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Title: With God in the Yellowstone
Author: White, Alma
Language: English
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[Illustration: ALMA WHITE]
WITH GOD IN THE
YELLOWSTONE
BY
ALMA WHITE
AUTHOR OF
_Looking Back from Beulah_ (in both English
and German), _Gems of Life_, _Golden Sunbeams_,
_Demons and Tongues_, _The Chosen People_, _My
Trip to the Orient_, _The New Testament Church_
(2 vols.), _The Titanic Tragedy--God Speaking
to the Nations_, _Truth Stranger than Fiction_,
_Why I do not Eat Meat_, _Restoration of Israel,
the Hope of the World_, _The Story of My Life_
(Vol. I); and Editor of the _Pillar of Fire_, the
_Good Citizen_, the _Rocky Mountain Pillar of Fire_,
the _London Pillar of Fire_, the _British Sentinel_,
and the _Occidental Pillar of Fire_.
PILLAR of FIRE
Zarephath,--New Jersey
1920
_Copyright, 1920, by Alma White_
PREFACE
In this volume I have attempted not simply to give a brief account of
a recent trip to Yellowstone National Park and to describe some of
Nature's grandeurs, but to elucidate spiritual truths that were
demonstrated in this place of many "wonders" in a thousand miracles
before my eyes.
There is no more poetical, picturesque, and fascinating spot on the
globe, and no other place where magnificence and sublimity blend so
harmoniously with the softest tints and colorings as in the
Yellowstone region.
Here are geological formations in which the book of ages has been
written in inks of variegated hues. In the canyons, rivers, and
waterfalls, in the lakes, springs, and pools, specimens of Eden have
been preserved on the outside of a thin crust, covering the sulphurous
flames of the regions below, where the rumblings of God's wrath are
heard threatening the world with judgments.
The mighty forces that operated in ages past are still at His command,
demonstrated by the boiling springs, the volcanoes and spouting
geysers. Ten thousand omens are heralding the approach of the
winding-up of this age, and the beginning of a new dispensation in
which all men shall acknowledge Jehovah in His majesty and power as
the one and only Potentate worthy of the adoration and homage of the
human race.
CONTENTS
PAGE
Historical Statement 9
CHAPTER I--Enroute to the Park 19
CHAPTER II--Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone 33
CHAPTER III--Upper and Lower Falls 47
CHAPTER IV--Mammoth Hot Springs 59
CHAPTER V--Norris Geyser Basin 73
CHAPTER VI--Upper Geyser Basin 84
CHAPTER VII--Upper Geyser Basin (Cont.) 102
CHAPTER VIII--The Bottomless Pit 109
CHAPTER IX--The Voice of God 123
The Yellowstone and How it was Made 136
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
ALMA WHITE _Frontispiece_
Map of Yellowstone Park 8
Group of Bannock Indian War Chiefs 12
Bannock Indian Papoose 14
Arch at Northern Entrance to Yellowstone Park 18
Shoshone Canyon 22
Shoshone Dam 24
The Holy City 27
Pahaska Tepee Lodge 29
Chittenden Bridge 32
Sylvan Lake 35
Yellowstone Lake 37
Eagle's Nest Rock 40
Grand Canyon, from Inspiration Point 42
Willow Park Camp 45
Lower Yellowstone Fall 48
Bear Feeding "A La Carte" 52
Upper Yellowstone Fall 55
Beaver Dam 61
Mammoth Hot Springs 63
Fort Yellowstone 66
Obsidian Cliff 69
Roaring Mountain 72
Norris Geyser Basin 75
National Park Mountain 78
"Hell's Half Acre" 80
Mammoth Paint Pots 83
Office Old Faithful Inn 85
Old Faithful Geyser 86
Giantess Geyser in Action 89
The Sponge Geyser 93
The Beehive Geyser 95
Castle Geyser 98
Butterfly Spring 100
Riverside Geyser 105
Giant Geyser 107
Morning Glory Spring 108
Grotto Geyser 111
Sapphire Pool--Biscuit Basin 114
Punch Bowl 116
Handkerchief Pool 118
Emerald Pool 121
Jupiter Terrace 125
Buffalo Herd 127
Elk Stalled in Snow 130
Golden Gate Canyon and Viaduct 132
[Illustration: MAP OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK]
HISTORICAL STATEMENT
In a book entitled, _The Discovery of Yellowstone Park_, written by
Nathaniel P. Langford, the author gives an account of an expedition of
130 persons who started from St. Paul, June 16, 1862, for the Salmon
River, as it had been widely rumored that extensive placer mines had
been discovered there. The expedition was led by Captain James L.
Fisk, the noted Indian fighter. Among his assistants were E. H.
Burritt, Nathaniel P. Langford, and Samuel R. Bond, who acted as
secretary. David E. Folsom, Robert C. Knox, Cornelius Bray, Patrick
Doherty, Ard Godfrey, and Patrick Bray, were selected for guard duty.
Many well-known pioneers of Montana were in this company, whose names
are familiar to the writer.
After eighteen weeks of hazardous adventure, the expedition arrived,
on the 23d of October, at Grasshopper Creek. The weather being too
cold for them to proceed on the journey, they decided to camp in that
locality for the winter. This region was then the rendezvous of the
Bannack Indians; and the St. Paul expedition named the settlement
Bannack.
To me it is a strange coincidence that this expedition of pioneers
should have left St. Paul on the day of my birth, the 16th of June,
1862; and that on March 31st, 1882, a little more than nineteen years,
later, I should reach this same locality, having been engaged to teach
the Bannack public school, which I began the 4th of April.
Frequently the early history of the town and its inhabitants was
rehearsed in my hearing, but many deplored the fact that some of the
old-timers had moved to Virginia City, Helena, Butte, and other
places, and that the placer mines of Bannack were not so prosperous as
in former days. But there were enough of the pioneers left to keep
fresh in the memories of the younger generation the stories of
adventures with wild beasts, the Indians, etc. Some of the stories
were looked upon as fabrications, while others were known to be plain
statements of facts.
I heard so much about the Indians, their reprisals and cruelty, that I
lived in constant dread of them, even when there was no cause for
alarm. A short time before I reached Montana, which was then a
territory, there had been an uprising of some tribes, and a number of
persons living in Bannack and vicinity had been killed. When they were
on the warpath at this particular time, the inhabitants of Bannack had
to barricade themselves in the new brick courthouse and stay for days
to protect themselves from a general slaughter.
I was not afraid of the squaws with their papooses strapped to boards
on their backs, but when the "bucks," as they were called, pressed
their flat noses against the window-panes asking for muck-a-muck
(food), they frightened me so that I could not get over it for hours.
No one else seemed to have any fear of them, even though harrowing
stories were everywhere being told about their treachery and cruelty.
I made my home with Aunt Eliza, my mother's sister, who had married
Dillon B. Mason, a pioneer of Montana, about ten years before. It was
she who had engaged the public school for me and had insisted on my
coming to Montana, from Kentucky, to teach at Bannack.
When the Indians on their foraging expeditions came around to the
back door and windows of the kitchen, it seemed to be my lot to see
them first. When they saw how I was disturbed at their presence, they
would throw their heads back and laugh, and say, "White squaw, heaply
big fool." My uncle and aunt were always on friendly terms with them,
calling them John, Jim, and other familiar names. This pleased them
very much, especially when food was given them; and I knew they would
be around again in a few days, much to my annoyance.
[Illustration: No 61 A GROUP OF BANNOCK WAR CHIEFS POCATELLO IDAHO]
Patrick Bray of Bannack, whose name is mentioned in the St. Paul
expedition, was one of the old pioneers who could tell more "blood and
thunder" stories than anyone else in the community.
[Illustration: No 58 BANNOCK PAPOOSE POCATELLO IDAHO]
In 1870, a party composed of some of the most prominent citizens of
Montana, under the leadership of General Washburn, then the
Surveyor-General of the Territory, went on an exploring expedition to
the Yellowstone regions. The names of some of the members of this
party were household words in the early days of Montana, and familiar
to the writer. Among them were Cornelius Hedges, Nathaniel P.
Langford, the first superintendent of the Park, T. C. Everts, S. T.
Hauser, and Lieut. G. C. Doane. The reader will note the fact that N.
P. Langford was a member of the St. Paul party under the leadership of
Captain Fisk, that landed on Grasshopper Creek, Montana, in the fall
of 1862; and much of the success of the expedition was due to his
heroism. Also much credit is due him for his unabating devotion to the
cause of the republic, and the service he rendered in having the
region set apart as a National Park, March 1st, 1872. Until this time,
there were no restrictions on hunting, trapping, gathering of
specimens, etc., or to fencing in the geysers by private individuals.
THE ACT OF THE DEDICATION OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, approved March
1st, 1872, was as follows:
"BE IT ENACTED BY THE SENATE AND THE HOUSE OF
REPRESENTATIVES OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA IN CONGRESS
ASSEMBLED:
"That the tract of land in the Territories of Montana and
Wyoming, lying near the headwaters of the Yellowstone River,
and described as follows, to-wit: Commencing at the junction
of Gardiner River with the Yellowstone River, and running
east to the meridian passing ten miles to the eastward of
the most eastern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence south
along the said meridian to the parallel of latitude passing
ten miles south of the most southern point of Yellowstone
Lake; thence west along said parallel to the meridian
passing fifteen miles west of the most western point of
Madison Lake; thence north along said meridian to the
latitude of the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner
Rivers; thence east to place of beginning--is hereby
reserved and withdrawn from settlement, occupancy or sale
under the laws of the United States, and dedicated and set
apart as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit
and enjoyment of the people; and all persons who shall
locate, settle upon or occupy the same or any part thereof,
except as hereinafter provided, shall be considered
trespassers and removed therefrom.
"Sec. 2. The said public Park shall be under the exclusive
control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it
shall be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such
rules and regulations as he may deem necessary and proper
for the care and management of the same. Such regulations
shall provide for the preservation from injury or spoliation
of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities or
wonders within said park and their retention in their
natural condition.
"The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for
building purposes, for terms not exceeding ten years, of
small parcels of ground, at such places in said park as
shall require the erection of buildings for the
accommodation of visitors; all the proceeds of said leases,
and all other revenues that may be derived from any source
connected with said park, to be expended under his direction
in the management of the same, and the construction of roads
and bridle paths therein. He shall provide against the
wanton destruction of the fish and game found within said
park, and against their capture or destruction for the
purpose of merchandise or profit. He shall also cause all
persons trespassing upon the same after the passage of this
act to be removed therefrom, and generally shall be
authorized to take all such measures as shall be necessary
or proper to fully carry out the objects and purpose of this
act."
[Illustration: ARCH AT NORTHERN ENTRANCE TO YELLOWSTONE PARK,
DEDICATED BY THEODORE ROOSEVELT]
With God In the Yellowstone
CHAPTER I
ENROUTE TO THE PARK
On September 2, 1919, I left Zarephath, New Jersey for Denver,
Colorado. Seven days later, accompanied by my brother and his wife,
Rev. Charles W. and Lillian O. Bridwell, I started on a trip to the
Yellowstone National Park. Traffic on the railroads was so heavy out
of Denver that we had some difficulty in getting properly routed, but
finally succeeded. Twenty-four hours later, we reached Cody, Wyoming,
the eastern entrance to the Park. We secured lodging at the Irma
Hotel, founded by William F. Cody (Buffalo Bill), and named for his
favorite daughter.
