated. Let the
liquid sink into the solid part; then flour a cloth, tie it tight over,
and boil one hour; keep the mould the right side up. Serve with pudding
sauce.

_Buttermilk Pudding._

Warm three quarts of new milk, and turn it with a quart of buttermilk:
when ready, drain the curd through a sieve: when dry, pound it in a
marble mortar, with near half a pound of sugar, a lemon boiled tender,
the crumbs of a roll grated, a nutmeg grated, six bitter almonds, four
ounces of warm butter, a teacupful of good cream, the yelks of five, and
whites of three eggs, a glass of sweet wine, and one of brandy.

When well incorporated, bake in small cups or bowls well buttered. If
the bottom be not brown, use a salamander: but serve as quick as
possible, and with pudding sauce.

_Curd Puddings, or Puffs._

Turn two quarts of milk to curd; press the whey from it; rub it through
a sieve, and mix four ounces of butter, the crumbs of a penny loaf, two
spoonfuls of cream, half a nutmeg, a small quantity of sugar, and two
spoonfuls of white wine. Butter little cups, or small pattypans, and
fill them three parts. Orange flower water is an improvement. Bake them
with care.

Serve with sweet sauce in a boat.

_Boiled Curd Pudding._

Rub the curd of two gallons of milk, when drained, through a sieve. Mix
it with six eggs, a little cream, two spoonfuls of orange flower water,
half a nutmeg, of flour and crumbs of bread each three spoonfuls,
currants and raisins half a pound of each. Boil an hour in a thick well
floured cloth.

_Small Almond Puddings._

Pound eight ounces of almonds, and a few bitter, with a spoonful of
water and mix with four ounces of butter warmed, four yelks and two
whites of eggs, sugar to taste, two spoonfuls of cream, and one of
brandy; mix well, and bake in little cups buttered. Serve with pudding
sauce.

_Excellent light Puffs._

Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little grated lemonpeel, some nutmeg, half
a spoonful of brandy, a little loaf sugar, and one egg: then fry it
enough, but not brown; beat it in a mortar with five eggs, whites and
yelks; put a quantity of lard in a fryingpan, and when quite hot, drop a
dessert spoonful of batter at a time: turn as they brown. They will be
large. Serve immediately. Sweet sauce.

_Pippin Pudding._

Coddle six pippins in vineleaves covered with water, but very gently,
that the inside be done without breaking the skins. When soft, take off
the skins, and with a teaspoon take the pulp from the core. Press it
through a colander; add to it two spoonfuls of orange flower water,
three eggs beaten, a pint of scalded cream, sugar and nutmeg to taste.
Lay a thin puff paste at the bottom and sides of the dish: shred some
very thin lemonpeel as fine as possible, and put into the dish; as
likewise some orange and citron in small slices.

_Yorkshire Pudding._

Mix five spoonfuls of flour, with a quart of milk, and three eggs well
beaten. Butter the pan. When brown by baking under the meat, turn the
other side upwards, and brown that. It should be made in a square pan,
and cut into pieces to come to table. Set it over a chafing dish at
first, and stir it some minutes.

_A quick made Pudding._

Flour and suet half a pound each, four eggs, a quarter of a pint of new
milk, a little mace and nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of raisins, ditto
of currants: mix well, and boil three quarters of an hour with the cover
of the pot on, or it will require longer.

_Yeast or Suffolk Dumplings._

Make a very light dough with yeast, as for bread, but with milk instead
of water, and put salt. Let it rise an hour before the fire.

Twenty minutes before you are to serve, have ready a large stewpan of
boiling water. Make the dough into balls, the size of a middling apple,
throw them in, and boil twenty minutes. If you doubt when done enough,
stick a clean fork into one, and if it come out clear, it is done.

The way to eat them is to tear them apart on the top with two forks, for
they become heavy by their own steam. Eat immediately with meat, sugar,
butter or salt.

_Russian Seed, or ground Rice Pudding._

Boil a large spoonful heaped of either in a pint of new milk, with
lemonpeel and cinnamon. When cold add sugar, nutmeg, and two eggs, well
beaten. Bake with a crust round the dish.

_Observations on making Puddings._

The outside of a boiled pudding often tastes disagreeably, which arises
from the cloth not being nicely washed, and kept in a dry place. It
should be dipped in boiling water, squeezed dry, and floured, when to be
used.

If bread, it should be tied loose; if batter, tight over.

The water should boil quick when the pudding is put in; and it should be
moved about for a minute, lest the ingredients should not mix.

Batter pudding should be strained through a coarse sieve, when all is
mixed. In others the eggs separately.

The pans and basons must be always buttered.

A pan of cold water should be ready, and the pudding dipt in as soon as
it comes out of the pot, and then it will not adhere to the cloth.

SWEET DISHES.

_Lemon Custards._

Beat the yelks of eight eggs till they are as white as milk; then put to
them a pint of boiling water, the rinds of two lemons grated, and the
juice sweetened to your taste. Stir it on the fire till thick enough,
then add a large glass of rich wine, and half a glass of brandy; give
the whole one scald, and put it in cups, to be eaten cold.

_Lent Potatoes._

Beat three or four ounces of almonds, and three or four bitter, when
blanched, putting a little orange flower water to prevent oiling: add
eight ounces of butter, four eggs well beaten and strained, half a glass
of raisin wine, and sugar to your taste. Beat all well till quite
smooth, and grate in three Savoy biscuit. Make balls of the above, with
a little flour, the size of a chestnut; throw them into a stewpan of
boiling lard, and boil them of a beautiful yellow brown. Drain them on a
sieve.

Serve sweet sauce in a boat, to eat with them.

_Rice Flummery._

Boil with a pint of new milk, a bit of lemonpeel, and cinnamon: mix with
a little cold milk, as much rice flour as will make the whole of a good
consistence: sweeten, and add a spoonful of peachwater, or a bitter
almond beaten. Boil it, observing it does not burn. Pour it into a shape
or pint bason, taking out the spice. When cold, turn the flummery into a
dish, and serve with cream, milk, or custard round; or put a teaspoonful
of cream into half a pint of new milk, a glass of raisin wine, a little
sugar, and a squeeze of lemon.

_Curds and Cream._

Turn to curd three or four pints of milk with runnet; break it, and let
the whey run out, then put it into a bason; and when to be served, but
it on a dish with some cream, or fine milk, either plain or sweetened.

_Another way._

To four quarts of new milk warmed, put from a pint to a quart of
buttermilk strained, according to its sourness; keep the pan covered
until the curd be of a firmness to cut three or four times across with a
saucer, as the whey leaves it: put it into a shape, and fill up until it
is solid enough to take the form. Serve with cream plain, or mixed with
sugar, wine, and lemon.

_London Syllabub._

Put a pint of port or white wine into a bowl, nutmeg grated, and a good
deal of sugar, then milk into it near two quarts of milk, frothed up. If
the wine be not rather sharp, it will require more for this quantity of
milk.

In Devonshire, clouted cream is put on the top, and pounded cinnamon and
sugar.

_Staffordshire Syllabub._

Put a pint of cyder, and a glass of brandy, sugar, and nutmeg into a
bowl, and milk into it; or pour warm milk from a large teapot some
height into it.

_Devonshire Junket._

Put warm milk into a bowl; turn it with runnet; then put some scalded
cream, sugar and cinnamon on the top, without breaking the curd.

_A very fine Somersetshire Syllabub._

In a large China bowl put a pint of port, and a pint of sherry, or other
white wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl full. In twenty minutes cover
it pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg: put pounded
cinnamon and nonpareil comfits.

_Sack Cream._

Boil a pint of raw cream, the yelk of an egg well beaten, two or three
spoonfuls of white wine, sugar, and lemonpeel; stir it over a gentle
fire till it be as thick as rich cream; put it in a dish, and serve it
cold, garnished with rusks or sippets of toasted bread.

_A Froth to set on Cream, Custard, or Trifle, which looks and eats
well._

Sweeten half a pound of the pulp of damsons, or any other sort of
scalded fruit: put to it the whites of four eggs beaten, and beat the
pulp with them, until it will stand as high as you choose; and being put
on the cream, &c. with a spoon, it will take any form. It should be
rough to imitate a rock.

_Floating Island._

Mix three half pints of thin cream with a quarter of a pint of raisin
wine, a little lemonjuice, orange flower water, and sugar; put into a
dish for the middle of the table, and put on the cream a froth like the
above, which may be made of raspberry or currantjelly.

_Another way._

Scald a codlin before it is ripe, or any sharp apple, and pulpit through
a sieve. Beat the whites of two eggs with sugar, and a spoonful of
orange flower water; mix in by degrees the pulp, and beat all together
until you have a large quantity of froth. Serve it on a raspberry cream;
or you may colour the froth with beetroot, raspberry, or currantjelly,
and set it on a white cream, having given it the flavour of lemon,
sugar, and wine as above; or, put the froth on a custard.

_Everlasting, or Solid Syllabubs._

Mix a quart of thick raw cream, one pound of refined sugar, a pint of
white, and half a pint of sweet wine in a deep pan: put to it the grated
peel and the juice of three lemons. Beat, or whisk it one way half an
hour, then put it into glasses.

It will keep good, in a cool place, ten days.

_Yellow Lemon Cream, without Cream._

Pare four lemons very thin into twelve large spoonfuls of water, and
squeeze the juice on seven ounces of finely pounded sugar: beat the
yelks of nine eggs _well_; add the peels and juice beaten together for
some time; then strain it through a flannel into silver or very nice
blocktin saucepan; set it over a gentle fire, and stir it one way till
pretty thick, and scalding hot, but not boiling, or it will curdle. Pour
it into jelly glasses. A few lumps of sugar should be rubbed hard on the
lemons before they are pared, or after, as the peel will be so thin as
not to take all the essence, and the sugar will attract it, and give
better colour and flavour.

_White ditto_

Is made the same as the above; only put the whites of the eggs instead
of the yelks, whisking it extremely well to froth.

_Lemon Cream._

Take a pint of thick cream, and put to it the yelks of two eggs well
beaten, four ounces of fine sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon: boil it
up, then stir it till almost cold. Put the juice of a lemon in a dish or
bowl, and pour the cream upon it, stirring it till quite cold.

_An excellent Cream._

Whip up three quarters of a pint of very rich cream to a strong froth,
with some finely scraped lemonpeel, a squeeze of the juice, half a glass
of sweet wine, and sugar to make it pleasant but not too sweet. Lay it
on a sieve or in a form, and next day put it on a dish, and ornament it
with very light puff paste biscuit, made in tin shapes the length of a
finger, and about two thick, over which sugar may be strewed, or a light
glaze with isinglass. Or you may use macaroons.

_Blancmange or Blamange._

Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of water half an hour;
strain it to a pint and half of cream; sweeten it, and add some
peachwater, or a few bitter almonds; let it boil once up, and put it
into what forms you please. If not to be very stiff, a little less
isinglass will do. Observe to let the blamange settle before you turn it
into the forms, or the blacks will remain at the bottom of them, and be
on the top of the blamange when taken out of the moulds.

_Dutch Flummery._

Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of water very gently
half an hour: add a pint of white wine, the juice of three and the thin
rind of one lemon, and rub a few lumps of sugar on another lemon to
obtain the essence; and with them add as much more sugar as shall make
it sweet enough. Having beaten the yelks of seven eggs, give them and
the above, when mixed, one scald; stir all the time, and pour it into a
bason. Stir it till half cold, then let it settle, and put it into a
melon shape.

_Calf’s Feet Jelly._

Boil two feet in five pints of water till the feet are broken, and the
water half wasted: strain it, and, when cold, take off the fat, and
remove the _jelly_ from the sediment; then put it into a saucepan, with
sugar, raisin wine, lemonjuice to your taste, and some lemonpeel. When
the flavour is rich, put to it the whites of five eggs well beaten, and
their shells are broken. Set the saucepan on the fire, but do not stir
the jelly after it begins to warm. Let it boil twenty minutes after it
rises to a head, then pour it through a flannel jellybag; first dipping
the bag in hot water to prevent waste, and squeezing it quite dry. Run
the jelly through and through until clear; then put it into glasses or
forms.

Observe, that the feet for _all_ jellies should be only scalded to take
off the hair; not bought boiled, which is the usual way; but the
following mode will greatly facilitate the clearing of jelly: when the
mixture has boiled twenty minutes, throw in a teacupful of cold water;
let it boil five minutes longer; then take the saucepan off the fire,
cover it close, and keep it half an hour: after which, it will be so
clear as to need only once running through the bag, and much waste will
be saved.

Observe, feet for all jellies are boiled so long by the people who sell
them, that the nutritious juices are lessened; they should be only
scalded to take off the hair. The liquor will require greater care in
removing the fat; but the jelly will be far stronger, and, of course,
allow more water.

_Another sort._

Boil four quarts of water with three calf’s feet that have been only
scalded, till half wasted: take the jelly from the fat and sediment: mix
with it the juice of a Seville orange, and twelve lemons, the peels of
three, the whites and shells of twelve eggs; brown sugar to taste, near
a pint of raisin wine, one ounce of coriander seed, a quarter of an
ounce of allspice, a bit of cinnamon, and six cloves, all bruised, after
having previously mixed them cold. The jelly should boil fifteen minutes
without stirring; then clear it through a flannel bag. While running
take a little jelly, and mix with a teacupful of water in which a bit of
beetroot has been boiled, and run it through the bag when all the rest
is run out; and this is to garnish the other jelly, being cooled on a
plate; but this is matter of choice.

_Orange jelly._

Grate the rind of two Seville and two China oranges, and two lemons;
squeeze the juice of three of each, and strain, and add the juice to a
quarter of a pound of lump sugar, and a quarter of a pint of water, and
boil till it almost candies. Have ready a quart of isinglassjelly made
with two ounces, put to it the syrup, and boil it once up; strain off
the jelly, and let it stand to settle as above before it be put into the
mould.

_Hartshornjelly._

Simmer eight ounces of hartshorn shavings with two quarts of water to
one; strain it, and boil it with the rinds of four China oranges and two
lemons pared thin; when cool, add the juice of both, half a pound of
sugar, and the whites of six eggs beaten to a froth; let the jelly have
three or four boils without stirring, and strain it through a jellybag.

_Imperial Cream._

Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of a lemon, then stir it till
nearly cold; have ready in a dish or bowl that you are to serve in, the
juice of three lemons strained with as much sugar as will sweeten the
cream; which pours into the dish from a large teapot, holding it high,
and moving it about to mix with the juice. It should be made at least
six hours before it be served.

_A Cream._

Boil half a pint of cream, and half a pint of milk, with two bayleaves,
a bit of lemonpeel, a few almonds beaten to paste, with a drop of water,
a little sugar, orange flower water, and a teaspoonful of flour, having
been rubbed down with a little cold milk, and mixed with the above. When
cold, put a little lemonjuice to the cream, and serve it in cups or
lemonade glasses.

_Cheap, and excellent Custards._

Boil three pints of new milk, with a bit of lemonpeel, a bit of
cinnamon, two or three bayleaves, and sweeten it. Meanwhile, rub down
smooth a large spoonful of rice flour into a cup of cold milk, and mix
with it two yelks of egg well beaten. Take a bason of the boiling milk,
and mix with the cold, and then pour that to the boiling; stirring it
one way, till it begins to thicken, and is just going to boil up; then
pour it into a pan, stir it some time, add a large spoonful of
peachwater, two teaspoonfuls of brandy, or a little ratafia.

_Richer Custard._

Boil a pint of milk with lemonpeel and cinnamon; mix a pint of cream,
and the yelks of five eggs well beaten. When the milk tastes of the
seasoning, sweeten it enough for the whole, pour it into the cream,
stirring well, then give the custard a simmer till of proper thickness.
Do not let it boil. Stir the whole time one way: season as above.

_Almond Cream._

Beat four ounces of sweet almonds, and a few bitter, in a mortar, with a
teaspoonful of water to prevent oiling, both having been blanched. Put
the paste to a quart of cream, and add the juice of three lemons
sweetened; beat it up with a whisk to a froth, which takes off on the
shallow part of a sieve. Fill glasses with some of the liquor and the
froth.

_Brandy Cream._

Boil two dozen of almonds blanched, and pounded bitter almonds in a
little milk. When cold, add it to the yelks of five eggs beaten well in
a little cream; sweeten, and put to it two glasses of best brandy; and
when well mixed, pour to it a quart of thin cream. Set it over the fire,
but do not let it boil. Stir one way till it thickens, then pour into
cups, or low glasses. When cold it will be ready. A ratafia drop may be
put in each, if you choose it. If you wish it to keep, scald the cream
previously.

_Snow Cream._

Put to a quart of cream the whites of three eggs well beaten, four
spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and a bit of lemonpeel:
whip it to a froth, remove the peel, and serve in a dish.

_A pretty Supper dish._

Boil a teacupful of rice, having first washed it in milk, till tender:
strain off the milk; lay the rice in little heaps on a dish; strew over
them some finely powdered sugar and cinnamon, and put warm wine and a
little butter into the dish.

_Wine Roll._

Soak a penny French roll in raisin wine till it will hold no more: put
it in the dish, and pour round it a custard, or cream, sugar, and
lemonjuice. Just before it is served, sprinkle over it some nonpareil
comfits; or stick a few blanched and slit almonds into it.

Sponge biscuit may be used instead of the roll.

_An excellent Trifle._

Lay macaroons and ratafia drops over the bottom of your dish, and pour
in as much raisin wine as they will suck up; which, when they have done,
pour on them cold rich custard, made with more eggs than directed in the
foregoing pages, and some rice flour. It must stand two or three inches
thick. On that put a layer of raspberry jam, and cover the whole with a
very high whip made the day before, of rich cream, the whites of two
well beaten eggs, sugar, lemonpeel, and raisin wine. If made the day
before used, it has quite a different taste, and is solid and far
better.

_Burnt Cream._

Boil a pint of cream with a stick of cinnamon, and some lemonpeel; take
it off the fire, and pour it very slowly into the yelks of four eggs,
stirring till half cold: sweeten, and take out the spice, &c. Pour it
into the dish; when cold, strew white pounded sugar over, and brown it
with a salamander.

_Rice and Sago Milks_

Are made by washing the seeds nicely, and over a slow fire simmering
with milk till sufficiently done. The former sort requires lemon, spice
and sugar; the latter is fine without anything to flavour it.

_Lemon Honeycomb._

Sweeten the juice of a lemon to your taste, and put it in the dish that
you serve it in. Mix the white of an egg that is beaten with a pint of
rich cream, and a little sugar; whisk it, and as the froth rises put it
on the lemonjuice.

Do it the day before it is to be used.

_Coffee Cream. Much admired._

Boil a calf’s foot in water till it wastes to a pint of jelly: clear it
of sediment and fat. Make a teacup of very strong coffee; clear it with
a bit of isinglass to be perfectly bright; pour it to the jelly, and add
a pint of very good cream, and as much fine Lisbon sugar as is pleasant.
Give one boil up, and pour into the dish. It should jelly, but not be
stiff. Observe that your coffee be fresh.

_Orange Fool._

Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three eggs well beaten, a pint
of cream, a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and sweeten to your taste. Set
the whole over a slow fire, and stir it till it becomes as thick as good
melted butter, but it must not be boiled; then pour it into a dish for
eating cold.

_Gooseberry Fool._

Put the fruit into a stonejar and some good Lisbon sugar with them: set
the jar on a stove, or in a saucepan of water over the fire; if the
former, a large spoonful of water should be added to the fruit. When it
is done enough to pulp, press it through a colander: have ready a
sufficient quantity of new milk, and a teacup of raw cream boiled
together; or an egg instead of the latter, and left to be cold; then
sweeten it pretty well with fine Lisbon sugar, and mix the pulp by
degrees, with it.

_Apple Fool._

Stew apples as directed for gooseberries, and then peel and pulp them.
Prepare the milk, &c. and mix as before.

_Raspberry Cream._

Mash the fruit gently, and let them drain; then sprinkle a little sugar
over, and that will produce more juice; then put the juice to some
cream, and sweeten it. After which, if you choose to lower it with some
milk, it will not curdle; which it would, if put to the milk before the
cream; but it is best made of raspberry jelly, instead of jam, when the
fresh fruit cannot be obtained.

_Flummery._

Put three large handfuls of very small white oatmeal to steep a day and
night in cold water; then pour it off clear, and add as much more water,
and let it stand the same time. Strain it through a fine hair sieve, and
boil it till it be as thick as hasty pudding; stirring it well all the
time. When first strained, put to it one large spoonful of white sugar,
and two of orange flower water. Put it into shallow dishes; and serve to
eat with wine, cyder, milk, or cream and sugar. It is very good.

_To butter Oranges._

Grate off a little of the outside rind of four Seville oranges, and cut
a round hole, at the blunt the end opposite the stalk, large enough to
take out the pulp, seeds, and juice; then pick the seeds and skin from
the pulp. Rub the oranges with a little salt, and lay them in water for
a short time. You are to save the bits cut out. Set the fruit on to boil
in fresh water till they are tender, shifting the water to take out the
bitterness. In the mean time, make a thin syrup with fine sugar, and put
the oranges into it, and boil them up, turning them round, that each
part may partake of the syrup, as there need not be enough to cover
them, and let them remain in it hot till they are to be served. About
half an hour before you want them, put some sugar to the pulp, and set
over the fire; mix it well, and let it boil; then add a spoonful of
white wine for every orange. Give it a boil, and then put in a bit of
fresh butter, and stir it over the fire to thicken. Fill the oranges
with it, and serve them with some of the syrup in the dish. Put the bits
on the top.

