| By Author | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Title | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Language |
|
Download this book: [ ASCII | HTML | PDF ] Look for this book on Amazon Tweet |
Title: The South of France—East Half
Author: Black, C. B., -1906
Language: English
As this book started as an ASCII text book there are no pictures available.
*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The South of France—East Half" ***
by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
http://gallica.bnf.fr)
[Transcriber’s Note:
The printed book had two kinds of headnote: keyword and mileage.
“Keyword” headers, noting the places and subjects mentioned on the page,
have been placed before the most appropriate paragraph.
Each itinerary gives the “miles from” {starting point} and “miles to”
{ending point}, with the numbers printed in the left and right corners
of each paragraph. For this e-text the numbers are shown in {braces}
before the beginning of each paragraph; the place names are given at
the beginning of the itinerary, and repeated as needed. Paragraphs
describing side excursions do not have mileage information.
The hotel rating symbols are explained at several random points in the
text, though not in the introductory section:
Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ² second-class.
The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their class.
Errors and inconsistencies are listed at the end of the text.]
[Map:
Index and Railway Map of France]
SOUTH OF FRANCE
EAST HALF
GUIDES BY C. B. BLACK.
SPAS of CHELTENHAM and BATH, with Maps and Plan of BATH. 1s.
TOURIST’S CAR GUIDE in the pleasant Islands of JERSEY, GUERNSEY,
ALDERNEY and SARK. Illustrated with 6 Maps and Plan of the Town of
SAINT HELIER. Second edition. 1s.
CORSICA, with large Map of the Island. 1s.
BELGIUM, including ROTTERDAM, FLUSHING, MIDDELBURG, SCHIEDAM and
LUXEMBOURG. Illustrated by 10 Plans and 5 Maps. 2s. 6d.
NORTH FRANCE, LORRAINE AND ALSACE, including the MINERAL WATERS OF
CONTREXÉVILLE, VITTEL, MARTIGNY, PLOMBIÈRES, LUXEUIL, AIX-LA-CHAPELLE,
etc. Illustrated with 5 Maps and 7 Plans. Third Edition. 2s. 6d.
TOURAINE, NORMANDY and BRITTANY. Illustrated with 14 Maps and 15
Plans. Eighth edition. 5s.
The above two contain the NORTH HALF of France; or France from the
Loire to the North Sea and from the Bay of Biscay to the Rhine.
THE RIVIERA, or the coast of the Mediterranean from MARSEILLES to
LEGHORN, including LUCCA, PISA and FLORENCE. Illustrated with 8 Maps
and 6 Plans. Second edition. 2s. 6d.
FRANCE--SOUTH-EAST HALF--including the whole of the VALLEY OF THE
RHÔNE in France, with the adjacent Departments; the VALLEY OF THE
UPPER LOIRE, with the adjacent Departments; the RIVIERA; the PASSES
between France and Italy; and the Italian towns of TURIN, PIACENZA,
MODENA, BOLOGNA, FLORENCE, LEGHORN and PISA. Illustrated with numerous
Maps and Plans. Fourth edition. 5s.
From “Scotsman,” June 2, 1884.
“_C. B. Black’s Guide-books have a character of their own; and that
character is a good one. Their author has made himself personally
acquainted with the localities with which he deals in a manner in
which only a man of leisure, a lover of travel, and an intelligent
observer of Continental life could afford to do. He does not ‘get up’
the places as a mere hack guide-book writer is often, by the necessity
of the case, compelled to do. Hence he is able to correct common
mistakes, and to supply information on minute points of much interest
apt to be overlooked by the hurried observer._”
The
SOUTH OF FRANCE
EAST HALF
Including the Valleys of
THE RHÔNE, DRÔME AND DURANCE
The BATHS of
VICHY, ROYAT, AIX, MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE
The Whole of the
RIVIERA FROM CETTE TO LEGHORN
With the Inland Towns of
TURIN, BOLOGNA, PARMA, FLORENCE AND PISA
and
THE PASSES BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY
Illustrated with Maps and Plans
FOURTH EDITION
C. B. BLACK
EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK
1885
_Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_.
PREFACE.
This Guide-book consists of _Routes_ which follow the course of the main
Railways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirements
of every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the
stations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to
towns distant from the railway. The description of the places on these
branch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than
that of the towns on the main lines.
Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found. By aid of
these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, and
either form new routes for himself, or follow those given.
The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken either
from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement.
The Route from Paris to Marseilles, for example, does equally well for
Marseilles to Paris.
The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the terminus is
expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of the
margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from each
other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side from
each other.
In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been taken in
the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that is
necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs on
such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission,
the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visited
before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all the
day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P.M. All
the Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on
Thursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally granted
on payment of a franc.
In “Table of Contents” the Routes are classified and explained. For the
Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the
Continental Railways, see “Preliminary Information.”
Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the
Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly
understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it
safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after
sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even
with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial
influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it
prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within
doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the
sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air,
walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with
which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such
exercise, it will be no great hardship to rest at home in the evening.
Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season;
indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the
railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. “I would
strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his
health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go,
to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable
situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in
mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of
climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode
of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in
his case had he remained in his own country. All the circumstances
requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended
to abroad. If in some things greater latitude may be permitted, others
will demand even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due
regard to all these circumstances that the powers of the constitution
can be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best
climate, a disease of long standing.
“It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so
strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have
witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to
deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of
surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in
which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they
left their own country--the recovery of their health. This appeared to
arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.
“The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of
living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet,
exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called
‘sight-seeing,’ frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping
late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate
promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was
counteracted by the operation of these causes.” --_Sir James Clark on
the Sanative Influence of Climate._
SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND MAP ON FLY-LEAF.
Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay
at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p. 93), Mont-Dore
(p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283),
Bourbon-l’Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the
eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from
Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp. 212 and 279) to Turin
(p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pèllice
(p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian
valleys.
If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long,
a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however,
on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather
sharp and bracing.
From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the
baths is by the valley of the Rhône (map, p. 27), in which there are
many places of great interest, such as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58),
Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch
by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For
Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Ambérieux (p. 281) and Culoz
(p. 282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98),
Montélimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Grenoble
(p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From
Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardechè
(p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and
villages between it and Aspres (pp. 47 and 345). From Grenoble the
roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the
western Alps and to the mountain passes between France and Italy.
None should go abroad without a passport. Even where several are
travelling together in one party, each should have his own passport.
They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use.
The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English
cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs.,
including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of
the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat
breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, ½ fr.; “café au
lait,” with bread and butter, 1½ fr. The omnibus between the hotel and
the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads
and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small
gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quantity of bags and
trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1½ to 2 frs. each,
and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a
gratuity.
Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a
stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage
should be left in depôt at the station. Some companies charge 1, others
2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See “Railways” in “Preliminary
Information.”
C. B. B.
PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.
THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE OF THE CHANNEL.
The six principal ports on the French side of the English Channel
connected by railroad with Paris are:--
Dieppe--distant from Paris 125 miles; passing Clères Junction, 100 m.;
Rouen, 85 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy,
17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins de Fer de
l’Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 25 frs.; 2d
cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs.
London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240 miles):--tidal; daily,
except Sunday, from Victoria Station and London Bridge Station.
Fare--1st class, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl. 16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60
miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, 16 hours. For tickets,
etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, Gare St. Lazare, Rue
St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau spécial, agent, M. Marcillet, Rue
de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie., 20 Boulevard Saint Denis.
From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchâtel,
Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance,
105 miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares--1st
class, 21 frs.; 2d, 15½ frs.; 3d, 11¼ frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare
station of the Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest.
From Tréport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale,
Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119¼ miles. Time, 8 hours 40
minutes. Fares, 1st class, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives
at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through
trains by this line.
BOULOGNE--distant 158 miles from Paris; passing Montreuil, 134 m.;
Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m.
from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.
18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4½ hours. Fares--1st class, 31 frs.
25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c.
London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 miles):--tidal
route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Express
trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and second class.
Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 minutes. Fares from
London to Paris by Boulogne--1st class, 56s.; 2d cl. 42s. Time for the
entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to the
railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord.
CALAIS--185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m.; Montreuil, 134 m.;
Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m.
from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.
18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5½ hours. Fares--1st class, 36 frs.
55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.
London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance 283
miles);--departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London
Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second
class, express. Fares--60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to Paris,
10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and examined
in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply at the
railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord.
CALAIS--204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m.; Hazebrouck,
165 m.; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil,
32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40
minutes. Fares--1st class, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d
cl. 20 frs. 10 c.
DUNKERQUE--190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck,
165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens,
81 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No.
18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10½ hours. Fares--1st class, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d
cl. 28 frs. 15 c.
England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk (screw):--tidal; three
times a week from Fenning’s Wharf. Also from Leith, in 48 to 54 hours.
LE HAVRE--142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m.; Beuzeville
Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot, 111 m.; Rouen,
87 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from
Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe and Cherbourg, at the station of the
Chemin de Fer de l’Ouest, No. 124 Rue St. Lazare. Fares--1st class, 28
frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express,
4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly 3 hours longer by the ordinary trains.
London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le Havre:--Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday, 9 P.M. from Waterloo Station, leaving
Southampton 11.45 P.M. Sea journey, 80 m.; time, 8 hours.
CHERBOURG--231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m.; Bayeux, 167 m.;
Caen, 149 m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux, 119 m.; Serquigny
Junction, 93 m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy,
17 m. from Paris. Time by express, 8½ hours; slow trains, nearly 13
hours.
FRENCH, BELGIAN, AND GERMAN RAILWAYS.
On these railways the rate of travelling is slower than in England,
but the time is more accurately kept.
To each passenger is allowed 30 kilogrammes, or 66 lbs. weight of
luggage free.
_Railway Time-Tables._
Time-tables or Indicateurs. For France the most useful and only
official time-tables are those published by Chaix and Cie., and sold
at all the railway stations. Of these excellent publications there are
various kinds. The most complete and most expensive is the
“Livret-Chaix Continental,” which, besides the time-tables of the
French railways, gives those also of the whole Continent, and is
furnished with a complete index; size 18mo, with about 800 pages. The
“Livret-Chaix Continental” is sold at the station bookstalls. Price
2 frs.
Next in importance is the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer,” sold at
every station; size 128 small folio pages, price 60 c. It contains the
time-tables of the French railways alone, and an index and railway
map.
The great French lines of the “Chemins de Fer de l’Ouest,” of the
“Chemins de Fer d’Orleans,” of the “Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et
à la Méditerranée,” of the “Chemins de Fer du Nord,” and of the
“Chemins de Fer de l’Est,” have each time-tables of their own, sold at
all their stations. Price 40 c. Size 18me. With good index.
For Belgium, the best time-tables are in the “Guide Officiel sur tous
les Chemins de Fer de Belgique.” Sold at the Belgian railway stations.
Size 18me. Price 30 c. It contains a good railway map of Belgium.
For Italy, use “L’Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate d’Italia.”
Containing excellent maps illustrating their circular tours. Price
1 fr.
In Spain use the “Indicador de los Ferro-Carriles,” sold at the
stations. The distances are, as in the French tables, in kilometres,
of which 8 make 5 miles. _Lleg._ or _Llegada_ means “arrival”;
_Salida_, “departure.”
In England consult the “Continental Time-tables of the London,
Chatham, and Dover Railway,” sold at the Victoria Station, Pimlico,
price 2d.; or those of the London and South-Eastern, 1d.
_In the Railway Station._
Before going to the station, it is a good plan to turn up in the index
of the “Livret-Chaix Continental” the place required, to ascertain the
fare and the time of starting, which stations are supplied with
refreshment rooms (marked B), and the time the train halts at each on
its way.
On arriving at the station join the single file (queue) of people
before the small window (guichet), where the tickets (billets) are
sold. Your turn having arrived, and having procured your ticket,
proceed to the luggage department, where deposit your baggage and
deliver your ticket to be stamped. The luggage tickets are called also
“bulletins.”
After your articles have been weighed, your ticket, along with a
luggage receipt, is handed you from the “guichet” of the luggage
office, where, if your baggage is not overweight, you pay 10 c. or 2
sous. Before pocketing the luggage ticket, just run your eye down the
column headed “Nombre de Colis,” and see that the exact number of your
articles has been given. The French have a strange way of making the
figures 3, 5, and 7. Whatever is overweight is paid for at this
office; but remember, when two or more are travelling together, to
present the tickets of the whole party at the luggage department,
otherwise the luggage will be treated as belonging to one person, and
thus it will probably be overweight. Another advantage of having the
entire number of the party on the “Billet de Bagage” is that, in case
of one or other losing their carriage tickets, this will prove the
accident to the stationmaster (chef-de-Gare) and satisfy him. If,
after having purchased a ticket, the train is missed, that ticket, to
be available for the next train, must be presented again to the ticket
office, to be re-stamped (être visé).
The traveller, on arriving at his destination, will frequently find it
more convenient not to take his luggage away with him; in which case,
having seen it brought from the train to the station, he should tell
the porter that he wishes it left there. He retains, however, his
luggage ticket, which he only presents when he desires his luggage
again.
_On the Railway._
In the carriage cast the eye over the line as given in our railway
map, and note the junctions; for at many of these--such as Amiens,
Rouen, Culoz, Macon, etc. etc.--the passengers are frequently
discharged from the carriages and sent into the waiting-rooms to await
other trains. On such occasions great attention must be paid to the
names the porter calls out when he opens the door of the waiting-room,
otherwise the wrong train may be taken. To avoid this, observe on our
railway map what are the principal towns along the line in the
direction required to go; so that when, for example, he calls out,
“Voyageurs du Côté de Lyon!” and we be going to Marseilles from Macon,
we may, with confidence, enter the train, because, by reference to the
map, we see we must pass Lyon to reach Marseilles. The little railway
map will be found very useful, and ought always to be kept in
readiness for reference.
_Buffet_ means “refreshment-room”; and _Salle d’Attente_,
“waiting-room.”
There are separate first, second, and third class carriages for
ladies.
Express trains have third class carriages for long distances.
_Railway Omnibuses._
At the stations of the largest and wealthiest towns three kinds of
omnibuses await the arrival of passengers. They may be distinguished
by the names of the General Omnibus, the Hotel Omnibus, and the
Private Omnibus. The general omnibus takes passengers to all parts of
the town for a fixed sum, rarely above half a franc; so that, should
the omnibus be full, it is some time till the last passenger gets put
down at his destination. The hotel omnibus takes passengers only to
the hotel or hotels whose name or names it bears.
CONTENTS.
RAILWAYS, ROADS, and BYE-WAYS in the SOUTH-EAST of FRANCE, and the
MOUNTAIN PASSES between FRANCE and ITALY.
For the whole of the south-east of France use the time-tables of the
“Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon et à la Méditerranée.” Sold at all their
stations, price 8 sous. In Italy use the “Indicatore Ufficiale,” 1 fr.
or 1 lira, which gives, besides the time-tables of the railway trains,
those also of the steam-trams, which traverse the country in all
directions.
In England consult the time-tables of the London and South Eastern
Railway, 1d.; or the Continental time-tables of the London, Chatham and
Dover Railway, 3d.
PAGE
+PARIS to MENTON+ by Fontainebleau, Joigny, Dijon, Macon,
Lyons, Valence, Avignon, Arles, Rognac, Marseilles,
Toulon, Hyères, Cannes, Nice and Monaco (see map on
fly-leaf) 1
For practical purposes it is more convenient to divide
this long journey into two parts--Paris to Marseilles
(p. 1), and Marseilles to Menton (p. 122).
+PARIS to MARSEILLES+ 1
The train, after leaving the station, passes some of the
most interesting towns and villages in the neighbourhood
of Paris, of which the most important is Fontainebleau.
Dijon and Macon are good resting-places. Lyons is the
largest city on the line. Avignon and Arles should, if
possible, be visited. Among the branch lines which ramify
from this great central railway are
+La Roche to Les Laumes+ by Auxerre, Cravant,
Sermizelles, Avallon and Semur. At Sermizelles a coach
awaits passengers for Vezelay, containing a grand and
vast church 14
From Auxerre a coach runs to Chablis (p. 14), with its
famous wines, passing through Pontigny (p. 16), where
Thomas à Becket resided.
Verrey (p. 19) is a good station to alight at, to visit
the source of the Seine.
From +Dijon+ (p. 20) southwards to Chagny (p. 24) are
the famous Burgundy vineyards.
+Chagny to Nevers+ by Autun, Montchanin and Creusot.
Autun (p. 24) is one of the most ancient cities in
France. At Creusot (p. 25) are very large ironworks.
+Macon to Paray-le-Monial+ by Cluny. At Paray-le-Monial
(p. 27) a nun called Alacoque is said to have had
several interviews with J. C.
+Lyons+ (p. 29), though a splendid city, ought to be
avoided by invalids in winter. Lyons is an important
railway junction. 78 miles E. by Amberieux and Culoz is
Aix-les-Bains (p. 283). 76 miles S.E. by Rives, Voiron
and Voreppe is Grenoble (p. 324). Voiron is the station
for the Grande Chartreuse (p. 323). From the station of
St. Paul, 113 miles W. by Montbrison (p. 349), is
Clermont-Ferrand (p. 369). 89½ miles S.W. by St. Etienne
(p. 346) is Le Puy (p. 86). The rail from Lyons along
the E. side of the Rhône leads to Avignon (p. 58) and
Arles (p. 68); and on the W. side to Nîmes (p. 101). See
map, p. 27.
VALENCE TO GRENOBLE, 62 miles N.E. 44
VALENCE TO ARDÈCHE 45
CREST TO MONTELIMART 46
+Crest to Dieulefit+ by Saou and Bourdeaux 46
Saou is an ancient village curiously situated. Bourdeaux
is separated from Dieulefit by a high mountain.
+Crest to Aspres+, 57 miles E. by Die. This route
traverses the whole of the valley of the river Drôme (map,
p. 27) 47
MONTELIMART TO GRIGNAN, where Madame Sévigné died 49
+La Croisière to Nyons+, 29½ miles E. (p. 50). The climate
of Nyons is mild and well suited for those who leave the
Riviera early. From Nyons another coach goes on to Serres,
41 miles E. (p. 51) on the railway between Marseilles and
Grenoble (map, p. 27).
+Sorgues to Carpentras+, 10½ m. east 54
Carpentras makes excellent headquarters for visiting a
great variety of places in the neighbourhood, among
others Mont Ventoux (p. 56) and Vaison (p. 53).
+Avignon to Nîmes+ by the famous Roman aqueduct called the
Pont-du-Gard 64
AVIGNON TO THE FONTAINE OF VAUCLUSE, where Petrarch lived
for some time 64
AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE by Apt (map, p. 27) 66
AVIGNON TO MIRAMAS by Cavaillon 66
TARASCON TO ST. REMY AND LES BAUX 67
ARLES TO FONTVIEILLE by Mont-Majour. Arles has magnificent
Roman remains 71
ARLES TO PORT ST. LOUIS at the mouth of the Rhône 72
ARLES TO PORT-BOUC, across the Camargue, by the canal
steamboat 76 and 72
ARLES TO AIGUES-MORTES by St. Gilles and Lunel 72
LUNEL TO MONTPELLIER 73
+Rognac to the aqueduct of Roquefavour+, which brings
water to Marseilles from the Durance 77
+Rognac to the baths of Aix-en-Provence.+ Aix has
communication by rail and by coach with very many of the
neighbouring towns 78
+LYONS to NÎMES by the west side of the Rhône+ (map,
p. 27) 81
PEYRAUD by rail to Annonay, and thence by coach to St.
Etienne 81
+La Voulte to Le Cheilard+, the chief diligence centre in
the department of Ardèche (map, p. 46) 83
The road to the source of the Loire (map, p. 85) 83
LACHAMP-RAPHAÉL TO LE BÉAGE (map, p. 85) 84
LE BÉAGE TO LE PUY by Le Monastier (map, p. 46) 85
LE PUY TO LANGOGNE by Pradelles (map, p. 46) 88
LE PUY TO LANGEAC by St. Georges (map, p. 46) 89
DARSAC TO CHAISE-DIEU (map, p. 46) 89
CHAISE-DIEU TO THIERS by Arlanc and Ambert (map, p. 27) 90
LANGEAC TO MONISTROL AND TO SAUGUES. Coach from Monistrol
station to Le Puy (map, p. 46) 91
LE POUZIN TO PRIVAS (map, p. 27) 92
+Teil to Alais+, 62 miles S.W. (map, p. 27) 93
This is the branch line to take for the baths of Vals
and the interesting volcanic mountains in the
neighbourhood.
PRADES TO LANGOGNE by Mayres and Pradelles (map, p. 27) 94
PRADES TO MONTPEZAT. From Montpezat the source of the
Loire (p. 84) is visited 95
MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY 96
RUOMS TO VALLON and the fine natural bridge called the
Pont d’Arc (map, p. 27), approached also from Pont-St.
Esprit (p. 98) 96
PONT D’AVIGNON, station on W. bank of the Rhône, for
Avignon 99
REMOULINS TO THE PONT-DU-GARD 99
NÎMES TO MILLAU by Vigan (map, p. 27) 105
THE RIVIERA.
+The Riviera.+ Hotels, productions, climate 107
+Marseilles.+ Hotels, trams, sights, excursions 111
+MARSEILLES to MENTON.+ The French Riviera 122
Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty little
towns, of which the most important is La Seyne (p. 123).
From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the
neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in
the interior. The most start from the Place d’Italie
(pp. 124 and 129).
Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W. of the
Place Puget (p. 128), to Hyères from the Place Puget
(pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the
Place d’Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place
d’Italie (p. 128).
Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by Belgentier, by
diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a
picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau
and Pierrefeu (p. 130).
Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier
(p. 127), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or (pp. 124, 131).
+The Iles d’Or.+ Porquerolles, Port-Cros, Ile du Levant 131
+Toulon to Hyères+ 132
+Hyères.+ Hotels, cabs, drives, stage-coaches, excursions,
productions, climate 133
Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of
Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p. 141);
to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez
(p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or
coach to Le Luc (p. 144).
+La Pauline.+ Diligence and train to Hyères 142
+Carnoules.+ Carnoules to Gardanne by rail, passing
Brignoles and Ste. Maximin 142
+Le Luc.+ Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach, across the Maure
mountains 144
+Les Arcs to Draguignan+ by rail. From Draguignan
diligences start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and
Salernes, and correspond at these towns with other
diligences 145
+Cannes+ to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet, (p. 154), to
Cap d’Antibes (p. 154), to Castelaras (p. 156), to
Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p. 155), to
Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse (p. 160), to the Iles de
Lerins (p. 156), to Mougins (p. 156), to Napoule and
Theoule (p. 155), to Pégomas (p. 156), to St. Cassien
(p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and
Californie (p. 152).
+Grasse+ to Cagnes by Le Bar, the Pont-du-Loup and Vence
(p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p. 165),
Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx and Manosque (p. 166).
+Nice to St. Martin Lantosque+ by coach, and thence to
Cuneo by the Col di Finestra 180
+Nice to Puget-Theniers+ and Saint Sauveur by coach. From
St. Sauveur an excellent road by the side of the Tinée
ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio
(map, p. 165). 182
+Nice to Cuneo+ by the tunnel of the Col di Tenda 182
+Savona to Turin+ by Carru, Bra, Cavallermaggiore and
Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N. 183
+Beaulieu to Port St. Jean+ and the Lighthouse--a pleasant
walk 185
+Monte Carlo to Nice+ by the coast-road 189
+Monaco to La Turbie+ and the Tête de Chien 191
+MENTON to GENOA+--the western part of the Italian
Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente 200
BORDIGHERA, up the valley of the Nervia, TO PIGNA 201
SAN REMO TO MONTE BIGNONE 205
+GENOA to PISA and LEGHORN+--the eastern Italian Riviera,
or the Riviera di Levante 219
+Avenza to Carrara+ by rail--a very easy and interesting
excursion 222
PISA TO FLORENCE by Pontedera and Empoli (map, p. 199) 227
PISA TO FLORENCE by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato 227
LUCCA TO THE BATHS OF LUCCA 230
FLORENCE TO VALLOMBROSA 277
GENOA TO TURIN by Alessandria--a very interesting railway
journey 279
END OF THE RIVIERA.
+PARIS to TURIN+ 281
+PARIS to MODANE+ 281
AIX-LES-BAINS TO GENEVA by Annecy 286
+Modane to Turin+ 291
BUSSOLENO TO SUSA 291
+Turin to Torre-Pellice+ by Pinerolo 305
TORRE-PELLICE TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col de la Croix 306
PEROSA TO MONT-DAUPHIN by the Col d’Abriés 307
PEROSA TO CESANNE by the Col de Sestrières 307
SALUZZO TO MONT DAUPHIN by the Col de la Traversette 308
CUNEO TO BARCELONNETTE (_see_ BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO) 341
+TURIN to FLORENCE+ by Piacenza, Parma, Modena and Bologna
309
ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY TO COURMAYEUR by the Little Saint
Bernard 320
+PARIS to MODANE+ by Lyons, Voiron and Grenoble. This is
the route to take to visit the Grande Chartreuse and the
picturesque valleys about the formidable group of the
Ecrin mountains 322
GRENOBLE TO SASSENAGE 327
+Grenoble to Briançon+ by Bourg d’Oisans and the Col de
Lautaret. A grand mountain road 328
BOURG D’OISANS TO LA BERARDE, at the base of the Ecrin
group, by Vosc and St. Christophe 329
BRIANÇON TO MT. PELVOUX by La Bessée and the Val Louise 333, 345
BRIANÇON TO OULX by Mt. Genèvre and Cesanne 333
+Grenoble to Corps+ by La Mure (map, p. 27). From Corps
another diligence proceeds to Gap (p. 340). From Corps the
pilgrimage is made to N. D. de la Salette 333
GONCELIN TO ALLEVARD-LES-BAINS 336
+MARSEILLES to GRENOBLE+ by Gardanne, Aix, St. Auban,
Sisteron, Serres, Veynes, Aspres, Clelles and Claix (map,
p. 27) 338
ST. AUBAN TO DIGNE 339
DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by La Javie and Seyne (map, p. 304)
339
DIGNE TO BARCELONNETTE by Draix, Colmars and Allos 339
+VEYNES to MONT DAUPHIN-GUILLESTRE+ station, 51 miles N.E.
by rail. Both of these towns are at the French end of
several of the important passes between France and Italy 340
GAP TO BARCELONNETTE 341
BARCELONNETTE TO CUNEO (map, p. 27) 341
GAP TO GRENOBLE by Corps (map, p. 304) 342
MONT-DAUPHIN TO SALUZZO (map, p. 304) 344
PARIS TO LYONS by Saint Etienne (map, p. 27) 346
PARIS TO LYONS by Tarare (map, p. 27) 348
LYONS TO CLERMONT-FERRAND by Montbrison (map, p. 27) 349
PARIS TO MARSEILLES by Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes (see map
on fly-leaf) 351
MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-L’ARCHAMBAULT by Souvigny
and Saint Menoux (map, p. 1) 356
MOULINS TO THE BATHS OF BOURBON-LANCY by Dompierre and
Gilly. Beyond Gilly is Paray-le-Monial (p. 27, map p. 1) 357
ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSÉS TO VICHY 359
CLERMONT-FERRAND TO BRIVE by Laqueuille 376
LAQUEUILLE TO THE BATHS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE 377
MONT-DORE TO ISSOIRE by the Baths of St. Nectaire 385
A diligence runs between St. Nectaire and the Coude
railway station.
MAPS AND PLANS.
PAGE
+Ardèche+, general map of, including the northern part of
the department of Drôme and the southern of the
Haute-Loire 46
This map contains a large part of the valleys of the
Rhône and the Allier, the towns of Le Puy, Vals, Beage,
Langogne, Cheilard, Tournon, Valence, La Voulte, etc.,
the source of the Loire and Mount Mezenc.
+Arles+, a town of great interest 68
+Avignon+, Plan of 59
+Bologna+, Plan of 316
+Cannes+, Environs of 155
Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.
+Cannes+, Plan of 149
+Corniche Road+ 185
Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice
to Menton, as well as that of the lower and perhaps more
beautiful road between Nice and Monte-Carlo, extending
along the coast, nearly parallel to the railway.
This map contains also the +Environs+ of Nice, Monaco,
and Menton.
+Dijon+, Plan of 20
+Estérel Mountains+, or +Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes+
146
+Florence+, Plan of 234
The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana
up to the Piazza Michelangiolo.
+Galleria degli Uffizi+ 237
The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast
edifices on both sides of the Arno; united by long
corridors, which from the Uffizi straggle down to the
river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace by
the upper story of the houses bordering the Via
Guicciardini.
+Genoa+, Plan of 214
+Hyères+, Environs of 129
As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the
same, the environs of both towns are given on the same
map.
+Italian Riviera+, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to
Leghorn 199
Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di
Levante. The French Riviera is given on the map of the
“Rhône and Savoy,” and parts on a larger scale on the
maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to Cannes,” and
the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”
+Leghorn+, Plan of 226
+Lyons+, General plan of 30
+Lyons+, Partial plan of 33
+Marseilles+, Plan of 113
+Marseilles to Cannes+ 123
This map shows the position of the towns and villages on
the coast and in the interior, the roads between them
and the Marseilles canal; which, from the Durance,
enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side
are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of
Hyères,” of which the largest is Porquerolles.
+Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291
This plan shows the railway from St. Pierre-d’Albigny to
Turin by Modane and Susa. Rail from St. Pierre to
Albertville; whence coach-road to Courmayeur by
Moutiers, Bourg-St. Maurice, Seez and the Little St.
Bernard. Coach road from Albertville to Annecy on Lake
Annecy.
+Mont-Dore+ and +Bourboule+, Map of environs 378
+Nice+, Plan of 171
+Nîmes+, interesting Roman ruins 101
+Paris to Vichy, Macon+, Bourg and Geneva, situated
towards the S. and S.E. Carlsruhe, Baden, Strasburg,
Freiburg, Basel, Schaffhausen, Lucerne and Interlaken to
the E., and Epernay, Verdun and Metz to the N. 1
+Pisa+, Plan of 224
The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find
their way unaided to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral,
the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo or Cemetery. The
frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the
cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who
have to remain over the night should take one of the
hotels close to the station.
+Railway Map+ _Fly-leaf_
This map shows all the railway routes in France and
their correspondence with the railways in Belgium,
Prussia, Baden, Switzerland, Italy and Spain. Also the
railways on both sides of the Rhine and of the Rhône.
+Rhône and Savoy+ 107
This map gives the entire course of the Rhône in France,
with the railways on both sides from Lyons to Avignon.
The Railroads and Passes between France and Savoy. The
French Riviera.
+Savona to Rapallo+ 211
Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter
stations of Arenzano, Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi,
Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.
+The Durance to the Var and San Remo+ 163
This map shows principally the position of the towns in
the interior, approached by diligence from Grasse (near
Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice. From Nice start the
diligences which run between France and Italy.
+The French and Italian Waldensian valleys+, with the
mountain-passes between them 304
+The high volcanic peaks+ in the department of Ardèche;
among which are Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, with the
source of the Loire 84
+The Italian Riviera+ or north-west Italy, including the
railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence 200
+The Mouths of the Rhône+ 66
Showing the position of the canals and of the great
lakes in this neighbourhood. The principal towns are
Marseilles, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Avignon,
Aigues-Mortes and Montpellier. The Marseilles canal from
the Durance commences opposite Pertuis directly N. from
Marseilles (see pp. 77, 115, and 338). A little farther
down the Durance is the commencement of the Craponne
canal (p. 66).
+The plains between the Ardèche, Rhône and Durance+, in
which are situated Aubenas, Alais, Montélimart, Pont-St.
Esprit, Orange, Carpentras, Vaison and other places of
interest 56
+Thermometer+, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale 107
+Toulon+, Environs of 129
This map will be found very useful in the excursions
by the small steamers sailing from the port.
+Troyes+, Plan of 12
+Turin+, Plan of 293
+Vichy+, Plan of 359
CARTE DU JOUR.
The following List contains the explanation of the technical terms of
some of the most useful dishes mentioned in the “Cartes du Jour” of the
restaurants. Fancy names cannot be translated.
[Transcriber’s Note:
The following section is given exactly as printed. Some items may
require added salt.]
SOUPS.
_Consommé_, beef-tea.
_Bouillon_, broth.
_Potage_, soup.
_Julienne_, vegetable soups.
_Purée_, pease-soup.
_Purée_, when qualifying a noun, means “mashed,” as--
_Purée de pommes_, mashed potatoes.
„ „ _marron_, mashed chestnuts.
BEEF.
_Bœuf au naturel_, or simply “nature,” plain boiled beef.
_Naturel_ in cookery means “plain.”
_Bœuf à la mode_, beef stewed with carrots.
Nearly the same as the next.
_Bœuf à la jardinière_, beef with vegetables.
_Aloyau_, a sirloin of beef.
_Aloyau a la jardinière_, sirloin with vegetables.
_Aloyau sauté_, sirloin in slices.
_Sauté_ in cookery means “sliced.”
_Rosbif aux pommes_, roast beef with potatoes.
In these lists the words _de terre_ are rarely affixed to _pommes_.
_Bifteck au naturel_, plain beefsteak.
„ _aux pommes_, with potatoes.
„ _aux pommes sautées_, with sliced potatoes.
„ _aux haricots_, with kidney beans.
„ _bien cuit_, well done.
„ _saignant_, under done.
_Palais de Bœuf au gratin_, broiled ox palate.
_Au gratin_ in cookery means “baked” or “broiled”; when applied
to potatoes it means “browned.”
MUTTON.
_Côtelettes de mouton au naturel_, plain mutton chops.
„ „ „ _panées_, mutton chops fried with crumbs.
„ „ „ _aux pointes d’asperge_, mutton chops with
asparagus tops.
„ „ „ _à la purée de pommes_, mutton chops with
mashed potatoes.
_Gigot roti_, a roast leg of mutton.
_Pieds de mouton_, sheep’s trotters.
_Gigot d’agneau_, a leg of lamb.
_Blanquette d’agneau_, hashed stewed lamb.
_Rognons à la brochette_, broiled kidneys.
„ _sautés_, sliced kidneys.
_Etuvé_, stewed.
VEAL.
_Côtelette de veau_, veal cutlet.
_Tête de veau en vinaigrette_, calf’s head with oil and vinegar.
_Oreille de veau en marinade_, pickled calf’s ear.
_Ris de veau_, sweetbread.
_Foie de veau_, calf’s liver.
_Blanquette de veau_, hashed stewed veal.
_Fricandeau au jus_, Scotch collops with gravy.
_Jus_, gravy.
VEGETABLES.
_Pommes de terre_, potatoes.
_Legumes et fruits primeurs_, early vegetables and fruits.
_Asperges à la sauce_, asparagus with sauce.
_Chou_, cabbage.
_Champignons_, mushrooms.
_Epinards_, spinage.
_Fêves de marais_, garden beans.
_Haricots verts_, green kidney beans.
_Oseille_, sorrel.
_Petits pois_, green peas.
_Jardinière_ means “dressed with vegetables.”
POULTRY AND GAME.
_Poularde_, fowl.
_Poulet_, chicken.
_Chapon_, capon.
_Cuisse de poulet_, leg of a chicken.
_Des œufs à la coque_, boiled eggs.
_Dindonneau_, young turkey.
_Canard_, duck.
_Perdreau_, partridge.
_Mauviettes_, field-larks.
_Alouettes_, larks.
_Grives_, thrushes.
_Becasse_, woodcock.
_Becassine_, snipe.
_Chevreuil_, venison.
_Caille_, quail.
FISH.
_Anguille_, eel.
_Eperlans_, smelts; or, as the Scotch call them, sperlings.
_Homard_, lobster.
_Huitres_, oysters.
_Merlans_, whitings.
_Morue_, cod.
_Raie_, skate.
_Saumon_, salmon.
_Sole_, sole.
_Turbot_, turbot.
_Frit_, fried.
_Grillé_, done on the gridiron.
DESSERT.
_Compote_, applied to fruits, means “stewed.”
„ _de pommes_, stewed apples.
„ _de pruneaux_, stewed prunes.
_Beignets de pommes_, apple fritters.
„ „ „ _soufflés_, puffed apple fritters.
_Mendiants_, raisins, nuts and almonds.
DRINK.
_Vin de Bordeaux_, claret.
A bottle of soda-water is called a _siphon_. The cheap wines ought
always to be drunk with it, or with common water.
At even the cheap restaurants palatable wine may be had by paying
a little extra.
_Frappé_, applied to liquids, means “iced.”
_Caraffe frappé_, iced water.
_Vin frappé_, iced wine.
The litre of beer is called a _canette_, and the half-litre a
_choppe_.
The fifth part of a litre of wine is called a _carafon_, a word
often used in the cheap restaurants.
[Map:
Paris to Vichy, Macon, Bourg, Geneva &c.]
THE DIRECT ROAD TO THE RIVIERA.
+Paris to Lyons, Marseilles, Hyères, Cannes, Nice,
Monaco and Menton, 692 miles.+
+PART I.--PARIS TO MARSEILLES.+
BY SENS, DIJON, LYONS, AND AVIGNON, 537 miles.
Best resting-places, Sens, Dijon, Macon, Lyons, and Avignon. For
“London to Marseilles,” see under that head in the “Continental
Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.” Through
tickets sold at their London office.
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{ }{537}
+PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Paris à Lyon,
No. 20 Boulevard Mazas, where purchase one of the Time-tables, 8 sous or
40 cents, the only absolutely trustworthy tables respecting the prices,
distances, and movements of the trains. Good restaurant at station.
Opposite the station is the H. de l’Univers, and a little farther off
the H. Jules César.
_Maps._--For the general route, consult map on fly-leaf; for the details
as far as Macon, map page 1; and for the remainder of the journey, map
page 26. The fare, third class, from London to Paris by Dieppe, by the
London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, is 17s. From Paris to
Marseilles, by the Paris and Lyons Railway, it is £2:7s., time 23 hours;
starting from the station of the Chemin de Fer de Lyon at 6.30 A.M., and
arriving next day at 5.33 A.M. From Marseilles a train starts at 6.35
A.M. for Toulon, where it arrives at 9 A.M. From Toulon a train starts
for Hyères at 9.32 A.M., and arrives at 10.13 A.M. The third-class
carriages between Paris and Marseilles are provided with separate
compartments for ladies, and with warming-pans. For those going to
Hyères, the nearest of the winter-stations, it is better, if possible,
not to break the journey, but to take a through ticket from Paris to
Hyères (£2:12s.), as every break adds considerably to the expense;
moreover, the train passes the most suitable resting-places at a most
inconvenient hour in the night. By the first class the whole journey
from Paris to Hyères can be done in 18¼ hours for £4:13:6.
The train, after leaving the station, skirts the S.W. corner of the Bois
de Vincennes at Charenton and St. Maurice, both upon the Marne, which
here joins the Seine. +Charenton+, 4 m. from Paris, pop. 9000, has a
large lunatic asylum founded in 1644. Boarders pay £60 the year. +St.
Maurice+, pop. 4300, has in the Château d’Alfort a veterinary college
with an hospital for animals, which takes horses for 2s. per day. It
contains a library, museum, and laboratory; and possesses a nursery for
the cultivation of grasses. Immediately beyond Fort Charenton are the
+Maisons-Alfort+, pop. 8000, on the Seine. Diana of Poitiers and
Robespierre resided here some time.
[Headnote: VILLENEUVE ST. GEORGE.]
9½ m. S. from Paris is the pretty town of Villeneuve St. George, pop.
1500, on the Seine, where it unites with the Yères, a deep river flowing
through a verdant valley. 3¼ m. farther is +Montgeron+ on the Yères,
pop. 1300, with the castle which belonged to Sillery, chancellor of
Henri IV.
On the other side of the river is the village of +Crosne+; where on
the 1st November 1636 was born, in the house No. 3 Rue Simon, Nicolas
Boileau Despréaux, died 13th March 1711. He was a great critic, and
the first to introduce French versification to rule. Through Pope and
his contemporaries he had also a strong influence on English
literature.
[Headnote: MELUN.]
13¾ m. from Paris is +Brunoy+, pop. 1550, an ancient town, which was
inhabited by the earliest kings of France. Louis XVIII. created the
Duke of Wellington Marquis of Brunoy. The train now traverses the
Yères viaduct, 1235 ft. long, on 28 arches 104½ ft. high. 28 m. S.
from Paris is the prettily situated town of MELUN, pop. 12,000.
_Inns:_ Grand Monarque; Commerce; both near each other, and near St.
Aspais. Between them is the omnibus office. Église Protestante. Melun,
the Melodunum of Julius Cæsar, occupies both banks of the Seine, and
the island in the centre, as well as both sides of the Almont, which
here enters the Seine. One long, nearly straight road, under the names
of the Avenue de Thiers, Rue St. Ambroise, Rue St. Etienne, Rue St.
Aspais, and the Rue du Palais de Justice, extends from the railway
station to the northmost limit of the town. In the part of Melun on
the left or south bank are large cavalry barracks. On the island is
the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., restored; with a neat 2 storied
tower over each transept, 10th cent. The large building behind the
church is the principal prison. Very near the church, in the Rue Notre
Dame, is the Eglise Protestante, a small chapel. Off the main street,
in the part of the town on the right or north bank, is St. Aspais, an
elegant church of the 14th cent. surrounded by crocketed gabled
chapels. By the side of the main entrance rises a buttressed square
tower, terminating in a high peaked roof prolonged into a short spire.
In the interior are some delicately sculptured canopy work and 8
windows with valuable old glass. A few yards off the main street is
the Hotel de Ville with a round attached turret in each corner; and in
the centre of the court a marble statue to Jacques Amyot, born in
1514, “Un des Grandes Reformateurs de la langue française au 16me
siècle.” Behind are the public gardens containing some capitals of
ancient columns. Near it is the Place St. Jean, with a handsome
fountain. North-west from St. Aspais are the Prefecture and the belfry
St. Barthélemy, restored in 1858. The Palais de Justice, the theatre,
the Gendarmerie, and another of the prisons, are all together at the
north end of the town. The gardens of Melun produce excellent
pears--some are very large. Hardly 4 m. N.E. from Melun is the Chateau
of Vaux-Praslin, containing paintings by Lebrun and Mignard. From
Melun the line continues by the side of the Seine till Bois-le-Roi,
where it enters the forest of Fontainebleau.
[Headnote: FONTAINEBLEAU.]
{37}{500}
+FONTAINEBLEAU+ pop. 9200, about 2 miles from the Seine, and one from
the station; but omnibuses await passengers for the hotels. Fare, 30
c. For the Cour du Cheval Blanc of the Chateau, 50 c. The most
expensive hotels front the Chateau. The Londres; Europe; France et
Angleterre; Ville de Lyon; Aigle Noir; Lion d’Or. At the end of the
main street, No. 9 Rue Grande, is the Cadran Bleu. In the Rue de la
Chancellerie, near the Cour des Offices or east end of the Chateau, is
the H. de la Chancellerie. In the Rue de France, the H. de la Sirène.
The last 4 hotels are the most moderate in their charges. Situated
among the large hotels facing the Cour du Cheval Blanc is the Pension
Launoy; 1st storey, 13 frs., 2d, 11 frs. per day. For those who come
for one day, the best plan is to enter at the station any of the
Chateau omnibuses. Alight at the end of the Rue Grande, where there is
a square with a garden surrounded with good shops--a bookseller’s with
maps, plans, and photographs--souvenirs made from wood of the forest;
a good confectioner’s shop and some restaurants, where refreshments
can be had either before or after visiting the chateau. Those afraid
of losing the train, should, however, rather take their refreshments
at some of the restaurants opposite the station. From the end of the
Rue Grande, the Cour du Cheval Blanc is about 5 minutes’ walk.
Temple Protestant, in which an English service is also held.
_Coach Tariff._--The principal cab-stand is at the end of the Rue
Grande at the square. Before starting procure a plan, 1½ fr., of the
forest in the shop opposite.
A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 20 frs. for the
day, with a gratuity to the coachman. For 4 persons, with 1 horse, 10
frs. for the day.
Carriages may also be engaged by the hour at the following
prices:--
A four-wheeled carriage for 5 persons, with 2 horses, 4 frs. for the
first hour, and 3 frs. for each succeeding hour.
A four-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, for the first
hour 3 frs., and each succeeding hour 2 frs. 25 c.
A two-wheeled carriage for 4 persons, with 1 horse, 2 frs. an
hour.
Donkeys and mules may be hired at 3 frs. a day.
+Fontainebleau+ deserves a visit, not only to see the Chateau, but to
enjoy the delightful air and walks in the gardens and woods, which
cover an area of 18,740 acres, intersected by 12,000 m. of roads and
footpaths. The palace consists of square towers linked together by
congeries of low brick buildings, enclosing spacious courts, each
bearing some suggestive name. The roofing is said to occupy 14 acres.
The palace is open from 11 to 4. The men who show it attend in one of
the rooms on the left side of the “Cour des Adieux,” or “du Cheval
Blanc,” which court forms the _main entrance_. A small fee is
expected; but as the Palace belongs to the State, it is not
obligatory.
To see the “appartements reservés” an especial order is requisite,
procured by letter addressed to “M. Le Commandant des Chateaux.” The
“appartements reservés” comprehend sometimes a greater, and sometimes
a smaller number of rooms, according to the requirements of the
household, but never any of the splendid halls. The order observed in
showing the Palace is constantly changed, yet the itinerary we give
will be found in the main correct. It is sometimes reversed.
The Chateau of Fontainebleau, as it now stands, was founded by
Francis I., who commenced by demolishing the whole of the former
edifice, excepting the pavilion of St. Louis, which still exists.
Henri IV., who spent £100,000 upon it, doubled the area of the
buildings and gardens, and added, among other portions, the gallery of
Diana and the gallery des Cerfs. Napoleon I. expended £250,000 upon
it, and Louis XVIII. and Louis Philippe contributed also large
sums.
[Headnote: ENTRANCE.]
The +principal entrance+ is at the west end by the Cour du CHEVAL
BLANC, the largest of all the courts, measuring 498 ft. by 368. It is
also called the Cour des Adieux, because here Napoleon I., forsaken by
nearly all his generals, took leave, on the 20th of April 1814, of the
ever-faithful soldiers of his Old Guard, from whom he tore himself
away amidst sobs and tears, and threw himself into his carriage. On
the 19th of March 1815 he was back again in this palace from the
island of Elba, wandering with almost infantine joy through the
splendid apartments which had witnessed his glory and his
wretchedness.
As very little time is given to inspect the different articles, the
following abridged list should be read before entering.
[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE LA TRINITÉ.]
The visitor enters by the door under the Horseshoe staircase, which
has 46 steps on each side. To the right, the longer of the 2 iron bars
in the wall represents the height of Francis I. The first place
entered is the +Chapelle de la Trinité+, built by Francis I. in 1529,
and largely decorated by Henri IV. in consequence of the Spanish
ambassador having remarked that “the palace would be more beautiful if
the Almighty were as well housed as his majesty.” Louis XI. was
married in this chapel. The divorce between Napoleon and Josephine was
pronounced in it; and here, in 1810, Napoleon III. was baptized. The
paintings are by Fréminet, made during the reigns of Henri IV. and
Marie de Médicis and Louis XIII. The high altar was finished in the
reign of Louis XIII. by Bordogni. The reredos is by Jean Dubois. The
statues on each side of the altar, representing Charlemagne and St.
Louis, are by G. Pilon. The magnificent angels, which support the
escutcheons of France and Navarre, are by Jean Goujon. The 4 bronze
angels are by G. Pilon.
[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON.]
Ascend staircase to the APARTMENTS OF NAPOLEON. The first room is the
Antichambre des +Huissiers+ (ushers), painting by Brenet, 1785.
Cabinet des +Secretaires+, paintings by Vanloo, Doyen, and Hallé. Pass
now through a small passage, painted with flowers by Spraendonck, to
the most charming +Salle des Bains+. The walls are of plate glass, on
which are painted, in graceful forms and lovely colours, cupids,
birds, and flowers. The bath-room opens into the +Abdication Room+,
containing the famous mahogany table, about a yard in diameter, on
which Napoleon signed his abdication, 5th April 1814. Walls hung with
rich embroidered satin from Lyons. +Cabinet de Travail+ (study) of the
Emperor. Beautiful writing desk by Jakob. Painting on ceiling
represents law and justice. +Bedroom of Napoleon+ I. and III. Bed
restored under Louis Philippe, and hung with silk velvet from Lyons.
Round the wall grisaille paintings of cupids, admirable imitations of
relief, by Sauvage. Clock, present from Pio VII. to Napoleon. +Salon
de Famille+ or Salle du Conseil; dates from François I. and +Henri
IV.+, and made by Louis XV. his study. In centre of room mahogany
table, 6 yards in circumference, one piece. The 20 red and blue
symbolical paintings round wall are by the two Vanloos. On ceiling
arms of France on gold ground. Furniture covered with Beauvais
tapestry of time of Louis XV. Clock of Louis XIV. Throne-room. Built
by Charles IX., ornamented by Louis XIII. and XIV., to which
Napoleon I. added the throne. In this room the marshals of France used
to take their oath of allegiance. The ceiling magnificently gilt and
painted, and chimney-piece in same style. Over it portrait of Louis
XIII. The lustre of rock crystal is valued at £2000.
[Headnote: APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE.]
APARTMENTS OF MARIE ANTOINETTE and of the Empress Eugenie. Aurora on
ceiling by Barthélemy. Arabesques of the panels on green ground. On
console tables by Coindrel, 2 ivory vases presented to Napoleon I by
the Emp. of Austria. This room was fitted up for Marie Antoinette by
Louis XVI., who forged, but did not finish, the window bolts
(espagnolettes). +The Bedroom.+ Occupied successively by Marie de
Medicis, Maria Theresa of Austria, Marie Antoinette, Marie-Amélie,
wife of Louis Philippe, and the Empress Eugenie. The gorgeous drapery
and curtains of the bed were presented to Marie Antoinette by the city
of Lyons on the occasion of her marriage. Wall hung with the richest
satin, hand embroidered. Two wardrobes by Riésener. Clock of Louis
XVI. +Salon de Musique.+ Ceiling, Minerva and the Muses by Barthélemy,
1786. Over door the Muses painted in grisaille by Sauvage. Porcelain
table by Georget, 1806. Petit Salon, from which a door opens into the
GALERIE DE DIANE or Bibliothèque, built in 1600. The ceiling, divided
into compartments, is painted by Pujol and Blondel, representing
mythological scenes. In front of one of the windows are suspended the
sword and coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi, when he was assassinated
on the 15th of October 1657 by order of Christina of Sweden, second
daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. The atrocious deed took place in the
room immediately below, in the Galerie des Cerfs. The unfortunate man,
in parrying the first thrust, had 3 of his fingers cut off. He then
fell on his knees before his confessor Father Le Bel, sent him by
Christina, and, while praying God for pardon of his sins, one of the
murderers thrust his sword into his face; while the other first cut
off the crown of his skull, and then pierced his throat, which made
him fall to the ground, where he lay breathing for quarter of an hour.
Throughout all this terrible scene the kind priest kept bawling aloud
with all his might consolation to the dying man. That same evening he
was buried, near the holy water basin, in the church of Avon, 1 m. E.
from the chateau, at the extremity of the park. Monaldeschi was Queen
Christina’s chamberlain, and is supposed to have betrayed some of her
secrets. The Marquis begged most piteously Father Le Bel to implore
the Queen to spare his life; but when the confessor went to her and
beseeched her, in the name of Our Blessed Lord, to have mercy on the
unhappy man, she replied with petulance, “that she could not, and that
many had been condemned to the wheel who did not deserve it so much as
this coward.”
At the extremity of the gallery of Diana is the Salon de Diane, with
indifferent modern paintings by Blondel, representing the story of the
goddess Diana.
[Headnote: SALONS DE FRANCOIS I. AND LOUIS XIII. SALLES ST. LOUIS
AND DES GARDES.]
We now enter the Escalier de la Reine, ornamented with hunting scenes
by C. Parocel, 1688-1782; Oudry, 1686-1755; and F. Desportes,
1661-1743. The door to the left opens into the Galerie des Chasses,
not shown (see page 8). The other leads into
LES GRANDS APPARTEMENTS. The Antechamber. Ceiling of pinewood in gilt
compartments. Walls hung with ancient Gobelins tapestry. Salon des
+Tapisseries+ hung with beautiful tapestry, representing the loves of
Psyche. Sevres porcelain vase worth £600, gift to the Empress Eugenie.
+Salon de François I.+ Napoleon I. and Charles X. used it as their
dining-room. Louis Philippe restored the ceiling. The Flemish tapestry
represents royal hunting scenes. In the centre of chimney-piece fresco
by Primaticcio, Mars and Venus. The ebony cabinets are of the 15 and
16 cents. Furniture covered with very remarkable Beauvais tapestry.
+Salon de Louis XIII.+ The small Venetian looking-glass, one of the
earliest manufactured, and the first that came to France, indicates
the place where the bed of Marie de Médicis stood when Louis XIII. was
born. The paintings on the ceiling and on the walls represent the
story of Theagenes and Charicles, which had been translated from the
Greek by Jacques Amyot, and dedicated to Francis I. Beautiful marble
chimney-piece. Salle de +Saint Louis+. Over chimney-piece equestrian
statue in relief of Henri IV. by Jacquet. Salon des Aides-de-Camp.
Portraits in Gobelins tapestry of Henri IV. and Louis XV., 1773-1777.
Salle des +Gardes+, principally by Charles IX., but restored by Louis
Philippe. In the medallions above the five real and mock doors are
portraits of Francis I., with the allegorical figures of Might and the
Fine Arts; Henri II., with figures of Diana and Liberality; Antoine
Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+), with figures of Hope and Abundance;
Henri IV., with figures of Peace and Glory; and Louis XIII., with
figures of Religion and Justice. Beautiful chimney-piece by Jacquet,
1590, 17 ft. high and 13 wide. In centre bust of Henri IV., and at
each side statues of Might and Peace by Francarville. A very pretty
little room, with floor of inlaid wood, corresponding in design with
the ceiling, leads to the
ESCALIER DU ROI. The top part of this staircase, built by Louis XV.,
was originally the Chambre de la Duchesse d’Etampes. The frescoes,
representing scenes in the life of Alexander, are chiefly by Niccolo
dell’ Abate, indifferently restored in 1836 by Abel Pujol.
GALERIE DE HENRI II., or Salle des Fêtes. The most magnificent hall in
the palace, shining with gold, 90 ft. long by 30 wide, lighted on one
side by 5 windows looking into the Cour Ovale, and on the other by the
same number looking to the gardens. It was built by François I., and
decorated by Henri II. for his favourite Diane de Poitiers. The walls
are covered with frescoes between gilt coupled columns by Primaticcio,
Rosso, and Abate, restored in 1864 by Alaux. The ceiling, of walnut,
is divided into 27 compartments, elaborately ornamented with scrolls,
mouldings, and friezes, all richly gilt, and enclosing the ciphers of
Henri II. and of Diana. The chimney-piece, of rare marbles, covered
with fleurs-de-lis, is by Rondelet. At the end of this gallery is one
of the entrances into the chapel of St. Saturnin, generally closed
(see page 8). We return now to the Escalier du Roi, where we enter
the
GALERIE DE FRANÇOIS I., parallel to the apartments of Napoleon, 210
ft. long by 20 wide. It was built by Francis to serve as a
communication between the Courts of the Cheval Blanc and of St. Louis.
Ceiling in variously shaped gilt panels, producing a curious effect.
The frescoes, representing mythological scenes, are chiefly by Rosso,
but a few are by Primaticcio, restored by Condere. Bust of François I.
From the vestibule of the Horseshoe staircase we enter the
APPARTEMENTS DES REINES MERES et du Pape Pie VII. They were inhabited
by Catherine de Médicis and Anne of Austria (mother of Louis XIV.),
whose portraits hang opposite each other in the bedroom; and also by
Pope Pius VII., more, however, as a prisoner than a guest of
Napoleon I. The magnificent bedstead was put up by Napoleon III. for
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, when they were expected to have
visited Fontainebleau. The tapestry is of the finest quality from the
Gobelins manufactory, and the paintings are by Coypel, Mignard, and
other French masters. +Antechamber.+ Portrait of Diana de Poitiers as
the goddess of the chase, one of Primaticcio’s best works. Cabinet
(Bahut) of time of Louis XIII. Walls hung with embossed leather.
Furniture covered with Cordova leather. +Salles des Officers.+ Hung
with Gobelins tapestry, representing the story of Esther. +Salon.+
Walls hung with beautiful coloured Gobelins. Furniture covered with
Beauvais tapestry. Elegant ceiling, divided into compartments bearing
the initials of Anne of Austria and of Louis XIII. +The Old Bedroom+
(see above). Modern furniture in style of Louis XIII. Table in mosaic
given by Pio IX., bearing his signature. Very beautiful ceiling by
Cotelle de Meaux. +Study+ of Pio VII.--portrait of him by David.
Dressing-room--wardrobe of inlaid wood by Riésener, one of the finest
in France. Bust of Louis XV. by Lemoyne, 1751. +New Bedroom+--bedstead
of time of Louis XIV., enlarged in reign of Louis Philippe. +Salon de
Reception+--Gobelins tapestry--furniture of time of Louis XV. Bust of
Napoleon by Canova. +Waiting-room+ or Salle d’Attente. Gobelins dating
from the time of Louis XV. Beautiful clock of Louis XVI.
+Antechamber.+ 4 pictures by Breughel, of which one is on wood.
Vestibule of the Galerie des Fresques.
GALERIE DES FRESQUES or Des Assiettes. All the pictures in this
gallery were painted in fresco in the reign of Henri IV. by Ambroise
Dubois on the gallery of Diana, whence they were removed in 1805, and
some of them put on canvas. In addition Louis Philippe placed on the
walls 128 plates, with views of the royal residences in France, and
incidents connected with Fontainebleau. We now enter the gallery
leading to the
SALLE DE SPECTACLE or theatre, built by Napoleon III., and seated for
400. Visitors now leave the palace by the staircase of Charles VIII.,
adorned with a statue of him in stucco.
[Headnote: CHAPELLE DE ST. SATURNIN.]
LES APPARTEMENTS RESERVES.
+Chapelle Basse de St. Saturnin+, built by Louis VII. after his return
from Palestine, and consecrated by Thomas à Becket in 1169. The
painted glass of the windows was manufactured at Sevres from designs
by the Princess Marie, 1836, daughter of Louis Philippe; and the altar
is the same at which Pope Pius VII. performed mass during his stay at
Fontainebleau from 1812 to 1814. The lower chapel was reconstructed in
1545 by Francis I., upon which he built the +Upper Chapel+. It was
ornamented with charming frescoes, in the reign of +Henri IV.+, about
the year 1608. Napoleon III. commenced the restoration.
Adjoining the lower chapel a corridor leads to the Ancienne Salle à
Manger de Louis Philippe, or the Galerie des Colonnes, of the same
dimensions as the Galerie de Henri II. immediately over it. To the
right is the old spiral staircase of Francis I.
Galerie des Cerfs, built by Henri IV., under the +Galerie de Diane+,
ornamented with views of the royal residences, indifferently executed.
It was here Monaldeschi was murdered (see p. 6).
Appartements des Chasses, consisting of two rooms, hung round with
pictures representing dogs, game, and hunting scenes. The best by
J. B. Oudry.
Appartements de Madame de Maintenon, consisting of an antechamber,
saloon, boudoir, and toilet-room. They are of no interest further than
that it was in one of them, it is said, that Louis XIV. signed the
revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which led to such
cruelties. The embroidery on the furniture and screen is by the noble
pupils of St. Cyr. Adjoining is the Galerie de Henri II. (see
p. 7).
The Musée Chinois, consisting of a valuable and interesting collection
of articles from China, cannot be seen without especial
permission.
THE COURTS.
From the Cour du Cheval Blanc an arched way, near the Horseshoe
staircase, leads through to the +Cour de la Fontaine+. In the side
facing the lake is the Galerie de François I. Having passed through
the porch in the N.E. corner of the Cour de la Fontaine, we have
before us the gardens and forests of Fontainebleau, and immediately to
the left the +Porte Dorée+, one of the gates that opens into the +Cour
Ovale+. It is generally closed. On the soffit and sides are frescoes
on a gold ground by Primaticcio, restored in 1835 by Picot. The
subjects are mythological. Charles V. entered by this gateway in 1539.
And by this portal the Duchesse d’Etampes fled from Fontainebleau,
driven from it by the haughty and jealous Diana. Eastward to the left
we pass the apsidal portion of St. Saturnin, supported by narrow
buttresses, faced with pillars and pilasters. Both here and on the
Porte Dorée is the device of Francis I., a salamander. The principal
entrance to the Cour Ovale faces the Cour des Offices.
At the east end of the palace, fronting the Place d’Armes, connected
with the Rue Grande by the Rue de la Chancellerie, is the Cour de
Henri IV. or Des Offices, 285 ft. long by 255 wide, occupied by the
artillery college, formerly at Metz. The course lasts 2 years. The
gateway is grand, but heavy; the buildings contain nothing
particular.
[Headnote: DRIVES IN THE FOREST.]
Excursions into the forest. Those wishing to walk should provide
themselves with a pocket compass and a copy of the plan of the Forêt
de Fontainebleau, 1½ fr. In the forest the posts painted red indicate
the way back to the town; the black posts lead in the other direction.
The coachmen are acquainted with all the roads. The artistic part of
the forest comprises only 3719 acres. The following are the three
principal drives, each requiring 6 hours:--
1. Croix du Grand Veneur par la Tillaie--Point de vue du camp de
Chailly par la Table du Grand Maitre et le carrefour de Belle
Vue--Barbison par le Bas Bréau--Gorges d’Apremont et Franchard.
2. Vallée du Nid de l’Aigle--Mont Ussy--Caverne d’Augas--Vue sur le
champ de Courses et Mont Chauvet--Gorges et Rochers de la
Solle--Rocher St. Germain--Bocages des Ecouettes--Fort
l’Empereur--Calvaire--Roche Eponge et Point de vue de Nemorosa.
3. Rocher Bouligny--Rocher des Demoiselles--Gorge aux Loups et Mare
aux Fées--Long Rocher et Arcades de la Vanne par la Croix du Gd.
Maitre.
The most picturesque parts of the first drive, or perhaps in the whole
forest, are the ravines of Apremont, about 3 m. N.W. from
Fontainebleau; and Franchard, about 2½ m. W. The second contains the
best places for obtaining good general views of the forest, such as
from the Croix du Calvaire, near the railway station, but especially
from the Fort de l’Empereur, about 2½ m. N. The Gorge aux Loups in the
3d drive, 3½ m. S., leads to a very picturesque part called the Long
Rocher. If only one drive can be taken, take the first, 3¼ m. by rail
from Fontainebleau.
After Fontainebleau is Thomery. _Inn_: Popardin, where the famous
grape, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau, is grown extensively on walls
and trellis-work.
[Headnote: MORET. JEAN SANS PEUR.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{42}{495}
+MORET+, pop. 2000. _Inn_: Écu de France. An ancient town on the Loing,
with remains of fortifications, 15th cent., and the two old city gates
Paris and Bourgogne. The church, containing some curious woodwork, is
principally of the 12th cent. The portal and organ are of the 15th.
7½ m. farther S.E. is Moutereau junction, where the Chemins de Fer of
the Paris and Lyons system unite with those of the Eastern system.
Montereau-faut-Yonne, pop. 7000; station about a mile from the town.
_Inn_: Grand Monarque, where the omnibus stops, near the post office.
Those who may require to wait for a train at this junction, should, if
time permit, drive up in the omnibus to the town and visit the parish
church, with its handsome columns gracefully ramifying into the groining
of the roof of the aisles. Suspended to the right of the high altar is
the sword of Jean Sans Peur. Beyond this church a fine stone bridge, or
rather two continuous bridges, cross the Seine and the Yonne, which here
unite. On the tongue of land between them is an equestrian statue of
Napoleon I.; and on the bridge over the Yonne a marble slab indicates
the spot where Jean Sans Peur was murdered in 1419. On the steep hill
overlooking the town is the handsome modern castle of Surville.
Montereau has important potteries.
[Headnote: SENS.]
{71}{466}
+SENS+ on the Yonne, pop. 12,400. _Inns_: Paris; Écu. The best street,
the Rue Royale, extends from north to south. At the north end is the
promenade, and going southwards up the street, we have first the statue
of the chemist Thénard, and then the cathedral. At the end of the street
is the arch erected in honour of the Duchess of Angoulême, when she
visited this city in 1828. Behind are spacious boulevards, which,
together with the promenade, form agreeable walks.
[Headnote: THOMAS À BECKET.]
The +Cathedral of St. Etienne+ was commenced in 972, but nearly
rebuilt two centuries afterwards. The façade, though not without
beauty, is heavy and massive. The south tower, 240 feet high, has a
belfry attached to it. In the interior, coupled columns, alternating
with massive piers, run down each side of the nave, supporting pointed
arches, over which runs a triforium of round arches on clustered
colonnettes. Against the 5th pier left is a reredos, with sculptured
canopies. In the chapel immediately behind the high altar is a
beautiful relief in marble, representing the death of St. Savinien,
first bishop of Sens, who suffered martyrdom in 240. In the adjoining
chapel is the mausoleum of the Dauphin, brother of Louis XVI., by
G. Coustou, and statues of Archbishop Duperron and his nephew. In the
next or 3d chapel, Becket used to officiate. The picture on the wall
by Bouchet, 1846, represents his assassination. He stayed, 1166, in
the abbey of St. Columba, 1 m. from the cathedral. It is now occupied
by the Sœurs de l’Enfance de Jesus. The transepts are lighted by
superb glass; but the best window is the second to the right on
entering from the façade, painted in 1530 by Jean Cousin. In a glass
case in the treasury are the mitre, albe, chasuble, stole, and maniple
worn by Thomas à Becket; discovered in 1523 in an old house adjoining
the cathedral; yet there does not exist sufficient evidence to prove
that they are genuine. In the same case is an ivory crucifix by
Girardon. In the case behind are enamels from Limoges, 15th century,
and two small paintings on marble by A. del Sarto. Next them is
valuable old tapestry. Near two shrines is a deed signed by St.
Vincent de Paul. In one of the shrines is a bone of the arm of Simeon.
Adjoining the cathedral is the hall, called the Officialité, restored
by Violet le Duc. The convent of St. Colombes is about 1 m. from the
church, and to the left of the high road. The only portion of the
present buildings that existed in Becket’s time is the piece parallel
to the Abbey Church. When in France, he lived chiefly in the
Cistercian Abbey of Pontigny, 7 m. S. from St. Florentin, page 16, and
13 m. N.E. from Auxerre, page 14. +Becket+ was assassinated at the
foot of the altar of St. Benedict in Canterbury cathedral in 1170, and
canonised two years afterwards. Down to the Reformation pilgrimages
were made to his shrine by devotees from every corner of Christendom.
Every 50th year a jubilee was celebrated in his honour.
[Headnote: TROYES.]
41 m. E. from Sens by the Chemin de Fer de l’Etat is TROYES, pop.
39,000. _Hotels_: At the station, the Grand Mulet. In the principal
street, the Rue Notre Dame, the hotels Saint Laurent, Commerce. In the
Rue Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel des Couriers.
[Headnote: CATHEDRAL. HENRY V.]
Troyes, the former capital of Champagne, is situate on the Seine,
canalised in the 12th century by Theobald IV. These canals move the
machinery of numerous manufactories of hosiery, paper, and linen,
which produce an annual average value of about two million pounds
sterling. Troyes is famous for the number and beauty of its churches,
of which the most important is the +Cathedral of St. Pierre et St.
Paul+, situated at the eastern side of the town, the railway station
being on the western or opposite side. This edifice, among the most
beautiful in France, was commenced in 1208, but as it was not finished
till the end of the 16th century, represents the different styles of
these intermediate epochs. The fine western façade belongs to the 16th
century, while the portal of the N. transept belongs to the 13th.
Three hundred and seventy-eight steps lead to the top of the tower
rising above the western façade. The building is 352 feet long, and
the transept 154 feet. Two spacious aisles run up each side of the
nave, separated by clustered columns supporting pointed arches, the
front row being surmounted by a narrow mullioned triforium and a lofty
clerestory, both lighted by beautifully-painted glass windows. The
height of the roof of the nave is 92 feet, and of the cupola 192. The
glass of the windows of the choir, of the roses in the transepts, and
over the western entrance behind the organ, is of the 13th cent. The
marble statues of Jesus and Mary in the first chapel, N. side of
choir, are of the 16th cent., and the altar piece, with reliefs in
wood, of the 17th cent. Before the high altar in this church Henry V.
of England was affianced to the Princess Catherine, daughter of
Charles VI. of France, on the 20th May 1420. Next day the famous
treaty was signed, which secured the crown of France to Henry by the
exclusion of the dauphin Charles, whenever the poor mad Charles VI.
should cease to live. Behind the high altar in the Lady chapel is a
Madonna by Simard, and the window containing the oldest glass in the
church. A stair to the right of the high altar leads to the treasury,
of no great interest. It contains croziers of the 13th century,
reliquaries of St. Loup and St. Bernard, with enamels of the 12th
century, a tooth of St. Peter in a small gold box, etc. In the
reliquary of St. Bernard is a bit of the skull of an Irish primate,
St. Malachie, who lived between the 11th and 12th centuries. A few
yards to the N. of the cathedral is the building containing the
_Library_, open from 10 to 3, with 125,000 volumes and 3600 MSS., in a
large hall, with windows composed of curiously-painted panelled panes.
Among the illuminated books are a Bible of St. Bernard and St. Paul’s
Epistles, 12th century. In the same building are the +Museum+, or
picture gallery, with paintings by Watteau, Coypel, Mignard, etc.;
[Headnote: SALLE SIMARD.] and the _Salle Simard_, containing a
valuable collection of the +Models made by Simard+ for his statues and
works in relief. Also some statuary by Girardon, and other French
sculptors. The museum is open to the public on Sundays and feast-days
from 1 to 4. On other occasions a small fee is expected. A short
distance eastward from the cathedral is the Hospice, and a little
beyond St. Nizier, with painted panel panes in the window of the
sacristy. The glass in the windows of the church is of the 16th
century. Westward, in Rue Urbain IV., is a gem of Gothic architecture,
the church of +St. Urbain+, built by that Pope towards the end of the
13th century. The high altar occupies the place where his father used
to sit in the exercise of his calling, which was that of a cobbler.
A short way N. is +St. Remi+, 14th century, with a bronze crucifix
over the altar by Girardon. Directly W. from St. Urbain, by the Rue de
l’Hotel de Ville, is the _Hotel de Ville_, built according to the
plans of Mansard, commenced in 1624, and finished in 1670. Beyond is
+St. Jean+, 14th century. The high altar was sculptured by Girardon,
while the painting of the Baptism of our Lord, forming the reredos of
the altar, is by Mignard. Behind, in the chapel “O Sacrum Convivium,”
are some good relief sculptures. From St. Jean, pass up northwards by
the Rue de Montabert. At the N. corner of the first division is the
Post Office; and at the end of the next division is +La Madeleine+,
commenced in the 12th century, and remarkable for its magnificent
jubé, or rood-loft, constructed by Jean de Gualde in 1508. The
beautiful windows behind the altar belong to the same period. The
nearly flat roof might have been called an achievement in Gothic
architecture, if the vaulting did not show signs of weakness. West
from St. Jean is +St. Nicolas+, 16th century, near the Hôtel Mulet. To
the right of the entrance a broad staircase leads up to a Calvary
containing a colossal statue of Christ. In the chapel below is a
statue of our Saviour by Gentil, representing him as rising from the
dead.
[Map: Troyes]
Near St. Nicolas is St. Pantaleon, 16th century. To the right on
entering is a Calvary by Gentil. On the panels of the pulpit are
beautiful reliefs in bronze by Simard. Behind the pulpit is the chapel
of St. Crispin, the patron of shoemakers, containing curious groups.
The glass of the windows is rich, while the numerous statues on
consoles give the church the appearance of a statue gallery.
South from the church St. Pantaleon by the Rue de Croncels, and its
continuation the Faubourg de Croncels, is the small chapel of St.
Gilles. In this neighbourhood, 1½ mile northwards from the barracks of
the Oratoire, by a road through gardens and fields, are the village
and church of St. André, of which the principal feature is the west
portal, constructed at the expense of the inhabitants in 1549, and
ornamented by Gentil.
Those who prefer to drive through the town should follow the order we
have adopted. A cab for four costs 3 frs. per hour; and for two,
2 frs. However, before entering request to see the tariff.
[Headnote: TROY WEIGHT.]
The weight known by the name of the Troy weight was brought from Cairo
during the time of the crusades, and first adopted in this city.
Troyes was the headquarters of Napoleon I. during his struggles in
1814.
[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{79}{458}
+VILLENEUVE-SUR-YONNE+, pop. 5100. _Hotel_: Dauphin. In the old castle
here of Pulteau the man “au masque de Fer” spent some days while on his
way to the Bastile (p. 158). Villeneuve is joined to its suburb, Saint
Laurent, by a bridge 700ft. long. 5 m. beyond, or 84 m. from Paris, is
St. Julien du Sault, pop. 1500. _Hotel_: Des Bons Enfants. A poor town,
nearly a mile from the station, but possessing a fine church, of which
the greater part of the choir, as well as the S. and N. porches, belong
to the 13th cent., and the remainder of the edifice to the 14th-16th
cents. Overlooking the town, and distinctly seen from the station, is a
ruined chapel belonging to the 13th cent.
{91}{446}
+JOIGNY+, pop. 7000. A good resting-place. _Hotels_: The Poste, between
the station and the bridge; the *Bourgogne, on the quay on the right
bank of the Yonne, which is the principal promenade. The most important
part of the town occupies the hill rising from the promenade, in which
are situated St. André, the most prominent of all; St. Jean, 16th cent.;
and St. Thibault, 15th cent.
{96}{441}
+LA ROCHE+, on the Canal de Bourgogne, at the confluence of the Armançon
and the Yonne. Large refreshment-rooms. Junction with branch line to Les
Laumes, 79½ m. southwards, passing by Auxerre, Cravant, Sermizelles,
Vezelay, Avallon, and Semur. (See map on p. 1.)
[Headnote: AUXERRE.]
LA ROCHE TO AUXERRE, VEZELAY, AND LES LAUMES.
12½ m. S. from La Roche is Auxerre, pop. 16,500, on the Yonne and the
hill rising from the river; Hôtel Laspard. Seen from the station, the
most prominent object is the Cathedral, to the right is St. Germain,
to the left St. Pierre, and, above St. Pierre, the Tour Guillarde or
Clock Tower, at the market-place. The Cathedral, +St. Etienne+, was
rebuilt in the 13th cent., over a crypt of the 11th. The tower over
the western entrance is 230 feet high. The north and south portals are
crowded with statues. The entire length of the church is 332 feet, and
of the transepts 128 feet. 110 feet intervene between the floor and
the vaulted roof of the nave and choir, and the pillars are 79 feet
high. The great western window, and the end windows of the N. and S.
transepts, contain superb glass set in light flamboyant tracery.
Adjoining is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal Palace, built in
the 13th cent. Near the Cathedral is the hospital and the church of
St. Germain, with a curious crypt of the 9th cent., but restored in
the 17th. Apply to the concierge at the gate beside the now isolated
tower, 173 feet high, built in the 11th cent. St. Pierre, begun in the
16th and finished in the 17th cent., is in Italian-Gothic.
Near the Hôtel de l’Épé is the church of St. Eusebe, founded in the
12th cent. The most remarkable parts of the church are the tower, the
capitals of the fascicled columns, and the glass of the windows around
the chapel of the Virgin behind the high altar. In the principal walk
is a statue of Maréchal Davoust. Coach from Auxerre to Pontigny and
Chablis. (For Pontigny, see page 16.)
13 miles east from Auxerre is Chablis, pop. 3000, Hôtel Lion d’Or, on
the Serein. The vineyards, occupying 30,000 acres, produce the
well-known white wine, of which the best growths are those of Val Mur,
Vauxdésir, Grenouille, Blanchot, and Mont de Milieu. When the quality
of the vintage is good, the wines are dry, diuretic, and of a flinty
flavour.
Cravant, pop. 1000, _Inn_: Hôtel de l’Espérance, on the Yonne, nearly
a mile from the station, owing its importance to its position at the
junction of the branch to Clamecy, 22 miles S., with the line to Les
Laumes, 56 miles S.E. Cravant is 85 miles from Nevers by Clamecy, and
116 miles from Paris by La Roche. (See map, page 1.)
[Headnote: SERMIZELLES.]
37¼ miles from La Roche, 14¼ miles from Cravant, and 42½ miles from
Les Laumes is Sermizelles, the station for Vezelay (6¼ miles distant),
for which a coach awaits passengers. Fare, 1½ fr. At the station there
is a comfortable little inn, the Hôtel de la Gare, where a private
vehicle can be had (20 frs.) for visiting Vezelay, Pont
Pierre-Perthuis (for the view), 2 miles distant, and St. Pêre; then
back to Sermizelles Station. See also p. 354.
[Headnote: VEZELAY. BECKET.]
+Vezelay+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la Poste. An ancient and decayed
town on the top of a hill, possessing one of the finest ecclesiastical
edifices in France, the Church of the Madeleine; restored by Violet le
Duc. The narthex belongs to the 12th cent., the nave and aisles to the
11th, and the choir and transept to the 12th and 13th. The length of
the building is 404, and the height of the roof 70 feet. The exterior
is unadorned, and supported by plain receding flying buttresses. The
doors and tympanum of the western entrance are enclosed by a wide
expanding circular arch with four sculptured ribs. Above rises a large
window with boldly sculptured mullions. Within the doorway is a
spacious narthex, of which the triforium is filled with antiquities
connected with the monastery which adjoined the church. To appreciate
the noble proportions, simplicity, and harmony of this vast edifice it
is necessary to have the door between this narthex and the nave
opened. The nave and aisles are lighted by forty small round-headed
windows, and their roofs rest on forty semicircular arches springing
from massive piers, with attached columns ornamented with the peculiar
capitals of their period. A triforium runs round the transept and
choir. Eleven circular columns, of one stone each, support the arches
which enclose the sanctuary. From the S. side of the choir a door
opens into what was formerly the “salle capitulaire,” built in the
12th cent. The cloister is a modern addition by Violet le Duc, who
also constructed the altar in the beautiful crypt below the choir.
Near the abbey church is St. Martin’s, 12th cent., and St. Etienne,
now used as a storehouse. The Port St. Croix (15th cent.), as well as
parts of the fortifications, still remain. Thomas à Becket celebrated
mass in the Madeleine on the 15th May 1166; when also, with the awful
forms provided by the Roman ritual, he pronounced sentence of
excommunication against John of Oxford and others, and would have
included Henri II. himself, had he not been informed that the King at
that time was seriously ill. At Vezelay, in 1190, the crusaders under
Richard Cœur-de-Lion joined those under Philippe-Auguste to set out on
the third crusade. Vezelay is the birthplace of Theodore Beza (June
24, 1519), one of the pillars of the Reformed Church. In his arms
Calvin expired.
1¼ m. from Vezelay is St. Pêre, pop. 2000, with a beautiful church of
the 14th cent., but the elegant steeple is of the 13th. 5 m. from St.
Pêre is the Château Baroche, which belonged to Marshal Vauban.
[Headnote: SEMUR.]
9½ m. E. from Sermizelles by rail is +Avallon+, pop. 6000, on the
Cousin. _Hotels:_ Chapeau Rouge; Poste. The parish church of St.
Lazare, 12th cent., is a beautiful but somewhat peculiar specimen of
Burgundian architecture. Coach awaits passengers at the station for
Saulieu, 17 miles distant, pop. 4000. Hôtel de la Poste. An
interesting town with a church, St. Andoche, 12th cent. The vineyards
of Avallon produce good wine. The best keeps well in bottle from
fifteen to twenty years. 10 miles S.W. from Avallon is the Forêt de
Morvan, whence Paris receives firewood, sent down the Yonne and Seine
in rafts.
After Avallon comes Rouvray, with vineyards producing good wine, and
then, 20 miles from Avallon and 12½ from Les Laumes, is Semur, pop.
4150. _Hotels:_ Côte d’Or; Commerce. Picturesquely situated on the
Armançon, about a mile from the station. The parish church of Notre
Dame was founded in 1065 by Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, rebuilt in
the 13th cent., and repaired in 1450. The entrance is provided with a
sculptured porch. The windows of the N. aisle contain fine old glass;
the subjects are portrayed with great expression and quaintness. In
this part is a beautifully wrought tabernacle of one stone 16½ feet
high. At each transept is a small cloister. There are some pleasant
walks around and about the town. The dungeon tower and part of the
ramparts still remain. 12½ miles N.E. this branch line joins the main
line at Les Laumes, 160 miles from Paris. (See page 19, and map
page 1.)
[Headnote: SAINT FLORENTIN.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{107½}{429½}
+SAINT FLORENTIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ At station, H. de la Gare. In
town, H. Porte Dilo. Pilgrims to Pontigny alight here, whence a coach
starts in the afternoon for Chablis and Ligny, passing within a mile of
Pontigny. There is a small inn at the part where the Pontigny road
separates from the Chablis road.
Saint Florentin is on an eminence more than a mile from the station. The
parish church, 12th to 15th cents., is small, but interesting. The
windows contain 15th and 16th cent. glass, repaired with modern pieces.
The sanctuary is surrounded by a screen composed of slender colonnettes
standing diagonally, and is shut off from the nave by a beautiful
rood-loft. Behind the high altar, which is elaborately sculptured, is a
relief, 1548, sadly mutilated, representing the death and resurrection
of Jesus Christ.
At Pontigny there is a small but comfortable inn, the Hôtel St. Éloi,
but pilgrims to the shrine of St. Edmund are generally lodged in the
abbey buildings. From Pontigny a coach runs every other day to Auxerre,
13 m. S.W., stopping at a café near the station. The greater part of the
church of Pontigny was built in 1150. It is a plain vast edifice with
narthex and round turret at main entrance. The interior, which is grand
and imposing, is 355 ft. from W. to E., 72 ft. wide, and 72 high, and is
upheld by 30 arches springing from lofty massive piers. There are 11
chapels in the choir, but none in the nave. A row of small round-headed
windows extends round the church below the arches, and another, exactly
similar, above them. In a shrine, 18th cent., behind the high altar are
the bones of St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died in 1243 at a
village in the neighbourhood. The original shrine, a plain wooden
coffin, is upstairs in the cloister. The view of the interior of the
building is spoilt by an ugly screen, rendered necessary to shut off the
sanctuary from the rest of the church to make it more comfortable for
the villagers, whose parish church it has now become. The abbey
buildings, of which parts still remain in good condition, were inhabited
by Becket. In the treasury is the black strip of a stole he used to
wear, sewed on to another stole. Also relics of St. Edmund, and curious
deeds connected with him and others, who had retired to this, then an
austere Cistercian monastery. The walls of the cloister are hung with
engravings representing scenes in the life of St. Edmund.
Becket arrived at this abbey on the 29th of November 1164, and remained
till Easter 1166. From Pontigny he went to Vezelay, and from Vezelay to
Sens.
[Headnote: TONNERRE.]
{123}{414}
+TONNERRE+, pop. 6000, on the Armançon. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or; Courriers--
both near each other. The street St. Pierre, to the left of the Lion
d’Or, leads past the church of Notre Dame (now condemned) up to the
cemetery, and to the church of St. Pierre, situated on a terrace right
above the town. At the foot of this hill is a beautiful spring of water,
enclosed in a circular basin about 40 feet in diameter, called the Fosse
Dionne; but it is in a dirty part of the town, and used by the
washerwomen. A straight street to the right of the Lion d’Or leads down
to the hospital, built in 1834, the original part of which, built by
Marguerite de Bourgogne in 1293, is now the church of the hospital. Her
remains repose under a beautiful mausoleum in front of the high altar
(died September 4, 1308). To the left is the mausoleum of the Marquis
de Louvois (died 1691). The arrondissement of Tonnerre produces some
excellent wine.
[Headnote: TANLAY.]
{127½}{409½}
+TANLAY+, pop. 1000, on the Armançon. A small village with a handsome
castle in an extensive park. The oldest part was built by Guillaume de
Montmorenci, in 1520, but by far the largest portion by a brother of
Admiral Coligny, in 1559. The vast façade is flanked by two wings. The
principal court is 79 feet by 36. In a room in the second story of the
Tour de la Ligue the leaders of the Protestant party used to meet under
the presidency of Admiral Coligny. A fresco on the ceiling represents,
under the disguise of the gods of Olympus, the persons who took the most
prominent part in the political and religious events of that period.
Catherine de Médicis is portrayed as Juno, Charles IX. as Pluto, and the
Condé as Mars. Round the room are a series of curiously-constructed
recesses, communicating with each other in the walls. The largest of the
splendid chimney-pieces is 12½ feet high by 7 wide. Beyond the grounds
are the ruins of the abbey of de Quincy, and the well of St. Gaultier,
both of the 13th cent. At this station is a coach for Cruzy-le-Chatel,
pop. 1000, time 1 hour 45 minutes, among forests, and famous for
truffles.
[Headnote: ANCY-LE-FRANC.]
{136}{401}
+ANCY-LE-FRANC+, pop. 2000. The fine castle here was commenced in 1545,
and built according to the plans of Primaticcio.
{142}{395}
+NUITS-SOUS-RAVIERES+, pop. 700. Important junction with the Paris and
Bâle line, by Troyes (see page 11), by a branch extending 72 miles
north-east to Bricon, passing Châtillon, 22 miles north-east from Nuits.
In the environs of Nuits-sur-Armençon are the ruins of the castle of
Rochefort, 17th and 18th cents.
[Headnote: MONTBARD.]
{151}{386}
+MONTBARD+, pop. 3000, on the Canal de Bourgogne. _Inn:_ Hôtel de la
Poste. Buffon, the celebrated naturalist, was born in this small village
on the 7th of September 1707. His château, a plain large house, is
entered from the extremity of the main street farthest from the station.
The grounds are extensive, and laid out in terraces. On the western
front of the terrace is the small square house, with three windows and
one door, into which he retired at five in the morning to pursue his
studies. In another building he kept his manuscripts. In the grounds of
the château, on the walk below the dungeon tower of the castle of the
Dukes of Bourgogne, is the small column erected to his memory by his
son, who fell a victim to the tyranny of Robespierre, only fifteen days
before the downfall of that monster. Situated on a terrace at the
entrance of the grounds is the parish church, containing the tomb of
Buffon. A black stone slab over the door bears the following
inscription:--
BUFFON
A été inhumé dans le
Caveau de cette chapelle
Le 20 Avril 1788.
There is also a bronze statue of him here. 3½ miles from Montbard is the
abbey of Fontenay, founded in 1118; now a paper mill.
{160}{377}
+LES LAUMES.+ _Inn:_ H. Duvernet. Overlooking the station is Mount
Auxois, 1370 ft. above the sea. Near the top, and about 1½ mile from
the station, is the ancient Alesia (Alise-Sainte-Reine, pop. 900. _Inn:_
H. du Cheval Blanc), where Cæsar, B.C. 50, defeated the Gauls under
Vercingetorix, whose statue by Millet, pedestal by V. le Duc, stands
just above the hospital. The church of St. Thibault (14th cent.) has
some curious sculpture. It is visited by pilgrims on the 7th of
September. Four miles from Les Laumes is the Château Bussy Rabutin, in a
beautiful park of 84 acres, built by Renaudin, one of the benefactors of
the abbey of Fontenay, about the year 1150. It contains a valuable
collection of portraits of historical personages by eminent artists.
(See page 14.)
{165}{372}
+DARCEY+, pop. 850, 2 miles from its station, at the foot of steep
mountains 1315 ft. high. _Inn:_ Hôtel Guyot. Near the village are
curious caves, and a subterranean lake, the source of the Douix. Omnibus
at station for +Flavigny+, 1½ mile distant, pop. 1300, on a hill 1390
ft. above the Lozerain. Remains of fine old walls. Church 13th cent.,
with rood-loft 16th cent. Houses of 13th, 14th, and 15th cents. Convent
of the Ursulines, with splendid view.
[Headnote: SOURCE OF THE SEINE.]
{171¼}{365¾}
+VERREY+, pop. 900. _Inns:_ Hôtel de la Gare; Bourbogne. Station for the
+Source of the Seine+, 6¼ miles S. by the path over the hill through the
woods, but 9¼ by the carriage-road, which follows the railway till the
village of Villotte, pop. 800, where it ascends the hill towards
Bligny-le-Sec, pop. 700, 5 miles from Verrey, and after passing the
farmhouse Bonne Rencontre joins the Dijon road. Then turn to the left
and follow the Dijon road to a few yards beyond the 33 kilomètre (Côte
d’Or) stone, where take the narrow road to the left, which passes first
the farmhouse Vergerois and then descends to the source of the Seine
(1545 feet above the sea), under an artistic grotto in the midst of a
little garden enclosed by a railing. The keeper lives in the house
beyond. The tiny infant stream issues forth under the protection of a
recumbent statue of the river divinity. Coach there and back 10 frs., or
guide 5 frs. It is not necessary to return to Verrey. Those who please
can go back by the Dijon road to St. Seine, on the Cressonne, 5 miles
south, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Mack; Soleil d’Or. With a 14th cent, church.
A diligence runs between it and Dijon. The railway station for St. Seine
is Blaizy-Bas, 7½ m. distant.
{179}{358}
+BLAIZY-BAS+, situated at the commencement of the tunnel which pierces
through the basin of the Seine to that of the Rhône. It is 13,440 feet
long, and 1330 feet above the sea.
{190}{347}
+VELARS+, pop. 1400. After the preceding station of Malain, and before
reaching the next station, Plombières-sur-Ouche, there is some bold
railway engineering. The viaduct of the Combe-Bouchard is on two tiers
of arches and is 492 feet long, while that of Neuvon is 774 feet long.
From Velars commences the branch to Nevers by Autun, 74½ miles from
Nevers. (For Autun, see page 24.)
[Map: DIJON
The principal street is the Rue Guillaume. To the left is the Castle
built by Louis XI., now the Gendarmerie. Beyond, at No. 1, are the
Place and Statue of St. Bernard. No. 2 is the Préfecture. That large
building at the foot of the Rue Condé, Nos. 4 and 5, is the ancient
Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, containing the Hôtel de Ville, the
Museums, and the Post Office. No. 3 is the Church of Notre Dame; No. 6
St. Michel; and No. 7 the Theatre. Opposite the Palace, at No. 9, is
the Palais de Justice. The church near the station (No. 8) is St.
Bénigne, easily recognised by its lofty needle spire. Close to it is
St. Jean, the church of Bossuet.]
[Headnote: DIJON.]
{196}{341}
+DIJON+, pop. 48,000. Good refreshment-rooms at the station. _Hotels:_
La Cloche, in the Rue Guillaume; and the Jura, near the station. Near
the Cloche is the Galêre. Just outside the arch, the Bourgogne and the
Nord. In the Rue Bossuet, the Genève. Dijon is famous for mustard,
gingerbread, and the liqueur Cassis.
Cabs, 1 fr. 75 c. the first hour, and 1 fr. 50 c. every succeeding hour.
Coaches daily to Ancey, Fleury-sur-Ouche, La Cude, Cissey, and St.
Seine. The St. Seine dil. starts daily from the inn, Hôtel du Commerce,
82 Rue Godrans, and takes about 3½ hours. From St. Seine an excellent
road leads to the source of the Seine, 5 m. distant. (See page 19.)
[Headnote: SALLE DES GARDES. MUSEUMS.]
The most interesting buildings in Dijon are near the palace, which was
inhabited by Jean Sans Peur, Philippe le Bon, and Charles le Temeraire;
but of that ancient building there remain only the Tour de Brancion, the
Salle des Gardes, the kitchens and vaulted rooms on the ground-floor,
and the Tour de la Terrasse, 152 feet high, ascended by 323 steps, and
commanding a bird’s-eye view of the whole town. The rest is modern, and
is occupied by the Hôtel de Ville, the Post Office, the École des Beaux
Arts, the Museums, and the Protestant church. The museum is on the right
side of the great court, and is open to the public on Sundays. Other
days a fee of 1 fr. is expected. In the +Salle des Gardes+ are the
magnificent mausoleums of Philippe le Hardi, 1342-1404, and of his son
Jean Sans Peur, 1371-1419, with his consort Margaret of Bavaria. Of the
two, the first is the more elaborate. It is in pure black and white
marble, set round with a delicate frieze, and adorned with forty
statuettes representing his most famous contemporaries. Among the
articles which belonged to them in this room are three
beautifully-carved folding altar-screens for private chapel service;
and, under a glass case, the ducal crown, the cup of St. Bernard, and
the crozier of St. Robert, first abbot of the Cistercian order, died
1098. The chimney-piece in this hall is 30 feet high and 20 wide. Two
statues of mail-clad knights stand on it, apparently a yard high each,
but in reality 6 feet 2 inches. The picture-gallery contains a few
choice paintings, and some good statuary. No. 402, St. Jerome, is
considered one of the best. Down stairs is the Musée Archéologique, and
the kitchen, nearly 50 feet square, and provided with 6 chimneys.
Fronting the Palais is the Place d’Armes, with its shops and houses
arranged in a kind of horse-shoe curve. Behind the palace runs the Rue
des Forges. Nos. 34 and 36 is the Maison Richard, formerly the residence
of the British Embassy to the Court of Burgundy. At the top of the
spiral staircase is the “Homme au panier,” a statue 4 feet 6 inches in
height, on a pedestal at the topmost step, representing a manciple or
serving-man bearing a basket on his right shoulder, out of which spring,
like so many stems of wheat, nearly a score of vaulting ribs for the
roof that closes in the staircase. No. 38, the Maison Milsand has a fine
Renaissance façade, also some sculpture in the court. On No. 52 and 54
of this same street is exhibited a reproduction of that kind of double
arch seen in the Hotel de Ville. [Headnote: NOTRE DAME.] Close to the
Rue des Forges is +Notre Dame+, consecrated in 1331, a very beautiful
and interesting specimen of Burgundian architecture. At the east end is
the house Vogue, in the Renaissance style, and farther east, in the Rue
Chaudronnière, the Maison des Cariatides. A short distance from the
front of the Hotel de Ville is the Palais de Justice, formerly the
palace of the Parliament of Burgundy. The ceiling of the Cour d’Assises
is of massive carved chestnut, 17th cent. The crucifixion in the same
room is by Belle. At the end of the Salle des Pas Perdus is the pretty
little chapel which belonged to the parliament house. Near the theatre
is St. Etienne, founded in the 10th cent., and partly rebuilt in the
18th, but now the corn-market. At the end of this same street,
R. Vaillan, is St. Michel, rebuilt in the 16th cent., with a few curious
frescoes. Standing at the Arc de Triomphe, looking down the Rue
Guillaume, we have, towards the left, the chateau built by Louis XI. in
1478, or rather what remains of it, converted into the Gendarmerie; and
a little to the N.E. by a wide Boulevard, the Place and statue of St.
Bernard, who was born (1091) at Fontaine Lez-Dijon, in the chateau
beside the curious little church, 2 miles N.W. by the road of that name.
[Headnote: ST. BENIGNE. ST. JEAN. BOSSUET.] Towards the right is St.
Benigne, easily recognised by its slightly twisted needle spire, built
in 1742, 300 feet high, and a little inclined by the tempest of 1805.
The crypt and the porch belong to the 11th cent., the remainder to the
13th. In the south aisle is the slab tomb of Ladislaus Czartoryski
(1388), and adjoining the beautiful mausoleum of Joannes Berbisey. In
the N. aisle, in the baptistery chapel, are deposited the remains of
Jean sans Peur. Near St. Benigne is St. Philibert, 12th cent., with a
narthex and a beautiful crocketed spire. It is now used as an artillery
store. From this the narrow street, Rue des Novices, leads to St. Jean,
founded, as the tablet in the church states, in the 2d cent., rebuilt in
1458, and restored in 1866. The vault of the roof is bold, the tracery
of the windows nearly rectilinear, and the mural paintings not without
merit. Bossuet was baptised in this church, and born in No. 10 of this
“Place,” 27th September 1627. Among the writings of this eloquent and
illustrious prelate the finest is the funeral oration on the death of
Henrietta Anne, the daughter of our Charles I., and wife of the Duke of
Orleans. Southwards is St. Anne, 1690. [Headnote: ASILE DES ALIÉNÉS.] At
the Octroi gate, beside the railway, is the entrance into the +Asile des
Aliénés+, formerly the Chartreuse, founded by Philippe le Hardi in 1379.
Fee, 1 fr. On the portal (14th cent.) of the chapel are the kneeling
effigies of Philippe and his spouse Marguerite, accompanied by Sts.
Antoine and Catherine, whose figures are portrayed in the beautiful
glass (15th cent.) of the chancel windows. The visitor is next taken to
the well called Le Puits de Moise, 22½ feet in diameter, consisting of a
hexagonal pedestal, having on each side a statue of one of the prophets,
by Claux Sluter in the 14th cent., the sculptor of the ducal monuments
in the Palais des Etats. The statue of Moses is the least successful,
and that of Zachariah the most expressive. The house contains on an
average 500 patients. Dijon is not a town for sightseers, but an
admirable town for resting during a long journey. The Cloche and Jura
are comfortable houses, and although La Galêre is less so, its charges
are more moderate, while its fare is better. There are a number of
pleasant walks. Just beyond the arch is the Promenade du Chateau d’eau,
and at the foot of the railway station the Botanic Gardens. Towards the
extremity of the gardens is a black poplar 490 years old. The southern
continuation of the Place de St. Etienne leads by the Rue Chabot Charny,
the Place St. Pierre, and the Cours du Pari (1465 yards long), to the
public park. From Dijon the rail runs southwards parallel to the slopes
of the famous wine producing hills of the Côte d’Or, extending from N.E.
to S.W., and attaining an elevation of 324 feet. Behind them rises
another range, reaching the height of 1315 feet, and sheltering the
lower range from the cold winds. Between Dijon and Meursault grow the
first-class Burgundy wines; while south from Meursault follow the Macon
wines. First-class Burgundy is at its best after having been ten years
in bottle. The inferior classes can hardly stand three years.
[Headnote: GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN.]
{203}{334}
+GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN+, 1¼ mile from station, pop. 2000. Famous for their
first-class growths, of which the best are the red and white Chambertin.
Bèze, St. Jacques, Mazy, and Vèroilles, in the commune of Gevrey,
produce also first-class Burgundies.
{206¼}{330¾}
+VOUGEOT+, on the Vouge, pop. 500, ¾-mile from station. _Inn:_ Groffier.
Here there are above 125 acres of vineyards producing first-class
Burgundies. Among the most distinguished are the Romanée St. Vivant,
Romanée Conti, Richebourg, and La Tache.
{209½}{327½}
+NUITS+, pop. 4000. _Inn:_ Trois Maures. Omnibus awaits passengers. The
best vineyard here is the St. George, which produces a wine of an
exquisite flavour and a delicate and delicious bouquet. The church, St.
Symphorien, belongs to the 13th cent., and St. Denis to the 14th.
8 miles from Nuits is the abbey of Citeaux, now used as a house of
detention for youthful criminals, who are trained here to be
agricultural labourers. This abbey, founded by Robert de Molesme in
1098, had at one time 3600 dependent convents of the Cistercian order,
and from it went forth four of its abbots, to assume the keys of St.
Peter. The greater part of the buildings was rebuilt in 1798.
[Headnote: BEAUNE.]
{219}{318}
+BEAUNE+, pop. 12,000. _Hotels:_ Chevreuil; France. On the stream
Buzoise. This town is the headquarters of the merchants who deal in
Burgundy wines, as Bordeaux is that of the claret merchants. Around it
are the first-class vineyards of Beaune Pommard, Volnay, and Romanée. Of
these the Volnay vineyards, extending over 532 acres, produce the most
valuable wine, under the names of Bouche d’Or and Caillerets, and the
Pommard under that of Commarine. The town is of poor appearance. The
principal church, Notre Dame, founded in the 12th cent., contains
semicircular and equilateral-triangled arches and cusped and Corinthian
capitals.
In the Place Monge, off the street de l’Ile, is a bronze statue to
Gaspard Monge, the inventor of descriptive geometry, born at Beaune in
1746. To him France is indebted for the establishment of the Polytechnic
School. Contiguous to the Chevreuil Inn is the hospital, built in the
15th cent.--a curious and interesting building. The Salle de Conseil
upstairs is hung with Aubusson tapestry, and contains also a painting of
the Last Judgment by Roger van der Weyden. Near Beaune is Savigny, with
a château built in 1672; in the neighbourhood are the Fontaine Froide,
the ruins of the abbey of St. Marguerite, and the Roche Percée.
[Headnote: MEURSAULT.]
{223½}{313½}
+MEURSAULT+, pop. 3000, 1½ m. from the station. Omnibus awaits
passengers for the Inn. The most distinguished wines produced here are
the Goutte d’Or, a golden-coloured wine, and the Perrières, a dry white
wine of a slightly sulphureous taste. In the neighbourhood is Puligny,
where the delicious sparkling white wine called Montrachet is grown.
{228}{309}
+CHAGNY+, pop. 4200. _Inn:_ Commerce. Junction with line to Nevers
102 m. W., passing Nolay 5 m. W., Autun 26 m. W., Montchanin 18 m. W.,
and Le Creusot 22 m. W. (see page 25, and map page 1). From Chagny
southwards commence the Macon wines, of which the vineyards around
Chagny produce a first-class quality.
Nolay, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc, La St. Marie. The vineyards in
this neighbourhood produce a good white Macon. A few miles distant is
the Vallon de Vaux-Chignon, below cliffs 200 ft. high. In a deep
fissure is the source of the Cusane. 3¼ m. E. are the ruins of the
castle Rochepot, 15th cent. In the church of the village is a
remarkable echo. 8 m. beyond is Epinac, pop. 5000, with coal
mines.
[Headnote: AUTUN.]
26 m. W. from Chagny is +Autun+, pop. 13,000. _Hotels:_ Poste; Cloche.
This modernised little town, the ancient Bibracte, claims with Trèves
the honour of having been built before the Roman invasion. Cæsar spent
a winter in this city with two Roman legions; and at a later period,
when the Emperor Augustus went to Gaul, he made Bibracte his
headquarters, and erected so many magnificent public buildings that
the name of the town was changed to Augustodonum, modernised into
Autun. Napoleon III., in his “History of Cæsar,” considers, however,
that the site of Bibracte was on the summit of Mount Beauvray, 14
miles westwards, where coins of Gaul, mosaic pavements, fragments of
pottery, and an enormous number of amphoræ, have been discovered. The
walls of Autun were 10,000 feet in circumference and 8 feet thick, and
were garnished with 40 towers, and pierced with four large gates, of
which two--the Porte d’Arroux, 55 feet high, and the Porte St. André,
lately restored--still remain. The Porte d’Arroux and the temple of
Janus (a plain square tower) are behind the railway station. But the
Porte St. André, adjoining an ancient church, is on the town side of
the line at the Faubourg St. Jean. The +Cathedral+, which commands the
entire city, was completed in 1178. The architecture of the modern
portions is Gothic, but the more ancient is Romanesque. The two towers
have been restored and adorned with Gothic spires. The interior
contains several windows of painted glass. The entrance is by a
handsome open portico with sculptured arches and columns. From the
Porte St. Blaise (straight up from the cathedral) a cross road leads
to the Pierre Couchard (Coarre), a pyramidal monument of great
antiquity.
In the College is the Public Library, with 12,000 volumes; and the
Picture Gallery, containing paintings by Horace Vernet. In 1789
Talleyrand, afterwards Prince Talleyrand, was Bishop of Antun.
[Headnote: MONTCHANIN.]
73 m. E. from Moulins, 86 m. E. from Nevers, 18 m. W. from Chagny, is
+Montchanin+, pop. 2500. _Inn:_ H. des Minis; its omnibus awaits
passengers. The town, nearly a mile from the station, consists chiefly
of the houses of the workmen employed in the surrounding coalpits,
foundries, and large artistic brick and tile works. Outside the town
is the Étang Berthaud, the reservoir of the Canal du Centre, which
connects the Saône with the Loire, between Chalon and Digoin.
[Headnote: LE CREUSOT.]
78¼ m. E. from Nevers, 7¾ m. W. from Montchanin, and 26 m. W. from
Chagny, is +Le Creusot+, pop. 25,000, of whom 6300 are employed in
the ironworks. _Hotels:_ Commerce; Rodrigue, near each other in the
principal street, the Rue d’Autun. Their coaches await passengers.
Le Creusot is on the southern slope of one of the wooded hills which
enclose this valley, 1¼ mile long and ½ mile wide, occupied by the
coal-pits, forges, and foundries of Schneider et Cie, bought by them
from the former owners, Manby, Wilson, and Co. Detached straggling
suburbs occupy the other slopes of the hills. In all the general
feature is the same, rather untidy streets and houses, with parks,
shops, and cafes to suit. The streets are full of children, but few
priests, policemen, and beggars. In the principal square, near the two
hotels, is a statue by H. Chapu of Eugene Schneider, erected in 1878
by the workmen and inhabitants. The view of the works from the road is
imposing, and, although they contain a forest of chimneys and all
manner of powerful machinery, there is no noise.
West from Le Creusot, and 65¼ m. E. from Nevers, is +Etang+, with an
ancient castle. 51½ m. E. from Nevers is Luzy, pop. 3000, on the
Alène. _Inn:_ H. Delaigue, close to station. Coach 12 m. to St.
Honoré-Les-Bains, with alkaline sulphureous springs, 90° Fahr. 33 m.
E. from Nevers is Cercy-la-Tour, on the Aron, 53 m. south from Clamecy
by the rail, skirting the Canal Nivernais. _Inn:_ H. de la Croix,
close to station. 23½ m. E. from Nevers is Decize, pop. 4800. _Inns:_
Paris; Commerce. Omnibus awaits passengers. Situated on an island in
the Loire, at its junction with the Aron and the Canal Nivernais,
which commences here and flows into the Yonne at Auxerre. The parish
church has a choir of the 11th, nave of the 16th, and crypt of the
10th cent., containing the tomb of St. Aré. Foundries, glass bottle
works, and coal-mines. Coach from Decize to La Machine 80 minutes.
[Headnote: CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{235}{302}
+CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE+, pop. 21,000. _Hotels:_ at the station, Hôtel
Bourgogne; in the town, Chevreuil; Commerce; Trois Faissans. Steamer to
Macon and Lyons. Chalon is a quiet town situated on an extensive plain
on the Saône, at the mouth of the Canal du Centre, both lined with good
quays. The chief structures are--St. Vincent, a Gothic edifice of the
latter part of the 13th cent., occupying the site of a church founded in
532; St. Peter, 1713, with two lofty steeples; and the hospitals of St.
Laurent and St. Louis. Chalon has two stations--one in the town, and
another at St. Come, where the express trains halt. 2 miles from Chalon
is St. Marcel, where Abélard died 1142. The church still remains, but
the monastery has disappeared. A few miles west by coach is Givry, pop.
3200, with first-class vineyards. Rail to
{243}{294}
+VARENNES.+ South from this station the train passes before the abbey of
St. Ambreuil.
{254}{283}
+TOURNUS+, on the Saône, pop. 6200. _Inn:_ Hôtel Sauvage, not clean. An
untidy town on the Saône, with remains of Roman fortifications. In the
Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is a marble statue of Greuze, erected by the
citizens in 1868. Jean Baptiste Greuze, some of whose works are among
the finest paintings of the French school in the Louvre, was born here
on August 21, 1725. The parish church, St. Philibert, is an interesting
Gothic monument, of which the earliest portions belong to the 9th and
the latest to the 16th cent. The interior is ornamented with mosaics.
The Hôtel Dieu was founded in 1674, the Hospice de la Charité in 1718,
and the Hôtel de Ville more recently. The vineyards of Tournus produce
good wines.
[Map:
The Rhone & Savoy with the passes from France into Italy.]
[Headnote: MACON.]
{274}{263}
+MACON+, pop. 20,000. At station, large refreshment-rooms. Junction with
line to Bourg, 41 m. E. _Hotels._--Near the station, H. Étrangers. In
town the Europe, on the Quai du Nord, near the landing-place from the
steamers, which sail daily up and down the Saône, between Chalons,
Macon, and Lyons. In the centre of the town are the hotels Champs
Elysées and Sauvage. Macon is the great depôt of the Macon wines, an
inferior Burgundy. The finest part of the town extends along the quays
which line the right side of the Saône, crossed by a stone bridge of 12
arches, uniting Macon with its suburb Saint Laurent on the left side of
the river. The oldest edifice is the +Cathedral+ of St. Vincent, built
in the 12th cent. The arches are stilted, the columns Romanesque, and
the porch arcaded. Next to it is the Préfecture, formerly the Episcopal
palace. In this neighbourhood, at No. 21 Rue des Ursulines, is the house
where Lamartine was born. On a black marble slab over the door are the
words:--Ici est né Alphonse-Marie-Louis De Lamartine, le 21 Octobre
1790.
In the Rue Dombey is an old timber house, and towards the station, the
beautiful church of St. Pierre, built in 1865, in the Romanesque style,
and decorated with frescoes. Opposite is the Hôtel de Ville.
From Macon a branch line extends 48 miles westward to Paray-le-Monial,
passing Cluny, 15 miles from Macon. From Macon a line extends to Geneva
74 m. E., by Bourg 13½ m. E., Nantua and Bellegards 39¾ m. E. (See
Black’s _France_, North Half, and map page 1.)
[Headnote: CLUNY.]
+Cluny+, pop. 5000. In the valley of the Grosne. _Hotels:_ Bourgogne;
Pavilions--both near each other. This is the place where
Guillaume-le-Pieux founded in the 10th cent, the famous abbey of
Cluny. The abbey buildings are now used as a school. Of the abbey
church an insignificant portion alone remains, and of it the most
interesting part is the spire. In the Chapelle des Bourbons (15th
cent.) are enormous corbels under the empty niches. About 300 yards
distant is the Maison Abbatiale, 15th cent., with flattened
elliptical-headed windows and ogee arches over the doors. At the
entrance is a collection of columns, capitals, etc., from the first
church founded in the 10th cent. Upstairs there is a small museum;
entrance, ½-franc each.
[Headnote: PARAY-LE-MONIAL.]
41½ m. E. from Moulins and 33 m. from Montchanin is Paray-le-Monial,
pop. 3700, on the Bourbince. _Inns:_ The Poste, the best; across the
bridge, the Lion d’Or; at the head of the principal street, near the
Palais de Justice, the Trois Pigeons and the Commerce; opposite the
Chapelle de la Visitation, the Inn H. des Pelerins. The Palais de
Justice, with the clock tower, occupies the remains of an edifice
built in the 16th cent., to which date belongs also the house close to
it, occupied by the Mairie and the Post Office.
A little way down the Bourbince is the formerly abbey, now the parish
church, founded in the llth cent., but nearly rebuilt in the 12th
cent. Over the façade rise two elegant square towers with pyramidal
roofs, llth cent.; while from the centre of the transepts rises an
octagonal tower in 2 stages, surmounted by a tapering 8-sided slated
spire. From the apse radiate chapels adorned with dental friezes and
short attached columns.
From this church, the narrow street, the Rue de la Visitation, leads
up to the nunnery of the Visitation, an order instituted in 1620, and
established in Paray on the 4th September 1626 by 8 nuns from the
monastery of Bellecour at Lyons. In 1633 they commenced to build their
chapel, which was repaired in 1823, and restored and beautified in
1854. To this chapel the order attach great importance, as it was in
this building that Marguerite-Marie Alacoque had most of her
interviews with J. C. In the interior the walls and roof are painted
light brown, with frescoes and marguerites or daisies, but so hung
with banners and votive offerings, chiefly hearts, that little of them
is seen. The first picture, right hand, represents J. C. and 3 angels
before Marguerite. The 2d, J. C., with flowing yellow hair and dressed
in white, stoops to touch with his heart (which is very red and
outside his garment) the head of the kneeling Marguerite, who holds
her hands up near to her neck. The 3d is a full-length portrait of
her. To the left of entrance the pictures are--1st, a Vision; 2d,
Mary, sitting on a cloud, has put the child Jesus into the arms of
Marguerite; 3d, life-size statues of J. C. and Marguerite. The picture
over the high altar represents the interview in this place, when J. C.
is said to have declared to Margaret: “I have chosen and sanctified
this chapel, that my eyes and my heart may remain here for ever.” On
the 2d July 1688 Mary, in great pomp and majesty, accompanied by
numerous angels, appeared to Marguerite, and told her that the orders
of the “Visitation” and of “Jesus” (the Jesuits) were to have the
special charge of the worship of the sacred heart. For this worship
there is a regular litany, containing 31 invocations to the heart of
J. C. In many of the Romanist churches is a picture representing one
of the above incidents.
The bones of Marguerite, covered with flesh-like wax, and attired in
the habit of the order, recline on a silver embroidered cloth in a
coffin-like shrine of richly-gilt, tiny glazed arches set with
rock-crystal. The face and hands are uncovered. The body is 5 ft.
long. On her feast day the shrine is placed beside the Communion rail;
at other times it is kept within the very beautiful altar-table, made
of one piece of pure white marble. Marguerite-Marie Alacoque was born
22d July 1647, in the village of Versovres, near Autun, entered the
convent of the Visitation in Paray on the 25th May 1671, and took the
vows on the 6th November 1672. On the day when J. C. told her she had
been chosen by him to propagate the worship of his heart, she was
seized with a pain in her own heart, which continued throughout her
life. She met at first with great opposition in her endeavours to
institute the worship of the heart, and her sister nuns treated her as
a visionary till 1675, when the R. P. de la Colombière, superior of
the Jesuit establishment at Paray, became her convert. In her last
illness she said: “I shall die in peace, because the heart of my
Saviour commences to be known.” She died in October 1690, and was
canonised by Pio IX. on the 14th October 1864. Since the institution
of N. D. de Lourdes and de la Salette the number of pilgrims has
decreased. In Paray there are 3 nunneries and a vast building
belonging to the Jesuits.
From Macon the railway continues its course by the side of the Saône,
whose banks become now more picturesque. From Macon use map on page
26.
[Headnote: ROMANECHE.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{283}{254}
+ROMANECHE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Commerce. Produces a delicate light wine,
with a pleasant flavour and bouquet, called Moulin-a-Vent, which should
be drunk in the second year from the vintage.
[Headnote: BELLEVILLE.]
{288½}{248½}
+BELLEVILLE+, pop. 4000. The first part of the town is St. Jean, and the
next Belleville, 1¼ m. from the station, with a comfortable little inn,
the H. Jambon. Omnibus at station. The church, 12th cent., has small
round-headed and pointed windows, with some good glass, especially in
those of the square towers at the end of the transept, and the small
circular window over the west portal. This is the headquarters of the
Beaujolais wines. From Belleville a branch line extends 10 m. W. to
Beaujeu, pop. 4000, on the Ardière. Church, 13th cent., and some curious
houses. (Map, page 26.)
{297}{240}
+VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-SAÔNE+, pop. 12,600, on the river Morgan, near the
Saône. _Hotels:_ Provence; Europe. Containing important linen
manufactories, and vineyards producing a good white wine. The parish
church, N. D. des Marais, was commenced in the 14th cent. 5½ m. S. is
Trévoux station, 1½ m. from the town, pop. 3000, on the E. bank of the
Saône. _Inns:_ Terrasse; France. The Jesuits compiled and printed in
this town the _Journal de Trévoux_ in 1701, and the _Dictionnaire de
Trévoux_ in 1704.
{306}{231}
+ST. GERMAIN AU-MONT-D’OR+, junction with line from Paris to Lyons, by
Roanne and Tarare.
[Headnote: LYONS.]
{318}{219}
+LYONS+, pop. 343,000. The Perrache railway station is 218 m. from
Paris, 219 m. from Marseilles, 78 m. from Aix-les-Bains, 36½ m. from
Bourg, 104 m. from Geneva, 36 m. from St. Etienne, 56 m. from Roanne,
100 from Vichy, and 214 m. from Turin.
_Hotels (first-class)._--H. de l’Europe, admirably situated, with one
side to the Saône and the Tilsit bridge, and the other to the Place
Bellecour, the terminus of some of the best trams. In the Rue de la
République are the H. Collet and the H. de Lyon. H. Bellecour in the
Place Bellecour. H. des Beaux Arts in the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, also
well situated. In the Place Perrache, below the station, are the hotels
Univers, Angleterre, Bordeaux et du Parc.
_Less expensive Hotels._--The H. du Globe; and the Havre et du
Luxemburg--both near the Place Bellecour. Near the Place des Terreaux in
the R. Platière, the H. de Paris et du Nord. Near the Bourse, the H. des
Négociants, a large house frequented chiefly by commercial men. Near the
Négociants, at No. 47 Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, the H. Bayard. Hôtel des
Étrangers, Place de la République. Hôtel de Toulouse et de Strasbourg,
8 frs., in the Place Perrache, opposite the station. Hôtel National,
opposite the theatre. On the Quai do la Charité, near the General
Hospital, the H. Bourne. A great many diligences start from this
neighbourhood. Hôtel de France et des 4 Nations, 9 Rue St. Catherine,
close to the Place des Terreaux, one of the cheapest. Among the best
cafés are the Café Anglais, opposite the Bourse; Casati, No. 8; Café
Neuf, No. 7; and Maderni, No. 19 R. de la République; Café du Rhône,
Place Bellecour. They have English newspapers. In Lyons the term
Comptoir is applied to bars where wines, cordials, and brandies are
sold.
_Post Office._--Head Post Office in the Place de la Charité, at the
south end of the Place Bellecour. Branch Post Offices in the arcade of
the Place des Terreaux and 39 Cours Morand.
_Telegraph._--Head office, No. 53 Place de la République. Branch
offices--Perrache station, St. Paul station, and No. 38 Cours Morand.
[Headnote: RAILWAY STATIONS. CAB FARES.]
_Railway Stations._--The great and central station is the +Gare de
Perrache+, in the centre of the tongue of land between the Rhône and the
Saône. From it passengers can reach any place, excepting those on the
railway to Bourg. The +Bourg or Satonay+ railway station is at the top
of the Rue Terme, a street commencing near the N.E. corner of the Place
des Terreaux. From the Rue Terme the train is pulled up the hill by a
rope in the same way as at Fourvière. The gradient is 16 per 100, and
the distance 547 yards. At the top station, in the Boulevard de la Croix
Rousse, passengers for Bourg enter the ordinary railway carriages. The
rope railway runs every 5 minutes, fare 1d., and forms a convenient way
of escaping from the damp foggy atmosphere of Lyons. The Dombes or +St.
Paul’s+ railway station is for Montbrison, 40 m. S.W. The Vaise and
Brotteaux stations are auxiliaries of the Perrache station. The
Brotteaux station, situated on the confines of the Parc de la Tête d’Or,
is the terminus of the best of the trams.
CAB FARES
+-------------------------+-----------------------+----------------+
| | DE 7 H. DU MATIN | DE MINUIT |
| | a Minuit. | a 7 H. du Mat. |
| KIND OF CAB. +-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
| | La |La 1re.| Les H.| La | |
| |course.|heure. | suiv. |course.|l’heure.|
+-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
|A 2 places (coupés) | 1 25 | 1 50 | 1 25 | 1 65 | 2 50 |
|A 4 places (berlines) | 1 50 | 2 | 1 50 | 2 | 3 |
|Voitures découvertes | | | | | |
| à 2 places| 1 75 | 2 | 1 75 | 2 15 | 3 |
| à 4 places| 2 | 2 50 | 2 | 2 50 | 3 50 |
+-------------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
The “coupés” are cabs with a seat for two. The “berlines” are cabs with
2 seats for four. Each portmanteau 25 c. At the railway stations the
omnibuses from the hotels await passengers.
[Map: Lyons]
[Headnote: TRAMWAYS. THEATRES. STEAMERS.]
_Tramways._--The fares are moderate, and most of the cars comfortable.
The best to take to see the principal parts of the town is the large
roomy car running between the Perrache railway station and the Brotteaux
railway station, passing through the P. Perrache, P. Henri IV., Rue
Bourbon, P. Bellecour, R. and P. de la République between the Hôtel de
Ville and the Grand Theatre, across the bridge Morand, and up the Cour
Morand to the terminus at the Brotteaux railway station. At the
Brotteaux terminus the road by the side of the fort “des Charpennes”
leads in 5 minutes into the Parc de la Tête d’Or (see page 40), which
having visited, return either by the same car, starting every 10
minutes, or by the other, whose terminus is in the Quai de la Charité.
The outside of the cars, taken also by ladies, costs 3 sous; inside, 4.
The two most important places to visit on the return journey are the
Palais des Arts (page 35), and the silk museum in the Bourse (page 38).
Tram between the Place de la Charité and Oullins every 15 minutes; fare
outside, 3 sous. To visit the meeting-place of the two rivers, come out
at the bridge before crossing the Saône. Oullins, 3¼ m. from Lyons, pop.
4000, is approached also by rail from Lyons.
_Theatres._--The +Grand Théâtre+, between the Hôtel de Ville and the
Rhône. Boxes and front stalls, 6 frs. The +Théâtre des Célestins+,
between the Rue St. Dominique and the Saône. Boxes, 6 frs.; stalls,
4 frs. +Théâtre Bellecour+, No. 85 Rue de la République, quite a new
theatre, with all the modern comforts and appliances, and seated for
3000. The prices vary according to the subject. For an opera the stalls
cost 7 frs. each; for a play, 4 frs. There are also the Théâtre des
Variétés, Cours de Morand; Théâtre du Gymnase, 30 Quai St. Antoine; and
the Théâtre de l’Elysée, 3 Place de la Victoire.
_Steamers on the Saône_ (Les Guèpes).--Sail between the Quai St. Antoine
(to the north of the Bourse) and Collonges, calling at the Ile Barbe. In
summer 5 departures daily.
Les Mouches, or penny boats, sail from the quay near the Place Perrache,
by the side of the Pont du Midi, to the Pont du Port Mouton on the Quai
de Vaise, calling on the way at numerous stations. From the Pont du Port
another set of penny boats ascend to St. Rambert, calling likewise at
numerous stations on the way. Opposite St. Rambert is Cuire, and between
them in the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe.
The large steamers Parisiens sail in summer between the Quai St. Claire
on the +Rhône and Aix-les-Bains+ on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.
Fare, 9 frs. Another line sails between Lyons and Avignon, calling at
the principal towns on the way, but chiefly for the landing and shipping
of cargo.
[Headnote: SIGHTS.]
_Sights._--Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière (see below). Drive in tram car,
outside if possible, between the Place Perrache and the Brotteaux
railway station, page 31. The Parc de la Tête d’Or, page 40. The
galleries in the Palais des Arts, page 35. The museum of silk
manufacture, page 38.
Lyons is a strongly-fortified city, intersected by two of the largest
rivers in France, the Rhône and the Saône, which form as they approach
each other the isthmus, 545 ft. above the sea, on which the finest part
of the city is built. This portion is traversed by three great streets,
the Rue de la République, the R. de l’Hôtel de Ville, and the
R. Centrale, and contains the three most important and beautiful
squares, the Places Perrache, Bellecour, and Des Terreaux. The Place
Perrache, in front of the station, was planted with trees in 1851. In
the centre was a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Nieuwerkerke, which was
taken down in 1870 and afterwards destroyed by order of the
municipality. In its place is a fountain. The Place Bellecour
(Bella-Curia), 339 yards long and 328 yards wide, is also planted with
trees. In the centre is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV. by Lemot,
which occupies the place of a former one by Desjardins, destroyed in
1793. Trams to all the important parts of the city run through these two
squares. The Place des Terreaux, flooded with human blood in 1794,
during the reign of terror, has on the south side the Palais des Arts,
on the east the Hôtel de Ville, and on the west a block of buildings
pierced by an arcade decorated by P. Delorme and Maupin (see page 37).
The Rhône is crossed by 9 bridges, and the Saône by 13. The extent of
substantial and spacious quays on both sides of these rivers measures 24
miles. For sailing on the Rhône the best steamers are the Bateaux
Parisiens, starting from the quay in front of the Place Tholozan behind
the Hôtel de Ville, and plying between Lyons and Avignon. For short
sails on the Saône the Bateaux Mouches are very convenient, page 31.
[Map: Lyons]
[Headnote: NOTRE-DAME-DE-FOURVIÈRE. ROPE RAILWAY.]
The most prominent building in Lyons is the church of
+Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière+, standing on the site of the forum erected by
Trajan, the Forum Vetus or Foro Vetere; whence the term Fourvière is
supposed to be derived. It ought to be visited as early as possible,
even should there be no time for anything else, on account of the
excellent bird’s-eye view of the city obtained from it and its terraces.
At the west end of the bridge of +Tilsitt+ across the Saône, at the
upper side of the “Place,” is the rope railway, which ascends through
tunnels the hill of Fourvière, the length of the Place des Minimes about
¾ of the way up the hill. Fare, 5 sous. From the station walk up, right
hand, by the broad road, l’Antiquaille. At the highest part of this road
is a large ugly edifice, the Hôpital de l’Antiquaille, especially
devoted to the treatment of insanity and of cutaneous diseases. It has
accommodation for 600 patients, and occupies the site of the Roman
palace in which Claudius and Caligula were born. From in front of this
hospital commences a narrow steep road called the Montée de Fourvière,
lined nearly all the way with little shops stocked with wares for the
pilgrims and devotees, such as images, crucifixes, amulets, chaplets,
medals, photographs, and books. At the top are restaurants and hotels.
[Headnote: OBSERVATOIRE GAY. ST. PAUL.]
On the summit, 1206 feet above the sea and 410 feet above the Saône, is
the chapel of the “miraculous” image of Notre-Dame-de-Fourvière, from
which rises a domed tower crowned with a gilt image of Mary 6½ ft. high.
This tower is ascended by 200 steps, fee 25 c., and commands a superb
view of the city and environs. Lyons and its two great rivers are
immediately below, while in the distance, if the weather be clear, Mont
Blanc is distinctly seen. As for the sacred image itself, in the church
below, it is about the size of a big doll, and the child rather less.
The number of worshippers having become so great, the adjoining church,
which is more elegant and much more commodious, was constructed in 1884.