On the walls of the office and in the halls of this hotel were
splendid paintings, in which the whole history of the famous
frontiersman and Indian fighter was shown. Hours could profitably be
spent studying these pictures, in which one could learn more about the
"Wild West," of former days, than one could get from the average
history. All of the famous Indian chiefs were there, among them, Red
Cloud, Sitting Bull, and Black Bird. Their features were so perfectly
outlined I almost felt I was looking into their faces.
There were so many tourists we were fortunate in getting
accommodations at this place, when arrangements had not been made
ahead. Since I felt the need of rest, and my brother wanted more
information concerning the tour through the Park, we concluded to stay
over for a day. We held an open-air Gospel meeting here, and had the
opportunity of getting acquainted with some of the people whom we told
about the work of the Pillar of Fire organization.
At one time we had about decided to hire an automobile and drive
through the Park, but later, concluded it would be too much of an
undertaking, and made arrangements with the Yellowstone Park
Transportation Company to take us through for about forty-three
dollars each; this included board and lodging at the Yellowstone
Camps.
At 8:15, on the morning of September 12, we boarded one of the big,
yellow touring-cars, with a number of other passengers, and proceeded
on our journey. We had nothing to do with the selection of our
automobile party, but could not have been better suited. About four
miles west of Cody, we entered the SHOSHONE CANYON, three miles from
the first tunnel. In the meantime, we were climbing up the
mountainside so rapidly that it was soon hundreds of feet to the chasm
below.
In a little while we reached the top of the SHOSHONE DAM, to the left,
and here made our first stop. The scenery, while approaching and when
leaving the dam, was the most magnificent I have ever beheld.
Word-pictures fail to give even a slight idea of the depths of the
canyon, the wonderful tints and hues caused by mineral formations and
volcanic action in ages past. The trees on either side were of such
immense height, that I was almost staggered. I was not expecting
anything like this, on the run from Cody to the boundary of the Park;
and surprises awaited me every moment of the time.
While waiting at the dam, I copied from a board the following
dimensions:
[Illustration: SHOSHONE CANYON © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
Height, 328 feet,
Thickness at base, 108 feet,
Thickness at top, 10 feet,
Length of crest, 200 feet,
Capacity of reservoir, 456,000 acre-feet,
Area of water surface, 10 square miles,
Maximum width, 4 miles,
Maximum depth, 233 feet,
Length of spillway, 300 feet,
Work begun, 1905,
Work completed, 1910,
Total cost, $1,354,000.
The scenery approaching the dam on both sides, was to me so
unparalleled and inspiring, my heart cried out with the Psalmist:
"Lord, thou hast been our dwelling place in all generations. Before
the mountains were brought forth, or ever thou hadst formed the earth
and the world, even from everlasting to everlasting, thou art God....
For a thousand years in thy sight are but as yesterday when it is
past, and as a watch in the night."
After leaving the dam, we passed slowly through the third, fourth,
fifth, and sixth tunnels. Twelve miles from Cody we had a magnificent
view of the great SHOSHONE RESERVOIR at our left. Then we passed the
Morris Ranch, crossed the bridge over the Shoshone River and turned
to the right. We passed a school house, Hollister's Ranch, Frost and
Richard's Ranch, entered Shoshone National Forest and took the left
side road to Canyon Forest Ranger Station. Two miles farther was the
overhanging Rock Cliff, and other places of less importance between it
and the Holy City at the right.
[Illustration: SHOSHONE DAM © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
About forty-one miles from Cody we came to the Palisades; then
followed Mesa Creek, Good Camp, Elephant Head at the right, Mutilated
Hand, and Eagle Creek. About fifty-three miles from Cody we arrived at
PAHASKA TEPEE LODGE, founded by Buffalo Bill. This station is only two
miles from the boundary of the Park. The yellow cars turn in at the
lodge for luncheon. A stop of about an hour and a half was allowed
here. The house is built of unplaned logs with a large fireplace and
small windows. It has wide porches, provided with easy chairs for the
tourists. While it has a wild, rustic appearance it is homelike.
A little brown bear chained to a tree on the grass plot in front
furnished much amusement for the company by turning somersaults. Three
or four bears had been killed a few days before, somewhere in the
neighborhood of the lodge, and bear meat was served at luncheon.
However, none of the three members of our party ate animal flesh.
We asked that eggs might be substituted, but our request was not
granted, and we had to be content with what we could get. We did not
find the courtesy and interest manifested in our welfare here, on the
part of the managers, that we expected; and we felt that if we had to
meet the same difficulties farther on, it would be a matter of regret
to us that we did not hire a conveyance and make an independent tour.
Fortunately, we found a decided difference in the management at the
camps.
Two young women, who had been residing in the park camps for the
summer, had arranged with the driver of our car to sit on the front
seat with him on the trip from Cody to Yellowstone Camp. However, they
were not on hand in the morning when we were ready to start, and a
person who had later secured the front seat kindly let me have it. I
was grateful for the protection the wind-shield gave me, and of being
able to keep my feet warm near the engine. When the young women
found that they had been left, they hired an automobile and overtook
us. They paid a woman chauffeur, clad in men's clothing, ten dollars
for this trip; and just as we were halting at the dam they drove up,
to the delight of the young man who was driving our car.
[Illustration: THE HOLY CITY © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
Nothing was said to me about giving them the front seat, but they made
some remarks in the presence of others that showed plainly what was on
their minds. I kept my place until we reached Pahaska Lodge. In the
meantime "Heine," the driver, as he was called, seemed more or less
excited, and occasionally called to them in the rear seat. He was
running at such speed it was difficult for some of the passengers to
keep their places, especially where there were sharp curves in the
road. He was, no doubt, a skilful driver. He seemed to know that he
was exceeding the speed limit, and shouted out to one of the young
women, "Ruth, are you all there?" A few minutes after this he ran
against the post of a bridge and came near having a wreck, but no one
said anything to him, nor made a protest against his carelessness and
levity when he should have been attending to business.
"Heine" spent the time at Pahaska Lodge in the company of the two
girls; and when the time came to go, he did not wait, as others did,
to load up in front of the building, but took them out to the rear
where the car was standing and put them in the front seat. There was a
protest on the part of all the other passengers, who insisted that he
should give me the seat I had occupied in the morning, but he was
unyielding; and after a half hour's delay and controversy they saw the
utter futility of trying to convince him of his act of injustice, and
proceeded on the journey. However, it served the purpose of quieting
him down and causing him to be more careful in the dangerous places of
the road.
[Illustration: PAHASKA TEPEE LODGE © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The woman in charge at the Pahaska Lodge, who had failed to serve us
with eggs, after one of the waitresses had promised them to me, was
chafing under an impeachment of her lack of good will and hospitality
toward some of her patrons; and came boldly out to the car, and in the
presence of every one took sides with the driver, assuring him that
she would stand for the delay. This greatly strengthened him in the
stand he had taken.
It was not very pleasant to ride behind a driver with so much
responsibility, who was carrying on a flirtation. I once saw a
brakeman flirting with a young woman when he should have been
attending to business. Suddenly, he lost his footing, fell between the
cars and was crushed to death. Human nature has been so weakened
through the fall that there is not much dependence to be put in one
where a play by the opposite sex is being made on the heartstrings.
Samson was shorn of his strength by the fair-faced Delilah, and made
to grind without eyes in the mills of the Philistines, after he had
rent a lion, carried off the gates of Gaza, and defied all the enemies
of Israel.
There is too much good-natured toleration of such things, where human
lives are involved. Most people choose the path of least resistance,
when it does not seriously interfere with their rights or comfort, but
not so with our fellow passengers, four of whom were devout members of
the Friends' Church. There was a principle involved, and they did not
hesitate to show on which side they were. We enjoyed the company of
these "Friends" very much. The two gentlemen and their wives were our
companions on the trip from the morning we left Cody till the day we
parted at the Old Faithful Camp at the Upper Geyser Basin.
[Illustration: CHITTENDEN BRIDGE © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
CHAPTER II
GRAND CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE
After crossing the Yellowstone boundary, about two miles west of
Pahaska Tepee Lodge, I began to feel an atmosphere of freedom that I
had not hitherto enjoyed on the trip. I felt that the Yellowstone
National Park, with all of its wonders and many interests, belonged to
me as much as to any other person on the earth; and from that moment
it seemed that I was walking with God to the very gates of heaven and
to the brink of hell. The freedom of animal life in the Park, brought
to my mind vivid pictures of the Millennium, when, as Isaiah says,
nothing shall hurt or destroy in all God's holy mountain. It should be
a matter of great interest and satisfaction to Americans that our
government has the custody of the Yellowstone--that man with selfish
interests is prohibited from laying claim to anything within its
boundaries, and is compelled to refrain from marring or defacing the
formations around the geysers and other places, and from destroying
animal life.
It is to be deplored that so few know how rich they are in the gifts
that God and nature have bestowed upon us as a people, in this vast
region of more than 3,000 square miles of so many miracles and
wonders.
About eight miles from the border, we came to Sylvan Pass; then
followed Snow Fall, Lake Eleanor, Sylvan Lodge, Sylvan Lake, and
Wedded Trees, at the left. About eleven miles from Sylvan Pass, we
came to Turbid Lake, Osprey Nest in a tree at the right, Fishing
Bridge, Yellowstone River, and turned to the right to Grand Canyon.
Our first stop after leaving Pahaska Lodge was at MUD VOLCANO and
GREEN GABLE SPRING, at the left. This was the first place where we had
found any disturbance on the surface caused by the heated regions
below. The angry crater of the volcano resembled, in some respects,
the Mammoth Paint Pots in the Lower Geyser Basin, but unlike the
latter, there was nothing beautiful about it,--it was simply a great
mass of boiling mud, manifesting such intense heat as to spout up
several feet, threatening to bespatter those who came too near. It
was enclosed by a railing, around which was a board walk. Below the
mud geyser was a boiling spring where the water, clear as crystal,
poured out of the ground and was carried away.
[Illustration: SYLVAN LAKE © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
I ventured to put my finger into the water and was nearly burned. This
place was only a suggestion of what we were to see later in the Geyser
Basins.
At our left, eight miles from Sylvan Pass, we had a splendid view of
YELLOWSTONE LAKE in the distance. In the heart of the Park Plateau,
averaging more than eight thousand feet elevation, surrounded by
mountains, waterfalls, and cascades, is the lake, twenty miles in
length, which, at its elevation, has but one rival, Lake Titicaca, in
the Andes. As our party did not visit West Thumb, it was our privilege
to see the lake only at a distance, where we could have but a slight
idea of its beauty and immensity.
