| By Author | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Title | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Language |
|
Download this book: [ ASCII ] Look for this book on Amazon Tweet |
Title: The gunsmith's manual : A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade
Author: Harrison, Wm. B., Stelle, J. P.
Language: English
As this book started as an ASCII text book there are no pictures available.
*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The gunsmith's manual : A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade" ***
THE
GUNSMITH’S MANUAL;
A COMPLETE HANDBOOK
FOR THE
AMERICAN GUNSMITH,
BEING A
PRACTICAL GUIDE TO ALL BRANCHES
OF THE TRADE.
By J. P. STELLE and WM. B. HARRISON.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883,
By JESSE HANEY & CO.,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
INDEX.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.
HISTORY OF THE GUN 9
Discovery of Gunpowder 9
The First Fire Arms 9
Earliest Hand Guns 10
Prejudice Against Fire Arms 10
The First Rifle 11
The Arquebus 11
The Match Lock 12
Musket, Petronel 13
The Wheel Lock 13
The Pistol 14
The Snaphaunce 14
The Flint Lock 15
Important Improvements 15
Advance of the Rifle 16
The Percussion Lock 16
The Breech Loader 18
CHAPTER II.
HOW GUNS ARE MADE 22
Gunsmith, Gunmaker 22
Gun Barrels, Best Materials for 23
On Making Gun Barrels 24
Finishing and Proving 25
Action, Stock and Final Finish 26
On Making the Rifle 27
Plain Steel Barrel Guns 27
CHAPTER III.
GUNS NOW IN USE 29
Gun Defined 29
The Old Flint Lock Gun 29
The Percussion Lock Gun 31
On the Muzzle Loaders 33
The Breech Loaders 34
Variety of Breech Loaders 36
CHAPTER IV.
PISTOLS NOW IN USE 37
Old Style Pistols 37
The Derringer 38
The Pepper Box 38
Old Colt’s Revolver 38
Sharp’s Four-shooter 39
The Breech Loading Cartridge Pistols 39
CHAPTER V.
ON GENERAL GUNSMITHING 41
The Gunsmith and his Trade 41
Fitting up a Shop 41
CHAPTER VI.
TAKING APART, CLEANING AND PUTTING GUNS TOGETHER 43
To Take the Gun Apart 43
To Clean the Gun When Apart 44
To Put the Gun Together 45
CHAPTER VII.
TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, THEIR COST, ETC. 47
The Alcohol Lamp 47
The Alcohol Lamp, Self-blowing 47
Anvil 48
Barrel Planes 48
Bevel 49
Beveling Clamp 49
Blacksmith’s Tongs 50
Blow Pipe 50
Breeching Taps 51
Calipers and Dividers 51
Chisels 51
Cutting Pliers 51
Drill Stock 51
Tile Cord 52
Tilting Square 52
Floats 52
Forge 53
Glue Pot 53
Gouges 53
Grind Stone 54
Hack Saw 54
Hammers 54
Handles 55
Hand Shears 55
Hand Vice 55
Iron Clamps 55
Mainspring Vise 56
Marking Gauge 57
Screw-cutting Tools 57
Screw Wrench 57
Soldering Copper 57
Screw-Drivers 57
Pliers 58
Wing Dividers 58
CHAPTER VIII.
TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM 59
The Alcohol Lamp 59
A Self-blowing Lamp 61
Breech Wrenches 63
The Bit Stock 64
Bottoming Tools 65
Chequering Tools 66
Nipple Wrenches 67
Portable Forge 67
Vice Appendages 69
Shanks of Tools 72
CHAPTER IX.
THE WORK BENCH 74
Material for the Work Bench 74
How to Make the Work Bench 75
Putting the Vise in Place 76
Place for Drawer 76
The Gun Brace 76
How to Deaden the Noise of Hammering 77
CHAPTER X.
ON WORKING IN IRON 79
Hand Forging 79
Welding 79
Hardening Iron by Hammering 80
Case-hardening 81
A Good Way to Case-harden 82
Material for Case-hardening 84
Another Way to Case-harden 85
Another Formula for Case-hardening 86
Still Another Formula 87
To Chill Cast Iron 87
Another Mode 87
To Soften Wrought Iron 87
Alloy for Filling Holes in Iron 87
To Harden Iron for Polishing 88
CHAPTER XI.
ON WORKING IN STEEL 89
Hand Forging Steel 89
Welding Steel 89
Tempering 91
To Restore Burnt Steel 93
Annealing Steel 94
To Blue Steel 94
To Remove Blue Color From Steel 94
Tempering Knife Blades 95
The Lead Bath for Tempering 96
Test for Good Steel 97
Etching on Steel 97
CHAPTER XII.
ON WORKING IN SILVER, COPPER AND BRASS 99
To Forge Silver 99
To Polish Silver 99
Light Plate for Copper or Brass 99
To Clean Silver 100
To Work Copper 100
To Work Brass 101
To Cast Brass 101
To Brass Iron 102
To Clean Brass 102
To Solder Brass 102
CHAPTER XIII.
ON WORKING IN WOOD 104
The Woods Most in Use 104
Wood for Gun Stocks 105
CHAPTER XIV.
ON GUN STOCKS 108
Form of Gun Stocks 108
Dimensions for Single Gun 111
Dimensions for Double Gun 111
Laying Out Gun Stocks 111
How to Stock a Gun 114
The First Operation in Stocking 114
Setting in the Barrels 115
Measure for the Stock 116
The Butt 116
Setting in the Locks 116
Setting in the Trigger Plate 117
Setting in the Triggers 117
Secure Fastenings 118
Fitting Bolt Loops 118
Hints for Finishing 119
Fitting the Break-off 119
To Let in Escutcheons 120
How to Cast Tips on Fore End of Stock 120
Chequering 122
Coloring Gun Stocks 122
To Stain a Maple Stock 123
Another Method 123
To Color a Maple Stock Brown 123
To Color a Reddish Brown 123
To Color Black 124
Rosewood Stain 124
Black Walnut Stain 124
Mahogany Stain 125
Cherry Stain 125
Oil Finish for Gun Stocks 125
Varnishing and Finishing 126
The Varnish for Gun Stocks 127
The Varnish Can 128
CHAPTER XV.
ON GUN BARRELS 129
Long and Short Barrels 129
Proof of Barrels 131
Proof Marks on Barrels 133
Gauge of Guns 135
Bursting of Barrels 138
To Prevent Barrels from Rusting 138
Protection from Rust 138
CHAPTER XVI.
ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS 140
Boring Gun Barrels 140
How to Make Cutters for Boring 141
Quick Boring Gun Barrels 141
Proving the Size During Boring 142
Draw Boring 142
Choke Boring 143
Choke Dressing 144
Barrels Most Suitable for Choke Boring 145
Freeing Gun Barrels 145
Another Method 146
Finishing Muzzles of Gun Barrels 147
Old Method of Straightening Barrels 148
The New Method 148
Another Method 153
Fitting Barrels Together 153
Joining Barrels Together 156
Soldering Barrels Together 157
Why Not Brase Barrels 158
Percussioning 159
Finishing Nipple Seat 161
The Vent in Percussion Guns 162
The Patent Breech 163
Form of the Chamber or Cup 164
CHAPTER XVII.
TOOLS FOR BREECHING GUNS 165
Breeching Reamers 165
Breeching Taps 166
Breech Pin Formers 169
CHAPTER XVIII.
TOOLS FOR CHAMBERING BREECH LOADING BARRELS 170
CHAPTER XIX.
ON GUN RIBS 173
How to Straighten a Rib 173
How to Fit a Rib 174
How to Fit a Rib to an Octagon Barrel 174
How to Solder on a Rib 174
How to Re-solder Ribs 176
Height of Ribs 178
CHAPTER XX.
ON THIMBLES 180
How to Make Thimbles 180
How to Put Thimbles on Barrels 181
CHAPTER XXI.
ON RIFLING GUNS 183
Importance of Rifling 183
U. S. Rifling Machines 184
Old Fashioned Rifling Machines 186
Gain Twist Rifling Machines 188
Re-rifling 188
CHAPTER XXII.
ON GUN LOCKS 190
Quality of Locks 190
The Back Action Lock 191
The Bar Lock 191
Side Action Lock 192
The Wesley Bar Lock 193
The Central Lock 193
Cleaning Locks, etc. 194
How to Take Down a Lock 195
To Clean and Oil the Lock 196
How to Put up a Lock 197
CHAPTER XXIII.
ON FITTING GUN HAMMERS 199
To Fit a Hammer on a Tumbler 199
The Drift for Squaring the Hole 200
A Tool for Fitting Hammers 202
CHAPTER XXIV.
ON NIPPLES OR CONES 205
Forms of Nipples 205
Nipples for Breech Loading Arms 206
Nipples with Flat Tops 206
The American Musket Nipple 207
Nipples Used in Sporting Guns 208
Preparing Nipples for Guns 208
Remedy for Bad Nipples 209
Pistol Nipples 209
Plugs for Nipples 209
CHAPTER XXV.
ON SPRINGS 212
Main Springs 212
Sear Springs 212
How to Forge Main Springs 213
How to Temper Main Springs 214
Cheap Springs for Revolvers 215
Coiling Wire for Springs, etc. 216
CHAPTER XXVI.
ON RODS 220
How to Make Ram Rods 220
How to Make Wiping Rods 222
CHAPTER XXVII.
ON BULLET MOULDS 224
Joints for Bullet Moulds 224
How to Make a Ball Cherry 227
Tempering Ball Cherries 232
CHAPTER XXVIII.
SCREW MAKING TOOLS 233
How to Make Screw Tools 233
How to Make Small Taps 235
CHAPTER XXIX.
NOMENCLATURE 238
Nomenclature of the Gun Stock 238
Nomenclature of the Gun Lock 239
Nomenclature of the Hammer 240
Nomenclature of the Lock Plate 240
Nomenclature of the Tumbler 241
Nomenclature of the Bridle 241
Nomenclature of the Main Spring 241
Nomenclature of the Sear 241
Nomenclature of the Sear Spring 241
Nomenclature of the Swivel 242
Nomenclature of the Breech Pin 242
Nomenclature of the Screws 242
CHAPTER XXX.
ON BROWNING 243
Objects of Browning 243
Preparatory Process 243
The Process of Browning 245
Browning Damascus Barrels 245
Browning Belgian Damascus Barrels 245
Browning Inferior Barrels 246
Plain Welded Barrels Made to Resemble Twist 247
Smoke Staining 247
CHAPTER XXXI.
RECIPES FOR BROWNING 249
Thirteen Recipes for Plain Barrels 249
Four Recipes for Twist Barrels 252
To Blue Gun Barrels 252
Brown Tint for Iron or Steel 253
Transparent Blue for Iron or Steel 253
Varnish for Browned Barrels, Three Recipes 253
Finish for Browned Barrels 254
To Remove Old Browning 254
CHAPTER XXXII.
MISCELLANEOUS 255
Shellac and Its Uses 255
How to Make Shellac Varnish 255
How to Conceal Bad Places in Wood 256
Another Method 256
Emery Cloth and Emery Paper 256
Uses of the Alcohol Lamp 257
How to Make Small Springs 257
How to Make Small Drills 258
Advantages of the Alcohol Lamp 258
The Soldering Copper 258
How to Heat the Copper 258
How to Tin the Copper 259
To Prevent Gun Barrels from Glimmering 259
Repairing Shot Chargers 260
Broken Plunger Nipples 261
How to Remove Rusted Screws, Nipples, etc. 261
Patent Breech, Bursted 263
Broken Tumblers 264
Describing Lines on Bright Surfaces 264
CHAPTER XXXIII.
ON POWDER AND SHOT 267
Comparative Sizes of Shot 270
Soft Shot Pellets to Ounce 269
Chilled Shot Pellets to Ounce 270
Comparative Sizes of Balls 272
Colt’s Pistol Sizes 272
Comparative Sizes of Gunpowder 273
To Select Buck Shot 267
Weighing Bullets, Powder, etc. 267
CHAPTER XXXIV.
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 274
Soft Soldering 274
Good Soft Solder 274
Soldering Fluid 275
Brazing 275
To Brase Lugs on Barrels 275
Hard Soldering 275
Hard Solders, Three Formulas 276
Alloy for Adhering to Iron or Steel 276
Gun Oil 276
Gunsmiths’ Glue 277
CHAPTER XXXV.
ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS 278
The Muzzle Loading Shot Gun 279
The Muzzle Loading Rifle 279
The Breech Loading Shot Gun 283
The Breech Loading Rifle 289
CHAPTER XXXVI.
ON USING THE RIFLE 292
The Old Kentucky Rifle 292
General Directions 294
Off-Hand Shooting 296
Rest Shooting 299
CHAPTER XXXVII.
ON USING THE SHOT GUN 302
Born Shooters 302
How to Shoot 304
Brewster on the Use of Two Eyes 306
Dougall’s Reasoning 307
Gloan on Taking Aim 310
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
ON USING THE PISTOL 313
Natural Talent 313
Taking Aim 314
Cane Aiming 315
The Best Pistols to Use 316
CHAPTER XXXIX.
VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS USED BY GUN MAKERS 318
CHAPTER XL.
VOCABULARY OF CHEMICALS AND SUBSTANCES USED IN
VARNISHES, ETC. 334
CHAPTER XLI.
CALIBRES OF GUNS, RIFLING, TWIST OF RIFLING, ETC. 342
European Guns 342
American Guns 343
Pistols 344
CHAPTER XLII.
DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING GUNS,
RIFLES AND PISTOLS 346
Rifles 346
The Ballard Rifle 346
The Burgess System 346
Burnside’s Rifle 347
The Evans Rifle 348
Hotchkiss Repeater 349
Howard’s “Thunderbolt” 350
The Kennedy Magazine Rifle 350
Martin Repeating Rifle 351
The Maynard Rifle 351
Peabody Martini Rifle 353
The Phœnix 354
The Remington System 355
Remington Magazine Gun (Keene’s Patent) 357
Remington No. 3 (Hepburn’s Patent) 358
Sharp’s Rifle 358
United States Muzzle-Loading Rifle and Musket 360
Springfield Breech-Loading Rifle 361
Whitney Breech-Loading Gun 362
Whitney New System Breech-Loading Gun 364
Winchester Magazine Gun 365
Billings’ Breech-Loading Shot Gun 366
Fox Breech Loading Shot Gun 367
Lefever Hammerless Gun 368
Parker Double-Barreled Breech-Loading Shot Gun 369
Remington Double-Barreled Breech-Loading Shot Gun 369
Roper Four-Shooting Shot Gun and Rifle 370
THE GUNSMITH’S MANUAL.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORY OF THE GUN.
_Discovery of Gunpowder._—No authentic records have been left to show
when or by whom was discovered the wonderful properties of the chemical
compound now known as gunpowder; nor have we any information concerning
the uses to which it was originally applied. There is little probability
that it was at once employed as an agent in fire-arms; indeed, we have
pretty strong evidence to show that it was not, for Roger Bacon refers to
it in his famous treatise, _De Nullitate Magiæ_, published A. D., 1216,
while fire-arms are mentioned by no writer as having been known earlier
than about 1338.
_The First Fire-Arms._—The first fire-arms, or guns, as we now call them,
are said to have been rude cannon, formed by banding together flat iron
bars, something on the plan of our wooden casks or barrels of to-day.
These guns were fired with a “slow match,” the gunners retiring to a safe
distance while the match was burning to the priming. Their earliest use
was as engines of war. The writers of ancient history tell us that they
were so employed by the Moors at the noted siege of Algesiras, Spain, in
1341, and at the battle of Calais, in 1346. At the latter battle, Edward
III is credited with having had four pieces, which made him victorious.
_Earliest Hand-Guns._—It is claimed by Spanish historians that to Spain
belongs the honor of having been the first power to furnish her soldiers
with fire-arms so small that they could be transported by a single
person. They were unwieldy affairs at the beginning, however; really
small cannon lashed upon wooden scantlings. The soldier could not fire
his piece off-hand, but was forced to carry a “rest” with him wherever
he went. Being ready to discharge his arm he balanced it upon the rest,
steadied it by holding the scantling under his arm, and then “touched
it off” with a live coal of fire, while he sighted along the barrel to
take aim at his object. What happened immediately after the coal came in
contact with the powder the historian saith not, but a modern writer,
who has been examining one of these old guns in a museum, jumps to the
conclusion that the soldier, with the scantling under his arm, must
have been launched suddenly into an impressive dream of first-class
earthquakes, or something else “like unto the combined kicking of about
fifty mules.”
_Prejudice Against Fire-Arms._—For about two centuries after the
invention of hand fire-arms they were so inefficient that the cross-bow,
then in general use, was able to quite successfully hold its own against
them. It was not until 1596 that Queen Elizabeth, by a proclamation,
directed that cross and other bows used in the army should be discarded
entirely in favor of muskets. And thereat there arose much murmuring
of dissatisfaction throughout the English Empire, according to Michael
Montaigne, a most prominent man of his time, who narrates the fact, and
adds: “Except the noise in our ears, to which we will be henceforth
accustomed, I think the fire-arm is one of very little effect, and I hope
that we shall one day give up its use.” Could he return to earth at this
age, and see the wonderful fire arms that have developed from the humble
beginning of which he was then treating, he would speedily lose his hope
to the effect that one day its use would be entirely given up.
_The First Rifle._—The first rifle is said to have been made about the
close of the fifteenth century, by one Gaspard Zollner, of Vienna. It was
a simple barrel with straight grooves; the only object of the grooves
being to prevent its becoming so “dirty” from continued use, as did the
smooth-bore. Spiral grooving does not seem to have been thought of until
many years later.
_The Arquebus._—The earliest noted improvement in the hand-gun, making
it lighter and giving it a longer barrel, was called the arquebus; but
even this was so heavy that a “rest” was necessary while discharging it.
This rest was a single staff armed with a steel point which went into the
ground like the Jacob-staff of a surveyor, but which fitted it for use
as a pike when not employed in connection with the gun. It was called the
_schweine feder_, which rendered into English means the “hog’s bristle.”
The arquebus was a regular “match-gun;” that is, it had a “pan” or
receptacle at the side of the breech for the priming powder, which
communicated with the interior of the barrel by a small perforation
called the “touch-hole.” The priming was lighted by a match, which
consisted of a coil of small rope saturated with some kind of chemical,
which caused it to burn readily and hold fire for a long time. The
soldier using the arquebus carried the match in his hand and kept it
burning during an action. The manner of setting off the piece was about
the same as with the live coal—he secured his sight and then touched the
priming with his lighted match.
_The Match Lock._—Later, the serpent-match was invented and looked upon
as a startling improvement. It was a simple S-shaped piece of iron or
wire hinged to the side of the gun just back of the priming pan. The
upper end was provided with a beak which gripped the lighted fuse, while
the lower end played the part of a modern trigger. With this contrivance
the gunner had only to take sight and then pull with his finger upon
the lower end of the S until the lighted fuse was brought down into the
priming. After many years of use an improvement was made upon the S,
consisting of a small spring which threw it back into an erect position
so soon as the pressure upon the lower end was discontinued.
The powder employed with the old arquebus was of two grades as to size of
grain; a coarse grade for the charge, and a fine grade for the priming.
Its chemical composition does not seem to have differed materially from
that of our modern gunpowder.
The serpent match, so called because the upper end holding the fuse was
often shaped to represent the head of a serpent, was the first actual
step taken towards a gun-lock. It was thought to be perfection itself,
especially after the returning spring had been added, and so strong a
hold did it take upon all nations that only a few years has elapsed since
it was wholly abandoned in some of the most benighted regions, as in
China, for instance, where it is known to have been used in the army at a
date as late as 1860.
_Musket-Petronel._—Next in order to the arquebus came the musket, a
Spanish invention. It was heavier than its predecessor, and carried a
charge twice as large. Almost simultaneously with this appeared the first
cavalry fire-arm, which was called the petronel. It was shorter than the
musket and larger in bore; the horseman rested its breech against his
breast and communicated the fire by means of the serpent match.
_The Wheel-Lock._—In 1517 the Germans astonished the world by inventing
and bringing into use the “wheel-lock,” which was a regular gun-lock,
entirely doing away with the lighted match. It consisted of a small disk
of steel fluted on the edges, set in close contact with the priming pan,
and made to revolve with great rapidity by means of a spiral spring
arranged somewhat on the plan of the spring of a spring-clock. In contact
with its fluted edge, and held there by a spring, was arranged a sharp
flint; hence when the steel disk was set in motion a train of sparks
was thrown off as it revolved over the edge of flint. These sparks fell
into the priming pan and ignited the powder, discharging the piece. The
spring was wound up like winding a clock or watch, and a slight pressure
upon a trigger under the breech set the wheel in motion. The pressure was
continued until the gun was discharged, when it was discontinued, the
result of which was an immediate stopping of the wheel. A single winding
would usually discharge the gun about half a dozen times.
_The Pistol._—The wheel-lock went into quite general use, finally leading
to the invention of the pistol, about 1544. The first pistols were single
barrel, and very short. The stock was heavy, and the breech or handle,
instead of leaving the barrel with a curve, as in later days, dropped at
right angles to the iron. It was put into use as a cavalry arm, first by
the Germans and afterwards by the people of many other nations. In 1607
the German horse soldiers were all regularly armed with double-barrel
wheel-lock pistols.
_The Snaphaunce._—After the date just mentioned modifications and
improvements in fire-arms were rapid and constant. The wheel-lock was
finally followed by the “snaphaunce,” which was a straight piece of
furrowed steel brought to bear upon the flint instead of the disk. It
was more simple in its construction than the wheel-lock, and hence less
liable to get out of order. Of course it worked in obedience to the
action of a spring, but the spring was not a spiral—it was more on the
plan of the mainspring in modern gun-locks.
_The Flint-Lock._—About 1630 Spain again popped to the surface; this
time with the regular flint-lock, embracing precisely the same mechanism
as the flint-lock used in our Revolutionary war, and familiar to very
many of the older people of the present day. Its advantages over the
wheel-lock and the snaphaunce were so marked that France at once adopted
it for use in her armies, but England held back, contending that the
wheel-lock was the better invention, till 1690, when she gave up the
contest, and adopted the flint-lock.
_Important Improvements._—Rapidly following the invention of the
flint-lock came important improvements in the musket. The stock was
lightened and put into better shape, and sights were invented and placed
upon the barrels. Up to this time the soldier had been forced to carry
his ammunition in bulk, but now cartridges were brought into use, carried
in convenient and neatly made cartridge-boxes. Steel bayonets to set
over the muzzle of the gun also appeared, the first in 1693. Prior to
this time a rude kind of bayonet had been more or less in use—it was a
sort of dagger set into a wooden handle, the latter to be thrust into
the muzzle of the gun in case of a hand-to-hand charge, where loading
and firing could not be attended to. Iron ramrods took the place of the
inconvenient and unsafe wooden ones formerly in use, which was regarded
as a long stride in the efficiency of the musket. With the old wooden
ramrods, clumsy and easily broken, the loading of a musket was a slow and
laborious task, but the iron rod secured comparative ease and rapidity.
_Advance of the Rifle._—With the general improvement of fire-arms the
rifle had worked gradually into favor and use. Its main drawback, as an
army gun, laid in the difficulty experienced in loading it. But it was
admirably adapted to the wants of the people settling the wilds of the
American continent, hence they adopted it almost to the entire exclusion
of any other kind of fire-arm. In the armies its use was limited to
a few corps of sharp-shooters, usually on the frontiers where it was
advantageous to harass the enemy by picking off his men at long range.
England seems to have been rather prejudiced against the rifle until
after our war with her for Independence. In that war she appears to
have had so striking a demonstration of its efficiency that she soon
after adopted it as a military arm; and other nations, having faith in
her superior judgment, finally followed her example, bringing the rifle
rapidly upward in rank as an effectual implement of war.
_The Percussion Lock._—In 1807 a Scotch clergyman by the name of
Alexander Forsyth, invented a new method of igniting the charge in
fire-arms, which, after various changes and improvements, settled down
to what is now known as the percussion cap. The percussion lock was a
simultaneous invention, of course; though it did not differ materially,
in point of construction, from the old flint-lock already in use. The
main difference consisted in the substitution of a cylinder and tube for
the priming pan and frizzen, and a hammer for the cock.
A strong current of prejudice set at once against the percussion lock,
though nobody could tell why. All declared it would not do, but none
attempted to give a reason for the faith that was in them. As a result
the new invention was pretty effectually held in the background until
1834, when its opponents accepted a challenge for a public test of its
merits against those of the flint-lock. The test extended to 6,000
rounds. In the course of these the percussion lock (afterwards more
commonly known as the cap-lock), gave but six miss-fires, while the
flint-lock scored nine hundred and twenty-two misses.
This astounding defeat at once sealed the fate of the flint-lock; still
it was a long time before the prejudice existing against the other could
be entirely removed. Even as far down as the date of our Mexican war,
General Scott flatly objected to its use in his army, and had his men
armed with the flint-lock, although there were then in our arsenals
percussion-lock muskets enough to have armed all his forces more than
twice over.
But facts are such stubborn things that even the strongest prejudice must
give way to them sooner or later. So it proved in this instance; one by
one the manufacturers of flint-lock fire-arms adopted the improvements
resulting from the discoveries of the Scotch clergyman, until finally no
more flint-locks were made, and the percussion lock was in undisputed
possession of the field.
_The Breech-Loader._—When the percussion-lock had been fully adopted
by the public, and all the “latest improvements” had been added to
it, people thought that the fire-arm had attained to such a degree of
perfection as to preclude any further change in the future; but how
mistaken! The fate of the percussion-lock is now as much sealed as was
that of the flint-lock at the test-trial of 1834. It is going the way
of all its predecessors, and its entire extinction is only a matter of
time. The breech-loader, with charge and ignition combined in the same
cartridge, is rapidly taking its place, and, until some new and wonderful
discovery comes to the surface, must, undoubtedly, stand paramount as the
gun of the future.
While springing into general favor at one leap, as it were, the
breech-loader is no new and sudden appearance. In truth it is of great
antiquity. In the Tower of London, the Woolwich Museum, and in the
Museum of Paris, may be seen hundreds of breech-loaders that were made
centuries ago. Of course they were not made to use the percussion
cartridge peculiar to many such guns of modern make, nevertheless they
were veritable breech-loaders, and the real suggestors, no doubt, of the
modern arm of that character.
In the Museum of Artillery, at Woolwich, there is a breech-loading
pierrier, or paterera, of the time of Edward IV. (1471). It consists of
a directing barrel, terminating in a square bar or frame of iron, and a
separate loading chamber, with handle, which was fastened in its place
for firing by an iron wedge. There are also found in the museums many
breech-loading pistols, that were evidently in use about cotemporaneous
with this gun.
The records kept at St. Etienne, France, show that the French monarch,
Henry II, shot with a breech-loading gun in 1540. And the English records
show that the Marquis of Worcester took out a patent in that country for
a breech action on the “cut-screw” principle in 1661. A portion of the
specification reads as follows:
“An invencione to make certain guns or pistols which in the tenth part
of one minute of an hour may be re-charged; the fourth part of one turne
of the barrell, which remains still fixt, fastening it as foreceably and
effectually as a dozen shrids of any screw, which, in the ordinary and
usual way require as many turnes.”
There are several specimens of the breech-loader made on this plan,
now in the Woolwich Museum. There are also other specimens, on a plan
entirely different, made at a date but a little more recent, for it seems
that then, as in modern days, one invention was very apt to suggest
another. Three years after the Marquis of Worcester had taken out his
patent, one Abraham Hill, of London, patented some six different systems
of breech-loaders. In his specification concerning one of them he says:
“It is a new way of making a gun or a pistoll, the breech whereof rises
on a hindge, by a contrivance of a motion under it, by which it is also
let down and bolted fast by one of the same motion.”
This, as will be readily seen, was rubbing pretty close upon the
breech-loader of the present day.
Since the dates of the patents just referred to, the breech-loading
fire-arm is known to have been in uninterrupted existence; but so strong
was the current turned against it by popular prejudice, that it was
little known to the people in general. A want of scientific training
among the masses was the cause which held it back; they were unable
to clearly understand all the whys and wherefores connected with its
workings, and, therefore, rejected it on the plea that it was dangerous,
without really knowing whether it was or not.
Great improvements in the breech-loader now succeeded each other with
astonishing rapidity up to the time when M. Lefaucheux, of France,
capped the climax by inventing the cartridge containing within itself
the cap, or means of igniting the charge. This made it available as a
sporting gun, and hence promptly set it forward into public attention;
and finally, after a score or so of improvements, usually at the hands of
the English, into public favor. It is, at last, the gun of the period,
and the old muzzle-loader, with all its good qualities (and they were
certainly many), is rapidly surrendering the field to the more successful
candidate, and retiring in the footsteps of its honored predecessors, the
wheel-lock and the flint-lock.
CHAPTER II.
HOW GUNS ARE MADE.
_Gunsmith—Gunmaker._—The modern gunsmith is not necessarily a gunmaker,
but rather a repairer of guns that have happened to get out of order.
In earlier days the devotees to his calling may, in their little shops,
have made guns entire, but now, if the gunsmith _makes_ them at all,
that making consists in merely finishing up the parts and putting them
together—generally making the stock entire. All gun parts can now be
bought as “gunsmith’s materials,” either finished or in the rough, as may
be desired. They are made by a variety of workmen, the business of each
man being to make a single part, and nothing more. There is at present
too much in a good gun to admit of all being made advantageously by one
man; he would need to be a kind of “Jack-of-all-trades,” and, like the
traditional Jack, it is but reasonable to suppose that he would be really
first-class at none.
In some of the large establishments where guns are made all these
different workmen are employed, hence such an establishment is really a
collection of workers in many trades. The gunsmith who has his shop for
repairing purposes, or for putting together materials under the name of
gunmaking, will not be specially concerned with reference to any of
these trades; still it is but reasonable to suppose that he would like
to know something of how the implements, or parts of implements, that he
will be constantly handling, were put up; and, besides, there will exist
something akin to a necessity for his possession of such knowledge, owing
to the fact that his customers will often call upon him to answer many
a question as to how this or that gun was made, etc. With this view of
the case, it is really necessary to give a brief outline of gunmaking,
following the work from the rough material to the final finish.
_Gun-Barrels—Best Materials for._—The barrels of the finest and best
guns, either Damascus, or other steel, or iron, are formed, as made in
Europe and England, of scraps of iron suited to the purpose, and selected
with great skill and the greatest possible care. These scraps, which
are usually bought up about the country, are placed in what is called
a “shaking tub”—a vessel which is violently shaken and rocked about by
machinery or otherwise (depending upon the particular locality) for the
purpose of scouring and brightening the scraps. This done, they are
carefully picked over by adepts, who cull out the unsuitable pieces. So
rigid is the culling that it often happens that out of a ton of scoured
scraps not more than one hundred pounds weight of them are chosen as
suitable for going into the best barrels.
Among the scraps usually thought to be best are old chains that have been
used for many years, the wear and rust of time having left only the best
elements of the iron. The Damascus steel, which has attained to so high
a reputation, got it by being manufactured out of old coach springs. Of
course it is not all made of coach springs now, but it was in years ago;
agents then traveled all over the country hunting and buying them up,
paying a much higher price for an old broken spring than a new one would
cost its owner.
_On Making Gun-Barrels._—The selected scraps to be worked into gun-barrel
material are cut into small pieces and thrown into a furnace, where
they are exposed to intense heat until fused, after which they are
brought forth an adhering mass and placed under a hammer, which drives
them together and forges them into bars. The bars are next rolled into
thin plates, and then cut into strips twelve inches long and six inches
wide. The _very best_ guns are made of a combination of iron and steel.
Both materials having been rolled and cut into sheets of exactly the
same size, these sheets (one-fourth of an inch thick) are piled upon
each other alternately to the number of thirty, and subjected to a
welding heat; they are then driven together under a five-ton hammer
into a consolidated slab. The slabs so formed are next worked down into
one-fourth inch square rods. The more the material is hammered and worked
the better it is. The rods are next twisted until they present the
appearance of a strand of rope, some rods being twisted to the right and
others to the left. Two rods, with opposite twist, are heated to the
welding degree, placed upon each other, and rolled together; they are now
in a narrow slab, presenting that fine curl of “grain” peculiar to the
Damascus, or that beautiful wavy figure peculiar to the laminated steel,
as the case may be. The next operation is to coil one of these slabs
around a mandrel in a spiral form, and weld it securely under the blows
of hand-hammers. It is now a gun-barrel in the rough.
_Finishing and Proving._—The rough barrel goes from the welder to the
borer, where it is put through the process of “rough boring.” From the
“rough borer” it goes into the hands of the “fine borer,” who bores it
out smoothly and to near the size it is to be when finished. Another
operator then takes it in charge and dresses it to smoothness externally,
then the “tester” takes it and dips it into strong acid, which soon shows
any imperfection in either twist or welding that might exist. If not
perfect, it is sent back to be worked over; if all right, it passes to
the next department, where it is straightened inside. This part of the
work is governed entirely by the eye, and hence demands the services of a
workman of great skill, and experience.
Having been “passed on” by the “straightener,” the barrel goes to
the “turner,” who turns it in a lathe until the outside is true and
correspondingly straight with the interior, and is of exactly the
required weight. If the arm is to be a double-barrel shot gun, the barrel
next goes into the hands of a workman who joins it to another barrel
with the utmost nicety; to attain which, levels and other suitable
instruments are brought into requisition. Like the man who straightens
the bore, the man who joins the barrels must be a workman of great skill.
The next operation is to braze on the “lumps;” then, next in order, the
ribs are put on. Now comes the “proving.” The rear ends having been
securely plugged, they go to the proof department, where is placed into
each barrel fully four ordinary charges of gunpowder; then, atop of this,
a wad of strong brown paper, rammed securely down, then a leaden bullet
large enough to exactly fit the bore, and then another wad of brown
paper. The charge is fired, and if the barrels stand the ordeal unfazed,
they are ready to be fitted to the action; otherwise, they go back to be
worked over. In some houses the “proving” is done before the barrels are
joined together.
_Action, Stock and Final Finish._—The “action man” now takes the perfect
barrels in hand and performs his part of the work. In the meantime the
stock-maker has not been idle. A stock is already in waiting, and next
must come a series of fittings of the most exquisite nicety, until the
gun is actually a gun and ready for its final test. This is applied by
the “targeteer,” who passes upon it according to its merits. If his
report comes in favorable, the gun goes to the proper department for
final finish. The stock is dressed up, finished in oil or varnish and
chequered, and its mountings put on. Every piece of metal is polished and
burnished to the highest possible degree, and all the needed engraving
is done. Next comes the case-hardening, coloring, and the browning or
bronzing; and this having been well and satisfactorily performed, the gun
is ready for market.
_On Making the Rifle._—The processes employed in making the modern rifle
do not differ materially from those named in the foregoing. Of course
there are some processes employed on the shot gun that are not called for
in the manufacture of the rifle, and some on the rifle not needed on the
shot gun. The general principle is the same, however, and therefore it
is not necessary to consume time in further description. The great care
mentioned is only done to make a good gun; only the cheap and inferior
guns are pitched together in an easier and more irregular way. But the
gunsmith would not thank any one for a treatise on cheap and bad guns.
They are legion, more’s the pity, and his extensive dealings with them
will afford annoyance sufficient to do away with any desire on his part
to fight his battles over in a book.
_Plain Steel-Barrel Guns._—Of course there are guns with “plain steel
barrels,” as they are called, which pass muster as fair; and the barrels
of these are made by a process differing materially from that described
in the foregoing; all else connected with the making is the same. These
plain steel barrels are made of round bars of steel two inches in
diameter. The bars are first cut into lengths of nine inches each; a hole
or bore three-fourths of an inch in diameter is drilled through the
centre. They are now called moulds, and the next step is to pass them
through rolls, which reduce them to the required size for barrels and
stretch them out to the required length, holding them, at the same time,
in the proper shape, externally. Having been thus rolled, they are bored
out internally, turned and ground externally, until they have attained to
the shape and proportions of correctly-formed barrels. After this comes
the fitting up and “proving,” as in the case of the finer guns.
CHAPTER III.
GUNS NOW IN USE.
_Guns Defined._—Excepting the pistol, and the mortar, perhaps, all
fire-arms now in use are classed under the name of guns. The cannon or
artillery ordnance in all its sizes and forms, is simply a large gun. It
is variously divided off, according to character, into heavy siege-guns,
field-pieces, rifled-cannon and smooth-bores. These again are sub-divided
into a large number of different kinds, as the Armstrong, the Dahlgren,
the Columbiad, the Paixhan, the Parrot, the Whitworth, etc. But with guns
of this class the practical gunsmith will have nothing to do, and hence
it is but reasonable to suppose that he feels no particular concern about
them. It is with the small-arms that his concern will mainly lie, and
therefore from this page to the conclusion of this work the gun mentioned
will be some instrument classing with the small fire-arms, and liable to
be brought to a gunsmith’s shop for repairs.
The small arms, or hand guns, are muskets, rifles, carbines,
fowling-pieces and pistols. These may be properly divided into three
classes: the flint-lock, the percussion-lock and the cartridge
breech-loader.
_The Old Flint-Lock Guns._—Of the old flint-locks, only a few are now
in existence within the United States. Here and there one has been kept
as a kind of heirloom by some family, and occasionally these drop in
upon the gunsmith for repairs, but not often. They are more common along
the Mexican border in Texas, perhaps, than in any other portion of the
country.
A minute description of the old flint-lock-gun need not be given, as,
in general characteristics it does not differ materially from all other
muzzle-loaders. The barrel is usually longer than that of the more modern
gun; and, in the case of the rifle, the stock (all wood) extends nearly
to the muzzle. It is what, in later days, when half-stocks had been
invented, was called a full-stock. As already intimated the interior
mechanism of the lock differs very little from that of the more modern
cap or percussion-lock. On the outside, in place of the cap-hammer is a
cock arranged with two lips for holding a flint. The lips are brought
together firmly upon the flint by means of a screw which passes down
immediately back of it. In the top of the lock-plate, directly in front
of the cock, is set the priming-pan; a small iron receptacle made to
contain, say the fourth of a teaspoonful of gunpowder. When the lock is
in position the butt or open end of the pan comes squarely up against the
barrel of the gun where a small hole called the “touch-hole” communicates
with the interior, and with the charge, when the gun is loaded. Over
the priming-pan a cover fits nicely, lying horizontally when the pan is
closed, and turning up at right angles on the edge nearest the cock, and
standing erect, a small plate of steel, immediately in front of the
flint. This cover, with its vertical plate is called the frizzen. It
works on a hinge, and is held into whatever position set, by means of a
small spring called the heel spring. When the cock is set in motion by
drawing upon the trigger and releasing the check to the mainspring, the
flint comes in contact with the steel plate of the frizzen, throwing
it back upon its hinge and scraping down its face directly towards the
priming-pan. As the frizzen flies back the pan is uncovered, of course,
enabling the flint to end its journey directly in the priming powder of
the pan. In its scrape over the steel plate of the frizzen it causes many
brilliant sparks of fire, which descending with it into the priming sets
off the charge.
_The Percussion-Lock Gun._—As has already been stated, the immediate
successor of the old flint-lock was the percussion or cap-lock. While now
far beyond its zenith, it is still the prevailing gun in many portions of
the country; especially in out-of-the-way districts South and West. In
the oldest make of these guns a small plug of iron is screwed into the
barrel at the point where the touch-hole of the flint-lock was located.
It is called the cylinder. The end passing into the barrel is drilled to
communicate with the powder-bed of the gun, and with a cap-tube, which is
screwed into the cylinder, to stand erect near the side of the barrel. In
more modern guns the cylinder has been discarded, the tube going directly
into the barrel and communicating with the powder-bed.
The oldest percussion-lock rifles are set in whole-stock, on the plan of
the flint-lock gun; and on account of the fact that all the old-fashioned
folks are not yet dead, some factories put up new guns after the same
model, calling them Kentucky rifles. The stock reaches the full length
of the barrel, which is heavy and about four feet long. It is octagon in
shape. But in most of the more modern rifles the barrel is shorter, say
from 32 to 36 inches in length, and comparatively light; and the stock
extends only half the length of the barrel, joining to a rib affixed to
the barrel for the purpose of holding the ramrod-thimbles.
The “patent-breech” may be mentioned as another peculiarity of the
percussion-lock gun, since it was not known in the days ere the
flint-lock had lost its prestige. In those early days the breech end
of the barrel was closed by a plug of iron, screwed in and called the
breech-pin. From its upper side there extended backward along the stock
a thin plate or strap, through which screws passed at right angles to
hold the barrel in place. This method of securing the breech-end of the
barrel into the stock has been done away with by the patent breech, which
secures it by means of a short hook on the end of the breech-pin; or,
rather, on the end of the short plug screwed into the barrel in place of
the old breech-pin. It is much more convenient than the old fashioned
arrangement, as it enables the barrel to be taken from the stock in a
moment, doing away with the labor of drawing the breech-pin screws.
_On the Muzzle-Loaders._—The percussion-lock muzzle-loaders all work upon
about the same principle. The charge must go in at the muzzle and be put
down to the breech. In the case of army guns it is usually contained
in a paper cartridge. The soldier bites off the end of the cartridge
in which the powder is inclosed, to admit of a communication with the
cap, and then forces it down with the ramrod. But in the case of rifles
and fowling pieces, or shotguns, as the latter are most commonly called
in this country, cartridges are seldom employed. In loading a rifle
the powder is first measured in a “charger,” and then poured down the
barrel; next comes the patch, which is usually a piece of new and strong
cotton cloth, most commonly the kind known as white drilling. This,
having been tallowed upon one side, the tallowed side is spread over the
muzzle of the gun, and the bullet is pressed upon it into the muzzle,
the side from which the “neck,” formed in moulding, has been cut, must
be directly downward. Generally with the handle of a knife the bullet
is pressed into the bore as far as it can be sent by such means; then
the patch is gathered around it and cut smoothly off exactly flush with
the muzzle end of the barrel. The next operation is to draw the ramrod,
throw the gun under the left arm, with its breech resting upon the ground
and its muzzle in front of the breast, and then having set the butt end
of the ramrod upon the bullet and grasped it in both hands, the bullet
is gradually, and by main strength, forced downward into position. To
make sure that it is entirely down the gun is taken from under the arm,
by some, and set with the breech resting upon the ground more in front,
after which the ramrod is raised up a foot or so and pitched down the
bore like throwing a pike. If it does not bound back the bullet is not
down solid upon the powder, and the pitching is repeated until it does
bound. The upward bound of a few inches is sufficient to settle it that
the bullet is down.
In the early times the bullet of the rifle was patched with dressed
deer-skin exclusively.
Charging the shot-gun muzzle-loader is an operation somewhat different.
First comes the powder poured down the bore from a charger, as in the
case of the rifle. Next comes a wad, usually of paper, which must fit
tightly, and be rammed down solid upon the powder. Following this comes
the shot, measured in the same charger, or in one of the same capacity.
The measure of powder and the measure of shot usually made about the
same. Over the shot is rammed a loose wad—it needs only to be tight
enough to prevent the shot from rolling out when the muzzle of the gun
happens to come lower than the breech. Disk-like wads of pasteboard or
felt cloth are the latest invention.
_The Breech Loaders._—The breech-loading gun is now before the public
in considerable variety; and being really the gun of the day, and,
consequently, engaging the best thought of inventors, it is constantly
appearing in new forms. This being the case, about all that could be
expected in this work, is a mere mention of the general principles upon
which it works.
Taking a double-barrel shot-gun for illustrating these general
principles, it may be stated that the barrels are movable at the breech
or rear end, and butt upon the face of the standing breech peculiar
to the latest and best muzzle-loaders. The face of these barrels fits
smoothly against that of the standing breech. There is nothing in the
way of a breech-pin to resist the backward force of the ignited powder,
or hold the barrels in place. The hooks mentioned as peculiar to the
patent breech muzzle-loader are not there—nothing at all like them. But
the barrels, when put into place for shooting are held there by means of
a solid piece of iron attached to them underneath, called the “lump.”
To effect this, it descends into an iron bed on the stock called the
“action,” its projections fitting into suitable recesses in the action
and being held there by the agency of keys, wedges, bolts or grips.
There are many devices for gripping, bolting or wedging up the gun, as it
is called; and also many for attaching the barrels to the stock. In all
cases the barrels play upon a hinge pin, which admits of their dropping
down at the muzzle and rising at the breech, the latter to reject the
empty cartridge and receive the loaded one. At every discharge the gun is
opened and closed by throwing up the barrels for the purpose just named,
and then letting them down again into position for shooting. The means by
which this opening and closing is effected vary greatly in the guns of
different makers.
_Variety of Breech-Loaders._—This gives the general idea of about all
there is of it. There are a few breech-loaders made in both this country
and in Europe whose barrels are fixed, the cartridge being inserted
through some other device; and there are still a few others whose barrels
slide forward or sideways in the stock to receive the load—do not tilt on
a hinge-pin—but neither of these kinds are so common as the kinds just
referred to.
CHAPTER IV.
PISTOLS NOW IN USE.
_Old-Style Pistols._—Pistols, the smallest of fire-arms, were originally
plain implements of a single barrel; but, as improvements advanced,
a second barrel was added to many of them, presenting what is known
as the double-barreled pistol. Some of these old-fashioned single and
double-barreled pistols will still occasionally find their way into
the shop of the gunsmith, though their numbers, as now in use, are
comparatively small, especially the muzzle-loaders. In rare instances a
flint-lock “horse pistol” or holster may put in an appearance, though
none such are now on sale at any house dealing in fire-arms. Some few
houses are still offering the old cap-lock army holster, always a
second-hand article that once belonged to the Government, and was bought
up by dealers when the Government had discarded it for the adoption of
more modern and better arms. A description of this kind of weapon is
unnecessary as it is simply a small musket with side-lock, and all on
the usual plan, differing only in being short and having a turned-down
handle, to be held in one hand, instead of the usual breech. The single
or double-barrel muzzle-loaders, outside the line of army holsters, will
usually have the central lock, which is next to no lock at all; simply a
mainspring working in the handle and throwing the cap-hammer, which is
fitted in the middle of the piece immediately behind the breech-end of
the barrel. Some very cheap pistols for boys are still made on this plan.
_The Derringer._—The old Derringer, though not now much manufactured in
this country, is still among the people in considerable numbers. It is a
muzzle-loader, with side-lock and full-stock in wood; and, by the way, it
is a very good pistol of its kind.
_The Pepper Box._—There are quite a number of little breech-loading
cartridge-pistols, with single barrels, now in use, but the pistol of the
day is a repeater, of which there are kinds in great variety. One of the
oldest and now rarest of these is the “pepper-box,” so called. It has a
single barrel containing from five to seven bores, which are loaded from
the muzzle. A tube for percussion caps communicates with each bore at
the breech, and upon these a hammer strikes, having an automatic action,
rising up and striking in response to pressure upon a trigger underneath,
which pressure also revolves the barrel, bringing the caps into proper
position for receiving the blow. It was never a popular pistol, people
objecting to a kind of way it had of sometimes letting off its seven
charges simultaneously, when the person operating it had intended to fire
but one.
_Old Colt’s Revolver._—Next among the repeaters, in point of scarcity, is
the Colt’s revolver of the earliest patent. It has a stationary single
barrel and revolving cylinder, the latter containing from five to seven
chambers for receiving the charges. It is not a muzzle-loader, though
the charges must be put into the chambers at the breech, somewhat on
the muzzle-loading plan. It is fired by means of percussion caps. The
cylinder revolves, throwing the chamber to be discharged into proper
position at the breech of the barrel when the cap-hammer is drawn back.
Though inconvenient, compared to the cartridge pistol of more modern
make, the old Colt’s revolver is yet an excellent arm. There are houses
still making revolvers on the same plan.
_Sharp’s Four Shooter._—Next to the old Colt’s revolver may be placed
the Sharp’s four shooter. It is a neat and strong-shooting, little
breech-loading pistol, using a No. 22 cartridge. The barrel has four
bores but does not revolve; but the hammer has a revolving point, for
striking the cartridge, which moves into proper position for a new
discharge every time it is drawn back to full cock. The barrel slides
forward upon the stock for receiving new cartridges.
_The Breech-loading Cartridge Revolvers._—Next comes the regular
breech-loading cartridge revolver, which is the pistol now most common
and most popular. To attempt a detailed description of every style of
this weapon would be to swell our book to unwieldy proportions, and even
were the multitudinous styles at present before the public described,
it would be impossible to keep pace with the number which would be
constantly introduced. But, even were it possible to do so, no good
purpose would be subserved. Various as the styles appear, they all
embrace devices and combinations which are substantially covered by our
several chapters, and the intelligent workman will not require minute
descriptions to recognize or understand the individual weapon when well
grounded in a knowledge of the class of fire-arms to which it belongs. It
is our purpose to give such descriptions, directions and illustrations
as shall make everything sufficiently clear and explicit to enable the
reader, with careful attention thereto, to handle successfully and
satisfactorily any job likely to come to his hands.
CHAPTER V.
ON GENERAL GUNSMITHING.
_The Gunsmith and his Trade._—Few trades present so little regular
routine as does that of the gunsmith. In most trades it is the same
thing over and over again; but, with the exception of taking the
gun to pieces and putting it together; and, perhaps, of tempering,
case-hardening and the like, the gunsmith may work regularly for a long
time without being called upon to do precisely the same thing twice.
As a consequence, the gunsmith must be merely an ingenious mechanic or
worker in metals, capable of thinking deeply and searching out causes and
requirements—there is little need of his being anything more. The gun, in
all its forms, is only a machine, and a simple one at that—so simple as
to be easily understood by any one capacitated for making an intelligent
study of machinery.
_Fitting up a Shop._—The specialties to claim the attention of the
gunsmith in fitting up his shop if his means are limited may be few. It
will be about like fitting up the shop of any general worker in metals.
He will need a forge, an anvil and a vise; in a word he will need a light
but complete set of blacksmith’s tools, to begin with. This outfit will
be his foundation, so to speak; and he can add to it such smaller tools
as judgment and experience may suggest as wanted; such, for instance,
as a hand-vise or two, cutting-pliers, bending-pliers, holding-pliers,
small files of various shapes, small drills, a screw-plate or two, a few
gravers, and so on. He might have many special tools, such as could not
be bought at the ordinary hardware store, or at any house dealing in
outfits for the general worker in metals, but for ordinary repairing, he
will not have much need of them. Among the special tools that he will be
compelled to have will be a rifle-guide, a few sets of rifle-saws and a
few mould-cherries. These with proper instructions he can make himself
if he finds he cannot buy them cheaper than he can make them. There are
a few specialties in the way of tools or machines for gunsmiths that are
offered to the trade by houses dealing in gunsmith’s materials, and some
of them may be found very useful as labor-savers, but the gunsmith _can_
get along without them if he does not wish to buy. Prominent among these
is a mainspring-vise or clamp, which has several advantages over the
common hand-vise sometimes employed for clamping the mainspring. It would
be well to look after these things, and to adopt them in every case where
it appeared beyond question that they could be made to pay. There is no
occasion to speak against any of the specialties that may be presented to
the attention of the trade—of their merits the party most concerned must
be his own judge.
CHAPTER VI.
TAKING APART, CLEANING AND PUTTING GUNS TOGETHER.
_To Take the Gun Apart._—With the muzzle-loading guns now in common use
this is an operation so simple as to be scarcely worthy a mention. If the
gun is an old-fashioned breech-pinned muzzle-loader, the first thing is
to push out the small wire pins or bolts which pass through the stock,
under the barrel, and through the barrel-loops. The next thing is to draw
the breechpin screw; this lets the barrel out of the stock. If it is
desirable to unbreech the gun, it is done by clamping the breechpin in a
vise, and then turning the barrel by hand until it is screwed off the pin.
The patent-breech muzzle-loader comes apart the same way in every
particular, with the exception that there is no breechpin screw to draw;
the barrel can be easily lifted from the stock by simply raising the
muzzle and unhooking the patent breech, so soon as the pins or bolts
before mentioned as holding it down have been removed. The unbreeching is
done at the vise much the same as in the other case.
To take apart the ordinary breech-loader, begin by setting the hammer at
half-cock. Open the lever, then draw the bolt, starting it with a tap
from the handle of the screwdriver. Next detach the fore-piece, and the
barrel will come out without further resistance. Instructions to take
down and assemble different kinds of breech-loading guns will be found in
Chapter XL.