_Buttered Orange Juice._

Mix the juice of seven Seville oranges with four spoonfuls of rose
water, and add the whole to the yelks of eight and whites of four eggs,
well beaten. Then strain the liquor to half a pound of sugar pounded;
stir it over a gentle fire, and when it begins to thicken, put about the
size of a small walnut of butter: keep it over the fire a few minutes
longer, then pour it into a flat dish, and serve it to eat cold.

If you have no silver saucepan, do it in a Chinabason in a saucepan of
boiling water, the top of which will just receive the bason.

_Stewed Pears._

Pare and halve, or quarter, large pears, according to their size: throw
them into water, as the skin is taken off before they are divided, to
prevent their turning black. Pack them round a blocktin stewpan, and
sprinkle as much sugar over as will make them pretty sweet: add
lemonpeel, a clove or two, and some allspice cracked. Just cover them
with water, and put some of the red liquor which will be directed
hereafter; cover them close, and stew three or four hours. When tender,
take them out, and pour the liquor over them.

_Baked Pears._

These need not be of a fine sort; but some taste better than others, and
often those that are least fit to eat raw. Wipe, but do not pare, and
lay them on tin plates, and bake them in a slow oven. When baked enough
to bear it, flatten them with a silver spoon. When done through, put
them on a dish.

Apples in the same way are excellent, and serve for desserts.

_Dried Apples, or Pears._

Put them in a cool oven six or seven times, and flatten them by degrees,
and gently, when soft enough to bear it. If the oven be too hot they
will waste; and at first it should be very cool.

The Biffin, the Minshul crab, or any tart apples, are the sort for
drying.

_Black Caps._

Halve and core some fine large apples: put them in a shallow pan: strew
white sugar over, and bake them. Boil a glass of wine, the same of
water, and sweeten it for sauce.

_Stewed Golden Pippins._

Scoop out the core; pare them very thin; and as you do it, throw them in
water. For every pound of fruit make half a pound of single refined
sugar into syrup, with a pint of water. When skimmed, put the pippins
in, and stew till clear; then grate lemon over, and serve in the syrup.
Be careful not to let them break.

They are an elegant and good dish for a corner or dessert.

_Red Apples in Jelly._

Pare and core some well shaped apples; pippins, or golden rennets, if
you have them, but others will do: throw them into water as you do them.
Put them in a preserving pan, and with as little water as will only half
cover them, let them coddle; and when the lower side is done, turn them.
Observe that they do not lie too close when first put in. Mix some
pounded cochineal with the water, and boil with the fruit. When
sufficiently done, take them out on the dish they are to be served in,
the stalk downwards. Take the water, and make a rich jelly of it with
loaf sugar, boiling the thin rind and juice of a lemon. When coming to a
jelly, let it grow cold, and put it on and among the apples, and cut the
peel of the lemon in narrow strips, and put across the eye of the apple.

Observe that the colour be fine from the first, or the fruit will not
afterward gain it.

_Apple jelly, to serve to table._

Prepare twenty golden pippins: boil them in a pint and a half of water
from the spring, till quite tender; then strain the liquor through a
colander. To every pint put a pound of fine sugar; add grated orange or
lemon, then boil to a jelly.

_Another._

Prepare apples as before, by boiling and straining: have ready half an
ounce of isinglass, boiled in half a pint of water to a jelly: put this
to the apple water, and apple as strained through a coarse sieve: add
sugar, a little lemonjuice, and peel. Boil all together, and put into a
dish. Take out the peel.

_To prepare Apples for Puffs._

Pare and core apples; cover them with water, but put them as close as
possible, that they may take but little: add a little pounded cinnamon
and a clove; to every dozen apples two spoonfuls of rosewater, and a
little lemonpeel finely shred. Sweeten and cool before you make it into
puffs.

_Pippin Tarts._

Pare thin two Seville or China oranges; boil the peel tender, and shred
it fine. Pare and core twenty apples; put them in a stewpan, and as
little water as possible; when half done, add half a pound of sugar, the
orangepeel and juice: boil till pretty thick. When cold, put it in a
shallow dish, or pattypans lined with paste, to turn out, and be eaten
cold.

_Apple Marmalade._

Scald apples till they will pulp from the core; then take an equal
weight of sugar in large lumps, just dip them in water, and boiling it
till it can be well skimmed, and is a thick syrup; put to it the pulp,
and simmer it on a quick fire a quarter of an hour.

Keep it in small pots, covered with paper dipped in brandy.

_Codlins to scald._

Wrap each in a vine leaf, and pack them close in a nice saucepan; and,
when full, pour as much water as will cover them. Set it over a gentle
fire, and let them simmer slowly till done enough to take the thin skin
off when cold. Place them in a dish, with or without milk, cream, or
custard; if the latter, there should be no ratafia. Dust fine sugar over
the apples.

_Different ways of dressing Cranberries._

For pies and puddings, with a good deal of sugar.

Stewed in a jar, with the same; which way they eat well with bread, and
are very wholesome.

Thus done, pressed and strained, the juice makes a fine drink for people
in fevers.

_Cranberry jelly._

Make a very strong isinglassjelly. When cold, mix it with a double
quantity of cranberry juice pressed as above: sweeten and boil it up;
then strain it into a shape.

The sugar must be good loaf, or the jelly will not be clear.

_Cranberry and Rice jelly._

Boil and press the fruit: strain the juice; and by degrees mix into it
as much ground rice as will, when boiled, thicken to a jelly. Boil it
gently, stirring it, and sweeten to your taste. Put it into a bason or
form, and serve to eat as the before directed jelly, with milk or cream.

_Prune Tart._

Give prunes a scald: take out the stones and break them: put the kernels
into a little cranberry juice, with the prunes and sugar; simmer, and
when cold, make a tart of the sweetmeat.

_To fill preserved Oranges. Corner dish._

For five, take a pound of Naples biscuit, some blanched almonds, the
yelks of four eggs beaten, sugar to your taste, four ounces of butter
warmed: grate the biscuit, and mix with the above, and some orange
flower water. Fill preserved oranges, and bake in a very slow oven. If
you like them frosted, sift sugar over them as soon as filled; otherwise
wipe them. Custard to fill will do as well; if so, you need not bake the
oranges, but put in cold.

_Orange Tart._

Squeeze, pulp, and boil two Seville oranges tender: weigh them, and
double of sugar; beat both together to a paste, and then add the juice
and pulp of the fruit, and the size of a walnut of fresh butter, and
beat all together. Choose a very shallow dish, line it with a light puff
crust, and lay the paste of orange in it. You may ice it. See _Paste_.

_Codlin Tart._

Scald the fruit, as directed under that article; when ready, take off
the thin skin, and lay them whole in a dish, put a _little_ of the water
that the apples were boiled in at bottom, and strew them over with lump
sugar or fine Lisbon; when cold, put a paste round the edges, and over.

You may wet it with white of egg, and strew sugar over, which looks
well: or, cut the lid in quarters, without touching the paste on the
edge of the dish; and either put the broad end downwards, and make the
point stand up, or remove the lid altogether. Pour a good custard over
it; when cold, sift sugar over it.

Or line the bottom of a shallow dish with paste, lay the apples in it,
put sugar over, and lay little twists of paste over in bars.

_Cherry Pie_

Should have a mixture of other fruit; such as currants or raspberries,
or both.

_Rhubarb Tart._

Cut the stalks in lengths of four or five inches, and take off the thin
skin. If you have a hot hearth, lay them in a dish, and put over a thin
syrup of sugar and water: cover with another dish, and let it simmer
very slowly an hour; or do them in a blocktin saucepan. When cold, make
into a tart, as codlin.

_Currant and Raspberry._

Make as a pie; or for a tart; line the dish, put sugar and fruit, lay
bars across, and bake.

_Applepie._

Pare and core the fruit, having wiped the outside; which, with the
cores, boil with a little water till it tastes well. Strain, and put a
little sugar, and a bit of bruised cinnamon, and simmer again. In the
mean time place the apples in a dish, a paste being put round the edge;
when one layer is in, sprinkle half the sugar, and shred lemonpeel, and
squeeze some juice, or a glass of cyder; if the apples have lost their
spirit, put in the rest of the apples, sugar, and the liquor that you
have boiled. Cover with paste. You may add some butter when cut, if
eaten hot: or put quince marmalade, orange paste, or cloves to flavour.

_Puffs of any sort of Fruit_

May be made, but it should be prepared first with sugar. Apples will do,
as before directed; or, as follows, eat best: the crust must be thick,
if used raw. Pare and slice apple; sprinkle sugar, and some chopped
lemon: or stew in a small stonejar. When cold, make it into puffs of
thin crust.

_A Tansey._

Beat seven eggs, yelks and whites separately: add a pint of cream, near
the same of spinach juice, and a little tansey juice gained by pounding
in a stone mortar; a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit, sugar to
taste, a glass of white wine, and some nutmeg. Set all in a saucepan,
just to thicken, over the fire; then put into a dish, lined with paste
to turn out, and bake it.

_Pancakes of Rice._

Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly in a small quantity of water: when
cold, mix it with a pint of cream, eight eggs, a bit of salt, and
nutmeg. Stir in eight ounces of butter just warmed, and add as much
flour as will make the batter thick enough. Fry in as little lard or
dripping as possible.

_Common Pancakes._

Make a light batter of eggs, flour, and milk. Fry in a small pan, in hot
dripping or lard. Salt, or nutmeg and ginger may be added.

Sugar and lemons should be served to eat with them. Or, when eggs are
scarce, make the batter with flour, and small beer, ginger, &c. Or clean
snow, with flour, and a very little milk, will serve as well as eggs.

_Irish Pancakes._

Beat eight yelks and four whites of eggs: strain them into a pint of
cream; put a grated nutmeg and sugar to your taste. Set three ounces of
fresh butter on the fire, stir it, and as it warms, pour it to the
cream, which should be warm when the eggs are put to it; then mix smooth
almost half a pint of flour. Fry the pancakes very thin, the first with
a bit of butter, but not the others. Serve several, one on another.

_Fine Pancakes, fried without Butter, or Lard._

Beat six fresh eggs extremely well; mix, when strained, with a pint of
cream, four ounces of sugar, a glass of wine, half a nutmeg grated, and
as much flour as will make it almost as thick as ordinary pancake
batter, but not quite. Heat the fryingpan tolerably hot, wipe it with a
clean cloth; then pour in the batter, to make thin pancakes.

_Bockings._

Mix three ounces of buckwheat flour, with a teacupful of warm milk, and
a spoonful of yeast; let it rise before the fire about an hour; then mix
four eggs, well beaten, and as much milk as will make the batter the
usual thickness for pancakes, and fry them as they are done.

_A Fraise._

Cut streaked bacon in thin slices an inch long: make a batter of a pint
of milk, three eggs, and a large spoonful of flour; add salt and pepper:
put a piece of fresh dripping in the pan, and, when hot, pour half the
batter, and on it strew the bacon, then the remainder of the batter. Let
it do gently; and be careful, in turning, that the bacon do not come to
the pan.

_Fritters._

Make them of any of the batters directed for pancakes by dropping a
small quantity into the pan. Or make the plainer sort, and put pared
apple, sliced and cored, into the batter, and fry some of it with each
slice. Currants, or sliced lemon as thin as paper, make an agreeable
change.

_Spanish Fritters._

Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengths, as thick as your finger, in
what shape you will. Soak in some cream, nutmeg, sugar, pounded
cinnamon, and an egg. When well soaked, fry of a nice brown, and serve
with butter, wine, and sugar sauce.

_Potatoe Fritters._

Boil two large potatoes, and scrape them fine: beat four yelks and three
whites of eggs, and add to the above, with one large spoonful of cream,
another of sweet wine, a squeeze of lemon, and a little nutmeg. Beat
this batter half an hour at least. It will be extremely light. Put a
good quantity of fine lard in a stewpan, and drop a spoonful of the
batter at a time into it: fry them; and serve as a sauce, a glass of
white wine, the juice of a lemon, one dessert spoonful of peachleaf, or
almond water, and some white sugar warmed together: not to be served in
the dish.

_Cheesecakes._

Strain the whey from the curd of two quarts of milk. When rather dry,
crumble it through a coarse sieve, and mix with six ounces of fresh
butter, one ounce of pounded blanched almonds, a little orange flower
water, half a glass of raisin wine, a grated biscuit, four ounces of
currants, some nutmeg, and cinnamon, in fine powder, and beat all the
above with three eggs, and half a pint of cream, till quite light; then
fill the pattypans three parts full.

_A plainer sort._

Turn three quarts of milk to curd: break it, and drain the whey. When
dry, break it in a pan, with two ounces of butter, till perfectly
smooth: put to it a pint and a half of thin cream or good milk, and add
sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and three ounces of currants.

_Cheesecakes, another way._

Mix the curd of three quarts of milk, a pound of currants, twelve ounces
of Lisbon sugar, a quarter of an ounce each of cinnamon and nutmeg, the
peel of two lemons chopped so fine that it becomes a paste, the yelks of
eight and whites of six eggs, a pint of scalded cream, and a glass of
brandy. Put a light thin puff paste in the pattypans, and three parts
fill them.

_Lemon Cheesecakes._

Mix four ounces of sifted lump sugar, and four ounces of butter, and
gently melt it; then add the yelks of two and the white of one egg, the
rind of three lemons shred fine, and the juice of one and a half; one
Savoy biscuit, some blanched almonds pounded, and three spoonfuls of
brandy. Mix well, and put in paste made as follows: eight ounces of
flour, six ounces of butter; two thirds of which mix with the flour
first; then wet it with six spoonfuls of water, and roll the remainder
in.

_Another Lemon Cheesecake._

Boil two large lemons, or three small ones; and, after squeezing, pound
them well together, in a mortar, with four ounces of loaf sugar, the
yelks of six eggs, and eight ounces of fresh butter. Fill the pattypans
half full.

Orange cheesecakes are done the same way, only you must boil the peel in
two or three waters to take out the bitterness.

_Orange Cheesecakes._

When you have blanched half a pound of almonds, beat them very fine,
with orange flower water, and half a pound of fine sugar beaten and
sifted, a pound of butter that has been melted carefully without oiling,
and which must be nearly cold before you use it; then beat the yelks of
ten and whites of four eggs: pound two candied oranges, and a fresh one
with the bitterness boiled out, in a mortar, till as tender as
marmalade, without any lumps; and beat the whole together, and put into
pattypans.

For the crust, turn to page 139.

_Potatoe Cheesecakes._

Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four ounces of lemonpeel: beat the
latter in a marble mortar, with four ounces of sugar; then add the
potatoes, beaten, and four ounces of butter melted in a little cream.
When well mixed, let it stand to grow cold. Put crust in pattypans, and
rather more than half fill them. Bake in a quick oven half an hour;
sifting some double refined sugar on them when going to the oven. This
quantity will make a dozen.

_Almond Cheesecakes._

Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds, and a few bitter, with a
spoonful of water; then add four ounces of sugar pounded, a spoonful of
cream, and the whites of two eggs well beaten. Mix all as quick as
possible; put into very small pattypans, and bake in a pretty warm oven
under twenty minutes.

FRUITS, TO KEEP.

_Oranges or Lemons, for Puddings, &c._

When you squeeze the fruits, throw the outside in water without the
pulp. Let them remain in the same a fortnight, adding no more. Boil them
therein till tender; strain it from them, and when they are tolerably
dry, throw them into any old jar of candy, you may have remaining from
old sweetmeats; or if you have none, boil a small quantity of syrup of
common loaf sugar and water, and put over them. In a week or ten days
boil them gently in it till they look clear, and that they may be
covered with it in the jar. You may cut each half of the fruit in two,
and they will occupy small space.

_To preserve Gooseberries._

Before they become too large, let them be gathered; and take care not to
cut them in taking off the stalks and buds. Fill wide mouthed bottles;
put the corks loosely in, and set the bottles up to the neck in water in
a boiler. When the fruit looks scalded, take them out; and when
perfectly cold, cork close, and rosin the top. Dig a trench in a part of
the garden least used, sufficiently deep for all the bottles to stand,
and the earth be thrown over, to cover them a foot and a half. When a
frost comes on, a little fresh litter from the stable will prevent the
ground from hardening, so that the fruit cannot be dug up. Or, scald as
above; when cold, fill the bottles with cold water; cork them, and keep
them in a damp, or dry place: they will not be spoiled.

_Another way._

In the size and preparation as above. When done, have boiling water
ready, either in a boiler or large kettle, and into it put as much rock
alum as will, when dissolved, harden the water, which you will taste by
a _little_ roughness: if there be too much it will spoil the fruit. Put
as many gooseberries into a large sieve as will lie at the bottom
without covering one another. Hold the sieve in the water till the fruit
begins to look scalded on the outside: then turn them gently out of the
sieve on a cloth on the dresser: cover them with another cloth, and put
some more to be scalded; and so on till all shall be finished. Observe
not to put one quantity on another, or they will become too soft. The
next day pick out any bad or broken ones, bottle the rest, and fill up
the bottles with the alum water in which they were scalded: which must
be kept in the bottles; for if left in the kettle, or in a glazed pan,
it will spoil. Stop them close.

_Note._ The water must boil all the time the process is carrying on.
Gooseberries, done this way, make as fine tarts as fresh off the trees.

_Another way._

In dry weather pick the gooseberries that are full grown, but not ripe:
top and tail them, and put into open mouthed bottles. Gently cork them
with new velvet corks; put them in the oven when the bread is drawn, and
let them stand till shrunk a quarter part: take them out of the oven,
and immediately beat the corks in tight: cut off the tops, and rosin
down close. Set them in a dry place; and if well secured from air they
will keep the year round.

If gathered in the damp, or the gooseberries’ skins are the least cut in
taking off the stalks and buds, they will mould.

Currants and damsons may be done the same.

_To keep Currants._

The bottles being perfectly clean and dry, let the currants be cut from
the large stalks with the smallest bit of stalk to each, that, the fruit
not being wounded, no moisture may be among them. It is necessary to
gather them when the weather is quite dry; and if the servant can be
depended upon, it is best to cut them under the trees, and let them drop
gently into the bottles.

Stop up the bottles with cork and rosin, and put them into the trench in
the garden with the neck downwards. Sticks should be placed opposite to
where each sort of fruit begins.

_Note._ The directions for gooseberries in case of frost.

Cherries and damsons keep in the same way.

Currants may be scalded, and kept with or without sugar, as directed for
gooseberries.

_To keep Codlins for several months._

Gather codlins at Midsummer of a middling size: put them into an earthen
pan: pour boiling water over them, and cover the pan with
cabbage-leaves. Keep them by the fire till they would peel, but do not
peel them; then pour the water off till both are quite cold. Place the
codlins then in a stonejar with a smallish mouth, and pour on them the
water that scalded them. Cover the pot with bladder wetted, and tied
very close, and then over it coarse paper tied again.

It is best to keep them in small jars, such as will be used at once when
opened.

_To keep Damsons for winter Pies._

Put them in small stonejars, or wide mouthed bottles: set them up to
their necks in a boiler of cold water, and lighting a fire under, scald
them. Next day, when perfectly cold, fill up with spring water. Cover
them.

_Another way._

Boil one third as much sugar as fruit with it, over a slow fire, till
the juice adheres to the fruit, and forms a jam. Keep it in small jars
in a dry place. If too sweet, mix with it some of the fruit that is done
without sugar.

_Another way._

Choose steep pots if you can get them, which are of equal size top and
bottom (they should hold eight or nine pounds): put the fruit in about a
quarter up, then strew in a quarter of the sugar, then another quantity
of fruit, and so till all of both are in. The proportion of sugar is to
be three pounds to nine pounds of fruit. Set the jars in the oven, and
bake the fruit quite through. When cold, put a piece of clean scraped
stick into the middle of the jar, and let the upper part stand above the
top; then pour melted mutton suet over the top, full half an inch thick,
having previously covered the fruit with white paper. Keep the jars in a
cold dry place, and use the suet as a cover, which you will draw up by
the stick; minding to leave a little forked branch to it to prevent its
slipping out.

_Observations on Sweetmeats._

Sweetmeats should be kept in a very dry place. Unless they have a very
small proportion of sugar, a warm one does not hurt; but when not
properly boiled, that is, long enough, but not quick, heat makes them
ferment, and damp causes them to grow mouldy. They should be looked at
two or three times in the first two months, that they may be gently
boiled again, if not likely to keep.

It is necessary to observe, that sugar being boiled more or less,
constitutes the chief art of the confectioner; and those who are not
practised in this knowledge, and only preserve in a plain way for family
use, are not aware that, in two or three minutes, a syrup over the fire
will pass from one gradation to another, called, by the confectioners,
degrees of boiling, of which there are six, and those subdivided. But I
am not versed in the minutia; and only make the observation to guard
against under boiling, which prevents sweetmeats from keeping; and quick
boiling and long, which brings them to candy.

Attention, without much practice, will enable a person to do any of the
following sorts of sweetmeats, &c. and they are as much as is wanted in
a private family; and the higher articles of preserved fruits may be
bought at less expense than made.

A pan should be kept for the purpose of preserving, of double blocktin.
A bow handle opposite the straight one, for safety, will do very well;
and, if put by nicely cleaned, in a dry place, when done with, will last
for several years. Those of copper or brass are improper, as the tinning
wears out by the scraping of the sweetmeat ladle. There is a new sort of
iron, with a strong tinning, which promises to wear long. Sieves and
spoons should be kept likewise for sweet things.

_To clarify Sugar._

Break as much as required in large lumps, and put a pound to half a pint
of water, in a bowl, and it will dissolve better than when broken small.
Set it over the fire, and the well whipt white of an egg: let it boil
up, and, when ready to run over, pour a little cold water in it to give
it a check; but when it rises a second time, take it off the fire, and
set it by in the pan for a quarter of an hour: during which time the
foulness will sink to the bottom, and leave a black scum on the top;
which take off gently with a skimmer, and pour the syrup into a vessel
very quickly from the sediment.