"David E. Folsom, of the Folsom and Cook Exploring Party, in 1869
says:
'As we were about departing on our homeward trip, we
ascended the summit of a neighboring hill and took a final
look at Yellowstone Lake. Nestled among the forest-crowned
hills which bounded our vision, lay this inland sea, its
crystal waves dancing and sparkling in the sunlight as if
laughing with joy for their wild freedom. It is a scene of
transcendent beauty, which has been viewed by but few white
men, and we felt glad to have looked upon it before its
primeval solitude should be broken by the crowds of
pleasure-seekers, which at no distant day will throng its
shores.'"
[Illustration: YELLOWSTONE LAKE © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
For the next few miles the scenery was most fascinating, but it was
only a prelude to what awaited us in the first glimpse we were to get
of the GRAND CANYON.
We halted at INSPIRATION POINT, where I followed others down the steps
to a great ledge of rocks overhanging the chasm. The scene that
greeted my vision was so overwhelming and unexpected that I became
dizzy and had to make my way back to the car, supported by the
railing.
This yawning gulf with its awful depths of nearly two thousand feet,
through which the river, like a silver thread was wending its way, and
the sublime coloring produced by nature, reflected from the mineral
formations on the sides of the great canyon, was a sight too much for
human frailty, and I had to be satisfied to take a glimpse and wait
until I could recuperate from the shock before attempting another
adventure.
Before leaving Inspiration Point, some one shouted, "See the eagle's
nest!" and there, looking down into a tall pine tree at the right of
the descent, was the nest; but I was more interested in the canyon,
for I had never had the faintest conception of what it really is.
When I had recuperated somewhat from the bewilderment, I was inclined
to charge those who had visited the Park before, among whom were my
brother and his wife, with stupidity and a lack of appreciation for
not having done more to tell of such grandeur. But afterwards I had to
admit that the half cannot be told however much anyone might try.
Unlike the Royal Gorge in Colorado, we were not at the bottom looking
up, but at the top looking down into the silent and awful depths. It
was as if the earth had rent asunder and we were standing on the brink
looking over into the abyss.
"Of all the marvels of the Yellowstone National Park, the
most sublime is the Grand Canyon. Through this the
Yellowstone River, which is a tributary of the Missouri,
flows in one place for twenty continuous miles between
perpendicular cliffs only about 200 yards apart and from
1,200 to 1,500 feet in height. At the entrance of this part
of the canyon the whole river makes a stupendous leap of
308 feet, in what is known as the 'Lower Fall.' The sides of
this gigantic chasm have literally almost all the colors of
the rainbow displayed upon their vertical surfaces. Red,
orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, and white tints, are
constantly succeeding one another here in wonderful variety,
thus lighting up with glory countless architectural forms,
which Nature, it would seem, had fashioned here to make the
proudest works of man appear diminutive and tame. These
colors doubtless have been formed by the percolating through
the cliffs of the hot mineral waters from the neighboring
springs. Distinguished painters have sadly declared that any
adequate representation of these brilliant, variegated hues
is utterly beyond the power of human art. What an unrivalled
combination is there, therefore, in this canyon, of
awe-inspiring grandeur and enchanting beauty! And what a
magnificent pathway has been given to the Yellowstone River!
Leaving the famous Yellowstone Lake enclosed by snow-clad
mountains, it passes through a series of rapids and a fall
of 140 feet before it even reaches the Grand Canyon, and
just beyond this it receives a tributary, which in its haste
to join it, makes a leap of 156 feet. Thus cradled in
sublimity, the Yellowstone River must be called in some
respects the most extraordinary stream upon our continent."
[Illustration: EAGLE'S NEST ROCK © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
Why was this place kept concealed from the eyes of civilized man for
nearly four hundred years after America was discovered? Even now only
a small per cent of the 100,000,000 people of the United States know
what they possess in this romantic and mysterious region, which in
some places seems to be the ante-chamber of heaven and the very mouth
of hell. Many, for lack of opportunity or interest, will never see the
Yellowstone National Park, while multitudes from foreign shores will
swarm like bees within its boundaries and reap the benefits of the
sacrifice and toil of its discoverers and of God's free gift to
America.
[Illustration: NO. 147. UP THE GRAND CANYON FROM INSPIRATION
PT.--YELLOWSTONE PARK. HAYNES-PHOTO.]
When the Queen of Sheba came from the uttermost parts of the earth to
hear the wisdom of Solomon, and he answered all her questions, showing
her the riches and glory of his kingdom, she said, "It was a true
report that I heard in mine own land of thy acts and of thy wisdom.
Howbeit I believed not the words, until I came, and mine eyes had seen
it: and, BEHOLD, THE HALF WAS NOT TOLD ME." This truly could be said
of the Grand Canyon. I have been many times through the Rocky Mountain
regions, passed through the Royal Gorge, have seen most of the places
of interest that the mountain passes, fastnesses, and peaks afford,
but nothing had ever so charmed, awed, inspired, and bewildered me
as did the first glimpse of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.
Solomon's kingdom symbolizes the second work of grace, taught in the
Scriptures, an experience which no one can understand unless he is in
possession of it. Experience is necessary to enjoy it in its fulness,
and so with nature's grandeur and magnificence on such a tremendous
scale as in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. One must see with the
eyes what the mind fails to grasp by the hearing of the ear. Language,
with its adaptability to the usages of mortal man, is inadequate.
Word-pictures, though drawn by the most visionary and gifted, fail to
convey in a slight degree the grandeur of nature's activities and
exhibitions in this the most inspiring and picturesque spot on the
globe.
After I was again seated in the car, for a few moments my eyes were
closed to all the world about me, and in a new sense I began to
realize the infinite depths of divine power and wisdom, and how small
is the creature when compared with the Creator.
At ARTIST'S VIEW we stopped again for another look at the canyon. In
the opinion of some persons, a better view was to be had here than at
Inspiration Point, but I did not think so, and did not tarry long.
Feeling that enough had been crowded into one day, I went back to the
stage anxious to get where I could relax and rest.
A few minutes later we arrived at YELLOWSTONE CAMP, near the Upper and
Lower Falls. After we had registered and were shown the way to our
tents, the evening meal was served in a large, spacious dining-room.
In the office of the camp we found a log fire burning. A score or more
of tourists seated around it were engaged in conversation; and the new
arrivals received a cordial welcome. Everything presented so homelike
an appearance, it made me feel as if I should like to spend a week
here.
The greatest courtesy was manifested on the part of the managers and
those who rendered us service, and I felt that they had a real heart
interest in our welfare. The accommodations in the tents were all that
one could ask. The tents had floors, were boarded up the sides, and
furnished with all the conveniences necessary. In each one there was a
stove that was lighted both morning and evening, as it was late in
the season and sometimes the temperature was almost at freezing point.
When a fire was needed, one of the attendants at the camp came to
light it.
[Illustration: WILLOW PARK CAMP, YELLOWSTONE PARK © _Haynes, St.
Paul_]
CHAPTER III
UPPER AND LOWER FALLS
After dinner was served on the evening of our arrival, my brother and
his wife took a trip down UNCLE TOM'S TRAIL to the base of the Lower
Yellowstone Fall. They returned later, excited not a little, to tell
of their adventure and what they had seen. I regretted that they did
not wait until morning so that I could go with them, but I was so
elated with the description of the fall that I was determined to go
down the trail, if I had to go alone. The next morning when I saw how
hazardous the undertaking would be, there was nothing that could have
induced me to descend the rocky steep over which they had traveled.
Sister Lillian and I got a good view of the fall from a prominence
near the edge of the canyon, and this satisfied me.
Just before the water makes its tremendous leap, it is compressed
within a width of about 100 feet, where it seems to slow down to
prepare for the shock before it dashes 308 feet over the rocks. Here
from the foaming mass of spray, gorgeous rainbows may be seen. The eye
is then inclined to follow the little stream that dwindles away
between the rocky sides of the great chasm, foaming and dashing as it
goes, until it looks like a silver thread in the distance. The rainbow
colors at the fall, blending with the various tints and hues reflected
from the mineral formations on the sides of the canyon, presented a
picture that no artist could paint.
My sister and I took the trail along the edge of the canyon and
finally made intersection with the automobile road within a short
distance of the camp. On the way back, I felt as if I had lighted down
on another sphere where I could stay for only a brief period, and that
I must profit by every moment of time that was allotted me. Pausing by
the roadside, I asked the question, "What shall it be when these
mortal bodies put on immortality, when they shall no longer be subject
to the laws of gravitation or others governing material substances?
What shall it be to wing one's flight to unseen worlds where there is
still a greater comprehension to be had of Him who created the world
and threw it from the tips of His fingers into space!"
It took thousands of years for astronomers to learn that the earth is
hung upon nothing; that when God created it He made it out of nothing,
and set the forces in action that were continually demonstrating His
omnipotence before their eyes.
The plan of salvation, of which it is my privilege to be a partaker,
was never more precious to me than at this time, and I had a new
appreciation of the fact that an infinite price had been paid for
man's redemption. I felt renewed inspiration to press the battle
against sin and unrighteousness to the gates of heaven or to the
depths of hell.
The Calvary route is often rugged. There are many dangerous places,
where if the Infinite One did not clasp our hands and hold them
tightly, we would plunge to the depths of the chasm and be wrecked and
ruined for time and eternity. We have the blessed consolation,
however, that He has promised to guide us with His eye, and never to
leave or forsake those who put their trust in Him.
There is an atmosphere of sincerity among the people around the hotels
and camps of the Yellowstone that is rarely found in summer resorts
in other places. Here the voice of God in nature is heard in the
smallest whisper, and again in tones of thunder; those who are
inclined to be giddy and possessed with a spirit of levity, suddenly
find themselves sobering up and beginning to think upon those things
that involve the interests of their immortal souls.
Many of the helpers about the camps and hotels of the Park, I was
told, were students and teachers who had come to the Yellowstone
unprepared financially to make the tour, and had accepted positions as
waiters, waitresses, etc., in order to pay their way through, and to
be able to return by the time their schools opened. Some of them
received only slight compensation, and depended on the good will of
the tourists to reimburse them for services.
The familiarity that was seen everywhere between man and beast
betokens the fact that an earnest of Isaiah's prophecy of the
Millennium is being fulfilled. These native animals are free to go
wherever they please, and seem to have little or no fear. In many
instances they come close enough to eat out of the hands of the
tourists. At the park camps and around the kitchens of the hotels,
black, brown, and occasionally grizzly bears could be seen at almost
any hour of the day eating out of tins or otherwise in search of food.
At our camp, near the kitchen, I found a brown bear with two little
cubs. She looked at me with an independent toss of her head as much as
to say, "You may be surprised to see me here, but I am enjoying the
rights and privileges accorded me under the laws governing the Park; I
am taking no undue liberties nor committing any offense." She then
took an affectionate look at her cubs and warned me to keep my
distance. I assured her that I had no thought of disturbing them, and
so there was an understanding between us. I afterward made frequent
visits to the brow of the hill where I could get a good view of her
and her little ones.
Tourists often make a mistake in trying to feed and pet the bears.
Signs are up everywhere warning them of this danger. A short time
before our party arrived, some person tried to pet a bear and was
bitten in the wrist. It taught him and others a lesson. These animals
have not been tamed, and the reason they are not so vicious as in
primeval days is because no one is allowed to wound or kill them.
