Title: Soissons Before and During the War
Author: Cie, Michelin &
Language: English
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MICHELIN ILLUSTRATED GUIDES TO THE BATTLEFIELDS (1914–1918)

SOISSONS

BEFORE AND DURING THE WAR

[Illustration]

MICHELIN & C^{ie}—CLERMONT-FERRAND MICHELIN TYRE C^o L^{td}—81, Fulham
Road, LONDON, S.W. MICHELIN TIRE C^o—MILLTOWN, N.J., U.S.A.


[Illustration]

Hotels and Motor-Agents

at SOISSONS

Information extracted from the MICHELIN GUIDE (1919)[A]


Key to Arbitrary Signs

  [Hotel Symbols]   Comfortable hotels, with modern, or modernised
                    installation.
   [Hotel Symbol]   Well-managed hotels.
             [CC]   Central Heating.
              [L]   Electric Light.
              [B]   Bath-room. [WC] Modern W. C’s.
                    Ⓣ 1-09 Telephone Number.
        Shed [30]   Accommodation for automobiles,
                    and the number
     Shelter [20]   of cars which can be
                    put up.
  _COMPRESSED AIR_  Depôt for ‘bouteilles
                    d’air Michelin’
                    for inflation of tyres.
   [Wrench Symbol]  Repair shop. _Agt_ Manufacturer’s agent.
              [20]  Garage and number of cars it will hold.
               [U]  Inspection pit. [E] Petrol (gasoline) can be
                    obtained here.
             [E´´]  Accumulators can be recharged here.


HOTELS

   [Hotel Symbols]  de la Croix d’Or, _25–27, rue Saint-Christophe_,
                    [CC] [L] [B] [WC] Shelter [20] [U] Ⓣ 1–09.

    [Hotel Symbol]  du Lion Rouge, _1, rue de la Gare_ and _2, rue des
                    Charlins_
                    (_near place de la République_), [CC] [L] [B] [WC]
                    Shed [30] [U].


MOTOR-AGENTS

   [Wrench Symbol]  STOCK MICHELIN (_COMPRESSED AIR_) =Auto-Garage
                    Soissonnais= (=L. Renée=), _11, rue des Feuillants.
                    Agt for_: de Dion,
                    Renault, Philos, [20] [U] [E] Ⓣ 70.

  — STOCK MICHELIN (_COMPRESSED AIR_) =Papot=, _96, boulevard
                    Jeanne-d’Arc. Agt for_: Peugeot, Berliet, Brasier.
                    [10] [U] [E] [E´´] Ⓣ 4–14.

  — =Ch. L. Beck=, Engineer (=Garage Moderne=), _55, avenue de la Gare_.
                   [80] [U] [E][E´´].

  — =Faivre=, _    7, rue du Collège_ and _8, rue du Général-Pille. Agt
                   for_: Peugeot, [25] [E][E´´].

_The above information dates from March 1st. 1919, and may no longer
be exact when it meets the reader’s eye. Tourists are therefore
recommended to consult the latest edition of the “Michelin Guide to
France” (English or French), before setting out on the tour described
in this volume._

=THE MICHELIN TOURING OFFICES at=: _99, Boulevard Pereire, PARIS_
and _81, Fulham Road, Chelsea, LONDON, S. W. 3._, will be pleased to
furnish motorists with advice and information, free of charge.

== Special itineraries free, on request. ==



[Illustration]

You don’t know what a =Good Road Map= is, if you haven’t used the
=Michelin Map=

SCALE: 1: 200.000

(3·15 miles to the inch).

On sale at Michelin stockists and booksellers.

The tourist finds his way about easily =in town=, if he has a plan
giving the names of the streets.

He gets about with the same ease and certainty =on the road=, if he
has a =Michelin map=, because it gives all the road numbers on the
milestones and road-signs.



[Illustration]

=The “Michelin Wheel”=

BEST of all detachable wheels because the least complicated

_Elegant_

It embellishes even the finest coachwork.

_Simple_

It is detachable at the hub and fixed by six bolts only.

_Strong_

The only wheel which held out on all fronts during the War.

_Practical_

Can be replaced in 3 minutes by =anybody= and cleaned still quicker.

It prolongs the life of tyres by cooling them.

=AND THE CHEAPEST=



[Illustration]

IN MEMORY OF THE MICHELIN WORKMEN AND EMPLOYEES WHO DIED GLORIOUSLY FOR
THEIR COUNTRY

SOISSONS

BEFORE AND DURING THE WAR

PUBLISHED BY MICHELIN & C^{ie}, CLERMONT-FERRAND (France).

Copyright 1919 by Michelin & C^{ie}.

_All rights of translation, adaptation or reproduction (in part or
whole) reserved in all countries._



SOISSONS

ORIGIN AND CHIEF HISTORICAL EVENTS


Soissons derives its name from the _Suessiones_, a Belgian tribe who
inhabited that part of the country during the Gallic period. At that
time the City, then known as _Noviodunum_, was situated about two and
a half miles north-west of the Aisne on the Pommiers Plateau. After
Cæsar’s conquest of the country, the city was rebuilt on the banks of
the Aisne, under the name of _Augusta Suessionum_. Of the Gallo-Roman
epoch, only a small portion of the city ramparts (_p. _32) remains,
but excavations have brought to light the site of a large theatre (_p.
_51), and at the Mail, the foundations of what were luxurious villas.
The greater part of the objects unearthed are in the Museum (_p. _41),
with the exception of the famous group «Le Niobide et son Pédagogue»,
now in the Louvre.

Christianity was first preached in Soissons at the end of the 3rd
century, by two shoemakers, the brothers Crispin and Crispinian, who
suffered martyrdom there.

Soissons played an important part throughout the whole of the Frankish
Monarchy. It was at its gates that in 486, Clovis won a decisive
victory over the last Roman Count, _Syagrius_, thus causing the
downfall of Roman domination in Gaul. It was after this victory that
the famous episode of the Soissons Vase occurred.

The Frankish King lived for a long time in the city, and at his death
in 511, Soissons became the capital of the kingdom of one of his sons,
_Clotaire I_, who ultimately became sole king of the Franks. Later,
Soissons once more became a separate kingdom under _Chilperic_, and
again under _Clotaire II_ (561–613). During this period, the rivalry
of _Brunehaut_ and _Frédégonde_ gave rise to sanguinary episodes in
Soissons and the surrounding country.

In the 8th century, Soissons witnessed the fall of the Merovingian
dynasty. In 752, _Pépin-le-Bref_ was proclaimed King by an assembly of
nobles in the monastery of Saint-Médard (_p. _61).

In the same abbey, in 833, the emperor _Louis-le-Débonnaire_, was
deposed and imprisoned by his rebel sons, after they had forced him to
make a public confession in the church of the monastery.

In 923, under the walls of Soissons, _Charles-le-Simple_ fought a
battle with his rival _Robert_, Duke of the Franks. In this battle,
Charles was taken prisoner and lost his throne, which passed to the
powerful House of France, whence sprang the Capetian dynasty.

Throughout the Middle-Ages, religious life was intensely active at
Soissons. At that time, the City comprised six large monasteries, in
addition to the Cathedral and several churches or collegiates. It
was none the less a lay fief with the rank of county, which in 1131
obtained a communal charter under _Louis-le-Gros_, and on the accession
of _Francis I_, became definitely part of the crown lands.

Situated on the main roads of invasion, Soissons has always been one of
the advance posts which protect Paris. For this reason, it has suffered
numerous sieges, most of them disastrous, owing to the unfavourable
situation of the city, which lies in a plain surrounded by hills. It
was taken and pillaged in 1414 by the troops of _Charles VI_, in 1544
by _Charles-Quint_, and in 1567 by the Protestants. In 1814, during the
French campaign, it was conquered by the Russians and Prussians, whilst
in 1815, after Waterloo, it had to re-open its gates to the Allies.

In 1870, a German Army of 20,000 men laid siege to Soissons on
September 11. The garrison of 5,000 soldiers which held the town
refused to surrender, and attempted several unsuccessful sorties.
Posted on the surrounding heights, the German artillery violently
bombarded the town, setting fire to some of the suburbs, the hospital,
and part of the military commissariat established in the old Abbey of
Saint-Jean-des-Vignes. A breach was finally made in the fortifications,
and on October 16, after a siege of thirty-seven days, the city was
forced to surrender.

During the late war, Soissons was twice occupied by the Germans: in
1914, from September 2 to 13, and in 1918, from May 29 to August 2,
after the surprise attack at the Chemin-des-Dames (_See pp. _4 _&_ 7).


DESCRIPTIVE SUMMARY

Soissons, sub-prefecture of the Aisne, was formerly fortified, but was
dismantled after the Franco-German war of 1870. Before the late War,
its population numbered 14 458.

The city proper remained confined within the narrow limits of its
ancient walls. It is bounded on the east by the River Aisne, on the
south by the small stream _Crise_, on the west by the Boulevard Jeanne
d’Arc which follows the line of the old ramparts, and on the north by
the rue Saint-Léger, near which may be seen (close to the tennis court)
part of the remains of the old fortifications (_See plan, p. _12).

Beyond, lie the _faubourgs_: to the west and south, the modern
faubourgs of Saint-Christophe, Crise, and Rheims; to the east, on the
right bank of the Aisne, the old faubourgs: Saint-Waast (named after
the Bishop who converted Clovis to Christianity), and Saint-Médard
(after the Bishop who was buried there during the Merovingian epoch).

Before the War, Soissons was an important provision centre for Paris
(corn and haricot beans). In its suburbs were numerous industrial
concerns: boiler manufactories, mechanical workshops and various
factories, distilleries, sugar-refineries, etc ...

[Illustration: SOISSONS IN THE 16TH CENTURY.

