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Title: At the Court of the Amîr - A Narrative
Author: Gray, John Alfred
Language: English
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Copyright Status: Not copyrighted in the United States. If you live elsewhere check the laws of your country before downloading this ebook. See comments about copyright issues at end of book.

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The Amîr of Afghanistan, from a painting by the Author.]





  Publishers in Ordinary to Her Majesty the Queen
  [_All Rights Reserved_]


I would not have thought of inflicting a book on my long-suffering
fellow-countrymen, but for the wish expressed by my publishers: for

  “Every fool describes in these bright days
  His wondrous journey to some Foreign Court.”

In Afghanistan however, difficult of access, and hence comparatively
unknown, there have been, since that strong man Amîr Abdurrahman
ascended the Throne, such remarkable changes in the administration of
the country, and such strides towards civilization, that it was thought
a narrative of life there, throwing, possibly, some light on the
personality of the Monarch, and on the “bent” of the people, might be
of general interest.

The book has been written in the intervals of professional work, and,
with its shortcomings of diction and style, the only merit it can
claim--that of “local colour”--is due to the fact that it was compiled
from the letters I wrote from Afghanistan to her who is now my wife.






The start and the wherefore. Unsettled condition of Afghanistan.
Departure from Peshawur. Jumrûd Fort and the Watch-tower. The Afghan
guard. The Khyber defile. Eccentricities of Rosinante. Lunch at Ali
Musjid. Pathan villages. Pathans, their appearance and customs. Arrival
at Landi-Kotal Serai. The Shenwari country. Caravan of Traders. Dakka.
Dangers of the Kabul River. Mussaks. Camp at Bassawal. Chahardeh.
Mountain road by the river. Distant view of Jelalabad.



Arrival at Jelalabad, Reception by the Governor. The Palace. The
Town. The Plain. Quarters in the Guest Pavilion. The friendly Khan.
Tattang and the gunpowder factory. The Royal gardens at Nimla. The
Suffêd Koh Mountains. Arboreal distribution in Afghanistan. Gundamuk.
Assassination of Cavagnari: details of the plot. The “Red bridge.”
Commencement of mountainous ascent to Kabul. Jigdilik. Massacre of
British in 1837. Former dangers of the valley of Katasang. Enterprising
peasants. Tomb in the Sei Baba valley. Burial customs. The Lataband
Pass and the Iron Cage. Distant view of Kabul. The Amîr’s projected
road at Lataband. The approach to Kabul. The Lahore Gate.



Position of Kabul. Its defences. Amîr’s opinion of the Founders of
his Capital. Entry into Kabul. Aspect of the Townsmen. Arrival at the
Arm Foundry. Visit of the Afghan Official. His appearance. Absence of
Amîr. To be received at the Palace by the Princes. The approach to
the Palace. The Amîr’s Pavilion. Page boys. The Princes Habibullah
and Nasrullah. The Reception. Internal arrangement of Pavilion. The
earthquake. Abrupt ending of the Reception. Other buildings in the



The first attendance at an Afghan Hospital. Its arrangement. The
drugs and instruments. The Patients. An Interpreter presents himself.
Dispensers. Marvellous recovery of the Page boy. Its effect. Buildings
near the Hospital. The Durbar Hall and Guest House. The Sherpûr
Military Hospital. Lord Roberts and the Sherpûr Cantonment. Adventure
with an Afghan soldier. Arrangement of the In-patient Hospital. Diet of
Patients. Attendance of Hakims. Storekeepers and their ways.



The Residential streets of Kabul. Their appearance and arrangement. The
Police. Criminal Punishments. The Houses. Their internal arrangement.
Precautions to ensure privacy. Manner of building for the rich and
for the poor. Effect of rain and earthquake. The warming of houses in
winter. Afternoon teas. Bath-houses. The Afghan bath.



The unpopular Governor and his toothache. The meeting in the Erg
Bazaar. Appearance of the Kabul Bazaars. The shops and their
contents. Boots, shoes, and cobblers. Copper workers. The tinning of
cooking pots. Impromptu tobacco pipes. Tobacco smoking by the Royal
Family. Silk and cotton. “Bargaining.” “Restaurants.” Tea drinking.
Confectioners. The baker’s oven. Flour mills. The butcher’s shop.
Postîns and their cost. Furs. Ironmongers. Arms. “The German sword.”
The Afghan tulwar. Rifles and pistols. Bows. Silver and gold-smiths.
Caps and turbans. Embroidery. Grocers: tea, sugar, soap, and candles,
and where they come from. Fruiterers. Tailors. “The Railway Guard.”
Costume of the Kabuli townsmen. Personal effect of the Amîr on costume.
Drug shops.



Sir S. Pyne’s adventure in the Kabul river. The Tower on the bank.
Minars of Alexander. Mahomedan Mosques. The cry of the Priest. Prayers
and Religious Processions. Afghan conception of God. Religious and
non-Religious Afghans. The schoolhouse and the lessons. Priests.
Sêyids: descendants of the Prophet. The lunatic Sêyid. The Hafiz who
was fined. The Dipsomaniac. The Chief of the Police and his ways.
Danger of prescribing for a prisoner. “The Thing that walks at night.”
The end of the Naib. Death-bed services. The Governor of Bamian.
Courtship and weddings among the Afghans. The formal proposal by a
Superior Officer. The wedding of Prince Habibullah. Priests as healers
of the sick. The “Evil Eye.” Ghosts.



Accidents from machinery in motion. The “dressers of wounds” in
Afghanistan. Their methods of treating wounds, and the results of
the same. The “Barber surgeons.” Tooth drawing and bleeding. The
Hindustani “Doctors.” “Eye Doctors” and their work. The Hakims or
Native Physicians. Treatment of disease by the People. Aspect in which
European Physicians are viewed by the different Classes.



Jealousy and its results. Sport among the Afghans. The “Sportsmen”
among the mountains. Order to join the Amîr in Turkestan. Preparations.
Camp at Chiltan. The Banquet. The Nautch dance. Among the Hindu Kush
mountains. The camp in the Hazara country. Courtesy of Jan Mahomed.
Mountain paths. Iron spring. The underground river and the Amîr’s
offer. The Red mountain and the Deserted City. Camp in the Valley
of Bamian. The English prisoners of 1837. The Petrified Dragon. The
Colossal Idols: The Cave-dwellers. The Pass of the “Tooth-breaker.”
Ghuzniguk. Story of Ishak’s rebellion. Tash Kurghán: the Shave and the
Hospital. “The Valley of Death.” The Plains of Turkestan and the heat
thereof. The Mirage. Arrival at Mazar. The House. Story of the death of
Amîr Shere Ali.



To be “presented.” The Palace Gardens. The Amîr. Questions asked by
His Highness. Punishment of rebellious in Afghanistan. Asiatic motives
from European standpoint. Amîr’s arrangement for my safety. Bazaars
and houses of Mazar. The Suburbs. The Military Hospital. The Patients.
Afghan appreciation of European medical treatment. The two chief
Hakims. Hindustani intrigue. Amîr’s sense of Justice. The Trial. A
Courtier’s influence. The guard of the Amîr’s table.



General Nassir Khan. The Belgian’s Request. Escape of Allah Nûr:
his Capture. The Amîr’s Decision. The Turkestan Commander-in-Chief.
Operation on Allah Nûr. The Armenian’s Comments. Illness of Hadji Jan
Mahomed. Excursion to Takh-ta-Pûl. Fortune-telling among the Afghans.
The Policeman-cook and the Lunch. Balkh. The Mosque at Mazar-i-Sherif
and its Miracles. Called to His Highness. The Cool-air Pavilion.
Illness of the British Agent: the Armenian’s advice: the Answer from
the Amîr. Brigadier Hadji-Gul Khan. Afghan Endurance of Suffering.
Euclid and Cards.



Slaves in Kabul: prisoners of war and others. The frequent rebellions.
The different nationalities in Afghanistan. Origin of the Afghan
race. The Turk Sabaktakin. Mahmûd of Ghuzni. Buddhism displaced by
Mahomedanism. Border Afghans. Duranis. Ghilzais. Founding of a Dynasty
of Afghan Kings. Ahmad Shah. Timûr Shah. The Sons of Timûr. Zaman Shah.
The Afghan “Warwick.” Execution of Paînda. Rebellion of the Shah’s
brother. Mahmûd Shah. Another brother rebels. Shujah-ul-Mulk crowned:
deposed by the Barakzai chief. Exile of Shujah. The Koh-i-nûr. The
Puppet-king and the Barakzai Wazir. Murder of the Wazir. The Wazir’s
brother becomes Amîr. The first Afghan War. Rule of Dôst Mahomed: A
Standing Army established. Accession of Shere Ali. Amîr Afzal Khan.
Abdurrahman. The Ghilzais. Border Pathans, Afridis, Shinwaris. The
Hazaras. Turkomans, Usbàks. The Christian Church.



Hazara slaves, Kaffir slaves, and others. Court Pages. High positions
occupied by slaves. Price of slaves. Wife and children of Hazara
Chief in slavery. Illness of the Hostage of an Afghan Chief. Abdur
Rashid down with fever. Own illness and the aches thereof. The
British Agent’s postal arrangements. Postage in Afghanistan. Power of
annoying possessed by Interpreters. The Chief Bugler. The Page boy
and the Sirdar. The Page boy and the Amîr. The uproar on September
15th. Congratulations to the Sultana. The crowd outside the Harem
Serai. The Sultana’s reply. Matter of succession complicated. Surgical
operations. The Priest with a blemish: his request. The Amîr’s reply.
The operation. The Mirza’s comments.



The Amîr’s autograph letter. Medical consultation concerning the
rearing of the Prince. Conflicting customs of the Orient and the
Occident. Conservative nurses. The “Hakim fair to see”: the patient.
Lessons in Persian and in English. Portrait painting. Dietary
difficulties. Gracious acts of His Highness. Amîr’s letter of
condolence. The Royal visit by deputy. Congratulations of the British
Agent. Accident to the favourite Page. The khirgar. Attempt upon the
life of the Amîr. An earthquake. Afghan appreciation of pictures and
jokes. Generosity of the Amîr. The first winter Durbar. The Royal
costume. The Amîr’s question: the Parable. The dining-room. The guests.
The breakfast. The press of State business. Amîr’s thoughtful kindness.
Visit to the Commander-in-Chief. The ride to the Hospital. Adventure
with the “fool horse.” Hospital patients in winter. “Two much and three



Sent for to the Palace. Fragility of Europeans. The Amîr’s postîn. The
Bedchamber. The King’s evening costume. The guests. The Amîr’s illness.
School in the Durbar-room. The Amîr’s conversation. Khans: the water
supply of London: plurality of wives. The Amîr is bled. His Highness a
physician in Turkestan. Drawing. The Amîr’s portrait. Amîr’s choice of
costume. The Shah of Persia. Portraits of the Shah. The rupee and the
Queen’s portrait. Cigar holders. Concerning Afghan hillmen. Dinner.
The Amîr’s domestic habits. Amîr’s consideration for subordinates.
European customs. The new Kabul. Native drugs. Soup and beef tea. The
paper trick. The Kafir Page. European correspondence. Vaccination of
Prince Mahomed Omer. Afghan women. The Prince’s house. The Prince. The
operation. Abdul Wahid. Afghan desire for vaccination. The Armenian’s
useful sagacity. An Afghan superstition. The Agent’s secretary. His
comments upon Bret Harte: the meaning of “By Jove.” European “divorce”
from an Oriental point of view.



Morning prayers. Early tea. Breakfast. The first sitting for the Amîr’s
portrait. The Courtier’s criticism. The Amîr’s rebuke. The Deputation.
Conversation with the Amîr: the climate of England and Australia. Awe
of the Courtiers. The favourite Page boy’s privileges. Serious incident
at a sitting. The Captain’s toothache. Present of a rifle from the
Amîr. The shooting expedition and its dangers. Courage of the “Burma
policeman.” The eccentric rider. The singing Afghan. The scenery of
Mazar. Salutations in the market place. The meeting with Prince Amin



The “villain” cook. Mental effect of a cold in the head. Portrait of
the infant Prince. The Amîr’s reflection in the window. The Amîr as
an Art Critic. Salaams to the King’s Portrait. The Amîr’s toilet. A
shooting expedition. The mud of Mazar. The Armenian’s comments. The
sample case of cigars. The Amîr’s handwriting. A sunset.



The Mahomedan New Year’s Eve. Presents. The “Izzat” medal. Coinage
of Afghanistan: Rupees: Pice: the “Tilla.” Levee on New Year’s Day.
The guests: Maleks and Governors: the British Agent. Presents to the
Amîr. Chess as played in Afghanistan. The Amîr as a Pathologist. The
steam-engine pony. Sight-seeing with the Princes. The Temple of Mazar.
The booths at the entrance to the Temple. The Park of Mazar. Native
music. The Afghan dance. Kabuli wrestling.



Infant Prince as the Sultana’s Deputy. Reception by the Prince:
the pavilion: the guard: costume. Visit to Prince Hafiz Ullah. Her
Majesty’s photograph. Lunch with the Prince in the Palace Gardens. The
“Royal manner.” The mother of Prince Hafiz Ullah. A drawing of the
Prince. Adventure with the fat General. The power of the Amîr’s name.
The Amîr as a Consulting Surgeon. The Fast of Ramazàn. Overdose of
tobacco. The Evening Durbar. Danger if a King fasts; “Marazàn.” The
Durbar. The surgical operation: attempted vendetta. Flowers in the
Palace. The Usbàk’s artistic design. The Amîr’s diary. The present of
sugar. Official notice of return march to Kabul. The “Cracker.” End of
Ramazàn. The guard of Amazons.



Loading up. The first camp. Tropical heat: the whirlwind. The Amîr’s
khirgar. Scanty rations. Midnight marching. Dangers in the pitchy
darkness. Impure water. Daybreak. The second camp. Lost on the plains.
Naibabad: the rain. The march to Tash Kurghan. The Khulm Pass. Sight
seeing from the house tops. The Durbar. Punishment of the unjust
townsfolk. The Amîr’s health. The eclipse of the sun. On the march
again: the dust: jammed in the valleys. Ghuzniguk. An Afghan “Good
Samaritan.” A poisonous sting: the Amîr’s remedy. A block on the road.
The tiger valley. Haibuk. Adventure with the elephant: the somnolent
Afghan. The aqueduct. Discomforts of a camp in an orchard.



The Durbar in Haibuk. “Rustom’s throne.” The ancient caves. The
wounded Governor: Kabul dentistry. The erring Hakim. Courtesy of His
Highness. “Microbes.” Elephant riding. A grateful peasant. Dangerous
passes. The Durbar at Shush-Bûrjah: the hot river. Accidents on the
“Tooth-breaker.” Akrab-Abad. The camp of the camels. A pet dog. Evil
results of “temper.” A cheap banquet. Coal. Arrival of Englishmen.
Durbar at Kalai Kasi. The Amîr again as a physician. Approach to Kabul.
Reception by the Princes. The “High garden.” The Pavilion. Malek the
Page. Arrival of the Amîr. The Reception. Arrival at the Workshops.



The Îd festival: salaam to the Amîr: the educating of Afghans. Products
of the Workshops. Royal lunch at Endekki: the Invitation: the Brougham:
the Palace: the Drawing-room: the Piano. Evening illumination of
gardens: dinner. The unreliable Interpreter. A night at the Palace.
Commencement of intrigue. Gifts to the Amîr. The rebuke to Prince
Nasrullah. Noah’s Ark: the nodding images. Illness again: the Amîr’s
advice. An afternoon call. Illness of the Amîr: the visit: His
Highness’s question: the Amîr’s good breeding. An earthquake. Report on
Kabul brandy: Mr. Pyne’s opinion: the Amîr’s perplexity. The Hindu’s
objection. The mysterious midnight noise: the solution of the mystery.
Mumps. The wedding of Prince Nasrullah: invitation from the Sultana:
the Fête: a band of pipers. The Prince and his bride. Overwork at the
Hospital. One of the troubles of a Ruler. Scenery near Bala Hissar. The
Amîr duck shooting. The sick chief: his imprudence: his amusements. The
will of the clan.



Sent for to the Palace. The Amîr’s health: the Liniment. Questions
in chemistry. Early breakfast at the Palace. A courtier as a waiter.
Called to Prince Aziz Ullah: his illness. Illness of the Deputy
Commander-in-Chief. A visit to Prince Mahomed Omer. The Queen’s
brougham: her Reverend Uncle. The Jelalabad official and his promise.
Dinner with Mr. Pyne. Death of Prince Aziz Ullah. The Chief ill again.
The weather. The silence at the Palace. December 2nd: the Call. The
town at night. Illness of the Amîr: former treatment. The Amîr’s
prayer. Bulletins. Called to the Sultana. The Harem. The Sultana’s
illness. A poisonous dose. Improvement of Amîr: and of Sultana. The
innocent plot. A present. Musicians. Amîr and Sultana as patients.
Annoyances by an interpreter. A shock. The Sultana’s letter. News from
Malek, the Page. In the Harem: the Armenian’s comments. Quarters in the
Prince’s quadrangle. The Amîr’s relapse.



The Hindustani Interpreter. The Amîr as a host: the Sultana as hostess.
The Amîr’s photograph. The Sultana’s name. Sirdar, the girl-boy. The
sleeping draught. The tea cup and the thermometer. The Christmas
Dinner: the guests: the menu: music. The Amîr’s fainting attack: the
remedy: effect on the physician: the substituted remedy: further
effect on the physician; the Amîr’s prescription. The Amîr’s alarming
nervous symptoms. Hospital cases. Duties of the Princes Habibullah and



Hindustani intrigue: information from the British Agent: offer of
assistance: measures for protection: further intrigue. The “Royal
manner.” The two factions: Habibullah: Mahomed Omer. The question of
succession. Return to the City House and English Society: the cold of
Kabul. The naked beggar boy. The old Kabul bridge. The question of
“bleeding.” Disbanding of a Shiah regiment. Amîr’s advice to his sons.
Improvement in Amîr’s health. The Hindustani again: Sabbath. The Afghan
noble as workshop superintendent. New Year sports. The grand stand:
the crowd: refreshments. Horse-racing: collisions. Tent pegging and
its dangers. Lemon slicing. Displays of horsemanship. Amîr’s absence
from the sports. The Naû Rôz levee. Salaam to the Sultana. Amîr in the
Salaam Khana: reception of the Maleks and merchants: presents. The
Princes standing before the Amîr. Reception of the English engineers:
the “White-beard:” his age: the Amîr’s surprise.



Spring clothing: a grateful Afghan. Poison bowls. A haunted house:
the skeleton in the garden. Increase of patients. Called to the
Palace: Amîr’s costume. Troubles of a Ruler: Secretary in disgrace.
Amîr’s plans for the future. Geologists in the service. Occidental v.
Oriental. Mercantile commissions. The Armenian’s leave. The locusts.
Prince Mahomed Omer and his Lâla. The Palace gardens. A military
Durbar. Amîr’s thoughtfulness. A portrait. Amîr’s opinion of his
people: education of his soldiers. The arrest: murder of the prisoner:
the Amîr’s decision. Ramazàn. Rising of the river. The Íd Festival. The
Physician’s plans: the Amîr’s comment. Prince Habibullah’s portrait:
Prince Nasrullah’s portrait: his remark.



The last Durbar: the Amîr’s remark: a wedding present. The journey
down. An awful day: “difficult hot.” Exhaustion. The work of the
locusts. The breeding establishment: a study in colour. An illegal
march. Simla. The Despatch. Dinners and dances. The study of character.
The Armenian in London. Return to India.



Pathan rifle thieves. Dacca. The midnight alarm: the melée. “Bally
rascals.” The next morning. The terror of the Amîr’s name. Running
postmen. Kabul post. Armenian’s opinion of London. Changes in the
English “staff.” Visitors: letters. Lady doctor’s application. Salaam
to the Amîr. His Highness’s welcome. The military Durbar. Presents. The
new British Agent. Visit to the Sultana. Salaam to Prince Habibullah.
Another visit to the Amîr: his appreciation of scenic effect. His
answer to the lady doctor’s application.



Ramazàn. The outbreak of Cholera. Precautions. Notices in the bazaars.
Rapid spread. European medicine. The overwhelming dread. Processions
to the Mosque. Oriental fatalism. The shadow of death. Removal of the
Court to the mountains. Closure of the workshops. The Armenian as an
Inspector. The Prince’s chamberlain. Death of the Dabier-ul-Mulk.
The mortality. An incident. Afghan appreciation of British motives.
Arrival of an Englishman with thoroughbred horses. Dying out of the
Cholera. Visit to Paghman. The soldiers in chains. Anger of the Amîr.
An earthquake: the Amîr as a scientist. Illness of the “Keeper of the
Carpets.” Arrival of Mr. Pyne and other Englishmen. Another visit to
the Amîr. His Highness’s description of a Royal illness. Dinner from
the Palace: the sealed dishes.



A political Durbar: tact of the Amîr: a friendly soldier. The banquet.
Return of the Cholera. Essay on “Precautionary measures.” Health of
the English in Kabul. Report to the Amîr: His Highness’s kindness.
Visit to Prince Nasrullah: a “worm-eaten” tooth: the operation. Erring
Englishmen: the Amîr’s remedy. Amîr as a chess-player. The far-sighted
Armenian: winter quarters. End of the Cholera. Invasion of Small-pox
and Erysipelas. To Paghman: Portrait of Prince Mahomed Omer: present
from the Sultana. The sketch of the Prince: resemblance to the Amîr:
his costume: arrangement of the group. Present of a slave boy. A lesson
in courtesy to the Page boys. Native dinners. Visit of Mr. Pyne: the
sandali. Completion of the portrait. The Amîr’s remark. Sultana’s gift
to the Paghmanis: Afghan mode of slaughtering. Ride to Kabul: the mud.
The Afghan Agent: the “Gnat.” Sent for to the Palace: a Landscape
Commission: postponement of leave; disappointment: the Amîr’s remedy.
Christmas dinner at the shops. The “Health of Her Majesty.”



Afghan artists. Presentation of the little Prince’s portrait. His
quarters at the Palace. The Prince as a host. A walk in the Kabul
Bazaars. Before the Amîr: landscapes. A fresh commission. The “Gnat’s”
interpreting. The Amîr’s answer. Art pupils before the Amîr. The
Amîr’s kindly remark. The miner’s dog: shattered nerves and surgical
operations. The worries of Kabul life. To Paghman: the glens: the spy.
Sketches. Before the Amîr. A fresh Commission. Adieux.



Afghan court life from an English standpoint. The Afghan Courtier.
Untrustworthiness. Intrigue. Question of “cause” or “consequence.”
Possibility of raising the moral plane. The Amîr’s obvious opinion.
His Highness’s great work. Certain evils. Former condition of the
middle classes: present condition: opening of the eyes: comparison with
similar class in India. Progress in Afghanistan. Civilizing effect of
the Amîr. Dôst Mahomed’s rule: comparison with Abdurrahman. Altered
condition of country. The Amîr’s civilizing measures: drastic measures.
Peaceful measures: education: the teaching of handicrafts: of art: the
spreading of knowledge: prizes for good or original work. Personal
fascination of the Amîr.



  PORTRAIT OF HIS HIGHNESS THE AMÎR (from a Painting by the Author)


  by Arthur Collins, F.G.S.)

  Van der Weyde)

  by Arthur Collins, F.G.S.)




    The start and the wherefore. Unsettled condition of Afghanistan.
    Departure from Peshawur. Jumrûd Fort and the Watch-tower, The
    Afghan guard. The Khyber defile. Eccentricities of Rosinante.
    Lunch at Ali Musjid. Pathan villages. Pathans, their appearance
    and customs. Arrival at Landi Kotal Serai. The Shenwari country.
    Caravan of Traders. Dakka. Dangers of the Kabul River, Mussaks.
    Camp at Bassawal. Chahardeh. Mountain road by the river. Distant
    view of Jelalabad.

It was with no small amount of pleasurable excitement that I donned
the Afghan turban, and with Sir Salter (then Mr.) Pyne and two other
English engineers, started from Peshawur for Kabul to enter the service
of the Amîr.

I had made the acquaintance of Mr. Pyne in London, where I was holding
a medical appointment. He had returned to England, after his first
short visit to Kabul, with orders from the Amîr to buy machinery,
procure engineering assistants, and engage the services of an English

I gathered from his yarns that, for Europeans at the present day, life
among the Afghans was likely to be a somewhat different thing from what
it was a few years ago.

In the reigns of Dost Mahomed and Shere Ali it was simply an
impossibility for a European to take up a permanent residence in
Afghanistan; in fact, except for occasional political missions, none
was allowed to enter the country.

We do, indeed, hear of one or two, travelling in disguise, who managed
to gather valuable facts concerning the country and its inhabitants,
but we learn from their narratives that the hardships they were forced
to undergo were appalling. For ages it has been a proverb among the
natives of India that he who goes to Kabul carries his life in his
hand. They say, “Trust a cobra, but never an Afghan;” and there is no
denying the fact that the people of Afghanistan have had the credit
from time immemorial of being a turbulent nation of highway robbers
and murderers. If there were any chance of plunder they spared not
even their co-religionists, and, being fanatical Mahomedans, they were
particularly “down” on any unfortunate traveller suspected of being a
Feringhi and an infidel.

A busy professional life following upon the engrossing studies of
Hospital and University, had given me neither time nor any particular
inducement to read about Afghanistan, so that when I left England I
knew very little about the country. However, on reaching India I found
plenty of people ready enough to enlighten me.

I heard, from officers who had been on active service in Afghanistan
in 1880, of the treacherous and vindictive nature of the people; of
the danger when they were in Kabul of walking in the town except in a
party of six or seven; of the men who, even taking this precaution,
had been stabbed. I heard, too, a great deal about the assassination
of the British envoy in Kabul, Sir Louis Cavagnari, in 1879; of the
highway dangers of the two hundred mile ride from the British frontier
to Kabul, and, remembering that we were about to trust our lives
absolutely for some years to the good faith of these proverbially
treacherous Afghans, it struck me we were in for an experience that was
likely to be exciting.

What actually happened I will relate.

[Sidenote: Departure from Peshawur.]

We were all ready to start from Peshawur one day in March, 1889. The
Amîr’s agent, a stout and genial old Afghan, named Abdul Khalik Khan,
had provided us with turbans, tents, and horses; we had received
permits from the Government to cross the frontier, and our baggage was
being loaded on the pack-horses when a telegram arrived directing us to
await further orders. We were informed that there was fighting among
the Pathans in the Khyber, and we were to postpone our departure till
it was over. This seemed a healthy commencement.

Three days afterwards, however, we were allowed to proceed. The first
day’s march was short, simply from the cantonment across the dusty
Peshawur plain to Jumrûd fort: about nine miles. The fort, originally
built by the Sikhs in 1837, has been repaired and strengthened by the
British, who now hold it. It is said, however, to be of no very great
value: one reason being because of the possibility of its water supply
being cut off at any time by the Afghan hillmen.

The servants, with the pack-horses and tents, took up their quarters
in the courtyard, but we four accompanied the officer in charge up to
his rooms in the watch-tower. From here we had an extensive view over
the Peshawur valley. The entry to the Khyber was about three miles off
to the west. We had left the cantonment early in the afternoon, and
soon after our arrival it became dark. We dined, and were thinking of
turning in to prepare for our long hot ride on the morrow, when we
found, instead, that we should have to turn out.

The fort was not an hotel, and had no sleeping accommodation to offer
us. I looked at Pyne. The baggage was down there in the courtyard,
somewhere in the dark, and our bedding with it. Should we----? No!
we would roll up our coats for pillows, throw our ulsters over us,
and sleep on the platform outside the tower. We were proud to do it.
But--the expression “bed and board” appealed to my feelings ever

We had an early breakfast.

In the morning we found the guard of Afghan cavalry waiting for
us in the travellers’ caravansary near the fort. There were about
forty troopers--“the Amîr’s tag-rag,” as the British subalterns
disrespectfully called them.

They were rough-looking men, dressed more or less alike, with turbans,
tunics, trousers, and long boots. Each had a carbine slung over his
shoulder and a sword at his side. A cloak or a rug was rolled up in
front of the saddle and a couple of saddle bags strapped behind.
They carried no tents. I cannot say they looked smart, but they
looked useful. Of the individual men some were rather Jewish in type,
good-looking fellows--these were Afghans; and one or two had high
cheek-bones and small eyes--they were Hazaras. All were very sunburnt,
and very few wore beards. This last fact surprised me; I had thought
that Mahomedans never shaved the beard.

It is, however, not at all an uncommon thing for soldiers and officers
in the Afghan army to shave all but the moustache; but I learnt that in
a Kabul court of law, when it is necessary in swearing to lay the hand
upon the beard, that a soldier’s oath is not taken: he has no beard to
swear by.

[Sidenote: The Khyber Pass.]

The baggage was sent off under a guard of about a dozen troopers. We
followed with the rest and entered the gorge of the Khyber. It is a
holiday trip now-a-days to ride or drive into the Pass. You obtain a
permit from the Frontier Political Officer, and are provided with a
guard of two native cavalrymen, who conduct you through the Pass as far
as Landi Kotal. This is allowed, however, on only two days in the week,
Mondays and Thursdays--the Koffla, or merchant days. The Khyber Pathans
have entered into an agreement with the Government that for the payment
of a certain subsidy they will keep the Pass open on those two days:
will forbear to rob travellers and merchants. Doubtless it is an act of
great self-denial on their part, but they keep faith.

Riding along the Pass one sees posted at intervals, on rock or peak,
the Pathan sentry keeping guard. He is a fine-looking man, as he stands
silently in his robes: tall, with black beard and moustache. His head
may be shaven or his long hair hang in ringlets over his shoulders. He
wears a little skull cap with, may be, a blue turban wound carelessly
round it: a loose vest reaching the knee is confined at the waist by
the ample folds of the cummerbund, or waist shawl. In this is thrust
a pistol or two and a big ugly-looking knife. The short trousers of
cotton, reaching half-way down the leg, are loose and not confined
at the ankle like the townsman’s “pyjamas.” On the feet he wears the
Afghan shoe with curved up toe: the ornamental chapli or sandal of
leather: or one neatly made of straw. Draped with classical beauty
around the shoulders is the large blue cotton lûngi, or cloak. If the
morning is cold the sheepskin postîn is worn, the sleeves of which
reach to the elbow. If it rain the postîn is reversed, and the wool
being outside shoots the wet off. The next day’s sun dries it.

The rifle he has may be an old English musket, a Martini-Henry or a
native jezail, but, whatever it be, in the Pathan’s hands it is deadly.

The scenery in the Khyber is rugged and wild, the only vegetation being
stunted bushes and trees at the bottom of the gorge. The rocky cliffs
rise precipitously on either side, and gradually closing in, are, at
a little distance from the entry, not more than three or four hundred
feet apart. The road at one time leads by the stream at the bottom
of the gorge, and later creeping up the mountain it winds in and out
round the spurs or fissures half-way up the face of the cliff. It is a
good broad road, made, and kept in excellent repair, by the British.
Nevertheless, I was far from happy: my mare, accustomed to a town,
was frightened by the rocks, the sharp turns, and the precipices, and
desired to escape somewhere, anywhere--and there was no parapet.

[Sidenote: Eccentricities of Rosinante.]

By-and-bye, however, we descended and were in a stony valley, for the
Pass varies in width from ten or twelve feet to over a hundred yards.
Mr. Pyne suggested a canter. A canter! I knew the mare by this time,
and I had on only a hunting bit. Off we went. Pyne had a good horse,
a Kataghani that had been given him in Kabul, but we swept ahead, my
bony mare and I, much to Pyne’s disgust--and mine, for I couldn’t hold
her. Roads! what were roads to her? Away she went straight up the
valley, and such a valley! The ground was covered with pebbles and big
stones, and cut up by dry water-courses wide and narrow. The narrower
gulleys she cleared at a bound, the wider she went headlong into and
out of before I had time to hope anything. I soon was far ahead of the
guard, only the Captain managed to keep somewhere in my wake, shouting,
“Khubardar,” “Take care!” I yearned to khubardar with a great yearn,
for in addition to the danger of breaking my neck was that of being
shot. Sawing at the reins did not check her, and at last I flung myself
back, caught the cantle of the saddle with my right hand, and jerked
at the curb. I was tossed in the air at every stride, and my loaded
revolver thumped my hip at each bound, but her speed diminished, and at
last she gave in and stopped, panting and snorting. Then the Captain
came clattering up, and I was obliged to turn the mare round and round
or she would have been off again. The Captain smiled and said, “Khob
asp,” “It is a good horse.”

“Bally,” I said, which means “Yes.”

We adjusted the saddle and waited till the others came up. Pyne
remonstrated with me and told me I ought not to have done such a thing,
it was not safe! He viewed it as a piece of eccentricity on my part.

About eight miles from Jumrûd, and where the defile is narrow and
precipitous, is the Ali Musjid fort. This is built on a high, nearly
isolated, rocky hill to the left or south of the road. The small
Musjid, or Mosque, from which the place takes its name, stands by
the stream at the bottom of the defile. It was erected, according to
tradition, by the Caliph Ali. The fort, which is called the key of
the Khyber, has at different times been in possession of Afghans and
British. We hold it now. The last man we dislodged was General Gholam
Hyder Khan, Orak zai, who was then in the service of Amîr Yakûb Khan.
He is now Commander-in-Chief of the Amîr’s army in Kabul and Southern
Afghanistan. He is a big stout man, about six feet three inches in
height. When I saw him in Kabul he did not seem to bear any malice on
account of his defeat. There is another General Gholam Hyder, a short
man, who is Commander-in-Chief in Turkestan, and of whom I shall have
occasion to speak hereafter.

At Ali Musjid we sat by the banks of the streamlet and hungrily munched
cold chicken and bread; for Mr. Pyne had suggested at breakfast our
tucking something into our holsters in case of necessity: he had been
there before.

Beyond Ali Musjid the narrow defile extended some distance, and then
gradually widening out we found ourselves on an elevated plateau or
table-land, bounded by not very high hills. The plain was some miles
in extent, and we saw Pathan villages dotted here and there, with
cornfields surrounding them. The villages were fortified. They were
square, surrounded by a high wall with one heavy gate, and with a tower
at one or all four corners. The houses or huts were arranged inside
in a row against the wall, and being flat roofed and the outer wall
loopholed there was at once a “banquette” ready for use in case the
village should be attacked.

The mountains and valleys of the Khyber range and of the other Indian
frontier mountains are inhabited by these semi-independent Afghans
called, collectively, Pathans or Pukhtana. There are many learned and
careful men among the Government frontier officers who are at present
investigating the origin and descent of the Pathan tribes.

[Sidenote: Pathans; their Appearance and Customs.]

The Khyberi Pathan whom I have described as the “guard” of the Pass
is a fair type of the rest. The men are quarrelsome, are inveterate
thieves, but are good fighters. Many of them enter the British service
and make excellent soldiers. They are divided into a great number of
different tribes, all speaking the same language, Pukhtu, or Pushtu,
and bound by the same code of unwritten law, the Pukhtanwali. The
neighbouring tribes, however, are jealous of one another and rarely
intermarry. There is the vendetta, or law of retaliation, among them,
and almost always an ancient feud exists between neighbouring villages.
The women, unlike the Mahomedan townswomen, are not closely veiled; the
head is covered by a blue or white cotton shawl, which, when a stranger
approaches, is drawn across the lower part of the face. They wear a
long dark-blue robe reaching midway between knee and ankle, decorated
on the breast and at the hem with designs in red. The feet are
generally bare, and the loose trousers are drawn tight at the ankle.
Their black hair hangs in two long plaits, the points being fastened
with a knot of many-coloured silks.

When one considers the nature of these mountaineers--hereditary highway
robbers and fighters, crack shots, agile and active, and when one
observes the unlimited possibility they have among rocks, valleys, and
passes of surprising a hostile army and of escaping themselves--the
advantage of a “subsidy” becomes apparent.

At the distant or west extremity of the plateau, where we saw the
Pathan villages, is the Landi Kotal serai. An ordinary caravansary in
Afghanistan is a loopholed enclosure with one gate, and is very like
the forts or villages I have described. At Landi Kotal, in addition
to the native serai, is one built by the Government. It is strongly
fortified, with bastion, embrasure, and banquette, and any part of the
enclosure commanded by the adjoining hills is protected by a curtain or

Hot, tired, and thirsty, we four rode into the fort, and were received
by the British officer in charge. The Afghan guard took up their
quarters in the native serai outside. Good as the road was it had
seemed an endless journey. Winding in and out in the heat we had seemed
to make but little progress, and the unaccustomed weight of the turban
and the dragging of the heavy revolver added considerably to our
fatigue; but the march, after all, was not more than five-and-twenty

This time there was ample accommodation for us, and after an excellent
dinner, the last I had in British territory for many a long month, we
turned in.

[Sidenote: The Shenwaris: Caravan of Traders.]

After Landi Kotal, the Khyber narrows up. We wound in and out round
the fissures and water channels in the face of the mountain, and
climbed up and down as before; but presently the guard unslung their
carbines and closed in round us. It was the Shenwari country we were
now traversing, and these Pathans, even by the Amîr’s soldiers, are
considered dangerous; for what says the proverb, “A snake, a Shenwari,
and a scorpion, have never a heart to tame.” The Amîr had, however,
partly subjugated them even then, and a tower of skulls stood on a hill
outside Kabul.

Then we came to a series of small circular dusty valleys surrounded by
rocky mountains. There was nothing green, and the heat was very great,
it seemed to be focussed from the rocks. Further on we caught up with a
caravan of travelling merchants with their camels and pack-horses.

These men belong almost entirely to a tribe of Afghans called Lohani.
They come from the mountains about Ghazni. In the autumn they travel
down to India with their merchandise and go about by rail and steamer
to Bombay, Karachi, Burma, and other places for the purposes of trade.
In the spring they go northward to Kabul, Herat, and Bokhara. Under the
present Amîr they can travel in Afghanistan without much danger, but in
the reigns of Shere Ali and Dost Mahomed they had practically to fight
their way.

They go by the name of Povindia, from the Persian word Parwinda, “a
bale of merchandise.” When I was in Turkestan I became acquainted with
one of these men. He was a white bearded old Afghan who had been, he
told me, to China, Moscow, and even to Paris. He tried to sell me a
small nickel-plated Smith and Wesson revolver.

We rode by the caravan of traders and reached Dakka, on the banks of
the Kabul river. This is the first station belonging to the Amîr. The
Colonel commanding came out to receive us, and conducted us to a tent
on the bank, where we sat and drank tea. We were much interested in
watching some Afghans swimming down the river buoyed up by inflated
skins--“mussaks.” Grasping the skin in their arms they steered with
their legs, the force of the current carrying them rapidly along. Two
men took a donkey across. They made a raft by lashing four or five
skins to some small branches; and tying the donkey’s legs together,
they heaved him sideways on to the raft. Clinging to the skins they
pushed off, and, striking out with the legs, they were carried across
in a diagonal direction. By-and-bye some men floated by on a rough raft
made of logs. They were taking the wood to India for sale.

The river here, though not very deep, is dangerous, on account of the
diverse currents.

In the centre, to the depth of three or four feet, the current runs
rapidly down the river; deeper it either runs up the river or goes much
slower than the surface water.

A few years later I was travelling past here, one hot summer, with
Mr. Arthur Collins, recently geologist to the Amîr, and we determined
to bathe. Mr. Collins, who was a strong swimmer, swam out into the
middle: I paddled near the bank where the current was sweeping strongly
_up_ stream. Mr. Collins, out in the middle, was suddenly turned head
over heels and sucked under. He could not get to the surface, and,
therefore, swam under water, happily in the right direction, and he
came up very exhausted near the bank.

[Sidenote: Camp at Bassawal.]

After resting, we rode on through some hot pebbly valleys, with no
sign of vegetation, until we reached Bassawal, where we camped. The
tents were put up, sentries posted, and the servants lit wood fires to
prepare dinner. It soon became dark, for the twilight is very short. We
were advised to have no light in our tent, lest the tribes near might
take a shot at us; and we dined in the dark. It was the first night I
had ever spent in a tent, and to me it seemed a mad thing to go to bed
under such circumstances. I remember another night I spent near here
some years afterwards, but that I will speak of later.

On this occasion the night passed quietly.

The next morning they woke us before daybreak. The cook had lit a fire
and prepared breakfast--fried eggs, tinned tongue, and tea. As soon as
we were dressed the tents were struck, and while we were breakfasting
the baggage was loaded up. We had camp chairs and a little portable
iron table, but its legs became bent, and our enamelled iron plates
had a way of slipping off, so that we generally used a mule trunk
instead. The baggage was sent off, and we sat on the ground and smoked.
Starting about an hour afterwards, we rode along through fertile
valleys with cornfields in them: here water for irrigation could be
obtained. In March the corn was a foot high. Then we rode across a
large plain covered with a coarse grass. It was not cultivated because
of the impossibility of obtaining water. We camped further on in the
Chahardeh valley, which was partly cultivated and partly covered with
the coarse grass. The tents were put up near a clump of trees, where
there was a well. Unfortunately, there was also the tomb of some man
of importance, and other graves, near the well. The water we had from
it tasted very musty and disagreeable. Next day we went through other
cultivated valleys to the mountains again. The river here made a curve
to the south, and the mountains came close up to the bank. The road,
cut out of the face of the mountain, ran sometimes level with the bank,
sometimes a hundred feet or more above it. It was much pleasanter than
the Khyber Pass, for to the north (our right) there was the broad Kabul
river, with cultivated fields on its northern bank, and though the
scorching heat of the sun was reflected from the rocks there was a cool
breeze blowing. I thought it was a wonderfully good road for native
make, but I found, on enquiry, that it had been made by the British
during the Afghan war.

After rounding a shoulder of the mountain, where the road was high
above the river, we could see in the distance the Jelalabad Plain and
the walled city of Jelalabad. However, it was a long way off and we had
to ride some hours before we reached it.

When on a journey in Afghanistan it is not usual to trot or canter, in
fact, the natives never trot. They ride at a quick shuffling walk:
the horse’s near-side feet go forward together, and his off-side feet
together--a camel’s walk. It is an artificial pace, but very restful.

[Sidenote: Advantages of Cultivation.]

There was a shorter route which we could have taken from Bassawal,
avoiding Jelalabad altogether, but it was mostly over pebbly hills and
desert plains, and was exceeding hot. From Dacca we had kept fairly
close to, though not actually in sight of, the Kabul river. It makes a
vast difference to one’s comfort in a tropical or semi-tropical country
to travel through cultivated land where, if only at intervals, there
is something green to be seen. Few things are more fatiguing than the
glare of a desert and the reflected heat from pebbles and rocks; we,
therefore, chose the longer but pleasanter route.




    Arrival at Jelalabad. Reception by the Governor. The Palace. The
    Town. The Plain. Quarters in the Guest Pavilion. The friendly Khan.
    Tattang and the gunpowder factory. The Royal gardens at Nimla.
    The Suffêd Koh mountains. Arboreal distribution in Afghanistan.
    Gundamuk. Assassination of Cavagnari: details of the plot. The “Red
    bridge.” Commencement of mountainous ascent to Kabul. Jigdilik.
    Massacre of British in 1837. Former dangers of the valley of
    Katasang. Enterprising peasants. Tomb in the Sei Baba valley.
    Burial customs. The Lataband Pass and the Iron Cage. Distant view
    of Kabul. The Amîr’s projected road at Lataband. The approach to
    Kabul. The Lahore Gate.

We arrived at Jelalabad about the middle of the afternoon. The town is
fortified; surrounded by a high wall, with bastions and loopholes; and
is in a good state of repair. We entered one of the massive gates, rode
through the bazaars to the Palace. The bazaars, like those of Kabul,
are roughly roofed over to keep out the glare of the sun.

The Governor of Jelalabad received us in the Palace gardens: seats were
placed in the shade: fans were waved by the page boys to keep off the
flies; and a crowd of people stood around. Sweets were brought--chiefly
sugared almonds--then tea and cigarettes, and bouquets of flowers.

We rested for a while, and as we smoked the Governor made the usual
polite Oriental speeches. Then he invited us to see the interior of the
Palace. It is a large white building, standing in the midst of well
laid out gardens, in which are many varieties of Eastern and European
fruit-trees and flowers. The Palace was semi-European in its internal
decoration. It was unfinished at this time. There was a large central
hall with a domed roof, and smaller rooms at the side: a separate
enclosure was built for the ladies of the harem: near by were kitchens,
rooms for the Afghan bath, and a Guest house or pavilion in a garden of
its own.

[Sidenote: Jelalabad.]

The town of Jelalabad is between ninety and a hundred miles from
the Indian frontier town Peshawur, and contains, in the summer, a
population of from three to four thousand inhabitants. There is one
chief bazaar or street with shops. The other streets are very narrow.
Though much smaller it resembles in style the city of Kabul, which I
will describe presently.

The spot was chosen by Bâber Bâdshah, the Tartar king, founder of the
Mogul dynasty of Afghanistan and India. He laid out some gardens here,
but the town of Jelalabad was built by his grandson, Jelaluddin Shah,
also called Akbar, in 1560 A.D., just about the time when
Queen Elizabeth came to the throne. The place is interesting to us from
the famous defence of Sir Robert Sale during the first Afghan war, when
he held the town from November, 1841, to April, 1842.

The river which runs near the town is here broad and rapid, though
shallow and with low banks. All along the river for miles the plain is
marshy and overgrown with reeds. In the summer when the swamp is more
or less dried up, one rides through the reeds rather than keep to the
glare and heat of the road. The plain of Jelalabad, nearly two thousand
feet above the sea, is about twenty miles long, that is, from east to
west, and four or five miles wide. Wherever it can be irrigated from
the Kabul river it is delightfully fertile, but everywhere else it is
hot barren desert. The climate of Jelalabad is much more tropical than
that of Kabul--more resembling the climate of Central India; and in
the winter the nomadic Afghans of the hills in the Kabul province pack
their belongings on donkeys or bullocks, and with their whole families
move down to Jelalabad, so that the winter population of the town is
enormously greater than that of the summer.

Palm trees and oranges grow out in the gardens: pomegranates and grapes
in great quantities; and there are many kinds of tropical as well as
sub-tropical flowers. His Highness the Amîr had an idea a short time
ago of establishing a tea plantation here. It is doubtful, however,
whether it would be successful, for in the summer there is the dust
storm and the scorching wind--the simûm.

After taking leave of the Governor we were shown into the Guest
pavilion in its enclosed garden. Here arrangements had been made for us
to spend the night. On the north side, where the pavilion overlooks the
Kabul river, was a stone colonnade or verandah with pillars. A sentry
was stationed here and also at the gate of the garden. One of the
Khans had asked permission to entertain us at dinner, and with Afghan
hospitality he provided also for the guard, servants, and horses. He
did not dine with us but came in afterwards for a chat. I noticed that
in spite of being a Mahomedan he did not refuse a cigarette and some
whiskey. This gentleman we were told had considerable power in the
neighbourhood of Gundamuk, and we were advised, in case it should ever
be necessary to escape from Kabul, to remember his friendliness; for
though Gundamuk is a long way from Kabul, one could ride there in a day.

Next day we had a gallop through the fertile part of the valley. I had
changed my mare for a steadier horse and my mind was peaceful. Away
to the south it was stony and bare, and in the distance we could see
the snow-capped range of the Suffêd Koh or White Mountains. We did not
go very many miles, but put up at the village of Tattang. Some of the
villages are built entirely as forts, resembling those in the Khyber
district. In others there is a similar but smaller fort, which is
occupied by the Malek or some rich man with his immediate retainers;
the other houses, flat topped and built of sun-dried bricks, are
clumped irregularly together near the fort. But the windows, for safety
and to ensure privacy, generally open into a walled garden or yard, so
that even these have the appearance of being fortified. The villages
are surrounded by orchards and fields.

[Sidenote: Gunpowder Factory at Tattang.]

At Tattang the Amîr has a gunpowder factory, and the superintendent
showed us over it. The machinery is of wood, roughly made, and is
worked by water power. The water is obtained from a stream rising in
the Suffêd Koh mountains, and is led by broad channels to the water
wheels. Along the channels, and indeed along most of the irrigation
canals that one sees in the country, are planted poplars or willows;
these protect the canal banks from injury, and possibly lessen by
their shade the rapid evaporation of water that takes place in a dry
hot climate. The gunpowder is not for sale, and severe penalties are
inflicted on those detected selling or stealing any.

The following day we left the cultivated part of the valley and rode
through a stony desert and over pebbly mountains to Nimla. Contrasted
with the pleasant ride through the fields of the day before, the heat
and glare were most oppressive. The Nimla valley is, however, an oasis
in the desert. In it there is a very beautiful garden enclosed within
a high wall. It was made by Shah Jehangir about 1610 A.D.,
and has been repaired by the present Amîr. One can see the garden a
great way off, the deep green of its cypress trees being a striking
piece of colour among the blue greys and reds of the mountainous barren
landscape. There is an avenue of these trees about one hundred feet
wide, and between them, from one end of the garden to the other, rushes
a broad stream with three cascades artificially made and enclosed
within a stone embankment. The water is brought from a stream rising in
the Suffêd Koh mountains, and rushes on to join the Surkhâb, a branch
of the Kabul river.

At one end of the avenue is a pavilion surrounded by flowers. Here we
put up for the night. Soldiers were sent off to the nearest villages to
buy provisions, and our Hindustani cook, having dug a shallow hole in
the ground in which to build his wood fire, placed a couple of stones
on each side to support his pots, and sent us an excellent dinner of
soup, roast fowl, and custard pudding.

[Sidenote: The Suffêd Koh, or White Mountains.]

We started off early next morning. Leaving the Nimla valley we had a
rough road, often no more than a dry watercourse which led up over
rocky mountains and across stony plains for many miles. As we were
travelling westward, on our left hand, that is to the south, could be
seen the great range of mountains called the Suffêd Koh, on the other
side of which is the Kurram valley, now occupied by the British. This
range forms the southern boundary of the Kabul province, and extending
from the Khyber mountains had been on our left the whole way. Our
route, however, had been somewhat north-west, for we had kept fairly
close to although not on the banks of the Kabul river, but at Jelalabad
we branched off from the river south-west, and came much closer to the
Suffêd Koh.

This range, unlike the other mountains we saw, is covered with great
forests of trees. In the whole country the arboreal distribution is
peculiar. The forests are confined entirely to the main ranges of
mountains and their immediate offshoots. The more distant prolongations
are bare and rocky. I remember once in travelling from Turkestan to
Kabul, everyone stopped and stared, for there on a mountain a solitary
tree could be seen; it looked most extraordinary. In the valleys there
are poplars and willows, which have been planted by the peasants for
use afterwards as roofing beams, and there are orchards of fruit-trees,
but I never saw a forest, a wood, nor even a spinney. The species of
tree on those mountains where they are to be found, varies, of course,
according to the height you find them growing. For instance, high up,
there are the cone-bearing trees, the various kinds of pine and fir.
Then come the yew and the hazel, the walnut and the oak. Lower down--to
3,000 feet--are wild olives, acacias, and mimosas. On the terminal
ridges you find simply shrubs and herbs.

We passed Gundamuk, where in May, 1879, the “Treaty of Peace” was
signed by the reigning Amîr Yakoub and by Sir Louis Cavagnari. Four
months later, in September, Cavagnari, while British Resident in Kabul,
was assassinated with the connivance of the same Amîr. I heard the
whole plot of the assassination when I was in Kabul.

The story was this. Cavagnari had been holding Durbars, giving judgment
in cases of dispute brought to him by the natives, and had been
distributing money freely, till the Sirdars, coming to Amîr Yakoub,
said, “No longer is the Amîr King of Afghanistan, Cavagnari is King.”
Yakoub therefore took counsel with his Sirdars as to the best course
to adopt. They said, “To-morrow the Herati regiments come for their
pay--send them to Cavagnari.” It was crafty advice--they knew the
hot fiery nature of the Heratis. The following day, when the troops
appeared, unarmed, as is the custom on these occasions, Amîr Yakoub
sent word, “Go to Cavagnari--he is your King.” Off rushed the soldiers
tumultuously, knowing the Englishman had been lavish with money. The
Sikh sentry at the Residency Gate, seeing a great crowd rushing to the
Bala Hissar, challenged them. The excited shouts of the crowd being
no answer, he fired. At once their peaceable though noisy excitement
changed to anger, and they retaliated with a shower of stones. The
Residency guard were called out, some of the Afghans rushed back for
their rifles, and soon all were furiously fighting, though no one but
Yakoub and his Sirdars knew why. Messages were sent to Amîr Yakoub, and
the answer he returned was, “If God will, I am making preparations.”
The end was the massacre of the British Envoy and all with him.

[Sidenote: Commencement of Ascent to Kabul.]

About ten miles beyond Gundamuk was Surkh pul, or “The Red Bridge.”
This is an ancient brick bridge built over the river Surkâb, which runs
into the Kabul river near Jelalabad. The bridge is built high up at a
wild looking gorge between precipitous red mountains, and the river
comes roaring out into the valley. The water of the river is reddish,
or dark-brown, from the colour of the mud in suspension; however, the
Afghans said it was good water, and while we sat in the shade of a
fakir’s hut there, the servants boiled some of the water and gave us
tea. Then we crossed the bridge and rode on again. From here, almost
to the Kabul valley, the road is through a very wild and desolate
mountainous region; you gradually rise higher and higher, to nearly
8,000 feet, but just before you reach Kabul, descend some 2,000 feet,
the valley of Kabul being 6,000 feet above the sea. It is, of course,
a very great deal colder in this region than in Jelalabad; in fact,
while the harvest is being reaped in Jelalabad, the corn at Gundamuk,
only twenty-five miles further on, is but an inch or two above the
ground. It would, perhaps, be more accurate to say that the ascent
commences at Nimla. We rode some miles between two ranges of hills--the
long narrow valley being cut across by spurs from the mountains; then
climbed a very long steep ascent, with precipitous walls of rock on
either side, and descended a narrow winding gorge which appeared to
have been once the bed of a river. On either side of this gorge there
was brushwood growing, some stunted holly trees, and what looked like
twisted boxwood trees. Then we climbed the mountain, on the top of
which is the Jigdilik serai. This is 6,200 feet high, and the scenery
from the serai is the abomination of desolation--range after range of
barren mountains. It felt bitterly cold up there, after the heat we had
been through.

They found us a room over the gateway of the serai, lit a blazing wood
fire, and we stayed there till the next day. In the first Afghan war
in 1837, during the winter retreat of the British army, of the 5,000
soldiers and 11,000 camp followers who left Kabul, only 300 reached
Jigdilik, and of these only one, Dr. Brydon, reached Jelalabad, the
others were shot down by the Afghans, or died of cold and exposure.

The village of Jigdilik is not on the hill where the serai is situated,
but in the valley at the foot. Here three gorges meet. One was the
road by which the ill-fated army came in their retreat from Kabul
through the Khurd Kabul Pass. We took another road to the north-west.
We climbed up and down over steep mountains and through narrow defiles
hemmed in by bare rocks. In the valleys it was rare to see anything
but stones, rocks, and pebbles. There was one valley at Katasung where
there was a little stream with grass growing by it. This valley, a
short time ago, was very dangerous to travel through on account of the
highway robberies and murders of a tribe living near. It is safer now,
for the Amîr has killed some of them, imprisoned others, and dispersed
the rest. We camped at Sei Baba, a narrow valley of pebbles, with a
small stream trickling through it. An enterprising peasant, finding
water there, had picked all the pebbles off a narrow strip of ground,
piled them in a ring round his field, led the water by a trench to it,
and had planted some corn. He, however, was nowhere to be seen, nor was
there any house or hut there.

[Sidenote: Irrigation Terraces.]

We occasionally came across these patches among the mountains wherever
there was a trickle of water to be obtained. Sometimes they were more
extensive than this one, and, if made on the slope of the mountain, the
ground was carefully dug and built up into terraces, so that irrigation
was possible. In the middle of the Sei Baba valley was a tomb with a
low wall all round it, and a solitary tree was growing by. On the tomb
were placed two or three pairs of horns of the wild goat. This is done
as a mark of great respect. Every passer by, too, throws a stone on a
heap by the grave, and strokes his beard while he mutters a prayer.
The heap of stones, or “tsalai,” is supposed to be piled only over the
graves of holy men or martyrs; but they are heaped over any grave that
happens to be apart from others, and by the wayside. The peasants,
not knowing, assume it is the grave of a holy man. The custom is said
by some to originate by imitation from an act of Mahomed, in which
the form but not the spirit of the ceremony, has been retained; for
Mahomed, fleeing for refuge to Mecca from Medina, threw stones at the
city and cursed it. By others, these heaps of stones are supposed to
be representative of the Buddhist funeral pillars, the custom having
remained extant since the days when Buddhism was the dominant religion
of the people inhabiting this country. The latter seems the more likely

By the side of some of these tombs a small shrine, “ziyârat,” is built.
If the tomb is that of a known holy man, the passer by, in addition
to adding a stone and saying his prayer, calls upon the name of the
saint, and tears a small piece of rag off his garment which he hangs
on the nearest bush or tree. The shred is to remind the holy man that
the wearer has prayed him to intercede on his behalf with the prophet
Mahomed. On the grave, too, is generally planted a pole with an open
hand, cut out of zinc or tin, fixed on the top. If the deceased has
fallen in battle a red rag is fixed on the pole as well. What the open
hand pointing to the sky represents I never heard.

When we arrived at Sei Baba we found that a party of peasants on the
tramp had halted there--one of their number died just as we arrived.
Seeing that we had a cavalcade of horsemen and much baggage, and there
being no village nearer than seven or eight miles, they came to us to
beg a little calico for a winding sheet. It struck me that ten yards,
the amount they asked for, was rather much for that purpose. Possibly
they thought the living men required it quite as much as the dead man.

[Sidenote: The Iron Cage.]

Next day we had a high and stony range of mountains to climb--the
Lataband Pass, nearly eight thousand feet above the sea. This part
of the journey between Lataband and Chinár, with the winding rocky
road curving high up round the spurs or plunging into narrow ravines,
always seems to me the wildest and most weird of all. The mountains
are so huge and rocky, the ravines so precipitous, and the silence
so appalling. A few years ago the Pass was dangerous not only in
itself--the road in one place runs on a ledge of rock overhanging a
seemingly bottomless precipice--but it was infested with Afghan highway
robbers. Being comparatively near the capital this was particularly
exasperating to the Amîr. Finding ordinary punishments of no avail he
determined to make an example of the next man apprehended. As we were
riding along we could see fixed on one of the highest peaks something
that looked in the distance like a flagstaff. The road winding on we
drew nearer, and saw it was not a flag, it was too globular, and it did
not move in the wind. When we got right under the peak we saw it was a
great iron cage fixed on the top of a mast. The robber had been made an
example of. There was nothing left in the cage but his bones. I never
heard of there being any more highway robbery or murder near here.

From this pass you get the first view of Kabul. In the distance it
seems a beautiful place, and after the long desolate march the sight
of it lying in the green Kabul valley is delightful. We reached the
foot of the mountains, rode some miles along a stony and barren plain
till we reached a village called Butkhak, where we camped. The next day
the cultivated part of the Kabul valley lay before us. First were the
fields surrounding Butkhak, then we crossed a small dilapidated brick
bridge over the Logar river, which runs north to join the Kabul river.
We had quite lost sight of our old friend the Kabul river since we left
Jelalabad: he was away somewhere to the north of us, cutting a path
for himself among the mountains. The Amîr has spent several thousands
of pounds--or rather lacs of rupees--in trying to make a road in the
course of the river from Kabul to Jelalabad, but it was found quite
impracticable among the mountains in the Lataband and Chinár district.
The object, of course, was to avoid the climb over the Lataband Pass. I
have never been the route through the Khurd Kabul Pass to Jigdilik, but
I have heard that the road is not very good.

After crossing the Logar bridge we mounted a range of low pebbly hills,
which run irregularly east across the valley, cutting it in two.
From the elevated ground we could see on our left a large reed grown
marsh surrounded by meadow land, which ran right up to the foot of
the mountains, forming the south boundary of the valley. We were much
nearer to the southern than to the northern limit. The mountains curved
round in front of us and we could see the gap or gorge between the
Asmai and Shere Derwaza mountains. From this the Kabul river emerged
and took its course in a north-easterly direction across the valley.

[Sidenote: The Approach to Kabul.]

On the south bank of the river near the gorge and at the foot of the
Shere Derwaza lay the city. Jutting out north-east from the Shere
Derwaza into the valley, about a mile south of the gorge, was the spur
of the Bala Hissar, and the city seemed, as it were, to be tucked into
the corner between the Shere Derwaza, its Bala Hissar spur, and the
Asmai mountain. On our right, about a mile and a half north of the
city, was the Sherpur cantonment or fortification, backed by two low
hills--the Bemaru heights.

We descended the elevated ground, from which we had a birds-eye view of
the valley, and found ourselves riding along excellent roads fringed
with poplar trees. The cultivated fields separated by irrigation
channels lay to the left of us. On the right were the pebbly hills we
had crossed lower down, continued irregularly west. On the last hill
nearest the town, “Siah Sang,” was a strong fort, built by the British
when Lord Roberts was in Kabul. It is called Fort Roberts.

We rode along the avenues of poplar and plane trees right up to the
Bala Hissar spur. In the time of the Amîr Shere Ali, on the high ground
of the spur stood the royal residence and the fort, and when Yakoub was
Amîr this was the Residency where Cavagnari lived. It is now almost
all in ruins or demolished. The gateway stands, and a part of the
old palace. This is used as a prison for women, political prisoners,
Hazaras, and others. The wall and the moat exist, and inside, some
rough barracks have been built for a few troops. The native fort on the
higher ground of the Bala Hissar seems to be in good repair. I have
never been inside. It is used as a magazine for powder.

We passed the Bala Hissar, leaving it on our left, and the road led
through a plantation of willows extending from the Bala Hissar some
distance north, skirting the east suburb of the city. The willows in
the plantation were arranged in rows about ten yards apart with a water
trench or ditch under each row of trees, and the shaded space between
was green with grass--an unusual sight in Afghanistan. The trees were
planted by Amîr Shere Ali, whose idea was to camp his soldiers here
in the summer without tents. The willow branches are used now to make
charcoal for gunpowder.

We entered the gate of the city called the Lahore Gate. It was rather
dilapidated, but looked as though it might once have been strong. There
were heavy wooden doors studded with iron, and large loopholes in the
upper brickwork of the gate which were guarded by brick hoods open
below, a species of machicoulis gallery. Possibly the loopholes were
once used for the purpose of pouring boiling water on the heads of an
attacking enemy.




    Position of Kabul. Its defences. Amîr’s opinion of the Founders
    of his Capital. Entry into Kabul. Aspect of the Townsmen. Arrival
    at the Arm Foundry. Visit of the Afghan Official. His appearance.
    Absence of Amîr. To be received at the Palace by the Princes. The
    approach to the Palace. The Amîr’s Pavilion. Page boys. The Princes
    Habibullah and Nasrullah. The Reception. Internal arrangement of
    Pavilion. The earthquake. Abrupt ending of the Reception. Other
    buildings in the Palace.

[Sidenote: The Defences of Kabul.]

The city of Kabul, 5,780 feet above the sea, lies then at the foot of
the bare and rocky mountains forming the west boundary of the Kabul
valley, just at the triangular gorge made by the Kabul river. Through
this gorge runs the high road to Turkestan and Ghuzni. An ancient brick
wall, high, though somewhat ruined, with towers at intervals, leads up
on each side of the gorge to the summit of the Asmai and Shere Derwaza
mountains, along the latter to the Bala Hissar spur, where it joins the
fort. From the Asmai a line of hills extends west to the Paghman range.
Formerly the wall was taken across the gorge, bridging the Kabul river.
Remains of it are to be seen on a small island in the middle. The city,
therefore, was well protected on the western side--the side of danger
from invasion of the Tartars: it is comparatively unprotected on the
east, except by the Bala Hissar fort; for in those days little danger
of invasion was apprehended from India.

The city extends a mile and a-half from east to west, and one mile from
north to south. Hemmed in as it is by the mountains, there is no way
of extending it, except in a northerly direction towards the Sherpur
cantonment. It is here midway between the city and Sherpur on the north
side of the river that the Amîr has built his palace.

His Highness speaks derisively of the founders of his capital,
“Dewanas,” he calls them, “Fools to build a city of mud huts cramped
into a corner among the mountains.” One of his ambitions has been to
build a new Kabul in the fertile Chahardeh valley to the west of the
Shere Derwaza and Asmai mountains, between them and the Paghman hills.
Amîr Shere Ali had also the intention of building a new Kabul, and
“Shere pur,” the “City of Shere Ali,” was begun. However, he got no
further than three sides of the wall round it.

The desire to build a new Kabul is not surprising when one has seen the
present city. The first thing that strikes you on entering it is the
general look of dilapidation and dirtiness. Closer acquaintance shows
you how inexpressibly unclean and unhealthy an ancient Oriental city
can become.

We rode through the narrow badly-paved streets, and through the
bazaars, which were crowded with turbanned Afghans and Hindus robed
in bright colours. They moved out of the way of our rather large
cavalcade, but very few showed any appearance of curiosity; and we rode
on to the garden or orchard in the gorge between the Shere Derwaza and
Asmai mountains, where, by the side of the Kabul river, the Amîr’s
European Arm foundry has been established. This is protected on one
side by the river, on the three other sides by high walls.

[Sidenote: Arrival at the Arm Foundry.]

The entrance was through a large double wooden gate, where some
soldiers were on guard. Inside there were built along the walls a
series of rooms where tin workers, brass workers, and others practised
their handicraft. In one of the larger of these rooms Mr. Pyne and
myself were located, and an adjoining one was prepared for the two
English engineers, Messrs. Stewart and Myddleton, who had accompanied

In the centre of the ground three or four large buildings were in
course of erection. These had been commenced by Mr. Pyne during his
first short visit to Kabul. The walls were nearly completed. To finish
them were the corrugated iron roofs which Mr. Pyne had brought out
from England, and the machinery, some of which was lying around packed
in cases in two hundredweight pieces: the rest arrived on strings of
camels a few days or weeks after we did.

In our room we found a large table loaded with sweets, cakes,
kaimaghchai, or cream and tea, and various other eatables. We set
to, but were presently visited and salaamed by some score or so of
Hindustani mistris, whom Mr. Pyne had engaged and sent on from India.
There was a very fair carpet on the earth-beaten floor. Our beds,
bedding, and chairs we had brought with us. A soldier was posted on
guard at our door and another on the roof.

In the space inside the enclosure unoccupied by buildings, there grew
a great many mulberry trees, and outside the walls were large beds of
flowers, vines trailed over upright poles, and a fountain. This plot
of ground had once been the garden of a wealthy Afghan gentleman.

On the day after our arrival in Kabul it rained hard, but on the
following day we received a ceremonial visit from Jan Mahomed Khan,
the treasury officer, who was accompanied by a large retinue of
servants. This gentleman was of medium height and slightly built. He
had a rather dark skin, but a very pleasant face, and was charming
in his manner. His costume was brilliant. It consisted of a black
astrakhan hat of the globular Russian shape, a purple velvet tunic
embroidered with gold, a belt and sword, both highly ornamented with
beaten gold, trousers and patent leather boots. The sword was not of
the European shape. It was made with a slight curve, had no hand guard,
and slipped almost entirely into the scabbard. Mr. Pyne was acquainted
with this gentleman, having met him during his first visit to Kabul.
I, therefore, was introduced. After the usual compliments and polite
speeches, it was intimated to us that Prince Habibullah, the eldest son
of the Amîr, would receive us at the Palace that day.

We learnt that His Highness the Amîr himself was away in Turkestan,
where he had been fighting his rebellious cousin Ishak.

[Sidenote: The Approach to the Palace.]

After Jan Mahomed Khan had politely asked permission to depart, we got
ready to go to the Palace. Our horses were brought to the door, and we
rode, accompanied by our guard and an interpreter, to the Erg Palace.
This Palace is situated outside the town, about midway between it and
the Sherpur cantonment. We rode from the workshops some little distance
along the Kabul river, then skirted the Government buildings which are
built on the south and east sides of the Palace gardens, and arrived
at the east entrance, a big arched gateway in which, however, there
were no gates. Here we left our horses. Entering the gateway we walked
across the gardens, the guard unceremoniously clearing out of our way
the clerks, pages, and petitioners who were walking along the paths.
We saw in front of us the ramparts, moat, and bridges of the Palace.
The flame-shaped battlements of the walls, and the decorated gateway
set in a semicircular recess flanked by bastions, had a quaint Oriental

On the wall over the gateway was a small cupola sheltering what
appeared to be a telescope, but may have been a machine gun. From this
tower issues at sunrise and sunset the wild native music of drums and
horns, which is the invariable “Salaam i subh” and “Salaam i shām” of
Oriental kings. Many a morning in after years was I woke up at daybreak
by the weird monotonous howl of the horns and the distant rattle of the

We crossed the bridge in front of us and entered the decorated gateway,
the wooden gates of which--massive and studded with iron--were open.
Inside was the guard-room, large and high, with passages leading off
from it, and the soldiers of the guard were grouped idly about.

The sentry on duty with fixed bayonet was lounging in a wooden shelter
near the gates. He jumped up as we entered. We walked across the
guard-room, out into the open, and found ourselves in another garden.
On either side of the path were grass lawns and trees. The paths
were fenced off by thin iron railings. All around the gardens were
buildings symmetrically arranged: two stories high on each side of the
gateway, and one story elsewhere. We walked along the centre path,
till we came to a long high wall, with loopholes extending across the
garden, and evidently concealing other buildings; turned to the left
till we came to a small heavy wooden door studded with iron, and with
the posts and jambs somewhat elaborately carved. There was no porch,
but fixed in front of the doorway, about six feet from it, was a high
heavy wooden screen. The object of this screen I could not see, unless
it were to obstruct the view when the door was opened. Near the door
was a wooden bench for the use of those who were waiting. Between the
door and the screen we found an officer in uniform, armed with a sabre,
and several soldiers in uniform, all armed with Martini-Henry carbines
and sword-bayonets. We waited a few minutes while the officer went in
to report our arrival.

We were admitted, and I saw, standing in the middle of a flower garden,
the Amîr’s pavilion. There were roses, wallflowers, stocks, and other
sweet-smelling flowers in the garden, and the walks between the
flower-beds were paved with marble. Directly opposite was the entrance
to the pavilion, and it struck me at once why the heavy screen had been
erected outside, opposite the gate of entry to the garden; for the door
of the pavilion being open it was possible to see into the interior,
and if the door into the garden were also opened it would be possible,
without the screen, for a man in a distant part of the outer gardens
to fire a rifle straight up to the royal couch. On either side of the
steps leading up to the entrance of the pavilion reposed a marble lion.
These I found had not been carved in Afghanistan, but were imported
from India. The pavilion struck one as an extraordinary piece of
architecture in an ornate style.

[Sidenote: The Princes Habibullah and Nasrullah.]

We went up the steps into the entry, where there were several page boys
waiting. They were not dressed as Orientals, but had on astrakhan hats,
velvet tunics of different colours, embroidered with gold, trousers,
and English boots. The lobby led into a circular or octagonal hall,
with a high domed roof, and, entering it, we found ourselves in the
presence of the Prince.

His Highness was seated in an arm-chair, his brother, Sirdar Nasrullah
Khan, on his left, and several officers in a semicircle on his right.
The Prince Habibullah Khan is a broadly built somewhat stout man, and
appeared to be about twenty years of age. He is fair for an Oriental,
is shaven except for a slight moustache, has handsome features, and a
very pleasant smile. Sirdar Nasrullah Khan, who seemed about seventeen,
is of a different type. He is less broadly built than his elder
brother, and his features are more aquiline. Neither of the Princes are
tall. Habibullah Khan bears a strong resemblance to the Amîr, though he
has a smaller frame and a much milder expression than his Royal Father.
The Prince stammers slightly in his speech, and His Highness, the Amîr,
told me this affection first appeared after an attempt had been made
to poison the Prince when he was quite a child. The Princes and the
officers were dressed in European military uniforms, with astrakhan
hats, and though this was an Oriental court no one was seated on the

Contrary to Oriental etiquette we took off the turbans which we had
been wearing, for it seemed better to act according to Western ideas
of courtesy than to attempt to imitate the customs of Orientals, of
which we then knew very little. We bowed as we were introduced, and
the Prince, without rising, shook hands with us, politely enquiring if
we were well, and expressed a hope that we were not fatigued by the
journey to Kabul.

Chairs were placed for us in front of the Prince, at some little
distance, and to his left. Tea and cigarettes were brought. The Prince
spoke to us for some time, chiefly about the machinery and workshops.
He spoke in Persian, the interpreter translating.

There were four alcoves or rooms leading off from the central hall
of the pavilion, each about twelve feet square: one constituted the
lobby: in the opposite alcove, I learnt afterwards, the Amîr’s couch is
usually placed, and one led off from each side. The four rooms leading
from the central hall were not separated by doors, and over each was
a corresponding room upstairs, also looking into the central hall,
but protected by a wooden railing. The rooms were lighted by windows
opening into the garden; and the central hall by borrowed light from
the rooms. The hall, though high and domed, was not more than about
eighteen feet across, and against the four short walls that intervened
between the rooms, were placed respectively a piano with a gold
embroidered velvet cover; a carved wood cabinet; a marble table covered
with brass candlesticks and ornamental lamps of different patterns,
from England and Russia; and a dark carved wood escritoire with writing
materials on it.

As I sat facing the Prince with my back to the entry, I saw hanging on
the walls opposite me two framed chromo-lithographs--one representing
the English House of Commons and the other the House of Lords. A year
or two afterwards I became much better acquainted with this pavilion,
for I had to live there while I was attending His Highness during a
severe illness. The Amîr told me he designed it himself; I fancy he got
the idea from one of the churches in Tashkend, of which I have seen a
picture. It was small, he said, but was built as an experiment; he had
endeavoured to make it earthquake proof by bracing it with iron bands.
It cost him a great sum of money.

[Sidenote: The Earthquake.]

The Prince lit a cigarette, and just as he began smoking we heard a
most curious noise. The lamps and vases rattled violently, and I saw
the Prince’s face change. Pyne turned to me and said, “An earthquake!”
The rattling and shaking increased, the doors swung open, and our
chairs heaved. The Prince sat a moment while the noise and shaking grew
more and more severe, then suddenly he rose and walked rapidly out into
the gardens. The whole court, and we with them, followed hurriedly.
All thought the Palace would fall. With one exception it was the most
severe earthquake I ever experienced. The shock lasted four minutes,
and travelled from east to west. We returned again to the pavilion
for a short time, but presently were allowed to retire, so that the
reception ended somewhat abruptly.

As we were coming out I found there were two other enclosures in the
fort beside that containing the Amîr’s pavilion. Next to the Amîr’s
garden was the large enclosure of the Harem serai. It is not etiquette
to walk past the door of this if you can get to your destination any
other way. I had to enter this enclosure once, but that I will speak of

Next to the Harem serai was a quadrangle containing the official
quarters of the Princes. Each Prince has also an establishment in the
city, where are his servants, and horses, and his harem. Besides these
enclosures there is the Treasury, the Amîr’s private Stores containing
valuables of all kinds, silks and diamonds, carpets, and wines: a row
of cook houses or kitchens: quarters for the court officials and pages;
and barracks for the garrison. The fort, though seemingly strong, and
no doubt useful in case of a sudden riot, is completely under the
control of the fort on the summit of the Asmai mountains.



    The first attendance at an Afghan Hospital. Its arrangement. The
    drugs and instruments. The Patients. An Interpreter presents
    himself. Dispensers. Marvellous recovery of the Page boy. Its
    effect. Buildings near the Hospital. The Durbar Hall and Guest
    House. The Sherpûr Military Hospital. Lord Roberts and the Sherpûr
    Cantonment. Adventure with an Afghan soldier. Arrangement of the
    In-patient Hospital. Diet of Patients. Attendance of Hakims.
    Storekeepers and their ways.

[Sidenote: The Out-patient Hospital.]

The next day Mr. Pyne set to work to get the pieces of machinery
removed from their cases and put together. Followed by a sergeant
and a couple of soldiers of the guard he bustled about vigorously,
issuing rapid orders in a mixture of English and broken Hindustani, and
Persian, which compound language his workmen soon learnt to understand.

I had received no orders as to attending patients, but hearing
from Pyne that there was a City Hospital I rode off with my guard
to see what it was like. I found the Hospital was situated in the
row of Government buildings erected outside the Erg Palace on the
wide poplar-fringed road running between the city and the Sherpur
cantonment, which was made by the British and called by them “The Old
Mall.” These buildings skirt the gardens outside the Erg Palace on the
south and east. Like most of the buildings put up under the direction
of the Amîr, they are better built than most of the other houses in
Kabul. Though only of one story they are very lofty, with thick walls,
and have glazed windows. The buildings do not open into the street but
into the gardens, access to which is obtained by the big gateway on the
east side, where we left our horses when we visited the Prince, and by
a similar gateway on the south.

