Title: Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet
Author: Anonymous
Language: English
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Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet


[Illustration]

       Published by
Needlecraft Publishing Company
      Augusta, Maine
           1918

       *       *       *       *       *

[Illustration: Handbook of Crochet]

_You can crochet the most fascinating things imaginable if you have this_

Handbook of Crochet

By Emma Chalmers Monroe

This book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. It contains most
valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets or
wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. It embodies a very careful
selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, every
successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect
results are a certainty.

It describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use
of crochet and gives instructions and patterns for Edgings, Borders,
Scarf-Ends, Insertions, Yokes, Lunch-Sets, Doilies, etc.

The book has twenty-eight pages (size 7×10 inches) and 44 illustrations.
It is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors.

Your copy of Emma Chalmers Monroe's Handbook of Crochet will be sent
you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. It can be
obtained only from us.

Needlecraft
Augusta--Maine



Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet



A Lesson in Knitting


[Illustration: Figure 1. Casting on with Two Needles]

The first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is
sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (Figure 1). There are
several methods for this, the following being that preferred and
generally used by the writer: Leave a spare end of thread, sufficient
for the number of stitches you wish to cast on, lying toward the left,
the spool or ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the
right. Lay the thread between the little finger and the third of the
left hand; bring the working-thread across the palm of the hand, around
the thumb and back between the forefinger and second finger; bend the
forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and the second
finger), pass it under the thread which crosses the palm of the hand,
and then draw the forefinger back, or straighten it, which will give you
a loop with crossed threads. Put the needle under the lower part of this
loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread (or
ball-thread) around the point of needle from right to left, as in plain
knitting, draw it back through the loop, slip off the latter, and draw
up the left thread. Then proceed to make the crossed loop and knit it
off in the same way for the next and following stitches. The whole
operation is very simple, although the instructions seem long because
explicit. Take your needle and yarn or thread and follow them through
carefully, and you will very soon master the "crossed casting on."

Another method, preferred by many and practically the same in effect,
except that the edge is not quite so firm, is as follows: Loop the
thread around the left forefinger, holding the spare end between thumb
and second finger, pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the
thread around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the latter
and pull up the spare thread. By passing the needle under the loop, or
lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then
knitting off, you will really get the crossed loop, and many find this
method easier than the first. The thread used in casting on may be
doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or any article
where much wear comes.

Casting on may also be done with two needles, and many like this method
when there are many stitches. Twist a loop around the needle held in the
left hand, bring the end of thread, or spare thread, to the front,
crossing the working-thread to hold it in place--or, if preferred,
simply tie a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the
right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread around
point of right needle and draw through the loop, bringing the right
needle again in front of left. Thus far, the process is quite like that
of plain knitting. Keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or
loop, transfer the stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in
front and putting the point through the loop from front to back, leaving
the right needle in place for the next stitch; the loops are not slipped
off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, so that all are kept on the
needle. A little practise will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly
and evenly.

[Illustration: Figure 2. Knitting Plain]

The plain knitting (Figure 2), is done as follows: Having cast on the
requisite number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front
of left needle from left to right, the right needle passing behind the
left; carry the thread around point of right needle and bring it down
between the two needles, then draw the point of right needle back and
through the stitch, forming the new stitch on right needle and letting
the other slip off the left, pushing down the point of left needle to
facilitate this process; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off
and the row is complete. Where there are edges to be joined, as in
knitting back and fronts of a sweater, it is a good plan to slip the
first stitch of each row.

Right here a suggestion about the method of holding the thread may be of
value: By the first method the thread is carried over the little finger
of right hand, under second and third fingers and over the tip of the
forefinger, which should be held close to the work; it is this finger
which passes the thread over point of right needle for the new stitch.
By another method the thread is carried over the left forefinger, under
second and third and over the little finger, exactly as it is held for
crocheting: insert the right needle through 1st stitch on left needle in
usual way, push it over the thread on left forefinger, and draw this
back through the stitch with the point of right needle. Only the needle
is held in the right hand, and many workers claim that the work is much
more rapidly done.

[Illustration: Figure 3. Purling]

The purl- or seam-stitch (Figure 3) is the exact reverse of plain
knitting, both as to method of work and appearance, being in reality the
wrong side of plain knitting. In the latter the thread is kept at the
back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two
needles. Put the point of right needle through the front of 1st stitch
on left needle from right to left, the right needle being thus brought
in front of the left; pass the thread around the front of right needle
from right to left and back between needles, then push down the point
and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward, as in
plain knitting, the right needle being thus brought behind the left.
Slip off the old stitch as usual, and take care to return the thread to
its place at the back before beginning to knit plain again.

[Illustration: Figure 4. Garter-Stitch, or Ridge-Stitch]

Garter-stitch, so called (Figure 4) is simply plain knitting back and
forth, which gives the effect of ridges, one row knit, the next purled.
This is a stitch much used for sweaters, and other knitted garments. If
one wishes to have the right side appear as in plain knitting, the 1st
row must be knitted plain, the next purled. Since one is the reverse of
the other, the right side will be plain knitting, the wrong side
purled.

[Illustration: Figure 5. The Double Rib]

The rib-stitch is alternately plain and purled. To knit the single rib,
* knit 1, purl 1; repeat. For double rib, (Figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2;
repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. Any width of rib
may be made that is liked, always taking care--unless knitting in
rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking--to knit the stitches purled
on the preceding row, and purl the knitted ones. There are a large
variety of fancy patterns made by combining plain knitting and purling,
such as the basket-stitch and others, of even or broken "check."

There are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the
common garter-stitch gives a particularly good effect if knitted from
the back. Put the needle in from right to left, through the back part of
the stitch to be knitted; leave the thread behind the needle, then pass
it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the stitch,
allowing the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. In this stitch the
two threads of the loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side as in
plain knitting.

[Illustration: Figure 6. Making "Overs"]

"Overs" (Figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and many times in
fancy designs for wool knitting. To make an "over" bring the thread
before the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch plain as
usual. This brings a loop over the needle, which in the next row is to
be knitted as any stitch, thus increasing the number of stitches in the
row. In case it is not desired to increase the stitches, one must
narrow, by knitting two stitches together, once for every "over." If a
larger hole is wanted, the thread is put twice over the needle, and in
the following one of these loops is knitted, the other purled.

To "purl-narrow," or purl two together, bring the thread to the front as
for purling, then to form the extra stitch, carry the thread back over
the needle and to the front again; then insert the right needle through
two stitches instead of one, and knit them as one stitch. "Fagot" is an
abbreviation frequently used for this.

[Illustration: Figure 7. Binding Off]

To slip and bind, slip 1st stitch from left needle to the right needle,
without knitting it; knit next stitch, then draw the stitch on right
needle over the knitted one, letting it fall between needles. To slip,
narrow and bind, slip first stitch, knit next two together, and draw the
slipped stitch over. To cast off or bind off, (Figure 7,) slip 1st
stitch, knit next, draw slipped stitch over, knit next stitch, draw the
previous knitted stitch over, and continue, taking care that the chain
of stitches thus cast off be neither too tight nor too loose, but just
as elastic as the remainder of the work.



A Sleeveless Sweater


[Illustration: A Sleeveless Sweater]

A sleeveless sweater, as pretty as it is comfortable, requires six
skeins of Shetland floss and a pair of No. 5 amber needles. Pink floss
was chosen for the model, but any preferred color may be substituted.

Cast on 85 stitches; knit in basket-stitch, as follows:

1. * Knit 5, purl 5; repeat across, ending with knit 5.