_Model_ (1560) _kept in the Cathedral. Inside the battlemented walls,
six collegiates or abbeys were grouped around the Cathedral._]

[Illustration: _Twice occupied by the Germans_ (1914 & 1918), _Soissons
was two and a half years in the front line._]


THE GERMAN OCCUPATION IN 1914

After the battle of Charleroi, despite the vigorous and determined
counter-offensive launched from Guise to Saint-Quentin on August 29–30,
the Franco-British Armies continued their retreat southwards.

During the evening of August 31, the Valabrègue group of reserve
divisions holding the Vauxaillon-Laffaux-Vaudesson sector, and acting
as flank-guard to the French 5th Army, remained as a covering force to
the north-east of Soissons. It was not, however, intended to defend
the town, and the only object in resisting the enemy at this point
was to cover the French retirement and ensure the safe passage of the
Aisne. Soissons thus became momentarily of primary importance. Large
detachments of enemy cavalry wedged themselves between the British and
French Armies, and advancing from Noyon towards Soissons, became a
formidable menace to the French retirement across the Aisne.

During the night of August 31, a cavalry division was ordered to
proceed with all despatch from Craonne to Soissons. Next morning a
portion of this division took up a position north of the town, in the
neighbourhood of Cuffies, with orders to hold it so long as the reserve
divisions east of the town had not crossed the Aisne. The remainder
halted on the Belleu Hills, with a view to guarding the river on
either side of the town. At about 10 a.m., the enemy came within sight
of Soissons and was brought to a standstill for two hours by French
cavalry and cyclist scouts. Early in the afternoon, the rear-guard of
the holding force being informed that the French army had succeeded in
crossing the Aisne, retired in an orderly manner towards Septmonts and
Buzancy.

On September 2, the Germans occupied the town, but though they levied
heavy requisitions, did not commit any act of pillage or vandalism.

[Illustration: DEAD HORSES BELONGING TO UHLANS, IN THE PLACE DE
L’HOTEL-DE-VILLE IN 1914.]


THE GERMAN EVACUATION

After the victory of the Marne, the French 6th Army on the Ourcq,
keeping touch with the British on the right, advanced towards the
Aisne. On September 11, the townspeople showed signs of uneasiness. The
45th Division, which formed the right wing of General Maunoury’s Army,
was marching up the Ourcq and Savière valleys against Soissons, having
crushed the enemy’s attempted resistance at Chaudun.

On the following day, African troops, assisted by the fire of British
artillery stationed at Buzancy, entered the town. As the bridges had
been blown up by the retreating enemy, the night had to be spent in the
construction of foot-bridges, the work being carried out under fire
from the German heavy artillery.

On September 13, the Zouaves and Tirailleurs, under the command of
General Quiquandon, attacked Hill 132, which dominates Soissons on the
immediate north, but were unable to eject the strong enemy detachments
there. Repeated attacks on September 14, 17, 23 and 30 were not
more fortunate. The Germans could not be dislodged from these hills
which, on account of their many deep quarries and horizontal shafts,
formed natural fortresses, and gave them a vantage ground for the
indiscriminate bombardment of Soissons.

_These bombardments will be dealt with further on. They aimed almost
exclusively at the destruction of the town, and as they served no
military purpose, they need not be included in this account of the
military operations._


FRENCH EFFORTS TO FREE SOISSONS

The destructive bombardment of the town continuing, the French High
Command decided, at the beginning of January 1915, to make another
attempt to free Soissons.

On January 8, a battalion of Chasseurs and one of Moroccan
Sharp-shooters, supported by men of the 55th Division, attacked and
succeeded in gaining the top of the north-east hill, thus obtaining a
footing on Spur 132 (_see map., p. _53).

On the 12th, the Germans attacked violently in front of Crouy and Hill
132, at a time when the Aisne floods had carried away the foot-bridges,
and threatened to cut the French communications, which at the time
depended solely on the Saint-Waast bridge.

After a fierce struggle which lasted till nightfall, the French lost
the line, along the hills north of the town. A division of the 7th
Corps was thrown into the battle, and by a brilliant attack recaptured
part of ridge 132. However, as the communications with the left bank of
the Aisne were becoming more and more precarious, it received orders to
cover the general retreat decreed by General Maunoury. On the night of
the 13th, the French retired across the Aisne leaving only one strongly
fortified bridge-head between the distillery and Saint-Paul on the
northern bank (_see pp. _56 _&_ 61).

From the 14th onwards, the Germans commenced attacking the bridge-head
in massed formation. They succeeded for a moment in getting into the
little hamlet of Saint-Paul, about a mile from the first houses of
Soissons, but they were driven out on the same day. On the 16th, enemy
bombardment compelled a fresh party of the townspeople to leave their
homes. After further fruitless endeavours the Germans abandoned their
attacks, and the relative calm of trench warfare set in again in this
sector.


LIBERATION OF SOISSONS IN 1917

Until March 1917, the opposing lines underwent no further important
modifications. Here and there, however, their defences had been
considerably strengthened by redoubts, concrete machine-gun
emplacements and very formidable barbed-wire entanglements.

_The second itinerary (pp. 52–64) will enable those interested to
inspect parts of these lines, which form a rough semi-circle around
Soissons and are quite close to the city._

The German retirement in March 1917 along both banks of the Oise,
covered only a very small extent of ground in the neighbourhood of
Soissons, which formed the pivot of the manœuvre.

The new front was less than five miles behind the old one and, though
the town remained within easy range of the German heavy artillery,
bombardment was less frequent than before.

From March 17, the Germans abandoned their trenches at Crouy and on
Hill 132, but tried to stem the French forward push. They launched
violent counter-attacks between Vregny and Margival, and the French
advanced only step by step to the first trenches of the redoubtable
Hindenburg line. By the end of the month, they had scarcely advanced
beyond Neuville-sur-Margival and Leuilly. On April 1, they attacked
along the line of the Ailette-Laon road, and reached the outskirts
of Laffaux and Vauxaillon. The French occupied this last village and
Vauxeny during the following days, but their advance went no further.

On April 16, the 6th Army under General Mangin attacked in conjunction
with the 5th Army on the east. This offensive was only partly
successful. To the north-east of Soissons, where the first Colonial
Corps was in action, the French made but little progress, and failed to
take the Moisy Farm Plateau. Laffaux was alternately taken and lost,
and was only definitely occupied on the 19th. At dawn on May 5, a new
offensive was started along the whole front south-east of Vauxaillon.
Moisy Farm and Laffaux Mill were taken by the French Colonials and
Cuirassiers on foot, and held despite numerous fierce counter-attacks.
The next day, they advanced yet further north of the mill. The Germans,
who could not resign themselves to the loss of these key positions,
made repeated endeavours to retake them, and the Soissons sector became
“a new Verdun.” On October 23, 1917, General Maistre ordered a vigorous
offensive, and while the 38th division (General de Salins) captured
the Malmaison fort, the 21st Corps (General Degoutte) captured with a
single rush the villages of Allemant and Vaudesson. On the 25th, the
French occupied the village and forest of Pinon and reached the line
of the canal between the Oise and the Aisne. Soissons was now quite
cleared.

[Illustration: FRONT 1915–1917.]


THE GERMAN OCCUPATION IN 1918

In 1918, Soissons had again to face the horrors of invasion. On May 27
1918, after the failure of the two German offensives against Paris and
Amiens, the Crown Prince threw his divisions forward in a formidable
attack along the Aisne Front. The Germans, taking full advantage of the
surprise which gave them an absolute numerical superiority, crossed the
Chemin-des-Dames in the early hours of the morning. Then, while east
of Soissons they were crossing the Aisne in the direction of Vailly
and advancing along the left bank of the river as far as the Vesle,
they made progress to the north-east in the direction of the undulating
plains which sheltered the town.

On the 28th, despite the bitter resistance of the few French units
in this sector, they succeeded in getting a footing in the plains of
Vregny and Crouy, and crept along the southern bank of the Aisne to the
very gates of Soissons, the east and south-east suburbs of which this
converging movement enabled them to attain.

The next day, May 29, they captured the suburbs of Saint-Waast and
Saint-Médard on the right bank. Then a party of Brandeburg sappers,
advancing in front of the attacking force, captured the bridges, and
prevented the French from destroying them. About noon, the Germans
entered the town, and after street-fighting which lasted several hours,
drove back the French into the western suburbs. The French however,
still held Pasly Hill to the north-east of Soissons. Throughout the
night, French artillery bombarded the approaches of the town and all
the places where the Aisne could be crossed, while enfilading fire from
the machine-guns prevented the German soldiers from using the streets.
Not until nine o’clock on the morning of the 30th did the enemy capture
Pasly Hill and thus secure entire possession of Soissons.

For two days the French clung desperately to the western approaches of
the town, but to the south, the Germans established themselves in the
angle formed by the Aisne and the Crise, and succeeded in capturing
Vierzy and Chaudun. The French positions were thus taken in the rear,
and had to be abandoned, step by step, after stubborn fighting.

The arrival of reinforcements at the beginning of June, enabled the
French definitely to check the enemy, who by this time was exhausted.
Though the Germans launched many violent attacks west of Soissons, they
were unable to advance beyond the Amblény-Longpont line, six or seven
miles from the town, which left the Allies free possession of the Paris
road through Villers-Cotterets Wood.

[Illustration: GERMAN PILLAGING.
(_see text opposite_).]

During the second period of occupation, which lasted from May 29 till
August 2, the Germans systematically pillaged the city. Every house
was emptied of its contents. Before being despatched to Germany, the
plunder was centralized in certain places indicated by signs bearing
the words “Zur Beutesammelstelle” (to the booty-collecting-centre),
with an arrow (_photo opposite_).

Objects which, by reason of their weight or bulk, could not be
transported, were destroyed or spoilt.