_To dry Cherries, with Sugar._

Stone six pounds of Kentish; put them into a preservingpan, with two
pounds of loaf sugar pounded and strewed among them: simmer till they
begin to shrivel, then strain them from the juice; lay them on a hot
hearth, or in an oven, when either are cool enough to dry without baking
them.

The same syrup will do another six pounds of fruit.

_To dry Cherries without Sugar._

Stone and set them over the fire in the preservingpan: let them simmer
in their own liquor, and shake them in the pan. Put them by in China
common dishes. Next day give them another scald, and put them, when
cold, on sieves to dry, in an oven of at tempered heat as above. Twice
heating, an hour each time, will do them.

Put them in a box, with a paper between each layer.

_Excellent Sweetmeats for Tarts, when Fruit is plentiful._

Divide two pounds of apricots when just ripe, and take out and break the
stones. Put the kernels without their skins to the fruit: add to it
three pounds of green gage plums, and two pounds and a half of lump
sugar. Simmer until the fruit be a clear jam. The sugar should be broken
in large pieces, and just dipped in water, and added to the fruit over a
slow fire. Observe that it does not boil, and skim it well. If the sugar
be clarified it will make the jam better.

Put it into small pots; in which, all sweetmeats keep best.

_Currantjelly, red or black._

Strip the fruit, and in a stonejar stew them in a saucepan of water, or
by boiling it on the hot hearth; strain off the liquor, and to every
pint weigh a pound of loaf sugar. Put the latter in large lumps into it,
in a stone or China vessel, till nearly dissolved; then put it in a
preservingpan. Simmer and skim as necessary. When it will jelly on
plate, put it in small jars or glasses.

_Raspberry Jam._

Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar. Put the former into a
preservingpan; boil and break it; stir constantly, and let it boil very
quickly. When most of the juice is wasted, add the sugar, and simmer to
a fine jam.

This way the jam is greatly superior in colour and flavour to that which
is made by putting the sugar in at first.

_Raspberry Jam another way._

Put the fruit in a jar into a kettle of water, or on a hot hearth, till
the juice will run from it; then take away a quarter of a pint from
every pound of fruit. Boil and bruise it half an hour, then put in the
weight of the fruit in sugar, and, adding the same quantity of
currantjuice, boil it to a strong jelly.

The raspberry juice will serve to put into brandy; or may be boiled,
with its weight in sugar, for making the jelly for raspberry ice or
cream.

_Raspberry jelly, for Ices or Creams._

Do the fruit as directed for currantjelly, and use in the same
proportion of sugar and liquor.

_Raspberry Cakes._

Pick out any bad raspberries that are among the fruit: weigh and boil
what quantity you please; and when mashed, and the liquor is wasted, put
to it sugar the weight of the fruit you first put into the pan. Mix it
well _off_ the fire, until perfectly dissolved; then put it on China
plates, and dry it in the sun. As soon as the top part dries, cut with
the cover of a cannister into small cakes, turn them on fresh plates,
and, when dry, put them in boxes with layers of paper.

_Apricot Cheese._

Weigh an equal quantity of pared fruit and sugar: wet the latter a very
little, and let it boil quickly, or the colour will be spoiled: blanch
the kernels, and add to it. Twenty or thirty minutes will boil it. Put
it in small pots or cups half filled.

_Apricots or Peaches in Brandy._

Wipe, weigh, and pick the fruit, and have ready a quarter of the weight
of fine sugar in fine powder. Put the fruit into an icepot that shuts
very close: throw the sugar over it, and then cover the fruit with
brandy. Between the top and cover of the pot, put a piece of double cap
paper. Set the pot into a saucepan of water till the brandy be as hot as
you can possibly bear to put your finger in, but must not boil. Put the
fruit into a jar, and pour the brandy on it. When cold, put a bladder
over, and tie it down tight.

_Cherries in Brandy._

Weigh the finest morellas, having cut off half the stalk: prick them
with a new needle, and drop them into a jar or widemouthed bottle. Pound
three quarters the weight of sugar or white candy: strew over, fill up
with brandy, and tie a bladder over.

_To prepare Oranges to put into Orange Puddings._

Put twelve Seville oranges in water, and change them three days. Boil
them in the least water till tender: scoop out the pulp, and pick out
the kernels; then, in a marble mortar, beat the oranges, then the pulp
separately; and, after, both together. To every pound put a pound and a
half of sugar, pounded and sifted, and beat to a paste. Keep it in small
gallipots, and cover with white paper dipped in brandy.

_To dry Apricots in half._

Pare thin and halve four pounds of apricots, weighing them after: put
them in a dish, and strew among them three pounds of sugar in the finest
powder. When it melts, set the fruit over a stove to do very gently. As
each piece becomes tender, take it out and put it into a China bowl.
When all are done, and the boiling heat a little abated, pour the syrup
over them. In a day or two remove the syrup, leaving only a little in
each half. In a day or two more turn them; and so continue daily till
quite dry, in the sun or a warm place. Keep in boxes with layers of
paper.

_To preserve Apricots in Jelly._

Pare the fruit _very_ thin, and stone it. Weigh an equal quantity of
sugar in fine powder and strew over it. Next day boil very gently till
they are clear: move them into a bowl, and pour the liquor over. The
following day pour the liquor to a quart of codlin liquor, made by
boiling and straining, and a pound of fine sugar: let it boil quickly
till it will jelly: put the fruit into it, and give one boil; and having
skimmed well, put into small pots.

_Applejelly for the above, or any sort of Sweetmeats._

Let apples be pared, quartered, and cored: put them into a stewpan with
as much water as will cover them: boil as fast as possible. When the
fruit is all in a mash, add a quart of water: boil half an hour more,
and run through a jellybag.

If in summer, codlins are best: in September, golden rennets or winter
pippins.

_To preserve green Apricots._

Lay vine or apricot leaves at the bottom of your pan, then fruit, and so
alternately till full, the upper layer being thick with leaves; then
fill with spring water, and cover down, that no steam may come out. Set
the pan at a distance from the fire, that in four or five hours they may
be only soft, but not cracked. Make a thin syrup of some of the water,
and drain the fruit. When both are cold, put the fruit into the pan and
the syrup to it; put the pan at a proper distance on the fire till the
apricots green, but on no account boil or crack: remove them very
carefully into a pan with the syrup for two or three days, then pour off
as much of it as will be necessary, and boil with more sugar to make a
rich syrup, and put a little sliced ginger into it. When cold, and the
thin syrup has all been drained from the fruit, pour the thick over it.

_To preserve Strawberries whole._

Get the finest scarlets before they are too ripe, with their stalks kept
on; lay them separately on a China dish; beat and sift twice their
weight of doubly refined sugar over them; then bruise a few ripe
strawberries, with their weight of doubly refined sugar, in a China
bason, cover it close, and set it in a saucepan of boiling water which
will just hold it till the juice comes out and becomes thick; strain it
through muslin into a sweetmeat pan, boil it up and skim it. When cold,
put in the strawberries, set them over a stove till milk warm, then take
the pan off till they are cold, set them on again, and let them become
rather hotter, and so for several times till they become clear, but the
hottest degree must not come to a boil. When cold, put them into
glasses, and pour the syrup over.

_Another way._

Take equal weight of the fruit and doubly refined sugar, lay the former
in a large dish, and sprinkle half the sugar in fine powder over; give a
gentle shake to the dish, that the sugar may touch the under side of the
fruit. Next day make a thin syrup with the remainder of the sugar, and
instead of water, allow one pint of red currant juice to every three
pounds of strawberries; in this simmer them until sufficiently jellied.
Choose the largest scarlets, or others, when not dead ripe.

_Cherry Jam._

To twelve pounds of Kentish or Duke cherries, when ripe, weigh one pound
of sugar; break the stones of part and blanch them; then put them to the
fruits and sugar, and boil all gently till the jam come clear from the
pan. Pour it into China plates to come up dry to table. Keep in boxes
with white paper between.

_Orange Marmalade._

Rasp the oranges, cut out the pulp, then boil the rinds very tender, and
beat fine in a marble mortar. Boil three pounds of loaf sugar in a pint
of water, skim it, and add a pound of the rind; boil fast till the syrup
is very thick, but stir it carefully; then put a pint of the pulp and
juice, the seeds having been removed, and a pint of apple liquor; boil
all gently until well jellied, which it will be in about half an hour.
Put it into small pots.

Lemon marmalade do in the same way.

_Quince Marmalade._

Pare and quarter quinces, weigh an equal quantity of sugar; to four
pounds of the latter put a quart of water, boil, and skim, and keep
ready against four pounds of quinces are tolerably tender by the
following mode: lay them into a stonejar, with a teacup of water at the
bottom, and pack them with a little sugar strewed between; cover the jar
close, and set it on a stove or cool oven, and let them soften till the
colour become red, then pour the fruit, syrup, and a quart of quince
juice into a preserving pan, and boil all together till the marmalade be
completed, breaking the lumps of fruit with the preserving ladle.

This fruit is so hard, that if it be not done as above, it requires a
great deal of time.

N. B. Stewing quinces in a jar, and then squeezing them through a
cheesecloth, is the best method of obtaining the juice to add as above.

_To dry Cherries; the best way._

To every five pounds of cherries stoned, weigh one of sugar doubly
refined. Put the fruit into the preservingpan with _very_ little water,
both made scalding hot; take the fruit immediately out and dry them, put
them into the pan again, strewing the sugar between each layer of
cherries; let it stand to melt, then set the pan on the fire, and make
it scalding hot as before; take it off, and repeat this thrice with the
sugar. Drain them from the syrup, and lay them singly to dry on dishes,
in the sun or on a stove. When dry, put them into a sieve, dip it into a
pan of cold water, and draw it instantly out again, and pour them on a
fine soft cloth; dry them, and set them once more in the hot sun, or on
a stove. Keep them in a box, with layers of white paper, in a dry place.

This way is the best to give plumpness to the fruit, as well as colour
and flavour.

_Observe._ When any sweetmeats are directed to be dried in the sun or in
a stove, it will be best in private families, where there is not a
regular stove for the purpose, to place them in the sun on flag stones,
which reflect the heat, and place a garden glass over them to keep
insects off: or if put in an oven, to take care not to let it be too
warm, and watch that they do properly and slowly.

_Gooseberry Jam, for Tarts._

Put twelve pounds of the red hairy gooseberries, when ripe and gathered
in dry weather, into a preservingpan with a pint of currantjuice, drawn
as for jelly; let them boil pretty quick, and beat them with the spoon;
when they begin to break, put to them six pounds of pure white Lisbon
sugar, and simmer to a jam. It requires long boiling, or will not keep;
but is an excellent and reasonable thing for tarts or puffs. Look at it
in two or three days, and if the syrup and fruit separate, the whole
must be boiled longer. Be careful it does not burn to the bottom.

_Another._

Gather your gooseberries (the clear white or green sort) when ripe; top
and tail, and weigh them: a pound to three quarters of a pound of fine
sugar, and half a pint of water; boil and skim the sugar and water, then
put the fruit and boil gently till clear; then break and put into small
pots.

_White Gooseberry Jam._

Gather the finest white gooseberries, or green if you choose, when just
ripe; top and tail them. To each pound put three quarters of a pound of
fine sugar, and half a pint of water. Boil and clarify the sugar in the
water as directed under that article, then add the fruit; simmer gently
till clear, then break it, and in a few minutes put the jam into small
pots.

_Barberries for Tartlets._

Pick barberries, that have no stones, from the stalks, and to every
pound weigh three quarters of a pound of lump sugar. Put the fruit into
a stonejar, and either set it on a hot hearth or in a saucepan of water,
and let them simmer very slowly till soft; put them and the sugar into a
preservingpan, and boil them gently fifteen minutes.

Use no metal but silver.

_Barberry Drops._

The black tops must be cut off, then roast the fruit before the fire,
till soft enough to pulp with a silver spoon through a sieve into a
China bason; then set the bason on a saucepan of water, the top of which
will just fit it, or on a hot hearth, and stir it till it grows thick.
When cold, put to every pint one pound and a half of sugar, the finest
doubly refined, pounded and sifted through a lawn sieve, which must be
covered with fine linen, to prevent its wasting while sifting. Beat the
sugar and juice together three hours and a half if a large quantity, but
two and a half for less: then drop it on sheets of white thick paper,
the size of the drops sold in the shops.

Some fruit is not so sour, and then less sugar is necessary. To know if
there be enough, mix till well incorporated, and then drop: if it runs,
there is not enough sugar, and if it is too much it will be rough. A dry
room will suffice to dry them. No metal must touch the juice but the
point of a knife, just to take the drop off the end of the wooden spoon,
and then as little as possible.

_Ginger Drops, a good Stomachic._

Beat two ounces of fresh candied orange in a mortar, with a little
sugar, to a paste; then mix one ounce of powder of white ginger with one
pound of loaf sugar. Wet the sugar with a little water, and boil
altogether to candy, and drop it on paper the size of mint drops.

_Peppermint Drops._

Pound and sift four ounces of doubly refined sugar, beat it with the
whites of two eggs till perfectly smooth; then add sixty drops of oil of
peppermint, beat it well, and drop on white paper, and dry at a distance
from the fire.

_Lemon Drops._

Grate three large lemons, with a large piece of doubly refined sugar;
then scrape the sugar into a plate, add half a teaspoonful of flour, mix
well, and beat it into a light paste with the white of an egg. Drop it
upon white paper, and put them into a moderate oven on a tinplate.

_A beautiful Red, to stain Jellies, Ices or Cakes._

Boil fifteen grains of cochineal in the finest powder, with a drachm and
a half of cream of tartar, in half a pint of water, very slowly, half an
hour. Add in boiling a bit of alum the size of a pea. Or use beetroot
sliced, and some liquor poured over.

For white, use almonds, finely powdered, with a little drop of water; or
use cream.

For yellow, yelks of eggs, or a bit of saffron steeped in the liquor and
squeezed.

For green, pound spinach leaves or beet leaves, express the juice, and
boil in a teacupful in a saucepan of water, to take off the rawness.

_Damson Cheese._

Bake or boil the fruit in a stonejar, in a saucepan of water, or on a
hot hearth. Pour off some of the juice, and to every two pounds of
fruit, weigh half a pound of sugar. Set the fruit over a fire in the
pan, let it boil quickly till it begins to look dry; take out the stones
and add the sugar, stir it well in, and simmer two hours slowly, then
boil it quickly half an hour, till the sides of the pan candy; pour the
jam then into potting pans or dishes, about an inch thick, so that it
may cut firm. If the skins be disliked, then the juice is not to be
taken out; but after the first process, the fruit is to be pulped
through a very coarse sieve with the juice, and managed as above. The
stones are to be cracked, or some of them, and the kernels boiled in the
jam. All the juice may be left in and boiled to evaporate, but do not
add the sugar until it has done so. The above looks well in shapes.

_Biscuit of Fruit._

To the pulp of any scalded fruit, put equal weight of sugar sifted, beat
it for two hours, then put it into little white paper forms: dry in a
cool oven, turn the next day, and in two or three days box them.

_Magnum Bonum Plums. Excellent as a Sweetmeat, or in Tarts, though very
bad to eat raw._

Prick them with a needle, to prevent bursting, simmer them very gently
in a thin syrup; put them in a China bowl, and when cold pour it over.
Let them lie three days; then make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to
five of fruit, with no more water than hangs to large lumps of the sugar
dipped quickly, and instantly brought out. Boil the plums in this fresh
syrup, after draining the first from them. Do them very gently till they
are clear, and the syrup adheres to them. Put them one by one into small
pots, and pour the liquor over. Those you may like to dry, keep a little
of the syrup for, longer in the pan, and boil it quickly, then give the
fruit one more warm: drain, and put them to dry on plates, in a cool
oven. These plums are apt to ferment, if not boiled in two syrups; the
former will sweeten pies, but will have too much acid to keep. You may
reserve part of it, and add a little sugar, to do those that are to dry,
for they will not require to be so sweet, as if kept wet, and will eat
very nicely if only boiled as much as those. Do not break them. One
parcel may be done after another, and save much sugar.

_To preserve Grapes in Brandy._

Put some close bunches, when ripe, but not over ready, into a jar: strew
over them half their weight in white sugarcandy pounded: prick each
grape once with a needle; fill up with brandy, and tie close. They look
beautifully in a dessert.

_Gooseberry Hops._

Of the largest green walnut kind, take and cut the bud end in four
quarters, leaving the stalk end whole: pick out the seeds, and with a
strong needle and thread, fasten five or six together, by running the
thread through the bottoms, till they are of the size of a hop. Lay
vineleaves at the bottom of a tin preservingpan: cover them with the
hops, then a layer of leaves, and so on; lay a good many on the top,
then fill the pan with water. Stop it so close down that no steam can
get out: set it by a slow fire till scalding hot; then take it off till
cold, and do so till on opening while cold, the gooseberries are of a
good green. Then drain them on sieves, and make a thin syrup of a pound
of sugar, to a pint of water, boil, and skim it well; when half cold,
put in the fruit, next day give it one boil; do this thrice. If the hops
are to be dried, which way they eat best, and look well, they may be set
to dry in a week: but if to be kept wet, make a syrup in the above
proportions, adding a slice of ginger in boiling; when skimmed and
clear, give the gooseberries one boil, and when cold, pour it over them.
If the first syrup be found too sour, a little sugar may be added and
boiled in it, before the hops that are for drying, have their last boil.

The extra syrup will serve for pies, or go towards other sweetmeats.

_A Carmel Cover for Sweetmeats._

Dissolve eight ounces of double refined sugar in three or four spoonfuls
of water, and three or four drops of lemonjuice; then put it into a
copper untinned skellet; when it boils to be thick, dip the handle of a
spoon in it, and put that into a pintbason of water, squeeze the sugar
from the spoon into it, and so on till you have all the sugar. Take a
bit out of the water, and if it snaps, and is brittle when cold, it is
done enough; but only let it be three parts cold, when pour the water
from the sugar, and having a copper form oiled well, run the sugar on
it, in the manner of a maze, and when cold you may put it on the dish it
is to cover; but if on trial the sugar is not brittle, pour off the
water, and return it into the skellet and boil it again. It should look
thick like treacle, but of a bright light gold colour.

It is a most elegant cover.

_Transparent Marmalade._

Cut the palest Seville oranges in quarters, take the pulp out, and put
it in a bason, pick out the seeds and skins. Let the outsides soak in
water with a little salt all night, then boil them in a good quantity of
spring water till tender; drain and cut them in very thin slices, and
put them to the pulp; and to every pound, a pound and a half of double
refined sugar beaten fine; boil them together twenty minutes, but be
careful not to break the slices. If not quite clear, simmer five or six
minutes longer. It must be stirred all the time very gently.

When cold, put it into glasses.

_To preserve Oranges or Lemons in Jelly._

Cut a hole in the stalk part, the size of a shilling, and with a blunt
small knife scrape out the pulp quite clear without cutting the rind.
Tie each separately in muslin, and lay them in spring water two days,
changing twice a day; in the last boil them tender on a slow fire.
Observe that there is enough at first to allow for wasting, as they must
be covered to the last. To every pound of orange, weigh two pounds of
double refined sugar, and one pint of water; boil the two latter
together with the juice of the orange to a syrup, and clarify it, skim
well, and let it stand to be cold; then boil the fruit in the syrup half
an hour; if not clear, do this daily till they are done.

Pare and core some green pippins, and boil in water till it tastes
strong of them; do not break them, only gently press them with the back
of a spoon. Strain the water through a jellybag till quite clear; then
to every pint put a pound of double refined sugar, the peel and juice of
a lemon, and boil to a strong syrup. Drain off the syrup from the fruit,
and turning the whole upwards in the jar, pour the applejelly over it.
The bits cut out must go through the same process with the fruit. Cover
with brandy paper.

_Orange Chips._

Cut oranges in halves, squeeze the juice through a sieve; soak the peel
in water, next day boil in the same till tender, drain them, and slice
the peels, put them to the juice, weigh as much sugar, and put all
together into a broad earthen dish, and put over the fire at a moderate
distance, often stirring till the chips candy; then set them in a cool
room to dry. They will not be so under three weeks.

_Orange Cakes._

Cut Seville oranges in pieces, take out the seeds and skins, save the
juice, and add to the meat of the fruit, after having beaten it quite
fine in a mortar, in the proportion of a pound to a pound and a half of
loaf sugar finely beaten first. When the paste is finely mixed, make it
into small cakes, and dry them on China plates in a hot room, and turn
them daily. Do not let them be too dry.

They are excellent for gouty stomachs, or for travellers.

The peels of China oranges, soaked a night, then drained and boiled up
in a syrup till enough to be tender, answer for common puddings
extremely well, and are of no value; whereas Seville are usually dear,
and sometimes cannot be had.

_To preserve Morella Cherries._

Gather them when full ripe, and perfectly dry, take off the stalks, and
prick them with a new needle to prevent bursting. Weigh to every pound,
one and a half of sugar, beat part, and strew over them; let them lie
all night; dissolve the rest in half a pint of currantjuice, set it over
the fire, and put in the cherries, and sugar that hangs about them, give
them a scald, then put them in a China bowl; next day give them another
scald, then take them carefully out, boil the syrup till it is thick,
and pour it on them; look at it in a day or two, and if too thin, boil
it more, but gently.

