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Title: Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia : from Moreton Bay to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during the years 1844-1845
Author: Leichhardt, Ludwig, 1813-1848
Language: English
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Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia: From Moreton Bay
to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during
the years 1844-1845
by Ludwig Leichhardt
"Die Gotter brauchen manchen guten Mann
Zu ihrem Dienst auf dieser weiten Erde"
GOETHE, Iph. auf Tauris.
To
WILLIAM ALLEYNE NICHOLSON, ESQ., M.D. of Bristol;
To
ROBERT LYND, ESQ. OF SYDNEY
And to
THE GENEROUS PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES
This work is respectfully and gratefully dedicated,
By
The Author
PREFACE
In preparing this volume for the press, I have been under the greatest
obligations to Captain P. P. King, R. N., an officer whose researches
have added so much to the geography of Australia. This gentleman has not
only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which
will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of
obtaining the most correct information upon these subjects, during his
surveys of the coasts parallel to my track.
To S. A. Perry, Esq., Deputy Surveyor General, I am extremely indebted
for the assiduous labour he has bestowed in draughting my map. I shall
ever remember the friendly interest he expressed, and the courteous
attention with which he listened to the details of my journey.
From the Rev. W. B. Clarke, in addition to the unvaried kindness he has
evinced towards me since my arrival in Australia, I have received every
assistance which his high scientific acquirements enabled him to give.
I take this opportunity of publicly expressing my most sincere thanks to
these gentlemen, for the generous assistance they have afforded me on
this occasion, and for the warm interest which they have been kind enough
to take in the success of my approaching enterprise.
LUDWIG LEICHIJARDT.
SYDNEY,
September 29th, 1846.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I LEAVE THE LAST STATION--FOSSIL REMAINS--DARLING DOWNS--ENTER
THE WILDERNESS--WATERLOO PLAINS--THE CONDAMINE--HEAVY
RAINS--CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT--MURPHY AND CALEB LOST--KENT'S
LAGOON--COAL--MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN.
CHAPTER II PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB--MEET
FRIENDLY NATIVES--NATIVE TOMB--THE DAWSON--VERVAIN
PLAINS--GILBERT'S RANGE--LYND'S RANGE--ROBINSON'S
CREEK--MURPHY'S LAKE--MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY--EXPEDITION
RANGE--MOUNT NICHOLSON--ALDIS'S PEAK--THE BOYD.
CHAPTER III RUINED CASTLE CREEK--ZAMIA CREEK--BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE
OF FLOUR REDUCED--NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE--CHRISTMAS
RANGES--BROWN'S LAGOONS--THUNDER-STORMS--ALBINIA DOWNS--COMET
CREEK--NATIVE CAMP.
CHAPTER IV SWARMS OF COCKATOOS--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER
REDUCED--NATIVE FAMILY--THE MACKENZIE--COAL--NATIVES SPEAKING
A DIFFERENT IDIOM--MOUNT STEWART--BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE
WAY BACK TO THE CAMP--FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH
DAY--NEUMAN'S CREEK--ROPER'S PEAK--CALVERT'S PEAK--GILBERT'S
DOME--GREAT WANT OF WATER.
CHAPTER V DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE--PHILLIPS'S
MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN--HUGHS'S
CREEK--TOMBSTONE CREEK--CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY--THE
ISAACS--NATIVE WOMEN--COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE--GEOLOGICAL
CHARACTER--CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES--BROWN FOLLOWS
HIM--BOTH RETURN PENITENT--VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER--SKULL
OF NATIVE--FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.
CHAPTER VI HEADS OF THE ISAACS--THE SUTTOR--FLINT-ROCK--INDICATIONS OF
WATER--DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US--EASTER
SUNDAY--ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN--NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE
ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN--A BARTER WITH
THEM--MOUNT M'CONNEL.
CHAPTER VII THE BURDEKIN--TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE
ROCKS--THACKER'S RANGE--WILD FIGS--GEOLOGICAL REMARKS--THE
CLARKE--THE PERRY.
CHAPTER VIII BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL--NIGHT WATCH--ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY
LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY--MOUNT
LANG--STREAMS OF LAVA--A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND
EATEN--NATIVE TRIBE--MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT--WHITSUNDAY--BIG
ANT HILL CREEK--DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS--FRIENDLY
NATIVES--SEPARATION CREEK--THE LYND--PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS
OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS--NATIVE CAMP--SALT EXHAUSTED.
CHAPTER IX THE STARRY HEAVENS--SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE--SAWFISH--
TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES--THE MITCHELL--MURPHY'S
PONY POISONED--GREEN TREE-ANT--NEW BEVERAGE--CROCODILE--
AUDACITY OF KITES--NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY--THE CAMP ATTACKED
AT NIGHT BY THEM--MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED,
AND MR. GILBERT KILLED.
CHAPTER X INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA--NATIVES MUCH
MORE NUMEROUS--THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA--THE
STAATEN--A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP--THE VAN DIEMEN--THE
GILBERT--SINGULAR NATIVE HUTS--CARON RIVER--FRIENDLY
NATIVES--THE YAPPAR--MR. CALVERT RECOVERED--MODE OF
ENCAMPMENT--SWARMS OF FLIES--ABUNDANCE OF SALT--NATIVES
FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.
CHAPTER XI SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES--NATIVE
CARVING--AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED--THE ALBERT, OR
MAET SUYKER--NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU--
BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT--NATIVE DEVICE FOR TAKING
EMUS--BEAMES'S BROOK--THE NICHOLSON--RECONNOITRE BY
NIGHT--SMITH'S CREEK--THE MARLOW.
CHAPTER XII HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS--FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE
CAMP--TURNER'S CREEK--WENTWORTH'S CREEK--JOURNALS LOST; FOUND
AGAIN--THE VAN ALPHEN--IMPORTANCE OF TEA--CHOICE OF BULLOCKS
FOR AN EXPEDITION--CHOICE OF A DOG--THE CALVERT--THE ABEL
TASMAN--GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN--DISCOVER A MODE OF USING THE
FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS--SEVEN EMU RIVER--CROCODILE--THE
ROBINSON--SHOAL OF PORPOISES--NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE
FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD--MR. ROPER
CONVALESCENT--WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES--SUCCEED IN DRESSING
THE SEEDS OF STERCULIA--THE MACARTHUR--FRIENDLY PARLEY WITH
CIRCUMCISED NATIVES--STORE OF TEA EXHAUSTED--MEDICAL PROPERTY
OF THE GREVILLEA DISCOVERED.
CHAPTER XIII CAPE MARIA--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF
NATURAL HISTORY--LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER--HABITS OF WATER
BIRDS--NATIVE FISH TRAP--THE FOUR ARCHERS--THE WICKHAM--THE
DOG DIES--IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND GEESE--THE ROPER--THREE
HORSES DROWNED--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY BOTANICAL
COLLECTION--MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES,
CIRCUMCISED--HODGSON'S CREEK--THE WILTON--ANOTHER HORSE
DROWNED--ANXIETY ABOUT OUR CATTLE--AN ATTACK ON THE CAMP
FRUSTRATED--BOILS--BASALT AGAIN--INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE
SEEDS OF AN ACACIA.
CHAPTER XIV INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE--DISTRESSING HEAT--A HORSE STAKED: IT
DIES--MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES--MAGNIFICENT VALLEY--FRIENDLY
NATIVES--SHOT EXHAUSTED--INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS--SOUTH
ALLIGATOR RIVER--FRIENDLY NATIVES WITH AN ENGLISH
HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS--THEIR
LANGUAGE--MIRAGE.
CHAPTER XV JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH--THEY ARE VERY
FRIENDLY--ALLAMURR--DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY--EAST
ALLIGATOR RIVER--CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE--
IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF THE JOURNEY--NATIVES STILL
MORE INTELLIGENT--NYUALL--BUFFALOES; SOURCE FROM WHICH THEY
SPRUNG--NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US--MOUNT
MORRIS BAY--RAFFLES BAY--LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK
BEHIND--BILL WHITE--ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON--VOYAGE
TO SYDNEY.
APPENDIX
LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT
THE LEICHHARDT TESTIMONIAL
* * * * *
LIST OF PLATES (Not included in this etext)
Lagoon near South Alligator River
Portraits of "Charley" and "Harry Brown"
Mount Nicholson, Expedition Range, etc.
Peak Range
Red Mountain
Fletcher's Awl, etc.
Campbell's Peak
Mount M'Connel.
Ranges seen from a granitic hill between second and third camp
at the Burdekin
Robey's Range
Grasshopper
View near South Alligator River
Victoria Square, Port Essington
INTRODUCTION
ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION--PARTY FORMED--LEAVE SYDNEY FOR BRISBANE--PARTY
ENLARGED--OUTFIT AND STORES.
On my return to Moreton Bay, from an exploratory journey in the country
northward of that district, which had occupied me for two years, I found
that the subject of an overland expedition to Port Essington on the North
Coast of Australia, was occupying much attention, as well on the part of
the public as on that of the Legislative Council, which had earnestly
recommended the appropriation of a sum of money to the amount of 1000
pounds, for the equipment of an expedition under Sir Thomas Mitchell, to
accomplish this highly interesting object. Some delay was, however,
caused by the necessity of communicating with the Secretary of State for
the Colonies; and in the mean time it was understood that Captain Sturt
was preparing to start from Adelaide to proceed across the Continent.
From the experience which I had gained during my two years' journeyings,
both in surmounting the difficulties of travelling through a broken
mountainous country, and in enduring privations of every sort, "I was
inspired with the desire of attempting it," provided I could be assisted
in the expense that would necessarily be incurred for the outfit, and
could find a few companions who would be contented with animal food, and
willingly and patiently submit to the privation of flour, tea, and sugar,
and resign themselves to my guidance.
I had well considered this interesting subject in all its bearings, and
had discussed it with many of my acquaintances at Brisbane and its
neighbouring district; who were generally of opinion that it was
practicable, under the plan I had marked out: but with others,
particularly at Sydney, I had to contend against a strong but kindly
meant opposition to my journey. Some, who took more than a common
interest in my pursuits, regretted that I should leave so promising a
field of research as that which offered itself within the limits of New
South Wales, and in which they considered I had laboured with some
success during the last two years. Others considered the undertaking
exceedingly dangerous, and even the conception of it madness on my part;
and the consequence of a blind enthusiasm, nourished either by a deep
devotion to science, or by an unreasonable craving for fame: whilst
others did not feel themselves justified in assisting a man who they
considered was setting out with an intention of committing suicide. I was
not, however, blind as to the difficulties of the journey which I was
determined to undertake; on the contrary, and I hope my readers will
believe me to be sincere, I thought they would be many and great--greater
indeed than they eventually proved to be; but, during my recent
excursions through the Squatting districts, I had so accustomed myself to
a comparatively wild life, and had so closely observed the habits of the
aborigines, that I felt assured that the only real difficulties which I
could meet with would be of a local character. And I was satisfied that,
by cautiously proceeding, and always reconnoitring in advance or on
either side of our course, I should be able to conduct my party through a
grassy and well watered route; and, if I were so fortunate as to effect
this, I felt assured that the journey, once commenced, would be finished
only by our arrival at Port Essington. Buoyed up by this feeling, and by
confidence in myself, I prevailed against the solicitations and arguments
of my friends, and commenced my preparations, which, so far as my own
slender means and the contributions of kind friends allowed, were rather
hurriedly completed by the 13th August, 1844.
As our movements were to be comparatively in light marching order, our
preparations were confined more to such provisions and stores as were
actually necessary, than to anything else. But I had frequently reason to
regret that I was not better furnished with instruments, particularly
Barometers, or a boiling water apparatus, to ascertain the elevation of
the country and ranges we had to travel over. The only instruments which
I carried, were a Sextant and Artificial Horizon, a Chronometer, a hand
Kater's Compass, a small Thermometer, and Arrowsmith's Map of the
Continent of New Holland.
In arranging the plan of my journey I had limited my party to six
individuals; and although many young men volunteered their services, I
was obliged to decline their offers, and confine myself to the stated
number, as it was intimately connected with the principles and the means
on which I started.
On leaving Sydney, my companions consisted of Mr. James Calvert; Mr. John
Roper; John Murphy, a lad of about 16 years old: of William Phillips, a
prisoner of the Crown; and of "Harry Brown," an aboriginal of the
Newcastle tribe: making with myself six individuals.
We left Sydney, on the night of the 13th August, for Moreton Bay, in the
steamer "Sovereign," Captain Cape; and I have much pleasure in recording
and thankfully acknowledging the liberality and disinterested kindness of
the Hunter's River Steam Navigation Company, in allowing me a free
passage for my party with our luggage and thirteen horses. The passage
was unusually long, and, instead of arriving at Brisbane in three days,
we were at sea a week, so that my horses suffered much for food and
water, and became discouragingly poor. On arriving at Brisbane, we were
received with the greatest kindness by my friends the "Squatters," a
class principally composed of young men of good education, gentlemanly
habits, and high principles, and whose unbounded hospitality and friendly
assistance I had previously experienced during my former travels through
the district. These gentlemen and the inhabitants of Brisbane overloaded
me with kind contributions, much of which, however, to avoid any
unnecessary increase to my luggage, I found myself compelled to decline
or leave behind; so that I had to forego the advantage of many useful and
desirable articles, from their being too cumbersome for my limited means
of carriage, and therefore interfering with the arrangements for my
undertaking.
My means, however, had since my arrival been so much increased, that I
was after much reluctance prevailed upon to make one change,--to increase
my party; and the following persons were added to the expedition:--Mr.
Pemberton Hodgson, a resident of the district; Mr. Gilbert; Caleb, an
American negro; and "Charley," an aboriginal native of the Bathurst
tribe. Mr. Hodgson was so desirous of accompanying me that, in
consideration of former obligations, I could not refuse him, and, as he
was fond of Botanical pursuits, I thought he might be useful. Of Mr.
Gilbert I knew nothing; he was in the service of Mr. Gould, the talented
Zoologist who has added so much to our knowledge of the Fauna of
Australia, and expressed himself so anxious for an opportunity of making
important observations as to the limits of the habitat of the Eastern
Coast Birds, and also where those of the North Coast commence; as well as
of discovering forms new to Science during the progress of the journey,
that, from a desire to render all the service in my power to Natural
History, I found myself obliged to yield to his solicitations, although
for some time I was opposed to his wish. These gentlemen equipped
themselves, and added four horses and two bullocks to those already
provided.
Perhaps, of all the difficulties I afterwards encountered, none were of
so much real annoyance as those we experienced at first starting from
Brisbane. Much rain had fallen, which filled the creeks and set them
running, and made the road so boggy and soft as to render them almost
impassable. It took us the whole day to transport our party, cattle, and
provisions over the river, and the operation was not concluded before
sunset; but, as it was a fine moonlight night, I determined to start,
however short my first stage might be. Fortunately, my friends had lent
me a bullock dray to convey a portion of our stores as far as Darling
Downs; but, having purchased a light spring cart, it was also loaded;
and, flattering myself that we should proceed comfortably and rapidly, I
gave orders to march. After much continued difficulty in urging and
assisting our horses to drag the cart through the boggy road, we arrived,
at about one o'clock in the morning, at Cowper's Plains, about ten miles
from Brisbane.
I now found my cart an impediment to our movements; but, as it had been
an expensive article, I did not despair of its becoming more useful after
passing the boggy country. A few days afterwards, however, an accident
settled the question; the horses ran away with it, and thereby the shaft
was broken, and the spring injured, so that I was compelled to leave it;
which I then did most cheerfully, as it is always easier to man to yield
to necessity, than to adopt an apparently inconvenient measure by his own
free will. The load was removed to pack-horses, and we proceeded with
comparative ease to Mr. Campbell's station, enjoying the hospitality of
the settlers as we passed on, and carrying with us their best wishes.
I was fortunate in exchanging my broken cart for three good travelling
bullocks, and afterwards purchased five draft-bullocks, which we
commenced to break in for the pack-saddle; for I had by this time
satisfied myself that we could not depend upon the horses for carrying
our load. Neither my companions nor myself knew much about bullocks, and
it was a long time before we were reconciled to the dangerous vicinity of
their horns. By means, however, of iron nose-rings with ropes attached,
we obtained a tolerable command over their movements; and, at last, by
dint of habit, soon became familiar with, and even got attached to, our
blunt and often refractory COMPAGNONS DE VOYAGE.
By a present from Messieurs Campbell and Stephens of four young steers
and one old bullock, and of a fat bullock from Mr. Isaacs, our stock of
cattle consisted now of 16 head: of horses we had 17: and our party
consisted of ten individuals. Of provisions--we had 1200 lbs. of flour:
200 lbs. of sugar: 80 lbs. of tea: 20 lbs. of gelatine: and other
articles of less consideration, but adding much to our comfort during the
first few weeks of our journey. Of ammunition--we had about 30 pounds of
powder, and 8 bags of shot of different sizes, chiefly of No. 4 and No.
6. Every one, at my desire, had provided himself with two pair of strong
trowsers, three strong shirts, and two pair of shoes; and I may further
remark that some of us were provided with Ponchos, made of light strong
calico, saturated with oil, which proved very useful to us by keeping out
the wet, and made us independent of the weather; so that we were well
provided for seven months, which I was sanguine enough to think would be
a sufficient time for our journey. The result proved that our
calculations, as to the provisions, were very nearly correct; for even
our flour, much of which was destroyed by accident, lasted to the end of
May, the eighth month of our journey; but, as to the time it occupied, we
were very much deceived.
Our riding-saddles and pack-saddles were made of good materials, but they
were not fitted to the horses' backs, which caused a constant
inconvenience, and which would not have happened, had my means allowed me
to go to a greater expense. So long as we had spare horses, to allow
those with sore backs to recover, we did not suffer by it: but when we
were compelled to ride the same horses without intermission, it exposed
us to great misery and even danger, as well as the risk of losing our
provisions and stores. Our pack-saddles had consequently to be altered to
the dimensions of the bullocks; and, having to use the new ones for
breaking in, they were much injured, even before we left Mr. Campbell's
to commence our journey. The statements of what a bullock was able to
carry were very contradictory; but in putting 250 lbs. upon them the
animals were overloaded; and my experience has since shown me that they
cannot, continually day after day, carry more than 150 lbs. for any
distance. The difficulties which we met with for the first three weeks,
were indeed very trying:--the loading of bullocks and horses took
generally two hours; and the slightest accident, or the cargo getting
loose during the day's journey, frequently caused the bullocks to upset
their loads and break the straps, and gave us great trouble even in
catching them again:--at night, too, if we gave them the slightest
chance, they would invariably stray back to the previous camp; and we had
frequently to wait until noon before Charley and Brown, who generally
performed the office of herdsman in turns, recovered the ramblers. The
consequences were that we could proceed only very slowly, and that, for
several months, we had to keep a careful watch upon them throughout the
night. The horses, with some few exceptions, caused us less trouble at
the commencement of our journey than afterwards, when our hobbles were
worn out and lost, and, with the exception of one or two which in turns
were tethered in the neighbourhood of the camp in order to prevent the
others from straying, they were necessarily allowed to feed at large. It
may readily be imagined that my anxiety to secure our horses was very
great, because the loss of them would have put an immediate stop to my
undertaking.--But I hasten to enter on the narrative of our journey.
CHAPTER I
LEAVE THE LAST STATION--FOSSIL REMAINS--DARLING DOWNS--ENTER THE
WILDERNESS--WATERLOO PLAINS--THE CONDAMINE--HEAVY RAINS--CHARLEY'S
MISCONDUCT--MURPHY AND CALEB LOST--KENT'S LAGOON--COAL--MURPHY AND CALEB
FOUND AGAIN.
It was at the end of September, 1844, when we completed the necessary
preparations for our journey, and left the station of Messrs. Campbell
and Stephens, moving slowly towards the farthest point on which the white
man has established himself. We passed the stations of Messrs. Hughs and
Isaacs and of Mr. Coxen, and arrived on the 30th September, at Jimba,
[It is almost always written Fimba, in the Journal; but I have corrected
it to Jimba.--(ED.)] where we were to bid farewell to civilization.
These stations are established on creeks which come down from the western
slopes of the Coast Range--here extending in a north and south
direction--and meander through plains of more or less extent to join the
Condamine River; which--also rising in the Coast Range, where the latter
expands into the table-land of New England--sweeps round to the
northward, and, flowing parallel to the Coast Range, receives the whole
drainage from the country to the westward of the range. The Condamine
forms, for a great distance, the separation of the sandstone country to
the westward, from the rich basaltic plains to the eastward. These
plains, so famous for the richness of their pasture, and for the
excellency of the sheep and cattle depastured upon them, have become
equally remarkable as the depositaries of the remains of extinct species
of animals, several of which must have been of a gigantic size, being the
Marsupial representatives of the Pachydermal order of other continents.
Mr. Isaacs' station is particularly rich in these fossil remains; and
they have been likewise found in the beds and banks of Mr. Hodgson's and
of Mr. Campbell's Creeks, and also of Oaky Creek. At Isaacs' Creek, they
occur together with recent freshwater shells of species still living in
the neighbouring ponds, and with marly and calcareous concretions; which
induces me to suppose that these plains were covered with large sheets of
water, fed probably by calcareous springs connected with the basaltic
range, and that huge animals, fond of water, were living, either on the
rich herbage surrounding these ponds or lakes, or browsing upon the
leaves and branches of trees forming thick brushes on the slopes of the
neighbouring hills. The rise of the country, which is very generally
supposed to have taken place, was probably the cause of the disappearance
of the water, and of the animals becoming extinct, when its necessary
supply ceased to exist. Similar remains have been found in Wellington
Valley, and in the Port Phillip District, where, probably, similar
changes have taken place.
The elevation of Darling Downs--about 1800 to 2000 feet, according to the
barometrical observations of Mr. Cunningham--renders the climate much
cooler than its latitude would lead one to suppose; indeed, ice has
frequently been found, during the calm clear nights of winter. During
September and October, we observed at sunrise an almost perfect calm.
About nine o'clock, light westerly winds set in, which increased towards
noon, died away towards evening, and after sunset, were succeeded by
light easterly breezes; thunder-storms rose from south and south-west,
and passed over with a violent gust of wind and heavy showers of rain;
frequently, in half an hour's time, the sky was entirely clear again;
sometimes, however, the night and following day were cloudy.
The plains, as we passed, were covered with the most luxuriant grass and
herbage. Plants of the leguminosae and compositae, were by far the most
prevalent; the colour of the former, generally a showy red, that of the
latter, a bright yellow. Belts of open forest land, principally composed
of the Box-tree of the Colonists (a species of Eucalyptus), separate the
different plains; and patches of scrub, consisting of several species of
Acacias, and of a variety of small trees, appear to be the outposts of
the extensive scrubs of the interior. There are particularly three
species of Acacias, which bestow a peculiar character on these scrubs:
the one is the Myal (A. pendula)--first seen by Oxley on Liverpool
Plains, and afterwards at the Barwan, and which exists in all the western
plains between the Barwan and Darling Downs--whose drooping foliage and
rich yellow blossoms render it extremely elegant and ornamental. The
second, the Acacia of Coxen, resembles the Myal (without its drooping
character), its narrow lanceolate phyllodia rather stiff, its yellowish
branches erect. The third, is the Bricklow Acacia, which seems to be
identical with the Rose-wood Acacia of Moreton Bay; the latter, however,
is a fine tree, 50 to 60 feet high, whereas the former is either a small
tree or a shrub. I could not satisfactorily ascertain the origin of the
word Bricklow [Brigaloe, GOULD.], but, as it is well understood and
generally adopted by all the squatters between the Severn River and
the Boyne, I shall make use of the name. Its long, slightly falcate
leaves, being of a silvery green colour, give a peculiar character to
the forest, where the tree abounds.
Oct. 1.--After having repaired some harness, which had been broken by our
refractory bullocks upsetting their loads, and after my companions had
completed their arrangements, in which Mr. Bell kindly assisted, we left
Jimba, and launched, buoyant with hope, into the wilderness of Australia.
Many a man's heart would have thrilled like our own, had he seen us
winding our way round the first rise beyond the station, with a full
chorus of "God Save the Queen," which has inspired many a British
soldier,--aye, and many a Prussian too--with courage in the time of
danger. Scarcely a mile from Jimba we crossed Jimba Creek, and travelled
over Waterloo Plains, in a N. W. direction, about eight miles, where we
made our first camp at a chain of ponds. Isolated cones and ridges were
seen to the N. E., and Craig Range to the eastward: the plains were
without trees, richly grassed, of a black soil with frequent concretions
of a marly and calcareous nature. Charley gave a proof of his wonderful
power of sight, by finding every strap of a pack-saddle, that had been
broken, in the high grass of Waterloo Plains.
Oct. 2.--Bullocks astray, but found at last by Charley; and a start
attempted at 1 o'clock; the greater part of the bullocks with sore backs:
the native tobacco in blossom. One of the bullocks broke his pack-saddle,
and compelled us to halt.
Oct. 3.--Rise at five o'clock, and start at half-past nine; small plains
alternate with a flat forest country, slightly timbered; melon-holes;
marly concretions, a stiff clayey soil, beautifully grassed: the
prevailing timber trees are Bastard box, the Moreton Bay ash, and the
Flooded Gum. After travelling seven miles, in a north-west direction, we
came on a dense Myal scrub, skirted by a chain of shallow water-holes.
The scrub trending towards, and disappearing in, the S. W.: the Loranthus
and the Myal in immense bushes; Casuarina frequent. In the forest,
Ranunculus inundatus; Eryngium with terete simple leaves, of which the
horses are fond; Prasophyllum elatum, sweetly scented. A new composite
with white blossoms, the rays narrow and numerous. Sky clear; cumuli to
the S. W.; wind from the westward. Ridges visible to the N.N.E. and N.E.
At the outskirts of the scrub, the short-tailed sleeping lizard with
knobby scales was frequent: one of them contained six eggs. We camped
outside of the scrub, surrounded by small tufts of the Bricklow Acacia.
Droves of kangaroos entered the scrub; their foot-paths crossed the
forest in every direction.
The thermometer, before and at sunrise, 32 degrees; so cold that I could
not work with my knife, away from the fire. At sunset, a thick gathering
of clouds to the westward.
Oct. 4.--Cloudy sky; thermometer 50 degrees at sunrise; little dew; 64
degrees at eight o'clock.
We travelled about eleven miles in a S. W. and S. S. W. direction,
skirting the scrub. During the journey, two thunder-storms passed over;
one to the southward beyond the Condamine, the other to the north and
north-east over the mountains. The scrub is a dense mass of vegetation,
with a well defined outline--a dark body of foliage, without grass, with
many broken branches and trees; no traces of water, or of a rush of
waters. More to the southward, the outline of the scrub becomes less
defined, and small patches are seen here and there in the forest. The
forest is open and well timbered; but the trees are rather small. A chain
of lagoons from E. by N.--W. by S.; large flooded gum-trees (but no
casuarinas) at the low banks of the lagoons. The presence of many
fresh-water muscles (Unio) shows that the water is constant, at least in
ordinary seasons.
The scrub opens more and more; a beautiful country with Bricklow groves,
and a white Vitex in full blossom. The flats most richly adorned by
flowers of a great variety of colours: the yellow Senecios, scarlet
Vetches, the large Xeranthemums, several species of Gnaphalium, white
Anthemis-like compositae: the soil is a stiff clay with concretions:
melon-holes with rushes; the lagoons with reeds.
At night, a thunder-storm from south-west. Our dogs caught a female
kangaroo with a young one in its pouch, and a kangaroo rat.
Oct. 5.--We followed the chain of lagoons for about seven miles, in a
west by south direction; the country to our right was most beautiful,
presenting detached Bricklow groves, with the Myal, and with the Vitex in
full bloom, surrounded by lawns of the richest grass and herbage; the
partridge pigeon (Geophaps scripta) abounded in the Acacia groves; the
note of the Wonga Wonga (Leucosarcia picata, GOULD.) was heard; and ducks
and two pelicans were seen on the lagoons. Blackfellows had been here a
short time ago: large unio shells were abundant; the bones of the
codfish, and the shield of the fresh-water turtle, showed that they did
not want food. A small orange tree, about 5-8 minutes high, grows either
socially or scattered in the open scrub, and a leafless shrub, belonging
to the Santalaceae, grows in oblong detached low thickets.
Chenopodiaceous plants are always frequent where the Myal grows. The
latitude of our camp was 26 degrees 56 minutes 11 seconds.
Oct. 6.--Was fully occupied with mending our packsaddles and straps,
broken by the bullocks in throwing off their loads.
Oct. 7.--In following the chain of lagoons to the westward, we came,
after a few miles travelling, to the Condamine, which flows to the
north-west: it has a broad, very irregular bed, and was, at the time,
well provided with water--a sluggish stream, of a yellowish muddy colour,
occasionally accompanied by reeds. We passed several gullies and a creek
from the northward, slightly running.
The forest on the right side of the river was tolerably open, though
patches of Myal scrub several times exposed us to great inconvenience;
the left bank of the Condamine, as much as we could see of it, was a fine
well grassed open forest. Conglomerate and sandstone cropped out in
several sections. Mosquitoes and sandflies were very trouble-some. I
found a species of snail nearly resembling Succinea, in the fissures of
the bark of the Myal, on the Box, and in the moist grass. The
muscle-shells are of immense size. The well-known tracks of Blackfellows
are everywhere visible; such as trees recently stripped of their bark,
the swellings of the apple-tree cut off to make vessels for carrying
water, honey cut out, and fresh steps cut in the trees to climb for
opossums. Our latitude was 26 degrees 49 minutes. The thermometer was
41 1/2 at sunrise; but in the shade, between 12 and 2 o'clock, it stood at
80 degrees, and the heat was very great, though a gentle breeze and
passing clouds mitigated the power of the scorching sun.
Oct. 8.--During the night, we had a tremendous thunder-storm, with much
thunder and lightning from the west. The river was very winding, so that
we did not advance more than 7 or 8 miles W.N.W.; the Bricklow scrub
compelled us frequently to travel upon the flood-bed of the river. Fine
grassy forest-land intervened between the Bricklow and Myal scrubs; the
latter is always more open than the former, and the soil is of a rich
black concretionary character. The soil of the Bricklow scrub is a stiff
clay, washed out by the rains into shallow holes, well known by the
squatters under the name of melon-holes; the composing rock of the low
ridges was a clayey sandstone (Psammite). Sky cloudy; wind north-east;
thermometer 80 degrees at 2 o'clock; the sunshine plant (Mimosa
terminalis) was frequent on the black soil; a Swainsonia; an Anthericum,
with allium leaf and fine large yellow blossoms; and another species with
small blossoms, (Stypandra).
Oct. 9.--Commenced with cloudy weather, threatening rain. It cleared up,
however, about 10 o'clock, and we had a very warm day. We followed the
course of the river for some time, which is fringed with Myal scrubs,
separated by hills with fine open forest. Finding that the river trended
so considerably to the northward [It seems that NORTHWARD here is merely
miswritten for WESTWARD.--(ED.)], we left it at a westerly bend, hoping
to make it again in a north-west direction. Thus, we continued travelling
through a beautiful undulating country, until arrested by a Bricklow
scrub, which turned us to the south-west; after having skirted it, we
were enabled to resume our course to W.N.W., until the decline of day
made me look for water to the south-west. The scrubs were awful, and
threatened to surround us; but we succeeded in finding a fine large
lagoon, probably filled by the drainage of the almost level country to
the north-east. No water-course, not the slightest channel produced by
heavy rains, was visible to indicate the flow of waters. Occasionally we
met with swampy ground, covered with reeds, and with some standing water
of the last rains; the ground was so rotten, that the horses and bullocks
sunk into it over the fetlocks. The principal timber trees here, are the
bastard box, the flooded-gum, and the Moreton Bay ash; in the Myal scrub,
Coxen's Acacia attains a very considerable size; we saw also some
Ironbark trees.
The tracks and dung of cattle were observed; and this was the farthest
point to the westward where we met with them. Kangaroos seemed to be very
rare; but kangaroo rats were numerous. Black-fellows were very near to us
last night; they very probably withdrew upon seeing us make our
appearance.
Oct. 10.--Cloudy; wind northerly; thermometer at 2h. 30m. P. M. 88
degrees. At about 1 1/2 or 2 miles distance, in a north-west direction
from our last camp, we came to a fine running creek from the north-east,
which we easily crossed; and, at about one mile farther, reached a
creek--which, at this time of the year, is a chain of lagoons--lined on
both sides by Bricklow scrub, which occupied a portion of its limited
flats in little points and detached groves. This vale was one of the most
picturesque spots we had yet seen. An Ironbark tree, with greyish
fissured bark and pale-green foliage, grows here, and Sterculia
heterophylla is pretty frequent amongst the box and flooded-gum, on the
rising ground between the two creeks. Farther on, the country opened, the
scrub receded; Ironbark ridges here and there, with spotted gum, with
dog-wood (Jacksonia) on a sandy soil, covered with flint pebbles,
diversified the sameness. The grass was beautiful, but the tufts distant;
the Ironbark forest was sometimes interspersed with clusters of Acacias;
sometimes the Ironbark trees were small and formed thickets. Towards the
end of the stage, the country became again entirely flat, without any
indication of drainage, and we were in manifest danger of being without
water. At last, a solitary lagoon was discovered, about 30 yards in
diameter, of little depth, but with one large flooded gum-tree, marked,
by a piece of bark stripped off, as the former resting-place of a native;
the forest oak is abundant. Here I first met with Hakea lorea, R. Br.,
with long terete drooping leaves, every leaf one and a-half to two feet
long--a small tree 18--24 minutes high--and with Grevillea mimosoides, R.
Br., also a small tree, with very long riband-like leaves of a silvery
grey. We did not see any kangaroos, but got a kangaroo rat and a
bandicoot.
Oct. 11.--Travelling north-west we came to a Cypress-pine thicket, which
formed the outside of a Bricklow scrub. This scrub was, at first,
unusually open, and I thought that it would be of little extent; I was,
however, very much mistaken: the Bricklow Acacia, Casuarinas and a
stunted tea-tree, formed so impervious a thicket, that the bullocks, in
forcing their way through it, tore the flour-bags, upset their loads,
broke their straps, and severely tried the patience of my companions, who
were almost continually occupied with reloading one or other of the
restless brutes. Having travelled five miles into it, and finding no
prospect of its termination, I resolved upon returning to our last camp,
which, however, I was not enabled to effect, without experiencing great
difficulty, delay, and loss; and it was not until the expiration of two
days, that we retraced our steps, and reached the lagoon which we had
left on the 11th. We had lost about 143 pounds of flour; Mr. Gilbert lost
his tent, and injured the stock of his gun. The same night, rain set in,
which lasted the whole of the next day: it came in heavy showers, with
thunder-storms, from the north and north-west, and rendered the ground
extremely boggy, and made us apprehensive of being inundated, for the
lagoon was rapidly rising: our tent was a perfect puddle, and the horses
and cattle were scarcely able to walk.
Within the scrub there was a slight elevation, in which sandstone cropped
out: it was covered with cypress-pine, and an Acacia, different from the
Bricklow. The Bottle-tree (Sterculia, remarkable for an enlargement of
the stem, about three feet above the ground,) was observed within the
scrub: the white Vitex (?) and Geigera, SCHOTT., a small tree, with
aromatic linear-lanceolate leaves, grew at its outside, and in small
groves scattered through the open forest. Fusanus, a small tree with
pinnate leaves, and Buttneria, a small shrub, were also found in these
groves.
Many pigeons were seen; the black cockatoo of Leach (Calyptorhynchus
Leachii) was shot; we passed several nests of the brush-turkey (Talegalla
Lathami, GOULD). Charley got a probably new species of bandicoot, with
longer ears than the common one, and with white paws. We distinguished,
during the rain, three different frogs, which made a very inharmonious
concert. The succinea-like shells were very abundant in the moist grass;
and a limnaea in the lagoon seemed to me to be a species different from
those I had observed in the Moreton Bay district, The thermometer at
sunset 62 degrees (in the water 68 degrees); at sunrise 52 degrees (in
the water 62 degrees).
On the 15th October, the wind changed during the afternoon to the
westward, and cleared the sky, and dried the ground very rapidly.
Oct. 17.--The ground was too heavy and boggy to permit us to start
yesterday; besides, three horses were absent, and could not be found.
Last night, Mr. Roper brought in three ducks and a pigeon, and was
joyfully welcomed by all hands. Charley had been insolent several times,
when I sent him out after the cattle, and, this morning, he even
threatened to shoot Mr. Gilbert. I immediately dismissed him from our
service, and took from him all the things which he held on condition of
stopping with us. The wind continued from the west and south-west.
Oct. 18.--Towards evening Charley came and begged my pardon. I told him
that he had particularly offended Mr. Gilbert, and that I could not think
of allowing him to stay, if Mr. Gilbert had the slightest objection to
it: he, therefore, addressed himself to Mr. Gilbert, and, with his
consent, Charley entered again into our service. John Murphy and Caleb,
the American negro, went to a creek, which Mr. Hodgson had first seen,
when out on a RECONNOISSANCE to the northward, in order to get some game.
John had been there twice before, and it was not four miles distant:
they, however, did not return, and, at nine o'clock at night, we heard
firing to the north-east. We answered by a similar signal, but they did
not come in. I sent Mr. Hodgson and Charley to bring them back. If they
had simply given the bridle to their horses, they would have brought them
back without delay; but probably both got bewildered.
The latitude of this lagoon, which I called Kent's Lagoon, after F. Kent,
Esq., is 26 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds. We tried to obtain opossums,
during the clear moonlight night, but only caught the common rabbit-rat.
Our horses go right into the scrub, to get rid of the little flies, which
torment them. The weather is very fair; the regular westerly breeze,
during the day, is setting in again: the dew is very abundant during
clear nights: the morning very cold; the water of the lagoon 8 degrees to
10 degrees warmer than the air.
We have regularly balanced our loads, and made up every bag of flour to
the weight of 120 pounds: of these we have eight, which are to be carried
by four bullocks. The chocolate and the gelatine are very acceptable at
present, as so little animal food can be obtained. The country continues
to be extremely boggy, though the weather has been fine, with high winds,
for the last four days. Tracks of Blackfellows have been seen; but they
appear rare and scattered in this part of the country. Though we meet
with no game, tracks of kangaroos are very numerous, and they frequently
indicate animals of great size. Emus have been seen twice.
Thermometer at sunset 65 degrees 7 minutes (75 degrees in the water); at
a quarter past one, 90 degrees. South-westerly winds.
Oct. 19.--During the night, north-easterly breeze; at the break of day, a
perfect calm; after sunset easterly winds again. Thermometer at sunrise
51 degrees (60 degrees in the water); a cloudless sky. Mr. Hodgson and
Charley, whom I had sent to seek John and Caleb, returned to the camp
with a kangaroo. I sent them immediately off again, with Mr. Roper, to
find the two unfortunate people, whose absence gave me the greatest
anxiety. Mr. Roper and Mr. Gilbert had brought one pigeon and one duck,
as a day's sport; which, with the kangaroo, gave us a good and desirable
supper of animal food. During the evening and the night, a short
bellowing noise was heard, made probably by kangaroos, of which Mr.
Gilbert stated he had seen specimens standing nine feet high. Brown
brought a carpet snake, and a brown snake with yellow belly. The flies
become very numerous, but the mosquitoes are very rare.
On a botanical excursion I found a new Loranthus, with flat linear
leaves, on Casuarina, a new species of Scaevola, Buttneria, and three
species of Solanum. Mr. Hodgson brought a shrubby Goodenia; another
species with linear leaves, and with very small yellow blossoms, growing
on moist places in the forest; two shrubby Compositae; three different
species of Dodonaea, entering into fruit; and a Stenochilus, R. Br. with
red blossoms, the most common little shrub of the forest.
Mr. Gilbert brought me a piece of coal from the crossing place of the
creek of the 10th October. It belongs probably to the same layer which is
found at Flagstone Creek, on Mr. Leslie's station, on Darling Downs. We
find coal at the eastern side of the Coast Range, from Illawarra up to
Wide Bay, with sandstone; and it seems that it likewise extends to the
westward of the Coast Range, being found, to my knowledge, at Liverpool
Plains, at Darling Downs, and at Charley's Creek, of the 10th Oct. It is
here, as well as at the east side, connected with sandstone. Flint
pebbles, of a red colour, were very abundant at Charley's Creek, and in
the scrub, which I called the Flourspill, as it had made such a heavy
inroad into our flour-bags. The flat on which we encamp, is composed of a
mild clay, which rapidly absorbs the rain and changes into mud; a layer
of stiff clay is about one foot below the surface. The grasses are at
present in full ear, and often four feet high; but the tufts are distant,
very different from the dense sward at the other side of the Range. As we
left the Myal country of the Condamine, we left also its herbage,
abounding in composite, leguminous, and chenopodiaceous plants, with a
great variety of grasses.
Oct. 20.--This morning, at half-past nine o'clock, Messrs. Roper,
Hodgson, and Charley, returned with John Murphy and Caleb. They had
strayed about twelve miles from the camp, and had fairly lost themselves.
Their trackers had to ride over seventy miles, before they came up to
them, and they would certainly have perished, had not Charley been able
to track them: it was indeed a providential circumstance that he had not
left us. According to their statement, the country is very open, with a
fine large creek, which flows down to the Condamine; this is the creek
which we passed on the 10th Oct., and which I called "Charley's Creek."
The creek first seen by Mr. Hodgson joins this, and we are consequently
still on westerly waters.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 54 degrees (in the water 64 degrees); at eight
o'clock 64 degrees. Strong easterly and northerly winds during the last
two nights. It becomes calm at a quarter past three, with the rise of
Venus.
Mr. Calvert brought an edible mushroom out of Flourspill Scrub.
The Loranthus of the Myal grows also on other Acacias with glaucous
leaves. A bright yellow everlasting is very fine and frequent.
Oct. 22.--I left Kent's lagoon yesterday. In order to skirt the scrub, I
had to keep to the north-east, which direction brought me, after about
three miles travelling through open forest, to Mr. Hodgson's creek, at
which John Murphy and Caleb had been lost. The creek here consists of a
close chain of fine rocky water-holes; the rock is principally clay,
resembling very much a decomposed igneous rock, but full of nodules and
veins of iron-stone. I now turned to the northward, and encamped at the
upper part of the creek. To-day I took my old course to the north-west,
and passed a scrubby Ironbark forest, and flat openly-timbered forest
land. I came again, however, to a Bricklow scrub, which I skirted, and
after having crossed a very dense scrubby Ironbark forest, came to a
chain of rushy water-holes, with the fall of the waters to the
north-east. The whole drainage of a north-easterly basin, seems to have
its outlet, through Charley's Creek, into the Condamine.
On the banks of Hodgson's Creek, grows a species of Dampiera, with many
blue flowers, which deserves the name of "D. floribunda;" here also were
Leptospermum; Persoonia with lanceolate pubescent leaf; Jacksonia
(Dogwood); the cypress-pine with a light amber-coloured resin (Charley
brought me fine claret-coloured resin, and I should not be surprised to
find that it belongs to a different species of Callitris); an Acacia with
glaucous lanceolate one-inch-long phyllodia; and a Daviesia; another
Acacia with glaucous bipinnate leaves; a white Scaevola, Anthericum, and
a little Sida, with very showy blossoms. Spotted-gum and Ironbark formed
the forest; farther on, flooded-gum.
Pigeons, mutton-birds (Struthidia), are frequent, and provided us with
several messes; iguanas are considered great delicacies; several black
kangaroos were scen to day.
The weather very fine, but hot; the wind westerly; thermometer at sunset
74 degrees (84 degrees in the water.)
Oct. 23.--At the commencement of last night, westerly winds, the sky
clear; at the setting of the moon (about 3 o'clock a.m.), the wind
changed to the north-east; scuddy clouds passing rapidly from that
quarter; at sunrise it clears a little, but the whole morning cloudy, and
fine travelling weather.
We travelled in a north-westerly direction, through a Casuarina thicket,
but soon entered again into fine open Ironbark forest, with occasionally
closer underwood; leaving a Bricklow scrub to our right, we came to a dry
creek with a deep channel; which I called "Acacia Creek," from the
abundance of several species of Acacia. Not a mile farther we came on a
second creek, with running water, which, from the number of Dogwood
shrubs (Jacksonia), in the full glory of their golden blossoms. I called
"Dogwood Creek." The creek came from north and north-east and flowed to
the south-west, to join the Condamine. The rock of Dogwood Creek is a
fine grained porous Psammite (clayey sandstone), with veins and nodules
of iron, like that of Hodgson's creek. A new gum-tree, with a
rusty-coloured scaly bark, the texture of which, as well as the
seed-vessel and the leaf, resembled bloodwood, but specifically
different; the apple-tree (Angophora lanceolata); the flooded-gum; a
Hakea with red blossoms; Zierea; Dodonaea; a crassulaceous plant with
handsome pink flowers; a new myrtaceous tree of irregular stunted growth,
about 30 feet high, with linear leaves, similar to those of the rosemary;
a stiff grass, peculiar to sandstone regions; and a fine Brunonia, with
its chaste blue blossoms, adorn the flats of the creek as well as the
forest land. The country is at present well provided with water and
grass, though the scattered tufts of Anthistiria, and the first
appearance of the small grass-tree (Xanthorrhaea), render its constancy
very doubtful. The winding narrow-leaved Kennedyas, Gnaphaliums in
abundance; Aotus in low bushes.
No game, except a kangaroo rat, pigeons, ducks, and mutton-birds. Mr.
Phillips brought a crawfish from the creek: it had just thrown off its
old shell. Fresh-water muscles plentiful, though not of the size of those
of the Condamine. A small rat was caught this morning amongst our flour
bags; it had no white tip at the tail, nor is the tail so bushy as that
of the rabbit-rat: probably it was a young animal.
Oct. 24.--The creek being boggy, we had to follow it down for several
miles to find a crossing place. Even here, one of the horses which
carried the tea, fell back into the water, whilst endeavouring to
scramble up the opposite bank, and drenched its valuable load. We now
travelled through a country full of lagoons, and chains of water-holes,
and passed through several patches of cypress-pine, until we came to
another creek with rocky water-holes, with the fall to the eastward,
probably joining Dogwood Creek, from which we were not four miles
distant. Fine grassy flats accompanied the creek on its left, whilst a
cypress-pine forest grew on its right bank. The latitude of our
yesterday's camp was 26 degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds and, to-day, we are
only four miles more to the westward. The country is still so flat and so
completely wooded--sometimes with scrubs, thickets, Acacia, and Vitex
groves, sometimes with open Ironbark forest intermingled with spotted
gum--that no view of distant objects can be obtained. Several
Epacridaceous shrubs and species of Bossiaea and Daviesia reminded me of
the flora of the more southern districts.
Oct. 25.--We travelled about twelve miles in a north-westerly direction,
our latitude being 26 degrees 15 minutes 46 seconds. The country in
general scrubby, with occasional reaches of open forest land. The
rosemary-leaved tree of the 23rd was very abundant. An Acacia with spiny
phyllodia, the lower half attached to the stem, the upper bent off in the
form of an open hook, had been observed by me on the sandstone ridges of
Liverpool Plains: and the tout ensemble reminded me forcibly of that
locality. The cypress-pine, several species of Melaleuca, and a fine
Ironbark, with broad lanceolate, but not cordate, glaucous leaves, and
very dark bark, formed the forest. An arborescent Acacia, in dense
thickets, intercepted our course several times. Bronze-winged pigeons
were very numerous, but exceedingly shy.
The stillness of the moonlight night is not interrupted by the screeching
of opossums and flying squirrels, nor by the monotonous note of the
barking-bird and little owlet; no native dog is howling round our camp in
the chilly morning: the cricket alone chirps along the water-holes; and
the musical note of an unknown bird, sounding like "gluck gluck"
frequently repeated, and ending in a shake, and the melancholy wail of
the curlew, are heard from the neighbouring scrub.
Oct. 26.--Our journey was resumed: wind in the morning from the west;
light clouds passing rapidly from that quarter.
Messrs. Hodgson and Roper, following the chain of ponds on which we had
encamped, came to a large creek, with high rocky banks and a broad stream
flowing to the south-west. We passed an Acacia scrub, and stretches of
fine open Ironbark forest, interspersed with thickets of an aborescent
species of Acacia, for about four miles in a north-west course, when we
found ourselves on the margin of a considerable valley full of Bricklow
scrub; we were on flat-topped ridges, about 80 to 100 feet above the
level of the valley. After several attempts to cross, we had to turn to
the N. N. E. and east, in order to head it, travelling through a most
beautiful open Ironbark forest, with the grass in full seed, from three
to four feet high. Following a hollow, in which the fall of the country
was indicated by the grass bent by the run of water after heavy showers
of rain, we came to fine water-holes, about five miles from our last
camp.
At the other side of the valley, we saw distant ranges to the north-west
and northward. The scrub was occasionally more open, and fine large
bottle-trees (Sterculia) were frequent: the young wood of which,
containing a great quantity of starch between its woody fibres, was
frequently chewed by our party. Fusanus was abundant and in full bearing;
its fruit (of the size of a small apple), when entirely ripe and dropped
from the tree, furnished a very agreeable repast: the rind, however,
which surrounds its large rough kernel, is very thin.
Oct. 27.--During last night a very strong, cold, westerly wind.
After travelling about 3 1/2 miles north, we were stopped by a Bricklow
scrub, which compelled us to go to the east and south-east. I encamped,
about three miles north-east by north from my last resting place, and
examined the scrub: it was out of the question to cross it. Mr. Gilbert
shot three black cockatoos and a bronze-winged pigeon.
Oct. 28.--During the night it was very cold, though no wind was stirring.
In the morning we experienced an easterly breeze. Travelling to the
eastward and east by south, I found that the water-holes outside of the
scrub at which we were encamped, changed into a creek with rocky bed,
having its banks partly covered with cypress-pine thickets. I crossed it
about three miles lower down, and, finding the Ironbark forest
sufficiently open, turned to the northward; scarcely three miles farther,
we came to another creek of a character similar to that of the last,
which I suppose to be one of the heads of Dogwood Creek. The blue
Brunonia was again frequent; the grass five feet high, in full ear, and
waving like a rye field. The soil, however, is sandy and rotten, and the
grass in isolated tufts. We encamped about four miles north-east from our
last camp.
CHAPTER II
PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB--MEET FRIENDLY
NATIVES--NATIVE TOMB--THE DAWSON--VERVAIN PLAINS--GILBERT'S RANGE--LYND'S
RANGE--ROBINSON'S CREEK--MURPHY'S LAKE--MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY--EXPEDITION
RANGE--MOUNT NICHOLSON--ALDIS'S PEAK--THE BOYD.
Nov. 3.--For the past week, the heat was very oppressive during the day,
whilst, at night, it was often exceedingly cold; for two or three hours
before dawn, and for an hour after sunset, it was generally delightful,
particularly within the influence of a cheerful cypress-pine fire, which
perfumes the air with the sweet scent of the burning resin.
It had now become painfully evident to me that I had been too sanguine in
my calculations, as to our finding a sufficiency of game to furnish my
party with animal food, and that the want of it was impairing our
strength. We had also been compelled to use our flour to a greater extent
than I wished; and I saw clearly that my party, which I had reluctantly
increased on my arrival at Moreton Bay, was too large for our provisions.
I, therefore, communicated to my companions the absolute necessity of
reducing our number: all, however, appeared equally desirous to continue
the journey; and it was, therefore, but just that those who had joined
last, should leave. Mr. Gilbert, however, who would, under this
arrangement, have had to retire, found a substitute in Mr. Hodgson, who
had perhaps suffered most by additional fatigues; so that he and Caleb,
the American negro, prepared for their return to Moreton Bay. Previous,
however, to their departure, they assisted in killing one of our steers,
the meat of which we cut into thin slices, and dried in the sun. This,
our first experiment--on the favourable result of which the success of
our expedition entirely depended--kept us, during the process, in a state
of great excitement. It succeeded, however, to our great joy, and
inspired us with confidence for the future. The little steer gave us
65lbs. of dried meat, and about 15lbs. of fat. The operation concluded,
we took leave of our companions; and although our material was reduced by
the two horses on which they returned, Mr. Hodgson left us the greater
part of his own equipment. The loss of the two horses caused us some
little inconvenience, as it increased the loads of the animals. The daily
ration of the party was now fixed at six pounds of flour per day, with
three pounds of dried beef, which we found perfectly sufficient to keep
up our strength.
Whenever it was necessary to delay for any time at one place, our cattle
and horses gave us great trouble: they would continually stray back in
the direction we came from, and we had frequently to fetch them back
five, seven, and even ten miles. Mr. Hodgson's horses had returned even
to the camp of the 21st October, and three days were required to find
them and bring them back. These matters caused us considerable delay; but
they were irremediable. On the 30th October, towards evening, we were
hailed by natives, from the scrub; but, with the exception of one, they
kept out of sight. This man knew a few English words, and spoke the
language of Darling Downs; he seemed to be familiar with the country
round Jimba; and asked permission to come to the camp: this, however, I
did not permit; and they entered the scrub, when they saw us handle our
guns, and bring forward two horses to the camp. On the 3rd of November
they visited us again, and communicated with us, behaving in a very
friendly way: they pointed out honey in one of the neighbouring trees,
assisted in cutting it out and eating it, and asked for tobacco; it was,
however, impossible to make any presents, as we had nothing to spare.
They particularly admired the red blankets, were terror-struck at the
sight of a large sword, which they tremblingly begged might be returned
into the sheath, and wondered at the ticking of a watch, and at the
movement of its wheels. The greater part were young men of mild
disposition, and pleasing countenance; the children remained in the
distance, and I only saw two women.
According to their statements, the scrub extends to the Condamine.
The scrub was crossed in every direction by tracks of wallabies, of
which, however, we could not even get a sight. The glucking bird--by
which name, in consequence of its note, the bird may be
distinguished--was heard through the night. They live probably upon the
seeds of the cypress-pine; the female answers the loud call of the male,
but in a more subdued voice.
A Gristes, about seven inches long, resembling the one described in Sir
Thomas Mitchell's journey, but specifically different from it, was caught
in the water-holes of the creek, which I called "Dried-beef Creek," in
memorial of our late occupation.
A Goodenoviaceous shrub, a pink Hibiscus, and a fine prostrate Sida, were
found between the camp of the 27th October and Dried-beef Creek.
Nov. 4.--Having previously examined and found a passage through the
scrub, we travelled through it for about eight miles on a north by west
course. The head of Dried-beef Creek, was found to be formed by separate
water-holes, in a slight hollow along the scrub; and, when these
disappeared, we were moving over a perfectly level land, without any sign
of drainage, but occasionally passing isolated holes, now for the greater
part dry. On our left, our course was bounded by a dense Bricklow scrub;
but, on our right, for the first four miles, the country was
comparatively open, with scattered Acacias; it then became densely
timbered, but free from scrub. Farther on, however, scrub appeared even
to our right. A natural opening, which had recently been enlarged by a
bush fire, enabled us to pass into a dense Ironbark and cypress-pine
forest; and then, bearing a little to the right, we came on a slight
watercourse to the northward, which rapidly enlarged as it descended
between ranges, which seemed to be the spurs of the table land we had
just left.
Nov. 5.--We observed the tomb of a native near our camp. It was a simple
conical heap of sand, which had been raised over the body, which was
probably bent into the squatting position of the natives; but, as our
object was to pass quietly, without giving offence to the aborigines, we
did not disturb it. It is, however, remarkable that, throughout our whole
journey, we never met with graves or tombs, or even any remains of
Blackfellows again; with the exception of a skull, which I shall notice
at a later period. Several isolated conical hills were in the vicinity of
our camp; sandstone cropped out in the creek, furnishing us with good
whetstones.
After travelling about four miles in a north-west direction, through a
fine open undulating country, we came to, and followed the course of, a
considerable creek flowing to the westward, bounded by extensive flooded
gum-flats and ridges, clothed with a forest of silver-leaved Ironbark.
Large reedy lagoons, well supplied with fish, were in its bed. Our
latitude was 26 degrees 4 minutes 9 seconds.
Nov. 6.--The arrangement for loading our cattle enabled me at last to
mount every one of my companions, which was very desirable; for the
summer having fairly set in, and no thunder-storms having cooled the
atmosphere since we left the Condamine, the fatigue of walking during the
middle of the day had become very severe. From Jimba we started with a
few horses without load, which only enabled us to ride alternately; but,
as our provisions gradually decreased in quantity, one after the other
mounted his horse; and this day I had the pleasure of seeing everybody on
horseback.
We travelled along the valley of the river about ten miles, in a
west-northerly course; our latitude of this day being 26 degrees 3
minutes 44 seconds Fine box and apple-tree flats were on both sides of
the creek, now deserving the appellation of a "River," and which I called
the "Dawson," in acknowledgment of the kind support I received from R.
Dawson, Esq., of Black Creek, Hunter's River. At the foot of the ridges
some fine lagoons were observed, as also several plains, with the soil
and the vegetation of the Downs, but bounded on the northward by
impenetrable Bricklow scrub. In a watercourse, meandering through this
scrub, sandstone cropped out, in which impressions of fossil plants were
noticed by me. It was interesting to observe how strictly the scrub kept
to the sandstone and to the stiff loam lying upon it, whilst the mild
black whinstone soil was without trees, but covered with luxuriant
grasses and herbs; and this fact struck me as remarkable, because, during
my travels in the Bunya country of Moreton Bay, I found it to be exactly
the reverse: the sandstone spurs of the range being there covered with an
open well grassed forest, whilst a dense vine brush extended over the
basaltic rock. The phenomenon is probably to be explained by the
capability of the different soils of retaining moisture, and, at the same
time, by taking into account the distance of the localities from the
seacoast. I called these plains "Calvert's Plains," after my companion,
Mr. Calvert. Farther to the westward we passed over open ridges, covered
with Bastard-box and silver-leaved Ironbark: the former tree grows
generally in rich black soil, which appeared several times in the form of
ploughed land, well known, in other parts of the colony, either under
that name, or under that of "Devil-devil land," as the natives believe it
to be the work of an evil spirit.
Nov. 7.--The first two hours of the day were cloudy, but it cleared up
and became very hot; the atmosphere was hazy and sultry; cumuli with
undefined outlines all round the horizon: wind from south-west and south.
I travelled west by north about eight miles, along the foot of
Bastard-box and silver-leaved Ironbark ridges. The country was
exceedingly fine; the ground was firm; the valley from two to three miles
broad, clothed with rich grass, and sprinkled with apple-tree,
flooded-gum, and Bastard-box; the hills formed gentle ascents, and were
openly timbered. The water-holes seemed to be constant; they are very
deep, densely surrounded by reeds, and with numerous heaps of broken
muscle-shells round their banks. Scrub was, however, to be seen in the
distance, and formed the dark spot in the pleasant picture. Game became
more frequent; and last night every body had a duck. As we were pursuing
our course, Mr. Gilbert started a large kangaroo, known by the familiar
name of "old man," which took refuge in a water-hole, where it was
killed, but at the expense of two of our kangaroo dogs, which were
mortally wounded. As we were sitting at our dinner, a fine half-grown emu
walked slowly up to us, as if curious to know what business we had in its
lonely haunts; unfortunately for us, the bark of our little terrier
frightened it; and, although one of my Blackfellows shot after it, it
retired unscathed into the neighbouring thicket. Mr. Roper killed a
Rallus, which Mr. Gilbert thought to be new. The high land from which we
came, appears at present as a distant range to the south-east.
Fine-grained sandstone, with impressions of leaves, was again observed,
and a few pieces of silicified wood. A Thysanotus with fine large
blossoms now adorns the forest. The native carrot is in seed; the
Eryngium of Jimba, and a leguminous plant, prostrate with ternate leaves
and bunches of yellow flowers, were frequent; several beautiful species
of everlastings were occasionally seen, and the little orange-tree of the
Condamine grew in the scrub.
Nov. 8.--We followed the Dawson for about eight miles lower down. About
four miles from our camp, it is joined by a fine chain of ponds from the
north-east. The flats on both sides are covered by open Bastard-box
forest, of a more or less open character. In the rainy season, the whole
valley is probably covered with water; for we frequently observed the
marks of torrents rushing down from the hills; and, along the foot of the
ridges, ponds and lagoons were frequent. The heat of summer had already
burnt up a great part of the grasses; and it was only in the immediate
neighbourhood of the river that there was any appearance of verdure. The
bed of the river became drier, and changed its character considerably.
Charley stated, that he had seen a large plain extending for many miles
to the south-west, and a high mountain to the north. Several emus,
pigeons, and ducks were seen. Mr. Calvert found concretions of marl in
the creek. John Murphy caught a great number of crawfish. For the first
time since leaving the Condamine, we were visited by a thunder-storm.
Cumuli generally during the afternoon, with wind from the W.N.W; during
the night it usually clears up.
Nov. 10.--The country along the river changed, during the last two
stages, considerably for the worse. The scrub approached very near to the
banks of the river, and, where it receded, a disagreeable thicket of
Bastard-box saplings filled almost the whole valley: fine lagoons were
along the river, frequently far above its level; the river itself divided
into anabranches, which, with the shallow watercourses of occasional
floods from the hills, made the whole valley a maze of channels, from
which we could only with difficulty extricate ourselves. "I never saw
such a rum river, in my life," said my blackfellow Charley.
The open forest was sometimes one large field of everlasting flowers with
bright yellow blossoms; whilst the scrub plains were thickly covered with
grasses and vervain. Almost all the grasses of Liverpool Plains grow
here. Ironstone and quartz pebbles were strewed over the ground; and, in
the valley, fine-grained sandstone with layers of iron-ore cropped out.
Large fish were seen in the lagoons; but we only succeeded in catching
some small fish of the genus Gristes. Muscles continued to be frequent;
and we saw the gunyas of the natives everywhere, although no native made
his appearance.
It was here that I first met, growing on the scrubby hills, a species of
Bauhinia, either shrubby or a small shady tree, with spreading branches;
the pods are flat, of a blunt form, almost one inch in breadth, and from
three to four inches long. The Bricklow seems to prevent the growth of
almost all other vegetation, with the exception of a small shrub, with
linear lanceolate aromatic leaves. An Acacia, with long drooping, almost
terete leaves, grew along the river; and Crinums grew in patches amongst
the everlasting flowers, on a sandy soil. Our latitude, of the 9th
November, was 25 degrees 53 minutes 55 seconds; and that of the 10th, 25
degrees 47 minutes 55 seconds, at about eleven miles north-west from the
camp of the 8th November.
Until the 14th of November, we travelled down the Dawson. In order to
avoid the winding course of the river, and the scrub and thickets that
covered its valley, which rendered our progress very slow, we had
generally to keep to the ridges, which were more open. We several times
met with fine plains, which I called "Vervain Plains," as that plant grew
abundantly on them. They were surrounded with scrub, frequently sprinkled
with Bricklow groves, interspersed with the rich green of the Bauhinia,
and the strange forms of the Bottle-tree; which imparted to the scene a
very picturesque character. From one of these plains we obtained, for the
first time, a view of some well-defined ranges to the west-north-west.
The general course of the river, between the latitudes of 25 degrees 41
minutes 55 seconds and 25 degrees 37 minutes 12 seconds, was to the
northward; but, as it commenced to turn to the east, I was induced to
cross it, and to follow my former direction to the northwest. Between
those two latitudes, the river had commenced to run, which was not the
ease higher up, notwithstanding it was formed by long reaches of water,
upon which pelicans and ducks were abundant. Mr. Calvert and the black,
Charley, who had been sent back to one of our last camping places, had,
on returning, kept a little more to the north-east, and had seen a river
flowing to the northward, and a large creek; both of which, probably,
join the Dawson lower down. At that part of the river where it commences
to run, its bed was more confined, and was fringed by Melaleucas and
drooping Acacias.
Our provisions had been increased by an emu, which Charley shot; our
remaining two kangaroo dogs also succeeded in catching an "old man"
kangaroo on the Vervain Plains of the 14th November. I made it an
invariable practice to dry the meat which remained after the consumption
of the day's allowance, and it served considerably to save our stock of
dried beef, and to lengthen the lives of our bullocks. The utmost economy
was necessary;--for we were constantly exposed to losses, occasioned by
the pack bullocks upsetting their loads; an annoyance which was at this
time of frequent occurrence from the animals being irritated by the
stings of hornets--a retaliation for the injuries done to their nests,
which, being suspended to the branches of trees, were frequently torn
down by the bullocks passing underneath.
A large turtle was seen; and Mr. Gilbert caught two fine eels in one of
the lagoons. We had thunder-storms on the 12th and 13th of November: the
morning is generally cloudy, the clouds come from the north-east and
north, clearing away in the middle of the day; and the afternoon is
exceedingly hot.
Nov. 14.--A dense scrub, which had driven us back to the river, obliged
me to reconnoitre to the north-west, in which I was very successful; for,
after having crossed the scrub, I came into an open country, furnished
with some fine sheets of water, and a creek with Corypha palms, growing
to the height of 25 or 30 feet. The feelings of delight which I
experienced when, upon emerging from the more than usually inhospitable
Bricklow scrub, the dark verdure of a swamp surrounding a small lake
--with native companions (ARDEAANTIGONE) strutting round, and swarms of
ducks playing on its still water, backed by an open forest, in which the
noble palm tree was conspicuous--suddenly burst upon our view, were so
great as to be quite indescribable. I joyfully returned to the camp, to
bring forward my party; which was not, however, performed without
considerable trouble. We had to follow the Dawson down to where the creek
joined it; for the scrub was impassable for loaded bullocks, and, even on
this detour, we had to contend with much scrub as we proceeded down the
valley. It, however, became more free from scrub at every step, and
opened out into flats of more or less extent on either side, skirted by
hills, clothed with an open forest, rising into regular ranges. On my
RECONNAISSANCE I crossed the Gilbert Ranges, which were named after my
companion Mr. Gilbert, and came on waters which fall to the eastward, and
join the Dawson lower down. From the summit of an open part of the range,
I saw other ranges to the northward, but covered with Bricklow scrub, as
was also the greater part of Gibert's Range. To the east, however, the
view was more cheering; for the hills are more open, and the vegetation
composed of the silver-leaved and narrow-leaved Ironbark trees and an
open Vitex scrub. Several rocky gullies were passed, that were full of
palm trees. The valley of Palm-tree Creek extends about nineteen miles
from west to east The ranges which bound it to the south, I called
"Lynd's Range," after my friend R. Lynd, Esq. Gilbert's Range bounds it
to the northward: Middle Range separates the creek from the Dawson up to
their junction. Several large swamps are within the valley; one of which,
the small lake which first broke upon my view, received the name of
"Roper's Lake," after one of my companions.
Nov. 17.--We went about nine miles up the valley, on a south branch of
Palm-tree Creek, which derives its waters from Lynd's Range. The fine
water-hole which I selected for our camp, was not only shaded by stately
Coryphas and flooded gums, but the drooping Callistemon, the creek
Melaleuca, and the Casuarina, gave to it the character of the rivers and
creeks of the Moreton Bay district. It changed, however, into a shallow
waterless channel, communicating with one of the large swamps which
generally extend along the base of the hills. I rode up Lynd's Range,
passing plains similar to those I have before mentioned, composed of
black soil intermingled with fossil wood and decomposed sandstone, and
densely covered with Burr, (a composite plant) and Verbena, and scattered
tufts either of Bricklow, or of Coxen's Acacia, or of the bright green
Fusanus, or of the darker verdure of Bauhinia, with here and there a
solitary tree of a rich dark-green hue, from forty to fifty feet in
height. From the summit I had a fine view down the valley of the Dawson,
which was bounded on both sides by ranges. A high distant mountain was
seen about N.N.E. from Lynd's Range, at the left side of the Dawson.
The water-holes abounded with jew-fish and eels; of the latter we
obtained a good supply, and dried two of them, which kept very well. Two
species of Limnaea, the one of narrow lengthened form, the other shorter
and broader; a species of Paludina, and Cyclas and Unios, were frequent.
The jew-fish has the same distoma in its swimming bladder, which I
observed in specimens caught in the Severn River to the southward of
Moreton Bay: on examining the intestines of this fish, they were full of
the shells of Limnaea and Cyclas. Large specimens of helix were frequent
on the Vervain Plains, but they were only dead shells. The fat-hen
(Atriplex) and the sow-thistle (Sonchus) grew abundantly on the reedy
flats at the upper end of the creek; Grewia, a prostrate Myoporum, and a
bean with yellow blossoms, were frequent all over the valley. Atriplex
forms, when young, as we gratefully experienced, an excellent vegetable,
as do also the young shoots of Sonchus. The tops of the Corypha palm eat
well, either baked in hot ashes or raw, and, although very indigestible,
did not prove injurious to health when eaten in small quantities. In the
vicinity of the swamps of Palm-tree Creek, I noticed a grass with an ear
much resembling the bearded wheat: with the exception of the cultivated
Cerealia, it had the largest seed I ever met with in grasses; even my
Blackfellow was astonished at its remarkable size.
During the night we experienced a strong wind from the northward, and,
during the afternoon, a gust of wind and rain from west and north-west;
but no thunder.
Nov. 18.--Clouds gathered from the west and north-west, a few drops of
rain fell, and a few low peals of thunder were heard; but, although
charged with electric fluid, and, in appearance, threatening an
approaching thunder-storm, no discharge of lightning took place. We were
very much annoyed and harassed, during the evening and the early part of
the night, by sand-flies and mosquitoes; but the clear night grew so
cold, that these great enemies of bush comforts were soon benumbed. The
latitude of the camp of the 18th November was 25 degrees 30 minutes 11
seconds.
Nov. 19.--No air stirring, night very cold and bright; dew heavy; the
surface of the creek covered with vapour; the water very warm.
Having no apparatus for ascertaining the height of our position above the
level of the sea, this very interesting fact could not be determined;
but, from the cold experienced, at a period so near the summer solstice,
the elevation must have been very considerable.
We travelled during the day in a westerly direction over a level country,
partly covered with reeds and fat-hen, and came to a broad sandy creek,
which turned to the south-east and south. Having crossed it, we passed
several large lagoons and swamps covered with plovers and ducks; and, at
a short mile farther, came again on the creek, which now had a deep
channel and a broad sandy bed lined with casuarinas and flooded-gum
trees. I called this "Robinson's Creek." At its left bank, we saw a wide
sheet of water, beyond which rose a range densely covered with scrub: I
called them "Murphy's Lake and Range," after John Murphy, one of my
companions.
I believe that Robinson's Creek is a westerly water; and, if so, it is
very remarkable that the heads of Palm-tree Creek, which flows to the
eastward, should be scarcely a mile distant; and that the interesting
space, separating the two systems of waters, should be, to all
appearance, a dead level.
I had descended--from a scrubby table land, the continuation of Darling
Downs--into a system of easterly waters. I had followed down the Dawson
for a considerable distance, and then, following up one of its creeks,
found myself again on westerly waters. I could not decide, to my entire
satisfaction, whether my views were right; for the country was difficult
for reconnoitring; and I was necessarily compelled to move quickly on, to
accomplish the object of my expedition: but it is a very interesting
point for geographical research, and I hope, if I am not anticipated by
other explorers, to ascertain, at some future period, the course of these
creeks and rivers.
Nov. 20.--The first part of the night till the setting of the moon was
very clear; after this it became cloudy, but cleared again at sunrise,
with the exception of some mackerel-sky and stratus to the north-west.
During the forenoon it was again cloudy, and a thunder-storm occurred at
half-past two o'clock from the north-west and west-north-west, with
little rain, but a heavy gust of wind.
In travelling to the westward, along Robinson's Creek, although two or
three miles distant from it, we passed two lakes, one of which was a
fine, long, but rather narrow, sheet of water, with swamps to the
south-east. About six miles farther on, the country began to rise into
irregular scrubby ridges; the scrub generally composed of Vitex
intermingled with various forest trees. The small orange-tree, which we
had found in blossom at the Condamine, was setting its fruit. Farther on,
the dense Bricklow scrub compelled me to approach the banks of the creek,
where we travelled over fine flats, but with a rather sandy rotten soil.
The apple-tree, flooded-gum, silver-leaved ironbark, and the bastard-box
grew on the flats and on the ridges. The creek was well provided with
large water-holes, surrounded by high reeds.
We now entered a mountainous country; and the banks of the creek became
sometimes very steep and broken by narrow gullies, rendering our progress
slow and difficult. We had to wind our way through narrow valleys, and
over ranges from which the descent was frequently very steep and
dangerous. The latitude of our camp of the 21st November was 25 degrees
28 minutes 12 seconds; that of the 22nd was 25 degrees 25 minutes; that
of the 23rd, about 32 miles west of Murphy's Lake, was 25 degrees 27
minutes 12 seconds. Here the ranges were, for the most part, openly
timbered, with the exception of the higher points, which were generally
covered with vine-brush; in one of which we found the nests of the brush
turkey (Talegalla Lathami), and observed the bird itself. Some
considerable stretches of beautiful country were now travelled over; the
leading feature being low ridges, openly timbered with the silver-leaved
ironbark, covered with an abundance of grass and herbs, and furnished
with large lagoons; there was also a constant supply of water in the
creek itself. On the banks of the latter, a species of Sterculia grows to
a large size, and is one of the most pleasing and ornamental trees of the
country; it is probably different from, although nearly allied to S.
heterophylla. Very disagreeable, however, was the abundance of Burr and
of a spear-grass (Aristida), which attached themselves to our clothes and
blankets, and entered (particularly the latter) into the very skin. I
have also to mention, that a yellow Villarsia was found on one of the
lakes; which were generally surrounded by high sedges. We have not seen
black swans since leaving Murphy's Lake; at which place we first saw a
species of whistling duck, (Leptotarsis, GOULD.)
Appearances indicated that the commencement of the ranges was a favourite
resort of the "Blackfellows." The remains of recent repasts of muscles
were strewed about the larger water-holes, and, as I passed a native
camp, which had only lately been vacated, I found, under a few sheets of
bark, four fine kangaroo nets, made of the bark of Sterculia; also
several bundles of sticks, which are used to stretch them. As I was in
the greatest want of cordage, I took two of these nets; and left, in
return, a fine brass hilted sword, the hilt of which was well polished,
four fishing-hooks, and a silk handkerchief; with which, I felt
convinced, they would be as well pleased, as I was with the cordage of
their nets. It was to this spot that Mr. Pemberton Hodgson penetrated,
when he afterwards followed my tracks, to ascertain the truth of the
rumours, which had been carried by the blacks to Moreton Bay, of my
having been either killed by the natives, or destroyed by a hurricane,
which was said to have passed through the narrow valley of the confined
creek.
The high mountain ranges, at the head of Robinson's Creek, which we
observed from the tops of the hills, at the entrance into the mountainous
country, bore W.N.W., and N.W. from the position I now occupied. We had a
thunder-storm on the 21st November, followed by continued rain and a
perfect calm During the night occasional showers of rain fell; at sunrise
light fleecy clouds from W.N.W.: the nights, when clear, were very cold.
Until very lately we had all suffered severely from diarrhoea, which I
could not account for, othewise than by attributing it to our change of
diet. Fresh meat had almost invariably affected us; but after a time our
continued exposure to the air, the regularity of our movements, and
constant state of exertion, rendered us more hardy, and sharpened our
appetites. Iguanas, opossums, and birds of all kinds, had for some time
past been most gladly consigned to our stewing-pot, neither good, bad,
nor indifferent being rejected. The dried kangaroo meat, one of our
luxuries, differed very little in flavour from the dried beef, and both,
after long stewing, afforded us an excellent broth, to which we generally
added a little flour. It is remarkable how soon man becomes indifferent
to the niceties of food; and, when all the artificial wants of society
have dropped off, the bare necessities of life form the only object of
his desires.
One of our bullocks had torn one of the flour-bags, and about fifteen
pounds of flour were scattered over the ground. We all set to work, to
scrape as much of it up as we could, using the dry gum leaves as spoons
to collect it; and, when it got too dirty to mix again with our flour,
rather than leave so much behind, we collected about six pounds of it
well mixed with dried leaves and dust, and of this we made a porridge,--a
mess which, with the addition of some gelatine, every one of us enjoyed
highly.
No new insects, few new birds, and but few plants, attracted our
attention. Mr. Gilbert's parrot, which he first met with on the downs,
was very frequent; the glucking-bird and the barking-owl were heard
throughout the moonlight nights. Several native dogs were killed, and
their howling was frequently heard. Only one kangaroo had been shot since
we left the Dawson, although their tracks were met with every where.
Charley had taken several opossums; the presence of these animals
generally indicates a good country. Quails were abundant, but not worth
our powder; flocks of spur-winged plovers were living at the lakes and
swamps, and a shy hornbill (Scythrops) was seen and heard several times.
The nests of the white ant were rarely seen; but the soldier ant, and the
whole host of the others, were every where. The funnel ant digs a
perpendicular hole in the ground, and surrounds the opening with an
elevated wall, sloping outwards like a funnel; the presence of this
insect generally indicates a rotten soil, into which horses and cattle
sink beyond their fetlocks. This soil is, however, by no means a pure
sand, but is well mixed with particles of clay, which allow the ant to
construct its fabric. In rainy weather this soil forms the best
travelling ground, and is by no means so rotten as when dry.
Large hornets of a bright yellow colour, with some black marks, made
their paper nests on the stems of trees, or suspended them from the dry
branches; most of us were several times severely stung by them. When
found near our encampment we generally destroyed them, by quickly raising
a large fire with dry grass.
A species of Gristes was abundant in the water-holes, but it was of small
size: the eels have disappeared.
Nov. 25.--We travelled about eight miles, north by west, ascending a
spur, from which the waters flowed, both to the south-west and to the
eastward, but both collecting in Robinson's Creek. Every time we turned
to the westward we came on tremendous gullies, with almost perpendicular
walls, whereas the easterly waters formed shallow valleys of a gently
sloping character. The range was openly timbered with white-gum,
spotted-gum, Ironbark, rusty-gum, and the cypress-pine near the gullies;
and with a little dioecious tree belonging to the Euphorbiaceae, which I
first met with at the Severn River, and which was known amongst us under
the name of the "Severn Tree:" it had a yellow or red three-capsular
fruit, with a thin fleshy pericarp, of an exceedingly bitter taste; the
capsules were one-seeded. The gullies were full of bush-trees, amongst
which the Bottle-tree, and the Corypha-palm were frequent. Pomaderris and
Flindersia were in fruit and blossom. According to Mr. Gilbert, rock
wallabies were very numerous. On a RECONNOISSANCE I traversed the
continuation of the range, which I found to be of a flat, sandy, and
rotten character, having, with the exception of the Blackbutt, all the
trees and other characteristics of the sandstone country of Moreton Bay:
Xylomelum, Xanthorrhaea, Zamia, Leptospermum, a new species of forest
oak, which deserves the name of Casuarina VILLOSA, for its bark looks
quite villous; Persoonia falcata, R. Br., a small tree about fifteen feet
high, with stiff glaucous falcate leaves, and racemose inflorescence; a
dwarf Persoonia, with linear leaves, the stringy-bark, and a species of
Melaleuca along the creek. In my excursion I crossed the main branch of
Robinson's Creek, and found the gullies of its right bank as steep and
tremendous as those of the left. Water was very scarce. The whole country
is composed of a fine-grained sandstone.
As the water-holes on the range are very few and distant from each other,
they are frequented by the bronze-winged pigeons in great numbers. Mr.
Gilbert shot eight of them, and Mr. Roper, John Murphy, and Charley,
added to the number, so that we had a fine pigeon supper and breakfast,
each having his bird--a rare occurrence in our expedition. A few drops of
rain fell in the morning.
Nov. 26.--When we were waiting for our bullocks, four emus came trotting
down the slope towards the camp. Messrs. Gilbert, Roper, Murphy, and
Brown, having their horses ready, gave chase, and, after a dangerous
gallop, over extremely rocky ground, succeeded, with the assistance of
our kangaroo dog, Spring, in securing one of them. When Charley returned
to the camp with the bullocks, he told us that he had found these emus
walking amongst the bullocks, and that he had struck one of them with his
tomahawk. On our road to the water, which I had found on my
reconnoisance, about seven miles W.N.W., under a still higher range,
rising at the right of Robinson's Creek, we started a herd of eight
kangaroos, when our horsemen, assisted by Spring, were again successful
in taking one of them.
Nov. 27.--A thunder-storm during the night, which passed, however, to the
other side of the range. After a gust of wind of short duration, we had
some very light showers; so light indeed, as not to interrupt our
meat-drying process.
Proceeding on our journey, we ascended the range, and travelled between
four and five miles on its level summit, which was covered with open
forest, interspersed with thickets of Acacias and Casuarinas. From the
extremity of the range we enjoyed a very fine and extensive view. Ranges
of mountains with conspicuous peaks, cupolas, and precipitous walls of
rock, were observed extending at various distances from west by north to
north-west. The most distant range was particularly striking and
imposing; I called it "Expedition Range," and to a bell-shaped mountain
bearing N. 68 degrees W., I gave the name of "Mount Nicholson," in honour
of Dr. Charles Nicholson, who first introduced into the Legislative
Council of New South Wales, the subject of an overland expedition to Port
Essington; and to a sharp peak N. 66 degrees W., the name of "Aldis's
Peak," in acknowledgment of the kind assistance received from Mr. Aldis
of Sydney. We then descended, with great difficulty into a broad valley,
bounded on either side by fine slopes and ridges, openly timbered with
silver-leaved Ironbark. On the small well-grassed flats along the
watercourse, the flooded-gum and apple-trees grew to a considerable size.
The morning was cloudy, with occasional drops of rain; but it cleared up
towards noon, and, near sunset, a wall of dark clouds rose in the west,
over the ranges. Thunder-storms very generally come with westerly cloudy
weather, with north-westerly, and northerly winds. We busied ourselves in
extracting the oil from the skin of the emu: this operation was performed
by suspending it on sticks before a gentle fire, the oil dripping from it
into a shallow vessel. It is of a light amber colour, and is very useful
in oiling the locks of our fire-arms; it has been considered a good
anti-rheumatic, and I occasionally used it for that purpose.
Mr. Gilbert skinned the tail of the kangaroo to make a bag for holding
fat; but it broke and ripped so easily when dry, as to render it unfit
for that purpose. We used the skins of the kangaroos to cover our
flour-bags, which were in a most wretched condition. Our latitude was 25
degrees 19 minutes 19 seconds.
Nov. 28.--Charley and Brown informed us that they had followed the
watercourse, and had come to a broad river with precipitous banks, which
would not allow any passage for our horses and cattle; they also stated
that the watercourse on which we were encamped, became a rocky gully, and
that it would be impossible to cross it lower down. From this information
I supposed that a river, like the Robinson, rising in many gullies of the
north-east ranges, and flowing in south-west direction was before us; I,
therefore, decided upon heading it. It was, however, very difficult to
find a leading spur, and we frequently came on deep and impassable
gullies, surrounded by a dense thicket of cypresspine, and a great
variety of shrubs peculiar to sandstone rock. After travelling about nine
miles in a N. 15 degrees E. direction, we came to a subordinate range,
and having found, in one of its watercourses, some tolerable grass and a
fine water-hole, we were enabled to encamp. Mr. Roper and Charley, who
had kept a little more to the left, reported that they had been on one of
the heads of the Boyd, and had seen a fine open country to the westward,
and south-west. The "Boyd" was so named in acknowledgment of the liberal
support I had received from Benjamin Boyd, Esq.