From July 18 onwards, General Mangin successfully attacked the right
flank of the German Army, with the result that on August 2, Soissons
was once more in French hands. At 6 p.m. on that day, French Chasseurs
under General Vuillemot crossed the burning town and reached the Aisne
bridges, beyond which, in the Saint-Waast suburb, the enemy rear-guard
made a last stand (_photo p._9). One of the pivots of the wedge driven
between the Marne and the Aisne by the German Armies, had given way,
and the enemy was soon forced to retire as far as the Vesle.

[Illustration: _Sarcophagus in the Cathedral broken open by the
Germans._]

[Illustration: FRENCH REPLY TO GERMAN PILLAGING.

_The first French soldiers to enter Soissons on August 2, 1918,
«pillaged» a German kitchen-garden, in which a notice signed by the
Kommandantur prohibited the entry of troops other than the 3rd. Co. of
the 43rd regt of Field Artillery._]

The offensive was stayed for a moment in front of the strong hill
positions on the north bank of the Aisne, where the Germans had
entrenched themselves. An intense bombardment then completed the city’s
ruin. The French advance began again at the end of August. On the
30th and 31st, Cuffies and Crouy were retaken while on the following
days the battle continued furiously on the heights north and east of
Soissons. General Mangin’s Army succeeded in advancing as far as the
plains of Vauxaillon, Laffaux and Vregny, whence it soon dislodged the
enemy.

[Illustration: THE ENEMY’S LAST EFFORTS AT RESISTANCE.
_German barricade at the exit of the Pont des Anglais in the faubourg
Saint-Waast, August 1918_.]


THE BOMBARDMENTS OF SOISSONS

As soon as they were driven out of Soissons in September 1914, the
enemy proceeded to bombard the city. During the latter part of
September, the cannonade was incessant, the fire being directed
successively on all the different quarters and public buildings,
including the hospital filled with wounded.

[Illustration: MASS IN THE CATHEDRAL 1917.]

After a short lull, the bombardment continued with great violence
throughout January 1915.

On January 8, the Palais-de-Justice was set on fire, and on the 9th,
the Cathedral was struck by 42 shells. On January 14, the shelling
lasted all day, and until the end of February, the firing continued
with the same intensity and almost without pause. The Cathedral was
systematically aimed at, as is proved by the note book belonging to the
Kommandant of the “Ringkanonenbatterie” posted north-east of Soissons
on Hill 132, which fell into the Allies’ hands.

[Illustration: IN THE CENTRE OF THE TOWN.]

On January 31, he wrote: “The battery fired nineteen rounds of
percussion and fuze shells at the Cathedral. The tower and nave were
hit several times, and the beginning of a fire was noticed in the
nave. So far, we have not been able to do much damage to the tower
...” On February 2, a battery fired twenty-nine rounds of shrapnel at
the Cathedral, and in particular at the tower, sixteen of which hit
the mark. On February 25, twenty-one shells were fired at the same
target. As for the town itself, another 200 rounds were fired into it
on February 28. The bombardment slackened later, but began again at
intervals, without any apparent reason and with varying intensity.
It was continued until the middle of March 1917, when the German
withdrawal from the Somme to the Aisne freed Soissons, which could now
only be reached by the long-range guns. However aeroplanes frequently
dropped incendiary bombs on the city.

[Illustration: TRENCH IN THE BOULEVARD JEANNE-D’ARC.]


LIFE IN SOISSONS FROM 1914 TO 1917
A thirty-months’ Siege.

From September 1914 to March 1917, while the Germans remained at the
gates of the city, the latter was veritably besieged. Notwithstanding
the increasing destruction caused by the shells, the civil population
continued bravely to “carry on”. Part of the population refused to
leave the city, while here and there, on the walls that were left
standing, printed notices announced the fact that the house was still
occupied. Then followed the names of the courageous inmates. During the
bombardments, the people took shelter in the cellars, only to resume
their ordinary daily occupations as soon as the firing ceased. The
public services continued to work normally. Many shops were kept open,
and an hotel was available for the travellers who arrived by the night
omnibus that linked up the city with Vierzy, the nearest point on the
railway.

In parts of the city, it was only possible to get about by making use
of the communication trenches which ran along the side of the roads.
One such trench ran the whole length of the Boulevard Jeanne-d’Arc
(_photo above_), while others crossed the Town-Hall gardens
(_See p. _40) and the streets near the Aisne.

Moreover, getting about was restricted to certain quarters of the city
as, just beyond the centre, the defensive works (barricades, trenches,
etc.) began.

_These works are described in the second Itinerary (_p. _52–64) which
takes the tourist from the centre of the town to the first line
trenches of the 1915–1917 front (Vauxrot, Saint-Paul and Saint-Médard),
via the Mail, Saint-Waast suburb, etc._

[Illustration: THE OLD FIRST FRENCH LINE.
_The Distillery see p. _56.]

[Illustration: SOISSONS

POPULATION · 14,458 inhabitants. ALTITUDE 180 feet.

SCALE
0  50  100  200  300  400

HOTELS: a Hôtel de la Croix d’Or b Hôtel du Lion Rouge

:::::::::: Streets and roads impracticable for motor-cars. ]

[Illustration: ITINERARY IN THE CITY (_pp. _15–51).

_Starting from the_ =Cathedral= _follow the streets indicated, by_
=continuous= _lines, in the direction of the arrows_.

_The_ =numbers= _indicate the_ =pages= _where the corresponding_
=photographs= _will be found_.]

[Illustration: SOISSONS IN 1914, _seen from the Northern Tower of
Saint-Jean-des-Vignes Abbey_.]

The German bombardments made countless ruins throughout the town.
Everywhere one sees shattered walls, hanging roofs, and heaps of
rubbish and stones that once were houses.

The ruins are gradually being cleared away, to make room for the new
life which is springing up, but signs of the destruction will long
remain.

[Illustration: SOISSONS IN NOVEMBER 1918.
_Note the separation of the Cathedral Tower from the Nave_ (_pp.
_19–24).]



VISIT TO THE CITY AND ITS SURROUNDINGS

(_See plan, p. _12 and itineraries, pp. _13_ & _52).

=Do not miss=: =The Cathedral= (_p. _15); =the ruins of the Abbey of
Saint-Jean-des-Vignes= (_p. _44).

Archæological Curiosities: THE CHURCH AND CLOISTER OF SAINT-LÉGER (_p.
_35); THE OLD CHURCH OF SAINT-PIERRE-AU-PARVIS (_p. _42); THE CRYPT OF
THE OLD ABBEY OF SAINT-MÉDARD (_p. _61).

Other sights: THE MAISON DE L’ARQUEBUSE (_p. _43). THE MUSEUM (_p. _40).

Souvenirs and traces of the war: THE RUINS IN THE TOWN, THE MAIL
(_p._54), THE BRIDGES (_pp. _55 _&_ 63) THE FAUBOURG ST. WAAST (_p.
_62), THE MILITARY WORKS FROM VAUXROT TO ST. PAUL (_pp. _56–61).

TWO ITINERARIES are given, each starting from and returning to THE
CATHEDRAL, which include all points of interest in the city and its
environs:

_First Itinerary_ (_p. _13) =The City= (_pp. _15–51).
_Second Itinerary_ (_p. _52) =The Surroundings= (_pp. _53–63).



FIRST ITINERARY—VISIT TO THE CITY

THE CATHEDRAL


[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL IN NOVEMBER 1918.]

_In April 1919, visitors entered through the door in the Place du
Cloître_ (_see pp. _29 _&_ 33).

The Cathedral of Soissons (H.M.) may be considered as a miniature
of that of Amiens. For the purity of its lines and simplicity of
arrangement, it is probably the finest of the secondary Cathedrals in
France.

[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL BEFORE THE WAR.

_The unfinished main front had only one tower._]

It was very quickly built, of hard Soissons stone, and is peculiar in
that building began at the south arm of the transept,—primitive Gothic
in style,—during the last third of the 12th century. Next were built,
in pointed Gothic, the choir (completed in 1212) then the nave. The
main body of the cathedral was completed in the middle of the 13th
century, with the exception of the high parts of the main front (on
which a single tower was built in the 14th century) and of the façade
of the north arm of the transept (also 14th century).

The cathedral of Soissons, like that of Arras, has greatly suffered
in its vital parts. The nave, which partly fell in during 1915–1916,
was, with the aisles, entirely destroyed by the end of 1918. The tower,
which, though severely damaged by enemy shell-fire, was still standing,
collapsed at the same time. The transept and choir alone escaped with
slight damage.


Principal Façade of the Cathedral.

The West front contains three doorways, finished about 1230, but
disfigured in the 18th century by roughcast, which destroyed their
13th century decoration, since replaced by pseudo-Gothic ornament.

[Illustration: THE TOWER IN JUNE 1915.
_The collapse of the mullion laid bare the framework of the belfry._]

Above the large rose-window, set in a tierce-point arch, rises a
graceful gallery composed of double arches surmounted by gables, which
is carried all round the single tower, about 241 feet in height.

The tower comprised on each front two long bays separated by a mullion.
Its later date was noticeable chiefly in the statues of apostles,
saints and bishops, sheltered beneath finely carved canopies, which
ornamented the corner abutments.

Throughout the war, the German gunners made a constant target of the
cathedral tower.

In June 1915, large calibre shells caused the collapse of the great
mullion separating the two bays on the west front, which fell to the
ground, a large breach in the upper part of the tower laying bare the
framework of the belfry (_photo above_). The same collapse caused the
fall of almost all the gables of the lower gallery, the left bay of
which had previously been struck by several shells.

[Illustration: THE TOWER IN MARCH 1919.]

Until 1918, no further damage of importance was done to the façade,
but in August of that year, some days after the French had retaken
Soissons, three sides of the tower (north, south and east) and the
interior framework of the belfry were entirely destroyed by the
numerous German shells. In September 1918, all that remained of the
tower were the two buttresses at the north-west and south-west corners.
By a miracle they remain poised, but loosened stones keep constantly
crashing to the ground (_photo above_).