2. Purl 5, knit 5; repeat across, ending with purl 5.

Repeat these two rows twice, making 6 rows in all; then to change the
check knit 7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, repeat twice, and again change
the check by repeating from 1st row. Continue until the border is five
checks deep, or 30 rows.

Knit across plain and purl back for 84 rows; narrow 1 stitch each side
every other row, three times, for the armhole, leaving 79 stitches on
your needle, and giving 89 rows from the border. Knit across plain and
purl back for 38 rows; putting these stitches on a large safety-pin for
convenience, knit 31, bind off 17 stitches for neck, and on the
remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, to give
the effect of a seam on the shoulder. Continue the front, knitting
across and purling back, adding a stitch toward the front each time to
make the neck V-shaped, for 38 rows; then add 1 stitch at the armhole,
and next row cast on 8 stitches for underarm. Do not widen further
toward the front, but continue knitting forward and purling back for 85
rows; then make the border of 30 rows, five checks wide, to correspond
with the back, and bind off. Knit the other front to correspond.

Pick up the stitches around armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, purl 5 for 6
rows, making an edge of checks; bind off. Pick up the stitches on front,
to the center of back of neck, about 175 in all, make a row of checks to
correspond with the arm, and bind; work a border in the same way on
other side of front, and sew neatly at back of neck, also join the
underarm seams, taking care to match the checks of the border perfectly.

For the belt: Cast on 25 stitches, and proceed as directed for the
border until you have the desired length; the belt illustrated is 42
checks long. Across one end crochet 3 chain loops, filling these with
doubles, and sew to the other end three pearl buttons to match. The belt
is caught along the top in the back, giving the short-waisted effect.



Costume for the Winter-Girl


[Illustration: Costume for the Winter-Girl]

Materials: Thirteen skeins of Shetland floss (dark rose was used for the
model, but any preferred color may be substituted), three balls of gray
Angora, one pair each of bone knitting-needles, No. 3 and No. 5, and a
steel crochet-hook, No. 6.

For the sweater: Using No. 5 needles, cast on for the back 100 stitches
(these will measure 20 inches). Knit plain, back and forth (which will
give you ridges or ribs) for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each
end of needle every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76
stitches on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline);
knit on these stitches for 9½ inches from the waistline, then
decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 times, or
until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches until the back
measures 15½ inches from the waistline. Knit 25 stitches off on a
spare needle, bind off 20 stitches for back of neck, and on the other 25
stitches knit one front after the following directions, and the other to
correspond.

Front: Knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch toward the front
every other row until you have added 6 stitches; cast on 7 stitches more
toward the front, giving 38 stitches on the needle; knit in ridges,
increasing 1 stitch toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches
have been added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making 60
stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). Knit on the 60 stitches for
9½ inches, then increase 1 stitch every 8th row toward the underarm-
or side-seam, until the latter is of the same length as that of the
back, including the 2 inches. Do not bind off. Knit other front to
correspond and sew up side-seams.

With a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front (have an uneven
number of stitches on needle), and on another spare needle pick up the
stitches across the back; on another pick up the stitches of front,
having the same number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch
on needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which will be the
corner stitch.

1. With bone needles No. 5 start at top of left front, knit 1, * over,
narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, over, knit the corner
stitch, again repeat from * to next corner, over, knit corner stitch,
repeat from * until but 1 stitch remains, over, knit last stitch.

2. Knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the place of
narrowed one.

3. Knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, knit to next
corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and knit plain to end of
row.

Repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows from the
beginning.

In next row make the buttonholes thus: Knit 2 stitches from the neck,
bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then knit 13, bind off 4, and
repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 stitches apart. In next row cast on 4
stitches over where they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for
4 more ridges, and bind off.

Sleeves.--Cast on 34 stitches (about 7½ inches); knit in ridges,
casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every other row until there
are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease
1 stitch at each end of needle every 12th row until there are 56
stitches remaining on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17
inches, or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13
ridges for cuff, then with gray Angora and No. 3 needles knit 7 ridges,
bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs.

Collar.--Using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around neck of sweater
(not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not bind off. With a spare needle
pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on each end of collar; with gray Angora
and No. 3 needles repeat 3d and 2d rows alternately for border until
there are 7 ridges, and bind off.

Pockets.--Cast on 28 stitches; knit in ridges for 4 inches, change to
Angora and No. 3 needles, knit 7 ridges, making a buttonhole in 4th
ridge at center of pocket, bind off and sew the pocket neatly in place
on the sweater. Sew the sleeves in.

Belt.--With dark rose cast on 23 stitches (about 4½ inches), knit in
ridges until the belt is the width of the back at waistline, bind off
and sew in place with two buttons at each side.

Buttons.--With dark rose, chain 3, turn; miss 1 stitch, 8 doubles in
next; 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in
next; repeat from * until the circle is of a size to cover the mold,
work 1 row without widening, slip the mold in, * work around with 1
double in a stitch, miss 1, repeating from last * until closed. If
preferred, a small square may be knitted like the body of the sweater
and used to cover mold.

The skating-cap is 23 inches head-size, and requires three skeins of the
dark-rose floss, two balls of gray Angora wool and 4 steel needles No.
8.

Using the Angora wool, cast on 136 stitches; knit 45 on each of 2
needles and 46 stitches on the 3d, and knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
1) in rounds for 1½ inches, change to the rose floss and knit in
single rib for 1 inch; change to Angora, again knit in single rib for
1½ inches; change to rose floss and knit in single rib until the top
measures 14½ inches, then bind off and draw together, leaving
sufficient opening for the tassel to be sewed in.

Tassel.--Using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 inches long, tie
in the center, fold where tied and tie again below. Sew the tassel at
top of cap.

Scarf.--Materials required are four skeins of dark rose Shetland floss,
two balls of gray Angora wool, and one pair each of No. 3 and No. 5 bone
knitting-needles. With gray Angora wool and No. 3 needles cast on 60
stitches, and knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and
knit 7 ridges, change to Angora wool and No. 3 needles, and again knit 7
ridges, change to rose floss and No. 5 needles and knit for 50 inches,
or length of scarf desired; then, as at beginning, knit 7 ridges of
Angora, 7 ridges of rose and again 7 ridges of Angora; bind off.

Knitted Gloves.--Materials required are three skeins of Shetland floss,
and four steel knitting-needles, No. 12. Use two threads of the floss at
once.

Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit in single rib (knit 1, purl
1) for 44 rounds, or until the wrist is as long as desired, then knit 16
rounds plain.

61. Knit to within 4 stitches of end of round, widen 1, knit 4, widen 1.

62, 63, 64, 65. Knit plain.

Repeat the last 5 rounds, increasing 2 stitches every 5th round until
you have 10 stitches between the two widening points, and 58 stitches on
the needles.

To form the thumb, knit 7 stitches on each of 2 needles and cast on 4
stitches between the widening points, thus making 18 stitches on 3
needles.

Knit 22 rounds plain. * Narrow, knit 1; repeat around; knit 1 round
plain; repeat from *. Narrow until the thumb is closed, draw the wool
through, and leave an end to fasten down on the wrong side.

Pick up the 4 stitches cast on at base of thumb, making 48 stitches on
the hand. Knit 15 rounds, then divide the stitches as follows: Slip 24
stitches on one knitting-needle for top of hand starting from the 3d
cast-on stitch at beginning of thumb, and the remaining 24 stitches for
palm of hand on another needle.