Amongst the shrubs along the gullies, a new species of Dodonaea, with
pinnate pubescent leaves, was frequent. Towards evening we had a
thunderstorm from the westward.
Nov. 29.--In reconnoitring the country in the neighbourhood of the camp,
I ascended three mountains, and ascertained that there are five parallel
ranges, striking from north to south, of which the three easterly ones
send their waters to the eastward; whereas the two westerly ones send
theirs to the Boyd, the valley of which has a south-westerly direction.
To the north of the Boyd, there is a steep mountain barrier, striking
from east to west. All these ranges are composed of sandstone, with their
horizontal strata, some of which have a very fine grain. Impressions of
Calamites were observed in one of the gullies. We also saw two kangaroos.
In the water-hole near our camp, there were numerous small brown leeches,
which were very keen in the water, but dropped off as soon as we lifted
our feet out of it. The hornets also were very troublesome. Recent bush
fires and still smoking trees betokened the presence of natives; who
keep, however, carefully out of sight. This country, with its dry scrubby
ranges and its deep rocky gullies, seems to be thinly inhabited; the
natives keeping, probably, to the lower course of Robinson's Creek and of
the Boyd. The descent to the easterly waters is much more gentle; water
remains longer in the deep rocky basins or puddled holes of its creeks,
and the vegetation is richer and greener. Instead of the cypress-pine
scrub, the Corypha-palm and the Casuarina grew here, and invited us to
cool shaded waters; the Corypha-palm promised a good supply of cabbage.
We had a thunder-storm from the southward, which turned from the range to
the eastward. The two last days were cloudless and very hot; but, on the
ranges, a cool breeze was stirring from the northward.
Nov. 30.--I wished to move my camp to a small water-hole about eight
miles east by north, which I had found yesterday; but, though I kept more
to the northward than I thought necessary, we were everywhere intercepted
by deep rocky gullies. Losing much time in heading them, I ventured to
descend one of the more practicable spurs, and, to my great satisfaction,
my bullocks did it admirably well. The valley into which I entered was
very different from these barriers; gentle slopes, covered with open
forest of silver-leaved Ironbark, and most beautifully grassed,
facilitated my gradual descent to the bottom of the valley, which was
broad, flat, thinly timbered with flooded-gum and apple-trees, densely
covered with grass, and, in the bed of the creek which passed through it,
well provided with reedy water-holes. Before I ventured to proceed with
my whole party, I determined to examine the country in advance, and
therefore followed up one of the branches of the main creek, in a
northerly direction. In proceeding, the silver-leaved Ironbark forest
soon ceased, and the valley became narrow and bounded by perpendicular
walls of sandstone, composed of coarse grains of quartz, rising out of
sandy slopes covered with Dogwood (Jacksonia) and spotted-gum. The rock
is in a state of rapid decomposition, with deep holes and caves inhabited
by rock-wallabies; and with abundance of nests of wasps, and wasp-like
Hymenoptera, attached to their walls, or fixed in the interstices of the
loose rock. Through a few gullies I succeeded in ascending a kind of
table-land, covered with a low scrub, in which the vegetation about
Sydney appeared in several of its most common forms. I then descended
into other valleys to the eastward, but all turned to the east and
south-east; and, after a long and patient investigation, I found no
opening through which we could pass with our bullocks. Although I
returned little satisfied with my ride, I had obtained much interesting
information as to the geological character of this singular country.
CHAPTER III
RUINED CASTLE CREEK--ZAMIA CREEK--BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR
REDUCED--NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE--CHRISTMAS RANGES--BROWN'S
LAGOONS--THUNDER-STORMS--ALBINIA DOWNS--COMET CREEK--NATIVE CAMP.
Dec. 1.--I rode to the eastward from our camp, to ascertain how far we
were from the water-hole to which I had intended to conduct my party.
After having ascended the gullies, and passed the low scrub and
cypress-pine thicket which surrounds them, I came into the open forest,
and soon found our tracks, and the little creek for which I had steered
the day before. This creek, however, soon became a rocky gully, and
joined a large creek, trending to the east and south-east. Disheartened
and fatigued, I returned to the camp, resolved upon following down the
course of the Boyd to the south-west, until I should come into a more
open country. On my way back, I fell in with a new system of gullies,
south of the creek I had left, and east of the creek on which our camp
was, and which I had called "The Creek of the Ruined Castles," because
high sandstone rocks, fissured and broken like pillars and walls and the
high gates of the ruined castles of Germany, rise from the broad sandy
summits of many hills on both sides of the valley.
When I returned to the camp, Mr. Gilbert told me, that Mr. Roper and John
Murphy had been on a mountain towards the head of the main creek,
north-west from our camp, and that they had seen an open country before
them. I therefore started, on the 2d December, with Mr. Gilbert to
examine it. Our admiration of the valley increased at every step. The
whole system of creeks and glens which join "Ruined Castle Creek," would
form a most excellent cattle station. With the exception of the narrow
gorge through which the main creek passes to join the Creek of Palms
[Mr. Arrowsmith is of opinion that such a junction is improbable, if
the author is alluding to the creek, called Palm Tree Creek, which he
fell in with about 60 miles to the S.E.--ED.] to the south-east,
which might be shut by a fence not thirty yards long; and of the
passable ranges to the north-west, which lead into a new country,
and which form the pass seen by Roper and Murphy, it is everywhere
surrounded by impassable barriers. Beautiful grass, plenty of water in
the lower part of the creek, and useful timber, unite to recommend this
locality for such a purpose. The creeks to the east and south-east are
also equally adapted for cattle stations. After passing a stony ridge
covered with spotted-gum, from which the remarkable features of the
country around us--the flat-topped mountain wall, the isolated pillars,
the immense heaps of ruins towering over the summits of the
mountains--were visible, we descended a slope of silver-leaved Ironbark,
and came to a chain of water-holes falling to the east. Travelling in a
north-westerly direction, and passing over an openly timbered country,
for about two miles, we came to the division of the waters, on a slight
ridge which seemed to connect two rather isolated ranges. We followed a
watercourse to the northward, which, at seven miles [In the original
drawing the watercourse is not more than two miles long, according to
Mr. Arrowsmith, so that seven miles must be a mistake.--ED.] lower
down, joined an oak-tree creek, coming from the ranges to the eastward.
Here water was very scarce; the banks of the creek were covered with
Bricklow scrub; and a bush-fire, which had recently swept down the valley,
had left very little food for our cattle: the blady-grass, however, had
begun to show its young shoots, and the vegetation, on some patches of
less recent burnings, looked green. Sterculia (heterophylla?) and the
Bottle-tree, were growing in the scrub; and many Wonga-Wonga pigeons
(Leucosarcia picata, GOULD.) were started from their roosting-places under
the old trees in the sandy bed of the creek. We caught a young curlew; and
Mr. Gilbert shot two Wonga-Wongas, and three partridge-pigeons (Geophaps
scripta). The latter abound in the silver-leaved Ironbark forest, where
the grass has been recently burned.
After having contended with scrubs, with swamps, and with mountains, we
were again doomed to grapple with our old enemy, the silver-leaved
Bricklow, and a prickly Acacia with pinnate leaves, much resembling the
A. farnesiana of Darling Downs.
The most remarkable feature in the vegetation; however, was an aborescent
Zamia, with a stem from seven to eight or ten feet high, and about nine
inches in diameter, and with elongated cones, not yet ripe. In
consequence of the prevalence of this plant, I called the creek "Zamia
Creek." In the fat-hen flats, over which we travelled in following the
watercourse to Zamia creek, I was surprised to find Erythrina, which I
had been accustomed to meet with only on the creeks, and at the outskirts
of mountain brushes, near the sea-coast. The white cedar (Melia
Azedarach) grows also along Zamia Creek, with casuarina, and a species of
Leptospermum. On my return to the camp, I found that a party had been out
wallabi shooting, and had brought in three; they were about two feet
long; body reddish grey, neck mouse grey, a white stripe on each
shoulder, black muzzle, and black at the back of the ear; the tail with
rather long hair. The flying squirrel (Petaurus sciureus) which was not
different from that of the Hunter; and a Centropus phasianellus, (the
swamp pheasant of Moreton Bay), were shot.
Dec. 3.--We stopped at Ruined Castle Creek, in order to obtain more
wallabies, which abounded among the rocks, and which appeared to be a new
species: it approaches nearest to Petrogale lateralis of GOULD, from
which, however, it essentially differs. Mr. Gilbert and all our best
shots went to try their luck; they succeeded in killing seven of them.
The weather was cloudy, but it cleared up during the forenoon; in the
afternoon rain commenced with a perfect calm; for the last three days
easterly winds have prevailed, often blowing very strong at night.
In the rocky gullies, we found the following plants: a new species of
Grevillea, having pinnatifid leaves with very long divisions, the
blossoms of a fine red, and the seed-vessels containing two flat seeds,
surrounded by a narrow transparent membrane; Leucopogon juniperinum and
lanceolatum; a Dodonaea with long linear leaves and D. triquetra, were
frequent.
Dec. 4.--I went with my whole party to Zamia Creek, the latitude of which
is 25 degrees 5 minutes 4 seconds, and which is about sixteen miles west
by north from our last camp.
Dec. 5.--We followed Zamia Creek about six miles down. It is very winding
and scrubby; the rock on its banks is a clayey flagstone (Psammite); the
upper strata are more clayey, and break in many small pieces. Several
hills approached the creek; and a large mountain which I called Bigge's
Mountain, in acknowledgment of the kind support of Frederic Bigge, Esq.,
was seen to the eastward. A large kangaroo started out of the creek, and
was killed by our dogs; it appeared to be rather different from the
common one, being remarkably light-coloured, with a white belly, black
end of the tail, and the inside of the ear dark. We soon met with a fine
reedy water-hole, with swarms of little finches fluttering about it; and,
the place being suitable, I encamped for the night, and took the
opportunity to repair some of our harness. The night was cloudy; the
morning very fine; and the day very hot, with an occasional fresh breeze
from the northward, which generally sets in about eleven o'clock. Thick
cumuli came from the northward during the afternoon, but disappeared
towards sunset.
Dec. 6.--After a fine night, we had a cold morning with heavy dew. From
the hills near the camp, Mount Nicholson bore N. 30 degrees W. and
Aldis's Peak due north; Bigge's Range was in sight to the eastward.
The horses had gone back to Ruined Castle Creek, about twenty-one miles
distant; and the bullocks to our last camp, which, according to Charley,
had been visited by the Blackfellows, who had apparently examined it very
minutely. It was evident that they kept an eye upon us, although they
never made their appearance. Our allowance of flour was now reduced from
six pounds to five.
Dec. 7.--We travelled down Zamia Creek. The bed of the creek, though
lined with many casuarinas, was entirely dry, and we did not reach a
water-hole until we had travelled a distance of nine miles from the camp.
Hoping that the supply of water would increase, I travelled on ward,
leaving Mount Nicholson about six miles to the left. As we proceeded, the
flats along the creek increased in size; and we entered a level country
(which seemed unbounded towards the north-east) covered with
silver-leaved Ironbark, box, and flooded-gum. We passed a large scrubby
creek, coming from Mount Nicholson, and a considerable watercourse from
Aldis's Peak. On the latter, we found a fine water-hole, at which we
encamped. We started a great number of kangaroos; but, unfortunately,
they all escaped. The whole country was full of game.
Whilst preparing to proceed on a RECONNOISSANCE of the neighbourhood,
Charley, who had been sent for my horse, returned at full gallop, and
told me that Blackfellows were spearing our horses. Fortunately Messrs.
Gilbert and Calvert had just come in; and, mounting our horses, three of
us hastened to the place where Charley had seen the Blacks, leaving the
remainder of our party to defend the camp. We found one of our horses had
been deeply wounded in the shoulder; but fortunately, the others were
unhurt, and were grazing quietly. Charley saw two Blackfellows retreating
into the scrub, but had seen a great number of them when he first came to
the place. This event, fortunately not a very disastrous one, was so far
useful, as it impressed every one with the necessity of being watchful,
even when the Blackfellows were not suspected to be near.
The latitude of our camp was 24 degrees 54 minutes 19 seconds, and about
seven miles from our last camp. Aldis's Peak bore N.W. by W., distant two
miles and a half; and I found that it was surrounded by a dense scrub.
After following Zamia Creek for some miles, I turned to the left, and
travelled about north-north-west, when the scrub opened, and we came upon
open ridges, and, at about a mile and a half from the river, found some
fine lagoons. The ridges, which are spurs of Aldis's Peak and Expedition
Range, disappear in the level country to the north-east. Farther on to
the north-north-west, I passed some fine plains, having the black soil,
the vegetation, the dry creeks and watercourses, of Darling Downs. Thick
scrub seems to extend all along the foot of the range, from Aldis's Peak
to Mount Nicholson. Both these mountains are composed of basalt,
containing numerous crystals of peridot.
Dec. 8.--I travelled with my whole party over the ground which I had
reconnoitred yesterday, and had to go a considerable distance farther to
find water. Along the scrubs there are generally chains of water-holes,
which retain the water for a long time, and are soon filled by heavy
thunderstorms; they are well puddled with clay, and, therefore, become
dry almost exclusively by evaporation. Our camp was about eight miles
N.N.W. from the last.
The feed was all parched up: the native carrot, which was so green when
we passed Darling Downs, was here withered and in seed. Immense stretches
of forest had been lately burned, and no trace of vegetation remained.
Partridge-pigeons were very numerous, and the tracks of kangaroos and
wallabies were like sheep-walks. Charley saw an emu; but an iguana and a
partridge-pigeon were the only addition to our night's mess.
The sky was covered by a thin haze, occasioned by extensive bush fires. A
fine breeze, which sprung up at eleven o'clock, from the northward, made
travelling very agreeable. We enjoy no meal so much as our tea and damper
at luncheon, when we encamp between twelve and two o'clock. It is
remarkable how readily the tea dispels every feeling of fatigue, without
the slightest subsequent injury of health.
Paludinas and Unios were very frequent in the water-holes. The
silver-leaved Ironbark (Eucalyptus pulverulentus) was here coming into
blossom. The whole vegetation seemed to feel the heat of an almost
vertical sun; and, with the exception of the fresh green of the Vitex
shrub, the silver-leaved Bricklow, and those patches of young grass which
had been burnt about a month before--all nature looked withered. It was
very hot from nine o'clock to eleven, when the cooling northerly breeze
usually sets in.
Upon reaching the place of our next camp, Mr. Roper went to cut
tent-poles, but, perhaps too intent on finding good ones, unfortunately
lost his way, and wandered about the bush for about five miles before we
were able to make him hear our cooees. Accidents of this kind happen very
easily in a wooded country, where there is no leading range or
watercourse to guide the rambler, or when sufficient care is not taken to
mark and keep the direction of the camp.
Dec. 9.--The haze of yesterday cleared up at sunset, after having formed
two threatening masses of clouds in the east and in the west, united by a
broad belt of mare's tails across the sky. It became cloudy again, and
prevented my taking observations during the night; the morning was cool
and agreeable, clearing up about eleven o'clock; the northerly wind
stirring, as usual. Proceeding on our journey, we travelled about nine
miles W.N.W. over a Box flat, with stiff soil and melon-holes; after a
few miles, it changed into an open silver-leaved Ironbark forest, with
lighter soil. About six miles from our last camp, we came upon a fine
creek (with Casuarinas and palm-trees), flowing from the mountains on a
north-easterly course; and, about three miles further, to the W.N.W., we
came to another creek, and numerous palm-trees growing near it. Following
up the latter, we found a fine water-hole surrounded by reeds, and which
is probably fed by a spring. The forest was well grassed; and a small
Acacia, about fifteen or twenty feet high, with light green bipinnate
leaves (from which exuded an amber-coloured eatable gum), formed groves
and thickets within it. A Capparis, a small stunted tree, was in fruit:
this fruit is about one inch long and three-quarters of an inch broad,
pear-shaped and smooth, with some irregular prominent lines. Capparis
Mitchelii has a downy fruit, and is common in the scrubs. A small
trailing Capparis, also with oblong eatable fruit, was first observed on
a hill near Ruined Castle Creek, in lat. 25 degrees 10 minutes: we met
with it frequently afterwards. We were encamped in the shade of a fine
Erythrina; and the Corypha-palm, Tristania, the flooded-gum, the
silver-leaved Ironbark, Tripetelus, and a species of Croton, grew around
us. A species of Hypochaeris and of Sonchus, were greedily eaten by our
horses; the large Xeranthemum grew on the slopes, among high tufts of
kangaroo grass. A species of Borage (Trichodesma zeylanica), with fine
blue flowers, was first seen here; and the native raspberry, and Ficus
muntia, were in fruit. In the afternoon, I went with Brown up the range,
following the bed of our creek; and, having ascended a spur of sandstone,
with gullies on each side, we came to a large basaltic mountain, clothed
with fine open timber, and a great number of arborescent Zamias.
Dec. 10.--Accompanied by Charley, I went in search of a passage over the
range. We ascended several hills in order to obtain general views, and
found that the level country, over which we had travelled during the last
two days, was of less extent than I had anticipated. To the north-east by
east, ranges rise with the characteristic outlines of the basalt and
phonolite,--in peaks and long stretched flat-topped hills, with
undulations openly timbered extending at their base. One valley descended
to the north-north-east; another to the northward. The principal range
has a direction from south-west to north-east; it is flat on the top, is
well grassed and openly timbered; but, to the northward, it becomes
scrubby, and also changes its geological character. After having crossed
the range--without any great difficulty, with the exception of some steep
places--we came on gullies going down to the north-west; and, from the
rocky head of one of them, the whole country to the west and northwest
burst upon us. There was a fine valley, a flat country, plains, isolated
long-stretched hills, and distant ranges; the highest points of the
latter bearing 77 degrees E. and 76 degrees W.; and, as I hoped to reach
them by Christmas time, I called them "Christmas Ranges." Not being able
to discover a good slope on which our bullocks could travel, I descended
at once into the gully, and followed it in all its windings; knowing well
from experience that it is easier to find a passage up a mountain range
than down it. The gully had all the characters of those of the Boyd; the
same sandstone rock, the same abruptness, and the same vegetation;
excepting, perhaps, a new Grevillea, with pinnatifid leaves and
yellowish-white woolly flowers, which we found here. There was no water,
except in some small holes full of gum leaves, which had rendered it
unfit for use. After proceeding with great difficulty about three miles,
we found that the gullies opened into a broad flat valley; in which
fields of fat-hen, the Croton shrub, the native Tobacco, Erythrina, fine
specimens of flooded-gum, Tristania, and the Moreton Bay ash, were
growing in great abundance. Farther down, however, the Bricklow scrub
covered the whole valley; the water-course disappeared almost entirely;
and we were completely disappointed in our hopes of finding a fine
country. Small plains opened on both sides of the valley, surrounded by
Bricklow scrub, and with patches of Bricklow scattered over them, in
which the Bottle-tree frequently made its portly appearance. A large
flight of Wonga Wonga pigeons were feeding on the seeds of various
species of Acacia; we shot two of them. No water was to be found in an
extent of fifteen miles. The noisy call of the laughing Jackass (Dacclo
gigantea) made me frequently ride back and examine more minutely those
spots marked by a darker foliage; but the presence of this bird is no
certain indication of water, though he likes the neighbourhood of shady
creeks. I could not help thinking that a considerable creek must come
from the north-west side of Mount Nicholson; and, seeing an isolated
range to the south-west, I rode towards it, sure of finding water near
it, if there was any to be found. We approached the range just before
sunset, much tired, with two Wonga-Wongas and three iguanas at our
saddles. I had just informed my Blackfellow, that I wished to encamp,
even without water, when some old broken sheets of bark, remains of the
frail habitations of the natives, caught my eye; a dry water-hole, though
surrounded with green grass and sedges, showed that they had formerly
encamped there, with water. This water-hole was found to be one of a
chain of ponds extending along the edge of the scrub which covered the
hill; and, on following it farther down, we came to a fine pool of water,
which enabled us to encamp comfortably. Next morning, after having
enjoyed an iguana, and finding several other ponds well supplied with
water, we returned. In crossing several of the scrub plains before
mentioned, it was agreeable to observe that the dense vegetation which
covered them was not the miserable Burr and the wiry Vervain, but
Senecios and Sonchus (Sowthistle), which our horses greedily snatched as
they waded through them. The soil is of a dark colour, very rich, but
mild; and the rock below is basaltic. Kangaroos were feeding on the
plains along the scrub; and Charley fired unsuccessfully at a fine "old
man." I saw one emu, and Charley a drove of ten more. The country was
remarkably rich in various kinds of game; and I was very sorry that we
were not better sportsmen, to avail ourselves of so favourable a
circumstance. We found a passage for our bullocks at the west side of the
valley along which we had come down; the ascent was steep, but
practicable. We followed the spur up to the principal range, where we
found some difficulty in heading some steep gullies, which come up to the
highest crest of the mountains. After some tiresome riding, I was
fortunate enough to hit the head of the creek on which our party was
encamped; and, following it down--over loose rocks, large boulders, and
occasional steep falls--accompanied by my excellent little horse, which
willingly followed wherever I led, I came into a more open country; and
the report of a gun gave me the pleasing assurance that our camp was at
no great distance. My Blackfellow quitted me on the range, as he had done
before, on several similar occasions; and it was too evident that I could
not rely upon him in times of difficulty and danger. Within the scrub on
the range, we found five or six huts, lately constructed, of the natives;
they come here probably to find honey, and to catch rock-wallabies, which
are very numerous in the sandstone gullies. In the gully which I
descended, a shrub with dark-green leaves was tolerably frequent; its red
berries, containing one or two seeds, were about the size of a cherry,
and very good eating when ripe. The new Grevillea, before mentioned, was
also found here growing on a sandy soil; and a species of Clematis tied
the shrubs into an almost impenetrable maze. The arborescent Zamia was as
frequent here as on the slopes and flat tops of the basaltic mountains;
it grows from six to ten feet high, and even higher, and is about a foot
in diameter; and often, its dark scaly trunk, borne to the ground by the
winds, raises its fine head like a reclining man.
There was a thunder-storm to the south-east and east on the 10th
December. These thunder-storms are generally very local, belonging to
distant valleys and ranges. Much rain had fallen at the foot of the
range, but we had very little of it. Several of my companions suffered by
eating too much of the cabbage-palm. The Blackfellows will doubtless
wonder why so many noble trees had been felled here. One of our
kangaroo-dogs followed a kangaroo, and did not return; a severe loss, as
we have only one left out of five, and this one is young and diseased.
Our little terrier keeps very well.
Dec. 12--After a clear night, the morning was misty, with a wall of
clouds to the westward; at nine o'clock it cleared up, and loose cumuli
passed over from the east; at eleven o'clock all clouds had disappeared,
and a cool breeze set in from the northward. Charley did not succeed in
bringing in the horses and cattle sufficiently early for starting on the
long and difficult passage over the range. Our meat was all consumed; but
we wished to reserve our bullocks for Christmas, which was, in every one
of us, so intimately associated with recollections of happy days and
merriment, that I was determined to make the coming season as merry as
our circumstances permitted. This decision being final, every one
cheerfully submitted to a small allowance, and did his best to procure
game. Our latitude was 24 degrees 43 minutes.
Dec. 13.--We travelled along the spur at the west and south-west side of
Erythrina creek, at which we had been encamped; and, after having headed
the whole system of its gullies--keeping to the right along the main
range for about three miles, we came to the spur on which I and Charley
had ascended on our return, and which had a general direction to the
north-west. When we arrived at the foot of the range, our cattle and
horses were so jaded, and the water-hole still so far off, that I
encamped here, more especially as the feed was young and rich, and as I
had hopes of obtaining water by digging into the sand which filled the
upper part of the valley. In this, however, I did not succeed; for, upon
digging about three feet deep, I came on a layer of stiff clay very hard
and dry. Fortunately, however, a thunder-storm came on towards the
evening, which supplied our cattle as well as ourselves with water. This
was the only time we encamped without a certainty of water, during our
journey from Jimba to the head of the gulf, which occupied ten months.
The whole night was showery, the wind and clouds coming from all
directions.
Dec. 14.--We reached the water-holes I had discovered three days
previous. Our cattle were very thirsty, notwithstanding the late rain,
and they rushed into the water as soon as they got sight of it.
The hills, at the foot of which we are encamped, are composed of
whinstone (basalt). Pebbles of conglomerate, of flint, and of quartz
deeply coloured with iron, are, however, very frequent on the slopes. It
is remarkable that that part of the range which is composed of basalt, is
a fine open forest, whereas the basaltic hills of the large valley are
covered with dense scrub. The Myal was frequent; and the fruit of the
small lemon-tree was ripe.
I followed the watercourse which connects the water-holes on which we
encamped, and met every where with Bricklow scrub. Mr. Gilbert ascended
the hills, and stated that the whole valley to the westward appeared like
an immense sea of scrub.
A thunder-storm was forming to the north-west, but was probably deflected
by the ranges.
Dec. 15.--Last night we had two thunder-storms; one rose in the west, and
turned to the northward, following the Christmas Ranges; the other rose
in the south, and turned to the east, probably attracted by Expedition
Range. Still following the watercourse, we entered, after about four
miles travelling, into the scrub. The watercourse was soon lost in the
level ground, and water-holes appeared every where; the general direction
of the waters seemed to be to the north-west. Four miles farther we came
to a piece of open forest at the foot of a hill, which was covered with
ironstone-pebbles. Here we encamped without water; but, having passed
good water-holes not four miles distant, I sent Mr. Calvert and Brown to
fetch some, whilst I and Charley went forward to examine the country. On
my way to some ranges which I had seen to the eastward, I fell in with a
dry watercourse, and, following it down for about half a mile from the
camp, discovered a well-filled water-hole. The watercourse was found to
join a creek with a deep and very wide bed, but dry. Muscle-shells
strewed in every direction, and other appearances, indicated that, during
the wet season, the whole country must be very swampy. The course of the
creek was to the N. N. W., and it is joined by watercourses from the
right and left; all now quite dry. After having followed the creek for
about twelve miles, until sunset, without coming to the end of the scrub
through which it trended, we were compelled to retrace our steps; in
attempting which my companion, Charley, lost the track, but my good
little horse, Jim Crow, guided us to the camp, which we reached about
eleven o'clock. Mr. Calvert and Brown had not yet returned; although the
report of their guns had been heard several times. The night was
extremely cold, notwithstanding we were encamped under the shelter of
trees: and it was therefore evident that we were at a considerable
elevation above the level of the sea. The Box-tree of Jimba-flats, the
Bricklow--in short, the whole vegetation of the scrubby country, west of
Darling Downs, were still around us; and the Moreton Bay ash (a species
of Eucalyptus)--which I had met with, throughout the Moreton Bay
district, from the sea coast of the Nynga Nyngas to Darling Downs--was
here also very plentiful.
Dec. 16.--Our cattle and our horses, with the exception of those we had
used the night before, had strayed in search of water; but Charley found
them on the sow-thistle plains, beyond our last camp. Messrs. Calvert,
Murphy, and Brown, came in early this morning; they had lost their way in
the dark, in consequence of remaining too long at the water-hole. They
informed me that they had passed the night on an open piece of forest
ground along a creek. This intelligence induced me to examine the
locality: I therefore went with Brown, and found the creek, with a deep
sandy, but dry bed, full of reeds; its direction being from south by west
to north by east. I followed it up about eight miles, when the scrub
receded from its left bank, and a fine open extensive flat stretched to
the westward. I looked into the Casuarina thickets which occasionally
fringed its bank, in search of water; but found none. I was frequently on
the point of returning, but, induced by the presence of reeds, continued
the search, until the scrub again approached the right side of the creek;
and, in one of those chains of ponds which almost invariably exist at the
outside of these scrubs, a small pool of water was found. This gave me
fresh confidence, and I was eagerly examining the creek, when Brown
exclaimed, "Plenty of water, sir! plenty of water!" and a magnificent
lagoon, surrounded by a rich belt of reeds, lay before us. The natives
must have been at this spot some time before, and have burned the grass;
as the earth was now covered with a delicate verdure. The country
appeared flat, and was so openly timbered with fine flooded gum-trees,
that we could see for a considerable distance; a circumstance very
favourable to us, in case of the natives proving hostile. It would appear
that this place was frequently resorted to by the natives: the bark had
been recently stripped in various places; the huts were in good repair,
with heaps of muscle-shells and some kangaroo-bones about them. We
returned to the camp with the joyous news; for I had been greatly
perplexed as to the direction I ought to take. Charley returned very late
with the strayed cattle, and reported that he had seen the smoke of the
Blackfellow's fires all along the western ranges. This was welcome
intelligence; for we knew that their presence indicated the existence of
a good country. Yesterday in coming through the scrub, we had collected a
large quantity of ripe native lemons, of which, it being Sunday, we
intended to make a tart; but, as my companions were absent, the treat was
deferred until their return, which was on Monday morning, when we made
them into a dish very like gooseberry-fool; they had a very pleasant acid
taste, and were very refreshing. They are of a light yellow colour,
nearly round, and about half an inch in diameter; the volatile oil of the
rind was not at all disagreeable.
The chains of water-holes within the scrub are covered with a stiff
star-grass, having a great number of spikes rising from the top of the
stem; and several sedges crowd around the moister spots. A stiff, wiry,
leafless polygonaceous plant grows in the shallow depressions of the
surface of the ground, which are significantly termed by the squatters
"Melon-holes", and abound in the open Box-tree flats. A small shrubby
Stenochilus with very green linear lanceolate leaves and red tubulous
flowers, is frequent amongst the Bricklow.
The pools and lagoons contain Unios, Paludinas, and the lanceolate and
oval Limnaeas. Fine dry weather has set in; the northerly breeze is still
very regular; but the mornings, from eight to eleven, are very hot. A few
mosquitoes have made their appearance, probably in consequence of the
late rains. Charley killed a Diamond snake, larger than any he had ever
seen before; but he only brought in the fat, of which there was a
remarkable quantity. The Iguanas (Hydrosaurus, Gray) have a slight bluish
tinge about the head and neck; but in the distribution of their colours,
generally resemble H. Gouldii.
Mr. Gilbert found a land crab in the moist ground under a log of wood;
and Mr. Calvert brought me a species of helix of a yellowish green
colour.
Dec. 18.--It was with very great difficulty that we collected our horses
and cattle; but we could not find one of our pack bullocks, which had
concealed himself in the scrub, and, from the unfavourable situation of
our camp, we were obliged to abandon it. Old bullocks, when tired, care
very little about company, and even like to retire to any solitary spot,
where there is good feed and water. Having nearly reached the end of our
stage, we were overtaken by a thunder-storm from the south; which was
followed by another from the west with very heavy rain. This was the
first heavy rain to which we had been exposed, whilst on the day's march;
for thunder-storms did not generally rise till after two o'clock; at
which time we were usually secured in our tents.
The fine lagoons--which I called "Brown's Lagoons" after their
discoverer--and the good feed about them, induced me to stop for the
purpose of killing the fat bullock which Mr. Isaacs had given us, and of
drying it like the charqui of the South Americans; instead of waiting
till Christmas, as we originally intended; especially as we were ignorant
of the character of the country before us. Accordingly, on the 18th at
five o'clock in the morning, it was slaughtered and cut into thin slices;
which, before night, were nearly dried by the powerful heat of an almost
vertical sun. We enjoyed ourselves very much on this occasion, and
feasted luxuriously on fried liver at breakfast, on stuffed heart for
luncheon, and on a fine steak and the kidneys for supper. Those who may
have lived for so long a time as we had upon a reduced fare, will readily
understand with what epicurean delight these meals were discussed.
Dec. 19.--We completed our job, by melting down the fat, with which our
saddles, bridles, and all our leather gear, were well greased. In the
afternoon Mr. Calvert and Charley, who had been sent after the bullock we
had left behind, returned with him. They had found him quietly chewing
the cud, in a Bricklow grove near a small pool of water.
Dec. 20.--Whilst employed in arranging our packs, Murphy and Charley went
out to examine the surrounding country. On their return they informed me
that they had met with a native camp, the inhabitants of which were
probably out hunting, for they had left all their things behind.
Capparis Mitchelii was found in blossom. The cockatoo parrakeet of the
Gwyder River, (Nymphicus Novae Hollandiae, GOULD.), the common white
cockatoo, and the Moreton Bay Rosella parrot, were very numerous. We also
observed the superb warbler, Malurus cyaneus of Sydney; and the
shepherd's companion, or fan-tailed fly-catcher (Rhipidura); both were
frequent. Several rare species of finches were shot: and a species of the
genus Pomatorhinus, a Swan River bird, was seen by Mr. Gilbert. The
latitude of this encampment was found to be 24 degrees 44 minutes 55
seconds.
Dec. 21.--As our meat was not entirely dry, I thought it advisable to
remain another day at this place, which was usefully occupied by packing
the fat into bags made of the hide of the animal. Besides the plants
above-mentioned, a beautiful blue Nymphaea was found growing in the
lagoon; and around it, among the reeds and high cyperaceous plants, a
small labiate, a Gomphrena, the native Chamomile, and a Bellis were
growing.
The days continue very hot. At 5 P.M. we had a thunder-storm from the
southward: but little rain fell. It cleared up at seven o'clock; very
heavy dew in the morning.
Dec. 22.--We travelled to-day about five miles in a north-north-west
direction, and encamped at the creek where Charley and his companion had
seen the huts of the natives, which we found deserted. Our route lay
through a flat country, timbered with true box, (small Acacias forming
the underwood), along a fine lagoon on which were a number of ducks;
farther on, the Bastard box prevailed, with silver-leaved Ironbark, and
patches of Bricklow scrub, of Vitex and of the native lemon. A small tree
(a species of Acacia) was also seen about thirty or forty feet high, with
slightly drooping branches, and lanceolate deep green phyllodia about one
inch.
I reconnoitred with Charley, and found that the creek soon became
enveloped by scrub: to the west and south-west rose ranges of a moderate
elevation, parallel to which we travelled; plains frequently interspersed
with scrub, which became more dense as it approached the foot of the
ranges. From these appearances I determined upon sending my party back to
Brown's Lagoons, to secure water; whilst I should examine the country in
advance, in order to ascertain the extent of the scrub, in which we were
entangled.
Dec. 23--During the night we had a tremendous thunder-storm from the
southward with much rain, which did not cease till after midnight, and
was succeeded by a hurricane from the east. We witnessed a remarkable
meteor, of a fine bluish colour, stretching from E.N.E. to W.S.W. almost
parallel to the thunder-clouds. The moon, a day from its full, to the
eastward, probably produced this phenomenon.
The bower of the bowerbird (Chlamydera maculata, GOULD) was seen in the
scrub; it is made of dry grass, and its approaches at either end were
thickly strewn with snail shells and flint pebbles, which had been
collected by the bird with great industry, but for what purpose we could
not determine. Among the shells we found a Helix of a brownish colour and
of an oval form, approaching that of Bulimus.
Whilst my companions returned to Brown's Lagoons, Mr. Calvert and Brown
remained with me to examine the country. The creek which I followed down,
almost entirely disappeared; but, five miles farther on, its channel was
again observed, as deep as before, and was joined by several
water-courses from the Christmas Ranges. The principal channel of the
creek was lined with a species of Melaleuca, with slightly foliacious
bark. Several species of sedges, and nutritious grasses, grew round the
holes in which the water was constant. At about fifteen miles from the
camp, the creek was joined by that which I had followed for some distance
on the 15th December, and, about three miles farther down, it receives
another considerable tributary; and, at their junction, it is a fine
sheet of water. Here the country begins to open, with large Box-flats
extending on both sides. Two small creeks come in from the scrubby hills
to the eastward, but, at a short distance beyond their junction, almost
the whole channel disappears. Soon after, we came to another creek, to
the left of the first; but it disappeared in the same manner as the
other. We came upon several lagoons, and found some very fine grass: the
scrub reappeared on the rising ground about six miles north from the
large sheet of water. A little farther on, we came to ridges of basaltic
formation, openly timbered with silver-leaved Ironbark, and richly
covered with young grasses and herbs, identical with those of the Darling
Downs. Water holes with fine water were found at the foot of the hills.
Mimosa terminalis was frequent; numerous flights of partridge pigeons
(Geophaps scripta) were also seen.
Dec. 24.--We returned towards the camp, but, through some inattention,
kept too much to the eastward, and passed through a country of an
extremely diversified character, and very different in appearance from
that we had just left. Here we passed an extensive Myal forest, the
finest I had seen, covering the hilly and undulating country,
interspersed with groves of the native lemon tree; a few of which were
still sufficiently in fruit to afford us some refreshment. Occasionally
we met with long stretches of small dead trees, probably killed by bush
fires, alternating with Bricklow thickets: and then again crossed small
plains and patches of open forest ground, which much relieved the
tediousness of the ride through thick scrubs, which we had frequently to
penetrate with both hands occupied in protecting the face from the
branches. We also crossed chains of water-holes surrounded by a coarse
stargrass; these now changed into creeks with deep and irregular beds,
lined with Melaleucas, and now again dwindled into shallow channels,
scarcely to be recognised amidst the surrounding scrub. A week before,
these holes were hopelessly dry; but a recent thunder-storm had filled
them; and had also made the ground soft and heavy, and had called into
life thousands of small frogs, which, by an incessant croaking, testified
their satisfaction at the agreeable change.
Dec. 25.--We returned to Brown's Lagoons, and entered our camp just as
our companions were sitting down to their Christmas dinner of suet
pudding and stewed cockatoos. The day was cloudy and sultry; we had had a
heavy thunder-storm on Christmas eve.
Dec. 26.--During the night, scud passed from the east; in the morning we
had some heavy showers without wind; it cleared up at ten o'clock, and we
took advantage of four hours fair weather to travel on. We again passed
the huts of the natives, and encamped about seven miles farther down the
creek. We were, however, scarcely housed, when heavy showers of rain
began to fall, and rendered the soil, which was a stiff loam, heavy and
boggy.
Dec. 27.--Though we had hobbled our horses with straps and stirrup
leathers, they had strayed, during the night, to the more open country,
where they separated from each other in search of food; and it was not
until after three hours search that Charley found the greater part of
them. We had, however, watched the bullocks during the night, and were
therefore enabled to proceed; which we did as far as the fine sheet of
water before mentioned, when Charley again went in search of the missing
horses, with which he returned after some time.
The showers continued until about 10 o'clock last night; at 3 A. M. the
sky became clear, and continued so through the morning, except an
occasional cloud from the eastward.
Mr. Calvert found a Bauhinia in blossom; which was not only different
from the Bauhinia found afterwards at Comet River, but also from that of
the Mitchell. Mr. Gilbert found a new species of sleeping lizard, with
four lighter stripes on the dark brown ground along the back, and with
dark spots on the sides. Mr. Roper shot some ducks, and I found a species
of Ancylus; besides the species of Limnaea and Paludina, which we had
previously met with.
Dec. 28.--We travelled over the Box-tree flat, until we reached the open
basaltic ridges mentioned on the 23rd December, and kept along their
base. The creek, which had disappeared on the flat, here again formed a
large deep channel, lined with Melaleucas. Hollows existed along the
hills, and water-holes ran in lines parallel to the creek; all now quite
dry; a scrubby forest land alternated with open flats and Bricklow
thickets. Water was very scarce; and having encamped my party, I started
immediately to reconnoitre the country. I followed the creek to the
northward, and found it lined by scrub; but the belt along its west side
was narrow, and beyond it, a fine open undulating country was observed
extending far to the south-west and west, in which direction the loom of
distant ranges was seen. These plains, which had some patches of open
forest land, were, at the request of my companion, Mr. Calvert, named
"Albinia Downs." To the north-west, the mountain with the hummock lay
close before us, throwing out subordinate spurs to the westward. In
riding to the most northerly end of it, I fell in with a small
water-course, which led me to a large creek coming from the south-west
and west-south-west, with fine Casuarinas fringing its banks and forming
a dark tortuous line amongst the light green foliage of the trees on the
neighbouring flats. About six miles lower down, it was joined by the
scrub creek on which we were encamped.
The sandy bed of the creek was entirely dry, and we must have encamped
without water after a long and fatiguing ride, had not a heavy
thunder-shower supplied us; we caught the rain in our pannikins as it
dropt from our extended blankets.
The thunder-storm had passed, and the sun had set, when Brown, my
blackfellow, suddenly threw back the blanket under which we sat, and
pointed out to me a fine comet in a small clear spot of the western sky.
I afterwards learned that this comet had been observed as early as the
1st December; but our constant travelling in level forest land had
prevented us from seeing it before. The creek received the appropriate
name of "Comet Creek."
Dec. 29.--Following the creek down, we found water in chains of ponds,
and watercourses coming from a belt of scrub occupying the ground between
the creek and the mountains. Fine, though narrow, but well-grassed flats
extended along Comet Creek. We observed growing on the creek, the dwarf
Koorajong (Grewia), a small rough-leaved fig tree, a species of Tribulus,
and the native Portulaca. The latter afforded us an excellent salad; but
was much more acid than I had found it in other parts of the country,
where I had occasionally tasted it. The native melon of the Darling Downs
and of the Gwyder, grew here also. Of animals, we saw several kangaroos,
emus, native companions, and wallabies.
During our return to the camp, a hot wind blew from the south-west across
Albinia Downs: the great extent of which sufficiently accounted for the
high temperature. The only thermometer I had was unfortunately broken
shortly after we started; this loss was severely felt by me throughout
the journey, as we had no means of ascertaining the exact temperature. I
made the latitude of our camp at Scrub Creek to be 24 degrees 25 minutes
42 seconds.
Dec. 30.--We travelled about seven miles to the north-east, crossed Comet
Creek, and encamped at some water-holes, in a small creek coming out of
the scrub below the range.
Our sportsmen gave chase to ten emus and a kangaroo on Albinia Downs: but
the rottenness of the ground prevented their capture: rather tantalizing
to hungry stomachs! I examined the basaltic rock on several spots, and
found that it contained numerous crystals of Peridot. The sand in the bed
of the river contains very minute particles of igneous rock. The slopes
of the range of Comet Creek are composed of rich black soil, in some
places without trees, in others openly timbered. Stones of a light
coloured rock, with crystals of augite, pebbles of sandstone, of
conglomerate, and of quartz, are scattered over the ground, or imbedded
in the loamy beds of the water-courses. The belt of scrub at the foot of
the slopes runs out in narrow strips towards the river, and these are
separated by box-tree thickets, and open box-tree flats. A pea-plant,
with ternate leaves, and fine yellow blossoms, was found near our camp:
Portulaca was very abundant. The bronze-winged pigeon lived here on the
red fruit of Rhagodia, and the black berries of a species of Jasmine; and
seems also to pick occasionally the seed vessel of a Ruellia, which is
very frequent on all the flats of Comet Creek.
During the night, a thunder-storm passed to the southward, but did not
reach us; at 10 o'clock we observed very vivid lightning to the westward:
the wind was from the north and north-east.
Dec. 31.--We travelled along the banks of the creek towards the
north-east, but scarcely accomplished six miles, in consequence of its
tortuous course. The water-hole which I had found when reconnoitring, was
dried up, and we were glad to find a shallow pool, of which our thirsty
cattle took immediate possession. The sand in the bed of the creek looked
moist, but no water was found, after digging to a depth of five feet. The
immediate neighbourhood of the creek was in some places open, in others
covered with a shrubby Acacia, with long glaucous, and rather fleshy
phyllodia. On both sides of the high banks are deep hollows, and chains
of ponds, surrounded with reeds; but now quite dry, and covered with the
dead shells of Limnaea, Paludina, and Unio.
Mr. Roper found an Agama, with light grey on the back, and a yellow
belly. A small Chlamy-dophorus, (Jew lizard of the Hunter) was also seen,
and is probably identical with the animal inhabiting the banks of that
river. Brown accompanied me to reconnoitre the country; and we had
scarcely travelled two miles along the creek, when my attention was
attracted by the remains of a hut, consisting of a ridge pole, and two
forked stakes, about six feet high, both having been cut with a sharp
iron tomahawk. Neither of us doubted that this was the work of a white
man, probably a runaway from the settlement at Moreton Bay. A few miles
farther we came to an anabranch of the creek, which turned considerably
to the westward. I followed it, and found a shallow watercourse that came
out of the scrub, which I also examined in search of water. It led me to
another deep channel within the scrub, which looked unusually green, and
contained some very large water-holes; but there was no water in them.
Turning round one of its bends, we saw a column of thick smoke rising
from its left bank, near a fine pool of water. It was evident that a camp
of natives was before us; we rode cautiously up to the water, near which
we saw their numerous tracks, and then stopped to look around, but
without dismounting. We were, however, very soon discovered by one of
them, who, after staring at us for a moment, uttered a cry, resembling
the word "whitefellow," "whitefellow," and ran off, followed by the whole
party. We then rode up to the camp, and found their dinner ready,
consisting of two eggs of the brush turkey, roasted opossums, bandicoots,
and iguanas. In their "dillis," (small baskets) were several roots or
tubers of an oblong form, about an inch in length, and half an inch
broad, of a sweet taste, and of an agreeable flavour, even when uncooked;
there were also balls of pipe-clay to ornament their persons for
corroborris. Good opossum cloaks, kangaroo nets, and dillis neatly worked
of koorajong bark, were strewed about; there were also some spears, made
of the Bricklow Acacia: all were forgotten in the suddenness of their
retreat. I could not resist the temptation of tasting one of the eggs,
which was excellent; but, as they seemed to have trusted to our
generosity, I left every thing in its place, and departed. Brown thought
that one of them looked like a half-caste, and, as they had called us, as
far as we understood, "whitefellows," I felt confirmed in my supposition,
either that a white man was with them, or had lived among them very
recently. I returned to the creek, in order to find another water-hole
with water; but did not succeed, and had to encamp without it. During the
night we heard the noise of a frog, "brrr, brrr;" probably a new species,
for we had never heard that croak before. It seemed, however, to frighten
Brown, who, like all blackfellows, is very timid after night-fall.
Yesterday we met with a new leguminous shrub. It belongs to the section
Cassia, and has a long pinnate leaf, the leaflets an inch long, and half
an inch broad. Its pods were about a foot long, half an inch broad; and
every seed was surrounded by a fleshy spongy tissue, which, when dry,
gave to the pod a slightly articulate appearance. The seeds, when young,
had an agreeable taste, and the tissue, when dry, was pleasantly
acidulous, and was eaten by some of my companions without any ill effect,
whilst others, with myself, were severely purged. To day I found the same
plant in form of a tree, about thirty feet high, with a short stem, and
long spreading shady branches.
CHAPTER IV
SWARMS OF COCKATOOS--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER REDUCED--NATIVE
FAMILY--THE MACKENZIE--COAL--NATIVES SPEAKING A DIFFERENT IDIOM--MOUNT
STEWART--BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE WAY BACK TO THE CAMP--FIND OUR PARTY
AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH DAY--NEUMAN'S CREEK--ROPER'S PEAK--CALVERT'S
PEAK--GILBERT'S DOME--GREAT WANT OF WATER.
Jan. 1, 1845.--After a ride of about four miles down the creek, we came
to a deep hole of good water, that had been filled by the late
thunder-storms, the traces of which, however, had disappeared every where
else. I found a red Passion flower, with three-lobed leaves, the lobes
rounded: it was twining round the trunk of a gum tree, and rooted in a
light sandy alluvial soil. A new species of Bauhinia, with large white
blossoms, growing in small groves, or scattered in the scrub,
particularly near the creeks, was conspicuous for its elegance, and was
the greatest ornament of this part of the country. It is a tree about
twenty-five feet high, with long drooping branches; the foliage is of a
rich green colour, and affords a fine shade. A climbing Capparis, with
broad lanceolate leaves, had also large white showy blossoms; and a fine
specimen of this plant was seen growing in the fork of an old box tree,
about twelve or fifteen feet from the ground; it was in fruit, but
unfortunately was not yet ripe. There was also another species of the
same genus, with yellow blossoms, in other respects very similar in
appearance to the first. The white cedar was still abundant. When I
returned to the camp, I found my companions busily engaged in straining
the mud, which had remained in the water-hole after our horses and cattle
had drunk and rolled in it. Messrs. Gilbert and Calvert had discovered a
few quarts of water in the hollow stump of a tree; and Mr. Roper and
Charley had driven the horses and cattle to another water-hole, about two
miles off. Our latitude was 24 degrees 16 minutes 9 seconds.
Jan. 2.--I moved my camp to the water-hole, near which I had met with the
natives, and halted at the outside of a Bauhinia grove. On visiting the
spot where the blacks were encamped, it appeared that they had returned
and carried away all their things, probably well contented that we had
not taken more than the turkey's egg. The mosquitoes were a little
troublesome after sunset and in the early part of the night; but, after
that time, it was too cold for them. The flies were a much greater
nuisance; at times absolutely intolerable, from the pertinacity with
which they clung to the corners of our eyes, to the lips, to the ears,
and even to the sores on our fingers. The wind was generally from the
eastward during the morning, with cumuli; but these disappeared in the
afternoon.
Brown found a crab, (a species of Gecarcinus?) the carapace about an inch
and a quarter long, and one and a half broad, the left claws much larger
than the right, the antepenultimate joint having a strong tooth on the
upper side; it is found in moist places and in the lagoons, and, when
these are dried up, it retires under logs and large stones.
Mr. Gilbert saw a large grey wallabi, and a small one which he thought
was new. Another species of Agama was found, differing from the former by
its general grey colour, with black spots on the back.
Jan. 3.--The night was clear; a fine easterly wind prevailed during the
morning, with cumuli, which disappeared towards noon, when the sky became
cloudless. Thunder-storms generally follow a very sultry calm morning. We
travelled about ten miles in a N.N.E. direction, and came to the farthest
water-hole I had seen when out reconnoitring. We passed in our journey
through a very scrubby country, opening occasionally into fine flats
thinly timbered with true box, which was at that time in blossom. I
noticed a small tree (Santalum oblongatum, R. Br.), very remarkable for
having its branches sometimes slightly drooping, and at other times
erect, with membranous glaucous elliptical leaves, from an inch to an
inch and a half long, and three-quarters broad, with very indistinct
nerves, and producing a small purple fruit, of very agreeable taste. I
had seen this tree formerly at the Gwyder, and in the rosewood scrubs
about Moreton Bay, and I also found it far up to the northward, in the
moderately open Vitex and Bricklow scrubs.
Several small lizards (Tiliqua), probably only varieties of the same
species, amused us with the quickness of their motions when hunting for
insects on the sunny slopes near the water-holes, and on the bark of the
fallen trees; some were striped, others spotted, and there were some of a
simple brownish iridescent colour. Our latitude was 24 degrees 6 minutes
36 seconds.
Jan. 4.--Brown accompanied me on my usual errand, to find, if possible, a
larger supply of water, on which we might fall back, if the creek did not
soon change its character. The scrub came close to the banks of the
creek, but was occasionally interrupted by basaltic ridges with open
forest, stretching to the westward. These ridges were on all sides
surrounded with scrub, which did not flourish where the basaltic
formation prevailed. Broad but shallow channels, deepening from time to
time into large water-holes, follow in a parallel direction the many
windings of the creek, with which they have occasionally a small
communication. They seem to be the receptacles of the water falling
within the scrub during the rainy season: their banks are sometimes very
high and broken, and the bed is of a stiff clay, like that of the scrub,
and is scattered over with pebbles of quartz and conglomerate. Whilst
these Melaleuca channels keep at a distance varying from one to three
miles from the creek, winding between the slight elevations of a
generally flat country--long shallow hollows and a series of lagoons
exist near the creek, from which they are separated by a berg, and are
bounded on the other side by a slight rise of the ground. The hollows are
generally without trees, but are covered with a stiff stargrass; and they
frequently spread out into melon flats, covered with true Box. It is
difficult to travel along the creek, especially with pack bullocks, as
the scrub frequently comes close up to its banks; but the hollows, during
the dry season, are like roads. In the channels within the scrub I found
a large supply of water, in holes surrounded by sedges and a broad-leaved
Polygonum, amongst which grew a species of Abutilon; the neighbouring dry
channel was one beautiful carpet of verdure. In the scrub I found a plant
belonging to the Amaryllideae (Calostemma luteum?) with a cluster of fine
yellow blossoms. Flights of ducks were on the water, and scores of little
birds were fluttering through the grasses and sedges, or hopping over the
moist mud in pursuit of worms and insects. The water-holes were about six
miles from our camp. I continued my ride about four miles farther along
the creek, where I found the scrub had retired, and was replaced by an
open silver-leaved Ironbark forest, in which the rich green feed relieved
our eyes from the monotonous grey of the scrub, and quickened the steps
of our horses. Here also basaltic ridges approached the creek, and even
entered into its bed; among them were several fine water-holes. In our
return to the camp we found abundance of water in the lagoons near the
river, corresponding to the water-holes within the scrub. This local
occurrence of water depends either upon thunder-storms favouring some
tracts more than others, or upon the country here being rather more
hilly, which allows the rainwater to collect in deep holes at the foot of
the slopes.
Jan. 5.--We moved down to the water-holes of the basaltic ridges, being
about nine miles in a N.N.W. direction from our last camp.
At three o'clock a.m. clouds formed very rapidly over the whole
sky--which had been clear during the previous part of the night--and
threatened us with wet. In the morning some few drops fell, with slight
casterly winds; it cleared up, however, about nine o'clock a.m. with a
northerly breeze.
Marsilea grows everywhere on the flats; and a fine little pea plant with
a solitary red blossom, was found amongst the basaltic rocks round the
water-hole. We observed, growing along the creek, another species of
Portulaca, with linear fleshy leaves, erect stem, and small yellow
flowers; and a half-shrubby Malvaccous plant, with small clustered yellow
blossoms: the latter is common at the outside of scrubs in the Moreton
Bay district. We also remarked, within the scrub, a small tree, with
bright-green foliage, and three-winged capsules slightly united at the
base; and another small tree, with deep-green coloured leaves, and
two-winged capsules united in all their length; the last is nearly allied
to Dodonaea.
I never before saw nor heard so many cockatoos as I did at Comet Creek.
Swarms of them preceded us for one or two miles, from tree to tree,
making the air ring with their incessant screams, and then returning in
long flights to their favourite haunts, from which we had disturbed them.
We saw four kangaroos; and shot some bronze-winged pigeons; in the crop
of one I found a small Helix with a long spire,--a form I do not remember
ever having seen before in the colony. A considerable number of small
brown snakes were living in the water-hole; they were generally seen in
the shallow water with their heads above the surface, but, at our
approach, dived into the deepest part of the hole. Our daily allowance of
flour was now reduced to three pounds. Our provisions disappear rapidly,
and the wear and tear of our clothes and harness is very great; but, as
our wants increase, our desires become more easily satisfied. The green
hide furnishes ample means to preserve our shoes, by covering them with
mocassins, and with materials for repairing the harness. The latitude of
this camp was 23 degrees 59 minutes 6 seconds.
Jan. 6.--Leaving my companions at the camp well provided with both grass
and water, I followed the creek, with Brown, in expectation of a long
ride, as Messrs. Gilbert and Roper had been forward about nine miles in
search of water, but without finding any. We very soon left the open
country, and entered the vilest scrub we had ever before encountered. The
parallel lines of lagoons disappeared, and the banks of the creek became
very broken by gullies, so that the stiff soil of the neighbouring scrub,
not being intercepted by lagoons, is washed by heavy rains into the bed
of the creek, which was no longer sandy, but inclined to the formation of
water-holes, the clay rendering it impervious to water. The Casuarina,
which likes a light sandy soil, disappeared at the same time, and was
succeeded by the narrow-leaved Melaleuca. The flooded-gum, however, kept
its place, and frequently attained to a great size. About twelve miles
from the camp, a small water-hole appeared in the bed of the creek. This
was the first we had met with while travelling along its banks a distance
of seventy miles; but, in proceeding about four miles farther, we passed
a succession of fine water-holes well supplied with water; and others
were found in the adjoining creeks. Afterwards, however, the water
suddenly disappeared again; and for eight miles farther its bed was
entirely dry, although fine grass was growing in it. We had every
prospect of passing the night without water, as the sun was sinking fast;
but we fortunately reached a small hole before dark, containing a little
water, which we had to share with our horses, with a small brown snake,
and with a large flight of bronze-winged pigeons; the latter, surprised
at our presence, first alighted on the neighbouring trees to observe us,
and then hurried down to take their evening draught.
Jan. 7.--I travelled farther down the river, and again came, after a ride
of three miles, into a well-watered country, but still occupied by scrub;
in which the Capparis, with its large white sweet-scented blossoms, was
very frequent; but its sepals, petals, and stamens dropped off at the
slightest touch. Its fruit was like a small apple covered with warts, and
its pungent seeds were imbedded in a yellow pulp, not at all disagreeable
to eat. At last the scrub ceased, and, over an open rise on the right
side of Comet Creek, a range of blue mountains was discovered by my
companion, promising a continuation of good country. At this time a fine
water-hole was at hand, and invited us to stop and make our luncheon on
dried beef and a pot of tea. Whilst I was preparing the tea, Brown went
to shoot pigeons; and, whilst thus employed, he was surprised by the
cooee of a Blackfellow; and, on looking round, he saw one on the opposite
bank of the creek making signs to him, as if to ask in what direction we
were going. Brown pointed down the creek; the black then gave him to
understand that he was going upward to join his wife. We started about
half-an-hour afterwards, and met with him, about two miles up the creek,
with his wife, his daughter, and his son. He was a fine old man, but he,
as well as his family, were excessively frightened; they left all their
things at the fire, as if offering them to us, but readily accepted two
pigeons, which had been shot by Brown. We asked them for water (yarrai)
which, according to what we could understand from their signs, was
plentiful lower down the creek. In returning homewards we cut off
considerable angles of the creek, and passed through a much finer and
more open country. On its left bank we passed a scrub creek containing
magnificent lagoons. At my arrival in the camp, I was informed that
natives had been close at hand, although none had showed themselves.
Jan. 8.--I moved my camp about eight miles to the northward, and halted
at a fine water-hole in a scrub creek joining Comet Creek. A pretty
little diver was amusing himself on the water. The country is very rich
in game. Kangaroos and wallabies are very frequent; several brush turkeys
were seen, and the partridge and bronze-winged pigeons are very
plentiful. Our latitude was 23 degrees 51 minutes.
Jan. 9.--In travelling down to the water-hole, where we had met the
Blackfellow and his family, we kept a little too much to the westward, in
hope of finding a more open country; instead, however, of an improvement,
we encountered sandy hills covered with a dense low scrub and
cypress-pine. The latter almost invariably grows on the slight sandstone
elevations in a scrubby country. After surmounting many difficulties, we
came upon a broad scrub creek, in the dry bed of which we travelled down
to Comet Creek, which we followed, and at last reached our intended
camping place. Our cattle and luggage had suffered severely, and we
devoted the next day to sundry repairs. The weather was very hot: the
night clear. Our latitude was 23 degrees 41 minutes 14 seconds.
Jan. 10.--To prevent unnecessary loss of time by my reconnoitring
excursions, and to render them less fatiguing to myself, I arranged that
both the blacks should go with me, in order that I might send one back
from the first favourable camping place, to bring the party on, whilst I
continued to explore the country with the other. Under this arrangement,
therefore, I went forward, and, following the creek, it was found to
sweep to the eastward, round a high plain of rich black soil, and covered
with luxuriant vegetation. This plain is basaltic, but, in the valley of
the creek, sandstone crops out below it. The slopes from the plain to the
creek are steep, and torn by deep gullies, which made travelling very
fatiguing. As the creek again turned to the west and north-west, the
water-holes increased both in size and number, although the flats within
the valley were limited and intersected by watercourses. I sent Charley
back when we were about seven miles N.W. by N. from our camp, and
proceeded with Brown down the creek, which, at about four miles farther,
to my inexpressible delight, joined a river coming from the west and
north-west, and flowing to the east and north-east. It was not, however,
running, but formed a chain of small lakes, from two to three and even
eight miles in length, and frequently from fifty to one hundred yards
broad, offering to our view the finest succession of large sheets of
water we had seen since leaving the Brisbane. Its course continued
through a very deep and winding valley, bounded by high but generally
level land. The gullies going down to the river were generally covered
with a belt of thick scrub, as was also the high land nearest to it; but,
farther off, the country appeared to be more open, plains alternating
with open forest land, but yet, in places, much occupied by tracts of
almost impervious scrub of various extent. We met frequent traces of the
natives, who had recently gone down the river, having previously burned
the grass, leaving very little for our horses and cattle. At 8 o'clock
P.M. a fine strong northerly breeze came up the river, flowing along its
broad open valley, and which I supposed to be the sea breeze. This
supposition was somewhat confirmed by a similar breeze occurring at the
same time on the following evening.
The plains are basaltic, and occasionally covered with pebbles of white
and iron-coloured quartz and conglomerate, and are in the vicinity of
slight elevations, which are probably composed of sandstone and
conglomerate, and usually covered with low scrub and cypress-pine.
Sandstone crops out in the gullies of the valley, in horizontal strata,
some of which are hard and good for building, others like the blue clay
beds of Newcastle, with the impressions of fern-leaves identical with
those of that formation. At the junction of Comet Creek and the river, I
found water-worn fragments of good coal, and large trunks of trees
changed into ironstone. I called this river the "Mackenzie," in honour of
Sir Evan Mackenzie, Bart., as a small acknowledgment of my gratitude for
the very great assistance which he rendered me in the preparations for my
expedition. Farther down the river, the country became better watered,
even at a distance from the river; some small creeks, winding down
between scrubby sandstone hills, were full of water, and a chain of fine
lagoons was crossed, covered with splendid blue Nymphaeas. Large coveys
of partridge-pigeons rose from the burnt grass as we passed along, and
ducks and pelicans were numerous on the stretches of water in the bed of
the river. Heaps of fresh-water muscles lined the water-holes, which were
teeming with fish, apparently of considerable size, as their splashing
startled me several times during the night, and made me believe, for the
moment, that a large tribe of natives were bathing.
A very stiff high grass became very general along the river. On the
plains there were fields of native carrots, now dry; also of vervain and
burr. The long-podded cassia was plentiful, and its young seeds tasted
well, but considerably affected the bowels.
Cumuli passed from the north-east during the morning: the afternoon was
clear, and the night bright.
When I returned to the camp on the 11th January, my companions told me,
that upon their journey across the high plains they had observed a high
range to the north-west.
Jan. 12.--I removed my camp down Comet Creek, and followed the Mackenzie
for a few miles, as far as it was easy travelling along its bank. Comet
Creek joins the Mackenzie in a very acute angle; the direction of the
latter being east, and the course of the former, in its lower part,
north-west. Our anglers caught several fine fishes and an eel, in the
water-holes of the Mackenzie. The former belonged to the Siluridae, and
had four fleshy appendages on the lower lip, and two on the upper; dorsal
fin 1 spine 6 rays, and an adipose fin, pectoral 1 spine 8 rays; ventral
6 rays; anal 17 rays; caudal 17-18 rays; velvety teeth in the upper and
lower jaws, and in the palatal bones. Head flat, belly broad; back of a
greenish silver-colour; belly silvery white; length of the body 15-20
inches. It made a singular noise when taken out of the water.
We found here Unios of a fine pink and purple colour inside the valves,
and a new species of Cyclas with longitudinal ribs. Small black ants, and
little flies with wings crossing each other, annoy us very much, the one
creeping all over our bodies and biting us severely, and the other
falling into our soup and tea, and covering our meat; but the strong
night-breeze protects us from the mosquitoes. A pretty lizard (Tiliqua)
of small size, with yellowish spots on a brown ground, was caught, and
seemed to be plentiful here about. The Acacia, with very long linear
drooping leaves, that had been observed at the Dawson, re-appeared both
on Comet Creek and the banks of the Mackenzie. Our latitude was 23
degrees 33 minutes 38 seconds.
Jan. 13.--We travelled about nine miles E.N.E. over the high land, and
through open forest land, and several plains skirted on both sides by
scrub. I observed a new species of Flindersia, a small tree about thirty
feet high, with thin foliage and very regular branches, forming a spire.
The latitude was 23 degrees 29 minutes.
Jan. 14.--After travelling about three miles in a north-easterly
direction along the banks of the river--having, at about a mile from our
camp, crossed a good-sized creek on its left bank--the river took a
sudden bend to the westward, and a large creek coming from the northward,
joined it almost at a right angle to its course. As we proceeded, we came
suddenly upon two black women hurrying out of the water, but who, on
reaching a distance in which they thought themselves safe, remained
gazing at us as we slowly and peaceably passed by. In the bed of the
river, which was here broad and sandy, a bean was gathered, bearing
racemes of pink blossoms, and spreading its long slender stem over the
ground, or twining it round shrubs and trees: its pods were from three to
five inches long, and about half an inch broad, containing from four to
six seeds, very similar to the horse-bean. This plant was afterwards
found growing in the sandy beds, or along the bergs of almost all the
broad rivers, and was always a welcome sight; for the seeds, after
roasting and pounding them, afforded us a very agreeable substitute for
coffee.
We passed some very high cliffs, which showed a fine geological section
of horizontal layers of sandstone and coal-slate. There were also some
layers of very good coal, but the greater part of those visible were of a
slaty character. Nodules of Ironstone were very frequent in the
sandstone.
After having fixed upon a place to pitch the tent, and after some
refreshment, I started with my two black companions upon a reconnoitring
excursion along the course of the river, which made several large bends,
though its general direction was to the north-east. We passed over some
very fine flats of Bastard-box, silver-leaved Ironbark, and white gum,
with a few scattered Acacia-trees, remarkable for their drooping foliage,
and mentioned under the date 22nd December. Farther on, we came again to
scrub, which uniformly covered the edge of the high land towards the
river. Here, within the scrub, on the side towards the open country we
found many deserted camps of the natives, which, from their position,
seemed to have been used for shelter from the weather, or as
hiding-places from enemies: several places had evidently been used for
corroborris, and also for fighting.
On a White-gum, which has long lanceolate green leaves, I found a species
of Loranthus, with leaves resembling those of the silver-leaved Ironbark
(Eucalyptus pulverulentus). Having reached a point down the river, in
about lat. 23 degrees 18 minutes, from which some low ranges to the N.W.
became visible, I returned to the camp. At the point where it turned, a
dyke of basalt traverses the river. The country still maintained its
favourable character, and the river contained fine sheets of water
similar to those already described, on one of which a pelican floated
undisturbed by our presence. Large heaps of muscle-shells, which have
given food to successive generations of the natives, cover the steep
sloping banks of the river, and indicate that this part of the country is
very populous. The tracks of the natives were well beaten, and the
fire-places in their camps numerous. The whole country had been on fire;
smouldering logs, scattered in every direction, were often rekindled by
the usual night breeze, and made us think that the Blackfellows were
collecting in numbers around us,--and more particularly on the opposite
side of the river; added to which, the incessant splashing of numerous
large fishes greatly contributed to augment our fears. As a matter of
precaution, therefore, we tied our horses near our sleeping-place, and
gathered the grass which grew along the edge of the water for them to
eat; and it was not till daylight that our alarm vanished.
Jan. 15.--Having now ascertained, beyond a doubt, that the Mackenzie
flowed to the north-east, I returned to the camp, resolved upon leaving
it and renewing my course to the west-north-west and north-west; but, as
it was extremely doubtful whether we should find water in travelling
across the country without a leading watercourse, and as we had failed in
procuring a sufficient quantity of game, I determined to take this
favourable opportunity of killing a bullock before leaving the river.
Jan. 16.--On returning, we found our party encamped about four miles
lower down the river than where I had left them. I then removed them to a
more convenient spot about two miles still lower down (lat. 23 degrees 21
minutes 30 seconds). Just at the moment we were preparing to shoot the
bullock, we heard the cooee of a native, and in a short time two men were
seen approaching and apparently desirous of having a parley. Accordingly,
I went up to them; the elder, a well made man, had his left front tooth
out, whilst the younger had all his teeth perfect; he was of a muscular
and powerful figure, but, like the generality of Australian aborigines,
had rather slender bones; he had a splendid pair of moustachios, but his
beard was thin. They spoke a language entirely different from that of the
natives of Darling Downs, but "yarrai" still meant water. Charley, who
conversed with them for some time, told me that they had informed him, as
well as he could understand, that the Mackenzie flowed to the north-east.
Brown found an empty seed-vessel of the Nelumbium, in their camp. At
sunset we killed our bullock, and during the 17th and 18th occupied
ourselves in cutting up the meat, drying it in the sun, frying the fat,
preparing the hide, and greasing our harness. Charley, in riding after
the horses, came to some fine lagoons, which were surrounded by a deep
green belt of Nelumbiums. This plant grows, with a simple tap root, in
the deep soft mud, bearing one large peltate leaf on a leaf stalk, about
eight feet high, and from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter, the
flower-stalk being of the same length or even longer, crowned with a pink
flower resembling that of a Nymphaea, but much larger: its seed-vessel is
a large cone, with perpendicular holes in its cellular tissue, containing
seeds, about three quarters of an inch in length. We found the following
shells in the river, viz.; two species of Melania, a Paludina, the
lanceolate Limnaea, a cone-shaped Physa (?), a Cyclas with longitudinal
ribs, and the Unio before described. Murphy shot an Ostioglossum, a
Malacopterygious fish, about three feet long, with very large scales,
each scale having a pink spot. We afterwards found this fish in the
waters flowing into the Gulf of Carpentaria; both on its eastern and
western sides: and, according to the natives of Port Essington, to whom I
showed the dried specimen, it is also found in the permanent water-holes
of the Cobourg peninsula.
Jan. 18.--Leaving my party to complete the process of drying and packing
the charqui, I started with my two black companions to examine the
country to the north-west. After passing the gullies in the immediate
neighbourhood of the river, we came to sandstone ridges covered with an
almost impenetrable scrub; chiefly composed of stiff and prickly shrubs,
many of them dead, with dry branches filling the intervals. As no grass
grew on the poor soil, the bush-fires--those scavengers of the
forest--are unable to enter and consume the dead wood, which formed the
principal obstacle to our progress. Difficult, however, as it was to
penetrate such thickets with pack-bullocks, I had no choice left, and
therefore proceeded in the same direction. In a short time, we reached an
open Bricklow scrub containing many dry water-holes, which, farther on,
united into a watercourse. We passed a creek flowing to the eastward to
join the Mackenzie, and continued our route through patches of Bricklow
scrub, alternating with Bastard-box forest, and open Vitex scrub, in
which the Moreton Bay ash was very plentiful. About eight miles from our
camp, we came upon an open forest of narrow-leaved Ironbark (E.
resinifera) and Bastard-box, covering gentle slopes, from which shallow
well-grassed hollows descended to the westward. Coming again on scrub,
and following it down in a westerly direction, we came to a dry creek;
and found water in holes along the scrub. Considering this a favourable
place for the camp, I sent Charley back, to guide my party through the
scrub; whilst I proceeded with Brown to examine the creek upwards, to the
north-west. After a ride of about five miles, during which several fine
lagoons were seen, we reached a prominent hill of sandstone formation,
surrounded by a most beautiful, open, silver-leaved Ironbark forest,
changing occasionally into plains without a tree. I ascended the hill,
and obtained a very extensive view from its summit. A range of peaks bore
N. 57 degrees W.; another range, with undulating outline, was seen to the
south-east; and another less prominent range bore N. 45 degrees W. The
hill is in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes, and bears the name of Mount
Stewart, in compliment to Mr. Stewart, veterinary surgeon of Sydney, to
whom I am indebted for great assistance and most valuable advice.
Towards the north-east, the country appeared to be very level, with only
one low ridge, apparently at a great distance. To the south, and also to
the west, some long-stretched flat-topped hills were visible, several
extending as far as the eye could reach. I continued my ride in the
direction of the range of peaks to the north-west, over an undulating
country of varied character, now extending in fine downs and plains, now
covered with belts of thick Bricklow scrub, with occasional ridges of
open silver-leaved Ironbark forest. Among the latter was a rather stunted
gum-tree, with a black scaly butt; it was very frequent, and greatly
resembled the Moreton Bay ash. The numerous watercourses which I crossed,
were all dry; and, when the approach of night compelled us to select a
camping place, which we did in a small grove of Bricklow, we should have
been without water, had not a thunder-storm with light showers of rain,
enabled us to collect about a quart of it to make some tea. The next
morning we continued our examination, passing over a country of scrub,
plain, and forest land; and made our breakfast, and watered our horses,
at a small pool of water that was collected in a hole of a little creek,
after the last night's thunder-storm. About four miles from this spot, we
again found permanent water, near the scrub; and, at three miles farther
on, crossed a fine creek, with a reedy bed, along which lightly timbered
flats extended; and, about six miles to the W. N. W., we found another
creek, separated from the former by openly timbered ridges, and
occasional patches of scrub. The flats along this creek and its
tributaries were covered with the most luxuriant grass; but are without
permanent water, although at present supplied by the late thunder-storms.
Brown gave chase to an emu with several young ones, but did not succeed
in capturing any of them.
We now commenced our return to the camp, and, being impatient to get on,
put our horses into a canter; the consequence of which was that we lost
our way, and were ignorant as to which side we had left the tracks.
Thinking, however, that Mount Stewart would guide us, when we should come
in sight of it, I kept a south-easterly course, which soon brought us
into a thick Bricklow scrub. In passing the large flats of the last
creek, which was here full of fine reedy water-holes, we observed a
native; and Brown cooeed to him, and by a sign requested him to wait for
us: but he was so frightened, by the sudden appearance of two men
cantering towards him, that he took to his heels, and soon disappeared in
the neighbouring scrub. We rode the whole day through a Bricklow thicket,
which, in only three or four places, was interrupted by narrow strips of
open country, along creeks on which fine flooded-gums were growing. The
density of the scrub, which covered an almost entirely level country,
prevented our seeing farther than a few yards before us, so that we
passed our landmark, and, when night approached, and the country became
more open, we found ourselves in a part of the country totally unknown to
us. At the outside of the scrub, however, we were cheered by the sight of
some large lagoons, on whose muddy banks there were numerous tracts of
emus and kangaroos. In a recently deserted camp of the Aborigines, we
found an eatable root, like the large tubers of Dahlia, which we greedily
devoured, our appetite being wonderfully quickened by long abstinence and
exercise. Brown fortunately shot two pigeons; and, whilst we were
discussing our welcome repast, an emu, probably on its way to drink,
approached the lagoon, but halted when it got sight of us, then walked
slowly about, scrutinizing us with suspicious looks, and, when Brown
attempted to get near it, trotted off to a short distance, and stopped
again, and continued to play this tantalizing trick until we were tired;
when, mounting our horses, we proceeded on our way. Supposing, from the
direction of the waters, that we had left our former tracks to the left,
I turned to the north-east to recover them; but it soon became very dark,
and a tremendous thunder-storm came down upon us. We were then on a high
box-tree ridge, in view of a thick scrub; we hobbled our horses, and
covered ourselves with our blankets; but the storm was so violent, that
we were thoroughly drenched. As no water-holes were near us, we caught
the water that ran from our blankets; and, as we were unable to rekindle
our fire, which had been extinguished by the rain, we stretched our
blankets over some sticks to form a tent, and notwithstanding our wet and
hungry condition, our heads sank wearily on the saddles--our usual bush
pillow--and we slept soundly till morning dawned. We now succeeded in
making a fire, so that we had a pot of tea and a pigeon between us. After
this scanty breakfast, we continued our course to the north-east. Brown
thought himself lost, got disheartened, grumbled and became exceedingly
annoying to me; but I could not help feeling for him, as he complained of
severe pain in his legs. We now entered extensive Ironbark flats, which
probably belong to the valley of the Mackenzie. Giving our position every
consideration, I determined upon returning to the mountains at which we
had turned, and took a north-west course. The country was again most
wretched, and at night we almost dropped from our saddles with fatigue.
Another pigeon was divided between us, but our tea was gone. Oppressed by
hunger, I swallowed the bones and the feet of the pigeon, to allay the
cravings of my stomach. A sleeping lizard with a blunt tail and knobby
scales, fell into our hands, and was of course roasted and greedily
eaten. Brown now complained of increased pain in his feet, and lost all
courage. "We are lost, we are lost," was all he could say. All my words
and assurances, all my telling him that we might be starved for a day or
two, but that we should most certainly find our party again, could not do
more than appease his anxiety for a few moments. The next morning, the
21st, we proceeded, but kept a little more to the westward, and crossed a
fine openly timbered country; but all the creeks went either to the east
or to the north. At last, after a ride of about four miles, Brown
recognized the place where we had breakfasted on the 19th, when all his
gloom and anxiety disappeared at once. I then returned on my south-east
course, and arrived at the camp about one o'clock in the afternoon; my
long absence having caused the greatest anxiety amongst my companions. I
shall have to mention several other instances of the wonderful quickness
and accuracy with which Brown as well as Charley were able to recognize
localities which they had previously seen. The impressions on their
retina seem to be naturally more intense than on that of the European;
and their recollections are remarkably exact, even to the most minute
details. Trees peculiarly formed or grouped, broken branches, slight
clevations of the ground--in fact, a hundred things, which we should
remark only when paying great attention to a place--seem to form a kind
of Daguerreotype impression on their minds, every part of which is
readily recollected.
I rejoined my party at the creek which comes from Mount Stewart. The
natives had approached Mr. Gilbert when out shooting, with a singular,
but apparently friendly, noise: "Ach! Ach! Ach!" They had heard the cooce
of my blackfellow Charley, and thought Mr. Gilbert wanted them; but, as
he was alone, he thought it prudent to retire to the camp.
The thunder-storm, which we experienced on the night of the 19th, had
completely changed the aspect of the country round Mount Stewart. All the
melon-holes of the scrub, all the ponds along the creeks, all the
water-holes in the beds of the creeks, were full of water; the creek at
which we encamped, was running; the grass looked fresh and green; the
ground, previously rotten, was now boggy, and rendered travelling rather
difficult; but we were always at home, for we found water and grass
everywhere.
The days from the 17th to the 23rd were exceedingly hot, but, during the
early morning and the evening, the air was delightfully cool. Light
casterly and northerly winds stirred during the day. Cumuli passed from
the same quarters; and generally gathered during the afternoon, and
became very heavy. The thunder-storms veered round from the west by the
north to the eastward. The nights of the 21st, 22nd, and 23rd were bright
and cold, with heavy dew. On the morning of the 23rd we had misty, loose,
confluent clouds, travelling slowly from the north-east, with some drops
of rain. I was now convinced that the rainy season had set in near the
sea coast; for the clouds which came from that direction, had evidently
been charged with rain; but, in passing over a large tract of dry
country, they were exhausted of their moisture, and the north-easterly
winds were too weak to carry them quickly so far inland.
The whole country I had travelled over, is composed of sandstone, with
probably occasional outbreaks of igneous rocks, as indicated by the rich
black soil. The plains and creeks abound in fossil wood, changed into
iron-ore and silica. The soil is generally good, but some of the sandy
flats are rotten: and the ridges are covered with pebbles.
The trees, with the exception of the flooded-gum, are of stunted habit;
and scrub is here developed ad infinitum. A Grevillea (G. ceratophylla
R.Br.?) with pinnatifid leaves, a small tree from fifteen to twenty feet
high, and about four inches in diameter; a Melaleuca about the same size,
with stiff lanceolate leaves, about two inches long and half an inch
broad, and slightly foliaceous bark; and an Acacia with glaucous
bipinnate leaves, of the section of the brush Acacias of Moreton
Bay--grew on the sandy soil along the ridges; and a handsome Convolvulus
with pink flowers adorned the rich plain south-east of Mount Stewart. I
examined the wood of all the arborescent Proteaceae which I met with, and
observed in all of them, with the exception of Persoonia, the great
development of the medullary rays, as it exists in several species of
Casuarina.
On the 23rd, 24th, and 25th January, the party moved over the country
which I had reconnoitred, to a place about twenty-five miles north-west
from Mount Stewart's Creek, and about thirty-four miles from the
Mackenzie. In the vicinities of several of the camps, Charley found many
nests of the native bee, full of the sweetest and most aromatic honey we
had ever tasted. The wild Marjoram, which grows abundantly here, and
imparts its fragrance even to the air, seemed to be the principal source
from which the bee obtained its honey. We collected a considerable
quantity of the marjoram, and added it to our tea, with the double
intention, of improving its flavour, and of saving our stock; we also
used it frequently as a condiment in our soup.
To the westward of our camp of the 25th January, was a large hill, which
I called "West Hill;" and, to the north and north-east, several ridges
confined the large valley of our creek and its tributaries. From a
sandstone peak to the north-east, which I descended with Mr. Roper, I
again saw the range of peaks which I had first observed from Mount
Stewart in a W.N.W. direction; and the country to the north and
north-east was evidently very mountainous: the valleys descending in a
northerly direction. We rode along the ridges on a W.N.W. and west
course, and came into the valley of another creek, which we crossed; and,
passing several other ridges, which appear to be connected with West
Hill, descended to a fine creek, in which we found a reedy water-hole of
considerable size. The character of all these creeks is the same.
Extensive flats of rotten ground, but beautifully clothed with tufts of
grass, openly timbered with Moreton Bay ash and flooded-gum, ascend into
gentle grassy slopes of silver-leaved Ironbark and bloodwood, and then
rise into sandstone ridges with Acacia thickets and shrubby plants
peculiar to the sandstone formation. An Acacia with very large falcate,
glaucous phyllodia, and the Euphorbiaceous Severn-tree, were very
plentiful; and Crinum grew in thousands on the sandy flats. After a very
hot day, the night was bright and dewy: a light breeze was felt at 8
o'clock, which cooled the air.
Jan. 26.--I removed my camp to the reedy water-hole of yesterday, about
five miles in the direction of west or west by north from our last
encampment. Here I planted the last peach-stones, with which Mr. Newman,
the present superintendent of the Botanic Garden in Hobart Town, had
kindly provided me. It is, however, to be feared that the fires, which
annually over-run the whole country, and particularly here, where the
grass is rich and deep even to the water's edge, will not allow them to
grow. To the creek on which we were encamped I gave the name of "Newman's
Creek," in honour of Mr. Newman. It flows in a south-east and southerly
course, and unites probably with West Hill Creek, on which we were
encamped the day before, and with the large creek which we crossed on the
25th; both of which probably belong to the system of the Mackenzie. Mr.