_To keep Lemonjuice._

Buy the fruit when cheap, keep it in a cool place until the colour
becomes very yellow: cut the peel off some, and roll them under your
hand to make them part with the juice more readily; others you may leave
unpared for grating, when the pulp shall be taken out and dried. Squeeze
the juice into a China bason, then strain it through some linen which
will not permit the least pulp to pass. Have ready some half and quarter
ounce phials perfectly dry: fill them with the juice so near to the top
as only to admit half a teaspoonful of sweet oil into each; or a little
more, if for larger bottles. Cork the bottles, and set them upright in a
cool place.

When you want lemonjuice, open such a sized bottle as you shall use in
two or three days, wind some clean cotton round a skewer, and dipping it
in, the oil will be attracted; and when all shall be removed, the juice
will be as fine as when first bottled.

The peels hang up till dry, then keep them from the dust.

_Ice Waters._

Rub some fine sugar on lemon, or orange, to give the colour and flavour;
then squeeze the juice of either on its respective peel: add water and
sugar, to make a fine sherbet, and strain it before it be put into the
icepot. If orange, the greater proportion should be of the China juice,
and only a little of Seville, and a small bit of the peel grated by the
sugar.

_Currant, or Raspberry water Ice._

The juice of these, or any other sort of fruit, being gained by
squeezing, sweetened and mixed with water, will be ready for icing.

_Ice Creams._

Mix the juice of the fruits with as much sugar as will be wanted, before
you add cream, which should be of a middling richness. Under the article
of FRUITS is given a mode of preparing juice for ice.

_Brown Bread Ice._

Grate as fine as possible stale brown bread, soak a small proportion in
cream two or three hours, sweeten and ice it.

_To make the Ice._

Get a few pounds of ice, break it almost to powder, throw a large
handful and a half of salt among it. You must prepare it in a part of
the house where as little of the warm air comes as you can possibly
contrive. The ice and salt being in a bucket, put your cream into an ice
pot, and cover it; immerse it in the ice, and draw that round the pot,
so as to touch every possible part. In a few minutes put a spatula or
spoon in, and stir it well, removing the parts that ice round the edges
to the centre. If the icecream or water be in a form, shut the bottom
close, and move the whole in the ice, as you cannot use a spoon to that
without danger of waste.

_Note._ When any fluid tends towards cold, the moving it quickly
accelerates the cold; and likewise, when any fluid is tending to heat,
stirring it will facilitate its boiling.

_Icing for Tarts._

Beat the yelk of an egg and some melted butter well together, wash the
tarts with a feather, and sift sugar over as you put them in the oven.
Or beat white of egg: wash the paste, and sift white sugar.

_Icing for Cakes._

For a large one, beat and sift eight ounces of fine sugar, put into a
mortar with four spoonfuls of rose water, and the whites of two eggs
beaten and strained, whisk it well, and when the cake is almost cold,
dip a feather in the icing, and cover the cake well; set it in the oven
to harden, but do not let it stay to discolour. Put the cake in a dry
place.

CAKES.

_Observations on making and baking Cakes._

Currants should be very nicely washed, dried in a cloth, and then set
before the fire. If damp they will make cakes or puddings heavy. Before
they are added, a dust of dry flour should be thrown among them, and a
shake given to them, which causes the thing that they are put to, to be
lighter.

Eggs should be very long beaten, whites and yelks apart, and always
strained.

Sugar should be rubbed to a powder on a clean board, and sifted through
a very fine hair or lawn sieve.

Lemonpeel should be pared very thin, and with a little sugar beaten in a
marble mortar to a paste, and then mixed with a little wine, or cream,
so as to divide easily among the other ingredients.

After all the articles are put into the pan, they should be thoroughly
and long beaten, as the lightness of the cake depends much on their
being well incorporated.

Whether black or white plumcakes, they require less butter and eggs for
having yeast, and eat equally light and rich. If the leaven be only of
flour, milk and water, and yeast, it becomes more tough, and is less
easily divided, and if the butter be first put with those ingredients,
and the dough afterwards set to rise by the fire.

The heat of the oven is of great importance for cakes, especially those
that are large. If not pretty quick, the batter will not rise. Should
you fear its catching by being two quick, put some paper over the cake
to prevent its being burnt. If not long enough lighted to have a body of
heat, or it is become slack, the cake will be heavy. To know when it is
soaked, take a broad bladed knife that is very bright, and plunge into
the very centre, draw it instantly out, and if the least stickiness
adheres, put the cake immediately in, and shut up the oven.

If the heat was sufficient to raise, but not to soak, I have with great
success had fresh fuel quickly put in, and kept the cakes hot till the
oven was fit to finish the soaking, and they turned out extremely well.
But those who are employed, ought to be particularly careful that no
mistakes occur from negligence when large cakes are to be baked.

_Plumcake._

Mix thoroughly a quarter of a peck of fine flour, well dried with a
pound of dry and sifted loaf sugar, three pounds of currants washed, and
very dry, half a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, a quarter of an
ounce of mace and cloves, twenty Jamaica peppers, a grated nutmeg, the
peel of a lemon cut as fine as possible, and half a pound of almonds
blanched, and beaten with orange flour water. Melt two pounds of butter
in a pint and a quarter of cream, but not hot, put to it a pint of sweet
wine, a glass of brandy, the whites and yelks of twelve eggs beaten
apart, and half a pint of good yeast. Strain this liquid by degrees into
the dry ingredients, beating them together a full hour, then butter the
hoop, or pan, and bake it. As you put the batter into the hoop, or pan,
throw in plenty of citron, lemon, and orange candy.

If you ice the cake, take half a pound of double refined sugar sifted,
and put a little with the white of an egg, beat it well, and by degrees
pour in the remainder. It must be whisked near an hour, with the
addition of a little orange flour water, but mind not to put much. When
the cake is done, pour the icing over, and return it to the oven for
fifteen minutes; but if the oven be warm, keep it near the mouth, and
the door open; lest the colour be spoiled.

_Another Plumcake._

Flour dried, and currants washed and picked, four pounds, sugar pounded
and sifted one pound and a half, six orange, lemon, and citron peels,
cut in slices; mix these.

Beat ten eggs, yelks and whites separately; then melt a pound and a half
of butter in a pint of cream; when lukewarm put it to half a pint of ale
yeast, near half a pint of sweet wine, and the eggs; then strain the
liquid to the dry ingredients, beat them well, and add of cloves, mace,
cinnamon and nutmeg, half an ounce each. Butter the pan, and put it into
a quick oven. Three hours will bake it.

_A very fine Cake._

Wash two pounds and a half of fresh butter in water first, and then in
rosewater; beat the butter to a cream: beat twenty eggs, yelk and whites
separately, half an hour each. Have ready two pounds and a half of the
finest flour, well dried, and kept hot, likewise a pound and a half of
sugar pounded and sifted, one ounce of spice in finest powder, three
pounds of currants nicely cleaned and dry, half a pound of almonds
blanched, and three quarters of a pound of sweetmeats cut not too thin.
Let all be kept by the fire, mix all the dry ingredients; pour the eggs
strained to the butter; mix half a pint of sweet wine with a large glass
of brandy, pour it to the butter and eggs, mix well, then have all the
dry things put in by degrees; beat them very thoroughly; you can hardly
do it too much. Having half a pound of stoned jar raisins chopped as
fine as possible, mix them carefully, so that there shall be no lumps.
Beat the ingredients together a full hour at least. Have a hoop well
buttered, or if you have none, a tin, or copper cakepan; take a white
paper, doubled and buttered, and put in the pan round the edge, if the
cake batter fill it more than three parts, for space should be allowed
for rising. Bake in a quick oven. It will require three hours.

_An excellent and less expensive Cake._

Rub two pounds of dry fine flour, with one of butter, washed in plain
and rosewater, mix it with three spoonfuls of yeast in a little warm
milk and water. Set it to rise an hour and a half before the fire, then
beat into it two pounds of currants, one pound of sugar sifted, four
ounces of almonds, six ounces of stoned raisins, chopped fine, half a
nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, and a few cloves, the peel of a lemon
chopped as fine as possible, a glass of wine, ditto of brandy, twelve
yelks and whites of eggs beat separately, and long; orange, citron, and
lemon. Beat exceedingly well, and butter the pan. A quick oven.

_A very good Common Cake._

Rub eight ounces of butter into two pounds of dried flour, mix it with
three spoonfuls of yeast that is not bitter, to a paste. Let it rise an
hour and a half; then mix in the yelks and whites of six eggs beaten
apart; one pound of sugar, some milk to make it a proper thickness,
(about a pint will be sufficient,) a glass of sweet wine, the rind of a
lemon, and a teaspoonful of ginger. Add either a pound and a half of
currants, or some carraways, and beat well.

_A cheap Seed Cake._

Mix a quarter of a peck of flour with half a pound of sugar, a quarter
of an ounce of allspice, and a little ginger; melt three quarters of a
pound of butter with half a pint of milk; when just warm, put to it a
quarter of a pint of yeast, and work up to a good dough. Let it stand
before the fire a few minutes before it goes to the oven; add seeds, or
currants, and bake an hour and a half.

_Another._

Mix a pound and a half of flour, and a pound of common lump sugar, eight
eggs beaten separately, an ounce of seeds, two spoonfuls of yeast, and
the same of milk and water.

_Note._ Milk alone causes cake and bread soon to dry.

_Common Bread Cake._

Take the quantity of a quartern loaf from the dough when making white
bread, and knead well into it two ounces of butter, two of Lisbon sugar,
and eight of currants. Warm the butter in a teacupful of good milk.

By the addition of an ounce of butter, or sugar, or an egg or two, you
may make the cake better. A teacupful of raw cream improves it much. It
is best to bake it in a pan, rather than as a loaf, the outside being
less hard.

_A good Pound Cake._

Beat a pound of butter to a cream, and mix with it the whites and yelks
of eight eggs beaten apart. Have ready warm by the fire, a pound of
flour, and the same of sifted sugar, mix them and a few cloves, a little
nutmeg and cinnamon in fine powder together; then by degrees work the
dry ingredients into the butter and eggs. When well beaten, add a glass
of wine, and some carraways. It must be beaten a full hour. Butter a
pan, and bake it a full hour in a quick oven.

The above proportions, leaving out four ounces of the butter, and the
same of sugar, make a less luscious cake.

_Queen Cakes._

Mix a pound of dried flour, the same of sifted sugar, and of washed
clean currants. Wash a pound of butter in rosewater, beat it well, then
mix with it eight eggs, yelks and whites beaten separately, and put in
the dry ingredients by degrees; beat the whole an hour; butter little
tins, teacups, or saucers, and bake the batter in, filling only half.
Sift a little fine sugar over just as you put into the oven.

_Queen Cakes, another way._

Beat eight ounces of butter, and mix with two well beaten eggs,
strained; mix eight ounces of dried flour, and the same of lump sugar,
and the grated rind of a lemon, then add the whole together, and beat
full half an hour with a silver spoon. Butter small pattypans, half
fill, and bake twenty minutes in a quick oven.

_A Common Cake._

Mix three quarters of a pound of flour with half a pound of butter, four
ounces of sugar, four eggs, half an ounce of carraways, and a glass of
raisin wine. Beat it well, and bake it in a quick oven. Fine Lisbon
sugar will do.

_Shrewsbury Cakes._

Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon, and a nutmeg grated,
into three pounds of flour, the finest sort; add a little rosewater to
three eggs, well beaten, and mix these with the flour, &c. then pour
into it as much butter melted as will make it a good thickness to roll
out.

Mould it well, and roll thin, and cut it into such shapes as you like.

_Little white Cakes._

Dry half a pound of flour, rub into it a very little pounded sugar, one
ounce of butter, one egg, a few carraways, and as much milk and water as
to make a paste; roll it thin, and cut it with the top of a cannister or
glass. Bake fifteen minutes on tin plates.

_Tea Cakes._

Rub fine four ounces of butter into eight ounces of flour; mix eight
ounces of currants, and six of fine Lisbon sugar, two yelks and one
white of eggs, and a spoonful of brandy. Roll the paste the thickness of
an Oliver biscuit, and cut with a wineglass. You may beat the other
white, and wash over them; and either dust sugar, or not, as you like.

_Little short Cakes._

Rub into a pound of dried flour four ounces of butter, four ounces of
white powder sugar, one egg, and a spoonful or two of thin cream to make
into a paste. When mixed, put currants into one half, and carraways into
the rest. Cut them as before, and bake on tins.

_Very good common Plum Cakes._

Mix five ounces of butter in three pounds of dry flour, and five ounces
of fine Lisbon sugar; add six ounces of currants, washed and dried, and
some pimento finely powdered. Put three spoonfuls of yeast into a
Winchester pint of new milk warmed, and mix into a light dough with the
above. Make it into twelve cakes, and bake on a floured tin half an
hour.

_Benton Tea Cakes._

Mix a paste of flour, a little bit of butter, and milk; roll as thin as
possible, and bake on a back-stone over the fire, or on a hot hearth.

_Another sort, as Biscuit._

Rub into a pound of flour six ounces of butter, and three large
spoonfuls of yeast, and make into a paste, with a sufficient quantity of
new milk; make into biscuit, and prick them with a clean fork.

_Another sort._

Melt six or seven ounces of butter with a sufficiency of new milk warmed
to make seven pounds of flour into a stiff paste: roll thin, and make
into biscuit.

_Hard Biscuit._

Warm two ounces of butter in as much skimmed milk as will make a pound
of flour into a very stiff paste, beat it with a rolling pin, and work
it very smooth. Roll it thin, and cut it into round biscuit; prick them
full of holes with a fork. About six minutes will bake them.

_Flat Cakes, that will keep long in the house good._

Mix two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, and one ounce of carraways,
with four or five eggs, and a few spoonfuls of water to make a stiff
paste; roll it thin, and cut into any shape. Bake on tins lightly
floured. While baking, boil a pound of sugar in a pint of water to a
thin syrup; while both are hot, dip each cake into it, and put them on
tins into the oven to dry for a short time; and when the oven is cooler
still, return them there again, and let them stay four or five hours.

_Plain and very crisp Biscuit._

Make a pound of flour, the yelk of an egg, and some milk, into a very
stiff paste; beat it well, and knead till quite smooth; roll very thin,
and cut into biscuit. Bake them in a slow oven till quite dry and crisp.

_Little Plumcakes, to keep long._

Dry one pound of flour, and mix with six ounces of finely pounded sugar,
beat six ounces of butter to a cream, and add to three eggs, well
beaten, half a pound of currants washed, and nicely dried, and the flour
and sugar; beat all for some time, then dredge flour on tin plates, and
drop the batter on them the size of a walnut. If properly mixed, it will
be a stiff paste. Bake in a brisk oven.

_Rusks._

Beat seven eggs well, and mix with half a pint of new milk, in which has
been melted four ounces of butter; add to it a quarter of a pint of
yeast, and three ounces of sugar, and put them, by degrees, into as much
flour as will make a _very_ light paste, rather like a batter, and let
it rise before the fire half an hour; then add some more flour to make
it a little stiffer, but not stiff. Work it well and divide it into
small loaves or cakes, about five or six inches wide and flatten them.
When baked and cold, slice them the thickness of rusks, and put them in
the oven to brown a little.

_Note._ The cakes, when first baked, eat deliciously buttered for tea;
or with carraways to eat cold.

_A Biscuit Cake._

One pound of flour, five eggs well beaten and strained, eight ounces of
sugar, a little rose or orange flower water; beat the whole thoroughly,
and bake one hour.

_Cracknuts._

Mix eight ounces of flour, and eight ounces of sugar; melt four ounces
of butter in two spoonfuls of raisin wine; then with four eggs beaten
and strained, make into a paste; add carraways, roll out as thin as
paper, cut with the top of a glass, wash with the white of an egg, and
dust sugar over.

_Water Cakes._

Dry three pounds of fine flour, and rub into it one pound of sugar
sifted, one pound of butter, and one ounce of carraway seed. Make into a
paste with three quarters of a pint of boiling new milk, roll very thin,
and cut into the size you choose; punch full of holes, and bake on tin
plates in a cool oven.

_Cracknels._

Mix with a quart of flour half a nutmeg grated, the yelks of four eggs
beaten with four spoonfuls of rosewater, into a stiff paste, with cold
water; then roll in a pound of butter, and make them into a cracknel
shape; put them into a kettle of boiling water, and boil them till they
swim, then take out, and put them into cold water; when hardened, lay
them out to dry, and bake them on tin plates.

_Rice Cake._

Mix ten ounces of ground rice, three ounces of flour, eight ounces of
pounded sugar; then sift by degrees into eight yelks and six whites of
eggs, and the peel of a lemon shred so fine that it is quite mashed. Mix
the whole well in a tin stewpan over a very slow fire with a whisk, then
put it immediately into the oven in the same, and bake forty minutes.

_Another Rice Cake._

Beat twelve yelks and six whites of eggs with the peels of two lemons
grated. Mix one pound of flour of rice, eight ounces of flour, and one
pound of sugar pounded and sifted; then beat it well with the eggs by
degrees, for an hour, with a wooden spoon. Butter a pan well; and put it
in at the oven mouth.

A gentle oven will bake it in an hour and a half.

_Sponge Cake._

Weigh ten eggs, and their weight in very fine sugar, and that of six in
flour; beat the yelks with the flour, and the whites alone to a very
stiff froth; then by degrees mix the whites and the flour with the other
ingredients, and beat them well half an hour. Bake in a quick oven an
hour.

_Another, without Butter._

Dry one pound of flour, and one and a quarter of sugar; beat seven eggs,
yelks and whites apart; grate a lemon, and with a spoonful of brandy,
beat the whole together with your hand for an hour. Bake in a buttered
pan, in a quick oven.

Sweetmeats may be added, if approved.

_Macaroons._

Blanch four ounces of almonds, and pound with four spoonfuls of orange
flower water; whisk the white of four eggs to a froth, then mix it, and
a pound of sugar, sifted, with the almonds to a paste; and laying a
sheet of wafer paper on a tin, put it on in different little cakes the
shape of macaroons.

_Wafers._

Dry the flour well which you intend to use, mix a little pounded sugar
and finely pounded mace with it, then make it into a thick batter with
cream; butter the wafer irons, let them be hot, put a teaspoonful of the
batter into them, so bake them carefully, and roll them off the iron
with a stick.

_Tunbridge Cakes._

Rub six ounces of butter quite fine into a pound of flour, then mix six
ounces of sugar, beat and strain two eggs, and make with the above into
a paste. Roll it very thin, and cut with the top of a glass; prick them
with a fork, and cover with carraways, or wash with the white of an egg,
and dust a little white sugar over.

_Gingerbread._

Mix with two pounds of flour half a pound of treacle, three quarters of
an ounce of carraways, one ounce of ginger finely sifted, and ten ounces
of butter.

Roll the paste into what form you please, and bake on tins.

If you like sweetmeats, add orange candied; it may be added in small
bits.

_Another sort._

To three quarters of a pound of treacle beat one egg strained; mix four
ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ginger sifted, of cloves, mace,
allspice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce, beaten as fine as possible;
coriander and carraway seeds, each a quarter of an ounce; melt one pound
of butter, and mix with the above; and add as much flour as will knead
into a pretty stiff paste; then roll it out, and cut into cakes.

Bake on tin plates in a quick oven. A little time will bake them.

Of some, drops may be made.

_To make a good Gingerbread, without Butter._

Mix two pounds of treacle, of orange, lemon, citron, and candied ginger,
each four ounces, all thinly sliced, one ounce of coriander seeds, one
ounce of carraways, and one ounce of beaten ginger, in as much flour as
will make a soft paste; lay it in cakes on tin plates, and bake it in a
quick oven. Keep it dry in a covered earthen vessel, and it will be good
for some months.

_Note._ If cake or biscuit be kept in paper or a drawer, the taste will
be disagreeable. A pan and cover, or tureen, will preserve them long and
moist. Or, if to be crisp, laying them before the fire will make them
so.

_A good plain Bun, that may be eaten with or without toasting and
Butter._

Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of flour, four ounces of
sugar, a nutmeg, or not, as you like, a few Jamaica peppers, a dessert
spoonful of carraways; put a spoonful or two of cream into a cup of
yeast, and as much good milk as will make the above into a light paste.
Set it to rise by a fire till the oven be ready. They will quickly bake
on tins.

_Richer Buns._

Mix one pound and a half of dried flour, with half a pound of sugar;
melt a pound and two ounces of butter in a little warm water; add six
spoonfuls of rosewater, and knead the above into a light dough, with
half a pint of yeast; then mix five ounces of carraway comfits in, and
put some on them.

_Muffins._

Mix two pounds of flour with two eggs, two ounces of butter melted in a
pint of milk, and four or five spoonfuls of yeast; beat it thoroughly,
and set it to rise two or three hours. Bake on a hot hearth in flat
cakes. When done on one side turn them.

_Note._ Muffins, rolls, or bread, if stale, may be made to taste new, by
dipping in cold water, and toasting or heating in an oven, or Dutch
oven, till the outside be crimp.

_French Rolls._

Rub an ounce of butter into a pound of flour, mix one egg beaten, a
little yeast that is not bitter, and as much milk as will make a dough
of a middling stiffness. Beat it well, but do not knead; let it rise,
and bake on tins.

_Brentford Rolls._

Mix with two pounds of flour a little salt, two ounces of sifted sugar,
four ounces of butter, and two eggs beaten with two spoonfuls of yeast,
and about a pint of milk. Knead the dough well, and set it to rise
before the fire. Make twelve rolls, butter tin plates, and set them
before the fire to rise till they become a proper size; then bake half
an hour.

_Excellent Rolls._

Warm one ounce of butter in half a pint of milk, put to it a spoonful
and half of yeast of small beer, and a little salt. Put two pounds of
flour into a pan, and mix in the above. Let it rise an hour; knead it
well; and make into seven rolls, and bake in a quick oven.