_To Clean the Gun when Apart._—In olden times a bucket of water and a
wisp of tow and a stout “wiper” had to be brought into requisition,
particularly for the interior of the barrel, but now these things are
mainly obsolete, so far as relates to the outfit of the gunsmith. The
owner of a muzzle-loader, who does not wish to remove the breechpin, may
still resort to the old plan of washing out the barrel, though there is
now really no necessity for it. A little benzine poured down the muzzle,
after stopping the tube, will do the work of cleaning effectually and in
a few minutes. Let stand a short time, then remove the plug from the tube
and force the benzine out by running down a tow wad on the wiper—all the
dirt will go out through the tube with it, leaving you nothing to do but
wipe the benzine from the bore with the tow.
In the case of a gun unbreeched, or a breech-loader, all that is
necessary is to saturate a bit of cotton flannel with benzine and run it
through the barrel a few times. If the gun is a fine one, well finished,
this process will leave the interior as shining and bright as a mirror.
With the same arrangement rub thoroughly any of the metal parts that
happen not to be clean, and all impurities will promptly leave them.
After this, oil and wipe with a chamois skin, and the work is done.
Benzine may be had at any drug store at about the price of kerosene. It
is especially valuable as a gun cleaner for two reasons: its peculiar
fitness for detaching and carrying away dirt, and its highly volatile
properties, which cause it to evaporate and entirely leave the metal
in a short time after the application has been made. Its adoption has
completely done away with the necessity of ever using a drop of water
upon a gun, in any case, which is a matter of decided importance and
advantage.
_To Put the Gun Together._—With the muzzle-loaders the operation of
putting together is simply a work directly in reverse to that of taking
apart. In case of the common make of breech-loaders a little more
variation may be regarded as necessary. Take the grip of the stock in
the left hand, having the lever open. Hook on the barrel and turn the
gun over with the hammers underneath, still holding the stock at the
grip. The weight of the barrel will keep it in place. With the right hand
attach the forepiece and push in the bolt.
Of course there are guns of peculiar make, now and then to be met
with, which will require a different routine, both in taking apart and
putting together. The details, with full directions for taking down and
assembling nearly all the breech-loading guns now made, will be found
explained, with cuts of their mechanism and working parts, in Chapter
XLII.
A careful study will soon show the gunsmith how they come apart and how
they go together. The main thing is to work with extreme care, and to
never act until you clearly understand what you are doing.
CHAPTER VII.
TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, THEIR COST, ETC.
Given in alphabetical order are some of the tools that will be required
by the gunsmith, and in connection a very brief sketch is given of their
approximate cost at hardware stores. This list is intended only as a sort
of guide in purchasing, and is by no means intended as a complete list of
what may be wanted.
[Illustration: FIGURE 1.]
_The Alcohol Lamp._—This lamp, shown in Fig. 1, is useful for small
soldering, tempering small taps, drills, etc. Glass or brass lamps with
caps to prevent evaporation, are sold for about 50 cents each.
_Alcohol Lamp, Self-Blowing._—This lamp, shown in Fig. 2, very convenient
when continued blowing is required, or when the “knack” of using
the common plow-pipe cannot be readily acquired. It may be used for
soldering, brazing small articles, or hardening small tools, Size 2½
inches diameter and 5 inches high, $2; about 3 inches diameter and 6
inches high, $3.
[Illustration: FIGURE 2.]
_Anvil._—An anvil weighing about ninety or one hundred pounds is heavy
enough. An Eagle anvil of this weight will cost about $9 or $10. The body
of this kind of anvil is cast iron with steel face and horn. Price per
pound is about ten cents.
_Barrel Planes._—These planes are now but little used, except for
stocking guns or rifles which are to be fitted with full-length stocks.
As this form of gun is somewhat going out of use, so the stocker’s planes
are getting to be cast to one side. They are made similar to a narrow
rabbet plane, but have the iron set close to the fore end. Any narrow
plane with the fore end cut off to within half an inch of the opening in
which the iron is placed will make a substitute for the stocker’s plane.
The plane with round face is used to let in round barrels, and one with
a face equal in width to the sides of an octagon barrel, for letting in
such barrels. A narrow plane is used to let in the ramrod, by cutting a
groove centrally in the bottom of the barrel groove. The planes used are
about four in number and the cost is about seven or eight dollars for the
set as sold by dealers.
_Bevel._—Bevels for ascertaining and forming surfaces, not at a right
angle with some certain line, can be had from one dollar upward in price.
The four inch is very good size. The blade is held in position by a
screw, which forms part of the joint on which the blade turns. Shown in
Fig. 3.
[Illustration: FIGURE 3.]
_Beveling Clamp._—These tools are generally made of about three sizes,
and are used for holding hammers when filing the bevel upon the sides.
They are also useful for holding lock-plates while filing the bevel on
them. In the vise, work can only be conveniently held at a vertical or
horizontal position; this clamp is designed to furnish a means to hold
it so as to file an angle of about 45 degrees. The tool is shown in Fig.
4. It is held in the vise, the shoulders resting on the vise jaws. The
spring between the jointed portions opens the tool when the vice jaws
are opened, the closing of the vise jaws, of course, closing the clamp
upon the work that is placed in it. The cost of these tools is from two
to three dollars, according to size and quality.
[Illustration: FIGURE 4.]
_Blacksmith Tongs._—Blacksmith tongs can now be purchased of the hardware
dealer. The twelve-inch length are used for small work, and the fifteen
or eighteen for heavier work. The twelve inch cost about 50 cents; the
fifteen, 62, and the eighteen, 75 cents each.
_Blow-Pipe._—Select a blow-pipe eight or ten inches in length, with bulb
or without, as fancy may dictate. If the end where the mouth comes in
contact be silver or nickle-plated, it will not taste of brass. If it
be difficult to get one plated, tin it with soft solder by wetting with
soldering acid, and melting the solder on it by holding it over the lamp.
Wipe off all superfluous solder with a rag. The cost of plain eight or
ten inch pipe is about 25 cents. Add about one-third or one-half this
price for pipes with bulb.
_Breeching Taps._—Breeching taps ought to be obtained in pairs, one to
enter first and another to follow, cutting a full thread at the bottom.
The prices per pair are for the ⅜ inch $2.25; ½ inch, $2.50; ⅝ inch,
$2.75. For shot gun taps, ¾ inch, $3.00; ⅞ inch, $3.25. A stock with dies
will cost about a like sum, but if the stock be fitted with only two sets
of dies, it will be much less. The two threads used for rifle pins are 14
and 16 to the inch.
The 14 and 16 threads are not always adhered to. A house in Philadelphia
say they use taps of 18 threads, and a firm in Pittsburg advertise taps
of 20 threads per inch.
_Calipers and Dividers._—The best length of spring calipers and dividers,
for common bench work, is about four inches. The cost is from 50 cents to
$1.50, according to quality.
_Chisels._—The chisels, as used by stockers, are about half a dozen in
number. The narrowest is about one-eighth of an inch wide, and the widest
about half inch. The set of six will cost about a dollar or a dollar and
a half.
_Cutting Pliers._—A pair of cutting pliers, six inches in length, for
cutting wire, are indispensable. Select those of good quality. Poor
pliers of this description are poor, indeed. The cost will be from 75
cents to $1.50. There are patented pliers of this kind in market that are
recommended by many who use them.
_Drill Stock._—Many kinds are in market, from eight inches in length
upward. Some are termed hand drills, and the larger ones, used against
the breast, are called breast drills. The hand drills can be obtained as
low as 50 cents and upward; the price of breast drills from two to three
dollars. Select a drill stock, if one be required, of a size and strength
to suit the work to which it will be used.
_File Card._—This is for cleaning filings, dirt, etc., that may collect
in files. It consists of a strip of common cotton card tacked to a piece
of wood conveniently shaped to handle. It is also useful to clean the
dirt and debris that will collect in screw taps. The cost is about 25
cents. Shown in Fig. 5.
[Illustration: FIGURE 5.]
_Fitting Square._—A fitting square with a four, five or six-inch blade
is required for many purposes, not only for laying out iron stocks and
marking off “square work,” but other work that will come into a gun shop.
The gun squares used by carpenters and cabinet makers are very good. If
the stock be of iron, or an iron frame filled with wood, they are better
than those with wooden stocks. The cost of the six-inch may be about 75
cents. The other somewhat less.
_Floats._—For half-stocking, the gouge and floats are used for letting
in barrels. The floats are made with a handle bent at an angle so that
the hand will not hit the work. The round float in form resembles a
gouge with teeth like a coarse file cut on the rounded or bottom surface.
Floats have been made by drawing the temper of a thick gouge and cutting
teeth in it, or taking a half-round file and drawing the temper, and then
cutting teeth on the round side. Floats for octagon barrels are flat,
like a chisel with teeth cut on one of the flat sides. A thin float for
letting in cross bolts is made in the same manner. A float for fitting
ramrods may be made of a steel rod with teeth cut on one end, and a
handle fixed to the other. The bolt float will cost about 50 cents. The
rod float about $1.00 each for two sizes. Rifle, two sizes, about $1.25
each. Shot gun, two sizes, about $1.50 each.
_Forge._—Little advice can be given respecting a forge. Some prefer the
bellows forge, while others select the fan blower. The great requirement
of the gunsmith is portability and occupying little space. It should also
be so enclosed as to prevent escape of dust, and be free from accident of
fire escaping if left with the fire lighted. The cost of either form of
portable forge will be from $20, upward.
_Glue Pot._—Glue pots can be purchased with kettle fitting inside the
pot and tinned on inside, quart size about 75 cents. A glue pot may be
extemporized by selecting a common round fruit can, cutting out the cover
so as to allow a smaller can to fit and be held in place. Where economy
is desired or a pot cannot be purchased, the can glue pot will answer
every purpose.
_Gouges._—About six gouges are needed. The sizes are about one-eighth
for the smallest, and increasing to three-quarters for the largest. The
cost of the set will be about one dollar and a quarter.
_Grind Stone._—An Ohio stone, about 20 inches diameter and 2½ inches
thick, mounted plain, can be got up for about three or four dollars. The
iron fixtures will cost about a dollar, and the stone a cent and a half
or more per pound, according to locality.
_Hack Saw._—A hack saw shown in Fig. 6, with iron frame, to hold a blade
of eight or ten inches in length is required for cutting off barrels,
slotting screws, cutting off rods of iron, brass, etc., besides many
other uses. The eight inch with blade will cost about $1.25, the ten inch
about $1.50. If at any time a blade be broken they can be replaced at
from 25 to 50 cents.
[Illustration: FIGURE 6.]
_Hammers._—In choosing hammers select the plain riveting hammer with
cross pein. The sizes generally most used are a four ounce, a twelve
ounce and a heavier one for use at the forge. The four ounce costing
about 30 cents, the twelve ounce about 50 cents, and the larger one
according to weight. In selecting hammers try the pein with a fine
file to learn the temper. In many cases the pein is left too soft for
riveting steel.
_Handles._—Handles for files or screwdrivers are best when made of maple
or apple wood. Maple is generally preferred. Some mechanics like soft
wood, as bass-wood or white birch, for file handles, but they are not
so neat as those made of maple. Get those with ferrules made from sheet
brass, raised to form. Soft wood handles are worth about 25 cents per
dozen, and the hard wood about 50 cents.
_Hand Shears._—For cutting sheet tin, brass, thin sheet steel, small
springs, etc., select a pair of hand shears about nine or ten inches in
length, costing about $1.50. With these, common watch-springs can be cut
lengthwise, for making small springs for pistols. The temper need not be
drawn to cut them. (Shown in Fig. 7.)
[Illustration: FIGURE 7.]
_Hand-vise._—A hand-vise for holding wire, screws, etc., is needed. About
four or four and a half inches in length is most convenient. For holding
small wire, cut a groove with a three-square file across the jaws toward
the jointed end. The cost will be from 50 cents to $1.00, according to
quality.
[Illustration: FIGURE 8.]
_Iron Clamps._—A pair of malleable iron clamps (shown in Fig. 8), opening
about four inches, are useful for holding barrels into the stock during
stocking, holding a lock plate or strap in place for marking, holding
barrels together, pieces of wood to be glued, etc. Cost, about 50 cents
each.
[Illustration: FIGURE 9.]
_Mainspring Vise._—This tool (shown in Fig. 9, as clamping a spring) is
used to clamp the mainspring, preparatory to removing it from the lock.
The hammer is set at full cock, and the vise applied, the screw tightened
until the spring can be lifted from place. In taking down double guns,
a vise for each lock spring is very convenient, as the springs can then
rest in the vise, being cramped in place, until ready to be put back
into their respective places. The cost of these vises is from 25 cents
to $2 each, according to quality and make. For a left-side lock, reverse
the sliding piece, so that the short end will bear on the bend of the
mainspring.
_Marking Gauge._—A wood marking gauge is used for laying out lines
parallel to a surface already formed. If made of beech wood, and plain,
it is generally sold for about 25 cents each.
_Screw-cutting Tools._—A small die stock and dies, with taps for lock
work, will cost about $2.50. A plate and ten taps, suitable for all sizes
of nipples, English and German, can be had for about $8.00.
_Screw Wrench._—One of Coe’s patent wrenches, about twelve-inch size,
costing about a dollar, is the best make and the most durable size for
all purposes. This wrench is generally known as a “monkey wrench.”
_Soldering Copper._—A copper for soldering, similar to the kind used by
tinners, is the kind to get. A good size—No. 3—will weigh about a pound
and a half, costing about 75 cents.
_Screw-drivers._—Several screw-drivers are required, and of several
widths, to fit different sized screw heads. The narrowest may be about
one-eighth inch, and the widest, say, half inch to five-eighths inch.
If the mechanic desires to make these himself, select octagon steel,
about one-quarter inch diameter, draw one end to form the tang, and the
other to form the screw-driving part. Get good apple, beech or maple
wood handles. Let the length project about six or seven inches from
the handle. For the larger size screw-drivers get steel three-eighths
diameter. Old files, with the temper drawn and the points ground to
shape, make a passable screw-driver. Screw-drivers purchased at the
store, are generally not so satisfactory as those made from rods. Stub’s
round steel wire rod makes good screwdrivers
_Pliers._—Three kinds of pliers are used by gunsmiths; flat nose, round
nose, and long flat nose or clock-makers’ pliers. Six inch is about the
right length for general use. The round nose are useful for bending wire
or metal into circular forms. The long flat nose for holding work for
soldering and handling work at the forge. Of the flat nose a five inch
pair are useful in many cases. The cost of pliers (six inch), is from
about 50 cents to $1.00 per pair according to quality.
_Wing Dividers._—A pair of wing dividers, about eight inches in length,
will be found the best size for general use. The cost will be about 75
cents. In purchasing see that the screw that binds the leg to the arc
or wing is well fitted. The thread, either in the leg or the screw, is
sometimes stripped or worn out after a little using.
CHAPTER VIII.
TOOLS, ETC., AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.
The tools given in this chapter are such as are needed by the gunsmith,
and as directions are given for making them, they can be made by almost
any ingenious person during leisure hours.
_The Alcohol Lamp._—A lamp for this kind of work is easily made. A common
gum or mucilage bottle with a tube inserted in the cork has been used, so
has a small tin spice-box, with a tube soldered into the cover. A common
copper or brass cartridge, with the head filed off, can be used for a
tube. A common oil can, such as is used for oiling sewing machines, with
about half of the taper tube cut off, will make a serviceable lamp. These
appliances are small, unsightly and not to the taste of the mechanic who
has a pride in the appearance of his tools.
The best form of lamp, shown in Fig. 10, may be made by obtaining a small
glass kerosene hand lamp, which will cost only a trifle of two or three
shillings. Cut off that portion of the burner above the screw, where
it is held to the socket that is fastened to the lamp. Remove the tube
that holds the lamp-wick and also the little contrivance made to raise
and lower the wick. In the place where the tube was inserted, generally
a flat one, file out with a round file, a place which is large enough
to receive a common brass 44-cartridge that has had the head cut off or
removed by filing; this is the tube for the wick. Fasten it in place with
soft solder. Let this tube project a little into the lamp, and solder it
on the under side. The greater portion of the tube projects above the
place where soldered.
[Illustration: FIGURE 10.]
The wick is made of common cotton wicking, letting the end inside touch
the bottom of the lamp. Fill with alcohol, and the lamp is ready for use.
Be careful that the wick is not too tight in the tube, or in other words,
do not fill the tube with too much wick, as it will prevent the alcohol
from rising and the lamp from burning. To prevent evaporation of the
alcohol and to have the wick always ready for lighting, cover the tube
with a cap that fits it quite closely and has the upper end closed. A
brass cartridge that will go over the tube makes a good cover. Remove the
primed cap or see that the cap has been exploded before using it to cover
the lamp tube.
[Illustration: FIGURE 11.]
_A Self-blowing Lamp._—A very good form of this lamp is shown in Fig. 11.
It consists of a lamp enclosed in a kind of cup which has an open place
at the bottom to admit the lamp and a small boiler, fitting loosely, and
held by a flange on its top. A small pipe is soldered to the top of this
boiler and extends downward, and has an end like a blow-pipe that passes
through one side of the cup and ends near or a little above the lamp
wick. The operation is as follows: the lamp being lighted, heats alcohol
placed in the boiler, and the steam thereby made produces a jet that
blows the lamp flame the same as is done with the mouth.
The size of the cup may be from three inches to three and a half in
diameter, and about five inches high. The opening at the bottom may
extend about half of the height. The lamp is made of less diameter than
the interior of the cup to admit of moving to get a good flame from
the blow-pipe. The lamp may be 1¾ inches in diameter and an inch high.
The boiler is about two inches high and has the bottom made a little
convex, as shown by dotted lines, and is some smaller than at the top
where a flange is formed to admit of its resting on the top of the cup.
The top of the boiler is also convex, and has a short tube in which a
cork is fitted, for the purpose of filling it. The blowing tube is about
three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. There is a long slot in the cup
near its handle which readily admits of its being put in position for
blowing. There are several small holes near the top of the cup to insure
draft to the lamp, and there is a large hole about an inch in diameter
opposite the end of the blow-pipe through which the flame issues where
the work is held.
For silver soldering, small brazing, tempering, or any similar small
work, this lamp is most excellent. To make the small blowing-pipe, drill
a smooth hole through a piece of iron or steel and ream out one side of
it. Cut a strip of thin copper or soft brass of a width just enough to
fill the hole if it were made into a tube. Point one end of the strip and
roughly form it into a tube, insert in the hole and pull it through. Or
the strip can be rolled around a piece of iron wire forming it to a tube
by hammering. Soft solder it after being formed to shape.
_Breech Wrenches._—In many shops the monkey wrench is made to do duty in
removing breech-pins, but at the expense of marring the pin where the
wrench engages it. If many guns with breech-pins like those used in army
guns are handled, it is worth while to have solid wrenches forged of iron
like Fig. 12. The length may be about fifteen inches, with an opening to
fit the shoulder of the breech-pin. The width at this place may be about
one and a half inches; thickness, about half an inch; diameter at end of
handle, about three-quarters of an inch, and at the small portions near
the centre, about half an inch.
[Illustration: FIGURE 12.]
A wrench for removing patent breeches or nuts from double guns is made
like Fig. 13. It consists of a steel bar about fifteen or sixteen inches
long and about three-quarters of an inch diameter. At a little to one
side of the center is fastened a steel collar that has four projections
made at one end. A similar piece is fitted opposite to it, but is made
to move back and forth to fit the work by means of a screw that is formed
behind where it is fitted. A slot is made in the extension of the piece
and a key fitted to prevent its turning around as the nut is turned to
advance it toward its fellow piece.
The only substitute to answer for this tool is to file down the jaws
of a monkey wrench so that they will turn between the extensions of a
patent breech while the first breech is being removed. This is a poor
substitute, as there is only one handle to turn with, and when force is
applied to remove the breech it does not have the force applied equally
to each side as in the other kind of wrench, consequently it is not as
effective nor so easy to remove the breech. If an extension to form
another handle could be improvised it would make it much better.
[Illustration: FIGURE 13.]
_The Bit Stock._—Even if the gunsmith have a lathe there is much work
that can be done to advantage with a common bit-stock. But as the drills
and tools used in the lathe generally have round shanks by which to hold
them in the chuck, the square hole where bits and tools are held in the
bit stock must be filled by brazing or soldering a piece of iron into it
and boring a hole to fit the shank of the lathe tools. It is advisable to
have these shanks about seven-sixteenths diameter, as explained under the
heading “Shanks of Tools.”
In holding small drills made of steel wire or twist drills a small drill
chuck must be fitted to the bit stock.
A small solid chuck with a quarter inch hole may be made with a shank
to fit the seven-sixteenth hole. A set screw must be fitted to hold the
shanks of the two sizes mentioned.
[Illustration: FIGURE 14.]
_Bottoming Tools._—Bottoming tools are used for letting in locks,
cutting out for escutcheons, and are useful in other places where a
chisel cannot be made to operate. The form of this tool is shown in Fig.
14. It consists of a square or round shank about three-sixteenths or a
quarter-inch in diameter and about six inches long. At one end a wooden
handle is attached, and the other end is bent at an angle which is about
half an inch or perhaps a little more, and on this angle is another one
turned parallel with the shank and which is about three-eighths of an
inch long. This is the cutting end and is fashioned like the cutting
edge of a chisel, and is about a quarter of an inch wide. The bottom
side, as it would be held for use, is ground flat and the upper side
bevelled like a chisel. The cutting edge may be square or rounded to
suit round places as letting in the bridle of a lock. The size given is
that generally used, but if it be made about twice this size it will be
found very useful in letting in octagon rifle barrels; if the tool be
made larger and hollow like a gouge it is very useful in letting in round
gun barrels. In letting in break off straps it will be found to take the
place of a chisel to some advantage.
_Chequering Tools._—The tools used for chequering are very simple.
Imagine a small saw, or rather two small saws about one inch or more
long, made at the end of a straight steel shank. The form is given in
Fig. 15. The double saw can be made by filing it as one thick saw and
then cutting a groove lengthwise with it. In using, one blade first forms
a groove and the other blade works the next cut; as the first cut is
finished, another mark is being made while so doing. This insures equal
width of the cuts. Care must be exercised in using them so as not to tear
the wood. A fine cut, sharp edged, three square or a small half round
file may be used to finish the work if desired.
[Illustration: FIGURE 15.]
_Nipple Wrenches._—Two forms of nipple wrenches are used, one for square
and the other for two-sided nipples. The most serviceable of these are
made from a straight rod of steel, with a cross handle and an opening
at the opposite end to correspond with the square on the nipple. For
the two-sided, a hole to receive the round part of the nipple where the
cap goes on, may be drilled in a rod of steel and a slot filed across
to receive the shoulders of the sides. The square shouldered kind must
have a hole drilled of the diameter of the square, and then being heated
a square punch of the size of the square is driven in. The nipples used
for Government or military arms have the squares larger than sporting
guns, and the wrenches are generally made of a flat piece of steel with a
square hole made through from side to side at one end and squared to fit
the tube. When made, harden and draw to a blue color for temper.
_Portable Forge._—The following description of a “home made” portable
forge shown in Fig. 16 is given by a contributor to the _Blacksmith and
Wheelwright_: “In size it is two feet square and three feet high; it is
made entirely of wood; the bellows are round and are sixteen and a half
inches in size, covered then with the best sheep skins. The bed of the
forge consists of a box six inches deep. It is supported by corner posts,
all as shown in the sketch. Through the centre of the bottom is a hole
six inches in diameter for the tuyere; this is three inches in outside
diameter, and is six inches high. The bed is lined with brick and clay.
It does not heat through. The bellows are blown up by means of two half
circles with straps from a board running across the bottom, all of which
will be better understood by reference to the sketch. In addition to
protecting the bed by brick and clay, the tuyere is set through a piece
of sheet iron doubled and properly secured in place. The hood which
surmounts the forge may be made out of old sheet iron, and will be found
sufficient for the purpose. The connection between the tuyere and bellows
is a tin pipe.”
[Illustration: FIGURE 16.]
_Vise Appendages._—The best vise for general use is one made by C.
Parker, Meriden, Conn., and is termed a “swivel” vise. To the bench is
attached a round plate of iron, and on this plate the vise turns to
right or left as may be desired. It is held in position by screwing up
a nut by means of a handle underneath the bench. The jaws are of steel,
and a small projection back of the jaws, formed like a small anvil,
is very convenient for bending work or to lay work upon for cutting,
working with prick punch, etc. The width of jaws of No. 22, the size
that is most convenient, is three and five-eighths inches, the weight
about thirty-five or forty pounds, and the price about eight dollars, or
perhaps a little more. This vise is shown in Fig. 17.
[Illustration: FIGURE 17.]
As the jaws of the vise where the steel faces come together are cut like
a file and tempered, they will necessarily mar or bruise the work. Pieces
of brass or copper must be bent so as to be retained in place and at the
same time cover the file-like surface of the jaws. Pieces of leather,
common belt leather, upon which a little beeswax has been spread, may be
placed between the jaws, and by forcing them together with the screw the
leather will be retained in place. In holding barrels, stocks, and for
stocking a fixture made like the cut, Fig. 18, is best. Two pieces of
thin board, or even two pieces of a wide barrel stave may make it. The
opening is for the purpose of “straddling” the square box of the vise
that encloses the screw. Nail a piece of wood about an inch and a half
thick across the bottom part, before the opening is made, and also nail a
thin piece across the top of the pieces, being careful to sink the nail
heads to as to not mar the work. The top ends of the fixture must come
even with the top of the vise jaws.
[Illustration: FIGURE 18.]
For holding screws without damaging the heads use a pair of false jaws
made of cast brass, like those shown in Fig. 19. The heads being held in
the indentations formed along the upper edges of the fixture. For holding
rods or small square pieces without injury a similar pair of false jaws
are made which are shown in Fig. 20.
[Illustration: FIGURE 19.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 20.]
For holding articles that are tapering a fixture is required like that
given in Fig. 21. The yoke clasps the neck of the vise, and is held in
place by a set-screw. The upright pin is received in the yoke by turning
on a screw cut for the purpose, and by turning this up or down, the
triangular piece at the upper part is made to accommodate itself to the
height of the vise. The back angular corner of this piece has a bearing
against the jaw of the vise, and the opening made between the other jaw
of the vise and the front of this angular piece will be the same as the
piece of work that is held between the two.
[Illustration: FIGURE 21.]
_Shanks of Tools._—The best two sizes for shanks of tools are about
seven-sixteenths and about quarter-inch. Two solid chucks, fitted with
set-screws, may be made for the lathe, and they will be found sufficient
for all kinds of work. If half-inch octagon steel be used for the larger
size, a light chip turned off for about an inch and a quarter, or an inch
and a half, will make the shank. From this size steel may be made large
drills, reamers, countersinks, bullet cherries, etc. The shanks of many
other tools may be made to this standard. When a bit stock is fitted to
hold this size of shank, the tools may be used either in the lathe or by
hand with the bit stock.
Octagon steel, a quarter-inch in diameter, may be used for smaller
tools, or round steel rod of this size may be employed. For small drills
and tools, taps, etc., it will be found very convenient. No turning is
necessary to fit to the solid chuck.
The common cheap bit stock, made from round steel, may be selected, and
the square hole filled with a piece of iron and then brazed to make it
solid. A hole is then drilled to fit the seven-sixteenths shank. A solid
chuck is to be made to fit this, and drilled with a quarter-inch hole to
fit the smaller sized shanks. This solid chuck will also fit the chuck
for the lathe. If barrel boring tools, quick boring reamers, be made with
the larger sized shank, they can be used both in the lathe and with the
bit stock.
CHAPTER IX.
THE WORK BENCH.
_Material for the Work Bench._—The first thing to do in fitting up a shop
is to put up a work bench. Do not make a rude affair of an unplaned plank
and a rough board, but let it be seen that you fitted up your bench for
use, and at the same time sought to have it neat and durable. A plank two
inches thick is heavy enough, yet in some respects it is light enough;
for the front portion of the bench twelve or fourteen inches is a good
width. Pine wood makes a very good bench, but as it is soft, it will
absorb oil, and in time will become black and dirty. As a remedy for
this, give it two or three coats of shellac varnish. The best bench is
made from a hard or sugar maple plank that has been well seasoned and has
been planed true in a planing machine. Ash wood does very well, so does
beech. Oak is not good; it absorbs grease and dirt readily, and if struck
much with a hammer will soon show splinters, the fibres of the wood
easily separating by the blows. A hard maple plank has one advantage;
after being discarded as a bench, it will make good rifle stocks; the
years of use will so season it that it will be valuable. For that part
of the bench—that is, back of the two-inch plank—use a board ten or
twelve inches wide. Select pine or any other kind that fancy may dictate.
Calculate the plank and board so that the width of the bench will be
twenty-two or twenty-four inches.
_How to Make the Work Bench._—For supports for the bench use 2 × 4 inch
studding, such as carpenters use in house building. Pine, oak or any
other material will answer. Plane smooth on all sides. For each support
cut three pieces; two of the height of the bench, and one about an inch
less than the width, so that when the bench is made the plank in front
projects an inch or so in front of the supports. As the short piece on
which the bench rests is four inches wide, cut away half of the thickness
of the uprights of this width at the upper end, and cut enough in length
to receive the short piece, when it is halved together—as is the term
used—thus making it four inches thick when put in place. Fasten with
nails or screws—the latter being the best fastening. To keep these
uprights steady, nail a piece of board about three inches wide, and about
twelve inches from the bottom, from front to the rear upright. On these
pieces a board or two may be placed, with the other end resting upon a
neighboring support, and it forms a convenient shelf upon which to place
boxes and other things that will soon accumulate in any shop.
The height of bench from the floor may be about two feet and ten inches
and a half. This will be found to be the most convenient height.
_Putting the Vise in Place._—In putting the vise in place, fix it on the
bench far enough in front so that if a gun stock or barrel were held
upright in the jaws it will not touch the bench. If there be a window in
front, put it a little to the left of the window. The light will then
shine more on the right side of the vise, and consequently it will be
more easy to distinguish lines or marks that may be made on work held in
the jaws, as it is more convenient to look on the right side of work to
see what is being done than on the left. The height of the vise at the
top of the jaws should be on a level with the elbow of the person who
is to work at it. In no instance try to work with the jaws of the vise
higher than the elbows as the workman stands erect before it. The reason
is this: as the workman grasps the file handle in the right hand and
the point of the file in the left, the arms are in a natural position,
and can be thrust forward and brought back in a horizontal line. If the
elbows were to be raised from the natural position the horizontal forward
and back motion could not be made with facility.
_Place for Drawer._—A few inches to the right of the vise is the best
location for a drawer. This is generally opened or drawn out with the
right hand, and when so placed can be readily opened with that hand
without stepping to one side.
_The Gun Brace._—A gun brace, as shown in Fig. 22, is made from a piece
of inch and a half or two inch plank, with its upper edge of a height
about an inch less than the height of the vise jaws. It is hinged
or pivoted by a single screw passing through the end of the bottom
extension, this screw passing into the bench, the brace turning freely
upon it. It can be swung around back out of the way, and when needed for
use is turned in front, and is ready to support a barrel or gun stock
which is held in the vise. This brace is put to the right of the vise,
but if another one like it is put in the left side it will be found
useful at times.
[Illustration: FIGURE 22.]
In cutting out gun-stocks from the plank, many times pieces of just the
right form for these braces will be found among the “scraps” that will
be made. The shape is of little moment so long as they are of the proper
height and have an extension through which to put the pivot screw.
_To Deaden the Noise of Hammering._—In shops, especially if the work-room
be in an upper story, to deaden the noise of hammering, etc., put
pieces of rubber under the legs of work benches, the feet of lathes,
anvil-block, etc. If rubber cannot be obtained, any woolen texture as
felt or thick loose-made cloth may answer the purpose, but not with so
good results as the rubber. The anvil may be set in a tub made by cutting
off the top of a barrel to the right height and filling it nearly full of
sand or earth.
CHAPTER X.
ON WORKING IN IRON.
_Hand-Forging._—Two rates of heat figure in this operation. If the
object is merely a smoothing of the surface of the iron, the “cherry-red
heat,” so-called, is the rate wanted. The work of smoothing is performed
by striking lightly and evenly with the hand-hammer, until the desired
condition is secured. The same degree of heat is employed where
hammer-hardening the iron is one of the objects to be obtained; in this
case the blows with the hammer must be heavier than in the case first
named.
If the forging is to extend to a material change in the shape of the
iron, the rate of heat must be much higher; it must be increased to what
smiths call the “white flame heat.” The hammering must be much heavier,
of course; if the piece is large a sledge-hammer must be brought into
requisition. But the gunsmith will seldom have work heavy enough to
demand the aid of an assistant with a sledge-hammer.
_Welding._—The “welding” or “sparkling heat” is required in this process,
which is a higher degree of heat than either named in the forgoing. In
securing this heat, the metal is brought nearly to a state of fusion;
which condition is made known by its sparkling, and presenting the
appearance of being covered with a glaze, or a fresh coat of varnish.
So soon as the two pieces of iron to be welded together have both
attained to this necessary degree of heat, they are taken from the fire
with the utmost dispatch, the scales or dirt which would hinder their
incorporation scraped off, placed in contact at the heated point, and
hammered until a union has been effected, and no seam or fissure remains
visible. If the first effort fails to unite them sufficiently, they must
be reheated and rehammered until the desired end is secured.
The fire for welding should be free from sulphur; and the iron, while
heating, should be taken out now and then and sprinkled over at the point
of greatest heat with powdered glass, or with powdered borax. A small
proportion of sand or powdered clay is sometimes mixed with the borax.
These applications tend to prevent the iron from running or burning, and
they are supposed to assist the adhesion when the two pieces are brought
together in the act of welding.
_Hardening Iron by Hammering._—Iron may be hardened to the character of
a pretty fair spring metal by simply hammering it thoroughly while in a
cold state. Many of the cheap spiral springs in use, as those attached to
small bells for the purpose of imparting a vibratory motion, are hardened
or stiffened in this way. They are first cut from soft sheet-iron and
then hammered into the required hardness. Some heat to a cherry red and
hammer to and after entire coldness.
_Case-Hardening._—The various parts of gun mountings, such as guards,
heel plates, etc., and the different parts of locks, such as hammers,
tumblers, triggers and plates, as received by the gunsmith from the
manufacturer or dealer in such articles, are generally in the rough or
partially finished condition. Many gunsmiths, particularly those in the
country, where there is more or less a class of cheap work, finish up
these parts with a file and a little hand polishing, and when the work
is put together hand it over to the customer. Not only tumblers and
triggers, but even sears and tubes are finished up in this manner. As
these parts are almost always made of soft iron, the result is they soon
wear and have to be repaired.
The gunsmith who does good work will thoroughly case-harden the parts
when they are fitted and finished, and by so doing will turn out a really
good piece of work that will wear as well as hardened steel. Why the
majority of the trade do not case-harden their work cannot very well be
explained, unless they are ignorant of the process or do not care to be
put to the trouble of doing it. It is true it may be made a tedious job
or a quick and easy one.
Some gunsmiths, when such work is finished, heat it red hot, smear it
with prussiate of potash or cyanide of potassium, and while hot, plunge
it into cold water, letting it chill. This produces a superficially
hardened surface that is not “skin deep,” and as soon as this surface
becomes abraded will wear away rapidly.
If the case-hardening of the expert manufacturer be examined, it will be
observed that the surface of such work has a fine grayish appearance, and
in many places mottled with colored tints that are pleasing and beautiful
to the mechanical eye. It will be further observed that the hardening is
of such depth that it will wear for a long time. In fact it will wear
better than hardened steel. The condition of the material is that of a
hardened steel surface stretched over and shrunk upon the iron body of
the work. It is stronger than steel, for it has the tenacity of iron
for its interior. It has the advantage of steel, inasmuch as it may be
bent when cold to a limited degree, and when so hardened will not break
as readily as steel. This property of bending is not confined to all
articles, as they may case-harden entirely through, and then they will
be very brittle and easily broken, but by drawing them to temper after
hardening, in the same manner as a tool is drawn to temper, they may be
of any hardness desired.
_A good way to Case-Harden._—The easiest and perhaps the best way to
case-harden gun work is to have a number of short pieces of common gas
pipe, such as will be adapted to the size or quantity of the work, and
have one end of these pieces securely plugged or closed. One way will be
to heat the pipe and close by flattening the end with a hammer on the
anvil, but it is a “slouchy” way of doing it. A neater way is to have a
gas fitter cut a thread in the pipe and then screw in a plug, such as are
used to close ends of gas pipe; if such cannot be obtained, drive in a
cast-iron plug and upset the end of the pipe so that it will not readily
come out. In these pieces of pipe place the work, packing it well with
good, fine bone-dust, such as is used by farmers for fertilizing land. Be
careful to so pack that the different pieces of work will not touch each
other. Stop the open end of the pipe with a cover, but in such a manner
as to be readily opened; place the pipe and its contents in a good fire,
letting it remain at a red heat for fifteen minutes or more, dependent
upon the thickness of the articles or the depth they should be hardened.
Remove from the fire and quickly empty the contents of the pipe into a
pail of cold water.
If pieces of gas pipe cannot very well be obtained, thimbles from old
carriage hubs may be used instead. Plug up the small end, fit a cover
to the large end and use as if it were gas pipe. As these thimbles are
made of cast iron they will not bear the rough usage nor the heat that
wrought iron will withstand. Common cast malleable iron makes the best
receptacles to contain work for case-hardening.
Articles of malleable iron and cast iron are as easily case-hardened as
wrought iron. A poor quality of steel is benefited by the operation, as
the metal imbibes carbon in which it was before deficient.
_Material for Case-Hardening._—For case-hardening, bone-dust is the
article most readily obtained and it is clean and neat to use; but it
will not produce the mottled tints that charred or burned leather will
give. The leather may be prepared by cutting up old shoes or boots,
putting them in an old pan and setting the mass on fire. Let it burn
until it is a charcoal that will readily crumble in pieces by using a
little force. Grind this charcoal to a fine powder by pounding in a
mortar or by running it through an old coffee or spice mill. Pack the
work with the powder, the same as bone-dust. Bone-black may be used the
same as bone-dust, but it is not very satisfactory in its results. It
is also dirty to use and to have around a shop. Ivory dust will also
answer the same purpose as bone-dust. Gun guards, straps, and long
pieces of work will become shorter by case-hardening, and it is best not
to fit such pieces into the stock until after they are hardened. If it
be desired to have a portion of the work left soft and the other parts
hardened, securely cover the places to be left soft, with a coating of
moist clay, and this will prevent the hardening material from coming in
contact, and, consequently, it will have no opportunity to absorb carbon
and harden when put in the cold water.
It may also be observed that articles that are case-hardened will not
rust so readily as those not so treated.
If the articles be quite thin and there be danger of their cracking
by sudden chilling, the water may be warmed a little, or a film of
oil may be spread on the water which will tend to prevent a too sudden
contraction of the articles while cooling.
If it be desired to have the work present the colors or mottled tints as
seen on some kinds of case-hardened gun work, the surface of the work
before being put in the receptacles containing the burnt leather, must be
nicely polished and then buffed or burnished. The higher the finish the
more brilliant will be the colors.
In using prussiate of potash to case-harden, the potash must be finely
powdered, the work heated and dipped in, or if the work be large the
potash must be spread over it. The work must be hot enough to fuse the
potash, and if it become somewhat cold by removing from the fire it must
be reheated, removed quickly from the fire and quenched in cold water.
_Another way to Case-Harden._—Collect such articles of animal origin as
cows’ horns, or hoofs of either cows or horses, or leather trimmings
from about the shoe-shops, or old cast off boots or shoes, and burn
them until sufficiently charred to admit of being easily pounded into
a powder. Having finished up the article to be hardened, ready for the
final polish, place it in an iron box, and surround it completely on all
sides by a packing of the powder. Pour into the box, until the powder is
made moist, a saturated solution of common salt in urine. Next close the
box and seal it until airtight, with wet and well-worked clay, then put
it into the furnace and blow up gradually until heated to a cherry red.
Don’t run the heat any higher, but hold it at that about five minutes,
then take out and plunge at once into the slack-tub.
By this means a piece of soft malleable iron is rendered as hard as
hardened steel. Some workmen contend that the salt solution is of no
particular importance—that just as good results will come of packing in
the animal charcoal alone. The iron box, though very convenient when a
good deal of case-hardening is to be done, is not an absolute necessity.
If the article, surrounded by the animal charcoal, is incased in a ball
of stiff and well-worked clay, and then exposed to the proper heat and
slacking, the results will be the same as if heated in an iron box.
_Another Formula._—In earlier times, when guns were more in use than
either agricultural or mechanical implements, and there was a gunsmith’s
shop at almost every cross-road, they had a way of case-hardening
that was much more simple than either of the foregoing, and yet quite
effectual. Scraps of old leather, as cut from old boots or shoes, were
tightly wrapped and tied around the piece of iron to be made hard, to the
extent of several thicknesses. Around this was placed a layer of sand
and salt in equal proportions, to the thickness of half an inch. The
sand and salt was dampened with water to make it stick together. A layer
of plastic clay, an inch in thickness, was worked around the whole, and
the ball, so made, was exposed to heat at about the cherry-red degree,
sufficiently long to consume the leather, when it was dropped suddenly
into the slack-tub.
_Still Another Formula._—Make a powder of pulverized prussiate of potash,
sal-ammoniac and saltpetre in equal parts. Heat the iron to cherry-red
and sprinkle thoroughly on all sides with the powder, then immediately
plunge into the slack-tub.
Some smiths contend that the pulverized prussiate of potash, used in the
same way, is entirely effectual without the other ingredients.
_To Chill Cast Iron._—Make a powder by pulverizing together, salt, 2
lbs.; saltpetre, ½ lb.; alum, ½ lb.; ammonia, 4 ozs., and salts of
tartar, 4 ozs. Heat the iron to cherry-red, sprinkle thoroughly with the
powder and then plunge into cold water.
_Another Mode._—Make a solution by dissolving in 10 gallons of soft
water, salt, 1 peck; oil vitriol, ½ pint; saltpetre, ½ lb.; prussiate
of potash, ¼ lb., and cyanide of potassium, ½ lb. Heat the iron to
cherry-red and plunge at once into the cold solution. This makes cast
iron hard enough to cut glass, and is the method usually resorted to for
hardening the cheap cast-iron glass cutters, now so common on the market.
_To Soften Wrought Iron._—Heat the iron with a slow blast to a dark-red,
then pour upon the burning coals half a pint of fluoric acid. Keep up
the blast gently, without increasing the degree of heat, until all sign
of the acid has disappeared, then lay out the iron to cool gradually of
itself.
_Alloy for Filling Holes in Iron._—Melt together nine parts lead, two
parts antimony and one part bismuth. Pour into the hole while in a molten
state, or drive in while the iron is somewhat hot. This alloy possesses
the peculiarity of expanding as it cools, consequently the plug tightens
as its temperature falls.
_To Harden Iron for Polishing._—Pulverize and dissolve the
following-named articles in one quart of boiling water: blue vitriol, 1
ounce; borax, 1 ounce; prussiate of potash, 1 ounce; charcoal, 1 ounce,
and common salt, ½ pint. Add to this 1 gallon raw linseed oil. Having
finished up the article ready for polishing, heat it to a cherry-red, and
plunge into the mixture; a rapid stirring of the mixture should be going
on at the time when the plunge is made.
This preparation hardens the iron to such a degree that it takes and
retains polish almost equal to the best of steel.
CHAPTER XI.
ON WORKING IN STEEL.
_Hand-Forging Steel._—In the main this does not differ materially from
the same work in iron. Special care must be exercised to have the fire
clear of sulphur, hence charcoal is the best fuel to use. In cases where
the use of bituminous coal cannot be avoided, the fire should be blowed
up for several minutes before putting in the steel, to drive off the
sulphur.
Steel to be forged should not be heated to so high a degree as is
employed for iron; for ordinary light work a little above a cherry-red is
enough. It does not work well under a high degree of heat; and, to make
amends, it can be worked much colder than iron. In fact, it is always
best to hammer it with light blows until the red color of the heat has
entirely disappeared, as this improves its texture by adding decidedly to
the closeness of the grain.
_Welding Steel._—The common method employed for welding iron to iron is
often resorted to for welding steel to steel, but a great deal more care
is necessary to success in the latter than in the former case. There must
be much precision so far as relates to the rate of heat, as the margin
for variation is extremely small. If the temperature is not high enough
there will be no adhesion, of course; and if it attains to only a few
degrees above what is actually necessary, the steel either “runs” and
is ruined, or is ruined by going into an unworkable condition known as
“burnt.” It sometimes becomes necessary to weld steel and iron together;
this may be effected by the same process as that employed in welding
steel to steel. None but workmen of thorough experience would be apt to
succeed in either case, on the old plan of proceeding the same as in
welding iron to iron.
But steel may be more easily welded than on the old plan by the
employment of certain welding compositions. One of them consists of
half a pound of saltpetre dissolved in half a pound of oil of vitriol,
and afterwards added to two gallons of soft water. Heat the pieces to a
cherry-red, then plunge them into this composition; after which proceed
to reheat and weld in the usual way. At the welding the strokes of the
hammer should be quick and light.
Another composition is made by pulverizing together ten parts of borax
and one part of sal-ammoniac. Thoroughly melt the composition so made
in an iron pot, then pour out upon some level surface to cool. When
cooled grind to a fine powder. Heat the pieces of steel and sprinkle this
welding powder over them; then return to the fire, and again heat up, and
it is ready to go together under the hammer.
Some smiths claim to weld steel successfully by dusting over the heated
pieces a powder composed of clear white sand, 2 lbs., and plaster of
Paris, 1 lb.; then reheating and proceeding in the usual way.
In welding steel to iron the foregoing processes are employed the same as
if both pieces were steel.
_Tempering._—Heat the steel to a bright cherry-red, and plunge it at once
into cold water. It will then be as hard as fire and water could make
it, and too hard for anything except hardened bearings for machinery, or
for some kind of implements necessary to be extremely hard, as tools for
cutting glass, and the like. In this condition it is almost as brittle
as glass itself, and hence would not stand for most of the uses to which
tempered steel is applied. Its great degree of hardness must, therefore,
be reduced to the proper standard, depending upon what it is to be used
for. This is done by heating and closely observing the resulting colors
as they appear upon the metal. If the piece under process is an edge-tool
of considerable bulk, only the cutting-edge, and a little back of it, is
plunged into the water at the hardening, the rest of the implement being
left still hot. It is then held into the light and observed closely, when
the different colors, indicating the different degrees of hardness, will
be seen moving slowly, one after the other, down towards the edge, driven
by the heat still left in the part of the metal not plunged. When the
color wanted has reached the edge, the entire piece is plunged into the
slack-tub, which stops further action of the heat, and establishes the
required degree of hardness exactly where it is desired. But very light
articles and implements cannot be tempered in this way, as they will
not retain sufficient heat to drive the colors; it will be necessary to
reheat them gradually in some way to make the colors move. Very light
pieces, as drills and the like, are best tempered in a spirit or alcohol
lamp; after having been hardened they should be held in the flame of the
lamp a little back of the point or cutting-edge, which will enable the
operator to note the movement of the colors. In this case his actions,
so far as the colors are concerned, will be governed the same as in the
other. Small articles to be tempered alike all over may be placed upon a
bit of sheet-iron, after hardening, and the iron held over the fire of
the forge, or directly over the flame of the lamp, until the required
color has appeared, when they must be quickly plunged into the water.
On large articles the colors will be often so strongly marked as to be
readily seen on the surface of the metal, rough, just as it came from the
hammer, but in small articles they will be somewhat faint; hence it is
best to give small articles a slight polish before exposing them to heat
for drawing the temper. Nine shades of color will present themselves one
after the other as a piece of thoroughly-hardened steel is exposed to
gradually-increasing heat. They are:
1. Very faint yellow, appearing at a temperature of 430° Fahrenheit.
If slacked at this color, the piece will be very hard, having a temper
admirably suited to drills for working in hard metals or hard stone.
2. Pale straw-color—450°. Still very hard, suitable for the faces of
hammers and anvils.
3. Full yellow—470°. Shears and scissors.
4. Brown—490°. Gravers and turning-tools for hard metals; also
percussion-lock gun tubes.
5. Brown, with purple spots—510°. Wood-working tools and most of the
steel parts in a gun-lock with the exception of the springs; also knives
of all sorts for cutting wood.
6. Purple—538°. Butcher-knives and other flesh-cutting implements.
7. Dark blue—550°. Tools requiring strong cutting-edges without extreme
hardness, as case-knives.
8. Full blue—560°. Chopping-axes.
9. Grayish blue, verging on black—600°. Springs, saws, swords, and the
like.
Various other methods of tempering steel are sometimes recommended, as
with oils, tallow, lead, mercury and divers solutions; but since the
matter-of-fact gunsmith will find use for none of them, it is not deemed
proper to encumber this book with anything further on the subject of
tempering. It might be well to state, however, that the hardest degree
to which steel can be brought is secured by heating the piece to a light
yellow and instantly plunging it into cold mercury.
_To Restore “Burnt” Steel._—Pulverize together two parts horn or hoof
filings; one part sal ammoniac; one part charcoal, and one part common
soda. When thoroughly ground together, work in tallow enough to make
a kind of wax or paste. Bring the damaged steel to a bright cherry-red
heat, and then cover with the paste, leaving it to cool gradually.
The process may be repeated several times with profit if considered
necessary. While a piece of badly-burnt steel may not be entirely
restored by this process, it can be much improved. Entire restoration is
scarcely possible.
_Annealing Steel._—Heat the steel to a cherry-red in a charcoal fire, the
last thing to be done before quitting work at the forge for the day or
night; then smother the fire down with a thick layer of ashes or sawdust,
leaving the steel in, just as heated. Let so remain until the fire is all
out, and the steel entirely cool, which will require several hours. Some
smiths use a piece of gas-pipe in which to heat small steel articles for
annealing, claiming that it is very advantageous. They put the piece into
the pipe and heat to a cherry red, looking in occasionally to ascertain
when it has attained to that temperature; then they cover the fire, pipe
and all, and leave it to cool as in the other case.
_To Blue Steel._—Polish the article to be blued, then place it upon a
strip of sheet iron and heat slowly over a forge fire or lamp, until the
desired blue color appears. Let cool, and the color will remain permanent.
_To Remove Blue Color from Steel._—Immerse for a few minutes in a liquid
composed of equal parts muriatic acid and oil of vitriol. Rinse in pure
water and rub dry with chamois skin or some kind of soft cloth.
_Tempering Knife Blades._—To heat the blades lay them in a clear charcoal
fire, with the _cutting edge downwards_, and heat very slowly. It is not
particular if the back of the blade, which is _uppermost_, is so very
hot or not. Harden in clean luke-warm water. If many blades are to be
hardened at once, lay a number in the fire and remove one at a time as
they are properly heated. To temper, brighten one side on a grindstone or
emery wheel so that the temper color can be seen, and lay the blades in
the fire, or on an iron plate heated over the fire, with the backs _down_
and the cutting edges _uppermost_. On the plate place wood ashes or fine
sand to help keep the blades in proper position, and also facilitate even
drawing. When the proper color is seen on the brightened portion of the
cutting edge, remove and cool in cold water.
When an extra tough blade is wanted, after it is hardened, handle it so
that it will not draw any lower after removing from the fire, and let it
cool without putting in water.
Long blades, when they are being drawn, can be straightened, if
necessary, by putting them between two pins in the anvil or pins fixed
in an iron block and bending between these until straight, wetting the
blade with a cloth or sponge saturated with water, when the blade is thus
straightened. Surprising as it may seem, when hardened steel is being
drawn, it can be bent to quite an extent, and when cooled will remain
as bent. File makers straighten files in this manner. Sword blades and
blades of butchers’ knives undergo the same process of manipulation to
be made straight.
_The Lead Bath for Tempering._—Among the many secrets of tempering is
the employment of the lead bath, which is simply a quantity of molten
lead, contained in a suitable receptacle and kept hot over a fire. The
uses of this bath are many. For instance, if it be desired to heat an
article that is thick in one portion and thin in another, every one who
has had experience in such work knows how difficult it is to heat the
thick portion without overheating the thin part. If the lead bath be made
and kept at a red heat, no matter how thick the article may be, provided
sufficient time be given, both the thick and thin parts will be evenly
and equally heated, and at the same time get no hotter than the bath in
which they are immersed.
For heating thin cutting blades, springs, surgical instruments, softening
the tangs of tools, etc., this bath is unequaled.