All the arches of the gallery above the large rose-window were also
destroyed in August 1918.


Interior of the Cathedral.

The cathedral, over 300 feet in length, comprises:

  A Nave with seven bays and double side-aisles, with chapels of a later
  date added to the last four bays.

  A Transept, the south arm of which ends in a semi-circle, and the
  north arm in a straight wall.

  A Choir with four bays and a semi-circular Apse surrounded by an
  ambulatory, off which open eight rectangular chapels, and, at the
  apse, five radial polygonal chapels.

[Illustration: PLAN OF THE CATHEDRAL.

  A.—Pillar of the Nave broken in 1915.

  B.—Gallery of the old Cathedral Cloister.

  C.—Chapel in the South Arm.

  D.—Vestry Passage (statue of Virgin and Child).

  E.—St. Ruffin’s Chapel (17th century statue of the saint).

  F.—St. Valère’s Chapel (17th century statue of the saint). ]


The Nave before the Bombardments.

Completed about 1230, the Nave—now entirely destroyed—was regarded
before the war as one of the best examples of the harmonious simplicity
of early 13th century Gothic architecture.

The central vault was about 103 feet in height.

The bays were divided by columns flanked on the side facing the grand
nave by a small engaged shaft. On their fine capitals, decorated with
four rows of crockets or foliage, rested the large arches of the
ground floor, and the groups of five small columns which supported the
springing of the pointed arches of the vault.

The large arcades were surmounted by a shallow triforium and high
double windows with dividing mullions.

The wide, lofty aisles with windows gave additional light to the body
of the church. Their vaulting was pointed and terminated at the last
bays in chapels built for the most part in the 18th century.

In the second bay of the north aisle, a gallery (_B on plan_), the
remains of the old cathedral cloister, gave access to a large chapel
(Chapelle des Œuvres) with two naves of three bays. It was the old
chapter-house, built in the 13th century, by prolonging the west front
but completely remodelled in the 19th century.

[Illustration: THE NAVE BEFORE THE BOMBARDMENTS.]

[Illustration: COLLAPSE OF THE PILLAR, FEBRUARY 1915.]

[Illustration: SOUTHERN AISLE AND TRIFORIUM, NOVEMBER 1918.]


The destruction of the Nave and fall of the Pillar.

Early in February 1915, a projectile, entering by a hole made by a
previous shell in the wall of the south aisle, struck the second column
(_A on plan, p. _18) on the left of the main nave, which was broken in
two about 13 feet from the ground (_photos pp. _20–21). The upper part,
with the capital and courses supporting the springing of the vault,
gave way, dragging down in its fall a portion of the vault and of the
wall at the back of the triforium.

The ruins accumulated rapidly. By the end of March, the roof of
the grand nave and of the north aisle, which the broken pillar had
sustained, collapsed. The whole of the triforium, the large window, the
flying buttress outside, the framework, and the roofing of the bay of
the aisle also gave way. An enormous breach was made in the cathedral,
and the floor of the nave was covered with a shapeless mass of broken
stones, which increased during the following months.

[Illustration: THE GREAT NAVE AND NORTHERN AISLE, NOVEMBER 1918.
_Behind the two standing pillars is seen the base of the pillar which
collapsed in Feb. 1915. The fall is shown on p. _20.]

[Illustration: THE FALLEN VAULTING LEFT BARE THE DAMAGED FRAMEWORK OF
THE ROOF.]

[Illustration]

[Illustration: BREACH IN THE NAVE, NOVEMBER 1918.]


The fall of the Vaulting.

The vaults of the remaining bays, already weakened, could not withstand
the renewed bombardments. One after another they crashed to the ground,
with the exception of those of the first and seventh bays. Everywhere
else, pieces of broken or disjointed framework, supporting a completely
ruined roof, are exposed to view (_photo above_).

Several of the large windows on the north side have also fallen in and
all the stained-glass has been smashed.


The Final Ruin.

[Illustration: THE NAVE, AUGUST 1918.]

The bombardments of 1918 destroyed the nave beyond hope of repair.

Several large pillars collapsed and a considerable portion of the upper
part of the side walls, large arches and triforium fell in to the
right and left.

Three bays near the west front, with their large arches and the aisles
were completely destroyed. All this masonry fell inside the nave,
forming across its entire breadth a heap of debris more than 19 feet
high and about 33 feet long.

Fragments of vaulting, bases of pillars, stones from the roof,
were mixed in shapeless chaos with a quantity of architectural and
sculptured motives, notably the beautiful capitals and the key-stones
of the vault, mostly broken. And on this heap of ruins the roof-timbers
of the framework, deprived of all support, fell by degrees in their
turn.

The old harmonious construction of the nave is now to be seen only in
the bays nearest the transept.

The Chapelle des Œuvres was struck several times. The most serious
damage was caused during the first bombardments of 1914 by a shell
which exploded on the roof of the gallery (_B on plan p. _18, _photo
below_) which leads to the chapel. Penetrating the roof and the
framework, it caused the vault to fall in, broke the arches, and
shattered the stained-glass of the chapel windows.

[Illustration: GALLERY GIVING ACCESS TO THE CHAPELLE DES ŒUVRES, NOV.
1918.]


[Illustration: SOUTH ARM OF TRANSEPT. _See the exterior, p. _29.]

South Arm of the Transept.

The bombardments have spared the south arm of the transept, a marvel of
grace and simplicity, built about 1175, by Bishop Nivelon of Chérisy.
It is the oldest and also the least elevated portion of the cathedral.

The arm of the transept ends in a semi-circle (a peculiarity which it
shares with those of the old Cathedral of Noyon and numerous Rhenish
churches) and is surrounded by an ambulatory.

In style it differs distinctly from that of the rest of the building,
and presents the distinguishing features of primitive Gothic.

The triforium—which elsewhere consists only of a narrow gallery—is
here double. It comprises a story of high, wide, arched tribunes,
grouped three and three, surmounted by a narrow passage with graceful
colonnettes.

The main vault is supported by six pointed ribs which intersect in a
central key-stone ornamented with six angels.

The south arm of the transept is lighted by three series of windows.
Small semi-circular bays are cut in the wall of the ambulatory. The
galleries are lighted—except on the right, which is ornamented with
rose-windows—by tierce-point windows in groups of three. There is a
final row of high tierce-point windows, also in groups of three, above
the triforium.

Some of the capitals are masterpieces of ornamental sculpture. Their
decoration consists either of the foliage characteristic of Romanesque
capitals (acanthus leaves) or of projecting crockets,—one of the
earliest examples of this distinctive ornament of Gothic capitals.

On the east side of the south arm of the transept there is a
two-storied polygonal chapel (_C on plan, p. _18) of the same period.
The key-stone of the vault of the lower chapel represents two angels
carrying the _Agnus Dei_ on a cloth. The upper chapel, in which the
Treasure was formerly kept, communicates with the galleries.


The Choir and Apse.

The choir, where, on the completion of the south arm of the
transept, Bishop Nivelon of Chérisy continued the building of the
Cathedral (1200–1212), is one of the earliest examples of Pointed
Gothic—so-called on account of the sharp outline of the arches. A
notable characteristic of this is the transformation of the wide
galleries of the triforium into a narrow gallery, which gives greater
importance to the wide arches of the ground floor and to the high
windows of the upper story.

Its general plan is similar to that of the nave, built immediately
afterwards: lofty wide arches, narrow triforium, high windows (but
without mullions, forming a single bay), and pointed vaults of
rectangular plan.

The Choir is flanked by side-aisles, off which open, on each side four
rectangular chapels with groined vaults.

The second chapel of the aisle has an inscription recording the date on
which the Canons took possession of the Choir:

_Anno milleno biscenteno duodeno hunc intrare chorum Cepit grex
canonicorum tercio idus maii._

(In the year 1212, on the third Ides of May, the Canons first took
possession of the Choir).

[Illustration: THE CHOIR.
_On the left and at the back sand-bags protected the art treasures._]

The south side-aisle communicates with the chapel attached to the south
arm of the transept by a 15th century vaulted corridor (_D on plan p.
_18) in which there is a fine 16th century statue of the Virgin and
Infant seated.

The two side-aisles continue round the semi-circular apse, forming
an ambulatory surrounded by five shallow radial chapels. The central
chapel is consecrated, as usual, to the Virgin. The pointed vaults of
the chapels unite with those of the ambulatory, eight pointed ribs
meeting in the same key-stone.

The choir, scarcely touched by enemy fire up to December 1916, suffered
more serious damage then and in January 1917.

Shells pierced the vault in two places and also penetrated several
parts of the triforium wall, breaking the arches. In the apse, portions
of the vault were injured and parts of the 13th century stained-glass,
which it was not possible to remove from the high windows, were damaged.

The vital parts of the choir escaped serious damage, and it was
possible during the second half of 1917, to carry out temporary repairs
after the retreat of the Germans. At the same time, in order to make
the choir—as well as the transept, which had also escaped serious
injury—once more available for public worship, a partition was built
shutting off the nave (_photo p. _24).

This protective partition shielded part of the building very
effectively in 1918, when the Choir and Transept escaped serious damage.

Most of the fine 13th century stained-glass windows were removed in
1915 to a place of safety.

They were originally taken from the church of Saint-Yved-de-Braines and
inserted during the 19th century in the high windows of the apse and
those of the Lady Chapel.

Thanks to the protective measures taken, the interior decoration of
the choir escaped injury. It dates from the 18th century and comprises
a high altar of marble, surrounded by a wrought-iron railing, and
flanked by two marble statues of the Virgin and the Angel Gabriel,
depicting the Annunciation. Two consoles of carved and gilded wood with
marble tops, complete this group. The stalls only are 17th century.


The North Arm of the Transept.