First Finger: Knit 6 stitches from top of hand, slip remaining 18
stitches on a safety-pin, also 18 stitches from palm of hand on another
safety-pin, cast on 3 stitches for between fingers, knit remaining 6
from palm of hand, making 15 stitches in all, on these knit 30 rounds,
and finish off as directed for the thumb.

Second Finger: Knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast on 3 stitches,
knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches cast on at
base of first finger, making 19 stitches on needle; * knit 1 round
plain; knit to last 2 stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches
picked up, narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining
knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like the thumb.

Third Finger: Knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of hand, cast on 3
stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches at base of
second finger, making 18 stitches in all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed
for 2d finger, knit 25 more rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow
off as thumb.

Fourth Finger: Knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 needle, 6 stitches
from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches at base of 3d finger on 3d
needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 stitches, then narrow off as the thumb.

These directions are for the left glove. Knit the right glove in same
way to where you divide the stitches for the fingers; then remember that
the palm of the glove must be toward you, the thumb on the right-hand
side. So you would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit
7 from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left glove.



Children's Knitted Sets


Set No. 1

[Illustration: Set No. 1]

Hood.--Cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for 70 rows, or 35
ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, and bind off evenly. Sew up
the edge where you cast on for the back of the hood. Fold the border
back its width, and pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6
ribs back of it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and
the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit 4, over,
narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. This row forms the holes for the
cord. Knit back plain, knit 3 more ribs and bind off.

The hood may be of any desired size by casting on any number of
stitches, and knitting just half that number of ribs.

Scarf.--Cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); knit 14
ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of blue; then knit
34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue with the other end as at
first, reversing the order. Knot fringe of the two colors in at each
end.

Sweater.--Cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or double rib) for
two inches. Knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 ribs, if you knit back and
forth; the model was knitted forward and purled back, to give the work
the appearance of plain knitting on the right side). Cast on 42 stitches
for sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other sleeve; knit
30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches off on an extra needle,
bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 65 stitches work 12
rows; then cast on 13 stitches toward the front and on this length knit
28 rows, bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the
remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the other front
to correspond, slip all the stitches on one needle, knit until the front
is as long as the back, and finish with the double rib for two inches;
bind off evenly.

Using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve and knit back
and forth for 12 rows; bind off. Sew up the sleeves and underarm seams
and turn back the cuffs.

For the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, knit 8 rows of
gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off.

Work around edge of collar and down the front opening with double
crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with cord, ends finished
with balls or tassels.


Set No. 2

[Illustration: Set No. 2]

Jacket.--Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26
stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other
sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for
the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the
front. Knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a
stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will
give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26
stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back.

Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams,
work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and
around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch,
miss space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3
chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st
and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. Finish edge of sleeves
in the same way, and run in cord and balls.

For the Hood.--Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color
and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish
around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using
color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells
of gray, as for jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of
yarn.

The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as
preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's
delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. Surely
it seems a very sensible way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as
the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the
other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn
together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say
the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same
hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the
yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the
left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch
up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you
would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot (which ties the
two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the
loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the position of
the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as
formerly in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of right hand
through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it
through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot
and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has
learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags,
lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord.



A Serviceable Sweater


[Illustration: A Serviceable Sweater]

Use fourfold Germantown zephyr and a pair of No. 5 needles, with one
pair two sizes smaller. As the sizes or numbers of needles vary, and
also do methods of knitting, it is a good plan to work a little block
before beginning the pattern. Cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and
purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. There
should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven rows should make an
inch in length. If you get less, use larger needles, say No. 6.

It is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so that you
will become familiar with it and can narrow or widen and still keep the
ridge. Cast on any number of stitches divisible by four, with one stitch
over, knit 2, purl 2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. All
rows are the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a ridge.
When you come to the decreasing later you can tell whether you are
keeping the pattern correct, by watching the knitted stitch, which forms
a sort of chain right on top of the ridge, and must be kept throughout.

Left front: Cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles and knit 12 rows
plain for the band at lower edge.

13. Knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), *
purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last stitch.

14. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10.
Repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in all.

111. Knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern.

112. In pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these.

113. Knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern.

114. In pattern, knitting last 8 stitches.

115. Knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern.

116. Like 114th, knitting 7 at end.

117. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern.

118. Like 114th, knitting last 6.

119. Knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern.

120. Bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of end, knit
these.

121. Knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern.

122. Like 120th row, knitting 4 at end.

123. Knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern.

124. Like 120th row, knitting 3 at end.

125, 127, 129. Like 123d row.

126, 128. Bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit
these.

130. Knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these.

Continue to work until you have completed the 171st row, doing the odd
rows like the 123d and even rows like 130th, when you should have 23
stitches on the needle. From this point work until you have completed
the 183d row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows by
knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. You should
then have 20 stitches on the needle. Knit one plain row (the 184th) and
bind off.

Right front: Begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows.

13. Knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting last
stitch.

14. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl 1, knit 10.
Repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in all.

28. Knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches remaining, knit
3, bind off 3, knit 4.

29. Knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. This forms the
buttonhole. Make five buttonholes at equal distances apart, and begin
the narrowing for collar in the 11th row, continuing like left front.

Back: Cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the
pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which brings the work to the
armhole.

121. Bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, taking care to
keep the pattern. Repeat this row seven times, when you will have taken
8 stitches from each side. Knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63
stitches.

177, 178. Knit in pattern until within 7 stitches of the end; turn,
leaving these stitches on left-hand needle without knitting.

179, 180. Knit in pattern to within 13 stitches of the end (including
the 7 stitches previously left), turn.

181, 182. Knit in pattern to within 19 stitches of end, turn.

183. Knit 4, narrow, (knit 5, narrow) twice, knit rest plain, to end of
needle.

184. Knit plain entirely across, and bind off.

Sleeves. Cast on 97 stitches.

1. Knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn.

2. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1,
turn.

3. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit
1, turn.

4. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1,
turn.

5. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3,
turn.

6. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1,
turn.

7. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2,
knit 1, turn.

8. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1,
turn.

9. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3,
turn.

10. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1,
turn.

11. Slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2,
knit 1, turn.

12. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until but 7 stitches
remain, turn.

13. Like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end.

14. Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting last
stitch.

15. Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting last
stitch. Continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at beginning and end of
every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, then knit without decreasing
until you have 120 rows, counting from the 15th row.

Take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the sleeve-stitches as
follows: Slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, (narrow, knit 1) 14 times,
narrow, knit 2, to end of row.

Repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off.

Pockets.--With the larger needles cast on 23 stitches.

1. Knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2.

2. Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1.

3. Slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2.

Repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10
rows plain for top of pocket and bind off.

To make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into
shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a
fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. This will prevent the coat from
drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. For sewing, use a
blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. Sew up the side and
shoulder-seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges
perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as
to pucker the seam in the least. Sew up the sleeves, and place the
sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness
there is around the top. Place the center of collar at center of back
before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the
collar turned over. Sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on
five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter,
to correspond with the buttonholes, placing a small pearl button at the
back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both
together.

This coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. It may easily
be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for
ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly
knitted.

As has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any
stitch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. First, have a coat
cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. Seam it up and try it
on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart.
Fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks
and knit to measure, without stretching your work.