If a portion of an article be required to be left soft, as the end of a
spring that is to be bent or riveted, the entire may be tempered, and
the end to be soft may be safely drawn in the lead bath to the lowest
point that steel can be annealed without disturbing in the least the
temper of the part not plunged in the bath. Springs, or articles made of
spring brass, may be treated in the same manner. One great advantage in
using the lead bath is that there is no risk of breakage or shrinkage of
the metal at the water line, as is often the case when tempered by the
method of heating and chilling in cold water.
As lead slowly oxidizes at a red heat, two methods may be used to prevent
it. One is to cover the surface of the lead with a layer of fine charcoal
or even wood ashes. Another and a better plan, when the work will admit
of its use, is to float on the top of the lead a thin iron plate, fitting
the vessel in which the lead is contained, but having a hole in the
centre or on one side, as most convenient, and large enough to readily
admit the articles to be tempered or softened.
_Test for Good Steel._—Break the bar of steel and observe the grain,
which in good steel should be fine and present a silvery look, with
sometimes an exfoliated or leaf-like appearance. One of the best tests
of steel is to make a cold chisel from the bar to be tested, and when
carefully tempered (be careful not to overheat), try it upon a piece of
wrought iron bar. The blows given will pretty correctly tell its tenacity
and capability of holding temper. Remember the temper you gave it, and if
it proves tough and serviceable, take this temper as a guide and temper
other tools in like manner. Inferior steel is easily broken, and the
fracture presents a dull, even appearance, which may very appropriately
be termed a lifeless look.
_Etching on Steel._—Make an etching solution by pulverizing together
sulphate of copper, one ounce; alum, one-quarter ounce, and common salt,
one-half teaspoonful. Add one gill strong vinegar and twenty drops
nitric acid. Stir till thoroughly dissolved. Polish up the metal to
be etched, and then cover its polished surface with a thin coating of
bees-wax. This can be accomplished with neatness by simply heating the
metal till the wax flows evenly over its surface. Now draw upon the wax,
cutting cleanly through to the steel the figure you wish to etch; then
cover the figure so prepared with the etching solution, and let stand for
a short time, depending upon the depth of cut desired. Finally rinse off
with clear water, and then remove the bees-wax. It will be found that the
solution has cut into the surface of the steel wherever exposed, leaving
untouched all parts covered by the wax.
Very good etching can be done by applying, on the foregoing plan, nitric
acid alone. Etching offers a good method of cutting a man’s name on his
gun or pistol. It works on silver or brass the same.
CHAPTER XII.
ON WORKING IN SILVER, COPPER AND BRASS.
_To Forge Silver._—The gunsmith will not have much to do with silver
in the work of his trade, though instances may occur now and then when
he will be called upon to make or repair mountings or ornaments for
gun-stocks formed of this metal, and also foresights, particularly for
the old fashioned Kentucky rifle.
In shaping silver under the hammer no heat will be necessary at the
hammering—it would do no good. The metal is so malleable that it may be
drawn into almost any shape by simply hammering cold. The only trouble
liable to come up in this kind of work will be the hardening of the
metal under the influence of the hammer; but this trouble may be pretty
effectually removed by heating the silver to redness, and then letting
it cool gradually of itself. Care must be taken not to heat it too much
above the first appearance of red, as it melts quite easily.
_To Polish Silver._—File it down to the shape desired, then dress with
a fine file; then work over thoroughly with a burnisher. Next buff it
off with rotten stone, and if a particularly fine finish is desired buff
again with rouge.
_Light Plate for Copper or Brass._—Dissolve silver in nitric acid by
the assistance of heat; put some pieces of copper into the solution and
immediately the silver will be precipitated. With fifteen or twenty
grains of the precipitate thus obtained mix half a drachm of alum and
two drachms each of tartar and common salt. Pulverize well together.
Having thoroughly cleaned the surface to be plated, rub it well and hard
with the mixture, using a bit of chamois skin, until it presents a white
appearance. Next polish off with soft leather until bright.
Inferior as this kind of plating would seem, it will wear a long time.
_To Clean Silver._—Wash with a little spirits of ammonia reduced in
strength by twice its bulk of pure water, then rub dry and bright with
soft leather. No kind of polishing powder will be necessary. Some workmen
clean silver by first washing it over with diluted muriatic acid, then
immediately covering the surface with dry prepared chalk, then brushing
off and rubbing clean with a bit of chamois skin. It acts very well, but
care must be had to get the acid thoroughly cleaned off else it will have
a tendency to soon tarnish the silver.
_To Work Copper._—This metal is almost as malleable as silver, and
works very well under the hammer in a cold state. Heat adds nothing to
its malleability, though, as in the case of silver, exposure to a low
degree of heat, followed by gradual cooling, softens it somewhat when it
has been rendered hard and brittle by long hammering. It polishes very
well, but does not long retain its polish and brilliancy on account of
its disposition to oxidize. Heating increases its oxidation; repeatedly
heating and cooling would soon wear it entirely away.
_To Work Brass._—This material is a combination of copper and zinc, and
since zinc is not so malleable as copper, it renders the brass less
malleable. Nevertheless it forges out pretty well under the hammer, in a
cold state, the only condition in which it can be so worked. Hammering
increases its hardness with great rapidity, soon converting it into a
very fair spring metal. Brass springs are quite common—they are all made
by repeatedly hammering or rolling the metal while cold. As in the case
of both silver and copper, heating and gradual cooling removes this
hardness. This is the plan for softening usually recommended in books on
working metals, but no advantage will be found to arise from the gradual
cooling in the case of either silver, copper or brass. The custom is to
heat the metal to the lowest degree that would show redness and then
plunge it directly into cold water.
_To Cast Brass._—The gunsmith may occasionally find it necessary to cast
something in brass. This he can do without trouble, as brass melts quite
easily. The mould should have vents at or near the top to admit the
free escape of air as the molten metal runs in to take its place; and
it is always best, if possible, to arrange so that the metal will enter
the mould near the bottom and rise up in the filling. Without such an
arrangement there is danger of air bubbles remaining under the metal and
spoiling the casting. The metal should be heated only to a degree high
enough to admit of flowing freely and no higher.
_To Brass Iron._—Clean and polish the iron thoroughly, being extremely
careful not to touch its surface with the fingers at the finishing;
then plunge it into molten brass. Take out immediately; a thin coating
of brass will be found covering the iron, which may be polished or
burnished, giving the article the appearance of solid brass.
_To Clean Brass._—To half a pint of soft water add one tablespoonful
of oxalic acid. Wash the article with this, then cover with prepared
chalk, brush dry and polish with chamois skin, as in cleaning silver. The
solution may be bottled and kept on hand for use as wanted.
_To Solder Brass._—The processes in soft soldering are the same for
all metals, full instructions for which may be found in Chapter XXXIV.
Hard soldering (see also Chapter XXXIV) is something different, and in
the case of brass it is somewhat different on account of the low degree
of temperature at which the metal melts. The solder most commonly used
is composed of two parts of common brass and one part of zinc, melted
together. Reduce your solder to fine bits by cutting or filing, and then
mix with sal-ammoniac and borax, the two latter having been pulverized
together in equal parts and moistened with water to form a kind of paste.
Carefully clean the pieces to be joined, lay them together, place the
soldering compound along the upper edge of the joint, which must be held
vertically, and then heat gradually over a charcoal fire until the solder
is seen to run down between the pieces. The instant the solder is seen
to run remove the work from the fire, tap the work gently with a small
hammer to jar the solder into all interstices, and, if the work be so
that it can be done, scrape off the superfluous solder and burnt borax
with an old file.
CHAPTER XIII.
ON WORKING IN WOOD.
_The Woods Most in Use._—Various woods are now employed for making gun
stocks, but among them all, the most popular, perhaps, is black walnut.
It is deservedly so from the fact that it is light, works easily, takes a
superior polish, has a rich dark color, naturally, and when finished up
does not incline to “check.” So popular is it, indeed, that most of the
other woods worked into gun stocks are stained and finished up to imitate
walnut.
In some portions of the country hard or sugar maple (“sugar tree”) is
worked quite extensively by the local gunsmiths. It makes a very nice
stock, finishing to good advantage, especially “curled maple,” which
is really beautiful. Soft maple is also extensively used, stained and
finished to imitate either hard maple or walnut.
The common dogwood makes an excellent gun-stock, but it works badly on
account of the smallness of the tree rendering it difficult for one to
get the pieces sawed out in proper shape at the beginning. Holly also
makes a good stock, but presents the same objection as the dogwood.
Cherry has few superiors, but it is now becoming a very scarce wood.
Sweet gum is getting to be quite extensively used for cheap guns, stained
to imitate either walnut or cherry. It has fine grain, and works very
well, the chief objection to it being that it is wonderfully inclined to
warp.
_Wood for Gun Stocks._—The wood for a gun stock should combine strength
and lightness, and at the same time it is desirable that it be easy to
cut. The fibres of the wood should be close and possess great cohesion
and should be little liable to split.
In this country black-walnut is generally selected for shot guns, and
either black-walnut or hard maple for rifles. The grain of the wood
should be straight at the small of the stock, which is the weakest
portion of the work. Between this and the end of the breech it little
matters how the grain runs. If there be curls, waves or a hard knot, let
it come about midway between the small and the end of the butt. As the
wood at this place is simply “rounded” it is easy to work it into shape,
as the shape given to it is such that any deviation of the fibres or
grain from a straight line can be shown to the best advantage, also at
this place there is less demand for strength of wood than at any other
part of the gun stock. Around the small it is very necessary that the
grain be straight and run in the direction of the shape given and also
continue straight until past the place where the locks are set in. A
little distance in front of the barrel breech it matters but little how
the grain runs, but if the fibres of the wood where the barrel is let in
run toward the breech it will be found to be easier to work out for the
reception of the barrel. For then as the tools are worked toward the
breech they are cutting _with_ the fibres or grain and not _against_ it.
But as the majority of guns are now half-stocked the distance to cut in
order to let in a barrel is so small that but little attention need be
paid to the grain at this spot.
The best and most serviceable stocks are those made from parts of the
tree where large branches join the trunk. In these parts, too, will be
found the curled and irregular grain that is so much admired when the
stock is so made that these irregularities come in the stock a little
in front of the butt plate. When large trees are cut down, it will be
observed very often that there are portions of the stump that have a
kind of convex form, and extending downward terminate in large roots. If
these be dug out or separated from the stump by splitting them, they are
almost always of a proper shape, to have the grain run nearly straight in
the curves as given to the stock. In black-walnut and hard maple these
root portions are very firm of fibre, quite hard and have a splendid
grain that finishes up beautifully. Portions of some root pieces have a
mottled appearance and are of a different color from the wood as cut from
the trunk of the tree; this is especially the case with black-walnut. As
these stumps can be had by the trouble of removing them, the gunsmith can
very cheaply secure pieces of wood that are very valuable. Oftentimes
black-walnut stumps are found floating in the water, and on the banks
of western rivers, that are perfectly sound and so darkened by water
soaking that they make beautiful stocks.
The dryness and fitness of the wood may be ascertained by the easy
crumbling of the shavings and by the dryness of the sawdust. It is
necessary that the wood be well seasoned, for if any moisture or sap
remains in it, the barrel and portions of the lock that come in contact
with the wood, will in a short time be covered with rust.
CHAPTER XIV.
ON GUN STOCKS.
_Form of Gun Stocks._—When a customer orders a stock to be made, or has
a gun to be re-stocked, the gunsmith will observe the length of his
customer’s arms, length of neck, his height and general carriage. From
these he can gather some data as to the length and form of stock to be
made. Give him a gun, and observe his mode of raising it and taking aim,
and the manner of his holding his head while aiming, and deductions may
be drawn as to what the customer requires.
A tall, long-limbed and long-armed man requires a longer stock than
a shorter person, and a straight stock will better answer for a
short-necked, high-shouldered man than for a long-necked, low-shouldered
person. A straight stock is much more suitable for a short-necked,
high-shouldered person than a bent one, and for this reason, that, in
fast shooting the point of sight at the end of the gun would come up to
the range of the eye before the butt could be placed full against the
shoulder, and one consequence would be, when fired, a severe recoil of
the gun at every discharge. A stock rather long is much better than one
too short, and one rather crooked to one that is too straight. If a gun
be not held on a perfect level, but the muzzle higher than the breech,
the load will be carried over the object aimed at, supposing that object
to be on a level with the eye. Let a customer take a gun, such as would
be thought to be best suited to his “build,” and request him to close
both eyes and raise the gun to a level, as if to shoot thus. Have him
hold the gun immovable thus, and then request him to open his eyes, and
it is evident if he requires a stock to be made different from the one
he has in hand. If the face comes naturally to the breech and the eye
has a “fine sight” along the barrel, it is just the pattern of gun stock
for him to have. If it be too straight he will shoot over, if too much
crooked he will shoot under. In the first instance the muzzle is brought
too high by an effort of the face to find a position at the breech, and
in the other case it so readily finds a place that no further effort is
made, except by practice, to raise the muzzle to the proper level.
A tall, slim person requires a gun with a long, crooked stock, and rather
heavier and made fuller behind the small, as this will fill up his want
of a full face, and will better permit his eye a command of sight along
the middle of the barrels, supposing the gun to be a double one. For a
short individual a short, straight stock is required, and it should be
made thinner behind the small, so as to easily permit access to the line
of sight. If a person be in the habit of firing too low and behind a
bird, if the stock be made a little straighter it will prove a remedy for
the fault.
That part of the stock where the cheek comes to rest should be full, as
it gives more support to the line of fire. The heel of the stock should
be in a straight line with the upper rib between the barrels. If a single
gun, on a line with the barrel. The length of stock from the centre of
front trigger to centre of butt-plate, from thirteen to fifteen and a
half inches; a short person requiring the less measurement, while a very
tall one might require the longest one.
[Illustration: FIGURE 23.]
The cut, Fig. 23, gives a better idea of what the stock should be. Place
a rule or straight-edge upon the rib of the gun, and long enough to reach
from the sight of the gun over and beyond the butt. Be particular that
the straight-edge lies along the rib and touches it at both muzzle and
breech. The measurement from _a_ to _b_ on the butt is what is termed the
“drop,” and this may be from two and a half to four inches, according to
the requirements of the shooter. The cheek of the sportsman comes between
_c_ and _d_, and almost always touches the stock at this place when
bending his head forward over the stock of his gun to take the line of
sight. This part of the gun should command particular attention.
Another point of considerable importance to observe is, that a due regard
be paid to the proper fall of equipoise or centre of gravity of the gun
when stocked and ready for use. This centre of gravity should fall at
a point about two feet two inches, or perhaps an inch more, from the
heel of the butt. In this case the arm is easier to handle and easier to
carry. If the breech be too light, lead may be inserted to advantage in
the butt, the butt-plate being removed for that purpose.
_Dimensions for Single Gun._—The following may be considered very good
dimensions for a single gun stock: Whole length of stock, from butt
to cap, two feet two inches; length or depth of butt, five and a half
inches, with a trifling concave surface; width of stock at butt, two
inches; from point of centre of the lock-tumbler to cap, eleven inches;
width of stock before the guard, one inch and three-eighths, and made
nearly square.
_Dimensions for Double Gun._—For a double gun: Length of stock, from
butt to cap, two feet one inch; length or depth of butt, five and a half
inches, with a slightly concave surface two inches in width; from centre
of lock-tumbler to cap, ten and one-quarter inches; width of stock before
guard, one inch and three-quarters, and made nearly square.
_Laying out Gun Stocks._—Several patterns each, of double and single,
and rifle stocks are necessary. These patterns may be made of thin wood
or thick straw-board. These patterns ought to be a little larger than
the finished stock, and are intended only for a proximate measurement of
the stock when to be sawed from the rough wood. Select the wood, lay the
pattern upon it, mark around with a pencil or crayon, and then saw out by
the lines made.
With a plane, smooth one side of the wood so as to show the grain and
the direction in which it runs. This must govern the position of laying
the pattern. The weakest portion of the stock is the small, and there it
is almost a necessity that the grain should not run across the line of
the stock, but with it. If a very little divergence be made, it may not
matter, provided the wood be of a hard and close grain. If the grain run
across, or at an angle at this weakest spot, a slight blow or accidental
fall is liable to cause a breakage which can best be repaired with a new
stock. If the wood be in some places mottled, with curled or twisted
grain, or has a knot that is hard and sound, let this spot come in the
center of the butt, for by its width and thickness no accident is liable
to break it, and the rounded form gives opportunity to show off the
irregular grain to good advantage. Let the wood where the butt plate is
attached be of straight and regular grain if possible. The grain where
the locks are let in, and also where the barrel is let in, should be
straight and run in the same line as the barrel.
The planks or rough pieces for double gun stocks should be about two and
a quarter inches thick before they are reduced. Two inches for a single
gun, and about one and three-quarter inches, or a little thicker, for
rifles, depending on their weight and the taste of the customer.
It is best to have a number of stocks roughed out. Maple for rifles and
black-walnut for single and double guns. Let them lay in a dry place to
thoroughly season, and if they remain in this manner for several years,
they are all the better for it. It is claimed that it takes seven years
for a plank to season, and even then when sawed into stocks, they will be
observed to shrink and change form, and often small cracks will appear.
Unhesitatingly reject all pieces that are unsound, or have any appearance
of being brash, or with any signs of decay. Often in laying the patterns
upon the wood these places can be readily avoided, and thrown away as the
plank is cut up. Draw a straight line where the barrels will come, and
cut to this line, but be sure to leave plenty of wood where the breech
of the barrels rest, and where the break-off is set in. When the stock
is roughed out, this spot will have the appearance of a rise or swell
with a sharp curve in front, down on to the line which is just below the
centre of the line of the barrels for double guns, and on the centre for
single guns and rifles. Except in the case of some who may fancy the old
Kentucky rifle, all guns will probably be made with half-stock. It would
be hardly advisable to keep only a very limited stock of full length
stocks on hand. If such are to be roughed out, pay particular attention
to have the grain of the wood as straight as possible the full length
where the barrel is to be let in.
_How to Stock a Gun._—Stocking a gun is the most difficult portion of
the gunsmith’s trade. The change from iron work to the manipulation of
wood is so great that many workmen refuse to work at both branches of
the business. Then again, if the stock be not well done and the parts
well fitted, they show a greater per cent. worse than perhaps they really
are. The letting in of the barrel and locks should be done with care
and nicety, and no apparent openings between wood and metal should be
visible. The parts should be closely adherent to the wood, yet easy to
be removed and returned to place. Where straight lines of the wood work
are required, as along the line of the barrels and other places, let the
lines _be straight_. Where the convex lines of the breech and butt occur,
let the lines be graceful and of even proportions.
_The First Operation._—After receiving the rough formed stock, as roughed
out for seasoning, the first thing to do is to plane it to a thickness,
and there are two places to measure for this thickness. One is the
thickness of the butt, which in double guns may be two inches, and the
same width in heavy single guns, and a trifle lighter if it be a light
gun. The other place for measurement is across where the locks are to
be let in. Observe how the locks are to rest, against the break-off or
against the barrels. Note this measurement and add the thickness of the
locks. This may be an inch and three-eighths to an inch and a half for
single guns, and an inch and five-eighths to an inch and three-quarters
for double guns, yet as the formation of the breech and style of locks
differ so will these measurements vary from the measurements given. When
these measurements are made, and the stock reduced to the proper width,
draw a line both on the upper side of the stock as well as the under
side, exactly between the breech and lock measurements, and continue this
line from the end of the butt to the end of the fore-stock. Cut down to
a straight line the stock where the barrels are to be let in, and fit in
the break-off. Take pains to fit it well, for on the fitting of this in
a great measure depends the life of the stock. If the barrels be loose
fitted, each recoil of the gun on firing tends to loosen the break-off
from the barrels, and the joint soon becomes open and shackling.
When this part is snugly fitted and the strap let in, put in temporary
screws to hold it for a season. Cut out the groove for the barrels,
keeping in mind all the time that the central line between the barrels
must be on the line as drawn on the centre of the stock. If a single gun,
this line must pass directly through the axial line of the bore.
_Letting in Barrels._—When it is thought that wood enough has been
removed to admit the barrels, rub oil on them on the under side where
they come in contact with the stock, put the hooks in the break-off, and
with the hand press the barrels to place—the oil will show on the wood,
on removing them, and then, with gouge or float, remove this portion and
again put the barrels in place, observing the oil marks, and reduce the
wood again until the barrels lie in their beds evenly and solidly, and
the joining at the break-off is in place, square and true. The heel of
the stock should come in a straight line with the middle of the rib, and
will come so, if observance of the lines first drawn has been made.
_Measure for the Stock._—Now measure for the drop of the stock, which is
illustrated in Fig. 23. From the line _a_ to _b_, which is a continuation
of a line along the top of the barrels, may be, for instance about three
inches. Cut the stock away on top to this measurement, and fit on the
butt plate. To get the length of the breech, measure from the spot where
the end of the front trigger will come, and this measurement extended,
straight back to the centre of the butt, gives the length. For a person
with long arms about fifteen and a half inches is enough; about fourteen
and a half for a person with ordinary length of arm, and thirteen and a
half or thirteen and three-quarters for a person with short arms.
_The Butt._—The depth of the butt for a double or single may be about
five and a half inches, but for a light single gun a little less but not
very much.
_Letting in the Locks._—The locks should now be let in their proper
places, and, while so doing, have great care that no more wood be
removed than is necessary. See that the lock-plates have all the
support possible where they fit into the wood. Cut out enough for full
play of the mainspring and sear-berg spring carefully, do not remove
wood where the edges of the lock-plate come, so as to leave open spaces
for admission of water, dust or moisture. In letting in the locks the
portions of wood to be removed can be ascertained by touching the
prominent parts of the lock with oil, or holding the lock over a smoky
lamp, so as to have soot adhere, then observe where it touches, on
pressing the locks into place. Observe if the cup of the hammer comes
squarely on the nipple, and put in the side bolts as they are to remain.
_Letting in the Trigger-Plate._—Let the trigger-plate into the stock so
that the arm of the sear bears wholly on the thick of the trigger, and
not on the outer end. For this reason, if it engages the outer end, on
being pulled to disengage the nose of the sear from the tumbler notch,
it produces a sort of “twisted leverage” which does not work quick and
strong enough to properly disengage the sear without some effort on
account of this. If the arm of the sear bears only in part on the thick
of the trigger, it works hard and stiff, and the parts soon wear each
other. Observe if the arm of the sear be not too short, for it might
happen that the trigger will slip off at the end upon a quick pressure
being applied, leaving the parts disengaged and the hammer standing at
full-cock.
_Letting in the Trigger._—The trigger should be so disposed in the
plate that a distance of an inch and about three-eighths exist between
the right trigger and the front of the trigger guard, and an inch and
three-sixteenths or more between the two triggers, and a sufficient space
between the rear of the left trigger and the guard behind it to admit of
free movement of the trigger. Observe if the triggers do not come too
close to each other; if they do they may so rub upon each other that the
action of one will compel the other to follow its motion, and the result
will be a descent of both hammers at the same time.
Observe if the curves of the two triggers are at sufficient distance from
each other so that the left barrel can be fired without the projecting
and inner edge of the right or first trigger hurting the finger that
pulls the trigger.
_Secure Fastenings._—For a secure fastening of the break-off, and, at
the same time, to bind the stock together and prevent splitting through
where the locks are let in, insert a screw through the tang of the
strap and have it received in the front end of the trigger-plate. Have
a good thread where the screw goes into the trigger-plate, and have the
plate firmly drawn to its bed in the wood. Fit the guard, observing the
measurements for space in front and rear of the triggers.
_Fitting Bolt-Loops._—To ascertain the position of the loop where the
bolt or wire goes through to hold the barrel in place, insert a fine
steel needle through the wood until it strikes the hole, and then enlarge
around it to accommodate the hole and the loop. If for a bolt, a slender
tool made like a saw will enlarge the hole in the wood, letting the tool
follow in the loop and act as a guide to shape the hole. The finishing of
the hole in the wood may be done with a bolt float, shown in Fig. 24.
[Illustration: FIGURE 24.]
_Hints for Finishing._—In finishing up the stock have the part where the
cheek rests in firing made pretty full. Make it rather long than short,
and have it more straight than curved. The length of a stock, be it
double or single gun, from butt to front end of stock, may be from about
two feet to two feet two inches; from the centre of the hammer-screw to
front end of the stock, from ten to eleven inches.
_Fitting the Break-off._—On good fitting of the break-off depends, in a
great measure, the lasting quality of the gun. If this be not properly
fitted to the hooks of the breech, to the breech itself, and into
the stock, the gun is soon “kicked” to pieces by its own recoil. The
extension of the break-off that is let into the stock toward the breech
is called tang, strap or tail, and these are of two lengths, called the
long and the short. These lengths usually correspond with the lengths
of breech pins. The smallest diameter of break-off is one inch, and
increases by eighths of an inch up to two inches.
_To let in Escutcheons, etc._—Do not fit in an escutcheon until that
part of the stock is finished or made to form. Then, after the bolt is
fitted to its place through the loop, remove the bolt, make the hole
in the escutcheon so that the bolt slides easily through it. Hold the
escutcheons on the stock in the place they are to occupy and put the bolt
through them. Mark around them with the sharp point of a knife and remove
them. Cut out the wood of a depth to correspond with the thickness of the
escutcheon with a bottoming tool. Put them in place and fasten them. They
can now be finished down with a file even with the stock.
It is well to have escutcheons with the ends long enough to admit of
small screws being inserted to hold them. They are more permanent than
those that are held by a wire-like extension that goes through the wood
and is clinched a little. By using the screws the workman can make his
own escutcheons. Sheet iron, brass or German silver may be used. The slot
can be cut with a punch or drift, and finished with a thin, flat file.
The handles of old German silver spoons make very good escutcheons. If
too thick, hammer out thinner. Heat them to soften so that they will not
crack in hammering.
In putting escutcheons to place where they are to remain, heat them quite
warm, smear with gum shellac and, while soft and melted, press into
place. If done expertly, a neat job will be the result.
_How to Cast Tips on Fore-end of Stock._—Tips are cast on the fore-end
of half-stocked single guns and rifles for the purpose of preventing
the stock from splitting, and, at the same time, give it a finished
appearance. After the stock is finished to shape and the rod fitted, put
the barrel in place, and put a short piece of wood in the rod groove,
the same as the rod would be if put there. Let the piece project from
the wood four or five inches. It serves a double purpose, preventing the
metal from flowing into the hole and making a hole to receive the rod.
Now, wind thick, smooth paper—manilla paper is best—around the stock and
barrel where the tip is to be cast, confining it with a cord, taking care
to have all tight so that no portion of the metal will escape. See that
the space between the paper and wood is left large enough, so that the
metal can be dressed down a little; little notches may be cut in the wood
to have it hold the better.
Fix the gun so as to stand upright, so that the metal will pour evenly.
Heat the metal pretty hot and pour carefully into the paper, and pour in
more than is wanted for the length of the tip, as the dross will float to
the top and can be removed when cold by sawing off a little of the tip.
File up and finish to suit the taste.
The best metal for tips is pure block tin, as it remains white. If it be
wished to make it a little harder, add a very little antimony, but this
is hardly necessary. Old type, when melted, make a very good material for
tips when pure tin cannot be obtained. Tin has the advantage of always
retaining a clear white color, which when alloyed with lead, it will not
do.
_Chequering._—To lay out the work preparatory for chequering, take a
piece of card—a firm pasteboard, cut it to the shape of the spot to be
chequered; mark around it with a lead pencil. If it be the small of a gun
stock, place it at the other side from that first marked and mark that
place. See that both places are marked alike. Then place the paper on, so
that when it is used as a guide the tool will cut a groove where the line
was drawn. Cut outlines in the same manner, the paper serving as a guide
for the tool. After one groove is cut, this is a guide for grooving the
space inclosed by the outlines.
To finish the cuts or grooves, fold a short piece of fine sand-paper
and run the folded edge along the cuts. Be careful not to cut down too
much with the sand-paper. A fine-cut, three-square file can be used to
finish up the grooves made by the chequering-tool. Be careful to select
a file that has very sharp corners. If one of the flat surfaces of the
file be ground smooth, the teeth on the corners will be found to be very
sharp, and will answer first-rate for finishing. The same may be used for
finishing the shading or outside lines around the chequered surface.
_Coloring Gun Stocks._—Gun stocks are colored with linseed oil in which
alkanet root has been placed. The oil will then be of a bright red
color. The oil may be applied cold or warm, as most convenient. After
the application let the stock stand for a day or two until the wood has
absorbed all the oil possible. Four ounces of the alkanet root to half a
pint of the oil are sufficient. Unboiled or raw linseed oil is generally
used. It may take five or six days to color, after the root is put in. It
may be put on the work four or five times, with a bit of sponge or a rag.
_To Stain a Maple Stock._—Mix an ounce and a half of nitric acid with
about equal quantity of iron turnings or filings. Wait until all the gas
evolved has evaporated, and then dip a rag in the liquid and wash the
portions of the stock to be colored. When this is dry, wet with the oil
and alkanet root.
_Another Method._—A stock may be oiled and then passed over a brisk
flame, as that made from dry shavings, until the oil is scorched off, and
then lightly rubbed down with fine sand-paper and then finished in the
usual way.
_To Color a Maple Stock Brown._—Dissolve a few grains of sulphate of
manganese in water; wet the stock and hold over the flame of an alcohol
lamp so as to scorch it. By heating some parts more than others the color
can be variegated. Oil with raw linseed oil, and polish with a piece of
hard wood. The oil and polishing will develop the color, which may be
dull at first.
_To Color a Reddish Brown._—Brush the wood with dilute nitric acid, and
when dry apply the following with a brush: Dragon’s-blood, four ounces;
common soda, one ounce; alcohol, three pints. Repeat if not dark enough.
_To Color a Black._—Boil half a pound of logwood chips in two quarts of
water; add one ounce of pearlash, and wash the work with it while hot.
Then, when dry, go over the work with the following: Boil half a pound
of logwood in two quarts of water; add half an ounce of verdigris and
green copperas, in which has been put half a pound of rusty steel or iron
filings.
_Rosewood Stain._—Boil half a pint of logwood in three pints of water
till the mixture is very dark red; add salts of tartar, one-half ounce,
while boiling hot; and while still in this condition apply to the wood,
repeating the application two or three times, as the previous application
becomes dry. Rub over with a soft cloth when the last application has
dried, and set away for a day or so. In the meantime boil one pound of
logwood in four quarts of water until of a deep color, then add one
pint of vinegar, heat hot and apply to the wood already stained, with a
suitable brush, streaking on in imitation of rosewood. When thoroughly
dry rub off all loose matter with a soft cloth, and varnish.
_Black-Walnut Stain._—Put together gum asphaltum, one pound, and
turpentine, half a gallon. Dissolve by gentle heating, taking care not to
heat so as to ignite the turpentine. Rub over the wood, and when dry, if
not sufficiently dark, repeat the operation. Having the shade to suit,
polish down by rubbing hard with a woollen cloth, followed with a bit of
soft wood, then varnish. A stain, not quite so good, but cheaper and more
simple, is burnt umber, such as can be bought at any paint shop, ground
in oil, thinned with a little turpentine. It should be put on very thick,
and then rubbed off to the proper shade with a woollen cloth. Dry and
varnish.
_Mahogany Stain._—It is not often that guns are stocked in mahogany, but
the gunsmith ought to know how to stain in imitation of that wood, should
occasion happen to call for it. Put together, water, one half gallon;
madder, four ounces; and fustic, two ounces. Boil. Lay on the wood with a
brush while hot; and while yet damp, but not wet, rub off with a woollen
cloth; then, when dry, go over with a second coat in streaks to imitate
the grain of mahogany. Rub off all loose matter when dry, and varnish.
_Cherry Stain._—Put two ounces of annatto in half a gallon of rain water.
Boil until the annatto is dissolved, then add half an ounce of potash.
This preparation is intended for wood of a light color. It may be bottled
and kept for use when wanted. Nothing to do in the application but rub
over the wood, let dry, and then varnish.
_Oil Finish for Gun Stocks._—Mix common Spanish whiting with some kind of
coloring material until it is exactly the shade of the wood you desire to
finish. For instance, if it is walnut to be finished, the coloring agent
will be dry burnt umber. Having the whiting ready, give the wood, which
has been well finished up with fine sand paper, a coat of raw linseed
oil, then sprinkle the whiting mixture over it, and with a woollen cloth
rub thoroughly and hard. This forces the colored whiting into all the
pores of the wood. Lastly, rub down heavily with a piece of soft white
pine, and then set away to dry. It may be left in this condition, or it
may be varnished, when dry, if thought desirable.
_Varnishing and Finishing._—After the stock is shaped and sand-papered
so that the surface is smooth and free from any marks of the rasp
and scratches of sand-paper wipe it over with a cloth a little moist
with water, this will raise the grain of the wood a little, when dry,
sand-paper it off smooth. With a small brush, such as is used by painters
and called a sash brush, apply the varnish. Shellac varnish is the kind
generally used by gunsmiths. It will dry in a little time, but ought to
stand about twenty-four hours before being rubbed down. This is done
with fine sand-paper the same as finishing the stock, the object being
to fill the pores of the wood as much as possible. It may require two,
three or even four coats of the varnish to do this, each one after it is
thoroughly dried, being sand-papered down to the wood.
The last coat of varnish is laid on with a flat varnish brush made of
soft fine hair; see that the varnish be free from dirt or specks and not
too thick; put it on evenly and quickly. See that it does not run down
so as to show in streaks. When this coat is thoroughly dry, rub it down
smooth with powdered pumice stone applied with a rag wet with water. Take
care not to cut through the varnish so as to show the wood underneath,
as the pumice powder cuts very fast. When the surface is made smooth and
even, wash off all traces of the pumice powder with a wet cloth, and wipe
it dry. Now go over it with powdered rotten-stone applied with a rag
moistened with oil. Rub until the varnished surface shows a finish or a
glassy appearance, then wipe off all trace of rotten stone and oil. If a
little flour be dusted over, it will better remove the oil traces that
may remain; with the hand rub the surface until it presents a gloss. The
hand must be soft to do this and must be free from dirt.
[Illustration: FIGURE 25.]
_The Varnish for Gun Stocks._—Some workmen use copal varnish because
it is cheap and convenient, but it is objectionable on account of its
softness and its disposition to crack when exposed to the sun. There
are a number of special varnishes recommended to the gunsmith, but for
general use perhaps good coach varnish, will answer in many cases. It
should be made quite thin with turpentine, and be put on lightly.
_Varnish Can._—A very good form of varnish can is shown in Fig. 25. The
essentials are to have a cover with a stem to receive the handles of the
brushes, and a bridge crossing the can a little distance down from the
top. The cover never sticks, no varnish collects around the sides, and
it is always clean and tidy. The can is round and made of tin. The cover
shuts over the outside at the top. In wiping the brush across the bridge,
be careful not to get any upon the outside of the can where the cover
comes in contact. The size of can maybe made according to the needs of
the mechanic, but the stem of the cover must be wide enough as well as
long enough to receive the brush handles.
CHAPTER XV.
ON GUN BARRELS.
_Long and Short Barrels._—A long barrel may be preferable for several
reasons: 1st. A longer distance between the sights is given and the
back sight can be put farther from the eye, so that finer sighting is
possible; 2d. A long barrel is steadier in off-hand shooting; 3d. It
permits a slower burning powder to be used, so that the charge starts
more slowly and yet allows the full strength of the powder to be used
before it leaves the barrel, getting a high initial velocity with but
little recoil.
The short barrel has an advantage over the long one inasmuch as it can be
handled with greater quickness and the sight can be brought to bear more
readily, especially if the game be moving. If the barrel be long enough
to give the charge the full benefit of the propelling power of the powder
it may be deemed all sufficient. Yet, as to this, tastes and experience
may so differ as to raise many conflicting opinions.
Except in some localities, as in case of districts where the
old-fashioned Kentucky rifle is used, long barrels have been pretty much
abandoned. A few years ago it was not uncommon to find barrels three
and even four feet long, now the lengths will range from twenty-six to
thirty-two inches. The length of the old Government musket barrel was
originally forty inches, but has been lessened about seven inches. With
the long barrels, a coarse, slower burning powder may be used and get a
good result, but as a general thing cut off the barrel to a convenient
length for off-hand shooting and moving game, use a finer-grained powder,
which will be quicker burning and just as good results are obtained.
A gun having barrels over thirty inches in length, must needs be made
with heavy barrels, and is very fatiguing to carry in an all day hunt. A
gun of this kind, to be safe and well-proportioned, ought to weigh nine
or ten pounds.
If fine and quick-burning powder be used in a long barrel, the powder is
flashed into propelling gas, instantaneously, and beyond a certain length
of barrel has no further expansive power, and the result is a friction
of the charge in escaping, that affects the shot and consequently the
pattern on the target. If slow burning powder be employed in a short
barrel, the whole of the powder cannot be so instantly flashed into the
propelling gas and some portion of it is, as a result, driven unconsumed
from the muzzle of the gun.
This fact can be very readily ascertained by firing a gun over a bed of
clean snow or over a spread of white cloth. The unconsumed grains can
be readily seen on the white ground. If a less charge be used in order
to consume all the powder, less velocity will be given to the projected
charge, and weak shooting and a poor, scattering effect on the target is
the consequence.
_Proof of Barrels._—In consequence of the bursting of guns of an inferior
quality, all barrels of English manufacture that are intended for home
use, and also those designed for exportation, except a certain class of
arms, are required by law to be proved and stamped with the proof-mark
and also what is termed a view mark, which is a stamp or impress of the
inspection after the barrels were grooved. There are two of these proofs
called, respectively, the London and the Birmingham proof. In 1855, an
Act was passed by the English Parliament, called, “The Gun Barrel Proof
Act,” which enacted that all barrels should be proved, first, in the
rough, and was called the provisional proof, and afterward when the
barrels were put together, breeched and percussioned they were proved
again, and this was called the definitive proof.
The arms to be proved are to be divided into classes, and the first class
comprises single-barrelled military arms of smooth bore, and they are
not qualified for proof until they are fitted and complete to be set up
or assembled. The second class comprises double-barrelled military arms
of smooth bore and rifled arms of every description, whether of one or
more barrels, and constructed of plain or twisted iron. The fourth class
comprises double-barrelled guns for firing small shot, and these are
subject to the two proofs, provisional and definitive. For provisional
proof, if of plain metal, the barrels are to be bored and ground to
size, the vent hole drilled of a size not exceeding one-sixteenth of
an inch diameter, and a vent enlarged to one-tenth disqualified it for
proof. Notches in the plugs, instead of drilled vents, also disqualified
them. If the arms are of twisted metal, they are to be fine bored and
struck up, with proving plugs attached, and vents drilled the same as in
plain barrels.
For definitive proof the barrels, either plain or twisted, must be
finished ready for assembling, with break-offs and locks fitted. The top
and bottom ribs have to be rough struck up, pipes, loops and stoppers
on, and the proper breeches in. The same finished condition is required
for rifles, but, in addition, the barrels must be rifled. The third
class comprises single-barrelled shot guns, and for proving they are to
be finished ready for assembling, with breeches in; and all barrels,
with lumps for percussioning, are to be proved through the nipple hole.
The fifth class comprises revolving and breech-loading arms of every
description and system, and for revolving arms are to have the cylinders
with the revolving action attached and complete. The barrels for
breech-loaders are subject to provisional proof, according to the class
to which they belong, and to definitive proof, when the breech-loading
action is attached and complete.
Barrels made by the United States Government, or barrels made for the
Government, are subject to severe proofs. At the armory at Springfield,
the barrels submitted for proof are loaded, first, with a 500-grain slug
and 280 grains of powder, and afterward with a slug of the same weight
and 250 grains of powder. An inspection of the barrel is made after each
firing, and other inspections after rifling, browning, etc.
Probably the most severe proof of barrels was made with the Turkish
Peabody-Martini rifles as made for the Turkish Government by the
Providence Tool Co. The barrels were first proved for strength, and were
loaded with 205 grains of powder and 715 grains of lead. The regular
cartridge for service contains only 85 grains of powder and 480 grains of
lead.
[Illustration: FIGURE 26.]
_Proof Marks on Gun Barrels._—The marks applicable to the definitive
proof are the proof and view marks of the two English companies, viz.:
the London and the Birmingham. The provisional proof marks consist
of, for the London company, the letters G. P., interlaced in a cypher
surmounted by a lion rampant, and for the Birmingham company the letters
B. P., interlaced in a cypher surmounted by a crown. The London marks are
shown in Fig. 26, and the Birmingham in Fig. 27.
The method of affixing the proof marks in arms of the first and third
classes, the definitive proof mark and view mark is impressed at the
breech end of the barrel, and, if the barrel be designed for a patent
breech, the view mark is also impressed upon the breech. In arms of
the second, fourth and fifth classes, the proof mark is impressed at
the breech end of the barrel; the definitive proof and view marks
are impressed upon the barrel above the provisional proof marks. If
the barrel be made with patent breech or with revolving cylinders
or chambers, the view mark is impressed upon the breech or upon the
cylinders or chambers, as the case may be.
[Illustration: FIGURE 27.]
On all barrels the gauge size of the barrel is struck both at the
provisional and at the definitive proof. These gauge marks are readily
recognized, as shown in the cuts of the proof marks.
Barrels stamped with London marks are not always made in London, for
some gunmakers send their barrels to London to be proved, because guns
so marked find a readier sale. Barrels with foreign proof marks are
exempted, except in case of being marked as of English manufacture.
Old muzzle-loaders, if of English manufacture, intended for conversion
into other styles of guns, must be subjected to both provisional and
definitive proof.
It is said to be a fact that the proof marks of both companies are forged
and imitated, both in England and in Germany, and many cheap guns so
stamped are exported to this country. A cheap gun, with the stamps
mentioned, may be looked upon with suspicion as to its really having been
in the official proof-houses.
The proof marks employed by the inspectors in the U. S. Government
armories, and placed on all arms inspected by them, even if made in
private armories, are V for viewed, and P for proved, together with the
initial letters of the inspector’s name, and are found stamped on each
barrel. On many guns of the old model arms will be found, in addition to
these marks, the head of an eagle. This is the mark that indicated that
the barrels were made at the armory at Harper’s Ferry, when those works
were in operation.
_Gauge of Gun Barrels._—Guns are gauged by numbers, and these numbers
were originally designed to express the number of round balls to the
pound that would fit the bore of the barrel. Thus a ten gauge, a ball of
which ten made a pound, would fit the bore, etc. Ten and twelve bores are
generally used by sportsmen, especially those who use breech-loaders. The
twelve, perhaps, is the one most employed.
The following list shows the sizes of various gauges, the values of the
numbers being those adopted by the English proof companies. The diameters
of bores being expressed in decimal thousands of an inch:
Number Diameter
of of bore
Gauge. in inches.
1 1.669
2 1.325
3 1.157
4 1.052
5 .976
6 .919
7 .873
8 .835
9 .803
10 .775
11 .751
12 .729
13 .710
14 .693
15 .677
16 .662
17 .650
18 .637
19 .626
20 .615
21 .605
22 .596
23 .587
24 .579
25 .571
26 .563
27 .556
28 .550
29 .543
30 .537
31 .531
32 .526
33 .520
34 .515
35 .510
36 .506
Muzzle-loaders are of almost every variety of gauge, while breech-loaders
are made of a limited number of sizes. The sizes of this class of guns
are 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 and 20, and are limited to these sizes, there
being no intermediate sizes. The 10 and 12 bore are mostly in use, the
12 being in especial demand. The calibre or bore of military guns during
the Revolution was 75 hundredths of an inch, and has been reduced by
successive stages until now it is but 45 hundredths. Down to 1856 the
calibre of the Springfield musket was 58 hundredths. In 1856 it was
changed to 50 hundredths or one-half inch; and again, in 1873, it was
changed to the present calibre of 45 hundredths.
_Bursting of Barrels._—Bursting of barrels may result from three causes:
Poor quality of iron of which the gun is made; an excess of charge;
or some obstruction in the barrel so as to form an air space between
the charge and the obstruction. Of poor quality barrels, and excess
of charge it is needless to make mention. The instances of bursting
from obstructions forming the air space or chamber may be mentioned
in military guns, firing the charge but neglecting to remove the
wooden tompion from the muzzle of the gun. In sporting guns snow may
accidentally get into the muzzle or a lump of dirt may “somehow” get in
so as to fill the bore, and when the gun is fired, it will probably, yes,
most certainly be blown off or blown open where the obstruction exists;
the muzzle of a gun being thrust into water for a couple of inches or
more will have like effect. The gas formed by burning the powder finds no
outlet of escape, and the whole expansive force concentrates itself on
the weakest portion of the barrel, and as a result it is forced apart. In
good guns the portion toward the muzzle is the thinnest, and obstructions
are generally at or above this place, and it is in this proximity where
most guns are burst. If within three, four or five inches from the
muzzle, the portion so destroyed can be sawed off, the barrels squared up
and it will not always seriously affect the shooting of the gun.
In loading a gun be careful that there be no air space left between the
charge and the ball or shot cartridge. In double guns, frequent firing
the right barrel, which is the one fired the most, the recoil will often
cause the ball or shot charge in the left barrel to be thrown forward
from the powder, and when it is fired may either strain or burst the
barrel. Even if there be a small air space between the powder and the
ball or shot cartridge it will affect the shooting. Every one using
double guns should accustom himself to the use alternately of both
barrels, not only for safety but for good shooting. A barrel is often
said to be a poor shooter, when its bad qualities may be wholly ascribed
to the air space produced above the powder by the recoil occasioned by
firing the other barrel.
_To Prevent Gun Barrels from Rusting._—Heat the barrel to about the
temperature of boiling water, no higher, and then cover it with a
good coating of copal varnish. Let it stand at same temperature about
half an hour, then rub off the varnish while still hot with a soft
cloth. In this process the varnish will enter the pores of the metal
sufficiently to prevent rusting, but will not show on the surface after
having been carefully rubbed off as directed. A polished surface like
that of a finished gun barrel, is not much liable to rust, and, indeed,
seldom begins to rust, the rust starting in the pores of the metal and
finally working outward. This being the case it will readily be seen
that sheltering the pores by filling them with some kind of substance
impervious to moisture cannot do otherwise than act as a splendid
preventive.
_Protection from Rust._—It sometimes happens that finished up articles
in steel or iron must be laid away for a considerable length of time, in
which case it is desirable to employ some means for protecting them from
the effects of rust. One of the most common things is to either grease
them or wrap them in a greasy rag. This may answer in many cases, but
it is not nearly so good as to paint them over with a mixture of white
lead and tallow in equal parts, the white lead to be such as has been
ground in oil for the painter’s use. In this simple mixture will be found
an effectual protection; and as the tallow will prevent drying, it may
be entirely removed at pleasure by rubbing with a little kerosene or
turpentine.
Where it is desirable to protect an article that must be handled a great
deal, as gun-barrels on sale in a store, for instance, a very good plan
is to heat the article sufficiently hot to readily melt beeswax brought
in contact with it, then rub it thoroughly with the wax. Let it stand
until the wax is about ready to harden, then rub off with a coarse woolen
cloth. The wax remaining on the metal will not show, but there will be
enough left to protect it from rust.
CHAPTER XVI.
ON WORK ON GUN BARRELS.
_Boring Gun Barrels._—The tool used for this purpose consists of a rod
a little longer than the barrel to be bored, with a cutter head at one
end. This cutter is about one-half or three-quarters of an inch long,
and of a diameter a little larger than the bore that is to be enlarged.
It can be made to be pulled through the barrel or to be pushed through
when cutting. In the armories where many guns of the same calibre are
made, a portion of the shank, next to the cutter, is made of the bore of
the barrel, and the cutter made of the size the bore is to be enlarged.
The portion that fills the bore acts as a guide, so that the cutter is
forced to follow after it, and the enlarged bore is in the same line as
the boring previously made. The cutting edges of the tool are, of course,
next to the enlarged portion. As the tool is pulled through the barrel,
the cuttings are left behind it as it advances; oil is to be supplied
while cutting, and care must be exercised not to let it get clogged with
cuttings, as a tearing of the surface of the barrel would be the result.
When the tool is made to be pushed through while cutting, the cutting
edges of the tool is on the end, and it operates like a reamer. This
cutting end should be bevelled off so as to follow the bore to be
enlarged.
_How to make Cutters for Boring._—One way to make these cutters is like
a many-fluted reamer, with five, seven, or more cutters. The odd numbers
will operate better than even ones. If made with too many cutting edges,
there will not be clearance enough for the chips, and clogging will be
the result. Then again, the cutters must not be too long, or there will
be too much friction, and the barrel will become very hot in working.
Also, if the friction is too great, the barrel may be bent and sprung in
consequence.
One form of cutter is made like the cherry to make an elongated bullet,
or like the cherry of a Minie bullet. They may also be made in form of an
egg. A common twist drill welded to a steel rod has been used for small
bores. A small fluted reamer welded to a rod will do where the enlarging
is quite small. When the tool is to be pulled through the cutter may be
made like a short twist drill not over an inch long, with the cutting
edges next the rod, and not on the end, as these drills are generally
made.
_Quick-Boring Gun Barrels._—The way to bore gun barrels by hand is this:
Make a steel rod with a square bit about six or eight inches long on
one end, and a little less in diagonal diameter than the bore of the
barrel. The whole rod should be a little longer, say a foot or so, than
the barrel to be bored. Harden and temper the bit end. See that it is
true and perfectly straight when ground. The grinding should be done by
drawing the bit across the face of the grindstone, and this will leave
the sides of the bit a little hollowing, and the edges quite sharp. Pack
up one side with a thin strip of soft pine until it will just enter the
breech end of the barrel. By means of a strong bit stock, or a handle
affixed like an auger, turn it around, at the same time forcing it toward
the muzzle, until it has cut its way through the entire length of the
barrel. While the cutting is going on keep the interior of the barrel
plentifully supplied with good oil. Now, as the bit will be a very little
smaller than the bore of the barrel, remove it and take off the little
strip of wood and place between it and the bit a strip of writing paper
of the length and width of the side of the bit where the wood was placed;
then insert the bit again at the breech and bore through to the muzzle.
Repeat the operation again by inserting a second slip of paper, and so
proceed, using plenty of oil, until the bore or calibre of the barrel is
sufficiently enlarged.
_Proving the Size during Boring._—A method of proving the size of the
interior of the barrel and at the same time test its being perfectly of
the same size throughout, is to cast an ingot of lead about an inch long
in the muzzle, and with a rod forcing it through.
If the work be well done the interior of the barrel will present a bright
mirror-like appearance, and will need no further finishing.
_Draw-Boring._—Draw-boring is done with a rod that nearly fills the
bore of the gun, and at one end of this rod is fitted a tool made like
a short piece of file, but with the teeth made a great deal coarser and
larger. This tool may be about an inch long, and of a round form on the
cutting side, to fit the curvature of the bore. This tool is put on the
end of the rod and worked back and forth, also turning it around, so as
to present the cutter to all sides of the bore in which it is to operate.
When it will cut no more the cutter is removed from its seat, a slip of
paper put under it, and it is put in place and the operation repeated,
and so continued until the bore of the gun is sufficiently enlarged.
Pieces of thin files, broken to length and with the ends ground to fit
the rod, have been used for draw-boring, but the best and most effective
tool is a bit of steel filed up to shape and properly fitted. One half
of the cutting teeth should point forward and the other half backward,
so that the cutter will remove some of the metal as it works in either
direction, forward or back. If the cutter be an inch long, about three or
four teeth may point one way, and as many the reverse direction.
In using these tools, keep them well oiled, to prevent tearing into the
metal.
_Choke-Boring._—The method of making a choke-bore is similar to
quick-boring, except the cutting end of the rod does not go quite through
the barrel, being withdrawn and again inserted with a slip of paper
placed between the slip of wood and the cutter. This is worked not quite
so far as the previous boring, being withdrawn and another slip of paper
placed between the wood and the cutter, and this is worked in as far as
desired. Care must be taken that the choke be gradual and even. A finish
can be given by folding a piece of fine emery cloth or emery paper around
a rod, and by turning this in the barrel, equalize any unevenness that
may occur.
To enlarge the interior of a barrel, boring it choked at both breech and
muzzle, push the rod to the distance from the breech the enlarging is to
commence, and then commence boring, leaving off where the muzzle choke is
to commence.