The north arm of the transept, flanked by aisles, shows the same
arrangement as the nave, but ends in a straight wall (late 13th
century) which was ornamented in the 14th century. A clerestory gallery
joining the triforium of the side walls, and carried on small, light
columns, is built against this wall. Above are pierced a row of bays
and a fine rose-window containing old stained-glass.

During the war, a fine picture by Rubens (1635), painted for the
Franciscan Fathers in return for their having nursed him through an
illness contracted at Soissons, was removed from the north arm of the
transept to a place of safety. This picture, which represents the
Adoration of the Shepherds, has a fine frame of carved and gilded wood
of the Regency period.

The bombardments did little damage to the north arm of the transept and
to the intersection of the transepts. The worst injury was the falling
in of one of the vaults of the north arm, and the breaking of the
arch-band uniting two of the large pillars of the transept.


The art treasures.

In addition to the works of art preserved in the choir and transept,
the Cathedral possesses a fragment of a 16th century _tapestry_, all
that remains of a large piece devoted to the legend of Saint-Gervais
and Saint-Protais, which, before the War, hung in the north aisle of
the nave.

[Illustration: WOODWORK IN THE SOUTHERN AISLE.]

Before the War, at the entrance to the nave on each side of the main
portal, were memorial =statues= of two abbesses of the ancient abbey of
Notre-Dame, represented kneeling, with folded hands, in the costume of
the period: _Henriette de Lorraine d’Elbeuf_, abbess from 1660 to 1669,
and _Gabrielle-Marie de la Rochefoucauld_ (1683–1693).

_Photographs of these two statues are given below._

In the sacristy are preserved fragments of flamboyant style =woodwork=,
a 17th century =chalice= of finely chased gilt silver, a magnificent
=Crucifix= by _Girardon_ and a fine =reliquary= in gilt copper (1560),
representing the plan of Soissons with its battlemented walls and
churches of the period. (_See p. _3).

[Illustration: HENRIETTE DE LORRAINE D’ELBEUF]

[Illustration: GABRIELLE-MARIE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULD
_Funeral Statues to two Abbesses of the old Abbey of Notre-Dame._]


[Illustration: SOUTHERN ARM OF TRANSEPT.
_See the Interior, p. _25.]

Side façades of the Cathedral.

The exterior of Soissons Cathedral is remarkable for the great
simplicity of its lines and its well-balanced construction.

The high vaults are supported by two super-imposed 13th century
flying-buttresses, which are supported on one side by powerful
abutments and on the other by small engaged columns, the capitals of
which are decorated with crockets. (_See photos, pp. _20, 22, 24).

Against the straight wall which ends the north arm of the transept are
14th century radiating arcades (_p. _30). This wall is pierced by a
large rose-window set in tierce-point arch. It ends in a gable with
14th century ornament, and is flanked by two bell-turrets, one of which
was destroyed. (_Photos, pp. _30 _&_ 31).

To the east of the north arm of the transept, obstructing the first
window of the choir aisle, is a 14th century portal with a sharply
pointed gable, supported by two buttresses (_photo opposite_). The
higher finish and greater adornment of 14th century decorative art
is clearly to be seen here: sharply pointed gables ornamented with
trefoil over the portal and buttresses, and intricately carved bouquets
of foliage on the capitals, replacing the hooked crockets of the
preceding century.

[Illustration: DOORWAY OF THE NORTHERN ARM OF TRANSEPT.]

[Illustration: NORTH FRONT.
_Choir and North Arm of Transept, Nov. 1918. See description, p. _29.]


=The Exterior of the Cathedral= (_Nov. 1918_).

The bombardments seriously damaged the side façades of the cathedral.
All the stone-work, bays, flying-buttresses and abutments, and all the
roofing and framework collapsed as far as the first bays of the nave.
The building is, so to speak, cut into two unequal parts throughout its
entire width, by an immense gap. (_Photo p. _31, _Panorama p. _14).

[Illustration: THE FIRST SHELLS TO HIT THE MAIN ROOF.]

The rounded arm of the transept and the south end of the choir suffered
comparatively little. On the other hand, the bombardments seriously
injured the chevet and the north front of the choir. The upper part
of one of the high windows in the apse was struck. A buttress of
the Lady Chapel was badly broken, while two unexploded shells are
embedded in the damaged stone-work of a neighbouring buttress. On the
north front of the choir most of the abutments were damaged and the
flying-buttresses which support it, more or less injured.

[Illustration: NORTH FRONT. _North Arm of Transept, Nave and Chapelle
des Œuvres, Nov. 1918._]

The roofing was ruined and the framework broken. The north arm of the
transept, especially the gable, was also somewhat damaged. One of the
turrets surrounding it was broken off (_Photo above_).

However, the north front of the nave suffered most (_photo above_).
In addition to the opening made at the west end, the stone-work and
roofing were injured throughout their entire length. Only the last
two windows next the transept retained their mullions, the others
being more or less completely destroyed. Of the flying-buttresses and
abutment-piers, very little remains standing.

[Illustration: THE CHAPELLE DES ŒUVRES.
_Seen from the corner of the Rues de la Buerie and Jaulzy, Nov. 1918._]



VISIT TO THE TOWN

_On leaving the Cathedral, follow the itinerary on page 13._

The surroundings of Soissons, like the cathedral, suffered severely
from the bombardments. In the Place de la Cathédrale (or Place
Mantoue), the Rue des Minimes and the Place du Cloître are =broken
roofs=, and in the Rue du Beffroi, =ruins= of houses.

[Illustration: 13th. CENTURY TURRET
_Place de la Cathédrale_.]

At n^o 6 of the Place de la Cathédrale, in front of the bombarded
Presbytery, stands a much damaged 13th century =tower= (_photo
opposite_) all that remains of the old Bishop’s Palace, rebuilt in
1638, of brick and stone, at the south of the Place between the Rue de
l’Évêché and the Rue des Minimes.

In the court of the Bishop’s Palace (_reached through the Rue de
l’Évêché_), near the Rue des Minimes, there still stand about 15 yards
of the old =Gallo-Roman wall= which surrounded the town (_hist. mon._)

The wall has a facing of dressed stone interrupted at frequent
intervals by a string-course of red bricks.

_To reach the Place du Cloître take the Rue de l’Évêché, round the
chevet of the Cathedral._

[Illustration: PLACE DE LA CATHÉDRALE AND RUE DU BEFFROI.]

[Illustration: THE PLACE DU CLOÎTRE IN 1914.]

The =Place du Cloître=, at right angles to the north portal of the
Cathedral, was formerly lined by the houses of the Canons. Of these old
dwellings there remain =three bays in tierce-point= (13th century), on
the first story of a house (_N_^o 14) in the _Place_ (_on the left of
the photographs on this page_).

Opposite are two =Renaissance façades=.

Most of the houses in the _Place_ were badly damaged by shells aimed at
the cathedral.

Fortunately, these three remarkable façades escaped injury.

[Illustration: THE PLACE DU CLOÎTRE IN 1918.]

[Illustration: THE RUE DU COLLÈGE.]

_Take the Rue du Collège on the left_, devastated by incendiary bombs
from aeroplanes (_photo opposite_); at the end of a blind alley stands
the =door of the college= (_hist. mon._) (_Photo below_) built between
1740 and 1760.

[Illustration: THE DOOR OF THE COLLEGE.]

[Illustration: THE GRAND’PLACE AND THEATRE.]

Doric pillars support a large frontal with decorative carving
representing _Pallas_ and _Ceres_.

This door is intact, but the college buildings suffered severely.

Several shells penetrated the walls and roofing, exploding in the
dormitories and class-rooms and destroying all before them.

_Follow the Rue du Collège as far as the Rue des Cordeliers_ (_first
on the right_) _which leads to the_ =Grand’Place= (_photo below_).
Here are 18th century houses (_N_^{os} 9-11), the early 19th century
=theatre= and a late 19th century ornamental =fountain=.

The theatre suffered severely from bombardment, its roof being
completely destroyed, but the fountain escaped injury.

[Illustration: SAINT-LÉGER CHURCH AND VICINITY.]

_Take the rue Saint-Léger as far as the Church of Saint-Léger, the
houses round about which have been destroyed_ (_photo above_).



CHURCH OF SAINT-LÉGER


[Illustration: SAINT-LÉGER CHURCH.]

This church was formerly part of an abbey founded in 1152 in memory of
Saint-Léger, Bishop of Autun, assassinated in 678 by the Mayor of the
Palace, Ebroïn.

The nave and west front were rebuilt in the 17th century, after the
sack of the monastery by the Huguenots in 1567. It is now secularized.

The nave, separated from the rest of the building by a wall, was used
before the war as a hall for public meetings, while a geological museum
was to have been installed in the transept and choir.

The façade is 17th century.

The central semi-circular porch is supported by twin columns with Ionic
capitals.

Its large doorway, surmounted by a broken triangular frontal, is
flanked by fluted pilasters.

[Illustration: SAINT-LÉGER CHURCH.
_Cloister and North Front. In the background: Ruined Tower._]

Above the porch rises the two-storied tower. The first story has a
single semi-circular bay on each front, and is divided by Corinthian
pilasters. The second story has two twin bays and fluted columns with
Corinthian capitals at the corners.

The whole east front of the upper story was demolished by the
bombardments (_photo above_). The windows and corner columns fell on
the roof of the nave, breaking it in many places.

The nave, with double side-aisles, was reconstructed in the 17th
century, and is of little interest. Three of its vaulted bays have
fallen in (_photo below_).

[Illustration: THE NAVE, ST-LÉGER CHURCH.]

[Illustration: SOUTH ARM OF TRANSEPT, ST-LÉGER CHURCH, IN 1914.]