If made in cakes three inches thick, sliced and buttered, they resemble
Sally Lumm’s as made at Bath.

The foregoing receipt, with the addition of a little saffron, boiled in
half a teacupful of milk, makes remarkably good

_Saffron cakes, to eat hot with butter._

_Potatoe Butter._

Boil three pounds of potatoes, bruise and work them with two ounces of
butter, and as much milk as will make them pass through a colander. Take
half or three quarters of a pint of yeast, and half a pint of warm
water, mix with the potatoes, then pour the whole upon five pounds of
flour, and add some salt. Knead it well; if not of a proper consistence,
put a little more milk and water warm. Let it stand before the fire an
hour to rise. Work it well, and make into rolls. Bake about half an hour
in an oven not quite so hot as for bread.

They eat well toasted and buttered.

_Yorkshire Cake._

Take two pounds of flour, and mix with it four ounces of butter melted
in a pint of good milk, three spoonfuls of yeast, and two eggs; beat all
well together, and let it rise; then knead it, and make into cakes; let
them rise on tins before you bake, which do in a slow oven.

Another sort is made as above, leaving out the butter.

The first sort is shorter; the last lighter.

_French Bread._

With a quarter of a peck of fine flour mix the yelks of three and whites
of two eggs, beaten and strained, a little salt, half a pint of good
yeast that is not bitter, and as much milk, made a little warm, as will
work into a thin light dough. Stir it about, but do not knead it. Have
ready three quart wooden dishes, divide the dough among them, set to
rise, then turn them out into the oven, which must be quick. Rasp when
done.

_To make Yeast._

Thicken two quarts of water, with fine flour about three spoonfuls; boil
half an hour, sweeten with near half a pound of brown sugar; when near
cold, put into it four spoonfuls of fresh yeast in a jug, shake it well
together, and let stand one day to ferment near the fire, without being
covered. There will be a thin liquor on the top, which must be poured
off, shake the remainder, and cork it up for use. Take always four
spoonfuls of the old to ferment the next quantity, keeping it always in
succession.

An half peck loaf will require about a gill.

_Another way._

Boil one pound of potatoes to a mash, when half cold add a cupful of
yeast, and mix it well. It will be ready for use in two or three hours,
and keeps well.

Use a double quantity of this to what you do of beer yeast.

To take off the bitter of yeast, put bran into a sieve, and pour it
through.

_To preserve Yeast._

When you have plenty of yeast begin to save it in the following manner;
whisk it until it becomes thin, then get a large wooden dish, wash it
very nicely, and when quite dry, lay a layer of yeast over the inside
with a soft brush; let it dry, then put another layer in the same
manner, and so do until you have a sufficient quantity, observing that
each coat dry thoroughly before another be added. It may be put on two
or three inches thick, and will keep several months; when to be used cut
a piece out; stir it in warm water.

If to be used for brewing, keep it by dipping large handfuls of birch
tied together; and when dry, repeat the dipping once. You may thus do as
many as you please; but take care that no dust comes to them, or the
vessel in which it has been prepared as before. When the wort be set to
work, throw into it one of these bunches, and it will do as well as with
fresh yeast; but if mixed with a small quantity first, and then added to
the whole, it will work sooner.

_To pot Cheese._

Cut and pound four ounces of Cheshire cheese, one ounce and a half of
fine butter, a teaspoonful of white pounded sugar, a little bit of mace,
and a glass of white wine. Press it down in a deep pot.

_To roast Cheese, to come up after dinner._

Grate three ounces of fat Cheshire cheese, mix it with the yelks of two
eggs, four ounces of grated bread, and four ounces of butter, beat the
whole well in a mortar, with a teaspoonful of mustard, and a little salt
and pepper. Toast some bread, lay the paste as above thick upon it, put
it into a Dutch oven, covered with a dish till hot through, remove the
dish, and let the cheese brown a _little_. Serve as hot as possible.

_To poach Eggs._

Set a stewpan of water on the fire; when boiling, slip an egg,
previously broken into a cup, into the water; when the white looks done
enough, slide an egg slice under the egg, and lay it on toast and
butter, or spinach. As soon as enough are done, serve hot.

* * * * *

The servants of each country are generally acquainted with the best mode
of managing the butter and cheese of that country; but the following
hints may not be unacceptable to give information to the Mistress.

DAIRY.

The greatest possible attention must be paid to cleanliness. All the
utensils must be daily scalded and brushed, washed in plenty of cold
water, dried with clean cloths, and turned up in the air.

The dairy should be kept perfectly clean and cool.

In milking, if the cows be not left perfectly dry, the quantity will be
decreased. The quantity depends on the goodness of different cows, on
the pasture, and on the length of time from calving. A middling cow
gives a pound of butter a day for five or six weeks, and sometimes
longer. When the milk decreases, a change even to a worse pasture will
effect an alteration; and where water is within reach of the animals, it
is of great consequence to the milk.

The chief of the cows should come in the end of March, or the beginning
of April, and one the end of September; then the family will be supplied
with milk in the winter.

When a calf is to be reared, it should be taken from the cow in a week
at furthest, or it will cause great trouble in rearing, because it will
be difficult to make it take milk in a pan. The calf should be taken
from the cow in the morning, and kept without food till next morning,
when being hungry it will take it without much trouble. Skimmed milk
made as warm as new, is to be given twice a day in such quantities as it
shall require and if milk run short, a fine smooth gruel mixed with it
will do very well. This is to be continued till the calf be taken out to
grass, which at first will be only by day, then milk must be given when
housed in the evening.

_To scald Cream._

In winter the milk stands twenty four hours before scalded; in the
summer twelve. The milkpan is to be put on a hot hearth, if you have
one, or if not, into a brass kettle of water, of a size to receive the
pan. It must remain on the fire till quite hot, but on no account boil,
or there will be a skin, instead of cream, upon the milk. You will know
when done enough by the undulations on the surface, and looking quite
thick. The time required to scald cream depends on the size of the pan
and the heat of the fire; the slower the better. Remove the pan into the
dairy when done, and skim it next day.

Of cream thus prepared, the butter is usually made in Devonshire, &c.

_Buttermilk._

If made of sweet cream, is a delicious and most wholesome food. Those
who can relish sour buttermilk, find it still more light; and it is
reckoned more beneficial in some cases.

_To cure Mawskins for Rennet._

Cut the calf’s stomach open, rub it well with salt, let it hang to drain
two days, then salt it well, and let it lie in that pickle a month or
more; then take it out, drain, and flour it, stretch it out with a
stick, and let it hang up to dry.

A piece of this is to be soaked, and kept ready to turn the milk in
cheesemaking time.

Some lands make cheese of a better quality than the butter produced on
them is.

When the soil is poor, the cheese will want fat; to remedy which, after
pressing the whey from the curd, crumble it quite small, and work into
it a pound of fine fresh butter; then press, &c. as usual.

_Cream Cheese._

Put five quarts of strippings, that is, the last of the milk, into a
pan, with two spoonfuls of rennet. When the curd is come, strike it down
two or three times with the skimming dish just to break it. Let it stand
two hours, then spread a cheesecloth on a sieve, put the curd on it, and
let the whey drain; break the curd a little with your hand, and put it
into a vat with a two pound weight upon it. Let it stand twelve hours,
take it out, and bind a fillet round. Turn every day till dry, from one
board to another; cover them with nettles, or clean dockleaves, and put
between two pewter plates to ripen. If the weather be warm, it will be
ready in three weeks.

_Another._

Have ready a kettle of boiling water, put five quarts of new milk into a
pan, and _five pints_ of cold water, and _five_ of hot; when of a proper
heat, put in as much rennet as will bring it in twenty minutes, likewise
a bit of sugar. When come, strike the skimmer three or four times down,
and leave it on the curd. In an hour or two lade it into the vat without
touching it; put a two pound weight on it when the whey has run from it,
and the vat is full.

_Another sort._

Put as much salt to three pints of raw cream as shall season it; stir it
well, and pour it into a sieve in which you have folded a cheesecloth
three or four times, and laid at the bottom. When it hardens, cover it
with nettles on a pewter plate.

_Rush Cream Cheese._

To a quart of fresh cream, put a pint of new milk warm enough to make
the cream a proper warmth, a bit of sugar and a little rennet.

Set near the fire till the curd comes, fill a vat made in the form of a
brick, of wheat straw or rushes sewed together. Have ready a square of
straw, or rushes sewed flat to rest the vat on, and another to cover it;
the vat being open at top and bottom. Next day take it out, and change
it as above to ripen. A half pound weight will be sufficient to put on
it.

_Another way._

Take a pint of very thick sour cream from the top of the pan for
gathering for butter, lay a napkin on two plates, and pour half into
each, let them stand twelve hours, then put them on a fresh wet napkin
in one plate, and cover with the same; this do every twelve hours until
you find the cheese begins to look dry, then ripen it with nut leaves;
it will be ready in ten days.

Fresh nettles, or two pewter plates, will ripen cream cheese very well.

_To brew very fine Welsh Ale._

Pour forty two gallons of water hot, but not quite boiling, on four
bushels of malt, cover, and let it stand three hours. In the mean time
infuse a pound and a half of hops in a little hot water, or two pounds
if the ale is to be kept five or six months, and put water and hops into
the tub, and run the wort upon them, and boil them together three hours.
Strain off the hops, and keep for the small beer. Let the wort stand in
a high tub till cool enough to receive the yeast, of which put two
quarts of ale, or if you cannot get it, of small beer yeast. Mix it
thoroughly and often. When the wort has done working, the second or
third day, the yeast will sink rather than rise in the middle, remove it
then, and turn the ale as it works out, pour a quart in at a time, and
gently, to prevent the fermentation from continuing too long, which
weakens the liquor. Put a bit of paper over the bunghole two or three
days before stopping up.

_Strong Beer, or Ale._

Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, eight for ale; for
either pour the whole quantity of water hot, but not boiling, on at
once, and let it infuse three hours close covered; mash it in the first
half hour, and let it stand the remainder of the time. Run it on the
hops previously infused in water; for strong beer three quarters of a
pound to a bushel, if for ale, half a pound. Boil them with the wort two
hours from the time it begins to boil. Cool a pailful to add three
quarts of yeast to, which will prepare it for putting to the rest when
ready next day; but if possible, put together the same night. Turn as
usual. Cover the bunghole with paper when the beer has done working; and
when it is to be stopped have ready a pound and a half of hops, dried
before the fire, put them into the bunghole, and fasten it up.

Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in bottles before it be
drank. It will keep, and be very fine, eight or ten years. It should be
brewed the beginning of March.

Great care must be taken that bottles are perfectly prepared, and that
the corks are of the best sort.

The ale will be ready in three or four months; and if the vent peg be
never removed, it will have spirit and strength to the very last. Allow
two gallons of water at first for waste.

After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a hogshead and a half
for the twelve bushels, and a hogshead of water if eight were brewed;
mash, and let stand, and then boil, &c. Use some of the hops for this
table beer that were boiled for the strong beer.

_Excellent Table Beer._

On three bushels of malt pour of hot water the third of the quantity you
are to use, which is to be thirty nine gallons. Cover it warm half an
hour, then mash, and let it stand two hours and a half more, then set it
to drain. When dry, add half the remaining water, mash, and let it stand
half an hour, run that into another tub, and pour the rest of the water
on the malt, stir it well, and cover it, letting it infuse a full hour.
Run that off, and mix all together. A pound and a quarter of hops should
be infused in water, as in the former receipt, and be put into the tub
for the first running.

Boil the hops with the wort an hour from the time it first boils. Strain
off, and cool. If the whole be not cool enough that day to add to the
yeast, a pail or two of wort may be prepared, and a quart of yeast put
to it over night. Before tunning, all the wort should be added together,
and thoroughly mixed with the lade pail. When the wort ceases to work,
put a bit of paper on the bunghole for three days, when it may be safely
fastened close. In three or four weeks the beer will be fit for
drinking.

_Note._ Servants should be directed to put a cork into every barrel as
soon as the cock is taken out, the air causing casks to become musty.

_To refine Beer, Ale, Wine, or Cider._

Put two ounces of isinglass shavings to soak in a quart of the liquor
that you want to clear, beat it with a whisk every day till dissolved.
Draw off a third part of the cask, and mix the above with it; likewise a
quarter of an ounce of pearlashes, one ounce of salt of tartar calcined,
and one ounce of burnt alum powdered. Stir it well, then return the
liquor into the cask, and stir it with a clean stick. Stop it up, and in
a few days it will be fine.

_To make excellent Coffee._ See among sick Cookery.

_Orgeat._

Boil a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon, sweeten to your
taste, and let grow cold; then pour it by degrees to three ounces of
almonds, and twenty bitter, that have been blanched and beaten to a
paste, with a little water to prevent oiling; boil all together, and
stir till cold, then add half a glass of brandy.

_Another way._

Blanch and pound three quarters of a pound of almonds, and thirty
bitter, with a spoonful of water. Stir in by degrees two pints of water,
and three of milk, and strain the whole through a cloth. Dissolve half a
pound of fine sugar in a pint of water, boil and skim it well; mix it
with the other, as likewise two spoonfuls of orange flower water, and a
teacupful of the best brandy.

_Lemonade. To be made a day before wanted._

Pare two dozen of tolerably sized lemons as thin as possible, put
eighteen of the rinds into three quarts of hot, not boiling water, and
cover it over for three or four hours. Rub some fine sugar on the lemons
to attract the essence, and put it into a China bowl, into which squeeze
the juice of the lemons: to it add one pound and a half of fine sugar,
then put the water to the above, and three quarts of milk made boiling
hot; mix, and pour through a jellybag till perfectly clear.

_Another way._

Pare a number of lemons according to the quantity you are likely to
want; on the peels pour hot water, but more juice will be necessary than
you need use the peels of. While infusing, boil sugar and water to a
good syrup with the white of an egg whipt up. When it boils, pour a
little cold water into it; set it on again, and when it boils up take
the pan off, and set it to settle. If there is any skum, take it off,
and pour it clear from the sediment to the water the peels were infused
in, and the lemonjuice; stir and taste it, and add as much more water as
shall be necessary to make a very rich lemonade. Wet a jellybag, and
squeeze it dry, then strain the liquor, which is uncommonly fine.

_Raspberry vinegar._

Put a pound of fine fruit into a China bowl, and pour upon it a quart of
the best white wine vinegar; next day strain the liquor on a pound of
fresh raspberries; and the following day do the same, but do not squeeze
the fruit, only drain the liquor as dry as you can from it. The last
time pass it through a canvass previously wet with vinegar to prevent
waste. Put it into a stonejar, with a pound of sugar to every pint of
juice, broken into large lumps; stir it when melted, then put the jar
into a saucepan of water, or on a hot hearth, let it simmer, and skim
it. When cold, bottle it.

This is one of the most useful preparations that can be kept in a house,
not only as affording the most refreshing beverage, but being of
singular efficacy in complaints of the chest. A large spoonful or two in
a tumbler of water.

N. B. Use no glazed or metal vessel for it.

_Note._ The fruit, with equal quantity of sugar, makes excellent
raspberry cakes without boiling.

_Raspberry wine._

To every quart of well picked raspberries put a quart of water; bruise,
and let them stand two days; strain off the liquor, and to every gallon
put three pounds of lump sugar; when dissolved put the liquor in a
barrel, and when fine, which will be in about two months, bottle it, and
to each bottle put a spoonful of brandy, or a glass of wine.

_Raspberry, or Currant wine._

To every three pints of fruit, carefully cleared from mouldy or bad, put
one quart of water; bruise the former. In twenty four hours strain the
liquor, and put to every quart a pound of sugar, a good middling quality
of Lisbon. If for white currants, use lump sugar. It is best to put the
fruit, &c. in a large pan, and when in three or four days the skum
rises, take that off before the liquor be put into the barrel.

Those who make from their own gardens may not have a sufficiency to fill
the barrel at once. The wine will not be hurt if made in the pan, in the
above proportions, and added as the fruit ripens, and can be gathered in
dry weather. Keep an account of what is put in each time.

_Imperial._

Put two ounces of cream of tartar, and the juice and paring of two
lemons into a stonejar; pour on them seven quarts of boiling water, stir
and cover close. When cold, sweeten with loaf sugar, and straining it,
bottle and cork it tight.

This is a very pleasant liquor, and very wholesome; but from the latter
consideration was at one time drank in such quantities, as to become
injurious. Add, in bottling, half a pint of rum to the whole quantity.

_Excellent Gingerwine._

Put into a very nice boiler ten gallons of water, twelve pounds and a
half of lump sugar, with the whites of six or eight eggs well beaten and
strained; mix all well while cold; when the liquor boils, skim it well;
put in half a pound of common white ginger bruised, boil it twenty
minutes. Have ready the very thin rinds of ten lemons, and pour the
liquor on them; when _cool_, turn it with two spoonfuls of yeast; put a
quart of the liquor to two ounces of isinglass shavings, while warm,
_whisk_ it well three or four times, and pour all together into the
barrel. Next day stop it up; in three weeks bottle, and in three months
it will be a delicious and refreshing liquor; and though very cool,
perfectly safe.

_Another for Gingerwine._

Boil nine quarts of water with six pounds of lump sugar, the rinds of
two or three lemons very thinly pared, with two ounces of bruised white
ginger half an hour; skim. Put three quarters of a pound of raisins into
the cask; when the liquor is lukewarm, tun it with the juice of two
lemons strained, and a spoonful and a half of yeast. Stir it daily, then
put in half a pint of brandy, and half an ounce of isinglass shavings;
stop it up, and bottle it six or seven weeks. Do not put the lemonpeel
in the barrel.

_Alderwine._

To every quart of berries put two quarts of water, _boil_ half an hour,
run the liquor, and break the fruit through a hair sieve; then to every
quart of juice, put three quarters of a pound of Lisbon sugar, not the
very coarsest, but coarse. Boil the whole a quarter of an hour with some
Jamaica peppers, ginger, and a few cloves. Pour it into a tub, and when
of a proper warmth into the barrel, with toast and yeast to work, which
there is more difficulty to make it do than most other liquors. When it
ceases to hiss, put a quart of brandy to eight gallons, and stop up.
Bottle in the spring or at Christmas.

_White Alderwine; very much like Frontiniac._

Boil eighteen pounds of white powder sugar, with six gallons of water,
and two whites of eggs well beaten; then skim it, and put in a quarter
of a peck of alder flowers from the tree that bears _white_ berries; do
not keep them on the fire. When near cold, stir it, and put in six
spoonfuls of lemonjuice, four or five of yeast, and beat well into the
liquor; stir it every day; put six pounds of the best raisins, stoned,
into the cask, and tun the wine. Stop it close, and bottle in six
months.

When well kept, this wine will pass for Frontiniac.

_Clary Wine._

Boil fifteen gallons of water, with forty five pounds of sugar, skim it,
when cool put a little to a quarter of a pint of yeast, and so by
degrees add a little more. In an hour pour the small quantity to the
large, pour the liquor on clary flowers, picked in the dry; the quantity
for the above is twelve quarts. Those who gather from their own garden
may not have sufficient to put in at once, and may add as they can get
them, keeping account of each quart. When it ceases to hiss, and the
flowers are all in, stop it up for four months. Rack it off, empty the
barrel of the dregs, and adding a gallon of the best brandy, stop it up,
and let it stand six or eight weeks then bottle it.

_A rich and pleasant Wine._

Take new cyder from the press, mix it with as much honey as will support
an egg, boil gently fifteen minutes, but not in an iron, brass, or
copper pot. Skim it well; when cool, let it be tunned, but do not quite
fill. In March following bottle it, and it will be fit to drink in six
weeks; will be less sweet if kept longer in the cask. You will have a
rich and strong wine, and it will keep well. This will serve for any
culinary purposes which sack, or sweet wine, are directed for.

Duhamel says, honey is a fine ingredient to assist, and render
palatable, new crabbed austere cider.

_Raisinwine, with Cider._

Put two hundred weight of Malaga raisins into a cask, and pour upon them
a hogshead of good sound cider that is not rough. Stir it well two or
three days; stop it, and let it stand six months; then rack into a cask
that it will fill, and put in a gallon of the best brandy.

If raisinwine be much used, it would answer well to keep a cask always
for it, and bottle off one year’s wine just in time to make the next,
which, allowing the six months of infusion, would make the wine to be
eighteen months old. In cider countries this way is very economical; and
even if not thought strong enough, the addition of another quarter of a
hundred of raisins would be sufficient, and the wine would still be very
cheap.

When the raisins are pressed through a horsehair bag, they will either
produce a very good spirit by distillation, and must be sent to a
chymist who will do it (but if for that purpose, they must be very
little pressed); or they will make excellent vinegar, on which article
see page 116.

The stalks should be picked off for the above, and may be thrown into
any cask of vinegar that is making; being very acid.

_Raisinwine, without Cider._

On four hundred weight of Malagas pour one hogshead of spring water,
stir well daily for fourteen days, then squeeze the raisins in a
horsehair bag in a press, and tun the liquor; when it ceases to hiss,
stop it close. In six months rack it off into another cask, or into a
tub, and after clearing out the sediment, return it into the same, but
do not wash it; add a gallon of the best brandy, stop it close, and in
six months bottle it.

Take care of the pressed fruit, for the uses of which refer to the
preceding receipt.

_Ratafia._

Blanch two ounces of peach and apricot kernels, bruise and put them into
a bottle, and fill nearly up with brandy. Dissolve half a pound of white
sugarcandy in a cup of cold water, and add to the brandy after it has
stood a month on the kernels, and they are strained off; then filter
through paper, and bottle for use.