If the bore of a barrel is made to taper from muzzle to breech, it
will scatter. If made to taper too much from breech to muzzle, it will
compress the shot, and by so doing mangle or deface them so that they
will “shoot wild,” while at the same time the effect on the gun will be
to spring the barrel, and, if it be thin at the muzzle, as generally
made, there is danger of enlargement of the bore at this portion of it.
_Choke-Dressing a Gun Barrel._—A very slight variation in the size of
the bore of a gun-barrel at one of its ends often has a marked effect
on its shooting. In case where a shotgun is disposed to “scatter” too
much, the remedy lies in enlarging the bore at the breech. Choke-boring
would be the means resorted to where such an operation was convenient;
but where not, choke-dressing may be made to answer a very good purpose.
This consists in dressing out the breech with fine emery paper or cloth,
wrapped upon a round wooden rod. A little oil should be used in finishing
the dressing, which need not extend above half the length from the breech
to the muzzle. No particular attention need be given as to the slope, as
the size of the bore, under this operation, is sure to be left largest at
the breech.
_Barrels most Suitable for Choke-Boring._—Laminated steel barrels are the
most suitable for choke-bore guns, being harder and more tenacious than
Damascus, and, therefore, resist the repeated strain of heavy charges
better; they will be found to be more durable, and lead less than barrels
of softer material. Barrels of plain steel, or decarbonized steel, so
called, should never be used for choke-bore guns, as they are unsafe for
guns with light muzzles. Decarbonized steel is most suitable for rifles,
where great strength of metal is employed. The finest pattern in Damascus
is not always desirable, as the excessive twisting necessary to make the
fine pattern often weakens the fibre of the metal.
_Freeing Gun Barrels._—It is often desired to free a barrel at the
muzzle, or at both breech and muzzle; and the amount to be removed is so
very little that it is hazardous to insert the boring bit for fear of
removing too much. It is easily accomplished in this manner: Select a
straight wood rod that does not quite fill the bore of the gun and saw
a slit with a fine saw at one end, for about three or four inches, and
parallel with the length of the rod. Cut strips of fine emery paper, or
emery cloth, the width of which should be the same as the length of the
slot, insert one end in the slot and wrap the projecting part around the
rod, introduce this end into the barrel and work it up and down, if it be
desired to finish the barrel that way, or turn it around by means of a
bit stock or lathe if the finish is to be thus done.
Many gunsmiths cast soft lead at the end of a rod, using the muzzle of
the gun as a size mould, and after removing from the barrel, apply oil
and fine emery, and with this work the inside of the barrel.
[Illustration: FIGURE 28.]
_Another Method._—There is another plan. Make a rod of soft pine wood
that almost fills the bore and make a small hole, say about one-eighth
of an inch diameter at the point where the saw kerf is to terminate.
Cover this portion of the rod with good glue, made thin, and then roll
it in the emery, the same as making an emery wheel or a buff-stick. When
dry use it in the same way as the other forms of rod. When desired to
increase the size, which will be necessary, a thin wedge can be inserted
in the saw-kerf and pressed deeper in as the bore increases, or near as
the rod diminishes its size. By wrapping the rod with fine twine where
the hole is made there will be no danger of splitting the rod when the
wedge is pushed in. The same form of wedge can be used in the rod first
described, and at the same time the wedge will help keep the emery cloth
or paper in place. The cut, Fig. 28, shows the rod as ready to receive
the coating of emery.
_Finishing Muzzles of Gun-Barrels._—To shorten a barrel, the general
custom is to cut it off with a three-square file, by filing a groove
around it, or else saw it off with a hack-saw; the latter method being
preferable, as by sawing completely through the barrel the piece is
removed with no temptation to sever it by bending, as is often the case
when cutting off with a file.
[Illustration: FIGURE 29.]
After the piece is removed use a tool like the one shown in Fig. 29, to
square up the end. This tool has a cutting part an inch in diameter and
about an inch long. It is turned smaller back of the cutting portion, to
make it lighter or better to handle. A hole, three-eighths of an inch
diameter, is made centrally in the cutting end, and in this hole are
inserted iron or brass plugs made to fit, and the other end of a size to
fit the bore of different guns. After the barrel is squared up, bevel the
inner edge of the muzzle with the tool, Fig. 30, which is nothing more
than a common “rose-head,” and is made with similarly formed cutting
teeth. About sixteen teeth are sufficient for these tools. The rose head
tool has the cutting end about an inch diameter and nearly the same
length, one-half the length being taken up by the pointed cutting end.
[Illustration: FIGURE 30.]
_Old Method of Straightening Barrels._—The old-time method of
straightening a gun-barrel was by means of a fine thread of black silk
or a hair, which was passed through the bore of the barrel. This line
was drawn tight by being stretched from two ends of a rod of wood or
spring steel, the elasticity of which kept it taut, and the workman
looking through turned the barrel round so as to bring the thread of hair
into coincidence successively with every portion of the inner surface.
If there existed any concavity in any part of this surface, the thread
would show it by the distance which would there appear between the thread
itself and its reflection in the metal.
_The New Method._—There is another process of straightening barrels which
was explained by a writer in a scientific paper a few years ago, which is
termed “straightening by the shade,” and by this method barrels can be
straightened with a greater degree of precision than by any other known
process. The principle is something like this: If we examine a plane
mirror for the purpose of ascertaining whether its reflecting surface
is a true plane, we cause objects to be reflected from it to the eye at
small angles of incidence. If under these circumstances every part of the
mirror gives an image true to nature, he pronounces it perfect; for the
slightest deviation from a true plane would cause a manifest distortion
of the image. In the process of straightening barrels by the shade,
crooks in the bore are detected upon the same principle. The internal
surface of the barrel is a mirror, and whatever objects are reflected
to the eye from any portion of it that lies beyond a certain distance,
will be reflected under very small angles of incidence. As the interior
surface of the barrel is not a plane mirror, the reflected image will not
be true to nature. If the bore be straight, the image will have a normal
distortion, which is due to the transverse or cylindrical curvature of
the mirror; while if there be longitudinal flexures or crooks, there will
be an abnormal distortion of the image, which will reveal the defect.
[Illustration: FIGURE 31.]
When the eye looks into a gun barrel the interior surface appears to be
spread out into a plane circular disk, as far from the eye as the other
end of the barrel. Through the centre of this disk is a circular orifice,
and surrounding this at equal distances from it and from each other,
respectively, are several well-defined concentric circles, dividing the
disk into as many bright concentric rings, each of an apparent breadth,
precisely equal to the diameter of the central orifice which is the
other end of the bore as seen by direct vision. The several concentric
circles are so many images of the end of the bore reflected to the eye
from different points along its length. The first of these circles,
or that nearest the central orifice, is an image formed by light once
reflected. The second, third, fourth, etc., respectively, are images
formed by light reflected two, three, four, times, etc. In order to
see how these images are formed, and to find their respective points
of location in the bore, consider that a ray of light from each point
in the end of the calibre, as shown at _a_, Fig. 31, may pass to same
point _b_, on the other side of the bore, and be thence reflected to
the eye, thus forming at _b_, an image at the end of the bore, of one
reflection. Another ray from the same point may pursue the route _a_,
_c_, _d_, _e_, forming an image at _d_ of two reflections. Another ray
may take the route, _a_, _f_, _g_, _h_, _e_, forming an image at _h_ by
three reflections, and so on for the other images since in the formation
of each of these images, respectively, the angles of incidence and
reflection are equal, it follows that the focus, or point of place of
the image _b_, formed by one reflection of light, is at one-third of the
distance from the eye to the further end of the bore; that formed by two
reflections _d_, is one-fifth; that by three reflections is one-seventh,
and the succeeding ones, one-ninth, one-eleventh, etc., of the same
distance.
Therefore, it will be observed that all these images are located within
the third part of the length of the bore nearest to the eye. Consequently
there are two-thirds of the entire length of the bore in which none
of these images appear. It is to this part of the bore, only that the
workman directs his attention, for it is here only that he can cause the
“shade” to appear which discloses the crooks in the bore if any exist.
When this part is straightened, he inverts the barrel and works from the
other end.
[Illustration: FIGURE 32.]
The practical application of the process is made in this manner: the
workman has a rest, generally consisting of an upright strip of board
of convenient height with a V cut in its upper end for convenience in
resting the barrel in case of rotating it. Across a window opposite,
at almost any distance, say about ten or twelve feet, is nailed
horizontally, a strip of board like a common lath, as the horizontal
bar of the window sashes where they come together at the middle of the
window (provided there be upper and lower sashes) will answer nearly as
good a purpose. Now place one end of the barrel in the V of the rest,
look into the bore, directing the eye to the lower side of it and to the
point just beyond the image _b_; gradually depress the end held in the
hand, bringing the direction nearer and nearer to the horizontal strip,
or the sash bar as the case may be, and a dark shade is soon seen as
shown at _m_, Fig. 32. This is the reflected image of the horizontal
strip, or sash bar, the curved part of the outline being the image of
the straight-edge. Depress the end more and more and the shade lengthens
to _n_, _o_, _p_, etc. If the bore be perfectly straight, the shade will
always maintain a true and symmetrical parabolic form, growing more
and more pointed at its apex, until it reaches the further end of the
bore. But if there be even the slightest flexure or crook in the bore
the parabolic figure of the shade will be distorted. If a distortion
be discovered, the barrel is slowly revolved about its axis as it is
retained in the rest; at the same time slightly elevating and depressing
the end held in the hands, until the shade assumes a form in which the
two sides near the apex are equally drawn in toward each other as shown
at _q_. If the crook be considerable the two sides may be drawn quite
together, cutting off a portion of the shade of the apex as at _r_.
This tells that there is a crook at _q_, and also tells that the bore
is concave downward at that point. It will require some experience to
tell how far that point is from the eye, but when that is learned, the
fore-finger placed upon this point on the under side of the barrel tells
where the blow must be given to straighten it as it ought to be.
_Another Method._—Another method to ascertain if a barrel be straight, is
to insert a slip of card into the muzzle of the gun and then look through
the bore to the light. If the slip of card be properly placed the “shade”
can readily be seen. The card slip need not be more than one-quarter of
an inch in width and in length to just fit the muzzle so that it will be
retained in place. It must be placed with the edge of the card toward the
eye.
_Fitting Barrels Together._—When selecting a pair of gun barrels,
preparatory to joining them for the purpose of making a double-barreled
gun, it is necessary to ascertain if the barrels be of the same length,
and have the same size at breech and muzzle, and also at points between
the breech and muzzle. Nearly all shot-gun barrels are ground, or made
some smaller at the centre of their length than at other portions. Any
one who is not conversant with this may be somewhat surprised on placing
a straight-edge along the side of a barrel, a common musket barrel, for
instance. Place the straight-edge on the top or bottom side, as the right
and left hand sides are flattened, near the breech, and, of course, on
these sides the hollowing of the centre is not so readily observed.
As the musket barrel has been mentioned, it may be inferred that two of
these barrels are to be joined together. The first step is to cut them
off at either end, to make them of the length desired, for as issued from
the armories for army use, the barrels are too long to make a gun to be
handled with ease and convenience. If they are cut down to the length
of thirty or thirty-two inches they will be long enough for sporting
purposes. According to the weight of gun desired, cut from either end;
cut off the breech if a light gun is wanted, or cut off the muzzle to
make a heavy gun.
The first step after cutting off and truing up the ends of the barrels,
is to select the two sides to be joined together and file these two
sides flat, more at the breech and less at the muzzle, until the smaller
diameters at the middle just touch each other, without being so filed.
When you have in this way both barrels flattened as nearly alike as
possible and as straight as can be done by testing with a straight-edge,
lay both barrels on a level surface, and see that the flattened places
touch each other true and evenly. To know if the flattening has been done
parallel with the outside flats at the breech (supposing these to be
left on the barrels) place a small square on the same surface on which
the barrels are laid, letting the upright arm of the square just touch
the outside flat. If the square touch the flat alike from top to bottom,
then the flats are parallel, but if there be an open space to be seen,
then file away the flat to be joined until the square indicates that both
inner and outer flats are parallel. Be particular in regard to this,
as it is easier to correct the inner flattened surface than to make
parallel the outer one.
If the same amount be taken from the breech as from the muzzle, the point
of divergence will not be sufficient for accurate shooting. More must
be taken from the breech to allow of this divergence to be extended a
greater distance. The flattening at the muzzle does not require to be
very great, yet must be done to some extent; but, as before remarked,
this will depend upon the smallness or size of the middle portions of the
barrel.
It is very doubtful if any two gunsmiths will agree as to the inclination
of a pair of barrels. Perhaps it would be almost foolishness to insist on
any definite or certain inclination, so that the converging lines would
come to a point. As an instance, let the point of divergence be two and a
half yards, it follows that at forty yards the right barrel, if the gun
were rigidly held as if fixed in a vice, would throw its charge about six
inches to the left of the mark, and the left barrel, _vice versa_.
Let it be supposed that two barrels are each thirty-two inches in length
and one-sixteenth inch thick at the muzzle and three-sixteenths thick
at the breech, it requires the difference four-sixteenths be multiplied
by the times the length of the barrels are contained in the forty
yards, this being forty-five, to ascertain what distance the point of
the different lines are from each other. In this case it is eleven and
one-quarter inches, or five inches and five-eighths of an inch from
the centre or line of sight. It may be remarked that if the point of
convergence be forty yards it will be productive of as good results,
perhaps, as any other.
_Joining Barrels Together._—After the barrels are fitted together so that
they are parallel, touching each other their entire length and equally
in a vertical line, the next thing in order is to fit the top and bottom
ribs. Fit the lower thimble or pipe through which the cross-bolt goes
and cut the under rib to fit both above and below it, as this thimble
is soldered direct to the barrels, not to the rib. Mark along the sides
of the ribs with a sharp scriber, so as to leave a distinct line on the
barrels to indicate their location. File bright and smooth the parts of
the pipe and ribs where they are to be joined to the barrels and tin
with good soft solder. Also tin the barrels where they are to be joined,
and where the ribs come in contact. This is easily done by using a clear
charcoal fire and heating the barrels and ribs quite slowly. Use muriate
of zinc for flux, and apply the solder with a common soldering copper.
If the copper be quite heavy and well heated the ribs can be tinned from
the heat of the copper, as there is no need of putting these parts in the
fire. If the barrels be properly heated and the solder beaten out thin on
an anvil, it may be rubbed on the barrels without the aid of the copper.
When it melts and flows, wipe off the surplus with a woolen rag which has
been slightly moistened with oil.
When the barrels and other parts are nicely tinned, let them cool,
and then fasten them in place in the manner they are to remain with
binding-wire. Put a rod of iron through the lower thimble, and also
through the upper thimbles, if they are to be fastened at this time. The
reason of putting in this rod is twofold: it serves to keep the thimbles
straight with the barrels, so as to properly receive the ramrod, and at
the same time tends to hold the under rib firmly in place.
Before fastening the parts with binding wire, fill the space between the
top rib and barrels with small pieces of solder, or what is better, a
small rod of solder like a wire, but not large enough to interfere with
the rib fitting close to the barrels.
_Soldering Barrels Together._—Now begin to carefully heat the work,
commencing at the breech, and when sufficiently hot, don’t heat too fast
nor too hot, apply solder, using the muriate of zinc as a flux, to the
joinings of the ribs and barrels. If the solder be hammered quite thin it
will be readily melted by the heat of the barrels, and will be “sucked
in” until the space between the different pieces is completely filled.
Proceed carefully in this way until the entire length of the barrels is
gone over. Turn the work often in the fire, so that all portions are
evenly heated. At the muzzle fit and insert a small piece to fill the
interstice between the barrels and the top rib.
It is necessary that all the space between the top rib and the barrels be
completely filled with solder, or rust will form there, which will prove
of serious detriment to the barrels, and in time work under the ribs,
throwing them from the barrels if even a little torsion or springing of
the barrels should ever take place.
During the progress of soldering, see that the parts are kept pressed
close together, and that they do not spring away from each other by their
expansion during heating. A small iron clamp screw placed at the breech
and also one at the muzzle, is very convenient, as by tightening the
screw there is less danger of the parts springing apart. When the breech
is soldered and somewhat cooled, the clamp there placed can be removed.
These clamps, made of malleable iron, can be obtained at the hardware
stores.
When the work is soldered and is cool, wash it well with warm water,
using a stiff brush to remove dirt and all traces of the acid flux that
may remain on the work. With a chisel or scraper remove all superfluous
solder and brighten the work with emery cloth or paper of different
grades. Begin with the coarser and finishing with the fine or with flour
and emery.
_Why not Braze Barrels?_—It was formerly the practice to braze barrels
together, with spelter solder, at the breech or at both breech and
muzzle, but good workmen condemn the practice, as heating the barrels to
a high heat in order to melt this solder somewhat diminishes the strength
of the metal, and as it is also necessary to again clean and brighten the
work after brazing, and to perfectly brighten the flats where they lie
together is not so easy a matter. In the life of the gun, it was found
to be of no real benefit to thus braze them, as the parts were securely
held in place if well soldered with soft solder, and of late years but
very few barrels have been thus brazed.
Select solder of good quality, put the work well together, and the
barrels will remain firmly and rigidly in place, and will not be
separated except by unfair means.
_Percussioning._—The term Percussioning is used to designate the
operations of drilling, and finishing the cone or nipple seat, tapping,
putting in the tube or cone (by some called nipple) and otherwise
finishing up the parts bearing relationship to the cone seat.
The first operation, after ascertaining the locality where to drill the
hole for the nipple, is to drill this hole. If a double gun the nipples
must be inserted as near the centre of the breech as possible to get
them and have a direct communication, with no unnecessary angles, in the
passage-way of the flame of the cap to the powder in the chamber. From
the bottom of the hole drilled for the nipple a small vent, as small as
can conveniently be made, must or ought to communicate directly to the
powder chamber. The nipple ought to be seated or screwed to the bottom of
the hole and the vent be an unbroken continuation of the opening through
the nipple. Let there be no chamber or reservoir between the bottom end
of the nipple and the bottom of the hole in which it is screwed.
[Illustration: FIGURE 33.]
But to return to the drilling. From the axial or central line of the
barrel, this hole must be drilled at an angle of forty-five degrees so
that the nipple when inserted shall stand at that angle. In the cut Fig.
33, _a_ represents the central line of the barrels, _b_ a line at right
angles to this, and _c_ the angle of forty-five degrees. If the workman
have no lathe and is necessitated to use a bit-stock or breast drill, a
piece of iron can be fitted to lay upon the barrels with one end elevated
three or four inches with the end turned at an angle in a hole drilled in
this end to receive the drill, which should fill the hole. By clamping
this upon the barrels, inserting the drill in the hole and having a prick
mark where the hole is to be made for the nipple, it forms a reliable
guide to insure the correctness of the hole, and also to get any number
of holes alike. To insure the hole to be tapped or threaded properly the
guide can be kept in position and the hole tapped after being cupped to
form the seat.
If a lathe be used to drill the hole, a piece of wood or an iron forging
can be fitted to the spindle against which the work is held and when made
of the proper angle and the barrel confined upon it to drill the hole,
no guide is necessary, as the drill being held in the spindle and the
spindle running in its bearings operates upon the same principle as the
guide clamped upon the barrels. An upright drill can be fitted with a
forging or casting to hold the barrels in the same manner.
The size of hole to be drilled ought to be that of the smaller sized
nipples, as in time frequent re-tappings to insert new nipples will
enlarge the hole. Perhaps a broken nipple may necessitate drilling or
cutting out and the thread may be injured somewhat, so that it may have
to be bored out and a new thread made to receive a larger nipple.
[Illustration: FIGURE 34.]
After the hole is drilled it is cupped or a seat formed for the shoulders
of the nipple to rest upon. This is done with the tool shown in Fig. 34.
The guide is used to get the proper angle of this seat, the same as in
drilling. The stem at the end of the cutting portion of the tool, enters
and fills the hole drilled, which insures the correct formation of the
seat. The tap is held in the guide in the same manner and it follows that
the thread has been made at the same angle that the hole was drilled.
_Finishing Nipple Seat._—The filing and finishing of the nipple seat is
one in which tastes differ or the price of the work may demand. This
hint may be given, the seating tool must cut a seat large enough to
receive the nipple and in filing keep this seat full size, taking care
not to allow the file to take away or reduce any portion of it. A study
of this portion of different guns that may come under the observation
of the workman is the best guide for forming and shaping these parts.
The first effort may be to form a nipple seat from a piece of hard wood
shaped like the barrel with its lump, using the drill, the seating tool
and even the tap, then finish up with files, as if it were iron, and
insert the nipple. Better to correct a fault in a “sham” of wood than
spoil a good barrel breech.
_The Vent, in Percussion Gun Barrels._—When the old flint-lock was
pushed to one side by the introduction of the percussion principle, it
was thought by many that there was a difference in shooting and that the
flint-lock shot “smoother” than its substitute. In the percussion gun
there was thought to be more recoil than in the other form of gun. It was
supposed that the hermetically closing of the breech, as the firing took
place, was the cause of this, and to remedy the matter a small vent was
drilled near the locality of the vent or “touch-hole” of the old-time
arm. A few gunsmiths and many users of arms cling to the vent and could
“not do without it.” Some claim that this vent is of use, as it enables
air to circulate through the barrel, after the ignition of the charge.
While both these theories are doubted by others, one thing is quite
certain, it increases the certainty and also aids the rapid ignition of
the charge, as the air contained among the powder and held there in a
more or less state of pressure, being so forced and held by the wadding,
retards in some measure the entrance of the fire from the percussion cap.
The vent allows this confined air to escape, and that is the only real
and apparent good that can be accredited to it. In making these vents
make them very small, and in no instance let them exceed a thirty-second
of an inch. To prevent their being closed by rust or the debris of burnt
powder, drill a larger hole, tap a thread in it and screw in a silver
wire and then drill the vent through the wire after it has been finished
to conform to the shape of the parts adjacent.
_The Patent Breech._—The patent breech has been the subject of much
discussion and much experimenting, some experts claiming one form to be
superior to others, and then again there are those who set the patent
breech aside and claim that the old flat-faced breech-pin is as good
as any ever yet made. The formation of the base of the breech-loading
shell has been called up as evidence in favor of the latter claim. The
two forms are called in question, and then the query is made, “Does
not the breech-loader shoot better or as well as the patent-breeched
muzzle-loader?” But the patent breech is in favor with the mass of those
who use the muzzle-loader, and no doubt has its advantages. The attempt
has been made to form the interior base of a cartridge for breech-loaders
upon the model of the interior of a patent breech, but thus far has not
come into very extensive use.
_Form of the Chamber or Cup._—While many forms of the chamber or cup
of the patent breech are in use, the most simple form, and the one
easiest to make, is that of an inverted elliptical cone. This form may
be represented by the shape of an acorn if it were cut off even with the
top of the cup. The shape is also one that will not weaken the breech nor
affect the strength of the thread where it enters the barrel. The tool
to shape it is easy to make. Turn a piece of steel the exact shape the
“cup” is to be and then make a cutting tool of it by filing a groove on
two sides, exactly like a flat drill of the required elliptical form, but
with a “bulge” or cheek left on each side, and then file a groove mid-way
in this cheek from point to base, and make it so as to form two cutting
edges on each side of the cut first made. Each prominent part must be
formed into cutting edges, like the cutting edges of a conical-shaped
cherry to cut out bullet moulds. The cut, of bullet cherry, Fig. 71,
Chapter XXVII, shows the way to make this tool.
With this form of “cup” there is great solidity of breech, and there need
be but little fear of miss-fire or hang-fire in shooting, if the gun be
properly loaded.
CHAPTER XVII.
TOOLS FOR BREECHING GUNS.
_Breeching Reamers._—The form of breeching reamers is shown in Fig.
35. The extension is supposed to fill the bore of the gun, and when it
does so the tool will make a cut that is straight and true. When this
extension does not fill, then slip a brass ferrule or a piece of tubing
on it, or it may be even wrapped with a piece of card or strong paper, as
mentioned in case of taps that have extensions smaller than the bore of
the gun.
[Illustration: FIGURE 35.]
The size of these reamers must be to suit the taps; that is they must
be of a size corresponding to the tap if the thread were removed. The
length of the extension may be about an inch, and the cutting portion of
a length to correspond to the length of the breech-pins, for when using
them where the reamer has entered the barrel until it is flush or even
with the length of the cutting part, it is evident that it has penetrated
as far as it ought to go. Be careful to keep the reamer well oiled when
using it to ream out a breech.
In making these reamers, turn them to the size and shape, and then file
four spiral flutes, equi-distant from each other, with a small round
file, but remember to file them “right hand,” like a right hand screw
thread. About a quarter’s turn in the length is sufficient. The end where
the cutting is done must be “cut back” between each flute, so as to make
a cutting edge, or lip. The flutes serve to carry the chips away from the
work, and prevent clogging. Above the end of the cutting portion, the
reamer may be turned down to a size a little larger than the extension,
and it will be then a very easy matter to nicely cut the flutes with a
round file, as directed.
_Breeching Taps._—The usual diameters of rifle breech pins are
three-eighths, one-half, and five-eighths of an inch; of shot guns
three-quarters and seven-eighths of an inch. The thread of the rifle is
generally fourteen to the inch, and the shot gun sixteen to the inch. The
breech pins of military arms vary. Some are made with coarse thread and
some with fine thread, ranging from ten to eighteen threads per inch.
There is no arbitrary rule for breeching guns, and excepting English made
guns, almost every conceivable size and thread may be found in guns that
are brought in to be repaired. In rifle and shot guns the fourteen and
sixteen thread will be found to predominate. In unbreeching guns that
have been made by “experts” of some country town, who built the arms “to
order,” or in overhauling guns that have been repaired at the same kind
of establishments, it will not be uncommon to find threads in the barrels
that have been cut with a blacksmith’s taper tap, and the pin tapered to
suit the thread so formed. It will be nothing uncommon to find a breech
that is made to one side of the bore, or made with a crooked thread. If
tapped with the taper tap, the thread may be found to be ten or twelve to
the inch, according as a tap to fit the breech could be found.
Let the workman discard all such ways of breeching guns. Let him procure
a set of taps of the sizes and threads as noticed at the beginning of
this article, and “stick to these sizes.” If the thread in a gun be worn,
and the pin be loose or leak fire, then ream out the old thread, cut it
anew, and put in a new pin.
[Illustration: FIGURE 36.]
Breeching taps should be made in pairs, one tapered a little and its
mate made straight and with a full thread, so as to cut full at the
bottom where the thread terminates. If the first tap be not tapered a
little, the thread should be nearly all removed at the end, and gradually
increased for five or six threads, when it will be of full size. A
stem or projection is made as shown in the cut, Fig. 36, which enters
and fills the bore of the gun and so serves to insure a thread straight
with the barrel. If the bore be larger than the extension, slip over it
a piece of brass tube or a ferrule of some kind, until it fits a little
snug in the bore. If but little be wanting to make the fit, a piece of
writing paper or a bit of card may be wrapped around it. Old-fashioned
gunsmiths have been known to wind tow around an extension to make a fit.
[Illustration: FIGURE 37.]
The diameter of these extensions must be that of the smallest bored gun
in which they will be used. The extension of the shot-gun tap may be
about half-inch diameter. The length of the extension may be about an
inch for rifles and an inch and a quarter for shot guns, the thread about
an inch in length. The whole length of rifle taps may be about three and
a half inches, for shot-guns about four inches.
_Breech Pin Formers._—These tools are made of steel and have holes
drilled through them and cutting teeth formed on one end (as shown in
Fig. 37). In use it may be held stationary, and the breech-pin turned in
the hole until the teeth form it to size and remove enough in length for
the screw to be cut on the pin. Eight teeth are enough for the smaller
sizes of these tools. If made with more teeth they are consequently
finer and shallower and do not operate so well, or cannot be ground to
an edge or sharpened with an oil stone if they become dull. The sizes
must correspond with the size of the breech taps, or a little less
than this size, as the dies used in cutting generally “raise” a thread
a little larger than the work. The length of these tools may be about
three-fourths of an inch or an inch, as may be best to make them. In use
they can be held in a lathe chuck and the pin presented to them while
running, or the operation may be reversed, the pin being rotated and the
cutter held stationary. If to be used by hand, hold them in a vise or
clamp, or make a fixture to hold the pin, using a bit-stock for turning
them for cutting.
The advantage of these tools is that the work is done quick, the body of
the pin is of the same diameter, and the shoulder where it abuts against
the barrel is true with the body; using a file for the work, it is
difficult to produce these requirements.
CHAPTER XVIII.
TOOLS FOR CHAMBERING BREECH-LOADING BARRELS.
When chambering barrels for breech-loaders, the utmost care should be
observed to make the chamber exactly concentric with the bore, and have
it smooth and well finished. Do not trust to a drill or a flat reamer;
neither will a half-round or a common fluted reamer answer the purpose.
Take, for instance, a bore for a thirty-eight cartridge. Fig. 38 shows
the tool for chambering, and Fig. 39 the tool for recessing for the head
of the cartridge. The diameter of the tool for chambering is thirteen
sixty-fourths. The tool for recessing for the head is seven-sixteenths.
The body of the cutting portion is about seven-eighths or an inch long.
An extension is formed beyond the cutting part which must exactly fill
the bore of the barrel and serves as a guide to insure the cutting part
making the chamber in proper relation to the bore.
[Illustration: FIGURE 38.]
The neck or recess in front of the cutting part is for a three-fold
purpose; it forms a receptacle for the chips or cuttings, which otherwise
would clog the tool as soon as the teeth were filled, and would probably
result in a rough surface by being forced between the wall of the chamber
and the tool back of the teeth; it also serves to produce a better shaped
tooth, which is done with a fine cut three-square file, and finally by
the teeth being made below the surface of the extension a square cut is
produced with no feather edge where the chamber terminates.
[Illustration: FIGURE 39.]
The cutting teeth of the chambering tool are made so as to produce a
bevel at the end of the chamber, and by this means avoid shaving the
ball, as would be the case if it passed over a sharp angle. The recessing
tool is made square on the cutting end.
[Illustration: FIGURE 40.]
For larger bores than a forty-four, the tools may be advantageously made
a little different, as shown in Fig. 40. The shank of the tool may be
made of a cheaper grade of steel and the extension much smaller than the
bore of the gun. At _a_, is shown a steel thimble that is turned to the
proper size and has teeth cut on the end. This is tempered and is put on
over the extension and held by a wire or pin passing through both thimble
and extension. At _b_ is another thimble, made preferably of brass, that
fits the bore. It can then be worked in the barrel with less fear of
scratching the barrel, as might be the case if it were of steel or iron.
The space left between the brass thimble and the teeth forms a recess to
receive the cuttings. The diameter of a twelve gauge chambering tool will
be about forty-nine sixty-fourths, and the diameter of the chambering
tool will be about twenty-seven thirty-seconds. The length of the cutting
thimbles can be about one inch. The brass thimbles about three-quarters
of an inch. The cutting thimbles should rest against a shoulder, as at
_c_. These thimbles should be fastened, a finish turned on the shanks on
which they are to remain, after the shanks are turned. The brass thimbles
are held by being driven on the extension, and should be turned up true
after being driven in place.
When making these tools, form the cutter for the chamber about
one-hundredth of an inch larger than the bore of the cartridge to allow
for easy extraction. The brass thimbles ought to be of the size of the
interior of the cartridge, which is supposed to be exactly the same as
the bore. The tool for recessing the head may be a trifle larger, say
about a thirty-second, than the diameter of the cartridge head. If it be
made one-sixteenth larger it will not matter. Eight cutting teeth are
enough for these tools.
CHAPTER XIX.
ON GUN RIBS.
_How to Straighten a Gun Rib._—Gun ribs, as received from the
manufacturer or dealer, are more or less crooked and winding and must be
made straight before being fastened to the gun barrel. Sometimes this
straightening can be done with the hands alone, by bending and twisting
the rib. If there are short crooks, the hammer must be used. Select a
hammer that has a flat pene and this pene must be “across” or at right
angles to the handle. See that the pene is not too sharp, but smooth and
rounded at its edge. Place the rib to be straightened on a piece of hard
wood plank, or what is better, get a piece of two-inch plank about a foot
wide and long enough to reach from the floor to a height a little above
the work-bench, say about the height of the top of the vise. It may be
held in an upright position by means of a screw passing through it into
the bench, or it can be so held by setting it on the floor and clamping
one side between the jaws of the vise. On this hold the rib, lengthwise
with the end of the plank, and using the pene of the hammer, strike blows
on the inner or curved side of the rib. Do not strike hard enough to
dent or bruise the rib so as to show on the opposite side. By a little
practice a rib can be made very straight and true.
_How to Fit a Rib._—Sometimes one side of a rib is longer than the other.
Fit it into a properly shaped groove in a piece of board, clamp it so as
to hold firmly and file away the longer side so as to match the narrow
one. The clamps can be made of two pieces of wood placed on each side of
the part to be filed, holding them and the rib with wood screws, the rib
being moved along as a portion is filed.
_How to Fit a Rib to an Octagon Barrel._—To fit a rib to an octagon
barrel, file the portion where it comes in contact, square across so as
to have all the surface possible to touch the barrel. To fit it to a
round barrel, file lengthwise with a half-round file, and so file that
the outer edges will fit close, leaving the inner edges a little open,
or not quite touching the barrel. A half-round file for fitting ribs to
round barrels should have the tang bent toward the flat side so that when
the file handle is put on, it will not interfere with filing.
_How to Solder on a Rib._—The inner edges of the rib must be filed bright
and smooth, so must that portion where it touches the barrel. Bear in
mind that solder will not adhere, unless the surface is made bright. This
being done wet a short length of the rib with soldering acid, warm it
to a proper heat in the forge fire, and with a common soldering copper,
also properly heated, tin or cover the melted surface with solder. With
the acid wet another distance, say about three inches, heat and tin this,
and so repeat until the entire length of the rib has been gone over. Be
careful to have plenty of solder adhering to the inner sides. Also be
very careful not to heat the rib so as to blue or blacken it, for when so
done no solder will adhere, and the surface so made must be brightened up
again before going any further with the tinning.
The next thing to be done is to draw-file the gun barrel where the rib is
to be fastened on, and care must be taken to have the surface bright and
clean, or the solder will not adhere. Place the breech end of the barrel
in a clean charcoal fire and carefully warm it sufficiently, wet with the
acid, and with the soldering copper tin over where it was draw-filed.
Two tests can be applied to learn if the barrel be sufficiently heated.
One is that when a drop of acid is put on it will “sizzle” or boil; the
other test is to hold it close to the cheek and if a warm “glow” of heat
is felt from it, it is hot enough.
When the surface is tinned, and before the barrel is cold enough so as
to harden the solder, wipe off the surplus with a rag, and if the rag be
slightly oiled, it will operate all the better. The solder used is common
soft solder such as used by tinsmiths. Repeat the process of heating
and tinning three or four inches at a time, until the entire length of
the barrel has been gone over. Then, after it is cool, place the rib in
position, confining it in place with binding wire, putting it round both
rib and barrel, twisting the ends pretty firmly together. Fasten the rib
in this way, at intervals of about six inches, being careful that the rib
is held evenly, closely and firmly to the barrel.
Now commence at the breech, heat both barrel and rib carefully, avoiding
all smoke and soot, wetting the joint on each side of the rib with the
acid, touching the part with solder taken up on the point of the heated
soldering copper. The surplus solder on the inner surface of the rib will
flow down to the joint, between the rib and the barrel, as it is heated,
and by touching the joint with the copper charged with solder, the outer
edges of the joint will be completely filled, and both barrel and rib
be perfectly united. So continue until the rib is soldered its entire
length. When cool remove the binding wires, and wash thoroughly with warm
water. This will remove the acid, which would otherwise rust the bright
surface. Wipe dry and if the work is to stand for any length of time, oil
it lightly by rubbing it over with a rag that is moistened with oil.
The best way to remove the surplus solder at the joints is by means of
scrapers. Take an old flat file, about six inches long, grind the teeth
clean off on each side for an inch or two at the end, and also grind the
end “square.” By using this tool in the same way that a chisel is used,
it is very effective. A scraper made of an old three-square file with the
teeth ground away at the end is also a good tool. Carefully remove all
traces of solder or it will show after the barrel has been used a little.
If the work is to be browned, the browning will not “take” where the
solder remains.
_How to Re-solder Ribs._—It often happens that double guns are brought
in that have the top rib loosened from the barrels at the breech, and
sometimes the soldering of the barrels, also at the breech, has been
broken, so that they are quite separated. The cause of this is generally
an effort to remove the patent breeches by some one who has not the
proper appliances for the work. The barrels being caught in a vise, and
a monkey-wrench, or some similar kind of wrench, applied, and as the
breeches fit very tight, perhaps being rusted somewhat, considerable
force is applied, and the torsion or twisting so occasioned starts and
separates the parts as described.
To re-unite these parts, remove the breeches, carefully raise the rib
as far as can be done without bending it, and hold it thus in place by
inserting a slip of wood so as to retain it. Use a slim-pointed scraper
and scrape bright and clean the surface of the rib, and both barrels,
where the rib comes in contact. Tin the parts with a heavy soldering
copper, but do not put them in the fire to heat them; rely solely on
the heat of the copper, taking time to do the work. When nicely tinned,
put the rib in place, confining it with binding wire, and finish the
soldering in the forge fire, the same as when putting on new ribs.
Before putting the rib in place, fill the space between the rib and
barrels pretty full of solder, cut in strips, like pieces of wire. If
necessary, use the copper to assist the soldering, as they are being
worked in the fire.
A scraper for such work may be made of a small three-square file, say
about four inches long; grind the sides so as to remove the teeth, and
sharpen to a point.
As a precaution against starting the rib from the barrel by heating, put
pieces of binding wire tightly around, both above and below, twisting
them tightly. With this security there will be no harm done even if the
solder be melted between rib and barrel, in proximity to the thimble.
_Height of Ribs._—The only way to ascertain the proper height of a gun
rib, when put on the barrels, is to take the length of the barrels, and
from this length make the calculation, as different lengths require some
difference in height of rib. It is to be supposed that forty yards is the
distance from the shooter to the object fired at, and at this distance
a heavy charge of shot will drop about twelve inches. As the sights on
shot guns are fixed, it is necessary that the rib be so elevated as to
compensate for this dropping of twelve inches. Of course a lighter charge
of shot will not drop so much as the heavy one, but the calculation may
be based on the heavy charge.
To ascertain the elevation at the breech, take the thickness of the
breech and muzzle and multiply the difference by as many times as the
length of the barrels is contained in the forty yards. This gives the
elevation of the barrels without the rib, and the difference must be
made out by elevating the rib. Many shooters complain that when their
barrels have been shortened the shooting is not the same, and they
lay this fault to the barrels being cut shorter, when it is often due
to the difference of elevation from that they were accustomed to use.
Suppose a pair of barrels were to be shortened, say, four inches, at the
same elevation there will be more lengths in the forty yards, hence a
difference in the sighting and consequently in the shooting.
The calculation for the elevation of ribs is the same as that given for
fitting barrels together, and the same principles there given will apply
to this subject.
CHAPTER XX.
ON THIMBLES.
_How to Make Thimbles._—What is called a thimble by gunsmiths is the
short tube, soldered, or otherwise attached to the gun barrel, which
retains the ramrod in place when not in use. To make these thimbles, form
them on a piece of steel about a foot long, turned tapering; the large
end being about nine-sixteenths, and the small end about five-sixteenths
of an inch in diameter. This will answer for about all sizes of wooden
rods as they are purchased. These rods are generally, the largest of
them, about five-eighths of an inch diameter at the large end and about
three-eighths at the small end.
The thimbles may be made of brass, iron, or German silver, according
to taste, but iron is generally preferred. Take common sheet or Russia
iron, the same as used for making stove-pipe. The best thickness is about
twenty-two or twenty-three, by the English gauge. For convenience, get
the sheet cut in strips from an inch to an inch and a-half in width—the
tinsmith’s squaring shears being a ready means to cut up the sheet
into strips. Generally make the upper thimble about an inch and a half
long, and the lower or middle thimbles, be these one or two, a little
narrower, say, about an inch. For permanency and looks a long thimble
is preferable. Cut off pieces from the strips of sheet-iron, just long
enough to go around the ramrod, then roll them up like a tube by bending
them around a tapered steel rod, using a small hard wood mallet for the
purpose, holding them in the vise to assist in the operation.
For rifle rods, which are not tapered, the thimbles may be rolled up on
a straight piece of steel, a trifle larger than the rod, so that the rod
will slide easily within when put in place. Take pains in forming them,
so that the fold or joint will come evenly and squarely together.
_How to Put Thimbles on Barrels._—File bright and tin the thimbles where
they are to be joined to the rib. Observe if the thimbles fit the rod
properly by putting the rod in them and then inserting the rod in place
in the gun stock. Mark the place on the rib or barrel where the thimbles
are to be fastened, and remove both rod and thimbles from the gun. If to
be attached to a rib, file a spot the length of the thimbles where it
was marked, and file it of a depth equal to the thickness of the metal
of which the thimble is made. Too deep filing may cut through the rib,
and too little filing will leave the thimble projecting above the rib, so
that the rod will hit or rub as it is being pushed down in place. Also
let the joint of the thimble come in the centre of the rib when it is
soldered in place. Tin the places filed, by heating the barrel carefully
over the forge fire, using the soldering acid as for tinning the
thimbles. A common tinner’s soldering copper is best to apply the solder.
When the barrel is cool enough to handle put the thimbles on the rod,
and the rod in place as it is intended to be when finished. Confine the
thimbles to the barrel with pieces of binding wire, using two pieces to
a thimble, one at each end. By putting the rod into the thimbles and
confining them thus, there is no danger of their being “askew” after
being fastened, and by putting on two wires there is less danger of their
moving while being soldered to the barrel.
Make a clear fire in the forge, using charcoal if it can be obtained,
heat the barrel very carefully until small pieces of solder will be
melted when placed on the inside of the thimble. Have the soldering
copper heated, and by using it and applying the acid an even amount of
the solder can be applied to the joint outside the thimble where it joins
the barrel. When all are soldered let the barrel cool, remove the binding
wires and wash with warm water to remove the acid flux, which would rust
the work. A stiff brush is best to wash with. Scrape off the superfluous
solder, rub the thimbles bright with emery-cloth, or let them remain the
black color, as may be desired.
CHAPTER XXI.
ON RIFLING OF GUNS.
_Importance of Rifling._—In a rifle the grooving is of the utmost
importance; for velocity without accuracy is useless. To determine
the best kind of groove has been, accordingly, the object of the most
laborious investigations. The ball requires an initial rotary motion
sufficient to keep it “spinning” up to its range, and is found to gain in
accuracy by increasing this rotary speed; but if the pitch of the grooves
be too great, the ball will refuse to follow them; but being driven
across them, “strips”—that is, the lead in the grooves is torn off, and
the ball goes on without rotation. The English gun-smiths avoided the
dilemma by giving the requisite pitch and making the grooves very deep,
and even by having wings or lugs cast on the ball to keep it in the
grooves—expedients which increase the friction in the barrel and the
resistance of the air enormously.
The American gun-makers solved the problem by adopting the “gaining
twist,” in which the grooves start from the breech nearly parallel to
the axis of the barrel, and gradually increase the spiral, until, at the
muzzle, it has the pitch of one revolution in three to four; the pitch
being greater as the bore is less. This gives, as a result, safety from
stripping, and a rapid revolution at the exit, with comparatively little
friction and shallow groove-marks on the ball, accomplishing what is
demanded of a rifled barrel, to a degree that no other combination of
groove and form of missile ever has. There is no way of rifling so secure
as that in which the walls of the grooves are parts of radii of the bore.
They should be numerous, that the hold of the lands, or the projection
left between the grooves, may divide the friction and resistance as much
as possible, and so permit the grooves to be as shallow as may be. Fig.
41 represents grooves cut in this way, but exaggerated to show more
clearly their character. In the Kentucky rifle this law is followed,
except that for convenience in rifling, the grooves are made of the same
width at the bottom and top, as shown in Fig. 42, which is, for the
grooves of the depth of which they are generally made, practically the
same, the depth in the cut being two or three times that generally used.
[Illustration: FIGURE 41.]
_U. S. Rifling Machines._—The rifling machines in use by the U. S.
Government at the Springfield Armory for cutting their grooved rifles
may thus be described: The barrel is placed in a horizontal position in
an iron frame, and held there very firmly. The grooves are made by three
short steel cutters placed within three mortices, made to receive them,
near the end of a steel tube which is moved through the bore of the barrel
by slow rotary and progressive motion. The cutters are narrow pieces of
steel having upon one side three angular shaped teeth about one-sixteenth
of an inch in height, and of the width of the groove, ground to a very
sharp edge at the top. It is these which produce the rifling. The three
cutters, when inserted in the tube, form upon their inner surface a small
opening which decreases toward the inner end. Into this is inserted a
tapered steel rod, and is so controlled by a connecting cog-wheel that
this rod is pushed, at every revolution, a little further into the
tapered opening formed by the inner edges of the three cutters. The
effect of this is to increase the pressure of the cutters upon the inner
surface of the barrel, and thus gradually, at each stroke of the machine,
deepen the cuts as produced by the rifling. The rod makes about twelve
revolutions in a minute and it occupies about thirty minutes to rifle a
barrel.
[Illustration: FIGURE 42.]
_Old-Fashioned Rifling Machine._—But the gun-maker who builds rifles
to order, and perhaps then but a single one at a time, uses quite a
different apparatus for rifling, although the principle involved is the
very same. Many of the old gunsmiths made their own rifling machines.
The simplest form was a common joist, two inches thick and six inches
wide. The length about twice that of any barrel to be rifled. At one end,
on the narrow side, was fixed in two bearings, one at each end so as to
turn freely, an old rifle barrel. At the other end of the timber, in a
line with the barrel was fixed two standards in which to firmly fasten
the barrel to be rifled. At the end of the old rifle barrel, and on
the end nearest to the end of the timber was fixed a circular plate of
iron, like a wheel which was made with divisions on its circumference,
and had a catch which was fastened to the wood, and when the end of
this catch engaged one of the divisions it would firmly hold the barrel
in place. When this plate was turned the barrel also turned. Inside of
this barrel was placed a rod of iron, around which was cast some soft
metal, as babbit metal or old type metal, or even lead. This was done by
putting the rod in the barrel and then pouring in the metal when melted.
A handle, similar to an auger handle was fixed transversely to one end,
but in such a manner as to turn around freely on the rod. As the rod was
pushed back and forth the soft metal followed the rifling grooves, and
this caused a turn, first in one direction and then in another. By the
rod being loose on the handle the hands were held in the same position.
The rifling rod was attached to the opposite end of the rod in the old
barrel and carried a cutter let into a narrow groove made in the extreme
end of the rifling rod. Very often these rods were made of wood like a
straight ramrod. It is evident if a barrel be placed in the clamps and
the rifling rod bearing a suitable cutter be entered in the bore of the
barrel and the rod thrust forward by pushing it with the handle, that a
faint spiral like cut will be the result. When the cutter had done its
work, or done all that it would cut, the plate was turned one division,
rotating the old barrel with the rifling rod just that amount, the barrel
to be rifled, of course, not being turned at all. Another cutting was
done like the first one, then another, and so on until the complete
circle of the divisions had been made, and a certain number of faint
rifles made in the fixed barrel. The cutter was then removed from its
slot, a slip of writing paper placed in the bottom of the slot and the
cutter put in place and a repetition of the same operation gone over
again, and then repeated until the rifling was of the desired depth. Oil
was supplied to the centres while going back and forth in their work.
_Gain Twist Rifling Machine._—What is called a gain twist was made with
a slightly different apparatus. What is termed a “lead” was fixed so
as to revolve in standards, and at the same time be capable of being
thrust forward and pulled back to its starting place. This lead carried
at one end the rifling rod. At the opposite end the handle for operating
it, was fixed. The lead was several inches in diameter and the holes
in the standards that supported it of like diameter. One make of lead
had a groove cut spiralling in its surface and exactly the same as the
rifling to be made. In one of the standards a stud was fixed that entered
the groove and compelled it to turn according as the groove was made.
The barrel to be rifled was fixed so as to turn as needed to make the
different rifles or grooves. Another make of lead had a rib made of a
strip of hard wood that was bent around the rod and was held in place by
screws. This rib was the counterpart of the rifling and was received in a
mortice cut for it in one of the standards, the management of the rifling
rod being the same in all cases.
_Re-rifling._—One method of re-rifling is to make a rod with a mortice in
one end to receive a rifling cutter or “saw” as some term them, and fix
at the other end a handle like an auger handle, but so fixed that the rod
will turn around freely no matter how the handle may be held. This rod
is inserted in the barrel to be re-rifled and the cutter forced through
one of the rifles, which must be deep enough to force it to follow its
direction when pushed forward and pulled back until it would cut no more,
it would be placed in another rifle and so continued until the circuit of
the rifling is made. A slip of paper is then put under the cutter and a
repetition of the process made and continued until the rifles are cut as
deep as desired.
If it be feared that the rifles, opposite to those where the cutter is at
work, will be injured by its bearing upon them, a dove-tailed groove is
made across the rod opposite where the cutter is placed, and in this is
fitted a slip of wood that is cut to fit the curvature of the base of the
barrel. If a bit of half-round file or a cutter be made to be inserted
in place of the slip of wood, the lands can be finished at the same time
that the grooves are being cut deeper.
When barrels are so worn that the rifles have not depth enough to hold
the tool described for re-rifling, another process must be resorted to.
Make a rod of hard wood about six or seven inches long and so as to slide
easily through the barrel. In one end of this fix the cutter. Around the
other end cast lead or other soft metal so as to fill the rifles. It is
evident if this short rod be forced through the barrel by means of a
longer one, that it must turn with the rifling, being so forced to do
by the soft metal engaging the several rifles. The operation of working
being the same as previously described.
CHAPTER XXII.
ON GUN LOCKS.
_Quality of Locks._—It is impossible to judge the quality of a gun lock
by a mere examination, for if the metal be not the very best and the
workmanship be also good, some portions, as a spring, may grow weak and
in an unguarded moment give way. If the mainspring be not thoroughly
tempered it may break the first time it be used on a frosty morning. It
is well to see if the attachment of the stirrup or swivel be well made
and fitted, as this controls the movements and play of the mainspring.
The fitting of the sear spring on the sear is important. If too much
cramped, it may give way; if not enough cramped, then it may grow weak
and there will not be that sharp, clear click that the admirer of a good
lock likes to hear.
On the hanging of the swivel or stirrup depends the smoothness of play
of the mainspring. On the placing of the hole for the sear-pin depends
the sweetness of the sear operating on the tumbler. On the pitching of
the sear depends the cutting of the notches of the tumbler, and on the
formation of the first notch depends the liability of the lock catching
at half-cock when the trigger is made to be easily pulled from the full
cock notch. On the formation of the half-cock notch depends the safety
of carrying the arm at half-cock.
_The Back Action Lock._—There are various forms of gun locks, and each
form has its admirers. The back action shown in Fig. 43 admits of the
arm being put together more strongly and securely than any other plan.
Other advantages claimed for it are that the mainspring can be made
longer and will therefore be less liable to break, and by such length
has a smoother working motion to the hammer. As the lock plate is almost
entirely surrounded by the wood of the stock, there is less liability of
wet getting into the interior, and this may especially be the case as the
hand, in carrying the gun, covers some portion of the lock.
[Illustration: FIGURE 43.]
_The Bar Lock._—This lock, Fig. 44, is so called from a bar formed at the
breech end of the barrel, and to this bar the lock is fitted. The great
advantage of this lock is that it admits of the stock to be so shaped
that the grasp of the hand naturally tightens as the gun is raised to the
shoulder. The objection raised by some to this lock is that it is more
pervious to wet than the back action lock.
This lock possesses the advantage of having an arm of the tumbler so made
that by the swivel or stirrup being hung upon that when the lock is at
full cock the weight of the spring force is lessened by the arm acting as
a lever to bring the moving force in the immediate vicinity of the axis
on which the tumbler turns, and when the spring is bringing the hammer
down on the nipple, increasing that force by divergence. It is sometimes
called the Full Bar Lock.
[Illustration: FIGURE 44.]
_Side Action Lock._—In Fig. 45 is shown another form of lock, commonly
called a side action. The mechanism and arrangement is similar to the
full bar, but it has a shoulder that fits up to the barrel. If the gun
be fitted with a plug or cylinder a suitable half round recess is cut in
this shoulder to receive the plug.
[Illustration: FIGURE 45.]