The two-armed transept, as well as the choir which terminates in a
canted chevet (_photos opposite and below_) were less injured. They
date from the 13th century, but have been restored. They have pointed
vaults, and are lighted by high and low windows separated by a narrow
triforium. The windows of the transept-ends and of the choir are double
and surmounted by a rose-window; those of the apse are single and
framed outside by abutments. The wall at the end of the north arm of
the transept, at the back of which were the monastic buildings, has
no opening, but that of the south arm is entirely open. The exterior
façades of both arms end in a gable pierced by narrow slits and are
flanked by buttresses in the form of polygonal turrets. The east
buttress of the north arm was badly damaged by a shell.

Shell holes are visible in the walls of the chevet and in the vaulting
of the south arm of the transept.

[Illustration: CHEVET AND TRANSEPT, ST-LÉGER CHURCH, IN 1914.]

[Illustration: THE CLOISTER OF ST-LÉGER CHURCH IN 1914.
_The old cloister was full of flowers_ ...]

Through the north aisle of the nave of the church the old =cloister=
of the abbey, built at the end of the 13th and beginning of the 14th
centuries, is reached. The north and east galleries alone remain.

Each gallery comprises four bays, the pointed vaults of which are
supported on one side by brackets, and on the other by a cluster of
slender colonnettes.

[Illustration: IN THE CLOISTER, _see p. _36.]

[Illustration: THE CLOISTER OF ST-LÉGER CHURCH, IN 1918.

... _Then came the war._]

To the east of the cloister is the old 13th century chapter-house,
disfigured. It is lighted by three windows and has pointed arches
resting on columns with crocketed capitals.

The walls of the cloister and chapter-house bear numerous traces of the
bombardments.

The first door on the right in the east gallery of the cloister leads
to a =crypt= below the church, built at the beginning of the 12th
century and about 40 feet in length. It consists of two galleries with
two bays, the groined ribs of which are carried on square pillars
flanked by columns with cubic foliate capitals.

This crypt is prolonged, on the east, by a polygonal apse lighted
by small tierce-point windows and having pointed vaulting which was
rebuilt in the 13th century on the plan of the apse of the upper church
(_photo below_).

[Illustration: THE CRYPT, ST-LÉGER CHURCH.]

[Illustration: THE HÔTEL-DE-VILLE.
_Front overlooking the gardens_]

_Leaving Saint-Léger, turn to the left and follow the Rue de la
Congrégation as far as the_ =Hôtel-de-Ville=.

The Hôtel-de-Ville occupies the old Hôtel de l’Intendance, built in
1772 on the site of the old castle which belonged to the Counts of
Soissons in the Middle-Ages. Struck in various places by large calibre
shells, it suffered considerable damage (_photo above_).

Its Museum and Library did not escape damage and were, moreover
pillaged, while some of the pictures in the museum were lacerated.
However, many objects were removed in time to be saved.

The =museum= contains some fine sculpture, including: the tympanum of
a 13th century portal taken from the Church of Saint-Yved-de-Braisne,
representing _The Descent of Christ into Hades_; another defaced
14th century tympanum from the cloister of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes; a
Romanesque storied capital: _Abraham sacrificing Isaac_ (_photo p.
_41); other 12th century capitals with foliage; the carved lintel
of a Renaissance mantelpiece; the memorial statue of an Abbess of
Notre-Dame, etc.

[Illustration: TRENCHES IN THE GARDENS OF THE HÔTEL-DE-VILLE.]

The other rooms of the museum contain objects of the pre-historic
or Gallo-Roman epoch (e.g. Gallo-Roman dish in chased silver), an
important collection of medals and ceramic ware, picture galleries,
casts, etc ...

The Library contains over 50,000 volumes and 200 manuscripts. Among the
latter should be noted: a beautifully illuminated 12th century Missal
of Saint-Médard; a Bible of Saint-Yved-de-Braisne (12th century); the
Charters and Records of the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes; a very fine
manuscript of the first half of the 14th century, with miniatures: _The
Pilgrimage of Human Life_.

[Illustration: ABRAHAM SACRIFICING ISAAC.
_Storied Roman Capital_]

_On leaving the Hôtel-de-Ville, follow on the left, the Rue de la
Congrégation, then take the first street on the right_ (Rue du
Coq-Lombard) _and go round the block of buildings on the right, bounded
by the Rue du Coq-Lombard, Rue de Bauton and Rue des Francs-Boisiers
which leads back to the Rue de la Congrégation._

This is one of the best preserved corners of old Soissons. In spite of
later structural alterations, several houses built between the 14th and
17th centuries bear traces of their original construction. One of them
(n^o 5 in the court) has a curious doorway with a carved 14th century
tympanum.

A carved panel over the doorway represents the King of Spain bidding
farewell to the King of France. This doorway leads to a tower of the
same period (restored), the upper part of which was struck by a shell.

At n^o 11, in the Rue de Bauton is the _Palais-de-Justice_, partly
destroyed by shell-fire.

_On leaving the Rue des Francs-Boisiers_ (_see_ ruins of burnt houses),
_follow the Rue de la Congrégation on the right, then the Rue du
Commerce (its continuation) as far as the Place Saint-Pierre_: _on the
left_ are the ruins of the old Church of Saint-Pierre-au-Parvis.

[Illustration: CHURCH OF SAINT-PIERRE-AU-PARVIS.
_South façade before the War_]


=The old Church of Saint-Pierre-au-Parvis= (_Hist. Mon._)

The apse, transept and three bays of the nave of the church,
secularized at the time of the Revolution, were pulled down in 1800.

The two remaining bays of the nave were greatly damaged during the
war by the explosion of a store of grenades. The roof and most of the
vaulting have been destroyed.

[Illustration: CHURCH OF SAINT-PIERRE-AU-PARVIS,
_November 1918_.]

Only the main front and the lower part of the south front (fine
specimens of the Romanesque style of the middle of the 12th century)
escaped with slight injury (_photo p. _42).

_At the corner of the Place Saint-Pierre and the Rue de la
Vieille-Gagnerie_ there are two semi-circular windows of great beauty,
visible from the interior of the house no. 19–21.

Supported by four small columns with storied capitals representing
monsters and fantastic animals, these two windows (now blocked up and
serving as a wall for the first-floor room of a restaurant) are all
that remains of a large church which belonged to the old Abbey of
Notre-Dame.

This convent, founded in the 7th century, was rebuilt in 18th century.

The new buildings, completely disfigured by interior alterations and
having no further historical interest, were used as barracks during the
war. They were destroyed by the bombardments and fire.

_Take the Rue de la Gagnerie, turn to the right into the Rue de la
Bannière, then again to the right into the Rue Notre-Dame_, at the end
of which is the =Maison de l’Arquebuse= (_hist. mon._), built in 1626
for the Guild of the Soissons Gunsmiths, and now devoted to military
purposes (_photo below_).

[Illustration: THE MAISON DE L’ARQUEBUSE.]

It is a lodge of brick and stone surmounted by a very steep roof,
and containing a large hall lighted by ten bays. Its main front is
embellished with ornaments of war.

The entrance, built in 1638 by order of Marshal d’Estrées, is Ionic in
style and surmounted by an entablature decorated with trophies.

The upper part of the entablature at the north-east corner of the
doorway was destroyed by a shell, while others injured the roof of the
lodge.

_Take the Rue des Feuillants opposite, then Rue Saint-Martin on the
left, to the Place de la République_, where are the Bourse du Commerce
(1898) and the Monument to the Defence of Soissons in 1870 (inaugurated
in 1901).

_On the south side of the square and bordered by the river Crise_,
there is the fine garden of the Horticultural Society at present in
very bad condition.

_Follow the Rue de Château-Thierry, alongside the garden, then its
continuation, the Boulevard Jeanne d’ Arc, which makes a sharp bend, to
the_ =Abbey= _of_ =Saint-Jean-des-Vignes=.



=ABBEY OF SAINT-JEAN-DES-VIGNES=
(_Hist. Mon._)


Founded in 1076, the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes was one of the
richest and most powerful monasteries of the Middle-Ages.

The liberality of the Kings of France, bishops, nobility and middle
classes enabled the monks in the 13th and 14th centuries to erect a
large abbey-church and important monastic buildings, the plan of which
has been preserved in an engraving of 1673, _reproduced below_.

The plan is that followed almost invariably for monastic buildings. In
the middle is the abbey-church. The monastery buildings proper: the
rooms of the Regulars to which strangers are not admitted, the Novices’
quarters, the dormitories and refectory, are grouped round the four
galleries of the cloister, which extend from the south front of the
church.

On the east side of the cloister is a smaller cloister, abutting on
which are the strangers’ rooms: the refectory and dormitories.

Behind, stands the isolated hospital with its own chapel. Near the
entrance is the Abbot’s house, and further to the east, the store-rooms.

The entrance was fortified, and a continuous wall with roadway,
loop-holes and watch-towers, completely encircled the Abbey.

Beyond this wall stretched the vineyards and agricultural estates of
the monastery. Although despoiled during the Hundred Years War, and
later during the religious wars, the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes
remained rich and flourishing until the Revolution when the monks
were expelled. Some years later (1805), an imperial decree issued
at the request of the Bishop of Soissons, ordered the demolition of
the church, the materials of which were to be used for repairing the
cathedral. The protests of the inhabitants induced the Bishop to have
the main front preserved.

[Illustration: PLAN OF THE MONASTERY.
_Engraving by L. Baraban, 1673._]


The Façade of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes before the War.

Three late 13th century portals surmounted by gables open in the
façade. Under the central portal are two =mutilated statues=: _on the
right_, Saint-Augustin; _on the left_: Saint-John-the-Baptist clothed
in the skin of an animal.

A graceful clerestory gallery, continued at the back round a wide
platform, which at one time formed a gallery above the grand nave,
separates the central portal from the large rose-window set in an
irregular arch. The latter has lost its interior net-work of mullions
and is surmounted by a gable. The gallery and rose-window are late 14th
century.