When one becomes unmanageable and it is necessary to dispose of it,
the government rangers who have charge of the Park remove all traces
of blood, and even burn the hide, so as to keep from arousing
suspicion on the part of others. Thus we see, in part, what the
Millennium will be when nothing shall hurt or destroy, and when
"righteousness shall be the girdle of his lions, and faithfulness the
girdle of his reins."
[Illustration: BEAR FEEDING "A LA CARTE" © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
"The wolf also shall dwell with the lamb, and the leopard shall lie
down with the kid; and the calf and the young lion and the fatling
together; and a little child shall lead them. And the cow and the bear
shall feed; their young ones shall lie down together: and the lion
shall eat straw like the ox. And the sucking child shall play on the
hole of the asp, and the weaned child shall put his hand on the
cockatrice' den. THEY SHALL NOT HURT NOR DESTROY IN ALL MY HOLY
MOUNTAIN: for the earth shall be full of the knowledge of the Lord, as
the waters cover the sea" (Isa. II:5:9).
We could have spent another day at the Grand Canyon, as we had
arranged for a five-day tour, but decided to spend more time at Old
Faithful Camp near the Upper Geyser Basin, and therefore planned to
leave in the afternoon. In the meantime I packed up my things, made
some notes in my diary, and went alone to the Upper Yellowstone Fall.
Here, with no one present but the unseen host, I spent one of the most
profitable hours of my life. I was in a position to get a good view of
the Fall, where the water was dashing more than a hundred feet over
the rocks, preparatory to the final plunge of three hundred feet a
half mile below.
For a short time, surrounded by nature, with all of its primitive
beauty and grandeur, I seemed to forget my burdens, and had a
foretaste of what it will be when the cross is laid down and the crown
is won. But to be an overcomer, I knew there must be no shrinking from
duty until the last battle is fought.
Time forbade my tarrying longer at this place, and I hurried to the
camp where I found my brother and sister looking for me. In a few
minutes we had bidden many of our newly-made friends good-by and were
hurried off in the yellow touring car _via_ Tower Fall to Mammoth Hot
Springs, a distance of about forty miles.
[Illustration: UPPER YELLOWSTONE FALL © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
In the car was a new driver, and among the passengers were the four
"Friends" who had started with us from Cody, Wyoming. We were glad to
have them, and also to have a change of drivers, so that we might
forget the unpleasant experience of the day before at Pahaska Tepee
Lodge.
Every person in the car seemed to be in good spirits, and ready to
enjoy the trip to the fullest extent. From the time we left the camp
until we reached Mt. Washburn, a distance of about ten miles, my time
was mostly taken up answering the questions of a woman from California
who wanted information about our organization, the Pillar of Fire. I
was glad to answer her questions and to give her all the enlightenment
I could, but I found that it was taxing my physical strength when I
should be at my best to profit by the trip. I silently prayed that a
change of some kind might be made. We did not take the automobile road
to the summit of Mt. Washburn, an altitude of 10,388 feet, but turned
to the left through DUNRAVEN PASS, along the side of the mountain, a
much shorter road than over the summit.
I had no desire to go to the summit. I had so often been over the
highest peaks of the Rockies on all the scenic railroad lines, that I
did not care to tax my nerves on such a trip; other passengers felt
much the same.
The drive around the side of the mountain was hazardous enough for me;
and while others expressed no fear, there were times when I felt I
should be compelled to get out of the car and walk. A good-natured
pilot seated by the driver, who, no doubt, was sent out by the Park
company, was skilful enough to divert my attention from the distance
to the base of the mountain at our left until we had passed over the
dangerous part of the road. I shall not forget the manner in which he
undertook to make me forget that I was nervous.
TOWER FALL was our first stop. The dizzy heights had almost unfitted
me for what awaited us at this place, but my brother and the pilot
assisted me up the steps and I followed others down the trail to the
fall, dashing 132 feet over the rocks. The snowy, foaming water has
the appearance of white satin ribbon, falling perpendicularly between
two towering rocks, whence it gets its name. It lacks the volume of
some other falls in the Yellowstone, but its grace and beauty are
nowhere surpassed.
About four miles from the fall, we turned aside to CAMP ROOSEVELT,
where we found a great display of elk horns. I was constantly on the
lookout for elk, deer, and other animals, as I was told that they were
often seen in herds in that locality, but I saw nothing except a
lonely coyote, trotting along utterly indifferent to our presence. It
seems that the continual blowing of automobile horns has frightened
the more timid creatures back from the highways, and only occasionally
do they venture close enough to be seen.
CHAPTER IV
MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS
The distance from Grand Canyon Camp to Mammoth Hot Springs, near Fort
Yellowstone, was made in about three and one-half hours, with only the
one stop at Tower Fall, and the few minutes that we halted at Camp
Roosevelt, and the Cold Spring. But there was not one moment of
monotony. The harmonious blending of colors, the distant mountain
peaks and ranges, the soft-tinted sky, the trees, the water, in fact,
all of Nature's best, in a milder form than we had seen about the
Grand Canyon at the Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls, was constantly
presented in shifting scenes before our vision, relieving, in a
measure, the tension we had been under since arriving in the vicinity
of the Grand Canyon.
One place, in particular, that attracted my attention, was a beaver
dam and hut that had been constructed by an order of masons whose
operations are conducted exclusively upon the principles of home
protection, and whose chief aim is to protect the fur trade of which
they are the producers. In order to do this and to keep from being
stranded, it is often necessary for the beavers to dam up the waters
and build a house in which to live.
When they cut down trees, they have the faculty of felling them where
they want to build, so as to save as much labor as possible. At our
left was a creek and a dam they had built and a house they had
constructed, independent of the laws controlling the builders'
association or that of the labor unions.
Their tools are very simple, as they use their teeth for saws, their
tails for trowels, etc. In the midst of the dam was the hut, built of
unplaned logs, with a well-constructed roof.
Under less favorable circumstances than is found for animal life in
the Park, these little workers with their soft, silken fur would have
been hunted down and captured before they could have brought the work
to completion. Again, I could not help but exclaim, What a blessing
are the laws governing the Yellowstone Park!
[Illustration: BEAVER DAM © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The rangers, with stations interspersed throughout the vast area of
more than 3,000 square miles, are employed by the government for the
protection of life and property, and arrests are quickly made and
penalties fixed when there is any violation of the law. These men are
not soldiers, but patrolmen on horseback, dressed in cowboy's uniform.
An ordinary soldier would be unfitted for such work. Men in leather
shaps are needed who can break and ride bronchos, throw the lariat,
and round up the herds; those who are used to the mountain fastnesses
and the buffalo path, the haunts of black, brown, and grizzly bears,
and are acquainted with the habits of the elk, moose, mountain sheep,
the antelope, the deer, etc.; those who know the habits and lurking
places of the unscrupulous hunters and poachers who defy the laws and
by any or all means seek to evade punishment. No one is better fitted
than the western ranger to track them down and see that they are
brought to justice.
When we arrived at the MAMMOTH SPRINGS, we found a welcome at the camp
and soon felt very much at home. It was cool enough for a fire, and
many of the tourists gathered around the stove in the office and
chatted with one another until the evening meal, which proved to be a
plentiful repast and well served.
Our tents were furnished after the same pattern as those of the Grand
Canyon Camp, with the exception that these were lighted with
electricity.
The MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS and the beautiful terraces, in attempting
description of which all language has been exhausted, were only a
short distance from the camp; without waiting for a guide, we were
soon winding our way up the side of the hill and around the road where
we could find an entrance to the plateau. I had seen pictures of the
many springs and terraces in colors, and had supposed they were
overdrawn, but I found myself in the same bewildered state as when I
first saw the Grand Canyon. Before I was aware, my tears were flowing
freely at the thought of how impossible it would be to describe these
springs to my friends and others who, perhaps, would never have the
opportunity of seeing them. The blending of colors cannot be
reproduced by the brush of the most gifted artist. I was thankful that
God had permitted me to see the work of His hands that I might help
others in the battle for eternal life.
Some of our party were looking for the DEVIL'S KITCHEN, but in the
absence of a guide were having difficulty in finding it; I had no
inclination to participate in the search. I had been in the
ante-chamber of heaven and at the gates of perdition, and this was
sufficient for one day, so I started back toward the camp, with a lady
who seemed to be satisfied to stay by my side, even though she missed
seeing many of the places of interest.
I knew she was tired, and hoped that she might ride the remainder of
the way. Soon an automobile came along and took her in. By this time
my brother and sister and other members of the party had given up the
search for the Devil's Kitchen and overtaken us. Later I was told that
it is in the crater of an extinct boiling spring, not far from some of
the terraces.
After reaching the camp, I was about to retire, when I decided to go
to the office and see what was going on. A number of persons were
preparing a program for an entertainment, and asked me to make an
address, but I felt that enough had been crowded into one day, and
declined.
Before morning, the weather became very chilly, and I had to use both
the heavy comforters that had been provided for my bed. My circulation
was not good, and my rest was more or less disturbed. I feared a
greater change might come in the weather, and decided to get over the
ground as quickly as possible even though we should have to miss many
of the details of the place.
We had breakfast with Mr. Hayes, president of the Yellowstone Camp
Company, who officially, or otherwise, has been connected with
operations in the Yellowstone for the past twenty-five years. Mr.
Hayes was able to give us some valuable information, which we greatly
appreciated.
MAMMOTH CAMP is situated at the foot of Jupiter Terrace. A short
distance away is Fort Yellowstone, where the administration
headquarters of the Park is located.
I should have enjoyed seeing more of the springs, with their gorgeous
hues and combinations, but with the hope that we should have the
opportunity of visiting the Park again in the near future, our party
took the morning stage to Old Faithful Camp, at the Upper Geyser
Basin.
[Illustration: FORT YELLOWSTONE © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
Before leaving, I got a glimpse of the buffalo herd on the horizon in
the distance, and was surprised to hear how rapidly these animals are
becoming extinct in the Park, where they are so well protected. It
seems that the buffalo and the Indian go together, and thrive only
where civilization has not yet come.
The weather was cold, and having to travel in an open car made it very
uncomfortable until the sun had time to rise above the tall trees and
the mountain peaks. A brisk wind was blowing, and most of the time I
had to keep my face heavily veiled. This hindered me from getting the
full benefit of the scenery on the way to the Norris Geyser Basin.
Here, however, there was so much steam and boiling water I had no
difficulty in getting warm.
We had a skilful driver, who called out the names of the places in a
clear voice. This kept the passengers from being under a strain of
uncertainty and tense listening.
OBSIDIAN CLIFF, formed as the result of volcanic action in ages past,
is twelve miles south of Mammoth Hot Springs. It rises two hundred
fifty feet above the road and is composed of jet-black, volcanic
glass, usually opaque, streaked with red, yellow, and green. When the
roadway was constructed, great fires were built around blocks of this
glass, which, when heated, were cooled by dashing water upon them
resulting in their being shattered into fragments. This is said to be
the only stretch of glass road in existence.
The cliff was "neutral ground" to the different tribes of Indians.