Calvert and Charley accompanied me in an excursion to the W.N.W., but,
having crossed some ridges and coming to scrub, we took a direction to
the northward. Fine Bastard-box flats and Ironbark slopes occupy the
upper part of Newman's Creek. On the ridges, we observed Persoonia with
long falcate leaves; the grass-tree (Xanthorrhaea); the rusty gum, and
the Melaleuca of Mount Stewart. Having ascended the sandstone ridge at
the head of Newman's Creek, we found ourselves on a table land out of
which rose the peaks for which we were steering, and from which we were
separated by fine downs, plains, and a lightly timbered country, with
belts of narrow-leaved Ironbark growing on a sandy soil. On one of the
plains quartzite cropped out; and silex and fossil wood lay scattered
over the rich black soil: the latter broke readily, like asbestos, into
the finest filaments, much resembling the fossil wood of Van Diemen's
Land. It is difficult to describe the impressions which the range of
noble peaks, rising suddenly out of a comparatively level country, made
upon us. We had travelled so much in a monotonous forest land, with only
now and then a glimpse of distant ranges through the occasional clearings
in the dismal scrub, that any change was cheering. Here an entirely open
country--covered with grass, and apparently unbounded to the westward;
now ascending, first, in fine ranges, and forming a succession of almost
isolated, gigantic, conical, and dome-topped mountains, which seemed to
rest with a flat unbroken base on the plain below--was spread before our
delighted eyes. The sudden alteration of the scene, therefore, inspired
us with feelings that I cannot attempt to describe. Proceeding onwards we
passed some water-holes; but, farther on, the water failed, except here
and there in a few pools, in the creeks coming from the range, that had
been filled by the last thunder-showers. These pools were generally lined
with patches of a narrow-leaved tea tree; and were full of basaltic
pebbles.
The breeze set in full and strong, as usual, at a quarter past eight
o'clock; the night was bright and cool, and the following morning
inexpressibly beautiful.
We enjoyed a dish of cockatoos for supper: the place abounds with them.
Jan. 27.--Charley went back to bring forward our party, whilst I
proceeded with Mr. Calvert to reconnoitre the plains under the peaks,
feeling confident of finding water at their foot. We passed over plains
and lightly-timbered basaltic ridges, between which shallow creeks came
down from the range, but we only found water in one or two holes. The
plains in the neighbourhood of our intended camp were richly grassed; and
a species of Hypoxis and the native Borage (Trichodesma zeylanica, R.
Br.) adorned them with their bright yellow and blue blossoms. Farther on,
however, the grass had been burnt, and was not yet recovered. As the day
advanced, and the black soil became heated by the almost vertical sun,
the heat from above and from below became almost insupportable.
Three peaks of this range were particularly striking; two of them seemed
to be connected by a lower ridge, in a direction from S.E. to N.W. The
south-eastern I called "Roper's Peak," after my companion, who afterwards
ascended it with Murphy and Brown, and the north-western, "Scott's Peak,"
after Helenus Scott, Esq., of Glendon, Hunter's River, who had kindly
assisted me in my expedition. In a W. by S. direction from these, and
distant four or five miles, is another peak, to which I gave the name of
"Macarthur's Peak," after Mr. William Macarthur, of Cambden. All these
peaks are composed of Domite; and Roper's and Scott's Peaks are
surrounded by a sandstone formation, covered with a dense low scrub.
I passed between Roper's Peak and Macarthur's Peak, to the northward, and
came in sight of another very remarkable cone, which I afterwards called
Calvert's Peak, after my fellow-traveller, in consequence of his having
suffered severely in its neighbourhood, as I shall soon have to mention.
I traced a creek at the east side of Macarthur's Peak to its head, and
went down another on its west side to a large plain, which seemed to be
limited to the westward by openly-timbered ridges. As we advanced into
the plain, a most remarkable and interesting view of a great number of
peaks and domes opened to the N.N.W. and N.W. There seemed no end of
apparently isolated conical mountains, which, as they resemble very much
the chain of extinct volcanos in Auvergne, might easily be mistaken for
such; but, after changing the aspect a little, they assumed the
appearance of immense tents, with very short ridge-poles. To the most
remarkable of them, which had the appearance of an immense cupola, I gave
the name of Gilbert's Dome, after my companion. Far to the N.N.W. a blue
peak was seen rising behind a long range of mountains, and from the
latter a valley seemed to descend to the W.N.W. A round hill, of a
reddish colour, to the south or south-west of Macarthur's Peak, was
called Mount Lowe, after R. Lowe, Esq. of Sydney. The general direction
of these mountains seems to be from N. 60 degrees W. to S. 60 degrees E.,
and, if we compare them with the line of the coast in the neighbourhood
of Broadsound and Shoalwater bay, bearing due east, it will be found that
they are parallel to its direction. All the creeks which we examined, and
which fell to the south-west, were entirely dry. On the ridges which
bounded the plain to the westward, I met with Acacia pendula; and I may
here remark that this appears to be the most northern limit of its
habitat. Here also, in an old camp of the natives, we found a heap of
muscle-shells, which were probably taken from some very deep and shady
holes in the creek, but which were now without the slightest indication
of moisture. Water failing us on the western slopes, I crossed to the
east side, under the idea and hope that the north and north-east sides of
the range, from being more exposed to the sea winds, would be better
provided with water; and, passing to the left of Calvert's Peak, over low
basaltic ridges, I came to a creek with a shallow bed, winding between
basaltic ridges to the north-east. These ridges were lightly timbered,
and covered with an abundance of dry grass: dark-green patches of scrub
raised our hopes from time to time, and quickened our pace; but in vain,
for no water was to be found. Fatigued and exhausted by thirst, both
rider and horse wished for an early halt. We stopped, therefore, and
hobbled our horses; and, when I had spread my saddle, my head sank
between its flaps, and I slept soundly until the cool night-air, and the
brilliant moonlight, awoke me. I found my poor companion, Mr. Calvert,
suffering severely from thirst, more so indeed than I did; but I was
unfortunately labouring under a most painful diarrhoea, which of itself
exhausted my strength. In the morning, to add to our distress, our horses
were not to be found, and Mr. Calvert had a walk of four hours to get
them: the poor brutes had rambled away in search of water, but found
none. The scream of a cockatoo made me wish to continue our ride down the
creek; but my companion was so completely exhausted that I resolved upon
returning to the camp, but by a different route, passing to the east side
of Scott's and Roper's Peaks. We found sandstone ridges to the very foot
of the peaks. Although we passed many localities where water might have
been expected, and travelled where three different rocks, domite,
sandstone, and basalt, came in contact, and where springs are so
frequently found, yet not a drop of water could we find. In travelling
over the hot plains our horses began to fail us; neither whip nor spur
could accelerate their snail-like pace; they seemed to expect that every
little shade of the scattered trees would prove a halting-place; and it
was not without the greatest difficulty that we could induce them to pass
on. It was indeed distressingly hot: with open mouths we tried to catch
occasional puffs of a cooler air; our lips and tongue got parched, our
voice became hoarse, and our speech unintelligible. Both of us, but
particularly my poor companion, were in the most deplorable state. In
order to ease my horse, I tried to walk; but, after a few paces. I found
it impossible; I was too much exhausted. At this distressing moment,
however, we crossed the tracks of horses and bullocks, and then we knew
we were near the camp, the sight of which, a short time afterwards, was
most welcome to us.
Jan. 29.--Finding that one of the water-holes of the camp had dried up,
and that the other was very muddy, we returned to larger water-holes two
miles to the south-east. After having done this, I sent Mr. Gilbert and
Charley down the creek, to ascertain its course, and to see whether it
would be practicable to skirt the highland of peak range to the westward.
Last night thunder-storms were gathering to the south-west, but they did
not come up to us. The night breeze is very strong and regular, and sets
in invariably between a quarter and half-past eight o'clock; last night
it was quite a gale, which I considered to be the indication of a change
in the weather, and of rain.
John Murphy brought the flower of a yellow Hibiscus from Roper's Peak: it
is certainly a new species.
Jan. 30.--Last night clouds gathered into a thunder-storm to the
south-west, but it passed by with very little rain: heavy clouds hung
round us, in every direction, but it seemed as if even their passage over
the parched plains exhausted their moisture. In the east and south-east a
heavy thunder cloud, with incessant lightning, was seen, but so distant
that we could not hear the thunder. In the morning, loose clouds spread
over the whole sky: this was the first cloudy day we had experienced for
the last three weeks. Nature looks quite refreshed; the grass is so
green, and the modest blue Ruellia so plentiful; whole fields of Crinum
are in full blossom; and the Ironbark and flooded-gum with a denser and
richer foliage than usual, afford us a most agreeable shade. I wish I
could sufficiently describe the loveliness of the morning just before and
after sunrise: the air so clear, so transparent; the sky slightly tinged
with roseate hues, all nature so fresh, so calm, so cool. If water were
plentiful, the downs of Peak Range would be inferior to no country in the
world. Mr. Calvert collected a great number of Limnaea in the
water-holes: its shell is more compact than those we have before seen,
and has a slight yellow line, marking probably the opening at a younger
age. Several insects of the genera Mantis and Truxalis were taken, but
did not appear different from those we had previously collected.
Jan. 31.--We had a thunder-storm from the west, and thunder clouds in all
quarters; but, as usual, very little rain. Mr. Gilbert returned from his
exploratory ride, and stated that the plains extended far to the
westward, and that they rose in that direction, forming a succession of
terraces; and that another fine range of peaks, even more imposing than
those of our Peak Range, reared their heads to the westward of the
plains, converging towards the latter [Note at end of para.]; that all the
creeks went down to the south and south-west; but that he found no water,
except one fine lagoon about fifteen miles to the south-west, which was
covered with ducks. He had observed the sign of an anchor, or broad-arrow,
cut into a tree with a stone tomahawk, and which he supposed had been
done, either by a shipwrecked sailor, or by a runaway convict from Moreton
Bay, when it was a penal settlement: the neighbouring trees were variously
marked by Blackfellows.
[Note. Captain P. P. King, who surveyed this part of the coast, informs me
that the coast hills as seen from the sea, are generally of peaked form,
particularly the remarkable elevation of Mount Funnel, at the back of
Broad Sound--which is apparently not connected with the neighbouring
ranges--and also that of Double Mount, which is visible from a distance
of 60 miles. The Cumberland Islands also, which front the coast in the
same vicinity, are of peaked shape, and one, Mount Dryander, on the west
side of Whitsunday Passage, is a very high peak. In the Appendix to
Captain King's Voyage, Dr. Fitton describes the islands, from the
specimens which were submitted for his inspection, to be of primitive
formation; and notices the following rocks: Compact felspar of a
flesh-red hue, enclosing a few small crystals of reddish felspar and of
quartz; Coane porphyritic conglomerate of a reddish hue; Serpentine;
Slaty clay--which forms the general character of the Percy Islands.
Repulse Island produced a compact felspar--a compound of quartz, mica,
and felspar, having the appearance of decomposed granite. (King's Voyage,
Appendix, p. 607.) Captain King also describes this portion of the coast
to be more than usually fertile in appearance; and Captain Blackwood, of
Her Majesty's Ship Fly, saw much of this part, and corroborates Captain
King's opinion as to its fertility. It is hereabouts that the Araucaria
Cunninghamiana grows in such abundance.]
Being too weak to travel, I sent Mr. Roper and Brown to the northward and
to the north-east, to examine the country.
By my lunar observations, I made our longitude 148 degrees 19 minutes;
our latitude was 22 degrees 57 minutes; so that our distance from Keppel
Bay was 175 miles, and from Broad Sound 100. The Mackenzie probably
disembogues into Keppel Bay, and if so, it will form the inlet to a fine
country; for I suppose that all the creeks going down to the south and
south-west, either fall into the Mackenzie itself, or join one of its
tributaries.
Mr. Gilbert found the skull of a large kangaroo, the nasal cavity of
which appeared unusually spacious. He brought home a new Malurus, and a
Rallus: he also shot another species of Rallus on the water-hole near our
encampment; he also brought in a true Caprimulgus.
On Mr. Roper's return, he informed me that he had met with a creek at the
other side of the hills to the east of us; that the hills were covered
with dense scrub, teeming with wallabis; and that the creek went to the
north-east, several other creeks joining it; that, lower down, it was
lined with Casuarinas, and that about seven miles from the hills, he
found fine water-holes.
CHAPTER V
DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE--PHILLIPS'S MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE OF
FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN--HUGHS'S CREEK--TOMBSTONE CREEK--CHARLEY AND BROWN
BECOME UNRULY--THE ISAACS--NATIVE WOMEN--COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE--
GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER--CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES--BROWN FOLLOWS
HIM--BOTH RETURN PENITENT--VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER--SKULL OF
NATIVE--FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.
Feb. 2.--Being much recovered, I took both Blackfellows with me, and
again passed the defile east of Roper's and Scott's Peaks, and followed
the watercourse rising from it to the northward. About two or three miles
lower down, we found water in deep rocky basins in the bed of the creek.
The rock was sandstone, fissured from south-west to north-east.
In passing the foot of the peaks, we found a species of Grewia (Dwarf
Roorajong) covered with ripe fruit; the fruit is dry, but the stringy
tissue which covers the seed, contains a slightly sweet and acidulous
substance of a very agreeable taste. The fig-tree with a rough leaf, had
plenty of fruit, but not yet ripe. Erythrina was both in blossom and in
seed.
Sending Brown back to conduct our party to the water-holes we had found,
and leaving the creek, which turned to the eastward, I continued my ride
to the northward. I passed some gentle well-grassed slopes of
narrow-leaved Ironbark and spotted gum; and also several basaltic ridges,
which head out into small plains gently sloping to the east and
north-east. They are formed of a rich black soil, and generally a shallow
creek meanders through them: sandstone ridges formed their boundary lower
down, where, at their foot, water-holes generally existed, either with a
constant supply of water, or readily filled by thunder-showers. The
basaltic ridges, as well as the plains, were covered with a fine crop of
dry grass; but the sandstone ridges were frequently scrubby. The
difference between the sandstone country and the basaltic plains and
ridges, is very striking in respect to the quantity of water they
contain: in the latter, rain is immediately absorbed by the cracked
porous soil, which requires an immense quantity of moisture before it
allows any drainage; whereas the sandstone forms steeper slopes, and does
not absorb the rain so quickly, so that the water runs down the slopes,
and collects in holes at the foot of the hills parallel to the creeks.
Scrubs are frequent round the low rises of sandstone; and, where the
country is level, and the soil loamy, the hollows are often filled with
water by the thunder-storms. The moist character of this description of
country is probably the cause of the vegetation being more dense than it
is in the rich black soil of the plains; in which latter, the seeds of
the grasses and herbs lie dormant, until the first rain falls, when they
instantly germinate and cover the plain with their rapid and luxuriant
growth, as if by enchantment; but which, from its nature, is incapable of
maintaining the growth of scrubs and trees.
Feb. 3.--The dew was heavy through the night; and, in the morning, loose
rainy clouds gathered from the east and north-east, which, however,
disappeared about eleven o'clock. Charley went back to the camp, to bring
it on, and I continued to reconnoitre to the north-west. After passing a
sandstone ridge, I came to a creek, which went to the north-west, and
which was supplied with water by the late thunder-showers. It was bounded
on both sides by sandstone ridges, whose summits were covered with scrub
and Acacia thickets; and by grassy slopes and flats bearing narrow-leaved
Ironbark and Bastard-box. This would be a most beautiful country, if it
contained a constant supply of water.
I observed on the ridges an Acacia, a small tree, from thirty to forty
feet high, and from six to nine inches in diameter, and easily
distinguished by its peculiar rough frizzled bark, similar to that of the
Casuarina found at the ranges of the Robinson. It has a dark
sweet-scented heartwood, like that of the Bricklow and the Myal and other
Acacias, which I had previously met with. The creek turned to the north
and north-east, into a plain, and joined a larger creek which came in
from the right at about south-west. Near their junction, a very
conspicuous peak was observed, with several small water-holes with water
at its foot. I then returned to the spot to which Charley had been
ordered to conduct the camp; but, as the party had not arrived, I feared
that some accident might have happened, and therefore rode towards the
water-holes from which Brown had gone back to the camp. I found the
detention caused by the absence of the horses, which had strayed to the
other side of the range.
Feb. 6.--Charley rode my horse after the missing ones, and returned with
them about one o'clock to the camp; and then we proceeded about six miles
due north, in the direction of a fine mountain of imposing character--
which I called "Phillips's Mountain," after one of my companions--and
encamped in sight of Calvert's and Scott's Peaks, the former of which
bore S. 22 degrees W., and the latter S. 7 degrees E. Our latitude was 22
degrees 43 minutes.
Acacia farnesiana grew in low shrubs along the plains, stretching its
flexible branches over the ground; Mimosa terminalis (the sensitive
plant) was very plentiful, and more erect than usual; a species of
Verbena, with grey pubescent leaf and stem, was also abundant. The night
breeze had been exceedingly strong during the last four days. At the camp
of the 4th of February my companions shot twenty-one pigeons (Geophaps
scripta), and five cockatoos; a welcome addition to our scanty meals. For
a considerable time previous, I had reduced our allowance of flour to
three pounds; but now, considering that we were still so far to the
eastward, it was, by general consent of my companions, again reduced to a
pound and a-half per diem for the six, of which a damper mixed up with
fat was made every day, as soon as we reached our encampment.
Feb. 6.--I brought my camp forward about six miles farther to the
north-by-east, to the water-holes I had found at the foot of the
sandstone ridges; and, after having settled my camp, I went with my two
Blackfellows in search of more water. About a mile and a-half north from
the camp we came to an isolated peak, which I ascended, and from its
summit enjoyed the finest view of the Peak Range I had yet seen. I
attempted to sketch it in its whole extent, and gave to its most
remarkable peaks separate names. A long flat-topped mountain I called
"Lord's Table Range," after E. Lord, Esq., of Moreton Bay; and a sharp
needle-like rock, which bore west-by-north, received the name of
"Fletcher's Awl," after Mr. John Fletcher, whose kind contribution
towards my expedition had not a little cheered me in my undertaking.
Towards the east and north-east, a flat country extended, in which the
smoke of several fires of the natives was seen, and, in the distance,
several blue ranges were distinguished. To the northward, the country was
very mountainous, and in the north-west, at a short distance, Phillips's
Mountain reared its head. Many shallow valleys, at present of an
earth-brown colour, led down from the range. A large creek--which
probably collects all the waters that we had passed on the east side of
the range, and which I descended during my ride of the 3rd
February--flows down a very conspicuous valley to the eastward. I named
this creek after--Stephens, Esq., of Darling Downs; and the peak on
which I stood after--Campbell, Esq., of the same district. Both these
gentlemen had shown the greatest hospitality to me and to my party during
our stay at the Downs, before starting on the expedition. The rock of
Campbell's Peak is domitic; at the top it is of a bluish colour and very
hard, and contains very visible, though minute, crystals of felspar.
In a hollow between the two rocky protuberances on the west side of the
hill, a noble fig-tree spread its rich dark-green shady foliage; and on
the steep slopes Erythrina was frequent. I could not help contrasting the
character of this place with the moist creeks and mountain brushes of the
Bunya Bunya country near Moreton Bay, where I had been accustomed to
observe the same plant. Proceeding to the N.N.E. we passed several creeks
or watercourses, some fine open Ironbark slopes, and a sandstone range;
and, following down a watercourse, came to a creek which seemed to
originate in Phillips's Mountain. This creek contained water; it flowed
to the south-east and east, and very probably joined Stephens's Creek. A
rather stunted rusty gum grew plentifully on the sandstone ridges;
pebbles of concretionary limestone were found in the creek, probably
carried down from the basalt of Phillips's Mountain; and a deposit of
concretionary limestone was observed in the banks of a creek, whilst
passing one of the black plains, on this side of the range. A profusion
of Calcedony, and fine specimens of Agate, were observed in many places,
along the basaltic ridges. My black companions loaded themselves with the
pretty agates, which they had never seen before, and which they evidently
considered to be very valuable; but, after a little time, the weight
became inconvenient, and they kept only a few, to strike fire with.
Feb. 7.--Having sent Brown back to guide our party to this creek, which
is about six miles N. N. E. from yesterday's camping place, in latitude
22 degrees 32 minutes 27 seconds; I continued my ride with Charley to the
north-west. We ascended a high sandstone range, and travelled for some
miles along its flat summit. The country was very broken, but openly
timbered, and occasionally of a most beautiful character; but frequently
interrupted by patches of miserable scrub. Having in our progress brought
Mount Phillips to bear south-west and south, we entered a fine open
Bastard-box country, with slight undulations, and which seemed to extend
to Peak Range. On the sandstone range I found Balfouria saligna R. Br., a
shrub or small tree, with long linear-lanceolate leaves, and rather
drooping branches, covered with very fragrant yellow blossoms; its
seed-vessels varied from three to six inches in length, were terete,
tapering to a point, and filled with silky seeds. The same little tree
was subsequently observed, growing round the head of the gulf of
Carpentaria, and also at Arnheim's Land. Another shrub (Gardenia?), with
opposite, oval, rather rough leaves, and large white or light yellow
blossoms, like those of the Jasmine in shape and fragrance, had been
observed once before, but was very common between this latitude and Port
Essington; at which place a species of Guettarda, resembling it very
much, but with larger flowers, grows along the beach.
The last two days the mornings were clear; during the afternoon of each
day cirrhi formed, which settling down, became confluent, and united into
a dark cloud which promised rain, but dispersed towards evening; and the
sun set in a cloudless horizon: in the morning, a northerly breeze is
generally stirring, which renders that part of the day more agreeable for
travelling.
Feb. 8.--I returned last night to the creek, from which I had sent Brown
back, and found my companions encamped on a very fine water-hole. This
morning we travelled to the water-holes I had seen about seven miles in
advance to the north-west, and about five or six miles due north from
Phillips's Mountain. After our mid-day meal, I set out again with the two
Blackfellows, not only with a view to find water for the next stage, but
to endeavour to make the table land again, and thence to pursue a more
westerly course.
A great number of sandstone ranges, several of them very steep, and of
considerable elevation, stretch parallel to each other from west to east,
forming spurs from a higher mountain range to the westward, which is
probably connected with Peak Range. It is composed of basalt, and partly
covered with dense scrub, and in other parts openly timbered; where the
scrub prevailed, the soil was shallow and rocky, but the soil of the open
forest was deeper, and of the character of that of the plains. The deep
gullies were all without water, but occasionally filled with patches of
rich brush. Many creeks went down between the sandstone ranges: and they
were generally bounded on both sides by fine well-grassed, narrow-leaved
Ironbark slopes, and sweet herbage, on which numerous emus and kangaroos
were feeding. In one of the glens among the ridges I observed a new
gum-tree, with a leaf like that of the trembling poplar of Europe, and of
a bright green colour, which rendered the appearance of the country
exceedingly cheerful. It is a middle-sized tree, of irregular growth,
with white bark; but the wood, not being free grained, was unfit for
splitting. Lower down, water was found, without exception, in all the
creeks, and was most abundant at the edge of the level country to the
eastward, where the ridges disappear, by more or less gradual slopes.
Travelling across these sandstone ranges, with their thick vegetation,
and deep gullies and valleys, was exceedingly difficult. The bullocks
upset their loads frequently in clambering up and down the rocky slopes,
and our progress was consequently very slow. This induced me to give up
the westerly course, and to look for a better-travelling country to the
eastward; supposing, at the same time, that water would be found more
abundant, as we approached the sea-coast.
I, therefore, returned to the camp, and on the 10th February, I travelled
about six miles N. N. E., over several ranges and creeks, and came to a
creek well supplied with water. On the following day, the 11th February,
I travelled down this creek, and reached a flat country of great extent,
lightly timbered with Ironbark, Bastard-box, and Poplar-gum; but the
water disappeared in the sandy bed of the creek, which had assumed a very
winding course, and we had to encamp on a shallow pool left on the rocks,
which, for a short distance, formed again the bed of the creek. Our
latitude was 22 degrees 23 minutes, about thirteen miles E. N. E. from
our camp of the 8th February.
Feb. 12.--We continued travelling along the creek, and halted at very
fine water-holes, within some Bricklow scrub, which here made its
appearance again. The stage did not exceed six miles east; but I did not
venture to proceed farther until I had examined the country in advance,
which did not look very promising. I named this creek "Hughs's Creek,"
after--Hughs, Esq., of Darling Downs.
The grass-tree grew very abundantly on the rocky sandstone ranges; and
the Grevillea (G. ceratophylla, R. Br.?) with pinnatifid leaves, was not
less common: on the upper part of Hughs's Creek, we first met with the
drooping tea-tree (Melaleuca Leucodendron?), which we found afterwards at
every creek and river; it was generally the companion of water, and its
drooping foliage afforded an agreeable shade, and was also very
ornamental. The slopes towards the flat country were sandy and rotten;
but there were some fine hollows, with rich green grass, which very
probably formed lagoons during the wet season. The whole country was very
similar to that of Zamia Creek: it had the same extensive flats, the same
geological features, the same vegetation, the same direction of the creek
to the east and north-east. Just before the creek left the hills, it was
joined by another; and, at their junction, sandstone cropped out, which
was divided by regular fissures into very large rectangular blocks. These
fissures had been widened by the action of water, which made them
resemble a range of large tombstones, the singular appearance of which
induced me to call this, which joins Hughs's Creek, "Tombstone Creek."
This formation was very remarkable, and occupied a very considerable
space. The strata of the sandstone dip towards the east and north-east
off Peak Range; but, in other localities, I observed a dip towards the
range.
A circumstance now occurred, which, as it seemed to augur badly for the
welfare of our expedition, gave me much concern and anxiety. My two
blacks, the companions of my reconnoitring excursions, began to show
evident signs of discontent, and to evince a spirit of disobedience
which, if not checked, might prove fatal to our safety. During my recent
reconnoitre, they both left me in a most intricate country, and took the
provisions with them. They had become impatient from having been without
water at night; and, in the morning, whilst I was following the ranges,
they took the opportunity of diverging from the track, and descended into
the gullies; so that I was reluctantly compelled to return to the camp.
My companions were highly alarmed at the behaviour of the sable
gentlemen, believing that they had concerted a plan to decamp, and leave
us to our fate. I knew, however, the cowardly disposition of the
Australian native too well; and felt quite sure that they would return
after they had procured honey and opossums, in search of which they had
deserted me. To impress their minds, therefore, with the conviction that
we were independent of their services, the party started the next day as
usual, and, on reaching a beautiful valley, three emus were seen on a
green sunny slope, strutting about with their stately gait: Mr. Roper
immediately laid the dog on, and gave chase. After a short time, the
horse returned without its rider and saddle, and caused us a momentary
alarm lest some accident had happened to our companion: shortly
afterwards, however, we were made glad, by seeing him walking towards us,
with a young emu thrown over his shoulder. He had leaped from his horse
upon nearing the emus, had shot one in the head, and had taken a young
one from the dog, which immediately pursued the third, an old one; but
his horse escaped, which compelled him to return on foot, with the
smallest of the birds. Messrs. Gilbert and Calvert went in search of the
dog, and were fortunate enough to find him with the emu which he had
killed. We were rejoiced at our success, and lost no time in preparing a
repast of fried emu; and, whilst we were thus employed, the two
Blackfellows, having filled their bellies and had their sulk out, made
their appearance, both considerably alarmed as to the consequences of
their ill-behaviour. Charley brought about a pint of honey as a
peace-offering; and both were unusually obliging and attentive to my
companions. At this time, I was suffering much pain from a severe kick
from one of the bullocks, and felt unequal to inflict any punishment, and
therefore allowed the matter to pass with an admonition only. But events
subsequently proved that I was wrong, and that a decided and severe
punishment would have saved me great trouble. I was, however, glad to
find that their conduct met with the general indignation of my
companions.
The Blackfellows told us, that they had caught a ring-tailed opossum, and
had seen a black kangaroo with a white point at the end of the tail.
Brown brought the fruit of a tree, which, according to his account, had
the simple pinnate-leaf of the red cedar (Credela) with a dark
purple-coloured fruit half an inch long, and one inch in diameter, with a
thin astringent pericarp: the stony seed-vessel consisted of many
carpels, which, if I remember rightly, were monosperme. It belongs
probably to an Ebenaceous tree.
The wood-duck (Bernicla jubata) abounded on the larger water-holes which
we passed; and the swamp-pheasant (Centropus Phasianus, GOULD) was heard
several times among the trees surrounding the grassy hollows.
The smoke of extensive bush-fires was observed under Lord's Table Range,
and along the western and south-western ranges. As we approached the
place of our encampment of the 12th February, some Blackfellows were
bathing in the water-hole, but fled as soon as we made our appearance.
The night of the 8th February was cloudy, with a little rain, which
continued to the morning of the 9th, but cleared up at noon, and the
weather became very hot. During the afternoon, thunder-storms passed to
the north and north-west, and also to the east and east-south-east. On
the 10th, thunder-storms again surrounded us on all sides, and from one,
which broke over us in the night, a heavy shower fell. The night of the
11th was exceedingly cold; and the night breeze was observed to be less
regular than formerly.
We were here very much troubled with a small black ant; infesting our
provisions during the day and running over our persons, and biting us
severely at night. A large yellow hornet with two black bands over the
abdomen, was seen, humming about the water-holes. A crow was shot and
roasted, and found to be exceedingly tender, which we considered to be a
great discovery; and lost no opportunity of shooting as many as we could,
in order to lessen the consumption of our dried meat. We again enjoyed
some fine messes of Portulaca.
Feb. 12.--I went, accompanied by Mr. Roper and Charley, in a due north
direction to reconnoitre the country. The flat continued for about eight
miles, and then changed into slight undulations. Considerable tracts were
covered with the Poplar-gum; and broad belts of Bricklow descended from
the hills towards the east. In the scrub; Fusanus was observed in fruit,
and the Stenochilus and the white Vitex in blossom; from the latter the
native bee extracts a most delicious honey. A small tree, with stiff
alternate leaves scarcely an inch long, was covered with red fruit of the
form of an acorn, and about half an inch long, having a sweet pericarp
with two compressed grain-like seeds, which had the horny albumen of the
coffee, and were exceedingly bitter. The pigeons, crows, and cockatoos,
fed upon them, we also ate a great number of them; but the edible portion
of each seed was very small. It is a remarkable fact that trees, which we
had found in full blossom or in fruit in October and November, were again
observed to be in blossom and fruit in February.
We had to encamp at night without water; and although the clouds gathered
in the afternoon of a very hot day, yet no thunder-storm came to our
relief. The night breeze, which was in all probability the sea-breeze,
set in about ten minutes to six.
Feb. 13.--The morning was very cloudy. I continued my course to the
northward, and, coming to a watercourse, followed it down in the hopes of
finding water: it led us to the broad deep channel of a river, but now
entirely dry. The bed was very sandy, with reeds and an abundance of
small Casuarinas. Large flooded-gums and Casuarinas grew at intervals
along its banks, and fine openly timbered flats extended on both sides
towards belts of scrub. The river came from the north and north-west,
skirting some fine ranges, which were about three miles from its left
bank. As the river promised to be one of some importance I called it the
"Isaacs," in acknowledgment of the kind support we received from F.
Isaacs, Esq. of Darling Downs.
When we were approaching the river, the well-known sound of a tomahawk
was heard, and, guided by the noise, we soon came in sight of three black
women, two of whom were busily occupied in digging for roots, whilst the
other, perched on the top of a high flooded-gum tree, was chopping out
either an opossum or a bees' nest. They no sooner perceived us than they
began to scream most dreadfully, swinging their sticks, and beating the
trees, as if we were wild beasts, which they wished to frighten away. We
made every possible sign of peace, but in vain: the two root-diggers
immediately ran off, and the lady in the tree refused to descend. When I
asked for water, in the language of the natives of the country we had
left--"Yarrai" "yarrai," she pointed down the river, and answered "yarrai
ya;" and we found afterwards that her information was correct. Upon
reaching the tree we found an infant swaddled in layers of tea-tree bark,
lying on the ground; and three or four large yams. A great number of
natives, men, boys, and children, who had been attracted by the screams
of their companions, now came running towards us; but on our putting our
horses into a sharp canter, and riding towards them, they retired into
the scrub. The yams proved to be the tubers of a vine with blue berries;
both tubers and berries had the same pungent taste, but the former
contained a watery juice, which was most welcome to our parched mouths. A
similar tuber was found near Mount Stewart on the 18th January. We then
proceeded down the river; but not succeeding in our search for water,
returned to our camp, which was about fifteen miles distant. As soon as I
arrived, I sent Mr. Gilbert and Brown down Hughs's Creek, to examine the
country near its junction.
Very thick clouds came from the westward, from which a few drops of rain
fell: thunder-storms were forming to the north-east and also to the west,
but none reached us: the night was very cloudy and warm: the scud flying
from the north-east.
Feb. 14.--After sunrise the weather cleared up again. All hands were now
employed in shooting crows; which, with some cockatoos, and a small scrub
wallabi, gave us several good messes.
Mr. Gilbert and Brown had, on their excursion, found a rushy lagoon on
the left bank of the Isaacs, at a short half-mile from its junction with
Hughs's Creek. Here they encamped; and, about 10 o'clock at night, the
loud voices of Blackfellows travelling down the river were heard; these
also encamped at some small water-holes, not very distant from Mr.
Gilbert, of whose presence they were not aware. Mr. Gilbert kept the
horses tied up in case of any hostility; but was not molested. The blacks
continued their loud conversations during the greater part of the night;
and Mr. Gilbert departed very early in the morning without being seen by
them. He continued to follow the river further down, and found that four
large creeks joined it from the northward. Another creek also joined it
from the southward; as subsequently observed by Mr. Roper. Beyond these
creeks, several lagoons or swamps were seen covered with ducks, and
several other aquatic birds, and, amongst them, the straw-coloured Ibis.
Feb. 15.--We travelled down to the above-mentioned lagoon, which was
about ten miles east by north from our camp; its latitude, was by
calculation, about 22 degrees 20 or 21; for several circumstances had
prevented me from taking observations. As the river turned to the
eastward, I determined to trace it up to its head; and set out with Mr.
Gilbert and Brown to examine the country around the range which I had
observed some days before and named "Coxen's Peak and Range," in honour
of Mr. Coxen of Darling Downs. We passed the night at a small pool, but
were not successful in discovering water in any of the numerous
watercourses and creeks, which come down from Coxen's Range, or out of
the belt of scrub which intervened between the range and the river. A
loose variegated clayey sandstone, with many irregular holes; cropped out
in the beds of the creek. Coxen's Peak and Range were found to be
composed of horizontal strata of excellent sandstone, rising by steep
terraces, on the western side, but sloping gently down to the east; its
summit is covered with scrub, but its eastern slope with groves of
grass-trees. The view from the top of Coxen's Peak was very extensive:
towards the south-west and west, Peak Range was seen extending from
Scott's and Roper's Peaks to Fletcher's Awl; and, beyond the last, other
mountains were seen, several of which had flat tops. Mount Phillips
seemed about thirty or forty miles distant; and a very indistinct blue
hill was seen to the W.N.W. To the northward, ranges rose beyond ranges,
and to the eastward, the country seemed to be flat, to a great extent,
and bounded by distant mountains. To the southward, the eye wandered over
an unbroken line of horizon, with the exception of one blue distant
elevation: this immense flat was one uninterrupted mass of forest without
the slightest break. Narrow bands of scrub approached the river from the
westward, and separated tracts of fine open forest country, amongst which
patches of the Poplar-gum forest were readily distinguished by the
brightness of their verdure. A river seemed to come from the south-west;
the Isaacs came from the north-west, and was joined by a large creek from
the northward. There was no smoke, no sign of water, no sign of the
neighbourhood of the sea coast;--but all was one immense sea of forest
and scrub.
The great outlines of the geology of this interesting country were seen
at one glance. Along the eastern edge of a basaltic table land, rose a
series of domitic cones, stretching from south-east to north-west,
parallel to the coast. The whole extent of country between the range and
the coast, seemed to be of sandstone, either horizontally stratified, or
dipping off the range; with the exception of some local disturbances,
where basalt had broken through it. Those isolated ranges, such as
Coxen's Range--the abruptness of which seemed to indicate igneous
origin--were entirely of sandstone. The various Porphyries, and Diorites,
and Granitic, and Sienitic rocks, which characterize large districts
along the eastern coast of Australia, were missing; not a pebble, except
of sandstone, was found in the numerous creeks and watercourses. Pieces
of silicified wood were frequent in the bed of the Isaacs.
The nature of the soil was easily distinguished by its vegetation: the
Bastard box, and Poplar gum grew on a stiff clay; the narrow-leaved
Ironbark, the Bloodwood, and the Moreton Bay ash on a lighter sandy soil,
which was frequently rotten and undermined with numerous holes of the
funnel ant. Noble trees of the flooded-gum grew along the banks of the
creeks, and around the hollows, depending rather upon moisture, than upon
the nature of the soil. Fine Casuarinas were occasionally met with along
the creeks; and the forest oak (Casuarina torulosa), together with
rusty-gum, were frequent on the sandy ridges.
One should have expected that the prevailing winds during the day, would
have been from the south-east, corresponding to the south-east trade
winds; but, throughout the whole journey from Moreton Bay to the Isaacs,
I experienced, with but few exceptions, during the day, a cooling breeze
from the north and north-east. The thunder-storms came principally from
the south-west, west, and north-west; but generally showed an inclination
to veer round to the northward.
From Coxen's Range I returned to the river, and soon reached the place
where I had met the Black-fellows. In passing out of the belt of scrub
into the openly timbered grassy flat of the river, Brown descried a
kangaroo sitting in the shade of a large Bastard-box tree; it seemed to
be so oppressed by the heat of the noonday sun as to take little notice
of us, so that Brown was enabled to approach sufficiently near to shoot
it. It proved to be a fine doe, with a young one; we cooked the latter
for our dinner, and I sent Brown to the camp with the dam, where my
companions most joyfully received him; for all our dried meat was by this
time consumed, and all they had for supper and breakfast, were a
straw-coloured ibis, a duck, and a crow. As Mr. Gilbert and myself were
following the course of the river, we saw numerous tracks of
Blackfellows, of native dogs, of emus, and kangaroos, in its sandy bed;
and, when within a short distance of the place where I had seen the black
women, loud cries of cockatoos attracted our notice; and, on going in
their direction, we came to a water-hole in the bed of the river, at its
junction with a large oak tree creek coming from the northward. This
water-hole is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes; the natives had fenced
it round with branches to prevent the sand from filling it up, and had
dug small wells near it, evidently to obtain a purer and cooler water, by
filtration through the sand. Pigeons (Geophapsscripta, GOULD.) had formed
a beaten track to its edge; and, the next morning, whilst enjoying our
breakfast under the shade of a gigantic flooded-gum tree, we were highly
amused to see a flight of fifty or more partridge pigeons tripping along
the sandy bed of the river, and descending to the water's edge, and
returning after quenching their thirst, quite unconscious of the
dangerous proximity of hungry ornithophagi. The cockatoos, however,
observed us, and seemed to dispute our occupation of their waters, by
hovering above the tops of the highest trees, and making the air resound
with their screams; whilst numerous crows, attracted by a neighbouring
bush fire, watched us more familiarly, and the dollar bird passed with
its arrow-like flight from shade to shade.
We continued our ride six miles higher up the river, without finding any
water, with the exception of some wells made by the natives, and which
were generally observed where watercourses or creeks joined the river. In
these places, moisture was generally indicated by a dense patch of green
reeds. The bush fire, which was raging along the left bank of the river
on which we were encamped for the night, fanned by the sea breeze, which
set in a little after six o'clock, approached very near to our tent, but
died away with the breeze; and the temperature cooled down, although no
dew was falling. The fire, which was smouldering here and there along the
steep banks of the river, was quickened up again by the morning breeze.
We observed a great number of very large dead shells of Limnaea and
Paludina, in the dry water-holes and melon-holes along the scrub; some of
them not even bleached; but every thing seemed to indicate this to be a
more than usually dry season.
In the morning we returned to the camp. As I had not discovered a more
convenient spot for killing another bullock, I decided upon stopping at
the rushy lagoon, until we had provided ourselves with a fresh stock of
dried beef. Accordingly, on the 17th February, we killed Mr. Gilbert's
bullock, which turned out a fine heavy beast, and gave us a large supply
of fat meat and suet. We had formerly been under the erroneous impression
that fat meat would not dry and keep; and, consequently, had carefully
separated the fat from the meat. Some chance pieces, however, had shown
us, that it not only dried and kept well, but that it was much finer than
the lean meat. We therefore cut up the fat in slices, like the lean; and
it was found not only to remain sweet, but to improve with age. The only
inconvenience we had experienced in this process, was a longer detention;
and we had to remain four days, (to the 21st February) before the
provision was fit for packing. On the 19th, immediately after breakfast,
whilst we were busily employed in greasing our saddles and straps--a very
necessary operation on a journey like ours, where every thing is exposed
to the dust, and a scorching sun--Charley left the camp, and did not
return before the afternoon. He had frequently acted thus of late; and it
was one of the standing complaints against him, that he was opossum and
honey hunting, whilst we were kept waiting for our horses and cattle. As
I was determined not to suffer this, after his late misbehaviour, I
reprimanded him, and told him that I would not allow him any food, should
he again be guilty of such conduct. Upon this, he burst out into the most
violent and abusive language, and threatened "to stop my jaw," as he
expressed himself. Finding it, therefore, necessary to exercise my
authority, I approached him to show him out of the camp, when the fellow
gave me a violent blow on the face, which severely injured me, displacing
two of my lower teeth; upon which my companions interfered, and
manifested a determination to support me, in case he should refuse to
quit us; which I compelled him to do. When he was going away, Brown told
him, in a very consoling manner, that he would come by and bye and sleep
with him. I was, however, determined that no one within the camp should
have any communication with him; and therefore told Brown, that he had
either to stop with me entirely, or with Charley. He answered that he
could not quarrel with him; that he would sleep with him, but return
every morning; and, when I replied that, in such a case, he should never
return, he said that he would stop altogether with Charley, and walked
off. If I had punished these fellows for their late misconduct, I should
have had no occasion for doing so now: but full of their own importance,
they interpreted my forbearance, by fancying that I could not proceed
without them.
Previous to this occurrence, Charley had, during my absence from the
camp, had an interview with the natives, who made him several presents,
among which were two fine calabashes which they had cleaned and used for
carrying water; the larger one was pear-shaped, about a foot in length,
and nine inches in diameter in the broadest part, and held about three
pints. The natives patted his head, and hair, and clothing; but they
retired immediately, when he afterwards returned to them, accompanied by
Mr. Calvert on horseback.
We started, on the 21st February, from our killing camp, and travelled a
long stage; the day was very hot, and the heat of the rotten ground was
intense. Our little terrier, which had so well borne former fatigues,
died; and our remaining kangaroo-dog was only saved by Mr. Calvert's
carrying him on his horse. It was a day well calculated to impress on the
Blackfellows the difference between riding and walking, between finding a
meal ready after a fatiguing journey, and looking out for food for
themselves. Hearing Brown's cooee as we were travelling along, Mr. Roper
stopped behind until Brown came up to him, and expressed his desire to
rejoin my party, as he had had quite enough of his banishment and bush
life; and, before sunset, he arrived quite exhausted at our
camping-place, and begged me to pardon him, which I did, under the former
condition, that he was to have no farther communication with Charley, to
which he most willingly assented.
Feb. 22.--On a ride with Mr. Gilbert up the river, we observed several
large reedy holes in its bed, in which the Blackfellows had dug wells;
they were still moist, and swarms of hornets were buzzing about them.
About eight miles north-west from the junction of North Creek with the
river, a large flight of cockatoos again invited us to some good
water-holes extending along a scrubby rise. Large Bastard-box flats lie
between North Creek and the river. About four miles from the camp, the
country rises to the left of the river, and ranges and isolated hills are
visible, which are probably surrounded by plains. Wherever I had an
opportunity of examining the rocks, I found sandstone; flint pebbles and
fossil-wood are in the scrub and on the melon-hole flats.
At night, on my return, I had to pass Charley's camp, which was about a
hundred yards from ours. He called after me, and, when I stopped, he came
up to me, and began to plead his cause and beg my pardon; he excused his
sulkiness and his bad behaviour by his temperament and some
misunderstanding; and tried to look most miserable and wretched, in order
to excite my compassion. My companions had seen him sitting alone under
his tree, during almost the whole day, beating his bommerangs which he
had received from the natives. I pitied him, and, after some consultation
with my companions, allowed him to rejoin us; but upon the condition that
he should give up his tomahawk, to which he most joyfully consented, and
promised for the future to do every thing I should require. His spirit
was evidently broken, and I should probably never have had to complain of
him again, had no other agent acted upon him.
Feb. 23.--I moved on to the water-holes, which I had found the day
before, and encamped in the shade of a Fusanus. The latitude was observed
to be 22 degrees 6 minutes 53 seconds.
Feb. 24.--Mr. Gilbert and Brown accompanied me this morning upon an
excursion. At about a mile and a-half from the camp, a large creek,
apparently from the southward, joined the river, and water was found in a
scrub creek four miles from the camp, also in wells made by the natives
in the bed of the river; and, at about eight miles from the camp, we came
upon some fine water-holes along the scrub. Here the birds were very
numerous and various; large flights of the blue-mountain and
crimson-winged parrots were seen; Mr. Gilbert observed the female of the
Regent-bird, and several other interesting birds, which made him regret
to leave this spot so favourable to his pursuit. He returned, however, to
bring forward our camp to the place, whilst I continued my ride,
accompanied by Brown. Several creeks joined the river, but water was
nowhere to be found. The high grass was old and dry, or else so entirely
burnt as not to leave the slightest sign of vegetation. For several miles
the whole forest was singed by a fire which had swept through it; and the
whole country looked hopelessly wretched. Brown had taken the precaution
to fill Charley's large calabash with water, so that we were enabled to
make a refreshing cup of tea in the most scorching heat of the day.
Towards sunset we heard, to our great joy, the noisy jabbering of
natives, which promised the neighbourhood of water. I dismounted and
cooeed; they answered; but when they saw me, they took such of their
things as they could and crossed to the opposite side of the river in
great hurry and confusion. When Brown, who had stopped behind, came up to
me, I took the calabash and put it to my mouth, and asked for "yarrai,
yarrai." They answered, but their intended information was lost to me;
and they were unwilling to approach us. Their camp was in the bed of the
river amongst some small Casuarinas. Their numerous tracks, however, soon
led me to two wells, surrounded by high reeds, where we quenched our
thirst. My horse was very much frightened by the great number of hornets
buzzing about the water. After filling our calabash, we returned to the
camp of the natives, and examined the things which they had left behind;
we found a shield, four calabashes, of which I took two, leaving in their
place a bright penny, for payment; there were also, a small water-tight
basket containing acacia-gum; some unravelled fibrous bark, used for
straining honey; a fire-stick, neatly tied up in tea-tree bark; a
kangaroo net; and two tomahawks, one of stone, and a smaller one of iron,
made apparently of the head of a hammer: a proof that they had had some
communication with the sea-coast. The natives had disappeared. The
thunder was pealing above us, and a rush of wind surprised us before we
were half-a-mile from the camp, and we had barely time to throw our
blanket over some sticks and creep under it, when the rain came down in
torrents. The storm came from the west; another was visible in the east;
and lightning seemed to be everywhere. When the rain ceased, we contrived
to make a fire and boil a pot of tea, and warmed up a mess of
gelatine-soup. At eight o'clock the moon rose, and, as the weather had
cleared, I decided upon returning to the camp, in order to hasten over
this dreary country while the rain-water lasted. The frogs were most
lustily croaking in the water-holes which I had passed, a few hours
before, perfectly dry and never were their hoarse voices more pleasing to
me. But the thunder-storm had been so very partial, that scarcely a drop
had fallen at a distance of three miles. This is another instance of the
singularly partial distribution of water, which I had before noticed at
Comet Creek. We arrived at the camp about one o'clock a.m.; and, in the
morning of the 25th February, I led my party to the water-holes, which a
kind Providence seemed to have filled for the purpose of helping us over
that thirsty and dreary land. Our bullocks suffered severely from the
heat; our fat-meat melted; our fat-bags poured out their contents; and
every thing seemed to dissolve under the influence of a powerful sun.
The weather in this region may be thus described: at sunrise some clouds
collect in the east, but clear off during the first hours of the morning,
with northerly, north-easterly, and easterly breezes; between ten and
three o'clock the most scorching heat prevails, interrupted only by
occasional puffs of cool air; about two o'clock P.M. heavy clouds form in
all directions, increase in volume, unite in dark masses in the east and
west, and, about five o'clock in the afternoon, the thunder-storm bursts;
the gust of wind is very violent, and the rain sometimes slight, and at
other times tremendous, but of short duration; and at nine o'clock the
whole sky is clear again.
In the hollows along the Isaacs, we found a new species of grass from six
to eight feet high, forming large tufts, in appearance like the oat-grass
(Anthistiria) of the Liverpool Plains and Darling Downs; it has very long
brown twisted beards, but is easily distinguished from Anthistiria by its
simple ear; its young stem is very sweet, and much relished both by
horses and cattle.
Feb. 26.--I set out reconnoitring with Mr. Gilbert and Charley. We found
that the effects of the thunder-storm of the 24th extended very little to
the north and north-west, having passed over from west to east. From time
to time we crossed low ridges covered with scrub, and cut through by deep
gullies, stretching towards the river, which became narrower and very
tortuous in its course; its line of flooded-gum trees, however, became
more dense. Within the reedy bed of the river, not quite five miles from
the camp, we found wells of the natives, not a foot deep, but amply
supplied with water, and, at four miles farther, we came to a water-hole,
in a small creek, which had been supplied by the late rains; we also
passed several fine scrub creeks, but they were dry. About ten miles from
the wells another deep scrub creek was found, on the right hand of the
river, full of water. Its bed was overgrown with reeds, and full of
pebbles of concretions of limestone, and curious trunks of fossil trees,
and on its banks a loose sandstone cropped out. Here we found the skull
of a native, the first time that we had seen the remains of a human body
during our journey. Near the scrub, and probably in old camping places of
the natives, we frequently saw the bones of kangaroos and emus. I mention
this fact in reference to the observations of American travellers, who
very rarely met with bones in the wilderness; and to remark, that the
climate of Australia is so very dry as to prevent decomposition, and that
rapacious animals are few in number--the native dog probably finding a
sufficiency of living food.
On the 25th there were thunder-storms, but they did not reach us. The
night was cloudy, and we had some few drops of rain in the morning of the
26th, but the weather cleared up about ten o'clock; cumuli formed in the
afternoon, and towards night thunder-storms were observed both in the
east and west. I found a shrubby prickly Goodenia, about four or five
feet high, growing on the borders of the scrub.
Feb. 27.--Mr. Gilbert, whom I had sent back from the wells of the natives
to bring on the camp, had been prevented from doing so, and I had
consequently to return the whole distance. The interruption was caused by
our bullocks having gone back several miles, probably in search of better
water, for we found them generally very nice in this particular.
The natives had, in my absence, visited my companions, and behaved very
quietly, making them presents of emu feathers, bommerangs, and waddies.
Mr. Phillips gave them a medal of the coronation of her Majesty Queen
Victoria, which they seemed to prize very highly. They were fine, stout,
well made people, and most of them young; but a few old women, with white
circles painted on their faces, kept in the back ground. They were much
struck with the white skins of my companions, and repeatedly patted them
in admiration. Their replies to inquiries respecting water were not
understood; but they seemed very anxious to induce us to go down the
river.
We started at noon to Skull Creek, which, in a straight line, was
fourteen miles distant, in a north by east direction. Loose cumuli
floated in the hazy atmosphere during the whole forenoon, but rose in the
afternoon, and occasionally sheltered us from the scorching sun. At four
o'clock two thunder-storms formed as usual in the east and west, and,
eventually rising above us, poured down a heavy shower of rain, which
drenched us to the skin, and refreshed us and our horses and bullocks,
which were panting with heat and thirst. Our stores were well covered
with greasy tarpaulings, and took no harm.
Feb. 28.--Successive thunder-storms, with which this spot seemed more
favoured than the country we had recently passed, had rendered the
vegetation very luxuriant. The rotten sandy ground absorbed the rain
rapidly, and the young grass looked very fresh. The scrub receded a
little more from the river, and an open country extended along its banks.
The scene was, therefore, most cheerful and welcome. Mr. Gilbert and
Charley, who had made an excursion up the river in search of water,
returned with the agreeable information that a beautiful country was
before us: they had also seen a camp of natives, but without having had
any intercourse with them.
Feb. 29.--It was cloudy in the morning, and became more so during the
day, with easterly and north-easterly winds. As soon as our capricious
horses were found, which had wandered more than eight miles through a
dense Bricklow scrub, in search of food and water, we started and
travelled about ten miles in a north-east direction, leaving the windings
of the river to the left. The character of the country continued the
same; the same Ironbark forest, with here and there some remarkably
pretty spots; and the same Bastard-box flats, with belts of scrub,
approaching the river. At about nine miles from Skull Creek, which I
supposed to be in latitude 21 degrees 42 minutes, the Isaacs breaks
through a long range of sandstone hills; beyond which the country opens
into plains with detached patches of scrub, and downs, with "devil-devil"
land and its peculiar vegetation, and into very open forest. The river
divides into two branches, one coming from the eastward, and the other
from the northward. It rained hard during our journey, and, by the time
we reached the water-hole which Mr. Gilbert had found, we were wet to the
skin.
In consequence of the additional fatigues of the day, I allowed some
pieces of fat to be fried with our meat. Scarcely a fortnight ago, some
of my companions had looked with disgust on the fat of our stews, and had
jerked it contemptuously out of their plates; now, however, every one of
us thought the addition of fat a peculiar favour, and no one hesitated to
drink the liquid fat, after having finished his meat. This relish
continued to increase as our bullocks became poorer; and we became as
eager to examine the condition of a slaughtered beast, as the natives,
whose practice in that respect we had formerly ridiculed.
As I had made a set of lunar observations at Skull camp, which I wished
to calculate, I sent Mr. Roper up the north branch of the Isaacs to look
for water; and, on his return, he imparted the agreeable intelligence,
that he had found fine holes of water at about nine or ten miles distant,
and that the country was still more open, and abounded with game,
particularly emus.
CHAPTER VI
HEADS OF THE ISAACS--THE SUTTOR--FLINT-ROCK--INDICATIONS OF WATER--DINNER
OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US--EASTER SUNDAY--ALARM OF AN OLD
WOMAN--NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND
BROWN--A BARTER WITH THEM--MOUNT M'CONNEL.
I was detained at this place from the 1st to the 4th March, from a severe
attack of lumbago, which I had brought on by incautiously and, perhaps,
unnecessarily exposing myself to the weather, in my botanical and other
pursuits. On the 4th March. I had sufficiently recovered to mount my
horse and accompany my party to Roper's water-holes. Basalt cropped out
on the plains; the slight ridges of "devil-devil" land are covered with
quartz pebbles, and the hills and bed of the river, are of sandstone
formation.
A yellow, and a pink Hibiscus, were frequent along the river.
My calculations gave the longitude of 148 degrees 56 minutes for Skull
Creek; my bearings however make it more to the westward; its latitude was
supposed to be 21 degrees 42 minutes: the cloudy nights prevented my
taking any observation.
March 5.--I sent Mr. Gilbert and Charley up the river, which, according
to Mr. Roper's account, came through a narrow mountain gully, the passage
of which was very much obstructed by tea-trees. They passed the mountain
gorge, and, in about eight miles north, came to the heads of the Isaacs,
and to those of another system of waters, which collected in a creek that
flowed considerably to the westward. The range through which the Isaacs
passes is composed of sandstone, and strikes from north-west to
south-east. In its rocky caves, wallabies, with long smooth tails, had
been seen by Brown; they were quite new to him, and, as he expressed
himself, "looked more like monkeys than like wallabies." Mr. Gilbert and
Charley came on two flocks of emus, and killed two young ones; and
Charley and John Murphy hunted down another; Charley fell, however, with
his horse, and broke a double-barrelled gun, which was a very serious
loss to us, and the more so, as he had had the misfortune to break a
single-barrelled one before this.
The weather continued showery; loose scud passed over from the east and
south-east, with occasional breaks of hot sunshine. The Corypha palm is
frequent under the range; the Ebenaceous tree, with compound pinnate
leaves and unequilateral leaflets, is of a middle size, about thirty feet
high, with a shady and rather spreading crown.
We have travelled about seventy miles along the Isaacs. If we consider
the extent of its Bastard-box and narrow-leaved Ironbark flats, and the
silver-leaved Ironbark ridges on its left bank, and the fine open country
between the two ranges through which it breaks, we shall not probably
find a country better adapted for pastoral pursuits. There was a great
want of surface water at the season we passed through it; and which we
afterwards found was a remarkably dry one all over the colony: the wells
of the natives, however, and the luxuriant growth of reeds in many parts
of the river, showed that even shallow wells would give a large supply to
the squatter in cases of necessity; and those chains of large water-holes
which we frequently met along and within the scrubs, when once filled,
will retain their water for a long time. The extent of the neighbouring
scrubs will, however, always form a serious drawback to the squatter, as
it will be the lurking place and a refuge of the hostile natives, and a
hiding place for the cattle, which would always retire to it in the heat
of the day, or in the morning and evening, at which time the flies are
most troublesome.
March 7.--I moved my camp through the mountain gorge, the passage of
which was rather difficult, in consequence of large boulders of
sandstone, and of thickets of narrow-leaved tea-trees growing in the bed
of the river. To the northward, it opens into fine gentle Ironbark slopes
and ridges, which form the heads of the Isaacs. They seem to be the
favourite haunts of emus; for three broods of them were seen, of ten,
thirteen, and even sixteen birds. About four miles from the gorge, we
came to the heads of another creek, which I called "Suttor Creek" after
--Suttor, Esq., who had made me a present of four bullocks when I
started on this expedition; four or five miles farther down we found it
well supplied with fine water-holes. Here, however, patches of scrub
again appeared. The ridges were covered with iron-coloured quartz
pebbles, which rendered our bullocks footsore. The marjoram was abundant,
particularly near the scrubs, and filled the air with a most exquisite
odour. A mountain range was seen to the right; and, where the ranges of
the head of the Isaacs abruptly terminated, detached hills and ridges
formed the south-western and southern barrier of the waters of Suttor
Creek.
March 8.--As we followed the creek about nine miles farther down, it
became broader, and the Casuarinas were more frequent. Its bed was sandy,
occasionally filled with reeds, and contained numerous water-holes,
particularly where the sandstone rock formed more retentive basins.
During the last two days we had drizzling rain, which cleared up a little
about noon and at night. The weather was delightfully cool; the wind was
very strong from the eastward. I sent Mr. Roper forward to look for
water, of which he found a sufficient supply. He stated that the country
to the westward opened into fine plains, of a rich black soil; but it was
very dry. The bluff terminations of the left range bore E. by S., and
that on the right E.N.E.
March 9.--We moved to the water-holes found yesterday by Mr. Roper. On
our way we crossed a large scrub creek, coming from the northward and
joining Suttor Creek, which turned to the westward, and even W. by S. and
W.S.W.
Mr. Gilbert and Charley made an excursion to the westward, in which
direction Mr. Roper had seen a distant range, at the foot of which I
expected to find a large watercourse. Wind continued from the east and
south-east; about the middle of last night we had some rain.
A slender snake, about five feet long, of a greyish brown on the back,
and of a bright yellow on the belly, was seen nimbly climbing a tree. The
head was so much crushed in killing it that I could not examine its
teeth.
Mr. Roper and John Murphy succeeded in shooting eight cockatoos, which
gave us an excellent soup. I found in their stomachs a fruit resembling
grains of rice, which was slightly sweet, and would doubtless afford an
excellent dish, if obtained in sufficient quantity and boiled.
March 10.--We had slight drizzling showers towards sunset; the night very
cloudy till about ten a.m., when it cleared up. The variety of grasses is
very great; the most remarkable and succulent were two species of
Anthistiria, the grass of the Isaacs, and a new one with articulate ears
and rounded glumes. A pink Convolvulus, with showy blossoms, is very
common. Portulaca, with terete leaves, grows sparingly on the mild rich
soil.
Were a superficial observer suddenly transported from one of the reedy
ponds of Europe to this water-hole in Suttor Creek, he would not be able
to detect the change of his locality, except by the presence of
Casuarinas and the white trunks of the majestic flooded-gum. Reeds,
similar to those of Europe, and Polygonums almost identical as to
species, surround the water, the surface of which is covered with the
broad leaves of Villarsia, exactly resembling those of Nymphaea alba, and
with several species of Potomogeton. Small grey birds, like the warblers
of the reeds, flit from stem to stem; hosts of brilliant gyrinus play on
the water; notonectes and beetles, resembling the hydrophili, live within
it--now rising to respire, now swiftly diving. Limnaea, similar to those
of Europe, creep along the surface of the water; small Planorbis live on
the water-plants, to which also adhere Ancylus; and Paludina, Cyclas, and
Unio, furrow its muddy bottom. The spell, however, must not be broken by
the noisy call of a laughing jackass (Dacelo gigantea); the screams of
the white cockatoo; or by the hollow sound of the thirsty emu. The
latitude of this spot was 21 degrees 23 minutes S.
I examined the country northward for about five miles, crossing some
small undulating or hilly downs of a rich black soil, where the Phonolith
frequently cropped out. There were occasional tracts of "devil-devil"
land, and patches of scrub, which, at no great distance, united into one
mass of Bricklow. Tracing a little creek to its head, I crossed ridges
with open forest. Mr. Gilbert and Charley returned, after having found,
as I anticipated, a considerable watercourse at the foot of the westerly
range. Suttor Creek was afterwards found to join this watercourse, and,
as it was its principal tributary, the name was continued to the main
stream.
March 12.--In travelling to Mr. Gilbert's discovery, we crossed large
plains, and, at the end of six miles, entered into thick scrub, which
continued with little interruption until we reached the dry channel of
the Suttor. This scrub, like those already mentioned, varies in density
and in its composition; the Bricklow acacia predominates; but, in more
open parts, tufts of Bauhinia covered with white blossoms, and patches of
the bright green Fusanus and silvery Bricklow, formed a very pleasing
picture. The bed of the Suttor was rather shallow, sandy, and irregular,
with occasional patches of reeds; its left bank was covered with scrub;
but well grassed flats, with Bastard-box and Ironbark, were on its right.
We encamped near a fine reedy water-hole, nearly half a mile long, in
lat. 21 degrees 21 minutes 36 seconds. We had travelled about fifteen
miles west by north from our last camp. Throughout the day the weather
was cloudy and rainy, which rendered the tedious passage through the
scrub more bearable.
March 13.--We proceeded six or seven miles down the river, in a S.S.W.
course. The flats continued on its right side, but rose at a short
distance into low ridges, covered either with scrub or with a very
stunted silver-leaved Ironbark. On one of the flats we met with a brood
of young emus, and killed three of them. The morning was bright; cumuli
gathered about noon, and the afternoon was cloudy. The wind was from the
eastward. The Suttor is joined, in lat. 21 degrees 25 minutes, by a large
creek from the N.W. From the ridges on the left bank of the creek I
obtained an extensive view. The bluff termination of the ranges on the
head of the Isaacs bore N. 55 degrees E. Many high ranges were seen
towards the north and north-east. Towards the south the horizon was
broken only by some very distant isolated mountains. Peak Range was not
visible. A group of three mountains appeared towards the north-west; one
of them had a flat top. The whole country to the westward was formed of
low ridges, among which the Suttor seemed to shape its winding course.
The hills on which we stood, as well as the banks of the creek, were
composed of flint-rock. Pebbles and blocks of Pegmatite covered the bed
of the creek. This rock also cropped out along the river. This was the
first time since leaving Moreton Bay that we met with primitive rocks,
and I invite the attention of geologists to the close connection of the
flint rock with granitic rocks; which I had many opportunities of
observing in almost every part of the northern and western falls of the
table land of New England.
A Melaleuca with very small decussate leaves, a tree about twenty-five
feet high, was growing on the scrubby ridges. Flooded-gums of most
majestic size, and Casuarinas, grew along the river; in which there were
many large reedy water-holes. The season must be more than usually dry,
some of the largest holes containing only shallow pools, which were
crowded with small fishes, seemingly gasping for rain. A Ruellia, with
large white and blue flowers, adorned the grassy flats along the Suttor.
The latitude of this spot was 21 degrees 26 minutes 36 seconds.
March 14.--We removed down the river about eight miles S. S. W. to good
water-holes, which had been seen by my companions the day before. Here
the scrub approached the river, leaving only a narrow belt of open
forest, which was occasionally interrupted by low ridges of stunted
silver-leaved Ironbark. Pegmatite and Porphyry (with a very few small
crystals of felspar) and Gneiss? were observed in situ. On our way we
passed a fine lagoon. A dry but not hot wind blew from the S. S. W.; the
night and morning were bright; cumuli with sharp margins hung about after
eleven o'clock.
A pelican was seen flying down the river, and two native companions and
an ibis were at the water-holes. Crows, cockatoos, and ducks were
frequent. From the remains of mussels about these water-holes, the
natives have enjoyed many recent meals.
I sent Mr. Roper and Charley down the river, who informed me, on their
return late at night, that they had found water at different distances;
the farthest they reached was distant about seventeen miles, in a
water-hole near the scrub; but the bed of the river was dry. As they
rode, one on the right and the other on the left side of the river, a
Blackfellow hailed Charley and approached him, but when he saw Mr.
Roper--who crossed over upon being called--he immediately climbed a tree,
and his gin, who was far advanced in pregnancy, ascended another. As Mr.
Roper moved round the base of the tree, in order to look the Blackfellow
in the face, and to speak with him, the latter studiously avoided looking
at Mr. Roper, by shifting round and round the trunk like an iguana. At
last, however, he answered to the inquiry for water, by pointing to the
W. N. W. The woman also kept her face averted from the white man.
Proceeding farther down the river they saw natives encamped at a
water-hole, who, as soon as they became aware of the approach of the two
horsemen, withdrew with the greatest haste into the scrub; the men
driving the shrieking women and children before them. Upon Mr. Roper
galloping after them, one athletic fellow turned round and threatened to
throw his bommerang, at this sign of hostility Mr. Roper prudently
retired. Kangaroo and other nets made of some plant and not of bark,
koolimans, bommerangs, waddies, and a fine opossum cloak were found at
the camp, but were left untouched by our companions.
March 15.--Our party moved to the water-holes, where Mr. Roper had seen
the natives; the latter had removed their property, and were not
afterwards heard or seen by any of us. The general course of the river
was about south-west, and is joined by several scrub creeks; its bed is
broad and shallow, with numerous channels, separated by bergues; and the
river itself is split into several anabranches. The scrub is generally an
open Vitex; a fine drooping tea-tree lines the banks of the river;
Casuarina disappears; the flooded-gum is frequent, but of smaller size.
The Mackenzie-bean and several other papilionaceous plants, with some new
grasses, grow in it. The most interesting plant, however, is a species of
Datura, from one to two feet high, which genus has not previously been
observed in Australia. I also found species of Heliotropium of a most
fragrant odour.
Sandstone cropped out in several places, and red quartz pebbles were very
abundant in some parts of the river; the sands of its bed are so
triturated that no one would ever surmise the existence of granitic
rocks, at sixteen or twenty miles higher up. The whole country was flat;
no hill was visible, but, towards the end of our day's journey, we
crossed a few slight undulations.
During the night of the 14th, southerly winds were followed by a gale
from the eastward, with scud and drizzling rain. The morning of the 15th
was cloudy with a little rain; wind southerly. Early in the night, a
strong east-wind with drizzling long rain set in, but cleared up at
midnight. The morning of the 16th was cloudy, with a southerly wind. Our
lat. was 21 degrees 39 minutes 58 seconds.
March 17.--Mr. Gilbert and Brown went forward in search of water,
supposing that they would find it at a convenient distance, but were
unsuccessful, and, as they had taken neither guns nor provisions, they
were obliged to return. Keeping, however, a little more to the left, on
their return, they came to two fine water-holes at the foot of some
ironstone ridges, where they passed the night, and reached the camp the
following day, having had nothing to eat for twenty-four hours. The camp
was then moved to these water-holes, about nine miles off, in a due west
course. Fine water-holes were passed at a short half-mile from our camp;
and, after crossing the northern anabranch of the river, we again found
water.
The detection of isolated water-holes in a wooded country, where there is
nothing visible to indicate its presence, is quite a matter of chance. We
have often unconsciously passed well-filled water-holes, at less than a
hundred yards distant, whilst we were suffering severely from thirst. Our
horses and bullocks never showed that instinctive faculty of detecting
water, so often mentioned by other travellers; and I remember instances,
in which the bullocks have remained the whole night, not fifty yards from
water-holes, without finding them; and, indeed, whenever we came to small
water-holes, we had to drive the cattle down to them, or they would have
strayed off to find water elsewhere. On several occasions I followed
their tracks, and observed they were influenced entirely by their sight
when in search of it; at times attracted by a distant patch of deeper
verdure, at others following down a hollow or a watercourse, but I do not
recollect a single instance where they found water for themselves. The
horses, however, were naturally more restless and impatient, and, when we
approached a creek or a watercourse after a long journey, would descend
into the bed and follow it for long distances to find water; giving great
trouble to those who had to bring them back to the line of march.
Whenever they saw me halt at the place where I intended to encamp, they
not only quickened their pace, but often galloped towards me, well
knowing that I had found water, and that they were to be relieved of
their loads. In looking for water, my search was first made in the
neighbourhood of hills, ridges, and ranges, which from their extent and
elevation were most likely to lead me to it, either in beds of creeks, or
rivers, or in water-holes, parallel to them. In an open country, there
are many indications which a practised eye will readily seize: a cluster
of trees of a greener foliage, hollows with luxuriant grass, eagles
circling in the air, crows, cockatoos, pigeons (especially before
sunset), and the call of Grallina Australis and flocks of little finches,
would always attract our attention. The margins of scrubs were generally
provided with chains of holes. But a flat country, openly timbered,
without any break of the surface or of the forest, was by no means
encouraging; and I have frequently travelled more than twenty-five miles
in a straight line without obtaining my object, In coming on creeks, it
required some experience in the country, to know whether to travel up or
down the bed: some being well provided with water immediately at the foot
of the range, and others being entirely dry at their upper part, but
forming large puddled holes, lower down, in a flat country. From daily
experience, we acquired a sort of instinctive feeling as to the course we
should adopt, and were seldom wrong in our decisions.
The ridges, near the water-holes on which we were encamped, are composed
of an igneous rock containing much iron, with which the water was
impregnated to such a degree, that our tea turned quite black and inky.
The natives were very numerous in these parts, and their tracks were
everywhere visible. They had even followed the tracks of Mr. Gilbert's
and Brown's horses of the preceding day.
The night was bright; the day cloudy, and the wind easterly. I went with
Charley, in the afternoon of the 17th, to examine the extent of the
scrubby country, of which Mr. Gilbert had given us so poor an account.
The channel of the river became narrow and deep, with steep banks, as it
enters the scrub, and there the flooded gums entirely disappeared. The
scrub is about eight miles long, and from two to three miles broad, and
is tolerably open. The Bricklow is here a real tree, but of stunted
growth, with regularly fissured bark, like that of the Ironbark
(Eucalyptus resinifera). It has long broad falcate phyllodia, whilst
another species of the same size has an irregular scaly bark, with small
phyllodia, but of a greyer colour than those of the common Bricklow. Both
species grow promiscuously together. Where the river left the scrub, it
entered into a wild water-worn box flat, and cut up into several
irregular channels, lined by a dense thicket of narrow-leaved Melaleucas
of stunted growth and irregular shapes. The Box-tree itself is here a
different species, the bark has deeper fissures, and the young wood is
very yellow. I shall distinguish it by the name of "Water-box," as it
grows exclusively near creeks, or on the neighbouring flats. I first
observed it at the Mackenzie; its bark strips freely, but the stem is too
short and irregular to be of any use.
In passing a low hill, at the foot of which the box-flat commenced, we
came on a very distinct path of the natives, which led us to a deep
water-hole, covered with luxuriant grass; containing but a small quantity
of water. Farther on we came to a second hole better supplied, and to a
third; and at last Charley cried out, "Look there, Sir! what big water!"
and a long broad sheet of water stretched in sweeps through a dense
Bauhinia and Bricklow scrub, which covered its steep banks. It is a
singular character of this remarkable country, that extremes so often
meet; the most miserable scrub, with the open plain and fine forest land;
and the most paralysing dryness, with the finest supply of water.
Swarms of ducks covered the margin of the lake; pelicans, beyond the
reach of shot, floated on its bosom; land-turties plunged into its
waters; and shags started from dead trees lying half immersed, as we trod
the well-beaten path of the natives along its banks. The inhabitants of
this part of the country, doubtless, visit this spot frequently, judging
from the numerous heaps of muscle-shells. This fine piece of water,
probably in the main channel of the Suttor, is three miles long, and is
surrounded with one mass of scrub, which opens a little at its
north-western extremity.
March 10.--I continued my ride, ten or twelve miles down the river; the
scrub continued, but the immediate neighbourhood became a little more
open; several trees were observed, that had been recently cut by the
natives in search of honey or opossums. Emus were very numerous;
sometimes a solitary bird, and at others two, three, four, and up to
thirteen together, were seen trotting off in long file, and now and then
stopping to stare at us. We caught a bandicoot with two young ones, which
gave us an excellent luncheon. When we left the lake, Charley thought he
could distinguish a plain to the northward; and, riding in that
direction, I was agreeably surprised to find that the scrub did not
extend more than a mile and a-half from the river; and that, beyond it,
plains and open forest extended far to the northward; and fine ridges
with most excellent feed, to the southward. The traveller who is merely
following the course of a river, is unable to form a correct idea of the
country farther off, unless hills are near, from which he may obtain
extensive views. At the water-worn banks of the Mackenzie, I little
expected that we were in the vicinity of a country like that of Peak
Range; and I am consequently inclined to believe that much more available
land exists along the banks of the Suttor, where its valley is covered
with scrub, than we know anything about.
March 19.--The camp was removed to the lake of the Suttor, about twelve
miles and a-half N. 80 degrees W. We chased a flock of emus, but without
success; four of my companions went duck-shooting, but got very few; the
others angled, but nothing would bite.
The day was cloudy; some drizzling rain fell in the morning; the night
was clear. Lat. 21 degrees 37 minutes 31 minutes.
During my absence, my companions found a quantity of implements and
ornaments of the natives, in the neighbourhood of our last camp.
On the plains I found two new species of Sida; and, on the tea-trees, a
new form of Loranthus, with flowers in threes on a broad leafy bract,
scarcely distinguishable from the real leaves.
March 20.--We travelled down to the water-holes, at which I had turned
back. Sandstone rock cropped out on several spots, and pieces of broken
quartz were strewed over the ground. All the water-holes along the low
ridges and within the bed of the river, were full of water; and the
district seemed to be one of those which, from their peculiar
conformation of surface, are more frequently favoured by thunder-storms.
Native companions flew down the river, and flights of ducks held their
course in the same direction. With the hope of finding a good supply of
water lower down, we continued our journey on the 21st March. The creek
frequently divided into channels, forming large islands of a mile and a
mile and a-half in length, covered with scrub, and over which freshes had
swept. All at once, the water disappeared; the deepest holes were dry;
the Melaleucas were not to be found; the flooded-gums became very rare,
and the rich green grass was replaced by a scanty wiry grass. The whole
river seemed to divide into chains of dry water-holes, scarcely connected
by hollows. Two miles farther we came to a fine large water-hole,
surrounded by Polygonums and young water-grass, and, at two miles
farther, to another, and in about the same distance to a third. Recent
camps of the natives were on each of them, and a beaten path led from one
to the other. One of these holes was crossed by a weir made of sticks for
catching fish. Bones of large fish, turtle shells, and heaps of muscles,
were strewed round the fire places.
The whole day was bright and very hot; the wind in the afternoon from
E.S.E. The latitude of our last camp was 21 degrees 31 minutes 16
seconds, being about eighteen miles W.N.W. from the lake.
Mr. Roper and Brown rode about seven miles down the river, and found that
it again formed a large regular bed well supplied with water; and that
the country was of a more open character. They came suddenly upon two
women cooking mussels, who ran off, leaving their dinners to their
unwelcome visitors, who quickly dispatched the agreeable repast; farther
on they saw four men, who were too shy to approach. Charley also, whilst
bringing in the horses on the morning of the 22nd, passed a numerous
camp, who quietly rose and gazed at him, but did not utter a single word.
I travelled with my party to the water-holes found by Mr. Roper; on
approaching them, we crossed an extensive box-flat, near that part of the
river where it is split into collateral chains of holes. Talc-schiste
cropped out at the latter part of the journey; its strata were
perpendicular, and their direction from north-west to south-east; its
character was the same as that of Moreton Bay and New England; numerous
veins of quartz intersected the rock.
The water-holes were surrounded by high Polygonums; blue Nymphaeas were
observed in several of them; and ducks were very numerous.
The forenoon was cloudless and hot; cirrhous clouds formed in the
afternoon; with a breeze from the E.S.E. Our lat. was 21 degrees 25
minutes.
Mr. Gilbert and Charley, when on a reconnoitring ride, met another party
of natives; among them two gins were so horror-struck at the unwonted
sight, that they immediately fled into the scrub; the men commenced
talking to them, but occasionally interrupted their speeches by spitting
and uttering a noise like pooh! pooh! apparently expressive of their
disgust.
March 23.--The party moved on about ten miles to the north-east, and
encamped at the junction of a large creek which comes from the S.S.E. Its
character is similar to that of the Suttor; and I should not be surprised
if it should prove to be the northern anabranch of that creek, and which
we crossed on the 17th of March, the day before we arrived at the lake.
The country opens into lightly-timbered ridges, which are composed of a
hard rock, the sharp pieces of which covered the ground, and made our
animals foot-sore. It seems to me to be a clayey sandstone (Psammite)
penetrated by silica. A coarse-grained sandstone and quartzite cropped
out in that part of the river situated between the two camps. The
melon-holes of the box-flats were frequently over-grown with the
polygonaceous plant, mentioned at a former occasion; and the small scrub
plains were covered with a grey chenopodiaceous plant from three to four
feet high. The stiff-leaved Cymbidium was still very common, and two or
three plants of it were frequently observed on the same tree; its stem is
eatable, but glutinous and insipid.
The morning of Easter Sunday was very clear and hot; the wind from E.N.E.
As soon as we had celebrated the day with a luncheon of fat damper and
sweetened tea, I rode with Charley about seven or eight miles down the
river, and found abundance of water, not only in the bed of the river,
but in lines of lagoons parallel to it. Charley shot several ducks, which
were very numerous upon the water. Whilst riding along the bank of the
river, we saw an old woman before us, walking slowly and thoughtfully
through the forest, supporting her slender and apparently exhausted frame
with one of those long sticks which the women use for digging roots; a
child was running before her. Fearing she would be much alarmed if we
came too suddenly upon her,--as neither our voices in conversation, nor
the footfall of our horses, attracted her attention,--I cooeed gently;
after repeating the call two or three times, she turned her head; in
sudden fright she lifted her arms, and began to beat the air, as if to
take wing,--then seizing the child, and shrieking most pitifully, she
rapidly crossed the creek, and escaped to the opposite ridges. What could
she think; but that we were some of those imaginary beings, with legends
of which the wise men of her people frighten the children into obedience,
and whose strange forms and stranger doings are the favourite topics of
conversation amongst the natives at night when seated round their fires?
I observed a fine sienite on several spots; it is of a whitish colour,
and contains hornblende and mica in almost equal quantities; granite was
also seen, and both rocks probably belong to each other, the presence of
hornblende being local. A very hard pudding-stone crops out about nine
miles down the river. From the ridges, hills were seen to the N.N.E. and
to the westward. Vitex scrub is met with in patches of small extent. A
white crane, and the whistling duck, were seen. Black ducks and teal were
most common, and Charley shot eight of them. On the banks of the more or
less dry water-holes grows an annual leguminous plant, which shoots up
into a simple stem, often to the height of twelve feet; its neck and root
are covered with a spongy tissue; its leaves are pinnate, a foot or more
in length, with small leaflets; it bears mottled yellow flowers, in
axillary racemes; and long rough, articulate pods, containing small,
bright, olive-green seeds. I first saw this plant at Limestone, near
Moreton Bay, and afterwards at the water-holes of Comet River. It was
extremely abundant in the bed of the Burdekin, and was last seen on the
west side of the gulf of Carpentaria; I could, however, easily
distinguish three species of this plant. [They belong probably to the
two genera, Aeschynomene and Sesbania.]
Last evening, clouds gathered in the west, but cleared off after sunset;
the night again cloudy, the forenoon equally so; in the afternoon the
clouds were dissipated by a north-east wind.
March 24.--We travelled about nine miles N. 60 degrees W. along the
river; a small creek joined from the westward. At night we had a heavy
thunder-storm from the S.W.
March 25.--Weather very hot; clouds formed during the afternoon. We
continued our journey along the river to lat. 21 degrees 3 minutes; the
river winds considerably. We passed several hills at the latter part of
the stage. I ascended one of them, on the right bank of the river, and
obtained an extensive view of the country, which has a very uniform
character. There were ridges and low ranges to the westward, one of which
stretched from N. by W. far to the westward. The hill on which I stood
was composed of limestone rock; it was flat-topped, with steep slopes at
each end.
In lat. about 21 degrees 6 minutes, we crossed a large creek, densely
lined with dropping tea trees, coming from the westward. It was here we
first met with Careya arborea (Roxb.), a small tree from fifteen to
twenty feet high, with elliptical leaves of soft texture, four inches
long, and two in breadth; its fruit was about two inches long, contained
many seeds, and resembled that of the Guava. Its leaves, however, had
neither the vernation nor the pellucid dots of Myrtaceous trees. At the
junction of the creek, a great number of small Corypha palms were
growing, and my companions observed the dead stems of some very high
ones, whose tops had been cut off by the natives, probably to obtain the
young shoot. We passed hills of baked sandstone, before reaching the
creek, and afterwards crossed a fine sandy flat, with poplar-gum. The
river has a broad bed, at times dividing into several channels, lined
with stately Melaleucas and flooded-gum, and again uniting into one deep
channel, with long reaches of water surrounded by Polygonums, and
overgrown with blue Nymphaeas, Damasoniums, and Utricularias, and
inhabited by large flights of ducks. Rock occasionally enters into the
bed of the river. The collateral lines of water-holes are rarely
interrupted, and the ridges appear to be open on both sides of the river.
March 26.--We travelled along the river to lat. 20 degrees 53 minutes 42
seconds. Its course is almost due north. Yesterday, being out duck
shooting, we came suddenly upon a camp of natives, who were not a little
frightened by the report of our guns: they followed our tracks, however,
with wailing cries, and afterwards all of them sat down on the rocky
banks of the river, when we returned to our camp. To-day we passed the
place of their encampment with our whole train, and it was remarkable
that they neither heard nor saw us until we were close to them, though we
had seen them from a great distance. All the young ones ran away.
Dismounting from my horse, I walked up to an old man who had remained,
and who was soon after rejoined by another man. We had a long
unintelligible conversation, for neither Brown nor Charley could make out
a single word of their language. They were much surprised by the
different appearance of Charley's black skin and my own. Phillips wished
to exchange his jacket for one of their opossum cloaks, so I desired him
to put it on the ground, and then taking the cloak and placing it near
the jacket, I pointed to Phillips, and, taking both articles up, handed
the cloak to Phillips and the jacket to our old friend, who perfectly
understood my meaning. After some time he expressed a wish to have the
cloak back, and to keep the jacket, with which we had dressed him; but I
gave him to understand that he might have his cloak, provided he returned
the jacket; which arrangement satisfied him. A basket (dilli), which I
examined, was made of a species of grass which, according to Charley, is
found only on the sea coast.