_The Wesley Bar._—The Wesley bar shown in Fig. 46 differs from the
common bar lock by being of different shape at the fore end, and this
end does not fit up to the barrel like the bar lock. By the wood almost
surrounding the plate, the interior is pretty well protected from wet. It
has the same merit of the stock being so shaped as to tighten in the hand
when raised to take sight. This lock has one objection, the wood between
the lock-plate and barrel has to be cut so thin that the recoil of the
gun is very apt to break and splinter it.
_The Central Lock._—There is a grade of guns made with locks enclosed
in the breech, or a continuation of the breech, in the same manner as
common revolvers and other pistol locks are made. A view of this lock is
given in Fig. 47. The principle is much the same as the back action lock
when the hammer is placed on one side as in the back action lock. One
side of the frame has the same office as the lock plate, and the other
side supports the tumbler and other parts the same as the bridle. The
formation of the tumbler is such that no sear is necessary, the trigger
bearing directly against it; the point of the trigger having the same
office as the nose of the tumbler, a small spring keeping it to place to
catch in the tumbler notches. Generally this form of lock has the hammer
placed directly in the central line of the bore of the barrel, and when
so placed the lower end of the hammer has the same office as the tumbler
and is shaped and has notches cut as in a side lock tumbler. As this form
of lock has few parts, and has a long feather-like mainspring, it is easy
and pleasant to operate.
[Illustration: FIGURE 46.]
_Cleaning Locks, etc._—While the gunsmith will be called upon to clean
and repair various parts of fire-arms, the lock is the part with which
he will have considerable to do. And, in most kind of guns, it is the
most complicated part, and, consequently, the most difficult part to
manage. Not a few gun-owners look upon it as a kind of mystery without
the range of ordinary comprehension, hence they carry it to the shop, not
only at the slightest indication of “something wrong,” but so often as it
would seem to need thorough cleaning and oiling. This is all well enough,
for the gun as much as anything comes clearly within the application of
the rule which admonishes that “a stitch in time saves nine.” All of
which being the case, one of the earliest things that the gunsmith will
be called upon to study will be
[Illustration: FIGURE 47.]
_How to Take Down a Lock._—Having removed the lock from the gun, set the
hammer at full-cock. Apply the hand-vise, or mainspring clamp, if he has
one, to the mainspring, having first placed a bit of chamois skin or
felt between the jaws of the vise and the spring to prevent bruising or
scratching the polished surface of the latter. Turn up the vise gently
until the hammer feels loose. Now press upon the sear-spring and let down
the hammer. The mainspring is now entirely loose, and may be lifted out
with the vise. This ends the complication of the lock; it is now only
a plain machine, with parts held into position by screws, which may be
removed one at a time until every piece has been taken from the plate.
In taking down a lock the beginner should work slowly and cautiously,
thinking in every case before acting. His screwdriver should be pressed
well-down in the notch of every screw to prevent damage to the head,
and if he apprehends the slightest danger of getting “things mixed,” he
should lay each screw and its piece in different places upon his bench.
Of course, there will be no such necessity after a few locks have been
taken down, but such a necessity might exist at the very beginning; at
least there is no harm to grow out of taking what is known to be the safe
side in every case.
The directions given for taking down, refer to the common lock, while
locks of some of the modern guns will be made on plans quite different.
But the principle will be the same, and hence there is no reasonable
demand for going into further detail. The first object will be to get
control of the mainspring so that it can be lifted out with ease. This
attained, and all the rest of the work is easy enough.
_To Clean and Oil the Lock._—Botches usually wipe the old oil and dirt
from the parts with a rag, put on fresh oil, and then put the lock
together again. This is a poor way, for a portion of the old gummy oil
will be left to combine with the new, thus soon making it about as bad
as the old. Every part should be thoroughly cleansed and dried before
any new oil is used. First wipe the dirt and old oil off as thoroughly
as possible with a piece of cloth or felt, and then rub it over with
powdered chalk or Spanish whiting. Next brush off and rub with a stiff
brush such as is used by jewelers or watchmakers. This will remove all
the old oil, after which the new oil may be applied.
Cases may turn up in which the lock has been long neglected, and the oil
and dirt have gummed together so badly as not to admit of wiping off. In
such cases the parts should be soaked for a short time in kerosene or in
benzine, which is still better. This will dissolve the gum and render it
easy of removal.
In oiling, only oil enough should be applied to lubricate the parts—there
is much more danger of getting on too much oil than too little. It should
be put on with a stubbed camel’s hair brush or pencil, as the painters
call it, and with extreme lightness. And there is but one kind of oil fit
to be used on a lock, the very best “watchmaker’s oil” obtainable. Such
an oil is comparatively costly, but a single bottle, costing 25 cents,
will oil hundreds of locks, hence the cost is really not entitled to
consideration, on account of its being so decidedly superior to any other
oil in use.
_How to Put up a Lock._—In taking down the lock the last thing removed
was the sear-spring, perhaps—it is most convenient to make that the last
thing. Now, in putting up the lock, that is the first part to claim our
attention. Screw the sear-spring into position, then the sear; next put
in the tumbler, and then put on the bridle. Having this all right, screw
on the hammer and let it down. Then take the mainspring, clamped as it
was at the taking down, hook it on to the swivel, and bring it up until
the little steady-pin is in its hole in the plate. Now unscrew the vise
and the lock is ready for work.
It will be necessary to always handle the mainspring with care. It is
the first thing to come off in taking down, and the last to go on in
putting up the lock; and the vise or clamp must be turned upon it only
just enough to bring it loose, and no more. If more, it may be damaged,
possibly broken.
Handling the parts of a lock with chamois skin or paper, is a good idea,
while brushing off the chalk and rubbing them clean with the brush,
and it is also a good idea not to touch them with the naked fingers
afterwards. Few gunsmiths would be inclined to take this precaution, but
it is worthy of consideration if one desires to be ranked among the very
best and most careful of workmen; as handling with the naked fingers
is apt to leave the parts in such a condition as will cause them to
eventually rust, slightly at least.
CHAPTER XXIII.
ON FITTING GUN HAMMERS.
_To Fit a Hammer on a Tumbler._—To file the hole in a gun-hammer so that
it will rest firmly and evenly upon the squared end of the tumbler,
has tested the skill and patience of nearly every gunsmith. The usual
practice is to drill a hole nearly the diameter of the square of the
tumbler, then file this hole until it fits the square, and unless
skill and patience are brought into requisition, and a nice fit be the
result, the hammer soon works loose, then needs refitting. The remedy
then generally is, remove the hammer from the tumbler and close the
hole a little by cutting around the squared opening, a little distance
back from the edge, with a sharp cold chisel, thus throwing some of the
metal inward, closing the hole a trifle. The hammer is then put upon the
tumbler, and if it be a little tight is driven to place with a hammer.
After some usage it becomes loose again, and has to be again refitted.
It is evident that unless what might be called a “perfect fit” be made,
that the sudden arrest of the hammer upon the tube or cone, as it
descends by force of the mainspring, will cause some slight displacement
of metal where the hammer and tumbler come in juxtaposition. A repetition
of these sudden arrests increases the displacement, and often there is
considerable looseness of the parts.
[Illustration: FIGURE 48.]
_The Drift for Squaring the Hole._—The remedy for this is very simple,
and can be performed with but little labor. After the hole in the hammer
is drilled introduce the end of a square drift, and drive it steadily
through with blows of a hammer. The drift will cut a clean hole, the
exact counterpart of its form, and this hole will need no finishing, if
the drift be properly made to insure its correctness as to being smooth
and true. Bear in mind that while driving the drift, the work must
rest evenly and solidly upon some firm support, but in such a way that
the tool will easily pass through. The drift is shown in Fig. 48. In
construction it is a rod of steel filed or so shaped that its transverse
section is of the precise form that the hole is to be made, and too
great care cannot be taken to insure its being as correct as possible.
The entering end of the tool should be made round, and almost fill the
hole as drilled in the hammer, and it should increase gradually in size
until it arrives at the full proportions and then gradually decrease to
the upper end, so that it will readily pass through the opening made by
the larger portion. On the sides of this tool are cut teeth that extend
around it, being continued from side to side after the manner of a screw
thread upon a bolt. It will be observed by reference to the cut that the
teeth commence on each side of the square and resemble a four-threaded
screw, with saw-shaped teeth, made upon a square rod. A file is the most
ready tool to cut these teeth. Forge the steel carefully, temper equally,
and do not leave too hard. When properly made it will last for an untold
amount of work.
The number of cuts or teeth to the inch may be about ten. There must be
sufficient depth between the teeth to receive the cuttings, and they must
be made strong enough to withstand the hammer blows. In driving use oil
on the teeth, and be careful to keep it upright, so as to form a hole
that will enable the gun-hammer to stand properly on the tumbler.
If it be feared that there will be a variation of the hole from the
“square,” turn the drift a quarter turn after the first driving and drive
again; then turn another quarter and drive the third time, and so on of
the fourth.
The drift may be made of almost any shape, and will produce holes of
irregular form as readily as square ones. Another example is the mortice
in the loop attached under gun-barrels, through which the bolt passes,
and also the same size mortice or slot in escutcheons, which are let into
the stock, through which the same bolt passes. The holes in small solid
wrenches to receive square or six-sided nuts can be readily and easily
made in the same manner.
_A Tool for Fitting Hammers to Gun Locks._—The usual practice in fitting
hammers to gun locks is to measure with the dividers the distance from
the centre of the tumbler, where it projects beyond the lock-plate, to
the centre of the tube or cone, and so get the length of the hammer; then
drill the hole in the hammer, square this hole by the rule of “guess,”
and file until it fits upon the square of the tumbler.
[Illustration: FIGURE 49.]
A simple tool can be made by any gunsmith, that will greatly facilitate
his operations in fitting hammers. The accompanying cut (Fig. 49) shows
this tool in full size. It is made of iron or steel, one-eighth of an
inch thick. The body, A, of the tool is one-half inch wide, and has
a slot, _a_, three-sixteenths of an inch wide and one inch long. The
curved slot, _b_, is the same width, and embraces about one-fourth of a
circle. The nose-piece, B, is shaped like the top portion of a hammer,
and is held to the body, A, by a screw, _c_, and to insure its moving
in a line, and being held properly in the slot, _a_, there is a small
stud, _d_, that fills the slot. In the lower curved portion of the body,
which is seven-eighths of an inch in diameter, there is a five-eighths
hole, which receives the round portion of the piece, C. This piece has
an extension, as shown by the dotted lines, and is held to A by a screw,
_e_. The square hole in this piece is intended to fit the square of the
tumbler of the lock. The thickness of C, at the round part where it
enters A, is the thickness of both A and B. There is a shoulder of the
thickness of B, and of the size of the body of the tool at the lower end,
being of the same diameter, so that the back surfaces of B and C are of
the same thickness. The front surface of C is flush with A.
To use the tool, put the square of the lock tumbler in the square hole
of C, and put the tumbler screw in place. Loosen the screw, _e_, and
turn the piece, C, until the nose of B will rest pretty firmly on the
gun-tube; then turn the screw to hold it in place. Loosen the screw, _c_,
that holds B in place, and move this piece up or down until the centre of
the nose rests squarely on the tube; then confine it in place by turning
up the screw, _c_. This is now an exact pattern, giving the length, shape
of the hammer, and also a guide to form the square where it fits the
tumbler.
It must be observed that the screws and the stud, _d_, ought to fill the
slots on the shoulder of the piece, C, a good fit, so that it will turn
evenly and properly in the hole of A. The screws may be the same that are
used for tumbler screws for army muskets. These screws are hardened, and,
as they have large flat heads, they answer for this purpose very well.
The part, C, can be made of two pieces of the same thickness as the other
parts. Finish them separately, except the square hole, and then solder
or rivet them together. The square hole is best finished up when the two
parts are fastened together.
CHAPTER XXIV.
ON NIPPLES OR CONES.
The terms nipple, cone and tube are applied in rather an indiscriminate
manner to that portion of a gun breech on which the copper cap containing
the fulminate designed for firing the arm is placed. To be good and
serviceable, the nipple should be made of steel, and carefully tempered;
but many are made of a low grade of steel, of common iron, and even
malleable iron has been used, and case-hardened to render them fit for
use.
[Illustration: FIGURE 50.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 51.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 52.]
_Forms of Nipples._—There are as many forms of nipples as there are
qualities, and they may be divided into classes, as the musket nipple
(called “cone” by the armory operatives), the American, English, and
German. The German have coarser threads than the American. The English
musket nipple has a thread or screw of 18 threads per inch; it has a flat
top, and has a hole of one taper, being large at the bottom and smaller
at the top. The American musket tube has a screw of 24 threads to the
inch, has a vent resembling two inverted cones, meeting with a small
opening near the centre. The top of the nipple, consequently, resembles a
narrow circular ring. Fig. 50 shows the English nipple, and Fig. 51 the
American; Fig. 52 the different forms of vents.
_Nipples for Breech-loading Arms._—For breech-loading arms, using loose
powder and ball, the nipple is made similar to the American, but the vent
is made quite large at the top, and decreases like an inverted cone, and
terminates in a small opening a little larger than a common pin. In this
nipple the fire from the cap is concentrated and caused to rush with some
force through the small aperture, the same as heat is concentrated in a
single point by using a blow-pipe for that purpose. The object is to burn
through the material of which the cartridge is composed.
_Nipples with Flat Tops._—The use of a nipple with a broad, flat top
requires a vigorous mainspring, and then quite a volume of the detonating
flame escapes outside the nipple and between it and the cap. The small
portion that passes down the tube may be so impeded, if the nipple be
foul or rusty, as to cause the gun to hang fire, and even to miss fire.
Should the mainspring be too weak, the cap will come in contact with the
broad surface of the nipple, forcing the priming of the cap from its
position, and leaving it unexploded. Often the cap is made to bear the
blame, when the fault is due entirely to the formation of the top of the
nipple.
_The American Musket Nipple._—The American musket nipple has a thin edge
and a wide opening at the top, so as to allow the flame to readily enter,
the thin edge enabling the cap to be very readily exploded, even with the
blow from a weak mainspring. In this form of nipple the detonating powder
is ignited at the edge, and being forced to enter the wide opening, is
compelled to pass down the vent to the powder. If there be any little
dirt or obstruction, it is generally forced along with the fire, and the
ignition of the powder is certain, and miss-fires are few.
When nipples are made with the small opening of the vent at the bottom,
coarse-grain gunpowder can be used, as it is not necessary that the
grains need to be admitted to the nipple. This is the case as regards
military arms fitted with nipples. The powder is too coarse to be
received in the nipple when freed from the cartridge and placed uncovered
in the gun breech.
It has been claimed by some that gunpowder can be glazed too smooth to
readily take fire, and this is a source of miss-fires. Also that the
flame from the detonating powder will form a mass of condensed air around
itself, preventing contact with the powder until the heat is expended.
This was especially thought to be the fact when there was a volume of
air between the powder and the end of the nipple. These two theories are
presented for what they may be worth.
_Nipples used in Sporting Guns._—Of nipples used in sporting guns there
may be found the broad top, the countersunk top, the taper bored, the
countersunk taper, the reverse taper, double reversed, etc., etc. They
are generally put up with the screw portion made in assorted sizes. The
threads also vary, being as coarse as 26 to the inch, and as fine as 32
threads per inch.
_Preparing Nipples for Guns._—It is well for the gunsmith to test the
nipples with a fine file to ascertain their hardness before inserting
them in guns. If too soft, they will be returned on his hands. If
there is also a liability of the gun-hammer battering the top where it
strikes, which soon is so broad as to cause miss-fires. If too hard,
they are liable to break short off at the square, and the screw portion
left in the gun is difficult to remove. Sometimes so much so that it is
necessary to unbreech the gun, remove the patent breech and heat it to
soften the portion of broken nipple so that it can be drilled out. In
drilling there is a risk of injury to the thread of the nipple seat. The
heating necessitates labor to refinish the part and it is to be again
case hardened before screwing into the barrel. If found too hard, nipples
can be drawn to a better temper by holding the top portion in a pair of
pliers in exposing the bottom part to the flame of an alcohol lamp. If
they be too soft, enclose in a short piece of gas pipe, pack them well
with bone-dust, stop close the ends of the pipe, and heat to a red,
letting them remain so for fifteen or twenty minutes and then open the
end of the pipe to let the contents fall into water. They can be drawn
to temper to suit. They may also be heated hot, rolled in prussiate of
potash or cyanide of potassium, again heated, and thrown into water. As
cyanide of potassium is a deadly poison, be very careful how it is used
and where it is kept. Do not breathe the flames when put on hot iron, and
do not let it come in contact with sores or raw places on the hands.
_Remedy for Bad Nipples._—In case guns come in to be repaired because
they will “not snap a cap,” see if a weak mainspring be not one cause,
and a nipple with broad top, another. For the latter evil, ream or
counter sink it so as to have a thin cup like edge. See also if the cup
of the hammer strikes properly on the nipple, and that it be not too much
cupped by long usage in striking. In this case, the cup may be filled
by drilling in and inserting a bit of iron or steel to fill it and then
re-harden.
_Pistol Nipples._—Pistol nipples, Colt’s for instance, have a different
thread from gun nipples. The thread used in Colt’s revolver nipples is 40
to the inch. But one size is employed—nipples are sometimes provided with
a thin, round washer of copper, which is put on at the shoulder where the
thread terminates. This shields that part of the seat where it is placed
from rust, and some claim that it acts as a sort of cushion to deaden the
blow of the hammer, thus preserving the nipple from breakage.
_Plugs for Nipples._—Plugs can be made from a rod of iron of suitable
size that is sound and free from flaws. The size of the part that screws
into the barrel is about three-eighths of an inch, and the thread is
twenty to the inch. This is the size and thread generally used. There may
be exceptions that will require a different size and a different thread,
but, if possible, let the sizes given govern the work. The end on which
the screw is to be cut can be turned in the lathe, cut down with a hollow
mill in the method given for making breech pins, or it can even be filed
to shape in absence of any other way to make it. Before cutting the plug
to the length where the nipple is to be seated, screw it into the barrel,
mark the place for the nipple which can be found by letting down the
hammer of the lock, then remove drill and fit the nipple. Cut off all
that is not required beyond the nipple and screw into place, the nipple
forming a shoulder on which to rest the wrench in screwing it home. The
finished plug is shown in Fig. 53.
[Illustration: FIGURE 53.]
It is best to remove the barrel from the stock in screwing in the plug.
With an improper wrench, it often happens that a nipple will be broken
off at the square if it be very hard, and then it is difficult to
remove. To obviate all danger of this, make a wrench with a handle at
each end, and in the middle have a hole that will fit the plug, and then
file an opening so that it will just fit over the nipple. It should
fit close to the nipple at the square, and be free so as not to have a
bearing at the end of the nipple where the cap is put on.
Plugs are sometimes left bright, but if blued it improves their
appearance and there is less tendency to rust. If desired to be very
durable, case-harden them. The better polish that can be made on them
will make a better blue or case-hardened surface.
Many of the cheap plugs in market are nothing but cast malleable iron.
The best material of which to make them is decarbonized steel, or what is
known as “soft steel.” It comes in smooth round rods and is homogeneous
and easy to work. Cold-rolled iron rod makes very good plugs. The
diameter may be half-inch or nine-sixteenths, the latter size being most
preferable. With a three-eighth size screw the half-inch rod gives a
one-sixteenth shoulder, which must fit tight to the barrel. If not fitted
tight, the gas from the powder when the gun is fired will soon cause a
leak which is difficult to remedy. In some localities the name plug is
discarded and the term “cylinder” adopted.
CHAPTER XXV.
MAINSPRINGS.
_Mainsprings._—Mainsprings are made for right and left side locks, and
are known as right and left. Very few gunsmiths make these springs, as
they are kept in stock and can be purchased of the dealers at any time.
Fig. 54 is called the forward or side-action hook spring; Fig. 55 the
forward or side-action swivel, and are used in bar locks.
Fig. 56 is the back-action mainspring, such as used in cheap made locks.
These springs are also made with sear spring combined. Fig. 57 is swivel
back-action with sear spring combined.
[Illustration: FIGURE 54.]
_Sear Springs._—Sear springs are made for right and left hand locks. The
side-action or bar-lock springs are shown in Fig. 58, and the back-action
lock springs in Fig. 59. In one kind of back-action lock there is used
a bent spring similar to the bar-lock spring which is shown in Fig. 60.
It will be observed that the lower branch of this spring is longer than
that which is used in the bar or side-action locks.
[Illustration: FIGURE 55.]
_How to Forge Mainsprings._—If the gunsmith desires to forge his own
mainsprings he must select a good quality of spring steel, as cast steel
is generally too quick or fiery for springs that have as severe a duty
to perform as a mainspring. Get the steel of the same thickness as the
mainspring and of a width equal to the spring and the pivot that goes
through the lock plate.
[Illustration: FIGURE 56.]
Draw the spring out carefully over a fire that has been burned enough to
free it from sulphur, if bituminous coal be used, and be very careful not
to over-heat the metal. Form to shape with any tools or means that may be
at hand.
For straight springs, as some kinds of pistol and gun-lock springs,
procure steel of the thickness and width of the spring at the widest and
thickest end, and draw down to the requisite width and thickness of the
smallest end.
[Illustration: FIGURE 57.]
_How to Temper Mainsprings._—If it be a single spring that is to be
tempered, heat it carefully or evenly in a fire that is well burned to
free it from sulphur, or preferably in a charcoal fire, and when at a
light-red heat, harden by plunging it in any animal oil. An iron pan may
be used to contain the oil, and any refuse or poor oil that may collect
may be used. Lard oil is good, but if oil be wanting, use common lard or
even tallow. If hard, melt before using.
[Illustration: FIGURE 58.]
To temper the spring, remove from the oil, and hold it all dripping with
the oil over a clear fire until the oil takes fire and blazes off. It is
best to dip it in the oil and blaze off the second time.
[Illustration: FIGURE 59.]
If there are a number of springs enclose them in a piece of gas pipe to
heat them, and when hot, turn them into the oil. To temper, remove them,
put them in an old wrought-iron frying pan, add a little oil, heat the
pan over the fire, shaking it in the meantime, until the oil takes fire
and blazes off. Let the work cool without putting it in water or oil.
[Illustration: FIGURE 60.]
_Cheap Mainsprings for Revolvers._—Make springs for cheap revolvers from
strips of sheet steel. Cut the springs so that the _length_ of the spring
will be _lengthwise_ of the sheet from which it is cut, or, in other
words, the _grain_ of the steel must _not_ be _across_ the spring, but
_lengthwise_ with it.
When fitted, harden in oil and blaze off in an old sheet-iron pan; an
old frying pan being very good for the purpose, and literally _fry_ them
in the oil. If heavy, blaze two or three times. Agitate well in the pan
during the blazing process.
An old saw blade, one that is quite thin, when cut up in strips will
make springs for cheap work. If too hard temper, it cannot very well
be used until the temper be drawn to suit. They can be bent into form
with a strong pair of pliers. By warming the strips over a fire they can
be readily bent into shape. Old table-knife blades, sometimes called
case-knife blades, that are well tempered, have been employed, the blades
being cut lengthwise with a pair of hand shears.
_Coiling Wire for Springs, &c._—There are several methods of coiling
wire for springs. The most simple is to clamp a rod in the vise and wind
the wire around it by hand, but this is a very unsatisfactory method and
it is rather difficult to wind the wire evenly. Another method is to
revolve a rod in the lathe and let the wire coil upon it as the lathe
is turned. To insure equal space between the coils, a piece of metal is
held “behind” the wire, and as this piece of metal bears against, or in
advance of the coil just made, it produces an even spring. A hook made of
a piece of wire or a piece of metal with one end formed into a hook and
clasping the rod on which the wire is moved is an excellent way to form
an even spring. Two, or even three or more pieces of wire may be wound at
one time, and this will insure springs of even space.
Another way in which a spring of even coil can be made, is to hold a
bolt that has a good thread, upright in the vise and confine the wire by
clamping it to the bolt, then wind the wire, letting it follow the thread
of the bolt. When enough is wound, remove and release the spring by
“screwing the bolt out of it,” the same as if holding a nut fast in the
hand and turning the bolt out of it. Springs of almost any coil, but not
of “almost any diameter,” can be made in this way.
[Illustration: FIGURE 61.]
In the absence of a lathe a wire winding tool may be made by bending a
rod into the form of a crank and insert the long end through a piece of
hard wood, as shown in Fig. 61. This can be held in the vise to use, or
fastened by two or three screws to the bench or any convenient place. A
slot is made in the end of the part that projects through the wood, and
in this slot the end of the wire is placed and is wound _toward_ the
crank. Of course the spring can be made no longer than this projecting
end. To make different sized springs different sized rods must be used,
and holes to fit must be made through the piece of wood.
To insure even space between the coils, a strip of thin steel may be
fastened by one or two screws at or near the bottom of the piece of wood,
and a hole is made near the top of the winding rod to pass through.
A space is cut out, as shown in the cut, to admit of the wire being
removed. In winding the upper end the steel strip is held away from the
wood by its spring, or by a wooden wedge, and the wire must be held close
to the wood by the hand or by a piece of wire formed as a sort of staple.
To wind a very long spring, or a spring longer than the rod, a clamp may
confine the wire to the rod, and when the spring has been wound to its
length, remove the clamp, draw back the winding rod, fix the clamp close
to the outer end and begin to wind again without cutting the coil, push
it off the end of the rod as it is filled each time. As all wire, like
hard drawn brass or steel wire, will “spring open” after being coiled,
the rod must be made much smaller than the spring to be formed. Different
sized holes may be made in the same block of wood to receive different
sized winding rods over.
Hooks or eyes on the ends of the rods can be readily made in like manner.
When the rod is too large to admit of ready bending to form the crank to
turn it with, a crank of cast-iron can be riveted upon it.
If the mechanic wishes to make a tool of this kind, that will be more
serviceable and at the same time “look like something,” he can procure
a casting similar to the movable head of a lathe, and put in the hole
where the spindle is placed a similar spindle, but with the end where
the wire is to be wound large enough to form a shoulder to keep it in
place, and on the other end put a wheel eight or ten inches in diameter,
with a handle to turn it with. The end where the shoulder is may be made
with a screw to fit the lathe chuck or with a hole to receive the lathe
tools, and they can be held there the same as holding them in the lathe
chuck. The spindles to wind the wire may be inserted in the hole and held
in place by the set-screw. The tool may be fastened to the bench by a rod
screwed into the base, or held by a nut under the bench.
This tool will be found to be a very ready one with which to work out
bullet moulds. The cherry being held the same as a rod. It can also be
used to free the muzzle or breech of barrels, using the wooden rods
covered with emery, as described in Chapter XVI. It is also useful for
reaming holes and can be used for drilling in case of an emergency. As a
tool for holding taps to tap the thread in holes it has no equal—the work
being held in the left hand and the wheel turned with the right hand.
CHAPTER XXVI.
ON RODS.
_How to Make Ramrods._—Ramrods are of two forms, the straight rod used
for rifles, and the tapered rod used for shot guns. The wood that is most
in use is hickory, which is split and then turned into shape. The other
woods used are ebony, redwood, snakewood, rosewood, etc. Rifle rods are
generally made of sizes from three-sixteenths inch to half-inch diameter.
Shot gun rods from one-half inch to three-quarters inch in diameter. The
measurement of the shot gun rods is at the largest diameter.
One way of making rods for rifles is very similar to that in which screws
are made. A hollow tool is used with cutting lips, three are enough, and
the rod is passed through this tool, the tool being turned very rapidly
during the cutting. The operation may be reversed and the wood being
rotated while the tool is held in the hand and is passed along as it cuts.
A better kind of tool is made like a wheel about two inches in diameter,
and three-quarters of an inch thick. A hole of the size of the rod is
made through the diametrical centre, and one side of the circumference
is cut away so that a tool partaking of the nature of the gouge and
finishing chisel is so held by a screw, that the gouge portion advances
and roughs out the rod, while the chisel shaped part following it shaves
the roughness and leaves the work smooth and nice. The hole through the
tool must be of the size the rod is to be made, and the cutting tool set
so as to allow the work to pass through the hole easily. Only one size
rod can be made with this tool, and different sizes must be made for
different sized rods; except the cutter which must be of steel, it can be
made of cast iron.
To make rods by hand, the wood is split out as straight as can be and
then rough shaved into form with a drawing knife. It is then planed
square with a carpenter’s plane and then the square corners are taken
off, leaving the rod of octagon form. A few strokes of the plane will
then remove these corners and it will be nearly round. A new file and
sand-paper will finish it true and even. After the rod has been planed
square, the best way to hold it for removing the corners and make it
octagon form is to have a V groove made in a piece of hard wood of
the length of the rod in which to lay it. Otherwise, it will be very
difficult to hold while using the plane.
Round straight rods can be finished with a tool like a moulding plane,
and if this tool be of the proper form, and the work be turned around
two or three times during the operation, a good rod can be made very
expeditiously.
When wood is cross-grained it cannot be planed very well and must be
finished with a file and rasp. To hold the rod while being worked, get
a piece of hard wood about three-quarters of an inch thick and about
four inches wide; in one edge have a groove made a quarter inch wide and
three-eighths deep. Rest the rod in this groove, holding it at one end
with a hand vise so as to turn it while filing, and reduce first with the
rasp and then finish with a file. To finish easily with sand-paper, wrap
the sand-paper around a piece of wood shaped like a file, and use as if
filing.
Pieces of broken window glass may also be used to advantage in reducing
rods, and then finish with fine sand-paper.
[Illustration: FIGURE 62.]
_How to make a Wiping Rod._—Take any straight rod, a ramrod for instance,
but be sure that the wood be strong and tough, and cut one end like the
form shown in Fig. 62. By folding a rag over the end, doubling it so as
to fill the bore of the gun, it will be found that it can be used in
muzzle-loading guns without pulling off when the rod is being withdrawn.
The rounded end prevents the end of the rod being pushed through the
cloth, and the deep notch receives the folded sides so that it presents
no inequalities to the bore of the gun. The square shoulder prevents its
being pulled from place on being withdrawn from the gun.
An iron rod may be made in the same way, but a rod made of good hickory
wood has no equal.
A wiping rod may be made of an iron rod having a slot or mortice cut
through one end, and through this a rag is drawn. It may be used in
breech-loading guns where it can be pushed in at one end and drawn out
at the other, but in a muzzle loading gun it cannot well be withdrawn on
account of the rag being folded upon itself in attempting to withdraw it.
If a wiping rag be put in a gun and cannot be withdrawn, it may be
sometimes relieved so as to be withdrawn by turning a little warm water
down the barrel so as to saturate and soften the rag.
Wiping brushes should not be thrust down the bore of a muzzle-loader
as they cannot be readily withdrawn, and in instances where they are
of larger diameter than the bore, the gun must be unbreeched to have
the brush taken out. These brush wipers are very nice for that class of
breech-loaders where they can be inserted at one end and withdrawn from
the other. In using them in this class of guns, insert at the breech and
remove from the muzzle, and then there will be no dirt or debris thrown
among the breech mechanism.
CHAPTER XXVII.
ON BULLET MOULDS.
_Joints for Bullet Moulds._—Simple as it may seem, the joint of bullet
moulds, unless produced by the manufacturer, who has ample tools at his
command, is not often well done. The want of the proper knowledge how “to
lay out” such a joint may be the excuse for ill-fitting work. Yet it is
easy enough, only “know how.”
[Illustration: FIGURE 63.]
By reference to the cut, Fig. 63, the joint and one side of the body of
a bullet mould, it will be observed that the line A is the surface where
the two halves abut or come together. The line B is drawn at right angles
to this and in the diametrical centre of the round projection that is to
form the joint. At the point of intersection of these two lines, or in
other words where these two lines cross each other, make an indent with
a sharp-pointed prick-punch, and there drill a hole of the size that the
rivet is to be made.
[Illustration: FIGURE 64.]
Fig. 64 shows the finished joint ready to receive its mate and be
rivetted together. After the hole for the rivet is made, a tool must be
used to “sweep” or cut down the surface at C, and also leave a sharp and
smooth shoulder as shown at D.
[Illustration: FIGURE 65.]
To make this tool, select a piece of steel, centre it in the lathe, and
turn one end—say an inch or so—of the same size that the joint is to be.
In this end drill a hole lengthwise, but exactly in the centre, of the
same size that the rivet is to be. Cut teeth on this end, and temper as
any tool for cutting metals. Insert a steel pin in the hole, leaving
it projecting half an inch or more, and the tool is ready for use. The
cutting end of the tool is shown in Fig. 65. Of course the other end must
be fitted to the lathe chuck or a bit-stock in order to use it. Insert
the projecting end of the pin in the hole A, drilled for the joint, and
by means of the lathe or bit-stock, cut down each half of the mould to
about half of its thickness. The outer circle or cut of the tool will be
a guide to which to file the circle of the joint. If the cutting end of
the tool be made a little convex it will form the surface of the joint a
little hollowing, and a better fit will be the result.
Countersink the outer ends of the hole, insert the rivet, and rivet them
together. The perfection of the joint can be ascertained by opening and
closing the mould a few times, removing the surface where the rubbing is
apparent, with a fine-cut file.
If the surfaces of the two halves at B, Fig. 64, do not exactly come
together, and the material be brass or malleable iron, a few blows with
a hammer will insure close contact. It may be necessary to say that the
surface at B must first be made true and square, so that the two halves
will fit closely, and then “lay out” the joint from this surface.
If there be many bullet moulds to make the circle of, the joints can be
made by means of a cutter revolving in the lathe. Make this cutter about
two and a half inches in diameter and half an inch thick. Cut teeth in
the sides as well as on the circumference. Fit it in a spindle so it will
revolve. After the joint is drilled fit it so as to turn on a pin fixed
in a piece of iron that is held at one side of the cutter. By feeding
the mould up to the cutter the surface or shoulder is cut where the two
portions of the joint come in contact when opened. By turning the mould
slowly around a portion of the circle is cut, say about one-half. Remove
the mould from the pin, invert it, and the remainder of the circle can be
cut; the whole “round” and the abutting surfaces being produced at two
cuts; a little smoothing up with a file being necessary to finish it.
This operation and the cutting is shown in Fig. 66.
[Illustration: FIGURE 66.]
_How to Make a Ball Cherry._—The term “cherry,” as applied to the tool
used to make the mould for spherical balls or bullets, was no doubt
borrowed from the fruit of the same name—in fact the fruit and tool are
very similar in form and size. To any one not conversant with the process
of producing a sphere in metal it seems a very difficult operation, but
nevertheless it is very simple, and only requires a little knowledge
and experience to make a cherry to fit any bore of gun. This is the
rule governing the operation: A rotating body is passed through a
properly-shaped circular aperture in a flat steel die that is held with
its upper or cutting in the same plane as the axial line of the body
rotating. That’s all.
[Illustration: FIGURE 67.]
Now, to make application of the rule. Suppose we have a rifle of a
certain bore to which is to be fitted a round ball. First, take a piece
of steel, we will say about one-quarter of an inch thick, about one inch
wide and about six or eight inches long. An old file of good quality,
with the temper drawn and the teeth ground away, may answer the purpose.
It should be annealed as soft as possible. With a drill make a hole near
one end, but a little less in size than the bullet to be produced. With a
taper half-round reamer cut out the hole until that side of it which is
to be the upper or cutting edge is exactly the size of the bullet desired.
The advantage of using this taper half-round reamer is the hole is made
perfectly round, and at the same time the taper of the reamer gives a
bevel to the hole that forms a good, strong and effective cutting edge.
With a file cut out a portion of the tool of a V shape, bevelling the
edges the same as the hole as shown in Fig. 67. This V may be either
cut on the end, a side of the tool, as shown, but in use it is preferred
to be cut on the side, as then, if necessary, the hand can find a hold
on that end to assist it in operating. When done, temper for use. For
the cherry, turn a piece of steel in the lathe to fit a chuck. Half-inch
octagon is perhaps the best size of steel from which to make cherries of
less diameter than half-inch, and the length about six inches. The end on
which the cherry is to be made is roughly fashioned into a ball, leaving
the end where the centre supports it to be removed by the lathe tool or
by filing.
[Illustration: FIGURE 68.]
When fitted so that the rough blank will be held firmly in the chuck, run
the lathe at moderate speed, set the T rest so that the steel die can
be held on it about level with the under side of the rotating blank. On
the rest lay the die, and press the opening so as to receive the rough
sphere, applying oil and not pressing too hard. Let it gradually scrape
its way through the circular aperture, the V-shaped opening in the side
receiving the stem to which the cherry is attached. In Fig. 68 is shown
the finished blank after being passed through the die. If it be preferred
the die may be held in the hands and not supported on the T rest.
Take care to supply plenty of oil to the work, as this will prevent
scratching or tearing the cherry while being formed. It is well to make
two of these holes, one at each end of the piece of steel, roughing the
blank with the first, which is a little larger than the one used to
finish the cherry of the exact size. When this tool gets dull grind on
the upper or cutting edge, but not too much, as it will enlarge the hole,
and the result will be to make a larger cherry.
To form these blanks into cutting tools, a copy can be taken from the
cherries as sold to the trade. Bear in mind to leave the grooves deep
enough to receive the metal cut from the blank mould when in operation.
[Illustration: FIGURE 69.]
It will be observed that the cherries as purchased (Fig. 69) do not have
their cutting edges terminate in that portion of the mould, but usually
on one side. This is done to insure a perfectly spherical form by having
a cutting side operating at the bottom of the hole while it is being
formed. It is somewhat difficult to make this form of cutting edge, and
some patience and care must be exercised or the blank may be spoiled.
Every mechanic knows how nice and rapidly a well-made drill will cut.
Suppose this form of cutting edge be applied to the bullet cherry. It is
no matter if this cherry be round or of conical form. Fill two cutting
edges like a drill on opposite sides of the blank from the shank to the
end of the cherry. It is evident that here the two rounded portions that
are left on each side of the cutting edges to be removed that the tool
is nothing more nor less than a peculiar shaped drill or reamer that
might form an internal sphere. But as this form could not well be applied
between the sides of blank bullet moulds, and as the full rounded sides
would not permit of these edges cutting, then form the rounded surfaces
into similar cutting edges like the two first made, only not so large,
making three or four on each side, according to the size of the cherry.
These cuts can very easily be made with a fine cut three-square or
half-round file. A cherry of this form for a round ball is shown in Fig.
70, and one for a conical ball in Fig. 71.
[Illustration: FIGURE 70.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 71.]
In using a three-square file, to get a fine-cutting edge that will make
a sharp V cut, grind away the teeth of one side. This will remove the
slightly rounded or blunt edge as usually made on this form of file. By
grinding thus, two acute cutting angles can be had from one file. If they
get a little dull on the sharp cutting corner, a little grinding will
restore the edge and make it sharp again.
_Tempering Bullet Cherries._—In tempering the cherry do not leave it too
hard, and be careful not to temper too hard above the spherical portion.
Leave the shank softer, as it will be less liable to break. It is not
necessary to shape the shank so as to exactly conform to the shape of the
V opening in the forming tool, for, as the edges of this opening have
been bevelled the same as the opening that shapes the cherry, they will
act as cutters, and will reduce the shank to conform to the V. It is
well to mark the cherries in some conspicuous place on the shank, with
their size in hundredths of an inch, the same as cartridges are numbered,
and also mark them with the number of round balls to the pound, as was
formerly in vogue among gunsmiths. The finished cherries, as purchased
from dealers, are so numbered.
Cherries, as purchased, have shanks fitted to be used with a bit-stock,
but if the gunsmith fits these tools to be used in a lathe chuck that has
a round hole, necessitating a round shank, and also wishes to use them in
a bit-stock, he can fill up the square hole in the bit-stock by brazing
therein a piece of iron, and then drilling a round hole to fit the tool.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
SCREW-MAKING TOOLS.
The tools used by the “old time” gunsmith for screw making were few and
simple, and are now seldom found except in the shop of some “old veteran”
of the trade. Twenty-five or thirty years ago modifications of these
tools were used in some of the armories where Government arms were made,
and even now the same principle of these tools is employed but changed in
form and adapted to machinery operated by steam or other power.
[Illustration: FIGURE 72.]
Fig. 72 shows a tool to be held in the vise by the projection, and the
rough form of the screw, or a piece of wire of suitable size is inserted
in the hole in the centre of the raised portion, cut with radial teeth,
and a screwdriver inserted in a transverse slot in the other end of the
rough screw, or bit of rod; it is then rotated by a bit stock until by
the pressure applied the teeth cut away the metal and so forms the body
of the screw. To form the head of the screw another tool, shown in Fig.
73 having a countersunk hole made in the centre of the diameter of the
head but a little deeper, is used. The unenlarged portion of the hole in
the tool corresponding to the body of the screw, which being inserted
in the hole is rotated by means of the screwdriver in the bit stock,
until the head is shaped in the same manner that the body was formed. Of
course, different tools had to be made for different sized screws.
[Illustration: FIGURE 73.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 74.]
In forming the tang screw, which has the head bevelled on the under side,
a tool was used like Fig. 74. The rod was turned into a tool in the same
manner as for making a flat headed screw; then the body was inserted in
the bevelled head-making tool and rotated as for making a flat head. The
edges of the bevelled teeth being so formed as to become cutters upon the
inner or central edges, and so reduce the screw head to that shape.
[Illustration: FIGURE 75.]
For countersinking, to let in the heads of these bevelled forms of
screws, a tool is used like the one as shown in Fig. 75—the stem
serving as a guide when inserted in the work, and a slot to admit the
screw-driver, for turning them, being made in the large end. This tool
is made about two inches in length, the head being about half an inch in
diameter.
The length of the tools in Figs. 72, 73 and 74, where they are held in
the vise, is about an inch and a half or an inch and three-quarters; the
width from half an inch to five-eighths, according to size; the thickness
one-quarter inch. The round part with the cutting teeth is about
three-quarters of an inch in height from the flat portion, and is about
the same diameter. The teeth may be in number five, six or eight, as most
convenient to make. The tools for bevelled heads are best made with five
teeth.
_Making Small Taps._—The best manner of making large taps is to turn
them to size in a lathe, and then cut the screw by the same means of with
a die plate. Small taps cannot very well be so made. A very good way is
to get good steel wire—generally sold of all sizes, under the name of
Stubs’ steel wire—and from this make taps; the thread can be cut by means
of a die stock.
When the thread is properly made, there are several ways to form it so
as to make it a cutting tool. One method is to file it with four sides,
making it a square. In this case it scarcely cuts, but rather “jams” up
a thread. Another one is to file it triangular or “three square.” This
form makes it rather a better form, as regards cutting quality; but as in
case of the square form, it will be observed that the inclination of the
sides is such that they would not be selected for a cutting tool if such
an angle were made as a tool for that purpose. If two flutes or grooves
be made of angular form, with a square file, or two hollows be cut with
a round file, these flutes running lengthwise with the tool, the edges
then present more of the aspect of a cutting tool; but the distance is
so great between the flutes that there is great friction, and breakage
will result if the hole to be tapped be too small, or too much force
be applied. If three or four flutes be made the evil of friction will
then be remedied. Be sure to cut the flutes deep enough to receive all
cuttings that may be removed or the tap will become clogged, and can with
difficulty be turned out, or perhaps may be broken.
A cheap and good way to finish a tap is, after the thread is made, to
file away one-half of its diameter nearly the length of the thread. This
will give great clearance and space for the cuttings, and at the same
time the cutting edge is very sharp and is strong. It will be found to
cut very easily. If a tap of this make becomes dull it can be sharpened
by grinding on the flat formed by filing it away. If the tap be too large
it can be made smaller by thus grinding.
Large taps work equally well made in this way, but care must be taken in
starting them in a hole or the thread may be made crooked.
Reamers, both large and small, straight or taper, can be made in this
manner, and are effective as well as cheap to make, and can be kept sharp
by grinding them on the flat side.
CHAPTER XXIX.
NOMENCLATURE.
[Illustration: FIGURE 76.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 77.]
_Nomenclature of the Gun Stock._—Fig. 76 shows a gun stock with the
locks, plates and other metal portions removed, _a_, is the butt; _b_,
the small or handle; _c_, the head; _d_, the bump; _e_, the comb; _f_,
the toe; _g_, lock-bed; _h_, fore-end or fore-arm; _i_, pistol-grip; _k_,
cap or end of pistol-grip; _l_, tip of fore-end; _m_, escutcheons; _n_,
mortice for bolt; _o_, chequering.
[Illustration: FIGURE 78.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 79.]
_Nomenclature of the Gun Lock._—The number of pieces in a common gun
lock, as shown, are thirteen, and are fully illustrated in the cut, Fig.
77. _A_, is the lock-plate; _B_, the hammer; _C_, mainspring; _D_, the
bridle; _E_, the tumbler; _F_, the sear; _G_, the sear-spring; _H_, the
swivel or stirrup; _I_, the sear-spring screw; _K_, _K_, _K_, the bridle
screws; _L_, hole for side-screw. In some locks there are only two bridle
screws. In others a screw holds the mainspring to place instead of a lip
catching under the stud.
[Illustration: FIGURE 80.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 81.]
_Nomenclature of the Hammer._—The names of different parts of the hammer,
Fig. 78, are: _a_, the body; _b_, the head; _c_, the comb; _d_, the nose;
_e_, the cup; _f_, tumbler-hole.
[Illustration: FIGURE 82.]
_Nomenclature of the Lock-Plate._—The names of different portions of the
lock-plate, Fig. 79, are: _a_, the bolster; _b_, mainspring-catch; _c_,
hole for mainspring-pivot; _d_, hole for side-screw; _e_, hole for arbor
of tumbler; _f_, hole for sear-screw; _g_, hole for sear spring-screw;
_h_, slot for sear-spring stud; _i_, _i_, holes for bridle screws.
[Illustration: FIGURE 83.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 84.]
_Nomenclature of the Tumbler._—The names of the tumbler, Fig. 80, are:
_a_, the body; _b_, arbor; _c_, squares; _d_, pivot; _e_, swivel arm;
_f_, pin-hole, and _g_, the tumbler-screw hole.
_Nomenclature of the Bridle._—The bridle, Fig. 81, consists of: _a_, the
body; _b_, the eye for tumbler-pivot; _c_, hole for sear-screw; _d_, _d_,
holes for bridle screws. Some tumblers have a pin that goes in a hole in
the lock-plate, and this pin is called a pivot.
[Illustration: FIGURE 85.]
_Nomenclature of the Mainspring._—The mainspring, Fig. 82, consists of:
_a_, the upper branch; _b_, the lower branch; _c_, the hook; _d_, the
pivot; _e_, the catch which is sometimes called the tang.
[Illustration: FIGURE 86.]
_Nomenclature of the Sear._—The sear, Fig. 83, consists of: _a_, the
body; _b_, the nose; _c_, the arm; _d_, screw-hole.
_Nomenclature of the Sear-Spring._—The sear-spring, Fig. 84, consists of:
_a_, the blade; _b_, upper branch; _c_, lower branch; _d_, the stud; _e_,
screw-hole.
_Nomenclature of the Swivel._—The mainspring-swivel or stirrup, Fig. 85,
consists of: _a_, the body; _b_, the axis; and _c_, the tumbler-pin hole.
_Nomenclature of the Breech-Pin._—Fig. 86 shows full size of
musket-barrel breech-pin. _a_, plug with threads; _b_, tenon; _c_, tang;
_d_, tang-screw hole; _e_, face.
In sporting guns the tang is often called the “strap,” and is
distinguished as long and short. The length varying from two and a half
inches as shortest, and five inches as the longest. Sometimes the term
“tail” is employed instead of tang or strap. The diameter of the plug
is generally one-half, five-eighths, and three-quarters of an inch.
The diameter of the pin used in United States muskets and rifles is
three-quarters of an inch.
_Nomenclature of Screws._—In all the screws, the parts are the stem, the
head, the slot and the thread.
CHAPTER XXX.
ON BROWNING.
_Object of Browning._—Browning is done for the purpose of subduing the
bright color of the barrel from the sight of game; to bring out the
fibres of the metal to show their form and beauty, and also to show
whether the metal be free from flaws. It does not prevent barrels from
rusting, but rust will not attack so readily as if left in a bright
condition. The browning is very certain to make all defects appear,
except those designedly hidden, and not only defects of materials but
the filing and finishing of the barrel, if not well done, will appear in
marks in certain lights. A thoroughly well-filed barrel presents, what
may be called, a deep liquid appearance.
_Preparatory Process._—The process of browning is simple and cheap, and
at the same time serves to protect a gun, in some measure, from rust, and
also adds to its appearance. The operation consists in producing a very
thin uniform film of rust, or oxide, upon the iron and giving a gloss to
its surface by rubbing wax over it, or by coating it with some kind of
varnish, as shellac varnish.
Preparatory to browning, the barrel having been filed and polished
bright, is rubbed with lime to remove all grease. Some gun makers use wet
lime or lime water and then rub in dry powdered lime. The vent holes are
to be stopped with wax or wooden plugs, and both breech and muzzle are
to be plugged with wooden rods which serve as handles to hold the barrel
during the operation. The object of plugging is to prevent the mixture
from finding its way into the interior of the barrel and the breech and
muzzle plugs also serving as handles, prevent the hands from coming in
contact with the barrel, which would prevent the stain from “taking,”
and consequently cause a spot of different color from that on other
portions of the work. The solution is generally applied with a sponge or
cloth, sponge being preferable, until the surface is equally moistened,
and after standing in a warm place, generally about twenty-four hours,
it is rubbed off with a stiff brush or a wire card. The state of the
atmosphere will have much to do with the action of the browning mixture.
It can be easily ascertained when the barrels are dry enough to work,
as by applying the card, if dry, the rust will fly off quickly, but if
not dry, the rust will adhere firmly and the surface of the barrel will
look streaky. Some mixtures will dry in twelve hours or even less, but
twenty-four hours will insure their being perfectly dry. The process of
wetting and brushing, or “carding,” is repeated until the barrel has
acquired the desired color. When this stage is reached the barrel is
freely washed with hot water, in which a little potash may be mixed. Then
wash with clean water and dry thoroughly. A little lime water may be
used as a wash to destroy any free acid that may remain in the pores of
the metal.
_The Processes of Browning._—A browning or rust may be obtained very
speedily and well by enclosing the barrels in a chamber and subjecting
them to the vapor of muriatic acid. The same end may be obtained by
moistening the surface with dilute muriatic or nitric acid. There
is another material sometimes used, which is butter or chloride of
antimony. It is sometimes called “bronzing or browning salt.” In using
this substance, a uniform mixture is made with it and olive oil; this is
rubbed upon the barrel, which is slightly heated, and is then exposed
to the air until the required degree of browning is arrived at. The
operation of the antimony is quickened by rubbing on after it, a little
aquafortis.
_Browning Damascus Barrels._—Damascus barrels are browned by first
burnishing the barrels very nicely, then cover with bone oil; pound,
or drop, or strew wood ashes all over, then heat in a wire cage filled
with charcoal, until the first dark blue is obtained. After the barrels
are cold, mix a small quantity of sulphuric acid in water, and with a
hard brush apply to the barrel. The acid will remove the color from the
steel portion of the barrel, leaving the iron, on account of its greater
adhesion, still retaining its blue color. Take care to keep a good color
and not extract too much.
_Browning Belgian Damascus Barrels._—The characteristic, bright, wavy
appearance of Belgian Damascus barrels is generally “eat up,” and the
process is termed “pickling.” The process results in eating away
the softer metals from the harder, used in forming the barrel. The
preparation used is one pound of blue vitriol dissolved in a gallon of
soft water, at the boiling point, and the boiling continued until the
quantity is reduced about one-fourth; then let it cool, and pour out
into a lead trough. Plug the barrels securely at both breech and muzzle,
so that the liquid cannot get into the interior. When the barrels are
immersed in the solution, it will act upon the metal in fifteen to twenty
minutes. Remove and wash with water, and if not satisfactory, immerse
again, until the operation is complete. Pour boiling water over them,
and scratch well with a steel brush or card, which will eventually give
the beautiful, bright, wavy appearance. Laminated steel barrels may be
subjected to this same operation.
_Browning Inferior Barrels._—Inferior quality of Birmingham barrels are
browned as follows: Dissolve as much muriate of mercury as can be taken
up in a glassfull of alcohol. Mix this solution in one pint or more of
water. A small quantity of this mixture is poured on a little whitening
and laid on the barrel with a sponge, rather lightly. As soon as dry,
brush off and lay on a fresh coating. So proceed until the barrel is dark
enough, which is generally about two or three days. The effect is to make
the softer portions of the metal a beautiful brown, while the harder
portions remain quite light. The rusting process is killed by washing in
hot water, after which the barrels are suddenly immersed in cold water.