Chips of obsidian and partly finished obsidian arrow-heads are found
throughout the Park, usually at places where the Indians had their
camps. When the cliff is illuminated by the rays of the sun, it has
the appearance of a glistening mirror, and is of much interest to the
tourists.
Four and one-half miles from Norris is ROARING MOUNTAIN with steam
escaping through countless apertures from its rugged side. The sound
of the steam struggling to escape is not so audible now as in the
past, but the whole picture reminds one of the inferno about ready to
blow off its cap.
[Illustration: OBSIDIAN CLIFF © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
In close proximity to the mountain are greenish, milky pools fed by
rivers of sulphur water from the springs. It was not our privilege to
tarry here, from the fact that the weather was uncomfortably cold, but
the mountain stands out before me as one of the most interesting
places to be seen on the tour.
The wind was blowing fiercely when we came to TWIN LAKES, four miles
from Norris Geyser Basin, but I removed my heavy veil in order to get
a better glimpse of them. They are beautiful, and although in such
close proximity, their hues are entirely different.
How often two objects are found so closely allied to each other as to
be inseparable, each one depending upon the other for its existence!
This cannot be a freak of nature or the result of chance. The only
sensible conclusion is that it was so designed by the Creator to teach
a most important spiritual lesson,--that of the two works of grace,
which constitute the panoply of the soul. There is no way to discard
either without serious results.
There is something about clear, pure water, whether it is seen in the
placid lake or the gushing, mountain torrent, that inspires and lifts
a person above the toils and cares of this life, where he is able to
breathe a pure and holy atmosphere. Hence we see why, as shown in the
Scriptures, Jesus so often used water to illustrate the plan of
salvation. Water is the symbol of life, and in the boiling springs,
the pools, the lakes, the chasms, and the great, spouting geysers, a
book is written in the Yellowstone that every one should learn to
read.
Our attention was next called to the FRYING PAN, a basin fifteen feet
across, with numerous boiling jets in constant and violent agitation.
I regretted that circumstances were not more favorable so that I could
have a longer period of time to spend at these places, where Nature is
so full of life and interest.
[Illustrated: ROARING MOUNTAIN © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
CHAPTER V
NORRIS GEYSER BASIN
When we arrived at NORRIS (formerly Gibbon) GEYSER BASIN, I was so
cold I could scarcely use my limbs. The first attraction was a great,
boiling spring at the left as we entered the basin. I immediately felt
the change in the atmosphere, and soon got warm after reaching the
board walk under which the boiling water was flowing, the hot steam
everywhere being forced out through apertures.
Here was my first sight of the clear water geysers. The CONSTANT, with
a maximum height of twenty feet, plays at intervals of from thirty to
sixty seconds. The MINUTE MAN plays at intervals of from one to three
minutes with a duration of about the same length of time. In this
basin are also the ECHINUS, the FEARLESS, the MONARCH, with a maximum
height of fifty feet, playing at intervals of twenty-five to sixty
minutes, the NEW CRATER, the WHIRLIGIG, and the VALENTINE. The
maximum height of the Valentine is a hundred feet and the time of
eruptions varies from twenty-two to thirty hours.
The BLACK GROWLER STEAM VENT growled continually, sending forth great
volumes of steam. The deposit around the crater is black in some
places. The vent north of the Black Growler is called the HURRICANE.
It looks much like the former, but is not so active. The BATH TUB does
not erupt, but is in constant agitation. EMERALD POOL is a large lake
of boiling water, green in appearance.
NEW CRATER GEYSER is surrounded by large blocks of yellow rock. In the
vicinity of this geyser, in 1891, a commotion occurred, very much like
an earthquake, when great volumes of water were forced out. Since then
there have been only ordinary eruptions, about every three minutes.
The form of the crater is such that the water is prevented from
attaining any great height.
MONARCH GEYSER, near the base of the hill, is almost surrounded by
beautifully colored rocks. The crater has two openings, the larger of
which is twenty feet long and three feet wide. Eruptions occur without
warning, and water is thrown a hundred feet high. The intervals
between eruptions are about six hours.
[Illustration: NORRIS GEYSER BASIN © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The FEARLESS GEYSER throws water in every direction, apparently
defying those who wish to approach it. NORRIS is a new geyser, and is
probably changing more rapidly than any other in the basin. One never
knows what changes a season may bring forth.
The MINUTE MAN is always interesting, especially on account of its
regularity. Its crater seems originally to have been merely a fissure
in a rock.
A few miles from Norris Basin is ELK PARK, a valley surrounded by
timbered hills. Across the river from the road is CHOCOLATE SPRING,
which has built a cone of chocolate color.
MONUMENT GEYSER BASIN is on the summit of MT. SCHURZ. There is not
much to justify the tourist in making the ascent, as there are only a
dozen or two of crumbling geyser cones, some of which steam and
rumble, while others are apparently extinct.
On the east side of the river we entered GIBBON CANYON, and for
several miles were shadowed by towering cliffs, in some places a
thousand feet high.
BERYL SPRING is the largest boiling spring in the canyon. It is
fifteen feet across, and about a mile from the entrance. While our
touring car was dashing around the mountainside, suddenly we came to
GIBBON FALL. Here, from a height of over eighty feet, bubbling and
foaming torrents of water tumble down the steep cascades.
At NATIONAL PARK MOUNTAIN, our driver announced that we were at the
confluence of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers. It was here that the
famous Washburn exploring party, in 1870, decided that the Yellowstone
region should be set aside as a National Park, and from that time put
forth their efforts to this end. Among the most enthusiastic were
Cornelius Hedges, David E. Folsom, Lieut. Doane, and Nathaniel P.
Langford. How providential it was that these unselfish,
public-spirited men should have taken up the subject at that time!
I did not know that the junction of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers was
an historical place, but was so fascinated with the scenery, I felt
that I should like to camp there for a week, and have an opportunity
to make notes preparatory to publishing an account of my trip. To me,
there was unusual attraction, and something very romantic, about the
Firehole River. I had heard how it was fed by the geysers and boiling
springs, and this added enchantment to its many charms. At one place I
saw a great boulder in the river, from the sides of which were growing
two spruce or pine trees.
[Illustration: NATIONAL PARK MOUNTAIN © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
At the LOWER and MIDWAY BASINS are the GREAT FOUNTAIN and EXCELSIOR
GEYSERS. The Excelsior, better known as "Hell's Half Acre," ceased to
play in 1888. Previous to this it was known to throw water to a height
of 300 feet, the time of the eruptions varying from one to four hours.
GREAT FOUNTAIN expels the water to a height of 100 feet, playing for
thirty minutes, and its eruptions are from eight to twelve hours
apart. At the present time Excelsior Geyser is a boiling lake, where
the steam often prevents one from getting a good view of it.
The MAMMOTH PAINT POTS held my undivided interest for the limited time
that I had. This is a boiling mass of mud, white at the center, and
gradually developing into a beautiful pink, or flesh color toward the
outer edges. The caldron of waxen mixture has a basin forty by sixty
feet in size, with a rim about five feet high. The mud in the center
bubbles up continually, "plop, plop," under the pressure of heat,
and cools off toward the outer edges.
[Illustration: "HELL'S HALF ACRE" © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
David E. Folsom witnessed a display of the Great Fountain Geyser in
1869:
"The hole through which the water was discharged was ten
feet in diameter, and was situated in the center of a large
circular shallow basin into which the water fell. There was
a stiff breeze blowing at the time, and by going to the
windward side and carefully picking our way over convenient
stones we were enabled to reach the edge of the hole. At
that moment the escaping steam was causing the water to boil
up in a fountain five or six feet high. It stopped in an
instant, and commenced settling down--twenty, thirty, forty
feet--until we concluded that the bottom had fallen out, but
the next instant, without any warning, it came rushing up
and shot into the air at least eighty feet, causing us to
stampede. It continued to spout at intervals of a few
moments for some time, but finally subsided."
PRISMATIC LAKE fairly dazzled me with its beauty. In the center it is
a deep blue, blending into green toward the edges. In the shallow
portion it is yellow, blending into orange at the edges. The water
sparkles and flows off in every direction over the slightly raised rim
of the lake. Its beauty and delicacy of coloring are impossible to
describe. It is heated to nearly 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
BISCUIT BASIN and SAPPHIRE POOL are places of much interest, also
JEWEL GEYSER, ARTEMISIA GEYSER, etc.
MORNING GLORY SPRING, near Riverside Bridge, presented to me an idea
of what the earth will be when the curse is lifted and it is clothed
in Edenic glory. It is twenty-three feet in diameter, with a
temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and with an apparent depth of
about thirty feet.
I had not previously made a study of the Park, and never knew what was
coming next, but before I reached Old Faithful Camp at the Upper
Geyser Basin, I felt that I had seen enough to repay me a
thousand-fold for any expense or effort that was being made in the
tour of the Yellowstone, which to me was truly a world of wonders.
[Illustration: MAMMOTH PAINT POTS © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
CHAPTER VI
UPPER GEYSER BASIN
It was about noon when we reached the UPPER GEYSER BASIN, and I felt
that it would be profitable to take a little rest before going any
further into the mysteries of this "wonderland." OLD FAITHFUL was due
to play shortly after we reached the camp, but I was too far away when
it was announced she was in action to get the full benefit of the
display, and went back to the camp to wait another seventy minutes.
The long drive in the forenoon, and the exposure to the cold, caused
me to feel weary and dull, nevertheless I made an effort to be on hand
at every eruption, which to me became more and more fascinating.
OLD FAITHFUL INN accommodates 400 guests. It is constructed of
boulders and logs, with peaks, angles, dormers, French windows, etc.
This most restful and impressive abode of the tourists is only two or
three minutes' walk from Old Faithful Geyser, and so located as to
give from its balconies a splendid view of the display.
[Illustration: OFFICE OLD FAITHFUL INN © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The office-room is 75 feet square and 92 feet high, and reaches to the
roof, with a massive chimney that rises to the top. The building is
surrounded with beautiful grounds, furnished with rustic seats. The
chimney is fourteen feet square with eight fireplaces, and balconies
are built around three sides. While everything is of the rustic order,
there is nothing commonplace about the hotel or its furnishings. "It
is a creation of art from the foundation to the peak of the roof."
OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER in the forefront of Old Faithful Inn is like a
sentinel, and so named because of the regularity of its eruptions. Its
crater, from which the water is expelled to a height of 150 feet, is
an oblong opening, two by six feet, at the top of a mound of
geyserite. Its eruptions sometimes vary a few minutes, in the meantime
giving warning with two or three short spurts, increasing in volume
until the maximum height is reached. The display is short, most of the
water falling back into the crater, but no more fascinating or
impressive scene could be found. The formations around are brilliant
in color, resembling the more subdued tints and hues seen at the
Mammoth Hot Springs.