It stands on the very brow of the hill, and is the most prominent object
in Lyons. In shape it is rectangular, with at the eastern termination an
octagonal tower 115 ft. high, which forms the chancel. At each of the
four corners is a similar tower, and in each of the two sides are three
large windows separated by buttresses like square towers. Round the top
of the building as well as of the towers extends a balustrade of stiff
sculpture resembling acanthus leaves. The large buildings in the
neighbourhood are convents. A little eastward is the “Observatoire Gay,”
from which a steep path, the Montée des Carmes Déchaussées, 536 yards
long, descends to the city, reaching it by the side of the station of
the Chemin de Fer des Dombes (page 30). Near this station is the
church of St. Paul, all modern excepting the beautiful N. portal, the
handsome octagonal lantern resting on pendentive arches, a few of the
windows, and part of the walls which belonged to the original church of
the 11th cent. The old walls which remain in all the early churches of
Lyons are characterised by the enormous size of the stones of which they
are composed. Beyond is the bridge of St. Vincent.
[Headnote: ST. IRÉNÉE.]
The Terminus of the rope railway from the Pont Tilsit is at No. 42 Rue
Trion, higher and to the N.W. of Fourvière and within a very short
distance of the church of +St. Irénée+, on the summit of a hill in the
suburb of St. Just. On the terrace at the east end of St. Irénée are a
Via Crucis and Calvary, commanding a superb view of the plain watered by
the Rhône and the Saône. By the N. side of the church is the entrance
into the crypt. The first flight consists of 25 steps; and the second,
which terminates in the crypt, of eight. On the first arch across the
first flight an inscription states: “Cette crypte fut construite par St.
Patient evéque de Lyon au V siècle sur l’emplacement du lieu ou St.
Pothin et St. Irénée, envoyés a Lyon par Polycarpe disciple de l’apôtre
St. Jean, reunissaient les premiers chretiens. De nombreux martyrs y
furent ensevelis.” On the second arch another inscription states that in
1562 the Calvinists having injured the crypt and thrown the bones of
animals among those of the saints, Grolier, Prior of St. Irénée,
restored the building, separated the bones, and placed those of the
saints in that small vault to the right, at the foot of the first
flight. In the centre of the crypt is a now covered up well, the
original resting-place of the martyrs, down which their bodies were
thrown till it overflowed with blood, in the reign of Septimius Severus,
A.D. 202. To visit the calvary and crypt apply to the concierge, 50 c.
The church of St. Irénée has nothing particular. To the west, in the
parish of Ste. Foy, are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought
water to the city from Mont Pilat. It was 52 miles long, and capable of
supplying 11,000,000 gallons per day. At present the water-supply of
Lyons is obtained from the Rhône.
[Headnote: CATHEDRAL OF ST. JEAN.]
Opposite the commencement of the rope railway, and close to the Tilsit
bridge, is the +Cathedral+ of Saint Jean, founded in the 8th cent.,
repaired by Archbishop Leydrade, friend of Charlemagne, and
reconstructed almost entirely three centuries later. The chancel dates
from the end of the 12th cent., the lower part of the façade from the
13th, and the upper from the 14th cent. The exterior is chastely
decorated, but the four towers are too low. The interior, 259 ft. from
W. to E. and 108 ft. high, contains some brilliant 13th, 14th, and 15th
cent. glass. The wheel window at the west end resembles a fully-blown
flower. The clerestory windows are majestic and graceful. First, right
hand, is the chapel built by the Cardinal de Bourbon and his brother
Pierre, son-in-law of Louis XI. The two windows bearing their portraits,
and the curious wheel window at the end, are admirable. The soffits of
the arches and the vault of the roof are richly decorated. In the N.
transept is the now useless clock made by Nicholas Lippeus of Basel in
1508. The founder of the See of Lyons was St. Pothinus, an Asiatic
Greek, who preached in this city A.D. 177, and sealed his doctrines with
his blood. Adjoining the S. aisle is the Manécanterie, 11th cent.,
formerly the bishop’s place, now the music school for the choristers.
A little farther down the river is the church of St. George (rebuilt)
occupied in the 13th cent. by the +Knight Templars+. Above the cathedral
is the Palais de Justice, planned by Baltard, the architect of the large
market, the Halles Centrales of Paris. In front is a colonnade of 24
Corinthian columns. The hall is spacious and elegant, but the court
rooms around it are too small. The bridge higher up--the Pont de
Nemours--leads directly to the church of +Saint Nizier+, with the façade
towards the bridge and the chancel towards the Rue de l’Hôtel de Ville.
The handsome portal surmounted by twin spires is by Philibert Delorme,
a native of Lyons, and dates from the 16th cent. The rest of the
building belongs to the 15th cent. In the interior a broad triforium
with heavily-canopied window-openings surrounds the church. The vaulting
shafts expand in a curious way over the roof. In the chapel of the south
transept is a statue of Mary by Coysvox. At the foot of the pier in this
transept a trap-door opens into the crypt, 10th cent. At the south side
of the Palais des Arts is St. Pierre, a modern edifice, with a beautiful
portal of the 11th cent., all that remains of the original church.
[Headnote: PALAIS DES BEAUX-ARTS.]
On the south side of the Place des Terreaux is the +Palais des
Beaux-Arts+, built in 1667, formerly a convent of the Dames Bénédictines
de Saint-Pierre. It contains the picture galleries and the museums. Open
to the public on Sundays, Thursdays, and feast-days, from 11 to 4, and
to strangers daily.
[Headnote: MUSÉE LAPIDAIRE.]
Admirably arranged under a wide corridor round the great court are the
ancient marbles or +Musée Lapidaire+, one of the best in Europe. The
sepulchral inscriptions form a most interesting series of epitaphs, in
many instances most tender and affecting. Indeed, reading these records
of the love of kindred among the ancient heathen, from the Augustan age
upwards, one would incline to believe that the Romans of that day were
already “feeling after” Christianity. In the left corner of the court on
entering is the stair which leads up to the Archæological Museum and the
Picture Gallery, both on the first floor. Up on the second floor is the
collection of paintings by the “peintres lyonnais.”
[Headnote: MUSÉE ARCHÉOLOGIQUE.]
The Musée Archéologique is well arranged and carefully labelled. The
only object we would indicate, as it is apt to be overlooked, is the
bronze table, A.D. 48, in the second room left hand, with inscribed
portions of the harangue of Claudius before he became emperor, imploring
the senate to grant to Lyons, his native city, the title of a Roman
colony. The letters are beautifully cut and easily legible. This table
was discovered in 1528 on the heights of Saint Sébastien. Germanicus,
and the Emperors Claudius, Marcus Aurelius, and Caracalla, were also
born in Lyons. The father of St. Ambrose was for some time prefect of
Lyons. In the same room is a decree of the Egyptian pontiffs in
hieroglyphics. There is a good collection of seals, coins, enamels,
armour, carved work, and bronzes, as well as some necklaces, bracelets,
rings, and coins, part of a treasure buried during the Roman period on
the Fourvière heights, and discovered in 1811. The numismatic
collection, 30,000 pieces, includes a series of the coins struck at
Lyons from 43 B.C. to 1857. Adjoining and on the same floor is the
Picture Gallery, contained in six small rooms, of which the first three
contain the Flemish and Dutch schools, the next two the Italian and
Spanish schools, and the sixth the French school. They are all carefully
labelled. Among the pictures which represent the Flemish school are
works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Teniers, Van Dyck, Holbein, Stein, Dietrich,
Breughel, Wouvermans, and Ruysdael. The Italian and Spanish schools are
represented by Canaletto, Sasso Ferrati, Guercino, Zucharo, Murillo,
Ribera, Zurbaran, etc. On the floor of the fourth room is a remarkably
perfect mosaic pavement, 5½ yards by 3, representing chariot races in
the Circus. It was discovered near the church of Ainay.
[Headnote: GALERIE CHENAVARD.]
In the S.E. corner a handsome staircase leads up to the Galerie
Chenavard on the first floor, containing large cartoons drawn by him
illustrative of the scenes which accompanied the introduction of
Christianity into France. They were intended for the Pantheon of Paris,
but, the age of reason supervening, they were not sent. On the floors
are three beautiful mosaic pavements found at Lyons. In the room above
are the best pictures--J. F. Barbieri, 1590-1661; Bol, Breughel,
P. Caliari, 1530-1588; A. Carracci, 1557-1602; L. Carracci, 1555-1619;
P. Champaigne, Crayer, Greuze, 1721-1805; E. L. David, 1748-1825;
Desportes, 1661-1742; Cuyp, Van Dyck, Heem, 1604-1674; Jordaens,
Jouvenet, 1644-1717; Largillière, M. Mierveld, Murillo, 1618-1682; J.
Palma, 1544-1628; Pietro Perugino, 1446-1524; an Ascension of Christ,
considered the gem of the collection. This picture, originally in the
church of San Pietro at Perugia, was presented by Pope Pio VII. “in
attestato del suo affetto é della grata sua rimembranza per la citta di
Lione.” The lower part of the picture is by far the best, the figures in
the air are too massive, and the posture of J. C. is stiff. J. Ribera,
1584-1656; H. Rigaud, 1552-1745; Robusti, 1512-1594; Rubens, Ruysdael,
A. del Sarto, 1488-1530; Sasso Ferrati, 1605-1685; Schorreel, 1495-1565;
Sueur, 1617-1656; Sneyders, Teniers, Terburg, Zampieri, and Zurbaran.
The Palais des Arts contains also the Natural History Museum, the
+Mineralogical Collection+, in which are represented the characteristic
rocks and fossils of every department of France, and the copper ores
from the mine of Chessy, near Arbrèsle; and a library containing 40,000
engravings and drawings, and 650 volumes treating principally on the
arts and sciences. There are likewise 6 municipal libraries, open every
evening from 7 to 10, and the Bibliothèque de la Ville.
[Headnote: PLACE TERREAUX. HÔTEL DE VILLE.]
On the north side of the Place des Terreaux is the Hôtel de Ville, built
in 1665 by Maupin, at the cost of £320,000. The facade, flanked by domed
square pavilions, is 160 ft. wide, while the building itself is 1150 ft.
long. The back part, fronting the theatre, is the Préfecture. From the
centre rises the clock-tower, 157 ft. high. On the façade over the
entrance is an equestrian statue of Henri IV. in bold relief. Within the
vestibule, to the right and left, are colossal bronze groups, by the
brothers Coustou, representing the Rhône and the Saône. They stood
originally under the statue of Louis XIV. in the Place Bellecour.
In 1642 Cinq Mars and De Thou were executed, by order of Richelieu, in
the Place des Terreaux. In 1794 the revolutionary tribunal, sitting in
the Hôtel de Ville, guillotined so many people in this square that it
became so flooded with blood as to render it necessary to send the
executioners to Brotteaux, near the present railway station, to finish
this wholesale slaughter of Frenchmen by Frenchmen.
[Headnote: CONDITION DES SOIES.]
Behind the Hôtel de Ville, up the Rue de St. Polycarpe, house No. 7, is
the establishment of the +Condition des Soies+, where the bales of silk
brought to Lyons are sent to be dried. They are placed on an iron
grating, and subjected for twenty-four hours to a temperature of from
64° to 72° Fahr., and are weighed both before and after this operation.
The same is done to the wool. The sample drying room is in the first
story, left hand. Any one may visit it. A little higher up are St.
Polycarpe built in 1760, and St. Bruno built in 1688. At the opposite
end of the bridge of St. Clair is the English church.
[Headnote: BOURSE. LIBRARY.]
In the Rue de la République is the +Bourse+, a profusely ornamented
edifice inaugurated in 1860. At the south end is St. Bonaventure, built
in the 14th cent., and recently restored. At the north end is the Lycée
with the public library, containing the great terrestrial globe made at
Lyons in 1701, indicating the great African lakes, the rediscovery of
which has been one of the events of the present century. There are
160,000 volumes and 2500 manuscripts,--about 600 of the printed works
being incunabula, and 25 of the MSS. belonging to the Carlovingian
period.
[Headnote: SILK MUSEUM.]
In the second story of the Bourse is the museum of the +Art and
Manufacture+ of silk. Open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays
between 11 and 4. The great hall contains, in high glass cases,
specimens of silk, satin, velvet, crape, and lace, arranged according to
centuries from the 13th and 14th to the 19th. The 19th, which is by far
the richest and most beautiful, is in two cases, representing the first
and the latter half of the century. This collection is choice and highly
artistic, displaying miniature portraits, superb embroidery, and lovely
designs in charming colours, woven in the loom. At the entrance to the
hall is a portrait (about 13 in. by 10) of Jacquard, in a sitting
posture, woven in white and black silk, like those at St. Etienne. Also
the Will of Louis XVI. In the next room are looms and models of looms
from the time of Louis XI. The models are so perfect that each contains
part of a web woven in it. Among them is the model of the famous loom
made by Jacquard in 1804, by which a single workman was enabled to
produce elaborate fabrics as easily as the plainest web, and by merely
changing the “cartoons” to make the most different textures on the same
loom. Near the loom is the first sewing machine. The inventor was
B. Thimonier of Lyons in 1829, from which those now in use are improved
copies.
The cases round the inmost room are devoted to the natural history of
silk--displaying every variety of the silk butterfly, Bombyx mori, as
well as of the allied species; cocoons of every kind and in every
condition; eggs and caterpillars at every stage of their existence; and
hanks of raw silk from every part of the world where it is produced.
Adjoining is a room with drawings, many by the great masters.
Formerly Lyons manufactured only high-class silks, but the demand for
these having been for some years on the decrease, the manufacturers, to
hold their place in the market against especially their Créfeld rivals,
have had to turn their attention to cheaper stuffs. This in some measure
is owing to the rapid and violent changes of fashion, which makes a silk
dress good only for a few months, whereas formerly, with an occasional
alteration, it was worn for years.
In the street behind the east side of the Bourse are the large covered
markets; where many of the fishes of the Rhone may be seen alive in
tanks, and good Mont d’Or cheese be bought. It makes capital railway
travelling provision. (See page 42.)
[Headnote: CITY HOSPITAL AND WORKHOUSE.]
Farther down the street, with the principal facade to the Rhône, and the
other, containing the entrance, to the Rue de l’Hôpital, is the +Hôtel
Dieu+, or general hospital, with 1500 beds, founded in the 6th cent. by
Childebert and Ultrogotha his queen. The present building is principally
the work of Soufflet, the architect of the Pantheon in Paris. Of the
beds, about 1300 are free, the remainder pay from 1¼ fr. to 12 frs. per
day. The rooms are lofty and well ventilated. The principal female wards
are arranged in the form of a cross, with an altar in the centre under
the small dome, in such a position that all the patients can see it from
their beds. From the large dome extends the principal ward of the men,
containing 100 beds, and a smaller one on the other side. The sick are
tended by nuns. The hospital has a house on the heights of the
Croix-Rousse, near the terminus of the rope railway, and another at
Oullins for incurables.
In the first court left of the large court, Dr. Young buried Mrs.
Temple, the Narcissa of his _Night Thoughts_, who died in 1730 at
Montpellier, but was there refused burial. At that time what is now a
built-up court was a cemetery. Fifty years ago it was a garden, now it
is covered with buildings. All trace of the grave has disappeared.
Near the entrance to the hospital is the church, 18th cent., richly
decorated. In a chapel, left, is the enormous gilt shrine, in 5 stages,
of Sainte Valentine.
Farther down the Rhône is the Hospice de la Charité, founded in 1531, on
the occasion of a great famine. It receives the poor of both sexes who
have reached 70; sick children under 15, and young women about to be
mothers. The church was built in 1617.
[Headnote: ST. MARTIN D’AINAY.]
North from the hospice or workhouse, near the bridge of Ainay across the
Saône, is the church of +St. Martin d’Ainay+, which, with the monastery,
was founded by St. Badulph during the reign of Constantine, on the site
of a temple erected by the sixty nations of Gaul in honour of Cæsar
Augustus. The first church having been destroyed by the Saracens, in the
8th cent., it was rebuilt in 1070, and consecrated in 1106 by Pope
Pascal II. Since then it has been frequently repaired and altered. The
style belongs to what is called modern Greek, introduced into France
under Charlemagne. The cupola of the chancel rests on circular
pendentive arches springing from four granite columns which stood
formerly in the temple of Augustus. They were originally 2, but were cut
into 4. The fresco paintings in the apsidal chapels are by H. Flandrin,
a native of +Lyons+. To the right is the sacristy or chapel of Saint
Blandina, in which a short stair leads down to the crypt and the
dungeons, one on each side, where Pothinus, first bishop of Lyons, and
Blandina, a converted slave, were kept before being tortured and put to
death in A.D. 177, during the persecution under Marcus Antoninus, the
implacable enemy of Christianity. The crypt, about 12 ft. square, was,
as well as the dungeons, about 10 feet deeper, but on account of the
overflowing of the river the floors were filled up to their present
level.
[Headnote: PARC DE LA TÊTE-D’OR.]
The Parc de la Tête-d’Or, or park of Lyons, is situated at the N.E.
extremity of the city, between the Brotteaux railway station and the
left bank of the Rhône. It measures 282 acres, and contains, besides an
abundant supply of varied walks, a large and excellent botanic garden
with hothouses, a lake with islands inhabited by aquatic birds, and a
dairy farm, whose produce is sent every morning into town for sale.
Adjoining the park are the rifle-butts and the racecourse. In the
Boulevard du Nord is the Guimet Museum, containing a collection of
objects from the extreme east, to facilitate the study of the history,
religions, and customs of the inhabitants of that part of the world. The
institution publishes essays and translations.
By the western side of the Brotteaux railway station are the large
barracks of the Part-Dieu and the Fort des Brotteaux.
Lyons employs 70,000 looms and 140,000 weavers in the manufacture of
silk; and here, as at St. Etienne, the work is principally performed on
the domestic system in the dwellings of the master weavers, each of whom
has usually from two to six or eight looms, which, with their fittings,
are generally his own property. Himself and as many of his family as can
work are employed on these looms, aided frequently by one or more
_compagnons_, or journeymen, who inhabit chiefly the suburb of La Croix
Rousse, to the north of the town, and that of Fourvières, on the Saône.
The silk merchants supply the silk and patterns to the owners of looms,
who are entrusted with the task of producing the web in a finished
state. The mean annual value of the silk goods manufactured is estimated
at £15,000,000.
[Headnote: THE DYEING OF SILK--ORIGIN OF LYONS.]
The dyeing of the silk is also an important branch of manufacture. Many
experiments had been made to bring this art to perfection, and in
particular to discover a dye of perfect black that would retain its
colour. This a common dyer of Lyons at last invented, for which he
received a pension, besides being made a member of the Legion of Honour.
Prior to this the black dye which was used changed in a few days to a
brown, and came off the stuff when it was hard pressed by the hand.
Another improvement which was made consisted in procuring a silk of a
permanent white colour. The eggs of the worm which produced this silk
were brought from China, not, however, with the desired success. The
worm was afterwards purchased from a merchant of Alais, and distributed
in the southern departments of the country, where now a large number of
persons are engaged in silkworm hatcheries. The produce of white silk is
now very considerable and of great importance in the manufacture of
gauzes, crapes, and tulles. Extensive chemical works, breweries,
foundries, potteries, engineering works, printing establishments, and
hat factories represent the secondary industries of Lyons. A large trade
is carried on in chestnuts brought from the neighbouring departments,
and known as _marrons de Lyon_.
The earliest Gallic occupants of the territory at the confluence of the
Rhône and the Saône were the Segusians. In 590 B.C. some Greek refugees
from the banks of the Hérault, having obtained permission of the natives
to establish themselves on the Croix Rousse, called their new town by
the Gallic name Lugdunum; and in 43 B.C. Munatius Plancus brought a
Roman colony to Fourvières from Vienne. This settlement soon acquired
importance, and was made by Agrippa the starting-point of four great
roads. Augustus, besides building aqueducts, temples, and a theatre,
gave it a senate and made it the seat of an annual assembly of deputies
from the sixty cities of Gallia Comata. Under the emperors the colony of
Forum Vetus and the municipium of Lugdunum were united, receiving the
_jus senatus_. The town, burnt by Nero in 59 A.D., was rebuilt by him in
a much finer style, and adorned by Trajan, Adrian, and Antoninus.
[Headnote: MONT-D’OR. CHEESE.]
Among the most interesting, and at the same time easiest excursions from
Lyons is to Mont Ceindre, 4 m. from Lyons. Take the omnibus starting
from the Rue de la Platière to the village of St. Cyr-au-Mont-d’Or,
3¼ m., time 1½ hr., by a road always ascending. Fare, ½ fr. The omnibus
office at St. Cyr, the inn, and the café, are on a wide terrace
commanding an extensive view. The village, pop. 2000, is poor and dirty,
and built on the side of the hill. To ascend Mont Ceindre walk from the
omnibus office up to the new church, whence ascend by the telegraph
posts, and then turn to the right. The ascent and descent can be done
easily in 80 minutes, in time to go back to Lyons by the returning
coach. On the top of Mont Ceindre are some houses, an old hermitage, and
a chapel surmounted with a statue of Mary. The view is grand, embracing
the valleys of the Rhône and the Saône, the towns of Bugey and
Beaujolais, the mountains of the Forez, the Dauphiné, and the Alps. Mont
Ceindre, 1532 ft. above the sea; Mont Verdun, 2020 ft.; and Mont Houx,
2008 ft., form together +Mont-d’Or+, a group of mountains covered with
vineyards and meadows. The wine is thin, but the cheese is one of the
best and most celebrated in France. They are soft, round, and flat,
about 5 inches in diameter and half an inch thick, like round pancakes.
They are made from a mixture of cow and goat’s milk, and are said to
derive their peculiar flavour from the vine leaves on which the goats
feed during a considerable portion of the year. The cheeses of Mont Dore
(likewise famous) are thicker and smaller in diameter, and sold in small
boxes. The coach, on its way from Lyons to St. Cyr, passes by
Roche-Cardon, a favourite retreat of J. J. Rousseau. Another easy
excursion is to the Ile Barbe. Take any of the mouches (penny boats)
going up the Saône to Vaise station. Here change into the penny boat
going to St. Rambert, a rather dirty little town on the right bank,
1½ m. above Vaise. Opposite, and connected by a bridge, is the town of
Cuire. In the centre of the river is the Ile Barbe, across which the
bridge passes. On the island there are a few uninviting country-houses,
and the tower of a chapel (private property) of the 12th cent. The sail
is the best part of the excursion, not the island.
For Lyons to Nîmes, by rail 172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône,
see p. 81; Paris to Lyons by Roanne and St. Etienne, p. 346; Paris to
Lyons by Tarare, p. 348; Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand by St. Etienne,
Montbrison, and Thiers, see p. 349, and map p. 27.
[Headnote: VIENNE.]
{338}{199}
+VIENNE+, pop. 27,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Poste; Jacquet. In this, the
capital of the first kingdom of Burgundy, there exist remains of
important edifices, which indicate that the citizens inhabiting it in
the days of Cicero were no strangers to the luxury and wealth preceding
the Augustan age. The most interesting of these is the +Maison Carrée+,
an oblong temple of the Corinthian order, dedicated to Augustus and his
wife Livia, 55 ft. high, 88 long, and 80 broad, situated a little way
north from the cathedral by the Rue St. Clementine. On a terrace
fronting the chain bridge is +St. Maurice+, a beautiful Gothic cathedral
commenced in the 12th cent., 315 ft. long, and the roof of the nave 88
ft. high. It contains some fine glass, and near the altar the
skilfully-sculptured mausoleum of Cardinal Montmorin, who died in 1723.
At the main entrance are two ancient sarcophagi. At the other end of the
chain bridge is the Tour St. Colombe, built by Philippe Valois. Up the
Rhône, on the east side, at the top of the Quai Pajot, near a stair
leading down to the river, stood the Tour de Mauconseil, where Pontius
Pilate, who had been banished to Vienne by Tiberius, ended his life (it
is said) by throwing himself into the Rhône. About ¼ m. down the Rhône
from the railway station, by the Marseilles road, is the Pyramide de
l’Aiguille, called also the tomb of Pilate. It is 52 feet high, and
rises from four arches resting on a square basement. Columns with
cushioned capitals ornament the four corners, which cannot date earlier
than the 4th cent. Vienne is a busy commercial town, with important
woollen manufactories. 3¼ m. S. by rail is Vaugris, pop. 250. On the
other side of the Rhône is Ampuis (p. 81). 6 m. farther S. by rail is Le
Péage-de-Roussillon. Roussillon, pop. 1500, is a straggling village
among vineyards, less than a mile E. from the station. From the Château
de Roussillon Charles IX. issued, in 1564, the decree that in future the
year was to commence with the first of January.
[Headnote: ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON.]
{356½}{180½}
+ST. RAMBERT-D’ALBON+, junction with line to Grenoble 57½ m. E., by
Rives 35 m., and Voiron 42 m. E. Junction by bridge with Peyraud, 3¾ m.
W., on the opposite side of the Rhône, whence rail to Annonay (see page
81, and map pages 26 and 46).
5 m. S. by rail from St. Rambert is St. Vallier, pop. 4000. _Inn:_
Merle. On the junction of the Galaure with the Rhône. In the town is the
restored castle of Anne de Poitiers, and up the valley of the Galaure
are the pass of the Roche Taillée, the ruins of a château of the
Dauphins, and the chapel of N. D. de Vals (see map, page 46).
[Headnote: TAIN.]
{368}{169}
+TAIN+, pop. 3000. _Inns:_ H. Europe; Midi. A pleasant town on the
Rhône, immediately opposite Tournon (page 82), and at the foot of the
hill, whose vineyards produce the Hermitage wines. The red variety has
a fine perfume, and is gratefully stomachic. The white is a luxurious
wine, and will keep for a century, but the produce is small.
Omnibus at station for Romans, 13 m. on the rail between Valence
and Voiron (see map page 46), pop. 13,000. _Inns:_ Europe; Midi.
Situated at the confluence of the Isère with the Savasse, crossed by a
bridge of 4 arches which unites it with Bourg-du-Péage, pop. 5000.
[Headnote: VALENCE.]
{384}{153}
+VALENCE+, pop. 24,000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Croix d’Or; France. The first
the most expensive. Commodious Temple Protestant. Good Protestant
schools. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. Omnibus to St. Péray, 2½ m.
west. Coaches daily to Ardèche. Valence is a pleasant town on an
eminence rising from the Rhône, surrounded by broad boulevards on the
site of the old fortifications. The most handsome is the Place
Championnet, on the site of the citadel, commenced by François. It
commands an excellent view of the river and of the hills beyond. In the
distance, to the right, on an arid rock, is the castle of Crussol. In
this Place is the statue “au General Championnet, sorti des rangs du
peuple. Hommage public de sa ville natale.” Died at Antibes 1800.
To the left of the statue is the cathedral +St. Apollinaire+, built in
1095, and restored in 1604 and 1730. The west portal and tower were
rebuilt in 1880. The other parts of the exterior have a venerable
appearance. The buttresses are shallow, and do not reach the eaves.
A delicate dentil cornice runs round the building, bending over the
round-headed windows and across the buttresses. Within, the church by
restoration looks as if it were modern. Tall piers, with attached
Corinthian columns and vaulting shafts, run up to the commencement of
the arches of the aisles and of the vault of the roof, all of stone.
From the semicircular chancel radiate 4 semicircular chapels, one being
occupied by the organ. At the right or S. side of the altar is the bust
by Canova of Pope Pius VI., who died at Valence in 1799. His remains
were removed to Rome.
Outside, opposite the N. transept, is Le Pendentif, a sepulchral chapel
(22 ft. square and 25 ft. high) of the Mistral family, built in 1548. On
each side is a large round arch, over which rises a remarkably flat
dome. Close to the “Place des Clercs” is the Maison des Têtes, built in
1531, covered with mutilated statues and medallions under canopy work.
The medallions, bosses, and groining in the passage leading into the
court are in a much better state of preservation.
The windows in the court are square-headed, but most have lost their
transoms. Among the other buildings are a Temple Protestant, 18th
cent., and a picture gallery.
[Headnote: VERNOUX.]
Rail to Grenoble, 62 m. N.E., and to Chambery, 40 m. farther. Omnibus
daily to St. Péray (p. 82). Coach by St. Péray to Vernoux, 18 m. W.
Vernoux, 1920 ft. above the sea, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ Nord; Verd. Temple
Protestant. One of the nicest towns in Ardèche, situated in the midst
of carefully-cultivated mountains and valleys. A large proportion of
the inhabitants are Protestants.
[Headnote: COACHES FROM VALENCE.]
Valence is one of the most convenient places for entering the Ardèche.
Diligences from Valence to St. Laurent-du-Pape, St. Fortunat, Les
Ollières, St. Sauveur, St. Pierreville, and Le Cheilard (see page 83).
The diligences from Valence, Soyons, Charmes, Beauchastel, and La
Voulte to St. Pierreville and Le Cheilard meet at St. Laurent-du-Pape;
whence the passengers are conveyed in two diligences the length of St.
Sauveur, by St. Fortunat and Ollières. At Ollières, H. du Pont, they
meet and correspond with the diligence from Privas. From St. Sauveur
one diligence runs westward by the Glaire to St. Pierreville and
Marcols, the other northwards to Le Cheilard. Valence is 5 hrs. from
St. Sauveur. Beauchastel and La Voulte, 4 hrs. St. Sauveur to
Pierreville, 2½ hrs.; and to Le Cheilard, 3½ hrs. (see also pages 93
and 94). Coach from Valence to La Mastre, 21¼ m. W., passing by
Champis, pop. 3380, at the foot of a mountain, which during a part of
the day intercepts the rays of the sun.
ARDÈCHE.
(See Map, page 46).
Ardèche should not be visited till June, and not later than September.
In the villages and hamlets in the pastoral districts most of the best
houses are inns or auberges, where a bed can be had, and abundance of
fare, in the shape of fried potatoes, butter, milk, eggs, coffee,
bread often of rye, and hard salt pork sausages. The national dish is
potatoes sliced very thin and fried with butter. They make also a
pleasant soup of herbs mixed with potatoes. The numerous inns are
required for the accommodation of guests during the fairs, of which
each hamlet has at least 2, while the larger villages and towns have
from 4 to 8, besides market-days. One of the prettiest sights in
Ardèche is to see the people flocking from every direction along the
winding mountain roads to the village where the fair is being
held--many on foot driving small parcels of pigs, sheep, goats, or
cattle, or carrying baskets full of eggs, cheese, and butter, and
often an old hen; others with carts loaded with potatoes; others
travelling comfortably in their char-à-bancs; and others on horseback,
the women as well as the men being astride.
Many of the inns, and even of the owners, are at first sight
forbidding, but after a little kindly conversation the aspect of
things improves rapidly. In the higher regions the agricultural
products are potatoes and hay. In the next zone are wheat, chestnut,
walnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, cultivated on terraces
supported by low stone walls of rough unhewn stones. Vineyards are in
the lowest zone, on the sunny side of the mountains. The cattle are of
a goodly size, mostly cream-coloured and light brown, with large bones
and white horns generally tipped with black.
At the fairs, besides every kind of country produce, girls and
grown-up women offer their hair for sale. The best do not yield above
8s., and many only 2s. 6d. or 3s. When the bargain is made a woman
shears it off in the same way as sheep are shorn, leaving only a
little in front. It is all over in two minutes, twisted into a hank,
and thrust into a sack. Instead of receiving money, they usually take
the value in cloth and ribbons. The standard occupation of the females
during their long winters is lace-making.
Among the remarkable sights in Ardèche are the volcanic rocks, Mont
Mezenc and the Gerbier-de-Joncs, above the source of the Loire. The
most central station of the diligences is Le Cheilard (see page
83).
After Valence the railway traverses some of the most picturesque parts
of the valley of the Rhône. At Mornas, 44½ m. S. from Valence and
23½ m. N. from Avignon, begins the region of the olives.
[Headnote: LIVRON.]
{395}{142}
+LIVRON+, pop. 4500, on the Drôme, at some distance from the station.
Restaurants at station. Inns in the town. On the other side of the
Rhône, connected by railway bridge, is La Voulte, 1¼ m. W. (see p. 82).
A highway, partly by rail and partly by diligence, extends from
Livron, 68 m. east, to Aspres on the line between Grenoble and
Marseilles. As far as the Pass de Cabres the road ascends the
picturesque and well-cultivated valley of the Drôme, where there is
a large Protestant population, nearly every village having its Temple
Protestant (see maps, pages 26, 46, and 56).
[Headnote: CREST.]
11 miles E. from Livron by rail is Crest, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_
Bonsans-Reboul, the best; opposite the France; and on the promenade,
by the side of the river and the bridge, the inn Pont de la Drôme. The
omnibuses of the two hotels await passengers. Crest is situated partly
on the Drôme and partly on the steep sides of a high hill. At the
foot, in the market-place, are the parish church and the Bibliothèque.
Straight up from the bridge by the R. des Cordeliers, and a flight of
116 steps, is the entrance to the poor church of N. D. de la Garde,
attached to the “Asile” for young children. A little higher up are the
hospital and church. Above the “Asile” is the entrance to the
enclosure, on which stands a huge structure, partly Roman and partly
the remains of a castle which was added to it in the 13th cent. The
highest side is 170 ft. above the ground, and the other three 148 ft.,
ascended by 260 steps. Although so high, the view is limited by the
high side, into which visitors are not admitted. The concierge lives
below in the town, near the hotel. The best way up the hill is by the
first narrow street, left from the hotel, the Rue de la Carrière,
which continue to a stone lettered “limite de l’Octroi,” whence ascend
by the path, right, to the Calvary, where there is a splendid view of
the valley of the Drôme.
[Map: Ardeche: Its Vineyards and Extinct Volcanoes]
[Headnote: SAOU.]
Coaches daily from Crest to Montelimart, 22½ m. S.W. (see Index); also
to Beaufort, 12 m. N.E., on the Geroanne. From the copious source of
the Geroanne are occasionally thrown up blind trout. 3 miles from
Beaufort is the picturesque gorge of Ombléze. Coach also to Bourdeaux,
16 m. S., passing Saou, 9 m. S. from Crest (see map, p. 56). Saou,
pronounced Sou, pop. 1200, is a poor dirty village on the Vebre.
_Inn:_ H. Lattard. Mixed up with and built into the surrounding
squalid houses are the remains of the abbey church and buildings of
Saint Tiers, founded in the 9th cent. The best parts are the wall and
square tower near the Mairie. The remains of the church are within the
court of a stable. Near it is the little parish church, 12th and 13th
cents. Saou is visited principally on account of the beauty of the
narrow valley of the Vebre, between two ranges of wooded mountains,
from 4000 to 5000 ft. above the sea, with sand and limestone strata
piled up into vertical cliffs and twisted into strange fantastic
forms. It is 8 m. long, and from a few yards to 2 m. wide. At the
commencement or west end, and on the right or N. side of the stream,
is the Roche Colombe, 4595 feet above the sea, and opposite, on the
other side, is the Roc, an isolated cliff like the shaft of a column.
Mt. Colombe has also a columnar cliff, and at the base a house called
the Donjon de Lastic, 14th cent., and a little farther down a square
house, with two round turrets, called the Château d’Eurre. The best
parts of the valley are this entrance and the east end, or its
termination, where the Roche Courbe or Veillou rises to the height of
5324 ft. above the sea, and on which is the source of the Vebre. At
the foot of Mt. Pomeyrol, about a mile from the entrance, the valley
becomes so narrow that there is scarcely sufficient room for the
stream to pass through. 2¼ m. farther up is the villa of Tibur, and,
a little beyond, the terminus of the valley.
[Headnote: BOURDEAUX. DIEULEFIT.]
Coach from Saou to Bourdeaux, 7 m. S. Bourdeaux, pop. 1800. _Inns:_
Blanc; Petit; Temple Protestant. On both sides of the Roubion, 8 m. N.
from Dieulefit. On the left side of the river is the old town,
composed of squalid houses and execrably paved steep lanes, creeping
up the hill, crowned with the ruins of a large castle founded in the
8th cent. Agriculture and the rearing of silkworms are the chief
industries. Although Bourdeaux is hardly 8 m. from Dieulefit the
courrier requires 2 hours to perform the journey, as a high mountain
ridge, the Dieu-Grace, intervenes between the two places.
Dieulefit, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ H. du Levant; Temple Protestant. On the
Jabron at the foot of Mont de Dieu-Grace, 17½ m. E. from Montelimart,
between which two towns several coaches run daily. In the town are
silk, cotton, and cloth mills, and in the suburbs potteries where a
coarse kitchen ware is made. The principal towns passed on the road to
Montelimart are Poët-Lavat, 3⅛ m.; La Begude, 7½ m.; under
Châteauneuf-de-Mazenc and Montboucher, situated on eminences at a
considerable distance from the road (see map, page 56).
[Headnote: DIE.]
CREST TO ASPRES (Maps, pp. 46 and 56).
_Crest to Aspres, 57 miles east by Die._--The road as far as the Pass
de Cabres follows the course of the Drôme. The first town passed is
Saillans, 9½ m. E. from Crest, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ Lambert; Latour. In
a ravine of the Drôme, 6½ m. farther, is Pontaix, similarly situated.
23 m. E. from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, is Die, pop. 4000, the
principal town in the valley of the Drôme, which here receives the
Mérosse. _Inns:_ St. Dominique; Alpes--the coach stops between them;
Église Protestante. The Clairette de Die is a thin white wine, drank
during its first year; in the second it is apt to deteriorate. Coach
to Châtillon, 12 m. S.E. Die, on the Drôme, is in a small plain
surrounded by mountains, of which the most remarkable is Mont Glandaz,
6648 ft. above the sea, flanked by great buttress cliffs. On the top
is an undulating plateau, covered with _small_ stones and grass; 5
hrs. required for the ascent. At the foot of the mountain is the
rustic but not uncomfortable establishment of Sallières-les-Bains;
pension per day, with baths, 9 frs. The treatment is called “Sudations
résineuses.” The bath resembles a large oven, in which, after having
been heated with resinous fir-wood, the patients sit as in a Turkish
bath. Open from 15th June to 15th September. The landlord is likewise
proprietor of a large part of Mt. Glandaz, whence he receives his
supplies of fir-wood. On the top of a hill on the other side of the
Drôme is a similar establishment, called the Martouret, pension 12
frs. The way to it strikes off the main road opposite the eminence, on
which is the chapel of Notre Dame, commanding a very good view of the
valley. At the entrance into Die from Crest, at one of the old
gateways, a road strikes off to the left, which makes the tour of the
ruins of the castle, amidst vines and mulberry trees. At the other end
of the town, near the viaduct, is a much better gateway or Roman
triumphal arch, fronting the “Place” St. Marcel. The parish church has
been rebuilt, excepting the narthex.
[Headnote: LUC. ASPRES.]
From Die the road to Aspres is continued by another diligence, which
changes horses at +LUC+ en Diois, pop. 940. _Inn:_ Du Levant; Église
Protestante, 10½ m. S. from Die, or 23½ N.W. from Aspres. A poor town,
among vineyards and walnut trees, on the Drôme, at the foot of high
mountains. Nearly a mile up the river the narrow gorge becomes almost
closed by huge fantastic masses of conglomerate which have fallen from
the adjoining cliffs. 9½ m. farther up the valley is the village of
Beaurières (_Inn_, where the coach changes horses). The ascent is now
commenced by a beautiful and excellent road, of the Col de Cabres,
15 m. S. from Luc, and 4923 ft. high. On the pass, 2 m. from
Beaurières, is La Baume, with the cave of Baumette, and a waterfall
195 ft. high. 4½ miles from Baume, and 3 from Aspres, is St. Pierre
d’Argenson, with a sparkling acidulous chalybeate spring, grateful to
the palate and invigorating to the system, and forming a refreshing
mixture with the wine of Aspres, which is thin, and is at its best
when 2 years old. Aspres, pop. 800, is situated on the railway,
126½ m. N. from Marseilles, and 77½ m. S. from Grenoble. The coach
sets down passengers either at the station or at the inn H. Ferdinand.
The church has been rebuilt, excepting the portal, which has on the
tympanum a curious representation of the Trinity.
[Headnote: MONTÉLIMART.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{412}{125}
+MONTÉLIMART+, pop. 12,000, situated at the confluence of the Roubion
and Jabron with the Rhône. _Hotels:_ near the station, the France; in
the town the Poste; the Princes. The office of the coaches for Le Teil,
on the W. side of the Rhône; for Grignan, p. 49; Dieulefit, p. 47;
Bourdeaux, p. 47; and Nyons, p. 50; is near the hotels Poste and
Princes. Up the Grande Rue is the principal church. On the opposite side
of it is the Place d’Armes, with the Post Office, the Palais de Justice,
and the Hôtel de Ville. At the top of the first flight of steps in the
Hôtel de Ville is a marble slab 1 yard long and 2 ft. wide, bearing in
Latin a charter of the town engraved in 1198. At the end of the street,
the Rue Porte-Neuve, off the “Place,” is the Temple Protestant.
Montelimart is famous for white almond-cake, “Nougat,” of which the best
is in the shops in the Grande Rue. On an eminence on the side of the
town farthest from the station are the ancient citadel and the tour de
Narbonne, 11th cent. Montelimart, originally a city of the Seglauni,
became a Roman settlement under the name of Montilium, which was changed
afterwards into Monteil-d’Adhemar by a powerful family, who came into
possession of it in the days of Charlemagne. To the same family belonged
also Rochemaure, on the opposite side of the Rhône (see page 92, and map
page 56).
Omnibuses to the sparkling chalybeate spring of Bondonneau, 2½ m. S.E.
Two coaches daily to Grignan, 15 m. S.E. from Montelimart; one by
Alan and Reauville, the other goes round by Donzère, 4½ m. longer.
(See map, page 56.)
According to Mr. Murray (p. 109) in the village of Alan, half-way
between Montelimart and Grignan, “there existed down to 1802 the first
white mulberry tree planted in France. It was brought from Naples by
Guy Pope de St. Auban, seigneur of Alan, one of the soldiers who
accompanied Charles VIII. on his Italian campaign, in 1494.” The
mulberry tree occupies a much wider zone in the south of France than
the olive (see map, page 56).
[Headnote: GRIGNAN. MARQUISE DE SÉVIGNÉ.]
+Grignan+, pop. 1900; _Inn:_ Sévigné, is built on the slopes of a hill
on the top of which, 100 ft. above the “Place,” are the gardens and
ugly half-ruined and half-inhabited castle where Mme. Sévigné died.
The former Salle du Roi has been converted into a picture-gallery,
containing upwards of 300 paintings, among which the most interesting
are--the portraits of Madame and her daughter, by Mignard. About
half-way up the hill is the church, commenced in the 12th cent. In
front of the altar a white marble slab, 2½ ft. long by 1½ wide, bears
the following inscription:-- “Cy Git Marie de Rabutin Chantal,
Marquise de Sévigné. Décédé le 18 Avril 1696.” Above the well, in the
“Place,” is a bronze statue of her with corkscrew curls. About ½ m.
from the town is what was one of her favourite walks to an overhanging
ledge of sandstone called the Grotte de Roche-Courbière. To visit it,
descend from the inn, then take the first byeroad right, by a row of
poplars to a short stair. A coach runs from Grignan to Nyons, 20½ m.
S.E. by Valréas and Taulignan. +Valréas+ (pronounce the “s”), 8¼ m.
from Nyons and 22 from Orange, pop. 950; _Inn:_ H. du Nord, is partly
surrounded with its old walls, garnished with square towers and
pierced by narrow gateways. Taulignan, 17 m. N.W. from Nyons by
Valréas and 11¼ m. by Rousset, _Inn:_ H. du Commerce, pop. 1200, is
also partly surrounded with its old walls.
{420}{117}
+DONZERE.+ H. du Commerce. Romanesque church with handsome spire. Four
and a half miles south is +Pierrelatte+ station, and the terminus of the
unfinished railway to Nyons, 15 miles from Grignan.
Coach from Pierrelatte to St. Paul-Trois-Châteaux, fare 6 sous, time
45 minutes. This, the Roman Augusta-Tricastinorum, contains an
interesting cathedral of the 12th cent., restored. Many Roman relics
have been found in the neighbourhood.
[Headnote: LA CROISIERE.]
{432}{105}
+LA CROISIERE.+ Two small inns at station.
Omnibus awaits passengers for Pont Saint-Esprit, H. de l’Europe, 3½ m.
W. on the other side of the Rhône by an avenue of poplars. Fare, 40 c.
The bridge is 2756 ft. long, has 20 arches, was commenced in 1265 and
finished in 1309. Till 1865 it had 21 arches, when the two at the W.
end were demolished and converted into one large iron arch for the
convenience of the steamboat to pass through. (For Pont Saint-Esprit,
see page 98).
Diligence at La Croisiere station for Nyons, 29½ m. E. by the valleys
of the Lez and the Aigues, and the town of Bollène, pop. 6000. _Inn:_
Croix Blanche, on the Lez, 4½ m. E. Manufactures of fire-bricks and
clay-tubing. 7½ m. E., Suze-le-Rousse, pop. 2200. Coach here to
Mansis. 12 m. E., Tulette, pop. 1300; _Inn:_ Vigne. Horses changed
here. 15¾ m. E., St. Maurice, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. Near the
village of Vinsobres a cross-road leads to the highway between Nyons
and Vaison. At Nyons the coach stops in the “Place” in front of the H.
du Louvre; whence the diligences start for Grignan and Montelimart
(see map, page 56).
[Headnote: NYONS.]
+NYONS+, on the Aigues, pop. 4000. _Hotels:_ Louvre, in the Place;
Voyageurs, in a corner. Temple Protestant next the hospital. Nyons,
surrounded by high mountains, is famous for its mild springs, and
therefore eminently fitted for those returning from the Riviera. The
orange and palm do not grow here, but abundance of mulberry, almond,
fig, peach, and pear trees. In the oak forests are remarkably fine
truffles. Silk mills and the preserving of fruit and truffles supply
the principal industries. The old town, called Les Forts, is built on
an eminence partly surrounded with its old walls garnished with square
towers, 14th cent. The vieux château, or centre tower, has been
converted by the curate into a chapel surmounted with an image of the
“immaculately conceived.” The part of the town below is called Les
Halles, whose dirty streets are bordered with thick heavy arches. The
rest of the town, extending to the Aigues, is called the Bourg. The
bridge, built in 1341, is of one arch and considerably higher in the
centre than at the ends.
[Headnote: THE PONTIAS BREEZE.]
Behind the old town is the ridge called the Col-du-Divès, on which is
the cavern, or rather hole, whence it is reported (most absurdly) that
the night-breeze called the Pontias issues. In winter this wind is
very cold, and blows from 5 P.M. to 9 A.M. In summer it is pleasant,
and blows from 9 P.M. to 7 A.M. The peculiarity is, that the degree of
force is constant, and never breaks out into gusts. To go to the cave,
commence from the foot of the tower of the church and ascend by the
Rue Pousterle, having on the left the old town-walls. Beyond the last
tower a path strikes off to the right, which take, and ascend to a
small chapel on the top of the ridge, passing at about half-way a
pavilion. Or, if preferred, continue the road from the tower to the
part of the ridge where there is a gap; whence take the path at the
back of the ridge leading to the chapel. Those who have ascended by
this latter way retrace their steps from the chapel by the same path
for 116 yards; while those who have come by the other go 116 yards
beyond the chapel. Then about 30 yards to the left of the path will be
observed the thin ledge of a rock overlying a small cavity, which is
the entrance to the Pontias hole, of great depth, but otherwise of
insignificant dimension. Among the neighbouring calcareous strata are
several crevices. The view of the valley of the Aigues from this hill
is very beautiful. The ascent takes 35 minutes.
NYONS TO SERRES.
+Nyons to Serres+ (see map, p. 56), 41 miles east by the valleys of
the Aigues and Blème, bounded on both sides by high mountains. Time,
7 to 8 hours. Fare, 7½ frs. Most of the towns passed are at a
considerable height above the road, and sometimes on account of the
steepness of the banks cannot be seen from it. The first village
passed is Les Piles, situated on the road 3¾ m. from Nyons, and 3½ m.
from the gorge “Des 30 Pas,” one of the excursions from Nyons.
A little farther E. is Curnier, on a hill on the S. side of the river,
here crossed by a bridge. Then follows Sahune, also on a hill on the
S. side of the river. The gorge now becomes very narrow and the
mountains precipitous, and, having passed under Villeperdrix, the road
crosses to the S. side of the river and arrives at the station for St.
May, where there is an inn, H. Marius. St. May itself is high up on
the opposite side of the river. The cemetery is on the point of a
lofty precipitous rock. After St. May the diligence crosses the river
to the village of Rémusat, 17 m. E. from Nyons on the Oule, at its
junction with the Aigues. The diligence now returns to the S. side of
the river, which it crosses for the last time at Verclause, 22 m. from
Nyons, and then proceeds to Rosans, 3½ m. farther or 15½ m. from
Serres. From Rosans commences the ascent of the low Col of Ribeyret,
whence the road descends to Serres by the N. side of the Blème,
passing the villages of Epine and Montclus. Serres, pop. 1200. _Inns:_
Voyageurs; Alpes. On the railway, 112½ m. N. from Marseilles and 77½
S. from Grenoble (see p. 340).
[Headnote: ORANGE.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{444}{93}
+ORANGE+, pop. 10,300. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste et des Princes. This, the
Arausio of the Romans, is situated on the slowly-running Meine. Close to
the hotel is the Triumphal Arch supposed to have been erected in honour
of Tiberius for his victory over Sacrovir and Floras, A.D. 21. It stands
E. and W., is of a yellowish sandstone, 75 ft. high, 64 wide, 27½ deep,
and consists of 3 arches, of which the centre one has a span of 17 ft.
and each of the other two a span of 10 ft. The soffits are ornamented
with six-sided sculptured panels. By the side of each arch is a grooved
Corinthian column. Over the small arches are sculptured trophies in the
shape of shields, boars, bulls, rostra, ropes, masts, dolphins, arrows,
etc. Over the main arch, on each side, is a group representing a combat.
At the other end of the town are the cathedral and the Roman theatre at
the foot of the hill, crowned with an image of Mary. The +Cathedral+ of
Notre Dame, 12th cent., is small, and resembles in style the churches of
the S.W. of France, of which the cathedral of Perpignan is the great
type. No transepts nor triforia. Lofty chapels between the buttresses,
and over the arches diminutive clerestory windows. A plain and ugly
square tower, in this case, at the east end. Adjoining is the Place de
l’Hôtel de Ville, with a statue to “Raimbaud II., Comte d’Orange,
vainqueur à Antioche et à Jérusalem en MXCIX.” In the promenade of the
town, the Cours St. Martin, is a statue to the Comte de Gasparin,
a writer on agriculture, and a native of Orange; where also he died in
1862. At the foot of the hill, overlooking the town, are the grand and
imposing ruins of one of the most perfect Roman theatres. It is built in
a semicircular form, has a façade 118 ft. high and 384 ft. wide. The
wall is 13 ft. thick, composed of huge blocks of stone. The semicircular
wall consists of five stages, and included accommodation for 6500
spectators. The building has recently been repaired and cleared of a
quantity of rubbish.
[Headnote: PRINCE OF ORANGE AND ORANGEMEN.]
In the 11th cent. Orange became an independent countship, probably under
Raimbaud I., whose successor, Raimbaud II., has just been noticed. On
the death of Philibert of Châlons, last of the third line of princes,
the inheritance fell to his sister’s son Count René (Renatus) of
Nassau-Dillenburg, who remaining childless chose as his successor his
cousin William I., stadtholder of the United Netherlands. The title
“Prince of Orange” was consequently borne by the stadtholders Maurice,
Frederick-Henry, William I., William II., and William III. After the
Revolution in Ireland of 1688, the English-Protestant party were
designated Orangemen, from the title of their leader, William III.,
Prince of Orange. Louis XIV. seized the principality of Orange in 1672,
but lost it by the peace of Ryswick. On the death of William III. there
were two claimants--John William Friso of Nassau-Dietz, designated by
William’s will, and Frederick I, King of Prussia, who claimed to be
nearer of kin, and to have been appointed by the will of
Frederick-Henry. Thereupon Louis XIV. declared the principality a
forfeited fief of the French crown, and assigned it to the Prince of
Conti. The Parliament of Paris decided that this last prince should have
the _dominium utile_; and its finding was confirmed by the treaty of
Utrecht (1713), which, however, left the title and coat of arms to the
King of Prussia, who is still styled Prince of Orange (Prinz von
Oranien). John William Friso, however, also took the title, and his
successors the stadtholders and kings of the Netherlands have all been
designated princes of Orange-Nassau. Vast numbers of silkworms are
reared at Orange. Coach daily to Valréas 22 m. E., p. 49, and to Vaison
17½ m. N.E. (Map p. 56.)
[Headnote: VAISON. ST. QUENIN.]
+Vaison+, pop. 3400. _Inn:_ H. du Commerce. 5 m. N. from Malaucene,
17½ m. N. from Carpentras, 11¼ m. S. from Nyons, 13½ m. W. from Le
Buis, and 4 m. S. from Villedieu. Old or high Vaison is on the left
side of the Ouvèze, and new Vaison on the right. Both are connected by
a Roman bridge of one arch of 48 ft. span, having at the left side a
more elongated curve than at the right. The old town, with its squalid
streets and poor houses, covers the sides of a hill crowned with the
ruins of a castle built by Raymond VI., Count of Toulouse, in 1195. It
is a plain rectangular edifice, 20 yards square, with a small square
tower at one of the angles. A little below is the parish church with
round and early pointed arches and square tower at S.E. end. The view
from the terrace is beautiful.
The most ancient and most interesting buildings are in new Vaison, and
very near each other. Take the Villedieu road to just without the
town, where a byeway on the right leaves the main road at an acute
angle. Continue this byeway to two arches, which indicate the site of
the Roman theatre. The chapel seen to the N.W. is St. Quenin, while a
little beyond is the cathedral. The amphitheatre, or “les arènes” as
they call it, is built on the same plan, and in a similar position, as
the theatre of Orange, but far less perfect. Besides the two arches,
there exist still five tiers, but all the stone seats are gone,
excepting those on the lowest stage. Now it has become a vineyard and
an orchard. Beyond, by a narrow road, is St. Quenin, of which the east
end is Roman, and may date from the 4th cent., but the rest belongs to
the 10th. The east end, or apsidal termination, is in the form of an
equilateral triangle, with an attached fluted Corinthian column at the
apex, and also at each of the angles of the base. One of the pillars
has figures on the capital. The neat little round-headed window on
each side of the triangle is evidently a later addition. Bishop Quenin
died in 578.
Of the +Cathedral+ the best part is also the outside. Under the eaves
of the roof of the nave run a dentil moulding, and a frieze of
medallions connected by an undulating line of foliage. The walls are
pierced by small round-headed windows resting on spiral colonnettes.
The frieze of the aisles is plainer. In the interior, early pointed
arches of great span, rising from four massive piers of clustered
pilasters on each side of the nave, support a narrow-vaulted roof,
also pointed. This part of the church dates from the 12th or 13th
cent.; but the chancel, with its two Roman pillars, and arcade of
blank arches on colonnettes, is much earlier. Over the little chapel,
at the N.E. side, rises an elegant square tower. Next the tower is a
very beautiful cloister, 11th cent., bearing some resemblance to the
cloister of St. Michel in Brittany. It is 22 yards square, surrounded
by an arcade of 13 arches on colonnettes in couples 3½ ft. high. At
the corners is either a massive stone pier, or the stone hewn into 5
colonnettes. All the Roman antiquities Vaison has retained for itself
are under this corridor. The most perfect piece of sculpture is a
skull. On the top of the hill opposite the castle stands an image of
the “Immaculée” on the capital and part of the shaft of a Roman
column. (Map p. 56.)
[Headnote: SORGUES.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{455}{82}
+SORGUES+, pop. 4000, on the Sorgues, which rises at Vaucluse. Junction
with line to Carpentras, 10½ m. eastwards. +Carpentras+, pop. 10,500, on
an eminence surrounded by avenues, rising from the Auzon. _Hotels:_
Universe; Orient, both good, and in the large “Place” opposite, the
Hôtel-Dieu, built in 1760 by Bishop Malachie. In the Hôtel-Dieu are a
portrait by Rigaud of the Abbot Rancé, and a handsome staircase. In the
centre of the Place is a bronze statue of the benevolent Malachie
d’Inguimbert. From this “Place,” up the narrow street, the first public
building is the church of St. Siffrein, dating from 1405.
The square tower, with octangular cupola, attached to the north side
of the chancel, was part of a former church constructed in the time of
Charlemagne. The stair (89 steps) up to the roof, whence there is a
pleasing view, commences at the south side of the chancel, outside.
Among the pictures in the interior of the church, the best is a
“Salutation” by the Flemish painter Andreas Schoonjans. Behind the
pulpit is a picture by Mignard representing Mary giving some of her
milk to St. Bernard. At the commencement of the chancel, near the
cupola, is the chapel in which the reliquaries are kept. Among them
are the skull and bones of St Siffrein, and the nail that pierced the
right hand of J. C. on the Cross. In the chancel is a “Coronation” of
Mary painted on wood, 15th cent., and behind the altar another
“Coronation” by P. Veronese. In the foreground are Saints Laurence and
Siffrein. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, 1640, with frescoes and
a crucifix in the “salle des assises.” Within the court, right hand,
is a Triumphal arch, erected by Diocletian between 284 and 305, 30 ft.
high (but originally higher), 25½ ft. wide, 14½ ft deep, and 10 ft.
span. On the N. side, between two attached fluted columns, is, in bold
relief, a Latin cross with the arms at obtuse angles. On each side
stands a prisoner, with his hands behind him, chained loosely to the
cross. From the cross are suspended swords, horns, and pouches. On the
south side is a similar cross, but not in such a good state of
preservation. The main beam resembles more the stem of a tree. From
the top hangs the dress of a warrior.
[Headnote: CARPENTRAS. MUSEUM.]
The continuation of the street from the church leads to the Porte
d’Orange, surmounted by a square tower 120 ft. high, of which only
three sides exist. It was built by Innocent VI., who also surrounded
the town with the ramparts, which now form beautiful Boulevards. From
the boulevard in front of the gate are seen to the left the canal
aqueduct, to the right the town water aqueduct, and in the distance,
between the two, beyond a smaller ridge, Mont Ventoux, extending from
N.W. to S.E., with a slight bend. The aqueduct which brings water to
Carpentras crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 massive arches. The
canal, which by irrigation fertilises the surrounding country, extends
from the Durance to the Ouvèze, a distance of 43 miles, and cost
£90,000. In the principal Boulevard, nearly opposite the manufactory
of preserved fruits of Eysseric, is the building containing the
library and museum. The library contains a valuable collection of
manuscripts, explained in a printed 4to volume, several rare
incunables, and above 4000 vols., for which there is not sufficient
accommodation. In the “Musée” are a few good pictures, and Roman
statuettes in bronze and marble, all from Vaison, excepting a small
Apollo found at Carpentras. The gem of the antiquities is an
Egyptian-Aramaic limestone slab, 4th or 3d cent. B.C., 19¼ in. long by
13½ wide and 1 thick, divided into three compartments by narrow
borders. In the principal compartment stands a young woman with
uplifted hands before Osiris, who is seated in front of a table on
which are sacrifices. Behind Osiris stands Isis. Below, in the second
compartment, is the embalmed body of the deceased, attended by the
jackal-headed Anubis and the hawk-headed Horus. Below the body are the
four customary funeral vases. Below this, in the third compartment, is
an Aramaic inscription in four lines, of which the last two are
injured. The first French opera was written in Carpentras by the Abbot
Mailly in 1646.
[Headnote: TRUFFLES.]
Truffles or tuberous mushrooms are black, dark gray, violet-coloured,
or white. The last variety, principally found in the N. of Italy, has
the smell of garlic. About Carpentras, and in the department of
Vaucluse, they are black, and are found from 4 inches to 1 foot below
the ground, at the extremities of the fibrous roots, both of the
common and of the evergreen oak. The season for gathering them is from
November to the end of March, after which those which remain become
soft and decompose. They are at their best in January, when the rind
is black, hard, and rough, and the inside mottled black and white. In
size and shape the best resemble small round potatoes, of which the
largest may weigh ½ lb., although few are of that size. They are
sought by means of dogs and swine, both of a peculiar breed; the sow
being the more dexterous of the two, and continues efficient for its
duty for upwards of 21 years. It scoops out the earth with its
powerful snout in a masterly manner faster than any dog can do. When
just about to seize the truffle, the attendant thrusts a stick between
its jaws, picks up the truffle himself, and throws to the sow instead
two acorns. Without this reward each time, the sow would not continue
the search. Till the truffles are ripe, they have no odour.
[Headnote: ORTOLANS.]
The +ortolans+, which breed about the hills and woods of Carpentras,
migrate in autumn. While on the wing they are allured down to nets
laid for them by ortolans singing in cages. Those caught are put into
dark rooms, where they are fattened. In about a month’s time they
become so plump as hardly to be able to fly, when they are killed and
sold, excepting a few kept for alluring the others next year. The
singing time of these is transferred from spring to August, by pulling
out the large feathers of the tail and wings in April, and keeping
them in a dark apartment till August.
Carpentras is also famous for its preserved fruits and “berlingots,”
a sweetmeat made of the syrup of a mixture of fruits, not unlike
barley sugar, but cut into pieces 1 in. square. The best maker is
Eysseric.
Carpentras is a good halting-place for delicate people returning from
the Riviera--the hotels are comfortable and the prices
moderate--excellent public library, pleasant walks, and in the
vicinity of many interesting places connected by roomy diligences.
Coach daily from Carpentras to Nyons 28½ m. N., by Vacqueyras 6½ m.,
and Vaison 17½ m. Also to Nyons 26 m., by Malaucene 10 m. N.E., and
Vaison 15 m. by this way. Coach to Buis-les-Baronnies 23 m. N.E.,
passing through Malaucene. Coach from Buis to Nyons 19 m. N.W. by
Mollans. Courrier from Vaison to Buisson 7½ m. N. on the Aigues. Coach
to Sault 28½ m. E.
Omnibus several times daily to St. Didier 4½ m. S.E. Coach daily to
L’Ile 10½ m. S., convenient for visiting the fountain of Vaucluse.
Coach on market-days from Carpentras to Apt 28½ m. S.E., by Venasque
7¼ m. S.E. (For these places see Index, and maps pages 56 and 66.)
[Headnote: BEDOIN. MONT VENTOUX.]
Coach daily to +Bedoin+ 8¾ m. N.E., 900 ft. above the sea, pop. 1300.
_Inn:_ Hôtel de Mont Ventoux. Station to ascend Mont Ventoux, 6274
ft., by a good road from the south end of the ridge. The base is about
2 m. from the village and the top 10 m. by the easy southern slope.
Time to ascend, from 5 to 6 hours. Mule, 10 frs. No guide necessary.
Before commencing the ascent, go to the top of the hill by the side of
the church and take a general survey of the land. The road extending
to the right, under those mulberry trees, is the one to take. A little
distance along it, at a well with a cistern, a narrow road strikes off
to the left and ascends the mountain by a steeper and shorter way. The
mountain offers a splendid field for botanists. To see the sun rise
from the top, travellers generally start at 11 P.M., and await the
appearance of the glorious luminary in the chapel of Ste. Croix, on
the summit. Mont Ventoux is the culminating point of the Lure range,
an offshoot from the Alps. Among the minerals it has quartz in every
form and colour, in nodules and in strata. Also beautiful jasper and
fossils such as ammonites and belemnites. The kaoline clay, “terre de
Bedouin,” is found in the plain between Bedoin and Crillon, a village
2¾ m. N.E. At different parts in this neighbourhood are strata of
sandstone with fossils, overlying beds of sand. These strata crop up
at different parts of the department.
[Map: The Plains between the Ardeche, the Rhone and the Durance]
[Headnote: RESIN BATHS. MALAUCENE.]
Four and a half m. S. by omnibus from Carpentras is the village of
+St. Didier+, with a good hydropathic establishment in an old château.
Rooms from 1½ fr. to 3 frs. Servants’ rooms, 1 fr. Meat, breakfast and
dinner, both with wine, 5 frs. Coffee in the mornings, ½ fr. Meat,
breakfast and dinner, for children and servants, 3 frs. Service, ½ fr.
First consultation, 10 frs. Every other consultation in the study
gratis; but in the guests’ room 1 fr. each time. The baths are in the
style of the Turkish baths, with the addition that the heated air is
impregnated with resin or is turpentinised (_térébenthiné_). It has a
beneficial effect on the lungs and muscular rheumatism. St. Didier is
2¾ m. W. from Venasque and 2 m. from Le Beaucet (map p. 56).
Two coaches daily from Carpentras to Buis-les-Baronnies, 23 m. N.E.,
by Malaucene 10 m. N.E. The road from Carpentras, in crossing the N.W.
extremity of the Ventoux chain, passes by the village of Le Barroux on
a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 15th cent. At the foot of
Mont Ventoux, 5 m. S. from Vaison and 13 m. S.W. from Buis, is
+Malaucene+, 1000 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Hôtel de Cours,
in a picturesque neighbourhood, of which there is a good view from the
calvary on an eminence in the town. At about ½ m. from the inn is the
spring Groseau, gushing forth from the base of a lofty calcareous
cliff, crowned with the ruins of the chapel of Groseaux, 11th cent.
The stream that issues from the spring is soon strong enough to set in
motion the machinery of paper, silk, and flour mills. Any one may
visit the silk mills. In 1345 Petrarch ascended Mont Ventoux from
Malaucene. The ascent from this place is more difficult, but more
picturesque than from Bedoin and requires 2 hours more. On the side of
the mountain are the springs--Angel, 3826 ft.; Puits de Mont-Serein,
4774 ft.; and Font Filiole, 5866 ft.
The road from Malaucene to Buis follows the picturesque valley of the
Ouvèze. The most important village passed on the way is Mollans, with,
in the neighbourhood, a great cave, beyond which is a deep lake.
Shortly before arriving at Le Buis are seen, on an eminence, the
bronze statue of Bishop Trophime, and beyond, the cliff of St. Julien.
No public vehicle goes farther than Le Buis, although the road is good
the length of the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble, passing St.
Euphemie 7 m. E., St. Auban 10 m. E., Montguers 11¼ m. E., Lacombe
13¼ m. E., and Laborel 27 m. E., after which the road descends to the
railway by the valley of the Céans.
[Headnote: LE BUIS.]
+LE BUIS+, pop. 2000; _Inns:_ Luxembourg; Commerce; is situated in a
hollow on the Ouvèze surrounded by mountains covered with olive,
mulberry, fig, peach, and cherry trees. Schistose and shingle strata
cover some parts; at others there are calcareous rocks in every form,
either in gigantic cliffs or in countless strata of various thickness
and at different angles. To go to the statue of St. Trophime and to
the top of St. Julien, having crossed the bridge, ascend by the
winding road to the valley, right hand, which continue to the next
bridge. For the statue cross the bridge and go directly to the right:
for the cliffs, ascend by the back of St. Julien by the path on the
left, just before reaching the bridge.
[Map: SKETCH PLAN OF AVIGNON.
+1.+ Palace of the Popes: the small building opposite is the
Consistoire de Musique; by the side of the palace is the church of
Notre-Dame Des Doms, and by the side of the church, on the top of
the hill, the beautiful promenade des Doms; whence a stair leads
down to the Rhone, near 23, the old bridge Bénézet. Below the
promenade is, +2+, formerly an archbishop’s palace, now a
seminary. Below the Pope’s Palace is +B+, the Place de l’Hotel de
Ville, with the H. de Ville and theatre. The street +C C+,
extending southward to the principal station, is called the R. de
la Republique or Rue Petrarque, its original name. Just behind,
+3+, the Hotel de Ville is the church of St. Agricol, and a little
farther S.W. is the Rue Calade, with, at +4+, the Musée Calvet,
and at +5+, across the Rue de la Republique, the Musée Requien,
a museum of natural history. Farther east is, +6+, St. Joseph’s
College, with all that remains of the Church of the Cordeliers,
where Laura was buried. That large building at the east corner of
the town, +7+, is the Hotel-Dieu or hospital; the gate, +O+,
beside it, is the Porte St. Lazare; while +8+ indicates the road
to the cemetery. A short way E. from the Place de l’Hotel de Ville
is, +9+, the church of St. Pierre. No. 10, not far from the
station, is the Penitentiary, formerly the Convent of the
Celestins, founded by Clement VII. in 1879; entrance from the
Place du Corps-Saint. No. 13, Convent du St. Sacrement. 14. Chapel
Bénézet on bridge. 15. St. Symphorien. 16. Sacré-Cœur. 17. Prison.
18. Mont-de-Piété. 19. Court-house. 20. Lyceum. 21. Prefecture.
22. Suspension Bridge. 23. Bénézet Bridge. A, Place du Palais.
B, Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. C, Rue de la République. D, Rue
Calade. F, Place du Corps Saint. G, Rue des Lices. H, Place Pie.
J, Vieux Septier. K, Rue du Saule. L, Rue Carréterie. M, Porte du
Rhône. N, Porte de la Ligne. O, Porte St. Lazarus. Q, Porte
L’Imbert. R, Porte St. Michael. S, Porte St. Roche. T, Porte de
l’Oulle.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{461}{76}
+AVIGNON+, pop. 39,000, surrounded with strong embrasured walls,
garnished with 39 towers, and pierced with 9 gates, is situated on the
Rhône, 2 m. above its junction with the Durance, and 20 m. N.E. from
+Nîmes+ by the railway passing the Pont d’Avignon and Remoulins.
_Hotels:_ *Europe, near the Pont; *Luxembourg; Louvre; St. Yves, in the
centre of the town, near the Place Pie, the great market-place. Temple
Protestant in the R. Dorée, near the Préfecture. Cabstands at station
and in the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, 2 frs. per hour. From the station,
a beautiful avenue, the Cours de la République, leads up to the Place de
l’Hôtel de Ville, with statue “au brave Crillon,” the friend of Henri
IV., “Louis des Balbes-Berton duc de Crillon et Lieutenant-colonel de
l’infanterie française,” died at Avignon in 1615. To the right is the
road leading up to the *Palace of the Popes, the church of *N. D. des
Domes, and the promenade, *“au Rochers des Doms;” which, with the
ramparts, compose the principal sights of Avignon. The concierge of the
palace lives just within the entrance. Fee for party, 1 fr. Opposite
gate is the Conservatoire de Musique, built in 1610 for a mint. The
churches are closed between 12 and 2. The Musées are open to the public
on Sundays between 12 and 4.
[Headnote: AVIGNON PALACE.]
The present +Palace+, commenced by Benedict XII. in 1336, and finished
by Gregory XI. in 1370, is an ugly huge structure, consisting of plain
walls 100 ft. high and 14 thick, strengthened by long ungainly
buttresses. Above the entrance, composed of a low archway, are the arms
of Clement VI.; and higher up, on two oriel turrets, the balcony from
which the Popes blessed the people. Within the gate is the Cour
d’Honneur, a vast quadrangular space between flat walls, pierced by from
3 to 4 stories of windows, not on the same level nor of the same size.
From the court ascend the Escalier d’Honneur, a groined staircase, of
which the steps were formerly of marble, to the Salle Consistoriale
d’Hiver, with an elegantly-groined roof. Before this hall was divided
into two, it was 52 ft. high, 65½ wide, and 170 long. From it we enter
the Salle d’Armes, with mural paintings by Simone Memmi of Sienna.
Ascending higher the grand staircase, we pass on the left the small
window for the Spies, and then go along a narrow lobby tunnelled in the
wall, to a succession of large bare halls, the Galerie de Conclave, the
Salle des Gardes, the Salle de Reception, and then enter the Tour St.
Jean, containing the Chapelle du Saint-Office, or the chapel of the
+Inquisition+, with mural paintings. In the story immediately below is
the chapel of the Popes. From the Tour St. Jean, after passing through a
large hall, we enter an octagonal room, gradually narrowing towards the
centre, till it forms a chimney-tower, called the Tour Strapade. Some
say this was the torture room; but it is evidently more suited for a
kitchen, which in all probability it was. Adjoining is the Glacière,
into whose underground cellars, now built up, the democrats of 1791
flung the bodies of 60 men and women they had murdered. From this we
enter again the Place d’Honneur by the Tour Trouillas, in which Rienzi
was imprisoned five years, bound to a chain fixed to the roof of his
cell. During the time of the Popes, from 1305 to 1234, and till 1793,
the half of Avignon was occupied by ecclesiastical edifices, which
tolled daily 300 bells, and had among them a daily succession of
religious processions.
[Headnote: ROCHER DES DOMS. CATHEDRAL.]
From the palace the road leads up to the highest part of the town, the
+Rocher des Doms+; commanding a magnificent view, and laid out as a
public garden, with in the centre a statue of Jean Althen, who
introduced, in 1766, the culture of the “garance,” the _Rubia
tinctoria_, now superseded, for the dyeing of red. From this terrace a
stair leads down to the Rhône near the Bridge Bénézet (see page 63). In
the middle of the river is the Ile de Barthelasse, and on the other side
are the Tour de Philippe le Bel, the town of Villeneuve, and above it
the Fort St. André. On the promenade is the Cathedral
+Notre-Dame-des-Doms+, 194 feet above the Rhône, approached by a stair
called the Pater, because originally it had as many steps as there are
words in the Lord’s Prayer. This church has undergone many changes, and
belongs to various periods. The portal and lower part of the tower are
of the 10th cent., and are due to Fulcherius. The nave is two centuries
later. The apse was added in 1671. The most remarkable part of the
structure is the cupola, terminating in an octagonal lantern, and
supported on pendentive arches. It bears traces of frescoes painted in
1672. In the sanctuary is the marble throne used by the Popes, in the
sacristy the Gothic mausoleum of Jean XXII., and in one of the side
chapels the tomb of Benoit XII. In the third chapel (right hand) is a
Madonna in white marble, by Pradier. The sacristan is generally in the
small room next the main entrance. Fee, ½ fr. for showing the church and
the tomb.
Now return to the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville. At the foot or south end a
tram-car leaves every ¼ to the Pont d’Avignon station on the other side
of the Rhône, 2 sous; and another to St. Lazare at the eastern end of
the town near the cemetery, 2 sous. An omnibus starts every hour from
the corner of the theatre for Villeneuve, where it stops at the east end
of the church. Fare both ways, 4 sous.
[Headnote: ST. AGRICOL. MUSÉE CALVET.]
In the “Place” the principal edifice is the +Hôtel de Ville+, built in
1862, on the site of the Palais Colonna, 14th cent, of which all that
remains is the handsome belfry called Jacquemard and his wife, from the
two figures which strike the hours. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the
theatre, built in 1847. Behind is the church of +St. Agricol+, 1340, the
patron saint of Avignon. To the right on entering is the tomb of the
painter Pierre Mignard, d. 4th April 1725, aged 86, and third chapel on
same side is a virgin and child in wood by Coysevox. To the left of the
entrance is an ancient and elegant marble baptismal font. At the foot of
the short street St. Agricol, in the Rue Calade, is the Oratoire, built
in 1730. At No. 65 of the Rue Calade is the +Musée Calvet+, containing a
valuable collection of art treasures open to the public on Sundays from
12 to 4, and a library and reading-room open every day except Sunday.
Against the wall of the inner court is the tomb of the donor of this
museum, Claud François Calvet, d. 25th July 1810, in his 82d year. On
the right is the monument erected by Sir Charles Kelsall in 1823 to
Laura de Sade, dead of smallpox in 1348, and buried in the church of the
Cordeliers (see p. 62). On the other side is the tomb of the military
strategist Folard, a native of Avignon. In the outer court, and in the
rooms and passages on the ground-floor, are Roman altars, monuments,
milestones, torses, amphoræ, and 170 Latin inscriptions, found in the
neighbourhood, but chiefly from Orange and Vaison (p. 53). Among the
sculptures in relief, one represents a Roman chariot drawn by two horses
with their hoofs shod. There are 27 Greek inscriptions, 3d or 4th cent.,
from Venice. The statuary and sculpture of the Middle Ages and the
Renaissance have been gathered principally from the suppressed churches
and convents. The most noticeable are: the mausoleums of Pope Urbain V.,
of Cardinals Lagrange and Brancas, and of Marshal Palice. Within
railings are: Cassandra by Pradier, a faun by Brian, and a bather by
Esparcieux, all in the finest white marble. Upstairs is a valuable
collection of Roman glass and bronzes, and 20,000 coins and medals,
including a complete set of the seals and medals of the Popes during
their residence at Avignon, and the seal used by the Inquisition while
here. There are nearly 500 pictures, and a collection of drawings,
including the original sketches of Horace Vernet. Most of the pictures
have the artists’ names affixed. Those in the great hall are by Albano,
Bassano, Berghem, Bloemen, Bourdon, Canaletto, A. Carracci, Caravaggio,
Châlons, Coypel, Credi, David, *Eckout (crucifixion), Sasso Ferrati,
F. Floris, Gericault, Girodet, Gros, Holbein, Lomi, Meel, P. and
N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, Poussin, Euysdael, Salvator Rosa,
Teuiers jun., Veronese, Vigée-Lebrun, and Zurbaran. In the small room
are the paintings by Claude-Joseph, Horace and Carle Vernet, with a few
by Paul Huet. The marble busts of Horace and Carle are by Thorwaldsen.
In the centre of an inner room, containing the medals and engravings, is
the famous ivory crucifixion, 27 inches long, of one piece, excepting
the arms, a chef-d’œuvre of the sculptor Guillermin in 1659. It is said
that Canova stood in ecstasy over this delicate achievement in art.
Continuing down the R. Calade to the other side of the R. Petrarque or
de la République, we have on the right the Museum of Natural History in
the church St. Martial, 15th cent. [Headnote: REQUIEN.] The greater part
of the specimens were bequeathed by M. Requien, d. 1851, and of them the
most interesting are those connected with the neighbourhood, such as the
flamingo and beaver of the Rhône, and the fossils from Aix. In the
eastern continuation of the R. Calade, at No. 62 R. des Lices, is the
Collége +Saint Joseph+, containing within its grounds all that remains
(the belfry and piece of the north aisle) of the church of the
Cordeliers; in which Laura was buried. The aisle has been repaired, and
is now used as a chapel. Visitors are freely admitted. It is to the left
of the entrance. Of the tomb there are no vestiges, having been
destroyed along with the church by an infuriated mob in 1791. On the E.
side of the R. Petrarque, by the narrow R. Prévot, is the church of +St.
Dedier+, 1355, containing, in first chapel right from entrance, a relief
in marble representing Christ bearing his cross, executed by Francesco
in 1481 at the request of King René. Opposite, over second arch, 36 ft.
above the floor, is a stone pulpit with a sculptured pendant. The grave
of St. Bénézet is under a plain slab in the middle of the nave, in front
of the high altar. Near St. Dedier is the Hôtel Crillon, 17th cent.; and
to the east of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Pierre
(9 in plan), 1520, with an elaborately-sculptured door and pulpit. The
pictures about the high altar are by N. Mignard, J. and P. Parrocel, and
Simon de Châlons. From the S.E. corner of the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville,
the R. des Marchands and its continuation the Rues Saunerie and
Carréterie, lead to the Porte St. Lazare, with, to the right, the town
+hospital+ (7 in plan), having a frontage of 192 yards, built in the
last century on the site of the hospital of St. Martha, founded in 1354.
Here, outside the town-walls to the right, then by a broad road to the
left, is the Cemetery. The Protestant division is on the right side of
the entrance. [Headnote: J. S. MILL.] In a corner at the end of a short
avenue of pine trees is the white marble monument to John Stuart Mill,
b. 20th May 1806, d. 7th May 1873. In the same grave is interred Harriet
Mill, his beloved wife, who died at Avignon in the Hôtel de l’Europe,
Nov. 3, 1858. A touching epitaph, recounting her virtues, occupies the
whole surface of the top slab. From the Porte St. Lazare, a walk may be
taken between the ramparts and the Rhône down to the bridge built in
1184, partly in the style of the Pont-du-Gard, by the shepherd, saint,
and architect, +Bénézet+, who before had constructed one over the
Durance at Maupas. This bridge, which stood 100 years, was 2952 ft. long
and 13 wide, on 19 arches, of which four still remain.
On the second arch is the chapel of St. Nicolas, in which the relics
of St. Bénézet were kept till removed to the church of St. Dedier.
[Headnote: VILLENEUVE-LES-AVIGNON.]
+Avignon to Villeneuve.+
Every ¼, a tram crosses the bridge for the Pont d’Avignon station, while
every hour an omnibus crosses for +Villeneuve-les-Avignon+, pop. 3100,
2½ m. from the “Place,” or 1¼ m. from the Pont station. Near the parish
church, 14th cent., is the Hospital, containing, in the chapel to the
left, the mausoleum of Innocent VI., under a lofty
elaborately-sculptured canopy, rising in pinnacles to the roof. Upstairs
is the picture gallery, in two rooms. The most remarkable picture
belongs to the 15th or 16th cent., painted on wood, and represents two
subjects, Purgatory and the Judgment Day, apparently by two different
artists. Although stiff, the design is admirable, and all the heads,
even the smallest, are carefully executed. But the gem is the most
charming and bewitching portrait by Mignard of Mme. de Ganges attired as
a nun. She was born at Avignon in 1636, and when only 13 married the
Marquis de Castellane, with whom she frequented the court of Louis XIV.,
where she was called La Belle Provençale. After her husband’s death she
married the Marquis de Ganges, with whom she returned to Avignon, where
her sorrows commenced, caused by the conduct of her two brothers-in-law,
the Abbot and the Chevalier de Ganges, whose unlawful passion she
steadfastly resisted. At last the exasperated abbot having made her
drink poison, she threw herself out of the window, and while lying on
the ground in the agony of death, the chevalier pierced her seven times
with his sword. These two monsters were condemned by the parliament to
be broken alive on the wheel. The other pictures in the collection by
Mignard are: Jesus before the Doctors, an Annunciation, and a St. Bruno.
Fee, 1 fr., given to the hospital. In the parish church, built in the
14th cent, by Cardinal Arnaud de Via, there is nothing extraordinary.
Near it are the ruins of the Chartreuse-du-Val-de-Bénédiction, and on an
eminence Fort André, now inhabited as a walled village. The omnibus for
Avignon starts every hour at the hour, from the apsidal end of the
parish church of Villeneuve.
Avignon is very much exposed to different winds, especially the Mistral,
yet perhaps they are necessary, for, according to the adage, “Avenio
ventosa, cum vento fastidiosa, sine vento venenosa,” the odours from the
drains in some of the streets being very offensive.
Till July 26, 1793, Avignon belonged to the Papal See, when it was
forcibly taken possession of by the Republican army under General
Cartaux, who owed his victory to the skill of his captain of artillery,
the young commandant Napoleon, who afterwards remained nearly a month in
this town for the establishment of his health, in No. 65 Rue Calade,
opposite the Musée Calvet, where he wrote “Le Souper de Beaucaire.”
[Headnote: AVIGNON TO NÎMES. L’ISLE.]
+Avignon to Nîmes.+
Avignon is 1½ hour or 15½ miles N.E. from Nîmes by rail, starting from
the Pont-d’Avignon station on the west side of the Rhône. Those wishing
to visit the Pont-du-Gard on the way should take their tickets for the
Pont-du-Gard station, changing carriages at Remoulins. If with luggage,
it is better to take the tickets only to Remoulins; where, without loss
of time on arriving, take other tickets to the Pont-du-Gard, leaving the
luggage behind. Time will generally be saved by returning from the Pont
to Remoulins on foot, about 3 m. by the road, but 5 m. by the rail. See
Map, p. 56. For Nîmes see p. 101, and for the Pont-du-Gard see p. 104.
Consult the “Indicateur des Chemins de Fer du Lyon” before starting.
[Headnote: L’ISLE. FONTAINE DE VAUCLUSE.]
+Avignon to Vaucluse by L’Isle.+
From Avignon the Fontaine de Vaucluse is 18 m. eastward, by the village
of Isle, on the line to Cavaillon. L’Isle, pop. 7000, a village on the
Sorgues, with decorated church rebuilt in the 17th cent. Handsome
reredos over high altar and several good paintings. The Tour d’Argent
dates from the 11th cent. At the station the omnibuses of the Isle
hotels, Petrarque et Laure and St. Martin, await passengers and take
them to Vaucluse and back for 4 frs. each. From the village of Vaucluse,
pop. 600, take for the fountain the road on the right bank of stream,
but for the house and garden of Petrarch take the left side, crossing
the bridge. On the left side, against a cliff near the cloth mill, is a
small house on the site of Petrarch’s, of which it is a copy. Before it,
is still a piece of what was Petrarch’s garden. On the other side of the
Sorgue is a cigar-paper mill. There is a little hotel at Vaucluse, the
Hôtel Petrarch et Laure. Under a stupendous cliff 1148 feet high is the
source of the river Sorgue, the placid +Fontaine de Vaucluse+, about 30
yards in diameter-- “a mirror of blue-black water, so pure, so still,
that where it laps the pebbles you can scarcely say where air begins and
water ends.” During floods, however, the cavern being no longer able to
contain the increased volume, the water rushes over in a cascade into
the bed below. The poet’s modest house stood at the foot of the rock
crowned by the ruins of the castle in which lived his friend Cardinal
Philippe de Cabasole. Petrarch himself gives the following description
of the site:-- “On one side my garden is bounded by a deep river; on
another by a rugged mountain, a barrier against the noon-day heats, and
which never refuses, not even at mid-day, to lend me its friendly shade;
but the sweet air reaches me through all obstacles. In the distance a
surly wall makes me inaccessible to both man and beast. Figs, grapes,
walnuts, almonds--these are my delights. My table is also graced with
the fish that abound in my river; and it is one of my greatest pleasures
to watch the fishermen draw their nets, and to draw them myself. All
about me is changed. I once used to dress myself with care; now you
would believe me a labourer or a shepherd. My house resembles that of
Fabius or Cato. I have but a valet and a dog. The house of my servant
adjoins my own. I call him when I want him, and when I have no more need
of him he returns home.”
[Headnote: PETRARCH.]
On the 6th of April 1327 Francesco Petrarca saw in a church of Avignon
Laura the daughter of Audibert de Noves, for whom he conceived a
romantic but hopeless attachment. Incessantly haunted with the beautiful
vision of the fair Laura, he visited in succession the south of France,
Paris, and the Netherlands, and after an exile of eight months returned
to bury himself in the solitude of Vaucluse.
Vehicles are also hired at Avignon. Fare to Vaucluse and back, 12 to 18
frs.; time, 8 hours. Also for the Pont du Gard, same price.
20½ m. from Avignon by rail is Cavaillon (p. 66), whence a branch line
extends 20 m. E. to Apt, another line 27 m. S.E. to Pertuis on the
Marseilles and Grenoble line, and another 22½ m. S. to +Miramas+
(p. 76), between Arles and Marseilles. (See map, p. 66.)
[Headnote: APT.]
AVIGNON TO MANOSQUE BY APT.
40½ m. E. by rail from Avignon, by Cavaillon, is +Apt+, pop. 7000, on
the torrent Calavon, in a sheltered hollow surrounded by mountains and
calcareous cliffs. _Hotels:_ The *Louvre; des Alpes. The principal
industries are agriculture, pottery, and the making of preserved
fruits. Fruit to be glazed with sugar, as well as that on which the
sugar is to be crystallised, is allowed to soak from 2 to 8 months in
a strong solution of white sugar, in uncovered “terrines,” like small
basins. Fruits with thick rinds, such as oranges, are pricked before
being immersed. The best pottery (Bernard Croix) is near the station,
to the left on descending the hill. The clay, gray and reddish, is in
thick beds close to the establishment, and resembles that of
Vallauris, near Cannes, in its power of resisting fire, and is
therefore principally used for the manufacture of kitchen pottery. M.
Croix has added artistic pottery and dinner and tea services, of which
the prices are extremely low. Opposite is the establishment of L. A.
Esbérard, who confines himself almost exclusively to kitchen
pottery.
The parish church of St. Anne dates from the 11th cent. To the left on
entering is the chapel of St. Anne, under a low octagonal domed tower.
Below the altar is a crypt, 10th cent., said to contain the bones of
the mother of Mary. Round about the town are pleasant walks, of which
many are shaded with Oriental plane trees. Coach daily to Manosque
(_Hotel:_ Eymon), 26 m. E., passing Céreste, 5¼ m. E., and Reillanne,
on the top of a hill, 5 m. farther. Manosque is on the rail between
Marseilles and Grenoble. (See maps, pages 26 and 66.)
+Cavaillon to Miramas+, 22½ m. S. (see map, p. 66), across a fertile
plain, with vineyards and groves of olive, almond, and apricot trees.
+Cavaillon+ (pop. 8000). _Inns:_ Parrocel; Teston. Omnibus at station.
Cavaillon is a pleasant town, intersected by avenues, and situated on
the Durance at the base of great limestone cliffs. It possesses an
ancient triumphal arch and a cathedral dating from the 12th and 13th
cents., with a cloister of the 12th. Excellent melons are grown in the
neighbourhood. 4¼ m. S. from Cavaillon is +Orgon+ (pop. 3000. _Inns:_
Paris; Poste), on the Durance. 11 m. farther S. is +Salon+ (pop. 7100.
_Inns:_ Poste; Croix de Malte), on the canal Craponne. This town,
dealing largely in first-class olive oil, has still remnants of its
old ramparts: a church, St. Michel, of the 13th cent., another, St.
Laurent, of the 14th, and a castle of the same date. In the town is a
fountain to the memory of Adam de Craponne, the engineer of the canal.
(For Miramas, see p. 75.)
[Map: The Mouths of the Rhone]
[Headnote: TARASCON. MARTHA’S TOMB.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{474}{63}
+TARASCON+, pop. 11,000. _Hotels:_ At the foot of the station stairs,
the Luxembourg; in the town, the Empereurs. Junction with branch to
Nîmes, 17 m. W., and 31 m. farther Montpellier. Below the station is a
large hospital for old men and orphans, founded in 1761 by Clerc
Molière. Tarascon is an unimportant town on the Rhône, opposite
Beaucaire, and connected with it by a chain bridge 1450 feet long. In
the church of St. Martha, built in the 12th cent., is an ancient crypt,
just under the spire, with the tomb of Martha, the sister of Lazarus,
whose mortal remains are said to repose here under the peaceful-looking
marble effigy which marks the spot. The tradition of the place says she
had come with her maid from Aix, at the request of the inhabitants, to
kill a terrible dragon with a body as thick as a bull’s, and having
succeeded, the inhabitants, out of gratitude to her, after her death
buried her in this place. A few steps from the church, by the side of
the river, rises the massive strong square castle, begun in 1400 and
finished by the Roi René, now used as a prison. On the opposite side of
the river, overlooking Beaucaire, are the more picturesque ruins of the
castle of Montmorency, whose adjoining garden forms one of the many
promenades of the people of Beaucaire. Beaucaire is a poor town with
poor houses. The formerly famous fair, commencing on July 1, has become
now of little importance. It is held in the broad avenue between the
castle and the Rhône.
[Headnote: ST. REMY. LES BAUX.]
9½ m. east from Tarascon by rail is +St. Remy+, pop. 6800. _Inn:_ Hôtel
du Cheval Blanc, a comfortable house, where carriages can be hired for
Les Baux, 6 m. S.W., 10 frs. Also for Arles by Les Baux and Mont-Majour,
19 m. distant, 24 frs. A mile from the Hôtel Cheval Blanc, by the high
road, stood the ancient Glanum, one of the commercial stations of the
Phœnician traders from Marseilles, before it fell into the possession of
the Romans, who have left here two remarkable monuments, of which the
more perfect consists of an open square tower standing on a massive
pedestal, and surmounted by a peristyle of ten columns surrounding two
statues representing the parents of Sextus and Marius, of the family of
the Julii, by whom it was erected. It is 50 ft. high; the faces of the
statues look to the north. The sculpture on the north side of the
pedestal represents a cavalry fight; the south, “sacrificing;” the west,
a combat between infantry; and the east, which is the most dilapidated,
“Victory crowning a wounded soldier.” Alongside stands a triumphal arch,
of which the most perfect portions are the coffered panellings of the
soffit.
6 m. S.W. from St. Remy is +Les Baux+, the ancient Castrum de Baucis,
pop. 100. _Inn:_ Monte Carlo. The castle town of Les Baux, commenced in
485, occupies a naked mountain of yellow sandstone, worn away by nature
into bastions and buttresses, and coigns of vantage, sculptured by
ancient art into palaces and chapels, battlements and dungeons. Now art
and nature are confounded in one ruin. Blocks of masonry lie
cheek-by-jowl with masses of the rough-hewn rock; fallen cavern vaults
are heaped round fragments of fan-shaped spandrel and clustered column
shaft; the doors and windows of old pleasure rooms are hung with ivy and
wild fig tapestry; while winding staircases start midway upon the cliff
and lead to vacancy. High overhead, suspended in mid-air, hang
chambers--lady’s bower or poet’s singing room--now inaccessible, the
haunt of hawks and swallows. Within this rocky honeycomb-- “cette ville
en monolithe,” as it has been aptly called, for it is literally scooped
out of one mountain block--live a few poor people, foddering their
wretched goats at carved piscina and stately sideboards, erecting their
mud-beplastered hovels in the halls of feudal princes. From Les Baux
road to Fontvieille, 7 m.; whence rail to Mont-Majour and Arles (see
map, page 66).
[Headnote: ARLES.]
{483}{54}
+ARLES+, pop. 26,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; Forum; near each other in the
Place du Forum. Arles is situated on the Rhône, near the Camargue, in a
marshy place, as its original name, Arelas, from the Celtic words,
“Ar lach,” damp place, indicates. It is said to have been founded 900
years before Marseilles, 700 years before Rome, and 1500 before the
birth of Christ. The ramparts and walls rising from the public gardens
and the Boulevard des Aliscamps are chiefly the work of the Emperor
Constantine, who came to Arles with his family and mother, Saint Helena.
He built by the side of the Rhône a superb palace, called afterwards
“de la Trouille,” because opposite a ferry-boat, which was pulled or
dragged from one side of the river to the other. Of this palace little
more remains than the attached tower La Trouille, constructed of
alternate layers of brick and stone. On the 7th August 312 his wife
Faustina presented him with a son, Constantine II., who succeeded his
father in May 357. He commenced the Forum, but was shortly after killed
in battle defending himself against his brother Constance, who usurped
the throne and finished the Forum. All that remains of this formerly
splendid edifice are the two Corinthian columns, with part of the
pediment encrusted into the wall of the Hôtel du Nord. It occupied the
site of the Place du Forum, called also the Place des Hommes, because
labourers and men-servants used to be hired in this “Place.”
In the Place de la République is the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1675 on
the site of the Roman baths constructed by the Emperor Augustus. The
spacious vaults under the Hôtel du Nord formed probably a part of these
baths, although in later times they seem to have been used as an
ossuary.
[Map: Arles]
Almost adjoining the Hôtel de Ville is the church of St. Anne, now the
Archæological Museum, with a collection of inscriptions, sarcophagi,
urns, statues, columns, friezes, altars, and tombstones, those of the
Pagans having the letters D.M., _Diis manibus_. Also some of the long
lead pipes, with the name of the plumber, “C. Canthius Porthinus fac.,”
which helped to bring water from the fountain at the foot of the hill on
which Baux stands. At the inner end, right hand, is a torse of Mithras
of white Pharos marble, 3 ft. 2 inches high, found in 1598 on the site
of the Roman Circus. A serpent is coiled round the body, and between the
coils are the signs of the Zodiac. In the opposite corner is an altar in
Carrara marble to the good goddess “Bonae-Deae,” found under the church
La Major. On the front face is a garland of oak leaves and acorns, and 7
inches distant from each other two human ears. Near it is a good head of
Augustus, and a mutilated one of Diana. About the centre of the room is
a recumbent figure of Silenus, with a wine skin under his arm.
In the centre of the “Place” is the monolith obelisk, 49 ft. high, hewn
by the Romans from the quarries of Esterel. It stood originally in the
Circus at the S.W. corner of the town; but of it no vestiges remain.
[Headnote: ST. TROPHIME.]
Opposite St. Anne is the cathedral of St. Trophime, consecrated on the
17th May 626, and rebuilt in the 9th cent. The portal, erected in 1221,
consists of a semicircular arch resting on six columns, behind which are
statues of apostles and saints separated by pilasters. In the tympanum
is Christ, the judge of the world, with the symbols of the Evangelists.
In the interior the door on the S. side of the choir leads out to the
cloister, of which the N. side belongs to the 9th, the south to the
16th, the east to the 13th, and the west to the 14th cent.
Passing from the cloister into the street, and turning to the left, we
arrive at the Theatre, commenced during the dominion of the Greeks, and
finished before the Christian era. In the centre of this grand ruin,
originally 335 ft. in its greatest diameter, stand two Corinthian
columns 30 ft. high, and the base of other two, which formed part of the
proscenium. Opposite them is the semicircular space for the spectators,
with still many of the stone seats. The Venus of Arles, one of the most
valuable statues in the Louvre, was found here. The theatre is open to
the public, but the keeper endeavours to attach himself to strangers.
[Headnote: AMPHITHEATRE.]
A short way N.E. is the far grander and more imposing +Amphitheatre+ or
Les Arènes, said to have been commenced by the father of Tiberius Nero,
B.C. 46. It is elliptic, 459 ft. long and 132 wide, surrounded by a
double wall 60 ft. high, each with two stages of arches, and in each
stage 60 arches. From around the arena rise 43 tiers of stone seats,
capable of containing 23,438 spectators. The stone steps leading up to
them were 1½ ft. high and 2 ft. 3 inches long. There were besides above
150 rooms for the gladiators and men connected with the theatre, and 100
dens for wild beasts. The three towers were added by the Saracens in the
8th cent. Bull-fights are given in the building, when a multitude of
spectators, as in the time of the Romans, fill the galleries. A splendid
view of the amphitheatre, the city, and of the commencement of the delta
of the Rhône, is had from the western tower. The entrance into the
amphitheatre is by the north gate. The doorkeeper lives in a house a
little to the left of the gate. This grand ruin should, if possible, be
visited by moonlight; yet during the day the beautiful masonry is more
easily examined. It is the great sight in Arles, and it is better to
omit all the others than to do this one hurriedly.
The Camargue or Delta of the Rhône, commencing at the outskirts of
Arles, is a triangular plain of 180,000 acres extending to the
Mediterranean, bounded on the west by the Petit Rhône, and on the east
by the Grand Rhône. It contains small villages and large farms, with
extensive vineyards and grazing ground for cattle, sheep, and horses. It
is best visited by the steamboat sailing between Arles and Port St.
Louis on the mouth of the great Rhône. (See p. 72, and map, p. 66.)
[Headnote: ELYSEI CAMPI. TROPHIMUS.]
S.E. above the Promenade is the church of St. Cesaire, 9th cent., on the
site of a temple of Jupiter. From this to go to Alyscamps, walk down the
Boulevard Alyscamps to the canal Craponne, where turn to the left. The
first ruin passed is an old entrance into what was the domain of the
monastery of St. Cesaire. The Avenue of Alyscamps is lined on each side
by 33 large stone coffins with lids, and 120 smaller coffins without
lids. This, the Elysei Campi, an ancient Roman cemetery, is now divested
of all its valuables and statues, of which a few are in the museum. As
J. C.Himself is said to have appeared during the consecration of the
cemetery, it was believed that at the resurrection it would be
especially favoured by Him; hence the efforts made by so many to bury
their friends here. It is said that up to the 12th cent. coffins with
their dead, and money for the funeral expenses, floated down the Rhône,
of their own accord, to be buried in this privileged spot. At the end of
the avenue is the church of St. Honorat, on the site of the chapel
founded by Trophimus the Ephesian, one of St. Paul’s converts, who was
sent to Arles to preach the gospel and to put an end to human
sacrifices. Among the first things he is said to have done was to
consecrate the Alyscamps and transform it thus from a heathen into a
Christian burial-place, and add to it a little chapel. An old Arles
writer alleges on his own authority that Trophimus dedicated this chapel
to Mary, who was then alive. After labouring 36 years in this diocese he
died on the 29th of November 94, and was buried in the little chapel he
himself had built. Among the successors of Trophimus were Ambrose in
160, who remained here 20 years; Augustine in 220, who died 10 years
afterwards; Jerome in 230, who also died 10 years afterwards; Marcien in
252, the originator of the Novatien sect; and St. Cyprien in 253. Saint
Virgil, one of the successors, founded in 601 the church of St. Honorat
beside the chapel of Trophimus. The present church dates only from the
12th to the 14th cent. The best and oldest part, excepting the
foundations, is the apsidal termination, which is semicircular, with 4
pilasters and a small window in the centre to give light to the
officiating priest. Over it rises a neat octagonal belfry in two arcaded
stages. Under the chancel is a small crypt. The keeper calls a small
chapel at the left hand corner of the chancel, the chapel of Trophimus.
[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.]
The Picture Gallery, or the Musée Reattu, is at No. 11 R. Grand Prieure,
near the Tour Trouille. The house and pictures were bequeathed to the
town by a cousin of the painter Reattu, b. at Arles 1760, d. 1833. On
picture 119 are portraits of himself, wife, and two cousins. Next the
picture gallery is the school of design.
Branch line from Arles to Fontvieille, 7 m. E., passing Mont-Majour 4 m.
E. Fontvieille is 7 m. S.W. from Les Baux by a good road. Junction at
Arles with line to Aigues-Mortes, 36 m. S.W., and to Montpellier, 58 m.
S.W.; Cette is 17 m. farther. (See map, p. 66.)
[Headnote: MONT-MAJOUR.]
4 m. eastwards by rail from Arles are the ruins of the castle and abbey
of Mont-Majour, all in a good state of preservation, excepting the
domestic buildings, constructed in 1786. The concierge lives in a house
near the station. Fee, 1 fr. He generally shows first the church, 11th
cent., and the spacious crypt below, 9th cent. Adjoining the church are
the cloisters, 11th cent., of the same kind as those of St. Trophime,
but more interesting and more perfect, and containing the tombs of some
of the counts of Anjou. Next is the beautiful square dungeon tower,
nearly as perfect as when erected in 1374. It is 262 ft. high, is
ascended by 137 steps, and commands a wide prospect. From this, a stair
leads down the face of the hill to the chapel and cell of St. Trophimus,
principally hewn in the soft limestone cliff. Standing apart at the base
of the hill is St. Croix, dedicated in 1019, consisting of four
semicircular sides, crowned with semidomes projecting from a square
tower crowned with a kind of pyramid spire. At Fontvieille (Hôtel du
Commerce) are important quarries of soft calcareous sandstone.
[Headnote: PORT SAINT LOUIS.]
+Arles to Port Saint Louis+, at the mouth of the Great Rhône, 25 m. S.
by steamer on the Great Rhône. Time, 5 hrs. Fare, 2 frs. Railway
unfinished (see map, p. 66). The steamboat passes by an important part
of the Camargue with large vineyards, rendered very fertile by
irrigation, the water being forced up from the river by steam engines.
Cattle, sheep, and horses are reared on the tufts of coarse grass
which cover the more arid portions. The population is so sparse that
not a village is seen during the whole journey. (See also p. 70.)
+Port Saint Louis+ (Hôtel Saint Louis), 6½ m. W. from Port Bouc,
consists of a straggling village between the Rhône and the basin of
the canal constructed to enable vessels to avoid the bar of the Rhône.
This canal is 2½ m. long, 196 ft. wide, and 22 ft. deep. To understand
the geography of this desolate flat region of land and water, exposed
to every wind, it is necessary to ascend the “tour Saint Louis,”
whence the plain, intersected by the Rhône and numerous canals,
appears literally like a map. The only villages seen in the vast
expanse are Fos, on a hill, and near it the Port Bouc.
Great expense has been incurred to make Port St. Louis a convenient
place for shipping, and attract to it some of the commerce from
Marseilles.
23 m. S.W. from Arles, and separated from Port St. Louis by the great
Etang Valcarès, is the port called Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, or
simply Les Saintes. The parish church, 12th cent., surrounded by
fortifications, contains the tombs of the Maries and some good
sculpture.
For +Arles to Port Bouc+, 29 m. S., see p. 76. The steamer sails from
the S.W. corner of Arles (see map, page 66).
[Headnote: ST. GILLES. LUNEL.]
11¼ m. W. by rail from Arles is +St. Gilles+, pop. 7000. Hôtel du
Cheval-Blanc. A poor and ancient town on the canal of Aigues-Mortes,
near the Petit Rhône. The abbey church, founded in 1116, is considered
a good specimen of Byzantine architecture. The façade consists of a
bald wall with a plain tower on each side. Between these towers are
three semicircular recessed portals, below an entablature resting on
two single and two double columns. The capitals are Corinthian, but
the pedestals (considerably effaced) consist of lions and grotesque
animals in uncouth positions. Behind them, on the piers of the arches
of the portals, stand in bold relief statues of apostles and saints,
separated from each other by pilasters. The interior, consisting of a
nave and two aisles, is 290 ft. long, 88 wide, and 62 high. In the N.
aisle a stair of 33 steps leads down to the lower church, with
semicircular arches on short massive piers. From the centre 7 more
steps descend to the tomb of St. Gilles. All the characteristics of
this church are equally well represented in St. Trophime of Arles.
16¾ m. farther W., or 28 m. from Arles by rail, is +Lunel+, pop. 7300.
_Inns:_ Palais; Nord; Tapis-verd; none good. A town of narrow streets,
with a park and promenade by the side of the canal. The church is
constructed after the pattern of those of Carcassonne and Perpignan.
On the surrounding plain an inferior wine is grown. The first-class
vineyards, producing the generous white wines from 17° to 18°, are all
on the neighbouring gravelly eminences.
[Headnote: AIGUES-MORTES.]
8 m. S. by rail from Lunel is the more interesting town of
+AIGUES-MORTES+, “stagnant waters,” pop. 4300, 4 m. from the
Mediterranean, and 4 ft. above it, and connected with it by a
navigable canal. _Inn:_ Saint Louis. It is of great historical
interest, and is surrounded by the most perfect old embrasured wall in
France, built in the form of a parallelogram, 596 yds. long by 149
yds. broad. It is 36 ft. high, and is flanked by 15 towers. On the
western side rises the famous round tower of Constance, 96 ft. high
and 72 in diameter, containing two vaulted superimposed circular
chambers, used by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. as prisons for their
Protestant subjects of both sexes, who here suffered such cruelties
that the Dutch and Swiss Governments were roused to interfere in their
behalf, and even Frederic the Great is said to have interceded for
them, but in vain. From the platform at the top of this tower is the
highly interesting view of the flat country at the mouth of the Rhône,
whence the traveller may judge for himself whether the sea has, or has
not, receded from the town since the time of Saint Louis--we think
not. Both the tower of Constance and the walls are the work of Saint
Louis, who had a predilection for Aigues-Mortes, as he considered it
the most suitable place in his kingdom from which to embark for
Palestine. On 25th August 1248, after having heard mass in the church
Notre-Dame-des-Sablons (fronting his statue), he and his Queen
Marguerite sailed from Aigues-Mortes on their first expedition to
Palestine. On the 3d of July 1270 he again sailed from the same place;
and on that same year, on the anniversary day of his first expedition,
the 25th of August, he perished among the ruins of Carthage. 4 m. S.
from Aigues-Mortes by omnibus, or steamer by the canal, is the bathing
station of Port-Grau-du-Roi. _Inns:_ Pommier; Dubois (see map, page
66).
49 m. N. from Lunel by rail is Vigan. (See page 105.)
96½ m. W. from Marseilles, 43 m. W. from Arles, 31 m. S.W. from Nîmes,
and 15 m. S.W. from Lunel, is
[Headnote: MONTPELLIER.]
+MONTPELLIER+, on the sides and summit of an eminence 145 ft. above
the sea and 7 miles from it. Pop. 56,000. _Hotels:_ H. Nevet, the best
and most expensive, at the commencement of the Esplanade. On the same
side, only a little farther up, is a block of handsome buildings
containing the Public Library, closed on Sundays and Thursdays, and
the Picture Gallery or Musée Fabre, open on Sundays and Mondays.
Adjoining is the Lycée.
In the Place de la Comédie, near the Esplanade, is the H. du Midi, the
next best hotel. In the Grande Rue, the H. Cheval Blanc, frequented by
commercial men. Opposite the station is the H. de la Gare. In the fine
broad street, the Rue Maguelone, leading from the station to the Place
de la Comédie, is the H. Maguelone, second class. Their omnibuses
await passengers.
Temple Protestant near station, in the Rue Maguelone. Telegraph Office
in the Boulevard de la Comédie. Post in the Boulevard Jeu-de-Paume.
From the Esplanade omnibus runs to Castelnau. From near the Place de
la Comédie coach to Mauguio. From the Boulevard de Blanquerie, below
the prison, coach to Claret and St. Hippolyte. (See map, p. 66.)
[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS.]
The most modern part of the town is the Rue Maguelone, leading from
the station to the Esplanade, a delightful promenade bounded by the
citadel. At the N.W. angle of the Esplanade a stair leads down to a
line of boulevards, passing up by the “Hôpital Général” to the Botanic
Gardens, the earliest institution of this kind in France, founded in
the reign of Henri IV., and for some years under the direction of the
famous botanist De Candolle. It contains an area of 9 acres, divided
into three parts: at the N. end is a nursery; at the S., in a hollow,
surrounded by trees, the botanical part; and between these two
divisions the arboretum. Opposite the Botanic Gardens is the once
famous +École de médecine+, said to have been founded by Arab
physicians under the patronage of the Counts of Montpellier. It now
occupies the old bishops’ palace, built in the 14th cent., with
additions in the 17th. At the entrance are bronze statues of Barthez,
1734-1806, and La Peyronie, 1678-1747. Within the entrance are busts
of the most celebrated professors and divines connected with the
college and the church of Montpellier. In the same building are also
valuable anatomical and pathological collections, and a library with
55,000 vols. Adjoining is the +Cathedral+ of St. Pierre, 14th and 15th
cents., but the choir is recent, though in the same style. White
marble statue of Mary and child by Canova.
Overlooking the Botanic Gardens is the beautiful promenade, the Place
du Peyrou, on an eminence at the western side of the town. In cold
weather invalids and nurses with their children frequent the lower
terrace of this “Place,” the promenade Basse du Midi. At the western
end of the Peyrou is the Château d’Eau, a hexagonal Corinthian
building, which receives and distributes through the town the water
brought from the fontaine de St. Clement, 5½ m. from Montpellier. The
aqueduct, which conveys the water across the valley from the opposite
hill, consists of two tiers of arches 70 ft. high and 2896 ft. long.
The gate at the end of the promenade was erected to commemorate the
victories of Louis XIV. Adjoining is the Palais de Justice, with
statues of Cambacérès and Cardinal Fleury. Eastwards, by crooked
streets, are the Mairie and the markets.
[Headnote: MUSÉE FABRE.]
A short way north from the Hôtel Nevet, by the Rues Ste. Foi and also
on the Esplanade, is a handsome modern edifice, comprising the +Musée
Fabre+, the Bibliothèque publique with 65,000 vols., and the
“Collection de la Société archéologique.” The Musée Fabre, open on
Sundays and Mondays and feast days, contains, among many works of
inferior merit, some good pictures by great artists, such as Berghem,
Fra Bartolommeo, P. C. Champaigne, Cuyp, L. David, G. Dow, Van Dyck,
Ghirlandajo, Girodet, Granet, Greuze, Metsu, Palma, P.Veronese,
Porbus, P. Potter, Poussin, Samuel Reynolds, Salvator Rosa, Rubens,
Ruysdael, Andrea del Sarto, D. Teniers, Terburg, Titian, and Zarg. The
library contains some curious MSS. connected with, the Stuarts, which
belonged to Prince Charles Edward.
Montpellier produces a lovely coloured wine with good bouquet, called
St. Georges d’Orgues. The manufacture of verdigris, the preparation of
preserved fruits, dye works, chemical works, and distilleries, are the
principal industries.
From the railway station, opposite the Hôtel de Nevet, a line extends
through the lagoon Pérols, covering a surface of 3000 acres, and
yielding annually 2000 tons of salt, to the port of Palavas, 5 m.
south (pop. 1000), with a beautiful beach. At the Palavas terminus is
the Casino hotel, and on the Canal the Hôtel des Bains and the
Restaurant Parisien. A cabine (bathing-house), including costume and
linen, costs 1 fr. Leave the train at the Plage station. 3 m. from
Montpellier, in the retired valley of the Mosson, is the mineral water
establishment of Foncaude. Water saline, unctuous, and sedative. Good
for indigestion and nervous disorders. 12½ m. north from Montpellier
is the Pic du Loup, rising from the village St. Mathieu (pop. 500) to
the height of 680 ft., commanding an extensive view, and having on the
top a chapel visited by pilgrims.
From Montpellier a line extends 43½ m. W. to Faugères on the line from
Beziers to Capdenac by Rodez. (See map, page 27.)
[Headnote: FRONTIGNAN. CETTE.]
109½ m. from Marseilles and 4½ from Cette is +Frontignan+, pop. 3000.
Possessing 570 acres of vineyards producing rich amber-coloured,
luscious, and spirituous wines, made principally from the clairette
and picardan grapes. The neighbouring marshes yield annually about
50,000 tons of salt.
114 m. from Marseilles is +Cette+, pop. 29,000. At this point the
Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon system joins the Chemins de Fer du
Midi, and consequently carriages are often changed here. For Cette to
Toulouse and Bordeaux, see Table “Bordeaux à Cette” in the “Indicateur
des Chemins de Fer du Midi.” Cette is 271 m. east from Pau, 266 from
Bordeaux, and 84 from Perpignan. Omnibuses and coaches await
passengers. _Hotels:_ Barrillon; Grand Galion; Bains; Souche. Cette
makes a pleasant halting-place. The best walk is to the top of Mt.
Setius, 590 ft. Ascend by the Rue d’Esplanade, and when at the highest
part of the Public Gardens take the road to the right. The view is
magnificent. In front is the Mediterranean, and behind Lake Thau with
its villages. At the base of the mountain is Cette, and beyond
Frontignan. The Port of Cette is protected by a breakwater 548 yds.
long, which encloses a harbour of 210 acres, furnished with two
jetties; the western, constructed by Vauban, is 656 yds. long, and the
eastern 548 yds. This busy port, besides having an extensive carrying
trade, has a large wine manufactory, where above 100,000 pipes of
imitations of all the well-known wines are made annually, by mixing
different wines with each other.
From the first bridge over the canal (not including the railway
bridge) a small steamer starts three times daily for Balaruc and Meze,
on Lake Thau. Meze, like Cette, is entirely devoted to the wine trade.
Balaruc has a bathing establishment, supplied by intensely saline
springs, resembling strong sea-water, temperature 125° Fahr. A quart
contains 106 grains of chloride of sodium, 13½ of the chloride of
magnesia, and a fraction of the chloride of copper, 15 grains of the
sulphate, and 13½ of the bicarbonate of lime. Pension, 8 to 9 fr., and
the bath treatment 4½ fr. additional. The Canal du Midi enters Lake
Thau at Les Onglous, 11 m. W. from Cette. (See map, page 27.)
[Headnote: MIRAMAS. PORT BOUC.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{503}{34}
+MIRAMAS+, pop. 900, south from the station at the head of the Étang
Chamas. At the station there are a small inn and a large plantation of
almond trees, which, when in flower, exhale a delightful perfume.
Passengers to Avignon by Cavaillon and L’Isle change carriages here
(p. 65). Also for Port Bouc, 16¼ m. south.
MIRAMAS TO PORT BOUC.
+Miramas to Port Bouc+ by rail through a flat plain (see map, p. 66).
The two most important towns passed on the way are: +Istres+, 6¼ m. from
Miramas station and 10 N. from Port Bouc, pop. 4000, founded in the 8th
cent. on Lake Olivier, and possessing still part of its ancient
ramparts. The principal industry is the manufacture of salt and of the
carbonate of soda. 13¼ m. from Miramas is +Fos+ (Fossae Marianae), pop.
1100, on a hill crowned with the ruins of a castle, 14th cent.
At the foot of the hill, by the side of the Arles canal, are large
tanks for the manufacture of salt. From Fos, other 3 miles south by
rail, or 16¼ miles altogether from the Miramas railway station, or 29
miles S. from Arles by the canal, is +Port Bouc+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_
near the stations of the railway and the canal steamer, the Hôtel du
Commerce; near the jetty, the Hôtel du Nord. Port Bouc, on the Étang
Caroute, near the entrance to the great lake, the Étang de Berre, is
an important fishing-station with a large and well-protected harbour.
At the end of the jetty is a fixed light, seen within a radius of
10 m. At the other side of the entrance is Fort Bouc with a massive
square tower in the centre and another lighthouse. About 7 miles west
from Port Bouc by the coast road is the Port of St. Louis, page 72.
(For Port Bouc to Martigues and Marseilles, see p. 118.)
+Port Bouc to Arles+, 29 m. S. by the canal steamboat; time, 5 hrs;
fare, 3 frs. The canal is 62 ft. wide and 8 deep. The embankments are
very solid, and along a great part of them extends the railway between
Arles and Saint Louis. The only town the canal passes is Fos, about
½ m. E. The Miramas railway passes it on the other side. Passengers
drop into the steamer from the farmhouses. The steamer moors at the
S.W. corner of Arles. (See p. 72, and map p. 66.)
[Headnote: SAINT CHAMAS.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{506½}{30½}
+SAINT CHAMAS+ (Sanctus Amantius), pop. 3000, about ½ m. from the
station. It is situated on the N. end of the Étang de Berre, and on
both sides of a short narrow ridge of soft sandstone pierced with
excavations. The Government have one of their most important powder
manufactories in this place. Hardly ½ m. E. from the Hôtel de Ville is
the Flavian Bridge, built by the Romans, across the stream Touloubre,
with at each end a kind of triumphal arch of 12 ft. span and about
22 ft. high. At each of the four corners is a grooved Corinthian
pilaster surmounted by a frieze and a projecting dentilled cornice.
On the top at each end stands a lion; the two on the east arch are
apparently ready to spring eastward, and the other two westward. The
bridge is in a state of perfect repair, but the sculpture and
inscription on the two arches over the entrances are slightly effaced.
The road to it is by the Hôtel de Ville and the parish church with a
rudely sculptured “Pieta” over the portal. The bridge is to the E. of
St. Chamas, and is well seen from the railway, especially when crossing
the viaduct of 49 interlaced arches, which carry the rail over the
little valley of the Touloubre. 8½ m. E. from St. Chamas is Berre
station. The town, pop. 2100, is directly south, on +Lake Berre+,
a sheet of water 14 m. long and 38 in circumference.
[Headnote: ROGNAC.]
{519½}{17½}
+ROGNAC+, pop. 900. Junction with rail to Aix, 16½ m. E., passing under
the Roquefavour aqueduct, 7½ m. E. The canal, which brings 200 cubic ft.
of water per second from the Durance to Marseilles and the neighbouring
plain, commences opposite Pertuis, directly north from Marseilles. It is
94 m. long, of which more than 15 are under ground; it has a fall of 614
ft., traverses, by 45 tunnels, 3 chains of limestone hills, and crosses
numerous valleys by aqueducts, of which the largest crosses the ravine
of the river Arc at Roquefavour. This aqueduct is 270 ft. high on three
tiers of arches, is 1312 ft. long, 44½ ft. wide at the base, and 14 ft.
wide at the water-way. It consists of 51,000 cubic yards of masonry, and
cost £151,394, while the cost of the whole canal from the Durance to the
sea, near Cape Croisette, a little to the east of Marseilles, has been
£2,090,000. A branch from the principal channel throws 198,000 gallons
per minute into the city, while five other ramifications fertilise by
irrigation the country around it. The canal water is purified in the
basins of Réaltort. The large reservoir for Marseilles is behind the
Palais de Longchamp. (See p. 114, and for the course of the canal, maps
pp. 66 and 123.)
To visit the aqueduct, take the road to the left from the station, pass
under the railway bridge, and then ascend partly by a steep path and
partly by steps to the house of the concierge.
[Headnote: AIX. HÔTEL DE VILLE. CATHEDRAL.]
16½ m. E. from Rognac, or 33 m. N. from Marseilles by Rognac, but only
18 m. N. by Gardanne, is +Aix+-en-Provence, pop. 29,000. _Hotels:_
Negre-Coste, the best, in the Grand Cours; at the east end of the
Cours, Mule-Noire, and near it at the Palais de Justice, the Hôtel du
Palais; at the station end of the Cours, the Louvre and the France; at
the baths, the Hôtel des Bains; opposite the Hôtel de Ville, the Hôtel
Aigle d’Or. Best cafés in the Cours René. Post and telegraph offices
in the street behind the Cours, or behind the division opposite the
Hôtel Negre-Coste. Aix, formerly the capital of Provence, was founded
120 B.C. by the Consul Sextius Calvinus around the thermal springs,
which he himself had discovered. The temperature of the water is 95°
F., and the ingredients, iron and iodine, the carbonates, sulphates,
and chlorides of soda and magnesia, together with an organic
bituminous matter strongly impregnated with glairine. The
establishment is situated at the extremity of the Cours Sextius.
Pension, 8½ frs. Each bath 1 fr. At the high end of the Cours René is
a statue, by David, of René of Anjou, “le bon Roi,” king of Naples,
Sicily, and Jerusalem; died in 1480 at the age of 72, and buried at
Angers, where he was born. He was endowed with every virtue, was a
poet, painter, and musician, and was skilled in medicine and
astronomy. During his reign in Aix the people were prosperous, and art
and science flourished. From the right of the statue streets lead up
to the principal square with a monument to Lodovico XV., the Palais de
Justice with statues of the jurists Portales and Siméon, and the
church of the Madeleine, built for the perpetual adoration of the
host. A little higher up are the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1640; the
Halle-aux-Grains, reconstructed in 1760 and adorned with bold and
spirited sculpture. Next the Hôtel de Ville is the great clock tower,
bearing the date 1512. In the centre of the court of the Hôtel de
Ville is a statue of Mirabeau, and on the staircase a white marble
statue of Marshal Villars, by Coustou. In the Hôtel de Ville is also
the public library with 100,000 vols. Among the MSS. is the prayer
book of King René, with illustrations said to have been done by
himself. No. 569 is a small 4to volume, with copies of letters written
by Queen Mary Stuart. The first 57 pages relate to her early history.
At page 645 commences a defence of her conduct, written by a warm
partisan of the queen. The street, ascending through the gateway of
the clock tower, leads to the university buildings, the palace of the
archbishop, and the Cathedral of +Saint Sauveur+, built in the 11th
cent., partly on the foundations of a temple to Apollo. The tower, 195
ft. high, was built in the 15th cent., and the chancel in 1285. The
façade was commenced in 1476, and the beautiful sculpture on the great
entrance door executed in 1503. It is generally covered by a plain
outer door. In the interior to the right is the Baptistery, an
octagonal chapel with six antique marble and two granite Corinthian
columns about 30 ft. high, each shaft being of one stone. The
ornamental sculpture on the panels and in the spandrels is by Puget.
On the same side are two triptychs, one by Crayer, “Mary worshipped by
Saints,” and the other by some artist of the Jean Van Eyck school,
representing in the centre Moses and the burning bush, with Mary up in
a clump of trees. On one wing is King René on his knees, attended by
the Magdalene, St. Maurice, and St. Anthony; and on the other wing is
the king’s second wife, Jeanne de Laval, attended by her patron
saints. On the outside of the shutters are the angel Gabriel and
Mary.
On each side of the chancel is an organ case, but only the one on the
left hand has pipes. Under each is a large tapestry dating from 1511,
representing scenes in the life of J. C. Both pieces are said to have
belonged to St. Paul’s of London. Among the relics the church
possesses are: the skull of St. Ursula, the arm of one of her 11,000
virgins presented by Nicolas V. in 1458, a rib of St. Sebastian
presented by King René, and three thorns from the crown of our
Lord.
[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.]
The last street at the S.E. end of the Cours René leads directly to
the church of St. Jean and the +Picture Gallery+ adjoining; free on
Sundays and Thursdays from 12 to 4. St. Jean was built in the 13th
cent. by the Princes of the house of Aragon for the order of the
Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. The spire is 220 ft. high. To the
left of the altar is the tomb of Raymond and wife, Comte de
Provence.
On the ground-floor of the picture gallery are sarcophagi,
inscriptions, and statues ancient and modern. Upstairs is a large
collection of paintings, water-colours, and drawings; but few have
either labels or numbers.
The “Biscotins” seen in the shop windows are round sweet biscuits
about the size and shape of walnuts. The better kind, “Gallissons,”
are flat and diamond shaped. The olive oil made in the farms around
Aix is reputed to have a very fine fruity flavour. The reason alleged
is--the trees being small the berries are gathered, or rather plucked,
by the hand before they are quite ripe. Where the trees are large, as
in the more favoured parts of the Riviera, the fruit must be allowed
to ripen to allow of its being shaken down by long poles. The trees
are pruned in circles, leaving an empty space in the centre.
[Headnote: RIANS. MEYRARGUES.]
(For the following see maps, pages 66 and 123.) Coach daily from the
“Cours” to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8 m. E. The
castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated near the
cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the culminating
point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire mountains.
+Rians+, pop. 2900, _Inn:_ Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive
trees and vineyards. Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the
railway 34½ m. N. from Marseilles, and 155½ S. from Grenoble, passing
Jouques, 7½ m. N., with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the
gorge of the Riaou, in which rise the copious springs of the
Bouillidous, which irrigate the fields and set in motion numerous
mills. 2 m. beyond Jouques is +Peyrolles+ (pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Hôtel du
Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of the Grand Sambiu,
2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old fortress is a
painting on wood attributed to King René.
+Meyrargues+ (pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Reynaud) is situated with its castle
in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers
from Rians.
[Headnote: DILIGENCES. BRANCH LINES.]
Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18 m. W., passing by La
Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14 m. W. Coach from
Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For Salon, see p. 66.) 5 m. N.E. from
Pelissanne is Lambesc.
Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the
best way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where
a coach awaits passengers for St. Cannat, 5 m. N.W., and Lambesc,
3½ m. farther. In the village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. de
la Vie, visited by pilgrims. +Lambesc+, 14 m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is
a pretty little town, agreeably situated at the foot of the hill
Berthoire. The manufactures of olive oil and silk form the principal
industries.
7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is +Gardanne+, pop.
3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to
Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See
under Carnoules, p. 142.)
From Rognac the train passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts at
Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½ m. S. from Rognac. 3¼ m. S.
from Vitrolles and 11¼ m. N. from Marseilles is Pas-des-Lanciers,
junction with line to Martigues (see p. 66), 12¾ m. E.
Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and 7 miles north
from Marseilles, is the station of +L’Estaque+, a village on the sea,
full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the valley
of the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor, architect,
and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at Marseilles 2d
December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis XIV., to the glory
of which his genius had contributed. He was the youngest of three
brothers, the children of Simon Puget, a poor stonemason, who died while
Pierre was still a boy.