[Illustration: FRONT OF THE ABBEY OF ST-JEAN-DES-VIGNES BEFORE THE WAR.]

A two-storied tower crowned by a spire rises above each of the side
portals. The first story dates from the end of the 14th century. The
upper part, which differs in each tower, is more than a century later.

The south tower (_on the right of the photo below_), was about 230 feet
in height.

The north tower, finished in 1520, was higher (about 244 feet) and more
massive.

On the first story in the niche next the large rose-window, a statue
of the Virgin faces a statue of the Angel of the Annunciation, which
stands on the opposite buttress of the south tower.

Both stories of the north tower, separated by a Flamboyant gallery with
very sharply pointed gables, are pierced with large bays divided by a
mullion.

On the west side, against the mullion of the upper bay, is a figure of
Christ crucified.

The octagonal spire, surrounded by four turrets, is pierced on
each face by three openings of different sizes, the largest being
under-most, while its angles are adorned with projecting crockets.

[Illustration: NORTH TOWER.    SOUTH TOWER.
THE FRONT IN 1918.]

[Illustration: THE DOORWAYS IN THE MAIN FRONT (1918).
_Part of the ornamental stone-work was damaged by fire in 1870.
Key-stones of the vaulting were shattered by shell-fire in 1914._]

[Illustration: SOUTH TOWER.    NORTH TOWER.
THE REAR SIDE OF THE MAIN FRONT.
_On the left: Entrance to the Cloister._]


The façade of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes after the bombardments.

Previously, in 1870, the façade of the church had been badly damaged.
The German shells set fire to a store of hay housed under the porches,
the splays of which were destroyed (_p. _46).

In 1914, it suffered fresh injury, both spires being struck by shells.
The south tower lost its upper part, the remaining portion being torn
open at the base. The other tower was badly indented near its point,
while the carvings of the buttresses were injured. The whole façade was
moreover pitted by shell-splinters.

The damage caused in 1918 was considerably greater. In some places the
stone-work of the portals and towers was entirely destroyed, and in
others indented more or less deeply. The fine and delicate carvings of
the towers were also smashed. The north tower suffered most. A breach,
jeopardizing its stability, was made almost the whole way up, and the
upper part of the spire fell to the ground, like the other spire had
done four years before. The interior vaulting which connected the two
towers, partially fell in.

At the back of the façade (_photo above_) which was also struck in
several places, there are still traces of the first bay of the old nave
of the abbey-church, pulled down under the Empire.

[Illustration: WESTERN GALLERY OF THE CLOISTER.
_Seen from Doorway. Nov. 1918._]


The Great Cloister of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes.

Under the south portal stands a 13th century doorway, with vaulting
and tympanums decorated with finely carved foliage, which led from the
abbey-church to the great cloister.

Of the great 14th century cloister, only the south and west galleries
remain. Each has seven bays with pointed arches resting, on one side,
on brackets ornamented with foliage or human figures, and on the
other, on piers surrounded by small columns (_photos above and below_).

The large arches in tierce-point, ornamented with fine mouldings and
separated by highly-wrought buttresses, formed an inner arcade composed
of two bays surmounted by a rose-window. Traces of it are left in
three bays of the south gallery (_photo below_). The arches formerly
contained windows.

[Illustration: SOUTHERN GALLERY OF THE CLOISTER, NOV. 1918.]

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE SOUTHERN GALLERY, NOV. 1918.]

The cloister, especially the south end, was often struck by German
shells, one piercing the vaulting of a bay, another damaging the
carvings of the exterior buttresses.


The Refectory.

The refectory (_photo below_), erected at the end of the 13th century,
was spoiled after the Revolution by its conversion to military uses.

[Illustration: REAR SIDE OF THE FAÇADE, CLOISTER AND REFECTORY, NOV.
1918.]

[Illustration: WESTERN GALLERY OF THE CLOISTER AND THE REFECTORY.]

The refectory, over 130 feet in length, contains two naves with
pointed vaulting. The pointed arches rest on fine columns with
foliate capitals, which are buttressed outside by piers engaged in
the stone-work. Like all monastery refectories, it has a raised and
vaulted platform, from which one of the monks read aloud during meals.

The refectory, used as a store-house, is divided into two stories by a
floor which runs below the capitals of the columns.

Outside the refectory, on the side next the cloister, were six large
rose-windows, since transformed into small rectangular windows, and on
the west front, eight tierce-point windows, now blocked up.

At the base of the loft-roof, set at intervals, are dormer-windows,
whereof one Renaissance.

The roof, damaged in places, was completely destroyed by the
bombardments over several of the bays. A large breach, already
repaired, was made in the end bay on the east side. One buttress
was destroyed and the adjacent part of the framework of one of the
rose-windows broken (_photo above_).

The great cloister communicated on the east with a small cloister,
rebuilt about 1550 in Renaissance style, of which several bays of the
south gallery remain standing.

Lastly, on this side of the façade of the church, to the east, is a
building, re-erected in the 16th century for the Abbot’s residence, but
which has been completely disfigured by its adaptation for military
purposes. It is flanked by an octagonal turret containing a staircase.

       *       *       *       *       *

_On leaving the Abbey, take the Rue Saint-Jean on the right, as far as
the Place Dauphine_, in which is the =Sous-Préfecture=, housed in a
mansion built at the beginning of the 19th century. It was struck by
numerous shells.

[Illustration: THE RUE DES MINIMES.]

_Take on the left the Rue de Panleu_ which runs alongside the buildings
of the old =Grand Séminaire= (late 17th century), whose 18th century
chapel is decorated with beautiful painted and gilded woodwork, greatly
damaged.

Many shells fell on the Grand Séminaire, causing serious damage. A
great part of the roofing was destroyed and in places large openings
were torn in the walls.

At the north-west end of the park of the Grand Séminaire, excavations
made in the 19th century, now filled in, uncovered the remains of a
Roman amphitheatre. These remains indicated a theatre of very large
dimensions, measuring about 470 feet across its greatest width, while
the theatre at Orange measures little over 300 feet.

_Return to the Cathedral via the Rue de la Buerie, a continuation of
the Rue de Panleu. On the right is_ the Rue des Minimes with its burnt
houses (_photo above_).

[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL QUARTER IN 1917.
_In the background: the Cathedral Tower still standing._]



FIRST ITINERARY—VISIT TO THE SURROUNDINGS

[Illustration]


Starting-point: Place de la Cathédrale.

_The following itinerary includes the defensive works of
Saint-Crépin-en-Chaye and Le Mail, the first French and German lines
from Pasly to Saint-Paul, and the bridge-head on the right bank of the
Aisne, in front of the Faubourg Saint-Waast._

       *       *       *       *       *

Starting from the =Cathedral=, follow the streets indicated by
=continuous lines= in the direction of the arrows.

The =numbers= indicate the =pages= where the corresponding
=photographs= will be found.

[Illustration: _Follow the Rue de la Buerie to the Rue
Saint-Christophe, which take to the left as far as the place
Saint-Christophe. To the north of this square take the Boulevard
Pasteur, follow its continuation (a narrow road) which leads direct to
the_ =Château de Saint-Crépin-en-Chaye= (_see outline map, p. _52).]

Numerous defensive works surrounded this chateau and the farm belonging
to it. These buildings, now entirely in ruins, occupied the site of an
abbey founded in the 12th century.

[Illustration: CHATEAU OF ST-CRÉPIN-EN-CHAYE.
_January 1919._

_On the left: ruins of farm and bomb-proof shelter; on the right:
trench leading to the Château seen in the background through the
trees._]

[Illustration: THE MAIL BEFORE THE WAR.]

_After visiting Saint-Crépin, take the road (_V.O._ 15), along which
ran strong defence-works and which leads to the Promenade du Mail.
Follow the promenade towards the town as far as Pont-Neuf._

The Promenade du Mail, extending from the Hôtel-de-Ville to Vauxrot,
contained a trench throughout its entire length which led to the front
lines in the northern sector.

The Mail, bordered by the river Aisne and planted with century-old
trees, dates from the 17th and 18th centuries, and before the War was
one of the finest public gardens in France.

It was completely spoilt by formidable defence-works. A series of
trenches, strengthened by defence-works of every kind and by strong
points such as the Brasserie du Mail on the Bank of the Aisne, began in
the middle of the Mail. They branched out at the end of the Promenade
into a great number of outposts, blockhouses and observation posts,
from which the naked eye could discern the entrenchments of the
camouflaged German outposts on the right bank of the Aisne.

Communication with the Allies’ bridge-head on both banks was ensured by
foot-bridges, constantly under fire, and temporary ways over the two
partially destroyed bridges.

[Illustration: THE MAIL DURING THE WAR.

_In the background: the band-stand near which General de Grandmaison
was killed._]

[Illustration: THE PONT-NEUF, BLOWN UP BY THE BRITISH.]

_Cross the Aisne at the_ =Pont-Neuf=.

The Pont-Neuf or Pont-du-Mail, over which passes the National Road (N^o
2) from Paris to Maubeuge, was built in 1903 of reinforced concrete.

On September 1, 1914, the British blew up the middle arch. It was
subsequently found possible to contrive a crossing over the broken
arch, hidden from the view of the enemy by the gaily coloured tents
of a travelling show which happened to be in Soissons when war was
declared (_photo below_).

[Illustration: THE PONT-NEUF CAMOUFLAGED.]

[Illustration: THE DISTILLERY IN 1917.

_The French First Line in the Distillery._]


_From the Pont-Neuf, take the Avenue de Laon to the Place de Laon, then
take the Avenue de Vauxrot on the left to Vauxrot and Pasly._ (_See
map, p. _53 _and Itinerary, p. _52)

_About half-a-mile from the Place de Laon_ are the ruins of a large
=distillery= which formed the first French position and was strongly
fortified.