_Raspberry brandy._

Pick fine dry fruit, put into a stonejar, and the jar into a kettle of
water, or on a hot hearth, till the juice will run; strain, and to every
pint add half a pound of sugar, give one boil, and skim it; when cold,
put equal quantities of juice and brandy, shake well, and bottle. Some
people prefer it stronger of the brandy.

_Verder, or Milkpunch._

Pare six oranges, and six lemons as thin as you can, grate them after
with sugar to get the flavour. Steep the peels in a bottle of rum or
brandy stopped close twenty four hours. Squeeze the fruit on a pound and
a half of sugar, add to it four quarts of water, and one of new milk
boiling hot; stir the rum into the above, and run it through a jellybag
till perfectly clear. Bottle, and cork close immediately.

_Norfolkpunch._

Pare six lemons and three Seville oranges very thin, squeeze the juice
into a large teapot, put to it two quarts of brandy, one of white wine,
and one of milk, and one pound and a quarter of sugar. Let it be mixed,
and then covered for twenty four hours, strain through a jellybag till
clear; then bottle it.

_Orange, or Lemon syrup; a most useful thing to keep in the house, to
take with water, in colds or fevers._

Squeeze the juice of very good fruit, and boil when strained, a pint to
a pound of sugar, over a very gentle fire; skim it well; when clear,
pour it into a China bowl, and in twenty four hours bottle it for use.

_White Currant shrub._

Strip the fruit, and prepare in a jar as for jelly; strain the juice, of
which put two quarts to one gallon of rum, and two pounds of lump sugar;
strain through a jellybag.

* * * * *

The following pages will contain Cookery for the sick; it being of more
consequence to support those whose bad appetites will not allow them to
take the necessary nourishment, than to stimulate those that are in
health.

It may not be unnecessary to advise that a choice be made of the things
most likely to agree with the patient; _that_ a change be provided;
_that_ some one at least be always ready; _that_ not too much of those
be made at once, which are not likely to keep, as invalids require
variety; and let them succeed each other in a different form and
flavour.

_A great Restorative._

Bake two calf’s feet in three pints of water, and new milk, in a jar
close covered, three hours and a half. When cold remove the fat.

Give a large teacupful the last and first thing. Whatever flavour is
approved, give it by baking in it lemonpeel, cinnamon, or mace. Add
sugar.

_Another._

Simmer six sheep’s trotters, two blades of mace, a little cinnamon,
lemonpeel, a few hartshorn shavings, and a little isinglass, in two
quarts of water to one; when cold take off the fat, and give near half a
pint twice a day; warming with it a little new milk.

_Another._

Boil one ounce of isinglass shavings, forty Jamaica peppers, and a bit
of brown crust of bread, in a quart of water to a pint, and strain it.

This makes a pleasant jelly to keep in the house; of which a large
spoonful may be taken in wine and water, milk, tea, soup, or any way.

_Another most pleasant Draught._

Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass shavings with a pint of new milk
to half, add a bit of sugar, and, for change, a bitter almond. Give this
at night, not too warm.

Blamange, Dutch Flummery, and Jellies, as directed pages 164 and 165, or
less rich according to judgment.

_A very nourishing Veal broth._

Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal, with very little meat to
it, an old fowl, and four shankbones of mutton extremely well soaked and
brushed, three blades of mace, ten peppercorns, an onion, and a large
bit of bread, and three quarts of water, into a stewpot that covers
close, and simmer in the slowest manner after it has boiled up, and been
skimmed; or, bake it; strain and take off the fat. Salt as wanted.

_A clear Broth that will keep long._

Put the mouse round of beef, a knucklebone of veal, and a few shanks of
mutton into a deep pan, and cover close with a dish or coarse crust;
bake till the beef is done enough for eating, with only as much water as
will cover. When cold, cover it close in a cool place. When to be used,
give what flavour may be approved.

_Dr. Ratcluff’s restorative Porkjelly._

Take a leg of well fed pork, just as cut up, beat it, and break the
bone. Set it over a gentle fire, with three gallons of water, and simmer
to one. Let half an ounce of mace, and the same of nutmegs, stew in it.
Strain through a line sieve. When cold, take off the fat. Give a
chocolate cup the first and last thing, and at noon, putting salt to
taste.

_Beef tea._

Cut a pound of fleshy beef in thin slices, simmer with a quart of water
twenty minutes, after it has once boiled, and been skimmed. Season, if
approved; but it has generally only salt.

_Broth of Beef, Mutton, and Veal._

Put two pounds of lean beef, two pounds of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs,
and ten peppercorns, into a nice tin saucepan, with five quarts of
water; simmer to three quarts; and clear from the fat when cold.

_Note._ That soup and broth made of different meats are more supporting,
as well as better flavoured.

TWO WAYS OF PREPARING A CHICKEN.

_Chicken panada._

Boil it till about three parts ready in a quart of water, take off the
skin, cut the white meat off when cold, and put into a marble mortar;
pound it to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in, season
with a little salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the least bit of lemonpeel.
Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency you like; it should be
such as you can drink, though tolerably thick.

This conveys great nourishment in small compass.

_Chicken broth._

Put the body and legs of the fowl that the panada was made of, taking
off the skin and rump, into the water it was boiled in, with one blade
of mace, one slice of onion, and ten white peppercorns. Simmer till the
broth be of a pleasant flavour. If not water enough, add a little. Beat
a quarter of an ounce of sweet almonds, with a teaspoonful of water,
fine, boil it in the broth, strain, and when cold, remove the fat.

_Shank jelly._

Soak twelve shanks of mutton four hours, then brush and scour them very
clean. Lay them in a saucepan with three blades of mace, an onion,
twenty Jamaica, and thirty or forty black peppers, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and a crust of bread made very brown by toasting. Pour three
quarts of water to them, and set them on a hot hearth close covered; let
them simmer as gently as possible for five hours, then strain it off,
and put it in a cold place.

This may have the addition of a pound of beef, if approved, for flavour.

_Eel broth._

Clean half a pound of small eels, and set them on with three pints of
water, some parsley, one slice of onion, a few peppercorns; let them
simmer till the eels are broken, and the broth good. Add salt.

The above should make three half pints of broth.

_Tench broth._

Make as above. They are both very nutritious, and light of digestion.

_A quick made Broth._

Take a bone or two of a neck or loin of mutton, take off the fat and
skin, set it on the fire in a small tin saucepan that has a cover, with
three quarters of a pint of water, the meat being first beaten, and cut
in thin bits; put a bit of thyme and parsley, and, if approved, a slice
of onion. Let it boil very quick, skim it nicely; take off the cover, if
likely to be too weak; else cover it. Half an hour is sufficient for the
whole process.

_Calf’s feet Broth._

Boil two feet in three quarts of water to half; strain and set it by.
When to be used, take off the fat, put a large teacupful of the jelly
into a saucepan, with half a glass of sweet wine, a little sugar and
nutmeg, and heat it up till it be ready to boil, then take a little of
it, and beat by degrees to the yelk of an egg, and adding a bit of
butter, the size of a nutmeg, stir it altogether, but do not let it
boil. Grate a bit of fresh lemonpeel into it.

_Another._

Boil two calf’s feet, two ounces of veal, and two of beef, the bottom of
a penny loaf, two or three blades of mace, half a nutmeg sliced, and a
little salt, in three quarts of water, to three pints; strain, and take
off the fat.

_Panada; made in five minutes._

Set a little water on the fire with a glass of white wine, some sugar,
and a scrape of nutmeg and lemonpeel; meanwhile grate some crumbs of
bread. The moment the mixture boils up, keeping it still on the fire,
put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it can. When of a proper
thickness just to drink, take it off.

_Another._

As above, but instead of a glass of wine, put in a spoonful, a
teaspoonful of rum, and a bit of butter; sugar as above.

This is a most pleasant mess.

_Another._

Put to the water a bit of lemonpeel, mix the crumbs in, and when nearly
boiled enough, put some lemon or orange syrup.

Observe to boil all the ingredients; for if any be added after, the
panada will break, and not jelly.

_Barleywater._

Boil an ounce of pearlbarley a few minutes to cleanse, then put on it a
quart of water, simmer an hour; when half done, put into it a bit of
fresh lemonpeel, and one bit of sugar. If likely to be too thick, you
may put another quarter of a pint of water.

_Common Barleywater._

Wash a handful of common barley, then simmer it gently in three pints of
water with a bit of lemonpeel.

This is less apt to nauseate than pearlbarley; but the former is a very
pleasant drink.

_A very agreeable Drink._

Into a tumbler of fresh cold water pour a table spoonful of capillaire;
and the same of good vinegar.

_Lemon water; a delightful drink._

Put two slices of lemon thinly pared into a teapot, and a little bit of
the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large spoonful of capillaire; pour in
a pint of boiling water, and stop close.

_Apple water._

Cut two large apples in slices, and pour a quart of boiling water on
them; or on roasted apples.

Tamarinds, currants fresh or in jelly, or scalded currants, or
cranberries, make excellent drinks; with a little sugar or not, as may
be agreeable.

_Raspberry Vinegarwater. See page 240._

This is one of the most delightful drinks that can be made.

_Toast and Water._

Toast slowly a thin piece of bread till extremely brown and hard, but
not the least black, then plunge it into a jug of cold water, and cover
it over an hour before used.

_Orangeade, or Lemonade._

Squeeze the juice; pour boiling water on a little of the peel, and cover
close. Boil water and sugar to a thin syrup, and skim it. When all are
cold, mix the juice, the infusion, and the syrup, with as much more
water as will make a rich sherbet; strain through a jellybag. Or,
squeeze the juice, and strain it, and add water and capillaire.

_Orgeat._

Beat two ounces of almonds with a teaspoonful of orange flower water,
and a bitter almond or two; then pour a quart of milk and water to the
paste. Sweeten with sugar, or capillaire.

Another orgeat for company, page 239.

_Milkporridge._

Make a fine gruel of half grits, long boiled; strain off; either add
cold milk, or warm with milk as may be approved. Serve with toast.

_French Milkporridge._

Stir some oatmeal and water together, let it stand to be clear, and pour
off the latter: pour fresh upon it, stir it well, let it stand till next
day; strain through a fine sieve, and boil the water, adding milk while
doing. The proportion of water must be small.

This is much ordered, with toast, for the breakfast of weak persons
abroad.

_Caudle._

Make a fine smooth gruel of half grits; strain it when boiled well, stir
it at times till cold. When to be used, add sugar, wine, and lemonpeel,
with nutmeg. Some like a spoonful of brandy besides the wine.

_Another Caudle._

Boil up half a pint of fine gruel, with a bit of butter the size of a
large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy, the same of white wine, one of
capillaire, a bit of lemonpeel and nutmeg.

_Rice Caudle._

When the water boils, pour it into some grated rice mixed with a little
cold water; when of a proper consistence add sugar, lemonpeel and
cinnamon, and a glass of brandy to a quart. Boil all smooth.

_Cold Caudle._

Boil a quart of spring water; when cold, add the yelk of an egg, the
juice of a small lemon, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your
taste; and syrup of lemons one ounce.

_A refreshing drink in a Fever._

Put a little tea sage, two sprigs of balm, and a _little_ woodsorrel
into a stone jug, having first washed and dried them; peel thin a small
lemon, and clear from the white; slice it, and put a bit of the peel in,
then pour in three points of boiling water, sweeten, and cover it close.

_Another Drink._

Wash extremely well an ounce of pearlbarley; shift it twice, then put to
it three pints of water, an ounce of sweet almonds beaten fine, and a
bit of lemonpeel. Boil till you have a smooth liquor, then put in a
little syrup of lemons and capillaire.

_Another Drink._

Boil three pints of water with an ounce and a half of tamarinds, three
ounces of currants, and two ounces of stoned raisins, till near a third
be consumed. Strain it.

_A most pleasant Drink._

Put a teacupful of cranberries into a cup of water, and mash them. In
the mean time boil two quarters and a pint of water with one large
spoonful of oatmeal, and a very large bit of lemonpeel: then add the
cranberries, and as much fine Lisbon sugar as shall leave a smart
flavour of the fruit; and a quarter of a pint of sherry or less, as may
be proper; boil all for half an hour, and strain off.

_Whey._

That of cheese is a very wholesome drink, especially when the cows are
in fresh herbage.

_White Wine whey._

Put half a pint of new milk on the fire; the moment it boils up, pour in
as much sound raisin wine as will completely turn it, and it looks
clear; let it boil up, then set the saucepan aside till the curd
subsides, and do not stir it. Pour the whey off, and add to it half a
pint of boiling water, and a bit of white sugar. Thus you will have a
whey perfectly cleared of milky particles, and as weak as you choose to
make it.

_Vinegar and Lemon wheys._

Pour into boiling milk as above, and when clear, dilute with boiling
water, and put a bit or two of sugar.

_Eggwine._

Beat an egg, mix with it a spoonful of cold water; set on the fire a
glass of white wine, half a glass of water and sugar, and nutmeg. When
it boils, pour a little of it to the egg by degrees, till the whole be
in, stirring it well; then return the whole into the saucepan, put it on
a gentle fire, stir it one way for not more than a minute; for if it
boil, or the egg be stale, it will curdle. Serve with toast.

Eggwine may be made as above, without warming the egg, and it is then
lighter on the stomach, though not so pleasant to the taste.

An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed with a bason of
milk, makes a breakfast more supporting than tea.

An egg divided, and the yelk and white beaten separately, then mixed
with a glass of wine, will afford two very wholesome draughts, and prove
lighter than when taken together.

Eggs very little boiled or poached, taken in small quantity, convey much
nourishment.

_The following is a particularly soft and fine draught, to be taken
the first and last thing, by those who are weak, and have a cough._

Beat a fresh laid egg, and mix it with a quarter of a pint of new milk
warmed, a large spoonful of capillaire, the same of rosewater, and a
little nutmeg scraped. Do not warm after the egg is put in.

_Chocolate._

Those who use much of this article, will find the following mode of
preparing both useful and economical.

Cut a cake of chocolate in very small bits; put a pint of water into the
pot, and, when it boils, put in the above; mill it off the fire until
quite melted, then on a gentle fire till it boil; pour it into a bason,
and it will keep in a cool place eight or ten days, or more. When wanted
put a spoonful or two into milk, boil it with sugar, and mill it well.

This, if not made thick, is a very good breakfast or supper.

_To make Coffee._

Put two ounces of fresh ground coffee of the best quality into a
coffeepot, and pour eight coffee cups of boiling water on it; let it
boil six minutes, pour out a cupful two or three times, and return it
again; then put two or three isinglass chips into it, and pour one large
spoonful of boiling water on it; boil it five minutes more, and set the
pot by the fire to keep hot for ten minutes, and you will have coffee,
of a beautiful clearness.

Fine cream should always be served with coffee, and either pounded
sugarcandy or fine Lisbon sugar.

If for foreigners, or those who like it extremely strong, make only
eight dishes from three ounces. If not fresh roasted, lay it before a
fire until perfectly hot and dry; or you may put the smallest bit of
fresh butter into a preserving pan of a small size, and, when hot throw
the coffee in it, and toss it about until it be freshened.

_Coffee Milk._

Boil a dessert spoonful of ground coffee, in nearly a pint of milk, a
quarter of an hour; then put into it a shaving or two of isinglass, and
clear it. Let it boil a few minutes, and set it on the side of the fire
to grow fine.

This is a very fine breakfast. It should be sweetened with real Lisbon
sugar of a good quality.

_Ground Rice Milk._

Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down smooth, with three half
pints of milk, a bit of cinnamon, lemonpeel, and nutmeg. Sweeten when
nearly done.

_Tapioca jelly._

Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to wash it two or three
times, then soak it in fresh water five or six hours, and simmer it in
the same until it become quite clear; then put lemonjuice, wine, and
sugar. The peel should have been boiled in it. It thickens very much.

_Sago._

To prevent the earthy taste, soak it in cold water an hour; pour that
off, and wash it well; then add more, and simmer gently till the berries
are clear, with lemonpeel and spice, if approved. Add wine and sugar,
and boil all up together.

_Sago Milk._

Cleanse as above, and boil it slowly and wholly with new milk. It swells
so much that a small quantity will be sufficient for a quart, and when
done it will be diminished to about a pint. It requires no sugar, or
flavouring.

_Arrowroot jelly._

Of this beware of having the wrong sort; for it has been counterfeited
with bad effect.

Mix a large spoonful of the powder with, a teacup of cold water, by
degrees, and quite smooth. Put rather more than a pint of water over the
fire, with some white sugar, scraped nutmeg, and a spoonful and a half
of brandy, or two. The moment it boils, pour the powder and water in,
stirring it well; and when it boils up it is done.

This is a very useful thing in a house; and in the above mode a sick
person may be supplied with a fine supporting meal in a few minutes.

This and the following are particularly good in bowel complaints.

_A Flour Caudle._

Into five large spoonfuls of the purest water, rub smooth one
dessertspoonful of fine flour. Set over the fire five spoonfuls of new
milk, and put two bits of sugar into it; the moment it boils, pour into
it, the flour and water, and stir it over a slow fire twenty minutes.

_A Rice Caudle._

Soak some Carolina rice in water an hour, strain it, and put two
spoonfuls of the rice into a pint and a quarter of milk; simmer till it
will pulp through a sieve, then put the pulp and milk into the saucepan,
with a bruised clove and a bit of white sugar. Simmer ten minutes; if
too thick, add a spoonful or two of milk, and serve with thin toast.

_Gloucester jelly._

Take rice, sago, pearlbarley, hartshorn shavings and eringoroot, each an
ounce; simmer with two pints of water to one, and strain it. When cold
it will be a jelly; of which give, dissolved in wine, milk, or broth, in
change with other nourishment.

_Mulled wine._

Boil some spice in a little water till the flavour is gained, then add
an equal quantity of port, some sugar and nutmeg; boil together, and
serve with toast.

_Asses’ Milk_

Far surpasses any imitation of it that can be made. It should be milked
into a glass that is kept warm by being in a bason of hot water.

The fixed air that it contains gives some people a pain in the stomach.

At first a teaspoonful of rum may be taken with it, but should only be
put in the moment it is to be swallowed.

_Artificial Asses’ Milk._

Boil together a quart of water, a quart of new milk, an ounce of white
sugarcandy, half an ounce of eringoroot, and half an ounce of conserve
of roses, till half be wasted.

This is astringent; therefore proportion the doses to the effect.

_Another._

Mix two spoonfuls of boiling water, two of milk, and an egg well beaten;
sweeten with pounded white sugarcandy.

This may be taken twice or thrice a day.

_Another._

Boil two ounces of hartshorn shavings, two ounces of pearlbarley, two
ounces of candied eringoroot, and one dozen of snails that have been
bruised, in two quarts of water to one. Mix with an equal quantity of
new milk, when taken, twice a day.

_Buttermilk, with Bread or without._

It is most wholesome when sour, as being less likely to be heavy, but
most agreeable when made of sweet cream.

_Dr. Boerhaave’s sweet Buttermilk._

Take the milk from the cow into a small churn, of about six shillings
price; in about ten minutes begin churning, and continue till the flakes
of butter swim about pretty thick, and the milk is discharged of all the
greasy particles, and appears thin and blue. Strain it through a sieve,
and drink it as frequently as possible.

It should form the whole of the patient’s drink, and the food should be
biscuit and rusks, in every way and sort; ripe and dried fruits of
various kinds, when a decline is apprehended.

Baked and dried fruits, raisins in particular, make excellent suppers
for invalids, with biscuit or common cake.

_When the Stomach will not receive Meat._

On an extreme hot plate put two or three sippets of bread, and pour over
them some gravy from beef, mutton, or veal, if there is no butter in the
dish. Sprinkle a little salt over.

This is much lighter than meat, and conveys a great deal of nourishment
in a small form.

Toast hard and dry a thin bit of bread, soak it in water, or port wine
and water, take it out and sift a little sugar, and, if you like it,
nutmeg.

Or pour boiling water over a captain’s biscuit, broken in pieces, and
steam it down in a bason; when soft, add a little strong souchong tea,
cream, and sugar, or wine, sugar, and nutmeg; or a teacupful of weak
rum, or brandy and water, with sugar, just to give taste.

_Saloop._

Boil a little water, with wine, lemonpeel, and sugar, together; then mix
with a small quantity of the powder, previously rubbed smooth, with a
little cold water; stir it all together, and boil it a few minutes.

* * * * *

I promised a few hints, to enable every family to assist the poor of
their neighborhood at a very trivial expense; and these may be varied or
amended at the discretion of the mistress.

Where cows are kept, a jug of skimmed milk is a valuable present.

When the oven is hot, a large pudding may be baked, and given to a sick
or young family; and thus made, the trouble is little: into a deep
coarse pan put half a pound of rice, four ounces of coarse sugar or
treacle, two quarts of milk, and two ounces of dripping, set it cold
into the oven. It will take a good while, but be an excellent solid
food.

A very good meal may be bestowed in a thing called Brewis, which is thus
made: cut a very thick upper crust of bread and put it into the pot
where salt beef is boiling and near ready; it will attract some of the
fat, and, when swelled out, will be no unpalatable dish to those who
rarely taste meat.

_A baked Soup._

Put a pound of any kind of meat cut in slices; two onions, two carrots,
ditto; two ounces of rice, a pint of split peas, or whole ones if
previously soaked, pepper and salt, into an earthen jug or pan, and pour
one gallon of water. Cover it very close, and bake it with the bread.