+Marseilles+ (see p. 111). Cabs and the omnibuses from all the principal
hotels await passengers in the large open court just outside the arrival
side of the railway station. At the east end of the departure side of
the railway station is the Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the
prices are rather more than moderate.
+LYONS TO NÎMES.+
172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins,
Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil,
Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles.
Maps, pages 26, 46, 56 and 66.
miles from LYONS
miles to NÎMES
{ }{172}
NÎMES
+LYONS+: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing
Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9 m. from Lyons, pop. 1400,
with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle converted
into a school. 4 m. farther is +Givors-canal+, where the Nîmes line
separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29 m. W. The canal of Givors,
commenced in 1761, is 13 m. long, and is used chiefly by the coal
barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The train
now proceeds to Loire, 16½ m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400, famous for
chestnuts, and then 8 m. farther down the Rhône to +Ampuis+ (opposite
Vaugris), pop. 2000, H. du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and
chestnuts, and possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which
46 acres belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of
France, remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It
is a little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3 m. farther south by
rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white
wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31 m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay, pop.
1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ H. Commerce;
Soleil; omnibus at station. 4 m. from Chavanay by coach is Pelussin,
pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of Virieux castle.
7 m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway viaduct of 66 arches.
{39¼}{132¾}
+PEYRAUD+, pop. 400. Junction with line to Annonay, 9 m. W., and to
Grenoble, 60 m. E. by Rives and Voreppe. +Annonay+, pop. 16,500, built
in the hollow and on the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the
confluence of the Déôme and the Cance. _Inn:_ H. Midi, in the principal
square, occupying the centre of the low town.
The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance.
The Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the
brothers Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon
ascent, 3d June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the
founders of one of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper
was long esteemed the best in France. 27 m. N.W. from Annonay by
coach, traversing a beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From
Annonay the road ascends 9¾ m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. _Inn:_
France. Bourg, as the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and
manufacturing town, on the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains
covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes
the castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating
point on a vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country
around is covered with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the
road are to guide travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now
crosses the plateau called La République, bounded by the Bois de
Merlon, and then descends to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5 m. from St.
Etienne, and La Rivière 2 m. 17½ m. by rail from Annonay is
Tournon.
[Headnote: TOURNON.]
56½ m. S. from Lyons, 115½ N. from Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with which
it is connected by two suspension bridges, is +Tournon+, pop. 6100, on
the Rhône. Hôtel de l’Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the
landing-place from the Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily
reach from Tournon many of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotel
is the castle of the Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice.
Beyond it is the church of St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on
lofty early pointed arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal
industries. Coach daily to Le Cheilard, 5½ hrs., ascending all the way
(see p. 83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W.; to St. Agrève, 9¼
hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W. 3 m. N. from Tournon
is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See map, p. 46.)
{65½}{106½}
+SAINT PERAY+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ H. du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also
omnibus for Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the
station, situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The
vineyards here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which
is natural, not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is
the case with the other champagnes.
69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by the
Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave, La
Grotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found. 2½ m.
farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3 m. Beauchastel, pop. 1000,
2 m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (Map, p. 46.)
[Headnote: LA VOULTE.]
{77}{95}
+LA VOULTE+, pop. 5000. _Inn:_ H. du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railway
and steamboat stations. A dirty and badly-paved town on the right bank
and on the steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summit
are the Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by
Bernard Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert III. de Ventadour in
1582, who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen,
and the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large
iron-foundry, employing 170 men.
The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the
decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. _Inn:_ H.
Chalvet, 2 m. down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The water contains
iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily from La Voulte
to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N.W., 6 hrs., and to St.
Pierreville, 24 m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places separates at
St. Sauveur, 8¾ m. E. from St. Pierreville, and 15 m. S.E. from Le
Cheilard. (See map, p. 46.) St. Sauveur, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Poste;
Voyageur. Is prettily situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le
Cheilard, between high rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a
series of laboriously walled terraces, on which are small fields of
wheat intermingled with walnut, chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry
trees, and in the more favoured spots vines and peach and mulberry
trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is itself terraced the greater
part of the way. A few miles up the river, opposite the village
Chalançon, _Inn:_ H. Astier, is a very good specimen of an old
donkey-backed bridge, +Le Cheilard+, 2130 ft. above the sea, pop.
3500. _Inn:_ H. Courtial. This, the great diligence centre of Ardèche,
is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow streets, beautifully situated on
the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty terraced mountains. Coaches
daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon. Every other day to Annonay
by the same road as the Tournon coach as far as a little beyond
Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges northward. Coach
daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N.W., by St. Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200,
at the confluence of the Eysse and the Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22 m.
E. from Le Puy, near the river Lignon, pop. 900. (Map, page 46.)
[Headnote: ST. SAUVEUR. LE CHEILARD. MARCOLS.]
ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.
+Saint Sauveur to Le Beage+ by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and
Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St.
Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the
road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. +St. Pierreville+, 1788 ft.
above the sea, pop. 2100. _Inns:_ Rochier; Commerce. Temple
Protestant. On an eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville
passengers for Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road
follows the course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2 m.
before reaching Marcols is the clean little village of +Olbon+, on
both sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H. des Voyageurs, and
a Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a
spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas.
6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is +Marcols+, 3380 ft. above the sea,
a small village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the
Gluyère. _Inn:_ H. de l’Union. This is the terminus of the
stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired.
As conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan
for those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance,
is to spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next
morning in a vehicle hired from the “Bureau des Diligences,” 15 frs.
per day, with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs.
Le Beage is 28¼ m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols
6 m., Mezillac 11¾ m., and Lachamp-Raphaél 16 m.
The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs., coils up the sides of
steep terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed
situation, is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive
stone cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former
one, 10th cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac.
A little farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le
Cheilard to Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage.
Thus far the prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½ m. from
Mezillac the road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic
prisms.
[Headnote: LACHAMP-RAPHAÉL. SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.]
4½ m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of Lachamp-Raphaél, 4364 ft.
above the sea. Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where
generally abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes
may be had, with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1
hour from Lachamp by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which
plunges down into a dark abyss. Any lad can show the way.
THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC.
2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the
road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison
Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison
Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road,
which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly
seen after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour’s easy
walking from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion.
The +Gerbier-de-Joncs+ (_Gerbiarum jugum_) is an isolated pointed
cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft.
above the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and
extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of
trachyte and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire,
running first into a little circular basin for the use of the
adjoining farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet
from 3 to 4 inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to
turn the wheel of a mill. The continuation of the road from the
Gerbier goes to Les Etables, 22 m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of
Mount Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return
for the night to Lachamp, 22½ m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues.
+Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage+, 12½ m. W. Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The
road, which has been ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte,
continues to ascend till about 1¾ m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains
its culminating point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the
Gerbier diverges to the right. Less than 2 m. from this the road
crosses the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the
village of St. Eulalie on the way to Montpezat.
[Map: Mont Mezenc and the Source of the Loire]
[Headnote: LE BEAGE. MEZENC.]
+Le Beage+, pop. 850. _Inns:_ La Maison Brun; H. des Voyageurs.
A dirty cattle and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea,
beautifully situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which
rushes past in a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop
cultivated, the mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are
held annually here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to
October the weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females
is lace-making on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed
to a short cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured
glass heads. The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay
them at the rate of from 2d. to 4½d. the yard, according to the
breadth of the lace, from 2 to 4 inches. A most industrious lace-maker
can earn 1 fr. per day. 3¼ m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater
is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres.
From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of +Mezenc+ (pronounce Mezing) is
visited. But the best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above
the sea, 7½ m. N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that
distance by the direct path. _Inns:_ Testud; Chalamel, where pass the
night. The hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft.
above the sea, or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the
hamlet of Mezenc. The ascent takes about an hour.
LE BEAGE TO LE PUY.
Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On
the opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the
sea, and Crouziols, 4½ m. S. from Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le
Beage and Monastier, 10 frs.
[Headnote: LE MONASTIER.]
+LE MONASTIER+, pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse.
_Inns:_ Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11 m. N.W. 10¼ m.
S. is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the
sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles,
connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church,
St. Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in
680, and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and
repaired and enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice
exhibits throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal
consists of a semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short
columns with sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the
large rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof
runs a string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and
animals. In the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels
on the vaulting shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the
chapel of Saint Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the
“protecteur du Monastier”--“le bon pasteur, qui s’expose a la mort
pour son troupeau”--the “conservateur des fruits de la terre.” (See
his litany.)
11¼ m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful
mountain-road is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence
and the courier is at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large
“Place” and the hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the
village of Arsac, _Inn:_ H. des Voyageurs, and about 1 m. more, on an
eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the fortress
of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire at the
town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2 m. from Brives.
36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89½ m. from Lyons, and 33 m. S.E.
from St. George d’Aurac junction, on the line between Clermont and
Nîmes (see maps, pp. 26 and 46), is
[Headnote: LE PUY. THE CATHEDRAL.]
+Le Puy+,
pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers
Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2 m. from the town.
_Hotels:_ Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan
is to begin with the Cathedral. From the high side of the Place de
Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles,
Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone
pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables
to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in
front of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico
to the portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th
cent., and having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone
at the base of the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood
on this hill from the earliest times, and is called the “Pierre aux
fièvres,” from its once supposed power of curing of fever those who
lay upon it.
From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the
cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of
the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side
entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an
extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side
of it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent.,
on the other is the bishop’s palace, and in front a small terrace. At
the north side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent.,
preceded by an arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of
an oblong square, with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the
short, supported on square piers with attached colonnettes. The south
side is the earliest, beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the
most recent. The church, built in 550, received a succession of
alterations up to 1427, when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846
it was repaired and restored. The interior consists of eight square
compartments, each, excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on
four massive piers. Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower.
Under it is the high altar, with a replica of the miracle-working
image,[1] brought from Cairo in 1251, and presented to the church of
Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed in the Revolution of
1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the pier of this
compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were executed at the same time
by the same party. On the south wall a large picture represents a
numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries carrying in
procession the original image to make it stay the plague, which raged
in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the Consuls of Le
Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its protection. In the
sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the north portal is
the baptistery of +St. Jean+, built in the 4th cent, on the
foundations of a Roman edifice.
[Footnote 1: The original image was of cedar, with the face, both
of it and of the child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high,
and weighed 25 lbs. The form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian
like, and the members of both were swathed in two plies of linen.]
[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DE FRANCE.]
From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille, a mass
of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium. On the
top is the image of +Notre Dame de France+, 433 ft. above the Hôtel de
Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the 27th
September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is 52½
ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5
ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child,
J. C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90
steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps
extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this
colossal figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her
right side is seen (2½ m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a
hill 2645 ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle.
Immediately below is the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼ m. S.E., Ours
Mons.
On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up
to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799, d.
1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux is the
sculptor of both of them.
[Headnote: AIGUILHE.]
Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called
the +Aiguilhe+, 265 ft. high, 518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45
at the top, and ascended by 266 steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is
the chapel of St. Michael, commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and
consecrated in 984. The present building dates principally from the
end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and
repaired in 1850. Originally the interior of it as well as of the
cathedral was covered with mural paintings. The views are superb.
Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an
octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the
post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower
which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little
distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left
of the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous
Duguesclin, who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the
fortress of Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende.
[Headnote: MUSÉE.]
In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil
is the +Musée+, open on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything
is distinctly labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left
are architectural relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The
best fragments belonged to the temple which stood on the site now
occupied by the baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the right is
a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman antiquities,
mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle Ages.
[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. OURS MONS.]
Upstairs is the +Picture Gallery+. In the centre room are portraits of
the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy of part of
the “Danse Macabre,” dance of death, in the church of Chaise-Dieu.
Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died at Paris
1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his native
town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly belonging to
the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer, d. 1664;
Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616; Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d.
1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris, 1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695;
Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr, 1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining
small room is a complete collection of the minerals belonging to the
Haute-Loire. In the left room among other pictures are: Annunciation,
Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois, Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F.
Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de France, wife of Charles I. of
England, Van der Werf, 1722; Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert,
Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl, J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next
room are specimens of the lace, blond and guipure, worked by the
females inhabiting the towns and villages among the mountains of
Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which articles Le Puy is the great
emporium. The specimens and sample books are in cases. In the centre
case are specimens from Alençon, Binche, Brussels, Cevennes mountains,
Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice; the Corsage with lace
trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day she was married to
Napoleon I.; also some of her ribbons.
1¼ m. S.E. from Le Puy is +Ours Mons+, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180
ft. above the plain. The prospect from the top is considered by Mr.
Scrope most remarkable; “exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of
volcanic formation, in great variety of aspect, containing igneous
products of various natures, belonging to different epochs.”
LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES. (Map, p. 46.)
+Le Puy+, 2045 ft., +to Langogne+, 2940 ft. above the sea, 26 m. S. by
coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a high, cold,
treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is about a mile
south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. from Pradelles. 8 m.
from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft. From this hamlet a
road diverges 8 m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft. above the sea, pop. 1450.
_Inn:_ Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and cheese-making village, about
1½ m. by a good road from the extinct crater of +Le Bouchet+, 231 ft.
higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres and 92 ft. deep. It is
very similar to Lake Issarlès, near Beage (which see p. 85). After
Montagnac the coach arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12 m. S., where the
horses are changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and
afterwards Pradelles, 3771 ft., pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21 m.
from Le Puy and 5 m. from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne
railway station, where the omnibus of the Cheval Blanc awaits
passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. from Le Monastier by St.
Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½ m. from Les Sallettes (see map, p. 46).
+Pradelles to Mayres+, 18 m. S.E., char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a
good but a high and exposed road, passing Peyrebelle (p. 95), La
Narce, 8¾ m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft. above the sea, near
the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends rapidly, passing
above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance into
Ardèche.
From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St.
Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and
12½ m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach.
[Headnote: ESPALY. BORNE. DARSAC.]
LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES. (Map, p. 46.)
For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to +Langeac+ by
St. Georges d’Aurac is very useful. The culminating point of the line,
3658 ft, is in the tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This
railway crosses at right angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct
volcanoes, extending from Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles.
+Le Puy to Langeac+, 36½ m. W. by rail. The first part of the line
traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs. 1 m.
from Le Puy the train passes the village of Espaly, and by the face of
basaltic columns rising from the Borne and its little affluent the
Riou-Pézeliou, in whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been
found. On the opposite side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt
called the Croix de la Paille, with a display of prisms in three
tiers, called les orgues d’Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at
the foot of a rock of volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of
a castle built in 1260 by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy.
8¾ m. from Puy is +Borne+, 2535 ft. above the sea, pop. 390. A ramble
in the ravine of Borne forms a pleasant and easy excursion from Le
Puy. 5½ m. E. from this station, or 3¼ m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac,
passed by the train. The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th
cent., is at the foot of a rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the
imposing ruins of a fortress dating from the 11th cent. A stair of 132
steps (ascent dangerous) leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th
cent., commanding an extensive view.
13 m. W. from Le Puy is +Darsac+, 2914 ft. above the sea. A small
hamlet, with a restaurant, the +station for Chaise-Dieu+, 13¾ m. N.,
fare 2½ frs., and for Arlanc, 24¼ m. N., or 10½ m. beyond
Chaise-Dieu.
[Headnote: LA CHAISE-DIEU.]
The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a dirty little
village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the sea,
with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and
Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the
Velay chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8 m.
the high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at +La
Chaise-Dieu+, 3576 ft. above the sea, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or;
Centre; Nord. A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church
participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and
canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons
of N. D. du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and
most inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and
his companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery
at Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly
proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or
Casa-Dei. Clement VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of
Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his
elevation to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on
the site formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was
continued and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom
are the façade with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high,
and the horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and
110 high, attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot
de Chanac to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with
a wall. The gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent,
are just under the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings
are the cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two
sides remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and
traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four.
The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall
plain slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which
spreads itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide,
and the aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same
height. The church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one
between each two columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where
a triangular projection affords space for three windows. The tracery
has little depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft.
long, is separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144
carved cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of
Arras tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the
centre is the mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with
the hands folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an
altar table of black marble.
On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is
the “Danse Macabre,” or dance of death, a favourite subject with
artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund
gait of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and
demure expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and
warriors, young and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst
of their projects and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the
sadly mutilated mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the
unfortunate Harold. Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last
abbot of La Chaise-Dieu.
[Headnote: ARLANC.]
La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert.
10½ m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼ m. N. from Darsac, and
11¼ m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is +Arlanc+, pop.
4500, _Inn:_ H. des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore,
consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed
mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made here.
[Headnote: AMBERT. FIX-ST. GENEYS.]
11¼ m. N. is the manufacturing town of Ambert, pop. 8000, 43 m. N. by
rail from Vichy; whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating
point of the Forez mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the
sea. 15 m. from Ambert, and 11¾ m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop.
2000, on a hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some
13th cent. houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the
family of the Tour d’Auvergne. 13 m. farther N., or 8¾ m. S. from
Thiers, is Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and
the ruins of the castle of Courte-Serre. 61 m. N. from Darsac, or
36¾ m. N. from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For Vichy see
p. 358; Thiers, p. 367.
The next station west from Darsac by rail (see map, p. 46) is +Fix-St.
Geneys+, 18 m. from Le Puy, 3274 ft. above the sea, pop. 900. _Inn:_
H. des Voyageurs, situated on a tableland above the valley of the
Sioule, covered on one side with firs. 2½ m. farther is the station
for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950 ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½ m.
farther is Rougeac, with a castle 1923 ft. above the sea.
[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D’AURAC. MONISTROL.]
The most westerly station on the line is +St. Georges d’Aurac+, 1872
ft. above the sea, 86½ m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy.
58½ m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. by rail is Nîmes (see
map, p. 26). Near the station is the inn Lombardin. The village, pop.
500, is 2 m. S.E. Other 2 m. E. is the château Chavagnac, the
birthplace of General Lafayette. 5½ m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800,
most picturesquely situated on a narrow peninsula formed by the
Allier, opposite the mouth of the Avesne. The church was built in the
15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon, bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going
north change carriages at the station of St. Georges d’Aurac. 4½ m.
S.W. from St. Georges, 90½ W. from St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy,
is +Langeac+, 1690 ft., 63 m. S. from Clermont, and 127 m. N. from
Nîmes. All the trains halt here. _Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. Their
omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on the Allier, is a pleasant town
near the station, situated in a vast plain. The parish church dates
from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the town, in the valley of Morange,
is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (Map, page 46.)
15 m. S. from Langeac is +Monistrol+-d’Allier, 2000 ft. above the sea,
pop. 1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side
of the river. Coach by a picturesque road to +Le Puy+, 17 m. N.E. by
St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in
a deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of
Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea.
10 m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old
church. 1¼ m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of Cordes,
3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and Mont
Bonzon. Coach from +Monistrol to Saugues+, 6½ m. W., 3116 ft., pop.
4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful valley of the
Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument called the tomb of the
“English general.” It consists of a square vaulted roof of small
stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high and 6⅜ ft. apart.
It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the mortuary chapel
at Valence (see p. 44).
[Headnote: LE POUZIN. PRIVAS.]
miles from LYONS
miles to NÎMES
{81}{91}
+LE POUZIN+, pop. 3000, _Inn:_ H. Lion d’Or, on the Ouvèze, which here
enters the Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old
castle. Junction with line to Privas, 13¼ m. W. +Privas+, pop. 8000.
_Inns:_ Croix d’Or; Louvre. On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at
the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838 ft. higher, and at the confluence of the
Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a
distance, consists chiefly of narrow, crooked, steep streets, and
dingy houses. From the promenade called the Esplanade, planted with
plane trees, is an excellent view of the picturesque valley of the
Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the Coiron, especially of Mount
Combier. 1¼ m. from Privas, on the plain of the Lai, is a house called
the Logis du Roi, in which Louis XIII. established his headquarters in
1629, when, with Cardinal Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant
inhabitants in the town, commanded by the brave Montbrun.
From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollières, on the Eyrieux. _Inn:_
H. du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières the coaches to
La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le Cheilard and
to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the Source of
the Loire and Mont Mezenc (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to Aubenas,
18 m. S.E. (See next page, and map p. 46.)
[Headnote: ROCHEMAURE.]
{98}{74}
+ROCHEMAURE+, pop. 1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the
Rhône. The modern part of the village is built along the high road, but
the old on the steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of
the castle. There are many ways up to the top; the best and most
frequented commences just opposite the “auberge,” traverses the centre
of the curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with
the arms of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the
battlemented wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the
seigneurial manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on
a needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the
Keep, like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far up
will be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley
of the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains.
These ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a
massive edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th
cent. by the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present
condition by order of Louis XIII.
A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more than
an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top of
the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic
columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear.
[Headnote: LE TEIL.]
{95¾}{76¼}
+LE TEIL+, pop. 3200, with some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers
for Montelimart, 3¼ m. E., on the other side of the Rhône (p. 48).
Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S.W., on the line between Nîmes and
Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch, 17½ m. S.W. from Le Teil,
and 44¾ m. N.E. from Alais, a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. to
Nieigles-Prades. The Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance
into Ardèche (see maps, pages 26, 46, and 56).
[Headnote: AUBENAS. VALS.]
+Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres.+
5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is Aubignas (Alba
Augusta), pop. 530, once an important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. from
Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000, _Inn:_ H. Durand, on a hill covered with
vines, olives, and mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche,
and commanding an extensive view of the valley of the river. On the
highest part of the town are the church and the fine old castle, now
containing the college, the hospital, and some other public
institutions. Aubenas is the centre of an important trade in raw silk,
butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux, a village to the north of Aubenas,
excellent chestnuts are grown. (Maps, pages 56 and 46.)
3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus
awaits passengers. VALS, pop. 4000, on the Volane, famous for its
+Mineral Waters+. _Hotels:_ Des Bains, on an eminence above the
bathing establishment and the gardens. In the same neighbourhood are
the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse; Lyon; Orient. All the important
springs are also in this part. In the town are the Hotels Europe;
Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to
15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs. Season from 1st May to
October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane, in a hollow among
hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry and chestnut
trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all at the
eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent fountain,
and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises, under a
grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little
beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse,
and the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up
the river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so
pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the
Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to
the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove
paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may
be drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and
magnesia, lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the
arseniate of soda, and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid
gas.
[Headnote: ANTRAIGUES.]
5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16 m. from Privas, is
+Antraigues+, pop. 2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks,
at whose base flow three impetuous mountain torrents--the Bise, Mas,
and Volane. From the heights behind the town there is a magnificent
view. In the neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the +Coupe d’Aizac+,
covered with a beautiful reddish lava. _Inns:_ Brousse; Glaise.
[Headnote: NEYRAC-LES-BAINS. THUEYTS. MAYRES.]
AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES. (Maps, pp. 56 and 46.)
Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through
Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is
+Neyrac-les-Bains+, the Nereisaqua of the Romans. _Inns:_ H. des
Bains; H. Fournier. 2½ m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7 from Vals, and 9½
from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger,
containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81°
Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place,
the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in
2 or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2 m.
W., on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the
Médéric, is +Thueyts+, pop. 2600, _Inn:_ H. Burine, situated on a bed
of lava from the crater of Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea.
Through this bed the Ardèche has, in cutting a passage for itself,
laid bare a grand display of basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft.
high, extending nearly 2 m. down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg
are a bridge with two stages of arches across the Médéric, called the
Pont du Diable, and the falls of the Gueule d’Enfer, 330 ft., which,
unless in rainy weather, have very little water. From this part
commences the Pavé-des-Géants, a tableland composed of granite and
basalt of an average height of 214 ft. from the base, lined with
vertical prisms. To the right, at the extremity of this wall of rock,
is the +Echelle du Roi+, a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms,
within a natural shaft or chimney, leading up to the top of the
tableland, where there is a good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne.
The ascent requires about 1 hour.
The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near
the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d’Abraham,
4358 ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation.
5½ m. from Thueyts is +Mayres+, pop. 2900. _Inns:_ France; Commerce.
1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft.
above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge
between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres.
For Langogne, 22 m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From
Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet
of Astet at the foot of the Rocher d’Astet, 4925 ft. above the
sea.
7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170
ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½ m. farther is La
Narce, pop. 900. A little beyond, or 26 m. from Aubenas and 14 from
Langogne, is the roadside inn of Peyrebelle, 4195 ft. above the sea,
where for 25 years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the
travellers that came to their house. Nearly 4 m. N. from Peyrebelle is
Coucouron, pop. 1400.
The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the
snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter.
35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is Pradelles, 3771 ft., 16 m.
from Le Puy by coach and 5 from Langogne (see p. 88, and maps, pages
26, 56 and 46).
[Headnote: PRADES.]
+Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat, St. Eulalie,
and Source of the Loire.+
For the main loopline, see map p. 56; for the rest, map p. 46.
11¾ m. N. from Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the
terminus of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it
coaches take passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600,
is situated on an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardèche. In
the vicinity are coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting
terraces covered with chestnut trees. On the south side of the
Ardèche, and to the east of Jaujac, is +Prades+, pop. 1200, on the
Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin.
Near the railway terminus is the village of +Pont-de-la-Baume+, pop.
900, _Inns:_ H. du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea, at the
confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the Ardèche. One
of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in the
neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded
here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet,
Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it.
[Headnote: JAUJAC. MONTPEZAT.]
3¾ m. from La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is +Jaujac+, the
Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ Union. On an eminence
above the Alignon, of which nearly the whole of the right bank from
Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is lined with countless basaltic prisms.
From the town cross the bridge, and at the mill descend to the path by
the side of the river, where there is an admirable view of the
columns, which, however, are not vertical. About ½ m. from the town is
the Coupe de Jaujac, an extinct volcano, which has burst through the
coal formation of this valley, bounded by mountains of granite and
gneiss. It is ascended easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the
crater, just where the path leading to the top commences, is a gaseous
chalybeate spring; not unlike those of Vals.
14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by
diligence, is +Montpezat+. The road from Aubenas ascends by the
Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the foot of the hill, on which
are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour, 14th cent. Farther on,
within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of the castle of
Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115 ft. high,
over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the Fontaulière or
Fontollière. Near the suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt.
Gravenne, the best specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region.
The toll-keeper from the bridge can point out the path leading to the
top. The bridge is about 10 minutes’ walk from Montpezat.
+Montpezat+-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above the
sea, rising from the Ardèche. _Inns:_ Europe; Poste. This is the
terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in
the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the
new road La Vestide is 6½ m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of
the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but
the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the
village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. distant.
MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY.
To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage,
16 m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier, 12 m.,
10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From Montpezat the
road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite the extinct
volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North is Lake
Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above the sea.
After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of Rioutort,
crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of Usclades,
9 m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road ascends to Le
Beage, 6¼ m. N. (see p. 84).
[Headnote: SAINTE EULALIE.]
From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by
Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. +Sainte Eulalie+, pop. 650, _Inn:_ Faure,
in a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2 m. S. from
the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in
the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the
source of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the
one-arch bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the
path by the side of the stream (see p. 84, and maps pp. 46 and
85).
[Headnote: RUOMS. LARGENTIÈRE.]
+Ruoms, Largentière, Vallon, Pont d’Arc.+
See map, page 56.
25½ m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogué, and 36½ m. N.E. of Alais,
is +Ruoms+. Station for Largentière, 9 m. N., 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8 m.
W., and for Vallon, 6¼ m. S. Largentière, pop. 3000. _Hotels:_ Europe;
France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix,
pop. 5000, on the Cèze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and
glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with
important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L’Argentière, situated
in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous
mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the
Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300.
Joyeuse, pop. 2300. _Inns:_ H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its suburb,
Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part of its ancient ramparts, and
the castle which belonged to the Sires de Joyeuse. In the church the
chapel to the right of the choir contains an Annunciation, with the
arms of the family of Joyeuse.
The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a
considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates.
[Headnote: PONT D’ARC.]
VALLON TO THE PONT D’ARC. (Map, p. 56.)
One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is Vallon, pop. 2500. _Inns:_
*H. du Louvre; Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the Pont
d’Arc is 75 minutes distant by the stony road over the hill, which, as
far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is also the road to the caves.
A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10 frs.; to St. Martin it costs
35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is 3 m. from the railway station of
St. Just, on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p. 98).
The landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont,
2 frs., or for the caves, 5 frs., or the boatman for sailing down the
Ardèche. The Pont d’Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche,
composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through
which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft.
high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick.
There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is
unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding
scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and mulberry
trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft. high,
which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great
stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them
is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles,
honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are
better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by
other scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly
appears upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, page 54.)
miles from LYONS
miles to NÎMES
{102½}{69½}
+VIVIERS+, pop. 3300. _Inn:_ Louvre. The station and the new town are
along the road parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral is
on the hill behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here,
along the W. side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, the
quarrying and preparing of which forms the principal industry of the
place. Coach to Aps, 8 m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing
St. Thomé, pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay,
which flows through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on the
opposite or east side of the Rhône.
[Headnote: BOURG-ST. ANDEOL.]
{109½}{62½}
+BOURG-ST. ANDEOL+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Luxembourg; Europe; their
omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (page 50), on
the opposite or E. side of the Rhône. Le Bourg has handsome quays
alongside the Rhône, a church founded in the 11th cent., and some houses
of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards from the town, at the foot
of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de Tournes, which, after turning
various mills, flows into the Rhône. About 20 ft. above it is a much
effaced sculpture in relief, representing the sacrifice of a bull to the
god Mithras.
[Headnote: ST. JUST.]
{115}{57}
+ST. JUST+ and St. Marcel station, from which both towns are less than a
mile, but in different directions. 2½ m. from the village of St. Just is
St. Martin, pop. 600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardèche.
A ferry-boat crosses the river. On the other side, a little farther up,
is Aiguèze, pop. 450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien,
but not seen from St. Martin.
Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m. up
the river, or 3¾ m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price depends
upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists of a
tunnel, 4¼ m. long, which here and there widens out into spacious lofty
caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep, slippery, and
fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and certainly none but
ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should undertake the labour.
The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels are at Pont-Saint
Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol.
[Headnote: PONT-ST. ESPRIT.]
{119}{53}
+PONT-ST. ESPRIT+, pop. 5000. H. de l’Europe. Coach to La Croisière, on
the other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière page
50.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons and Avignon. Pont-Saint
Esprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the western Rhône railway,
makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place, with pleasant
promenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge are the church
of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in the 15th cent.
Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620. Within, down a
steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel constructed in
1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a
beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant
pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the
Hôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery.
Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½ m. S.W.) and back 15 frs. At
Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30
inmates. The drive is pleasant (see map, page 56).
Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m.
N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.)
7½ m. south from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cèze, pop. 5000. H. du
Louvre. Omnibus at station. A manufacturing town. Coach to Uzès,
17 m. W.
{132½}{39½}
+LAUDUN+, pop. 2200, about 2½ m. west from the station, and 10 m. from
Orange, is built on a hill 350 ft. high. The vineyards in the
neighbourhood produce a good white wine. Junction with branch to Alais,
35½ m. west, by Connaux, St. Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, and
Mejannes; small and uninteresting towns (see map, p. 26).
[Headnote: ROQUEMAURE.]
{137½}{34½}
+ROQUEMAURE+, pop. 3100. _Inns:_ H. du Nord; H. du Midi. Omnibus at
station. Situated on the small branch of the Rhône which encircles the
island of Mémar, 1¼ m. long. The best part of this curious old town is
in the neighbourhood of the Hôtel du Midi, where are the public
promenade with large trees, the great embankment to protect the town
from the invasions of the Rhône, and the ruins of the old castle, of
which the most remarkable part is the square tower perched on the point
of a great rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround the
village. Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on the
Rhône, has a dingy and untidy appearance. Clement V., first Pope of
Avignon, died here in 1314. 5 m. W. is Taval, pop. 2200, where a good
wine is made.
[Headnote: PONT-D’AVIGNON.]
{144¾}{27¼}
+PONT-D’AVIGNON+, station on the west side of the Rhône for Avignon
(p. 63). Omnibuses from the hotels await passengers. The omnibus between
Avignon and Villeneuve passes the station every hour. Tram every ¼
between the station and Avignon.
7 m. S. from the Pont-d’Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhône, at a
considerable distance from its station. 3¾ m. farther is Thezièrs, pop.
650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent., and the ruins of a
castle. (Map, page 66.)
{159¾}{12¼}
+REMOULINS+, pop. 1400, with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch to
Uzès, 12½ m. N.W. On this line, 3¼ m. from Remoulins and 9¼ from Uzès,
is Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge.
(For description and directions see pp. 64 and 104, and map page 66.)
[Headnote: UZÈS.]
+UZÈS+, pop. 5600, _Inn_ Bechard: on an eminence surrounded by
picturesque calcareous rocks. From the inn walk past the church St.
Etienne, then turn to the left, and having gone down the avenue ascend
the double stair leading up to the beautiful terrace, on which, to the
left, stands the Cathedral, and to the right, projecting from the
balustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in which
Racine resided with his uncle, a canon of the cathedral. Below, in the
deep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the Roman
aqueduct at Nîmes. At the S.W. corner of the church rises from a square
basement a circular campanile, 12th cent., in six stages, of which five
are composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by twin open
arches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled roof,
partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of the
church is the bishop’s palace, now the Sous-Préfecture, and the seat of
the tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town the
most prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, with
turrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carrée de l’Horloge,
surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. The
octagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from the
École des Frères, and the low square tower from the church of St.
Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duret
of Admiral Comte de Brueys, né à Uzès le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort à Aboukir
(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to the
Marché au Blé, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie and
Post Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called Le
Duché, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducs
d’Uzès. Fee for a party 1 fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour de
la Chapelle, 13th cent., restored; to the left, the dungeon tower, 11th
cent., ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and in
front the façade, 16th cent., by P. Delorme. The ground-floor of the
“Tour de la Chapelle” contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is a
large crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross of
copper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair,
vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The best
wines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzès. Besides
the railway, Uzès is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols, 17 m.
E. on the railway of the west side of the Rhône, 19 m. N. from the Pont
d’Avignon, and 7½ m. S. from Pont-St. Esprit.
[Headnote: SERNHAC-LÉDENON.]
After Remoulins the train halts at the station +Sernhac-Lédenon+.
+Lédenon+, pop. 700, is about 2 m. W. from the station, and +Sernhac+,
pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7 m. from Nîmes is the St.
Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2½ m. nearer, Marguerittes, pop. 2000, with
a handsome modern church, and in the cemetery the ruins of the chapel of
St. Gilles, 12th cent., seen from railway.
[Map: Nimes]
[Headnote: NÎMES. AMPHITHEATRE.]
172 m. S.W. from Lyons, 27½ m. S.W. from Avignon, 31 m. N.E. from
Montpellier by Gallargues, 17 m. W. from Tarascon, 80 m. N.W. from
Marseilles, and 450 m. S.E. from Paris by Clermont-Ferrand, is
NÎMES,
population 64,000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea. A flight of
steps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the station. At the foot
of these steps is the Hôtel des Arts, pretty comfortable room 2 frs.,
dinner with wine 3 frs. The trams start from in front of the house. In
the town are: On the Esplanade, the H. Luxembourg, the most expensive.
By the side of it, fronting a garden, the H. du Midi or Durand, from 9
to 12 frs. Fronting the amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to
10 frs. Opposite the Maison Carrée, the H. Manivet, 9 to 12 frs., the
most conveniently situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibuses
await passengers at the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B.
du Grand Cours, between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. Telegraph
Office in the Place de la Salamandre, a small “Place” off the B. des
Calquières. Temple Protestant, the Porte d’Auguste, and the handsome new
church of St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north end
of the B. des Calquières, beyond the Esplanade.
_Sights._--The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and the Roman Baths.
_Cab Stands_ are found at the station, at the Amphitheatre, and at the
Maison Carrée. Cab carrying 4, 2 frs. per hour.
A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to the
Esplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marble
colossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhône, the
Gardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of the
pedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nîmes, with
its face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice and
the Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua.
The great sight in Nîmes is the Roman +Amphitheatre+, the most perfect
extant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437
ft., and the lesser 433 ft., and the height 70 ft. Around the building
are two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the arches
being separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs an
attic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustained
the awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on the
upper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one being
roofed with stone slabs 18 ft. long, reaching from side to side. There
were four entrances, one facing each of the cardinal points of the
compass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats in 4 zones, capable of
accommodating from 18,000 to 20,000 spectators. The lowest zone
corresponded to the dress circle, the others to the galleries. The
present entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c., opposite No. 8
Place des Arènes. The stair that leads up to the top is under the fifth
arch west. No description can express the sensation experienced from
contemplating this vast Roman structure from the highest tier or from
the edge of the outside wall. At the same time it must be remembered
that there are no railings, and that an inadvertent step might have
serious consequences. The date of the building is uncertain. Titus,
Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured to have been the
founder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress, the Castrum
Arenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the 8th cent.,
till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died in 715.
On the N. side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine, with,
on the left hand or W. side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including the
Public Library, containing 60,000 vols.; the Archæological Museum,
containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in the
neighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among other
pictures, a Magdalene by Guido; A Holy Family, a Head of John the
Baptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; A Head of a Girl and a
Return from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of his mother,
by himself; Cromwell regarding Charles I. laid out in his coffin, by
Paul Delaroche, his chef d’œuvre; “Nero and a Sorceress experimenting on
a slave with the poison they were preparing for Britannicus,” by Javier
Sigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by Gérard Dow, Claude
Lorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van den Welde, and
Wouvermans.
At the N. end of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with frescoes
on gold and blue grounds by H. and P. Flandrin.
[Headnote: LA MAISON CARRÉE. CATHEDRAL.]
Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them +La Maison
Carrée+, a beautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably part of the
Forum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending east and
west. It is 75 ft. long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed to have
been erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a platform, and
is encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30 Roman-Corinthian
columns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll frieze, sculptured
dentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are attached, excepting
the ten which support the pediment. In the area within the railing are
mutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns.
Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral St. Castor,
built in the 11th cent., but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. The
most venerable portion is the façade, constructed of large blocks of
stone. A delicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis,
extends under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported by
brackets with acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand,
in the interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exterior
frieze.
[Headnote: ROMAN BATHS. TOURMAGNE. FORT.]
N.W. from the Maison Carrée is the Public Garden, adorned with vases and
statues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and plane
trees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called the
temple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built B.C. 24, of huge
carefully-hewn blocks of sandstone, and reduced to its present state in
1577. The little of the ornamental work that remains is very much
mutilated. Opposite the temple, protected from the troublesome winds of
Nîmes, are the +Roman Baths+, about 12 ft. below the level of the
gardens, the vaulting being supported on small columns, over which rise
open stone balustrades. Adjoining is the copious spring that supplies
them, as placid but somewhat larger than the Fontaine of Vaucluse
(p. 65).
From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier to
an octagonal structure called the +Tourmagne+, 90 ft. high, erected
before the Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It was
originally filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. in
search of treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in
1843. The view from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents.
Eastward from the Tourmagne is the Fort, built by Louis XIV., now the
town prison. On the western side of the fort are the remains of the
reservoir, _castellum divisorium_, which received the water brought by
the canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still brings
water to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the fort.
In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nîmes, 7 ft. high,
pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Porte
d’Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. end of
the Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of the
Rue Carrètérie. (See plan.)
The ancient name of Nîmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of Gallia
Narbonensis, and the capital of the Volcæ Arecomici. As early as the
reign of Augustus it was a “colonia,” and possessed in the days of
Strabo the “+Jus Latii+,” and therefore was independent of the Roman
governors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was exported
to Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal emporium in
the south of France. The wines of Nîmes are in repute in Paris,
particularly the Costière and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de Remède.
Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who introduced
tobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis Philippe, were
born at Nîmes.
[Headnote: PONT-DU-GARD.]
13½ miles from Nîmes is the +Pont-du-Gard+, built by the Romans in the
reign of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25 m. long, which, from the
neighbourhood of Uzès (page 99), brought the waters of the Eure and
Airan to the reservoir beside the fort, of which only vestiges now
remain. This “Pont,” which spans the valley or banks of the river
Gardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total height above the
bed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are formed of hewn
stones, placed together without the aid of any cement; but the mason
work underneath the channel of the third or top story is of rough stones
cemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The first or lowest row
consists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. each, except the largest,
which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven arches of the same
dimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches of 15 ft. span.
A stair from the right bank of the river leads up to the watercourse
above the topmost tier of arches. In the striking boldness of its design
this bridge exhibits a decided improvement and superiority over all the
other Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider, and the piers in proportion
lighter, and had the same principle been extended so as to have formed
it of one single row from top to bottom, it would have equalled in the
skill and disposition of its materials the more judicious and more
elegant structures of modern times (see Roquefavour, p. 77). Take ticket
to Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon,
take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take another
ticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulins
station, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under Avignon, p. 64).
79 m. S.E. from Nîmes by rail is +Marseilles+ (p. 111), passing
Tarascon, 17 m. (p. 66), and Arles, 25 m. (p. 68).
[Headnote: VIGAN.]
NÎMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN.
See Map, p. 26.
58 m. N.W. by rail from Nîmes is Vigan, whence coach 43 m. W., 9 hrs.,
to Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of
importance on this line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan,
are very picturesque. 27 m. from Vigan, and 31 from Nîmes, is Quissac,
pop. 1800, junction with line to Lezan, 9 m. N., and thence 4½ m. E.
to Mas des Gard, on the Nîmes and Alais line. 9 m. W. from Lezan is
St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this
the line goes westward by La Cadière to Ganges, 9½ m. from Vigan, on
the Hérault, 595 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000, H. Croix Blanche,
omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2½ m. farther
is Jumène, 682 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron mines.
4 m. from Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. above the sea, the line crosses
the Hérault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre follows
the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Voyageurs;
Cheval Blanc; both in the “Place,” near the statue of the Chevalier
d’Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and “Mort glorieusement à Clastercamp
à 27 ans.” Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hérault, is 860 ft.
above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with terraces of
vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to nearly their
summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved streets.
The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the post
office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the
neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty,
on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the
Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it
are the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat.
[Headnote: VALLERAUGUE.]
Coach daily to +Valleraugue+, _Inn:_ Aresque, 14 m. N., in a very
picturesque region, on the Hérault, in a deep wooded valley between
the Aigoual mountains towards the N., and the Espéron mountains
towards the S. The principal source of the Hérault is a little higher,
towards the W., at Séreyrède. From Valleraugue the ascent is made in
about 2½ hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. above the sea, the culminating
point of the Espéron, commanding a magnificent view. The source of the
Dourbie is just a little to the S. of Valleraugue, and of the Tarn to
the N., but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent fishing,
botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood.
[Headnote: LARZAC.]
+Le Vigan to Millau+, 43 m. W. by diligence, 9 hrs. The first village
the coach passes is Molières, on a hill above the road, with
coal-mines. From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5½
m., and Arre, 6¼ m., from Vigan. A little higher up the coach leaves
by a tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with
the village Alzon, 12½ m. from Vigan, pop. 900. _Inn:_ the
Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of 7 m.
the coach arrives at Sauclières, pop. 2200, _Inn:_ H. du Nord,
producing excellent pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this
ascends the southern side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with
vineyards, olive and mulberry trees, and farther up forests of
chestnut trees. From the other side of the ridge it descends to the
valley of the Dourbie, in which is St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000,
_Inn:_ Commerce, 23 m. from Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having
traversed the valley of the Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches
Nant, pop. 2000, a poor village, on an eminence, 16 m. from Millau.
Shortly afterwards the diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of
+Larzac+, 2790 ft. above the sea, and arrives at the village of La
Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7 m. W. is Millau, on the line to
Paris by Rodez.
[Map: The Rhone & Savoy with the Passes from France into Italy]
[Headnote: TEMPERATURE. VEGETATION.]
THE RIVIERA.
HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE.
[Illustration: thermometer]
The Riviera is a strip of land extending 323 miles along the coast of
the Mediterranean at the foot of the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots.
It is usually divided into two portions--the Riviera from Hyères to
Genoa, 203 miles long; and the Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles
long. The milder and more frequented of the two is the former--the
Western Riviera--which has been subjected to most careful and minute
meteorological observations, and the various stations classified
according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203
miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in
all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from
each other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has some
peculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiarity
being more often accidental and social--such as the people met with, the
lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little things which
exercise a more powerful influence upon the health and well-being of the
mind and body than the mere fractional difference of temperature. None
of the protecting mountains of any of the stations are sufficiently
high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds when the higher
mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges have deep
indentations through which the cold air, as well as the streams,
descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold winds, and
all delicate persons must ever be on their guard against them--the more
sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is
the danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous
+Mistral+, a north-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera feels like
a north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean winter
temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyères, considered the
coolest of the winter stations, is 47°.4 Fahr., and of San Remo,
considered the mildest, 48°.89 Fahr. The coldest months are December and
January. With February the temperature commences to rise progressively.
Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is the rule,
cloudy and wet weather the exception. “In December wild flowers are rare
till after Christmas, when the long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone,
and the violet make their appearance. These by the end of January have
become abundant, and are quickly followed in February by crocuses,
primroses, and pretty blue hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are
springing up in the olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones.
In March the hillsides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and the
Mediterranean heath, to which April adds cistuses, helianthemums,
convolvuli, serapiases, and gladioli.” --_H. S. Roberton_. There is a
much less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palm
flourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of the
midrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are the
orange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree (_Schinus molle_), the
camphor tree (_Ligustrum ovalifolium_), the locust tree (_Ceratona
siliqua_), the Tree Veronica, the magnolia, and different species of the
Eucalyptus or gum tree and of the true Acacia. In marshy places the
common bamboo (_Arundo donax_) attains a great height; while the _Sedum
dasyphyllum_, the aloe, and the Opuntium or prickly-pear, clothe the dry
rocky banks with verdure. The most important tree commercially is the
olive, which occupies the lower part of the mountains and immense tracts
in the valleys. The higher elevations are divided among the cork tree
(_Quercus suber_), the Maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and the
chestnut tree. The Japanese medlar (_Eriobotrya japonica_) is common in
the orchards, flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. With the
exception of the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard trees
ripen their fruit too late for the winter resident.
On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyères, St. Raphael, Grasse,
and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for 8s. or 9s.
per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a substantial
meat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin ordinaire) to both. In
some boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day is as low as 6s. If
two are together, especially two ladies or a gentleman and his wife, an
excellent plan is to take a furnished room, which, with a south exposure
and good furniture, ought to cost about £2 per month. They can easily
prepare their own breakfast, and they can get their dinner sent to them.
If the party be numerous, apartments should be taken, which vary from £2
to £30 per month. For the season, from October to May, furnished
apartments are let at prices varying from £18 to £100. As a general rule
it is best to alight at some hotel, and, while on the spot, to select
either the pension or apartments, as no description can give an adequate
idea of the state of the drains nor of the people of the house.
A maid-servant costs nearly £1 per month, a cook about one-half more,
but they are not easily managed. Fluids are sold by the litre, equal to
nearly a quart of four (not six) to the gallon. Solids are sold by the
kilogramme, or, as it is generally called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs.
3¼ oz.
[Headnote: COST OF LIVING. FISH. VEGETABLES.]
Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and mutton
cost from 1s. 10d. to 2s. the kilo. A good chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs when at
their dearest cost 1½d. each. Excellent milk costs 4d. the litre. The
best butter 3s. 2d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. Of French cheese there are a
great many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the Roquefort and
the fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from 2s. 6d. to 3s.
6d. the kilo. Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off the
coast are: the Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup or
Bass, the Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard
(Grondin), the John Dory (Dorée Commune), the Whiting (Merlan), and the
Conger are very fair. The sole, turbot, tunny, and mackerel are inferior
to those caught in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. Good
vegetables can be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks,
celery, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinage, sorrel, and
artichokes. The cardon (_Cynara cardunculus_) and salsifis (_Tragopogon
porrifolius_) are often served up at dinner in the hotels. The cardon
tastes like celery, but the salsifis has a bitter flavour. The potatoes
are of good quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all the
stations are English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers,
bakers, and grocers.
[Headnote: ADVANTAGES.]
Before commencing to treat in detail the different stations of the
Riviera, “some of the general advantages of the invalid’s life in this
region must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshine
which he enjoys for weeks and even months together, when the sun often
rises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a brightness and
warmth surpassing that of the British summer, and then sinks without a
cloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps, displaying in
his setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints which
characterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light,
a southern sunset; when he imparts to the rugged mountains a softness of
outline and a brilliancy of colouring which defy description. In the
early stages of phthisis, and especially when the patient is young and
active-minded, struck down by overwork or sudden exposure, this cheering
influence is most beneficial. It is of great importance that, while
taking the needful care of himself, he should not degenerate at an early
age into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as an every-day
increasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that under the
influence of medicine and climate a large number of these patients
gradually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with due
care, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never neglect
to consult a doctor on their first arrival, as his experience and advice
with regard to lodgings, food, etc., are of great value, and may often
prevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in unhealthy
localities.” To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added, that
patients should bring with them a letter from their physician describing
their case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted.
The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then there
is rarely either wind or dust. For invalids requiring quiet sunny walks
there are no stations on the whole coast so suitable as Hyères and
Bordighera.
[Headnote: SEA-BATHING. DOCTORS’ FEES.]
_Sea-bathing_ on the Riviera may be continued with advantage by many
during the greater part of the winter season. As the rise and fall of
the tide are so trifling, the beach is always in a fit state for the
bather. The water of the Mediterranean is more highly mineralised than
that of the ocean. It contains about 41 per cent of common salt.
_Doctors’ Fees._--French doctors charge their countrymen generally 10
frs. for each visit. English doctors charge for each visit 5, 10, or 20
frs., according to what they suppose to be the means of their patients.
An extra charge is made for night work.
Tourists may find it convenient to take with them a little brandy, tea,
arrowroot, Liebig’s extract, Gregory’s mixture, opium pills, and a
little of whatever medicine they are in the habit of using. The ordinary
wine at the hotels is neither so good nor so safe as formerly, and
should always be watered.
[Headnote: MARSEILLES.]
MARSEILLES.
+MARSEILLES+, pop. 319,000, 15 hrs. 25 min. from Paris, and 6 hrs.
37 min. from Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min., and from Nice
5 hrs. 27 min. 536½ m. S. from Paris, 190¼ m. S. from Lyons, 120½ m. W.
from Cannes, and 140 m. W. from Nice. On the departure side of the
railway station is the +Terminus Hotel+ (dear). The hotel omnibuses
await passengers. Call out loudly the name of the hotel desired, to
which the driver of its omnibus will respond.
A plentiful supply of +Cabs+ is both at the railway and the custom-house
station of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is furnished with an
official tariff, which, though constantly changing, may be stated to
be--Between 6 A.M. and midnight, for a cab with one horse, the course,
1 fr.; the hour, 2 frs. With 2 horses, the course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2¼
frs. From midnight to 6 A.M. 75 c. extra. Portmanteaus not above 30
kilo., or 68⅘ lbs., 25 c. each. The hotel omnibuses charge each
passenger 1 fr.
_Hotels._--In the Rue Cannebière, ascending from the Port, are very fine
+Cafés+, and in the eastern continuation of it, the Rue Noailles, the
best +Hotels+. The Hôtel du Louvre et de la Paix; the Hôtel Noailles;
and the Hôtel Marseilles; all near each other, and charging from 12 to
20 frs. per day.
Less luxurious and expensive are: the Petit Louvre, No. 16 R.
Cannebière, over the office of Messageries Maritimes steamboats; between
the Port and the Bourse, the Hôtel de Genève, a comfortable house; on
the opposite side of the Rue Cannebière and near the opera house, the
Hôtel Beauveau; near it, in the R. Vacon, the *Hôtel des Colonies.
In and about the Cours Belsunce, where there are a large cab-stand and
an important tramway terminus, are some good second-class hotels, of
which the best is the Hotel des Phocéens, 28 R. des Récolettes. Rooms,
2½ frs.; Dinner, 3½ frs. with wine. Next it, at No. 26, is the Hôtel de
l’Europe, a “maison meublée,” in which good rooms, including service,
cost 2 frs. Breakfast and dinner can be had in the neighbouring
restaurants. Of them, one of the most comfortable is G. Restaurant des
Gourmets, adjoining the hotel. Near it is the Restaurant Bouches du
Rhône, a cheap house. The other second-class houses in the Cours
Belsunce which can be recommended are--the Californie; Deux Mondes;
Hotel St. Marie; Négociants; Alger. The Hôtel du Cours is good also, but
it is only a “maison meublée.” The continuation of the Cours Belsunce is
called the Cours St. Louis, where a flower-market is held. Just off this
Cours, in the Rue d’Aubagne, is a cheap, good, and clean house, the
hotel and restaurant St. Louis; rooms from 1½ to 3 frs.; dinner, à la
carte. At No. 8 Place de Rome is a good and cheap house, the Hôtel
Forer, well situated, but it is one of those for which either a cab or
the general omnibus must be taken at the station.
[Headnote: STEAMBOATS. CUSTOM-HOUSE.]
_Steamboats._--The steamers of the Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli et
Cie., of Fraissinet et Cie., of the P. and O. Navigation Co., etc.,
arrive and depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The custom-house is
at the north end of the dock, and just outside the dock-gates are
porters and a large cab-stand. The custom-house contains one
waiting-room for the first and second class, and another for the third.
Passengers before they can have their baggage examined have to pay 6
sous at the end of the baggage-room for each box, for which they receive
an acknowledgment. A tramway runs from No. 1 Quai Joliette to
Longchamps, entering the Port and the Rue Cannebière by the R. de la
République. There are no hotels near the steamboat station.
Small boats’ station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the
+Château d’If+, 8 frs. from 3 to 3½ hrs. On feast days small steamers
make the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same place, but
do not land the passengers, fare ½ fr., time 1 hr. At this part of the
quay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of oranges and
other fruits. From the Hôtel de Ville (1 in plan) on the port, the
Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles opposite, 1 sou. At
the mouth of the port, from between La Consigne and the Fort St. Jean,
other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin Carénage, by the side of
Fort St. Nicholas, and just below the interesting old church of St.
Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up to Notre Dame.
The principal Temple Protestant is in the R. Vincent, No. 2. There is
another in the R. Grignan, No. 15, near the General Post Office at No.
53. Poste-Restante, “guichet,” on the ground-floor, opposite the
entrance door. Telegraph office, No. 10 Rue Pavé d’Amour. Anglican
chapel, No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and parallel
to it. The public library is in the Boulevard du Musée, in the École des
Beaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday.
Best money-changers by the west side of the Bourse, 10 in plan.
The Opera is near the Port; the other theatres are around the Rue
Noailles.
[Map: Marseilles]
[Headnote: SIGHTS. TRAMS.]
+Sights.+--Palais Longchamp, an artistic edifice, containing the Picture
Gallery and the +Natural History Museum+; free. Closed on Mondays and
every day between 12 and 2 (see p. 114). Near the Palais is the
Zoological Garden, free on Sundays. Notre Dame de la Garde (p. 116). The
shops and cafés in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles. A drive on the
Corniche road.
Of all the +Trams+ the most important starts from the left of the statue
in the Cours Belsunce, and runs by the Château des Fleurs and the Prado
to its Bonneveine terminus, a little beyond the racecourse. Just behind
the Bonneveine terminus is the +Château Borély+, containing the Musée
d’Archéologie, including a collection of Phoenician relics found in the
neighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the Phoenician origin of
Marseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the ground-floor are Roman
mosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery, mummies; and in the end
room is a stone with a Phoenician inscription, regulating the tariff of
the prices to be paid to the priests for sacrifices in the temple of
Baal. Upstairs are collections of antique glass, necklaces, fayence from
Provence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons,
and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18 ft. in diameter.
[Headnote: CORNICHE. BOUILLABAISSE.]
Return from the Bonneveine terminus by the tram for the Place de Rome,
near 12 in plan. On its way it follows the Corniche road, considered the
most beautiful drive about Marseilles, fare ½ fr. The gardens and
pleasure-grounds in the whole of this neighbourhood are due to the
irrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing establishments on the
Corniche road the best is the Roucas Blanc; and of the restaurants the
best is the Hotel Roubion, a first-class house, charging 15 frs. per
day, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service, 5 frs. additional. The
house is situated on an eminence rising from the Corniche road, at the
entrance into the Vallon de l’Oriol, commands a splendid sea view, has
handsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its fish dinners and
Bouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly passing it. This
establishment, as well as most of the other restaurants along the
Corniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which is kept a
supply of live fish to make the Provence dish called Bouillabaisse,
a kind of fish soup, which, like most national dishes--plum-pudding,
puchero, haggis, etc.--admits of considerable latitude in the
preparation. The essentials are--whole rascasses and chapons (scorpion
fishes), and rock lobsters stewed in a liquor mixed with a little of the
best olive oil, and flavoured with tender savoury herbs. An extra good
Bouillabaisse should include also crayfish, a few mussels, and some
pieces of any first-class fish, such as the bass.
[Headnote: PALAIS DE LONGCHAMP.]
Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking a
short stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles,
enter the Joliette tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2
sous. +The Palais de Longchamp+, which cost £165,000, consists of two
rectangular wings, united by a semicircular colonnade of Ionic
volute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a richly-sculptured massive
archway, an inscription records that the great undertaking of bringing
the water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun on the 15th November
1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in the reign of Louis
Philippe I. Another records that the palace was commenced in the reign
of Napoleon III., on the 7th April 1862, and finished on the 15th August
1869. From a group of colossal bulls under the colonnade gushes a
copious stream of water, which in its descent makes a cascade of 90 ft.
in three stages. The wing to the right, standing with the face to the
palace, contains the Natural History Museum; and the other, the picture
and sculpture galleries.
All the pictures are labelled. On the first floor are some large
pictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small room
left hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the best
pictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are:--F. Bol, d.
1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland; Bourdon, d. 1671,
portrait of P. de Champaigne; Cesari, d. 1640, Noah inebriated;
Fontenay, d. 1715, Fruit; Girodet, d. 1824, Fruit; Gongo, d. 1764,
Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter; Greuze, d. 1805, portrait; Holbein, d.
1554, portrait; Loo, d. 1745, portrait of lady; Maratta, d. 1713,
Cardinal Cibo; Mignard, d. 1695, Ninon de Lenclos; Nattier, d. 1766,
Mme. de Pompadour as Aurora; Peeters, d. 1652, marine scene; Pellegrino,
d. 1525, Holy Family; Perugino, d. 1524, Holy Family; F. Porbus, d.
1584, portrait; Raphael, d. 1520, St. John; Rembrandt, d. 1669,
A Prophetess (sibyl); Reni, d. 1642, The Protectors of Milan; Ribera, d.
1656, Juan de Porcida; Rigaud, d. 1745, Duc de Villars; Rubens, d. 1640,
Wild-boar Hunt; Salvator Rosa, d. 1675, Hermit; Veronese, d. 1588,
Venetian princess; Zurbaran, d. 1662, St. Francis. In the room to the
right is the “+École Provençal+,” containing, among other
paintings--Barry, The Bosphorus; Duparc, d. 1778, The Milkmaid, and
portraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting; Papety, d. 1849, “La
Vierge Consolatrice”; P. Puget, Madonna. In the left room are, among
others, J. F. Millet, b. 1815, Woman feeding Child.
The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are the
conchological division and the collection of ammonites.
From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the palace,
on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. above the sea,
supplied with water from the main channel by a branch canal. (See under
Roquefavour, p. 77.) At this part of the hill is one of the entrances to
the Zoological Gardens; free on Sundays, when they are crowded with
people. Near the entrance is the +Observatory+, one of the most
important in France.
[Headnote: HÔTEL DE VILLE. LA CONSIGNE.]
The port of Marseilles has in all an area of 422 acres, and is protected
on the E. by Cape Croisette, and on the W. by Cape Couronne. Its
approaches are lighted by 6 lighthouses, of which the most distant is on
the Planier rock, 130 ft. above the sea, and 8 m. S.W. from Marseilles.
The large steam vessels lie in the dock La Joliette, covering 55 acres,
and finished in 1853; while the old-fashioned trading-vessels, with
their lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour called emphatically
the “Port,” containing 75½ acres. From the end of the “Port” extends
eastwards the handsome and greatly-frequented street La Cannebière, so
called from the rope-walks, whose site it now occupies. At nearly the
middle of the N. side of the “Port” is the +Hôtel de Ville+ (1 in plan),
built in the 17th cent., and adorned with sculpture by Puget, born at
Marseilles; while at the western extremity of the same side, next Fort
St. Jean, is a low building called La Consigne, or Health Office. Over
the chimney-piece in the council-room of the Consigne is a beautiful
relief in white marble by Puget, representing the plague at Milan. To
the right is a picture by Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunce
administering the sacrament to the plague-stricken inhabitants of
Marseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch before the Virgin, by David.
Fronting the windows, “The frigate Justice returning from Constantinople
with the plague on board,” “l’an 4 de la République.” Opposite the
fireplace, “The cholera on board the Melpomene,” by Horace Vernet. Next
it, by Guerin, “The Chevalier Rose assisting to bury those who had died
of the plague.” Between them is a Crucifixion by Auber. Between the two
windows is a portrait of Bishop Belsunce. (Fee, ½ fr.) Near the Consigne
is the pier of the ferry-boats. Above the Hôtel de Ville is the town
infirmary, and beyond it, on a terrace 30 ft. above the quay of
Joliette, [Headnote: CATHEDRAL. ARC DE TRIOMPHE.] the +Cathedral+,
a Byzantine basilica, 460 ft. from S. to N., and 165 ft. from E. to W.
at the transept; built of gray Florentine stone alternating with a
whitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of Arles. The nave is 52 ft.
wide, and the roof 82 ft. high. The great dome is 196 ft. high. Behind
the cathedral are the Episcopal palace (5 in plan), the Seminary (4),
and the Hospice de la Charité (7). Eastwards, in the Place d’Aix, is the
+Arc de Triomphe+, an imitation of the arch of Titus at Rome, commenced
on the 4th November 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Duc
d’Angoulême in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. high and 58
ft. wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of the
battles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similar
statuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz.
Over the arch is the inscription-- “_A la République_.” From the arch a
steep street, the R. d’Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce, with at the
N. end a statue of Bishop Belsunce, “pour perpetuer le souvenir de sa
charité et de son dévouement durant la peste; qui desola Marseille” in
1720. By the side of it are the terminus of the Bonneveine tram (p. 113)
and the Alcazar Lyrique, a kind of superior café chantant.
[Headnote: BOURSE.]
The continuation southwards of the Cours is the Rue de Rome, and farther
S. the spacious Promenade du Prado. At the S. end of the Cours are, to
the right the R. Cannebière, and to the left the R. Noailles, the two
best streets in Marseilles. At the W. or Port end of the former is the
+Bourse+ (marked 10 in the plan), a parallelogramic building, 154 feet
broad by 223 long, erected between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60
feet by 94, is ornamented with mural paintings. In the vestibule are
allegorical statues of Marseilles and France, and a bas-relief
representing Marseilles receiving productions from all parts of the
world. On the opposite side of the street, by the R. de Paradis, are the
Opera-house, the Palais de Justice, and the Préfecture (12 in plan). The
Palais de Justice, built in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pediment
and peristyle bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force,
Prudence, etc. The outer hall, the “Salle des Pas-Perdus,” is surrounded
by 16 columns of red marble. The Préfecture is a splendid edifice in the
Renaissance style, 300 ft. long by 260 ft. wide, adorned with statues
and bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalier
d’honneur, communicating with handsome reception-room ornamented with
mural paintings.
From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of +Notre Dame de
la Garde+, one of the principal sights, and the most prominent object in
Marseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the right by the Cours
Pierre-Puget, traverse the pretty promenade, the Jardin de Colline, and
then ascend the narrow road, the Montée des Oblats. On descending be
careful to take the path to the left of the stone altar under a canopy
on 4 columns. A small omnibus drives up the length of the Plateau de la
Croix, whence a series of 178 steps has to be ascended to attain to the
terrace on which the church stands, 535 ft. above the sea. The church is
shut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps, can always
be visited. Fee, ½ fr. It is 148 ft. high, crowned with a gilded image
of Mary 30 ft. high, ascended by steps in the interior to the head. The
view, which is just as good from the terrace, commands the whole of
Marseilles. To the N.E. the culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166 ft.; to
the S.E. is the Montagne de Carpiagne, 1873 ft.; and S. from it Mont
Puget, 1798 ft. In front of Marseilles are the islands Ratonneau and
Pomègue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is the
little island of If (p. 118). Off Cape Croisette are the islands of
Maïre and Peirot. The road down the little ravine (the Valon de l’Oriol)
leads to the Corniche.
NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE.
Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of an
upper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. high. The
interior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilasters
and columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altar
in the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It is
about 6 ft. high, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, and
made of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting the
face and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 cwt. 1 qr. and 14
lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all of
silver. The walls are covered with expressions of gratitude to it, and
with pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculous
interposition was displayed.
[Headnote: LYCÉE.]
From the streets Cannebière and Noailles other handsome streets ramify,
such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the Cours
Liautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the +Lycée+ or head grammar-school,
and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliothèque et l’École des
Beaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the Boulevard du
Musée, 177 ft. long by 164 ft. wide. On the ground-floor are the
class-rooms, and on the first story, the library, the collection of
medals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. long by 19½ wide. Among the medals
are 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 95,000 vols. and
1300 manuscripts.
[Headnote: SAINT VICTOR.]
At the mouth of the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and the
Bassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in Marseilles,
+Saint Victor+, all that remains of one of the most famous monasteries
in Christendom, founded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained deacon of the
church in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of St. Victor
resembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal and uncouth
square towers, the two largest at the N. side having been added by Pope
Urban V., a former abbot of the monastery. Over the entrance door under
these towers is a rude representation of St. George and the dragon. The
upper church dates only from the beginning of the 13th cent. Near the
sacristy in the S. side a stair of 32 steps leads down to the original
church, a large and spacious crypt. Of this crypt the most ancient part
is the small chapel shut off from the rest, with several tombs hewn in
the rock. Among those buried here were St. Victor, and, according to the
tradition of the place, Lazarus also, who is said to have died at
Marseilles. The ancient appearance of this chapel is marred by a modern
altar with a stone reredos, sculptured, it is said, by Puget. The shaft
of one of the columns has a sculptured rope coiled round it. Pieces of
ornamental sculpture are seen at different parts of the crypt, and
remnants of a fresco painting. This also is the sanctuary of a
miraculous wooden image of Mary and Child, said to have been carved by
Luke. It is of a dark colour, is 3½ ft. high, and is called Notre Dame
de Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds of votaries from
the 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the sarcophagi have been
removed to the museum in the Château Borély (p. 113). At the foot of the
eminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the Bassin
de Carénage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four minutes to
the other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is Saint
Vincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th cent.
[Headnote: ISLAND OF IF.]
_Excursions._--The principal excursion from Marseilles is to the +Island
of If+, with its old château built by Francis I., long used as a state
prison. Boats for the excursion lie at the Cannebière end of the Port.
They charge from 5 to 9 frs.; but it is necessary to arrange the price
before starting. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks, whence
a stair ascends to the terrace, on which are, to the right the entrance
to the Château, and a little to the left a restaurant. A man conducts
visitors over the castle, of which the most interesting parts are the
cell of Monte Christo, and the place where he was thrown over into the
sea.
Marseilles to Martigues, 24 m. N.W. by rail (see map on p. 66). At
Martigues station omnibus for Port Bouc, 3¾ m. W.; fare, ½ fr. From Port
Bouc rail to Miramas, or steamboat by the canal to Arles (see p. 76).
After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is L’Estaque
(see p. 80), 7 m. W., with large brick and tile works, at the foot of a
wooded hill. 4¼ m. farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn close to the
station. Here the Martigues branch separates from the main line, and the
Martigues passengers change carriages. Here also an omnibus awaits
passengers for Marignane, 3¾ m. W. on Lake Marignane, pop. 7000. Remains
of castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake Marignane is separated from
Lake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The train after passing Marignane
station arrives at the station for Châteauneuf, a village S. towards the
hills.
[Headnote: MARTIGUES. INDUSTRIES.]
+Les Martigues+, pop. 10,000. At station, omnibus for the inn, Hôtel du
Cours, and omnibus for Port Bouc. Martigues is situated on both sides of
the outlet from Lake Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, all
connected by bridges. The railway station, the hotel, and a large part
of the town are on the E. or Jonquière side. On the first or smallest of
the 3 islets are the Tribunal de la Pèche and the fish-market; on the
middle one is the Hôtel de Ville; and on the third and largest are the
hospital and the parish church with sculptured portals. On the N. side
of the canal is the part of the town called Ferrières, containing the
harbour and the reservoirs for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is the
principal industry of the inhabitants.
There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The infirmary
(Hôtel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can accommodate 750
patients. The workhouse (Hospice de la Charité) contains generally from
600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near the Prado is the
Hôpital de la Concepcion, with 800 beds.
The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories,
with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65,000 tons, valued at
£2,000,000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil and
chemical works; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55,000
tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ
2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentrated
acids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at
£320,000. Metallurgy is another great industry; a large quantity of ore,
imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast furnaces
of St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and yards,
together with other private companies, have large workshops for the
construction or repair of marine steam-engines, and for every branch of
iron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Marseilles is a
great centre for the extraction of silver from lead ore; 16,000 tons of
lead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated annually.
[Headnote: COMMERCE. HISTORY.]
_Commerce._--The chief imports in point of bulk are cereals from the
Black Sea, Turkey, and Algeria; but the one of greatest value, raw silk,
£4,000,000 yearly, comes from Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, and
Japan. Then follow metals, ores, timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice.
The principal exports in respect of value are silk, woollen and cotton
fabrics, refined sugars, wines and spirits; those of greatest bulk are
cereals in the form of flour, building materials, oil-cakes,
manufactures in metal, oils, glass and crystal.
_History._--The Greek colony of Massalia (in Latin, _Massilia_) was
founded by the enterprising mariners of Phocæa in Asia Minor, about 600
B.C. After the ravages of successive streams of invaders it was
repeopled in the 10th century under the protection of its viscounts. In
1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed into a republic,
governed by a podestat, appointed for life. In the remainder of the
Middle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified, the higher town was
governed by the bishop, and had its harbour at the creek of La Joliette.
The southern suburb was governed by the abbot of St. Victor, and owned
the Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town, situated between the
two, retained the old harbour, and was the most powerful of the three
divisions. The period of the Crusades brought great prosperity to
Marseilles. King René made it his winter residence. Louis XIV. came in
person to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under the Fronde. He took
the town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas constructed. Marseilles
repeatedly suffered from the plague, and an epidemic raged from May 1720
to May 1721 with a severity for which it is almost impossible to find a
parallel; Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose, and others immortalised
themselves by their courage and devotion.
During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the aristocracy,
who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Terror they
rebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by General
Carteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to their
maritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants against
Napoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received a
considerable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of the
Suez Canal.
[Headnote: THE MARSEILLAISE.]
_The Marseillaise._--The famous anthem called “The Marseillaise” was
composed by Joseph Rouget de l’Isle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on the
10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi, 6¼ m.
S. from Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th April 1792,
the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers, Dietrich,
the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their officers, and during
dinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to compose a
war-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired to his
room, he had both the music and the words ready before going to bed. In
the morning he handed the paper to his host, saying: “_Tenez, voilá ce
que vous m’avez demandé, mais j’ai peur que cela ne soit pas trop bon._”
“_Que dites vous mon ami?_” said Dietrich, after casting his eye over
the MS.; “_vous avez fait un chef-d’œuvre._” The mayor’s wife having
tried it on the piano, the orchestra of the theatre were engaged to
perform it in the principal square of Strasburg, when such was the
enthusiasm it created that the detachment marched off with nearly 1000
instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the air “Le Chant de
guerre de l’armée du Rhin.” In July of the same year a detachment of
volunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of Barbaroux, and
as they were in the habit of singing this song both on their march and
in the capital it received the name of the “Hymne des Marseillais.”
Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the scaffold June
1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the fall of the
monarchy. He belonged to the party called the Girondins.
MARSEILLES TO MENTON.
BY HYÈRES, CANNES, NICE, AND MONACO. 155 MILES.
See Maps, pages 113, 155, and 185.
miles from MARSEILLES
miles to MENTON
{ }{155}
+MARSEILLES.+ See under “Marseilles, Toulon, Nice et Menton” in the
“Indicateur.” The train, after leaving Marseilles on its way to Toulon,
traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded by
mountains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the stream
Huveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseilles
canal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel, with the
chapel of N. D. de Nazareth, and St. Menet, and La Penne, all situated
at the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to October,
a coach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the cold mineral
baths of Camoins, 2 m. distant, or 5 m. by omnibus from Marseilles. The
bathing establishment is about ¼ m. from the village, in an undulating
hollow, among plane trees, olives, and vines. The water is cold, and
contains iron and iodine, with a great deal of sulphur. It is very
effective as a tonic, and in diseases of the liver. The establishment is
quiet but comfortable. Pension 8 to 9 frs. per day.
10½ m. from Marseilles is +Aubagne+, pop. 8100. H. Notre Dame. Omnibus
daily to Marseilles, stopping at H. St. Louis. Every train halts at
Aubagne. Junction with loop-line to Valdonne, 10½ m. N., with coal-mines
and potteries. Coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where take rail.
After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and, if
a slow train, halts at the next station, Cassis, a pleasant fishing
village in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont Gardiole
(to the west), culminating point 1800 ft., and Mont de Canaille (to the
east), culminating point 1365 ft. _Inn:_ Hotel and Pension Liautaud. An
omnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents. A very pretty path,
passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a forest of pines on the
sides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat, 6½ m. east by this road, and
23 m. from Marseilles by rail. The station for La Ciotat is 2½ m. from
the town, but an omnibus awaits passengers. _Inn:_ H. de l’Univers, at
the head of a well-protected harbour, nearly encircled by two strong
stone jetties. At the western side of the little bay is a curious
promontory, the Bec de l’Aigle (well seen from the station), composed of
three lofty rocks in a row, perpendicular on the W. side. Beyond the
point is the small island Ile Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishing
is carried on in +La Ciotat+; but the main business of the place is
derived from the great shipbuilding yards of the Messageries Maritimes,
which may be said to employ directly and indirectly the whole town.
[Map: Marseilles to Cannes]
4¼ m. beyond La Ciotat, or 27¼ from Marseilles, is the pretty village of
St. Cyr, close to the station. 4¼ m. farther is the station for Bandol,
a fishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small islands. The
industries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in fields on the
plain and on terraces on the sides of the hills.
36 m. E. from Marseilles is the station Ollioules-St.-Nazaire, where
omnibuses await passengers for St. Nazaire, pop. 2500, a port on the
Mediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, _Inn:_ Trotobas; situated a
short way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by limestone
cliffs, which, about 2 m. up the river, are so close to each other as to
form a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the brigand Gaspard de
Besse. The great industry of Ollioules, Nazaire, and Bandol is the
culture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths, are sent all
over France. The largest and best cost 24 frs. the dozen. Yellow is the
natural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed or bleached.
They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges and lemons
grow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place of
Ollioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset,
pop. 3000. _Inn:_ France.
[Headnote: LA SEYNE. SIX FOURS.]
38½ m. E. from Marseilles, and 6 m. W. from Toulon, is +La Seyne+
station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the town, pop. 11,000, H. de
la Méditerranée, situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between which
two ports there is constant communication by steamers. Near the hotel is
the office of the omnibus for Tamaris, a village 1¼ m. S.E., at the foot
of Fort Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. The omnibus
returns by Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through La
Seyne, from which Reynier is 3 m. W. On the hill above Reynier are the
new fort and what remains of the ancient village of +Six Fours+, once a
town of importance. The greater part of the crumbling walls has been
cleared away, and in their stead a strong fort has been built, which
occupies the entire summit of the hill. The old church still remains, of
which the earliest part, 6th cent., is at the entrance extending east
and west, and was originally the whole building. To the right hand are
two stone altars (6th cent.), with windows behind them to give light to
the officiating priest, who at that time said mass with his face to the
audience. The nave, extending N. and S., was added in the 15th cent. It
contains a Madonna by Puget, and some pictures on wood of the 15th cent.
Under the church is a large cistern, formerly, according to the “Annales
de Six Fours,” the chapel or house where Mary, sent by her brother
Lazarus, told the inhabitants about Jesus. She was buried in the crypt
of St. Maximin (p. 143).
TOULON.
42 m. E. from Marseilles, 13 m. W. from Hyères, 22 m. S. from
Carnoulles, 59 m. S.W. from St. Raphael, 79 m. S.W. from Cannes, 98½ m.
S.W. from Nice, and 113 m. S.W. from Menton, is +Toulon+, pop. 71,000
(see maps, pp. 123 and 129). _Hotels:_ near the station, the Grand
Hotel, a large first-class house; a little farther and near the post,
the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and the Louvre; in
the Place Puget is the Nord, and at No. 15 an office where carriages can
be hired for Mont Faron and other excursions. From this “Place” start
the omnibuses for Hyères, 11 m. E. by the road; also omnibuses for
Ollioules and Beausset. The porpoises and scallop shells on the fountain
in the centre of the “Place” are by Puget. In the Place d’Armes is the
H. Place d’Armes, fronting the Arsenal and the Promenade, where the band
plays on Sundays.
The omnibuses for Cap Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, La Valette, La
Garde, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrières,
Cuers, Solliès-Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, Neroules, and Brignoles, start
from the Place d’Italie at the east end of Toulon. In this “Place” are
the inns H. Petit, St. Jean, and H. Croix-Blanche. (For the above places
see maps, pp. 123 and 129.) In the Place Puget are several cheap
restaurants. The best restaurants are on the quay of the port.
[Headnote: THE QUAI DU PORT.]
+The Quai du Port.+--The bronze statue on this quay, representing
Navigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in front
of the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for Saint
Mandrier, 3½ m. S., and for the Iles d’Hyères. More to the right is the
berth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the hulk of
the famous _Belle Poule_, covered with a roof of sloping planks. This
was the vessel in which Napoleon’s body was brought from St. Helena and
deposited in the Hôtel des Invalides on the 15th December 1840. The
Chamber of Deputies granted £40,000 to defray the expenses of the
expedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville, with
whom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, and
Marchand the Emperor’s valet, all the latest and most devoted of
Napoleon’s adherents. On the 16th October the coffin was opened, when
the body was found in an excellent state of preservation. On that same
day the remains were embarked on board the _Belle Poule_, and on the
18th the ship set sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, where
the body was transferred to the steamboat _Normandie_, which conveyed it
up the Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a most magnificent
car.
[Headnote: CAB FARES. THE ARSENALS.]
_Cab fares._--The course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.
The strongly-fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising gradually
from the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east and west,
and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour on either
side. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort Croix and
large barracks; to the east is La Platrière, 1000 ft., and immediately
behind it Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft, and
behind it Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort;
while from the water’s edge at the west end of the port rises Fort
Malbousquet. Similarly situated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, the
last held by the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious and
most secure roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the Port
Marchand and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail.
Then follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy,
all communicating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded by
well-built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are the
arsenals and the establishments connected with them, which are on a
scale of almost unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, and
employing above 10,000 men. Near the west end of the Port a large
gateway with marble columns forms the entrance into the “Arsenal
Maritime,” covering 240 acres, and containing a general storehouse, 100
forge fires, two covered building-slips, a ropery 1050 feet long, and an
armoury with at the entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle by
Puget. Adjoining is the Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on piles
along the bay towards La Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, and
ship-equipment departments.
Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines and
sailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all the
characteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound,
from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little café chantant, where
gaudily-dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. The
most pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharf
fronting the town-dock is called. As long as the sun is above the
horizon it shines there, consequently during the cold season it is
crowded with all kinds of people, most of whom, unfortunately, are
poisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are good cafés and
restaurants, and booksellers’ shops where plans of the town and
neighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in November
1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human life
recorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad with
vengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their countrymen, not sparing even
those of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith, amidst
the flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and imploring
cries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and embarking
some 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military genius the
discomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted himself to the
utmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage.
[Headnote: TOWN HALL.]
Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the +Town Hall+,
adorned with two admirable caryatides by Pierre Puget. In front is the
statue representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind is
the corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories of
nearly square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being the
smallest. The small side has three windows in each row, and the large
four, the windows of the first three rows over the doorway being in
couples. On the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and under
the eaves a projecting dentil cornice.
The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is the
Rue Lafayette, a broad avenue lined with shops and shaded with immense
lime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends round to
the Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a fruit,
flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the narrow
five-storied house, at No. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-balls
fired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above.)
At the Port end of the street is the “Place,” whence the omnibus starts
for Mourillon; also the church of St. François de Paule. The interior
contains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar to
the left represents one of the interviews between J. C. and Marguerite
Alacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents Mary
announcing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the “conceived
without sin.”
[Headnote: SAINTE-MARIE-MAJEURE.]
The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, between
houses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of +Sainte-Marie-Majeure+,
commenced in the 11th cent., and finished in the 18th. The exterior is
unattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft over the entrance
is of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar in the chapel to
the right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier. The tabernacle
and the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to have executed
also the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel representing the
apostles looking into the empty tomb of Mary. Over the arch of the
chapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by Canova.
Several very good pictures adorn the church.
[Headnote: ST. MANDRIER. MONT FARON.]
All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest are
those which cross to La Seyne (p. 123). The steamers for the Iles
d’Hyères and for St. Mandrier sail also from this wharf. The St.
Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily, calling first at
Balaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort Aiguillette to the
north and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter being easily
recognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses are situated
towards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of Fort
Balaguier is Le Tamarin, or Tamaris, consisting chiefly of pretty villas
in luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind Tamaris
rises Fort Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellent
carriage-road leads up to the top. It commences near the neck of land of
the peninsula of Cepet. An omnibus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier,
and La Seyne. The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses the
roads or Rade du Lazaret and enters the small bay of St. Mandrier. At
the landing-place is a comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. per day.
Round the point, in a warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St.
Mandrier, with 1200 beds, one of the most important establishments of
this kind in France. It occupies three sides of a parallelogram, has a
handsome chapel, and a great cistern vaulted with concentric circles.
Adjoining is a large and well-sheltered garden with orange trees.
Visitors are readily admitted. In Toulon, near the Place d’Armes, is the
Hôpital de la Marine, exclusively for the navy. Although well ordered,
it is hardly sufficiently ventilated.
One of the most interesting walks is to the top of Mont Faron, 1792 feet
above the sea. From the Porte Notre Dame, at the E. end of Toulon, take
the broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across the
railway. Then passing one of the artillery establishments, leave the
town by the Port of Ste. Anne--the name is on the gateway. From this the
real road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle ascent and
continuous windings ever unfolding the most lovely views of the town and
the bay. When not far from the summit three roads meet. The road to the
left goes to the barracks and to the top. The nearly level road to the
right goes to Fort Faron, and the steep road to the left to Fort de la
Croix on a rock above Fort Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valette
side of the mountain. The summit consists of a stony tableland, from
which rise knolls of various elevations. It can be done in a carriage.
[Headnote: LA VALETTE. MONT COUDON. CAP BRUN.]
_Toulon Omnibuses._--Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best are
to +Hyères+ (p. 133) by La Valette, and to the village of Dardenne, on a
stream in the picturesque valley between Mont Faron on the right or S.
side and the steep Tourris mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426
ft. high. As far as the omnibus goes the road is good. The road
eastwards through the valley leads to La Valette, and the short road
northward to the village of Le Revest, on the top of an eminence
commanding a good view of the ravine of the Dardenne. The village of +La
Valette+, pop. 1700, is 3¼ m. E. from Toulon and 7¾ W. from Hyères by
the omnibus. The carving on the church door, representing John writing
the book of Revelation in the island of Patmos, is said to have been
done by Puget. From this village the ascent is made of Mt. Coudon, 2305
ft., in about 2½ hours. “From Mt. Coudon there are grand views in all
directions. I have sought for them a great deal, and seen a great many,
but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the graceful yet bold
indentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon.” --_George Sand._ A
carriage-road leads up to the very top, but unfortunately, when only a
few feet from the summit, farther progress is stopped by a fort, and the
best of the view lost. Commence the ascent from the narrow lane opposite
the Hôtel de Ville, and, once on the high road, never leave it. On the
way up many very beautiful land and sea views disclose themselves.
The next best omnibus-drives are to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite,
eastward on the coast, and to Le Pradet, a village N.E. from Ste.
Marguerite, on the road to Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from the
Place d’Italie. Although this road skirts the coast, very little of it
is seen on account of hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste.
Marguerite are both forts on cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east
of the Fort Ste. Marguerite is the village, consisting of a few houses,
with a small chapel among villas and cottages scattered over the slope
of an eminence rising from a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable
village a little to the S. of La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned
with the ruins of a castle, forms a marked feature in the landscape. At
Cap Brun is the villa of Sir Charles Dilke.
[Map: Environs of Toulon & Hyères]
[Headnote: MOURILLON. BELGENTIER.]
The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of Mourillon, 3½ m. E., behind
Fort La Malgue or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or Cours
Lafayette.
_Diligence Drives._--+Toulon to Meounes+, 19¼ m. N. by diligence from
the Place d’Italie. Time, 3 hrs.; fare, 2½ frs. (see map, p. 117).
The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlède 4¾ m., and
Solliès-Ville, arrives at Solliès-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and
10½ m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The
diligence halts near the inn H. du Commerce, where passengers from
Hyères can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles passes by the
same way, but at an earlier hour. From Solliès-Pont commences the
beautiful part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau
between lofty and precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are
covered with large olive trees, and the plain with fields and
vineyards and numerous cherry trees. Nearly 2 m. farther up the
valley, but on the other side of the Gapeau, is Solliès-Toucas (328
ft.), situated in a sheltered nook. 5 m. higher up, and 12½ m. from
Toulon, is Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier), on both sides of the
Gapeau. The horses are changed here. The inn (auberge), which is
indifferent, is round the corner to the right. From Belgentier the
olives cease to be continuous. The diligence, after passing the
flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft., arrives at the best headquarters in the
valley, Meounes, 919 ft., on the stream Naille, an affluent of the
Gapeau, 3½ m. N. from Belgentier, 8¾ m. N. from Solliès-Pont, 6 m. E.
from Signes, 4¾ m. S. from Roquebrussane, 12 m. S.E. from Le Camp,
5 m. S. from Garéoules, and 7½ m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway
station, which is 7 m. E. by rail from Brignoles (see map,
p. 123).
[Headnote: MEOUNES. MONTRIEUX.]
The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking
the village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are
the words “Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge
of sinners, pray for us.” On the fourth side “June 1870.” Eastward is
a great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the
eastern and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern.
Going round from south to east the culminating points reach the
elevations of 1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft, 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326
ft., and 2060 ft. Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of
various elevations, occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and
most of the paths which traverse this region are excessively
stony.
Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian
Monastery of Montrieux (pronounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft.
above the sea. To go to it descend the high road for about 1½ m. to a
bridge and first road right, which take. A little way up, the road
divides into two; take the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The
building, which is prettily situated, is small, and contains only
about from 30 to 35 inmates. It was founded in 1117, and had very
large possessions, which, with the house, were taken from the monks at
the fatal revolution of 1793. In 1845 the building was repurchased,
along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars
from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The
Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their
rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same
room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have
each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps
and feeds by himself. Both affirm: “Nous ne permettons jamais aux
femmes d’entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage,
ni le prophète, ni le juge, ni l’hôte de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni même
le premier modèle sorti de ses mains, n’ont pu échapper aux caresses
ou aux tromperies des femmes.” A nearer but very stony path,
commencing opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the
convent.
Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by
Roquebrussane, the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Garéoules, and the
Toulon coach to Garéoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is
monotonous, and the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to
Brignoles 3 frs., distance 15 miles. (For Brignoles, see p. 142.)
[Headnote: LA CRAU. CUERS. PIERREFEU. COLLOBRIÈRES.]
+Toulon to Collobrières.+--From the Place d’Italie a coach starts
daily to Collobrières, 25 m. N.E. by E., passing through La Valette
3¼ m., La Garde with its castle 5 m., and +La Crau+ 7½ m. _Inn:_ H. de
France. Beyond the inn are the post and telegraph offices, and a few
yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau, the halting and meeting place of
this diligence with the coach that runs between Hyères and La
Crau.
From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18 m. from Toulon,
where the horses are changed near the first terrace, a little higher
than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds to Collobrières,
up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2½ frs.; time, 4½
hrs. Excursionists from Hyères should await the diligence at La Crau,
where it arrives about 4 P.M.; or take the rail to +Cuers+ station,
and then the courrier, which leaves Toulon every forenoon for
Collobrières, passing through Pierrefeu (p. 142).
From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or
less undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat
fields. The Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyères with water, is
crossed a few yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to
Pierrefeu takes a northerly direction up the valley of the
Real-Martin, the principal affluent of the Gapeau. Pierrefeu, pop.
4000, is a dirty village on a hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with
narrow, crooked, steep streets. From the terrace there is a pleasing
view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu the coach ascends the valley
of the Réal-Collobrier to +Collobrières+, pop. 3600, on an eminence
rising from the stream. _Inn:_ H. de Notre Dame, near the diligence
office, good and clean. The office of the courrier is in the principal
street, near the Post and the Hôtel de Ville with the promenade. From
the top of the hill, where stands the old church, now abandoned, is an
excellent view of the valley. The lower part is covered with fields
and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees. On the side of the
mountains facing the north are forests of chestnut trees, some very
old and of most fantastic forms, while on the opposite side are
forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting, wine-making, and the
exportation of chestnuts form the principal industries. The wine, when
four years old, makes an agreeable vin ordinaire. In the tenth year it
is at its best, when it becomes straw-coloured.
A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to
Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and
Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is
the chapel of N. D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea.
[Headnote: ISLES D’OR. PORQUEROLLES.]
+The Islands of Hyères, or the Iles d’Or.+
Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs., fare
2 frs.; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and back
to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les Salins
of Hyères to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and Port-Cros.
The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck
of the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the
massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to
the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La
Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and
southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital
of St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyères is afterwards
seen distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles
the steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of
Giens (see p. 140, and map, p. 123).
Porquerolles, pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of
2 miles. The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern
coast is low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it
terminates in vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The
vegetation is nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the
mountains, while the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards
and fields. The climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained
from wells. Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants
are found in the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium
minutulum, Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea,
Genista linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus
olbiensis.
The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N.
side of the island, exactly opposite Hyères, and 9 m. from Les Salins.
The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor
alongside. In the “Place,” quite close to the pier, are the church,
the museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the
two inns, of which the H. du Progrès is the larger of the two. Above
the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small
buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison.
There are three main roads in the island--the road by the N. coast
westward is called the +Chemin du Langoustier+, the road by the N.
coast eastward the +Chemin des Mèdes+, and the road up the centre of
the island, from N. to S., the +Chemin au Phare+. This last road
commences at the N.W. corner of the “Place” and terminates at the
lighthouse on Cap d’Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210
ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70
steps, is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light.
The first road right from the N.W. corner of the “Place” is the Chemin
du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively
open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to
the left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most
ancient structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed
soda manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie,
a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the sea.
The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Mèdes, traverses the
most fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it
passes round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose
summit, 479 ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station,
commanding a perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the
other islands, of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyères, and of the coast
to beyond Cannes, is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road
right at the commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement
looks as if it led up the plain. The Chemin des Mèdes terminates at a
farmhouse called Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the
continuation is by a path leading to a fort on Cap des Mèdes, to the
N. of a hill 449 ft. high.
[Headnote: PORT-CROS. PORT MAN. LEVANT.]
+Port-Cros.+--11½ m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of
Port-Cros, 12½ m. S. from Les Salins, on the western side of the
island, at the head of a small landlocked bay. An inn is near the
pier. The main road extends from the landing-place up the valley by
the church and the proprietor’s house to +Port Man+ at the eastern end
of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded ridge, whose
culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea; it is 2½ m.
from S.W. to N.E., and 1½ m. from N. to S., and contains 1482 acres.
The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are similar--mica, schist, and
quartz. Round the coast are numerous little coves with tiny smooth
beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had at all times.
About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more
sterile island of the +Levant+, 5 m. from E. to W., and 1½ from N. to
S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the Pierres
Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the sea.
Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound.
+Toulon to Hyères.+
+Toulon to Hyères.+--Passengers at Toulon for Hyères, 11 m. E., can go
either by the omnibus, which starts three times daily from the Place
Puget, fare 1 fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by train. If by rail they
should examine the Indicateur, and select a direct train, otherwise
they may have to wait some time at La Pauline, where the branch line
commences by La Crau to Hyères, 13 miles by rail from Toulon.
[Headnote: HOTELS.]
HYÈRES,
pop. 13,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the
nearest to England, and only 18¼ hours from Paris. It is not so gay as
Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; but
none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety
of charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches.
The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is ¾ m.
S. from Hyères, and ¾ m. N. from the Hermitage.
_Hotels._--At the west of the town are the Hôtel des Palmiers, below the
Place des Palmiers; the *Iles d’Or, with garden off the main road; the
H. Continental, on an eminence above the Iles d’Or. These three are
first-class houses, and charge per day from 15 to 20 frs., including
bedroom, service, wine, candles, and three meals with coffee or tea in
the morning. Next the Iles d’Or is the Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off the
main street are the Ambassadeurs and the Europe, both from 10 to 12
frs., frequented chiefly by those who come only for a few days. At the
east end of Boulevard des Palmiers the H. du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. On
opposite side, and well situated for the sun, is the second-class house,
the H. Iles d’Hyères, 7 to 10 frs. Near it, but not well situated, is
the Méditerranée, third-class. The principal hotel on the east side of
Hyères is the H. Orient, 10 to 13 frs., a comfortable and
old-established house, opposite the public gardens. Farther east, and
off the high road to St. Tropez, is the Beau-Séjour, from 12 to 15 frs.
Down by one of the roads to the sea is the H. des Étrangers, 10 to 13
frs., in a sunny situation. About 1½ m. S. from Hyères, near the
Hermitage chapel, but in a sheltered nook overlooking one of the warmest
and most favoured valleys of the Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Hôtel
and Pension de l’Hermitage, 9 to 12 frs., retired and comfortable, and
frequented chiefly by English. As it is near the sea, in a forest of
pines and cork oaks, it combines the advantages of Arcachon with those
of Hyères. All the above prices include tea or coffee in the morning,
and meat breakfast and dinner, with wine to both. Abundance of furnished
apartments and villas to let. In the Place des Palmiers are a French and
an English bank. Both exchange money. In the same “Place” is the Temple
Protestant, and a little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopal
chapel is in the Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the west
end of the town.
There are several clubs; the best are the Siècle and the Progrès, which
take in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations on
the Riviera, all the first-class clubs or “cercles” have large
gambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo.
_Cab fares._--Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and 2
horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs.
[Headnote: DRIVES. COACHES.]
_Drives._--A 3 to 4 hours’ drive in a coach with 1 horse costs 6 to
8 frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs., but, as there is no recognised
tariff, it is necessary in every case to settle the price beforehand.
The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and back by the road between the
Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1 horse, 8 frs. The same price to La
Crau, round by the west side of Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley
of the Gapeau. The great drive, forming a good day’s excursion, is to
the Chartreuse of Montrieux, 18 m. N., by La Crau, Solliès-Pont
(a railway station), and Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (For
description, see p. 129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25 frs. there and back.
The other great drive (costing the same) is to the Fort of Brégançon, 16
miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux Salins, at the
eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north towards the St.
Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7 m. from Hyères) amidst large olive
trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of the plain called La
Plage Largentière, in which is situated the Château de Bormettes, built
by Horace Vernet (7½ m. E. from Hyères). A little farther east, on the
Plage de Pellegrin, are the châteaux of Léoubes (11 m.) and Brégançon;
and, on the western point of Cap Bénat, Fort Brégançon, about 4 miles
west of Bormes. (For Bormes, see p. 142.) Another pleasant drive is to
Cuers, 14 m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that
ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the
Vallée de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passes
by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive
trees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines. Besides
these excursions there are a great many little drives which may be taken
in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges of the
Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected, as
some parts of the roads are not good.
_Coaches._--From the Place de la Rade start daily coaches for
Carqueyranne 6¼ m. W., for Les Vieux Salins 4 m. E., for La Crau 4½ m.
N. (see p. 130), and for St. Tropez 32½ m. E., whence a steamer sails to
St. Raphael. Near the “Place,” opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du Var,
start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette (see
maps, pp. 123 and 129).
[Headnote: MASSILLON.]
+Hyères proper+ is a little dirty town of narrow streets, running up the
south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all the other winter
stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets and villas, has far
outgrown the original limits. A plain, 2 m. wide, is between the town
and the sea. The beautifully-wooded Maure mountains surround it on the
land side, mitigating the keenness of the north, north-east, and east
winds, but affording indifferent protection from the mistral or
north-west wind. The Toulon road, extending east and west, forms the
principal thoroughfare. On it, and in its proximity, are the best shops
and the best hotels. From it rise the steep streets of the old town, of
which two of the gateways still exist. At the east end, fronting the
Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins, and at the west end the Porte
Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these two stood the principal
gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the street R. Portalet leads
directly up to the *Place Massillon, containing the fish-market, a bust
of Massillon, and the Maison des Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hôtel de
Ville. Standing with the face towards the Hôtel de Ville, we have to the
left a dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the
house, No. 7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of
France, was born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared
sedate, without gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to
the Court at Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on
Louis XIV. that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court-- “Father,
I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with them, but
whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself.” The language of
Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and just,
without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first time in
the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew vii.
14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose from
their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopœia, which still
astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the article
“Eloquence” in the _Encyclopédie_ as an example presenting “_la figure
la plus hardie, et l’un des plus beaux traits d’éloquence qu’on puisse
lire chez les anciens et les modernes_.” His father, who spelt his name
Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from father to son
in the same house from 1647 to 1834.
[Headnote: ST. PAUL.]
Above the “Place” is the church of St. Paul, 12th cent., on a terrace
commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar
represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to
the church is an ancient baptismal font.
[Headnote: ST. LOUIS.]
At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la République, is
the church of St. Louis, built in the 12th cent. in the Byzantine style
and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the entrance. The
quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned arches. The
pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls display elegance
and originality of design in the form and arrangement of the canopies.
The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are set into the wall.
Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and remarkable picture
representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen and their 3
children on the beach of Hyères (the Plage du Ceinturon) on the 12th of
July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand de Foz in
the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St. Louis
about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain in this
square, the Place de la République, represents Charles of Anjou and
Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX. In
1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which
event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to
the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he
dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyères. At the
western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in
1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864,
and came from Spain. Napoleon I. lodged in the house No. 7 of the Place
des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyères are numerous
nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the
“Jardin d’Acclimatation,” where animals, birds, and plants are reared
for the Jardin d’Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These
gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered,
and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public.
[Headnote: COSTEBELLE.]
From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the
Costebelle, about 2½ m. from N.E. to S.W., on the wooded slopes of the
Montagnes des Oiseaux.
The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in
little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern
end of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the
chapel of Notre Dame d’Hyères, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are
lovely views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western
side are old olive trees.
[Headnote: CHÂTEAU.]
THE CHÂTEAU OF HYÈRES.
On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the +Château of
Hyères+, which should be visited as early as possible, for the sake of
acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the Hôtel
de Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the right, as
the entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S.E. end of the wall. The
castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been founded in the
7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it is called
_Castrum aræarum_ or _aræis_, “air-castle.” Considerable portions of the
walls, and some of the towers and dungeons, still remain, the most
perfect part being on the western side, above the Hôtel des Iles d’Or.
The view from the ramparts is beautiful. Immediately beneath are the
town and its dependencies, like a map in bold relief. Southwards,
towards the sea, is the great plain, studded with farmhouses, cypresses,
olive plantations, and vegetable gardens. Beyond is the roadstead, with
generally one or more vessels of war moored off the village of Les Vieux
Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are the islands of Levant, Port-Cros,
and Bagaud, the smallest of the three. Farther west, towards the
peninsula of Giens, is Porquerolles (p. 131), the largest of the
islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3 m. long.
On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the
little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. d’Hyères, and the
Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from
Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been
shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain,
are Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. (see p. 125), and the eastern extremity of Mt.
Faron, behind Toulon. Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure
mountains and the Pointe de la Galère, with Fort Brégançon. From this
fort, northwards by the beach, are the châteaux of Brégançon and
Léoubes. The highest peak of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea,
crowned by the chapel of Notre Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, pp. 123
and 129.)
[Headnote: MONT FENOUILLET.]
Behind Hyères Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette group,
the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft., at the western
extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge, commences at
the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence, 633 ft., on
which is a fragment of a tower. A gibbet for the execution of
malefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill above the east
end of Hyères, and standing between the old and new cemeteries, is a
favourite walk, and commands a good view. Before descending from the
castle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet.
+Excursion to Mont Fenouillet.+--Behind the castle ramify three paths.
The path to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of the
Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the left,
called the “Chemin St. Bernard,” leads down to the west end of Hyères,
near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads to Mt.
Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs, and some
fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the _Arbutus
unedo_, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road at Mt.
Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the valley of
the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small chapel visited
by pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross (3 Mai 1877),
there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths lead from it down
to the road between Hyères and Toulon.
[Headnote: THE TROU DES FÉES.]
+Excursion to the Montagnes des Oiseaux.+--The best way is to take the
path commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending
by the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places
it is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the _Quercus
coccifera_. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but on
the way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of Hyères
on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other.
+The Trou des Fées.+--On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E.
side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fées. The
entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior,
covered with stalactites, is about 96 ft. long by 40 wide. To explore it
lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path
leads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road down
by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle
road passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. The
other source is in the plain, on the road “du Père-Eternel,” nearly 2 m.
S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26 horse-power. This
water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1 m. E., through the
gravelly soil of the plain.
To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult and
confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble
in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the
lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound
heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the “chasseurs” at
such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the
swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure
mountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for the
walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian.
[Headnote: CORK-CUTTING.]
The principal agricultural products of Hyères, as indeed of all the
Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences
in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a
curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees
become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state,
and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12°
Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22°. The
cold of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyères, and nearly all the
trunks and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each
of which sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now
trees growing round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime
and umbrella pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork
oak, or _Quercus suber_, generally accompanied with the diminutive
member of the oak tribe, the _Quercus coccifera_. The bark forms an
important article of commerce. When the stem of the young cork oak has
become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is removed for the first time,
but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen years afterwards, when the
bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is stripped again, by making
two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart, and two vertical on opposite
sides. This operation is repeated every tenth year in the month of
June, when the sap is in full vigour. A cork tree does not produce
fine-grained cork till it is fifty years old. Cork-cutting, which
formed an important industry in the mountain villages, is gradually
leaving them and settling in the towns on the railways, on account of
the greater facility of transport. [Headnote: PROCESSIONAL
CATERPILLAR. PIPES.] The curious caterpillar of the Moth, _Bombyx
processionaria_, feeds on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine
trees. Their nests, made of a cobweb material, and shaped like a
soda-water bottle, are firmly attached to the branches. On cutting
them open the caterpillars are found coiled up in a ball, and do not
endeavour to escape. They feed during the night. When they leave the
nest they go in procession, following each other with great precision.
On the summits of the Maures, and on all the mountains bordering the
Riviera, grows the heath _Erica arborea_, from whose roots pipes are
made. The digging up and the preparing of these roots for the Paris
manufacturers form now an important industry in the mountain villages.
In England they are called briar-root pipes, briar being a corruption
of the French word _bruyère_, signifying heath.
The “specialité” of Hyères is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits,
and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries,
peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain
between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The
gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the
surface, there is always abundance of water.
[Headnote: BUTTERFLIES. CLIMATE OF HYÈRES.]
“About Hyères are many rare butterflies. Among the best is the
Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus
Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the
beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most
abundantly at Hyères. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and
September, many of the latter generation living through the winter.
Thais Medesicaste, T. Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de
Provence), Polyommatus Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in
April. A little later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce
Swallow Tail), the Machaon, the Thecla Betulæ, the Argynnis Pandora,
the A. Niobe, the A. Dia, the A. Aglaia, the A. Valenzina, the Arge
Psyche, the Satyrus Circe, the S. Briseis, the S. Hermione, the S.
Fidia, the S. Phædra, the S. Cordula, the S. Actoæ, the S. Semele, and
the S. Bathseba, all common more or less throughout the summer.”
--_W. A. Powell of the English Pharmacy of Hyères._
+Climate.+--Hyères is especially fitted for old people and young
children, and all those whose weakened constitutions require to be
strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all of limited means coming
to the Riviera should try this place first, as it is the nearest, the
cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require gaiety, Hyères is
not suited. “The chief attractions of Hyères are its climate and the
beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable place, of winter
abode, even for persons in health, who do not require the animated
movement and recreative resources presented by large towns, and who
are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on the
plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for the
most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the
more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed.” --_Dr.
Edwin Lee._ The mean winter temperature is 47°.4 F., and the average
annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in England, every
winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold; and therefore
the chances are that the traveller’s experience will not agree with
the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The climate
of Hyères is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and Nice;
and, “generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young
persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis,
either predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage
of that disease.”
[Headnote: GIENS. SALTWORKS. LE CHÂTEAU.]
THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYÈRES AND LES SALINS.
The railway from La Pauline and Hyères to Les Salins extends 11 m.
south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La
Pauline station is Mont Coudon (see p. 128, and map p. 129).
8¾ m. S. from La Pauline, and 2½ m. S. from Hyères, is the station for
La Plage, consisting of some pretty villas built between the beach and
a wood of umbrella pines. From the pier the _Zephyr_ sails every
afternoon (excepting Sunday) to Porquerolles (p. 131). The beach
adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254.
At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land
which connect the peninsula of Giens, 3¼ m. S., with the mainland. The
large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the
Tour Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite
(p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot and
sandy, skirts large square basin-like marshes, where salt is made by
the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the south
end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt
is heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles,
and on the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of
houses. Very fine views both of Giens and Hyères are obtained on the
way to the saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is
by the Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of +Le
Château+, with a neat church and the ruins of a castle. Many rare
plants and immense quantities of uni- and bivalve shells are found at
Giens, especially on the smaller of the two necks.
From Le Château a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of
La Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of
mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a
house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to
the semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus,
407 ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys
covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles
can be had on the isthmus.
After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing
station of Capé (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at
[Headnote: LES SALINS. POMPONIANA.]
+Les Salins+, 18 m. from Toulon and 5 from Hyères by rail. The omnibus
from Hyères to Salins stops at the small “Place” opposite the pier.
Fare, ½ fr. It traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between
vineyards and olive groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little
harbour frequented by feluccas and the boats of the training ships
anchored in the bay. Behind the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs
for the evaporation of sea-water principally in July and August. These
reservoirs or Salins occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually
20,000 tons of the value of £10,000. It is very coarse grained, but is
much esteemed by the fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently,
but during the hot or busy season 300 (see map, p. 129).
+Coach to Carqueyranne+, 6¼ m. W., by Costebelle and the coast. After
having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the
commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the
peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the
almost buried ruins of the Roman naval station of Pomponiana, some
fine olive trees, and several villas. A road from this leads to the
Hermitage, passing an olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high
road is Carqueyranne, a small straggling village, from which the
little port is about ½ m. distant by nearly a straight road
southwards. The Toulon omnibus from the Place d’Italie halts at the
port, but passes through the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to
the west of Carqueyranne is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are
the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft., and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be
conveniently ascended from Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley
between the two chains. In Carqueyranne are produced the earliest
strawberries, peas, potatoes, and artichokes for the Paris market. It
is 3½° warmer than Hyères.
[Headnote: BORMES.]
+Coach to Bormes+, 14½ m. E. from Hyères. The coach, after passing the
ramification southwards to Les Salins, halts a few minutes at La
Londe, 7¾ m. E., a little village with an inn, situated on both sides
of the St. Tropez road. Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou
road separates from the St. Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood
of fir and cork trees. Bormes is picturesquely situated among a group
of hills to the east of that long ridge which terminates with Cape
Benat and the Fort Brégançon. In the Place de la République or St.
François is the inn, commanding a good view from the back windows. At
the east end of the inn is the old churchyard, and a little beyond the
new cemetery on the road to Collobrières, 14 m. N. On the other side
of the “Place” is the parish church, from which a path leads up to the
ruins of the castle, 12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes.
Latterly it was occupied by monks. From the castle a path, passing six
small chapels, ascends to the church of Notre Dame, commanding,
especially from the portico, a pretty view of the plains, sea, and
mountains, as far as Toulon. Bormes suffers from want of water. Less
than an hour’s easy walking from Bormes is Lavandou, a prosperous
fishing village on the coast road from Brégançon to St. Tropez.
Savoury “langousts” or rock-lobsters are caught in the bay (see map,
p. 123).
{49}{106}
+LA PAULINE+, a few houses with a new church, near the foot of Mont
Coudon. Junction with line to Hyères, 6½ m. E. Passengers who have
missed the train for Hyères should await the omnibus at the little café
below. From La Pauline the train arrives at +Solliès-Pont+, pop. 3000;
_Inns:_ Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on
a steep hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Solliès-Ville,
almost of the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the
side of the hill. _Inn:_ Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for
+Collobrières+ (see p. 130).
[Headnote: CARNOULES.]
miles from MARSEILLES
miles to MENTON
{63½}{91½}
+CARNOULES.+ _Inn:_ H. de la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52 m.
N.W., on the line between Marseilles and Aix.
[Headnote: GARDANNE. BARJOLS.]
+Gardanne to Carnoules.+
Gardanne, pop. 3100. H. Truc, with large coalfields, 11 m. N. from
Marseilles and 7 m. S. from Aix (see p. 77). On this line, 16 m. N.W.
from Carnoules and 36 m. E. from Gardanne, is Brignoles, pop. 6000, on
the Carami. _Inns:_ Poste; Cloche d’Argent; Provence. This rather dirty
town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry trees,
has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are first
carefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently pressed.
They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church, 13th cent., is
in the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou, Bishop of Toulouse,
was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence, now the Sous
Préfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the church. In
the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal vestments.
Diligence daily to +Barjols+, 16½ m. N., pop. 3000; H. Pont d’Or;
situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses (p. 167).
Diligence also to Toulon by Meounes (see p. 129).
[Headnote: ST. MAXIMIN.]
On this branch line, 12 m. W. from Brignoles, is +St. Maximin+, 1043 ft.
above the sea, pop. 3400. _Inns:_ H. du Var; France. The church of this
ancient town was commenced by Charles II. of Sicily towards the end of
the 13th cent, over the underground chapel of St. Maximin, 1st cent. It
has no transept. The nave is 239½ ft. long and 91½ ft. high, and the
aisles on each side 211 ft. long and 58 ft. high. The width of the
church is 127½ feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished. The interior
of the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10 piers on each
side of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large and fine-toned
organ, which was saved from destruction by the organist Fourcade playing
upon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the lovely screen of
the sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of Ste. Baume. Few
parts of any church present such an admirable combination of beauty,
elegance, and symmetry as this sanctuary, by a Flemish monk, Frère
Louis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured panels, each bearing
within a wreath a representation in relief of one of the incidents in
the life of some celebrated member of the order of St. Dominic. Under
them are 92 stalls in 4 rows; at one end is the rood-loft, and at the
other the high altar against the apsidal wall. The entrance is by one
door on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and spiral colonnettes.
To the left, or N. of the altar, is a relief by Puget (?) in marble,
representing the Ascension of Mary Magdalene, and on the other side, in
terra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St. Maximin down in the
crypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at the east end of the N.
aisle consists of a painting on wood by an Italian artist in 1520. In
the centre is a large Crucifixion, and on each side 8 paintings on
panels representing the Passion. Below, on the table of the altar, is an
Entombment. In the second chapel from this is another reredos in the
same style, representing St. Laurent, St. Anthony, St. Sebastian, and
St. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like recess, is a very ancient
iron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the pulpit is the entrance into
the cloister and convent, 13th and 14th cents. The sculpture above the
sound-board of the pulpit is of one piece, and represents the Ascension
of Mary Magdalene. The undulating fluting on the panels and the
sculpture on the railing are very graceful. Behind is the stair down to
the crypt in which Mary Magdalene died after having swallowed a
consecrated wafer given her by St. Maximin. Her body was afterwards put
into the elaborately-carved alabaster sarcophagus on the left side of
the altar. The marble sarcophagus next it contained some bones of the
Innocents Mary is said to have brought with her from Palestine. Opposite
Mary’s is the marble sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent., and then
follow the sarcophagi, also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella
(Mary’s maid) and St. Sidonius, 2d cent. They are all empty, having been
rifled at the Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is the
skull of Mary Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of one
of her armbones. (See also under Six Fours, p. 123.) [Headnote: MONT
BRETAGNE. TRETS.] The cave of Ste. Baume, in which Mary Magdalene is
said to have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesque
mountains, partly in the Var, and partly in the Bouches du Rhône, of
which the culminating point is Mont Bretagne, 3498 ft. To go to it,
coach to La Poussiere, 5½ m. S.W., then ascend to the cave by Nans, 5
hrs. distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, 3285
ft. above the cave, glorious view. (See map, p. 123.) 12 m. W. from St.
Maximin and 12 E. from Gardanne is Trets, pop. 2200; _Inn:_ France;
a dirty town surrounded by its old walls garnished with square towers.
In the neighbourhood are coalpits, but they are small and unimportant.
{75¼}{79¾}
+LE LUC+ station, 1½ m. from the town, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Poste; Rousse.
Coach daily from the station by a beautiful road across the Maure
mountains to St. Tropez, 26 m. S.E., by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin.
Fare, 5 frs. Time, 4 to 5 hours. The coach, shortly after leaving the
station, begins the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives,
chestnuts, and firs. On the top of the pass, 1495 ft. above the sea and
12 m. from Luc, is the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, where
the horses are changed. This was the site of the Grand-Fraxinet, one of
the strongholds of the Saracens. 17 m. from Luc and 5 from La Garde is,
on an eminence, Grimaud, pop. 1400, an interesting village with arcaded
streets. In the principal square is a deep well hewn in the rock. The
massive walls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On the
top of the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent., and
occupied till the middle of the 18th. 19 m. from Luc, 7 from St. Tropez,
and 25½ E. from Hyères, is Cogolin, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Piffard; situated
on an eminence. On the top of the hill the Saracens had a castle, from
which they were driven (p. 187), and all the fortifications destroyed
excepting one tower, now the town clock tower. By the roadside, about
half-way between Cogolin and St. Tropez, is a very large fir tree. 32 m.
N.E. from Hyères and 26 m. S.E. from Luc station is
+St. Tropez+, pop. 3300, _Inn:_ Grand Hotel, a house with large rooms,
at the head of the port on the quay, commanding an excellent view of the
bay. The town, as usual, consists of dirty narrow streets. The church is
in the style found in the valley of the Rhône and along the east coast
of the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tall
slight columns, such as at Tournon and Hyères. Small chancel and no
apsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of the
high altar, one of the two usually being to “Maria sine labe concepta.”
Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel; and at the foot of the
hill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour,
opposite the Grand Hotel, is a statue of Pierre André de Suffren, one of
the greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, in
Provence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. The
promenade has seven rows of large Oriental plane trees. The sea-urchins
of St. Tropez are very good. The drive by diligence from Luc to St.
Tropez is more beautiful than from Hyères to St. Tropez. Coach daily to
Hyères, 32½ m. W.
[Headnote: DRAGUIGNAN. LORGUES.]
{84½}{70½}
+LES ARCS+, pop. 1200, H. de France. Branch line 8 m. N. to +Draguignan+
on the Nartubie, pop. 10,000. _Hotels:_ *Bertin; Poste; France; Var.
From the side of the H. Bertin diligences start for Salernes, pop. 2250,
on the Bresque. _Inn:_ H. Bernard; 13½ m N.W. from Draguignan (see map,
p. 123). From Salernes the coach proceeds to Aups, pop. 2350, on the
Grave, 1657 ft. above the sea, and 7½ m. N. from Salernes. _Inn:_
Gontard, with good beer. From Aups diligence to Manosque by Riez (see
p. 166). Also diligence to Brignoles by Barjols (see p. 143). From
Draguignan diligence 3 times in the week to Fayence, pop. 1000, situated
half-way to Grasse. Diligence also to Lorgues, pop. 3000; _Inn:_ Bonne
Foy; 6 m. W.
Draguignan is situated on the south side of the Malmont mountains, which
attain an elevation of 1995 ft. In the old town is the clock-tower, 58
ft. high, commanding an extensive view of the plain and of the
surrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad and
intersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing thirteen
rows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row. The Jardin
des Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the ancient
gateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the principal
products, ¾ m. from Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is a large dolmen
composed of one flat stone resting on four similar stones. The top slab
is 16 ft. long by 12½ wide and 1½ thick. The others are each 7 ft. high,
excepting one, which is broken. Indications of markings may be traced.
Growing around this interesting Celtic monument are an oak, a splendid
specimen of a “micocoulier” (_Celtis australis_), and a juniper, 20 ft.
high, of a very great age. The way to it is from the H. Bertin, ascend
the street, and take the first road left. When within a few yards of the
kilomètre stone, indicating 1 kil. from Draguignan and 30 from Comps,
take the private road to the left, leading into an olive tree plantation
(see map, p. 123).
[Headnote: FREJUS. COLOSSEUM.]
{98}{57}
+FREJUS+, pop. 3400, H. Midi close to station. Situated on the Reyran at
the S.W. extremity of the Estérel mountains, a picturesque group 13 m.
from N. to S. and 10 from E. to W., traversed by the “Route de Paris en
Italie,” which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22½ m. E., passes by their
highest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 2020 ft. above the sea. The peculiar charm
of the Estérels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms of
the bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombre
green pines which clothe these mountains.
To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the Porte
de Gaules, and the Colosseum, or Arènes, of which the greatest diameter
was 224 ft., with accommodation for upwards of 9000 spectators. On the
eastern side of the station are the Porte Dorée and the terrace called
the Butte St. Antoine. East of the Butte stood a Roman lighthouse. At
this part are remains of Roman towers and walls. The masonry throughout
is admirable, composed of stones of the size of large bricks. The Porte
Dorée has alternate layers of stone and brick. Having visited the ruins
by the side of the railway, pass up by the church, and leave the town by
a road having on the left hand a large building--the seminary. Having
walked a few paces, there will be seen to the left rather an ugly square
tower, which marks the site of the theatre. The lofty ruins of arches in
this neighbourhood are the remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought
water to Frejus from the Siagnole, near Mons, 24 m. N.E., and contained
87 arches. To the right of the road is a terrace supported by (once)
powerful masonry. Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher part
of the town is the parish church, which, with the adjoining “éveché,”
belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the baptistery. In
the Rue Éveché is a house with a sculptured doorway and well-executed
caryatides. From Frejus commence the pleasant views and glimpses of the
Mediterranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. The Phœnician
merchants of Massilia (Marseilles) founded the cities of Forum Julii or
Frejus, Antipolis or Antibes, Nicæa or Nice, and Agatha or Agde.
Agricola, the father-in-law of Tacitus, was born at Frejus.
[Map: The Estérel Mountains with Frejus and St. Raphaël to Cannes]
[Headnote: SAINT RAPHAEL.]
{100½}{54½}
+SAINT RAPHAEL+, a rapidly-increasing place of 3000 inhabitants. In
winter its guests come from the colder regions in quest of warmth, and
in summer from the hot interior in quest of the cooling breezes and the
still more refreshing sea-bathing. _Hotels:_ close to the station, the
France, 8 to 9 frs. More expensive houses: G. H. de St. Raphael, on an
eminence, with garden; near the beach, the *G. H. des Bains, 9 to 13
frs.; and Beau Rivage. Among the numerous handsome villas is the cottage
built by Alphonse Karr. Temple Protestant, Anglican Chapel. Little
steamer daily to St. Tropez; whence diligence to Hyères (p. 134).
Omnibus runs between St. Raphael and Valescure, 2 m. inland, with G. H.
de Valescure. St. Raphael, only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes a
salubrious and agreeable residence, with pleasant walks, either by the
beach or up the valley of the Garonne into the Estérel mountains, where
the rambles are endless. At the E. end of St. Raphael is a very pleasant
park, rising from the rocks on the coast. A little farther towards
Cannes is the Boulerie, with a large hotel.
Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, and
here he embarked when he sailed for Elba. Along this part of the coast
are fine specimens of the _Pinus pinea_.
[Headnote: AGAY. SAINTE BAUME.]
{105}{50}
+AGAY+, a small custom-house station, with a few houses at the head of a
small but deep bay, into which flows the stream Grenouiller. On the top
of the conical hill, on the S.W. side of the station, is the +Tour de
Darmont+, a signal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La Sainte
Baume, 4½ m. distant, and a little to the N. of the peak of Cape Roux,
1444 ft. above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to the
old château, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the railway
to an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds upwards to
the summit of a small hill. From there descend boldly into the valley in
an eastwardly direction towards the rugged red summit of Cape Roux till
a stream is reached. Leaving the stream, a pathway will be seen going
upwards to Cape Roux. Follow that till a high ridge is reached, close to
the summit, where is a splendid view to the east and west and
north-west; then take to the left, and in a few hundred yards a
platform, with a spout of running water and a couple of abandoned
buildings, is reached. Distance about 3½ miles. About 260 ft. above
this, in the face of the rock, is La Sainte Baume, the holy cave of St.
Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a hermit’s life for
some years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide path seen from the
hermitage leading westward to the river in the valley. On the way
remark, on the left hand, a truncated stone pillar, a Roman milestone,
with an inscription. Some archæologists base upon the existence of this
stone their assertion that the Via Aurelia passed this way. At the
bottom of the valley cross the Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay.
[Headnote: LE TRAYAS.]
After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where a
magnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at +Le
Trayas+, the next and last station before reaching Cannes, 11 m. E. from
St. Raphael, 6¼ m. E. from Agay, and 8¾ m. W. from Cannes. From Trayas
also a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considered
nearer though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the train
passes from the department of Le Var to the department of the Alpes
Maritimes, then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and having
passed the pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, enters the
beautifully-situated town of Cannes.
[Map: Cannes]
[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]
CANNES,
on the Gulf of Napoule, 120½ m. E. from Marseilles, 79 m. N.E. from
Toulon, 78¼ m. N.E. from Hyères, and 19¼ m. S.W. from Nice. Fixed
population, 19,400. +Hotels and Pensions.+--Although there are already
very many hotels, their number continues to increase. Of villas there
are about 450, which, with the exception of some 110 belonging to
resident French and English proprietors, are let by the season, from the
1st of October to the last of May, at rents varying from £80 to £1200,
including plate and linen. Many have coachhouse, stables, and gardens
attached. For information regarding them apply to Taylor and Riddett,
agents, bankers, and moneychangers, 43 Rue de Frejus. They have also a
well-supplied readingroom, which they place at the disposal of the
public without any charge. The first-class hotels charge from 10 to 25
frs. per day; the second from 8 to 12, including everything. A fair
gratuity for service during a prolonged stay is from 50 c. to 75 c. per
day.
Those requiring to study economy will find the most reasonable hotels
and pensions at the east end of the town. The Pension Mon Plaisir,
8 frs., in garden, Boulevard d’Alsace, near railway station. In the
Boulevard Cannet, Pension d’Angleterre, 9 to 10 frs., in garden. Farther
up the same Boulevard the Pension St. Nicolas, 8 frs. Near Trinity
Church, the *Pension Victoria, 8 to 11 frs., with very large garden
fronting the promenade.
Cab, with one horse and seated for two, from the station to the hotels,
1½ fr.; each portmanteau, ½ fr.
The atmosphere on the hills, and at some little distance from the sea,
is supposed to be in a less electrical condition, and not so liable to
produce wakefulness, as in those places near the beach, and therefore
many prefer the hotels and pensions situated inland. _Hotels:_ fronting
station, the Négociants; the [1]*Univers, 7½ to 9 frs. In the Allées, on
the beach, the Hôtel Splendide, 12 to 20 frs. At E. end of R. d’Antibes,
the Pensions Luxembourg; Wagram, 8 to 11 frs.; and the H. Russie, 9 to
12 frs.
[Footnote 1: The asterisk, here as elsewhere, prefixed to the name
of hotel indicates that it is one of the best of its class.]
_Hotels to the east of the Allées_, fronting the beach, taking them in
the order from west to east:--The National, 9 to 15 frs.; Midi, 8 to 12
frs.; *Beau-Rivage; *Gray and Albion; *Grand Hotel; Plage; the last four
are first-class houses, charging from 10 to 20 frs. The H. Suisse;
Augusta; Anne Therese; *Victoria, in large garden, 8 to 12 frs. Behind
the Grand Hotel is the Theatre. Behind the H. Midi, in the R. Bossu, No.
8, the Post and Telegraph Offices.
On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the Louvre;
H. Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor; La Paix.
A little way hack are the Pension d’Angleterre; H. de France; H.
Méditerranée, 9 to 13 frs.
Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are Hotels
Windsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Séjour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie;
Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H. de Californie is
the Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday morning, 28th
March 1884.
In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard Cannet,
are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont; all with
gardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. per day.
At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the Pension
Lerins, a plain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8 frs. A little
higher up this Boulevard is the English church of St. Paul; whence a
road ascends to the Hôtel *Paradis, which, although a first-class house,
on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to 15 frs. Next it is
the Hôtel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well inland, on the
Nouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to 20 frs.
On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, is
the *Hôtel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is the
H. Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the beach,
and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to 10
frs., well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is the
H. Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. A little beyond is Christ Church, and on an
eminence opposite the H. *Terrasse, 12 to 16 frs., a large house with
garden. Farther west, and considerably inland, upon separate eminences,
are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind the Rothschild villa;
and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs., behind Lord Brougham’s villa. Farther
west, and on the same level, is the H. Estérel, same price. On a hill,
a little beyond the perfume distillery of M. Lubin, is the Pension de la
Tour, well situated, and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes is
called La Bocca, and sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there.
From this a road runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there are
fields of the fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for the
perfumeries (see page 161).
[Headnote: CHURCHES. CAB FARES. STEAMERS.]
_Churches._--Christ Church, Rue de Frejus; St. Paul’s, Boulevard du
Cannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique.
Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the Invalid
Ladies’ Home. French Churches, on the Route de Grasse, and in the Rue
Notre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet.
Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood the
office of Cook & Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are sold.
_Cab Fares._--One horse with 2 seats, the course 1½ fr.; the hour, 2½
frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2 frs.; the hour, 3½ frs.