In the storeroom of the Dispensary I found on the shelves of glazed
cupboards a great many cases of old-fashioned surgical instruments,
some of which were marked “Hon. East India Co.,” and on other shelves
a large collection of European drugs in their bottles, jars, and
parcels. The name of each drug was written in Persian as well as in
English characters. These had been ordered from time to time by certain
Hindustani Hospital assistants who were in the service of the Amîr,
and who had had charge of the Out-patient Hospital and the European
drug stores. The Hospital assistants had not used any great amount of
judgment in their orders, nor had they considered expense in the least.
I found great quantities of patent medicines warranted to cure every
disease under the sun; and of the newer and more expensive drugs of
which so much is expected and so little is known. The old tried friends
of the Medical Profession, whose cost is reasonable and whose action
is known, such as quinine, ipecacuanha, carbonate of ammonia, Epsom
salts, were conspicuous by their absence. I enquired what plan had been
adopted by the Hindustanis when they were making out their orders,
and learnt that they got hold of the price list of some enterprising
vendor which had found its way to Kabul through India, and ticking
off any drugs or patent mixtures that seemed to promise an easy road
to success in treatment, they ordered great quantities of these,
regardless of cost and before they had tested them.

The stores were in charge of a Hindustani, who had obtained a medical
qualification in Lahore, and who had been in the British service. He
showed me a medal, and was reported to be in receipt of a small pension
from the Government, though how he received it while in Kabul I never

I reached the Hospital about nine o’clock in the morning, and found
myself confronted by some eighty sick Afghans who had heard of the
arrival of a “Feringhi doctor,” and were all eager to be cured by him.
In the time when Lord Roberts occupied Kabul the regimental surgeons
had done good work among the Afghans.

A guard, with fixed bayonet, stood at the door to keep off the crush;
he did not use the bayonet, but he used a stick that he had with some

[Sidenote: The First Patient.]

Every patient who had a weapon, and most Afghans wear one of some kind,
was disarmed before he entered the room. I had no interpreter, and had
been advised by Mr. Pyne not to learn Persian; so that when the first
patient was admitted I was in somewhat of a difficulty. I had seen
in a Persian grammar that the word “Dard” meant _pain_, so that when
the first man came up I said, “Dard?” putting a note of interrogation
after it. The patient looked blankly at me. I thought he must be
intellectually very dull, and I repeated my word, but with no better
result. Not knowing quite what to say next, I examined him with the

He was greatly astonished, and shrank back somewhat suspiciously when I
placed it against his chest. However, when he found no evil resulted,
he allowed me to proceed. I could not find anything the matter with
him, and was again at a standstill.

This seemed very unsatisfactory; when to my great relief, a tall young
man, in a turban and a brown frock-shaped coat, stepped forward and
addressed me in imperfect English. I found he was an Armenian Christian
who had been educated in a Missionary boarding school in India, but
he had been so long in Kabul that he had nearly forgotten English. He
afterwards became my interpreter, and grew very fluent, but at first I
had to learn _his_ English before I could understand him; it was quite
different from anybody else’s. However--about the patient--I said, “Ask
this man if he has any pain.” And then I found that my word “Dard”
ought to have been pronounced more like “Dŭrrŭd.” I tried “Dŭrrŭd” on
them afterwards, but either they didn’t expect me to know Persian, or
else there ought to have been some context to my word, for they looked
just as blankly at me as when I said “Dard.” The ordinary Afghan is a
very slow-witted person. I found the patient had no pain, and I said,

“Tell him to put out his tongue.”

The patient appeared surprised, and looked somewhat doubtfully at me. I
suppose he thought I was jesting in making such a request. However, he
put out his tongue: it was quite healthy. I said,

“There is nothing the matter with him;” but the Armenian said,

“Sir, a little you stop--_I_ find out.” He said something in Persian,
and the man nodded. What words the Armenian used to enable me to
understand what was wrong I do not remember, but I found out eventually
that the patient wanted a tonic, for all he suffered from was an
inability to manage his many wives. I said, “Tell the man his complaint
does not exist in my country; I have no medicines for it.”

There were, I should think, a dozen who came the first day for the
same reason. Of other diseases, malarial fevers, eye cases, venereal
diseases, coughs and dyspepsia were the commonest. I was not able to
finish attending to all the patients in the morning, and returned in
the afternoon, finding them still waiting. As the days went by, the
number of patients increased to such an extent, that it finally became
no small matter to attend to them all, and do my own dispensing. There
were Hindustani dispensers, but I was not quite prepared to trust them,
till I knew them better.

[Sidenote: Miraculous Recovery of the Page Boy.]

One day a lad, one of the Court pages, was brought: he was suffering
from jaundice. I put the suitable medicine in a bottle, placed it on
the table, then turned to examine another patient, mixed his medicine,
and put the bottle by the side of the first one. I went on till I
had about a dozen bottles ready, then I ordered them to be filled
with water, and gave them out. The patients took their medicine and
progressed satisfactorily: the Page boy, in particular, rapidly
improved. I was naturally pleased and said so to the Armenian. I
thought he looked rather strangely at me, and he said--

“Truly God works for the Sir!”

I wondered rather that he should be so impressive; but not for some
months after did I know why he was so. Then he told me. It seemed that
after I had mixed the Page boy’s medicine and turned away to the second
patient, one of the dispensers seeing the bottle on the table ready,
as he thought, for use and not quite clean, washed it out and replaced
it. It was then filled with water and the boy rapidly became well.
The dispenser had not dared to say what he had done, lest I should be
angry. There was great wonder and awe at the hospital over that case,
and my reputation as a healer of the sick spread rapidly.

“If the Feringhi,” they said, “gives a pinch of dust (jalap powder) or
only water, the sick became well!”

[Sidenote: The Durbar Hall and Guest House.]

In the Palace gardens outside the moat, and about a hundred yards from
the out-patient hospital, I saw a large white building with pillared
verandah and corrugated iron roof. This was the “Salaam Khana” or
Hall of Audience. It is a long high hall, with twelve lofty windows
on each side draped with English curtains: two rows of white pillars
support the ceiling, which is decorated in colours with stencilled
and lacquered plates of thin brass. The floor is covered with English
carpets, and when, as is frequently the case, a dinner is given by
His Highness to the chief officers of his army, long tables occupy
the aisles, and each guest is accommodated with a cane-seated wooden
arm-chair. During a banquet or festival, the hall is lit in the
evening by two big “arc” electric lamps, the dynamo of which is
worked by a portable engine, which is brought from the workshop for
the occasion. The building lies east and west, and is entered at the
eastern extremity by a big doorway and portico. The western extremity
is entered through a large vestibule with portico and steps. Here the
building is carried up another story, and this part of the Salaam Khana
constitutes the Amîr’s Guest house.

On the ground floor are the great hall, the vestibule or entrance
hall which opens into the Palace gardens, and three smaller rooms. A
stone staircase with wooden balustrades leads to the upper floor. Here
there is in the centre a large pavilion, the Guest House, lighted by
many large double windows, which open on to the covered balcony or
terrace on the roof of the lower rooms. The Amîr and, sometimes, Prince
Habibullah, are accustomed to spend a month or two in this house,
living in the upper pavilion, or in one of the lower rooms.

A few days after my first appearance at the dispensary, I heard
there was a military “In-patient” hospital situated in the Sherpur
cantonment, which lies to the north of the town about a mile and a-half

I determined to visit it, and one afternoon, after finishing at the
City dispensary, we started along the Old Mall which leads from the
town, past the Erg Palace to the cantonment.

We passed first the Salaam Khana, and then, further on, at the
extremity of the Palace gardens, I saw a small monument about twenty
feet high. It was square at the base and carried upward like the spire
of a church. On the square pediment was an inscription in Persian. This
monument I learnt was erected by His Highness to the memory of those
soldiers who fell in the last war against the British.

On the other side of the Old Mall, commencing opposite the Palace and
extending as far as the monument, is a row of one storied buildings.
These open not on to the road, but on the other side into vegetable
gardens and fields at the back. This row of buildings which turns a
corner opposite the monument and extends down a road running east to
the Kabul river, the Amîr has built as a barrack for the soldiers of
his body guard. About four feet from the doors of this row of buildings
is a narrow stream of running water, artificially made and used, after
the Afghan custom, both for ablutionary and for drinking purposes, as
well as for the irrigation of the vegetable gardens.

[Sidenote: The Sherpur Cantonment.]

Proceeding on our way we approached the lofty battlemented walls
surrounding the Sherpur cantonment. This oblong enclosure which lies
nearly east and west a mile and a-half due north of the city, is a
mile and a-half along its front, nearly three-quarters of a mile along
either end, and backs upon two low hills about three hundred feet high,
the Bemaru heights, at the east base of which, within the enclosure,
lies the Bemaru village. The hills protect the north side: the other
three sides are protected by the high walls, which are complete except
for half the length of the east extremity just by the Bemaru village.

It was this cantonment, it will be remembered, that was held by the
British at the time when Lord Roberts occupied Kabul during the second
Afghan war.

The Afghans had planned a sudden night attack in which their whole
force was to move suddenly at a given signal upon the cantonment. As
Lord Roberts’ force was exceedingly small, considering the great extent
of the cantonment, it was thought by the Afghans that an easy victory
would result. The signal was to be the sudden lighting of a beacon on
the Asmai mountain. But there are never wanting those among the Afghans
who, for a sufficient bribe, will reveal anything, and the British
were ready when the attack came. The rush was met by a continuous and
deadly fire, and after strenuous but vain efforts to gain an entry, the
Afghans retired, leaving great numbers of their comrades dead on the

The gate we entered was protected outside by a semicircular curtain.
Built along the inner side of the wall were buildings one story high,
with a massive pillared colonnade or verandah and flat roof. There were
wood-faced, clay-beaten steps at intervals leading to the roof, so that
it was possible for troops defending the cantonment to take their stand
on the roof and fire through the loopholes.

Just inside the gate was a bazaar of small shops, where fruit,
vegetables, and bread were for sale; and soldiers in every style of
dress, Turkoman, Kabuli, Hazara, were grouped about. Some were seated
on the ground playing cards, some smoking the chillim or hubble-bubble,
others digging in little vegetable or flower-gardens. These were
created with great pains around irregularly arranged huts which formed
the north side of the street leading along by the colonnade. These
huts and the rooms under the colonnade were used as barracks. The
soldiers seemed to stare with more curiosity than the townspeople had
shown, and as we rode along towards the hospital one suddenly stepped
forward and seized my bridle. I thought it was a piece of insolence,
and raised my riding-whip to cut him across the face, when it occurred
to me that perhaps it would be as well not to risk a close acquaintance
with the ready knife of an incensed Afghan. My guard seized the man and
hustled him out of the way with many loud words, to which he replied
vigorously. Not understanding Persian, and an interpreter not being
with me, I could not enquire what it was all about, so I rode on. All
the centre of the cantonment was a huge open gravelled space, and here
troops were drilling. The words of command were in Afghani or Pushtu,
not Persian, but the titles of the officers were moulded upon English
titles: Sergeant was pronounced Surgeon; Captain, Kiftan; General,
Jinral; and there was Brigadier and Brigadier-Jinral.

The hospital was in an enclosed garden within the cantonment, and was
entered by low but heavy double gates. A series of rooms was built
along the inner side of the walls of the garden in the usual Afghan
style. There was no connection between the rooms except by a verandah,
and there was no upper story. Each room was about eight feet by ten,
and as none of them had windows, but were lighted simply by the door
that opened on to the verandah, they were nearly dark.

In the garden were a few trees, and in the centre a square sunk tank
for water: this, however, was empty. There was a cook house or kitchen,
with its coppers and ovens heated by charcoal, where the cook baked
the bread and prepared the diets for the patients: Pilau (rice and
meat), kabob (small squares of meat skewered on a stick and grilled
over charcoal), shôrbar, or broth, and shôla, which is rice boiled
and moistened with broth. There were two dispensaries, one containing
native drugs and one a few European drugs. There were, of course, no
female nurses: each sick soldier was looked after by a comrade.

[Sidenote: Storekeepers and their Ways.]

The Hakim on his daily round wrote on a slip of paper the date and the
name, diet and medicine of the patient he prescribed for. This was
handed to the attendant of each patient, whose duty it was to procure
the medicine from the dispensary and the food from the cook-house. I
never heard of an attendant eating the food intended for a patient. One
hakim, the cook and dispenser lived in the hospital. The slips of paper
were taken to the mirza, or clerk, who copied the daily diets on to one
paper and the medicines on another. The papers were then put away in
the stores. No daily totals were taken, so that if fraud were suspected
on the part of a storekeeper, dispenser, or cook, and the Amîr ordered
a rendering or auditing of accounts, the matter took a year, a year
and a-half, or two years before it was completed. However, as I found
later, the order in Afghanistan to “render an account” is usually
synonymous with “fine, imprisonment, or death.”

The next morning at the out-patient hospital when the Armenian
interpreter appeared, I told him of the soldier seizing my bridle in
Sherpur, and asked him to enquire what the man wanted. He seemed rather
startled when I told him, and at once turned to the sergeant of the
guard to enquire about it. It was nothing after all, simply the man,
guessing I was the Feringhi doctor, wanted me to see a sick comrade.
They apologized for him, saying he was not a Kabuli but an uncouth
“hillman” who knew no better. However, an order from Prince Habibullah
arrived in the afternoon that I was not to attend at Sherpur till he
had communicated with His Highness the Amîr.




    The Residential streets of Kabul. Their appearance and arrangement.
    The Police. Criminal Punishments. The Houses. Their internal
    arrangement. Precautions to ensure privacy. Manner of building
    for the rich and for the poor. Effect of rain and earthquake. The
    warming of houses in the winter. Afternoon teas. Bath-houses. The
    Afghan bath.

The same day that I attended the Hospital, I received an order to visit
a man of some importance, the brother of the Prince’s Chief Secretary
or Mirza. Although it was but a very short distance, I went on
horseback, for I found it was not usual for any man of position to walk
about the town. The patient was suffering from Paralysis agitans, or
Shaking palsy, and was of course incurable. I was not allowed to depart
until I had eaten some sweets and drank tea.

[Sidenote: Residential Streets.]

To reach his house we rode through the streets in which are the
living houses of Kabul. I think the most striking peculiarity of
these Residential streets is their narrowness, and the height and
irregular arrangement of the almost windowless walls. Generally, they
are simply narrow passages necessary to obtain access to one, or a
group, of the living houses. Few of the streets, except the bazaars,
can be called in any sense thoroughfares. They wind and twist about
most irregularly, sometimes open to the sky, sometimes covered in by
rooms belonging to the adjoining houses, and they usually end abruptly
at the closed door of a house or garden. When one or more rooms are
built over the street the builder rarely trusts to the strength of
the original wall: he fixes wooden uprights on each side to support
the cross beams. Dirtiness and want of ventilation are conspicuous.
Drainage and street scavenging are also conspicuous by their absence.
At one time it was exceedingly unsafe to traverse the streets after
nightfall--I mean for the Kabulis themselves. Robbery and murder were
every night occurrences. It is now, however, less dangerous. There are
sentries belonging to the military police posted at intervals, each
having a small oil lamp at his station. After ten o’clock at night
every passer-by must give the night word or be kept by the police till
the morning, when he is brought before a magistrate to give a reason
for his wanderings. And the Amîr now punishes the crimes of robbery and
murder most severely. For robbery and theft the hand of the criminal
is amputated in a rough and ready way. It is done in this manner. The
local butcher is called in. He knots a rope tightly just above the
wrist of the criminal, and with a short sharp knife he severs the
hand at the joint, plunging the raw stump into boiling oil. Then the
criminal becomes a patient and is sent to the hospital to be cured. No
flap of skin has been made to cover the end of the bone, and the skin
has been scalded for two inches or more by the oil, so that months
go by before the stump heals by cicatrization. A priest one day--he
may have been a humane Afghan--suggested to the Amîr that operations
of this and other kinds on criminals should be done by the European
doctor. The Amîr negatived the suggestion with a sharp reprimand.

For murder--hanging and other forms of putting to death were found
inadequate. So that now in addition to the murderer being given into
the hands of the deceased’s friends for them to kill as they please,
such a fine is put upon his whole family--father, brothers, uncles, and
cousins--that they are all ruined. Mere life is of no great value to
an Afghan, and at one time if a man found it inconvenient to kill his
enemy himself, he could easily get someone who for six thousand rupees
would do it for him and take the risk of being hung, so long as the
money was paid to his family.

[Sidenote: The Approach to the Kabul Dwelling-house.]

Supposing you have to visit a person in the town, you are conducted on
horseback along the narrow winding streets. You dismount at a door and
stumble into a dark winding passage with your head bent to avoid a bang
against an irregular beam, and you go slowly for fear of puddles and
holes which you cannot see. You come into the open, and find yourself
in a garden with flowers and trees, and a tank or pond in the middle,
or in a small courtyard with simply a well. The house is built round
the garden or yard, and consists of a series of rooms opening by doors
into one another and with the windows all looking into the garden.

[Sidenote: Internal Arrangement of the House.]

The richer men, especially those whose houses have been built within
the present reign, have large and beautiful gardens full of fruit-trees
and flowers, and through them ripples a stream or channel to supply the
tank with fresh water. A house so placed that a stream can be brought
through the garden from some irrigation canal is of greater value
than one where water can be obtained only from a well. These modern
houses are better built and much more elaborate than the older ones.
The windows, large and often filled with coloured glass, are made to
open and shut on hinges. The floors, though rarely boarded, are of
beaten earth carefully levelled. The rooms are decorated all round in
the Oriental way with “takchas,” or small niches having the Saracenic
arch. There is a frieze just below the ceiling, and below this is a
dado, with mouldings which are arranged also around the takchas and the
fireplace, if one exists. The mouldings are of a hard and fine cement
with which the whole wall is faced. The best cement is brown in colour,
very like Portland cement, and is found at Herat. Generally the wall
is whitewashed, and sometimes before the cement is dry it is sprinkled
with sparkling particles of talc. The ceiling may be boarded, but more
often the beams are hidden by crimson drapery stretched tightly across.
In the winter a crimson curtain is hung over the door. The windows,
except in the Amîr’s palace, are rarely curtained.

The takchas or recesses are filled with vases, lamps, or candlesticks,
and the floor is covered with beautiful Turkestan rugs or carpets.
These, with the addition of a velvet-covered mattress, properly
constitute the furniture of a room, for Orientals habitually sit
cross-legged on the ground. Now-a-days, however, no rich Afghan
townsman considers his room furnished without a chair or two; not that
he uses them much except when a distinguished foreigner calls, but it
is a sign that he knows what is correct. Sometimes you even see a small
table, but this is not usual. The houses of the richer men are in the
suburbs. They cover large spaces of ground and are rarely more than one
story high. They are not built level with the garden, but are raised
some three or four steps. The roof is flat, and a staircase leads to
the top. In the summer, on account of the heat, it is usual for a tent
to be erected on the top of the house, and for the owner to sleep
there. There are apartments which are devoted solely to the ladies of
the harem, and also kitchens and quarters for the servants and slaves.
The stables are, as a rule, in another enclosure. The whole house and
garden, surrounded by its high wall and entered by only one gate, is
absolutely private and screened entirely from any curious eye.

Generally there is a room arranged apart from the rest with its window
opening outside and not into the garden. This is often a story above
the others, and has a staircase of its own. It is for the reception of
male visitors who are not relatives or intimate friends of the host.

The houses of the less rich, particularly those in the heart of the
town where space is limited, are two, three, or even four stories
high. They are built on very much the same plan, though the garden is
replaced by a small cramped yard. Many of these are very old houses,
and their window sashes do not hang on hinges, but consist of three
shutters one above the other, sometimes beautifully carved. If the
owner can afford glass the top shutter has one small pane, the second,
two, and the third, three; generally, however, there is no glass. The
shutters all push up out of the way, and the window is generally wide
open, for in the spring, summer, and autumn, the heat is considerable.
It is only in the newest houses that you see fireplaces, and these are
rarely used, not because the winter is not cold, but because wood is
too expensive to burn in such an extravagant way. There is coal in the
country, but it is not in use. Even if mines were worked it would be
far too costly a proceeding in the absence of railways to bring the
coal to town. Quite lately a little inferior coal has been brought for
use in the Amîr’s workshops, but there is none for sale.

In the winter people keep themselves warm by means of a charcoal
brazier or sandali, which I will describe presently. In the city, the
houses being crowded so close to one another, it was to me a source of
wonder how the owners could prevent themselves being overlooked. I was
informed that if a man standing on the top of his house could see into
his neighbour’s enclosure, even into the garden, he was compelled by
law to build a wall or screen to cut off his view: a violation of the
privacy of a man’s dwelling by looking over the wall is a great offence
in Afghanistan.

[Sidenote: The Building of the House.]

When a house is to be built, a trench two feet deep is dug and large
stones or pieces of rock, unshaped, are packed in with a mixture of
clay and chopped straw. This is the foundation. The thickness of the
wall depends on the class of house and the height it is to be built.
Two feet is about the thickness of the wall of a house one story
high. In the poorer houses the wall is built of lumps of clay or mud
mixed with chopped straw: in the better houses, of sun-dried bricks
six inches square, an inch thick, and laid on the flat: in the best,
of similar bricks properly baked. The roof is supported on beams of
unshaped poplar. The wood being of poor quality the beams are arranged
close together, with a space of not more than two or three inches
between each. The beams are covered with rush matting, or, in some
houses, little pieces of wood, about four inches long and an inch
wide, are placed from beam to beam close together. Over this or the
matting is placed clay and chopped straw to the thickness of eight or
nine inches. Upper floors are made in precisely the same way. As there
is very little rain in the country, a house built in this manner will
stand for years, but it is necessary to repair the roof every autumn.
When a poor-class house is carried more than one story high, the upper
stories, often projecting beyond the lower, are framed with wooden
beams--poplar--and the interspaces filled in with sun-dried bricks,
making a wall one brick thick. The builder never trusts to the lower
wall alone to support a second or third story, but invariably fixes
uprights of wood in the ground against the wall to support the first
floor. This may be because the extra stories have been added on as
the need for more space became urgent. In the older houses the walls
are rarely perpendicular, but bulge and lean in all sorts of dreadful
ways. If a house seems inclined to tumble over on one side, several
extra props of wood are fixed under it. Sometimes an unusual amount
of rain in the autumn will wash a house down, and not infrequently an
earthquake will shake one to pieces. But considering how they are
built, and what they look like, it is astonishing how long they stand.

In the better class houses, built of brick, there is not so much need
of the wooden uprights, though even in these you generally see them.
The walls of these better houses are some of them very thick: this is
the case when they are from the commencement intended to be more than
one story high. The house that I lived in in Kabul, after I returned
from Turkestan, was one of the better class. It was arranged in two
wings at right angles to one another, and was two stories high. It
was built of brick coated with mud and chopped straw. The lower walls
were about four feet thick and the upper about two feet. Nevertheless,
wooden uprights supported the upper floor where I lived. Below were
the stables, the kitchen, and the servants’ quarters. I noticed in
the stable that one of the walls bulged alarmingly, so that I did not
feel any too comfortable when an earthquake--a common phenomenon in
Kabul--shook the house. The sensation produced by a slight earthquake
is somewhat similar to that produced when you are standing on the
platform of a small station and an express comes rushing through.
There is not so much noise, but the shaking is very similar. A severe
earthquake is very different. It commences mildly, and you think it
will stop soon--but it does not: it becomes worse and worse, the beams
creak, the windows and doors rattle, the house rocks, and you wonder
what is coming next. If it is daytime you escape from the house; if it
is night, and in the winter, with three feet of snow outside, you wait
for further developments, hoping your house will not fall on top of you.

[Sidenote: The Warming of the House.]

The houses, being built in this way with thick non-conducting walls and
roof, are wonderfully cool in spite of the intense heat of the sun in
summer. They should be equally warm in the winter, but, unfortunately,
the windows and doors never fit properly. There is no paint on the
woodwork, for paint is far too expensive to be used in such a wholesale
way, and the heat and dryness of the summer make great cracks appear.
Except in the Amîr’s palaces there are no latches to the doors such
as we have. The doors and windows are fastened by a chain which hooks
on to a staple. The windows of a room occupy nearly the whole of the
wall on the garden side of the room; and as passages are rare--one room
opening into another--there are two or more doors to each room. The
number and variety of draughts, therefore, can be imagined; so that
with the thermometer at zero, or below, it is utterly impossible to
keep a room warm with a wood fire in the fireplace--even if you have a
fireplace, which is unusual.

The Afghans do not attempt to keep the room warm. They keep themselves
warm, however, by means of the “sandali.” An iron pot or brazier is
placed in the middle of the room and filled with glowing charcoal.
Among poorer people simply a shallow hole is scraped in the earth of
the floor, and in this the charcoal is put. A large wooden stool is
placed over the charcoal and covered by a very large cotton-wool quilt,
or rezai. The people sit on the ground round the sandali, pulling the
quilt up to their chin. A big postîn over the shoulders keeps the back
warm, and the turban is always kept on the head. In the winter there is
not much work done, and the people sit by the sandali most of the day.
Supposing you make a call, you find them, masters and servants (all
men, of course), sitting round the sandali chatting together or playing
cards or chess. The ladies have their own sandali in the harem--you
don’t see them. Everyone rises as you enter, and room is politely made
for you at the sandali. One of the servants goes off to prepare tea,
making the water hot in the samovar. Another makes ready the chillim,
or hubble-bubble. The tray is brought in with an embroidered teacloth
over it, covering teapot, cups and saucers, and sugar-basin. The
servant places the tray on the floor and kneels down by the side of it,
folding up the cloth for a tea cosy. It is not etiquette for a servant
to sit crossed-legged in the presence of a visitor or a superior. In
the privacy of their own homes etiquette is, however, considerably
remitted. He puts two or three big lumps of sugar into the cup and
pours out the tea, breaking up the sugar with a spoon. He gets up and
hands you the cup and saucer with both hands. To use one hand would
be a rudeness. No milk or cream is drank with the tea, except in the
occasional cup of “kaimagh-chai.”

You must drink two cups of this sweet tea--it is flavoured with
cardamoms--and half a cup of tea without any sugar--“chai-i-talkh”--this
is to correct the sweetness. If you make two or three calls in an
afternoon, you feel it is as much as you can bear. In Afghanistan you
may call upon a man whenever you like, but you must not leave his
house without asking permission. I told them that in my country it was
different: people were not allowed to call upon us without invitation,
and they could go away as soon as they pleased. The Afghans seemed
to think this was very discourteous, for they are nothing if not

[Sidenote: The Bath House.]

All the larger houses have rooms for the Afghan bath; there is the
bath-room proper, and a small dressing-room. It is not a hot dry-air
bath like the Turkish bath, but a hot moist air, so that the heat is
never so great as in the Turkish bath. The walls are cemented, and
the floor either cemented or paved with an inferior marble that is
plentiful near Kabul. The cement is made of equal parts of wood-ashes
and lime moistened and beaten together for some days. In a recess in
one wall is a cistern or tank of stone or cement, with a fireplace
beneath it, which is fed from the stokehole outside the bath-room.
Public bath-rooms are quite an institution in Afghanistan. They are
rented by a bath-man or barber, who makes what he can out of them.
Some of the bath-houses belong to the Amîr. The bath is by no means
an expensive luxury: the poorer people pay about a halfpenny. Richer
people who engage the services of the bath-man or barber to shampoo
them, pay about eighteenpence. The plan I adopted was to engage the
bath-room and the shampooer for the day. It cost but a few shillings.

Having sent word a day or two beforehand, I used to start about ten
o’clock in the morning, accompanied by all my Afghan servants,
bringing bath-towel, soap and comb. It is the custom in Afghanistan
when the master has engaged the bath-room, for the Afghan servant to
seize the opportunity of having a free bath. Hindustani servants in
Kabul do not presume to accompany the Sahib on such an occasion. The
outside appearance of the bath-house is not very inviting. As a rule,
there is a large pool of stagnant water near by--the waste water of
the bath--and you dismount in a hesitating way. When you get into the
small dark unpaved entry, and slip about on the mud, the inclination is
to turn round and go out again. However, having got so far, you think
you may as well face it out. You find the dressing-room clean and dry,
and the bath proprietor (or tenant rather) comes out to receive you.
He is dressed--or undressed--ready to shampoo you, his only garment
being a waist-cloth. The servants pull off your boots, and help you to
get ready, and then fix a waist-cloth, which reaches the knees, very
tightly round the waist, fastening it with a particular twist. The
bath-man taking your hand, raises the curtain over the arched door of
the bath-room, and leads you carefully in. The reason is that the floor
being very smooth and wet, you are exceedingly likely, without great
care, to have a dangerous fall. When you enter, the air being damp as
well as hot, you feel almost suffocated.

[Sidenote: The Process of the Bath.]

A good class bath-room is generally octagonal, with a vaulted and
groined roof, not much decorated, but displaying a certain amount of
taste in the building. The windows are arched and glazed, and very
small, so that the room is rather dark. The Afghan servants quickly
follow you in, attired in the same way as yourself, and though they
treat you with due respect, all seem for the time, more or less, on an
equality, and as they dash the water over each other, they chat and
laugh quite unrestrainedly. The process of massage, or shampooing,
which the bath-men thoroughly understand, is rather a long one; and
it is not at all uncommon when bathing to spend a great part of the
day--four or five hours--in the bath-room. For myself, I found two
hours quite as much as I wanted. A cloth is folded up for a pillow, and
you lie on a warm part of the marble, or cement floor. You generally
see, at first with some disgust, a few large long-legged ants, running
quickly about near the walls: afterwards you become indifferent, for,
as the bath-man says, they are harmless, they don’t sting. There are
such swarms of insects of all kinds in the East, that you divide them
roughly into those that sting and those that don’t. The latter you take
no notice of, the former you treat with more respect. The shampooer,
having dashed on a little warm water, begins by stretching and kneading
the skin of one arm, the rubbing being done in the direction of the
blood current; the knuckles of the fingers he cracks with a sudden
jerk. Then he goes to the other arm. Having treated all the limbs
the same way, he places his two hands on the sides of the chest, and
suddenly throws his whole weight on to them, which stretches the skin,
and compressing the ribs, drives out the air from the chest with a
grunt and gasp. Then he kneads and rubs the muscles of the chest,
shoulders, and body. After that he brings you into sitting posture, and
fixing you with his knee, he seizes one shoulder and twists you round
as far as you can go, and with a sudden jerk in the same direction he
makes the back-bone crack. A similar twisting is done the other way
round. He then takes a coarse flesh glove and proceeds to rasp your
skin off. The more he can get off, the better pleased he is. They left
me the first time with a “fox bite” on the chest, which lasted for
days. On subsequent occasions I called attention to the fact that I
was an Englishman and not a cast-iron Afghan. After the flesh glove,
come two courses of “soaping”--how it smarts! hot water being dashed
on at frequent intervals. The Afghan shoe leaving a part of the instep
exposed, the skin becomes thick and coarse, and a piece of pumice stone
is used to scrub the feet with. This, after all the rest, was too much
for me, and I rebelled, excusing myself by explaining that my life was
of value to the Amîr on account of the number of sick poor in the city.

[Sidenote: The Lack of Ventilation.]

Finally you stand up, and two or three bucketfuls of hot water are
thrown over your head. Your servant then comes up, wraps you in a
bath-towel, and you go off to the dressing-room. There are no velvet
couches to lie on, so you proceed to rub down and dress: then tea is
brought, you have a cigarette, and ride languidly home. The Afghan bath
is an excellent institution for cleanliness in a hot climate, but it
certainly is neither exhilarating nor stimulating. There is little or
no arrangement made for ventilating the bath-room, and it is customary,
in the bitter cold of a Kabul winter, for poor people to obtain
permission to sleep there at night. It is a not uncommon occurrence for
one or two to be found suffocated in the morning.




    The unpopular Governor and his toothache. The meeting in the Erg
    Bazaar. Appearance of the Kabul Bazaars. The shops and their
    contents. Boots, shoes, and cobblers. Copper workers. The tinning
    of cooking pots. Impromptu tobacco pipes. Tobacco smoking by
    the Royal Family. Silk and cotton. “Bargaining.” “Restaurants.”
    Tea drinking. Confectioners. The baker’s oven. Flour mills. The
    butcher’s shop. Postîns and their cost. Furs. Ironmongers. Arms.
    “The German sword.” The Afghan tulwar. Rifles and pistols. Bows.
    Silver and gold-smiths. Caps and turbans. Embroidery. Grocers: tea,
    sugar, soap, and candles, and where they come from. Fruiterers.
    Tailors. “The Railway Guard.” Costume of the Kabuli townsmen.
    Personal effect of the Amîr on costume. Drug shops.

One day soon after I arrived in Kabul the Governor of the city--the
notorious Naib Mir Sultan--of whom I shall have more to say later,
sent to say he was very ill. He had been suffering for days from an
agonizing toothache. I was advised not to visit the Naib because he
was not in favour with the Prince. I therefore sent him some medicine
and directed the Armenian interpreter to go, and if he found a decayed
tooth to introduce a small pellet of cotton wool soaked in creosote. A
day or two after, as I was returning from the hospital, I met the Naib
in one of the bazaars. He was surrounded by a guard of the military
police, whose Chief he was, and by a great crowd of servants. At that
time he was execrated in Kabul. He did not, however, look very evil. He
had a dark skin but not a disagreeable face. I enquired how he was, and
he said the pain had entirely left him. He dismounted, and I examined
the tooth in the street. It was decayed and the socket inflamed. I
wanted to pull it out there and then with my fingers, but he would not
let me touch it.

[Sidenote: The Appearance of the Kabul Bazaars.]

The bazaar in which I met the Naib is a modern one built by the present
Amîr, the street is wider and the shops are better built than those of
the other bazaars.

There are three chief bazaars or streets of shops in Kabul. Two lead
from the direction of the workshop gorge eastward through the town.
One running near the foot of the mountains to the Bala Hissar, and the
other near the middle of the town. These two are for a considerable
distance broader, better paved, and more carefully roofed than the
others. In the best part the houses are two stories high. They are flat
topped, and beams supporting a roof to the bazaar extend across from
house to house. In other parts, where the houses are but one story,
the bazaar is not roofed in. The other chief bazaar extends from a
strong wooden bridge over the Kabul river, southward through the middle
of the town. This too is roofed over in a part of its course, but it
is neither so broad nor so carefully built as the others. There are
a few smaller bazaars and many narrow streets or passages striking
off in different directions from the others. They are badly paved,
undrained, and exceedingly dirty. The shops are small and open, like
stalls, with no front window. The floor of each is raised three or four
feet above the street, and the shopkeeper sits cross-legged among his
goods. At night he closes his shop with shutters, fastening the last
shutter with a chain and a curious cylindrical padlock. Some parts of
the bazaars are reserved for the sale or manufacture of particular
articles. There is, for instance, the shoe bazaar. This is in the
street leading from the wooden bridge south. The Afghan shoes are of
heavy make, are sewn with strips of leather and have the pointed toe
turned upwards. Some are elaborately embroidered with gold. The women’s
shoes or slippers are generally green in colour, and are made with a
high heel. They are almost sandals, having an upper only at the toe.
They are awkward things to walk in, I have noticed, for they drop at
the heel at every step. The native shoes are those most on show, but
one can buy English boots of all kinds, from the elaborate patent
leather of Northampton to the three-and-sixpenny army boot. There are
also long Russian boots made of beautifully soft leather: these are
the fashion among the highest class; and a cheaper Turkoman boot of a
similar shape with a high heel that cavalry soldiers who can afford
the luxury invest in. A shopkeeper is, however, none too ready to show
you his best goods. He does not exhibit them in the shop, for the
Government officials have a way of buying anything that takes their
fancy at their own price.

I noticed in the boot bazaar that in the three-foot space under the
floor of the shop the poorer men, the cobblers, did their business.
There was just room to sit, and there the cobbler sat stitching, with
his nose on a level with the knees of the passers by. A customer with a
shoe to mend squats down beside him and gives his orders. Cobblers who
can’t afford to rent even such a “shop” as this, sit by the roadside
in the shade of a wall or a tree and carry on their business.

[Sidenote: Copper Workers: Tinning of Copper Pots.]

There is a copper bazaar. Though copper is found in Afghanistan, most
of that used comes from India. This bazaar is in the street running
east through the middle of the city. Here, there is shop after shop
of men hammering out copper into the different shaped utensils: the
long necked vase for the chillim, or hubble-bubble pipe: bowls and
pots for cooking kettles: water vases with long neck and handle and
tapering curved spout. The shapes are all those made by their fathers
and forefathers; there is no new design invented. The pots used for
cooking are tinned over inside and out. Supposing the tin has worn off
your cooking pots, you send to the bazaar for one of these men. It is
interesting to watch how he sets to work.

He brings a pair of hand-bellows with him and a stick of tin. Settling
himself on the ground in the garden he digs a shallow hole six or seven
inches across. This is to be his furnace. From it he leads a little
trench about six inches long, which he covers over with clay, placing
his finger in the trench as he moulds each piece of clay over it.
Thus he has a pipe leading to his furnace. The nozzle of his bellows
is fitted into the distal end of the pipe. He begs a little lighted
charcoal from the cook with which to start his “furnace,” piles it
over with black charcoal, blows his bellows, and soon has what fire he
wants. A small boy with him having cleaned the pots with mud and sand,
he places the first one, supported on three stones, over his furnace.
When it is at the proper heat he rubs it round with a rag smeared with
wood ashes, touches it with the stick of tin, then rubs it round again
with his wood ashes, and the pot is tinned. If you are watching him he
may make it extra superfine with another touch of tin and another rub
with the wood ashes, and so he goes on till he has finished them all.

[Sidenote: Tobacco Smoking by the Royal Family.]

Supposing the pot to be tinned is a large one, the small boy, having
thrown in the mud and sand, stands inside the pot, and jerking it round
and round with his hands, cleans it with his bare feet. Describing the
way that the “furnace” is made reminds me that I have seen men prepare
an impromptu tobacco pipe the same way. The principle is exactly the
same, only instead of blowing air through the pipe they suck the smoke
from the tobacco which they have lit with a match. To lie on your
face on the ground in order to get a smoke seems rather excessive,
but if a man has tobacco, a match, and cannot get a pipe, this is one
way out of the difficulty. I have also seen a soldier use his bayonet
for a pipe. He filled the cylindrical part that fits on the muzzle of
the rifle with tobacco, and having put a lighted match on the top, he
fitted his two hands round the lower end and sucked the smoke between
them. Most Afghans are inveterate smokers. The tobacco they smoke is
not the American tobacco that we have. It grows in Kabul, Kandahar,
Herat, and many parts of Afghanistan, but the best comes from Persia.
The leaf is paler, apparently uncured and is not pressed, nor cut,
but simply broken up. I have smoked it, but it is very hot in a short
pipe. It smokes best in the chillim. The Amîr himself when he smokes,
which is not often, generally has a Turkish cigarette. The eldest
Prince, Habibullah, smokes cigars from India. Prince Usuf, the Amîr’s
uncle, one of the younger sons of Amîr Dost Mahomed, smokes American
birdseye tobacco. He is a courtly old gentleman, dresses exceedingly
well, and is of the bluest of the blue blood, and it strikes one as
very incongruous to see him puffing away at a short clay pipe; he never
smokes anything else.

There is the cotton and silk bazaar in the street leading from the
gorge to the Bala Hissar. The shops here are mostly kept by Hindus.
Every Hindu in Kabul, and there is quite a colony of them, has to pay a
poll tax, and is not allowed to wear a blue turban. It must be either
yellow or red--generally they wear red.

Besides the rolls of silk from India and Bokhara, and the plain and
printed cotton goods which come from India, there are many English
undergarments to be seen: for English clothing of every kind is very
fashionable among the upper classes in Kabul. There are cotton and
merino vests, socks, and handkerchiefs hanging on strings across the
little shops. The Hindu shopman in Kabul strikes one as oppressively
civil, he “salaams” so low with the hand on the forehead. The Afghan
trader does not. You can buy or not as you please. If he has a piece
with a yard or two more than you want, often he will not cut it for
you. You can take the lot or leave it, he is not particular. But Afghan
and Hindu alike ask you a much higher price than they will afterwards

If you want to buy anything, you send for a shopkeeper to your house
and ask his price. He tells you. You smile derisively, and offer him
just a third. He is pained, he is indignant, the thing is absurd, he
gave a great deal more than that himself. You say, “Good morning.”
Then he says--Well, he will do what he can, for you are a friend to
the poor, but it will be a dead loss to him; and he knocks a little
off his price. You say, “No,” but add a little on to yours, and so
it goes on for a variable time, derision and sarcasm on your side--a
pained indignation on his. Finally, he takes less than half of what he
asked originally, and is well paid then; but when he goes away you feel
rather as if you had swindled the poor man.

Though shopkeepers in Kabul selling similar goods tend to congregate
in the same bazaar, they do not do so to the same degree as in some of
the towns of India. You find boot shops in other streets than the chief
boot bazaar; and so with other goods for sale.

In the tea-drinking shops you see a large samovar, about three feet
high, in one corner, where water is kept boiling hot by the glowing
charcoal in the centre pipe. Men drop in and seat themselves,
cross-legged, for a chat and a cup of tea. The shops will hold some
three or four. The Afghans like their tea very hot, weak, very sweet,
and flavoured with cardamoms, which are put unpowdered into the teapot.
They pay a pice, that is a little less than a farthing, for a cup of
tea. If a man has some tea with him, and he often has, he can always
send to one of these shops for a teapot and hot water. He pays a pice
for it. There is also a preparation they call “kaimagh-chai,” but this
is comparatively expensive, and is drunk only at festivals or times of
rejoicing. It is a mixture of tea, sugar, cream, soda, and cardamoms.
It is thick, curdy, pink, and very sweet--not at all bad to taste, but
very “rich.” The teapots, cups, and saucers in use are generally from
Russia. Some of the richer men have them from China or Japan.

[Sidenote: The Kabul Restaurant.]

Besides the tea-drinking shops there are the eating-houses. These have
no marble-topped tables or velvet-covered chairs. The shop is the same
as any other shop, except that it looks rather dirtier, probably from
the amount of fat or oil used in the cooking. The customer carries his
lunch away with him, or stands outside to eat it. The space inside
the shop is taken up by the cook and the cooking pots. They sell
kabobs--little cubes of meat skewered on a long stick and grilled over
charcoal. A stick of kabobs, with some bread, is uncommonly good if you
are hungry; you tear the meat off the stick with your fingers. They
have also meat, finely minced and mixed with fat, which they squeeze in
their hand round a thin stick and cook over charcoal. It looks rather
like sausage, I don’t know what it is called. They use any kind of meat
for this--mutton--or, failing that, the flesh of the camel or horse
that age or infirmity has rendered unfit for further service. There
are many kinds of pilau too. Rice, boiled skilfully till every grain
is soft without being soppy, is piled over the meat, stewed to such
tenderness that you can easily tear a piece off with the fingers. There
are chicken pilau, mutton pilau, sweet pilau with raisins in it, and
so on. Kourma is another dish--meat stewed in small pieces and eaten
with stewed fruit.

For his pudding the Afghan goes to another shop, the confectioner’s.
Here there are sweets of many kinds: sugared almonds, “cocoa-nut
ice,” sweets made in the shape of rings, sticks, animals, or men;
gingerbread, soft puddings made of Indian corn, much sweetened. In the
summer different kinds of iced sherbet, lemon, orange, or rose are sold
in the street.

In the bread shop, the baker squatting on the floor kneads out the
dough into large flat cakes and claps it in his oven. The oven is a
large clay jar about three feet across and three feet deep, with the
neck a foot in diameter. This is buried beneath the shop, the mouth
being level with the floor, and is packed round with earth. It is
heated by making a fire inside. When the heat is sufficient, and the
fire has burnt out, the baker puts his hand in the mouth and flaps the
flat doughy cake against the wall of the oven, where it sticks. When
baked, it generally brings away some grains of charcoal or grit with
it. You pay two pice (a little less than a halfpenny) for a cake of
bread a foot and a-half long, a foot wide, and an inch thick.

Flour is ground in a water mill. A hut is built by the side of some
stream which has a sufficient fall. The water pours down a slanting
trough over the water wheel, and turns two circular flat stones which
are arranged horizontally in the hut. The miller, squatting down,
throws the grain into an aperture in the upper wheel and scoops up the
flour as it is ground away from between the stones on to the floor.
The bread made from the flour varies very much in grittiness, some is
hardly at all gritty. The Afghans are very particular about eating
their bread hot, they don’t care to eat it cold unless they are on a
journey. One of their proverbs is, “Hot bread and cold water are the
bounteous gifts of God,” “Nan i gurrum wa ab i khunuk Niamati Illahist.”

[Sidenote: The Butcher’s Shop.]

Butchers’ shops are not very common; meat is an expensive luxury.
Mutton is the usual meat eaten. By very poor people other meats are
sometimes eaten, especially in the form of mince. In the latter case
it is impossible to say what the meat is, so the impecunious Afghan
assumes it to be mutton. If there is any meat in the mince that is
unclean--on the shopkeeper’s head be it for selling anything “nujis” to
a True Believer.

There is very little meat to be seen hanging in the shops, for the
climate being a hot one and flies numerous, the meat will not keep more
than a few hours. What the joints are it is impossible to say, for
they cut the sheep up quite differently from an English butcher. At
one time I used to try and puzzle out when the joint came to the table
what it was: I gave up the attempt afterwards as futile. The mutton is
excellent in quality and very cheap. I wished to give a dinner one day
to a dozen Afghans--the Amîr’s palanquin bearers. I bought a sheep for
4s. 6d., some rice, butter, bread, and firewood, and the whole cost
less than 6s.

Kabul is famous all over Central Asia for the manufacture of the
postîn or sheepskin pelisse. While riding along the bazaar running
from the wooden bridge south, I used to wonder at one place what the
faint disagreeable smell was due to. I found on enquiry that there
was a manufactory of postîns there. I have not seen the whole process
of tanning. The skin of the sheep or lamb with the wool on it is
cleaned and scraped, then soaked in the river and pegged out in the
sun to dry; afterwards it is tanned yellow with pomegranate rind. The
leather is beautifully soft, and it is usually embroidered artistically
with yellow silk. The wool is, of course, worn inside. The better
ones are trimmed at the collar and cuffs with astrakhan. There are
several different kinds of sheepskin postîns. The long one reaching
from shoulder to ankle, with ample folds that you wrap yourself up in
on a winter night: there is nothing more cosy and warm to sleep in.
The sleeves are very long and are more for ornament than use. These
are but little embroidered, they cost from fifteen to thirty rupees.
There is a short one with sleeves, which is elaborately embroidered.
This is worn in the winter by the soldiers--cavalrymen, for instance,
if they can afford the necessary ten or fifteen rupees. Similar but
cheaper ones with less beautiful wool and no embroidery, can be bought
for four or five rupees. There is the waistcoat postîn of lamb’s
wool, which is made without sleeves, this costs two rupees six annas
Kabuli, or half-a-crown English. These waistcoat postîns and the long
sleeping postîns are used by all classes, rich and poor. The others
are used only by the poorer classes, the peasants and the soldiers. A
gentleman or a man of position would no more think of putting one on,
were it ever so beautiful and elaborate in its embroidery, than would
a resident of the west of London think of appearing in the “pearlies”
and velvet embroidered coat of the coster. The rich men wear, in the
winter, coats of cashmere, velvet or cloth, lined with beautiful furs
from Bokhara and other parts of Asiatic Russia.

[Sidenote: Furs: Their Cost.]

The most valuable fur that is imported I have not seen, only the Amîr
wears it, and he rarely; from the description they gave me I conclude
it is sable. The next most valuable is the “Khuz,” a species of Marten.
There are two kinds, the Khuz i Zulmati, which is dark, and the Khuz i
Mahtabi, which is much lighter and of an inferior quality. These can
be bought sewn together in the sheet, either with or without the tails
of the animals attached. There were twenty-four skins in the sheet I
bought. The shopman asked £10 for it, but he let me have it the next
day for £6.

Then there is the “Altai,” a beautiful fur taken from the inner side
of the leg of the red fox. A sheet consists of many pieces, each with
a deep black centre surrounded by a dark red margin. I bought one in
Turkestan for £6, which I was told was cheap. Squirrel fur made into
the sheet, with or without tails, either grey or grey and white, is
very popular. It is called “Sinjab,” and is less expensive than the
others. There are several other cheaper furs--a white one they call cat
skin--though of what cat I do not know, the fur of it soon rubs off;
and a short brown fur, the name of which I never heard. Astrakhan, of
which the Amîr has the monopoly, is exported largely to Russia and in
small quantities to India. It is used chiefly to cover the round or
straight-sided Russian hats that Afghan Colonels and Captains wear. It
is difficult to get hold of any in the Kabul bazaars.

In the ironmongers’ shops are nails, hammers, locks, knives, and
horse-shoes. The last are made broad, flat, and rather thin, in the
Russian style. I was told that this pattern is considered to protect
the frog of the horse’s foot from the numerous stones and pebbles he
has to go over on a journey. Shoes in the English pattern are more
expensive. I heard that the Amîr had imposed a small tax on the sale of

[Sidenote: Weapons: Their Nature.]

In the “arms” shops are swords, guns, and pistols of various kinds.
There is the curved “shamshir,” or scimitar, with a cross hilt. Most
of these come, Mr. Pyne told me, from Birmingham, some, I suppose,
from Germany. They can be tied in a knot if necessary. The Armenian
interpreter one day brought me a sword to examine; he was thinking of
buying it for eight rupees. It looked like an English sword, and was
brightly burnished. I put the point on the ground and bent the sword to
try its spring. It seemed easy to bend. I raised it up and it remained
in the position to which I had bent it.

“Wah!” said the Armenian, “and he is English sword!”

“Oh, no,” I said, “German.”

Then I had to explain where Germany was. But I don’t know, it may have
been English; I hope not. I advised him not to buy it for eight rupees.
He said, “I not have him at one pice.”

There is the straight-pointed Afghan sword, the blade of which broadens
to three inches at the handle. The back from point to handle is
straight and thick. There is no handguard. The best of these are made
in Khost, a frontier district south of the Kurram valley. The blades
are often beautifully damascened, and the handles of ivory or horn are
carved and inlaid with gold or silver or studded with jewels. They
are very sharp, the steel is of good quality, and they are rather
expensive. For one of good quality without a scabbard, and which was
not elaborately ornamented, I gave sixty rupees. I had a scabbard made
in Kabul. The scabbard is made of two long pieces of wood thinned and
hollowed out to receive the sword; these are fastened together and
covered with leather. Formerly they were covered with snake skin. Mine
was covered with patent leather and mounted with silver. I weighed out
rupees to the silversmith, and when the mounts were finished he weighed
them out to me before they were attached to the scabbard. The scabbard
is made longer than is usual in England, for it takes the handle
all but about an inch, as well as the blade of the sword. In these
shops are also rifles for sale--the native jezail with a curved stock
ornamented with ivory, and with a very long barrel fastened on with
many bands. The Afghan hillmen and the Hazaras make these, and they
are good shots with them. They make their own powder also. There are
old-fashioned English rifles, flint locks and hammer locks: some very
heavy, with a two-pronged support hinged on to the barrel, presumably
to rest on the ground and steady the rifle when taking aim; native
pistols and old English pistols of various kinds; old shirts of chain
mail and small shields with bosses on. These are not used now except
for ornament. Lance or spear heads, old Indian and English helmets,
firemen’s helmets; powder flasks made of metal or dried skin; and heavy
tough very strong wooden bows, with a straight handpiece in the middle
of the bow: these were used in the time of Dost Mahomed. I never saw
any arrows, and the bows were sold merely as curiosities. Boys and
lads, now-a-days, use a bow with two strings which are kept apart by a
two-inch prop. They use it to kill birds, shooting small stones from a
strip of leather attached to the two strings.

The silver and goldsmiths make native ornaments similar to those one
sees in India: broad, thin perforated bracelets; studs for the nostril,
that the hillwomen wear--this custom, however, is not so common as
among the Hindus; necklaces of coins and discs, amulet boxes, belt
buckles, and so on. Nothing original or peculiar to Afghanistan seems
to be made.

[Sidenote: Turbans and Caps.]

In the cap shops there are rows of small conical caps, hanging on pegs
and on bars across the top of the shop. The Afghan turban is wound
round the cap which is jammed on the back of the head. If put more
forwards the weight of the turban causes a painful pressure on the

There are several different kinds of caps. The Kabul cap is thickly
quilted with cotton-wool. Inside, at the top, a little roll of paper
enclosed in silk is sewn. This is supposed to have a sentence from
the Koran written on it to protect the wearer from harm. I opened a
roll one day to see what was written, but found the paper blank. The
best caps are embroidered all over with gold thread from Benares. Some
are but little embroidered, have simply a star at the top, and others
not at all. Some are made of velvet, and some of cloth. Those from
Turkestan are not quilted. They are not so heavy as the Kabul caps, are
of very bright colours, and are worn indoors or at night. The caps are
of all prices, from three or four pice to fifteen rupees. The lungis,
or turbans, are also of many different kinds: the commonest being
cotton dyed blue with indigo--these are of native make: or of white
cotton or muslin from India. A better kind are of blue or grey cotton,
embroidered at the ends with gold thread, in wider or narrower bars,
according to the price. These come from Peshawur, and they look very
handsome on a tall dark-skinned Afghan. Others are from Cashmere, most
beautifully embroidered, and are fawn-coloured, turquoise-blue, black,
green, or white. The ordinary length of a lungi is nine yards; the
cashmere, being thicker, are not so long. The only white cashmere lungi
I ever saw was the Amîr’s. He gave it me one day; but that is a story I
will relate further on.

In the cap shops are also Kabul silk handkerchiefs for sale. They are
of beautiful colours--purple, crimson, and green. I do not know what
dyes are used, but they are not fast, they wash out; and the silk is
of poor quality, not to be compared with English or French silk. In
these shops, too, are gold brocades of various kinds, mostly from Delhi
or Agra. Some, however, are made in Kabul, the design being copied
from English or European embroidery that has been imported. Many of
the workers imitate European embroidery with wonderful exactness,
though they do not seem to be able to originate any new designs. If one
bolder than the rest attempts to do so, the design is greatly wanting
in beauty of outline. The brocades are used for tea-cloths, and by the
Amîr and richer men for table-covers. The skill of these men is also
called into use to decorate the dresses of ladies, and the tunics of
pages and gentlemen.

In the grocer’s shop the most prominent things to be seen are the big
loaves of white sugar from India and Austria. The native sugar is made
in small conical loaves--about a pound each. It is very sweet, but
not so white as European sugar. The loaves of native sugar are always
wrapped round with coloured paper--pink, red, or blue--so that the shop
looks quite smart. The tea for sale is chiefly green tea from Bombay.
It is brought by koffla--camel and donkey caravan, from Peshawur
through the Khyber Pass, by the travelling merchants or carriers. Many
of the rich men of Kabul own trains of camels, which they hire out for
carrying purposes. There is black tea also, but in small quantities and
expensive. It is said to be brought from China through Asiatic Russia
and Turkestan. The Afghans always call black tea “chai-i-famîl.”

[Sidenote: Lamps, Candles, and Soap.]

The candles are of two kinds, tallow and composite. The tallow are of
native manufacture--dips--with cotton wick. They are not used very
much, as they gutter and melt away very quickly. There is a much better
tallow candle made in Afghan Turkestan, thicker than the Kabul candle,
which burns exceedingly well. The composite candles are much more
popular, and are not very expensive. They come from Bombay or Peshawur,
and are used largely by the Amîr and the richer men. The poorer people
use an oil lamp, very much the shape of the old Roman lamp. It is of
clay or terra-cotta, saucer-shaped, with or without a handle, and with
a spout. The cotton wick floats in the oil, and extends a quarter of
an inch beyond the spout, where it is lighted. The oil they use is, I
believe, almond oil: it is called “Têl-i-kûnjit.” It has a smoky flame,
and gives a poor light. Some lamps on the same principle are larger,
elaborately made of brass, and hang by chains from the ceiling; they
have four or five wicks. Others, also with three or four wicks, are
made of tinned iron; they stand on the ground supported on an upright
about a foot high. Paraffin oil from Bombay can also be bought, and
some of the richer men occasionally use cheap paraffin lamps “made in

Soap is both native and imported. The native is in saucer-shaped lumps.
It is not used for washing the hands and face--an Afghan rarely uses
soap for this purpose; but for washing clothes or harness. It is rather
alkaline and caustic. A soap “plant,” with its tanks, has been erected
in the workshops, and doubtless when the working of it is better
understood the soap will be of usable quality. At present it does not
sell. Other soap in the form of tablets is imported from India, Russia,
and Austria. By what route it comes from Austria I do not know, unless,
like so many cheap German goods, it comes through India. Russian soap
is the cheapest and worst, it crumbles up in your hands the second time
you use it. Next is the Austrian, which is not at all bad; the best and
most expensive is the English. The native salt--powdered rock salt,
pinkish in colour--is not very good. You have to use so much before you
can taste it. I don’t think any salt is imported. Spices of most kinds
can be bought--pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and so on; but these are bought
at drug shops.

Fruit shops are in great numbers, for fruit and vegetables form
important items in the diet of the poorer people: in the summer fresh
fruit and vegetables, and in the winter dried fruits, particularly the
mulberry, are largely used. The fruit shops are, as a rule, arranged
very tastefully. Grapes of different kinds are in great quantities and
exceedingly cheap--a donkey load for a rupee. Melons and water melons,
apples, quinces, pomegranates, pears, and various kinds of plums,
nectarines, peaches, and apricots. Dried fruits, almonds, roasted peas,
pistachio nuts, dried mulberries, apricots, and raisins, are sold by
the grocers. Fresh fruit, as soon as it is ripe, and even before, is
eaten in large quantities, far more than is good for the health of the

The Englishmen in Kabul had to be exceedingly careful in eating fruit.
Unless taken in very small quantities it produced, or predisposed to,
troublesome bowel affections. The natives, though, as a rule, not so
susceptible as the English, were affected in the same way, sometimes
dangerously, occasionally fatally.

[Sidenote: Tailors. “The Railway Guard” Costume.]

In a tailor’s shop you see one man sitting on the ground hard at
work with a sewing-machine, another cutting out or stitching. There
are no ready made clothes in a tailor’s shop, these are to be bought
elsewhere. A rich man has, as a rule, a tailor attached to his
establishment. Those less rich having procured their material send
for a tailor from the bazaar. He cuts out the material in front of
the employer and takes away the garment to his shop to make up. This
is a check upon the tailor, so that there can be no purloining of
material. Ready-made clothes, new or secondhand, are for sale in many
shops. English coats of all kinds sell readily, especially old military
uniforms. One day a man walked into the hospital evidently thinking
himself rather smart. For the moment I was startled: I thought he was
an Englishman. He was dressed in the complete costume of a railway

The costume of the hillmen and peasants is the same as that worn by
the Khyberi Pathans, which I have described. An Afghan in typical
native town costume--say a mirza, or clerk--is dressed somewhat more
carefully than the Pathan. He wears the loose oriental trousers, or
pyjamas, gathered in at the waist and hanging in multitudinous folds
draping from the hip to the inner side of the knee and ankle, the band
at the ankle fitting somewhat closely. The native shoes with turned
up pointed toes are worn without socks, that is, unless the wearer
is wealthy. The embroidered camise, or shirt, falls over the pyjamas
nearly to the knee. A waistcoat with sleeves is worn reaching a little
below the waist and slit at the hip. Finally, a loose robe or coat
worn unfastened and with long sleeves, reaches midway between the knee
and ankle. The waistcoat is of velvet or cloth, quilted and generally
embroidered with gold. The coat is of thinner material, and, as a
rule, of native cloth. The townsmen, however, generally, though not
always, modify the native costume with European innovations. As a rule
the higher they rise in the social scale the more Europeanized they
become--in costume if in little else. The Afghans, though invariably
spoken of as religious fanatics, are far less “conservative” than the
Mahomedans of India. You never see one of the latter with an English
hat on: a very great many refuse to adopt even European boots. In
Afghanistan the readiness to become Europeanized, at any rate in
appearance, probably depends upon the personal influence of the Amîr.
After European weapons and knives--these are readily adopted by all
who can afford them--the first thing taken is the belt with a buckle,
instead of the cummerbund or waistshawl. It is, however, open to
question whether this innovation is an improvement, for in a climate
with such great variations of temperature as that of Afghanistan the
cummerbund is an excellent protection to the abdominal organs. Socks
are readily adopted even by the conservative. Then come European
coats, which are worn by a great many of the townsmen. After the
coats, European boots. Trousers are worn, as a rule, only by the
upper classes, including the court pages and by some of the soldiers.
They are made somewhat loosely and are worn over the pyjamas. When
a gentleman or Khan arrives at home after the business of the day
is finished, he throws off his European garb and appears in native
costume. First, the belt and tunic are removed, and he dons the loose
robe. Then his boots and trousers, and he can curl his legs up under
him once more in the comfortable Oriental way, as he sits on his carpet
or cushions on the floor. To sit on a chair for any length of time
tires an Oriental very much more than a European can realize.

Finally, English felt hats, or solar helmets, are worn by the more
liberal minded, or those who are more ready to imitate the Amîr.
Russian astrakhan hats, semiglobular shape, and those wider at the
top, have been worn for many years by gentlemen and officers in the
army. This was not such a striking innovation, for the somewhat similar
Turkoman hat of astrakhan has been familiar to the Afghan for ages.

[Sidenote: Drugs.]

In the drug shops are native drugs for sale. Some few English drugs can
be bought: quinine, of which the Afghans are beginning to realize the
value; and chloral hydrate, of which some are beginning to learn the
fascination. The native drugs are such as manna, camphor, castor oil,
and purgative seeds of various kinds.




    Sir S. Pyne’s adventure in the Kabul river. The Tower on the
    bank. Minars of Alexander. Mahomedan Mosques. The cry of the
    Priest. Prayers and Religious Processions. Afghan conception of
    God. Religious and non-Religious Afghans. The schoolhouse and the
    lessons. Priests. Sêyids: descendants of the Prophet. The lunatic
    Sêyid. The Hafiz who was fined. The Dipsomaniac. The Valet who
    was an assassin. A strangler as a Valet. The Chief of the Police
    and his ways. Danger of prescribing for a prisoner. “The Thing
    that walks at night.” The end of the Naib. Death-bed services.
    Graves and graveyards. Tombs. The Governor of Bamian. Courtship
    and weddings among the Afghans. The formal proposal by a Superior
    Officer. The wedding of Prince Habibullah. Priests as healers of
    the sick. The “faith cure.” Charms. The “Evil Eye.” Dreadful fate
    of the boy who was impudent. Ghosts.

[Sidenote: Adventure in the Kabul River.]

When we had been in Kabul about a fortnight, His Highness the Amîr
nearly lost the services of Mr. Pyne. It occurred in this way. We
were riding along the lanes around Kabul, accompanied by a guard of
troopers, and Mr. Pyne was lamenting that he had drank _water_ for
lunch. “There it was,” he said, “still deadly chill.” He certainly
had water enough and to spare very shortly after. He had galloped
on a little ahead towards the river, and when we turned the corner
expecting to catch sight of him, he was nowhere to be seen. The Kabul
river, swollen by rains and melting snow, was roaring and foaming by. I
galloped along the bank expecting to see him. Hearing a shout, I looked
back and saw one of the sowars, who was some yards behind me, jump off
his horse and run to the bank, which was here some three or four feet
above the river. I sprang off my horse and ran up just in time to see
Pyne dragged out, dripping, by the lash of the soldier’s whip.

He was galloping, he said, along the path on the river bank when
he came to a place where the bank was lower and the river partly
overflowed it. Never thinking but what there was firm bottom he did not
stop, and down his horse sunk till Pyne was up to his armpits in water,
icy cold. The next minute the current swept him off, and he found
himself under water near his horse’s heels, with the animal striking
out violently in its endeavour to swim out. He came to the surface and
tried to swim to the bank, but his arm caught in the rein and he and
his horse were swept together to the middle of the stream. He got clear
of the rein by sinking, and struck for the bank again, but found the
current turned his head up stream. Meanwhile, his riding boots became
filled with water, and his turban and clothes soaked. The current swept
him along, but by violent exertion he reached the bank, here four or
five feet high, caught at a root and shouted. The root was torn out,
and again he was swept into midstream: things now seemed to be getting
serious. He saw two men wrestling on the bank, and a priest on a tower
calling people to prayer, but no one would look round at him. With the
heavy turban weighing him down, and wet clothes impeding his action, he
could with difficulty keep his head above water. His breath was going,
and his muscles aching when he once more got under the bank. He saw me
go galloping by, and shouted. The sowar who was near heard the shout,
saw him, jumped off his horse, and threw him the lash of his whip.

Just under the bank his feet touched the bottom, and he stood up to his
neck in water, holding on to the whip and panting to get enough breath
to scramble up the bank. He was hauled out, dripping, and then we
looked round for the horse. The poor brute was struggling and snorting,
and being rapidly carried along midstream. Pyne ran along the bank and
called to him. The animal turned his head, pricked up his ears, and
struck vigorously for the shore. He reached the bank, and with two or
three violent plunges scrambled up to dry land.

Pyne did not tell me all this on the river bank, for we mounted at
once and galloped off to the workshops, so that he could get into dry
clothes; then I heard the whole story.

No evil resulted, but the soldiers of the guard were informed that if
Mr. Pyne had been drowned, their lives would have been forfeited--a
strong inducement to a “guard” to be watchful and attentive.

I mentioned a “priest on a tower calling people to prayer.” There are
several towers round about Kabul, mostly to the north-west of the city.
They are not of great height, and I doubt if they were built originally
for religious minarets, for they are not attached to any mosque or
musjid. Probably they were originally watch-towers put up by the
peasants to guard their crops and herds from local marauders. On the
mountains near Kabul one sees stupendous minars which were built, it is
said, by Alexander to mark the road through Afghanistan to India. One
of these may be seen from Kabul on the distant peak of a mountain to
the east of the Kabul valley; another can be seen west of Kabul, from
the elevation of the Paghman hills.

[Sidenote: Mahomedan Mosques.]

Mosques, or, as they are called, musjids, are numerous in Kabul. Some
are comparatively large, with a courtyard and a domed roof with a
minaret on each side. These have either a stream of water near, or a
tank or well, for the use of those who come to pray: for Mahomedans
invariably wash hands, feet, and face before they pray, and cleanse
also the nostrils and mouth. There is a rush matting on the floor, and
the worshippers leave their shoes outside, as they do when entering any
house. Inside, the musjid is very empty and bare.

In the west wall is the niche, or mihrab, marking the direction of
Mecca: or the Kibla, so called because of the Kibla or stone of Mahomed
in Mecca, and towards this the worshippers turn their faces when they
pray. In the larger musjids there is also a pulpit or platform with
three steps, called a Mimbar, from which the Imām or preacher recites
his Sabbath oration, Friday being the Sabbath. The Amîr’s new rupee is
stamped on one side with a decorative representation of a musjid with
a three-stepped pulpit inside. At early dawn, and at four other times
during the day, the priest mounts the minaret, and, standing upright,
with his thumbs in his ears and his hands spread out, he utters in a
penetrating falsetto voice the call of the faithful to prayer, “Allah
akbar! Allah akbar, Mahomed Ressul Allah!” and so on. “God is great,
God is great, Mahomed is the Prophet of God. Come to Prayers, Prayers
are better than sleep. Come to salvation, God is great. There is no
god but God.” Then a few people begin to gather in, ten or twelve to a

They stand in a row, their faces towards Mecca, and the priest, having
descended, stands in front of them with his face in the same direction.
The priest recites the prayers, standing, or stooping with his head
bent, kneeling or prostrating himself with his forehead touching the
ground, according to the law of the ceremony. The people imitate the
priest in his motions. They are supposed to repeat the prayers to
themselves, but the prayers are in Arabic, which very few Afghans
understand: so that if they have learnt them by heart they repeat them
simply as a parrot does.

The smaller musjids have no courtyard, they are flat-roofed and open
on one side, the roof being supported on that side by carved wooden
pillars, and the musjid is raised three steps above the street. These
have the mihrab, or altar, but no pulpit, and the minaret is replaced
by a block of stone about a foot square outside the musjid, on which
the priest stands to utter the call to prayer. These, too, have a
stream, a well or tank, or some other water supply for ablution.

So far as I could judge the majority of people do not go to a musjid to
pray except when there is some national calamity, such as a visitation
of cholera. On these occasions they go in procession with bands of
music and flags. I once saw a procession in the distance, but though I
felt some curiosity to see it nearer, I did not thrust myself unduly
forward. There are drawbacks to doing so when Mahomedans are in a
state of religious enthusiasm, for there is the possibility that one of
them, overcome by excess of zeal, might obtain Paradise for himself by
putting a knife into a Feringhi. It was not my ambition to be, in this
way, a stepping-stone to Paradise.

Ordinarily such Afghans as profess religion go through the ceremony of
prayer just where they happen to be when the time of prayer arrives.
There are five periods appointed in the day. The first, just before
sunrise; the second, just after midday; the third, an hour before, and
the fourth, just after sunset; and the fifth, when they can no longer
distinguish a white from a black thread. If they happen to be at Durbar
they withdraw a little from the presence of the Amîr--for His Highness
sits towards the west of the audience chamber--spread their cloaks
or coats in lieu of “praying carpets,” and turning towards the west,
or Mecca, go through their prayers. The Amîr’s two eldest sons pray
regularly at the appointed times, and if they happen to be in Durbar at
the time some of the chief officers join them.

His Highness the Amîr does not pray, at least so far as I know. I have
never seen him do so openly, though it may be he prays in his heart.
I have noticed that some of the greatest scoundrels at the Court are
those who openly pray, or go through the form of prayer most regularly.

[Sidenote: Afghan Conception of God.]

God, as conceived by the Afghans, seems to be an All-powerful Being,
towards whom it is necessary to behave with the greatest politeness;
for if one detail of etiquette be omitted God will be offended--and
then what harm He can bring upon the offender! It is far less dangerous
to offend against a fellow-man by annexing his property or taking his
life than to insult God by omitting to bow down to Him on one of the
five appointed times.

There are many, however, who do not trouble to be religious. I do not
know how they look at things: whether they think too much is required
of them, or that they will probably be able to gain Paradise in the end
by killing some unbelievers, or whether they simply don’t care. When
attending medically any man of education, I had always to be careful in
enquiring whether he were “religious” or not; for if I gave a tincture
(containing spirit) to any “religious” man, I got into trouble--he
evidently considered that I wished to injure his prestige with God.
With the uneducated, or poorer people, I had no trouble of that kind.
They swallowed anything I liked to give them unhesitatingly. I never
found the “religious” Afghan a whit less ready to “do his neighbour in
the eye” than a non-religious one.

[Sidenote: The Languages Learnt in Afghanistan.]

The musjid is also the schoolhouse, and is presided over by the priest.
A learned priest will get a good many pupils, but an unlearned one
none. I have often seen boys from eight to thirteen years of age
seated in a row in the musjid with the moolah, or priest, opposite
them. Their open books are propped on an =X= shaped support, and the
boys sway backwards and forwards as they drone out in a monotonous
voice whatever they are committing to memory. The education of the
majority seems to be of the very slenderest. They learn to read parts
of certain books and to write a little. With some, education is
carried further, particularly among those who are intended for priests
and mîrzas. Some of the latter study Persian sufficiently to write
a well worded and flowery letter: they learn, too, a certain amount
of mathematics--arithmetic and Euclid. The moolahs learn some Arabic
because the Koran is written in that language: otherwise, foreign
languages are not taught. The Court pages seem to be taught rather more
than other boys; some of them learn the different languages of the
country--Pushtu and Turki--as well as Persian. The Amîr’s eldest son,
Prince Habibullah, was learning English when I was in Kabul, though
I never heard of anyone else learning the language. I have heard the
Amîr speak Persian, Pushtu, and Turki. He told me he could speak Arabic
also. Of Russian he said he knew two words only, I have forgotten what
they were; and of English he knew two words: “tree,” he said, meant
“dirakht,” and “gown” meant a lady’s dress.

The income of the priests is derived from their fees for performing the
ceremonies of marriage and of burial, and from charitable donations.

A priest who is a Sêyid, or a direct descendant of the Prophet,
is hereditarily a beggar. He can demand from anyone he pleases a
sufficient sum of money for his wants. The Sêyids in Afghanistan do not
seem to have the exclusive right of wearing green turbans: in fact, I
never saw one with a green turban on, though I have often seen page
boys and others not Sêyids wearing them. One of my servants, the mîrza,
or secretary, was a Sêyid. He was a good sort of man in his way, and I
quite liked him. However, he used to smoke Churrus, or Indian hemp,
and it affected his intellect. At times he behaved like one insane. He
never attempted any violence towards me; in fact, though I was warned
against him, I think he was too attached to me to do me an injury: but,
perhaps, I am wrong in this; however, he never did do any harm. If he
were upset he would cover his face with chalk and walk about shaking
his head in a dejected way, muttering, “Tobah, tobah,” Alas! alas! One
day he removed all his clothing, and went out into the street with his
beggar’s wallet only. I sent one of the military police to fetch him
back, and asked him if he were not ashamed to behave in that manner. He
said he was tired of work. I said, “You are earning an honest living
and are able to send money to your wife and children in Jelalabad.” He
said, Yes, but he had to write when he didn’t want to write. It was
better that he should go out with nothing and beg for his few wants. As
for his wife and children, God would take care of them. There seemed a
certain amount of “method” in this. Occasionally, however, he was very
violent, though not with me, and I could hear him raving like a madman.

[Sidenote: The Hafiz who was Fined.]

One of the compounders at the hospital was a Hafiz and a moolah; a
Hafiz is one who from memory can repeat the whole Koran. He was a tall
handsome young man with courtly manners. He lived at my house, and at
daybreak I was often dreamily roused by his fine tenor voice as he
was chanting his prayers. Once his early prayer was of considerable
worldly service to me and the neighbourhood, for he found that the
bathroom of my house was on fire; the beams were already alight. He
summoned assistance, the fire was soon put out and the matter ended.
If the house had been burnt the affair would have reached the ears
of the authorities, and the neighbours would have had a fine imposed
upon them unless they could produce the incendiary! This young man had
asked permission to live at my house because he could do so cheaply.
He was saving money to pay off a debt incurred in Peshawur, his native
town. I thought, What an honest worthy young man! but I found the money
had been borrowed to pay off a fine imposed upon him for a murder he
committed in Peshawur. He escaped hanging because there was an element
of doubt in the case, and possibly for the reason that his elder
brother had been some years in the British service. He admitted to me
that he had stabbed the man, but he did not regret it. The man was a
“bad man” and had injured him.

“Surely the Koran does not tell you to commit murder,” I said.

“No,” said he, “the Koran is God’s book, but we are all sinners.”

One of the hospital assistants, a Hindostani, working under me, was
also a Hafiz and a priest. He was a very gentlemanly man of about
forty-six, and well educated. He had been in the Bengal cavalry. I
liked him very much, but, unlike most Mahomedans, he was a dipsomaniac.
For a fortnight or so he would be miserably drunk. He drank the native
spirit made from raisins, methylated spirit, or any kind of intoxicant
he could get hold of. He explained his condition to me by saying that
“Shâitan” came to him occasionally and said, “You have drunk no shrâb
for so long, now is a very good time to drink,” and so he listened to
Shâitan and drank. He afterwards gave up alcohol and took to chloral
eating and opium smoking. I was very sorry for the man. I think he was
not such a scoundrel as some of them.

When I first entered the service I picked up a man in Kabul who could
speak a little English, and had him to look after my clothes and wait
upon me--my valet. He was a short thick-set man, with a shaven head,
on which he always perched a little red fez. He was wonderfully gentle
with sick children, who were brought to me to prescribe for. He was
very lazy, but was cowed at once if I were angry. I found he was a
hired assassin who had escaped from Peshawur into Afghanistan. When I
discharged him he made a large sum of money by gambling in the bazaar,
and then returned to Peshawur. The last I heard of him was that he had
been apprehended and was in jail.

At one time, after I returned from Turkestan, I used often to go
and dine at the workshops with the other Englishmen, and two of the
military police who guarded my house came at ten o’clock with a lantern
to escort me home. My interpreter did not like my doing this at all,
because I had to ride through some narrow winding streets and across
the large orchard or garden before I reached the shops. He said, “It
is known that you often come home at that time of night, and you might
easily be shot, and there be no possibility of finding the man who
fired at you. In that case your guard would be killed, and probably I
as well for not warning you.” However, it was too depressing to be
always alone, and no one ever shot at me. One of these soldiers who
came for me was a big, very handsome man, but he had a curious furtive
look in his eyes. He used to pull my riding-boots off when I got home,
and put out the candle. I remarked once upon the curious look in his
eyes, and was told that all in his particular profession had that look.

[Sidenote: A Strangler as a Valet.]