In the early part of the afternoon, a number of tourists, including my
brother and sister, went with a guide to GEYSER HILL. After their
return, they had much to say about what they had seen and heard. Later
in the day I felt rested and wanted to make the trip, and my brother
and sister went with me. They had learned all they could from the
guide and were ready to name the various geysers, springs, and pools,
and describe their operations to me. Of these, the Giantess, Beehive,
and Sponge Geysers, were the most interesting. The GIANTESS occupies
the most prominent position on the hill. Its displays attain a height
of about 100 feet, and are accompanied by shocks and tremors much like
earthquakes. The entire eruption lasts from twelve to twenty-four
hours. The crater appears to be about thirty feet in diameter, and
after each eruption a steam period ensues. In 1911, the eruptions
varied from four to twelve days. Some years previous to this, the
eruptions took place about once a month. It is believed that while
activity, as a whole, is decreasing in the geyser regions, a century
brings only a slight change.
I stood near the crater of the Giantess during the steam period. For a
moment the vapor cleared away, and I could see down the great neck of
the crater into a yawning chasm, so angry and terrible, as to make me
feel that I had seen with the eye what the Bible describes as the
bottomless pit, where the sulphurous flames belch forth, and "where
their worm dieth not, and the fire is not quenched" (Mark 9:44).
If there are those who have doubts as to the reality of the lake of
fire, of which Jesus told His disciples, in the 16th chapter of St.
Luke, they should by all means go to the regions of the Yellowstone:
for here, vividly presented to the vision, are the realities of a
burning underworld, with only a thin crust between it and the
habitation of human beings.
The Bible clearly teaches that hell is located in the center of this
earth, and therefore it must be conceded that the ebon throne of
Diabolus is somewhere in the heated regions below, the intensity of
which the geysers, pools, springs, and volcanoes are continually
demonstrating.
[Illustration: GIANTESS GEYSER IN ACTION © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
Whatever may be involved in the separation of soul and body, it is
nevertheless true that the immortal spirit that has not appropriated
the atoning blood must dwell in the confines of the bottomless pit,
which is described in the Scriptures as being in the center of this
earth. Here are the flames by which Dives was tormented when he begged
Abraham to send Lazarus with a drop of water to cool his parched
tongue, and made an appeal for some one to go to his father's house to
warn his five brothers not to come to that place of torment. Abraham
had to refuse both requests, saying, "Son, remember that thou in thy
lifetime receivedst thy good things, and likewise Lazarus evil things:
but now he is comforted, and thou art tormented. And beside all this,
between us and you there is a great gulf fixed: so that they which
would pass from hence to you cannot; neither can they pass to us, that
would come from thence." Then, when he wanted some one to go to his
father's house to warn his brothers, Abraham said, "They have Moses
and the prophets; let them hear them." But still the doomed man
continued and said, "If one went unto them from the dead, they will
repent," but he was told, "If they hear not Moses and the prophets,
neither will they be persuaded, though one rose from the dead." How
true this is! After all the influence that can be brought to bear upon
people, they rebel against God and follow their own precepts; and true
to fallen human nature, ask for greater evidence of His power. "The
wicked shall be turned into hell, and all the nations that forget God"
(Ps. 9:17). This and other plain scriptures should be sufficient to
warn men to flee the wrath to come. Optimism and presumption
everywhere characterize the multitudes when it comes to this most
important question concerning the future welfare of the soul.
The man who had allowed the devil to deceive him and take him at last
to his abode in the regions of torment, was still presumptuous and
persistent. He wanted help, which it was impossible for him to
receive, and also warning given to his father's house, which they had
refused to take through Moses and the prophets.
It is necessary at this period of the world's history to have an
object lesson like that of the Yellowstone National Park to convince
people of the infallibility of God's word. It is the time of the
fulfilment of prophecy concerning the last days, of which Paul says,
"This know also, that in the last days perilous times shall come. For
men shall be lovers of their own selves, covetous, boasters, proud,
blasphemers, disobedient to parents, unthankful, unholy, Without
natural affection, truce-breakers, false accusers, incontinent,
fierce, despisers of those that are good, Traitors, heady, highminded,
LOVERS OF PLEASURES MORE THAN LOVERS OF GOD" (2 Tim. 3:1-5).
Many pleasure seekers are now thronging Yellowstone Park, and in ten
thousand demonstrations are having to face the realities of God's word
and the life that is to come. I saw some of them standing near the
yawning craters of the geysers under deep conviction, and no doubt
silently resolving to live different lives, while others frankly
stated that the depths of their beings had been disturbed, and that it
was no time to trifle with the soul.
There is no such thing as shirking the responsibility, where Nature
co-operates with the Almighty on such a tremendous scale in the
display of His power. A person may try to stifle his conscience and
refuse to yield to the voice that speaks from above, but he can not
evade the fact that the issue must be met; and why not yield to the
pressure and make the decision now? Life at best is short, and it is
perilous to crowd into some future time the things that should be
taken under consideration now.
[Illustration: THE SPONGE GEYSER © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The TEAKETTLE and the VAULT give warning before the Giantess erupts.
The Vault plays eight feet high, twenty-four hours before the
Giantess.
TOPAZ at the base of the Giantess mound is a pool of remarkable
beauty. I was much interested in the PUMP near the Sponge Geyser. It
is a hole eighteen inches across, out of which comes a thumping sound,
resembling a hydraulic ram.
The SPONGE GEYSER has a beautiful cone of flinty formation resembling
that of a sponge. Eruptions are about four feet high, occuring a
minute and a quarter apart.
The BEEHIVE GEYSER has a cone four feet high and three feet across,
and plays to the height of 200 feet. Its indicator, a small fissure
north of the cone, foretells its eruptions. It is supposed that there
is some relationship between the Beehive and the Giantess from the
fact that the Beehive plays at intervals of from eight to twelve hours
after the Giantess and has been seen to play before the Giantess.
[Illustration: THE BEEHIVE GEYSER © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The DOUBLET POOL is near the Giantess and is marked "Dangerous." The
geyser formations accumulate very slowly and the water here flows out
over a thin crust.
The LION GEYSER, with the LIONESS and two CUBS, occupies a prominent
place not far from the Giant. Its eruptions occur usually in series of
three, about two and one-half hours apart, after which follows a quiet
period of about twelve hours. The first eruption is the highest and
most charming in appearance. The water is forced up fifty or sixty
feet high, the eruption lasting about five minutes.
During some seasons the Lioness has not played at all. In 1903 it is
said that the Lioness and both Cubs played at the same time to a large
party of tourists. The larger Cub plays with the Lioness to a height
of about thirty feet, the smaller one plays oftener, but only a few
feet high.
CASTLE GEYSER is on a prominence opposite Geyser Hill. The mound on
which it is situated covers about three acres, rising more than forty
feet above the river. It has the most prominent cone in the Upper
Basin, resembling an old castle. At intervals the steam escapes and
throws out jets of water, though it erupts only every two days. Near
Castle Geyser is CASTLE SPRING, a beautiful pool of water, highly
colored.
The SAWMILL GEYSER gets its name from the peculiar noise it makes
during an eruption. It plays at intervals of three or four hours and
at a height of about forty feet. Its indicator is near-by; they both
start together and suddenly begin to throw water in all directions.
The GRAND GEYSER discharges water in forked columns 200 feet high. It
is said to play much more frequently in the spring than in the fall.
This is because the water supply is greater in the mountain regions at
this season.
TURBAN GEYSER is near the Grand. The early explorers believed that
internal fires were seen in its crater; if so, it was caused, no
doubt, by the light playing on bubbles of gas. Firehole Lake furnishes
a good example of this phenomenon. The Turban Geyser plays about
twenty-five feet high. Sometimes its eruptions occur with the Grand
Geyser.
The ECONOMIC GEYSER gets its name from the fact that during its
eruptions nearly all the water flows back into its crater. In form it
resembles Old Faithful, but plays only about fifteen feet high.
[Illustration: CASTLE GEYSER © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
BEAUTY SPRING attracts much attention. It is a large, silent pool
remarkable for its coloring. Almost every person, when approaching it
for the first time, remarks about its beauty, hence, our guide said,
it received its name. A rusty color predominates in various shades
from the richest brown, blending into green and yellow tints.
BUTTERFLY SPRING is about four feet across and has an opening in each
wing. It looks like a butterfly in both color and shape. These double
springs, of which I saw a number, as heretofore stated, have a
spiritual significance, illustrating the two works of grace,
justification and sanctification, so clearly taught in both the Old
and the New Testament.
The EAR is a most remarkable small spring. Not only is it in the shape
of an ear, but its lobe seems to be pierced, and the earring is a tiny
geyser. "It is here that messages are transmitted, so the story goes,
to regions below."
BEACH SPRING reminded me of an oyster, the opening in the center
corresponding to the dark spot. It is surrounded by a flat, submerged
beach.
[Illustration: BUTTERFLY SPRING © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
After we had visited the springs and geysers on the hill, we returned
to the camp to await the next number on the day's program.
CHAPTER VII
UPPER GEYSER BASIN (CONT.)
Shortly after dinner the news was circulated that a religious service
was to be held in the office of the camp, where the guests assembled
around the large fireplace. I learned from some friends that our party
was expected to conduct the meeting. Later, the manager asked me to
take charge of the service. She said that it would be impossible to
get the people in until after 8:30 o'clock, as Old Faithful would be
due to make a display about that time, and that the great searchlight
from the hotel would be turned on the geyser when the water reached
its maximum height. This caused much excitement among the guests, and
every person sought the best position to get a view of the display.
Immediately afterward the people gathered in for the service. Song
books were passed around and a lively interest was taken in the
singing, in which nearly every one joined. My brother and his wife
sang a number of pieces together which greatly pleased the audience.
My brother then preached a short sermon and I followed, giving them
some interesting history concerning the Pillar of Fire church. This
seemed to be the subject in which most of them were interested, and I
was glad to be able to give them the information they desired. There
is so much akin to the supernatural in the Yellowstone it made the
preaching of the Gospel easy on this occasion.
The day, after having been full of interest and inspiration, closed
with a message of salvation for the people, which was best of all.
Many gathered around us to express their appreciation of the service.
The next morning I arose refreshed and ready to finish the tour of the
Upper Geyser Basin, which contains twenty-six geysers and more than
four hundred hot pools and springs. A party of "hikers," with a guide,
started out about nine o'clock to make the rounds before luncheon. I
was not quite sure that I could keep up with them, but as many of the
places are not accessible to vehicles I had to make the attempt or
miss my opportunity.
The basin is drained in the center by the Firehole River. Everywhere
steaming hot springs are seen, also mounds and cones of geyserite. In
this basin, within a square mile, are the grandest and mightiest
geysers in the world. There are pools of scalding water whose
marvelous beauty and delicacy of coloring cannot be described.
Everywhere are undulations crowned with geyser cones, or hot spring
vents of a grayish white appearance. In places, the earth trembles,
strange rumblings are heard, and the air is heavy with sulphurous
fumes. How could it be otherwise but that a person should feel that he
is in close proximity to the Inferno which Dante so vividly described!
The RIVERSIDE GEYSER, on the banks of the Firehole River, plays, we
were told, "Over the River" at intervals of six or seven hours.
Sometimes eruptions occur more frequently for a period of several
days.
GROTTO GEYSER has the most attractive formation of any geyser in the
park. The Washburn party named it in 1870. Its eruptions are
irregular, occurring at intervals of two to eight hours and lasting
from fifteen minutes to eight hours. Sometimes the Grotto ceases and
the ROCKET plays to a height of fifty feet. After it has ceased, the
Grotto resumes action.