We saw a Tabiroo (Mycteria) and a rifle bird. The morning was cloudy, but
very hot. Numerous heavy cumuli formed during the afternoon.
March 27.--We travelled to lat. 20 degrees 47 minutes 34 seconds. The
country along the river is undulating and hilly, and openly timbered. The
rock is of sandstone, and the ground is covered with quartz pebbles. In
lat. about 20 degrees 49 minutes, the Suttor is joined by a river as
large as itself, coming from the S.W. by W., and which changes the course
of the Suttor to the N.E. Just before the junction, the large bed of the
Suttor contracts into one deep channel, filled in its whole extent by a
fine sheet of water, on which Charley shot a pelican. I mention this
singular contraction, because a similar peculiarity was observed to occur
at almost every junction of considerable channels, as that of the Suttor
and Burdekin, and of the Lynd and the Mitchell. I named the river, which
here joins the Suttor, after Mr. Cape, the obliging commander of the
Shamrock steamer. The bed of the united rivers is very broad, with
several channels separated by high sandy bergues. The country back from
the river is formed by flats alternating with undulations, and is lightly
timbered with silver-leaved Ironbark, rusty gum, Moreton Bay ash, and
water box. The trees are generally stunted, and unfit for building; but
the drooping tea trees and the flooded-gum will supply sufficient timber
for such a purpose.
At our camp, at the bed of the river, granite crops out, and the sands
sparkle with leaflets of gold-coloured mica. The morning was clear and
hot; the afternoon cloudy; a thunder-storm to the north-east. We have
observed nothing of the sea-breeze of the Mackenzie and of Peak Range,
along the Suttor; but a light breeze generally sets in about nine o'clock
P.M.
Charley met with a flock of twenty emus, and hunted down one of them.
March 28.--We travelled down the river to latitude 20 degrees 41 minutes
35 seconds. The country was improving, beautifully grassed, openly
timbered, flat, or ridgy, or hilly; the ridges were covered with pebbles,
the hills rocky. The rocks were baked sandstone, decomposed granite, and
a dark, very hard conglomerate: the latter cropped out in the bed of the
river where we encamped. Pebbles of felspathic porphyry were found in the
river's bed. At some old camping places of the natives, we found the
seed-vessels of Pandanus, a plant which I had never seen far from the sea
coast; and also the empty shells of the seeds of a Cycas. Mr. Calvert,
John Murphy, and Brown, whom I had sent to collect marjoram, told me, at
their return, that they had seen whole groves of Pandanus trees; and
brought home the seed-vessel of a new Proteaceous tree. I went to examine
the locality, and found, on a sandy and rather rotten soil, the Pandanus
abundant, growing from sixteen to twenty feet high, either with a simple
stem and crown, or with a few branches at the top. The Proteaceous tree
was small, from twelve to fifteen feet high, of stunted and irregular
habit, with dark, fissured bark, and large medullary rays in its red
wood: its leaves were of a silvery colour, about two inches and a half
long, and three-quarters broad; its seed-vessels woody and orbicular,
like the single seed-vessels of the Banksia conchifera; the seeds were
surrounded by a broad transparent membrane. This tree, which I afterwards
found every where in the neighbourhood of the gulf of Carpentaria, was in
blossom from the middle of May to that of June. The poplar-gum, the
bloodwood, the melaleuca of Mt. Stewart, the Moreton Bay ash, the little
Severn tree, and a second species of the same genus with smooth leaves,
were growing on the same soil. The grasses were very various,
particularly in the hollows: and the fine bearded grass of the Isaacs
grew from nine to twelve feet in height. Charley brought me a branch of a
Cassia with a thyrse of showy yellow blossoms, which he said he had
plucked from a shrub about fifteen feet high.
We encamped about two miles from the foot of a mountain bearing about
N.E. from us; I called it Mount McConnel, after Fred. McConnel, Esq., who
had most kindly contributed to my expedition. The Suttor winds round its
western base, and, at four or five miles beyond it, in a northerly
direction, and in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 13 seconds joins a
river, the bed of which, at the junction, is fully a mile broad. Narrow
and uninterrupted belts of small trees were growing within the bed of the
latter, and separated broad masses of sand, through which a stream ten
yards broad and from two to three feet deep, was meandering; but which at
times swells into large sheets of water, occasionally occupying the whole
width of the river. Charley reported that he had seen some black swans,
and large flights of ducks and pelicans. This was the most northern point
at which the black swan was observed on our expedition.
CHAPTER VII
THE BURDEKIN--TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE
ROCKS--THACKER'S RANGE--WILD FIGS--GEOLOGICAL REMARKS--THE CLARKE--THE
PERRY.
As this place afforded every convenience for killing and curing another
bullock, we remained here for that purpose from the 29th March to the 2nd
of April. The weather was favourable for our operations, and I took two
sets of lunar observations, the first of which gave me longitude 146
degrees 1 minutes, and the second, 145 degrees 58 minutes. The mornings
were generally either cloudless, or with small cumuli, which increased as
the day advanced, but disappeared at sunset; the wind was, as far as I
could judge, northerly, north-easterly, and easterly.
April 2.--The Suttor was reported by Charley to be joined by so many
gullies and small creeks, running into it from the high lands, which
would render travelling along its banks extremely difficult, that I
passed to the east side of Mount McConnel, and reached by that route the
junction of the Suttor with the newly discovered river, which I called
the Burdekin, in acknowledgment of the liberal assistance which I
received from Mrs. Burdekin of Sidney, in the outfit of my expedition.
The course of this river is to the east by south; and I thought that it
would most probably enter the sea in the neighbourhood of Cape Upstart.
Flood marks, from fifteen to eighteen feet above the banks, showed that
an immense body of water occasionally sweeps down its wide channel.
I did not ascend Mount McConnel, but it seemed to be composed of a
species of domite. On the subordinate hills I observed sienite. The bed
of the river furnished quite a collection of primitive rocks: there were
pebbles of quartz, white, red, and grey; of granite; of sienite; of
felspathic porphyry, hornblende, and quartz-porphyry; and of slate-rock.
The morning was cloudless. In the afternoon, heavy cumuli, which
dissolved towards sunset; a strong wind from the north and north by east.
A very conspicuous hill, bearing E.N.E. from the junction of the rivers,
received the name of Mount Graham, after R. Graham, Esq., who had most
liberally contributed to my expedition.
Mr. Gilbert found a large calabash attached to its dry vine, which had
been carried down by the waters. Several other very interesting
cucurbitaceous fruits, and large reeds, were observed among the rubbish
which had accumulated round the trees during the flood.
April 3.--We travelled up the Burdekin, in a north-north-west direction,
to latitude 20 degrees 31 minutes 20 seconds. The country was hilly and
mountainous; the soil was stony; and the banks of the river were
intersected by deep gullies and creeks. The forest vegetation was the
same as that on the lower Suttor. Among the patches of brush which are
particularly found at the junction of the larger creeks with the river,
we observed a large fig-tree, from fifty to sixty feet high, with a rich
shady foliage; and covered with bunches of fruit. The figs were of the
size of a small apple, of an agreeable flavour when ripe, but were full
of small flies and ants. These trees were numerous, and their situation
was readily detected by the paths of the natives leading to them: a proof
that the fruit forms one of their favourite articles of food. The
drooping tea trees, which had increased both in number and size, grew in
company with an arborescent Calistemon, along the water's edge; and a
species of Eucalyptus, somewhat resembling Angophora intermedia, was
discovered at this spot: it occurs frequently to the northward, and is
common round the gulf of Carpentaria. The small Acacia tree of Expedition
Range was frequently seen in the forest, and was covered with an
amber-coloured gum, that was eatable, but tasteless: Hakea lorea (R.
Br.), and Grevillea ceratophylla (R. Br.); the Ebenaceous tree, and that
with guava-like fruit (lareya), were all numerous. The bed of the river
was covered with the leguminous annual I noticed at the Suttor; it grew
here so high and thick that my companions were unable to see me, though
riding only a few yards from them.
Rock frequently crops out in the bed of the river, and in the
neighbouring hills. Several hills at the right bank were formed by a kind
of thermantide of a whitish grey, or red colour, and which might be
scratched easily with a penknife. Other conical hills or short ranges,
with irregular rugged crests, were composed of granite of many varieties,
red and white, fine grained without hornblende, or containing the latter
substance, and changing into sienite; and, at one place, it seemed as if
it had broken through Psammite. I observed quartzite in several
localities, and a hard pudding-stone extending for a considerable
distance. We were, no doubt, on the transition from the depository to the
primitive rocks; and a detailed examination of this interesting part of
the country would be very instructive to the geologist, as to the
relative age and position of the rocks.
A small fish, with yellow and dark longitudinal lines, and probably
belonging to the Cyprinidae, was caught. Wind prevailed from the
northward: the forenoon was cloudless; heavy cumuli in the afternoon.
We travelled at first on the right side of the river; but its banks
became so mountainous and steep, and the gullies so deep, that we were
compelled to cross it at a place where it was very deep, and where our
horses and cattle had to swim. Many of our things got wet, and we were
delayed by stopping to dry them.
April 4.--We moved our camp to latitude 20 degrees 24 minutes 12 seconds,
a distance of about nine miles N.W. by N. We passed several granitic
peaks and ranges; one of which I ascended, and enjoyed an extensive view.
The character of the country changed very little: open narrow-leaved
Ironbark forest on a granitic sand, full of brilliant leaflets of mica.
Some deep creeks came from the eastward. To the west and north-west
nothing was to be seen but ridges; but high imposing ranges rise to the
north and north-east. At one spot, large masses of calcareous spar were
scattered over the ground; they were probably derived from a vein in the
granite.
Three black ducks, (Anas Novae Hollandiae) were shot. Tracks of native
dogs were numerous; and a bitch came fearlessly down to the river, at a
short distance from our camp. Our kangaroo dog ran at her, and both fell
into the water, which enabled the bitch to escape.
April 5.--We re-crossed the river, which was not very deep, and travelled
about nine miles N. 75 degrees W. The river flows parallel to a high
mountain range, at about three or four miles from its left bank. I named
this after Mr. Robey, another friendly contributor to my outfit. A large
creek very probably carries the waters from this range to the Burdekin,
in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes. The country was very ridgy and hilly;
and we found it exceedingly difficult to proceed along the river. We
observed the poplar-gum again in the open forest, and a fine drooping
loranthus growing on it. Pandanus was also very frequent, in clusters
from three to eight trees. The clustered fig-tree gave us an ample supply
of fruit, which, however, was not perfectly mellow.
Veins of calcareous spar and of quartz were again observed. I ascended a
lofty hill, situated about a mile and a half to the west of our
encampment, and found it composed of felspathic porphyry, with a greyish
paste containing small crystals of felspar; but, in the bed of the river,
the same rock was of a greenish colour, and contained a great number of
pebbles of various rocks, giving it the aspect of a conglomerate; but
recognisable by its crystals of felspar, and from its being connected
with the rock of the hill. From the top of the hill, which is wooded with
a silver-leaved Ironbark, I saw a very mountainous country to the N.N.W.
and northward, formed into detached ranges and isolated peaks, some of
which were apparently very high; but to the north-west and west no ranges
were visible.
A thunder-storm threatened on the 4th, but we had only some light
showers: the morning of the 5th was very hot, and the afternoon rainy.
Wind from north and north-east. Nights clear.
April 6.--We travelled about ten miles N. 35 degrees W. over a ridgy,
openly timbered, stony and sandy country, and crossed several sandy
creeks, in which a species of Melaleuca, and another of Tristania were
growing. No part of the country that we had yet seen, resembled the
northern parts of New England so much as this. The rock was almost
exclusively granitic isolated blocks; detached heaps, and low ridges
composed of it were frequently met with in the open forest. We passed two
small hillocks of milkwhite quartz; fragments of this rock, as well as of
calcareous spar, were often observed scattered over the ground. The river
here made a large bend to the northward, still keeping parallel to
Robey's Range, or a spur of it; and, when it again turned to the
westward, another fine high range was visible to the north by east and
north-east of it; which I named "Porter's Range," in acknowledgment of
the kindness of another of the contributors to my expedition. Its
latitude is about 20 degrees 14 minutes.
April 7.--Travelled about ten miles N. 70 degrees W. The country became
more level, more open, and better grassed; the gullies were farther
apart, and headed generally in fine hollows. Two large creeks joined the
river from the westward; and a still larger one came from the northward,
and which probably carries off the water from the country round a fine
peak, and a long razorback mountain which we saw in that direction.
North-west of Porter's Range, and between it and the razorback, were two
small peaks. The timber is of the same kind, but larger. The poplar-gum
was more frequent, and we always found patches of fine grass near it;
even when all the surrounding Ironbark bark forest was burnt. The large
clustered fig-trees were not numerous along the river; we perhaps passed
from three to five in the course of a day's journey; though young ones,
without fruit, were often seen.
Heavy clouds gathered during the afternoon of the 6th, and it rained
throughout the night; the wind was from N. and N.E. In the morning of the
7th some drops of rain fell, but the weather cleared up during the day;
wind easterly. The moon changed this day, and we experienced a heavy
thunder-storm during the afternoon.
April 8.--We travelled about nine miles N. 70 degrees W., to latitude 20
degrees 9 minutes 11 seconds. The river made a bend to the southward, and
then, at a sharp angle, turned again to the north-west. At this angle a
large creek joined it from the south; another instance of creeks joining
larger channels, coming in a direction almost opposite to their course.
Two other creeks joined the Burdekin during this stage; one from the
south-west, and another from the north. The grass was particularly rich
at these junctions. The river became considerably narrower, but still had
a fine stream. Thunder-storms had probably fallen higher up its course,
causing a fresh; for its waters, hitherto clear, had become turbid.
Narrow patches of brush were occasionally met with along its banks, and I
noticed several brush trees, common in other parts of the country.
Besides the clustered fig, and another species with rough leaves and
small downy purple fruit, there were a species of Celtis; the Melia
Azederach (White Cedar); a species of Phyllanthus, (a shrub from six to
ten feet high); an Asclepiadaceous climber, with long terete twin
capsules; and several Cucurbitaceae, one with oblong fruit about an inch
long, another with a round fruit half an inch in diameter, red and white,
resembling a gooseberry; a third was of an oblong form, two inches and a
half long and one broad; and a fourth was of the size and form of an
orange, and of a beautiful scarlet colour: the two last had an
excessively bitter taste. The night and morning were cloudy, with a
southerly wind, but it cleared up at eleven o'clock. Cumuli in the
afternoon, with wind from the south-east.
From our camp we saw a range of hills, bearing between N. 5 degrees W.
and N. 10 degrees W.; they were about three miles distant. I called them
"Thacker's Range," in acknowledgment of the support I received
from--Thacker, Esq., of Sidney.
April 9.--We travelled about nine miles W. by N., and made our latitude
20 degrees 8 minutes 26 seconds. The western end of Thacker's Range bore
N.E. Two large creeks joined the river from the south and south-west. The
country was openly timbered; the Moreton Bay ash grew along the bergue of
the river, where a species of Grewia seemed its inseparable companion.
The flooded-gum occupied the hollows and slopes of the river banks, which
were covered with a high stiff grass to the water's edge, and the stream
was fringed with a thicket of drooping tea trees, which were
comparatively small, and much bent by the force of floods, the probable
frequency of which may account for the reduced size of the tree. The
ridges were covered with rusty Gum and narrow-leaved Ironbark. An
Erythrina and the Acacia of Expedition Range were plentiful. The grass
was rich and of various species. The granite rock still prevailed. A
felspathic rock cropped out near the second creek, where I met with a
dark rock, composed of felspar and horneblende (Diorite.) Our camp was
pitched at the foot of a series of small conical hills, composed of
porphyry. A larger range to the southward of it was also porphyritic,
very hard, as if penetrated by quartz, and containing small crystals of
flesh-coloured felspar. Sienite cropped out on the flats between these
two ranges. I commanded a most extensive view from the higher range. High
and singularly crenelated ranges were seen to the south-west; detached
peaks and hills to the westward; short ranges and peaks to the north; and
considerable ranges between north and north-east. A river was observed to
join the Burdekin from the ranges to the south-west.
Numerous kangaroos were seen bounding over the rocky slopes to the grassy
glens below. A stunted silver-leaved Ironbark covered the hills.
April 10.--The night was very cold, particularly towards morning, and the
dew heavy; the morning was calm; a breeze from the south-east set in at
nine o'clock a.m.; cumuli formed about eleven o'clock, and became very
heavy during the afternoon.
The country over which we travelled about eight miles N. by W., was one
of the finest we had seen. It was very open, with some plains, slightly
undulating or rising into ridges, beautifully grassed and with sound
ground. We crossed the river I had seen the preceding day from the hill,
and found it running. Two large creeks, one from the right and the other
from the left, also joined the Burdekin. I observed Pegmatite of a white
colour, and hornblende Porphyry and Diorite. A shrubby Clerodendron and
an arborescent Bursaria, covered with white blossoms, adorned the forest.
The latitude was 20 degrees 0 minutes 36 seconds.
April 11.--We continued our journey up the river, in a W.N.W. direction,
for about ten miles. The first part of our journey lay through a most
beautiful country. The hollows along the river were covered with a dense
sward of various grasses, and the forest was open as far as the eye could
reach. Farther on, however, we occasionally met with patches of Vitex
scrub, and crossed some stony ridges. A small river joined from the
north-east, at about a mile and a half from the last camp, and also two
large creeks from the south-west. I ascended the hills opposite our camp,
and looked over an immense and apparently flat country, out of which
small peaks and short ranges rose. The hills on which I stood were
composed of Pegmatite, with patches of white Mica in large leaflets.
During the journey we found granite changing into gneiss, diorite, and
quartz rock.
On the rocky crest of the hill, I gathered the pretty red and black seeds
of a leguminous climbing shrub (Abrus precatorius). Phonolithic or
basaltic pebbles made me suppose that we were near to a change of
country. Our latitude was 19 degrees 58 minutes 11 seconds.
April 12.--We had scarcely travelled a mile and a half, when we had to
cross a large creek, which increased in size higher up. Box-tree flats
and open Vitex scrub extended along its banks, and the latter, according
to Mr. Roper's account, changed into dense Bricklow scrub. At the
junction of the creek and the river, we came on a dyke of basalt, the
flat summit of which was so rough that we were compelled to travel along
the flats of the creek, which for a long distance ran parallel to the
Burdekin. The soil on the basalt was so shallow that it sustained only a
scanty vegetation of grass and some few scattered narrow-leaved Ironbark
trees. We crossed this dyke, however, and at about three miles descended
from it into a fine narrow-leaved Ironbark flat, extending along the
river, in which another large creek from the south-west joined the
Burdekin. The flat was bounded by hills of limestone, cropping out in
large blocks, with visible stratification, but without fossils. Having
passed the third creek in the course of this day's journey, we encamped
on the commencement of another basaltic dyke. The bed of the creek was
full of blocks of Sienite, of hornblende Porphyry, of greenish Pegmatite,
and of cellular Basalt. The river here formed a large sheet of water;
large masses of a white Sienite protruded out of it, opposite the
junction of the creek. The opposite bank exhibited a very perfect and
instructive geological section of variously bent and lifted strata of
limestone, which was afterwards found to contain innumerable fossils,
particularly corals and a few bivalve shells. The Rev. W. B. Clarke, of
Paramatta, kindly undertook to examine the fossils brought from this
locality. One he determined to be an undescribed species of Cyathophyllum,
and has done me the honour to give my name to it [Refer Note 1 at end of
chapter]. The others belonged principally to the following genera, viz.,
Asterias, Caryophyllea, and Madrepora. The right bank of the river rose
into steep cliffs of basalt, under which the clustered fig tree, with its
dense foliage, formed a fine shady bower. The basaltic dyke was about a
mile and a half broad, and I followed it about five miles up the river.
Its summit was flat, rough, and rocky; at the distance of four miles from
our camp it receded a little from the river, and there limestone was
observed, crowded with fossils like that on the opposite side of the
river. Two miles farther, the bed of the river was formed by a felspathic
rock, with beautiful dendrites. A small island, with a chain of lagoons
on one side, and with the river on the other, was also composed of this
rock, in contact with, and covered by, basalt in several places. There
were small falls and rapids in several parts of the river. A beaten
foot-path of the natives, and many fire-places, showed that this part of
it was much frequented by them. Wallabies were very numerous between the
cliffs of the felspathic rock; and the fine fig trees along the banks of
the river were covered with ripe fruit. The river made a wide sweep round
the left side of a large limestone hill, whilst a chain of deep basaltic
water-holes continued on its right. The basalt ceased to the westward of
the limestone hill, and was succeeded by considerable flats of Ironbark,
Moreton Bay ash, and Bloodwood. The Capparis still exhibited a few showy
flowers. I examined the country thus far on the 12th April, after the
camp had been formed; on returning, I took with me a large supply of ripe
figs, of which we partook freely, and which caused several of us to
suffer severely from indigestion, though we had frequently eaten small
quantities of them without inconvenience.
April 13.--We avoided the field of basalt by moving up the creek we last
crossed, about four miles, and by crossing over to the flats of the river
where the basalt terminated. These flats, however, were again interrupted
by a basaltic dyke, over which we were compelled to travel, as the steep
banks of the river were on one side, and black bare rocks, forming
sometimes regular walls with a dense scrub between them, prevented us
from turning to the other. After descending from the basalt, we crossed a
good-sized creek from the south-west, and travelled over a fine open
country to lat. 19 degrees 49 minutes 41 seconds.
Two hills were close to the left side of the Burdekin, which, at their
base, were joined by a large running creek from the N.N.W. From the
limestone hill of yesterday, no other hill was visible to the westward,
though ranges and isolated hills lay to the north and north-east, and a
high blue mountain to the south-west.
Some days ago I found, for the first time, Spathodea alternifolia (R.
Br.), which we continued to meet with throughout the remainder of our
journey. I saw but one flower of it, but its falcate seed-vessels, often
more than a foot long, were very numerous. Pandanus spiralis was
frequent. The box (Eucalyptus), on the flats along the creek, the soil of
which is probably formed of the detritus of basaltic rock, had a
lanceolate glossy leaf, uniting the character of the box with glossy
orbicular leaves growing generally on the whinstone soil of the northern
parts of the colony, and of the box with long lanceolate leaves which
prefers stiff flats on the tributary creeks of the Hunter. A Bottle-tree
with a Platanus leaf (Sterculia?) grew in the scrub on the field of
basalt, and was in full blossom. A pretty species of Commelyna, on the
flats, a cucurbitaceous plant with quinquepalmate leaves and large white
blossoms, grew along the river, the approaches of which were rendered
almost inaccessible by a stiff high grass. Charley brought me the long
flower-stalk of Xanthorrhaea from some ridges, which were, doubtless,
composed of sandstone.
Two kangaroos were seen; they were of middle size, and of a yellowish
grey colour, and seemed to live principally about the basaltic ridges.
The cooee of natives had been heard only once during our journey along
the banks of the Burdekin; and the traces of their former presence had
not been very frequently observed. Large lagoons full of fish or mussels
form a greater attraction to the natives than a stream too shallow for
large fish, and, from its shifting sands, incapable of forming large
permanent holes. Wherever we met with scrub with a good supply of water,
we were sure of finding numerous tracks of the natives, as game is so
much more abundant where a dense vegetation affords shelter from its
enemies.
April 14.--Last night, at seven o'clock, a strong breeze set in from the
northward, and continued for about an hour, when it became perfectly
calm. If this was the same breeze which we had observed at the Mackenzie
at eight o'clock, and which set in earlier and earlier, as we travelled
along the Isaacs and Suttor (though it was less regular in these places)
until we felt it at about six o'clock, we were now most evidently
receding from the eastern coast.
We travelled in a N. 60 degrees W. direction to lat. 19 degrees 45
minutes 36 seconds. A basaltic ridge, similar to those we had passed,
extended in an almost straight line from south-east to north-west; it was
covered with a scanty vegetation, with a few small narrow-leaved Ironbark
trees and Erythrinas; the river now approached it, now left it in wide
sweeps enclosing fine narrow-leaved Ironbark flats. To the south-west
side of this ridge or dyke, the soil is basaltic, with box-trees and open
Vitex scrub. The sharp conical hills of the white ant, constructed of red
clay, were very numerous. A very perfect bower of the bower-bird was seen
in a patch of scrub trees.
In a gully, a loose violet coloured sandstone cropped out, over which the
basalt had most evidently spread. Farther on, the ridge enlarged and
formed small hillocks, with bare rock cropping out at their tops;--a form
of surface peculiar to the basaltic or whinstone country of this colony.
Charley shot the sheldrake of Port Essington, (Tadorna Rajah). The
singular hissing or grinding note of the bower bird was heard all along
the river; the fruit of the fig trees growing near, which seemed to
supply it with its principal food during this part of the year.
April 15.--One of our bullocks had gone back on our tracks, and thereby
prevented our starting so early as usual. We travelled in a N. 40 degrees
W. direction to latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 25 seconds. The basaltic
country continued, and apparently extended a great distance from the
river. The flats along the latter were less extensive. Sandstone cropped
out in deep gullies, and in the bed of the river; it was naturally soft
and coarse, but where it rose into hillocks near basalt, it changed into
a fine baked sandstone, resembling quartzite, which, when in contact with
the igneous rock, looked like burnt bricks. Near our camp, a dyke or wall
of the aspect of a flinty red conglomerate, crossed the river from
south-west to north-east. I believe that this rock belongs to the
porphyries of Glendon, and of the upper Gloucester. We continued to feel
the breeze, or rather a puff of wind, between 7 and 8 o'clock at night;
it was often very strong and cold, and prevented the mosquitoes from
molesting us.
April 16.--We proceeded north by west to latitude 19 degrees 32 minutes,
and crossed several gullies coming from the basaltic ridges: these,
however, receded far from the river, and large box and Ironbark flats
took their place for about three miles, when the ridges re-appeared.
Between four and five miles from the bar of red rock above mentioned, a
fine large creek joined the Burdekin from the westward. The box and
Ironbark forest was interrupted by slight rises of limestone full of
corals; and by a higher hill of baked sandstone, at the foot of which a
limestone hill was covered with a patch of Vitex scrub. The strata of the
limestone seemed to dip to the southward.
The opposite banks of the river were ridgy, but openly timbered, and this
fine country, with its well grassed flats, and its open ridges, seemed to
extend very far on both sides. Messrs. Gilbert and Roper went to the top
of the hill, and saw ranges trending from west to north, with that
crenelated outline which I had before seen and mentioned: they
distinguished a large valley, and the smoke of several fires of the
natives along the range. A large lagoon was at the western foot of the
hill on which they were. A large creek was seen, by Brown, to join the
Burdekin from the north-east, at a short mile from our encampment. A
baked sandstone and pudding-stone of a white colour projected into the
river at the place, which not only exhibited the transition from one rock
into the other, but it showed the action of igneous rocks on both, and
gave a clue to the nature of the red rock I described yesterday. In the
thicket which covered the rock, I observed Pomaderris of Moreton Bay. In
decreasing our latitude, both Mr. Gilbert and myself were inclined to
think that, whenever a bird or a plant disappeared, it was owing to that
circumstance. In this, however, we were frequently mistaken: trees and
herbaceous plants disappeared with the change of soil, and the decrease
of moisture, and the birds kept to a certain vegetation: and, as soon as
we came to similar localities, familiar forms of plants and birds
re-appeared. Almost all the scrub-trees of the Condamine and Kent's
Lagoon were still to be seen at the Burdekin; and the isolated waters
near grassy flats were visited by swarms of little finches, which Mr.
Gilbert had observed at Port Essington, and which, in all probability,
belonged to the whole extent of country between that place and the region
of the tropics. This slight change of vegetation, and particularly of the
inland Flora, from south to north, is no doubt connected with the
uniformity of the soil and climate: and the immense difference which
exists between the eastern and western coast, has led men of science and
of observation, not without good reason, to infer that this continent was
originally divided into two large islands, or into an archipelago, which
have been united by their progressive, and, perhaps, still continued,
elevation. As an exception, however, to this remark, a very sudden change
of the Flora was observed, when we entered into the basin of the gulf of
Carpentaria, after leaving the eastern waters, although the Flora of the
north-west coast and Port Essington, was little different from that of
the gulf.
April 17.--We travelled about nine miles N. 40 degrees W. On our way we
passed a hill of baked sandstone, and several gullies. About five miles
from our last camp, a large creek joined the river; beyond that creek,
the country was, without exception, open, and rather of a more undulating
character; the flats were somewhat rotten: the river became narrower, but
was still running strong; and numerous ducks sported on its shady pools.
April 18.--Last night we had a very cold north-easterly wind, and, during
the day, some few drops of drizzling rain. We travelled about N. by W. to
latitude 19 degrees 18 minutes 16 seconds. After passing some gullies, we
came into a more broken and hilly country; the river formed here a large
anabranch. The Ironbark trees, which timbered the extensive flat along
the river, became much finer; but the soil was rotten: the poplar-gum
grew on the stiff soil of the hollows. About six miles from our last
camp, we came to ranges of high hills of a conical form, and with rounded
tops, striking from west to east, and then entered a narrow valley,
bounded on each side by rocky hills. Mr. Roper observed a rugged country
to the northward, and a fine high range to the south-east. The whole
country from the large flat to our camp, was composed of felspathic
porphyry, containing crystals of felspar, and accidentally of quartz, in
a paste varying in colour and hardness. In the bed of the river, I still
found pebbles of pegmatite, granite, quartz, and basalt; indicating that
a country of varied character was before us.
The stream wound its way from one side of the broad sandy bed to the
other; and those parts where it flowed, were generally very steep, and
covered with a dense vegetation, whilst, on the opposite side, the banks
sloped gently into the broad sands. Among the shrubs and grasses, a downy
Abutelon was easily distinguished by its large bright yellow blossoms.
My Blackfellows procured several messes of ducks; and Brown brought me a
piece of indurated clay with impressions of water-plants.
April 19.--Continuing our journey in a north-west direction, we passed
over some very rocky hills, composed of indurated clay, and thin strata
of sandstone, and pudding-stone. By moving along the foot of a range of
high hills, we avoided all those deep gullies which intersected the banks
of the river, and travelled with ease through a flat, well grassed
Ironbark forest. The hills were covered, as usual, with stunted
silver-leaved Ironbark. A large creek came from the range, and entered
the river. A good section on its right bank exposed to view the strata of
indurated clay and sandstone; and I was induced to believe that coal
might be found below them. As we were passing over the flat between the
creck and the river, we saw a native busily occupied in burning the
grass, and eagerly watching its progress: the operation attracted several
crows, ready to seize the insects and lizards which might be driven from
their hiding places by the fire. Mr. Calvert, Brown, and Charley, rode
nearly up to the man before he was aware of their approach; when he took
to his heels, and fled in the greatest consternation.
Upon reaching the river, at about eight miles from our last camp, we
found that it was joined by another river of almost the same size as the
Burdekin: it had a stream, and came from the northward, whilst the course
of the Burdekin at this place was from the west to east. From the
junction a long range trended to the north-east, and moderate ranges
bounded the valley of the river from the northward; another range
extended along the left side of the Burdekin above the junction; and
basaltic ridges, which had broken through the sandstone, approached on
its right. The cucurbitaceous plant with palmate leaves, bore a fruit of
the size of a large orange, of a fine scarlet colour when ripe; its rind
is exceedingly bitter, but the seeds are eaten by birds. Mr. Phillips
found a flesh-coloured drupaceous oblong fruit, about half an inch long,
with a very glutinous pericarp, containing a slightly compressed rough
stone: in taste it resembled the fruit of Loranthus, and the birds,
particularly the coekatoos, appeared very fond of it. We all ate a great
quantity of them, without the slightest injury. It grew on a small tree,
and had a persistent calyx.
April 20.--We travelled in a N. 80 degrees W. course to latitude 19
degrees 9 minutes 88 seconds. Rocky ranges frequently approached the
river, and deep and intricate gullies descended from them to the latter.
Our progress was consequently very difficult, and we were compelled to
ascend a very high hill to avoid its slopes towards the river, which were
too steep for us to cross. As a recompense, however, for the difficulty
of the ascent, I had the pleasure of finding some very interesting plants
on its summit; particularly a small Acacia with verticillate leaves,
which Dr. Binoe, the surgeon of H. M. S. Beagle, had found on the
north-west coast; and two other Acacias equally new to me, and which were
afterwards found to extend to the heads of the South Alligator River.
From this hill we had a magnificent view of the country before us: it was
enclosed on all sides by high mountain ranges, of which one in particular
overtopped the rest. Porphyry was observed on several spots; indurated
clay frequently; and, on the top of the hill below which we encamped, I
found quartz porphyry, and at the foot a psammite? which I had met
several times associated with talc-schiste.
April 21.--We continued our journey in a S. 50 degrees W. course to
latitude 19 degrees 13 minutes. The country became still more
mountainous; we passed, notwithstanding, many large well grassed flats,
on which the timber grew to a greater size than we had observed it at the
lower part of the river. The poplar-gum was very frequent in the hollow,
and low stiff flats extended parallel to the river. The prevailing rock
was talc-schiste, alternating with layers of psammite. On the hills and
in the creeks, I frequently observed conglomerate, with many pieces of
quartz.
The drooping Hakea of Kent's Lagoon (Hakea lorea, R. Br.; Grevillea
lorea, R. Br. Prodr. Nov. Holl. I. p. 380) was in blossom; and on the
rocky slopes I found a new species of Hakea, having linear lanceolate
leaves with axillary fascicules of small brownish flowers: it was an
arborescent shrub, from three to six feet high; and is nearly allied to
H. arborescens (R. Br. Prodr. p. 386).
A high imposing range was visible to the northward.
April 22.--We travelled about nine miles west, making our latitude 19
degrees 12 minutes. Ranges ran parallel to the river at different
distances: we left a very fine one to the south-west and south, from
which the large creek we passed about two miles from our last camp,
probably descends. Three miles farther, a river as large or even larger
than the Burdekin, joins the latter from the westward and south-west--
the Burdekin coming down from the north-west. I was doubtful which of the
two rivers I ought to follow; but finding, after a close examination,
that the north-west branch was running, whilst the south-west one
contained only large, long, but unconnected reaches of water, I
determined upon following the north-west branch. I called the south-west
branch the "Clarke," in compliment to the Rev. W. B. Clarke of Paramatta,
who has been, and is still, most arduously labouring to elucidate the
meteorology and the geology of this part of the world. About three miles
above the junction, a creek of considerable size joined the Burdekin from
the northward. Wherever the ridges approached the banks of the river,
gullies which were scrubby at their heads, became numerous. After having
encamped, I rode over to the "Clarke," to examine the intervening
country. The flat along the Burdekin was about two miles and a half
broad, and was skirted by silver-leaved Ironbark ridges. In approaching
the Clarke, we came to a low basaltic range, which bounded its fine broad
openly timbered valley to the northward. The bed of the river was formed
by talc-schiste, in strata, the strike of which was from north by west to
south by east, standing almost perpendicular, with a slight dip to the
eastward. The stream was perpendicular on the line of striking. The
pebbles in its bed were mostly basaltic, baked sandstone, conglomerate,
quartz, sienite, and porphyry. I had observed the valley of this river
from a high hill near our last camp, and had distinguished many
headlands, which I now think were the bluff terminations of lateral
basaltic ranges. The valley was bounded on its southern side by a long
low range.
The blue mountain parrot was very frequent near our camp.
I have mentioned a small round eatable tuber, which I found in the basket
of a native gin on the 2nd January. I here found it to be the large end
of the tap root of a Potamogeton, or a plant nearly allied to that genus;
I found it with another interesting water-plant, with foliated spikes of
blue flowers, in a small water-hole near our last camp.
April 23.--We travelled about north-west to latitude 19 degrees 4 minutes
41 seconds, over a succession of fine flats; one or two of which were
almost exclusively timbered with poplar-gum, which always indicated a
sound stiff soil. These flats were separated by shallow gullies, and some
Casuarina creeks, which come probably from the dividing ridges of the two
rivers. Ridges and ranges were seen on both sides, at different
distances. The Casuarina became more frequent along the banks of the
river. It was rather remarkable that the Moreton Bay ash, which is so
abundant along the Burdekin, was altogether wanting at the Clarke.
Several lagoons were observed at the foot of the ridges; and near them we
saw two flocks of the harlequin pigeon (Peristera histrionica).
Talc-schiste cropped out in one of the deep creeks. Whilst travelling on
the Burdekin, with the exception of some ducks and a few kangaroos, we
had seen but very little game; but yesterday, when riding to the Clarke,
two flocks of kangaroos passed me: a proof that the country is not so
destitute of game as I had thought. The waters are inhabited by four
varieties of fish; one was probably a Gristes, about eight inches long,
and from one and a half to two inches broad, of a lanceolate shape, with
bright yellow spots all over the body; a second smaller than Gristes,
with dark stripes; a third about a foot long, and three inches broad,
belonging to the Percidae; and a fourth, a small fish, which seemed to be
allied to the Cyprinidae. Larger fish exist, probably, in the deep rocky
basins of water which we occasionally passed; but we never succeeded in
catching any; nor did we hear any of the splashing, which was so
incessant during the night at the Mackenzie. The shell and bones of the
turtle indicated its presence in the shady ponds fringed by drooping tea
trees. Large holes in the banks immediately above the water, were
probably inhabited by water rats or lizards. A common carpet snake was
killed. Whenever we passed through open Vitex scrub, with its stiff loamy
soil, we were sure of meeting a great number of the conical constructions
of the white ant: they were from one to three feet high, very narrow, and
tapering to a sharp point.
April 24.--To-day we travelled along the river over an open country,
intersected by some gullies; the course of the river was, for about four
miles, from north to south, and, at that distance from our camp, was
joined by a river coming from the northward, which I now take the liberty
of naming the "Perry," after Captain Perry, Deputy Surveyor-General, who
has most kindly mapped my route from the rough plans sketched during the
journey. The Burdekin here comes from the westward, and made a large bend
round several mountains, composed of quartz porphyry, with a
sub-crystalline felspathic paste. The latitude was 19 degrees 1 minutes
(Unclear:)18.
April 25.--We travelled almost due west, about nine miles along the
river, our latitude being 19 degrees 1 minutes 3 seconds. Our route lay
through a fine well grassed country; the grass being very dense: at a
distance from the river, I observed box flats, and poplar-gum flats; the
latter are probably swampy during the rainy season. A good sized creek
joined the Burdekin; a range of high hills extended along its left side,
and its right became equally hilly as we approached our camping place.
After establishing our camp, and making the necessary preparations, we
killed one of our little steers, and found it in excellent condition. The
graziers will judge by this simple fact, how well the country is adapted
for pastoral pursuits; particularly when it is remembered that we were
continually on the march, and had frequently to pass over very rocky
ranges, which made our cattle footsore; and that the season was not the
most favourable for the grass, which, although plentiful, was very dry.
The steer gave us 120 lbs. of dried beef.
In this place I observed and calculated three sets of lunar observations;
one gave longitude 144 degrees 4 minutes, and the other longitude 144
degrees 14 minutes. As usual, we greased our harness, although not
without considerable discussion, as to whether it would not be more
advisable to eat the fat than to apply it to the leather; we also
repaired our packs and pack-saddles, and put every thing in travelling
order.
On the 29th April we started from our killing camp, and travelled about
seven miles N. 70 degrees W.; making our latitude 18 degrees 59 minutes.
The ranges now approached the banks of the river, and retarded our
progress very much.
April 30.--In consequence of Charley's statement, that the banks of the
river in advance were so steep and rocky that it would be impossible for
us to pass, I left the river side, and crossed over the ranges, and had a
very heavy stage for my bullocks; which I regretted the more, as Mr.
Calvert and Brown, who returned to our last camp for a sword, had found
the route by the river quite practicable. The ranges were composed of a
Psammite, which was frequently baked, probably by neighbouring out-bursts
of igneous rock. Several familiar forms of plants were discovered; also a
new Eucalyptus, with a glaucous suborbicular subcordate leaf, and the
bark of the rusty gum: a stunted or middle-sized tree, which grew in
great abundance on the ranges. We passed a fine large but dry Casuarina
creek, coming from the westward, with a broad sandy bed. A large tree,
with dark green broad lanceolate stinging leaves, grew on its banks; it
resembled the nettle tree, but belonged to neither of the two species
growing in the bushes of the east coast.
Our last day's travelling had not advanced us more than five miles in a
straight line, and we had not made any northing, our latitude being again
18 degrees 59 minutes; but we had left the mountains behind us, and had
travelled, during the latter part of the stage, over well grassed, openly
timbered flats. The ranges on the left side of the river extended several
miles farther, but gradually sunk into a level country.
[Note 1: The following description of the fossiliferous limestone of the
Burdekin, was communicated to me by the Rev. W. B. Clarke, F.G.S.
This rock consists of a semi-crystalline, greyish-brown marble, very like
some varieties of Wenlock limestone.
The most conspicuous fossil is a coral, which appears to belong to
the family of Cyathophyllidae. The genus is perhaps new; but this the
want of specimens with which to compare it, does not allow me the
means of verifying. It may, however, be classed provisionally as
Cyathophyllum, to which in many respects it bears a great resemblance;
and although it is somewhat contrary to the present rules of
classification to assign a specific name from a person, yet, in
order to do honour to my friend on account of his skill, diligence, and
zeal as a naturalist, as well as a traveller, and as this is the first
fossil coral brought away by the first explorer of the region in which
its habitat is found, I venture to name it C. Leichhardti.
The description may be given as follows:
Cells concavely cylindrical, not dichotomous (thus distinguished from
Caryophyllia), grouped but separate, laterally if at all proliferous.
Corallum beautifully stellular, formed by 30-35 slightly spirally-curving
or regular radiating lamellae, which meet in a central point or overlap
on a latitudinal axial line, and are divided by rectangular or outwardly
convex and upwardly oblique dissepiments, which become, occasionally,
indistinct or obsolete near the centre, thus not assuming the usual
characteristic of Cyathophyllum, but rather one of Strombodes.
Surface longitudinally striated, the cellular structure being hidden
in calcareous spar; the striae formed by the coalescing lamellae,
which, at the extremities, seem to be occasionally denticulated, owing to
the matrix interrupting their passage to the edge. This resembles what
takes place in some Astraeidae.
The interior has more the features of Acervularia than Cyathophyllum;
but there are patches of broken transverse septa in the rock which
exhibit the features of the latter.
Associated with this is a branching coral, a fragment of which, in
a small angle of one of the surfaces of the stone, exhibits the characters
of Favosites. There are also traces of casts of Spirifers, one of which is
near to S. Pisum of the Wenlock rocks. (Silur. Syst. pl. xiii. f. 9).
The description here given is deduced from the natural appearances
under the lens, and not from artificial or regular sections. But
the specimen admits of a partial substitute for this; for the surface
is worn down and roughly polished, as is the case with all the exposed
surfaces of ancient limestones in Australia; the result probably of the
acidulous properties of rain water, or of the atmosphere, which, in a
tropical climate, where violent showers alternate with great drought, is
capable of producing various sensible changes in rocks in a long series
of ages. Many rocks of limestone in New South Wales, even harder than the
Burdekin marble, are actually grooved in short parallel furrows, over
wide surfaces, and along their sides, by some similar agency.]
CHAPTER VIII
BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL--NIGHT WATCH--ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY LIFE, AND
HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY--MOUNT LANG--STREAMS OF LAVA--A HORSE
BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND EATEN--NATIVE TRIBE--MR. ROPER'S
ACCIDENT--WHITSUNDAY--BIG ANT HILL CREEK--DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY
HOURS--FRIENDLY NATIVES--SEPARATION CREEK--THE LYND--PSYCHOLOGICAL
EFFECTS OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS--NATIVE CAMP--SALT EXHAUSTED.
May 1.--We travelled west by north, to latitude 18 degrees 55 minutes 41
seconds, over almost a dead flat, which was only interrupted by a fine
Casuarina creek, with a broad sandy bed, coming from the
south-south-west. The soil was stiff, and the forest in which the Box
tree prevailed, was very open. A species of Acacia, with narrow blunt
phyllodia, about an inch long, with spinous stipules; Hakea lorea, and
the Grevillea mimosoides (R. Br.), with very long linear leaves, were
frequent. Towards the end of the journey, slight ridges, composed of
flint rock, rose on our left; and the country became more undulating. Mr.
Roper saw extensive ranges about fifteen miles distant; shortly before
entering the camp, we passed a singularly broken country, in which the
waters rushing down from a slightly inclined table land, had hollowed out
large broad gullies in a sandy loam and iron ochre, which was full of
quartz pebbles. The heavier masses had resisted the action of the waters,
and remained like little peaks and islands, when the softer materials
around them had been washed away. We met with grass lately burnt, and
some still burning, which indicated the presence of natives. It was
generally very warm during the hours of travelling, between eight and
twelve o'clock, but the bracing air of the nights and mornings
strengthened us for the day's labour; the weather altogether was lovely,
and it was a pleasure to travel along such a fine stream of water.
Easterly and north-easterly breezes still prevailed, though I expected
that the direction of the winds would change as we passed the centre of
York Peninsula.
Our two black companions, who until now had been like
brothers--entertaining each other by the relation of their adventures, to
a late hour of the night; singing, chatting, laughing, and almost crying
together; making common cause against me; Brown even following Charley
into his banishment--quarrelled yesterday, about a mere trifle, so
violently that it will be some time before they become friends again.
When Mr. Calvert and Brown returned yesterday to the camp, they remarked
that they had not seen the waterfall, of which Charley had spoken whilst
at our last camp; upon which Charley insinuated that they had not seen
it, because they had galloped their horses past it. This accusation of
galloping their horses irritated Brown, who was very fond and proud of
his horse; and a serious quarrel of a rather ridiculous character ensued.
Keeping myself entirely neutral, I soon found that I derived the greatest
advantage from their animosity to each other, as each tried to outdo the
other in readiness to serve me. To-day, Charley, who was usually the last
to rise in the morning, roused even me, and brought the horses before our
breakfast was ready. Brown's fondness for spinning a yarn will soon,
however, induce him to put an end to this feud with his companion and
countryman. In the early part of our journey, one or other of our party
kept a regular night-watch, as well to guard us from any night attack of
the natives, as to look after our bullocks; but, latterly, this
prudential measure, or rather its regularity, has been much neglected.
Mr. Roper's watch was handed from one to another in alphabetical rotation
at given intervals, but no one thought of actually watching; it was, in
fact, considered to be a mere matter of form. I did not check this,
because there was nothing apparently to apprehend from the natives, who
always evinced terror in meeting us; and all our communications with them
have been accidental and never sought by them. On that point, therefore,
I was not apprehensive; and, as to the bullocks, they were now accustomed
to feed at large, and we seldom had any difficulty in recovering them in
the morning. I shall here particularise the routine of one of our days,
which will serve as an example of all the rest. I usually rise when I
hear the merry laugh of the laughing-jackass (Dacelo gigantea), which,
from its regularity, has not been unaptly named the settlers' clock; a
loud cooee then roused my companions,--Brown to make tea, Mr. Calvert to
season the stew with salt and marjoram, and myself and the others to
wash, and to prepare our breakfast, which, for the party, consists of two
pounds and a-half of meat, stewed over night; and to each a quart pot of
tea. Mr. Calvert then gives to each his portion, and, by the time this
important duty is performed, Charley generally arrives with the horses,
which are then prepared for their day's duty. After breakfast, Charley
goes with John Murphy to fetch the bullocks, which are generally brought
in a little after seven o'clock a.m. The work of loading follows, but
this requires very little time now, our stock being much reduced; and, at
about a quarter to eight o'clock, we move on, and continue travelling
four hours, and, if possible, select a spot for our camp. The Burdekin,
which has befriended us so much by its direct course and constant stream,
already for more than two degrees of latitude and two of longitude, has
not always furnished us with the most convenient camps for procuring
water. The banks generally formed steep slopes descending into a line of
hollows parallel to the river, and thickly covered with a high stiff
grass; and then another steep bank covered with a thicket of drooping
tea-trees, rose at the water's edge; and, if the descent into the bed of
the river was more easy, the stream frequently was at the opposite side,
and we had to walk several hundred yards over a broad sheet of loose
sand, which filled our mocassins, when going to wash. At present, the
river is narrower, and I have chosen my camp twice on its dry sandy bed,
under the shade of Casuarinas and Melaleucas, the stream being there
comparatively easy of access, and not ten yards off. Many unpleasant
remarks had been made by my companions at my choice of camping places;
but, although I suffered as much inconvenience as they did, I bore it
cheerfully, feeling thankful to Providence for the pure stream of water
with which we were supplied every night. I had naturally a great
antipathy against comfort-hunting and gourmandizing, particularly on an
expedition like ours; on which we started with the full expectation of
suffering much privation, but which an Almighty Protector had not only
allowed us to escape hitherto, but had even supplied us frequently with
an abundance--in proof of which we all got stronger and improved in
health, although the continued riding had rather weakened our legs. This
antipathy I expressed, often perhaps too harshly, which caused
discontent; but, on these occasions, my patience was sorely tried. I may,
however, complete the picture of the day: as soon as the camp is pitched,
and the horses and bullocks unloaded, we have all our alloted duties; to
make the fire falls to my share; Brown's duty is to fetch water for tea;
and Mr. Calvert weighs out a pound and a-half of flour for a fat cake,
which is enjoyed more than any other meal; the large teapot being empty,
Mr. Calvert weighs out two and a-half pounds of dry meat to be stewed for
our late dinner; and, during the afternoon, every one follows his own
pursuits, such as washing and mending clothes, repairing saddles,
pack-saddles, and packs; my occupation is to write my log, and lay down
my route, or make an excursion in the vicinity of the camp to botanize,
etc. or ride out reconnoitring. My companions also write down their
remarks, and wander about gathering seeds, or looking for curious
pebbles. Mr. Gilbert takes his gun to shoot birds. A loud cooee again
unites us towards sunset round our table cloth; and, whilst enjoying our
meals, the subject of the day's journey, the past, the present, and the
future, by turns engage our attention, or furnish matter for conversation
and remark, according to the respective humour of the parties. Many
circumstances have conspired to make me strangely taciturn, and I am now
scarcely pleased even with the chatting humour of my youngest companion,
whose spirits, instead of flagging, have become more buoyant and lively
than ever. I consider it, however, my invariable duty to give every
information I can, whenever my companions inquire or show a desire to
learn, and I am happy to find that they are desirous of making themselves
familiar with the objects of nature by which they are surrounded, and of
understanding their mutual relations. Mr. Roper is of a more silent
disposition; Mr. Calvert likes to speak, and has a good stock of "small
talk," with which he often enlivens our dinners; he is in that respect an
excellent companion, being full of jokes and stories, which, though old
and sometimes quaint, are always pure, and serve the more to exhilarate
the party. Mr. Gilbert has travelled much, and consequently has a rich
store of impressions de voyage: his conversation is generally very
pleasing and instructive, in describing the character of countries he has
seen, and the manners and customs of the people he has known. He is well
informed in Australian Ornithology. As night approaches, we retire to our
beds. The two Blackfellows and myself spread out each our own under the
canopy of heaven, whilst Messrs. Roper, Calvert, Gilbert, Murphy, and
Phillips, have their tents. Mr. Calvert entertains Roper with his
conversation; John amuses Gilbert; Brown tunes up his corroborri songs,
in which Charley, until their late quarrel, generally joined. Brown sings
well, and his melodious plaintive voice lulls me to sleep, when otherwise
I am not disposed. Mr. Phillips is rather singular in his habits; he
erects his tent generally at a distance from the rest, under a shady
tree, or in a green bower of shrubs, where he makes himself as
comfortable as the place will allow, by spreading branches and grass
under his couch, and covering his tent with them, to keep it shady and
cool, and even planting lilies in blossom (Crinum) before his tent, to
enjoy their sight during the short time of our stay. As the night
advances, the Blackfellows' songs die away; the chatting tongue of Murphy
ceases, after having lulled Mr. Gilbert to sleep; and at last even Mr.
Calvert is silent, as Roper's short answers became few and far between.
The neighing of the tethered horse, the distant tinkling of the bell, or
the occasional cry of night birds, alone interrupt the silence of our
camp. The fire, which was bright as long as the corroborri songster kept
it stirred, gradually gets dull, and smoulders slowly under the large pot
in which our meat is simmering; and the bright constellations of heaven
pass unheeded over the heads of the dreaming wanderers of the wilderness,
until the summons of the laughing jackass recalls them to the business of
the coming day.
May 2.--We travelled in a N.W. direction to lat. 18 degrees 50 minutes 11
seconds; at first over the box flats, alternating with an undulating open
country. About three miles before making our camp, we passed several
small plains at the foot of what appeared to be basaltic ridges, and came
to the dry channel of a river, with reeds and occasional water-holes, and
lined with fine flooded-gum trees and Casuarinas, but without the
dropping tea trees and the Moreton Bay ash, the latter of which seemed to
be the prerogative of the Burdekin. At its left side a basaltic ridge
rose, covered with thick scrub, and at its base extended a small plain,
with black soil strewed with quartz pebbles. The river came, as well as I
could judge, from the W.N.W. Mr. Roper and Brown caught a kangaroo, but
they had a dangerous ride after it, and the poor brute, when hard
pressed, showed fight, and endeavoured to lay hold of Mr. Roper.
In one of the creeks I observed pegmatite; pebbles of talc-schiste and of
white quartz covered the bed of the river.
May 3.--We had to travel for a considerable distance in the bed of the
river, for the hills approached close to its banks, and numerous deep
gullies intercepted their slopes. When, however, the ridges receded, we
passed several fine sound flats. The forest was open everywhere, and the
grass was good, though old. After travelling about five miles, we saw a
hill to the north-east, and, when we came almost abreast of it, the river
turned to the eastward, and a wild field of broken basaltic lava rendered
it impossible for us to follow its banks. The black rough masses of rock
were covered with thick scrub, in which I observed numerous bottle trees
with the platanus leaf. Keeping to the westward of the scrub, I followed
a creek which farther on divided in a chain of ponds, into which the
waters of the field of basalt, as well as of the basaltic ridges to the
westward of it, collected. These ridges were perfectly level at their
summits, and were connected with a table land which extended far to the
west. At their foot sienite, quartz rock, and leptinite, were observed.
After turning round the field of lava to the eastward, we entered into a
large flat, with patches of narrow-leaved tea tree, with reedy swamps and
fine flooded-gum trees, and made our camp at a strong running brook,
without trees, but densely surrounded with reeds, ferns, and pothos. This
stream formed the outlet of some fine lagoons, which extended along the
steep slopes of the basaltic table land. I crossed the creek and its flat
to the opposite hills. The flat was one level sheet or floor of basalt,
here and there covered with a very shallow soil, but sometimes bare,
though clothed with a fair supply of grass and with scattered flooded-gum
trees. At the foot of the eastern hills, however, deep holes existed in a
water-course, with black blocks of basalt heaped over each other, on
which the fig tree with its dark green foliage formed a shady bower, most
delightful during the heat of the day. The hills were composed of a
lamellar granite, approaching the stratified appearance of gneiss, but
the leaflets of mica, instead of forming continuous layers, were
scattered. The east side of the narrow watercourse was of primitive rock,
the west side basaltic. Having passed over the hills, I made the river at
their east side. Its banks were open for access as far as the primitive
rock extended, but another field of lava commenced higher up, and
rendered any progress with our cattle impossible.
A native low shrubby Mulberry was found in this scrub, the fruit of which
was good to eat, but of very small size.
From the top of the hills I enjoyed a most beautiful view of the valley
of the river, with its large lagoons covered with Nymphaeas and
Damasoniums. On one of the lagoons, Charley shot a Parra gallinacea, a
bird which Mr. Gilbert had observed only at Port Essington. A well beaten
path of the natives showed that they were numerous in this part of the
country: we saw many of their camping places during the stage; and the
fires of their camps were numerous; we saw a party of them, but they were
too frightened to allow us to approach. Our latitude was 18 degrees 44
minutes 48 seconds. Our course was about N.N.W.
May 4.--We ascended the basaltic ridges, and reaching the table land,
found it perfectly level, openly timbered, well grassed, but occasionally
stony, by which our poor foot-sore bullocks suffered severely. About five
miles north-west by west from our camp, we discovered an extensive valley
with large lagoons and lakes, and a most luxuriant vegetation, bounded by
blue distant ranges, and forming the most picturesque landscape we had
yet met with. A chain of lagoons connected by a reedy brook followed the
outlines of the table land, along the foot of its steep slopes. We
descended by a tolerably gentle slope into the valley, and encamped near
the reedy brook, which must be the same as that on which, lower down, our
last camp was formed. Water, grass, hills, mountains, plains, forest
land; all the elements of a fine pasturing country, were here united.
During one of the last stages, we discovered a leguminous tree, with the
dark fissured bark of the Ironbark, but with large bipinnate leaves, the
leaflets oblong, an inch in length; the pods broad and thin, and two or
three inches long: this tree is common all over the northern part of the
continent, and was found growing abundantly around Victoria, the
principal settlement of Port Essington.
Mr. Roper and Brown, upon an excursion after ducks, which were very
numerous on the lagoons, met with Blackfellows, who were willing to
accost Brown, but could not bear the sudden sight of a white face. In
trying to cross the valley, my course was intercepted every way by deep
reedy and sedgy lagoons, which rendered my progress impossible. I saw,
however, that this valley was also floored with a sheet of lava hollowed
out into numerous deep basins, in which the water collected and formed
the lagoons.
May 5.--I went with Charley to reconnoitre the upper part of the reedy
brook, with a view to find a passage over the table land to the westward;
at the same time I sent Mr. Roper and Brown to trace the river through
the lagoons, and to examine whether there was any connection between
them. I followed the base of the basaltic table land, along which the
brook came down, and, after a two miles' ride on its banks, through oak
trees, low fern trees, and several bush trees, found that it came down a
valley deeply cut into the table land. The floor of the valley was of
basaltic rock, and its steep slopes were covered with boulders of the
same formation. The water ran in two distinct beds through the fissures,
hollows, and caves of the rock. As our horses could not travel over the
sharp edges of the rock without injuring their feet, we ascended the
table land, and rode to the northward about four miles, and then came on
plains, in which we distinguished a meandering band of green verdure,
which proved to be the same brook we had left, or one of its head waters.
We followed it through a series of plains, from one of which a blue
mountain was visible to the north-west. I called it "Mount Lang," after
Dr. Lang, the distinguished historiographer of New South Wales. Smoke was
seen to the westward. At the right side of the brook, a stream of lava
bounded the plains, and was, as usual, covered with dense scrub. Box,
with occasional patches of narrow-leaved tea trees, grew along the
plains. The forest was very open, and principally consisted of
narrow-leaved Ironbark; the grass in the forest and on the plains, was of
the best description. Finer stations for the squatter cannot exist.
May 6.--Following the brook about four miles farther, I came to its
source at a gentle slope of basalt. Plains stretched along both sides of
its course, and even beyond it. Luxuriant reeds, Plothos, and several
deep green trees, crowded round its head. Kangaroos, which abounded
particularly along the scrub, had formed numerous paths through the high
grass to the water's edge. I now directed my course to the W.N.W., but
soon found myself checked by a dyke or wall of basaltic lava, composed of
boulders and tabular blocks heaped over each other in wild confusion, and
covered by scrub; it stretched from N.W. to S.E. I travelled round its
edge to the southward, after having made a vain attempt to cross it. The
outlines of the stream ran out in low heads into the flat table land, and
there we met occasionally with springs and chains of water-holes which
united lower down into a water-course, which, after following alternately
the outline of the scrub, and turning into the stream of lava, became
lost among its loose rocks. The lava was very cellular; the basalt of the
table land solid. The whole appearance of this interesting locality
showed that the stream of lava was of much more recent date than the rock
of the table land, and that the latter was probably formed under water,
whilst the cellular scorified lava was poured out into the open air. The
stream of lava enlarged so much, and descended into so broad a valley,
that I considered it to be the head of the Burdekin. I walked across it,
in order to ascertain the presence of water, but found nothing but deep
dry hollows surrounded with drooping tea trees, and the black basaltic
rocks covered with wild bottle-tree scrub. It joined the valley of
lagoons very much like the valley of the reedy brook, and seemed to unite
with the latter, and to expand all over the large basin. Numerous
headlands protruded from the table land into the valley of lagoons,
between the stream of lava and reedy brook. Many of them were composed of
quartzite and pegmatite [Graphic granite, composed of quartz and
laminated felspar.--ED.], the detritus of which formed sandy slopes very
different from the black and loamy soil of the table land and its plains.
Several isolated hills and short ridges rise out of the basaltic floor of
the valley of lagoons; they are composed of a different rock; and if it
may be allowed me to judge by the colour and by analogy, I should say
that they were pegmatite and quartzite. It would, therefore, appear that
the valley of lagoons is connected with three streams of lava; one
following down the river to the southward, a second coming down the
valley of Reedy Brook from W.N.W., and the third coming from the N.W. The
course of the Burdekin has no connection with this valley, but runs
apparently along its eastern side, and divides the primitive rocks from
the streams of lava; for I had not observed any lava on its left bank.
In returning to our camp, we saw a great number of women and children,
who ran away upon seeing us, screaming loudly, which attracted some young
men to the spot, who were much bolder and approached us. I dismounted and
walked up within five yards of them, when I stopped short from a mutual
disinclination for too close quarters, as they were armed with spears and
waddies. They made signs for me to take off my hat, and to give them
something; but, having nothing with me, I made a sign that I would make
them a present upon returning to the camp. They appeared to be in no way
unfriendly, and directed us how to avoid the water. When I reached the
camp, I found that the Blackfellows had been there already, and had been
rather urgent to enter it, probably in consequence of the small number of
my companions then present, who, however, managed to keep them in good
humour by replying to their inquiries respecting our nature and
intentions; among which one of the most singular was, whether the
bullocks were not our gins. This occurred last night; in the morning they
returned again in great numbers, and climbed the trees on the other side
of the brook to observe what was doing within the camp. It now became
necessary to show them our superiority; which we attempted to do by
shooting at a kite, numbers of which were perched on the neighbouring
trees; our shots, however, unfortunately missed, and the natives answered
the discharge of the gun with a shout of laughter. At this time, however,
Mr. Roper, Charley, and myself returned from our excursion, when they
became quiet. I threw a tin canister over to them, and they returned me a
shower of roasted Nymphaea fruit. It seems that the seed-vessels of
Nymphaea and its rhizoma form the principal food of the natives; the
seeds contain much starch and oil, and are extremely nourishing. I then
gave them some pieces of dried meat, intimating by signs that it must be
grilled; soon afterwards they retired. Mr. Roper came in with sad
tidings; in riding up the steep bank of the river, his horse, unable to
get a footing among the loose rocks, had fallen back and broken its
thigh. I immediately resolved upon going to the place where the accident
had happened, and proposed to my companions, that we should try to make
the best of the meat, as the animal was young and healthy, and the supply
would greatly assist in saving our bullocks to the end of our long
journey; and they declared themselves willing at all events to give a
fair trial to the horse-flesh. Our bullocks were foot-sore and required
rest. We, therefore, shot the horse, skinned and quartered it the same
night; and ate its liver and kidneys, which were quite as good as those
of a bullock.
May 7.--We cut the meat in slices, and dried it; and though there was
some prejudice against it, it would have been very difficult to have
detected any difference between it and beef; particularly if the animals
had been in the same condition.
May 8.--As I found it necessary to follow the right bank of the river, in
order to get out of this intricate country, I sent Mr. Gilbert and
Charley to trace the river through the valley of lagoons. Having
accomplished their object, they informed me that the river had no
connexion with the lagoons of the large valley, but that several very
large ones were even on its left bank; and that all tree vegetation
disappeared from its banks where it passed through a part of the valley
of lagoons.
May 9.--As my bullocks were still extremely foot-sore, it was necessary
that we should travel only by short stages until they recovered;
consequently, the day's journey did not exceed five miles in a N.N.E.
direction; and, with the exception of some ridges, upon excellent
travelling ground, along the left bank of the river. The latter formed,
as I have already stated, the line of separation, first, between basalt
and granite, and afterwards between basalt and a quartzose rock (probably
baked Psammite). The country was beautifully open and well grassed; the
river forming a simple channel, without trees, well filled with water and
flowing between chains of lakes and lagoons on either side; one of which
was covered with flocks of ducks and pelicans, resembling islands of
white lilies.
Beyond the almost treeless flats round the lagoons, Casuarinas and
Callistemon re-appeared along the river.
We saw some Blackfellows in the distance, who immediately withdrew as we
approached them; but the tribe, which we had met at Reedy Brook, came to
the other side of the river, and had much to say; we did not, however,
take any notice of them, until we had unloaded our bullocks and finished
our luncheon, when I went down to them, and gave them a horn of one of
our slaughtered bullocks. Roper had saved the mane of his horse, and
threw it over to them, but it seemed to frighten them very much. We
inquired by signs as to the course of the river, and we understood by
their answers, that it came a long way from the northward. At Reedy Brook
the natives had given my companions to understand that the brook had its
source not very far off to the W.N.W., by pointing at their heads, then
at the brook, and then in the direction mentioned. I was therefore
inclined to trust to their information about the river's source. They
threw some yam-roots over to us, the plant of which we were not able to
ascertain: and after that they retired.
May 10.--This morning they came again, and, when our bullocks were loaded
and we were about to start, I went down to them and took a sort of leave.
We had scarcely proceeded half a mile, when we missed the tinkling of our
bell, and found that Charley had forgotten to put it on the horse's neck,
and had left it behind. Mr. Calvert and Brown, therefore, returned to
look for it, and, upon reaching the place where the camp had been made,
saw the natives examining and beating every part of it; at the approach
of the horsemen, however, they retired to the other side of the river;
but when they turned their horses' heads, after having found the bell,
the natives followed them, and threw three spears after them--whether it
was out of mere wantonness, or with hostile intentions, I do not know,
though I was inclined to believe the first. It was, nevertheless, a
warning to us not to repose too much confidence in them. Mr. Roper met
to-day with a severe accident, which nearly cost him his life. It was a
very common practice to make our horses stop by catching them by the
tails; as he tried to do this with his horse, which was not yet
accustomed to him, the animal struck out at him, and kicked him with both
feet on the chest. Roper happily recovered after some faintness, but
complained for several days afterwards of external pain. We travelled
this day about four miles and a half N.N.E. along the river side,
following a well-beaten path of the natives.
The river was again confined in its own valley, with quartzose rocks
(Psammite) on one side, and the falls of the basaltic table land on the
other. Basalt was, however, observed here about on several spots at the
left bank, and quartz porphyry composed the ridges near our last
encampment. The river divided here into a great number of anabranches,
but all confined in the same valley, and united by intermediate channels.
The bed of it had again become sandy, with small pebbles of pegmatite and
quartz. Casuarinas were plentiful on its banks; the poplar-gum, and the
Moreton Bay ash on the adjacent flats; Tristania, with pubescent leaves
round some lagoons; narrow-leaved Ironbark, and poplar-gum grew on the
hills; and rich grass every where.
The night was clear, but the morning foggy, and the dew very heavy. The
wind was from the northward, and, as usual, very strong after sunset.
May 11.--We travelled four miles to the E.N.E. The anabranches of the
river continued; the ranges of quartz porphyry approached several times
close to the river. Oak trees and drooping Melaleucas grew abundantly in
its bed, and along the banks. Higher up we crossed fine flats with
lagoons and lakes covered as usual with Nymphaeas. We encamped in
latitude 18 degrees 32 minutes 37 seconds, after passing a Casuarina
creek, with high banks and a sandy bed. This creek separated the table
land from a broken low range of hills, composed of a coarse-grained
sandstone. The banks of the river here seemed to have been swept away; a
broad sheet of sand, covered with fine drooping tea trees, was slightly
furrowed by a narrow stream of water, which seemed for the greater part
filtering through the sands; chains of water-holes at its left side,
fringed with Casuarinas, appeared to be anabranches of the river, and to
be connected with the main stream during the rainy season.
I have to mention that a species of Sciadophyllum, nearly allied to Sc.
lucidum, (Don. iii. p. 390,) was found in the lava scrub of the valley of
lagoons: it was a small tree with large digitate leaves, each of them
composed of from eleven to thirteen oblong acuminate, glabrous leaflets,
which were about five inches long; and it attracted the attention of my
companions as much by its ornamental foliage as its numerous terminal
racemes of bright scarlet coloured flowers.
After having celebrated Whit-Sunday with a double allowance of fat cake
and sweetened tea, I started with Charley to reconnoitre the country to
the westward. Our friendly stream not only turned to the north, but
afterwards to north-east and east-north-east; and though I had not
succeeded in leaving it from Reedy Brook--not having been able to cross
the lava streams of the basaltic table land--I now concluded, from the
nature of the pebbles, and sands of the creek which we had crossed last,
that the basalts and lavas had ceased, and that a passage to the westward
would be practicable.
I followed the Casuarina Creek up to its head, and called it "Big
Ant-hill Creek," in consequence of numerous gigantic strangely buttressed
structures of the white ant, which I had never seen of such a form, and
of so large a size.
The general course of the creek was north-north-west: for the first ten
miles it was without water, but its middle and upper course was well
provided with fine reedy holes, the constant supply of water in which was
indicated by Nymphaeas, and other aquatic plants. At its left side near
the junction I observed, as before mentioned, a coarse grained sandstone,
and, at less than a mile higher up, I found flint rock; and, wherever I
examined afterwards, the rocks proved to be coarse grained granite and
pegmatite, the decomposition of which formed a sandy soil on the slopes,
and clayey flats along the creek. The latter, however, were very limited.
The ant-hills were intimately connected with the rock, as the ants
derived their materials for building from the minute particles of clay
among the sand. The primitive rock was cut with deep gullies and ravines,
and several tributary creeks joined Big Ant-hill Creek from the primitive
side. The basaltic table land, which extended all along the right side of
the creek, formed steep slopes into its valley, and were generally topped
with loose basaltic boulders. The table land was highest near the creek,
and its drainage was not towards the creek, but to the south-west, into
the valley of lagoons. White quartz rock was observed in a few places on
the right side of the creek, where the primitive rock seemed to encroach
into the territory of the basalt; and felspathic porphyry formed probably
a dyke in the pegmatite, but was most evidently broken by the basalt.
Where the upper part of the creek formed a shallow watercourse, and
turned altogether into the primitive formation, a plain came down from
the west-north-west with a shallow watercourse, which continued the
separation of the two formations; the right side of the plain being
basaltic, the soil of the Box and Ironbark forest loamy, with sharp
pieces of the rock; the left side being sandy, and covered with a very
pleasing poplar gum forest, in which the grotesque ant-hills were
exceedingly numerous. About two miles higher up the plain, separated into
several distinct plains, the largest of which was from twelve to fifteen
miles long, and from two to three miles broad, and came from Mount Lang;
another plain came from an isolated razorback hill, and a third continued
on the line of contact of the basaltic and primitive rocks. The upper
parts of the small creeks, which come down in these plains, were full of
water, and had their source generally between heaps of bare basaltic
rocks, surrounded by rich grass, and a scanty scrub of Pittosporum, of
the native mulberry, of the fig-tree, and of several vines, with
Polypodiums, Osmundas, and Caladiums growing between them.
Several other hills and mountains rose on the table land, generally with
open plains at their base. The greater part, however, was open forest,
principally of narrow-leaved Ironbark and Box, and occasionally
poplar-gum.
One locality was particularly striking: a great number of rocky basins
within the basalt, and surrounded by its black blocks, formed evidently
so many lagoons during the wet season, as sedges and Polygonums--always
inhabitants of constantly moist places--grew abundantly in most of them.
These basins were situated between low basaltic rises, along which narrow
flats frequently extended. The flooded gum-trees were fine and numerous,
and made me frequently believe that I was approaching a creek. I rode,
however, over eighteen miles of country to the westward without observing
the slightest watercourse. Long flats bounded by slight undulations
extended some to the northward, and others to the westward; but their
inclination was imperceptible. I passed some hills and plains; and
ascending one of the hills, I obtained a fine view. To the west by south
I saw other isolated mountains: the country to the westward was not
broken by any elevation; a fine long range was visible to the north-west.
It was now 3 o'clock P.M., and my Blackfellows had left me, as usual; my
horse was foot-sore, and neither the poor animal nor myself had tasted
water for the last thirty-six hours. Under these circumstances, though I
ardently desired to push on to the north-west ranges, I thought it
prudent to return; and after a short rest to my horse, during which I
chewed some dry pieces of beef, I rode on my way back until 9 o'clock,
and then encamped. The coldness of the night reminded me too strongly of
the pleasures of the fire and the heavy dew which had fallen, though a
comfort to my horse, rendered it difficult to light one; by dint of
patience, however, I succeeded, and then stretched myself, hungry and
thirsty as I was, by the side of a large Ironbark log; whilst my horse,
which I had hobbled and tethered, drooped his head over me, little
inclined either to feed or move. I started early in the morning of the
14th, and passed between Mount Lang and Razorback Hill. At the foot of
the latter I met a small creek, which I followed through a long series of
plains until I came on my old track, not very far from Big Ant-hill
Creek. At the sight of water, which we had been without full fifty hours,
my horse and I rushed simultaneously into it, and we drank, and drank,
and drank again, before I could induce myself to light a fire and make
some tea, which was always found to be much more wholesome, and to allay
thirst sooner than the water alone.
Near the large water-hole at which I halted, was an old camping place of
the natives, and the remnants of many a hut lay scattered round two large
flooded gum trees. The smoke of the natives fires was seen in every
direction. This part of the country is doubtless well supplied with
water-holes: but as they are unconnected with a watercourse, the
traveller, unless by accident, has little chance of finding them.
In returning along Ant-hill Creek, I passed a few native men sitting
before their gunyas; they were not a hundred yards from me, yet they
remained silent and motionless, like the black stumps of the trees around
them, until the strange apparition passed by. At sunset, just as I was
taking the saddle from my horse, I heard a cooee, and not considering it
prudent to encamp in the vicinity of the natives, I began to tighten up
the girths again; but, at the same time, answered the cooee, and soon
after I saw Master Charley and his wearied horse descending from the
opposite range. He had not had anything to eat since the morning of the
preceding day, and was therefore exceedingly pleased to meet me. He had
not been able to follow me, in consequence of the foot-soreness of his
horse, but he had succeeded in finding a small spring at the foot of
Mount Lang, near which the natives had often and recently encamped.
May 15.--We returned to our camp. The natives [These natives are probably
the same as, or are connected with, the tribe that frequent Rockingham
Bay, who have always been noticed for their friendly bearing in
communications with ships visiting that place. Rockingham Bay is situated
due east from the position of Dr. Leichhardt's party.--Note by Capt.
King.] had visited my companions, and behaved very amicably towards them,
making them not only presents of spears and wommalas, but supplying them
with seed-vessels of Nymphaea, and its mealy roasted stems and tubers,
which they were in the habit of pounding into a substance much resembling
mashed potatoes. They took leave of my companions to go to the sea-coast,
pointing to the east and east by south, whither they were going to fetch
shells, particularly the nautilus, of which they make various ornaments.
May 16 and 17.--We moved our camp about twenty miles N.N.W. to latitude
18 degrees 16 minutes 37 seconds, to one of the head brooks of Big
Ant-hill Creek. We travelled the whole distance over the basaltic
table-laud without any impediment. The natives approached our camp, but
retired without any communication.
I had not found any westerly waters on my ride of the 13th, but had seen
a range to the north-west, and that was the goal of a new exploration. As
we had been fortunate enough to find water at the contact of the
primitive and basaltic formation, I wished to follow the same line of
contact as long as it would not carry us much out of our course. We
crossed, in a northerly direction, several granitic ranges which ran out
into the table land, and were separated from each other by very large
swamps, at the time mostly dry, and covered with a short withered swamp
grass, but bearing the marks of frequent inundations. The bed of these
swamps was perfectly level, and formed by an uninterrupted sheet of
basalt. Chains of water-holes between the ranges, which I hoped would
lead me to creeks, were lost in the level of these swamps; indeed, these
granitic ranges were remarkably destitute of watercourses. The coarse
elements of the decomposed rock, principally pegmatite, had formed
uniform slopes, in which even heavy showers of rain were readily
absorbed; but rounded blocks of rock, sometimes curiously piled,
protruded from the granitic sands. Pandanus spiralis fringed the
scattered water-holes; and Grevillea chrysodendron, (R. Br.) formed a
wreath, of pale silver-colour, round the swamps, but grew on sandy soil.
White cranes, the ibis, geese, native companions, and plovers, were very
numerous; and the large ant-hills scattered through the forest at the
foot of the hills, looked like so many wigwams.
From one of the ranges I had another view of the north-west range, and we
started for it, leaving the primitive country behind us. A cold,
southerly wind set in on the morning of the 18th, which made Brown and
myself shiver, and I most gladly availed myself of a flannel shirt,
whilst Brown covered himself with his blanket. We rode about five hours
over an undulating forest land, interrupted by one or two plains, and for
the greater part exceedingly stony. We came at last to fresh burnt grass,
and observed recent marks of the stone tomahawk of the natives; and,
having passed a stony slope, with irregular low stony ridges, we saw an
oak-tree creek before us, on the opposite side of which rose the granitic
range for which we had directed our course. This creek also ran on the
line of contact of primitive and basaltic rocks; the primitive side was
cut by gullies and ravines, whilst the basalt formed a steep
uninterrupted slope, though covered with boulders which had been carried
down even into the sandy bed of the creek, where they were intermingled
with those of granite and pegmatite. I called this creek "Separation
Creek," in allusion to its geological relations: at the point where we
met it, it turned to the north and north-west, which made me believe that
it was a westerly water; but in this I was mistaken.
We had some slight showers of drizzling rain during the afternoon. The
wind veered towards evening to the northward, and the night was clear.
We saw several kangaroos, and their tracks to the water showed that they
were numerous. One of them, which we saw in the creek, was of a light
grey colour, with rich fur and a white tail.
May 19.--We returned to the camp. A cold easterly wind continued during
the day; low rainy clouds in the morning formed into heavy cumuli during
the afternoon.
My geological observations lead me to the conclusion, that an immense
valley between granitic ranges has here been filled by a more modern
basaltic eruption, which (supposing that Mount Lang is basaltic in the
centre of elevation) rose in peaks and isolated hills, but formed in
general a level table land. The basalt has been again broken by still
more recent fissures, through which streams of lava have risen and
expanded over the neighbouring rock.
May 20.--We moved our camp about eighteen miles N.N.W., to Separation
Creek, the latitude of which was 18 degrees 2 minutes 22 seconds.
John Murphy found Grevillea chrysodendron in blossom, the rich orange
colour of which excited general admiration. The stringy-bark tree, and
Tristania, were growing on the sandy soil, and the latter near
watercourses. Several native bustards (Otis Novae Hollandiae, GOULD.)
were shot, and I found their stomachs full of the seeds of Grewia, which
abounded in the open patches of forest ground. In crossing a plain we
observed, under the shade of a patch of narrow-leaved tea trees, four
bowers of the bowerbird, close together, as if one habitation was not
sufficient for the wanton bird to sport in; and on the dry swamps I
mentioned above, small companies of native companions were walking around
us at some distance, but rose with their sonorous cu-r-r-r-ring cry,
whenever Brown tried to approach them. [The natives of Argyle call the
cry of the native companion, Ku-ru-duc Ku-ru-duc; the natives of
Port Essington call the bird Ororr.--NOTE BY CAPT. KING]
May 21.--I went with Brown to reconnoitre the course of the creek, and to
ascertain whether it flowed to the westward. We soon found, however, that
it turned to the north and north-east, and that it was still an eastern
water. As far as I followed it down, it formed the separation between the
primitive rocks and the basalt, but received several creeks from the
westward. In riding along we heard the cooees of natives, and passed
several large camping places near the large water-holes of the creek. A
Blackfellow emerged suddenly from the creek, holding a Casuarina branch
in his hand, and pointing to the westward. We made a sign that we were
going down the creek, and that we had no intention of hurting him; the
poor fellow, however, was so frightened that he groaned and crouched down
in the grass. Wishing not to increase his alarm, we rode on. I followed
up one of the largest tributary creeks coming from the westward towards
its head; it was lined with Casuarinas and flooded-gum trees, like
Separation Creek, and came from an entirely granitic country, ridges and
ranges, with some high hills, bounding its valley on both sides; it soon
divided, however, into branches, and as one turned too much to the north
and the other to the south, I kept between them to the westward, and
passed over a hilly, broken, granitic country. Large blocks of granite
crested the summits of the hills, and their slopes were covered with
Acacia thickets, and arborescent Hakeas and Grevilleas. A dwarf Acacia,
with rhomboid downy phyllodia, an inch long, grew between the rocks. The
natives were busy on the hills, cutting out opossums and honey. We heard
their calls and the cries of their children. As we descended into another
valley, the whole slope was on fire; we passed through it, however, with
little difficulty. We crossed ridges after ridges, passed from one little
creek and watercourse to another, all of which turned to the northward.
At last, heartily tired, and almost despairing of attaining the object of
our search, viz., a western water, we came into a valley which went down
to the south-west; and, following it down, found that it joined a larger
one which went to the westward. A broad creek, with the drooping tea tree
and a sandy bed, gave us the promise of soon finding water; and,
following the tracks of numerous kangaroos and native dogs, we came to a
small pool. After passing over very rocky granitic hills, we came into a
more open country; the banks of the creek became reedy, and water was
more abundant, and at last a fine pool, surrounded by a rich belt of
reeds, was before us. Brown was fortunate enough to shoot two ducks; and,
as the sun was setting behind a neighbouring hill, we made our camp for
the night.
May 22.--We returned to our companions, and by taking a W.N.W. course, we
avoided all the ranges and gullies that we had crossed yesterday. At the
westerly creek I found a rose-coloured Sterculia, with large campanulate
blossoms and tomentose seed-vessels: the tree had lost all its foliage. I
had met with this species on the rocky ranges of Moreton Bay (at Mount
Brisbane), but there it was a low shrub, whereas in this place, and all
round the gulf of Carpentaria, it formed a middle sized tree with
spreading branches. A new Hakea, with long thin terete leaves (different
from H. lorea) and Grevillea chrysodendron, grew along the creek.
Grevillea ceratophylla (R. Br.) and another Grevillea, with a compound
terminal thyrsus, and long lanceolate falcate leaves, grew on the slopes,
in company with a Xylomelum, with smooth and smaller seed-vessels than
those of X. pyriforme. The rocky ridges were occupied by the
stringy-bark, fine Cypress-pine trees, the stunted silver-leaved
Ironbark, a Eucalyptus, with very scanty foliage, orange-coloured
blossoms, seed-vessels longitudinally ribbed, and as large as the egg of
a fowl; its butt was covered with a lamellar bark, but the upper part and
the branches were white and smooth; also by another Eucalyptus, with a
scaly butt like the Moreton Bay ash, but with smooth upper trunk and
cordate ovate leaves, which was also new to me; we called it the
Apple-gum. We frequently met with the grass tree (Xanthorrhaea.)
May 23.--We moved our camp to the westerly creek I had found the day
before, which with several others formed the heads of a river, flowing to
the N.W. I called this river the "Lynd," after R. Lynd, Esq., a gentleman
to whom I am under the greatest obligation, for his unmeasured liberality
and kindness enabled me to devote my time exclusively to the pursuits of
science and exploration.