Portmanteaus, ½ fr. each. _Steamers_ from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for
Marseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and
St. Honorat, 1 and 2 frs. there and back. On Thursdays and Saturdays
trips to Theoule, 2 frs.
[Headnote: LORD BROUGHAM.]
Cannes extends 4½ m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan, and
partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and
gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it
extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills,
and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square,
called the Allés de la Liberté, is nearly in the centre of the town, at
the head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110
wide. It contains the Hôtel de Ville and the H. Splendide. Between them
is a marble statue, life-size, “A Lord Brougham, né à Edinburgh, le 19
Septembre 1778. Décédé à Cannes le 7 Mai 1868.” He is in his official
robes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm, he holds a rose.
The Hôtel de Ville contains the Public Library and interesting
collections illustrating the natural history of the neighbourhood. The
obliging director gives every assistance in naming the plants, insects,
and minerals. At the head of the Allées, and on the adjoining eminence,
is the old or original town. On this hill is the Church of
Notre-Dame-d’Espérance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the 15th. In
front is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it are St.
Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square tower
commenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert II., of the monastery of St.
Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the tower
is a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the new
cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The
monument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearing
the following inscription:-- “HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII.
Decessit MDCCCLXVIII.” Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose,
K.T., died December 1874.
_The climate_, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In nooks
sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but on
leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced. The
mean winter temperature is 47° Fahr. The average number of rainy days in
the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as at Nice.
“The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as its
equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties of
the atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic
temperaments.” --Madden’s _Resorts_. “While Cannes, therefore, possesses
a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and many
classes of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating
atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those
suffering from affections of the respiratory organs.” --_Dr. Hassall._
[Headnote: DRIVES.]
_Drives._--In Cannes there are great facilities for driving in
carriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The omnibuses start for their
destinations either from the east corner of the Cours (Allées de la
Liberté), or from the Rue d’Antibes, near the Cours. The largest livery
stables are in the Rue d’Antibes. They charge for a carriage, with
coachman and two horses, per month £30. The cabmen carry their tariffs
with them, and are bound to show them when required. Copies of the
“Tarif des Voitures” are kept for distribution in the Kiosque on the
Cours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at the rate of
3 frs. for a 25 frs. fare.
[Headnote: ROAD TO VALLAURIS.]
THE CORNICHE OF CANNES.
The best of the drives is to +Vallauris+ by the low road to the Golfe de
Jouan, 4 m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2 m. N., and 250 ft.
above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5½ m. S.W. by the
Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs. Cab with one
horse, 14 frs.; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris, 1 fr. By taking
the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a delightful and easy walk
along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris bridge a little below
Massier’s pottery, and ascend the broad road. About ½ m. from the bridge
is the “Observatoire de la Corniche,” where tea and coffee can be had,
and whence there is a charming view east from Cannes to Bordighera.
About half-way between this and the observatory at the Cannes or S.W.
end of the road is the large hotel Cannes-Eden.
The Belvédère, at the Cannes end of the road, in La Californie, is 545
ft. above the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours,
1 fr. each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the canal which
supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the other branch, by
which the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the Belle-Vue hotel
on the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The canal commences near the
source of the Siagne, a few miles from St. Cesaire.
From the Belvédère an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still higher
summit, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvédère. The view
is similar, including more of the interior. A short distance N.E. from
this is another summit, 804 ft. above the sea, which from the top looks
as if it were nearly over Antibes.
Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return from
Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de
Jouan station is C. Massier’s pottery, and a few yards along the road
towards Antibes is Napoleon’s column (p. 169).
[Headnote: VALLAURIS. POTTERY. MINES.]
+Vallauris+, pop. 4000, is a poor village, with small cafés and
restaurants. The omnibus stops in the “Place” opposite the church and
the Hôtel de Ville, containing a large flat stone bearing an
inscription, stating that “the Emperor Tiberius remade the road it
refers to in the 32d year of his tribunician authority.” Also a column,
4 ft. high and 14 inches in diameter, bearing an inscription to
Constantine.
Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of kitchen pottery,
“Potteries Réfractaires,” earthenware utensils, principally of the
“marmite” or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without
cracking. A dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for 2 frs. To
this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture of artistic
pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the showrooms in
the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan. Several of the
clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up northwards
from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the Pleiocene
period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets the
road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up
road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the clay-mines. The
entrances into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into
them. The colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in
various shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common
articles are made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from
Estaque, near Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic
pottery.
+Vallauris to Antibes.+
The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to
Antibes traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo
pines. Having passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come
to a firebrick and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The
road behind, extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a
bridge is passed, and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans
to convey water to Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp. 154 and 169.)
CANNET.
Two miles N. from Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Foncière, is
+Cannet+, 265 ft., pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the H.
*Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. A little to the east of the church Ste.
Philomène is a smaller house, the H. and Pension Cannet, 8 to 10 frs.
Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858 the
accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none of
those broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the church
is the “Place,” commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous. Cab to
Cannet, and return by the Grasse road, 7 or 9 frs.
[Headnote: LA CROISETTE.]
Drive to +La Croisette+, the first cape east from Cannes, by the
beautiful road 2 m. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1½
fr., or 2½ frs. the hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2 frs. Tram, 6 sous.
Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive
by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is the
entrance to the orange orchard “Des Hesperides,” occupying 4 acres. The
trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they
were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost
about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are
those the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process,
and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there
is a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortifications
begun by Richelieu, but never completed.
_Cannes to the Cap d’Antibes_, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats,
18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30 frs.
Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it starts
from the Allées de la Liberté, and in Antibes from the “Place,” fare
1 fr. Very near this “Place” are two comfortable inns, the H.
Escouffier and the H. des Aigles d’Or; pension 7 to 8 frs. Their
omnibuses await passengers at the railway station. Antibes has a
little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by Vauban, who also
built the fortress Fort Carré, near the northern side of the entrance.
From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high walk above the
pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen distinctly Nice, the
fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland from Cagne are St.
Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther west, Le Bar. In
the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped with snow in
winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers. One of them
stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry; the other
forms part of an adjoining building, the “Bureau du Recrutement.”
[Map: Cannes & Environs]
[Headnote: CAP D’ANTIBES. LIGHTHOUSE.]
The +Cap d’Antibes+ affords a delightful little walking excursion. To
visit the “Cap” from Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the
Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take
the first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts.
Ascend the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a “Via
Crucis,” bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group
representing some part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N. D.
d’Antibes, frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the
oldest part of the building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the
lighthouse built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. above the sea. The
building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the top is a
fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for one
person, ½ fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the
road to the Villa Thuret and to the Hôtel du Cap, a first-class house,
10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret are
now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical
trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into
France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For
Antibes, see also p. 169.) The great tower on a rock to the W.,
overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine.
[Headnote: CROIX DES GARDES. THEOULE.]
+Drives to the west of the Hôtel de Ville.+--_La Croix des Gardes_,
2½ m. N.W., and 498 ft. above the sea. The nearest way ramifies from
the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Vue hotel. The cross rises
from a column on a block of granite. The view is extensive. By the
side of the road will be observed considerable plantations of the
_Acacia farnesiana_, from whose flowers a pleasant perfume is
distilled.
_Cannes to Napoule_, 6 m. W, Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs.;
with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16 frs. 1 hour’s rest allowed. By omnibus,
30 c., leaving Cannes at 1 for the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds
with the omnibus to Napoule, 50 c.; which, as it does not return till
4.30, affords ample time to walk on to +Theoule+ and back, 2 m. W. The
Napoule road commences from the western, or what is also called the
English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little Scotch church, behind
which are the Square Brougham and the public gardens. Farther W. is
Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal Chapels. A short distance
beyond, on the right side of the road, is the villa Eléonore-Louise,
where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden among the trees, but the
garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress trees growing by the
side of the rail. Three m. from Cannes, on an eminence covered with
pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the road, is the poor
little chapel of St. Cassien, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is
held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in
Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the
side of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From
it a very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs,
leads to the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at
the foot of the Estérel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better
than that at Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the
railway viaduct, a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the
mountains. From Theoule a road extends to Trayas.
[Headnote: ESTÉREL. PÉGOMAS.]
_Cannes to the Inn of Estérel_, 12 m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea.
Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with one horse and two seats, 18
frs.; with two horses and four seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca
and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right
or north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. le Duc, 1265
ft., a little to the east of the flat peak La Gaëte, 1663 ft.
Afterwards the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft.
above the sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road
amidst picturesque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Estérel. The
inn is situated to the N. of Mt. Vinaigre, having to the east the Plan
Pinet, 876 ft. above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigre, 1193 ft.
above the inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre commences near
the inn. The culminating part, 1030 ft., of the carriage-road is about
1¼ m. west from the inn at a place where four roads meet, almost
immediately below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point
also.
7 m. N. from Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the
Siagne, passing the Hôtel Garibondy, is the village of +Pégomas+, pop.
1350, on the Mourachone, a slow-running stream, in some parts hidden
among bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but
difficult walk up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab, 12 or
16 frs.; 1 hour’s rest.
About 3 m. N.W. is +Auribeau+, pop. 480, prettily situated on the
Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs., with 2 hours’ rest.
[Headnote: MOUGINS. CASTELARAS.]
4¾ m. N. from Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. above the sea, is +Mougins+,
pop. 1680. The road ascends all the way, passing by the cemetery and
traversing vineyards and large olive groves. The omnibus goes no
farther than Les Baraques, about ¼ m. below the town. Fare, 75 c. Cab
there and back, one horse, 12 frs.; two horses, 16 frs.; 1 hour’s
rest. Mougins still retains a few low portions of its walls and one
gate, just behind the church. In the shop near the gate is the key of
the church tower. The church dates from the 12th cent. From the tower,
ascended by 75 steps, is a beautiful view. To the west is La Roquette,
N.W. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond Grasse. To the S.W. near the sea, and
on the border of the Estérels, is the village of Mandelieu.
4 m. N. from Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by
the new road, is +Castelaras+, 1050 ft. above the sea. It is half a
villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view
of Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, Vence, etc., to
the north; Biot, Antibes, Nice, etc., to the east; Mouans, Auribeau,
and the Estérel mountains to the west; and Cannes with its islands to
the south. The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take
the train to Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the
steep road to the east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse
and tower are distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The
column farther north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse
in 1883.
_Sail by steamboat_ to the Iles de Lerins. Time, 1 hr. The steamer
makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste.
Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat, where the
steamer remains sufficient time to visit the castle.
ILES DE LERINS.
The Island of Ste. Marguerite, 4½ m. in circumference and 1½ m. from the
mainland, is covered entirely with a pine forest, except at Point
Croisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu, containing the
apartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined and the far more
interesting vaulted cell in which the Man of the Iron Mask was closely
guarded. The present entrance did not exist at that time, the only
communication then being by the now walled-up door which led into the
house of the governor, M. de St. Mars. From behind the prison a road,
bordered by the _Eucalyptus globulus_, goes right through the pine
plantation to the other side of the island.
[Headnote: THE MAN OF THE IRON MASK.]
The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli,
a Bolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On the
13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard Paleotti,
by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which has long
since been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader in the
University of Bologna, which he soon quitted to enter the service of
Charles III., Duke of Mantua, by whom he was finally made Secretary of
State. The successor of Charles III., Ferdinand Charles IV., the last
sovereign of Mantua, of the house of Gonzaga, created Matthioli
supernumerary senator of Mantua, and gave him the title of Count.
Towards the end of 1677 the Abbé d’Estrades, ambassador from France to
the Republic of Venice, conceived the idea, which he was well aware
would be highly acceptable to the insatiable ambition of his master,
Louis XIV., of inducing the weak and unfortunate Duke Ferdinand Charles
to allow of the introduction of a French garrison into Casale,
a strongly-fortified town, in a great measure the key of Italy. The
cession of the fortress of Pinerolo to the French by Victor Amadeus,
Duke of Savoy, in 1632, had opened to them the entrance into Piedmont,
while the possession of Casale would have opened to them the broad and
fertile plains of Milan.
The great difficulty Estrades had to encounter at first in the
prosecution of this intrigue was to find a medium of communication
between himself and the Duke. This channel was at last found in the
person of Matthioli, who enjoyed the Duke’s confidence and favour, and
was besides a complete master of Italian politics. Through him the
schemes of Estrades progressed so well that he was invited to the French
court, where he was received and rewarded by Louis XIV., who at the same
time presented him with a valuable diamond ring. Shortly after
Matthioli’s return to Italy he allowed himself to be bought over by the
Austrian party, which frustrated the French negotiations and so
exasperated the vindictive Louis that he sent orders to the Abbé
Estrades to have him kidnapped at all hazards.
For this purpose Matthioli was induced to go to the frontier beyond
Turin, where he was arrested as a traitor to France by the Abbé,
accompanied by four soldiers, on 2d May 1679. Such a scandalous breach
of international law required the adoption of extraordinary
precautionary means of concealment. His name was changed to Lestang,
he was compelled to wear a black velvet mask, and when he travelled
armed attendants on horseback were ready to despatch him if he made
any attempt to escape, or even to reveal himself.
By the direction of Estrades he was comfortably lodged and fed in
prison, till orders came from Paris, stating-- “It is not the
intention of the king that the Sieur de Lestang should be well
treated, nor receive anything beyond the absolute necessaries of life,
nor anything to make his time pass agreeably.” He was handed over to
the charge of St. Mars, who took him to the castle of Pinerolo, whence
in 1681 they removed to the castle of Exiles. From Exiles St. Mars
removed his unfortunate and now crazy prisoner to the Island of Ste.
Marguerite, where they arrived 30th April 1687, after a journey of
twelve days.
Among the erroneous anecdotes told of Matthioli during his ten years’
sojourn on the island are:--On one occasion he is alleged to have
written his name and rank on a silver plate, which he threw out of the
window. A fisherman picked it up and brought it to St. Mars, who, on
finding the man could not read, let him go. On another occasion
Matthioli is said to have covered one of his shirts with writing,
which he likewise threw out of the window. It was found by a monk,
who, when he delivered it to St. Mars, assured him that he had not
read it. Two days afterwards the monk was found dead. The origin of
these stories is to be found in a letter from St. Mars to the
Minister, dated 4th June 1692, in which he informs him that he has
been obliged to inflict corporeal punishment upon a Protestant
clergyman named Salves, also in his keeping, because he would write
things on his pewter vessels and linen, to make known that he was
imprisoned unjustly on account of the purity of his faith.
In 1697 Matthioli with his keeper left for the Bastile, of which place
St. Mars had been appointed governor. They arrived on 18th September
1698.
On the 19th November 1703, about 10 P.M., Matthioli died in the
Bastile, after a few hours’ illness, and was buried next day at 4 P.M.
in the cemetery of St. Paul.--Extracted from the _History of the
Bastile_, by R. A. Davenport.
[Headnote: THE ISLAND OF ST. HONORAT. ABBEY. MASSACRE.]
The Island of St. Honorat contains 97 acres, or is ¼ the size of Ste.
Marguerite, from which it is 750 yards distant. A pleasant road of
2½ m., shaded by umbrella pines, leads round the island. Straight from
the landing-place is a convent of Cistercian monks, settled here only
since 1859. The original monastery was founded by St. Honorat in 410.
In 730 and 891 the Saracens invaded the island, pillaged the
establishment, and massacred the monks. In the 10th century the again
flourishing brotherhood received Cannes as a gift from Guillaume
Gruetta, son of Redouard, Count of Antibes. In 1073 they built the
tower on the island, and in 1080 the Abbé Adalbert II. commenced the
castle of Cannes. In 1148 the monks strengthened and enlarged the
fortifications of their tower. In 1788 the monastery was suppressed on
account of the irregularities of the inmates. In 1791 the island and
buildings were sold. In 1859 they were finally bought by the Bishop of
Frejus, who handed them over to the present occupiers, a colony of
Cistercian monks, 50 in number, of whom about two-thirds are lay
brethren.
“What Iona was to the ecclesiastical history of northern England, what
Fulda and Monte Cassino were to the ecclesiastical history of Germany
and southern Italy, +St. Honorat+ was to the church of southern Gaul.
For nearly two centuries the civilisation of the great district
between the Loire and the Mediterranean rested mainly on the Abbey of
Lerins. Sheltered by its insular position from the ravages of the
barbaric hordes who poured down the valleys of the Rhône and of the
Garonne, it exercised over Provence and Aquitaine a supremacy such as
Iona, till the Synod of Whitby, exercised over Northumbria. All the
more illustrious sees of southern Gaul were filled by prelates who had
been reared at Lerins. To Arles (p. 70) it gave in succession Hilary,
Cæsarius, and Virgilius.
“The present cloister of the abbey is much later than the date of the
massacre of the monks, which took place, according to tradition, on
the little piece of green sward in the centre of the cloister.
“With the exception of the masonry of the side walls, there is nothing
in the abbey church earlier than the close of the 11th cent.” --J. R.
Green’s _Stray Studies_.
[Headnote: CASTLE.]
The tower or rather castle, as it now stands, represents two tall
rectangular elevations of unequal magnitude, crowned by projecting
cornices. On the ground-floor, with entrance from the beach, is a
large hall with groined roof, said by some to have been a chapel, and
by others a bakery, but most likely a “parloir” or reception-room. In
the wall, a little to the left or west, and about 30 ft. from the
ground, is a cannon-ball fired by the English when they took
possession of the islands in 1746. The interior of the castle is shown
by the concierge of the convent. The first part entered is the oblong
cloister, in three stories, of which two remain entire. The corridor
of the first is supported on short columns standing round the edge of
a cistern. From this corridor open the doors into the bedrooms and
refectory. From the upper corridor is the entrance to the chapel,
which opened into the library. Above the library was the infirmary, of
which not a vestige remains. A good view is had from the top. Visitors
are next taken to the convent. The church and buildings are modern,
excepting one of the cloisters. It is therefore a pity to spend much
time there, especially for those who have arrived by the last steamer,
and have consequently little time to spare.
[Headnote: CHAPEL OF THE TRINITY.]
By the road round the island are the remains of chapels of the 7th
cent., or even earlier. Going from west to east there is, against the
wall of the convent, a little to the west of the castle, the Chapel of
St. Porcaire (restored), where, it is said, the saint was buried. At
the western extremity of the island, within an old fort, is the Chapel
of St. Sauveur. To the west of the landing-place, near the large
gateway, are little better than the foundations of the Chapel of St.
Pierre. Farther east, beside the Orphanage, is St. Justine, now a
stable. The Orphanage contains about 25 boys. They are taught
different trades. The franc charged for showing the castle goes to
their support. On the eastern point of the island, beside a fort, is
the most interesting chapel of all, the Chapel of the *+Trinity+, 35
ft. long by about 25 wide, placed from east to west. The great
corner-stones of this small temple, by their size and solidity, are
the main supports of the building, illustrating thereby the reason why
in Scripture so much importance and honour are attached to them in
edifices. The roof of the nave is semicircular, strengthened by three
arches, the centre one springing from two round columns. The roofs of
the three apsidal chapels are semispherical.
[Headnote: PLAIN OF NAPOLEON.]
+Cannes to Grasse+, 12½ m. N. by rail, pop. 12,100. _Hotels:_ the G.
H. International, 9 to 12 frs., a first-class house on the road to Le
Bar. In the town, H. Muraour and the Poste, 8 to 10 frs. Their
omnibuses await passengers. Those who wish to walk commence by the
stair to the right of the station, and then the steep road on the
other side of the highway. Grasse, a town of charming views, delicious
water, and the best of air, makes an excellent and beneficial change
from Cannes. The town, with its terraces and labyrinth of narrow,
crooked, steep streets, is situated 1090 ft. above the sea, on the
southern slope of Mt. Rocavignon, which rises almost perpendicularly
695 ft. above the town. To the N.E. of Rocavignon is the Marbrière,
2920 ft. above the sea. The short but stony road to the top of
Rocavignon commences opposite the fountain used by the washerwomen. On
the summit is a stony plateau, commanding extensive and exquisite
views. A little way inland is a grassy plot, called the Plain of
Napoleon, because here, on 2d March 1815, he breakfasted at the foot
of the three tall cypresses, and then went on to St. Vallier. In the
face of the large calcareous cliff a few yards beyond the trees is a
cavern or “foux,” whence, after heavy rains, a large body of water
issues in the form of a roaring cascade. The path which leads down
into the beautiful valley below commences about 500 yards farther
inland. It joins that very pretty road among olive trees, seen from
the plateau, which, after passing the large white house, a hospice for
the aged, enters Grasse by the powder-house, formerly the chapel of
St. Sauveur, a little circular building with flat shallow buttresses,
built in the early part of the 10th cent. On entering Grasse by this
way, and just at the commencement of the promenade called the Cours,
is the hospital. The large door gives access to the chapel, in which
are hung, at the west end, three pictures attributed to Rubens--the
Crown of Thorns, the Elevation of the Cross, and the Crucifixion. The
concierge uncovers them. [Headnote: JEAN FRAGONARD.] Immediately
below, and opposite the entrance into the public gardens, is the house
of M. Malvillan, containing paintings by a native of Grasse, Jean
Horace Fragonard, who died at Paris in 1806. The best of them are
five pictures, which were painted for Madame Dubarry, representing
frolicsome scenes, young people playing games. At the foot of the Rue
des Dominicains, in a large house with bulging iron grating, are some
decorative paintings attributed to Flemish artists. These pictures are
shown by courtesy. In the centre of the old town is the parish church,
built in the 11th cent., but altered and repaired in the 17th. It
contains several pictures, but the only good one is an Ascension of
Mary, by Subleyras, behind the high altar. From the terrace at the
east end of the church is one of the many beautiful views. Adjoining
is the Hôtel de Ville, and attached to it is a great square tower of
the 11th cent.
A stair at the head of the main street leads down to the principal
square and market-place, with a fountain at one end and one of the
sides arcaded. The best promenades are the Cours, the terrace of the
Palais de Justice above it, and the Jardin des Plantes below it.
PERFUMERY.
The standard industries of Grasse are the distilling of perfumes and
the preserving of fruits. The flowers are cultivated on terraces
resembling great nursery-beds. Of the perfumes, the most precious are
the Otto of Roses and the Néroly. It requires 45 lbs. avoirdupois of
rose leaves (petals) to make 1 gramme, or 15½ grains troy of the Otto
of Roses, which costs from 2½ to 3 frs. the gramme; and 2¾ lbs. troy
of the petals of orange flowers to make 1 gramme of Néroly, which
costs 8 to 10 sous the gramme. The best Néroly, the Néroly Bigarrade,
is made from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It is used
principally in the manufacture of Eau de Cologne, of which it
constitutes the base. In colour it resembles sherry, and the odour is
that of Eau de Cologne. The water that comes off in distilling Néroly
forms the orange-water of the cafés. The Otto of Roses of Grasse is
superior to that of Turkey. Extracts for scenting pocket-handkerchiefs
are made from freshly-gathered flowers laid between two sheets of
glass, held by their frames 4 inches apart, and piled one above the
other, without pressing the flowers. On each side of the glass is a
layer of lard ⅓ of an inch thick, which, in 12 to 24 hours, absorbs
completely the odoriferous oil. When the flowers are abundant they are
renewed every 12 hours, sometimes even every 6. The operation is
repeated several times on the same lard with fresh flowers. Jonquilles
are changed 30 times, the cassia and violet 60, the tuberose (a kind
of hyacinth) and the jasmine, both 80 times. The lard is then melted
in a large iron vessel, and mixed with spirits made from grain, which,
combining with the volatile oil, rises to the top. The fluid is then
filtered. This is called the cold method. Orange and rose petals
require the hot methods, either by the still or by the “bain-marie.”
The distilling of the fragrant oil from the petals requires the most
vigilant attention, and the maintenance of the same degree of heat.
Rose and orange pomade are made by the bain-marie method by submerging
a large iron pot full of lard in boiling water. When the lard is
melted the petals are added, and after having remained there for 12 or
24 hours the mass is filtered to remove the now inodorous petals. The
operation is repeated from 30 to 60 times, according to the required
strength of the perfume. The red Turkey rose is the only rose
used.
At the very foot of the Rue des Cordeliers is the confectionery of
*Negre. He has showrooms and priced catalogues of his preserved
fruits, which are made up in the candied (cristallisé) state, in the
glazed-sugar (glacé) state, whole and in syrup (compotes), or as jams
and jellies (confitures). At No. 22 Rue des Cordeliers is the
perfumery of Bruno-Court, where purchases of the best material may be
made from a franc upwards. Below the church is the perfumery of
Warwick and Co., and in the B. Fragonard that of Pilar Frères, both of
whom supply Atkinson of London with the raw material.
[Headnote: ST. CESAIRE. CANNES CANAL. CALLIAN.]
_Grasse to St. Cesaire._--9 m. W. by a beautiful road. Carriage there
and back, 20 frs. Diligence, 1½ fr. Time, 2 hours. This little
village, pop. 350, is situated on an eminence above the Siagne, 1560
feet above the sea, or 470 feet higher than Grasse. In front of a
large elm in the “Place” is a plain but clean inn, the Hôtel de la
Siagne (pension from 6 to 8 frs.), where those who desire to fish in
the river or ramble in the environs can live comfortably. From the end
of the street, right from the inn, is a terrace, left hand, whence
there is a view of the valley of the Siagne, with the Cannes canal on
its eastern side. The path to the cave “Grotto de la Foux” goes by the
upper side of this canal, and requires 1½ hour’s easy walking. The
commencement of the Cannes Canal is about a half-hour’s walk farther
up. No guide is necessary, unless it be desired to inspect the cave
with lights. Guide, 5 frs. Like the more famous caves of Cahors and of
Vaucluse (p. 64), this cavern or “foux,” at the base of a calcareous
cliff, contains a great basin of limpid water, but no stalactites. The
Cannes Canal is a narrow uncovered conduit 31 m. long, exposed to
animal and vegetable impurities throughout nearly its entire course.
Of greater interest is the commencement of the Roman aqueduct, which
conveyed water from the Siagnole to Frejus (p. 146, and map, p. 117)
by a channel covered with bricks, and stones of the size of bricks,
through the Roquotaillado tunnel, 164 ft. long, 27 wide, and 82 high,
in all probability originally a cave, but adapted by the Roman
engineers to their requirements. It is most easily visited from
Montauroux, on the hill opposite, 3 m. distant by a bridle-path,
_Inn:_ Bourgarenne, where pass the night. From this village the tunnel
is about 9 m. distant by an excellent carriage-road. 1½ m. from
Montauroux is the village Callian, _Inn:_ Castel, 1200 ft., supplied
with water by the Roman aqueduct.
[Map: The Durance, the Var, the Col di Tenda, San Remo]
Nearly 2 hours’ walk from the Cannes Canal up the Siagne, and situated
at a considerable elevation, is the stalactite cave of +Mons+. Those
who have already seen such caves will find in this one nothing new nor
striking. To visit it not only is a guide necessary, but the keeper of
the cave at Mons must be advised beforehand, that he may be at the
mouth of the cave with the key. It is much the better plan to return
from the commencement of the Cannes Canal to St. Cesaire, and drive
back to Grasse. The olives of St. Cesaire are considered among the
best flavoured of the Riviera.
+Grasse by Coach to Cagnes Station.+
+Grasse+ to the railway station of +Cagnes+ by the +Pont du Loup+ and
+Vence+, 21 m. By omnibus, 3 frs. By private carriage, 30 frs. This
drive is generally taken in two parts--Grasse to the Pont du Loup;
then from the Pont du Loup to Vence or Cagnes.
[Headnote: PONT DU LOUP. TOURETTE.]
_Grasse to the Pont du Loup by Le Bar_, 7½ m. N.E. Carriage with two
horses there and back, 15 frs. Omnibus to Le Bar 3 times daily, 1 fr.
Distance, 5½ m. N.E.; whence it is a pleasant walk of 2 m. up the
valley of the Loup to the inn and Pont du Loup, at the mouth of the
Gorge du Loup. From the Pont 2½ hours of fatiguing walking up the
ravine of the Loup brings the traveller to the falls of the Loup,
which requires a good deal of rain to make them imposing. The whole
way from Grasse to Vence is by a beautiful Corniche road, nearly on
the same level (1090 ft.) throughout its entire course, disclosing at
every turn exquisite views towards the sea. The Pont du Loup, with its
little cluster of houses and orange-gardens, is at the top of a long
narrow valley, just at the point where the Loup rushes forth from a
rocky gorge. On the top of a plateau, about 500 ft. over the Pont du
Loup, is the village of Gourdon. From the terrace adjoining the church
of Le Bar there is an excellent view of Gourdon, the valley of the
Loup, and of the carriage-road on both sides of it. Those who visit
the Pont du Loup generally content themselves with a ramble in the
gorge, and then, after having taken some refreshments, either return
to Grasse or go on to the railway station of Vence-Cagnes (see
p. 169), 13½ m. farther, or 21 m. from Grasse. The drive from Grasse
to Vence-Cagnes station in a private carriage costs 30 frs. The very
same road is traversed by the omnibus from Grasse to Vence, 15 m.
eastward. Fare, 2 frs. Time, 4 hours. A seat should be taken in the
“Imperial.” Next day, at one, start from Vence to Cagnes railway
station by another omnibus. Fare, 1 fr. Time, 1 hour. Distance, 6 m.
The road from the Pont to Vence continues to follow the course of the
Loup till within a few miles of the village of Tourette, pop. 980, at
the foot of Le Puy de Tourette, 4158 ft. above the sea, where the
omnibus halts.
[Headnote: VENCE.]
+Vence+, 1100 ft. above the sea, pop. 2800. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or, pension
9 frs. Picturesquely situated on a hill in the midst of mountains
clothed with olive trees and studded with houses standing singly and
in clusters. This, the ancient Vintium, has still large portions of
its old walls and ramparts, with massive square towers (11th cent.)
next the gates. At the northern entrance is the ancient palace of the
Lords of Vence, with a beautiful tower, built in the 15th cent., in
the style of the palaces of Florence, only without a court, for which
there was no space. In front is a fine old ash tree, sadly
mutilated.
The bishopric of Vence, founded in 374, was afterwards united to that
of Frejus. In the centre of the town is the cathedral, 110 ft. long,
68 ft. wide, and about 70 high, inside measure. Two aisles with
massive piers and semicircular arches (slightly stilted) are on each
side of the nave. Above is a triforium 15 ft. wide. Roof
waggon-vaulted. The choir, containing 50 stalls in dark carved oak, is
in a gallery opposite the altar, in the position usually occupied by
the organ. At the N.E. corner of the church is an ancient and
beautiful baptismal font, of which, unfortunately, a large piece of
the pedestal is sunk into the ground. The chancel was formerly a Roman
temple. The column now in the square behind the church, and the other
over a well at the west end, stood formerly at the entrance into the
temple. On the table of the second altar right is part of a sculptured
stone which formerly adorned this temple. In the next chapel is the
tomb of St. Lambert, many years Bishop of Vence, with Latin
inscription on table of altar. Under the chancel is the vault in which
the bishops were buried, while the vault of the Lords of Vence was
under the nave. The present “Place” behind the chancel was the public
cemetery. Several stones with inscriptions are on the walls. One slab
bears an eagle in relief, and under it is a still larger stone
sculptured in a diaper pattern, with a stork and crowing cocks worked
into the design. The style resembles that of the old carved door in
the first chapel right of altar, all probably of the 14th or 15th
cent.
[Headnote: ROCHE-BLANCHE. ROCHER-NOIR.]
To the N. of Vence is a row of four calcareous mountain cliffs,
extending eastward to the Var, and each about 2000 ft. above the sea.
The most prominent is the mighty cliff above Vence called the
+Roche-Blanche+, commanding a superb view. On the summit are the
remains of a walled village and castle, and less than half-way up the
ruins of a castle of the Knight-Templars. The road up to the summit is
by the first narrow path beyond the castle, ascending through beds of
wild thyme and bushes of the prickly broom. The next hill is the
Rocher-Noir, having on its eastern side, right above the bed of the
Cagnes, a “foux,” an immense cave called the Riou, containing a large
basin of water, whence flows a copious stream. It is 3½ m. from Vence.
The next cliff rises over St. Jeannet, and bears its name. The most
easterly is La Gaude, with vineyards producing one of the better wines
of Provence, drank as vin ordinaire during the first year, when still
sweet and unripe, but of good body and agreeable in the fifth and
sixth years, when it costs 1½ to 2 frs. the litre bottle. Vence is
famous for double violets. They are cultivated in hollows between
furrows, and are sold to the makers of perfumes at the rate of 3s. 8d.
the pound. A woman will gather 4 kilogrammes (8 lbs. 13 oz.) in a day,
for which she is paid at the rate of 2½d. the kilo.
[Headnote: CAGNES.]
The road from Vence to the Cagnes railway station descends the whole
way, passing at some distance the village of St. Paul, pop. 700, with
part of its old walls, and below it the village of La Colle, pop.
1500. The coach drives through the low or modern town of Cagnes.
_Inn:_ Savournin, not comfortable during the mosquito season. The real
town occupies, as usual, a hill, on the summit of which is a castle
built by the Grimaldi, a polygonal tower bought by the present owner
at an auction; who has restored the painting by Carloni on the ceiling
of the Salle Dorée, representing the Flight of Phaeton, and has also
added a small picture gallery. A little way down from the castle are
the ruins of the small abbey church of St. Veran, 6th cent. The
chancel is still in good preservation. From Cagnes the views are not
equal to those from Vence. (For the Vence-Cagnes station, see
p. 169.)
ST. VALLIER.
+Grasse to Digne+, 63 m. north.--By the courrier 16 frs., changing
coach at Castellane. Fare to St. Vallier, 2½ frs., Escragnolles
4 frs., Castellane 8½ frs., Barrème 11½ frs., and Digne 16 frs. By
private coach from Grasse, with two horses, 100 frs. Dining first day
at Escragnolles, and passing the night at Castellane. Next day
breakfasting at Barrème, and then driving down to Digne (see map,
p. 165).
The road between Grasse and Digne is broad, well constructed, and
rises at an angle from 5 to 7 in the 100. From Grasse to St. Vallier
(2350 ft. above the sea, or 1260 ft. above Grasse, and 6½ m. distant,
population 536) the ascent is continuous, disclosing all the way grand
views of Cannes, the sea, and the Estérel and the Tanneron mountains.
The courrier and private carriages halt generally a few minutes in the
“Place,” near the column with a marble bust of Napoleon I., indicating
the spot where he reposed “2 Mars 1815.” The Hôtel du Nord is about
100 yards from this. The house is pretty comfortable, and charges per
day from 8 to 9 frs. A carriage from this hotel, towards the
Ponte-à-Dieu, as far as it can go, 3½ m., costs 5 frs. The remainder
can be walked in about half an hour. A carriage from Grasse to St.
Vallier, and towards the Pont-à-Dieu and back, 20 frs. The Pont-à-Dieu
is a calcareous rock which spans the Siagne in the form of a bridge,
like the “Pont” across the Ardèche.
From St. Vallier the road makes very circuitous windings on the steep
sides of the mountains, ascending nearly all the way to Escragnolles,
a hamlet, pop. 320, consisting of a few houses and a small roadside
inn, with clean but hard beds, and plain and scanty fare, situated
3282 ft. above the sea, or 2192 ft. above and 18 m. north from Grasse.
A little before arriving at Escragnolles is seen, in a deep valley,
one of the principal sources of the river Siagne. The views from
Escragnolles and Castellane exhibit lofty, wild, and partially-wooded
mountains, with fields of wheat on laboriously-terraced ground.
[Headnote: CASTELLANE. TAULANNE.]
19 m. N.W. from Escragnolles, or 37¼ from Grasse, is +Castellane+,
2370 ft. above the sea. Pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Levant; Commerce. A village
of crooked streets on the Verdon, crossed by a bridge of one arch. A
narrow path leads to the top of the lofty cliff on which is the chapel
of Notre Dame, rebuilt in 1703, commanding a most extensive prospect.
Napoleon I. descended into Italy by the road on the left bank of the
river. Those in private carriages generally spend the night here.
A small coach runs between Castellane and Digne, which, although not
very comfortable, is much better than the courrier in bad weather.
18 m. W. from Castellane by a mountain-road is Moustiers Sainte Marie
(see p. 167). From Castellane the road by a series of zigzags reaches
the top of the Col St. Pierre, 3600 ft., and then descends to
+Taulanne+, 7 m. N.W. from Castellane. From Taulanne the road descends
5 m. S., chiefly through a picturesque ravine, to +Senez+, pop. 620,
among wild barren mountains, at the foot of Mont La Combe, on the
river Asse. The hamlet has a poor inn, and a cathedral built during
1130 to 1242.
[Headnote: BARRÈME. DIGNE.]
44¼ m. N.W. from Grasse, and 18¾ m. S. from Digne, is +Barrème+, pop.
1100, on the confluence of the Clumane with the Asse. Breakfast is
taken here, and the diligence changes horses. Cloth-mills and trade in
dried fruits, especially prunes. In the neighbourhood is a saline
spring. The road from Barrème to Digne descends by a ridge between the
valleys of the Asse and the Clumane.
+Digne+, pop. 8000, 2000 ft. above the sea, 14 m. E. by loop-line from
the station St. Auban on the main line. St. Auban is 80½ m. N. from
Marseilles, 62¼ m. N. from Aix, and 20½ m. N. from Manosque. It is
109½ m. S. from Grenoble; 45½ m. S. from Aspres, the terminus of the
road from Die; 41 m. S. from Veynes, whence commences the loop-line to
Gap; and 31¾ m. S. from Serre, the terminus of the road from Nyons
(see map of Rhône and Savoy). _Hotels:_ Boyer; Remusat, both in the
Boulevard Gassendi, near the statue of Pierre Gassendi (1592-1655),
one of the most eminent philosophers of France. This, the ancient
Dinia, the capital of the Avantici, is situated chiefly on hilly
ground rising from the Bléonne and the Eaux-Chaudes. On the highest
part is the cathedral, and on the plain up the river, near the
seminary, the much more interesting church of Notre Dame, 12th cent.,
numbered among the historic monuments of France. 1¼ m. up the
Eaux-Chaudes, at the foot of Mt. St. Pancras, are sulphurous springs,
temp. 115° Fahr., efficacious in the cure of wounds and rheumatism.
Bath, 2 frs. From Digne Napoleon issued his proclamation of March
1815. Digne makes a good resting-place and good headquarters. Both of
the hotels are comfortable and moderate, 8 to 10 frs. per day, and
both supply carriages at so much per day (see map, p. 165).
[Headnote: RIEZ. BARJOLS.]
Among the many diligences that start from Digne, the most important is
to +Riez+, 26 m. S.W., fare 4 frs., time 4½ hrs., a great diligence
centre. Riez, pop. 3000, on the Colostre, at the foot of Mont St.
Maxime. _Inn:_ H. des Alpes, whence start coaches daily for Manosque,
22 m. W., by Allemagne, 5 m.; St. Martin, 8 m.; and to Gréoulx (see
p. 167), 12½ m. S.W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, fare
4 frs. For Moustiers Sainte Marie (see p. 167), 9 m. E., by
Roumoulles, fare 2 frs. For +Montmelian+, 18 m. S., by Quinson.
Travellers on their way to Draguignan spend the night at Montmelian,
H. Sicard, and proceed next morning to Aups, 9½ m. E., _Inn:_ H. du
Cours, and thence to Draguignan. From Montmelian a coach runs to
Barjols, _Inn:_ H. Pont d’Or, 9½ m. S., whence other coaches run to
Brignoles (see p. 142). For +Valensole+, 7½ m. W., whence to Volx
railway station, other 7 m. W. From Volx coach to +Digne+, 25 m. N.,
by Puymoisson, 3¾ m. N.; Le Begude, 8 m.; Estoublon, 11¾ m.; Mezèl on
the Asse, _Inn:_ H. du Cours, 15¾ m.; and Châteauredon, 7½ m. S. from
Digne. All these roads traverse sometimes deep valleys and at other
times extend across wide elevated tablelands. Down in the valleys are
olive trees, in the higher regions quinces, plums, walnuts, and
cherries (see map, p. 165).
Riez, the Colonia Julia-Augusta of the Romans, is still partly
surrounded by its old fortifications, of which the highest of the
towers has been converted into a belfry. Up the main street, through
either of the gateways, are houses with sculptured doors and transomed
windows which tell of better days. Near the two inns, but on the other
side of the river, is La Rotonde, a temple, square externally,
enclosing a peristyle of 8 monolith granite Corinthian columns,
bearing an elongated octagonal dome. The diameter of the circle is
about 23 ft. Near it are the remains of a colonnade consisting of 4
composite monolith granite columns. On the top of Mont St. Maxime is
the chapel St. Maxime, 10th cent., restored and altered in 1857. It is
17 yds. long and 10 wide, outside measure. On each side of the chancel
are three Corinthian columns similar to those in the round chapel. At
the S.W. corner is a short square tower with a spire. From the brow of
the eminence, where there is a statue of Mary, there is an excellent
view of the dingy town and of the pleasing valley of the Colostre.
[Headnote: MOUSTIERS STE. MARIE.]
A very pleasant drive of 9½ m. E., fare 2 frs., is to the curious
village of Moustiers Ste. Marie by the courrier, starting at 2 and
returning at 4. _Inn:_ H. du Mouton Couronné. The village consists of
poor dingy houses, partly in a narrow gully and partly on the slopes,
at the base of vertical calcareous sandstone cliffs, rising to the
height of from 500 to 1000 ft. Between two opposite points of these
precipices is a chain 745 ft. long, from which was suspended a gilt
iron star which fell in 1878. Up the cliffs, by the stair of the “Via
Crucis,” is the chapel of Notre Dame, almost immediately below the
chain. Several caves are in the neighbourhood. Lower down is the
parish church of the 10th and 13th cents. From the S. side rises a
square belfry in three diminishing stages. Between Moustiers and Riez
is Roumoulles, with the ruins of a castle. 18 m. E. from Moustiers is
Castellane, but no public coach runs between them.
[Headnote: BATHS OF GRÉOULX.]
12½ m. W. from Riez, and 9½ m. E. from Manosque, is +Gréoulx+, pop.
1400, a dirty village on a hill rising from the Verdon. On the top are
the gaunt ruins of a castle built by the Knight-Templars. Less than
½ m. from the village is the hotel and the bathing establishment. The
rooms cost from 2 to 5 frs. Coffee in the morning, 60 cents. Breakfast
and dinner, 7 frs. Service, ½ fr. Or the lowest price per day,
10 frs., which is dear considering the quality of the house and
furniture. Bath, 2 frs. Cure lasts 25 days. The establishment is
1150 ft. above the sea. The mineral water, of which there is a most
abundant supply, is limpid and unctuous, and tastes like slightly salt
new milk. Temp. 95° to 100° Fahr. The principal ingredient is the
chloride of soda, and, in less quantities, the chloride of magnesia,
the carbonate of lime, and the sulphate of lime and soda. The water is
also rich in organic substances, such as baregine and glairine along
with other sulphurous compounds, which develop themselves rapidly when
the water is exposed to the action of the air. This organic matter is
used in the mud-baths for the cure of sores and tumours. The baths are
partially sunk into the floor, and are easily entered. The flow of
water into and out of them is constant. Coaches daily from Gréoulx to
Manosque, Mirabeau, and Riez (map, p. 165).
[Headnote: MANOSQUE.]
+Manosque+, pop. 6200, on the railway between Marseilles and Grenoble,
22 m. north from Pertuis, 41½ m. from Aix, 48½ m. from Gardanne, and
59½ m. from Marseilles. 4½ m. south from Volx, 20½ m. from St. Auban,
31 m. from Sisteron, 61½ m. from Veynes, 66 m. from Aspres, and
130½ m. from Grenoble (see map of Rhône and Savoy).
_Hotels:_ Pascal; Eymon, commanding an extensive view of the
surrounding mountains; near it the G. H. de Versailles; and the Poste.
Manosque is situated on an eminence rising from the plain of the
Durance, nearly surrounded by hills covered with vineyards and olive
trees. Portions of the town walls and towers still remain, and the
eastern and western gateways have been repaired and restored. Entering
the town by the gate close to the hotels, we ascend the narrow and
badly-paved principal street to the church of St. Sauveur, easily
recognised by the square belfry attached to the S.E. end. Within the
main entrance are two large caryatides. The windows of the façade are
circular, the others small and round-headed with modern glass. On each
side of the nave are semicircular arches of a great span; the chancel
is extremely shallow, the roof 4 partite, and the floor considerably
lower than the street. The narrow lane opposite the corner of the
façade leads to the principal “Place,” where there is a fountain, and
whence there is a good view. Higher up the principal street is Notre
Dame, in exactly the same style as St. Sauveur. The table or altar in
the chapel to the left of the high altar is formed of a marble
sarcophagus, 5th cent., with figures, in bold relief, of the apostles,
and in the centre a crucifixion. Above is a black image of Mary and
child, supposed to date from the 6th cent. In the Hôtel de Ville is a
silver bust by Puget of Gérard Jung, the founder of the order of the
Hospitallers, a religious community whose office was to relieve the
stranger, the poor, and the sick. In the neighbourhood are deposits of
gypsum and lignite. Coach daily to Riez, 5 hrs., 22 m. E.; to the
baths of Gréoulx, in the same direction; to +Apt+ (see index), 26 m.
W., by Reillane 15½ m., and Céreste 20½ m. W. +Volx+ station is the
intended terminus of the rail from Apt.
[Headnote: VALLAURIS.]
miles from MARSEILLES
miles to MENTON
{124}{31}
+GOLF JOUAN+ or +VALLAURIS+. A few yards straight up from the station is
a short column, which marks the spot where Napoleon bivouacked after his
arrival from Elba on March 1, 1815. A very pleasant road, lined with
villas, connects this small port with Cannes. Opposite station are
pottery showrooms.
[Headnote: ANTIBES.]
{127}{28}
+ANTIBES+, pop. 6000. _Hotels:_ Escouffier, Aigles d’Or. A fortified
port founded by the Greeks, but, with the exception of two old towers,
without any mark of antiquity. The streets are lined with tolerable
houses. In the square the inhabitants have erected a monument to their
valour. Those wishing a bird’s-eye view of the town should ascend the
tower beside the church. The bellman’s house is close by. The wine of
Antibes is of superior quality (see p. 154). From Antibes station
omnibus to Biot, pop. 1400.
{132}{23}
+VENCE-CAGNES.+ At this station coaches await passengers for Cagnes,
pop. 3000, about 1 mile distant. It is built on the slope of a hill, and
contains the old mansion of the Grimaldi. Six miles northwards by the
same road is +Vence+, pop. 3000, with an old cathedral and several
interesting antiquities. It is famous for figs, and flowers for
perfumery. One mile distant is St. Martin, with a splendid view from the
terrace, and most picturesque environs. Between Vence-Cagnes and Nice
runs a diligence (see p. 165).
{136}{19}
+VAR.+ This station is on the left or Nice side of the river Var, at the
eastern end of the viaduct over the mouth of the river. ¾ m. N.W. from
the station by the road to St. Martin are the Nice nurseries or
pépinières, extensive, but not well kept. About 2 m. N.E. from the
station, up on the hill, is the Caucade cemetery, in three stages. The
first is used by the French, the next by the English, and the highest by
the Russians. The last two contain many beautiful marble monuments.
At the mouth of the Var is the racecourse. The races take place in
January.
NICE
is 140 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 95½ m. N.E. from Toulon, 95¼ m. N.E.
from Hyères, 39 m. N.E. from St. Raphael, and 19¼ m. N.E. from Cannes.
It is 9½ m. W. from Monaco, 15 m. S.W. from Menton, 23½ m. S.W. from
Bordighera, and 30 m. S.W. from San Remo (see railway map, fly-leaf).
Situated on the Bay des Anges and on the embouchure of the Paillon,
mostly covered over, pop. 66,300.
[Headnote: HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]
Hotels and Pensions on the Promenade des Anglais, taking them in the
order of east to west. The Hôtel des Anglais, with one side to the
“Jardin Public.” Next it is the Cercle (club) de la Méditerranée; and
opposite it, projecting into the sea, a casino. On the other side of the
cercle is the H. Luxembourg. Then follow the Pension Rivoir, 13 to 18
frs.; the H. Méditerranée, H. Westminster, and the H. West End, all
first-class houses charging from 15 to 25 frs. per day.
The following are at the western end of the Promenade, and, as they have
considerable gardens in front, the inmates do not hear the noise of the
sea so much. The H. de l’Elysée, No. 59; the Pension *Anglaise, 8 to 11
frs., No. 77; the H. Continental, 10 to 15 frs. On the Boulevard du
Midi, the eastern prolongation of the Promenade des Anglais, are the
Beau Rivage; the H. des Princes, 12 to 15 frs.; and on the Quai des
Pouchettes, the *H. et P. Suisse, 8½ to 12 frs.
Around the “Jardin Public” are the first-class houses, the Angleterre
and the Bretagne. On the Quai Massena the H. de France; while in the
Place Massena are the best cafés and restaurants, large cab-stands, and
the terminus of the trams. Over the river near the Place Massena is the
Casino Municipal, fronting the Quai St. Jean Baptiste, on which are the
hotels Cosmopolitain; the Paix; and the Grand Hotel, fronting the garden
in the Square Massena. These hotels are first-class, and charge from 10
to 20 frs. Higher up is a second-class house, frequented chiefly by
French, the H. Ferrand, 8 to 10 frs.
On and near the Avenue de la Gare are some excellent hotels and
pensions. Taking them in the order of the Place Massena towards the
railway station we have, under the arches, the hotels Meublés, Deux
Mondes, and opposite the Univers. Then follow the hotels Ambassadeurs
with garden, Iles Britanniques, Prince of Wales, all the three from 10
to 20 frs. Opposite, at No. 42, is the H. and R. Duval, 9 to 12 frs. At
the top of the R. de la Gare, the H. National, 9 to 12 frs., and the
Hotel des Alpes.
In the streets at right angles to the R. de la Gare near the H. Iles
Britanniques are the Russian, German, English, and Scotch churches, and
some comfortable hotels and pensions, mostly with gardens. The best of
the hotels are the *Paradis and the *Louvre, in the Boul. Longchamp,
near the Scotch Church. At the western end of the Boul. Longchamp, the
H. et P. des Palmiers, and the H. Splendide, all from 10 to 20 frs. Near
the Splendide is the P. Java, 9 to 11 frs.
[Map: Nice]
Behind the Scotch Church are the P. Internationale and the H. et P. de
Genève. Next the Russian Church is the P. Helvétique. Near it the
H. Royal; the H. et P. Mignon and the P. *Millet, entered from R. St.
Etienne, 8 to 12 frs.
At W. end of the R. de la Paix the H. Raissan, 10 to 12 frs.; near it
the Russie and the Beau Site, both quiet houses with gardens.
Opposite the station the H. et P. du Midi, 9 to 11 frs. Farther down the
H. et P. Interlaken, 8 to 11 frs. with wine.
From the E. side of the Avenue de la Gare parallel streets extend to the
Boulevard Carabacel. In the first of these, the Rue Carnieri, is the
Theatre Français. In the Rue Pastorelli the Pension St. Etienne and the
H. Négociants, 8 to 12 frs. In the broad B. Dubouchage are the
first-class houses--the H. Littoral; *Empereurs; *Albion. Behind the
Albion, in the Rue Alberti, the H. et P. d’Orient. The large building in
the B. Dubouchage is the Bourse. Near it is the American Episcopal
Church. In the Avenue Beaulieu are the H. Central and the G. H. *Rubion.
The hotels, pensions, and villas at the end of the B. Dubouchage, and
about the B. Carabacel, are frequented by delicate people, who sun
themselves in the gardens and boulevards of this quarter. At the
Carabacel end of the B. Dubouchage are the first-class houses--the
H. Hollande; H. *Windsor; and opposite, the H. *Julien. On an eminence
in a garden off the B. Carabacel is the H. *Nice. Then follow, on the
B. Carabacel, the H. Bristol, P. Londres, H. de Paris, and houses with
furnished apartments. In this quarter is the Carabacel Episcopal Church,
and near it the Hôtel Carabacel.
On the way up to Cimiès, the G. H. Windsor. On Cimiès Hill, near the
Convent of St. Barthélemy, is the H. et P. *Barthélemy, on the road to
the Val Obscur, and near many pleasant rambles. On the Cimiès Hill, on
opposite sides of the Amphitheatre, are the H. et P. Cimiès, and the
Pension Anglaise, in the three houses from 9 to 12 frs. They are about
2 m. from Nice, and 430 ft. above it. The tram from the Place Massena
has its terminus near the P. Barthélemy. The H. Cimiès has its own
omnibus. The town omnibus runs within a short distance of the
P. Anglaise.
In the street behind the Promenade des Anglais, the R. de France, and
its continuation the R. Massena, are hotels and pensions, with moderate
prices. Commencing at west end and going eastward--at No. 100, in
garden, the P. Torelli. On the hill behind the H. de Rome, 12 frs. At
No. 121 is the H. de l’Elysée, with front to the Promenade des Anglais.
At No. 46 the P. *Metropole, 8 to 10 frs.; and opposite, the H. du
Pavillon, with front to the Promenade des Anglais. At No. 34 the
P. Lampiano, 9 to 11 frs. At No. 30 R. Massena the H. St. André, 8 frs.
In the Place Massena the H. et R. Helder, 18 frs. For commercial
gentlemen the best is the H. des Étrangers, R. Pont Neuf, 9 to 10 frs.
Those requiring to study economy will, by a little search through the
private pensions, find very comfortable and moderately-priced lodgings.
In the meantime they may alight at any of the following houses, where
they can arrange at the prices given:--H. du Midi, opp. station, 8 to 11
frs., 3 meals, wine extra. At the head of the Avenue de la Gare the H.
des Alpes and the H. National, 9 to 12 frs. At 17 B. Carabacel H. et P.
de Londres, 8 to 10 frs. with wine. In the Rue de France the P.
*Metropole, 8 to 10 frs. At the west end of the Promenade des Anglais
the Pension Anglaise, 8 to 10 frs. In the Rue Massena the H. St. André,
8 frs., including everything. In the R. Gioffredo the H. and
R. Montesquieu, 8 to 9 frs.
[Headnote: CAFÉS. BANKS.]
_Cafés._--The best in the Place Massena. _Restaurants._--The *London
House, Pl. du Jardin Public. Restaurant *Française, 3 Av. de la Gare,
and at No. 11 Rest. d’Europe. _Clubs or Cercles._--The Cercle de la
Méditerranée in the Prom. des Anglais. Cercle Massena, Quai St. Jean.
_Banks._--The Banque de France, 6 Quai du Midi. The best for all kinds
of banking business and money changing is the “Credit Lyonnais,” 15
Avenue de la Gare. Other banks--the Banque de Nice, 6 P. Massena;
Lacroix et Roissard, 2 P. Massena; Viterbo, 13 Avenue de la Gare.
_House Agents._--John Arthur and Co., 1 Place Jardin Public; C. Jougla,
55 R. Gioffredo; Salvi and Co., 2 R. du Temple.
_Post Office_, 20 Rue St. François de Paul, behind the Quai du Midi.
Most of the clocks have two minute-hands, one for railway or Paris time,
the other for Nice time. The railway time is 20 minutes behind the Nice
time. In the same street is the excellent public library, with 45,000
volumes. Open from 10 to 3 and 7 to 10 P.M. It contains a few
antiquities, some Roman milestones, a collection of medals, and a bust
of Caterina Segurana. The Museum of Natural History is in No. 6 Place
Garibaldi. Observatory on the top of Mont Gros, 1201 ft. above the sea.
_Booksellers._--Galignani, 15 Quai Massena, with well-supplied
reading-room; Barbery, Place du Jardin Public; Visconti, 2 Rue du
Cours. Cook’s office adjoins Galignani’s. Gaze’s is at No. 13, and
Caygill’s No. 15 Avenue de la Gare.
_Druggists._--Of these there are excellent English establishments in
the principal streets.
_Confectioneries and Perfumeries._--Of the confections the _specialité_
of Nice is candied Parma violets, sold in little round boxes weighing
100 grammes, or 3½ oz., for 5 frs. the box. The most expensive of the
glazed fruits are pine-apple, 10 frs. the kilogramme (2 lbs. 3¼ oz.),
strawberries, 10 frs., and apricots, without the stones, 8 frs. All the
others cost either 5 or 6 frs. the kilo. The best shops are-- *Caëtan
Féa, 4 Avenue de la Gare; Guitton and Rudel, 23 same street; and
*Escoffier, in the Place Massena. Rimmel’s garden and perfume distillery
are near the slaughter-house, on the left bank of the Paillon.
[Headnote: CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES.]
_Churches._--Temple Évangélique or Vaudois in the Rue Gioffredo; Russian
Memorial Chapel, N.W. from the station; Russian Church, Rue Longchamp;
German Church, Rue Adelaide; American Church, Rue Carabacel. Trinity
Church, Rue de France; St. Michael’s, Rue St. Michel; Carabacel
Episcopal Church, at the east end of the Rue Notre Dame. Scotch Church,
in the Rues St. Etienne and Adelaide.
Steamers to Marseilles, Genoa, Leghorn, and Corsica once weekly.
_Coach hire._--A carriage with coachman and 2 horses, 750 frs. per
month. Per day, 30 frs. There are many excellent livery stables, where
carriages and riding horses can be had per day or per month.
_Cabs._--Drivers have to produce their tariffs. Cab with 1 horse and
seat for 2, the course 75 c.; seats for 4, 1 fr. The hour, seat for 2,
2½ frs.; seats for 4, 3 frs. Cabs with 2 horses, the course 1½ fr.; the
hour, 3½ frs.
To or from the station. Cab with seat for 2, 1 fr.; with seats for 4, 1½
fr. Cab with 2 horses, 1 fr. 15 sous. Each article on top of cab 25 c.,
and 25 c. for each stoppage. It is better, if not sure of a hotel, to
engage the cab by the hour.
All the _tram cars_ start from the Place Massena.
[Headnote: CONTES.]
_Diligences._--From the office, No. 34 Boulevard du Pont Neuf, start
daily:--Coach to St. Martin Lantosque, 3117 ft. above the sea, and 37 m.
N. from Nice. Fare 6 frs., time 10 hrs. (see p. 180). Coach to
Puget-Théniers, 1476 ft. above the sea, and 42 m. N.W. from Nice. Fare
2½ frs., time 9 hrs. (see p. 182). To St. Sauveur, 40½ m. N. (p. 182).
Omnibus twice daily during the winter season to Monte Carlo, by the low
Corniche road. From the office, Place St. François, start:--Coach to
Cuneo, 80 m. N., by Tenda and the Col di Tenda tunnel. Fare 16 frs.,
time 18 hrs. Coach to Tenda alone, 2680 ft. above the sea, and 51 m. N.
from Nice. Fare 9 frs., time 11 hrs. (see p. 182). From Hôtel Chapeau
Rouge, Quai St. Jean Baptiste, coach to Levens, 1916 ft. above the sea,
and 15 m. N. from Nice. Fare 3 frs., time 4 hrs. From the Cloche d’Or,
Rue de l’Aqueduct, coach to Contes, fare 1½ fr., time 2 hrs., 10½ m. N.
up the valley of the Paillon, passing the pretty village of
Trinité--Victor, 5½ m. N., pop. 1300; Drap, on both sides of the
Paillon; and then on a hill to the left, 2½ hrs. distant by a path, the
ruins of the village Châteauneuf, abandoned on account of the want of
water. Contes, pop. 1700, has good country inns, gardens full of orange
trees, and vineyards producing good wine. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats
to Trinité-Victor and back, 5 frs.; ½ hour’s rest allowed.
[Headnote: CLIMATE.]
_Climate._--If I should be asked to draw a comparison between Nice and
Cannes with respect to climate, I should be inclined to call Nice a
trifle colder in winter, especially if there be much snow on the
mountains. M. Teysseire has preserved and published records of twenty
years’ meteorological observations taken at Nice with instruments placed
outside his window, on a fourth floor facing the north-north-east. His
mean results for the twenty years are as follow; to which, for the sake
of comparison, I append the means of my six winter seasons at Cannes:--
MEAN TEMPERATURE.
Nice. Cannes.
November 53.8 52.6
December 48.5 46.3
January 47.1 48
February 46.2 48.8
March 51.8 51
April 58.1 55.5
The mistral is as well known at Nice as it is at Cannes.--_Health
Resorts_, by M. Marcet, M.D.
[Headnote: VALLONS.]
Nice occupies a plain bounded by the limestone summits of the Maritime
Alps, whence descend fertile wooded ridges composed of a reddish
conglomerate and a gray-blue clay of the Pleiocene period. Between these
ridges are deep vallons, gullies, or furrows, with precipitous sides,
scooped out to a great depth by the intermittent action of torrents, the
breadth and depth of the valleys depending on the volume of water in the
stream and the degree of consistence of the conglomerate. The great
vallons have tributary vallons. The pleasant Vallon de Magnan
exemplifies both kinds. From the Pont de Magnan (near which a tram
stops) the first tributary is nearly a mile up the stream, opening from
the right or west side. This vallon is short, the walls nearly
perpendicular, and in some parts scarcely 2 ft. apart. Higher up the
Magnan, and opening from the left or east side, next a church, is the
more beautiful and more extensive tributary vallon, the Madeleine, which
high up becomes so narrow and so choked with troublesome brambles as to
be almost impassable. The banks are covered with vegetation, and the
more level parts with maritime pines and olive trees. At the entrance
are beds of clay of immense thickness, of which fire-bricks are made.
The Mantéga Vallon, entered from the Chemin de Mantéga (see plan), has
great walls of clay and conglomerate. The softer conglomerate is
quarried and broken up for its sandy dolomitic material, which, mixed
with lime, makes excellent mortar.
The city of Nice consists of three distinct parts:--1st, the new or
fashionable quarter, stretching westwards from the Paillon, containing
avenues and gardens, and broad and well-paved streets bordered with
large and elegant buildings, of which a large proportion are hotels and
“pensions;” 2d, the Old Town, a perfect labyrinth of narrow, dirty,
steep streets, radiating from the Cathedral as a sort of centre, and
running up the sides of the Château hill, which separates it from, 3d,
the Port, with its seafaring population, and about 16 acres of harbour.
During the season, from November to April, Nice is a luxurious city,
with the attractions and resources of the great northern capitals. In
winter the population may be estimated at 90,000, whereas in summer it
is only about 54,000, a diminution in numbers apparent only in the
largest and most elegant part of the city. The non-fluctuating
population inhabit the crowded tenements in the narrow streets huddled
together between the Paillon and the Château hill.
[Headnote: PROMENADE. CASTLE. CEMETERY.]
The glory of Nice is the Promenade des Anglais, commenced by the English
in 1822 to employ the poor during a season of scarcity. This beautiful
terraced walk, 85 ft. broad, extends 2 m. along the beach of the Baie
des Anges, from the Quai Lunel of the Port to the mouth of the Magnan,
whence it will be continued other 3 m. west to the mouth of the river
Var, near the Racecourse.
Over the Port rises the Castlehill, 315 ft., commanding from the
platform, in every direction, the most charming views. To the E. are the
peninsula of St. Jean and Cape Boron, and rising from it, Fort
Montalban, Mt. Vinaigrier, and the Observatory residence and buildings.
To the N. is Mt. Chauve; to the E. the roofs of Nice; and in the
distance the Roche-Blanche (p. 164), the peninsula of Antibes, and the
Estérels. This fortress, founded by the early Phœnician colonists, and
destroyed and rebuilt at various periods afterwards, was finally razed
to the ground in 1706, by order of Louis XIV., by Maréchal Berwick. Now
it has become the great park of Nice. A round tower that still remains,
over the Hôtel des Princes, called the Tour Bellanda, was probably added
to the Castle by Emmanuel Philibert in 1560. On the W. side of the hill
(see plan) is the cemetery in five stages. At the entrance is the
monument to the “Victimes de l’Incendie du Theatre, 23d March 1881.”
Towards the E. end, at the wall, is the grave of Rosa Garibaldi, d. 19th
March 1852. The tombstone was placed by her son, General Garibaldi. In
the highest terrace is the grave containing Gambetta and his mother. In
a terrace by itself in the eastern end is the Protestant cemetery.
[Headnote: CATERINA SEGURANA. MEMORIAL CHAPEL.]
Near the harbour, and above the Quai Lunel, is the statue of King
Charles Felix. In the Rue du Murier, leading down from the Rue Segurane
to the Port, is the mulberry tree where Caterina Segurana had her tent.
On the 15th of August 1543 she, at the head of a devoted band, attacked
the allied French and Turkish forces commanded by François de Bourbon
and the Turk Barbarossa, struck down with her own hand the
standard-bearer, and put the enemy to flight. Giuseppe Garibaldi was
born, 19th July 1807, in a house which stood at the head of the Port
before its enlargement. In a small street, ramifying from the Rue
Segurane, is the church of St. Augustin, in which Luther preached in
1510. At the east end of the R. de la Préfecture, last street left, No.
15 R. Droite, is the Palais des Lascaris, with ceilings painted in
fresco by Carlone. It is now the “École Professionnelle.” This is also
the street of the jewellers patronised by the peasantry. Paganini died
(1840) in the house No. 14 R. de la Préfecture. The jambs and lintels of
the doorway are slightly decorated. The Cathedral and the other churches
in the old town are in the Italian style, ornamented with gilding and
variously-coloured marbles. The new church, Notre Dame, in the Avenue de
la Gare, is Gothic in style. The first non-Romanist church erected in
Nice was the Episcopal chapel of the Trinity in 1822. As it became too
small, the present church was built on the same site in 1856 at a cost
of £6000. To the N.W. of the railway station, by the Chemin St. Etienne,
in an orange grove, is the Russian Memorial Chapel, a series of
ascending domes, built over the spot on which stood the villa in which
the Prince Imperial of Russia died, April 24, 1865. The interior is
covered with designs in gold leaf, varied here and there by a light-blue
ground. Round the base runs a white marble panelling, enclosing frescoes
of saints in niches.
The principal thoroughfares in Nice are the Place Massena and the
handsome broad street the “Avenue de la Gare,” extending in a straight
line northward from the “Place” to the station. Next in importance are
the Quais Massena and St. Jean Baptiste. In the above are all the best
shops. The Rue Massena, and its continuation the Rue de France, behind
the Promenade des Anglais, contain shops principally of the provision
kind, British stores, grocers, wine merchants, confectioners, and
dressmakers. At the east end of the +Rue de France+ is the Croix de
Marbre, a marble crucifix under a canopy on four marble columns, erected
in 1568 to commemorate the visit of Charles V., Francis I., and
Paul III. in 1538, and the partial reconciliation of the two potentates
through the intervention of the Pope. The column opposite commemorates
the visits of Pio VII. in 1809 and in February 1814. Near this is
Trinity Church, and in the Rue Gioffredo the Temple Évangélique, the
second Protestant church built in Nice.
[Headnote: ANDRÉ MASSENA.]
On the arched part of the Paillon, fronting the Quai St. Jean, is the
large and handsome Casino, and a little farther up the river the pretty
public garden called the Square Massena, with a statue in the centre, in
an animated posture, of André Massena, Prince of Essling and Marshal of
France, who was born on May 7, 1758, in a house now demolished, which
stood on the Quai St. Jean Baptiste. In 1810 he was chosen by Napoleon
to stop the advance of Wellington in Portugal, and was commissioned “to
drive the English and their Sepoy general into the sea.” But the wary
strategy and imperturbable firmness of the British general proved
resistless, and Massena was compelled to save his military fame by a
masterly retreat. On the pedestal Clio is seen writing his name in the
chronicles of his native city. This garden forms a pleasant lounge, but
it is not so fashionable as the other farther down, at the mouth of the
river, called the “Jardin Public,” planted with magnolias, acacias,
Japan medlars, and gum, cork, camphor, and pepper trees. The band plays
here in the afternoon. The most beautiful of the public gardens is on
the Castlehill, intersected by footpaths and carriage-roads up to the
summit. On one side of the hill is the public cemetery.
[Headnote: CIMIÈS.]
All the side streets which ramify eastward from the Avenue de la Gare
lead to the Quartier Carabacel, one of the most sheltered parts of Nice,
and inhabited by the most delicate invalids. Above it, about 2 m.
distant, or 3 from the Place Massena, is Cimiès (430 ft. above the sea),
another favoured spot, frequented principally by nervous invalids
requiring a sedative climate. On the top of this hill stood the Roman
city Cemenelium, of which all that remains are the ruins of an
amphitheatre 210 ft. long by 175 wide. Just under the Boulevard Prince
de Galles are artistic ruins composed of ancient material gathered in
this neighbourhood. They stand in the spacious grounds of the superb
villa Val Rose, which in shape resembles Noe’s ark. Entrance from behind
G. H. Windsor. The first road right from the theatre leads to a
Franciscan convent built in 1543 on the site of a temple of Diana. The
altar-pieces of the two chapels to the right of the altar were painted
by Ludovico Brea, a contemporary of Raphael, and the only artist of
eminence Nice has produced. The cemetery contains some beautiful
tombstones. In the centre of the “Place,” on a spiral marble column, is
a crucifix with a winged J. C. Above is a pelican feeding its young,
a favourite Christian symbol of charity during the Middle Ages.
A path in the corner of the “Place” leads down to St. Pons (p. 179).
At No. 6 Place Garibaldi is the Museum of Natural History. The first
hall contains a collection of the fungi growing in the department; and
separate, under a glass case, specimens of those allowed to be sold in
the market for food.
[Headnote: DRIVES.]
The best of the drives from Nice is to Menton, 20 m. east, either by the
high Corniche road along the flanks of the mountains, passing above
Monaco, or by the beautiful new road which seldom rises much above the
coast, and passes through La Condamine to Monte Carlo. An omnibus runs
daily between the Boul. du Pont Neuf and Monte Carlo by this road (see
p. 187).
Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats to Villefranche and back, 5 frs.; ½ hour’s
rest allowed. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 7 frs. Above the Pont Neuf,
near the Place St. François, omnibuses (without fixed time) start for
Villefranche, ½ fr.; St. Jean, 15 sous; and Beaulieu, 15 sous. On
feast-days a steamer generally sails to Monaco. In the village of St.
Jean there is a very comfortable country inn, H. Victoria, where
bouillabaisse can always be had. Pension, 8½ frs. And at Beaulieu, close
to the station, is the *H. et P. des Anglais, pension 9½ to 12 frs.
Those who go from Nice to St. Jean with luggage should leave in the
omnibus, but for Beaulieu the rail should be taken. A carriage with 2
horses to St. Jean and Beaulieu and back, 25 frs. The tour round Mt
Boron, ascending by the new and descending by the old road, costs, in a
coach with 2 horses, 15 frs. Time, 1½ hour.
[Headnote: VAL-OBSCUR.]
+Nice to the Val-Obscur+, 4 m. N.--Take tram from the Place Massena to
St. Maurice, 2 m. N. It stops in front of the gate of the Villa
Chambrun, by the side of the Octroi. For the Vallon des Fleurs ascend by
the road to the right. For the Val-Obscur ascend by the road to the
left, passing the Chapelle du Ray. Carriages can drive the length of the
water-conduit. From this part the bed of the stream may be followed, but
as it is very stony it is better to keep on the path by the side of the
conduit as long as possible. The Val-Obscur is a deep ravine, 440 yards
long, between cliffs of an earthy conglomerate from 200 to 300 ft. high,
and 7 ft. apart at their narrowest point. By continuing this path for a
little distance past a house on the side of the hill, then crossing over
by a path to the right, we reach the chapel of St. Sebastien, whence a
road ascends to Mt. Chauve, passing by Le Ray, with an inn, 1446 ft.
above the sea, or only 1324 ft. below the summit of Mt. Chauve.
The +Vallon des Fleurs+ ou des Hepatiques is renowned for its olive
trees and its wild flowers in early spring. The commencement of the
valley is about 10 minutes’ walk from the St. Maurice terminus of the
tram. A path leads to the top of the valley. From the summit it leads
round by the head of other two vallons to the Cimiès road, which it
joins nearly opposite to the observatory, only a little higher up the
valley of the Paillon. The whole forms a very agreeable walk. (For
Cimiès, see p. 177.)
[Headnote: VILLA CLERY. ST. PONS. GROTTE ST. ANDRE.]
A much-frequented drive or walk is to the Grotte St. André, about 3¾ m.
N. from Nice by the west bank of the Paillon and the Vallon St. André.
A cab with 1 horse and 2 seats there and back, 5 frs.; with 2 horses
and 4 seats, 7 frs.; ½ hour’s stay allowed. Carriage, 15 frs. But
if the return to Nice be made by Falicon, 25 frs. When about 1½ m. up
the Paillon there is a large gate which gives access to the orchard of
the Villa Clery, containing some orange trees above 100 years old, yet
in the whole plantation there is not one well-developed specimen. The
oranges are sold at from 4½ to 6 frs. the 100, and packed and despatched
to order. Almost opposite, on the east side of the Paillon, are the more
beautiful gardens and perfume distillery of Rimmel. On the top of the
hill (430 ft.), above the Clery orchard, is seen the monastery of
Cimiès, built in 1543 after the original house, which stood near the
Croix de Marbre, had been destroyed by the Turks. The next large edifice
passed on the west bank is the monastery of St. Pons, built in 775 by
St. Syagrius, a contemporary of Charlemagne, on the spot where the Roman
senator St. Pontius suffered martyrdom. The emperor is said to have
spent some days here in 777 while on his way to Rome. In 890 it was
destroyed by the Saracens, and in 999 rebuilt by Fredericus, Bishop of
Nice. In 1388 the treaty was signed here by which Nice was annexed to
the house of Savoy. A short distance beyond, at the part where the
stream St. André unites with the Paillon, 3 m. from the Place Massena,
is the asylum for the insane. First-class boarders pay 4 frs. per day,
second 3 frs. A little higher up the stream are the village, pop. 660,
and (on a hill) the château of St. André. The château is a plain house
with a small chapel at the west end, fronted by a terrace built by the
brothers Thaon of Lantosque in 1685. Part is occupied by a school and
part is let. The chapel is now the parish church. At the east end is a
small petrifying spring. From the château an avenue of ill-conditioned
cypresses (the best have been cut down) leads to the Grotte St. André.
Fee, ½ fr. each. It is a natural tunnel, 114 ft. long and 25 ft. high,
through the limestone rock, under which flows the stream St. André,
dammed up at the outer end to enable the man to take visitors through it
in a boat. Near it are a restaurant and shop in which petrifactions are
sold.
From the “Grotte” up to the 8th kilomètre stone the ravine becomes so
narrow that there is barely room between the high cliffs for the road
and the stream. It is so picturesque that those who have come to visit
the cave should walk up this distance, 1 mile, before returning. Those
in carriages generally pass up this way and return by Falicon, a village
perched on the top of a steep hill above the river St. André.
_To the Observatory_, 1215 ft. above the sea, constructed in 1881 at the
expense of M. Bischoffsheim. Take the Abbatoir tram the length of the
Place Risso (see plan), where take the corner to the right and ascend by
the Corniche road. If on foot, on arriving at a well beside a house,
ascend the hill by the mule-path. The views are charming. The
establishment possesses 1235 acres of land. On the highest part are the
various buildings for astronomical purposes. A few yards below, on the
west side of the mountain, is a handsome building 228 ft. long and 46
broad. In the centre is the library, and the wing at each end
dwelling-houses.
[Headnote: LEVENS. LANTOSQUE. ST. MARTIN LANTOSQUE. COL DI FINESTRA.]
+Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque.+
(Map, page 165, and Map of Rhône and Savoy.)
_Nice to Cuneo by St. Martin Lantosque._--Diligence from Nice to St.
Martin, 37 m. N. From St. Martin to Entraque, on the north side of the
Col di Finestra, 8 hrs. by mule, considered equal to 25 m. From Entraque
to Cuneo by Valdieri and Dalmazzo, 24 m. N. by coach.
The diligence from Nice ascends by the west side of the river Paillon,
and after passing the villages of St. André (p. 179) and Tourette,
near the ruins of Châteauneuf, arrives at Levens, 1826 ft. above the
sea, pop. 1560, _Inn:_ H. des Étrangers, where the coach halts a short
time. After Levens it crosses the Col du Dragon, and then descends
into the prettiest part of the valley of the Vesubie, where it passes
through the village of Duranus, 18 m. from Nice, pop. 1500. Then,
after having traversed a tunnel 88 yds. long, crossed the Vesubie, and
passed by the hamlet of Le Suque (Suchet), 25 m. from Nice, it reaches
the village of Lantosque, 28½ m. from Nice, 1640 ft. above the sea,
pop. 1910, _Inn:_ H. des Alpes Maritimes. On a plateau 765 ft. above
Lantosque, and 1¼ m. distant, is La Bollène, with a large hotel,
charmingly situated amidst hills covered with chestnut trees. The
coach next halts at Roquebillère, pop. 1800, on the Vesubie, 3½ m.
from Lantosque, 32 from Nice, and 1968 ft. above the sea. It is the
station for the village of Belvédère, pop. 1250, with a comfortable
hotel on a plateau 755 ft. above Roquebillère. From Roquebillère the
coach proceeds up the valley of the Vesubie by the villages of
Berguerie, St. Bernard, and St. Sebastien, to +St. Martin Lantosque+,
37 m. from Nice, pop. 1956, and 3117 ft. above the sea. An ancient
village at the junction of the Vesubie with the Salèses. In the
“Place” where the diligence stops is a very good inn, the H. des
Alpes. Down in the town is the Belle-Vue pension, 6 frs. Up by the
side of the promenade are some good pensions. On the opposite hill,
½ hour walk from St. Martin, and 700 ft. higher, is the village of
Venanson, pop. 250, commanding splendid views of the surrounding
valleys. The lower parts of the mountains are covered with chestnut
and cherry trees, and the higher with large firs. From St. Martin
commences the bridle-path to Entraque, by the valley of the Vesubie
and the Col di Finestra, 8269 ft. above the sea, called thus from a
fancied resemblance of a cleft in the peak to a window. Mule and guide
to Entraque, 22 frs.; time, 8 hrs. 1¼ m. up the Vesubie is the stone
which marks the boundary between France and Italy, and 6¼ m. farther
the inn and the chapel of the Madonna di Finestra, 6234 ft. above the
sea. Many rare plants are found here, especially the remarkable
_Saxifraga florulenta_, on the ridges of rock above the sanctuary.
Half an hour beyond, a lake is passed among jagged peaks, and, in
about another ½ hour more, the summit of the pass, 8269 ft., is
attained, commanding an extensive view both towards Italy and France.
At Entraque there is an inn, and a coach daily to Cuneo.
[Headnote: VALDIERI.]
A mule-path from St. Martin extends to the Baths of Valdieri, about
20 m. distant, time 7 to 8 hrs., by the Salèses, which it follows all
the way to the Col de Moulières, 6890 ft. A few miles farther
northward it crosses also the Col di Fremamorta, a depression between
two mountains, 8745 ft. and 8964 ft. respectively above the sea. It
then descends by a long dreary road to the Val di Vallaso, where it
turns eastwards to the river Valletta and the Baths of Valdieri. From
the baths a carriage-road extends 24 m. N.E. to Cuneo, passing by the
village of Valdieri on the Gesso, 2493 ft. above the sea, 10 m. N.
from the baths, and 7½ m. S. from the next village, Roccavione, in the
picturesque valley of the Vermanagna. The coach then passes through
the Borgo San Dalmazzo, 5 m. from Cuneo, in a well-cultivated plain at
the junction of the Vermanagna with the Gesso.
A more direct but not such a good path separates from the Fremamorta
road at a small hamlet about 4 m. N. from St. Martin, whence it
ascends northwards by the Col de Cerise, 8500 ft., and then follows
the course of the Valletta to the baths. “The Baths of Valdieri make
excellent headquarters for exploring this part of the Western Alps. In
every village an inn of more or less humble pretensions is to be
found; and, though the first impressions may be very unfavourable, the
writer [Ed.] has usually obtained food and a bed such as a mountaineer
need not despise. Apart also from the advantage of being accessible at
seasons when travellers are shut out by climate from most other Alpine
districts, this offers special attractions to the naturalist. Within a
narrow range may be found a considerable number of very rare plants,
several of which are not known to exist elsewhere. The geology is also
interesting, and would probably repay further examination.
A crystalline axis is flanked on both sides by highly-inclined and
much-altered sedimentary rocks, which probably include the entire
series from the carboniferous to the cretaceous rocks, in some parts
overlaid by nummulitic deposits.” --_The Western Alps_, by John
Ball.
[Headnote: PUGET-THENIERS. SAINT SAUVEUR.]
_Nice to Puget-Theniers_, 42 m. N.W. by the Vallon du Var, which does
not become picturesque till Chaudan, 22 m. N. from Nice, at the
junction of the Tinée with the Var, where the horses are changed and
where the coach from St. Sauveur (18¼ m. N. from Chaudan) meets the
Puget coach. Puget-Theniers (Castrum de Pogeto de Thenariis, pop.
1450, 1476 ft. above the sea, _Inn:_ *Croix de Malte) is a dirty
village on the confluence of the Roudoule with the Var at the foot of
bare precipitous mountains. Coach daily from the inn to Guillaumes,
pop. 1300, on the Var, 22 m. N., _Inn:_ Ginié. The roads beyond are
traversed by mules. Coach also to Entrevaux, 3¾ m. W. from Puget.
The banks of the Tinée are more picturesque than those of the Var. On
the Tinée, 40½ m. N. from Nice, is +Saint Sauveur+, pop. 800, _Inn:_
Vial, with Romanesque church containing a statue of St. Paul, dating
from 1309. Hot and cold sulphurous springs issue from a granite rock
called the Guez. From St. Sauveur a good road extends northwards by
the Tinée to St. Etienne, where there is an inn. From St. Etienne,
pop. 150, a good mule-path leads by the Col Valonet to Vinadio (see
map, p. 165).
[Headnote: GIANDOLA. SAORGIO.]
+Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda.+
Nice to the village of Tenda, by coach, 51 m., 11 hours, 9 frs.; Tenda
to Cuneo, 29 m., 7 hours, 7 frs.; Cuneo to Turin, by rail, 3 hours
(see maps, pp. 165 and 107). This is rather a fatiguing journey. The
most beautiful views are seen during the descent from Tenda to the
Mediterranean. +Nice.+--Start from the Place St. François. The road
ascends the E. bank of the Paillon by the villages of
+Trinité-Victor+, pop. 1300, and +Drap+, pop. 800, with a sulphurous
spring called Eau de Lagarde. Beyond this it leaves the Paillon and
crosses over to +Escarène+ on the Braus, 12½ m. N.E. from Nice, pop.
1500. About 1½ m. farther is +Touet+, pop. 400, whence commences the
tedious ascent of the Col di Braus, 3300 ft, between the Tête Lavine
on the S. and Mt. Ventabren on the N. The road now descends to
+Sospel+, 1125 ft., pop. 3500, on the Bevera, an affluent of the Roja,
25½ m. N.E. from Nice. H. Carenio; coach daily to and from Menton,
14 m. S. The road now ascends the Col di Brouis, 2871 ft., whence
passengers in this direction have their last view of the
Mediterranean. The descent is now made through bleak and barren
mountains to +Giandola+, 39¼ m. N.E. from Nice, 1247 ft., at the base
of lofty frowning rocks. _Inns:_ Étrangers, Poste. Coach daily between
this and Ventimiglia. To the E., on the Roja, are Breglio, pop. 2580,
and the ruins of the castle of Trivella. The road now ascends a narrow
defile of the +Roja+, which, suddenly widening, discloses +Saorgio+,
pop. 1600, 400 ft. above the torrent, composed of parallel rows of
dingy houses among almond and olive trees. On the top of the hill is
the castle of Malemort, destroyed by the French in 1792. From this the
valley contracts so much that the road has repeatedly to cross and
re-cross the river on its way to Fontana on the Italian frontier,
43 m. from Nice, pop. 1230. Luggage and passports are examined here.
Almost the only habitat of the curious plant _Ballota spinosa_ is
between Fontana and Breglio. The road from this to St. Dalmazzo, 5 m.
N., passes through one of the most formidable defiles in the Alps, the
Gorge de Berghe, between steep massive walls of igneous rock. “The
bold forms of the cliffs, and the luxuriant vegetation which crowns
every height and fills every hollow, make the scenery of this road
worthy to compare with almost any other more famous Alpine pass.”
--_Ball_. At St. Dalmazzo is a hydropathic establishment, pension
8 frs. Coach daily between Ventimiglia and Tenda.
[Headnote: LIMONE. CUNEO.]
51 m. N.E. from Nice, 2 m. S. from the tunnel, and 12 m. S. from
Limone, is the village of +Tenda+, pop. 1800; _Inn:_ H. National; 2680
ft. above the sea, and 1516 ft. below the tunnel; situated on the Roja
at the base of a rock, on which are the picturesque ruins of the
castle of Beatrice di Tenda, executed on the 13th Sept. 1418 by her
jealous and tyrannical husband, Duke Fil. Maria Visconti. Many rare
plants are to be found on the rocks over the village. The village
church (1476-1518) is a good specimen of Lombardian architecture. The
tunnel, opened in 1882--4196 ft. above the sea at the Tenda end, and
4331 ft. at the Limone end--is 9844 ft. long and 23 ft. high. The
Tenda end of the tunnel is at the hamlet called La Punta, and the
Cuneo end at the hamlet La Panice. From La Panice the road descends
rapidly by the Vermanagna to +Limone+, 3668 ft., 63 m. N.E. from Nice
and 17 m. S. from Cuneo; _Inn:_ H. de la Poste; pleasantly situated in
the valley of the Vermanagna, from which an occasional glimpse may be
had of Monte Viso, 12,670 ft. The road, after passing Robillante,
Roccavione, and +Borgo-San-Dalmazzo+, pop. 4600, arrives at Cuneo,
80 m. N.E. from Nice, 1500 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ Barra
di Ferro, Albergo di Superga; situated at the confluence of the Stura
with the Gesso. 55 m. N. by rail is Turin.
[Headnote: MONDOVI.]
The easiest way to go to +Turin+ from +Nice+ is to take the rail to
Savona, whence rail to Turin, 91 m. N.W. by Carru, Bra, and
Cavallermaggioré. On this rail, 4 m. W. from Savona, is the Santuario
di Savona, a pilgrimage church with large hospice for poor devotees
(p. 210). From Carru station, 50 m. N., a branch line extends 8 m. S.
to +Mondovi+, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero. _Inns:_ Croce di Malta; Tré
Limoni d’Oro. From Mondovi is visited the Cave of Bossea, about 15 m.
S., in the valley of the Corsaglia. Each seat in the conveyance,
8 frs.; cave, 2½ frs. each, shown from June to October. 12 m. S.W.
from Mondovi, and about the same S.E. by coach from Cuneo, is the
+Certosa di Val Pésio+, formerly a monastery, founded in 1173, now a
hydropathic establishment, open from 1st June to 30th September.
Pension, 8 to 10 frs. It is well managed, and well situated for
botanists, fishers, and sketchers.
At the station S. Giuseppe di Cairo, 13 m. W. from Savona, is the
junction with line to Alessandria, 52 m. N., by Acqui, 31 m. N.,
traversing a picturesque country, between S. Giuseppe and Acqui, where
it passes down the beautiful valley of the Bormida.
[Headnote: ACQUI.]
+Acqui+, pop. 8000, on the Bormida, and 21 m. S. by rail from
Alessandria. _Hotels:_ Italia; Moro. The town is partly on and partly
round the Castello. On the other side of the river is the bathing
establishment, a large building with abundant accommodation. The
pension price per day is from 9 to 12 frs., including the use of the
water, which, besides being drank, is employed both in water and in
mud baths. The waters are sulphurous and alkaline, temp. 120°, and
were known to the Romans under the name of the Aquæ Statielæ, yet of
their times nothing exists but the ruins of an aqueduct. The mud-baths
of Acqui are remedies of considerable power. The patient remains
immersed for about half an hour in the humus or mineralised mud of a
temperature as hot as he can bear. Immediately after he receives a
warm mineral water bath. “The therapeutic influence of this
application is most evident in chronic articular enlargements,
rheumatic arthritis, some indolent tumours, intractable cases of
secondary syphilis, and rheumatism.” --Dr. Madden’s _Health
Resorts_.
[Headnote: VILLEFRANCHE.]
miles from MARSEILLES
miles to MENTON
{142½}{12½}
+VILLEFRANCHE+, pop. 3500. Approached by omnibuses from the Pont Vieux
at Nice, also by rail. Station at the head of the bay. _Hotel:_ Marine.
Pleasant boating excursions may be taken here to the peninsulas of St.
John and the Hospice. The climate of Villefranche resembles that of
Cimiès and Carabacel. 2 m. E. from Nice, at the head of a deep narrow
bay, 2 m. long, are the arsenal, fortress, and port of +Villefranche+,
founded in the 13th cent. by Charles II., King of Naples.
The bay is a favourite place of anchorage of the French squadron, as
well as of other ships of war and yachts. Boat from the mole to the
little pier on the peninsula of St. Jean, 1 fr. each person. From
Villefranche commences the splendid +Road to Monaco+, 8 m. long and 18
ft. wide, exclusive of the space for foot-passengers. This most
enjoyable carriage-drive skirts with the railway the base of the
precipitous cliffs which rise from the sea. 1 m. from Villefranche by
rail, or 1¾ by road, is
[Map: The Corniche Road: Nice to Menton]
[Headnote: BEAULIEU. PORT OF ST. JEAN.]
{143½}{11½}
+BEAULIEU+, famed for its large olive trees. A little above the station
is one of the oldest trees, and near it the H. des Anglais among
“countless terraces, where olives rise unchilled by autumn’s blast or
wintry skies.” Down towards the village is another old olive tree, not
far from a restaurant. Near the Church on the Monaco road is the
Restaurant Beau-Rivage, where a Bouillabaisse lunch can be had. In the
creek below are small boats for hire. Beaulieu is really a beautiful
place. It is situated in one of the most sheltered nooks of the Riviera,
at the foot of gigantic cliffs with patches of strata of reddish
sandstone. The edges of this grand precipice are fringed with trees,
which in the bright atmosphere look almost as if they were transparent;
while below, groves of stately olive trees cover the base and struggle
as far up as they can by the fissures in the rocks. Behind the olives,
and intermixed with them, are orchards of orange and lemon trees,
bending under the weight of their beautiful fruit. Trees and tall shrubs
hang over the edges of the abrupt banks, which enclose the tiny creeks
and bays bordered with diminutive sandy beaches, or with long ledges of
marble rocks, dipping gradually down into the deep-blue water, carpeted
in some places with the thin flat siliceous leaves of the Posidonia
Caulini, a Naiad not an alga, which covers the shore of the
Mediterranean, and of which great accumulations are seen thrown up at
various parts. It makes a poor manure, but prevents in some degree
evaporation.
A charming road, at some parts rather narrow for a carriage, leads from
Beaulieu round by the edge of the bay and east side of the peninsula to
the +Port of St. Jean+. The real carriage-road commences at the railway
bridge, goes round by the west side of the peninsula, and descends to
St. Jean, a little before reaching the chapel of St. Francis. The
continuation past the chapel, of the road, extends to the lighthouse,
passing the signal-tower to the right.
The port of St. Jean, _Inn:_ H. Victoria, is used principally by the
tunny fishing-boats from February to April. It makes a very pleasant
residence for artists and naturalists. It is situated among creeks and
bays, gardens, orchards, villas, and woods, in the most fertile part of
the peninsula. Beyond, on the highest point of the peninsula of St.
Hospice, is a round tower, the remains of the fortifications razed by
the Duke of Berwick in 1706. The more ancient crumbling masonry around
belonged to a stronghold of the Saracens, whence they were driven in the
10th cent. “A fir-clad mound amid the savage wild bears on its brow a
village, walled and isled in lone seclusion round its ancient tower. It
was a post of Saracens, whose fate made them the masters for long years
of lands remote and scattered o’er a hundred strands.” --_Guido and
Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne. Below, towards the point, are a
cemetery, a church, 11th cent., visited by Victor Emmanuel in 1821, and
a battery.
[Headnote: LIGHTHOUSE.]
At the south extremity of the peninsula of St. Jean is the lighthouse
(second-class), built in the 17th cent., but repaired, and the top story
added, in 1836. It is 98 ft. high, or 196 ft. above the sea, and is
ascended by 120 steps. The light is white and revolving, and is seen at
a distance of 20 m. The Antibes light is fixed, and is of the
first-class. By the east side of the lighthouse is the grave of Charles
Best, who died at Tenda, on the 30th day of July 1817, aged 38. The tomb
is hewn in the rock and arched over. His friends have laid him in a
grand place to await the call of the resurrection trumpet. Large
euphorbias and myrtles cover this stony part of the peninsula.
[Headnote: PETITE AFRIQUE. EZE.]
EZE.
The most picturesque part of the Monaco road is between Beaulieu and
Eze, the next station, 2 m. distant by road, but only 1½ by rail. The
steep flanks of the mountains between Beaulieu and Cape Roux are so
exposed to the sun, and so protected from the cold, that this region has
been called the Petite Afrique. Cape Roux itself, the abrupt termination
of a lofty ridge, looks as if it would topple over into the sea, to
which it is so close that both the rail and the road have to pass
through it by tunnels. On the eastern side of this cape is the equally
picturesque and sheltered bay, the Mer d’Eze, backed by a phalanx of
lofty stalwart cliffs and mountains. On the peak (1300 ft. high) of one
of this confused assemblage of lofty calcareous rocks is the nearly
deserted village of +Eze+, pop. 770, with the ruins of its castle
founded by the Saracens in 814, and its small church, recently restored,
built on the foundations of a temple of Isis, whence the name Eza or Eze
is said to be derived. From the floor of rock of the castle, under the
remains of a vaulted roof, a charming marine landscape displays itself,
while inland is seen the Pass or highest part (1750 ft.) of the Corniche
road, which here crosses the ridge terminated by Mt. Roux. At the Pass
are an inn and a few houses. The road up to Eze commences near the
station. In some parts it is steep, and much exposed to the sun, and
throughout very picturesque and stony, passing through plantations of
firs, olives, and carouba or locust trees. The ascent requires, doing it
leisurely, 75 minutes. From Eze a road ascends to the Corniche road, and
another descends to St. Laurent, on the road to Monaco. A little beyond
Eze is the station for La Turbie.
[Headnote: MONACO.]
100 min. from Cannes, 35 from Nice, and 44 from Menton, is
{149}{6}
+MONACO+ station, situated in La Condamine. At the station (6) an
omnibus awaits passengers for Monaco on the top of the S.W. promontory,
195 ft. above the sea. For Monte Carlo, on the top of the N.E.
promontory, alight at the next station, 1¼ m. N.E.
+Monaco proper+, pop. 1200. Hôtel de la Paix, 7½ frs., splendid view
from the square. Pharmacies under the direction of MM. Cruzel and
Muratore. Till the arrival of F. Blanc in 1860, Monaco was a poor place,
where the Prince and his subjects had to maintain themselves from the
produce of a few small vineyards and orchards scattered over patches of
scanty soil on the slopes of the mountains. But now that the
gambling-tables have brought a flood of gold into the principality,
wealth has taken the place of poverty, the palace has been furnished
anew, the humble Grimaldi church, 13th cent., thrown down, and in its
stead a majestic cathedral erected, the barns have been filled with
plenty, costly roads have been cut through the cliffs, the formerly arid
hills clothed with exuberant verdure, and beautiful villas have been
built in the midst of enchanting gardens, in places where, only a few
years ago, hardly enough of short wiry grass could grow to feed a goat.
The gambling establishment of Monaco was opened in 1856 by a company
with the sanction of Prince Charles III. The first house was in the
Place du Château; whence, after sundry changes, the company commenced to
build a house in 1858 on Monte Carlo. Becoming short of funds, they sold
their rights and property in 1860 to François Blanc.
[Headnote: THE PALACE.]
The Grimaldi family have been in possession of this small territory
since 968, when the Emperor Otto I. gave it to Grimaldi I., Lord of
Antibes and father of Giballin Grimaldi, who drove the Saracens from the
Grand-Fraxinet of St. Tropez (p. 145). The greatest length of the
principality, from the cemetery wall at the western extremity to the
brook St. Roman at the eastern, is (including curves) 3½ m., and the
greatest breadth, from Point St. Martin northwards, 1 m. Population
10,000, distributed among four different centres--the city, or Monaco
proper; the port, or La Condamine; Monte Carlo; and Les Moulins. They
are all united excepting the city, which, like an eagle’s nest, occupies
its own isolated rock, and is the one clean old town on the whole coast
of the Mediterranean, and, although about 200 ft. above the sea, is most
easily accessible by well-planned and gently-sloping roads. At the
landward or north end of the promontory is the palace, of which the
rooms in the upper floor on the west side are shown to the public on
certain days. The earliest parts, including the crenellated towers, date
from the commencement of the 13th cent., but the rest is much more
modern and of different dates. It is in the form of an oblong rectangle,
the south small side being occupied by the entrance and the north by the
chapel, sumptuously decorated with marble, gilding, and mosaics. Within
the entrance is the Cour d’Honneur, decorated on the east side with
friezes and designs in fresco by Caravaggio, retouched in 1865,
representing the triumphal procession of Bacchus. On the opposite side a
horse-shoe marble staircase, of 30 steps in each branch, leads up to an
arcaded corridor. Under the 12 inner arches are frescoes by Carloni,
representing the feats of Hercules. The rooms shown are to the left and
right of the entrance passage, at the north end of the corridor. To left
the first room is the usher’s room. The second is in blue satin;
hangings and furniture in style Louis XV.; some family portraits on the
walls. 3. Reception-room in red; handsome chimney-piece of one stone.
Bust and full-length portrait of Charles III., Prince of Monaco. Ceiling
painted in fresco by Horace Ferrari. 4. Room with brown hangings and
green furniture. On the walls are some indifferently executed pictures
representing the exploits of the Grimaldis. 5. Bedroom with red
furniture; style Louis XIII.
Rooms on right hand of passage. 1. Sitting-room of the Duke of York,
brother of George III.; red furniture and hangings; family portraits,
some very good, and frescoes by Annibale Carracci. 2. The bedroom in
which he died, 1760; the walls hung with rich embroidered scarlet satin;
ceiling painted in fresco by Ann. Carracci. Table in mosaic. Elegant
bedstead, shut off by a richly-gilt banister or low screen. 3.
Sitting-room in pale yellow; style Louis XV. 4. Bedroom. Furniture and
walls covered with white satin richly embroidered.
The door in the N.W. corner of the court gives access to a very pretty
garden, 130 ft. above the sea, full of palms, orange trees, and flowers.
Below, near the beach, is the kitchen garden.
At the southern part of the town is the cathedral, built with money
bequeathed by Blanc. It is placed from north to south, is 75 yards long,
and at the transepts 32 yards. In front, handsome terrace and good view.
Northward, in the Rue de Lorraine, is the Church des Penitents Noirs,
and a little way farther down the same street are the Église de la
Visitation, founded in 1663, its schools, and the Hôtel Dieu. Down on
the face of the southern cliffs is the domain of the washerwomen. They
spread their clothes to dry on the hot rocks, or over the prickly pear
plants, here very abundant. At this end is also the Jardin St. Martin,
a very pretty promenade, with charming views. 500 yards west from the
foot of the Monaco rock, on the splendid road to Villefranche, is the
cemetery, whose wall forms the western limit of the principality. Among
the many tombs there is a beautiful marble monument to Pierre and
Modestine Neri, brother and sister.
[Headnote: LA CONDAMINE. ST. DEVOTA.]
On the little plain between the promontories of Monaco and Monte Carlo
is +La Condamine+, whose handsome houses extend, where practicable,
a considerable way up the surrounding mountains. In the picturesque
gully, entered from beneath the railway viaduct, is the parish church,
on the spot where the body of Santa Devota, a Roman martyr, the
patroness of Monaco, was washed ashore. In 1070 Hugues, Prince of
Monaco, caused the nose and ears of Captain Antinopes to be cut off for
having stolen the relics of St. Devota. La Condamine contains the
harbour and the principal railway station, as well as the less expensive
hotels, such as the G. H. des Bains between the sea and the gas-works,
and the Bristol on the terrace. Within the town, the Condamine;
Étrangers; Angleterre; Beau-Séjour; Beau Site; France; Marseille; in
all, board and lodging from 8 to 10 frs. At the station the H. Nice and
Des Voyageurs. On the road up to Monte Carlo are the first-class hotels:
Princes; *Beau Rivage; *Monte Carlo, occupying the house the late Madame
Blanc built for herself. On Monte Carlo are the first-class houses: the
Paris; the *Grand Hotel; *Des Anglais; Russie; Londres; Colonies; still
higher up, the *Victoria in the principality, but on the confines of
France; in all, 15 to 20 frs. per day. Behind the Londres a narrow lane
leads up to the Corniche road by the village of Le Carniet. Those hotels
marked in this instance with an asterisk do not receive promiscuous
company. Abundance of excellent restaurants, cafés, and furnished rooms.
English chapel in France, above the Hôtel Victoria. Mean winter
temperature, 49°.3. _Cabs._--The course, within the principality, 1½
fr.; the hour, 3 frs. To Menton and back, 15 frs. The omnibus that runs
between Monte Carlo and Nice by the new road starts from the Casino (see
page 178).
[Headnote: MONTE CARLO.]
Monte Carlo is not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupt
termination of a ridge sloping upwards from Point Focinana to the
Corniche road and the Château Mountains, both a considerable way beyond
the territory of Monaco. On the face of Monte Carlo, or rather of
Focinana Point, is the Casino, a large and showy building, erected in
1862 by F. Blanc (d. 1877), a native of Avignon, and formerly the
proprietor of the Cursaal of Homburg. To the right of the entrance into
the Casino are the cloak-rooms, the ladies’ (dames) and gentlemen’s
(hommes) lavatories, and the reading-room. Fronting the entrance is the
concert-room--a superb rectangular hall profusely decorated with gilt
ornaments intermingled with paintings in fresco representing the Muses
and mythological subjects. It is furnished with 600 cushioned arm-chairs
covered with scarlet velvet. The stage, or the part occupied by the
orchestra, is less ornamented, and the colours are more subdued.
Directly opposite is a sumptuous gallery for the use of the prince and
his suite, entered from the large door at the west side of the Casino.
The orchestra consists of nearly 80 first-class musicians, of whom about
three-fourths play on stringed instruments. To the left of the entrance
are the gambling-rooms and the office where visitors give their names
and addresses before entering. In the first three rooms are the tables
for roulette, which is played with one zero, and at which the smallest
sum admitted is 5 frs., and the largest 6000 frs. or £240. The fourth
room, ornamented with panel paintings by Clairin and Boulanger,
representing young lady riders, croquet-players, fencers, fishers,
archers, mountaineers, shooters, and sailors, is devoted to
trente-et-quarante, at which the smallest sum admitted is 20 frs., and
the largest 12,000 frs. or £480. Only French coin and notes taken at the
tables.
Charming gardens and lawns with exquisite turf surround the Casino, and
under it, at the foot of the cliff, is a large pigeon-shooting gallery.
Entrance, 5 frs. Well-constructed carriage-drives and footpaths ramify
in all directions, up the hill to the Corniche road, and along the coast
either to Menton or to Nice by the magnificent coast-road to
Villefranche (see p. 184). The whole hill itself, or rather slope, is
studded, even beyond the boundaries of Monaco, with beautiful villas,
partially hidden among orange, lemon, and olive trees. On the eastern
side of Monte Carlo is +Les Moulins+, now quite a town, with shops,
hotels, restaurants, and furnished lodgings. Up on the main road is the
Hôtel de la Terrasse, 20 frs., dear. Down below on the coast-road,
fronting the sea, is a small house, the Hôtel du Parc.
[Headnote: GAMBLING-ROOMS. LES MOULINS. LEMONS.]
At the Casino it is not necessary to gamble, while those inclined to
that horrid vice will find more dangerous traps laid to catch them in
the clubs of the principal towns on the Riviera. In Monte Carlo no one
can gamble on credit. About a quarter of an hour eastward from Moulins
by the main road is the valley of St. Roman, with some very large olive
and locust trees. In the principality are also large groves of lemon
trees. They flower and bear fruit throughout the whole year. The lemons,
which ripen in spring, are called graneti, and those which ripen in
summer verdami. They are the juiciest, and as they keep longest, are the
most suitable for exportation. The best paper for wrapping them in is
that made from old tarry ropes. The manure preferred for the lemon and
olive trees is composed of the waste of horns, woollen rags, and refuse.
_Excursions._--1640 feet above Monaco is +La Turbie+, ascended by a road
containing 860 terraced steps, of which the best are 14 feet long by
9 feet wide, but a great many are smaller, and the most are in bad
condition. The ascent, walking leisurely, requires one hour. It
commences from the Rue de Turbie, the second street left from the
railway station. At Turbie, pop. 2400, there are three restaurants--the
France, Paris, and Ancre; the first is the most frequented. Bedrooms,
2 frs. Delicious lemonade, most grateful after a hot climb. When up at
La Turbie ascend by the tower of Augustus to the little knoll close by
and take a seat under the rock at the top, whence “From ancient
battlements the eye surveys a hundred lofty peaks and curving bays.” But
the one great view, which excels all the others, is from the
[Headnote: TÊTE DE CHIEN.]
+Tête de Chien.+
The road to it ramifies from the Corniche road at the west end of +La
Turbie+. Carriages drive all the way. As there is a Fort on the top,
permission must be procured from the captain to approach the brow of the
mighty projecting precipice, which by its position commands a splendid
uninterrupted view east and west, but spoils that from the other places.
From the Tête de Chien eastward are seen every mountain, town, village,
cape, creek, and bay the length of San Remo. On the western side the
view is much more extensive, reaching to St. Tropez and the Maure
mountains. The east side embraces Monaco, Monte Carlo, Les Moulins, Mt.
de la Justice, Mt. Gros, Roquebrune, Cape St. Martin, Menton,
Ventimiglia, Braja and Bordighera on the Cape San Ampeglio, which
conceals San Remo, but not the entrance into the bay. The western side
embraces Eze, Cape Roux, Beaulieu, the whole of the peninsula of St.
Jean, a piece of Villefranche, the greater part of Nice, Antibes, the
lighthouse and peninsula, the Lerins islands, the Esterel mountains, and
the Maures above Saint Tropez, which close the view. A good opera-glass
should be taken. A stony road leads down the west side of the Tête,
through a plantation of firs, to the Monaco road, which it joins near
the battery (see map, p. 185).
[Headnote: LA TURBIE.]
+La Turbie+, the ancient Trophræa Augusti station, on the Via Julia, is
a poor village, composed of narrow streets, old houses, and gateways
close to the massive Roman fort, which, after having stood nearly intact
for 1700 years, was reduced to its present dilapidated condition by a
prince of Monaco in the reign of Louis XIV. The village is supplied with
excellent water from a spring to the N.W. of Mt. Agel. To the west of
Turbie, at the Colonna del Ré, a road descends northwards to the
sanctuary of Notre Dame de Laguet, at the foot of Mt. Sembole, 13 m.
from Nice, but scarcely 2 from La Turbie.
The conical hill, rising over La Turbie, is Mt. la Bataille, and the
long ridge farther east, leading up to Mt. Agel, 3771 ft., are the
Château mountains. The view from none of these mountains equals that
from the Tête de Chien; moreover, the ascent is uninteresting, by stony
paths. Ascend by the first road east from Turbie, and when at the Turbie
reservoir turn to the left for the Montagne de la Bataille; but for the
Chateau mountains take the path to the right. This path leads round into
a narrow ascending valley, at the top of which is the summit of the
Château mountains, and the commencement of the peak of Mt. Agel, one
half-hour higher. The mountain immediately over Monte Carlo and Les
Moulins is La Justice, 911 ft., used as a quarry. On the top is a pillar
of rough stones, rudely plastered together. By the side of it are the
remains of a similar column. At the chapel of St Roch a road leads up to
the Corniche road (see map, page 185).
{150¼}{4¾}
+MONTE CARLO+ station. Alight here for the Casino, for the hotels on
Monte Carlo, and for Les Moulins and its hotels.
[Headnote: ROQUEBRUNE.]
{152½}{2½}
+ROQUEBRUNE+ station, where the Corniche road from La Turbie joins the
low road from Menton.
+Roquebrune+, pop. 1080, is 150 ft. above the station and the sea, among
great masses of brown conglomerate rocks. From the main road a series of
paved steps leads up to the village through a plantation of lemon trees.
The streets are steep and narrow, but the houses are better and more
comfortable than those of the villages similarly situated in the
neighbourhood of Menton, Bordighera, and San Remo. Near the terrace is a
small restaurant. On the summit of the hill are the ruins of the great
castle built by the Lascaris of Ventimiglia, who, in 1363, ceded it to
Charles Grimaldi. On a lintel on the eastern square tower is the almost
defaced sculpture representing a bishop’s mitre, with the armorial
bearings of the Grimaldis, and the date August 17, 1528. This bishop is
supposed to have been Augustine Grimaldi, councillor to Francis I. of
France, who repaired this castle in 1528. A broken staircase leads up to
the top. “No warrior’s tread is echoed by their halls, no warder’s
challenge on the silence falls. Around, the thrifty peasants ply their
toil, and pluck in orange groves the scented spoil from trees that have
for purple mountains made a vestment bright, of green and gold inlaid.”
--_Guido and Lita_, by the Marquis of Lorne.
[Headnote: MENTON. HOTELS.]
699 m. S.E. from Paris, 155 m. N.E. from Marseilles, 34½ m. N.E. from
Cannes, and 15½ m. N.E. from Nice, is
MENTON,
population 11,100, 16 miles S.W. from San Remo. _Hotels and
Pensions._--Commencing with those at the west end of the Promenade du
Midi, near the Gorbio, and going eastward through the town to the
Garavan. Those hotels with ² prefixed have a front to the sea and
esplanade, and another to the Avenue Victor Emmanuel II. The asterisk
signifies recommended. W signifies bottle of wine, and the price given
that of the cheapest quality. P signifies pension or boarding-house. At
the west end of the esplanade the ²H. du Pavilion; the H. St. George,
9-12 frs., W 1½ fr., by the side of the Borrigo; ²*P. Condamine; *H. et
P. Londres. These 4 houses charge from 9 to 12 frs., W from 1½ to 2 frs.
Near the Carrei and the Episcopal Church of St. John are the *H.
Splendide, 9-12 frs., W 1½ fr.; the Parc, 8-10 frs., W 1½ fr.; and the
²*Russie, 9-12 frs., W 1½ fr. Now cross the Carrei, on which is a very
sheltered promenade up the eastern bank. By the side of the Place (where
the band plays), built over the mouth of the torrent, is the ²*H. de
Paris, 10-14 frs., W 1½ fr. Same side, ²H. et P. d’Angleterre, 9-12 frs.
Opposite, the H. Camous, 9-12 frs.; and the Banque Bottini. Situated in
the busiest part of Menton are the *P. and H. Méditerranée, 9-12 frs., W
1½ fr. Next it the house agencies of Amaranté et Cie and Tonin-Amaranté;
and a little farther, the Menton Bank of Biovès et Cie. Opposite, the
²H. Westminster, ²H. Victoria, and ²*H. de Menton, all large good
houses, charging 9-15 frs. The H. Menton is patronised by Messrs. Cook.
Nearer the harbour, but with a front only to the sea, is the Midi, same
price. We now enter the eastern or most sheltered quarter, called the
Garavan. The hotels are large and first-class, and charge from 10 to 20
frs., and wine from 1½ to 2½ frs. The most westerly is the H. Italie,
and, about 100 feet up the bank behind, the principal house of the
hotel. A little farther east, on the same eminence, is the *Belle-Vue.
Near the Belle-Vue, and on the same level, is the Villa Helvetia, a
benevolent home for ladies not younger than 18 nor older than 40, who
are received for 20s. a week, which includes everything “except
laundress and fire in bedroom.” For conditions of admission apply to
Ransom, Bouverie, and Co., bankers, London; Mrs. Seton Karr, 30
Lancaster Gate, Hyde Park; or Miss Mackenzie, 16 Moray Place, Edinburgh.
Below, on the terrace along the beach, is Christ Church, and adjoining
is the Paix, a well-furnished house. Then follow the *H. des Anglais,
the H. et P. Santa Maria, *Beau Rivage, Grand Hotel, Beau Site,
Britannia. Queen Victoria spent the spring of 1882 in the Châlet des
Rosiers, about 200 yards from the H. des Anglais.
Inland, on the east side of the Carrei, in a warm nook, under the
shelter of a high hill, is a cluster of large and small hotels, just
behind the busiest part of the town. Of these the most prominent are the
first-class houses of the *H. des Iles Britanniques (expensive), *H.
National, *Orient, *Louvre, and Princes. Rather lower down are the
Ambassadeurs, Turin, Venise, Malte, Alpes, 9-15 frs., W 1-2 frs.; the
last five being less costly. Up the west side of the Carrei is the P.
des Orangers, pleasantly situated. On the road down from the station, on
the right or west bank of the Carrei, is the H. de l’Europe, 9-14 frs.,
W 2 frs. Almost adjoining is a second-class house, the H. and P. des
Deux-Mondes, 6-7 frs. The above prices include service, coffee in the
morning, and meat breakfast and dinner, but never wine, excepting the G.
H. de Menton, whose price includes wine but not coffee.
Menton has certainly some very sheltered nooks, but this only renders
the more exposed parts the more dangerous. The distinguishing feature of
the neighbourhood is the abundance of lemon trees in the small valleys
watered by mountain streams. The annual yield of the trees amounts to 30
million lemons, of which the minimum price is from 12 to 15 frs. the
thousand.
[Headnote: BANKERS. CHURCHES. CONVEYANCES.]
_Bankers._--Bank of France, Maison Palmaro. In the Av. Victor Emmanuel
are: Biovès et Cie, Credit Lyonnais, A. Bottini, and Credit de Nice.
In 17 R. St. Michel, the Palmaro Bank and the English Consulate.
_House Agents._--G. Amaranté and T. Amaranté, 12 and 19 Av. V.
Emmanuel; Willoughby, R. St. Michel. English doctors, chemists, and
grocers.
_Protestant Churches._--Christ Church, adjoining the H. de la Paix;
St. John’s, near the Pont Carrei; Presbyterian, above H. Italie;
Vaudois, R. du Castellar; German Church, R. Partouneaux.
_Cabs._--One-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 25 c.; the hour, 2¾ frs.
Two-horse cab--the course, 1 fr. 75 c.; the hour, 3 frs. 75 c.
A one-horse cab for the whole day costs 20 frs.; a two-horse cab, 25
frs. Donkey for the whole day, 5 frs.; gratuity, 1 fr. Boats, 2 frs.
the hour.
Menton is situated round a large bay, bounded on the west by Cape St.
Martin, and on the east by Mortola Point. This bay is divided into two
smaller bays by the hill, 130 ft. high, on which the old town is built.
The platform of the parish church, St. Michel, is reached by 95 steps in
8 divisions. All the streets about it are narrow, dirty, steep, and even
slippery. The new town stretches out a great way along the beach. The
public promenade (about 40 ft. wide) bends round the west bay from the
town to Cape St. Martin. A kind of gloom pervades Menton. The strip of
ground on which it stands is narrow, and so are the streets. Immediately
behind rise great mountains with dark gray limestone cliffs,
intermingled with deep green olive trees and stiff straggling pines. The
valleys are narrow and sombre. The roads up the mountains are steep,
badly paved, and are generally traversed on unwilling donkeys.
The pleasantest walks and drives are those along the coast, extending
from Cape St. Martin to the Italian frontier, to which there are two
roads, an upper and a lower. The former, the main road, crosses the
bridge of St. Louis, while the latter skirts the beach to the famous
bone-caverns. The _débris_ found in these caves, like the shell-banks in
the north of Scotland, consisted of the waste accumulation from the food
of the early inhabitants, together with the stone implements they had
employed. Four of the caves are above the railway, a little beyond the
viaduct under the Italian custom-house, and two are just below the line
close to the beach.
[Headnote: CAPE ST. MARTIN. GORBIO. ST. AGNÈS.]
+Cape St. Martin+, 2 m. W. Tram from Garavan to St. Martin, 50 c. The
tram stops at the N.E. corner of the cape. On the road northward from
the cape leading to Roquebrune is, right hand, a Roman sepulchre,
consisting of a centre arch with a smaller arch on each side, all that
remains of the Roman settlement Lumone, mentioned by Antoninus. From
this a straight road leads directly S. through a grove of large olive
trees to the signal-tower in the centre of the peninsula. Beside it are
the ruins of a nunnery, which was connected with the monastery of St.
Honorat (p. 158). Afterwards the road leading westward joins the
carriage-way, which sweeps round the peninsula. A stony path on the W.
side, parallel to the road, extends along the coast by the rocks and
cliffs (see map, p. 185).
+Gorbio+, 2½ hrs. or 5 m. N. up the valley of the Gorbio, and 1427 ft.
above the sea. Take the road E. from the Pont de l’Union, passing by the
entrance into the Villa (Palais) Carnolès, and, traversing groves of
lemon and olive trees. When about 1 hr. from the village the road
becomes steep, and pines take the place of lemon trees. Gorbio, pop.
500, occupies the summit of a hill rising from a valley formed by the
stream Gorbio and by one of its affluents. The streets are narrow,
steep, and roughly paved; the houses poor but substantial; and the
little church, built in 1683, is dedicated “Soli Deo.” At the upper end
of the village is a beautiful tulip tree. The path northward from the
tree leads to Mt. Gorbio, 2707 ft., and to Mt. Baudon, 7144 ft. The
rough stony road leading to the right or eastward from the tree ascends,
in less than 2 hrs., to St. Agnès. It is easily followed, and unfolds
lovely views. +St. Agnès+, pop. 580, is situated 2180 ft. above the sea,
or 330 ft. below the mountain peak, crowned with the ruins of the castle
built in the 10th cent. by Haroun, a bold Saracen chief. A narrow path
leads up to the top in 45 minutes, whence there is an extensive
prospect.
From the village descend to Menton by the path on the W. side of the
village, which, after innumerable windings, reaches the road by the side
of the Gorbio. On the way down it is difficult, among the network of
execrable paths, to follow the right one, which in descending is not of
much consequence, but in ascending adds immensely to the fatigue. If the
traveller should stray into the Vallon Castagnec or Primevères, the bed
of the stream should be followed as much as possible. One excursion
should be made of Gorbio and St. Agnès, commencing with Gorbio.
[Headnote: ANNONCIADE. CASTELLAR.]
Convent and Chapel of the +Annonciade+, 722 ft. above the sea, on the
ridge between the Carrei and the Borrigo. Walk up the right or west bank
of the Carrei to beyond the railway bridge, the length of the Hôtel
Beau-Séjour, whence the path commences. Opposite, on the other side of
the river, is seen the Hôtel des Iles Britanniques. The object of this
easy excursion is the charming view from the terrace in front of the
convent. The walls of the church are covered with votive offerings.
+Castellar+, 1280 ft. above the sea, 4 m. north, pop. 770. The road
commences from the narrow street, R. de la Caserne, a few yards W. from
the Place du Marché. Having passed a church, it enters on the broad
highway which skirts the flanks of the steep mountains, covered with
lemon and olive trees, rising from the left or east side of the stream
Menton. With a few interruptions the road is excellent all the way.
Castellar, on the plateau of St. Sebastian, surrounded by olive trees,
is a poor village, consisting of three narrow dirty parallel streets
lined with ugly dingy houses, and terminating at the N. end with the
parish church, rebuilt in 1867. Near the church are the crumbling ruins
of a castle of the Lascaris, descendants of the Byzantine Emperors. From
the terrace, where there are some beautiful elm trees, is a charming
view. Here also the village feast-day is held on the 20th of January.
From Castellar 2 to 3 hrs. are required for the ascent of the Berceau,
3640 ft. above the sea, commanding a magnificent prospect. Guide
advisable.
[Headnote: BENNET’S GARDEN.]
+Pont St. Louis, Bennet’s Garden+, Hamlets of +Grimaldi+ and
+Ciotti+.--At the east end of the Garavan is the boundary between France
and Italy, a narrow ravine with cliffs 215 ft. high, spanned by a bridge
of one arch 72 ft. wide. From this, on the first projecting point, are
an Italian custom-house station and the two entrances into the Bennet
Garden. The lower entrance is just before reaching the top of the point,
the other is by the path ascending from the point to Grimaldi. The upper
entrance is by the side of the square tower converted into a villa. The
garden on terraces is an oasis among cliffs, rocks, and stones, and is
chiefly remarkable for the number of English garden flowers in full
bloom in the middle of winter. The views from the walks are charming.
The continuation of the path, or rather stair, up the steep rocky hill
leads to Grimaldi, a few straggling cottages among olive and lemon
trees. After Grimaldi the path crosses the top of the ridge, and having
passed up by the E. or left side of the Vallon St. Louis, ascends the
hill, on the top of which is the hamlet of Ciotti (1090 ft.), consisting
of some 20 houses compactly grouped together. N.E. from Ciotti is Mt.
Belinda, 1837 ft.
[Headnote: LA MORTOLA. HANBURY GROUNDS.]
+La Mortola+, about 2 m. E. from Garavan. The Menton and Ventimiglia
omnibus passes through Mortola by the gate (200 ft. above the sea) of
the +Hanbury Grounds+, consisting of 99 acres, sloping down to the beach
by terraces. Large olive trees occupy the larger portion, while in the
more sheltered nooks are palms, orange and lemon trees. On a level with
the house, the Palazzo Orengo, 150 ft. below the entrance, is the
Pergola, a charming walk covered with trelliswork supported by massive
pillars, up which climb above 100 different species of creeping plants.
Queen Victoria visited the grounds on the 25th March 1882. An excellent
view of the house and grounds, as well as of Ventimiglia and Bordighera,
is had from the stone seat a little below the Mortola cross, on the
highest part of the road, a little to the W. of Mortola. For time and
conditions of admission into the Hanbury Grounds apply to the Palmaro
Bank, 17 R. St. Michel. The generous founder and father of the present
owner died a few years ago. Just beyond is the Piano di Latte, one of
the most favoured little valleys in the Riviera. Mortola is nearly an
hour’s drive from Bordighera.
[Headnote: LES MOULINS. MONTI.]
The most important drive towards the interior is to +Sospel+, 14 m. N.,
on the road between Nice and Cuneo by the Col di Tenda (see p. 182).
Excellent carriage-road all the way, ascending by the western or railway
station side of the Carrei. In the lower part of the valley are large
plantations of lemon trees. To the left of the road near the octroi are
Les Moulins olive-oil mills, with four stages of water-wheels. 4 m.
farther up the valley of the Carrei, on a eminence considerably above
the stream, are the church and straggling village of +Monti+. The
bridle-road that descends here to the Carrei crosses over to Castellar,
well seen on the opposite side. About a mile beyond Monti, opposite the
part of the road where it makes a sudden bend to the left, is seen a
small stone bridge on the other side of the Carrei. This bridge crosses
the stream that forms the cascade called the Gourg-d’Ora.
[Headnote: HERMIT’S GROTTO.]
About a hundred yards to the west of the bridge, on the face of an
almost vertical rock, and at a considerable height, is a kind of window
or cavity called the +Hermit’s Grotto+. Over the entrance is an
illegible inscription in red hieroglyphics. By the side is another
inscription giving the name of a hermit who once lived in this cave:--
CHRISTO LA FECE. BERNARDO L’ABITO.
1528.
(Christ made it. Bernard inhabits it.)
The inside of the grotto is composed of two rooms; the first, 6 yds. by
4½, is continued by steep staircases up into the mountain for about 27
yds. At this extremity a large cavity leads into a second room, 3 yds.
long, with a floor sloping in the opposite direction to the opening.
Into this cave the crusader Robert de Ferques is said to have retired
from grief.
[Map: Italian Riviera, &c]
At the time when King Philip Augustus had summoned all his nobility to
take part in the third crusade, a lord, named Robert de Ferques,
hastened to join the banner of the Count of Boulogne, his sovereign.
This Robert de Ferques had been recently married, and his young bride,
Jehanne de Leulinghem, unable to bear the thought of separation,
resolved to follow her lord and share his toils. She succeeded by
concealing her sex under a man’s dress, and set out with joy in the
capacity of esquire. Unhappily, during the journey she fell from her
horse, and was forced to stop at an inn.
Robert de Ferques was obliged, with broken heart, to follow the army,
and abandon his young wife to the care of a faithful servant. But in a
few days the old esquire came with tears in his eyes to announce to
his master the death of the courageous Jehanne. The poor knight was so
overwhelmed with grief that, with the consent of the Count of
Boulogne, he resolved to give up the world, and consecrate to God, in
the most austere solitude, a life which he had already almost
sacrificed to Him in war with the infidels. In 1528 he seems to have
been succeeded by the anchoret Bernard.
[Headnote: CASTELLON.]
The Sospel road now begins to ascend the Col de Guardia, pierced near
the top by a tunnel 260 ft. long, and shortly after it reaches the
walled town of Castellon or Castiglione, on an eminence 2926 ft above
the sea, commanding an extensive view, 8¼ m. from Menton, pop. 320.
5¾ m. farther is Sospel, pop. 3500 (p. 182).
[Headnote: CLIMATE.]
_Climate._--Menton being protected by an amphitheatre of high hills
from the northerly blasts, the winters here are generally milder.
“A cool but sunny atmosphere, so dry that a fog is never seen at any
period of the winter, whatever the weather, either on sea or on land,
must be bracing, invigorating, stimulating. Such, indeed, are the
leading characteristics of the climate of this region--the Undercliff
of western Europe. Such a climate is perfection for all who want
bracing, renovating--for the very young, the invalid middle-aged, and
the very old, in whom vitality, defective or flagging, requires
rousing and stimulating. The cool but pleasant temperature, the
stimulating influence of the sunshine, the general absence of rain or
of continued rain, the dryness of the air, render daily exercise out
of doors both possible and agreeable. I selected Menton as my winter
residence six years ago, because I was suffering from advanced
pulmonary consumption, and after six winters passed at Menton I am now
surrounded by a little tribe of cured or arrested consumption cases.
This curative result has only been attained, in every instance, by
rousing and improving the organic powers, and principally those of
nutrition. If a consumption patient can be improved in health, and
thus brought to eat and sleep well, thoroughly digesting and
assimilating food, the battle is half won; and helping the physician
to attain this end is the principal benefit of the winter climate of
the Riviera.” --Bennet’s _Winter Climates_.