[Illustration: RIVERSIDE GEYSER © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The GIANT GEYSER, south of the Grotto, is the highest in the world. We
found a person near it in soldier's uniform who said he had been
waiting there a week to see it play. Its maximum height is 250 feet,
which is reached during the first twenty minutes of its eruption. Its
cone is ten feet high with one side partly broken off. Eruptions occur
every seven to twelve days.
Near the Giant are three "boiling caldrons," CATFISH, BIJOU, and
MASTIFF. These are supposed to be indicators, but it is uncertain
whether the eruptions of the Giant are foretold by them.
The DAISY is a very beautiful and reliable geyser, erupting every one
and a half to two hours. Seventy-five feet is its maximum height.
The BONITA POOL, across the road, acts as an indicator.
The BRILLIANT is a beautiful blue hot spring and near to it is the
COMET, which has built up a small cone of geyserite.
When our party reached Castle Geyser on a hill opposite the Giantess,
our guide called attention to the fact that the Giantess was in
action. Our time was limited, but every member of the party wanted to
cross the bridge and go to Geyser Hill and get as near to its crater
as possible. We did so, and it was at this time, during the steam
period, when the water had receded, that I got a glimpse into its
awful depths; and trembled at the yawning chasm which threatened to
engulf us. It looked as if it might be connected with the place where
the king of darkness dwells and his organized forces operate. We had
only a few minutes to tarry, and hastened back to the vicinity of
Castle Geyser to renew the journey.
[Illustration: GIANT GEYSER © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
I was grateful for this little diversion, which broke in on the
regular program of the tour, feeling that I had been fortunate to see
at least one eruption from the crater of the Giantess.
MORNING-GLORY SPRING, or GEYSER, as it is sometimes called, was to me
the climax in beauty of all the springs in the geyser basins. It
looked as if it might be a gem of Paradise that had survived the
curse. It appears to be a mass of many-colored liquids, resembling a
giant morning-glory, hence its name.
CHAPTER VIII
THE BOTTOMLESS PIT
Proof is often asked for statements made that hell is located in the
center of the earth. John, as recorded in the 20th chapter of
Revelation, said,
"And I saw an angel come down from heaven, having the key of the
BOTTOMLESS PIT and a great chain in his hand. And he laid hold on the
dragon, that old serpent, which is the Devil and Satan, and bound him
a thousand years, And cast him into the BOTTOMLESS PIT, and shut him
up, and set a seal upon him, that he should deceive the nations no
more, till the thousand years should be fulfilled."
Where else could the bottomless pit be but in the center of this
earth, when it is implicitly stated that the angel came down from
heaven with the chain to bind Satan? Ours is the sphere for which he
is contending and where he has so long deceived the nations. Where
else could the angel lock him up but on the inside of the earth?
In the 16th chapter of Numbers we have an account of Korah's company,
who murmured and rebelled against the Lord, and Moses, in trying to
show how great was their crime against God, said,
"If these men die the common death of all men, or if they be visited
after the visitation of all men; then the Lord hath not sent me. But
if the Lord make a new thing, and the earth open her mouth, and
swallow them up, with all that appertain unto them, and they go down
quick into the PIT; then ye shall understand that these men have
provoked the Lord.
"And it came to pass, as he had made an end of speaking all these
words, that the ground clave asunder that was under them. And the
earth opened her mouth, and swallowed them up, and their houses, and
all the men that appertained unto Korah, and all their goods. They,
and all that appertained to them, went down alive into the PIT, and
the earth closed upon them: and they perished from among the
congregation. And all Israel that were round about them fled at the
cry of them: for they said, Lest the earth swallow us up also."
[Illustration: GROTTO GEYSER © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
In the first chapter of Job, we have an account of a controversy
between the Lord and Satan. And the Lord said unto Satan,
"Whence comest thou?"
Then Satan answered, "From going to and fro in the earth, and from
walking up and down in it."
The Lord asked Satan if he had considered His servant Job, a perfect
and an upright man, one who "feareth God, and escheweth evil."
Satan, unwilling to admit Job's loyalty to God, said,
"Hast not thou made an hedge about him, ... on every side? thou hast
blessed the work of his hands, and his substance is increased in the
land. But put forth thine hand now, and touch all that he hath, and he
will curse thee to thy face."
The Lord took the challenge, and said,
"Behold, all that he hath is in thy power; only upon himself put not
forth thine hand."
It follows that calamity fell upon Job's household, and he lost his
sons and his daughters and all that he had. And again Satan presented
himself before the Lord, after he had lost in the battle with Job, who
maintained his integrity through his afflictions, and sinned not nor
charged God foolishly.
The second time the Lord said unto Satan,
"Whence comest thou?"
And again the answer was, "From going to and fro in the earth, and
from walking up and down in it."
Here is an admission from Satan himself which proves without a doubt
where he dwells; and it is here that the mighty angel will capture him
and bind him with a great chain and lock him up in the center of this
earth for a thousand years. It is comforting to know that Job won in
the second battle, after Satan had afflicted him with boils from the
soles of his feet to the crown of his head, and so will Satan be
defeated at the closing up of this age, when judgments shall fall upon
the wicked, as upon Korah's company, and great demonstrations of God's
power be seen and felt.
Jude speaks of the angels which kept not their first estate, but left
their own habitations (that is, came down to earth) whom God "hath
reserved in everlasting chains under darkness unto the judgment of the
great day." He also makes mention of the inhabitants of Sodom and
Gomorrah, suffering the vengeance of eternal fire. These are but a
few of the instances mentioned in the Scriptures showing the location
of hell, which is the abode of the wicked, and where Diabolus has his
throne.
[Illustration: SAPPHIRE POOL--BISCUIT BASIN © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The impression that was made on the explorers of the Yellowstone
regions is indicated by certain names that were given to some places,
such as "Devil's Kitchen," "Devil's Frying Pan," "Black Growler,"
"Hell Broth Springs," "Devil's Hoof," "Devil's Inkwell," "Hell's Half
Acre," etc.
That the suggestion of these things should be a mere freak, or fancy
of the mind is out of the question, when there is so much scriptural
proof to the contrary.
Man has been created in the image of God, and a little lower than the
angels (Heb. 2:7). There is a voice that speaks to the soul when all
others are hushed. Intuitively he knows that punishment awaits the
wicked, however much he may try to stifle his conscience and evade the
issue.
The only way to escape the wrath that is to come, is through the
atoning blood, the efficacy of which is proved when conditions are
met. "Without shedding of blood is no remission" (Heb. 9:22).
[Illustration: PUNCH BOWL © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
The PUNCH BOWL is situated in a narrow divide in the valley. Its rim
is ornamented with yellow, saffron, and red. It is one of the gems of
beauty in the upper basin, and is so located as to revive the spirits
of those who, starting out on foot, from the Upper Basin Camp and Old
Faithful Inn, have grown weary in making the tour. When our guide
called it out, I felt that I could go no farther without resting, but
after tarrying a few minutes, and admiring its beauty, I was
refreshed. I was, perhaps, the only one in the company who was
overtaxed physically, and had to trust to the good will of the guide
not to leave me too far behind. He kindly took notice, and halted,
giving everybody a few minutes to rest, while he explained the
scientific action of the geysers.
These beautiful springs in remote places reminded me of the gems of
salvation that are obtained only through sacrifice and suffering.
There is always a price to be paid for anything that is of worth. It
cost me something to visit some of them on foot, but I was well paid.
After leaving the Punch Bowl we followed the trail down across the
bridge where a number of surprises awaited us. The HANDKERCHIEF POOL,
which is sometimes called the LAUNDRY, was among them. We threw our
handkerchiefs in and they were carried down into the opening, and then
brought back and delivered, as carefully as if they were being handled
by unseen hands.
[Illustration: HANDKERCHIEF POOL © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
EMERALD POOL is not far from the Handkerchief Spring, and is by far
the most beautiful in the upper basin. It thrilled me as I looked at
it from different angles, blending from a deep green in the center to
yellow toward the edge. The formations around the pool are red, the
water is hot, but never boils, and slightly overflows.
CLIFF SPRING boils violently. Some people call it a geyser, but it is
supposed to be only a spring.
BLACK SAND SPRING and SPECIMEN LAKE simply defy language in trying to
describe them, the coloring presents such remarkable varieties. The
extremely delicate pinks are mingled with equally delicate tints of
saffron and yellow, with here and there shades of green.
While the springs in this neighborhood are fascinating in the extreme,
we did not tarry long, as it was nearly noon, and our guide said we
would have to hasten.
When the party started toward Old Faithful Inn and the camp, I
decided to take my time and go alone. I had gone only a short distance
through the wood when a harmless snake crossed my path. It frightened
me, and I tried to kill it, but did not succeed. There was a
significance to me in running on to the reptile; it settled something
in my mind, whereas I had not as yet been able to come to a decision;
and I took it as being among the all things that work together for
good to them that love God and who are the called according to His
purpose.
On my way to the camp, I came to three boiling pools, and was
surprised that no mention had been made of them on the tour. Later, I
learned that they were the THREE SISTERS, not far from Castle Geyser
on the road leading from Riverside Geyser, to Old Faithful Inn.
I stopped at Haynes' Picture Shop. Here I saw some marvelous specimens
of art, showing the wonders of the Yellowstone, but none, of course,
could do justice to what I had seen.
To finish up the tour it would take another day, but our time was
limited, and as we had spent a day at Cody and the weather was getting
cool, we decided to leave in the afternoon.
[Illustration: EMERALD POOL © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
Among some of the attractions that we would have to miss in not
finishing the tour to Yellowstone Lake, were Kepler Cascade, Two Ocean
Pond, Moose Fall, and the Continental Divide which extends from Canada
to Mexico.
At the THUMB there are several geyser cones, springs, and paint pots.
The FISHING CONE with a boiling spring in the center, is surrounded by
the cold water of the lake. At one time fishermen, without moving out
of their tracks caught fish from the lake and swung them into the
spring where they were cooked while still on the hook. This practice,
however, is now prohibited by law.
CHAPTER IX
THE VOICE OF GOD
Thirty-four years ago, while teaching school, I had an opportunity of
going to Yellowstone National Park with a camping party of school
teachers and others from Southern Montana, but as I needed money, I
decided to teach a summer school and to postpone the trip until some
future time. When the party returned and tried to tell me about the
many wonders they had seen, I resolved not to lose another opportunity
to go, but I did, and for the same reason that kept me from going
before. After this I was not so enthusiastic over the Yellowstone and
the many miracles to be seen there.
However, I was always interested in some of the descriptions of the
geysers,--Old Faithful, the Giant, Giantess, and others, that threw
boiling water, at intervals, from 150 to 250 feet into the air. In
Gospel messages I used them to illustrate spiritual truths, but no one
had ever given me the slightest conception of the Grand Canyon, the
Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls, the boiling pools, the paint pots,
the cascades, Mammoth Hot Springs, the exquisite colorings of the
mineral formations, Roaring Mountain, "Hell's Half Acre," the majestic
mountain peaks and ranges, Rainbow Lake, the Punch Bowl, Amethyst
Spring, and a thousand other things which so awed and inspired me that
out of the depths of my being, I exclaimed, "What is man, that thou
art mindful of him? and the son of man, that thou visitest him? For
thou hast made him a little lower than the angels, and hast crowned
him with glory and honor. Thou madest him to have dominion over the
works of thy hands; thou hast put all things under his feet."