The nights had been as usual very cold, and the dew very heavy. The
prevailing breeze was from the east, veering towards evening to the
north-east; during the morning a cold south-east wind. The rock was
primitive, granite and pegmatite in several varities, with a few
exceptions of anagenitic formation. Near the place of our first
encampment on the Lynd, in lat. 17 degrees 58 minutes, I observed a
sienite, to which the distribution of the hornblende in layers had given
the stratified appearance of gneiss. Another rock was composed of felspar
and large leaflets of white mica, or of quartz and white mica. The veins
which traversed these rocks were all of quartz, which, within the
pegmatite, enlarged into big masses and hills, particularly where
basaltic rock was near. Mr. Gilbert and Charley went down the creek to
find water and a practicable road, in case the country should prove
mountainous and rocky. I had a view from a small peak near our camp; the
country was full of ridges, but openly timbered, and I saw a low range to
the northward, trending from east to west.
May 24.--It was the Queen's birth-day, and we celebrated it with what--as
our only remaining luxury--we were accustomed to call a fat cake, made of
four pounds of flour and some suet, which we had saved for the express
purpose, and with a pot of sugared tea. We had for several months been
without sugar, with the exception of about ten pounds, which was reserved
for cases of illness and for festivals. So necessary does it appear to
human nature to interrupt the monotony of life by marked days, on which
we indulge in recollections of the past, or in meditations on the future,
that we all enjoyed those days as much, and even more, than when
surrounded with all the blessings of civilized society; although I am
free to admit, that fat-cake and sugared tea in prospectu might induce us
to watch with more eagerness for the approach of these days of feasting.
There were, besides, several other facts interesting to the psychologist,
which exhibited the influence of our solitary life, and the unity of our
purpose, on our minds. During the early part of our journey, I had been
carried back in my dreams to scenes of recent date, and into the society
of men with whom I had lived shortly before starting on my expedition. As
I proceeded on my journey, events of earlier date returned into my mind,
with all the fantastic associations of a dream; and scenes of England,
France, and Italy passed successively. Then came the recollections of my
University life, of my parents and the members of my family; and, at
last, the days of boyhood and of school--at one time as a boy afraid of
the look of the master, and now with the independent feelings of the man,
communicating to, and discussing with him the progress of my journey, the
courses of the rivers I had found, and the possible advantages of my
discoveries. At the latter part of the journey, I had, as it were,
retraced the whole course of my life, and I was now, in my dreams, almost
invariably in Sydney, canvassing for support, and imagining that,
although I had left my camp, yet that I should return with new resources
to carry us through the remainder of our journey. It was very remarkable,
that all my companions were almost invariably anticipating the end of our
journey, dreaming that they reached the sea-coast, and met with ships, or
that they were in Port Essington and enjoying the pleasures of civilized
life; whilst I, on awaking, found my party and my interests on the place
where I had left them in my dreams. During the leisure moments of the
day, or at the commencement of night, when seated at my fire, all my
thoughts seemed riveted to the progress and success of my journey, and to
the new objects we had met with during the day. I had then to compel
myself to think of absent friends and past times, and the thought that
they supposed me dead or unsuccessful in my enterprize, brought me back
immediately to my favourite object. Much, indeed the greater portion, of
my journey had been occupied in long reconnoitring rides; and he who is
thus occupied is in a continued state of excitement, now buoyant with
hope, as he urges on his horse towards some distant range or blue
mountain, or as he follows the favourable bend of a river; now all
despairing and miserable, as he approaches the foot of the range without
finding water from which he could start again with renewed strength, or
as the river turns in an unfavourable direction, and slips out of his
course. Evening approaches; the sun has sunk below the horizon for some
time, but still he strains his eye through the gloom for the dark verdure
of a creek, or strives to follow the arrow-like flight of a pigeon, the
flapping of whose wings has filled him with a sudden hope, from which he
relapses again into a still greater sadness; with a sickened heart he
drops his head to a broken and interrupted rest, whilst his horse is
standing hobbled at his side, unwilling from excessive thirst to feed on
the dry grass. How often have I found myself in these different states of
the brightest hope and the deepest misery, riding along, thirsty, almost
lifeless and ready to drop from my saddle with fatigue; the poor horse
tired like his rider, footsore, stumbling over every stone, running
heedlessly against the trees, and wounding my knees! But suddenly, the
note of Grallina Australis, the call of cockatoos, or the croaking of
frogs, is heard, and hopes are bright again; water is certainly at hand;
the spur is applied to the flank of the tired beast, which already
partakes in his rider's anticipations, and quickens his pace--and a
lagoon, a creek, or a river, is before him. The horse is soon unsaddled,
hobbled, and well washed; a fire is made, the teapot is put to the fire,
the meat is dressed, the enjoyment of the poor reconnoiterer is perfect,
and a prayer of thankfulness to the Almighty God who protects the
wanderer on his journey, bursts from his grateful lips.
May 25.--We travelled about eight miles down the Lynd. The country was
very mountainous; granitic and pegmatite ranges bounded the valley on
both sides.
May 26.--We continued our journey over the most mountainous and rocky
country we had ever passed. The ranges formed the banks of the river
itself, and even entered its bed, which gradually enlarged and was
frequently formed by several channels fringed with large drooping tea
trees. At the end of the stage, basalt was found to have broken through
the granite.
May 27.--The river turned more to the northward, and, joined by many
gullies, wound its way between wild and rocky, though low ranges. At a
place where it left a range of rugged little peaks, basalt re-appeared at
its banks, and extended for some distance, now filling flats with its
rough and cellular blocks and pebbles, and again forming small hillocks
of black bare rock. As soon, however, as the river had fairly left the
basaltic formation, fine large flats of a light sandy soil succeeded on
both sides; on which Pandanus spiralis grew in great abundance, and to a
larger size than we had seen before. The bed of the river became very
broad, and was covered with sands, shingle, and pebbles of the rocks of
its upper course. I passed through a broad rocky gap of a range tending
from east to west, and, at about two miles beyond and to the north-west
of it, we encamped, in lat. 17 degrees 54 minutes 40 seconds.
In passing this gap, on a previous reconnoitring ride with Brown, I met
with several natives with their wives and children, encamped at the north
entrance of it. When they saw us, the men poised their spears, and shook
their waddis to frighten us, but when, notwithstanding their menaces, we
approached them, they left all their goods, and with their weapons only
hurried up the rocks with wonderful agility. Three koolimans (vessels of
stringy bark) were full of honey water, from one of which I took a hearty
draught, and left a brass button for payment. Dillis, fish spears, a
roasted bandicoot, a species of potatoe, wax, a bundle of tea-tree bark
with dry shavings; several flints fastened with human hair to the ends of
sticks, and which are used as knives to cut their skin and food; a
spindle to make strings of opossum wool; and several other small
utensils, were in their camp. One of my Blackfellows found a fine
rock-crystal [Note at end of para.] in one of their bags, when we passed
the place next day with our bullocks. The poor people had evidently not
yet ventured to return. The natives we had formerly met, had generally
watched our movements from a distance, and had returned to their camp as
soon as we had fairly left it; but these seemed too much frightened; and
I should not be surprised to find that the mountainous nature of their
country had given them a greater share of superstition.
[Note: This shows how far the custom extends throughout the continent, of
considering the rock-crystal as sacred; whether it be that it has been
transmitted from tribe to tribe, or that the native was everywhere
inclined to pick up a shining stone, and to consider it endowed with
peculiar virtues. From the absence of brilliant ores, or precious stones,
in the bags and dillis of the natives, I concluded, that neither precious
stones nor brilliant metallic substances existed in the country where
they lived. Those with whom we came in contact, generally admired our
gold and silver chains and watches very much, but had nothing to show in
return except broken shells from the sea-coast]
Among the new and interesting scrubs and trees which we met with at
almost every step, I shall only mention a small Grevillea, from one to
two feet in height, with pubescent pinnatifid leaves, and a simple or
compound thyrsus of scarlet flowers; Cochlospermum gossypium, the native
cotton tree of Port Essington, whose bright showy yellow blossoms and
large capsules full of silky cotton, attracted our attention; its leaves
are deciduous, and the trees were entirely leafless; a fine species of
Calytrix on the rocks, and two of Loranthus on the drooping tea tree, the
drooping foliage of which one of them imitated, whilst the other belonged
to the group I mentioned as found at the Suttor, with its flowers
inserted on a leafy bract.
Exocarpus latifolius is so different from E. cupressiformis, in its
foliage and aspect, that I did not suspect their near relation, until I
found blossom and fruit: the ripe kernel as well as its yellow succulent
leaf-stalk have a very agreeable taste; a leguminous shrub, about five or
six feet high, with purple blossoms gathered into terminal oblong heads;
this would be an ornament to our gardens. Along the river we discovered a
large tree, about forty or fifty feet in height, with rather singularly
disposed horizontal branches and rich dark green foliage; its leaves were
oblong acute, and frequently a foot long; its flowers formed dense heads,
which grew into a fleshy body marked with the arcoles of every flower. It
is either Sarcocephalus or Zuccarinia, or nearly allied to them. The tree
has never been seen on easterly waters, but it was the invariable
companion of all the larger freshwater rivers round the gulf. A fine
species of Gomphrena was found in the sandy bed of the river. A species
of Terminalia, a fine shady tree, with spreading branches and broad
elliptical leaves, grew along the sandy creeks; and another smaller one
with Samara fruit preferred the rocky slopes. Both of these, and a third
species growing on the west side of the gulph, which I shall have to
mention hereafter, supplied us with fine eatable gum, and a fourth
species, with smooth leaves, had an eatable fruit of a purple colour.
The view I obtained from one of the hills near our yesterday's camp was
very characteristic. The country was broken by low ranges of various
extent, formed by exceedingly rocky hills and peaks, which lifted their
rugged crests above the open forest that covered their slopes. Heaps of
rocks with clusters of trees, particularly the smooth-leaved fig tree,
the rose-coloured Sterculia, Exocarpus latifolius, were scattered over
the slopes, or grew on the summits, to which they gave the resemblance of
the lifted crest of an irritated cockatoo, particularly when huge
fantastic blocks were striking out between the vegetation. As we
travelled along, ranges of hills of this character appeared one after
another; to which wallums and wallabies fled for security as we scared
them from the river's side; the rose-breasted cockatoo (Cocatua Eos,
GOULD.) visited the patches of fresh burnt grass, in large flocks;
bustards were numerous on the small flats between basaltic hillocks,
where they fed on the ripe fruit of Grewia.
On the evening of the 27th May, we killed one of our bullocks, which had
suffered more than any of the others by the journey, in consequence of
his having carried our ammunition, which had decreased comparatively
little, and the great weight of which had raised large lumps on his ribs,
which had formed into ulcers. We were very disagreeably disappointed in
not finding sufficient fat to fry the liver, which was our favourite
dish; even the fat of the marrow had disappeared and had left a watery
tissue, which, when grilled for some time, turned into a yellow
substance, having the taste of the fried yolk of an egg. We dried our
meat on the 28th, 29th, and 30th. I took a set of lunar sights, and
calculated my longitude 143 degrees 30 minutes.
May 31.--We had scarcely left, our camp, when swarms of crows and kites
(Milvus isiurus) took possession of it, after having given us a fair
fight during the previous days, whilst we were drying the meat. Their
boldness was indeed remarkable, and if the natives had as much, we should
soon have had to quit our camp. Proceeding, we travelled over a broken
and very stony country, with a stiff soil, but mixed with so much sand
that even the Severn tree grew well. There was another small tree, the
branches of which were thickly covered with bright green leaves; it had
round inferior fruit, about half an inch in diameter, which was full of
seeds: when ripe, it was slightly pulpy and acidulous, and reminded me of
the taste of the coarse German rye bread. In consequence of this
resemblance, we called this little tree the Bread tree of the Lynd. I ate
handfulls of this fruit without the slightest inconvenience. A species of
Pittosporum, and several Acacias, Pandanus, and the leguminous Ironbark,
were scattered through an open forest of Ironbark and lanceolate box. I
observed here a very ornamental little tree, with drooping branches and
linear lanceolate drooping leaves three inches long; it very much
resembled a species of Capparis that I had seen at the Isaacs. Its
blossoms are very small, and the calyx and corolla have each five
divisions; the stamens are opposite the petals; it bore a fruit like a
small apple, with a hard outside, but pulpy and many seeded within, like
Capparis; the calyx was attached to the base of the fruit.
The rock was still granitic, with small outbreaks of basalt; the leaflets
of white mica were visible everywhere in the soil and in the large
ant-hills, whose building materials were derived from the decomposed
felspar. The bed of the river was frequently rocky, and very broad, with
low banks and no water. The highest flood-marks we observed were from six
to eight feet above the level of the bed; these marks were on the trunks
of Casuarinas, Melaleucas, and flooded-gum, which grew along the channel.
The country in general had a winterly appearance; and the grass round the
camp was dry, but I observed the fine grass of the Isaacs, and many
varieties which grow on the Suttor and Burdekin, which will yield an
excellent feed in the proper season; and, even at the present, neither
our bullocks nor horses were starving.
The part of the country in which we were, possesses great interest in a
meteorological point of view. In the centre of the York Peninsula,
between the east coast and the gulf, and on the slopes to the latter, as
might be expected, the northerly and easterly winds which set in so
regularly after sunset, as well along the Burdekin as on the basaltic
table land, failed, and were succeeded here by slight westerly and
easterly breezes, without any great and decided movement in the
atmosphere; and westerly winds, which had formerly been of rare
occurrence, became more frequent and stronger. The days, from the
stillness of the air, were very hot; but at night the dews were heavy,
and it was very cold. Charley asserted that he had seen ice at our last
camp.
The black cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus Banksii) has been much more
frequently observed of late.
We used the last of our salt at the last camp; and what we should do
without it, was a question of considerable interest. As I had never taken
salt with me in my reconnoitring expeditions, and had never felt the want
of it with dried beef, either grilled or raw, I recommended my companions
to eat their meat in the same state; and, in fact, good dry beef, without
any farther preparation, was much relished by all of us: for, when
grilled, it became ashy and burnt, particularly when without fat; and, if
stewed, although it yielded a good broth, it became tough and tasteless.
The meat of the last bullock was very hard and juiceless, and something
was to be done to soften it, and make it palatable: as we had no fat, we
frequently steamed it with water, but this rendered it tough, without
facilitating in the least the mastication; and its fibres, entering
between our teeth, rendered them exceedingly tender, and caused us much
pain. After a week's trial, and several experiments, we returned to our
former practice of stewing it, and in a very short time relished it as
much without salt, as we had formerly done with it.
CHAPTER IX
THE STARRY HEAVENS--SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE--SAWFISH--TWO-STORIED GUNYAS
OF THE NATIVES--THE MITCHELL--MURPHY'S PONY POISONED--GREEN
TREE-ANT--NEW BEVERAGE--CROCODILE--AUDACITY OF KITES--NATIVES NOT
FRIENDLY--THE CAMP ATTACKED AT NIGHT BY THEM--MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT
WOUNDED, AND MR. GILBERT KILLED.
June 1.--Mr. Gilbert and Charley made an excursion down the river last
night, to look for water, but, as they did not return in the morning, and
as water had been found, after they left, about four miles lower down, we
started to meet them. Observing a swarm of white cranes circling in the
air, and taking their flight down the river, I concluded that we should
meet with a good supply of water lower down, and, therefore, passed the
nearest water-hole; but, the country and the bed of the river being
exceedingly rocky, our progress was very slow. After proceeding about
eight miles, we came to the junction of a river from the south-west with
the Lynd; and encamped at some small pools of water in latitude 17
degrees 45 minutes 40 seconds: having travelled, during the last two
stages, in a west-north-west direction.
June 2.--When we left our camp this morning, Mr. Gilbert and Charley
returned from their ride; they had come on our tracks last night, but,
surrounded as they were by rocky hills and gullies, had been compelled to
encamp. We travelled about seven miles and a half, and crossed three good
sized creeks, joining the Lynd from the north east. The river divided
several times into anabranches, flowing round, and insulating rocky hills
and ridges. It was much better supplied with water, and contained several
large reedy lagoons. An elegant Acacia, about thirty or thirty-five feet
high, grew on its small flats: it had large drooping glaucous bipinnate
leaves, long broad pods, and oval seeds, half black, and half bright red.
June 3.--We continued our journey down the river, about seven or eight
miles. The first three miles were very tolerable, over limited box-flats
near the river. As we approached the ranges again, the supply of water
increased; and we passed one large poel, in particular, with many ducks
and spoonbills on it. But the ranges approached the banks of the river on
both sides, and formed either precipitous walls, or flats so exceedingly
rocky, that it was out of the question to follow it. We, therefore,
ascended the hills and mountains, and with our foot-sore cattle passed
over beds of sharp shingles of porphyry. We crept like snails over these
rocky hills, and through their gullies filled with boulders and shingles,
until I found it necessary to halt, and allow my poor beasts to recover.
During the afternoon, I examined the country in advance, and found that
the mountains extended five miles farther, and were as rocky as those we
had already passed. But, after that, they receded from the river, and the
country became comparatively level. To this place I brought forward my
party on the 4th June, and again descended into the valley of the river,
and encamped near a fine pool of water in its sandy bed, in latitude 17
degrees 34 minutes 17 seconds. Here, last night, I met a family of
natives who had just commenced their supper; but, seeing us, they ran
away and left their things, without even making an attempt to frighten
us. Upon examining their camp, I found their koolimans, (vessels to keep
water) full of bee bread, of which I partook, leaving for payment some
spare nose rings of our bullocks. In their dillies I found the fleshy
roots of a bean, which grows in a sandy soil, and has solitary yellow
blossoms; the tuber of a vine, which has palmate leaves; a bitter potato,
probably belonging to a water-plant; a fine specimen of rock-crystal; and
a large cymbium (a sea shell), besides other trifles common to almost all
the natives we had seen. Their koolimans were very large, almost like
small boats, and were made of the inner layer of the bark of the
stringy-bark tree. There was no animal food in the camp.
The whole extent of the mountainous country passed in our two last
stages, was of porphyry, with crystals of quartz and felspar in a grey
paste; on both sides of it, the rock was granite and pegmatite; and, at
the north-west side of the gorge, I observed talc-schist in the bed of
the river.
The vegetation of the forest, and along the river, did not vary; but, on
the mountains, the silver-leaved Ironbark prevailed.
The general course of the Lynd, from my last latitude to that of the 4th
June, was north-west.
Sleeping in the open air at night, with a bright sky studded with its
stars above us, we were naturally led to observe more closely the hourly
changes of the heavens; and my companions became curious to know the
names of those brilliant constellations, with which nightly observation
had now, perhaps for the first time, made them familiar. We had reached a
latitude which allowed us not only to see the brightest stars of the
southern, but, also of the northern hemisphere, and I shall never forget
the intense pleasure I experienced, and that evinced by my companions,
when I first called them, about 4 o'clock in the morning, to see Ursa
Major. The starry heaven is one of those great features of nature, which
enter unconsciously into the composition of our souls. The absence of the
stars gives us painful longings, the nature of which we frequently do not
understand, but which we call home sickness:--and their sudden
re-appearance touches us like magic, and fills us with delight. Every new
moon also was hailed with an almost superstitious devotion, and my
Blackfellows vied with each other to discover its thin crescent, and
would be almost angry with me when I strained my duller eyes in vain to
catch a glimpse of its faint light in the brilliant sky which succeeds
the setting of the sun. The questions: where were we at the last new
moon? how far have we travelled since? and where shall we be at the
next?--were invariably discussed amongst us; calculations were made as to
the time that would be required to bring us to the end of our journey,
and there was no lack of advice offered as to what should, and ought to
be done.
At several of our last camps the cry of the goat suckers, and the hooting
of owls, were heard the whole night; and immediately after sunset, the
chirping of several kinds of crickets was generally heard, the sound of
which was frequently so metallic, as to be mistaken for the tinkling of
our bell. At Separation Creek, we first met with the ring-tailed opossum;
and, on the table land, often heard its somewhat wailing cry.
June 5.--We travelled, in a direct line, about nine miles west by north,
down the river, although the distance along its banks was much greater;
for it made a large bend at first to the northward, and afterwards, being
turned by a fine conspicuous short range, to the westward. I named the
Range after W. Kirchner, Esq., another of the supporters of my
expedition. The river was here, in some places, fully half a mile broad,
and formed channels covered with low shrubs, among which a myrtle was
frequent. Between the ranges, the river became narrower: and, before it
reached Kirchner's Range, a large creek joined it from the eastward; and
another from the southward, after it had passed the range. The flats
increased on both side of the river, and were openly timbered with box
and narrow-leaved Ironbark. The rock near our yesterday's camp was
talc-schist. Farther down sienite was observed, which contained so much
hornblende as to change occasionally into hornblende rock, with scattered
crystals of quartz. Granite and pegmatite were round some lagoons near
the creek from the southward. The clustered fig tree of the Burdekin,
became again more frequent; but Sarcocephalus was the characteristic tree
of the river. The Acacia of Expedition Range and of the upper Lynd, grew
to a comparatively large size in the open forest. We observed a cotton
tree (Cochlospermum), covered with large yellow blossoms, though entirely
leafless; and we could not help thinking how great an ornament this plant
would be to the gardens of the colony.
As the water-holes became larger, water-fowl became more plentiful; and
Brown succeeded in shooting several wood-ducks and a Malacorhyncus
membranaceus. The bean of the Mackenzie was very abundant in the sandy
bed of the river; we roasted and ate some of its fruit; it was, however,
too heavy, and produced indigestion: Mr. Phillips pounded them, and they
made an excellent substitute for coffee, which I preferred to our tea,
which, at that time, was not very remarkable for its strength.
June 6.--We travelled about nine miles west by north to latitude 17
degrees 30 minutes 47 seconds. The first part of the stage was over an
undulating country timbered with box and Ironbark; but the latter part
was hilly and mountainous: the mountains were so rocky, where they
entered the bed of the river, that we were obliged to leave its banks,
and travel over a very difficult country.
On the small flats, the apple-gum grew with a few scattered Moreton Bay
ash trees; on the bergues of the river we found the white cedar (Melia
azedarach), Clerodendron; an asclepiadaceous shrub with large triangular
seed-vessels; and, on the hills, the blood-wood and stringy-bark. The
rock, as far as I examined it, was of porphyry of great hardness, and
composing hills of an almost conical form.
June 7.--The same difficult country not only continued, but rather
increased. Charley told me last night, on his return from a walk, that he
had found sandstone. To-day we travelled over porphyries like those of
the last stage: but, about four miles from the last camp, steep sandstone
rocks with excavations appeared on our left, at some distance from the
river, from which they were separated by porphyry; but, farther on, they
approached the river on both sides, and formed steep slopes, which
compelled us to travel along the bed of the river itself. Two large
creeks joined the river from the southward, one of which was running, and
also made the river run until the stream lost itself in the sandy bed. At
the end of the stage, however, the stream re-appeared, and we were fairly
on the fourth flowing river of the expedition: for the Condamine,
although not constantly, was raised by rains, and showed the origin of
its supply, by the muddy nature of its waters; the Dawson commenced
running where we left it; and the Burdekin, with several of its
tributaries, was running as far as we followed it. The waters of the
Dawson, the Burdekin, and the Lynd, were very clear, and received their
constant supply from springs.
We passed a camp of natives, who vere very much alarmed at the report of
a gun, which Mr. Gilbert happened to fire when very near them; this he
did in his anxiety to procure a pair of Geophaps plumifera, for his
collection. These pretty little pigeons had been first observed by Brown
in the course of our yesterday's stage, who shot two of them, but they
were too much mutilated to make good specimens. We frequently saw them
afterwards, but never more than two, four, or six together, running with
great rapidity and with elevated crest over the ground, and preferring
the shady rocks along the sandy bed of the river. I tried several methods
to render the potatoes, which we had found in the camps of the natives,
eatable; but neither roasting nor boiling destroyed their sickening
bitterness. At last, I pounded and washed them, and procured their
starch, which was entirely tasteless, but thickened rapidly in hot water,
like arrow-root; and was very agreeable to eat, wanting only the addition
of sugar to make it delicious; at least so we fancied.
June 8.--We travelled about nine miles west-north-west. The country was
in general open, with soft ground on the more extensive flats; although
sandstone ranges approached the river in many places. Four good-sized
creeks entered the river from the southward. The sandstone, or psammite,
was composed of large grains of quartz mixed with clay of a whitish red
or yellow colour; it frequently formed steep cliffs and craggy rugged
little peaks.
The stringy-bark grew to a fine size on the hills, and would yield,
together with Ironbark and the drooping tea-tree, the necessary timber
for building. A new species of Melaleuca and also of Boronia were found,
when entering upon the sandstone formation.
The wind for the last few days has been westerly; cumuli forming during
the day, dissolved towards sunset; the days were very hot, the nights
mild and dry. It was evident that we had descended considerably into the
basin of the gulf.
June 9.--We travelled about ten miles north-west. Box-tree flats, of more
or less extent, were intercepted by abrupt barren craggy hills composed
of sandstone, which seemed to rest on layers of argillaceous rock. The
latter was generally observed at the foot of the hills and in the bed of
the river; it had in most places been worn by the action of water. The
stringy-bark became even numerous on the flats, in consequence of the
more sandy nature of the soil: but the hills were scrubby, and Mr.
Gilbert reported that he had even seen the Bricklow. The grass of the
Isaacs grew from twelve to fifteen feet high, in the hollows near the
river, which was, as usual, fringed with Sarcocephalus; a species of
Terminalia; the drooping tea-tree; and with an Acacia which perfumed the
air with the fragrant odours of its flowers. We gathered some blossoms of
the drooping tea-tree, which were full of honey, and, when soaked,
imparted a very agreeable sweetness to the water. We frequently observed
great quantities of washed blossoms of this tree in the deserted camps of
the natives; showing that they were as fond of the honey in the blossoms
of the tea-tree, as the natives of the east coast are of that of the
several species of Banksia.
June 10.--We travelled about five miles north-north-west to latitude 17
degrees 9 minutes 17 seconds. The flats, the rugged hills, and the river,
maintained the same character. Creeks, probably of no great extent,
joined the Lynd from the south side of all the hills we passed both
yesterday and to-day.
The weather was very fine, although exceedingly hot during the day; but
the nights were mild, and without dew. An easterly and south-easterly
wind blew during the whole day, moderated a little at sunset, and again
freshened up after it; but the latter part of the night, and for an hour
and a half after sunrise, was calm. I was induced to think that this wind
originated from the current of cold air flowing from the table-land of
the Burdekin down to the gulf, as the easterly winds west of New England
do, and as the westerly winds of Sydney during July and August, which are
supposed to be equally connected with the table-land of New England and
of Bathurst. The westerly winds occurring at the upper Lynd, do not
militate against such a supposition, as they might well belong to an
upper current coming from the sea.
Two new fishes were caught; both were very small; the one
malacopterygious, and resembling the pike, would remain at times
motionless at the bottom, or dart at its prey; the other belonged to the
perches, and had an oblong compressed body, and three dark stripes
perpendicular to its length; this would hover through the water, and
nibble at the bait. Silurus and Gristes were also caught.
Brown rendered himself very useful to us in shooting ducks, which were
very numerous on the water-holes; and he succeeded several times in
killing six, eight, or ten, at oneshot; particularly the Leptotarsis,
GOULD, (whistling duck) which habitually crowd close together on the
water. Native companions were also numerous, but these birds and the
black cockatoos were the most wary of any that we met. Whilst travelling
with our bullocks through the high grass, we started daily a great number
of wallabies; two of which were taken by Charley and John Murphy,
assisted by our kangaroo dog. Brown, who had gone to the lower part of
the long pool of water near our encampment, to get a shot at some
sheldrakes (Tadorna Raja), returned in a great hurry, and told me that he
had seen a very large and most curious fish dead, and at the water's
edge. Messrs. Gilbert and Calvert went to fetch it, and I was greatly
surprised to find it a sawfish (Pristis), which I thought lived
exclusively in salt water. It was between three and four feet in length,
and only recently, perhaps a few days, dead. It had very probably come up
the river during a flood, for the water-hole in which the creature had
been detained, had no connection with the tiny stream, which hardly
resisted the absorbing power of the sands. Another question was, what
could have been the cause of its death? as the water seemed well tenanted
with small fish. We supposed that it had pursued its prey into shallow
water, and had leaped on the dry land, in its efforts to regain the deep
water. Charley also found and brought me the large scales of the fish of
the Mackenzie, and the head-bones of a large guard-fish.
June 11.--We travelled about eight miles due north. The bed of the river
was very broad; and an almost uninterrupted flat, timbered with box and
apple-gum, extended along its banks. We were delighted with the most
exquisite fragrance of several species of Acacia in blossom.
June 12.--We travelled about nine miles N.N.W. to lat. 16 degrees 55
minutes. The flats were again interrupted by sandstone ranges. One large
creek, and several smaller ones joined the river.
June 13.--We accomplished nine miles to-day in a N.N.W. direction. The
country was partly rocky; the rock was a coarse conglomerate of broken
pieces of quartz, either white or coloured with oxide of iron; it greatly
resembled the rock of the Wybong hills on the upper Hunter, and was
equally worn and excavated. The flats were limited, and timbered with
apple-gum, box, and blood-wood, where the sand was mixed with a greater
share of clay; and with stringy-bark on the sandy rocky soil; also with
flooded-gum, in the densely grassed hollows along the river. The Severn
tree, the Acacia of Expedition Range, and the little bread tree, were
frequent along the banks of the river. A species of Stravadium attracted
our attention by its loose racemes of crimson coloured flowers, and of
large three or four ribbed monospermous fruit; it was a small tree, with
bright green foliage, and was the almost constant companion of the
permanent water-holes. As its foliage and the manner of its growth
resemble the mangrove, we called it the Mangrove Myrtle.
Brown shot fifteen ducks, mostly Leptotarsis Eytoni, GOULD.; and Charley
a bustard (Otis Australasianus), which saved two messes of our meat.
The river was joined by a large creek from the south-west, and by several
small ones; we passed a very fine lagoon, at scarcely three miles from
our last camp.
June 14.--We travelled nine miles north by west, to lat. 16 degrees 38
minutes. The box-tree flats were very extensive, and scattered over with
small groves of the Acacia of Expedition Range. The narrow-leaved
Ironbark had disappeared with the primitive rocks; the moment sandstone
commenced, stringy-bark took its place. We passed some lagoons, crossed a
good sized creek from the south-west, and saw a small lake in the
distance. At the latter part of the stage the country became more
undulating. The edges of the stiff shallows were densely covered with the
sharp pointed structures of the white ants, about two or three feet high.
They were quite as frequent at the upper part of the river, where I
omitted to mention them. We saw a very interesting camping place of the
natives, containing several two-storied gunyas, which were constructed in
the following manner: four large forked sticks were rammed into the
ground, supporting cross poles placed in their forks, over which bark was
spread sufficiently strong and spacious for a man to lie upon; other
sheets of stringy-bark were bent over the platform, and formed an arched
roof, which would keep out any wet. At one side of these constructions,
the remains of a large fire were observed, with many mussel-shells
scattered about. All along the Lynd we had found the gunyas of the
natives made of large sheets of stringy-bark, not however supported by
forked poles, but bent, and both ends of the sheet stuck into the ground;
Mr. Gilbert thought the two-storied gunyas were burial places; but we met
with them so frequently afterwards, during our journey round the gulf,
and it was frequently so evident that they had been recently inhabited,
that no doubt remained of their being habitations of the living, and
constructed to avoid sleeping on the ground during the wet season.
June 15.--We travelled about nine miles and a half down the river, over a
country like that of yesterday, the tree vegetation was, however, more
scanty, the forest still more open, the groves of Acacia larger. Brown
returned with two sheldrakes (Tadorna Raja), four black ducks (Anas Novae
Hollandiae), four teals (Querquedula castanea); and brought the good news
that the Lynd joined a river coming from the south-east, with a rapid
stream to the westward.
June 16.--We left the Lynd, along which we had journeyed from lat. 17
degrees 58 minutes to lat. 16 degrees 30 minutes, and travelled about
twelve miles W.N.W., when we encamped at the west side of a very long
lagoon Though I did not see the junction of the two rivers myself, Mr.
Roper, Brown, and Charley, informed me, that the Lynd became very narrow,
and its banks well confined, before joining the new river; which I took
the liberty of naming after Sir Thomas Mitchell, the talented
Surveyor-General of New South Wales; they also stated that the Lynd was
well filled by a fine sheet of water. The bed of the Mitchell was very
broad, sandy, and quite bare of vegetation; showing the more frequent
recurrence of floods. A small stream meandered through the sheet of sand,
and from time to time expanded into large water-holes: the river was also
much more tortuous in its course than the Lynd, which for long distances
generally kept the same course. The Mitchell came from the eastward, and
took its course to the west-north-west. At the sudden bends of the river,
the bergue was interrupted by gullies, and occasionally by deep creeks,
which seemed, however, only to have a short course, and to be the outlets
of the waters collecting on the flats and stiff plains at some distance
from the river. The bergue was covered with fine bloodwood trees,
stringy-bark and box. At a greater distance from the river, the trees
became scanty and scattered, and, still farther, small plains extended,
clothed but sparingly with a wiry grass. These plains were bounded by an
open forest of the Acacia of Expedition Range. This little tree gave us a
good supply of a light amber-coloured wholesome gum, which we sometimes
ate in its natural state, or after it had been dissolved by boiling.
Towards the end of the day's stage, we came to several very fine lagoons;
one of which was several miles long, and apparently parallel to the
river: it was exceedingly deep, and covered with the broad leaves of
Villarsia and Nymphaea, and well stocked with numerous large fish, which
betrayed their presence by an incessant splashing during the early part
of the night. John Murphy caught the small striped perch of the Lynd; and
another small perch-like fish, with a broad anal fin, which had already
excited our admiration at the Lynd, by the beauty of its colours, and by
the singularity of its movements. Charley saw the Silurus and the
guardfish, and caught several of the broad-scaled fish of the Mackenzie;
one of which, a most beautiful specimen, has been preserved and sent to
Mr. Gould.
When we left our last camp at the Lynd, John Murphy's pony was missing.
Charley went to look for it, and did not join us before we had arrived at
our camp, after an unusually long and fatiguing stage. He brought us the
melancholy news that he had found the poor beast on the sands of the
Lynd, with its body blown up, and bleeding from the nostrils. It had
either been bitten by a snake; or had eaten some noxious herb, which had
fortunately been avoided by the other horses. Accidents of this kind were
well calculated to impress us with the conviction of our dependence on
Providence, which had hitherto been so kind and merciful.
As all our meat was consumed, I was compelled to stop, in order to kill
one of our little steers. It proved to be very fat, and allowed us once
more to indulge in our favourite dish of fried liver. Although we were
most willing to celebrate the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, and
to revive our own ambitious feelings at the memory of the deeds of our
illustrious heroes, we had nothing left but the saturated rags of our
sugar bags; which, however, we had kept for the purpose, and which we now
boiled up with our tea: our last flour was consumed three weeks ago; and
the enjoyment of fat cake, therefore, was not to be thought of. Should
any of my readers think these ideas and likings ridiculous and foolish,
they may find plenty of analogous facts by entering the habitations of
the poor, where I have not only witnessed, but enjoyed, similar treats of
sugared tea and buttered bread.
In crossing one of the creeks we found a species of Acacia [Inga
moniliformis, D. C. Prod. Vol. II. p. 440, where it is described
as having been found at Timor.], with articulate pods and large brown
seeds; it was a small tree with spreading branches, and a dark green shady
foliage: it occurred afterwards on all the creeks and water-holes until we
reached our destination.
It was at the lower part of the Lynd that we first saw the green-tree
ant; which seemed to live in small societies in rude nests between the
green leaves of shady trees. The passer by, when touching one of these
nests, would be instantaneously covered with them, and would soon be
aware of their presence by the painful bites they are able, and
apparently most ready, to inflict.
June 19.--We travelled about eight miles N. 50 degrees W. lat. 16 degrees
22 minutes 16 seconds and again encamped at a very deep lagoon, covered
near its edges with Villarsias, but without Nymphaeas. The soil of the
flat round the lagoon, was very stiff and suitable for making bricks. The
country along the Mitchell was an immense uninterrupted flat with a very
clayey soil, on which the following plants were frequent: viz. Grevillea,
Cerotaphylla, and Mimosoides, a Melaleuca with broad lanceolate leaves,
Spathodea and a Balfouria, R. Br.
Whilst walking down by the lagoon, I found a great quantity of ripe
Grewia seeds, and, on eating many of them, it struck me, that their
slightly acidulous taste, if imparted to water, would make a very good
drink; I therefore gathered as many as I could, and boiled them for about
an hour; the beverage which they produced was at all events the best we
had tasted on our expedition: and my companions were busy the whole
afternoon in gathering and boiling the seeds.
Charley and Brown, who had gone to the river, returned at a late hour,
when they told us that they had seen the tracks of a large animal on the
sands of the river, which they judged to be about the size of a big dog,
trailing a long tail like a snake. Charley said, that when Brown fired
his gun, a deep noise like the bellowing of a bull was heard; which
frightened both so much that they immediately decamped. This was the
first time that we became aware of the existence of the crocodile in the
waters of the gulf.
June 20.--We travelled about ten miles north-west, and avoided the
gullies by keeping at a distance from the river. Plains covered with high
dry grass alternated with an open forest; in which we observed Spathodea,
Bauhinia, a Balfouria, groves of Cochlospermum gossypium, and several
other trees, which I had seen in the scrubs of Comet River; among which
was the arborescent Cassia with long pods. A Bauhinia, different from the
two species I had previously seen, was covered with red blossoms, which,
where the tree abounded, gave quite a purple hue to the country. The
stringy-bark, the bloodwood, the apple-gum, the box, and the flooded-gum,
grew along the bergue of the river.
We passed some fine lagoons at the latter end of the stage. The banks of
the river were so steep, that the access to its water was difficult; its
stream, deep and apparently slow, occupied about half the bed, which was
perhaps one hundred and eighty, or two hundred yards broad. The soil was
very sandy, and three deep channels parallel to the river were overgrown
with high stiff grass. A pretty yellow Ipomoea formed dense festoons
between the trees that fringed the waters. The unripe seeds of
Cochlospermum, when crushed, gave a fine yellow colour, shaded into an
orange hue.
Large flocks of Peristera histrionica (the Harlequin pigeon) were lying
on the patches of burnt grass on the plains, they feed on the brown seeds
of a grass, which annoyed us very much by getting into our stockings,
trowsers, and blankets. The rose-breasted cockatoo, Mr. Gilbert's
Platycercus of Darling Downs, and the Betshiregah (Melopsittacus
undulatus, GOULD.) were very numerous, and it is probable that the plains
round the gulf are their principal home, whence they migrate to the
southward. The white and black cockatoos were also very numerous.
John Murphy caught four perches, one of which weighed two pounds. The
purple ant of the east coast has disappeared, and a similar one with
brick-coloured head and thorax, but by no means so voracious, has taken
its place.
The flooded-gum and the bloodwood were in blossom: this usually takes
place, at Moreton Bay, in November and December. This different state of
vegetation to the northward and southward, may perhaps account for the
periodical migration of several kinds of birds.
June 21.--A shower of rain fell, but cleared up at midnight. We travelled
nine miles north-west to lat. 16 degrees 9 minutes 41 seconds, over a
country very much like that of the two preceding stages, and past several
fine lagoons, richly adorned by the large showy flowers of a white
Nymphaea, the seed-vessels of which some families of natives were busily
gathering: after having blossomed on the surface of the water, the
seed-vessel grows larger and heavier, and sinks slowly to the bottom,
where it rots until its seeds become free, and are either eaten by fishes
and waterfowl, or form new plants. The natives had consequently to dive
for the ripe seed-vessels; and we observed them constantly disappearing
and reappearing on the surface of the water. They did not see us until we
were close to them, when they hurried out of the water, snatched up some
weapons and ran off, leaving their harvest of Nymphaea seeds behind.
Brown had visited another lagoon, where he had seen an old man and two
gins; the former endeavoured to frighten him by setting the grass on
fire, but, when he saw that Brown still approached, he retired into the
forest. We took a net full of seeds, and I left them a large piece of
iron as payment. On returning to the camp, we boiled the seeds, after
removing the capsule; but as some of the numerous partitions had
remained, the water was rendered slightly bitter. This experiment having
failed, the boiled seeds were then (Unclear:)tied with a little fat,
which rendered them very palatable and remarkably satisfying. The best
way of cooking them was that adopted by the natives, who roast the whole
seed-vessel. I then made another trial to obtain the starch from the
bitter potatoes, in which I succeeded; but the soup for eight people,
made with the starch of sixteen potatoes, was rather thin.
We were encamped at a small creek, scarcely a mile from the river, from
which John Murphy and Brown brought the leaves of the first palm trees we
had seen on the waters of the gulf. They belonged to the genus Corypha;
some of them were very thick and high.
The mornings and evenings were very beautiful, and are surpassed by no
climate that I have ever lived in. It was delightful to watch the fading
and changing tints of the western sky after sunset, and to contemplate,
in the refreshing coolness of advancing night, the stars as they
successively appeared, and entered on their nightly course. The state of
our health showed how congenial the climate was to the human
constitution; for, without the comforts which the civilized man thinks
essentially necessary to life; without flour, without salt and miserably
clothed, we were yet all in health; although at times suffering much from
weakness and fatigue. At night we stretched ourselves on the ground,
almost as naked as the natives, and though most of my companions still
used their tents, it was amply proved afterwards that the want of this
luxury was attended with no ill consequences.
We heard some subdued cooees, not very far from our camp, which I thought
might originate from natives returning late from their excursions, and
whose attention had been attracted by our fires. I discharged a gun to
make them aware of our presence; after which we heard no more of them.
June 22.--We travelled about twelve miles N. W. 6 degrees W. to lat. 16
degrees 3 minutes 11 seconds, and encamped at a swamp or sedgy lagoon,
without any apparent outlet; near which a great number of eagles, kites,
and crows were feasting on the remains of a black Ibis. We passed a very
long lagoon, and, in the latter part of our stage, the country had much
improved, both in the increased extent of its forest land, and in the
density and richness of its grass.
June. 23.--We travelled eight or nine miles in a W. N. W. direction to
latitude 16 degrees 0 minutes 26 seconds, over many Bauhinia plains with
the Bauhinias in full blossom. The stiff soil of these plains was here
and there marked by very regular pentagonal, hexagonal, and heptagonal
cracks, and, as these cracks retain the moisture of occasional rains
better than the intervening space, they were fringed with young grass,
which showed these mathematical figures very distinctly. We passed a
great number of dry swamps or swampy water-holes; sometimes however
containing a little water. They were surrounded by the Mangrove myrtle
(Stravadium), which was mentioned as growing at the lower Lynd. The
bottom of the dry swamps was covered with a couch grass, which, like all
the other grasses, was partly withered.
Bustards were numerous, and the Harlequin pigeon was seen in large
flocks. Wallabies abounded both in the high grass of the broken country
near the river, and in the brush. Mr. Roper shot one, the hind quarters
of which weighed 15 1/2 lbs.: it was of a light grey colour, and was like
those we had seen at Separation Creek. Charley and Brown got seventeen
ducks, on one of the sedgy lagoons.
I visited the bed of the river: its banks were covered with a rather open
vine brush. Palm trees became numerous, and grew forty or fifty feet
high, with a thick trunk swelling in the middle, and tapering upwards and
downwards. Sarcocephalus, the clustered fig-tree, and the drooping
tea-tree, were also present as usual. The bed of the river, an immense
sheet of sand, was full a mile and a half broad, but the stream itself
did not exceed thirty yards in width.
During the night we had again a few drops of rain.
June 24.--We continued our journey about nine miles west by north to
latitude 15 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds, over a rather broken country
alternating with Bauhinia plains and a well-grassed forest. The banks of
a large lagoon, on which several palm trees grew, were covered with heaps
of mussel-shells. Swarms of sheldrakes were perching in the trees, and,
as we approached, they rose with a loud noise, flying up and down the
lagoon, and circling in the air around us. A chain of water-holes,
fringed with Mangrove myrtle, changed, farther to the westward, into a
creek, which had no connection with the river, but was probably one of
the heads of the Nassau. We crossed it, and encamped on a water-hole
covered with Nymphaeas, about a mile from the river, whose brushy banks
would have prevented us from approaching it, had we wished to do so.
Though the easterly winds still prevailed, a slight north-west breeze was
very distinctly felt, from about 11 o'clock a.m.
June 25.--We travelled about ten miles N.N.W. to latitude 15 degrees 51
minutes 26 seconds, but did not follow the river, which made large
windings to the northward. It was very broad where Brown saw it last,
and, by his account, the brush was almost entirely composed of palm
trees. He saw a little boat with a fine Cymbium shell floating on the
water. Our road led us over a well grassed forest land, and several
creeks, which, although rising near the river, appeared to have no
communication with it. Some plains of considerable size were between the
river and our line of march; they were well grassed, but full of
melon-holes, and rose slightly towards the river, forming a remarkable
water-shed, perhaps, between the Nassau and the Mitchell. As we
approached the river, we entered into a flat covered with stunted box,
and intersected by numerous irregular water-courses. The box was
succeeded by a Phyllanthus scrub, through which we pushed, and then came
to a broad creek, filled with fine water, but not running, although high
water-marks on the drooping tea-trees proved that it was occasionally
flooded. We did not understand, nor could we ascertain, in what relation
this singular country and the creek stood to the river, of which nothing
was to be seen from the right bank of the creek.
The scrub, and the high grass along the creek, were swarming with white
flanked wallabies, three of which Brown and Charley succeeded in
shooting; and these, with a common grey kangaroo caught by Spring, and
five ducks shot by Brown, provided our larder with a fine supply of game.
When I first came on the Lynd, I supposed that it flowed either
independently to the head of the gulf, or that it was the tributary of a
river which collected the waters of the York Peninsula, and carried them
in a south-west or south-south-west course to the head of the gulf of
Carpentaria. Such a course would have corresponded to that of the
Burdekin at the eastern side, and the supposition was tolerably warranted
by the peculiar conformation of the gulf. I expected, therefore, at every
stage down the Lynd, at every bend to the westward, that it would keep
that course. But, having passed the latitude of the head of the gulf, as
well as those of the Van Diemen and the Staaten rivers, the Lynd still
flowed to the north-west; and then, when it joined the Mitchell, I
imagined that the new river would prove to be the Nassau; but, when it
passed the latitude of that river, I conjectured that it would join the
sea at the large embouchure in the old charts, in latitude 15 degrees 5
minutes--the "Water Plaets" of the Dutch navigators. To follow it
farther, therefore, would have been merely to satisfy my curiosity, and
an unpardonable waste of time. Besides, the number of my bullocks was
decreasing, and prudence urged the necessity of proceeding, without any
farther delay, towards the goal of my journey. I determined therefore to
leave the Mitchell at this place, and to approach the sea-coast--so near
at least, as not to risk an easy progress--and to pass round the bottom
of the gulf.
June 26.--We travelled, accordingly, about seven miles almost due west,
the latitude of our new camp being 15 degrees 52 minutes 38 seconds. On
our way we passed some very fine long water-holes; some of which were
surrounded with reeds, and others covered with the white species of
Nymphaea; groves of Pandanus spiralis occupied their banks. Some fine
plains, full of melon-holes, but well grassed, separated from each other
by belts of forest-land, in which the Pandanus was also very frequent,
were crossed during the day.
June 27.--We travelled eight miles W.S.W. over a succession of plains
separated by belts of forest, consisting of bloodwood, box, apple-gum,
and rusty-gum. Some plains were scattered over with Bauhinias. The holes
along the plains are probably filled with water during the rainy season;
dead shells of Paludina were extremely numerous, and we found even the
shield of a turtle in one of them. At the end of the stage, we skirted
some dense scrub, and encamped at one of the lagoons parallel to a dry
creek, which must belong to the Nassau, as its latitude was 15 degrees 55
minutes 8 seconds. The lagoon was covered with small white Nymphaeas,
Damasoniums, and yellow Utricularias; and on its banks were heaps of
mussel-shells. The smoke of natives' fires were seen on the plains, in
every direction; but we saw no natives. Brown approached very near to a
flock of Harlequin pigeons, and shot twenty-two of them. A young grey
kangaroo was also taken.
The kites were so bold that one of them snatched the skinned specimen of
a new species of honey-sucker out of Mr. Gilbert's tin case; and, when we
were eating our meals, they perched around us on the branches of
overhanging trees, and pounced down even upon our plates, although held
in our hands, to rob us of our dinners;--not quite so bad, perhaps, as
the Harpies in the Aeneid, but sufficiently so to be a very great nuisance
to us.
Yesterday and to-day we experienced a cold dry southerly wind, which
lasted till about 11 o'clock A. M., when it veered to the south-west, but
at night returned again, and rendered the air very cold, and dry, which
was very evident from the total absence of dew. The forenoon was very
clear; cumuli and cirrho-cumuli gathered during the afternoon. The sky of
the sunset was beautifully coloured. After sunset, the clouds cleared
off, but, as the night advanced, gradually collected again.
A circumstance occurred to-day which gave me much concern, as it showed
that the natives of this part were not so amicably disposed towards us as
those we had hitherto met:--whilst Charley and Brown were in search of
game in the vicinity of our camp, they observed a native sneaking up to
our bullocks, evidently with the intention of driving them towards a
party of his black companions, who with poised spears were waiting to
receive them. Upon detecting this manoeuvre, Charley and his companion
hurried forward to prevent their being driven away, when the native gave
the alarm, and all took to their heels, with the exception of a lame
fellow, who endeavoured to persuade his friends to stand fight. Charley,
however, fired his gun, which had the intended effect of frightening
them; for they deserted their camp, which was three hundred yards from
ours, in a great hurry, leaving, among other articles, a small net full
of potatoes, which Charley afterwards picked up. The gins had previously
retired; a proof that mischief was intended.
June 28.--We crossed the creek, near which we had encamped, and travelled
about nine miles wost, over most beautifully varied country of plains, of
forest land, and chains of lagoons. We crossed a large creek or river,
which I believed to be the main branch of the Nassau. It was well
supplied with water-holes, but there was no stream. Loose clayey
sandstone cropped out in its bed, and also in the gullies which joined
it. A small myrtle tree with smooth bark, and a leafless tree resembling
the Casuarina, grew plentifully on its banks. We saw smoke rising-in
every direction, which showed how thickly the country was inhabited. Near
the lagoons we frequently noticed bare spots of a circular form, about
twelve or fifteen feet in diameter, round each of which was a belt of
ten, twelve, or more fire places, separated from each other by only a few
feet. It seems that the natives usually sit within the circle of fires;
but it is difficult to know whether it belonged to a family, or whether
each fire had an independent proprietor. Along the Lynd and Mitchell, the
natives made their fires generally in heaps of stones, which served as
ovens for cooking their victuals. Bones of kangaroos and wallabies, and
heaps of mussel-shells, were commonly seen in their camps; but fish bones
were very rarely observed. It was very different, however, when we
travelled round the head, and along the western side, of the gulf; for
fish seemed there to form the principal food of the natives.
At the end of our stage, we came to a chain of shallow lagoons, which
were slightly connected by a hollow. Many of them were dry; and fearing
that, if we proceeded much farther, we should not find water, I encamped
on one of them, containing a shallow pool; it was surrounded by a narrow
belt of small tea trees, with stiff broad lanceolate leaves. As the water
occupied only the lower part of this basin, I deposited our luggage in
the upper part. Mr. Roper and Mr. Calvert made their tent within the belt
of trees, with its opening towards the packs; whilst Mr. Gilbert and
Murphy constructed theirs amongst the little trees, with its entrance
from the camp. Mr. Phillips's was, as usual, far from the others, and at
the opposite side of the water. Our fire place was made outside of the
trees, on the banks. Brown had shot six Leptotarsis Eytoni, (whistling
ducks) and four teals, which gave us a good dinner; during which, the
principal topic of conversation was our probable distance from the sea
coast, as it was here that we first found broken sea shells, of the genus
Cytherea. After dinner, Messrs. Roper and Calvert retired to their tent,
and Mr. Gilbert, John, and Brown, were platting palm leaves to make a
hat, and I stood musing near their fire place, looking at their work, and
occasionally joining in their conversation. Mr. Gilbert was
congratulating himself upon having succeeded in learning to plat; and,
when he had nearly completed a yard, he retired with John to their tent.
This was about 7 o'clock; and I stretched myself upon the ground as
usual, at a little distance from the fire, and fell into a dose, from
which I was suddenly roused by a loud noise, and a call for help from
Calvert and Roper. Natives had suddenly attacked us. They had doubtless
watched our movements during the afternoon, and marked the position of
the different tents; and, as soon as it was dark, sneaked upon us, and
threw a shower of spears at the tents of Calvert, Roper, and Gilbert, and
a few at that of Phillips, and also one or two towards the fire. Charley
and Brown called for caps, which I hastened to find, and, as soon as they
were provided, they discharged their guns into the crowd of the natives,
who instantly fled, leaving Roper and Calvert pierced with several
spears, and severely beaten by their waddies. Several of these spears
were barbed, and could not be extracted without difficulty. I had to
force one through the arm of Roper, to break off the barb; and to cut
another out of the groin of Mr. Calvert. John Murphy had succeeded in
getting out of the tent, and concealing himself behind a tree, whence he
fired at the natives, and severely wounded one of them, before Brown had
discharged his gun. Not seeing Mr. Gilbert, I asked for him, when Charley
told me that our unfortunate companion was no more! He had come out of
his tent with his gun, shot, and powder, and handed them to him, when he
instantly dropped down dead. Upon receiving this afflicting intelligence,
I hastened to the spot, and found Charley's account too true. He was
lying on the ground at a little distance from our fire, and, upon
examining him, I soon found, to my sorrow, that every sign of life had
disappeared. The body was, however, still warm, and I opened the veins of
both arms, as well as the temporal artery, but in vain; the stream of
life had stopped, and he was numbered with the dead.
As soon as we recovered from the panic into which we were thrown by this
fatal event, every precaution was taken to prevent another surprise; we
watched through the night, and extinguished our fires to conceal our
individual position from the natives.
A strong wind blew from the southward, which made the night air
distressingly cold; it seemed as if the wind blew through our bodies.
Under all the circumstances that had happened, we passed an anxious
night, in a state of most painful suspense as to the fate of our still
surviving companions. Mr. Roper had received two or three spear wounds in
the scalp of his head; one spear had passed through his left arm, another
into his cheek below the jugal bone, and penetrated the orbit, and
injured the optic nerve, and another in his loins, besides a heavy blow
on the shoulder. Mr. Calvert had received several severe blows from a
waddi; one on the nose which had crushed the nasal bones; one on the
elbow, and another on the back of his hand; besides which, a barbed spear
had entered his groin; and another into his knee. As may be readily
imagined, both suffered great pain, and were scarcely able to move. The
spear that terminated poor Gilbert's existence, had entered the chest,
between the clavicle and the neck; but made so small a wound, that, for
some time, I was unable to detect it. From the direction of the wound, he
had probably received the spear when stooping to leave his tent.
The dawning of the next morning, the 29th, was gladly welcomed, and I
proceeded to examine and dress the wounds of my companions, more
carefully than I had been able to do in the darkness of the night.
Very early in the morning we heard the cooees of the natiyes, who seemed
wailing, as if one of their number was either killed or severely wounded:
for we found stains of blood on their tracks. They disappeared, however,
very soon, for, on reconnoitring about the place, I saw nothing of them.
I interred the body of our ill-fated companion in the afternoon, and read
the funeral service of the English Church over him. A large fire was
afterwards made over the grave, to prevent the natives from detecting and
disinterring the body. Our cattle and horses fortunately had not been
molested.
The cold wind from the southward continued the whole day; at night it
fell calm, and continued so until the morning of the 30th June, when a
strong easterly wind set in, which afterwards veered round to the north
and north-west.
Calvert and Roper recovered wonderfully, considering the severe injuries
they had received; and the wounds, which I feared as being the most
dangerous, promised with care and patience to do well. As it was
hazardous to remain long at the place, for the natives might return in
greater numbers, and repeat their attack, as well on ourselves as the
cattle, I determined to proceed, or at least to try if my wounded
companions could endure to be removed on horseback. In a case like this,
where the lives of the whole party were concerned, it was out of the
question to attend only to the individual feelings and wishes of the
patients; I felt for their position to the fullest extent that it was
possible for one to feel towards his fellow creatures so situated; but I
had equal claims on my attention. I had to look exclusively to the state
of their wounds, and to the consequences of the daily journey on their
constitutions; to judge if we could proceed or ought to stop; and I had
reason to expect, or at least was sanguine enough to hope, that although
the temporary feelings of acute pain might make them discontented with my
arrangements, sober reflection at the end of our journey would induce
them to do me justice.
The constant attention which they required, and the increased work which
fell to the share of our reduced number, had scarcely allowed me time to
reflect upon the melancholy accident which had befallen us, and the
ill-timed death of our unfortunate companion. All our energies were
roused, we found ourselves in danger, and, as was absolutely necessary,
we strained every nerve to extricate ourselves from it: but I was well
aware, that the more coolly we went to work, the better we should
succeed.
CHAPTER X
INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA--NATIVES MUCH MORE
NUMEROUS--THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA--THE STAATEN--A NATIVE
INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP--THE VAN DIEMEN--THE GILBERT--SINGULAR NATIVE
HUTS--CARON RIVER--FRIENDLY NATIVES--THE YAPPAR--MR. CALVERT
RECOVERED--MODE OF ENCAMPMENT--SWARMS OF FLIES--ABUNDANCE OF
SALT--NATIVES FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.
July 1.--We left the camp where Mr. Gilbert was killed, and travelled in
all about fourteen miles south-west, to lat. 16 degrees 6 minutes. We
passed an extensive box-tree flat, and, at four miles, reached a chain of
water-holes; but, during the next ten miles, we did not meet the
slightest indication of water. Box-tree flats of various sizes were
separated by long tracts of undulating country, covered with broad-leaved
tea-trees, Grevillea ceratophylla, and G. mimosoides, and with the new
species of Grevillea, with broad lanceolate leaves. We had to skirt
several impassable thickets and scrubs of tea-tree, in one of which
Pandanus abounded. At last, just as the sun was setting, and we were
preparing to encamp in the open forest without water, we came to a creek
with fine water-holes covered with Villarsias. Charley shot a native
companion; a Fabirou was seen crossing our camp. My wounded companions
got on uncommonly well, notwithstanding the long stage, and I now had all
reason to hope, that their wounds would not form any impediment to the
progress of our journey.
July 2.--We travelled ten miles south-west over a country exactly like
that of yesterday; and encamped at a shallow water-hole in a creek, which
headed in a tea-tree thicket, a grove of Pandanus being on its north
side, and a small box-flat to the southward. Though the country was then
very dry, it is very probably impassable during the rainy season. The
tea-tree thickets seemed liable to a general inundation, and many shallow
water-holes and melon-holes were scattered everywhere about the flats.
The flats and elevations of the surface were studded with turreted
ant-hills, either forming single sharp cones from three to five feet
high, and scarcely a foot broad at their base, or united into a row, or
several rows touching each other, and forming piles of most remarkable
appearance. The directions of the rows seemed to be the same over large
tracts of country, and to depend upon the direction of the prevailing
winds. I found Verticordia, a good sized tree, and a Melaleuca with
clustered orange blossoms and smooth bark, which I mentioned as growing
on the supposed Nassau.
July 3.--We followed the tea-tree creek about four miles lower down, and
encamped near some fine rocky water-holes, in which I discovered a yellow
Villarsia, resembling in its leaves Villarsia inundata, R. Br.
Our day's journey was a short one in consequence of our having started so
late. The delay was caused by Charley having captured an emu, a flock of
which he met when fetching the horses. By holding branches before him, he
was enabled to approach so close to them, that he shot one dead with a
charge of dust shot. It was a welcome prize, and repaid us for the delay.
To our wounded friends the delay itself was a welcome one.
The mussel-shells of these water-holes appeared to be narrower and
comparatively longer than those we had previously seen. Pandanus was, as
usual, very frequent; but a middle sized shady wide spreading tree,
resembling the elm in the colour and form of its leaves, attracted our
attention, and excited much interest. Its younger branches were rather
drooping, its fruit was an oblong yellow plum, an inch long and half an
inch in diameter, with a rather rough kernel. When ripe, the pericarp is
very mealy and agreeable to eat, and would be wholesome, if it were not
so extraordinarily astringent. We called this tree the "Nonda," from its
resemblance to a tree so called by the natives in the Moreton Bay
district. I found the fruit in the dilli of the natives on the 21st June,
and afterwards most abundantly in the stomach of the emu. The tree was
very common in the belt of forest along the creek.
The wind, during the last two days, was southerly, south-westerly, and
westerly, freshening up during the afternoon. The forenoon was very hot:
the night clear, and rather cool towards morning. I observed many
shooting stars during the two last nights.
July 4.--We travelled seven miles in a south-west direction, to lat. 16
degrees 15 minutes 11 seconds, over an entirely flat country, covered
with a very open forest of box, of bloodwood, and of the stiff-leaved
Melaleuca, with the arborescent Grevillea already mentioned, and with a
species of Terminalia with winged fruit. In the more sandy tracts of
bloodwood forest, grew the Nonda, the Pandanus, and the apple-gum. The
shallow creek was surrounded by a scrub of various myrtaceous trees,
particularly Melaleucas. The creek afterwards divided into water-holes,
fringed with Stravadium, which, however, lower down gave way to dense
belts of Polygonum. The water was evidently slightly brackish; the first
actual sign of the vicinity of the sea. A young emu was killed with the
assistance of Spring; and a sheldrake was shot by Brown. Native
companions were very numerous, and were heard after sunset, all round our
camp. The stomach of the emu was full of a small plant resembling
chickweed, which grew round the water-holes.
The smoke of the natives' fires was seen to the south and south-west.
July 5.--We travelled over full twenty miles of country, although the
distance from camp to camp, in a straight line, did not exceed fourteen,
in a south by west direction; the latitude of our new camp was 16 degrees
27 minutes 26 seconds. After passing several miles of tea-tree forest,
intermixed with box, and alternating with belts of grassy forest land,
with bloodwood and Nonda, we entered upon a series of plains increasing
in size, and extending to the westward as far as the eye could reach, and
separated from each other by narrow strips of forest; they were
well-grassed, but the grasses were stiff. Tea-tree hollows extended along
the outskirts of the plains. In one of them, we saw Salicornia for the
first time, which led us to believe that the salt water was close at
hand. Having crossed the plains, we came to broad sheets of sand,
overgrown with low shrubby tea-trees, and a species of Hakea, which
always grows in the vicinity of salt water. The sands were encrusted with
salt, and here and there strewed with heaps of Cytherea shells. Beyond
the sands, we saw a dense green line of mangrove trees extending along a
salt water creek, which we headed, and in which Brown speared the first
salt water mullet. We then came to a fine salt water river, whose banks
were covered with an open well grassed forest; interrupted only by flat
scrubby sandy creeks, into which the tide entered through narrow
channels, and which are probably entirely inundated by the spring tides.
Not finding any fresh water along the river I went up one of the creeks,
and found fresh water-holes, not in its bed, but parallel to it, scarcely
a mile from the river. When crossing the plains, the whole horizon
appeared to be studded with smoke from the various fires of the natives;
and when we approached the river, we noticed many well beaten footpaths
of the natives, who are found generally in greater numbers and stronger
tribes near the sea coast, where the supply of food is always more
abundant and certain.
The first sight of the salt water of the gulf was hailed by all with
feelings of indescribable pleasure, and by none more than by myself;
although tinctured with regret at not having succeeded in bringing my
whole party to the end of what I was sanguine enough to think the most
difficult part of my journey. We had now discovered a line of
communication by land between the eastern coast of Australia, and the
gulf of Carpentaria: we had travelled along never failing, and, for the
greater part, running waters: and over an excellent country, available,
almost in its whole extent, for pastoral purposes. The length of time we
had been in the wilderness, had evidently made the greater portion of my
companions distrustful of my abilities to lead them through the journey;
and, in their melancholy conversations, the desponding expression, "We
shall never come to Port Essington," was too often overheard by me to be
pleasant. My readers will, therefore, readily understand why Brown's
joyous exclamation of "Salt Water!" was received by a loud hurrah from
the whole party; and why all the pains, and fatigues, and privations we
had endured, were, for the moment, forgotten, almost as completely as if
we had arrived at the end of the journey.
July 6.--remained in camp the whole of this day, to rest the poor
animals, which had been much fatigued by our last long stage. Charley
shot a duck (Malacorhynchus membranaceus); and he, Brown, and John
Murphy, went to the salt water to angle. My expectations, however, of
catching fish in the salt water, and of drying them, were sadly
disappointed. The whole amount of their day's work was, a small Silurus,
one mullet, and some small guard-fish.
The weather continued fine, the forenoon usually very hot, but the air
was cooled in the afternoon by a south-west breeze; the nights were clear
and rather cold.
When I left Moreton Bay, I had taken a spare set of horse-shoes with me
for every horse. They were shod at our leaving the Downs, but they soon
lost their shoes; and, as our stages were short, and the ground soft, I
did not think it necessary to shoe them again. In travelling along the
Burdekin, however, and the upper Lynd, they became very foot-sore; but
still there was a sufficient change of good country to allow them to
recover; I had been frequently inclined to throw the spare shoes away,
but they had as often been retained, under the impression that they might
be useful, when we came to the gulf, to barter with the natives for food,
particularly for fish. Finding, however, that the natives were hostile,
and scarcely wishing to have any farther intercourse with them, I decided
upon leaving the horse-shoes, and several other cumbersome articles
behind; and they were consequently thrown, with two spare gun barrels,
into the water-hole at which we were encamped. The natives will probably
find them, when the holes dry up; and, if preserved, they will be a
lasting testimonial of our visit.
July 7.--Charley told me that he had followed the river up to its
termination. I consequently kept a little more to the left, in order to
head it, and travelled two or three miles through a fine bloodwood and
Nonda forest, the verdant appearance of which was much increased by the
leguminous Ironbark, which grew here in great perfection. Two emus had
just made their breakfast on some Nonda fruit when we started them, and
Charley and Brown, assisted by Spring, succeeded in killing one of them.
We soon came to a salt-water river, with a broad sandy bed, perfectly
free of vegetation, although its banks were fringed with drooping
tea-trees. The tide being low, we were enabled to ford it. Whilst
crossing it, a flock of black-winged pelicans stood gravely looking at
us. The latitude of the ford, which was two miles and a half south from
our last camp, would be 16 degrees 30 minutes, which corresponds with
that of the Staaten, marked at the outline of the coast. A well grassed
open forest extended along both sides of the river; and, at its left,
large deep Nymphaea lagoons were parallel to it. South of the Staaten, we
travelled over a forest country, similar to that of former stages, and
which might be aptly distinguished by the name of Grevillea Forest; as
Gr. mimosoides (R. Br.) is its characteristic feature; though a rather
stunted stiff-leaved tea-tree was more numerous. Some slight rises were
covered with thickets of the Acacia of Expedition Range. The last six or
seven miles of our stage were over an immense box-flat. We passed many
spots lately burnt by the natives, and saw the smoke of their fires in
every direction. We encamped on a good sized creek, on which grew the
articulate podded Acacia, the Mangrove Myrtle (Stravadium), and the
drooping tea-tree. As soon as we had pitched our tents, we cut up the
hind quarters of the emu into slices for drying; but we had to guard it
by turns, whip in hand, from a host of square-tailed kites (Milvus
isiurus).
John Murphy and Charley, whilst riding round the camp to ascertain if
natives were in the neighbourhood, came on one of their camps occupied
chiefly by women, and a few old men, who immediately ran off, but set the
grass on fire as they went, to prevent the approach of the horsemen; and
left behind them their waddies, spears, and a good supply of potatoes. At
dusk, when Charley brought in the horses, two of which we tethered near
the camp, the form of a native glided like a ghost into our camp, and
walked directly up to the fire. John, who saw him first, called out, "a
Blackfellow! look there! a Blackfellow!" and every gun was ready. But the
stranger was unarmed, and evidently unconscious of his position; for,
when he saw himself suddenly surrounded by the horses and ourselves, he
nimbly climbed a tree to its very summit, where he stood between some dry
branches like a strange phantom or a statue. We called to him, and made
signs for him to descend, but he not only remained silent, but
motionless, notwithstanding all the signs and noise we made. We then
discharged a gun, but it had not the intended effect of inducing him to
speak or stir. At last I desired Charley to ascend the neighbouring tree,
to show him that we could easily get at him if necessary. This plan was
more successful; for no sooner were Charley's intentions perceived, than
our friend gave the most evident proof of his being neither deaf nor
dumb, by calling out most lustily. He pooh'd, he birrrred, he spat, and
cooeed; in fact, he did everything to make the silent forest re-echo with
the wild sounds of his alarm; our horses, which were standing under the
tree, became frightened, and those which were loose ran away. We were
much afraid that his cooees would bring the whole tribe to his
assistance, and every one eagerly proffered his advice. Charley wished to
shoot him, "or," said he, "you will all be killed; I do not care for
myself, but I care for your being killed and buried." Others wished to
remove from the spot, and so give him an opportunity of escaping. I was,
of course, horrified at the idea of shooting a poor fellow, whose only
crime, if so it might be called, was in having mistaken our fire for that
of his own tribe: so I went to our own fire, which was at a short
distance, where he could see me distinctly, and then made signs for him
to descend and go away. He then began to be a little more quiet, and to
talk; but soon hallooed again, and threw sticks at myself, at my
companions, and at the horses. We now retired about eight yards, to allow
him to escape, which we had not done before, because I feared he might
imagine we were afraid of his incantations, for he sang most lamentable
corrobories, and cried like a child; frequently exclaiming, "Mareka!
Mareka!!" This word is probably identical with Marega; the name given by
the Malays to the natives of the north coast, which is also called by
them "Marega." [Capt. King's Intertropical Survey of Australia,
vol. I. p. 135.] After continuing his lamentations for some time, but of
which we took no notice, they gradually ceased; and, in a few minutes, a
slight rustling noise was heard, and he was gone: doubtless delighted at
having escaped from the hands of the pale-faced anthropophagi.
July 8.--This morning the whole tribe, well armed, watched us from a
distance; but they allowed us quietly to load our bullocks, and depart,
without offering us the least annoyance. Their companion will, no doubt,
leave a dreadful account of the adventures of last night to his black
posterity.
We travelled about twelve miles south by west to latitude 16 degrees 47
minutes; at first over an almost uninterrupted box-flat, full of
melon-holes, and with many small holes in the ground, which caused our
horses and cattle to stumble at almost every step. The dry melon-holes
were covered with dead Paludinas, with shells of a large crab, and of the
fresh water turtle. At about seven miles, we passed a strip of Blackwood
forest, with many Nonda trees; and crossed a small creek. The latter part
of the stage was again over a large box-flat, intersected by shallow
grassy depressions, timbered with flooded-gum. We saw on the rising
ground some open scrub, with scattered Bauhinias and Cochlospermums. Our
encampment was at a creek on the south side of a slight rise, with
Bauhinia trees, and near good water-holes. The creek, like all the others
we had passed, flowed to the westward.
Near our camp we examined three holes, full six feet deep, and four feet
in diameter, communicating with each other at their bottom. They were
about three feet apart, and appeared to have been dug with sharp sticks.
I have not the slightest idea for what purpose they were intended. They
were most certainly not dug to obtain roots; and it seemed unlikely for
wells; for the water, even in this unusually dry season, was very
abundant.
The white ant-hills, which are built in rows, had, during this stage, a
direction from north by west to south by east, and, as I have before
mentioned a conjecture that the little builders would expose the
narrowest side of their habitation to the weather side, the prevailing
winds would be from the north.
July 9.--We travelled thirteen or fourteen miles south by west to
latitude 17 degrees 0 minutes 13 seconds, at first crossing a box-flat,
and after that a succession of greater or smaller plains, separated by a
very open Grevillea forest. These plains were well grassed, or partly
covered with a species of Euphorbia, which was eaten by our horses and
cattle; and also with the long trailings of the native melon; the fruit
of which tastes very tolerably, after the bitter skin has been removed;
but when too ripe, the fruit is either insipid or nauseous. The bustard
seems to feed almost exclusively on them, for the stomach of one, which
Brown shot, was full of them.
The apple-gum, which we had missed for some time, again made its
appearance, accompanied by another white gum, with long narrow leaves. As
we approached the creek, at which we afterwards encamped, the vegetation
became richer, and the melon-holes enlarged into dry water-holes, which
were frequently shaded by the Acacia with articulate pods (Inga
moniliformis). The two species of Terminalia, of the upper Lynd, were
numerous; and a small green looking tree, which we found growing densely
along the creek, had wood of a brown colour, which smelt like raspberry
jam; and, upon burning it, the ashes produced a very strong lye, which I
used in dressing the wounds of my companions. This tree was found in
great abundance on all the rivers and creeks round the gulf, within the
reach of salt water; and when crossing Arnheim Land, though less
frequently.
Sandstone cropped out in the banks of the creek, and formed the
reservoirs in its bed.
Last night, and the night before, we experienced a very cold wind from
the southward.
The laughing Jackass (Dacelo cervina, GOULD) of this part of the country,
is of a different species from that of the eastern coast, is of a smaller
size, and speaks a different language; but the noise is by no means so
ridiculous as that of Dac. gigantea: he is heard before sunrise, and
immediately after sunset, like his representative of the eastern coast.
The latter was observed as far as the upper Lynd, where the new one made
his appearance.
We crossed a bush fire, which had been lighted just before we came to the
creek, but we did not see the incendiaries. In the morning of the 10th
July, however, they had discovered our tracks, and followed them until
they came in sight of the camp; but retired as soon as they saw us: and
when they met Charley returning with the bullocks, they ran away. After
half-an-hour's travelling towards the south-west, we came to the Van
Diemen, which is marked in Arrowsmith's map in latitude 17 degrees. It
was about seventy or eighty yards broad, with steep banks and a fine
sandy bed, containing detached pools of water surrounded by Polygonum,
and extremely boggy. My horse stuck in the mud, and it was with great
difficulty that I extricated him.
As our meal bags were empty, and no sign of game appeared, I decided upon
selecting a good open camping place, for the purpose of killing our last
little steer. The country was a fine open grassy forest land, in which
the apple-gum prevailed, and with many swampy grassy lagoons covered with
white, blue, and pink Nymphaeas. The box tree grew in their immediate
neighbourhood.
In the bed of the Van Diemen we saw some well constructed huts of the
natives; they were made of branches arched over in the form of a
bird-cage, and thatched with grass and the bark of the drooping tea-tree.
The place where we encamped had been frequently used by the natives for
the same purpose. Our attention was particularly attracted by a large
heap of chaff, from which the natives appeared to have taken the seeds.
This grass was, however, very different from the panicum, of the seeds of
which the natives of the Gwyder River make a sort of bread; and which
there forms the principal food of the little Betshiregah (Melopsittacus
undulatus, GOULD).
The night was calm, clear, and cold.
The kites became most daring and impudent. Yesterday, I cleaned the fat
gizzard of a bustard to grill it on the embers, and the idea of the fat
dainty bit made my mouth water. But alas! whilst holding it in my hand, a
kite pounced down and carried it off, pursued by a dozen of his comrades,
eager to seize the booty.
We killed our little steer in the afternoon of the 10th, and the next day
we cut the meat into slices, and hung it out on a kangaroo net: the wind
was high, the sun warm, and our meat dried most perfectly. Whilst we were
in the midst of our work, some natives made their appearance. I held out
a branch as a sign of peace, when they ventured up to hold a parley,
though evidently with great suspicion. They were rather small, and the
tall ones were slim and lightly built. They examined Brown's hat, and
expressed a great desire to keep it. In order to make them a present, I
went to the tents to fetch some broken pieces of iron; and whilst I was
away, Brown, wishing to surprise them, mounted his horse, and commenced
trotting, which frightened them so much, that they ran away, and did not
come again. One of them had a singular weapon, neatly made, and
consisting of a long wooden handle, with a sharp piece of iron fixed in
at the end, like a lancet. The iron most probably had been obtained from
the Malays who annually visit the gulf for trepang. Some of their spears
were barbed.
July 12.--The meat had dried so well, that I started this morning; having
completed the operation of drying in rather more than a day. It was, of
course, necessary to spread the meat out for several days, to prevent its
becoming mildewed. This was done every day after arriving at our
camping-place.
Our killing camp was about five miles south-west from the Van Diemen; and
we travelled in the same direction about eight miles farther, through a
most beautiful country, consisting of an open forest timbered with the
box-tree, apple-gum, and white-gum; it was well grassed, and abundantly
supplied with water. We crossed a small river with a course west by
north; it had a broad sandy bed, numerous pools of water, and steep
banks: the latter were covered with Sarcocephalus and drooping tea-trees.
I called it the "Gilbert," after my unfortunate companion. Five miles
farther, we came to a fine creek, at which we encamped. Its water-holes
were surrounded by the Nelumbiums of the Mackenzie, and by a fine yellow
Ipomoea, with larger flowers than that described as growing at the
Mitchell. We gathered a considerable quantity of Nelumbium seeds, which
were very palatable, and, when roasted and pounded, made a most excellent
substitute for coffee.
July 13.--Our horses had enjoyed the green feed round the lagoons near
our killing camp, so much, that they returned to it during the night, and
caused a delay until noon, when we resumed our journey. The first part of
the stage was over fine well-watered forest land. We crossed two creeks,
with good water-holes, in one of which was a fishing weir. The country to
the south of the last creek changed to a succession of plains of various
sizes, extending mostly to the westward, and very open undulations
scattered over with rather stunted trees of Grevillea mimosoides, G.
ceratophylla, Terminalia, Bauhinia, and Balfouria? an apocynaceous tree.
And again we passed over box and apple-gum flats, which, by their rich
verdure, refreshed the eye tired with the uniform yellow colour of the
dry grass, in which the whole country was clothed. We saw the bush fires
of the natives every where around us; and many large tracts which had
been recently burnt. The sun was getting very low, and my patients were
very tired, and yet no water was to be seen. Cumuli, which had been
gradually collecting from one o'clock in the afternoon, cast their
shadows over the forest, and deceived the eye into the belief that the
desired creek was before us. At last, however, to our infinite
satisfaction, we entered into a scrub, formed of low stunted irregularly
branched tea-trees, where we found a shallow water-course, which
gradually enlarged into deep holes, which were dry, with the exception of
one which contained just a sufficient supply of muddy water to form a
stepping-stone for the next stage. Our latitude was 17 degrees 19 minutes
36 seconds.
July 14.--We travelled about eleven miles S.S.W. to latitude 17 degrees
28 minutes 11 seconds, over an immense box-flat, interrupted only by some
plains and by two tea-tree creeks; the tea-trees were stunted and scrubby
like those of our last stage. At the second creek we passed an old
camping place of the natives, where we observed a hedge of dry branches,
and, parallel to it, and probably to the leeward, was a row of fire
places. It seemed that the natives sat and lay between the fires and the
row of branches. There were, besides, three huts of the form of a
bee-hive, closely thatched with straw and tea-tree bark. Their only
opening was so small, that a man could scarcely creep through it; they
were four or five feet high, and from eight to ten feet in diameter.
[A hut of this description, but of smaller dimensions, is described by
Capt. King, at the North Goulburn Island.--King's Voyage, vol. I. p. 72.]
One of the huts was storied, like those I noticed on the banks of the
Lynd. It would appear that the natives make use of these tents during the
wet and cold season, but encamp in the open air in fine weather.
A brown wallabi and a bustard were shot, which enabled us to save some of
our meat. We encamped at a fine long water-hole, in the bed of a scrubby
creek.
July 15.--Mr. Roper's illness increased so much that he could not even
move his legs, and we were obliged to carry him from one place to
another; I therefore, stopt here two days, to allow him to recover a
little.
July 17.--We travelled about ten miles south 55 degrees west over an
almost uninterrupted box and Melaleuca flat, free from melon-holes and
grassy swamps, but full of holes, into which our horses and bullocks sank
at every step, which sadly incommoded our wounded companions.
About two miles and a half from our camp, we came to the Caron River
(Corners Inlet), which deserved rather the name of a large creek. Its
sandy and occasionally rocky bed, was dry; but parallel lines of Nymphaea
lagoons extended on both sides. The drooping tea-tree was, as usual, very
beautiful. We skirted a tea-tree scrub, without a watercourse, about two
miles and a half south of the "Caron," and passed some undulations, with
Grevillea forest. To the south-west of these undulations, we came to a
chain of lagoons; from which several white cranes and a flight of the
black Ibis rose. Brown shot one of the latter, which, when picked and
cleaned for cooking, weighed three pounds and a half; it was very fat,
and proved to be excellent eating. Cytherea shells were again found,
which showed that the salt water was not very far off.
Charley gave a characteristic description of this country, when he
returned from a ride in search of game: "It is a miserable country!
nothing to shoot at, nothing to look at, but box trees and anthills." The
box-forest was, however, very open and the grass was good; and the
squatter would probably form a very different opinion of its merits. When
we were preparing to start in the morning some natives came to look at
us; but they kept within the scrub, and at a respectable distance.
July 18.--We travelled south-west by west, over a succession of plains,
and of undulating Grevillea forest, which changed into tea-tree thickets,
and stunted tea-tree scrubs, on a sandy soil with Salicornia, Binoe's
Trichinium, and several other salt plants. At about five miles from the
camp, we came to salt-water inlets, densely surrounded by mangroves, and
with sandy flats extending along their banks, encrusted with salt.
Charley rode through the dry mangrove scrub, and came on a sandy beach
with the broad Ocean before him. We had a long way to go to the east and
S.S.E. to get out of the reach of the brackish water, and came at last to
grassy swamps, with a good supply of fresh water. We encamped in lat. 17
degrees 41 minutes 52 seconds; about ten miles south by west from our
last camp. Charley was remarkably lucky to-day, in catching an emu, and
shooting six teals, a brown wallabi of the Mitchell, and a kangaroo with
a broad nail at the end of its tail. Brown also shot a sheldrake and a
Malacorhynchus membranaceus. During the time that we were travelling to
the southward, we had a north-east wind during the forenoon, which in the
afternoon veered round to the east and south. Such a change, in a
locality like ours, was very remarkable; because, in the neighbourhood of
the sea, it was natural to expect a sea breeze, instead of which,
however, the breeze was off the land. The cause can only be attributed to
a peculiar formation of the country south and south-east of the gulf.
July 19.--We travelled seven miles and a half due south, through a
succession of stunted tea-tree thickets and tea-tree forests, in which
the little bread-tree of the Lynd was common. We passed two creeks with
rocky beds, the one with salt water, and the other fresh. The natives had
been digging here, either for shells or roots. We came to a fine river
with salt water about two hundred and fifty or three hundred yards broad,
with low banks fringed with stunted mangroves. The well beaten foot-path
and the numerous fire-places of the natives, proved how populous the
country must be. In following a foot-path, we came to some large lagoons,
but containing very little water; the natives had been digging in the dry
parts, perhaps for the roots of Nymphaea. We encamped at one of them in
lat. 17 degrees 49 minutes.