Ladies' Sweater


[Illustration: Ladies' Sweater]

This sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four balls of
Angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray Angora were
combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. The
work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. With
the knitting-worsted and No. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the
back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or
96 rows. Next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. Then change to No.
12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the
belt. Change to No. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch
at end of needle every other row five times. Knit 29 ribs plain, or
without decreasing. Next row, knit 34 stitches, slip them on to a spare
needle, bind off 21 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches,
knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs,
increase 1 stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22
ribs plain. Change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed
for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. Having
completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to No. 5 needles; *
knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. Then knit 48 ribs and bind off
on the wrong side. Knit the other front to correspond, omitting
buttonholes if these are used.

For the sleeve: Working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 stitch on
each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in all; knit 8 ribs, then
decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times.
Change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the
larger (No. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12
ribs, join the Angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off.

Collar: Using No. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65
stitches; knit 28 ribs. Join the Angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1
stitch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. Working on
right side of collar pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11
rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner and keeping
the neck edge even, and bind off. Make the other side of collar to
correspond and sew up the mitered corners. The border of Angora wool may
be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs.

Two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or
crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to
fasten the belt.

For the buttons: Using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a
chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; in
next round make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both veins so there
will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat.
Continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will
cover the button-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of buttons
used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then *
miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. If
preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and
use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening
underneath. For the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn and make a
double in each stitch; fasten securely beneath the button.



Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs


[Illustration: Ladies' Knitted Gloves with Fancy Backs]

Use No. 16 steel needles, with Spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. Cast on
57 stitches.

1. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
knit 6; repeat twice.

2. Purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

3. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

4. Purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat.

5. Same as 4th row.

6. Purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2,
take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of
work, knit next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat.

Continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row,
until the wrist is seven patterns in length. Then carry one cable up
back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across
palm.

Commence thumb at top of wrist. As the gloves are right and left, care
must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the
same hand. On the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the
stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. Begin thumb with
widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen;
continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 stitches.
Put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 stitches, join and knit
once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches,
arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow
at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles
and bind off.

Continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on at base of
thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches on
2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. For the
little finger: Take 8 stitches from back needle and 8 from front, and
cast on 6 stitches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6
stitches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end
of each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind
off.

First Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little finger, knit to
the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6
stitches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds
narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish
off as before.

Third Finger: Pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first finger, knit
them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little finger, putting these
on separate needle, 9 stitches from other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit
until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1
of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches,
and finish off as directed.

Middle Finger: Pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain,
proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches
plain and finish off.



Knitted Slippers with Ermine Trimming


[Illustration: Knitted Bedroom-Slippers with Ermine Trimming]

Materials required are three skeins fourfold Germantown yarn, two
colors, and one yard of ribbon. Pink and white yarn, with a little
black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers illustrated.

Cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles.
Knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join
the color. The square is for the toe of slipper.

Knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long
enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on
other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe.

Darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring
the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss
three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat,
having every other row alternate. This may be done before the strip is
joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. Sew to the sole,
using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. The strip should be
stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling
well to the foot.

For the border: Cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and
forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. Darn with
the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three,
alternating the stitches. Sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on
the bows.

These slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made
to fit any size of sole. For a larger slipper cast on an additional
number of stitches for the square, which will make the strip
proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make
the border wider, if desired. A smaller slipper is begun with less
stitches, following the same general directions.



Babies' Long Bootees


[Illustration: Babies' Long Bootees]

Two colors of Saxony, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel
knitting-needles, No. 14, are required for these bootees.

With color, cast on 57 stitches.

1. Knit plain.

2. With white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3,
over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row.

3. Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; with white
repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 rows plain with color and
2 rows plain with white.

With white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1).

With color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows in single rib;
repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows plain, with color.

With white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; this gives
the appearance of plain knitting on the right side.

Make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: Knit 2, * over 3
times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row. Purl back, dropping
2 of the "overs."

Again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single
rib, completing the leg.

For the instep: Slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join in the
color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. With white knit 1 row and
purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. Repeat last 8 rows three times,
which will give four white stripes and the same of narrow ones, in
color; again knit forward and back with color.

For the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on right-hand
needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of instep, knit 21
across instep, pick up 17 on other side and knit the 18 stitches on left
needle. Knit back and forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. Sew up the
foot and back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces.

These bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as well as pretty.
The ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, so they are not likely to
slip down and off the little feet.



Child's Knitted Mittens


[Illustration: Child's Knitted Mittens]

Use Saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you knit tight or
loose. No. 17 is a good average size. Cast 18 stitches on each of three
needles.

Knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, say two
inches.

For the pattern, knit as follows:

1. Purl.

2, 3, 4. Knit 2, purl 1.

These 4 rows are repeated throughout.

Begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the wrist; to widen
pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and
continue in pattern. Knit 2 rows, in pattern, and again widen, knit 3,
widen, across base of thumb. Continue in this way, adding 2 stitches
between the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible
to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. Knit around
twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches off on a strong thread.

Knit around in pattern, and when you come to the thumb cast on 7
stitches, or one third the number widened for the thumb. Continue
knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then commence
narrowing. The manner in which this is done depends on the shape of the
hand to be fitted. For an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, and
knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit 4 times
around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times around; every 2d stitch and
knit twice around; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around,
narrow every stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and
securely. It is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten on the
wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, since it makes it wear
longer, especially if intended for rough usage. The narrowing of a
child's mitten may begin with every 4th stitch. Also, if the hand is
long and slender, an additional row may be knitted between the widenings
for the thumb.

Take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3d pick up
and knit the stitches across the hand, which were cast on. When knitting
around the first time, narrow once each end of the picked-up stitches.

Even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern until you
reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, beginning with once in 3
stitches. Draw through the last stitches at tip and darn down.



Knee-Cap


[Illustration: Knee-Cap]

Elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic twinges,
appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them will make a most acceptable
gift to grandpa or grandma. No. 12 steel needles and Germantown yarn
were used for the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as
desired, by choosing coarser or finer yarn.

Cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit around 30 times in
single rib--that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. You are now ready to
begin the gore, which may be done in single rib, like the rest, or in
basket-stitch (or other fancy pattern) as in the model.

Take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches idle; take a
stitch from each side every time across until but 42 stitches are left
on both idle needles. Narrow at the end of the busy needle each time
until but 26 stitches are left on the busy needle. Take up 23 stitches
on the selvage at each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three
needles, and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on each
of the needles. Again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind off loosely, and
finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells caught
down in every other stitch.

To knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat for 3 rows,
then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing the 2 plain stitches
exactly in the center of the 6 purled stitches of previous rows. This
change, made after each plain row, gives the woven- or basket-effect,
and the pattern is a very pretty one for sweaters.



Wristers or Pulse-Warmers


[Illustration: Wristers or Pulse-Warmers]

Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those
described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely
exclude the wind. Using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or
quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a
man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and
knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length
required. Bind off loosely.

With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting
a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles;
after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the
next.

Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in 1st space, 3 in
next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are
filled. A very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color,
making a double in each treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be
prettily used for this finish.

A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a
pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over
and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open
with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and
forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.



Motor-Scarf


[Illustration: Motor-Scarf]

This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of
Shetland floss. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink.

1, 3. Purl.

2. Knit plain.

4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3.

5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.

6. Knit plain.

7, 9. With white, purl.

8, 10. Knit plain.

Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The sides are finished
with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center
of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1
double.

Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of
10 threads each of pink and white.



Sport Scarf


[Illustration: Sport Scarf]

A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a body color, with deep
cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes.
Using No. 3½ or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back
and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit
(4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of
brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of
green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3
times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2
of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making
the other end of scarf as directed for first half.