This has the effect of heightening the brightness of both colors.
_Plain Welded Barrels made to Resemble Twist._—Plain welded barrels are
made to resemble twist barrels by wetting a thread or fine cord with
dilute acid, and winding it around the barrel so as to make spiral lines,
running all along its surface. Wherever the thread touches a slight
coating of rust will be formed. The barrel may be treated in this way
two or three times, and the spiral windings of the thread will exhibit
fine dark lines closely resembling twist barrels. To wind the thread the
barrel may be put between the centres of a lathe, and so turned while it
winds the thread upon it, being guided by the hand, or the barrel may be
supported between centres or put on a rod of wood, which may be turned by
a crank or handle.
Barrels may be colored by exposing them to a degree of heat sufficient
to produce a blue tinge, and is done to color pistol barrels, but when
double gun barrels are soft-soldered together this cannot be done on
account of danger of melting the solder. The inner surface of the barrel,
which is also so colored, must be polished after the operation.
_Smoke Staining._—This method of coloring barrels is as follows: The
barrels are washed with a little sulphuric acid, to cause the metal to
receive the effects of the gas more readily; it is then washed off, and
the barrels rubbed dry. A fire is built with coal possessing as much
hydrogen gas and as little sulphur as possible. Burn the coals until
they give a clear, white flame, with no black smoke. Pass the barrels
through that flame, backward and forward, until the whole are covered
with a black, sooty coating. Place them in a damp, cool cellar and let
them stand about twenty-four hours, and if the place be sufficiently
damp, the iron parts will be covered with a red rust, while the steel
portions still retain the sooty coat. Scratch them off with a wire card
and rub with a piece of cloth, and wash or polish with water, using on
the cloth a little flour of emery. The steel will be found to be of the
original bright color, while the iron will be a little darker. Rub dry,
and pass the barrels through the flame again. Allow them to stand about
twelve hours to rust, and then polish as before. With every smoking the
colors will be a little darker. The darkest color to be obtained is a
fine purple-black color on the iron; the steel inclining to a copper
color.
The principle of this stain is simply the hydrogen gas contained in
the coal acting on the iron, iron being of a softer nature than the
steel, which it does not affect, the flame also possessing a quantity of
tar, it is imperceptibly embodied by the iron during the action of the
oxide, and, when finished, by filling up the spaces created, it becomes
decidedly more impervious to damp or wet than any other stain or browning
which is composed entirely of oxide of iron.
CHAPTER XXXI.
RECIPES FOR BROWNING GUN BARRELS.
_Solution for Browning Gun Barrels._—Make a solution by putting together
in a glass vessel, spirits of nitre, three-quarter ounce; tincture of
steel, three-quarter ounce; black brimstone, one-quarter ounce; blue
vitriol, one-half ounce; corrosive sublimate, one-quarter ounce; nitric
acid, one drachm, and copperas, one-quarter ounce. Mix with one and
one-half pints of rain water, and bottle for use. Clean the barrel till
entirely bright, rubbing it over with finest emery paper, then apply the
solution with a clean white cloth. Set away for twenty-four hours. At the
end of this time a rust will have formed over the barrel. Go over it with
a steel scratch-brush, then rub off all the rust with a woolen cloth. If
you find the brown not dark enough, cover again with the solution and
set away twenty-four hours longer. Remove the rust exactly as in the
first instance, then, the color suiting, wash off with a wet cloth, rub
to thorough dryness, and finish by rubbing with linseed oil, to prevent
further rusting.
This application browns the barrel beautifully, and in case of twist
leaves the markings prominently plain.
The tincture of steel is sometimes not to be obtained at a small drug
store, in which case the unmedicated tincture of iron may be made to
answer reasonably well.
2. Sulphate of copper, one ounce; sweet spirits of nitre, one ounce;
water, one pint. Mix. In a few days it will be ready for use.
3. Tincture muriate of iron, one ounce; nitric ether, one ounce; sulphate
of copper, four scruples; rain water, one pint; if the process is to be
hurried, add two or three grains of oxymuriate of mercury. Put in lime
water to neutralize acid.
4. Spirits of nitre, one pound; alcohol, one pound; corrosive sublimate,
one ounce. Mix and cork for use.
5. Tincture of muriate of iron, one ounce; nitric ether, one ounce;
sulphate of copper, four scruples; rain water, one pint.
6. Alcohol, one and a half ounce; tincture of steel, one and a half
ounce; corrosive sublimate, one and a half ounce; sweet spirits of
nitre, one and a half ounce; blue vitriol, one ounce; nitric acid,
three-quarters of an ounce. Mix and dissolve in one quart of warm water.
Keep in glass bottles.
7. Nitric ether, six ounces; alcohol, one ounce; sulphate of copper (blue
vitriol), one and a half ounce; muriated tincture of iron, one and a
half ounce; tincture of gum benzoin, one and a half ounce. Dissolve the
sulphate of copper in water, add the other ingredients, previously mixed,
and then add three pints of boiling water.
8. Spirits of nitre, one pound; alcohol, one pound; corrosive sublimate,
one ounce. Mix in a bottle and keep corked for use.
9. Soft water, one quart; dissolve in it blue vitriol, two ounces;
corrosive sublimate, one ounce; and one ounce of spirits of nitre. Put on
one coating, and in about an hour a second one, then let the work stand
twelve hours. Oil and rub with cloth.
10. One ounce nitric acid; one ounce blue vitriol; dissolve in four
ounces rain water, and mix all together in a pint of water. Warm the
mixture slightly and apply gently with a sponge.
11. Nitric acid, one-half ounce; sweet spirits of nitre, one-half ounce;
alcohol, one ounce; blue vitriol, two ounces; tincture of iron, one
ounce; soft water, one quart.
12. Sweet spirits of nitre, one and a half ounce; nitric acid, one ounce;
tincture of steel, two ounces; alcohol, one and a half ounce; blue
vitriol, one-half ounce. Dissolve the blue vitriol in cold rain water,
and add the other ingredients to make one quart.
13. Apply the following fluid by means of a clean white cloth: Spirits of
nitre, one pound; alcohol, one pound; corrosive sublimate, one ounce. Mix
in a bottle and keep corked for use. Apply one coat and set in a warm,
dark place, until a red rust is formed over the whole surface, which will
require, in warm weather, from ten to twelve hours; in cold, from fifteen
to twenty hours. Then card it down with a gun-maker’s card, and rub off
with a clean cloth. Repeat the process until the color suits, as each
coat gives a darker shade.
_Browning Recipes for Twist and Laminated Barrels._—1. Sweet spirits of
nitre, one-half ounce; tincture of steel, one-quarter ounce; corrosive
sublimate, one-half ounce; aqua fortis, sixty drops; nitrate of silver,
four grains; a small lump of chalk and one pint of rain water.
2. Tincture of sesqui-chloride of iron, one-half ounce; corrosive
sublimate, one drachm; sulphate of copper, one-half drachm; nitric acid,
one drachm to one and a half drachms; alcohol, six drachms; water, eight
ounces. Dissolve the corrosive sublimate in the alcohol, then add the
solution to the other ingredients and let the whole stand for a month or
six weeks, when it will be ready for use.
3. Sweet spirits of nitre, one ounce; tincture of steel, one-half ounce;
blue vitriol, one-quarter ounce; nitric acid, six drops; corrosive
sublimate, fourteen grains; water, one pint. When the barrels are dark
enough, drop a few drops of muriatic acid in water and wash the barrel
slightly to brighten the twists.
4. Muriatic tincture of steel, one ounce; alcohol, one ounce; muriate
of mercury, one-quarter ounce; strong nitric acid, one-quarter ounce;
blue vitriol, one-eighth ounce; water, one quart. Thoroughly mix the
ingredients. Let them stand about thirty days before using. Wet the
barrels with the mixture, applied with a sponge, about once every two
hours. Scratch off with wire card every morning until the barrels are
dark enough.
_To Blue Gun Barrels._—A very pretty bluish color may be imparted to gun
barrels by dressing them off to brightness with fine emery paper, and
then rubbing them over quickly with nitric acid. When the desired color
has appeared, wash them off with clean water, rub dry with a soft cloth,
and then rub with linseed oil to prevent any further action of the acid.
_Brown Tint for Iron or Steel._—Dissolve, in four parts water, two parts
of crystalized chloride of iron; two parts of chloride of antimony; and
one part of gallic acid, and apply the solution with a sponge or cloth to
the barrel, letting it dry in a warm place. Repeat the process according
to the depth of color desired. Wash with warm water, and dry; then rub
over with boiled linseed oil. The metal receives a brown tint and resists
moisture. The chloride of antimony should be as little acid as possible.
_Transparent Blue for Iron or Steel._—Put together Demar varnish, one
quart; fine ground Prussian blue, one-quarter ounce. Polish the metal
to brightness, and put on thinly with a varnish brush. A beautiful
transparent blue color, but one that will not stand rough usage.
_Varnish for Browned Barrels._—1. Dissolve ten parts clear grains of
mastic, five parts camphor, fifteen grains sandarac, and five parts
elemi, in a sufficient quantity of alcohol, and apply the varnish without
heat. The articles treated with this varnish will not only be preserved
from rust, but their metallic lustre will not be in the least dimmed by
exposure to dampness.
2. Another varnish may be made by using gum shellac, one ounce; gum
sandarac, one ounce; Venice turpentine, one drachm; and ninety-eight per
cent. alcohol, one gallon.
3. Another formula consists of shellac, one ounce; dragon’s blood,
one-quarter of an ounce; alcohol, one quart. A little less dragon’s blood
may be used if the color be too great.
_Finish for Browned Barrels._—There are many ways of finishing barrels
after browning. Some gunsmiths warm the barrels and rub them while
quite warm with a flannel cloth and finish with a little bees-wax and
turpentine. Some polish with a steel burnisher or rub with white wax;
others use a wash of thin shellac varnish laid on carefully and evenly
with a camel’s hair brush. Some finish off with a solution of two ounces
of shellac and three drachms of dragon’s blood dissolved in two quarts of
good alcohol.
_To Remove Old Browning._—To remove old brown browning, plug the vent and
muzzle of the barrels; immerse the browned parts, for about one hour, in
hot lime water, or strong lye, to remove the varnish or grease; wipe them
and put them in vinegar, in a wooden trough, for an hour or less, when
the browning may be wiped off with a rag.
CHAPTER XXXII.
MISCELLANEOUS.
_Shellac and its Uses._—Gum shellac is the gunsmith’s friend. It is
the best material from which to make the varnish he uses, and in
wood-working, if there be cracks or checks in the material, or in
stocking should a little slip of the tool occur while letting in locks or
other parts, a little of the gum judiciously applied remedies the defect,
and, like charity, “covers a multitude of little sins.”
Shellac is often adulterated with resins, and it requires some knowledge
of the article to detect this adulteration. It can only be ascertained by
experience in handling, or by ocular demonstration with an expert.
_To make Shellac Varnish._—To make varnish, put the shellac in a clean
vessel and put over it a quantity of good alcohol, enough to about cover
it, if it lie somewhat compact in the receptacle; if too thick when made
it can be thinned with alcohol. While the gum is dissolving keep it
covered from dust and let it stand in a warm place, as in the sun during
the summer, or near a warm stove in the winter. Too much warmth will tend
to evaporate the alcohol; and for this reason it ought to be somewhat
sealed from the air. It may take two or three days to thoroughly
dissolve the gum for varnish, according to the temperature in which it is
placed, etc.
When the gum is dissolved, thin with alcohol to the proper consistency
for easy application with the brush. If it be dirty, or it be desired to
have it clear and nice, filter it through good blotting paper. When not
using the varnish, keep close covered to prevent evaporation.
_How to conceal Bad Places in Wood-work._—If there be cracks in a stock
or a bad cut made in stocking, as will sometimes happen where locks and
straps are let in, apply a piece of the gum to the place and with a warm
iron melt it into the place, so that it will be well filled; also warm
the wood in close proximity to be sure of good adhesion. Let it remain
until cold and solid, and then finish down the same as the stock is
finished down.
_Another Method._—Another method of filling bad places in wood-work is to
get fine dust, as made with a fine rasp or file, and mix this dust with
thin glue, and rub it into the interstices, letting it remain until hard
and solid, and then finish same as the adjoining wood. Neither this nor
shellac will adhere where there is oil, or where the surface to adhere
has been oiled.
_Emery Cloth and Emery Paper._—Emery paper is the cheaper, but is not
so durable as the cloth. The paper is soon worn out and is torn in
using, but the cloth is seldom destroyed, and can be used so long as any
abrasive material remains upon it.
There are about six grades, say Nos. 00, 0, 1, 1½, 2 and 3, which may be
selected. To use on plain surfaces cut the sheet up in small, convenient
pieces, fold a piece around a file and use as if using the file. In
using a finer number, be careful to remove all the marks left by using
the previous number. If moistened with oil, a fine, soft-appearing, dead
finish is obtained. To use in a lathe, run the work with fast speed and
hold the cloth to place with the hand, or put it around a file and so
hold it. After the pieces are somewhat worn, they can be used to finish
with.
In selecting by the numbers remember that 00 is the finest, and is called
flour of emery cloth, or paper; 0 is a little coarser, and then follow
the different grades in numerical order.
_Uses of the Alcoholic Lamp. How to make Small Springs._—An alcohol
lamp is almost indispensable to the jobbing gunsmith. Suppose a small
bent spring is to be made, a little trigger spring, for instance, such
as is used in many kinds of revolvers, it can be easily formed in this
manner: Take a bit of old watch-spring, heat it in the lamp until it
is blue, then, with the snips or hand-shears, divide it lengthwise to
the necessary width; heat in the flame of the lamp, and, with a pair of
pliers, bend to the required shape. It is not always necessary to temper
these springs, but if it be necessary to do so, heat until red in lamp,
using a blow-pipe if the heat be insufficient, harden in oil, and then
draw the temper to suit. The whole operation can be done without moving
from the bench, and much quicker, and certainly better, than could be
done at the forge.
_How to make Small Drills._—Then, again, to make small drills of steel
wire, use the lamp for heating and tempering. If a small drill be broken,
draw the temper in the lamp preparatory to forming it anew. Drills of
larger size may be hardened in the forge fire, brightened by grinding or
rubbing on a piece of fine emery cloth, and the temper readily drawn in
the lamp. The same process may be applied to tempering small screw taps.
Small screws can be readily blued in the same manner.
_Advantages of the Alcohol Lamp._—The lamp has this advantage over the
forge-fire; it draws the temper very evenly, and the temper color can
be readily seen, as the flame of alcohol makes no smoke to obscure it.
Even for small tempering, when once employed, no gunsmith will think of
discontinuing its use.
_The Soldering Copper._—The soldering copper for the use of the gunsmith
should be about one and a half pounds in weight. The length of the copper
should be about four or five inches, of octagon form, with a square
pyramidal shaped point. It is fixed to an iron rod about eight inches
long, on the end of which is a wooden handle.
_How to Heat the Copper._—When heating the copper for use, the best
way to ascertain the proper heat is to hold it near the face, and if a
bright warm glow is felt, it is hot enough for use. If heated too hot
the tinning will be burned off, and it will not work satisfactorily. To
replace the tinning, heat it warm enough to just melt the solder, and
file the surface to be tinned bright and smooth, then place a little
solder and a bit of resin on a piece of sheet-tin, and in this rub the
heated copper until the brightened surface has received a coating of the
solder, the resin acting as a flux during the operation.
_How to Tin the Copper._—Another method to tin a copper is to put the
solder and the resin on a brick, heat the copper and rub until it
receives the tin coating. The common soldering acid may be used instead
of the resin for a flux. During the operation the point of the copper may
be dipped in the acid to facilitate the tinning. It will be found that
a too free use of the acid, if used as a flux, for general work, will
soon destroy the point of the copper. When this is the case file off the
roughness and heat the copper quite warm, and draw it out to shape on
the anvil, the same as if working a piece of iron. When so shaped, file
smooth and re-tin as directed.
_To Prevent Gun Barrels from Glimmering._—It sometimes happens that
gun-barrels are disposed to throw off a kind of glimmer without any
apparent cause, thus seriously interfering with the hunter or sportsman
in getting a correct sight. Of course, the gunsmith would remedy the
evil by browning the barrel, but the sportsman in the woods could not do
this. Had his friend, the gunsmith, known that such a thing was going
to happen he would have told him to get a green hazel-nut pod, crush
it, and rub the juice over the barrel, which would produce a beautiful
non-glimmering brown. If a green hazel-nut pod could not be had, a green
wild plum or a green wild crab-apple or a bunch of green wild grapes
would answer the same purpose reasonably well. In the absence of these
an unripe black-walnut crushed and rubbed over the barrel would stop the
glimmering; and early in spring, when no kind of fruits had yet appeared,
a young sprout of wild grape-vine crushed and rubbed over the barrel
would make a very good substitute. These were the means resorted to by
the “hunters of Kentucky” in the long-gone days of backwoods life, when
“Old Kentuck” was young.
_Repairing Shot-Chargers._—Very often the stud that holds the lever of
a shot-charger will become loose or be forced from its position. The
best method to repair it is to remove the lever with its spring and the
cutters, put the stud back in place, wet the joint on the inside the
charger with soldering acid, and, holding it with the stud downwards, put
a bit of soft solder upon the joint, and hold it over an alcohol lamp
until the solder melts. If well done it will “stay put.”
Sometimes the lever spring will not remain in place, but will slip out.
To remedy the evil, take a common Berdan cartridge primer, or any other
kind will do, only take one that has been used or has had the priming
removed, put inside it a drop of soldering acid and a bit of solder,
enough to fill it when melted. Hold it over the lamp until the solder
fuses. When it has cooled, wet the charger with a touch of the acid just
where the bend of the spring comes, and there place the primer with the
solder next the wet place. Hold it in position with a bent piece of wire
or a strip of steel bent like a loop. Hold over the lamp, with the primer
downward, until the solder is melted. Replace the spring, and it will be
found that it will remain firmly in its place.
_Broken Plunger Nipples._—When plunger nipples are broken or are lost
from the gun, and none are at hand to repair the damage, a substitute
may be found in a common gun-nipple by filing away a portion of the cone
where the cap is placed. It is worth while to save broken nipples, as
they are taken from guns with this end in view for their use. They can
be annealed or the temper drawn, and they can be kept ready for drilling
for the strikers and cutting over to fit the gun in which they are to be
inserted. The nipple used in military arms makes a good substitute for a
broken plunger nipple, as the thread is nearly the same as that of some
plunger nipples.
_How to Remove Rusted Screws, Broken Nipples, etc._—Sometimes it so
happens that a screw is so rusted in a lock or other part of a gun, or a
rusted nipple refuses to start from its seat, and by repeated trials the
sides of the screw-head adjoining the slot are worn away or the squares
of the nipple are forced off, and the removal of either screw or nipple
an almost impossibility with the hand screw-driver or nipple wrench. In
such cases have a screw-driver or the nipple wrench fitted to the lathe
chuck, and, holding the screw or nipple in place to be thus turned out,
move the dead spindle of the lathe so that the work be firmly held in
place, with no chance to “give back,” then turn the lathe by moving the
fly-wheel with the hand, or hold the wheel fast and turn the work, and,
as there is no chance for the tool to slip from its place, the screw and
nipple is almost sure to be started. If so, it may be readily turned from
its place by hand.
_Converting Muskets to Sporting Guns._—Very often old muskets are brought
to the gunsmith to have the rifling bored out and changed so as to
present more of the appearance of a sporting gun. If properly worked over
they make a gun not very bad-looking, but very serviceable, as they will
stand a great amount of abuse and will bear large charges. For shooting
hawks and keeping corn-fields clear of depredators they are “just the
thing.”
After the rifling is removed, cut off the barrel to 30 or 32 inches in
length. Take off the bands and throw them away. Cut off the stock where
the top of the lower band comes, solder a rib on under side of the barrel
and attach two thimbles to receive a wooden ramrod. Bore out the stock
to receive the wooden rod, using the thimbles on the rib as guides in so
doing. Fit the rod as in sporting guns. Cast a tip on fore end of stock
where the lower band was, using the lower shoulder where the band rested
for the shoulder of the tip. Remove the elevating sight by heating, if it
be soldered on, and fix muzzle sight by soldering on a bit of brass, or
by drilling a hole and putting in a pin and filing to shape.
In boring for the rod the bit may strike the forward lock-screw, and when
this be the case float the stock so that the rod will go above the screw.
Don’t attempt to change the shape of the stock by removing any portion of
it, otherwise than stated, for by so doing the shape and symmetry will be
lost, and it will show to be a botch job.
To hold the barrel in place a loop for either wire or bolt must be
attached to the barrel a little distance back from the fore end, and a
wire or bolt put through the stock the same as other guns are made. In
place of the wire or bolt a very good plan is to put a short stud on the
barrel, and from the under side of the fore end put in a screw with a
large head, like a tumbler-screw. In this case it is necessary to drill a
hole through the stud to let the ramrod pass through.
_Patent Breech, Bursted._—As the right-hand barrel of double
muzzle-loading guns is fired more than the other, it sometimes happens
that the patent breech of this barrel is destroyed or becomes defective.
It can be replaced by taking a piece of good sound iron, cut down one end
of it, and cut a thread the same as if making a breech-pin. After being
fitted to the barrel cup it for powder-chamber like the one removed, and
cut the hook end off to length. Make the nipple seat as given in the
article on that subject. File the hook so as to fit the break-off, remove
from the gun, and case-harden. A somewhat formidable-looking job to the
one who never made one, but very easy and simple when once accomplished.
_Broken Tumblers._—It often happens that the tumbler in a lock is broken
off where the hammer goes on, and no tumbler is at hand to replace it. A
repair may be made by filing away the broken square and filing a groove
or slot down the round part where it went through the lock plate. Fit
a piece of square iron or steel, of the size of the broken square, or
a round piece that will make the square, to the tumbler by filing away
one end to fit the slot filed in the round part. Hold it in place with a
piece of binding wire twisted around it, and braze it with spelter solder
or good soft copper or brass, then finish to fit the hammer.
Another way is to remove the end where it goes into the bridle and then
drill a hole through the tumbler of the size of this end or bearing;
make the piece to be brazed on with one end to fit this hole and put it
through far enough to make the end filed away. When fitted, braze and
finish.
When the trigger catch of a tumbler is broken or is worn away, it can be
entirely removed by filing and a piece of steel fitted or held by a small
rivet and then brazed. After being finished up and fitted to the trigger,
the tumbler can be hardened, care being taken not to heat it sufficiently
to melt the brazing material.
_Describing Lines on Bright Surfaces._—Many gunsmiths find it difficult
to make the pattern of work upon iron or steel, especially after the
surface is finished. Yet it is necessary to have the outline of the
intended form. For instance, if the pattern of a hammer for a revolver or
a gun hammer, the sides of which are both flat (in fact the hammers of
many breech-loading rifles are made in this manner), be required to be
made on a piece of iron or steel that has been faced down, the method is
to drill a hole for the screw or pin on which it turns, then fasten the
pattern to the work by driving a piece of wire into the hole, and, with
a sharp scriber, mark around the pattern, which is then removed and the
work filed away to the line. If the hammer be a broken one, then care
must be taken to have the pieces held carefully as they were before being
broken. If the pieces be somewhat small and difficult to hold properly,
warm them over a spirit lamp and smear the sides to be put against the
blank, lightly with beeswax, and this will tend to hold them better in
place and prevent their slipping.
To obtain a more permanent line and one that will show very distinctly in
all its tracings, coat the surface on which the line is to be made with a
film of copper. To do this take a lump of sulphate of copper, sometimes
called blue vitriol or blue stone, wet it with water and rub over the
bright surface of the work. The moisture will dry in a few minutes,
leaving a surface or film of pure copper. Put the pattern in place and
describe the outline. Upon removing the pattern the line will be found
to be clear and showing very distinctly through the coppery surface.
Three or four light rubs with the sulphate are sufficient to produce this
surface, which is so very thin that it may be easily removed when the
work is done with a fine file, or by rubbing with a bit of emery paper or
emery cloth.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
ON POWDER AND SHOT.
_To Select Buck Shot._—The proper way is to put a wad in the muzzle of
the gun, about half an inch down, and fit the shot in perfect layers; if
this is observed, there will be no necessity to try them in the cartridge
case, as they will be sure to fit. Buck-shot cast from a mould with nine
to the 1⅛ ounce, will just fit a twelve-bore barrel at the muzzle in a
choke bore. If smaller shot is required, choose four to a layer, or five,
and avoid the sizes that come between. At forty yards, all these pellets
ought to go in a 26-inch circle, and the penetration be equal to a small
rifle.
_Weighing Powder, etc._—For weighing powder charges for rifles,
Apothecaries’ scales and the Apothecaries’ table of weights and measures
are used. The table is:
20 grains, 1 scruple;
3 scruples, 1 drachm;
8 drachms, 1 ounce;
12 ounces, 1 pound.
Powder is bought and sold by Avoirdupois weight, which has 16 ounces to
the pound. The table is:
16 drachms, 1 ounce;
16 ounces, 1 pound.
The standard unit of weight of the U. S., is the pound, Troy weight, the
table of which is:
24 grains, 1 pennyweight;
20 pennyweights, 1 ounce;
12 ounces, 1 pound.
The grain, ounce, or pound, Troy, and the grain, ounce, and pound,
Apothecaries’ weight, are precisely the same; but the ounce is
differently divided.
The grain weight is the same in both tables. The pound Avoirdupois, like
the pound Troy, contains 7,000 grains. The pound Apothecaries, contains
5,760 grains.
One pound of powder, Avoirdupois weight, will load 140 fifty-grain
cartridges; 93 seventy-five-grain cartridges; 70 one-hundred-grain
cartridges.
A dram Avoirdupois is equal to 27¹¹⁄₃₂ grains.
In weighing bullets and powder in grains, Troy weight is used, and 437½
grains are equal to one ounce Avoirdupois. The drachm, Dixon measure, is
27½ grains, Troy or Apothecaries’ weight.
COMPARATIVE SIZES OF SHOT.
------------+------------------------------------------------------------
| SOFT SHOT PELLETS TO OUNCE.
+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------
| | | |Baltimore |St. | |Diameter
DESCRIPTION.|Sparks|Tatham |Le Roy| |Chicago|Louis |English|of Shot
------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------
Extra Fine | | 84,021| | | | | | ¹½⁄₁₀₀
Dust. | | | | | | | |
Fine Dust. | | 10,784| | | | | | ³⁄₁₀₀
Dust. | 5910 | 4565 | | | | | | ⁴⁄₁₀₀
No. 12. | 3316 | 2326 | 1778 | 2232 | 2400 | 2820 | | ⁵⁄₁₀₀
” 11. | 1660 | 1346 | 982 | 1536 | 1414 | 1700 | | ⁶⁄₁₀₀
” 10. | 950 | 848 | 822 | 815 | 854 | 1006 | 1728 | ⁷⁄₁₀₀
” 9. | 615 | 568 | 560 | 600 | 596 | 680 | 984 | ⁸⁄₁₀₀
” 8. | 426 | 399 | 375 | 365 | 434 | 490 | 600 | ⁹⁄₁₀₀
” 7. | 305 | 291 | 278 | 290 | 323 | 360 | 341 | ¹⁰⁄₁₀₀
” 6. | 245 | 218 | 209 | 190 | 246 | 250 | 280 | ¹¹⁄₁₀₀
” 5. | 182 | 168 | 166 | 150 | 172 | 190 | 218 | ¹²⁄₁₀₀
” 4. | 130 | 132 | 121 | 125 | 146 | 158 | 177 | ¹³⁄₁₀₀
” 3. | 118 | 106 | 98 | 90 | 118 | 126 | 135 | ¹⁴⁄₁₀₀
” 2. | 90 | 86 | 82 | 70 | 92 | 95 | 112 | ¹⁵⁄₁₀₀
” 1. | 80 | 71 | 69 | 60 | 75 | 82 | 82 | ¹⁶⁄₁₀₀
” B. | 63 | 59 | 58 | 50 | 62 | 68 | 75 | ¹⁷⁄₁₀₀
” B.B. | 55 | 50 | 49 | 45 | 53 | 55 | 58 | ¹⁸⁄₁₀₀
” B.B.B. | 48 | 42 | 44 | 40 | 46 | | 47 | ¹⁹⁄₁₀₀
” A. | | | | | | 50 | |
” A.A. | | | | | | 40 | |
” T. | 41 | 36 | 38 | 35 | | | | ²⁰⁄₁₀₀
” T.T. | 36 | 31 | 32 | 30 | | | | ²¹⁄₁₀₀
” O. | | | | | 38 | 39 | | ²⁰⁄₁₀₀
” O.O. | | | | | 33 | 34 | | ²¹⁄₁₀₀
” O.O.O. | | | | | 27 | 28 | | ²²⁄₁₀₀
” T.T.T. | | | 27 | 26 | | | | ²²⁄₁₀₀
” T.T.T.T.| | | 24 | | | | | ²³⁄₁₀₀
” F. | 22 | 27 | | | | | | ²²⁄₁₀₀
” F.F. | | 24 | | | | | | ²³⁄₁₀₀
------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------
| CHILLED SHOT PELLETS TO OUNCE.
------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------
” 12. | 3328 | 2385 | | | | | | ⁵⁄₁₀₀
” 11. | 1670 | 1380 | | | | | | ⁶⁄₁₀₀
” 10. | 960 | 868 | | | | | 1700 | ⁷⁄₁₀₀
” 9. | 618 | 585 | | | | | 1000 | ⁸⁄₁₀₀
” 8. | 432 | 409 | | | | | 606 | ⁹⁄₁₀₀
” 7. | 318 | 299 | | | | | 350 | ¹⁰⁄₁₀₀
” 6. | 253 | 223 | | | | | 270 | ¹¹⁄₁₀₀
” 5. | 190 | 172 | | | | | 220 | ¹²⁄₁₀₀
” 4. | 142 | 136 | | | | | 180 | ¹³⁄₁₀₀
” 3. | 120 | 109 | | | | | 130 | ¹⁴⁄₁₀₀
” 2. | 106 | 88 | | | | | 110 | ¹⁵⁄₁₀₀
” 1. | 89 | 73 | | | | | 80 | ¹⁶⁄₁₀₀
” B. | | 61 | | | | | | ¹⁷⁄₁₀₀
” B.B. | | 52 | | | | | | ¹⁸⁄₁₀₀
” B.B.B. | | 43 | | | | | | ¹⁹⁄₁₀₀
============+======+=======+======+======+=======+======+=======+========
COMPARATIVE SIZES OF BALLS
------------+------------------------------------------------------------
| BALLS TO POUND.
+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------
| | | |Baltimore |St. | |Diameter
DESCRIPTION.|Sparks|Tatham |Le Roy| |Chicago|Louis |English|of Shot
------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------
Buck 3. | 320 | | | 312 | | | | ²⁵⁄₁₀₀
” 8. | | | | | 320 | | | ²⁵⁄₁₀₀
” 4. | | | 300 | | | | | ²⁵⁄₁₀₀
” 3. | | 288 | 270 | | | | | ²⁵⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ²⁸⁄₁₀₀
S.S.S.G. | | | | | | | 272 |
S.S.G. | | | | | | | 240 |
Buck 2. | 212 | 225 | 238 | 250 | | | | ²⁸⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ²⁷⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ²⁹⁄₁₀₀
” 8. | | | | | | 234 | | ²⁶⁄₁₀₀
” 7. | | | | | 212 | 194 | | ²⁹⁄₁₀₀
S.G. | | | | | | | 176 |
Buck 6. | | | | | 165 | 176 | | ³¹⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ²⁹⁄₁₀₀
I. C. | | | | 174 | | | |
Buck 1. | 165 | 172 | 160 | 182 | | | | ³¹⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ³⁰⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ³²⁄₁₀₀
O. | | | | 166 | | | |
Buck 5. | | | | | | 147 | | ³⁰⁄₁₀₀
O. | 144 | 140 | 145 | | | | | ³²⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ³²⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀
M.G. | | | | | | | 136 |
C.P. | 136 | | | | | | | ³³⁄₁₀₀
Buck 5. | | | | | 136 | | | ³³⁄₁₀₀
L. Buck. | 128 | | | | | | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀
Buck 4. | | | | | | 127 | | ³²⁄₁₀₀
O.O. | | | 120 | 120 | | | | ³⁵⁄₁₀₀
Buck 4. | | | | | 113 | | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀
” 3. | | | | | | 113 | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀
O.O. | 112 | 113 | | | | | | ³⁵⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ³⁴⁄₁₀₀
R. 4. | 100 | | | | | | | ³⁶⁄₁₀₀
O.O.O. | | 100 | | | | | | ³⁶⁄₁₀₀
Buck 3. | | | | | 100 | | | ³⁶⁄₁₀₀
” 2. | | | | | | 97 | | ³⁶⁄₁₀₀
O.O.O. | | | | 88 | | | |
L.G. | | | | | | | 88 |
O.O.O. | 85 | | 85 | | | | | ³⁸⁄₁₀₀
| | | | | | | | ⁴⁰⁄₁₀₀
Balls 38. | | 85 | | | | | | ³⁸⁄₁₀₀
N.P. | | | | 85 | | | |
Buck 1. | | | | | | 84 | | ³⁸⁄₁₀₀
” 2. | | | | | 70 | | | ⁴⁰⁄₁₀₀
58. | | | | 58 | | | |
R. 2. | 55 | | | | | | | ⁴⁴⁄₁₀₀
A.P. | | | | 53 | | | |
Balls 44. | | 50 | | | | 48 | | ⁴⁴⁄₁₀₀
Buck 1. | | | | | 50 | | | ⁴⁴⁄₁₀₀
R. 1. | 36 | | | | | | | ⁵²⁄₁₀₀
32. | | | | 32 | | | |
½ oz. | | | | | | 32 | | ⁵²⁄₁₀₀
M. 18. | 18 | | | | | | | ⁶³⁄₁₀₀
M. 16. | 16 | | | 16 | | | | ⁶⁵⁄₁₀₀
------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------
| COLT PISTOL SIZES.
------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------
Colt 31. |Buck 1| | | |Buck 6 | | |
” 36. |R. 4 | 000 | | |Buck 3 |Buck 2| |
” 44. |R. 2 | B’lls | | |Buck 1 | 44 | |
| | 44 | | | | | |
------------+------+-------+------+------+-------+------+-------+--------
COMPARATIVE SIZES OF GUNPOWDER.
Commencing with the Coarsest Grain of each Quality.
----------+---------+----------+---------
Oriental. | Orange. | Hazzard. | Dupont.
----------+---------+----------+---------
COMMON SPORTING.
----------+---------+----------+---------
| C | | Fg
Fg | Fg | Fg | FFg
FFg | FFg | FFg | FFFg
FFFg | FFFg | FFFg |
----------+---------+----------+---------
FINE SPORTING.
----------+---------+----------+---------
Falcon | | American |
No. 1 | | No. 1 |
” 2 | | ” 2 |
” 3 | | ” 3 |
| | | E. R.
----------+---------+----------+---------
FINE DUCKING.
----------+---------+----------+---------
Falcon | | |
& Wild | | |
Fowl. | | |
No. 4 | No. 5 | No. 5 | No. 1
” 3 | ” 4 | ” 4 | ” 2
” 2 | ” 3 | ” 3 | ” 3
” 1 | ” 2 | ” 2 |
----------+---------+----------+---------
BEST QUALITY SPORTING.
----------+---------+----------+---------
Di’mond | | |
Grain. |Lightning| Electric.|
No. 4 | No. 7 | No. 4 |
” 3 | ” 6 | ” 3 |
” 2 | ” 5 | ” 2 |
” 1 | ” 4 | |
Fg | | | Diamond
FFg | | | Grain.
FFFg | | |
----------+---------+----------+---------
Dupont’s Eagle Rifle powder is the finest grain of sporting powder made;
Oriental Falcon Sporting, No. 3 grain, is the nearest to it in size.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.
_Soft Soldering._—Soft solder, so called, is a composition made by
melting together two parts tin and one part lead. If the gunsmith ever
has occasion to use it, he will need a soldering fluid, which is made
by dropping clippings of zinc into muriatic acid until ebullition has
ceased, then adding to the acid its equal in bulk of pure water, although
some mechanics do not consider the addition of water as necessary.
Clean thoroughly the parts to be soldered together, then wet them with
the soldering fluid. Next place in the joint a thin bit of the soft
solder, and expose to heat, the heating agent to be clear of oil. The
pieces should be held, pressed between the blades of large tweezers, so
that when the solder melts the two parts will come directly together.
So soon as the solder melts, the work must be taken from the fire, as
the soldering will be complete. A little longer exposure would burn the
solder and spoil the work.
_Good Soft Solder._—Good soft solder is composed of equal parts of pure
tin and good soft lead. The lead from old tea-chests is excellent.
Plumbers’ solder is often made of lead three parts and tin one part.
_Soldering Fluid._—A soldering fluid for jewelers’ use is made by adding
to alcohol all the chloride of zinc it will dissolve.
_Brazing._—This consists in uniting iron and other hard-melting metals
with a brass solder. Put the parts together as for soft soldering, lay
the brass between the pieces or along the upper edge of the joint, if it
can be held vertically, and add a goodly supply of pulverized borax to
act as a flux. Heat over a charcoal fire till the brass melts and runs
down into the joint, then take from the fire and cool. Before beginning
the operation of brazing the parts to be put together must be made
entirely clean, and then freshly filed to brightness.
_To Braze Lugs on Gun Barrels._—When not practicable to fasten the lugs
by means of pins or rivets, hold them in place with binding wire. Take a
piece of iron, say ¼ inch thick and 2 inches or more in width, and make
in it a slot some larger than the lug to be brazed. Lay the barrel on
the iron sideways, and pack up the lug so as to lie level, if necessary,
also taking care that it is on straight. Pure copper is excellent for all
kinds of brazing, when the color of the copper is not objectionable.
_Hard Soldering._—See “To Solder Brass,” in Chapter XII, which about
covers the whole thing, varying only in the composition of the solder for
different metals. The brass solder there described acts equally well for
soldering copper, but for silver a solder is made composed of two parts
silver and one part brass.
_Hard Solders._—1. A hard solder that is yellow and easily fusible is
made of copper, 4½ parts, and zinc, 5½ parts.
2. To hard solder iron use good tough brass or sheet copper, with borax
as a flux.
3. Pure copper, cut in thin strips, with borax as a flux, is excellent
for brazing iron or steel.
_Alloy for Adhering to Iron or Steel._—Melt together, tin 3 parts,
zinc 7½ parts, and copper 39½ parts. Clean the iron or steel, file to
brightness and cast the alloy upon it. The iron or steel should be heated
up to about the melting temperature of the alloy. This alloy will adhere
firmly to the other metal, and as its rate of expansion is about the same
as the iron or steel, under all circumstances, it will never come loose.
It finishes up nicely and presents a very neat, light yellow appearance.
Some gunsmiths use it for brazing purposes on account of its adhesive
properties and its ease of fusion. It does not make so strong a joint as
brass or copper, and therefore would not give so “honest” a job.
_Gun Oil._—A good quality of sperm oil is undoubtedly the best oil to
apply to gun work, especially the locks. Any fine animal oil may be used
as a substitute. The oil from the fat of the woodchuck or ground-hog is
admired by many. Fine quality of sewing-machine oil is very good. It must
not be thinned or “cut” with kerosene or benzine, as this reduces its
wearing quality. It must not thicken with exposure to the cold.
Vegetable oils are unfit for the locks of guns. Castor oil will gum up
and become filthy in the extreme. Olive oil or “sweet oil” has very
often been agitated, with common salt, nitric ether, sulphuric acid or
hydrochloric acid to keep it from becoming rancid. Application of such
oil, in addition to its bad lubricating quality, will rust and spoil work
where applied.
If desired to clarify oil, put in a bottle, say a quart of oil, and add
about half a pound of fine lead shavings. In a short time the impurities
will collect on the lead, when the clarified portion may be poured
off. Let the bottle stand in the sun for two or three weeks during the
process, and then filter through fine white blotting-paper. If some
portion be found to congeal by cold, separate the clear portion from the
other, reserving the uncongealed for use during exposure of the gun to
cold weather.
_Gunsmith’s Glue._—Dissolve four ounces of good glue in sixteen ounces
of strong acetic acid by exposure to gentle heat. This is not exactly
a liquid glue preparation—it is only semi-liquid. It may be kept for
any length of time desired, and, when wanted for use, a slight warming
up is all the preparation necessary. The gunsmith finds it not only
very convenient, in case he should have occasion to use glue about his
woodwork, but also very good.
CHAPTER XXXV.
ON JUDGING THE QUALITY OF GUNS.
_The Muzzle-Loading Shot-Gun._—In the days when the gun of this character
was at its zenith, its quality could be approximately decided upon by
a glance at the manufacturer’s brand which it bore, but at present
that rule cannot be so safely trusted. Many of the houses which built
for themselves a fine reputation by the manufacture of fine guns of
the muzzle-loading order, have either ceased to exist, or have gone
exclusively into the manufacture of breech-loaders, consequently the old
brands, though they may still be met with, are not reliable. In truth
they are more often dangerous signs than otherwise, in consequence of
the fact that unscrupulous manufacturers not unfrequently apply them
surreptitiously as an agent to aid in working off their bogus goods. It
is, therefore, best to give brands but little consideration in judging
the quality of new muzzle-loaders, trusting mainly on personal knowledge
as to what a good gun should be, backed up by thorough test in all cases
where such a thing is necessary.
The man capable of becoming a good gunsmith will require no special rules
for his government in this matter. He will know that a steel gun is
preferable to an iron gun, and he will be able to readily distinguish
between steel and iron. He will also know that a gun finely finished in
every particular, is, undoubtedly, a better gun than one put together
in the rough, and his own eyes will quickly tell him as to the finish.
Prompted by these considerations, the muzzle-loading shot-gun is turned
over to the good sense of the gunsmith for adjudgement as to superior or
inferior qualities, leaving him to decide upon it, unbiased by any rules
that could be given, which is the most rational course to pursue, since,
under existing circumstances it would be impossible to make rules that
would be entirely reliable.
_The Muzzle-loading Rifle._—In the case of the old-fashioned Kentucky
rifle, still on the market in limited numbers, eyesight and test, if
necessary, will have to be the main reliance of the gunsmith in judging
of quality. The barrel of a first-quality gun of this character is
wrought iron, made eight-square, and finely finished. The lock is steel,
well put up, and provided with double or set triggers. The stock is
either black-walnut or maple highly polished and oil-finished. The bore
is given as perfect a degree of finish as iron is capable of taking,
and the rifles are deeply-cut and entirely regular all the way through.
The sights are made with great care, some of the finest guns having an
elevating hind-sight to be changed for long or short range—say, for 500
or 50 yards. In some of the older made guns the foresights are silver,
though as a general rule they are made of some kind of white metal
compound not so liable to glimmer as silver. The tube-cylinder has a
vent screw in the end of it, which may be taken out for the purpose of
working in powder in case a ball should have been accidently put down
without powder, which accident, without this provision, would be apt
to necessitate an unbreeching of the gun. The barrels are of different
lengths, ranging from 26 to 40 inches, and the size of bore is equally
varied. It is usually estimated by the number of round bullets a pound
of lead will cast to fit it, as 200 (smallest bore), 175, 100, and so
on down to 50, which is considered the largest bore in common use. The
weight of the gun complete usually ranges at from six to twelve pounds.
A steel-barrel rifle made on the Kentucky plan may be met with
occasionally, though not often. The steel barrel generally adds about
five dollars in cost over that of the iron barrel finished in the same
way, and is supposed to be at least that much better on account of less
liability to wear and roughen in the bore.
The muzzle-loading rifle of more modern style differs very materially
from the old Kentucky rifle in many respects. Mr. Barber, in his “Crack
Shot,” says of it that so many changes are constantly taking place, and
opinions are so diversified, that it is really difficult to state what is
the prevailing style; but he is of opinion that a barrel of from thirty
to thirty-four inches in length, with a bore from thirty-eight hundredths
inch to forty-four hundredths inch will be found to answer best for
general purposes. If for sporting purposes exclusively the barrel ought
to be a little shorter, perhaps, though he believes the great hunters of
the plains use rifles with barrels of from thirty five to forty inches in
length, and of a calibre so small as to enable them to make sixty round
balls out of one pound of lead.
But, still adopting Barber, it is very difficult to lay down particular
rules as to what a muzzle-loading rifle of modern style should be, as
marksmen and gunmakers are both whimsical, and each has his set ideas and
notions concerning the matter. Some advocate a long barrel, while others
maintain that anything beyond thirty-three inches militates against good
shooting.
There are many prominent establishments engaged in the manufacture of
modern muzzle-loading rifles, some of them carrying splendid reputations,
hence in this case a good deal of reliance can be placed upon brands. For
instance, should a rifle be seen marked to Wesson, it is a guarantee of
a good gun, for the reputation of the manufacturer is worth too much to
admit of risking its tarnish by putting upon the market goods bearing his
brand that are not fully up to all that is claimed for them.
And now that reference has been made incidentally to Wesson, a
description may as well be made of some of the peculiarities of his
muzzle-loading rifle as presenting a fair sample of a first-class gun
of this order. And to do this under the best of authority, reference is
made to Mr. Chapman’s book on the Rifle, which is generally accepted as a
standard work.
Referring to the Wesson muzzle-loading rifle, Mr. Chapman says that the
barrel is made of cast steel, not highly carbonized, but thoroughly
annealed in an air-tight oven. The length of the barrel is two feet
eight inches when the loading muzzle is off. Outside, the barrel tapers
a little from breech to muzzle, the difference in diameter being one
fourth of an inch. The barrel is not furnished with a rib, except it be
that the short tube at the breech can be called a rib, the peculiarity
of stocking doing away with the necessity for a regular rib. The gun has
a patent breech, which is made of iron case-hardened. It is joined to
the break-off by the old-fashioned hook, with the addition of a half-lap
joint, secured by a square-headed screw. Such a mode of fastening the
barrel destroys the necessity for wood forward of the breech, and gives a
peculiarly elegant and striking appearance to the arm. The loading-muzzle
is put on by means of four steel wire pins about one-eighth of an inch in
diameter and three-eighths long, and the holes for these pins are located
as near the outside as possible.
The grooves of this rifle are cut with a twist, which turns the bullet
once in three feet six inches. There are six grooves, and the spaces
between them are left entirely square to the interior surface, presenting
a kind of dove-tail appearance. The grooves are not quite so wide as the
spaces between them. The breech is furnished with a vent or breathing
nipple, about the diameter of a common pin, and bushed with platinum.
The lock has back-action, furnished with a single set. The stock is of
black walnut, made as straight as possible. It is furnished with a patch
box, and also a small box to contain a wiper, which can be attached to
the end of the ramrod. A globe sight is fixed into the stock, just behind
the break-off, while a bead sight holds position at the muzzle-end of the
barrel. The weight of the gun complete is ten pounds.
Of course it will be clearly understood that this description is not
offered as of the best muzzle-loading rifle made, but simply because
it happened to be convenient to make. There are, doubtless, other
guns equally as good, and a preference of one over the other, in all
probability, would have to be born of circumstances, as something
peculiar in the tastes or requirements of the person by whom the gun
was to be used, or in the particular line of use to which it was to be
applied.
_The Breech-loading Shot Gun._—Gloan tells us that, in judging the
quality of a breech-loader, there are other things to be taken into
consideration besides the mere shooting of the gun. First among these is
its safety relative to the person using it. There is more machinery and
complication about it than there is about the muzzle-loader, and to that
extent, if not made upon sound principles, and perfectly well made, it is
more dangerous, to say nothing of being less durable.
But the principle must be a prime consideration, for, if a gun, no matter
how well made, is constructed with a working movement which presents
great strain and great friction, it must speedily wear out. Even the
best breech-loader, with the soundest known action, must wear out sooner
than would an arm of less complication, because some peculiar strain
and friction cannot possibly be avoided; hence the great importance of
passing judgment entirely favorable upon only the best.
The first thing to decide upon, then, is the principle upon which the
gun works. No special rules can be given to govern in the formation of
this decision other than that simplicity is always worthy of favorable
consideration—the greater the simplicity the better, provided it works
to the full accomplishment of all the ends desired. Next to simplicity
may be ranked durability, and next to this may come in good shooting and
safety. These last two considerations are put as third and fourth, when
many persons would be inclined to rank them as second and first. Why this
is done is because many of the most common guns are safe enough, so far
as that is concerned, while not a few of them shoot very well for a while.
Some most excellent shooting has been done with extremely common guns,
working upon a principle so complicated and so imperfect as to render
it impossible for them to remain in order beyond a comparatively short
length of time.
The English manufacturers, of good reputation, take great pains with
their breech-loading shot-guns; hence, until within a very few years,
English guns were considered entirely superior to those of American
make, but now it is acknowledged, even by the English people, that in
America we put up, at least, some guns that have no superiors. This last
named fact has somewhat destroyed the weight of English brands with
persons who are looking for a gun of the very best quality. But the
advance on the part of American gunmakers is not the only thing that
has worked against the reputation of English guns for being eminently
the best. The gun-making business of Belgium has seriously injured the
general good name of English guns, just as the watch-making business of
Switzerland has injured the good name of English watches. For instance,
Liege, in Belgium, is almost literally a city of gunmakers. It is
estimated that there are now more small fire-arms made in Liege than in
all the rest of the world put together, though Liege gets credit for
comparatively few of them. The different parts are manufactured there,
and shipped to other countries as gunmakers’ materials, where they are
put together and branded with the name of a maker who really played no
part whatever in the making. In Liege each manufacturing house is devoted
to the manufacture of but a single part, knowing nothing whatever of
the other parts manufactured at other establishments. As a result the
gun made of Liege materials is simply a patchwork, and hence could not
possibly be so reliable as a gun whose every part is made in the same
establishment, and under the eye of the same general superintendent.
England has gone largely into the putting up of these patchwork guns,
simply for the reason that she can buy the Liege materials much cheaper
than she can make them at home. This cheapness is due to the inferior
materials used by the Liege manufacturers, and to the extremely low
rate of wages in Belgium. It is asserted, upon good authority, that the
English “manufacturer” can get his finished materials from Liege, paying
regular Government duty, and put together what would appear to be a fair
quality of double-barrel breech-loading shot-gun, at the cost of about
seven dollars. And he does it, giving the gun to the market under his
own brand, or surreptitiously under that of some other house known to be
more reliable than his own. As a consequence, English reputation is sadly
injured as regards the business of making the best guns, and gunsmiths
can no longer trust to English brands as a sure guarantee of first-class
quality. Of course there are some English manufacturers whom it will
always do to trust, provided one knows to a certainty that the gun is
really genuine.
If that patchwork game is played in this country at all it is on a small
scale as yet, and is confined to the cheapest guns. A gun from any of
our prominent houses is quite sure to be as represented; and, until the
gunsmith becomes so familiar with all the requirements of a good gun,
the maker’s price may be taken as a pretty safe rule by which to judge
of quality. Each manufacturing house is apt to have its guns graded, and
priced accordingly—the higher the price asked the better the gun in
every case, for it is as much the desire of the prominent manufacturer to
make a good name as it is to make a good gun.
Of course this rule can only be considered entirely safe in case where
the scale of prices has been obtained directly from headquarters. Passing
through half a dozen or so of middle houses might work important changes
from the original price list.
Where none of these rules can be brought to bear it is but natural that
the inexperienced gunsmith should turn to his MANUAL for aid in forming
judgment upon the quality of the gun. A few general ideas may not be out
of place.
All the movements of the action should be smooth, and all the joints
should fit to perfection. The locks should have due consideration. When
the hammer is drawn back it should come with less and less resistance
as it rises, and _vise versa_ when the hammer is let down, exerting its
greatest power immediately on reaching the nipple or firing-pin. But
this increase and decrease of power should be extremely gradual, and not
great. Throughout the movement there should be a steadiness and freeness,
or, as Gloan says, an oiliness, which when once realized, can never
afterwards be mistaken. And when by a regular pressure upon the trigger
the hammer is expertly raised and lowered in rapid succession, the locks
should emit a clear ringing sound at the whole and half-cock with the
resonance and regularity of beats in music. When once heard, this, too,
can never afterwards be mistaken. The locks which perform to perfection
under the tests mentioned are technically said to “speak well.”