I enquired what he did besides guarding my house. They said, “Have
you not noticed that on some nights another man takes his place?” I
had noticed it. I was then informed that he was one of the official
executioners, whose duty it was to strangle certain of the prisoners in
jail. The unfortunate is told one day that he will have the privilege
that night of sleeping in a separate room. He is conducted there, and
finds there is one other occupant of the room. As soon as he is asleep
the other occupant--my friend!--secretly placing a noose round the neck
of the sleeper, suddenly draws it tight and throws his whole weight
upon the chest, striking the victim violently over the heart.

The late Governor of Kabul and chief of the police, Naib Mir Sultan,
whom the Amîr hanged recently for his iniquities, largely employed this
means of getting rid of prisoners. An anxious woman would come to him
with perhaps a thousand rupees, and implore his intercession on behalf
of her husband who was in jail. The Naib would say, “Yes, he would do
what he could, he knew the case was coming on directly, but it was an
expensive business; if she could bring another thousand perhaps the
thing could be done.” And he would keep her dangling on some time,
squeezing out of her all the money he could get, and then she would be
informed officially that her husband had died in jail of an illness!

Sometimes a prisoner who was sick would ask permission to see the
doctor, and he would be brought to me at the hospital with chains round
his ankles, in charge of a soldier with fixed bayonet. But I was very
careful about prescribing for a prisoner, for the Naib was an adept
in the use of poisons as well as of stranglers, and a death might be
imputed to me. Another way he had of removing objectionable men who
were not prisoners. Some night two of the police knock loudly at a
man’s door, saying, “Get up at once, Amîr Sahib calls you.” This is
quite likely to be true, for His Highness often continues at his work
late into the night, and the man hurries on his clothes and goes out
with the police. He is never seen again; but some days afterwards his
head is found in one place and his body in another. Then the widow in
great distress goes before the Amîr and tells her story.

The Amîr naturally enquires, “Who is your husband?” The woman explains,
saying, “Amîr Sahib sent for him on such and such a night.” The Amîr,
of course, tells her that he did not, and enquires if she can identify
the soldiers who came for her husband. She cannot, for it being night
and she a woman, she has never seen them. The natural conclusion is
that some enemies of her husband have personated soldiers and murdered

I have, however, heard other explanations of these incidents.

[Sidenote: The End of the Naib.]

The Naib was not a bad-looking man: he had a dark skin, but rather
an agreeable expression than otherwise. He never dared go out without
a large guard of his police, the townspeople would have torn him to
pieces. Prince Habibullah disliked him even when I first entered the
service in 1889, and, finally, his iniquities were proven to the Amîr.
I forget what the particular charge against him was, but he was fined,
they said, a hundred lacs of rupees to begin with, somewhere about half
a million! He paid it, and another fine was imposed which necessitated
his selling up everything. Brought before the Amîr soon after this, he
was insolent, and His Highness in exasperation seized him by the beard
and struck him in the face. The soldiers then hurried him away to a
tree outside. Someone suggested his praying. “Pray!” he said, with a
laugh, “after a life like mine? No, I’ll die as I have lived;” and they
hanged him on the tree.

This is the story as I heard it at the time. I did not see him hanged,
for there was a cholera epidemic in Kabul, and I was there. The Amîr
was at Paghman in the mountains.

Though Friday is the Sabbath, the shops are open on that day as well as
on other days in the week. Somewhat less work is done, especially at
the time of the priests’ oration in the principal musjids, about two
in the afternoon. In Kabul the Amîr’s workshops are closed, and the
Out-patient Hospital also. The Amîr himself, too, does less work on
that day, otherwise there is no great difference between the Sabbath
and other days in the week.

I spoke just now of fees to a priest for a “burial” service, but,
perhaps, that is hardly a correct term to apply, for I never saw any
service or ceremony performed at the actual time of burial. However, it
is possible there may be, though I never saw one, but I have seen the
service performed at a death bed.

When I was in Turkestan a young officer, a cousin of the Sultana’s, was
ill. The Hakims, who were attending him, not knowing the use of the
stethoscope, could not diagnose the case, and after some days I was
sent for. I found that he had had Pneumonia, or Inflammation of the
lung, and that instead of clearing up, the inflamed lung had become
tubercular, and a cavity could be detected in it. He had developed
consumption. I did what I could, but it was too late for any permanent
relief to be afforded him.

He became worse, and one day when I called, he was manifestly dying. I
found several men sitting on the ground by the bedside reciting prayers
continuously. I enquired why they were doing so at this time, and was
told they would continue praying till he died, for he was then passing
to Paradise over the narrow bridge whose edge was sharper than a razor,
and that the continuous prayers kept away the evil spirits who were
endeavouring to drag him down into the abyss.

The men praying were his nearest relations, and with them was a priest;
for although it is the Mahomedan custom for the nearest relatives to
recite the prayers on this occasion, a priest is generally sent for

[Sidenote: Royal Tombs.]

The graves of the richer Afghans have upright headstones of marble
or slate carefully shaped and ornamented. The writing on them is in
relief, the stone being chipped away from the letters. The tomb of an
illustrious man is bricked round, about two feet high, and covered with
a slab of marble. Occasionally one is surrounded by a fence: trees
and flowers being planted in the enclosure. The grave of the Amîr’s
father near Kabul is cared for in this way. Others have a sort of small
mosque or musjid built over them; and the deceased, when his name is
forgotten, becomes a holy man and a saint.

The grave of a poor man has a flat stone, the largest his friends can
find, planted upright to mark the place of burial: many have no mark at
all, but the collection of mounds is not to be mistaken. The graveyard
is not walled in or enclosed. The tombs of the kings are, some of them,
imposing. That of Timour Shah in Kabul (son of Ahmed Shah, founder of
the Durani Empire) is a very fine piece of brickwork. A huge central
dome is surrounded by a series of flat-roofed rooms, the ground plan
of the structure being octagonal. No care is taken of it, and it is
becoming dilapidated by time. The tomb of Babur Shah, just outside
Kabul, is also becoming dilapidated. It is smaller and of marble, in
the style of the smaller musjids, with pillars to support the roof.
Another tomb just outside Kabul is built in the shape of a musjid. It
is that of a grandson of Amîr Dost Mahomed. I knew his son very well,
Sirdar Abdul Kûdus Khan. The latter once was of great service to the
Amîr. In one engagement, by a brilliant charge, he completely turned
the fortunes of the day. Success was too much for him, and he became
presumptuous. He was accordingly ordered into honourable confinement.
Some time afterwards he was allowed to appear at court, but for many
years no appointment was given to him. Quite recently, he received
office, being made Governor of the province of Bamian.

[Sidenote: The Proposal of Marriage.]

The marriage ceremony differs very much from ours in England. Firstly,
the young Afghan does not see his sweetheart till she becomes his
wife--at any rate he is not supposed to. He hears that such a man has
a very pretty daughter, and that she is likely to have so much dowry.
He therefore sends his mother or sisters on a visit to the harem. The
ladies, properly veiled, are conducted there by their servants in a
closed palanquin. On their return they give their opinion, and all the
information they have managed to glean. If everything is satisfactory
to the young man, he approaches the father or guardian, and makes his
proposal. If he is accepted as a suitor, an opportunity is given to the
young lady to see the swain herself, unobserved. She can, if she like,
refuse him, and if she be a girl of strong character, may be successful
in her refusal: but I know that sometimes considerable pressure is
brought to bear, if her wishes are contrary to those of her father or
guardian. Sometimes the young man, if he holds a subordinate position,
will prevail upon his superior officer to make the proposal for him
to the father or guardian. It may have more weight. I once had this
onerous and pleasing duty to perform. I marshalled all my servants,
and rode off with as much ceremony as possible, to the house of the
young lady. I had a vague sort of an idea I might see her; but I did
not: she saw me, which was not so satisfactory. When I arrived at the
house, I was conducted through the courtyard into an upstairs room,
where the guardian--her brother in this case--received me. A party of
gentlemen were in the room, and they all rose as I entered. After the
usual salutations a chair was offered me: the rest seated themselves
cross-legged round the room. I made a formal proposal in the name of my
subordinate, and a discussion followed. I was surprised at the free and
open way in which they said the man for whom I was making the proposal
was a rascal and a liar, and that he had not the money he said he had.
There was no delicate hinting that, perhaps, they had erred in assuming
his fortune was such and such. I naturally anticipated a refusal; no,
out of respect for me, he was accepted! Then a large tray of loaf sugar
broken into pieces was brought in, and first I and the guardian, then
the others, ate a little, and the rest was given to the servants. After
that we had tea, and I rode off home again, where the anxious lover was
waiting for me. I said,

“They called you very bad names.”

“That matters little;” said he, “did you eat the sugar?”

“Yes,” I said.

“Ah! then all is well! the other is a custom.”

The actual ceremony of marriage is performed at the house of the
bridegroom, though there is often a reception at the bride’s house
afterwards--not that you see the bride or any other ladies. The father,
guardian, or brothers receive you.

At the marriage ceremony the amount of dower is first discussed
and settled, and then the priest formally enquires, first of the
bridegroom then of the bride’s legal representative, whether they each
agree to the marriage. On receiving an answer in the affirmative he
pronounces a few short prayers and blessings, remaining seated while
he does so, and the ceremony is concluded; sometimes, also, rings are
exchanged. Then comes the reception of guests at the bride’s house.

I was invited to the wedding of Prince Habibullah. I did not see the
ceremony, where the priest blesses the union, but I attended the
reception at the house of the bride’s father. It happened to be in
the suburbs, near where I was living, and I walked there escorted
by my servants and guard. I was shown into a large flower-garden
where several tents were erected. A great many guests had arrived,
but not the Prince. Presently, I heard the “Salaam-i-Padshah”--the
representative of our National Anthem--being played by a brass band.
It is a solemn and slow chant, reminding one of a dead march: it is
very impressive and by no means unmusical. I was told it was composed
by an Englishman--who he was I do not know. Then the Prince rode into
the garden, followed by his brother, Nasrullah Khan. Both were dressed
in scarlet and gold uniforms. Prince Habibullah wore a military helmet
with plumes, and Nasrullah Khan a grey astrakhan hat. I bowed as
the Prince went by, and he pulled up to enquire why I had not taken
possession of the tent prepared for me, and he pointed out a very gay
one. There were people in it, but they turned out at once. The Prince
gave orders to one of the chamberlains for tea and cigarettes to
be served for me there, and then rode on to another tent, where he
dismounted. Taking his seat he received the salaams of the assembled
guests. I sat in my tent, and people came in and chatted, and then went
on to other tents. I drank tea, ate fruit, and smoked, while musicians
and nautch women went through their performances. Then large trays of
sweetmeats and sugar were brought to each of the tents, and when I had
eaten a little I departed, for it began to rain. The servants of each
of the guests carried away their master’s tray of sweets, for it was
the fast of Ramazan, when Mahomedans cannot eat nor drink till night.
The father of the bride was the Shaghassi, or Master of the Ceremonies
in Mazar, and when we left there he was made governor of Turkestan.
Soon after we left, however, he had sunstroke--mania, the hakims
said--and the Amîr recalled him to Kabul.

I found my horse waiting for me at the gate of the garden. In spite of
the rain, the streets were crammed with people, and I had some trouble
in the crowd, for my horse was restive, and plunged; however, we got
home without accident. I went also to the wedding of Prince Nasrullah,
but I will describe that later.

[Sidenote: The Faith Cure.]

Some of the priests have gained a certain amount of reputation as
healers of the sick; not by the administration of medicines, for
that is a privilege reserved for the hakims and doctors, but by the
employment of the “faith cure.” It is an axiom in the Mahomedan
religion that to utter the name of God a great number of times is
of inestimable benefit to both body and soul; also that if a part
of the body be diseased, it is an efficient cure to bind on it the
written name of one of the attributes of God, “the Merciful,” “the
Compassionate,” “the Restorer.” The sick, therefore, go first to
the priest for help, and by the payment of a fee obtain the written
scroll. This is rolled up in silk or leather, or, if the patient be
wealthy enough, is enclosed in a little cylindrical box of silver made
for the purpose, and bound on the diseased part of the body. If the
patient recover, great credit is given to the priest, and other sick
people seek his aid. If recovery does not ensue, either the patient is
resigned, considering that his “Nasîb” is thus written in the book of
fate, or else by the payment of a larger fee he engages the medical
skill of the hakims, or native physicians.

Every patient with chronic disease of any kind who came to me had one
of these little packets fastened by a string round his arm or neck.

[Sidenote: The Evil Eye.]

Many of the children, even those in good health, have similar charms
fastened to them. I noticed that the Sultana, or her women, fastened
one in a gold cylindrical box on the arm of the little Prince Mahomed
Omar, soon after he was born. This was to protect him from accident
or other evil. Sometimes, for the same purpose, a piece of string
only, over which a few prayers have been recited, is tied round the
child’s limb. This is done by the poorer people. Against the “Evil
Eye”--which, as far as I could understand, is the eye of “envy, hatred,
and malice”--something blue is a great protection. Men wear turquoise
rings, children and woman turquoise ornaments or blue beads. When a man
buys a new horse the servants at once fasten a blue bead or ribbon
among the hairs of his tail. It is not necessary for the blue to be
seen: it is just as sure a protection when it is hidden. The Evil Eye
is a dangerous weapon, so many possess it, and it works silently and
secretly. Paralysis, wasting, rickets in children, impotence, and
sudden death, the illness of cattle and horses--all these are imputed
to the evil eye.

Just outside the house I occupied, after my return from Turkestan to
Kabul, there was an open space with a small pond in the middle; this
was a favourite playground for the boys of the neighbourhood. I rode
through it as usual one morning on my way to the hospital. When I had
finished my work and returned home again, my interpreter, who seemed
rather upset about something, said to me--

“Sir, I very sorry you kill that boy to-day.”

“What do you mean?” I said; “I’ve not killed any boy.”

“Oh, yes, sir; you remember he called you Feringhi this morning.”

I remembered then that while riding through the playground, one of the
boys, a good-looking lad of about twelve, had attracted my attention
by calling out something, and he laughed as he ran away. I looked up
carelessly and then rode on, thinking no more about it. I said--

“I remember a boy saying something, but I didn’t hear what it was.”

“Sir, he very fool boy to call you Feringhi, but he is dead now.”

“That is very sudden! What did he die of?” I asked.

“Oh, sir, I poor man--what I know? You looked at him, and he died;
perhaps trouble come for us.”

“Nonsense,” I said, “he must have died of something. Boys don’t die
because you look at them.”

“Sir, in this country often it is they do!”

I indignantly said, “What do you mean! _I_ haven’t got the evil eye!”

He looked at me meaningly, then looked on the ground and shook his head
dolefully: I couldn’t persuade him that the thing was a ridiculous
impossibility. As there is a kind of vendetta in Afghanistan I rather
wondered what would happen next. I told my interpreter to make
enquiries and find out what the boy really died of. He said,

“Why for we make enquiries? Better it is we keep quiet for a few days
and say nothing.”

I never heard what was the cause of death, and the matter blew over.

[Sidenote: Ghosts.]

Besides the evil eye the Afghans believe in other forms of magic; in
certain days of the week being lucky, and others unlucky; in ghosts,
and jins, or devils. A man told me one day that the house he lived in
was formerly occupied by the three sisters of one of the kings, Shah
Shujah, I think it was, and that they were evil women. One night on his
return home, just as he entered the house he heard sound of women’s
laughter in the bath-room on the ground floor. Wondering who could be
there, he opened the door. Three women, whom he did not recognize,
sprang up and rushed, laughing, through the further door into the
inner bath-room. He slammed the door to, and fastened it, and hurried
upstairs, where he found his wife and the women of the household. He
enquired who were the women in the bath-room. They said there could be
no women. The house was of the usual kind--only one door leading from
the street into the courtyard, and every one entering could be seen.
Lights were procured, and he descended to the bath-room, unfastened the
door, opened it, and peeped in--no one was there. He went across to
the further door and found it fastened with a chain and padlock on the
outside in the usual way. He thought, “The women cannot have fastened
themselves in.” He took the key from his pocket, unlocked the door and
looked in: this room also was empty. He is convinced he saw the wraiths
of the women who formerly occupied his house.

Almost every house in Kabul has its ghost or jin. The house I had on
my return from Turkestan had a reputation. The soldiers who were put
to guard it in the winter while I was at the Palace at last refused to
sleep in one of the ground floor rooms. They said it was haunted, that
jins and devils came and pinched them, and moved their rifles and belts
from where they had placed them. So in spite of the intense cold they
moved out into the porch of the big gate opening from the courtyard
into the street, and there they took up their quarters permanently. One
day, just before sunset, after I had returned, the syce came out of
the stable, which was under the room I occupied, and called one of the
other servants. The latter came to me afterwards and said that just as
it was beginning to get dusk he went to look into the stable, as the
syce had called him. To his astonishment he saw what seemed to him to
be two small children running round the legs of the bay horse, and
jumping on its neck and off again. He went forward to gain a clearer
view, and the children, or jins, as he called them, disappeared. He
searched the stable thoroughly, and found nothing out of the way,
except that the bay horse was trembling and covered with sweat.

Many similar stories were related to me at different times, but though
for months I slept alone in the “haunted wing” I never saw any ghost,
jin, or devil--except those clothed with flesh and blood; doubtless it
was a privilege reserved for “True Believers.” There was, however, one
incident; but I will relate that by and bye.




    Accidents from machinery in motion. The “dressers of wounds” in
    Afghanistan. Their methods of treating dislocations, fractures, and
    wounds, and the awful results of the same. The “Barber surgeons.”
    Tooth drawing and bleeding. The Hindustani “Doctors.” “Eye Doctors”
    and their work. The Hakims or Native Physicians. Treatment of
    disease by the People. Aspect in which European Physicians are
    viewed by the different Classes.

[Sidenote: Machinery Accidents.]

One morning soon after our arrival in Kabul, when I was at the Erg
hospital, a messenger arrived in a great hurry to say a man had been
injured at the Workshops. I jumped on my horse, which was waiting, and
galloped off. Just outside the Workshop garden, on the road by the
river bank, I saw the heavy portable engine with a crowd of people
round it. Mr. Pyne was there in the middle of the crowd, and a man, one
of the Afghan workmen, was lying on the ground. I examined the patient
and found he was dead. Mr. Pyne was very upset and at first refused
to believe it. He sent off a man to the shops for whisky, and begged
me to send someone to the hospital for ammonia. I did so, though, of
course, it was useless. They were moving the engine to the Salaam Khana
or Durbar Hall to work the dynamo for the electric light there, but no
one in the crowd seemed to have seen how the accident occurred, whether
the man was crushed under the wheel or whether he had been struck on
the head. There was no inquest, and post mortem examinations were not
viewed with favour.

Later on, when the machinery was put together and some of it was in
working order, accidents and deaths were, as might be expected, of
frequent occurrence. In stepping over the shafting which ran across the
entrance to one of the shops, about a foot above the ground, the long
sheepskin postîn or coat would catch, and the wearer be whirled round
and killed. Familiarity breeds contempt, and in spite of accidents it
took a long time to educate the ordinary Afghan, after he had got over
his first awe, up to the point of learning that machinery in motion
should be approached with circumspection.

They had a way of putting their fingers under the punches of the
cartridge machines, forgetting that the punch would inevitably come
down at its appointed moment. It took one man in the palm, I remember,
and I had to amputate his first and second finger and his thumb.
Another got his hand between some steel rollers in motion, and but for
the fact that Mr. Pyne was on the spot and at once threw the machine
out of gear, the arm would have gone too. As it was, the skin was taken
neatly and cleanly from the wrist and turned backwards like a glove
over the finger tips. The bones of the hand were crushed, and I wished
to amputate in the lower forearm; but the man, who was brought to the
hospital, refused to have the hand taken off because he could move the
fingers a little. I pointed out the danger he was running of further
serious results, but he would not consent.

As he refused the only treatment that I felt was suitable, I could not
undertake to treat him, and he was removed to his home in the city.
I do not know who attended to his hurts, probably one of the native
“dressers,” but four or five days afterwards he sent a friend to beg
that I would come and remove the hand. Unfortunately, it was too late;
“tetanus,” or lockjaw, had set in.

[Sidenote: Afghan Treatment of Dislocations.]

The “dressers” of wounds in Afghanistan are a body of
men--natives--whose duty it is to dress wounds and ulcers, set broken
limbs, and probe for bullets. They have no knowledge of even the
groundwork of their profession. Never having dissected, nor studied
anatomy, they are quite ignorant of the position and shape of the
bones, to say nothing of the course and distribution of the larger
arteries of the human body, so that the abscess knife and the scalpel
put into the hands of one of these men work grievous harm. They carry
about with them a flat tin box, with partitions inside, something
like a paint box; and in it is a collection of most filthy looking
ointments of different colours. These they plaster on indiscriminately;
if one does not cure an ulcer perhaps another will. For dislocation
of joints a mixture of flour and yolk of eggs smeared on is a certain
specific; they have no idea of reducing the dislocation. For a broken
bone, flour and yolk of eggs again comes in. Say the bone of one arm
is broken between the shoulder and elbow, the following treatment is
adopted. Some narrow strips of calico, smeared with the flour and egg
mixture, are bound tightly round the limb at the seat of injury; thus
breaking the first law of surgery, that no bandage be put on under
a splint. Over this bandage are arranged longitudinally four or five
narrow pieces of wood about five inches long, very like those you buy
in a bundle for firewood, and utterly useless as splints, and another
bandage is wound firmly over these; there is no padding with cotton
wool. The patient is then left. The result is, of course, that the limb
below the bandages becomes exceedingly swollen and painful.

When the pain has reached such a pitch that it is no longer bearable,
the patient releases his arm from the bandages, and the dresser is
sent for to readjust them, so that the unfortunate limb is relieved
for a time before it is tortured afresh. In spite of the dresser the
bone sometimes unites, usually at a more or less obtuse angle; but
not uncommonly, especially in compound or comminuted fractures, the
pressure is taken off too late, and the whole limb mortifies. The
patient, after months of suffering, may or may not recover. I have had
them brought to me with the broken end of the bone protruding from a
hanging mass of stringy and sloughing muscle and tendon, the rest of
the limb being hidden from sight by unclean rags.

Such “dressers” as I could get hold of I put through an examination at
the hospital, to try and find out what they knew, and endeavoured to
teach them some elementary facts in anatomy and one or two common sense
rules in surgery, but only one of them would even pretend to learn, and
he was a humbug. They all knew better than I did how to treat wounds
and ulcers, and set broken limbs, and they received any suggestions of
mine in offended silence. I showed up one or two, pointing out the
disastrous results of their treatment, but it did no good. I only had
an extra enemy or two to consider, for they were very venomous.

[Sidenote: The Barber Surgeons.]

Besides the comparatively modern “dressers,” there is another body
of men in Kabul who practise the noble art of surgery, namely, the
“barbers.” The line they specially take up is that of bleeding and
tooth drawing. They have very rough forceps for the latter operation,
and when, as not infrequently happened, they snapped the crown of a
tooth off instead of extracting it, they passed the patient on to me.
It is annoying for a surgeon to have to extract broken but firmly-fixed
fangs from an injured and bleeding jaw. It is not a pretty operation at

For fevers, dyspepsia, gout, headache, or any feeling of malaise, the
barbers bled their patients--but besides these, which may be called the
_irregular_ bleedings, there are regular bleedings every spring and
autumn. These are generally done out of doors by the road side. The
barber, squatting down by the side of his patient, makes his incision
at the bend of the elbow: fortunately, not into the vein immediately
over the great artery of the arm, the one usually bled from in England,
but into one adjoining. The patient holds out his arm and allows the
blood to drip on to the ground till he thinks enough has run away.
There is not the slightest attempt made to measure the quantity of
blood lost. The only precaution taken is to avoid drinking any water
for twenty-four hours afterwards, lest it should mix with the rest of
the blood in the vein and make it thin; or if they do drink any they
hold the wounded arm above their heads to prevent the water running
into it! Wet cupping, too, is performed by the barbers and dressers,
and is a very popular means among the townsfolk of getting rid of
their blood. It is a common thing to see an Afghan scarred all over
the shoulders and loins. Cupping is employed generally as a remedy for
muscular rheumatism. The custom was introduced some years ago by the
Hindustani hospital assistants, who, after having had in India some
slight training in the European system of medicine, found their way
into Afghanistan under the guise of “doctors.” The majority of these
were unqualified men, and were quite unfit to be anything but hospital
assistants. Let loose upon the people they have worked as much havoc
among the sick as a similar number of the hakims could have done.

[Sidenote: Eye Doctors and Hakims.]

There are also native “eye doctors!” These may do good sometimes by
accident, though I never heard of a case, but they do an incredible
amount of harm: for eye diseases, on account of the glare and the dust,
the absence of proper treatment and ordinary care are very common in

[1] The commonest affections I met with were granular lids, chronic
entropion, corneitis, nyctalopia, and cataract.

Finding out that I sometimes used sulphate of copper--an astringent
and caustic--of which there was plenty to be had in the bazaars, they
would put this powdered into any eye--say, of a child who had ulcer of
the cornea! The Hindustani hospital assistants were not much wiser, for
they sometimes used solutions of sulphate of zinc, a similar remedy,
for the same purpose. The eye being irreparably damaged the patient is
then handed on to me, and the Hindustani, like the dresser, smugly says
that “If _he_ couldn’t cure the patient, neither could the Feringhi.”

However, the people and the Amîr judged, I found, according to general
results. I remember in Turkestan a soldier getting leave of absence,
travelling down to Kabul, and bringing his old mother on a donkey the
two hundred odd miles over the mountains, for me to cure her eyes. They
were past all hope.[2] The painful part of the affair was that they
would not believe I _could_ not, but that I _would_ not restore her
eyes; and the old woman went down on her knees to implore.

[2] Entropion, with nebulous and vascular cornea in an old woman of

There was one old fellow, an “eye doctor,” in Kabul, whom I used to
notice on my way to the hospital. He sat in a hut of rushes and mud by
the roadside, with his medicines in little packets before him. I often
wished he would come and have a little elementary instruction in the
“eye.” But he had such a sour expression when I went by, and he never
would look at me, that I did not suggest it to him.

The hakims--the physicians of Afghanistan--practise purely as
physicians; they do not use the knife surgically, rarely even for
bleeding. When they find it necessary to treat an abscess, they apply
an irritating ointment which causes ulceration of the skin. Since the
introduction of European drugs into Afghanistan some of the hakims have
made use of them; but as they do so in ignorance of their therapeutic
properties, the results are rarely satisfactory, and, in some cases,
are disastrous. They have great faith in the healing properties of a
purge, but do not consider it has had any effect unless it acts at
least twenty times. The way is prepared by administering every day for
a week a large bowl of laxative mixture; afterwards, one or more bowls
of a drastic purge are given. Some of the people seem to establish
toleration of this class of medicine, and require a large dose before
they are acted on; but with a vast number this mode of treatment,
combined with the custom of eating largely of ripe and semi-ripe fruit,
certainly predisposes them to the obstinate and often fatal bowel
affections that are such a scourge in the spring and autumn.

These bowel troubles, according to a popular native idea, are caused
by drinking tea immediately after having eaten fruit, particularly
mulberries. There is no doubt, however, that some of the cases are
due to the debilitated and enfeebled state of the digestive organs,
produced by the malarial poison, the immediate exciting cause often
being the sudden change in temperature experienced when climbing a
mountain after a residence in the hot valleys. Other cases are due to
the presence of minute intestinal parasites, the ova of these being
ingested during the drinking of impure water, a common custom among the
careless Afghans.

[Sidenote: Treatment of Disease by Hakims.]

The hakims practise, I was informed, according to the Yunani or ancient
Greek system of medicine. The only books I could obtain on this system
were written in Arabic, and this was an obstacle to my studying them;
but, whatever the teaching of their books may be, the hakims I found
knew nothing whatever about anatomy, physiology, or pathology. Their
treatment of disease is entirely empirical. They act according to
“authority.” Studying disease, not in the living subject, but in their
books only, they have made no progress whatever upon the teaching of
their ancestors. A sick man is brought to them, and some prominent
symptom forces itself upon their notice. This is at once diagnosed as
the disease. For instance, pain in the abdomen is to them “colic.”
It is described in their books and a certain line of treatment is
directed. They do not examine their patient, or attempt to find a cause
for his pain; nor do they differentiate between different forms of
colic, for they have not noticed that pain in the abdomen is sometimes
unconnected with the bowel. As an example, Perwana Khan, the Deputy
Commander-in-Chief in Kabul (“Dipti Supersala”), was for some weeks
attended by the hakims, who, reporting him to be suffering from colic,
administered purge after purge. As, however, he did not seem to be
getting any better, the Amîr desired me to examine him. I found he
had acute pain in the left loin, shooting downwards; the attacks of
pain came on, he said, after he had been riding on horseback, and he
had other symptoms, all pointing unmistakably to stone in the kidney.
I administered suitable medicine for the relief of the pain, and he
was overjoyed, imagining himself cured. I explained, however, to His
Highness what was wrong.

To the hakims dropsy is a disease, and can be cured by the treatment
set forth in their books. No attempt is made to discover the cause
of the dropsy--whether it is due to kidney disease, heart, liver,
lung or blood disease--it is simply an accumulation of gas (bâd) in
the tissues! In diseases of the chest, they do not, of course, employ
auscultation with a stethoscope, nor percussion; and bronchitis,
pneumonia, and phthisis are classed together under the name of sûrfa,
or cough. This, they say, is due to an accumulation of “slime”
(balgham) in the body. In some cases the sûrfa is accompanied by dard
i sîna, or pain in the chest, and occasionally blood as well as slime
is coughed up: these are recognized as bad cases. I have related the
case of the young brigadier in Turkestan, cousin of the Sultana, whom
the hakims were treating for sûrfa, and who was dying of an improperly
treated pneumonia, which had, eventually, become tubercular. As I did
not want to have the credit of killing him, I sent in my report to the
Amîr at once. The hakims did not in the least mind my being sent for to
their cases, after they had become hopeless; for, like the dressers,
they said, “Behold, the Feringhi doctor cannot cure them any more than

Malarial fevers are diagnosed as “cold fever” or “hot fever” (tap i
larza--tap i gurrum), according to whether there is a shivering stage
or not. They are treated by copious bleedings and purgings, and by
very low diet. Malarial fever, however, being due to the presence in
the blood corpuscles of a microscopic animal, an amæba, the treatment
that the hakims adopted was not likely to be very successful. Quinine
in sufficient dose destroys this organism, but the hakims would rarely
give it, or if, following my plan, they did so, they gave it in doses
so small as to be useless, for they said, “Quinine is _hot_, and,
therefore, bad for fever.”

What they meant I do not know.

The hakims divide not only malarial fevers into “hot and cold,” but
they arrange all diseases into these two classes, and I was asked of
almost every disease that came under my notice whether it were hot or
cold; for instance, whether dyspepsia were hot or cold. The reason for
the classification in the case of malarial fevers is obvious enough,
but for the other diseases I never was able to find out upon what they
founded their conclusions. It certainly was not simply whether the
patient had fever or not.

It was particularly embarrassing when the Amîr asked the question, and
I once told His Highness that in Europe we did not speak of diseases
as being either hot or cold, that it was often impossible to consider
them as either one or the other. His Highness was quite indignant at
my denying what apparently seemed to him such a self-evident fact, so
much so that he doubted if my interpreter had translated what I had
said correctly. After that, when I was asked, I told the interpreter
to class the disease as hot or cold, according to the custom of the

[Sidenote: Treatment of Disease by the People.]

In the distant villages, where there is no hakim, and the priest’s
amulet has failed to cure, the people either go untreated or treat
themselves. A popular mode of treatment for diseases of bones and
joints, and also for almost any pain in the chest, abdomen, or back,
is the employment of the “actual cautery.” A piece of live charcoal is
placed against the skin until a deep burn is produced; this is done in
two or three places, the scars, of course, remaining till the end of
the patient’s life.

Another custom, mostly for diseases accompanied by fever, is to kill a
sheep, skin it rapidly, and at once wrap the patient in the hot skin.
I do not know that it does any harm. The Amîr himself, when suffering
from gout, and when the hakims had failed to relieve him, employed this
essentially Afghan mode of treatment for his leg and foot. Afterwards
he sent for me.

For wounds, ulcers, or abscesses the villagers bind on either a piece
of fresh sheepskin, which they leave on till it stinks, or a piece
of an old water bag (mussack), which they soften afresh by soaking.
Sometimes they plaster on mud or clay. In the case of ulcers, the
fact that they _never_ heal under these circumstances does not seem
to strike the Afghans, and they continue in the old custom. If the
discharge oozes from under the clay they plaster on a little more.
Cover a sore, get it out of sight, is the golden rule of hakims,
dressers, and people. The condition of the ulcer when the clay is
removed is indescribable. In some cases the only possible treatment is
the removal of the limb.

[Sidenote: The Feringhi as a Healer.]

I noticed that the richer and more educated Afghans did not seem so
ready to avail themselves of European medical aid as the poorer people,
and it struck me there were two reasons for this. First, that the
hakims took the trouble to explain to the richer people, from whom
they expected to receive fees, that Europeans use deadly poisons in
their medicines, which are just as likely to kill as to cure. A certain
amount of weight attaches to this by the often unfortunate results
of medical treatment by the Hindustani hospital assistants. The other
reason seems to be due, not to the hakims, but to the influence of
the priests. The more religious of the Afghans apparently look upon a
European as one who, by the help of the Powers of Evil, has in this
world the gifts of knowledge, skill, and wealth, but who in the next
life must inevitably be consigned to eternal torment. Doubtless with
his deadly poisons he can cure diseases if he wish, but it is not wise,
and, indeed, is scarcely lawful, for a sick man to make use of him.

They feel it will offend God less if, before they traffic with the
evil one by employing a Feringhi doctor, they use all lawful and right
means to become well, such as trying the efficacy of prayer, or the
wearing of amulets and charms: should these fail, by placing themselves
under the care of their hereditary physicians, the hakims, who attended
their fathers and their fathers’ fathers. They can always call in the
Feringhi as a last resource.

The peasants and the hillmen, the soldiers and the poorer townsfolk--in
fact, all those who are but occasionally under the influence of the
priests, and from whom the hakims can expect a small, if any fee--these
are ready enough to trust themselves, when sick, to European medical
skill. They take advantage of that which seems to them good, as an
animal might, without entering upon the deeper question whether it is
religiously right or wrong--in fact, they even look upon a doctor as
one to be classed with Dewanas or madmen, and prophets, who are all
more or less sacred.

It must be a powerful reason, such as the fear of being poisoned or
damned, that prevents the richer Afghans from employing European
medical aid, for they have to pay the hakims, whereas at the hospital
no fees or presents were received, and it is not the nature of an
Afghan to pay for a thing if he can get it for nothing.




    Jealousy and its results. Sport among the Afghans. The Prince
    hawking. The “Sportsmen” among the mountains. Wild-fowl shooting.
    Order to join the Amîr in Turkestan. Preparations. The start.
    Camp at Chiltan. The Banquet. The Nautch dance. Salaams by the
    Villagers. Among the Hindu Kush mountains. The camp in the Hazara
    country. The dismal night. Courtesy of Jan Mahomed. The hungry
    morning. Mountain paths. Iron spring. The underground river and
    the Amîr’s offer. The Red mountain and the Deserted City. Camp in
    the Valley of Bamian. The English prisoners of 1837. The Petrified
    Dragon. The Colossal Idols: their construction and probable origin.
    The Cave-dwellers. The Pass of the “Tooth breaker.” Ghuzniguk.
    Story of Ishak’s Rebellion. Fording the River. Tash Kurghán: the
    Shave and the Hospital. “The Valley of Death.” The Plains of
    Turkestan and the heat thereof. The Mirage. Arrival at Mazar. The
    House. Story of the death of Amîr Shere Ali.

[Sidenote: Jealousy: Revenge.]

About a month after our arrival in Kabul an incident occurred which,
though gruesome in its details, I cannot refrain from relating on
account of the light which it throws upon the nature of the Afghan.

One of the soldiers had made a favourite of a boy in the town. Some
time afterwards the boy was seen to associate with another man in the
cantonment. At once the jealousy of the soldier was aroused. He taxed
the boy with it, and in a moment of jealous anger he drove his knife
into him, killing him instantly.

Forthwith the mother of the lad appealed to Prince Habibullah for
justice and revenge. She claimed the life of the murderer. The Prince
heard the case in detail, and, according to the Afghan law (an eye
for an eye and a tooth for a tooth), granted the woman’s request. The
soldier was hurried off to the execution ground, close to the hospital
where I was. His hands were fastened behind him, and he was tied in a
sitting posture in a chair. A knife was handed to the woman: she seized
the man’s beard, wrenched his head back, and with a cry of “Allah,
akbar,” cut his throat. Then, flinging down the knife, she plunged her
hands in the spirting stream, and lapped the blood into her mouth.

On Friday, the Mahomedan Sabbath, there being no work in the workshops,
Mr. Pyne and I went for a ride along the beautiful lanes fringed with
poplars, which lie between the fields around Kabul.

We saw in a large field among the young green corn some seven or eight
horsemen sitting silently on their horses. Presently I recognized the
slender form of Prince Nasrullah. We rode up to salute His Highness,
and he informed us he was hawking for partridges. The bird used was, I
believe, a species of falcon, though I am not sufficiently skilled an
ornithologist to say what species. The bird is carried, hooded, on the
wrist, and is unhooded and cast off when the prey is sighted. For large
game the bigger female falcon is used.

The group of riders made quite a picture as they sat: the gold
embroidery of their military uniforms sparkling in the sun; the black
of the astrakhan hat, the long waving mane and tail of the horses,
all sharply distinct against the background of soft spring green and
distant shadowy mountains.

[Sidenote: Mountain “Sportsmen.”]

As a nation the Afghans are fond of sport. Game of many kinds
is plentiful in the country. A short time ago, the sport of all
sports--for the excitement of great possible gain came in--was the
picking off of unwary travellers and annexing their belongings. Here
was not only sport but the indulgence of a passion so dear to the
Afghan, that of gambling.

A sportsman on the hills saw trudging along the road a traveller with a
burden on his shoulders. From the distance he examined him with care.

“To my eye this traveller has rupees and much gold in his pack. Without
doubt he is a rascal Hindu usurer, who, journeying to Kabul, is about
to plunder the Faithful. Soul of my father! Shall this be?” And the
bullet sped on its way. Springing from rock to rock, with agility born
of a mountain life, the sportsman was soon on the road. Quickly he
opened the pack and--out rolled a melon.

His arms sunk to his sides, his head drooped, and he stood the picture
of despair. For his sins he was thus punished. “Tobah! tobah! alas and
alas!” he groaned; “my cartridge, my good cartridge is gone, wasted,
for ever lost; and I, what have I? a melon! Wai! wai!” and he wept.

But, nowadays, since the great king, Amîr Abdurrahman, has occupied the
throne, this form of sport is less popular than it was. Possibly it may
be due to the fact that consequences far from pleasing to the sportsmen
and their friends are apt to follow indulgence in this pastime.
Imprisonment has occurred; the being compelled to work in chains on the
roads or in the workshops; ignominious death even, as by hanging, or
by being thrust into an iron cage and left thirsting on the high peak
of a mountain. So, therefore, as I said, it is becoming less popular.

There are, however, many other forms of sport. Wild-fowl shooting in
the marshes around Kabul is a favourite pastime.

Sometimes the sportsmen go in a body on horseback, ride into the
marsh where it is shallow, disturb the duck and fire into the flight.
Sometimes they go singly, conceal themselves and use a decoy. In the
plains they stalk the deer or use a body of beaters to drive the game
to certain points. In Turkestan, tiger, wild pig--which they shoot--and
bear are to be obtained. Duck shooting in the autumn and winter, and
hawking in the spring are, perhaps, the sports in which the Royal
Family most frequently indulge.

[Sidenote: The Start for Turkestan.]

Not very long after our arrival in Kabul it was rumoured that the Amîr
needed my services in Turkestan, and a month and a-half afterwards
the official order arrived. I was to accompany Jan Mahomed Khan,
the Treasury Officer, who was about to convey a supply of bullion
to Turkestan for the use of His Highness. Accordingly, as soon as
I received the order, I engaged some servants: a Peshawuri--the
“assassin,” whom I have already referred to--as valet, and a Hindustani
cook, whom I found in Kabul. I was fortunate in being able to obtain
a cook, as hitherto Mr. Pyne and I had shared one between us. The man
I engaged had been cook in the family of Sir Louis Cavagnari. The
other servants were Afghans. After some extra cooking pots, dried
fruit, salt, and various other things, which the cook said he must
get from the bazaar, were obtained, and the baggage was packed, Mr.
Pyne accompanied me to the house of Jan Mahomed Khan. We were received
in a large room, which was crowded with people standing. We seated
ourselves at the end and drank tea with Jan Mahomed. Then a bottle of
champagne was opened, complimentary speeches made, and, finally, about
midday we started. We stopped at the Palace, dismounted, and went in to
take leave of His Highness, the Prince. When we remounted we were met
outside the Palace by Perwana Khan, the Deputy Commander-in-Chief, and
Naib Mir Sultan, the Governor of Kabul, each with their attendants, so
that with our own crowd of servants, and a guard of sixty soldiers, we
made a large cavalcade. A crowd of people on foot accompanied us part
of the way, running by the side and in front of the horses. The sun
shone brightly; the dresses of the officials--crimson, and purple, and
green--were brilliant with gold embroidery. The glitter of the gold
and silver ornaments on belt, scabbard, and bridle, the blue and gold
turbans of the attendants, the black sheepskin busbies of the soldiers,
horses caracoling, and the look of bustle and excitement, made an
artistic and interesting picture.

We rode by the bank of the Kabul river westward, past the workshops and
through the gorge between the Sher Durwaza and Asmai mountains out into
the Charhardeh valley.

The first day’s journey was short, for we went only a few miles across
the valley to a place called Chiltan, where on a hill Jan Mahomed has
a “country residence.” The house was pretty, and well built, in the
style of a bungalow with a verandah; around it were flower gardens with
a small fountain. Down the hill and around the foot of it were vines
and fruit trees, and the view from the house was over the cornfields
and vineyards of the beautiful Charhardeh valley, circled with

The Governor of Kabul did not accompany us to the house, but the rest
of us sat down to dinner together, in the Mahomedan fashion, that is,
on the ground. Pyne and I were accommodated with cushions. As we were
not able to double our legs up in the Eastern fashion we “reclined.”
It was my first “native” dinner, and I enjoyed it immensely, for the
ride and excitement had made us hungry. With the fruit, champagne was
brought, and afterwards sweets and tea. Then when we lit our cigars
nautch girls and musicians were introduced.

[Sidenote: The Nautch Dancer.]

I can speak of the wild barbaric music from seithar, rubarb, and drum;
of the passionate Oriental love song pealing forth in unison from
strong male voices; of the unveiled girl dancers undulating to the
music; of the glances cast by the dark eyes, the waving of arms, the
clinking of bangles, and the tinkling of bells on their ankles, as the
dancers stepped daintily on the carpet.

I can also speak of the indescribable ear-splitting din, without
either time or tune, which was torn from the tortured instruments and
hurled at us as “music;” of the harsh voices roaring till they were
hoarse something which we did not understand; of the attempts of the
singers to produce a trill by shaking the head; of the utter absence of
modulation or feeling in their singing; of the dancing women shuffling
about, clapping their hands and throwing themselves into uncouth and
to us unmeaning postures; and I thought, “Oh, for an hour of Augustus
Druriolanus to open the eyes of these Easterns.”

We turned in at midnight, Pyne and I sharing a room, and he broke my
only egg cup with his heel. We started next morning at eight, said
good-bye to Pyne, who returned to Kabul to superintend the workshops,
and then rode on. On the way villagers came out and lined the road to
salaam Jan Mahomed and offer him presents. As they stood in a row they
held out their hands, palm upwards, muttered a prayer, and stroked
their beards--that is, those who had beards: the young men and boys who
had not, pretended to do so. At some places they slung a string across
the road with a Koran fixed in the middle of it, and as we passed under
it we held out our hands, palm upwards, muttered a prayer, and stroked
our beards. At other places they killed a bullock or a calf by cutting
its throat. I do not know the significance of the operation.

It rained somewhat when we got among the mountains, and Jan Mahomed,
who had on a purple velvet tunic, put up an umbrella to protect
himself. I found he had brought his little son, four years old with
him. The youngster was seated in a little chair, which was securely
fastened on the back of a steady horse, an attendant holding a leading
rein. I was not on very good terms myself with my horse. He was a
very showy creature, and had been given me by the Prince, but he had
evidently not been ridden lately, and was very fresh. A march is a
fatiguing function at the best of times, and my horse was not up to
the quick shuffling walk which is so restful. He would do anything
else--buck, kick, gallop, or trot. Finally Jan Mahomed ordered one of
the soldiers, an iron Afghan, to change with me, and I was at peace

Sometimes we stopped at a village and put up in the different houses;
other times the tents were pitched near a stream. When we got among the
Paghman offshoot of the Hindu Kush mountains we had pelting rain and
sleet for hours; a violent storm of thunder and lightning; then had to
ford a wide roaring stream with a stony irregular bed, and, finally, to
camp outside a Hazara fortified village in the sloppy melting snow.

[Sidenote: Courtesy of Jan Mahomed.]

The village (Kharzar) was too filthy inside for us to enter, and too
cramped in space to accommodate us, if we had entered. I went to
look--for my tent had not arrived. For food the villagers were too
ill provided themselves to be able to sell us anything, and hungry,
wet, and tired, it seemed likely we should have a cheerless night.
When Jan Mahomed’s tent was ready he kindly invited me to enter it. I
took off my soaked ulster, sloshed and slipped into the dusk of the
tent, sat on a stool, and shivered miserably. Nothing else seeming to
be forthcoming, a pipe was the only resource, and with shaking hand I
tried to light it. Match after match fizzed in the damp and went out.
The pipe chattered in my teeth, and, woe is me, I felt that the cold
and the wet and the hungry emptiness would last for ever. But it did
not. Jan Mahomed Khan noticed presently that I seemed uncomfortable.
He rose from the camp stool on which he was sitting enveloped in the
voluminous folds of a huge sheepskin postîn, came across the tent,
slipped the postîn from his shoulders and threw it around me. I tried
to refuse; but he insisted. He said nothing, for he could not speak
English nor I Persian, then he smiled, bowed and sat down again. I felt
very grateful, and at the same time rather ashamed at having robbed
him, but presently a soldier brought him a cloak in which he wrapped

Meanwhile, the attendants, having succeeded in obtaining some straw,
scattered it thickly inside the tent and spread carpets over it. Then
they endeavoured to light a fire in a large iron pot outside, and when
there was a feeble glimmer of a flame they brought it in. We gathered
round it joyfully, but soon a dense fog of smoke from the damp wood
filled the tent. Though I still shivered under the postîn, I had
managed to light my pipe, and I sat puffing away with the smarting
tears trickling down, finally the smoke fog became so dense that I was
compelled to sit with my eyes shut. Neither Jan Mahomed nor any of the
Afghans seemed to mind it in the least. Jan Mahomed himself is not an
Afghan. He is a Samarcandi whom the Amîr purchased as a boy. He was the
Amîr’s faithful attendant when in exile in Russian Turkestan; and when
His Highness came to the throne Jan Mahomed was put into a position
of trust, finally becoming treasury officer, or “Chancellor of the

The tent, by-and-bye, became warmer, and I took off my solar helmet
which I had worn during the rain storms. The Afghans, however, attach
great importance to keeping the head warm, and they all insisted upon
my putting on that or some other head covering at once; otherwise, they
said, I should take fever. The fire began to blaze up brightly and
the smoke to disappear, when an iron vessel was brought, containing
a few pints of milk with water added to eke out the quantity. They
put it over the fire and, when it boiled, a handful of tea was thrown
in. There was enough for all in the tent to have a teacupful; I,
the guest, and Jan Mahomed, received two each. By-and-bye, an iron
camp bedstead was prepared for my host, and he retired; one of the
attendants kneading and massaging the limbs till he slept. My bedding
not having turned up I threw a buffalo rug over my feet, and lay down
on the carpet enveloped in the folds of the sheepskin. It was not a
comfortable bed, but I was tired and slept more or less, waking up
occasionally with aching bones.

The morning was bright: the rising sun in the clear sky lit up the
white snow all around, and a keen wind was blowing. My interpreter,
the Armenian, appeared. He said he had had fever in the night, and had
found shelter in one of the huts inside the Hazara fort. He brought me
a small piece of dry bread which the cook had found among the baggage
when my tent arrived. Some hot tea was made, and I munched my crust
with great satisfaction. They told me we should have a cold march that
day, by Hajiguk, and the Armenian said:--

“Sir, you not wear the long coat; he is wet, and fever come for you.”

“I must wear something,” I said.

“Another you have,” said he, and off he went. He presently returned
with my dressing-gown. I objected; but, no, there was nothing
extraordinary in it; in fact, it was very like an Afghan robe. I wore
it, therefore, though it did not seem a very suitable riding coat.

[Sidenote: Mountain Climbing.]

It was a cold march as we crunched along through the snow, in spite of
the fact that the sun was shining brightly. We were at an altitude of
over sixteen thousand feet, and had to make long detours, for the road
was in places blocked or rendered unsafe by the snow. In some of the
detours where there was no path, we scrambled up and down terrifying
slopes. My saddle, a hunting one, could not be kept in place, and we
had to extemporize a breast-plate with string. In one ravine where
we halted, trying to find a way out, there was a sudden crack and a
splash. We had stopped over a stream crusted with ice and covered with
snow, and the horse of one of the soldiers went through. The stream,
however, was shallow, and only the man’s feet were wetted. There was a
laugh as he urged his horse out.

We descended from the region of snow into valleys where the air
quivered with heat, and one’s face was nearly blistered. In one, where
we stopped for lunch, I put a clinical thermometer for a moment against
my coat sleeve. The mercury shot up to the top at once. I was glad when
we moved on again. We passed a spring bubbling up near the road, whose
waters were impregnated with iron, the ground all round being stained
brown. Jan Mahomed said the water contained copper and was poisonous.

I remember one narrow but wild rocky ravine, with a river foaming and
roaring down it. The road ran along a few yards above the water. There
was a natural bridge of rock, over which the road ran, and just beyond,
a waterfall of some depth, where, at the bottom of the fall, the water
rushed under an arch of rock and was lost to sight. It reappeared, I
was told, in a valley about two miles off, and they said His Highness
the Amîr one day, when travelling by, offered a prize of a hundred
rupees to the man who would plunge in and explore the underground
river. A duck had been put in and had reappeared alive in the valley.
A soldier undertook the adventure at once, and was preparing for his
perilous journey when the Amîr forbad it. His Highness said, “If he is
drowned I lose a man of courage, and if he succeed what gain is there?
Give him the rupees.”

[Sidenote: Camp in the Bamian Valley.]

We were now about ninety miles from Kabul. For the first forty miles we
travelled due west, after that north-west, till we entered the ravine
I spoke of, which led nearly due north. As we rode on, the ravine
descended and opened into a large and very fertile valley. The mountain
at the west of the gorge was red in colour, quite different from those
we had been travelling among. Looking up with some interest at it, I
distinguished battlemented walls and towers leading up the mountain,
and, at the top, clusters of ruined houses and walls. There was no
sign of life. The city was deserted. They told me the place was called
Zohàk-i-Marhan, and was built a thousand years ago (“hazar sol”) by
the Emperor Alexander (“Sekunder”).

I did not, however, in the style of architecture see anything that
could lead one to suppose the buildings were of Greek origin. It
is interesting to note that there is in Afghanistan a tribe called
Zohàk, which is a division of the Ushturyani (the Stauri of Pliny),
who formerly occupied the district west of Bamian. Zohàk is stated by
Dr. Bellew to be the same as Zàk and Sàk, and stands for the ancient
inhabitants of Sistàn and Makràn, Assyrian subjects of Nimrod, king of

We descended into the valley and camped not far from the red mountain,
near the village of Topchi.

It was the month of May, the sun shone brightly, and the fields around
were green. Jan Mahomed had brought the musicians--but not the dancing
girls--with him. We luxuriated after the bitter winds and sleet of the
mountains, and the heat and weariness of the stony valleys. When lunch
was over Jan Mahomed sent me some sweets and a bottle of champagne. I
found that my servants, though Mahomedans, felt they were justified
after their fatigues in finishing the bottle. The musicians sat playing
in Jan Mahomed’s tent, and as I lay in mine reading a novel, the quaint
music, softened by the distance, was more pleasing than I had supposed
possible. For years afterwards the twang of the rubarb, the irregular
thud of the drums, and the monotonous sound of the singing, brought
back vividly to me that day in the Bamian valley, when I was a new
comer in the country.

The Bamian valley extends from Topchi nearly ten miles in a westerly
direction, and is about eight thousand feet above the sea. It is
interesting to know that Lady Sale, Lady MacNaughten, and six other
English ladies, who were taken prisoners in the first Afghan war in
1837, were conducted over the road we traversed to this very valley.
Lady Sale, relating their adventures, says that though they suffered
hardship, privation, and much anxiety concerning their future fate,
they were treated with kindness and consideration by the villagers
on the way. The order was that they were to be conducted to Khulum,
a hundred and twenty miles further on among the mountains toward
Turkestan, there to be delivered over to the Governor. This would have
meant to them a hopeless captivity. Happily, Sir Robert Sale, after the
defeat of the Afghans by Pollock, hurried on, and was able to rescue
the party in Bamian. Lady MacNaughten, less happy than Lady Sale, had
seen her husband, diplomatist and Oriental scholar, murdered before her
eyes in Kabul.

While we were in this valley Jan Mahomed went some miles out of the
road to show me a petrified dragon, or as my interpreter put it, “a
stone cow.” Akbar Mahomed had slain this dragon in single combat, and
Allah had changed it into stone. “Why _cow_?” I asked the Armenian,
some time afterwards. “It is a snake or a dragon.”

“I not know English word snake and dragon; I must say some animal, and
‘cow’ came into head, therefore I say _cow_.” The dragon I found to be
a curious shaped rocky hill formed in the course of ages by the deposit
of carbonate of lime from a spring that was still bubbling there.


  _From a photograph by Arthur Collins, F.G.S._]

[Sidenote: The Colossal Figures.]

This valley was full of surprises, for the next day we came up with
three colossal figures, cut in relief on the face of the mountains (the
Hindu Kush range) on the north side of the valley. These figures, they
said, were statues carved by order of Jelaluddin Shah, of himself,
his wife and son (Jelaluddin lived about the year 1230). Away on the
other side of the valley we could dimly see on the heights the ruins
of a deserted city--“the city of Jelaluddin.” We were too far off to
see anything characteristic in the ruins, but it is possible that
the city belongs to the same era as that of Zohàk-i-Marhan, a few
miles further down the valley. The figures, it is probable, are of
Buddhist origin, and date back to the time which preceded the Mahomedan
conquest of Afghanistan, when Buddhism was the dominant religion of
the country. The largest of the three figures, which has the local
name of “Sa-mama,” is 173 feet in height. The smaller, “Sul-sol,” 120
feet, and the smallest not more than 80 feet. They resemble in style
other figures of Buddha. The drapery, moulded and fastened on with
pegs, shows no sign of classical influence, arranged, as it is, in
stiff conventional folds. These are in places broken away, showing
the peg holes. To give an idea of their relative size, I saw a man on
horseback ride up to one figure--he and his horse together were not so
high as the toe. The figures are hollow, and there are steps leading
up to chambers inside the body and head. These are used by the Amîr
as storehouses for grain. On the wall of the chamber, in the head of
the largest figure, are the indistinct marks of a fresco painting, of
which Mr. Collins, the geologist, managed, some years afterwards, to
get an imperfect photograph. It is, however, impossible to make out the
subject, and I heard no story as to when or by whom it was painted. In
the face of the mountain, by the side of the figures, are chambers or
caves hollowed out of the rock. Some of these are beautifully cut, with
domed roofs--to use the words of Mr. Collins, who examined them--in
“hard conglomerate rock, and are coated with a layer of lustrous
bitumen.” Doubtless, they were used as temples and dwelling-places for
the Buddhist priests. Many of the other caves are in “soft sandstone
and conglomerate.” These could be easily cut, the hard conglomerate
forming a natural roof for rooms dug in the softer sandstone beneath.
Presumably they are of later origin than those cut in the harder
material. Narrow, almost impossible staircases lead up to the caves,
and there dwell the poorer Hazara agriculturists of the Bamian valley.
There are cave-dwellers in many parts of Afghanistan, and it is men of
this kind, who combine the professions of agriculturist and warrior,
who would be likely to cause more trouble to an invader of Afghanistan
than would the regular army of the Amîr. During the last Afghan war the
English were at first much puzzled by the rapidity with which thousands
of armed men would appear, and, if occasion required, the equal
rapidity with which they would vanish. All that could be found was here
and there a peaceful peasant hard at work in the fields with his
mattock--the rifle was left at home.

The furniture of one of these rock dwellings is simple enough. The
most prominent feature is the great ornamented earthen jar, in which
grain and provisions are stored: a strip of carpet occupies the place
of honour in the centre of the floor: a few copper cooking utensils, a
“chillim,” an Afghan “samovar” for tea, and a rough “charpoy,” complete
the establishment.

In the Bamian valley, fertile, full of interest and with a delightful
climate, we travelled deliberately, taking two days to traverse the
ten miles or so. As we rode, my Armenian told me many stories. I do
not know what they were about; I didn’t then. One only I understood.
He said that once on a march, utterly wearied, he went to sleep on
horseback. “It is thrown out,” said he, meaning himself; and pointing
to his forehead, with a mild smile, he said, “He is broke, and blood
is come.” I laughed, and asked what happened next. “I got him upstairs
horse, but I not go to sleep again.”

[Sidenote: The Pass of the “Tooth-breaker.”]

Then we turned north, and the next day was wearisome: not so much
from the length of the march, it was only thirty miles, as from the
incessant climbing. We had a mountain to cross, to which all that we
had hitherto seen was a mere joke. The Afghans call the mountain the
“Tooth-breaker” (Dandan shikan). I don’t mind trifling adventures,
such as riding along the tops of walls, or foot-wide bridges, but when
it comes to riding an iron-shod horse along smooth rock, slanting to
a precipice of unknown depth--well, it is past a joke. We had to do
it, and then descend a horrible “zig-zag.” I don’t call it a path,
because the predominant features were boulders, smooth tilted slabs,
and rolling pebbles. You lean back in the saddle, leaving your horse to
make his own arrangements. He picks his way warily, lower and lower,
and you thank Heaven you have got so far, when, just as you reach the
end of one “zig,” and your horse’s nose is over the edge, there is a
crunching slip of his hind feet: you catch in your breath and--think.
But he does not make a plunge over the edge, he pivots round on his
four feet, and goes down the “zag.” This is repeated frequently, and
at last, after many years, you arrive with your nerves in a shattered
condition at the bottom. The next time I came over this road, a year or
two later, there were accidents; but that I will speak of later.

We travelled on, day after day, through valleys and over
mountains--sometimes putting up at villages, sometimes camping in our
tents. Rain and hail alternated with scorching heat. To blacken you
properly, you want a dry scorching heat, alternating with icy winds and
hail. Some of the soldiers looked exactly as if they had been smoked:
the eyelids and creases of the face being white--the rest black.

[Sidenote: Story of Ishak’s Rebellion.]

We often had music when we camped, and one evening I played chess with
Jan Mahomed. He beat me. We were then at Ghuzni guk, the valley where
the armies of the Amîr and of his cousin Sirdar Ishak Khan met and
fought. The story I heard was this: His Highness the Amîr and Ishak
had always been friends, and when the Amîr ascended the throne, Ishak
was made Governor of the Turkestan provinces. All went well for some
years. Suddenly, news arrived in Turkestan that His Highness had had
an attack of gout, and had succumbed.[3] Ishak called his officers
around him, and discussed what steps to take. The chiefs urged him to
seize the throne. He, however, was a nervous man, not a warrior by
nature, and he hesitated. The chiefs seeing this, broadly hinted that
unless he seized the moment while he could, they would place another on
the throne, and Ishak, much against his will, was constrained to do as
they wished. He sent his women-folk and children across the Oxus into
Russian Turkestan, and marched with his troops and chiefs for Kabul.
They had not advanced many days’ journey when news was brought that
the Amîr was very much alive, and that his army was marching under
Gholam Hyder, the less, to meet them. Ishak knew now that he must meet
his Great Cousin, and in fear and distrust he posted relays of horses,
so that, if the worst came, he could escape across the frontier. They
met in this valley a few miles beyond Kamard. It is said that Ishak’s
army at the outset had the best of it--the men knew they were fighting
for their lives--but Ishak, neither Mahomedan nor Christian, did not
wait to see the end of the day. He made use of his horses, and rapidly
escaping across the frontier into Russia, he left his unfortunate
followers to bear the brunt of the Amîr’s terrible vengeance. It
appears that the rumour of the Amîr’s death had some foundation: His
Highness had been seized with a sudden attack of syncope, in which he
fell insensible to the ground.

[3] The news reached India. It was the first thing I saw in the papers
when I arrived there to enter the Amîr’s service, Sept. 1888.

One Sunday we had a very long march, thirteen hours, with two rests of
an hour each. Going one pace all the time is tedious, and one’s bones
ache abominably. We got into a ravine with a rapid stream roaring
along it, and part of the path was undermined and slipping. We had to
dismount and skip across on foot, the soldiers getting the horses over.

The ravine narrowed, curved to the right, and opened out into a
valley. The river roared round the corner, figure =S= shape, in some
places cutting away the path completely. Our horses had to plunge, and
stumble, and splash through that river three times in twenty yards,
before we could get out into the valley. It is at times like this that
the beautiful song “One More River to Cross” becomes full of meaning. A
mile or two more of hill and vale, and soon after dark we reached “Tash
Kurghán,” or “Khulum,” the place where Lady Sale and her companions in
captivity were to have been taken.

We put up at the citadel or fort, which is built on a rocky hill in the
middle of the town. We rested here all day Monday, and I enjoyed the
luxury of a hot bath. The Armenian waxed philosophical. He said, “It is
good to rest a little. Tired is go away, and hungry is go away.” Also
he suggested that a shave might commend itself to my judgment.

“But who is to shave me?” I said.

[Sidenote: The Wounded Soldiers in Tash Kurghán.]

“There is bolber in the town.” He called it barber afterwards. They
fetched the barber, and I wondered if it were dangerous for him to
shave me, for I had heard that Afghans were treacherous fanatics.
He did not destroy me. He merely rubbed some oil on my chin and
then scraped the skin off with a knife--a painful process. When the
operation was completed, I was conducted to the hospital. No, not on
account of my chin, but to examine the patients. The hospital was an
ordinary but rather large dwelling-house, and there were many wounded
soldiers lying there. It was exceedingly unclean and smelt badly. The
patients--I never before in my life saw such a condition of things. The
ghastly state to which battle wounds can come from neglect and improper
treatment, is too awful for words. I wanted to move the men from the
house, and to amputate at once some half-dozen arms and legs that were
_worse_ than useless to their owners. I could not, for I had neither
knives nor chloroform, and I had to leave the men--to leave them as I
found them--with their wistful eyes on me.

After that Jan Mahomed took me out to dine at a local magnate’s house.
My cook accompanied me, bearing knife, fork, spoon, and plate. In the
absence of table and chair I had to kneel to use my knife and fork.
It was not a comfortable dinner. I could not understand what the
conversation was about; and there were those men at the hospital ever
before me.

Beyond Tash Kurghán we turned west, and the scenery completely changed.
For some miles there was undulating plain covered with coarse grass. As
we rode on we started a herd of antelope, and had a gallop after them:
the change of motion from the everlasting walk was a great rest to the

In one place the road dipped down between some low clay hills, the
defile of Abadu. Until very recently this little grip had had the
credit of being exceedingly dangerous; in fact, it is even yet called
“the Valley of death:” this on account of the caravan thieves and
robbers who infested the neighbourhood.

It is less dangerous under the present Amîr, for I had occasion while
in Turkestan to send for two additional dispensers from Kabul, and
these two men rode the whole distance from Kabul to Mazar unattended.
They had for safety’s sake a revolver. It was, however, unloaded, and
they had no powder.

The plains became gradually flatter and more dusty, till, finally, it
was little more than a desert with the scantiest vegetation.

The heat was intense, and the glare from the white dust most wearying.
Away in the distance in front of us, I saw a lake with some trees round
it, and I longed for the time when we should arrive and get cool again
in the shade. “There is no lake there,” they said. Nonsense! I knew
there was. This was no “mirage.” I mean, you could see the thing. There
weren’t any towers or castles, or people walking upside down, simply
one or two trees near some water. But, alas! we dragged on and on in
the parching heat, and never got nearer the lake. We passed a camel,
dead, by the roadside, loading the hot air with foulness. The gorged
vultures only hopped lazily a little way off, and sat and stared at us.
We halted at last, dismounted, and sat in the sun while the “chillim”
bearer blew up his charcoal and passed round the pipe. I had a pull at
it. He kept a little silver mouthpiece for my especial benefit, which
he slipped on the end of the tube. I was glad of this, though I knew it
was simply done lest I had eaten pork or anything unclean. After all
had smoked, the pipe charcoal was used to light some sticks that the
pipe-bearer had brought with him; the kettle was boiled, and we had hot
tea--scalding hot: the hotter it was, the more it seemed to satisfy our

[Sidenote: Arrival at Mazar.]

Then we mounted and rode on again. By-and-by, Jan Mahomed politely gave
me a handful of English sweets, those round discs like pennies, with a
fancy edge, and with words printed on, “For a good boy”: they tasted
of peppermint. I wished they had been gelatine lozenges. Some hours
afterwards we halted again. This time it was at a village on the plain.
There were small mud-huts, and quaint-looking domes of wickerwork with
bits of scrub tucked into the interstices. It was cool in the shade,
and the villagers, Turkomans, gave us lettuces to eat. It was delicious
to crunch up the cool crisp leaves. We drank more tea, then rode on
again amid the salaams of the Turkomans. At last we came in sight of
the trees, the cupola and minarets of the town of Mazár-i-Sherif. This
was no phantom scene. A great crowd of people on foot and on horseback
came to meet us. I noticed that many of them kissed the hand of Jan
Mahomed, those on horseback dismounting to do so.[4] I also noticed
that one man running by the side of Jan Mahomed had a rifle slung
backwards under his arm, and that the barrel kept persistently in a
line with my head. It annoyed me. I could not get out of the way of the
brute. I need not have been disturbed, the gun was not in the least
likely to have been loaded: powder was too expensive.

[4] I was very sorry to hear recently, that Jan Mahomed Khan is no
longer living: a machine gun exploded and he was killed.

We reached the town at five in the afternoon, rode through the gate
along the narrow bazaar to the Palace. We dismounted under some big
plane-trees growing by a tank in the outer garden of the Palace, and
the report of our arrival was taken to His Highness the Amîr. The pages
and other officials crowded round, busily brushed the white dust off
us, and brought us bowls of iced water. Thirst! I knew what it was now!
Ride for ten hours over a dusty plain, with the thermometer over 100°
in the shade, and anything you like in the sun, and see.

Word was brought that His Highness would receive us the next day. Jan
Mahomed then handed me over to the care of one of the court officials,
the “Ferash-Bashi,” or “Keeper of the Carpets.” This was a short stout
gentleman of few words, and with a sour expression.

He was dressed rather gorgeously in a cashmere tunic, gold-bedecked
belt, trousers, high boots and turban. When I got to know him better,
I thought he was not such a villain as he looked. This gentleman
conducted me, accompanied by the Armenian, to a house near the Palace.
We passed through a covered porch, guarded by a pair of heavy gates,
into a garden surrounded by high walls: went along the stone-paved
paths, up some steps into a suite of rooms on the north side of the
garden. The rooms were beautifully carpeted, and looked very bright
and handsome in the setting sun. The “Bashi” informed us that he had
orders to send dinner from the Amîr’s kitchen; then politely saying
“Binishinēd”--take a seat--he departed. Seeing there was no seat to
take, I took the floor, and waited hungrily till dinner should arrive.
I had not long to wait, and was delighted to see the servants bring a
portable chair and table, with the dinner. I don’t remember what the
different courses were, but the dinner was European--soup, joint, and
entrées--and ended with a very delicious ice-pudding and fruit.

This house, which His Highness was kind enough to put at my service,
is of interest. Here, His Highness himself lived, before he built the
Mazar Palace. Here, too, Sirdar Ishak, in the days when he was Governor
of Turkestan, kept the ladies of his harem; and here Amîr Shere Ali
lived--and died--in the very room I was dining in.

[Sidenote: Story of the Death of Amîr Shere Ali.]

Amîr Shere Ali had been friendly with the British: troubles arose, and
he turned to the Russians. The British occupied Quetta in 1876, and
in 1878 the Amîr received a mission from Russia. A British mission
being refused entry into the Kyber, war was proclaimed. I need not
trace the outline of the war; it is enough to say that Amîr Shere
Ali did not receive the help he expected from Russia, and he fled to
Mazár-i-Sherif. Here he was seized with his old enemy, gout--a disease
that is hereditary in this reigning family.[5]

[5] There is a saying in Kabul that only those of the family suffer
from gout who afterwards occupy the throne; and since Prince Nasrullah,
the second son, has had twinges of pain in one of his lower limbs, some
have looked upon him as a probable successor to the throne!

They say that he was being attended by a Russian physician, and that
the pain being very severe the physician introduced some medicine
beneath the skin; then escaping by night to the Oxus he crossed into
Russian territory. In the morning Amîr Shere Ali was found dead. For
some days his death was concealed, but finally the fact was betrayed by
a serving woman.

At once the soldiers of the regular army commenced looting. The Palace
was stripped; then the bazaars and the wealthier people suffered,
and soon there was a pandemonium of riot, robbery, and murder. This
having occurred once, the fear is lest it may occur again. Many of the
well-to-do natives of Afghanistan have that dread; and at the time when
the present Amîr was severely ill, in 1890, there was such trepidation
and anxiety in Kabul, that many of the well-to-do concealed their more
portable valuables by burying them in the earth, and sought for safer
retreats outside the town, to which they could hurry in time of need.

[Sidenote: The House.]

The house did not differ from those of the richer Kabulis. The
windowless twenty-feet-high walls, in addition to ensuring privacy,
enabled the occupant on closure of the massive doors to convert his
house into a place of defence. It was partly overlooked, however, by
one tower or observatory built on the top of a high house some little
distance off. It was here, I was informed, that Sirdar Ishak lived. He
could, therefore, catch a glimpse of the ladies of his harem when they
were walking on the roof.

The large square garden was filled with fruit-trees and flowers: roses,
wallflowers, sweet-williams; and in the centre was a movable wooden
platform. In nearly every garden in Afghanistan you find, in some
shady place, generally by the side of the stream that ripples through
the garden, a platform a foot or two high, either of wood or carefully
smoothed earth. Here the Afghan, in his loose native garb, loves to
spread his carpet and sit in the hot summer afternoons lulled by the
murmur of the water, lazily talk to his friends and drink unlimited
tea. I have done it myself.

On the north side were my rooms raised six steps above the garden.
Passing up the steps to the lobby one entered the outer room with
its seven arched windows overlooking the garden, its one huge carpet
covering the floor, and, passing through, reached the inner room,
parallel and of the same size. There were the white sparkling walls
ornamented with frieze and dado, the arched niches or takchahs, with
small mirrors between them, the fireplace with ornamental mouldings,
the draped ceiling and the smooth earth floor with beautiful rugs
that are usual in the homes of the wealthiest Afghans. The inner room
was lit from the outer by a triple arched window, filled with stained
glass, which reached nearly to the floor. It was in this room that
Shere Ali died. It is said that on the takchah over the fireplace there
was left in the hurry when Ishak fled, the sum of R80,000 in gold.
At any rate, while I was there, one of the Court officials was fined
heavily by the Amîr for appropriating the money.

The rooms appointed to the interpreter and servants adjoined mine, but
were uncarpeted and less elaborately ornamented. On the south side of
the garden the rooms were occupied by one of the chamberlains, Mirza
Abdur Rashid. The Mirza was an excellent fellow, and we were friends
during my whole stay in Afghanistan. He was a pure-blooded Afghan about
my own age, with handsome features, and a skin so dark as to be nearly
black. For an Afghan he was well educated, and it was his duty night
after night to read aloud to His Highness the records of the kingdom
and books translated into Persian, of travel, geography, history, and
general information.[6]

[6] I have heard recently that the Mirza, following the example of
other misguided Afghans, endeavoured to escape from the country into
India. Unfortunately for him he was one of the unsuccessful ones. He
was seized, brought before the Amîr, and--Fate is now unkind to him.

On the east of the garden were rooms for the Afghan bath, and on the
west a colonnade where I kept my horses and where the soldiers of the
guard congregated. Night and day a sentry was on duty in the porch by
the big gates.




    To be presented. The Palace gardens. The Palace. The Amîr. The
    Presentation. Questions asked by His Highness. Another European
    present. Punishment of Rebellions in Afghanistan. Asiatic motives
    from European standpoint. Departure of the Captain. Amîr’s
    arrangements for my safety. Bazaars and houses of Mazar. The
    suburbs. The Military Hospital. The Patients and their condition.
    The medical attendants. Afghan appreciation of European medical
    treatment. The daily routine. Insubordination of Hospital
    assistants. The two chief Hakims. Hindustani intrigue. Amîr’s sense
    of justice. The Trial. A Courtier’s influence. Breakfast under the
    almond trees. The guard of the Amîr’s table.

[Sidenote: To be Presented.]

On the appointed day I accompanied Jan Mahomed Khan to the Palace, to
be presented to His Highness the Amîr. Mazar is a much smaller town
than Kabul, and as we had so short a distance to go we walked. The
bazaar and the streets bear a strong resemblance, in their squalor
and narrowness, to those of the larger town; we, however, were on the
outskirts where the roads were wide and the houses at intervals.

We reached the outer garden of the Palace, where we had dismounted on
our first arrival in the town, and word was at once taken in to His
Highness. After waiting a few minutes the sentry at the gate admitted
us, and we entered the inner garden. This appeared to be extensive, and
was so filled with almond and other fruit-trees as almost to resemble
a wood. Along by the paths were planted sweet-smelling flowers. There
were page boys and other officials walking about, and presently we
came in sight of the Palace. In front was a large open space free from
trees and flowers, and protected from the sun by a crimson and white
awning. This was in place of a “Hall of Audience,” where congregate
those who have petitions to offer or disputes to settle.

Between the open space and the Palace ran a stream of water about six
feet wide, which meandered through the garden. The Palace was small.
It resembled in style a bungalow, such as one sees in India. There was
a broad and high verandah supported on carved wooden pillars, a high
sloping roof, and large windows on each side of the centre door: the
one on the left reaching nearly to the ground.

We drew nearer, everyone making way, and we saw, surrounded by pages
and courtiers, that remarkable man who, had he lived a century
ago, would in all probability have been, not the petty prince of
a half-barren country, but the great conqueror of the East--“Amîr
Abdurrahman, Amîr of Afghanistan.”

He sat, a swarthy heavily-built man, with broad white forehead and
piercing eyes; his stooping attitude, with head advanced, showed little
of grace, but seemed the personification of watchful strength; as the
full-lipped mouth and square jaw betokened the inflexible will.

Almost Persian in type, with the aquiline semi-Jewish features and
coal-black hair of his race, he added to the courtesy of the Oriental
something of the bluff heartiness of an Englishman.

We had crossed the stream by a foot-bridge, but had paused at a little
distance from His Highness. Jan Mahomed receiving a sign, went quickly
forward, knelt at the feet of the Amîr, kissed his hand and pressed it
to his forehead and eyes; then, rising, he presented me to His Highness.

[Sidenote: Questions asked by His Highness.]

The Amîr welcomed me to his country, and courteously expressed a hope
that I was not fatigued by the long and trying journey. A chair was
placed, and His Highness, desiring me to be seated, asked me many
questions as to my medical experiences. In particular, he asked what
opportunities I had had of studying the disease, Gout--“neqris.” I
said that in Europe “gout” was called the “English disease,” and that
as all my professional life had been spent in London, I had had many
opportunities of studying and treating this complaint. His Highness
then described to me the symptoms that he suffered from, and showed
me where the pain seized him. He traced out exactly the course of the
sciatic nerve, and I saw that, whatever else he might suffer from,
there was no doubt whatever that he had chronic sciatica. He asked
also many questions in Science and Natural History, with the object,
presumably, of testing one’s general knowledge. He did not, however,
enquire concerning my Degrees or Diplomas in Medicine, though he well
knew of the existence of such things.

His Highness’s words were translated by an Interpreter at the Court--a
Hindustani who spoke English exceedingly well. I confess I was glad the
Armenian was not, at that time, called upon to perform this duty, or I
am afraid my answers would have been less to the point. However, later
the Armenian became very fluent, and I learnt to understand him.