For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand
in each stitch.

For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50
stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will give work much
more open. If desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead
of the colored stripes. In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will
find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a
pleasing study.

Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the
Shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen.



Scarf in Lattice-Stitch


[Illustration: Scarf in Lattice-Stitch]

Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as
required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over.

Knit back and forth 6 times.

7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.

8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs,"
and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to
left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit
the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. Take care the long
stitches are not twisted.

9. 10, 11. Knit plain.

Repeat from 7th row.

Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a
bow of ribbon, as preferred.



Knitting for the Red Cross

(Official Red Cross Photographs)


Sleeveless Sweater

[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater]

Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), fivefold, and a
pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed;
11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl
2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches.
Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28
stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit
plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides,
leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1
row single crochet around armholes.

[Illustration: Sleeveless Sweater before Sides Are Sewed Together]


Washcloth

[Illustration: Washcloth]

White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.

Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10
inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.


Service Sock

[Illustration: Service Sock]

A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs,
with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and
20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ inches.

Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and
purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit
plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam
stitch for four inches.

Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the
seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and
knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th
round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.

For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch,
and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25
rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st
stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2
together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1,
purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1,
turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7,
narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn;
slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together,
purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12,
purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn;
slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow.
Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just
finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the
needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then
knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel.

Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle
knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on
side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit
to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15
stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front
needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.

Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the
following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow,
knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within
3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and
bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3
rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three
times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches
on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and
darning in with a worsted-needle.


One-Piece Helmet

[Illustration: One-Piece Helmet]

One hank of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.

Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece,
and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back.
These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both
pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to
be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added
(making 40 on 1st needle).

Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36.

Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st
needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face
opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for
further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90
stitches for 1½ inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22
stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½
inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st
needle, making 42 on 1st needle).

Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches
together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2
stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of
round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth
round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as
7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2
needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.

Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and
proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:

* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if
knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if
purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle
as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back
needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the
stitches are off the needle.


Muffler

[Illustration: Muffler]

Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No.
5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches,
measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is
sixty-eight inches in length.


Hot-Water-Bottle Cover

[Illustration: Hot-Water-Bottle Cover]

White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.

Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4
inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9½ inches more, or
until entire work measures 13½ inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at
beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen
stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew
together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing
to tie around neck of bottle.


Helmet Made in Two Parts

[Illustration: Helmet Made in Two Parts]

One hank of yarn (¼ pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2.

The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together.

FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25
ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the
opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2,
knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit
2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the stitches before the opening on a
spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2,
purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that
point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face
opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At
the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle,
when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2
for 24 rows.

TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14,
narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d
row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th
row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow,
knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain
knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are
left.

BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face
opening. Sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch.
Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open.


Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet

[Illustration: Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet]

The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn,
gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles.
Nine stitches measure one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2,
for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two
inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or
pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8½ inches long, and sewed
up with no thumb-opening.

Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone
needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3
needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for
thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back
to end of "First" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. Continue
knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at
first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; buttonhole
thumb-opening.


Bed-Sock

[Illustration: Bed-sock]

One hank of yarn (¼ pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2
or steel needles No. 11 or 12.

Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely
for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches
together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each
other. Break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for
finishing one-piece helmet.



Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted


[Illustration: Child's Drawers-Leggings, Knitted]

Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone
needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15.

Cast on 68 stitches.

1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.

17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn.

18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.

Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row
and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle.
Knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side
of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.

Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting
the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end
of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you
have 50 stitches remaining on the needle.

Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of
ankle, thus:

1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit
the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit
10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches
from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn.

2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit
2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.

3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit
7.

Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as
directed in 1st row, every 6th row.

For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on
these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8
ridges. Pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and
forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off.

Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by
the middle seam.

Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings,
thus:

1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat
around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.

2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next;
repeat.

Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels.



A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly


[Illustration: A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly]

Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit
plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6,
knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is
for the front or turnover of the hood.

Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which
to run ribbon.

Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches
distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a
trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib;
repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to
give a good selvage.

Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done
on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as
the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the
ribs the same.

Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described.
Widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number
of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near
extreme end of crown.

Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts,
about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the
crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front;
knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at
lower edge of front.

Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and
tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon.

By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown
proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve
admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted.



A Lesson in Crochet


The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use,
and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself
a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real
slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double
is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is
called treble, and so on.

There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the
thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is
usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. The
following instructions were given by the English teacher in question,
and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very
much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between
the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold
nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of
that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and
second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger,
slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the
third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially
good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and
fluffy as possible.

[Illustration: Figure 1. The Chain-Stitch]

THE CHAIN. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up
the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the
thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the
thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new
stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so
continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop
as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness.
After a little practise one does this without thought. When
abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch.

THE SLIP-STITCH is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on
the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to
join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close
fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain
portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is
more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.

[Illustration: Figure 2. Single Crochet]

SINGLE CROCHET (Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes
mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on
the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.

[Illustration: Figure 3. Double Crochet]

DOUBLE CROCHET. (Figure 3). Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in
work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the
needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The
abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet
stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the
back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite
different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops.

[Illustration: Figure 4. Treble Crochet]

TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 4.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the
thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and
draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up
thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The
abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single
crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which
these stitches take their names.

[Illustration: Figure 5. Half-Treble Crochet]

HALF-TREBLE OR SHORT-TREBLE CROCHET. Like treble to *; then take up
thread and draw through all three stitches at once.

[Illustration: Figure 6. Double-Treble Crochet]

DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 6.) Having a stitch on the needle, take
up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in
work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked
off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation
of double-treble crochet is d t c.

[Illustration: Figure 7. Triple-Treble Crochet]

TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 7.) Take up thread three times, insert
hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on
needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The
abbreviation is t t c.

One sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as
quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work),
quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two
at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. In turning, one
chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or
short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to
a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra "draw."

PARENTHESES () AND ASTERISKS OR STARS * * are used to prevent the
necessity of repetition and save space. They indicate repeats of like
directions. Thus: (Chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is
equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1
treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss
3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice.

The worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. It should be
well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without
catching in and roughening it. If too large, on the other hand, the work
is apt to be sleazy. Needles that have been used for some time work more
easily than new ones. If all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in
the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no
two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule
given is the best that can be.



Crocheted Jacket


[Illustration: Crochet Jacket]

One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is
extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings
sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold
Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body
and two of white for the border, if made in two colors.

Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.

1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat
from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.

2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1
chain; repeat across, turn.

Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the
back, bringing the work to the shoulder.

Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row
until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have
made 4 rows.

In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of
row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until
you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the
front is of the same length as the back.

Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the
other front to correspond.

For the border: Commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used)
at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st
treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all
around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at
corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.

Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did
the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows,
widening the same stitches at corners each time.

Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together.
Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the
usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm
around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long
as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before
and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.

For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot;
repeat.

The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch
may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-stitch,
made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn.

1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn.

2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop
through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a
loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, *
chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or
joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with
last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch,
over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next
stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *;
turn.

3. A double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and
cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last
row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern.

The bird's-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired
length, turn.

1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn.

2. A double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double
in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row.

Still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as
follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn.

1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn.

2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn.

3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in
3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through
2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat
from * to end of row, turn.

4. Same as 2d row.

5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a
treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1,
a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th
and 5th rows.

And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.

1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch,
repeat to end of row, turn.

2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row;
repeat. Repeat 2d row.



Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet


[Illustration: Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet]

For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and
a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn
easily.

Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.