The country along the river was an open box-forest. Natives cooeed around
us; and we saw a man and his gin, and farther on two others busily
occupied in burning the grass. When Charley came to the lagoon he saw a
black boy, who immediately retreated out of sight. Two straw-necked
Ibises and seven ducks were shot. Mr. Roper had suffered much by the long
rides of the last stages; but his health was improving, notwithstanding.
The Nonda tree had disappeared north of the Van Diemen, and the emu here
feeds on the fruit of the little Severn tree, which is so excessively
bitter, as to impart its quality to the meat, and even to the gizzard and
the very marrow.
As we approached the salt water, the various species of Eucalyptus, with
the exception of the box, disappeared, and various species of tea-tree
(Melaleuca) took their place; they grew even on the sands with
incrustations of salt, and gave way only to the mangroves, which were
bathed by the brine itself.
We now commenced collecting the gum of the broad-leaved Terminalia of the
upper Lynd, and boiled it for Mr. Roper, who liked it very much.
We recognised one of the kites (Milvus isiurus), which had followed us
from our last killing camp, down to the head of the gulf.
July 20.--This morning, the bullocks had strayed farther than usual, and,
whilst we were waiting for them, some natives came to the rocks opposite
our camp; and one of them beckoned me to come over to him. They had been
observing our camp last night, for some time after the rising of the
moon, and I had caused Brown to discharge his gun, in order to drive them
away. They did not, however, trouble us then any farther, but encamped at
a neighbouring lagoon; showing evidently that they expected no harm from
us. When the bold fellow invited me to come over to him, I hesitated at
first, as they might have disturbed us when loading our bullocks; but, as
the animals did not appear, I took my reconnoitring bag with some iron
nose rings, and made Brown follow me at some distance with the double
barrelled gun, and went over to them. After much hesitation, four of them
approached me. I made them presents, which gained their confidence, and
they began to examine and admire my dress, my watch, etc. It was singular
that the natives were always most struck with our hats. We made them
understand where we came from and whither we were going, and it seemed
that they understood us better than we could understand them. When the
bullocks arrived, we returned to our camp, accompanied by the natives,
who had lost all fear after the tokens of friendship they had received:
and when we started, they joined our train and guided us on their
foot-path (Yareka) along the salt water creek (Yappar.) They very much
admired our horses and bullocks, and particularly our kangaroo dog. They
expressed their admiration by a peculiar smacking or clacking with their
tongue or lips. The fine river changed very soon into a salt water creek,
coming from south by west. We passed some very beautiful rocky lagoons
under the abrupt terminations of low sandstone hills, which were openly
timbered at the top, but surrounded by thickets of the little Severn
tree. The box-tree grew on the flats which separated the ridges from the
creek, with the small bread-tree, the bloodwood and pandanus. As the
Mangrove disappeared, the drooping tea-tree took its place. Several rocky
bars crossed the "Yappar," which seemed to be the name by which the
natives called it; but only one was broad enough to allow us to cross
safely with our horses and bullocks. Here our black friends took their
leave of us; they seemed very desirous of showing us their whole country,
and of introducing us to their tribe, which was probably very numerous.
After crossing the creek in lat. 17 degrees 54 minutes or 55 minutes, and
longit. 140 degrees 45 minutes approx., we travelled due west, and came
at once into an undulating hilly country. The hills were composed of
iron-sandstone; their summits were generally very openly timbered with
apple-gum and a new white-barked tree; but their bases were covered with
thickets of the little Severn tree. The intervening flats bore either a
box-tree with a short trunk branching off immediately above the ground;
or a middle-sized tea-tree, with a lanceolate leaf, or thickets of
stunted tea-tree. We travelled full thirteen miles without water, or any
decided water-course. We passed several dry water-holes shaded by the
broad-leaved Terminalia; and saw many Acacias twenty-five and thirty feet
in height, with a slender trunk, and an elegant drooping foliage: it very
much resembled the Acacia of Expedition Range; but the drooping habit and
more distant leaflets of its bipinnate leaves, showed at once their
difference. We had travelled five hours and a half, and Mr. Roper rode up
to me several times, to complain of his inability to go any farther. I
encouraged him, however, and at sunset, we reached a creek, but it was
dry; and, although we travelled until dark along its winding course, and
saw many deep holes on its flats, and although fresh burnings showed that
the natives had been there, yet no water was to be found, and we were
obliged to encamp without it. We, therefore, hobbled and tethered all the
horses, and watched the bullocks. Charley followed the creek for some
distance in search of water, but returned without finding any.
July 21.--When Charley was riding after our hobbled horses, he came, at
about two miles N. E., from our camp, to another watercourse, with well
filled rocky water-holes. When he brought this welcome intelligence, we
immediately loaded our bullocks, and moved to these water-holes; on which
it appeared some natives had encamped very lately. The country around was
broken and scrubby; but in general it was well-grassed, with a sound
soil. Our latitude was 17 degrees 52 minutes 53 seconds.
The wind, during the last two days, was from the southward in the
forenoon, and from the westward in the afternoon. The nights were calm
and clear, but very cold.
Mr. Calvert had happily recovered so much as to be able to resume his
duties; and, notwithstanding the fatigues of the last long stage, Mr.
Roper had slightly improved.
July 22.--Last night was beautifully clear and calm, until midnight, when
a cold south wind set in, which made us all shiver with cold. I had not
felt it so much since the night of Mr. Gilbert's death, nor since we left
the upper Lynd and the table land of the Burdekin. The wind was equally
strong in the morning from the south-east, and veered in the course of
the day to the south and south-west.
We travelled about eight miles and a half W.N.W. to lat. 17 degrees 50
minutes 28 seconds, at first passing over a scrubby country, which
changed into box flats when we approached the waterless creek, at which
we encamped on the night of the 20th. To the westward of this creek, box
flats alternated with tea-tree thickets; and opened at last into a large
plain, which we crossed at its southern termination, where it was three
miles broad; it appeared boundless to the northward. Plains of the same
character had been dimly seen through the open forest to the northward,
for some time before we came to the one we crossed. This was not covered
with the stiff grass, nor the dry wind-grass of the plains north of the
Staaten; but it bore a fine crop of tender grasses, which rendered them
infinitely more valuable for the pasture of horses and cattle. At the
west side of the plain, we found a chain of fine long lagoons, surrounded
by Polygonum, and apparently well stocked with fish.
Charley and Brown caught an emu, with the assistance of the dog, which
became every day more valuable to us.
Since Mr. Gilbert's death, the arrangements of our camp have been
changed. I now select an entirely open space, sufficiently distant from
any scrub or thicket, even if we have to go a considerable distance for
water. Our pack-saddles are piled in two parallel lines close together,
facing that side from which a covered attack of the natives might be
expected. We sleep behind this kind of bulwark, which of itself would
have been a sufficient barrier against the spears of the natives. Tired
as we generally are, we retire early to our couch; Charley usually takes
the first watch, from half-past six to nine o'clock; Brown, Calvert, and
Phillips follow in rotation; whilst I take that portion of the night most
favourable for taking the altitude. John Murphy has his watch from five
to six. We generally tethered three horses, and kept one bridled; and,
with these arrangements, we slept as securely and soundly as ever; for I
felt sure that we had nothing to fear, as long as our tinkling
bell-horse, and perhaps a second horse, was moving near us. The natives
considered our animals to be large dogs, and had frequently asked whether
they would bite (which I affirmed, of course); so that they themselves
furnished us with a protection, which otherwise I should not have thought
of inventing.
July 23.--When Charley returned this morning with the horses, he told me,
that a fine broad salt-water river was again before us. I kept,
therefore, at once to the southward, and feared that I should have to go
far in that direction before being able to ford it. After travelling
about two miles, we came in sight of it. It was broad and deep, with low
rocky banks. Salicornia grew along the small gullies into which the tide
flowed; some struggling stunted mangroves were on the opposite side; and
the plains along the right side of the river were occupied by a scanty
vegetation, consisting of Phyllanthus shrubs, scattered box, and the
raspberry-jam trees. We had travelled, however, more than a mile on its
bank, when we came to a broad rocky barrier or dam extending across the
river, over which a small stream of brackish water rippled, and, by means
of this, we crossed without difficulty. I now steered again north-west by
west, and passed at first some fine shady lagoons, and for the next six
miles, over an immense plain, apparently unlimited to the north and
north-east. At its west side we again found Polygonum lagoons, which were
swarming with ducks, (particularly Malacorhynchus membranaceus), and teal
(Querquedula). Box, raspberry-jam trees, and Acacia, (Inga moniliformis,
D.C.) formed a shady grove round these lagoons, which continued towards
the south-east. Their latitude was 17 degrees 49 minutes 35 seconds.
Smoke was visible in every part of the horizon. Charley, Brown, and John,
shot fourteen ducks, and increased this number towards evening to
forty-six ducks, five recurvirostris, one small red-shank, and two
spoon-bills: the latter were particularly fat, and, when ready for the
spit, weighed better than three pounds; the black ducks weighed a pound
and three-quarters. The Malacorhynchus was small, but in good condition,
and the fat seemed to accumulate particularly in the skin of the neck.
The south wind, as usual, visited us again last night, and made it
exceedingly cold. This intense cold is probably owing to the large
plains, over which the wind passes. We were never so much troubled by
swarms of flies, as during the last two days; it was impossible to get
rid of them by any means.
July 24.--We travelled about six miles north-west to latitude 17 degrees
48 minutes, and crossed several plains separated by belts of open forest,
and came to a fine salt-water river; the banks were steep but not high,
and stunted mangroves grew on the water's edge: the raspberry-jam tree
covered the approaches to the river. Salicornia and Binoe's Trichinium
grew round the dry ponds, and along the small water-courses, into which
the tide flowed. We found a good crossing place at a fishery of the
natives; who--to judge by the number of their tracks through the soft
mud, and by the two large camps on both sides of the river, which were
covered with fish-bones--must be very numerous. We continued our journey
for about a mile and a half from the river, and came to some grassy
fresh-water lagoons, although the Salicornias at first made me think they
were brackish.
Shortly after starting this morning, we saw a brood of thirteen emus, on
the plain which we were about to cross. John, Charley, and the dog
pursued them, and killed the old one; which, however, severely wounded
poor Spring in the neck. When we came up to them with the train, the
twelve young ones had returned in search of their mother; upon which
Brown gave chase with Spring, and killed two. This was the greatest sport
we ever had had on our journey. Upon making our camp, we cut part of
their meat into slices, and dried it on green hide ropes; the bones,
heads, and necks were stewed: formerly, we threw the heads, gizzards, and
feet away, but necessity had taught us economy; and, upon trial, the feet
of young emus was found to be as good and tender as cow-heel. I collected
some salt on the dry salt ponds, and added it to our stew; but my
companions scarcely cared for it, and almost preferred the soup without
it. The addition, however, rendered the soup far more savoury, at least
to my palate.
July 25.--We travelled N. 60 degrees W. and, at two miles, reached a
salt-water creek, which we crossed at a fishing place of the natives.
Soon afterwards we came on other shallow half dry salt-water creeks, the
dry parts of which were covered with thick incrustations of salt, some of
which we collected. Our bullocks were very seriously bogged in crossing
one of them. After passing this intricate meshwork of boggy channels, we
entered upon an immense plain, with patches of forest appearing here and
there in the distance. It was well grassed, but its sandy patches were
covered with Salicornia. This plant abounded particularly where the plain
sloped into the system of salt-water creeks; the approaches of which were
scattered over with the raspberry-jam tree. A west-north-west and west
course led me constantly to salt water; and we saw a large expanse of it
in the distance, which Charley, to whose superior sight all deference was
paid, considered to be the sea. I passed some low stunted forest, in
which a small tree was observed, with stiff pinnate leaves and a round
fruit of the size of a small apple, with a rough stone, and a very
nauseous rind, at least in its unripe state. To the westward of this belt
of forest, we crossed extensive marshes covered with tender, though dry
grass, and surrounded by low Ironstone ridges, openly timbered with
stunted silver-leaved Ironbark, several white gums, and Hakea lorea, R.
Br. in full blossom. We had not seen the latter for a long time, although
Grevillea mimosoides, with which it was generally associated, had been
our constant companion.
Beyond the ridges, we came again on salt-water creeks, and saw sheets of
sand, which looked like the sea from the distance. I turned to the south
and even south-east; and, finding no water, we were compelled to encamp
without it, after a very long and fatiguing stage. Whilst we were
occupied in tethering and hobbling our horses, and eating our supper,
Charley, whose watch it was, allowed the bullocks to stray in search of
water, and the next morning he was so long absent whilst looking for
them, that my exhausted companions became impatient; and I thought it
advisable to send them back to our last camp with as many pack-horses as
we could muster, myself remaining alone to guard the rest of our
property. They found three of the bullocks on the plain, in the most
wretched condition, and met Charley returning with four others, which had
made an immense round along all the salt-water creeks. My companions,
however, were fortunate enough to find a fresh water lagoon about three
miles west of our last camp. John and Charley returned after moon-rise,
with three pack-horses, and arrived at my camp at a quarter to seven in
the morning. I had been in a state of the most anxious suspense about the
fate of our bullocks, and was deeply thankful to the Almighty when I
heard that they were all safe. I had suffered much from thirst, having
been forty-eight hours without water, and which had been increased by a
run of two miles after my horse, which attempted to follow the others;
and also from a severe pain in the head, produced by the impatient
brute's jumping with its hobbled forefeet on my forehead, as I was lying
asleep with the bridle in my hand; but, after drinking three quarts of
cold tea which John had brought with him, I soon recovered, and assisted
to load our horses with the remainder of our luggage, when we returned to
join our companions. The weather was very hot during the day, but a cool
breeze moved over the plains, and the night, as usual, was very cold.
Yesterday morning, John and Brown rode down to a hollow to look for
water, whilst we were waiting for the bullocks. At their return, they
stated that they had come to two salt-water creeks, all full of salt, of
which they brought several lumps. I started immediately with Mr. Calvert
and Brown, and, sure enough! I found the broad bed of a creek one mass of
the purest and whitest salt. Lumps of it had crystallized round stems of
grasses which the wind had blown into the water. A little higher up the
creek, a large pool of water was full of these lumps, and in less than
ten minutes we collected more than sufficient to supply us for the rest
of the journey. Ship loads of pure salt could have been collected here in
a very short time, requiring nothing but drying and housing, until it
could be removed. Its appearance was quite new and wonderful to me, who
had been so busily employed in scraping the incrustations full of mud
from the dry beds of the creeks.
Yesterday, Brown shot a black-winged pelican; the pectoral muscles and
the extremities of which proved good eating; but the inside and the fat
were of a nauseously fishy taste. Charley shot a bustard, and John a
black ibis. The smoke of the Black-fellows' fires was seen to the
southward. The fresh grass of recent burnings extended over all the
plains, and even near our waterle encampment, where its bright verdure
made us believe that we approached a fresh water swamp.
July 27.--I stopped at this camp to allow our cattle to recover from
their fatigue; intending afterwards to proceed up the river until I came
into the zone of fresh water, which we had left, and then to continue my
course to the west and north-west. During our stay in this place, Mr.
Calvert found a piece of pack canvass, rolled round some utensils of the
natives.
July 28.--We travelled about ten miles south by east; but were soon
compelled by the salt-water creeks to leave the river, which seemed to
come from south-south-east. We crossed several mangrove creeks, one of
which contained a weir formed by many rows of dry sticks. These creeks
were too boggy to be forded in any part where the tide reached, and we
had to follow them up for several miles, until their beds divided into
lagoons. Here the drooping tea-tree re-appeared, which I considered to
indicate the presence of fresh water, at least for a part of the year. I
found them, however, at times, on salt-water rivers, not on the level of
the salt water, but high on the banks within the reach of the freshes
during the rainy season. In turning again towards the river, we crossed a
large plain, from which pillars of smoke were seen rising above the green
belt of raspberry-jam trees which covered the approaches to the river.
After passing some forest of Moreton Bay ash, bloodwood, clustered box,
Acacia (Inga moniliformis), and a few Bauhinias, we came to another
salt-water creek, with a sandy bed and deposits of fine salt. Very narrow
flats extended along both sides of the creek, and rose by water-torn
slopes into large treeless plains. The slopes were, as usual, covered
with raspberry-jam trees. I saw smoke to the south-ward, and, on
proceeding towards it, we came to a fine lagoon of fresh water in the bed
of the creek.
July 29.--We travelled about five miles and a half south-south-east up
the creek, and encamped in latitude 18 degrees 2 minutes. The character
of the country was the same. When about two miles from our last camp, we
came upon a tribe of natives fishing in a water-hole, near which a
considerable quantity of large and small fish was heaped. The men made a
tremendous noise, which frightened our bullocks, and hastened to the
place where their gins were. The latter, among whom was a remarkably tall
one, decamped at our approach. A fine shell of Dolium was in their camp,
which we passed through. After we had passed by, the natives followed us;
upon which I returned towards them, and hung a nose ring on the branch of
a small tree. This sign of friendly disposition on my side, emboldened
them to approach me and demand a parley. I, therefore, dismounted, and,
accompanied by Charley, divided some empty tin canisters among them, with
which they seemed highly satisfied. They were altogether fine men. Three
or four old men with grey beards were amongst them; and they introduced a
young handsome lad to me, with a net on his head and a quill through his
nose, calling him "Yappar." He was probably a youth of the Yappar tribe
who had been sent forward as a messenger to inform them of our having
passed that country. Seeing my watch, they pointed to the sun; and
appeared to be well acquainted with the use of my gun.
Further up the creek, we again saw some storied gunyas of the natives.
July 30.--We travelled about ten miles west by south, over an immense
plain, with here and there a solitary tree, or a small patch of forest.
It was full of melon-holes, and much resembled the plains of the
Condamine. Salicornia and Binoe's Trichinium were wanting. At the west
side of the plain, a green belt of forest stretched from north to south.
Before we entered into it, and into the valley of the creek, along which
it extended, we passed some open forest of stunted silver-leaved
Ironbark. On the slopes of the plains we met, as usual, the raspberry-jam
tree thickets, and on the flats and hollows along the creek, the
clustered box; whilst, on the banks of the creek, grew the broad-leaved
Terminalia and Acacia (Inga moniliformis). Following the creek up about
half a mile, we found a fine rocky water-hole. The rock was a clayey
Ironstone.
When entering upon the plain in the morning, we saw two emus on a patch
of burnt grass. Brown and Charley gave chase to them; but Brown's horse
stumbled and threw him, and unfortunately broke the stock of the double
barrelled fowling piece, and bent the barrels. Spring took hold of the
emu, which dragged him to the lagoon we had left, pursued by Charley on
foot. The emu plunged into the water, and, having given Spring and
Charley a good ducking, made its escape, notwithstanding its lacerated
thigh. Three harlequin pigeons, and six rose-breasted cockatoos (Cocatua
Eos, GOULD.), were shot on the plains.
The weather was delightful; a fine breeze from the east cooled the air.
July 31.--We made about ten miles due west, the latitude of our camp
being 18 degrees 6 minutes 42 seconds. After passing some Ironstone
ridges, covered with stunted silver-leaved Ironbark, we entered upon a
large plain, from which we saw some low ranges to the south, and smoke to
the W. 20 degrees S. I followed this course about seven miles; but the
smoke was still very distant, and, perceiving a belt of forest to the
westward, I took that direction, passed the head of a small creek which
went to the southward, crossed some box forest and Ironbark ridges, and
came into an open country, with alternating plains and ridges, which,
even at the present season, was very pretty, and must, when clothed in
the garments of Spring, be very beautiful. The creek which we had met at
the east side of the forest, had swept round the ridges, and was now
again before us, pursuing a north-west course. A fine plain extended
along it, on which I observed Acacia Farnesiana of Darling Downs, the
grass of the Isaacs, and several grasses of the Suttor. The holes of the
creek were shaded by large Terminalias, and by a white gum, with slightly
drooping foliage of a pleasing green colour. We followed the creek down,
and soon came again to Ironstone ridges.
I had sent Charley forward to look for water, and, when he joined us
again, he told me that there was a water-hole, but that natives, for the
greater part gins, were encamped on it. I could not help taking
possession of it, as there were none besides, to our knowledge; and our
bullocks and horses were fatigued by a long stage. I, therefore, rode up
to it alone; the gins had decamped, but a little urchin remained, who was
probably asleep when his mother went. He cried bitterly, as he made his
way through the high grass, probably in search for his mother. Thinking
it prudent to tie an iron ring to his neck, that his parents might see we
were peaceably inclined, I caught the little fellow, who threw his stick
at me, and defended himself most manfully when I laid hold of him. Having
dismissed him with an angry slap on his fat little posteriors, he walked
away crying, but keeping hold of the iron ring: his mother came down from
the ridge to meet him, laughing loud, and cheering with jokes.
I observed ironstone pebbles, and large pieces of a fine grained flaggy
sandstone on the first plains we crossed; the sandstone was excellent to
sharpen our knives.
CHAPTER XI
SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES--NATIVE CARVING--AUDACITY OF THE
NATIVES OVERAWED--THE ALBERT, OR MAET SUYKER--NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE
OF A DEAD EMU--BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT--NATIVE DEVICE FOR
TAKING EMUS--BEAMES'S BROOK--THE NICHOLSON--RECONNOITRE BY NIGHT--SMITH'S
CREEK--THE MARLOW.
August 1.--We travelled about seven miles west by north. Silver-leaved
Ironbark ridges, of a dreary aspect, and covered with small shining brown
iron pebbles, alternating with small plains and box-flats, extended
generally to the northward. Some of the hills were open at their summits,
timbered with apple-gum, and covered with white ant-hills; their bases
were surrounded with thickets of the Severn tree. We encamped at a fine
Nymphaea lagoon, in the rich shade of a white drooping gum tree. A large
but dry creek was near us to the westward. The grass was excellent.
August 2.--We travelled twelve miles west-north-west, over a fine
box-flat, crossed a good sized creek, about five miles from the camp,
and, to the westward of it, passed over seven miles of Ironbark ridges.
We descended from them into the valley of a creek fringed with the
white-gum tree, and followed it down for about three miles before we
found water. We encamped at a good water-hole, at the foot of the ridges,
in latitude 18 degrees 0 minutes 42 seconds. Brown and Charley, who had
gone two miles lower down, told me that they had found salt-water, and
deposits of very fine salt. Many lagoons were on the flats, surrounded by
Polygonums, and frequented by ducks, spoonbills, and various aquatic
birds. They had shot, however, only one teal and a spoonbill. In
travelling down the creek, we frequently started wallabies. Geophaps
plumifera was very frequent on the Ironbark ridges. A cormorant with
white breast and belly, and the rose cockatoo were shot; the former
tasted as well as a duck. Brown collected a good quantity of the gum of
Terminalia, and the seeds of the river bean, which made an excellent
coffee. The native bee was very abundant.
The natives seemed to have burned the grass systematically along every
watercourse, and round every water-hole, in order to have them surrounded
with young grass as soon as the rain sets in. These burnings were not
connected with camping places, where the fire is liable to spread from
the fire-places, and would clear the neighbouring ground. Long strips of
lately burnt grass were frequently observed extending for many miles
along the creeks. The banks of small isolated water-holes in the forest,
were equally attended to, although water had not been in either for a
considerable time. It is no doubt connected with a systematic management
of their runs, to attract game to particular spots, in the same way that
stockholders burn parts of theirs in proper seasons; at least those who
are not influenced by the erroneous notion, that burning the grass
injures the richness and density of the natural turf. The natives,
however, frequently burn the high and stiff grass, particularly along
shady creeks, with the intention of driving the concealed game out of it;
and we have frequently seen them watching anxiously, even for lizards,
when other game was wanting.
August 3.--We travelled, for the first two miles, N. 60 degrees W. over
scrubby ironstone ridges, and then entered upon a fine plain, from which
smoke was seen to the west and north-west. I chose the latter direction,
and passed over ironstone ridges covered with stunted silver-leaved
Ironbark; and a species of Terminalia, a small tree, with long spathulate
glaucous leaves, slightly winged seed-vessels, and with an abundance of
fine transparent eatable gum; of which John and Brown gathered a great
quantity. Some of the ridges were openly timbered with a rather stunted
white-gum tree, and were well grassed; but the grass was wiry and stiff.
At the end of our stage, about sixteen miles distant from our last camp,
we crossed some rusty-gum forest; and encamped at a fine water-hole in
the bed of a rocky creek, shaded by the white drooping gum, which seemed
to have taken the place of the flooded gum. Groves of Pandanus spiralis
grew along the creek, which ran to the north by east. All the small
watercourses we passed, inclined to the eastward. Charley found the shell
of a Cytherea on an old camping-place of the natives, which indicated our
approach to the salt water.
A native had carved a representation of the foot of an emu in the bark of
a gum-tree; and he had performed it with all the exactness of a good
observer. It was the first specimen of the fine arts we had witnessed in
our journey.
August 4.--We travelled about ten miles west-north-west, over scrubby
ridges, plains, and box-flats. In a patch of rusty-gum forest we found
Acacia equisetifolia, and the dwarf Grevillea of the upper Lynd in
blossom; the thyrsi of scarlet flowers of the latter were particularly
beautiful. As we entered into the plains, Binoe's Trichinium and
Salicornia re-appeared.
I steered towards the smoke of a Blackfellow's fire, which we saw rising
on the plains; the fire was attended to by a gin. Charley went forward to
examine a belt of trees visible in the distance; and John Murphy followed
a hollow in the plain, and succeeded in finding a fine lagoon, about half
a mile long, partly rocky and partly muddy, surrounded by Polygonums, and
fields of Salicornia. A few gum trees, and raspberry-jam trees grew
straggling around it; but no dry timber was to be found, and we had to
make a fire with a broken down half dried raspberry-jam tree. Our meat
bags were now empty, and it was necessary to kill another bullock,
although the spot was by no means favourable for the purpose. Natives
were around us, and we saw them climbing the neighbouring trees to
observe our proceedings. When Charley joined us, he stated that a fine
broad salt-water river was scarcely a quarter of a mile from the lagoon;
that he had seen a tribe of natives fishing, who had been polite enough
to make a sign that the water was not drinkable, when he stooped down to
taste it, but that freshwater was to be found in the direction of the
lagoon, at which we were encamped. No time was to be lost, and, as the
afternoon had advanced, we commenced operations immediately. Though the
bullock was young, and in excellent working condition, the incessant
travelling round the gulf had taken nearly all the fat out of him, and
there was scarcely enough left to fry his liver. At sunset, we saw the
natives approaching our camp, with loud vociferations, swinging their
spears, and poising and putting them into their wommalas. We immediately
saddled and mounted two of our horses, and discharged a pistol. The
latter stopped their noise at once; and some cowered down to the ground.
John and Charley rode slowly towards them; at first they tried to face,
and then to surround the horsemen; but John and Charley separated, and
threatened to cut them off from the river. As soon as they saw their
supposed danger, they ran to the river, plunged in, and crossed it. We
were very watchful during the night, but were not disturbed. Next
morning, natives passed at some distance, but showed no inclination to
molest us.
August 5.--We cut our meat into slices, and, although we were reduced in
number, we had become so expert, that we had finished a full sized
bullock by half past eleven, A. M. The process occupied four of us about
four hours and a half; John and Brown were employed in putting it out on
the kangaroo net to dry. The strong sea breeze dried it beautifully; but
it attracted much moisture again in the night, and was very moist when we
packed it into the bags at starting.
The sea breeze set in on the 4th at 11 o'clock, became very strong during
the afternoon, lessened at sunset, and died away about 9 o'clock, P. M.
when it became thick and foggy. This was the case on the 5th, 6th, and
7th, and was very regular.
August 6.--We left the large lagoon, which, as I was prevented from
making an observation, I supposed to be in latitude 17 degrees 47 minutes
v. 48 minutes, and followed the winding course of the river up to
latitude 17 degrees 57 minutes. The river, I am inclined to think, is the
Albert of Captain Stokes, and the Maet Suyker of the Dutch Navigators,
and its general course is from south-south-west, to north-north-east.
Plains, forest country, open scrub frequently broken by gullies,
alternated with each other. Several large and deep basins parallel to the
river, were dry. The rough-leaved fig tree, the white cedar, and a
stiff-leaved Ipomoea with pink blossoms, grew on its sandy banks; and
some low straggling mangroves at the water's edge. The day was far
advanced, and I became very anxious about our moist meat; and feared that
we should have to encamp without water. We saw burnt grass every where,
and logs were even still burning; and fresh water could not be very far
off, but yet we were unable to detect it. At last, I observed some trees,
of a fresher appearance than usual, beyond a small rise; and, riding up
to it, found a small water-hole surrounded by Polygonums: on examination,
it was found to contain only a very small quantity of water, yet what
remained was good. Charley, who returned afterwards, said that he had
been before at this water-hole, and had found a tribe of natives encamped
on it, one of whom lifted his spear against him, but his courage forsook
him upon observing Charley still riding towards him, when he and the
whole camp took to their heels, leaving a good supply of Convolvulus
roots, and of Terminalia gum behind them. We found shells of Cymbium and
Cytherea, an enormous waddie, which could have been wielded only by a
powerful arm, nets and various instruments for fishing, in their deserted
camp.
August 7.--I thought it advisable to stop here, and give our meat a fair
drying. The natives were not seen again. Charley and John took a ride to
procure some game, and came to a salt-water creek, which joined the river
about three miles from our camp; the river flowed in a very winding
course from the eastward. They found some good fresh water-holes, at the
head of the salt-water.
August 8.--We travelled about seven miles E.S.E. over plains and Ironbark
ridges. The approaches of the creek, broken by watercourses and gullies,
were covered with thickets of raspberry-jam trees. The rock cropped out
frequently in the creek, which was said to be very rocky lower down. The
salt-water Hibiscus, a species of Paritium, Adr. Juss. (Hibiscus
tiliaceus? Linn. D.C. Prodr. I. p. 454) grew round the water-holes. We
found the same little tree at the salt-water rivers on the west coast of
the gulf, and at Port Essington. I had formerly seen it at the sea coast
of Moreton Bay; its bark is tough and fibrous, and the heart-wood is
brown with a velvety lustre.
August 9.--When Charley returned with the horses, he told us, that, when
he was sitting down to drink at a water-hole about three miles up the
creek, ten emus came to the other side of the water; keeping himself
quiet, he took a careful aim, and shot one dead; then mounting his horse
immediately, he pursued the others, and approaching them very near,
succeeded in shooting another. He broke the wings of both and concealed
them under water. It is a singular custom of the natives, that of
breaking the wings upon killing an emu; as the wings could only slightly
assist the animal in making its escape, should it revive. But in
conversation with Brown as to the possibility of one of the emus having
escaped, he said very seriously: "Blackfellow knows better than white
fellow; he never leaves the emu without breaking a wing. Blackfellows
killed an emu once, and went off intending to call their friends to help
them to eat, and when they came back, they looked about, looked about,
but there was no emu; the emu was gone--therefore the Blackfellows always
broke the wings of the emus they killed afterwards." This was, however,
very probably one of Brown's yarns, made up for the occasion.
I sent Mr. Calvert and Charley to fetch the game, whilst we loaded the
bullocks, and by the time they returned, we were ready to start. The emus
were fine large birds, but not fat; this season seemed to be unfavourable
for them. When we came out into the plain, we saw the smoke of the
natives to the southward, and I steered for it, supposing that they were
either near the river, or at all events not far from fresh water. After
two miles travelling, we crossed another creek with fine Polygonum
water-holes, and, emerging from it into a second plain, we saw a flock of
emus in the distance. Chase was given to them, and with the assistance of
Spring, one was caught. Loaded with three emus, we travelled over a
succession of plains, separated by narrow belts of timber, mostly of-box,
bloodwood, and tea-tree. The plains were broken by irregular melon-holes,
which rendered our progress slow and fatiguing. We came to Ironbark
ridges, and to the very spot where the natives had been burning the
grass, but no watercourse, nor lagoon was seen. Brown rode farther to the
southward, and observed the tracks of the natives in that direction, but
found nothing but box-tree flats. I sent Charley forward to the westward,
and followed slowly in the same direction; night overtook us, when we
were crossing a large plain, but Charley had lighted a large fire, which
guided us, and made us believe that he had found water. He was indeed at
the steep banks of the river Albert, but it was still salt. We hobbled
and tethered all the horses, and watched the bullocks. Fortunately we had
provided ourselves with some water, which allowed half a pint to every
man, so that we felt the inconvenience of a waterless camp less than
formerly. Besides, we had fresh meat, which made a great difference in
our desire for water. It was a beautiful night, and even the dew was
wanting, which had been such a hindrance to drying our meat during the
previous nights. During my watch, I seated myself on one of the
prominences of the steep banks, and watched the loud splashings of
numerous large fish which momentarily disturbed the tranquillity of the
mirror-like surface of the water. Brown had found a bar across the river,
and, on examination it proved perfectly dry during low water, and allowed
us to cross, after having brought our bullocks and horses down the steep
banks, which, however, was not effected without great difficulty. We had
most fortunately hit the very spot where such a crossing was possible.
Brown saw a great number of fine fish in the river, which he called
"Taylors." The natives had been here frequently: the grass had been
recently burnt, and fish bones indicated this as one of their habitual
camping places. We could not, however, discover where they quenched their
thirst. I sent Charley forward in a north-west direction to look for
water. When we came out into the plains which stretched along both sides
of the river as far as the eye could reach, we saw smoke very near us on
the right. I went towards it, until I found that it rose on the opposite
side of the river we had just crossed; Brown, however, detected a pool of
slightly brackish water in a deep creek at a short distance from its
junction with the river. It was too boggy for our cattle to approach, but
it allowed us to quench our own thirst. We now re-entered the plains, and
followed the track of Charley, who soon returned with the pleasing
intelligence that he had found some fine water-holes. These were in the
bed of a creek, surrounded by a band of forest composed of box,
raspberry-jam trees, and the broad-leaved Terminalia, the fruit of which
was eaten by the black cockatoo. The slopes of the water-holes were steep
and boggy, and one of our bullocks was so exhausted that he slipped on
the steep banks, rolled into the water, and got so severely bogged, that
we were compelled to kill him, after trying everything in our power to
extricate him. On the 12th August we cut him up. The night, however, was
very foggy with heavy dew, which prevented the meat from drying. The
miserably exhausted state of the animal had rendered the meat very flabby
and moist, and it not only dried badly, but was liable to taint and to
get fly-blown.
August 13.--We had a fine sea-breeze from the northward, which dried the
outside of the meat well enough, but not the inside, so that it became in
many parts so putrid that I had to throw them away, although we saved a
good deal by splitting the puffed pieces, and exposing the inside to the
air.
The natives had surrounded the water-hole on which we encamped with a
barricade or hedge of dry sticks, leaving only one opening to allow the
emus to approach the water. Near this the natives probably kept
themselves concealed and waited for the emus; which in these parts were
remarkably numerous. On the 11th, John, Charley, and Brown, rode down
three birds, and, on the 14th, they obtained four more, two of which were
killed by John Murphy, who rode the fleetest horse and was the lightest
weight. The possibility of riding emus down, clearly showed in what
excellent condition our horses were. Even our bullocks although
foot-weary upon arriving at the camp, recovered wonderfully, and played
about like young steers in the grassy shady bed of the creek, lifting
their tails, scratching the ground with their fore feet, and shaking
their horns at us, as if to say, we'll have a run before you catch us.
The latitude of these water-holes was 18 degrees 4 minutes 27 seconds,
and they were about nine miles from the crossing place of the river,
which I calculated to be in longitude 139 degrees 20 minutes (appr.). The
plains were covered with flocks of small white cockatoos, (Cocatua
sanguinea, GOULD.) which Mr. Gilbert had mentioned as having been found
in Port Essington: their cry was rather plaintive, and less unmelodious
than the scream of the large cockatoo; nor were they so shy and wary,
particularly when approaching the water.
August 15.--Our beasts were so heavily laden with the meat of two
bullocks, that I found it rather difficult to carry the additional meat
of the emus. We, however, divided every emu into four parts--the chest,
the rump, and the two thighs--and suspended each of the latter to one of
the four hooks of a packsaddle; the remaining parts were carried on our
horses.
We travelled about eight miles north-north-west, over a succession of
plains, interrupted by some watercourses, and a good sized creek. At the
end of the day's stage, we found a small pool of water in a little creek
which we had followed down. According to Charley's account, salt-water
existed a mile lower down. Though our arrival at the camp was very late,
we set immediately to work, and cut up the four emus, which I put on
ropes and branches to dry. Fortunately, a cold dry south-east wind set
in, which very much assisted us in the operation of drying. The sea
breeze was strong, as usual, during the day; clouds gathered very
suddenly about 11 o'clock, P. M. to the southward and south-east, and
rose very quickly with a strong south-east wind; they passed as quickly
as they came; when the wind ceased. Another mass of clouds formed, and
rose quite as suddenly, and, having passed, the sky became quite clear,
and a cold strong wind set in from the south-east, which lasted for the
next two days, and rendered the nights of the 16th and 17th August cold,
dry, and dewless.
We had forgotten to drive our bullocks to the water, which they had
passed not five yards off, and in sight of which they had been unloaded;
the poor brutes, however, had not the instinct to find it, and they
strayed back. Charley started after them the same night, and went at once
to our old camp, supposing that the bullocks had taken that direction;
but they had not done so; they had wandered about seven miles from the
camp, without having found water.
August 16.--We travelled about twelve miles west-north-west, first over
plains, but afterwards, and for the greater part of the stage, over
openly timbered well-grassed box-flats, which seemed to bound the plains
to the southward; they were drained by no watercourse, but contained many
melon-holes. I changed my westerly course a little more to the northward,
and again crossed a succession of plains, separated by hollows. These
hollows were covered with thickets of small trees, principally
raspberry-jam trees; and contained many dry water-holes, either in
regular chains or scattered. They, no doubt, formed the heads of creeks;
as we invariably came on decided watercourses whenever we followed
hollows of this character down to the northward. After sunset, we came to
a dry creek, and were compelled to encamp without water. We took care,
however, to watch our bullocks, and hobble and tether our horses, which
enabled us to start early in the morning of the 17th, when we followed
the creek about seven miles north-east, and there found some very fine
water-holes within its bed, in latitude 17 degrees 51 minutes, at which
we encamped, to allow our cattle to recover; for they had had very little
water during the two last days. Smoke was seen to the north-west, north,
and north-east. Charley shot two more emus, and I felt the loss of our
bullock very much, as it became difficult to carry the additional meat,
which, however, was too valuable to be wasted or thrown away. Although we
had followed the creek for seven miles, we did not find it joined by any
of those hollows we had crossed the day before; and it would appear that
the intervening plains extended far to the north-ward, and that the
hollows and creeks converged only very gradually towards each other.
August 18.--Last night we were busily employed in cutting up and drying
our two emus, in which operation we were favoured by a slight breeze from
the south-east. As we had no fat nor emu oil to fry the meat with, I
allowed a sufficient quantity of meat to be left on the bones, which made
it worth while to grill them; and we enjoyed a most beautiful moonlight
night over a well grilled emu bone with so much satisfaction, that a
frequenter of the Restaurants of the Palais Royal would have been
doubtful whether to pity or envy us.
We travelled to the north-west, because, whenever I kept a westerly
course, I had almost always to follow creeks down to the northward to
obtain water; and, notwithstanding a north-west course, had, on previous
occasions, generally brought us to salt-water.
For the first three miles, we passed several plains, and crossed a creek
in which we recognised a Casuarina, which tree we had not seen since we
left the Mitchell. We then came to a river from thirty to forty yards
broad, and apparently very deep; the water was very soft, but not
brackish, although affected by the tide, which caused it to rise about
two feet. A narrow belt of brush, with drooping tea-trees, the Corypha
palm, the Pandanus, and Sarcocephalus, grew along the water's edge. The
box, the broad-leaved Terminalia, and the Inga moniliformis (articulate
podded Acacia), covered the gullies which came down from the plains, and
the flats along the river. We proceeded four or five miles up the river,
in a south-west direction, in order to find a crossing place. Large
plains occupied both sides, on which numerous patches of grass had been
lately burnt; which indicated the presence of natives. Fish were very
plentiful, and Charley said he had seen a crocodile. The plains and banks
of the river were well grassed, and adapted for cattle and horses. We
encamped in latitude 17 degrees 57 minutes. [This cannot possibly be
17 degrees 57 minutes--it is about 17 degrees 52 minutes--(Note by
Mr. Arrowsmith.)]
August 19.--The river was joined by a running creek from south-south-west,
which we had to follow up about five miles, where it formed a very
narrow channel between thickets of palm trees, drooping tea-trees,
Sarcocephalus, and particularly Pandanus, which crowded round the
tiny stream. We again travelled north-west, over several plains,
separated by belts of timber, and, at the end of about five miles, came
to a fine brook, whose pure limpid waters flowed rapidly in its deep but
rather narrow channel, over a bed of rich green long-leaved water plants.
Magnificent tea-trees, Casuarinas, and Terminalias, gave a refreshing
shade, and Pandanus and Corypha palms added to the beauty of the spot.
The plains were well-grassed, but full of melon-holes. I observed on them
a few small trees, belonging to the Sapindaceae, with pinnate and rather
drooping leaves, with a light grey bark, exuding a good eatable gum.
I called the brook "Beames's Brook," in acknowledgment of the liberal
support I received from Walter Beames, Esq. of Sydney.
We again enjoyed here the young shoots of the Corypha palm.
August 20.--We crossed Beames's brook without difficulty, and travelled
about two miles north-west, over a plain, when we came to a river with a
broad sandy bed and steep banks, overgrown with large drooping tea-trees.
Its stream was five or six yards broad and very shallow. Parallel lines
of deep lagoons covered with Nymphaeas and Villarsias were on its west
side. The bergue between the river and the lagoons was covered with
bloodwood and leguminous Ironbark; and fine box flats were beyond the
lagoons.
I called this river the "Nicholson," after Dr. William Alleyne Nicholson,
of Bristol, whose generous friendship had not only enabled me to devote
my time to the study of the natural sciences, but to come out to
Australia. The longitude of the Nicholson was 138 degrees 55 minutes
(approx.)
After passing the box flats along-the river, we entered into a country
covered with thickets and scrub, rarely interrupted by small patches of
open forest, and travelled about fourteen miles north-west from the
river, when the setting sun compelled us to encamp, without having been
able to find water. Just on entering the scrub, we saw four emus walking
gravely through a thicket of the little Severn tree, picking its bitter
fruit, and throwing occasionally a wondering but distrustful glance at
our approaching train. Charley and Brown, accompanied by Spring, gave
chase to them, and killed one, which was in most excellent condition.
When we came to the camp, we secured the horses, and watched the
bullocks, as was usual on such occasions, and fried and enjoyed our fresh
meat as well as we could. To satisfy my companions I determined to
reconnoitre the country in advance by moonlight; and allowed them to
return to the lagoons of the Nicholson, should I not have returned by 10
o'clock next morning. Accordingly, I started with Charley when the moon
was high enough to give me a fair view of the country, and followed the
star Vega as it declined to the westward. As we advanced, the country
improved and became more open. It was about midnight when Charley, in
passing a patch of thick scrub, noticed a slight watercourse, which
increased rapidly into large water-holes. These were dry, and covered
with withered grass, but, on resuming our westerly course, we came in a
very short time to a creek with a succession of rocky basins. It was
unaccountable how these deep holes could have become so soon dry, as
every one of them must have been full immediately after the rainy season.
After following the creek for about two hours, Charley remarked that the
cracked mud of one of the large water-holes was moist, and, on digging
about a foot deep, a supply of water collected, abundantly sufficient for
ourselves and for our horses. The channel divided several times, and
Charley examined one branch, and I took the other. Thus separated from my
companion, I caught the cheerful glance of a fire before me, and, as I
approached, a great number of them became visible, belonging to a camp of
the natives. Though I wished to ascertain whether they were encamped near
a water-hole, or near wells, several of which we had observed higher up
the creek, I thought it prudent, unarmed as I was, to wait for Charley. I
cooeed, which disturbed the dogs of the camp; but the cold wind blew so
strong from the east, that I feared Charley would either not hear my
cooee, or I not his. The discharge of his gun, however, showed me where
he was, and we were soon together again. We passed the camp; the fires
sparkled most comfortably in the cold night. We examined the creek, but
saw neither natives nor water. Two miles lower down, however, we came to
fine water-holes with a good supply. We stopt here for an hour, to make a
pot of tea, and to allow our horses to feed. We had followed the creek so
far to the north-east and east, that we were, according to my
calculation, about ten miles N.N.E. from our camp. Trusting in Charley's
almost instinctive powers, I allowed him to take the lead, but he, being
drowsy in consequence of a sleepless night, kept too much to the right,
and missed our tracks. As the appointed time for my return had elapsed,
and I was sure that my companions had gone back, I changed my course to
go at once to the lagoons of the Nicholson; and came on the tracks of the
returning party, which we followed to the lagoons, where my companions
had already safely arrived. We had been on the saddle from 10 o'clock at
night, to 6 o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, and, with the
exception of one hour, had ridden the whole time through the most dreary
and scrubby country, and were, of course, extremely fatigued. Most
annoying, however, was the idea that all our fatigues had been to no
purpose, except to show to my companions that I was right in my
supposition, that a good day's journey parallel to the coast would
invariably bring us to water.
August 22.--We travelled about eighteen miles N.N.W., to those
water-holes we had found on our reconnoitring ride. Their latitude was 17
degrees 39 minutes. The country was so very scrubby and difficult, that
we travelled from morning until long after sunset before we reached the
place. The long journey had both tired and galled our bullocks and
horses, and our packs had been torn into pieces by the scrub. This
induced me to stay a day at this creek (which I called Moonlight Creek,
as it had been found and explored during moonlight), to allow some rest
both to my bullocks and myself, whom the long riding had much exhausted,
and also to re-arrange our packs.
The composition of the scrub depended on the nature of the soil. The
narrow-leaved tea-tree, in shrubs from five to seven feet high, and the
broad-leaved tea-tree from twenty to twenty-five feet high, grew on a
sandy loam, with many ant-hills between them; the little Severn tree and
the glaucous Terminalia preferred the light sandy soil with small
ironstone pebbles, on which the ant-hills were rare, or entirely wanting;
the raspberry-jam tree crowded round water-holes, which were frequently
rocky; and the bloodwood, the leguminous Iron-bark, the box, and
apple-gum, formed patches of open forest.
We collected a great quantity of Terminalia gum, and prepared it in
different ways to render it more palatable. The natives, whose tracks we
saw everywhere in the scrub, with frequent marks where they had collected
gum--seemed to roast it. It dissolved with difficulty in water: added to
gelatine soup, it was a great improvement; a little ginger, which John
had still kept, and a little salt, would improve it very much. But it
acted as a good lenient purgative on all of us.
We found the days, when travelling in the scrub, excessively hot, for the
surrounding vegetation prevented us from feeling the sea-breeze; very
cold easterly and south-easterly winds prevailed during the night.
August 24.--Mr. Calvert and Brown, whom I had sent to reconnoitre the
country, returned with the sad intelligence that they had found no water.
They had crossed a great number of creeks of different sizes, with fine
rocky water-holes, which seemed all to rise in scrubby ironstone hills,
and had a course from S. W. to N. E. and E. N. E.; but towards their
heads they were dry, and lower down they contained salt water. The two
explorers had unfortunately forgotten their bag of provisions, and were
consequently compelled to return before they could accomplish their
object. As I anticipated a very long stage, and perhaps a camp without
water, I had some wallabi skins softened and tied over our quart pots
filled with water, which enabled us to carry about eight quarts with us.
August 25.--We accordingly started early, and travelled for several miles
through a pretty open broad-leaved tea-tree forest, formed by small trees
from twenty to thirty feet high. This changed, however, into dense scrub,
which we could only avoid by keeping more to the westward, in which
direction the tea-tree forest seemed to extend to a great distance. Here
we passed several tea-tree swamps, dry at this time, level, like a table,
and covered with small trees, and surrounded by a belt of fine box-trees
and drooping water-gum trees. In order to come to a watercourse, I again
crossed the thick scrub which covered the undulations of iron-stone to
the northward, and came to a fine rocky creek, which Brown recognised as
one of those he had seen, but which contained only salt water lower down.
We consequently continued our journey to the north-west, through tea-tree
forest, and over some very large tea-tree swamps, and came at last to a
creek and to a small river, along which we travelled until darkness
compelled us to encamp. It had fine water-holes, and was densely shaded
with drooping tea-trees; but the holes were dry, with some few exceptions
of small wells of the natives. The latitude of our camp was 17 degrees 25
minutes.
We had seen a great number of pigeons and white cockatoos, and we were
sure that a greater supply of water was near, as many patches of burnt
grass showed that the natives had been here very lately. Next morning,
the 26th, when Charley returned with the horses, he told us that we had
passed a fine lagoon, not a mile and a half off, at the left bank of the
river, which the night had prevented us from seeing, and which the horses
had found when returning on their tracks. We moved our camp to this
lagoon, which was covered with Villarsia leaves, and contained a reddish
water coloured by very minute floating bodies of that colour. The natives
had surrounded it with dry sticks, leaving an opening on one side, for
the purpose of taking emus, as before described. These birds were very
numerous, and lived exclusively on the fruit of the little Severn tree,
which was excessively bitter and imparted its quality to the meat;
Charley and Brown, assisted by the dog, killed one of them. A cockatoo
was shot, which in form and colours resembled the large white cockatoo,
but was rather smaller, and the feathers of the breast were tipped with
red. We saw the bones of a Jew fish, and a broken shell of Cymbium, in an
old camp of the natives near the lagoon.
The apple-gum, the box, and the Moreton Bay ash composed a very open
well-grassed forest, between the lagoon and the river; the latter had an
E. N. E. and almost easterly course. I called this river or large creek,
"Smith's Creek," after Mr. Smith, a gentleman who had shown us the
greatest kindness and attention when we were staying at Darling Downs.
Our journey round the head of the gulf had shown that the "Plains of
Promise" of Capt. Stokes extended from Big Plain River to the Nicholson,
and that they extended farthest to the southward, along two large salt
water rivers in the apex of the gulf, the more westerly of which was no
doubt the Albert of Capt. Stokes, and the Maet Suyker of the Dutch
navigators. These plains were bounded to the southward by box-flats, and
drained by numerous creeks, which in their lower course were tolerably
supplied with water. The most interesting fact, and which had already
been observed by Capt. Stokes, was the moderate temperature of this part
of the country. If my readers compare my observations on the weather from
lat. 15 degrees 55 minutes at the east coast, to lat. 17 degrees 39
minutes on the west coast of the gulf, they will be struck by the general
complaint of "cold nights." If they compare the direction of the winds,
they will find that at the east coast the southerly and
south-south-westerly winds were very cold, and that they became southerly
and south-easterly at the apex, and turned still more to the eastward, at
the west coast. In comparing these directions of the wind, I was led to
the conclusion, that the large plains were the origin and the cause of
these winds.
The bracing nature of the winds and of the cold nights, had a very
beneficial influence on our bodies; we were all well, with the exception
of Mr. Roper, who still suffered from the wound in his loins, and from a
distressing diarrhoea. I am not aware of the season in which Capt. Stokes
explored this part of the country; but it must not be forgotten, that the
same causes which would produce cold winds in the winter, might be the
cause of hot winds in the summer.
August 27.--We travelled about seventeen miles N. N. W. to lat. 17
degrees 11 minutes 9 seconds, through an uninterrupted scrub and
broad-leaved tea-tree forest. Half way we crossed a broad watercourse,
with long tracks of burnt grass. The Pandanus and the bloodwood grew on
its limited flats. At the end of our stage, we came to a rocky
watercourse, which we followed down, and in which a native dog betrayed
to us a deep pool of water, covered with Villarsia leaves, and surrounded
by Polygonums. Many of the dry water-holes we had passed were surrounded
by emu traps; the tracks of these birds were exceedingly numerous, A
grove of Pandanus was near the water on the sandy banks of the creek.
August 28.--We travelled about eleven miles N. N. W. to lat. 17 degrees 2
minutes 12 seconds, through the bleakest scrubby country we had ever met:
nothing but tea-tree scrub, and that not even cheered by the occasional
appearance of a gum tree, or of the blood-wood. After ten miles, we came
to a salt water creek, rocky, with detached pools of water and deposits
of salt. Following it up, we came to a well beaten foot-path of the
natives, which brought us in a short time to a good supply of drinkable,
though very brackish water. The sandstone hills before us and to the
northward, were covered with low shrubs and the broad-leaved tea-tree,
with wiry and stiff grasses, and looked very unpropitious. The rock was
composed of quartz pebbles of different colours, imbedded in a red clayey
paste.
We have commenced to carry with us not only our quart pots, but also our
two gallon pot full of water.
August 29.--We travelled to lat. 16 degrees 58 minutes 27 seconds long.
138 degrees 25 minutes; a distance of about eight miles N.N.W. and N.W.
over a more open country, with occasional patches of thick scrub. We
crossed several watercourses and creeks; and came to a small river which
flowed to the N. by E. and which I called the "Marlow," after Capt.
Marlow of the Royal Engineers, who had kindly assisted me in the outfit
of my expedition. We went down the river about two or three miles, and
came to a plentiful supply of water, which was indicated, a long time
before we arrived at it, by the call of the red-breasted cockatoos,
noticed a few days since; but which was probably only a variety of the
common species.
A low shrubby Acacia with sigmoid phyllodia was frequent on the hills. A
little fly-catcher (Givagone brevirostris?) charmed us with its pretty
note at our last camps. Bronze-winged pigeons were very numerous, and I
saw a pair of Geophaps plumifera rising from under a shady rock, as I was
riding down a rocky creek. Two black ducks and three cockatoos were shot;
the long reaches of water down the river were covered with water-fowl,
and Charley and Brown were so desirous of procuring some messes of black
ducks, that they did their best to persuade me to stop; but, being
anxious to escape from this scrubby country, I did not yield to their
solicitations.
The crops of the large cockatoos were filled with the young red shoots of
the Haemodorum, which were almost as pungent as chillis, but more
aromatic; the plant abounded on the sandy soil. The small cockatoo of the
plains, which we saw again in great numbers, seems to feed on a white
root and on the honey of the whole seed-vessel, or the flower-bud, of the
drooping tea-tree.
The first part of the night was clear, but it became foggy and cloudy
after midnight. In the morning, the dew was dropping from the trees, but
the grass and our things were not at all wet.
August 30.--We travelled about ten miles N. 60 degrees W. over a scrubby
though a little more open country, full of enormous massive ant-hills,
surpassing even those of Big Ant-Hill Creek, in height and circumference,
and came, at the distance of eight miles from our camp, to a low scrub on
sandy soil with shallow watercourses. Salicornia grew in abundance; and
emu tracks were very frequent. Coming on a broad foot-path of the
natives, I followed it to the south-west, and came to some fine fresh
water-holes in the bed of a creek, surrounded by high drooping tea trees,
which were in blossom and covered with swarms of white cockatoos. These
water-holes were in lat. 16 degrees 55 degrees, and situated to the
south-west of some low scrubby hills. We encamped in a grove of Pandanus.
The natives had just left, and the tea-tree bark was still smoking from
the fire which had spread from their camp.
Large flights of the small white cockatoo came to the water. The
flying-fox visited the blossoms of the tea-tree at night, and made an
incessant screeching noise. Charley shot one of them, which was very fat,
particularly between the shoulders and on the rump, and proved to be most
delicate eating.
August 31.--It rained the whole day; in consequence of which I gave my
cattle a rest. The rain came from the westward, but continued with a
southerly wind; it ceased with wind from the S.E. and E.S.E. Lightning
was observed to the south-west. We erected our tents for the first time
since Mr. Gilbert's death; using tarpaulings and blankets for the
purpose. Our shots amused themselves by shooting Blue Mountainers for the
pot; and a strange mess was made of cockatoo, Blue Mountainers, an eagle
hawk, and dried emu. I served out our last gelatine for Sunday luncheon;
it was as good as when we started: the heat had, however, frequently
softened it, and made it stick to the bag and to the things with which it
was covered.
The fire places of the natives were here arranged in a straight line, and
sheltered from the cold wind by dry branches: they were circular, the
circumference was slightly raised, and the centre depressed and filled
with pebbles, which the natives heat to cook their victuals.
The bell which one of our horses carried, was unaccountably broken at our
last camp; and it was quite a misery to hear its dull jarring sound,
instead of the former cheerful tinkling. One of our horses had separated
from the rest, and had gone so far up the creek, that Charley did not
return with it until very late in the afternoon of the 1st September,
which compelled us to stop at our camp.
CHAPTER XII
HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS--FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE CAMP--TURNER'S
CREEK--WENTWORTH'S CREEK--JOURNALS LOST; FOUND AGAIN--THE VAN
ALPHEN--IMPORTANCE OF TEA--CHOICE OF BULLOCKS FOR AN EXPEDITION--CHOICE
OF A DOG--THE CALVERT--THE ABEL TASMAN--GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN--DISCOVER A
MODE OF USING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS--SEVEN EMU RIVER--CROCODILE--THE
ROBINSON--SHOAL OF PORPOISES--NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE FRUIT OF THE
PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD--MR. ROPER CONVALESCENT--WEAR AND TEAR OF
CLOTHES--SUCCEED IN DRESSING THE SEEDS OF STERCULIA--THE
MACARTHUR--FRIENDLY PARLEY WITH CIRCUMCISED NATIVES--STORE OF TEA
EXHAUSTED--MEDICAL PROPERTY OF THE GREVILLEA DISCOVERED.
Sept. 2.--We travelled N.W. by W. and came, after passing some of the
usual tea-tree scrub, to an undulating country, with scattered shrubs of
the salt water tea-tree, which grew particularly on the sandy heads of
salt water creeks. Salicornia was another sure indication of salt water;
and, after about seven or eight miles, our course was intercepted by a
broad salt-water creek. Its bed, however, was sandy, and the water
shallow, which enabled us to cross it a little higher up, without
difficulty. We turned again to the N.W. by W., steering for one of the
numerous smokes of the natives' fires which were visible in every
direction. We soon came, however, to broad sands with deep impressions of
the tracks of emus, wallabies, and natives; and to sandy depressions
sloping towards narrow salt-water creeks densely fringed with Mangroves.
A large river was no doubt before us. To get out of this difficult
meshwork of salt-waters, I turned to the south-west, and continued in
this direction until the sands, Mangrove creeks, and Salicornias,
disappeared, and we were again fairly in the scrubs, which however we
found more open, and frequently interspersed with bloodwood and Pandanus.
I sent Charley and Brown in different directions to look for water, and a
small pool with brackish ferruginous nasty water was found, which made a
very miserable tea, and affected our bowels. In the Mangrove creeks we
found Telescopium, Pleurotoma; and heaps of oyster-shells, for the first
time on our journey. Arcas were frequent, but no Cythereas. The mussels
(Unios) of the slightly brackish water were small, but plentiful.
It was on this stage that we first met with a leafless species of
Bossiaea, from three to five feet high, with compressed stem, and
branches of the habit of Bossiaea scolopendrium, with yellow blossoms,
and smooth many-seeded pods little more than an inch long. This shrub was
one of the principal components of all the scrubs we passed from this
place to Limmen Bight, and was also found, though less frequently,
towards the centre of Arnheim's Land.
The day was exceedingly hot, though cloudy; the wind from the east: the
night cool, without wind.
When Brown and Charley rejoined us, the former appeared so much alarmed
and agitated, that I thought they had met some natives, and had received
some injury, although they said they had not. My imagination was working
on the possibility of an attack of the natives, and I consequently laid
myself down without taking my boots and trowsers off, to be ready at a
moment's notice, and rose several times in the course of the night to see
that the watches were strictly kept. In the morning watch, John Murphy
roused me by saying that he saw a native: I felt certain now that an
attack was about to be made upon us. I, therefore, immediately gave the
alarm, and every one had his gun ready, when it was discovered that our
own Brown was the man whom John had mistaken for a strange native. He had
left his couch without being observed, and, when he returned, it was too
dark to recognize him; he was, however, very near losing his life, or at
least being shot at, for his wild yells "tis me! tis me!" which he
uttered when he became aware of his dangerous position, were not
understood, but only increased our belief that they were the war-cry of
attacking natives.
The creek, on a water-hole of which we encamped in lat. 16 degrees 54
minutes 50 seconds, was doubtless one of the heads of the broad
salt-water creek we crossed, and which I called "Turner's Creek," after
Cowper Turner, Esq. of Sydney:
Sept. 3.--We travelled about nine miles west by north, through an open
tea-tree forest skirting the heads of those scrubby creeks which went
down to the salt water, the dark mangrove line of which we had seen
yesterday. But we crossed four good sized dry creeks, lined with drooping
tea-trees and white-gum trees. Their banks and flats were covered with
groves of Pandanus, whose stately crowns were adorned with red-fruited
cones: the seed-vessels contained in their stringy texture a rich mellow
pear-like substance, which however was hot, and made our lips and tongues
very sore. We encamped on some water-holes, with excellent water, in a
fifth creek, which lower down contained some fine reaches of brackish
water covered with wild geese (Anseranas melanoleuca, GOULD.) and black
ducks. As Charley was watching some geese, an emu walked up to him, which
he shot; he succeeded besides in getting two geese, which were in most
excellent condition, and weighed better than five pounds each.
A well beaten foot-path of the natives led up a broad salt-water creek,
to the northward of the creek on which we were encamped, and which joined
it lower down. Charley, when going after the horses, saw a camping place
of the natives with spears and the usual utensils: but the inhabitants
had either not yet returned from their hunting and fishing excursions, or
had left it, frightened by the frequent discharge of our guns.
Sept. 4.--We travelled about eleven miles west by north. The first three
miles and a half led us through scrub; we forded a salt-water creek about
thirty yards broad, and then, for the next four miles, proceeded through
a scrubby country, and came to a second salt-water creek as broad as the
first, but containing only pools of water. The scrub now opened, and the
last four miles lay through a fine box-flat, bounded by long hollows
surrounded with drooping tea-trees and the white water-gum, the bright
foliage of which formed a most agreeable contrast with the dull green of
the scrubs and the box-trees. After crossing a small sandy creek, along
which grew a few Sarcocephalus, we came to a large creek lined with
drooping tea-trees and Sarcocephalus, and encamped on a fine pool of
water, within its deep bed. I named this creek after W.C. Wentworth, Esq.
M.C. who had kindly contributed to the outfit of my expedition.
At early dawn, a flight of wild geese filed in long line over our camp,
the flapping of their wings was heavy, but short, and the note they
emitted resembled that of the common goose, but was some-what shriller.
In the box-flat we started a flock of emus, and Spring caught a fine male
bird. It would have been highly amusing for a looker on to observe how
remarkably eager we were to pluck the feathers from its rump, and cut the
skin, to see how thick the fat was, and whether it was a rich yellow, or
only flesh-coloured. We had, indeed, a most extraordinary desire for
anything fat; and we soon found where to look for it. In the emu it
accumulates all over the skin, but particularly on the rump, and between
the shoulders, and round the sternal plate. To obtain the oil, we skinned
those parts, and suspended them before a slow fire, and caught the oil in
our frying pan; this was of a light yellowish colour, tasteless, and
almost free from scent. Several times, when suffering from excessive
fatigue, I rubbed it into the skin all over the body, and its slightly
exciting properties proved very beneficial. It has always been considered
by the white inhabitants of the bush, a good anti-rheumatic.
The sea breeze from the northward still continued during the day; the
nights were clear and dewy, but ceased to be so cold.
I found a piece of granite and a fragment of fortification agate in the
sandy bed of the creek.
Sept. 5.--We travelled about ten miles west by north, to lat. 16 degrees
48 minutes 22 seconds. Having passed a rather open forest of bloodwood,
apple-gum, and leguminous Ironbark, with isolated patches of scrub, and
some dry teat-ree swamps with heaps of calcined mussel-shells, we came to
a thick stringy-bark forest, on a sandy soil, with a hard sandstone
cropping out frequently. This opened into the flats of a sandy Pandanus
creek, which we crossed; and, three miles farther, we came to another
broad creek with salt water. Its bed was rocky, and we forded it easily.
I followed one of its branches for several miles, and found, after
passing its salt-water pools, a small pool of fresh water in its rocky
sandy bed, near which I observed an old camping place of the natives. I
was considerably in advance of my train, and the dog was with me. As I
was examining the pool of water and the numerous tracks round it, an emu
came walking along the shady bed of the creek; I immediately mounted my
horse and pursued it with the dog, and caught it after a very short run;
to prevent its wounding the dog, I dismounted to kill it, when my horse
became frightened, broke loose, and ran away. I returned with the emu to
the water, and when the train arrived, I sent Charley after the horse,
whilst I walked about two miles further up the creek to find a better
supply of water. Not succeeding, however, I returned and encamped at the
small pool, which we enlarged with the spade, and obtained a sufficient
supply of very good water. Charley returned with the horse, but my
saddlebags, my journals and a calabash were lost. I was in great anxiety,
and blamed myself severely for having committed such an act of
imprudence. Charley went, however, a second time on foot, and succeeded
in finding everything but the calabash, which was a great loss to our
dog.
In the camping place of the natives, I found a large round stone of
porphyry, upon which the natives were accustomed to break the
seed-vessels of Pandanus. I could discover no indications of this rock in
the creek, not even the smallest pebble; and I am consequently inclined
to think that this stone was brought by the natives from a considerable
distance to the south-west. But, from the broken pieces of granite of our
last camp, it became evident that a rocky primitive country, like that of
the upper Lynd, could not be very distant. Even the vegetation agreed
well with that of the same locality; as the dwarf Grevillea, G.
chrysodendrum, and the falcate Grevillea of the upper Lynd, were here
again observed. The tea-trees along the banks of the creek, as far as the
salt-water extended, were leafless and dead. This may be accounted for by
a succession of dry years in which usual freshes have not taken place;
and by the supposition that the drooping tea-tree cannot live on water
entirely salt.
Sept. 6.--We travelled twelve miles north-west, through Pandanus and
bloodwood forest, alternating with scrub, stringy-bark forest, and
tea-tree thickets; and, in the latter part of the stage, through
broad-leaved tea-tree forest. We encamped at a fine river, with a bed
three hundred yards broad from bank to bank, but with a narrow channel of
running water. This channel was fringed with the water Pandanus, which we
first observed at Beames's Brook; the sandy bed was covered with drooping
tea-trees and Grevillea chrysodendrum. Charley shot a bustard, the
stomach of which was filled with seeds of Grewia, with small yellow
seeds, and some beetles. On this stage, we again passed some of those
remarkable dry tea-tree swamps--surrounded with heaps of very large
mussel shells--evidently showing that they had been a long time under
water, though they were now overgrown with small tea-trees, perhaps five
or six years old; and which proved, like the drooping tea-trees on the
banks of the creek, that the last few years had been exceedingly dry. I
supposed the river to be the Van Alphen of the Dutch navigators, as its
latitude, where I crossed it, was about 16 degrees 41 minutes, and its
longitude I calculated to be 137 degrees 48 minutes.
Sept. 7.--We travelled about nine miles N. N. W. to latitude 16 degrees
35 minutes; the first part of the stage was scrubby, the latter part
undulating with a fine open stringy-bark forest. The trees were tall, but
rarely more than a foot in diameter. Here we met with hard baked
sandstone, of a whitish grey colour. About seven miles from our camp, we
saw a low blue range to the westward; and, soon after, passed a sandy
Pandanus creek, with scrubby broken banks: this was joined by a second,
and both together entered a broad tea-tree creek, coming from the
south-west, in which we found a fine pool of water covered with white and
yellow Villarsias and yellow Utricularias.
The rose-coloured Sterculia, and a smooth broad-leaved Terminalia, were
observed on the sandy flats of the creek; and a small fan-leaved palm
(Livistona humilis, R. Br.), a small insignificant trunkless plant,
growing between sandstone rocks, was here first observed. A taller
species of this palm, as we subsequently found, formed large tracts of
forest on the Cobourg Peninsula, and near the Alligator rivers.
As our tea bag was getting very low, and as I was afraid that we should
have to go a long time without this most useful article, I thought it
advisable to make a more saving arrangement. We had, consequently, a pot
of good tea at luncheon, when we arrived at our camp tired and exhausted,
and most in want of an exciting and refreshing beverage. The tea-leaves
remaining in the pot, were saved and boiled up for supper, allowing a
pint to each person. In the morning, we had our soup, and drank water ad
libitum. Tea is unquestionably one of the most important provisions of
such an expedition: sugar is of very little consequence, and I believe
that one does even better without it. We have not felt the slightest
inconvenience from the want of flour; and we were a long time without
salt. The want of the latter, however, made us costive, and, when we
began to use it again, almost every one of us had a slight attack of
diarrhoea.
Our horses were still in excellent condition, and even improving; and our
five bullocks also kept in good working order, although the oldest of
them rather lagged behind. In choosing bullocks for such a journey, one
should be particularly careful to choose young powerful beasts, about
five or six years old, and not too heavy. All our old and heavy bullocks
proved to be bad travellers; only one had borne the journey until now,
and he was only preserved by great care and attention. During summer, the
ground is so hot, and frequently so rotten, that even the feet of a dog
sink deep. This heat, should there be a want of water during a long
stage, and perhaps a run after game in addition, would inevitably kill a
soft dog. It is, therefore, of the greatest importance to have a good
traveller, with hard feet: a cross of the kangaroo dog with the
bloodhound would be, perhaps, the best. He should be light, and satisfied
with little food in case of scarcity; although the dried tripe of our
bullocks gave ample and good food to one dog. It is necessary to carry
water for them; and to a little calabash, which we obtained from the
natives of the Isaacs, we have been frequently indebted for the life of
Spring.
Sept. 8.--We travelled about ten miles north-west by west, to latitude 16
degrees (Unclear:)81 minutes. The first and last parts of the stage were
scrubby, or covered with a dense underwood of several species of Acacia,
Grevillea chrysodendrum and a species of Pultenaea with leafless
compressed stem. The intervening part of our journey was through a
stringy-bark forest, with sandy, and frequently rotten soil, on sandstone
ridges or undulations. Some patches of stiffer soil were covered with box
or with straggling apple-gum and bloodwood. In the scrub, I again
observed Fusanus with pinnate leaves. Several good sized dry sandy creeks
were surrounded with Pandanus. We saw a low range in form of a
horse-shoe, to the westward; and a higher one beyond it in the distance.
We encamped at a small river, which had just ceased running, but
contained in its bed two chains of small deep ponds full of perches, and
shaded with Pandanus and drooping tea-trees, which grew to a large size
all over the bed between the two ponds. I named this river the "Calvert,"
in acknowledgment of the good services of Mr. Calvert during our
expedition, and which I feel much pleasure in recording. We saw two emus,
and Brown killed one of them, with the assistance of the dog, which
received a severe cut in the neck from the sharp claw of the bird.
The whole country round the gulf was well-grassed, particularly before we
crossed the Nicholson; and on the plains and approaches to the rivers and
creeks. The large water-holes were frequently surrounded with a dense
turf of Fimbristylis (a small sedge), which our horses liked to feed
upon. Some stiff grasses made their appearance when we approached the
sea-coast, as well on the plains as in the forest. The well-known
kangaroo grass (Anthisteria) forms still one of the principal components
of the pasture. The scrubby country had a good supply of a tufty
wind-grass; and, although the feed was dry during this part of the year,
our horses and cattle did exceedingly well, as I have already mentioned.
Both took an occasional bite of some Acacias, of Grevillea chrysodendrum,
and of several other shrubs. Cattle driven over the country we have
passed, by short stages, and during the proper season, would even fatten
on the road.
When we approached the water-hole on which we were going to encamp, John
observed a fine large Iguana in the water, which was so strikingly
coloured that he thought it different from those we had previously seen.
Xyris, Philydrum, a species of Xerotes, and an aromatic spreading herb,
grew in great abundance round the water. I found a great quantity of the
latter in the stomach of the emu. A species of Crotolaria, two or three
feet high, with simple woolly oblong or oblongo-lanceolate leaves, and
with a beautiful green blossom of the form and size of that of Kennedya
rubicunda, grew in the bed of the river. Great numbers of large bright
yellow hornets, with some black marks across the abdomen, visited the
water. Flies were exceedingly troublesome: but the mosquitoes annoyed us
very rarely, and only where water was very abundant. The nights have been
very dewy, but not cold. The wind in the morning from the south-east,
veering round to the northward during the day.
Sept. 9.--We travelled north-west by north, and for several miles,
through a scrubby stringy-bark forest, when we came to steep sandstone
ridges, composed of a hard flaggy horizontally stratified rock. Higher
ranges were seen to the W.N.W. and west; and I found myself fairly caught
between rocky hills when I least expected them, but hoped to enter upon a
country corresponding in its character with the low coast marked down in
the map, in this latitude. I turned to the northward, and found a
practicable path between the hills, and came, after crossing a small
sandy creek to a fine salt-water river, as broad as any we had seen. High
hills were at its left bank; and, as we followed it up in a direction S.
60 degrees W., the right became more broken, and the vegetation richer. A
very conspicuous foot-path led us through heaps of cockle shells to a
fishing station of the natives, where they seemed to have a permanent
camp; the huts being erected in a substantial manner with poles, and
thatched with grass and the leaves of Pandanus; there were extensive fire
places containing heaps of pebbles; and an abundance of fish bones. The
weir was, as usual, formed with dry sticks, across a shallow part of the
river. A spring of fresh water was below the camp at the edge of high
water. As the tide was high, and an abundant supply of fresh water was
found in a creek which joined the river a few hundred yards from the
fishery, we encamped on the creek, in lat. 16 degrees 28 minutes 57
seconds, lon. 137 degrees 23 minutes. I consider this river to be the
"Abel Tasman" of the Dutch navigators: and that it is probably joined by
the Calvert. Its flats were well-grassed, and very openly timbered with
bloodwood, stringy-bark, leguminous Ironbark, then in blossom, and a
large tree with white smooth bark, spreading branches, and pinnate
leaves. The salt water Hibiscus (Paritium) and Acacia (Inga
moniliformis), were also in blossom.
Charley, Brown, and John, went to spear some fish, but the tide was out,
the water shallow, and the fish were gone. Charley saw here, for the
first time, the Torres Straits pigeon (Carpophaga luctuosa, GOULD.)
The little creek, at which we were encamped, had formed its channel
through sandstone rock; and its narrow bed, containing a ferruginous
water supplied by springs, was crowded with high reeds, and shaded with
various trees of a dense green foliage. Frogs croaked, and crickets
chirped, the whole night; and the call of goat-suckers, and the hooting
of owls, were heard in every direction; large fish were splashing in the
water; wallabies were bleating as they came down to the creek, and saw
our horses; and mosquitoes by their loud humming prevented our sleeping.
This noise of animal life during the night formed an agreeable contrast
to the dead silence which we had observed at almost all our camps around
the gulf, with the exception of the one occupied on the 1st September,
and of that at the Marlow, where the flying-fox was the merry reveller of
night.
Sept. 10.--We were again too late for low tide, to cross at the fishery
of the natives, and consequently travelled about two miles and a half
higher up, passing in our way three other fisheries; where we crossed the
river, the bed was very wide, and covered with shrubs, shingle, and
blocks of sandstone; but its rapid stream of fresh water was only about
fifteen or twenty yards broad, and three feet deep. At the left side of
the river, we saw four or five fine Cycas palms, from eight to ten feet
high, and the stem from six to nine inches in diameter. High rocky
sandstone ridges extended on the same side, in a direction parallel to
the river, and at the distance of two or three miles. They were covered
with scrub, open box, and stringy-bark forest; and the wallabi and
kangaroo tracks going down to the river, were very numerous. The
appearance of the Cypress pine, which formed groups within the
stringy-bark forest, and particularly on the rises and sandy slopes, was
of a most striking character. A new species of Grevillea, and also of
Calythrix, were found in blossom. Beyond the ridges, the stringy-bark
forest was obstructed by the leguminous shrub with broad stem (Bossiaea).
Several Pandanus creeks went down to the north-east; and the second
contained a little water. After travelling about twelve miles to the
north-west by north, we encamped at a fine creek with large pools of
water, in lat. 16 degrees 21 minutes. During the night, we heard the
well-known note of what we called the "Glucking bird," when we first met
with it, in the Cypress pine country, at the early part of our
expedition. Its re-appearance with the Cypress pine corroborated my
supposition, that the bird lived on the seeds of that tree.
Sept. 11.--We travelled about twelve miles north by west, over a country
in which scrub, stringy-bark forest, and Cypress pine thickets
alternated. We passed some patches of broad-leaved tea-tree forest. The
raspberry-jam tree became again more frequent. About a mile from the
camp, we crossed a small creek with water; and at seven miles further,
another, but it was dry; and, at the end of the stage we came to a fine
sandy creek with large pools. Seeing that the natives had encamped here
frequently, and some very lately, by the heaps of broken Pandanus fruit,
I did not hesitate to pitch our tents; but, on examining the water, I was
greatly disappointed in finding it so brackish that the horses and cattle
would not drink it. I, therefore, started with Charley in search of
better, and, in the upper part of the creek, we found some large
water-holes just dried up: but, on digging, they yielded an ample supply
of good water. On this little excursion, we were fortunate enough, by the
aid of Spring, to kill two emus; but the poor dog again received some
deep scratches.
The camps of the natives were, as usual, distinguished by heaps of shells
of Cytherea, oysters, fresh-water mussels, and fish bones. The
fresh-water mussel was small, and of a yellowish colour.
We had some few drops of rain at about half-past 11 o'clock, A. M,
Sept. 12.--The horses, though hobbled, had strayed so far in search of
water, that we had to wait for them until 1 o'clock. We started, however,
but, after travelling a short distance, finding the day far advanced, and
our chance of finding water very doubtful, I determined to return to the
water-hole which we had dug yesterday; about two miles and a half west by
south. The flats of the creek were well-grassed; large drooping tea-trees
with groves of Pandanus grew on the hollows near the creek, and tea-tree
thickets farther off.
I frequently tasted the fine-looking fruit of the Pandanus, but was every
time severely punished with sore lips and a blistered tongue; and the
first time that I ate it, I was attacked by a violent diarrhoea. I could
not make out how the natives neutralized the noxious properties of the
fruit; which, from the large heaps in their camps, seemed to form no
small portion of their food. The fruit appeared either to have been
soaked, or roasted and broken, to obtain the kernels; for which purpose
we invariably found large flat stones and pebbles to pound them with. I
supposed that they washed out the sweet mealy matter contained between
the stringy fibres, and that they drank the liquid, as they do with the
honey; and that their large koolimans which we had occasionally seen,
were used for the purpose. I, consequently, gathered some very ripe
fruit, scraped the soft part with a knife, and washed it until all the
sweet substance was out, and then boiled it; by which process it lost
almost all its sharpness, had a very pleasant taste, and, taken in
moderate quantities, did not affect the bowels. The fruit should be so
ripe as to be ready to drop from the tree.
Sept. 13.--We travelled about ten miles N. 50 degrees W., through a
succession of tea-tree and Cypress pine thickets of the worst
description, interrupted by three creeks, the first dry, the second with
pools of brackish water, and the third with chains of Nymphaea ponds
within and parallel to its bed. We came at last to the steep banks of a
salt-water creek densely covered with Cypress pine scrub, and followed it
for several miles up to its head, when two kites betrayed to us a fine
lagoon, surrounded with Polygonums and good pasture. The natives were
either able to drink very brackish water, or they carried the necessary
supply of fresh water to these Pandanus groves, at which they had
evidently remained a long time to gather the fruit.
Sept. 14.--We travelled three or four miles north-west, through a
tea-tree forest, when the country opened, and a broad salt-water river
intercepted our course. It came from W.S.W., and went to E.N.E. We
proceeded eight or ten miles along its banks before we came to fresh
water. In its immediate neighbourhood, the country was beautifully
grassed, and openly timbered with bloodwood, stringy-bark, the leguminous
Ironbark, and the white-barked tree of the Abel Tasman. Over the short
space of eight miles we saw at least one hundred emus, in flocks of
three, five, ten, and even more, at a time: they had been attracted here
by the young herbage. We killed seven of them, but they were not fat, and
none seemed more than a year old. The extraordinary success induced me to
call this river, the "Seven Emu River."
By following a track of the natives, I found a fine well in the bed of
the river, under the banks; the water was almost perfectly fresh; and
that of the river was only slightly brackish. A fishing weir crossed the
stream, where it was about twenty yards broad, and from two to three feet
deep. We were occupied to a late hour of the night in cutting up our
emus. I had intended to stop the next day, but, as our camp in the bed of
the river was surrounded by a thick underwood; as the dew was very heavy,
the water brackish, and the young feed dangerous for our cattle, which
had fed so long on dry grass, I thought it prudent to continue my
journey. The longitude of this river, according to my daily distances,
was 137 degrees 5 minutes.
Sept. 15.--We travelled about fifteen miles N. 25 degrees W., passing for
the first eight miles over a very fine available country, but without
meeting with water, or even with a watercourse. Beyond that, however, the
country became more undulating, and we crossed, for about four miles, a
most wretched sandstone scrub. Here we saw some natives, but they avoided
us. The scrub opened upon fine box flats, with numerous shallow
watercourses; farther on, they were interrupted by scrubby or thickly
timbered elevations, on which we met with some Cycas palms from thirty to
fifty feet high, thick at the butt, and tapering gradually towards the
crown. At one of the shallow creeks, which suddenly became rocky, and
probably formed falls and rapids in the wet season, we struck upon a well
beaten foot-path of the natives, which led us through Cypress pine
thickets, and over open lawns to a creek, whose right bank was covered
with Cycas groves of the most strikingly picturesque appearance; and here
I observed that the Cycas, although it generally has a simple stem,
frequently grew with two or three arms. The foot-path went up the creek:
lower down, I found broad, deep, but dry water-holes; and, still lower,
Salicornia indicated the approach to the salt water. The foot-path
conducted us from one Zamia grove to another, which alternated with fine
forest composed principally of white-gum, the fresh green foliage of
which was extremely pleasing to the eye. I observed some large wells, ten
or twelve feet deep, and eight or ten in diameter, which the natives had
dug near the Zamia groves, but they were without the slightest indication
of moisture. I continued to follow the path for five miles, until I came
to a broad-leaved tea-tree forest. The sun was then low, and my
companions far behind: I, therefore, returned to ascertain the cause of
their delay; and found that our old bullock had refused to carry his
pack, and it had been put on a horse; but that, even then, the poor beast
was scarcely able to crawl before us. His weakness had been occasioned by
a diarrhoea brought on by the green feed and the brackish water at Seven
Emu River; and I congratulated myself on not having remained there
longer, as probably all my bullocks would have been equally affected. We
encamped without water, hobbled our horses, and watched the bullocks,
which were all very tired and little inclined to feed during the greater
part of the night.
Our emu meat became tainted, in consequence of the heat and the long
stage.