Seated some little distance from the Amîr was another European, Captain
(now Major) C. L. Griesbach, C.I.E. This gentleman, I heard, had been
with the Amîr some two years as Geologist. When my “examination”
was satisfactorily over, permission was given us to retire, and I
accompanied Captain Griesbach to his house and dined with him. The
Captain informed me he was not remaining much longer with the Amîr,
but was returning to India to continue his service under the British
Government. After dinner he sketched the character of the Amîr, and
gave me a good deal of information as to the life in Turkestan. He had
heard of the terrible punishment that had been inflicted on the rebel
followers of Sirdar Ishak and their unfortunate families. One form
of punishment appeared to have been introduced from Russia. Men were
described as being tied, in the bitter winter of Turkestan, naked, to
a post; water was thrown over them, and they were left to freeze: a
strong man would last two days. Girls had been fastened to the earth
and tortured; women and children sold as slaves--and much more.

I came away in anything but a cheerful state of mind.

[Sidenote: Asiatic Motives from European Standpoint.]

By whose orders had these things been done? I asked myself. Who was
responsible for them? The Prince, whose service I had just entered? He
whom I was to attend in sickness; to the preservation of whose health I
was to devote all my knowledge and skill? I tried to believe not; that
the deeds had been done without his knowledge; that the stories were
exaggerated: anything than that they were true; but the horror of it
all remained with me long. As the months went by, however, I perceived
that to view the conduct of an Asiatic ruler over a turbulent country
from the standpoint of Western nineteenth century civilization, is to
commit not only an error, but an injustice. It is an error, for it
leads one to quite wrong conclusions as to the character of the chief
actor: the Amîr was simply proclaiming, in language that Asiatics
understand, his determination of being king in Afghanistan. It is
an injustice, for education and civilization _cannot_ advance with
such strides in an isolated Eastern country as in Europe; and without
the progress of knowledge the sons cannot learn better than their
fathers. Again, the Mahomedan religion--does it uphold forgiveness,
long-suffering, pity, and humility, as virtues? On the contrary, it
claims an eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth. It tends rather to
encourage cruelty, for it spreads its very tenets by slaughter. With
what justice, then, could I view these things from our Nineteenth
century standpoint, seeing that less than two hundred years ago, with
_our_ religion, similar deeds were committed among us.

A fortnight after my arrival, Captain Griesbach departed for India. He
was accompanied by the Interpreter who had translated for me before
the Amîr: His Highness had desired the Interpreter to remain in his
service, but the man refused.

During the interview when I was presented, His Highness had directed me
to take charge of the military hospital in Mazar. Remembering the men
in Tash Kurghán, I wondered what I should see. Early in the morning I
rode off, accompanied only by the Armenian. His Highness had decided
that in Turkestan it was unnecessary for me to be followed everywhere
by a guard of soldiers. He was my guard, he said, “and the Mazaris
are little likely to injure one for whose arrival they have been
anxiously watching.” One or two precautions he directed the Armenian
to take. He was not to conduct me out on the plains more than a mile
from the city--this on account of Turkoman highwaymen; nor near a gang
of prisoners, for they were dangerous men, and in spite of search
carried concealed weapons; nor near a regiment of soldiers with fixed
bayonets--for as he significantly put it, “They have attempted even
_my_ life!”

The way to the hospital was through the narrow, covered bazaar or
market-place. This was crowded with people, and caravans of camels and
pack-mules from Kabul and Bokhara.

[Sidenote: Houses and Plains of Mazar.]

The rough roofing of the bazaar forms a grateful shelter from the
scorching sun. The shops are similar to those of Kabul. After the
bazaar come winding streets among the houses. Space here is not so
limited as in Kabul, and though the streets are no wider, the houses
are less lofty. In style they differ much from the Kabul houses;
generally, the rooms are square, eight or nine feet high, with a domed
brickwork roof. One, two, or more rooms, side by side, for master,
servants, and horses, constitute the house. Often there are no windows,
light being admitted through the door and through an aperture in the
centre of the domed roof. This last acts also, when a wood fire is
lighted, as a convenient chimney. The sandali, however, is generally
used in the winter. The houses stand in an enclosed yard or garden,
but since the domed roofs of the houses are not used for the promenade
as are those of Kabul, the garden-walls have no need to be more than
seven or eight feet high. This style of house is peculiar to Turkestan,
though there are, in the suburbs of Mazar, many houses precisely like
those of Kabul. The walls, built of sun-dried bricks and coated with
mud, become painfully white and glaring in the summer sun.

We reached one of the gates of the town and rode out. Here, in the
suburbs, are the summer gardens of the richer men. Far away are the
mountains, blue in the distance. Mazar lies on a malarious, almost
desert plain in Turkestan, nine miles east of the ancient city Balkh,
and thirty miles south of the Pata Kesar ferry, on the Oxus river, so
that we were near the Russian frontier.

The plain is desert, because of the absence of water. When the snow
melts in the warmth of the spring, the plain becomes a blaze of red
flowers, wild tulips--poppies, my Interpreter said: but these shrivel
up and die in the summer. The gardens of the town, and the fields
immediately around it, are irrigated by an artificial canal, made, I
was told, by the Amîr’s father during the few months he reigned. They
said the water was brought south from the Oxus, but I fancy it must
come from the mountains towards Malmul.

The hospital, a short distance out of the town, was once the suburban
house and garden of a wealthy man.

The patients lay in the garden: some were under the trees, others were
protected by long thatched roofs supported on poles. None were in the
house. In Tash Kurghán the patients with festering wounds were shut
in a house when they should have been out in the open. Here they were
out in the open, lying on the earth, and dying by scores from malarial
fever. They should have been in the house, which was cool, and raised
four or five feet above the earth.

There were about three hundred patients when I arrived, most of them
down with severe Remittent fever. The Hakims were treating the fever by
bleeding, purging, and starvation. Had they left the men untreated some
of them might have recovered: as it was, the victims were being carried
out five and six a day. In spite of their want of success, the Hakims
continued blindly and persistently with their mode of treatment.

I walked round examining the patients and determining what I would
do. Evidently it was useless taking the poor fellows who were already
drained of their blood by the Hakims. I must take the new comers if I
was to succeed in the essential object of medical treatment, that of
curing the patient. I therefore directed that all new comers--and they
poured into the hospital--should be taken to the inner garden and their
beds arranged in the vacant rooms of the house there. A sentry was
posted at the gate of the inner garden, with orders to shoot any Hakim
attempting to enter.

One room contained a heterogeneous collection of European drugs and
surgical instruments. In a small room on the roof lived a Hindustani
hospital assistant--the gentlemanly dipsomaniac whom I have already
introduced. There were two other Hindustani assistants, but they were
utterly and hopelessly ignorant. These men happily had spared the
patients. They had done no work at all.

I had, therefore, the first day seven or eight new cases secluded from
the rest under my own hands, and, excluding bribery, beyond the reach
of Hakims. After some months, when I had become known, I found whom I
could trust, and did not take such stringent precautions.

[Sidenote: Afghan Appreciation of Medical Treatment.]

I made a preliminary round of my cases with a note-book, for, at that
time, distinguish Mahomed Akbar from Mahomed Hassan, and him from
Mahomed Hussain or Gul Mahomed, I could not. I then made a second round
with medicines, which were administered before me; for the possibility
of bribery occurred to me, and I knew the Hakims would shrink from
nothing to bring discredit upon a Feringhi interloper. My wards filled
rapidly, and for a week I had no deaths, the fever yielding readily
to quinine. The difference in the mortality after European and after
native treatment was naturally striking, and the news spread far and
wide, especially among the soldiers, the poorer townsfolk and the
peasants, so that I soon had far more work before me than I could
possibly get through in the day.

The way my time was allotted may be interesting.

After a light breakfast I galloped off to the hospital at daybreak, to
escape the intense heat. Having completed my rounds there I returned
home about eleven, washed and changed, putting on a dry suit of
flannel; then, lying on a couch in the inner room, with all the doors
and windows shut to keep out the heat, I munched some of the most
delicious fruit--peaches, grapes, and melons--that it has ever been my
good fortune to taste. At this time I had not become saturated with
malaria, and I could eat fruit without any evil resulting. I slept
for an hour, had lunch, and at two o’clock repaired to an underground
room, which was comparatively cool, to see the patients, townsfolk, and
soldiers who had been gathering in crowds round the house. I continued
attending to them till six in the evening and then ceased, whether
there were many or few remaining. After dinner I saw the one or two
favoured ones who had obtained from the Amîr a special order for me to
visit them at their homes.

I had at first some little trouble with the Hindustanis. Work was
uncongenial to them. Only one of them, my friend the drunkard, had any
medical knowledge, even such preliminary attainment as the use of the
stethoscope. Of the other two, one I made a compounder, and the other a
dresser of wounds.

Having one day to amputate a thumb, I desired the dresser to remain
at the hospital and administer chloroform. He objected, saying he had
finished his work for the day. He did not understand English, but spoke
in Hindustani, in which language my Armenian was fluent. I said several
things, more or less severe, which my interpreter translated, but the
Hindustani went on his way. Had I then been acquainted with Afghan
customs I should at once have ordered a soldier to thrash him, but such
a procedure would have been unprecedented in a London hospital, and I
did not do so. Instead, I wrote to His Highness to enquire if I had
authority over the Hindustanis or not. His Highness answered that I had
authority over all the Hindustanis and Hakims in the kingdom, with the
exception of three men--one Hindustani and the two chief Hakims. He
added, that if there were any insubordination I was at liberty to order
the offender to be whipped or put in irons.

[Sidenote: The Two Chief Hakims.]

The Hindustani over whom I had no authority was a qualified man, who
had been hospital assistant in the British Army, but who, accused
of murdering his superior officer, an Englishman, had escaped into
Afghanistan. The Amîr found him a beggar by the wayside and took him
into his service, appointing him to attend to the slaves of the harem.
He was at the time of which I am writing, in Kabul. The Hakims who were
excepted were two old men who had attended the Amîr’s father. One, the
Mirza Abdul Wahid, was an interesting old man, with wrinkled face of a
Roman type. I read of him in a Russian book that Captain Griesbach lent
me. For a Hakim he was an intelligent man, and I had a respect and a
liking for the courtly old fellow. He died while I was in Turkestan,
and I went to see him shortly before his death. With a courtesy that
pained me he rose from his sickbed and ordered tea and sweetmeats to be

The other Hakim, Abdul Rashid, was a fat old fool, pompous and
ignorant, with many words. He came to see me--but I will relate that
presently. The chair he sat on never recovered. It was rickety ever

[Sidenote: Hindustani Intrigue.]

I knew now what my powers were. The Hindustanis did not openly rebel
again, but they hatched a plot which, had they been more careful, might
have led to unpleasant results. First, as I afterwards heard, one of
them, the one whom I had made compounder, appealed to the Amîr for
protection. I was his enemy, he said. _His_ enemy! But the Amîr waited
and watched. It _might_ be true, India is a conquered country. His
Highness appeared to take but little notice of me. He was courteous as
always, and allowed me to be seated in his presence; but he spoke very
little to me. The Hindustani, however, marred his own plot, for, not
content with opposing me, he needs must quarrel with his countrymen
instead of standing by them. He made a false accusation against the
“dresser,” who, on his part, made a countermove. They were arrested
and brought before the Amîr, each swearing a contradiction to the
other. They were both put to the torture--the “wedge and post”--and the
compounder, screaming with fright, gave in at once and confessed. He
was dismissed the service.

He knelt, imploring pardon and permission to stay; but the Amîr said,
“I send you away for your own good. Twice you were taken in adultery,
and, as a foreigner, I spared you. Now you falsely accuse and endeavour
to ruin your own countryman. Go, before I kill you.”

I think I have not described the “wedge and post.” It is a simple
thing. There is an upright post in the earth. The criminal is seated on
the ground and his feet lashed to the post; wedges are inserted between
the sole of the foot and the post, and are hammered home. It is a
painful process, they say, but a dogged Afghan will sit till the bones
of both feet are crushed, before he will utter a sound.

The Hindustani before he departed came to take leave of me--his enemy!
the coachman is not an enemy to the horses. I gave him some tea and
sent him away, but I noticed he did not limp; he must have given in
soon at the post.

Then the other one, the dresser, linked the drunkard with him, and they
aimed, not at me, but at the Armenian. They would cut him off. Now this
fellow had been honest according to his lights. Every piece of advice
he gave me I found to be sound: he instructed me in the customs of the
country, described what should be done at festivals, what at visits
of condolence; told me who were the dangerous men and who the true
servants of His Highness; prevented my servants robbing me, and though
he was rough and unpolished he had showed to me in a hundred minor ways
a careful thought almost amounting to affection. Added to this, his dry
humour and his yarns in broken English had whiled away many a dull hour
when, as a newcomer, the sense of utter loneliness had oppressed me. He
seemed my one friend. Was I to go back on him?

The Hindustanis wrote to His Highness accusing the Armenian, among
other things, of translating the Amîr’s words to me falsely--a most
serious matter. But how could they know the Armenian translated falsely
if they did not understand English? The drunkard understood, though he
spoke “book English,” and haltingly; hence the necessity of him in the

I saw the Armenian one day looking very dejected, and I asked him what
was the matter. He told me of the accusation that had just been made
against him.

“Perhaps Amîr Sahib kill me,” he said.

Wishing to cause him as much distress as possible, the Hindustanis had
shown their hand. It was a weak thing to do. The original conception
was crafty, for I saw at once how difficult a thing it was to rebut;
and then, too, it was just the idea to “catch on” in the mind of an
Oriental monarch. How could I say the Armenian translated correctly
when I understood little or no Persian?

If anything was to be done it must be done promptly. I determined,
therefore, to carry the war into the enemy’s camp, and I sat down at
once and wrote to His Highness in English.

I said it had come to my ears that these men--mentioning their
names--had accused my Interpreter of translating falsely; that I had
no reason to believe the accusation was true, for I found the accusers
unworthy of trust. I then proceeded to explain why; describing the
drunkenness of the one and the ignorance of the other; and pointed out
their neglect of duty, naming a man of position as witness in each
case that I brought forward. I was, fortunately, able to do this, for
in two or three surgical operations that I had had to do, when they
showed themselves neglectful and incompetent, there had been men of
position, military officers, who witnessed the operation. I sent for
the secretary of Col. Attaullah Khan, then British agent with the Amîr,
who understood English, asked him to translate for me, mentioning in
the letter that he had done so, and at once sent the translation in to
His Highness.

[Sidenote: Amîr’s Sense of Justice.]

That night the Amîr sent for the witnesses and examined them. The
next morning a messenger arrived with a written order from the Amîr
that I was to bring the Armenian before him on the following day; the
Hindustanis were to be accompanied by one of their countrymen, or
rather a Kashmiri, who spoke English fluently. This man was a civil
engineer who had served the Amîr for some eight years--a clever man,
well known at the Foreign Office in India.[7]

[7] This man has since been executed for treason: he was smothered.

I felt some amount of nervous disturbance, wondering what turn the
affair might take. I had not been long in the country, and I did not
know what were the possibilities of the case. The whole story of the
Hindustanis is, in itself, unimportant. What does it matter whether
they rebelled against me or not? But it brings forward one trait of the
Amîr’s character--his sense of what is fair--and for that reason I have
related it.

The morning came.

The Armenian, with a white face, silently walked with me to the Palace.
It was a sunny warm morning, the fruit-trees in the garden were in
full bloom, and I remember the scent of the flowers, as we walked
along the path. How is it, I wonder, that slight external impressions
dwell for ever in one’s memory when the mind is busily turned inwards?
The awning was not up, and we took our stand, the Armenian and I, in
the sun on the open space opposite the Palace. The two Hindustanis
came up looking very yellow, accompanied by the Kashmiri, who was an
intelligent looking man, with a dark skin. We waited a few minutes
without speaking, and then His Highness with some attendant pages came
from the Palace, and took his seat on an arm-chair on the verandah,
opposite to us. The natives “salaamed,” I bowed, and His Highness
touched his hat in acknowledgment. His Highness then addressed the
Kashmiri engineer in Persian. The engineer turned to me, he had my
letter in his hand; and he said in a severe manner:--

“I have here a letter purporting to be from you. I notice that it is
not dated.”

“Confound your impudence,” I thought, but I said nothing; I bowed.

“You know,” said he, approaching nearer and altering his manner, “that
this Armenian fellow cannot speak English, you had very much better----”

“Who asked for your advice, sir!” I said, turning on him suddenly. “His
Highness ordered you to enquire whether that letter were mine or not.”
This was a shot, for when His Highness spoke, I understood only two
words, “letter” and “doctor.”

The engineer appeared startled, and he said:--

“A learned man like yourself, the most scientific in Afghanistan, and
one on whose shoulders a grave responsibility rests, should have his
words translated exact in every detail. If you expressed a wish to
that effect, I am sure His Highness would engage from India at a large
salary, an interpreter----”

At it again, I thought.

“That is my letter, sir. Inform His Highness.” There appeared nothing
more to be said, and he turned to the Amîr and addressed him in Persian.

[Sidenote: A Courtier’s Influence.]

Then His Highness burst forth. I did not understand his words, but
there was no mistaking his manner--the knitted brow, the flashing eye
and the low rumble, lashing up to a roar. The storm descended upon the
heads of the two Hindustanis. They stood shivering, and from yellow
became green. _They_ knew, and I afterwards had frequent opportunities
of observing, that in moments like this the Amîr is dangerous; men’s
lives tremble in the balance. A clever man who has the entrée of
the Durbar, and who happens to be in favour, may sometimes on these
occasions, by dropping a word here and edging in a sentence there,
gradually turn the current of the Amîr’s thought. If he can also by
some appropriate witticism bring about a relaxation of the muscles of
that grim face, causing a smile or perhaps a laugh, then a man’s life
is saved. They, however, more often employ their wits in adding fuel to
the fire.

The Hindustanis crept away, and I was about to bow and retire, when His
Highness signed to me to stop. I was then informed that breakfast was
prepared under the almond trees in the garden, and His Highness desired
my company.

This was the first occasion on which the Amîr showed me any act of
familiar kindness, and my relief from suspense was such, that in
attempting to describe the breakfast I can hardly do full justice
to the situation. The air was balmy, as we sat in the shade of the
blossoming trees. Sweet-scented flowers were at our feet, and I sat
sipping tea and munching macaroons in the luxurious enjoyment of
living. The Armenian stood silently behind my chair, and I fancy he
too, though in a more realistic sense than I, felt the luxurious
enjoyment that mere life could afford.

His Highness spoke to me for some time, though I remember but little of
the conversation, except the more full description His Highness gave of
his bodily ailments. He did not yet ask me to prescribe for him.

When we reached home, I found my neighbour opposite, the Mirza
Abdur-Rashid, had a guest. They were drinking tea together in the
garden, and invited me to join them. The guest was a tall, very
handsome man, plainly dressed in grey military tunic and astrakhan
hat. He had very considerable dignity of manner, and was, I found, the
Sirdar Gholam Hussain, a relative of His Highness, of the same clan. It
is the duty of this gentleman to wait upon the Amîr at dinner, and to
take charge of all food laid before His Highness. It is an honourable
and also an onerous task in a country where the danger of poison is
ever before the King. The drinking water of His Highness is in charge
of a trusted page, the foster-brother of one of the Princes, and when,
some time after this, I was attending His Highness medically, this page
it was who was entrusted with the keys of the medicine cabinet.

[Sidenote: The Blind Singer.]

As we chatted over our tea, a blind boy came into the garden to sing.
He would have been much improved by a few lessons on voice production,
but for all that we listened to him with pleasure. His voice was soft
and sweet, with a pathetic ring in it.




    General Nassir Khan. The Story of the Shield. The Belgian’s
    Request. Escape of Allah Nûr: his Capture. The Amîr’s Decision.
    The Turkestan Commander-in-Chief. Operation on Allah Nûr. The
    Armenian’s Comments. Illness of Hadji Jan Mahomed. The Haughty
    Colonel: further comments by the Armenian. Sundry Acquaintances.
    Excursion to Takh-ta-Pûl. Fortune-telling among the Afghans. The
    Policeman-cook and the Lunch. Balkh. The Mosque at Mazar-i-Sherif
    and its Miracles. Called to His Highness. The Cool-air Pavilion:
    evil results of the same. Illness of the British Agent: the
    Armenian’s advice: the Answer from the Amîr. Brigadier Hadji-Gul
    Khan. Afghan Endurance of Suffering. The Country Cousin among the
    Court Pages. Euclid and Cards.

A few days after this I was sent for to see General Nassir Khan, who
was sick. He was a bent old man, but had been, I heard, a tiger to
fight. He was with the Amîr during His Highness’s exile in Asiatic
Russia. They said that he entered the Russian service, and rose to the
rank of Colonel. He did not, however, forget his master, for he sent
the greater part of his pay to the Amîr, retaining only enough for bare
necessaries. Concerning this old man, I heard a little story, which
throws a side-light on the Amîr, and may therefore be interesting.

[Sidenote: The Story of the Shield.]

There had been brought to His Highness, as a present, a very beautiful
shield inlaid with gold. This was when he had come to the throne, and
was Amîr.

Everyone in the Durbar Hall feasted his eyes upon this beautiful thing,
and the courtiers edged anxiously nearer the royal chair, in the hope
that “Amîr Sahib” might perhaps, as he sometimes did, bestow a present
upon a “faithful and deserving slave.” The Amîr slowly cast his eyes
round the ring, and each heart beat high, as the Amîr’s eyes rested a
moment on this man or that. Suddenly, the Amîr called out,

“Nassir, Pesh biár,” “come forward.”

Out of a far corner came Nassir. The Amîr turned to the anxious circle,
and said,

“Look upon this man. He was with me in Samarcànd.” The hearts of the
courtiers sank; Nassir, then, was to be the recipient of the shield.

“He was with me in Samarcànd, and for a little thing he turned and
cursed me. These were his words”--and the Amîr repeated the curse. “Is
this so?” he said to Nassir. The old man hung his head in shame.

“He cursed me; he half drew his sword on me, his master. What is this
man worthy of?”

There was a dead silence: the shield was forgotten, for behold Nassir’s
day had come. It had; but not in the sense anticipated.

“Give him the shield,” said the Amîr. “He was with me in Samarcànd.”

I should finish the story by saying Nassir treasured the shield as the
apple of his eye, and shewed it me with honest pride--but no, he sold
it next day for what it would fetch. Afghanistan!

When I went to see him he was suffering from lumbago. He was a courtly
old man, and he gave me black tea to drink, in a Russian tea-glass.

I saw him at the Court, some time afterwards, and he came up to speak
to me. He had a stoop in his shoulders, and the tailor had not cut his
tunic properly, so that he had unbuttoned the top two or three buttons
to release his throat. It was a gorgeous tunic, richly embroidered with
gold; his sword-belt and scabbard were loaded with plates of solid
gold, and he had an old-fashioned bowler hat, too large for him, on
the back of his head. I was sorry. It took so from the dignity of his
appearance; at least in my eyes: not so in the eyes of the Afghans, to
them it was quite _en règle_.

Shortly after my visit to the general, I developed, from being
constantly among the sick, a “Hospital throat,” and had to stop at
home for a day or two. His Highness sent me a very kind message of
condolence; and while I was at home there was brought to me, from
the Post Office, a post card written in French and addressed to the
“Postmaster-General, Afghanistan.” The Amîr wished to know what was
written. I found the card came from the Postmaster of some small
Belgian town. It was a proposal on his part to the Postmaster-General
of Afghanistan to exchange “stamps.” He was, he explained, a “stamp
collector.” With the help of the Armenian I sent a Persian translation
to His Highness. The Amîr directed me to write and enquire what was the
colour of the stamps the collector required: on receipt of his answer
they would be forwarded to him. I imagine His Highness considered that
the collection was more for artistic effect than on account of the
intrinsic value of the stamps. The Belgian received his stamps in due

Just at this time, too, I received a letter from the Editor of one
of the Indian papers asking me to contribute a series of articles on
Afghanistan. As, however, I was in the service of the Amîr I did not
feel justified in doing so, and was compelled to leave the letter

[Sidenote: The Escape of Allah Nûr.]

Another incident also occurred. There was in the Hospital a soldier
named Allah Nûr. He was suffering from disease of the elbow, which had
advanced to such a degree that the joint was completely disorganized.
The Hakims had promised to cure him by the application of ointments.
I explained to him, however, that this was impossible, and that the
only remedy was to remove the arm. Poor Allah Nûr had been ill a long
time: he was much reduced by pain and constant discharge, and he begged
me from day to day to postpone the operation. He explained his dread
of the knife, of which he seemed ashamed, by calling attention to his
pitiable state of weakness. When I was laid up with my throat he seized
the opportunity one night to make his escape from the Hospital: he got
on a donkey which some kind friend had provided, and managed to reach a
place called Takh-ta-Pul, some three or four miles off, before he was

The next morning he was brought back and taken before the Amîr. His
Highness said:--

“A child or a fool is he who runs from his Physician.”

He sent for a probe and proceeded to examine the joint.

“Without doubt the limb must come off,” said he.

“Barâie Khuda!” said Allah Nûr.

“Be silent!” said the Amîr.

“For God’s sake, do not. My Lord----”

The Amîr reached out his Royal hand and boxed his ear. Allah Nûr was
conducted back to the Hospital. That afternoon, my throat being better,
I attended the military Durbar. His Highness discussed with me the case
of Allah Nûr, advising amputation.

“It would appear wise, however,” said he, “considering the man’s
condition of weakness, to postpone the operation for a few days,
feeding him meanwhile on strong soups and administering ‘Portwein.’”

I need not say that I entirely concurred.

His Highness then spoke of other matters. He explained why he walked
so little and was carried from place to place in his palanquin. It was
on account of the pain he suffered from chronic sciatica. The horses
reserved for his riding were chosen for their steadiness, and he had
ordered them to be led about the streets after dark to cure them of
any habit they might have of shying. In moving, even from one chair to
another, he found the assistance of a walking-stick necessary. He spoke
also very kindly to me concerning my professional work, and finally
asked me to visit an old friend of his who was sick--the Hadji Jan

Things were going well with me evidently, for directly the Durbar
was over the Commander-in-Chief in Turkestan came up to speak to
me and we walked out of the Palace gardens hand-in-hand:--I hate
walking hand-in-hand with a man. He was very chatty, and asked me
to visit a Colonel of his who was ill. The name of the Turkestan
Commander-in-Chief was Gholam Hydar, but he was a man of a much smaller
frame than his namesake the Commander-in-Chief in Kabul. Also he bore
a most startling resemblance to Dr. Lauder Brunton, F.R.S., the London
Physician. No two brothers could be more alike. They were the same
build. The very beard and moustache were trimmed in the same fashion.
The only difference I could see was that Dr. Brunton is fair and the
Suparsalar Gholam Hydar Khan was dark. I had, therefore, from the
beginning a pre-disposition in favour of Gholam Hydar on account of his
resemblance to my former teacher.

[Sidenote: The Operation on Allah Nûr.]

The next morning on arriving at the Hospital I found Allah Nûr only
too ready to have his arm amputated. While he had been away from the
Hospital the flies in that hot climate had found access to the sore,
and there were maggots squirming about in the joint. It was very
horrible. There was no postponing the operation now.

We had no operating table, and Allah Nûr was laid on a mound of earth
in the shade of a tree in the garden. I arranged the instruments near
and took off my turban lest it should obstruct my view at a critical
moment. I put the man under chloroform, screwed up the tourniquet, and
ordered the Armenian to hold the arm steady. There were two or three
sweeping cuts, the grate of the saw, and the arm was off midway between
shoulder and elbow.

The Afghans in the Hospital made an interested ring of spectators. One
of the Hindustanis, however, nearly fainted, and the Armenian said:

“Sir, I very glad you quick, my head is go round and round, and my eye
is like I drink a bottle of brandy and a bottle of rum mixed--all is
blood!” I did not ask him to help in an operation again.

After dressing the stump and seeing that Allah Nûr had recovered
properly from the chloroform and was comfortable, I rode off to see His
Highness’s old friend, the Hadji Jan Mahomed.

I found that the Hadji lived in a typical Turkestan house in the
outskirts of the town. There was the row of isolated dome-shaped rooms
or houses side by side, and in front a large garden almost entirely
covered with grape vines. These ran along ridges of earth about six
feet apart, each being some three feet high and six feet wide.

The Hadji was a venerable-looking old fellow of about seventy, with
a long white beard. He was of the same tribe as His Highness--the
Barakzai Durani.

After tea and fruit had been brought, and we had had some general
conversation, the Hadji informed me that he had lately arrived from
Bokhara, and was suffering from a disease of the leg that is prevalent
in that district. On examination I found he was suffering from “Guinea
worm,” a thread-like creature some two or three feet long, that burrows
through the tissues of the body, generally infesting the feet and
legs. The treatment adopted at the present day is the same as that
pursued by the old Persian surgeons, who extracted the worm by gentle
and continuous traction, winding the exposed end of the worm round a
small stick of ivory, bone or wood. If the worm is broken, local and
even severe constitutional mischief is apt to ensue, and this is what
had happened to the Hadji. The attempt to extract the worm had been
unsuccessful, it had been broken. He had been exceedingly ill, he
said; and I found a large burrowing chronic abscess above the right
knee. It was a troublesome case, and I visited him several times. At
last, one day I had the good fortune to detect the broken end of the
worm, and with the greatest gentleness and care managed to extract it.
The leg then soon healed.

[Sidenote: The Haughty Colonel.]

After I had visited the Hadji, who, by the way, presented me with half
a pound of Orange Pekoe, I went to see the young Colonel whom the
Commander-in-Chief had asked me to visit. His house was not very far
from the Palace gardens, and I found him seated on a charpoy under
the trees in his garden: one or two friends and a Hakim sat with him.
He was a small dark man with a haughty expression, but he looked very
ill. He had had fever, but was now suffering from suppuration of the
parotid, so that he had a great unbroken abscess in his cheek and neck.

I examined him carefully and decided that the abscess should be
opened without delay. He did not, however, view the suggestion with
any favour. He told me, very politely, that he should prefer applying
certain ointments that had been advised by his friend the Hakim.
I do not remember the name of the Hakim. He was one of the minor
practitioners whom I really never took note of.

The Colonel also explained that should the ointment not have the
desired effect, he would wish to try the efficacy of prayer. After
this, what was there to be said? I bowed, refused the tea he politely
offered, and begged permission to withdraw.

Coming away I said to the Armenian:--

“What infernal nonsense it is calling me to fellows like that.”

“Yes, sir,” said the Armenian, “he is fool man. And that Hakim! he is
nothing. His _father_ cannot sit in your presence.” This was soothing,
perhaps. As we were going home I met little Mahomed Omer, son of
Perwana Khan, the Deputy Commander-in-Chief in Kabul. He was a bright
little lad of about thirteen. His face was distinctly of the Tartar
type. We grew very friendly, and he often came with his tutor or “Lala”
to see me. I gave him my felt hat, and he walked about proudly with it
over his ears.

[Sidenote: A Day at Takh-ta-Pul.]

Soon after this I went to Takh-ta-Pul, the place where my friend
Allah Nûr had escaped to, in order to inspect the hospital there. The
Commander-in-Chief sent a Captain--Seyd Hussain--a huge Afghan hillman,
some six feet three inches high, to accompany me, so one morning he
and I and the Armenian and some servants rode off together. Seyd
Hussain was quite a friend of mine; he came very often to see me, and
afterwards said such polite things, that the Commander-in-Chief used
to call him my “son.” We took about an hour over our ride: it was so
excessively hot. When we arrived at Takh-ta-Pul, I called upon the
Commander-in-Chief, who was there for a few days, had tea with him,
and was then conducted to a house prepared for me. I was shown into an
upper chamber, carpeted and decorated, which overlooked the garden, a
large square one with trees and flowers, and commanded a view of the
town and the distant mountains.

My “son” came too, and five or six others, including the Armenian,
to amuse me. They sang songs, told stories, and the captain read my
future in the palm of my hand: I was surprised to find palmistry an
Afghan accomplishment. He told me I should have two severe illnesses
in the country, but should return to my native land in safety. We had
grapes and tea, and, at about one o’clock, tiffin or lunch. There was
roast mutton, I remember, exceedingly oily, which one of my servants,
the groom, had cooked for me. This gentleman, whom I had picked
up--or rather the Armenian had picked up for me--in Turkestan, was a
Peshawuri. He had been a policeman in Burma, he said. He also said he
could make a pudding; and he did, a watery rice pudding. Then a pillow
was brought, and I lay on the floor and slept for an hour. After that
we had more songs and stories, and at six, when the heat of the day
had gone, I called again on the Commander-in-Chief and had more tea.
He wished me to stay the night, but I remembered I had not inspected
the Hospital yet, besides, for all I knew, the Amîr might want me. I
decided therefore not to stop.

We started off for the Hospital, which was a little way out of the
town. It was precisely like that of Mazar, except that there were only
five or six patients in it. These were looked after by a Hakim. In the
evening the Captain, the Armenian, and I rode back to Mazar, and I
prepared my report for the Amîr. One thing I often regret: it is that
I did not at this time act on the Armenian’s suggestion and ride to
the ancient city Balkh, which was only some six or seven miles beyond
Takh-ta-Pul. However, I had the feeling that I had taken a day off at
Takh-ta-Pul, and must not waste any more time when there were so many
sick waiting for treatment. Balkh, “the mother of cities,” is situated
in a province capable of great cultivation, and was a flourishing city
in the time of Alexander the Great. The population, however, was so
nearly exterminated by Ghengis Khan, and again by Tamerlane and his
successors, that it is doubtful whether it will ever again recover even
a moiety of its former importance.

There is at Mazar-i-Sherif a great Mosque or Temple, from which the
town takes its name. It is a huge ornate building with minarets, and a
lofty cupola built of a shining blue stone. It is held in veneration by
all Mussulmans, but more especially by the sect of Shiahs. The Mosque
contains a tomb which is supposed to be that of Ali, son-in-law of
Mahomed, though some European authorities consider that Ali was buried
near Baghdad. Be that as it may, the Mosque possesses considerable
revenues, the gifts of wealthy votaries and other pious people, which
are used to feed the crowds of indigent pilgrims who, at certain times
in the year, flock in great numbers to Mazar. Moreover, the remains of
Ali, or whoever the gentleman may be, are capable of working miracles
of no mean order. They restore sight to the blind, hearing to the deaf,
and health to the sick. During one of the religious festivals which
occurred while I was in Turkestan, there were no less than five men
whose sight had been restored by their pilgrimage to the Mosque! I know
this is true, for the Amîr told me so himself!

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Cool-air Pavilion.]

One morning His Highness sent for me to examine his ear. He fancied he
had some insect in it. This was in July, and the weather was very hot.
I found His Highness seated in a small circular pavilion in the Palace
garden. I had often wondered what this little building was. It was a
cool-air chamber. There was a door and one window. This window was
filled in with interlaced branches of an aromatic shrub; water from a
gutter trickled over the lattice work, and a current of air was driven
in by a paddlewheel fan, which a man outside worked with a handle. I
was ushered into the semi-darkness of the room; I bowed, and a chair
was placed midway between the door and the window in an awful draught.
After the hot dry air of the outside this horrible little room felt
like an ice well. I literally shivered, and there sat His Highness in
the full draught, and, what is most unusual, without a head covering.

It was too dark in the Pavilion to see the condition of the ear, and
His Highness at once consented to come out into the open. A chair
was brought, and His Highness sat with bare head in the blazing sun.
“Surely there is danger of sunstroke,” I thought.

I begged permission to put on my helmet, saying I was afraid of the
sun. I thought His Highness might then cover his own head; no, he did
not seem to mind the heat. I examined the ear with the speculum and
found nothing in it. He had, however, a slight catarrh of the throat
and of the Eustachian tube leading from the throat to the inner ear.
I pointed out the danger of exposing the body while the skin is
acting freely to a draught of cold damp air; and indicated the line of
treatment I should adopt if I were to attend to the ear. His Highness
coincided with my views, said that he had the medicines I spoke of,
and should certainly try them. It struck me that all he wanted really
was to know if there were anything in his ear: he had not asked me to
prescribe for him.

I heard that His Highness spoke highly of me after I left. I think he
was not yet prepared to place himself entirely in my hands, and I had
not forced him into the uncomfortable position of having to refuse my
treatment and, therefore, appear somewhat discourteous.

There is, in this part of Turkestan, a disease which bears a strong
resemblance to the so-called Delhi boil--or, more correctly, Delhi
ulcer. It was exceedingly prevalent while I was in Turkestan, and after
trying various remedies ineffectually I hit upon one which had a marked
beneficial effect. Formerly, the ulcers--which appear on the exposed
parts of the body, the hands, feet, and face--were very intractable and
rarely healed in less than a year. Under the popular native treatment
they sometimes attained enormous proportions, and became covered with
most exuberant granulations--great mounds of proud flesh: now they
healed rapidly in a month, or less, according to the size, so that I
gained a sort of reputation in this line. One day the British Agent,
Colonel Attaullah Khan, sent his Secretary to ask me to visit him, as
he was suffering from one of these sores upon his heel, and his own
Hindustani medical attendant had been unsuccessful in giving him relief.

I said, certainly, I would come, and was pulling on my boots, when the
Armenian said:--

“Sir, please you kind, a little you wait.”

“What for?” said I, with a boot half on.

“First, I write to Amîr Sahib and ask; then you go or you not go, as he
says. You Amîr Sahib’s servant.”

“Well, but----” However, I thought there was no harm in his writing at
any rate, and I waited. His Highness’s answer arrived.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Answer.]

He acknowledged the receipt of my letter of such a date, in which I
asked--Had I the Royal permission to visit--and so on. He was deeply
grieved on account of the illness of the Sirdar, for whom he had
the greatest affection and respect, but there were weighty matters
to consider. I, though an Englishman, was his servant. If, through
an unforeseen calamity God should strike the Sirdar, while under my
medical care, with an illness more severe than the present one, or,
God forbid, even with death, then the honourable Government of England
might consider in their wisdom that I, his servant, instigated by evil
men, had worked harm upon the Sirdar.

The gist of it was, that whatever His Highness’s reason might be, he
did not wish me to attend the Agent. I therefore sent my apologies.
At the next Durbar His Highness appeared pleased that I had asked his
permission before visiting the Agent, and he entered more fully, though
on the same lines, into his reasons for refusing permission.

That afternoon a Brigadier named Hadji Gul Khan, with his Staff, called
upon me at my house. They all came in, about a dozen of them, and the
Brigadier, in a hearty sort of way, shook hands and asked how I was. I
was surprised, as he was quite a stranger to me, though it is possible
I was not so to him. He was a relative of the Amîr’s, a Barukzai
Durani: he had called to ask if I would attend to one of his soldiers
who had a disease of the leg. I said, “With pleasure, which is he?”

“This is the man.”

I examined him, and found he had a fatty tumour on the outer side of
the right thigh. I said--

“It will be necessary to remove this swelling with the knife. It
consists of a mass of fat.”

“Bisyar khôb,” said the Brigadier; “very good; remove it.”

“Kai?” said I. “When?”

“Hala,” said he. “Now.”

“Certainly; come into the other room,” for I did not want to spoil
my beautiful carpets. I was short of chloroform, and I said to the

“Tell the man I shall hurt him.” The man said,

“Khair ast, it is nothing. Tell the Doctor Sahib, if he cut me to
pieces I shall not speak.”

“O, all right,” I said, “tell him to lie on the ground.” He lay down. I
made a longitudinal incision over the tumour, and proceeded to dissect
it out. It must have been very painful, but the man said nothing,
neither did I; but the bystanders, when the mass of yellowish white
fat appeared between the edges of the wound, exclaimed, “Wah! wah!” in
excited admiration.

I bandaged the leg, and the soldier walked back to his barracks. He
had to be in bed, however, for some time afterwards. We were very good
friends after that--the soldier and I. I am sure I don’t know why,
except that I admired his pluck, and had hurt him.

[Sidenote: The Country Cousin among the Court Pages.]

I called on the Hadji Jan Mahomed again, and found his young son there.
Both the Hadji and his son kept to the pure Afghan costume, with the
turban and picturesque flowing robes. The boy afterwards became a
Court Page, but he looked very out of place among the Europeanized
youngsters who swaggered about at the Palace. He looked out of date and
countryfied in his robes, and he felt it. I noticed when I was at the
Hadji’s what beautiful feet he and his son had: they were like the feet
of a Greek statue. The toes had shape. They were not degenerated like
ours, by descent through a boot-wearing ancestry.

One of the Pages lived next door to me; he was an ugly little beggar,
but rather amusing, and the Armenian suggested one evening, to
while away an hour, that we should go and see him. He was hard at
work puzzling over Euclid. It seemed very odd to see the well-known
diagrams in the midst of Persian writing. We played cards--a sort of
three-handed whist--and other games. They taught them to me, but I have
completely forgotten how they were played. The cards used were just
the same as those we have, except that they were cheap ones, made in
Germany, and were exceedingly dirty.

Another Page-boy lived opposite; next door to the Mirza Abdur Rashid.
He was an exceedingly pretty boy, and was, in consequence, very
gorgeously dressed in a scarlet and gold uniform and Kashmîr turban.
Personal beauty is a fairly certain cause of rapid promotion at the
Amîr’s Court. Some of the Court Pages are the sons of nobles, of
officers, or of wealthy men. Others are slaves.




    Slaves in Kabul: prisoners of war and others. The frequent
    rebellions. The different nationalities in Afghanistan. Origin of
    the Afghan race. The Turk Sabaktakin. Mahmûd of Ghuzni. Buddhism
    displaced by Mahomedanism: agglomeration of different strains.
    Border Afghans. Duranis, Ghilzais. Founding of a Dynasty of
    Afghan Kings. Ahmad Shah. Timûr Shah. Danger to the Empire. The
    Sons of Timûr. Zaman Shah. The Afghan “Warwick.” Execution of
    Paînda. Rebellion of the Shah’s brother. Mahmûd Shah. Another
    brother rebels. Shujah-ul-Mulk crowned: deposed by the Barakzai
    chief. Exile of Shujah. The Koh-i-nûr. The Puppet-king and the
    Barakzai Wazir. Murder of the Wazir. The Wazir’s brother becomes
    Amîr. The first Afghan War. Rule of Dôst Mahomed: A Standing Army
    established. Accession of Shere Ali. Amîr Afzal Khan. Abdurrahman.
    The Ghilzais: origin and customs. Border Pathans, Afridis,
    Shinwarris. Possible origin of Barakzais. The Hazaras: their origin
    and country: their language and government. Moral and physical
    condition. Religion. Their outbreaks and the cause. Turkomans,
    Usbàks: their uncouth nature. Other races. The Christian Church.

[Sidenote: Slaves in Kabul.]

The slaves of Kabul are those who have been kidnapped from Kaffristan,
or who are prisoners of war, taken when some tribe breaks out in
rebellion against the Amîr. When it is remembered that the Afghans,
though at present the dominant race, form only a part, and a minor
part, of the population, there being several other nations, of
different physical conformity, different language, religion, and
customs, inhabiting the country, the fact of frequent outbreaks and
rebellions is less inexplicable than it would otherwise be.

Of the Afghans, to commence with, there are three chief divisions:
the Durani or Afghan proper, of which race is the Amîr; the Ghilzai;
and the Pathan or border Afghan. Each of these is divided up into many
different tribes: the tribes into branches, and the branches into

We gather valuable information concerning Afghanistan--Ariana--and the
peoples inhabiting it, from the ancient writers; but the Afghans, as a
distinct people, do not appear in history until the commencement of the
tenth century; and it was not until the eighteenth century that they
were established as an independent nation under a king of their own

According to the most recent investigations, the Afghans, though they
assert themselves to be a Jewish nation descended from Saul, are a
conglomerate race, some tribes, or sections of tribes, having in
their veins strains of Persian, others of Indian, Greek, or Scythian
blood. Of the tribes at the present day some bear the very names and
occupy the same positions that Herodotus tells us of as existing in
the Persian satrapies of Darius, and others, the names of Macedonian
and Greek tribes, who were introduced after the conquest of Alexander.
Others again, especially in eastern Afghanistan, bear the names of
Rajput tribes renowned in Indian history.

[Sidenote: The First Afghan King.]

In the tenth century was the invasion by Tartar hordes headed by the
Turk Sabaktakin, who established himself in southern Afghanistan,
making Ghuzni his capital.

He and his son, Mahmûd of Ghuzni, founded a dynasty in Afghanistan.
They were recent converts to Islam, and destroying the then dominant
religion of the country, Buddhism, shrouded under the cloak of Mahomed
the strains of different nations that existed in the country. This wild
mixed race, called collectively Afghan, was at all times turbulent and
difficult to govern, and the tribes fought against each other without
the least scruple. Their present unsettled condition, therefore, can be
somewhat better understood when we consider that it has existed, and in
a far greater degree, from remote ages.

It would be tedious merely to enumerate the multitudinous divisions
into which the Afghan nation is divided, and I have grouped many
important tribes under the comprehensive term Border Afghans. These,
as the name implies, occupy the mountains on the Indian frontier, and
it is they who, by their raidings, thievings, and turbulence, cause so
much trouble to the Government of India.

From their position, it has been possible for investigators among the
Indian Frontier Officials to study the customs, laws, and descent of
these tribes more closely than those of the Afghans occupying the
interior of the country.

Of the latter, the Durani and the Ghilzai tribes are, from their
numerical superiority, the more important. In addition, the Durani
tribe has, from two of its branches, given to the country its Afghan

It was in the last century, 1747, that Ahmad Khan, of the Suddozai
division of the Duranis, created himself Ahmad Shah and founded a
dynasty. It occurred in the following manner. Nadir Shah, a Turkoman
robber chief, invaded Persia, driving thence the Afghans, who had held
the country for some six or seven years. He placed himself on the
throne, and then proceeded to annex Afghanistan, seizing first Herat,
and after a nearly two years’ siege Kandahar, and finally Kabul.

He ruled with vigour and generosity, and in such a manner that he
completely won the hearts of the people, and was able to bring to
the assistance of his own troops large contingents of Afghan cavalry
recruited especially among the Duranis and the Ghilzais. The chiefs
of the tribes commanded the troops raised from their tribesmen. These
men accompanied the Turk Warrior in all his expeditions, sharing
his glory and his success. So much help did they give him that he
openly preferred them to his own troops, causing, thereby, great
jealousy among the Persian soldiers. Finally, when in 1747, Nadir was
assassinated, the Persians fell upon the Afghans with such fury that
the latter, greatly outnumbered, sought safety in flight. On their
return to their native country, the nobles of the Durani and Ghilzai
tribes met together to decide upon the best means of organizing a
Government for Afghanistan. Any union with the Persians was declared
henceforth impossible, and they determined to elect a chief from
among themselves. After much discussion, Ahmad Khan, the chief of the
Suddozai Duranis, was elected King of the nation, his only formidable
rival, the chief of the Barakzai Duranis, withdrawing in his favour.
Ahmad Khan was crowned in the Mosque at Kandahar in 1747, taking the
title of Shah. In the midst of the festivities there arrived a convoy
in Kandahar, bearing from the Punjab and Scinde the tribute due to
Nadir Shah. Ahmad Shah at once seized the convoy, which was of extreme
value, and wisely consolidated his power by distributing the contents
liberally among the soldiers, officers, and nobles of his newly-founded

[Sidenote: Downfall of the Empire imminent.]

This was the commencement of the Durani dynasty of Afghan Kings, and
Ahmad, by frequent invasions, extended his Empire from Mashad in Persia
to Lahore in India. He reigned twenty-six years, and was succeeded by
his son, Timûr Shah, a weak man, who, moving the seat of Government
from Kandahar to Kabul, employed his time, not in strengthening and
consolidating his father’s Empire, but in gratifying his senses. The
result was what might have been anticipated: Law became a dead letter;
no longer was any road safe from highway robbery; disorder and anarchy
once more spread over the country, and the downfall of the Empire was
imminent. The Persian provinces were lost; then followed the Punjab,
Scinde, and Beluchistan.

At the death of Timûr, in 1793, matters became even worse, for his
many sons, who were ruling singly or jointly over different provinces,
plotted and counterplotted against one another in the endeavour to
obtain the throne. Three of the sons came to the front. Zaman Shah,
who held the throne for a brief period; Shujah-ul-Mulk, his full
brother, who held Kandahar and plotted to obtain Kabul; and Mahmûd,
who ruled in Herat as an independent Prince, and declared himself Shah
of Afghanistan. At this time the most powerful and influential of all
the Sirdars was Paînda Khan, chief of the Barakzai Duranis, and son of
the man who withdrew his pretensions to the Afghan throne in favour of
Ahmad Shah.

Paînda, another “Warwick,” supported Zaman, and by his power
and influence placed him on the throne. The other brothers were
entrapped and kept in prison on a meagre diet till they acknowledged
his accession to the throne. Zaman Shah, his court in factions,
his brothers plotting against him, his Treasury empty, India as a
looting ground shut against him by the East India Company, and Persia
threatening on the west, endeavoured, nevertheless, to rule on the
autocratic principle, and though the Barakzais had hereditary right to
the great offices of the State, he presently degraded and then executed
the chief, Paînda Khan, to whom he owed the throne, and whose power and
intellect would have been invaluable to him.

At once the sons of Paînda fled and joined the King’s brother, Mahmûd,
at Herat. Him, after much solicitation, they persuaded to advance
against Zaman Shah. They were joined by the whole of the Barakzai
tribe, who, recognizing Fethi Khan, eldest son of Paînda as their
chief, at once placed themselves under his orders. After much fighting,
and some treachery, Zaman was deposed, and his eyes put out by order of
his brother. He had reigned four years.

It was in 1800 that Mahmûd became Shah. His throne was an uneasy one.
First, the Ghilzai tribe rebelled against him, and several encounters
were necessary before they were subdued. Then a most sanguinary
religious riot arose in Kabul between the two sects of Mahomedans--the
Sunnis and the Shiahs, and the Shah, by supporting the Shiahs,
alienated his own tribes, both the Suddozais and Barakzais, who are
Sunnis. This was the commencement of his downfall, for while Fethi Khan
was in Bamian subduing a rebellion of Hazaras, the other chiefs formed
a conspiracy and invited Shujah-ul-Mulk, the Shah’s younger brother, to
advance on Kabul, promising him their support. Shujah at once advanced,
Mahmûd fled to the Bala Hissar fort, and Shujah was placed on the
throne amid the greatest rejoicings.

[Sidenote: Shah Shujah deposed by the Barakzai Chief.]

The first act of the new Shah was to seize his brother, the ex-King,
and order his eyes to be put out. This order, however, he revoked,
owing to the influence of his new Wazîr or Prime Minister--one of the
chiefs who had invited him to seize the throne. He imprisoned the
ex-King, therefore, in the dungeons of Bala Hissar.

Fethi Khan returning from Bamian found Shujah King. He had, however, a
vendetta against the new Shah for the murder of his father, Paînda, by
the Shah’s full brother, Zaman.

Secretly, and with the help of his brother, he rescued Mahmûd from
prison, and again placed him on the throne in Kabul, himself taking his
hereditary post of Wazîr. Shah Shujah, routed by Fethi Khan, fled to
India, and sought the support of Runjit Singh, the Sikh Maharajah of
Lahore. But Runjit Singh held certain provinces formerly belonging to
Afghanistan, and he would do nothing for Shujah. He, however, extorted
from him a valuable diamond that Shujah had guarded through all his
adventures. This diamond had passed from Moghul to Turkoman, from
Turkoman to Afghan, and from Afghan has passed through the Sikh to
England. It is the Koh-i-Nûr. Shujah, in terror of his life, escaped
from the Sikh, and in 1815 threw himself on the mercy of the East India
Company, who gave him a pension and a residence in Ludhiana.

Meanwhile, in Kabul, Mahmûd gave way to every kind of sensual excess.
He was a puppet in the hands of his powerful minister, Fethi Khan,
under whose rule the country recovered some of its former prosperity.

Mahmûd’s son and heir, Kamran, jealous of the power and increasing
influence of Fethi Khan, succeeded in entrapping the minister, and,
with most atrocious tortures, he murdered him. The death of this master
spirit, warrior, and statesman was an irreparable loss to Afghanistan,
and anarchy once more spread over the country.

Mahmûd and Kamran fled to Herat, and the rest of the country was
divided among the brothers of the murdered Wazîr--Kabul, Jelalabad, and
Ghuzni falling to the share of Dôst Mahomed, the favourite brother of
Fethi Khan, and the most resolute and gifted.

The government of the country, therefore, with the exception of Herat,
which was still held by Mahmûd Khan, fell from the power of the Durani
Shah to that of the Durani Wazîr.

Dôst Mahomed took the title of Amîr of Kabul, or Military Commander,
and to him British envoys were sent on missions of commerce and

At this time Russia was urging on Persia to take Herat, but as Herat
commands Kandahar, and thus is, as it were, the gate of India, the
British were compelled to make a counter-move. Then came the first
Afghan war--the disastrous endeavour on our part to revive the extinct
Suddozai Durani dynasty. Dôst Mahomed was taken prisoner to Calcutta;
Shah Shujah was put on the throne at Kabul; and Mahmûd, with his son
Kamran, as successor, acknowledged as Governor of Herat.

[Sidenote: The Rule of Dôst Mahomed: a Standing Army.]

The failure of the plan is a modern story. Shah Shujah was murdered
by the Afghans in 1842, and Dôst Mahomed was released and allowed to
find his way back to Kabul, where he was welcomed to the throne with

The rule of Dôst Mahomed, compared with what had gone before, was a
boon to Afghanistan; merchants and caravans could travel with some
amount of safety through his dominions. Trade recovered considerably,
and with its growth the revenues of the Amîr increased. For a long time
he made no attempt to extend his dominions, but contented himself in
rendering secure and prosperous those provinces he already possessed.
His brothers lacked the power, though not the wish, to compass his
overthrow, for though they were bold fighting men, they possessed
neither the capacity nor the resolution of the Amîr. The danger to
the sovereigns of Afghanistan had, hitherto, been the difficulty in
retaining the allegiance of the great Chiefs--the Barons--those men who
could call into the field the thousands of their clansmen to fight for
or against the King. Dôst Mahomed, though not lacking in generosity
towards them, nevertheless showed them that it would be both difficult
and dangerous to attempt to throw off their allegiance. As a check
to their power in the field he established, for the first time in
Afghanistan, a standing army. The Chiefs submitted, though at first
unwillingly, to the rule of the Amîr, for doubtless it seemed better to
yield to a monarch both just and generous than to attempt revolts, the
issue of which was in any case doubtful, and might place them under the
insecure and cruel despotism of the Suddozais. Of the extension of his
dominions to Kandahar, Herat, and Turkestan I will speak later.

Dôst Mahomed appointed a younger and favourite son, Shere Ali, to
succeed him, the only one of his sons whose mother was of Royal blood.
In 1868 Amîr Shere Ali was deposed by his elder brothers, Afzal Khan
and Azim Khan.

Amîr Afzal Khan, eldest son of Dôst Mahomed, reigned but five months
and died. He left one son only, the present Amîr, Abdurrahman.

He was succeeded by his brother, Azim Khan, who, however, was not
recognized as Amîr by the British, and in the following year Shere Ali
again obtained the throne. His estrangement with the British, their
advance, and the Amîr’s death in Mazar, I have spoken of. Yakûb, who
was Amîr when Cavagnari was assassinated, was son of Shere Ali. When
Yakûb was deposed Abdurrahman Khan was invited by the British to ascend
the throne.

Considering the line of men through whom he is descended, it is not so
surprising a thing that Amîr Abdurrahman has shown talent as a ruler,
politician, and general of so high an order. Dôst Mahomed and his
brother, Fethi Khan, their father and grandfather, Paînda and Jummal
Khan, were the type of men who change the course of history.

I have given this very curtailed sketch of what has been happening in
Afghanistan during the last hundred and fifty years, so that one may
see _who_ Amîr Abdurrahman is and why he is Amîr.

We may now go back to our former subject, the peoples inhabiting

[Sidenote: Origin of the Ghilzais.]

The Ghilzai Afghans are of doubtful origin: they are sometimes reckoned
as Pathan. Their language is Pukhtu, and their manners, customs,
and religion the same as those of the Duranis; but they are said to
have come into the country with the Turkoman Sabaktakin in the tenth
century, and to be the representatives of a Turk tribe from beyond the
Jaxartes, called Khilichi, “swordsmen.” More recent investigation seems
to point, however, to their being of Rajput (Scythian) descent; for the
clans into which the tribe is divided have mostly Indian names.

The Ghilzai is a very numerous and powerful tribe occupying that
part of the country which lies between the provinces of Kandahar and
Kabul. They are a race of fighting men, but have not given a ruler
to Afghanistan. One reason for their submission to the government of
the Duranis at Kabul, is the fact that a large portion of the tribe
is nomadic in its habits, moving from highlands to lowlands with the
seasons. They spend the summer among their villages on the uplands of
the Sufféd Kôh, Tobah, and Khôjah Amràn Mountains, and in the winter
packing their belongings on camels, asses, and bullocks, and driving
their flocks before them, they descend and camp on the warm plains.
Without their winter quarters on the plains they could not exist,
neither themselves nor their flocks.

Of the numerous tribes of Pathans or Border Afghans I will speak
only of the two to which I have already referred in the course of my
narrative: the Afridis, who occupy the mountains around Peshawur and
the east of the Khyber; and the Shinwaris, who occupy the western
extremity of the Khyber. The Afridis, who number about thirty thousand
families, say they were transplanted by Mahmûd of Ghuzni from the
Ghor country, which lies between Kabul and Herat, to their present
hills as military colonists for the defence of the Khyber Pass. Two
centuries later the colony was increased by fresh arrivals planted by
Shahabuddin Ghori. They are probably of Turkish descent. The Afridis
are partly cave dwellers, but live also in movable huts of matting and
wickerwork--a rough imitation of the Turkoman _Khirgar_. They have
few villages and no tents. They are described by Dr. Bellew (a keen
observer, who spent many years on the frontier in the study of the
Pathan) as a warlike and predatory people, “of lean wiry build, with
keen eyes and hungry features, and of light complexion, but not of fine

Other of the Pathan tribes near them differ in physical conformity, for
they are tall and manly, being often as fair and as strongly built as

The Shinwaris, whom I mentioned in the early part of my narrative
as being considered dangerous even by the Amîr’s troops, are by
some supposed to be of Albanian descent, and to have been placed by
Nadir Shah in their present position as a guard to the Khyber. They,
however, do not show a trace of such an origin, for their manners and
customs are Pathan and their language Pukhtu. Bellew considers them
as probably the Sanobari or Sinawàri Indians of Rajput descent. Their
“peaceful” occupation is that of muleteers, and they breed herds of
mules for the carrying trade.

One interesting point in the descent of the Amîr’s tribe, the Barakzai
Duranis, is called attention to by Bellew. He considers that they are
probably an offshoot of the Baraki mentioned by the Emperor Babar
as one of the principal tribes of Kabul in the early part of the
sixteenth century. These Barakis are considered a distinct race by
themselves, and are not claimed by Afghan or Pathan, Ghilzai or Hazara.
They use among themselves a dialect which appears to resemble a Hindi
language. Bellew identifies the Baraki tribe of Kabul with the Bàrkai
of Herodotus, who were recognized as Greeks by Alexander and his
followers. They were a colony of Greek exiles transported from Kyrènè
in Lybia, to the Logar Valley of Kabul, by Darius Hystaspes. This
valley is to-day their principal settlement. The Baraki have for ages
retained the reputation of being excellent and reliable soldiers, and
the Royal Barakzai Durani family have always entertained a body-guard
composed of Baraki. The separation of Baraki and Barakzai, with the
diminution in number of the one and the increase of the other, is
explained by the probable suggestion that the former reluctantly, and
the latter readily, accepted the religion of Islam in the early period
of its introduction.

[Sidenote: The Hazaras.]

Another nation, and in point of numbers the most important, occupying
Afghanistan, is the Hazara. They are mostly of the Tartar type, and
occupy the mountains of the west and north-west of Afghanistan. They,
like the Afghan, are a mixed race. Though chiefly Turk they have tribes
among them of Rajput, Kopt, Abyssinian, and Persian descent. The
Hazara proper, who inhabit the Ghor country, claim to be descendants
of military colonists planted in this country by Ghengis Khan, the
Turkestan chief, in 1200. Probably, however, the influx was slow,
extending over several generations, and was more the migration of a
nation than a purely military conquest. The language of the Hazaras
is an old dialect of Persian with some admixture of Turki words.
At the Kabul Hospital when a Hazara came for treatment I found his
language so difficult to understand, that in the absence of my Armenian
interpreter, I often had to call upon some one to translate for me into
modern Persian. With their high cheek-bones, small oblique eyes, and
scanty beards, they differ much in physiognomy from the Afghan, and
their form of government, manners, and morals are equally divergent.

The government of their chiefs is more despotic and less republican
than that of the Afghan chiefs. Though some tribes are said to be
nomadic, predatory, and the poorest and most barbarous of all the
races in Afghanistan, those I came in contact with seemed, compared
with the Afghans, a hard working peaceful people, unless they were
roused by cruelty and oppression; then, indeed, they fought with dogged
persistence. They seemed to have a certain simplicity of character
which contrasted strongly with the duplicity of the Afghan. Though
undersized, they are of great physical strength, and as slaves taken in
war, or servants for hire, they seemed to me to do all the hard work in
Kabul. In religion they are mostly Shiah Mahomedans, and therefore to
the Sunni Afghans they seem almost as much infidels as the Christians.
They make their own powder and rifles, are excellent shots, and, in
spite of the mountainous country in which they dwell, are excellent
horsemen. As a nation they have an intense love of liberty, and have
been more or less independent for generations. The last monarch who
subjugated them was Timûr Shah or Tamerlane. They have, however, paid
tribute to the present Amîr, though many a battle was fought before
they yielded.

[Sidenote: Cause of Hazara Rebellions.]

To this day the Hazaras are constantly breaking out in rebellion, but
from stories I heard in Kabul I gather they would willingly pay tribute
to the Amîr as King, but for the outrages and atrocious cruelties
practised upon them by His Highness’s troops.

In their day these Hazaras formed a very powerful sovereignty, which
extended from the Euphrates to the Ganges. They it was who supplanted
the Turk at Ghuzni, and who overthrew the Rajput dynasty, conquered
India, and established the Mahomedan religion in that country.

Further north, on the banks of the Oxus river, the border line that
divides Afghan from Russian Turkestan, are Turkoman and Usbàk tribes.
The Turkoman is, as the name implies, of Turk descent. This people
lived to the south of the Thian Shan or Celestial mountains, and in the
eleventh and twelfth centuries overran Bokhara, Armenia, and Georgia.
Physically they are immensely strong men, taller than the Hazara, of
rough manners and coarse fibre, seeming more or less insensible to pain
or sorrow: their cold insensible nature contrasting strongly with the
more amorous nature of Afghan and Persian.

I had a practical illustration of their rough manners one day in Mazar.
I was riding back from the Hospital, and at some little distance from
the city I met a troop of Turkoman cavalry. I was interested and rode
quietly on, never dreaming of getting out of their way, for I naturally
thought they would do as others had done, make way for a Distinguished
Foreigner. Not in the least. They just did not ride over me, but in a
moment I was in the midst of the troop, and as they rode carelessly
and rapidly by, one man brushed against me, ripped my boot, tore the
buttons off the leg of my breeches, and nearly twisted me out of the
saddle. Consider the iniquity of the act! The Amîr’s own Physician and
a common Turkoman! I was indignant; but decided to ride on and take no
notice; they are men of such exceedingly coarse fibre.

These people are nomads, living in tents, or, when they camp for a
longer period, in temporary huts, or oftener in a sort of wickerwork
wigwam, dome-shaped, and covered with felt called the “khirgar.” These
wigwams can be taken down and packed on a camel in less than an hour.
The Turkoman women are unveiled, and work in camp and field, and weave
the beautiful rugs that are so much in demand in Afghanistan and India.

The Usbàks are a confederation of many Turk and Tartar tribes, not
one race. They are flat faced, with scanty beard and slanting eyes.
They speak the same language as the Turkoman--Turki--and have the
same disposition, tastes, and ferocity. They do not, however, lead
a wandering life, but dwell in villages, and may be considered the
established and civilized inhabitants of Central Asia beyond the Oxus.
Their type is occasionally somewhat altered by intermarriage with the

There are other prominent but less numerous races in Afghanistan:
for instance, the Kizilbashes, who are the better educated among the
townspeople. There is a colony of them in Kabul, at Chendawal, to this
day. They are Persianized Turks, who were brought to Afghanistan by
Nadir Shah in 1737. They speak pure Persian, and constitute chiefly
the merchants, physicians, traders, and scribes. His Highness’s chief
secretary, the Dabier-ul-Mulk, was a Kizilbachi. These men belong to
the Shiah sect of Mahomedans.

[Sidenote: The Christian Church.]

At one time there was a colony of Armenians in Kabul, brought from
Persia by Nadir Shah, and a Christian church was in existence, until it
was accidentally blown to pieces in the last Afghan war.

The Armenians, however, have drifted away to the large towns in India
and Persia, and only one family remains, that of my Interpreter.

I went one day to pay my respects to a Christian lady in Kabul, an
aged Armenian some ninety years old. She wept bitterly as she told me
of the church built by a Mahomedan King for their use and destroyed by

Of other races in Kabul, there are Tajiks of Arab descent, Hindkis of
Hindu descent, and Kohestani and Pashai tribes, who are considered to
be the unconverted aborigines of the Kabul province.



    Hazara slaves, Kaffir slaves, and others. The slave boys at the
    Palace. Court Pages. High positions occupied by slaves. Treatment
    of slaves in Kabul. The slave boy and the Son. Price of slaves.
    Wife and children of Hazara Chief in slavery. Hazara slaves a
    glut in the market. Illness of the Hostage of an Afghan Chief.
    Abdur Rashid down with fever. Own illness and the aches thereof.
    The British Agent’s postal arrangements. Occasional fate of the
    letters. Postage in Afghanistan. Power of annoying possessed by
    Interpreters. The Chief Bugler. The Page boy and the Sirdar.
    Outrageous conduct: the punishment. The Page boy and the Amîr: the
    result. The uproar on September 15th: the cause. The bearer of good
    tidings. Congratulations to the Sultana. The crowd outside the
    Harem Serai. The Sultana’s reply. Matter of succession complicated.
    Display of fireworks: the accident. Surgical operations. The Priest
    with a blemish: his request. The Amîr’s reply. The operation. The
    Mirza’s comments.

I was speaking of the slaves of Kabul when the subject of the peoples
inhabiting the country presented itself. Just now the majority of
slaves in Afghanistan are Hazaras, probably because they have lately
been fighting against the Amîr.

There are also children and women taken prisoners from other rebellious
tribes, and Kaffir slaves kidnapped as children from Kaffristan. A
batch of the former were brought to Mazar while I was there. His
Highness took about a dozen. They were good-looking boys of the Persian
type, and I was told they came from the direction of Maimana, to the
north-west of Afghanistan towards Panjdeh. No one understood their
language. It was not ordinary Pushtu, nor Turki, nor Persian. They,
however, picked up Persian very quickly.

[Sidenote: Slaves in High Positions.]

The slave boys at the Palace are placed under the care of one official
whose duty it is to look after their comfort and train them in their
several duties. They are really Court Pages, and their work is shared
by the sons of nobles and gentlemen. A slave boy, if he has beauty,
ability, and fidelity--a rare combination, perhaps--can rise to the
highest positions under the Government.

One whom I knew, holding a very high position in the Afghan army, was
sold by the Amîr when he was in exile in Russia. The man ran away from
his master, and found his way back to the Amîr; again he was sold and
again escaped. He returned to Afghanistan with the Amîr and was raised
to high estate. He was a kindly man, but, in spite of his dog-like
fidelity to the Amîr, was not of strong character. I do not know of
what nationality he was: I was told that he was not an Afghan, but came
from the north-east. His son was distinctly of the Tartar type, though
he himself had more the regular features of the Persian. I saw in the
newspapers a short time ago that he was dead.

Two others I knew, slaves, holding high positions in the Amîr’s
service, who were with him in Russian Turkestan. His Highness will
forgive much in these men, and punish but lightly shortcomings on their

As regards the treatment of the slaves in Kabul, it is simply a
question of property: a man has the power to sell, kill, or do as
he pleases with his slave; but, speaking generally, the slaves are
well-treated, especially among the upper classes. Sometimes it is
impossible to tell from their appearance which is a man’s slave-boy and
which is his son.

In Mazar, two boys used often to come and see me: they were dressed
very much alike, in gold embroidered tunics, and each had a little
revolver. I heard one of them was a slave, but for a long time I
thought the slave was the son. He was an amusing little fellow, quick
at repartee; but he lacked the dignity of the other--the almost
mournful quality of which made me think he was the slave.

[Sidenote: Hazara Slaves a Glut in the Market.]

The price of slaves varies according to their quality: ordinarily it
is thirty rupees the span: by span I mean the distance from the outer
side of one hand to the outer side of the other when, with the fingers
closed, the thumbs are extended to their utmost, the tips touching.
This is roughly about a foot, so that a baby that length would cost
thirty rupees. However, in Kabul, a short time ago, a Hazara baby was
bought for half-a-crown; the purchaser got the mother for fifteen
shillings, and a little boy of six for five shillings. This woman,
with her children, were the family of a Hazara of wealth and position.
Unfortunately the tribe rebelled; the men were mostly killed, and the
women and children became a glut in the market. Some time after the
purchase I was asked to examine the small boy of six medically. He had
been ill about ten days, and a Hakim had been called to attend him.
The case had been diagnosed as typhoid fever--and the opinion given
that the child was improving. I found the child had meningitis, or
inflammation of the membranes of the brain. He died the same night: a
sheer loss of five shillings to the owner.

I saw the mother during my visit, she was a good-looking woman for a
Hazara. She did not make much disturbance at the death of the child,
at any rate while I was in the house. She seemed more stunned than
anything else.

Recently in Kabul it was a very common sight to see a gang of Hazara
women, with their unveiled faces and their dingy blue dresses, ragged
and dirty, conducted through the town by a small guard of soldiers with
bayonets fixed. As the war progressed they became so plentiful that His
Highness would often reward a faithful servant or officer by presenting
him with one or more as an addition to his Harem.

I had been in Turkestan some three months when I was sent for one
morning to see a young man, the brother of one of the few remaining
powerful Afghan chiefs. Most of the others have been “expunged.” As
a rule I did not visit the sick at their homes unless I received an
order from His Highness to do so, or unless some one I knew personally
sent for me to visit him. This young man, however, was a friend of the
Armenian’s. His brother’s territory lay not very far from the British
frontier, and he himself was a hostage with the Amîr for the good
behaviour of his brother, the Chief. I found he had malarial fever very
severely. When I returned home my neighbour opposite, the Mirza Abdur
Rashid, sent for me to see him. He also was down with the fever. I
prescribed for them both.

The next morning I felt rather ill myself, but started about eight to
see the Chief’s brother again. The sun seemed frightfully scorching
that morning, it was August, and presently the headache I had grew so
intense that each step was agony.

I gave in at last, and turned my horse home again. I went into the
inner room and sat on the charpoy. The Armenian shut all the doors and
windows to keep out the heat, and propped me against the wall with
pillows. Then the backache began. Oh, my bones! I was one great ache.
The Armenian had seen the treatment I put others under, and he weighed
out the medicines and brought them to me. I was too stupid with fever
and aches to care what I took.

Just then the British Agent’s Secretary, Amin Ullah, was announced.
He was an interesting man, but I was compelled to greet him with
lugubrious groans. He brought me five home letters, which my aching
eyeballs would not allow me to read.

[Sidenote: Postal Arrangements for the British Agent.]

I used to send my letters through the Agent’s post in those days. He
had a separate compartment in the Amîr’s post-bag which, by arrangement
between the Government and His Highness, was locked and sealed. Once
or twice the letters did not reach their destination, and it was said
that some of the wild hillmen had pounced on the postman and carried
off his bag. They might do the same to anyone carrying a bag, but it
was never found out who were the robbers. Afterwards, I did not send my
letters through the Agent’s post, but sent them direct to the Amîr’s
post-office. His Highness allowed me to send and receive three letters
monthly, free of postage. This was not so small a matter as it seems,
seeing that in Turkestan the postage of each letter came to rather
more than its weight in silver. All I had to do, therefore, was to
stick on an Indian stamp. I found my letters arrived about as safely
through the Amîr’s post as through the Agent’s, at any rate for some
years. Afterwards, when we came to Kabul, I found there an Interpreter,
a Hindustani, who was in favour with the Prince. He tried hard to get
on as Interpreter for me; thinking, probably, that baksheesh from the
patients could be worked; as I would not have him, he proceeded to
intrigue against me. I did not take much notice of the man, knowing
that he could not do much harm. However, he succeeded in getting hold
of some of my home letters, which was sufficiently annoying, and once
he placed me and the other Englishmen in Kabul in a position of no
little danger: how this occurred I will relate presently.

I got well of the fever in about a fortnight, and then I heard that
both the Chief’s brother and the Mirza Abdur Rashid were still ill. I
had thought that, of course, the medicine I had prescribed had been
given them every day. No, everything was at a standstill, both with
them and at the Hospital, just as I had left it a fortnight before;
this is so truly Oriental.

I, of course, visited them, and they rapidly got well under quinine.

At this time His Highness requested me to visit one of the page boys,
the son of a former Commander-in-Chief at Herat, who was sick. He was
a smart lad of about fifteen; in appearance very like an English boy.
His house was just opposite a low tower where the chief bugler took his
stand morning and evening to sound the royal salute. As I visited the
boy when my day’s work was done, I was generally in his house when the
evening salute was sounded. The bugler was a stout red-bearded man with
blue eyes: he looked just like an Irishman. But however much these men
may look like English and Irish, closer acquaintance shows how strongly
contrasted the Oriental is with the Occidental. The boy recovered in
due time, but there is a story about him, an incident that occurred a
year or two later, while I was in the country, which may be interesting.

[Sidenote: The Page Boy and the Sirdar.]

The boy was not a bad sort of boy--he looked English--and we were very
good friends, so that I quite enjoyed my visits to his house--but he
was an Afghan. One day the Sirdar Gholam Hussain, the dignified man who
has charge of His Highness’s food, directed the boy to perform some
slight task, I forget what, and the boy bluntly refused. The Sirdar
spoke sharply to him, but the boy apparently resented being spoken to,
for he at once drew his revolver and shot at the Sirdar; he missed,
and whipping out his sword he rushed on him. The Sirdar warded off
the blow and threw the boy down. He was brought before the Amîr. In
consequence of his former behaviour--he had been rather a favourite
with the Amîr--and on account of the services his father, who was dead,
had rendered the Amîr--his punishment was remitted to the extent of a
severe caning, and he was discharged from the Court for a time and sent
back to Herat.

Some months later he was recalled. This was not the end of his
adventures, for soon after his return he objected to the smallness of
the pay he received as page. The Amîr increased it somewhat. The lad,
apparently presuming upon the Amîr’s remarkable forbearance, again
expressed discontent. His Highness is not a man to be played with. He
was exceedingly angry, and the punishment was proportionately severe.
The boy was degraded and sent to jail in Kabul. This is a horrible
place, and they who enter it are often never seen again. However, when
we returned to Kabul, I met a gang of prisoners in chains returning to
jail after the day’s work in the arm foundry: the boy was among them;
but he covered his face as I rode by. He was in prison about two years.
I met him one day after he was released. He looked very haggard and
old, not at all like the boy I had known in Turkestan. I pulled up to
speak to him, but he seemed even then to wish to escape observation, so
that I merely said, “Jour-asti? Are you well?” and rode on again.

The Chief’s brother, when he became quite well, came very often to see
me. He was a handsome fellow, and I made a sketch or two of him in my
note-book. He had a great desire to learn drawing, but he was never
any good at it. I taught him how to write his name in English, and he
learnt a few words also.

One Sunday morning, September 15th, 1889, I was surprised to hear a
considerable uproar: there was the report of rifles, the playing of
military bands, and there seemed to be an air of bustle and excitement
with everyone. Presently a man came rushing breathlessly into my house
to tell me the news. It was not an advance of the Russians, nor even
an outbreak of the Hazaras: no, the Sultana, the favourite wife of the
Amîr, had given birth to a _son_. Had it been a daughter the matter
would probably have been hushed up.

[Sidenote: The Bearer of Good Tidings.]

“Why this hurry?” I said to the Armenian.

“This man, Dîn Mahomed, a little he is my friend; I know a child come
into house of Amîr Sahib, but I know not when: better this, at once we
go to Harem Serai and send in Salaam, and Her Highness made glad upon

“Ah, I see,” said I, “and the little, your friend, Dîn Mahomed, he
would like baksheesh?”

“Please you kind,” said the Armenian with an engaging smile.

“How much?” I asked.

“Sir, your wish. One twenty rupees,” he said, carelessly.

“Isn’t it rather dear at the price?” I said.

“Oh, sir! no. Other gentlemen, and rich man Supersala and Officer, give
twenty or forty gold _tilla_ and three or four horses.”

“To a servant! For just bringing news!”

“The servant, he is not keep it. He bring to his master, Amîr Sahib,
and Highness make glad upon that. Some he give to servant, and some
he give to other servant. And Officer and Supersala make glad that
Highness not send it back.”

“Well, oughtn’t I to give more than twenty rupees?”

“No, sir. In my o-pinion twenty rupees enough. You, mussáfir and
stranger, and not know custom of Afghanistan.”