“With all its vaunted security from biting winds, and its mountain
shelter from the northern blasts, Menton lies most invitingly open to
the south, south-east, and south-west, and winter winds from these
directions can be chilly enough at times. What tells so keenly upon
the weak and susceptible is the land breeze, which regularly at
sundown steals from the mountains towards the sea. The mean
temperature of November is 54°, December 40°, February 49°, March 53°.
When the air is still, a summer heat often prevails during the day,
though in the shade and within doors the mercury seldom rises above
60°.” --_Wintering at Menton_, by A. M. Brown.
For the Excursions, see maps pp. 163 and 185.
THE ITALIAN RIVIERA,
or
+Menton to Genoa.+
By VENTIMIGLIA, BORDIGHERA, SAN REMO, and SAVONA.
Distance 100½ miles. See accompanying Map.
miles from MENTON
miles to GENOA
{ }{100½}
+MENTON.+ The road from Menton to Genoa crosses the frontier at the
bridge of St. Louis, spanning a ravine 215 ft. deep.
6½ m. E. from Menton by the carriage-road, passing the village of
Mortola, and traversing the Piano di Latte, is
{6¾}{93¾}
+VENTIMIGLIA+, pop. 8500, on a hill at the mouth of the Roja. _Inns:_
near station, the Hôtel Suisse; in the low town, the Hôtel Tornaghi.
All the trains halt here ¾ of an hour, and luggage entering France or
Italy is examined. The new station is commodious. At one end of the
luggage-room is a clock with Paris time, and at the other one with the
time of Rome, 47 minutes in advance of Paris. The waiting-rooms, “Sale
d’Aspetto,” cloak-rooms, “Camerini di Toeletta,” and the refreshment
rooms are all at the French end, as well as the way out to the train.
The town is well seen from the station. The church occupies a prominent
position; and close to it, in the Via Lascaris, are the post office,
theatre, and the best café. The walk up this same Via to the town-gate
shows the best part of the town, while the avenues in continuation
beyond it lead up to the best sites for views. Not far from the station,
on the right bank of the Nervia,
on a large sandbank, are the remains of a theatre and of a cemetery,
which probably mark the site of the ancient Albintemelium. What
remains of the theatre is composed of large blocks of greenstone from
the quarries of Mortola. The excavations have been carried on under
the direction of the inspector of historic monuments in the province.
Omnibus between Ventimiglia and Bordighera. Diligence once daily
between Ventimiglia and Tenda, p. 183.
[Headnote: BORDIGHERA.]
{10}{90½}
+BORDIGHERA+, pop. 2800. The old town, the Bordighera di sopra, is
compactly built on the summit of the eminence rising from the cape
S. Ampeglio, whose sides are covered with olives and palms. Down below,
on almost a level with the sea, is the low or new town, where most of
the invalids reside, though it is doubtful if the site is well chosen.
_Hotels:_ the best is the ¹*H. Angleterre, a first-class house in a
garden, near the station.
Similarly situated is the ¹H. Bordighera. Both charge from 10 to 20
frs. Behind the Angleterre is the Episcopal chapel. West from the
Angleterre is ²*Beau Rivage, 6 to 10 frs. Immediately opposite station
are ²H. and P. Continental, 9 to 11 frs.; the ²H. and P. Sapia, 8 to
9 frs., and the Bordighera bank, where money can be changed. Eastward
are the hotels ²Victoria and ²Windsor. Admirably situated on an
eminence overlooking the Moreno palm-garden is the ¹*H. and P.
Belvédère, 8 to 12 frs. Near it is the ²*Pension Anglaise, 6 to 9 frs.
At the commencement of the Vallecrosia valley is a Home with
industrial school for orphans of poor Italian Protestants, founded by
an English lady. Omnibus between Bordighera and San Remo, passing
through Ospedaletti, a beautiful drive. Also omnibus every half-hour
between Bordighera and Ventimiglia. It passes through the low town of
Ventimiglia and stops at the commencement of the ascent to the high
town.
The great feature of Bordighera are its plantations of palms, whose
tufted tops wave above the more lowly lemon trees laden with pale
yellow fruit, while the whole of the background is crowded with
vigorous olive trees. Some of the palms are 800 years old. The lemon,
after the olive, is the most profitable tree.
To the _Tower of Mostaccini_, 1½ hr. there and back, by the Strada
Romana, till near Pozzoforte, where ascend by path right hand. This
tower, of Roman origin, and still in excellent preservation, served as
an “avisium” or watch-tower in the Middle Ages. From it is obtained a
delightful view of part of the coast.
[Headnote: ISOLA BUONA.]
2½ m. west from Bordighera is the commencement of the valley of the
Nervia, 16 m. long from north to south, with a varying breadth of 1½
to 2½ m. A good carriage-road extends all the way up to Pigna, 11 m.
from Bordighera. On this road, 1½ m. up the Nervia, or nearly 4 m.
from Bordighera, is Campo-Rosso, on the Nervia, at its junction with
the Cantarena, pop. about 250. It possesses two churches, both 12th
cent. St. Pierre has frescoes, 15th cent., on principal entrance and
on the sacristy, also some pictures attributed to Brea of Nice. The
confessionals are in the gallery. From Campo-Rosso a bridle-path leads
up to the top of the hill, on which is the chapel of Santa Croce,
commanding an extensive view. About 2 m. farther up the valley is
Dolce-Acqua, on both sides of the Nervia, crossed here by a stone
bridge with a span of 108 ft. Over the village, consisting of houses
crowded together and piled above each other, rises the imposing feudal
castle of the Dorias, reduced to its present dilapidated condition by
the Genoese in 1672. 2¼ m. from Dolce-Acqua, or 8½ m. from Bordighera,
is Isola Buona, pop. 1200, with paper and olive mills, heath pipe
manufactories, and cold sulphurous springs. From Isola, a little way
up the Merdanio or Merdunzo, is Apricale, pop. 1000. South from
Apricale is Perinaldo, the birthplace, 8th June 1625, of Giovanni
Domenico Cassini, the most famous of a family distinguished as
astronomers, who succeeded one another as directors of the observatory
at Paris for four generations.
[Headnote: PIGNA.]
A little more than 11 m. from Bordighera is +Pigna+, on the +Nervia+,
at the foot of Mont Torragio, 3610 ft. above the sea, a village where
the principal occupation is the cutting and sawing of the timber from
the surrounding forests. The church, built in 1450, has on the rose
window a representation of the descent of the Holy Ghost on the
apostles. The frescoes on the choir are nearly of the same date as the
church, and are attributed to Jean Ranavasio. In the wild and
picturesque ravine of the Nervia, above Pigna, is a copious sulphurous
spring, temp. 79° Fahr., utilised by a bathing establishment. Near
Pigna, on a hill covered with chestnut trees, is the village of
Castel-Vittorio or Franco. From Pigna a bridle-path leads, 4 m. N., to
Les Beuze, the last village in the valley of the Nervia.
The most pleasant of the drives is to San Remo, 6¾ m. N.E., by
Ospedaletti. About a mile from the E. side of Cape S. Ampeglio is the
hamlet of Ruota, with a small chapel containing a group in alabaster
representing the Annunciation. A short way farther a path descends
from the road to a house on the beach in a luxuriant garden of palm
and lemon trees. At the inner end of this orchard, near the railway,
is an excellent sulphurous spring, temp. 70° F. After this the
Corniche road bends round to Ospedaletti (see below). On the hills
behind Ospedaletti, about 2 m. N., is La Colla, 1000 ft. above the
sea. In the Town Hall is a valuable collection of 120 paintings,
mostly by great Italian masters, such as Frà Bartolomeo, I. Bassano,
F. Barocci, A. Carracci, Caravaggio, Cortona, C. Dolci, Domenichino,
Sasso Ferrati, Reni, Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, and Spagnoletti.
In another room is the library. The pictures and books were collected
by the Abbé Paolo Rambaldi during his long stay at Florence, who at
his death (1864) bequeathed them to this his native city. In the
sacristy of the parish church is a beautifully-carved ivory crucifix,
bequeathed, along with some other articles, by the Prelate Stefano
Rossi, also a native of this quarter. A coach with 2 horses from
Bordighera to La Colla and back costs 20 frs.
[Headnote: LA COLLA.]
La Colla is the native town of the sea-captain Bresca, who, contrary
to the orders of Pope Sixtus V., broke the silence by calling aloud to
“wet the ropes” when the obelisk was being raised in front of St.
Peter’s. 2 m. E. from La Colla is San Remo, which is 3 m. from
Ospedaletti.
The climate of Bordighera is similar to that of San Remo; but as a
residence it is more rural and has fewer resources. The mistral at
Bordighera, instead of being a north-westerly wind, deviates by the
configuration of the coast into a west wind.
Bordighera supplies Rome with palm-leaves for the Easter ceremonies,
as also the Israelites in Germany and Holland for the feast of
Tabernacles.
[Headnote: OSPEDALETTI.]
miles from MENTON
miles to GENOA
{13½}{87}
+OSPEDALETTI+, pop. 1000, a small village with nearly a mile of frontage
towards the sea, from which it is separated by the railway. In the
village is the ²H. and P. Ospedaletti, room 40 frs. the month. Upon an
eminence with garden is the ¹H. de la Reine, 12 to 20 frs. Adjoining is
a handsome Casino, in which there is dancing even during the day. The
gambling is private, and on a small scale.
[Headnote: SAN REMO. HOTELS.]
{16½}{84}
+SAN REMO+, 16¼ m. E. from Menton by the coach-road, pop. in winter
18,000. As Italy is entered it will be observed that the women, the
maidens and their mothers, are the hewers of wood and drawers of water,
and that to their lot falls the menial work of the most laborious
trades.
_Hotels._--Those with the figure ¹ are first-class houses, with ²
second-class. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of
their class. Commencing at the railway station and going eastward by the
principal street, the Via Vittorio Emanuele, we have the ¹G. H. de la
Paix, close to the station and fronting the public garden.
Then follow the ²H. and P. Nationale, 7 to 8 frs.; the ¹*H. San Remo;
the ²P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate
Bank; the Vicario Store; the ²P. Molinari, and the ²H. Bretagne,
frequented principally by commercial travellers. Behind Squire’s is
the Episcopal Chapel, and a little farther west, left hand, the Post
Office.
On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio
Emanuele, are the ¹H. Nice and the ¹*H. Angleterre. Near the
Angleterre are the Pensions ²*Allemagne; ²Rossi; and ²Lindenhof; and
the Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five shillings
the week; which, as at the similar institution at Menton, includes
doctors’ fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except
washing and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts
& Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London.
At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one
front to the sea and the other to the road--the ¹H. Méditerranée and
the ¹*H. Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the Via V. Emanuele, are
the ²*Beau-Séjour with garden, and the H. Bains.
At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences
in gardens. Taking them in the order from E. to W. we have the ²P.
Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the ²P. Tatlock (German);
¹*Hôtel Royal; ¹*Belle-Vue; ¹Paradis; ¹*Londres; ¹Pavillon (moderate);
¹Anglais; ¹Palmieri; and the ¹*West-End, the most important hotel on
this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the
pleasant walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-class hotels the
pension is from 9 to 18 frs., in the “pensions” from 7 to 11 frs.
Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo
and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and
Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6½ m. N. (see map, p. 165).
_Cab Fares._--The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. during the day, and 1½ fr.
night. Per hour, 2 frs.; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1½ fr.
during the day, and 2½ frs. at night. The hour, 3 frs.; at night,
4 frs.
[Headnote: CLIMATE. DRIVES.]
Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot of
these hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via
Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants,
booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. “The mean
temperature is 49°.1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet’s
estimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison of
the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennet
for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly
3° more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the
protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter
from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast
olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into
healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and
removing sensations of lassitude often experienced in too well-protected
spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable
choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying
distances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; while
the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers,
provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions.” --Williams’ _Winter
Stations_.
San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as at
Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on terraces
built up with low stone walls without plaster.
[Headnote: POGGIO.]
The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San
Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the
Hôtel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part where
the road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take the
latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the
“Strada Consortile de San Remo à Ceriana.” This road ascends through
olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road to
the Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory,
while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on
the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. Poggio, one of the many
wretchedly poor villages, has two churches. The road, which has ascended
all the way from San Remo to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the
Ceriana valley to Ceriana. _Inn:_ H. Etoile d’Italie, 6½ m. from San
Remo, commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the
profusion of wild flowers, form the principal attraction of the
excursion. Cab with 1 horse to +Ceriana+ and back, 14 frs.; 2 horses, 20
frs., with ½ hr. rest. The Madonna road from Poggio is nearly level. The
chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of Cape San
Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the coast, Arma,
Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the hills behind
them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is Poggio. To the
west are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 horse to the
chapel and back, 7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs., with ½ hr. rest (see maps,
pp. 163 and 199).
A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La Colla,
on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the sea,
and 2 m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2
horses, 12 frs., with ½ hr. repose. See page 199.
[Headnote: MADONNA DELLA GUARDIA. SAN ROMOLO.]
+St. Romolo to Monte Bignone.+
One of the most frequented excursions is to San Romolo, 1700 ft. above
the sea, and 4 m. northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the
Place St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5 frs. San Romolo consists of
some villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was
inhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from
it the ascent is made of the Piano del Ré, a ridge 3500 ft. above the
sea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the ridge,
descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the left, and
make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path ascends
to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or about
half that time from San Romolo. “In making the ascent of Monte Bignone,
it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who are
strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite
practicable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat
trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is
exceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost
every turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, with
amongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others it
runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious and
rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, after
an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the
broad sloping and grassy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue the
ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained,
and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable lies
stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of more
than a hundred and fifty miles, astonishing and enchanting the beholder.
To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and in the far
distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte Rotondo;
on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the western half of
the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero surmounted by Colla,
and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther away, the mountains
of the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast successively the
various capes and promontories as far as Cap d’Antibes and even the
Esterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with on the
farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di Lampeduza, and
Pompeiana and Riva on the seashore; while far away to the east are the
mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di Levante, with the
Apennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a broad and deep
valley, having on the other side a range of mountains still loftier than
the one on which we are standing, and above these again, the snow-capped
Alps stretching away in the one direction towards the Esterels, and in
the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into the valley below, on a
narrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is seen the town of
Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, Apricale; both of a
singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the tiled roofs only of the
houses are seen from this great altitude. There is a pathway leading
down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where accommodation at a small but
clean inn may be had for the night; whence the return home can then be
made by the Nervia valley and Bordighera, altogether a most beautiful
and varied excursion. (For the valley of the Nervia, see p. 201, and
map, p. 165.)
[Headnote: VIEW FROM MONTE BIGNONE.]
“It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of the
splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must be
seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in
Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with
ordinary precautions, and is within the compass of any person of fair
health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare
and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a
lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue
Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L., a pink variety of which is sometimes met
with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens Canis L. with its
trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the Primrose, Primula
acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit of the mountain the Cowslip,
Primula veris; two species of Gentian, Gentiana verna and G. acaulis L.;
Ophrys fusca Link, also a species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.;
Saxifraga cuneifolia; Sempervivum arachnoideum L.; and lastly, in shady
dells, Daphne laureola L. With two or three exceptions, these flowers
were found in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some
weeks previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many
plants of Helleborus fœtidus L., as also for the first time in flower
the large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L.; this is the species
so commonly found above the region of the olive trees.” --_San Remo and
the Western Riviera_, by Dr. Hassall.
+San Remo to Taggia+, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, 12
frs., with ½ hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or from
San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey from
Taggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs.
The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d’Italia,
formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or
Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From
the east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of
Castellar, whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the
Madonna di Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The
Taggia road ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of
Badalucco.
[Headnote: TAGGIA.]
miles from MENTON
miles to GENOA
{21½}{79}
+TAGGIA+, pop. 5000, on the Giabonte, 3 m. from the station. An omnibus
awaits passengers (½ fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d’Italia, at
the termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to
Castellar, situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and
about ½ hour’s walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the
gaudy sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty
town, with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair
churches. At No. 1 Via Soleri--the principal street in the town--is the
habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering
the town, after having passed through the archway, take the street to
the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the
beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the
ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. farther east by rail is San
Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like that
of San Remo.
[Headnote: PORTO MAURIZIO. ONEGLIA.]
{31}{69½}
+PORTO MAURIZIO+, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ France; Commerce.
Porto Oneglia, pop. 8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small
bay. The most important part of San Maurizio is the high town,
containing the principal church, of which the porch consists of a double
row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior
represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this
coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly
finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided
into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on massive piers with
attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are
covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the
edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly
hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows
and doorways. A good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade,
connects Porto Maurizio with +Oneglia+, about a mile distant,
beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace
of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After passing through a long tunnel we
reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Piètro is
covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence
overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full
of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way
to
[Headnote: ALASSIO. ALBENGA.]
+Alassio+, pop. 5000, a new winter station, 44½ m. east from Menton, and
56 m. west from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by a
high wall, with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. _Hotels:_ H. et
P. Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9 frs. On the beach at the E. end, the
*G. H. Alassio, 8 to 9 frs. On the beach at the W. end, the H.
Méditerranée, 6 to 8 frs. Near the station, the Episcopal chapel.
Alassio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from some
of the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the chain of
the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways extend up the
hills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano and Ceriale, or
up the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns are many large
carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. Between Alassio and
the next station, Albenga, is the small island of Gallinaria, with a
castle on the summit of the hill.
+Albenga+ is 4 m. N. from Alassio, on the Caprianna, and at a little
distance from the coast. _Hotels:_ Hotel d’Albenga; Italia; Vittoria.
Their omnibuses await passengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the
birthplace of the Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a
broad valley watered by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous
trees, and here and there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees
trained as espaliers. A good carriage-road extends up the valley of the
Nerva and across the Col di S. Bernardo, then by the town of Garessio
and the valley of the Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin.
After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the beach
at the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the Isola,
pop. 1000, a sheltered town, with abundance of palms, orange, and lemon
trees, principally at the eastern end, round the cape.
[Headnote: FINALMARINA. NOLI.]
{59½}{41}
+FINALMARINA+, pop. 3500. _Hotel:_ Garibaldi. The church of St. John the
Baptist, after the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marbles
of various hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes,
presenting a grand combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the
church S. Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The
pulpit and altar display most delicate workmanship. There is a great
deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in the
valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th
cent.), and to the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. Five miles N.
from Finalmarina is +Noli+, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ Albergo del Sole, at the
commencement of the arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town,
formerly a republic under the protection of Genoa, is still partially
surrounded by walls garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced
from E. to W. by narrow parallel streets, the best being the Via
Emanuele II., which commences at the beach on E. side by the
clock-tower, near the inn, and traverses the town to the W. side by the
new church. The continuation, outside the town, the Via Monasterio,
leads up to the mountains covered with vines, olives, and maritime
pines. On the top of the hill are the ruins of Noli castle, with walls
garnished with circular towers. The old church, 11th cent., is near the
station. Fishing is the chief industry. A beautiful road, 2 m. N. by the
coast, leads to Spotorno.
[Headnote: SAVONA.]
{74}{26½}
+SAVONA+, pop. 17,000. _Hotels:_ Suisse, a large house in the Piazza di
Teatro; *Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse.
In the ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited his
spoils after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is now
modern, consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broad
streets lined with massive arcades, and substantial houses built in
enormous square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, the
Rupe di S. Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied
by the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends are
small harbours with shallow water. The +Cathedral+, built in 1604, is,
in the interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different
shades of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of
gilding. The two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at the
western end, are by V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest
the altar, is a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in the
Sistina chapel, is the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle
of Julius II. In the church of San Domenico there is in the first
chapel, left on entering, a “Nativity” by A. Semini. The figure of the
Virgin appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the
others are admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church
is an “Adoration of the Magi” by Albert Durer, in the form of a
triptych. In a small church, called the Capella di Christo, over the
altar within a niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800
years old. In the sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to
500 years old. The Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus
IV., and Julius II., were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona.
4 m. from Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora di
Misericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered with
precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the
intimate friend of Tasso. At Savona junction with line to Turin, 91 m.
northwards (see p. 183).
[Headnote: ALBISSÓLA.]
{77}{23½}
+ALBISSÓLA+, pop. 2000, on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile from
the Port or Marina. 4½ m. farther eastwards by rail is +Varazze+, pop.
10,000, a pleasant town at the head of a large bay. A little
shipbuilding is carried on here. Beautiful palm, lemon, and orange
groves. This is the birthplace of Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the
_Golden Legend_, the reading of which was the principal means of
transforming Ignacio Loyola from an intrepid soldier into a zealous
missionary. Between Varazze, 64 m. N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano,
6¼ m. N.E. from Varazze, is another favoured part of the Riviera,
sheltered by a ridge of most picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso
(1319 ft.) is the culminating point. The road here passes through firs,
umbrella pines, carouba trees, cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees,
and some fine shrubs of _Phillyrea angustifolia_, with here and there
just enough olive trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildness
of the climate. About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the
village of Inoria.
[Map: Genoa and Savona to Sestri-Levante]
[Headnote: COGOLETO. COLUMBUS.]
miles from MENTON
miles to GENOA
{85}{15½}
+COGOLETO+, pop. 1000. From the station walk down to the town; and on
reaching the main street, the Via Cristoforo Colombo, turn to the left.
In the second division, right hand, at No. 22, is the house of Columbus,
with the following inscription:--
_Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hic lux prima Columbo;_
_Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus!_
_Unus erat mundus. Duo sunt, ait iste. Fuere._
It consists of three stories, with one side fronting the sea, and the
other the main street. The rooms are small, and with arched roofs. That
in which Columbus was born (1435) is on the first story. Fronting the
adjoining room is a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, where
it is possible the boy Columbus learned to conceive the idea of a
continent beyond the Atlantic by having been accustomed to gaze on this
sea at his feet, with the knowledge that beyond it there lay the vast
continent of Africa. Although his parents were in humble circumstances,
they were descended from a family belonging to the most illustrious
nobility of Piacenza, who had lost their estates during the wars of
Lombardy. Boatbuilding and fishing are the principal industries of
Cogoleto. Map, p. 220.
[Headnote: ARENZANO.]
{87¼}{13¼}
+ARENZANO+, pop. 5000. *H. Arenzano, 7 to 8 frs., near station. One of
the cleanest towns on the Riviera, pleasantly situated in a picturesque
country and commanding extensive views of the coast. The road between
Arenzano and Cogoleto passes by Monte Grosso.
{91¾}{8¾}
+VOLTRI+, and the next town, Pra, may be called one. Paper-making and
shipbuilding are the principal industries. Map, p. 220.
[Headnote: PEGLI.]
{95}{5½}
+PEGLI+, pop. 1000. _A winter station._ The largest hotel is the
*H. Pegli et de la Méditerranée, with one side to the sea and the other
to the public garden and English chapel. Pension in winter, 9½ to 15
frs. On the beach the H. Gargini, second class. Pegli is a quiet little
village, prettily situated on the sea, and among hills. It has constant
communication by tram and rail with Genoa, and is visited on account of
the grounds around the +Villa Pallavicini+, ornamented with statues of
Roman divinities, temples, triumphal arches, huts, and an obelisk. But
the remarkable object is the artificial cave, covered with large
stalactites, in the midst of a lake 5 feet deep, surrounded by evergreen
shrubs and trees so arranged as to produce wonderfully pretty vistas. At
one part the edge of the lake seems to join the sea, although many miles
distant. All this has been created on the formerly sterile side of a
hill, where almost nothing would grow from the want of water and of
soil. Water was brought from a great distance, and caused to tumble down
the mountain in cascades into the lake, which had to be lined with
porcelain to retain it. The cave was then built of brick, and covered
with consummate art with stalactites, as in nature. The visitor is rowed
in a boat about this most curious piece of land and water. In other
parts there are a multitude of surprises, in unexpected jets of water,
and in beautiful peeps of scenery no larger than a picture. Attendant,
1 fr.; for party, 2 frs.
[Headnote: SESTRI-PONENTE. CORNIGLIANO.]
1¾ m. E. from Pegli and 3¾ W. from Genoa is +Sestri-Ponente+, pop.
10,800. _Hotel:_ *G. H. Sestri, 8 to 12 frs., with commodious bathing
establishment at the foot of the garden. The beach, composed of small
pebbles, has a rapid slope. Good sea water can be brought to bedroom
every morning. The station is near the hotel, and the trams pass by the
gate. The interior of the parish church is superbly gilt and covered
with frescoes. Just under the wide spanned roof are painted statues of
the patriarchs and prophets. Sestri makes a better winter station than
the next town, +Cornigliano+, *H. Rachel, 9 to 12 frs., with sheltered
garden, 2½ m. W. from Genoa. Both of these towns are considered from 4°
to 5° colder than Menton. The tram passes the garden gate of both
hotels. After Cornigliano the tram and train traverse the populous
suburb of Sampierdarena and arrive at Genoa. The principal railway
station is at the W. end of Genoa. The Piazza Annunziata is the terminus
of the Pegli, Sestri, and Cornigliano trams.
[Headnote: GENOA.]
{100½}{ }
+GENOA+, pop. 145,000. The hotels most conveniently situated for
visitors are the G. H. de Gènes, 9 to 15 frs., in the Piazza de Ferrari,
opposite the theatre and the post office; the *G. H. Isotta, 10 to 15
frs., No. 7 Via di Roma, parallel to the glass arcade, and also near the
post; the *Londres, 9 to 10 frs., near the station; the Victoria, in the
Piazza Annunziata, and the H. Étrangers, No. 1 Via Nuovissima. The above
are in a line with the palaces, and cost 8 to 10 frs. Down in the port
in the Via Carlo Alberto, and most conveniently situated for those who
have to embark, are--taking them in the order from W. to E.--the Croix
de Malte, the H. de la Ville, the H. Smith, the *H. Trombetta, and the
*France. They charge from 8 to 14 frs. By the side of the last two
hotels is the Bourse, and in the neighbourhood of the Bourse are the
best money-changers.
For +Genoa to Turin+, see p. 279.
Anglican church in the Via Goito, a small street leading northwards from
the Acqua Sola Promenade. In the same neighbourhood is the broad street
Via Assarotti, with at No. 37 the Valdensian and Presbyterian churches.
Shops for filigree work in gold and silver in the Via degli Orefici by
the side of the Bourse, and at the foot of the Sestiere della Maddalena,
which descends from the Piazza delle Fontane Morose. At No. 17 of that
Piazza is a good shop for coral ornaments.
[Headnote: CAFÉS. CABS. STEAMERS.]
_Cafés._-- *Café Roma, by the Teatro Carlo Felice; *Stabilimento delle
Nazioni, Via Roma; *Concordia, Via Garibaldi. +The principal sights+ are
the church of the Annunziata, p. 212; the Cemetery approached by the
Staglieno omnibus from the Piazza de Ferrari; the Palaces between the
railway station and the Piazza Nuova. The church of Santa Maria in
Carignano, approached by the Carignano omnibus from the Piazza de
Ferrari, passing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 138 ft. above the sea
(p. 218). North from the Acqua Sola is the Villa Negro, containing the
Museum of Natural History. The best of the drives is along the Via di
Circonvallazione.
Florio-Rubattino have steamers to Bastia (Corsica), Cagliari,
Civita-Vecchia, Leghorn, and Porto Torres, in the north of Sicily.
Peirano, Danovaro, and Co. have steamers to Ancona, Brindisi, Catania,
Gallipoli, Leghorn, Messina, Naples, and Triest. For the English
steamers between Liverpool, London, and the ports of the Mediterranean,
apply to Lertora Fratelli, No. 2 Via S. Lorenzo.
1-horse cabs--the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1½ fr.; every successive ½
hour, 80 c. 2-horse cabs--the course, 1½ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.; every
successive ½ hour, 1 fr. Boats to and from the steamers, 1 fr. each.
Rail from Genoa to Turin, 104 m. N.W. (p. 279).
Post Office in the Galleria Mazzini. Telegraph Office in the Palazzo
Ducale. Best money-changers near and around the Bourse.
Genoa is singularly constructed around a small bay on shelving ground,
rising rapidly from the water’s edge to the height of from 500 to 600
feet. The old part of the town is a labyrinth of crooked streets from 6
to 12 feet wide, and frequently so steep that steps have to be cut in
them. The most remarkable of the new streets is the Via di
Circonvallazione, composed of a series of lofty terraced “corsos”
skirting the face of the hills, commencing at the E. end from the Piazza
Manin, 330 ft. above the sea, and extending westward in a zigzag form to
the railway station by the Albergo dei Poveri. They are reached from the
upper ends of the Vias Palestro, Mameli, Caffaro, and Brignone di
Ferrari, by ramps and long stairs. The palaces, another feature of
Genoa, are large gaunt mansions, all similar in style--gates 40 feet
high, with marble columns--courts paved with various coloured
marbles--broad staircases, all of marble--rooms 30 feet high with arched
ceilings, and adorned with gilded columns, large mirrors, crystal
lustres, and mosaic floors; the roofs panelled, and the panels divided
by sculptured figures, and filled with finely executed paintings in oil.
The best churches and palaces are in the streets extending in a
continuous and slightly curved line from the railway station, at the
west end, to the Piazza de Ferrari at the eastern end of Genoa.
[Headnote: PALACES. PALAZZO DORIA.]
The visiting of the palaces is rather fatiguing, as the best works of
art are preserved in the upper stories, reached by splendid but lofty
staircases. The best two are close to each other, the Palazzo Durazzo
Pallavicini, No. 1 Via Balbi, and the Palazzo Rosso, No. 18 Via
Garibaldi. They contain specimens of everything for which the palaces
are remarkable. A fee of 1 fr. is sufficient to leave with the keeper of
the gallery. Most of the palaces have each of the rooms provided with a
list of the pictures and frescoes it contains printed on a card, which
makes the visitor quite independent of the servants and guides.
As there are so many places to visit between the railway station and the
cathedral, the best plan is to do that portion on foot, and after having
visited the cathedral, to take a cab from the stand at the foot of the
Via S. Lorenzo, and drive by the Via Vittorio Emanuele, round by the
ramparts, and up the Via Rivoli to the church of Sta. Maria di
Carignano.
The only palace west from the station is the Palazzo Doria,
reconstructed by Montorsoli, 1525, and decorated and embellished by
Perino del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael’s, and a contributor to the
paintings in the Vatican. Perino’s best works here are Jupiter defeating
the Giants, in the principal hall, and the Triumph of Scipio, at the
entrance. In the centre of the garden is a fountain representing Andrea
Doria as Neptune, with his Sea-horses, by P. Carlone. In the garden, on
the other side of the railway, are a colossal statue of Hercules,
erected by Doria, and a monument to the memory of his dog Rolando, given
him by the Emperor Charles, who conferred upon him the title of “Il
Principe.” The tomb of Andrea Doria is in the church of San Matteo, and
over the altar the sword presented to him by Paul III.
[Map: Genoa]
[Headnote: VIA MILANO.]
Adjoining the Doria palace is the +Via Milano+, a terraced promenade
lining the western side of the harbour, as the less beautiful but more
costly terrace by the Via Carlo Alberto lines the eastern front. Walking
_eastward from the station_ the first large building is the Royal
Palace, No. 10 Via Balbi. This palace, formerly the property of the
Durazzo family, was erected after the plans of P. F. Cantone and J. A.
Falcone, while the staircases and terraces, which have been so greatly
admired, were by the Chevalier Charles Fontane. The accommodation is
extensive, but the rooms are small, excepting the principal reception
hall, the theatre, and the library. The pictures are indifferent.
The Balbi Palace, No. 4 Via Balbi, built after the plans of B. Bianco,
and improved by P. A. Corradi, contains a large collection of
paintings--among others a Lucrecia, Cleopatra, and a St. Jerome, by
Guido; St. Jerome, a Virgin, and Jesus scourged, by Tizziano; a St.
George and St. Catherine; and the Infant Jesus, by Correggio.
[Headnote: P. DURAZZO PALLAVICINI.]
No. 1 Via Balbi is the +P. Durazzo Pallavicini+, one of the most
important to visit. The architect was B. Bianco, but the vestibule and
staircases (considered the finest in Genoa) are by A. Tagliafico. The
paintings are almost entirely by Italian masters, such as Molinaretti,
Guercino, Franceschini, Leida, Carracci, Lanfranco, Procaccini,
Cappuccino, Langetti, Castelli, Ferrari, Vercelli, Reni, Merone,
Cogorano, Zanotti, and Merighi. In the first room there is a valuable
triptych by A. Durer, and the gem of the collection, James I. of England
and Family, by Van Dyck. In the reception room are other three choice
works by the same master. The frescoes on the roofs are by Boni, Piola,
Davolio, and Bazzani. In each room there are cards with the names of the
artists and subject.
From the Via Balbi we pass into the +Piazza dell’ Annunziata+, with, on
the left hand, the church of that name, the most sumptuous in Genoa,
built in 1228 by the Monaci Umiliati, but altered and left in its
present state by the Conventurati in 1587. The façade, supported on six
stately marble columns, is unfinished. The interior is full of beauty,
and resplendent with glowing colours harmoniously blended. Over the
entrance is Procaccino’s masterpiece, the Last Supper. The frescoes on
the cupola are by A. Ansaldi, those on the choir by J. Benzo, and the
remainder principally by the Carloni. Among the other beautiful things
are the angels supporting an altar, the spiral pillars in the apse, and
the elegant columns of the nave. In front of this church trams start for
Cornigliano, Sestri Ponente, and Pegli every 10 minutes.
We now pass along the Via Nuovissima, and at No. 6 descend to +San
Siro+, which was the cathedral church of Genoa till 985. The high altar
is by Puget. The fresco on the roof by G. B. Carlone. The marble columns
are all of one piece. Near San Siro, in the confined little square No. 6
Piazza Pellicceria, is the +Palazzo Spinola+, with many beautiful
paintings, such as the Martyrdom of St. Barthélemy and St. Laurent by
Ribera, the Four Seasons by Bassano, Virgin and Child by Guercino,
a Magdalene by Guido, St. Anne and the Virgin by L. Giordano, the Last
Supper by G. C. Procaccini, S. Jerome by Spagnolletti, a Holy Family by
Albani, the Four Evangelists by Van Dyck. In the fourth room is the gem
of the collection, a Holy Family by Rubens. The frescoes are by
Tavarone, G. Sebastiano, Ferrari, and Gallery.
[Headnote: PALAZZO ROSSO.]
In the Via Garibaldi, No. 18, is the +Palazzo Rosso+ (Galleria
Brignoli), with a small but valuable collection of pictures by Italian
masters, distributed among the rooms denominated Spring, Summer, Autumn,
and Winter. The frescoes on the roofs are by Toila, Ferrari, and
Carloni. It contains also a good library.
No. 9 Via Garibaldi is the _Municipicio_ or City Chambers, a splendid
building, entirely of marble, and covered with frescoes representing
incidents in the history of Genoa. All the rooms and galleries are open
to the public excepting the council-chamber, the Sala Rossa, and the
Sala Verde. In the first hall (the council-chamber) is a portrait of
Columbus in mosaic, and on the roof a fresco representing him in the
presence of Ferdinand and Isabella. In the second, among other
paintings, is a triptych ascribed to A. Durer, and in the third (the
Sala Verde) a beautiful bust of Columbus. The architect was Rocco
Lugaro, the ornaments and figures over the windows are by G. T. Carlone,
and the frescoes by Pavarone, Paganelli, Passano, and M. Canzio.
[Headnote: PALAZZO SERRA.]
At No. 12 Via Nuova is the +P. Serra+, built, like most of the other
palaces in this street, about the year 1552, by the celebrated architect
Galeazzo Alessi. The size and distribution of the principal apartments
are excellent, and many are beautifully ornamented in fresco by the
brothers Semini, particularly the ceiling in the first antechamber,
representing the funeral games instituted by Æneas in honour of
Anchises. The dining-room was the work of the famous Genoese architect
Tagliafico, and is greatly admired for its simplicity and good taste.
But the greatest object of attraction in this palace is the grand salon,
shining with gold. Along each side are columns of marble gilt,
alternating with lofty mirrors reaching from the floor to the roof. The
architraves and panels are curiously carved and gilt. The fresco on the
roof is by Leon, and represents the triumph of Spinola over the Turks.
The roof of the next room was painted by A. Semini.
The Palazzo Adorno, No. 8 Via Garibaldi, contains a good though smaller
display of paintings and frescoes. The same may be said of No. 5 in this
same street, the P. Spinola.
At No. 6 Via Garibaldi is the P. Doria, with a handsome portico and
splendid halls containing a choice collection of paintings by P.
Veronese, Guercino, Murillo, Van Dyck, Domenichino, and Tintoretto. We
now enter the Piazza de Ferrari, with the post office, the principal
theatre, the H. Gènes, and the Accademia delle Belle Arti, where young
men assemble at night to study drawing, painting, and sculpture.
Important trams start from this Piazza. The Staglieno tram stops at the
cemetery; the Carignano tram at the church of Carignano.
The second street left from the P. de Ferrari leads to +S. Matteo+,
built in 1278, but altered in 1530 by G. A. Montorsoli at the request of
Andrea Doria, relating to whose family are the numerous inscriptions on
the church. Over the altar is his sword. The “palaces” in front of the
church belonged to the Doria family.
[Headnote: S. AMBROGIO.]
In the Piazza Nuova is +S. Ambrogio+, entirely covered with beautiful
marbles and adorned in much the same style as the church of the
Annunziata. Among other paintings it contains a large picture of the
Assumption by G. Reni, third chapel right; St. Ignatius healing one
possessed of devils, by Rubens; and over the high altar, by the same
master, the Circumcision. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carloni and
Galeotto. The large building to the right is the former +Ducal Palace+,
now the government house. The grand reception room up stairs is
ornamented with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Siena
marble. From the windows is seen the tower of the Embriarci, constructed
by Guglielmo Embriarco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers used
by Godfrey de Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem.
[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.]
On the other side of the Ducal Palace is the +Cathedral+, built in the
11th cent., but repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are of
black and white marble in alternate bands. The façade consists of three
large portals resting on spiral, plain, and twisted columns. The arch of
the centre porch has an immense span, bordered by bold fascicled work,
while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in relief. In
the interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is separated
from the aisles by sombre coloured pillars supporting pointed arches,
over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the choir
has frescoes by Teverone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed in
the 16th cent. The leading feature, however, in this church is _the
chapel of St. John the Baptist_, in the centre of the left aisle. It was
built in 1490, and ornamented with statues by G. Porta and M. Civitali,
of which the best are those representing Zacharias in his official
robes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Under a canopy supported by four
porphyry columns is the shrine by D. Terrano (1437), said to contain the
ashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in 1097. At the end of the
right or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with a Crucifixion by Van
Dyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once famous under the name of
the Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was found at Cæsarea, in Palestine,
and tradition asserted that it had been presented by the Queen of Sheba
to Solomon, and that out of it the Saviour had eaten the paschal lamb
with his disciples. It was believed to be of emerald; and a law was
passed in 1476, declaring that if any one applied a hard substance to
the vase he should suffer death, because it was suspected that the
material was only glass.
Below the cathedral at the foot of the Via S. Lorenzo is a cab-stand,
whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola Gardens to
the Via di Circonvallazione, commanding a series of beautiful views of
Genoa. From the P. de Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carignano, passing
through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 30 c.
[Headnote: S. MARIA. CAMPO SANTO, OR CEMETERY.]
+S. Maria in Carignano+, built 1555-1603 after designs of Galeazzo
Alessi, is 165 ft. square, and 174 ft. above the sea. The statues above
the entrance, of Mary, Peter, and Paul, are by David. Of the four
colossal statues below the dome, St. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are by
Puget; the other two are by Parodi and David. The best of the paintings
(covered) are--St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with Sts. Francis and
Charles by Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Cross
by Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from the
highest gallery on the dome, 368 ft. above the sea, ascended by an
excellent stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. each. The omnibus in the square
goes to the Acqua Sola Gardens. From the top of the little wooded hill
at the N.W. extremity of the Splanata della Acqua Sola is another fine
view.
About 2 m. from Genoa by the western side of the Bisagno is the +Campo
Santo+, the Staglieno cemetery, approached by omnibus every ½ hour from
the Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs parallel to the
Genoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and inequalities of
the mountain sides for nearly 15 miles.
[Headnote: ALBERGO DEI POVERI.]
The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. wide and 820
ft. long, surrounded by a double arcade of marble arches with a span of
21 ft., and 18½ ft. high. Each arch can contain seven tiers of three
coffins each, the end space of each narrow cell allowing just room
enough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. The
poorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground surrounded
by the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where all
that money can command in talented sculpture is made to do service to
the feelings of bereaved friends, by perpetuating the memory of those
they have lost, in the choicest and most costly marbles. These lovely
statues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than the medley
contents of even a famous sculpture-gallery. Above this rise other two
galleries, and behind the second on the hill side is another large piece
of ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and approached by 77
long white marble steps bounded by a massive parapet of dark greenstone
from the quarries of Pegli, is the mortuary chapel, consisting of a
great dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one block of black
marble 32½ ft. high. In eight niches round the interior are colossal
statues of Bible personages, beginning with Eve. The façade rests on six
white marble columns 21 ft. high. The whole vast structure of galleries,
stairs, walls, and floors is arched into cells and vaults for the dead.
At the N.W. end of Genoa, above the Annunziata, is the workhouse,
+Albergo dei Poveri+, 318 ft. above the sea, on the Via di
Circonvallazione, founded in the 17th cent., and containing
accommodation for 1300 poor. At the E. end of the city is a large
establishment for the insane, called the Regio Manicomio.
+The Riviera di Levante; or, Genoa to Pisa.+
Distance 102½ miles, time 4½ hours by “direct” train. See Maps,
pages 199 and 211.
miles from GENOA
miles to PISA
{ }{102½}
+GENOA.+--The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are, with the
exception of Bordighera and S. Remo, those situated between Nervi and
Rapallo. The coast is exceedingly picturesque and sheltered from the N.
winds by precipitous mountains, covered at the base with vineyards,
orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones with olive, peach, and
fig trees. Lord Carnarvon has been the first to take advantage of the
superior beauties of this part of the Riviera in the choice of a site
for a villa on Cape Portofino. Map, p. 211.
[Headnote: NERVI.]
{7½}{95}
+NERVI+, pop. 8000. *H. et P. Anglais, E. from the station, with large
garden, 8 to 15 frs. H. et P. Victoria, on the W. side of station, 9 to
12 frs. On the face of the mountain, about 100 ft. above the H. et
P. Anglais, the *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 8 to 9 frs., including wine;
admirably situated. In the Piazza, near the station, and at the terminus
of the Genoa and Nervi trams, is the *P. Suisse, 6 to 8 frs. Opposite,
the H. et P. Nervi, 9 to 12 frs. English doctors. Episcopalian service.
Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one continuous
narrow street 2 m. long, hemmed in between houses and walls. On the S.
side is the sea, on the N. high hills covered with olive trees and
studded with churches and cottages. Ten m. S.E. from Nervi is +Santa
Margherita Ligure+, pop. 5000. *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 7 to 10 frs.
A charmingly situated town at the head of a sheltered tiny bay. In the
neighbourhood is the sumptuous villa Spinola, in the midst of beautiful
gardens. The prettiest walk is by the road skirting the beach to the
village and promontory of Portofino, 3 m. S. To the right or N. is the
villa Castello di Pagi, and on the fourth hill from the end of the
promontory the villa of Lord Carnarvon overlooking the little fishing
village of Portofino, and commanding a glorious view.
{18½}{84}
+RAPALLO+, pop. 6000. H. et P. Europe, 8 to 10 frs. At the head of a
small bay. A good deal of lace and olive oil is made here. Among the
many pretty walks is the one to S. Margherita, 2 m. N., by the low road
skirting the beach. The high road is more beautiful, and a trifle
longer.
[Headnote: CHIÁVARI.]
{24¼}{78¼}
+CHIÁVARI+, pop. 12,000, at the mouth of the Entella. _Inns:_ Albergo
della Fenicé; Locanda Nazionale; Caffé Ristorante Priario. One of the
best towns on the coast, with well-paved and arcaded streets,
substantial houses, and handsome churches containing a few valuable
pictures. The most profusely ornamented is, close to the station, the
church of the Virgin of Orta, whose “sacred” picture hangs over the high
altar. Chiávari manufactures lace and chairs of light wood with twisted
straw seats, plain and coloured, called Sedié di Chiávari. Many of the
organ-grinders are said to hail from this town. 4½ m. from Chiávari,
across the Lavagnaro, is Sestri Levante, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ Grand
Hotel, with palm-garden; Italia. Trains halt a few minutes at this
pleasant place, the Segeste of the Romans. Sestri is situated on a bay
terminating with a promontory, on which is a garden commanding a grand
view. Shortly after passing Riomaggiore, 51½ miles from Genoa, the Gulf
of Spezia comes into view, with the promontory of Porto Venere and the
island of Palmaria on the right, and in front numerous capes, the chief
of which is Cape Corvo. From Sestri to Spezia by carriage and pair, 45
frs.
[Headnote: SPEZIA.]
{56½}{46}
+SPEZIA+, pop. 11,500, 1 m. from station. Spezia, although near good
scenery, has nothing attractive itself; neither does it make a suitable
winter residence. It has some excellent hotels bordering the spacious
corso along the beach, the best being the “Croce di Malta,” a large and
handsome building, 10 to 15 frs. Then follow the H. National; the
Italia; and, below the arcade, the Brettagna, all first-class, but the
Brettagna is the most moderate. Boats with one man, 1½ fr. per hour;
with two men, 2 frs. In 1861 Spezia was made a station of the Italian
navy. As a harbour it is one of the finest and largest in the world.
Napoleon I. intended to have made it the Mediterranean harbour of
France. The Royal Dockyard, at the southwest side of the town, occupies
150 acres; while the artillery magazines, in the bay of S. Vito, cover
an area of 100 acres. On the W. side of the bay is the picturesque Porto
Venere, the ancient Portus Veneris, 8 m. distant by land, 10 frs. per
carriage 1½ hr., or boat 2½ hrs. The marble of Porto Venere is black,
with gold-coloured veins.
“To the N.W. and W. of Spezia is a chain of mountains, of which Monte
Bergamo, 2109 ft., is the most distant. It may be ascended from the
Genoa road, which runs under its N.E. flank. Nearer to Spezia is Monte
Parodi with a carriage-road to the top, whence there is a grand
panoramic view of the surrounding country. Near this is the village of
Biassa, whose inhabitants are supposed to be of Moorish origin. While
the N.W. coast of the Gulf of Spezia is rugged and hilly, the northern
and eastern portion for about three miles is comparatively level, which
renders it a good walking place for invalids. The valleys of the
Migliarini, at the northern extremity of the eastern half of the Spezia
valley, are also excellently adapted for invalids, especially at that
time of the day when the sea-breeze is blowing freshly. A favourite
excursion from Spezia by water is to Lerici and San Terenzo, about 6 m.
S.E. The steamer sails at noon, and returns at 4. Lerici is in a most
sheltered situation, and remains in sunshine an hour after the sun has
set at Spezia. The house, a square old-fashioned Italian villa, which
Shelley occupied in 1822, is on the shore close to the sea, near the
village.” --_The Riviera_, by Dr. Sparks. After Spezia, the train
crosses the Magra, the ancient boundary between Italy and Liguria, and
arrives at
[Headnote: SARZANA.]
{67¾}{34¾}
+SARZANA+, pop. 11,200. _Hotels:_ New York; Londres. This ancient town,
with the picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, formerly belonged to the
Grand Duke of Tuscany, who, in the 15th century, ceded it to the Genoese
in exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was the
birthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, who, from a simple monk, was in 1447
elected pope under the title of Nicholas V., and who constituted his
native place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning and
founder of the Vatican library.
The Bonaparte family lived in this town till 1612, when they removed to
Corsica. The cathedral (14th cent.) is a plain cruciform edifice, partly
of marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first street
right, is the citadel, two minutes’ distant; and about fifteen minutes’
farther, the fortress built by Antelminelli, Lord of Lucca, a beautiful
though low machicolated structure on the top of a hill overlooking the
railway. Both citadel and castle are partly in ruins, and well seen from
the station.
[Headnote: AVENZA.--CARRARA.]
{74}{31}
+AVENZA.+ Station for Carrara, 3¼ miles N.E. by branch line. Gigs also
for Carrara await passengers at the station. Fare, 5 fr.
+Carrara+ (pop. 14,000), situated on the Carrione, formed by the union
of the Torano, Fantiscritti and Colonnata streams, descending valleys
with valuable marble strata. _Hotels:_ The Nazionale, close to the
theatre; The Posta, adjoining the Post-office and close to the
Accademia. Near the Nazionale is the Italian Protestant chapel. At the
station great blocks of marble meet the eye. Passing them and crossing
the bridge by Walton’s marble works, walk up the Corso Vittorio
Emanuele to the Piazza Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a
short arcade. Near the right side of this piazza are the two hotels.
The road to the left leads up the Carrione to the valley of the stream
Torano, and the village of the same name, ¾ of a mile from Carrara.
The valley now becomes narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden
bullock-carts more numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble.
To the left rises Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio
Silvestro, Polvaccio di Betogli, and the Mossa del Zampone, from all
of which the Romans procured statuary marble, and which still continue
to yield some of the finest quality. All the quarries (cavé), of which
there are 400, employing 6000 men, are a good way up the face of the
mountains. The ascent to them is over steep slippery marble debris.
The nearest and the easiest “cavé” to visit are on Mt. Crestola. The
other quarries are in the valleys of the Colonnata and of its affluent
the Fantiscritti. In the Fantiscritti mines Roman relics have been
found. Any boy will do to show the way to the rivers Carrione and
Torano, and when there it is impossible to go wrong; but to visit any
particular mines a guide is necessary. Fee 4 fr. Besides the common
road there is a railway for the conveyance of marble blocks from the
valley of the Torano to the Marina or Port of Carrara. Many antique
Roman statues are of marble from Carrara, anciently called Luni. The
marble of which the Greek statues are made is from Paros, and from
Mount Pentelicon, near Athens. Carrara is a healthy and busy town, not
troubled in the least with mosquitoes in winter and spring. The great
business of the town is the transporting and dressing of marble; and
the principal establishments the studios of the artists, where
statues, monuments, chimney-pieces, and ornaments are sculptured and
exposed for sale. Admission readily granted.
The churches present nothing remarkable; the marble of the exterior
walls of the cathedral has become brown, while that of the interior is
nearly black. In the Accademia delle Belle Arti are some good copies
of the works of great artists and a few Roman antiquities found
chiefly in the mines of Fantiscritti.
miles from GENOA
miles to PISA
{78¼}{26¾}
+MASSA+ is about a mile from the railway, by a good road, at the foot of
Mt. Castagnola, which, with the still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts.
Tambura and Rotondo, protect it from the northerly and easterly winds,
so that it may be considered one of the winter stations on the
Mediterranean. The climate is mild, as the vigorous orange trees in the
gardens testify. In the neighbourhood are many pleasant walks, both on
the plain and up the valleys. The Hotel Giappone in the Piazza Aranci,
although a plain house, is clean, and is kept by kindly people. The town
is quiet; there are a few workers and dealers in marble, but the
principal occupation is agricultural. The ducal palace in the square was
once the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi, Napoleon’s sister. Valuable
marble quarries. Pop. 5000.
{84¼}{20¾}
+PIETRASANTA+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Europa. A poor town, with marble works
near the station outside of the walls, where baths are chiefly made. On
the first large house, right hand of square, a tablet informs us that in
it Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, “strinse nuovi
contratti per la facciata di S. Lorenzo in Firenze.” S. Martino (13th
cent.) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found in nearly all the
churches in this neighbourhood. At the entrance opposite the Campanile
(1380) is a font about the same period. In the interior of the church
are handsome marble columns, confessionals, pulpit, and font. The domes
and semidomes are painted in fresco. Next is the Uffizio Municipale,
with, in front, a statue to Leopold II., 1848. Then follows St. Agostino
(14th cent.), all within a few yards of each other. In the neighbourhood
are quicksilver and argentiferous mines and the Quarceta marble
quarries.
[Headnote: VIAREGGIO.]
{90¾}{14¼}
+VIAREGGIO+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Russie; Pension Anglo-Americaine;
Commercio. A favourite sea-bathing station of the inhabitants of Pisa
and Florence. On the 22d of July 1882 the body of Shelley was found cast
on this beach. A few miles eastward, towards Lucca, is Lake
Massaciuccoli, and the Roman ruins called the Bagni di Nerone, about
6 m. W. from Lucca in a beautiful country.
[Headnote: PISA.]
{105}{ }
+PISA+, pop. 26,300. _Hotels:_ On right bank of the Arno, in the Lung’
Arno Regio, the *Grand Hotel; *Bretagna; *Nettuno; Londra. Close to
station, right hand, the *Minerva et de la Ville; Washington; left hand,
Commerce. Behind the H. Bretagna is the Anglican church. On the left
side of the Arno, opposite the Victoria, is the Post-office. Cab-stand
at the station. _Fares._--From the station to the cathedral, with from
one to two passengers, 1 fr.; from three to four, 1 fr. 15 sous. The
hour, 2 fr. From the station go straight up the Via Vittorio Emanuele to
the Arno, where cross the bridge and walk down the river to the fifth
street right, the Via Santa Maria, crossed by an arch at the
commencement. The Via Santa Maria leads directly to the Piazza del
Duomo, containing, in a row, the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and the
Baptistery, and immediately behind, the Campo Santo, with frescoes
considerably effaced, yet valuable as specimens of the Tuscan school of
the 14th and 15th centuries. Fee for the Campo Santo 25 cents each.
[Headnote: PIAZZA DEL DUOMO--CATHEDRAL.]
The _Cathedral_, commenced in 1063 by the Greek architect Buschetto, was
completed in 1092. The exterior is adorned with a range of blind arches
decorated with party-coloured marble. Four open arcades, similarly
constructed, rise over the western entrance, with the beautiful bronze
doors of John of Bologna, as well as over those at the southern entrance
by Bonano. Both doors are covered with a profusion of figures in
delicately wrought iron, representing saints, prophets, and various
other objects, enclosed in an elegant border of birds, foliage, fruits,
and flowers. The internal length of the church is 311½ ft., and of the
transepts 252 ft. The roof of the nave is 109 ft. high. A double row of
columns runs up the nave, and a single row along the transepts and
choir. Sixty of them are of oriental granite, and the rest (14) of fine
marble, and each of one piece. The arches resting on them are
semicircular, and are mostly in alternate layers of white and black
marble. The roof is covered with richly gilt panelling. The altars are
by Michael Angelo, and are arranged in pairs, each couple opposite each
other being alike, excepting the two at the opposite ends of the
transepts, which, however, are similar in design. One represents the
fall by woman, and the other the reconciliation by woman in the
ascension of the Virgin. Over the high altar, on the semidome, is a
colossal Mosaic by G. Gaddi, in 1325. Among the best of the paintings
are four of saints by A. del Sarto, near the bishops’ chairs. Here also
are paintings of Moses and Aaron, St. Luke and St. John, by Beccafumi,
and the Sacrifice of Abraham and the Entombment by Sodoma. Upon a pier
of the right transept is a St. Agnes by A. del Sarto, and on the
corresponding pier of the left transept a Madonna by Perino del Vaga. In
the right transept notice the altar of St. Blaise, the chapel and tomb
of S. Ranieri, the great picture of the Virgin with Saints by del Vaga
and Sogliani. In the left (north) transept is the chapel of the Holy
Sacrament, with a beautiful silver ciborium. The windows are small, but
have some fine stained glass of the 14th and 15th cents. Galileo, while
a student at Pisa, discovered, by observing the oscillations of the lamp
suspended in the nave, that the vibrations of a pendulum are
synchronous, or recur at equal intervals whether great or small.
[Map: Pisa]
[Headnote: LEANING TOWER.]
The _Campanile_ or leaning tower is a cylindrical edifice built of
square blocks of compact marble, and consisting of a well-designed solid
basement, 159 ft. in circumference, with walls 13 ft. thick, above which
rise six open arcaded galleries, supported by 200 granite and marble
columns. Over the sixth arcade rises a round tower 27 ft. high. The
entire height is 183 ft., the mean diameter of the main portion 52 ft.,
and the deflection from the perpendicular 11 ft. 2 inches, exclusive of
the cornice, which projects 32 inches more. It was commenced in 1174,
and finished 1350. The ascent is very easy, by a stair 3 ft. wide,
formed in the wall; but not fewer than three are allowed to visit the
top at the same time. Fee for the party, 1 fr. The keeper lives in one
of the small houses (No. 14) nearly opposite.
[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--CEMETERY.]
The Baptistery is a circular building, 361½ feet in circumference,
surmounted by a dome 180 feet high, and constructed after the designs of
Diotisalvi. It was commenced in 1153 and finished towards the end of the
14th cent. Above the third storey rises the dome, intersected by long
lines of very prominent fretwork, meeting in a cornice near the top, and
terminating in a small dome crowned with a statue of St. John the
Baptist, the titular saint of all such edifices. In the interior eight
large Sardinian granite columns and four marble piers support twelve
arches, over which rises the tier of piers and arches which support the
cupola, within conical, but externally hemispherical. In the centre
stands an octagon marble font for the baptism of adults, with four
circular compartments at opposite sides for the baptism of infants. The
beautiful pulpit by Niccolo da Pisa (1260) is ornamented with
bas-reliefs, and supported on seven columns. Behind the Baptistery is
the _Campo Santo_, founded about the year 1189 by the Archbishop Ubaldo.
It is a rectangle 424 feet long by 145 broad, and surrounded by a broad
gallery with a plain wall to the exterior, and 62 mullioned arches with
quatrefoil tracery towards the interior. The inner side of the wall is
covered with paintings in fresco, begun about the year 1300, and
continued till 1670. Immediately to the left on entering is the monument
of the oculist Andrea Vacca by Thorwaldsen. To the right commence
frescoes illustrating incidents in the life of St. Ranieri, the patron
saint of Pisa, by Andrea da Firenzi, 1377. Those beyond the second door
illustrate the temptations and miracles of hermits in the Theban
wilderness, by the Lorenzetti. Between Nos. 39 and 40, Hell. Above 38,
the Day of Judgment. Then, by Orcagna, the Power of Death,--filling
those living in pleasure with horror, but those in sorrow with joy. Now
follow (in the eastern side) the oldest of the three chapels, and
frescoes illustrating the Crucifixion, Resurrection, and Ascension. On
the north wall the most interesting frescoes are by Puccio Orvieto, 14th
cent., illustrative of events in the Old Testament. On the west wall is
hung part of the chain the Pisanos caused to be drawn across the mouth
of the harbour, which, however, Conrad Doria broke through in 1290,
burnt the fleet of Pisa, and carried off the chain to Genoa. A few years
ago, according to the inscription, the Genoese returned it to Pisa. On
the wall, under the chain, is the monument to Giov. Niccoli Pisano; and,
a little to the right, a Madonna by that famous sculptor. The empty
space within the cloisters was once the common burying-ground of the
city. It is filled, to the depth of ten feet with earth brought from the
Holy Land by the galleys of Pisa. [Headnote: S. MARIA DELLA SPINA.]
Among the other churches may be mentioned Santa Maria della Spina, on
the bank of the Arno (a low square church)--an excellent specimen of the
Moorish-Gothic introduced into Italy in the 11th cent. The churches of
St. Matteo, St. Pierino, St. Michele in Borgo, St. Andrea, and St.
Francisco, contain a few curious and some good paintings, with other
antiquities. The church of St. Stephano is reputed to contain the bones
of St. Stephen. The palaces of the Cavaliers, Lanfreducci, Seta, and
Casa Mecherini, are worthy of notice.
Near the Grand Hotel is the Sapienza or University, founded by the
Emperor Henry VII. The quays and bridges of Pisa are extensive, and
well-constructed. Four miles from Pisa are the baths of St. Julian,
considered beneficial for diseases of the liver and gout (see next
page).
[Map: Leghorn]
[Headnote: LEGHORN. STEAMERS FOR CORSICA.]
Between Pisa and Leghorn there are trains nearly every hour, distance
11¼ miles. +Leghorn+ (pop. 90,000). _Hotels:_ In the Piazza del
Cantiere, the Nord, fronting the harbour; and close by, in the Via
Vittorio Emanuele, the Bretagne; New York; France; and at No. 59 of the
same street, Il Giappone. Anglican church in the Scala degli Hollandesi.
Presbyterian church, No. 3 Via degli Elisi. Cabs per hour, 1½ fr. Boat
from the hotel to the steamer, 2 fr. Leghorn has many handsome and
well-paved streets; among the best of them is the Via Vittorio Emanuele,
which, commencing at the head of the harbour from the Piazza dei
Cantieri, traverses the principal square, the Piazza d’Armi, with the
cathedral, and extends to the Piazza Carlo Alberto. Its continuation, on
the other side of the square, the Via Larderel, extends to a large
building on the right hand crowned with a semi-dome. This is the grand
reservoir, supplied with water from the mountains Colognone by an
aqueduct 12 m long. Smollett died at Leghorn just after completing
“Humphrey Clinker,” and was buried in the English cemetery. Steam-boats
every week for Bastia in Corsica, for Porto Torres in Sardinia, and for
Marseilles and Genoa.
+Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja.+
Distance 62 miles east. See Map of Turin to Florence, page 199.
miles from PISA
miles to FLORENCE
{ }{62}
+PISA.+ The direct line to Florence is by Pontedera Empoli. Distance,
49 miles. Time, 2 hours and 10 minutes. The first station by the Lucca
route is _San Giuliano_, with its thermal springs, temp. 109° and 84°
Fahr., rising from a calcareous rock at the foot of the wooded Monti
Pisani. The waters “are used internally in chronic hepatic complaints,
in gravel, and some renal affections; in dysentery, and dyspepsia
attended with pain and vomiting.” --Madden’s _Health Resorts_. After
Giuliano, we reach the Rigoli station, whence the line extends along the
left side of the Serchio, enclosed within its bed by expensive
embankments.
{15}{47}
+LUCCA+ (pop. 22,000). Each portmanteau taken from the station to the
cab, 6 sous; bag, 2 sous. Cabs await passengers, 1 fr.; portmanteau,
4 sous.
_Sights._--A walk on the ramparts, 3 miles in circumference, and a visit
to the Duomo and to the Picture-Gallery. To the south of Lucca, near the
station, is an ancient aqueduct of 459 arches.
[Headnote: PALAZZO DUCALE--PICTURE-GALLERY.]
_Hotels:_ Universo, between the Duomo and the Piazza Napoleone, a first
class-hotel; Croce di Malta, near the Piazza Napoleone; and the Corona,
near the Piazza also, but towards the church of St. Michele. Diligence
to the Baths of Lucca start from a court opposite the H. Corona.
Distance, 17 miles. Fare, 3 fr. Carriage, 15 fr. Money-changer in the
Piazza dell’Erba, off the P. Napoleone. Lucca is one of the most ancient
cities in Italy. Originally it belonged to the Etrurians, but was taken
from them by the Ligurians, and colonised by the Romans about 170 years
before the birth of our Lord. The most remarkable event that
distinguished it in ancient times was the interview which took place
here between Cæsar, Pompey, and Crassus, and which attracted to the town
half the senate and nobility of Rome. After the fall of the Roman
empire, Lucca was governed by princes of its own, from one of whose
race, Azon II., of the house of Este, the royal families of Brunswick
and England are descended. The town is in the form of the letter O,
surrounded by ramparts which afford a most agreeable drive. At the
railway end is the Piazza Napoleone, and near it all the principal
sights. One entire side of the Piazza is occupied by the Palazzo Ducale,
now the Palazzo Provinciale, a vast and substantial edifice, built in
1578, enclosing two large courts, and containing the prefecture, the
post-office, the picture-gallery, and the government offices. The
+Picture-Gallery+, open every day (except Mondays), between 10 and 2,
although small, contains some precious works, in handsome halls. In the
first room is a Madonna della Misericordia, and in the second, the
Creator with Mary Magdalene and St. Catherine, both by Fra. Bartolommeo,
in 1515 and 1509. Also pictures by Reni, Zucchero, and Tiziano. In the
Sala da Ballo, painted in fresco by Luigi Adamolli Milanese in 1819, are
a Madonna by Perugini; a full length portrait of Napoleon’s sister
Elisa; and two ancient pictures on wood--a Nativity, and a Christ with
Saints. The remainder of the pictures are in the rooms which were
occupied by Maria Aloysia Borbonia (Marie Louise), whose monument by
Bartolini (1843) stands in the centre of the square. Leaving the Piazza
Napoleone, by the street at the end of the small avenue, we come to
another open space containing San Giovanni and the Duomo, and between
the two churches a house called the “Administrazione del opera della
chiesa;” where, among other things, are preserved _La Croce dei Pisani_,
an elaborately wrought gilt silver cross, by B. Baroni in 1350, and the
gold lamp, weighing 24 lbs., which formerly hung in front of the
Tempietto in the Duomo. They are shown at any time, but a fr. is
expected. [Headnote: CATHEDRAL.] The Cathedral or Duomo of St. Martino
was commenced by Anselmo Badagio, who, three years afterwards, as Pope
Alexander II., blessed the enterprise of the Norman invader of England.
The façade, with its three tiers of columned galleries, was built in
1204, the choir in 1308, and the triforium in 1400. The sculptures of
the portico are subjects from the life of St. Martin. Over the door on
the left is a Descent from the Cross, by Nicolo di Pisa, 1233. Loftiness
and simplicity, verging on plainness, characterise the interior of this
church, as well as those of all the others in Lucca, with the exception
of San Romano, which is profusely decorated. The windows are small and
filled with modern glass, excepting the three at the eastern end, which
are by P. Ugolino. All the pictures are covered, excepting on Sundays
and feast-days, but the custodian can always be found in the sacristy,
who shows the church for a franc. Commencing at the first altar, right
hand from main entrance, Nativity, by Passignano; second, Adoration of
the Magi, P. Zucchero; third, Last Supper, Tintoretto; fourth,
Crucifixion, Passignano; fifth, Resurrection. In south transept, west
side, is the monument to Pietro da Noceto, one of the many admirable
works by Matteo Civitali, to whose genius the church owes its best
sculpture, which he contributed during a period of nearly thirty years
from 1472. The angels on the altar in the Chapel del Sagramento,
opposite the monument, as well as the whole of the chaste white marble
altar in the Chapel of St. Regulus, adjoining the sacramental chapel,
are by him. On the left side of the high altar is the altar to “Christo
Liberatori,” by G. Bologna, and adjoining, La Cappella del Santuario,
where again we find the beautiful handiwork of Civitali displayed on the
altar and reliquaries on both sides. The +Madonna+ which forms the
reredos of the altar is by Fra Bartolommeo. This picture and the Madonna
by Ghirlandaio (1400), in the sacristy, are the two gems in the church.
Just outside the Cappella del Santuario is a recumbent figure of _Ilaria
del Carretto_ by Jacopo della Quercia (1444), unfortunately slightly
mutilated, yet a beautiful imitation of the repose of nature transferred
to statuary. [Headnote: THE TEMPIETTO. S. GIOVANNI. S. FREDIANO.] In the
north aisle is the +Tempietto+, a small octagonal chapel standing apart,
in which is preserved the cedar wood crucifix, 8th or 9th cent., said to
have been carved by Nicodemus with the assistance of an angel. The
fresco on the left side of the main entrance into the Duomo represents
him cutting it out. This cross is exhibited three times a year. The
embroidery on the red curtain is an exact copy. The figure of
S. Sebastian on the Tempietto, as well as the elegant pulpit opposite,
are by Civitali. Opposite the cathedral is San Giovanni, founded in the
12th cent. The baldness of its great walls is partly relieved by the
coloured panelled ceiling. Leaving the Piazza Napoleone by the western
corner of the Palazzo Provinziale, we soon reach the Piazza and Church
of San Michele, founded in the 8th cent., with a lofty façade composed
of tiers of variously shaped columns. Continuing in the same direction
towards the ramparts, we reach +S. Frediano+, of the 7th cent., with a
large Mosaic (12th cent.) over the main entrance. Just within it, on
each side, are frescoes by Ghirlandaio. To the right is an ancient
circular font about 9 feet in diameter, beautifully carved in relief by
Magister Robertus in 1151. The font at present used is against the wall,
and is by N. Civitali, the nephew of Matteo. The second chapel on the
right contains the tomb of St. Zeta, the patroness of Lucca, in a
sarcophagus on the altar. Third chapel beyond this (east side) is a
coronation of the Virgin by Francia, and on the opposite wall of the
same chapel a curious old carving in relief, representing the assumption
of the Virgin. On the opposite side of the church is a chapel covered
with ancient frescoes by Aspertino, one of which represents the
transporting to the church of the cross made by Nicodemus after it had
been found in the sea. By the side of it is St. Augustine being baptised
by St. Ambrosius at Milan; and above them, in the semicircle, an
entombment. Opposite is S. Frediano (who was an Irishman) staying by
prayer an encroachment of the sea, and an Adoration of the Magi. Above
is St. Ambrosius instructing his disciples. On the ceiling, God
surrounded by Angels, Saints, and Prophets. 3½ m. from Lucca is the
Villa di Marlia, in the midst of beautiful grounds.
+The Baths of Lucca.+
17 miles from Lucca. See Map, page 199.
The road ascends by the left bank of the river Serchio, through
pleasing scenery, passing the town of Muriano, situated on the right
side of the river. About 13 miles from Lucca is the curious bridge of
the Maddalena, consisting of four arches, the arch next the village of
Borgo being disproportionately large, and with a gradient from the
bank to the centre of 60°. It is only 4 feet wide, and, although built
in 1322, is the only bridge across the Serchio that withstood
uninjured the great flood of 1836, when the Serchio attained in three
hours a height till then unknown, and swept away with irresistible
fury all the other bridges, and broke up the mounds, dikes, and
embankments. The two villages (pop. 9500) which go under the name of
the Baths of Lucca are _Il Serraglio_ on the left bank, and _Corsena_
on the right bank of the Lima, near its junction with the Serchio. On
the hill behind Corsena are the springs and bathing establishments. By
the side of the Lima is the Bagno Cardinali, close to the Casino; and
about 100 feet above the Cardinali is the Bagno Bernabó. A short way
westward, overlooking the valley of the Lima, is the Bagno Doccebasse,
and immediately below it the Bagno dello Spedale-Demidoff, for the
exclusive use of the poor. On the top of the hill, among some houses,
is the Bagno Caldo, and a little to the east, standing by itself, the
Bagno San Giovanni. _Hotels:_ the best are Pagnini’s Hotel and
Pension, next the Casino; and the America, nearer the bridge. On the
opposite side of the river, in Il Serraglio, are the New York, and
the Corona, plainer houses. A mile up the river by the right bank,
along a beautiful road, the Strada Elisa, is another village, which is
also included in the Baths of Lucca, the +Bagno alla Villa+, the most
beautifully situated of the three. _Hotels:_ At the entrance of the
village, the H. and P. Queen Victoria. At the foot of the hill on
which the bathing establishment is situated, the H. and P. du Pavilion
and the Anglican chapel. Near them the H. and P. du Parc. The pension
price in all, both here and at Corsena, is from 7 to 11 frs. _Cabs:_
First hour, 2 fr.; afterwards 1½ fr. Numerous furnished houses to let.
From 400 to 1000 fr. for six months.
The bathing establishments are fitted up with every modern appliance.
The baths are rather small. Chemically the different springs are very
similar, but in temperature they vary; the coolest is the Doccebasse,
85° Fahr., and the hottest the Bagno Caldo, 133° Fahr. The principal
ingredients are sulphates and carbonates of lime, chlorides of soda
and magnesia, and carbonate of iron. The total amount of saline matter
being 15 grs. to the pint. On a tablet at the entrance to the baths of
La Villa is inscribed a list of the diseases cured by the water; but
their principal action is on the digestive organs, and through them
sympathetically on the whole animal economy. Besides, a great deal of
the beneficial effect said to be produced by the water ought with more
reason to be ascribed to the delightful mountain air, and the charming
walks, drives, and rides, which entice visitors to spend the greater
part of the day in healthy rambles. The surrounding country is
beautiful--steep mountains covered with vines, chestnuts and oaks rise
on each side of the river; while well-made paths and roads wend their
way up through these vineyards and forests to multitudes of points of
various heights, commanding charming views. Season, May to
October.
[Headnote: PISTOJA. CATHEDRAL--BAPTISTERY--PAL. MUNICIPALE--S. ANDREA.]
miles from PISA
miles to FLORENCE
{40½}{21½}
+PISTOJA+ (pop. 13,600). _Hotels:_ Globe et Londres; Inghilterra, both
in the Piazza Cino. Cabs from the station to the hotels, 1 fr.;
portmanteau, 20 c. Next the H. Inghilterra is the church of S. Giovanni,
erected at the end of the 12th cent., in alternate layers of black and
white marble. The sculptured pulpit, resting on lions, is supposed to be
by Fra Guglielmo of Pisa, 1270. The centre of interest is in the Piazza
Duomo, easily found from different parts of the town by means of the
lofty Campanile, the “Torre del Podesta,” which rises above all the
other buildings. By the side of it is the Duomo, a plain edifice, built
in 1240. Over the central door is a Madonna, with angels, by A. della
Robbia, and over the side-door frescoes by Balducci and Giovanni
Christiani, 1369. To the right, on entering, is the monument to the
jurist Cino (1336). In the upper tier he is represented addressing an
assembly, accompanied by six other doctors, while below he is
represented in his class-room lecturing to nine students. The altar of
the chapel, to the right of the high altar, is of solid silver. It is
generally covered, but by applying at the sacristy a man will uncover it
for 2 fr. It remained unfinished for more than 150 years (1314-1466),
and is said to be the finest piece of silversmith’s work of that time in
Italy, and that 416 lbs. of silver were employed in its execution. Below
the chancel is a crypt. Fronting the Duomo is the _Baptistery_, begun
1339 (by C. di Nese), an elegant octagonal structure, also in alternate
layers of black and white marble, each corner terminating in a pinnacle.
The font is quadrangular, of panelled marbles, and constructed in the
13th cent. Outside, near the door, is a beautiful stone pulpit.
Adjoining is the Palazzo del Podestá (now the seat of the Tribunale
Civile), constructed in 1367, and restored in 1864. The vaults and
soffits of the massive arches are covered with the armorial bearings of
the former mayors of the town; while, to the left of the entrance, are
still the stone-seats and tables where they sat in judgment. Opposite is
the Palazzo Municipale (14th cent.), and a little way down the street,
the Ospedale del Ceppo (13th cent.), with a coloured terra-cotta frieze.
Near the two hotels is the church of _S. Maria dell’ Umilta_, built in
1509 by Ventura Vitoni. In the vestibule are large frescoes by Vasari.
Near it is _S. Andrea_ (12th cent.), with quaint reliefs over the
entrance door, and in the interior a precious marble pulpit, sculptured
by Giovanni da Pisa, 1298-1301. The beadle, for a trifle, illuminates
this piece of elaborate sculpture, when it is seen to still greater
advantage. Between the two last churches is _S. Filippo da Neri_, with
such a quantity of frescoes, representing angels and saints in glory,
that even the visitor on entering feels himself among clouds also. In
the Piazza Prato is S. Francesco, with some good frescoes and altar
pieces. In the centre of the nave is the tomb of an Englishman, Thomas
de Weston, Doctor Legum, 1408. The word pistol is said to be derived
from the name of this town, as they have been manufactured here from a
very early date. Catiline lost his life in a battle fought near Pistoia,
B.C. 62, and the precise spot where he is said to have fallen is marked
by a tower.
Passengers from Pisa to Florence have generally to change carriages at
Pistoja.
11¼ m. from Florence and 50¼ m. from Pisa is Prato, pop. 13,100.
_Hotels:_ Giardinetto, Contrucci, surrounded by ancient walls, and
defended by a castle built by the Ghibelines. The interior and exterior
of the Cathedral are faced with white and green marble in bands. The
nave has columns of serpentine. The elevated choir has good frescoes by
Filippo Lippi, and in a chapel are others by Agnolo Gaddi (1365).
[Headnote: FLORENCE. HOTELS AND PENSIONS.]
61½ m. from Pisa by Lucca, or 49 m. by Empoli, is Florence, 357 m. from
Turin, 82 m. from Bologna, 134 m. from Piacenza, 196 m. from Rome, and
60¼ m. from Leghorn.
+FLORENCE+, on the Arno, pop. 169,000. _Hotels and Apartments:_ On the
right or north side of the Arno, the Grand Hôtel Royal de la Paix; de la
Ville; Grand Hôtel d’Italie; Washington; Grand Hôtel Nueva York; Gran
Bretagna; del Arno; and just behind the Paix, the Russie. All these
hotels have a south exposure, and are greatly run after in winter.
Charge from 10 to 16 frs. per day, according to the room. The following
charge from 9 to 13 frs., and are situated in the new streets a little
way back from the Arno, and near the Cascine or Park of Florence
(north-west side of plan):--Hôtel and Pension Corona d’Italia, Via
Montebello; Hôtel and Pension Iles Britanniques in No. 42; and Hôtel and
Pension Venise in No. 33 Via della Scala. In the Iles Britanniques are
also furnished apartments at from 250 frs. to 400 frs. per month. Hôtel
and Pension Couronne d’Angleterre, Via Solferino; Hôtel and Pension
Anglo-Americain, Via Garibaldi; and the Universo in the Corso Vitt.
Emmanuele. In the busy parts of the town, and charging rather less than
the above, the Hôtel Milan No. 12 Via Cerretani; Hôtel and Pension
Angleterre, Via Panzani; and at No. 21 of same street, Hôtel Bonciani,
with front also to the Piazza S. Maria Novella. Near the bridge La Santa
Trinitá, and in the Via Tornabuoni are the Europe and Nord. In the Via
Porta Rossa the Hôtel Porta Rossa; in the Via della Spada the Ville de
Paris; in the Via Condotta, La Luna; in the Piazza S. Maria Novella
(near the station) Hôtel Roma; Minerva; Bonciani, with furnished
apartments; and by the side of the station, La Posta and Rebecchino. In
the Piazza Maria Novella there are omnibuses for Sesto Fiorentino and a
large cab-stand. Conveniently situated for visiting the sights, and not
expensive (from 7 to 9 frs. per day), are the H. d’Espagne above the
Restaurant Etruria and the Etoile d’Italie in the V. Calzaioli. Pension
Suisse, Via Tornabuoni; Le Phœnix, Via dei Martelli; Lion Blanc (in
which also single rooms are let), Via Vigna Nuova; Cavour, Via del
Proconsolo; Commerce, Piazza di S. Maria Novella; Hôtel and Pension
Rudolfo, Via della Scala. Furnished apartments all over the town. Just
outside the Porta Romana, in the Viale Petrarcha, furnished apartments
cost from 250 to 400 frs. the month. The most expensive as well as the
most fashionable are those situated on the right bank of the Arno; but
in the streets a little way back from the Arno apartments can be had for
less. It is of very great importance in winter to have bedrooms with a
south exposure. Those with a north exposure feel cold even on a sunny
day. People who take furnished rooms can dine at very moderate rates in
restaurants, such as the Toscana or the Etruria, both in the Via
Calzaioli. Best money-changers and restaurants in the Via Calzaioli,
between the Piazza della Signoria and del Duomo. Fioravanti and Co., 5
Via Cerretani, change circular notes as well.
_Protestant Churches._--American Church, 17 Via dei Serragli; American
Episcopal, 11 Piazza del Carmine; English Episcopal, 5 Via del Maglio;
Scotch Church, 11 Lungarno Guicciardini.
_Cab Tariff._--The course, 1 fr.; night (between 7 P.M. to 6 A.M.),
1 fr. 30 c. Time, first half-hour, 1 f. 30 c.; every successive
half-hour, 70 c. Large trunks, 50 c.; portmanteau, 25 c. Omnibuses run
between the Piazza della Signoria and the old city gates. Fare, 10 c.;
Sundays, 15 c.
[Headnote: HINTS AND DIRECTIONS.]
Best maps of Italy and of the environs of Florence at the office of the
Topografico Militare, No. 8 Via Sapienza, near the Annunziata. Best
plans of the town published by Pineider, in the Piazza della Signoria,
and Bettini, No. 12 Via Tornabuoni. They also publish excellent little
guides to Florence, with complete catalogues of all the pictures and
statues in the various museums and churches. Pineider’s is published in
English likewise, and costs only a franc. They have a similar one for
Rome. For the investigation and study of art in Florence, see the works,
_Walks in Florence_ by Susan and Joanna Horner, 2 vols., Isbister and
Co., London, and volume 3 of _Hare’s Cities of Italy_.
[Map: Florence]
It is fatiguing, and unwise in those who are not students, to wander
into every part of Florence to gaze upon every picture and every figure
by a great master. The best are all in a few places, which, fortunately,
are near each other. For oil-paintings the combined galleries of the
Uffizi and Pitti are sufficient. In them the most important room is the
Tribuna (p. 238), containing the concentrated excellence of both
galleries in painting and antique sculpture. Besides what are in the
Tribuna, Raphael has eleven pictures in the Pitti, of which the most
famous is No. 266 in the Stanza dell’ Educazione di Giove (see p. 244).
Michael Angelo’s finest sculpture is in the new sacristy of San Lorenzo
(see p. 265), but the best collection of his works is in the _National
Museum_ (see p. 261). His David is in the _Accademia delle Belle Arti_
(see p. 272). In the National Museum is the best collection of sculpture
by great _Italian Artists_, such as Michael Angelo, G. Bologna, Luca and
Andrea della Robbia, Ghiberti; Brunelleschi, Donatello, Pisano,
Benvenuto Cellini, Rossi, Mino da Fiesole, and Verrochino, chiefly in
the first and sixth rooms of the first floor, and in the sixth room of
the second floor. Of the churches, the most important are the Duomo or
Cathedral, the Baptistery and Campanile, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo (but
particularly the Sagrestia Nuova and the Cappella dei Principi, attached
to St. Lorenzo), S. Maria Novella, and the Annunziata. They are open
from early in the morning till mid-day, and again from three till six.
The best specimens of fresco painting are in the churches and their
cloisters. Remarkable ancient frescoes in the Brancacci chapel of Del
Carmine (page 252). Best painting by Cimabue, a Madonna, executed in
1240, in the Rucellai chapel of S. Maria Novella (page 268). Best
frescoes by D. Ghirlandaio on the chancel or recess occupied by the high
altar in S. Maria Novella (page 268). Best frescoes of A. del Sarto in
the narthex of the Annunziata (page 269). Best frescoes of Giotto in the
first and second chapels of S. Croce (page 260). Of the palaces the best
are the Palazzo Vecchio (page 274), Palazzo Strozzi (page 275), and the
Palazzo Corsini (page 275). The best view of Florence is from the top of
the dome; the ascent is very easy. The pleasantest drive, with views, is
to the Piazza Michel Angiolo, by the Porta Romana and the Boulevards
Machiavelli, Galileo, and Michel Angiolo (page 249), studded with
handsome villas.
[Headnote: PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA. LOGGIA DELL’ ORCAGNA. NATIONAL
LIBRARY.]
At Florence the Arno is crossed by six bridges. One of these, the _Ponte
Vecchio_, differs from all the rest in having shops on each side. By
referring to the plan it will be observed that the road to the Pitti
Palace with the Boboli gardens, commences at the south end of this
bridge; while, at the northern end, commences the Via Por S. Maria,
leading to the +Piazza della Signoria+. From the north-west corner of
the Piazza della Signoria a fine broad street, the Via Calzaioli, leads
to the _Piazza del Duomo_; from the eastern corner the street called the
Borgo de’ Greci leads into the +Piazza Santa Croce+. It is of great
importance to understand the relative position of these three squares.
The chief feature of the Piazza della Signoria is the _Palazzo Vecchio_,
a fine specimen of the Florentine castles of the Middle Ages (page 274).
On either side of the main entrance are the terminal statues of Baucis
and Philemon, by Bandinelli, and in front the colossal group of Hercules
and Cacus, also by him. Opposite is the spacious Gothic arcade called
the +Loggia dell’ Orcagna+, from the name of the architect, or dei
Lanzi, from the name of the watchman who formerly guarded the building.
It was usual in the early period of the Republic to provide a space near
the government-house where the people could meet and take part in public
affairs; and for this purpose this open gallery was built opposite the
Palazzo Vecchio about the year 1376. Five steps, running along the
front, lead up to the platform, covered by a vaulted roof, supported on
four arches, resting on three columns terminating in beautiful capitals
of the Corinthian order. Two shaggy lions, in Cipollino marble, ornament
the entrance. The lion on the left is by F. Vacca, 17th cent.; the
other, on the right, as well as the six statues of Sabine priestesses,
along the inner wall, beautiful in attitude and drapery, are antiques,
and were brought from the Villa Medici in Rome in 1788. In front, under
each arch, stand three separate groups, by celebrated masters of the
16th cent. To the right is the Rape of the Sabines, by G. Bologna, in
1583. Originally this group was intended to represent Youth, Manhood,
and Old Age. To the left the statue in bronze of Perseus, with the head
of the sorceress Medusa, by B. Cellini. The posture is fine, and full of
power and animation, but the head and body of the Medusa are represented
streaming with blood with a revolting exaggeration. Also left, Judith
and Holofernes in bronze, by Donatello. Behind Perseus is the Rape of
Polixena, a marble group, by Pio Fedi, in 1864. In the centre is an
antique group supposed to represent Ajax dragging the body of
Patrocles--restored by S. Ricci. Next it is the marble group, by
G. Bologna, representing Hercules slaying the Centaur. In this Piazza is
also the Fountain of Neptune, by Ammanati (pupil of Bandinelli), 1571.
It is crowded with nymphs and satyrs, presided over by a statue of
Neptune (19½ feet high) in a car drawn by four horses. Adjoining is a
superb equestrian statue of Cosmo, by Bologna. The horse is admirable.
To the left of the statue is the Palazzo Uguccione (considered to have
been designed by Raphael), built in 1551. Adjoining the Loggia dei Lanzi
are the extensive buildings “degli Uffizi,” the great storehouse of art
treasures. On both sides of the Piazza, along the basement floor,
extends a wide and lofty colonnade, by Vasari (1560-74), ornamented with
24 statues of the most eminent Italians. On the same side as the Loggia
is the Post-Office (Reale Poste). On the opposite side, at the second
door from the end, is the entrance to the Galleria degli Uffizi, and six
doors farther down, the entrance to the _Biblioteca Nazionale_, with
about 250,000 vols. and 14,000 MSS. Open from 9 to 4. Any book may be
had for consultation in the reading-room by writing the name on a slip
of paper. The National Library was formed in 1864 by the union of the
Palatine Library collected by the Medici with the Magliabecchian Library
collected by Antonio Magliabechi in 1700. The arch at the S. end of the
colonnade leads to the river Arno and the Ponte Vecchio.
[Illustration: Plan of the Uffizi & Pitti Galleries]
[Headnote: UFFIZI GALLERY--VESTIBULES--CORRIDORS.]
+Galleria degli Uffizi.+
Open daily from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. each. Sundays, free. W.C.’s near the
portrait rooms; key with the keepers in the corner of the southern
gallery. In the top storey of the Uffizi buildings is the famous
collection of paintings, statues, and antiquities, united with a similar
collection in the Pitti Palace, by long galleries which cross the Arno
by the Ponte Vecchio, and extend along the street Via Guicciardini, by
the tops of the houses. The payment of a franc admits to both
collections, and the visitor may commence at either end; either from the
second door left hand, under the Uffizi colonnade, or from the door at
the N.E. corner of the Pitti Palace, next to the iron gate opening into
the Boboli gardens. But the easiest plan is to commence with the Uffizi,
and to descend towards the Pitti gallery by the stair at the top of the
western gallery. The only part of the way in which it is possible to go
wrong, is where (after having passed through the gallery of birds,
fishes, and plants, admirably drawn in 1695 by Bart. Legozzi, and a
small room with a few beautiful miniature paintings representing scenes
in the life of our Lord,) we come to a common stone staircase, which, to
enter the Pitti galleries, _ascend_, but to go out, descend. Downstairs,
outside, are the Piazza Pitti and the entrance to the Boboli gardens.
Entering the Uffizi by the second doorway under the colonnade, those who
wish to save themselves the fatigue of the 126 steps up to the galleries
may, for a franc, be carried up in a lift. In the first vestibule are
Roman statues and bas-reliefs representing festivals and sacrifices, and
busts of Lorenzo the Magnificent, Cosmo I., Francis I., and of others of
the Medici. Second vestibule, more Roman statuary, and an inimitable
Greek figure of a wild boar; the whole expressing admirably the growling
ire kindling in an irritated animal. Two exquisite wolf-dogs, bold,
spirited, and true to nature. The horse, said to have belonged to the
Niobes group, does not bear close examination.
We now enter the eastern corridor, 178 yards long, with the ceiling
painted in arabesques by Poccetti. Ranged on both sides are valuable
specimens of ancient statuary, and of Roman busts of emperors and
members of the imperial family, Augusti et Augustæ. On the walls is hung
a valuable and interesting series of pictures, beginning with the stiff
gilded Byzantine style of the infancy of the art, as No. 1, a Madonna by
Andrea Rico di Candia (1102), and advancing gradually by No. 2, St.
Cecilia, by Cimabue, 130 years later. A marked improvement in colour and
grouping is seen in No. 6, Christ in Gethsemane, by Giotto, pupil of
Cimabue. No. 17 is a beautiful triptych by Fra. Angelico; No. 24 a
Madonna by Credi; No. 29 a Battlepiece by P. Uccello; and No. 61 a
Crucifixion by Lippi.
[Headnote: TUSCAN SCHOOL--TRIBUNA.]
From the two long sides of the gallery large doors open into halls where
the pictures are arranged in schools; the first of these being, as is
shown on the plan, the +Scuola Toscana+, contained in three rooms, and
consisting of 165 paintings, by M. Albertinelli, A. and C. Allori, B.
Angelico, M. A. Anselmi. B. Bandinelli, Fra. Bartolommeo, G. Biliverti,
S. Botticelli, A. Bronzino. F. Cambi, J. Casentino, Cigoli, P. di
Cosimo, L. di Credi, F. Curradi. C. Dolci. Empoli. P. Francesca, M. A.
Franciabigio. A. L. Gentil, D. and R. Ghirlandaio, F. Giorgio, G. S.
Giovanni, B. Gozzoli, F. Granacci. Ignoto (unknown). Fra F. Lippi. O.
Marinari, Masaccio, T. Manzuoli, G. da Milano, F. Morandini. G. Pagani,
M. Pasti, S. Pieri, A. Pollaiolo, Pontormo. G. Ramacciotti, Razzi, Il
Rosso, G. F. Rustici. V. Salimbeni, C. Salviati, A. del Sarto,
L. Signorelli. Fr. Ubertini. R. Vanni, O. Vannini, G. Vasari, Dom.
Veneziano, A. Verrocchio, Leonardo da Vinci, Volterrano. F. Zucchero.
The earliest painters are in the inner room. Among the most remarkable
of them are, B. Angelico, 1294. A. Botticelli, 1286, a large picture,
and 1289 and 1299. Fra. F. Lippi, 1307. D. Ghirlandaio, 1295 and 1297.
G. da Milano, 1293, in ten compartments. A. Pollaiolo, 1301 and 1306; D.
Veneziano, 1305.
In the middle hall--Albertinelli, 1259. Fra. Bartolommeo, 1265;
Bronzini, 1271. Cigoli, 1276 his best work. F. Lippi, 1257 and 1268;
Razzi, 1279, formerly a banner carried in processions. Leonardo da
Vinci, 1252, an unfinished picture.
First hall--Albertinelli, 1259; Allori, 1165; Biliverti, 1261, one of
his best works; Bronzino, 1271; Cigoli, 1276; Credi, 1168; Leonardo da
Vinci, 1157 and 1159 remarkably fine.
[Headnote: THE TRIBUNA.]
Next to the rooms occupied by the Scuola Toscana is the +Tribuna+,
a plain 8-sided hall, 30 ft. in diameter, designed by B. Buondelmonti,
and painted and decorated by Poccetti. In this room are preserved five
of the most famous antique statues in the world, and forty-two of the
choicest pictures in the collection by Alfani, F. Barocci, Fra.
Bartolommeo, A. and L. Caracci, Correggio, Domenichino, A. Durer,
Guercino, L. Kranach, F. Francia, Lanfranco, B. Luini, Mantegna, Michael
Angelo, L. d’Olanda, P. Perugino, Raphael, G. Reni, Giulio Romano,
Rubens, A. del Sarto, Schidone, Spagnoletti, Tiziano, Van Dyck,
P. Veronese, and D. Volterra. Facing the door is the +Venus de Medici+,
4 ft. 11 inches high, supposed to be by Cleomenes, son of Apollodorus,
which, along with the statue of the Apollino, were brought from the
Villa Hadrian, in Tivoli, during the reign of Cosmo III. The group of
the Wrestlers, exquisitely finished, wants animation. The Dancing Fawn,
attributed to Praxiteles, is one of the most exquisite works of art that
remains of the ancients. The head and arms were restored by Michael
Angelo. In the _Knife-Grinder_, the bony square form, the squalid
countenance, and the short neglected hair, express admirably the
character of a slave, still more plainly written on his coarse hard
hands and wrinkled brow. Among the paintings, six are by Raphael--all
gems. 1120 Portrait of a Lady, painted when he was 20; 1123 the
Fornarina, every hue as perfect as if transferred to the canvas by the
sun--the expression is pert; 1125, the Madonna del Pozzo (Well),
attributed also to Franciabigio, beautifully finished; 1127 St. John in
the Desert, colouring tawny, but admirable light and shade; 1129 the
Madonna del Cardellino (nightingale), one of Raphael’s best works,
painted when he was 22; 1131 Portrait of Julius II., considered one of
the finest portraits in the world. In the Hall of Saturn, in the Pitti
Gallery, and in the National Gallery of London, are likewise portraits
by Raphael of this impetuous and warlike pope. 1139 Holy Family by
Michael Angelo. This picture, one of the few by him in oil, exhibits
powerful drawing with dexterous execution. 1112 the Madonna between St.
Francis and St. John, called also the Madonna delle Arpie, by Andrea del
Sarto--rich but subdued colouring, very pleasing to the eye. 1117 the
famous recumbent Venus, by Tiziano. 1118 the Rest in Egypt, by
Correggio--wonderful colouring.
[Headnote: THE ITALIAN SCHOOL.]
Six rooms follow in succession from the south side of the +Tribuna+,
and contain respectively the Italian, Dutch, Flemish-German, and French
schools, and the collection of gems. +The Italian+, or more properly the
Lombardo-Venetian Schools contains 115 paintings by Albano, D. Ambrogi.
Baroccio, J. Bassano, G. Bonatti. Cagnacci, Canaletto, A. Caracci, G. da
Carpi, G. Carpioni, B. Castiglione, M. Cerquozzi, C. Cignani, Correggio.
Domenichino, B. and D. Dossi. C. Ferri, D. Feti, L. Fontana. Garofalo,
L. Giordano, Giorgione, F. Granacci, J. Guercino. J. Ligozzi, B. Luini.
A. Magnasco, A. Mantegna, L. Massari, L. Mazzolini, Fr. Minzocchi,
Moretto da Brescia. Palma (both), G. P. Pannini, Parmigianino, P. Piola,
C. Procaccino, S. Pulzone. G. Reni, P. Reschi, S. Rosa. E. Savonazzi, J.
Scarsellino, B. Schidone, F. Solimena. A. Tiarini, Tinelli, Tintoretto,
Tiziano, A. Turchi. G. Vanvitelli, P. Veronese, A. Vicentino.
B. Zelotti. S. Zugo. Of those, the most noteworthy are Guido Reni, 998
Madonna; Parmigianino, 1006 Madonna, and 1010 Holy Family; Correggio,
1016 Child’s Head; A. Mantegna, 1025 Virgin, with Child in her lap;
Caravaggio, 1031 Medusa.
[Headnote: THE DUTCH, FLEMISH, AND FRENCH SCHOOLS.]
_The Dutch School_ contains 135 paintings, of which the best are by
Berkeyden, Borch, G. Dow, Galle, Hemskerch, Metsu, Mieris, Netscher,
O. Paulyn, Poelemburg; Rembrandt, 922 an Interior, with Holy Family.
R. Ruysch, Ruysdael, Schalken, Stingelandt, Van Aelst, Van der Heyden,
Van der Werf, Van Kessel.
_The Flemish and German Schools_, in two rooms, consist of 157
paintings, of which the best are by Cranach 822, Catherine Bore, wife of
Luther; 838 Luther; 845 John and Frederick, Electors of Saxony; 847
Luther and Melancthon. C. Gellé or Claude Lorraine, 848 Landscape,
considered the gem of this department. G. Dow, 786 Schoolmaster.
A. Durer, 766 His father; 777 St. James; 851 Madonna. Holbein, 765
Richard Southwell. 784 Zwinglius, and 799 Sir Thomas More. Quintin
Matsys, 779 St. Jerome. Rubens, 812 Venus and Adonis, but his best
pictures are in the Sala della Niobe. Susterman, 699 and 709 Portraits.
Teniers, 742 a Chemist, and 826 a Landscape. Van Dyck, 783 a Madonna.
_The French School_ is represented by 47 paintings, of which the most
noteworthy are by Fabres, 679 the poet Alfieri, and 689 the Countess of
Albany, wife of, firstly, Prince Charles, the young Pretender, and
afterwards of Alfieri. Gagneraux, 690 A Lion-hunt. Mignard, 670 Madame
do Grignan and her Mother, and 688, Madame de Sévigné. N. Poussin, 680
Theseus before his Mother. Rigaud, 684 Portrait of Bossuet.
[Headnote: ROOM OF GEMS.]
_The Room of Gems_ has six upright glass cases, in which are exposed to
view statuettes, vases, cups, caskets, and a variety of ornaments made
of lapis lazuli, rock crystal, jasper, agate, aqua marina, turquoise,
and gold. In the second glass case is the most valuable article,
a casket of rock crystal, with twenty-four events from the life of
Christ engraved upon it by Valerio Belli, by order of Clement VII., who
presented it to Catherine of Medicis as a wedding present. The Room of
Gems opens into the south or connecting corridor, painted in fresco by
Ulivelli, Chiavistelli, and Tonelli. The most remarkable sculptures here
are 129 reliefs on a sarcophagus, representing the Fall of Phaeton into
the Eridanus (the river Po), with the Transformation of his Sisters into
Poplar Trees; and the races in the Circus Maximus of Rome; 137 Round
altar with reliefs representing the Sacrifice of Iphigenia; 145 Youth
extracting a Thorn, a replica of the more famous statue in the Vatican;
145 Venus Anadyomene; 146 Nymph. (The key of the W.Cs. is kept in the
little office in the corner of this corridor).
[Headnote: THE VENETIAN SCHOOL--PORTRAITS OF ARTISTS.]
+West Corridor+ and rooms. Rows of Roman statues stand on both sides,
and the walls are covered with Italian paintings of a much later date
than those in the eastern corridor. The first two rooms contain the
+Venetian School+, represented by 82 paintings, and the next four
contain portraits of artists, nearly all by themselves. The room behind
the Venetian school contains a collection of 80,000 medals and coins.
The 82 pictures which illustrate the _Venetian School_ are by
twenty-five great masters, T. Bassano, G. Bellini, P. Bordone, C.
Caliari, D. Campagnole, Giorgione, L. Lotto, A. Maganza, Moretto,
Morone, G. Muziano, Padovanino, Palma (both), Pini, Porta, Savoldo,
A. Schiavone, Tinelli, Tintoretto, Tiziano, P. Veneziano, C. Veronese,
P. Veronese, A. Vicentino. At the head of all stands the immortal
Tiziano. His finest portraits are those of the Duchess (599) and of the
Duke of Urbino (605), Francesco della Rovere I.; of “Flora,” called his
Mistress (626); of Giovanni, father of Cosimo I. (614); and of Sansovino
(596). Also by Tiziano, 633, Holy Family; 609 Battle between the
Venetians and Austrians; 648 Catherine Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus; and 618
Sketch of Virgin and Child for his celebrated picture in Sta. Maria at
Venice. P. Veronese, 589 Martyrdom of St. Justina; 596 Esther before
Ahasuerus, and 636 The Crucifixion. Tintoretto, 617 The Marriage in
Cana. In the next two rooms are +Portraits of Artists+ of all nations,
from the 15th cent. to the present time. In a niche is the statue (338)
of Card. Leopoldo de’ Medici, and in the middle of the hall the
celebrated +Medici Vase+ (339), with the sacrifice of Iphigenia in
relief, by a Greek sculptor. Cardinal Leopold, brother of the Grand Duke
Ferdinand, founded this collection in the 17th cent., and left it with
200 portraits; now it has about 500. Among the most remarkable are--288
Raphael, by himself, in 1506, when 23; 225 Van Dyck; 228 Rubens; 232
Holbein; 292 Leonardo da Vinci; 384 Tiziano; 378 Tintoretto; 374, 384,
and 459 Annibale Caracci; 368 Antonio Caracci; 403 Guido Reni; 546 Sir
Joshua Reynolds; 465 Thomas Murray. The door adjoining the hall of
portraits of painters opens into the long series of corridors and stairs
leading to the Pitti Gallery. See page 243. +Sala delle
Iscrizione.+--The walls are covered with Greek and Roman inscriptions,
arranged in 12 divisions according to the subject. In this room are also
some very interesting ancient sculptures. Among others (315) the Torso
of a Faun. _Cabinet of the Hermaphrodite._--The most important piece of
sculpture here is 306 Hermaphrodite reclining on a lion’s skin,
a valuable Greek work; 318 Bust of Alexander the Great in suffering.
_Cabinet of Cameos._--A very precious collection of ancient and modern
cameos, statuettes, and enamels, including those presented by Sir
William Currie in 1863.
[Headnote: THE HALL OF NIOBE.]
_Sala del Baroccio._--Against the walls are beautiful tables in
pietradura or Florentine mosaic, and one in the centre of the room by
Jacopo Antella, in 1615, from designs of Ligozzi. This hall contains 172
pictures, chiefly by Italian artists. The great picture in size and
merit is 169, by Baroccio, The Madonna del Popolo or “The Virgin
interceding with her Son;” 163 is Susterman’s portrait of Galileo; 191,
by Sassoferrato, a Madonna; 207, one of Carlo Dolce’s best works, “St.
Galla Placida.” +Sala della Niobe.+--The hall of Niobe was built in
1774, by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo, for the famous statues supposed
to have been by Scopas or Praxiteles, and found near the Porta S. Paolo
at Rome in 1583, representing Niobe and her children struck by
thunderbolts from Apollo. They constitute one of the finest and most
powerful groups in the world, but stationed as they are round the cold,
flat, white wall of an oblong saloon, each on his separate pedestal, the
illusion of design and composition is not only destroyed but individual
criticism invited, a test all of them cannot bear. It is believed that
originally they formed a group on the pediment of a temple. Niobe is
rather large, nearly nine heads high, but the child she protects is
without a fault in form. This group is of one piece of marble. All the
others are in single figures. But the soul and source of all that is
interesting in these statues is the wonderful figure of the wounded and
dying youth, represented lying on his back, his legs just crossing each
other, the left hand reclining on his breast, and his right arm slightly
raised. As a statue, it commands the highest admiration, and as a chaste
and powerful picture of death, the keenest sympathy. Behind the statue
of Niobe is a very large picture by Rubens--Henri IV. at the battle of
Ivry--a performance of wonderful spirit, but unfinished; and opposite
it, 147 The entry of Henri IV. into Paris; 144 Van Dyck, a portrait; 152
Honthorst, Fortune-teller.
[Headnote: THE HALL OF BRONZES.]
_Sala dei Bronzi._--In two rooms; among these ancient bronzes the most
remarkable are the bronze heads of Sophocles and Homer, and the Torso
428 found near Leghorn--a torso is the trunk of a statue that has lost
the arms and legs; 426 The head of a horse; 424 The figure of a youth,
5 feet in height, called the Idolino, found at Pesaro in 1530. The
pedestal is attributed to Ghiberti. A tablet containing a list of the
Roman Decurions, dated A.D. 223. _Galleria Feroni._--In this room are
arranged the pictures bequeathed by the Marchese Leopoldo Feroni, of
which the best are, an Angel with a Lily, by C. Dolce; A Butcher’s Shop,
by Teniers the younger; and a Holy Family, by B. Schidone. Outside, in
the corridor, is 131, Portrait of Pasquali Paoli, the Corsican patriot,
by Richard Cosway; and 110 and 113, Landscapes, by Agostina Tassi, the
master of Claude Lorraine.
[Headnote: THE WAY FROM THE UFFIZI TO THE PITTI GALLERIES.]
THE CONNECTING GALLERIES.
Between the Uffizi and Pitti Galleries is a series of passages and
stairs finished in 1564, and opened on the occasion of the marriage of
Francesco de’ Medici with Joanna of Austria, of whom the statue of
“Abundance” in the Boboli gardens is supposed to be a likeness. The
walls of the stairs and corridors on the Uffizi side of the Arno are
covered with a rich and valuable collection of engravings, constituting
a complete history of the art from the 15th cent. to the present time.
The corridor on the +Ponte Vecchio+ crossing the Arno is occupied with a
glorious collection of drawings by the great masters. The first part of
the corridor on the south side of the Arno contains numerous portraits
of the Medicean family, and then follows (on the long passage behind the
Via Guicciardini) a vast collection of tapestry, executed in the 16th
and 17th cent. in Paris and Florence. The best are those representing
the festivities at the marriages of Henry II. with Catherine de’ Medici,
and of Henry IV. with Maria de’ Medici, executed in 1560 after designs
by Orlay. From the tapestry gallery a short stair ascends to a room hung
with pictures painted in chiaroscuro, or in one colour, by several of
the old painters. From this another short stair leads to the long narrow
gallery on the wall of the Boboli gardens. This gallery is hung with
water-colour drawings, by Bartolommeo Ligozzi, in 1695, representing
with wonderful truthfulness, figures of birds, fishes, and plants. To
these illustrations of natural history succeeds a series of miniature
paintings of scenes in the life of our Lord. Now we come to the common
stone stair leading upwards to the Pitti Gallery, and downwards to the
door fronting the Piazza Pitti, and next the gate leading into the
Boboli gardens. At the top of the stair is a large vestibule, with a
window looking into the gardens. The names of the Sale and Stanze (Halls
and Rooms) are on the catalogues. Each room is provided with two of
these catalogues, one in Italian and another in French. The halls are
painted in fresco, and adorned with statuary and rich tables of
Florentine mosaic.
THE PITTI GALLERY.
The vestibule opens into the _Sala dell’ Illiado_, painted by Sabatelli
in 1837, and having in the centre a statue of “Charity,” by Bartolini.
Nos. 191 and 225 are Assumptions, by Andrea del Sarto, and 184 is his
Portrait, painted by himself. No. 185, a Concert, is a remarkable
picture, and one of the few existing by Giorgione. Tiziano is
represented by some of his best portraits:--No. 200, Philip II. of
Spain; 201, Cardinal Ippolito de’ Medici; 215, Portrait; and 228, the
Head of Jesus. 208, the Madonna del Trono, by Fra. Bartolommeo. 219, P.
Perugino, Adoration of the Child Jesus. 188, S. Rosa, his own Portrait;
and 218, Warrior. 190, Sustermans, a Prince of Denmark. 224, Rod.
Ghirlandaio, Portrait of a Lady. 230, Parmigianino, the Madonna col
lungo Collo. 235, Rubens, Holy Family. 286, Bassano, House of Martha.
[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--HALLS OF SATURN, JUPITER, MARS, APOLLO.]
_Sala di Saturno._--The frescoes on the ceiling are by Pietro da
Cortona. The gems of this room may be considered:--151, Portrait of Pope
Julius II.; and 165, the Madonna del Baldacchino, by Raphael. The others
by Raphael are the Portraits of (158) Card. Bibbiena; and of (171)
Inghirami and (174) the Vision of Ezekiel. 150, Charles I. of England
and Henrietta Maria, by Van Dyck. 164, a Deposition, by Perugino.
_Sala di Giove._--Ceiling painted by P. da Cortona. In the centre of the
room statue of “Victory,” by Consani, and at the sides five Tables in
Florentine mosaic. The most remarkable picture in this, the Saloon of
Jupiter, is 113, the Three Parcæ, or Fates, by Michael Angelo. Then
follow Nos. 118, Andrea del Sarto and Wife; and 124, an Annunciation, by
A. del Sarto. No. 133 is a Battle-piece, by Salvator Rosa. In the lower
corner, right hand, is his own Portrait, with the initials S. A. R. O.
No. 140, an exquisitely finished Portrait of G. Benci, by Leonardo da
Vinci. 139, Holy Family, by Rubens.
_Sala di Marte._--Frescoes and decorations by Cortona. Raphael, Rubens,
Van Dyck, and A. del Sarto, have in this room some beautiful paintings.
The gem is (79) the Madonna della Sedia (chair), by Raphael. 94 is a
Holy Family, also by him--called the “Impannata” or cloth window. No.
81, Holy Family; and 87 and 88, Story of Joseph, by A. del Sarto. 82,
Card. Bentivoglio, by Van Dyck. No. 86, Peace and War, by Rubens. 96,
Judith, by C. Allori.
_Sala di Prometeo._--The Mosaic Table in this room, by Giorgi, occupied
him fourteen years. 338, Madonna, by Fra. Filippo Lippi.
_Sala di Apollo._--Raphael has three portraits in this room:--59 and 61,
M. and A. Doni; and 63, Leo X. Tiziano has some fine works:--No. 67,
a Magdalene, shows his power in colour; and 54, Aretino, the poet, is
one of his best portraits. 40, Madonna, by Murillo. 58, by A. del Sarto,
Descent from the Cross, one of his best works. 64, the same subject
admirably treated by Fra. Bartolommeo.
_Sala di Venere_ (Venus).--Painted by Cortona. Nos. 4 and 15 are two
most charming Sea-pieces, by Salvator Rosa. No. 18, La Bella Donna, by
Tiziano. No. 27, Jesus appearing to Peter, by L. Cardi (Il Cigoli).
_Galleria Poccetti._--Painted by Poccetti. Bust of Napoleon by Canova.
Small corridor, or Corridor of the Columns, with two columns in oriental
alabaster, and the walls hung with Florentine mosaics, and admirably
executed miniatures in water-colours and oil, collected by Card.
Leopold. No. 4, In glass cases are displayed valuable articles in ivory,
amber, rock-crystal, and precious stones.
_Stanza della Giustizia._--Painted by Fedi. The beautiful ebony cabinet
was used by Card. Leopold. The most interesting picture in this room is
408, Portrait of Oliver Cromwell, painted from life by Sir Peter Lely,
by request of Ferdinand II. of Tuscany.
[Headnote: PITTI GALLERY--ROOMS OF FLORA, ULLISSE, GIOVE.]
_Stanza di Flora._--In the centre is the famous Venus by Canova, called
also the Venus Italica from its having been intended to replace the
Venus de’ Medici, when that still more famous statue was carried off to
Paris, where it remained fifteen years. No. 415, Ferdinand II., by
Sustermans. 416 and 421, Landscapes, by Poussin. 423, Adoration of the
Shepherds, by Tiziano.
_Stanza dei Putti._--Painted by Morini. No. 470 is a large picture by
Sal. Rosa, called the Philosopher’s Forest--Diogenes throwing away his
drinking-cup. No. 465, Landscape, by Ruysdael.
_Stanza d’ Ullisse._--Painted by Martellini. No. 324 is a fine portrait
by Rubens of the favourite of James I., George Villiers, Duke of
Buckingham, assassinated by Felton in 1628. No. 289, Madonna, by
Ligozzi. 297, Paul III., by Bordone. 306 and 312, Landscapes, by Sal.
Rosa.
_Stanza del Bagno._--This, the bath-room, is tastefully fitted up with a
mosaic pavement. Four handsome columns in verd antique, and four marble
statues, by Insom and Bongiovanni.
_Stanza dell’ educazione di Giove._--Painted by Catani. 266, the Madonna
del Granduca, by Raphael, is one of the finest pictures in the Pitti
Gallery. 245 is attributed to Raphael. 243, Philip IV. of Spain by
Velasquez. 248, a “Descent” by Tintoretto. 256, Holy Family by Fra.
Bartolommeo.
_Stanza della Stufa._--The frescoes on the walls, representing the Four
Ages of Man, are by Cortona, from sketches by the nephew of Michael
Angelo. The frescoes on the ceiling, representing the Virtues, are by
Rosselli, in 1622. Among the treasures of this room are four antique
statues in niches, a column of green porphyry, bearing a porcelain vase
with a likeness of Napoleon I., and two justly celebrated bronze statues
of Cain and Abel, modelled by Dupré of Siena, and cast by Papi in 1849.
THE BOBOLI GARDENS.
Now either return to the Uffizi by the very long galleries or descend to
the foot of the stairs, and when outside, turn to the left and pass
through the gate leading into the Boboli Gardens, open on Thursdays and
feast-days. Permission to enter on other days is easily obtained at the
office of the Minestero della Casa, under the south corner of the
corridor. The gardens are laid out in a stiff style. Clumps of oleanders
and oleasters among ilexes, laurels, pines, yews, and cypresses,
encircled by tall myrtle hedges, make the grounds in many parts more
like a labyrinth than a garden. Near the entrance is an artificial
grotto, with, in front, a group by V. Rossi, and a Venus by G. Bologna;
and in the four corners unfinished statues by Michael Angelo, intended
for the monument of Julius II. at Rome, and presented to Cosmo I. by
L. Buonarotti. Opposite the palace is the Amphitheatre; within the
centre a granite obelisk and a large granite basin from Egypt, but
brought to Florence from Rome. Beyond the palace, near the Porta Romana,
is the Piazzale del Lago, with groups in marble by G. Bologna. In the
flower-garden “del Cavaliere,” are two more fountains, with monkeys in
bronze, by the same artist, and a small villa, from the top of which
there is a fine view (entrance 25c.) On the highest part of the gardens,
facing the palace, is a colossal statue of Dovizia (Abundance),
commenced by Bologna, and finished by his pupil Dacca.
[Headnote: PITTI PALACE.]
THE PITTI PALACE was begun by Luca Pitti, a Florentine merchant, in
1436, from designs by Brunelleschi. In 1549 the still unfinished
building was purchased by the Medici, who advanced it considerably, but
not till quite recently was this vast pile finished. The façade is 659
feet in length, 148 feet in height, and the total surface occupied by
the building 35,231 yards. Bart. Ammanati added the wings, and enclosed
the beautiful court opposite the middle entrance with Doric, Ionic, and
Corinthian columns, and placed at the extremity the pretty grotto
covered in with Roman mosaic, supported on 16 columns, and ornamented
with statues in marble and porphyry, and small trees and satyrs in
bronze. To the right of the court is the Royal Chapel. Above the altar
is an ivory crucifix by G. Bologna. At the end of the portico, to the
left, a door opens into the court, in which is the entrance into the
room containing the splendid _Collection of Plate_ by Benvenuto Cellini
and Maso Finiguerra, and ivories by Bologna and Donatello. Zumbo, the
famous artist in wax, has likewise some of his works here. The state
apartments are sumptuously furnished.
[Headnote: TRIBUNA GALILEO--MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. ANATOMICAL
PREPARATIONS IN WAX.]
Nearly opposite the Pitti palace, at No. 16 Via Guicciardini, is the
house in which Machiavelli lived and died in 1527. A little farther up
the Via Romana, in the house No. 19, is the
MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE,
in the second floor, and the Museo Galileo in the first floor. Both open
on Thursdays and Saturdays, from 10 to nearly 3. In the vestibule is an
old terrestrial globe, black with age, 3 feet in diameter, probably by
Ignazio Dante, a famous astronomer, brought to Florence by Cosmo I. He
died in 1586. Upstairs is the Museo, or Tribuna di Galileo.[*]
Explanatory catalogues in Italian and French are on the table. The
statue of him is by A. Costoli. In the niche to the right are his
telescopes, of which the lower one was constructed by himself, and by
which he discovered the satellites of Jupiter. In the niche on the left
are his compasses and magnet. The other philosophical instruments
belonged to the Accademia del Cimento, instituted in 1657 and dissolved
in 1667. It held its meetings in the palace of Prince Leopold de’
Medici. All around are beautiful frescoes, illustrating scenes in the
life of Galileo. Among the relics is the forefinger of Galileo, taken
from the body when it was removed to its present resting-place in the
church of Santa Croce. In the second storey is the excellent and
comprehensive Museum of Natural History. The collections are admirably
arranged, and in good condition. The botanical department contains the
herbariums of Andrea Cesalpino, which he is supposed to have collected
about the year 1563; of P. A. Micheli, collected about the year 1725; of
Central Italy, by Parlatore, commenced in 1842; of Labillardière, who
accompanied La Perouse in his expedition to New Holland; of
R. Desfontaines, the master of De Candolle; and of the Englishman, P. B.
Webb, who bequeathed his herbarium to this museum. But the most
wonderful objects in the museum are the anatomical preparations in wax,
chiefly by Clemente Sasini and his assistants, under the direction of
Tommaso Bonicoli, 1775 to 1791. Like the great works of the great
painters, they are executed with the most minute care and truthfulness
to nature, whether it be the magnified anatomy of the cuttle-fish or of
the silkworm, or the life-like representation of the most delicate
organs of the human body. They are contained in twelve rooms, entered
from the shell department, by the door lettered “Ittiologia,” opening
into the Zootomia.
[Footnote *: The word tribune is used in Florence to designate any
large niche. But the real meaning of the word “Tribuna” is the
semicircular cavity at the extremity of a Roman basilica, where
the judges sat. In the early ages of the church some of these
buildings were given to the Christians for public worship, who
still retained their secular name, and worshipped in them without
consecration.]
THE HOUSE OF GALILEO,
at the head of the Via Romana, is the Porta Romana, the city gate by
which, in 1536, Charles V. and Pope Leo X. entered Florence. An omnibus
runs between it and the Piazza del Duomo. At the outer side there is a
cab stand, which is likewise the starting-place of the omnibus for the
Certosa (see page 250). Immediately outside the Porta commence three
broad roads--the lowest is called the Via Senese and leads to the
Certosa; the centre one, bordered with tall cypresses, is the Via del
Poggio Imperiale; while to the left is the Viale Machiaveli, the first
of a series of magnificent boulevards (viali) leading to that noble
terrace the Piazza Michelangiolo. Let us first ascend the Via del Poggio
to the Royal Villa, formerly the property of the Medicis, now the
Instituto della Annunziata, a boarding-school for girls. From it ascend
by the Via del Pian di Giullari, and when at the top of it take the road
to the right leading directly to the village of Arcetri, containing the
house in which Galileo spent the last years of his life, and in which
when blind, and 74 years of age, he was visited by Milton. Galileo was
born in 1564, at Pisa, and died in 1642. The house, a plain building, is
indicated by a bust and tablet on the wall towards the street. The steep
little road to the left leads up to the farmhouse in which is the Tower
(Torre del Gallo) from which Galileo made his astronomical observations.
It contains several relics of the great astronomer--a telescope, table,
and chairs, a bust of him taken after death (il piu antico che si
conosca), a pen-and-ink sketch of him on marble by Salvatelli, a smaller
portrait of him by P. Leoni, 1624. From the farmhouse a steep narrow
road leads down to the Boulevards between the Piazza Michelangiolo and
the Porta Romana.
[Headnote: SAN MINIATO.]
THE PIAZZALE MICHELANGIOLO.
There is no place about Florence which affords such an agreeable walk or
drive as to the Piazzale Michelangiolo and the church of S. Miniato.
They are situated on a hill on the left bank of the Arno, two bridges
higher up the river than the Uffizi, and are distinctly seen from the
Lung’ Arno. The nearest way to approach them on foot is, having crossed
the Ponte alle Grazie (the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio), walk
up the left bank of the Arno, passing the Piazza containing the fine
marble monument to Prince Nicholas Demidoff, by L. Bartolini, in 1835,
and continue the walk up the river till arrival at a square tower in the
Piazza della Molina, whence commence the ascent by the stairs and road
the Viale dei Colli. Or approach it from the Porta Romana by the fine
avenues the Viali Machiavelli and Galileo, bordered by trees and
handsome villas, disclosing as they wind round the steep sides of the
hills a succession of ever-varying views. The Piazzale Michelangiolo is
a splendid terrace, 165 feet above the Arno, commanding a grand
prospect, and adorned with five statues in bronze, copies by C. Papi of
Michael Angelo’s famous works. To the right is the Viale Michelangiolo,
the carriage road leading down to the Barriera San Niccolo, opposite the
suspension-bridge (Ponte Sospenso). Above the Piazzale, by the convent
church of San Salvatore del Monte (built in 1504 by Cronaca), is the
+Basilica of San Miniato+, one of the earliest (1013) as well as one of
the most perfect structures in the Byzantine style. Internally it is 165
feet long by 70 wide, and is divided longitudinally into aisles by
pillars of classical design. The façade is faulty. The tower was erected
in 1519. The floor of the nave is considerably under the level of the
chancel, which terminates in a semi-dome, covered with mosaics executed
in 1247, and of the same kind as those of St. Mark’s at Venice. Behind
the altar are five small windows of thin slabs of Pavonazzo marble.
Between the stairs leading up to the chancel is the chapel constructed
in 1448 by Michelozzi. Here lie the remains of Gualberto, the founder of
the church and of the order of Vallombrosa. In the centre of the north
aisle is the chapel of Cardinal Ximenes (died 1459). The monument is by
B. Rossellino, and the beautiful terra-cottas on the ceiling by Luca
della Robbia. On the south side is the Sacristy (built in 1387),
exquisitely painted in fresco by Spinello Aretino, representing scenes
in the life of St. Benedict. In the centre of the nave is a curious
piece of Byzantine pavement, executed in 1207. Below the chancel is the
crypt, supported on 38 marble columns, several being prolongations of
those above. Under the altar is the tomb of San Miniato. From the
terraces of the adjoining cemetery there are splendid views of Florence
and of the valley of the Arno.
THE CERTOSA.
From outside the Porta Romano a small diligence starts every hour, at
the hour, passing by the Carthusian Monastery of the Certosa, 3¼ miles
distant; fare, ½ fr. Passengers alight at the great wall enclosing the
grounds at the commencement of the small by-road to the right, leading
up to the top of the circular hill on which the convent is picturesquely
situated. It was erected by Niccolo Acciaiola in the 14th cent., and is
now the property of the State, who retain in it some twenty-three friars
of the order to take charge of the church, chapels, and buildings. At
the entrance-gate is the pharmacy, where the liqueurs made in the
convent can be bought and tasted. Their Chartreuse cordial is not equal
to that made in France, but the Alkermis is of good quality. Fee to see
the convent, ½ fr. At the top of the stair leading up to the church is a
fresco by Empoli. The church, paved with marble in the cinque-cento
style, has some good stalls (1590), and over the marble altar a fresco
by Poccetti. Right hand, chapel with frescoes by Masari on the walls,
and on roof by Poccetti and his school. From S. aisle pass to chapel of
S. Maria, in the shape of a Greek cross. Here is a curious Trinity of
the Giotti school. Descend to the Cappella di Tobia, with the mausoleum
of the founder, by Orcagna (1360), and three monumental slabs over the
tombs of his father, sister, and son. Next, a narrow cloister with eight
small windows, with vignette paintings by Udine, 1560; Cappella del
Capitolo, having for the reredos a Crucifixion by Albertinelli, and in
the centre of floor the mausoleum of Buonafede by Stogallo, 1545; then
the Camere di Pio Sesto, his sitting-room, and bedroom. He was a
prisoner here nine months. Beautiful views are obtained from various
parts. In passing through the villages women may be seen plaiting
straw--a standard occupation in Tuscany.
[Headnote: BELLO SGUARDO. MONTE OLIVETO.]
+Views.+--From the Porta Romana commences also the road to the Bello
Sguardo and to Monte Oliveto (about a mile distant), both commanding
splendid views of the city, of the valley of the Arno, and of the
surrounding mountains. Immediately outside the Porta turn to the right,
and walk by the side of the city wall by the Via Petrarcha till the
second road on the left, the Via de Casone, by which continue to ascend
till a road is reached on the left lettered, Via di Bello Sguardo. By it
ascend to the next on the left, the Via dell’ Ombrellino, where at the
house No. 1 ring the bell. The view is from the pavilion of this house;
fee, ½ fr. To go from this to Monte Oliveto descend to the Via di Bello
Sguardo, and from a house with a high railing turn to the right by the
“Via di Monte Oliveto Per S. Vito,” and descend to a large gateway and
house on the left hand. At this house ask for the key of the Monte
Oliveto, then walk forward past the old convent, now a military
hospital, to the top of the knoll crowned with cypresses, and behold the
view. Now descend by the Via di Monte Oliveto, which, at the foot of the
hill, enters the Via Pisana opposite house No. 82, near the Porta
S. Frediano, whence an omnibus runs to the Piazza della Signoria. If
preferred, the tour may be commenced at this end, taking the omnibus
from the Piazza to the Porta.
[Headnote: SANTO SPIRITO. SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE.]
SANTO SPIRITO AND SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE.--By referring to the plan it
will be observed that a very short way north from the Pitti Palace are
two churches, the Santa Maria del Carmine, containing the famous
frescoes of Masaccio (b. 1402, d. 1429), and of Filippino Lippi (b.
1457, d. 1504), and the church of Santo Spirito, in which Luther
preached as an Augustinian friar when on his way to Rome. The present
church of the S. Spirito was commenced in 1446 by F. Brunelleschi,
destroyed by fire in 1470, and rebuilt in 1488 according to
Brunelleschi’s design. The belfry, which is of admirable proportions,
was erected by B. d’Agnolo. The church is 315 ft. long, and 191 at the
transept, and is placed from south to north. The arches of the aisles
rest on 47 pilasters and 35 columns, each of one piece of pietra-serena,
brought from the quarries of Fiesole. Around the church are 38
semicircular chapels, ornamented with pictures by Alessandro Allori,
Fra. Bartolommeo, Sandro Botticelli, Franciabigio, Raff. del Garbio,
Rodolfo Ghirlandaio, Giotto, Filippino Lippi, Ant. Pollaiolo, and Cosimo
Rosselli. Among the best of these are, in the choir, 12th chapel from
entrance to church, a Madonna by Lippi. In left transept, 19th and 20th
chapels, Martyrs, and The Adulteress, by Allori. 22d chapel, an
Annunciation, by Botticelli. Among the sculptures the most remarkable
work is in the 2d chapel, right hand on entering, a Pieta, by Baccio
Bigio, a copy of the group by Michael Angelo in St. Peter’s, Rome. The
proportions of the dead body of our Lord are admirable, and the ribs,
loins, and pectoral muscles skilfully marked. Before the choir is a
screen erected in 1599, composed of bronze and rich marbles, and
although rather out of place, full of beautiful details. The high altar,
under a ciborium or canopy supported on four columns of rare porphyry,
is decorated with statuettes and candelabra by Giovanni Caccini. A door
in the west aisle opens into the sacristy, the joint work of San Gallo
and Pollaiolo, by whom it was finished in 1490. In the sacristy a door
to the right opens into the cloisters, by A. Parigi, adorned with
frescoes by Perugino, Ulivelli, and Cascetti.