Sept. 16.--We continued our course N. 25 degrees W. and, at the end of
two miles, came to another foot-path of the natives, which I requested
Charley to follow. We passed through tea-tree forest, and a succession of
Cycas groves, and came out into plains, and to the heads of sandy creeks
with tea-tree shrubs and Salicornia. We were just turning to the
westward, expecting to find a large salt-water river before us, when we
heard Charley's gun, the signal of his having found water. He soon after
joined us, and guided us on the foot-path, three miles south-west, to a
large well, near a much frequented camping place of the natives, under
the banks of a magnificent salt-water river. Its banks were covered with
a close forest of Cycas palms. The well was formed by the natives, who
had raised a wall of clay, by which they caught the fresh water which
sparingly oozed out of a layer of clay very little above the mark of high
water.
We unloaded our bullocks: but, having watered our horses, we found that
the supply of the well was not even sufficient for them, and that it was
filling very slowly. The poor bullocks had, therefore, to wait until the
water could again collect. We had fairly to defend it against our horses,
which eagerly pressed towards the water, or stood anxiously waiting on
the steep slopes, like cats and dogs round a dog's meat cart, now and
then uttering a neigh of discontent. When Charley first discovered the
well, he saw a crocodile leaning its long head over the clay wall,
enjoying a drink of fresh water.
The river or creek at which we encamped, and which I called "Cycas
Creek," at two miles lower down, entered a still larger river coming from
the westward, which I called the "Robinson," in acknowledgment of the
liberal support which I received from J. P. Robinson, Esq., in the outfit
of my expedition. Charley saw a shoal of porpoises in it when he went
down the river to fetch the horses. Wishing to ascertain how far the salt
water extended, and whether any fresh water lagoons were near us, I took
Charley, and followed a foot-path of the natives which led up Cycas
Creek, and passed a succession of Cycas groves, of tea-tree forest with
bloodwood and white-gum, and some Cypress pine thickets. After seven
miles, the salt water ceased, and a ledge of rock separated it from a
fine pool of slightly brackish water, on which some natives were
encamped, but they left the place directly we made our appearance. I
crossed, and found on the left side a fine rocky lagoon, above the level
of the water in the creek. After paying a visit to the deserted camp, we
returned to our companions, made our dinner on tainted emu meat, reloaded
our bullocks and horses, and travelled by moonlight up to the lagoon.
About three miles before we reached it, we were obliged to leave our old
bullock, as he refused to walk any farther: but Mr. Calvert and Brown
brought him next morning to the camp.
As we passed the Cycas groves, some of the dry fruit was found and tasted
by several of my companions, upon whom it acted like a strong emetic,
resembling in this particular the fruit of Zamia spiralis, (R. Br.) of
New South Wales. The natives, at this season, seemed to live principally
on the seeds of Pandanus spiralis, (R. Br.) and Cycas; but both evidently
required much preparation to destroy their deleterious properties. At the
deserted camp of the natives, which I visited yesterday, I saw half a
cone of the Pandanus covered up in hot ashes, large vessels (koolimans)
filled with water in which roasted seed-vessels were soaking;
seed-vessels which had been soaked, were roasting on the coals, and large
quantities of them broken on stones, and deprived of their seeds. This
seems to show that, in preparing the fruit, when ripe, for use, it is
first baked in hot ashes, then soaked in water to obtain the sweet
substance contained between its fibres, after which it is put on the
coals and roasted to render it brittle when it is broken to obtain the
kernels.
I also observed that seeds of Cycas were cut into very thin slices, about
the size of a shilling, and these were spread out carefully on the ground
to dry, after which, (as I saw in another camp a few days later) it
seemed that the dry slices are put for several days in water, and, after
a good soaking, are closely tied up in tea-tree bark to undergo a
peculiar process of fermentation.
The Cycas disappeared where the fresh water commenced; and it seemed to
be confined to the sandy soil near the salt water.
Sept. 17.--I stopped at Cycas Creek, to allow our old bullock to recover,
as it was easier for us to drive him than to carry his meat, heavily
laden as our other bullocks were.
The emu meat became so tainted that it affected our bowels, and I had
consequently to reserve it for the dog. As the nutritious qualities of
our meat decreased, I had increased the daily allowance from five pounds
to seven; allowing two pounds and a half for breakfast, the same quantity
for luncheon, and two pounds for dinner. Mr. Roper had slowly recovered,
but sufficiently to mount his horse without assistance.
We were sadly distressed for want of clothing. The few shirts which we
had taken with us, became so worn and threadbare, that the slightest
tension would tear them. To find materials for mending the body, we had
to cut off the sleeves, and, when these were used, pieces were taken from
the lower part of the shirt to mend the upper. Our trowsers became
equally patched: and the want of soap prevented us from washing them
clean. We had, however, saved our shoes so well, by wearing mocassins
while travelling along the eastern coast, that every one was well
provided, particularly after the death of Mr. Gilbert, whose stock of
clothes I divided among my companions.
Sept. 18.--I went with Charley to reconnoitre the country between Cycas
creek and the Robinson. A foot-path led us from one to the other, passing
through a series of Cycas groves, box and tea-tree forest, and thickets
of tea-tree and Cypress pine. The latter covered long tracts near the
Robinson, and frequently attained a large size.
The river was about two hundred yards broad, with sleep banks intersected
by deep gullies. Two tea-tree creeks, which entered it at the point where
our examination stopped, contained fresh water in the upper part of their
short courses. We crossed the river by a rocky bar, and, below it, was
another, on which the natives had erected a rude wall of stone, for
catching fish. The upper bar was not covered even by the tide; but, above
it, the water although very bitter, was not salt. We found here the
carcase of a crocodile; and the skull of another was found near our camp
at Cycas Creek. After crossing the river, we followed down its left bank
to the lower ford, in order to find some fresh water, and at last came to
a small tea-tree gully with two pools of water, near which some natives
were encamped; there were, however, only two very old men in the camp at
the time, who, on seeing us, began to chaunt their incantations. We were
too anxious to examine the water to stand upon ceremony, and, when they
saw us approach, they retired across the river to their friends, who were
probably occupied at no great distance in collecting the seeds of
Pandanus and Cycas. In the camp, we observed Cycas seeds sliced and
drying on the ground; and some Pandanus seeds soaking in large vessels;
emu bones were lying in the ashes, and the feet of the emu were rolled up
and concealed between the tea-tree bark of the hut. A small packet
contained red ochre to colour their bodies, and larger packets contained
soaked Cycas seeds, which seemed to be undergoing fermentation. They were
of a mealy substance, and harmless; but had a musty taste and smell,
resembling that of the common German cheese. There was also a very large
stone tomahawk made of greenstone; and some fans of emu feathers.
In returning, we chased and shot an emu.
Sept. 19.--We moved our camp to the water-holes at the left bank of the
Robinson, about six miles and a half west by north, from the head of the
salt-water in Cycas Creek. The longitude of the Robinson is, according to
my reckoning, 136 degrees 43 minutes. On our way we again met the
natives, men, women, and children, who ran away screaming loudly. I
visited their camp again, and found that they had been there to fetch the
emu feet; but had left all the other things behind. I went with Brown to
examine the country before us. The first three or four miles lay through
an open well-grassed forest and over some small plains, on which we gave
an unsuccessful chase to three emus. The Cycas disappeared as we receded
from the river. We passed a small scrubby creek, and a long tract of
stringy-bark forest, mixed with bloodwood and Pandanus, and patches of
Cypress pine. Here we again observed the gum-tree with orange blossoms
and large ribbed seed-vessels, which we found at the upper Lynd, and had
called Melaleuca gum. Sterculia was frequent, and we collected a great
quantity of its ripe seeds. We passed several dry swamps, surrounded with
tea-tree thickets, and heaps of fresh water mussel shells. A rich
iron-stone rock cropped out frequently; its surface had the appearance of
having been netted.
In a tract of broad-leaved tea-tree forest, we came to a watercourse,
which led us to a fine creek surrounded with Pandanus and drooping
tea-trees, and containing a chain of deep water-holes in its bed. Its
course was from west to east.
Sept. 20.--We removed our camp to the creek I had found last night, about
nine miles north-west from the Robinson. On our way, we saw two flocks of
emus, and Spring caught one of the birds. According to Charley, who is a
native of Bathurst, the emus of this part of the country are much smaller
than those of his country, which frequently yield from two to three
gallons of oil; but very few of the gulf emus contained fat enough to fry
their own liver; and their skin was as dry as that of the native dog. A
similar difference has been observed in the bustard, which, at the gulf,
rarely weighed more than three pounds and a half; whereas individuals of
twenty and twenty-eight pounds weight have been shot to the southward.
I succeeded here in cooking the seeds of Sterculia, which had recently
been gathered; first by separating them from their prickly husks, and
roasting them slightly, and then pounding and boiling them for a short
time. They produced not only a good beverage with an agreeable flavour,
but ate well and appeared to be very nourishing. They contained a great
quantity of oil.
Brown caught an Agama, of a light yellowish colour, about a foot long.
The nights had been generally cloudy, with the exception of the last,
which was clear with heavy dew. The days were very hot before the setting
in of the sea breeze, which now generally took place at half past eleven.
But the refreshing breeze was little felt in the close stringy-bark
forest, which, with the dust rising under our bullocks' feet, rendered
the heat almost suffocating.
Sept. 21.--Our journey to-day was in a N. 50 degrees W. direction for
about eleven miles, through stringy-bark forest, in which the Melaleuca
and the Cypress pine were either scattered, or formed small patches of
forest. We then crossed a shallow sandy creek surrounded with thickets of
Cypress pine; passed some broad-leaved tea-tree forest, and came to a
fine open country timbered with tea-tree, and, farther on, with box and
white gum. After fifteen miles, our course was intercepted by the largest
salt-water river we had yet seen, and we turned at once to the W.S.W. in
order to head it. Deep hollows surrounded by tea-trees, but quite dry,
extended parallel to the river. We observed several islands in the river;
and it was joined by some deep creeks filled with salt water at their
lower parts, but dry higher up. The whole country was equally open and
well grassed. The leguminous Ironbark, the white-barked tree of the Abel
Tasman, the fig tree, and Sterculia in fruit, grew in the forest; and the
white water-gum in the hollows, the drooping tea-tree at the level of the
freshes, and a species of salt-water Casuarina below it.
I called this river the "Macarthur," in acknowledgment of the liberal
support my expedition received from Messrs. James and William Macarthur
of Cambden.
When we were passing through the stringy-bark forest, about four or five
miles from the camp of the 20th, we heard the calls of some natives
behind us, and I stopped our train to ascertain what they wanted: they
were soon perceived running after us, and, when they were sufficiently
near, I dismounted and advanced slowly to have a parley, and was met by
an old man with three or four young fellows behind him. As soon as he saw
that I intended to make him a present, he prepared one in return; and
when I gave him some rings and buckles, he presented me with some of the
ornaments he wore on his person. As our confidence in each other was thus
established, some of my companions and several others of the natives came
up, and we exchanged presents in a very amicable manner. They were all
well made, good looking men; and one young man, whose body was coloured
red, was even handsome, although his expression was somewhat wild and
excited. All of them seemed to have been circumcised. Charley told me
afterwards, that, at my first approach, some of them held their
bommerangs ready to throw, but I do not think that it was more than a
simple attitude of defence, in case I should have proved the aggressor.
On my inquiring about water, they pointed in the direction which we were
going, and seemed to say, "It is far, but it is large; Baco! Baco!
Umara!" they frequently repeated with emphasis. John also told me that an
old man had made signs of a large water, but not fit to drink, and was
very anxious for us to change our course, Mr. Roper had understood the
same. But, as long as we were ignorant what was before us, the pantomime
and words of the natives enabled us to form but very vague and hopeless
guesses. It was easy to understand them, when we knew the reality. These
natives must have had some intercourse with white men, or Malays, for
they knew the use of a knife, and valued it so highly, that one of them
offered a gin for one. They appeared equally acquainted with the use of
our fire-arms. No doubt they had seen the Malays, and probably some had
accompanied them to the islands; as it is a common custom of the Malays
to take natives home with them, that they may become friendly to them
when fishing for trepang at this part of the gulf.
As the stage lengthened, our old bullock began to lag behind, and at last
lay down incapable of walking any farther. In the hope of finding water,
I continued my journey until the decline of day compelled me to encamp.
We watched our bullocks as usual during the night, and I was distressed
to find that another of them, a young but heavy beast, had suffered so
much, that I feared he would soon have to be slaughtered, and the number
of our pack bullocks be again reduced.
Sept. 22.--I sent Mr. Calvert and Charley back to fetch the bullock,
whilst we continued our journey up the river. The country maintained the
same character, being open and well-grassed. At the end of about seven
miles, we came to a range of sandstone hills with horizontal strata,
deeply fissured and worn by the waters and the atmosphere. A creek at the
northern side of the range was dry; but, at its southern foot, there was
another, which contained several small pools and two deep rocky basins
with an ample supply of water. Here, therefore, we encamped to wait for
our old bullock, which I now resolved to kill; being well aware that he
would be a constant drawback to our progress. Wallabies were exceedingly
numerous, and their tracks as broad as the foot-paths of the natives. Our
lat. was 16 degrees 5 minutes 26 seconds; long. according to reckoning,
136 degrees 10 minutes.
Mr. Calvert and Charley had succeeded in driving our bullock to within
about three miles of our camp, where he had again lain down. As soon as
the moon rose, I went with Charley to bring him on; but when we came to
the place where they had left him, he was gone. It was impossible even
for Charley to track him in the uncertain moonlight; and, as the night
was very cold and foggy along the flats and hollows of the river, we made
a fire, to wait for daylight. By a most unfortunate accident, my hat
caught fire, and was consumed in an instant; it was a great loss to me in
such a climate, and under daily exposure to a most powerful sun. I had to
make shift with a small bag made of strong canvass, the long end of which
I turned over my face to shade it. When the sun rose, we resumed our
search, and succeeded in finding the poor beast, after tracking him for
six miles across the country; he had evidently rambled in search of
water, and had generally been attracted by shady hollows, in which any
one would have reasonably expected to find it. He had, however, been
completely unsuccessful; the hollows appeared to have been dry for a very
long time; he travelled tolerably well to our camp, where he was
immediately killed, skinned, quartered, and cut up. His meat was not
quite so flaccid and watery as that of our last bullock; but it was by no
means good. He was an old, and a heavy beast, and the experience we had
of him strongly corroborates my observations, that such beasts can
neither bear the fatigues of a long journey, nor travel with a load,
unless regularly well fed and watered.
On this occasion we made a grand discovery, of which we afterwards
profited greatly. A portion of the skin of the bullock was dried, and a
certain quantity was added to our soup at night; which we soon found to
be not only a great improvement, but to be in itself much preferable to
the tasteless meat of our knocked-up bullocks. The stomach was also made
use of on this occasion, as our useful dog, Spring, was well provided
with emu meat. We had our last pot of tea on the 22nd, and we were now
fairly put on dry beef and water.
By a mere accident, we discovered a remarkable medicinal property of the
glutinous secretion of the seed-vessels of a drooping Grevillea. John
Murphy, having no pockets in his trowsers, put the seeds which he found
during the stage into his bosom, close to the skin, where he had already
deposited a great number of Sterculia, and was much inconvenienced by the
starry prickles which surround the seeds. Afterwards, finding the
drooping Grevillea in fruit, he gathered some capsules and placed them as
before stated. Upon arriving at the camp, he felt great pain; and, on
examining the place, he saw, to his greatest horror, that the whole of
the skin of the epigastric region was coloured black, and raised into a
great number of painful blisters. Upon his showing it to me, I thought
that it was caused by the Sterculia prickles having irritated the skin,
and rendered it more sensitive to the sharp properties of the exudation
of the seed-vessels of Grevillea. Brown, however, merely touched the skin
of his arm with the matter, when blisters immediately rose; showing
clearly its properties. The discoloration of the skin was like the
effects of nitrate of silver.
Sept. 24.--When Charley returned with the horses from a higher part of
the river, he told us that he had seen so many wallabies and such
numerous tracks of emus and crocodiles, that I sent John and Brown to
procure some game. They returned with only a red wallabi (Halmaturus
agilis) and a spoonbill. According to their account, the river enlarged
into an immense sandy bed, like that of the Lynd, and was covered with
trees and shrubs, very much resembling those of that river. Its course
was from the westward; and in that direction large plains extended. They
had seen three crocodiles, one of which lay in the shade of a
Sarcocephalus tree. The bean of the Mackenzie grew plentifully along the
river, and was covered with ripe seeds. In the morning of the 25th, I
sent John and Brown to collect as many of them as they could, for coffee;
whilst I and Charley went to reconnoitre the country for water. A W.N.W.
course brought us so much into sandstone ranges, gullies, and heads of
creeks, that we turned to the northward, until we came again into the
open box and tea-tree forest, mixed with bloodwood and gum. About four
miles from the camp, we found water-holes supplied by springs, and which
had just been left by the natives, who were busy in burning the grass
along the ridges, and on the fine intervening flats. It was here that I
again met with a species of Banksia, on the sandy flats immediately below
the sandstone ranges, which was either a variety of B. integrifolia, or a
species very nearly allied to it. We found it afterwards all over
Arnheim's Land, especially on the table land and on the rocky heads of
the South Alligator River, where it grew on sandy flats surrounding the
rocks, and particularly round sandy swamps. The Cypress-pine and Pandanus
were frequent, but Sterculia was rare. We remarked that the little
finches generally anticipated us in the harvest of the ripe fruit of the
latter. About eight miles from the springs, after crossing a great number
of small dry sandy watercourses, we came to a fine creek with two large
Nymphaea ponds.
On our return, we ran down an emu, the stomach of which was full of the
fruit of the little Severn tree. The meat of the whole body was so
exceedingly bitter, that I could scarcely eat it. Brown and John had
returned with a good supply of beans, and of the large eatable roots of a
Convolvolus growing on the plains. The former allowed us again a pot of
coffee at luncheon for the next three weeks. This coffee had at first a
relaxing effect, but we soon became accustomed to it, and enjoyed it even
to the grounds themselves.
Sept. 26.--We removed our camp to the water-holes I had found the day
before. We crossed the river at the head of the salt water, where the
shallow stream of fresh water was about fifteen yards broad. Sandstone
ridges were all round our last camp, and on the opposite side of the
river, where it was joined by a deep Pandanus creek. John Murphy told me
that he shot a fish at the crossing place, which had the first ray of the
dorsal fin very much prolonged, like one of the fresh-water fishes of
Darling Downs; they had been in such a hurry to roast it, that I had no
chance of examining it.
The day was exceedingly hot, particularly from 7 to 11 o'clock, when the
strong sea breeze set in from the north-east.
Sept. 27.--I went with Brown to reconnoitre the country to the
north-west. About a mile from the camp, we crossed a fine creek with a
chain of ponds and a tiny stream densely fringed with Pandanus. To the
north-west of it, we rode through a succession of scrubby and open
stringy-bark forest of tea-tree flats and thickets, and over long tracts
of stringy-bark saplings which had been recently burned. The Melaleuca
gum was very frequent in the stringy-bark forest: the Cypress-pine formed
either small thickets or occurred scattered. Sterculia, which at the time
was particularly valuable to us, was rare.
Red ironstone cropped out every where, and formed large shallow basins,
surrounded by tea-tree thickets; like those swamps I have mentioned on
several occasions. About eight miles from the camp, we crossed a good
sized waterless creek, with drooping tea-trees, and groves of Pandanus;
and about three miles farther, came to a large creek with some very long
water-holes, which were all stocked with small fish. On our return, it
became so dark that we missed our tracks; and, by keeping too much to the
eastward, we came to a very wild rocky country, in which the large
Pandanus creek, as well as that on which we were encamped, changed their
character so much that we crossed without recognising them. We encamped
out, and the next morning, the 28th, we changed our course to the
southward, which brought us to a little hill we had passed two days
before, and which Brown immediately recognised: thus affording another
instance of the quickness of his eye, and of his wonderful memory for
localities. We returned on our former bullock tracks to the camp; and
having taken some breakfast, and loaded our bullocks, we immediately
started for the water-holes, which were situated about eleven miles to
the north-west, in lat. 15 degrees 47 minutes 23 seconds.
Sept. 29.--I reconnoitered with Charley in a north by west course, and
travelled through a most wretched country. Cypress-pine thickets
alternated with scrubby stringy-bark forest, acacia and tea-tree
thickets, and with broad tea-tree forest. The Bossiaea with broad
leafless stem, was one of the principal components of the scrub. About
eight miles from our camp, we crossed a small creek with good
water-holes; and at four miles and a half further, came to a river with
several channels, separated by high and irregular bergues, with a sandy
bed containing large pools of water surrounded with water Pandanus and
drooping tea-trees. Acacia neurocarpa, and a species of Cassia, which we
had observed since leaving Seven Emu River, grew on the sands. After
giving our horses a short rest, during which we refreshed ourselves with
a pot of Sterculia coffee, we returned towards our camp; but, wishing to
find a more open road, kept more to the eastward, and came sooner than I
expected to Sterculia Creek: which name I had given to the creek on which
we were encamped, in reference to the groves of Sterculias of both
species, rose-coloured as well as heterophylla, which grow on its banks.
We followed it up for seven miles, when the setting sun, and our great
fatigue, induced us to stop. The creek changed its character every
quarter of a mile, forming now a broad sandy or pebbly bed, then a narrow
channel between steep banks; and again several channels, either with fine
water-holes, or almost entirely filled up and over-grown with a scanty
vegetation. On the banks, thickets alternated with scrubs and open
country, and, lower down, the country became very fine and open. Early in
the morning of the 30th, we started again, and arrived at the camp after
a long ride, both hungry and tired.
CHAPTER XIII
CAPE MARIA--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF NATURAL
HISTORY--LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER--HABITS OF WATER BIRDS--NATIVE FISH TRAP--THE
FOUR ARCHERS--THE WICKHAM--THE DOG DIES--IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND
GEESE--THE ROPER--THREE HORSES DROWNED--OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY
BOTANICAL COLLECTION--MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES,
CIRCUMCISED--HODGSON'S CREEK--THE WILTON--ANOTHER HORSE DROWNED--ANXIETY
ABOUT OUR CATTLE--AN ATTACK ON THE CAMP FRUSTRATED--BOILS--BASALT
AGAIN--INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE SEEDS OF AN ACACIA.
Oct. 1.--The camp was moved forward to the river we had found on the
29th, about thirteen miles north by west from our camp at Sterculia
Creek. About a mile from the river, we passed a large swampy lagoon,
round which the natives had burned the grass. Several flocks of whistling
ducks (Leptotarsis Eytoni, GOULD) and many black Ibises were here. We
heard the call of the "Glucking bird" every night during the last
fortnight, particularly from about 2 to 5 o'clock a.m. I called this
river the "Red Kangaroo River;" for, in approaching it, we first saw the
Red Forester of Port Essington (Osphanter antilopinus, GOULD). The
longitude, according to my reckoning, was 136 degrees.
Oct. 2.--We travelled about eleven miles north by west, to lat. 15
degrees 25 minutes 18 seconds, over an undulating country, if possible
even worse than that of the last two stages. Low sandy rises were covered
with stringy-bark trees and saplings, and the depressions were either
thickly beset with different species of Acacia, of Pultanaea, of the
broad-stemmed Bossiaea, or formed shallow basins of red ironstone covered
and surrounded with tea-tree scrub. On the higher elevations, the
Cypress-pine thickets proved even worse than the scrub. We crossed only
one sandy little creek, and came, at the end of the stage, to the head of
a small Pandanus creek, which improved rapidly, and, a little way down,
contained fine Nymphaea ponds. Charley went still farther down, and, in
an old camp of the natives, found Cythereas and the head of a crocodile.
It was during this stage, and among the scrub and underwood of the sandy
hills, that we first met with Grevillea pungens (R. Br.), a shrub from
two to five feet high, with pale-green pinnatifid pungent leaves, and
racemes of red flowers. Flagellaria indica, L. was very abundant near the
creek; and our bullocks fed heartily upon it: particularly in this most
wretched country, where the grass was scanty and hard.
Although the days were exceedingly hot, the air immediately before and
after sunrise was most agreeable.
Oct. 3.--We travelled about six miles and a half north by west, over a
country equally scrubby as that of the preceding stage. The saplings had
been killed by a bush fire, and a hurricane, which must have swept over
the country some years ago, had broken and uprooted the larger trees,
which lay all to the west and north-west. Since then, saplings had sprung
up, and, with the remains of the old trees, formed a most impervious
scrubby thicket, through which we could move but very slowly. About a
mile from our camp, we crossed a salt-water creek nine or ten yards
broad. There was some vine brush, with plenty of Flagellarias, growing
along its banks. A little farther, we crossed a freshwater creek, which
was larger than the preceding. Both appeared to come from some
conspicuous ranges, about six or eight miles to the westward. About five
miles farther, we encamped on a sandy creek with fine pools of water.
Oct. 4.--We were obliged to remain here, as the horses, not finding
sufficient food in the neighbourhood of the camp, had strayed so far
through the scrub, that they were not found before 2 o'clock in the
afternoon, when it was too late to proceed.
Oct. 5.--We continued our course north by west, through a similar
wretched country, and, at the end of about six miles, came to some hills,
on the north side of a broad sandy creek, from which we distinguished the
white sands of the sea coast, and the white crest of breakers rolling
towards the land. In the bed of the creek as well as on its banks, the
back bones of cuttle-fish were numerous. Charley and John went down to
the beach, and brought back several living salt-water shells. I proceeded
up the creek in a south-west direction, and came, at about three miles,
to some pools of good water, with a tolerable supply of young feed. The
range we had seen yesterday, was still about eight or ten miles distant,
tending from S.S.E. to N.N.W.; it was steep and naked, and was composed
of a white rock which proved to be a baked sandstone, nearly resembling
quartzite in its homogeneous texture.
Oct. 6.--One of our bullocks had become so weak that he was unable to
carry his load; it was, therefore, put on one of our spare horses, which
were still in excellent condition. I steered for one of the detached
mountains at the northern end of the range, and travelled about twelve
miles north-west, before we came to its foot. We had, however, to leave
our bullock on the way, as the difficult nature of the country and
diarrhoea together had completely exhausted him. Scrub and dense
underwood continued over a rather undulating country to the foot of the
range, which was itself covered with open forest. We passed through a gap
between the last two hills of the range, and Charley and Brown, whom I
had sent forward in different directions, and who had both been on the
highest hill, stated that they had distinctly seen an island in the sea;
which could be no other than that marked Cape Maria in Arrowsmith's map.
They had also seen a large river to the northward, coming from the west;
and clearly distinguished large sandy plains extending along it as far as
the eye could reach. At the west side of the range, we soon came to a
small salt-water creek with small sandy and sometimes boggy Salicornia
plains, surrounded with the scrubby salt-water tea-tree, which possessed
an odour very much resembling that of a Blackfellow. We proceeded about
six miles to the southward, when the country became more open, with an
abundance of fine young feed for our horses and cattle. The water was
slightly brackish, and, strange enough, it became more so the higher we
went up the creek.
Whilst we were at our last camp, Charley met a long file of native women
returning, with their dillies and baskets full of shell fish, to the
range; near which, very probably, fresh water existed. We saw their
numerous tracks, and a footpath leading to the river; and heard their
cooees round our present camp, which may have interfered with one of
their camping places. Our lat. was 15 degrees 14 minutes.
Oct. 7.--John and Charley went back to fetch the bullock, and, in the
mean time, I occupied myself in examining our packs, in order to dispense
with such things as were least necessary; for, with an additional weight
of 130 pounds of dried meat and hide, our pack bullocks were overloaded,
and it was now imperative upon me to travel as lightly as possible. Thus
I parted with my paper for drying plants, with my specimens of wood, with
a small collection of rocks, made by Mr. Gilbert, and with all the
duplicates of our zoological specimens. Necessity alone, which compelled
me to take this step, reconciled me to the loss.
Our bullock came in during the afternoon, and was immediately killed,
skinned, and quartered.
Oct. 8.--We cut the meat into slices, and put them out to dry.
Oct. 9.--I went with Brown to examine the country along the river, which
I called "Limmen Bight River;" from its disemboguing into Limmen Bight.
Charley had been at the upper part of the creek on which we were
encamped, and found it running and fresh; which made me believe, that
those pools of very brackish water we had previously seen, belonged to a
different watercourse. I rode with Brown to the westward, over a
succession of ironstone ridges covered with stringy-bark scrub. These
ridges formed steep headlands into the broad flat valley of the river.
Along the valley, bare sandy and boggy plains alternated with tea-tree
thickets and mangrove swamps, in one of which our horses got deeply
bogged. After five miles we came on a large piece of salt water, which,
according to Brown, was a tributary creek of the river. It flowed between
low banks fringed with tea-trees. We followed a foot-path of the natives,
who seemed very numerous, which led towards another range west by south;
and crossed several tea-tree creeks, Pandanus groves, and swamps full of
a high blady grass. We observed some springs, with but little water
however, though densely surrounded with ferns (Osmunda). After about
seven miles, we were stopped by a fern swamp full of fine box-trees, with
a thick jungle of high stiff grasses and ferns (Blechnum). A small
running creek formed its outlet, and contained a chain of deep ponds
covered with Nymphaeas, and surrounded with Typha (bull-rush), the
youngest part of the leaves of which is very tolerable eating. Large
swarms of ducks (Leptotarsis Eytoni, GOULD), rose with their peculiar
whistling noise, at our approach.
Oct. 10.--I moved my camp to the chain of lagoons, which we found
yesterday; and our horses and cattle enjoyed the fine feed. The largest
hill of the range to the westward, bore south-west from our camp. A
species of Hibiscus with large pink flowers, but small insignificant
leaves, and another small malvaceous shrub with white flowers grew round
the camp.
Oct. 11.--Last night we saw long flights of geese (Anseranas melanoleuca,
GOULD) and swarms of ducks, passing our camp from west to east; which
made us very naturally suppose that large lagoons of fresh water existed
at the head of the fern swamp, of which our little Typha brook formed the
outlet. Brown and Charley were very desirous of getting some of these
geese, and concocted a plan either to induce me to follow the brook up,
or to stop me altogether. Not knowing their intentions, I sent Brown
after the cattle, and Charley to find a crossing place. They met,
however, at those supposed lagoons, and amused themselves in shooting
geese, and (after having probably enjoyed an off-hand dinner of roasted
goose) they returned at 2 o'clock, complaining of course, that the cattle
had strayed very far. Though I had been very much annoyed by waiting so
long, I was pleased in finding that they had shot four geese. In order,
however, to show my sable companions that their secret manoeuvres only
tended to increase their own labour, I ordered the bullocks to be loaded
immediately they arrived, and proceeded to get out of this intricate
country as soon as possible. We travelled west by north, over a tolerable
open country, leaving the salt-water plains to the right, and crossed
several well beaten foot-paths, and a sort of play ground on which the
natives seem to have danced and crawled about, as it bore the impressions
of both hands and feet. After four miles, we came to a broad salt-water
creek, the high banks of which were covered with numerous heaps of
Cytherea shells, which had lived in the mud of the creek. We followed it
up about a mile, when it ended in a hollow coming from the range. After
passing this, our course was intercepted by another large creek, which
compelled us to go to the south and even to south-east along the western
side of the range which we had seen from Typha brook. We followed it up
about two miles, and found some ponds of slightly brackish water, in
which, however, Nymphaea grew, and several small freshwater fish lived;
and near them the track of a crocodile was observed by Charley. Open
country alternated with thick Acacia underwood along this creek, and its
grass was still coarse and blady. Many gullies came down from the range;
which was composed of baked sandstone, with not very distinct
stratification, and irregularly broken blocks. At a lagoon which we
passed in the commencement of the stage, Brown shot three more geese;
thus disclosing to us the haunts of those numerous flights we had seen.
We roasted four of our geese for dinner, and they formed by far the most
delicious dish our expedition had offered: the others were stewed for the
next breakfast; and they were equally good: though a whole night's
stewing might have robbed them of a little of their rich flavour.
We had frequently observed the flight of waterfowl, at the commencement
of night, and a little before dawn. At Cycas Creek, Spoonbills, Ibises,
and Whistling ducks came at night fall to the fresh water, and left it in
the morning. The geese flew past at night from an open lagoon to the
westward, to more confined ponds at the head of the fern swamp to the
eastward. It would appear that they prefer a sheltered situation for the
night, and large open sheets of water by day.
The nights were usually dewy, in consequence of the moist sea breeze,
which blew almost the whole day from east and E. N. E., and set in
frequently as early as 9 or 10 o'clock. The morning, from about 7 o'clock
till the sea breeze set in, was exceedingly hot; but, before sunrise, it
was most delightful; the myriads of flies which crowded round us during
the day, and the mosquitoes which annoyed us after sunset, were then
benumbed; and although the sun rose with the full intensity of its heat,
it was not so inconvenient in the early morn as to induce us to look for
shade. Not a breath was stirring; and the notes of the laughing jackass
and some few small birds, alone showed that there were other beings
enjoying the beauty of this august solitude.
Oct. 12.--We proceeded three or four miles up the creek, and found a
crossing at a fishing place of the natives; in an old camping place near
this fishery, I saw a long funnel-shaped fish trap, made of the flexible
stem of Flagellaria. Hence we travelled about north-west by west, towards
a fine mountain range, which yesterday bore W. N. W. After six miles of
undulating scrubby country, and broad-leaved tea-tree forest, we arrived
at a creek with a fine pool of water, which, notwithstanding its
Nymphaeas, Charas, and Typhas, was slightly brackish and bitter. Limnaea,
and two species of Melania, were found in it; the one species, with a
long sharp spire, had been found in a reedy brook, at the upper Burdekin.
Limmen Bight river was not half a mile from our camp; and I now hoped
that we should soon be out of the system of salt-water creeks joining it
from the southward.
Our lat. was 15 degrees 13 minutes (?) and longitude, according to
reckoning, 135 degrees 30 minutes. We had left the stiff grasses of the
coast, and the pasture was fast improving. John Murphy shot the Torres
Straits pigeon (Carpophaga luctuosa, GOULD) which we had once before
observed; but it was exceedingly shy and rare, and only seen in pairs.
Oct. 13.--We travelled about sixteen miles to the southward, to lat. 15
degrees 29 minutes 10 seconds, following the river, and heading several
salt water creeks, which prolonged our journey very much. Stony hills and
ranges frequently approached the river, and rendered our travelling
difficult and fatiguing. They were composed of baked sandstone, and white
and blue indurated clay, the strata of which dipped at a very small angle
to the southward, and the strike from east to west. The flats between the
ranges, and along the river and creeks, were openly timbered and well
grassed; and, at the head of a salt-water creek, we found deep ponds of
constant water covered with Nymphaeas, and surrounded with Typhas and
drooping tea-trees. Towards the end of the stage, where the high rocky
hills formed deep declivities into the river, we had to ascend them, and
to travel along their summits. A good sized creek joined the river at
their southern slopes, which, though salt below, contained some good
pools of fresh water higher up. To the southward of this creek, there
were four very remarkable flat-topped cones of sandstone, which appeared
like a plateau cut into four detached masses. These I called the "Four
Archers," in honour of my excellent hosts Messrs. David, Charles, John,
and Thomas Archer of Moreton Bay. From the eastern one, I enjoyed a fine
view, and distinguished distant ranges broken by a gap to the southward,
and detached long-stretched ridges to the westward.
I went with Charley to examine the river, in order to find a fording
place, in which we succeeded at about four miles south-west from our
camp, in lat. 15 degrees 30 minutes 31 seconds; where a stony bar crossed
the salt water, leaving a small channel in which the tide formed a
shallow stream. The bed of the river became very broad and sandy, covered
with shrubs like those of the Lynd and most of the other rivers we had
passed.
Oct. 14.--We crossed the river, and travelled about ten miles north-west,
over a succession of stony ridges, separated by fine open tea-tree and
box flats. Some fine shallow sandy watercourses, quite dry, went down to
the north by east. At the end of the stage, the uniform colour of the
country was interrupted by the green line of a river-bed, so pleasing and
so refreshing to the eye, with the rich verdure of its drooping tea-trees
and myrtles, interspersed with the silver leaves of Acacia neurocarpa and
Grevillea chrysodendron. The river was formed by two broad sandy beds,
separated by a high bergue, and was full 700 yards from bank to bank. It
contained large detached water-pools fringed with Pandanus, which were
very probably connected by a stream filtering through the sands, I called
it the "Wickham," in honour of Captain Wickham, R.N. of Moreton Bay, who
had recently commanded a survey of the north-west coast of New Holland,
in H.M.S. Beagle.
The red wallabi (Halmaturus agilis, GOULD) was very numerous along the
gullies of the river: and we started a flock of red foresters (Osphranter
Antilopinus, GOULD) out of a patch of scrub on the brow of a stony hill.
Charley and Brown, accompanied by Spring, pursued them, and killed a fine
young male. I had promised my companions that, whenever a kangaroo was
caught again, it should be roasted whole, whatever its size might be. We
had consequently a roasted Red Forester for supper, and we never rolled
ourselves up in our blankets more satisfied with a repast.
Brown found a Eugenia, with large white blossoms and large coriaceous
oblong lanceolate shining leaves; it was a tree of thirty or forty feet
high, with a grey bark, and a good hard wood. It was growing at the upper
part of the creek on which we were encamped last night. Its fruit was two
inches in diameter, with longitudinal ribs, scarlet red, and very eatable
when dropt from the tree, but when gathered on the tree, it had an
aromatic pungency. This tree was very common along the well watered
creeks of Arnheim's Land; particularly along the South Alligator River,
and at Raffles Bay. Brown brought from the same locality a Melastoma,
which, according to him, was a shrub, three or four feet high.
Oct. 15.--We continued our journey in a north-west direction. The first
five or six miles was over a succession of very lightly timbered
box-flats, alternating with small plains. They were bounded by scrubs and
ranges, which we crossed, and from the top of one obtained the view of a
remarkable system of parallel ranges, all steep mountain walls of a white
colour indicating the nature of their rock, and separated from each other
by perfectly level flats covered with broad leaved tea-tree forest. At
their foot a richer tree vegetation existed, principally composed of the
leguminous Ironbark, Blood-wood, and Pandanus. The darker verdure of
these trees, which we also observed at the foot of the most distant
range, made us believe that a river was near it. After travelling about
five miles over a flat, we crossed a broad sandy creek, which we did not
follow, although beaten foot-paths of the natives led down it, as we
firmly believed that a river was before us. At five miles farther, we
came to the foot of the range, which rose suddenly from the level
country, and, although a small watercourse existed in the tea-tree flat,
our anticipated river proved to be like the Dutchman's "Cape Fly-away."
In ascending the range, our poor bullocks suffered severely, and, when we
reached the summit, they stood panting with their tongues hanging out of
their mouths; I therefore halted a short time, to allow them to recover.
The east slopes of all these ranges were steep, but to the north-west
they were very gentle, and covered with stringy-bark forest. A long
succession of similar ranges was seen to the north-west. A small
watercourse brought us to a creek containing large but dry water-holes.
Finding that it turned to the eastward, round the range we had just
crossed, and that it almost disappeared in the scrubby tea-tree flats, we
turned to the northward, passed several more ridges, and encamped long
after sunset, near a dry but promising creek, without water. I
immediately sent Mr. Calvert and Charley down the creek, in search of
water, and they returned, towards midnight, with the welcome intelligence
that they had found some fine pools.
I had been absent during the latter part of the stage, and most
unfortunately our kangaroo dog had been left behind, whereby this most
valuable animal was lost. He had been the means of our obtaining so much,
and indeed the greatest part of our game, that his loss was severely felt
by us.
Our lat. was 15 degrees 10 minutes.
Oct. 16.--We travelled down to the water, about four miles north-east
along the creek, which was covered with Cypress pine thickets, and
tea-tree scrub. Mr. Calvert and Charley returned on our tracks to
endeavour to recover our poor dog. They found him almost dead,--stretched
out in the deep cattle track, which he seemed not to have quitted, even
to find a shady place. They brought him to the camp; and I put his whole
body, with the exception of his head, under water, and bled him; he lived
six hours longer, when he began to bark, as if raving, and to move his
legs slightly, as dogs do when dreaming. It seemed that he died of
inflammation of the brain. If we become naturally fond of animals which
share with us the comforts of life, and become the cheerful companions of
our leisure hours, our attachment becomes still greater when they not
only share in our sufferings, but aid greatly to alleviate them. The
little world of animated beings, with which we moved on, was constantly
before our eyes; and each individual the constant object of our
attention. We became so familiar with every one of them, that the
slightest change in their walk, or in their looks was readily observed;
and the state of their health anxiously interpreted. Every bullock, every
horse, had its peculiar character, its well defined individuality, which
formed the frequent topic of our conversation, in which we all most
willingly joined, because every one was equally interested. My readers
will, therefore, easily understand my deep distress when I saw myself, on
recent occasions, compelled to kill two of our favourite bullocks long
before their time; and when our poor dog died, which we all had fondly
hoped to bring to the end of our journey. Brown had, either by accident,
or influenced by an unconscious feeling of melancholy, fallen into the
habit of almost constantly whistling and humming the soldier's death
march, which had such a singularly depressing effect on my feelings, that
I was frequently constrained to request him to change his tune.
Oct. 17.--We travelled about eighteen miles N. N. W. over an undulating
country, in which Cypress-pine thickets alternated with scrubby
stringy-bark forest, and some tea-tree flats. After seven miles, we
crossed a large dry creek, which went to the eastward; and, eight miles
further, we entered upon a fine box-flat, with hills to the north and
north-west. We followed a very promising Pandanus creek, in which the
presence of Typha (flag, or bulrush) and a new species of Sesbania
indicated the recent presence of water. Mr. Roper having ascended one of
the hills, and seen a green valley with a rich vegetation about three
miles to the northward, we in consequence left the creek, which turned to
the eastward; and, after passing several miles of most wretched scrub,
came into an open country, with scattered groves of trees. As the sun was
setting, I resolved upon encamping in an open plain, although without
water, except what we carried in our large stew-pot. Charley, who had
been sent forward, had not yet joined us; I, therefore, ordered two guns
to be fired, to let him know where we were; he immediately answered us
from a short distance, where he lighted up a cheerful fire. After some
time, during which misfortune and carelessness had played us the trick of
upsetting our waterpot, Charley arrived with the welcome news that he had
found some water-holes in a small creek; we therefore, at moonrise, again
saddled our tired animals, and repaired thither.
The day had been exceedingly hot; but the passing shadows of cumuli which
formed in the afternoon, occasionally afforded us a delightful relief.
The sea breeze was strong, particularly towards evening; but the dense
scrub and forest kept it from us during the day.
Oct. 18.--I stopped at the water-holes, to allow our cattle to recover.
It was a lovely place. The country around us was very open, and agreeably
diversified by small clusters of the raspberry-jam tree. Salicornia and
Binoe's Trichinium indicated the neighbourhood of salt water; but the
grass was good and mostly young. The creek was shaded by drooping
tea-trees and the broad-leaved Terminalia, which also grew scattered over
the flats. The water-hole on which we were encamped was about four feet
deep, and contained a great number of guard-fish, which, in the morning,
kept incessantly springing from the water. A small broad fish with sharp
belly, and a long ray behind the dorsal fin, was also caught. It was
highly amusing to watch the swarms of little finches, of doves, and
Ptilotis, which came during the heat of the day to drink from our water
hole. Grallina australis, Crows, Kites, Bronze-winged and Harlequin
pigeons, (Peristera histrionica, GOULD), the Rose cockatoo (Cocatua Eos),
the Betshiregah (Melopsittacus undulatus), and Trichoglossus versicolor,
GOULD, were also visitors to the water-hole, or were seen on the plains.
The day was oppressively hot; and neither the drooping tea-trees, nor our
blankets, of which we had made a shade, afforded us much relief Clouds
gathered, however, in the afternoon, and we had a few drops of rain in
the course of the night and following morning. Charley and John had gone
out on horseback to obtain some emus, with which the country seemed to
abound; they returned, however, at night, without any emus, but brought
in about twenty-two whistling and black ducks, one goose and several
waders, which they had obtained at a lagoon which was several miles in
length, and varied from 50 to 300 yards in breadth, covered with
Nymphaeas, and fringed with a dense vegetation; it was surrounded by fine
pasture. Never, as they described, had they seen so many ducks and geese
together; when they rose, their numbers darkened the air, and their noise
was deafening. They had observed a wooden post, cut with an iron
tomahawk, rammed in the ground and propped with several large stones;
which seemed to be the work either of white men or Malays.
Oct. 19.--We travelled about four miles north 30 degrees west, over
plains and an open undulating box and raspberry jam tree country, to the
lagoon which my companions had discovered. They had not exaggerated their
account, neither of the beauty of the country, nor of the size of the
lagoon, nor of the exuberance of animal life on it. It was indeed quite a
novel spectacle to us to see such myriads of ducks and geese rise and fly
up and down the lagoon, as we travelled along. Casuarinas, drooping
tea-trees, the mangrove myrtle (Stravadium) and raspberry-jam trees, grew
either on the flats, or formed open groves along the banks; and
Polygonums covered the water's edge. When we came to the end of the
lagoon, which was bounded on the left by a stony rise of flaggy Psammite,
I observed a green belt of trees scarcely 300 yards to the northward; and
on riding towards it, I found myself on the banks of a large fresh water
river from 500 to 800 yards broad, with not very high banks, densely
covered with salt water Hibiscus (Paritium), with a small rubiaceous tree
(Pavetta?), which filled the air with the jasmine-like fragrance of its
blossoms; with Flagellaria, water Pandanus, and a leguminous climber with
bunches of large green blossoms (Mucuna?--D.C. Pr.). The water was
slightly muddy, as if a fresh had come down the river; and the tide rose
full three feet. It was the river Mr. Roper had seen two days before, and
I named it after him, as I had promised to do. The country along its left
bank was well-grassed and openly timbered with box; hills were on the
opposite side. Its course was from north-west to south-east; but this
seemed to be rather local. Natives seemed to be numerous; for their
foot-path along the lagoon was well beaten; we passed several of their
fisheries, and observed long fishtraps made of Flagellaria (rattan). All
the cuts on various trees were made with an iron tomahawk. Natives,
crows, and kites were always the indications of a good country. Charley,
Brown, and John, who had been left at the lagoon to shoot waterfowl,
returned with twenty ducks for luncheon, and went out again during the
afternoon to procure more for dinner and breakfast. They succeeded in
shooting thirty-one ducks and two geese; so that we had fifty-one ducks
and two geese for the three meals; and they were all eaten, with the
exception of a few bony remains, which some of the party carried to the
next camp. If we had had a hundred ducks, they would have been eaten
quite as readily, if such an extravagant feast had been permitted.
Oct. 20.--We travelled about ten miles N. 60 degrees W. up the river; and
I was fortunate enough to determine my latitude by an observation of
Alpheratz, which cloudy nights had prevented me from obtaining since the
15th October: it was 14 degrees 47 minutes; my longitude, according to
reckoning, was 135 degrees 10 minutes. The river continued equally broad,
with a fine open box-tree country on its right, whilst a range of hills
with several bluff breaks extended along the left side, interrupted
occasionally by some openings of small creeks, and, in one place, by the
valley of a small river, which Brown saw joining it from the northward.
We followed a broad foot-path of the natives, which cut the angles of the
river, and passed along several large lagoons at the foot of some low
sandstone ridges, that occasionally approached the river, which was
joined by some brushy creeks, one of which was of a considerable size.
The box-trees were of stunted growth, but the raspberry-jam trees were
still abundant and larger than usual. The grass was plentiful, but old
and dry. The lagoons were covered with ducks, geese, and pelicans; and
native companions were strutting about on the patches of fresh burnt
grass. Brown pursued two emus, and caught one of them. Wallabies were
numerous; two bustards, and even a crocodile were seen. A small lizard or
newt was observed on the mud between high and low water marks. The green
ant of the Lynd inhabited the shady trees of the brushy banks; and, in
the forest, brick coloured and black ants were numerous and troublesome.
A strong easterly wind was blowing during the day, and no cumuli formed.
Camps of the natives were frequent, and fresh burnings and fresh
mussel-shells showed that they had been lately at the lagoons. But, on
the river, the camps were older and not so numerous, and no burnings had
lately taken place.
Oct. 21.--After waiting a very long time for our horses, Charley came and
brought the dismal tidings that three of the most vigorous of them were
drowned, at the junction of the creek with the river. Although the banks
of the Roper were steep and muddy, the large creek we had passed was
scarcely two miles distant, and offered an easy approach to the water on
a rocky bed. It remained, therefore, inexplicable to us how the accident
could have happened.
This disastrous event staggered me, and for a moment I turned almost
giddy; but there was no help. Unable to increase the load of my bullocks,
I was obliged to leave that part of my botanical collection which had
been carried by one of the horses. The fruit of many a day's work was
consigned to the fire; and tears were in my eyes when I saw one of the
most interesting results of my expedition vanish into smoke. Mr.
Gilbert's small collection of plants, which I had carefully retained
hitherto, shared the same fate. But they were of less value, as they were
mostly in a bad state of preservation, from being too much crowded. My
collection had the great advantage of being almost complete in blossoms,
fruit, and seed, which I was enabled to ensure in consequence of the long
duration of our expedition, and of the comparative uniformity of the
Australian Flora.
I left the unfortunate place, and travelled about six miles up the river,
which kept a W. N. W. course. Open box-flats were bounded by ridges two
or three miles from the river. At the opposite side, ranges were seen
with some rocky bluff hills. Charley shot a bustard.
Oct. 22.--We travelled about seven miles to the westward, when we came to
a broad creek, which compelled us to go five miles to the southward in
order to cross it. The country was still a succession of box-flats along
the river, with rocky barren ranges in the distance; the latter, however,
approached so near the creek, that we found it difficult to pass along.
About two miles and a-half from our last camp, we had to cross a running
Casuarina brook, which, though very small, was so boggy, that two of our
horses were again in great danger of being lost.
Last night we heard the calls of natives at the opposite side of the
river. As soon as they saw us, they crossed the river, and came pretty
close to us: the discharge of our guns, however, kept them at a distance.
Several of our party, during their watches saw them moving with fire
sticks on the other side of the river. In the morning, three of them came
boldly up; so I went to them with some presents, and they became very
friendly indeed. Presents were exchanged; and they invited us in the most
pressing manner to accompany them to their camp; and were evidently
disappointed in finding that we could not swim. I gave them horse-nails,
and they asked me to bend them into fish-hooks. They had doubtless seen
or heard of white people before; but of our horses and bullocks they were
much afraid, and asked me whether they could bite: they accompanied me,
however, pretty near to the camp; but kept their arms round my waist, to
be sure of not being bitten. As we proceeded on our journey, they
followed us for a long distance, and offered Charley and Brown a gin, if
we would go to their camp. They were circumcised, and two front teeth had
been knocked out; they had horizontal scars on their chests.
A great number of flying-foxes (Pteropus) were in the river brush, and
Brown shot three of them.
The days were cloudless and very hot; the east wind was strong during the
afternoon; the nights very cool and pleasant, but without dew.
Oct. 23.--This morning, our sable friends came again to our camp; they
made their approach known by a slight whistling. We invited them to come
nearer, and many new faces were introduced to us. Of three young people,
one was called "Gnangball," the other "Odall," and a boy "Nmamball."
These three names were given to many others, and probably distinguished
three different tribes or families. We gave them sheets of paper on which
the figures of kangaroos, emus, and fish were drawn. When we were loading
our bullocks, a whole mob came up with great noise; and one of them
danced and jumped about with incessant vociferations, flourishing his
wommerah, crowned with a tuft of opossum's hair, like a Drum-major; I put
a broken girth round his waist, which seemed to tranquillize him
wonderfully. In drinking water out of my pot, I offered it to my friend;
but he hesitated to follow my example, until he applied to an elderly,
bearded, serious-looking man, who sipped of it, and then my friend
ventured to taste its contents. When we started on our journey they
followed us with many remarks for a very long way, until we came again to
the river; when their appetites probably compelled them to return to
their camp; but not before inviting us to accompany them thither, and
giving us to understand that they had plenty to eat. On leaving us, they
pointed down the river, and repeated the word "Aroma!" "Aroma!"
About three miles to the westward of our camp, the water ceased, and the
creek formed a dry sandy bed, covered with Casuarinas; it was joined by
two Pandanus creeks with steep deep channels, and well provided with
water-holes. I had to go down the creek four miles, in order to avoid
some steep rocky ranges; but we turned afterwards to the northward, and
travelled, over an open well-grassed country, to the river: it was,
however, full of melon-holes and very stony. Ranges and high rocky ridges
were seen in every direction. From one of them a pillar of smoke was
rising, like a signal fire. The extensive burnings, and the number of our
sable visitors, showed that the country was well inhabited. About four or
five miles from the last creek,--which I shall call "Hodgson's Creek," in
honour of Pemberton Hodgson, Esq.--the river divided into two almost
equal branches, one coming from the northward, and the other from
north-west by west. I named the river from the northward the "Wilton,"
after the Rev. Mr. Wilton of Newcastle, who kindly favoured my
expedition. Its latitude was about 14 degrees 45 minutes.
About three miles above the junction of the Wilton with the Roper, we
again encamped on the steep banks of the latter, at a spot which I
thought would allow our horses and cattle to approach in safety. One
unfortunate animal, however, slipped into the water, and every effort to
get him out was made in vain. Its constant attempts to scramble up the
boggy banks only tired it, and as night advanced, we had to wait until
the tide rose again. I watched by him the whole night, and at high water
we succeeded in getting him out of the water; but he began to plunge
again, and unfortunately broke the tether which had kept his forequarters
up, and fell back into the river. At last I found a tolerable landing
place about fifty yards higher up; but, as I was swimming with him up to
it, and trying to lead him clear of the stumps of trees, he became
entangled in the tether rope by which I guided him, rolled over, and was
immediately drowned. This reduced our number of horses to nine. When the
other horses were brought to the camp, another rushed into the water, but
I swam with him at once to the good landing place, and we succeeded in
saving him.
I. started late on the 24th Oct. and travelled over a country similar to
that of our late stages. About a mile up the river, a ledge of rocks
crossed the bed, over which a considerable stream formed a small fall and
rapids; above this was a fine sheet of water, overhung with shady
tea-trees, Casuarinas, and Pandanus, which made this crossing place
extremely lovely. My grief at having lost an excellent horse which I had
ridden for the greatest part of the journey, was increased by now knowing
that one mile more travelling would have saved him to me. The northern
banks of the river were at first open: but they soon became bounded
either by isolated, or chains of, rocky hills. These hills separated the
valley of the river from an open well grassed, but extremely stony back
country; from which creeks carried the water down to the river, through
gaps and openings between the hills. To the northward of this back
country, other ranges ran parallel to those along the river, from
northwest by west to south-east by east, and shorter ranges joined them
occasionally. The whole country was composed of sandstone and indurated
clay, with very distinct stratification. The layers of clay were white,
grey, or slate-coloured; with many shining leaflets of mica.
The days were very hot; the east-breeze very strong during the afternoon,
and particularly towards sunset; the nights were warm, clear, and without
dew.
Some sheldrakes and wallabies were seen, and a bustard was shot by
Charley: large fish were splashing in the water. I gathered the large
vine-bean, with green blossoms, which had thick pods containing from one
to five seeds. Its hard covering, by roasting, became very brittle; and I
pounded the cotyledons, and boiled them for several hours. This softened
them, and made a sort of porridge, which, at all events, was very
satisfying. Judging by the appearance of large stones which were
frequently found, in the camps of the natives, still covered with the
mealy particles of some seed which had been pounded upon them, it would
seem that the natives used the same bean; but I could not ascertain how
they were able to soften them. It did not make good coffee; and, when
boiled in an iron pot, the water became very dark. Our latitude was 14
degrees 44 seconds.
Oct. 25.--We travelled about seven miles northwest to lat. 14 degrees 39
minutes, following the river in its various windings over more than
twelve miles. The country was well grassed, and openly timbered with
white gum, box, and leguminous Ironbark; but occasionally broken by deep
gullies, which were fringed with the articulate-podded Acacia (Inga
moniliformis), and the broad-leaved Terminalia. Several ranges with rocky
slopes approached or bounded the river; and three remarkable bluff hills,
two on its right, and one on its left side, formed characteristic
landmarks. Their summits were surrounded by perpendicular precipices,
from the foot of which steep rocky, but uniform slopes went down to the
level country. Thick high reeds covered the approaches of the river, and
the lower parts of the gullies; and noble Casuarinas rivalled the
drooping tea-tree in beauty. Grevillea pungens (R. Br.) was observed on
the hills; it is, therefore, not particular to the coast scrub. A species
of native tobacco, with smaller blossoms than that of the Hunter, and
with its radical leaves spreading close over the ground, was growing on
the open spaces round the water-holes. The river was well supplied with
long reaches of water connected by a small stream.
In the morning, we had a pleasant westerly breeze, which veered to the
north-west and northward; the regular sea breeze set in from the
northeast in the afternoon; the night was hot and sultry; but the weather
during the day was cooler than that we experienced for the last week.
The red wallabies were very numerous, particularly in the kind of jungle
along the river. Sheldrakes and Ibises abounded at the water-holes.
Charley shot two wallabies.
Oct. 26.--We enjoyed most gratefully our two wallabies, which were
stewed, and to which I had added some green hide to render the broth more
substantial. This hide was almost five months old, and had served as a
case to my botanical collection, which, unfortunately, I had been
compelled to leave behind. It required, however, a little longer stewing
than a fresh hide, and was rather tasteless.
We accomplished about eight miles in a straight line to the westward, but
went over a much greater extent of ground; as I mistook a large though
dry creek from the northward for the river, and followed it about four
miles; when, finding my mistake, I crossed about four or five miles of
rich treeless plains, and reached the river again at the foot of a long
high range to the westward. Other ranges appeared to the eastward and
northward. As we approached the river, we passed some sandstone hills
covered with a dense scrub exactly like that of the sea coast south of
Limmen Bight. It was principally composed of several species of Acacia of
Grevillea chrysodendron (R. Br.), and of the Bossiaea with broad stem.
All along the outside of the scrub, we observed old camps of the natives;
several of whom were seen crossing the plains.
The bed of the river became excessively wild: the Pandanus channel was
still full of water, and running; but the dry bed was full of rocky
water-holes or chains of them, composed of, and scattered over with
blocks of sandstone; and overgrown with most magnificent Casuarinas, with
tea-trees and flooded-gum (or its representative).
Large camps of the natives were full of the shells of lately roasted
mussels (Unios), the posterior part of which appeared to be much broader,
and more sinuated, than those we had hitherto seen. John and Charley
found the head of an alligator; and the former caught the broad-scaled
fish of the Mackenzie (Osteoglossum), which weighed four pounds. The
mosquitoes, and a little black ant, were very annoying during the warm
but slightly dewy night.
As we were slowly winding our way among the loose rocks, Brown's horse
got knocked up, and we were compelled to encamp. After the disasters
which had lately befallen us, I became more alive to the chances to which
we were exposed, even more so than after Mr. Gilbert's death; up to which
time we had travelled more than a thousand miles, without any great
misfortune. At the commencement of our journey, the cooee of my
companions, who were driving the bullocks and horses after me, had
generally called me back to assist in re-loading one of our restive
beasts, or to mend a broken packsaddle, and to look for the scattered
straps. This was certainly very disagreeable and fatiguing; but it was
rather in consequence of an exuberance of animal spirits, and did not
interfere with the hope of a prosperous progress: but, since leaving the
Seven Emu River, these calls invariably acquainted me with the failing
strength of our poor brutes; and knowing only too well the state of
exhaustion in which they were, I was almost constantly expecting to be
reminded of it, as I was riding along, which rendered me extremely
nervous and restless. The death of our spare horses did not allow us any
more to relieve the others by alternate rests, and we became soon aware
of their increasing weakness. This was considerably aggravated by the
necessity under which we were of keeping two horses tethered near the
camp, not only to facilitate the finding of the others in the morning,
but to form a defence against a possible attack of the natives.
Oct. 27.--We travelled about seven miles up the river, to lat. 14 degrees
40 minutes in a W.S.W. course: and to long. 134 degrees 16 minutes,
according to my reckoning. The range still continued along the right bank
of the river; and, at length, when it ceased, another range commenced at
the left bank. Here the aspect of the country changed very agreeably.
Fine, well grassed plains of moderate size extended along the river, and
between its numerous anabranches: for the river divided into several
Pandanus channels, either running or with chains of water-holes. These
plains were bounded by a range trending east and west, about two or three
miles from the left bank of the river. Smoke was seen beyond it. Mr.
Roper met and spoke with three natives, who did not appear to be afraid
of him. Another of our horses became knocked up, and compelled us to
encamp very early in the day, and, as they were all much exhausted, I
allowed them to feed at large, without taking the usual precaution of
keeping two tethered, in the event of being surprised by the natives.
That this was intentionally taken advantage of seemed probable; for,
after night-fall, at the commencement of Charley's watch, four natives
sneaked up to the camp, and were preparing to throw their spears, when
they were seen by Charley, who immediately gave the alarm. We got up
instantly, but they had disappeared, and no one but Charley saw anything
of them. I should have been inclined to consider it a hoax, had I not
heard their distant cooees as late as 9 o'clock, when I silenced them by
the discharge of a gun.
Oct. 28.--We travelled ten miles in a north-west direction, to lat. 14
degrees 33 minutes. When we had followed the green belt of the river near
four miles, Charley, who had been sent to shoot some ducks, returned, and
reported that we were near the head of the river; and that he had
discovered water bubbling out of the ground at the foot of a slight rise.
We now followed the direction of some smoke which rose behind a large
mountain; passing on our way, over an undulating country clothed with a
forest of the broad-leaved tea-tree; and a scrubby flat with large
melon-holes fringed with raspberry-jam trees; and through a gap between
two high ranges, in which there was a small dry creek that turned to the
north-east. From a large Polygonum water-hole which had recently become
dry, a swarm of whistling ducks rose, probably scared by our approach.
Two bustards were also seen. About three miles farther, we came to a
good-sized creek, up which we proceeded until we found a small pool of
water, which, after some digging, gave us a good supply. Charley had
found a fine pool about four miles higher up.
At this time, I was suffering from a great irritability of the skin, and
was covered all over with a prickly heat; the slightest pressure or
rubbing produced inflammation and boils, particularly about the knees:
and Mr. Phillips suffered in the same way, at the arm and elbow. Mr.
Gilbert had been subject to these boils when we were travelling at Peak
Range, and along the Isaacs; but, since that time until now, none of the
party had been inconvenienced by them.
Oct. 29.--We travelled about twelve miles N.N.W., and followed the creek
about four miles, to allow our cattle and horses to drink freely at the
water-hole discovered by Charley the day before. We passed some plains,
and through a broad-leaved tea-tree forest, and then skirted a thick
scrub, which covered the approaches of a range. After seven miles
travelling, we came to an immense flat lightly timbered with box and
broad-leaved tea-tree, and surrounded on every side, except the S.S.E.,
by high ranges, protruding like headlands into the plain. Upon passing
them afterwards, I found them to form undulating chains of baked
sandstone hills.
We crossed several small watercourses going to the north-east and east,
and came to a considerable creek, near which basalt cropped out. This was
the first igneous rock of more recent date, that we had met with since
leaving Separation Creek, and the upper Lynd. Even my Blackfellows
recognized at once the rock of Darling Downs; and we hailed it as the
harbinger of western waters. The whole country up the creek had been
lately burned, which induced me to follow it towards its head, in hope of
finding the place where the natives had procured water. The bed was
filled with basaltic boulders, as were also its dry holes, from one of
which the Grallina australis rose, and for the first time deceived our
expectations. In a wider part of the valley, I observed wells of the
natives dug in the creek, which we enlarged in the hope of their yielding
a sufficient supply of water; but in this we were mistaken, as barely
enough was obtained to quench our own thirst. Charley, however, in a
search up the creek, and after a long ramble, found a small pond and a
spring in a narrow mountain gorge, to which he had been guided by a
beaten track of Wallurus. Our horses and bullocks, which were crowding
impatiently round the little hole we had dug, were immediately harnessed,
and we proceeded about three miles in a north direction to the head of a
rocky valley, where our cattle were enabled at least to drink, but all
the grass had been consumed by a late bush fire.
The Acacia of Expedition Range was plentiful in the large flat and at the
wells of the natives, and formed a fine tree: its seeds, however, were
shed, and had been roasted by the late bush fire. Mr. Phillips (who was
always desirous of discovering substitutes for coffee, and to whom we
owed the use of the river-bean of the Mackenzie) collected these seeds,
and pounded and boiled them, and gave me the fluid to taste, which I
found so peculiarly bitter that I cautioned him against drinking it; his
natural desire, however, for warm beverage, which had been increased by a
whole day's travelling, induced him to swallow about a pint of it, which
made him very sick, and produced violent vomiting and purging during the
whole afternoon and night. The little I had tasted acted on me as a
lenient purgative, but Mr. Calvert, who had taken rather more than I did,
felt very sick. The gum of this Acacia was slightly acid, and very
harmless.
Oct. 30.--We travelled about four miles to the N.W. and N.N.W. along the
summit of rocky ranges, when a large valley bounded by high ranges to the
north and north-west, burst upon us. We descended into it by a steep and
rocky basaltic slope, and followed a creek which held a very tortuous
course to the south-west; we had travelled along it about seven miles,
when Charley was attracted by a green belt of trees, and by the late
burnings of the natives, and discovered a running rivulet, coming from
the N.N.W. It was fringed with Pandanus, Acacia (Inga monilifornis) and
with an arborescent Vitex, with ternate leaves. The flats were well
grassed, and lightly timbered with box and white-gum. On the flat summit
of the sandstone ranges, we observed the Melaleuca gum, the rusty gum,
the mountain Acacia, and Persoonia falcata, (R. Br.) The basaltic rock
was apparently confined to the upper part of the valley, where it had
broken through the sandstone, which composed all the ranges round our
camp, the latitude of which I observed to be 14 degrees 23 minutes 55
seconds. At our last camp, I observed a Platycercus, of the size of the
Moreton Bay Rosella, with blackfront, yellow shoulders, and sea-green
body; the female had not the showy colours of the male, and the young
ones were more speckled on the back. I believe it to be the Platycercus
Brownii, GOULD. A black and white Ptilotis, the only stuffed specimen of
which was taken by a kite almost out of Mr. Gilbert's hand, was very
frequent at the wells of the natives.
During the night, a great number of flying-foxes came to revel in the
honey of the blossoms of the gum trees. Charley shot three, and we made a
late but welcome supper of them. They were not so fat as those we had
eaten before, and tasted a little strong; but, in messes made at night,
it was always difficult to find out the cause of any particular taste, as
Master Brown wished to get as quickly as possible over his work, and was
not over particular in cleaning them. Platycercus versicolor (the Port
Essington Parrakeet) visited, in large flocks, the blossoms of the gum
trees, and was quite as noisy through the day, as the flying-fox was
during the night.
Oct. 31.--When we were going to start, Brown's old horse was absent, and
after much searching, the poor brute was found lying at the opposite side
of the creek, with its back down the slope, and unable to move. We
succeeded in turning him, and helping him to rise, but he was so weak, as
to be scarcely able to stand: indeed all our cattle were tired and
foot-sore, in consequence of several days travelling over rocky ranges,
and required rest. I therefore determined on remaining here a day, as no
place could be better suited for their recovery. The grass was young and
various, the water delightfully cool, and the scattered trees were large
and shady. Numerous birds frequented the water; a species of Ptilotis,
with its cheerful and pleasing note, entertained us at daybreak, as the
Leatherhead with its constantly changing call and whistling did during
the day. Dacelo cervina, GOULD, (the small laughing Jackass) was not
heard so frequently nor so regularly as its representative of the east
coast. I found a species of fern (Taeniopsis) along the creek, and a
species of Mimosa about three feet high had been observed on the plains
and the flats of the Roper. Charley and Brown went to shoot flying-foxes,
and returned at luncheon with twelve; during the afternoon, they went
again and brought in thirty more; having left about fifty hanging,
wounded, on the trees. They had been at a large swamp and a pond,
connected with the creek, in which Charley declared that he had seen a
strange animal "with two horns," and which had deterred him from going
into the water. As Brown, on the following day, saw a crocodile in the
same pond, Charley's imagination had very probably added two horns to his
wonderful animal.
CHAPTER XIV
INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE--DISTRESSING HEAT--A HORSE STAKED: IT
DIES--MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES--MAGNIFICENT VALLEY--FRIENDLY NATIVES--SHOT
EXHAUSTED--INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS--SOUTH ALLIGATOR RIVER--FRIENDLY NATIVES
WITH AN ENGLISH HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS--THEIR
LANGUAGE--MIRAGE.
Nov. 1.--We reached lat. 14 degrees 16 minutes 17 seconds, having
travelled about nine miles north-west by north. A range composed of baked
sandstone, approached so close to the banks of "Flying-Fox Creek," that
we were obliged to cross the range; to the east-ward of which tea-tree
flats extended, with many deep but dry water-holes, fringed with fine
drooping tea-trees. The country farther on, was well grassed and lightly
timbered. Winding round isolated ranges on a N.N.W. course, we came again
on the Pandanus creek, which we followed. This creek was joined by
several other sandy creeks, also by dry channels fringed with Pandanus,
and by chains of water-holes, in which Typhas (bullrush) indicated the
underground moisture. Some long-stretched detached hills were seen to the
northward, and a long range to the eastward, trending from south to
north. The flat valley between them was scattered over with groves of
Pandanus. A high stiff grass covered the approaches of the creeks, and
long tracts, which had been burnt some time ago, were now covered with
delightful verdure. This, with the dark green belt of trees which marked
the meanderings of several creeks, gave to this beautiful country the
aspect of a large park. I was following one of the sandy creeks, when Mr.
Calvert called my attention to a distant belt of Pandanus, which he
supposed to be a river; I sent Mr. Roper to examine it; and, when the
discharge of his rifle apprized us that he had met with water, we
followed him. It was a broad creek, with a stream about three feet deep,
and from seven to ten yards wide, with a firm and sandy bed; its banks
were shaded by large gum-trees, and Sarcocephalus; and thick reeds, and a
stiff blady grass fringed its waters. The frequent smoke which rose from
every part of the valley, showed that it was well inhabited. Brown met
two natives, with their gins and children, but they ran away as soon as
they saw him. At sunset, a great number of them had collected near our
camp, and set fire to the grass, which illumined the sky, as it spread in
every direction. They tried to frighten us, by imitating a howling chorus
of native dogs; but withdrew, when they saw it was of no avail; at all
events, they left us undisturbed during the night--except by one of their
dogs, which had been attracted probably by the scent of our flying-fox
supper. John and Charley had remained behind to shoot flying-foxes, and
they returned at sunset, with twenty-nine; which furnished us with a good
breakfast and dinner. The night was clear, and a strong warm breeze set
in at a quarter to nine, from the N.N.E. It was as full and steady as
those winds we had experienced at Peak Range, and at the Mackenzie.
Although we had seen the heads of only one branch of the Roper, I feel
convinced that this creek, which was no doubt joined by that at which we
encamped the day before, belonged equally to that river.
Nov. 2.--We travelled about eight miles and a half north 30 degrees west
along the creek, cutting however one of its bends by crossing some
basaltic ridges with a flat summit; from which two almost parallel ranges
were seen to the westward, one near, and the other blue in the distance.
To the northward, two mountains appeared, from which the creek seemed to
take its principal rise. The creek wound between baked sandstone hills,
and was alternately enlarging into Nymphaea ponds, and running in a small
stream over a pebbly or sandy bed. Pandanus, drooping tea-trees,
Terminalias, Acacias, and Sarcocephalus gave it a rich green appearance.
The apple-gum and Eugenia, with ribbed scarlet fruit, grew on the flats.
Methorium Endl. was found, in leaf and size resembling the hazel-nut; it
had showy red and white blossoms. The clustered fig-tree was abundant
along the creek; but its ripe fruits were rare at this time of the year.
A small fish, a species of Gristes, about six inches long, was seen in
the Nymphaea ponds, but we could not induce it to bite.
At 9 o'clock P.M. we felt again a strong warm breeze from north by east;
but at 2 o'clock in the morning, a fine cool breeze, quite bracing and
refreshing, blew from the westward.
A flight of wild geese came down the creek, at about 2 o'clock in the
morning, which made me suppose that the creek was an outlet of some large
lagoons, like those in the valley of the Burdekin.
Nov. 3.--We continued our course up the creek, for nine or ten miles, to
lat. 14 degrees 2 minutes 46 seconds. Its stream still continued; but the
valley became narrower, and the Pandanus and drooping tea-trees rarer.
Ponds and water-holes extended along the foot of the ridges, in a
direction parallel to the creek. The broad-leaved Terminalia was in
blossom. Polyphragmon, which was first met with at the upper Lynd; Careya
arborea, Hakea arborescens, and Coniogeton arborescens, were observed.
White cockatoos were numerous, but shy. A pale green horse-fly annoyed us
as well as our horses.
The ridges were not very high, and all were composed of baked sandstone;
at the left side of the creek, near our camp, there was a chain of
conical hills.
As we were travelling along, a native suddenly emerged from the banks of
the creek, and, crossing our line of march, walked down to a Nymphaea
pond, where he seemed inclined to hide himself until we had passed. I
cooeed to him; at which he looked up, but seemed to be at a loss what to
do or say. I then dismounted, and made signs to show my friendly
disposition: then he began to call out, but, seeing that I motioned away
my companions with the horses and bullocks, as I moved towards him, and
that I held out presents to him, he became more assured of his safety,
and allowed me to come near and put some brass buttons into his hand. I
understood him to ask whether we were following the creek, and I answered
"Brrrrrr aroma aroma!!" pointing at the same time with a long sweep to
the northward. As, however, we were equally unintelligible to each other,
and he did not appear to be very communicative, I mounted my
cream-coloured horse, and left him staring at me in silence until I was
out of sight. We encamped at noon, under two wide-spreading Sarcocephalus
trees, whose grateful shade offered us a shelter from the scorching sun.
But, as the sun got low, the shades of the oval crown of the trees drew
rapidly off, and we had to lean against the shady side of the butt to
obtain relief from the heat, which had so enervating an effect upon us
that the slightest exertion was painful. After sunset, however, in the
comparative coolness of the evening, our animal spirits revived; and it
was only during that part of the day, and in the early morning before
sunrise, that I felt inclined to attend to any business that required
much bodily exertion. It was a great enjoyment indeed to lie devoid of
any covering on our couch, and watch the fading tints of sunset. The
usual, and therefore expected, night breeze did not set in; but, about
half-past 10 o'clock P.M., there was a slight stir in the atmosphere,
accompanied with a sense of moisture, as if a distant thunder-storm had
occurred, and interrupted the usual progress of the breeze.
Nov. 4.--We travelled about seven miles, north-west by north, to lat. 13
degrees 56 minutes 46 seconds. After following the creek about a mile, it
turned so far to the westward that I left it, and with much difficulty
ascended the ranges to the northward: from their highest elevation, I saw
that a high range, trending from south-east to north-west, bounded the
valley of the creek I had left; another fine range was seen to the
eastward. Following a gully, we descended into the valley of a creek
flowing to the southward, and which probably joined the creek I had left
below the place of our last encampment. In the lower part of the gully,
we came upon some fine Nymphaea ponds and springs surrounded by ferns.
The whole valley, though narrow, was beautifully grassed. Trichodesma,
Grewia, Crinum, and the trefoil of the Suttor, grew on the flats; the
apple-gum, rusty-gum, the mountain Acacia and Fusanus, the last in
blossom, grew on the ridges.
The rock was a baked sandstone; in the pebbles of the creek I found the
impressions of bivalves (one ribbed like Cardium).
Our bullocks had become so foot-sore, and were so oppressed by the
excessive heat, that it was with the greatest difficulty we could prevent
them from rushing into the water with their loads. One of them--that
which carried the remainder of my botanical collection--watched his
opportunity, and plunged into a deep pond, where he was quietly swimming
about and enjoying himself, whilst I was almost crying with vexation at
seeing all my plants thoroughly soaked.
Nov. 5.--We travelled in all about eleven miles N. 55 degrees W. to
latitude 13 degrees 50 minutes. After following the creek, on which we
had encamped, to its head, we passed over a scrubby stringy-bark forest;
and, whenever we came to watercourses going to the eastward, we turned to
the north-west and westward. We passed several sandstone hills and ridges
rising out of this sandy table land, and attempted to cross one of them,
but our path was intercepted by precipices and chasms, forming an
insurmountable barrier to our cattle. We, therefore, followed a
watercourse to the southward, winding between two ranges to the westward
and southward, and continued again to the north-west, which brought us to
a tributary of the creek we had just left, and in which we found large
water-holes covered with Nymphaeas and Villarsias.
The strata of the range which we ascended, dipped to the south-west; in
which direction I saw a high range, probably the continuation of the one
I had observed at yesterday's stage along Roper's Creek.
The Melaleuca-gum, the Cypress-pine, Fusanus and Banksia abounded in the
stringy-bark forest, and along the creeks; and the flats round the
water-holes were covered with a dark green sedge, which, however, our
cattle did not relish so much as, from its inviting verdure, I had
anticipated would have been the case. The remains of fresh-water turtles
were frequently noticed in the camps of the natives; and Mr. Calvert had
seen one depicted with red ochre on the rocks. It is probable that this
animal forms a considerable part of the food of the natives. John Murphy
reported that he had seen a hut of the natives constructed of sheets of
stringy-bark, and spacious enough to receive our whole party; the huts
which I had observed were also very spacious, but covered with tea-tree
bark. Smoke from the natives' fires was seen from the range in every
direction, and their burnings invariably led us to creeks.
Charley shot a rock wallabi of a different species from any we had
previously seen: it was of a light grey colour; the tail was smooth, and
its black tip was more bushy than in other species; there were two white
spots on the shoulder; it was smaller than those of Ruined Castle Creek,
and the red wallabies of the Mitchell and of the shores of the gulf. John
shot a large Iguana of remarkably bright colours, which were perhaps
owing to a late desquamation of the skin.
Nov. 6.--We travelled fourteen miles N. 30 degrees W. to latitude 13
degrees 38 minutes 28 seconds, and encamped in a little creek, at the
head of which was a grassy drooping tea-tree swamp. We left all the
eastern water-courses to the right, and followed several which went down
to the southward, up to their heads. The country, with the exception of
the ridges which bounded the narrow valleys of watercourses, was a sandy
level stringy-bark forest, interspersed with Melaleuca-gum and leguminous
Ironbark; saplings of which formed large tracts of a low open under-wood.
We had passed a large but dry swamp, having no outlet, and surrounded
with Pandanus, when Brown called my attention to an opening in the
forest, and to a certain dim appearance of the atmosphere peculiar to
extensive plains and valleys. Travelling in that direction we soon found
ourselves at the margin of the sandy table-land, from which we overlooked
a large valley bounded by high ranges to the westward. We then followed a
very rocky creek, in its various windings, in search of water; Grallina
australis called four times, and deceived us each time; and cockatoos,
and pigeons, and finches, all proved false prophets. However, about five
miles farther, we found a small pool, at which natives had very recently
encamped, and, three miles farther, two fine water-holes fringed with
Pandanus.
Our bullocks and horses were very foot-sore, and could scarcely move over
the rocky ground.
The ridges at the head of this western creek were covered with an
arborescent Capparis, the ripe fruit of which tasted very like
strawberries; but those which were not ripe were very pungent. Another
little tree, belonging to the Hamelieae D.C., with large white fragrant
blossoms, and fruit about two inches long and one broad, with numerous
seeds nestling in a pulpy substance, was very abundant. In its ripe
state, the pulp turned black; I ate some of it, but although it proved to
be harmless, it was not good. The little bread-fruit of the upper Lynd,
no doubt belonged to the same class of plants.
I believe that all the creeks which we passed since leaving the Roper,
still belonged to that river; and that the western creek and all the
western waters we met, until reaching the South Alligator river, belonged
to the system of the latter. The division of the eastern and western
waters was, according to my reckoning, in longitude 133 degrees 35
minutes.
Nov. 7.--We followed the creek for about four or five miles, and halted
at a well-grassed spot with good water-holes, in order to kill one of our
bullocks, and allow the other two and the horses to recover. The poor
brute was fairly knocked up and incapable of going any farther, even
without a load. Some of my readers may wonder that our bullocks should
suffer so much when travelling through a country both well grassed and
well watered, and by such short stages; but they should consider the
climate in which we travelled, and the excessive heat to which we were
exposed. The rocky nature of the ground contributed no less to their
foot-weariness and exhaustion. If I could have rested two or three days
out of seven, the animals would have had time to recover, and would have
done comparatively well. But, independent of the fatigues of travelling,
the relaxing and enervating influence of the climate was as visible in
our cattle as in ourselves.
The apple-gum, a bloodwood, and the poplar-gum(?) grew round our camp;
the grasses were tender, but formed distinct tufts; Crinum was plentiful.
The night breeze set in at a quarter to 9 o'clock from north-east, or
north by east, strong, full and warm; there was a slight moisture in the
air before daybreak, which rendered our almost dry meat a little damp
again.
We were occupied during the 8th Nov. in drying our meat, mending and
washing our things, and arranging the few loads which were left.
Nov. 9.--We travelled down the creek in a south-west course, for about
nine miles. Low sandstone ranges bounded its valley to the southward and
south-east; stony ridges with stunted trees and Cypress-pine extended to
the north-west. The banks of the creek, which I called "Snowdrop's
Creek," after the bullock we had killed, were grassy and open; it was
well provided with water. A pretty little Sida, a Convolvolus, and
Grewia, were growing amongst the young grass. Mr. Calvert saw the
Livistona palm.
We felt a breeze from the eastward during the afternoon, as usual, and
the strong night breeze from north and north-east; but, in the morning, a
wind from north-west and west, which belonged probably to another system
of atmospherical movements.
A swarm of whistling ducks (Leptotarsis Eytoni, GOULD.) passed during the
night from down the creek to the eastward, which made me suppose that
Snowdrop's Creek was either joined by large creeks with water, or that
itself joined a larger river. The black Ibis was frequent at the
water-hole.
Nov. 10.--We travelled about six miles and a half N. N. W. The creek
turned so far to the westward and southward, that I left it, and crossed
some ridges, beyond which a very rocky creek going down to Snowdrop's
Creek, intercepted our course. Having crossed it with great difficulty,
we travelled through a scrubby forest, and came to the heads of the same
creek, several of which were formed by swamps. Here the drooping
tea-tree, growing in a sandy peat, attained a stately height. The sandy
slopes around the swamps were covered with Banksia, the Melaleuca gum,
and Pandanus, and a rich profusion of grasses and low sedges surrounded
the deep pools of spring water. These spots, which bore the marks of
being much visited by the natives, were like oases in the dry, dull,
sandy forest, and formed delightful shady groves, pleasing to every
sense. Kangaroos and various birds, particularly the white cockatoo, were
numerous; and the little bees came like flies on our hands, on my paper,
and on our soup plates, and indicated abundance of honey; a small species
of Cicada had risen from its slumbers, and was singing most cheerfully.
One of our horses was seriously staked in the belly, by some
unaccountable accident; I drew a seton through the large swelling,
although, considering its exhausted state, I entertained but a slight
hope of its recovery.
Nov. 11.--We accomplished about ten miles in a direct line, but on a long
and fatiguing circuitous course. Starting in a northerly direction, we
passed over some rocky ground, but soon entered into a sandy level,
covered with scrubby, stringy-bark forest, intermixed with Melaleuca gum.