The bearer of news is rewarded with presents or with blows, according
to the quality of the tidings.

Mounted men were racing off full speed to Kabul and the other big
towns; those who got in first received the baksheesh.

We rode off to the Harem Serai to offer my congratulations. I found a
large crowd in the garden outside the Serai. There was an elephant with
gay trappings, which attracted a great deal of attention. Two brass
bands, with crowds round them, were hard at work, their style reminding
one of a parish school band. Pipers were marching up and down, gaily
playing _Scotch_ tunes on their bagpipes. Native instruments were
giving vent to moans, shrieks, and thuds.

When we got into the garden I found I attracted rather more
attention than I either expected or desired. However, seeing the
Commander-in-Chief and some other officers sitting on a bank under the
shade of a tree, I went up and shook hands with them, and with the
assistance of the Armenian we had some conversation: not about the
weather, that is a subject which is never discussed in Afghanistan.
Presently I saw my small friend Mahomed Omer, son of Perwana Khan, who
was one of the Pages in the Harem, and I sent in my congratulations
by him. By and bye two of the Amîr’s younger sons, the Princes Hafiz
Ullah and Amin Ullah, about ten and six years old--who had visited the
Sultana that morning--came from the Harem. They conveyed the Sultana’s
thanks for congratulations. Her Highness seemed very pleased that I had
called, for she sent me a present of five hundred rupees by the hand of
the little Princes. It struck me at the time that possibly she viewed
the visit rather as a national than a personal compliment.

The birth of the youngster may, perhaps, in the future complicate the
matter of succession. Before his birth the heir presumptive was the
Amîr’s eldest son, Prince Habibullah. The mother of the eldest Prince,
however, is not of the royal tribe, whereas the Sultana is royal on
both her father’s and her mother’s side. Her father was a Priest and
a Seyid, or descendant of the Prophet, and therefore hereditarily
a beggar: but he was also a Suddozai Durani, and he asked for and
received the daughter of Amîr Dost Mahomed in marriage.

Now, therefore, that there is a son who is royal on both sides, Prince
Habibullah’s claim is less decided than it was.

On the day after the Prince’s birthday the Festival was continued.
Bands were playing all day, and in the evening a display of
rockets--native made--was given.

[Sidenote: The Accident.]

One small boy managed to get hold of some explosive affair--a bomb I
heard--and was playing about with it when it exploded. As he was not
killed they brought him to me. The child was not pleasant to look
upon, for the injury was chiefly in his face. I gave him a few whiffs
of chloroform and cleared away the blood; but it took some little
time to fit in the pieces and sew up the rents. I had a good deal of
trouble, I remember, with the corner of his mouth and with the brow
and left eyelid, so much was gone. It was a sort of puzzle to fit
things together. The left eyeball had to be removed entirely, it was
destroyed. However, he made an excellent recovery, with remarkably
little disfigurement, except for the loss of the eye and part of the

I seemed to be in for operations just then; and one I had to do whether
I wanted to or not.

It was on a young Moolah or Priest: he had a goitre--or enlarged

I think I have mentioned that a priest is disqualified for the
priesthood if he has any bodily blemish, and this enlargement in the
throat distressed the Moolah greatly, for he was jeered at on account
of it. Several times he had asked me to “cut away” the tumour, but
there were reasons why I refused to employ _surgical_ treatment. He
was improving, though slowly, under _medical_ treatment; the swelling
was distinctly smaller. Removal of a goitre by the knife is not
an operation to be generally recommended; firstly, because of the
proximity of the gland to the great arteries of the throat and its very
free blood supply; and, secondly, because, if the gland is removed
successfully there are serious consequences that invariably follow,
namely, the slow development of a most curious disease called Myxœdema,
in which the sufferer has the appearance of being dropsical, though
he is not so, and in which the speech and intellect are curiously

I could not explain all this to the Moolah through the Armenian, and I
contented myself by saying “Né me-kunum, mé-muri.” “I shall not do it,
you would die.”

He bothered me time after time, and at last I said impatiently to the

“Tell him to go and get an order from His Highness.”

I thought that would end the matter, never thinking that he would go.
He went, and, moreover, got the order. I at once wrote to the Amîr and
explained that the operation was not necessary, and that, if attempted,
the man would probably die. I received His Highness’s answer very soon
after. He said--

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Reply.]

“Your letter, in which you say ---- and so on ---- has been received by
me. The reasons therein set forth as to the danger of the cutting need
not be an obstacle in the way of its performance. If the man recover it
is good, and if he die, what does it matter! He himself is willing to
undergo the risk.”

There was nothing for it, therefore, but to operate. I told the Moolah
he was foolish, and the operation would probably cost him his life. He
said--being interpreted--

“No, sir. I have no fear. You will not let me die.”

His complete confidence, however, did not inspire me with the same
feeling. There was a wooden platform in my garden, and we pulled it
under the colonnade, where it was shady, and the Moolah lay down. I
had sent for one of the Hindustanis to give chloroform, but he did
not come: it was the Sabbath, Friday. My neighbour, the Mirza Abdur
Rashid, said _he_ could give chloroform, he had seen it done. As I
could not operate and attend to the chloroform as well, I was compelled
to let the Mirza try. He put the man under successfully--he had seen it
done--though he knew nothing of the dangers of giving too much. I made
a longitudinal incision in the middle line of the throat and commenced
dissecting down with a knife and a pair of forceps, the skin being
stretched back by one of the soldiers, who were gathered in a group
round. When I had got rather deep there was a sudden gush of blood,
rapid and copious. I had divided the first of five arteries that had
to be cut through before the tumour could be removed. I wanted to tie
the artery, but there was no finding it at the bottom of a deep narrow
cut that filled with blood the moment the sponge was lifted. At last I
managed blindly to catch the artery with a pair of forceps and tie it:
the bleeding ceased. After this, I dissected down and tied the arteries
before I cut them. Then I removed the tumour in its capsule. It weighed
ten and a-half ounces. I sent it to the Amîr, who congratulated me on
the success of the operation. The Moolah we left on the platform under
the colonnade, covering him with a sheepskin postîn, and gave orders to
the soldiers of the guard to take turns in watching by his side, and to
call me if the bleeding broke out or if he seemed worse. The Moolah,
poor fellow, had high fever the next day, and the third day he died. A
day or two afterwards I said to the Mirza how sorry I was he had died,
but the Mirza laughed and said:--

“Dèk ne me-showi. Be not sorrowful, you said he would die, and he died.
It was so written in the book of Fate.”




    The Amîr’s autograph letter. Medical consultation concerning the
    rearing of the Prince. Conflicting customs of the Orient and
    the Occident. Conservative nurses. The “Hakim fair to see”: the
    patient: his fate. Lessons in Persian and lessons in English.
    Portrait painting. Dietary difficulties. Gracious acts of His
    Highness. Amîr’s letter of condolence. The Royal visit by deputy.
    Congratulations of the British Agent. The doleful dumps of
    illness and the cheery Armenian. Accident to the favourite Page.
    The khirgar. Story of the attempt upon the life of the Amîr. An
    earthquake. Afghan appreciation of pictures and jokes. Generosity
    of the Amîr. The first winter Durbar. His Highness’s invention. The
    Royal costume. The bearing of the men brought before His Highness.
    The Amîr’s question: the Parable. Arrangement and furnishing of
    the dining-room. The guests. The breakfast. The press of State
    business. Amîr’s thoughtful kindness. The Armenian’s comment. Visit
    to the Commander-in-Chief. The ride to the Hospital. Adventure with
    the “fool horse.” Hospital patients in winter. “Two much and three

At the beginning of October I received an autograph letter from His
Highness, directing me to consult with the two chief Hakims, Abdul
Wahid and Abdur Rashid, and advise as to the best manner in which to
rear the infant Prince. This is a literal translation of His Highness’s

[Sidenote: Amîr’s Autograph Letter.]

    “To the Honourable and Righteous Dr. Gray,

    “Be it known to you that my two Physicians, Mirza Abdul Wahid Khan
    and Mirza Abul Rashid Khan, are directed by me to consult you and
    take your advice concerning the customs and ways in which Europeans
    of to-day rear their children, and also concerning the proper
    time for putting on and removing the bandages, and the time of
    giving milk, and of cradling and sleeping, and all things which
    are necessary for the nourishment of a child, which are written
    by the doctors and scientific men of Europe. These physicians are
    acquainted with the customs of the Greeks, and I desire that they
    be informed concerning the customs of Europeans.”

  “Finis.” “I have written it.”

The Hakims arrived at half-past seven in the evening. I have spoken
of the courtly old Abdul Wahid with his Roman face. He was Hakim to
Amîr Shere Ali. Abdul Rashid was the very fat man with interminable
words. He did the talking, because he was ignorant, and Abdul Wahid sat
silent. They were both exceedingly polished as became Court physicians.

We compared the customs of Orientals and Occidentals in the rearing of
infants. The Hakims were very surprised to hear that we did not bandage
infants closely from shoulder to ankle, and so prevent them from moving
a limb.

“How then can you ensure that the child’s limbs grow not crooked? What
other method is there for keeping them straight?”

I said, “Cannot Allah who created each child finish His work and cause
its limbs to grow straight without our help.”

“Beshak--undoubtedly, Allah is all-powerful and all-wise; but our
fathers, and our fathers’ fathers, placed bandages on the children,
and they were wise men. How do you account for the fact that in some
children the legs are bent?”

I forthwith entered into an explanation of the causes of rickets. How
that want of pure air, of sunlight, and free movement of the limbs, of
suitable food, produced a disease of the bones in which the lime salts
were absorbed, leaving only the soft bendable gristle, and so on--but
it was not any use: they knew nothing about pathology, or anatomy
either. So we left that and went on to other matters.

[Sidenote: The Rearing of Afghan Infants.]

The Afghan baby--among the rich--is wrapped up as to the head and
neck by a stifling head-dress, rather like that which an Arab wears
to protect him from the sun, and I could not make them understand the
advantage of dispensing with a head covering indoors.

The cradle is a massive wooden concern. It consists of a hammock or
shallow box, suspended at either end from a longitudinal bar supported
on uprights, so that it will swing from side to side. When the child is
asleep every breath of air is excluded by thick curtains, which fall
from the bar over the sides of the cradle--and this in a hot climate.
What could I say? We differed in almost every detail; there was no
common ground to start from.

The Sultana had expressed her desire that the European doctor should
attend the Prince medically. I saw a cheerful future before me,
for I found that the nurses would diverge, not in the slightest
degree, from the customs of their ancestors. It is possible to
move a mountain--granted time and a sufficient amount of blasting
material--but no amount of blasting will move an Oriental woman out of
the rut that ages of custom has made.

The Sultana did not nurse her child. A nurse therefore was sought for
to rear the little Prince.

Before the Hakims left my house the fat one expressed his deep sense
of gratitude that I had granted him my friendship, and he ended a
polite speech by asking me to see a patient of his. I ought to have
remembered the poet’s lines:--

  “I know a Hakim fair to see,”
  (Only he was dark and fat, but that does not matter)--“Beware!
  He can both false and friendly be--Beware!
  Trust him not he is fooling thee.”

I went to see the patient: he was one of the Chamberlains, Nasir
Courbon Ali. He was exceedingly ill with malarial fever, and his skin
was yellow, which was bad. I thought there was a chance of saving his
life if vigorous remedies were used. I returned home and directed the
compounder to prepare a mixture and deliver it himself. I visited the
Nasir three times that day, but he did not seem to be improving. The
next day he was worse. I had to go on to the Hospital, but when I
returned home I said to the compounder,

“You sent the Nasir’s medicine this morning?”

The compounder had picked up a little English from the Armenian. He

“No, sir, I forget it.”

Forget it! I was exceedingly angry.

“A man’s life is in extreme danger, and you _forget_!”

Then he explained, or rather the Armenian did. When he had delivered
the medicine he found the Hakim there: he left the medicine, noticing
where it was placed; he returned once or twice during the day, but
found the bottle just as it had been left. Not a dose was given that
day or afterwards. Why, therefore, did the fat old fraud ask me to go
and see his patient? I do not know. The Nasir died the next day.

[Sidenote: Lessons in English.]

Towards the end of September the cases of malarial fever among the
soldiers and townspeople began to decrease in number, and I had more
leisure. I commenced to study Persian, with the occasional assistance
of Munshi Amin Ullah, secretary to the British Agent. The Armenian was
not, at that time, sufficiently learned to attempt to teach me. He had
very vague ideas as to moods and tenses: and pronouns and prepositions
bothered him considerably. I tried to teach him English. He knew the
letters, but words, whose sound and meaning he knew well, baffled him
completely when written. I found this was chiefly due to the fact that
when he spelt out a word he pronounced it exactly as it was spelt.
“Enough” was a complete stumper, because there was no “f” in it. He
considered it ought to have been “enuf,” and wished to argue the point
with me; so that his English reading did not progress very rapidly. He
spoke fluently in Hindustani and some of the other Indian languages,
in Persian and Pushtu, and was picking up Turki while we were in
Turkestan; English, too, he was becoming better acquainted with: all
these he learnt by ear, but Hindustani and Persian he could both read
and write.

About this time I found leisure to take up painting again. Rather
fancying myself in Afghan turban and robes, I painted my portrait from
the reflection in a hand-glass. It happened to turn out a success,
and created quite a little mild excitement. The Armenian was not the
man to let my light shine under a bushel: he looked upon me as a sort
of possession of his. Anything that I could do and others could not,
reflected, he seemed to think, a great deal of credit upon him: so
that he trumpeted the news abroad. I had a great many visitors, and
every second one asked me to paint his portrait. The Armenian said:

“Sir, you not do. This man, who is?”

Which sentence, though it sounds odd, is simply a literal translation
of the Persian, “Sahib, shuma ne kunēd. In mard, ki’st?”

However, I consented to paint my neighbour the Mirza Abdur Rashid, and
he gave me some sittings. He had good features, and was dark-skinned
for an Afghan, so that when attired in green velvet and gold he made
rather a striking picture. The matter reached the ears of His Highness
the Amîr, and he sent for the two portraits. They were taken to the
Palace just as they were, though the Mirza’s turban was unfinished.
When the pictures were brought back I heard that His Highness was
pleased with them. My own portrait I rolled up and addressed to
England, intending to have it posted home by one of the British Agent’s
men, who was returning to India on leave. In the evening, just as I had
addressed it, His Highness sent for it again.


  Dr. Gray and his Armenian Interpreter,
  from a photograph by Van der Weyde.]

I went to the military Durbar the next day, Tuesday: His Highness was
very gracious. He spoke some time about the Moolah upon whom I had
operated for goitre, and desired me to instruct the native dressers:
then he spoke about the portraits, praising them highly, and finally
told me that he would himself give me sittings for a portrait.

A day or two afterwards a carpenter arrived to take instructions for
the making of a frame to stretch the canvas upon. The next day I caught
a most severe cold. It was the end of October, the sky was clouded
for the first time, and the weather seemed suddenly to have become

[Sidenote: Dietary Difficulties.]

Though the canvas was soon ready it was a long time before I began
the Amîr’s portrait. The cold I had became better, but, after two or
three days, instead of feeling well I felt much worse. I could not
rouse myself to anything, and I had a constant backache. It struck
me suddenly I might have fever. I had; rather severely. It was quite
different in type from the first attack I had had. Unfortunately, a few
days before, I had discharged my cook for some rascality or other, I
do not remember what, and the only man who could cook in the European
way for me was my syce, or groom. This was the man who had been in
the Burmese Police, and who cooked dinner for me the day we went to
Takh-ta-Pul. He could roast meat and make a rice pudding, but that was
about the extent of his capabilities in the cooking line. With the
fever on I did not seem to hanker after the grey, thin, greasy liquid
he denominated “soup,” neither did I seem to desire the slippery,
sloppy, watery dish he called “custard” pudding. As bread was not to be
obtained, but only the leathery chupatti, which is not appetizing when
you are ill, the fact began to force itself upon me that I should be
obliged to undergo the Hakim’s treatment of fever--that of starvation.

However, in a day or two it reached His Highness’s ears that I was
ill. He at once ordered the two chief Hakims and all the Hindustani
Hospital assistants to wait upon me, and discuss what could be done for
my relief. It was kind and gracious of the Amîr; but it appeared to me
that if I submitted to the treatment of all or any of them, I should
be likely to find myself in a great deal more danger of dying than
there otherwise seemed any immediate probability of. But His Highness’s
thoughtful kindness was not exhausted. Hearing that food suitable for a
sick European was not to be easily obtained from the bazaars, he gave
orders to his chief Hindustani cook, a man who had been imported from
one of the hotels in India, to prepare anything that seemed agreeable
to me. The cook came every day for orders. I had soups, bread, beeftea,
jellies, puddings, and fruit, and, in addition, His Highness sent me
some claret and a bottle of Chartreuse.

I learnt a good deal about malarial fevers from a patient’s point of
view before I was well again, for I had three consecutive attacks of
fever, each differing from the preceding one in its manifestations.

When I had been ill rather more than a fortnight, His Highness wrote me
a very kind letter enquiring after my health; this is a translation of

    “To the Honourable and Respected Dr. Gray,--

    “May Almighty God grant you health and safety. I write to you for I
    wish greatly to hear of your health. My prayer to God is that I may
    see you always well and happy.”

  “Finis.”   “I have written it.”

At different times salaams and messages of condolence were received
from the Commander-in-Chief and other people. I was gratified to hear
that the soldiers and townspeople were wishing for my speedy recovery,
for, certainly, it is a privilege to feel you have been of use.

I became better, and went for an hour’s ride, which I enjoyed
immensely, but the next day the second attack came on violently.
During this attack, when I was becoming better, I had the honour of
receiving a Royal visit from the Amîr--by deputy.

[Sidenote: The Royal Visit by Deputy.]

His Highness sent one of his chief secretaries, Mir Ahmad Shah, a tall
and courteous man. I received him, of course, in my bedroom, as I was
not able to get up. He brought me many kind messages. His Highness had
signified his intention of visiting me personally, but explained that
he was prevented by his lameness and the press of State business. He
was greatly pleased with the work I had already done in his service,
and was convinced that I had no other motive or desire than to serve
him faithfully. I endeavoured to express my gratitude for the honour
His Highness had done me, and for the many kindnesses he had showed me
while I was in his country.

The next day the secretary of the British Agent arrived bearing the
Sirdar’s congratulations to me, upon being the recipient of such signal
marks of His Highness’s favour.

Some time before I was taken ill I had written to Dr. Weir, the health
officer of Bombay, to whom I had been introduced when in India, for
some vaccine lymph, and a day or two after my “Royal visit” I received
a letter from him. He said that all our mutual acquaintances were well,
but that he himself was suffering from a recurrence of the fever he had
caught some years before in Turkestan! This was cheerful news, seeing
that I had had the Turkestan fever five weeks already. I said to the

“I suppose then this will stick to me for the rest of my days--even if
I get better now, which seems doubtful”--for my liver was touched.

But the Armenian was equal to the occasion.

Oh, no: that fever my friend had was quite another kind: it was caught
at such a place--I forget where he said--and was a very bad fever.
Everybody knew that fever, it came on sometimes years after. But this
fever it was no-thing.

“Sir, if you very ill, how you can smoke papyrus--cigarette?” and with
other specious words did he beguile me. I got better after some days,
and wrapping up carefully, for I concluded I must have got a chill the
time before, went for a short ride. I was all right that day, and went
out the next day for two hours, and came home feeling utterly fagged
and aching in every bone. Back came the fever. The temperature chart,
this time, was quite different from either of the other two.

The snow commenced, but we did not have very much, not more than we
often have in England, but the winds sweeping across the plains were
bitter. This attack lasted about a month. In the middle of it I heard
that one of His Highness’s Page boys, rather a favourite one, named
Samander, had met with an accident. While out riding his horse had
become unmanageable, and the boy’s leg had been dashed against a tree.

The Hindustanis, who had been sent for, came to me to make their
report. There seemed some doubt whether the leg was broken or not. They
had, however, put on a splint, but when I asked what kind of splint, I
found that it was one that was quite unsuitable if the leg were broken.
There seemed nothing for it but to get up and dress and go off and see.
Wrapping up well, and taking a stick, I hobbled off with the Armenian
for the Palace. The snow was not very deep, not more than six or seven

[Sidenote: Attempt upon the Life of the Amîr.]

I found Samander living in a Turkoman khirgar, in the Palace gardens.
The khirgar was a circular dome-shaped wigwam, about fourteen feet
across by fourteen feet high, and was made of a number of light but
strong wooden uprights, which bent inwards seven feet above the ground,
their ends fitting into a wooden ring above. It was covered over with
thick felt and then with canvas. A wooden door was fitted on one
side--this is not used in the summer--and a carpet hung over the door.

Around the khirgar was a small trench to carry off melted snow or rain.
Inside, the floor was carpeted, and my patient was lying on a mattress
on the ground. The khirgar was very warm, for in the centre was a large
brazier with glowing charcoal. Light was to be obtained only by opening
the door or by lighting a lamp. In the summer, when the felt-covering
is dispensed with, light is obtained by pushing back a flap of canvas.

On the boy’s thigh there was bandaged a wretched little splint, quite
useless if the bone were broken. I soon had it off, and found that the
bone was broken in the lower third. It took some little time to have a
long splint made and to put it on. Several Page boys, who were living
in other khirgars, came in, and also the official whose duty it is to
look after the boys. When I was putting on the splint, I noticed the
scar of a bullet in the upper part of the boy’s thigh. I enquired how
he had got it, and then I heard the story of the attempt upon the life
of the Amîr which had taken place the year before.

His Highness was reviewing the troops on the plains outside the town of
Mazar. The pain of his Sciatica was troubling him so that he was not on
horseback, but sat in an arm-chair, which was placed on a large square
mound or platform some four or five feet high, artificially made. His
Highness sat smoking a cigarette, the Commander-in-Chief, Page boys,
and officials were grouped around his chair, and seated on the ground
by his side was Captain Griesbach, C.I.E., the geologist.

An Herati regiment was passing, and suddenly one of the men stepped
out of the line, threw up his rifle, and fired point-blank at the
Amîr. Just at that moment His Highness leaned over to speak to Captain
Griesbach, and the bullet whizzed under his arm, through the chair
back, and caught Samander just below the hip.

The Amîr continued what he was saying without a pause, and still smoked
the cigarette. The Commander-in-Chief sprang instantly from the mound
and rushed on the man to cut him down.

Then the Amîr shouted “Stop!” But it was too late, the
Commander-in-Chief’s sword flew to pieces on the man’s head, and the
bystanders instantly dispatched him.

The Amîr, presumably, wished to go into the matter, for the Herati was
a known shot, and to enquire the motive of his action with a view of
determining if he were alone in the plot. But whatever may have been
suspected I never heard that anything definite was found out. It was,
however, an evil day for the officers of that regiment.

Samander receives a larger pay than any of the other Page boys, and is
naturally somewhat of a favourite.

It was two hours before the splint was made and properly put on, and at
the end of it I was quite done up. I found that the fact of my arrival
had been reported to the Amîr, for His Highness most kindly ordered the
palanquin of one of the Princes to be brought to the khirgar to convey
me back to my house. I visited Samander once or twice after that to see
that everything was all right, but my temperature began creeping up in
a way that was not at all satisfactory, so that I had to give up going
and simply trust to reports from the Hindustanis.

[Sidenote: An Earthquake.]

We had an earthquake a few days after this, at half-past five in the
afternoon. The bed shook and the door and windows rattled, but it was
quite a slight affair compared with the Kabul earthquakes. I called out
to the Armenian, who was in the next room playing cards, to ask if he
felt the shock. He came in to know if I wanted anything.

“Didn’t you feel the earthquake?” I said.

“The what, sir?”

“The earthquake! Why, man, the house shook.”

“Ah!” said he, “I did think a little the earth shivered, but I not

On Christmas day my fever departed. Some time before, I had written to
Mr. Pyne to ask him to send me a cook, if he could find one, and on
Christmas day a cook arrived bringing a box of newspapers, Graphics
and Punches, and a case of briar pipes, which had reached Kabul from

The Graphics and Punches were a constant source of amusement to
myself and my visitors, the older as well as the younger ones. I was
astonished to find how little idea some of them had as to what a
picture was intended to represent.

For instance, in one of the Christmas numbers--it was of the year
before, but that didn’t matter--a pig was represented standing up on
his hind legs to take a view of the world outside his stye. Little
Mahomed Omer, son of Perwana Khan, could not make the picture out at
all; finally he came to the conclusion that it represented a horse in
his stable. The Armenian allowed him to remain with that idea.

The pig is unclean to the Mahomedans, and he would have been very
disgusted if he had thought that we ate such a nasty creature.

A frequent visitor at this time was a young man named Shere Ali, who
was, I was told, the second son of the ex-Mir of Bokhara. A friendship
commenced at that time between us which, like that of the Mirza Abdur
Rashid, lasted till I left the country.

Shere Ali was greatly interested in “Misterre Punch.” I had to go over
the jokes and explain them to the Armenian--sometimes, in the more
subtle ones, a matter of no little difficulty--and he translated them
to Shere Ali in Persian. Shere Ali generally laughed, though I fancy
from the little I had picked up of Persian, that the Armenian made his
own point when he had missed mine. He was quite capable of both seeing
and making a joke, as I found in after years when I brought him to

With the aid of the pictures I gave the Armenian vivid descriptions of
London and the glories thereof. One day, somewhat to my surprise, he

“Sir, let me see London. If I die then--don’t matter!”

The officer who had charge of the Page boys, came to see me; he was
a short thick-set man, and sensible. He asked me many questions in
surgery, and seemed willing to learn a few simple remedies in case of
emergency. I was very glad to teach him.

[Sidenote: Generosity of the Amîr.]

At this time I was brought very low in the world as regards tobacco.
I had been reduced to smoking in a pipe broken-up cigar stumps which,
in view of this difficulty, I had carefully saved. Tobacco, except
uncured, and to me unsmokable Persian tobacco, was not to be obtained
in Mazar. I said to the Armenian, “I shall be cleaned out of tobacco
soon--and then, Chaos!”

He said, “Sir, I not know Chaos, what is; but Amîr Sahib has plenty of
cheroot and cig-rette.”

“That is very likely,” I said, “but I haven’t.”

“You not care it, I write him, Amîr Sahib, and he give it you. What a
few cigar or cig-rette! no-thing!”

“No! you must not do that,” I said, “I can’t cadge of His Highness.”

“Sir, please you kind, you say nothing. _I_ write, you not write.”

Sure enough he did write. I confess I was rather ashamed when His
Highness sent me ten boxes of most delicious Turkish cigarettes, four
boxes of cigars, and a silver cigar-case and match-box.

His Highness had forbidden me to go out till I was quite strong, and
it was the 4th of January before I ventured to do so. I went to see
Samander and found his leg was progressing satisfactorily.

[Sidenote: The First Winter Durbar.]

On the 7th, it was a Tuesday, was a military Durbar, and after I had
seen Samander and had tea with him, I determined to go on to the Durbar
and pay my respects to His Highness: this was at eleven o’clock in the
morning. It was the first winter Durbar I had ever been to.

The Armenian accompanied me. He was gorgeous to look upon, being
attired in a white turban, a yellow leather postîn, and light blue

We walked from Samander’s khirgar along the paths of the garden to the
Palace. The trees were white with snow, and great icicles hung from the
branches. The sky was grey, and the water and mud by the paths frozen
hard. Everyone looked nipped up in the icy wind. In the far distance to
the south were the mountains dimly blue.

In the open space opposite the Palace was a large crowd of people
with petitions to offer or disputes to settle. Near at hand was the
Amîr’s guard with fixed bayonets. On each side of a large open window,
which reached nearly to the ground, were secretaries and other Court
officials. At the window sat His Highness.

The Armenian and I skirted the crowd and went towards the window, the
crowd very politely making way for us.

I waited awhile, until His Highness had finished speaking, then when he
saw me I took off the Astrakhan busby I had on, went forward and bowed.
His Highness enquired very kindly after my health, expressed his
pleasure at seeing me, and then directed me to come into the room where
he was sitting.

I was very glad to do so, for in spite of my furs the bitter wind began
to make me shiver.

I made my way through the door of the Pavilion into the centre hall or
passage, turned off to the left, and raising the curtains over the door
entered the room where His Highness was. Compared with the outside it
was, in spite of the open window, delightfully warm.

His Highness was seated in an arm-chair facing the open window: at his
left hand was a little table with a cup of tea on it. He directed a
chair to be placed for me and some more tea to be brought. At first
the pages placed my chair some little distance from the table, but His
Highness ordered them to bring it near. While I was drinking the tea
His Highness continued giving judgment in the cases brought before him.

Presently a man, apparently a carpenter, was ushered into the room,
bearing in his hand a curiously shaped pair of wooden sandals with
spikes of iron fixed into them. His Highness examined them, and then
turning to me explained that he had invented these things himself, that
they were to fasten on the boots to prevent a slip when one was out
shooting among the mountains in the winter.

The Amîr looked very handsome. He was dressed in a postîn of dark
purple velvet, trimmed and lined with a valuable fur, called in Persian
Pari-pásha, I think a kind of sable. He had gold shoulder knots, and a
belt covered with bosses of gold. In his right trouser pocket he had
a small nickel-plated revolver, for I saw him take it out when he was
searching for a seal to give to one of the secretaries. A fur rug was
thrown over his knees, and he wore a beaver busby ornamented with a
diamond star.

It was interesting to note the bearing and appearance of the different
men as they came before him. Almost everyone, who was not attached to
the Court, turned pale, some went white to the lips, or yellow if they
were dark skinned. I understood so little Persian then, that I could
not follow what was being said, and thus was unable to judge if there
were any reason for this emotion, beyond the awe that the presence of
majesty inspires.

Presently, with a suddenness that was quite startling, the Amîr turned
to me, and said in Persian:--

“Men in autumn and winter are blown upon by _cold_ winds, and at once
take _hot_ fever (tâp-i-gurrum). In your eyes, what is the reason of

It seemed pedantry to talk pathology, and I spoke in a sort of parable.
I said:--

“A gun is loaded with powder and shot, the trigger is pulled, the cap
flashes and the gun explodes. The men of this country are the guns;
they are loading themselves with a poison rising from the earth by
breathing it constantly, the malarial poison. A slight shock, the chill
of the wind, brings about the explosion, and fever seizes them.”

His Highness seemed struck by the plausibility of this explanation, and
presently he said,

“Darûst, darûst, it is right!”

He asked me several other questions, but I am sorry I have forgotten
what they were.

[Sidenote: The Dining-room.]

The room we sat in looked not unlike an English drawing-room. The
windows, however, were different. They were wider than English windows
generally are: the larger ones were filled with plain glass, the
smaller with coloured glass; over the lower part of one large window
was a sort of fretwork of wood, which, as the light was reflected from
the snow outside, was rather a relief to the eye than otherwise. The
door panels and the window jambs were somewhat elaborately carved: they
were neither painted nor polished. Draped over the doors and by the
side of the windows were silk curtains of different colours. The floor
was covered with Persian and Turkestan rugs. The walls were white, and
the ceiling decorated rather crudely with colours. The ceiling sloped
up on each side to a beam, supported at each end by a slender wooden
column carved in distinct imitation of a Corinthian column, but not
fluted. Ranged against the wall were two or three arm-chairs covered
with velvet, and some small tables with writing materials, vases, and
lamps upon them. The table-covers were mostly of velvet embroidered
with gold: one or two were Indian. In the middle of one wall was what
looked like a white “overmantel,” though there was no fireplace. This
was more Oriental in appearance than the rest of the room, the keynote
of the decoration being the Saracenic arch. [Illustration: Saracenic
arch] On the shelves and in the recesses of this were small ornaments
and vases of various kinds. Below this decorative arrangement, and in
the position usually occupied by the fireplace, was a table covered
with heavily embroidered velvet, and on it were two lamps and several
brass candlesticks with many branches, each holding a wax candle, so
that the whole looked rather like an altar in a High church. In the
window that had fretwork over it was arranged a bank of flowers in
flower-pots. The centre of the room was clear, except that exactly in
the middle was a large brass brazier filled with glowing charcoal.

At the far end of the room, away from the Amîr, were seated,
cross-legged on the ground, the chief officers of the army, with the
exception of the Commander-in-Chief, who was ill.

At about two o’clock in the afternoon the Durbar was over, the
petitioners and disputants disposed of, and His Highness arose. We all
stood up.

His Highness did not leave the room, but took another chair in front
of a small oblong table with a white table-cloth which the servants
had brought in. I did not know whether I was to stop or go, and was
debating the point in my mind, when the Armenian, who was standing
behind my chair, leant over and whispered:--

“Sir, please you stop, Highness wish it.”


[Sidenote: The Breakfast.]

His Highness sat at his table, and a small table with a table-cloth
was placed in front of my chair. The officers sat where they were. In
front of them was spread a large leather cloth, and over it a white
cloth--I was going to say “table-cloth,” but it was on the ground. Then
lunch, or breakfast, was brought in. The dishes were protected with
curiously shaped covers, which were perforated in designs. One or two
were placed upon His Highness’s table, and several more in front of the
officers. His Highness helped himself, and then the dish was brought to
me. A knife, fork, spoon, and plate were provided for me, though they
are not used in the East except by Europeans.

I was glad of the fork and spoon, for in those days I had not learned
how to eat pilau with my fingers. I was just in front of His Highness,
and the Armenian told me that the servants--who really waited very
well, considering--were reprimanded rather sharply by His Highness for
not bringing me a clean knife and fork for each dish: they were not
used to such things.

First, I had a sort of pancake, tasting something like that ancient
sweatmeat called a “jumble;” after that some meat, I didn’t know what
it was, cooked in a curious way; then some pilau. Altogether I thought
it very tasteful. Afterwards, they took away the white table-cloths
and put others in their place, mine was blue velvet embroidered with
gold, and fruit was brought, mostly grapes, which had been kept from
the summer in cotton wool. His Highness lit a cigarette, and I, pulling
out the silver cigar-case, lit a cigar. For the officers, the native
chillim or hubble-bubble was brought and handed round to them one after
another. Each drew a volume of smoke into his lungs and handed back the
pipe to the servant, who, after blowing the smoke out of the tubes,
passed it to the next guest.

Then the officers got up, salaamed, and filed off. I did not. I said to

“I am a stranger, and it is the Armenian’s business to direct me: he
has not hinted that the time has arrived to withdraw: meanwhile, I am
very comfortable. If an error is being committed, on his head be it.”

There was no occasion to disturb myself. Presently, tea was brought in
and I had another cigar.

Meanwhile, His Highness was busily engaged: secretaries came in, spoke,
received their directions and went. Letters or reports were brought
singly and in bundles. His Highness opened them and generally answered
each one there and then; writing his answer on the flyleaf of the
letter or on the back of it. Then he placed it in a fresh envelope,
fastened it down, addressed it and threw it on the ground. These
letters were gathered up by one of the secretaries. Other letters,
after he had read them, he handed over to a secretary to answer, but
these were comparatively few.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Thoughtful Consideration.]

In the midst of all this business a youngster, about ten years old,
dressed in tunic, trousers, and turban, came into the room; as he
entered the silence of the room, he piped out in his young penetrating
treble the usual salutation,

“Salaam aleicoum,” “God be with you.”

The Amîr, who was engaged reading a letter, answered mechanically,

“W’aleicoum”--“and with you.”

Then he looked up to see who it was: when he saw the small Page
boy he said something in Persian, in which I recognized the word
“Khunûk”--“cold.” The boy disappeared and presently came back with a
postîn on. I was rather struck that His Highness, in the midst of the
great amount of State business he transacts, should notice and give
orders about such a small thing as the possibility of a little Page boy
taking cold.

When the press of work was over, His Highness turned and addressed
some very kind remarks to me. He said, among other things, that he
had examined and found that I was more intent upon doing my duty and
serving him faithfully than upon anything else. In future, I was not
his servant only but his friend.

He appointed a time for me to vaccinate the little Prince Mahomed Omer,
and--which concerned my comfort considerably--he, at a suggestion
from the Armenian, ordered the Afghan bath-rooms attached to my house
to be heated any or every day, whenever I wished. This is rather an
extensive operation, and one to which, considering the price of wood,
my income hardly stretched. Wherefore, I was duly grateful. I had some
more tea, finished my cigar, and then asked permission to withdraw.
Before I left, His Highness desired me to visit the Commander-in-Chief,
who was ill with fever. I bowed and retired. We came away at half-past
four, and the Armenian was jubilant at His Highness’s kindness and
condescension. With Oriental exaggeration he said that no man had been
so favoured as I.

“Highness very kind upon you: very much wish you,” he said--meaning
“like you,” I suppose.

We visited the Commander-in-Chief, drank the necessary tea, and then
I got home rather fatigued by the excitement and the exercise out of
doors. I took off my furs and lit a pipe for a quiet evening, but had
to go out again to see a Page boy who was very ill with fever.

I was on the watch that evening and the next morning to see if I should
have any return of fever myself. As there was none, I had my horse
saddled, and started, after breakfast, on a visit to the Hospital,
where I had not been able to put in an appearance for several weeks.

I enjoyed being out on horseback again. I was riding a young horse that
the Amîr had given me. He seemed to enjoy being out also, for presently
he began to toss his head and snort and plunge.

The Armenian said, sagaciously,

“Sir, he very fool horse.”

The plunging was not sufficiently satisfying, and he commenced rearing
and kicking. Unfortunately the fever, in addition to making my legs
shaky, had taken a large slice off the normal amount of pluck that one
ordinarily possesses, so that in proportion as his jubilation increased
mine diminished.

The road was very lumpy and frozen hard, and it seemed to me that the
“fool horse,” in his lunatic caperings, must inevitably slip down and
break my leg. There was an evil time to come. We had got through the
Bazaar without any serious mishap when, just outside, we happened to
come alongside of another man on horseback. This was what my “fool
horse” desired; the very thing he was waiting for--he always was a
regular bulldog for worrying with his teeth, and was a ruffian at
striking: up he reared and simply pounced on the other horse. He caught
him by the neck and shook him, and drove him up against a wall. Both
reared upright, and then commenced the screams and the strikings of
two incensed stallions. The other man was even less happy than I, for
my brute was getting the best of it. I wondered which of us would be
killed, and began to think it would be the other man.

The Armenian shouted,

“Sir, please you hit him with spur.”

I hadn’t a spur to “hit” with, for, knowing the horse would be “fresh,”
I had not put any on. I tore at his mouth with the curb, and hit him
over the head with my fist. It seemed to astonish him, for he let go
the other horse, and settled on his four feet again. It was all the
other man wanted: he was out of sight round the corner before you could
say “Parallelopipedon.”

We got outside the town and had a large open space to cross. Some
horses in the distance were neighing, and, of course, mine answered
them shrilly and fiercely, and he tried to be off at a furious gallop
to get another little boxing match. This I was able to put a stop to,
fortunately, for the ground was much broken up and very slippery.
Having nothing better to do, therefore, he reared and kicked again. We
reached the Hospital at last, and, with shaking knees and a thankful
heart, I dismounted.

[Sidenote: The Hospital in the Winter.]

There were a great many sick soldiers at the Hospital, some sixty or
seventy. I was not yet strong enough to attend to them all, and I chose
out about a dozen who were very ill.

Some of them were mere lads, and there they lay coughing and panting
with acute inflammation of the lungs. It was in times like this that I
missed so frightfully the well-appointed hospitals and the women nurses
of England. The soldier attendants did their best, no doubt, but very
few showed any sympathy or gentleness with the sick. In many of the
cases it was necessary for the patient to sit up for me to listen to
the sounds of the chest. In England the nurse slips her arm under the
shoulders and head of the patient and helps him up. Here a curt “sit
up” was all. One or two could not do it, and I had to lift them.

Coming away I decided that the Armenian should ride the “fool horse”
and I would take his. He said:--

“Oh, yes, sir, I can ride him, but I ’fraid we make late for your
lunch. Better this--you take mine, I take soldier’s horse. Other horse
come afterwards. In my o-pinion we get home soon this way.”

“Very well,” I said, “_I_ can’t ride him home; it is too much.”

“Yes, sir,” he answered, “it is _three_ much! a little you not strong,
and he very fool horse.”

It was a long time before I could make him believe it was “_too_ much,
and not _two_ much.”




    Sent for to the Palace. Fragility of Europeans. The Amîr’s postîn.
    The Bedchamber. The King’s evening costume. The guests. The Amîr’s
    illness. School in the Durbar-room. The Amîr’s conversation.
    Companies of Khans: the water supply of London: plurality of wives.
    The Amîr is bled. Further conversation. His Highness a physician
    in Turkestan: an iron-smith: a gold-smith. Drawing. Discussion
    as to the Amîr’s portrait. Amîr’s choice of costume. The Shah of
    Persia. Portraits of the Shah in ignominious places. The rupee and
    the Queen’s portrait. Cigar holders. Concerning Afghan hillmen.
    Dinner. The Amîr’s domestic habits. Amîr’s consideration for
    subordinates. Conversation concerning European customs. The new
    Kabul. Native drugs. Soup and beef tea. The paper trick. Page-boys
    with fever. The Kafir Page. European correspondence. Vaccination
    of Prince Mahomed Omer. Afghan women. The Prince’s house: his
    chamber: his nurse. The Prince. The operation. Abdul Wahid. Afghan
    desire for vaccination. The Armenian’s useful sagacity. An Afghan
    superstition. The dreadful old lady and her suggestion. The nurse’s
    remark. The Agent’s secretary. His comments upon Bret Harte: the
    meaning of “By Jove”: the Christian belief in the Trinity. European
    “divorce” from an Oriental point of view: plurality of wives.

That evening, about seven o’clock, a messenger came from the Palace
saying that the Armenian was wanted at once by Amîr Sahib. I was
a little startled, wondering if anything had gone wrong. About
half-an-hour afterwards the Armenian, accompanied by a soldier with a
lantern, returned, and said that His Highness wished to see me.

[Sidenote: Sent for to the Palace.]

Outside it was dark and freezing, and His Highness had been kind enough
to send by the hand of the Armenian a postîn for me, lest I should take
a chill again and have a return of fever. For, as the Armenian put it,
“Highness say Afghan is stone man, heat is not hurt it, cold is not
hurt it; but European very soft man, likes flower, soon cold is take

The postîn, of crimson velvet lined with a valuable fur called in
Persian, “khuz”--I think a species of marten--was made to fit the
noble proportions of the Amîr. On my lean figure it showed to better
advantage wrapped round as a cloak.

Guided by the soldier with his lantern, we reached the Palace and
waited a minute or two in the anteroom: presently a Page boy came out
and called me in. I wondered what could be the matter. But it occurred
to me that it could not be anything disagreeable or His Highness would
not have sent me his own postîn.

I was shown into His Highness’s bedroom--at least, so I conjectured,
though it bore no resemblance to our ideas of a bedroom. It was a
smaller room than the one I had been in at the Tuesday’s Durbar, and on
the other side of the centre hall or passage.

At one end of the room was His Highness, seated on a divan or broad
couch which was covered with furs. In front of him was what looked
like a large ottoman covered with a quilt which was partly concealed
by a cover of Indian embroidery. This was a “sandali,” and underneath
was the charcoal brazier. On the divan were piled cushions and large
pillows covered with velvet and silk brocades.

His Highness wore a small white turban of Indian muslin: over his
shoulders was thrown a robe of crimson silk lined with fur and almost
covered with gold embroidery. The room was brilliant with innumerable
wax candles. Two brass candlesticks with branches stood on the
sandali, and many more were placed round the room. It was a very
striking scene. Several Page boys were standing at the far end of
the room--there was no talking or whispering--and, at a sign or word
from His Highness, one of them moved silently to do as he was told.
Seated on the ground at the side of the room, about midway between His
Highness and the Page boys, were three of the Court: one was the Sirdar
Usuf Khan, the Amîr’s uncle; another was the Master of the Horse,
Sirdar Abdullah Khan; and the third, my old friend, General Nasir Khan.

I bowed to His Highness and he ordered a chair to be placed for me:
then tea was brought.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Illness.]

His Highness said that he hoped I should suffer no inconvenience
from the night air, and that he had asked me to visit him as he was
suffering from a severe chill. He had studied many Persian books on
medicine, he told me, and was intending to take certain medicines. He
took the trouble to show me the medicines and explain their action.
I asked permission to make an examination of his temperature and
condition, and found he had four degrees of fever (102·4 F.). Granting
that the medicines acted as he supposed, he was adopting a rational
line of treatment, and I told him so, explaining, at the same time,
that I had not studied the action of the remedies he spoke of. He
talked to me for some time and told me, amongst other things, that he
had studied medicine while he was an exile in Russia. He said that he
never learnt Russian, but that he could talk Persian, Arabic, Pushtu,
and Turki.

By-and-by sweetmeats and fruit were brought in, pomegranates and
pears, oranges, grapes, and dried fruit. His Highness offered me a
cigarette, or rather directed one of the Pages to do so, and I smoked
while he spoke to me. At about nine o’clock His Highness indicated that
he felt inclined to sleep, and I was permitted to retire.

The next morning at eleven o’clock I was sent for again. It was snowing
fast and I had to put a plain cloak over my finery, leaving it, of
course, in the anteroom when I reached the Palace. I found His Highness
very little better; he was feverish and still had pain in the shoulders
and back. He said he had had a very restless night, with much fever.
The attendants said he had been delirious, but I doubt if they knew
what they were talking about.

After talking to His Highness for a short time we all retired to the
Durbar room and His Highness got a little sleep. For us the inevitable
tea was brought, and I smoked cigars and talked to the Armenian.
There were several small Page boys in the Durbar room; they were
seated cross-legged on the ground round the charcoal brazier and were
receiving lessons in reading and writing. One or two were handsome
boyish boys, and another was very pretty, but in face more like a
little Italian girl than a boy.

At half-past one breakfast--in my case lunch--was brought in. It was
practically a repetition of Tuesday’s, except that His Highness was not
there. After lunch I smoked on till I had finished all the cigars I had
in my pocket, and then one of the Chamberlain’s, my friend, Shere Ali
Khan, brought me some cigarettes. We had tea again, two sweet cups, and
half a cup without sugar.

At four o’clock in the afternoon I was called in to His Highness. He
still had some fever, but felt better. There were several people in the
room. Beside the Pages there were the two chief Hakims, Abdul Wahid and
Abdur Rashid, and other people, some of whom I knew and some I did not.
All were seated on the ground round the room, and everyone was very

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Conversation.]

His Highness addressed his conversation to me. He told me much about
the customs of the Russians that he became acquainted with when he was
in exile; and he asked me many questions about London. He seemed to
know a good deal about it himself. He described, for the benefit of
the listeners, an English custom in which gentlemen--Khans--of wealth,
band themselves together for the purpose of trade, and that each band
is called “a Comp’ny.” He asked much about the water supply of London,
enquiring whether it were a Government undertaking, or managed by a
Comp’ny of Khans, and he dropped a remark or two that showed me he had
taken the trouble to secure previous information on the subject.

The conversation drifted to many subjects, and I remember he
proved--though I do not say entirely to my satisfaction--how much
better it was to have five wives than one. So that, although I was at
the Palace purely in a professional capacity, I found myself being
entertained by the Royal patient in most interesting conversation. At
last he said I must be tired, having spent the whole day at the Palace.
I need scarcely say that the enjoyment of listening to His Highness,
and adding what I could to his stock of information, quite made up
for any ennui I may have felt while smoking innumerable cigars and
cigarettes in the Durbar room.

We got home about six in the evening. I had then to go and see my
neighbour, the Mirza Abdur Rashid, who had sent to my house several
times. He had fever again. I did not call on the Commander-in-Chief a
second time while he was ill, as I found he preferred trusting himself
to the skill of the hereditary physicians of his country, the Hakims.

The next morning I went to the Palace again. His Highness said he was
better: certainly he had no fever, but he looked uncommonly ill. He
told me that, feeling very feverish and oppressed in the evening after
I had left, he ordered a vein in his arm to be opened and a quantity
of blood to be withdrawn. He expressed himself as feeling considerably
relieved by the operation.

In the afternoon, at half-past four, when I went again to see him, His
Highness seemed to have recovered somewhat from the blood-letting, and
was in very good spirits. He related many interesting details of his
life when he was in exile in Samarcànd and Tashkend. He told me that,
after having read up the ancient Greek system of medicine as set forth
in the Persian books at his command, he practised as a Physician among
the natives of Russian Turkestan: that in his spare time he worked at
the forge to learn the manufacture of war materials: that he learnt the
details of gunpowder manufacture, and even worked at the more delicate
and artistic handicraft of the goldsmith. He said that he tried to
learn drawing, knowing that the art can be applied to so many uses, but
that he never was able to succeed. He praised my capabilities in that
line in the complimentary language of an Oriental, and asked me to show
those in the room how one began a drawing.

[Sidenote: Drawing and Painting.]

I asked what should I draw? He left that entirely to me. A paper and
pencil being brought, I made a sketch of a man’s head, and handed it
to His Highness. He looked at it critically, and said that the only
improvement he could suggest was that the eyebrows should be a little
heavier. After I had corrected this he approved entirely, and a Page
boy took the sketch round to every one in the room.

“Wah, wah!” they said, in admiration.

The King had approved; the Courtiers admired.

His Highness then said that the only thing he could ever draw was a
tree in the winter-time. I asked him if he would honour us by showing
us how a tree should be drawn. He took the paper and pencil and drew
two trees excellently. I intended to have asked His Highness to give
me the sketch, for it was really drawn for my benefit, but one of the
Courtiers was too clever for me, and he annexed it. I did not like to
ask then, for I knew the man would get into trouble if I did.

His Highness desired me to commence a portrait of himself as soon as he
was well enough to sit. I said it would give me very great pleasure to
do so. There was a discussion then, in which the Courtiers joined, as
to the size the painting should be. Some suggested that it should be an
equestrian portrait, life size; others that it should be of the King
sitting: and many different costumes were suggested, all more or less
gorgeous. I said that I had only enough canvas for a “head portrait.”
His Highness said that if I would make out a list of anything I wanted
in the way of canvas, brushes, and paints, he would order them to be
brought from Bombay at once. I finally suggested that a head portrait
should be finished first, and if His Highness approved of it, a “full
length” could be done afterwards. His Highness had never sat for a
painting, and I think that he scarcely realized what an undertaking it
is to sit for a full length life-sized portrait. As regards costume,
His Highness said he preferred a plain coat and a fur busby. Embroidery
and bright colours, he said, were more fit for women and boys than men.

Afterwards he told us many interesting stories about the Shah of Persia
and other people. The Shah he did not take at all seriously, and, in
particular, he laughed at the custom there is in Persia of putting a
portrait of the Shah on almost everything; even on utensils that are
used for ignominous purposes. He described the Persians as not at all
cleanly persons.

[Sidenote: The Queen’s Portrait on the Indian Rupee.]

It is to be noted that the Amîr will allow no representation of himself
on vessels, stamps, or coins, and when I learnt this, I confess I
was surprised that he wished his portrait painted. However, when the
portrait was eventually finished, it was apparently looked upon as an
effigy or representation of Royalty, and, as you shall hear presently,
was treated with some ceremony and no little respect. While he was
speaking about the Shah, he happened to take up an Indian rupee, and
was spinning it about on the sandali in front of him. Suddenly he said,
as he picked it up--

“How old was Queen Victoria when this portrait was taken?”

I hesitated a moment: it was a difficult question to answer. Finally I

“It is intended to represent the Queen, but it is not a portrait of Her
Majesty as she is now, nor, I believe, as she was when she was young.”

His Highness at once said,

“You are right; every feature is incorrect--eyes, nose, and mouth; and
even the crown on her head is not the crown she wears.”

It was impossible for me to explain, through the Armenian, that the
impression on the coin was a heraldic decoration, and was not meant for
an exact portrait of Her Majesty.

Meanwhile, fruit and sweets were brought, and I lit a cigar. When I had
smoked to the stump, I stuck my pocket-knife in to hold it by.

His Highness said, “Have you no cigar-holder?”

On hearing I had not, he gave some directions to a Page boy. The boy
disappeared, returning presently with about a dozen cases. His Highness
opened the cases, examined them, and then, choosing two, gave them to

They were meerschaum and amber cigar-holders, the case being stamped
with the name of a firm in Bombay. One was in the shape of a hand
holding an oval, and the other was straight with a prancing horse
carved on the top of it. They looked so beautifully pure in colour that
it seemed a pity to defile them with tobacco smoke. However, aesthetic
ideas did not prevail, and before long I had coloured them both a rich

By-and-bye I began to think it must surely be getting somewhere
near dinner time, when just then the clock struck--it was ten p.m.
However, it was not yet the hour for the Amîr’s second meal, and he
continued conversing. He told me of the habits and customs of the
Afghan hillmen; of their agility and hardiness, their great stature and
bodily strength: that with them meat was a luxury to be obtained only
by the few and by them rarely; of the weapons they manufactured for
themselves, their love of fighting, and their love of robbery. I said,

“They must be good stuff to make soldiers of.”

“Yes,” said His Highness, “but they needed taming.”

A little before midnight dinner was brought. The Amîr has two meals in
the day: one about midday and the other about midnight. Occasionally
the time is varied. He may breakfast at ten a.m. and dine at nine
or ten p.m. He takes a cup of tea on rising, and, as a rule, some
biscuits--macaroons and other sweet cakes--are brought, though he
seldom eats them. At breakfast and dinner he eats as heartily as
one would expect a robust man to do, but not more so. The _pièce de
résistance_ being pilau, which consists largely of rice, I think
that the Amîr does not eat so much meat in the day as an ordinary
Englishman. He drinks water only, at meals. Tea he drinks in the early
morning and in the afternoon, and, curiously enough, tea is usually
brought half-an-hour before and sometimes half-an-hour after a meal.
There is no set rule as regards tea drinking. It is taken at all hours
of the day, except with meals.

When dinner was brought, a tray was placed before His Highness on the
sandali. A small table was brought for me, and the Courtiers sat on the

The Armenian, who had had a little fever the day before, had been
standing behind my chair all this time--rather more than seven
hours--and translating. He looked fagged to death. His Highness
happening to notice him standing while everyone was sitting, said, “Sit
and eat.”

The Armenian, however, did not dare to take the Amîr at his word and
excite the resentment of the Courtiers, the Chief Secretaries, and
Officers, by joining them, and, moreover, he felt shame at presuming to
sit eating in the presence of the Amîr, so that he made some excuse.
His Highness, seeing his embarrassment, ordered dinner to be served for
him in another room.

When dinner was over I asked permission to retire, and His Highness
gave orders for a guard with lanterns to conduct me to my door. We got
home at half-past one.

The next day, Sunday, I spent in a similar way at the Palace. I found
His Highness better. After being with him a short time I withdrew to
the Durbar room, where lunch was served for me.

[Sidenote: The New Kabul.]

I was called in again in the afternoon and His Highness continued his
conversation. He spoke much about European customs, and surprised me by
the extent and accuracy of his knowledge. The Courtiers sat listening,
dumb with admiration at the “boundless knowledge of the great King.”
He told me of the city of his dreams, the new Kabul, that he hoped to
build in the Charhardeh Valley, drawing a plan of the city and of its
fortifications. I enquired whether there were materials for building
near at hand; and asked where he would get his water supply from, and
so on, and he entered into all the details most willingly.

He gave me further information about the Afghans as a nation: though
he described more their obvious characteristics than those that are
unknown to European investigators. He sent for samples of native drugs
and plants, and instructed me in their alleged action on the human body.

At dinner, soup was brought for my especial benefit, for the Amîr knew
that Europeans took soup before meat when they dined. The conversation
then turned upon the making of soup, and His Highness sent for the
cooking utensils that were used by his cook and described the process
to me. I did not know how soup was made, but I knew how to extract the
nourishing properties of meat, and I described the making of “beef
tea,” giving the reasons for each step in the process.

After dinner--I forget what led up to it--I asked for a piece of paper
and a pair of scissors, and having cut a square the size of the palm
of my hand, I said to His Highness that I could cut a hole in it big
enough to put my head through: would he ask his Courtiers if they could
do the same. One after another they took the paper, and the Amîr seemed
much amused as they turned it every way, and finally declared the thing
was impossible. It was given back to me and I made the usual cuts. One
down the middle and others alternately from the middle cut and from the
outer edge--this fashion. [Illustration] Of course, it would go over my
head then. The Amîr enjoyed immensely the astonishment and discomfiture
of the Courtiers, and laughed heartily as he mocked and jeered at them.

[Sidenote: The Kafir Page, Malek.]

All this time the little Page boys had to be standing, and they
looked dreadfully tired. One of them, the Amîr’s favourite, had fever.
He was a slave from Kaffristan, about fourteen, named Malek. He was
fair-skinned and quite like an English boy in face, though he wore two
large emeralds looped in each ear by a ring of gold.

There was a hard frost that night, and we did not get home till
half-past two.

The next morning, when I arrived at the Palace, I found His Highness
was asleep, so I betook myself to Samander’s khirgar or wigwam. It was
as well I went, for I found he had fever. I took the opportunity also
of prescribing for the favourite Page, Malek. He was a nice lad, and
I had a chat with him. He seemed to be quite proud that he was not a
Mahomedan in religion, though he couldn’t quite tell me what he was. He
remembered only a few words of his native language.

Afterwards he became a very good friend to me. He had infinite tact,
and if I wished to call the attention of His Highness to any matter
without making a formal report, Malek was always ready to choose the
fitting moment in which to speak to His Highness.

I did not see the Amîr that day, for he was engaged, busily and alone,
answering European correspondence. I heard, however, that he was much

On the following day, Tuesday, His Highness held the usual military
Durbar. He sat at the window of the Palace enveloped in furs. When I
arrived, he desired me to examine the throat of a woman who was there,
unveiled, among the petitioners, and diagnose the disease she was
suffering from. When I had given my report, His Highness invited me
into the Palace and I lunched with him as before. He asked me why I
had ceased, since my recovery from fever, from sending to his kitchen
for lunch and dinner. He desired me to continue sending, so long as I
remained in the country.

After that the Amîr’s cook waited upon me daily at my house to receive

A day or two after this, on Sunday, January 19th, I was called before
daybreak to vaccinate the little Prince, Mahomed Omer. The very fat
man, Hakim Abdur Rashid, came for me while I was dressing; the servants
prepared tea and then we started. The Prince was not living in the
harem with his mother, the Sultana: he had a house of his own not very
far from mine.

The Hakim waddled by my side, talking and talking, and panting, and
still talking in his unctuous voice, and I stalked on in the darkness.
Dawn was so near that we brought no lanterns, and before we reached the
house the light of morning was gleaming on the snow. At the high gate,
leading to the gardens, was a sentry with fixed bayonet.

Just as we reached the gate an old “sakabi,” or water-carrier, was
passed in by the sentry. Before he was allowed to cross the gardens
with his leather water-bag to fill the house deghchis, or water-pots,
the sentry made him unloose his turban and droop the end of it over his
eyes so that he could see on the ground only.

“Women about?” I said to the Armenian.

“Yes, sir. Highness’ sister here and other lady.”

“Shall we see them?” I asked.

“Sir. Please you not talk. Perhaps this fat man understand. Highness
make angry if he hear.”

Our eyes were not bandaged, though the Armenian and I were a good deal
younger than the “sakabi.” The fat Hakim did not count. We crossed the
garden and went up some steps into a lobby and the Hakim called out:--

“Kussi ast?” “Anyone here?”

A door on our right opened and the old Hakim, Abdul Wahid, appeared,
and raising a curtain ushered us into the room.

The usual charcoal brazier stood in the middle of the carpet, curtains
hung by the windows and over the doors.

The curtain over a doorway, at the far side of the room, was slightly
pulled back, and, though we could see no one, it was here I heard that
the ladies were concealed.

Seated by the side of the brazier was a fair young woman with a baby on
her knee. These were the little Prince and his nurse. There were two
older women, also nurses, seated by the fire. None of the women were
veiled, but each had a cashmere shawl over her head, which she pulled
slightly across the lower part of the face. All rose as we entered.

[Sidenote: Vaccination of Prince Mahomed Omer.]

The Prince was a bright-eyed healthy-looking little fellow, with a
skin slightly darker than that of an English baby. He was very much
swaddled-up in clothes. Over his head was thrown a square of white
cashmere, which was held back from the face and kept in position by a
band round the head. A chair and a little table were placed for me,
and the inevitable tea was brought.

The Hakim and nurses sat on the ground again. The Armenian remained

Presently, I said to the Armenian, “I am quite ready now to vaccinate
the Prince.”

It was broad daylight by this time, and I had my lancet and vaccine
lymph with me.

The Armenian spoke to the Hakim Abdul Wahid, and he directed the nurse
to undress the child sufficiently to expose the upper arm. The nurse
commenced to unfasten the innumerable strings and bandages in which
the Prince was bound up. As this operation needed both her hands, of
course it was not her fault that the shawl fell back from her face.
She was really a very pretty girl. She had a little crimson jacket, a
long white camise reaching to the knee, loose oriental trousers, and
a little gold-embroidered cap, like a polo cap, put coquettishly on
one side: the embroidered cashmere shawl draped from the head over the
shoulders. As she sat with the child on her knee and the early sun
shining on them, it struck me what a picture they would make for the
Madonna and Child.

The two old ladies were not so smartly dressed. They had dark-grey
shawls and a sort of hood on the head. They looked like nuns and acted
as a “foil” to the nurse.

When the little Prince’s arms were free, he waved them about and crowed
joyously. As he lay on the nurse’s lap I was obliged to sit on the
ground to vaccinate him. The operation did not take many seconds. He
looked somewhat astonished when he felt the first prick of the lancet:
possibly it was the first sensation of pain he had ever experienced,
and he gave a little whimper before I had quite finished. Then his arm
was bound up and he was dressed again.

When we came away, the portly Abdur Rashid took a ceremonious and
courtly leave, but Abdul Wahid walked part of the way home with me. He
did not talk. He was dressed in pure Afghan costume of the plainest
kind. A loose brown coat or robe reaching to the knee, plain blue
turban and a thin brown cloak, or lungi, of camels’ hair draped in
classic folds over his shoulders.

I never saw anyone who could throw the end of the cloak over the left
shoulder so negligently, and yet have it fall in such folds as he could.

[Sidenote: Afghan desire for Vaccination.]

The old Hakim departed on his way home, and we met the “Master of the
Carpets,” Bai Mahomed Khan. He apparently had been lying in wait for
us, and he begged me to come to his house and vaccinate his infant son.
As I had plenty of lymph we went on to his house to do so. We waited in
the porch while he went in to drive all the women away; consequently,
the child had to be undressed and held by a man-servant. In the
afternoon, two of the little Prince’s Kaffir slave boys were sent to my
house to be vaccinated; and on succeeding days several more were sent
for the same purpose.

Many people, even those not attached to the Court, came and asked, as
a favour, that I would vaccinate their children. Some cases I was, of
necessity, obliged to postpone until I could get a further supply of
lymph. In Kabul, I saw many people suffering from the frightful results
of that dread disease, Small-pox, when it seizes upon those unprotected
by vaccination. In England, where vaccination is so universal, it is
rare to see a bad case.

I visited the Prince every day for about a fortnight. Abdul Wahid
generally met me at the house. He and I were to attend to the Prince’s
health and up-bringing. Abdur Rashid did not appear after the first
visit. I did not vehemently press European innovations after the first
day or two, for the Armenian said, with useful sagacity:--

“Sir, suppose you take away bandages and head coverings, and curtains,
and Shahzada Sahib take cold, blame come upon you. Better you let the
women do in Afghan custom, then no harm come for you.”

I took his advice, and the more willingly, because none of my
suggestions had, hitherto, produced the slightest effect. For immovable
obstinacy there is nothing to match the conservatism of an Eastern

I soon became friendly with the little Prince, and trotted him on my
knee, or walked about the room with him in my arms. I never kissed
him, for I thought it better to consider the religious scruples of the
Sultana. Being a Feringhi there was always a chance that I _might_ have
eaten pig.

One day he was very merry, and was laughing when I said good-bye and
left the room. Immediately one of the old nurses followed me out and
begged a hair from my head, so that no evil should result from my
having left him while he was laughing. The hair was burnt with due

[Sidenote: The Dreadful Old Lady and her Suggestion.]

This old lady asked me one day if I were not very
“dek”--_ennuié_--living alone in a strange land. She said,

“Why do you not buy a little Kaffir girl with a white skin, and make
her your wife?”

I said I was betrothed to an English girl.

“England!” she said, “that is a far journey from here. Take to yourself
a wife in Afghanistan, and your English wife can remain in England.”

You wicked old lady! I thought. I said,

“It is not the custom of my country, and is forbidden by our religion.”

She laughed.

I began to get afraid of this old lady.

Another day the younger nurse volunteered a remark. She asked me--Were
there in England any women as beautiful as she, with skin as white and
eyes as dark.

The old ladies remarked that her question was exceedingly ill-bred, and
one likely to cause offence to me.

The Armenian told her that she, and such as she, were not fit to carry
the shoes of an English lady. I said he was quite right: so she was
snubbed all round. However, she did not seem to mind, for she sat and
smiled to herself.

Meanwhile, I was continuing my Persian lessons, whenever Munshi Amin
Ullah, the Agent’s secretary, could spare an hour to visit me. One day
I persuaded him to read “Bret Harte” aloud to me. It was delicious to
see this highly-educated Mahomedan--he was an excellent fellow--sitting
cross-legged on the ground, solemnly declaiming the “Heathen Chinee.”

As I laughed, I said, “By Jove! it _is_ funny!”

He said he thought it was very difficult and very incorrect English.
I told him that was just where the joke came in. He smiled politely,
and asked why I said “By Joe!” He had often heard Englishmen use the
expression, and knew that Joe was an abbreviation of Joseph, though why
we should say “By Joe,” or who Joe was, he had not heard. I explained
the origin of the expression, and described Jove as the god of the

I asked him if he had considered the Christian Religion. He told
me he had studied the Jewish Bible and the Christian Testament. He
could not understand how a race so intellectual as the English could
accept the--to him--incomprehensible idea of three Gods. I said that
Christians believed in one God only, and I endeavoured to illustrate
the Trinity in Unity by describing the trinity that exists in every
man: of will, intellect, and deed. To do anything one must first have
the wish, or will, from that is begotten the thought how to do it, then
comes the deed. He did not discuss the point.

He said another thing that puzzled and surprised him considerably was
the custom among the English of selling their wives. I said,

“But Englishmen do not sell their wives.”

“Yes,” he said, “and, moreover, it is published in the newspapers when
they do so.”

“What on earth do you mean?” I asked.

“I mean this: an English woman becomes wearied of her husband,
and prefers another to him. The man who is preferred is called a
‘co-respondent.’ Straightway they go before the Kasi--the Magistrate,
and, after much discussion, it is decided at what price the
co-respondent shall buy the woman. The money is then paid to the

This gave me a sort of shock.

“People of my race,” he continued, calmly, “do differently. When a
woman prefers another to her husband--they kill her.”

I asked if he were married. He said “No.”

[Sidenote: Plurality of Wives.]

“Do you,” I said, “consider that a plurality of wives is to be desired?”

“Among people of my race,” he replied, “a plurality of wives is lawful;
but that which is lawful is not always expedient.”

“In what way is it inexpedient?” I asked.

“Firstly, there is the question of expense. Secondly, a plurality of
wives is a source of constant annoyance and anxiety. One wife will live
in peace with her husband; but with two or more, there is no peace: for
ever they are quarrelling.”




    Morning prayers. Early tea. The weather. Breakfast. The first
    sitting for the Amîr’s portrait: difficulties to contend with.
    The Courtier’s criticism. The Amîr’s rebuke. The Deputation.
    Conversation with the Amîr: the climate of England and Australia:
    differences in the time of day: the cause of clouds. Awe of the
    Courtiers. The favourite Page-boy’s privileges. The newspaper
    paragraph: the Amîr’s comment. Serious incident at a sitting. The
    Captain’s toothache. Present of a rifle from the Amîr. The shooting
    expedition and its dangers. Courage of the “Burma policeman.”
    The eccentric rider. The singing Afghan. The scenery of Mazar.
    Salutations in the market place. The meeting with Prince Amin Ullah.

A day or two after the vaccination of the Prince, His Highness sent
word that he would be prepared to give me a sitting for his portrait on
the following day.

Paint-box, canvas, and easel were therefore taken to the Palace at once.

The next morning I woke up as usual about six, opened the windows of
the inner room and the top sash of one of the outer windows, to let
in the light and air. I could hear Hafiz, the compounder, who was a
Priest, reciting aloud his prayers in the servants’ room. It took him,
as a rule, an hour and a half to two hours to say his prayers in the
early morning. During my illness I had had the Armenian sleep on the
floor of my room, and the noise I made in opening the windows woke him.

“Sir, how do you do?” said he.

“I open the windows,” I said. “That is how I do.”

“Sir, why you not call me? I open windows.”

“Open them, then,” I said.

“Sir!” said he, “my wish is not I get up.”

I went to the door of the servants’ room. Hafiz stopped his prayers to
say, “Sir?” I told him to bring me some tea. He boiled the water, and
brought me some tea in a very short time, then went on with his prayers.

I wanted to continue a letter home, but it was too dark to see till
half-past seven. Outside it was snowing fast: there was a dull and
leaden looking sky, and it was bitterly cold. The weather had been very
changeable. We had had rainy muggy days, hot sunshiny days, snowy days,
and bitterly cold, dull, windy days, one after another. The result
was that people went about sneezing or coughing. At eight I had my
breakfast, hot bread and milk, and then went off to the Prince’s house
to see that his arm was progressing satisfactorily. From there I went
on to the Palace. It had ceased snowing, and the clouds had broken.

[Sidenote: The First Sitting for the Amîr’s Portrait.]

His Highness asked, Where should he sit? I found I had considerable
difficulties to face. There was no platform to raise my sitter level
with the eye, nor any way in which I could get a suitable top light
which would cast some shadow under the eyebrows and chin. I had to do
the best I could with the ordinary light from a large window. The most
serious obstacle was the reflection _upwards_ from the snow outside.

His Highness sat exceedingly well, and the Courtiers and Pages
clustered in a group round, as I made my charcoal sketch of His
Highness on the canvas. It came very well--I can draw a good deal
better than I can paint--and the Courtiers said, “Wah! Wah!” One of the
chief secretaries, however, ventured a criticism on the drawing of the
eyebrow. When he had finished what he had to say, I bowed and offered
him the charcoal to continue the drawing. He seemed rather taken aback,
and said--No, no, he could not draw. The Amîr told him not to make a
fool of himself before an Englishman.

I thought the “drawing in” would be enough for one sitting, and
when I had just finished, a Deputation of citizens from one of the
neighbouring towns arrived; they waited upon His Highness to petition
him concerning a tax that had been imposed. I did not understand all
the details, but His Highness told them to dig for gold on the banks of
the Oxus. There is alluvial gold there: for I afterwards bought several
hundred pounds worth.

When the Deputation had departed lunch was brought in, and afterwards,
while I was smoking, His Highness asked me much about the climate
of England, and compared it with that of Australia. He spoke of the
difference in the time of day in those two countries at any one given
moment. He also discussed the cause of clouds in the sky, and the
Courtiers listened in awed astonishment.

I came away about half-past three in the afternoon, and Malek, the
favourite Kaffir Page boy, came out with me. I had a rough whitethorn
walking-stick in my hand, that a friend had cut out of a hedge and
saved for me in England. Malek asked why I carried such a stick, and I
explained. He thought it a poor stick for a gentleman to carry, and
ran in and brought me out one of His Highness’s walking-sticks. I said
to the Armenian:--

“Is this correct?”

“Yes,” he said, “Malek can do so.”

I haven’t the stick now, for someone “annexed” it a few months

The next day one of the Hospital assistants got into trouble. He gave a
patient too much strychnine: however, he was not punished.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Comment on the Paragraph.]

During a sitting shortly after this, His Highness told me of a report
he had had from his Agent in Calcutta, concerning a paragraph in a
newspaper there. It stated that I had given an opinion to the effect
that His Highness was suffering from gout in the stomach, and could not
live more than five years. As a matter of fact, I had given no such
opinion. His Highness told me not to allow my mind to be distressed, as
he considered either the report or the paragraph to be false.

At another sitting an incident occurred which might have given rise
to a serious mishap. It occurred in this way: I was working at the
watch chain, but presently His Highness moved and the chain became
disarranged. Without thinking where I was--for I was absorbed in
the painting--and acting as if he were an English gentleman and not
an Oriental Prince whose life had already been attempted, I walked
suddenly up to the Amîr to re-arrange the chain. There was a dead
silence, though I hardly noticed it at the time, but I saw that the
Amîr looked very hard at me. Then with a bow I went back to my work.
Nothing was said.

When we reached home the Armenian told me that he and every one else in
the Court were exceedingly startled by my walking suddenly up to His
Highness. He was just as likely to have shot me as not. It was contrary
to etiquette to approach near uninvited; and the suddenness was so very
suggestive of evil designs. However, His Highness was not seriously
annoyed. He saw at once that I meant no evil, nor any disrespect.

When I went to the Prince’s one morning, I was informed that the
Sultana wished me to paint her little son’s portrait. He was not to be
painted as a baby four or five months old, but sitting upright with a
tunic and busby on, like his father, the Amîr. The tunic and busby were
then being made. This seemed likely to be a difficult task.

I was accompanied back to my house by the Captain of the Prince’s
guard, who had had a very severe toothache for some days, and he came
to have the tooth out. He was a very large Afghan, much taller than I,
but he was very nervous about the operation. I sat him in the chair,
selected my forceps, put my arm firmly round his neck and pushed the
forceps well home.

He screamed, slid down in the chair, and kicked violently. It was no
use, however: I had him firmly, and the tooth too. He thanked me very
profusely when the operation was over.

[Sidenote: The Shooting Expedition and its Dangers.]

At the next sitting, His Highness asked if I were fond of shooting.
The Armenian at once answered, that it was the one particular delight
of my soul. His Highness said he would send a rifle to my house, so
that I might ride out on the plains and have some antelope shooting.
Accordingly, the next afternoon, when the rifle arrived, the Armenian
and I, accompanied by a servant, started on our expedition. We rode
through the city, my horse going beautifully, as quiet as a trotting
camel, till we reached the plain. Then, suddenly, he gave a scream,
sprang up in the air, flung out his heels, and----but he did not have
me off. No! I was not just convalescent from fever then, and he went
quietly again. But I was on the watch, for I knew his ways. Four times
he tried that buck. I am not a bold rider, I much prefer a quiet horse:
but, it was the best I had.

I thought I would try the rifle, and I dismounted and put in a
cartridge. The gun was a Martini-Henry pattern, made in Mazar, and I
felt myself rather a dare-devil sort of fellow in venturing to fire
it off. I aimed at a crow and pulled the trigger: there was a violent
explosion. I did not hit the crow, but the gun kicked very much and
cut my lip and made my eyes water. I determined that this should not
occur again, so, therefore, I held the rifle very tight, shut my eyes,
drew my head away, and fired. But I did not hit the mark. I asked the
Armenian if he were sure that the gun was sighted right. He said he did
not know.

I said, “You had better try it.”

He said he had a pain in his arm: so we rode on a little further.

By-and-bye, the Syce (the Burma policeman) summoned up courage and said
he thought he could shoot.

I said, “Very good. There’s a crow over there: you may shoot it.”

He was a long time getting ready, for he felt it was a dangerous thing
to do, and he turned very white. Then he fired, but he did not hit.
Evidently, the gun was faulty.

Then we thought we would come home. On the way back, we saw a man on a
young horse. He kept jumping him about the road, first one side then
the other. The Armenian turned on him in anger and told him he was a

The young man seemed indignantly surprised, and stoutly affirmed that
he was _not_ a woman.

The Armenian rode up to him, caught him by the coat and shouted, “You
_are_ a woman.”

He shouted back, “I am _not_ a woman.”

They looked very fierce, and I thought they were coming to blows. But
the young man snatched his coat away and went off at a gallop. The
Armenian followed him a little way, then came back looking satisfied.

My horse went back very quietly, but I felt sure his feelings were hurt
at not being able to run away when he wanted to. He did not often want
to run: he much preferred walking, as a rule.

That evening, the Armenian went out to dinner to the Page boy’s, next
door, and a creature came in the evening to sing in the servants’
room. How I loathed him! He had a frightful voice. I told them to shut
all the windows, but it was no use; I could hear him. He delighted in
prolonging an upper note on the vowel e-e-e-e. Imagine it! He indulged
copiously in the trill, which he produced by shaking his head. Then he
took a run down the scale, slurring one note into the other. When I
first came to Mazar, he wanted to sing to me frequently; but I thanked
him and said that, not being fond of music, I would pay him a trifling
sum _not_ to sing to me. Then he wanted to play to me on the “Rhubarb.”
Why the instrument--it is a sort of mandolin--should have the same name
as that particularly nasty vegetable, I don’t know. It has a harsh and
penetrating sound and I begged to be excused.