[Headnote: BRANCACCI CHAPEL.]
The church +Del Carmine+ was erected in 1475, destroyed by fire in 1771,
and rebuilt in 1788 by Ruggieri and Mannaconi. Among the parts which
escaped destruction in 1771 was the Brancacci chapel, at the end of the
western or right transept, covered with valuable frescoes, in 12
compartments, by Masaccio, Lippi, and Masolino da Panicale. The four
principal subjects are (left wall) “Christ directing St. Peter to take a
coin from a fish’s mouth to pay the tribute,” by Masaccio, whose
portrait is given in the last apostle to the right; “the Restoration to
Life of the Emperor’s Nephew,” painted by Filippino Lippi and Masaccio.
On the right wall are-- “St. Peter raising Tabitha,” by Masolino; “the
Crucifixion of St. Peter;” and “St. Paul before the Proconsul,” by
Filippino Lippi. These frescoes are said to have been studied by
Perugino, Raffaelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michael Angelo. Of the eight
small subjects, “The Expulsion of Adam and Eve,” and “St. Peter and St.
John Healing the Sick by means of their Shadows,” on the left wall; “St.
Peter Baptising,” and “St. Peter Distributing Alms,” on the right wall,
are all by Masaccio. “The Visit of St. Paul to St. Peter in Prison,” on
the left wall, and “the Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison,” on the
right wall, are by Lippi. “Adam and Eve under the Tree of Knowledge,”
and “St. Peter Healing the Cripple,” are ascribed by some to Masolino,
by others to Masaccio. In the opposite arm of the transept is the
Corsini chapel, with large marble alti-relievi by Foggini, and frescoes
on the ceiling by Luca Giordano. In a chapel in the sacristy are some
frescoes discovered in 1858, attributed to Spinello Aretino, but also,
and with more probability, to Agnolo Gaddi, representing scenes in the
life of St. Cecilia. The old church contained frescoes by Giotto, some
fragments of which, removed the year before the fire, are now in the
Royal Institution, Liverpool.
[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--DOME--ASCENT.]
The Duomo, 252. The Campanile, 255. The Baptistery, 256.
Il Bigallo, 257. San Michele, 257. Santa Croce, 258. The National
Museum, 261. La Badia, 263. The House of Michael Angelo, 263.
The Duomo, or Cathedral Church of Santa Maria del Fiore was commenced by
Arnolfo di Cambio, and the foundation-stone laid on the 8th of September
1298, under the auspices of the first papal legate ever sent to
Florence, Cardinal Pietro Valeriani. Arnolfo died in 1310. In 1330
Giotto was appointed master-builder, who, assisted by Andrea Pisano,
continued the work according to Arnolfo’s design. Giotto died in 1337.
To Giotto succeeded Francisco Talenti, Taddeo Gaddi, and Andrea Orcagna.
In 1421 Filippo Brunelleschi commenced the dome, and completed it in all
its essential parts before his death, which took place in 1446. In 1469
Andrea Verrochio added to the dome the copper ball and cross. The dome,
built without timber centrings, consists of two vast vaults, an interior
and an exterior, both supported by strong ribs at the right angles, and
surrounded at the base by a strong iron chain. From the floor to the top
of the dome the height is 300 feet, the lantern 52 more, and to the top
of the cross other 35. The total height therefore is, from the floor to
the top of the cross, 387 feet. The circumference of the dome is 466
feet. Three galleries are carried round the drum. The first is reached
by 153 steps; the next by 62 steps more; and the third, which runs round
the top of the drum and the base of the dome, by other 65 steps. The
appearance of the church from the first and third galleries is most
striking. Outside the third gallery commences the cornice gallery of the
dome. From this part 180 steps (between the two vaults) lead to the top
of the cupola. From the top of the cupola to the ball the ascent is made
up through the lantern by 32 vertical bronze steps, and 13 steps in
marble, and 23 in wood. The number of steps, therefore, from the floor
into the ball is 528; the only difficult part being the vertical bronze
bear-like ladder in the lantern, which is not worth ascending, as little
can be seen (and that little with difficulty) from an aperture in the
ball. But the view from the gallery at the top of the dome is truly
magnificent. Florence and neighbourhood lie stretched out below like on
a map, and as the clearness of the Italian air admits of the smallest
objects being seen distinctly, the traveller should visit this gallery
as early as possible, to gain, by the assistance of the plan (page 234),
a practical acquaintance with the topography of the city. To the N.E.,
by the Piazza Cavour and the stream Mugnone, is Fiesole, 3 miles
distant, on an eminence (see page 276). To the west of the town, on the
Arno, is the Cascine or Park, and the small hill with the clump of
trees, on the other side of the river, is the Monte Oliveto (page 250).
To the S.E., on the other side of the Arno, are the Piazzale
Michelangiolo and San Miniato (page 249), while a good piece beyond is
the Torre del Gallo (page 248). West from the Piazzale are the Boboli
Gardens and the Pitti Palace. Fee to ascend tower, 1 fr. Attendant to be
found in south sacristy.
The length of the cathedral is 556 feet, and of the transept 342 feet.
The breadth, including the aisles, is 132½ feet, and the superficial
area 84,802 feet, or about 6000 feet less than the area occupied by
Cologne cathedral. In 1860 Victor Emmanuel laid the foundation-stone of
the gorgeous new façade, coated, like the whole exterior of the church,
with polished white marble, and dark magnesian serpentine disposed in
chastely ornamented panelling, an arrangement often met with in the
churches of Italy.
[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO’S LAST WORK.]
In the interior, four arches of enormous span run down each side of the
nave to the choir, which expands with unrivalled majesty under the
magnificent dome. Walk in and behold its beautiful proportions. Do not
struggle to perceive by means of the dim light the few relatively
unimportant statues and pictures, or the intricate designs on the marble
pavement by Agnolo, San Gallo, and Michael Angelo, but go at once and
stand below the second greatest dome in the world, shaped like the
narrow end of an egg, or more correctly, in the form of an elongated
octagonal elipsoid, resting on six massive piers ornamented with statues
of eight of the apostles, by Bandini, Donatello, Bandinelli, and
Sansovini. The octagonal balustrade is by Baccio d’Agnolo, and the
reliefs on the panels by Bandinelli. The fresco on the roof represents
the Judgment Day. The upper portion is by G. Vasari, in 1572, and the
rest by Federigo Zucchero, known in England by his portraits of Queen
Elizabeth. The drum of the dome is lighted by seven circular windows,
which, as well as the three over the main entrance, and the twenty-seven
long windows in the choir, were the work of Domenico Livi da Gambassi,
Bernardo de’ Vetri, and others, from 1434 to 1460. Behind the altar is
the last work of Michael Angelo (when eighty-one years of age), an
_unfinished Pieta_, a heroic group, large but not colossal, composed of
four figures, those of our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and an
Angel. The interest of the piece lies in the melancholy but placid
countenance of the Redeemer, and the inclination of the head lacerated
by the crown of thorns. The Mask, Michael Angelo’s first work, is in the
sixth room of the National Museum, along with some other works of the
great sculptor. His greatest productions are in the Sagrestia Nuova, see
page 266. The reliefs in terra-cotta, over the elegant bronze gates of
the sacristies, are considered amongst the best works of Lucca della
Robbia. On the pier at the N.E. end of the nave is the statue of St.
James, by Sansovino; and just behind it, on the wall, is a painting by
Domenico di Michelino, in 1465, representing Dante (holding in his hands
a copy of his poems), with a view of Florence in the background, the
only monument the Republic raised to him they had so unjustly banished.
In the north transept, covered by the wooden floor, just under the iron
bar, is the gnomen and meridian line, formed by P. Toscanelli in 1408,
and repaired by A. Ximines in 1756. The line drawn on the true pavement,
under the present boarded floor, runs in a direction nearly at right
angles to the nave (the nave being nearly east and west). It is only
about 30 feet long, and receives the image of the sun, at and near the
solstice, in June and July; at other seasons the image is lost on the
sides of the cupola. The short diameter of the image in July is about 36
inches. The height of the aperture, through which the ray enters by a
window of the cupolina, is 277 feet 4 inches, 9.68 lines French measure;
so that, as the inscription states, it is the greatest gnomen existing.
[Headnote: CATHEDRAL--MONUMENTS--CAMPANILE.]
Among the most interesting monuments in the church are: at the main
entrance, an equestrian portrait, by Uccello, of Sir John Hawkwood,
a captain in the army of the Florentine Republic, who died at Florence
in 1394. The mosaic, representing the coronation of the Virgin, is by
Gaddo Gaddi. At the west end of the south aisle is the marble monument
and portrait of Filippo Brunelleschi, by his pupil, And. Cavalcanti. The
third monument from the door is to Giotto, by Majano. The beautiful
water-stoup in front is by Giotto. Opposite the southern entrance, in
front of the Casa dei Canonici, are the statues, in a sitting posture,
of Arnolfo di Cambio and Brunelleschi, by Luigi Pampaloni, in 1830. To
the right of Arnolfo’s statue, at house No. 29, is a stone in the wall,
bearing the words “Sasso di Dante,” because on it the poet used to sit
watching the progress of the cathedral from its commencement till 1301,
when he was compelled to leave the city.
At the southern entrance is the +Campanile del Duomo+, designed and
commenced by Giotto in 1334, and finished by Taddeo Gaddi. This
dove-coloured marble gem of architecture, of admirable proportions and
beautiful workmanship, towers 276 feet up into the air, by four storeys
of elegant windows, and terminates in a grand square cornice projecting
from the summit, from which, according to Giotto’s plan, a spire of 94½
feet was to have risen. The niches are peopled with statues of apostles,
saints, and philosophers, and the panels with Scripture subjects in bold
relief, by Donatello, Giovanni Bartolo, Andrea Pisano, Niccolo Aretino,
Lucca della Robbia, Giottino and N. di Bartolo. Ascent by 414 steps.
Fee, ½ franc each visitor.
[Headnote: THE BAPTISTERY--GATES--ALTAR.]
Adjoining the cathedral is the church of +San Giovanni+, the baptistery
of the city, founded in 6th cent., and repaired and restored in 1293 by
Arnolfo di Cambio. It is an octagonal building, 94 ft. in diameter,
covered by a cupola and lantern built in 1550. Three celebrated bronze
gates, of admirable workmanship, give access to it. The gate on the S.
side (fronting the Via Calzaioli) was modelled by And. Pisano, and,
after twenty-two years of incessant labour, cast and gilt in 1330. The
architrave, ornamented with foliage, was added by Lor. Ghiberti in 1446,
and the group at the top, representing the Beheading of John, by V.
Danti, in 1571--a work full of expression. The N. gate is by Lorenzo
Ghiberti, commenced by him when twenty-one, and finished (modelled and
cast) when forty-one, in the year 1424. It is in twenty compartments,
representing scenes from the life of Christ. The three statues above,
and the ornaments, are by Rustici, 1511, a fellow-pupil of Michael
Angelo, and friend of L. da Vinci. At the eastern end, facing the
cathedral, is the bronze gate which Michael Angelo said was worthy to
form the entrance into Paradise. This marvel of art was commenced by
Lorenzo Ghiberti in 1425, cast in 1439, and finished, with the exception
of the lower reliefs, in 1456, when Ghiberti died, and left the
remainder to be completed by his pupils, among whom were the brothers
Pollaioli. It is in ten compartments, representing as many scenes from
the Old Testament. In grouping, drawing, grace, and beauty, the figures
are truly admirable. The perspective is well sustained; the distant
objects being done in low, the nearer objects in middle, and those close
upon the eye in high relief. Over the gate is the Baptism of Christ, by
Sansovino, who, when he died, in 1529, had finished only the modelling;
but Danti, in 1560, produced it in marble. The Angels, executed nearly a
century afterwards, are by Spinazzi, also from Sansovino’s model.
The interior of the Baptistery rests on syenite columns and marble
pilasters with gilded capitals. Above them is a triforium, with frescoes
of saints on a gold ground painted on the panels. The roof and the
soffit of the arch over the altar are covered with mosaics representing
the Judgment Day, by Tafi, Torrita, and G. Gaddie, 13th cent. To the
right of the altar is the monumental tomb of Pope John XXIII. (d. 1419),
by Donatello and Michelozzi. To the left is the font, placed here in
1658, and attributed to G. Pisano. The silver altar of the Baptistery is
kept in the “Uffizio del Comitate per la facciata del Duomo” (behind the
east end of the cathedral), where it can be seen any day from 9 to 12,
for 10 sous. It was constructed, during a long series of years from
1316, by the most eminent artists of the time, and represents in bold
relief the story of John the Baptist. It weighs 335 lbs., is 12 ft. long
by nearly 4 ft. high. The silver statue of St. John, made in 1452,
weighs 14½ lbs., and cross 140 lbs.
[Headnote: THE BIGALLO.]
Opposite the Baptistery, at the corner of the Via Calzaioli, is the very
beautiful little arcade or loggia of the Bigallo, attributed to Orcagna,
enclosed with iron gates by F. Petrucci. The oratory contains an image
of the Virgin by A. Arnoldo, 1359; and a predella, with paintings, by
Ghirlandaio.
OR SAN MICHELE.
Nearly in the centre of the Via Calzaioli, between the Piazzas del Duomo
and della Signoria, is the +Or San Michele+, built at first of undressed
stone, by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1282, for a granary or horreum. Having
been destroyed by fire in 1304, it was rebuilt in 1337 under the
direction of Taddeo Gaddi, the chief architect of the commonwealth. To
Gaddi succeeded And. Orcagna, who received orders to transform the lower
part (the loggia) into a church. In 1569 the upper storey was converted
into government offices. Round the building, in deep niches, are statues
in simple attitudes and of noble dignified forms, the result of a decree
that each trade should bear the expense of furnishing one statue, which
should be the protector and supporter of its own profession. St. Luke,
by John of Bologna (good specimen of his style), was executed at the
expense of the lawyers. Our Lord and St. Thomas, by Verrochio, for the
mercantile tribunal. John the Baptist, by L. Ghiberti, for the guild of
foreign wool-merchants. St. Peter, by Donatello, for the butchers. John
the Evangelist, by Montelupo, under a graceful canopy of Robbia-ware,
for the silk manufacturers. St. George, by Donatello, his noblest work,
for the armourers. St. James, by N. Banco, for the tanners and furriers.
St. Mark, by Donatello, for the flax-dealers. West front, St. Eloy, by
Banco, for the blacksmiths and farriers. St. Stephen, by L. Ghiberti,
for the wool-merchants. St. Matthew, by L. Ghiberti and Michelozzo, for
the stockbrokers and money-changers. Statues of four canonised
sculptors, by Banco, for the builders and carpenters. St. Philip, by
Banco, for the hosiers. And inside the church, to the left of the altar
of St. Anne, a Madonna, by Simone da Fiesola, for the physicians and
apothecaries. These statues are considered the finest works of the
ancient Florentine school. Over the niches are the arms of the
respective trades, under graceful canopies.
In the interior the most remarkable object is the canopied high altar,
by Orcagna, otherwise called Cionis, with Ugolino’s sacred picture of
the Madonna. Inscribed on the altar is “Andreas Cionis pictor
Florentinus hujus oratorii archimagister extitit, 1359.” It is
ornamented with Scripture histories in relief on marble, the different
pieces being fixed together by pins of bronze run in with lead. The
small but beautiful stained glass windows do not admit sufficient light
into the church. Behind San Michele, in the Mercato Nuovo, is an
admirable copy, by Pietro Tacca, of the celebrated Boar, adapted no less
admirably to a Fountain.
SANTA CROCE.
South-east from the fountain, in the Piazza della Signoria, by the
narrow street the Borgo dei Greci, is the Piazza Santa Croce, with, in
the centre, the fine marble statue of Dante, 16½ feet high, by Enrico
Pazzi. It and the new façade of the church were inaugurated in 1865, on
the 600th anniversary of the birthday of the poet. The church of Santa
Croce was commenced by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1297, to whom succeeded
Giotto in 1344. The façade, although only recently finished, is
according to the old design of S. Pollaiolo (d. 1509), and owes its
erection in a very great measure to the liberality of an English
gentleman, the late Francis Sloane, who died at Florence in 1871. The
interior is divided into a nave and two aisles by seven acute Gothic
arches. The pilasters, supporting columns as well as the roof, are of
rude work, while the side chapels are not inclosed, but spread out on
the walls of the aisles, an arrangement which greatly favours the
display of the magnificent monuments erected in this church. The entire
length from west to east is 385 feet, and from north to south at the
transepts 128 feet.
[Headnote: MICHAEL ANGELO--DANTE. MACCHIAVELLI--KETTERICK--COUNTESS OF
ALBANY.]
Over the principal entrance, in the interior, is the statue of St.
Louis, Bishop of Toulouse (d. 1297), the last work executed by
Donatello. In the right or south aisle, commencing from the main
entrance, after 1st altar, lies the monument and resting-place of
Michael Angelo, who died at Rome in 1563, in his 89th year. The monument
was designed by G. Vasari, and executed by three pupils of Michael
Angelo. The bust, considered an excellent likeness, is by B. Lorenzione,
one of the three. Next follows the great marble monument by S. Ricci, in
1828, to the memory of Dante, who died when in exile at Ravenna in 1321,
in the 56th year of his age; and 3d, a monument to the poet Vit. Alfieri
(d. 1803), by Canova, in 1809, and one of his best works. Opposite this
monument is an elaborately wrought pulpit, by B. da Majano, in 1470.
4th. Monument and resting-place of Macchiavelli (d. 1527), by Spinazzi,
in 1778. The originator of this monument was Lord Cowper, who, in 1707,
raised a subscription for the medallion. Then follow a fresco of St.
John and St. Francis, by A. Castagno, and an Annunciation in stone by
Donatello; and opposite it, on the floor, is the tombstone of John
Ketterick, Bishop of Exeter, who died at Florence in 1419, when on a
mission from Henry V. of England to the Pope. Then follow the monument
to L. Bruni (d. 1444), by B. Rossellini. The Virgin, above, is by
A. Verrochio, the master of Leonardo da Vinci. The tomb of P. A.
Micheli, and the mausoleum of Leop. Nobili, by Leop. Veneziani. Turning
to the right by the monument to Neri Corsini (died in London, 1859), and
a slab on the ground, with an inscription by Boccaccio, in honour of the
poet Berberino (14th cent.), we enter the Chapel of the Castellani, with
frescoes by Starnini (the ablest pupil of Giotto), and reredos by
Vasari. Over the altar is a crucifix, by Giotto; at each side sarcophagi
of the Castellani; and statues of St. Bernard and St. Francis, by L.
della Robbia. To the left is the monument to the Countess of Albany,
widow of the young Pretender, died at Florence January 29, 1824; age, 72
years, 4 months, and 9 days. After the chapel of the Countess of Albany
follows the Baroncelli or Guigni chapel, with reredos painting by
Giotto, frescoes by T. Gaddi, and a Pietà by Bandinelli.
A handsome door by the side of the Baroncelli chapel opens into the
cloisters. In the cloister, the first door left hand opens into the
sacristy, built by the Peruzzi family in the 14th cent. Separated from
the sacristy by an iron railing is the Rinuccini chapel, with frescoes
and altars by Giovanni da Milano (1379), a favourite pupil of T.
Gaddi. The reredos painting is by T. Gaddi, 1375. At the extremity of
the cloister is the Cappella del Noviziato. At the entrance is a
shrine by Mino da Fiesole, and opposite it, and also over the altar,
admirable specimens of L. Robbia’s terra-cotta work. The large relief
is considered one of Robbia’s masterpieces. The small door to the
right of the altar leads to the room where the remains of Galileo were
kept many years after his death (in 1642). There are also two
mausoleums--one to a young American girl, Fauveau; and another
attributed to Donatello, both executed with much expression.
[Headnote: GIOTTO’S FRESCOES.]
Returning to the church, we have, in the first chapel (right) frescoes
of the Giotto school, and an Assumption by Allori. Second chapel,
frescoes by Gio. da Giovanni. In the third, the Bonaparte chapel, is, to
the left, the monument by Pampaloni, 1839, to the memory of the wife of
Joseph Bonaparte; and, to the left, another to the memory of their
daughter, Julie Clary Bonaparte (d. 1845). The fourth, or the first to
the right of the high altar, is the Peruzzi chapel, with reredos by A.
del Sarto. On the walls +Giotto’s best frescoes+, representing the
stories of St. John the Apostle and of John the Baptist. Fifth, the
Bardi chapel. The painting on the altar, representing S. Francesco, is
by Cimabue. The frescoes are by Giotto, and represent the life and death
of San Francesco.
_Chapels of the Choir._--Over the high altar, painting by Andrea
Orcagna. The walls and ceiling are covered with frescoes by Agnolo
Gaddi, representing the legend of the finding of the cross, and the life
of St. Francis. The five following chapels are not of much importance,
excepting the third, in the north transept, painted in fresco by Luigi
Sabatelli. The sixth is the Niccolini chapel, with frescoes on the roof,
painted in the 17th cent. by Baldassarre Franceschini, surnamed _il
Volterrano_. This chapel contains five mediocre statues by Francavilla,
and two large paintings on wood by Alessandro Allori, and is also richly
decorated with beautiful marbles. In the adjoining chapel, belonging to
the Bardi family, is a crucifix by Donatello, one of his earliest and
best works, yet not equal to that of his rival Brunelleschi in S. Maria
Novella (page 267). After the Bardi chapel follow the Zamoyska
mausoleum, with a painted reredos by Ligozzi, and the monument to the
composer Luigi Cherubini (d. 1842), by Fantacchiotti. Having arrived at
the fine monument to Luigi, at the east corner of the north aisle, to
avoid confusion it is better to return to the main entrance, and walk up
the north aisle, commencing with the monument and resting-place of
[Headnote: GALILEO--BARTOLINI’S LAST WORK.]
GALILEO GALILEI,
who died in the village of Arcetri (p. 248), in 1642. Over the cenotaph
is his bust, and a representation of his first telescope. Then follows
the monument to Pompeio Josephi, a jurist; 3d, to G. Lani (1770), by
Spinazzi,--on the column before this monument is a Pietà by A. Bronzino;
4th, to Angelus Tavantus, sarcophagus below flat pyramid; 5th, to Vitt.
Fossombroni, by L. Bartolini, 1846; 6th, to Karolus Marzupinus, the
learned secretary of the Florentine Republic, by D. Settignano, 1450;
7th, to Antoni Cocchio, 1773; and 8th, to _Raffællo Morghen_, the
illustrious Neapolitan engraver, a beautiful monument, by Fantacchiotti.
Fronting it, on the column, is the monument to L. B. Alberti, the last
work of Bartolini.
To the south of the façade a large doorway gives access to the
cloisters, around a spacious open court. At the far end, within this
enclosure, is the chapel of the Pazzi, one of Brunelleschi’s best works.
To the right of the entrance into the cloisters is a building containing
the refectory, with a Last Supper, by Giotto, and above it a Crucifixion
and Tree of Jesse. In the smaller refectory, adorned with a fine fresco
of Gio. di Giovanni, the Inquisition held its tribunals from 1284-1782.
The doorkeeper at the gates has the keys of the Pazzi chapel and of the
refectory. In the centre of the enclosure is a statue by Bandinelli
which originally stood on the high altar of the Duomo.
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OR BARGELLO.
At the southern end of the Via del Proconsolo, and between the Piazzas
Sta. Croce and Signoria, is the +National Museum+, in the Palazzo del
Podestà, built in the 13th cent. by Lapo Tedesco and two Dominican
friars, Fra. Sisto and Fra. Ristoro. It bore various names, according to
the functions of the different dignities who occupied it. When, in the
17th cent., it was converted into a prison and became the seat of the
head of the police, it was called the Bargello. In 1864 it was chosen
for the National Museum. Open from 10 till 3.30, 1 fr. Free on
feast-days. The walls of the court are ornamented with the escutcheons
of 204 Podestas (chief magistrates). The rooms on the ground floor are
filled chiefly with armour, among which are a bronze cannon cast in
1636, and Donatello’s seated lion, the +Marzocco+, or the +Arms of
Florence+, a seated lion supporting a shield with its left paw. Ascend
to the first floor by the _outside_ staircase in the court. It was built
by Agnolo Gaddi. At the top, in the vestibule, are two bells, one cast
in 1228 by Bart. Pisano, and the other by Cenni in 1670.
[Headnote: SCULPTURE--MICHAEL ANGELO--BOLOGNA--CELLINI.]
_First saloon._--All labelled. Principal objects--By _Michael Angelo_,
Wounded Apollo, Bacchus and Satyr, Dying Adonis, and an unfinished group
of Victory. Donatello, David with the head of Goliath. G. da Bologna,
Virtue conquering Vice. A beautiful series of reliefs, illustrating
Music and its effects, chiefly by L. Robbia and Donatello. _Second
room._--Furniture and glass ware. Wax group by Zumbo. _Third hall_, the
audience chamber of the Podestà.--Majolica, porcelain, and enamelled
ware. _Fourth hall_, originally a chapel, but afterwards the room in
which prisoners under sentence of death were confined. The frescoes are
chiefly by Giotto, 1301. Among the portraits on the fresco of the east
wall, representing heaven, are those of Dante, and of his master
Brunetto Latini. The St. Jerome and the Madonna are thought to be by
Ghirlandaio. In the adjoining Sacristy are two frescoes, one of which is
thought to be by Cimabue and the other by Gaddi. Those who wish to see
them must request the door to be opened. _Fifth saloon._--Two triptychs
by Orcagna. Works in ivory and rock crystal by Cellini, Bologna, and
N. Pisano. Wood carving by Gibbons. (In this saloon is the stair up to
the second floor.) _Saloons 6 and 7._--Sculptures by the best Italian
artists of the 15th cent., all labelled. Among them may be noted, in the
sixth saloon, Donatello’s David, in the centre. In the seventh, in the
centre, a Child by Donatello. The famous _Mercury_, by Bologna. David,
by Verrochio. On the wall, a bronze table by Pollaiolo, representing the
Crucifixion, and two bas-reliefs, the one on the right by Ghiberti, and
the other on the left by Brunelleschi, prepared for the competition for
the doors of the Baptistery of Florence, won by Ghiberti. Next, a fine
ornament by Donatello. At the beginning of the third wall is a large
bas-relief by V. Dante, representing the Brazen Serpent in the Desert;
and below it, another representing a Battle, by Bertoldo. These are
followed by a cabinet full of sketches by the best artists of the 15th
and 16th cents. After these, the famous bust of Cosmo of Medicis in
Armour, by Benvenuto Cellini, and his model in bronze of the Perseus,
under the loggia. Ascend now to the second floor by the stair in the
fifth room. 1st room.--Portraits in fresco by A. Castagno (1450),
transferred to canvas a few years ago: viz. Uberti, Acciaoli, Dante,
Petrarch, and Boccaccio. Stained glass by Marcilla, 1470-1537. 2d room
on the right.--Fine display of glazed terra-cotta work by Luca and
Andrea Robbia. Stained glass window by Giovanni da Udini. 3d room
(tower).--Tapestry 17th cent. 4th room (on the left of the
entrance).--French tapestry and collection of coins. In the next two
rooms, 5 and 6, are the +Masterpieces of Mediæval Sculpture+, which
formerly stood in the galleries of the Uffizi. Room 5, in centre, John
the Baptist, by Donatello. On the wall, in relief, by B. da Rovezzano,
1507, the Translation of St. Gualberto, on white marble, mutilated. Room
6, in the centre, St. John by Benedetto da Maiano. Young Bacchus, by
Sansovino. Apollo, by Michael Angelo. On end wall, the Death of St.
Peter, by L. Robbia. By Michael Angelo, the Virgin, Jesus, and St. John
(unfinished); the famous Mask of a Satyr (executed in his 15th year);
Martyrdom of St. Andrew (unfinished); and Bust of Brutus. Window wall,
bust of Battista Sforza, and a Holy Family, by Mino da Fiesole. Entrance
wall, Leda, by Michael Angelo. By Mina da Fiesole, a Madonna and a bust
of Piero dei Medici. Left wall, by Rossellino, a Madonna and a St. John.
Faith, by Civitale, 1484, one of his best works. Five children
supporting festoons, by Quercia, 1150, one of his best; and a Madonna,
by Verrochio.
[Headnote: FLORENCE. LA BADIA--HOUSE OF MICHAEL ANGELO.]
At the end of the Via Proconsolo, and opposite the National Museum, is
+La Badia+, founded by Willa, in 978, for the Black Benedictines;
rebuilt in 1284 by Arnolfo di Lapo; and again, in part, in 1625 by
Segaloni. The church, in the form of a Greek cross, has some good
monuments and pictures. The Campanile was built about 1330. The handsome
door is by Benedetto da Rovezzano, 1495. The second monument to the
right of the entrance is to Gianozzo Pandolfini, by Ferrucci in 1457. On
the adjoining altar are beautiful reliefs by Maiano, 1442 to 1497. In
the north transept is the mausoleum of the Gonfalonier Bernardo Giugni,
d. (1466), by Mino da Fiesole. In the south transept is the mausoleum of
Count Ugo of Tuscany (d. 1000). Above is an Assumption, by G. Vasari,
and in the Cappella de’ Bianchi, a Madonna appearing to St. Bernard, by
F. Lippi.
A little way east from the National Museum, at No. 64 Via Ghibellina, is
the house of Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, a plain building, containing a
collection of paintings, sculptures, and sundry objects connected with
Michael Angelo, bequeathed to the care of the State by the last member
of the family, Cosmo Buonarrotti, in 1858. The gallery is open to the
public on Mondays and Thursdays, from 9 to 3. Catalogue in Italian or
French, ½ fr. The collection is contained in seven rooms, some very
small. In the centre of the first room is a small bust of Michael
Angelo, and Nos. 1, 2, and 3 portraits of him at different ages. No. 14,
Battle of Hercules, and No. 17, Madonna, both in relief, by Michael
Angelo. Nos. 11, 13, 15, and 16 are glazed terra-cotta figures by the
Robbias, displaying admirably the fine delicate surface of the enamel
peculiar to their productions. Amongst those who have distinguished
themselves in the manufactory of earthenware is Luca della Robbia,
a Florentine goldsmith and statuary, born in 1388. He made heads and
human figures in relief, and architectural ornaments of glazed
earthenware, terra-cotta invetriata. The colours are white, blue, green,
brown, and yellow. The art of making these glazed earthen figures
invented by Luca was taught by him to his brothers Ottaviano and
Agostino, and was afterwards practised by his nephew Andrea. The rooms
to the left contain drawings and plans of Michael Angelo, many being the
original sketches of his greatest works. First room right, the principal
room of all, contains the statue of Michael Angelo in a sitting posture,
by Novelli; and around the room sixteen pictures illustrating scenes in
his life. The lower six are in grisaille. The ceiling is painted in
fresco. The next or fourth room contains the family history, illustrated
by twenty-one fresco paintings. In the small cabinet off this room are,
among other things, a two-edged sword with the Buonarrotti arms. In the
fifth room, No. 74, Michael Angelo, a Madonna in relief, on marble. 77,
a cast in bronze of 74, by Jean Bologna, by whom is also 81, a bust of
Michael Angelo. Sixth room (the Library), large frescoes, representing
the eminent men of Italy. In the seventh chamber, and in the small room
off, are Etruscan antiquities.
San Giovannino, 264. San Lorenzo, 264. The Mortuary Chapel. The
Sagrestia Nuova, 265. Biblioteca Laurentiana. Etruscan and Egyptian
Museum, 267. Santa Maria Novella, 267. Spezeria, 268. See Plan,
near station.
[Headnote: SAN LORENZO. ROAD TO THE SAGRESTIA NUOVA. UNDERGROUND
CHAPEL.]
North from the baptistery, at the end of the Via de Martelli, and next
the Palazzo Riccardi (see page 275), is the Church of San Giovannino,
rebuilt in the 16th cent., with frescoes representing scenes in the life
of Christ, by Passignano, Barbieri, Bronzino, Tito, Corradi, and
Ligozzi. A few yards west from San Giovannino is SAN LORENZO, considered
in the earlier periods of the Republic the metropolitan church of
Florence. Its existence is traced as far back as the year 393, when it
was consecrated by St. Ambrose. In 1059 it was rebuilt and consecrated
by Pope Nicholas II. Having been destroyed by fire in 1417, during a
festival given by the Guelphs of Arezzo and the Guelphs of Florence, it
was again rebuilt by Brunelleschi and Michael Angelo, and finished by
Antonio Manetti in 1461. It is constructed in the form of a T, 400 feet
long from east to west, and 170 from north to south. The aisles are
lofty, and separated from the nave by 14 Corinthian columns. The two
pulpits are adorned with subjects from Scripture, in relief, by
Donatello and his pupil Bertoldo. The cupola is painted by Meucci. At
the north transept is a monument in white marble by Thorwaldsen to
Pietro Benvenuto, the painter of the cupola of the mortuary chapel. In
the south transept is a monument to the memory of a daughter of General
Moltke. A slab at the foot of the high altar bears the title and age of
Cosmo I., but his remains repose in a black and white marble tomb in the
subterranean church. [Headnote: MORTUARY CHAPEL.] Those pressed for time
should, on arriving at the main or eastern entrance of St. Lorenzo, turn
down to the left by that narrow busy street the Via del Canto de’ Nelli,
to the large folding-doors under the west end or apse of San Lorenzo,
which gives access to the burial chapel, “Dei Principi,” of the Medici
family, and to the still more famous chapel called the _Sagrestia
Nuova_. Both open on Sundays from 10, on Mondays from 12, and every
other day from 9 to 3. Having entered the crypt, ascend the stair to the
left, which leads into the mortuary chapel. Guides offer their
assistance, but they are of no use, as the sacristan alone can unlock
the doors. The Mortuary Chapel is octagonal, and covered with polished
marbles and other shining stones, glowing with brilliant harmony of
colour, yet chaste and simple. The splendid hues are continued on the
ceiling under the dome by the masterly frescoes of P. Benvenuti, painted
in 1835. In each of six of the sides is a monument to a member of the
Medicean family, from Cosmo I. to Cosmo III. (d. 1723), whose son,
G. Gastone (d. 1736), has his memorial slab behind the altar in the
crypt or lower church downstairs, where repose the remains of Donatello
near those of his patron Cosmo I., as well as those of 35 other members
of this once powerful family, which gave three popes to the Church of
Rome, two queens to France, and reigned 250 years over the sixteen
cities of Tuscany, whose escutcheons in beautiful mosaic are set in
panels round the mortuary chapel, below the granite mausoleums of these
princes. The Cappella dei Principi was designed by G. de Medici, and
built by M. Nigetti in 1604, for Ferdinand I., Duke of Tuscany, to
receive the “great stone” which Joseph of Arimathea rolled “to the door
of the sepulchre” of our Lord; and which had been promised him by the
Emir Focardino, governor of Jerusalem. The Emir not having fulfilled his
promise, Ferdinand adopted the intention of his predecessor, Cosmo I.,
and had it converted into the burial chapel of the Medicean family.
[Headnote: SAGRESTIA NUOVA.] From this chapel a short narrow passage
leads to the +Sagrestia Nuova+, or the Cappella dei Depositi, containing
the monuments and mortal remains of Giuliano, Duke of Nemours, and
brother of Pope Leo X.; and of their nephew Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, and
father of Catherine of Medicis; these two monuments, with the statue of
Moses at Rome, are the greatest works of Michael Angelo. The plan of the
edifice was conceived by Pope Leo, but the design and execution were
entrusted in 1521 to Michael Angelo. The interior is disappointing.
A formal square chapel, with walls partly encrusted with whitish marble,
supported by two tiers of Corinthian pilasters of that cold grey stone
called pietra dura, and pierced with doors and windows arranged in the
same tame, flat style. To the right on entering is the grand monument of
Giuliano. He is represented in a sitting posture, with his left hand
gloved and raised. The bent forefinger touches the upper lip, which
seems to yield to the pressure. The helmet throws a deep shade on the
countenance. The two statues reclining on the urn represent Day and
Night. Day is little more than blocked, yet most magnificent. To have
done more would have weakened the striking effect of the whole, which is
heightened by what is left to the imagination. Night is finely imagined.
The attitude is beautiful, mournful, and full of the most touching
expression--the drooping head and the supporting hand are unrivalled in
the arts. Opposite is the monument of the nephew. The attitude of
Lorenzo is marked by such a cast of deep melancholy brooding as to have
acquired for it the title of “il pensiero.” Beneath are the
personifications of Evening and Dawn. Twilight is represented by a
superb manly figure, reclining and looking down; the breadth of chest
and the fine balance of the sunk shoulder are masterly, while the right
limb, which is finished, is incomparable. The Aurora is a female figure
of exquisite proportions. In its serene countenance a spring of thought,
an awakening principle, seems to breathe life into the face of stone, as
if preparing it to open its eyes with the rising day. In front of the
altar is a striking but unfinished Madonna, by Michael Angelo. On the
right is a statue of San Cosmo, by Montorsoli, a pupil of Michael
Angelo’s, and on the left Santo Damiano, by Montelupo.
[Headnote: BIBLIOTHECA LAURENTIANA.]
A door in the middle of the south aisle of the church of S. Lorenzo
leads into the cloister, whence ascend the staircase, by Vasari, to the
Bibliotheca Mediceo-Laurentiana. The books are kept in desks. Open from
9 to 3. Closed on feast-days. Fee, 1 fr. This library was founded by
Cosmo in 1444. Amongst the remarkable manuscripts there is one of Virgil
of the 4th cent. in Roman capitals, not very different in form from the
letters on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a
small quarto, with notes; the notes written in the 5th cent. by the
Consul Turcius Rufus Apronianus, as his signature attests. This is one
of the most ancient legible manuscript books in Europe of which the
period is authentic. The manuscript of Virgil, in the Vatican library,
with paintings, was said to be of the 4th cent., of the time of
Constantine. The manuscripts of the middle ages, instead of being in
Roman capitals, are written in letters resembling in some degree the
small Roman printed letter now in use; and, at a still later period,
they are in a running hand. This library also possesses the celebrated
manuscript of the Pandects, supposed to be of the time of Justinian, in
the 6th cent., written in capital letters, which vary a little from the
capitals on ancient Roman marbles; it is on vellum, of the size of a
large folio book; it was brought from Pisa, and Cosmo I. caused an
edition to be printed from it by Lelio Torelli. A Tacitus, of the 11th
cent. is in a running letter. The library contains 8000 volumes of
manuscripts. Many of them are chained to the desks.
[Headnote: ETRUSCAN MUSEUM.]
Between S. Lorenzo and San Maria Novella in the Via Faenza, No. 144, is
the Etruscan and Egyptian Museum. Open from 9 to 4. Fee, 1 fr. Free on
Sundays.
_First Room_, The vases stand round the room in glass cases. The
earliest are in the first case to the right. Next, case 11, is the
entrance to an Etruscan tomb, which in its main features resembles that
in which our Lord lay. From the frescoes, which are copies of the
original on the tomb near Orvieto, it will be observed that the
Etruscans seem to have treated death as a feast, to which the spirits
were invited by the gods. _Second Room_, In the centre is the vase of
Peleus, or vase of François, by whom it was discovered in 1845 near
Chiusi. It is supposed to have been modelled by Ergatimos, and painted
by Clitias. _Third Room_, Minor objects. _First Octagon Room_, Beautiful
gold ornaments, beads, and glass bowls. Etruscan coins. From this room a
corridor extends to a similar room, in which is a beautiful bronze
statue of Pallas Athene with the ægis, and some fine Etruscan mirrors.
_Fourth Room_, In the centre stands the Chimæra, one of the celebrated
statues of antiquity. _Fifth Room right_, Armour. _Sixth Room_, Etruscan
sculpture. Both of the gems of the collection are in this room--_The
Orator_, a bronze statue above life size, discovered near Lake
Thrasymene; and an _Etruscan Sarcophagus_, which lay nearly 2000 years
buried in the earth, and is supposed to have been made about 300 years
B.C. From this we enter, by a passage covered with inscriptions, into
the Egyptian Museum. _First Room_, In the centre, a Scythian war-chariot
(the only specimen known), and by the side of it the remains of the
Egyptian soldier who probably captured the chariot in battle. _Second
Room_, The most interesting object here is the fresco of the _Last
Supper, by Raphael_, in 1505, when only twenty-two. On the border of St.
Thomas’s dress are the date and name. In the last great hall are
sarcophagi, reliefs, statues, obelisks, idols, mummies, portraits, and
tabernacles.
[Headnote: S. MARIA NOVELLA.]
Close to the railway station, and a short way west from the cathedral
and S. Lorenzo, is the church of +Santa Maria Novella+, facing the
piazza of the same name, adorned with two large obelisks of Serravezza
Mischio marble, crowned with Florentine lilies in bronze, by G. Bologna,
1608.
[Headnote: RUCELLAI CHAPEL--GHIRLANDAIO--BRUNELLESCHI.]
This church, standing south and north, was commenced in 1221 and
finished in 1371. The façade was designed by L. Alberti, and erected at
the expense of G. Rucellai, whose name is inscribed on the frieze,
“Joannes Orcellarius, 1470.” Affixed to it are gnomonic instruments,
made by Ignazio Dante in 1573. In the interior, the fresco over the
principal door is after the Lippi school. The crucifix is by a pupil of
Giotto, Puccio Capanna. On the wall to the right of the door is a
remarkable fresco, a Trinity, by Masaccio; opposite is a fresco
attributed to Gaddi. But the most interesting objects are all at the
northern or apsidial end of the church. At the extremity of the east or
right transept, up some steps, is the +Rucellai Chapel+. On the reredos
of the altar is the Madonna painted by Cimabue, considered his
masterpiece. The walls of the chancel, or recess occupied by the high
altar, are covered with exquisite paintings in fresco by D. Ghirlandaio,
nearly all representing scenes from Scripture. The stalls are by B.
d’Agnola, and the windows by G. Fiorentino. In the chapel on the left,
or west from this, the Cappella Gondi, is the famous wooden _Crucifix by
Brunelleschi_. A curtain is before it. At the end of the W. transept, up
some steps, is the Strozzi chapel, with frescoes by A. Orcagna and his
brother Nardo, representing the Day of Judgment, Heaven, and Hell. The
open door at the foot of the steps leads into the sacristy, where,
immediately on one side of the door, is a beautiful terra-cotta basin,
by L. Robbia; and, on the other side, one of marble by G. Fortini.
A large door in the west, or left aisle, opens into the cloister called
the Chiostro Verde, because the frescoes on the walls, by Paolo Uccello,
1390-1470, and Dello Delli, 1401, are painted in green. Here the keeper,
for a few sous, opens the door leading into the Cappella degli
Spagnuoli, designated thus from having been used by the attendants of
Eleonora de Toledo, wife of Cosmo I. The ceiling and the left wall are
covered with admirably conceived and executed frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi,
while those on the right wall are by Simone Memmi. Adjoining is the
Chiostro Grande, ornamented with 52 frescoes, by Cigoli, Allori, Tito,
Poccetti, and other artists of the 15th and 16th cent., illustrative of
the history of the Dominicans, with views of Florence in the background.
At No. 16 Via della Scala is the entrance to the _Spezeria_, or pharmacy
of the convent, long noted for its perfumes, as well as for a red liquor
called Alkermes, a specialty of Florence, resembling in taste the
liqueur made at the Chartreuse, near Grenoble, only sweeter. It is also
made and sold at the Certosa (see page 250). The chapel contains some
beautiful frescoes, illustrative of the last hours of our Saviour, by
Spinello Aretino.
The Santissima Annunziata, 268. San Marco, 270. Picture-Gallery of
San Marco, 270. Academy of Fine Arts, 271. Galleria dei Lavori in
Pietre Dure, 273. North-east side of Plan.
From the N.E. end of the Cathedral the street, the Via dei Servi, leads
straight to the Piazza and Church of the _Santissima Annunziata_ the
only church in Florence open the whole day. All the others close at 12;
but most of them re-open about 2 or 3 P.M. On the right side of the
Piazza is the Spedale degli Innocenti, a foundling hospital designed by
Brunelleschi, and ornamented in 1470, by Andrea della Robbia, with
pretty terra-cotta figures over the columns of the arcade. In the centre
of the square is an equestrian statue of the Grand Duke Ferdinand I., by
Bologna, in 1608, and two bronze fountains by Pietro Tacca. The +Church
of the Annunziata+ was built in 1250 by the Order of the Servi di Maria.
At the entrance is a narthex or vestibule decorated with admirable
frescoes, protected by glass. To the right, on entering, an Assumption
by Il Rosso, 1515; then follow a Visitation, by J. Pontormo, 1516, pupil
of A. del Sarto; a Marriage of the Virgin, by Franciabigio, 1513;
a Birth of the Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto, as also the next picture, an
Adoration of the Magi, both among his greatest works; a Nativity by
A. Baldovinetti. The next five are by A. del Sarto; Children being
Healed by touching the Dress of the Servite Filippo Benizzi; a Dead
Child recalled to life by touching the Bier of Filippo; the Cure of a
Woman possessed of a Demon; Men destroyed by Lightning who had insulted
Filippo. He parts his Cloak with a Beggar. By Rosselli: Filippo assumes
the habit of the Order. In the narthex is also the tomb of Andrea del
Sarto (died 1606), with bust by Caccini.
[Headnote: THE ANNUNZIATA--NARTHEX FRESCOES. SACRED PICTURE.]
The design of the interior of the church is by Ant. da S. Gallo.
Gherardo Silvani added the marble decorations. The pictures between the
windows are almost all by C. Ulivelli. On each side of the aisle are
five chapels, and at the termination of the aisle are two short
transepts and a circular tribuna designed by Alberti, covered with a
cupola painted by B. Franceschini and Ulivelli. In the right transept is
the tomb of Bandinelli, with a Pieta by himself. Immediately behind the
high altar, adorned with a ciborium or canopy by B. Agnolo (1543), is
the Cappella del Soccorso, with the tomb of Gian Bologna (d. 1608), who
constructed this chapel for himself, and ornamented it with some of his
best works. Under the organ in the second chapel is an Assumption by
Perugino. In the third chapel is a Crucifixion by Stradano, his best
work. In the fourth, a copy of Michael Angelo’s “Judgment Day,” by
Allori. Next it, and to the left of the main entrance, is the chapel and
shrine of the _Annunziata_, built in 1445, by Michelozzi, and lighted by
forty-one silver lamps and one gold lamp glittering among costly
polished stones. Over the altar is an Annunciation in fresco by Pietro
Cavallini (d. 1364), said to have been done by angels. This picture is
shown only once a year; but a duplicate of it, also by Cavallini, is in
San Marco, on the wall to the right on entering. Over the altar is an
“Ecce Homo,” by An. del Sarto, in silver. Adjoining is the cloister
built by S. Pollaiolo. Over the door opening into the church is a “Holy
Family,” by A. del Sarto, a production in the highest style of
excellence, called the Madonna del Saco, as Joseph is seen in the
background seated on a sack. The other fresco paintings in the cloister
are by Poccetti, A. Mascagni, M. Rosselli, and V. Salimbeni (1542-1650),
all displaying rich colouring without gaudiness. In this cloister is
also the chapel of _St. Luke_, with the fresco of “St. Luke painting the
Virgin,” over the altar, is by Vasari, while those on the walls are by
Bronzino, Pontormo, and Santi di Tito.
[Headnote: S. MARCO--PICTURE-GALLERY.]
By referring to the plan, it will be observed that near to the
Annunziata are the Academy of Fine Arts and the +Church of S. Marco+
(standing from S.W. to N.E.) We shall commence with _San Marco_, erected
in 1290, and enlarged in 1427 by Michelozzi. Interior.--Over central
door a “Crucifixion” by Giotto. First altar right, Thomas Aquinas before
the Cross by S. di Tito, and an Annunciation by P. Cavallini (covered).
Second altar, Madonna and Saints, Fra. Bartolommeo. Third, Madonna. Here
a small door opens into the sacristy built by Michelozzi, with statue of
Christ by Novelli, and of S. Antonino by Montorsoli. To the left of the
high altar is the Chapel of the Sacrament, with paintings by Tito,
Empoli, Poccetti, and Passignano. In the left transept is the chapel of
S. Antonino, with frescoes by Passignano in his best style, and a
painting by Bronzino. Between the second and third altars on this the
left side of the church, are the graves of the scholar Pico della
Mirandola, d. 1494; the poet Girolano Benivieni, d. 1542; and of
Poliziano, d. 1494, tutor to the sons of Lorenzo the Magnificent. To the
right of the main entrance is the Convent, now the _Picture-Gallery_, of
St. Mark. Open from 10 to 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays free. During the 15th
and 16th cent. this convent had for its superiors the good Bishop
Antonino (d. 1459), Fra. Angelico Fiesole (d. 1455), Fra. Girolamo
Savonarola, the great preacher and martyr (1498), and Fra. Bartolommeo
della Porta (d. 1517), the best collection of whose works is in this
convent. Among the very fine frescoes are--On the door of the church,
left hand wall, “St. Peter, martyr, with his hand on his mouth,”
B. Angelico. On the end or S.E. wall, “Crucifixion,” with St. Dominic,
B. Angelico. The door in the wall opposite the church opens into the
refectory, with a fresco representing Angels bringing food to St.
Dominic, by Sogliani (d. 1544), pupil of L. Credi. Above is a
“Crucifixion” by Fra. Bartolommeo. The door in the south corner of the
east wall opens into the chapter-house, with a large fresco of the
Crucifixion by B. Angelico. A very famous work. The crucifix on the left
is by B. Montelupo, and the other by his son. The door in the middle of
the east wall gives access to the picture-gallery in the upper storey.
At the foot of this stair is a grand picture, a Last Supper (Cenacolo)
by Ghirlandaio, who has dressed the company in the costume of the
brotherhood. From this ascend to the first floor to what were the cells
or rooms of the monks, ranged on each side of a narrow passage
ornamented with paintings in fresco. At the head of the stair is a very
beautiful Annunciation by Fra. Angelico, and also by him, on the
opposite wall, a St. Dominic embracing the Cross. Opposite the
Crucifixion is the best of the corridors. The cells of the right
corridor are ornamented with frescoes, principally by Fra. Benedetto,
and those of the left principally by his more famous brother, Fra.
Angelico. Next the staircase we have the library. Second room, banners
used for Dante’s festival in 1865. Next, two frescoes by Benedetto. In
the last two rooms, one a little higher than the other, Cosmo de’ Medici
(Pater Patriæ) used frequently to reside. His portrait is by Pontormo,
“The Jesus of Nazareth” is by Fra. Bartolommeo, and the beautiful fresco
by Angelico. In the cell opposite is a Crucifixion by Angelico. In the
third room, painted on wood by Angelico, are an “Adoration” and an
“Annunciation.” In the fourth, also by him, other two famous pictures on
wood, the _Madonna della Stella_ and the _Coronation of Mary_. Turning
to the right we find all the cells (as far as that of Savonarola), with
paintings by Fra. Benedetto or some pupil of Angelico. In the middle of
this corridor is the beautiful Madonna enthroned, an admirable work of
B. Angelico. At the end, in a kind of chapel, are two Madonnas on the
wall by Fra. Bartolomeo: a Virgin in _terra invetriata_, by L. della
Robbia; the bust of Savonarola, full of expression, modelled by
Bastianini; and a sketch of the bust of Benivieni by Bastianini. In the
two little cells at the side, in which dwelt Savonarola, are preserved
some manuscripts, a crucifix, and other objects which belonged to him;
as also his portrait painted by Fra. Bartolommeo, and a view of the
Piazza della Signoria, with the burning of Savonarola and his
companions. Proceeding along the corridor, in which there are no cells
on the right for some distance, we come to more frescoes by Benedetto,
the best being a “Coronation” in the third cell.
[Headnote: ACADEMY OF THE FINE ARTS.]
At the south-west corner of the Piazza San Marco, at No. 34 Via
Ricasoli, is the entrance to the +Academy of Fine Arts+. Open from 9
till 3. Fee, 1 fr. Sundays, free. The principal door is by Paoletti. In
the vestibule are reliefs and busts of contemporary artists by L. della
Robbia. In the cloister are bas-reliefs by the brother and nephew of
Robbia, and Bologna’s models for his statues of Virtue and Vice, and of
the Rape of the Sabines. A corridor, containing statues in stucco, to
the right of the main entrance, leads to the library. Midway, left hand,
a door opens into the principal gallery, the hall of the large pictures,
with 124 paintings, by the following artists: M. Albertinelli, A.
Allori, B. Angelico, Spinello Aretino, Fra. Bartolommeo, Biliverti,
F. Boschi, Botticelli, Brina, Bronzino, Buffalmaccio, Calabrese,
A. Castagno, Cigoli, Cimabue, Credi, Curradi, C. Dolci, I. Empoli, Gen.
da Fabriano, A. and T. Gaddi, R. del Garbo, Ghirlandaio, Giotto,
Ligozzi, Fra. F. Lippi, Aur. Lomi, Masaccio, Giov. da Milano, Monaco,
S. P. Nelli, L. di Niccolo, D. Passignani, Perugino, F. Pesellino, Fra.
P. da Pistoia, Poccetti, Fr. Poppi, C. Rosselli, A. Sacchi, A. del
Sarto, L. Signorelli, G. A. Sogliani, A. Squazelli, Santi di Tito,
Vasari, Veracini, Verrochio, Vignali. In No. 43, the Baptism of Christ,
by Verrochio, the angel to the right of the spectator was painted by
Leonardo da Vinci when he was twenty-three years old. No. 115, by
Cigoli, St. Francis. It is said that in order to obtain the unearthly
expression of the face the painter kept a poor pilgrim for many hours
without food, until he fainted from hunger. This room is followed by a
chamber communicating with the +Tribune+, built in 1875, for the
celebrated statue of _David_, sculptured by Michael Angelo when 28 years
of age. It was brought here in 1873 from the Piazza della Signoria,
where it had stood 369 years. From the library a door opens into the
Hall of Ancient Pictures, containing sixty paintings. The artists of a
large number are unknown. The others are by B. Angelico, S. Aretino,
M. Arezzo, A. Baldovinetti, B. Berlinghieri, Neri di Bicci, Sim. da
Bologna, S. Botticelli, P. di Buonaguida, A. Ceraiolo, D. Ghirlandaio,
Bicci di Lorenzo, G. Pacchiarotto, and Signorelli. In the hall of the
small pictures there are seventy-one paintings, by artists already
named, the most important being Fra. and B. Angelico, who, with Sandro
Botticelli, Francesco Granacci, Luca Signorelli, and Lorenzo di Credi,
are better represented here than anywhere else. The most remarkable are
41, “The Day of Judgment,” by Fra. Angelico. 13, A “Nativity,” by L. di
Credi; and 18, Portraits of two Vallombrosian friars, by Raphael or
Perugino. Beyond this is a collection of original designs in a room
called the Sala dei Cartoni. 2 and 5 are by Raphael. 6, Correggio. 3 and
12, Ben. Poccetti. 1, 4, 9, 10, 11, 18, and 22, Fra. Bartolommeo. 19,
Bronzino. 7, 8, and 20, F. Barroccio. 24, Credi, and 23, Carlo Cignani.
From the vestibule a staircase leads up to the Galleria dei Quadri
Moderni, a collection of 160 modern paintings, distributed in six rooms.
The custodian of the academy keeps the keys of the Cloister dello
Scalzo, No. 69 Via Cavour, adorned with fourteen frescoes by A. del
Sarto, and two by his friend Franciabigio, in chiaroscuro, during 1517
to 1526, illustrative of the life of John the Baptist. They are not in a
good state of preservation.
[Headnote: MOSAICS--GALLERIA DEI LAVORI IN PIETRE DURE.]
Adjoining the Accademia delle belle Arti, at No. 82 Via degli Alfani, is
the entrance into the Galleria dei Lavori in Pietre Dure, open from 10
to 3 daily. Entrance free. Rooms 1, 2, and 3 contain, in glass cases,
specimens of all the minerals and rocks used in Florence in the
manufacture of mosaics. They are numbered, and accompanied with
explanatory catalogues. They consist chiefly of varieties of marble and
alabaster, agates of different shades, chalcedony, jasper, lapis lazuli,
and red porphyry. The large room contains the finished mosaics, all for
sale, at prices from £80 upwards. Mosaics are made and sold in numerous
establishments throughout the city, but the best and most artistic are
sold here.
THE PALACES OF FLORENCE.
The palaces of Florence are great square edifices of a grand and gloomy
aspect, built of dark blue stones (pietra forte) measuring from 3 to
4 feet. The bases, to the height of from 20 to 30 feet, consist of
coarsely chiselled rubble work, which lessens the baldness, and
contributes character and effect to the from 200 to 300 feet of plain
wall. At intervals are strong bronze banner-rings and torch-sockets,
while at each corner is a curiously-shaped lamp of wrought-iron. Near
the main entrance there is generally a niche, with an opening called a
“cantina,” just large enough to allow a quart bottle to pass through,
whence various articles of food are transmitted into the house. Those
that sell by retail the oil and wine from their estates have painted
over this niche “Vino é Olio.” The empty bottle, with the money, having
been passed through, it reappears shortly after full. The windows of the
first range are generally 10 feet from the ground, and are grated and
barred like those of a prison. Under the eaves runs a deep cornice with
bold projecting soffits. The roofs of the palaces, as well as those of
the smallest houses, are of a low pitch, and covered with tiles of two
different forms--a flat tile with ledges on the side, and a tile nearly
semi-cylindrical and tapering upwards, which thus covers the interstice
between the ledges of the flat tiles. The entrance to the palaces is by
a high arched massive gateway, giving access to a court surrounded by an
arcade or loggia, whence massive stone staircases lead up to the highest
storeys. The lofty ceilings of the principal rooms are decorated, and
the beams though displayed, are carved, painted, and gilded, and
contribute to the grandeur of the whole. The floors are of thin bricks,
either laid flat or edgeways in the herring-bone or _spina di pesce_
fashion. As in Genoa, several of the palaces contain collections of
works of art open to the public on certain days. [Headnote: PALAZZO
VECCHIO.] Of these the best are--first, the +Palazzo Vecchio+, in the
Piazza della Signoria, erected in 1218 by Arnolfo di Lapo. It is
surmounted by a noble antique tower 305 feet high, commanding an
excellent view of Florence. The entrance is through a superb but gloomy
court, surrounded by an arcade on massive columns, by Michelozzi,
substituted for those of Arnoldo in 1434. They are 8 feet in
circumference, and of admirable proportions. In the centre is a neat
little fountain by Andrea Verocchio, intended originally for the Villa
Careggi. Having traversed this court, ascend first stair left hand, and
keep turning to the left the length of the first storey, where take
first door right, which opens into the great hall or council chamber,
170 feet long by 77 broad, built in 1495, but altered by Vasari in 1540,
who also added the frescoes on the walls and oil-painting on the ceiling
illustrative of events in the history of Florence. Now ascend to the
second storey, where enter the ante-room to the left, the Sala de’
Gigli, with a grand but injured fresco by Ghirlandaio in 1482. The
lintel of the door in this room opening into the next, the Sala
d’Udienza, is by Benedetto da Majano. On one of the leaves of the door
is a linear drawing of Dante, and on the other one of Petrarch. The Sala
d’Udienza is painted in fresco by Salviati, illustrative of Roman
history. It communicates with the Cappella S. Bernardo, beautifully
painted in imitation of mosaic by R. Ghirlandaio. Near the chapel of St.
Bernard (sometimes approached by the four rooms of Eleanora de Toledo,
painted by Stradan of Bruges, and at other times by a narrow passage),
is a small chapel beautifully painted by Bronzino, and an adjoining
chamber painted by Poccetti.
[Headnote: DANTE’S HOUSE.]
North from the palace, by the Via dei Magazzini, is the +Via
S. Martino+, in which is a house with a marble slab over the door,
bearing the following inscription: “In questa casa degli Alighieri
nacque il Divino Poeta.” --_Dante._ He was married to Gemma in
S. Martino, a humble little church close by, in the +Via dei Magazzini+.
The Beatrice of Dante (like Petrarch’s Laura) lived in the Palazzo
Salviati, in the Via del Proconsolo. She married Giovanni delle Bande
Nere, and became the mother of Cosmo I.
[Headnote: PALAZZO STROZZI--CORSINI--RICCARDI.]
In the Via Tornabuoni is the Palazzo Strozzi, open on Wednesdays from 11
to 1. It was built in 1489 from designs by Majano. The ironwork, rings,
and lanterns are by Grosso di Ferrara, 1510. The picture-gallery on the
first floor is contained in four large rooms elegantly and comfortably
furnished. In each room there is a list of the paintings on a card. The
two most remarkable are--+Portrait+ of one of the ladies Strozzi by
Leonardo da Vinci; and another of one of the children, “La Puttina,” by
Tiziano. Between the Strozzi Palace and the Arno is the Piazza
S. Trinità. In it, opposite the Hotel du Nord, is a column of Oriental
granite from the baths of Antoninus, presented to Cosmo I. by Pius IV.
A short way down the Arno (see plan), at No. 10 Lungarno Corsini, is the
Palazzo Corsini, built (1618-56) by G. Silvani, staircase by Ferri. The
collection of paintings, contained in twelve rooms, may be visited on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 10 till 2. Entrance by No. 7 Via
Parione.
Next to the church S. Giovannino (see p. 264), at No. 1 Via Cavour, is
the Prefettura della Provincia di Firenze, formerly the Palazzo
Riccardi, 300 feet long by 90 in height. This, the cradle of the
Medicean family, was erected in 1431, after the design of Michelozzi, by
Cosmo Pater Patriae, and continued to be the residence of the Medici
till 1540, when it was abandoned for the Palazzo Vecchio. The first row
of large windows was opened by Michael Angelo; for originally the base,
rising to 30 feet, presented one unbroken space, varied only by the
projection of the vast and rudely chiselled stones of which it is
composed. In the court below the corridor are statues and busts, and the
sarcophagi which were formerly outside the baptistery, and a curtain
beautifully sculptured in stone over one of the arches. Upstairs are the
Biblioteca Riccardi, a picture-gallery, and a small chapel covered with
most charming frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli 1400-1478, painted by
lamplight, as the chapel at that time had no window. Palace open from
12.30 till 2.
Down the Arno, beyond the Ponte alla Carraia (see plan), is the Church
of Ognissanti. In the chapel next the door of the sacristy repose the
remains of Amerigo Vespucci, who gave his name to America. In the centre
of the nave are frescoes by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli. The frescoes in
the cloisters illustrating the life of St. Francis are by Giovanni and
Ligozzi. The Last Supper, in the refectory, is by Ghirlandaio. A little
way up the street called the Borgo Ognissanti is the Hospital
S. Giovanni di Dio, founded by Amerigo Vespucci; while the house in
which he lived and died stood on the site of the present No. 21 Borgo
Ognissanti.
[Headnote: PARK OF FLORENCE--VILLA CAREGGI--PALAZZO TORRIGIANI.]
At the west end of the town, near the +Porta Prato+, is the Cascine or
Park of Florence, on the right or north hank of the Arno, much
frequented in the afternoon. An omnibus runs every 10 minutes between
the Porta Prato and the Piazza della Signoria. Opposite the Cascine is
the hill Monte Oliveto, page 251. Nearly two miles north from the
railway station by the Romito road is the Villa Careggi, built by
Michelozzi for Cosmo Pater Patriae, in which he died on August 1, 1464,
as also Lorenzo the Magnificent, on the 8th of April 1492. At the Ponte
alle Grazie, the first bridge above the Ponte Vecchio, is the Palazzo
Torrigiani, built by Baccio d’Agnolo, containing a valuable collection
of paintings, accompanied with catalogues. Open daily excepting
Saturdays and Sundays.
FIESOLE.
At the east side of the town, by the +Via Alfieri+ or +Pinti+, is the
Protestant cemetery, between the Boulevards Eugenio and Amedeo, the
latter leading northwards to the Piazza Cavour with the Porta S. Gallo.
From this Porta commences the road to the Etrurian city of Faesula, the
modern _Fiesole_, 3 miles from Florence, and about 600 feet above it, on
the summit of a ridge composed of a dark-coloured sandstone. Rail to
Fiesole. Carriage there and back, 8 to 10 fr. From the Porta S. Gallo it
is an easy walk of about 2½ miles. See the excellent map of the environs
(Dintorni) of Florence, published by the “Istituto Topografico
Militare,” 1 fr. Beyond the Porta S. Gallo take the road leading up the
left or east bank of the Mugnone for about 1 mile, as far as the Villa
Palmieri, where, in 1348, Boccaccio wrote his Decameron. From this the
road ascends between walls about 1 mile more to the Church and Convent
of S. Domenico, in which Beato Angelico was one of the monks. The church
contains an Annunciation by Empoli; a Baptism of Christ by Credi; a St.
Francis by Cigoli; and in the choir a Virgin with Saints by B. Angelico.
Near S. Domenico is the Villa Landore, which was occupied for many years
by Walter Savage Landor. The road striking off to the left or towards
the Mugnone, leads to the venerable abbey of La Badia di Fiesole,
rebuilt in 1462 by Brunelleschi. The road from St. Domenico to Fiesole
is rather steep, and passes, at about two-thirds of the way, the
beautiful old mansion with terraced gardens called the Villa Mozzi or
Spence, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo il Magnifico, and the
place in which the Pazzi conspiracy was formed in 1478. A short way
beyond, the road enters the Piazza of _Fiesole_ (pop. 11,500. _Inns:_
Locanda Firenze; Trattoria l’Aurora), famous for views and
stone-quarries. One side of the Piazza is occupied by the Cathedral,
dedicated to St. Romulus, commenced in 1028, and in form resembling S
Miniato. To the right of the high altar is the mausoleum of Bishop
Salutati, and a marble tabernacle by Mino da Fiesole in 1465. The
frescoes on the ceiling of the chancel are by Ferrucci; and the statue
of St. Romulus in a sitting posture by Luca della Robbia or his nephew.
In a garden behind the church are the remains of a Roman theatre. The
road passing this garden leads to the ruins of the ancient walls, formed
of huge uncemented blocks, not parallel, but of different sizes, and
some of them indented into each other. Fronting the Cathedral is the
commencement of a little stony road leading up to the terrace of a
Franciscan convent, commanding a glorious view, and to the church of
S. Alessandro, with columns of Cipollino marble.
[Headnote: S. SALVI--VENCIGLIATO--SETTIGNANO.]
S. SALVI. VENCIGLIATO. SETTIGNANO.--1¼ mile east from the Porta
S. Croce, by the road following the railway, is S. Salvi, containing a
Last Supper, by A. del Sarto, in the refectory. From S. Salvi northwards
to the Via Settignano, which follow for 1½ mile eastwards, then take the
road to the left going northwards, and crossing the Mensola above its
union with the Frassinaia, is the Castle of Vencigliato, founded in the
10th cent., 5 miles north-east from the Porta S. Croce, and situated on
the summit of a hill commanding a splendid view. In 1860 it was restored
at the expense of an Englishman, Temple Leader. 1¼ mile east from the
part of Settignano road, whence the Vencigliato road ramifies, is
Settignano, the birthplace of Michael Angelo.
Straw-plaiting gives employment to numerous females around Florence. The
wheat used is sown in March, and is cut before the grain is ripe. The
straw is then divided into pieces from 6 to 8 inches long, and exposed
for sale in the markets in small bunches. In this state it is bought by
the plaiters, who in their turn expose for sale yards of plaited straw
to the hatters.
The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is principally
the Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles an
inferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made of
ground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are very
nourishing to those who can digest them.
Excursion to Vallombrosa, Camaldoli, and Alvernia to the east of
Florence. (See Map on page 199.)
To Vallombrosa. Take rail to Pontassieve, 13 miles east from Florence,
pop. 11,000. _Inn:_ Italia; where hire coach for Pelago, 6 miles east.
Fare, 6 fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). _Inn:_ Buon Cuore; whence mule, 5 fr.,
guide, 2 fr., to Vallombrosa, 8 miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi,
about 5½ miles from Pelago, and the rest by mule or on foot. At
Pontassieve a carriage for two at 12 fr. per day, or for four at 20
fr. per day, may be hired for visiting the three sanctuaries. Having
visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and proceed to Bibbiena, 15
miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina, and Poppi, 4 miles
from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses must be hired for
Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing path leads to
Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to Camaldoli
from Bibbiena, distant 4 miles northwards from Bibbiena.
[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO.]
A little beyond Pelago the road to Vallombrosa begins to ascend the
Apennines, disclosing in the ascent many charming views of hills
crowned with villas, and mountains covered with evergreen oaks,
intermingled with bare perpendicular cliffs, and roaring torrents
tumbling from the crags. _Vallombrosa_ is situated 2980 feet above the
sea, on the side of Mt. Protomagno, which rises 2340 feet higher.
Although the scenery does not agree altogether with Milton’s
description in _Paradise Lost_, book iv. lines 131-159, it possesses
that charming loveliness which inspired the divine poet with the ideas
conveyed in these lines. The steep acclivity is clothed with a “woody
theatre” of stateliest chestnuts, oaks, firs, and beeches, which in
ranks ascend, waving one above the other, shade above shade; or hang
from the very brows of precipices, whose verdant sides are with
thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild. “Higher than their tops” an
occasional glade breaks the uniformity of the sylvan scene, while on
the summit expands a wide grassy down with enamelled colours mixed,
from which there is a “prospect large” over foliaged hills, and the
wild, bleak, sterile mountains of Camaldoli and Alvernia. The church
and convent were erected in 1637. The latter is now occupied partly by
a forestry school and partly by an inn. Nearly 300 feet higher, by a
winding path, is Il Paradisino, a little hermitage romantically
situated on a projecting rock commanding a grand view. The scagliola
decorations in the chapel were by an Englishman, Father +Hugford+, who
excelled in various branches of natural philosophy, and in the art of
imitating marble by that composition called scagliola. He died in the
last century. The ascent to the summit of the Protomagno occupies 1
hour; guide 2 fr. The road to Camaldoli winds round the mountain that
shelters Vallombrosa on the north side, and then descends into the Val
d’Arno Inferiore. On a knoll, encircled with trees in the middle of
the plain, is the noble now ruined castle of Romena, and behind it the
villages of Poppi and Bibbiena.
[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO. ALVERNIA.]
The abbey of _Camaldoli_, founded by S. Romualdo, a Calabrian
anchorite, in 1046, is situated on the torrent Giogana, in a valley
surrounded by high mountains. About 2 miles above the monastery, on a
hill to the north, by a zig-zag path through the forest, is Il Sacro
Eremo, the hermitage of the convent. The church is neat, and possesses
an Annunciation in relief by Robbia. From the culminating point of the
ridge, the Prato al Soglio, is one of the finest views in this part of
Italy. About 14 miles from Camaldoli, on +Mons Alvernus+, a lofty rock
towering above the neighbouring eminences, and split into numberless
pinnacles of fantastic forms, full of grottoes and galleries hollowed
out by nature, is situated the convent of _Alvernia_, founded by St.
Francis in 1213, and inhabited by about 110 monks. From the church a
covered gallery leads to the cave with the chapel of the Stemmate, in
which St. Francis is said to have received, imprinted on his body,
marks similar to those produced on Jesus Christ by the crucifixion.
From Camaldoli and from Alvernia return to Bibbiena, where the
diligence may be taken to Arezzo, pop. 12,000, whence rail either to
Rome, 141 miles south, or to Florence, 54 miles north-west. The drive
from Pontassieve to Florence, by the Arno, is very beautiful.
+Florence+ is 291 m. S.E. from Turin by Pistoja, Bologna, Modena, Parma,
Piacenza, and Alessandria. Time by quick trains, 13 hrs. 1st class, 52
frs. 95 c.; 2d class, 37 frs. 5 c. See Black’s _South France_, East
half, page 233.
Florence is 196½ m. N. from Rome by Arezzo, Terontola, Chiusi, Orvieto,
and Orte. 8 hrs. by quick train. 1st class, 34 frs. 30 c.; 2d class, 23
frs. 55 c. Florence is 60¼ m. E. from Leghorn by Empoli, Pontedera, and
Pisa. 2 hrs. 20 min. by quick train. 1st class, 10 frs. 45 c.; 2d class,
7 frs. 15 c. See the “Indicatore Ufficiale.” To the price given in the
Indicatore the amount of the tax has to be added.
[Headnote: BUSALLA. NOVI.]
+Genoa to Turin by Alessandria and Asti.+
Distance, 103½ m. N.W. Time by quick trains, 4¼ hrs. Map, page 199.
+Genoa.+--The train after traversing the first tunnel emerges at the
busy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1¼ m. W. from Genoa and 2½ m. E.
from Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and ascends the valley
of the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing six tunnels.
Having passed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the train arrives at
Busalla, 14¼ m. N. from Genoa and 89¼ m. S. from Turin. Busalla is
situated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft.), on the crest
which divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Here
also the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28½ or 35
in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390
yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareous
schists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has been
hitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnel
at Arquata, 26 m. N. from Genoa, in the narrow valley of the Scrivia.
33½ m. N. from Genoa, and 70 m. S. from Turin, is Novi, H. La Sirena,
a town of 11,000 inhabitants, situated among hills; where, in August 15,
1799, a great battle took place between the French under Joubert and the
Austrians and Russians under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated and
their general killed. Novi is 60 m. S.W. from Milan by Tortana, Voghera,
and +Pavia+.
[Headnote: ALESSANDRIA.]
47¼ m. N. from Genoa and 56¼ m. S.E. from Turin is +Alessandria+, pop.
30,000, 234¼ m. N.W. from Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna,
and Pistoja. See Black’s _South France_, East half. See map, page 199.
At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready.
_Hotels:_ L’Universo; Italia; Europa. Alessandria received its name in
compliment to Pope Alexander III. The citadel, capable of holding
50,000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a façade in the
modern taste, with granite columns; in the interior is a colossal
statue of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di
Loreto and S. Lorenzo. The Ghilino palace, now belonging to the crown,
was designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually
at Alessandria--one in April, the other in October. In the
neighbourhood is the village of Marengo, near which took place (June
1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first
lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellermann. From
Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, passing the
minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone; then at 34¾ m.
E. from Turin, and 68¾ m. N.W. from Genoa, arrives at
[Headnote: ASTI.]
+Asti+ (the _Hasta Pampeia_, or Pompey’s Market, of the Latins),
a place of 18,000 inhabitants. H. Leone d’Oro. Celebrated for its
sparking wines, both red and white. The cathedral is a large and fine
Gothic structure (1348). The adjacent church of S. Giovanni is built
upon a basilica, of which the existing part is borne by monolithic
columns with capitals bearing Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta
Alessandria is the small Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent., resting
on short columns with square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born
here, in a palace built by his uncle, who was a count and an
architect. He died in 1803. The tertiary strata of the neighbourhood
are very rich in fossils. Loop-line from Asti to Milan in 3½ hrs.
From Asti the train descends by Villafranca, where there is a viaduct
over the Standvasso, about 100 ft. above the stream. Farther W., at
Trofarello, is the junction with the loop-lines to Savona, 82½ m. S.
(page 183), and to Cuneo, 46½ m. S.W. (page 183).
Five miles S. from Turin is Moncalieri. On the hill-side, overlooking
the town, is the large royal palace in which Victor Emmanuel I. died
in 1823.
For +Turin+, see Black’s _South France_, East half. Loop-line to
Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W., and to Torre-Pellice, 10½ m. farther west, in
the Waldensian valleys. See Black’s _South France_, East half.
+Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera.+
By FONTAINEBLEAU, JOIGNY, DIJON, MACON, BOURG, AMBÉRIEUX, CULOZ,
AIX-LES-BAINS, CHAMBERY, MODANE, and MONT CENIS. The continuation
of this line southwards from Turin extends to Genoa by Alessandria
(page 279).
+Part First.+--PARIS TO MODANE, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide,
13 hrs. 36 min. +Part Second.+--MODANE TO TURIN, 58½ miles.
Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min.
_Time-tables._--In England, see under “London to Turin” in the
Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway,
which Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station
of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of
their Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and
Chambery. For the whole route consult the Sketch Map on the fly-leaf.
For the northern part, between Paris and Macon, see map, page 1; and
from Macon to Turin, map, page 26.
PART I.--PARIS TO MODANE.
miles from PARIS
miles to MODANE
{ }{431}
+PARIS.+ In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de Lyon
Station is the Grand Hôtel de l’Univers, and under it a Café Restaurant.
A little farther off is Hôtel Jules César. Good restaurant also in the
station. For the first 274 m. between Paris and Macon, see pages 1 to
26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates from this one. At
Montereau, 49½ m. from Paris (p. 10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not
the Rapide. At La Roche (p. 14) both the Rapide and the Express halt 5
min. At Tonnerre (p. 17) they halt again 5 min. At Les Laumes (p. 19)
the Express halts 5 min. At Dijon (p. 20) both halt 6 min. At Macon
(p. 26) they halt 5 min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the
Marseilles line, and goes 23 m. E. to Bourg, 297 m. from Paris. At
Bourg, in the church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a
loop-line traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97 m. W.
(See map, p. 27; and for description, Black’s _France_, North half).
5½ m. S.E. from Bourg the line crosses the Ain at the village of
Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives at +Ambérieu+, 316¼ m. S.E. from Paris,
and 114¾ m. N.W. from Modane. At Ambérieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and
the Express 15 min. Ambérieu, pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the
Albarine at the base of the Jura mountains, and connected by rail with
Lyon, 32½ m. west. From Ambérieu another loop-line extends 11 m. S.
through a mountainous country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important
quarries, on the Fouron near its junction with the Rhône. Between
Ambérieu and Culoz the rail passes through the last ramifications of the
Jura mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt.
Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart.
The view is admirable--on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes of
Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends to
Lyons and the mountains of Ardêche.
[Headnote: LAGNIEU.]
8 m. S. from Ambérieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is +Lagnieu+, pop.
3500, station for +La Balme+, pop. 1000, 3 m. S.W., on south side of
Rhône. There is a cave here with great galleries and stalactites, and a
lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and 13 ft. deep. It is easily
approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons steamboats. Alight at the
Salette station, 20 min. walk from the entrance into the grotto.
From Ambérieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which, after
St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7 m. S.E. from Ambérieu, becomes wild and imposing.
At Tenay, _Inn:_ Pittion, 4¼ m. farther, the train quits the Albarine
and traverses a sequestered valley to
[Headnote: VIRIEU LE GRAND. CULOZ.]
+Virieu le Grand+, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with
loop-line to Belley, 9½ m. S., pop. 5000; _Inns:_ Rey; Camus, with
important quarries of lithographic stones. 442½ m. from Paris and 19¼ m.
N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of Cerveyrieu.
347½ m. S.E. from Paris, 14½ m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83½ m. N.
from Modane, is +Culoz+, on the Rhône, about ¾ m. E. from the station,
771 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200. Near the station are the inns *H.
Folliet; H. Mémon. A great deal of carriage-changing takes place here.
41 m. N.E. is Geneva; see Black’s _North France_, and map p. 26. 4½ m.
S. from Culoz and 10 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Châtillon, 700 ft.
above the sea, on the N.E. extremity of Lake Bourget, 2 hrs. distant by
row-boat from Aix. In the castle, 13th cent., commanding a charming view
of the lake, Pope Celestin was born.
Lake Bourget is 700 ft. above the sea, 10 m. long, from 2 to 3 m. wide,
and from 200 to 300 ft. deep. The W. side is bounded by the steep ridge
of Mont Chat. Opposite to Aix is a depression, the Col du Mont Chat,
2070 ft., and immediately to the S. a bold craggy peak, La Dent du Chat,
5302 ft., ascended from the little village of Bordeaux in about 4 hrs.,
after a very fatiguing climb. One of the best points for a view over the
lake and the surrounding country is the Revard, 5112 ft., one of the
summits of the ridge Mont d’Azy, which bounds the E. side of the plain
of Aix (see page 285). It is ascended from the village of Mouxy in about
4 hrs.
The best of the fish caught in the lake is the ombre-chevalier. The
lavaret is peculiar to it. There are also trout, perch, pike, shad,
carp, gudgeon, tench, and barbel.
[Headnote: AIX-LES-BAINS. HOTELS. CABS.]
{362}{69}
+AIX-LES-BAINS+, 850 ft. above the sea, 1½ m. from Lake Bourget, pop.
6000. The Casino is a handsome building, with park of its own extending
to the railway station. First-class hotels--their pension is from 12 to
20 frs., but it is necessary to arrange the price at the commencement.
On each side of the Casino are the *H. Aix, with garden, and the
Univers. Opposite are the H. de la Galerie and the Nord. Then follow the
_Hotels:_ *Europe; *Venat, with large garden; and opposite, at the end
of R. du Casino, the H. Genève. Second-class houses: in the parallel
street, the R. Genève, behind the R. du Casino, are the H. Durand;
*Gaillard; in the Place Centrale the H. Poste. Opposite the H. Poste is
the office whence the omnibuses start for the lake and the Lyons
steamboats, and for Marlioz. Up by the side of the Bath-house is the H.
de l’Etablissement. In front, the H. de l’Arc Romain. To the left, in
the Rue des Écoles, is a small clean family house, the H. Germain.
A little beyond is the H. Châteaux-Durrieux. Below the last, the
H. Folliet and Italie. The pension price in the above second-class
houses varies from 7 to 11 frs. On road to station, the H. des Bergues.
On an eminence overlooking the park is the *Splendide Hôtel, a really
splendid first-class house. Below it is the H. Beau-Site, also a new but
a smaller first-class house.
The Port is nearly 2 m. from Aix by the R. de Genève, and then to the
left. At the pier is the inn Beau-Rivage, “Poissons frais.”
Abundance of furnished lodgings. English chapel, Rue du Temple, behind
the H. Venat. Presbyterian chapel in the park.
_Cabs or Fiacres._--One-horse cab--3 frs. for the first hour; every
succeeding hour, 2 frs.; per day, 20 frs. Two-horse cab--for first hour,
4 frs.; every succeeding hour, 3½ frs.; per day, 20 frs. Riding
horses--two hours, 4 frs. Donkeys--one hour, 1 fr.; half-day, 4 frs.
[Headnote: SPRINGS.]
The bathing establishment is a very large edifice, especially fitted up
for the external application of the water, very little being drunk.
Mineral water flows from the fountain in front of the building. Behind
the establishment are the caverns whence the springs issue. To visit, ½
fr. There are three different springs, their temperatures being 112°,
114°, and 115° Fahrenheit, and their contents carbonates of lime,
magnesia, and iron, sulphate of soda, and some phosphates. Ordinary bath
with linen, 1½ fr. Opposite the establishment is a Roman arch, 3d cent.,
with the inscription “Lucius Pompeius, Campanus, Vius fecit.” Behind the
arch is the chateau of the Marquis of Aix, now occupied by the Hôtel de
Ville and the post and telegraph offices. A handsome stone stair of
fifty-eight steps, under a quadripartite roof on round columns, leads up
to the various offices. At the top is the museum. On the ground-floor,
just beyond the foot of the stair, a door opens into what is called the
Temple of Diana, a large rectangular hall of coarse masonry, recently
restored. Adjoining are the Hotel de l’Arc Romain, 9-12 frs., the parish
church, and the park. The waters used for drinking are the cold sulphur
springs, situated a little way out of town.
The most powerful and peculiar is the spring at Challes, 900 ft. above
the sea, and 45 min. distant by omnibus from Chambery. _Hotels:_ Château
de Challes; Terrason; Ferret. It, like the others, is used for
indigestion and liver complaints, but especially for laryngeal
affections.
Nearly a mile from Aix by the Chambery road is the Marlioz mineral water
establishment, with hotel, furnished apartments, and villas, all within
a large park. The water is cold, sulphurous, and alkaline, with bromine
and iodine, and costs 10 c. the glass. About 20 min. walk from the town
by the Geneva road, near the village of St. Simon, is the Raphy spring,
frequently taken at meal-time and prescribed in certain gastric
diseases, dyspepsia, and nervous disorders of the stomach.
[Headnote: EXCURSIONS.]
+Excursions from Aix-les-Bains.+--The steamer on certain days makes the
tour of the lake, stopping at the principal places, of which the chief
is the Abbey of Hautecombe; fare there and back, with small boat and two
men, 9 frs. To Bordeaux and back, 5 frs.; Bonport, 4 frs.; Châtillon, 14
frs. Arrange price beforehand. No boat permitted to carry more than six
passengers. An hour on shore allowed. Drive round the lake--one horse,
11 frs.; two horses, 15 frs.
The Abbey of Hautecombe was founded in the 12th cent., but rebuilt in
1745. The church, containing 300 statues and many frescoes, is 215 ft.
long, the transept 85 ft., and the height of the roof 34 ft. The
interior, as well as most of the mausoleums, is of a soft white
fine-grained magnesian limestone, from the quarries of Seyssel, near
Culoz. The best of the statues are those of Charles Felix, King of
Sardinia (died 1821), and of Marie Christine, his spouse (died 1849), on
the right and left hands of the nave at the entrance. They are of
Carrara marble. In the chapel of Notre Dame de Compassion, in the
right-hand transept, is another beautiful group in Carrara marble; in
the left transept is a wood figure of St. Joseph, well executed.
About half a mile from the convent by a road following the shore of the
lake is an intermittent fountain, very irregular in its action. To reach
it continue the road till arriving at a clump of chestnut and
horse-chestnut trees, some having stone seats round the trunks. The
fountain is in the corner under the fourth tree. Near Hautecombe are the
village and castle of Bordeaux, founded in the 9th cent., over which
rises the Dent du Mont Chat (see p. 282).
_Other Excursions._--To the S.W. the Colline de Tresserve, 1109 ft.,
good views, chestnut trees, and the castle of Bonport. To the S.E. the
Roche du Roi, with quarries, which were worked by the Romans. The Rocher
de St. Victor, by the chestnut forest of Mouxy; there and back, 5 hours.
The mountains of the Grand-Revard and the Cluse, 5154 ft., by mule-path;
there and back, 6 hours. To the N. the cascade of Gresy, 45 minutes,
3 m. Gresy, with its keep, 12th cent. 5 m., the defile of the Combes and
the Prime rocks. To the N.N.W. the Montagne de Gigot, 2680 and 2762 ft.
[Headnote: GROTTO OF BANGES. LE CHÂTELARD.]
+Aix to the Grotto of Banges+, _by Gresy and Cusy_.-- Seat in car there
and back, 5 frs. About 3 m. from Aix is Gresy, with its pretty
waterfall. Beyond the village the road ascends by the stream Sierroz to
an undulating plain, on which is Cusy, 3½ hours from Aix. To the N., on
a rock rising from the Chéran, are the extensive ruins of a castle. On
the opposite bank are seen the hamlet of Aiguebellette and the castle of
St. Jacques, and, rising abruptly from the valley, three singular
obelisks of rock. 2 hours from Cusy the Chéran is crossed by the Pont de
Banges, and not far from this bridge, where the road is hemmed in
between the rocks and the stream, is the entrance to the Grotte de
Banges, containing a lake, 216 ft. below the level of the entrance,
approached by a gallery 270 yards long, hung with stalactites.
This road may be continued to +Le Châtelard+, 1¾ hour from the bridge,
2500 ft. above the sea; _Inns:_ Des Beauges; De la Poste; pop. 950. This
is the capital of the “Pays des Beauges,” occupying a plateau 13 m. long
and 8 m. wide, traversed from S.E. to N.W. by the Chéran, and surrounded
by steep rocks. Cheese-making, the rearing of cattle, and the
manufacture of articles in wood form the industries of the inhabitants,
of whom there are 10,000. Châtelard, in its social and geographical
position, resembles Le Beage (p. 84).
The road from Aix to Chambery is through the broad valley which
separates the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse from those of the
Beauges. Belonging to the former are Mont Grelle, 4649 ft., to the S.W.,
and Mont Granier, 6348 ft, due S.; while to the N.E. is the Dent de
Nivolet, 4597 ft, an advanced bastion of the Beauges.
At Aix-les-Bains, junction with branch to Annecy, 26 m. N., whence a
diligence starts daily for Geneva, 27½ m. farther N. by Brogny,
Cruseilles, and St. Julien (see map, p. 27).
+Aix-les-Bains to Geneva by Annecy and Annemasse, by rail.+
21½ m. by rail N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 3½ m. from Annecy, is
+Lovagny+, the station to alight at to visit the “Galeries des Gorges”
of the torrent Fier, about 10 minutes distant. From the station take
the road to the left, cross a bridge, and walk on to the châlet, where
refreshments are sold, and tickets, 1 fr. each, to visit the gorge,
which is of the same nature, though much superior, to the galleries of
Pfäffers. The gallery, or rather balcony, is 1162 ft. long, and on an
average 72 ft. above the torrent. It rests on iron brackets driven
into the face of vertical cliffs 310 ft. high, and on an average 8 ft.
apart.
3½ m. farther by rail is
+Annecy+, pop. 11,000. _Hotels:_ Angleterre, opposite the post office;
Verdun, at the head of the town, near the public gardens and the lake,
and not far from the steamboat-pier; Aigle; Savoie.
The steamboat sails from the side of the public gardens opposite the
Convent of St. Joseph. It makes the tour of the lake three times
daily. Diligence daily to Bonneville, 23 m. N., passing the villages
of Plot and La Roche; also to Albertville, 28 m. N., on the road to
Italy by the Little St. Bernard (see page 320).
This ancient town, with narrow arcaded streets, is situated on the
north-west end of Lake Annecy. The two most prominent buildings in
Annecy, as seen from the lake, are the Barracks, and the Castle of
Tresun, in which St. François de Sales, the founder of the Order of
the Visitation, was born August 21, 1567. Opposite the steamboat-pier
is another prominent edifice, the Church and Convent of St. Joseph,
both modern, but containing, in the garden behind, the first chapel
erected by St. Francis, dating from 1610. The house Madame Chantale,
his friend, inhabited adjoins this chapel.
The mortal remains of St. Francis are in a shrine above the high altar
in the Church of the Visitation, at the western side of the Rue
Royale. The house in which he resided is in No. 18 Rue St. Claire,
entrance at the left-hand corner within the court. The house in which
Madame de Warrens first received Rousseau stood in the parallel
street, behind the Rue de l’Évêché, on the site of that house next the
Episcopal palace, with railings in front. The best promenade is the
garden around the Hôtel de Ville at the head of the lake. It contains
a statue by Marochetti of the great French chemist, Claude Louis
Berthollet, born at Talloires in 1748.
The Lake of Annecy is 9 m. long, 2 broad, and 1455 ft. above the
sea-level. It is surrounded by vine-clad and wooded mountains, of
which the highest is La Tournette, on the eastern shore, 6260 ft.
above the lake. To ascend it land at the village of Talloires, where
there are a comfortable inn, the Hôtel de l’Abbaye, and guides.
Near the shore of the lake, on the side of a hill about 2 m. east from
Annecy, is the house in which Eugene Sué spent the last years of his
life. It is one-storied, with garret-windows, and behind a small
square tower. On the morning of August 1, 1857, he took his last walk
on the hill, returning from which fatigued he went to bed, and died
two days afterwards. The remains of Rousseau’s house are seen a little
farther south, above the village of Veyrier.
[Headnote: LESCHAUX.]
South from Veyrier, also on the lake, is the village of Menthon, the
birthplace of St. Bernard, the founder, in the 10th cent., of the
hospices of the Great and the Little St. Bernard. He is buried on the
right-hand side of the choir in the cathedral of Lausanne. At the
south extremity of the lake is the village of Doussard, at the
entrance into the dark gorge of the Combe Noire. Here a coach awaits
passengers for Faverges and Albertville, 18 miles south from Doussard.
In this neighbourhood the best mountain to ascend for the view is
Semnoz, 4148 ft. above the lake. The ascent is made from the
straggling village of Leschaux, 1590 ft. above the lake, 10 m. S. from
Annecy, and 14 m. N.E. from Aix-les-Bains. Donkeys can be hired at the
village. The ascent takes about 2 hrs. On the top is a comfortable
inn. Duingt, at the S.W. end, is the most picturesquely situated
village on the lake. (See map of Mt. Cenis, p. 291.)
3 m. N. from Annecy and 24 m. S. from Geneva is the village of Brogny,
where, in 1342, Jean Allarmet the swineherd was born, who became
successively Bishop of Geneva, Viviers, and Ostia, Archbishop of
Arles, and then a Cardinal. From Brogny the road passes the Pont de la
Caille, 18 m. from Geneva, a small village near the suspension bridge,
212 yds. long, across Les Usses, and 665 ft. above the bed of the
torrent. Higher up, in a ravine, are the baths of Caille.
[Headnote: CRUSEILLES.]
16½ m. from Geneva is Cruseilles, pop. 2000, and 2576 ft. above the
sea. The road from Cruseilles passes over the top of Mont Zion, 2586
ft., and then descends to Chable. 10 m. farther is St. Julien, 1535
ft., pop. 2500. French custom-house station, 6½ m. from Geneva.
[Headnote: CHAMBERY.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MODANE
{370¾}{60¼}
+CHAMBERY+, pop. 20,000, and 815 ft. above the sea. Passengers arriving
late should spend the night at Chambery, and next morning proceed to
Turin. _Hotels._--Princes, in the Rue de Boigne, near the fountain.
France, on the Quai Nezin. In the Rue d’Italie, the Poste and Europe,
near the theatre. In the Rue de la Banque is the Banque; and opposite it
is the Temple Protestant.
+Chambery+ is situated in a plain surrounded by high mountains. The
first object that strikes the stranger on arriving from the station is
the monumental fountain to General Boigne in the Boulevard du Theatre,
opposite the termination of the principal street, the Rue de Boigne. It
consists of four bronze elephants supporting a column crowned with a
statue of the General. At the other extremity of the Rue de Boigne is
the +Château+, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, built in
1230. The entrance is either by the stair in front or by the road round
from behind, which leads also to the Botanic Gardens. Within the
precincts of the château is the Préfecture, having attached to it one of
the old massive round towers, ascended by a most handsome staircase of
160 low broad steps to within a short distance of the top, attained by
36 more steps in two short flights. In the stair is the entrance to the
Museum, chiefly archæological. The Natural History Museum is in the
Botanic Garden. The view from the top of the tower is very pleasing, and
overlooks the whole of the town. Fee, ½ fr. Opposite the tower is the
Chapel of the Dukes of Savoy, 14th cent. Fee, ½ fr. The three tall
windows are filled with beautiful old glass. The roof is covered with
stone groining, with cleverly-executed arabesque painting between the
nervures. The roof of the cathedral is similarly painted, but on a blue
ground. It is situated near the Rue de Boigne, and was built in the
14th, 15th, and 16th cents.
[Headnote: CHURCH OF LEMENC.]
The Rue de Bourgogne, the second street to the right up the Rue de
Boigne, leads past the Hôtel de Ville and the post office to the Palais
de Justice, with the Jardin Public behind. In front of the Palais is a
bronze statue of the jurist, Antoine Favre, who died 1624. On a hill on
the other or eastern side of the railway are the Convent de la
Visitation and the Church of Lemenc. The upper church of Lemenc is of
the 13th or 14th cent., but the under church or crypt is of the 7th
cent. In the centre of the crypt is a curious baptistery, six feet in
diameter, under a peristyle. Beside it is an Entombment. In the upper
Church are the mausoleum of General Boigne and the relics of Saint
Concors, an Irish archbishop from Armagh, who died here 600 years ago.
His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children.
In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of
Madame de Warrens.
[Headnote: J. J. ROUSSEAU.]
+Excursions.+--The house which Jean Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on
the height called the Charmettes, 395 ft. above and 2 m. from Chambery
by a pleasant road shaded with walnut and plane trees. It is a mere
cottage. The room to the right on entering was the dining-room. It
contains in a drawer his watch, opposite the window his bookcase, and
hanging on the walls, facing each other, the portraits of himself and
of Madame de Warrens. The next room was their sitting-room; here are
his card-table and mirror. The room above was madame’s bedroom, and
the one over the dining-room Rousseau’s. From the garden the view
extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft., ascended from Chambery in
between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View not equal to that from the
Dent du Chat (p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the
foot of the Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge
of the Doria may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45
min. to the cold sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of Challes
(p. 284).
miles from PARIS
miles to MODANE
{376}{55}
+LES MARCHES+, a straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the
chapel and image of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and
back, are the Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by
a partial landslip of Mt. Granier.
{378}{53}
+MONTMÉLIAN+, pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Voyageurs. Junction with line to
Grenoble, for which change carriages (p. 338).
[Headnote: ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY.]
{358¼}{45¾}
+ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY+, 971 ft. (map, p. 291), pop. 3300, 1½ m. from its
station. _Inns:_ At station: H. des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche;
Soleil. Junction with line to Albertville, 14 m. N.E., whence diligences
to Annecy, 28 m. N., passing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through
Faverges; _Inn:_ Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice
on the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine
passes (see p. 321). From St. Pierre take the N. window of the carriage
to have a proper view of the immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous
rocks, which tower in many places almost vertically above each other.
These lofty walls afford protection from the chilling blasts to the
pretty villages, vineyards, orchards, and maize fields; which places
only at a little distance from these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards
cease a little above St. Michel, 2400 ft., but patches with vines may be
seen within 3 m. of La Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated
more or less in terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too
steep and arid.
[Headnote: AIGUEBELLE.]
{332}{39}
+AIGUEBELLE+, pop. 1100. H. de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch
to Charles Felix. The valley now begins to widen.
{409}{22}
+LA CHAMBRE+, pop. 800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc.
Afterwards, to the right, is the valley of the Glandon.
{414½}{16½}
+SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE+, pop. 3200. _Inns:_ Europe; Cheval Blanc;
Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in the 15th cent., contains the
mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some beautifully carved stalls. The
arcades of the cloister are of alabaster, and were constructed in 1452.
In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous mines of Rocheray and the
saline thermal springs of Echaillon.
{421}{10}
+ST. MICHEL+, pop. 3000. A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the
sea-level, in a hollow at the foot of high mountains. _Inn:_ Poste, near
the post office. From St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next
station is La Praz, 6 m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea.
[Headnote: MODANE.]
{431}{ }
+MODANE STATION+, 3445 ft. above the sea, and 727 m. from London, is
really part of the village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up,
and the train passes through it on the way to the tunnel. Large
refreshment-room at station. Opposite station--_Inn:_ Hôtel
International, where comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as
carriages to visit the neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of
the house. There are also several restaurants. Luggage from France and
Italy is examined here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is
charged. The scenery on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful,
and the traveller ought to endeavour to pass through it during the day.
The passage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no
part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is
reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m., with a gradient of 2½ per
cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and
5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated.
From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than
Modane, in 7½ hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a
little over 5, by Bardonnecchia.
[Headnote: LANS-LE-BOURG. LES TAVERNETTES.]
+Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis.+
From Modane a carriage-road leads over the +Pass of Mont Cenis+ to
Susa, 40 m. distant by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the
Arc up the valley is Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by
his doctor. Near this are passed the forts Esseillon or Bramans,
connected with the road by a steep winding path. 8¾ m. from Modane is
Le Verney, where the road crosses the Arc; 10¾ m. Solliers; to the
left, the valley of the Laisse or Doron; 16¾, Termignon, pop. 1080,
and 4251 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the Laisse with the
Arc, church with frescoes and a curious belfry; 18 m. Lans-le-Bourg,
pop. 1500, consisting principally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560
ft. above the sea, at the base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc
the ascent of the Pass is commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are
twenty-three houses of refuge. At the culminating point, 6882 ft.
above the sea, is the inn Ramasse. The road now descends. 13 m. from
Susa and 27 from Modane is Les Tavernettes, on a terrace 200 ft. above
the lake, which is 1¼ m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good
trout. This is one of the best headquarters in the Alps for a
naturalist. 10 m. from Susa and 29½ m. from Modane is the Hospice of
Mont Cenis, on the great plateau. 2 m. farther is the hamlet of La
Grande Croix, 6069 ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the
descent becomes more rapid. 4½ m. from Susa is the post-house of
Molaret, and about 3 m. more, or 1¼ from Susa, the hamlet of
Giaglione, with splendid views and rich vegetation (Susa, see page
291).
[Map: Mont Cenis Railway: St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the
Little St. Bernard. Modane to Susa by Lanslebourg.]
+PART II.--MODANE TO TURIN.+
See Map of Mont Cenis Railway.
miles from MODANE
miles to TURIN
{ }{58½}
+MODANE.+ At Modane passengers enter the carriages of the Alta Italia
Railway Company.
The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best
time-table for Italy is the “Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade
Ferrate,” 1 fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the
railway stations. Waiting-room is Sala d’Aspetto. W.-C’s., Cessi, or
Latrine, or Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking
carriages, Pei fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E vietato il fumare.
Way out, Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata.
{5}{53½}
+BARDONNECCHIA+, 4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della
Stazione, and in the town the Hôtel de France.
Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile
country than that above Modane.
{12}{46½}
+OULX+, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft. high. _Inn:_ Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, at the
station.
At this pretty little village the road from Briançon, 17 m. S.W. by
Mont Genèvre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte
Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius,
who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before
the beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, lib. iii.
cap. 20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the
road from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now
Embrun, on the Durance (see page 343).
{21¾}{36¾}
+CHIOMONTE+, 2526 ft. Beyond are some charming views.
{25½}{33}
+MEANA+, 1 m. from Susa, and 325 ft. above it. The train, having
traversed beautiful chestnut woods, crosses the Dora and arrives at
Bussoleno, 30½ m. from Modane, whence a loop-line of 5 m. extends to
Susa, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. _Hotels:_ France; Soleil.
This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who
inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft.
above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch
erected about 8 B.C. in honour of Augustus. It is adorned with
Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes on the entablature, but all
are in a decayed condition. The cathedral, San Giusto, dates from the
llth cent.
12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the
foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the
plain. On the summit is the convent of S. Michele della Chiusa,
founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially
repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. The government
intend to establish a meteorological station here. A good mule-path
leads to the top in about an hour, passing the village of S. Pietro,
with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea.
TURIN,
pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea, and
490 m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the tribe
Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the Romans.
When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city, that he
might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen speedily
from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of reserve of
Julius Cæsar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the Lombards it
was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite residence of
Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of S. Giovanni
Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in 1498. Francis I.
so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire reconstruction became
necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well paved, and pass through
spacious squares ornamented with statues and bordered by handsome
arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the western end of the
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. and the streets ramifying southwards from
this.
_Hotels._--The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello. In the same square, and less
expensive, is the H. di Londra. This piazza is in the neighbourhood of
the principal sights, and is the terminus of the most important trams.
The other first-class houses are: the *Torino, opposite the arrival side
of the station. The *Liguria, 14 Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via
Carlo Alberto. Their new house is at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the
English chapel and the Vaudois church. The Liguria is patronised by
Messrs. Cook. The H. Feder, 8 Via S. Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29
Via Roma, the Angleterre; and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via
delle Finanze; Bonne Femme (Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive:
H. *Suisse; H. Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France
et Concorde, Via dell’ Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di
Po; Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana
Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d’Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via Lagrange.
_Cabs._--One horse, from 6 A.M. till midnight, the course, 1 fr. First
half-hour, 1 fr. First hour, 1½ fr. Each successive half-hour, 75 c. The
course from midnight to 6 A.M., 1¼ fr. From the central station to any
part of the town, 1¼ fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, ½ fr.
additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a
cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway
carriage, 1 sou.
[Map: Turin]
Horse-trams traverse Turin in every direction; while the steam-trams run
from the city to the towns and villages not only within but beyond the
suburbs. The fare of the horse-trams is universally 2 sous; that of the
steam-trams from 12 sous to 3 frs. 18 sous. In the horse-trams no more
than four may occupy one seat.
[Headnote: STATIONS. POST OFFICE. BOOKSELLERS.]
_Stations._--The most important is the +Central Station+,
a well-situated and well-arranged and spacious edifice. On a tablet on
the departure side is an inscription to the honour of George and Robert
Stephenson. Parallel to the station is the wide and handsome Corso
Vittorio Emanuele, which traverses the city from east to west, having at
the eastern end the Po and the Giardino Pubblico, and at the western the
model prison, the Carcere giudiziario, the artillery barracks, and the
cattle-market. In front of the station is a bronze statue of Massimo
d’Azeglio, a poet and painter, who died in 1866, one of those who helped
to throw off the yoke of Rome. Behind the statue is the garden or Piazza
Carlo Felice, and the straight street, the Via Roma, extending to the
Piazza Castello, by the Piazza S. Carlo, with, in the centre, a bronze
equestrian statue, modelled by Marochetti in 1838, of Emanuele
Filiberto, Duke of Savoy, and son of Carlo III. il Buono. He died in
1580. The attitude is rather theatrical. The station for Rivoli, at the
west end of the Piazza dello Statuto, communicates with the P. Castello
by the Via Garibaldi. The Cirié Lanzo station is on the Dora, N. side of
plan, at the Ponte-Mosca. Opposite the Rivoli station, in the Piazza
dello Statuto, is a monument to the engineers of Mt. Cenis tunnel, in
the shape of a pyramid, 60 ft. high, composed of huge blocks of unhewn
granite, up which scramble discomfited, colossal, naked Titans in white
marble. On the pinnacle stands the Genius of Science, of a slighter
make, and on a tablet the names of the engineers, Sommeiller, Gratoni,
and Grandi.
_Post and telegraph offices_ are in the Piazza Carlo Alberto, by the
side of the Palazzo Carignano (p. 297). Stamps are sold at all the
tobacco shops. This piazza is close to the P. Castello, and connected
with the Via di Po by a lofty arcade, covered with glass, and bordered
on both sides with well-stocked shops.
_Booksellers._--For maps of Italy, Carlo Crespi, 2 Via Lagrange. For
guide-books, Loescher and Brero, both in the Via di Po.
Money-changers in the central railway station and in the principal
streets. In the main streets are also elegant Cafés, where the charge in
all of them for a good cup of coffee with a piece of ice is 6 sous. The
same price for an excellent ice cream heaped up in a glass.
_Theatres._--See list on plan. A short way east from the central
station, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is the Vaudois church, built in
1853. Adjoining are the Vaudois schools, and behind, at 15 Via Pio
Quinto, the Anglican chapel. Near the chapel is the synagogue,
a handsome edifice with square towers crowned with balloon-like cupolas.
[Headnote: SIGHTS.]
_Sights._--The museums and picture gallery (Pinacoteca) in the
“Accademia delle Scienze,” with one side to the Piazza Carignano and
another to the Via dell’ Accademia delle Scienze. Nearly opposite is the
Palazzo Carignano, containing the zoological and mineralogical
collections. The white marble statue in front represents the
philosopher, Vincenzo Gioberti, born 5th April 1801 in the house
opposite, 5 Via Lagrange, where a white marble tablet states: “II Conte
Camillo di Cavour naque in questa casa, addi 10 Agosto 1810. E vi mori
il 6 Giugno 1861.” The armoury, enter by door headed “Reale Armeria
Antica” under corridor, 13 Piazza Castello; adjoining is the Royal
Palace. On the other side of the palace is the cathedral, San Giovanni.
A walk down the Via di Po. Several drives in the horsetrams. All the
above places are near each other, around the Piazza Castello. The only
one that is at a little distance is the Museo Civico, up the side
street, V. Rossini, from the Via di Po. The Superga, by steam tram from
the Piazza Castello.
[Headnote: PALAZZO DELL’ ACCADEMIA. MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES.]
+The Museum of Antiquities and the Picture Gallery.+
The Palazzo dell’ Accademia delle Scienze, designed by Guarini, was
built in 1678 as a college for the sons of noblemen. It is a vast
earthy-coloured brick edifice, of which the ornaments, mouldings, and
cornices are also of dingy brick. On the ground-floor are the more
massive, and in the first story the smaller antiquities. In the second
story is the picture gallery, containing about 800 paintings in fifteen
rooms. Open daily from 9 to 4, 1 fr. On Sundays and feast-days free,
when it is open from 12 to 4. The large antiquities are contained in two
halls. +Hall 1.+ Left. In the centre, against the wall, under an
inscription in honour of the Egyptologist Champollion, is the gem of the
collection, a black basalt statue of Sesostris, Rameses II., 1388 B.C.
On his right, in rose-coloured granite, is the colossal statue of
Amenophis II., 1565 B.C., and on his left a small black basalt statue of
Amenophis II., the god Ptah. Opposite are three figures in a sitting
posture, representing the Egyptian Trinity, Osiris, Horus, and Isis. At
the head of this hall is the colossal red sandstone statue of Seti II.,
in whose reign the exodus of the Israelites took place. From this a room
ramifies at right angles, containing Greek and Roman statues, busts,
friezes, vases, etc.
Parallel to Hall 1 is +Hall 2+. At the head of this hall, in a sitting
posture, is the black basalt statue of Thothmes III., 1591 B.C., who was
one of the most powerful of the Pharaohs.
Upstairs, first floor, are the smaller antiquities, contained in three
large halls and several rooms. Near the centre of the first hall, left,
is the oldest of all the articles in the museum, the pedestal of a table
covered with hieroglyphics, supposed to have been made about 2654 B.C.
A little farther down, in the centre of the hall, under a glass case,
No. 13, is the Tabula Isiaca, a bronze tablet, 4 ft. long by 2 ft. 2 in.
wide, inlaid with hieroglyphics in silver, made at Rome in the reign of
Hadrian. Exactly opposite this tablet commences the passage that leads
to the smaller rooms. In the first room, left, in the corner, is a
colossal bust of Juno, hollowed, that the priest might the more easily
work the oracle. In the first room, right, is a mosaic pavement, found
at Stampacci in Sardinia. The rooms contain besides Phoenician
terracotta figures, Etruscan vases, statuettes, urns, reliefs, ancient
iron ornaments, lamps, etc.
The +Centre Hall+ contains idols, jewellery, amulets, sarcophagi,
mummies, Egyptian heads with the hair on, and bricks made by the
Israelites.
In the +Third Hall+ are the Papyri, of which the most important are: No.
4, near centre, against left wall, in second row, +The Book of the
Dead+, 35 ft. long and 8 in. wide, illustrated with plain vignettes.
Opposite, in centre of hall, is 126, fragments of the famous annals of
+Manetho+, which contained a list of more than 300 kings of Egypt down
to the 19th dynasty.
[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY.]
In the second story is the +Picture Gallery+. All the paintings are
labelled. In +Room 1+ are portraits of princes of the house of Savoy,
and battles in which they were engaged. +Room 2.+ In this room are
excellent specimens of the Turin painter, Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 49, St.
Peter and Donor; 52, Madonna and St. Elizabeth; 53, God; 54, Descent
from Cross; 57, Joachim driven from the Temple. +Rooms 3+ and +4+.
Italian pictures, Massimo d’Azeglio, another Turin painter, 90,
a Landscape. +Room 5.+ Italian paintings of the 14th, 15th, and 16th
cents.: Clovio, 127 bis, an Entombment, painted on silk; Bronzino, 127
and 128, Portraits of Eleonora da Toledo and her husband, Cosimo I. de
Medici. +Room 6.+ J. da Ponte (II Bassano), 148, Portrait; P. Caliari
(Paolo Veronese), 157, Queen of Sheba presenting gifts to Solomon;
A. Carracci, 158, St. Peter; Caravaggio, 161, Musician; J. Robusti (Il
Tintoretto), 162, The Trinity. +Room 7.+ Guido Reni, 163, S. Giovanni;
Spagnoletto, 174, St. Jerome. +Room 8.+ Enamels and paintings on
porcelain by Constantin of Geneva. +Room 9.+ A small room entirely
filled with fruit and flower pieces by Dutch artists. Between rooms 9
and 10 is a dark lobby, hung also with pictures. +Room 10.+ Continuation
of the Italian school, 16th, 17th, and 18th cents.: B. Strozzi, 232,
Portrait of Prelate; 251, Homer singing his own Songs; Paolo Veronese,
234, Mary Magdalene at our Lord’s Feet; Guido Reni, 235, Apollo; 236,
Cupids; G. Dughet (Poussin), 237, 238, Tivoli Waterfalls; G. F. Barbieri
(Il Guercino), 239, 262, *S. Francesca Romana, and in next room, Return
of Prodigal Son. +Room 11.+ A. Canale (Il Canaletto), 257 bis, Ducal
Palace, Venice; F. Albani, 260, 264, 271, and 274, The Four Elements;
S. Ricci, 272, Hagar sent away; 275, Solomon burns the Idols; C. Dolce,
276, Head of Madonna; B. Bellotto, 283, 288, Royal Palace, Turin; Old
Bridge across the Po. +Room 12.+ Flemish and German school: Acken
(Bosch), 309, an Adoration; G. Van Eyck, 313, St. Francis; Rogier Van
des Weyden, 312, *Madonna; F. Franck, 335, Room with Ladies and
Gentlemen; Van Dyck, 338, 351, The three Children of Charles I. of
England; *The Princess Clara Eugenia of Spain; Rubens, 340, Sketch of
his apotheosis of Henri IV. in the Uffici of Florence. +Room 13.+
Containing the gems of the collection: A. Mantegna, 355, Virgin, Child,
and Saints; L. Credi, 356, *Virgin and Child; G. F. Barbieri (Guercino),
357, *Virgin and Child; Hans Memling, 358, *The Seven Sorrows of the
Woman Mary; Saenredam, 361, *Interior of a Protestant Church, the
figures by A. Ostade; Van Dyck, 363, *Large equestrian portrait of the
Principe Tommaso di Savoia; his finest work is **384, Holy Family;
D. Teniers, 364, Tavern; G. Ferrari, 371, Jesus giving up the Ghost;
Raphael, 373, *La Madonna della Tenda; Donatello, 375, Virgin and child
in relief on marble; Sodoma, 376, *Death of Lucretia; P. Potter, 377,
*Cattle grazing in a meadow; H. Holbein, 386, Portrait of Erasmus. +Room
14.+ Dutch and German school: Picture by Jordaens; Sallaert, 398,
Procession in Brussels; Floris, 410, Adoration; P. P. Rubens, 416,
Resurrection of Lazarus; C. Vos, 417, Portraits of Snyders and his wife;
Teniers (the younger), 423, Card Players; Schalcken, 458, Old Woman.
+Room 15.+ French school: C. Gélée (Claude Lorrain), 478, 483,
Landscapes; I. Courtois (Bourguignon), 481, Cavalry Charge. Catalogues
sold of the contents of the museums and picture gallery.
[Headnote: PALAZZO CARIGNANO.]
+Museum of Zoology and Mineralogy.+
Opposite the Palazzo dell’ Accademia, but a little to the left, is the
Palazzo Carignano, also by Guarini, and also of earthy-coloured brick;
but the decorations are superior, more varied, and more pleasing than
those of the Palazzo dell’ Accademia. In large gilt letters, on the
façade fronting the Piazza Carignano and the statue of Gioberti, are the
words, “Qui nacque Vittorio Emanuele II.” Within is a high and spacious
court, surrounded by lofty halls, and at the east end, fronting the
Piazza Carlo Alberto, with the beautiful bronze monument to him by
Marochetti, cast in London, is the more pretentious stone façade, built
in 1871, but not in harmony with the rest of the building. (See also
p. 293.) In this palace, magnificently housed, are the zoological and
mineralogical collections. Open daily, 1 fr. Sundays and feast-days
free.
[Headnote: ROYAL ARMOURY.]
+Royal Armoury.+
No. 13 Palazzo Castello, open on feast-days from 11 to 3 free. On other
days procure admission from the secretary. This collection is of great
interest only to the inhabitants of northern Italy, as it is filled
chiefly with relics of their kings, dukes, and wars. In the first room
is “Favorito,” the favourite horse of the magnanimous Ré, Carlo Alberto.
Above it, near the roof, are numerous tattered flags taken in battle. In
the large hall are two rows of armed knights and foot-soldiers. At the
head of this hall, in a glass case, numbered 301, is an embossed oval
shield, inlaid with gilding, and surrounded by a fringe of massive gold
thread. On five medallions are represented, in _alto-relievo_, scenes
from the war of Marius against Jugurtha. It belongs to the school of
Giulio Romano, was executed probably in the latter half of the 16th
cent., and was presented to the university of Turin by the Princess
Vittoria di Sassonia Hilburghausen. Among the relics are the sword worn
by Napoleon at the battle of Marengo, the saddle of Charles V., and some
beautifully inlaid body-armour of the Dukes of Savoy. The large door at
the end of this hall opens into the “Medagliere del Ré,” containing
30,000 Greek, Roman and ancient coins and medals, including a complete
series of those struck in the State of Sardinia; and also 5000
medallions, seals and stamps. In this same part is the Biblioteca del
Ré, with 40,000 vols., 1800 MSS., numerous autographs, engravings and
drawings by the great masters. To visit these special permission must be
obtained. From the windows of the armoury is a view of the
palace-gardens. At the N.E. angle of the Piazza Castello is the Teatro
Regio, considered the finest work of Benedetto Alfieri. It is seated for
2500, and is open only during carnival and on extraordinary occasions.
In the absence of the royal family the palace may be visited. It is a
plain brick building, commenced in 1646, with the front to the Piazza
Castello, plastered to imitate stone. Having passed the main entrance,
turn to the left. At the end of this corridor is seen, through a glass
door, the equestrian statue of Vittorio Amadeo I. (died 1675) in a niche
at the foot of the grand staircase. The rider is in bronze, the horse in
marble. Ascend the marble steps, then, to the right, two flights of
narrow steps lead to the hall of the palace, where the servants will be
found who show the palace. Fee, 1 fr.; party, 2 frs. After the guardroom
succeeds a series of rooms with much gilding, inlaid floors, and rich
furniture. The pictures are all modern, and of no great merit. The room
called Maria Theresa’s contains some fine china vases.
[Headnote: ROYAL PALACE. THE CATHEDRAL.]
+The Cathedral.+
Adjoining the western end of the palace is the +Cathedral San Giovanni
Battista+. To the left of the altar is the pew of the royal family.
Behind the altar, and approached by two staircases of 37 steps each, is
the +Cappella del Sudario+ (open till 9 A.M.), a circular chapel,
separated from the church by a glass screen. It was built by Guarini in
1694, and is encrusted with the dark grayish-blue marble from Fabrosa,
near Mondovi, which brings out in striking relief the pure white of the
statues and the rich gilding of the ornaments, cornices, capitals, and
eight-limbed stars which spangle the interior. Double monolith columns
of the same dark marble, with bronze pedestals and capitals, support six
arches ornamented with diaper-work on the soffits. Above them rise six
smaller arches containing the windows, while the dome or cupola is
composed of an intricate series of interlacing zigzag arched ribs rising
from the second tier, and intermingled with loopholes, which throw light
in such a manner upon the star at the summit as to give it the
appearance of being suspended. The beautiful altar, lighted with gold
and silver lamps, has two faces, so that two masses are said before it
at the same time. The shrine on this altar is said to contain the shroud
(Sudario) in which Joseph of Arimathea wrapped the body of our Lord when
he laid Him in the tomb. Round the chapel are the beautiful white marble
monuments of three kings of the house of Savoy--Em. Filiberto (ob.
1580), by Marchesi; Carlo Emanuele II. (ob. 1675), by Fraccaroli; and
Amedeo VIII., first Duke of Savoy (ob. 1451), by Cacciatori. One prince,
the Principe Tommaso (ob. 1656), by Gaggini. In a sitting posture is the
lovely statue of Queen Maria Adelaide, consort of Vit. Em. II. (ob.
1855), by Revelli. The door behind the altar communicates with the upper
corridors of the palace. Outside the palace gates is +San Lorenzo+,
designed by Guarini, and finished in 1687. The interior is gorgeous, but
it is chiefly distinguished for the boldness of its arches.
[Headnote: THE CASTELLO.]
+The Castello.+
The large brick building in the centre of the Piazza Castello was
erected in the 13th century, and called the Castello till 1718, when it
became the favourite residence of the widow of Carlo Emanuele II.,
Madama M. G. Battista, who built the stone façade, and in honour of whom
it has ever since been called the Palazzo Madama. Before the seat of
government was removed to Florence the senators assembled in the great
hall of this palace. One of the towers is used as an observatory, and
another part of the palace by the “Accademia reale di Medicina,” who
here hold their meetings, and have also a museum of craniology.
[Headnote: MUSEO CIVICO.]
+Museo Civico.+
Via Gaudenzio Ferrari, No. 1, near the Via di Po. Open from 12 to 3,
1 fr. Sundays and feast-days free. First room, autographs and MSS. of
celebrated Piedmontese. +2.+ Water-colours, representing landscapes and
historical scenes in Piedmont. Under glass frame is a solid oblong
chased silver vase, 3 ft. and some inches in its greater diameter, and 2
ft. 8 inches in its smaller. At each of the two long ends is a lion’s
head with a ring in his mouth. Near this vase, and also under a glass
frame, and also in solid silver, are two candelabra, a vase, and two
flower-holders adorned with figures in relief. The first was presented
in 1871 by the English Government, and the other by that of the United
States to the Count Frederic Sclopis, President of the Geneva
arbitration in the Alabama question, and given to this institution by
his widow. None of them display much art; as for the English vase, it
needs only a lid to turn it into a respectable soup-tureen.
The rooms from +4+ to +11+ contain modern oil-paintings, some very good,
and all labelled. Down the centre are white marble statues; among the
best are Eve and the Serpent by Fantacchiotti, and the Crucifixion of
Eulalia by E. Franceschi. Second story.--Room +12+, Embroidery;
+13+, Miniatures and illustrated MSS.; +14+, Iron work; +15+, Carving
in wood and ivory--notice 947, Judgment of Solomon; +16+, Glass and
majolica; +17+, Italian porcelain; +18+, Busts; +19+, Small
oil-paintings and uniform of Azeglio; *20, Italian painted glass
from 1300; +21+, Egyptian pottery; +22+, Pottery and stone age.
[Headnote: VIA DI PO. UNIVERSITY. MADRE DI DIO.]
+The Via di Po.+
The finest of the streets is the +Via di Po+, which extends from the
Piazza Castello to the great rectangular square, the Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele, on the bank of the Po; and as both of these spacious squares,
as well as this magnificent street, are lined throughout with wide and
lofty arcades, they form together an excellent and interesting walk in
all weathers. The Via di Po is 768 yards long and 19½ wide, and the
pavement within the arcade 6½ yards wide. Good shops are ranged on both
sides of the street under the arcades. In the Via di Po is also the
University, built in 1713 by Vittorio Amedeo II., but founded in 1404 by
the Prince Lodovico di Acaia. It is attended by 2500 students, and
directed by 70 professors. The Library, open every day from 9 to 4,
contains 200,000 volumes and 3000 MSS. In the court are Roman
bas-reliefs, inscriptions, and statues, ancient and modern. Between the
Via di Po and the Piazza Carlo Emanuele ramifies the Via dell’ Accademia
Albertina, containing at No. 6 the Accademia Albertina delle Belle Arti.
Open daily. Apply to the custodi.
The +Piazza Vittorio Emanuele+ is 394 yards long and 121½ wide. In
front, on the other side of the Po, is a conspicuous church, the Gran
Madre di Dio, built in 1818, in the style of the Pantheon at Rome, by
Bansignori, to commemorate the return of Vittorio Emanuele I. to Turin
after the fall of Napoleon. A little to the right on a hill (Il Monte)
is a Capuchin convent, built towards the end of the 16th cent. The road
up is very easy, and the view from the terrace admirable. Immediately
above the Madre di Dio church is the palace, La Vigna della Regina,
built by Prince Maurice of Savoy, which after his time was inhabited by
one of the queens of Sardinia, from whom it acquired its present name,
“The Queen’s Vineyard.” It is now a government school for the education
of children of military men. Up the river, beyond the suspension bridge,
is the Castello del Valentino, distinguished from a distance by its four
pavilions with high-pitched roofs. It was built by the widow of Victor
Amadeus I., daughter of Henri IV. of France, and is now used as a
government school of civil engineering. It contains a good collection of
minerals, the larger part of which, obtained from Sardinian provinces,
are topographically arranged. The +Botanical Garden+ belonging to the
university is also here.
[Headnote: MONUMENT TO CAVOUR.]
+Monuments.+
In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza Castello,
is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupré of Florence, for which he
received £1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of Italy in
1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes in
bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic.
Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the
words, “libera chiesa in libero stato.” (See p. 294.) The climate of
Turin is more suitable for bronze than for marble statues. To the west
is the Piazza S. Carlo, with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto
(see p. 293). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is the remarkable,
almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di Savoia (brother
of V. Emanuele II.) at the battle of Novara in 1848. When about to lead
the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell, mortally wounded. The poor
animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth and outstretched neck, seems
about to breathe its last in an agony of suffering.
A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta is
the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di
Citta, or the Municipality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected
in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the
celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor
Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and
Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group
representing Count Verde (Amadeus VI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close to
this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior encrusted
with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and gilding. From
this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em. Filiberto, passing by
on the left S. Domenico, and on the right the Basilica. In S. Domenico,
in the first chapel to the right of the altar, is a picture of the
Virgin by Guercino.
[Headnote: LA CONSOLATA.]
Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church +La
Consolata+, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three
churches built at different periods. On the principal altar is a
miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining
walls is hung with pictures illustrating the cures and deliverances
effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious
Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria
Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit.
Emanuele, dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended
worship every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the
square outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected
in fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835.
In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72
ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the
ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns
which contributed to the monument.
[Headnote: CEMETERY.]
Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the cemetery or Campo
Santo of Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not
worth visiting. The inner or new part is a little better.
A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the
citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the
monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang
a mine at the cost of his own life.
[Headnote: LA SUPERGA.]
+La Superga.+
Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the
time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half
an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number,
the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram
runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele I., passes by the
western end of the church, the “Great Mother of God,” and descends by
the left side of the Po to the Cassale station, whence the ascent
commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and
opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards,
the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga
station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious
restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand,
for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is
probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the
main road to Turin.
The Superga is situated 4½ m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft.
above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost £100,000. It was
commenced by Vittorio Amedeo II. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to
fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the
French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the
duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara.
Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will be
found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first
hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes.
Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white
marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are
worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo
Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele III., 1701-1773;
towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a colossal white marble statue;
at left end, Vittorio Amedeo II., the founder, 1666-1732. In an
adjoining vault children under seven are buried.
[Headnote: VIEWS.]