Turning from the lock to the lever, the latter should close with such
ease as not to require any particular exertion of the wrist, and when
closed it should hold with such a degree of firmness as to place safety,
while discharging the gun, entirely beyond question. The wedges of the
action should be fully and squarely set in the lump.
If a pin gun the pin should fit in the hole with nicety. If too tight,
the barrels might not close, or the pin might be held back to such an
extent that the cap would not be exploded. If too loose an unnecessary
escape of gas at the discharge would be unavoidable, to the discomfort of
the gunner and the weakening of the shot.
If a central fire the plungers should strike the centre of the cap
unvaryingly. The hammer should come upon the plunger with a blow—not a
mere push.
The countersink of the chambers, and the length and breadth of the action
bed, should be closely observed. The countersink should be cut clean
and deep enough to take the rim of the cartridge without leaving the
slightest projection—else the gun will not shut perfectly. But if, on the
contrary, the countersink be too deep the cartridge comes back on the
breech before the charge makes its exit, which increases the recoil and
renders accuracy less certain.
The central fire strikers should not be too short, an imperfection which
might cause the discharge of the gun while closing it. On the other hand,
they should not be too long, as that would interfere with the free motion
of the gun. In the case of a pin gun the pin should invariably stand in
exact line with the hammer, otherwise the blow would be apt to bend it,
and the chances for exploding the cap would be less certain.
There should be no crevices between the wood and iron. If any such
crevice exists between the stock and the false breech it is likely that
the wood was green when put up, which would settle it that the gun was
not the work of a responsible maker, for no such person would work
imperfectly-seasoned wood.
The extractor of the central fire should never be permitted to escape the
closest scrutiny. It should work without the slightest hitch, and its
arms should enclose about one-half of the cartridge rim. The countersink
should fit the rim precisely, in order that there may be no slipping.
_The Breech-Loading Rifle._—Most of the rules suggested as aids in
forming judgment upon the quality of the breech-loading shot gun, can be
trusted as bearing with equal force in case of the breech-loading rifle.
The makers of breech-loading rifles in the United States have won for
themselves a noble reputation throughout the world; and, to be perfectly
plain, there are very few unreliable manufacturers to be met with among
them. As a consequence, there is not much risk to run in passing
judgment upon a breech-loading rifle of American make. The first thing to
decide upon is the principle, if there is a preference in this direction.
Such decision brings up the gun of some particular maker, after which the
road is easy enough—the price set upon the grade of gun by the maker, may
always be accepted as a clear indication of its quality.
In referring thus to American rifles the idea is not advanced that good
guns are not made in other countries—such a position would be going wide
of the truth. There are _some_ gunmakers in England who turn out the
finest rifles that the world has yet seen, and the most costly. They are
models of perfection in every particular, but when the best shooting
is ascertained it is discovered that they have not proven themselves
superior in that respect, to the more substantial (generally speaking),
but less finely finished and less expensive guns of the American
makers. It is this matter of a really good rifle at comparatively low
figures that has given the American product such an enviable reputation
throughout the world.
Then there is another reason for favorable mention of American rifles
in cases where the quality of the gun is to be judged—there are fewer
chances for meeting with counterfeits on American guns than there are on
guns of foreign make. Here the gunmaker is so deeply concerned in his own
good name that it would be very unsafe to attempt running a “bogus” upon
him—he would trace it to the “last ditch.” Not so in case of the English
maker—having no direct interests thrown all over this country like a
network, as have the American makers, he would, in all probability, never
hear of the bogus gun branded to him and sold on his good reputation for
many times more than it was really worth.
In case where there are no means of getting at the quality of a rifle
from the grade affixed and tests made by a responsible manufacturer, the
gunsmith will of course be forced to fall back upon his own resources.
What these are we need not state. The gun must be subjected to a most
critical examination in every part, in obedience to rules laid down for
examining breech-loading shot guns, after which its shooting qualities
must be thoroughly tested. To no botch at the business can be trusted
the shooting test, if it be wished to decide whether or not a certain
rifle can be recommended as being of first-class quality—the work must be
performed at the hands of an expert, and it must be continued until is
secured unmistakable proof as to how the gun shoots. When a man buys a
good rifle he does it in the expectation of becoming the owner of a gun
qualified to shoot well, and, no matter how perfect it might be in all
other respects, the slightest deficiency in this particular would be sure
to rouse a high degree of uncompromising dissatisfaction.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
ON USING THE RIFLE.
_The Old Kentucky Rifle._—The old backwoods hunters who used the long
Kentucky rifle, had really but a very imperfect idea of its capabilities.
The gun was provided with a hind and a fore-sight, the latter a “bead”
located near the muzzle and rising but little above the common level of
the surface of the barrel, and the former a small vertical plate set in
the barrel a short distance in advance of the lock, and containing in the
centre of its upper edge a fine slit through which to look at the “bead”
in the act of taking aim. The hind-sight stood further above the barrel
than the fore-sight, but why it so stood was something about which the
owner seldom concerned himself. Of course the gunsmith knew it was for
the purpose of setting the “aim” below the starting line of the bullet,
in order that the natural curve in its flight might be accommodated,
but this was usually a secret of the gunsmiths which nobody cared to
possess. The sight was immovable, could neither be raised nor lowered,
consequently the gun could not be adapted to circumstances of long or
short range. The elevation of the sight usually crossed the line of
vision and that of the flight of the bullet at about one hundred yards
distance, hence the shooting at shorter range was apt to be a little
too high and too low at longer range. At two hundred yards it was merely
accidental, though the bullet struck with a degree of force apparently
unabated at that distance. If the hunter killed his game at two hundred
yards, he did it by aiming a few feet too high for a “sight” at one
hundred yards, consequently he never shot at that distance so long as
there was a prospect of being able to creep nearer. And yet, with the
right kind of elevated sight the gun would have been equally as effectual
at two hundred yards as at one hundred; in truth it would have been good
for four and perhaps six hundred yards, but the old hunter had not so
much as a dream of any such thing, but went creeping about through the
woods endeavoring to steal upon his game, unconsciously carrying upon his
shoulder an instrument that with so simple a contrivance as an elevated
sight of proper grade might have brought it down almost as far as the
eye could have seen it. And the game well knew the limited capacity of
his gun, particularly the deer, which would frisk off to the distance of
about three hundred yards and there stop, turn around, stamp their feet
and “whistle” at him in apparent derision. Ah! that he had understood
the real capabilities of his gun, and had suddenly invented and applied
an elevated or long-range sight made after some of the approved modern
plans, how he would have astonished them!
In those days of pioneer life in the States now no longer on the
frontier, “match shooting” (it was not called target shooting, then)
was always confined to a certain distance, sixty yards off-hand or one
hundred yards with a rest. The marksman was permitted to take his own
choice of modes. “Shooting matches” were very common in those earlier
times, usually for beef. A fat ox was put up to be shot for at so much
per shot, something on the plan of the modern raffle. When the amount
asked for the animal had been made up, the shooting commenced. The best
shot took first choice, which was one of the hind quarters of the ox,
the second best took second choice, which was the other hind quarter;
the third best took third choice, which was one of the fore quarters,
and so on to the fifth choice, which consisted of the hide and tallow.
Happy occasions, indeed, were those old “shooting matches,” and splendid,
indeed, was some of the shooting. A regular attendance upon numerous
target matches of more modern times, with all the modern appliances,
in the hands of marksmen with national reputations, has never shown us
better shooting at sixty yards, off-hand, or one hundred yards with a
rest.
_General Directions._—Mr. Edward C. Barber, author of the “Crack Shot,”
says the greatest care and nicety is required in loading any kind of
rifle, if we desire to have it shoot with accuracy. A few grains too
much or too little powder will alter the range of the bullet, and the
bullet itself, if not placed in the barrel exactly right, in the case of
the muzzle-loader, will come out at an irregular angle, and, instead
of going straight to the mark, will be turned sideways. This trouble is
avoided by the use of a “starter,” to be had at any gun store.
Supposing that a young man has just possessed himself of a rifle, but
who knows nothing of its use save such information as he has been able
to gather from mere theorists. He makes choice of a suitable place for
taking his first practical lesson, where there is no danger of inflicting
harm upon disinterested persons. He puts up his target and steps off
fifty yards, or it might be better to measure it more accurately than by
stepping.
Suppose the gun to be a first-class modern muzzle-loader. The target
is now arranged; proceed to load. Grasp the barrel of the gun near the
muzzle; turn it round so that the lock is outward, then pour from the
flask the proper charge of powder, using the charger which the gunmaker
has furnished. Be sure that the charger is exactly full—no more nor less.
Pour the powder gently down the barrel, holding the latter upright so
that none of the powder will lodge in the grooves or rifles. Get ready a
“patch,” which has been previously prepared by oiling on one side a piece
of fine but substantial linen with sperm oil such as is used for sewing
machines, and cutting out with a “patch-cutter,” always to be had with
a new gun. Place this patch over the muzzle, oiled side downward, and
then set the bullet perfectly straight and true in the muzzle, and with
the “starter” press it downward two or three inches, using the ramrod to
force it home. Avoid the common error of “ramming” home the bullet, for
two reasons: firstly, because the bullet being jammed on the powder meals
and grinds it, thereby depriving it of a portion of its strength, and,
secondly, because injury is done to the face of the ball, which works
against its taking a perfectly true and accurate flight. The old plan of
making the ramrod rebound to prove that the ball was home, as mentioned
in another chapter, was wrong. Nothing more than a moderate pressure is
necessary, and if you are not willing to trust to this a mark on your
ramrod, to come exactly to the muzzle when the ball is entirely down,
will always tell the tale. Now place a cap on the tube or nipple, which
is, doubtless, full of powder, and the “shootist” is ready for operations.
There are two modes of shooting with a rifle: off-hand, and with a rest,
as has already been intimated. Choose the mode that suits best, and begin
practice.
_Off-hand Shooting._—Barber says the position which should be chosen for
off-hand shooting is one that admits of a good deal of discussion. There
is great difference of opinion on the subject, some good shots contending
that they never could see any difference in their shooting, whether they
were in one position or the other; while others maintain that it is
absolutely necessary to good shooting that certain fixed rules should
be adhered to. There are three recognized methods of firing, viz., the
British or Hythe position, the Swiss position and the American position.
In the first named, the rifleman stands perfectly erect, head slightly
bent forward, feet at right angles to each other, the left advanced about
twelve inches, the right arm raised well up, the left hand advanced so
as to take a firm yet easy grip of the rifle, the butt of which is to be
pressed firmly against the right shoulder, the right hand grasping firmly
the small of the stock. Captain Heaton describes the second method, or
Swiss position, by stating that no particular manner of placing the feet
is required. The whole body is kept perfectly rigid, the chest expanded
as much as possible, against which the left elbow is allowed to rest,
the rifle being held with the left hand as near the trigger guard as it
can be placed. The Swiss rifles have a kind of handle provided for this
purpose. The upper part of the body is thrown back. Before firing the
Swiss marksman invariably takes a long, deep inspiration, which he holds
until the bullet has left his rifle, when he breaks the suspension with
a loud grunt of satisfaction if the shot happens to please him. In the
American position, to draw again from Barber, the legs are kept wide
apart, body slightly bent backward, the left shoulder a little back; with
the left hand he grasps the rifle well out, bringing the arm nearly under
the barrel, so as to form a support; the right arm is thrown out square,
similar to the style adopted in the English position. The butt of the
rifle is not pressed against the shoulder, but in the hollow between the
biceps muscle and the shoulder. Cleveland prefers this method to that
of the English, but Barber does not, as he considers it more constrained
than the other.
But, of course, great men must differ; the world could not get along all
right were it otherwise. The matter of method had best be left to stand
as a matter of taste, or of feeling as to convenience to the marksman, as
very good shooting has been done through all of them.
Having settled this point, bring the rifle up carefully into position,
the eye being steadily fixed upon the object to be fired at; slowly raise
the barrel until the sights and the object are in direct line, and the
instant that this condition is fully apparent press upon the trigger,
still keeping the eye steadily on the mark.
It is always best to hold the breath at the instant of firing; and in
pressing the trigger the forearm alone should act, the arm and wrist
being stationary. No other movement of the body or any member thereof
should take place between the time of securing aim and discharging the
gun. The aim should be quickly taken—a long dwell, with wabblings on
and wabblings off the mark is apt to do more harm than good. On this
point Frank Forrester says: “Though it is necessary to get a sure aim
before firing, it is not necessary to dwell on it before doing so. Every
second between having taken true sight and the giving fire is a second
lost, or worse than lost; for the longer the rifle is held to the face,
the greater the tension of the muscles and nerves, and the likelier are
both to shake and give way. The first true sight is always, with all
fire-arms, the best sight, and a quick shot has as much or more advantage
over a slow shot, with the rifle as with any other weapon.” Barber says
he considers “the _pull_ of the trigger a very important consideration;
it should not be too slight, so as to go off almost involuntarily, nor so
hard as to require force, but so that, by a gentle pressure, commenced
at the moment of taking aim, the slightest extra squeeze will cause the
hammer to fall at the very instant when the aim is perfected.”
_Rest Shooting._—If the old-fashioned backwoods hunters shot with a rest
at all that rest had nothing complicated about it, being usually only the
side of a tree. The rifle was brought up against the side of a tree and
pressed there with the left hand, which held it pretty much after the
plan employed in the American method of off-hand shooting. If the object
to be fired at was occupying an elevated position, as a squirrel among
the branches of a neighboring tree, this kind of rest was a very easy and
good one, but it was not so easy where a horizontal shot had to be made.
In match-shooting with a rest the most common plan was to lie upon the
ground, face downward, somewhat in the natural position of a swimmer, and
put the gun out in front, its muzzle resting upon a small log or block of
wood. These plans are still more or less in vogue in all regions where
the old-style Kentucky rifle remains in common use.
The most popular modern rest, according to Barber, is to have a bench
made about three and a half feet long and ten inches wide, with four
stout legs standing out at considerable angle. The height should be about
level with the breast when sitting down. At one end place a stout piece
of wood about five or six inches high, crosswise, with notches cut in it
to lay the barrel in. It should be well covered with cloth or some other
soft material, and should be securely fastened to the bench. The end of
the bench nearest the shooter may be hollowed out a little for the breast
to fit in. This is a rest for target shooting—it would not be well suited
for the hunter to carry around in the woods with him, of course.
The same authority tells how to make a cheaper rest, by tying three
moderately stout sticks together near the top, and then throwing out the
other ends upon the ground after the manner of the feet of a tripod.
Place your coat in the crotch formed at the top to rest your rifle
upon—that is all there is of it.
Having decided upon the kind of rest to be used, the question of
rest-shooting is settled, as everything else is performed the same as in
shooting off-hand. Most modern sportsmen object to rest-shooting to such
an extent that no artificial rest is admitted at their target matches.
Their reasons for such objections are that a rest is an inconvenient
arrangement that could not be employed either in war or field-sports,
and hence, people ought to learn to shoot well without it. And they do,
but in many instances they shoot with a rest at last, making one of
themselves by lying upon the ground and shooting off the knee or some
other part of the person, or by setting the elbows upon the ground so
as to brace with the gun as permanently as any artificial rest could
possible be. The methods employed by the noted marksmen, Messrs. Fulton
and Bodine, were of this character.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
ON USING THE SHOT-GUN.
_Born Shooters._—Every man who uses a gun at all will feel an ambition
to use it skillfully, and when he finds himself falling short of his
aspirations he will apply to his gunsmith for instructions, for the
gunsmith is expected to set the owner all right as well as his gun. There
will be some difference in results to the gunsmith, however, for when
the gun gets out of fix, and the gunsmith repairs the imperfections, the
owner expects to pay for services rendered, but not so with reference to
himself. He will expect the gunsmith to spend an hour or so in telling
him how to shoot, but it will not occur to him that time is worth the
same in dollars and cents spend it as we may, hence he will never think
of tendering the slightest remuneration for the time consumed in giving
him instructions. We have often thought that a chapter in some book
telling about all there is to tell the novice on the subject of shooting
would be worth a great deal to the gunsmith, as he could turn it over to
his inquiring customers and go on about his work, leaving them to sift
out from the “black and white” the information desired, taking their
own time for it, and digesting everything in accordance with their own
notions. And right here, it may be remarked, is a proper place to put in
just such a chapter, which is done without further preface.
Some popular writer has said that, like the poet, the first-class shot
with a gun, or the “dead shot,” as he is often called, must be born
such—he cannot be made. Good shooting is a fine art, and in none of the
fine arts can perfection be acquired where there does not exist a natural
talent, or natural capacity, if the term be better. Any man with fair
calculation and a reasonably good mechanical eye may, by practice, become
a very passable shot, but without this peculiar natural requirement,
which no one can clearly explain, it will be impossible for him to ever
excel as an expert marksman.
It is not often that a real born shot is met with—they are about as
scarce as true poets and true painters. When one does meet with him one
soon knows him, if there is any shooting going on. Perhaps he is at his
first shooting match. He does not know himself as a “shootist,” possibly.
Curiosity alone, it may be, prompts him to try a shot, so he takes the
gun, and wholly without study or previous experience, blazes away, and,
to the astonishment of all present, shoots almost to perfection. It is
in him as a gift. Some peculiar balance in his organization is the cause
of it, and it is folly to be envious even in the least degree. Nor is it
worth while to despair because such a peculiar balance of organization
did not happen to fall to “our” lot. If there be a wish to succeed, a
little patient study, industry and practice may soon bring the “shootist”
up to the average at least, and that will leave no reasonable cause for
complaint.
_How to Shoot._—This part of the subject need not be brought down to the
simple operation of merely discharging a gun, for it is supposed that
every person with common sense, and old enough to handle a gun would know
how to discharge it when loaded. What is meant, then, by “how to shoot,”
is how to shoot well, and to enable any one to do this, one of the
most important requisites lies in taking aim on the object at which is
expected to be shot. Most young gunners close one eye in this operation,
which, according to the best authorities, is entirely wrong. A man will
learn to take correct aim with a shot-gun much sooner by keeping both
eyes naturally open than he will by holding one closed. Once got in the
habit of shooting with a closed eye, it will be found a most difficult
habit to break up—the “hiding eye” will “close up” just as the finger is
being pressed upon the trigger. And with that “closing up” is very apt to
come a deviation of the gun from the line of correct aim.
Some years ago Mr. Dougall, in his “Shooting Simplified,” advanced many
strong arguments in favor of shooting with both eyes open, basing them
upon correct science. He says the person who takes aim with one eye
closed has robbed himself of half his vision. The single open eye cannot
see the whole of the object at which it looks, but only a part, or one
side of it. Then, it requires the use of both eyes to see and calculate
distance correctly. One eye may outline a thing, but it calls for the
employment of two eyes to give it a perfect perspective.
When an object is hastily caught within the range of both eyes, the sense
of vision is instantly assured as to position of the object, its distance
from the gun, and, if moving, the rate of speed at which it is going. By
a mental operation the brain is promptly impressed with all this, giving
confidence and, consequently, calmness. Here the main point favoring
success has been attained—calmness and a strong belief that the shot is
going to succeed. The moment when this is felt is the one in which to
press upon the trigger. It means that a correct sight is secured, whether
there be time to think about it or not, and hence an instantaneous
discharge of the gun is almost sure to bring down the game.
Since beginning to write this book one of the authors interviewed a
wonderfully successful sportsman with reference to his mode of taking aim
at birds on the wing. “Why, bless your soul!” said he, “I never take aim
at all. I throw my gun in range of the bird, look at the bird with both
eyes open, and the moment a feeling comes over me that I shall kill the
bird if I shoot, I pull the trigger, and it’s about always my bird.” So
it is. But this expert is evidently mistaken with reference to taking
aim: he takes aim mechanically. He thinks only about killing the bird,
without thinking about taking aim, and in response to the securing of
a perfect aim comes the feeling, unexplained in his thoughts, that if
he shoots he shall kill the bird. It is simply a powerful concentration
of thought, which is always of paramount importance in shooting. A mind
scattering over all creation at the time of shooting is no more to be
depended upon for good results than a gun scattering to all sides of a
ten-acre field. There must be concentration in both cases. A man cannot
buy goods, grow crops, swap horses, make poetry, edit a newspaper and
kill birds on the wing with unvarying success all at the same instant.
_Brewster on the Use of Two Eyes._—As the novice who has not devoted much
thought to the subject of shooting, will be apt to feel some surprise
at the idea of the use of both eyes being recommended in taking aim,
the liberty will be assumed of quoting a paragraph from the writings of
Sir David Brewster, offering it as evidence in substantiation of the
foregoing position. In his able work on the Stereoscope he says: “When
we look with both eyes open at a sphere, or any other solid object, we
see it by uniting into one two pictures—one as seen by the right, and the
other as seen by the left eye. If we hold up a thin book perpendicularly,
and midway between both eyes, we see distinctly the back of it and both
sides with the eyes open. When we shut the right eye, we see with the
left eye the back of the book and the left side of it; and when we shut
the left eye, we see with the right eye the back of it and the right
side. The picture of the book, therefore, which we see with both eyes,
consists of two dissimilar pictures united, namely, a picture of the back
and left side of the book as seen by the left eye, and a picture of the
back and right side of the book as seen by the right eye.”
This argues that the sportsman who closes one eye at the time of taking
aim at an away-going bird, really has a very imperfect view of it—but
half a picture, as it were—hence the aim could not possibly be so perfect
as in case where the picture was rendered more distinct by the use of
both eyes, in accordance with the clear explanation of Sir David, who
goes on to state:
“But though we see with one eye the direction in which any object or
point of an object is situated, we do not see its position or the
distance from the eye at which it is placed. In monocular vision we learn
from experience to estimate all distances, but particularly great ones,
by various tests, which are called the _criteria_ of distance, but it is
only with both eyes that we can estimate with anything like accuracy the
distance of objects not far from us.
“The most important advantage which we derive from the use of two eyes
is to enable us to see distance, or a third dimension in space. That
this vision is not the result of experience as monocular vision is, is
obvious from the fact that distance is seen as perfectly by children as
by adults; and it has been proved by naturalists that animals newly-born
appreciate distance with the greatest correctness.”
_Dougall’s Reasoning._—Mr. Dougall says, in his “Shooting Simplified,”
that “A thorough good gun will knock over a hare running broadside, with
four or five shots at seventy yards distance, but full elevation must
be taken, and the gun fired with the head well raised and the eyes kept
steady on the aim, _not_ taking sight along the rib, with the eye well
down behind the breech, as has been erroneously recommended.
“Distance requires elevation in proportion. A rifle is fitted with
graduated sights to meet this, but the elevation of the rib of a
fowling-piece is fixed and immovable. But by a simple law of perspective,
when you look at a hare (or any other object) seventy yards away,
bringing mechanically the sight to bear upon it, you have the breech
of the gun lower than if it were only forty yards off; whereas, if you
adopt the one-eye system, you fire at exactly the same elevation at all
distances. It would be as absurd to take a level aim along the rib at
seventy yards as it would be to fire a rifle at a mark at two hundred
yards with the sight set for one hundred.
“While everything has been done to increase the range of the
fowling-piece, nothing has been done to give the elevation necessary to
take full advantage of the increase of power. As long as the one-eye
system of shooting is adopted, the object, if hit at all, will be struck
only by outside weak pellets, and not by the effective central shot.
“The proper way is to throw the gun well up and into the shoulder; the
setting off of the stock will then bring the gun right in front of the
face; and, the head being erect, and both eyes fixed intently on the
object, the line of motion is commanded, and the aim taken instinctively.
The central pellets have thus an allowance given them to compensate for
distance and the motion of the object. You look along the imaginary line,
higher at the breech according to distance, and at this elevation the gun
is fired, exactly as a rifle target-shooter sets his breech sights to a
given distance.
“How does a man drive a nail? Certainly not by closing one eye and
looking along the hammer; but with both eyes open, he mechanically
balances the hammer and strikes instinctively, never, if accustomed to
the use of the tool, missing his aim. It is the same in shooting.”
Coming directly to the subject of employing binocular vision in taking
aim to shoot, Mr. Dougall quotes from a paper in _Once-a-Week_ to the
effect that monocular vision, while much employed for this purpose,
cannot at all be depended upon. To prove this position, place upon a
table an empty small-mouthed vial, and taking another similar vial full
of water in one hand, shut an eye and approach the vial upon the table;
when apparently near enough, stretch out your arm quickly and endeavor to
pour the water from the full vial into the other, still keeping the eye
closed. You will be very apt to find, as the water comes down, that it is
missing the mouth of the empty vial on account of a miscalculation, due
to monocular vision. Now repeat the operation with both eyes open, and
if care is exercised success will be the invariable result. A similar
miscalculation will be shown to the person who endeavors to approach and
snuff a candle with one eye shut.
Mr. Dougall thinks there can be no reasonable question as to the
advantages of learning to use the shot-gun with both eyes open. This has
been proven time and again by the most rigid tests. It is even a settled
fact that the nearer the eyes of an individual set together in the head
the less he is likely to shoot well. “And yet,” says Mr. Dougall, “how
strange it is to find sportsmen who would still further narrow this
fine provision of nature into the diameter of one retina only. Throwing
the fowling-piece into a line with the object of aim by an instinctive
effort, keeping both eyes firmly fixed on and following the flight of the
object, is the first great principle in shooting well.”
_Gloan on Taking Aim._—The clever author of a neat little book entitled
“The Breech-Loaders,” tells us that when the shot leave the gun the
powder which propels the pellets has started them with sufficient force
to keep them up for a short time against all natural resistances acting
upon them, but finally gravitation, which is pulling upon them all the
time, begins to tell, and carry them downward from the line upon which
they set out.
“The shot have a journey to perform after they leave the gun, and before
they reach the bird. It may be a long journey or a short journey,
according to the distance of the bird; but still it is a journey, and
it takes some time to do it in. While the shot are traveling on their
way, the bird is flying on _his_ way. If the bird is flying across the
shooter, and the aim is at the bird, naturally, by the time the shot get
to the point of aim, the bird has gone on beyond it, and is untouched by
the shot. And if the distance is great, gravitation has affected the shot
and pulled them down below the point of aim. Possibly, too, the wind is
strong, and has blown them a little to one side. So that, assuming that a
sportsman aims steadily and exactly at a cross-flying bird, sixty yards
distant, going a mile a minute, the gun making a pattern good enough to
kill, what results?
“When the shot arrive at their point of destination they are from eight
to ten feet behind the point to which the bird has flown; and they are
from ten to twelve inches below the line upon which the bird was flying.
If the wind is high they are blown aside, even on the lower line, and the
other pellets become harmless if they hit. The bird escapes, as a matter
of surprise to the young sportsman, who is confident that he ‘covered it
exactly.’
“He did cover it, literally, and exactly, and that was the cause of the
miss. If he had aimed the length of a fence rail ahead of the bird and
half the length above it, he would probably have brought it down. As the
shot was, however, the bird was sure to be lost.
“An old shot will shine on range and allowance. His eye will measure
distance as though with a tape-line. He will estimate velocity as with
a registering instrument. He makes his cheek an index of the wind, and
before his gun is at his shoulder he has decided with unfailing skill
where the aim must be, and there he plants the load. If the bird does not
fall it is the gun’s fault, not his.
“By the binocular vision these difficulties, which are so trying to the
novice, are the more readily overcome. The eyes take in the flight of the
bird, and convey the rate of speed at which it flies. The full distance
of the whole perspective of the landscape is made palpable to the sense,
and the finger responds to the call, which is made all the more quickly
and all the more truly because of the certainty which the eyes impart.”
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
ON USING THE PISTOL.
_Natural Talent._—The number of persons who are really good shots with
the pistol is smaller than one would be apt to suppose after considering
how many weapons of this kind are in every-day use. They are almost
as common as pocket-knives, and some of them are capable of shooting
reasonably well at considerable length of range, and yet not an average
of one man in five hundred, who owns a pistol, could be found, perhaps,
who could put fifty per cent. of his bullets through a hat set up for a
target ten paces away. The fact is, the pistol, while capable enough,
if well made, is the most difficult of all our fire-arms to manage,
so far as relates to good performances. There are men who can take a
good revolver and shoot a chicken’s head off every time, ten or fifteen
paces, but of such men there are not very many. And none of them have
ever communicated how they happened to become such fine shots with the
pistol. In some cases they had practiced a good deal, but not more than
had hundreds who were but comparatively poor performers. To come squarely
down to the point at once, the peculiarity which made them good shots
with the pistol was a “born-gift,” as in the case of the best shots with
the shot gun. Any man who practices with the pistol, in accordance with
the established rules governing its use for best results, may soon become
a fair shot, but it calls for more than mere practice to make him an
excellent shot.
_Taking Aim._—The best shots do not take aim by sighting along the barrel
of the pistol, holding it out at arm’s length after the manner of the
wooden figure standing in front of the city shooting-gallery. They do
not close one eye and turn sideways to the object of aim like the ideal
duelist, but they hold out the pistol, look at the object (not the
pistol), with both eyes open, and blaze away, usually putting the bullet
about where they want it to go. There is really no aim-taking in the
case, any more than there is in the case of a boy playing at marbles.
Indeed, shooting a pistol to the best advantage is very much on the
same principle as shooting a marble. The boy takes the marble properly
between his thumb and first finger, holds out his hand in the direction
of the marble to be shot at, but considerably below his line of vision,
looks at the object-marble with both eyes open and “flips” in obedience
to the promptings of a kind of unconscious calculation as to distance,
force at command, effect of gravitation, and so on. The marble “flipped”
curves out on its way, and, if shot from the hand of a skillful player,
strikes its mark with astonishing certainty. Just so with the bullet sent
from the pistol; under the management of a skillful performer it goes in
obedience to an unconscious calculation, and not in obedience to the
squinting of one eye along the barrel. Sight-taking won’t do in either
case; the good marble player would be a hopeless failure if he held
up his arm to his line of vision and took sight every time he went to
“shoot”—the pistol-shooter who performs upon the same plan is invariably
a marksman of sterling uncertainty, to say the least.
_Cane Aiming._—Some people are so deficient in the species of calculation
necessary to successful pistol-shooting, on the plan suggested in the
foregoing, that they cannot do much at it. Such as these have some excuse
for taking sight, but holding the pistol out at arm’s length and sighting
along the barrel or through its “sights” rarely gives them more than very
little certainty. The best method of actually taking sight with a pistol
is performed in connection with a rod some three feet long—usually with
a walking cane. Grasp the grip of the pistol in the right hand, in the
usual way, and take the cane in the left hand. Bring the handle of the
cane up against the shoulder like the breech of a gun, pass the pistol
down along the side of it till the barrel reaches the left hand, and both
hands are in easy position. Hold the cane between the thumb and first
finger of the left hand, letting them pass beyond it and grip the barrel
of the pistol between the end of the thumb and the turned-up end of the
finger. Let the thumb and first finger of the right hand also grip the
cane beyond the “grip” of the pistol. The aim of the pistol should range
a little to the right of the direction pointed by the cane, which it
will very naturally do.
This plan steadies the pistol and affords as fine an opportunity of
taking perfect sight as one could have with a rifle. A little practice
with it, to enable one to arrive at a certain conclusion as to the rise
or fall of the bullet, will soon pave the way for pretty fair shooting.
A kind of clasp with which to fasten the pistol to the cane is now on
the market, and may be made to work very well, though some would always
prefer holding the pistol with the hands, in the manner just described.
_The Best Pistols to Use._—It is not advisable to say a recommendatory
word about any particular make—how could it be done, under the above
heading, when there are twenty or thirty really good pistols now before
the public under the brand of the same number of different manufacturers?
The best pistol for any person to use is any good pistol that this person
happens to like, and no other kind. All pistols do not shoot alike, and,
hence, when any one has practiced with a certain kind until accustomed to
its peculiarities they had better stick to it, as a change would be apt
to throw at least some derangement in the shooting calculations, putting
them under the necessity of a repeated practice. All the best shots
invariably stick to some particular make of pistol, and usually to some
particular size.
In making choice of a size it is best to be governed by the character
of work the pistol is desired to perform. The large pistols shoot
stronger, and, as a general rule, with greater accuracy than the small
ones; still, comparatively small pistols are sometimes known to shoot
reasonably well. They are intended only for short range however, and
hence must not be depended upon when a good performance of long-range
pistol shooting is desired. The large pistol has many advantages over the
small one, while the latter can claim but two over the former. These two
consist in its lightness, fitting it to figure as a pocket pistol, and in
the lesser cost of its ammunition.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
VOCABULARY OF MECHANICAL TERMS USED BY GUN-MAKERS.
_Action._—The iron bed attached to the stock of a breech-loading gun,
into the recess of which the lump descends and is secured. The term
is used generally as “side action,” “snap action,” etc. The word is
also used to indicate the different form of gun locks, as back-action,
bar-action, front-action, etc.
_Anneal._—To render more soft, as in the case of iron and other metals.
_Auxiliary Rifle._—A rifle-barrel some twenty inches in length, and so
arranged that, like a cartridge, it may be slipped within the barrel of
a breech loading shot-gun, thus at once converting the shot-gun into a
rifle. The rifle-barrel, charged with its cartridge, may be placed in the
shot-gun in a moment and at pleasure.
_Back-action Lock._—A lock that is located entirely back of the barrel,
being bedded in the stock alone.
_Bar-action Lock._—When the lock is bedded partly back of the barrel and
partly along side of it.
_Barrel._—The iron or steel tube of the gun through which the charge
passes in the act of firing.
_Barrel-loop._—A metallic loop under the barrel, through which a small
bolt passes to hold the barrel into the stock.
_Bents._—The notches in the tumbler of a gun-lock.
_Black-Walnut._—A tree, native to North America, whose wood is
extensively used in the manufacture of fine gun stocks; the _Juglans
nigra_ of botanists.
_Binocular Vision._—Seeing with two eyes.
_Bolt._—The part which, in a breech-loader, passes into the lump of the
barrel and holds it into the action when the gun is closed.
_Bore._—The interior of the barrel along which the charge passes.
Bores are made of the following forms: True cylinders; cylinders enlarged
at the breech; cylinders enlarged or freed at the muzzle; tapered to
narrow at the muzzle; narrowed to close at the muzzle; cylindrical,
with ring cut out near muzzle; narrowing the muzzle with depth cut out,
modified, etc. Bores are also made elliptical, hexagonal, polygonal, etc.
_Brazing._—Soldering iron with brass or copper as a solder.
_Breech._—In earlier days all that portion of the gun back of the lock
was considered _the_ breech, but now a gun is regarded as having two
breeches: the breech of the barrel, the place where the cartridge is
inserted, as in the case of the breech-loaders, and the breech of the
stock, being that part which comes against the shoulder.
_Breech-bolt._—A small iron bar used in some make of guns to assist in
holding the barrel secure to the action.
_Bridle._—That piece in the lock connected with the tumbler as a kind of
cap.
_Browning._—A rust produced on the surface of gun-barrels by means of
acids.
_Bump._—The corner of the stock at the top of the heel-plate.
_Burnisher._—A piece of smooth and hardened steel used in polishing the
surface of metals.
_Calibre._—The diametrical measurement of the bore of a gun barrel.
Breech loaders are made of 10, 12, 14, 16 and 20 calibre. Muzzle loader
of every variety of measurement.
_Cap._—The metal covering placed on the end of a pistol handle. Also
the small cup-like contrivance put on the nipple upon which the hammer
strikes to fire the gun.
_Carbine._—A short form of rifle; so made to be easily carried by persons
who used them mounted on horses.
_Cartridges._—The ammunition for a gun, contained in metal or paper
cases. They are sized to regular numbers, as gauge 10 or 12, etc., and
are of two kinds, central-fire and rim-fire.
_Case-hardening._—A hardened, steel-like exterior given to iron by
heating it in connection with animal charcoal, and then plunging while
hot in cold water.
_Central-fire._—Setting off the cartridge by striking it in the centre,
where the fulminate is placed.
_Chamber._—The enlarged space in the breech of the barrel wherein
the cartridge is placed, or where the charge rests in the case of a
muzzle-loader. The bores intended to receive the charge in the cylinder
of a revolver. In loading a gun with coarse shot, if they rest in the
barrel side by side in regular layers or strata, we say they chamber; but
if they are a little too large for this, so that some of the shots must
lie above the common level for want of space between other shots and the
side of the bore to admit of their going down, we say the gun will not
chamber shot of that particular size. A gun is not supposed to shoot shot
to perfection which she cannot chamber.
_Charger._—A small measure employed for measuring powder in loading a gun
or cartridge-shell.
_Chequer-work._—The chequered carving as made on the stock of a gun.
_Cherry-mould._—A small spherical cutting-tool, used for enlarging
the interior of bullet moulds. It may be bought of houses dealing in
gunsmith’s materials, or it may be made by dressing a piece of soft steel
down to proper shape, cutting file-teeth upon it and then hardening in
the usual way. To use the cherry, close the mould upon it and then turn
it round and round until the interior of the mould is cut out to the
required size and shape.
_Cherry Tree._—A North American tree, growing to about medium size and
furnishing a hard, reddish and most beautiful wood, highly prized for
fine gun stocks. It is now getting to be quite scarce. Botanical name,
_Cerasus serotina_.
_Choke-bore._—A gun-bore slightly larger at the breech than at the muzzle.
_Choke-dressing._—Dressing out the bore of a gun so as to make it
slightly larger at the breech than at the muzzle.
_Clamp, Mainspring._—A mainspring clamp is a kind of vise used by
gunsmiths for clamping the mainspring preparatory to taking it from the
lock.
_Cock._—In flint-lock guns, that part of the lock which holds the flint.
The name is also often applied to the hammer of percussion and other
locks of more modern make. When the hammer has been pulled back to its
last catch, we say the gun is cocked, or at full-cock; when pulled back
to the catch next preceding the last, we say the gun is half-cocked, or
at half-cock.
_Comb._—That portion of the stock upon which the cheek rests at the time
of firing.
_Cone._—See Nipple.
_Countersink._—The recess in the chamber in which the rim of the
cartridge fits.
_Cross-Fire._—We say a rifle “crosses fire” when it plays the balls on
the same level without varying upward or downward.
_Curled Maple._—This is not a species of growth, but an unexplained
condition to be met with in the wood of the maple, most commonly in that
of the sugar or hard maple (the _Acer saccharinum_ of botanists), though
occasionally in _Acer rubrum_, or red maple. The grain of the wood lies
in regular waves, presenting a most beautiful appearance when nicely
dressed up. It is very popular for fine gun stocks.
_Cylinder._—That part of a revolver in which the charges are placed. In
the older make of percussion lock guns a short plug screwed into the side
of the barrel at the breech, in which was placed the cap-tube or nipple,
and through which the fire from the cap was communicated to the charge.
_Damascus._—The variegated appearance on gun barrels, produced by welding
together metals dissimilar, as steel and iron, and then, while heated,
twisting these metals into various tortuous forms and re-welding. The
colors of the dissimilar metals are brought out by browning mixtures.
_Direct Fire._—That arrangement in a breech-loader by which the plunger
lies and strikes the ignition horizontally.
_Dog._—That part of the gun-lock acted upon by the trigger to release
the tightened mainspring and set the hammer in motion. Earlier gunsmiths
called it by this name, but it is now usually called the sear.
_Double Triggers._—Often called set-triggers. A pair of triggers arranged
to a rifle, occasionally, to admit of setting it off with but slight
pressure. The triggers are located one in advance of the other under the
guard. To operate pull upon the rear one until it “clicks” and is “set,”
after which cock the gun. The slightest pressure upon the front trigger
springs the “set,” which acts suddenly upon the sear, releasing the
mainspring.
_Drop._—Distance measured from the top of the butt of a gun stock to a
line drawn rear-ward from the top of the barrels, usually from 2 to 3½
inches.
_Elevated Rib._—The raised rib on top of and between the barrels of a
shot gun.
_Escutcheons._—Pieces of metal, through which the bolt to hold the barrel
to the stock, is passed.
_Extractor._—An automatic working rod in central fire guns, by which the
empty cartridge is partly withdrawn from the chamber.
_False Breech._—A piece of iron permanently screwed to the stock to fit
squarely against the breech of the barrel. In the modern muzzle-loader
the barrel is secured against it by hooks. It is also called a patent
breech, also a standing breech.
_Fastenings._—Mechanism for holding the barrel of breech-loaders securely
to the frame or action when the barrel is in position for firing.
_Flash._—In the days of the old flint-lock a gun was said to “flash” when
the priming ignited in the pan but failed to fire the charge.
_Flux._—A substance or mixture used to facilitate the melting of metals
or minerals, as glass, borax, and the like.
_Fore Piece._—That portion of the stock lying under the barrel, forward
of the lock, called also fore-end and fore-arm.
_Fore Sight._—The sight located nearest the muzzle end of the barrel.
_Forge._—A furnace with its accompaniments where iron or other metals are
wrought by heating and hammering. When a piece of metal is hammered into
some required shape, the operation is termed “to forge it.”
_Fowling Piece._—A smooth bored gun, used for hunting small game,
shooting shot or small pellets.
_Freeing._—Slightly enlarging the bore of a gun at the muzzle.
_Frizzen._—In the old flint-lock the steel plate that covers the pan and
stood up in front of the flint, against which the flint struck to produce
fire to ignite the priming.
_Grip._—A name usually applied to the round part of a gun stock just back
of the locks. It is also applied to the handle of a pistol.
_Guard._—The piece of metal which curves around the triggers and protects
them.
_Half Stock._—A gun stock that does not extend the full length of the
barrel.
_Hammer._—That part of the gun-lock that strikes the plunger or cap, or
other form of ignition. See cock.
_Hammer-Gun._—A gun whose lock works with a hammer.
_Hammerless Gun._—A gun whose arrangements for setting off the ignition
are contained inside the breech mechanism, and not visible when the arm
is ready for use.
_Handle._—See grip.
_Hazel Nut._—A small shrub growing abundantly in many portions of the
United States. The _Corylus_ of botanists, divided into two species,
_Americana_ and _Rostrata_.
_Head._—In a gun stock, the part where the breech end of the barrel rests
against.
_Heel Plate._—The metal piece terminating the breech end of a gun stock.
_Hind Sight._—The sight upon the barrel, nearest the breech.
_Hinge Pin._—A pin fixed in the action on which the barrel plays.
_Ignition._—Any chemical combination which can be caused to explode and
fire the charge, as in a cap or cartridge, for instance.
_Kentucky Rifle._—A form of rifle, once very popular with Western
hunters, and now used to some extent. It is muzzle loading, and the great
length of the barrel was one great peculiarity.
_Kick._—When a gun rebounds at firing the term is used “it kicks.”
_Land Space._—The space in the bore of a rifle between the grooves.
_Lever._—The bar or rod the working of which locks or unlocks the action
of a breech-loader, enabling the operator to open or close the gun. As
top-lever, side-lever, under-lever, etc.
_Lock Plate._—The flat plate to the inside of which all the other parts
of the gun-lock are secured.
_Loop._—The projection under the barrel to which the fore end is
fastened. See barrel loop. They are of two kinds, wire and bolt loop.
_Long Fire._—When a noticeable space of time intervenes between the
striking of the hammer and the explosion of the charge, hence the term,
the gun has made “long-fire.”
_Lower Rib._—The rib underneath and between the barrels of a shot gun.
_Lump._—The iron piece soldered to the barrel of a breech-loader, which
descends into the action and is there secured preparatory to firing.
_Magazine Rifle._—A rifle provided with an interior magazine for
containing cartridges, and so made that they are passed automatically
into a chamber ready for firing.
_Mainspring._—The large spring in the gun-lock which imparts action and
power to the hammer.
_Monocular Vision._—Seeing with only one eye. When one eye is closed, as
some do in taking sight with a gun, it is a case of monocular vision.
_Mould._—An implement for moulding bullets. The plural form is generally
given to it, as bullet moulds.
_Musket._—A form of gun, smooth bored and formerly used for military
purposes. When grooves are cut in the interior of the barrel, it is
called a rifle.
_Nipple._—In a percussion-lock gun, the tube upon which the cap is
placed. In the central-fire breech-loader, the tube through the standing
breech in which the striker or plunger works.
_Nipple Wrench._—An implement used for screwing the nipples into position
or out. It is often called a tube-wrench.
_Oblique Fire._—Indicates that the plungers of a breech-loader lie and
strike the ignition obliquely.
_Pan._—A small pan-like outside on the flint-lock, which holds the
priming, and in which the latter is ignited by a spark from the flint
striking the frizzen.
_Patent Breech._—See false breech.
_Pepper Box Pistol._—One form of revolver pistol, in which the barrels
are made full length from one piece of metal. The rotation of the barrels
and the action of the lock to fire the arm was produced by pulling the
trigger.
_Picker._—A small wire implement hung to the shot-pouch of the hunter
in the days of the old flint-lock, and used when occasion required for
picking priming into the touch-hole of the gun.
_Pipes._—Short tubes attached to a barrel or to a rib attached to the
barrel to receive the ramrod and hold it in place.
_Pistol._—A small variety of fire-arm, so made as to be easily carried in
the pocket or a holster, and readily manipulated and fired with one hand.
_Pistol Grip._—A gun stock whose grip inclines to turn down like the
handle of a pistol, is said to have a pistol grip.
_Play._—A rifle which does not shoot with regularity is said to play its
balls.
_Plungers._—The pins which are struck by the hammers, in breech-loaders,
and which in turn strike and explode the ignition.
_Powder Bed._—The chamber, in a muzzle-loader, where the powder lies when
the gun is charged.
_Priming._—The powder in the pan of a flint-lock gun.
_Proof Marks._—Impressions of stamps made in gun barrels to indicate that
they have been proved.
_Proving._—Firing gun barrels with very heavy charges of powder and balls
to ascertain if they are of proper strength.
_Ramrod._—A rod with which the tightly fitting portions of the charge are
pushed home in loading a muzzle-loader.
_Rebounding Lock._—A lock which has the top of the mainspring and crank
of the tumbler lengthened to such an extent that when the trigger is
pulled the hammer delivers its blow and immediately rebounds to the
half-cock.
_Rib._—The metallic strip lying between and connecting the barrels of a
shot-gun. See lower rib and upper rib.
_Rifle._—A gun having grooves cut parallel with each other along the
interior of the barrel. They usually take a more or less spiral course
for the purpose of imparting to the bullet thrown a whirling or twisting
motion on its flight through the air. The grooves thus cut are sometimes
called rifles.
_Rifle._—A gun with grooves cut in a twisted or spiral-like manner on the
interior of the barrel, for the purpose of giving the projectile a rotary
motion on its axis during its flight. The design being to give greater
accuracy to the course of the bullet.
_Rifle Cane._—A metallic walking staff, which is virtually a rifle,
capable of shooting with much force. The lock works internally, and
everything is so arranged as to pretty effectually conceal the true
character of the arm, it, at a casual glance, presenting only the
appearance of a neat walking-stick.
_Rifle Guide._—An implement used by the gunsmith to guide the course of
his rifle-saws in cutting grooves in the bore of a barrel.
_Rifle-Saws._—Short files made to fit in the grooves of a rifle. They are
usually attached to a rod, near the end, and drawn to and fro through the
gun for the purpose of filing the grooves down to greater depth, where
such a thing is required. In cases where new grooves are to be cut in a
smooth-bore, the rod passes through a rifle-guide, which forces the saws
to take the proper twist through the barrel.
_Rim-Fire._—A cartridge whose ignition is around the rim instead of
in the centre, and which, consequently, can be used only by some arm
striking the cartridge at the rim.
_Rouge._—A fine powdery material, used for putting a high polish upon
the surface of well-finished metals. It is usually applied by rubbing in
connection with soft leather, either in the form of a buff or otherwise.
_Saturated Solution._—A liquid holding in solution as much of some
particular soluble chemical as it will dissolve. For instance, if salt
be put in water until a portion remains undissolved at the bottom of the
vessel, there is in the liquid a saturated solution because it holds in
suspension all the salt that it can dissolve.
_Scatter._—When a shot gun throws the pellets over a range of space
unusually wide, it is said that it scatters.
_Scroll Guard._—An extension downward from the trigger guard, to steady
the hand. It is designed to answer the same as pistol grip.
_Sear._—Sometimes called dog, which see.
_Sear-Spring._—The small spring in a gun-lock which presses the sear into
the notches of the tumbler.
_Set-Triggers._—See double-triggers.
_Side-Lever._—A lever which works at the side of a breech-loader.
_Side-Screw._—The long screw holding the lock to the stock.
_Slack-Tub._—A vessel containing cold water, to be used in suddenly
cooling hot metals, as in hardening steel, for instance.
_Smooth Bore._—A gun for throwing single bullets, made on the plan of
a rifle, but having no grooves in the bore. It is sometimes called a
“smooth-bore rifle.”
_Standing Breech._—See false breech.
_Steady-pin._—The small projection on the mainspring which fits into the
lock-plate.
_Strap._—The metal strip in a breech-loader which runs from the
breech-works down the stock, in place of the tail, or the old fashioned
breech-pin.
_Strikers._—See plungers.
_Sugar Maple._—A tree indigenous to the United States, whose wood is
extensively used in the manufacture of gun-stocks. See curled maple.
_Swivel._—The small piece in a lock connecting the tumbler and the
mainspring.
_Tear._—When a bullet makes a hole larger than its own diameter,
particularly in the flesh of an animal, the gun from which it was shot is
said to tear.
_Tenons._—Iron projections on the lump of a breech-loader, to fit into
corresponding spaces in the action.
_Thimbles._—The metallic loops on the under side of a muzzle-loader, made
to hold the ramrod when not in use.
_Toe._—The extremity of the breech which rests nearest the armpit when in
the act of taking off-hand aim.
_Top Lever._—The lever of a breech-loader, which works on the upper side
of the gun, just back of the hammers.
_Trigger._—The small lever under the gun, upon which is pressed with the
finger to release the confined mainspring and allow the hammer to descend.
_Trigger-Plate._—The iron plate in which the trigger works.
_Trigger Spring._—A small spring to keep the trigger pressed close to the
sear.
_Tube._—The modern gunmaker calls the gun-barrel a tube; in old times
the only tube known to the gunsmith was that projection upon which the
percussion cap was exploded. See nipple.
_Tube._—See nipple.
_Tumbler._—That part of the lock directly connected with the hammer, and
in which are the two set notches.
_Tumbler-Screw._—The screw on the outside of the lock, passing through
the hammer and holding it securely in its connection with the tumbler.
_Upper Rib._—The rib above and between the barrels of a double-barrel
shot-gun.
_Vent._—A small hole in side of the gun breech communicating with the
interior or powder chamber.
_Vise._—An implement for clamping or holding.
_White Maple._—The _Acer dasycarpum_ of botanists—a near relative of the
sugar maple. Common in many parts of the United States. Called soft maple
in some localities.
_Whole-Stock._—A gun-stock extending the entire length of the barrel.
_Wiper._—A long ramrod used only in wiping out and cleaning the bore of a
muzzle loader. Also a small spiral implement made to screw on the end of
a ramrod for the purpose of boring into and drawing a wad from a gun, or
for holding material for wiping. Sometimes called a wormer.
_Wormer._—See wiper.
CHAPTER XL.
VOCABULARY OF CHEMICALS AND SUBSTANCES USED IN BROWNING, VARNISHES, &C.
_Acid, Gallic._—Acid produced in yellowish colored crystals, derived from
nut-galls or oak-apples. Soluble in water and alcohol. Nut galls are an
import ingredient in the manufacture of good black ink.
_Acid, Muriatic._—Called also Hydrochloric Acid and sometimes spirit of
salt. Made by the action of sulphuric acid on common salt (chloride of
sodium). Mingled with half its volume of Nitric Acid it forms Aqua Regia.
_Acid, Nitric._—Sometimes called Aqua Fortis. Made by the decomposition
of Nitre, or saltpetre by strong sulphuric acid.
_Acid, Sulphuric._—Called oil of vitriol, made from sulphur and nitre or
saltpetre.
_Acid, Hydrochloric._—Called Muriatic Acid, which see.
_Alcohol._—The product of the fermentation of sugar, and is contained
in all fermented liquors. It is a colorless fluid, boils at 173° F. and
burns without smoke. The volatile oils and resins are dissolved by it, as
well as many acids and salts, the caustic alkalies, etc. The resulting
compounds of the acids upon alcohol are called ethers.
_Alkanet Root._—The root of a species of Bugloss. It affords a fine
red color to alcohol and oils, but a dirty red to water. The spirituous
tincture gives to white marble a beautiful deep stain.