Among the natives, however, the “Rubâb” is a very popular instrument:
it is played with the plectrum, a piece of ivory held between the
finger and thumb. There is another instrument resembling the Rubâb,
which is played with a bow. A third, the “Seithar,” resembles a banjo
with a four-foot arm; it has three strings and is played with the
fingers. The “Tom-toms” or drums are the same as in India.

Every military camp is provided with a bronze gong on which the hours
are struck day and night, the time being taken from the noonday gun,
which is regulated by the Amîr’s repeater. In Turkestan I was for a
long time charmed by the sound of the gongs: it resembled so exactly
the distant church bells of England.

[Sidenote: The Scenery of Mazar.]

As a residential spot Mazar had its drawbacks. The utter absence of the
picturesque; the bare monotonous plain with scorching poisonous summer
and icy winter; the hopeless colony of those unhappy outcasts the
lepers; these surroundings, in spite of the novelty of the situation,
had of necessity a depressing effect on the health. There were,
however, certain counteracting elements, for besides the homelikeness
of the distant bells, there was the goodwill shown by the townsfolk.
These were mild and inoffensive people who exhibited considerable
kindliness and courtesy. Riding home one day from the Hospital I
perceived a small boy “who put his thumb unto his nose and spread his
fingers out.” In astonishment I pulled up to look at him. He at once
added his other hand, thumb to finger.

“Behold this youth!” I said to the Armenian severely, “he reviles the
stranger that is within his father’s gates.”

“No, Sir,” said the Armenian, “he give it you very great salaam.”

“My son, it behoves not the King’s Interpreter to deceive with specious

“Sir, truly I speak: this is Mazari salaam.”

I perceived then that the boy’s thumb was at the root of the nose
between the eyebrows, and that the hands were horizontal. As we
rode on I noted with considerable interest other salutations in the
market-place. The Mazari peasants salaamed as did the boy. By others,
we were greeted by the dignified bow and the “salaam aleicoum” of the
Afghan. We returned the bow, allowing a polite smile to irradiate our
countenance and answered “W’aleicoum salaam.”

[Sidenote: Prince Amin Ullah.]

Ere reaching our own house we perceived Prince Amin Ullah, aged
three, accompanied by his tutor. Stopping his palanquin the Prince
responded to our bow by touching, in the military fashion, his
astrakhan hat. After politely enquiring each other’s health--we made no
reference to the state of the weather, as is the custom in Occidental
cities--we courteously took leave of one another, saluting in the
same manner as when we met. The young Prince has the privilege of
possessing considerable personal beauty, and, added to that, he is
very precocious--added to that he shows--he exhibits, a discernment
and wisdom far beyond his years. Many are the wise sayings attributed
to this Royal Child (I have forgotten what they were, but they told
me he was very clever) so that he is indeed a true son of his august
Papa--Sire (I should say).

Then we rode in at the porch of our house, and dismounting from our
wearied but sprightly steed, we ascended the steps and sought the
privacy of our own apartments. I think that winds it up all right.




    The “villain” cook. Mental effect of a cold in the head. Portrait
    of the infant Prince: a way out of the difficulty. The Amîr’s
    reflection in the window. The Page boy and the Portrait. The Amîr
    as an Art Critic. The tea tray. Salaams to the King’s Portrait. The
    Amîr’s toilet. The start on a shooting expedition. Page boys as
    riders. The mud of Mazar. A make-shift candlestick: the Armenian’s
    comments. The sample case of cigars. The Amîr’s handwriting. A

The next day I had an awful cold in my head, so that after I had seen
my patients and had visited the Prince I stayed in. I made a sketch
of the Armenian, in which he looked precisely like a Salvation Army
captain. I don’t know why, for he certainly had not that look himself.
Then the Armenian went for a ride. He asked if I wished to go, but I
said no. I did not feel up to encountering the eccentricities of my

I had taken back into service the cook whom I had discharged for
swindling, and presently he came in. He brought lunch, and I thought I
might as well eat it as not: it was something to do. I hoped he would
not speak to me, for I knew if he did I should pour all the fragments
of languages I had learnt on his head, and then he would say, “Bôt
achcha, Sahib”--“very good, sir.” Then I should have sprung up and
withered him with a look.

He was wise, and did not speak; but he irritated me with his nervous
servility. One would think that I was violent--I am not. I never kicked
him, nor threatened to shoot him, or anything. Moreover, I even went so
far as to tell the Armenian to explain to him, for he could not speak
English, that I should _not_ tear him into small pieces and grind his
bones to powder, unless he tried to cheat me again. He pretended to
smile, but I do not think he believed me.

The roast fowl was tough: but, no, I did not tell him. What was the
good? There is no satisfaction in saying: “In murgh bisyar sakht ast.”
But if I had flung down my knife and fork with much noise on to my
plate, turned round on him suddenly--how he would have jumped--and
said, “Behold! Oh thing, born in iniquity; this fowl is as tough as
leather.” There would have been something satisfying in that; but I did
not. He would not have understood, and would have said, “Bôt achcha,
Sahib.” So I breathed a sigh through my clenched teeth, and ate a

[Sidenote: Effect of a Cold in the Head.]

I thought I would have a cigarette after tiffin, and I reached to the
fireplace for a piece of charcoal: of course, I picked it up by the hot
end, that is just what anyone would do when he had a cold.

Then the Armenian came back from his ride, and, because it was an
impossibility for me to get any more revolver cartridges, he had been
firing off my revolver. But that was not all; he must needs add insult
to injury.

“This revolver is not good,” he said.

I asked, with deadly calm, “Perhaps you would be kind enough to explain
_why_ this revolver is not good?”

“It does not make noise enough,” he said.

“If you expect a revolver to make as much noise as a home-made rifle
that nearly kicks its owner off into space, all I can say is, your
expectation exceeds your intellect.”

But I don’t think he followed me in this line of delicate sarcasm,
because he merely said, “I shot at a crow.”

“_Did_ you?” I said; “I hope you apologised.”

Then that cook brought some wood for the fire; but he crept cautiously
to look through the doorway and see if I was quiet before he ventured
in. I saw him, the villain. I am not a wild beast. Am I a wild beast?

He came in again, and he tried English this time. “Sahib, I want tea?”
he said, in a trembling voice. The maniac wished to inquire whether _I_
wanted tea. I thought, “Shall I?--shall I chill his marrow, and make
his flesh creep?” but I didn’t. I merely said “Yes.”

My cold disappeared after a day or two, and I made several sketches of
the infant Prince in my note-book. When the little tunic and busby were
finished, I borrowed them, and brought them home with me. I buttoned up
the coat and stuffed it with cotton wool, arranging the sleeves with
care, and placed the little fur busby in a suitable position. Then
I set to work to paint them. When I had finished, I painted in the
little man’s face from my sketch-book. It was an odd-looking little
painting--a man’s costume and a baby’s face.

I took it to the Durbar and showed it to His Highness. He seemed
pleased with it, and declared the eyes were exactly like his own. I
said they were:--in fact, I intended they should be when I was painting
them. I did another portrait of the little Prince some years afterwards
that was much more interesting; I must speak of that later.

His Highness, the Amîr, could not, of course, spare time to give me
a sitting every day, so that often a considerable interval elapsed
between the sittings. However, the portrait gradually progressed
towards completion.

As a painting, technically speaking, it might have been better: but as
a likeness it was not at all bad.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Reflection in the Window.]

One day after a sitting, when luncheon was brought, I happened to
notice His Highness moving his head from side to side. I wondered what
he was doing; then he turned to me with a smile, and said he saw his
reflection in the glass of the window, but was surprised to find that
it did not move as he moved. He could not understand it for a moment.
Then he saw the explanation. The portrait was standing on its easel in
the room, and it was the reflection of his effigy, not of himself, that
he saw. I thought this was a very good sign; it seemed to show that, at
any rate, I had caught the attitude and general look of the Amîr.

After lunch His Highness withdrew, and I put the easel and picture at
one end of the room and sat down at the far end with a cigar, to take a
comprehensive look at the thing. It happened to be standing in exactly
the place where the Amîr usually sits. Presently there came running in
a little Page boy with a message from the Harem serai. He turned to
the picture at once, and said, “Sahib, Salaam aleicoum.” Then he saw
what he had done, for everyone laughed. He seemed very much taken aback
and ran out of the room.

[Sidenote: The Amîr as an Art Critic.]

His Highness often gave me the benefit of his criticisms, and although
he did not profess to be a painter, his remarks were so redolent
of common sense, that they were well worth listening to. A painter
staring at his picture, day after day as it grows under his hand, may
completely overlook faults that are obvious even to an untrained eye.
Hence, I always listened to the Amîr’s remarks with interest. He could
tell me when a thing struck him as in some way not true, though he
could not tell me exactly what was wrong, nor in what way to remedy
the defect. These I puzzled out for myself. As an example: he said one
day that the paint had become rubbed, showing the canvas through, and
he pointed to the spot--on the end of the nose. It was not the paint
rubbed off, but I had put a touch of high light on the spot indicated,
and the Amîr’s remark showed me that my “high light” was too white and
too strong, or it would never have caught his eye. I altered it.

Another day, looking at the picture, he said it needed something, he
hardly knew what. Suddenly, he sent a Page off to another room and
the boy returned with a Russian tea-tray which had a picture on it--a
gorgeous sunset behind some mountains.

“Bibín,” said the Amîr, “See! something like that is needed.”

I was nonplussed for a moment: the tea-tray was too awful for words.
Then I saw what His Highness meant.

“Sahib! shuma rast megoyèd,” I said, in admiration. “Sir! you speak
truly. I will remedy the fault.”

In a few minutes I had put in a shadow behind the head, which threw
it up wonderfully. I had not noticed, till the Amîr pointed it out,
that the head had rather the look of being cut out and stuck on the
canvas. His Highness saw there was a want of harmony somewhere, and his
tea-tray showed me where.

It will be understood, therefore, that when the last sitting was
given and the last touch made, I felt a certain amount of--nervous
excitement, while I was waiting for His Highness’s dictum.

The portrait was placed in a good light. His Highness called for a
large mirror, which was placed by the side of it, and he sat for some
time comparing his reflection in the glass with the picture.

Presently he said that the only fault he could find was that I had,
perhaps, given a little too much colour to the cheeks. He said he had
that colour when he was younger, but that now he was forty-six (this
was in 1890), and his face struck him as being somewhat paler. This did
not take long to remedy, and it was shown him again.

“Darust! darust!” said he--“Right!” and the only fault now was that
the picture did not speak! He told me that Her Majesty, our Queen, had
sent him a photograph of himself, but that, in his opinion, it was
not good: that such a likeness as the one I had painted had never
before been seen in Afghanistan. This I thought to be quite likely,
and yet not be very great praise. Altogether, he was, without doubt,
pleased with the portrait. As regards my own opinion: the technique or
handling was very amateurish, not that it mattered very much, for no
one knew any more about “technique” than I did. It was like the Amîr,
certainly; but I often wondered afterwards how I could have painted a
strong head so weakly. The only explanation I had was that the diffused
light--reflections from white walls and snow--were factors that I ought
to have considered more, and in some way or other guarded against.

When the portrait was brought to my house to be varnished, there
happened to be a crowd of patients outside, and several people,
soldiers and townsfolk, waiting inside for treatment. The picture was
escorted by a guard of soldiers: the crowds outside murmured “Salaam
aleicoum!” as a lane was made for the procession to enter; those inside
sprang to their feet and salaamed also.

A message came, ostensibly from the Sultana, that the portrait was to
be conveyed to the Harem for her to see.

The Armenian, with a boldness that surprised me, refused to allow it
to leave the house unless a written order from “Amîr Sahib” could be
produced--none arrived. Possibly, this may have been a test on the part
of the Amîr to see what I should do: for he guards his personal dignity
with jealous care.

[Sidenote: The Start on a Shooting Expedition.]

When the last sitting was over we had lunch at the Palace, and I was
informed that, afterwards, His Highness intended to go out shooting.
Accordingly, when lunch (or breakfast) was over the Amîr’s shooting
costume was brought by the Chamberlain and Pages. The Amîr’s toilet is
generally a more or less public function, and I was not required to
withdraw. The coat was of olive-green cloth, lined and trimmed with
astrakhan, and ornamented like a Hussar’s coat with gold embroidery and
shoulder knots. The boots were in the pattern of Russian boots, long
ones of soft leather that can be wrinkled down: they were made in Kabul.

His Highness’s horse was waiting outside, a steady strong-looking nag,
with a padded saddle and a gold-bedecked bridle. Two other led horses
were in readiness, each with cloth of gold thrown over the saddle.
There was a small guard of foot-soldiers and several mounted men. One
carried the Amîr’s rifle; another a lance and shield--why, I do not
know; another, the chillim or hubble-bubble, the vase of which was in a
leather case slung to the saddle. This was for the use of the suite, as
the Amîr rarely, if ever, smokes the chillim, and only occasionally a
cigarette. There were several Page boys mounted: they were good riders,
keeping their seat chiefly by balance. Like most boys, they were rather
reckless, and were ready enough to exhibit their skill for the benefit
of onlookers.

His Highness came from the Palace. The guard saluted, a stool was
placed, and His Highness mounted; the bystanders murmuring “Kaìri
Allah!” just as he reached the saddle.

It was a pretty sight seeing them all start, for the day was bright and
sunny: it had been pouring with rain all the day before.

The Armenian and I went for a ride also, but we did not see His
Highness. The mud! In some of the narrow lanes, where the sun shone for
only a few minutes in the day, it was like floundering through a bog,
and you came every now and again to a seemingly bottomless hole--you
did not know there was one till you were in it. Out on the plains it
was all right; the sun had dried the surface hard.

We took “the rifle” with us, but did not get a shot at anything. I
proposed shooting at a horse that was grazing, just outside the city,
on the scrubby grass that the rain had brought up, but the Armenian
seemed to think there was just an off chance that I might hit it, and
if so I should have to disemburse lucre for same.

In the evening I was sitting comfortably on the ground in front of the
fire, leaning against an inverted chair. I found I was safer so: my
chairs were portable ones, and sometimes shut up when it was neither
necessary nor desirable. The one reliable one had never recovered after
Hakim Abdur Rashid sat on it. On a box at my elbow I had two nice
tallow candles, one in a brass candlestick and one in a bottle, and
I was peacefully smoking and trying to learn Persian. Quite suddenly
the Armenian pounced on one of my candles, the one in the bottle, and
hurried it out of sight.

“Hullo!” I said, “what’s up?”

“Sir, nothing up, but somebody coming.”

“You need not take my light if they are.”

“Oh, sir!” he said, reproachfully, “you King’s doctor, and people see
you have candle in bottle! Shame come for you!”

“Where does the shame come in?” I asked.

“Sir, you not know: men of Afghanistan very fool men, a little they
talk if they see.”

[Sidenote: The Sample Case of Cigars.]

The arrival turned out to be a messenger from the Palace with a letter
and a parcel from His Highness. The parcel was a sample case of cigars,
and the letter, in the Amîr’s handwriting, directed me to smoke and
choose: I was to let His Highness know which were the best, and he
would order a supply of them.

The Amîr’s writing is peculiar. He uses a steel pen, not the native
reed pen: like many other illustrious men, he cannot be considered a
good penman.

The next day was dull and rainy, but we had a glorious sunset. The
sky, in its depth, was a perfect blue, which grew fainter and faded to
primrose as it neared the mountains half hid in the piled up clouds.
The summits, huge and rugged, had torn through the layers of cloud
and shone red in the sun: their bold and rigid outlines, casting deep
purple shadows, were cut off from the calm of the sky by the heavy
clouds piled up behind them. These great masses, though seemingly
almost as solid as rock, had softer outlines than the rugged peaks, and
they showed great billowy waves of red light and deep shadow. Below
the peaks the clouds hung in drawn-out layers, the lights and shadows
becoming lost in grey and brown: lower, all was lost in a depth of
deep purple blue, which mingled with the rich green brown of the
darkened and foreshortened treeless plain. Sharp against all this depth
of purple and green were the leafless branches and myriad branchlets of
the trees of Mazar, red gold in the sun.




    The Mahomedan New Year’s Eve. Presents. The “Izzat” medal. Coinage
    of Afghanistan: Rupees: Pice: the “Tilla.” Levee on New Year’s
    Day. The guests: Maleks and Governors: The British Agent. Presents
    to the Amîr. The Levee as a picture. Lunch. Chess as played in
    Afghanistan. The great rider among men: his fall. The Amîr as a
    Pathologist. The steam-engine pony: his paces: his wickedness.
    Sight-seeing with the Princes. The Temple of Mazar. The booths at
    the entrance to the Temple. The Park of Mazar. Native music. The
    Afghan dance. The wrestling contests: Turkoman _v._ Mazari. Kabuli

March 21st is the Mahomedan New Year’s Day. On New Year’s Eve one of
the Chief Secretaries was announced. He entered, accompanied by some
servants carrying two trays with cloths over them. After the usual
salutations the Secretary gave me a letter. It was from His Highness
requesting my acceptance of the accompanying presents.

[Sidenote: The “Izzat” Medal.]

The cloths were lifted and I found that His Highness had conferred
upon me the gold Afghan Medal of Honour and had presented me with five
thousand rupees.

The medal was for the work I had done among the sick during the past
year, and the rupees for the portrait.

From the Sultana was a gold English lever hunting watch and chain, and
six or seven yards of stuff, the prevailing tint of which was Indian
red, but which was so woven with gold threads that it seemed red gold.
I heard that the medal was unique: it was the only one of the kind that
had been struck.

I do not think I have said anything about the coinage of Afghanistan.
The ordinary medium of exchange is the rupee. It is a smaller coin
than the kaldar, or Indian rupee, being about the size of a shilling.
Nominally, it is worth twelve annas, though there is no such coin as an
anna in circulation. A half rupee is called a kran. The copper coins
in circulation are called pice. Five pice go to the anna. There are
sixty or more pice in a rupee, according to the exchange, which can
always be found out by reference to the money-changers in the bazaars.
Formerly the coins were struck by hand. Quite recently His Highness
has established a minting machine in Kabul. I think the new rupee is
scarcely as artistic as the old: it is Europeanized, and it is said to
be worth an anna less. Pice, too, are now being made in the minting
machine. The Amîr is introducing the new rupee into circulation by
paying the soldiers of his army with that coin.

There is no gold Afghan coin in circulation, though the Bokhara
“Tilla,” worth about twelve shillings, is current. Many of the richer
Afghans hoard their wealth, and for this purpose they buy Bokhara
Tillas, or bar gold, from the alluvial deposits of the Oxus.

[Sidenote: The Levee on New Year’s Day.]

On New Year’s day, “Nau Rôz,” the Amîr held a Levee in the Palace
Gardens. I went about ten o’clock.

His Highness wore a white uniform, and over his shoulders was thrown
a dark green cloak, slightly embroidered with gold. He wore the otter
skin busby and diamond star that I painted in the portrait. He looked
very handsome.

Every one was as gorgeous as he could make himself; some looked
uncommonly well; a few ridiculous.

There was a great awning of crimson and white, supported on eleven
masts. Under it were seated, in rows--or rather kneeling, for they were
in the presence of the King--the Maliks and Governors of neighbouring
villages and towns, who had come to salaam His Highness. These were
almost all dressed in native costumes, with turbans.

The Guard, who had new uniforms, were in line, and the people of the
Court were grouped about near His Highness, who was seated in an

I had a chair to the right of His Highness the Amîr, and somewhat
behind him. The rest stood or sat on the ground. The Armenian stood
behind my chair. The day was cold and the sky grey. I was dressed
in European costume with an overcoat, on the left breast of which
the Armenian had with great pride fixed the medal. He wanted me to
wear the watch and chain outside as well. As there was no sun I wore
an astrakhan hat of the Royal shape which had been presented to me.
Bands with European and native instruments played alternately. Tea was
brought to everyone by the servants, and I had a cigar. Then came cakes
and sweets. A special tray was brought to His Highness, and he was kind
enough to send me some from it, otherwise after my first bow and his
enquiry after my health, I did not occupy much of his attention.

Col. Attaullah Khan, the British Agent, who is a very tall fine man, a
Punjabi, came escorted by his guard, and attended by his native Doctor
and his Secretary, the highly educated Munshi Amin Ullah.

He made his salaam, and was invited to sit on the Amîr’s left, on the
ground. The Secretary and Doctor were seated away under the awning.

Then presents were brought and laid at His Highness’s feet. He seemed
just to glance at them, and they were taken away. There were all kinds
of things, the cost depending upon the wealth of the giver: silk
handkerchiefs, brass work, lamps, vases, fruit, crockery; but what
interested me most were the products of the Government workshops in
Mazar--rifles, swords, saddles, boots, sun helmets, and two tables of
carved wood uncommonly well made, and looking as though they came from

As a picture, the whole scene was brilliant with colour; and the grey
sky, with the delicate pink and white of the blossoms covering the
trees and the faint green of the just budding leaves, made a very sweet
and harmonious background.

Presently the Amîr’s portrait was brought out and exhibited. Afterwards
breakfast (or lunch) was brought. His Highness’s table was placed in
front of him, and a little one was brought for me. The rest had theirs
on the ground, as usual. The chief cook waited upon me. After breakfast
a copper ewer and basin (aftabah and chillimchi) were taken to the
chief guests, and they washed their hands.

For the others long narrow damp towels, each reaching from end to end
of a row of guests, were passed along, so that a dozen or more could
wipe their hands at the same moment.

After another cigar I rose, made my bow, and retired, much to the
Armenian’s disgust. I think I was the first to go. Many people asked
to look at my medal, and the Commander-in-Chief, who was some little
distance from me, gave a congratulatory smile and bow as he touched his

I got home about half-past two; some sick people were brought, and
after a cup of tea I set to work again.

[Sidenote: The Game of Chess.]

In the evening I played chess. I had been playing with different
people, and had always been beaten. I determined, therefore, to play
the Armenian. He knew the moves, and we sat down to a game. We played
rapidly, and he grew very excited. He muttered in Pushtu, or shouted
in a mixture of Hindustani, Persian, and English. He swooped with his
Wazir or Queen, and cried “Kisht! check!” I took his Queen with a Pawn,
at which he was indignant: he said it was not fair, and he wanted his
Queen back. I began to doubt if he would ever make, so to speak, a good
player; he was too impulsive: he swooped and slaughtered right and
left. We had one game where in the end we had nothing left but a King
and a Pawn each: then he took my Pawn. I told him the game was drawn,
because I saw he would get across and have a Castle before I could stop
him; but he said--No, he had won. I appealed to the onlookers, and they
said politely, “Undoubtedly the game is drawn.” However, I consented to
a compromise, and allowed it to be drawn in his favour.

Chess as played in Afghanistan is slightly different from chess as
played in England.

In the first move, the Pawn goes only one square. The Queen is called
the “Wazir,” or Prime Minister, and stands on the King’s _right_. The
Bishop is called the “Fil,” or Elephant. The Knight is called “Asp,”
or Horse, or sometimes the “Sowar,” that is “Rider,” or Knight. The
Castle is called the “Rookh,” and is supposed to be a Redoubt or Fort.
Sometimes it is called the “Tôp,” or Cannon. There is some slight
difference in the castling, though I forget exactly what, otherwise,
the pieces have the same moves as in England.

My “fool-horse”--the fighter, with tooth and nail (that is to say,
hoof)--developed “cracked heels.” This was unfortunate, for I knew
nothing about horse doctoring, and he got into the habit of stumbling
and coming down on his nose. Twice did I remain on under these
circumstances, and proudly I said to the Armenian,

“Behold, now! I am as a great rider among men.”

“Yes, sir?” said the Armenian, “I think it you fall off.”

But, alas! Pride cometh, then cometh the fall. Then next time he came
down I went over his head. There was a sentence I had to learn in my
Persian lesson that day that seemed appropriate, it was:--“Ba zamin
ûftad, Ustoghonash rèz rèz shud,” which means, “He fell to the earth
and his bones were broken to pieces.” Not that mine were, but they
might have been. I seemed, as it were, to have lost confidence in my
horse, and I said to the Armenian, “This must not occur again; see to

“Sir! what _I_ do?” he asked.

“Sell him, or shoot him.”

But he said No; he would report the matter to Amîr Sahib at the next

[Sidenote: The Amîr as a Pathologist.]

Tuesday arrived and we went to the Durbar. After I had saluted
His Highness, and was seated, a case of epilepsy was brought. His
Highness described to me the symptoms the man was exhibiting, told
me the Persian name of the disease, and gave his own views as to
the pathology. He told me the old books said, that a man in this
condition was possessed by the Devil, “Shaitân;” but, that this was,
of course, absurd. He went on to say that he considered the disease
was due to an organism--probably, animal--having found its way into
the ventricles of the brain: the irritation caused by its presence
culminating in a nervous explosion; the outward signs of which were a
convulsive seizure, a thrusting forward of the tongue, spasm of the
jaws, a foaming at the mouth, and insensibility. He said, he wished to
administer a native medicine, but, at the same time, I was to give such
European drugs as I thought suitable for the case.

I asked, then, if some wooden stethoscopes might be made for the
Hindustani assistants, as neither of them possessed one. I had been
giving them some instructions, and had been holding classes in the
evening for the compounders. I found there was not a great deal I could
teach the Priest compounder “Hafiz.” He was very well up in his work,
and was an intelligent man, the only one I could really rely on in an

Then the Armenian considered that the time had come to speak about the
horse, and he waxed eloquent.

His Highness said, “Why ride a horse so dangerous; I have many horses.”

He told me he had a black horse, a remarkable animal, whose speed
was like that of a steam-engine. This he would send for. It had been
coveted by many of the Courtiers: one wanted it for his son, another
for himself; but His Highness would not give it to anyone. I had never
seen it. The horse was sent for. I pictured a lovely creature, like
an Arab, with a small head, slender limbs, and broad chest. Judge of
my surprise when I beheld a black shaggy pony, all mane and tail. I
thought within myself: “They are playing it low down upon the stranger
within their gates.”

But, at a sign from the Amîr, the head-groom mounted and off the pony
started. He did not gallop, canter, trot, nor walk: he simply “skated”
over the ground at terrific speed. They said he could keep the pace up
for thirty miles without stopping, and could travel from Mazar to Kabul
in four days!

Hence, if one found it necessary to move from one place to another
hurriedly, this horse seemed likely to be invaluable.

His Highness said that as this horse was not beautiful I was to choose
two other horses, handsome and swift. The pony I was to keep at my
house, and the other two should be kept in his own stable, and when I
needed them I was to send for them.

That black pony was uncanny. An evil spirit--several evil
spirits--possessed him. The first thing he did, when we got him home,
was to deliberately untie his halter, walk off to the “fool horse,”
though he was only about half his size, and fight him. He went so
quietly and seemed so gentle--just at first: but he was a fiend. They
fought furiously, striking, kicking, and tearing at each other with
their teeth. If we had not succeeded in separating them the “fool
horse” would have been killed.

[Sidenote: The “Steam-engine” Pony.]

Shortly after that, and without any hurry, he slipped his head out of
his headstall and walked off to a horse belonging to the Armenian, a
young one he had lately bought to trade with in Kabul. The young one
was frightened, and the “Steam-engine,” seeing it was an adversary not
worthy of his steel--or teeth--merely nipped him in the neck and walked
back again.

The next day I rode him to the Hospital. The Armenian was riding a
grey--a cross between an Arab and a Kataghani, a swift animal--and
one of the compounders was on the “fool horse,” who stumbled. When
we got through the bazaars I gave the pony his head, and off he
skated. I leant back and occupied myself in hanging on. He kept the
grey at a gallop all the way to the Hospital: about a quarter of an
hour afterwards the compounder arrived on the “fool horse.” I saw my
patients, cut off a man’s thumb at the wrist, then we skated back again.

One afternoon, it was in April, as I was coming back from seeing a
patient, I met the two little Princes, Hafiz Ullah and Amin Ullah,
who were aged respectively about nine and three. They were in their
palanquins, and there was a guard of about thirty soldiers. As the sun
was hot, a large umbrella was held over each Prince.

I pulled up my horse and saluted, and the elder of the two Princes
asked if I would not accompany them. The Armenian and I, therefore,
turned our horses and rode with them. I wondered where we were going.

We marched through the streets and bazaars, the guard flourishing their
almond sticks to clear people out of the way, till we reached the gates
leading into the grounds around the Temple or Mosque of Mazar.

Here the Armenian and I dismounted, and I walked by the side of the
elder Prince’s palanquin: the Armenian came behind. The Prince’s
Kaffir Page boys were there, his tutor, and other young men, officers
of his household. I had never been so near the Mosque before. They
say it is about two hundred years old. It is truly Oriental in style,
with cupola, pierced stone (lattice work) windows, and minarets. The
blue-stone--or porcelain--bricks of which it is built are of different
tints, the contrasting tints being arranged in patterns. In the
immediate grounds, or square, of the Temple, were a number of shops, or
booths, where they sold handkerchiefs, porcelain articles, and strings
of beads, or rosaries. In the front of each shop was an awning of rush
matting, supported on two poles. The sun shone brilliantly, and in the
distance the mountains glimmered shadowy blue in the heated air. The
crowds of people, and the shopkeepers, salaamed as the Princes went by.
We marched through and on into the Park of Mazar--the Chahar Bagh. The
park is about a mile in width each way. We went along the paths under
the trees till we reached a large open space, where I found there
was to be a wrestling contest. At one end of the space was a mound or
platform, about six feet above the level. On it were spread carpets;
and supported on poles was a brilliantly-coloured awning to keep off
the glare of the sun.

[Sidenote: The Spectators at the Wrestling-match.]

There were two chairs for the Princes and a chair was given to me. The
guard was arranged round, the Page boys stood in a line behind us, and
the others, including the Armenian and the tutor, were seated on the

The tutor was a smart young fellow, very polished in manner, who used
to cheat at cards in the most amusing and barefaced way. I had met
him before. Around the open space were crowds of spectators, all in
national costume: most of them with white turbans, long loose coats
of various colours, and white, baggy pyjamas, tight at the ankle. The
front ranks were seated, cross-legged, on the ground; behind them were
rows standing. The ground sloped upwards for about three feet, so
that all could see. Forming a background were the trees, all covered
with green, for the summer comes rapidly in Turkestan; the roses were
blooming in April.

First, the band played. The musicians stood in the centre, their
musical instruments being drums and pipes, or flageolets. The latter
were large, black instruments, bound with brass, and with a tone not
unlike that of the bagpipes.

They played an Afghan tune, most quaint to my ear, and the drums beat
rhythmically, but with a rhythm quite different from anything I had
heard in Europe.

Then there came forward about thirty Afghan soldiers, belonging to an
artillery regiment. They were to dance an Afghan dance. Their dress
was the usual costume of the Pathan soldier--the conical cap and small
turban, white vest hanging loose over the white pyjamas, and a short
jacket. The Princes, by the way, both wore military uniforms and belts,
with gem-bedecked buckles, and astrakhan hats of the Royal shape. The
tutor wore a plain grey tunic and an astrakhan hat of a different
shape. I sported a turban, for I was afraid of the sun, and the turban
is an excellent protection to the head. The Kaffir Pages had grey
tunics and trousers and soft grey felt hats. The Princes and their
suite therefore were European in dress.

The thirty soldiers formed a ring round the musicians; the drums beat
a sort of slow march, and the dancers walked slowly round singing a
chant in falsetto--one-half sang a verse, the other half answered.
Presently the pipes began their shrill wailing, and the dancers moved
faster, with a step something like a mazurka. Quicker and quicker grew
the music, and quicker and quicker the dance: turbans and shoes were
tossed off without a pause. The circle widened and lessened at regular
intervals, and arms were waved and hands clapped simultaneously. The
dancers became excited, uttering at intervals a sharp cry. Still
continuing the mazurka step, every dancer at each momentary pause in
the music whirled round on his toes to the right, then to the left.
Some were, of course, more graceful than others. One in particular, I
noticed--a huge man with a short black beard, and long wavy black hair
parted on one side; he was a most enthusiastic and graceful dancer. It
was a curiously stirring sight. One could imagine fiery Afghans worked
up to a pitch of excitement almost approaching frenzy. In time the
dancers became exhausted, and dropped off one by one.

[Sidenote: Wrestling: Turkoman v. Mazari.]

Then came a dance by about a dozen boys, aged about thirteen or
fourteen; they wore their hair long, and were dressed as girls. I was
not interested. Their dancing was not to be compared with, though it
somewhat resembled, that of the European ballet.

When the dances were over, tea was brought to us under the awning, and
then the wrestling commenced. This was excellent.

First came Turkoman soldiers matched against Mazarîs. They were
barefooted, and wore the small skull cap of the Turkoman, short cotton
breeches, and long loose coat unfastened.

A pair advanced and took their stand a few paces apart, near the
Prince’s platform. They watched each other a moment, then warily sidled
round. Suddenly one rushed forward and they closed, each seizing the
other by the collar and elbow. Rarely could a wrestler manage to get
both his arms under those of his opponent: when he did, the bout was
over in a moment. By collar and elbow each tried to twist the other off
his feet or trip him. It was necessary to throw the opponent, so that
he should be flat on his back on the ground. Often there was a long
writhing struggle when they both were down, till one could disengage.
Some of the bouts grew very exciting, but the Turkomans invariably
came off winners, they were so immensely strong, with such Herculean
muscles. The Mazarîs showed plenty of pluck and endurance, but they
were no match for the Turkomans. Finally, seeing that the Mazarîs were
out-matched, the elder Prince pitted the Turkomans one against the
other. The men were not very keen upon wrestling their comrades.

There happened to be two Turkomans of enormous size; the biggest men
I ever saw. It would have been folly for anyone there to stand up to
either of them, and the Prince, after some persuasion, induced them to
have a bout together.

They stood up--great giants--and walking deliberately up to one another
they grappled. There was no sudden movement. It was a sheer trial of
strength. At the end of the first round neither had any advantage.
After that they got warmed to their work, and each grew a little
jealous of the other. They commenced now in good earnest, and what
had gone before was play to what came after. The knotted muscles, the
clenched jaw, and the distended veins showed the enormous strain of
the mighty heaves. At last, with a supreme effort, one threw the other
backwards, and, like the fall of two great oaks, the giants came to the
ground together.

[Sidenote: Kabuli Wrestling.]

Then came the Kabulis, who wrestled stripped except for a cincture
round the waist. Theirs was a more complicated style than that of the
Turkomans: they seemed in excellent training.

One Kabuli, a well-built fellow, threw man after man who came forward,
though each was a practised wrestler. He had wonderful powers of
endurance. The last man but one who came against him was a strong young
fellow. He heaved the champion off the ground, carried him a step or
two and tried to fling him down. He might as well have tried to fling
a tiger down. How it came about I could not tell, they were so locked
and writhing, but in a second or two the champion was on his feet and
the young man down. These men belonged to the artillery regiment that
had danced.

During the wrestling, when the spectators became excited, and a popular
champion was in the ring, they shouted for success or groaned for
failure nearly as much as Englishmen would have done.

Then came the distribution of prizes. To the successful wrestlers the
Prince gave Turkoman coats of brilliant colours--such as the Oriental

While the sports were going on the Commander-in-Chief and some Officers
arrived. They saluted the Princes and bowed to me; but they would not
sit on the ground while I had a chair. In the presence of the Amîr
they had, at first, been greatly offended at sitting lower than I, and
had made some remark on the subject after I had left: they received,
however, such a severe reprimand from His Highness that they never
repeated it.

When the sun began to set the air became cool, and the Princes rose
and took their departure. I accompanied their Highnesses, leaving the
Commander-in-Chief and the Officers in the Park.



    Infant Prince as the Sultana’s Deputy. Reception by the Prince:
    the pavilion: the procession: the guard: costume: presents. Visit
    to Prince Hafiz Ullah: his house: conversation: presents. The
    wrestling again. Her Majesty’s photograph. Lunch with the Prince in
    the Palace Gardens. The “Royal manner.” The third day’s wrestling.
    The mother of Prince Hafiz Ullah. A drawing of the Prince.
    Adventure with the fat General: his officiousness: the after effect
    on certain patients: his bullying: the after effect on himself.
    The power of the Amîr’s name. The Amîr as a Consulting Surgeon.
    The Fast of Ramazàn: effect of the Fast. Overdose of tobacco:
    wailing. The Evening Durbar: His Highness’s remarks: danger if a
    King fasts: “Marazàn.” The Durbar as a picture. The “Pig” incident
    and the explanation. The surgical operation: attempted vendetta:
    the result: the old lady’s sympathy. Flowers in the Palace. The
    Usbàk’s artistic design: the Amîr’s criticism. The Amîr’s diary.
    The present of sugar. Official notice of return march to Kabul. The
    “Cracker.” End of Ramazàn. Preparations for the Exodus. The guard
    of Amazons.

On the following day, after I had finished my work, I heard that the
infant Prince, Mahomed Omer, was leaving the Harem Serai, where he had
been living since his recovery from the vaccination, to take possession
of a house that had been freshly prepared for him. I sent to enquire
if he would receive me that afternoon. This may seem a great deal
of ceremony when a baby is the principal personage, but as a matter
of fact it was really paying a ceremonial visit to the Sultana. She
being a Mussulman, of course did not give audience to anyone: her
son received for her. At the time of which I write the baby Prince
certainly took precedence of his brothers, the Princes Hafiz Ullah and
Amin Ullah, who were in Turkestan; but whether he now takes precedence
of his two eldest brothers, Habibullah and Nasrullah, I cannot say.

[Sidenote: Reception by the Infant Prince.]

I was informed that the Prince would receive me. I started accompanied
by the Armenian. The house was near the Harem Serai.

We were first shown into an outer garden, containing a house
in which lived my small friend Mahomed Omer, son of the Deputy
Commander-in-Chief in Kabul. Mahomed Omer was the infant Prince’s
“Commander-in-Chief.” He was dressed in scarlet and gold, and
marshalling the Kaffir Page boys in military order, he fancied himself
quite a soldier. From this garden a screened doorway led into an inner
and larger garden, the Prince’s. In this were two adjoining pavilions,
or summer-houses, one larger and the other smaller. They were open
and airy, without doors or window sashes, and were carpeted, and
hung with crimson and white. The larger pavilion had about a dozen
chairs arranged against the wall: there was no other furniture. It was
apparently a waiting-room, or perhaps a reception-room for visitors of
lower rank. As no one had arrived I sat there with the Armenian.

Presently we heard a trumpet, and a few minutes after the hoarse voice
of an officer as he shouted some word of command.

The Armenian said,

“Shahzada, Sahib, meaiyad.” “The Prince is coming.”

First entered the Kaffir Pages, marshalled by Mahomed Omer, then came
the Prince, carried in the arms of the old Hakim Abdul Wahid--the only
Hakim in the country, so the Amîr used to say, who was really learned.
Then came three of the nurses: the young one I have spoken of and
two older ones. These were brought from the Harem Serai in a covered
palanquin: after them two or three officials in uniform, whose faces
I recognized, though in what capacity they served I did not know; and
lastly, the guard of a hundred soldiers.

I came outside the larger pavilion to receive the Prince, and followed
him into the smaller one. In this was a couch covered with silk and
supported on silvered legs, modelled in the shape of conventional or
heraldic birds. There was a child’s high chair of carved oak with a
tapestry seat in the room, and a small table with ornaments on it in
the corner.

The Prince was placed in the chair, and he sat upright like a little
man nine months old. He wore a tunic of gold-embroidered silk, white
pyjamas and astrakhan hat, of the royal shape. In his hand he had a
gold rattle.

A chair was placed for me, and the others stood or sat on the ground.
After the usual courteous enquiries and some conversation, in which,
of course, Hakim Abdul Wahid was the Prince’s deputy, a large tray
of sweetmeats with loaves of sugar was placed at my feet. I do not
quite know the significance of this custom: I know it is symbolical,
and I think to symbolize the wish of the host that his guest’s future
existence, in this world and the next, may be filled with sweet
emotions. By and bye, little Prince Amin Ullah arrived, accompanied
by his tutor, but with very little State, compared with that of his

[Sidenote: Visit to Prince Hafiz Ullah.]

After the inevitable tea, I took leave of their Highnesses and
departed. On the way home, I saw the tutor of Prince Hafiz Ullah at the
window of his Prince’s house. He smiled and beckoned me to come in.
There was a sentry at the door, and the Armenian and I went in. The
house was not so good as that of the Baby Prince, nor was it as good as

Prince Hafiz Ullah was seated on the ground on a leopard skin, and as
there were no chairs I also sat on the ground on a sort of mattress.
The Armenian went off to my house, which was quite near, for some
cigarettes, and I stayed with the Prince for about an hour and a-half,
till the heat of the afternoon was less. His Highness courteously
said that I was not a servant in Afghanistan, but his friend and his
brother. He asked if I would go again with him to the park to see the
wrestling, as the sports were not over.

As this was my first visit to little Hafiz Ullah Khan, he asked me
to accept a present: a leather pocket-book, a pocket-knife, and a
walking-stick, the best he had.

I have often been somewhat surprised at the inability of most Afghans
to distinguish a genuine article from an imitation. Merchants make a
harvest in the country, by taking advantage of this want of knowledge.

At half-past four we started for the park. The wrestling and dancing
were a repetition of the exhibition of the day before. The Turkomans
still carried all before them. They were not all such hugely tall
men, though they were all excessively muscular. There were no Kabuli
wrestlers this day, but, as I happened to say I thought the Kabulis
were specially good wrestlers, the Prince gave orders for a display of
Kabuli wrestling for the morrow.

We got home at half-past seven in the evening, and I sent some
photographs to the Prince--I had nothing else to give him--one of our
Queen, one of the Prince of Wales, and two or three more that I had.
He was pleased, as he is fond of pictures, and he was particularly
interested in the portraits of the Queen and Prince of Wales.

The next day was Friday, the Sabbath, and the Prince sent me an
invitation to lunch with him in the Palace Gardens. His Highness, the
Amîr, was away out on the plains shooting, and there was no garden
attached to the Prince’s house. Two soldiers came to escort me--not
with fixed bayonets, for I was not a prisoner, at any rate, not
nominally, though perhaps actually; for the position was, with all its
interest, not very far removed from honourable confinement.

The sun shone brilliantly, and we sat under the almond trees. The
Prince, in native costume, sat on a sort of divan with carpet and
cushions. I had a chair and table. The tutor and others were there,
and the guards were posted around under the trees. I smoked cigarettes
and talked. It was very pleasant, surrounded as we were by flowers and
grass, and there were so many trees that we seemed almost in the heart
of a wood. I actually saw the Prince laugh!--for the first time. He was
a dignified and polished little man, and has, the Amîr says--with one
other son--the “Royal manner.”

At one o’clock lunch was brought.

Afterwards the Prince asked if I would accompany him to the Chahar
Bagh, to see the sports again. I said I should enjoy doing so, and he
went away with his tutor to be attired in “purple and fine linen,” or
in other words, in European military dress. They were some time gone,
and I wandered about under the trees by myself.

When the Prince returned we started. Being the Sabbath there were a
greater number of spectators than on the previous occasions. So much
time was taken up in finding suitable Mazarîs to oppose the muscular
Turkomans, that there was no opportunity for the Kabuli wrestlers
to come into the ring. Otherwise the dancing and wrestling were a
repetition of the former days.

[Sidenote: The Mother of Prince Hafiz Ullah.]

When we got home the Prince sent me some oranges, and a Russian knife,
fork, and spoon, in a case, and a Turkestan cap embroidered with
gold, worked by his mother. This lady, a wife of His Highness’s, is
from Kaffristan. She is said to be one of the most beautiful women in
the country, and is called, on account of her perfect pink and white
complexion, “The Pomegranate Flower.”

I made a careful pencil drawing of the Prince one day. He is a
fair-haired little fellow, with good features and dark eyes. It was a
pretty picture, and I heard that His Highness was very pleased. The
Sultana, they said, was not so well pleased: the Prince is not her son.

About this time, it was in April, I had some trouble with one of the
Generals, a fat man--not that I object to fat men unless they interfere
with me--with a voice like that of a full-grown bull. This fat man
attempted to bully me.

I reached the Hospital that morning at ten a.m., having seen thirty or
forty patients at my own place first. General M---- A---- Khan, who was
visiting the Hospital, enquired why I did not come earlier. I politely
explained that I was seeing patients at my own house. He said I ought
to come to the Hospital first, and attend to the others afterwards.
I was surprised and somewhat annoyed, and looking him in the face, I

“Chira?” “Why?” He let the matter drop.

We then went into the different wards, or rooms, where the patients
were, and he said that such and such men had been in the Hospital for
so long, why did I not cure them and send them out. I said--

“Because their disease does not admit of cure,” and added, through the
Interpreter, “Tell him he can take that, and that, and that man away,
if he likes.”

I had no intention of being cruel to the men; speaking in English it
did not strike me they would understand, though of course they did when
it was interpreted. They seemed to give up hope at once. One shut his
eyes and died the same day, another the next. I could, at first, hardly
believe the report when I heard it: then I cursed that fat man.

When we had gone the round of the patients we came out into the garden.
There he stood, this man, surrounded by his staff, and he commenced to
take me to task. He said I was to give the patients _good_ medicine
and see that I cured them--one had Bright’s disease, another advanced
Phthisis, and so on! and was continuing his tirade, when it struck me
quite suddenly--for I am a mild man--that I was being ill-treated. At
once I thirsted for his blood with a dreadful thirst--the effect of the
climate probably--and I desired greatly to assault him with fire arms
or with steel. Fortunately, I had neither at hand, or the situation
might have become complicated. The Persian I had learnt went back on
me, as it were, and I had to speak English.

[Sidenote: The Power of the Amîr’s Name.]

“Does this son of a pig, whose ancestors were pigs for many
generations; this iniquitous mass of vileness, with much body and
little brain, does he----;” but this was enough for the Armenian, he
guessed at the rest, and he turned on the General.

In vituperation--for volume of sound and rapidity of words--I never met
the Armenian’s equal. I have heard talk of the ladies of Billingsgate,
and I should like to put one in the ring with the Armenian.

It grew alarming. I thought so, and so did the General. He backed and
looked exceedingly uncomfortable. He tried feebly to stem the torrent:
he might as well have tried to stop the Kabul river when swollen by the
melting snows. Then he essayed the playful, he smiled an apologetic
smile and offered me a rose: and still the Armenian foamed:--The
whole matter should come before Amîr Sahib, he was the only master in
Afghanistan; if he had a complaint let him bring it then, and so on.
Many times the General tried to speak, to explain, to remonstrate, but
straight ahead went the Armenian, never pausing one moment. At last the
General thought he had better go, and he went.

He had not escaped yet: a letter from the Armenian followed him. In
it he was solemnly warned never to attempt that sort of thing again
(he never did), that a European will not bear it, and that this
particular European would proceed at once, on the slightest attempt at
a repetition of the offence, to “very much kick and blow.”

At the next Durbar the General happened to be standing not very far
from my chair, and the Armenian said to him--

“The English doctor wishes to speak to Amîr Sahib about that little
affair at the Hospital.”

The General said, “For God sake don’t let him. I am not his master; I
am his slave, his dog, his anything!”

So the matter ended.

While the Amîr was out shooting on the plains, one of the Page boys
was thrown from his horse and the inner end of his collar-bone was
dislocated upwards. His Highness on seeing the displacement said there
was no need to send for the English doctor.

“Bandages,” he said, “are useless. Leave it alone.” He was quite right.

On April the 22nd, began the Mahomedan fast, “Ramazàn.” They fast for a
month, neither eating, drinking, nor smoking during the day. Directly
the twilight commences, however, that is when they can just no longer
distinguish a white from a black thread, they commence, and go on
pretty much all night.

Fortunately, the year had been very cool; cloudy, windy, and rainy, so
that there was much less sickness than usual in the month. Generally
both during and after Ramazàn there is a great prevalence of fever
and bowel complaints. The first thing an Afghan does, when he breaks
his fast in the evening, is to light the chillim and fill his lungs
with tobacco smoke. It is a tremendously big dose, and often produces
serious consequences, such as giddiness, vomiting, and insensibility.
During the fast they brought a man to me one evening on a charpoy. He
was a great big fellow, and they said he was insensible from smoking.
He was dead. The dose of tobacco he had taken had been too much for
his heart. As soon as I said he was dead, the brother and the other
soldiers who had brought him were greatly upset. They wailed and wept

[Sidenote: The Evening Durbar.]

The first Durbar I went to after His Highness’s return from his
shooting expedition on the plains was during the month of Ramazàn. The
Durbar was, of necessity, held in the evening, at seven o’clock, and,
the weather being fine, it was held outside the Palace, in the gardens.

For some reason or other His Highness, I could tell, was pleased
with me. For instance, in addressing me, he used a familiar form of
expression, such as one uses to a friend. He said, it was quite a long
time since he had seen me. He enquired if the Hindustani assistants
were working well, and congratulated himself that the year was cool and
healthy compared with the last. He said he himself did not fast during
Ramazàn: that there were duties a King owed to his people, for when a
man fasts he has not that control over himself and his temper that a
King, with life and death in his hands, should have. He said, “Ramazàn”
should be called “Marazàn.”--“Maraz” meaning “disease.”

Then the Armenian brought forward two or three people on whom I had
had to operate for “stone,” and exhibited them with much pride. His
Highness was pleased, and gave presents to the patients. One, I
remember, received a horse and a hundred rupees.

The Durbar was one of the most striking and picturesque sights I have
seen. The background was formed by the deep shadows of the trees:
under a brilliantly coloured awning, lit up by a multitude of lamps,
sat some two hundred officers, in every kind of uniform, resplendent
with gold embroidery; and at intervals, around the awning and Palace,
stood an Afghan soldier in native costume, holding a blazing torch in
one hand and an oil flask in the other, and the gleam from the torches
on the billowy masses of leaf gave those soft touches of light in the
background which prevent it being heavy.

We had dinner somewhat early, as the men had been fasting all day. When
we got home the Armenian gave an explanation as to why the Amîr was so
particularly charming. It was this:--During the shooting expedition,
a great deal of wild pig had been killed, and the chief Cook sent a
messenger to enquire whether I would have roast pork for dinner. I was
highly indignant, thinking, that as the pig is unclean, an insult was
intended. I ordered the messenger to be thrashed--he was the bearer
of evil tidings--and threatened direful things if such a message were
repeated. The Sultana then sent for the Armenian and enquired if I
would not like a young pig or two, and whether it were not a fact that
Christians ate pig.

The Armenian said that Christians were indeed allowed by their
religion to do so; but that neither Christian Priests nor Christian
Doctors ever suffered anything unclean to pass their lips!!

[Sidenote: The Attempted Vendetta: the Result.]

The same evening a man was brought on a charpoy suffering great pain
from a “strangulated hernia.” To save his life it was necessary to
operate that night. He was moved to the Hospital, where all the
instruments were, and I did the operation by the light of two or three
tallow candles. The next morning the brother of the patient was lying
in wait for me at the Hospital with several large knives, seeking to
slay me. He said I had killed his brother!

“On the contrary,” I explained, “I have saved his life.”

Then the Armenian came forward in all his strength.

“Harem Zada!” he shouted, “thou base-born scoundrel, thy _Father_ could
not speak in the Sahib’s presence!” and he laid his stick across the
man’s shoulders with such vigour and energy that presently he broke
it. He then flung the pieces at him and told him to “get”--“Birau” in
Persian. He “got” accordingly.

Coming back from the Hospital we met an old lady walking. She was well
dressed but wore no veil. I knew her very well to speak to, but who she
was I didn’t quite know. I had heard that she was nurse to the Amîr
when he was a child. She seemed equally at home in the Harem and in the
Durbar. The Armenian related the incident at the Hospital, and she was
suitably indignant and sympathetic. Perhaps she did not treat me with
that profound respect one would think was the due of a distinguished
Foreigner, for she called me “Buchcha,” “Youngster”!!! I overlooked
it; for the opportunity of speaking to a lady was rare, and I enjoyed
it in direct proportion to its rarity.

The next Durbar evening during Ramazàn was cold and showery. His
Highness sat at the window of the Palace. I was invited inside. The
scent was sweet from great clusters of roses arranged in vases. After
dinner (we had two kinds of ice pudding, among other things) an Usbàk
was ushered in, bringing a design he had drawn on paper for a wall
decoration--flowers and leaves treated conventionally.

His Highness examined the design and said it was not bad and it was not
good. This just about expressed my own opinion. The drawing was good
but the colours were gaudy and clashed with one another. His Highness
said he had some work of that kind done by a Kabuli which he would show
me, and he sent for it.

It was an illuminated Manuscript book, and the cover inside and out was
painted with flowers and birds treated decoratively. It was beautiful.
The drawing was excellent; the colouring was quite harmonious, and the
balance of each design was, to my eye, perfect. I said I had never
seen anything of the kind better. The book itself, I was told, was His
Highness’s diary.

During the evening some presents were laid at His Highness’s feet.
Among them were two huge loaves of white sugar, about 20 lbs. each.
These he directed to be given to me. Knowing something about the
meaning of the custom, I was very pleased.

Before we left, His Highness said that shortly after the termination of
Ramazàn we should leave Mazar for Kabul.

His Highness had promised me leave of absence for some months after his
arrival in Kabul, and when I got home that night I grew enthusiastic
in my description to the Armenian of the wonders and sights of London.
After talking some time, I said I had seen a man seize the back of a
chair with his teeth, hold it out straight, and put another on the top
of it. The Armenian was not to be outdone. He said he had seen a man
take a charpoy--a bedstead--balance it on one leg on the tip of his
tongue, and then dance! He also described to me a curious European
sweetmeat that he had met with in his travels.

“I saw him in Lahore,” he said. “Like this you catch him, tear him up,
and he is call ‘Bang’!”

I concluded that he wished to describe the ordinary Christmas cracker.

[Sidenote: End of Ramazàn.]

On the evening of May 20th the fast of Ramazàn was over, and a certain
number of guns were fired. The next day was a Festival. It was
intensely hot, and His Highness held a Reception in the Palace Gardens.
Wishing to lay a present before him, for those I ordered from London
had not arrived, I painted a portrait of myself, which His Highness
was pleased to accept. He sent me some apricots from his own plate by
Malek, the favourite Page boy.

In the course of the morning the infant Prince, Mahomed Omer, was
brought to the Reception. His Page boys, of whom there were a dozen
or more, were dressed in _Scotch_ dress with kilts and white solar
helmets. Everyone stood as the little Prince was carried up to the
Amîr. This caught my attention at the time, for it was not usual for
all to stand when the other two little Princes entered.

When I left I went on to the gardens of the Harem Serai to pay a
complimentary visit to the Sultana. Here a tray full of sweetmeats and
sugar was laid at my feet, and the Armenian took care it should be
conveyed to my house and promptly devoured.

A day or two after the termination of the Fast, I saw my neighbour
opposite, the Mirza Abdur Rashid, superintending the packing of some of
His Highness’s valuables--diamonds, shawls, and furs, for transport to
Kabul. Accordingly, I gave orders at the Hospital to pack up certain of
the drugs and instruments; those that I needed. Some were left for the
use of the Hindustani who was to remain behind and attend to the sick
of the regiments which were to garrison Mazar.

The Armenian then set to work to pack all my household belongings,
including the carpets; and he obtained from His Highness the necessary
orders for pack-horses, both for my baggage and the Hospital stores.

On the 24th of May I heard cannon firing; on that day the troops
marched out of Mazar to camp on the plains, on the first stage to
Kabul. I endeavoured to ride to the Hospital to attend the sick, but
every road was so crowded with loaded camels, pack-horses, and mules,
that there was no way of getting there, and I had to return. The same
day the Amîr sent me a beautiful little bay horse to share with the
“Steam-engine” pony the labour of carrying me to Kabul.

[Sidenote: The Guard of Amazons.]

A fortnight after the troops had marched out on to the plains, the
Sultana with the other ladies of the Harem left Mazar. They started
soon after daybreak. Their guard consisted not only of a body of
the Amîr’s soldiers, but of a regiment of mounted Amazons, some two
hundred, the female slaves and servants of the Harem. These rode on
men’s saddles, were veiled, and wore on the head, over the veil, solar
helmets, or felt hats. Each was armed with a sabre and a carbine. A
syce, or groom, was told off to look after each three horses.

Two days afterwards His Highness and the Court, including myself,
started on the journey. We saw little or nothing of the Harem and
guard, for they kept two days’ march ahead of the main body during the
whole journey.




    Loading up: the start. The first camp. Tropical heat: the
    whirlwind. The Amîr’s khirgar. Scanty rations. Midnight marching.
    The numbers on the march. Dangers in the pitchy darkness. Fever.
    Stopped on the road. The hut: impure water: sleep by the road
    side. The scream. Daybreak. The second camp. Lost on the plains.
    Naibabad: the rain. The march to Tash Kurghan. A sketch of
    the Khulm Pass. Sight seeing from the house tops. The Durbar.
    Punishment of the unjust townsfolk. The Amîr’s health. The eclipse
    of the sun. On the march again: the dust: jammed in the valleys.
    Ghuzniguk. An Afghan “Good Samaritan.” A poisonous sting: the
    Amîr’s remedy. A block on the road: dangers of by-paths in mountain
    and valley. The tiger valley. A drink of milk. The dust. Haibuk.
    Adventure with the elephant: the somnolent Afghan. The aqueduct.
    Discomforts of a camp in an orchard.

It was June 13th when we started. The Armenian and I were up before
daybreak superintending the loading up of the medical stores and my
own baggage. We hoped to get well on the march before the heat of the
day commenced, but the men, from want of practice, were so slow and
clumsy in loading the pack-horses, that our start was delayed till nine
o’clock. It was then getting very hot.

[Sidenote: Tropical Heat: the Whirlwind.]

The first march was short, and soon after midday we reached the camping
ground on the plains, some few miles out of Mazar. I had thought my
first ride over these plains when I came to Mazar was a hot one; that
was in May--this was in June!

I dismounted and stood in the sun while some of the servants commenced
unloading the horses, and others attempted to put up my tent. They
were Asiatics, in their native climate: I was a Londoner, and I raised
my sun helmet every minute or two, hoping to catch a little breeze on
my head, but there was not the slightest breath. After standing some
time, I began to wonder, in an abstract way, which would give out
first--the heart or the nervous system--that is to say, whether it
would be a faint or a sun-stroke. The Armenian, seeing my distress,
brought me the portable iron chair that the fat Hakim had ruined, but
I found one might as well seek rest on the bars of the kitchen grate
when a dinner is in process of preparation. I therefore stood up

“When, oh, when, will they get my tent up?” I asked of my secret soul.
Receiving no answer, I begged the Armenian to hurry the men, calling
his attention to the fact that I was a European, “very soft man likes
flower, and heat is hurt it.” At last the tent was up, and thankfully I
staggered into its welcome shade.

“Great Scott!” I gasped, “carry me out.” For the tent, put up on the
red-hot plain at midday, felt like a baker’s oven on Good Friday eve. I
have never been in a baker’s oven on Good Friday eve, but I know what
it is like.

They did not carry me out, but the Armenian brought me a charpoy, also
burning hot. I lay quite still on it, simmered gently, and waited for

At last, it must have been after several years, I fancy, a wind came:
it was a scorching one; there was no “healing in its breath,” and
I dried up still more. Then a whirlwind and a pillar of dust came
sweeping across the camp, tearing out the tent-pegs and overturning
the tents in its course. This roused me, and I crawled to the door
of the tent to see if the Amîr’s wigwam had escaped. His Highness
was not in a tent, but in a khirgar that had been prepared some days
before. It was interlaced with shrubs; and water had been brought, with
considerable trouble, in a trench or stream from Mazar. Men outside the
khirgar were constantly throwing up the water with wooden shovels on to
the leafy covering. The khirgar had escaped the whirlwind.

The Armenian went off to try and get me something to drink or eat,
for we had had no breakfast. All that the chief of the Commissariat
Department could give him was a small piece of bread. He begged us
not to inform His Highness, and promised that everything should be in
readiness the next day. After a search, the Armenian discovered that
my rascally cook had concealed some mutton in a dirty cloth: this he
brought me, with some brown-looking snow water, and a little whiskey
from the medical stores. I ate, drank, and was thankful.

At four in the afternoon a piece of ice arrived--the ice is saved from
the winter in ice pits--and half an hour afterwards the Amîr sent me
some ice pudding, which I devoured rapidly before it all became water.
At five came dinner, but then I was at one mind with the Armenian: he
said, “My wish is not I eat: very much drink I take it.”

At seven in the evening the troops marched off again, for the Amîr had
decided to travel at midnight to escape the heat. There were a great
many of us: the Court, the Harem, the army, and the baggage of us all.
For some time before, notice had been given to the towns and villages
on the route to lay in stores of grain and firewood, and to gather in
their flocks from the mountains. There were of us about eight thousand
men, ten thousand horses, three thousand camels, and three or four

[Sidenote: Midnight Marching: Stopped on the Road.]

When the troops had gone my men commenced loading up the pack-horses
again. They took three hours over it, and many of the packs fastened up
in the dark slipped and fell after we started: this necessitated a halt
each time to reload. I was not in a cheerful state, either of mind or
body, for the heat had been too much for me. I had fever rather badly,
and was aching in every bone.

It was pitch dark; I could not see my horse’s head nor my own hand
held up. Before we got out of the camp on to the road I heard a
pack-horse that had broken loose tearing about like a mad thing. We
could tell where he was by the clattering of his chain. Once, in the
darkness, he rushed close by me. I was convinced he would charge into
some one, probably me, because no one could set my leg when it was
broken. However, we got on to the road at last: we could tell it by the
different ring of the horses’ hoofs.

The baggage slipped and a pack tumbled off so frequently, that at last
I had not patience to wait with the baggage men while they loaded up
again, and the Armenian and I rode on accompanied by a soldier. I had
operated on this man some time before; he therefore politely came two
days’ journey with me.

We had not ridden very far when suddenly out of the darkness came the
challenge in Pushtu,

“Sû-kè?” “Who goes there?”

It was a sentry with orders to allow no one to pass till the Amîr had
gone by!

“When is he going?” I enquired.

“Khuda medanad!” “God knows!” was the answer.

This was cheerful; and I said a great deal in English. There we sat in
the dark: we couldn’t go on, for the man would not let us. The annoying
part was that his General, who had a tent somewhere near, was that very
man who tried to bully me in the Hospital. I said to the Armenian,

“Tell him to report to the fat scoundrel who I am.” The man then
shouted to someone whom we could not see to take the report. After some
minutes, word was brought back that the General was asleep!

“Wake the devil, then!” I shouted, for I was burning and aching with
fever, and we had been waiting already half an hour. They did not dare
to, they said. The sentry communed within himself, and presently said
that, as I had attended him in a severe illness and had given him good
medicine and made him well, he would therefore risk punishment for
my sake and let me pass. He hesitated about letting the Armenian and
soldier go by too, but finally yielded, on its being explained to him
how impossible it was for me to travel alone. I never heard that he was

We rode on again, and on for four hours, and I had to hang on to the
pommel of the saddle. At last, after trying to moisten parched lips
with a dried-up tongue, I said to the Armenian:--

“Look here! You will have to make some different arrangements from
this. I can’t stand it. It is all very well for you fellows: you are as
hard as nails and are used to it. I am not.”

“Sir, I very sorry. What _I_ do.”

“I don’t know. You must do something; or else I must appeal to the

[Sidenote: The Hut: Impure Water.]

I was miserable, and, like a child, struck at the nearest. The Armenian
asked if I would lie down and sleep for an hour, for, as far as he
could judge, we had come only about half-way. A little further on we
saw something darker than the sky, and riding up we made out that it
was a hut, a little way off the road. We could hear a trickle of water,
and by feeling around found a ditch or irrigation channel, or something
of the sort--we couldn’t see what--near the hut. With feverish haste I
dismounted, scooped up three or four cupfuls and gulped it down. “Here
go the microbes,” I thought. I drank knowingly; who would not? burning
with fever, in a tropical heat: but that drink nearly cost me my life.
However, the “microbes” lay low for a few days. The Armenian then went
off to the hut and hammered at the door. After some time he roused the
inmates, and we heard them moving and speaking. Presently the door
opened, and a Turkoman, with a lamp in his hand, appeared.

The Armenian told him to light a fire at once and make some tea, as
there was a Sirdar of the Court outside with fever. Very soon the tea
was brought, and I drank several cupfuls of the hot liquid. Then I took
off my spurs and helmet, and lying on the ground by the stream, put my
revolver wrapped in a cloak under my head, went off into a heavy sleep.

By-and-bye I heard a cock crow, and dimly saw that the moon had risen.
Later on, I was dreamily conscious of a trampling, and trampling, and
an incessant neighing. I remember thinking how wearisome it was, that
incessant neighing.

Suddenly there was a terrific scream, and I was broad awake in a
moment. I found, in the dim light of dawn, that several other people
had stopped where we had, and were sleeping. Two of their horses had
got loose from their tether ropes, and were reared upright striking at
one another.

The Armenian and I were close under them, and he was still sound asleep.

I woke him, and we sprang up. A little way off was the soldier holding
our horses. We mounted, while the others tried to separate the
screaming and fighting stallions by shouting and throwing sticks and
stones at them.

It was four o’clock, and we heard the larks singing overhead. Along the
road an incessant stream of baggage-horses was passing, trampling and
neighing. We had come a great deal more than half-way, for we did not
have far to go before we reached the camp. After half an hour or so my
tent and baggage turned up.

It was Gur-i-Mar where we camped: we had travelled slowly in the
darkness. The Amîr, riding on horseback, arrived with his guard soon
after dawn, but it was hours before the stream of pack-horses and
camels and elephants had come in.

I had breakfast as soon as the tent was up: cold mutton, biscuit, and
tea, and then lay on the ground with a pillow, and went to sleep again.
The fever had disappeared. Towards midday it grew frightfully hot, but
I did not suffer so much, for my tent was put up in the early morning
over cool ground.

In the afternoon the hot winds blew again, and we had a violent dust
storm. We did not have the difficulty in procuring food that we had had
the day before, and I received also a fair supply of ice.

While the hot winds blew, the rim of the glass I drank out of, though
containing iced water, was quite hot to the lips. I slept a good deal
during the day. At one in the morning I was called, and I dressed by
the light of a candle. When I got outside I found the men were loading
up. We started about three a.m. His Highness, I found, had gone on. It
was excessively dark, and the Armenian and I got off the road and lost
our way on the plains. We rode on trusting to our horses, but they were
as much at fault as we. We wandered about, down in hollows and up on
ridges, for the plain here was undulating, like downs. We were in the
neighbourhood of the Abadu Pass--the valley of death.

It seemed to me we were getting too far to the left, so we branched
to the right. Towards dawn it became very windy and dusty. At four
o’clock it became lighter and lighter, and the larks began to sing,
and after some trouble we found our way back to the road. To my great
relief the sky was cloudy, and the morning comparatively cool. I had
tucked a biscuit in the top of my boot, and I munched it with great
satisfaction: the Armenian nearly went to sleep on horseback. We camped
at Naibabad. Soon after the tents were up it began to rain: it was
delicious to hear the water come pattering down.

[Sidenote: The Amîr Lost on the Plains.]

I found we were not the only ones who had lost their way. At dawn the
Amîr himself, with his guard, was found wandering off towards Russia.

That day my demoniacal black pony untied his ropes with his fore foot
and teeth, and walked off. He was not found till late in the afternoon,
when he was brought in looking a miserable wreck.

The fourth day was windy and comparatively cool. We started at five
a.m. His Highness rode in a palanquin at the head of the army, and I
rode level some distance to the right. The mountains lay to the right
of us, the south, for we were nearing Tash Kurghàn: to the north was
the plain, and the dust was frightful. We arrived at Tash Kurghàn at
eight. We went very short stages, for when I had come to Mazar with Jan
Mahomed Khan, we did the journey from Tash Kurghàn to Mazar in the day.

I sat in the tent of one of the Chamberlains, and the Page boys came
and chatted and drank tea with me. They none of them seemed any the
worse for the journey. At eleven o’clock I went to my own tent, which
was erected on a mound outside the town, near the tent of the British
Agent. A good many sick people were brought: some with fever and other
illnesses, another with snake bite. The snake had bitten two men,
the first one died, but the other recovered. There were a good many
surgical cases, too, chiefly from horse kicks: broken legs, internal
injuries, and crushed fingers were the commonest. I turned in at eight

We stayed the whole of the next day at Tash Kurghàn. I was awakened
at six in the morning by the bugles, and after breakfast, finding I
had a good view of the Khulm Pass, I made a careful sketch. One or two
people called upon me, and then, after dressing suitably, I mounted
the little bay horse the Amîr had sent me, and rode off to salaam His

[Sidenote: The Durbar: The Amîr’s Health.]

The town seemed very lively and full, compared with what it did when
I first came through with Jan Mahomed. Gay-coated Courtiers and Page
boys were riding about, and soldiers were marching here and there. The
townspeople sat on their walls and stood on their housetops to see the

His Highness was occupying a large house in the town. He was very
gracious when I made my bow, but did not look at all well.

While I was there, the chief townsmen brought presents to His Highness.
There was a good deal of talking, to which I did not pay much
attention, till I noticed that His Highness became angry. Presently,
the men who had brought presents were taken outside and thrashed
severely. I was somewhat astonished, and possibly looked so, for His
Highness turned to me and explained why he had ordered the men to
be thrashed. A report had reached him, which he found on enquiry to
be true, that these men had extorted gifts from those poorer than
themselves, and had laid them before him as their own.

After lunch I asked His Highness if he were feeling quite well. He said
no: the sudden alteration in his habits, and the heat of the journey,
had upset him. He seemed pleased that I had asked.

I left the Durbar soon after lunch to see a man who had been seriously
injured on the march. He had a broken leg: a frightful smash it was:
compound and comminuted. While I was on the way there, at three p.m., I
noticed an extraordinary darkness or twilight coming over everything.
The horses and other animals seemed frightened, and made curious
noises. I glanced up and found we had a total eclipse of the sun. This
was on June 17th, 1890. Everyone was very alarmed, imagining that the
eclipse betokened some serious calamity, either to the King or the

I was up at four the next morning, for the Armenian wanted my breakfast
over, so that the tent could be packed as soon as possible. I had some
cold meat and bread, which my cook had wrapped in a piece of paper
overnight--this kept it from becoming disagreeably dry. Plates, knives,
and forks were packed, and, in lieu thereof, I used my pocket-knife and
fingers. The baggage was loaded up while I breakfasted: my tent being
left till last.

His Highness started at five, and we an hour afterwards. I had no
adventures this day worth recounting. We were among the mountains
again: winding-paths, ravines and bridges being the predominant
features. There were so many thousands on the march together that
divers discomforts arose. First, the dust was choking, making the eyes
and throat smart. Then “blocks” occurred, and we got jammed in some of
the passes. Under these circumstances the horses at once begin kicking
and fighting, and you have to look out for your shins. I had to stop by
the wayside frequently to bandage up some unfortunate who had become
damaged. I carried bandages and one or two splints with me.

We got into a series of valleys, and in one, which was regularly
cup-shaped, with precipitous mountains around it, we were jammed for
about an hour. It was quite an experience sitting in the dust and heat
among the kicking horses. However, there is an end to most things if
you wait long enough, and we got out of the valley eventually. At ten
a.m. we arrived at the valley of Ghuzniguk, where Ishak fought against
the Amîr’s soldiers. His Highness himself, I heard, was not present at
the battle: his illness prevented him leaving Kabul. Here we camped.

[Sidenote: An Afghan “Good Samaritan.”]

When I rode into the town I saw the tent of my neighbour, the Mirza
Abdur Rashid, already erected, and as my baggage had not yet arrived
I dismounted and entered it. It was empty, and I lay on the carpet to
rest. A soldier, whom I did not recognize, brought me a pillow, some
iced water, and a piece of bread. I thanked him, and when I had eaten
and drank I lay down again: he stood and fanned me, whereat I was
thankful, till finally I fell asleep. I woke by-and-bye and found the
kindly Afghan had departed. I was sitting cross-legged, leaning against
the pillow, with a look of pensive melancholy on, when the Mirza and
some others entered. After shaking hands we sat down again, and the
Mirza said,

“Doctor Sahib bisyar manda shud.” “The Doctor Sahib is very tired.”

I could not admit this before the others, and I broke out into Persian:
“Né manda na shudam--gurisna shudam.” “Nay, I am not tired, I am

In those days I so rarely would attempt to talk Persian that they
laughed; and I had used the colloquial Afghan-Persian _gurisna_ instead
of the correct _gursina_. A tray of cold meat cut up into cubes, and
some bread, was brought, and we helped ourselves with our fingers.

In the afternoon the Armenian sent word that my tent was up, and I
went off there and slept again for a couple of hours. After that the
Armenian suggested my using his tent one day and my own the next, so
that a tent could be sent on beforehand and made ready by the time I
arrived. Dinner came, as usual, from His Highness’s cook, and I turned
in at eight. The Armenian and the servants slept on the ground outside
the tent.

[Sidenote: The Poisonous Sting.]

The next morning, June 19th, I turned out at three, and had breakfast
at four o’clock: it was dawn. Soon after, I was sent for to see a man
who had been stung in the night by something or other. What it was
I couldn’t quite make out, for the Armenian’s knowledge of English
names was limited. He described a creature with many legs attached to
a central body. I suggested a “crab.” He said he thought that might
be it; on consideration I thought it hardly likely: and centipede and
poisonous spider occurred to me. Whatever it were, the patient was in a
state of “collapse.” Perspiration stood on his face, he had a weak slow
pulse, headache, and burning pains in the limbs. I was about to give
medicine and port wine when His Highness came riding by on a trotting
camel, followed by his guard on horseback. Seeing a group around a man
on the ground, and me in the middle of it, he stopped to enquire what
was the matter. They carried the man to him and explained. The Amîr
asked a few questions about the symptoms: whether the man’s eyeballs
ached, and whether he sweated. When he heard that the skin was acting
he turned to me and said:--

“Inshallah, jour méshowad.” “If God will, he will become well.”

He told me he had a native medicine, an excellent remedy for poisonous
stings: this he was about to administer: if it were not effectual he
would wish me to give European medicine. He gave an order in Persian
to one of the attendants, who presently brought him a little inlaid
box. His Highness unbuttoned his coat and took a small key which was
hanging by a chain round his neck. He opened the box and took out a
little egg-shaped casket of gold, and from that a stone. He directed a
little of the stone to be scraped off, mixed with water, and laid on
the wound. This stone, I was informed, was from the gall bladder of an
antelope. Then he rode on, and by-and-bye I followed. The man was to
stop at Ghuzniguk that day and be brought on in the evening. I left two
or three doses of medicine and some wine, in case they were needed.

That day’s march was pleasant: being among fields of clover and corn,
it was refreshing to the eye, and there was very little dust. We camped
at eight a.m. There was a cool breeze blowing all day, and I lay in my
tent reading Shakespeare and drinking iced-water. The night was cool,
and to me it felt almost cold. At midnight, I was called up to see
the man who had been stung: they had brought him on. He was certainly
better, but had retention, and I passed an instrument. The men looking
after him had thought they would be on the safe side, and they gave
him all the medicine and wine I had left, in addition to applying His
Highness’s remedy.

I went to bed again for two or three hours, and then got up and had
breakfast. We started at five. Hitherto, I had been riding the black
pony, “Steam-engine,” but this day, as I heard the road was good, and
through valleys, I rode the young bay horse His Highness had given me.
I found the road was not all valley.

[Sidenote: Dangers of By-paths.]

We reached a ravine where the road branched into two. One branch ran to
the left of the ravine, the other wound up the face of the mountain to
the right. When the Armenian and I arrived at the division, we found
there was a block on the left road, and, therefore, took the one on the
right. We had got some distance up when a block occurred here also.
The Armenian, who was leading, at once took a little by-path which ran
along the edge, a little below the main road, and I followed. I did not
like it. Looking directly down I could see the bottom of the ravine,
and on the other side, down below, I could see the other road crowded
with cavalry and baggage-horses, indiscriminately mixed. Imagine
yourself riding along the sill of your bedroom window on a young
untried horse, and you will get an idea of what I am trying to explain.
The path was barely three feet wide. The situation in itself was
unpleasant, and I did not know how my horse would behave in mountain
climbing. Some young horses are frightened, and instead of keeping
their attention fixed on what is before them, they look about--mine
did, and neighed when he saw the horses below--slip, become frightened,
plunge and slip more: then--various complications arise.


Suddenly, I saw the Armenian pause a second--he was riding a steady
old mountain pony--glance up to the road above and put his horse
straight up the slope. There was a scramble, a scatter of sparks,
as the hoofs struck the rock, and he was up on the road. I saw why,
when he was gone, and my turn came. The path ended: rounding off into
nothing. There was no room to turn back, nor to dismount; I could not
stay where I was, and I put him at rocky slope. The horse looked up: a
little touch of the spur, and I grasped his mane with both hands: he
reared straight up, gave a spring from his hind legs, and in a moment
was on the slope. I lived a long time in the next few seconds, for it
flashed into me that, if we ever got up, the crush on the road above
would leave no room for us, and we must inevitably slip back. But,
no! he scrambled like a cat, and darting into a gap in the stream of
baggage-horses, we were safe on the path. I hoped I didn’t look very
sickly: I felt so. Presently, we were able to escape from the stream of
traffic by riding along a narrow ridge, then we descended a horribly
steep slope. This, however, was earthy and stony, not bare rock, and it
afforded a firmer foothold: the bay went down sideways, like a crab.
In the place where we scrambled up, the rock was rough and somewhat
irregular. If it had been smooth, this probably would never have been

Then we got on to a wide road in a valley; presently there was another
block, and the Armenian turned off the road to the right. I shouted

“Look here! I am not going along any more of your infernal paths.
I would rather sit in a block for an hour: we are not in such a
tremendous hurry.”