1. Seven doubles in ring.

2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch.

3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.

4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.

5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.

Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until
you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a
larger crown is desired.

33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.

34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.

35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.

36 to 45. A double in each stitch.

46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten
off the last row neatly.

Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3
stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles
in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1
double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and
around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which
will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without
widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until
the cover is closed.

For the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the
double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet,
or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool's
delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a
length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be;
indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may
"take up" more rapidly than anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one
end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop,
then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and
forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls
through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed
held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left
hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right
forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling
or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in
crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and
forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up
the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. Now
the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in
the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing forefinger
of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the
non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right
forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull
up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of
double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as
may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags,
lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord.

Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is
completed.



Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight


[Illustration: Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight]

Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, with a hook large
enough to carry the yarn smoothly. Commence with a chain of 140
stitches, turn.

1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell of 3
trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen for center of
back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.

2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including the 3
trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a shell as before under 2
chain, then a treble in each following to the end, turn. Work always in
back vein of stitch to produce the ribbed or striped effect.

3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for joining.

Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 stitches, then fold
over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two
sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. This
will leave about 65 stitches for armscye.

For the border:

1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, miss 2;
repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of 1st shell, and join to
that.

2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell in previous
row, and treble in treble; repeat.

3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double between 2
trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, a double in single
treble; repeat.

Work around the armscye in same way.



Child's Coat Sweater


[Illustration: Child's Coat Sweater]

Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook
size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is
crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.

Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.

1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.

2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a
rib.

3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through
2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each
of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle,
chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made
(under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular
loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the
star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row,
turn.

Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of
star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs;
on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3
rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten
the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all
worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not
unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at
other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row.

Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches
(equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as
directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving
1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.

Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with
single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully
done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving
the opening for armholes.

For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch,
around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of
the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work
around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work
around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is
neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss
5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances.
In working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain.

For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles
on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat until there are 10 rows of
star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are
worked on the right side always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side
with single crochet, as you did the back.

For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch
and turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of
a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the
buttonholes.

This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting
with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep
the proportion. The combination of stitches is a most attractive one.



Child's Jacket


[Illustration: Child's Jacket]

Materials required are three skeins of cream-white Saxony and one skein
of blue or pink, with a bone hook of suitable size to carry the yarn
smoothly.

Make a chain of 78 stitches.

1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen)
twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and fasten wool, and fasten in
again at beginning of row so as to have all stars made on the right
side. Or, one can work back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st
row.

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you widen only every
other row, and always exactly in the center. Keep 8 stars on each front,
thus constantly increasing the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore
between 1st and 2d and 4th and 5th widenings.

9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st star on the back,
continue the stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across
front again.

10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain under each arm.

11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, widening only
in center of back every other row, as at first. This completes the body
of the jacket.

21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool at left front
corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the front. At the corner make 2
stars as if to widen, in order to turn the corner neatly, and continue
all the way around to top of right front, not widening at all in the
back of border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.

22. Stars all around, of color.

23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain 3, then make 2
trebles in the eye of each star all around, with 4 trebles in eye of
star at corners, so as to make the work lie smoothly.

24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, and make 2
trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with 4 at corners.

25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.

26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated by 2 chain, in
which to run cord or ribbon.

27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.

28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of last row.

29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the collar.

30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in space
between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, collar and all; fasten
off neatly.

For the sleeve:

1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, make the required
number of stars (not widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the chain
under the arm.

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st row, making star over star
of previous row, and joining underneath the arm.

12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, only omit taking the
stitch under the back loop of star in last row, and take a loop through
each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus drawing in the sleeve, and making
only 12 stars in the round.

13. With the color, make star in star.

14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye of each star.

15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th rows of border.

This makes a dainty, soft little garment. If one likes, treble stitch
may be alternated with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, after
making a row of stars, instead of breaking the wool, turn, chain 3, and
make trebles across, or the trebles may be crossed to give a more fancy
effect, making a treble in 2d stitch, then a treble back in preceding
stitch.

Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both
white and color, in the spaces around the neck.



Girl's Jacket


[Illustration: Girl's jacket]

Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown yarn and 1 skein of
blue. Make a chain of 52 stitches.

1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 double in next;
repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in all, turn.

2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in next loop;
repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn.

3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double under next;
repeat to end of row.

Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of blocks in all,
alternating with rows of loops. Divide the width into three parts, 4
blocks for back of neck and 4 for each front. Work same as 3d row until
you have made 4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back
same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in next row, to widen,
make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain 4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a
double between next 2, chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue
across. The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 rows of
5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of back. Make the other
front in exactly the same way.

For the border:

1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 blocks), work in
blocks down the front, across the bottom, putting 3 extra trebles at
each corner to turn smoothly, up over shoulder and down back, and so on
around to opposite corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.

2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of loops as described,
fastening the chains between groups of 3 trebles.

Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of jacket, with always
the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners to turn, and following the 2d
and 3d rows with the row of loops in blue.

For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn at the back of
jacket, at the desired width for sleeve--9 blocks from top of shoulder,
in the model; chain 9, fasten to front, work around armhole with a row
of loops (gray), making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles
under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat around, join,
and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to required length; the model
has 25 rows of blocks, ending with the row of loops.

For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in 8th loop (the
3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work around as usual to 3d loop
from center on other side, turn, make a row of loops, then a row of
blocks. Fasten the blue yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops;
make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue to
match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue
chain-loops.

For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in
border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side
of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting
chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3
blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs,
widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2
consecutive loops in outer row. Join at beginning and end of each row to
upper edge of jacket-border.

Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double between blocks,
(chain 3, a double in same place) twice. Crochet a chain of the blue
yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops
as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff,
lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is
used to draw in the neck.

Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The jacket can be easily
made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white
Saxony for a baby.



Babies' Jacket


[Illustration: Babies' Jacket]

Materials required are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool
silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards
of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.

Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.

1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing
up to about five-eighths of an inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the
work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the
effect is not so good).

2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d
treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross;
repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the
end where you began.

3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles
over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you
to end of row. The 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2
on each cross and 1 between.

4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.

5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4
crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21
plain.

6. Forty-eight crosses.

7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24
plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.

8. Fifty-eight crosses.

9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain,
miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.

10. Thirty-six crosses.

11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6
crosses at center of back.

12. Forty crosses.

13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.

14. Forty-two crosses.

15. Like 13th row.

16. Forty-four crosses.

17. Like 13th row.

18. Forty-six crosses.

19. Plain, without widening in the back.

Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of
foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2,
1 treble, and repeat. Now make a row of crosses entirely around the
jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow
this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners
to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a
stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk,
making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double
between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain
2, and repeat.

For the sleeves:

1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses.

2. Fourteen crosses.

3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.

4. Fifteen crosses.

5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.

6. Sixteen crosses.

7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.

8. Seventeen crosses.

9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.

Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket.
Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the
remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow
on top.



Baby's Shoes in Crochet


[Illustration: Baby's Shoes in Crochet]

These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or
delicate color, or of wool. They are very firm and neat, and shaped to
the foot. The sample pair was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or
coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same
directions.

Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches.

1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1
in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join.

2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to
within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle
stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d
stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join.

3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down
the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle
stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch
from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join.

4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings.

5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles
with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles,
with 1 chain between, at back of heel.

6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the
widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel.

7. Chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as usual on each
side of toe and in the middle, also in middle of heel; join.