But how unworthy has he proved to be! Amidst the magnificence and
grandeur of the wonders of Nature, he is ever showing his ingratitude,
and the tendency to prostitute these things to the uses of his baser
nature, and take all the glory to himself. He makes use of the gold
and silver to build himself a habitation that storms are destined to
shatter, leaving him exposed to divine wrath.
As I meditated upon these things, my heart cried out, "Who shall
ascend into the hill of the Lord? or who shall stand in his holy
place? He that hath clean hands, and a pure heart; ... He shall
receive the blessing from the Lord, and righteousness from the God of
his salvation" (Ps. 24:3-5). My heart overflowed like the boiling
springs and the gushing geysers, which symbolize the sanctified life.
[Illustration: JUPITER TERRACE © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
When I first had opportunity to go to Yellowstone Park, I did not
enjoy the experience of sanctification, and therefore could not have
appreciated its many wonders as I do now. Who knows but this is the
reason why the door closed and did not open for me to go until I
should be in the enjoyment of this experience, and able to impart
spiritual truths to others?
There is an inner chamber of the soul that corresponds to the hill of
the Lord. It is the place where the Shekinah dwells and His secrets
are made manifest. Those who know Him in the relationship of the Bride
can better appreciate His handiwork. Submission to the whole will of
God is the price of such an experience.
There are those who appreciate the grandeur and magnificence of the
Yellowstone as a whole, but there are thousands of spiritual lessons
which the book of nature unfolds that the ordinary sightseer fails to
grasp.
[Illustration: BUFFALO HERD © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
At one place, there are two openings in a pool, or two springs so
close together that they are called THE GOGGLES. Here again the two
works of grace are beautifully set forth. Our guide illustrated some
love affair by the two springs to the amusement of the young people in
the company, but inadvertently my mind turned to the deeper spiritual
truths of which they furnish a splendid example.
It takes the Holy Spirit to read God in nature as much as it does to
interpret His word. Jesus said, "But the Comforter, which is the Holy
Ghost, whom the Father will send in my name, he shall teach you all
things, and bring all things to your remembrance, whatsoever I have
said unto you." Also, "Howbeit when he, the Spirit of truth, is come,
he will guide you into all truth; ... and he will shew you things to
come" (John 16:13).
The two springs, to me, represented Justification and
Sanctification,--the two works of grace in the atonement, without
which the soul is exposed to the wrath of God. It is the office work
of the Holy Spirit to reveal Jesus to the heart and to act in the
capacity of the Comforter, but when He takes possession He cleanses
and purifies His temple. This is done when the heart is sanctified
wholly. It is thenceforth the abiding place of the Holy Spirit.
I could not help but think of what it shall be when the earth shall be
rent, the mountains removed from their places, and men shall cry for
the rocks and hills to fall upon them to hide them from the presence
of Him that sitteth on the throne. There is no fear where the Holy
Spirit is the abiding Guest. The rocks may rend and the earth be
removed out of its place, but peace will flow like a river.
Those who are so fortunate as to see the wonders of the Yellowstone
will either soften or harden as the result of coming in touch with
that which is so closely allied to the supernatural. It is like the
melting influence of the Holy Spirit under a Gospel message when men
are compelled to make their decision for eternity. God forbid that
they should harden. If so, what could awaken them to their danger? The
great war that has so recently terminated, bringing so much suffering
and sacrifice, has made people better or worse. It has been a
blessing or a curse, and so will the geyser region be to those who
visit it.
[Illustration: ELK STALLED IN SNOW © _Haynes, St. Paul_]
Should there be those who pass by the wonders of the Yellowstone with
cold indifference and a lack of response to what is seen there, it is
proof that the world has already played havoc with their finer
sensibilities, and as a result of this hardening process the mind and
heart refuse to yield when brought under the strongest moral and
spiritual influences. May God save people from such a calamity,--from
becoming clay that is irresponsive to the divine touch. May they learn
to magnify His name while suspended by the brittle thread of life over
a yawning chasm of burning lava which is threatening to engulf them.
Should man not be prepared for the great event that must come to
everyone, there will be no one to blame but himself. God has made him
a free moral agent, capable of choosing between right and wrong. If he
should make the wrong decision, he will have to abide by the
consequences.
How many tourists will see the spring called the Ear and yet fail to
hear the voice of God speaking to the soul through its many beauties!
How many fail to hear Him speaking through the great subterranean
channels hundreds of feet below the surface, thundering the terrors of
a broken law and heralding the news of His impending judgments!
[Illustration: GOLDEN GATE CANYON AND VIADUCT]
A great author said, "O woman, thy name is frailty." The many
short-comings of the gentler sex provoked this expression, but does
not the word frailty equally apply to every individual on whom the
curse has fallen? There is ever a downward tendency and a proneness to
place the affections on material things, to worship the creature
rather than the Creator.
It is with much difficulty that tourists in the Yellowstone are
prevented from defacing the formations around the geysers, which have
been centuries in making. There are those who would pay almost any
price to be permitted to carry away souvenirs, but if they were
allowed to do so one can readily see what the consequence would be. Of
what use are pieces of geyserite when taken away from their natural
environment? It would be impossible to form an opinion as to what they
represent. Likewise there are those who are satisfied with mere forms
of religion,--baptism, church membership, or any substitute for real
salvation. What knowledge would a piece of geyserite give a person of
Old Faithful, the Giant, or the Giantess, in action?
Baptism with water is an outward sign of an inner work, but there are
multitudes who are satisfied with the souvenir and go blindly on to
the Judgment to find their mistake when it is too late to make amends.
There can be no excuse on account of ignorance, for the Scriptures
furnish abundant evidence that there must be a work wrought by the
Holy Spirit in the heart before a person is ready for the skies.
There is no better illustration of the sanctified experience than that
which the geysers demonstrate. Jesus said to the woman at the well,
"But whosoever drinketh of the water that I shall give him shall never
thirst; but the water that I shall give him shall be in him a well of
water springing up into everlasting life."
So with one who obtains the living water,--he has an inexhaustible
supply, springing up in his soul. Outward conditions do not affect the
deep whence it has its source, but it flows on regardless of
conditions on the surface, bringing life and happiness to multitudes.
At three o'clock in the afternoon, we boarded one of the touring cars
to Yellowstone, Montana, the Western Entrance to the Park, where
there is a branch terminal of the Union Pacific Railroad. A little
more than four days had elapsed since we started on the tour at Cody,
Wyoming, but to me it was the beginning of a new epoch, and I felt
that enough had been crowded into the four days to talk and write
about for the rest of my life. I had stocked up my storehouse with a
supply of illustrations to be used in books and Gospel exhortations;
and not only expected to profit by what I had seen, but to do what I
could to make an impression upon others; and the result so far has
been satisfactory.
THE YELLOWSTONE PARK AND HOW IT WAS NAMED
The Devil was sitting in Hades one day,
In a very disconsolate sort of a way.
One could tell from his vigorous switching of tail,
His scratching his horn with the point of his nail,
That something had gone with His Majesty wrong,
The steam was so thick and the sulphur so strong.
He rose from his throne with a gleam in his eye,
And beckoning an agate-eyed imp standing by,
Commanded forthwith to be sent to him there
Old Charon, employed in collecting the fare
Of the wicked, who crossed the waters of Styx,
And found themselves soon in a deuce of a fix.
Old Charon, thus summoned, came soon to his chief,
As the Devil was angry, the confab was brief.
Says the Devil to Charon, "Now, what shall I do?
The world it grows worse and grows wickeder, too;
What with Portland, Chicago, Francisco, New York,
I get in my mortals too fast for my fork;
I haven't the room in these caverns below,
St. Peter, above, is rejecting them so.
So hie you, my Charon, to earth, far away,
Fly over the globe without any delay,
And find me a spot, quite secluded and drear,
Where I can drill holes from the center in here.
I must blast out more space; so survey the spot well,
For the project on hand is the enlargement of Hell.
"But recollect one thing, Old Charon, when you
Can locate the district where I can bore through,
There must be conveniences scattered around
To carry on business when I'm above ground.
An 'ink-pot' must always be ready at hand
To write out the names of the parties I strand.
There must be a 'punch-bowl,' a 'frying pan,' too,
A 'caldron' in which to concoct a 'ragout.'
An 'old faithful' sentinel showing my power,
Must shoot a salute on the earth every hour,
And should any mortal by accident view
The spot you have chosen, why, this you must do:
Develop a series of pools, green and blue,
That while these poor earth bugs may beauties admire,
They'll forget that below I'm poking the fire.
Now fly away, Charon, be quick as you can,
For my place here's so full that I can't roast a man."
To earth flew fleet Charon, to regions of ice;
He found these too cold--so away in a trice
He sought a location in Africa's sands,
He prospected, and finding too much on his hands,
He cut out Australia, Siberia, too,
The north part of China--no! they would not do;
Till, just as about to relinquish the chase,
He stumbled upon a most singular place,
'Twas deep in the midst of a mountainous range,
Surrounded by valleys secluded and strange,
In a country the greatest, the grandest, the best
To be found upon earth--America's West.
Here the crust seemed quite thin, and the purified air,
With the chemicals hidden around everywhere,
Would soon make the lakes that the Devil desired;
So he flew to Chicago, and there to him wired:
"I've found you a place never looked at before;
You may heat up the rocks, turn on water, and bore."
Then the Devil with mortals kept plying the fire,
Extracting the water around from the mire,
And boring great holes with a terrible dust,
Till soon quite a number appeared near the crust,
Then he turned on the steam--and lo! upward did fly,
Through rents in the surface, the rocks to the sky.
Then with a rumble there came from each spot,
Huge volumes of water remarkably hot,
That had been there in caverns since Lucifer fell--
Thus immensely enlarging the confines of Hell,
And it happens that now when Old Charon brings in
A remarkable load of original sin,
That His Majesty quietly rakes up the coals,
And up spouts the water, in jets, through the holes,
One may tell by the number of spurts when they come,
How many poor mortals the Devil takes home.
But Yankees can sometimes, without doing evil,
O'ermatch in sagacity even the Devil.
For not long ago Uncle Sam came that way
And said to himself, "Here's the Devil to pay.
Successful I've been in all previous wars;
Now Satan shall bow to the Stripes and the Stars.
This property's mine, and I hold it in fee;
And all of this earth shall its majesty see.
The deer and the elk unmolested shall roam,
The bear and the buffalo each have a home;
The eagle shall spring from her eyrie and soar
O'er crags in the canyons where cataracts roar;
The wild fowls shall circle the pools in their flight,
The geysers shall flash in the moonbeams at night,
Now I christen the country--let all nations hark!
I name it the Yellowstone National Park."
--WM. TOD HELMUTH.
(Reprinted from Haynes' Guide of Yellowstone National Park).
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