He called back, “Sir! he is all right here.”

The ground was broken-up by huge cracks, seven or eight yards wide!
A man rode out from the crush and looked, then turned his horse back
and re-entered the crowded road. Away across the broken-up plain we
could see a road running along the foot of a mountain. It was not very
crowded, and, after all, we were not on a mountain with only bare rock
under foot, so we went for it. Scrambling down the cracks or miniature
ravines, some fourteen or fifteen feet deep, we waded, or rather rode,
through pools of water, and scrambled up the other side. I don’t know
how many we climbed into and out of--but a good many. The Armenian’s
horse, though a good mountain-climber, was afraid of water, and he
refused and shied, but had to go. When he was plunging the Armenian’s
turban tumbled off into a pool, but he fished it out and clapped it on
his head again, wet, and cursed his horse in Persian.

At last we got on to the road at the foot of the mountain, and went
some distance; but it became excessively stony and rough.

The Armenian said, “He is become worse, you go further.”

We, therefore, branched off to the left from the road, and found
ourselves in a marshy valley. In the mountains, on the left, I saw the
openings of several caves, and there were waterfalls tumbling down the
rocks. This valley was infested with tigers, but there were too many
people about, and too much noise for that to be a danger.

[Sidenote: A Cheap Drink.]

Then we got among cornfields again. Where all the other roads led to I
don’t know, but we found a great many people riding along here, though
we were not badly crowded. I came alongside of the Page boy who used
to live next door to me in Mazar, but we lost him again in the crowd.
We went on and on through villages, where trees and vegetables were
growing--a refreshing sight after a life in Mazar. Further on, the
roads apparently converged, for the lanes became more and more crowded
and more and more dusty, till I was compelled to tie a handkerchief
over my nose and mouth. In one valley seeing a few cows and goats
feeding near some huts, we branched off to try and get a drink: the
peasants brought some milk in a wooden vessel which the Armenian poured
into my cup and handed to me. He preferred drinking whey, of which the
peasants had a plentiful supply, for it is a popular drink, but advised
me not to drink any as it is apt to disagree. We had as much milk and
whey as we wanted for two pice, that is a little more than a farthing.

Finally, we neared the suburbs of the town of Haibuk. The crush became
greater and the dust awful. Everyone’s hair, beard, eyebrows, and
eyelashes were white. Those who had started as youths in the morning
looked grey-haired men, and were hardly recognizable.

The people of the town turned out, and regardless of the dust and the
heat of the sun--they were used to it, I suppose--sat on their garden
walls to look at us.

I had another scare: it was in the town. As we were going along we
saw an elephant in front of us. Horses are generally frightened at
elephants, but mine went quietly enough, so long as the elephant was
going away from him, and he could see him; but just before we reached
the river we passed him. The river is not very wide, perhaps fifteen
feet, but it has very steep rocky banks. There was a narrow bridge
across, and the Armenian being ahead of me, leading the way, got
across at once. Before I reached the bank, a man sitting between the
packs of a baggage-horse, got on the bridge and went slowly. My horse
having the elephant behind him plunged furiously, and as the elephant
advanced, kept shying round, sidling nearer and nearer to the edge of
the bank. I could not get on to the bridge, because the fool on his
pack-horse blocked it. The Armenian and others, seeing the danger I was
in, shouted at the man; he did not hurry: I doubt if he understood.
When we had got to the very edge of the bank--only just in time, the
bridge was clear, and my horse darted across. The bridge was a narrow
affair, about four feet wide, made of trunks of trees and cross-bars,
with earth levelled on the top. I could not take my horse on till it
was clear, for I knew he would charge the pack-horse, and the _best_
I could hope for then would be a leg broken against one of the mule
trunks. I am a mild man, as I said before, but if I had happened to
have had a hunting crop in my hand, I would have woke up that somnolent
Afghan. The whole business did not occupy a minute, not half a minute;
but when a horse is frightened, I need scarcely say he does not look
where he is going.

Riding through the town we came to an embankment covered with grass,
an aqueduct, along the top of which ran a stream of very clear water.
I dismounted, and sat under the shade of the trees by the stream and
washed the dust off my head and hands. It was delightfully cool and
breezy, and there was an excellent view of the fort, a part of the
town, the mountains, and the river down below.

[Sidenote: Camp in an Orchard.]

The Armenian went on with the servants to find the place where the
“Quartermaster” had given orders for my tent to be pitched. As I sat
alone by the stream several people, whom I knew, went by and saluted.
After about an hour, one of the servants came back to conduct me to
the tent. We descended the embankment, and rode down a lane leading to
the river. My tent was in an orchard on the other side. The river was
rather wide but shallow, and we forded it on our horses. We got into
the orchard by scrambling through a gap in the wall.

I found there were other tents besides mine in the orchard, and some
horses were endeavouring to graze. The Armenian ordered the horses out
and the other tents to be moved further away.

My tent was put up on a mound about six feet high, and I went in and
sat on the carpet. It was stifling after the breezy hill. The trees
and high walls of the orchard kept off the breeze without sheltering
my tent from the sun. There was no view, except of dusty leaves and
brown earth--the grass was withered. I was tired, thirsty, and hungry;
there was nothing to drink or eat, and I had no tobacco. I growled at
everybody who came within reach; and the ants crawled down my neck and
up my sleeve, and black grasshoppers jumped in my face and walked up
my back. As soon as the cook arrived, which was some time afterwards,
he hurried off to the bazaar. He came back in about half an hour with
two teapots full of tea: I gulped down ten or eleven cupfuls, and then
made an enjoyable meal off some cold mutton that the cook fished out of
the baggage; after that I unearthed a cigar from one of the trunks, and
felt more at peace with the world; for the crawling creatures did not
sting, though they were disagreeable.

These are the ordinary everyday incidents of a march. As a rule
one does not find the opportunity to write them down, and they are
forgotten the next day. I, however, happened to write a letter home
that evening and I have just copied it.

There was no meat to be obtained in the bazaar, and I gave the Armenian
four shillings to buy a sheep; for although my meals came from His
Highness’s kitchen, those of the servants and the Armenian did not.




    The Durbar in Haibuk. “Rustom’s throne.” The ancient caves. The
    wounded Governor: Kabul dentistry. The Amîr and the sketches:
    His Highness’ joke. Another Durbar: the Amîr’s prescription. The
    erring Hakim. Courtesy of His Highness. “Microbes.” Illness.
    Elephant riding. A grateful peasant. Dangerous passes. The Durbar
    at Shush-Bûrjah: the hot river. Accidents on the “Tooth-Breaker.”
    Akrab-Abad. The quarrel of the cooks: the result. The camp of the
    camels. A pet dog. Pushed over the edge. Evil results of “temper.”
    Kindness of Amîr. A cheap banquet. Coal. Arrival of Englishmen.
    Durbar at Kalai Kasi. The Amîr again as a physician. Approach to
    Kabul. Reception by the Princes. The “High garden.” The Pavilion.
    Malek the Page. Arrival of the Amîr: greeting of the Princes. The
    Reception. Arrival at the Workshops. Hospitality.

We remained in Haibuk for nearly a fortnight, the army being camped
on the mountain. I sat all day in the stifling tent drinking iced
water and reading Shakespeare. At intervals during the day, sick and
injured people were brought and I attended to them. But those wretched
“microbes” that I had swallowed in my fever on the plains began to work
their wicked will on me, and I became ill.

[Sidenote: Durbar in Haibuk.]

Four days after we arrived His Highness held a Durbar. After I had seen
my patients I mounted the bay and rode through the town to where His
Highness was sitting. This was in a rather large garden attached to a
house. There were some big trees and a good many flowers in the garden.
Among the latter, I remember noticing the “Fleur de Lys,” or French
lily. A pond or tank, supplied by an irrigation channel, was in the
garden, and near it sat His Highness on a couch covered with silk and
cloth of gold. The couch was shaded by a large red and white awning.
The Courtiers and Pages stood near, and all around were cornfields. I
had taken with me a catalogue of revolvers from a London firm (Colt’s)
that His Highness had asked me, with the help of the Armenian, to
translate. When he had examined the translation he spoke of the city of
Haibuk, and explained how he intended to fortify it, and how the water
supply would be ensured. He told me there was a remarkable ancient
monument near Haibuk, and some ancient caves of considerable interest.
He advised my riding out to see them, as they were not very far from
the town. Lunch was brought, and afterwards His Highness gave me a
plateful of nectarines as big as peaches.

I rode out the next day with the Armenian and some others, to see the
ancient monument.

[Sidenote: Rustom’s Throne.]

I found that a small rocky hill, or spur, at the foot of the mountains,
had been rounded at the apex into a cupola: the rock all around it
being cut away as a sort of trench, or moat, some twenty feet deep
and eight or nine feet across. On the top of the rounded cupola was,
apparently, a tiny temple, flat-topped, with a doorway on one side
flanked by pillars, which, to the best of my recollection, were Greek
in style. We got across the trench, or moat, and were able to examine
the structure on the top. Apparently, it was cut out of the rock. The
doorway was cut inwards for about two feet, and ended in flat rock.
Writing from recollection--it was in 1890 I saw it--I should say the
“temple” was about seven feet high and five or six feet square at the
base. The rounded cupola was, perhaps, thirty feet across. This they
told me was called “Rustom’s Throne.”

We then went to see the caves, which were near. They opened on the face
of the mountain. The largest--used then as a storehouse for grain--had
an entrance level with the ground, and a larger opening some twenty
feet higher up. It was, therefore, perfectly light inside. The roof
was domed and ornamented in the middle with a huge sunflower, treated
decoratively. The same style of decoration was repeated on the walls.
The other caves were smaller and dark.

I made sketches of the caves, and of Rustom’s Throne.

The next morning His Highness sent for me to see the Governor of
Haibuk, who had been wounded some time before by a bullet through
the roof of his mouth and upper jaw. After the removal of pieces of
necrosed bone, I suggested that a gold plate should be fitted into the
roof of the mouth. His Highness said there was a man in Kabul who had
been taught by an English dentist, Mr. O’Meara, how to take the model
of the mouth in wax: he could make a suitable plate, and, if necessary,
fix on artificial teeth. I was about to retire then, but His Highness
invited me to stay and drink tea, and a chair was placed for me near
him. He said he should much like to see my sketch-book, as he had heard
I had made a drawing of Rustom’s Throne. The Armenian at once galloped
off to my tent to fetch it. His Highness was much amused at some of
the sketches, particularly of one of the Armenian where he lay on the
ground in front of the fire--I had drawn it one evening in Mazar. He
said he looked as though he were--to put it mildly--suffering from
alcoholic intoxication.

As the Armenian was a Christian, and therefore not forbidden to drink
alcohol, this mild joke amused everybody except the Armenian, and the
more ashamed and angry he looked, the more they laughed. Of the other
sketches His Highness recognized whom they were meant for: but those
of Rustom’s Throne, the caves, and the sketch of the Khulm Pass, His
Highness admired so exceedingly, that I had to cut them out of the book
at once and give them to him. That is the reason I have to describe
Rustom’s Throne from memory.

His Highness then showed me a block of very beautiful clear ice, which
he said had been obtained from a cavern near Haibuk. He asked me to
take the block away and test its purity.

There was another Durbar on July 1st, and by this time the “microbes”
had got firm hold of me. I went to the Durbar. His Highness had heard
that I was ill, and I told him I had not with me the medicine I wished
to take. His Highness asked, Would I take native medicine if he
prescribed it? I said I should be most grateful to His Highness if he
would honour me so far. His Highness gave some directions to a Hakim,
who presently brought a small jar. The Amîr told me it contained a
medicine he was himself taking. With a little silver spoon he took some
dark-looking confection out of the jar, made a bolus of it, and gave
it to me. It tasted hot and very nice. There was no more in the pot,
and he sent the Hakim away to make some fresh. It was then that my mind
became troubled within me, for I knew the Hakim loved me not.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Courtesy.]

Presently the jar was brought back, and as they were about to give
it me, His Highness asked for it. He scooped a little out with the
spoon, and was raising it to his lips, when the Hakim stopped him and
whispered in his ear. The Amîr turned and looked at him, and the Hakim
hurried away with a very red face. By-and-bye he returned with the jar.
Again the Amîr took it, and, looking at me, he raised a spoonful to
his lips and swallowed it. He then gave the jar into the hands of the
Armenian, who immediately brought it to me.

One need not live in the East to understand the courtesy and kindness
of the Amîr’s action; but to appreciate fully the honour he did me, one
must be conversant with Oriental customs. To taste a medicine before
handing it to the patient is the duty of an Oriental physician when
he is attending the King. I was a servant--but also a stranger and a
guest--and the Amîr treated me as though I had been a Prince.

I cannot say whether the medicine would have cured me or not, for in
two days’ time we had to be on the march again: which was bad for me.

Then came a time, the details of which I do not care to recall too
vividly to my mind, for the “microbes” were just as venomous and wicked
as if they had been Hindustani Interpreters at the Afghan Court, and
that is saying much.

Instead of being in bed, I had to jog along on horseback half the day.
Instead of a sick man’s diet, I got a little cold meat and bread when
and how I could; sometimes after a fast of ten or eleven hours. Under
these circumstances, of what use could the Amîr’s or anyone else’s
medicine be?

The first day’s march was very beautiful: by the banks of a river which
ran through cultivated valleys and ravines: and here and there were
cascades. At the end of the march I was faint, and the Armenian rushed
off to the medical stores for some brandy. He then sent a report in
to the Amîr, and the next day His Highness kindly sent me his Shikari
elephant. Riding the elephant was much easier work than horse riding: I
could take a supply of suitable food, and I picked up again. We started
at four in the morning, before the others: for an elephant goes slowly,
and cavalry and baggage-horses shy, and then on the mountains, or in a
crowd, accidents happen.

I was rocked along through gorges and valleys and villages. In a
village, if a wall were in the way, the elephant kicked it over with
his foot, and walked across the garden or orchard, as the case might
be. We started at two the next morning, for the road was hilly. The
cavalry horses were still tethered in line, and, as we passed them,
they struggled and pulled against the foot-ropes to escape the awful
creature. It was moonlight, and the deep shadows and gleaming rocks
and peaks were the reality of Doré’s fantastic ideas. When we camped,
patients were brought to me from the villages as well as from the army:
one peasant who had brought a sick child presented me with a lamb.

The day after--Sunday--we had to make a long detour to avoid a gorge
that was too narrow for the elephant to get through.

On Monday morning I turned out at half-past four. It felt bitterly
cold, and I put on an ulster. We waited awhile, but no elephant turned
up. Some said he was ill with fever; others said the Sultana had sent
for him. They therefore saddled the black pony and I mounted.

[Sidenote: Dangerous Passes.]

We had such awful mountain passes to traverse that the camels and
pack-horses were compelled to go another and much longer road. One path
I remember on the side of a mountain: it was about five feet wide: in
one place it had crumbled away, and was hardly two feet wide, with a
precipice going sheer down. The path went steeply up and steeply down,
and was covered with little loose stones. It was no good trying to
ride it, for on account of the loose pebbles, a horse could not climb
it with a man on his back. I got off, put the bridle over my arm, and,
scotching my feet on firmer pieces of rock, managed to get up, the
horse scrambling after me. Though I was ill and weak, I could not help
a burst of laughter at the Armenian as he crawled up on all fours.

On Tuesday, at ten a.m., we reached Kamard or Shush-Bûrjah, and my tent
was put up in an orchard. I lay under a walnut-tree all day and saw
patients. We stayed here three days, and His Highness held a Durbar. I
went, and His Highness told me about the source of a river there: how
it came from a tunnel at the foot of the mountain, and the water was
hot; and how it rendered the valley warm in the winter. I had lunch
with His Highness, and then went to attend to a man with a broken thigh.

On the Friday, we started again and crossed that awful mountain, the
“Tooth-breaker,” Dandan Shikan. I found that the road had been greatly
improved since I was last there. As it was, however, there were a great
many accidents. We went on to Saighan, and they brought one old fellow
of seventy to me, the uncle of the Chief Secretary, or Dabier-ul-Mulk.
His horse had slipped sideways on Dandan Shikan, and he had broken
his right arm just below the shoulder and his right thigh just above
the knee. I put him up in splints, and he was carried the rest of the
journey in a sort of cradle slung on a camel; another injured man being
on the other side. The old man quite recovered.

We camped one day at Akrab-abad, and though it was the middle of July,
the night was excessively cold. The winter there is bitter, hence the
name--Akrab meaning a scorpion. It is about ten thousand feet above the

We reached the western extremity of the Bamian Valley, and His
Highness’s chief cook had a row with mine. Between the two I received
some beef-tea that was sour. The Hakim Abdur Rashid, having been
sent by His Highness to enquire how I was, the Armenian, with much
vigour and energy, detailed the iniquities of the cooks. The matter
was reported to His Highness: he sent for the cooks and informed
them that if I did not recover he would blow them to pieces from the
cannon’s mouth. My cook bolted before we reached Kabul. I suppose his
“prognosis” of the case was unsatisfactory. I don’t know where he went
to, and I did not see him again till I was better.

[Sidenote: The Camp of the Camels.]

We rode through the Bamian Valley and passed the colossal Figures,
the Caves, the ancient Cities, and the modern fortified Villages. It
was very beautiful, and I really fancied I was better. There were
cornfields, beanfields, grass, trees, and river.

The soldiers camped at the end of the valley, beyond Zohak-i-Marhan,
where it is narrow. There were some camels camped here also, and
their weird moans and bubbling cries echoing back from the rocks were
horrible to hear. They sounded like the hopeless cries of the damned:
at least, I thought so--I was evidently morbid.

Here a soldier of the Amîr’s bodyguard quarrelled with a comrade and
killed him. I don’t know if he were hanged.

I saw a little brown spaniel leading a camel along by a rope. I
really do not know whether a dog is “unclean” or not, but the Afghans
occasionally, though rarely, make pets of them. They more often make
pets of partridges--a speckled bird, with a curious rippling cry--and
train them to fight. I have often seen a bird trotting along after his
master: it looks very odd.

We went through the ravine where the water dashes down and enters a
tunnel in the rock. Further on, a camel in the crush was pushed over
the edge and fell with his load down the ravine. Its young one sprang
after it. The Amîr passing some time afterwards with his guard, halted
to look at the place. The horse of one of the guard was frightened,
and backed away from the precipice: the man, incensed, cut it violently
with the cruel doubled-lashed Afghan whip; the horse gave a bound
forward, and he and his rider disappeared over the edge.

From here the road led over high mountains, and it was very cold and
rainy. I had to have occasional doses of brandy from the medical stores
in order to keep going, and at one place His Highness, when he arrived,
was kind enough to stop at my tent to enquire how I was. The next day,
he sent his palanquin to me, and I was borne along on the shoulders of
four sturdy Afghans. I was not a heavy burden, unfortunately, and they
hurried along up hill and down dale, over rocks and through defiles at
a pace that was to me, in my feebleness, terrifying.

We camped at Gardandiwal. This was the occasion I referred to some way
back, on which I gave a banquet to a dozen men--the relays of palanquin
bearers--which cost me rather less than sixpence a head. I ought to say
that the men refused at first, lest the fact might reach His Highness’s
ears and displease him.

Here His Highness sent me some specimens to test for coal. I am not a
geologist, but, as far as I could judge, from my rough tests, there
was, in the specimens he sent me, some coal and a good deal of stone.

After this I became very ill, and His Highness sent several times
to enquire how I was. One day he sent for the Armenian and gave him
directions as to the diet I should have. He hoped I should be better
on the third day from then, as he wished me to ride into Kabul with
him. He said that brandy was not good for me, as it tended to produce
congestion of the liver.

The next day we arrived at Kalai Kasi, within a few miles of Kabul,
and Mr. Pyne and the two other English engineers rode out from Kabul
to welcome His Highness. Afterwards they came to my tent. I was very
pleased to see them. They were the first English I had seen since
Captain Griesbach left Mazar, more than a year before. They were very
jolly, but their vigorous energy was, to a poor debilitated mortal,
rather overpowering. I remember Pyne enquired why I sat on the ground:
I explained that I had no chair, it was broken. He also asked why I did
not have my hair cut: I told him there was no barber, and that we had
been on the march a month and a half. After dinner they rode back with
a guard to Kabul.

[Sidenote: Kindness of the Amîr.]

Early the next morning His Highness held a Durbar, and at five o’clock
I girded up my loins, mounted a horse, and rode to His Highness’s
quarters. Outside the khirgar, or wigwam, where His Highness slept,
there was erected a large red and white awning. Under this, in the
shade, were several chairs and two or three portable tables covered
with fruit and flowers. Several people, Officers and Courtiers, were
sitting there, and I joined them. Soon, we heard that His Highness had
risen, and I was sent for into the khirgar. His Highness was sitting on
the couch, and on a little table by him were some biscuits and fruit,
and a cup of tea. He enquired very kindly after my health, suggesting
various remedies, and gave me advice as regards diet. He would not
hear of my riding on horseback into Kabul, but said I must be carried
in the palanquin. He said many kind things, and finally gave me
“Rûkhsat,” or permission to depart, for I was feeble. I returned to the
tent till we were ready to start.

The lanes, cornfields, fruit trees, and general freshness and greenness
of the suburbs of Kabul reminded me of England, and were most grateful
to the eye after the dusty barrenness of Mazar.

Presently we turned off from the Kabul road; and some way off I saw a
hill with crowds of people on it. There were rows of spectators on each
side of the road leading to it. Evidently the grand reception was not
to be in the town. I had hoped to get away somewhere and rest.

I became conscious that I was not shaven, and that my collar was an old
one and frayed. I had one, among my much-tattered linen--the Afghan
washermen dash your linen on a stone to wash it, and starch it with
flour--I had one, carefully saved for this very event, but, alas! it
was in a portmanteau!

The Armenian said, “Sir, you not care it. Highness know you ill. Other
men, who is!”

There was no help for it, and we reached the top of the hill. Here,
under a large awning, was a circle of Orientals, in their robes and
turbans, seated on the ground. They were the Maleks and Chiefs from the
Kabul province. At one side of the circle seated on chairs were His
Highness’s two eldest sons, the Princes Habibullah and Nasrullah. I got
out of the palanquin and walked feebly into the middle of the circle
and bowed to the Princes.

They enquired politely after my health, and Prince Habibullah, turning
to the Armenian, said in Persian, “He looks very ill, what is the

[Sidenote: The “High Garden.”]

Then he gave orders for me to be taken to the “Baghi Buland,” or “High
Garden,” on a hill close by. Accordingly I was carried there. This was
where the reception of His Highness was to take place.

[Sidenote: The Reception.]

There was a temporary pavilion erected, gaily adorned with hangings of
crimson and white, and with large bouquets of flowers. It was furnished
with carpets, couches, tables, and chairs. There was a part raised
some three steps, which commanded a view from the window of a little
artificial waterfall, a fountain, trees, and the lovely Baghi Shah
Valley. This valley lies outside Kabul, just north of the Chahar Bagh
Valley, and separated from it by the Asmai Mountains.

A few people were collected in the Pavilion, and the Armenian brought
a chair for me. I knew no one, and felt rather out of it. Presently
Malek, the Amîr’s favourite Page, entered, and everyone stood to
receive him. He took no notice of anyone, but rushed up to me and
enquired how I was. At once the manner of those in the Pavilion
altered. When a European in Kabul has become of interest to the Amîr,
every one bows the knee--metaphorically speaking--and he has a good
time. But once let His Highness’s interest wane, and, as it struck me
then, the said European would be likely to have a very middling time.

A crowd began to collect on the Baghi Buland Hill, some entering the

By-and-bye there was a rattle of kettledrums, a confused murmur of
many voices--but no cheering as in England--and the Amîr approached,
riding on horseback. There was a great deal of bustle, and suddenly
the two Princes appeared just outside the Pavilion. The Amîr, having
reached the top of the hill, dismounted: the crowd opened, and the two
Princes advancing, knelt and kissed His Highness’s feet. He raised each
one and kissed him on the forehead. The Amîr then entered the Pavilion;
walking with a stick. I took off my solar helmet and bowed with the
rest, and His Highness went up the steps to the raised part of the
hall. The Armenian whispered--

“Follow Highness.”

The Amîr took his seat upon a couch near a large window: in front of
him was a small table with some lovely roses on it.

The Courtiers, the more important Chiefs and I, were standing near. His
Highness caught sight of me almost directly, and most kindly ordered a
chair to be placed in a particular spot near the couch, to the right,
and a little behind where he sat.

Then a salute of several guns was fired: the vibration of the air
making the Pavilion shake, we adjourned temporarily to another room.

On our return Mr. Pyne and the two other Engineers arrived. Pyne looked
very smart in a European frock-coat, with a flower in his button-hole:
the two other Englishmen were neatly dressed in corduroy riding-suits
and long boots.

The Amîr shook hands with Mr. Pyne, spoke to him for a few moments, and
then chairs were placed for them near mine.

About midday I began to feel dreadfully tired, and as some people had
already taken their departure, I turned round and asked Pyne if he
cared to go then.

He said that the Prince had given orders that we were to wait till the
roads were clear, and I waited a little longer. Presently, as I began
to feel giddy, I said to the Armenian--

“I am going.”

He said: “Shahzada Sahib said, a little you stop till----”

“Can’t help it,” I said.

I stood up, stepped to the Amîr’s couch and bowed.

“Rûkhsat?” said His Highness. “Are you going?”

“Bali, Sahib,” I said. “Yes, sir.”

His Highness kindly said, “Bisyar-khôb. Ba aman-i-Khuda.” “Very well.

I bowed and retired.

Outside the Pavilion I got into the palanquin and was carried to Pyne’s
room at the workshops.

I found him there: he had left soon after I had, and, galloping into
Kabul by another road, had arrived before me.

He said I looked ill at the Durbar, and he made me drink a tumblerful
of sparkling hock at once. I stayed with him a fortnight, till my house
was ready. He was exceedingly hospitable, and with well meant, but
somewhat mistaken kindness, forced upon me whisky, beer, hock, and all
sorts of unsuitable food. He tried to brighten me up by taking me about
the workshops and showing me what progress had been made since I had
left Kabul, and in the evening he told me yarns and stories without
number. Once or twice it was almost too much, and I became giddy and
faint. He was very kind, but I was thankful when I got to my house and
could lie down.

With proper diet and medicine I began to improve, but it was months
before I quite recovered.




    The Îd festival: salaam to the Amîr: the educating of Afghans.
    Amîr’s visit to the Workshops: under the mulberry tree: the Amîr’s
    speech. Products of the Workshops. Royal Lunch at Endekki: the
    Invitation: the Brougham: the Palace: Lunch: the Drawing-room:
    the Piano. Evening illumination of gardens: fireworks: dinner.
    The unreliable Interpreter. A night at the Palace. Commencement
    of intrigue. Gifts to the Amîr: the presentation. The rebuke to
    Prince Nasrullah. The barking dog. Noah’s Ark: the nodding images.
    Illness again: the Amîr’s advice: the effect thereof. An afternoon
    call: conversation. Illness of the Amîr: the visit: His Highness’s
    question: the Amîr’s good breeding. An earthquake as an experience.
    Report on Kabul brandy: Mr. Pyne’s opinion: the Interpreter again:
    the Amîr’s perplexity. The Hindu’s objection. The mysterious
    midnight noise: the solution of the mystery. Mumps. The wedding of
    Prince Nasrullah: invitation from the Sultana: the Fête: a band of
    pipers. The Prince and his bride. Overwork at the Hospital. One of
    the troubles of a Ruler. Scenery near Bala Hissar. The Amîr duck
    shooting. The sick chief: his imprudence: his amusements. The will
    of the clan.

[Sidenote: The “Îd” Salaam.]

Four days after our arrival in Kabul, namely on July 28th, the
Mahomedan Festival of Îd commenced, and His Highness held a Durbar
in the “Salaam Khana.” I went, accompanied by the Armenian. I should
have been better in bed. We waited in the large hall, I talking to
one of the Chief Secretaries. Presently we heard the rattle of drums,
indicating that the Amîr had arrived. He did not, however, come in,
and I was wondering where he was, when a Page came and spoke to the
Armenian, and he and I and the Secretary were conducted upstairs to the
Guest House that I have already described. His Highness, seated in an
arm-chair, was almost alone in the room. After I had made my bow an
arm-chair was placed for me opposite the Amîr, so that he could speak
to me conveniently. His Highness had been talking some little while
when Mr. Pyne arrived; he continued talking to us both for some time.
He referred to the work we both of us had done: said that it was a
means of educating his people; referred to my having become ill in his
service, and promised me some months’ leave of absence that winter, in
order that I might recover my health in my own country.

Presently, lunch was served, and he ordered for me broth thickened with

Three days after this, the Amîr visited the workshops. I did not join
the party until the Amîr had finished inspecting the machinery, but
went to see two or three people who were sick. When I returned to the
shops I found His Highness had finished inspecting. He was seated in
the grounds under the shade of a huge mulberry tree. A table was placed
in front of him on which were fruit and sweetmeats.

There were seated at the table, on the Amîr’s right, the two eldest
Princes. Opposite His Highness were Sirdar Usuf Khan, the Amîr’s uncle;
Mr. Pyne; and the Dabier-ul-mulk, or Chief Secretary. I bowed to His
Highness, and he ordered a chair to be placed for me on his left.
We ate some sweets and fruit, and His Highness expressed his great
satisfaction at the progress that had been made in the workshops. His
saying of “My money, your work, and God’s help will produce what I
need” has become proverbial.

There were stationary engine, steam-hammer, steam-saws, cartridge
plant, a minting machine, and a blast smelting furnace.

Big guns, machine guns, rifles, swords, leather work, soap, candles,
and coin, were made by the busy hands of hundreds of men, Afghans and
Hindustanis, under the direction of Mr. Pyne and his assistants. Since
then more machinery has been added to the shops, but they have been so
recently described in the public press that I need not go into further

When His Highness had finished speaking he shook hands with Mr. Pyne,
and acknowledging the salutations of the others, he departed.

I heard that a soldier was detected slipping a cartridge into his rifle
just as His Highness entered the shops, but that he was seized before
he could do any mischief, even if he desired.

Four days after the Royal visit to the workshops His Highness became
the guest of the two eldest Princes at the Palace of Endekki. This is
about six miles out of Kabul, in the Chahardeh Valley.

[Sidenote: Lunch at Endekki.]

About two o’clock in the afternoon came a letter inviting the
Englishmen, Mr. Pyne, myself, and one of the two Engineers, to meet His
Highness there. A small brougham was sent for us. The roads about Kabul
are good, and His Highness and the Princes have several carriages.

The Palace of Endekki is at the top of a small hill. In the distance
it has rather the appearance of a Greek temple with pillars around
it. After climbing the hill one mounts a flight of stone steps to a
terrace, from the centre of which rises the main body of the Palace. A
few more steps, and one enters a lobby which leads into the long hall.
This has a row of pillars in the centre supporting the roof, and is
lit on each side by three large windows. It was furnished somewhat
elaborately in the European style; resembling very much, though it was
smaller than, the Salaam Khana, or great Durbar Hall in Kabul.

Lunch was brought soon after our arrival, and we three English sat at a
table by ourselves, being waited upon by the chief Hindustani cook.

After lunch His Highness invited us into a small room opening into
the long hall at the opposite end from the lobby. This was a very
pretty little room: one side of it was bowed or rounded, and had three
large windows in it overlooking the valley. The room was furnished
like an English drawing-room, even to the Collard and Collard piano.
His Highness asked if either of us could play, and Mr. Pyne sat down
and played some hymns. It seemed very strange to hear “Abide with Me”
in Afghanistan, among Mussulmans. Shortly after this Mr. Pyne felt
rather faint and ill. There was no whisky nor brandy to be had, and
the Amîr suggested champagne, but Mr. Pyne thought he would rather go
back to the shops. He therefore made his adieux to the Amîr and the
Princes; and the Armenian was sent with him. To interpret for me was a
Hindustani--a man with more polish of manner than the Armenian.

In the evening we accompanied His Highness and the Princes into the
Palace gardens, and arm-chairs were placed for us on the terrace. As
soon as it was dark the gardens and the grounds around the foot of the
hill were lit up with innumerable little coloured lamps. Rockets were
let off from the valley, and we leant back in our chairs and admired.

[Sidenote: The Unreliable Interpreter.]

Later on we had dinner out in the gardens. Afterwards the engineer,
Mr. Myddleton, asked me if we could not leave, as he wanted to get to
his work early in the morning. I accordingly told the Hindustani to
enquire. He answered that he was sure His Highness wished us to stay
the night at Endekki. We were exceedingly doubtful about this: there
seemed no reason why we should stay; but the Hindustani was so certain
about it that finally we yielded, especially as the Hindustani hinted
that probably His Highness would be offended if we asked. The real fact
was, as we suspected, that the man wanted to stay himself.

A comfortable little room was given us in a block of buildings
attached to the Palace and built on the side of the hill. Charpoys and
cigarettes were provided, and waiters attended upon us.

We left directly after breakfast the next morning, the brougham taking
us back. Pyne had quite recovered, and was at work in the shops. He
took the Engineer to task somewhat for remaining at the Palace all
night. I explained how we had been misled by the Interpreter.

This man presently began to pay court to me. He came frequently to see
me: was very deferential and polite: wished to teach me Persian; and he
dropped occasional innuendoes and slighting remarks about the Armenian.
He was always hanging about the Palace whenever I went there, and with
a smile edged in a word of correction whenever the Armenian translated.
It annoyed me. I did not want his corrections. I quite understood the
Armenian, and knew enough Persian to tell whether he were giving me
the meaning of the Amîr’s words honestly or not. When, on the other
hand, the Hindustani translated my words to His Highness, he spoke such
flowery Persian and worked in so much Arabic that I could not follow
him. I foresaw trouble, for he was one of those who say the thing which
is not.

About this time a box containing presents, that I had written home for
from Turkestan, arrived, and I sent to enquire when I might have the
honour of laying them before His Highness. A day was appointed; and
after I had amputated a man’s leg, which happened to be arranged for
the same day, I went to the Erg Palace. His Highness received me most
graciously. He was sitting in the Octagonal Hall that contained the
pictures of the Houses of Parliament. The portrait that I had painted
of His Highness was also hanging there. It had been sent to India to be
framed and glazed. The Amîr had had plate glass put over it, ordering
a looking glass to be bought large enough and the silver to be scraped
off the back.

Prince Habibullah, one or two Secretaries, and several Page boys were
in the room with His Highness when I arrived. I sat on a couch in a
convenient position, and presently Prince Nasrullah entered. I stood up
and bowed as he went by. I do not know whether the Prince recognized
me: he did not return my bow. He went to His Highness and salaamed.
His Highness said something to the Prince that I did not hear, and the
Prince was kind enough to return at once to where I was sitting and
enquire if I were well. I thanked His Highness the Prince for his kind
enquiries, but I did not rise.

[Sidenote: The Noah’s Ark.]

Then the presents were examined. They were not of any consequence,
but were such as I could give. It had struck me that a writing-cabinet
and paper stamped with the Royal name, might be a convenience to the
Amîr. I had sent for one, therefore, and had directed the cabinet to
be decorated with an original design in metal by an artist friend.
There were various other things, all of which His Highness examined.
For the little Prince, Mahomed Omer, were several mechanical toys. The
Page boys gathered in a cluster behind the Amîr, as he was examining
these. Among them was a mechanical dog that jumped and barked, and the
boys were much interested, and there was a good deal of laughter, when
one of the Page boys snatched his hand away as the Amîr made the dog
jump at him. Then came a Noah’s ark, with some well modelled animals,
all of which His Highness stood up on the table. A model steam-engine
excited a good deal of interest, as did the little tin men, who walked
rapidly along, dragging their little tin carts. A toy sword and rifle
the Amîr decided to put by till the Prince was older. For the Sultana,
there were various novelties in the way of brooches and fans; but these
were not examined at that time. Some nodding china images amused the
Amîr very much. Altogether, His Highness must have been three hours
examining everything, for I went to the Palace at one and got back home
at five.

The excitement of the various Durbars and dinners did me no good, and
during the month of August--the bad month in Kabul--I was confined to
my bed. Just at that time, His Highness sent a carpenter to me for
instructions, so that a framework might be made for the canvas of a
full-length portrait. I am sorry to say the portrait was never painted.

Mr. Pyne called two or three times to ask me to go for a ride with
him. That being an impossibility, he sat down and told me some amusing

One day, the Armenian was sent for to the Durbar, and when he returned,
he told me that His Highness had been enquiring as to my diet. I was
not to have any more beef-tea, and no brandy or whisky: I had not drank
them in Mazar, why should I drink them in Kabul. I was to have rice and
sago only.

Sago boiled in water for breakfast and rice boiled in water for dinner
is abominably nasty, especially if you can vary the diet only by
putting salt in one day and leaving it out the next. I never knew what
real unadulterated hunger was till then. I dreamed of Roast-beef and
Yorkshire pudding, of Duck and green peas, but being powerless in bed,
I had to put up with the rice and sago and--became better. I have hated
them ever since, which--in the abstract--seems ungrateful.

One day they brought a man into my bedroom, who looked even more of a
scarecrow than I did. I looked at him, asked a question or two, and
said feebly to Hafiz, the compounder,

“Recipe, pulveris ipecacuanhæ grana viginti, statim sumendus”--“boiled
rice and sago--bed.” He got well before I did: he was used to the diet.
A little girl of eleven, who had had fever for six months, was brought
by His Highness’s orders: all she needed was quinine.

Shere Ali Khan, my friend of Mazar, called to see me one day while
the Armenian was out, and we had a long and amusing conversation in
Persian, supplemented occasionally by signs. We quite understood one
another. We discussed anatomy, climate, diamonds, marriage; and I
remember we compared the customs of European ladies with those of
Oriental ladies. Shere Ali defended polygamy. We had an earthquake in
the evening--not that it had anything to do with the conversation. At
different times many people called. Some of them were ill and wished to
be prescribed for.

[Sidenote: Illness of Amîr.]

In the beginning of September, I heard that His Highness was ill with
gout, and I wrote to ask if I should come and see him. The answer came
that I was to visit him the next day. Accordingly, I gathered myself
together, mounted my horse, and rode slowly to the Erg Palace. The
Armenian had brought me a walking-stick, so that I could get across the
Palace gardens. I found His Highness was in one of the upper rooms.
Getting upstairs was rather breathless work, and I had to take my time
over it.

In the lobby outside the room were several Military Officers and
Secretaries seated on the ground. Through the open door I saw His
Highness lying on a couch. I bowed, and he called me in. The room
was very small, and a chair was put for me near the head of the bed.
Tea was brought for me in a glass mug set in silver. His Highness
then described to me his symptoms. He had gouty inflammation of the
right foot and knee; pains in most of his joints, and sciatica: he
was feverish and shivering. I told him what treatment I should adopt
if I had charge of the case. His Highness said that the Hakims, who
were attending him, had bled him, and had leeched the inflamed joints.
I said I hoped the treatment would not make him worse afterwards.
By-and-bye I took my leave.

I went the next day to see His Highness, and he expressed himself as
feeling much better. The pain was nearly gone. He told me that he had
procured an oil from the colchicum plant, and this had been gently
rubbed into the inflamed joints.

Two Page boys were in the room. One was “massaging” His Highness’s
painful leg, and the other waving away flies with a fan. His Highness
spoke very kindly to me, and suddenly asked if I intended to marry when
I went to England on leave. I was rather taken aback when he asked,
whereat the Page boys smiled; but, summoning up courage, I said yes.
His Highness promised me a very substantial wedding present. Later on,
after we had had tea, I heard the hubble-bubble going round in the next
room, and mechanically pulling out a cigar I began cutting the tip off.
Suddenly it struck me I was in the King’s bedroom. I felt somewhat
ashamed, for I had not been invited to smoke. However, His Highness had
seen me take the cigar out; and I rather lamely asked if he minded the
smell of smoke. He said, “Not in the least,” and, seeing my confusion,
he at once put me at my ease by calling for a cigarette, which he lit
and smoked.

The next morning early my house was found to be on fire: fortunately it
was discovered in time, and the neighbours were _not_ fined for setting
it alight.

[Sidenote: The Earthquake.]

That night I was awakened suddenly by an awful earthquake. The
heaving of the floor, the creaking of the beams, and the rattling of
the windows increased and increased. I sprang out of bed and tried to
light a candle. I could not find the matchbox; then I found it, opened
it, took a match hurriedly, and broke it: took another and tried to
strike the wrong end, then another, and I began to think whether I
hadn’t better make a bolt for it at once. At last I got a light and the
candle caught: it was half-past one. I stood a moment or two with the
candle in my hand, and presently I fancied the rocking and creaking
was becoming less: then it occurred to me that, after all, the house
had stood so many earthquakes, that may be it would stand another, and
I waited a little longer: it really did become less, and finally died
away. The shocks lasted several minutes. Afterwards I walked round with
my candle to look for cracks. There was only one of any consequence;
but that I could put my hand into. However, I did not think it mattered
very much, for the beams went the other way, and if the worst came,
only the end of the room would fall out: so I went to bed again.

After this I got to work again at the Hospital. I attended regularly
at a certain hour in the morning; the patients daily increased so in
number, to nearly two hundred a day, that at the end of the week I
became feverish with a Hospital throat. This was very annoying, for
I had to stop away for a couple of days. I was afraid His Highness
would begin to think he had made a bad bargain in engaging a Doctor
who was generally ill, or fancied himself so. However, I was soon
better, and on the following Sunday went to the Palace to lay a report
before the Amîr. His Highness had asked me to test the purity of the
spirit, “Brandy, Whisky, and Old Tom,” that was being made in the Kabul

I found His Highness downstairs in one of the small rooms of the Erg
Palace that open from the Octagonal hall. He was lying on a fur-covered
couch heaped with pillows. He looked better than he had done, though he
still had some gouty pains in the right knee.

The room was small, but very pretty. There were mirrors let into the
wall, which made the room seem larger.

Outside the large wide window opening into the gardens was erected a
crimson and white awning. Here were grouped the officials who had to
see His Highness on business. I sat inside, near the Amîr’s couch,
and the air was sweet with scent from the clusters of roses which
filled the vases in the room. A few Page boys were there. His Highness
described to me the trouble he had had in getting down stairs with
his gouty knee; and he gave me further details as to the treatment he
was undergoing for the gout: how that he had been bled and leeched
frequently, and that when the pain in his foot was very severe it had
been necessary to plunge the foot into iced water!

Tea was brought in: His Highness said that green tea was not good for
me in my state of health; he therefore ordered black tea to be brought,
and he made me a present of several pounds.

I then gave my report as to the Spirit. It was made from the
fermentation of raisins, and distilled in a proper still; but the
so-called Brandy, Whisky, and “Old Tom” were simply the raw spirit
coloured and flavoured with native drugs: none of it was fit for human
consumption, and those who drank it became ill.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Perplexity.]

Presently, Mr. Pyne was announced. He also gave an opinion concerning
the spirit: he said it was not good, but at the same time admitted that
it would sell in Peshawur. The Hindustani interpreted for him: I do not
know what he said, I could not follow the Persian, but His Highness
seemed perplexed. He said that since the opinion of two of his European
servants disagreed he would send the spirit to Calcutta to be tested.

The maker of the spirit was a Hindu, who, I understood, had been
imported into the country by the Hindustani Interpreter.

I remember that one of the objections the Hindu and the Hindustani
made to my report was that I had said “Gin” instead of “Old Tom.” They
said the spirit was not gin (they were quite right), but that it was
“Old Tom”! I let the matter pass: it seemed too absurd to argue on the
point. Meanwhile the making of Spirit was to be continued, but that of
“Brandy, Whisky, and Old Tom” to be stopped till further information on
the subject was obtained.

A few nights after the Durbar I was awakened about midnight by an
extraordinary and mysterious noise that seemed to come “whiffling by.”
It was followed in a few seconds by a shorter and sharper noise which
literally made the earth shake. I had never felt an earthquake like
that before, and I wondered what was coming next. Dogs were barking,
horses neighing, and men shouting. The noise woke up everybody. We
listened and listened, but there was no repetition, and I went to
sleep again. The next morning we heard the solution of the mystery.
The rocket and firework factory in Kabul had blown up. It was not very
far from the workshops, and Pyne told me he thought he should have
been thrown out of bed. I enquired as to the loss of life, and heard
that some people had been killed, but no one seemed very interested in
that line of enquiry. Nor did I ever hear the cause of the explosion
accounted for. Doubtless it was “Kismet.”

We had an epidemic of “mumps” in Kabul at the time, I remember, and
the Hindustani Hospital assistant, the gentlemanly Dipsomaniac, had it
rather badly.

In the beginning of October I received an invitation from Her Highness
the Sultana to attend the Reception after the wedding of Prince

[Sidenote: Wedding of Prince Nasrullah.]

It was quite a fête, and was held in the Baburshah gardens, about a
mile and a half out of the town, on the banks of the Kabul river.

The Invitation said seven a.m., but I started about half-past nine. The
day was bright and sunny, like an August day in England.

I rode, accompanied by the Armenian; and the servants walked in front
and by the side of the horses after the manner of the country. I put
on all my finery, including the medal His Highness had given me. The
garden was gay with many-coloured tents and awnings, and crowded with
Orientals in gala costume. The green of the grass and trees; the hazy
red and blue of the mountains; the gleam and ripple of the river: all
these, with the gay colours, made a beautiful picture.

The Prince had not arrived, and I went to a large tent where the
Commander-in-Chief, the Officers, and Chief Secretaries were, and sat
and chatted with them till the Prince arrived.

Presently His Highness sent for me. I found him seated under a large
awning surrounded by Courtiers, who were standing. There were many
others seated cross-legged on the ground in a semicircle in front of
him. I stopped outside the circle and bowed with my hat off. A chair
was placed exactly in the middle of the circle, opposite to the Prince,
and he beckoned me to sit there. I offered my congratulations; the
Prince kindly enquired after my health; and complimentary speeches were

Shortly afterwards the Commander-in-Chief, the Officers, and
Secretaries came to salaam His Highness, and I bowed and retired.

I was then conducted to a tent on the bank, which was made ready for
me, and tea and cigarettes were brought by order of the Sultana, whose
guest I was.

Directly I had arrived at the garden I had sent in my salaams to the
Sultana. She, with the bride and the attendants of the Harem were in a
small walled garden apart. His Highness the Amîr was not present. He
was still suffering somewhat from the gouty attack.

By-and-bye Mr. Pyne and the Engineers arrived, and they came to my
tent. At noon the Sultana gave orders for lunch to be served to us.
It was cooked in the native fashion, and consisted of pilau and the
various other native dishes.

After lunch Mr. Pyne and the Engineers went to pay their respects to
the Prince and then started for home again; but the Sultana sent a
request for them to stay longer.

The Armenian enquired if we should like some music, and he sent for a
band of pipers. They marched with their bagpipes up and down in front
of the tent playing Scotch and Afghan tunes. There were several other
bands about the garden--brass bands and native string bands--playing
military and native music. There were dancing boys, conjurers, and
nautch girls.

The chief men lunched in tents and the crowds of people had a picnic on
the grass; pilau and bread being provided for them.

About two the Sultana sent a huge tray of sweetmeats with which we
regaled ourselves. At half-past two the fête was over and we came away.
The roads were lined with troops, for the Sultana, the ladies, and the
Princes had not yet left.

For a few days before and after the wedding volleys of musketry were
fired at intervals, and bands were playing nearly all day.

I heard a story at the time about the Prince and his Bride which is
interesting. When the Prince was very small he was very fond of a
particular girl in the Harem--a gentlewoman--and he said that when he
was old enough he would make her his wife. The girl was considerably
older than he was, and it is said that in the course of years the
Prince’s views changed. His Highness the Amîr, however, decided that
since he was a Prince, and had passed his word, he should certainly
keep it. In due time the word was kept. This was the wedding.

[Sidenote: Troubles of a Ruler.]

At the Hospital the work was getting rather overwhelming. I was
not strong yet, but if I appeared at the Hospital at all, I had to
see everyone. At the hundred and twentieth or thirtieth patient the
backache came on horribly. If I did not go the patients crowded round
the door of the Hospital and said, “When is the Doctor coming; ask
him to come for God’s sake.” What could I do? I was obliged to go. If
I had been strong I should have enjoyed it, but the overwork delayed
my recovery, and I became much depressed. I thought of resigning and
coming away, but I knew His Highness was not yet well, and in addition
he had just then the annoyance of finding evidence of intrigue and
swindling among some of the higher Officials: heavy fines were imposed,
and there were extensive alterations in the higher appointments. I
did not want to add to his annoyances by resigning; but to my last
day I shall never forget the weary drag of that and the immediately
succeeding time.

On Friday, the Sabbath, I went for a ride with the Armenian. We rode
east from Kabul past the Bala Hissar, where Cavagnari was, and round
the huge marsh or lake that lies in the middle of the Kabul Valley. All
around were the mountains, and between them and the lake were fields
of clover, stubble where corn had been, gardens, trees, and fortified
country houses. The lake is in some parts very deep and in others
shallow. Here the rushes grow thick, making a cover for huge numbers of
wild duck that flock to Kabul in the autumn and winter. A great deal
of the land about the marsh belongs to His Highness’ sister. We passed
her country house--a fort. We saw also the tomb where the Amîr’s father
is buried. At the extreme east of the lake, near the village of Bîni
Hissar, the road took us a little up the foot of the mountain. I pulled
up a few minutes to admire the view.

In the foreground, on the margin of the lake, was one tree coloured
golden-yellow by the autumn: near it were others still green. Beyond
were brown rushes and the lake. Further, on the opposite bank, the
trees, massed together, were tinted all shades of green, brown, and
yellow. Then rose up the hazy purple mountains, range beyond range, dim
and shadowy in the distance, and above, the blue of the sky flecked
here and there by little white clouds.

I was charmed--but I could not rouse any enthusiasm in the Armenian.
Like most Orientals he looked upon an afternoon ride as an unnecessary
and laborious nuisance; still he would not consent to my going alone.

In the autumn and winter the Amîr and the Princes ride duck shooting
through the shallow parts of the marsh.

One day, some two or three years after the time of which I am writing,
I was riding in this direction with Mr. Collins, the geologist, when,
just as we rounded the corner of the Peshawur Road, which leads off
directly opposite the Bala Hissar, we heard the rattle of kettledrums.
We pulled up, knowing that the Amîr must be at hand. Presently, there
came in sight right opposite the Bala Hissar the Amîr’s mounted guard
of Barakzais. Then came the drummers, who rode just in front of His
Highness. We dismounted as the Amîr approached. He was seated in his
palanquin, and the bearers scuffled along rapidly, leaning on the pole.
His Highness carries a walking-stick when he rides in the palanquin,
and if the pace is not speedy enough, the nearest bearer receives a
reminder in the shape of a prod in the back. His Highness, when he saw
us, halted the cavalcade and enquired if we were well. He told us he
had been duck shooting on the Bala Hissar marsh.

It was a pretty sight. The young Page boys in their gold-embroidered
uniforms scampered about on their horses. The guard rode steadily, and
the servants, with their turbans and many-coloured garments--one with
the chillim, another with a charcoal brazier, a third with a samovar
for tea, a fourth with the Amîr’s chair, and so on--these followed in
great numbers. Altogether, with the background of the Bala Hissar, it
made a striking sight.

[Sidenote: The Sick Chief.]

At the end of October, the Chief, whose brother was at the Court of the
Amîr as hostage, came to Kabul to salaam His Highness. The brother,
whom I knew in Turkestan, called one morning upon me to say that the
Chief, who had wished to come and see me, was ill with fever; would I
visit and prescribe for him. Accordingly, I accompanied my friend to
the house the Chief had taken in Kabul. A large following of dependants
and servants had arrived with him. They treated me with great respect,
and I was shown in an upper-room, where the Chief lay ill with fever.
He was a broad-shouldered stout man, about five feet seven inches in
height, and I should say about thirty-five years old. He was not alone:
the room was nearly full of people; I think an Afghan hates nothing
more than his own company: he is bored in no time.

The province belonging to the Chief has a very hot climate. It lies in
the south-east. In Kabul, at this time, though the sun was still hot,
there was a cutting wind blowing, and the Chief and his people did not
wrap themselves up as they should have done.

Tea, cigars, and sweets were brought, and after examining the Chief’s
condition, I sat and talked to him and his brother for some time.
He was an intelligent man. One of his favourite amusements was
photography; he dabbled, too, in chemistry, and showed me a scar in his
hand, where he had been injured by an explosion when he was learning
something about the science. Afterwards, I examined some of his
retinue; eight of them were ill with the fever.

This Chief was beloved, or admired--or whatever the corresponding
sentiment is in an Afghan’s bosom--by his Clansmen. But in the eyes
of His Highness he was as a poppy grown very tall. It was necessary
that something be done lest he should overtop all other flowers. He
had, I heard, been receiving a subsidy of a lac of rupees a year from
the Afghan Government. This was altered: and while he was in Kabul, a
new “Governor” was sent to take command in his province. This was not
pleasing to the Clansmen: they did not love--or whatever the sentiment
is--the Governor as they did the Chief, for he was a stranger. They,
therefore, slew him. Another was sent; him they also slew, and the
Chief was by-and-bye allowed to return to his Province, though without
the subsidy.



    Sent for to the Palace. The Amîr’s health: the Liniment. Questions
    in chemistry. Early breakfast at the Palace. A courtier as a
    waiter. Called to Prince Aziz Ullah: his illness. Illness of the
    Deputy Commander-in-Chief. Illness of the Amîr’s cousin. A visit
    to Prince Mahomed Omer. The Queen’s brougham: her reverend uncle.
    The reception. Lunch. The present. The Jelalabad official and his
    promise. Dinner with Mr. Pyne. Death of Prince Aziz Ullah. The
    Chief ill again. The weather. The silence at the Palace. December
    2nd: the Call. The town at night. Illness of the Amîr. His request:
    his bodily condition: former treatment. The Amîr’s prayer. Medical
    treatment. The next morning. Bulletins. Called to the Sultana. The
    Harem. The Sultana’s illness: her condition. A poisonous dose.
    Improvement of Amîr: and of Sultana. The innocent plot: betrayal.
    A present. Musicians. Amîr and Sultana as patients. Annoyances by
    an interpreter. A shock. The Sultana’s letter: the answer. News
    from Malek, the Page. Comments. The Amîr’s rebuke. In the Harem:
    the Armenian’s comments. Quarters in the Prince’s quadrangle. The
    Amîr’s relapse.

In the early part of November I was sent for to the Erg Palace. When
I arrived, His Highness was sitting on a couch or divan covered with
a cloth of dull crimson velvet and gold. He was dressed in a robe of
green velvet and gold with a white turban. The couch was in the small
room that opens on one side into the Octagonal hall, and on the other
into the gardens. His Highness said that he still had some pain in the
knee and foot, and he would be glad if I would send him a liniment that
would take away the pain and enable him to ride.

[Sidenote: Questions in Chemistry.]

Afterwards he asked my opinion with regard to the action of certain
acids of native production, and we tried some experiments upon copper
and brass. His Highness wanted an acid that could be procured cheaply,
for the purpose of cleaning copper cartridge cases.

The next day I went to the Palace again, taking with me a liniment.
Presently Malek, the favourite Page, came out, and seeing me waiting
in the gardens among the Secretaries, came up and asked if he should
take the medicine in and say I had arrived. He soon came out again, and
I was called in with the Armenian. We sat in one of the small rooms
or alcoves, waiting. His Highness was not visible when I went in. He
was in the room he had occupied the day before, but it was curtained
off from the Octagonal hall. Two or three of the Page boys came up
and asked when I was going to London. I began to think my “leave
of absence” had been mentioned by the Amîr. Just then His Highness
appeared; he was fully dressed, and walked with the aid of a stick.
We all rose and bowed. A table and chair were placed for him in the
room where we were. He spoke to me about his health, and asked me the
properties of the liniment, saying it had a pleasant smell.

Presently the “early breakfast” was brought for the Amîr on a silver
tray. It consisted of tea, which he drank out of a glass mug set in
silver, hot milk, and some cakes and macaroons. A table and tea were
brought for me, and I sat opposite to him. The others sat on the ground
and tea was carried round to them by the servants. His Highness did
not eat anything, and he told one of the Courtiers, Naim Khan, to
bring the tray to me. I do not know if Naim liked being a waiter for
once in a way, but he obeyed at once. However, he was a good fellow,
about twenty-six, and was always a friend of mine, so I do not think
he minded very much. He was very smart, with a pale blue--almost
grey--brocaded silk postîn and a beaver busby. The Amîr asked me to
visit the Deputy Commander-in-Chief, Perwana Khan, who was ill.

[Sidenote: Prince Aziz Ullah.]

I returned to the Hospital, but in the afternoon was sent for again
by His Highness. He asked me to examine and prescribe for his infant
son, Prince Aziz Ullah, who, the Hakims informed him, was suffering
from disease of the ear. I went off to the Harem Serai at once, and
presently the child was brought out into the waiting-room. He was
carried in the arms of an old man. The child was about two years old,
and was the son of one of the minor ladies of the Harem. He was a
pretty little fellow, with large dark eyes and a fair skin. I looked at
him as he was being brought out, and saw a dusky livid appearance about
the lips; and that the nostrils worked at each breath.

“A bad ear!” I thought. “If that is not lungs, I am an Afghan!”

I put my ear on his back, and the bubbling and crackling of the air as
it was sucked through the inflamed bronchial tubes was loud enough for
even a Hakim to hear. I asked how long he had been like that. Twenty
days! He was suffering from broncho-pneumonia following measles. The
ear was a trivial matter.

Perwana Khan was suffering, the Hakim said, from colic. I found he had
a stone in the kidney.

The same day I received a letter from Prince Habibullah asking me to
attend Sirdar Ressùl Khan, the Amîr’s cousin, son of Sirdar Usuf, who
is the son of Amîr Dôst Mahomed. Sirdar Ressùl had a crippled arm: he
had injured it some time before while out duck shooting.

I was told that the liniment relieved the Amîr’s pain at once; but I do
not know--it may have been merely Oriental politeness that led them to
say so. I did not see His Highness for some days, as he was the guest
of the Dabier-ul-Mulk.

[Sidenote: Visit to Prince Mahomed Omer.]

A day or two afterwards, as I had not seen the little Prince, Mahomed
Omer, since my illness, I wrote to the Sultana for permission to visit

He was living with the Sultana, at a place about ten miles out of
Kabul: the country house of one of the Chief Secretaries, Mir Ahmad
Shah, having been placed at Her Highness’ service.

The Sultana was kind enough to send her brougham and pair for me. The
roads were very good, and I felt very important riding rapidly along in
the Queen’s carriage.

We reached the Prince’s quarters. He had a separate establishment from
the Sultana, and I was conducted to a crimson and blue tent. Tea,
cigars, and sweets were brought while my salaams were carried to the
Prince and word was taken to the Sultana that I had arrived. After
staying there about an hour, we got into the carriage again and drove
about half a mile further on to the Port, where the Sultana was living.
Here I was received in a large many-coloured silk tent by the Sultana’s
uncle (on her father’s side). This gentleman is a Seyid and Priest,
and is addressed by the title of “Pir” or Reverend.

My chair was placed at the end of the tent, by the side of that of
the Reverend gentleman, on a cloth of gold. The others, including the
Armenian, sat on the ground along the sides of the tent, some distance
from us. I perceived that the Sultana did things in style. Many polite
speeches were made, and kind messages brought from Her Highness. Trays
of sweetmeats then appeared, native ones--and delicious. I went for
them vigorously, for since my illness I had an intense craving for
sweets, butter, and all fattening things. Cigars and tea followed, and,
after an interval, fruit. There were apples, pears, grapes, quinces,
melons, and other fruit. Then came lunch, an elaborate one, in the
native style, and uncommonly good I thought it. More cigars, fruit, and
conversation followed.

I did not see the little Prince after all, because the weather was
considered too cold to bring him out.

I then asked permission to retire, but before I went Her Highness
presented me with a beautiful little Kataghani horse, which, I was
informed, she had chosen herself.

We entered the carriage again and drove back to Kabul, arriving home at
five p.m.

I then went to the Harem Serai to see little Prince Aziz Ullah, but the
chance of his recovery was small.

Then I saw an old gentleman, named Saîf Ullah Khan, one of the high
officials of Jelalabad, who was on a visit to Kabul. He had fever. He
was a very gentlemanly old man, and asked if he could do anything for
me in Jelalabad. I said he could send me some honey if he wished; for a
delicious honey is obtained from a village near Jelalabad. He promised;
but did not send it.

I dined with Mr. Pyne soon after this, and an excellent dinner he gave
me. He had brought a large stock of tinned provisions from India during
his last trip. Pastry, asparagus, green peas, cheese, cocoa, and Swiss
milk were novelties to me. He was lucky enough to get away every cold
season, and generally journeyed to England for more machinery.

It had been thought that little Prince Aziz Ullah was becoming somewhat
better, but in spite of colour in the cheeks he had the greyness about
the nostrils that is so ominous of evil in a child, and I sent word to
his mother that his life was in great danger. He died the next morning;
five days after my first visit.

The Chief with fever became well, but he would not take advice and
wrap himself up. Either from that, or some other cause, he developed
acute intestinal catarrh; and the Amîr sent word to me to visit him. He
became well eventually, and went back to his province.

Just at this time--the end of November--the weather was most
disagreeable. There were heavy clouds and constant rain. This is bad
enough in England, but in Kabul it is abominable. The rain made havoc
with the roads and houses. Very few of the roads were in any sense
“macadamized,” and one splashed and slipped along through quagmires and
pools. The houses, especially of the poorer people, slightly built of
mud with wooden supports, were, some of them, literally washed down.

I went about my daily work in Kabul, seeing patients, performing
surgical operations where necessary; and in the evenings I smoked and
read my old books over and over again, little knowing that the Amîr
had had a severe return of gout and was lying dangerously ill at the
Palace. News leaks out in time, chiefly by means of the Page boys, but
it is little outsiders know at first of what is going on in the Palace.

[Sidenote: The Call at Night.]

On December 2nd, at nine p.m., just as I had turned in, there came a
hammering at the gates. Presently one of the soldiers of the guard came
hurrying to my room and said, in Persian,

“Rise! Amîr Sahib calls you.”

I pulled on my boots, threw on a postîn, and in a very few seconds
was in the porch. Quick as I had been, I found my horse saddled and
bridled. I rode rapidly along the dark deserted streets, slippery
with wet, the puddles glistening in the light of an occasional lamp:
a soldier was in front and a soldier behind me. Then I heard the
clatter and splash of other horses, and looking back saw the Armenian
advancing rapidly, accompanied by the soldier who had called him. This
was somewhat of a relief to me, for I did not know the soldiers, and
the Armenian was always a protection. I guessed now that the Amîr was
ill, and that the time had arrived when he wished to undergo European
medical treatment. Presently we arrived at the Erg Palace, and, leaving
our horses at the gate, were at once admitted by the sentry. We hurried
across the gardens to the Amîr’s Pavilion. Entering at once we passed
through the Octagonal Hall, and in the small room opposite the entry I
saw the Amîr lying back on the pillows of his couch. He was rolling
his head from side to side and groaning in great pain. Malek, the Page,
was kneeling on the couch rubbing His Highness’s knee. The two eldest
sons, the Princes Habibullah and Nasrullah, were in the room with the
Amîr, as were Perwana Khan, Jan Mahomed Khan, the Dabier-ul-Mulk, Mir
Ahmad Shah--in fact, most of the principal officers of the Kingdom
who were in Kabul at the time. These were kneeling around the room.
Everyone had a look of strained and anxious attention.

It was obvious that the Amîr was very ill, and I said in English to the

“Enquire if His Highness wishes to place himself under my medical care.”

His Highness, turning his head and looking at me, said, “Bâli! I wish

I laid down my turban, removed the spurs from my boots, and set to work
to examine His Highness’s condition.

[Sidenote: Illness of the Amîr.]

He had acute gouty inflammation of the right shoulder, elbow, wrist,
and knee, and shooting neuralgic pains in the left calf. There was
coarse crepitation of the left axillary base, with cough; some
enlargement of the heart; extreme vesical irritability, and faucial
congestion; and albuminuria to the extent roughly of a fifth. His
temperature was 102 degrees Fahr.: the pulse weak; and I was informed
that he had had no sleep for several nights.

I sat down a minute to consider what I would do. The condition was
serious: for the Amîr had been ill, on and off, to my knowledge, since
September the 9th, and possibly longer. The medical treatment to which
he had been subjected by the Hakims for his complaint was, to my mind,
unscientific, and even dangerous. He had been bled, I was informed,
nearly to faintness, and leeched freely several times: he had been
purged violently and often: and his gouty foot had been plunged into
iced water. What else was done I do not know; but this was enough.

A lantern being procured, I went at once to the Hospital, which is
at the edge of the Palace gardens, and obtained such medicines as I
needed. I was accompanied by the Hindustani Priest-doctor, who was
accused of murdering his Superior Officer in India, and who, as I have
mentioned, was not under my orders. We returned to the Palace, and the
medicines were placed in charge of a trusted Page.

I weighed and measured the medicines in suitable doses, and when they
were dissolved I handed the glass to His Highness. It did not enter
my head to taste a dose of the medicine in front of His Highness, nor
did he ever require me to do so. His Highness took the glass, and,

“In the name of God--the merciful and compassionate,” he drank the

I fomented the inflamed joints with hot water, applying suitable
medicines, and finally bandaged them gently in cotton-wool and tissue.
I then requested as many as I could ask, to withdraw, in the hope that
His Highness might sleep; and I went into an adjoining room. I did not
give His Highness any opiate or other sleeping draught, wishing rather
to trust to the effect of the medicines I had given him. I ought to say
that His Highness, with a courtesy that never leaves him, gave orders
for meals and suitable accommodation for sleeping to be prepared for
me in the adjoining room or alcove. In half-an-hour His Highness slept.
The Princes left very quietly about two hours afterwards.

I need not say that, though a couch, covered with silk and gold
embroidery, had been prepared for me, I did not lie down. I had supper,
which was brought silently by the chief cook: and then, at intervals
during the night, stole in to look at the Royal patient. Exhausted
by suffering and want of rest, and relieved by the action of the
medicines, he slept soundly for three or four hours.

In the early morning His Highness woke: he expressed himself as nearly
free from pain, and was most grateful to me. I administered the
medicines, again applied the fomentations and regulated His Highness’s

Everyone made much of me, from Prince to Page boy. Daily I was required
to send a written report of the Amîr’s condition to Her Highness, the
Sultana, and to Prince Habibullah.

[Sidenote: Illness of the Sultana.]

The next day, I was called to the Harem Serai, for the Sultana was very
ill. The Amîr directed me to attend Her Highness.

I, therefore, left the Amîr’s Pavilion and, by His Highness’s order,
was accompanied by the Priest-doctor, to the Harem Serai. The great
gates were opened by an old white-bearded man, and we were admitted
into a covered portico. The old man left us a moment, and on returning,
he ushered us into a large paved quadrangle surrounded by high white
buildings. No one was to be seen. We crossed the silent quadrangle,
and passing up some steps entered a building on the north side.

An open door led from the lobby at the top of the steps into a long
corridor, curtained and carpeted, but otherwise empty. At the end was a
door, to enter which we ascended three steps. We now found ourselves in
a large room at right angles to the corridor, and lighted by a window
at the end. Towards the other end of the room a thin crimson silk
curtain was stretched entirely across. The room was furnished very like
an English drawing-room. A carpet was on the floor, curtains by the
windows, pictures on the wall, and several tables by the side of the
wall, on which were vases, candelabra, and china ornaments. In nearly
the centre of the room there was standing on the floor a large and very
ornamental glass candelabrum, about six feet high. There were three or
four little Page boys in the room, about nine or ten years of age.

As we entered, a voice from behind the curtain pronounced the usual
Persian salutation of welcome. It was the Sultana speaking. She had
a deep, musical voice. I bowed and advanced. A chair was placed for
me near the curtain, and tea and cigarettes were brought. After I had
tasted the tea, Her Highness requested me to smoke. Accordingly, I lit
a cigarette, and I heard from behind the curtain the bubble of the
chillim. The Sultana then commenced describing her symptoms, but the
Hindustani Priest-doctor had an imperfect knowledge of English, and
he asked that an Interpreter might be sent for. A messenger was at
once sent for the Armenian, who presently entered saying, with a bow,
“Salaam, Aleikoum.” He took his stand near me.

The Sultana raised the curtain sufficiently to pass her hand
underneath, and I examined the pulse. It was rapid (133), and weak. I
perceived that she was lying on a couch--and that the hand was white,
and was that of a young woman. I described the use of the clinical
thermometer, and handed it to her. When she returned it to me the
indicator marked a temperature of 105 degrees Fahr.

She complained of cough, and with some little difficulty I managed, by
asking her to stand, to listen to the sounds of the chest through the
curtain, using a straight wooden stethoscope. Not knowing the height of
Her Highness, I nearly struck her in the face in endeavouring to find
the position of the chest, and she cried out: however, she laughed when
she heard of my difficulty.

She had bronchial catarrh: there were no morbid cardiac sounds; and she
had Malarial fever. I enquired as to the history of the illness, and
the habits of the patient, and heard that she was accustomed to inhale
tobacco-smoke from the chillim pretty much all day; and that in order
to procure sleep she was accustomed to take sixty grains of chloral

I advised the cessation of smoking for a time, and the Sultana laughed.

After about an hour, I asked permission to retire. I prescribed quinine
and a cough mixture; but in the evening, to my horror, I was called
upon to weigh out the usual dose of chloral, tie down the cork of the
bottle, and seal it with my own seal. Sleep! of course I did not
sleep. If a lie had been told me about the dose, the Sultana would be
found dead in the morning.

Meanwhile the Amîr was distinctly better that day, though of course
he was still very ill. The temperature was normal: the vesical
irritability had disappeared: there was no difficulty in swallowing;
and the pain in the joints was less.

The next morning the Sultana was somewhat better. The relief to my mind
cannot be described: I will not attempt it. In my visit to the Sultana
that day I again urged upon her the advisability, if she wished to get
rid of her cough, of ceasing to smoke,--at any rate for a time. She
would not listen.

[Sidenote: The Innocent Plot.]

I explained to the Amîr my difficulty with Her Highness, and he
arranged a plan in which she could be beguiled into smoking less. I
weighed out a little less chloral that evening.

I visited the Amîr every two or three hours during the day, examining
his condition. He still had some pain, though vastly less than he had
had, and the cough was better.

At two in the morning I was sent for by the Sultana. She detailed to
me the whole of the innocent plot that had been arranged to draw her
from the chillim, and laughed at me for thinking she could be so easily

I concluded there were certain in the Amîr’s court who brought minute
details of what occurred there to the Harem Serai.

The Sultana did not seem angry, for she ordered to be brought for me a
present of Cashmere shawls, embroidery, and furs.

The Amîr that day had some burning pain in the hand and foot, but it
yielded to treatment, and he was quite bright in the evening, laughing
heartily several times. Musicians and dancing girls were sent for and
many of the chief Officials visited the Palace. His Highness did not
sleep well that night.

The next day--the fifth of my attendance--the Amîr felt better, there
was very little pain, and the cough was less. He could not sleep,
however; and in the afternoon there was a return of pain in the knee.

Meanwhile I was nearly worn out with want of sleep and anxiety. The
Amîr was a good patient, considering that he was an Oriental King. He
would take what medicine and food I advised, but I could not regulate
such matters as the number of visitors he should receive, nor even such
a thing as the admission of musicians.

The Sultana, on the other hand, was anything but a good patient. She
would not do as I advised, and she wished me to give her just what
medicines she thought best.

Added to all this, I was greatly embarrassed and annoyed by the
Hindustani Interpreter, whom I did not trust. He was always at the
Court; and he constantly interrupted the Armenian before the Amîr, and
corrected him when there was no need. I told him to “Chûp!”--“shut
up”--once or twice, but it was not enough, and the fifth night I called
him into my room, and in a low voice told him--I admit, harshly--that I
did not need either his corrections or interference: that the Armenian
was my Interpreter; and that he could hold his tongue till he was
called upon to speak.

That night His Highness was restless, and in the morning (Sunday) to
my amazement he said he would take no more European medicine! I was
aghast! He was much better. What had displeased him? But I was worn
out, and I went to my room and lay on the bed in my clothes--I had
never taken them off--and went sound asleep.

By-and-bye I was aroused; the Sultana had sent for me as soon as she
had awakened from the sleeping-draught.

The Armenian told her that His Highness had ceased taking European
medicine. She was astonished and alarmed, and at once wrote a letter
to the Amîr. She asked him what it all meant--she read the letter to
me--asked whether he were a King or a boy. At one time he said the
English Doctor was all that was wise and learned, and the next he
ceased taking his medicine: was he going back to the Hakims who had
killed his father and his father’s father! Why was this?

The answer from the Amîr arrived: the Sultana read it to me.

[Sidenote: The Sultana’s Letter: the Answer.]

His Highness said he was a King and no boy; but he added that there
was quarrelling between two Interpreters and he feared there would
be a mistranslation and that he should suffer. For this reason he
considered it better that he should cease taking European medicine for
the present. He was not angry with the English Doctor: on the contrary,
he realized the benefit he had received from his treatment, and would
resume his medicine when the suitable time arrived.

That night Malek, the Page, came to me. He said that the Hindustani
had crept to the Amîr in the morning, and had whispered this story: He
had implored me to give _good_ medicine to the Amîr: and that at once
I had wished to kick and strike him; that I was giving His Highness
alcohol in all his medicines, and it was this that lulled the pain,
though it would afterwards make him worse: that he had heard me say I
had only this one medicine that could affect His Highness!

I could not find it in my heart to blame the Amîr. Wearied out
with months of suffering, he lacked the keen judgment that is his
characteristic. Nevertheless, in a matter of such vast importance, the
fact, that _any_ condition could place one at the mercy of an obscure
intriguing Hindustani, gave such a shock to my confidence that I never
entirely recovered it while I was in the service of the Amîr. Once in
a lifetime was enough for such an experience as I had been through;
for had the illness of either Amîr or Sultana terminated fatally,
while they were under my care, _my_ fate would have been sufficiently

I was to visit His Highness daily, although he was under the care of
the Hakims. His manner to me was never so kind as now. I examined his
condition as before, and he described to me the treatment the Hakims
were subjecting him to.

They had no specific medicine, but administered drugs that produced
frequent and copious alvine evacuations. I said one day--in my
anxiety--that I feared they were, in His Highness’s feeble condition,
overdoing this line of treatment. His Highness rebuked me and said,

“When I am under the care of Hakims, I do as Hakims say; when under
your care, as you say.”

I continued attending the Sultana. She was much better and was very
kind. She read poetry to me, and commenced teaching me to talk Persian.
One day she said in Persian,

“Say this ----” and she repeated some sentence.

In my weariness, for it was in the middle of the night, I mechanically
repeated after her, “Say this ----” and I gave the sentence. At once
the Page boys and the girls behind the curtains burst out laughing.

As we came away I said to the Armenian, “Why were you so sulky

He had sat very glum in the Harem Serai. He said--

“Sir, you European, and, perhaps, no harm come for you--but for _me_,
Amîr Sahib blow me from gun if Her Highness laugh while I there.”

I was considerably taken aback.

Meanwhile, I was working down the chloral: I had got fifteen grains
less; but I couldn’t stop the chillim.

There was no longer any necessity for me to live in His Highness’s
Pavilion, and he gave orders for quarters to be prepared for me in the
Prince’s quadrangle near by, so that I could be on the spot in case of

The room was curtained and carpeted, and wood for the fire provided.
My servants came to wait upon me. An arm-chair of His Highness’s was
sent, a table, and candelabra. My friend, Shere Ali, came to see me
frequently; and the Page boys at all hours. I visited the Amîr twice a
day. Sometimes, he invited me to sit on the very couch he was lying on,
and he told me many interesting stories of his adventures in Russia.

For a few days His Highness continued about the same. The albumen had
nearly cleared away (sp. gr. 1012), though crystals of lithic acid were
deposited, and occasional tube casts could be seen.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Relapse.]

A day or two afterwards, His Highness had a return of pain, and when
I went to see him he said that he felt weaker, and admitted that the
Hakims had overdone the form of treatment I spoke of.

The next day he was worse: the pains were more severe; he had not
slept, and he told me he had had shivering and fever in the night.

The day after, the albumenuria returned, to the extent, roughly, of a
twelfth in the morning, and later in the day a fifth (sp. gr. 1016).
The left ankle commenced swelling at five p.m., the pulse was 100 and
weak; Tr. 97·2.

Out of doors it was very cold. The snow had commenced, and it was
freezing hard.