_Annatto._—Also spelled Anotta and Anotto. A red coloring substance
obtained from the pulp of the seed-vessel of the plant _Bixa orellana_.
It dissolves better and more readily in alcohol than in water.
_Antimony, Chloride of._—Called also Butter of Antimony and
Sesquichloride of Antimony. Made by distilling the residue of the
solution of sulphuret of antimony in strong hydrochloric acid, or by
distilling a mixture of corrosive sublimate and antimony. It is highly
corrosive. In medicine, used as a caustic.
_Antimony, Butter of._—See Antimony, Chloride of.
_Aqua Fortis._—Called also Nitric Acid, which see.
_Aqua Regia._—Made by mixing one part nitric acid in two muriatic acid,
by measure; keep the mixture in a bottle in a cool, dark place.
_Asphaltum._—Native bitumen, will dissolve in turpentine with gentle heat.
_Benzoin, Gum or Gum Benjamin._—A gum extracted from the tree, _Styrax
benzoin_, which grows in the East Indies. It fuses at a gentle heat,
can be dissolved in alcohol and imperfectly dissolved in ether. It is
employed as a varnish for toilet and other articles, which give out an
agreeable smell when warmed by the heat of the hand.
_Blue Vitriol._—Sulphate of copper. A salt formed by sulphuric acid in
combination with copper. It is soluble in cold or warm water, used much
in dyeing and exciting galvanic batteries.
_Brimstone._—See sulphur.
_Brimstone, Black._—Crude sulphur.
_Burnt Umber._—Umber is a mineral of brown color from the Island of
Cyprus. Two kinds are found in the market, raw and burnt.
_Butter of Antimony._—See antimony, chloride of.
_Camphor._—A solid concrete substance, _Laurus camphor_ or Indian laurel
tree, which grows in the East Indies, China and Japan. Soluble in
alcohol, ether, oil and acetic acid.
_Chloride of Antimony._—See antimony, chloride of.
_Chloride of Mercury._—Called corrosive sublimate, which see.
_Chloride of Iron._—See muriate of iron.
_Copal._—The concrete juice of a tree growing in South America and the
East Indies. Strictly speaking, it is not a gum or a resin, but rather
resembles amber. It may be dissolved by digestion in linseed oil with
heat little less than sufficient to boil the oil. The solution, diluted
with oil of turpentine, forms a transparent varnish. It also dissolves in
ether, and the ethereous solutions may be mixed with alcohol.
_Copperas._—Sulphate of iron or green vitriol. A salt made by the
decomposition of iron or iron pyrites in oil of vitriol. Dissolved in
water, is the basis of black dyes, and is used in making ink, &c.
_Copper, Sulphate of._—Called blue vitriol, which see.
_Corrosive Sublimate._—Chloride of mercury. A salt prepared by the
decomposition of sulphate of mercury by common salt. It is a deadly
poison. It is soluble in alcohol, ether, in two or three parts of hot
water and in about 15 parts cold water. It melts and sublimes about 600°.
The white of eggs is an antidote for the poison.
_Damar or Dammar._—A gum obtained from the agathis or dammar tree, allied
to the pine trees, growing in the East Indies. It is soluble in alcohol
and in oil of turpentine.
_Dragon’s Blood._—The inspissated juice of various plants, of a red
color, used for tinging varnishes, tooth tincture, staining marble, &c.
_Ether, Nitric._—Mode of distilling equal parts of strong nitric acid
and alcohol with a few grains of urea. It is liquid, colorless, of sweet
taste, and insoluble in water. It boils at 185° F. The vapor explodes at
moderate heat.
_Elemi._—A resin obtained from plants grown in the East Indies and South
America. In making lackers, it is used to give toughness to the varnish.
_Fustic._—The wood of a tree growing in the West Indies. Used for dyeing
yellow.
_Gallic Acid._—See Acid, gallic.
_Green Copperas._—Sulphate of iron. See Copperas.
_Green Vitriol._—Copperas, which see
_Hydrochloric Acid._—Muriatic Acid, which see
_Iron, Chloride of._—See Muriate of Iron.
_Iron, Muriate of._—See Muriate of Iron.
_Iron, Sulphate of._—See Sulphate of Iron.
_Iron, Sesqui-Chloride of._—Perchloride of iron or permuriate of iron.
Made by dissolving rust of iron in muriatic acid and then crystalizing.
It forms red crystals. Soluble in water, alcohol and ether. Very
corrosive.
_Logwood._—The wood of a tree growing in Central America. The extract is
used in dyeing black color.
_Madder._—A plant of the genus Rubia, one species of which is used in
dyeing red.
_Manganese, Sulphate of._—A beautiful rose-colored salt, used to give a
fine brown dye.
_Mastic._—A resin exuding from the mastic tree. It is in yellowish-white,
semi-transparent tears. Used as an ingredient in varnishes.
_Mercury, Quicksilver._—A metal fluid at ordinary temperatures.
Congealable at about 40° below zero. Boils at 660° and forms a colorless
dense vapor. It is used in barometers and thermometers, and in alloy
with tin in coating mirrors. It unites with chloroform, forming calomel
and corrosive sublimate. The only acids that act on it are sulphuric and
nitric. To unite with the latter it must be heated.
_Mercury, Chloride of._—See Chloride of Mercury.
_Mercury, Horn._—Called Chloride of Mercury.
_Mercury, Muriate of._—Chloride of Mercury.
_Muriate Tincture of Steel._—See Muriate of Iron.
_Muriate of Iron._—Called Chloride of Iron. Made by dissolving iron
filings in muriatic acid and crystalizing by evaporation. Crystals of
green color being the result.
_Nitrate of Silver._—Made by dissolving silver in nitric acid and
evaporating the solution in crystals. Will dissolve in warm water. Is
used for indelible ink to mark clothing and in photography. When fused
and cast in small sticks is called lunar caustic.
_Nitric Acid._—See Acid, nitric.
_Nitric Ether._—See Ether, nitric.
_Oil of Vitriol._—See Acid, sulphuric.
_Pearlash._—Carbonate of potassa. An alkali obtained from the ashes of
trees by leaching. When evaporated to dryness in iron kettles it is
called potash, but when calcined to burn off the coloring matter it is
called pearlash.
_Potash._—See Pearlash. Sometimes called salts of tartar.
_Pumice Stone._—A substance resembling the slag from furnaces, ejected
from volcanoes. The pulverized material is used to remove the gloss and
imperfections on varnished surfaces by rubbing with a woolen cloth and
water.
_Quicksilver._—See Mercury.
_Rotten Stone._—A soft stone used for fine grinding and polishing.
Generally used after pumice stone, and is applied with a soft woolen
cloth and sweet oil.
_Salts of Tartar._—See Potash.
_Sandarac._—A resin that exudes from tree growing in Africa. Fusible by
heat and soluble in alcohol. Used in varnishes.
_Sesqui-Chloride of Iron._—See Iron, Sesqui-chloride of.
_Shellac._—Lac is a resinous substance produced mainly from the banyan
tree of the East Indies. It is the product of an insect. Stick lac is
the resin in its natural state; seed lac when broken up, cleaned of
impurities and washed; shellac when it is melted and formed in thin
flakes. United with ivory-black or vermilion it makes sealing wax.
Dissolved in alcohol it makes lackers and varnishes.
_Silver, Nitrate of._—See nitrate of silver.
_Soda._—Common. See potash.
_Spanish Whiting._—Ground chalk carefully cleaned from all stony matter.
_Spirits of Nitre._—An alcoholic solution of nitrous ether.
_Steel, Tincture of._—See muriate tincture of steel.
_Sulphate of Iron._—Copperas or green vitriol. See copperas.
_Sulphate of Manganese._—See manganese, sulphate of.
_Sulphur._—Often called brimstone. A mineral of yellowish color. Soluble
in turpentine, fat oils, bisulphuret of carbon and hot liquor of potassa.
With oxygen it forms sulphuric and sulphurous acids, and with the metals
it combines as sulphurets or sulphides. It is an essential ingredient
in gunpowder, and the gas arising from its combustion is employed in
bleaching straw and woolen goods.
_Tartar, Salts of._—See potash.
_Turpentine._—An oleo-resinous substance as flowing from several
species of pine, larch and fir trees. Oil of turpentine is obtained by
distilling the crude turpentine.
_Umber, Burnt._—See Burnt Umber.
_Venice Turpentine._—A liquid resin which exudes from the larch tree.
The Venice turpentine usually met with is turpentine to which is added a
quantity of black melted resin.
_Verdigris._—A green oxide of copper, very poisonous. The white of eggs
is an antidote for the poison, when taken into the stomach.
_Vitriol, Blue._—Called sulphate of copper. See Blue Vitriol.
_Vitriol, Green._—Sulphate of iron. See Copperas.
_Vitriol, Oil of._—See Acid, sulphuric.
_Whiting, Spanish._—See Spanish Whiting.
CHAPTER XLI.
CALIBRES OF GUNS, RIFLING, TWIST OF RIFLING, ETC.
_European Guns._—The Enfield Rifle; Muzzle Loader, Cal. 577; 3 grooves;
regular twist, slightly deeper at breech than at the muzzle; rifling one
turn in 6 feet 6 inches.
The Purdy Rifle, Muzzle Loader; Cal. 650; 4 grooves; increasing twist,
commencing at one turn in 6 feet and ending at one turn in 4 feet 9
inches.
The Wilkinson Rifle, Muzzle Loader, Cal. 530; 5 grooves with a regular
twist of one turn in 6 feet 6 inches.
The Lancaster Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore smooth and elliptical diameter
at muzzle; greater axis, 550; lesser axis, 540; greater axis at breech,
557; lesser axis, 543. The twist is one quarter turn in whole length of
barrel. Length of barrel, 39 inches.
The Snider Rifle, Muzzle Loader; Cal. 577; 5 grooves, one turn in 4 feet.
The Whitworth Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Polygonal or hexagonal form of bore.
Rifling, one turn in 20 inches. Bore, 564 across the flats. 568 across
center of flats.
The Jacobs Rifle, Muzzle Loader; 4 grooves; loads and grooves equal.
Rifling four-fifths turn in 24 inches.
The Turner Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore, 568. Rifling Turner’s Patent, one
turn in 4 feet.
The Rigby Rifle, Muzzle loader. Rifling 6 grooves; one turn in 4 feet.
The Boucher Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Bore hexagon with angles, rounded off
so as to form shallow grooves, 608 deep in center. Bore, 570. Rifling one
turn in 3 feet 3 inches.
The Prussian Needle Gun, Breech Loader. Rifling 4 grooves, one turn in 40
inches.
The Chassepot Rifle, Breech Loader; Cal. 433; rifling 4 grooves, turning
from left to right, one turn in 21½ inches.
The Snider Enfield, Breech Loader. Rifling 3 grooves slightly deeper at
breech than at the muzzle, one turn in 78 inches. Diameter, 577. Depth of
rifling at muzzle, 05. At breech, .13. Width of grooves three-sixteenths
inch.
Westley Richard’s, Breech Loader. Bore octagonal form. Rifling one turn
in 20 inches.
Regulation Minie Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Rifling one turn in 6 feet 6
inches.
_American Guns._—The Peabody-Martini Rifle, Breech Loader. Rifling 7
grooves, one turn in 22 inches, gain twist, lands and grooves of equal
width.
Maynard Rifle, Breech Loader. Rifling 3 grooves, one turn in 5 feet,
lands and grooves equal width; depth, .01.
Sharp’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Lands and grooves equal width. Rifling one
turn in 20 inches.
Bown & Sons’ Kentucky Rifle, Muzzle Loader. Standard number of grooves 7,
but made with 4, 5, 6, and 7 grooves, same width as lands. Even twist
one turn in 42 inches. Gain twist commences at 9 feet and ends at 6 feet.
Powel & Son’s Breech Loading Rifle, 6 and 7 grooves, one turn in 36
inches.
Steven’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Regular twist, one turn in 26 inches.
Springfield, U. S. Rifle, Breech Loader, Cal. 45. Rifling 3 plain
concentric grooves. Lands and grooves equal width. Uniform twist, one
turn in 22 inches, depth .005.
Frank Wesson’s Rifle, Breech Loader. Long and mid-range guns using long
slugs, even twist, one turn in 18 inches, grooves 6, lands and grooves
equal width. Short range guns, using slugs having short bearing, increase
twist commencing on 6 feet, and ending on 2 feet, 5 and 6 grooves, lands
and grooves of equal width.
Wesson’s Muzzle Loading Rifle. Barrel 2′ 8″ long. Rifling one turn in 3′
6″ 6 grooves; space between grooves equal to interior surface presenting
a dovetail appearance. Groves not so wide as spaces.
The Whitney Arms Co.’s Guns, Breech Loading, comprising the Whitney,
Kennedy, and Phœnix systems. Rifling 6 grooves, one turn in 22 inches.
Lands and grooves of equal width.
Marston’s Rifle (Toronto, Canada), Muzzle Loader, number of grooves 6,
lands and grooves equal width; regular twist, one turn in 30 inches;
depth of groove 15-thousandths inch, slightly freed at breech.
_Pistols._—Colt’s Army Pistol, Breech Loading Revolver, Cal. 45. Rifling
6 grooves, twist uniform, one turn in 16 inches; depth .005.
Schofield, Smith & Wesson Revolver for Army Use, Breech Loader. Bore,
.435. Number of grooves 5, uniform twist, one turn in 20 inches. Depth of
rifling .0075.
CHAPTER XLII.
DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING APART AND ASSEMBLING RIFLES, DOUBLE-BARRELLED SHOT
GUNS AND PISTOLS, OF THE MOST NOTED MAKERS IN THE UNITED STATES.
_The Ballard Rifle.—(Made by the Marlin Arms Co., New Haven, Conn.)_
_To Take Apart._—1, take the sight from the barrel; 2, take off the
stock by unscrewing butt-plate; and turning out the long tang screw; 3,
drop the lever and take out lever screw; take out the extractor then the
block; 4, unscrew the barrel from the frame and take the tang from the
frame; 5, take the screws from the lock and pry the plates apart.
_To Assemble._—Proceed in reverse order.
_The Burgess Repeating Rifle.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—1, receiver; 2, bottom tang; 3, lever; 4, breech-block; 5, top
lever; 6, ejector; 7, carrier-block; 8, bottom plate; 9, bottom plate
snap; 10, hammer; 11 mainspring; 12, hammer-screw; 13, side loading
spring cover as seen from the back; 14, trigger.
_To Take Apart._—1st, take out the bottom plate screw, and remove the
plate; 2d, take out the top cover screws and slide the cover back against
the hammer, having depressed the lever sufficiently to let it pass by,
then pull back the hammer as far as possible and take the cover out; 3d,
take out the carrier screws, there being one on each side of the upper
rear portion of the receiver, and the stop screw on the upper front left
hand side of the receiver, then the lever, breech-block, extractor and
earner can be taken out through the top.
_To Disengage the Lever from the Breech Block._—Take out, 1st, the firing
pin screw; 2d, the firing pin; 3d, the ejector from the side of the
breech-block; 4th, the large pin from either side. In assembling, replace
the pin in exactly the same position it was when taken out.
_To Assemble._—1st, place the lever, breech-block, extractor and carrier
in their proper position, relatively to one another, as they were when
taken out, with the projection on the breech-block inside, and under the
front part of the carrier. 2d. Replace the above parts taken together in
the receiver, passing the handle of the lever first through the top, put
in the carrier side screws and the stop screw. 3d. cock the hammer, slide
the top cover into place, the breech being left half way open, then put
in the screw; 4th, close the breach and screw the bottom plate to place.
_Burnside’s Breech Loading Rifle._—To clean the gun, unlatch the guard
and drop the chamber; press down the small spring bolt at the guard joint
with the finger nail, while the lever of the joint-bolt is turned out of
place and taken from the joint. To detach the movable breech-pin from the
chamber, press it back with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand;
hold the bolt in this position with the thumb nail of the right hand
inserted in the notch of the bolt, while with the fore finger of the same
hand, the breech-pin is pushed into the chamber, and the head or button
of the spring-bolt is turned from its place, when the breech-pin may be
removed. Every part of the arm, except the lock is now exposed to view.
Put together in reverse order of taking apart.
_The Evans Magazine Rifle.—(Made by the Evans Magazine Rifle Co.,
Mechanics Falls, Me.; Merwin, Hulbert & Co., agents, New York City.)_—To
load the magazine, introduce the cartridge through the opening in the
butt plate. Each complete movement of the lever forward carries the
cartridge to its chamber. Repeat the motion till the magazine is full.
To use as a single loader, drop the lever to right angle with the barrel
and insert the cartridge directly in the chamber.
The full motion of the lever forward discharges the empty shell, the
return places the loaded cartridge in position, when the arm is ready for
discharge.
_Semi-Hammerless._—The American Arms Company are now producing a gun
at a low price called the semi-hammerless single gun, for which the
manufacturers claim that it combines the advantages of a hammerless
without the danger of the self-cocking principle. To cock the gun press
down the little lever on the side. The lock-plate is easily removed to
get at and oil the lock. Its construction is such that no water or dirt
can penetrate to the lock.
_The Hotchkiss Magazine Gun.—(Made by Winchester Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—To remove the magazine cut off, turn the notched end to the
front; place the point of a screw-driver under the rear end and bear down
gently, slightly supporting the front end against the pressure with the
fingers of the left hand. To remove the breech-bolts press on the trigger
and at the same time unlock the bolt and withdraw it. N. B.—The bolt can
be removed in the following manner: unlock and draw back the bolt until
the cocking piece just clears the receiver; then, letting go the handle,
take hold of the cocking piece and turn it down to the right until the
projection on the bolt-head leaves the groove under the front end of
the locking-tube. The latter may then be drawn out at the rear, and the
head at the front of the receiver. To return the bolt, the head must be
inserted from the front and the part from the rear, unless the cut-off
be removed. To remove the magazine-spring and cartridge-follower, insert
the point of a screw-driver in the hole at the rear of the magazine tube,
and draw out the tube. The barrel cannot be removed until the magazine
has been taken out. Remove then the trigger spring screw and spring, the
cartridge stop pin and stop, the trigger pin and trigger using a punch
to drive out the pin. Remover the trigger catch pin and catch, using the
point of a screw-driver in the notched end of the pin to draw it out.
To dismount the breech-bolt, remove the bolt-head, which can be done by
holding the cocking-piece firmly in the left hand, and with the right
turn down the handles as in the act of locking the bolt; the head will
then slip off. Turn out the firing-pin screw; slip the bolt-head partly
on the projecting end of the firing-pin, and use it as a wrench to
unscrew the pin; the mainspring may then be removed. Remove the extractor
by tapping gently on its projecting end with a piece of wood.
To assemble, proceed in the reverse order.
_Howard’s Sporting Rifle, “The Thunderbolt.”_—To clean the lock, take out
the screw that attaches the back end of the yoke to the breech piece;
unscrew the barrel; then take the nut from the back end of the sliding
breech-pin, which with the mainspring and hammer, constitute the lock.
In using, if the operator does not wish to have the piece cocked, he has
only to hold the trigger back while closing the guard, and it will not be
cocked. To cock it from this position, he has only to open the guard a
short distance, and close it. If he wishes to load and fire rapidly, it
will cock itself. If in no haste, or does not wish it cocked, he has only
to hold back the trigger, while closing its guard.
_The Kennedy Magazine Gun.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—Directions for taking apart:
1. Take out the two side screws, on the left side of the receiver, that
are nearest together. 2. Remove the bottom plate and carrier block
through the bottom of the receiver. 3. Full cock the hammer and take out
the extractor screw from top cover, then depress the lever sufficiently
to let the cover pass over it, pull back the hammer as far as possible
and slide the cover out over it. 4. Remove the breech-block and lever
together through the top of the receiver.
To disengage the breech-block: 1. Take out the firing-pin screw. 2. The
firing pin. 3. The ejector from the side of the breech-block. 4. The
large pin from either side.
To assemble, put the parts together in reverse order from which they were
taken out.
_Marlin’s Magazine Rifle.—(Made by Marlin Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—Figure No. 1 shows the arm in a closed position. A, represents
the Lever; B, the Bolt; C, Extractor; D, the Carrier Block; E, the
Ejector; F, the Carrier Block Spring; G, the Hammer; H, the Trigger; I,
the Firing Pin.
To take the action apart: 1. Take out the lever pin screw, and drive out
the lever pin, allowing the lever to be removed. 2. Take out the tang
screw (this allows the stock to be removed), hammer screw, and front pin
that goes through trigger strap; now remove the trigger strap with lock
work attached. 3. The bolt can now be slipped out.
To assemble the action, put the parts into the receiver in reverse order
from that in which they were taken out.
_Maynard Rifle, Self-Priming Model.—(Made by Mass. Arms Co., Chicopee
Falls, Mass.)_—To detach the barrel: Loosen the lever at its rear end
and move it forward. There is a button that keeps the magazine closed;
turn this button downward and forward as far as it will go; then pull
it out as far as it will come; this will detach the lever from the
breech-piece, so that it will come partly out of it; unhook the barrel,
and the lever will pass quite out of the breech-piece. To attach the
barrel reverse the operation.
To remove the nipple: On the left side, opposite the nipple, is the screw
which fastens it; take out this screw; put a stick of hard wood in the
screw-hole; strike the stick a little and the nipple will be driven out.
To dissect the rifle for a thorough cleaning: There are four screws on
the under side of the gun, behind the hole where the lever is pivoted.
Take out the two farthest back, and the stock may then be drawn back so
as to separate it from the breech-piece.
To adjust the joint between the end of the barrel and the breech-piece:
There are two screws visible on the under side of the breech-piece,
forward of the lever. They are to adjust the joint to the thickness of
the flange of the cartridge. To do this: First, turn the screw nearest
the lever once round to the left; now raise the butt-end of the barrel,
put in a cartridge, and observe as you bring the butt-end down again
whether the joint is too close, so as to pinch the flange, or not close
enough to hold it firmly. The exact degree of tightness allows the lever
to work easily, but holds the barrel perfectly firm. This degree will be
found by turning the forward screw to the right or left. Having found
this degree, turn the rear screw to the right, tightly, and the joint is
adjusted.
_The Peabody-Martini Rifle.—(Made by Providence Tool Co., Providence, R.
I.)_—1. Butt Stock. 9. Stock Bolt. 10. Receiver, or Body. 11. Trigger
Spring. 12. Screw for Locking Bolt Spring and Trigger Spring. 14. Stop
Nut. 15. Block Axis Pin. 16. Striker, or Firing Pin. 19. Block. 25.
Tumbler. 26. Indicator. 27. Block Lever. 28. Extractor. 29. Tumbler Rest.
30. Tumbler Rest Axis Screw. 31. Extractor Axis Screw. 32. Guard. 33.
Trigger. 34. Trigger Axis Screw. 35. Swivel. 36. Swivel Axis Screw. 46.
Barrel. 47. Fore, or Tip-Stock. 48. Cleaning Rod.
To dismount body or receiver: Turn keeper-screw so the groove in head
will allow block axis pin to drop out; open the breech, and with the
thumb press with force oil front end of block, and, at the same time,
raise the lever; turn the keeper-screw so as to allow the tumbler axis to
be pushed out. This also relieves the tumbler. Take out extractor axis
screw.
To assemble body: Put lever back to its place in assembled guard and
insert both in the body. Drop in extractor and turn in extractor axis
screw. Put tumbler in place and put in tumbler axis, point upright and
secure keeper screw. With the right hand raise the lever so as to touch
the lever catch, then, with the first finger, pull the trigger back, and
with the thumb push the trigger axis forward, and drop in the assembled
block, the front end entering first. Apply a little force to back end of
block with the left hand, moving the lever a little at the same time with
the right hand, and the block will drop into place. Insert block axis pin
and secure it with the keeper screw.
To dismount guard: Take out tumbler rest axis screw, relieving tumbler
rest. Take out trigger spring screw, relieving trigger spring and locking
bolt spring. Take out trigger axis screw, relieving trigger. Take out
locking bolt screw, if found necessary.
To assemble guard: Hold trigger in place and turn in trigger axis screw.
Restore locking bolt and thumb piece to place and turn in screw. Restore
locking bolt spring and trigger spring and turn in trigger spring screw.
Insert tumbler rest and turn in tumbler rest axis screw. The parts are
now ready to be attached to the body, or receiver.
To dismount block: Turn keeper screw on end of block and take out stop
nut. The firing pin and coil spring will then drop out.
To assemble block: Restore firing pin and coil spring. Turn in stop nut,
and turn keeper screw to secure it.
The firing pin has a rectangular slot near one end. This slot is longer
on one side than on the other. The long side should be so placed as to
admit end of the tumbler freely.
_The Phœnix Breech-Loader.—(Made by Whitney Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—No special directions are necessary for dismounting and
assembling the Phœnix system. The breech-block is taken out by loosening
the screw that holds the pin, and then taking out the pin. After the
breech-block has been removed let the hammer down as far as it will go,
which relieves it from the pressure of the main spring, and it can then
be easily removed by taking out the screw which holds it.
_The Remington Breech-Loading Rifle.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons, Ilion,
N. Y.)_—Explanation of parts and technical names: AA. Receiver. B. Breech
Piece. C. Hammer. D. Locking Lever. a. Main Spring. bb. Pins. c. Trigger.
d. Lever Spring. e. Trigger Spring. f. Firing Pin. g. Extractor.
To remove the breech piece and hammer: Loosen the button screw until the
button can be removed from the heads of the breech and hammer pins. Cock
the hammer, push out the breech pin, take out the breech piece, let down
the hammer as far as it will go (which leaves the main spring resting
upon a stationary pin, and obviates the necessity of using a main spring
vise in readjusting the parts). Remove the hammer pin and take out the
hammer.
To replace the hammer and breech piece: Lay the arm down on the right
side, press upon the trigger at the same time replacing the hammer with
the thumb piece forward and downward, until the hole in the hammer and
receiver correspond. Replace the hammer pin, cock the hammer, replace
the breech piece, insert breech pin in receiver, and by pressing on the
pin at the same time pressing down the breech piece and working it back
and forth slightly the pin will enter. Adjust the button and tighten the
button screw.
To take the entire arm apart: Take out the extractor screw, open the
breech, remove the extractor, take out the breech piece and hammer, as
described. In military arms remove the wiping rod by unscrewing the same,
remove the bands, separate the tip stock from the barrel at the muzzle,
until it is liberated from the stud upon the under side of the barrel,
when it maybe withdrawn from the receiver; take out the tang screw and
remove the butt stock.
To detach the guard strap: Take out the two side screws which pass
through the guard strap, always removing the rear screw first. Unscrew
the barrel from the receiver, taking care that the extractor has been
removed before unscrewing the barrel.
To assemble the arm: Screw the barrel into the receiver, until the mark
on the top of the barrel and receiver correspond. Replace the extractor
and screw, place the forward end of the guard strap in the receiver,
putting in the screw. See that the main spring is in the center of the
guard strap, press the rear end in until the screw will enter. Replace
the hammer and breech piece, as previously described. Replace butt stock
and tip. In putting on the bands of military guns, see that the letters
upon them are upon the same side with the band springs. Replace the
wiping rod by screwing it in.
The locking lever, attached to the guard strap, serves a double purpose:
one end locking the sear, or trigger, when the breech is open to receive
the cartridge, which effectually prevents accidental discharge, the other
end working in a groove on the under side of the breech piece, serving to
close the breech piece and keep it closed in the act of firing.
_The Remington Magazine Gun; Keene’s patent.—(Made by E. Remington &
Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)_—To remove the breech, turn the large screw at the
right hand side of the stock below the hammer to the right until the
carrier (which should be in its lower position at the time) drops free
of the bolt and allows it to be withdrawn. N. B. The screw referred to
is cut with a left hand thread. To separate the rear end of the bolt and
firing pin from the front end, bend back the hammer and twist it around
to the right until the shoulder on front end of rear cap slides back
in the groove in breech bolt. To reassemble it reverse the operation
described. To take out the extractor, press back the extractor bolt,
using the hooked end of the screw-driver for this purpose, thus releasing
the rear end of the extractor, which may then be lifted out of its seat.
Care should be taken not to let the extractor be thrown out by the spring
when released. To remove the stock, take off the bands; take out the
screw at the end of the metal tip, and remove the tip-stock by slipping
it forward over the magazine tube. Unscrew the magazine tube, take out
the tang screw, remove the guard bow, and take off the butt stock. The
barrel should never be unscrewed except with proper appliances to avoid
injuring the receiver.
To assemble the parts, reverse the operations described, taking care in
screwing in the magazine tube that the follower does not catch against
the cut-off and interfere with replacing the tube.
_Remington No. 3 Rifle.—(Hepburn’s Patent, made by E. Remington and Sons,
Ilion, N. Y.)_—Remove the upper screw on the left hand side, and the
breech block may be taken out. To take out the hammer, remove the upper
screw and slip the hammer forward into the breech block hole. To take
out the extractor, remove the forward screw on left hand side. The lever
which operates the breech block passes through the rocker sleeve with a
square stud and is held in place by a set screw directly under the fore
stock, which must be removed if it is ever desired to take off the lever.
If necessary to remove the guard it can be done by taking off the butt
stock and taking out the side screws in the usual way. The barrel should
not be unscrewed from the frame except with proper appliances. When
necessary to unscrew the frame, the extractor should be taken out and the
breech block and guard put back in place, before putting on the wrench.
_Sharp’s Rifle, (old model using paper or linen cartridge, also model of
1874 using metallic cartridge; made by Sharp’s Rifle Co., Bridgeport,
Conn.)_—To take the arm apart: Relieve the lever key from pressure of
spring by throwing down the lever guard, the key can then be taken out
and the slide with lever guard attached, removed.
To replace, put slide in place, leaving guard down, then insert lever
key, turning the key to place.
To take off the lock, give four or five turns to the side screws; tap
their heads gently with the handle of the screw-driver to start the lock
from its bed, the side screws can then be taken out and the lock removed.
To replace the lock, press it firmly into its bed, before entering the
screws and then turn them up close.
_Sharp’s Rifle, (Borchardt’s Patent model of 1878; made by Sharp’s Rifle
Co., Bridgeport, Conn.)_—Plate 3—AAA, receiver; BB, slide; CC, sear; D,
firing bolt; E, cam; F, extractor; G, connection; H, trigger; K, safety
catch; L, safety lever; MM, lever; NN, mainspring; O, lever spring; P,
barrel stud; R, ramrod stop, military; S, ramrod, military; T, swivel,
military; UU, barrel; W, forearm; W, link; X, butt-stock bolt; 1, lever
pin; 2, lever screw.
To take the arm apart: Loosen the rear screw under the barrel, and this
will relieve the pressure of the lever spring. Cock the gun by opening
and closing. Bring down the guard lever half way. Take out the lever pin
on which the lever rotates. This pin is held in place by a small screw
directly above it. Turn this screw to the left until the circular cut
in its side is on a line with the lever pin, and the latter can then be
removed. Pull lever out of the joint. Replace lever pin so as to hold
extractor in place. Remove screw which connects lever and link, through
hole in left side of link. Take out lever. Push slide up and out, and
then take out extractor.
To strip the slide, uncock it and push out sear pin and remove sear. Take
out pin at rear end of slide. Take out slide plug and mainspring. Drive
cross pin out of firing bolt and remove same. Remove link by taking last
screw out of slide. To remove trigger, safety and safety lever, drive out
trigger pin and safety pin above it. Pull back safety catch and pull out
trigger. Push forward safety catch as far as it will go, and it will drop
out, together with the safety lever above it.
To assemble, replace safety catch, safety lever and trigger. Assemble
slide and cock it. Push safety catch into notch of trigger. Put in
extractor and lever pin. Insert slide and push it down, keeping extractor
close to its place, in base of barrel. Attach lever. Take out lever pin,
bring lever into the joint, replace the pin, and secure it by giving
small screw above it half a turn to the right. Tighten the screw which
was loosened under the barrel.
Never use a hammer or other force either in taking apart or assembling
this system. If the parts are in proper position, everything will go into
place easily.
_The U. S. Muzzle Loading Rifle and Musket._—To take apart: Draw the
ramrod; turn out the tang screw; put the hammer at half cock; partially
unscrew the side screw, and with a light tap on the head of each screw
with the handle of the screw-driver or a light wood mallet, loosen
the lock from its bed in the stock, then turn out the side screws and
remove the lock with the left hand. Remove the side screws and take off
the bands. Take out the barrel by turning the gun horizontally, barrel
downward, holding the barrel loosely with the left hand below the rear
sight, the right hand grasping the stock by the small; if it does not
leave the stock, tap the muzzle on the top side against the work bench
which will effect loosening it at the breech.
To assemble, put together in the inverse order of taking apart. Squeeze
the barrel in place with the hand; give the butt of the stock a gentle
tap on the floor to settle the breech end of the barrel against the head
of the stock.
_Springfield Breech Loading Rifle (made at Springfield, Mass. by U. S.
Government; adopted by U. S. Government.)_—A, Bottom of Receiver; B,
Barrel; C, Breech Screw; E, Hinge Pin; F, Cam Lock; G, Cam Latch Spring;
H, Firing Pin; I, Firing Pin Spring; J, Extractor; K, Ejector Spring and
Spindle; L, ejector Stud; M, Lug of Extractor.
To dismount the breech loading parts: 1. Remove the hinge pin by pressing
on its point with a small-sized punch until the end carrying the arm
projects sufficiently to enable it to be grasped and removed by the
fingers. 2. Remove the breech block carefully, so as not to allow the
extractor and ejector spring to fall out. 3. Remove the extractor and
ejector spring. 4. Remove the cam latch by unscrewing the breech block
cap screw, and loosen the cap with the point of a screw-driver. 5.
Remove the cam latch spring. 6. Turn out the firing pin screw, then take
out the firing pin and spring from the breech block.
To assemble: 1. Insert the firing pin screw in the breech block, then
the firing pin, and then replace the firing pin screw. 2. Insert the cam
latch spring in its place. 3. Replace the cam latch and the breech block
cap; turn the cap screw well down. 4. Insert the ejector spring in its
place. 5. Replace the extractor in such a position in the breech block
that the small recess in the back of the extractor will be in a position
to be presented to the point of the ejector spring spindle. 6. Insert the
breech block. After seeing that the point of the spindle has entered the
recess in the back of the extractor, strike the breech block over the
thumb piece and head of the firing pin, a smart blow with the palm of the
hand, forwards and downwards, this will cause it to enter sufficiently to
hold it in place. Then press it into position by grasping the block and
receiver with the fingers and thumb, the thumb uppermost, and squeeze it
home. 7. Insert the hinge pin by striking it a sharp blow with the palm
of the hand. See that the stud in the arm enters the recess cut for it on
the side of the receiver.
Should the thumb piece interfere with the head of the hammer in raising
the breech block, it is probable that either the tumbler or sear screw is
too loose or broken.
_Whitney Breech Loading Gun (made by Whitney Arms Company, New Haven,
Conn.)_—To take apart: 1. Give the screw in the side of the frame or
receiver (that holds the two fulcrum pins) a few turns to release the
flanges or heads of the two pins, then turn them away from the screw a
little. 2. Place the hammer on the half-cock, open the breech half way,
and press the locking shoulder back with the screw-driver until it is
held by the catch on the locking lever made for the purpose. 3. Knock
out the pin that holds the breech block, and take out the breech block,
lever and cartridge extractor at the same time. 4. Bring the hammer to
full-cock, so as to release the locking shoulder, and then uncock it,
pressing it forward so as to relieve the tension of the springs; knock
out the large pin, and take out the hammer and locking shoulder together.
To assemble: 1. Draw back the trigger to its usual place and insert the
hammer and locking shoulder (placed together, as when taken out) into the
receiver, pressing them forward so as to relieve them from the tension
of their springs; then insert the hammer pin, half-cock the hammer, and
press back the locking shoulder until it is held by the catch on the
locking lever. 2. Insert the lever, breech block and cartridge extractor
placed together, put in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of the
two pins to their places against the binding screw, and turn it up to its
place. 3. Open the breech in the usual way, or simply bring the hammer
to full cock, when the locking shoulder will be released and the piece
ready to operate. The ramrod is held in place by being screwed into the
steel on the lower side of the barrel.
_Whitney New System Breech Loading Gun (made by Whitney Arms Company, New
Haven, Conn.)_—1, Receiver or Frame; 2, Bottom Tang; 3, Barrel; 4, Breech
Block; 5, Hammer; 6, Breech Block Fulcrum Pin; 7, Hammer Fulcrum Pin; 8,
Extractor; 9, Mainspring; 10, Trigger; 11, Stud.
To take apart the lock work: 1. Give the screw in the side of the frame
or receiver (that holds the two large fulcrum pins) a few turns to
release the flanges or heads of the two pins, then turn them away from
the screw a little. 2. Place the hammer on the full cock, open the breech
half way, knock out the pin that holds the breech block and the extractor
screw in the side of the receiver, then take out the breech block and
cartridge extractor at the same time. 3. Uncock the hammer, pressing it
forward so as to relieve the tension of the spring; knock out the large
pin and take out the hammer.
To assemble the lock work: 1. Draw back the trigger to its usual place,
and insert the hammer into the receiver, pressing it forward so as to
relieve it from the tension of the spring; then insert the hammer pin
and cock the hammer. 2. Insert the breech block and cartridge extractor,
placed together, put in the fulcrum pin, turn the heads or flanges of the
two pins to their places against the binding screw, and turn it up to its
place; then put in the extractor screw.
_Winchester Magazine Gun.—(Made by Winchester Arms Co., New Haven,
Conn.)_—To take apart:
To take out the barrel: Take out the two tip screws, the magazine ring
pin, pull out the magazine tube, and take off the forearm; then, before
unscrewing the barrel from the frame, the breech pin must be thrown back
by moving the finger-lever forward, otherwise the attempt to unscrew it
will break the spring catch that withdraws the cartridge, and ruin the
breech-pin.
To remove the breech pin model of 1866: After removing the side plates
and links, the spring-catch must be next taken out, which is done by
moving the breech-pin back so that the pin that holds the spring catch
will be in a line with a corresponding hole through the frame; then with
a small steel wire punch out the pin, then move the breech-pin forward
and take out the spring catch; the piston can then be unscrewed with
pliers or hand vise, first setting the hammer at full cock, or taking it
out.
In models of 1873 and 1876: After removing the side plates and links,
take out the link pin and retractor; the piston can then be pulled out
with the fingers, first removing the hammer or setting it at full cock.
Should the main spring require strengthening it can be done by turning
up the strain-screw, which will be found directly under it, on the under
side of the frame.
_Remington’s Rifle Cane.—(Made by E. Remington & Sons Ilion, N.
Y.)_—Directions for using: To load, unscrew the handle or breech from the
body of the cane; insert the cartridge and replace the handle, drawing
back the handle will cock the piece ready for firing, when pressing
on the trigger-knob underneath will discharge it. Do not press on the
trigger-knob when the piece is being cocked.
The lock-case or breech may be closed by a slight pressure upon the
spring sight.
For hunting or target practice, remove the tip or ferule at the muzzle.
If it is required to use the arm suddenly, as for self-defense, it is not
necessary to remove the tip.
To remove the lock-case, remove the ferule under the handle by driving it
down, take out the pin under the ferule, draw out the handle, draw the
cane to full cock and press down and back the trigger, unscrew the lock
from the barrel and push the cock out at the top end of the case.
In replacing the lock be careful to get the slot on a line with the guide
inside of the case, and press down the sight spring.
_Billings’ Breech Loading Shot Gun.—(Made by Billings & Spencer,
Hartford, Conn.)_—This arm is provided with a backward and upward moving
breech block in the rear of the cartridge, the breech block turning
backward upon the hinge, which is a more natural motion than a forward
turn.
To open the breech for loading, half cock the piece; draw the locking
bolt with small handle on right side, and pull towards you; this retracts
the firing pin, also extracts the shell automatically at the same time.
_The Fox Breech Loading Shot Gun.—(Made by American Arms Co., Boston,
Mass.)_—To take apart: To detach the barrels, first open the gun as if
for loading, which is done by pressing forward the thumb-piece on the top
of the stock; then with the left thumb at a point about two inches from
the end of the barrels, press the barrels towards the right and the gun
is in position to load. Next turn the gun over in the right hand, holding
it by the small of the stock, the end of the stock under the elbow
supporting the weight of the gun; with the left thumb press the extractor
home, and, with the thumb placed on the extractor spring, as close up to
the fore end as convenient, press down the extractor firmly, and gently
swinging the stock to the right until the detachment is obtained.
To attach the barrels again, grasp the barrels with the plate up, so that
the large screw at the head of the plate comes about at the center of
the hand; be sure that the extractor is home. Place the opening for the
screw which is in the breech-plate, over the screw, with the stock at an
angle of about forty-five degrees with the barrels, at the same time put
the left thumb on the end of the fore end, holding it firmly and flat on
the plate, the stock-plate covering the guide-pin next the screw on the
barrels, but not the pin on the extractor; gently move the stock until
the two plates come into perfect contact, when the barrel will swing into
position.
To remove the extractor, detach the barrels from the stock, lay them on
a table with the plate up and muzzle from gun; pull out the extractor as
far as it will come readily, then turn it to the _left_ until the short
arm strikes end of the barrels; now draw it straight out, meanwhile
holding a finger over the extractor button to prevent its springing out
and getting lost, when the button and locking stud will fall out of their
own weight.
To replace the extractor, lay the extractor button in its cavity and
slide the long shank of the extractor through it, then place the locking
stud in position, holding it snug against the rear end of its seat, run
the extractor into it, solid home, and turn to the _right_ till the short
arm is opposite its hole, when push straight in.
To take out firing pins, remove the screw holding them, which will be
found in the breech-piece at the rear of the scroll-fence.
_The Lefever Hammerless Gun.—(Made by Daniel Lefever, Syracuse, N.
Y.)_—Locks are rebounding.
To take apart: To take off the lock, see that both hammers are down;
take out lever-screw; remove lever; turn out lock plate screw and drive
off right hand lock by tapping on head of lock plate screw; take out the
screw and insert in sear hole, and drive off left hand plate.
To take out the hammers, turn _in_ the screws in bottom of the frame
until the mainspring will allow the hammer to drop back far enough to
allow its being lifted out of the frame. In putting back, be careful to
press the projection on the lever on top of the spring that holds it, up
to place, before putting the lever-screw in.
_Parker Double-barreled Breech-loading Shot Gun. (Made by Parker
Brothers, Meriden, Conn.)_—1. Finger piece. 2. Guard. 3. Lifter. 4.
Locking bolt screws. 5. Locking bolt. 6. Barrel lug. 7. Trip. 8. Trip
spring. 11. Extractor. 13. Joint Roll. The finger piece is solid and a
part of lifter.
Pressing up the finger piece in front of guard raises the lifter, and its
beveled side coming in contact with the locking bolt screw, acts as a
wedge to draw the locking bolt from the mortise in the lug, and releases
the barrels so that they tilt upward ready to receive the cartridges.
When the bolt is back to the position shown in Fig. 2, the small hole
which is drilled in the under side of the bolt comes directly over the
trip, which, by the assistance of the trip spring, is made to enter the
hole in the bolt and thereby hold it in position.
For cleaning, it can be very easily removed by taking off the locks and
removing the locking bolt screw from the end of the locking bolt, then
press down on the trip, which will allow the lifter to be withdrawn
without removing either stock, guard or trigger-plate.
To replace the plunger: Withdraw the cone with a common screw-driver, by
pressing it against the plunger until the screw-driver enters the slot.
After removing the plunger and spring, be careful to replace them with
spring at side of plunger.
_Remington Double-barreled Breech-loading Shot Gun. (Made by E.
Remington & Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)_—A, thumb piece; B, lever, engaging
locking bolt; C, pivot of lever B; D, locking point; H, joint check; K,
pivot pin; L, joint check screw, limiting motion of barrels; M, hammer
lifter; N, extractor; O, wire, a shoulder of which rests against P; P,
shoulder of dog engaging locking bolt; S, snap action spring.
To take apart: To remove the barrels, take off the tip-stock, full cock
both hammers and press the thumb-piece (between the hammers, and used
for unlocking the barrels for loading) upward as far as it will go. The
barrels can thus be detached.
In Fig. 3, the locking bolt is drawn as far as the shoulder P will allow
it to move. This shoulder P is formed on one side of a little dog, in the
other side of which is a corresponding shoulder, resting against the wire
O. So long as the tip-stock is in place this dog cannot yield or permit
the locking-bolt to be drawn far enough to allow the joint-check to come
out of the mortise in the frame; but when the tip-stock is removed, the
wire O can slip part way out, as in Fig. 4, allowing the shoulder P
to move back, so that the locking-bolt can be drawn back clear of the
joint-check—thus releasing the barrels.
_The Roper Four-shooting Shot-gun and Rifle. (Made by the Billings &
Spencer Co., Hartford, Conn.)_—A, frame; B, receiver; B¹, hinged lid of
receiver; C, hammer; D, plunger; D¹, head of plunger; E, plunger link; F,
cartridges; G, carrier in which shells are placed; H, lever to revolve
carrier; I, mainspring; J, sear; _a_, ratchet; _b_, stirrup; _c_, link
connecting hammer with mainspring; _d_, pin of lever H; _e_, pivot of
carrier G; _f_, firing pin; _h_, elastic tail of lever H.
To take apart: To take the gun apart, _turn in_ the set screw on under
side of cylinder forward of the guard plate screw, until it comes to a
stop. Then bring the hammer to cock notch and unscrew the cylinder from
breech. N. B.—This set screw turns _in_ to take the gun apart, and turns
_out_ to fasten the cylinder.
In putting the gun together, screw up the breech until the set screw can
be replaced. This screw should be turned sufficiently tight to prevent
any looseness of the breech.
To take off the stock and expose the lock, take out the long screw that
runs through the small, rear end of receiver on top, and the screw in the
guard plate which fastens it to the receiver underneath in front. Then
remove the stock, and the working parts are exposed and can be readily
cleaned and oiled. The firing pin should be detached occasionally,
cleaned and oiled, as its easy working insures certain fire. To do this,
take out the small screw in the top of the hammer and remove the piston
entirely from the receiver, and the piston and firing pin are readily
separated. In replacing the piston, care should be taken to put it in
right side up, the retractor spring being at the bottom. Never attempt
to take out the screw which fastens the link to the piston, until the
firing pin is detached.
_Colt’s Revolver For Army Use, Cal. 45.—(Made by the Colt Pat. Fire
Arms Co., Hartford, Conn.)_—A, barrel; B, Frame; B¹, recoil plate, C,
cylinder; DD, firing pan; D¹, center pin bushing; E, guard; F, back
strap; G, hammer; H, main spring; I, hammer roll and rivet; J, hammer
screw; K, hammer cam; L, hand and hand spring; M, bolt and screw; N,
trigger and screw; O, hammer notches. P, firing pin and rivet; Q, ejector
rod and spring; Q¹, ejector tube; R, ejector head; S, ejector tube screw;
T, short guard screw; U, seat and bolt spring (combined) and screw. V,
back strap screw; W, main spring screw; X, front sight; Y, center pin
catch screw.
To take apart: To dismount the pistol, half-cock the hammer, loosen the
centre pin catch screw; draw out the centre pin, open the gate, and the
cylinder can then be withdrawn. To remove the ejector, turn out the
ejector tube screw, then push the front end away from the barrel and
pull it towards the muzzle. The stock can be removed by turning out the
two screws just behind the hammer, and that at the bottom of the strap.
Remove the main spring and trigger guard; the parts of the lock can then
be readily separated. The cylinder bushing should then be pushed out for
cleaning. To remove the gate, turn out a screw in the lower side of the
frame (hidden by the trigger guard), then the gate spring and catch can
be withdrawn, and the gate can be pushed out.
To assemble the pistol, follow the directions for dismounting in reverse
order. The mainspring is most conveniently mounted by turning in the
screw part way, then swinging around the front end of the main spring
until it bears against the under side of the friction roll. The cylinder
bushing should be frequently removed for cleaning.
_North’s Patent Revolving Pistol._—To take the pistol apart, take out
the screw in the forward end of the lock and barrel frame, which runs
through the base-pin, then draw back the operating lever so as to bring
the hammer to the half-cock, turn the cylinder round by hand until the
mortise in the back end of the cylinder is found, which mortise connects
the cylinder with the recoil shield; then unlock the rammer and draw it
and the base-pin out; the cylinder is then left free to be taken out.
When the cylinder is taken out be careful not to leave the spiral spring
which lays in a recess made in the front end of the cylinder, and in
putting together be careful to replace this spring.
To take the lock apart, first take out the main and lever springs which
are both held by one screw; then take out the hammer, next the small
screw connecting the lever with the link of the toggle-joint (this screw
is in the lever on the outside of the pistol just back of the trigger).
Next bend up the toggle-joint and take out the lever and trigger, which
are both held by one screw; then take out the toggle-joint and revolving
lever, which are connected together by two screws.
To put the lock together, first put in the toggle-joint, then the main
and lever springs, next the hammer, then the lever and trigger; next
screw the revolving lever to the toggle-joint.
To put the cylinder in its place, first put the recoil shield (the piece
with ratchets made for turning the breech) into its place and draw back
the operating lever so that the hammer will come to full cock, at the
same time pressing back the recoil shield as far as it will go, still
holding back the operating lever; see that the spiral spring is in place
in front of the cylinder, put the cylinder in place, let the projecting
pin on the recoil shield come into the mortise in back end of cylinder;
then put base-pin and rammer to place and turn in the screw which holds
it.
_The Remington Revolver (Smoot’s Patent, made by E. Remington & Sons,
Ilion, N. Y.)_—To load: Half-cock the hammer; then turn the cylinder
around so as to bring the chambers in line with the opening in the recoil
shield, in which position the cartridges can be inserted, or the empty
shells extracted by means of the rammer on the side of the barrel.
To remove the cylinder: Half-cock the hammer, then slide forward the stud
in front of the cylinder through which the extractor rammer operates. The
cylinder is replaced in the same way, but it is generally necessary to
turn it in its seat to get the pawl out of the way before the centre pin
will enter the hole in the cylinder.
To take the arm apart for cleaning: Remove the cylinder; then take out
the two screws for holding the guard to the frame. When the guard is
taken off, all the lock work is accessible for cleaning.
In order to keep a revolver in good condition, the cylinder should be
taken out and oiled before putting it away after firing. The centre pin
should be removed and cleaned to prevent it from rusting and impeding the
rotation of the cylinder.
_The Remington Magazine Pistol.—(Rider’s Patent. Made by E. Remington
& Sons, Ilion, N. Y.)_—To load: Draw the tube from the magazine; hold
the pistol barrel upright; drop the cartridge, rim downwards, into the
magazine; when full, insert the feeding tube in the magazine and lock
in place by turning the caps and engaging catch in the notch under the
barrel.
To fire: Grasp the pistol in the usual manner, press the thumb upon
the breech-block, carrying the block downward until released from the
recoil shoulder; then draw the block and hammer backward until the
hammer engages in the cock notch; then let the block forward by an easy
motion and the cartridge will be carried into the chamber; the pistol
will remain at full cock and is discharged by pulling the trigger. In
case the pistol should be loaded, and cocked, and not needed for use,
the cartridge in the chamber may be returned to the magazine by simply
drawing back the breech and pressing the carrier downward until the
cartridge is in position to enter the magazine, then letting the block
forward. This is to insure safety in carrying. The principle of this arm
is such that the same motion cocks the hammer and carries the charge from
the magazine to the chamber.
_Schofield, Smith & Wesson Revolver, cal. 45.—(Made by Smith & Wesson,
Springfield, Mass.)_—To dismount the pistol: The only part of the pistol
which will ordinarily require removal is the cylinder, which can be taken
out as follows: Turn the cylinder catch just 180 deg., as indicated by
the notch on its head; open the pistol; press up the head of the catch
until it clears the cylinder; draw out the cylinder; replace it in
inverse order.
To remove the cylinder and ejector of the pocket pistols, open the pistol
until the piston protrudes half way, raise the barrel catch and turn the
cylinder _two_ turns to the _left_.
To replace the cylinder and ejector, open the pistol to its full
capacity, raise the barrel catch, _press_ the cylinder forward upon the
base pin and give it _two_ turns to the _right_.
_The Automatic (Merwin, Hulbert & Co.)_ is so simple in its arrangements
as to need no directions for assembling or taking apart.
FINIS.
*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The gunsmith's manual : A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade" ***
Copyright 2023 LibraryBlog. All rights reserved.