8. Same as 7th row.

9. Chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat around, join to
3d of 4 chain.

10. Chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow 11 stitches
from middle of toe by putting hook through 2 stitches at once, or by
missing a stitch, also at middle of toe, join.

11, 12. Same as 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as
directed.

13. Like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing on the vamp,
then turn and work back across vamp, narrowing at the end, turn.

14. Chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing in the
middle and at end.

15, 17. Like 13th row.

16, 18. Like 14th row.

19. Chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle of vamp and on
the sides.

20. Turn and work across top of vamp with a double in each stitch.

21. For the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side of vamp, 2d
row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in 10 stitches, catch in
1st double of side of shoe, a single in next double on side of shoe,
turn; a double in each of 9 doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles
in 1st double, 1 in each following double, join to next double of side,
a single in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 at
end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, a
double in each following double, join to next double of side, a single
in next, turn; double in each double, with 5 in 5 stitches of chain,
turn; chain 1, a double in each double; join, slip in next double of
side, turn; work 5 more rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other
row; then chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and
double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work back with
double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5,
miss 5, double in double, join, slip in next double, turn, work back
with double in double, chain 1, turn, and work double in double around
to within 14 stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1,
double in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in
double around to the other side. Continue thus until you have worked 6
rows around top of shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish
with 4 rows. The shoe may be made higher, if desired, and more
buttonholes added.

For the buttons. Chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 doubles in each
double; a double in each double; a double in every other double; slip in
a pearl or porcelain button of requisite size, draw together, and sew to
the shoe, matching the position of the buttonholes.



Ribbed House-Slippers


[Illustration: Ribbed House-slipper]

Use 2-fold Shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate twist.
Commencing at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.

1. A double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles
in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down other side of chain,
in same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn.

2. Ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of stitch to form the
rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 doubles in 10 doubles,
chain 1, turn.

3, 4, 5. Same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each side of center, each
row.

6. A double in each double, without widening, chain 1, turn.

7. A double in each double, with 3 in center stitch.

Repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep
as desired. If preferred, the widening may be made every row, putting 2
doubles in one and then the other, alternately, of the widening doubles.

For the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain 1, turn, a
double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue until you have 44 ribs, or
the strip is of sufficient length to extend easily around the sole; join
neatly to 24 doubles on opposite side of vamp.

Around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the elastic, thus:
Fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 ribs, a triple treble
(over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between next 2,
chain 5, repeat from * around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1,
join to 5th of 10 chain.

For ruching: Have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in work, over 4 times,
pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about
three-fourths inch, and always taking yarn next to you to next stitch;
make this for bottom of beading, as well, and the latter will be
entirely covered. Run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between
the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for instep of the same
shade as the yarn.



Baby's Bootees


[Illustration: No. 1. Baby's Bootees]

A pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, and is appreciated
scarcely less by baby's mamma. Two very pretty styles are given, one in
pink and white, the accepted colors for a girlie, the other in blue and
white--blue being the color usually chosen for a little son's
belongings.[Transcriber's Note: The original had blue and pink reversed
in the above paragraph.]

Commencing with white Saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn.

NO. 1. 1.--Miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 stitches, turn.

2. Chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up the back loop of
stitch to form a rib, turn.

Repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the last row chain
11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 stitches of chain and in 10
doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, making 4 of the long ribs, then,
working only on the 10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the
back of the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch.

For the upper part of leg:

1. Chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining to top of 3
chain.

2. Draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through 1st and 3d
stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and draw through the 3
loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * draw up a
loop in same place with last and another in 3d stitch, work off as
before and repeat around.

3. Draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the space before
pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the space after, work off as
before, take a loop in same space as before, another in next space, work
off, and repeat.

4. Like 3d row, with blue.

5, 6. Like 3d row, with white.

7. With blue, a double in each stitch.

8. With white, chain 3, a treble in each double, join.

9. With blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, chain 3, 1 double in same
stitch, miss 1; repeat. Fasten off neatly.

For the foot:

1. With blue make a double in each stitch all around bottom of leg and
instep.

2. A double in each double, taking up both veins of stitch to avoid a
rib.

3, 4. Same as 2d row, with white.

5, 6. Same as 2d row, with blue.

7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 2d row, with white, joining the last row with
single crochet on the wrong side. Finish with cord and tassels or with
ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on upper part of leg.

       *       *       *       *       *


[Illustration: No. 2. Baby's Bootees]

NO. 2. Using the white yarn make a chain of 37 stitches, join.

1. Chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join.

2, 3. With pink, make a double in each stitch, join. Repeat 1st, 2d and
3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs each of pink and white.

13. Chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, make a treble in
next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming a crossed treble; repeat
around, join.

14. With pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. Fasten off
securely.

For the foot:

1. With white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of leg, draw up a
loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all on needle; take up yarn and
draw through 1st stitch, * again draw through 2, and repeat until all
are worked off; now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by
working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until you have again
the number of loops on needle; continue until you have 9 rows of
afghan-stitch.

Again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a double in each
stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in
each stitch of preceding row, taking up both loops to avoid a rib, then
5 rows of pink in the same way, joining the last row as before directed.
Finish with cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles
around top of bootee.



A Sweater and Cap for Dolly


[Illustration: Sweater and Cap for Dolly]

One skein of white and blue Saxony will be sufficient for two sets; use
a crochet-hook that will carry the wool easily. Commence the sweater
with a chain of 60 stitches.

1. A double in each stitch of chain, turn.

2. A treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for 1st
treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to end of row, turn.

3. A treble and a double taken between treble and double of last row;
repeat.

4. A double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 for 1st double).

5. Same as 4th row. This completes the portion over the shoulder.

On one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and again the 2d row
which completes one front. Work in the same way on the other half of
length, which brings you to the center of the back and makes half of the
sweater. Make the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center
of back. Fold and join under the arms, making the armscye of desired
size.

For the sleeve: Make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat from 1st to 5th
row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, and join last row to 1st;
also crochet sleeve in the armscye.

Entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet with blue
yarn, working in both veins of stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3
stitches in 1 at corners to turn smoothly. After working 2 rows of left
front make the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3;
then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain.

Finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d stitch in 1st row
to draw in the cuff a little. Sew on pearl buttons to match the
buttonholes.

Cap: Chain 5, join to form a ring.

1. Chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take up yarn and draw
through) twice, yarn over and draw through all the loops on needle,
chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join
to top of 1st.

2. Chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, and between each
2; join.

3. Chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, widening every 3d
or 4th by making a bean in top of bean.

4, 5. Same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as necessary in order
to keep the shape.

Make 5 more rows without widening, which completes the body of cap.

For the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the blue yarn,
working on the wrong side to form the band so that it will turn up on
the right side.

1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches from hook, also
through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * take up wool and draw
through all the stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw up a
loop through eye of star last made, under the 1 chain, another through
back part of last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2
stitches; repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of
star-stitch. Fasten off neatly.

Make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to top of cap by a
crocheted cord.

This set will make a charming gift for a little girl. By using fourfold
Germantown the sweater will be large enough for the small mother herself
to wear, or it may be easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and
working in the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. The cap may
also be made large enough for a child by adding to the number of
bean-stitches in each row.



Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch


[Illustration: Child's Cap in Bean-Stitch]

Materials required are one skein of cream-white Shetland floss and a
little light-blue Saxony yarn, with medium-sized bone hook. Chain 5,
join.

1. Draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook in ring, draw loop
through, over and draw through 3 loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up
a loop in ring, over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through
all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, with 1 chain
between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st stitch.

2. Draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook through same
stitch, draw through, over and draw through all the loops; this is 1st
stitch of each row. Chain 1, a bean-stitch in following space, chain 1,
bean-stitch in bean-stitch; repeat around, join.

3. Bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d bean-stitch,
with 1 chain between, join.

4. Same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th bean-stitch.

5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Same as 4th row, with an additional space between
widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in every 5th, and so on, with
bean-stitch in every 10th, in 10th row.

11, 12, 13. Bean-stitch in each space.

14. Change to double crochet for head-band, making a double in each
stitch.

15, 16, 17, 18, 19. A double in each double, working in both veins of
stitch; narrow twice in each row.

20, 21. Double in each double.

22. A bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between.

23, 24, 25, 26, 27. Bean-stitch in each space; fasten off white yarn.

28. Fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop in 2d chain from
hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long loops, over, draw through
all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next space with a single, and repeat.
This makes a small, pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap.

For the button: Using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles in 2d stitch of
chain. Continue around and around without joining, 1st row with 2
doubles in each stitch, then widen sufficiently to keep the work flat
until nearly as large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two
more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the
button in and continue, keeping the work tight over the button until you
have about half of space covered; then break the yarn, draw up with
needle and sew to center of crown.

This cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three years, and
may be easily enlarged. The border may be turned down over the ears for
extra warmth.



Child's Crocheted Hood


[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood]

Use eiderdown or very heavy Germantown worsted, with a hook large enough
to carry the wool without fraying. Chain 4 stitches, join.

1. Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2
through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to
close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just
made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off
as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join.

2. Make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same
stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so
that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row.

3. Make 16 stars, widening 4 times.

4, 5, 6. Leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3
rows. Break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the
stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and
3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual.

Make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars
entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each
corner of front to prevent drawing.

For the rosette: Chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring,
chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. Run ribbon
in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of
ribbon.

This hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any
stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it.



Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch


[Illustration: Child's Crocheted Hood in Wedge-Stitch]

Materials required are one and one-half hanks of 4-fold Germantown wool,
white, or any preferred color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size.
While intended for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged
to fit any head.

Chain 4 stitches with white wool, join.

1. Chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join.

2. Draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool over, draw up a
loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, draw up a loop, wool over,
draw through all the loops on hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch,
and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round.

3. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, over, insert
hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all loops on the
needle, chain 1, * insert hook in same space, draw up a loop, over,
insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all
stitches on needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches
in every 3d of previous round.

4. Widen in every 5th stitch.

5. Plain, that is, without widening.

6. Widen every 3d stitch.

7, 8, 9. Plain.

10. Plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and fasten in at
other end again.

11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Same as 10th row, leaving the 7 stitches for back of
neck.

16. Fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every stitch. It is very
pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the Germantown when making the
border.

17, 18. A double in each stitch around bottom or neck of hood.

19, 20, 21, 22, 23. A double in each stitch across front, working in
both veins of stitch.

Turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at back, a rosette on
top, and ribbon ties.

To make the hood larger you have but to continue widening the crown
until of proper size, which will make the front proportionally longer
and leave the neck wider. Any fancy stitch may be used in the same way,
following the general directions given.



Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch


[Illustration: Child's Toque in Wedge-Stitch]

This pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen years, and is
easily enlarged to any desired size, requires five hanks of
eiderdown-wool. If desired, two colors may be used, say white for cap
and blue for the turnover or border. It is worked in wedge-stitch, and
Germantown wool may be used by making more stitches. Use a bone hook of
suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool easily without
catching in it. Make a chain of 4 stitches and join.

1. Draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a loop, wool over,
insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, wool over, draw through all
the loops on needle, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11
wedge-stitches in the ring; join.

2. Draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, wool over,
hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all loops on
needle, chain 1, * hook in same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook
in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook,
chain 1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch in every
other stitch of last round.

3. Widen in every 3d stitch.

4. Widen in every 6th stitch.

Work six times around plain, that is, without widening; then if color is
used for the turnover join it in and work once around, turn the work so
that the border will be right side out when turned up, and work around
five times more. Make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length
you wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card five
inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end to form the
head of tassel, and cut open the other end.

       *       *       *       *       *

NEEDLECRAFT pictures each month new and beautiful pieces of
needlework--knitting, crochet, including the exclusive Mary Card
designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. Such complete and accurate
directions and descriptions are given that any woman can make the
articles for herself without further instructions. It explains the
stitch to use and shows how to make it.

NEEDLECRAFT will supply you at moderate cost with transfer-patterns,
perforated patterns, or stamped goods for every piece of embroidery
shown. Also many working charts for Crochet and Cross-Stitch Designs.

NEEDLECRAFT will show you the latest productions in fashions and will
furnish you with the best perfect-fitting, seam-allowing patterns. From
these patterns it is easy to make garments for yourself that will look
like the pictures.

NEEDLECRAFT gives up-to-date ideas for decorating your home and tells
you how to do it at the lowest cost. An interesting and instructive
cooking-article appears each month. In short, NEEDLECRAFT is a magazine
that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most practical
home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published.

NEEDLECRAFT is printed on large presses made expressly for it and uses
the best of new type for each issue. The paper stock has a high finish
in order to bring out clearly all the details of the fashion and
fancy-work illustrations. The beautifully colored covers are of
exclusive design--a very artistic border with the center panel showing a
new piece of needlework each month. Like NEEDLECRAFT itself, the covers
are different and practical.

A sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. Just write your name
and address on a postcard and you will receive a copy by return mail;
or, better still, send us 35 cents and receive the next twelve issues.
You are sure to find those very patterns and designs that you have been
looking for. If you are not more than pleased with NEEDLECRAFT after
reading the first number, tell us so and we will cancel your
subscription and return your money.

Needlecraft
Augusta--Maine



How To Secure Your Yarn Without Cost

The women of America are knitting as never before. In the social set, no
gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the
business woman must needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to
the busy housewife no duty is so imperative as to exclude knitting from
the daily routine. It almost seems as if the women of America--all
women, rich and poor alike--were devoting their united efforts to one
vast universal consecration--the comfort of our boys over there.

There is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that
every woman in America shall devote every spare moment to the knitting
of warm sweaters, stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki,
and that is--the tremendously high price of worsted yarns. We can all
squeeze out a little more time but we can none of us spend more money
than we have, and in these times the calls for cash donations are urgent
and not infrequent. But now you can have all the yarn that you will use
without spending any money. A little more time is now the only essential
to your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their
all for our safety. You who have been unable to knit as much as you have
wanted to, because you have lacked the means to do with, need feel that
drawback no longer. Needlecraft has provided

~An assured supply of Knitting-Worsted in the Regulation Blue, Gray and
Khaki which you can secure without cost by getting subscriptions to
Needlecraft on the following liberal terms:~

Send us only ~10~ yearly subscriptions to Needlecraft at our regular
subscription-price of ~35 cents~ each, and we will send each subscriber
this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, one
one-quarter-pound skein of Knitting-Worsted (Premium No. 6395). (We
reserve the right to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins
if necessary.)

    NOTE--To those who prefer Knitting-Worsted of some other color for a
    lady's sweater or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the
    same liberal terms; or if you prefer finer yarns we will provide
    Germantown Zephyr at four subscriptions a skein (Premium No. 6396),
    and Shetland Floss at three subscriptions a skein (Premium No.
    6397).


Needlecraft
Augusta--Maine

[Illustration]





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