[Illustration: THE DISTILLERY IN 1918.]

[Illustration: THE GLASS-WORKS AT VAUXROT.

_In the foreground: A German grave._

_The German First Line in the Glass-Works._]

On the north of the distillery, beyond “No man’s land” with its
barbed-wire entanglements, a very important =glass-works= formed the
first German line. Before the war, these glass-works turned out several
millions of champagne bottles every year. _A heap of these bottles is
visible in the photo below._

Between the buildings of these works, now completely ruined by
the incessant bombardments, are countless passages and trenches
of reinforced concrete, observation posts, blockhouses, concrete
machine-gun positions and deep dug-outs.

[Illustration: THE GLASS-WORKS OF VAUXROT.

_In the background: Hill 136._]

[Illustration: THE BANKS OF THE AISNE.

_In the background: Chapel of the Glass-Works. To the left of the
Chapel, a German Machine-Gun was posted, below a crane._]

From Vauxrot to Pasly, the lines were separated by the Aisne. On
both banks of the river were outposts and advanced trenches with
machine-guns (_photo below_).

_From Vauxrot, proceed to Pasly_ (_see map, p. _53).

From the church at Pasly there is an interesting walk to the caves
seen in the photograph on p. 59 shutting in the horizon to the north
of the village. _Follow the road for nearly half-a-mile, then turn to
the right into the road which goes up the side of the hill and skirts
the caves. The latter were fortified by the Germans, and afterwards
inhabited by the population of Pasly._

[Illustration: THE DAM AT VAUXROT.

_A nest of Machine-Guns was posted near the pile._]

[Illustration: PASLY.

_On the horizon Hill containing caves._]

A =monument= to the school-teachers shot by the Germans in 1870, was
destroyed by the enemy in 1914 (_photo below_).

[Illustration: SCHOOL-TEACHERS’ MONUMENT DESTROYED BY THE GERMANS AT
PASLY.
(_see above_)]

_The road leads back to the village. Return via Vauxrot to the Place de
Laon, then follow on the left the Avenue de Laon to Saint-Paul._

The defence-works visited between Pasly, the glass-works and the
distillery, extended from there in an almost straight and formidable
entrenched line to the National Road from Paris to Maubeuge (N. 2).

[Illustration: ORGANIZED CAVE AT PASLY.]

After crossing this road, about half-way between Soissons and Crouy,
they encircle the =hamlet of St-Paul= on the north and east. This
fortified hamlet formed the =Saint-Paul salient= and protected the
faubourg of Saint-Waast.

[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO CAVE AT PASLY.]

From Saint-Paul the trenches, sloping towards the south, extended in
front of the strongly fortified Faubourg of Saint-Médard and rejoined
the Aisne at the point where the river forms a great loop above
Soissons. It was the eastern sector of the defences, covering alike the
Faubourg of Saint-Waast and the bridge-head on the right bank.

_To go from Saint-Paul to Saint-Médard, return to the Place de Laon.
Take on the left the Boulevard de Laon, then the Boulevard de Metz
which continues it, to the Place d’Alsace-Lorraine. Take the Rue de
Bouvines on the left to the_ =Abbey of Saint-Médard=.

The Faubourg of Saint-Médard is as old as the town itself. In fact,
it existed in the Roman era, and later became one of the favorite
residences of the Merovingian Kings, who owned a large “villa” there.

[Illustration: DESTROYED BRIDGE OVER THE AISNE.

_This bridge connected Pasly with Soissons._]

[Illustration: IN THE ST-PAUL SALIENT.]

About 556, Clotaire I had the greatly revered Bishop of Noyon,
Saint-Médard, buried in this villa, and erected over his grave a
basilica, round which a monastery was built.

After playing an important part in the history of the early
Middle-Ages, this monastery attracted 300 000 pilgrims as late as 1530.
The buildings were devastated during the many sieges to which Soissons
was subjected. Rebuilt in the 17th, they were converted in the 19th
century into a school for deaf-mutes and the blind.

Of the ancient buildings, there remains only a =crypt=, one of the
oldest in France and of great archæological interest.

Built in the 9th century and measuring about 80 feet in length, 8 feet
in width and 13 feet in height, this crypt (_photo below_) includes a
central gallery with groined vault, off which open chapels.

The vaulting rests on very thick walls, in which small niches have been
hollowed out as seats for the pilgrims.

[Illustration: THE CRYPT OF ST-MÉDARD.

_One of the oldest crypts in France._]

[Illustration: CHURCH OF ST-WAAST IN 1917.]

_Return to the Place d’Alsace-Lorraine, take the Rue du Champ-Bouillant
as far as the first street on the right_ (_Rue Messire-P.-Leroy_)
_which leads to the_ =Church of Saint-Waast=.

[Illustration: FAUBOURG ST-WAAST.

_Defence-Works in the Rue des Graviers, near the Church_ (_see
Itinerary_).]

The church of Saint-Waast, built in the 19th century, consists of a
large central pile with aisles on each side of the nave. A graceful
belfry, ending in a spire, rises over the portal. The interior of the
building is not vaulted, but has a timber-work roof. The arches are
supported by square pillars and the walls ornamented with pictures.

The bombardments did great damage. Everywhere the roof was broken in
and a large part completely destroyed. In the walls are numerous gaps,
while the façade is pitted by shell-splinters. The belfry, very badly
damaged on the first story, had two of its sides in the upper story
completely demolished. The spire fell down in 1918. The interior of the
main building suffered less, but the timber-work roof was badly damaged.

The Faubourg Saint-Waast led to the first lines of the north-east
sector of Soissons, which passed north of the hamlet of Saint-Paul.

Because of its situation, it had been put in a complete state of
defence and was continually bombarded. The railway station, gas-works
and most of the factories were destroyed. In places, it is nothing more
than a heap of ruins with, here and there, vestiges of the old military
works.

_Return to the Rue du Champ-Bouillant, follow same as far as the Aisne,
crossing the latter at the Pont Saint-Waast._

[Illustration: THE PONT ST-WAAST OR PONT DES ANGLAIS.

_In the background, the Pont-Neuf, Sep^t. 1914._]

The pont Saint-Waast, also called the Pont des Anglais (since the war)
dates from the Middle-Ages (_photo above_). Of the original structure
there remain the arches on the Saint-Waast side (restored). The rest of
the bridge consists of an iron platform which the Germans destroyed on
September 13, 1914, when they evacuated the town.

Rebuilt by the British in 1914, together with a foot-bridge, it
ensured communication between the centre of the town and the Faubourg
Saint-Waast, in spite of incessant bombardments.

_Return to the Cathedral by the Rue la Bannière, Rue de Montrevers, and
Rue de l’Hôtel-Dieu._



              CONTENTS


  =Chief Historical Facts=           2

  =First German Occupation=, 1914    4

  =Second German Occupation=, 1918   7

  =The Bombardments=                10

  =A Thirty-Months’ Siege=          11


            VISIT TO THE CITY

  =The Cathedral=                15–31

  =St-Léger Church=              35–39

  =The Hôtel-de-Ville=           40–41

  =St-Pierre-au-Parvis Church=      42

  =Maison de l’Arquebuse=           43

  =St-Jean-des-Vignes Abbey=     44–50


         VISIT TO THE SURROUNDINGS

  =St-Crépin-en-Chaye Château=      53

  =Vauxrot-Pasly=                56–60

  =Saint-Paul—Saint-Médard=      60–61

  =Faubourg St-Waast=            62–63

[Illustration: STREET DEFENCE-WORKS IN THE FAUBOURG ST-WAAST.]



‘OFFICE NATIONAL DU TOURISME’

_17, Rue de Surène, PARIS-8^e_


The ‘Office National du Tourisme’ was created by Act of Parliament on
April 8th 1910, and reorganized in 1917. It enjoys civil privileges and
financial autonomy.

It is directed by an Administrative Council chosen by the Minister of
Public Works.

Its mission is to seek out every means of developing travel; to urge,
and if necessary to take any measure capable of ameliorating the
conditions of the transport, circulation and sojourn of tourists.

It co-ordinates the efforts of touring societies and industries,
encourages them in the execution of their programmes and stimulates
legislative and administrative initiative with regard to the
development of travel in France.

It promotes understanding between the Public Services, the great
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It organises propaganda in foreign countries; and tends towards the
creation of Travel Inquiry Offices in France and abroad, with a view
to making known the scenery and monuments of France, as well as the
health-giving powers of French mineral waters, spas and bathing places.


ALL INQUIRIES WITH REGARD TO TRAVELLING SHOULD BE ADDRESSED TO THE
‘TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE’

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THE ‘TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE’


WHAT IS IT? WHAT ARE ITS USES?

The ‘Touring-Club de France’ (founded in 1890), is at the present time
the largest Touring Association in the whole world. Its principal aim
is to introduce France—admirable country and one of the loveliest on
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It seeks to develop travel in all its forms: on foot, on horseback, on
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Every member of the Association receives a badge and an identity ticket
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Members have also the benefit of special prices in a certain number of
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line). The ‘Comité des Contentieux’ is ready to give them counsel with
regard to travelling, and 3.000 delegates in all the principal towns
are able to give them advice and information about the curiosities of
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hotels, motor-agents, garages, etc.

Members are accorded free passage across the frontier for a bicycle
or motor-bicycle. For a motor-car the Association gives a ‘Triptyque’
ensuring free passage through the ‘douane’, etc.


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Drop a line, ring us up, or call at one of our Touring Offices and you
will receive a carefully worked out description of the route to follow.



Transcriber’s Notes.

1. Silently corrected simple spelling, grammar, and typographical
errors.

2. Retained anachronistic and non-standard spellings as printed.

3. Some of the illustrations have been moved to be closer to their
descriptions.

4. In this eBook some illustrations have been moved to other pages. The
text has been changed where necessary.




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