At the distance of four miles I came to a rocky creek going to the
westward, which I followed. From one of the hills which bounded its
narrow valley, I had a most disheartening, sickening view over a
tremendously rocky country. A high land, composed of horizontal strata of
sandstone, seemed to be literally hashed, leaving the remaining blocks in
fantastic figures of every shape; and a green vegetation, crowding
deceitfully within their fissures and gullies, and covering half of the
difficulties which awaited us on our attempt to travel over it. The
creek, in and along the bed of which we wound slowly down, was frequently
covered with large loose boulders, between which our horses and cattle
often slipped. A precipice, and perpendicular rocks on both sides,
compelled us to leave it; and following one of its tributary creeks to
its head, to the northward, we came to another, which led us down to a
river running to the west by south. With the greatest difficulty we went
down its steep slopes, and established our camp at a large water-hole in
its bed. The longitude of the river was, according to my reckoning, 133
degrees 6 minutes.
A new species of rock pigeon (Petrophassa, GOULD.) with a dark brown
body, primaries light brown without any white, and with the tail feathers
rather worn, lived in pairs and small flocks like Geophaps, and flew out
of the shade of overhanging rocks, or from the moist wells which the
natives had dug in the bed of the creek, around which they clustered like
flies round a drop of syrup. A fine shady Eucalyptus, with a short
barrel, but large spreading branches, and with the grey bark of the box,
grew between the rocks along the creek.
Nov. 12.--We had been compelled to leave the injured horse behind, and
upon going this morning with Charley to fetch it to the camp, we found
the poor brute dead. On our return to the camp, we followed another creek
to the northward, which also joined the river, about eight miles to the
eastward of our camp. The river was densely covered with scrub, and
almost perpendicular cliffs bounded its valley on both sides. Myriads of
flying-foxes were here suspended in thick clusters on the highest trees
in the most shady and rather moist parts of the valley. They started as
we passed, and the flapping of their large membranous wings produced a
sound like that of a hail-storm.
Nov. 13.--The two horses ridden by Charley and myself yesterday, had
suffered so severely, that I had to allow them a day of rest to recover.
In the mean time, I went with Charley and Brown to the spot where we had
seen the greatest number of flying-foxes, and, whilst I was examining the
neighbouring trees, my companions shot sixty-seven, of which fifty-five
were brought to our camp; which served for dinner, breakfast, and
luncheon, each individual receiving eight. The flying-fox lived here on a
small, blue, oval stone-fruit, of an acid taste, with a bitter kernel; it
grew on a tree of moderate size. Very small specimens of the Seaforthia
palm were here observed for the first time; and the large scarlet fruit
of Eugenia was found.
During the night, we heard the first grumbling of thunder since many
months.
Nov. 14.--We travelled about twelve miles north by west. After crossing
the river, we followed a rocky creek to its head, and passed over ten
miles of level sandy country of stringy-bark forest, with Melalcuca gum
and Banksia, interrupted only by a small Pandanus creek. At the end of
the stage, we came to rocky creeks, one of which headed in a drooping
tea-tree swamp, with rich vegetation, but without water. The creek, which
we followed down for two miles, there changed its character, and
meandered through sandy, well-grassed flats, and contained some good
water-holes, on which we encamped. John told me that he had found the
ripe fruit of Exocarpus cupressiformis; which I doubted very much, as I
had not seen the slightest trace of it since we left the Dawson, although
Exocarpus latifolia was very frequent all over the sandy table-land. But
we gathered and ate a great quantity of gibong (the ripe fruit of
Persoonia falcata), and some small yellow figs of the glossy-leaved
fig-tree. I observed a Eucalyptus of rather stunted growth, with broad,
almost oval leaves, and long, narrow seed-vessels.
During the night, thunder clouds and lightning were seen in every
direction; and the whole atmosphere appeared to be in a state of
fermentation. Heavy showers poured down upon us; and our tarpaulings,
which had been torn to pieces in travelling through the scrub, were
scarcely sufficient to keep ourselves and our things dry. But in the
morning of the 15th, all nature seemed refreshed; and my depressed
spirits rose quickly, under the influence of that sweet breath of
vegetation, which is so remarkably experienced in Australia, where the
numerous Myrtle family, and even their dead leaves, contribute so largely
to the general fragrance. This day we travelled about six miles to the W.
N. W.
Our course, however, was for three miles to the northward, over a sandy
level forest, intercepted by several rocky creeks. The third which we
came to, I followed down to the westward, and came to a large creek,
which soon joined a still larger one from the eastward. Both were well
provided with water; and we encamped at a very large hole under a ledge
of rock across the bed of the creek; and which probably formed a fine
waterfall during the rainy season.
Thunder-storms formed to the southward and northward; but we had only a
few drops of rain. It was remarkable to observe that those to the
southward vered round to the south-west by west, whereas those to the
northward veered round to the north-east and east.
Nov. 16.--We travelled nine miles north-west by north; crossed numerous
rocky creeks, and some undulating country; and had a most distressing
passage over exceedingly rocky ranges. At the end of the stage, we came
to a large Pandanus creek, which we followed until we found some fine
pools of water in its bed. My companions had, for several days past,
gathered the unripe fruits of Coniogeton arborescens, Br.; which, when
boiled, imparted an agreeable acidity to the water, and when thus
prepared tasted tolerable well. When ripe, they became sweet and pulpy,
like gooseberries, although their rind was not very thick. This
resemblance induced us to call the tree "The little Gooseberry tree." At
the table land, and along the upper South Alligator River, it was a tree
from twenty-five to thirty feet high, with a fresh green shady foliage;
but, at the Cobourg Peninsula, it dwindled into a low shrub. The fruit
was much esteemed there by the natives; for, although the tree was of
smaller size, the fruit was equally large and fine.
Nov. 17.--We travelled four or five miles through Banksia, and
Melaleuca-gum forest, crossed several rocky creeks; and followed down the
largest of them; which in its whole extent was exceedingly rocky. The
rock was generally in horizontal layers. There were many high falls in
the bed, which compelled me to leave the creek, and proceed on the rising
ground along its banks, when suddenly the extensive view of a magnificent
valley opened before us. We stood with our whole train on the brink of a
deep precipice, of perhaps 1800 feet descent, which seemed to extend far
to the eastward. A large river, joined by many tributary creeks coming
from east, south-east, south-west and west, meandered through the valley;
which was bounded by high, though less precipitous ranges to the westward
and south-west from our position; and other ranges rose to the northward.
I went on foot to the mouth of the creek; but the precipice prevented my
moving any farther; another small creek was examined, but with the same
result. We were compelled to move back, and thence to reconnoitre for a
favourable descent. Fortunately the late thunder-storms had filled a
great number of small rocky basins in the bed of the creek; and, although
there was only a scanty supply of a stiff grass, our cattle had filled
themselves sufficiently the previous night to bear a day's privation. In
the afternoon, Charley accompanied me on foot in a northerly direction
(for no horse could move between the large loose sandstone blocks), and
we examined several gullies and watercourses, all of a wild and rocky
character, and found it impossible to descend, in that direction, into
the valley. Charley shot a Wallooroo just as it was leaping, frightened
by our footsteps, out of its shady retreat to a pointed rock. Whilst on
this expedition, we observed a great number of grasshoppers, of a bright
brick colour dotted with blue: the posterior part of the corselet, and
the wings were blue; it was two inches long, and its antennae three
quarters of an inch.
Nov. 18.--We returned to the creek in which we had encamped on the 16th,
and pitched our tents a little lower down, where some rich feed promised
our cattle a good treat. Immediately after luncheon, I started again with
Charley down the creek, myself on horseback, but my companion on foot. It
soon became very rocky, with gullies joining it from both sides; but,
after two miles, it opened again into fine well-grassed lightly timbered
flats, and terminated in a precipice, as the others had done. A great
number of tributary creeks joined it in its course, but all formed
gullies and precipices. Many of these gullies were gently sloping
hollows, filled with a rich black soil, and covered with an open brush
vegetation at their upper part; but, lower down, large rocks protruded,
until the narrow gully, with perpendicular walls, sunk rapidly into the
deep chasm, down which the boldest chamois hunter would not have dared to
descend. I now determined to examine the country to the southward; and,
as it was late and my horse very foot-sore, I remained for the night at
the next grassy flat, and sent Charley back to order my companions to
remove the camp next morning as far down the creek as possible, in order
to facilitate the examination, which, on foot, in this climate, was
exceedingly exhausting.
Nov. 19.--I appeased my craving hunger, which had been well tried for
twenty hours, on the small fruit of a species of Acmena which grew near
the rocks that bounded the sandy flats, until my companions brought my
share of stewed green hide. We went about three miles farther down the
creek, and encamped in the dense shade of a wide spreading Rock box, a
tree which I mentioned a few days since. From this place I started with
Brown in one direction, and Charley in another, to find a passage through
the labyrinth of rocks. After a most fatiguing scramble up and down rocky
gullies, we again found ourselves at the brink of that beautiful valley,
which lay before us like a promised land. We had now a more extensive
view of its eastern outline, and saw extending far to our right a
perpendicular wall, cut by many narrow fissures, the outlet of as many
gullies; the same wall continued to the left, but interrupted by a steep
slope; to which we directed our steps, and after many windings succeeded
in finding it. It was indeed very steep. Its higher part was composed of
sandstone and conglomerate; but a coarse-grained granite, with much
quartz and felspar, but little mica and accidental hornblende, was below.
The size of its elements had rendered it more liable to decomposition,
and had probably been the cause of the formation of the slope. In the
valley, the creek murmured over a pebbly bed, and enlarged from time to
time, into fine sheets of water. We rested ourselves in the shade of its
drooping tea-trees; and, observing another slope about two miles farther,
went to examine it, but finding that its sandstone crest was too steep
for our purpose, we returned to mark a line of road from the first slope
to our camp. For this purpose I had taken a tomahawk with me, well
knowing how little I could rely on Brown for finding his old tracks; but,
with the tomahawk, he succeeded very well; for his quick eye discovered,
from afar, the practicability of the road. We succeeded at last, and,
after many windings, reached our camp, even quicker than we had
anticipated. Charley returned next morning, and reported that he had
found a descent, but very far off. This "very far off" of Charley was
full of meaning which I well understood.
During the night we had a very heavy thunder-storm which filled our creek
and made its numerous waterfalls roar.
Nov. 20.--We proceeded on our tree-marked line to the slope, and
descending, arrived, after some difficulty, safe and sound in the valley.
Our horses and cattle were, however, in a distressing condition. The
passage along rocky creeks, between the loose blocks of which their feet
were constantly slipping, had rendered them very foot-sore, and had
covered their legs with sores. The feed had latterly consisted either of
coarse grasses, or a small sedge, which they did not like. But, in the
valley, all the tender grasses reappeared in the utmost profusion, on
which horses and bullocks fed most greedily during the short rest I
allowed them after reaching the foot of the slope. The creek formed a
fine waterfall of very great height, like a silver belt between rich
green vegetation, behind which the bare mountain walls alone were
visible. I proceeded down the creek about three miles to the north-west,
when it joined a larger creek from the south-west. Here one of our two
remaining bullocks refused to go any further; and as our meat bags were
empty, I decided upon stopping in this favourable spot to kill the
bullock.
Careya arborea, the broad-leaved Terminalia, Coniogeton arborescens, an
umbrageous white-gum tree, and Pandanus, together with the luxuriant
young grass, gave to the country a most pleasing aspect. But the late
thunder-storm had rendered the ground very damp, and that with the
mawkish smell of our drying meat, soon made our camp very disagreeable.
In the rocky gullies of the table land, we had observed a great number of
shrubs, amongst which a species of Pleurandra, a dwarf Calythrix, a
prostrate woolly Grevillea, and a red Melaleuca, were the most
interesting. Near the slope by which we entered the valley, a species of
Achras was found, but with a much smaller fruit than that of Port
Jackson.
The melodious whistle of a bird was frequently heard in the most rocky
and wretched spots of the table land. It raised its voice, a slow full
whistle, by five or six successive half-notes; which was very pleasing,
and frequently the only relief while passing through this most perplexing
country. The bullock was killed in the afternoon of the 20th, and on the
21st the meat was cut up and put out to dry; the afternoon was very
favourable for this purpose; but, at night rain set in, and with the
sultry weather rendered the meat very bad. The mornings were generally
sultry and cloudy; during the afternoon the clouds cleared off with the
sea-breeze: and towards sunset thunder-storms rose, and the nights were
rainy, which prevented me from making observations to ascertain my
latitude. The longitude of the descent, was, according to reckoning, 132
degrees 50 minutes. A little before sunset of the 21st four natives came
to our camp; they made us presents of red ochre, which they seemed to
value highly, of a spear and a spear's head made of baked sandstone (GRES
LUSTRE). In return I gave them a few nails; and as I was under the
necessity of parting with every thing heavy which was not of immediate
use for our support, I also gave them my geological hammer. One of the
natives was a tall, but slim man; the others were of smaller size, but
all had a mild and pleasing expression of countenance.
Large fish betrayed their presence in the deep water by splashing during
the night: and Charley asserted that he had seen the tracks of a
crocodile. Swarms of whistling ducks occupied the large ponds in the
creek: but our shot was all used, and the small iron-pebbles which were
used as a substitute, were not heavy enough to kill even a duck. Some
balls, however, were still left, but these we kept for occasions of
urgent necessity.
Nov. 22.--As our meat was not sufficiently dry for packing we remained
here the whole of this day; but, at night, the heaviest thunder-storm we
perhaps had ever experienced, poured down and again wetted it; we
succeeded, however, notwithstanding this interruption, in drying it
without much taint; but its soft state enabled the maggots to nestle in
it; and the rain to which it had been exposed, rendered it very insipid.
Poor Redmond, the last of our bullocks, came frequently to the spot where
his late companion had been killed; but finding that he was gone, he
returned to his abundant feed, and when I loaded him to continue our
journey down the river he was full and sleek. It was interesting to
observe how the bullocks on all previous occasions, almost invariably
took cognizance of the place where one of their number had been killed.
They would visit it either during the night or the next day, walk round
the spot, lift their tails, snuff the air with an occasional shake of
their horns, and sometimes, set off in a gallop.
Nov. 23.--We travelled about eight miles north-west over an equally fine
country. A high range of Pegmatite descended from the table land far into
the valley, from east to west; and an isolated peak was seen to the west
of it at the left bank of the river.
The Eugenia with scarlet fruit, and another species with rose-coloured
fruit, of most exquisite taste--particularly when the seed was abortive,
and the pericarp more developed--were abundant on the flats of the river;
and Aemena?, with smaller fruit and thin acidulous rind, grew straggling
on the ridges.
A thunder-storm from the north-east, compelled us to hasten into camp;
and we had scarcely housed our luggage, when heavy rain set in and
continued to fall during the first part of the night.
Nov. 24.--We travelled about nine miles to the north-west, to lat. 13
degrees 5 minutes 49 seconds, which a clear night enabled me to observe
by a meridian altitude of Castor. We were, according to my latitude, and
to my course, at the South Alligator River, about sixty miles from its
mouth, and about one hundred and forty miles from Port Essington.
The river gradually increased in size, and its bed became densely fringed
with Pandanus; the hollows and flats were covered with groves of drooping
tea-trees. Ridges of sandstone and conglomerate approached the river in
several places, and at their base were seen some fine reedy and rushy
lagoons, teeming with water-fowl. A flock of black Ibises rose from a
moist hollow; white and black cockatoos, were seen and heard frequently.
At day-break, I was struck with the sweet song of Rhipidura flaviventris,
GOULD.
The natives cooeed from the other side of the river, probably to
ascertain whether we were friendly or hostile; but did not show
themselves any farther. They were Unio eaters to a great extent, judging
from the heaps of shells we saw along the river; the species of Unio on
which they lived, was much smaller than that we had observed on the
Roper. John and Charley saw a native in the bed of the river, busily
employed in beating a species of bark, very probably to use its fibres to
strain honey. He did not interrupt his work, and either did not see them,
or wished to ignore their presence. The horse flies began to be very
troublesome, but the mosquitoes fortunately did not annoy us,
notwithstanding the neighbourhood of the river, and the late rains.
Charley and Brown shot five geese, which gave us a good breakfast and
luncheon.
A strong breeze from the northward set in late every afternoon, since we
had descended into the valley of the South Alligator River.
Nov. 25.--We travelled about seven miles and a half N.W. by W., to lat.
13 degrees 0 minutes 56 seconds. I intended to follow the sandy bergue of
the river, but a dense Pandanus brush soon compelled us to return, and to
head several grassy and sedgy swamps like those we passed on the last
stage. Chains of small water-holes, and Nymphaea ponds, ran parallel to
the river; and very extensive swamps filled the intervals between rather
densely wooded ironstone ridges, which seemed to be spurs of a more hilly
country, protruding into the valley of the river. Some of these swamps
were dry, and had a sound bottom, allowing our cattle to pass without
difficulty. Others, however, were exceedingly boggy, and dangerous for
both horse and man; for Charley was almost suffocated in the mud, in
attempting to procure a goose he had shot. The swamps narrowed towards
the river, and formed large and frequently rocky water-holes, in a well
defined channel, which, however, became broad and deep where it
communicated with the river, and which in many places rivalled it in
size. A belt of drooping tea-trees surrounded the swamps, whilst their
outlets were densely fringed with Pandanus. The Livistona palm and
Cochlospermum gossypium grew on the ridges; the tea-tree, the
stringy-bark, the leguminous Ironbark and Eugenia were useful timber. The
whole country was most magnificently grassed.
A Porphyritic sienite cropped out at the head of the first swamp, about a
mile from our last camp.
We had cut our rifle balls into slugs, with which Charley and Brown shot
three geese (Anseranus melanoleuca, GOULD).
A low range was seen at the south-east end of the large swamp on which we
encamped.
Nov. 26.--We travelled about nine miles and a half N.N.W. to lat. 12
degrees 51 minutes 56 seconds. After having once more seen the river,
where it was joined by the broad outlet of a swamp, I turned to the
northward, and passed over closely-wooded and scrubby ridges of ironstone
and conglomerate, with pebbles and pieces of quartz covering the ground.
Livistona inermis, R. Br. formed small groves; and Pandanus covered the
hollows and banks of two small creeks with rocky water-holes going to the
westward. About six miles from our last camp, an immense plain opened
before us, at the west side of which we recognized the green line of the
river. We crossed the plain to find water, but the approaches of the
river were formed by tea-tree hollows, and by thick vine brush, at the
outside of which noble bouquets of Bamboo and stately Corypha palms
attracted our attention. In skirting the brush, we came to a salt-water
creek (the first seen by us on the north-west coast), when we immediately
returned to the ridges, where we met with a well-beaten foot-path of the
natives, which led us along brush, teeming with wallabies, and through
undulating scrubby forest ground to another large plain. Here the noise
of clouds of water-fowl, probably rising at the approach of some natives,
betrayed to us the presence of water. We encamped at the outskirts of the
forest, at a great distance from the large but shallow pools, which had
been formed by the late thunder-showers. The water had received a
disagreeable sour aluminous taste from the soil, and from the dung of
innumerable geese, ducks, native companions, white cranes, and various
other water-fowl. The boggy nature of the ground prevented our horses and
the bullock from approaching it; and they consequently strayed very far
in search of water. In the forest land, the Torres Straits pigeon
(Carpophaga luctuosa, GOULD,) was numerous. At sunset, Charley returned
to the camp, accompanied by a whole tribe of natives. They were armed
with small goose spears, and with flat wommalas; but, although they were
extremely noisy, they did not show the slightest hostile intention. One
of them had a shawl and neckerchief of English manufacture: and another
carried an iron tomahawk, which he said he got from north-west by north.
They knew Pichenelumbo (Van Diemen's Gulf), and pointed to the north-west
by north, when we asked for it. I made them various presents: and they
gave us some of their ornaments and bunches of goose feathers in return,
but showed the greatest reluctance in parting with their throwing sticks
(wommalas.) They were inclined to theft, and I had to mount Brown on
horseback to keep them out of our camp.
Nov. 27.--The natives returned very early to our camp, and took the
greatest notice of what we were eating, but would not taste anything we
offered them. When Brown returned with our bullock, the beast rushed at
them, and pursued them for a great distance, almost goring one of their
number.
We travelled about three miles and a half north-east, but had to go
fairly over ten miles of ground. We followed the foot-path of the natives
for about two miles, passing over some scrubby ridges into a series of
plains, which seemed to be boundless to the N.W. and N.N.W. A broad deep
channel of fresh water covered with Nymphaeas and fringed with Pandanus,
intercepted our course; and I soon found that it formed the outlet of one
of those remarkable swamps which I have described on the preceding
stages. We turned to the E. and E.S.E. following its outline, in order
either to find a crossing place, or to head it. The natives were very
numerous, and employing themselves either in fishing or burning the grass
on the plains, or digging for roots. I saw here a noble fig-tree, under
the shade of which seemed to have been the camping place of the natives
for the last century. It was growing at the place where we first came to
the broad outlet of the swamp. About two miles to the eastward, this
swamp extended beyond the reach of sight, and seemed to form the whole
country, of the remarkable and picturesque character of which it will be
difficult to convey a correct idea to the reader. Its level bed was
composed of a stiff bluish clay, without vegetation, mostly dry, and
cracked by the heat of the sun; but its depressions were still moist, and
treacherously boggy; in many parts of this extensive level, rose isolated
patches, or larger island-like groves of Pandanus intermixed with
drooping tea-trees, and interwoven with Ipomaeas, or long belts of
drooping tea-trees, in the shade of which reaches of shallow water,
surrounded by a rich sward of grasses of the most delicate verdure, had
remained. Thousands of ducks and geese occupied these pools, and the
latter fed as they waded through the grass. We travelled for a long time
through groves of drooping tea-trees, which grew along the outline of the
swamps, but using great caution in consequence of its boggy nature.
Several times I wished to communicate with the natives who followed us,
but, every time I turned my horse's head, they ran away; however, finding
my difficulties increased, whilst attempting to cross the swamp, I
dismounted and walked up to one of them, and taking his hand, gave him a
sheet of paper, on which I wrote some words, giving him to understand, as
well as I could, that he had nothing to fear as long as he carried the
paper. By this means I induced him to walk with me, but considerably in
advance of my train, and especially of the bullock; he kept manfully near
me, and pointed out the sounder parts of the swamp, until we came to a
large pool, on which were a great number of geese, when he gave me to
understand that he wished Brown to go and shoot them; for these natives,
as well as those who visited us last night, were well acquainted with the
effects of fire arms.
We encamped at this pool, and the natives flocked round us from every
direction. Boys of every age, lads, young men and old men too, came,
every one armed with his bundle of goose spears, and his throwing stick.
They observed, with curious eye, everything we did, and made long
explanations to each other of the various objects presented to their
gaze. Our eating, drinking, dress, skin, combing, boiling, our blankets,
straps, horses, everything, in short, was new to them, and was earnestly
discussed, particularly by one of the old men, who amused us with his
drollery and good humour in trying to persuade each of us to give him
something. They continually used the words "Perikot, Nokot, Mankiterre,
Lumbo Lumbo, Nana Nana Nana," all of which we did not understand till
after our arrival at Port Essington, where we learned that they meant
"Very good, no good, Malays very far." Their intonation was extremely
melodious, some other words, the meaning of which we could not make out,
were "Kelengeli, Kongurr, Verritimba, Vanganbarr, Nangemong,
Maralikilla;" the accent being always on the first syllable of the word,
and all the vowels short.
Nov. 28.--Our good friends, the natives, were with us again very early in
the morning; they approached us in long file, incessantly repeating the
words above mentioned, Perikot, Nokot, etc. which they seemed to consider
a kind of introduction. After having guided us over the remaining part of
the swamp to the firm land, during which they gave us the most evident
proofs of their skill in spearing geese--they took their leave of us and
returned; when I again resumed my course to the northward. I understood
from the natives that a large lake, or deep water, existed at the head of
the swamp, far to the east and north-east. We travelled about nine miles
north by east, to lat. 12 degrees 38 minutes 41 seconds.
A foot-path of the natives led us through an intricate tea-tree swamp, in
which the rush of waters had uprooted the trees, and left them strewed in
every direction, which rendered the passage exceedingly difficult. In the
middle of the swamp we saw a fine camp of oven like huts, covered with
tea-tree bark. After crossing some scrubby sandstone ridges, we came to a
sandy creek, up which we proceeded until we found a small water-hole,
which had been filled by the late thunder-storms, where we encamped.
The weather had been very favourable since we left the upper South
Alligator River. It was evident from the appearance of the creek and the
swamps, that the rains had been less abundant here. Cumuli formed here
regularly during the afternoon, with the setting in of the north-west sea
breeze, but dispersed at sunset, and during the first part of the night.
Thunder clouds were seen in the distance, but none reached us. The clear
nights were generally dewy.
The country was most beautifully grassed: and a new species of Crinum,
and several leguminous plants, diversified with their pretty blossoms the
pleasing green of the flats and the forest.
Since the 23rd of November, not a night had passed without long files and
phalanxes of geese taking their flight up and down the river, and they
often passed so low, that the heavy flapping of their wings was
distinctly heard. Whistling ducks, in close flocks, flew generally much
higher, and with great rapidity. No part of the country we had passed,
was so well provided with game as this; and of which we could have easily
obtained an abundance, had not our shot been all expended. The cackling
of geese, the quacking of ducks, the sonorous note of the native
companion, and the noises of black and white cockatoos, and a great
variety of other birds, gave to the country, both night and day, an
extraordinary appearance of animation. We started two large native dogs,
from the small pool at which we encamped; a flock of kites indicated to
me the presence of a larger pool which I chose for our use; and here we
should have been tolerably comfortable, but for a large green-eyed
horse-fly, which was extremely troublesome to us, and which scarcely
allowed our poor animals to feed.
We had a heavy thunder-storm from the north-east, which, however, soon
passed off.
Nov. 29.--We travelled about twelve miles to the northward to lat. 12
degrees 26 minutes 41 seconds, over ironstone and baked sandstone ridges,
densely wooded and often scrubby. The first part of the stage was more
hilly, and intersected by a greater number of creeks, going down to west
and north-west, than the latter part, which was a sandy, level forest of
stringy-bark and Melaleuca gum. The little gooseberry-tree (Coniogeton
arborescens, D.C.) the leguminous Ironbark, a smooth, broad-leaved
Terminalia, Calythrix, and the apple-gum, were plentiful. Livistona
inermis, R. Br. grew from twenty to thirty feet high, with a very slender
stem and small crown, and formed large groves in the stringy-bark forest.
A grass, well known at the Hunter by its scent resembling that of crushed
ants, was here scentless; a little plant, with large, white, tubular,
sweet-scented flowers, grew sociably in the forest, and received the name
of "native primrose;" a species of Commelyna, and a prostrate malvaceous
plant with red flowers, and a species of Oxystelma, contributed by their
beauty and variety to render the country interesting.
Nov. 30.--The lower part of the creek on which we were encamped was
covered with a thicket of Pandanus; but its upper part was surrounded by
groves of the Livistona palm. As our horses had been driven far from the
camp by the grey horse-fly and by a large brown fly with green eyes,
which annoyed us particularly before sunset, and shortly after sunrise,
we had to wait a long time for them, and employed ourselves, in the
meanwhile, with cutting and eating the tops of Livistona. Many were in
blossom, others were in fruit; the latter is an oblong little stone fruit
of very bitter taste. Only the lowest part of the young shoots is
eatable, the remainder being too bitter. I think they affected the bowels
even more than the shoots of the Corypha palm.
We made a short Sunday stage through a fine forest, in which Livistona
became more and more frequent. We crossed several creeks going to the
westward; the country became more hilly, and we followed a large creek
with a good supply of rainwater, until it turned too much to the
westward, when we encamped. The clear night enabled me to make my
latitude, by an observation of Castor, to be 12 degrees 21 minutes 49
seconds. We had accomplished about five miles to the northward.
We saw two emus, and Charley was fortunate enough to shoot one of them;
it was the fattest we had met with round the gulf. During the clear, dewy
night, flocks of geese and ducks passed from the west to the north-east,
and I anticipated that the next stage would bring us again to large
swamps. The bed of the creek on which we encamped was composed of
granitic rock.
CHAPTER XV
JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH--THEY ARE VERY
FRIENDLY--ALLAMURR--DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY--EAST ALLIGATOR
RIVER--CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE--IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF
THE JOURNEY--NATIVES STILL MORE INTELLIGENT--NYUALL--BUFFALOES; SOURCE
FROM WHICH THEY SPRUNG--NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US--MOUNT
MORRIS BAY--RAFFLES BAY--LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK BEHIND--BILL
WHITE--ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON--VOYAGE TO SYDNEY.
Dec. 1.--We travelled about eleven or twelve miles to the northward, for
the greater part through forest land, large tracts of which were occupied
solely by Livistona. A species of Acacia and stringy-bark saplings formed
a thick underwood. The open lawns were adorned by various plants, amongst
which we noticed a species of Drosera, with white and red blossoms? a
Mitrasacme; a narrow-leaved Ruellia, the white primrose, the red
prostrate malvaceous plant, a low shrubby Pleurandra, and an orchideous
plant--one of the few representatives of this family in the Australian
tropics; the most interesting, however, was a prostrate Grevillea, with
oblong smooth leaves, and with thyrsi of fine scarlet flowers; which I
consider to be Grevillea Goodii, R. Br.
We crossed two small creeks, and, at the end of three miles, we came to a
Pandanus brook, the murmuring of whose waters over a rocky pebbly bed was
heard by us at a considerable distance. A broad foot-path of the natives
led along its banks, probably to large lagoons, of which it might be the
outlet. The country became flatter, more densely wooded, and gently
sloping to the northward, when we entered a tea-tree hollow, through
which the mirage indicated the presence of an immense plain, which we all
mistook for the Ocean. We crossed over it to a belt of trees, which I
thought to be its northern boundary. The part of the plain next to the
forest-land was composed of a loose black soil, with excellent grass;
farther on it was a cold clay, either covered with a stiff, dry grass,
apparently laid down by the rush of water, or forming flats bare of
vegetation, which seemed to have been occasionally washed by the tide.
Finding that the belt of trees was a thicket of mangroves along a
salt-water creek, I returned to some shallow lagoons near the forest, the
water of which was drinkable, though brackish and aluminous. To the
westward of the plains, we saw no other limit than two very distant
hills, which I took to be the two hills marked to the southward of the
embouchure of the South Alligator River. To the eastward, we saw another
narrow belt of trees; beyond which, however, the plain evidently
continued. Numerous pillars of smoke were seen to the westward.
A fine north-west breeze set in at three o'clock in the afternoon, and
refreshed us, as well as the cattle, which were suffering most severely
from heat and fatigue.
Dec. 2.--Whilst we were waiting for our bullock, which had returned to
the running brook, a fine native stepped out of the forest with the ease
and grace of an Apollo, with a smiling countenance, and with the
confidence of a man to whom the white face was perfectly familiar. He was
unarmed, but a great number of his companions were keeping back to watch
the reception he should meet with. We received him, of course, most
cordially; and upon being joined by another good-looking little man, we
heard him utter distinctly the words, "Commandant!" "come here!!" "very
good!!!" "what's your name? !!!!" If my readers have at all identified
themselves with my feelings throughout this trying journey; if they have
only imagined a tithe of the difficulties we have encountered, they will
readily imagine the startling effect which these, as it were, magic words
produced--we were electrified--our joy knew no limits, and I was ready to
embrace the fellows, who, seeing the happiness with which they inspired
us, joined, with a most merry grin, in the loud expression of our
feelings. We gave them various presents, particularly leather belts, and
received in return a great number of bunches of goose feathers, which the
natives use to brush away the flies. They knew the white people of
Victoria, and called them Balanda, which is nothing more than
"Hollanders;" a name used by the Malays, from whom they received it. We
had most fortunately a small collection of words, made by Mr. Gilbert
when at Port Essington; so that we were enabled to ask for water (obert);
for the road (allun); for Limbo cardja, which was the name of the
Harbour. I wished very much to induce them to become our guides; and the
two principal men, Eooanberry and Minorelli, promised to accompany us,
but they afterwards changed their minds.
My first object was to find good water, and our sable friends guided us
with the greatest care, pointing out to us the most shady road, to some
wells surrounded with ferns, which were situated in some tea-tree hollows
at the confines of the plains and the forest. These wells, however, were
so small that our horses could not approach to drink, so that we had to
go to another set of wells; where I was obliged to stop, as one of our
horses refused to go any farther. This place was about four miles E.N.E.
from our last camp. The wells were about six or eight feet deep, and dug
through a sandy clay to a stiff bed of clay, on which the water
collected. It would appear that the stiff clay of the plains had been
covered by the sandy detritus of the ridges, from which the water slowly
drained to the wells. It was evident, from the pains which the natives
had taken in digging them, that the supply of fresh water was very
precarious. In many instances, however, I observed that they had been
induced to do so, simply by the want of surface water in the immediate
neighbourhood of places where they obtained their principal supply of
food. This was particularly the case near the sea-coast, where no surface
water is found; whilst the various fish, and even vegetable productions,
attract the natives, who will, in such a case, even contract the habit of
going the longest possible time without water, or, at least, with very
little, as is well shown in Mr. Eyre's journey round the Australian
Bight. We had to water our horses and the bullock with the stew pot; and
had to hobble the latter, to prevent his straying, and attacking the
natives.
The natives were remarkably kind and attentive, and offered us the rind
of the rose-coloured Eugenia apple, the cabbage of the Seaforthia palm, a
fruit which I did not know, and the nut-like swelling of the rhizoma of
either a grass or a sedge. The last had a sweet taste, was very mealy and
nourishing, and the best article of the food of the natives we had yet
tasted. They called it "Allamurr" (the natives of Port Essington,
"Murnatt"), and were extremely fond of it. The plant grew in depressions
of the plains, where the boys and young men were occupied the whole day
in digging for it. The women went in search of other food; either to the
sea-coast to collect shell-fish,--and many were the broad paths which led
across the plains from the forest land to the salt-water--or to the
brushes to gather the fruits of the season, and the cabbage of the palms.
The men armed with a wommala, and with a bundle of goose spears, made of
a strong reed or bamboo (?), gave up their time to hunting. It seemed
that they speared the geese only when flying; and would crouch down
whenever they saw a flight of them approaching: the geese, however, knew
their enemies so well, that they immediately turned upon seeing a native
rise to put his spear into the throwing stick. Some of my companions
asserted that they had seen them hit their object at the almost
incredible distance of 200 yards: but, making all due allowance for the
guess, I could not help thinking how formidable they would have been had
they been enemies instead of friends. They remained with us the whole
afternoon; all the tribe and many visitors, in all about seventy persons,
squatting down with crossed legs in the narrow shades of the trunks of
trees, and shifting their position as the sun advanced. Their wives were
out in search of food; but many of their children were with them, which
they duly introduced to us. They were fine, stout, well made men, with
pleasing and intelligent countenances. One or two attempts were made to
rob us of some trifles; but I was careful; and we avoided the unpleasant
necessity of showing any discontent on that head. As it grew late, and
they became hungry, they rose, and explained that they were under the
necessity of leaving us, to go and satisfy their hunger; but that they
would shortly return, and admire, and talk again. They went to the
digging ground, about half a mile in the plain, where the boys were
collecting Allamurr, and brought us a good supply of it; in return for
which various presents were made to them. We became very fond of this
little tuber: and I dare say the feast of Allamurr with Eooanberry's and
Minorelli's tribe will long remain in the recollection of my companions.
They brought us also a thin grey snake, about four feet long, which they
put on the coals and roasted. It was poisonous, and was called "Yullo."
At nightfall, after filling their koolimans with water, there being none
at their camp, they took their leave, and retired to their camping place
on the opposite hill where a plentiful dinner awaited them. They were
very urgent in inviting us to accompany them, and by way of inducement,
most unequivocally offered us their sable partners. We had to take great
care of our bullock, as the beast invariably charged the natives whenever
he obtained a sight of them, and he would alone have prevented their
attacking us; for the whole tribe were so much afraid of him, that, upon
our calling out "the bullock," they were immediately ready to bolt; with
the exception of Eooanberry and Minorelli, who looked to us for
protection. I had not, however, the slightest fear and apprehension of
any treachery on the part of the natives; for my frequent intercourse
with the natives of Australia had taught me to distinguish easily between
the smooth tongue of deceit, with which they try to ensnare their victim,
and the open expression of kind and friendly feelings, or those of
confidence and respect. I remember several instances of the most
cold-blooded smooth-tongued treachery, and of the most extraordinary
gullibility of the natives; but I am sure that a careful observer is more
than a match for these simple children of nature, and that he can easily
read the bad intention in their unsteady, greedy, glistening eyes.
Dec. 3.--The natives visited us very early in the morning, with their
wives and children, whom they introduced to us. There could not have been
less than 200 of them present; they were all well made, active, generally
well-looking, with an intelligent countenance: they had in fact all the
characters of the coast blacks of a good country; but without their
treacherous dispositions. I started in a north-east direction; and as we
were accompanied by the natives, I led our bullock, by the noserope,
behind my horse. After crossing a plain, we were stopped by a large sheet
of salt-water, about three or four miles broad, at the opposite side of
which a low range was visible; when Eooanberry explained that we had to
go far to the south-east and south, before we could cross the river, and
that we had to follow it down again at the other side. He expressed his
great attachment to his wife and child, and obtained leave of us to
return to his tribe, which had already retired before him. Seeing the
necessity of heading the river, which I considered to be the East
Alligator; the longitude of which was, where we first came to it, 132
degrees 40 minutes according to reckoning; I returned to the forest land,
and travelled along its belt of Pandanus, to obtain a better ground for
our cattle, and to avoid the scorching heat of the forenoon sun.
Observing some singularly formed mountains rising abruptly out of the
plains and many pillars of smoke behind them, I tried to get to them, but
was again prevented by the broad salt water. We now steered for a distant
smoke to the south-east by east, and had travelled fully seventeen miles
on, or along extensive plains, when we perceived seven natives returning
on a beaten foot-path, from the salt water to the forest. We cooeed--they
ran! But when we had passed, and Charley stopped behind alone, they came
up to him, and, having received some presents, they showed us some
miserable wells between two tea-tree groves; after which they hastened
home. Our cattle were tired and thirsty, but we could give them nothing
to drink, except about six quarts of brackish water; which fell to the
share of our bullock. The feed, however, was rich and young, and during
the night a heavy dew was deposited, Many flocks of geese came flying low
over the plains, which made us hope that water was not very distant.
Whilst we were passing the head of a small Mangrove creek, four native
dogs, started out of a shady hole; but we looked in vain for fresh water.
The plains, which were very level, with a few melon-holes, were scattered
all over with dead Limnaeas, which showed evidently, that fresh, or
slightly brackish water, covered them occasionally, and for some length
of time. Since we first entered upon the large plains of the Alligator
Rivers, we had seen myriads of the small cockatoo (Cocatua sanguinea,
GOULD), which retired towards night, in long flights from the plains, to
the shade of the drooping tea-trees near the shallow pools of water on
which we encamped. We had also observed several retreats of flying-foxes
in the most shady parts of the Pandanus groves, receiving frequently the
first indication of them by the peculiar odour of the animal.
Cumuli formed very early in the morning, and increased during the day,
sending down showers of rain all round the horizon. The sea breeze set in
at 3 o'clock; and the weather cleared up at sunset, and during the first
part of the night; but after 1 o'clock A. M. became cloudy again, with
inclination to rain; heavy dew fell during the clear part of the night.
Dec. 4.--The natives returned very early to our camp. I went up to them
and made them some presents; in return for which they offered me bunches
of goose feathers, and the roasted leg of a goose, which they were
pleased to see me eat with a voracious appetite. I asked for Allamurr,
and they expressed themselves sorry in not having any left, and gave us
to understand that they would supply us, if we would stay a day. Neither
these natives nor the tribe of Eooanberry would touch our green hide or
meat: they took it, but could not overcome their repugnance, and tried to
drop it without being seen by us. Poor fellows! they did not know how
gladly we should have received it back! They were the stoutest and
fattest men we had met.
We travelled at first to the east, in the direction from which the geese
had come last night, but, arriving at ridges covered with scrubby forest,
we turned to the north-east, and continued in that direction about seven
miles and a half, over iron-stone ridges, when we again entered upon the
plains of the river. Mountains and columns of smoke were seen all along
its northern banks; but we afterwards found that most of those supposed
columns of smoke were dust raised by whirlwinds. We now followed the
river until a vine brush approached close to its bank, into the cool
shade of which our bullock rushed and lay down, refusing to go any
farther; our packhorse and most of our riding horses were also equally
tired. The bed of the river had become very narrow, and the water was not
quite brine, which made me hope that we should soon come to fresh water.
Charley, Brown, and John, had gone into the brush to a camp of
flying-foxes, and returned with twelve, which we prepared for luncheon,
which allowed our bullock time to recover. They gave an almost incredible
account of the enormous numbers of flying-foxes, all clustering round the
branches of low trees, which drooped by the weight so near to the ground
that the animals could easily be killed with endgels. The Seaforthia palm
raised its elegant crown far above the patches of vine brush which we
passed at the river side of the ridges.
After a delay of two hours, we again started, and travelled in a due
south direction towards some thick smoke rising between two steep and
apparently isolated rocky hills: they were about four miles distant, and,
when we arrived at their base, we enjoyed the pleasing sight of large
lagoons, surrounded with mangrove myrtles (Stravadium), with Pandanus,
and with a belt of reeds and Nelumbiums. Man, horse, and bullock, rushed
most eagerly into the fine water, determined to make up for the privation
and suffering of the three last days. The lagoons were crowded with
geese, and, as the close vegetation allowed a near approach, Brown made
good use of the few slugs that were still left, and shot ten of them,
which allowed a goose to every man; a great treat to my hungry party.
Dec. 5.--I determined upon stopping for a day, to allow our cattle to
recover. Every body was anxious to procure geese or flying-foxes; and,
whilst three of my companions went to the flying-fox camp which we had
visited yesterday, loaded with ironstone pebbles for shot, and full of
the most sanguine expectations, Brown was busy at the lagoons, and even
Mr. Roper stirred to try his good luck. The two met with a party of
natives, who immediately retreated at sight of Mr. Roper; but during the
afternoon they came to the other side of the lagoon opposite to our camp,
and offered us some fish, a Silurus (Mao) and a tench (?) which they had
speared in the lagoons. I made a sign for them to come over and to
receive, as presents in exchange, some small pieces of iron, tin
canisters, and leather belts; which they did; but they became exceedingly
noisy, and one of them, an old rogue, tried to possess himself quietly
and openly of every thing he saw, from my red blanket to the spade and
stew-pot. I consequently sent Brown for a horse, whose appearance quickly
sent them to the other side of the lagoon, where they remained until
night-fall. Brown offered them half a goose, which, however, they
refused; probably because it was not prepared by themselves, as they were
very desirous of getting some of the geese which we had not yet cooked.
Brown had shot nine geese, and our fox hunters returned with forty-four
of the small species.
When the natives became hungry, they ate the lower part of the
leaf-stalks of Nelumbium, after stripping off the external skin. They
threw a great number of them over to us, and I could not help making a
rather ridiculous comparison of our situation, and our hosts, with that
of the English ambassador in China, who was treated also with Nelumbium
by its rich Mandarins.
The natives seemed to speak a less melodious language, which might be
ascribed to the mountainous character of their country. I collected the
following names: Kobboyakka, Nobungop, Kanbinycx, Manguradja, Apirk
(Apek), Yaganyin, Kolar, Kadgupa, Gnanga Gnanga. Ayir meant stone spear;
Ekolpen, jagged fish-spear.
I made the latitude of these lagoons, by an observation of Castor, 12
degrees 23 minutes 19 seconds.
Dec. 6.--The natives visited us again this morning, and it was evident
that they had not been with their gins. They invited us to come to their
camp; but I wished to find a crossing place, and, after having tried in
vain to pass at the foot of the rocky hills, we found a passage between
the lagoons, and entered into a most beautiful valley, bounded on the
west, east, and south by abrupt hills, ranges, and rocks rising abruptly
out of an almost treeless plain clothed with the most luxuriant verdure,
and diversified by large Nymphaea lagoons, and a belt of trees along the
creek which meandered through it. The natives now became our guides, and
pointed out to us a sound crossing place of the creek, which proved to be
the head of the salt-water branch of the East Alligator River. We
observed a great number of long conical fish and crab traps at the
crossing place of the creek and in many of the tributary salt-water
channels; they were made apparently of Flagellaria. Here I took leave of
our guides: the leader of whom appeared to be "Apirk," a young and
slender, but an intelligent and most active man. We now travelled again
to the northward, following the outline of the rocky ridges at the right
side of the creek; and, having again entered upon the plains, we encamped
at a very broad, shallow, sedgy, boggy lagoon, surrounded with Typhas,
and crowded with ducks and geese, of which Brown shot four. It was about
four miles east of our yesterday's camp. Numerous flocks of the Harlequin
pigeon (Peristera histrionica, GOULD) came to drink at this lagoon; and
innumerable geese alighted towards the evening on the plain, and fed on
the young grass, moistened by the rain. The number of kites was in a fair
proportion to that of the geese; and dozens of them were watching us from
the neighbouring trees.
We found a new Eugenia, a tree of rather stunted growth, with broad
opposite leaves, and fruit of the size of an apple, of a delicate
rose-colour, and when ripe, a most delicious refreshment during a hot
day. We had frequently met with this tree on sandstone ridges, and in
sandy soils, but had never before found it in fruit. The day was
distressingly hot, but we had several light showers during the afternoon.
Dec. 7.--"Apirk," with seven other natives, visited us again in the
morning, and it seemed that they had examined the camp we had last left.
They gave us to understand that we could travel safely to the northward,
without meeting any other creek. Apirk carried a little pointed stick,
and a flat piece of wood with a small hole in it, for the purpose of
obtaining fire. I directed my course to a distant mountain, due north
from the camp, and travelled seven or eight miles over a large plain,
which was composed of a rich dark soil, and clothed with a great variety
of excellent grasses. We saw many columns of dust raised by whirlwinds;
and again mistook them for the smoke of so many fires of the natives. But
we soon observed that they moved in a certain direction, and that new
columns rose as those already formed drew off; and when we came nearer,
and passed between them, it seemed as if the giant spirits of the plain
were holding a stately corrobori around us. They originated on a patch of
ground divested of its vegetation by a late fire. There was a belt of
forest to the northward, and the current of the sea-breeze coming up the
valley of the river from N.N.W. seemed to eddy round the forest, and to
whirl the unsheltered loose earth into the air.
Towards the river, now to the west of our course, peaks, razor-backed
hills, and tents, similar to those we had observed when travelling at the
west side of the river on the 3rd December (and probably the same),
reappeared. To the east of the mountain, towards which we were
travelling, several bluff mountains appeared, which probably bounded the
valley of a river flowing to the northward, and disemboguing between the
Liverpool and Mount Morris Bay. For the last five miles of the stage, our
route lay through forest land; and we crossed two creeks going to the
east, and then came to rocky sandstone hills, with horizontal
stratification, at the foot of which we met with a rocky creek, in the
bed of which, after following it for a few miles, we found water. The
supply was small; but we enlarged it with the spade, and obtained a
sufficient supply for the night. A thunder-storm formed to the northward,
which drew off to the westward; but another to the north-east gave us a
fine shower, and added to the contents of our water-hole. A well-beaten
foot-path of the natives went down the creek to the south-east. My
latitude, according to an observation of Castor, was 12 degrees 11
minutes.
We saw the Torres Strait pigeon; a Wallooroo and a red kangaroo
(Osphranter Antilopinus, GOULD). The old camps of the natives, which we
passed in the forest, were strewed with the shells of goose eggs, which
showed what an important article these birds formed in the culinary
department of the natives; and, whilst their meat and eggs served them
for food, their feathers afforded them a protection against the flies
which swarmed round their bodies during the day.
The arborescent Vitex with ternate leaves, which I had first met with at
the Flying-Fox Creek of the Roper, was also observed here.
At this time we were all sadly distressed with boils, and with a prickly
heat; early lancing of the former saved much pain: the cuts and sores on
the hands festered quickly; but this depended much more on the want of
cleanliness than any thing else. A most dangerous enemy grew up amongst
us in the irresistible impatience to come to the end of our journey; and
I cannot help considering it a great blessing that we did not meet with
natives who knew the settlement of Port Essington at an earlier part of
our journey, or I am afraid we should have been exposed to the greatest
misery, if not destruction, by an inconsiderate, thoughtless desire of
pushing onward.
Dec. 8.--I went to the westward, to avoid the rocky ground, and if
possible to come into the valley of the East Alligator River, if the
country should not open and allow me a passage to the northward, which
direction I took whenever the nature of the country permitted. After
crossing the heads of several easterly creeks, we came upon a large
foot-path of the natives, which I determined to follow. It was, in all
probability, the same which went down the creek on which we had encamped
last night: it descended through a narrow rocky gully, down which I found
great difficulty in bringing the horses; and afterwards wound through a
fine forest land, avoiding the rocky hills, and touching the heads of
westerly creeks, which were well supplied with rocky basins of water. It
then followed a creek down into swampy lagoons, which joined the broad
irregular sandy bed of a river containing large pools and reaches of
water, lined with Pandanus and drooping tea-trees. This river came from
the eastward, and was probably the principal branch of the East Alligator
River, which joined the salt-water branch we had crossed in latitude
about 12 degrees 6 minutes. We met another foot-path at its northern
bank, which led us between the river and ranges of rocky hills, over a
country abounding with the scarlet Eugenia, of which we made a rich
harvest. We encamped at a fine lagoon, occupied, as usual, with geese and
ducks, and teeming with large fish, which were splashing about during the
whole night. The situation of these lagoons was, by an observation of
Castor, in lat. 12 degrees 6 minutes 2 seconds; and about nine miles
north-west from our last camp.
Immediately after our arrival, Brown went to shoot some geese, and met
with two natives who were cooking some roots, but they withdrew in great
haste as soon as they saw him. Soon afterwards, however, a great number
of them came to the opposite side of the lagoon, and requested a parley.
I went down to them with some presents, and a young man came over in a
canoe to met me. I gave him a tin canister, and was agreeably surprised
to find that the stock of English words increased considerably; that very
few things we had were new to him, and that he himself had been at the
settlement. His name was "Bilge." He called me Commandant, and presented
several old men to me under the same title. Several natives joined us,
either using the canoe, or swimming across the lagoon, and, after having
been duly introduced to me, I took four of them to the camp, where they
examined everything with great intelligence, without expressing the least
desire of possessing it. They were the most confiding, intelligent,
inquisitive natives I had ever met before. Bilge himself took me by the
hand and went to the different horses, and to the bullock and asked their
names and who rode them. The natives had always been very curious to know
the names of our horses, and repeated "Jim Crow," "Flourbag," "Caleb,"
"Irongrey," as well as they could, with the greatest merriment. Bilge
frequently mentioned "Devil devil," in referring to the bullock, and I
think he alluded to the wild buffaloes, the tracks of which we soon
afterwards saw. We asked him for "Allamurr;" and they expressed their
readiness to bring it, as soon as the children and women, who both went
under the denomination of Piccaninies, returned to the camp. The day
being far advanced, and their camp a good way off, they left us, after
inviting us to accompany them: but this I declined. About 10 o'clock at
night, three lads came to us with Allamurr; but they were very near
suffering for their kindness and confidence, as the alarm of
"blackfellows" at night was a call to immediate and desperate defence.
Suspecting, however, the true cause of this untimely visit, I walked up
to them, and led them into the camp, where I divided their Allamurr
between us; allowing them a place of honour on a tarpauling near me for
the remainder of the night, with which attention they appeared highly
pleased. The night was clear and dewy, but became cloudy with the setting
of the moon.
Dec. 9.--The natives came to our camp at break of day, and Bilge
introduced several old warriors of a different tribe, adding always the
number of piccaninies that each of them had; they appeared very
particular about the latter, and one of the gentlemen corrected Bilge
very seriously when he mentioned only two instead of three. Bilge had
promised to go with us to Balanda, but, having probably talked the matter
over during the night, with his wife, he changed his intentions; but
invited us in the most urgent manner, to stay a day at their camp.
Although no place could be found more favourable for feed and water, and
a day's rest would have proved very beneficial to our cattle, yet our
meat bags, on which we now solely depended, were so much reduced, that
every day of travelling was of the greatest importance; as the natives
told us that four days would bring us to the Peninsula, and two more to
Balanda. We crossed the plain to the westward, in order to avoid the low
rocks and rocky walls which bounded this fine country to the north and
east. After about three miles, however, we turned to the northward, and
travelled with ease through an open undulating forest, interrupted by
some tea-tree hollows. Just before entering the forest, Brown observed
the track of a buffalo on the rich grassy inlets between the rocks. After
proceeding about five miles we crossed a chain of fine Nymphaea ponds;
and, at five miles farther, we came upon a path of the natives, which we
followed to the eastward, along a drooping tea-tree swamp, in the outlet
of which we found good water. Our lat. was 11 degrees 56 minutes; about
ten miles and a half north by east, from Bilge's lagoon. Mitrasacme
elata, and all the other little plants I have before mentioned, were
growing in the stringy-bark forest. A flight of whistling ducks came at
night, and alighted on the ground near our camp; but departed as soon as
they saw us moving. Tracks of buffaloes were again observed by Charley.
The night was clear and very dry.
Dec. 10.--We travelled about seven miles to the northward; but kept for
the first three miles in a N.N.W. direction from our camp, when we came
to a small plain, with a Mangrove creek going to the westward; scarcely
two miles farther, we crossed a drooping tea-tree swamp, of which a
Pandanus creek formed the outlet; and, two miles farther still, a large
plain opened upon us, in which we saw a great number of natives occupied
in burning the grass, and digging for roots. All the country intervening
between the creeks and the plain was undulating stringy-bark forest. I
left my companions in the shady belt of drooping tea-trees, and rode with
Charley towards the natives, in order to obtain information. They were,
however, only women and children, and they withdrew at my approach,
although I had dismounted and left my horse far behind with Charley. They
had, however, allowed me to come near enough to make them understand my
incessant calls for "obeit," water, adding occasionally "Balanda; very
good; no good." When they had disappeared in the forest, Charley came
with the horse, and we reconnoitred along the boundaries of the plain to
find water, but not succeeding, we returned; and, when opposite to the
place where I had left my companions, I cooeed for them to come over to
me. My cooee was answered by natives within the forest, and, shortly
afterwards four men came running out of it, and approached us most
familiarly. They spoke English tolerably, knew the pipe, tobacco, bread,
rice, ponies, guns, etc.; and guided us to a fine lagoon, which I named
after the leading man of their tribe, "Nyuall's Lagoon." Two of them
promised to pilot us to Balanda and to "Rambal," which meant houses. They
were very confiding, and women and children entered for the first time
freely into our camp.
They examined every thing, but made not the slightest attempt to rob us
even of a trifle. When the women returned at night, they did not bring
"Allamurr," or, as it was here called, "Murnatt," but plenty of
"Imberbi," the root of Convolvolus, which grow abundantly in the plain:
they gave us a very seasonable supply of it, but would not taste our
dried beef, which they turned, broke, smelled, and then with a feeling of
pity and disgust returned to us. Nyuall gave an amusing account of our
state: "You no bread, no flour, no rice, no backi--you no good! Balanda
plenty bread, plenty flour, plenty rice, plenty backi! Balanda very
good!"
He, Gnarrangan, and Carbaret, promised to go with us; and the first
intended to take his wife with him. They imitated with surprising
accuracy the noises of the various domesticated animals they had seen at
the settlement; and it was amusing to hear the crowing of the cock, the
cackling of the hens, the quacking of ducks, grunting of pigs, mewing of
the cat, etc. evident proofs that these natives had been in Victoria.
A heavy thunder-storm passed over at 6 o'clock P. M. and the natives
either crowded into my tent, or covered their backs with sheets of
tea-tree bark, turning them to the storm, like a herd of horses or cattle
surprised by a heavy shower in the middle of a plain. Imaru lay close to
me during the night, and, in order to keep entire possession of my
blanket, I had to allow him a tarpauling.
Dec. 11.--We travelled about seven miles N.N.W. over an immense plain,
with forest land and rising ground to the eastward, in which direction
four prominent hills were seen, one of which had the abrupt peak form of
Biroa in Moreton Bay. The plain appeared to be unbounded to the westward.
When we approached the forest, several tracts of buffaloes were seen;
and, upon the natives conducting us along a small creek which came into
the plain from the N.N.E., we found a well beaten path and several places
where these animals were accustomed to camp. We encamped at a good-sized
water-hole in the bed of this creek, the water of which was covered with
a green scum. As the dung and tracks of the buffaloes were fresh, Charley
went to track them, whilst Brown tried to shoot some Ibises, which had
been at the water and were now perched on a tree about 300 yards off. At
the discharge of the gun a buffalo started out of a thicket, but did not
seem inclined to go far; Brown returned, loaded his gun with ball, went
after the buffalo and wounded him in the shoulder. When Charley came back
to the camp, he, Brown and Mr. Roper pursued the buffalo on horseback,
and after a long run, and some charges, succeeded in killing it. It was a
young bull, about three years old, and in most excellent condition. This
was a great, a most fortunate event for us; for our meat bags were almost
empty, and, as we did not wish to kill Redmond, our good companion, we
had the prospect of some days of starvation before us. We could now share
freely with our black friends, and they had not the slightest objection
to eat the fresh meat, after baking it in their usual manner. They called
the buffalo "Anaborro;" and stated that the country before us was full of
them. These buffaloes are the offspring of the stock which had either
strayed from the settlement at Raffles Bay, or had been left behind when
that establishment was broken up. They were originally introduced from
the Malay islands. I was struck with the remarkable thickness of their
skin, (almost an inch) and with the solidity of their bones, which
contained little marrow; but that little was extremely savoury.
We had a heavy thunder-storm at 10 o'clock at night from the southward.
Dec. 12.--Part of the meat was cut up and dried, and part of it was
roasted to take with us; a great part of it was given to the natives, who
were baking and eating the whole day; and when they could eat no more
meat, they went into the plains to collect "Imberbi" and Murnatt, to add
the necessary quantum of vegetable matter to their diet. The sultry
weather, however, caused a great part of the meat to become tainted and
maggotty. Our friend Nyuall became ill, and complained of a violent
headache, which he tried to cure by tying a string tightly round his
head.
The black ibis, cocatua, kites, crows, and a small black and white
species of heron, frequented our water-hole.
The night was extremely close, and, to find some relief, I took a bath;
which gave me, however, a very annoying inflammation of the eyes.
Dec. 13.--At day break, an old man, whom Nyuall introduced to us as
Commandant, came with his gin, and invited us to his camp, about two
miles off. We went to it with the intention of continuing our journey,
and found a great number of women and children collected in very spacious
huts or sheds, probably with the intention of seeing us pass. They had a
domestic dog, which seemed very ferocious. A little farther on, we came
to a small creek, with good water-holes, and our guides wished us to
stop; but, when I told them that we were desirous of reaching Balanda as
soon as possible, and added to my promise of giving them a blanket and a
tomahawk, that of a pint pot, Gnarrangan and Cabaret again volunteered,
and pursuaded a third, of the name of Malarang, to join them. For some
miles, we followed a beaten foot-path, which skirted the large plain, and
then entered the forest, which was composed of rusty-gum, leguminous
Ironbark, Cochlospermum gossypium, and a small apocynaceous tree
(Balfouria, Br.); we crossed several salt-water creeks which went down to
Van Diemen's Gulf. The country near these creeks, was more undulating,
the soil sandy and mixed with small ironstone pebbles; fine tea-tree
flats with excellent grass, on which the buffaloes fed, were frequent.
Along the plain, small clusters of brush protruded into it from the
forest, or covered low mounts of sea shells, mixed with a black soil.
Amongst these copses, the tracks of buffaloes were very numerous.
We travelled about ten miles north-west by north, and encamped at a small
pool of water in a creek, in which the clayey ironstone cropped out. Its
water was so impregnated with the astringent properties of the gum-trees,
that Mr. Phillips boiled and drank it like tea. Before arriving at this
creek, we had a thunder-storm, with heavy rain, from the northward. After
pitching our tents, our guides went out, and returned with a small Iguana
(Vergar), and with pods of the rose-coloured Sterculia, which they
roasted on the coals. I succeeded in saving a great part of our meat by
smoking it.
Our horses were greatly distressed by large horse-flies, and every now
and then the poor brutes would come and stand in the smoke of our fires
to rid themselves of their persevering tormentors. This want of rest
during the night contributed very much to their increasing weakness;
though most of them were severely galled besides, which was prevented
only in two by the most careful attention, and daily washing of their
backs. On this stage we again passed one of those oven-like huts of the
natives, thatched with grass, which I have mentioned several times, and
which Nyuall's tribe called "Corambal." At the place where we encamped,
the ruins of a very large hut were still visible, which indicated that
the natives had profited by their long intercourse with the Malays and
Europeans, in the construction of their habitations.
Dec. 14.--When we started, intending to follow the foot-path, our native
guides remained behind; and, when I had proceeded two or three miles, my
companions came up to me and stated, that the natives had left us, but
that they had given them to understand that the foot-path would conduct
us safely to Balanda. They had attempted to keep the large tomahawk, but
had given it up when Brown asked them for it. I was very sorry at their
having left us, as the cloudy sky had prevented me for several days from
taking any latitude, and determining my position. We crossed a great
number of small creeks, coming from the eastward, and draining the ridges
of the neck of the Peninsula. Scattered Pandanus and drooping tea-trees
grew on their banks as far as the fresh water extended; when they were
succeeded by the salt-water tea-tree and the mangrove, covering and
fringing their beds, which enlarged into stiff plains, without
vegetation, or into mangrove swamps. The latter were composed of
Aegiceras, Bruguiera, and Pemphis. The tracks of the buffaloes increased
in number as we advanced, and formed broad paths, leading in various
directions, and made me frequently mistake them for the foot-path of the
natives, which I eventually lost. A course north 30 degrees west, brought
us to easterly creeks, one of which I followed down, when Brown called
out that he saw the sea. We, therefore, went to the sea-side, and found
ourselves at the head of a large bay, with an island to the north-east,
and with headlands stretching far into the ocean, which was open and
boundless to the northward. It was Mount Morris Bay, with Valentia and
Crocker's islands; the latter, however, appeared to us to be a
continuation of the main land. We now went to the north-west and
westward, until we came again on westerly waters. The country in the
centre of the neck of the Peninsula, was very hilly, and some of the
ridges rose, perhaps, from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet
above the level of the sea; one or two hills were still higher. They were
all composed of a clayey ironstone, and clothed with patches of scrub,
formed principally of Calythrix, and with a more open forest of Cypress
pine, white-gum, tea-trees, bloodwood, Livistona palms, Pandanus, with
shrubby Terminalias and Coniogetons. The grass was dry, but high and
dense; and buffalo tracks spread in every direction, particularly down
the creeks, both to the eastward and westward.
We followed a westerly creek in all its windings, in order to detect
water in one of its rocky water-holes. The rock was shaly, of a greyish
colour, like the clay shale of Newcastle above the layers of the coal,
but more indurated. Patches of vine brush grew along the banks, and their
verdure led me frequently to expect the presence of water. We met,
however, only with salt-water, where the mangroves commenced, and had
consequently to continue our journey. Here we again came on the foot-path
of the natives, which skirted the mangrove swamps, and I followed it for
about three miles farther, crossed several dry watercourses, and at last
found some pools of rain water, in a small creek. I was fortunate enough
to make my latitude by an observation of Regulus, 11 degrees 32 minutes
11 seconds.
Dec. 15.--I followed the foot-path of the natives, with the intention of
continuing on it, until I came in sight of Mounts Bedwell and Roe. If I
had done so, much trouble would have been saved. But, after we had
travelled more than three hours, the country became very hilly and ridgy,
and I supposed that we were close to those mountains, but were prevented,
by the ridges, from seeing them. We went consequently to the northward,
and after an hour's riding over a hilly, but openly timbered country,
came to an easterly creek, which we followed down, until we found an
abundance of water. The upper part of this creek was very scrubby, and
with but little grass. I imagined that we had arrived at the west side of
Port Essington, and that the creek on which we encamped was probably the
Warvi. To ascertain this, I rode down the creek with Charley: it became
more open; limited flats of sandy alluvium were clothed with the
refreshing verdure of young grass, and with groves of Banksias; its
hollows were fringed with large drooping tea-trees. The creek itself was
a succession of shady water-holes, out of which, at our approach dashed
buffaloes, three and four at a time, shaking their muddy heads, as they
scrambled up the steep banks, and galloped to the neighbouring thickets.
The stiff sedges of the salt-water, and the salt-water tea-trees, made
their appearance about three miles from our camp; and it is probable that
the sea was scarcely half a mile farther. High hills rose to the
northward, openly timbered, but at their base with patches of scrub, and
very stony. Here we heard the distant cooees of natives, which we
answered, going in their direction, until we came to a camp, in which we
found an old lame man, "Baki Baki," and a short sturdy fellow, "Rambo
Rambo;" both of whom knew a great number of English words, and were quite
familiar with the settlement, and knew the Commandant, Mr. Macarthur.
They promised the guide us the next morning to Balanda, after having made
many inquiries about our stock of provisions and of tobacco. I made my
latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes 18 seconds, by an observation of Regulus;
which, allowing a possible error of a few miles, confirmed me in my
belief, that we were at the head of the harbour; particularly as Baki
Baki had told me that he had come this very morning from the settlement.
Dec. 16.--When we arrived with our whole train at the camp of the
natives, their behaviour was quite altered, and they now showed as little
inclination to guide us to the settlement, as they had been eager last
night to do so. I persuaded Baki Baki, however, to go, at least part of
the way; and, when we saw that he became tired, we mounted him on one of
the horses, and led it by the bridle. He pointed to the W.N.W. as the
direction in which the settlement lay. We travelled about five miles over
stony ironstone ridges, with extensive groves of Livistona palm covering
their slopes. Here Baki Baki desired to dismount; and, telling us that it
was a very good road to Balanda, took his leave and returned. Soon after
we came to a large creek full of water, running to the eastward, which we
followed up for a long distance, before we were able to cross. Our
pack-horse became bogged, and as it was so weak that it would not even
make an effort to extricate itself, and as I supposed that we were near
the settlement, we took off its pack-saddle and load, and left it behind.
We crossed two or three more watercourses; and continued the course
pointed out by the native, until it became very late, and I found myself
compelled to look for water; particularly as our bullock showed evident
symptoms of becoming knocked up. I therefore followed the fall of the
country to the north-east; and, in a short time, came to the sea-side. We
compared our little map of the harbour of Port Essington with the
configuration of the bay before us, but nothing would agree exactly,
although it bore a general resemblance to Raffles Bay.
A narrow belt of brush covered the approaches to the water; but the
scarlet Eugenia grew on the sandy flats towards the hilly forest; where
we also found a new tree, a species of Anacardium, which the natives
called "Lugula;" it bore a red succulent fruit, formed by the enlargement
of the stalk, with a greyish one-seeded nut outside, like Exocarpus. The
fruit was extremely refreshing; the envelope, however, contained such an
acrid juice that it ate into and discoloured my skin, and raised blisters
wherever it touched it: these blisters were not only followed by a simple
excoriation, but by a deep and painful ulceration. In the forest, we met
with some few small Seaforthia palms, the young shoots of which we
obtained with great difficulty, not then knowing how easily the natives
strip them of the surrounding leaves and leafstalks. I followed a a well
beaten foot-path of the natives to the northward, crossed a creek, in the
mangrove swamp of which another horse was bogged, which we extricated
after great exertion; and, after two or three miles, came to a large
fresh-water swamp (Marair) on which we encamped. The sun had long set,
and our cattle, as well as ourselves, were miserably tired. We were here
visited by a tribe of natives, who were well acquainted with the
settlement; they were all friendly, and willing to assist us; and many of
them spoke very tolerable English. One of them, apparently the chief of
the tribe, though a hunchback, named "Bill White," promised to guide us
to the settlement. He gave us to understand that we had come too far to
the northward, and that we had to go to the south-west, in order to head
Port Essington, and to follow its west coast, in order to arrive at
Victoria. We were, in fact, at Raffles Bay. The natives knew every body
in Victoria, and did not cease to give us all the news; to which we most
willingly listened. They fetched water for us from a great distance, and
gave us some Murnatt, which was extremely welcome. Perceiving the state
of exhaustion and depression in which we were, they tried to cheer us
with their corrobori songs, which they accompanied on the Eboro, a long
tube of bamboo, by means of which they variously modulated their voices.
I may mention that we experienced a heavy thunder-storm during the
afternoon.
Dec. 17.--We started, with a willing guide, for the goal of our journey,
and travelled to the south-west over a hilly country, covered with groves
of the Livistona palm, which, as we proceeded became mixed with
Seaforthia (the real cabbage-palm). A fine large creek, containing a
chain of large water-holes went to the north-east, and disembogued
probably into Bremer's Bay. We followed it for three or four miles
towards its head; and, when crossing it, we had a very heavy
thunder-storm; at the earliest hour we had ever witnessed one. The
Seaforthia palm because very abundant, and at last the forest was formed
entirely of it, with trees of every size. Our guide showed us how we
could easily obtain the young shoots, by splitting the leaves and
leafstalks; and we enjoyed a fine meal of the cabbage. Our bullock
refused to go any farther, and, as I then knew that the settlement was
not very distant, I unloaded him, and covered his packsaddle and load
with tarpaulings, and left him to recruit for a few days; when I intended
to send for him. As we approached the harbour, the cabbage palm became
rarer, and entirely disappeared at the head of it. We crossed several
creeks running into the harbour, until we arrived at the Matunna, a dry
creek, at which the foot-path from Pitchenelumbo (Van Diomen's Gulf)
touched the harbour, and on which we should have come last night. We
followed it now, crossed the Warvi, the Wainunmema, and the Vollir--all
which enlarged into shallow lagoons or swamps, before they were lost
between the mangrove thickets. At the banks of the Vollir, some constant
springs exist, which induced Sir Gordon Bremer to choose that place for a
settlement, and on which Victoria at present stands. All these creeks
were separated from each other by a hilly forest land; but small fertile
flats of sandy alluvium, clothed with young grass, and bordered by
Banksias, extended along their banks. The forest was principally composed
of stringy-bark, the leguminous Ironbark, Melaleuca-gum, with underwood
of Acacias, Coniogeton, Pachynemas, Pultenaeas? and Careya? A tree very
much resembling the real Ironbark (Eucalyptus resinifera) was observed at
the Warvi; but I expect it will be found entirely different. The
stringy-bark and the drooping tea-tree were the only useful timber near
the settlement. The Cypress-pine (Callitris) could, however, be obtained
without any great difficulty from Mount Morris Bay, or Van Diemen's Gulf.
On the Vollir, we came on a cart road which wound round the foot of a
high hill; and, having passed the garden, with its fine Cocoa-nut palms,
the white houses, and a row of snug thatched cottages burst suddenly upon
us; the house of the Commandant being to the right and separate from the
rest. We were most kindly received by Captain Macarthur, the Commandant
of Port Essington, and by the other officers, who, with the greatest
kindness and attention, supplied us with every thing we wanted. I was
deeply affected in finding myself again in civilized society, and could
scarcely speak, the words growing big with tears and emotion; and, even
now, when considering with what small means the Almighty had enabled me
to perform such a long journey, my heart thrills in grateful
acknowledgement of his infinite kindness.
After a month's stay at Port Essington, the schooner Heroine, Captain
Mackenzie, arrived from Bally, on her voyage to Sydney, via Torres Strait
and the Inner Barrier, a route only once before attempted with success.
We embarked in this vessel, and arrived safely in Sydney, on the 29th of
March. To the generous attentions of Captain Mackenzie our party owe
much; and, at his hospitable table, we soon forgot the privations of our
late journey. At Sydney, a reception awaited us, the warmth and kindness
of which, it is out of my power to describe. All classes pressed forward
to testify their joy at our reappearance, which, we found, had been long
despaired of, and to offer their aid in supplying our wants. A public
subscription was set on foot, which, in a very few weeks, by the liberal
contributions which flowed in from all parts of the Colony, amounted to
upwards of Fifteen Hundred pounds; and in the Legislative Council, a
motion was brought forward, which, by the unanimous vote of that House,
and the ready concurrence of His Excellency, Sir George Gipps, the
Governor, devoted a Thousand Pounds out of the Public Revenue to our use.
In the Appendix to this volume, will be found the very handsome letter,
in which the Hon. Mr. E. Deas Thomson, the Colonial Secretary, conveyed
to me this resolution of the Government; and an account of the
proceedings taken at the School of Arts, on the 21st September, when His
Honor, The Speaker, Dr. C. Nicholson, presented me with that portion of
the public subscription, which the Committee of the Subscribers had
awarded. In laying these documents before the Public, I will leave it to
be supposed how vain would be any attempt of mine to express my gratitude
to that generous people to whom I have inscribed this humble narrative.
APPENDIX.
LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT.
Colonial Secretary's Office,
Sydney, 25th June, 1846.
Sir,--I do myself the honour to inform you that the Auditor General has
been requested to prepare a warrant for the payment, out of the Crown
Revenue, of a gratuity of 1000 pounds to yourself and party which
accompanied you in your recent expedition to Port Essington; in
consideration of the successful issue of that very perilous enterprise;
the fortitude and perseverance displayed by the persons engaged in it;
and the advantages derived from it to the Colony; and I beg to add, that
it is with much gratification that I make this communication to you.
The money is to be divided in the manner stated below, which the Governor
has considered reasonable, after weighing all the circumstances of the
case, and advising with the gentleman who waited on His Excellency on
Friday the 11th instant, and who formed a deputation from the Committee,
who have superintended the collection and distribution of the money (1400
pounds.) raised in Sydney by voluntary subscription, in testimony of the
services rendered to the Colony by you and your companions, viz.
Dr. Leichhardt 600 pounds
Mr. Calvert 125
Mr. Roper 125
John Murphy 70
W. Phillips, who has already received
from the Government a pardon 30
The two aboriginal natives,
Charles Fisher and Harry Brown 50
----
1000
The 50 pounds for the two Blacks will be lodged in the Savings' Bank, and
will not be drawn out without the approval of the Vice President of that
Institution. I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient Servant,
(Signed) E. DEAS THOMSON,
COLONIAL SECRETARY.
* * * * *
THE LEICHHARDT TESTIMONIAL.
[Extract from the Sydney Herald, Sept. 22, 1846.]
Yesterday afternoon, a meeting of the subscribers to the Leichhardt
Testimonial was held in the School of Arts.
At half-past three o'clock the Honourable the Speaker of the Legislative
Council entered the room with Dr. Leichhardt, who was received with loud
applause.
As soon as silence was restored, the Speaker rose and addressed Dr.
Leichhardt. He said, The duty has been assigned to me of presenting to
you, on behalf of a numerous body of colonists, an acknowledgment of the
grateful sense they entertain of the services rendered by you to the
cause of science and to the interests of this colony. Whilst I fully
participate in the admiration with which your merits are universally
acknowledged, I confess that I shrink from the task now imposed upon me,
from a sense of my inability to do justice to it in language commensurate
with the occasion. For indeed it would be difficult to employ any terms
that might be considered as exaggerated, in acknowledging the enthusiasm,
the perseverance, and the talent which prompted you to undertake, and
enabled you successfully to prosecute, your late perilous journey through
a portion of the hitherto untrodden wilds of Australia. An enthusiasm
undaunted by every discouragement, a perseverance unextinguished by
trials and hardships which ordinary minds would have despaired of
surmounting, a talent which guided and led you on to the full and final
achievement of your first and original design.
It is needless for me to recall to the recollection of those around me,
the circumstances under which the project of undertaking an overland
journey to Port Essington was formed. The smallness of your party, and
the scantiness of its equipment, the length and unknown character of the
country proposed to be traversed, induced many to regard the scheme as
one characterised by rashness, and the means employed as wholly
inadequate towards carrying out the object in view. Many withheld their
support from a dread lest they might be held as chargeable with that
result which their sinister forebodings told them was all but inevitable
with a small but adventurous band. You nevertheless plunged into the
unknown regions that lay before you. After the lapse of a few months
without any tidings of your progress or fate, the notion became generally
entertained that your party had fallen victims to some one of the many
dangers it had been your lot to encounter; that you had perished by the
hands of the hostile natives of the interior; that want of water or
exposure to tropical climate were even but a few of the many evils to
which you had rendered yourself liable, and to the influence of some one
or more of which it was but too probable you had fallen a prey. Two
parties successively went out with the hope of overtaking you, or at
least of ascertaining some particulars of your fate. The result of these
efforts was, however, fruitless, and but few were so sanguine as to
believe in the possibility of you or your comrades being still in
existence. I need not recall to the recollection of those here present,
the surprise, the enthusiasm, and the delight, with which your sudden
appearance in Sydney was hailed, about six months ago. The surprise was
about equal to what might be felt at seeing one who had risen from the
tomb; a surprise, however, that was equalled by the warm and cordial
welcome with which you were embraced by every colonist; and when we
listened to the narrative of your long and dreary journey--the hardships
you had endured, the dangers you had braved, the difficulties you had
surmounted--the feeling with which your return amongst us was greeted,
became one of universal enthusiasm. For it would indeed be difficult to
point out, in the career of any traveller, the accomplishment of an
equally arduous undertaking, or one pregnant with more important results,
whether we contemplate them in a scientific, an economical, or a political
point of view. The traversing, for the first time by civilised man, of so
large a portion of the surface of this island, could not fail to be
attended with many discoveries deeply interesting to the scientific
inquirer, in botany, geology, and zoology. Your contributions to each of
these departments of knowledge have consequently been equally novel and
valuable. In a social and economical point of view, it is difficult, if
not impossible, to over-estimate the importance of the discovery recently
made of an all but boundless extent of fertile country, extending to the
north, soon to be covered with countless flocks and herds, and calculated
to become the abode of civilized man. In its political aspect, the
possession of an immense territory, now for the first time discovered to
be replete with all those gifts of nature which are necessary for the
establishment and growth of a civilized community, cannot be regarded as
a fact of small importance; nor the possession of a continuous tract of
fine and fertile land, that connects us with the shores of the Indian
ocean, and which would appear to render the Australian continent a mere
extension of the Anglo-Indian empire as a matter of indifference. It
would be almost impossible to exaggerate the importance of these
considerations; I shall, however, abstain from occupying your time by
dwelling upon what must be so obvious to all. The Colonists of New South
Wales, Dr. Leichhardt, have been anxious to evince their gratitude to you
for all that you have done in behalf of this their adopted country. As
soon as your return was announced, subscriptions were entered into for
the purpose of presenting to you a suitable testimonial. To the fund
raised for this purpose persons of all classes, and from every quarter of
the colony, have contributed. The sum that has been raised amounts to
1518 pounds 18 shillings 6 pence. The Executive, with a laudable
emulation, have presented you a sum of 1000 pounds from the Crown
revenue. Gratifying as this demonstration must doubtlessly prove to your
feelings, it is unquestionably beneath your deserts; and the substantial
reward due to your past exertions will be found in the undying glory of
having your name enrolled amongst those of the great men whose genius and
enterprise have impelled them to seek for fame in the prosecution of
geographical science--with those of Niebuhr, Burckhardt, Park,
Clapperton, Lander, and, in Australian geography, with those of Oxley,
Cunningham, Sturt, Eyre, and Mitchell. In these days of universal
knowledge, when there are so many competitors for distinction in every
department of science, few attain the desired goal of scientific
eminence. Perhaps no one has so fair a chance of giving immortality to
his name as he who has first planted his foot where civilized man had
never before trodden. The first chapter in the history of Australia, some
thousand years hence, will present a narration of those adventurous
spirits--of the exploits of those who may fairly be considered its first
conquerors, and by whose peaceful triumphs an empire had been added to
the parent state. I cannot close this brief address without indulging in
an aspiration for the safety and success of one now engaged in an
enterprise similar to that from which you hate earned so much honour. I
allude to Sir T. Mitchell. To enter upon any eulogium of the character or
abilities of that distinguished officer on the present occasion,
is uncalled for; the enterprise in which he is engaged must command
the sympathy of every person here present, and I am sure of no one
more than of yourself. In enterprises such as those in which both
he and yourself are engaged, it may fairly be said the harvest is
plentiful, the labourers are few--a kindred taste and zeal in the
pursuit of a common object can be attended with no other than a
worthy and generous emulation. It only remains for me to add one
word to what I have already said--you have disclosed your intention
of starting within a few weeks from the present time on another
exploratory expedition. From your past career we may all safely indulge
in sanguine anticipations as to your future success. That Providence may
guide you in your wanderings and crown your future labours with new
laurels is the ardent wish of all on whose behalf I now address you. Let
me, however, beg that you will guard, against any unnecessary exposure to
risk, that life in the preservation of which we all feel so deep a
concern. With the assurance of the gratitude, esteem, and admiration of
my brother colonists, permit me now to present you with 854 pounds, being
the proportion of the public subscription awarded to you.
Dr. LEICHHARDT (who was evidently deeply affected) said: Mr. Chairman and
Gentlemen, I thank you for the munificent gift with which you have
honoured me--I thank you for the congratulations for the past--for your
kind wishes for my approaching expedition. [Note. 1] I feel the more the
weight of your generous liberality, as I am conscious how much your
kindness has overvalued my deserts; but I shall try to render myself
worthy of it; and I hope that the Almighty, who has so mercifully taken
care of me on my former expedition, will grant me skill and strength to
continue my explorations, and will render them equally successful and
beneficial to this colony. May his blessings attend the generous people
who have shown, by the honours they have done me, how great an interest
they take in the advancement of discovery.
Mr. C. COWPER then moved a vote of thanks to the Committee and their
Secretary, which was acknowledged by Mr. R. GRAHAM, when the business of
the meeting closed.
Those who appreciate the value of Dr. Leichhardt's scientific exploration
of the country from Moreton Bay to Port Essington, and who feel any
interest in his record of the difficulties of his enterprise, will be
glad to learn that the Royal Geographical Society of London has recently
awarded him the Queen's Gold Medal, in acknowledgment of his services;
and that the Royal Geographical Society of Paris has likewise adjudged
him its Gold Medal of this year.
[Note 1. The object of the new Expedition here alluded to, Is to explore
the Interior of Australia, to discover the extent of Sturt's Desert and
the character of the Western and North-Western Coast, and to observe the
gradual change in vegetation and animal life from one side of the
Continent to the other.
Dr. Leichhardt does not expect to be able to accomplish this overland
journey to Swan River, in less than two years and a half. According to a
letter written by him on the eve of his departure (Dec. 6, 1846); his
party consisted of six whites, and two blacks; he had purchased thirteen
mules, twelve horses, and two hundred and seventy goats; and bad received
forty oxen, three mules, and two horses, as presents. He then purposed to
travel over his old route, as far as Peak Range, and then to shape his
course westwards; but thought it not impossible, as his course depends on
water, that be should be obliged to reach the Gulf of Carpentaria, and
then to follow up some river to its source.--Ed.]
The End
*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia : from Moreton Bay to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during the years 1844-1845" ***
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