The cook should be charged to save the boiling of every piece of meat,
ham, tongue, &c. however salt: as it is easy to use only a part of that,
and the rest of fresh water, and by the addition of more vegetables, the
bones of the meat used in the family, the pieces of meat that come from
table on the plates, and rice, Scotch barley or oatmeal, there will be
some gallons of nutritious soup two or three times a week. The bits of
meat should be only warmed in the soup, and remain whole; the bones, &c.
boiled till they yield their nourishment. If the things are ready to put
in the boiler as soon as the meat be served, it will save lighting fire
and second cooking.

Turnips, carrots, leeks, potatoes, or any sort of vegetable that is at
hand, should be used.

Should the soup be poor of meat, the long boiling of the bones and
different vegetables, will afford better nourishment than the laborious
poor can obtain; especially as they are rarely tolerable cooks, and have
not fuel to do justice to what they buy. But in every family there is
some superfluity; and if it be prepared with cleanliness and care, the
benefit will be very great to the receiver, and the satisfaction no less
to the giver.

I found, in the time of scarcity, ten or fifteen gallons of soup, could
be dealt out weekly, at an expense not worth mentioning, though the
vegetables were bought. If in the villages about London, abounding with
opulent families, the quantity of ten gallons were made in ten
gentlemen’s houses, there would be a hundred gallons of wholesome
agreeable food given weekly for the supply of forty poor families, at
the rate of two gallons and a half each.

What a relief to the labouring husband, instead of bread and cheese, to
have a warm comfortable meal! To the sick, aged, and infant branches,
how important an advantage.

It very rarely happens, that servants object to seconding the kindness
of their superiors to the poor; but should the cook in any family think
the adoption of this plan too troublesome, a gratuity at the end of the
winter might repay her, if the love of her fellow creatures failed of
doing it, a hundred fold. Did she readily enter into it, she would never
wash away as useless the pease or grits of which soup or gruel had been
made; broken potatoes, the green heads of celery, the necks and feet of
fowls, and particularly the shanks of mutton, and various other
articles, which in preparing dinner for the family are thrown aside.

Fish affords great nourishment, and that not by the part eaten only, but
the bones, heads, and fins, which contain an isinglass. When the fish is
served, let the cook put by some of the water, and stew in it the above,
as likewise add the gravy that is in the dish, until she obtains all the
goodness. If to be eaten by itself, when it makes a delightful broth,
she should add a very small bit of onion, some pepper, and a little rice
flour rubbed down smooth with it.

But strained it makes a delicious improvement to the meat soup,
particularly for the sick; and when such are to be supplied, the milder
parts of the spare bones and meat should be made for them, with little,
if any of the liquor of the salt meats.

The fat should not be taken off the broth or soup, as the poor like it,
and are nourished by it.

_The following is an excellent Soup for the weakly._

Put two cowheels and a breast of mutton into a large pan, with four
ounces of rice, one onion, twenty Jamaica peppers, and twenty black, a
turnip, a carrot, and four gallons of water. Cover with brown paper, and
bake.

_Sago._

Put a teacupful of sago into a quart of water, and a bit of lemonpeel;
when thickened, grate some ginger, and add half a pint of raisinwine,
brown sugar, and two spoonfuls of Geneva. Boil all up together.

It is a most supporting thing for those whom disease has left very
feeble.

_Caudle for the Sick and Lying in._

Set three quarts of water on the fire, mix smooth as much oatmeal as
will thicken the whole with a pint of cold water; when boiling, pour the
latter in, and twenty Jamaica peppers in fine powder; boil to a good
middling thickness, then add sugar, half a pint of well fermented table
beer, and a glass of gin. Boil all.

This mess twice, and once or twice of broth, will be of incalculable
service.

There is not a better occasion for charitable commiseration than when a
person is sick. A bit of meat or pudding sent unexpectedly has often
been the means of recalling long lost appetite.

Nor are the indigent alone the grateful receivers; for in the highest
houses a real good sick-cook is rarely met with; and many who possess
all the goods of fortune, have attributed the first return of health to
some _kitchen physic_.

USEFUL DIRECTIONS TO GIVE TO SERVANTS.

_To give to boards a beautiful appearance._

After washing them very nicely clean with soda and warm water, and a
brush, wash them with a very large sponge and clean water. Both times
observe to leave no spot untouched, and clean straight up and down not
crossing from board to board; then dry with clean cloths, rubbing hard
up and down in the same way.

The floors should not be often wetted, but very thoroughly when done;
and once a week dry rubbed with hot sand, and a heavy brush, the right
way of the boards.

The sides of stairs or passages on which are carpets, or floorcloth,
should be washed with sponge instead of linen or flannel, and the edges
will not be soiled. Different sponges should be kept for the two above
uses; and those and the brushes should be well washed when done with,
and kept in dry places.

_Floorcloths._

Should be chosen that are painted on a fine cloth, that is well covered
with the colour, and the flowers on which do not rise much above the
ground, as they wear out first. The durability of the cloth will depend
much on these two particulars, but more especially on the time it has
been painted, and the goodness of the colours. If they have not been
allowed sufficient space for becoming thoroughly hardened, a very little
use will injure them; and as they are very expensive articles, care in
preserving them is necessary. It answers to keep them some time before
they are used, either hung up in a dry barn where they will have air, or
laid down in a spare room. When taken up for the winter, they should be
rolled round a carpet roller, and observe not to crack the paint by
turning the edges in too close.

Old carpets answer extremely well, painted and seasoned some months
before laid down. If for passages, the width must be directed when they
are sent to the manufactory, as they cut before painting.

_To clean Floorcloths._

Sweep, then wipe them with a flannel; and when all dust and spots are
removed, rub with a waxed flannel, and then with a dry plain one; but
use little wax, and rub only enough with the latter to give a little
smoothness, or it may endanger falling.

Washing now and then with milk after the above sweeping, and dry rubbing
them, give as beautiful a look, and they are less slippery.

_To take the black off the bright bars of polished Stoves in a few
minutes._

Rub them well with some of the following mixture on a bit of broadcloth;
when the dirt is removed, wipe them clean, and polish with glass, not
sandpaper.

_The mixture._

Boil slowly one pound of soft soap in two quarts of water to one. Of
this jelly take three or four spoonfuls, and mix to a consistence with
emery, No 3.

_To clean the back of the grate; the inner hearth; and of Castiron
Stoves, the fronts._

Boil about a quarter of a pound of the best black lead, with a pint of
small beer, and a bit of soap the size of a walnut. When that is melted,
dip a painter’s brush, and wet the grate, having first brushed off all
the soot and dust; then take a hard brush, and rub it till of a
beautiful brightness.

_Another way to clean Castiron, and black Hearths._

Mix black lead and whites of eggs beaten well together; dip a painter’s
brush, and wet all over, then rub it bright with a hard brush.

_To preserve Irons from rust._

Melt fresh _mutton suet_, smear over the iron with it, while hot; then
dust it well with unslacked lime pounded, and tied up in a muslin. Irons
so prepared will keep many months. Use no oil for them at any time,
except sallad oil; there being water in all other.

Fireirons should be kept wrapt in baize, in a dry place, when not used.

_To clean tin covers, and patent pewter Porterpots._

Get the finest whiting, which is only sold in large cakes, the small
being mixed with sand, mix a little of it powdered, with the least drop
of sweet oil, and rub well, and wipe clean; then dust some dry whiting
in a muslin bag over, and rub bright with dry leather. The last is to
prevent rust, which the cook must be careful to guard against by wiping
dry, and putting by the fire when they come from the parlour; for if but
once hung up without, the steam will rust the inside.

_To take rust out of Steel._

Cover the steel with sweet oil well rubbed on it, and in forty eight
hours use unslacked lime finely powdered, and rub until all the rust
disappears.

_To clean stone Stairs and Halls._

Boil a pound of pipe makers clay with a quart of water, a quart of small
beer, and put in a bit of stone blue. Wash with this mixture, and when
dry, rub the stones with flannel and a brush.

_To clear Paperhangings._

First blow off the dust with the bellows. Divide a white loaf of two
days old into eight parts. Take the crust into your hand, and beginning
at the top of the paper, wipe it downwards in the lightest manner with
the crumb. Do not cross or go upwards. The dirt of the paper and the
crumbs will fall together. Observe, you must not wipe above half a yard
at a stroke, and after doing all the upper, part, go round again,
beginning a little above where you left off. If you do not do it
extremely lightly, you will make the dirt adhere to the paper.

It will look like new if properly done.

_To clean Paint._

Never use a cloth, but take off the dust with a little longhaired brush,
after blowing off the loose parts with the bellows. With care, paint
will look well for a length of time. When soiled, dip a sponge or a bit
of flannel into soda and water, wash it off quickly, and dry
immediately, or the strength of the soda will eat off the colour.

When wainscot requires scouring, it should be done from the top
downwards, and the suds be prevented from running on the unclean part as
much as possible, or marks will be made which will appear after the
whole be finished. One person should dry with old linen as fast as the
other has scoured off the dirt and washed the soda off.

_To clean Lookingglasses._

Remove the fly stains, and other soil, by a damp rag; then polish with
woollen cloth and powder-blue.

_To preserve Gilding, and clean it._

It is not possible to prevent flies from staining the gilding without
covering it; before which, blow off the light dust, and pass a feather
or clean brush over it; then with strips of paper cover the frames of
your glasses, and do not remove it till the flies are gone.

Linen takes off the gilding, and deadens its brightness; it should
therefore never be used for wiping it.

Some means should be used to destroy the flies, as they injure furniture
of every kind, and the paper likewise. Bottles hung about with sugar and
vinegar, or beer, will attract them; or fly water put into the bottom of
a saucer.

_To clean Plate._

Boil an ounce of prepared hartshorn powder in a quart of water. While on
the fire, put into it as much plate as the vessel will hold; let it boil
a little, then take it out, drain it over the saucepan, and dry it
before the fire. Put in more, and serve the same, till you have done.
Then put into the water some clean linen rags till all be soaked up.
When dry, they will serve to clean the plate, and are the very best
things to clean the brass locks and fingerplates of doors. When the
plate is quite dry, it must be rubbed bright with leather.

This is a very nice mode.

_Note._ In many plate powders there is a mixture of quicksilver, which
is very injurious; and, among other disadvantages, it makes silver so
brittle, that from a fall it will break.

_To give a fine Colour to Mahogany._

Let the tables be washed perfectly clean with vinegar, having first
taken out any ink stains there may be with spirits of salt; but it must
be used with the greatest care, and only touch the part affected, and be
instantly washed off. Use the following liquid: into a pint of cold
drawn linseed oil, put four penny worth of alconet root, and two penny
worth of rose pink, in an earthen vessel; let it remain all night, then
stirring well, rub some of it all over the tables with a linen rag; when
it has lain some time, rub it bright with linen cloths.

Eating tables should be covered with mat, oilcloth, or baize, to prevent
staining, and be instantly rubbed when the dishes are taken off, while
still warm.

_To dust Carpets and Floors._

Sprinkle tea leaves on them, then sweep carefully. The former should not
be swept frequently with a whisk brush, as it wears them fast; but once
a week, and the other times with the leaves and a hair brush.

_To clean Carpets._

Take up the carpet, let it be well beaten, then laid down, and brushed
on both sides with a hand brush. Turn it the right side upwards, and
scour it with oxgall, and soap and water, very clean, and dry it with
linen cloths.

_To take Stains out of Marble._

Mix unslacked lime, in finest powder, with the stronger soap lye, pretty
thick; and instantly, with a painter’s brush, lay it on the whole of the
marble. In two months time wash it off perfectly clean; then have ready
a fine thick lather of soft soap, boiled in soft water; dip a brush in
it, and scour the marble with powder, not as common cleaning. This will,
by very good rubbing, give a beautiful polish. Clear off the soap, and
finish with a smooth hard brush till the end be effected.

_To clean Calico Furniture, when taken down for the Summer._

Shake off the loose dust, then lightly brush with a small longhaired
furniture brush; after which wipe it closely with clean flannels, and
rub it with dry bread.

If properly done, the curtains will look nearly as well as at first.

Fold in large parcels, and put carefully by.

While the furniture remains up, it should be preserved from the sun and
air as much as possible, which injure delicate colours; and the dust may
be blown off with bellows.

_To preserve Furs and Woollen from Moth._

Let the former be occasionally combed while in use, and the latter be
brushed and shaken. When not wanted, dry them first, let them be cool,
then mix among them bitter apples from the apothecary’s, in small muslin
bags, sewing them in several folds of linen, carefully turned in at the
edges.

INDEX.

ALDER wine, 243
white, very much like Frontiniac, 243

_Ale_, to brew, 236
, very fine Welsh, 236
to refine, 238

_Almond_ cheesecakes, 186
cream, 169
puddings, 142
, baked, 155
, small, 157

_Amber_ pudding, a very fine one, 144

_Anchovies_, to keep them when the liquor dries, 118
sauce, 108
essence of 112
to make sprats taste like, 117

_Apples_, to prepare them for puffs, 176
dried, 175
dumplings, or pudding, 151
fool, 172
jelly to serve to table, 176
, another, 176

_Apple_ jelly, for preserved apricots, or any sort of sweetmeats, 196
pie, 180
pudding, baked, 144
water, 254
to scald codlins, 177
to keep codlins for
several months, 189
stewed goldenpippins, 175
red in jelly, 175

_Apricots_, in brandy, 195
to dry in half, 196
green, to preserve, 197
to preserve in jelly, 196
apple jelly for this purpose, 196
cheese, 194
pudding, an excellent one, 154

_Arrowroot_ jelly, 260

_Asses_ milk, 262
, artificial, 262
, another, 262
, another, 263

_Bacon_, excellent, 69
the manner of curing Wiltshire, 64
fraise, 137

_Bamboo_, (English) to pickle, 120

_Barberries_, for tartlets, 201
drops, 202

_Barleywater_, 253
, common, 253

_Bean Pudding_, green, 154

_Bechamel_, 104

_Beef_, stewed rump of, 28
, stewed brisket, 29
, to salt red, which
is extremely good to eat fresh from the pickle, or to hang to dry, 30
, pressed, 31
, hunter’s, 31
, to dress the inside of a cold sirloin, 38
, fricassee of cold roast, 38
, to dress cold that has not been done enough, called beef olives, 38
, to dress, called Sanders, 39
, to dress, called Cecils, 39
, to salt for eating immediately, 27
alamode, 28
, broth, 250
, collared, 31

_Beef_, collop, 33
hashed, 40
heart, 42
minced, 39
olives, 38
palates, 34
cakes for sidedish of dressed meat, 34
potted, 35
, another way, 35
patties, or Podovies, 34
, Benton sauce for hot or cold roast, 107
round of, 40
, sauce Robart for rumps, 106
, a pickle for that will keep for years, 68
, tea, 250

_Beefsteaks_ and oyster sauce, 32
, sauce Robart for, 106
pie, 34
pudding, 33
pudding, baked, 34
, Staffordshire, 32
, Italian, 33

_Beer_, to refine, 238
(strong) to brew, 236
(table) excellent, 237

_Benton_ sauce, for hot or cold roast beef, 107
tea cakes, 220

_Birds_, a very economical way of potting, 78

_Biscuit_ cake, 222
, hard, 220

_Biscuit_, plain, and very crisp, 221
, of fruit, 204

_Black_ caps, 175
puddings, 65
another way, 66

_Blancmange_, or Blamange, 164

_Boards_, to give them a beautiful appearance, 269

_Bockings_, 182

_Boiling_ meat, observations on, 20, 21

_Brandy_ cream, 169
pudding, 155

_Bread_ cake, common, 217
pudding, boiled, 147
, another and richer, 147
puddings, little, 145
and butter pudding, 142
sauce, 110
brown pudding, 147
ice, 211
French, 229

_Brentford_ rolls, 227

BREWERY, HOME, 236 to 247

_Broth_, A quickmade, 252
, a clear one, that will keep long, 249
Others are under different names; as _Chicken_ broth, &c.

_Brown bread_ pudding, 147
ice, 211

_Browning_, to colour and flavour made dishes, 117

_Bubble and Squeak_, 42

_Bun_, a good plain one, 226
, richer ones, 226

_Burnt cream_, 170

_Butter_, to clarify for potted things, 78
, to melt, 107
, pudding, 148
with meat, 148
, orange, 131

_Buttermilk_, 233
, with bread or without, 263
, Dr. Boerhaave’s sweet, 263
, pudding, 155

_Cabbage_, (red) to pickle, 124
, to stew, 126

CAKES, 212 to 229
, observations on making and baking them, 212
, a very fine one, 215
, an excellent and less expensive one, 216
, a very good common one, 216
, a common one, 218
, little white, 219
, little short, 219
, flat that will keep long in the house good, 221
Many other cakes are under their different first names; as _Plum_
cake, _Tea_cakes, &c.

_Cakes_, colours for staining &c., 203
, icing for, 212

_Calf’s feet_ broth, 252
, another, 252
jelly, 165
, another sort, 166
_head_, to boil, 49
, hashed, 49
, mock turtle, 49
, a cheaper way, 50
, forcemeat as for turtle, at the Bush, Bristol, 50
, another forcemeat, for balls or patties, 51
, pie, 52
, fricasseed, 53
_liver_, broiled, 55
, roasted, 55

_Calico furniture_, to clean when taken down for the summer, 275

_Camp_ vinegar, 112

_Capers_, to keep, 118

_Carmel_ cover for sweetmeats, 206

_Carp_, boiled, 12
, stewed, 10
, an excellent sauce for, 106

_Carpets_, to dust, 274
, to clean, 275

_Carrots_, to stew, 127
, pudding, 153
, soup, 97

_Castiron_, to clean stoves of, 271
, another way, 271

_Catsup_, mushroom, 113
, another way, 113
, walnut of the finest sort, 113
, cockle, 114

_Caudle_, 255
, another, 255
, rice, 255
, cold, 256
, a flour, 261
, rice, 261
, to give away to poor families, 268

_Cauliflower_, in white sauce, 126

_Caveach_, 4

_Cecils_, 39

_Celery_, to stew, 19

_Cheese_, to pot, 230
, to roast, to come up after dinner, 231
, Cheese is also under different names; as _Cream_ cheese, _Apricot_
cheese, &c.

_Cheesecakes_, 183
, a plainer sort, 184
, another way, 184
, lemon, 184
, another, 185
orange, 185
, a very fine crust for them, when to be particularly nice, 139
, potatoe, 185
, almond, 186
, light paste for, 139

_Cherries_, in brandy, 195
, to dry
with sugar, 192
without sugar, 192
, to dry them the best way, 199
, jam, 190
, pie, 179
, (morella) to preserve, 209

_Chickens_, to pull, 80
broth, 250
curry, 81
, another, more quickly made, 82
, fricassee of, 79
panada, 250
pie, 80

_Chocolate_, to prepare, 258

_Clary_ wine, 244

_Cod_, crimp, 13
head and shoulders, 12
pie, 11
ragout, 13
sounds boiled, 13

_Cod_, curry of, 13

_Codlins_, to keep for several months, 189
, to scald, 177
tart, 179

_Coffee_, to make, 259
cream, much admired, 171
milk, 259

_Collops_, mutton, 72
, veal, dressed, quick, 44
, another way, 45
, veal, 45
of cold veal or chicken, 45
Scotch, 46

_Cornish_ pies, 89

_Cough_, draught for, 258

_Crab_, hot, 8

_Cracknuts_, 222

_Cracknels_, 223

_Cranberries_, different ways of dressing, 177
jelly, 178
and rice jelly, 178

_Crawfish_, soup, 101

_Cream_, to scald, 233
, imperial, 167
, a, 168
, Others are under the names of the different principal articles they
are made of; as _Almond_ cream, &c.
, a froth to sit on, which looks and eats well, 162
, ice, 210
_Cheese_, 234
, another, 234
, another sort, 235
, rush cheese, 235
, another way, 235

_Crust_, excellent short, 139
, another, 189
, a very fine one for orange cheesecakes or sweetmeats, when to be
particularly nice, 139
, rice piecrust, 150
, raised crust for custards, of fruit, 140
, for meat pies, or fowls, &c., 140
, for venison pasty, 141
, rice pasty, 141
, See also the article _Paste_.

_Cucumbers_, to stew, 125
, another way, 125
and onions sliced, to pickle, 122
, another way, 122
, young, 122

_Cullis_, or brown sauce, 104

_Curds_ and cream, 160

_Curd_, another way, 161
puddings or puffs, 156
pudding boiled, 156

_Currants_, to keep, 188
dumplings, or pudding, 151
and raspberry tart, 180
jelly, red or black, 193
, white, shrub, 247
water ice, 210
wine, 241

_Curry_, rice boiled to eat with, 136

_Custards_, cheap and excellent ones, 168
, richer, 168
Others are under the names of the different principal articles they
are made of; as _Lemon_ custards, &c.
, a froth to set on, which looks and eats well, 162
pudding, 152

_Cutlets_, Maintenon, 44
, another way, 44
, another way, 44

_Cider_, to refine, 238

DAIRY, 231 to 235

_Damsons_, to keep for winter pies, 189
another way, 189

_Damsons_, another, 190
cheese, 203
dumplings, or pudding, 151

_Davenport_ fowls, 80

_Devonshire_ junket, 161

_Drink_, a very agreeable one for the sick, 253
a refreshing one in a fever, 256
another, 256
another, 256
, a most pleasant, 256
, draught for a cough, 258

_Duck_, to boil, 83
to roast, 83
sauce for, 105
pie, 83

_Dutch_ pudding, or Souster, 144
rice pudding, 145

_Eel_, boiled, 2
broth, 3, 251
collared, 3
fried, 2
pie, 2
spitchcock, 2

_Eggs_, buttered, 109
to poach, 231
sauce, 109
wine, 257
little, for pies or turtles, 111

_Essence_, of anchovies, 211

FISH, 1 to 20
observations on dressing, 17
jelly to cover cold ones, 104
sauce without butter, 108
sauce à-la-craster, 111
a very fine one, 111

_Floating island_, 162
another way, 162

_Floorcloths_, directions respecting them, 269
to clean them, 270

_Floors_, to dust, 274

_Flummery_, 172
Dutch, 156
rice, 160

_Forcemeat_ for patties, balls, or stuffing, 132
Other forcemeat is under the name of dishes.