From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery
outside the lantern. A door about 80 steps up opens into the gallery
round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is well
seen. The top of the lantern is 229½ ft. above the pavement of the
church.
The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from the
outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of
Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is
bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and
Mont Blanc on the other.
[Headnote: LAMPREDE. WINES.]
Among the delicacies of Turin are the lamprede, thin eels from 5 to 8
inches long, caught in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into
milk. The white truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked “à la
Piedmontese” or “à la fonduta,” and taken with a bottle of Asti wine,
make most enjoyable dishes. The vermouth of Turin is an agreeable
aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to table. The best wines of
Piedmont are the Caluzo, a white wine; the Barolo, a dryish red wine
with a taste of the soil; the Barbera, a strong red wine; and the
Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked bread in strips 18 inches long
and a quarter of an inch thick. In the Italian houses a handful of them
is put down to each cover at the dinner-table. They are made at very
many places besides Turin; even at Cannes on the Riviera. A great deal
of maccheroni (macaroni) is consumed in Italy. In Turin are important
silk mills.
Turin to Cuneo, 54¾ m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see p. 153). Turin to
Genoa, 103¼ m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p. 279). Turin
to Savona, 91¼ m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see p. 183,
and map p. 27). Turin to Florence, 291 m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria,
Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja (see p. 309, and map
p. 199).
THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES.
(See accompanying Map.)
The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid
trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants.
The chief town, Torre-Pèllice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34¼
miles S.W. from Turin by rail, passing by Pinerolo, 23½ m. S.W. from
Turin, and 10¾ m. N.E. from Torre-Pèllice. From Pinerolo a steam tram
runs 12 m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa, the second
Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram station is
near the railway station.
Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S.,
2 frs. 15 c. and 1 fr. 55 c., passing Osasco and Cavour. This tram
station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station.
The Italian steam trams run on single lines laid on one side only of the
highroads. Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt.
They afford excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run
neither so quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains.
Rail between Cuneo and Mondoví, 11½ m. E. and 58 m. S. by rail from
Turin. Mondoví, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; _Inn:_ Tré Limoni d’Oro. On
one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the other are the
inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill rising from the
river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On the top of the
hill is another town nearly as large as Mondoví (see p. 184).
The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys of
Pèllice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20 m. long from W.
to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the
isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000.
They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848
procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were
confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread
themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year
to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories
have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx
of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which
up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a
larger population of Romanists.
[Map: The Waldensian Valleys and the Passes between France and Italy]
These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize, wheat,
barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows of vines
on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach, apple,
pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded
mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only
high mountain in the territory is Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., between
the valleys of the Pèllice and the Po, which river has its source 6625
ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft.,
a short way south from Monte Meidassa by either the Col dell’ Agnello or
the Col Traversette, 9680 ft.
[Headnote: WALDENSIAN DOCTRINES AND PERSECUTIONS.]
The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side of
the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the
French side (pp. 344, 345), and, as there was constant communication
between them, French became the common language, as it is still in a
great measure. They consider themselves a part of the Apostolic Church,
which by its isolated position in the then almost inaccessible ravines
had escaped the early innovations introduced by the church of Rome;
albeit not altogether, for they admitted confession by contrite prayer
to God and the mention aloud of their sins to a priest, the power of
priests to bind and to loose, that sins were of two classes, mortal and
venial, and the efficacy of fasts and penance. At the Reformation all
these were swept away, and the doctrines and church polity of Calvin
adopted. The independent church of the Waldenses, or valley-people,
existed about a century before the arrival of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in
1180. Their name is supposed to be derived from “valle densa,”
contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally Vaudois. The first
serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun at the instigation
of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadée IX., Duke of Savoy. By
her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487 fulminated against the
Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed any of these heretics
were to be absolved from promises they had made, property wrongly
obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they were to have a
complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among the French
Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent.
[Headnote: TORRE-PÈLLICE.]
+Torre-Pèllice+, pop. 5200, _Inn:_ H. de l’Ours, good and comfortable,
is situated on the Pèllice and its affluent the Angrogna, 34¼ m. S.W. by
rail from Turin, 10½ m. from Pinerolo, and 1¼ m. from the station of
Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a
considerable town to the N. of the station. _Inn:_ Albergo del
Belvédère. Opposite is San Giovanni, a large unfinished-looking village,
with barracks, a “Tempio Evangelico,” and several elementary Protestant
schools.
Torre-Pèllice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley
enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the
Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for
girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph
office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the
Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and
dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many
Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made
the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant.
The wine made in the valley of Pèllice is principally red, and is drunk
in the second year. A beautiful walk extends up the valley of the
Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor, 4360
ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and schools.
Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350.
[Headnote: BOBBIO. MIRABOUC. COL DE LA CROIX.]
+Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin+ by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des
Pras, the Col de la Croix, La Monta, and Abriés, 47 m. W., 16 to 17 hrs.
walking. Up to Bobbio, 2838 ft, 7½ m. and 2½ hrs. walking, pop. 1520,
Tempio Evangelico, _Inns:_ Camoscio, etc., there is nothing particular.
Afterwards the valley gradually contracts till it becomes a mere gorge,
having at the entrance the ruins of Fort Mirabouc. At Mirabouc, 4718
ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house station,
5683 ft., about 3½ hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and accommodation
may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent of the Col,
7576 ft., 17 m. from Torre-Pèllice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding
a splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly
level, and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track
joins the char-à-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta,
Ristolas, Abriés, and Guillestre. (For Mont Dauphin and Guillestre, see
p. 344, and map p. 304.)
PINEROLO.
23½ m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10¾ m. NE. from Torre-Pèllice is
Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. _Inns:_ *Couronne d’Or; Campana; Cannon
d’Oro. A handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large Piazza
d’Armi, a good promenade, several hospitals, and representatives of the
chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public library, various
colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and another for music.
The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden, and a school for
girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a large seminary.
The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large staff of
dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is the Italian Alpine Club.
_Cabs_--the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1 fr. 75 c.; each successive
half-hour, 1 fr.
[Headnote: PEROSA. COL D’ABRIÉS.]
Near the centre of the town is the terminus of the steam tram to
Saluzzo, 2¼ hrs. Near the railway station is the terminus of the steam
tram to Perosa, 12 m. N.W. from Pinerolo. +Perosa+, 2015 ft., pop. 2400,
_Inn:_ H. National, agreeably situated on the Chisone near its junction
with the Germanasca. On the other side of the Chisone is Pomaretto, pop.
760, with a Waldensian chapel and school.
+Perosa to Mont Dauphin.+--There is a post-road up the Germanasca and
down the Guil, an affluent of the Durance, to Mont Dauphin, passing by
Perrero and Abriés. Abriés is 24 m. S.W. from Perosa and on the S. side
of the Col d’Abriés, and 21 m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin. (For Mont
Dauphin, see p. 344.) About 7 m. W. from Perosa is Perrero, 931 ft, pop.
560, on the Germanasca at its junction with the Germanasca di Massello.
From this the road, still ascending the Germanasca, turns southward, and
passing by the hamlets of Pomeifre, Fontana, Gardiola, and Bonous on the
Germanasca at its junction with the Rodoretto, arrives at Prali on the
Gormanasca, 4502 ft., pop. of district 1370, about 4½ hrs. walk from
Perosa. The road from Prali passes Cugno, Ghigo, Orgiere, and Pomé to
Giordano, whence it becomes a mule-path, which at the hamlet of Ribba
separates from the path to the Pass Giuliano, 8358 ft. to the S.E., and
continues in a S.W. direction by the Germanasca to the Col d’Abriés,
8677 ft., frequented even in winter. The summit is 3 hrs. from Prali,
and the descent to the village of Abriés by the hamlet of Roux, 2½ hrs.
(For Abriés and Mont Dauphin, see p. 344, and map, p. 304.)
[Headnote: FENESTRELLE. COL DE SESTRIÈRES.]
+Perosa to Cesanne+, 28½ m. N.W. by the river Chisone, Fenestrelle,
Pragelas, and Sestrières. 9 m. above Perosa is +Fenestrelle+, pop. 1120,
_Inns:_ Croce Bianca; Scudo di Francia, one of the strongest Italian
fortresses on the frontier. 7 m. from Fenestrelle is Pragelas, where the
valley becomes more Alpine in character. Other 4½ m. is Sestrières,
“whence the road mounts in zigzags to the Col de Sestrières, a nearly
level plain 2 m. long, commanding a good view of Mont Albergian. The
descent is by long windings to the level of the Dora, which is crossed
to reach Cesanne, 8 m. from Sestrières” (Ball’s _Alps_, p. 36). (For
Cesanne to Briançon by Mont Genèvre, see under Briançon, p. 333, and map
p. 304.)
SALUZZO.
+Saluzzo+ is 42¼ m. S. by rail from Turin, and 4 hrs. by steam tram from
the same city. Saluzzo is 2¼ hrs. N. from Cuneo by steam tram, passing
Cavour, pop. of district 7220. Coach daily to Paesana on the Po, 14 m.
W., fare 1½ fr.; also to Sampeyre, Albergo della Posta, 6 hrs. S.W., on
the Vraita; and to Barge, 1½ fr., _Inn:_ Lion d’Or.
The termini of the Cuneo and Saluzzo, the Pinerolo and Saluzzo, and the
Turin and Saluzzo steam trams are just within the town. The tram to
Pinerolo leaves Saluzzo near the railway station, passing by the marble
statue to the poet Silvio Pellico, born at Saluzzo in 1788, d. 1854.
Saluzzo, pop. 18,000, _Inns:_ Corona Grossa; Gallo, is a town of
considerable size, possessing great facilities for visiting various
places in the neighbourhood, either by tram, rail, or coach.
[Headnote: PAESANA. CRISSOLO. COL DE LA TRAVERSETTE.]
+Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin+, 65½ m. W. by Paesana, Crissolo, Col de la
Traversette, Abriés, and Queyras. Take the coach which starts in the
evening for Paesana on the Po, 1778 ft., with two fair inns, passing
Martiniana and Sanfront. Above Paesana the valley becomes very
picturesque and the view of Monte Viso gradually more and more imposing.
After having passed Ostana, 4266 ft., the road reaches the sanctuary of
San Chiaffredo, and a little farther on is Crissolo, 8 m. from Paesana,
4374 ft.
Next is the Borgo, 4954 ft., the highest village in the valley of the
Po, consisting of three hamlets, the lowest having a small inn. On the
opposite side of the valley and about 1 m. farther up is the cave,
Balma Rio Martino, 5020 ft., in strata of dolomite. The valley shortly
after becomes wild and Alpine, yet enclosing two small oases--the
+Pian Fiorenza+, 6034 ft., and the +Pian del Ré+, 6625 ft., containing
in summer a rich variety of rare Alpine plants. A little to the S.W.
of the Pian del Ré is the source of the Po. The road to the Col de la
Traversette leads N.W. from the Pian del Ré through a hollow covered
with snow the greater part of the year, whence the real ascent
commences. About 300 ft. below the crest and 9564 ft. above the sea
is the tunnel, generally closed with snow, pierced in 1480 by
Ludovico II. The summit of the pass is 9680 ft. and about 4 hrs.
ascending from Crissolo. The descent into the valley of the Guil is
by the Buco di Viso. On the French side, 1897 ft. below the summit, is
La Bergerie du Grand Vallon. (See Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo, p. 344, and
map p. 304; also Ball’s _Alps_, p. 22.)
CUNEO.
54½ m. S. from Turin by rail, and 2½ hrs. S. from Saluzzo by rail, is
+Cuneo+, 1500 ft., pop. 1200, _Inns:_ H. Barra di Ferro; Albergo di
Superga. Steam tram to Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, pop. 4600, 45 min. S.W.; also
to Dronero on the Maira, 1¼ hr. W. (See also pp. 182 and 279.)
Cuneo to Barcelonnette, 61¼ m. W., by Borgo-San-Dalmazzo, Demonte,
Vinadio, Bersezio, the Col de Largentière and l’Arche, the frontier
village of France, with two inns. (See under Barcelonnette; Cuneo to
Nice by the Col di Tenda, see p. 182.)
+Turin to Florence.+
291 miles southwards by Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and
Bologna. Time by quick trains, 13 hours. For London to Florence, and
through tickets, see the Continental Time-tables of the London,
Chatham, and Dover Railway, 3d.
miles from TURIN
miles to FLORENCE
{ }{291}
+TURIN.+ (For Asti, and the route as far as Alessandria, see p. 280, and
map p. 199.)
{81}{210}
+VOGHERA+, pop. 10,000, on the Staffora. _Hotel:_ H. Italia. Branch to
Pavia, 17 m. N., and Milan. Between Voghera and the next station,
Casteggio, is on the right Montebello, where the battle took place, 9th
June 1800, which preceded that of Marengo by five days.
[Headnote: PIACENZA. CATHEDRAL.]
{117}{174}
+PIACENZA+, pop. 36,000, on the Po. _Hotels:_ S. Marco; Italia; Croce
Bianca. _Cabs_--the course, 1 horse, 70 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. For the
first hour, 1 horse, 1 fr. 50 c.; 2 horses, 1 fr. 80 c.
In the middle of the town is the square called the Piazza de’ Cavalli,
from the two bronze equestrian statues of Duke Alexander Farnese and his
son Duke Ranuccio. On one side is the church of S. Francesco, and on the
other the Palazzo del Governo, and opposite it the picturesque +Palazzo
del Comune+, begun in 1281. The portico underneath is used as a market.
The upper part of the building is of red brick with handsome windows.
The principal street, the Strada Diritta, leads to the +Cathedral+
(1122-1233), containing some admirable paintings. In the interior the
arches are round, but the ribs of the roof meet at an angle. At the 3d
altar is a picture, by A. Sirani, of the Ten Thousand Martyrs; at the
4th a painting of the Death of a Saint. In the right transept is an
altar-piece, Three Saints, by Calisto di Lodi, and on the ceiling
frescoes by Agostino and Lodovico Carracci, in Correggio’s style. The
Coronation of the Virgin is by Procaccini. The +Cupola+ is divided into
eight compartments; six of them were painted by Guercino, with figures
of prophets and sybils; the other two figures were by Morazzone. Below
are four allegorical paintings by Franceschini. The roof of the crypt
under the church rests on 100 columns. S. Antonino (the former
cathedral) was commenced in the 10th cent., and restored in 1562. The
curious vestibule and the massive columns bearing the tower are relics
of the earlier edifice. At the W. end of the town is +Sa. Maria di
Campagna+, famous for paintings by Pordenone. On the left of the chief
entrance is a fresco by him of St. Augustine and five Angels; in the 1st
chapel left are two large frescoes, the Nativity of the Virgin and the
Adoration of the Magi. Crossing the transept we have on the left the
“Marriage of St. Catharine,” the faces being portraits of the Pordenone
family, and a fine fresco also by him, representing the dispute of St.
Catharine. By him are likewise the frescoes in the eight compartments of
the cupola; those in the pendentives are by B. Gatti. The most highly
decorated church is _S. Sisto_ (built in the 16th cent.), with an Ionic
atrium. Raphael’s Madonna, now at Dresden, was taken from S. Sisto.
The _Palazzo Farnese_ is a great, unfinished, building, begun in 1558 by
Margaret of Austria, now used as barracks. The Mandelli palace, now the
Prefettura, has a handsome façade. 24 miles to the south of Piacenza is
the site of _Velleia_, a town which was overwhelmed by a landslip in the
3d cent. Many interesting objects have been obtained there; which have
been deposited in the museum of Parma. In the vicinity are emanations
from the ground of carburetted hydrogen gas, which takes fire on the
application of a flame.
[Headnote: PARMA--MUSEUM.]
{153}{138}
+PARMA+, pop. 46,000, on the Parma. _Hotels:_ Albergo Centrale; Croce
Bianca; Leone d’Oro. Parma, although founded by the Boii, and conquered
by the Romans 183 B.C., is a neat clean town of modern appearance,
surrounded by bastioned walls. The most important of the edifices is the
Palazzo Ducale, forming, with the _Palazzo Farnese_, a large
unsymmetrical assemblage of buildings in the Piazza del Corte behind the
Piazza Grande. In the Ducal Palace is a collection of paintings
belonging to the French school. In the Farnese are the Museum of
Antiquities, the Picture-Gallery, the Library, and the Farnese Theatre,
now in a ruinous condition. It was built in 1620, in the time of Duke
Ranuccio, and for many years was the scene of splendid spectacles and
grand public entertainments.
_The Museum of Antiquities_ embraces a small collection, in four rooms,
of Roman altars, bronzes, busts, and mosaics, principally from Velleia
and Rome. Among the most remarkable, are “The Theft of the Tripoid,” in
1st room. In the 2d room, a statuette of Hercules intoxicated, and the
“Tabula alimentaria,” a rescript of the Emperor Trajan, relating to the
support of certain poor children. In 4th room, a bust of Maria Louisa,
the first Napoleon’s second wife, by Canova. Higher up on the same
staircase is the _Library_, with 150,000 volumes, and some thousands of
MSS., in several large galleries and halls, at the end of one of which
is Correggio’s fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin.
[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--CORREGGIO.]
_The Pinacoteca_ is on the same floor of the palace as the library, and
is open daily during the same hours. The collection is not large, but is
remarkable for the number and value of Correggio’s pictures. In
selecting the best pictures, we shall arrange the names of the painters
alphabetically to facilitate reference.
_Annibal Caracci._--Pietá. _Lodovico Caracci._--Funeral of the Virgin;
the Apostles at the tomb of the Virgin (two large pictures). _Cima da
Conegliano._--Two very good pictures. (+Correggio.+)--1. The Madonna
della Scala, a fresco. 2. The Flight into Egypt, known as the Madonna
della Scodella, from the dish in the Virgin’s hand. 3. _The Madonna
with St. Jerome_, sometimes called Il Giorno, from its bright daylight
effect and in contrast with La Notte at Dresden--this is Correggio’s
best picture here, perhaps it is the best picture he ever painted on
canvas, and it is universally considered one of the marvels of art.
The letters A. A. (Antonio Allegri) are worked into the silk that
covers the walls of the cabinet. 4. The Martyrdom of St. Placidus and
St. Flavia (such subjects are not agreeable, however skilfully
treated). 5. The Entombment. 6. Christ carrying his Cross (some
critics think this to be a work of Anselmi, others that it is an early
production of Correggio). 7. A Portrait attributed to him. (On the
walls of some of the rooms are the drawings that were made for Toschi
the engraver from Correggio’s frescoes at Parma.) _Albert Durer._--Man
with a Skull. _Francesco Francia._--Descent from the Cross; the Virgin
enthroned with Saints; the Virgin with the Infant and St. John (most
charming). _Garofalo._--Virgin and Child in the clouds, with a
landscape below. _Giovanni di San Giovanni._--A Singing party.
_Murillo._--St. Jerome. _Parmegianino._--The Marriage of St. Catharine
(an exquisite picture); Marriage of the Virgin; Portrait of a Man with
a music book (marked “incerto” on the frame). _Fra Paola da
Pistoia._--Adoration of Magi. _Pordenone._--Portrait of a Man with an
open book. _Raffaello(?)._--Christ in the clouds with the Virgin and
St. John, and Saints below (it is by no means certain that this is a
work of Raffaello). _Giuseppe Rosa._--Landscape with Cattle. _Lionello
Spada._--Fortune-telling, three figures; Marriage of St. Catharine.
_Spagnoletto._--Twelve pictures of Saints. _B. Schidone._--The
Entombment; the Maries at the Sepulchre; Virgin, Child, and St. John.
_Vandyck._--Virgin and Child; Portrait of an Old Lady.
_Velasquez._--Portrait of a Man in a black dress (there are other
portraits ascribed to him). _L. da Vinci._--Sketch of a Female Head.
_Zuccarelli._--River Scene.
_The Ducal Garden_, open daily to the public, is on the other side of
the river, and may be reached from the palace by a bridge called the
Ponte Verde. It is a large piece of ground, laid out in a formal style;
but when its chestnuts, limes, and acacias, are in leaf, it affords a
pleasant promenade. Within the grounds is a palace called Palazzo di
Giardino. The _Botanic Gardens_ are at the other side of the town, near
the citadel. The broad road near it, called the Stradone, is planted
with trees, and is a favourite place of resort for the town’s-people,
both in carriages and on foot.
[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.]
By a narrow street leading east from the Ducal Palace is the
+Cathedral+, a good specimen of Italian Gothic, built in the 13th and
14th cents. The portals are adorned with lions, by B. da Bisoni, 1281.
In the interior, along the top of clustered articulated columns, runs an
elegant triforium, and over it extends a lofty elliptical roof, painted
by G. Mazzola. The choir is above the level of the nave. Within the
great door, left side, is a portrait of Correggio, and on the other, one
of Parmegianino. _The cupola_ was painted by _Correggio_ (1526-30), with
frescoes representing the _Assumption of the Virgin_, but they are in a
ruined state. Those on the vault of the right transept were by a son of
Correggio, while those on the left transept were by Orazio Sammachini.
In the Capella dei Canonici, on the right side of the church, at the
foot of the choir-steps, is an altar-piece by B. Gatti; and near it a
poor bust of Petrarch, with an inscription recording that he was
archdeacon here. Beneath the choir is a spacious crypt, supported by
thirty-four marble columns. On the walls of the sacristy are frescoes of
the 14th century, and intarsias by L. Biancho.
[Headnote: BAPTISTERY--S. GIOVANNI.]
The _Baptistery_ is a lofty octagonal building (1196-1281), with four
deeply-recessed doorways, enriched with bas-reliefs. The four tiers of
open galleries with columns, and a fifth tier of engaged arches, the
pinnacled canopies at the top, and the ring of fantastic carvings below,
combine to render this one of the most remarkable buildings of its class
in Italy. In the interior there are two tiers of galleries, some rude
sculpture, and a profusion of fresco painting--old, but not of much
value. At the middle is a great font, hewn out of one piece of marble,
and having in the centre a place where the priest could stand, protected
from the water, whilst he immersed the child. The font at which the
Parmesans are now baptised is at one side, ornamented with carvings, and
supported by a marble lion. +S. Giovanni Evangelista+ (1510), a church
standing near the cathedral, and much visited on account of the
_frescoes painted by Correggio_ (1520-25) _in the cupola_; they
represent the Vision of St. John, and, though blackened and badly
lighted, they are fortunately in a better condition than those in the
cathedral. The figures are on a large scale, and include the Evangelists
and the Fathers of the Church, who look with astonishment at the glory
above. Correggio also painted in grey the decorations of the vault of
the sanctuary; and over the door of the sacristy in the left transept a
fresco of St. John. In the 1st chapel to the right of the principal
entrance is a good painting of the Modenese school, and the monument of
Sanvitale-Montenuovo; in the 2d an Adoration of the Shepherds, by
Giacomo Francia (the painter’s portrait is seen in the old man to the
left); in the 6th chapel is a copy of Correggio’s “Night,” now at
Dresden. On the arches of the 1st and 2d chapels on the left of the
entrance are much-damaged _frescoes by Parmegianino_ (four subjects);
and in the 6th chapel is a picture, by Anselmi, of Christ with his
Cross. The white marble holy-water fonts deserve notice. In the
adjoining _convent_ (now used as barracks) is a damaged fresco of two
children by Correggio.
[Headnote: S. PAOLO--CORREGGIO.]
Near the Piazza Grande is the church of the _Madonna della Steccata_,
from designs by F. Zaccagni in 1521. The best frescoes are by
Parmeggianino, Moses breaking the Tables of Stone, Adam and Eve, and the
Virtues, on the archway of the choir. On the vault over the high altar a
Coronation of the Virgin, by Anselmi. Gatti painted the cupola. The
wooden pulpit combines elegance with simplicity. A good Madonna in
corner chapel left of main entrance. Near the Piazza di Corte is the
church of S. Lodovico, and adjoining it the suppressed +Convent of
S. Paolo+, now a school. In this small building are the best preserved
works of Correggio, painted for the abbess of the convent on the walls
and ceiling of this her reception-room. The subject is Children, or
Amoretti, represented as being seen through the openings of a bower or
piece of trellis-work. Their varied attitudes are most charmingly
portrayed. Diana herself, whose Triumph is thus depicted, is painted
over the fireplace. Below the principal subjects are smaller figures in
grey. The frescoes in the next room are by Araldi. The custodian is
generally to be found in the picture-gallery.
The famous Parmesan cheese is made chiefly in dairies around Milan,
Lodi, and Pavia, and is called Formaggio di grana, because commonly used
in a granular form with soup. 17½ miles S.E. from Parma is +Reggio
Emilia+ (pop. 24,000). _Hotels:_ Posta; Cavaletto. _Cabs_--80 c. the
course; 1½ fr. the hour. _Sights_--Cathedral; house of Lodovico Ariosto,
born here 1474. His _Orlando Furioso_ went through sixteen editions in
the 16th cent. 9 m. N.E. is Correggio, the birthplace of the great
painter Antonio Allegri, called Correggio. To the Castle of Canossa and
back, 14 frs.
[Headnote: MODENA. CATHEDRAL--DUCAL PALACE.]
{185¼}{105¾}
+MODENA+, pop. 31,000. _Hotels:_ Reale; San Marco; Italia. Their
omnibuses await the trains. _Cabs_--one horse, 80 c. the course, 1 fr.
50 c. the hour; 2 horses, 1 fr. the course, 1 fr. 70 c. the hour.
Modena (_Mutina_, Lat.), the capital of the former duchy of Modena, is a
clean and well-built town surrounded by ramparts, some of which serve
the inhabitants as promenades. The country around is flat and fertile.
A canal connects the town with the Panaro, a tributary of the Po, by
which means water communication with the Adriatic is obtained.
The +Cathedral+, begun in 1099, is in the centre of the city. Its
exterior is irregular, and encumbered with houses. The principal façade
is small but pleasing, with a large rose window and three doorways. On
the side next the Piazza Grande is a handsome porch, with columns
resting on rudely-carved lions of red marble. The interior, though low,
and destitute of paintings of merit, is interesting, especially for the
sub-choral chapel, with a roof supported by many marble columns. At the
entrance of this chapel is a group of lions, and in one corner life-size
figures in coloured terra-cotta, by Begarelli, representing the
Nativity. In the church notice the holy-water fonts, which look as if
they were the hollowed capitals of ancient columns, and the stone pulpit
with bas-reliefs. On the right side of the choir are some curious old
bas-reliefs, including one of the Last Supper; and on the left side of
the choir is the mausoleum of the last Duke of the house of Este in the
male line, died 1803. The _Campanile_, one of the finest in Italy, 315
feet high, was erected in the 13th and 14th cents. It received the name
of Ghirlandina from its vane being ornamented with a bronze garland. At
the head of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the +Ducal Palace+, an
immense pile, containing the Picture-Gallery, occupying several halls in
the upper stories, with an entrance on the north side. It is open daily
from 9 to 4. The collection comprises between 500 and 600 pictures,
amongst which, though there are no _chefs d’œuvre_, are many good ones.
The gallery once ranked high amongst Italian galleries, but towards the
end of the last century 180 pictures were sold, including five
Correggios, to the King of Poland (they are now at Dresden); and the
Duke when expelled in 1860 took away with him a few more of the best. In
two of the rooms are glazed cases full of drawings and sketches by the
old masters. Amongst them is a drawing in sepia for Tintoretto’s
masterpiece, the Miracle of St. Mark at Venice. In a room kept locked,
but which the custode will open on application, are some interesting
cabinets (one designed, it is said, by B. Cellini, another of amber,
a third of tortoise-shell); also bronzes, carving in wood and ivory,
majolica, enamels, etc. Amongst other curiosities is a “Presepio,” with
numerous figures in coral, the metal work being of silver.
The _Library_, on the same staircase as the Pinacoteca, contains about
100,000 printed books (including 2500 quattrocentisti) and 3000 MSS.
placed in several halls, one of which is very large. Also a few Roman
and Etruscan antiquities, and the series of coins and medals struck at
Modena. In the suppressed convent of S. Agostino, near the gate of that
name, is the Museo Lapidario. Among the articles is a block of stone
obtained from the ancient Via Mutina, at a depth of 18 feet below the
surface. On the other side is a collection of mediæval tombs. In the
church of St. Agostino is a terra-cotta group, by Begarelli, of the
Entombment. M. Angelo spoke very highly of this artist’s works.
The _Ducal Garden_ is a prettily laid out piece of ground, which is open
to the public daily from the early morning to the evening.
[Headnote: BOLOGNA.]
{208¼}{82¾}
+BOLOGNA+, pop. 91,000. _Hotels:_ Brun; Italia; Bologna; Aquila Nera;
del Pellegrino; Tre Re; Venezia; Commercio. _Restaurants:_ Stelloni;
Felsineo. Omnibuses from the hotels meet the trains. _Cabs_--one horse,
the course, 75 c.; by the hour, 1 fr. 50 c. To or from the railway
station, without luggage, 1 fr.
Bologna is a walled city, with twelve gates, situate on a fertile plain
near the foot of the Apennine range. The Bolognese school of painting is
called the Scuola Caraccesca, from its founders, Lodovico Carracci (b.
1555, d. 1619), and his two cousins Annibale (b. 1560, d. 1609) and
Agostino, a man of erudition, who furnished the general plan of the
pictures. Their most distinguished pupils were Guido Reni (b. 1575, d.
1642), Domenichino (b. 1581, d. 1641), Lanfranco (b. 1581, d. 1647), G.
Barbiere, called Il Guercino, from his squinting (b. 1590, d. 1666),
Michel-Angiolo da Caravaggio (b. 1569, d. 1609), and Carlo Cignani (b.
1628, d. 1719); beautiful specimens of whose works are to be seen in the
various churches, but especially in the picture-gallery of the
“_Accademia delle Belle Arti_,” situated at the north-east end of the
town, near the Porta S. Donato (see plan). It occupies eight rooms of
the first floor, contains 360 paintings, all bearing the names of the
artists, and is open from 9 to 3. Free on Sundays. The gem is St.
Cecilia, by Raphael.
The other best works are:--12. _Guercino_.--St. William; 13, St.
Bruno; 15. St. John the Baptist; 18. St. John the Evangelist. 26.
_Bugiardini_.--Marriage of St. Catharine. 34. _Agostino
Caracci_.--Last Communion of St. Jerome, one of his finest paintings;
35. Assumption. 36. _Annibale Caracci_.--Virgin and Child, with Angels
and Saints; 37 Virgin enthroned, with Saints. 39, 40. _Lodovico
Caracci_.--Assumption; 42. Saints (Bargellini portraits) adoring the
Virgin and Child; 43. Transfiguration; 44. Calling of St. Matthew; 46.
St. John the Baptist; 47 to 53. Pictures by the same artist. 70. _M.
Desubleo_.--Christ appearing as a Pilgrim to St. Augustine. 75.
_Lavinia Fontana_.--St. Francis de Paul. 78. _Fr. Francia_.--Virgin
and Saints (1490), extremely fine; 79. Annunciation; 80. Virgin and
Saints; 81. Virgin and Saints. There are several other unnumbered
pictures by this master on frames. 84. _Giacomo Francia_.--Virgin and
Saints; 85. Virgin and Saints. 89, 90. _Innocenzio da Imola_ (an
imitator of Raffaello).--Virgin and Saints. 122. _Nicola da
Cremona_--Descent from the Cross.. 134. _Guido_.--Madonna with the
Protectors of Bologna; 135. Massacre of the Innocents; 136.
Crucifixion; 137. Samson with the Ass’s Jawbone; 138. The Virgin of
the Rosary (this is on silk, and was carried in processions); 139.
Bishop Corsini; 143. Portrait of a Carthusian. 152. _Raphael_.--ST.
CECILIA, with other Saints, listening to the Music of the Angels (the
instruments of secular music lie broken on the ground). This
celebrated composition, painted in 1515, is well known from copies and
engravings. 175. _Elisabetta Sirani_.--St. Anthony of Padua; 176.
Madonna. 181. _L. Spada_.--Melchisedec blessing Abraham. 183.
_Tiarini_.--St. Catharine of Alexandria. 197. _Perugino_.--Virgin and
Saints. 204. _Timoteo delle Vite_.--Magdalene. 206.
_Domenichino_.--Martyrdom of St. Agnes; 207. Madonna of the Rosary;
208. Martyrdom of St. Peter of Verona (the same subject as that
treated by Titian in a picture lately burnt at Venice). 212.
_Unknown_.--Sleeping Child. 291. _Desubleo_.--St. John the Baptist.
292. _Innocenzio da Imola_.--Virgin and Saints. 294.
_Bugiardini_.--Madonna. 360. _Aluno_ (_Nicolo da Foligno_).--Virgin
and Saints (given to the Gallery by Pius IX.)
[Headnote: PICTURE-GALLERY--UNIVERSITY.]
In the same building is a collection of old arms and armour
(_Oploteca_), and on the ground-floor a few good modern pictures.
A collection of original drawings is preserved in the library.
Nearly opposite the Accademia is the University, with about 430
students, directed by 59 professors, of whom, among the most famous,
have been Galvani, the first that observed the phenomena of Galvanism,
Laura Bassi, a lady professor (d. 1778), and Giuseppe Mezzofanti (d.
1849), who spoke fluently upwards of forty-two languages. From the tower
is a good view of the town. Attached to the University is a Museum of
Antiquities and a Library. The Geological Museum is in a separate
building. From the University, walking towards the leaning towers, we
pass, in the Strada Donato or Luigi Zamboni (see plan), the oratory of
St. Cecilia, the church of S. Giacomo, and (14) the Palazzo
Maloezzi-Medici; and shortly after, stand below two of the peculiar kind
of watch-towers used in Italy during the middle ages.
[Map: Bologna]
[Headnote: S. GIACOMO.]
_S. Giacomo Maggiore_ was built in 1267, but subsequently restored. In
the 6th chapel right is a fine work by Bart. Passarotti, the Virgin on a
Throne, with Saints; in the 7th, Prospero Montana’s St. Alexis; in the
8th, Innocenzo da Imola’s Marriage of St. Catharine; in the 11th, three
pictures by Lor Sabbatini; in the 12th, two frescoes by Pellegrino
Tibaldi, the Baptism in the same chapel is by P. Fontana. At the end of
the church, to the left of the altar, is the Bentivoglio chapel, with
Francesco Francia’s best work, a “Madonna,” the lunette above by Giacomo
Francia. The 5th, 7th, and 10th chapels, on the left side of the church,
contain good pictures, and in the 9th is Samacchini’s Presentation in
the Temple, which was engraved by Agostino Caracci.
[Headnote: THE TWO TOWERS.]
In St. Cecilia are frescoes representing the legend of St. Cecilia and
St. Valerian, by F. and G. Francia, Costa and Amico Aspertini. During
the French occupation they were considerably damaged. At the
commencement of the Strada Donato are the +Two Towers+ (28 in plan),
seen from a great distance. The taller, the _Torre degli Asinelli_,
commenced in 1109, is 272 feet high, with an inclination of 3½ feet, and
ascended by a rickety dirty staircase of 447 steps to the summit, whence
there is the best view of the town. The Torre Garisenda, commenced in
1110, is 139 feet high, with an inclination of 8½ feet. From the towers,
the Mercato di Mezzo leads W. to the _Piazza Vittorio Emanuele_, with,
on the S. side, the church of S. Petronio; on the N., the Palazzo del’
Podesta; on the E., the Pal. dei Banchi; and on the W., the Pal.
Pubblico, an immense edifice, commenced in 1290, consisting of various
buildings thrown together. In front is the Fountain, by Laureti, adorned
with a statue of Neptune, by Bologna.
[Headnote: S. PETRONIO.]
+S. Petronio+, commenced in 1390, but still unfinished, is of brick, and
in the pointed arched Gothic style. The doorways of the façade are
remarkable works; the middle one was by Jacopo della Quercia (1425). In
the interior, notice on the right side the stained glass of the 4th
chapel; Sansovino’s statue of St. Anthony of Padua, and Treviso’s
grisaille pictures relating to that saint in the 9th chapel; the windows
are said to be from M. Angelo’s designs; in the 11th chapel,
a bas-relief, an Assumption, by Tribolo, with Angels at the sides,
attributed to Properzia de’ Rossi, a Bolognese lady (d. 1535), who was
at once painter, sculptor, engraver, and musician. The campanile is over
this chapel. The large fresco of the choir is by Franceschini. On the
floor of the left aisle is the meridian line traced by Cassini in 1652.
In the 1st chapel, on this side, is some modern Milanese glass; in the
7th, a Madonna, by L. Costa; and in the 10th, Sa. Barba, by Tiarini. At
the southern end of the church is (29 in plan) the Biblioteca Comunale,
in the building called the Archiginnasio Antico, originally the
University, before it was removed to its present edifice. Besides the
Library, open daily from 10 to 4, it contains a valuable Museum of
Antiquities. Between S. Petronio and S. Stefano are (17) the _Pal. della
Mercanzia_, the Chamber of Commerce, erected in 1294; (18) the Pal
Pepoli, 1344; and (9) the Casino. [Headnote: S. STEFANO.] +Santo
Stefano+ is a combination of ancient churches, chapels, and courts, on
the site of a temple dedicated to Isis. Enter first the Church of the
Crucifix, so named from the old painting at the great altar. In the 1st
chapel on the right is a picture by Muratori; in the 2d on the left St.
Elisabetta, by Gessi. Then pass through a small chapel into the circular
chapel styled San Sepolchro, which contains the tomb of St. Petronius,
with curious carvings, and a miraculous well, considered to have healing
virtues. This building is thought to have been formerly the baptistery
of the next chapel (originally, perhaps, the principal chapel),
dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. From a small court, called the
Atrium of Pilate, from its alleged resemblance to that at Jerusalem, we
gain access to the chapel of the Trinity, which contains four marble
columns said to have belonged to the temple of Isis, and some pictures
by Tiarini and others. There are ancient mural paintings in the
sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation; and in the subterranean
chapel of the Confession, a broken column is shown which is said to
afford the measure of the Saviour’s height. After visiting a cloister,
where the columns show much variety of form, we have made the complete
tour of this singular labyrinth of buildings, which are of great
interest to the ecclesiologist. Behind Santo Stefano in the Strada
Maggiore are (beginning at the leaning-towers’ end, see plan), 2, S.
Bartolommeo; 23, the Pal. Zampieri; 24 is the house of the celebrated
composer Rossini, built by him in 1825. On the opposite side is the
church Ai Servi, and No. 13 the Pal. Hercolani, once famous for its
collection of pictures. [Headnote: S. BARTOLOMMEO. PAL. ZAMPIERI.
S. DOMENICO. GUIDO’S TOMB.] _San Bartolommeo_, built in 1653, has some
fine marbles and rather a gaudy dome. In 4th chapel right an
“Annunciation,” by Albano. The paintings behind the high altar are by
Franceschini. In the left transept, an oval picture of the Madonna, by
Guido. The Latin inscription on the wall relates how it was returned
from London in 1859. _Palazzo Zampieri_ (admission, ½ fr.), although
deprived of most of the pictures, still retains the admirable frescoes
by Agos. Annibale, and Lod. Caracci and Guercino. The church of _Ai
Servi_, built 1393, has a fine interior, with thin columns. In the 2d
chapel left is a “Touch-me-not,” by Albano; and in the 4th, a St.
Andrew, also by him. In the 6th chapel an “Annunciation” by Inno da
Imola. South from the principal square is (No. 1 in plan) the church of
+S. Domenico+, attached to a convent where St. Dominic lived and died.
The church dates from the 12th cent., but restored in the 18th.
Interior--2d chapel right, Miracle of Ferrerio, by D. Creti. Right of
south transept--the splendidly decorated chapel of _St. Dominic_, with
his sarcophagus ornamented with bas-reliefs, by Nic. di Pisa. The
garlands and statuettes were by Nic. di Barri (Arca), 1469. The kneeling
angel on the right, and St. Petronius, over the sarcophagus, were by
Michael Angelo in his youth. The base of the tomb, with its bas-reliefs
illustrating the life of the Saint, was not added until 1532, a work of
Alfonso Lombardi. On the beautiful ceiling of the chapel is a fresco by
Guercino, “The Transformation” of St. Dominic. The painting of the Saint
burning Heretical Books (on the left wall) is by L. Spada; that of the
Saint recalling a Child to Life is by Tiarini. In a chapel on the right
side of the high altar is the Marriage of Saint Catharine, by Filippino
Lippi. The Adoration of the Magi at the high altar is by Bart. Cesi. In
the left transept should be noticed the tomb of a Pepoli (1348), and on
the wall a portrait of St. Thomas Aquinas, considered here an accurate
likeness, though painted 100 years after the death of the saint.
Opposite St. Dominic’s chapel, and in the north transept, is the chapel
of the Rosary, containing in the centre, under a slab, the grave of
Guido Reni (b. 1575; d. 1642). Near him lie the remains of his favourite
lady pupil, Elizabeth Sirani, who, with her master and the Caracci,
executed the small paintings which adorn the frame of the reredos of the
altar in this chapel.
[Headnote: S. PIETRO.]
Directly north from the Palazzo Pubblico is S. Pietro, rebuilt in 1605,
containing, on the arch above the high altar, an Annunciation, the last
painting by Lodovico Caracci, who died a few days after finishing it.
Near S. Pietro is a small church Madonna di Galleria, with, in 1st
chapel left, St. Philip Neri, by Guercino, and in the next, a fine
Albani. N.E. from S. Pietro is S. Martino, 1217, restored. In the 1st
chapel right, Giorlanno da Carpi’s Adoration of the Magi; and in the 5th
chapel on the left side is an Assumption, attributed to Perugino; in the
next, a St. Jerome, by L. Caracci; and in the chapel next the entrance,
Madonna and Saints, by F. Francia. Old monuments in the cloisters. East
from the leaning-towers is S. Vitale, consecrated in the fifth cent.,
and lately restored. At the 2d altar, right, is a Flight into Egypt, by
Tiarini; in a large chapel on the left, Angels, with a beautiful
landscape, by F. Francia; and at the first altar in the body of the
chapel on the left, an Adoration of the Infant in Perugino’s manner.
ENVIRONS OF BOLOGNA.
Beyond the Porta Maniola are the convent and church of the +Annunziata+.
In the 2d, 3d, and 4th chapels of the church are three pictures by
L. Costa, and in the Chapel of the Sacrament a Madonna by Lippo
Dalmasio. In the choir is a very fine work by Fr. Francia (1500), and in
the sacristy an Entombment by Giacomo Francia.
[Headnote: MADONNA DI S. LUCA. THE CERTOSA.]
Beyond the Porta di Saragossa is the much-visited church of the +Madonna
di S. Luca+, on the top of a hill commanding a beautiful view. It is
approached by a portico of 640 arches, which begins just beyond the
gate, and extends to the church, a distance of nearly 3 m. This portico
was begun in 1672, but many years elapsed before it was finished. The
church derives its name from possessing a picture reputed to have been
painted by St. Luke. The best pictures have been removed from the
church. Outside the same gate is the Certosa, formerly a Carthusian
convent, now a cemetery. The church contains some pictures, and the
chains of some Algerine slaves with the amount of ransom attached to
each.
269¾ m. from Turin and 21¼ from Florence is Pistoja (see p. 231), and
291 m. from Turin is Florence (see p. 233).
+St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard.+
(74 m. N.E. See Map, page 290.)
miles from ST. PIERRE
miles to COURMAYEUR
{ }{74}
+ST. PIERRE D’ALBIGNY+ (see p. 289), 15 m. S.E. from Chambery, and
45½ m. N.W. from Modane.
{14}{60}
+ALBERTVILLE+, pop. 5000 on the Arly, and 1180 ft. above the sea.
_Inns:_ Million; Balances. A diligence runs between Albertville and
Annecy, 22 m. N.
{22}{52}
+LA ROCHE CEVINS+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Croix Blanche; Lion d’Or. Hidden
and sheltered behind a great rock which closes the valley. 2 m. beyond
is the defile Pas de Briançon.
{31}{43}
+MOUTIERS+, pop. 2100, and 600 ft. above the sea-level, on the
confluence of the Doron with the Isère. _Inns:_ Couronne; Courriers. One
mile from the town is the Roc du Diable, rising to the height of 8200
ft. At the base are the salt springs, utilised both by salt-works and a
bathing establishment. From Moutiers the road extends up a narrow and
picturesque defile, following the course of the Isère, past St. Marcel,
pop. 500, then ascends to the summit of a rock called the Detroit du
Ciel, 945 ft. above the bed of the river, where the valley is only 145
ft. wide; and after this enters a rich plain with the village of
Centron. On the opposite side of the river is Mont Jovet, 8375 ft.,
commanding a splendid view. Then, after passing the village of Villette,
pop. 500, we reach
[Headnote: AIME.]
{41}{33}
+AIME+, pop. 1100, and 2385 ft. above the sea-level. _Inn:_ Petit St.
Bernard. This, the “Forum Claudii et Axuma,” possesses remains of
extensive Roman fortifications, and a very ancient church called St.
Martin, built of stones from Roman buildings. 4 m. beyond is Bellentre,
pop. 1100, on the Isere, where the culture of the vine ceases. The Pass
of the Little St. Bernard comes into view.
{50}{24}
+BOURG ST. MAURICE+, pop. 2600, and 2780 ft. above the sea. _Inns:_
Voyageurs; Royal. A village consisting of one long street, near the
confluence of the Isère with the Versoyen and Nantet.
[Headnote: SEEZ.]
{52}{22}
+SEEZ+, the ancient Sextum, a pretty village between six mountains, pop.
2600, and 2985 ft. above the sea-level. From Seez the road passes the
village of Villard-Dessus, and then crosses the Recluse by a lofty
bridge near an escarpment of gypsum, called the Roche Blanche, supposed
to be the place noticed by Polybius, where Hannibal posted himself to
protect his cavalry and beasts of burden. 3 m. beyond is St. Germain;
the last inhabited village during the winter. From St. Germain the
ascent is easy to the
{58½}{15½}
+HOSPICE+, 7077 ft., founded by St. Bernard of Menthon, on a grassy
plain 3 m. long, and about a mile from the summit (7193 ft.), indicated
by the Colonne de Joux, Jovis, or Jupiter, 23 ft. high, of Cipolino
marble. From the Hospice, Mont Belvidere, 10,093 ft, may be ascended.
About 300 paces from the column is the Cirque d’Annibal, consisting of a
circle of large stones lying on the ground, where Hannibal is said to
have held a council of war, 218 B.C. A few miles below are Cantine des
Eaux Kousses, with a small inn, and Thuile, a hamlet, 4685 ft. above the
sea-level, 9 m. from Courmayeur.
[Headnote: PRÉ ST. DIDIER.]
{70}{4}
+PRÉ ST. DIDIER+, pop. 1300, on the Doire. _Inns:_ Poste; Pavilion.
Junction with road to Aosta, 23 m. E. (See map, p. 290.)
{74}{ }
+COURMAYEUR+, 4211 ft., the highest considerable village in the valley
of Aosta. _Inns:_ Royal; Angelo; Mont Blanc; Union. A public coach
leaves daily for Aosta by St. Didier. Fare, 7 frs.; time, 5 hrs.
Courmayeur is frequented by Piedmontese in considerable numbers every
summer, both on account of the mineral springs in its neighbourhood and
for the sake of the exquisite freshness of its climate. The waters,
which rise from alluvium, are saline and purgative. Those of La Saxe are
sulphureous. All who have visited Courmayeur, under favourable
circumstances, agree in considering its position one of the finest in
the Alps. Six different routes diverge from Courmayeur--the road to
Aosta; that of the Little St. Bernard; the Allée Blanche; the Col du
Géant; the Col Ferret; and the Col de Serène, leading to the Great St.
Bernard.
+Paris to Modane by Lyons, Voiron, and Grenoble.+
From Paris to Modane by this route the distance is 476 m., and Modane
to Turin 50 m. farther. This is the route to take for the Baths of
Allevard, the Monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and for Grenoble,
which is one of the nearest railway stations to Mont Pelvoux and the
other lofty mountains in the Dauphiny. The best resting-places are
Dijon, Lyon, and Grenoble.
(Map, page 304.)
miles from PARIS
miles to MODANE
{ }{476}
+PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon,
where buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. From Paris to Lyons follow
pp. 1 to 29, and examine the maps referred to.
{318}{158}
+LYONS.+ Perrache station. (See p. 29.)
{325½}{150½}
+ST. PRIEST+, pop. 2800. In the old castle here Charles VII. confined
his son Louis XI., then the Dauphin.
[Headnote: BOURGOIN.]
{344}{132}
+BOURGOIN+, pop. 5200. _Inns:_ Europe; Parc. Situated among 16,000 acres
of bog, producing large quantities of peat. 10 m. farther is La
Tour-du-Pin, pop. 3200. _Inn:_ Poste. On the Bourbre.
{358}{118}
+ST. ANDRE-LE-GAZ.+ A coach at this station awaits passengers for
Chambery, 32 m. E., passing by Les Echelles, whence the Chartreuse may
be visited.
[Headnote: VIRIEU.]
{363}{113}
+VIRIEU+, pop. 2000. With a large old 14th and 16th cent. castle, in
good preservation, containing tapestry and portraits, 16th cent.
[Headnote: CHABONS.]
{368}{108}
+CHABONS+, pop. 2000. 5 m. distant is Lac Paladru, 3 m. long and 160 ft.
deep, surrounded by wooded slopes studded with villages. At the N. end
of the lake is Paladru, pop. 1000.
[Headnote: RIVES.]
{371}{105}
+RIVES+, pop. 2900. _Inn:_ Poste. Situated about 1 m. from the station,
on the Fure. It has some of the largest paper-mills in France, as well
as some considerable forges. A great proportion of the inhabitants
employ themselves in the weaving of silk and linen by hand-looms. The
parish church was built in the 14th cent. Here are the ruins of the
castle of Châteaubourg, destroyed by Richelieu in 1626. Branch line from
Rives to St. Rambert, 35 m. W., on the Lyons and Marseilles line (see
page 43).
[Headnote: VOIRON.]
{378}{98}
+VOIRON+, 939 ft., pop. 12,000. _Hotels:_ Louvre; Cours; Poste. Coaches
and gigs await passengers for the +Grande Chartreuse+, 15 m. distant by
the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, which is 9 m. from Voiron and 6 from
the Grande Chartreuse. Fare, 5 frs. Voiron is a busy town on the river
Morge, with important silk, linen, and cloth manufactories. Here the
monks of the Grande Chartreuse have large premises for the sale of their
famous cordials, which they distil, not in the monastery itself, but in
a large building a little beyond St. Laurent. The road from Voiron to
the Grande Chartreuse joins the road from Voreppe just before reaching
the village of St. Laurent-du-Pont, distant from both stations 9 m.,
1344 ft., pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Princes; Nord. After leaving St. Laurent we
pass on our right the distillery of the monks, and then ascend by a
narrow gorge, among fine woods and perpendicular cliffs, to the convent,
consisting of an immense square building, garnished with pavilions,
situated on a narrow plateau 3200 ft. above the sea-level, at the base
of the Grand Som, which towers 3460 ft. higher, easily ascended from
this place in about 3 hrs. This monastery, the head establishment of the
Carthusian friars, was founded by St. Bruno, the originator of the
order, in 1084. At first it consisted only of a small chapel, with six
poor cells, the habitations of St. Bruno and his followers, built in
what was then an almost inaccessible spot among rocks and forests.
The Grande Chartreuse now contains from 70 to 75 monks, each provided
with a suite of three small upper and two lower chambers, and a small
garden. They pray 3 hrs. every day, the rest of their time being
occupied in cultivating their gardens and working at any of the
handicrafts they understand, and in the preparation of their simple
vegetable fare. On Thursdays they take together a 3 hrs. walk in the
surrounding woods, during which time they may converse; and on
feast-days they all dine together, when also they may converse. Animal
food and linen clothing are prohibited. At 7 A.M. they attend mass,
excepting on Sundays, when the hour is 8 A.M. Vespers are said at 4
P.M., and matins at a quarter to 12 midnight. Visitors who wish to see
the monks should endeavour to be at the chapel-door at any of these
hours. For gentlemen guests there is ample accommodation in the convent,
clean beds, three large dining-rooms, good wholesome food and excellent
water. The men-servants, of whom there are 59, inhabit the top story;
the wives, however, of these servants, not being allowed to enter the
convent, dwell in a house a few yards distant kept by nuns. It is in
this house also that ladies who accompany gentlemen must lodge, as no
female is allowed to enter the monastery.
Their principal revenue is derived from the sale of the liqueurs they
distil at St. Laurent, and which are sold both wholesale and retail at
Voiron, at the following prices:--Liqueur verte, 8 frs. the litre
bottle; liqueur jaune, 6 frs.; liqueur blanche, 4 frs.
From the monastery the ascent is made of the Grand Som, 6660 ft., in
about 3 hrs. It is necessary to make a considerable detour before
commencing the ascent. The first point reached is the Chapelle St.
Bruno, erected on the supposed site of the Hermitage. The view from the
top, though limited, is very beautiful. Coach to Grenoble, 17½ m. S.,
5 frs. Guests in the monastery should pay 6 to 7 frs. per day.
[Headnote: MOIRANS.]
{381½}{94½}
+MOIRANS+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de Paris. Junction with branch line to
Valence, 50 m. S.W., passing, at about half-way, +St. Marcellin+, pop.
4000. _Inns:_ Poste; Courriers. From St. Marcellin a coach runs daily to
the picturesque village of Pont-en-Royan, on the Saône, 11 m. S., whence
another coach runs to Die by the Grands Goulets and Chapelle. (For Die,
see p. 47.)
[Headnote: VOREPPE.]
{385}{91}
+VOREPPE+, pop. 3000. _Inn:_ Paris. Passengers for the Grande Chartreuse
may alight here also, from which it is 15 m. distant.
[Headnote: GRENOBLE.]
{394}{82}
+GRENOBLE+, pop. 46,000, and 702 ft. above the sea, beautifully situated
on the Isère, by far the greater part being on the left bank, while on
the other there is a mere strip hemmed in between the river and the
steep declivities of the Bastile. _Hotels:_ in the Place Grenette, the
*Monnet; Europe; the two principal hotels. Fronting the promenade, in
the Rue Montorge, is the Trois Dauphins, frequented by commercial
travellers. Napoleon I. on his way from Elba lodged in this house from
the 7th to the 9th March 1815. He slept in room No. 9. Among the cheaper
second-class houses are the H. des Alpes; Marseille; *Bayard; all near
each other and to the Place Grenette. Of the small houses at the
station, the best is the H. Savoie. Temple Protestant at the W. end of
the Rue Lesdiguières. Pleasant excursions for a very small sum may be
taken to all the important places in the neighbourhood by means of the
rail and the diligences and omnibuses which start from the Place
Grenette. On the road to the railway station is a large and handsome
hospital, founded in the 11th cent, by St. Hugues. A little way down, on
the other side of the river, is the Esplanade, a very large oblong
square, 430 yards by 120, surrounded by trees, much frequented on
feast-days. The band plays in the Jardin de Ville, off the Place
Grenette.
[Headnote: COACHES. BASTILE. BAYARD. ST. ANDRÉ.]
From the Place de la Halle coaches start for Sassenage, Nogarey,
Seyssenet, and Seyssins; from the P. Notre Dame for Domene and Gières;
from the P. Grenette for La Chartreuse, time 4 to 5 hrs., fare 5 frs.;
also to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans, 6 frs., 7 hrs.
The most important place to visit in the neighbourhood is the summit of
the Bastile, 915 ft. above the river. To reach it cross the river by the
bridge highest up, then ascend by the first road to the left in the
village of La Tronche, beyond the gate. After numerous windings by a
bullock-cart-road through vineyards, on the side of the mountain exposed
to the S., a square house is attained on the plateau behind the fort.
The view is magnificent, but it is still better from the peak
immediately above, where there is one of the quarries of argillaceous
siliceous limestone, extensively used for making cement. Ascend either
by the continuation of the same bullock-road or by the steep footpath.
The isolated mountain, so prominent from the village of La Tronche, is
Mt. Eynard, 4846 ft. Although Grenoble is of great antiquity, all that
remains of its early history are some fragments of the walls built by
Diocletian. The most interesting of the buildings is the Palais des
Dauphins, now the Palais de Justice. In the square in front is a bronze
statue of Bayard, one of the most illustrious heroes of a chivalrous
age, esteemed by his contemporaries the model of soldiers and of men of
honour. Born in 1476 at the neighbouring castle of Pontcharrá, he died
at Rebecq on the 30th April 1524 from wounds received at the battle of
Romagnane, and was buried in the church of the Minimes, 1¼ m. from
Grenoble, whence in 1823 his ashes were removed to the church of St.
André and deposited in the tomb in the N. transept. +St. André+, founded
in the 13th cent., was the private chapel of the Dauphins. From the
intersection of the transepts rises a fine tower, terminating with a
steeple 183 ft. high. Adjoining is the Hôtel de Ville, fronting the
promenade. The tower of the 12th cent, attached to the Hôtel de Ville
stands on foundations laid by Diocletian.
[Headnote: LIBRARY.]
E. by the Rues du Palais and Brocherie is Notre Dame, from the 10th to
the 15th cent. Next the altar is a beautifully-wrought stone tabernacle,
and behind it, in the aisle, the chapel of St. Hugues, 13th cent. At the
S. end of the town are the best streets and houses, the Place de la
Constitution, and the Botanic Gardens. The Préfecture occupies the
entire S. side of the “Place.” Behind are the Botanic Gardens and the
Natural History Museum. Opposite the Prefecture, in a handsome building,
are the class-rooms of law, science, and literature. On the E. side are
the Artillery School and a large handsome edifice containing the public
library and the picture gallery. It is 279 ft. long and 156 ft. wide,
and cost £67,585. +The Library+, open every day except Monday, contains
150,000 vols. and nearly 2000 manuscripts. There is a comfortable
reading-room open to all. The great hall, 204 ft. long and 44 ft. wide,
is lined with shelves of books in three stages, and lighted by handsome
cupolas. Round the sides, under glass, are displayed richly-illuminated
manuscripts, while down the centre are other glass cases containing
medals and antiquities, many belonging to prehistoric times. Among the
MSS. is a Bible (imperfect) translated into French by Raoul de Sestre in
1377 by order of Charles V.; also a New Testament, 12th cent., and
another in Vaudois, 13th cent.
[Map: The French Waldensian Valleys]
[Headnote: PICTURE GALLERY. MUSEUM.]
The Picture Gallery, open also every day excepting Monday, contains 550
paintings in four spacious halls, of which the centre one is the largest
and contains likewise the best pictures. The principal artists
are:--Albani, Alfani, Allori, Battoni, Bellini, Blanc-Fontaine,
Bloemaert, Bloemen, Bol, Bonifazio, Bouchet, Breughel, Bronzino,
Canaletto, Ph. Champaigne, Cock, Coypel, Crayer, Dagnan, Desportes,
C. Dolce, Gustave Doré (landscape), Dubuisson, Faure, Feti, Flink,
Foschi, Fouquières, Fragonard, Franquelin, Tadeo Gaddi, Gautier, Claude
Gellée, Gerard, Giordano, Glauber, Guardi, E. Hebert, Heusch, Holbeina,
Jordaens, Jouvenet, G. Lacroix, Lafosse, Lanfranc, Lepic, Licinio,
Maltais Le, G. Manni, Massé, Meulen, P. Mignard, Millet, Monnayer,
Montessuy, Moor, J. Ouvrié, Pannini, Parrocel, Perugino, Piombo,
Procaccini, Rigaud, Rivera, Romano, Roos, Rubens, Ruisdael, Rysbraek,
Salvator Rosa, Sassoferrato, Sneyders, Sueur, D. Teniers, Terburg,
Thielen, Thulden, Tintoretto, Uden, Valentin, Van den Veldt, Van Loo,
P. Vannucci, Verelst, P. Veronese, Vos. Off the last room of the picture
gallery is a chamber containing the busts and portraits of the most
famous Dauphinois. Round the room are the Dauphins, Dukes Guigues I. to
VI., Jean I. and II., Humbert I. and II.--Bayard, 1476-1524;
Lesdiguières, 1543-1626; Vauconson, 1709- 1782; Condillac, 1715-1780;
Champollion, 1791-1831, etc. Upstairs is a collection of valuable
antique furniture, porcelain, carved ivory, and other ornaments; also
one of those models of the Bastile which were distributed among the
eighty-three departments of France after the fall of that stronghold of
despotism on the 14th of July 1790. On one side of the picture gallery
is the Rue Lesdiguières leading to the Temple Protestant. On the way is
passed the entrance to the Botanic Gardens, with the Museum of
Mineralogy and Natural History. The great interest of the museum
consists in the well-arranged collection of specimens illustrating the
organic and inorganic products of this part of the Alps. The birds and
ores are well represented. Near the gate leading out to La Tronche is
the church of St. Laurent, 11th cent. The crypt, 6th cent., is supported
on twenty-four slender marble columns from 4 to 5 ft. high.
[Headnote: MANUFACTURES.]
Twelve million pairs of gloves are manufactured annually at Grenoble,
representing a value of £1,600,000. The material is given out to the
workmen, both men and women, upwards of 25,000, who make it into gloves
in their own houses. Certain improvements introduced by Xavier Jouvin in
1840 gave a great impulse to the glove trade and manufacture of
Grenoble, but for some years both have been seriously on the decline.
Excellent liqueurs, principally of cherries, are made in the department.
The wines are indifferent, chiefly because the vines are not well
selected.
Courrier every night at 9 to La Motte, 15 m. N., for 2 frs. Returns next
day at 8. Coach daily to Barcelonnette, time 11 hrs. (see p. 341),
passing Monètier, Allemont, the ancient Roman station of Mutatio on the
Roman road and the Durance.
7½ m. N.E. are the ruins of N. D. de Chardavan, in a narrow valley.
1¼ m. N.E. is St. Geniès, with a saline sulphurous spring, and strata
of anhydrite gypsum, black marble, anthracite, and lead ore.
[Headnote: SASSENAGE.]
3¾ m. N. from Grenoble by the Pont du Drac is Sassenage. Omnibuses
start from the Place Grenette, fare 40 c. The Sassenage et Noyarez
omnibuses leave their passengers at the entrance into the town near
the H. Faure, but the Sassenage-Fontaine omnibuses go up to the
“Place” and stop before the inn *H. du Commerce. To the left of the
inn is the house of the guide for Les Cuves, whose services are
necessary to be able to cross the Furon and the torrent from the
Cuves. This is a most enjoyable little trip from Grenoble, and
Sassenage itself makes a very pleasant residence in May. An immense
number of small vehicles are constantly running to the Pont du Drac;
whence it is a very pleasant walk of a little more than 2½ m. to
Sassenage. The suspension bridge over the Drac was one of the first of
this kind constructed in France, but instead of being hung on chains
it is supported by long narrow plates held together by strong pivots.
The gigantic and lofty cliffs about Sassenage are composed of
limestone strata of great thickness, much valued for building
purposes. The path to the Cuves commences at the left side
(approaching) of the H. du Commerce, and, having passed through a
doorway, enters a kind of park and ascends by the right side of the
Furon. About 1½ m. up is a great cavern, so sharply cut that it looks
as if it had been made artificially, out of which rushes a copious
stream of pure water. After crossing the torrent, an ascent is made of
a little more than 150 ft. to an enormous vault, within which are two
caves, called Les Cuves, out of each of which rushes a great volume of
water, which united passes under the cavern below called the Four des
Fées. After this two or three beautiful cascades, quite near, are
visited, and the Furon is crossed and the return made by the left side
of this most picturesque river. From the Cuves side is seen part of
the ruins of the old castle of the Berangers, to which a series of
steps leads up, commencing near the mills, left bank. Their modern
castle, built in the 17th cent., stands within a large park adjoining
the village. The large halls are furnished with antique furniture and
hung with paintings, a large proportion being family and historical
portraits. The bedrooms of the marquis and marchioness are hung with
old tapestry. The so-called Sassenage cheese is made in the mountains
around Villard and Lans, some miles to the south of Grenoble. The
general quality is not so good as formerly, as more of the cream now
is used for making butter.
[Headnote: GRENOBLE TO BRIANÇON.]
+Grenoble to Briançon by Bourg d’Oisans+ and the Col de Lautaret (see
map p. 304). Distance, 69 m. E. Diligence daily. When there is much
snow, the Col is passed on sledges. Time, 15 to 18 hrs., according to
the state of the road. Fare, 16 and 14 frs. As the diligence from
Briançon to Grenoble stops several hours at Bourg d’Oisans, it is a
good plan to alight there for the night. This magnificent
mountain-road, commenced by Napoleon I. in 1804, opened in 1842, and
finished in 1868, makes a charming walking excursion; while from
almost every village grand mountain tours may be made. Bourg d’Oisans,
with a comfortable inn, the H. de France, makes capital quarters.
There are besides very fair inns at Le Freney, H. d’Europe; La Grave,
H. Juge; Le Dauphin, Inn Dode; Le Monètier, H. Alliey, and even in the
Hospice itself on the top of the Pass, where beds and food may be had
at most reasonable charges.
[Headnote: CLAIX. VIZILLE. SÉCHILIENNE.]
5 m. from Grenoble by a straight road bordered with elms, between the
river Drac and the railway, is the village of Claix. _Inn:_ H. de
France, with a bridge across the Drac, having a span of 85 ft. and 53
ft. above the river, built in 1611 by Lesdiguières. 5½ m. farther S.
by a road between poplars is +Vizille+, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Imbert;
Lion d’Or, near each other; their omnibuses await passengers at the
station. A manufacturing town on the Romanche, in a valley between
high mountains. 15 m. from Grenoble is +Séchilienne+, pop. 1300.
_Inn:_ Petit Versailles, where the horses are changed. A village of
one street, magnificently situated, 1182 ft. above the sea, in the
valley of the Romanche, surrounded by steep mountains towering above
each other. To the S. is Mont Taillefer, 9390 ft., ascended from
Séchilienne in about 6 hrs. In 1½ hr. the hamlet of La Morte is
reached, whence the ascent lies through pastures and pine woods to
some steep rocks. The track then, leaving on the right a small tarn,
keeps along the base of the rocks to an abandoned mine, where it runs
along the ridge called the Arete de Brouffier, overlooking the valley
of the Combe de Valloire on the right and the Combe de Gavet on the
left. The ridge leads to a small plateau, usually covered with snow;
whence a second ridge leads up to the highest peak.
From Séchilienne the diligence passes through the hamlet of
Riouperoux, in a narrow defile, among broken masses of rocks brought
down by the terrible flood of the 14th September 1219, which desolated
the plain from Oisans to Grenoble. 22 m. from Grenoble is the hamlet
of Livet at the foot of the Grand Galbert, on the Romanche near its
junction with the Olle. Up the Olle are the foundries of Allemont and
the argentiferous lead mines of Chalanche. Here is also the Pointe de
l’Infernet, 8184 ft., at the entrance to the defile leading up to the
Bella Donna.
[Headnote: BOURG D’OISANS.]
29 m. from Grenoble is Le Bourg d’Oisans, 2190 ft, pop. 3100. _Inns:_
France; Milan; Poste. As the diligence from Briançon remains at the
Bourg some hours, it is a good plan to break the journey here and
start next morning. The village is situated near the Romanche,
surrounded either by the vertical cliffs of mountains, upwards of 1000
ft. high, or by their steep but carefully-cultivated slopes studded
with houses and hamlets. An easy excursion of 4 hrs. may be made to
Lac Blanc, 6170 ft. above Le Bourg, one of the highest lakes for its
dimensions in the Alps. It is nearly ½ m. long and 110 yds. wide, and
commands an extensive view. From the Bourg a tract mounts nearly due
N. in 3 hrs. by the villages of La Garde and Huez to the plateau of
Brandes with ruins attributed to the Romans, abandoned mines and
valuable deposits of anthracite worked in several places. 1 hr.
farther is Lake Blanc.
[Headnote: ROAD TO THE ECRINS.]
Many interesting mountain excursions may be taken from this town, of
which the most important is to the Ecrin Group, by Vosc, 7½ m., St.
Christophe 13 m., and La Berarde other 10½ m. Entire distance to La
Berarde from Oisans, 23½ m. A few miles above Oisans we leave the
narrow gorge of the Romanche and follow the course of the Venéon to
the hamlet of Pont Ecofier, commanding a magnificent view of the whole
valley of Oisans, confined in its mural precipices, terminated by the
distant peaks of the Bella Donna. In the extreme distance a glacier
summit rises in glorious perspective precisely in the prolongation of
the valley; while midway stands Venosc, pop. 900; _Inn:_ Paquet, on an
elevated slope, clothed with exquisite verdure and noble walnut woods,
on the right bank of the Venéon. Exactly opposite Venose are the green
pastures leading to the Col de la Muselle, 8300 ft. As the tributary
valleys do not join the principal valley at common level, but are
considerably higher, a waterfall, often of great beauty, almost
invariably accompanies the meeting of the streams. In ascending the
valley of St. Christophe the gorge soon becomes narrower, the rounded
forms characterising the intruded lias are quickly left, and, the
torrent having been passed on a substantial bridge, a very short
distance brings us to a scene of sublime desolation. A mountain on the
right hand has at some remote time crumbled into fragments and
literally filled the valley from side to side with a colossal heap of
ruins. Through and amongst these winds a narrow path practicable for
mules, whilst the river dashes from rock to rock with excessive
commotion, sometimes passing under the fragments which it was unable
to displace. One huge slab of granite, wide enough for three carriages
to pass abreast, forms a natural and ponderous bridge, harmonising
with the desolation of the scene. On the right stands the romantic
village of Enchastraye, a hamlet consisting of a few houses perched on
a projecting rock in a tributary valley above one of the beautiful
cascades. [Headnote: ST. CHRISTOPHE. LA BERARDE.] Not much farther on,
the road leaves the stream and leads up the face of a rough hill to
+St. Christophe+, pop. 600, which gives its name to the valley. Just
before reaching the hamlet a bridge crosses a very wild and narrow
cleft, through which foams a wild glacier stream called the Torrent du
Diable. 2 hrs. farther up the valley is the village of Les Etages,
commanding one of the finest Alpine views which the admirers of Swiss
scenery can desire, terminated by the Montagne d’Arsine, standing
immediately above the hamlet of La Berarde. It presents a series of
rocky pinnacles in manifold rows, between which the snow can scarcely
adhere; and as seen from Les Etages, especially by the morning light,
is comparable to the Aiguilles of Mont Blanc, while the valley which
stretches beyond it to the foot of Mont Pelvoux may almost rival the
scenery of the Allée Blanche. +La Berarde+, which is placed in the
midst of this savage landscape, consists of a few poor houses, with a
small chapel distinguished from the rest by a belfry. Cultivation
ceases just at the village; a few stunted pines are found still higher
up, but there is no wood worth mentioning in the valley above Venose.
This excessive sterility peculiarly characterises the valleys of
Dauphiné. The village of La Berarde is at a height of only 5710 ft.,
that of St. Christophe is 4825, and of Venose 3365, but the character
of the scenery is, like that of Switzerland, at a greater elevation.
The unbroken rocky surfaces deceive the eye to such an extent that it
is difficult to realise the enormous scale of these mountains. To
ascertain their height we must attempt to mount them, and even then
the eye has some difficulty to submit to the testimony of the limbs.
The ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins is made from La Berarde, but it is
extremely dangerous. Mont Pelvoux is not accessible from La Berarde,
but is ascended from Val Louise (see p. 333, and map p. 304).
[Headnote: LE FRENEY.]
+Continuation of Road from Grenoble to Briançon.+
After Le Bourg d’Oisans the road ascends by the side of the Romanche
flowing several hundred feet below in a deep narrow ravine, by the
side of La Combe de Malaval. 8 m. from Le Bourg and 37¼ from Grenoble
is +Le Freney+, 3085 ft., pop. 900; _Inn:_ H. Europe, with mines up in
the mountains but of difficult access. It is in these mines that the
crystals and the species of quartz containing gold are found, for
which the Dauphiné is so celebrated among mineralogists.
2 m. farther, among masses of rocks, is the hamlet of Le Dauphin, with
a small inn. From this place, until the summit of the Col de Lautaret
is passed, every gap in the mountains shows a glittering glacier or a
soaring peak. About 3½ m. farther up, near the hamlet of Les Freaux,
a tributary of the Romanche pours its torrent over a precipice of
granite, forming a beautiful cascade. 45 m. from Grenoble and 24 m.
from Briançon is
[Headnote: LA GRAVE. COL DE LAUTARET.]
+La Grave+, 5000 ft.; _Inn:_ H. Juge; pop. 1500. Built on a slope
rising from the road, with, behind, almost inaccessible cliffs
containing copper mines, and opposite, on the other side of the river,
the great glacier which streams from the summit of the Meije, 13,080
ft. To the E. of the Meije is the Bec de l’Homme, 11,372 ft., with a
smaller glacier. The ridge called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W.,
and is crowned by numerous aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The
two highest are towards the eastern and western ends of the ridge, and
are rather more than a mile apart. Any attempts to ascend the highest
or western aiguille must be made from the northern side. The view of
this mountain from the village of La Grave can hardly be praised too
highly; it is one of the very finest road views in the Alps, and one
cannot speak in exaggerated terms of its jagged ridges, torrential
glaciers, and tremendous precipices. The perpendicular cliff,
extending from the Glacier des Etançons to the summit of the Meije, is
about 3200 ft. From La Grave the road leads through a bleak region and
several tunnels to Villard d’Arene, 4½ m. from La Grave and 32 from
Briançon, a miserable hamlet, considerably under the high road, at the
foot of the Bec de l’Homme.
[Headnote: LE CASSET.]
51¾ m. E. from Grenoble and 17¼ m. W. from Briançon is the +Hospice of
the Col de Lautaret+, a very fair inn on the summit of Pass, 6791 ft.,
where refreshments are taken and the horses changed. The two
diligences pass it daily. An iron plate on the house indicates that it
is 11 kilomètres (6⅘ m.) from La Grave and 13 kilomètres (8 m.)
from Le Monètier. The pass commands a grand view down the gorge of
Malaval and towards the lofty towering Meije or Aiguille du Midi,
13,081 ft. above the sea. From one side of the pass the Romanche
descends to Grenoble, and from the other the Guisanne to Briançon.
From the Hospice the road traverses several galleries, and passes by a
mine of anthracite coal not far from the village of Lauzet. The
discovery of this mine has been a great boon to the inhabitants of
this region, where wood is so scarce and where the winter is so long
and inclement. 2½ m. from Lauzet and considerably below the road is
the hamlet of Le Casset, at the foot of Mt. Vallon, 10,136 ft., at the
entrance to the ravine of the Torrent Tabue, descending from the great
glaciers which spread themselves over the eastern slopes of Mont
Pelvoux. When the snow is melted the effect of the sun upon them is
splendid. 60 m. from Grenoble and 9 from Briançon is
[Headnote: LE MONÈTIER. BRIANÇON.]
+Le Monètier de Briançon+, 4898 ft. above the sea, surrounded with
barley-fields, pop. 2600, on the Guisanne, near the foot of St.
Marguerite, 8328 ft., which, like Mont Vallon, belongs to the Pelvoux
group. Horses changed here. _Inn:_ Alliey; mineral bath establishment,
with hot sulphurous springs. Mines of anthracite. The road then passes
the villages of Les Guibertes, 4689 ft.; La Salle, with cloth and
night-cap manufactories; and St. Chaffrey, 3¼ m. from Briançon and
4299 ft. above the sea. 69 m. E. from Grenoble is
+Briançon+, 4335 ft., pop. 6000. _Inn:_ H. de la Paix. Temple
Protestant. The Brigantium of the Romans, and now a fortified town of
the first class, with eight strong fortresses, which guard this
important entrance into France from Italy. The town stands on the
steep sides of an eminence rising vertically from the Durance, here a
roaring mountain torrent hemmed in between the cliffs of the Mont
Infernet, with strong forts on all the salient points up to the very
summit, 7810 ft. above the sea. At this part the Durance is spanned by
a bridge of one arch, 120 ft. wide and 108 ft. above the river,
erected in 1734, in the reign of Louis XV. On the right side of the
river, above the town, is the Fort du Château, and opposite, on the
left side of the river, are the Trois Têtes, the largest of the forts.
The views from them are very extensive, especially from the fort
Pointe du Jour. Carriage up to it, 30 frs. Permission to visit the
forts must be procured from the commandant. The large building down
the Durance seen from the bridge, in the suburb called St. Catherine,
is a manufactory where the waste of silk on cocoons is carded and
prepared for spinning. About 800 people are employed. The women earn
14d. per day, working from 5 in the morning to 6 P.M., 1½ hr. allowed
for meals. The longitudinal streets of Briançon are narrow and steep,
little better than staircases, down the centre of each of which runs a
stream of water in a marble gutter, with such an impulse that all
manner of garbage thrown into it quickly disappears. At the foot of
Briançon is the fertile valley formed by the union of the Guisanne
with the Durance, surrounded by carefully-cultivated mountains studded
with villages. All the Briançon coaches start from the Place du
Temple, in front of the church. “The neighbourhood of Briançon abounds
in rare plants. Amongst them may be mentioned Astragalus austriacus
and A. vesicarius, Oxytropus Halleri, Prunus brigantiaca, Telephium
Imperati, Brassica repanda, Berardia subacaulis, Rhaponticum
heleniifolium, Crepis pygmæa, Androsace septentrionalis, and
Bulbocodium vernum.” --Ball’s _Western Alps_.
[Headnote: VAL LOUISE. GRAND PELVOUX.]
The great excursion from Briançon is the ascent of the Pelvoux group,
whose highest peak is 12,975 ft. It can only be effected, however, in
favourable weather and with experienced guides. A wheel-road extends
by the village of La Bessée to Val Louise, 3780 ft., whence a path
ascends by the hamlets of Claux and Aléfroide. The +Ville de Val
Louise+ lies near the union of the Valley des Entraigues with the
principal branch of the Val Louise, called the Aléfroide, stretching
up to the foot of the monarch of the group, the +Grand Pelvoux+
itself, which, although at no great distance, cannot be seen from the
village on account of the hill which rises immediately behind. (See
p. 345, and map p. 304.)
[Headnote: CESANNE.]
+Briançon to Oulx+, 17 m. N.E. by diligence, 4 hrs., 7 frs., by a
beautiful road winding up fir-clad mountains disclosing charming views
of the valley of the Durance and of the Mont Pelvoux group. On the
summit of the Pass or of Mont Genèvre, the Mons Jovis of the Romans,
is the village of Genèvre (pop. 400), with the French custom-house,
6476 ft. above the sea or 2141 ft. above Briançon, and 7 m. from it
and 10 m. from Oulx. An iron plate indicates that it is 11 kilomètres
from Briançon, 61 from Embrun, 10 from Cesanne, and 40 or almost 25 m.
from Susa (p. 291). A few yards beyond is an obelisk which marks the
boundary between France and Italy, and which commemorates in French,
Latin, and Italian the opening of this road in 1807 under Napoleon I.,
and its restoration or rather repair in 1835. 5 m. farther is
+Cesanne+, at the confluence of the Dora with the Ripa, 4420 ft., or
nearly at the same height as Briançon. Italian custom-house. _Inn:_
Croix Blanche, where the horses are changed. A post-road leads from
Cesanne to Perosa, 28 m. E. (p. 307). 5 m. from Cesanne is Oulx, 3514
ft., with a good inn, the Dell’ Alpi Cozzié, close to the station. The
diligence halts at and starts from the station. (See also p. 291. From
Oulx rail to Turin, p. 291.) The road between Briançon and Oulx forms
a pleasant and easy walking excursion, which can be considerably
shortened on the French side by following the footpath.
Grenoble to Gap by diligence, 62 m. S. The Grenoble diligence goes
only the length of Corps, where the Gap passengers enter the diligence
for Gap.
+Grenoble to Corps.+
By diligence, 39½ m. S., 9 hrs., 9 frs., by a very beautiful road.
From Grenoble the road extends nearly in a straight line between the
railway and the Drac to Claix, 5 m. S. (pp. 328 and 345), and thence
in another straight line between poplars to Vizille, 5½ m. farther.
Coach from Vizille to La Motte les Bains. From Vizille the diligence
takes nine horses, and having crossed the Romanche, ascends by the
flanks of Mont Conex in 2 hrs. to the village of La Frey or Laffrey,
2000 ft. above, and 4½ m. from Vizille, and 15 from Grenoble, in a
cold situation on the top of this pass, about 3000 ft. above the sea;
the horses are changed, and time given to take a cup of coffee. On
this plateau, immediately beyond the village, is Lake Laffrey, 3050
ft. above the sea, 2 m. long and 875 yards wide. At its S. end is the
village of the Petit-Chat, whence commences the Lake Pierre-Châtel. To
the right or west of the road is Mt. Peychagnard, with rich anthracite
coalmines, some of the beds being from 10 to 15 yards thick. The
diligence next passes through Pierre-Châtel, 20 m. from Grenoble,
a considerable village, with to the E. Mont Tabor, 7829 ft.
[Headnote: LA MURE. CORPS.]
23¾ m. S. from Grenoble and 38¼ m. N. from Gap is +La Mure+, 2860 ft.,
pop. 3800, the largest town on the road, with the ancient castle of
Beaumont, nail manufactories, and the anthracite mines of Availlans,
3½ m. distant. Horses changed. Between La Mure and La Salle, the next
village, is perhaps the grandest scenery, the road running along the
edges of high cliffs or in the profound depths of the ravine of the
Bonne, which it crosses by the Pont-Haut. The hamlet of La Salle is
exactly half-way between Grenoble and Gap, 31 m. from each, and 8½ m.
from Corps. The road, after passing the village of Quet and the gorge
of La Salette, arrives at
+Corps+, 39½ m. from Grenoble, on a plateau 814 ft. above the
confluence of the Drac with the Souloise, or 3156 ft. above the sea.
Pop. 1500. _Inns:_ *Poste; Palais; next each other. Mules for La
Salette with man, 4½ frs. Vehicles, 5 frs. the seat, or 15 frs. the
whole. La Salette is 5½ m. from Corps, and 2750 ft. above it, by a
wheel-road. The ascent by mule takes 2½ hrs. It is better to descend
on foot. The excursion to La Salette is very picturesque, and, like
all the journeys among the mountains of the department of Isère, of
great interest to the botanist and geologist. The inhabitants of these
mountains wander in winter to distant parts selling their plants,
bulbs, and seeds. From the aromatic varieties most justly famous
liqueurs are distilled at the Chartreuse, La Salette, Grenoble, and
elsewhere. The rocks produce nearly every kind of metal, one of the
best cements, and many beautiful crystals and marbles, of which the
black variety of Beaumont is the most celebrated.
[Headnote: CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME DE LA SALETTE.]
LA SALETTE.
This place, formerly a dreary and desolate mountain plateau, is now
visited by thousands of pilgrims, especially on the great feast-day of
Notre Dame de la Salette, sanctioned by Pio IX. himself. The church,
a handsome and substantial edifice, built in 1860, of unpolished
marble, is 146 ft. long and 49 ft. wide, and 60 ft. high, inside
measure. Eighteen columns surround the nave and choir, while attached
pillars support the walls, all covered with votive offerings. The
pulpit was a gift from Belgian votaries. The façade, with three
doorways, has on each corner a handsome square tower. The expenses,
which were very great in a region of such difficult access, and where
winter lasts six months, were defrayed by spontaneous contributions.
Opposite the façade are well-executed colossal figures in bronze, the
gift of a Spaniard, representing the events of the story. On the south
side of the choir a door opens into the large and spacious building
occupied by the nuns, and on the north side another door opens into a
similar building occupied by the monks. The hotel accommodation in
each is exactly the same. The pension price, including wine and
everything else, is 5½ frs. per day. Visitors can have a good meat
breakfast for 1½ fr., dinner 2½ frs., supper 2 frs., a bowl of café au
lait ½ fr., a cup of café noir 25 c. Both the monks and the nuns are
very obliging. Books approved of by the bishop of Grenoble are sold in
the “magasin” of the establishment, giving the history of the
apparition, from which the following is extracted:-- “On the 19th of
September 1846, at 2.30 P.M., was seen by a girl and a boy in the
place where the statue now is, a figure seated on a stone shedding
tears so copiously that they caused a dried-up spring, about 2 ft. in
diameter and 2½ ft. deep, a little to her left, to flow forth freely.
Since then it has been fed by a pipe, and has been called the
miraculous fountain. The girl’s name was Fraçoise-Melanie Calvat
Mathieu, 15 years old, and the boy’s Pierre-Maximin Giraud, 11 years
old, both employed as cowherds, and both so ignorant that they could
neither read nor write. They understood only the patois, and had such
frail memories that the girl had as yet been hardly able to remember a
few lines of the catechism, while it had taken the boy three years to
learn the Pater Noster and the Avé Maria. The statues of the children
in the path between the railings indicate the place where they were
standing when they first saw the figure. When the apparition became
aware of their presence it arose, and calling them to her, said in
French, shedding tears abundantly all the time, ‘If my people will not
submit, I shall be obliged to let loose the arm of my son; it is so
heavy and weighty that I cannot retain it any longer. You may pray and
do what you like, you will never be able to recompense the labour I
have taken for you. I have given you six days for work, and have
reserved for myself the seventh, but they will not grant me it; it is
that that makes the arm of my son so heavy. Those who drive carts
cannot swear without using (inserting) the name of my son. These are
the two things which make the arm of my son so burdensome.’ She
continued a little longer in French till, observing the children did
not understand her, she added in patois a long harangue in the same
strain, a diatribe on the blasphemy of the age and the desecration of
the Sabbath-- ‘only some old women go to mass.’ After her speech, and
having twice charged the children to make known her discourse, ‘a tout
mon peuple,’ she glided up the path between the railings, followed by
the children, to the eminence where the colossal statue stands with
the statues of the children before it, and, having ascended 5 ft., she
disappeared, looking to the S.E.” That this being was really Mary was
acknowledged by Pio IX., who sanctioned the institution of a feast-day
in her honour, and several plenary indulgences for pilgrimages and
other acts of devotion, to Notre Dame de la Salette. On the 6th August
1867 the worship (culte) of her was publicly established in Rome. The
first stone of the church, up on the mountain near the site where Mary
appeared to the children, was laid by Bruillard, bishop of Grenoble,
on 25th May 1852, assisted by Chatrousse, bishop of Valence, in the
presence of 15,000 pilgrims. In the churches all over France and in
many of those in Belgium are pictures representing N. D. de la Salette
addressing the children. In the litany addressed to Mary of Salette
she is appealed to as “the tower of David,” “the gate of heaven,” “the
morning star,” “the refuge of sinners,” “the queen conceived without
sin,” “the healer of diseases,” “thou by whose supplications the arm
of the irritated Lord against us is held back,” “thou who hast said,
If my people will not submit I shall be forced to let go the arm of
my son,” “thou who continually beseechest thy divine son to have mercy
upon us, pray for us.”
The lad, Pierre Maximin, after serving his time in the army, kept a
shop at Corps, upon which was written, “Objets de Piété vendus par
Maximin Giraud.” He died about the year 1880. Melanie, the girl, was
sent to a nunnery at Naples. A priest is said to have affirmed that
the pretended Mary was an eccentric lady called Mlle. Lamerlière, born
near Saint-Marcellin, Isère.
From Corps either return to Grenoble or take the diligence to Gap,
22½ m. S. (See p. 333, and map p. 304.)
[Headnote: GIÈRES.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MODANE
{398}{78}
+GIÈRES.+ At this station omnibuses await passengers for the baths of
Uriage, 4 m. N., and 1358 ft. _Hotels:_ Grand Hôtel; Cercle; Ancien
Hôtel; Des Bains; Du Rocher. The bathing establishment is comfortable
and commodious, and is pleasantly situated in a narrow wooded valley,
about 400 ft. higher than Grenoble. The water contains common salt,
sulphates of magnesia and soda, and carbonate of lime, and rises in a
deep valley at the junction of granite and lias, which is, however,
concealed for some way by an immense mass of detritus, through which the
spring forces itself. It is conveyed 700 yards in a subterraneous
conduit to the establishment, whence it issues with a temp. of 71° Fahr.
[Headnote: DOMENE.]
{401}{75}
+DOMENE+, pop. 2000. _Inn:_ Hôtel du Commerce. From this village is
generally made the laborious ascent of the Pic de Belledonne, 9780 ft.
above the sea-level. Guides necessary. The first night is generally
spent at the village of Revel. Two days required.
[Headnote: GONCELIN.]
{412}{64}
+GONCELIN+, pop. 1600. Station for Allevard-les Bains, 6¼ m. distant by
an excellent road through a beautiful country, in comfortable omnibuses
awaiting passengers at the station, fare 2 frs. Here also a coach awaits
passengers for Tourettes, pop. 400, in the opposite direction, upon the
right bank of the Isére.
Allevard on the Breda, 1837 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. The three
principal hotels are within the park, and the prices are from 8½ frs.
to 12½ frs. per day, including everything. The Hôtel des Bains, with
the casino, theatre, and mineral water establishment. At the other end
of the park are the Louvre and the H. Parc. In the Place contiguous to
the Temple Protestant is the H. du Rhône, 8½ to 10½ frs. In a garden
of its own, Le Châlet. Near the diligence office, the France. The H.
Very. Nearly a mile from Allevard at the junction of the lias with the
primitive talc-slate rise the springs, temp. 61° Fahr., with a great
deal of free sulphuric acid gas, especially efficacious in diseases of
the throat and the respiratory organs, for the cure of which the
establishment is especially adapted, the apparatus for inhalation and
gargling being both complete and varied.
Allevard possesses also important ironworks, where the rich carbonate
of iron ores from the neighbouring mountains are smelted.
Among the easiest of the many delightful walks around Allevard is the
road that leads up the gorge of the Breda to what is called the “Fin
du Monde,” 1 m. distant, where masses of rock render it impracticable
to proceed farther. To reach it, walk up the left bank to a bridge at
the upper ironworks. Do not cross it, but continue on the left bank
and ascend the road to the right. Finger-posts indicate the rest of
the way. At one part of the road travellers are requested to pay a
toll of 10 sous.
The ascent of the Brame Farine, 3983 ft., takes 1¾ hr. It is an
elevated point on the ridge between the valleys of the Breda and the
Isère. 25 min. from Allevard is the Tour de Treuil, 10th cent., the
remains of a castle belonging to the family of Crouy Chanel. From this
a path ascends through a ravine planted with walnut trees to the
hamlet of Crozet. Descend by sledge, 2 frs.
There are a great many other excursions into the valleys and up the
mountains, either by carriage or on horseback, for which there is a
tariff by the authorities of the place.
[Headnote: SEPT LAUX.]
The most remarkable of these excursions, and at the same time the most
difficult, is 9 m. up the valley of the Breda by the hamlet of +La
Ferrière+, to the Sept Laux or Lakes, 7144 ft. above the sea-level,
and the Glacier of Gleyzin, 9480 ft. above the sea-level. Time
required to go, 14 hrs. constant walking, but to the lakes only, about
half that time. This series of lakes, above 30 in all, lies in a wild
gloomy ravine, shut in on all sides by low bare peaks. They are fed by
springs, and are not accumulations of stagnant water derived from the
melting snow. The banks are surrounded with fragments of rock, covered
with snow nearly the whole year, while the highest of the lakes, Lake
Blanc, is almost always frozen over. Some of them contain trout, and a
sluggish frog inhabits the marshy margins.
[Headnote: PONTCHARRÁ.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MODANE
{418}{58}
+PONTCHARRÁ+ station. An omnibus awaits passengers for the village of
Pontcharrá, pop. 2800, _Inn:_ Domenjon, 1¼ m. distant.
From Pontcharrá the coach proceeds 5 m. E. to the village of La
Rochette, in a beautiful valley. Near Pontcharrá, and seen distinctly
from the station, is the castle in which Bayard was born.
{426}{50}
+LES MARCHES+, a straggling village overlooked by a hill, on which
stands the church of Notre Dame de Myans, with a colossal statue of
the Virgin. Beyond are some small lakes and mounds formed by landslips
from Mt. Granier, 6520 ft. 2½ m. from Les Marches is Montmélian, where
passengers by this route for Modane and Turin _change carriages_ and
join the direct line. For the rest of the journey to Modane (53
miles), see from Montmélian, p. 289.
+Marseilles to Grenoble+,
190 m. N., by GARDANNE, AIX, PERTUIS, ST. AUBAN, VEYNES, and CLELLES.
Fare--first class, 36 frs. 70 c.; second, 27 frs. 55 c. Grenoble is
394 m. S.E. from Paris by Lyons (see p. 324).
miles from MARSEILLES
miles to GRENOBLE
{ }{190}
+MARSEILLES.+ There are two ways from Marseilles to Aix, either by
Rognac 33 m., or by Gardanne 16¾ m. The Rognac route must be chosen by
those who desire to visit the aqueduct of Roquefavour (see p. 77).
[Headnote: GARDANNE.]
{11}{179}
+GARDANNE+, pop. 3500, on the stream Jaret. Both here and at Septêmes
are important coal-fields.
Southwards, towards the Bouches du Rhône, are seen the chimneys of
numerous tile, brick, and pottery works. From Gardanne a branch line
extends to Carnoules, 52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and
Cannes (p. 142), on which the only towns of interest are Brignoles and
St. Maximin.
{18½}{171½}
+AIX-EN-PROVENCE+ (see p. 78). At Aix change carriages for Rognac. 5 m.
N. from Aix is La Calade station, where a coach awaits passengers for
St. Cannat, 5 m. N.W. (p. 80); and Lambesc, 3½ m. farther (p. 80). 5 m.
S.W. from Lambesc is Pelissanne. 16 m. N. from Aix, or 34½ m. N. from
Marseilles, is Meyrargues (see p. 79).
[Headnote: PERTUIS.]
{38}{152}
+PERTUIS+, pop. 5800. _Hotels:_ Reynaud; Thomas; both near each other.
Their omnibuses await passengers at the station. Situated 2 m. from
the Durance, at the junction of the branch line from Avignon, 48 m.
W., passing Cavaillon, the station for Apt, and L’Isle, the station
for Vaucluse (see pp. 64 and 66). The Marseilles canal from the
Durance commences near Pertuis (p. 77). In the centre of Pertuis is
the Tour d’Aigues, which was part of the old fortifications. From
Pertuis the country becomes picturesque. 10 m. N. is the station of
Mirabeau, pop. 800, with the castle in which Mirabeau spent his
boyhood, and in which his father was born.
60 m. N. from Marseilles, and 130 m. S. from Grenoble, is Manosque,
pop. 6200 (see pp. 166 and 168). 4½ m. N. from Manosque is Volx
village and station, with beds of lignite. 69½ m. N. from Marseilles
is La Brillanne, pop. 400, on the Oraison. 3½ m. N. from Brillanne is
the station and village of Lurs, pop. 1000, on a hill overlooking the
Durance. It contains the convent of Alaun, visited by pilgrims, and a
Roman road called the Chemin-Seinet.
[Headnote: PEYRUIS.]
{77½}{112½}
+PEYRUIS+, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Latil; curiously situated on the Durance,
at the base of cliffs of conglomerate more than 1000 ft. high, which by
the action of water have been cut up into tall pinnacles.
{80½}{109½}
+ST. AUBAN+, pop. 250, junction with line to Digne. (For Digne, see
p. 166, and maps pp. 162 and 304.)
+Digne to Barcelonnette by La Javie, Seyne, Le Lauzet, and Thuiles+,
53 m. E., by coach; time, 11 hrs.; fare, 10 frs. 9 m. from Digne is La
Javie, famous for plums; pop. 500; H. de France, at the junction of
the Bléonne with the Arigeol. 2 m. beyond is Beaujeu, pop. 400, on the
Combefère, whence a narrow valley leads to the Col de Labouret, 3990
ft. Thence descend to Le Vernet, pop. 300, on the Besse, with beds of
gypsum, 19 m. from Digne and 33 from Barcelonnette. Near Le Vernet is
commenced the ascent of the Col de Maure, 4708 ft.; from which descend
to Seyne-les-Alpes, pop. 2800, on the flanks of a mountain, and
half-way between Digne and Barcelonnette. It contains a church of the
11th and 12th cents. 18 m. from Barcelonnette, and 5 from Le Lauzet,
is St. Vincent, pop. 600, situated on a grassy eminence overlooking
the Ubaye. From Le Lauzet to Barcelonnette, see Gap to Barcelonnette,
p. 341.
[Headnote: COLMARS.]
+Digne to Barcelonnette by Draix, St. Thomas, Colmars, and Allos+,
55 m. N.E. 10½ m. from Digne and 4 from La Javie is Draix, pop. 200,
on a confluent of the Bléonne. 21¼ m. beyond is Colmars, pop. 1100, at
the foot of Mts. Meunier and Draye, on the Sence at its junction with
the Verdon. Excellent cheese, called Thorame. Cloth and saw mills.
5 m. beyond is Allos, pop. 1400, with a small inn, 18 m. from
Barcelonnette. A short way from Allos by the hamlet Champ Richard, in
one of the wildest and most sequestered valleys of the Alps, is Lake
Allos, 7346 ft. above the sea, 4 m. in circumference, 140 ft. deep,
containing capital trout, and surrounded by cliffs in some places 590
ft. high, over which tower bleak mountains, of which the most lofty is
Mt. Pela, 8600 ft. The lake discharges its surplus water through a
subterranean canal 1640 ft. long, whence it issues under the name of
the torrent Chadoulin. From the village of Allos proceed to
Barcelonnette by La Foux, pop. 150, with an interesting church, and
Mourjouan, both on the Verdon, a tributary of the Ubaye. (For
Barcelonnette, see p. 341. For Cannes and Grasse to Digne, see
p. 165.)
[Headnote: SISTERON.]
miles from MARSEILLES
miles to GRENOBLE
{91}{99}
+SISTERON+, pop. 5000. Good resting-place. _Hotels:_ Vassail; Negre;
their omnibuses await passengers at station.
Picturesquely situated, 1575 ft. above the sea, on both sides of the
Durance at its confluence with the Buech. At the railway end of the
town are the church of Notre Dame, 11th cent., and three towers, part
of the fortifications built by the Counts of Provence. Notre Dame has
been very much altered externally by restoration and repairs. The
effect of the graceful octagonal tower has been destroyed by the
square tower adjoining. In the interior the arches are early pointed,
inclining to the stilted form. The three apsidal terminations are
semicircular. The small window at the end of each is closed. The end
of the town farthest from the railway is picturesque. From the gateway
rise perpendicular cliffs of blue limestone, on the top of which is a
fortress of the third class. Immediately opposite, on the other side
of the Durance, are similar strata heaved up and twisted into an
enormous pyramid. A little beyond the gateway, a good road leads up by
the cemetery to a place where there is a good view of the valleys of
the Durance and the Buech. 7 m. N. from Sisteron is +Mison+ station,
2002 ft. above the sea, on the border of the Hautes-Alpes. 5 m.
farther, Laragne station, 1883 ft. 34 m. N. from Laragne is
Eyguians-Orpier station, 1979 ft.
[Headnote: SERRES.]
{112½}{77½}
+SERRES+, pop. 1200; _Inns:_ *Alpes; Voyageurs; Commerce; consisting of
dirty, steep, narrow streets, on the sloping side of a calcareous cliff
rising from between the Buech and the Blême. Diligence to Nyons, 41 m.
E., p. 51. 8 m. N. from Serres is Chabestan, 2411 ft.
[Headnote: VEYNES.]
{121½}{68½}
+VEYNES+, 2614 ft. above the sea, pop. 1800. _Inns:_ At station, H. and
Rest, de la Gare; in town, H. Dousselin.
Junction with rail to +Mont Dauphin-Guillestre+, 51 m. N.E. This
branch line extends to the passes leading to the roads which traverse
the valleys of the Waldenses.
[Headnote: GAP.]
On this branch line, 16¾ m. E. from Veynes and 34¼ m. S.W. from Mont
Dauphin, is Gap, on the Luye, 2895 ft. above the sea, pop. 9300.
_Inns:_ Poste; Nord; Provence; France. This, the ancient Civitas
Vappium, has a large Champ de Mars, extensive barracks, long avenues
of walnut trees, and a handsome modern cathedral, built on the site of
one of the 11th cent. In the Préfecture is the mausoleum of the
Connetable Lesdiguières, originally one of the leaders of the
Protestants. In the hamlet of Tareau, close to Gap, Guillaume Farel,
a celebrated French reformer, was born in 1489. He died on the 13th
Sept. 1565. The most remarkable features of his character were
dauntlessness and untiring energy and zeal. He possessed a sonorous
and tuneful voice, fluency of language, and passionate earnestness;
yet, although seldom failing to arrest the attention of large
audiences, he often, by imprudent torrents of denunciation, aroused
against his doctrines unnecessary opposition.
[Headnote: LE LAUZET.]
+Gap to Barcelonnette+, coach daily; distance, 42 m.; fare, 8 frs.;
time, 8 to 9 hrs. The road follows the Luye to its confluence with the
Durance, 5 m. S. from Gap. From this point it ascends by the N. side
of the Durance, passing the pretty village of Remollons, 10 m. from
Gap. 3½ m. farther is the roadside station of Espinasse, where the
horses are changed. 300 yds. above the confluence of the Ubaye with
the Durance the road crosses the Durance by the bridge of Saulze, and
ascends by the right side of the Ubaye to the village of Ubaye, 23 m.
from Gap, producing large quantities of walnuts, of which oil is made.
The apples of this neighbourhood were once famous. From almost every
part of the road between Espinasse and Ubaye are seen the picturesque
fort and extensive forest of St. Vincent. 28½ m. from Gap is Le
Lauzet, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ France, surrounded by great mountains, with
narrow gorges and lofty waterfalls. In the neighbourhood is a lake
abounding with trout. 3 m. higher up is the hamlet of Martinet, at the
entrance to the beautiful valley of the Laverq, extending to the S.
side of Mt. Siolane, on whose slopes the spire of the church of
Meolans occupies a prominent position. From Martinet the road crosses
to the right side of the Ubaye, whence, passing by Les Thuiles. 4½ m.
from Barcelonnette, and St. Pons, 1½ m., arrives at Barcelonnette. St.
Pons contains the ruins of a castle, a church said to be of the 7th
cent., and a Via Crucis up a steep hill. The most curious part of the
church is the S. portal, under a soffit, having pillars on each side.
Above the pillars are small quaint figures of the apostles, and over
the door one of J. C. On the tympanum is a fresco representing the
presentation of the kings to the child Jesus. On N. side of chancel is
a square tower with short spire, which seems to have served as a
pattern to all the church towers in, the department of the Alps, the
characteristics being that the height of the tower is proportionally
great to the height of the spire.
[Headnote: BARCELONNETTE. ST. PAUL.]
+Barcelonnette+, 3718 ft. above the sea, pop. 2100, _Hotels:_ Nord;
France; on the Ubaye, in the midst of meadows, surrounded by
mountains clothed with walnut, larch, and fir trees. The present
village was built in 1230 on ground given by Reymond Beranger, in
honour of whose ancestors, the Counts of Barcelona in Spain, the
newly-erected town received its name. The parish church, begun in
1230, was, on account of a conflagration, nearly rebuilt in the 16th
and 17th cents. The tour de l’horloge at the corner of the “Place” is
all that remains of the church of N. D. de Confort, built in 1290 and
destroyed in 1789.
From Barcelonnette, besides the coaches daily to Gap and Digne, there
is also one to the village of St. Paul, 4730 ft. above the sea, and
13½ m. N.E. from Barcelonnette, fare, 2½ frs.; time, 3 hrs., by the
Maddalena road, the length of 2 m. above La Condamine, where it
diverges 6½ m. N. up the narrow and picturesque gorge of the Ubaye.
The wheel-road continues 10 m. beyond St. Paul to Maurin, 6565 ft.
above the sea. From this a bridle-road enters Italy by the Col Longet,
8767 ft., and the hamlets of Chenal (Italian custom-house with a fair
inn) and Château Dauphin and the river Vraita.
[Headnote: JAUSIERS. BERSEZIO.]
+Barcelonnette to Cuneo+ by the Col della Maddalena, Vinadio, Demonte,
and Dalmazzo, 62 m. E., 12 hours’ walk to Vinadio; whence there is a
diligence to Cuneo. Wheel-road all the way (see map, p. 304). Guide
not necessary. 3¼ m. from Barcelonnette is the hamlet of Faucon. 3¾ m.
more, Jausiers, pop. 1000, on the confluence of the Ubaye with the
Sanières and the Verdon. Church of the 14th cent. The road, to avoid
the narrow passage called the Pas de Grégoire, ascends to a
considerable elevation, and then descends to the village of
Condamine-Châtelard, 7 m. from Barcelonnette, under the fortress of
Tournoux, with remarkable excavations and stairs. 2 m. beyond La
Condamine the road divides into two. One goes northward up the valley
of the Ubaye to St. Paul (see p. 341), the other goes to the Pass of
+La Maddalena+. 7 m. beyond Chatelard, or 14¼ m. from Barcelonnette,
is Larche, pop. 800, _Inns:_ Alpes; Italie; 5570 ft., the last French
village. 5 m. beyond, or 19 m. from Barcelonnette, is the culminating
point of the Pass of the Maddalena or Argentière, 6548 ft. above the
sea, between Mt. Mourre and the Punta della Signora, 7190 ft. The
mule-path on the S.E. side now descends 850 ft. by the Lago della
Maddalena, the source of the Stura, to the hamlets of Maddalena and
Argentiera, 5596 ft., with an inn and Italian custom-house. A little
distance farther, or about 7 m. from the Col and 24 from
Barcelonnette, is Bersezio, with an inn situated amidst much fine wild
scenery. 14 m. from Bersezio is Vinadio, with an inn. The Baths are up
a steep glen, which ramifies southward from the Stura at the hamlet of
Plancies, about 4 m. beyond the village of Vinadio. 8 m. from Vinadio
is Demonte, near the junction of the Staura with the stream di
Valcorera, descending from the pass of the Colle del Mulo, 8422 ft.,
leading over to the picturesque valley of the Grana, about 25 m. W.
from Cuneo. 12 m. from Demonte, 5 from Cuneo, and 57 from
Barcelonnette is S. Dalmazzo, whence steam tram to Cuneo. (For Cuneo,
see pp. 182 and 279.)
+Gap to Grenoble by Laye, Corps, and La Mure+, 62 m. Diligence to
Vizille, the remaining 8 m. by rail.
From Gap the diligence road extends 62 m. northwards to Grenoble, by
+Laye+, 6½ m. N., where the Col de Bavard, 4088 ft., is traversed. On
the summit is a house of refuge. 4½ m. beyond Laye is Les Barraques,
_Inn:_ H. Gentillon, near which is, at the mouth of the valley of the
Drac, St. Bonnet, 3350 ft., pop. 2200, the birthplace of Lesdiguières,
in a most fertile district. 23 m. from Gap is Corps (see p. 333).
[Headnote: LA MURE. CHORGES.]
23¾ m. from Grenoble and 38¼ from Gap is +La Mure+, pop. 3800, and
2860 ft. above the sea-level. _Inns:_ Pelloux; Commerce. A coach runs
between La Mure and Grenoble by La Motte. Situated on the Jonche.
There is a large trade carried on here in cattle and grain. 3½ m.
distant are the anthracite mines of Availlans. 20½ m. from Grenoble is
Pierre-Châtel, pop. 1200, to the E. of Mont Tabor, 7829 ft. 10 m. W.
by a branch road is Motte-les-Bains. 16 m. from Grenoble is Laffrey
(see p. 333).
26¾ m. from Veynes junction is +Chorges+, pop. 1900. _Inn:_ H. de la
Poste. This, the ancient capital of the Caturiges, occupies a marshy
unhealthy situation. The parish church was originally a temple to
Diana. In the “Place” is a marble pedestal with the name of Nero. In
and around the town are fragments of Roman buildings. The chapel of
Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Rencontre, in the valley of Chorges, is visited by
pilgrims.
[Headnote: SAVINES. EMBRUN.]
34¼ m. from Veynes is +Savines+, pop. 1300. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste, on
the Réallon. This is the place to alight to visit the forest and
valley of the Boscodon, with splendid gorges. The road extends all the
way to the valley of the Ubaye, which it enters near Martinet and
Meolan. 6¼ m. beyond Savines is
+Embrun+, 3014 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Thouard; Poste;
8¾ m. S.E. from Réallon and 12½ from Pruntères. This, the Ebrodunum of
the Romans and one of their important military stations, is situated
on an eminence in the midst of mountains on the Durance, and the S.
side of Mont St. Guillaume, 5550 ft. above the town. In a conspicuous
situation stands the church of Notre Dame, said to have been founded
in the time of Charlemagne. The walls, pierced with small round-headed
deep-set windows with sculptured arches resting on colonnettes, are
supported by flat buttresses rising to the eaves. The façade or west
end consists of a flat gable with a 4-storied spired tower rising from
the N. side. Above the portal is a rose window with valuable old
painted glass. The N. portal is within a portico on four columns. The
two outer rest on lions; the two inner, each a cluster of four slender
columns, rest on the shoulders of men in a sitting posture. The apse
with its two apsidal chapels and part of the adjoining wall are
probably the only parts of the church which date from the time of
Charlemagne. The interior is about 60 yds. long and 25 wide. On each
side of the nave are four wide spanned early pointed arches resting on
massive rectangular piers. Above each arch is a small roundheaded
deeply-recessed window within a corniced arch resting on colonnettes.
Below in the aisles are their exact counterparts, only about double
the size. The roof of the nave is quadripartite, and that of the aisle
semicircular. The high altar and angels are of white marble. The organ
and most of the ornaments date from the time of Louis XI., who
frequently visited this church to pray to Notre Dame d’Embrun, that
white marble image of the Virgin and Child over the altar fronting the
northern entrance. On the inside of the northern doorway (left hand)
are two horseshoes, not exactly of the same size. It is said that
Lesdiguières, the Protestant leader, attempting to ride into the
church to the altar of the image of Notre Dame, the horse reared, and
the shoes of its hind hoofs sticking to the pavement, the animal could
proceed no farther.
Behind the cathedral is the archbishop’s palace, now a barrack. In the
centre rises a lofty square machicolated tower called the Tour Brune.
3 m. S. the road passes the village of Les Crottes.
After Embrun the rail passes Châteauroux, 3¾ m. N.E. from Embrun, with
a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement, 3¾ m.
farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a bathing
establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs.
[Headnote: MONT DAUPHIN.]
51 m. N.E. from Veynes is +Mont Dauphin+, an isolated rock of coarse
reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with the
Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above the
road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to the
summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on the
top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of
stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the
village, which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy
appearance. From the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and
mountains, including Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers,
and down at the foot of the rock is the inn St. Guillaume.
[Headnote: GUILLESTRE. QUEYRAS. AIGUILLES. ABRIÉS.]
2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is
the village of Guillestre, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and church
of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil, passing
through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to 800
ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. from Mont Dauphin, is a cascade.
3 m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile, are the fort
and village of +Queyras+, 17 m. S. from Briançon and 14 m. N.E. from
Mont Dauphin, with an inn. “In the valleys around Queyras Protestants
are numerous, especially in the Val +d’Arvieux+, reached by a road
branching off on the left about 1½ m. below Château Queyras; as well
as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets, St. Veran, Pierre
Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at Arvieux, St. Veran,
and Fousillarde, in all of which service is performed once in three
weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a week in each parish”
(see p. 304, and _Murray_, p. 216). A little higher up the left or S.
bank of the Guil is the Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent.,
and an inn. 18 m. from Mont Dauphin is +Aiguilles+, pop. 700, with an
inn, on the right bank of the Guil. 21 m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5½
hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso, is Abriés, with an inn and
Romanesque church, the highest village in the valley of the Guil.
Although Abriés is a convenient halting-place, it is a most
unattractive spot as headquarters. 4 m. S.E. from +Abriés+ on the Guil
is La Monta, with custom-house, where France is left.
For Perosa to Mont Dauphin, see p. 307; Torre-Pèllice to Mont Dauphin,
p. 306; Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin, p. 308, and map p. 304.
+Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont Viso+, 65 m. E. From Mont Dauphin a
good road extends 21 m. E. to Abriés, the highest village in the
valley of the Guil, 5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From
Abriés a mule-path leads over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on
the S. flank of Monte Meidassa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7½ m. E. from
the Col. 8 m. beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief
town in the valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5 m. farther E., on
the road to Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about
17 m. S., to Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the principal village in the valley
of the Vraita. Saluzzo is 14 m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25 m.
N.E. from Sampeyre (see p. 307, and map p. 304).
[Headnote: MONT PELVOUX.]
45¼ m. N.E. from Gap, and 9½ m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is +La
Bessée+, 3420 ft. above the sea, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste.
Here passengers alight for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of
Val Louise, about 6½ m. W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see
p. 333). 10½ m. N. from La Bessée is Briançon (see p. 333). “Nearly
opposite La Bessée to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which
terminates in the glaciers and peaks of the +Mont Pelvoux+, whose top,
rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is visible from the road in
clear weather. The Val Louise branches into two; that on the right
leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des Arcines, is a mass of
ice. By the other branch there is a difficult pass, called Col de
Celar, into the Val Godemar. Within the Val Louise was a cavern called
Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people having concealed
themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their children and as
much food as they could collect, relying on its inaccessible position
and the snows around for their defence. When the officer despatched by
Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the valley, none of its
inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing out their
hiding-place, he commanded a quantity of wood to be set fire to at the
mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain in
attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks
below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the
caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is
believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this
valley. The cavern has fallen, and is nearly buried in the _débris_.
The present inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable
goitred race.” --_Murray_, p. 218.
miles from MARSEILLES
miles to GRENOBLE
{126}{64}
+ASPRES+, pop. 2000, 2493 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Ferdinand. Junction
with road to Livron, 68 m. W., on E. side of Rhône (see p. 46). The road
after leaving Aspres crosses the Col de Cabres, and then proceeds
westwards by the valley of the Drôme (see p. 47).
{154½}{35½}
+CLELLES+, 2400 ft., pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Lion d’Or. Station to alight at
to make the ascent of Mont Aiguille, a limestone rock 6880 ft. high,
near Chichiliane, about 7 m. distant towards Die.
{163}{27}
+MONESTIER DE CLERMONT+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Europe; France. Cold
acidulous spring for diseases of the kidneys and stomach.
[Headnote: VIF.]
{177}{13}
+VIF+, pop. 3000. At the foot of a calcareous ridge, which connects Mt.
Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt. Moucherolle, 7509 ft.
[Headnote: VIZILLE.]
{181}{9}
+VIZILLE+, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the
Vigillia of the Romans, is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right
bank of the Romanche, with a castle built by Lesdiguières, now restored
and used as a manufactory (see p. 333).
{185}{5}
+PONT DE CLAIX+, pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000
ft. high (see p. 328).
{190}{ }
+GRENOBLE.+ (See p. 324.)
+Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne.+
See fly-leaf, and Map of the Rhône and Savoy, p. 27.
miles from PARIS
miles to LYONS
{ }{349}
+PARIS.+ For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne à Lyon par Saint
Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important
junction of St. Germain-des-Fossés, see pp. 351 to 358.
{220}{129}
+ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES.+ All the trains halt here.
{231}{118}
+LA PALISSE+, pop. 3000, on the Bèbre. The ruined castle on the
eminence overlooking the town was built in the 14th century.
{235½}{113½}
+ARFEUILLES+, pop. 3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle
of Montmorillon, 15th cent.
{262}{87}
+ROANNE+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A busy,
well-built, manufacturing town, on the Loire and the canal of Digoin,
possessing many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the
most noteworthy are--the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th
cent.; the ruins of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built
by the Jesuit Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills
employ 1200 workmen, and the annual value of the produce is
£1,120,000. After Roanne, the line to St. Etienne and Le Puy passes
through a picturesque country among the Cevennes and their
offshoots.
{282}{67}
+FEURS+, pop. 4000, on the Loire. _Inn:_ Poste. This, the ancient
Forum Segusinorum, contains several antiquities, and a church partly
of the 12th century. In the neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring,
called La Fontaine des Quatre. Many Roman remains.
{297½}{51½}
+SAINT GALMIER+, pop. 3100, on the Coise. _Hotel:_ Poste. Springs of
mineral water of great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It
is exported, and not utilised on the spot (see p. 348).
{312}{37}
+SAINT ETIENNE+, 1770 ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. _Hotels:_ Nord;
France; both first-class. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less
expensive, and frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe
the diligences start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple
Protestant. East from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the
Palais de Justice, a large handsome building.
This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in
summer, was founded by the Romans B.C. 56, and from a very early
period became famous for forges and the manufacture of cables,
ribbons, firearms, and “faïence” or crockery. It is situated in the
long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive coal-beds. One
long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne, Paris, Foy, St.
Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing the city into
two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the principal squares or
“Places.” In nearly the centre of this street, where it is intersected
by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading northwards to the
railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the west end, the
Post and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the
street called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill
behind, the Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, passing an
artificial grotto. Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some
of the many weavers of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure
to visitors. On the summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and
church, surmounted with a gilded image of the Virgin. The road from
this convent, down the hill, passes the church of St. Etienne, built
in the 12th cent., containing some beautiful glass, and a relief
representing the martyrdom of St. Etienne.
[Headnote: MUSEUMS--MANUFACTURES.]
A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the PALAIS
DES ARTS, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The Picture
Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections of
specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are
the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under glass-cases are the
separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including
locks, triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and balls. The
centre room upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern.
The most striking is, “Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves.”
On one side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and
on the other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and
furniture. In a separate saloon is the faïence, consisting chiefly of
plates. In the second storey is the MUSEE DE FABRIQUE. In the centre
of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls, under
glass, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and
arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although
most remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be passed by, as
simply very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting
posture representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of
Wales, woven by Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this
room. In the lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the
varied fabrics from the looms of St. Etienne. The annual value of the
silk manufactures is estimated at £3,300,000, employing 40,000 workmen
and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which 165,000 work organzines and
trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended for crapes and gauze
ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in all at 65,000 for
weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields occupy nearly 85
square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an average annually
£1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long street, opposite
the gas-works, are the Manufacture d’Armes of the Government, and
adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large establishment is under
the superintendence of artillery officers of high rank, and employs
about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private gun manufactories
throughout the town, which turn out annually as many as 300,000 stand
of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade of St. Etienne
is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes, and is north
from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street, the Rue de
la Badouillière.
[Headnote: ROCHETAILLÉE.]
_Excursions._--Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with large
hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called the
+Gouffre d’Enfer+. 2½ m. farther by the same road is the village of
Rochetaillée. This is also the road to take to ascend Mont Pilat.
A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat, 10 m. from St. Etienne.
Thence a path leads to the farm of the Perdrix, 7 m. farther, where
pass the night. Mont Pilat has two peaks--the Trois Dents, 4480 ft.,
and the Crête de la Perdrix, 4705 ft.
14½ m. by rail from St. Etienne is the St. Galmier station, 1260 ft.
above the sea (see p. 346). An omnibus awaits passengers for the town,
1½ m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station. It is a poor place
with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the foot of the hill
are the mineral springs and the establishments for bottling the water.
The springs are at a considerable distance below the surface, reached
by deep shafts, like the “Source Remy,” cased with masonry, and
furnished with spiral staircases.
From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line, an omnibus
starts for St. Alban, 6¼ m. distant, with a hotel and bathing
establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs.
Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d’Estreaux, a coach
awaits passengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3¼ m. from the station. The
bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is supplied by
six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and iron.
St. Germains is the station for Vichy (p. 358).
+Paris to Lyons by Tarare.+
Distance, 318 miles. Time, 17½ hours.
miles from PARIS
miles to LYONS
{ }{318}
+PARIS.+ This route is the same as the preceding as far as Roanne. For
time-tables, see under “Paris, Tarare, et Lyon.” The route becomes
picturesque after Roanne.
[Headnote: ROANNE.]
{262}{56}
+ROANNE.+ (See p. 346.) 5 m. S.E. is L’Hôpital, and 19 m. more the
manufacturing town of Amplepuis, pop. 7000, at the foot of a hill 1525
ft. above the sea-level, producing considerable quantities of muslin,
calico, cotton, and linen cloth. 3 m. from Amplepuis commences the
tunnel, 3200 yards, which pierces the ridge that separates the basin of
the Loire from the Rhône. The temperature of the Rhône basin in winter
is rawer and colder than that of the Loire.
[Headnote: TARARE.]
{288}{30}
+TARARE+, pop. 15,000. _Hotel:_ Europe; an uninteresting and
unattractive manufacturing town on the Turdine, surrounded by steep
mountains, among which is Mont Chevrier, one of the highest summits of
the Beaujolais range. At the low end of the town is the railway station,
and at the high end the viaduct of 21 arches across the valley of the
Turdine. The arch which crosses the road has a span of 95 ft., the
others average 35 ft. About 60,000 men in the town and environs are
employed in the manufacture of velvet, embroidery, trimming, and
especially in the particular kind of muslin called “tarlatan,” a thin
gauze-like fabric, for which it is celebrated.
{318}{ }
+LYONS+ (see p. 29).
[Headnote: MONTBRISON.]
+Lyons to Clermont-Ferrand+,
121 m. W. by GIVORS-CANAL, ST. ETIENNE, MONTBRISON, and THIERS.
At Givors-Canal passengers for stations on the west side of the Rhône
change carriages. From Givors-Canal to St. Etienne the train passes
towns with coal-mines and large smelting works and foundries. At St.
Etienne (p. 346) a long halt is generally made. A little way up from
the station will be found the steam tram, which, after traversing the
best part of the town, returns to this terminus. 56½ m. W. from Lyons
and 64½ m. E. from Clermont is +Montbrison+ on the Vizezy, pop. 6700.
_Inn:_ H. Lion d’Or. An uninteresting town, whose public buildings
occupy religious edifices, secularised after the revolution of 1793.
Of these the most prominent is the Palais de Justice, in the convent
and church of the nuns of “Sainte Marie.”
Behind the inn is the parish church of N. D. d’Esperance, founded in
1223, but recently repaired. The west portal (restored), with its
heavy square tower and buttresses, was built in 1443 by order of
Charles I. de Bourbon. The most interesting part is the five-sided
apse, with in each side one long lancet window, and above it two small
windows separated by an impost colonnette. To each corner is attached
diagonally a long, narrow, slightly receding buttress. The church is
206 ft. long, and 62 ft. high from the pavement to the roof. At the E.
end of the N. aisle is the mausoleum to Count “Fores and Niver, Guigo
IV.,” who founded the church in MCCXXIII. Opposite is the monument to
the jurist Vernato, d. MCCCLVIII.
[Headnote: SALLE DES ETATS.]
Fronting the E. end of the church is the Salle des Etats (house of
Parliament) du Forez, built about the year 1300 by Jean I., Comte de
Forez, and recently restored by the Duc de Persigny from plans by
Violet-le-Duc. The name was afterwards changed into the Salle de la
Diana (decana), from having been converted into the chapter-house of
the church. It now contains the library of the Diana society, who also
hold their meetings here. It is 64 ft. long, 26¼ ft. wide, and 26¼ ft.
high. The roof is entirely covered with small painted representations
of the escutcheons of the Counts of Forez, and of every family that
has possessed land in the territory. The large end windows are modern
additions. The chimney-piece, though modern, occupies the place of the
original one.
Less than ½ m. from the inn, by the Clermont road, is a cold mineral
spring, containing bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, with free
carbonic acid gas. It makes a refreshing drink, as well as a tonic and
diuretic. A little farther, about a mile from the town, is the old
untidy village of Moingt, with church 12th cent., and in front of it a
ruined gateway and round tower 13th cent. Montbrison is 49¼ m. W. from
Lyons by the Dombes railway. The Lyons terminus of the Dombes railway
is the station of St. Paul (p. 30).
Between Montbrison and Thiers there is nothing remarkable till just
after St. Remay, the station before Thiers, when the train passes by
the gorge of the Durolle at an immense depth below. At this part the
train traverses eight tunnels, and crosses the valley of the Durolle
by a viaduct of seven arches. 24¼ m. E. from Clermont, 40½ m. W. from
Montbrison, 60 m. W. from St. Etienne, and 96¾ m. W. from Lyons is
[Headnote: THIERS.]
+Thiers+, pop. 16,500, at first a small hamlet beside a fortress
(Tigernum castrum) and a chapel dedicated to St. Symphorien (see
p. 367).
Thiers is 72¼ m. N. from Darsac by coach, passing Olliergues,
Vertolaye, Ambert, Marsac, Arlanc, and Chaise-Dieu (see p. 89).
Thiers makes a pleasant railway excursion either from Vichy or
Clermont-Ferrand.
1¼ m. W. from Thiers and 23 m. E. from Clermont-Ferrand is
+Courty.+ Junction with line to St. Germain des Fossés, 27½ m. W.,
passing Vichy, 21½ m. N.
[Headnote: VERTAIZON. BILLOM.]
13 m. W. from Courty and 10 m. E. from Clermont is +Vertaizon+, pop.
2200, situated 1¼ m. S. from the station. Junction with branch line to
+Billom+, 5½ m. S., pop. 4300. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Commerce. A prettily
situated town among hills crowned with ruins of castles from 12th to
16th cents. Church St. Cerneuf, 11th to 13th cents.
The train from Vertaizon takes 30 minutes to reach +Clermont-Ferrand+
(see p. 369).
+Paris to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes.+
This Route conducts to the volcanic region of Central France; to the
famous Spas of Vichy, Royat, Mont-Dore, Bourboule, and St. Nectaire;
and to the best towns for studying the architecture of Auvergne. (See
Maps, pp. 1 and 27.)
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{ }{530}
+PARIS.+ Start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris à Lyon,
and request a ticket for Nîmes by Clermont-Ferrand. The first stations
passed are Brunoy (p. 2), Melun (p. 2), and Fontainebleau (p. 3). At
Moret, 42 m. S.E. from Paris, the rail to Marseilles by Nevers and Nîmes
separates from the rail to Marseilles by Dijon and Lyon. (For Moret, see
p. 10.)
{73}{457}
+MONTARGIS+, pop. 10,000, on the Loing and the canal Briare. _Inns:_
Poste; France. The principal street leads directly from the station to
the Hôtel de la Poste at the opposite end of the town. The streets about
the old castle are narrow and dirty, and some of them steep. This
castle, rebuilt by Charles V., called formerly the “berceau des enfants
de France,” became private property in 1809. A house has been built
within the circle of the crumbling walls, of which a 14th cent, gateway
still stands.
The parish church is of different epochs--the nave and the aisles belong
to the 12th cent., and the chancel, which is four steps higher, to the
16th. It is supported on ten tall slender columns, from which the
groining of the roof ramifies in all directions.