_Fowls_, boiled, 78
boiled with rice, 79
observations on roasting them, 22
roasted, 78
Davenport, 80
sauce for cold, 106
vingaret for cold, 107
sauce for wild, 105
, another, 105

_Fowls_, a very good sauce to hide the bad colour of, 109
forcemeat for pies of any kind, 81
fricassee of chickens, 79
another white sauce, more easily made, 71
collops of cold chicken, 45
to pot chicken with ham, 47

_Fraise_, 182

_French_ beans, to preserve to eat in the winter, 130
bread, 229
rolls, 227

_Fricandeau_, 54, 127

_Fritters_, 182
Spanish, 183
potatoe, 183

_Froth_, to set on cream, custard, or trifle, which looks and eats
well, 162

FRUITS TO KEEP, 186 to 211

_Furs_, to preserve from moth, 276

_George_ pudding, 153

_German_, 145

_Giblet_ pye, 85
soup, 93
stewed, 85

_Gilding_, to preserve and clean, 273

_Ginger_ drops, a good stomachic, 202
wine, excellent, 242
another, 242

_Gingerbread_, 225
another sort, 225
to make good without butter, 226

_Gloucester_ jelly, 261

_Goldenpippins_, stewed, 175

_Goose_, to roast, 84
green pie, 85

_Gooseberries_, to preserve, 186
another way, 187
another, 188
fool, 172
hops, 205
jam, for tarts, 200
another, 201
white, 201
pudding, baked, 154
vinegar, 116

_Grapes_, to preserve in brandy, 205

_Grates_, to clean the backs of, 271

_Gravy_, clear, 102
to draw that will keep a week, 102
a rich one, 103
veal, 104
soup, 95

_Green_, to stain jellies, ices, or cakes, 203

_Grouse_, 82
to pot them, 82

_Haddock_, 14
stuffing for, 16

_Hams_, to cure, 61
another way, 61
another way, 62
another way, that gives a higher flavour, 62
a method of giving a still higher flavour, 62
a pickle for them that will keep for years, 68
to dress, 63

_Hares_, 22
to prepare and dress, 90
to jug an old one, 91
broiled and hashed, 92
pie, 91
potted, 91
soup, 91, 99

_Harrico_, 70

_Harslet_, 67

_Hartshorn_ jelly, 167

_Heart_, beef, 42

_Hearths_, (the inner) to clean, 271
another way, 271

_Herrings_, baked, 8
broiled, 9
fried, 9
to smoke, 8
(red) to dress, 8

_Hessian_ soup and ragout, 35
the ragout, 36

_Hog’s cheeks_, to dry, 63
head, to make excellent meat of, 56
lard, 67
puddings, white, 66

_Hotch potch_, an excellent one, 74
another, 75

_Hunter’s_ beef, 81
pudding, 152

_Icing_, for tarts, 211
for cakes, 212

_Ice_ waters, 210
currant or raspberry, 210
brown bread, 211
to make the, 211
creams, 210
colours for staining them, 203

_Imperial_, 242
cream, 167

_India_ pickle, 118

_Irons_, to preserve them from rust, 271

_Jelly_ to cover cold fish, 103

Other _Jellies_ are under the names of the different principal articles
they are made of; as _Calf’s feet_ jelly, &c.
colours for staining, &c., 203

_Junket_, Devonshire, 161

_Kidney_, veal, 46
pudding, 151

_Kitchen_ pepper, 116

_Lamb_, fore quarter, 76
fry, 76
head and hinge, 76
leg and loin, 75
steaks, 72
steaks and cucumbers, 74

_Lamprey_, to stew, as at Worcester, 1

_Lard_, 67

_Leek_ soup, Scotch, 99

_Lemons_, to keep for puddings, &c., 186
to preserve in jelly, 207
cheesecakes, 184
another, 185
cream, yellow without cream, 163
white ditto, 164
custards, 159
drops, 203
honeycomb, 171
juice, to keep, 209
pickle, 112

_Lemon_, pudding, an excellent one, 143
sauce, 108
syrup, 247
water, 254

_Lemonade_, 254
to be made a day before wanted, 239
another way, 240

_Lent_ potatoes, 160

_Light_, or German puddings, 145

_Liver_ sauce, 109

_Lobsters_, buttered, 7
curry of them, 7
patties, 134
pie, 7
to pot them, 6
another way, as at Wood’s hotel, 6
sallad, 128
sauce, 107
another way, 107
stewed, as a very high relish, 7

_Lookingglasses_, to clean, 273

_Macaroons_, 224

_Mackerel_, boiled, 3
broiled, 3
collared, 3
potted, 3
pickled, 3
pickled, called caveach, 4

_Magnum bonum_ plums, 204

_Mahogany_, to give a fine colour to, 274

_Maids_, 17

_Marble_, to take stains out of, 275

_Marmalade_, apple, 177
orange, 198
quince, 199
transparent, 207
Marrow bones, 38

_Mawskins_, to cure, for rennet, 233

MEATS, 20 to 76
observations on dressing, 20
(roast) rice boiled to eat with, 136

_Melon_ mangoes, 121

_Milkporridge_, for the sick, 255
French, 255

_Milkpunch_, 246

_Millet_ pudding, 153

_Mincepie_, 134
without meat, 135
lemon, 135
egg, 135
patties resembling, 134

_Mock turtle_, 49
a cheaper way, 50
forcemeat as for turtle, at the Bush, Bristol, 50
another forcemeat for balls or patties, 51
another, 51
another, 52

_Moor_ game, to pot, 82

_Moor_ hen to roast, 83

_Morella_ cherries, to preserve, 209

_Muffins_, 227

_Mulled_ wine, 262

_Mushrooms_, to dry, 115
an excellent way to pickle, to preserve the flavour, 124
to stew, 127
powder, 114

_Mustard_, to make, 118
another way for immediate use, 118

_Mutton_, to choose, 22

_Mutton_, breast, 73
broth, 250
Scotch, 100
collops, 70
cutlets in the Portuguese way, 75
ham, 75
harrico, 70
haunch, 69
, an excellent hotch potch, 74
another, 75
legs, 69
, rolled loin, 74
necks, 69
pie, 71
and potatoe pie, 71
pudding, 71
sausages, 71
shoulder, boiled with oysters, 73
steaks, 72

_Mutton_, steaks of, or lamb and cucumbers, 74

_Nasturtions_, to pickle for capers, 123

_New college_ puddings, 146

_Norfolk_ punch, 247

_Oatmeal_ pudding, 144

_Omlet_, 136

_Onions_, pickled, 121
, to roast, 125
sauce, 109
, sliced with cucumbers, 122
, another way, 122
soup, 97
, to stew, 125

_Orangeade_, 254

_Orange_ butter, 131
cakes, 208
cheesecakes, 185
chips, 208
fool, 171
jelly, 167
juice, buttered, 173
pudding, 143
another, 143
another, 143
syrup, 247
tart, 179

_Oranges_, to butter, 173
to keep, for puddings, &c., 186
, to prepare to put into puddings, 195
preserved, to fill; a corner dish, 178

_Oranges_, to preserve in jelly, 207

_Orgeat_, 254
to make, 239
, another way, 239

_Oxcheek_ stewed, plain, 36
to dress it another way, 37
rump soup, 100

_Oxford_ dumplings, 147

_Oysters_, fried, to garnish boiled fish, 15
, to pickle, 15
another way, 15
, scalloped, 14
, to stew, 14
patties, or small pie, 14
, patties, 133
, sauce, 110
, sauce to beef steaks, 32

_Paint_, to clean, 272

_Panada_, made in five minutes, 252
another, 253
another, 253
chicken, 250

_Pancakes_, common, 181
fine ones, fried without butter or lard, 182
Irish, 181
of rice, 181

_Paperhangings_, to clean, 272

_Parsley_ pie, 88

_Parsnips_, to mash, 129

_Partridges_, to roast, 77
, potted, 77
, a very economical way, 78
, sauce for them cold, 106

_Pastes_, light, for tarts and cheesecakes, 139
, potatoe, 141
See also the article _Crust_.

PASTRY, 132 to 142

_Pasty_, venison, 25, 26
, an imitation of, 27
, of beef or mutton to eat as well as venison, 24

_Patties_, sweet, 134
, resembling mincepies, 134
, fried, 133
, Others are under the names of the articles they are made of.
, forcemeat for, 132

_Peaches_ in brandy, 195

_Pears_, stewed, 174
, baked, 174
, dried, 175

_Peas_ (old) soup, 94
, to stew, 127
(green), to keep, 129
another way, as practised in the emperor of Russia’s kitchen, 130

_Peas_, to stew, 124
, soup, 94

_Pepper_, kitchen, 116

_Peppermint_ drops, 203

_Perch_ and tench, 3

_Pettitoes_, 58

_Pewter_ (patent) porterpots, to clean, 271

_Pheasants_, to roast, 77

PICKLES, 118 to 124
, that will keep for years, for hams, tongues, or beef, 68
, are under the names of the articles pickled.

PIES, 88 to 90
, are under the names of the principal articles they are made of; as
_Apple_ pie, &c.

_Pig’s_ cheek for boiling, 58
collared head, 59
feet and ears, different ways of dressing, 60
fricassee, 60
harslet, 67
jelly of feet and ears, 60

_Pigeons_ broiled, 88
in jelly, 86
to pickle, 86
pie, 87
potted, 87
roast, 88
stewed, 85
, another way, 86

_Pike_, baked, 4
, stuffing for, 16

_Pippin_ pudding, 157
tarts, 177
, stewed golden, 175

_Plaice_, an excellent way of dressing a large one, 11

_Plate_, to clean, 273

_Plumcake_, 213
another, 214
very good common ones, 220
little ones, to keep long, 221

_Plum pudding_, common, 152

_Podovies_, or beef patties, 34

POOR PERSONS, HINTS RESPECTING THEIR RELIEF, 264 to 268

_Pork_, to roast a leg, 59
to boil a leg, 60
to pickle, 64
to salt for eating immediately, 27
jelly, Dr. Ratcluff’s restorative, 249
steaks, 61
loins and necks, roast, 67
rolled neck, 68

_Porker’s_ head, roasted, 58

_Portable soup_, a very useful thing, 101

_Potatoes_, to boil, 128
to broil, 129
to roast, 129
to fry, 129
to mash, 129
cheesecakes, 185
Lent, 160
pastry, 142
pasty, 88
pudding with meat, 150
pudding, an excellent plain one, 153
rolls, 228

_Potting_ birds, a very economical way of, 78
to clarify butter for potted things, 78

POULTRY, 76 to 88

_Pound cake_, good, 217

_Prawns_, curry of, 7
soup, 101

_Prune_ tart, 178

PUDDINGS, 142 to 159
observations on making them, 159
a quick made one, 158
in haste, 146
a cheap and not troublesome one, to give away to poor sick or young
families, 264
, Others are under the names of the principal articles they are made
of, or their first names; as _Bread_ pudding, _Light_ pudding, &c.

_Puff_ paste, rich, 138
less rich, 138
German, another way, 138
, to prepare apples for, 176
, of any sorts of fruit, 180
, excellent light ones, 157
, curd, 156

_Punch_, milk, 246
Norfolk, 247

_Queen_ cakes, 218
, another way, 218

_Quickmade_ pudding, 158

_Rabbits_, 22
, various ways, 92
, to make them taste much like a hare, 92
potted, 93
(roast) a very good sauce for them, 109

_Raised_ crust for custards or fruit, 140
, for meatpies or fowls, &c., 140
pies, to prepare meat or fowls for them, 90

_Raisinwine_, with cider, 245
, without cider, 245

_Ramakins_, 137

_Raspberry_ brandy, 246
cakes, 194
cream, 172
jam, 193
, another way, 194
jelly, for ices or creams, 194
vinegar, 240
vinegarwater, 254
water ice, 210
wine, 241
, another way, 241
and currant tart, 180

_Ratafia_, 246

_Red_, a beautiful one, to stain jellies, ices, or cakes, 203
herrings, to dress, 8

_Rennet_, to cure mawskins, for, 233

_Restorative_, a great one, 248
another, 248
another, 248
another most pleasant draught, 248

_Rhubarb_ tart, 180

_Rice_, savory, 136
boiled to eat with curry or roast meat, 130
buttered, 136
cake, 223
, another, 223
caudle, 261

_Rice_ caudle, for the sick, 225
flummery, 160
milk, 171
, ground rice milk, 260
piecrust, 150
pasty crust, 141
_pudding_, baked, 149
, another, for the family, 149
Dutch, 145
with fruit, 149
, plain, 149
, rich, 152
small, 148
ground, 159

_Roasting_ meat, observations on, 21
fowls, 22
hares and rabbits, 22

_Rolls_, excellent ones, 228
, Brentford, 227
, French, 227
, potatoe, 228

_Rusks_, 222

_Russian seed_ pudding, 159

_Sack_ cream, 162

_Saffron_ cakes, 228

_Sago_, to prepare, 260
to prepare to give away to poor families, 267
milk, 171, 260
pudding, 142

_Sallad_, French, 128
, lobster, 128

_Salmon_, to boil, 4
, no vinegar to be boiled with it, 18
to pickle, 5
to broil, 5
to pot, 5
to dry, 5

_Saloop_, 264

_Sanders_, 39

SAUCES, 104 to 111
robart, for rumps or steaks, 106
a very good sauce especially to hide the bad colour of fowls, 109
Other sauces are under the names of different dishes, or of the
principal articles the sauces are made of.

_Sausages_, mutton, 71
, pork, 64
, Spadbury’s Oxford, 65
, veal, 56
, an excellent sausage to eat cold, 65

_Scotch collops_, 46

_Seed cake_, a cheap one, 216
, another, 217

SERVANTS, USEFUL DIRECTIONS TO GIVE TO THEM, 269 to 276

_Shalot_ vinegar, 112

_Shank_ jelly, 251

_Shelford_ pudding, 155

_Shrewsbury cakes_, 219

_Shrimp_ pie excellent, 88
sauce, 108

_Shrub_, white currant, 247

SICK PERSONS, COOKERY FOR, 247 to 264

_Skate_, 16
crimp, 17

_Smelts_, to fry, 12

_Snow balls_, 151
cream, 169

_Soals_, boiled, 9
fried, 9
stewed, 10
in the Portuguese way, 10
stuffing for soals baked, 10
pie, another sort of stuffing, 11

_Sorrel_, to stew, for fricandeau and roast meat, 127
sauce, 54

SOUPS, 93 to 102
à-la-sap, 100
, a rich white one, 96
, a plainer white one, 97
, an excellent soup, 97
, a baked one, to give away to poor families, 265
, for the weakly, for the same purpose, 267
, Other soups are under the names of the principal articles they are
made of.

_Souster_, 144

_Spadbury’s_ Oxford sausages, 65

_Spinach_, to stew, 126
French way, 126
soup, 98

_Sprats_, 16
, baked, 8
, to make them taste like anchovies, 117

_Spongecake_, 224
another, without butter, 224

_Steak_ pudding, 151

_Steel_, to take rust out of, 272

STEWS, 124 to 127

_Stone_ stairs and halls, to clean, 272

_Stoves_, to take the black off the bright bars in a few minutes, 270
to clean the back of the grate, the inner hearth, and the front of
cast iron stoves, 271
another way, 271

_Strawberries_, to preserve them whole, 197
another way, 198

_Stuffing_ for pike, haddock, &c., 16
for soals baked
another sort, 11

_Stuffing_, forcemeat for, 132

_Sturgeon_, to dress fresh, 16
an excellent imitation of sturgeon, 19

_Sucking pig_, to scald, 57
, to roast, 57

_Suet_, to preserve it a twelve month, 40
pudding, 151
dumplings, 151

_Suffolk_ dumplings, 158

_Sugar_, to clarify, 191

_Supper_, small dishes for, 131, 132
, a pretty sweet supper dish, 169

SWEET DISHES, 159 to 186

_Sweetbreads_, 55
, ragout, 56

_Sweetmeats_, observations on, 190
, a very fine crust for them, when to be particularly nice, 139
, a carmel cover for sweetmeats, 206
, excellent sweetmeats for tarts, when fruit is plentiful, 193

_Syllabub_, London, 161
, Staffordshire, 161
, a very fine Somersetshire one, 162
, everlasting or solid, 163

_Table Beer_, excellent, to brew, 237

_Tansey_, 181

_Tapioca_ jelly, 260

_Tarts_, icing for them, 211
Tarts are under the names of the principal articles they are made of;
as _Codlin_ tarts, &c.

_Teacakes_, 219
, Benton, 220
, another sort, as biscuit, 220
, another sort, 220

_Teal_, to roast, 83

_Tench_, 3
broth, 251

_Thornback_, 16

_Tin covers_, to clean, 271

_Toast and water_, for the sick, 254

_Tongues_, to pickle for boiling, 41
another way, 41
, a pickle for them, that will keep for years, 68
, an excellent mode of doing them to eat cold, 42
, stewed, 42
, and udder, to roast, 40

_Trifle_, an excellent one, 170
, a froth to set on, which looks and eats well, 162

_Tripe_, 42

_Tunbridge cakes_, 225

_Turbot_, to boil, 1
pie, 11

_Turkey_, to boil, 70
an excellent sauce for it boiled, 106
to roast, 76
pulled, 77
patties, 77

_Turnip_ pie, 88
soup, 93

_Turtles_, little eggs for them, 111

_Udder_ and tongue, to roast, 40

_Veal_, breast of, 47
rolled breast, 48
broth, 259
very nourishing, 249
collops, 45
collops of cold, 45
fricandeau, 54
gravy, 104
knuckle, 43
leg, 43
neck, 47
olives, 55
patties, 54
, potted, _at bottom_, 46
, to pot, with ham, 47
sausages, 56
shoulder, 48

_Vegetables_, 128 to 131
, to boil them green, 131
soup, 98
, another, 98

_Venison_, to keep, 23
, to dress, 23
hashed, 27
haunch, neck, &c., 25
, stewed shoulder, 25
, to prepare for pasty, 25
pasty, 26
, crust for, 141
, an imitation of venison pasty, 27
to make a pasty of beef or mutton, to eat as well as venison, 24

_Verder_, or milk punch, 246

_Vinegar_, camp, 112
gooseberry, 116
raspberry, 240
shalot, 112
sugar, 115
wine, 116

_Vingaret_, for cold fowl or meat, 107

_Wafers_, 224

_Walnuts_, to pickle, 123

_Water_ cakes, 223

_Whey_, 257

_Whey_, white wine for the sick, 257
vinegar and lemon, 257

_White_, to stain jellies, ices, or cakes, 203
, hogs puddings, 66
sauce, 104

_Widgeon_, to roast, 83

_Wine_, to refine, 238
roll, 170
, mulled, 262
a rich and pleasant, 244
Several sorts of made wine are under the different names; as
_Currant_ wine, &c.

_Yeast_, to make, 229
another way, 229
, to preserve, 230
or Suffolk dumplings, 158

_Yellow_, to stain jellies, ices or cakes, 203

_Yorkshire_ cake, 228
pudding, 158

THE END.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

_Just published, and for sale by W. ANDREWS, No. 1, Cornhill_, Boston,

JOHNSON’S DICTIONARY

OF THE

_ENGLISH LANGUAGE, IN MINIATURE_.

To which are added, an alphabetical account of the

HEATHEN DEITIES,

AND A

COPIOUS CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF

_Remarkable Events, Discoveries, and Inventions_.

_By the Rev._ JOSEPH HAMILTON, M. A.

_SECOND AMERICAN EDITION._

TO THE

_ENGLISH EDITION_.

The rapid sale of the thirteen former Editions of this Dictionary, has
induced the Editor to comply with the desires of the public, in
preparing another impression for the press. To copy the best examples is
not only the necessary resource of the writers of the present age, but
it exhibits, at the same time, a proof of their modesty and discernment.
This remark extends to authors in almost every department of science and
morals: but it is peculiarly applicable to the Editor of a Dictionary.
If a word has been once explained with accuracy, and its various
meanings discriminated with critical acumen, nothing remains for a
succeeding writer, but to collect and arrange the labours of his
predecessors, in a manner which coincides with his own particular plan.
Such is the use which has been made in the present work of the laborious
and celebrated compilation of Dr. JOHNSON, which is the most perfect
model in its kind. And if this task has been performed with only common
industry and care, it will follow that this small volume contains in
substance the quintessence of lexicography, and is adapted for every
purpose as a book of reference. It has also this superior advantage,
that the more obsolete excrescences of JOHNSON, and other eminent
lexicographers, are here exchanged for many additional scientific and
literary terms not current in their time. In fact, no pains have been
spared to render this work as complete as its limits would admit.

An epitome of the Heathen Mythology follows the Dictionary, more copious
and correct than has hitherto appeared in any similar production; and
the Chronology annexed exhibits the general outlines of ancient and
modern history.

J. H.

HEMEL HEMSTED,
June 1, 1799.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

1. P. 72, changed “vege-” to “vegetables.”
2. P. 103, changed “suf-” to “suffer”.
3. Silently corrected obvious typographical errors and variations in
spelling.
4. Retained archaic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings as printed.
5. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.

*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "New system of domestic cookery,: formed upon principles of economy, and adapted to the use of private families" ***

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