The town fairs are held in the promenade, called the Patis. In the
adjoining forest, covering 21,030 acres, is the Dolmen of Paucourt.
Montargis is a great railway junction on one of the main lines between
Paris and the south of France.
10 m. S. by rail from Montargis is Nogent-sur-Vernisson, station for
Châtillon-sur-Loing. Time, 75 minutes; fare, 1 fr. Admiral Coligny was
born in 1516 in the old castle of this place, situated in the midst of
the hereditary domain of the family.
{96}{434}
+GIEN+, pop. 7600. _Inns:_ Poste; Paris. An old town on the Loire, and
an important railway junction. On the hill rising from the town is the
church of St. Pierre, flanked by a square tower, 15th cent., commanding
an admirable view. Adjoining is the château, a handsome edifice built in
1494 by Anne de Beaujeu, daughter of Louis XI. It is now occupied by the
Préfecture. Below, in the town, is the church of St. Louis, 17th cent.
38 m. N.W. by branch line is Orleans (see pp. 148 and 151 in Black’s
_Normandy_).
[Headnote: BRIARE.]
{102½}{427½}
+BRIARE+, pop. 5200. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste. A pleasant town on the
Loire, where large quantities of buttons are manufactured. 3 m. farther
S. by rail is Châtillon-sur-Loire, pop. 3300. Inn: H. des Trois Rois;
omnibus awaits passengers.
[Headnote: COSNE.]
{121}{409}
+COSNE+, pop. 7000. _Inns_: Grand Cerf; Belle Étoile. This little town,
with ironworks of considerable importance, and still retaining parts of
its old fortifications and castle, is situated on the Loire at its
junction with the Nohain. The best of the churches is St. Aignan, of
which the portal and apse are of the 11th cent.; the rest is modern.
6½ m. farther S. by rail is Sancerre on the Loire, pop. 3700. _Inn:_
Pointe du Jour. With castle, 13th cent., on a hill 987 ft. above the
sea. In the neighbourhood are important quarries.
{138}{392}
+POUILLY-SUR-LOIRE+, pop. 3500. _Inn:_ Écu. The surrounding vineyards
produce a famous white wine, with a peculiar flavour. It is drinkable in
the second year, and deteriorates after the 15th.
{141}{389}
+LA CHARITÉ+, built on a hill sloping down from the railway to the
Loire, crossed by both a stone and suspension bridge. _Inns:_ Poste et
G. Monarque; Dauphin; omnibuses await passengers. It has still part of
its fortifications and towers of the 14th cent. Of the church St. Croix,
consecrated in 1107 by Pope Pascal II., there remain a vast narthex, the
choir, and a high and profusely ornamented tower. This church belonged
to a Benedictine convent, whose deeds of charity gave to the town its
name. The convent is now occupied by the order of the Visitandines
(Visitation). In the treasury are the chasuble and mitre of St. François
de Sales.
[Headnote: POUGUES LES EAUX.]
{150}{380}
+POUGUES LES EAUX+, pop. 1400. _Hotels:_ Near the station, the H. du
Châlet. At the entrance into the avenue, the H. de l’Etablissement, and
opposite the “Etablissement,” the Hôtel Thermal. Pougues, being a quiet
place, can be recommended only to those in search of repose, whose
stomach or other internal organs have become weak or deranged. The
establishment, which has every kind of apparatus for administering the
water, is situated in a park extending to the Loire, where fair
rod-fishing may be had. The water, principally used internally, is cold,
has a pungent taste, and contains a large amount of carbonic acid gas,
both free and in combination with lime, soda, potash, magnesia, and
iron, and is serviceable in the cure of dyspepsia, enlargement of the
liver, gall-stones, and diseases of the kidneys. Douche baths of
carbonic acid gas are employed.
[Headnote: FOURCHAMBAULT.]
{154}{376}
+FOURCHAMBAULT+, pop. 6500. _Inns:_ H. Bourges at station; in town,
H. Berry. A town on the Loire full of large ironworks, employing above
5000 workmen. The Colonne de Juillet and the Pont du Carrousel were cast
here. Omnibus at station.
[Headnote: NEVERS.]
{158}{372}
+NEVERS+, pop. 20,400. _Hotels:_ at the station, H. de la Paix; H. du
Chemin de Fer. In the town the France, Europe, and Nièvre. A short
distance N.W. from the station, or from the N.W. corner of the Park, is
the nunnery of St. Giddard, containing the tomb of Bernadette Soubirous,
to which establishment she was entrusted after her reported interviews
with the “immaculately conceived one,” and where she died, after a
lingering illness, caused, it is said, by the knowledge that the present
pope had not the same implicit faith in her story as his predecessor Pio
IX. entertained (see under Lourdes, in Black’s _South France_, West
Half). In the garden of the convent, in a small chapel, is her grave,
covered by a marble slab bearing the following inscription:-- “Ici
repose, dans la paix du Seigneur, Bernadette Soubirous, honorée à
Lourdes en 1858 de plusieurs apparitions de la Très Sainte Vierge. En
religion Sœur Marie Bernard, décédée à Nevers, à la Maison-Mère des
Sœurs de la Charité, le 16 Avril 1879 dans le 35e année de son age et la
12me de sa profession religieuse. C’est ici le lieu. Psalm 131, v. 15.”
[Headnote: FAÏENCE.]
Julius Cæsar kept his military stores in Nevers; but after his defeat at
Gergovia (p. 372) the inhabitants plundered his camp and massacred the
soldiers. Of the old fortifications there remain the tower of the Loire,
of which the lower part is of the 11th cent.; the tower of St. Eloi,
16th cent.; the tower Goguin, 12th cent.; and the Porte du Croux,
a square tower of the 12th cent., but rebuilt in 1393, now containing an
antiquarian museum. At the entrance into the town by the Paris road is a
triumphal arch, erected in 1746 to commemorate the victory of Fontenoy,
12th May 1745, when the French defeated the Anglo-German and Dutch
forces under the Duke of Cumberland. Nevers stands on the slope of a
hill rising from the Loire in the midst of a flat country abounding with
iron, giving employment to important ironworks. In the most elevated
part is the Grande Place, with the +Palais de Justice+, formerly the
Palais Ducal, a stately edifice built in 1475 by Jean de Clamecy, Comte
de Nevers, but altered and enlarged during the 16th cent. by his
successors, belonging to the families of Clèves and Gonzaga. It is in
the form of a parallelogram, flanked with four towers, each containing a
staircase. In the centre turret is the “Escalier d’honneur,” ornamented
with sculpture representing scenes connected with the history of the
house of Clèves. The market-place occupies the site of the old Palais de
Justice, built in 1400 by Philippe de Bourgogne. Opposite the Palais de
Justice is a fountain by Lequesne. In the Hôtel de Ville are the
Library, the Picture Gallery, and an interesting collection of faïence,
which has been manufactured at Nevers for eight centuries. Faïence is
the French term for all descriptions of glazed earthenware, and
corresponds nearly to the English word “crockery.” The manufacture of
majolica or enamelled pottery was introduced into France by Catherine de
Médicis and her kinsman Louis Gonzaga, who, by marriage with Henrietta
of Clèves in 1565, became Duke of Nevers. There are still important
pottery works in the town.
[Headnote: CASSINI.]
Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Cathedral of St. Cyr,
reconstructed in the 13th cent., with parts belonging to other epochs.
The nave was rebuilt in 1188, the N. portal in 1240, the choir in the
14th cent., and the S. portal, which is flamboyant in style, adorned
with complicated mouldings, in the 15th cent. In the interior we find a
western and eastern apse; the former, 16th cent., covers a crypt of the
11 th cent. Statuettes like Caryatides sustain the columns of the
triforium. On the floor of the western end is the meridian traced by the
astronomer Cassini while engaged in the triangulation of France.
The church of St. Etienne, 1097, is in the Romanesque style. St. Père
was built in 1512, St. Genest, now in ruins, in the 12th cent., and the
chapel of the Visitandines in 1639.
32½ m. E. by rail is Cercy la Tour, where a coach awaits passengers for
the comfortable bathing establishment of St. Honoré. The water is hot,
and in chemical composition resembles very much the springs in the
Pyrenees. Hotel at the establishment. (See map, p. 1.)
[Headnote: VARZY. CLAMECY.]
Junction with branch to La Roche, 108 m. N. on the direct line between
Paris and Turin (see p. 14). On this branch line, 8¾ m. N. from Nevers,
is Guerigny, pop. 3050, on the Nièvre, with the important ironworks
called the Forges de la Chaussade, employing upwards of 1300 men. 24¼ m.
farther by the same line is Varzy, pop. 2890; _Inn:_ H. de la Poste;
with a very beautiful church, St. Père, 13th and 14th cents., surmounted
by two square towers. In the interior are an elegant triforium and a
beautiful Flemish painting (1535) of the Martyrdom of St. Eugenie. 44 m.
S. from La Roche and 64 m. N. from Nevers is Clamecy, pop. 5400 (p. 15);
_Inns:_ Boule d’Or; Univers; *Poste; on the junction of the Yonne with
the Beuvron. On the bridge across the Yonne is a bronze bust by David of
Jean Rouvet, the inventor of those large rafts by which the wood from
the forests is floated down to Paris and other parts. In the church of
St. Martin, 12th to 15th cent., are a statue of Ste. Geneviève by
Simart, a handsome organ-case of the 16th cent., and a beautiful reredos
on the high altar. Under the markets are the vaults of the old castle of
the Dukes of Nevers. The Palais de Justice, the gendarmerie, and the
prison occupy one large building.
22 m. N. from Clamecy is Cravant (p. 14), an important railway junction.
Junction also at Nevers with line to Chagny, 178 m. E. (see p. 24).
Branch to Le Creusot and Autun (see p. 24).
[Headnote: SAINCAIZE.]
{154}{ }
+SAINCAIZE+, 600 ft. above sea; junction with line to Bourges, 38 m. W.
(See Black’s _South France_, West Half.)
[Headnote: MOULINS.]
{195}{335}
+MOULINS+, pop. 22,000. _Hotels:_ At the station, H. du Chemin de Fer;
in. the town, Dauphin, Paris, France, Allier. Omnibuses at the station.
A cheerful town with extensive boulevards and pleasant walks along the
banks of the Allier, crossed by a bridge built in 1763, of 13 arches,
and 328 yards long. In the centre of the town is the Cathedral of Notre
Dame, in the transition florid style of the 15th cent. The façade, over
which rise two handsome spires, is of white sandstone, with colonnettes
of dark Volvic lava. The tops of the buttresses are adorned with
statues. The choir, which is seven steps higher than the nave, is
lighted by windows containing valuable 16th cent. glass, and covered
with a curious roof. In the chapel to the right of the altar is a small
mausoleum with a recumbent figure illustrating the condition of even the
fairest forms after death. Under the altar, in a little crypt, is an
Entombment. In the first chapel, N. side of the choir, is an “Adoration
of the Virgin” of considerable merit. Opposite the main entrance is a
large square tower called “La tour mal coiffée,” 15th cent., now a
prison, which, with the handsome portico of the Gendarmerie, formed part
of the famous castle of the Dukes of Bourbon. The most interesting old
houses are within and around the Place de l’Allier. In that square is
also the church of St. Nicolas, built in the style of the 13th cent. In
the chapel of the Lycée, No. 15 Rue de Paris, a little beyond the Palais
de Justice, is the marble mausoleum, by Coustou, Anguier, Renaudan and
Poipant, of Henri II., Duc de Montmorenci, godson of Henri IV., and one
of the bravest marshals of France. He had the misfortune to draw upon
himself the enmity of Cardinal Richelieu and the displeasure of Louis
XIII., which led to his execution in the Capitole of Toulouse on the
30th October 1632, where the knife is still preserved. His widow, Maria
Orsini, caused his body to be brought to this chapel, then belonging to
the convent of the nuns “de la Visitation.” The statues, all of the
finest Carrara marble, represent the duke in a half-recumbent posture
and the duchess seated near him. Fee, ½ fr. In the Hôtel de Ville is the
public library, with 25,000 vols. and a manuscript Bible of the 12th
cent, called the Souvigny Bible. The town clock, with its moving
statues, is mounted on a square tower, 15th cent., 40 ft. high.
[Headnote: DUKE OF BERWICK. STERNE’S MARIA.]
Lord Clarendon, while on his way from Montpellier to Rouen, stayed some
time at Moulins, where he wrote a part of his _History of the
Rebellion_, which he finished while resident in Rouen, where he died on
the 9th of December 1674, after having appealed twice in vain to
Charles II. to be allowed to return to England. James Fitz-James, Duke
of Berwick, a marshal and peer of France, natural son of James Duke of
York, afterwards James II., by Arabella Churchill, sister of the great
Duke of Marlborough, was born at Moulins on the 21st of August 1670, and
died 12th June 1734. Montesquieu said of him: “In the works of
Plutarch I have seen at a distance what great men were; in Marshal
Berwick I have seen what they are.” By the side of the Paris road, under
a tree at the northern entrance into Moulins, the forlorn Maria, with
her lute and her dog Sylvie, used to sit. Thwarted in love by the
intrigues of the parish curate, she became the prey to a deep-seated
melancholy. (See Sterne’s _Sentimental Journey_, “Maria.”)
[Headnote: SOUVIGNY.]
9 m. W. from Moulins by rail is +Souvigny+, pop. 4000. _Hotel:_ Croix
d’Or. At the end of the village farthest from the station is a beautiful
basilica, commenced in the 10th cent and rebuilt and restored at various
periods. It is 275 ft. long, 125 broad, and 56 high. In the Chapelle
Vieille, to the right of the high altar, is the mausoleum of Louis II.,
Duc de Bourbon, and Anne his wife. On the other side is that of Duc
Charles I. and Anne de Bourgogne his wife. Both chapels are enclosed in
a stone screen with delicate flamboyant tracery. To the left of the
principal entrance is an ancient column with the signs of the Zodiac
sculptured on it. N. from the church, on the opposite side of the
street, is the old castle of the Bourbons, occupied by people of humble
rank. From the Souvigny station an omnibus runs 10 m. N. to Bourbon
l’Archambault, passing at about half-way St. Menoux (Hôtel de l’Écu). It
stops in front of the church just sufficient time to allow the traveller
to cast a rapid glance over this pleasing specimen of Aquitaine and
Auvergne architecture of the 11th cent. (See map, p. 1.)
[Headnote: BOURBON-L’ARCHAMBAULT-BATHS. ST. PARDOUX SPRING.]
+Bourbon-l’Archambault+, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Close to the bathing
establishment, the Hôtel Montespan, on the site of the house which used
to be occupied by Madame de Montespan and Louis XIV. About 100 yds.
distant the Hôtel de France. On a hill at the northern side of this
ancient town are the ruins of the once strong feudal castle of Bourbon,
commenced by Louis I. in 1321, and finished in the 15th cent, by Duc
Pierre II. Four massive towers, built of stone, with projecting points,
still remain of the twenty-four which it had originally.
On a hill at the opposite side of the town is the parish church,
commenced in the 12th cent., resembling the church of St. Menoux. In
the centre of the town is the copious spring of mineral water which,
besides supplying the bathing establishment, is largely used for
drinking and domestic purposes. It is clear, inodorous, unctuous,
easily digested, slightly saline and aperient, and 128° Fahr.
One-sixth of its volume is free carbonic acid gas, besides the same
acid in combination with lime, magnesia, and soda; and some salts of
bromine, iodine, and iron. It is eminently diaphoretic, diuretic, and
tonic, and excellent for rheumatism, rheumatic gout, and scrofula.
Between the bathing establishment and the church is the cold water
spring called the “Source de Jonas,” containing bicarbonates of lime
and magnesia, chlorides of soda and magnesia, silicates of lime,
alumina, and soda, the carbonate of iron and the oxide of manganese.
The water is tonic and slightly laxative. 9½ m. S. from Bourbon is
+St. Pardoux+, in a wooded and hilly country, forming one of the best
drives from Bourbon. There is here a spring of remarkably sparkling
water, ⅚ths of its volume being free carbonic acid gas. It contains
the bicarbonates of lime, magnesia, and soda, silicates of lime and
alumina, and the oxide of iron. It is delightful to the taste, very
pungent, and, owing to the presence of so much carbonic acid gas,
slightly heady. It is an excellent tonic, highly diuretic, and
stimulates the secretion of bile. It is sold in litre bottles at
Bourbon at 3d. per bottle. Madame Montespan, when in the height of her
power, used regularly to visit Bourbon to recruit her health, and here
she died, in solitude, on the 25th of May 1707, cast off and deserted
by Louis XIV. 33 m. W. from Souvigny by rail is Commentry (see map,
p. 1).
From Moulins branch line extends 73 m. E. to Montchanin, passing, at
17½ m. E. from Moulins, Dompierre; at 23 m. E., Gilly, station for
Bourbon-Lancy; 29¼ m. E., Saint Agnan; 35 m. E., Digoin; and 41½ m.
E., Paray-le-Monial (see p. 27, and map, p. 1).
+Dompierre-sur-Bebre+, pop. 2230. _Inns:_ Commerce; Lion d’Or. Coal
and iron found in this neighbourhood. The country is undulating and
well cultivated. Near the next station, Diou on the Loire, is the
Cistercian abbey of Sept-Fonds, founded in 1132, rebuilt in the 17th
cent., and now an agricultural school.
[Headnote: GILLY.]
+Gilly+, station for +Bourbon-Lancy+, pop. 3300, 8¾ m. N. by the
Loire. Coach awaits passengers at station, fare 1½ fr. _Inn:_: H.
Trois Barbeaux, where carriages for drives can be had. The village,
situated on an eminence, is full of old houses, of which the best are
near the clock-tower, 15th cent. In the valley at the foot of the
eminence is the suburb of +St. Leger+, with an excellent small
+Bathing Establishment+, supplied by five alkaline springs, temp. 132°
Fahrenheit, which flow into large basins in the court fronting the
baths. The water contains free carbonic acid gas and 19 grains of the
chloride of sodium to the pint. In lesser quantities the chlorides of
calcium and magnesium, the sulphate of soda, the carbonates of lime
and magnesia, and the oxide of iron. In Vichy the drinking of the
water is the most important, but here it is the external application
by baths and other means. They are very serviceable in the cure of
nervous and cutaneous diseases, in neuralgia of the face, and in every
form of rheumatism. The baths are of marble and easily entered, and
furnished with ingenious contrivances to facilitate the application of
the water to any particular part. Near the Casino, and standing by
itself, is a swimming bath, 62 ft. long by 29½ wide and 5 deep, filled
with the mineral water cooled down to 90° Fahr. The surplus water is
still carried off by the underground channels constructed by the
Romans. At intervals along their course perpendicular shafts are sunk
down to the bed of the outlet.
On a height near the bathing establishment is a hospital built by M.
and Mme. Aligre, and given by them to the town. A monument to their
memory is in the Place of St. Leger, and a replica of the statue of
Madame in silver is in the hospital. _Inns:_ Opposite the
establishment, the *Grand Hotel, 12 frs., and the G. H. des Termes,
pension 8½ frs. A little farther, the G. H. des Bains, 7½ frs.; for a
lady, 6 frs. Opposite, the H. Allier. The charge for the baths and
Casino is very reasonable. For particulars write to M. Le Regisseur
des Bains de Bourbon-Lancy. The surrounding country is of considerable
interest, the Loire is within an easy walk, while several important
cities are within a few hours by rail.
A little beyond Gilly is Saint Agnan on the Loire. _Inn:_ H. de
Marion. A small town in the midst of iron and coal mines. 6 m. farther
is +Digoin+, pop. 3300. Inns: H. des Diligences, in the town; at the
station, the H. de la Gare. Church of the llth cent. Suspension bridge
across the Loire.
[Headnote: ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSÉS.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{220}{310}
+ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES+, 845 ft. above the sea. Large refreshment
rooms. Always a great deal of traffic at this station. Change carriages
for Vichy. Behind the station, on a little eminence, is the inn G. H. du
Pare (bed 2 frs.), with garden. At the warehouse end of the station is
the inn H. de la Gare. In the village, the Paix. 7 m. S. from St.
Germain and 227 m. S. from Paris is
[Map: Vichy]
[Headnote: HOTELS AND THEIR CHARGES.]
VICHY
on the Allier, pop. 7000, 8 hrs. by express from Paris. _Hotels:_ The
largest and best are around the Parc. Of them the most elegantly
furnished are:--The Nouvel Hôtel, pension 25 frs.; the H. Parc, 12 to 20
frs.; Ambassadeurs, 12 to 20 frs.; Mombrun, 12 to 20 frs.; and the Grand
Hôtel, 12 to 16 frs., all first-class.
The following, also round the Parc, are equally comfortable, but the
furniture is not so costly.
The H. des Thermes, 10 to 12 frs., adjoining the Villa Strauss, in
which Napoleon III. resided; Cherbourg, 9½ to 15½ frs.; the Princes,
9½ to 15½ frs.; the G. H. de la Paix, 12¾ to 15¾ frs.; the G. H. Velay
et des Anglais, 9½ to 13½ frs.; Royal Hotel, Amirauté, 7½ to 10½ frs.;
and H. de la Restauration. Almost adjoining the Ambassadeurs, the H.
Moliere, 8½ to 12½ frs., a smaller house. In all the above hotels,
excepting in the first three, servants are taken at the rate of 6 frs.
per day. The above prices include everything except the charge of
1 fr. for candles at the end of the stay.
Adjoining the north corner of the Etablissement, near the Grande
Grille, is the G. H. des Bains, 9 to 14 frs. Opposite the
Etablissement, the H. Britannique, 7½ to 10 frs.; the Richelieu, 8½ to
10½ frs.; and behind it the H. Grande Grille, 8½ to 11½ frs., a more
handsome house.
In the Rue Petit, near the Châlets in the Boulevard National, *H.
d’Amerique, 9 to 10 frs., a clean quiet house, generally full.
In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville at the south end of the Parc are the
H. d’Espagne, 6½ to 10 frs., a small house served principally by the
family; and the Deux-Mondes, 8½ to 10½ frs., fronting likewise the
Place Rosalie. The fraction in the prices is for service.
In the Place Rosalie are the +Source de l’Hôpital+ and the Banque de
Vichy, where circular notes are cashed and money changed.
In the Rue de Nîmes, a busy street, separated from the Parc by a row
of houses, is the H. de Nice, 8½ to 10 frs.; one side faces the
church. On the other side of the church is the *H. Notre Dame, 9½ to
10½ frs. Then follow the G. H. du Centre, 7 to 10 frs.; H. Fénélon; H.
du Regence, 8 to 9½ frs.; Orleans and Milan same price.
In the Rue de Paris, the street between the town and the railway
station, are the G. H. du Louvre et de Reims, 7 to 10 frs., open all
the year; Univers, 8 to 10 frs.; *Rome, 7½ to 9½ frs.; the Suisse; H.
Dubessay; *Couronne, 8½ to 9½ frs.; Beaujolais; Brest, 7 to 8½ frs.;
Cote d’Or, 7 to 7½ frs.; Globe, 7 frs., open all the year--all between
the railway station and the Etablissement.
At the end of the Rue de Paris, in the Rue de Ballore, the G. Hôtel
Maussant, 8 to 10 frs. In the Avenue Victoria, behind the military
hospital, and in front of the petrifying spring, is the H. de
Provence, 6 to 9 frs. In front of hospital, Hotel Lucas.
In the Rue de Nîmes, between the Parc and the Parc des Celestins, are
the G. H. Palais, 7½ to 10 frs.; Genève; Milan; Bordeaux. Near the
entrance into the Parc des Celestins, the H. Venise, 8 to 9 frs. and
the H. Palais-Royal.
There are a great many maisons meublées, in which furnished rooms are
let at prices varying from 4 to 8 frs., and ½ fr. for service. Lodgers
can always have a breakfast prepared for them of coffee, bread, and
eggs, without any extra charge, but the dinner is more troublesome.
Among the maisons meublées are the Villa Sévigné (in which Madame
resided) in the Boulevard National, near the Source Larbaud.
Travellers wishing to inspect the hotels and maisons meublées before
deciding which to take should alight at one of the hotels in the Rue
de Paris, as they are nearest the station, and sufficiently
comfortable without being expensive.
Close to the principal establishment, in the Rue Lucas, is one of the
best apothecary shops, the Pharmacie Durin, where information
regarding the different doctors can be had.
Vichy, during the season, from 15th May till the end of September,
forms a most enjoyable residence. It is full of comfortable hotels
presided over by civil landlords, charging various prices from 6½ to
25 frs. per day, which includes wine, service, and everything else.
The best situations are the Parc and in the contiguous streets.
Tastefully-planned grounds, called the Neuf Parc, extend between the
town and the Allier, crossed here by a handsome bridge, on the site
where Caesar built his wooden bridge. On an eminence at the southern
end of Vichy are the old town and the old parish church of St. Blaise,
13th and 14th cents. In works undertaken for the railway numerous
coins have been dug up bearing the effigy of the Gallic chief
Vercingetorix, as well as many Roman objects belonging to all the
epochs of the empire. In 1402 Louis II., Duke of Bourbon, surrounded
Vichy with a moat and fortified walls, within which he erected his
castle; but of it all that remains is the great clock-tower or
belfry.
[Headnote: MINERAL WATER ESTABLISHMENT.]
At the head of the Rue de Paris, on the north end of the Pare, is the
+Mineral Water Establishment+, composed of two large buildings--1st,
The “Grand Etablissement,” containing only first-class baths;
a parallelogram 167 ft. long by 250 broad, provided with 100 cabinets
with baths, and traversed by a gallery from N. to S., having on the
western side the gentlemen’s baths, and on the eastern side the
ladies’. At the extremity of this passage is an inhaling-room. Each
bath costs 2½ frs., including service and linen. An hour and a quarter
is allowed, including dressing. Below the baths are large reservoirs.
In front of the entrance to the central gallery, near the spring
Chomel, is the _office_ for the taking down of the bathers’ names and
for the sale of the bath tickets.
2d, Separated by a narrow street is a similar edifice in which second
and third class baths are given, costing respectively 1½ frs. and 60
c. each. The difference in the price of the baths arises from the
quality of the accommodation and the amount of linen and towels
supplied. The baths themselves are the same, and are filled too from
the same springs. The two buildings contain together 350 baths and 150
shower-baths, and during the season as many as 4000 baths can be given
in a single day. They commence at 3.30 A.M. and continue till 5 P.M.,
but at one part of the season till even later. But it must always be
remembered that the external application of the water is not nearly so
important as the internal. Patients may visit Vichy, at any time; but
the season suited to follow with success the course of treatment is
from the 15th May till the beginning of October. The month of May is
sometimes rainy. August and September are generally the driest months,
and the most equable. The Vichy treatment lasts from 3 to 4 weeks. The
waters are taken in the morning and during the day, and baths daily or
every second day. For elderly people with sanguine and irritable
temperaments and delicate constitutions the duration of the bath
should not be more than 20 or even 15 minutes.
[Headnote: CASINO.]
At the south or opposite end of the Parc is the +Casino+, a handsome
comfortably-furnished edifice. The ballroom is 60 ft. long by 38 wide
and 45 high, and lighted by five large bay windows looking into the
park. The decorations are of the period of Louis XIV., with
elegantly-painted walls and ceiling. A gallery, running across the
building in a lateral direction, separates the ballroom from the
theatre, which occupies the centre of the Casino and contains seats
for 800 persons. The remainder of the building is occupied by the
reading, billiard, and gambling rooms, and a saloon for ladies. One
entrance ticket, 2 frs.; a month, 25 frs. There is music every
morning, a concert in the afternoon, and theatricals in the evening.
A great quantity of journals and reviews are at the disposal of
members; also books, pianos, and music. A professor of billiards is
attached to the Casino.
[Headnote: THE VICHY SPRINGS.]
+The Vichy Springs.+--The Vichy waters are stimulating, but not tonic.
They are gaseous and alkaline, their principal constituents being
carbonic acid and the bicarbonate of soda. They differ materially from
each other only in temperature. They are easily digested and readily
eliminated into the system, where they restore the vitality of the
organs below the diaphragm. None of the springs possess any special
specific property, the best for the patient being that which agrees
best with him. Nevertheless, experience has detected certain
peculiarities which may assist him to discover the most suitable
spring. The maximum quantity which can be taken daily with advantage
is from 24 to 28 oz. The usual dose is four glasses of 5 or 6 oz.,
taken at different times throughout the day, and not necessarily from
the same spring. The water may with advantage be mixed with the wine
taken at dinner. Carafes are filled at the springs without any charge.
In the shops are sold graduated glasses of 150 to 180 grammes, divided
into three equal parts. 30 grammes equal 1 oz.
+The Springs and their peculiarities.+--Under the vestibule of the
principal establishment are three important springs--the Grande
Grille, the Puits-Chomel, and the Mesdames (see plan).
[Headnote: GRANDE-GRILLE, CHOMEL, MESDAMES.]
+The Grande-Grille+, 110° Fahr., is slightly aperient, and is employed
with success by persons suffering from indigestion, obstructions of
the viscera, congestion of the liver, spleen, biliary calculi, and
gravel.
The +Puits-Chomel+, 113° Fahr. The water of this spring possesses
marked anodyne properties, which render it very valuable whenever the
weakened state of the constitution or its irritability requires to be
moderately excited. Of all the Vichy waters it contains the least
carbonic acid without being more difficult of digestion, and as, on
the other hand, it is the most mineralised, it can in many cases
profitably replace the other springs.
+Mesdames+, 61° Fahr., highly chalybeate, is beneficial in cases of
chlorosis, amenorrhœa, and in debility following loss of blood. In
cases where the constitution has been weakened without any evident
derangement it stimulates the energy of the digestive functions so as
to enable the patient to recover his usual strength.
The only other spring in the establishment is the Puits-Carré, 113°
Fahr., which rises in the centre of the building, and is used for
supplying the baths.
[Headnote: PRUNELLE, PARC, HÔPITAL.]
About 100 yards E. from the principal establishment, in a building
opposite the military hospital, is the +Source Prunelle+, a cold
spring, recommended for diseases of the liver, gravel, and calculi.
A little farther E. is the +Source Lucas, 84° Fahr.+, principally
employed in baths for diseases of the skin. As a drink it is
beneficial where the organs are more disturbed than diseased. In the
park, opposite the Hôtel de la Paix, is the +Source du Parc, 71°
Fahr.+, recommended for sluggish action of the digestive organs,
atonic derangement of the intestines, and affections of the bronchial
tube caused by chronic irritation or catarrh. At the N. end of the
Casino, in front of the town hospital, is the +Source de l’Hôpital+ or
Rosalie, 89° Fahr., resembling very much the Grande Grille, but less
exciting. It is recommended to those affected with diseases of the
digestive organs, dyspepsia, gastritis, obstinate diarrhœa, and
dysentery; and is particularly useful to literary men whose digestive
functions are deranged from mental labour. It renders important
service in ovarian tumours and other diseases of females.
[Headnote: CELESTINS.]
A short way up the river by the Boulevard des Celestins are the five
important springs, the +Sources des Celestins+, 54° and 58° Fahr., of
which the nearest is under a handsome artificial grotto. They are
largely exported, and have the same action, the only question being
their respective degree of efficacy. Those who chiefly frequent these
springs are invalids suffering from gout, gravel, and affections of
the urinary organs, whose stomachs are sufficiently sound to be able
to digest the water easily. Otherwise it is best to commence with
either the “Hôpital” or the “Grande Grille” spring. In all cases the
water of the Springs Celestins should be drunk moderately and with
caution. Just beyond the Celestins, at the end of the Boulevard and
near the Parc des Celestins, are the Lardy springs and establishment.
The water, 77° Fahr., which rises from a depth of 620 ft., has a
stimulating action on the mucous membrane of the stomach, is easily
eliminated, and is generally drunk after meals by the Vichy invalids.
“Stomach disorder, attended with heartburn and acidity, is in many
cases capable of being cured or materially relieved by the use of one
or other of the Vichy waters. When complicated with pain (gastralgia)
and diminished power of the stomach, the Hôpital spring in some cases,
the Lardy and Mesdames in others, would be most likely to have a
beneficial effect: in other cases, where a more energetic action is
required, the Grande Grille would be preferable.” --_Dr. E. Lee._
[Headnote: SOURCE HAUTERIVE. INFLUENCE OF VICHY WATER.]
3 m. S. from Vichy, on the W. bank of the Allier, is the +Source
Hauterive+, 57° Fahr., used principally for exportation. In
therapeutical qualities it resembles the Celestins.
The principal use of the Vichy waters is in the treatment of gout, and
in chronic diseases of the stomach and abdominal viscera, such as
dyspepsia, chronic hepatic disease, biliary calculi, fatty
degeneration or cirrhosis, and in hæmorrhoidal affections, which are
so often connected with congestion of the liver. They are equally
serviceable in enlargements of the spleen and in many cases of
hypochondriasis. Moreover, this spa is specially adapted for the cure
of some of the chronic diseases of women connected with disordered
menstruation, and for the anomalous “critical complaints” which often
set in at the period of life when this function ceases. “The complaint
for which nine-tenths of the English visitors drink these springs is
gout; but it should be distinctly understood that Vichy water is not a
specific for gout; it can only act on the gouty diathesis by improving
the tone of the digestive organs, augmenting the secretions, and
correcting the abnormally acid condition of the blood.” --_Madden’s
Health Resorts._ “The Vichy waters do not cure gout. They have,
however, a very beneficial effect when administered with caution in
cases of either hereditary or acquired gout, whether articular or
internal, acute or chronic. The proper time to use the waters is in
the interval of attacks, and as far as possible from the last attack.
If too near the last attack, a repetition is to be feared, and there
is almost as much danger in provoking nature as in resisting its
action in a crisis.” --_Dr. Daumas._ “We may then sum up the effects
of a Vichy course, when judiciously prescribed, as restorative to the
digestive and assimilative functions, and invigorative to the general
health. The tone of the stomach is soon improved, digestion becomes
easier and more rapid, pain and weight after food disappearing. The
bile flows more freely. The bowels become regular. Diarrhœa, if
previously present, ceases. The consequence of these changes is better
assimilation, and therefore flesh is often gained. With the
improvement in nutrition the colour returns to the cheeks and energy
to the mind.” --_Dr. P. James._
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF THE PRINCIPAL SPRINGS.
GG Grande Grille P Park
Ch Chomel H Hopital
Md Mesdammes Ce Celestins
L Lucas Hr Haute-rive
+------------------+------------------------------------------------+
| Acids and Bases | NAMES OF THE SPRINGS. |
| contained in +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| each litre. | GG | Ch | Md | L | P | H | Ce | Hr |
+------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
|Carbonic Acid |4.418|4.429|5.029 |5.348|5.071|4.719|4.705|5.640|
|Sulphuric „ | .164| .164| .141 | .164| .177| .164| .164| .164|
|Phosphoric „ | .070| .038|traces| .038| .076| .025| .050| .625|
|Arsenic „ | .001| .001| .002 | .001| .001| .001| .001| .001|
|Hydrochloric Acid | .332| .334| .222 | .324| .344| .324| .234| .334|
|Silica | .070| .070| .032 | .050| .055| .050| .060| .071|
|Protoxide of Iron | .002| .002| .012 | .002| .002| .002| .002| .008|
|Lime | .169| .169| .235 | .212| .239| .222| .180| .168|
|Strontia | .002| .002| .002 | .008| .003| .003| .003| .002|
|Magnesia | .097| .108| .134 | .088| .068| .064| .105| .160|
|Potash | .182| .192| .098 | .146| .151| .228| .163| .098|
|Soda |2.488|2.536|1.957 |2.501|2.500|2.500|2.560|2.368|
+------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| TOTALS |7.997|8.043|7.866 |8.877|8.687|8.302|8.327|9.039|
| | | | | | | | | |
| Saline | | | | | | | | |
| ingredients | | | | | | | | |
| in each litre. | | | | | | | | |
+------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
|Free Carbonic Acid| .908| .768|1.908 |1.751|1.555|1.067|1.049|2.183|
|Bicarb. of Soda |4.883|5.091| 4.016|5.004|4.857|5.029|5.103|4.687|
| „ Potash | .352| .371| .185 | .282| .292| .440| .315| .189|
| „ Magnesia | .303| .338| .429 | .275| .213| .200| .328| .501|
| „ Strontia | .303| .003| .003 | .005| .005| .005| .005| .003|
| „ Lime | .434| .427| .604 | .545| .614| .570| .462| .432|
| „ Protox. of Iron| .004| .004| .026 | .004| .004| .004| .004| .017|
|Sulphate of Soda | .291| .291| .250 | .291| .314| .291| .291| .291|
|Phosphate | .130| .070|traces| .070| .140| .046| .091| .046|
|Arseniate | .002| .002| .003 | .002| .002| .002| .002| .002|
|Chloride of Sodium| .534| .534| .355 | .518| .550| .518| .534| .534|
|Silica | .070| .070| .032 | .050| .055| .050| .060| .071|
| +-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| TOTALS |7.914|7.959|7.811 |8.797|8.601|8.222|8.244|8.956|
+------------------+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
The Larbaud spring, which is not given in this analysis, differs only
slightly from the Célestins.
In a garden of a house in the Boulevard Victoria is a petrifying
spring, containing a large quantity of the carbonate of lime.
+Excursions.+
CAB FARES.--The course within the town from 6 A.M. to 12 P.M. with 1
horse, 1½ fr.; 2 horses, 2½ frs. By time, carriage and 1 horse, first
hour, 3 frs., and 2 frs. each successive hour. Half the day, 9 frs.;
the day, 18 frs. Carriage with 2 horses, first hour, 4 frs., the
following hours, 3 frs. each. The half-day, 12 frs. 50 c.; the day, 25
frs.
Art. 17--The price for the first hour, in or outside Vichy, is always
fully charged although the coachman has not been employed the entire
hour. All the other hours are divided and paid by quarters.
Art. 18.--The day is fixed at 12 hrs., which comprises 2 hrs. for
rest; the half-day at 6 hrs., and 1 hr. for rest.
[Headnote: DRIVES. CUSSET.]
For drives with a fixed destination the price should be settled
beforehand. The following are the usual prices. To the Casino des
Justices (about 2 m. beyond Gusset), there and back, 1 horse, 7 frs.;
2 horses, 10 frs. The same prices are charged, there and back, from
Vichy to Charmeil, Côte St. Amand, Hauterive, Les Malavaux, and
Montagne-Verte. To the Ardoisière, there and back, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2
horses, 12 frs. To Chateldon and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 horses, 20
frs. To Busset and back by the Ardoisière, 1 horse, 16 frs.; 2 horses,
20 frs. To Maulmont and back, 1 horse, 15 frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs. To
Randan by Bois-Randenez, return by Maulmont, 1 horse, 18 frs.; 2
horses, 24 frs.
+Cusset+, pop. 6200, on the Sichon, 2 m. E. from Vichy. _Inn:_ H. du
Centre, in the Place de la Halle, near the church. Omnibus, 20 c. At
the entrance into the town is the +Etablissement Thermal Ste. Marie+,
a neat building of red and black brick, with a large entrance flanked
with turrets. Opposite are the “Sources Ste. Marie” and Elizabeth,
both cold. The baths cost 1½ fr. From 9 in the morning till 2 in the
afternoon only 1 fr. is charged. The waters are of the same class as
those of Vichy, but have a little more soda and iron.
From Cusset a pleasant road leads to Les Malavaux, 2½ m. S.E. Take the
road to Les Guitons the length of the bridge, which do not cross, but
walk up by the course of the stream Joland. The hill to the right is
called the “Côte des Justices,” because on it criminals suffered the
extreme penalty of the law. Shortly afterwards the valley narrows into
a miniature gorge between basaltic rocks, and situated in the
prettiest part, 1¼ m. from the bridge, is an inn with refreshment
rooms. Pension per day, 10 frs. Beyond the inn the valley gradually
widens and flattens. From the inn are visited the Puits du Diable; and
on the Malavaux the Fontaine des Sarrasins and the scanty ruins of a
castle said to have been built by the Knight Templars; admission,
1 fr. each.
[Headnote: MONTAGNE-VERTE.]
2½ m. N. from Vichy by the Rue de Ballore is the Montagne-Verte, 1288
ft. above the sea, with a restaurant on the top, whence there is a
good view of the surrounding country. This road makes the nicest walk
in the neighbourhood of Vichy. At about a mile it passes by the
cemetery.
+Vichy to Busset+ by Cusset and the Ardoisière, 10 m. S. Return by St.
Yorre, where the rail may be taken.
[Headnote: GRIVATS.]
The road passes by Cusset and then extends southwards by the side of
the Sichon. The first village passed on the Sichon is Grivats, famous
for the manufacture of the Toiles de Vichy, called also Grivats,
a variegated cotton stuff used for gowns and petticoats. The best
quality, made only at Grivats, costs 1½ fr. the mètre (1⅛ yard); the
inferior qualities, made chiefly at Roanne, cost from 75 c. to 1 fr.
the mètre. At Grivats they are all made by handlooms in the houses of
the weavers. Among the best shops in Vichy for this article is that of
Delorme-Desfougères, Rue de l’Hôpital.
From Grivats the road, after passing through a fertile country,
reaches the Ardoisière, situated at the foot of Mont Peyroux, 7½ m. S.
from Vichy. Inn with refreshment rooms. Here there is an abandoned
slate quarry, charge to visit 1 fr., but it is not worth entering. The
favourite excursions here are to the falls of the Sichon or the
Cascade du Gourre-Saillant, fee 1 fr., which, unless after heavy
rains, are very small; and to the ruins of the Château des Templiers
on the top of Mont Peyroux, whence there is a beautiful and extensive
view.
[Headnote: BUSSET.]
The road now leaves the banks of the Sichon and extends due S. towards
Busset, 2½ m. from the Ardoisière, or 10 m. from Vichy by this road.
Busset is a poor village at the foot of a hill, on which is the
Château Bourbon-Busset, built in 1319, but restored since. Admission
readily granted. Splendid view from the Tour de Riom. W. from Busset,
on the E. side of the Allier, is St. Yorre (see below), where the rail
may be taken to Vichy, 5 m. N.
Nearly 8 m. S.E. from the Ardoisière by the valley of the Suhan and
the village of Arronnes is Ferrières, with, in the neighbourhood, the
ruins of the old feudal castle of Mont Gilbert, the Roc St. Vincent,
the Pierre-Encise, the Grotte des Fées, and the Puy-Montoncel. Time
required from Vichy and back, 8 hrs.
[Headnote: RANDAN. VESSE-INTERMITTENT-SPRING.]
+Vichy to Randan.+--Coach daily from the Place de la Marine at 11.20
A.M.; arrives at Randan at 1 P.M.; leaves Randan at 3.20, and is back
to Vichy by 5. Fare there and back, 2½ frs. The castle of Randan is
open on Thursdays and feast-days. The return journey, 4 m., by
Maulmont costs 3½ frs.
The coach, having crossed the bridge of the Allier, passes on the left
hand a small house with the sign SOURCE INTERMITTENTE. In the garden
is the very interesting intermittent spring of Vesse, which acts every
6 or 7½ hours, when it rises from a depth of 375 ft. to the height of
16 ft. above the surface. During the irruption, which lasts 30
minutes, the water has a milky hue, from the quantity of air it
contains. Admission, 25 c.
From this spring the road follows at a little distance the course of
the stream Sermon, passing the villages of Les Séchauds and the Bois
Randenez, and then enters the forest of Boucharde, at the southern
extremity of which is situated Randan, with its large modern mansion
belonging to the Orleans family. It contains a picture gallery with
several drawings by the gifted Marie d’Orleans, the rooms of Madame
Adelaide and of her brother Louis Philippe, a beautiful little chapel,
and a large kitchen (see p. 368). From Randan the road leads due E.
through the woods to the hunting-seat of Maulmont, constructed by
Madame Adelaide in the Gothic style, on the site of an old commandery
of the Knight Templars. From this the Allier is crossed by the
suspension bridge of Ris, whence the return journey may be made by
rail or by the high road along the E. side of the river.
[Headnote: ST. YORRE. RIS.]
+Vichy to Thiers+ by rail, 22 m. S., changing at Courty. 5 m. S. from
Vichy are the village of St. Yorre and the Larbaud mineral water
establishment, with an intermittent spring in the grounds. The water,
which is bottled here, rises from a depth of 340 ft.
The next station S. from St. Yorre is the station Ris-Chateldon, 5 m.
from St. Yorre and 10 from Vichy. About 200 yards N. from the station
the road that crosses the rail leads directly to the suspension
bridge, or the Pont de Ris, over the Allier, about 1 m. W. The broad
road opposite the station leads to Ris (pronounce the s) about 1 m. E.
It is a large village, with dunghills, geese, and ducks in the
principal street. The church, 12th and 13th cents., has narrow aisles
and nave and semicircular apse.
[Headnote: CHATELDON. THIERS.]
For +Chateldon+, 3¼ m. S.E. from station, take the road that follows
the rail southward to second road left. This village, more interesting
than Ris, is situated in the little valley of the stream Vauziron,
surrounded by hills covered with vineyards. In the “Place” is the
principal inn, the H. Camin, pension 6 to 7 frs., whence the coach
starts for the station, but not for every train. The house with the
mineral water springs is up at the other end of the village, by the
side of the Vauziron.
+Maringues+ is 11½ m. W. from the station by the Pont de Ris. Puy de
Guillaume, 3¼ m. S. from the station.
23½ m. S. from Vichy by rail is the picturesquely-situated town of
+Thiers+, pop. 16,230. _Inns:_ *Paris; Aigle d’Or; Univers; all near
each other, and on almost the same level as the station. Also
approached by rail from Clermont, passing through a mountainous
country.
Thiers, with its old houses, and steep, tortuous, dirty streets, is
built on the side of Mt. Besset, which rises to the height of 1716 ft.
above the sea, but only 405 ft. above the old prison near the “Place.”
At the foot of this mountain flows the impetuous Durolle, which turns
the wheels of the paper-mills and forges in the low town. From the
different terraces are splendid views of the curiously-shaped
surrounding mountains and of the plains of the Limagne. The
manufacture of cutlery (coutellerie) is the standard occupation of the
inhabitants. The steel is made in the forges; all the rest is done in
the houses of the workmen, each individual of the family taking the
part in the manufacture corresponding to his or her ability. At the
foot of Mt. Besset, near the Durolle, is the church of St. Moutiers,
of the 11th cent., excepting the square apse, which is of the 7th.
From the chancel a very pretty road leads up the valley of the Durolle
to the Margeride. The church in the high part of the town to the left
is St. Jean, 14th cent., with a cemetery. Considerably higher than St.
Jean is St. Genest, built in about 1020. It has been recently
restored. Over the second altar, left or north of the high altar, is a
fresco, 16th cent., representing Mary among angels entering heaven.
The painted glass is modern. 3 m. S.E. from Thiers is the village of
Escoutoux, where a pleasant sparkling wine is made called Champagne de
la Dore. Excellent butter and cheese are made at Thiers. The richest
are flat and thin, but the most pungent is a cheese not unlike the
Stilton in shape and colour. The best of the thin moist cheeses are
those of Mont d’Or, near Lyons, not the Mt. Dore of Clermont. From
Thiers the country becomes most picturesque all the way to St.
Etienne, the line winding its way around the steep sides of lofty
mountains with roaring torrents in the deep ravines below. After
leaving Thiers it follows the course of the Durolle to its source.
3¼ m. from Thiers by rail is the station for St. Remy, pop. 5000 (see
below).
Vichy to the Château d’Effiat, 18 m. S.W. by the villages of Vesse (or
Vaisse) and Serbannes, and the forest of Montpensier.
[Headnote: GANNAT. AIGUEPERSE.]
The Château d’Effiat (15th cent.) belonged in the 16th cent. to
Antoine Coiffier Ruse, a marshal of France, whose eldest son was the
unfortunate Cinq-Mars. It was afterwards purchased by the famous
Scotch financier Law of Lauriston, who had to give it up to his
creditors. The castle was dismantled by order of the State, but is now
partially restored. 3¾ m. W., on the line between Gannat and Clermont,
is +Aigueperse+, pop. 2600. _Inn:_ St. Louis. A coach runs between
Aigueperse and Randan, 8 m. E. (see below). Between Vichy and the
railway station of St. Remy is the modernised Château of Charmeil on
the Allier, 3¾ m. N. from Vichy. It forms a pleasant afternoon
drive.
2 m. N. from St. Germain-des-Fosses railway station are the ruins of
the Château de Billy (14th cent.), formerly one of the strongest and
most imposing in the Bourbonnais. In the village are some old
houses.
17 m. N.E. by rail from Vichy, on the, Lyons line, is La Palisse on
the Bèbre, pop. 2830; _Inn:_ H. de l’Écu; with a castle (14th cent.)
on an eminence overlooking the town (see p. 346).
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{224}{ }
+SAINT-REMI-EN-ROLLAT+, 867 ft. above the sea.
{235½}{294½}
+GANNAT+, pop. 6000. _Inns:_ Nord; Poste. A town of crooked streets, on
the Andelot, at the confines of the plain of La Limagne. The church of
St. Croix (choir 11th cent., nave reconstructed in the 14th cent.), is a
good specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. Some of the windows are
by J. du Paroy. In the “Place” are two houses, one belonging to the
Dukes of Bourbon, the other to the Fontanges family, both 15th cent.
Gannat is famous for beer. Junction at Gannat with the railway system of
the Chemins de Fer d’Orleans, leading to Orleans and Tours, and the
Feudal Castles on the Loire. See Black’s _Normandy, Brittany, and
Touraine_.
{242}{288}
+AIGUEPERSE+, pop. 2600. _Hotels:_ St. Louis; Lion d’Or. The finest
building is the Sainte Chapelle, built in 1475. The Hôtel de Ville is in
a convent of the Ursulines, built in 1650. A coach from this station
goes to Randan in the Limagne, 8 m. E., pop. 2000, with a beautiful
castle of bright and dark coloured bricks, reconstructed in 1822 by Mme.
Ad. d’Orleans. 2½ m. distant, on the border of the forest of Randan, is
another castle constructed by Mme. in the style of the Middle Ages. See
under excursions from Vichy.
[Headnote: RIOM.]
{253}{277}
+RIOM+, 1105 ft. above the sea, pop. 11,000. _Inns:_ H. Paris; Poste;
Puy-de-Dome. Diligences to Volvic, 3¼ m. S.W.; to Châtelguyon, 5 m. N.;
and to Châteauneuf, 20 m. N.W. The most interesting church in Riom is
St. Amable, 12th cent., with a large nave supported on 14 piers, each
pier having three engaged columns. On the tower and south transept is
the same kind of rude mosaic which ornaments the church of Issoire. Near
St. Amable is the Tour de l’Horloge, 16th cent., and close to it a few
15th and 16th cent. houses. Down this same street, the Rue de l’Horloge,
is the church of Notre Dame, 15th cent. Attached to the west end of the
Palais de Justice is the Ste. Chapelle, 14th cent., consisting of a
choir, with a pinnacle at each corner of the west end. In the building
called the “Hôtel Chabrol” is the museum and picture gallery.
20 m. N.W. from Riom, by diligence starting at 6 A.M., are the mineral
baths of +Châteauneuf+, pop. 1000. _Hotels:_ Viple; Denys; Mossier.
Water saline. Temperature of the fourteen springs from 60° to 102°
Fahr. Recommended for obstruction of the liver, neuralgia, nervous
affections of the heart, cutaneous diseases, glandular swellings.
Bath, 1 fr.
5 m. N. from Riom by omnibus are the hot mineral springs of
Châtelguyon, most picturesquely situated among mountains. _Hotels:_
Bains; Thermes; Barthélemy; Marret; Lacroix. Bathing establishment
with every accessory. Recommended for dyspepsia, constipation of the
bowels, gall-stones, chronic bronchitis, syphilis. Water saline. Temp.
100° Fahr.
3½ m. S.W. from Riom by diligence is Volvic, pop. 4000, built on lava.
Visit the church, the Musée in the Mairie, and the workshops where the
lava brought from the quarries of the Puy de la Nugère is hewn (see
p. 377).
[Headnote: CLERMONT-FERRAND.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{260½}{269½}
+CLERMONT-FERRAND+, 1335 ft. above the sea, pop. 43,000, on an eminence
crowned by the cathedral, of which the principal façade, the west
entrance, is towards the Place de Jaude, while the chancel or eastern
end is towards the railway station. _Hotels:_ in the Place de Jaude are
the *Univers; *Poste, for commercials; Europe. Just off the Place de
Jaude are the Paix; France. All the above are large houses. Near the
Académie and the Botanic Gardens, the H. des Facultés, a small but good
house. Among the hotels in front of the station the best is the H. des
Voyageurs. Coaches from the Place de Jaude for Saint Mart, Royat, St.
Amand, and Champeix. During summer, coach to nearly the top of the
Puy-de-Dome (see page 372). In the “Place” are a large cabstand and
offices where carriages may be hired for excursions.
[Headnote: POST OFFICE. CATHEDRAL.]
The general post office is in the Place St. Herem, down from the N. side
of the cathedral, just under the Promenade de la Poterne, whence there
is a charming view of the Puy-de-Dome mountains. In the Place St. Herem
is a bronze statue of Blaise Pascal, 1623-1662, in a sitting posture.
A little beyond the foot of the stairs to the right of the statue is the
Temple Protestant, service 1 P.M. The first narrow street beyond the
post office leads down to the Fontaine Petrifiante.
Large quantities of fruit are preserved in Clermont, both in the moist
and crystalline (glacé) state.
The most prominent edifice in Clermont is the Cathedral, founded in the
9th and rebuilt in the 14th cent. The material is basalt and Volvic
lava, which admits of a very sharp edge. The narrow round belfry on the
N. side is 165 ft. high. Round the nave and choir are twenty-eight, or,
including those of the transepts, thirty-six fascicled piers, which rise
nearly to the roof. Between are pointed arches, and immediately above,
the triforium, having over each arch a treble window resting on four
fascicled and three impost colonnettes. As the choir contracts towards
the apsidal termination the piers become less massive and the arches ⅓
narrower. The stained glass of the clerestory windows of the nave dates
from the 15th cent.; but only a few are complete, having been injured by
a hailstorm in 1835. The best glass is in the apse and in the N.
transept, dating from the 13th cent. The glass in the rose of the S.
transept, which is also beautiful, is modern. The clock, with its three
men to strike the hours and quarters, dates from the 16th cent. Ten
chapels radiate from the choir. In the first on the N. side is a
miracle-working image of Mary and Child.
The house in which Blaise Pascal was born in 1623 is No. 2 Passage
Vernines, a small kind of court near the right or S. angle of the
principal entrance into the cathedral. It is more easily found by going
to the front, No. 2 Place de la Cathedral, on the third story of which
is a bust of Pascal. This part of the building is modern. Through the
shop in a little room up a few steps is the exact spot where he was
born.
[Headnote: NOTRE DAME DU PORT.]
The Rue des Notaires leads down from the cathedral to the Place de la
Poterne, where there is a good view of the surrounding mountains. The
large block of buildings passed on the right includes the Palais de
Justice, the Hôtel de Ville, and the prison. The second street beyond
these buildings, the Rue du Port, leads down to Notre Dame du Port,
built in 578, destroyed by the Normans in 853 and restored in 866,
according to the inscriptions on the tablet in the N. transept. The
exterior is decorated with blind arches, mouldings, and dental friezes,
while the apse and its radiating chapels have besides patterns in
mosaic. From the intersection of the transept rises an octagonal tower.
In the interior the roof is waggon-vaulted with no groining. Round the
nave are fourteen piers with attached columns, having on their capitals
sculptured figures of men, animals, and plants. The chancel is
surrounded by columns of the same kind, on which rest arches more or
less stilted according to the width of the space. The triforium is
massive and on short columns. All the glass is modern, excepting in the
window behind the high altar and in each of the windows in the S. and N.
ends of the chancel, which date from the beginning of the 13th cent.
Below the chancel is the crypt, supported on twelve massive columns.
Over the altar is a miracle-working image, about 6 inches high, of Mary
and child Jesus, found at the bottom of the well, 18 ft. deep, in 578,
when the foundations of the first church were being laid. The well,
which is covered, is in front of the altar. Its water is endowed with
miraculous properties. The walls are lined with expressions of gratitude
for favours obtained by praying to this tiny representative of the woman
Mary.
It was within the walls of the upper church, when Pope Urban II. and
Peter the Hermit were exhorting their hearers in 1096 to undertake the
first crusade, that the whole assembly, as if impelled by an immediate
inspiration, exclaimed with one voice, “It is the will of God!” which
words became the signal of battle in all the future exploits of the
Crusaders.
The open space behind the statue of General Desaix leads to the wide Rue
Lagarlaye and to the Boulevard du Taureau, in which is situated the
Académie or College of Clermont, containing, besides the class-rooms,
the picture gallery, the museum of natural history, and the Public
Library founded by Massillon when bishop of this diocese.
[Headnote: BOTANIC GARDENS.]
Behind the Academy are the Botanic Gardens, in which a considerable part
is wisely devoted to the training, grafting, and pruning of fruit trees
and vines. Attached is the École de Pisciculture, with tanks and a small
aquarium. Near the Academy is the Hôtel Dieu. Tolerable wine is made at
Puy-de-Dome, but it is generally cold and flat, and does not sit easily
on the stomach.
[Headnote: ROMAGNAT.]
3¾ m. S. from Clermont is Romagnat, pop. 2000, at the foot of M. Rognon,
1875 ft., and 1½ m. more is Mt. Gergovia, 2240 ft., the site of the
principal city of the Averni, which was successfully defended by
Vercingetorix against a powerful army commanded by Cæsar, whom he
compelled to retreat with great loss. The Roman headquarters are
supposed to have been on a lower hill called Le Crest. (See also under
Les Laumes, p. 19.)
Coach to the Puy-de-Dome from Clermont. The road from Royat up to the
Puy-de-Dome passes by Fontanat and the poor village of Font-de-l’Arbre;
or, if preferred, the road to Fontgieve may be taken as far as the
+Baraque+, and ascend by the S. side, which is easier.
The +Puy-de-Dome+ is 4806 ft. above the level of the sea, has no crater,
and is covered with a long tufted grass, with here and there a rough
spongy rock cropping out, of volcanic origin, and called trachyte, of
which the variety found here, and almost here alone, has been named
domite. It is grayish-white, fine grained, compact, earthy, often
friable, and with flakes of brown mica. It appears to be a decomposed
trachyte, in which the feldspar has been affected, but not the mica. The
most perfect craters here are the Puy-de-Pariou, 3970 ft. high, and the
Nid de la Poule. On the top of the Puy-de-Dome is an observatory,
connected with the keeper’s house by an underground way. On the Puy are
also the ruins of the chapel of St. Bernabé, 2d or 3d cent., and of a
Gallo-Roman temple to Mercury.
For Clermont-Ferrand to Brive by Royat, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule, see
p. 376. Junction at Clermont with rail to Lyons, 121 m. E. by Courty
(where change for Thiers), Montbrison, St. Etienne, and Givors-Canal
(see p. 349).
From Clermont-Ferrand the railway to Nîmes ascends the course of the
Allier to La Bastide, 116 m. S. Some parts of the valley are very
picturesque. The train after Clermont passes, 267 m., Le Cendre, 1145
ft.; 270¼ m., Les Martres-de-Veyre, 1148 ft.; 272 m., Vie-le-Comte, 1164
ft.; 276½ m., Coudes. The station is near the Allier, 1173 ft., but the
town is on the top of an adjoining hill, with the tower of Montpeyroux,
13th cent.
[Headnote: ISSOIRE.]
{282½}{247½}
+ISSOIRE+, pop. 6400, and 1200 ft. above the sea-level. _Hotels:_ Poste;
Pezissat; opposite each other in the principal street. It is a clean
little town. The principal church, founded in the 10th cent., is a
highly interesting specimen of the architecture of Auvergne. The
exterior is plain, but the plan admirable. The transepts are just
sufficiently developed to give expression to the edifice; while the
elegant projection of the five apsidal chapels illustrates one of the
characteristic beauties of the style. A mosaic decoration of
differently-coloured lavas under a handsome cornice runs round the
chancel, resembling what is seen on the south transept and tower of St.
Amable at Riom. The interior is beautiful and harmonious, but the gaudy
painting on the walls of an edifice of such a severe style surprises the
eye on entering. The crypt (10th cent.), below the chancel, but not
below the ground, consists of many short massive columns, bearing a
complex series of arches around a central arch, under which is the
altar.
[Headnote: LE BREUIL.]
{287¾}{242¼}
+LE BREUIL+, 1287 ft., pop. 1000. Opposite station, _Inn:_ H. Beranger.
Coaches await passengers for St. Germain-Lembron, an agricultural town,
2 m. W., and Ardes. The road to Ardes from St. Germain ascends through a
hilly and well-cultivated country, passing, at 4¼ m. from St. Germain,
a bathing establishment, possessing a copious spring containing the
carbonate of iron and a large quantity of free carbonic acid gas.
2½ m. farther is +Ardes+; _Inns:_ Paillardin; Barreyre; on an eminence
rising from the Couze. In the low part of the village is the church,
11th cent., but restored and repaired. In the cemetery is a stone
cross (1519) with Mary and Child against it, resting on a
demure-looking figure holding an open book. The valley of the Couze,
between high wooded mountains and great basaltic cliffs, offers an
excellent field for geological and botanical rambles, while the river
itself, which runs in a narrow bed at the foot of the mountains,
through little meadows by the side of the road, contains excellent
trout. High up are firs and forest trees, but below are apricot,
apple, pear, quince, cherry, and walnut trees interspersed among small
vineyards and meadows. The best display of the basaltic formation is
between the first bridge and the village of Rentière, perched on a
basalt cliff rising from the road. A little way beyond, on the right
or opposite bank of the river, is an isolated cliff resembling a
statue of Mary with the back towards the spectator. About 4½ m. up the
valley are the ruins of a mill, La Gravière, destroyed by lightning in
1881. This is considered the commencement of the widest and most
imposing part of the valley, which extends to the Cantal. About 5 m.
up, on the top of a hill on the right bank, is the chapel of St.
Pesade.
2½ m. S. from Le Breuil is Le Saut du Loup, a village with mineral
waters, picturesquely situated on the Allier, 1277 ft. above the sea.
Between Brassal, _Inn:_ Chevalier, 3¾ m. farther S., 1322 ft. above
the sea, and Arvant are valuable coal-fields and a bed of kaolin
clay.
[Headnote: ARVANT.]
miles from PARIS
miles to MARSEILLES
{298}{232}
+ARVANT+, 1400 ft., a dirty hamlet on the Vergonghéon, an affluent of
the Allier. The best of the inns is the H. Voyageurs. Junction here with
the line to Capdenac, 110 m. S.W., traversing the whole of the
interesting geological region of the Cantal. (See Black’s _South
France_, West Half.)
From the hamlet of Neussargues, 30½ m. S.W. from Arvant, commences the
loop-line of the Chemins de Fer du Midi, which traverses the lofty
woodless highlands of Lozère, the coal-region of Aveyron, and the wine
and olive department of Herault to Beziers on the Mediterranean line,
between Cette and Narbonne. On this line, 11¾ m. S. from Neussargues,
7 m. S. from St. Flour, and 37½ m. N. from Marvejols, is the highest
bridge in the world, the Pont de Garabit, which crosses the ravine of
the Truyère 400 ft. above the river. The span of the great arch is 541½
ft., and the length of the viaduct 1851 ft.
[Headnote: BRIOUDE.]
{304}{226}
+BRIOUDE+, 1430 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000. _Inns:_ *Nord; Commerce.
A dirty town on a tableland, 1¼ m. from the Allier. The parish church
St. Julien (restored) dates from the 11th and 12th cents. The W. façade,
of red sandstone, is flat, with round-headed windows over the three
portals. The largest, the centre one, is between two thick plain
buttresses, over which rises a low square tower. On the S. side of the
church is another portal, preceded by a massive portico on three large
semicircular arches, resting on short square piers with attached columns
bearing large foliaged capitals. On the N. side is a similar entrance,
but plainer. From the choir rises a square tower, becoming octagonal in
the two upper stages. From the apse, which is semicircular, radiate at a
lower level five semicircular chapels, their roofs terminating in a
cornice of tiny stone interlaced arches. The wall of the apse above the
chapels is ornamented with a mosaic, chiefly stars, in black and white
stones.
The interior of the church is surrounded by great, tall, square piers
with attached columns and vaulting shafts bearing grotesque foliaged
capitals. Over the arches, which are early pointed, run a built-up
triforium and circular clerestory windows. The five chapels have a
profusion of colonnettes, three round-headed windows each, and some
beautiful sculpture in relief. Under the chancel is a crypt.
Behind the church is the covered market, and a little farther the Hôtel
de Ville, with the town promenade on a terrace overlooking the plain.
[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D’AURAC.]
{318½}{211½}
+ST. GEORGES-D’AURAC+, 1872 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Lombardin, near
the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E., and for St. Etienne
54½ m. farther. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.)
[Headnote: LANGEAC.]
{323}{207}
+LANGEAC+, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See p. 91, and map
p. 46.) Between Langeac and Langogne the train passes through a most
picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst vast masses of basalt,
either continuous or isolated, either rugged or grooved with pentagonal
columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark ravines, between vertical
cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance while being hurried past
in the train. 3¾ m. S. from Langeac is Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000,
on an eminence above the station. The fortified tower, the remains of
the old abbey, is well seen from the rail. Just before arriving at the
next station, Chazes, 8½ m. S. from Langeac, is an interesting church,
11th cent., against a rock. Then follow the stations of
Monistrol-d’Allier, 2000 ft. (p. 91); Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure,
2238 ft.
[Headnote: LANGOGNE.]
{364½}{165½}
+LANGOGNE+, 2940 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc;
Chambon. Pleasantly situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt
here. (See pp. 88 and 94, and map p. 46.) 7½ m. farther S. is Luc
station, 2900 ft.; and 4½ m. farther S., La Bastide, 3070 ft., the
culminating point of the line. A few miles to the W. of the station is
the source of the Allier. At Prevenchères, 6 m. S., the station is only
2580 ft. above the sea. The line now passes by immense rocks and cliffs
of granite.
{390}{140}
+VILLEFORT+, 1820 ft., pop. 2000. A poor village on the Devèze, in a
deep valley at the foot of Mt. Lozère. Diligences at this station for
Mende, passing through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23½ m. W.
+Bagnols les Bains+, pop. 500. _Inns:_ Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi.
A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the
Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an
unctuous and clear water, temperature 100° Fahr., efficacious in
rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the
neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fishing in the Lot, and
plenty of game on the mountains.
From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous country
by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At +La Grande Combe+, with the two
stations of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc
mines commence which extend to Alais.
[Headnote: ALAIS.]
{419}{111}
+ALAIS+, pop. 22,000, on the Gardon. _Hotels:_ Commerce; *Luxembourg;
Champagne. Situated, like Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and
Tamaris, among coal-fields, iron-works, and manufactories. This is the
best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of Lozère,
traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other. Some very
capital wine is made at Alais.
Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N.E. to Teil (see
p. 96, and map p. 56); also to Laudun, 35½ m. E. (see p. 99, and map
p. 56).
{450}{80}
+NÎMES+ (see p. 101, and map p. 66).
{467}{63}
+TARASCON+ (see p. 66, and map p. 66).
{470}{60}
+ARLES+ (see p. 68, and map p. 66).
{499½}{30½}
+ST. CHAMAS+ (see p. 76, and map p. 66).
{512½}{17½}
+ROGNAC+ (see p. 77, and map p. 66).
{518}{12}
+PAS-DES-LANCIERS.+
{530}{ }
+MARSEILLES+ (see p. 111, and map p. 123).
[Headnote: ROYAT. ST. MART.]
miles from CLERMONT
miles to MARSEILLES
+Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard+,
122 m. W. by rail, passing Royat 3¾ m., Durtol 5 m., Volvic 12½ m.,
Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m., Pont-Gibaud 24 m., La
Miouze-Rochefort 28½ m., Bourgheade-Herment 35½ m., Laqueuille 40½ m.,
Meymac 73 m., and Tulle 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont and 16¼ m. N.E. from
Brive.
From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends the
highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first
station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart,
adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to
Royat are H. Chabassière; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons. Higher
up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church, founded
in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was heightened and
fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept is a low
tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second. Under the
small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a crypt
supported on six colonnettes.
In the “Place” is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of
J. C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on consoles. The
narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads down to the
Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth sundry springs
of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are allowed to
flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others are led to
Clermont, where they supply the fountains. The road, after crossing the
Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart. In the lower part of the
valley, in a small park on the right side of the Tirtaine, is the
bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of which the most
important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the establishment;
temperature, 100° Fahr. The principal ingredients are the chlorate of
sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, and a
little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The charge is from 1½
fr. to 2½ frs. according to the season.
Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the establishment
the H. St. Mart; the H. Splendide; Bains; Bristol, all large first-class
houses. On the road up the left bank of the Tirtaine are the Louvre;
Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre; Sources. St. Mart is 1¼ m.
from Clermont by omnibus, passing through Chamalières. A great variety
of excursions in the neighbourhood.
miles from CLERMONT
miles to MARSEILLES
{5}{117}
+DURTOL+, situated among high wooded mountains.
[Headnote: VOLVIC. PONT-GIBAUD.]
{12½}{109½}
+VOLVIC.+ In the neighbourhood of the station are large quarries of
lava, the produce of the extinct crater Puy de la Nugère, 3261 ft.
Through the gap in the hill in front of the station is an excellent view
of Riom, 3½ m. E. from Volvic by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on
an eminence at the foot of Le Puy de la Bannière. The parish church
dates from the 13th cent. Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are
the principal industries (see p. 369).
The train still ascending passes Vauriat 17½ m., St. Ours-les-Roches
20 m., and then arrives at the station for Pont-Gibaud, pop. 1300, 24 m.
distant. _Inns:_ H. Johannel; H. Beraud. Their omnibuses await
passengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are situated on the
Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava from the crater
of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses of the important
argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood.
[Headnote: LAQUEUILLE.]
{40½}{81½}
+LAQUEUILLE+, 3624 ft. above the sea. Change here for
Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10½ m. S.E., and for Bourboule 8 m. S.W. The
beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore passes through at about halfway
the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above the sea. Immediately below Le
Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule passes through the village of
St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea.
+MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS+
is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the
Dordogne, 3402 ft. above the sea. _Hotels._--Considering the style of
their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in
the first-class houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes
coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The
difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around
the “Place” of the bathing establishment are the first-class houses,
Chabaury ainé; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du Parc
and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is
rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be
considered second-class houses, but if no agreement is made they are
apt to charge as much as those of the first class: H. Bardet-Chanonat;
H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H. Ramade; H.
Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a
handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and
the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the
Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the principal square; the
other two are occupied by the first-class hotels.
The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well
adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to
treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just
within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la
Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113° Fahr. Besides containing the
usual quantity of the arseniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in
two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the
bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond,
temperature 107°, containing the greatest quantity of iron. It rises
in an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the
Source César, temperature 113°, used chiefly for baths. Towards the
left-hand end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55°, used
at table mixed with the wine.
Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some
little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow
in and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others
are of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act
upon the more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate
arrangements for foot-bathing and for douching the nose.
The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the
month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during
July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs
then 2 frs., at other times 1½ fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c.
Baths from 92° to 100° should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from
109° to 112°, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water
in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the
sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by
tickets bought at the office of the baths.
[Map: Environs of Mont Dore and La Bourboule.]
[Headnote: ANALYSIS OF THE WATER.]
CONTENTS OF THE SPRINGS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE.
MdS Madeleine Spring. CsS Caesar Spring.
PvS Pavillon Spring. RaS Ramond Spring.
RiS Rigny Spring. BPC Bourboule, Perrière and
Choussy Springs.
+------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
| | MdS | PvS | RiS | CsS | RaS | BPCS |
+------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
|Free carbonic |0.3552 |0.3810 |0.3644 |0.5967 |0.4997 |0.0518 |
| acid gas | | | | | | |
|Bicarbonate |0.5362 |0.5452 |0.5375 |0.5361 |0.5362 |2.8920 |
| of soda | | | | | | |
| „ of potash |0.0309 |0.0309 |0.0232 |0.0212 |0.0212 | .... |
| „ of lime |0.3423 |0.3142 |0.3092 |0.3209 |0.2720 |0.1905 |
| „ of magnesia |0.1757 |0.1676 |0.1628 |0.1676 |0.1647 | .... |
| „ of protoxide |0.0207 |0.0235 |0.025 |0.0258 |0.0317 |0.0021 |
| of iron | | | | | | |
|Chloride of Sodium|0.3685 |0.3630 |0.3599 |0.3587 |0.3578 |2.8406 |
|Sulphate of soda |0.0761 |0.0761 |0.0761 |0.0756 |0.0737 |0.2084 |
|Arseniate of soda |0.00096|0.00096|0.00096|0.0009 |0.00095|0.02847|
|Silicic acid |0.1654 |0.1686 |0.1653 |0.1552 |0.1550 |0.1200 |
|Alumina |0.0112 |0.0094 |0.0101 |0.0083 |0.0065 |Traces.|
+------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+
Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of
potassium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both
waters is the arseniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29
times more abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore.
The temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140° F., or
27° above the hottest of Mont-Dore.
These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis,
asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders
marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated,
nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases. --Madden’s _Health
Resorts_. Three or four glasses of the Madeleine water are taken daily
by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appetite, and
is often attended with diarrhœa about the fifth or sixth day; this is
mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which frequently
lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a disgust of
the water is generally experienced, which is an indication that the
saturation point has been obtained. --Lee’s _Baths_.
As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm clothing
is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses costs per day 20
to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day.
[Headnote: EXCURSIONS. QUEUREUILH.]
_Excursions._--There are many pleasant and beautiful excursions around
Mont-Dore, among the volcanic hills clothed with sombre pine forests
and verdant meadows, rent at intervals by deep gullies with sullen
waters or roaring torrents in the dark depths below, chafing against
the jagged vertical cliffs of the ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the
craters which vomited forth these confused masses of rocks and knolls
over which in many places now rush and tumble superb waterfalls. The
Alpine Club have distributed over the district a liberal supply of
finger-posts, which indicate the distance as well as the way to the
different places.
One of the first excursions undertaken is to the +Cascade du
Queureuilh+, about 2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way
between the falls and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most
beautiful in this region, is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from
Lake Guéry (see below), 5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls.
The stream, after rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue,
tumbles over a hard basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls
of Queureuilh tourists often return by what is incorrectly called the
falls of the Rossignolet, a placid stream which enters the ravine of
Enfer about half a mile below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion
may be made in a carriage. On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs.
Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are
made to the Cascades de l’Angle 1¾ m., to the Saut-du-Loup 1¾ m., and
to the Pré du Barbier.
[Headnote: LAKE GUÉRY.]
The excursion to Lake Guéry, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to
Randanne, cut in the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a
turning of the road, just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a
charming panoramic view of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To
the W. are the towns of Le Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the
Capucin, 4807 ft., the Aiguilles d’Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy.
Lake Guéry, one of the shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1½ m. W.
from the main road, in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged
peaks. N. from the lake, at the entrance to a picturesque defile,
stand like sentries, on the left the Roche Tuillière, 4246 ft., one
side a vertical cliff, the other clothed with verdure; on the right
the Roche Sanadoire, with huge basaltic columns, resembling those of
the Giant’s Causeway.
[Headnote: ORCIVAL.]
4½ m. N. from Lake Guéry is the ancient village of +Orcival+, with an
inn and a church of the 9th and 10th cents., containing a miraculous
image found near it under the earth. 2½ m. W. from the Orcival road is
the Pierre-Branlante, a slightly movable overhanging rock. From
Orcival return by the Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S.
N.E. from Lake Guéry, or 9½ m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller,
5076 ft., is Lake Servières, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in
an extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient
camp.
9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some
menhirs.
The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12 m. E.
from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather
less by the highway passing Diane or Dyanne.
From Murols the road ascends 5¾ m. S. to Besse, whence it passes by
Lake Pavin to Vassivières, 5¼ m. W. from Besse. At Vassivières a
bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and Sancy (see
p. 381).
To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m., the
cascades of Vernière 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3¼ m. (p. 385); and the
top of the Puy Gros 3¾ m. (p. 385).
[Headnote: PICS DE SANCY AND FERRAND. LAKE PAVIN.]
The most important excursion is to the summit of the Pic de +Sancy+,
6188 ft. above the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore,
and 5 m. S. from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary.
Good bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From
the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Château-d’Eau on
the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and
shortly afterwards is passed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a
landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a
little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890
ft. To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer,
separated from each other by a dyke of dark porphyritic trachyte.
Shortly after, the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft.
above the sea. A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where
the Dogne, descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a
serpent. Opposite are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the
foot leads to an old alum mine.
The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course
of the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having
crossed the infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in
the marshy meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here--25 c. charged
for taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about
20 minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the
highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that
great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. in
circumference, which have broken their way through the early and solid
granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount
the Puy Ferrand, 6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N., by the Chemin
des Crètes.
3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Vassivières, a poor hamlet
on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing a
miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to
the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at
Vassivières, and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried
between the two places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on
the road indicate the resting stations. 2¼ m. E. from Vassivières, or
10¼ m. from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the Lac-de-Pavin, 3928
ft. above the sea, in the crater of an extinct volcano, but not full
to the brim. It is 2625 ft. long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep,
completely surrounded, excepting at the outlet, by vertical cliffs
from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are let for sailing and fishing on
this singular lake. At the S. end rises the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At
the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the Creux-de-Sancy, a circular
cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of which a stream of water is seen,
supposed to come from Lake Pavin.
3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is
Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. _Inns:_
Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the
neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It
contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates,
one having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre
of the town is the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it
is converted into shops and dwellings.
[Headnote: MUROLS.]
From Besse go 5¾ m. N. to Murols, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the
highway between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses
beautiful views of Limagne as it passes Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil,
St. Victor, and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (_Inn:_
Nierat, pop. 700) have been built of material taken from the castle,
many have escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone
of basalt, 3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a
formerly important castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence
of the lords of Murols et d’Estaing. From the top of the repaired
tower is a beautiful and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor,
Lake Pavin, the Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes,
the Dent-de-Marais, and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore,
passing on the left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625
ft. above the sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne.
A little farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the
lake, pop. 1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite
mountain.
The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back
is 11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Vassivières, Besse, and
Murols the entire distance is 32 m.
[Headnote: SALON DU CAPUCIN. VALLÉE D’ENFER.]
A very pleasant promenade is to the +Salon du Capucin+, recommended as
well as the Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the
pine forest. If on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having
reached the Jubilee cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the
road to the left which enters the forest, and after having ascended a
few minutes, a stone to the right will be seen bearing the
inscription: “Petit Chemin du Capucin,” which take. Shortly after it
divides, when take the left. At last the path enters a large open
space surrounded by beeches, where several roads meet. The road to the
left goes to the Vallée d’Enfer, to the right to the Rigolet, and the
road in front to the Salon, which is quite near. The path which
divides the Salon into two parts leads up to the top of the Rocher du
Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about 2 m. S. from Mont-Dore,
commanding a charming view. It owes its name to the detached pinnacle,
like a monk’s hood, called the Aiguille du Capucin, which is rather
difficult to ascend.
To go to the +Vallée d’Enfer+ return to the open glade and take the
Enfer path which leads to the valley by the Vallée Lacour, ¾ m. long,
near the top of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the
opening where those on foot climb over to the Vallée d’Enfer; those on
horseback have to pass round by Burens. The Vallée d’Enfer is an arid
narrow gorge between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical
dykes. From the valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or
return to Mont-Dore, 4¾ m. N.
[Headnote: HOTELS. BATHS. CHARGES.]
BOURBOULE.
8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of
the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606
ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to
the excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of
Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their
especial virtue--the arseniate of soda. The climate too is a little
milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is
at Mont-Dore.
_Hotels._--Around the principal establishment, called the
Etablissement des Thermes, are the ¹Grand Hotel; H. ¹Bellon; ¹Univers;
Bains; Europe; Globe; Étrangers; H. de ¹l’Etablissement; ¹Paris;
¹Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, by the side of the Parc
de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; ¹Parc; Beausejour; and also
the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.
At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the ¹Poste;
Bourboule; Helder; ¹Louvre; Nice; ¹Ambassadeurs; ¹Continental.
Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublées) and villas to
let.
The figure (¹) indicates that the hotel is first-class, with
first-class prices, which vary according to the month and the story in
which the room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of
August the charge is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room
and two meals with wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra.
Service, ½ to 1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From
the 25th of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to
the 30th of September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should
bear this in mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.
The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed
upon beforehand it will be much the same.
The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three
bathing-houses, of which the most important is the Etablissement des
Thermes, a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the
side of the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and
Plage. Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etablissement
Chaussy and the Etablissement Mabru, both under the same roof. A part
of the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.
In the Etablissement des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to
31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st to
the 30th September, 2½ frs.
In the Etablissement Choussy the charges are ½ fr. less than in the
Thermes. In the Mabru they are ½ fr. less than in the Choussy.
The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and
in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs.
The duration of a bath, with or without a douche, and of an inhalation
or pulverisation sitting bath, must never exceed one hour, including
the time for dressing and undressing; whoever exceeds that time pays
double. Chairmen to the baths and back, 1½ fr.
[Headnote: SPRINGS.]
+The Springs.+
Bourboule possesses seven mineral springs, of which five are on the
right bank of the Dordogne, and two, the Sources Fenestre on the left,
in the Park. The three most important, the Perrière, the Choussy, and
Sédaiges, are within a few feet of each other, near the Mabru
bathhouse. They rise from the place where the trachytic rocks overlap
the granite, and were obtained by boring to the depth of from 82 to 92
ft. The water pumped up by steam-engines has, above ground,
a temperature of 140° F.
These three springs produce the strongest arsenical water as yet
discovered. Near them, but still on the same side of the river, are
the springs of the Puits de la Plage, 81°, and of the Puits Central,
104°, mineralised more feebly, but in the same proportions. The two
springs Fenestre, on the opposite side of the river, are cold (64°
F.), and as they contain more free carbonic acid gas than the others,
are drunk with wine at dinner.
+Their Constituents and Effects.+
Of the springs, Perrière, Choussy, and Sédaiges, each litre (11/50 of
a gallon) contains 82 grains of mineral substances, of which nearly
one half is the bicarbonate of soda, and the other half the chloride
of sodium; and every 28 ounces contains the third of a grain of the
arseniate of soda (see p. 379). Besides the special uses of these
waters arising from the arsenic, their composition, resembling that of
the serum of the blood, makes them applicable to cases of arrested
development, defective nutrition, cases of slow convalescence, and
other forms of general debility. In all scrofulous affections, such as
enlarged glands, scrofulous discharges from mucous membranes, diseases
of the bones, etc., these waters produce great benefit. But it is more
especially in the chronic forms of skin disease that La Bourboule
claims to effect the most remarkable cures, and chiefly when they
arise in connection with a rheumatic or scrofulous constitution, or as
the result of simple debility. The scrofulous form of pulmonary
consumption, nasal and pharyngeal catarrhs, asthma, and chronic
bronchitis, are all alleviated by the use of the Bourboule waters.
[Headnote: EXCURSIONS.]
+Bourboule Excursions.+
On the wall of the Etablissement des Thermes a notice indicates that
it is 2¼ m. from the Cascade de la Vernière, 2½ m. from the Cascade du
Plat-a-Barbe, 3-1/10 m. from Murat-le-Quaire, 5½ m. from
Mont-Dore-les-Bains, 4⅓ m. from the Cascade du Queureuilh, 4½ m. from
the Cascade de Rossignolet, 4¾ m. from the summit of the Puy Gros,
2½ m. from the petrifying spring, 3½ m. from the village of St.
Sauves, and 10⅘ m. from Latour. The most of these places are between
Mont-Dore and Bourboule.
The only promenade of interest which may be said to belong especially
to Bourboule is to the top of the Roche-Vendeix, with splendid
specimens of basaltic columns, 2¼ m. S. by a path following the right
or east bank of the stream Vendeix. About ¼ m. beyond, the Vendeix
path joins the high road between Latour and Mont-Dore, which traverses
the forest of La Reine and the forest of Bozat. Near the point of
junction, in a glade of the forest, are a large sawmill and Mont
Bozat. About 1¼ m. E. from the junction the high road crosses the
Clergue, where a path descends northwards by the stream passing the
Cascade Plat-a-Barbe, about 4½ m. from Bourboule by this roundabout
way, but only 2½ m. by the direct path. The falls, 60 ft. high, tumble
into a cavity bearing some resemblance to a barber’s shaving basin.
A little way farther down through the woods the Clergue makes the
cascade of La Vernière, consisting of a sheet of water 26 ft. high,
2¼ m. from Bourboule.
On the way between Bourboule and Mont-Dore, 1½ m. from Bourboule and
4 m. from Mont-Dore, a road extends 2½ m. N. to the summit of the Puy
Gros, 5003 ft. above the sea.
[Headnote: SAINT-NECTAIRE.]
+Mont-Dore to Issoire+,
31¾ m. E., by Saint Nectaire 15½ m. E., and Champeix other 8¾ m.
Diligence from St. Nectaire to Coudes railway station, 12½ m. E. The
Mont-Dore coach, after having passed by the cascades of the Saut-du-Loup
and of the Barbier, the village of Diane, the castle of Murols, and
traversed the village of Sachapt and its narrow gorge, arrives at
+Saint-Nectaire-le-Bas+, with a large bathing establishment. _Hotels:_
Paris; Madeuf; Mandon, etc.
N. from St. Nectaire-le-Bas is Saint-Nectaire-le-Haut, also with a large
bathing establishment, supplied with similar mineral waters. _Hotels:_
Mont Cornadore; France. The waters are alkaline, ferruginous, and
stimulant, temperature between 75° F. and 110° F., and are recommended
for renal and hepatic diseases, amenorrhœa, leucorrhœa, and gout. The
specialité may be said to be baths and douches of carbonic acid gas. In
Mont Cornadore are large caves.
The parish church, built on a rock, 11th cent., is a curious specimen
of Auvergnian architecture. In the neighbourhood, at Pernay, is a
dolmen, of which the horizontal surface is 13 ft. by 6½ ft.; and 2½ m.
distant the cascade of the Granges. 8¾ m. beyond, towards Issoire, is
Champeix, pop. 2100, most picturesquely situated in the valley of the
Couze. From Champeix the plateau of Pardines, 1620 ft., may be
ascended; whence continue to the Tour de Maurifolet, and descend by
the stair in the cliff to Perrier, pop. 600, among rocks pierced with
caves, 3 m. from Issoire (p. 372).
+Continuation of Route--Clermont to Brive.+
14 m. S.W. from Laqueuille by rail, 54 m. S.W. from Clermont, and 68 m.
N.E. from Brive, is +Eyguirande+, pop. 1150. Junction here with
loop-line to Largnac, 30 m. S. Coach daily to Murat 41 m. S., passing
Mauriac 12 m. S. (see Black’s _South France_, West Half).
31 m. S.W. from Eyguirande station is +Meymac+, pop. 3200, on the
Lozege. Romanesque church, tower 15th cent.; remains of fortifications.
Junction here with loop-line to Puy-Imbert, 9½ m. N., and close to
Limoges. (See _South France_, West Half.)
[Headnote: TULLE. BRIVE-LA-GAILLARDE.]
16¼ m. N.E. from Brive, and 105¾ m. S.W. from Clermont, is +Tulle+, pop.
15,500, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Notre Dame; Lyon; Charles. Firearms
and coarse woollens are made here, but not an inch of the fabric called
tulle.
122 m. S.W. from Clermont, 311 m. S. from Paris, 156 m. N. from
Toulouse, and 45 m. E. from Perigueux, is +Brive-la-Gaillarde+, pop.
12,000, on the Corrèze. _Hotels:_ Bordeaux; Toulouse (see Black’s _South
France_, West Half).
* * * * *
* * * *
* * * * *
INDEX.
ABRIES 344
Acqui 184
Agay 147
Aiguebelle 289
Aigueperse 368
Aigues-Mortes 73
Aiguilles 344
Aime 321
Aix-en-Provence 78, 338
· olive oil 79
+Aix+-les-Bains 283
---- to Geneva by Annecy 286
Alacoque, M. M. 27
Alais 375
Alan 49
Alassio 208
Albenga 208
Albertville 320
---- to Annecy 320
Albissóla 210
Alesia 19
Alessandria 280
Alise-St. Reine 19
Allègre 89
Allevard-les-Bains 336
Allos 339
Alvernia 279
Alzon 105
Amberieux 281
Ambert 91
Amplepuis 348
Ampuis 81
· wine 81
Amyot, Jacques 3
Ancy-le-Franc 18
Annecy 286
Annonay 81
Antibes 154, 169
Antraigues 94
Apricale 201
Aps 97
Apt 66
· preserves 66
Aramon 99
Arenzano 211
Ardèche, sketch of 45
---- coaches to 45
---- map of 46
Ardes 373
Arezzo 279
Arfeuilles 346
Arlanc 90
Arles 68, 376
· to Fontvieille 71
· to Port Bouc 72
· to Port St. Louis 72
· to St. Gilles 72
Arma 207
Arsac 86
Artemart 282
Arvant 373
Aspres 48, 345
Astet 89
Asti 280
Aubagne 122
Aubenas 93
Aups 145, 167
Auribeau 156
Autun 24
Auxerre 14
Avallon 16
Avenza 222
+Avignon+ 58
· Benezet’s bridge 63
· ---- tomb 62
· Hotels 58
· Hôtel de Ville 61
· J. S. Mill’s tomb 63
· Laura’s tomb 62
· Musée Calvet 61
· Museum of Natural History 62
· Notre Dame des Doms 60
· Popes’ palace 58
· Rocher des Doms 60
· St. Agricol 61
· St. Didier 62
· St. Joseph 62
· St. Nicolas 63
· St. Pierre 62
· to Manosque by Cavaillon 66
· to Nîmes 64
· to Vaucluse 64
· to Villeneuve 63
BAGNOLES-LES-BAINS 375
Bagnoles-sur-Ceze 99
Bains 91
Balaruc 76
Bandols 123
Banges 285
Bar 163
Barcelonnette 341
· to Cuneo 341
· to St. Paul 341
Bardonnechia 291
Barjols 143, 167
Barrème 166
Baths--Acqui 184
---- Aix-les-Bains 283
---- Aix-en-Provence 78
---- Allevard 336
---- Bagnols 375
---- Balaruc 76
---- Bourboule 383
---- Bourbon-Lancy 358
---- Bourbon l’Archambault 357
---- Challes 284, 288
---- Châteauneuf 369
---- Châtelguyon 369
---- Chateldon 367
---- Cusset 365
---- Foncaude 75
---- Gréoulx 168
---- La Motte 327
---- Lucca 230
---- Marlioz 284
---- Mont-Dore 378
---- Neyrac 94
---- Pougues-les-Eaux 352
---- Royat 376
---- Sail 348
---- St. Alban 348
---- St. Galmier 348
---- St. Giuliano 227
---- St. Honoré 354
---- St. Mart 377
---- St. Nectaire 385
---- Uriage 336
---- Valdieri 181, 182
---- Vals 103
---- Vichy 359
---- Vinadio 183
Beage, Le 84
Beaucaire 67
Beauchastel 82
Beaufort 46
Beaujolais 29
Beaulieu 184
Beaune 23
Beaurières 48
Beausset 123
Bec-de-l’Homme 331
Becket, Thomas à 11, 15, 17
Bedoin 56
Belgentier 129
Bellentre 321
Belleville 29
Belvedère 181
Berarde 330
Berlingots 56
Bernadette Soubirous 353
Berre 77
Bersezio 342
Bessée 344
---- to Mt. Pelvoux 344
Besse-en-Chandesse 381
Beza, T. 15
Billom 350
Blaizy-Bas 20
Bobbio 306
Bogliasco 219
Boileau 2
Bollène 50
+Bologna+ 315
· Accademia 315
· Ai Servi (church), 318
· Annunziata 320
· Biblioteca Communale 318
· Bolognese school 315
· Cabs 315
· Certosa 320
· Galvani 316
· Guido’s grave 319
· Madonna di S. Luca 320
· Mezzofanti 316
· Pal. Mercanzia 318
· Pal. Zampieri 318
· Picture gallery 315
· S. Bartolommeo 318
· S. Domenico 319
· S. G. Maggiore 316
· S. Petronio 317
· S. Pietro 319
· S. Stefano 318
· S. Vitale 319
· Torre Asinelli 317
· Torre Garisenda 317
· University 316
Bondonneau 49
+Bordighera+ 200
Bormes 142
Borne 89
Bossuet, J. B. 22
Bouillabaisse 113
Boulerie 147
Bourbon-Lancy baths 358
Bourbon-l’Archambault baths 357
+Bourboule+ 383
Bourdeaux 47
Bourg-Argental 81
Bourg-d’Oisans 329
---- to Lac Blanc 329
---- to the Ecrin group 329
Bourgoin 322
Bourg-St. Andeol 97
Bourg-St. Maurice 321
Breuil, Le 373
Briançon 332
---- to Mt. Pelvoux 333, 345
---- to Oulx 333
Briare 352
Brignoles 142, 167
Brillane 339
Brioude 374
Brive 386
Brogny 287
Brunoy 2
Buffon, Comte de 18
Burgundy wines 22, 23, 24
Busalla 279
Bussoleno 291
CAGNES 165
Callian 162
Camaldoli 278
Camargue 70, 72
Campo-Rosso 201
+Cannes+ 149
· Agents 149
· Adalbert 151, 159
· Antibes 154
· Auribeau 156
· Banks 151
· Brougham, Lord 151, 155
· Cabs 151
· Californie 152
· Canal 152, 162
· Cannet 154
· Castelaras 156
· Cemetery 152
· Churches 151
· Clausonne 154
· Climate 151
· Corniche 152
· Croisette, La 154
· Croix des Gardes 155
· Drives 152
· Estérels 155
· Hesperide 154
· Hotels and Pensions 149
· Iron Mask 157
· Lerins Islands 156
· Mont Vinaigre 156
· Mouans-Sartoux 156
· Mougins 156
· Napoule 154
· N. D. d’Esperance 151
· Observatories 151, 152
· Pegomas 156
· Pottery 153
· St. Anne 151
· St. Cassien 155
· St. Honorat 158
· St. Marguerite 157
· Théoule 155
· Vallauris 153
Carnoules 142
Carpentras 54
+Carqueyranne+ 141
· Mont Negre 141
· Mont Paradis 141
Carrara 222
Casset, Le 332
Cassini, G. D. 201
Castellane 165
Castellaro 206
Cavaillon 66
Cayres 88
Celles-les-Bains 83
Cercy-la-Tour 25, 354
Certosa 184
Cervo 208
Cesanne 333
Cette 75
---- to Balaruc 76
Chablis 14
Chabons 323
Chagny 24, 355
Chaise-Dieu 89
Challes 284, 288
Chalon-sur-Saône 26
Chambertin 23
Chambery 287
Chambon 380
Champeix 385
Charenton 2
Charmes 82
Charmettes, Les 288
Châteauneuf (Riom) 369
Châteauroux 343
Châtelard, Le 285
Chateldon 367
Châtelguyon 369
Châtillon 47
Châtillon (Lake Bourget) 282
Châtillon-sur-Loing 351
Châtillon-sur-Loire 352
Chavanay 81
Cheilard 83
Chenal 341
Chiavari 220
Chiomonte 291
Chorges 342
Cirque-d’Annibal 321
Citeaux abbey 23
Claix 328, 345
Clamecy 354, 15
Clelles 345
+Clermont-Ferrand+ 369
· Academie 371
· Botanic gardens 371
· Cathedral 370
· Coaches 370
· Hotels 369
· Notre Dame 371
· Pascal’s house 370
· Peter the Hermit 371
· Preserved fruits 370
· Puy de Dome 372
· Romagnat 372
· to Brive by Mont-Dore-les-Bains and Bourboule 376
· to Lyons by St. Etienne 349
Cluny 27
Cogoleto 210
Cogolin 145
Col Abriés 307
---- Braus 183
---- Brouis 183
---- Cabres 48
---- Cerise 181
---- Chavade 89
---- Croix 306
---- Finestra 181
---- Fremamorta 181
---- Lautaret 331
---- Longet 341
---- Maddalena 342
---- Maure 339
---- Moulières 181
---- Muselle 330
---- Mulo 342
---- Ribeyret 51
---- Sestrières 307
---- Tenda 183
---- Traversette 308, 344
Colla, La 202
Colmars 339
Collobrières 130
Columbus 211
Condamine-Châtelard 342
Condamine, La 189
Condrieu 81
· wine 81
Cornigliano 212
Corps 334
Correggio 313
Corsena 230
Cosne 352
Cote d’Or 22
Coupe-d’Aizac 94
Courmayeur 322
Courpière 91
Courty 350
Craponne 89
Cravant 14, 355
Crest 46
---- to Aspres 47
Crissolo 308, 344
Croisière, La 50
Croix Blanche 105
Cruseilles 287
Cruzy-le-Chatel 18
Cuers 130, 142
Culinary terms xxiii
Culoz 282
Cuneo 182, 279, 308
---- to Barcelonnette 341
---- to Nice 182
Cusset 365
DARCEY 19
Darsac 89
---- to Chaise-Dieu 89
Dauphin, Le 331
Decize 25
Demonte 342
Dent de Nivolet 288
Dent-du-Chat 282
Diano Marina 208
Die 47
Dieulefit 47
Digne 166
Digoin 358
Dijon 20
Doctors’ fees 110
Dolce-Acqua 201
Domène 336
Dompierre-sur-Bebre 357
Donzère 50
Doussard 287
Draguignan 145
Duingt 287
Duke of Berwick 356
Duranus 180
Durtol 377
EAUX CHAUDES 166
Embrun 343
Enchastraye 330
Entraque 181
Epinac 24
Escragnolles 165
Espaly 89
Estaque, L’ 80
Estérels 146, 156
Etang 25
Eugene Sué 286
Eyguirande 386
Eze 186
FAYENCE 145
Fenestrelle 307
Feurs 346
Fiesole 276
Finalmarina 209
Fix-St. Geneys 91
Flavigny 19
+Florence+ 233
· Academy of Fine Arts 271
· Alkermes 268
· Alvernia 279
· Amerigo Vespucci 275
· Arcetri 248
· Arezzo 279
· Badia, La 263
· Baptistery 256
· Bargello 261
· Bello Sguardo 250
· Bibbiena 279
· Bibliotheca Laurentiana 266
· ---- Nazionale 236
· Bigallo, Il 257
· Boboli Gardens 246
· Brancacci chapel 252
· Brunelleschi’s crucifix 268
· Cab tariff 234
· Camaldoli 278
· Campanile 255
· Cascine 276
· Cathedral 252
· Certosa 250
· Dante 258
· David, by Michael Angelo 272
· Donatello’s crucifix 260
· Duomo 252
· Galileo 247, 260
· Galleria Uffizi 237
· Gallery of mosaics 273
· Guide books 234
· Hawkwood, John 255
· Hospital St. Giovanni 275
· Hotels and apartments 233
· House of Amerigo Vespucci 275
· ---- of Dante 274
· ---- of Galileo 248
· ---- of Macchiavelli 247
· ---- of Michael Angelo 263
· Ketterick, John 259
· Loggia Orcagna 235
· Luca della Robbia ware 263
· Masaccio 252
· Money-changers 234
· Monte Oliveto 251
· Mortuary chapel 255
· Mosaic manufacture 273
· Museum of Etruscan Antiquities 267
· ---- Nat. Hist. 247
· National Museum 261
· Niobe 242
· Ognissanti 275
· Or St. Michele 257
· Palaces 273
· Palazzo Corsini 275
· ---- Riccardi 275
· ---- Strozzi 275
· ---- Torrigiani 276
· ---- Vecchio 274
· Park 276
· Pazzi chapel 260
· Perazzi chapel 259
· Piazza S. Annunziata 269
· ---- S. Croce 258
· ---- Signoria 235
· Piazzale Michelangiolo 249
· Picture gallery of S. Marco 270
· Pitti gallery 243
· ---- palace 246
· Pontassieve 278
· Porta Romana 248
· Post office 236
· Prefettura della Provincia 275
· Protestant churches 234
· Raphael 239
· Refectory of S. Croce 261
· Restaurants 234
· Rucellai chapel 268
· Sagrestia Nuova 265
· S. Annunziata 268
· S. Croce 258
· S. Giovannino 264
· S. Lorenzo 264
· S. Marco 270
· S. Maria del Carmine 252
· S. Maria del Fiore 252
· ---- Novella 267
· S. Michele 257
· S. Miniato 249
· S. Spirito 251
· Sarto, Andrea del 269
· Savonarola 270
· Sights 234
· Spezeria 268
· Straw-plaiting 277
· Torre del Gallo 248
· Tribuna 238
· ---- di Galileo 247
· Uffizi gallery 237
· Vallombrosa 278
· Venus de Medici 238
· Views 250
Foncaude baths 75
Fontainebleau 3
Fontana 183
Fontenay abbey 19
Forcalqueiret 129
Fos 76
Fourchambault 353
Freaux, Les 331
Frejus 146
Freney, Le 331
Frontignan 75
· salt 75
· wine 75
GALLINARIA 208
Gannat 368
Gap 340,
---- to Barcelonnette 340
---- to Grenoble 342
Garabit, Pont de 374
Gardanne 80, 142, 338
---- to Carnoules 142
Genoa 212, 279
· Accademia 216
· Acquasola 216
· Albergo dei Poveri 218
· Cabs 213,
· Cafés 213,
· Campo-Santo 218
· Cathedral 217
· Corsos 213
· English church 212
· Hotels 212
· Money-changers 213
· Palazzo Adorno 216
· ---- Balbi 215
· ---- Doria 214
· ---- ---- (Giorgio) 216
· ---- Ducal 217
· ---- Durazzo 215
· ---- Municipicio 216
· ---- Rosso 216
· ---- Serra 216
· ---- Spinola 216
· Post office 216
· Royal Palace 214
· S. Ambrogio 217
· S. Annunziata 215
· S. Maria in Carignano 218
· S. Matteo 217
· S. Siro 215
· Shops 212
· Steamers 213
· Telegraph office 213
· Valdensian church 212
· Via Circonvallazione 213
· Via Milano 214
Gerbier-de-Joncs 84
Gevrey 23
Giandola 183
Gien 351
+Giens+ 140
· La Madrague 141
· Le Chateau 141
· Salt works 141
· Semaphore 141
Gières 336
Gilly 358
Givors-Canal 81, 349
Gleyzin glacier 337
Golf Jouan 169
Goncelin 336
Gonfaron 131
Gourdon 163
Grand Som 324
Grande-Chartreuse 323
Grande Combe 375
Grasse 160
Grave, La 331
+Grenoble+ 324
· Bastile 325
· Bayard 325
· Coaches 325, 327
· Gloves 327
· Hotels 324
· Library 326
· Picture gallery 326
· St. André 325
· St. Laurent 327
· to Barcelonnette 341
· to Briançon 328
· to Corps 333
· to Gap 342
· to La Motte-les-Bains 327
· to Sassenage 327
Gréoulx 167
Grignan 49
Grimaud 144
Guerigny 354
Guillestre 344
HAUTECOMBE ABBEY 284
Hermitage wine 43
Hospice of Little St. Bernard 321
+Hyères+ 133
· Banks 133
· Butterflies 139
· Cabs 134
· Caterpillars 139
· Charles of Anjou 136
· Château, Le 136
· Climate 140
· Clubs 134
· Cork trees 139
· Costebelle 136
· Drives 134
· English Pharmacy 133
· Episcopal Chapel 133
· Fenouillet, Mont 137
· Game 138
· Hermitage 136
· Hotels 133
· Jardin d’Acclimatation 136
· La Plage 140
· Map 129
· Massillon 135
· Napoleon I. 136
· Oiseaux Monts. 128
· Olive trees 138
· Palm sticks 108
· Palms 136
· Paradis, Mont 141
· Pauline, La 142
· Pipes 139
· Potence 139
· Productions 139
· St. Louis 136
· St. Paul 135
· Stage coaches 134
· Temple Protestant 133
· Town water 139
· Trou des Fées 138
· View from Le Château 137
ILES DE LERINS 157
Iles d’Or 131
Il Serraglio 230
Issoire 372,
· coach to St. Nectaire 385
Isola Buona 201
Istres 76
Italian railway terms and time-tables 200, 291
JAUJAC 95
Jausiers 342
Javie 339
Jean-Sans-Peur 10, 20, 22
Joigny 14
Jouques 79
Joyeuse 96
LA BALME 282
La Barben 79
La Bastide 375
La Begude 93
La Bollene 181
La Chalp 306
La Chambre 289
La Charité 352
La Ciotat 122
La Crau 130
La Garde 128, 130
La Garde Fraiseinet 144
La Madrague 141
La Monta 344
La Mothe 94
La Palisse 346, 368
La Pauline 142
La Roche 14
La Salle 334
La Salette 334
La Sauvetat 88
La Seyne 123
La Valette 128
La Voulte 82
Lachamp-Raphael 84
Laffrey 333
Lagnieu 282
Laigueglia 208
Lake Allos 339
---- Annecy 286
---- Bourget 282
---- Paladru 323
---- Pavin 381
---- Thau 76
Lamartine 27
Lambesc 80
Langeac 91, 375
Langogne 95, 375
---- to Le Puy 88
Lans-le-Bourg 290
Lantosque 180
Laqueuille 377
---- to Mont-Dore 377
---- to Bourboule 377
Larche 342
Largentière 96
---- to Les Laumes 14
Larzac 106
Laudun 99
Laurent-du-Pont 323
Lauzet 331
Lauzet, Le 341
Lavandou 143
Le Barroux 57
Le Beage 84
Le Bouchet 88
Le Buis 57
Le Creusot 25
Le Monastier 85
Le Pal 96
Le Peage de Roussillon 43
Le Pouzin 92
Le Puy 86
Le Teil 93
Le Trayas 149
Leghorn 226
Lemons 191, 194, 201
Lerici 221
Les Arcs 145
Les Baux 67
Les Etables 85
Les Etages 330
Les Laumes 19
Les Marches 289, 338
Les Piles 51
Les Saintes Maries 72
Les Salins 141
Leschaux 287
Levant, Ile du 132
Levens 180
Limone 183
L’Isle 64
Livet 329
Livron 46
Loano 209
Lorgues 145
Lord Clarendon 356
Lovagny 286
Luc 144
+Lucca+ 227
· Cabs 227
· Cathedral 228
· Hotels 227
· Picture gallery 228
· S. Frediano 229
· S. Michele 229
Luc-en-Diois 48
Lunel 72
· wine 73
Lurs 339
Luserna 305
Luzy 25
+Lyons+ 29
· Antiquaille Hospital 33
· Aqueduct 34
· Boats, Penny 31
· Bourse 38
· Cabs 30
· Cathedral 34
· Cheese 42
· Condition des Soies 37
· Distances 29
· First sewing-machine 38
· Flourvière 32
· History 41
· Hospice 39
· Hôtel de Ville 37
· ---- Dieu 39
· Hotels 29
· Ile Barbe 42
· Jacquard’s loom 38
· Libraries 37, 38
· Minerals 37
· Mont Ceindre 41
· ---- d’Or 42
· Musée Archéologique 36
· ---- Guimet 40
· ---- Lapidaire 35
· ---- of Silk 38
· Notre Dame 33
· Observatoire Gay 33
· Palais de Justice 35
· ---- des Beaux Arts 35
· Park 40
· Picture gallery 36
· Place des Terreaux 37
· Post office 30
· Préfecture 37
· Railway station 30
· St. Bruno 37
· St. Irénée 34
· St. Martin d’Ainay 39
· St. Nizier 35
· St. Paul 33
· St. Pierre 35
· St. Polycarpe 37
· Sights 32
· Silk museum 38
· Squares (Places) 32
· Steamers 31
· Tête d’Or 40
· Theatres 31
· to Nîmes 81
· Trams 31
· Weavers 40
· Workhouse (Hospice) 39
MACON 26
· wines 24
Maisons-Alfort 2
Malaucene 57
Manosque 66, 166, 168, 339
Marcols 84
Marlioz 284
+Marseilles+ 80, 111
· Anglican chapel 112
· Arc de Triomphe 116
· Biblothèque 117
· Bishop Belsunce 116
· Boats 112
· Bonneveine 113
· Bouillabaisse 113
· Bourse 116
· Cabs 111
· Canal 77
· Cathedral 115
· Charities 119
· Château Borely 113
· Commerce 120
· Consigne 115
· Corniche 113
· Custom-house 112
· École des Beaux Arts 117
· History 120
· Hôtel de Ville 115
· Hotels 111
· If, island of 118
· Industries 119
· Joliette 115
· Lazarus’s grave 119
· Lycée 117
· Marseillaise, the 120
· Martigues 118
· Money-changers 112
· Musée d’Archéologie 113
· Notre Dame 117
· Observatory 115
· Palais de Justice 116
· ---- Longchamp 114
· Port 115
· Préfecture 116
· Reservoir 115
· St. Victor 117
· Sights 112,
· Steamboats 112
· Temple 112
· to Grenoble 338
· to Menton 112
· Trams 113,
· Zoological garden 115
Martinet 341
Mary Magdalene 124, 145
Massa 223
Maurin 341
Mayres 89, 94
Meana 291
Meije 331
Melun 2
Menthon 287
+Menton+ 193
· Annunciata 196
· Banks 194
· Bennet garden 197
· Berceau 196
· Cabs 194
· Cape St. Martin 195
· Castellar 196
· Castellon 197
· Caves 195
· Churches 194
· Ciotti 197
· Climate 199
· Gorvio 197
· Gourg-d’Ora 197
· Grimaldi 197
· Hanbury grounds 197
· Hotels 193
· Mont Baudon 196
· Monti 198
· Mortola 197
· St. Agnese 196
· ---- (village) 197
· St. Louis 196
· to Genoa 199
Meounes 129
Meursault 24
Meymac 386
Meyrargues 80
Meze 76
Mezillac 84
Mirabeau 338
Mirabouc 306
Miramas 76
---- to Port Bouc 76
Modane 290
---- by road to Susa 290
+Modena+ 313
· Campanile 314
· Cathedral 314
· Library 314
· Museo Lapidario 315
· Picture gallery 314
Moirans 324
+Monaco+ 187
Monastier, Le 85
Mondoví 184, 304
Monestier de Clermont 345
Monètier de Briançon 332
Monge, Gaspard 23
Monistrol-d’Allier 91
Mons cave 163
Mont Agel 192
---- Aulas 105
---- Auxois 19
---- Belledonne 336
---- Cenis 290
---- ---- Hospice 290
---- Chenavari 93
---- Coudon 125, 128
---- Faron 127
---- Ferrand 331
---- Genèvre 333
---- Gergovia 372
---- Grand Sambiu 79
---- Gravenne 96
---- Meidassa 305, 344
---- Mezenc 85
---- Pelvoux 333, 344, 345
---- Pilat 348
---- Pirchiriano 291
---- Protomagno 278
---- Sancy 381
---- Semnoz 287
---- Taillefer 329
---- Ventoux 56, 57
---- Vestide 96
---- Viso 305, 344
Montagnac 88
Montallieu 281
Montargis 351
Montauroux 162
Montbard 18
Montbrison 349
Montchanin 25
Mont-Dore-les-Bains 378
---- to Issoire 385
---- to St. Nectaire 385
Mont Dauphin 306, 307, 343
---- to Saluzzo 344
Monte Carlo 189, 192
Monte Grosso 210
Montélimart 48
Montereau 10
Montgeron 2
Mont-Majour 71
Montmélian 167, 289, 338
+Montpellier+ 73
· École de Médecine 74
· Musée Fabre 74
· to Palavas 75
· wine 75
Montpezat 96
Montrieux 129
Moret 10
Mornas 46
Moulins 355
---- Les 190
Moustiers Ste. Marie 167
Moutiers on Doron 320
Mure, La 334, 342
Murols 382
NAPOLEON I. 64
Napoule 156
Narce 89, 94
+Nervi+ 219
Neussargues 374
Nevers 353
Neyrac 94
+Nice+ 169
· Banks 172
· Booksellers 172
· Cabs 173
· Cafés 172
· Carabacél 177
· Caterina Segurmana 176
· Cathedral 176
· Château, Le 175
· Churches 173
· Cimiés 177
· Climate 174
· Clubs 172
· Column 177
· Confectioneries 173
· Contes 174
· Crois-de-Marbre 177
· Diligences 173
· Drives 178
· Falicon 180
· Garibaldi 176
· Hotels and Pensions 170
· House agents 172
· Jardin Public 178
· Luther 176
· Massena 177
· Memorial chapel 176
· Money-changers 172
· Mont Chauve 179
· Monte Carlo 178
· Museum 178
· Observatory 180
· Paganini 176
· Palais de Lascaris 176
· Pharmacies 172
· Post office 172
· Promenade 175
· Protestant churches 173
· Public library 172
· St. André 179
· St. Augustin 176
· St. Jean 178
· St. Pons 179
· Val Obscur 178
· Vallon des Fleurs 179
· Vallons 174
· Villa Clery 179
· Villefranche 178, 184
Nicholas V. 221
Nieigles 95
Nîmes 101, 376
---- to Vigan 105
Nolay 24
Noli 209
Novi 279
Nuits 23
Nuits-sous-Ravieres 18
Nyons 50
---- to Serres 51
OLBON 83
Olliergues 91
Ollioules 123
Olive tree 138
Orange 51
---- Prince of 52
Orcival 380
Orgon 66
Ortolans 56
Ospedaletti 201, 202
Oulx 291, 333
Ours-Mons 88
PALAVAS 75
Paradisino 278
Paray-le-Monial 27
Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne 346
---- to Marseilles 1
---- Directions 1
---- to Marseilles by Clermont and Nîmes 351
---- to Marseilles by Lyons 1
---- to Turin by Aix-les-Bains 281
---- to Turin by Grenoble 322
Parma 310
Parmesan cheese 313
Pas-des-Lanciers 80, 88, 376
Pegli 211
Pelago 278
Pelussin 81
Perinaldo 201
Perosa 307
---- to Cesanne 307
----to Mont-Dauphin 307
Pertuis 77, 338
Petite Afrique 186
Petrarch 65
Peyerbelle 89, 95
Peyraud 81
Peyrolles 79
Piacenza 309
Pian Fiorenza 308
---- del Ré 308
Pierre-Chatel 334
Pierrefeu 130
Pietrasanta 223
Pigna 201
Pinerolo 306
+Pisa+ 223
· Baptistery 225
· Cabs 224
· Campo Santo 225
· Cathedral 224
· Hotels 223
· Leaning Tower 225
· Post office 224
· Santa Maria 226
· University 226
Pistoja 231
Polignac 89
Pomaretto 307
Pomponiana 143
Pontaix 47
Pontassieve 277
Pont Avignon 99
---- d’Arc 97
---- de-la-Beaune 95
---- du-Gard 104
---- Ecofier 329
---- Gibaud 377
---- St. Esprit 98
Pontcharra 337
Pontigny 16
Pontius Pilate 43
Porquerolles 131
Port Bouc 76
---- to Arles 76
Port Cros 132
---- Grau du Roi 73
---- Man 132
---- St. Louis 72
Porto Maurizio 207
---- Oneglia 208
---- Venere 220
Portofino 220
Pougues-les-Eaux 352
Pouilly-sur-Loire 352
Pourcheyrolles 95
Pouzin 92
Pra 211
Pradelles 89, 95
Prades (Ardèche) 95
Prato 232
Praz 289
Pré-St Didier 321
Prices 109
Privas 92
Puget, Pierre 80
Puget-Theniers 182
Puligny 24
Puy-de-Dome 372
QUEYRAS 344
Quincy abbey 18
RANDAN 366, 368
Rapallo 220
Reggio Emilia 313
Remoulins 99
Resin baths 48, 57
Rians 79
Riez 166, 168
Riom 369
Riouperoux 329
Rioutort 96
Ris 367
Rives 323
+Riviera, the+ 107
· Climate 108
· Cost of living 109
· road to 1
· Vegetation 108
Roanne 346, 348
Robilante 183
Rocavignon 160
Roche Cevins 320
Rochemaure 92
Rocher Blanc 164
---- Noir 165
Rognac 77, 376
---- to Aix-en-Provence 77
---- to Roquefavour 77
Romaneche 28
Roquebillère 181
Roquebrune 192
Roquefavour aqueduct 77
Roquemaure 99
Roquotaillado tunnel 162
Rosans 51
Roumoulles 168
Rousseau, J. J. 287, 288
Rouvray 16
Royat 376
Ruoms 96
Ruota 201
SAILLANS 47
Sail-les-Bains 348
Saincaize 355
St. Agnan 358
St. Agnes 131
St. Alban 348
St. Ambroix 96
St. André-le-Gaz 322
---- to Chambery 322
St. Auban 166, 339
St. Baume (Agay) 147
---- (Bouches du Rhône) 144
St. Bernard 27, 287
St. Cannat 79
St. Cesaire 162
St. Chamas 76, 376
St. Christophe 330
St. Cyre 123
St. Didier 57
St. Edmund 17
St. Etienne 346, 349
· manufactories of muskets, pistols, swords, and ribbons 346, 347
St. Eulalie 96
St. Florentin 16
---- to Chablis 16
St. Galmier 346, 348
St. Georges-d’Aurac 91, 374
St. Germain 321
St. Germain-au-Mont d’Or 29
St. Germain-des-Fossés 358
St. Gilles 72
St. Honorat 158
St. Honoré baths 354
St. Honoré-les-Bains 25, 354
St. Jean 185
St. Jean du Bruel 106
St. Julien-du-Sault 13
St. Louis (king) 73
St. Marcel caves 98
St. Marcellin 324
---- to Pont-en-Royan 324
St. Marguerite 157
St. Mart 377
St. Martin 98
St. Martin-Lantosque 181
St. Maurice 2, 50
St. Maximin 143
St. May 51
St. Menet 122
St. Michael (Mont Cenis) 289
St. Nazaire 123
St. Nectaire 385
St. Pardoux 357
St. Paul-Trois-Château 50
St. Péray 82
· wine 82
St. Pêre 15
St. Pierre-d’Albigny 289
---- to Annecy 289
---- to Courmayeur 320
St. Pierre-d’Argenson 48
St. Pierreville 83
St. Pilon 144
St. Pons 341
St. Priest 322
St. Privat 91
St. Rambert-d’Albon 43
+St. Raphael+ 147
St. Remi-en-Rollat 368
St. Remy 67
St. Sauveur 83, 182
St. Seine 19
St. Thomé 97
St. Tropez 145
St. Vallier 43, 165
St. Yorre 366
Salon 66
Saluzzo 307, 344
---- to Cuneo 307
---- to Mont Dauphin 308
---- to Paesana 308
---- to Sampeyre 308, 344
Sampierdarena 212
San Ambrogio (Mt. Cenis) 291
San Chiaffredo 308
San Dalmazzo 308
San Giuliano 227
+San Remo+ 203
· Cabs 203
· Ceriana 204
· Climate 204
· Hotels 203
· Madonna 205
· Monte Bignone 205
· Poggia 204
· St. Romolo 205
· ---- to Taggia 207
San Stefano 207
San Terenzo 221
Sancerre 352
+Santa Margherita+ 220
Saou 46
Sarzana 221
Sassenage 327
Sauclières 105
Saugues 91
Saulieu 16
Saut-du-Loup 373
Savigny 24
Savines 343
Savona 209
Sea bathing 110
Séchilienne 329
Seez 321
Seine, source of 19
Semur 16
Senez 166
Sens 10
Sept Laux 337
Sermizelles 15
Serres 51, 340
Serrières 81
Sestri Levante 220
---- Ponente 212
Settignano 277
Seyne-les-Alpes 339
Shelley 221, 223
Sisteron 339
Six-Fours 123
Solliès-Pont 129, 142
Solliès-Ville 129, 142
Sorgues 54
Sospello 182
Source of the Loire 84
Souvigny 356
Spezia 220
Steam trams 304
Sue du Pal 96
Susa 291
Suze-le-Rousse 50
TAGGIA 206, 207
Tain 43
Talloires 286
Tanlay 17
Tarascon 66, 376
· Martha’s grave 67
Taulignan 49
Tavernettes, Les 290
Teil 93
Tenay 282
Tenda 183
Termignon 290
Theoule 155
Thezièrs 99
Thiers 367, 350
Thomery 10
Thueyts 94
Thuile 321
Tonnerre 17
Torre-Péllice 305
---- to Mont Dauphin 306
+Toulon+ 124
· Arsenal 125
· Bagne 125
· Balaguier 127
· Belle-Poule 124
· Cap Brun 128
· Cathedral 126
· Dardenne 128
· Diligences 129
· Hotels 124
· Le Pradet 128
· Le Tamaris 127
· Mont Faron 127
· Omnibuses 124, 128
· Port, the 124
· Puget’s house 126
· Rue Lafayette 126
· St. François de Paule 126
· St. Mandrier 127
· St. Marguerite 128
· Smith, Sir Sydney 126
· Temple Protestant 124
· Town Hall 126
Tour-du-Pin 322
Tournon 82
Tournus 26
Trayas, Le 148
Trets 144
Trévoux 29
Trinité-Victor 182
Troy weight 13
Troyes 11
Truffles 55
Tulle 386
Turbie, La 191, 192
+Turin+ 292
· Accademia Albertina 300
· Armoury 297
· Biblioteca del Ré 297
· Booksellers 293
· Cabs 292
· Cafés 293
· Castello, the 299
· Cathedral 298
· Cavour house 294
· ---- monument 301
· Cemetery 302
· Gran Madre di Dio 300
· Gressini 303
· Hotels 292
· King’s palace 298
· La Consolata 301
· Medagliere del Ré 297
· Money-changers 293
· Monuments 293, 301
· Museo Civico 299
· Museum of antiquities and picture gallery 294
· Museum of zoology and mineralogy 297
· Palazzo Carignano 297
· ---- dell’ Accademia delle Scienze 294
· ---- di Citta 301
· Piazza Carlo Felice 293
· ---- dello Statuto 293
· ---- San Carlo 293
· ---- Vitt. Emanuele 300
· Post and telegraph offices 293
· Railway stations 293
· Superga, La 302
· Teatro Regio 298
· Theatres 293
· to Cuneo 153
· to Florence 309
· to Genoa 279
· to Savona 183
· Trams 292
· University 300
· Via di Po 300
· Wines 303
UBAYE 341
Uriage baths 336
Usclades 96
Uzès 99
VAISON 53
Val Louise 333, 345
Valbonne 98
Valdieri 181, 182
Valence 44
---- coaches from 45
Vallauris 154
Valleraugue 105
Vallombrosa 278
Vallon 97
Valréas 49
Vals 93
Var 169
Varazze 210
Varennes 26
Varzy 354
Vassivières 381
Vaucluse 64
Vaugris 43
Velars 20
Venanson 181
Vence 163
Vence-Cagnes 169
Vencigliato 277
Venosc 330
Ventimiglia 200
Vernet 91
---- (Digne) 339
Verrey 19
Vesseaux 93
Veynes 340
Vezelay 15
Viareggio 223
+Vichy+ 359
Vienne 42
Vif 345
Vigan 105
---- to Millau 105
Villa Pallavicini 211
Villard-d’Arène 331
Villefort 375
---- to Bagnol-les-Bains 375
Villefranche 184
Villefranche-sur-Saône 29
Villeperdrix 51
Ville-la-Vieille 344
Villeneuve-les-Avignon 63
· Hospital 63
· Marchioness de Ganges 63
Villeneuve-St. George 2
Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 13
Vinadio 183, 342
Virieu 322
Virieu-le-Grand 282
Viviers 97
Vizille 328, 333, 345
Voghera 309
Voiron 323
· coach to the Grande Chartreuse 323
Voltri 211
Volvic 369, 377
Volx 339
Voreppe 324
· coach to the Grande Chartreuse 324
Vougeot 23
Voulte, La 82
Voute-Chilhac 91
WALDENSES, OR VAUDOIS 305
Waldensian valleys 304
Warrens, Mme. 286, 288
Wellington 2
THE END.
_Printed by R. & R. CLARK, Edinburgh_.
* * * * *
* * * *
* * * * *
Errors and Inconsistencies
LIST OF MAPS:
+Mont Cenis railway+, Plan of 291 [text has “191”]
A few points are missing “from” or “to” mileages. They have not been
individually noted. Two occurrences of “Coreggio” for “Correggio” have
been silently corrected.
Map references are inconsistent. The “Rhône and Savoy” map was printed
twice, between pages 26/27 and 106/107. In the List of Maps it is given
as “page 107”; in the text it is randomly cited as “page 27” and “page
26”. “Map. p. 199” and “p. 200” both refer to the Italian Riviera map;
it is also cited twice as “p. 220”. The map of Hyères (p. 129) is twice
cited as “p. 177”.
Occupied successively by Marie de Medicis, [_elsewhere “Médicis”_]
Antoine Bourbon (father of +Henri IV.+),
[_closing parenthesis missing_]
H. Rigaud, 1552-1745
[_text unchanged: Hyacinthe Rigaud 1659-1743_]
23 m. E. from Crest, and 34 m. W. from Aspres, is Die
[_text has “23 m. L.”_]
[Pisa] in the Lung’ Arno Regio [_text has “Lung ’Arno”_]
[headnote] ... S. FREDIANO [_text has “S. FREDIANA”_]
E vi mori il 6 Giugno 1861.” [_close quote missing_]
and for description, Black’s _France_, North half).
[_closing parenthesis missing_]
+Avignon to Nîmes+ ...
[_text has 110 for 101 and 114 for 104_]
[Florence]
... in the Sagrestia Nuova, see page 266. [_text has 166 for 266_]
From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line
[_text has 246 for 346_]
INDEX
_Inconsistencies between Index and body text were changed when one
form was clearly wrong; others are simply noted. Page references that
were wrong by only one page were disregarded._
Avignon: St Didier [_spelled “Dedier” in body text_]
Bardonnecchia [_text has “Bardonnechia”_]
Estérels [_spelled “Estérel” in body text_]
Florence: S. Maria del Fiore [_text has “del Fiori”_]
Hyeres: Oiseaux Monts 138 [_text has 128_]
Menton: Annunciata [_spelled “Annonciade” in body text_]
--: Gorvio [_spelled “Gorbio” in body text_]
--: Castellon 199 [_text has 197_]
Rocher Blanc [_spelled “Roche-Blanche” in body text_]
San Remo: Poggio [_text has “Poggia”_]
St Michael [_spelled “Michel” in body text_]
*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The South of France—East Half" ***
Copyright 2023 LibraryBlog. All rights reserved.