    Cogitations concerning the Hindustani Interpreter: colloid and
    crystalloid: the Armenian’s comments. Cogitations concerning the
    position: the engineers’ comments. The Amîr as a host: the Sultana
    as hostess. The Amîr’s photograph. The Sultana’s name. Sirdar, the
    girl-boy. The sleeping draught. The tea cup and the thermometer.
    The release from a dangerous position. The Christmas dinner:
    the guests: the festive board: the menu: the wine: music. The
    Amîr’s fainting attack: the remedy: effect on the physician: the
    substituted remedy: further effect on the physician; the Amîr’s
    prescription. The Amîr’s alarming nervous symptoms. Hospital cases.
    Duties of the Princes Habibullah and Nasrullah.

[Sidenote: Concerning the Hindustani.]

I thought of the Hindustani, and gnashed upon him: for the Hakims had
done much evil already, and I thought they would surely complete their

“He has allowed his petty spite to place the life of the Amîr in
danger,” thought I; “to say nothing of my life and that of the two
Europeans here.”

Mr. Pyne had fortunately been able at this time to obtain leave, and
had departed for India with an order for more machinery.

The idea occurred to me in a colloidal form that perhaps I ought to
destroy this Hindustani gnat. I say “colloidal,” for I doubt if the
idea would ever have crystallized into action. When one has been long
trained in the art of saving life, killing does not come readily. I
fancy, however, I must have expressed the idea aloud, for the Armenian

“Sir, you not kill it. You big man, he very small man. Your wish, you
can shoot Commander-in-Chief or Dabier-ul-Mulk; you not kill two pice
Hindustani--dog’s son. Other small man catch it and kill it for you.”

The employment of assassins, however, did not appeal to my imagination
as a suitable line of action, and I determined to await the course of

For some little time afterwards, if I heard much commotion or bustle
outside, I said to myself,

“The hour has come. The Amîr has joined his fathers; now for the last

Then, again, I thought this over. What was the good of fighting.
Granted that my revolver gave me six lives--why should I take six
lives? It would not save my own. And, query again: Was my life worth
six others? I rode to the workshops and discussed the matter with the
engineers, Stewart and Myddleton. They were good fellows; but they did
not agree with me. They said they should make a fight for it; that they
were worth a good deal more than six Afghans. Anyway, they did not
mean to sit down and wait for their throats to be cut like a couple of

This _did_ rather appeal to my imagination. There was the fierce
excitement and delight of battling for one’s life, in place of the
sickening emotion of waiting to be murdered. I determined, therefore,
to waive the point as to whether my life were worth six others, and
discuss it afterwards if we escaped, which, by the way, I did not think
very likely. I did not so much mind the idea of a bullet through the
brain or heart--it would be a momentary emotion; but a bayonet stab--it
does not kill at once; and a cut throat I always had a horror of: I
have seen so many.

Every night a dinner in European style was brought me, and one day
His Highness asked me if I liked fruit. Forthwith, two large trays
were brought every night: one of fresh fruit--sweet lemons, grapes,
pomegranates, and apples; and one of dried fruits and nuts, far more
than any one person could eat; and my servants had the benefit.

[Sidenote: The Sultana as a Hostess.]

I continued attending the Sultana. She showed me her crowns: they were
heavy, of beaten gold, worked in intricate designs, and lined with
velvet. One had ostrich plumes on it, another had common artificial
flowers tucked in round the top. I suggested that flowers were
unsuitable on a crown, and Her Highness tore them out. She showed me
her hats and bonnets, handing them to me under the curtain. Most of
them were English, of an old-fashioned shape. I said they were scarcely
fit for a Queen, but she said that the Amîr liked to see her wear them.
One was a fur cap--seal, I think--trimmed with a sable tail. It was
very pretty, but artificial flowers had been added. I said that flowers
grew in the summer and fur was worn in the winter, perhaps it would
look better without the flowers. Her Highness removed them at once. She
showed me a photograph album: it contained a few photographs: among
them was a copy of a painting of Queen Catherine of Russia. It was a
very beautiful face, and the Sultana spoke in admiration of the Queen.

Her Highness asked me to choose a photograph and she would give it me.
I had noticed hanging on the wall of the room a photograph, framed in
wood, of His Highness the Amîr. I said that as I had none of my Royal
Master I should like that one, if Her Highness could spare it. At once
it was taken down by one of the Page boys and handed to me.

The Sultana asked me if I knew the names of the Princes, the sons of
the Amîr. When I had repeated them she asked me if I knew her own name.
I had imagined it was not correct for anyone, not of the family, to
know a lady’s name. I therefore told Her Highness that, before me, she
was spoken of as “the Illustrious Lady.” She, however, told me at once
that her name was Halima, so that my prevarication was unnecessary.

She showed me a star and a sword His Highness the Amîr had given her.
The Amîr was away fighting, and a rebellion arose in Kabul; the young
Sultana at once issued from the Harem, veiled, took command of the
troops in Kabul, and quelled the rebellion.

The messenger Her Highness sent when she called me was apparently a
lad of fifteen or sixteen, called Sirdar. I was informed that it was
not a boy but a girl. She was dressed in trousers, tunic, and turban,
and considered herself, as indeed did other people, a man. It seemed
a little odd to me at first when she came to my room in the middle of
the night to call me to attend the Sultana, and coolly sat on the couch
while I dressed. I gave her a pair of braces. She had to be on duty
night and day, and was worn-looking from insufficient sleep, and she
threatened to box my ears if I did not increase the dose of chloral I
was giving the Sultana: I had worked it down to forty grains.

I told her I was afraid to increase the dose, as the medicine was
a deadly poison, and that its prolonged use in large doses was
productive of considerable harm.

The Sultana, not knowing the danger of the medicine, had learnt the
habit from the Hindustani medical attendant, who was my predecessor.
This man had managed, when he had acquired considerable wealth,
to escape from the country. The Amîr told me he was an utter
scoundrel:--which is possible.

The Sultana usually sent for me as soon as she woke, about one or
two o’clock in the early morning, for the chloral apparently did not
procure her more than four or five hours’ sleep.

[Sidenote: The Tea-cup and the Thermometer.]

One night, after having as usual handed her the clinical thermometer,
I found, to my horror, that the indicator marked a temperature of over
106 degrees Fahr.!

I at once asked Her Highness to allow me to examine the pulse. She
passed her hand under the curtain. It was cool, and the pulse was
steady--seventy beats a minute. There could be no fever with that
pulse. I looked at the Armenian, and he pointed silently to the tea cup
by my side. I heard some smothered laughter behind the curtain, and the
truth flashed upon me. The thermometer had been dipped for a moment in
the hot tea--hence 106 degrees Fahr.

Concerning the sleeping draught, Her Highness the Sultana never
spoke to me, but Sirdar, her messenger, urged upon me frequently the
necessity of increasing the dose, saying that Her Highness could not
sleep, and was becoming angry with me. I refused to increase the dose
of chloral, and endeavoured to substitute other soporifics.

The result was, that after about a fortnight Her Highness refused
European medical treatment. So far from worrying me, this was an
absolute relief to my mind; for the position was not without its

A week after this came Christmas day. I gave instructions to the Chief
Cook, and then invited Messrs. Stewart and Myddleton to dine with me in
my rooms at the Palace.

It was a clear sunny day; bitterly cold, with a hard frost. My guests
arrived on horseback about six p.m., their servants bringing knives,
forks, and plates, cigars, and a bottle of whisky. I hadn’t such a
thing as whisky, but I produced with great pride a quart bottle of
champagne that I had found in the medical stores, and which I had the
Amîr’s permission to use.

We sat down to dinner. My brass candelabra, each with three candles,
lit up the festive board: a wood fire blazing on the hearth threw a
warm glow over the room: the white walls cast back the light; and the
cosy room, with crimson curtains drawn over door and windows, made us
almost forget Afghanistan, and we lost, if only for a time, the feeling
of insecurity in which we were living.

We had soup, tinned salmon, partridges, roast mutton, anchovy toast,
plum pudding all blazing, and fruit. Then came the champagne. With
subdued but proud excitement we cut the wire and waited for the cork to
pop--it did not pop. We eased it a little with our thumb, and waited.
We patted the bottle gently; then shook it--and still waited. The
Armenian, standing by, smiled.

“You might bring a corkscrew,” I said, carelessly; “the cork is
evidently hard.”

He produced a corkscrew with suspicious readiness, and I proceeded
to carefully insert it. Oh, yes, the cork came out easily enough. It
was not the fault of the cork. But the champagne!--Did you ever taste
champagne that hadn’t any fizz in it? It is beastly.

“What’s wrong with it?” I asked the Armenian, when he had tasted it.

“No-thing, Sir!” he said. “He in Hospital ’leven years, all his
strength gone away.”

We “passed” the champagne; whisky was good enough for us.

I told the Armenian that it was only blue-blooded Dukes like himself
who could drink flat champagne.

“Sir, he is not flat; very good sherbet he is; I like him.”

But after he had been to England he wouldn’t drink champagne that had
been eleven years in the Hospital.

After dinner Myddleton sang with great taste, and in a sweet tenor
voice, some old English ballads--“The Thorn,” “The Anchor’s Weighed,”
and a Christmas carol; Stewart occasionally putting in a seconds. I
enjoyed it immensely: it was such a treat to hear music again. I did
not sing myself, for some of my servants were Afghans and they were in
the room: I should have lowered myself in their eyes if I had sung; my
guests, however, were indifferent to the opinion of the Afghans.

About midnight they departed, and rode back, escorted by a couple of
soldiers, to their rooms at the workshops.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Fainting Attack.]

Two days after this His Highness had a fainting attack; at least he
described it as such to me. He said he had been so ill that it had
been necessary to give him wine to restore his senses. He desired me
to examine the wine and ascertain if it were a suitable stimulant for
him. A bottle was handed to me and I poured some out into a wine-glass.
It was a clear amber-coloured liquid--may be Chablis, I thought. I was
about to drink it, when His Highness said,

“Khubar dar!”--“Take care, it is strong;” and he suggested my adding
some sherbet.

“Chablis and sherbet!” I thought; “No, I am not a Mahomedan,” and I
smiled and tossed it off.

Sword of Damocles! It was liquid fire! I swallowed and swallowed and
blinked and gasped.

As expressing a rapid succession of complicated emotions my face must
have been a study, for the Amîr leant back on his pillows and roared
with laughter. As soon as I could get my breath I coughed out that it
was a very bad wine and not at all suitable for His Highness. It was
Vodki, I believe, or a Russian spirit of some sort--neat.

I went on to say that for the complaint His Highness was suffering
from, every kind of wine was more or less harmful; but that, if
faintness rendered it necessary, the best he could drink would be good
old whisky. I knew that Pyne had brought a supply to Kabul, and when he
went away on leave, he had let Stewart and Myddleton have the residue.
I therefore rode off to the shops to beg a bottle. When I returned to
the Palace, I placed it before His Highness, and explained how it
should be taken:--One ounce of whisky to two of water, or, in extreme
cases, in equal quantities. His Highness desired me to show him how
to take it. It was the first and only “medicine” the Amîr asked me to
taste before him. I poured out an ounce, added two ounces of water, and
drank it. Then I sat down.

[Sidenote: Effect on the Physician.]

Presently, I began to feel a little giddy; not that I was
uncomfortable--on the contrary; and it struck me what a good thing
it would be to tell the Amîr an amusing story that I had suddenly
thought of. I remembered, however, in time that he did not understand
English, and thought that probably the point would be lost, or at any
rate blunted, if it had to first penetrate an Interpreter’s head. And
then it occurred to me that Vodki, or whatever the Russian abomination
was, followed by a whisky peg, was not a good thing for a Physician
to drink, fasting. I said to His Highness, that being unaccustomed to
Shrâb (alcohol), the doses I had taken were beginning, I was afraid, to
affect my wits: would he allow me to withdraw.

“Be not disturbed,” His Highness said. “I can cure you.”

He ordered a cup of strong tea, with a lemon squeezed in it, and
directed me to drink it at once. It certainly did clear my head in a
wonderful way. By-and-bye, I got away to my room and went to sleep in
the arm-chair.

The Amîr approved of the whisky, and requested me to write at once to
Mr. Pyne to order three casks. In due time they arrived.

A day or two afterwards the Amîr had an alarming head symptom. He
described his feelings when I went to see him. There was a sort of aura
passing from the feet to the head, buzzing in the ears, headache, and a
feeling of great heaviness in the head. I was afraid the symptoms might
be the forerunners of an apoplectic, or some nervous seizure. Happily,
however, the head symptoms gradually subsided, and two days afterwards
the pain had returned to the limbs.

Meanwhile, I had got to work again at the Hospital. The severer cases
had accumulated considerably, and I had several surgical operations to
do. One was a Stone operation on a small boy, which interested Prince
Habibullah very much. The boy got well very quickly, and I took him,
with a Workshop accident case that had recovered, to the Durbar that
the Prince was holding in the Salaam Khana.

During the Amîr’s illness, Prince Habibullah had relieved His Highness
of a great deal of Governmental work. Sitting for hours nearly every
day, he held Durbars and gave decisions in cases of dispute. He was the
Chief Civil Magistrate of the town. Minor cases were decided by the
“Kôtwal,” or Chief of the Military Police of Kabul.

In addition to these Civil Magistracies there is an Ecclesiastical
Court, presided over by the Chief Priest, the “Khân-i-Mullah Khan,” for
the Priests are those who are learned in the Mahomedan law. There is
always, however, the final right of appeal to the Sovereign: though I
have heard the Amîr himself apply to the Khân-i-Mullah for instruction
on certain points of law.

[Sidenote: Duties of the Princes.]

The duty of Prince Nasrullah was to superintend the management of
the Government offices, and the work of the numerous scribes and
secretaries--the Mirzas. Both Princes worked hard, and one met them in
all weathers, in the blazing sun, in the hissing icy winds, the heavy
snow fall, or the pouring rain, riding on their way from their houses
in the city to the Durbar Hall, or the Mirza’s offices, in the Erg
Palace. With their regular and daily attendance upon their duties, they
shamed many of the high officials of the Kingdom, and were a living and
daily lesson to the ordinary Afghan, whose motto is ever, “To-morrow,
or after to-morrow.”




    Hindustani intrigue: information from the British Agent: offer of
    assistance: measures for protection: further intrigue. The “Royal
    manner.” The two factions: Habibullah: Mahomed Omer. The question
    of succession. Return to the City House and English Society: divers
    discomforts: the cold of Kabul. The naked beggar boy. The old Kabul
    bridge. The question of “bleeding.” Disbanding of a Shiah regiment.
    Amîr’s advice to his sons. The oncoming spring: improvements in
    Amîr’s health. The Hindustani again: Sabbath: the Amîr’s decision.
    The Afghan noble as workshop superintendent. New Year sports. The
    grand stand: the crowd: refreshments. Horse-racing: collisions.
    Tent pegging and its dangers. Lemon slicing. The greater skill
    of gentlemen. Displays of horsemanship. Amîr’s absence from the
    sports: the result. The Naû Rôz levee. Salaam to the Sultana.
    Amîr in the Salaam Khana: reception of the Maleks and merchants:
    presents. The Princes standing before the Amîr. Reception of the
    English engineers: the “White-beard:” his age: the Amîr’s surprise.

[Sidenote: Hindustani Intrigue.]

The interesting Hindustani whom I have designated the “Gnat,” and who,
by the way, was giving lessons in English to Prince Habibullah, began
to spread reports in the bazaars concerning my personal character. As,
however, I had done nothing to reproach myself with, I did not bother
my head about the matter, until one day the Secretary of the British
Agent, that highly-educated Mahomedan I have spoken of, called upon me
and told me the nature of the rumours. Then I was more than a little
annoyed. It was so abominable. Only the vile mind of this creature
could have conceived the indignity of charging me--not openly, but by
a whispered word here and there--with impurity. What could I do? To
attempt to defend myself against a charge that was not formulated, that
only lived, like the typhus poison, in filthy corners--invisible--was
to accuse myself.

The Agent’s Secretary very kindly enquired whether there were anything
he could do that could in any way give the lie to the rumours.

So far as I could see, the utmost that could be done was to refuse
absolutely to allow the man to interpret or translate for me on any
occasion whatsoever. I said as much to the Agent’s Secretary, and he
advised me to write at once to the Amîr and inform him of my decision.

I therefore wrote to His Highness, saying I did not trust the
man--though of course I had nothing very definite to accuse him of; and
I ended my letter by saying that rather than have this man interpret
for me before His Highness, I would ask His Highness’ permission to
leave his service.

Lest the Amîr might think I had been instigated to write this letter by
the Armenian, I asked the Agent’s Secretary to translate it for me. His
Highness did not answer my letter in writing, but whenever I was called
before him the Hindustani was not there.

Events in after years, however, showed me that the Amîr _did_ look upon
the matter as a quarrel between two Interpreters, an effort on the part
of each of them to trip the other up. He never knew the discomfort and
mental distress that I was compelled to suffer.

The Hindustani then made another move. How he worked it I do not know,
but some weeks afterwards I received a letter from Her Highness the
Sultana in which she desired me to again attend her. I was, however,
to bring the Hindustani to interpret. I at once wrote to Her Highness
and refused; sending also a letter to the Amîr acquainting him with the
facts of the case. His Highness answered that I might be accompanied by
another Interpreter if I wished. I informed the Sultana of the Amîr’s
decision, but, as might be expected, she being a woman, I was not sent
for--much to my relief.

For some weeks His Highness appeared about the same. He was better
for a day or two, then worse again. I visited him frequently, though
I did not prescribe for him. He sent, however, to Bombay for certain
medicines I thought suitable for his case.

One day, while I was there, little Prince Mahomed Omer came to salaam
his father, and the Amîr was much amused at the authoritative way the
Prince--he was not yet two--ordered about the little boys by whom he
was surrounded. He frightened one of them so much that the child began
to cry. The Amîr laughed, and gave the Prince an orange.

“The youngster has the manner of a King,” said the Amîr.

One can only guess what the future may bring forth. The past has shown
us that when the great Amîr, Dôst Mahomed, departed from this world
he deputed a younger son, Shere Ali, to succeed him, and this because
he was, on both mother and father’s side, of Royal descent. The elder
sons, not so happy, were passed over. The successes and reverses of
Shere Ali, in his contests with his brothers, is an old story.

So far as I know, Amîr Abdurrahman has never openly said whom he would
wish to succeed him. I think, however, there are many indications
leading one to infer that if His Highness continue to reign for another
ten years, Prince Mahomed Omer will be looked upon as the heir.

[Sidenote: The Two Factions.]

There are in Kabul at the present time two distinct and opposing
factions: that of the Sultana for her son’s sake, and that of Prince

Much as I desired to avoid being drawn into intrigue or any appearance
of being attached to either party--for the matter was of no possible
interest to me--I know I was looked upon as belonging to the Sultana’s
party, chiefly, I believe, because of my dislike to the Hindustani
“Gnat,” who belonged to the opposing faction. Nevertheless, Prince
Habibullah was always most courteous and kind.

The Sultana had a very powerful following. She is the “favourite”
wife, and is most liberal and generous to those with whom she comes in
contact. She is of the same blood as the Amîr, and is not unlike him in
decision and strength of character.

Habibullah is a man of ability, kindly and genial, but his mother was
the handmaiden to one of the Queens (daughter of the Mîr of Badakshan),
who, having no children, said, “Go in unto my maid, that I may have
children by her.” Habibullah cannot sit in the presence of this Queen
without permission: a fact which weighs with Afghan people.

I do not know what line the Indian Government would take; but the
probabilities are that when the eventful moment arrives the matter
will be decided before ever the British could reach Kabul. Judging by
the past, I imagine the principals of one party or other would, before
many days were over, be in jail, or otherwise _hors de combat_.

Should the Amîr live till the little Prince attain adult age and the
Prince fulfil the promise of his childhood, I imagine he would hold
the throne alone. He is of the type of his father. Habibullah, with
the moral support of an English Resident ostensibly keeping in the
background, would, I take it, rule wisely. A Resident, I think, would
not need a large escort, for a man of tact would be the friend, not the
rival, of the King; and the Afghans are now accustomed to the presence
of Feringhis in their midst. However, I am talking of things that do
not concern me.

At the end of January I asked permission to move from my quarters
in the Palace and return to my house in the city. I saw more of the
English engineers, Stewart and Myddleton, at this time, and it was
infinitely refreshing to live again in an atmosphere of wholesome
English ideas, rather than breathe the air of an Oriental Court reeking
with intrigue.

[Sidenote: Divers Discomforts.]

Though I had my house to myself, and was not liable to be intruded upon
at all hours of the day by the Page boys and Chamberlains, there were,
nevertheless, I found, certain bodily discomforts and inconveniences to
undergo, arising chiefly from the intense cold. Owing to the numerous
doors and windows in the house, there was not a room that we could keep
the bitter wind out of. I had been called to the Palace in the early
winter, and had only a small stock of wood in my house. This was soon
gone, and now wood was scarce and hard to get, for the Royal workshops
had the first claim. The only way, therefore, to keep warm was to sit
crouched on the floor close up to the charcoal sandali, and draw the
quilt up to one’s chin, wearing, at the same time, postîn, overcoat,
and hat. After several hours this becomes monotonous. In order to hold
a book and read, or at meal times to use one’s knife and fork, it was
necessary to protect the hands with thick woollen gloves. One day, in
February, the weather struck me as being warmer than usual, and I found
the temperature in my sitting-room had gone up to 20 degrees Fahr. This
was not so bad, and my thermometer would register it; but when it was
really cold, I was not able to find what the temperature was, for the
mercury shrank into the bulb.

At dinner time it is exceedingly inconvenient to find you can neither
break nor cut your bread: and to be obliged to break up your drinking
water with a hammer is irritating. There is, I have heard, a large
trade in frozen meat between England and New Zealand, and in this
country I have eaten the erstwhile frozen sheep with great enjoyment.
In Kabul it was not so. The joint came smoking from the fire, brought
in over a pan of charcoal, but the centre, near the bone, was icy and
raw: this was not nice. Frozen pickles are useless: and the same may
be said of frozen ink: my letters, therefore, were written in pencil.
Why the damson jam should not have advanced beyond the glutinous stage
of freezing, I do not know, but it never froze solid. This worried
me at the time: there seemed something unnatural about it. I dislike
being hurried, and to be obliged to drink my morning cup of cocoa at
once to prevent it freezing, almost made me regret my rooms at the
Palace--Pages, atmosphere of intrigue and all: but I overcame this

Going to bed was a function; and I dressed carefully for the purpose.
Over the woollens came a tennis coat and a sheepskin waistcoat; there
were two pairs of wool socks, a dressing-gown, a pair of gloves, and a
hat. The cotton wool mattress was laid on the earth-beaten floor: it
was warmer than a charpoy--but harder. A buffalo rug, a fox-skin rug,
and a quilt finished the arrangements. One of the soldiers of the guard
had to come and put my candle out when the performance was over.

I do not know how many people died of cold, but there were a good many
among the poorest. Going to the Hospital I used often to see a beggar
boy of about fourteen lying naked on the snow monotonously droning,

“Az baraï Khuda, yak ticca nân bidde!”--“For the sake of God, one piece
of bread give me!”

I was told he had gone about naked all his life. I missed him one day,
and thought he must be frozen to death; but, no, I saw him again a year
or two afterwards. Though he lay on the snow, he always chose a place
sheltered from the wind, and where the sun was shining brightly.

There was an unusually heavy snowfall that winter, and the Amîr gave
orders to remove the old brick bridge over the Kabul river. The bridge
was very solidly built, and was said to be two hundred years old. It
was situated below the mountain gorge, and just outside the workshops.
His Highness considered that when the snows were melting, the great
volume of water checked at the bridge piers would overflow the
workshops and swamp part of the town. Future events proved the accuracy
of the Amîr’s prognostication.

In the workshops the engineers had the greatest trouble to keep the
steam up. Dry wood could not be got, and with wet wood the fires could
not be kept going. The pipes carrying the water supply to the boiler
were constantly freezing solid, and at last work with steam machinery
came to a standstill.

My visits to the Amîr continued. His manner was exceedingly kind. He
described his symptoms daily, and frequently spoke of again placing
himself under my care. He promised me leave of absence, and said many
other things that were very pleasant to hear.

[Sidenote: The Question of “Bleeding.”]

The Hakims, however, bled him again and again, and his recovery was
exceedingly tedious. I explained to His Highness how harmful bleeding
was in Gout, and advised him not to be bled again: His Highness was
displeased with me. Some days afterwards, however, he informed me that
the Indian, English, and Russian newspapers, in commenting upon his
case, had expressed views in regard to bleeding in harmony with mine.
He has been bled many times since then.

Towards the end of February the cold began to break. I did not see
any skating during the winter, so that as Kabul is the capital of the
country, I doubt if this is a sport among the Afghans. Not realizing
that cold in that country is so intense, I had left my skates in
England, otherwise I would have astonished the natives. I have no doubt
about that, although I cannot skate.

On the 1st of March the Amîr disbanded a regiment of Shiah Mahomedans:
he himself is a Sûnni. This created a good deal of sensation in Kabul
at the time, for there is one part of the town, Chindawal, devoted to
Shiahs, though the majority of Afghans are Sûnnis.

Two days afterwards I heard there was some trouble at the Palace. I do
not know all the details, for, as I said, news from the Palace filters
out slowly and imperfectly. The Amîr was depressed, I take it, by his
long and tedious illness, for he called his sons to him and told them
that he had only some ten years to live; and that in all probability
neither Habibullah nor any other of his sons would succeed him.
Ishak, on the one hand, and Ayoub on the other, were candidates for
the Throne, and it behoved the Princes, his sons, to be amicable one
towards the other: a bundle of branches bound together was strong, but
taken separately they could be easily broken.

The sun began to grow powerful, and the snow melted rapidly. Fires and
the sandali became unnecessary; one had only to sit in the sun if one
felt the cold.

On March the 10th it was comparatively warm. As it was my birthday, I
went in the afternoon to the Palace to visit the Amîr. His Highness was
at dinner. He sent me some grapes, and I sat in one of the side rooms,
or alcoves, and waited. After dinner I talked to His Highness. He told
me he was better, and could walk a little. He was not so thin as he had
been. After talking to me for some time, he ordered a beautiful little
Kataghani horse, brown with black points, to be brought from the
stables, and asked me to accept it.

[Sidenote: Sabbath: the Amîr’s Decision.]

Shortly after this, the interesting Hindustani Interpreter--the
Gnat--endeavoured to prejudice the two English engineers, Stewart and
Myddleton, in His Highness’s eyes. He reported to Sirdar Usuf Khan,
the Amîr’s uncle, who, nominally, superintended the workshops, that
the Englishmen, though Christians, did no work on Friday. He being the
only Interpreter they had, they rode to my house one evening to inform
me. I directed the Armenian to write to His Highness and explain that
the Engineers had given up _their_ Sabbath to His Highness’s service;
had His Highness any objection to their keeping the Mahomedan Sabbath
instead of their own.

The Amîr answered that he had not the slightest objection; and he wrote
to the Sirdar that it was folly to expect the men to work every day
in the week. The Sirdar was a courtly old gentleman, but in the Shops
there were constant frictions. He no more understood the nature of an
English workman than he understood Physiology or any other Science. I
think Sir Salter--then Mr.--Pyne was also somewhat of a puzzle to him.
Pyne has strong characteristics and decided views, and the Sirdar Sahib
had not the former, though he assumed the latter, and on a subject in
which he was but ill informed.

When the thaw commenced, the Engineers endeavoured to make up for time
lost during the frost by frequently working all night. There was a
certain amount of work to be got through by the Mahomedan New Year’s
Day, in order that a good show of arms and ammunition could be laid
before the Amîr.

The last day of the old year was a Friday, and the holidays began then.
At the foot of the Asmai mountains horse-racing and sports were held.
Crowds of spectators lined the road, and the Grand Stand was the grey,
old, rocky mountain: he had put on his holiday garb; all the lower
half was crowded with gaily-dressed Afghans, sitting or standing in
thousands in the blazing sun.

For the Princes and richer men tents were erected on any sufficiently
level rock, and the servants, lighting a wood fire near, served them
with tea, and cakes, and sweetmeats. For the poorer people there were
itinerant cake merchants, sweetmeat vendors, and the Sakabi, with his
water-skin and wooden cup; and for those who could afford it, there
was iced sherbet--lemon, orange, or rose, in tumblers. There were toy
sellers, too, with paper flags, whistles, and cheap walking-sticks from
India; these were bought by the crowds who thronged the streets on
their way to the mountain.

The horse-racing, over a course some five hundred yards in length, more
or less, according to the fancy of the riders, and on a hard road, was,
compared with what we call horse-racing, somewhat of a caricature.
There were no prizes and no starters: anybody could gallop up and down
the road who wished. As many did wish, and as there was no sort of
order and much reckless riding, collisions were frequent. Sometimes,
a horse and rider would be sent spinning. I do not know if there were
many breakages, I did not go and see: I concluded they would fetch
me if they wanted me. One considerable smash occurred just opposite
where I was, and the friends came and gathered up the fragments that
remained. They threw water in the face of the riding fragment, and he
presently recovered: the ridden fragment limped painfully away.

[Sidenote: Tent-pegging: Lemon Slicing.]

There was “tent-pegging,” or something in a sense equivalent. There was
no tent-peg, but a boy’s cap was put on the ground, and the soldiers
charged at it with lances. The owner of the cap was not distressed
mentally: his cap was fairly safe. The riders were very skilful in
scoring the ground near, but only one or two touched the cap, and then
a murmur went up from the spectators. The way the small Afghan boys
gathered near to see the sport was rather horrifying: I fully expected
to see one skewered: however, it was not so written in the book of Fate.

There was also “lemon-slicing.” A lemon was stuck on the end of a rod,
which was planted upright in the ground. The soldiers dashed up one
after another, flourishing their sabres, and looking very fierce and
terrible; but they did not often hurt the lemon.

Occasionally, some man of position would join in. These were, as a
rule, more skilful with both lance and sword than the soldiers were:
possibly, they devoted more time to practice. My Turkestan friend,
the Mirza Abdur Rashid, rode in: he was not at all unskilful with the
lance. I saw, though not on this occasion, the Sirdar Abdul Kudus Khan,
son of the Amîr’s cousin, and Naim Khan, the Courtier, tent-pegging
and shooting at a mark while going full gallop: they were exceedingly

My small friend, Mahomed Omer, son of the Deputy Commander-in-Chief,
rode in on a little white Arab. He was about thirteen, but he must have
practised considerably, for he picked up the cap on his lance the first

The small boy who accompanied Prince Nasrullah on his visit to England
this year, was the younger brother of Mahomed Omer. He had grown so,
that I did not recognize him on the platform at Victoria, when the
Prince arrived, until he came up and spoke to me.

There were displays of horsemanship: standing on the saddle and
holding on to the reins, with the horse at full gallop; picking up a
handkerchief from the ground while at a gallop, and so on: however,
there was nothing but what I had seen done in England, and with greater
skill. I had imagined that the Afghans were born riders, skilful
swordsmen, and deadly shots; but whatever the hillmen, as a class, may
be, the soldiers certainly are not remarkable.

The Princes were at the “tomasha,” but His Highness the Amîr was,
of course, unable to honour the sports by his presence. I was told,
indeed, that he now very rarely does so; and the result has been that
the sports have fallen off considerably.

[Sidenote: New Year Congratulations.]

The next day was “Naû Roz,” or the New Year’s Day. I was informed that
His Highness would be able to receive me at three p.m. In the morning,
therefore, I rode to the Babur Badshah Gardens to salaam the Sultana,
who was staying in the Bungalow there. On the way I met Mahomed Omer
and complimented him on his skill with the lance. He is a bright
little fellow, and he seemed greatly pleased at being complimented. He
was gorgeous in scarlet and gold, and was at the head of a troop of
cavalry, in his exalted post of “Commander-in-Chief” to Prince Mahomed

At the gardens we had tea and cigarettes in a tent while our
congratulations were taken in to the Sultana. I did not, of course, see
Her Highness, and she sent the New Year greetings by her messenger,
“Sirdar”--the girl-boy.

By the time we had returned to Kabul it was three o’clock, and I rode
on to the Palace.

When I arrived His Highness was being conveyed in a palanquin to the
Salaam Khana, where there were arranged for his inspection, rifles,
sabres, cartridges, sword-sticks, rupees, and other productions of the

His Highness was kind enough to stop and enquire how I was. He
evidently remembered--as I did--that at the last big reception of this
kind _I_ had been the invalid, for he asked if I had had any return of
the illness. I was happy to tell him I was well, and that my greatest
wish was that he might soon be the same. While His Highness was
speaking. Col. Attaullah Khan, the British Agent, came and stood near
me; by the side of such a splendid man I felt a stripling, for I am but
a meagre six feet with my boots on.

When the inspection of arms was over, His Highness, followed by the
Princes and the Courtiers, entered the Salaam Khana and took his seat
on the couch in one of the end rooms. He kindly allowed me to be
seated, though everyone else stood, and taking some cigars from a box
he sent them to me by a Page boy, and invited me to smoke.

Presently, the Maleks, and Merchants, and others, who wished to make
New Year’s offerings, were admitted. They stood just inside the
doorway, and round the lower end of the room. The Court attendants took
the presents and laid them on the ground in front of the Amîr.

There were rolls of silks and satins; lamps, musical-boxes, Russian
boots, vases, Japanese cabinets, sugar, sweets, inexpensive
writing-cases, pocket-knives, flowers, and in the midst of the medley I
noticed a pair of trouser stretchers.

His Highness did not seem very much interested in the presents, though
Prince Habibullah occasionally took up an article and examined it.

When the offering of presents was completed, chairs were brought for
the Princes and they sat down. Why I should have been allowed to sit
while the Princes stood, I do not know, unless it were, as I sometimes
thought, that the Amîr wished to guard the Princes from the danger of
acquiring a too exalted notion of their own personal importance.

Prince Habibullah was always courteous, and struck me as having much
more _savoir vivre_ than Prince Nasrullah.

[Sidenote: “White-beard;” His Age.]

At five p.m. Messrs. Stewart and Myddleton were received by His
Highness. Chairs were placed for them and tea was brought. After the
usual polite salutations His Highness asked Stewart how old he was. The
question, no doubt, was suggested to the Amîr’s mind by the fact that
Stewart’s hair and beard were silvery white. Afghans, when their hair
turns grey, almost invariably, unless they are Priests, dye it black
or red. His Highness’s hair and beard were very grey when he was ill,
but were blue-black afterwards, and I could not help connecting this
remarkable fact with the many bottles of hair-dye I saw in the stores.

His Highness was surprised to hear that Stewart was only forty-eight.
He laughed when he heard it, and said he thought he must be a hundred.

After we had drunk tea permission was given us to withdraw, and we rode
home. During the reception the Armenian had translated. Waiting outside
and expecting to be sent for, was the Hindustani, but though Prince
Habibullah asked where he was, no one answered.




    Spring clothing: a grateful Afghan. Poison bowls. The dreadful
    book. A haunted house: the skeleton in the garden. Increase of
    patients. Called to the Palace: Amîr’s costume: flowers: Amîr’s
    generous proposal. Troubles of a Ruler: Secretary in disgrace.
    Amîr’s plans for the future. Geologists in the service: their
    difficulties. Occidental _v._ Oriental. Mercantile commissions. The
    Armenian’s leave. Delay. The locusts. Prince Mahomed Omer and his
    Lâla. The Palace gardens. A military Durbar. Amîr’s thoughtfulness.
    A portrait. Amîr’s opinion of his people: education of his
    soldiers. The arrest: murder of the prisoner: the Amîr’s decision.
    Other portraits. Ramazàn. Rising of the river. The Îd Festival.
    The Physician’s plans: the Amîr’s comment. Prince Habibullah’s
    portrait: the Shaghassi’s criticism. Prince Nasrullah’s portrait:
    his remark.

The holidays lasted a week. The sports were continued at Asmai, and in
the evening fireworks were let off in the town.

Whatever the weather may be, postîns and winter clothing are never left
off till Naû Roz, and never continued afterwards. The weather, however,
in Afghanistan behaves more according to rule and is less eccentric
than in England. I became clothed in a tunic of camel’s hair and a
leather belt. Around the brow the awe-inspiring turban was wreathed in
many folds--heavy but picturesque and protecting. The camel-hair cloth
was given me by a grateful Afghan because I cut off his little son’s
toe. He also gave me two ancient China bowls. These were intelligent
articles, for if at any time food should be put into them containing
poison they would at once break themselves into a thousand pieces--at
least, so I was informed; I did not, however, put the bowls to the
inconvenience of exhibiting their power of discernment, for it seemed
better to keep them as they were than to take them home in a thousand

At this time I found that the Engineers had got a book, and I borrowed
it, having had nothing new to read for many months. The book was that
ancient and gruesome collection of stories called “The Night Side of
Nature.” The narratives in it were similar to those that the _Review
of Reviews_ laid before Seekers after Truth, under the title of “Real
Ghost Stories.”

[Sidenote: A Haunted House.]

It was a dreadful book. Read it alone in the haunted wing of a house,
and in a town full of the memory of murders and midnight assassins;
where in the dead silence of the night unaccountable noises force
themselves upon the startled ear; and see how you like it.

I knew my house was haunted, because I had been told so.

One evening, absorbed in reading, I became conscious that the windows
rattled, a door slammed, and suddenly, right over my head, there was a
sound as of a heavy body rolling rapidly along; and a horrible shriek
split the air. The awe-inspiring volume slipped from the nerveless
fingers (anatomically this is not accurate), and palpitating with a
wordless horror, I sat powerless. For a long minute all was still: then
the sound as of stealthy footsteps struck on the straining ear--on the
tympanic membrane as a matter of fact. The door moved slowly on its
creaking hinge, and--

“Kîst!” “who is it!” rang in my ears.

It was my own voice, hoarse and unrecognizable, uttering the cry. I
clutched the ready revolver and cocked it.

“Sahib! dead man, all is buried in garden. His bones me see.”

It was my Indian cook who brought the information. This, then, was the
cause of the unnatural manifestations. Doubtless, the house had been
the scene of a horrible murder, and the criminals had hastily hidden
the ghastly proof of their deed in the garden; but murder will out, and
the unrestful spirit of the victim was wandering around.

Now I had studied Forensic Medicine and had read Gaboriau. It behoved
me, therefore, to work out this crime, track the murderers, and bring
them to justice.

“Ustughonha biya inja,”--“Bring hither the bones,” I said.

I know the human bones, every ridge, furrow, and knob, from the fifth
Metatarsal to the Sphenoid. Many a night in the years gone by had I sat
poring over a bone, while the stars twinkled in the heavens--at least,
I expect they did; not that it matters.

The servant returned, and with horror and disgust depicted on his
swarthy face laid a small bone on the table in front of me.

“But where are the others? Bring the skull, man--the head.”

“Sahib, other me not see.”

With an eagle glance I pierced him, and he shrunk back.

“Drivelling idiot, son of uncleanness, scoundrel, whose heart is
blacker than his face--this is not a man’s bone. Bring me human bones.”

“Sahib, other me not got.”

“Get some, then, and at once;” and he fled from the room.

Was I to be trifled with in this way; to be made small and of no
account? I was prepared to unravel the mystery, and was I to be turned
aside by a servant--an Indian servant--a black Indian servant?

But I cooled down afterwards, and by-and-bye, when he came in to
enquire if I wanted anything, I said, No! he could go to bed.

In April, the weather was beautiful, sunny and bright, without being
too hot. The number of patients coming to the Hospital increased as
travelling became easier. I saw about a hundred and thirty cases daily.
Some came great distances--from Turkestan, Kandahar, Herat, and the
borders of Kaffristan.

[Sidenote: Called to the Palace.]

On the 5th of April, His Highness sent word that he wished to see me.
When I arrived at the Palace I found His Highness alone, but for one
Secretary and the Page boys. He looked much better and stronger than he
had done for a long time. He was attired in native costume, in a bright
coloured silk robe, a small white turban wound round a gold-embroidered
cap, and loose white Oriental pyjamas.

I stopped some distance from the couch and bowed: His Highness beckoned
me to a chair near him and enquired if I were well. Then he continued
reading a letter the Secretary had just written, and cigarettes were
brought me. It seemed a pity to smoke, for the air of the Palace was
sweet with the scent of freshly-cut flowers, hyacinths, wallflowers,
and narcissi.

Suddenly, His Highness looked up and asked me when I should like to
start for England: he said the weather would soon be hot and unsuitable
for travelling in India; and before long, storms at sea were to be

I replied that I was awaiting His Highness’s orders. He asked me how
long leave I should like; and when I said I left that entirely to him,
he enquired whether six months would be sufficient.

His Highness said also, that he would let me know before my return
in what part of the country he was to be found, whether in Herat,
Kandahar, Turkestan, or Kabul, so that I could join him. He desired me
to draw the plans of a house such as I should like to live in, and he
would build it for me.

If my wife, after I were married, wished to return with me, he
should be pleased; and should she after some months find the climate
uncongenial, his permission would be granted her to return to
England. Should she, however, prefer to remain in England, leave of
absence would be granted me every two years. His Highness also told
me many interesting things: among them the reason why Afghanistan is
poverty-stricken and powerless, and he sketched methods in which the
resources of the country might be developed if only his people had
sense enough to follow out his directions; but, as he said, there were
so few he could trust.

This very man before him, the Secretary, could not be trusted even to
write a letter correctly; and yet, he said, this man and his brother
were secretaries to Amîr Shere Ali; and more, they had the keeping of
the King’s Signet. Why, therefore, with such men in power, should not
the country have become weak, poverty-stricken, and on the verge of

[Sidenote: Geologists in the Service.]

One of his designs, he told me, was to again employ an English
geologist, and when the presence of valuable minerals was made known,
to open up roads and start mining operations.

His Highness’s words were words of wisdom: but looking back, as I do,
with a knowledge of the past, I am greatly in doubt as to whether
the nature of the Oriental will allow to any European geologist in
the Amîr’s service anything like a fair chance of success in his
endeavours. From the outset his good faith is doubted. I heard from
Captain Griesbach, C.I.E., how hampered he had been on every hand; how
impossible it was made for him to do any useful work; for the whisper
had been spread--even I heard it--that he carried a note-book, and if
he found a mineral of value it was not the Amîr to whom the fact was
reported, but the British Government. Disgusted that his efforts should
be so curtailed and his powers made useless, the Captain left the

The next geologist who entered the service was Mr. Arthur Collins,
F.G.S., who was recommended to the Amîr’s Agent by the Home Office.
His experiences were very similar to those of Captain Griesbach. He
was followed about rigorously by a guard, and from whatever place he
took a specimen, from the same place an official in his ignorance
took what he considered to be a similar specimen: this was to act as
a check on the geologist! After a few months Mr. Collins, new to the
country, photographed some interesting geological formations that he
saw. At once it was reported that the new geologist was a political
agent spying out the nakedness of the land. He was recalled to Kabul
and kept, as Captain Griesbach had been, for months doing nothing,
till, in disgust, he also resigned. Whether any other able man will in
the future consider it other than waste of time to work against such
obstacles--petty, intangible, but real--I know not. The game seems
hardly worth the candle: unless, indeed, one thinks fit to descend and
meet the Oriental on his own ground: to employ bribery; or, having
learnt the language, to indulge in intrigue and trip his enemies one
by one:--not a difficult matter--for that any educated Englishman of
ordinary intelligence is a match for an Afghan or Hindustani I have
not a doubt, granted that he cares to employ his brain in such unclean
work. Pitch, however, is proverbially defiling, and the triumph is lost
if one comes out of a game besmeared.

His Highness desired me to inform him as soon as I had finished the
arrangements I wished to make at the Hospital to enable the Hindustani
assistants to carry on the work during my absence; then I was to start
on my journey home. He said many kind things to me; among others,
that he considered me a man worthy of trust. He added that there were
certain orders he should commission me to execute in London.

These, I found, were to be the sending out of materials--silks,
satins, and cloth; and jewellery of various kinds. My education,
however, having been medical, I was not in any sense a business man,
and it occurred to me that this was a suitable opportunity for acceding
to the Armenian’s request, and taking him to London with me: he could
attend to these matters better than I.

[Sidenote: The Locusts.]

A few days afterwards, therefore, I wrote to His Highness, and asked
permission for the Armenian to accompany me to England. His Highness
granted my request, and, when the time arrived, generously gave the
Armenian two thousand rupees to pay his expenses.

We did not, however, start on the journey so soon as I had expected,
for His Highness desired me to paint his portrait again. Accordingly,
a few days afterwards I went to the Palace, but I found on examination
that His Highness had not recovered strength sufficiently to enable him
to undergo the fatigue of sitting for a portrait. This seemed likely
to put a stop to my home going for an indefinite time; until a thought
struck me--why should not I paint a portrait from the photograph that
the Sultana had given me. I said nothing to His Highness, but set to

While I was working at this portrait I saw some extraordinary clouds
come quivering along just above the tree tops. They seemed almost as
though they were made up of myriads of little birds. I learnt what
they were soon enough. The locusts had come. The year before I had
seen in Turkestan swarms of little black birds, the only birds, they
told me, that feed on locusts. The Amîr had made an order that all
who killed these birds were to be fined. As, however, they had a habit
of devouring mulberries as well as locusts, many of them were killed.
Curiously enough the locusts did not settle in Kabul, though on the
outskirts of the town one occasionally saw a tree leafless. They came
from the direction of Peshawur, and at Jelalabad and other places on
the way they had worked havoc.

Towards the end of April the portrait was finished, and I went to the
Palace to lay it before the Amîr.

Entering the Palace gardens I met little Prince Mahomed Omer riding out
on horseback surrounded by his guard, with his Lâla or Tutor walking by
his side. He looked very dignified and proud as he sat his horse alone.
The Lâla whispered to him, and he answered my bow by touching his cap:
he was a year and eight months old. When I reached the Palace His
Highness sent a Page to conduct me to one of the gardens where he said
he should be sitting very shortly.

We went through a passage under the wall of the fort, across the moat,
and round to the gardens on the west side of the Palace. There were
several tents erected, but the Amîr’s, which was a gorgeous one, lined
with crimson and white, with glass doors, was pitched on a circular
piece of ground, surrounded by a narrow artificial stream, edged with
Pampas grass. The circular stream was fed by a perfectly straight
stream, edged thickly with Pampas grass, and the water flowed away by a
similar stream on the right. All around were flower-beds and trees, and
in the distance, to the west, the Paghman Mountains, capped with snow.
Behind was the Palace. In front of the Amîr’s tent a large awning was

Here on the carpets the Chief Officers of the army were seated chatting
together. Crossing the stream by a little bridge, I joined them, and
a chair was brought. For the Amîr, was an arm-chair covered with blue
velvet and old gold coloured satin, and in front of it a tiger skin
footrug. Out in the garden two or three hundred soldiers were drawn up:
it was a military Durbar.

Presently the Officers jumped up and joined the soldiers, and I found
the Amîr was approaching. He came in a palanquin with a guard of
soldiers, and in front marched the Page boys, each armed with a small
rifle. His Highness was dressed in a grey military uniform embroidered
with gold, and a grey astrakhan hat with a diamond star. He looked very
handsome, but rather pale.

[Sidenote: Amîr’s Thoughtfulness.]

When His Highness drew near I stood up and took off my turban:--this
is not a difficult matter, one seizes the top of the conical cap round
which the turban is tightly wound. The Armenian who was with me said,
“Salaam aleikoum,” and when His Highness looked up I bowed. He asked me
how I was, and then descending from the palanquin he walked slowly to
the chair. I was very glad to see him walking again. It was a cloudy
and windy day, and presently His Highness turned to me and desired me
to cover my head lest I took cold.

Then the portrait I had just painted was brought forward for His
Highness to see. He was pleased with it, and surprised that I should
have painted it without a sitting. He told me it required certain
alterations, chiefly in the colouring, and he gave directions for the
portrait I had painted in Turkestan to be taken down from the Palace
and brought to my house to correct this one by;

“For,” said he, “that is an exact likeness.”

I was at the Durbar about three hours, and His Highness told me many
things; among others was this:--There were out in the garden several
companies of soldiers drawn up before him, young men and lads, perhaps,
300. Of these there were about twenty of whom he wished to make
officers. He said:

“These men are gentlemen; their fathers and their grandfathers were
gentlemen and men of position, but such is the ignorance of the people
I govern that not one of them can read or write: they know nothing.
What work can they do? None. They can quarrel and fight; it is all they
are fit for.”

He told me that he had given orders for them to be taught, so that they
would be able, at least, to write and read a letter.

He had a regiment of boy soldiers--the “Mahomedan Regiment,” these also
he had directed to be taught reading and writing.

One incident occurred which may be interesting:

A soldier of the guard, a man whom I had attended in Mazar, a handsome
fellow who seemed to be always laughing, came up to His Highness to
report an arrest he had made. He said that while he was on guard over
His Highness’s tent an intruder approached and he challenged him. No
answer being returned he tried to persuade him to go away, saying:--

“Sahib, this is Amîr Sahib’s tent; the tent of the great King; come not
here I pray you.”

But the intruder, treating him with silent contempt, advanced. Once
more he tried persuasion. Humbly taking off his turban he implored:--

“Sahib! Barai-i-Khuda! For God’s sake, approach no nearer; it is Amîr
Sahib’s tent.”

[Sidenote: The Arrest.]

This last request being no more effective than the other, he determined
to act boldly and arrest the intruder be he whom he might. Throwing
down his rifle he pounced upon him, overpowered him, and then proceeded
to make him fast. Driving four tent pegs into the ground he fastened
his legs to two of the pegs and his head to the other two--in the
manner that unruly horses are fixed in Afghanistan.

He felt he had done his duty, and taking up his rifle he continued his
march in front of the tent. But, wai, wai! that he should have to tell
it, when his back was turned, up came two of the gardeners and murdered
the prisoner as he lay.

“Ah?” said the Amîr, with a gleam in his eye; “bring hither the body.”

The soldier withdrew, and presently returned bearing the body of the
victim. It was a little mouse.

The Amîr looked at the soldier a moment and then burst into a hearty
laugh. Everyone joined in--except the gardeners. They were called
up--forty of them--and after being reprimanded for allowing mice in the
garden, were ordered each of them to pay a fine of a certain number of
mice every year.

The next day when the Turkestan portrait arrived I set to work to
correct the new one by it; and when that was finished I copied the
first, since His Highness approved of it, on another canvas.

At the beginning of May, when both were completed, I took them to
the Palace. Hearing, however, that His Highness was not sitting, I
was coming away, when he sent for me back again. He was much pleased
with the paintings, and taking a cigarette out of his case he fitted
it in a holder and gave it me to smoke. He also said he should be
greatly pleased if I would paint a portrait of the two eldest Princes
before I left. I said that nothing would give me greater pleasure: but
afterwards, on thinking it over, my remark struck me as being somewhat
beyond the truth.

It was the month of Ramazàn, the yearly Mahomedan fast. The Prince
could not sit fasting: Religion would not allow him to eat in the day
time; and my capabilities would not allow me to paint in the night,
and we were at a standstill. Instead of sitting for his portrait,
therefore, the Prince took unto himself another wife, and invited me to
the wedding. I have described the Reception after the wedding, in an
early part of the narrative.

On May 9th the Fast of Ramazàn ended, and on the 10th was the festival
of Îd. It was a bright sunny day, which, after the most unusual storms
of hail and rain we had been having, was delightful. The hailstones of
the day before were as big as the end of one’s finger--I brought some
in to examine.

In the night, the river, which, owing to the melting snows and the
rain had been rapidly rising, became so swollen as to be a source of
no little danger to a part of the town. Fortunately the bridge had
been almost cleared away, but as it was a regiment of soldiers were
sent out to strengthen the embankment of the river. There was no moon,
and they worked away all night by torchlight; otherwise, as the river
roared along with great force and at a tremendous speed, the Chindawal
division of the town would have been flooded and the houses washed away.

Îd being a festival everyone was dressed in his smartest, and the
servants all had clean white turbans and white clothes. According to
the custom of the country I gave presents and a feast to my servants
and guard, and went to the Durbar to salute the Amîr. I told His
Highness that when I was in England I would take pains to perfect
myself in the Persian language: that I found difficulty in doing so in
Kabul, as I had neither dictionary nor grammar. His Highness laughed:
he said--

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Comment.]

“I think not. You will take unto yourself a wife, you will visit your
friends, but you will not learn Persian.”

He was quite right.

Two days after this Prince Habibullah gave me the first sitting for
his portrait. He sat in the Salaam Khana, and when I arrived I found
him in the upstairs room, the Guest-house, which has large windows all
round. As the light came in every direction, painting there was an

I could not get any shadow under the brow or chin to give an effect
of relief, and I asked His Highness if he would sit in another room.
As the Prince had studied the art of photography he understood the
difficulty, and we moved at once to one of the lower rooms. Here, by
shutting the shutters of one window, and hanging a curtain over the
lower part of another, we managed to get a very fair light.

There were several of the Prince’s suite in the room, and when I put in
the preliminary charcoal sketch the Prince’s Shaghassi said:--

“Al-láh! What a colour he is making the Prince. The Sirdar Sahib is not

If I had known that I should find photographs of these portraits of
the Princes in possession of the _Graphic_ when I arrived in London,
and that woodcuts of them would be in many of the illustrated London
papers, I should probably have postponed my holiday for a time and
put more work into the paintings. As it was, Prince Habibullah’s was
painted from four sittings and Prince Nasrullah’s from three. That of
the elder Prince was the better likeness. Prince Nasrullah’s portrait,
on being carried from my house to the Palace after I had painted His
Highness’s name on it, met with an accident and was badly scratched.
It was sent back to me, therefore, to repair. When I had it again, it
struck me that one part was not quite correct in drawing, and I worked
at it somewhat without the sitter. When it was dry I sent it in again.
The Prince approved of the alteration, and he desired to send it back
to me yet again, for he said:--

[Sidenote: Nasrullah’s Comment.]

“Behold! it is handsomer than it was; and if I send it a third time
may be it will become still more beautiful.”

By the time the pictures were finished Mr. Pyne had returned to Kabul
from India, bringing with him an English tailor. The day Mr. Pyne
arrived I joined the English party at the Workshops, and we had dinner




    The last Durbar: the Amîr’s remark: a wedding present. Adieux.
    The journey down. An awful day: “difficult hot:” the walk. Played
    out. The stream and the wall. Triumph: exhaustion. The work of
    the locusts. Unwelcome guests: a rejected plan. The breeding
    establishment: a study in colour. A want of tact. An illegal march.
    Simla. The despatch. Dinners and dances. The study of character:
    an education. The Armenian in London. The “hub” of the universe:
    return to India.

On the last day in May I went to the Durbar, for I thought that surely
now I had finished all there was to do before I started. His Highness
received me most kindly.

I said that in my life I had filled other appointments, but that His
Highness’s kindness to me had exceeded all that I had met with before.
He said:--

“Why should I not treat you kindly? You are a ‘Friend of my Heart.’ I
say this not to give you pleasure, but because I mean it.”

I replied that I felt the honour he did me deeply, for I was his
servant and he a King. He said:--

“I have seen many men: high and low; rich and poor; men of noble
descent, and men of obscure birth; but I call no man a friend of my
heart till I have watched his deeds. I judge a man by his deeds, and
not by his words, and again I address you as a Friend of my Heart.”

His Highness desired me to take eight months’ leave; my pay was to
continue during my absence, and, in addition, he gave me as a wedding
present an order upon his Agent with the Government in India for a
considerable sum of money.

The Armenian, who was to accompany me, received written instructions
relating to the commissions the Amîr wished executed in London. During
his absence his salary would be paid to his wife in Kabul.

[Sidenote: Adieux.]

The next day my packing was done. Firmans for pack-horses, tents, and
guard procured, and I took a formal leave of His Highness the Amîr.

I visited Prince Habibullah, who received me most kindly, and after he
had conversed with me for about an hour I took leave of him. I then
rode out to Aliabad, a few miles out of Kabul, where Her Highness the
Sultana was staying, and sent in my salaams to her and the little
Prince Mahomed Omer. Her Highness sent a large tray of sweetmeats, and
presented me with some very beautiful embroidered cashmere.

On June 4th, after a good-bye to Mr. Pyne and the other Englishmen, I
started on my journey home. I will not trace the journey in detail: it
was excessively hot, and I will merely mention one or two incidents
that occurred.

One day the march was particularly trying. We were at Borikâb. I
had breakfast at dawn--three small poached-eggs and some tea. The
baggage and tents were sent off, and when the sun rose we started
gaily. Gaily--_I_--poor fool! little did I know--but you shall hear.
We trotted and trotted, and shuffled and climbed by mountain and
gorge, over pebble and rock, until at midday we reached Jigdilik. We
descended, and sat in the valley in the cool shade of the big trees
and had lunch. Mine was a hard-boiled egg from my holster, a piece
of native bread, and some tea. I thought the march was over, and lay
basking in the shade. Was ever mortal so deluded!

“Sir, please you get up and start; a long way we go to-day,”--thus the
Armenian after an hour.

“Start!! man alive, we started hours ago: you are not going any further
to-day, surely.”

“Sir, we must make haste. Between Dacca and Lalpur, this month is very
difficult hot: and slowly by slowly it makes hotter. Better this, we
get through it soon: you European.”

Immortal Pluto! not the Turkestan plains over again!

“Come along, then,” said I, jumping up, “let us start at once,” and we

Along the narrow rocky ravine we rode--just after midday in June--and
the sun shot down at us. It dried our blood, and the glare burnt into
our brain, at any rate, into mine; I don’t know about the cast-iron

Up the long winding gorge we climbed, and at the summit the breeze
struck us. We caught a few long breaths of coolness, then plunged into
another long winding descent with precipitous rocks on either side. On
and on we trudged, hour after hour, still at last my bodily powers
gave out. This, by the way, was the road that Brydon went over.

[Sidenote: Played Out.]

Ride further I could not, for I had not recovered my strength since
last year’s illness. Nine stone five pounds is not adequate for a man
of my height: it does not leave enough available muscle. Nevertheless,
no one, who is not a Salamander--an amphibious animal, allied to the
newts, and capable of living in fire--can comfortably rest on burning
rocks. There was no shade of any sort, not a tree, nothing, but glaring
rocks and stones. I got off my horse therefore, and walked. I was
conscious at the time that the Afghan guard thought the sun had made
me mad, and as they eyed me suspiciously, I tried to assume a fierce
aspect, and stalked along down hill at the rate of five miles an hour.
The change of motion rested the muscles, and the guard on horseback
came shuffling along hastily behind me. Then came a climb, and I got on
again refreshed and perspiring, but more internally weary, as I found
after riding twenty minutes. Over the rest of the march I will draw the
veil of forgetfulness. It was too terrible for words.

In the evening, we reached Gundamuk. I perceived that my tent was
being put up in a garden, and between me and that garden were a stream
and a wall. I had dismounted, my horse had been led away, and I was
standing on my own legs. I had but little faith in them, for they
seemed inclined to fail me in my hour of need. There was the wall,
staring me in the face, to say nothing of the stream. True, the stream
was but a foot wide, and the wall had a gap in it, nevertheless, they
were difficulties to be overcome. There were two courses open to me:
one was to sit on the ground where I was, and wait until someone could
come and help me across: another was to take time by the forelock and
get across myself somehow or other. Everyone was busy with the baggage
and tents, and no one seemed to perceive my dilemma: therefore, being
resolute by nature, I determined upon the latter course, and stood for
a time considering how I would accomplish it.

Staggering boldly to the stream, I allowed myself to fall forwards till
I caught the wall with both hands; clinging on and clenching my teeth I
gave a vigorous heave to one leg, and in a moment was astride the gap:
nerving myself for another violent effort I swung the other leg over.

I had conquered, and, moreover, without experiencing the loss of
dignity that a fall in the stream would have occasioned. Exhilarated
by my success, I reeled into the tent and sank on the carpet. “Sank,”
perhaps, hardly gives the correct impression, for as soon as the legs
were bent at the knee I sat down with disagreeable suddenness. I
then proceeded to drink large quantities of liquid--tea, water, and
sherbet--and when my charpoy was brought into the tent I climbed on
to it and lay down, hoping to lose my senses in forgetfulness. It was
without avail, and I rolled from side to side seeking rest and finding

In the course of three hours the unwilling fowl was caught, killed, and
cooked, and I made a tough, moist meal. But now I could rest, and no
longer in vain did I court the Goddess of sleep.

[Sidenote: Unwelcome Guests.]

Further on in our march we found the locusts had been at work. Around
Jelalabad the country in spite of the heat had the appearance of
winter: the trees were bare. In the Palace gardens the oranges hung
nearly ripe, but every leaf had gone. When we arrived there we had
afternoon tea in the Guest-house at the Palace, and afterwards rode on
some few miles beyond Jelalabad, where we camped.

I had dinner in the open and then went into my tent to lie down: but
I came out again--quickly. The locusts had invaded it and had crawled
up inside the tent and over the charpoy, so that all was green--a
beautiful green shot with pink: but it gave me no pleasure, the colour
seemed out of place. Moreover, I could not lie down without crunching
my unwelcome guests; and no host, I take it, cares to lie upon the
mangled remains of guests, be they never so unwelcome.

We had noticed that day as we travelled along that a careful peasant
had dug a shallow pond at the foot of a beautiful mulberry tree. The
locusts had perforce spared that tree: they might have tumbled off and
they cannot swim; but they had spitefully nipped off every leaf that
spread beyond the water. A shallow pond, therefore, was dug some little
distance away in the hard-baked earth for my charpoy to stand in, and
since we could not get the locusts out of the tent, we determined to
take the tent away from the locusts. On further consideration, however,
it seemed likely, and indeed the Armenian insisted very strongly on the
point, that if I lay all night with my bed in a pond I should wake
up in the morning with fever or rheumatism, or something disagreeable
which would be likely to hinder our journey.

We left the pond, therefore, and moved away to a bare open space
with never a blade of grass nor a leaf anywhere near. Here my tent
was pitched, and with a feeling of restful security I sat upon my
charpoy and enjoyed the cool of the evening. A tickling sensation at
the back of the neck caused me to raise my hand, and I brushed away
a great locust. Ach! the beasts were all over me: they seemed to be
evolved spontaneously out of nothing. They were not so, however, for
on the mountains outside Kabul we saw myriads of the young locusts
about the size of black ants hopping about in the warm sand. This was
one of their breeding establishments where the eggs are hatched. The
life-history of the locust may be looked upon as an interesting study
in colour, for when he is a babe he is black, as a youth he is pink,
and in adult age green. Two and a-half inches is his length, but he
looks longer: he is all legs and wings. As a creature that crawls I
object to him.

I called for assistance, and the tent was cleared: but they have no
tact, these Locusts, and they came in again and again like so many
Afghan Page boys, welcome or not. I spent an active and shuddering
evening brushing them off my neck, shoulders, and wrists. At last in
despair I covered my head over with a sheet and went to sleep, dreaming
I was being crawled over by scorpions and centipedes.

When we got to the “difficult hot” place (_sakht_, hard, difficult,
severe) between Lalpur and Dacca, the sky was cloudy, and a strong
wind blew. The dust was awful, but safer than the sun.

[Sidenote: The Despatch.]

We went through the Khyber on a closed day, which, I found afterwards,
is illegal. The chief of the Khyber Pathans had been a friend of the
Armenian’s father, and he ordered out the guard of the Pass for us,
so that we could travel on instead of waiting two or three days. At
Jumrood, the end of the Pass, we were stopped by the order of the
British Frontier Officer, and I heard that, if I had been in the
service of the Government, I should have been liable to imprisonment in
the fort for travelling on the wrong day. However, we were allowed to

In Peshawur I got rid of my horses: tipped my Afghan guard, and took
the train to Simla to deliver a Despatch to His Excellency the Viceroy
that His Highness the Amîr had entrusted me with.

The despatch contained nothing political, but simply concerned me
personally. The Foreign Secretary kindly gave me a translation of it.
This is how it runs:--


“Translation of a letter from His Highness the Amîr of Afghanistan and
its Dependencies to the address of His Excellency the Viceroy, dated
the 24th of Showal, 1308 H., corresponding to the 2nd of June, 1891.

“After compliments.

“I have the honour to inform your Excellency that Dr. John Gray has
asked me for some months’ leave in view to proceed to England and
celebrate his marriage, and, after settling his own domestic affairs,
to return to me.

“I have, therefore, given him eight months’ leave, and it has been
settled with him that he should come back to Kabul at the appointed

“This has been written only for your Excellency’s information, so that
your Excellency may be aware of the circumstance and the manner of
leave of Dr. Gray. Of course, he will do everything which he thinks
necessary for his domestic affairs during the period of his leave, and,
having satisfied himself, he will, at the approach of the appointed
period, start to come to Kabul in a happy and hopeful state of mind.”

It will be unnecessary to give details of the gay time we had in Simla.
Colonel Wali Ahmad Khan, the Amîr’s Agent with the Government of India,
had received orders from the Amîr to invite me to the bungalow that the
Government had placed at his disposal. I stayed with him, therefore,
taking the Armenian and my Indian cook. I had my formal interview
with the Viceroy, dined with His Excellency: went to several dances
at the Viceregal Lodge: was introduced to Lord Roberts, Lord William
Beresford, the Quartermaster-General, and other gentlemen: went to
numerous dinners, and, after a fortnight’s gaiety, departed for Bombay,
where, accompanied by the Armenian, I took ship for London.

In India I had been struck by the remarkable whiteness of an
Englishman’s skin: in London I thought I knew every second man I met.
However, I soon came to the conclusion that it must be the type I was
familiar with, not the individual.

The next thing that appealed to me, after I had got over the
strangeness of seeing “Sahibs” drive cabs, heave baggage about, and
take “tips,” was the quaint irregularity of an Englishman’s features:
I do not remember noticing that English ladies appeared in the same
light: on the contrary,--and the Armenian agreed with me.

[Sidenote: The Armenian in London.]

I think the study of character and the endeavouring to form conclusions
as to the course of action that will probably be taken up by any
given individual under different circumstances, is one of the most
fascinating of studies. Here was a case at hand, under my own eye, as
it were.

I had studied the Armenian for a couple of years or so and had come to
conclusions. I knew what he would do, and I would watch the development
of his character under the altered circumstances of life in England. I
would observe the enlargement of his mind as I gradually fed it with
greater and greater wonders.

In India I had thought I would spare him as much as possible on the
journey, lest he became bewildered by the traffic and the bustle of the
railway, but, somehow, it did not seem to be necessary.

He bought a satchel, slung it over his shoulder, asked for the
money--which he kept--took my ticket; paid the hotel bills; looked
after my baggage; chose the best seat in the railway carriage for me;
bullied other people’s servants if they tried to take the seat for
their masters,--I heard one man, a Civil Service official, say, “I
fancy the Amîr in all his glory must be coming down in this train”--and
altogether he behaved as if he knew all about it. However, I thought,
when we get to the sea and the great floating Hotel, the P. & O. boat,
the education will begin. He will be astonished. Perhaps he was, but
I did not see it. He took everything as a matter of course; apparently
he knew it all before; doubtless in some other cycle of existence. He
wasn’t even sea-sick.

London, with its thousands, its grandeur, its turmoil of business, this
will take him aback: the wonder of it must needs appal him.

Appal! He hadn’t been in London a fortnight before he could tell me
what ’bus to take and what the fare was. He knew all about the “Inner
and Outer Circles,” which is more than I do; and before long could give
an opinion on the relative merits of a considerable number of the music
halls and theatres in the Metropolis.

It was I who was bewildered, not he. What manner of man is this, I
thought, will nothing astonish him?

I got orders from the Government for him to visit the Mint,
Woolwich Arsenal, and other places, and he compared them to similar
establishments in Afghanistan, to the disparagement of the English
ones! I took him to Whiteley’s, saying, in a casual way, “This is an
English shop.” He took it quietly, but before he left he had accepted
an invitation to a banquet at the Metropôle that the employées at that
establishment were giving. Moreover, at the dinner he got up and made a
fluent speech!

At my wedding he created a great sensation. He appeared before us on
that occasion in Afghan costume, and attracted, next to the bride,
by far the greatest amount of attention: _I_ was a necessary, but
unnoticeable appendage: a sort of after thought; and all the little
girls fell in love with him. After the ceremony he came into the Vestry
and signed his name, in Persian, in the Register as witness. He said it
was Persian, but it was hard to tell. He explained the peculiarity of
his writing by stating that a warrior is not a clerk.

[Sidenote: Return to India.]

It came though--the wonder and the awe: and I look back with pride upon
that day.

I took him to the Crystal Palace and showed him the display of
fireworks at Brock’s benefit.

“Is this anything?” I asked, feebly and almost in despair. He admitted
it: “Yes!” he said,--this was really fine: even his father had never
seen anything like it.

It was _my_ education that was being completed, my mind that was
developing, and as I sat and looked at the Oriental, I felt that
perhaps this great London was, after all, _not_ the “hub of the
Universe.” I was bewildered. What was the “hub!” Was it Kabul?

When my leave drew to a close, I bade adieu to my little wife, and
sailed for Bombay. It was as well for the Armenian that we went, for,
somehow, he seemed almost a wreck when we got on board. I said as much
to him, and he accounted for his condition by saying that the climate
of England was too strong for him.



    Pathan rifle thieves. Dacca. The midnight alarm: the mêlée: the
    accident: rescued. “Bally rascals:” attempted explanation. The
    next morning. What it was all about. The terror of the Amîr’s
    name. Running postmen. Kabul post. Arrival. Armenian’s opinion of
    London. Changes in the English “staff.” Visitors: letters. Lady
    doctor’s application. Salaam to the Amîr. His Highness’s welcome:
    his conversation. The military Durbar. Presents. The new British
    Agent. Visit to the Sultana. Salaam to Prince Habibullah. His
    conversation. Another visit to the Amîr: his appreciation of scenic
    effect. His answer to the lady doctor’s application.

At Peshawur I found a very kind letter from His Highness waiting for
me, with an order for as many horses as I needed. The guard were to
meet me at Lundi Kotal Serai.

I will not trace the journey in detail, though one incident that
occurred may be worth relating, showing as it does what miracles may
be worked by the magic of the Amîr’s name. I had some English firearms
with me--a couple of rifles and a shot gun--packed in cases, which I
wished to present to the Amîr, and when we reached Dacca the Armenian
was considerably disturbed in his mind concerning the safety of these
weapons. The neighbouring Pathans, he said, were exceedingly clever
thieves, and they had a curious passion for English rifles.

In the evening he told me several interesting stories, laughable in
their cleverness, of the way in which these Pathans managed to obtain
from Peshawur weapons of English manufacture.

[Sidenote: The Midnight Alarm.]

The tents had been put up facing the river on the edge of the high
bank, in order to catch as much breeze as possible. The Armenian’s tent
was just at a corner where a nullah or dry water-course cut the bank;
mine was next. The nullah was perhaps twelve feet deep, and the bank of
the river some twenty feet above the surface of the water.

I turned in about ten o’clock and slept soundly till about midnight,
when I was awakened suddenly by the sound of a scuffle. Instantly it
occurred to me, “the Shenwarris are after my guns.”

I threw a cloak round me and stepped out of the tent. It was very dark,
but there appeared to be a free fight going on. I could dimly make
out a body of men struggling, could hear the thuds of blows and the
Armenian’s voluminous voice roaring in manifest rage. There were no
reports of firearms, but it occurred to me as an advisable precaution
to be possessed of a revolver before entering the _mêlée_. Mine, a
heavy one, had been carried by the Armenian the day before, and since
he was not using it I concluded it must be in his tent. Hastily,
therefore, so as not to be out of the fun, I made for his tent.
Remembering the high bank and the rapid river below, I groped round the
back of the tent, stumbling over the ropes, until--down I went. I had
forgotten all about the nullah. Instinctively throwing out a hand, I
caught a tent-peg. It cracked dangerously at the sudden jerk, and for
a moment I was hanging over the edge at arm’s length on this rickety
concern; then I found my feet resting on a ledge. I was very annoyed
at being so entirely shelved, and was considering how I could get out
of the position with dignity and honour, when I heard the sound of some
one running and the Armenian’s voice calling,

“Sir! Sir! Where are you?”

I answered, as it were, from the bowels of the earth, and when he had
localized my whereabouts he hauled me up. I had to leave my dignity
behind. He said--

“Sir, please, you go back, you not trouble; _I_ manage these bally
rascal: these dogs’ sons. A little I afraid you get hurt.”

Of course, I was not going back to my tent until I knew what the row
was all about.

A light was brought. The Colonel commanding the station, and a crowd
of people, all more or less excited, were to be seen. They pulled
out a charpoy from one of the tents for me to sit on, and tea was
brought--why, I don’t know. When we had drank tea everyone began to
explain at once. The Colonel in Persian; the soldiers in Pushtu; and
the Armenian in involved English. The Colonel and the soldiers spoke
very fast and loudly, constantly interrupting one another, and I caught
only a word here and there. What the Armenian wished to express I could
not imagine. A man was then brought forward with his arms bound behind
his back.

The Colonel and the Armenian seemed much disturbed that I had fallen
down the nullah, but what the explanation of the bound man was I could
not make out: only this, that he was _not_ a thief after my rifles. I
went to bed again.

[Sidenote: The Next Morning.]

In the morning, after breakfast, when every one had cooled down, I
heard the explanation. The Colonel, it seems, had stationed the guard.
All went quietly for a time until the Armenian, before he turned in,
made a round of the sentries. He found one point improperly guarded,
and ordered one of the soldiers to move his position. The man refused
with a Pushtu oath: and high words followed. In this the soldier was
no match for the Armenian, and being exasperated at receiving harder
words than he could return, he endeavoured to stab his bayonet into the

Such a line of action not meeting the Armenian’s views as to the
eternal fitness of things, he closed with the soldier. His “education”
in England had not been without effect, and scorning to use a knife,
like a native, he proceeded to punch the soldier’s head. The magnetic
effect of a “fight” caused other people to run up, and the thuds and
scuffle of the _mêlée_ aroused me.

After the explanation, the unfortunate man, with his hands bound, was
brought forward, and the Colonel begged me to pronounce sentence upon
him. He said he would carry out any punishment I chose to impose;
whether of fine, imprisonment, or death. He offered me his revolver,
that I might have the supreme delight of killing the man myself; or,
if that did not meet my views, he would himself shoot him at once.
All this excessive politeness arose from the fact that I expressed
to the Colonel my sense of dissatisfaction that a distinguished
foreigner could not travel through his district without being exposed
to annoyances of this kind. I asked whether he thought Amîr Sahib
would be satisfied with his administrative power. At the mention of
His Highness’s name, the Colonel became greatly disturbed in his mind,
and desired me to look upon himself as my dog. I said that I was not
in need of a dog just then, and that these words did not please me. As
for judging the man, I was not a magistrate in the country, how could I
take upon myself to judge him. With a damp forehead and a dry tongue he
begged me, as a friend to the poor, not to report the matter.

I began gradually to be appeased, to soften the severe aspect of the
countenance, and unbend the knitted brow, for, as I have frequently
remarked, I am a mild man. The Colonel perceiving his advantage ordered
tea to be brought instantly, and waited upon me with both hands.
“Slowly by slowly” the threatened storm blew off, and the Colonel,
with joy in his heart, accompanied us miles on the journey, telling
many yarns and amusing stories, whereat we laughed. We are now great
friends--he and I: for had I not stood by him in an hour of trouble,
when his heart melted within him, and his interiors were as water!

Riding along we met one of the “running postmen”: a tall, gaunt hillman
without an ounce of superfluous fat on him. These men run for a certain
number of miles with the sealed leather post satchel, and then pass it
on to the next. There are rough sheds by the wayside where each remains
till his turn comes. They carry a long bamboo lance tipped and shod
with steel, and with a small bell fixed just below the blade. The post
for India leaves Kabul on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and that from India
arrives on Sundays and Thursdays.

At the stage before Kabul I had received a letter from His Highness
directing me to take possession of the house I formerly occupied in
the town: to rest for a day; and on the following day to come on to
Endekki, when he would receive me.

[Sidenote: The Arrival.]

We arrived at Kabul on a Sunday morning, in March, 1892. It was a
proud day for the Armenian as he rode through the bazaar with his
solar helmet on one side--no miserable native turban for him now.
His hand was on his hip and his elbow pointed outwards: his uplifted
head desired to strike the stars. With a lofty pity, not unmingled
with contempt, he gazed around at the admiring faces of the salaaming
Kabulis. Was he not a traveller of renown: one who had crossed the
great river and penetrated to the very heart of the Feringhi country!

Mr. Walter, the tailor, rode out to meet us; he said to the Armenian:

“Well, did you like London?”

“Sir, what _d’you_ think! But London is very good place for rich man,
very bad place for poor man. Kabul is good for poor man.”

“What did you do in London?” asked Mr. Walter.

“O, Sir! A little I walk this way and that, and upon ladies I pinch

By this I fancy he must have meant he winked. It was a revelation to
me, and I looked at him severely. What other remarkable development
might I not detect!

I heard from Mr. Walter that the two engineers, Messrs. Stewart and
Myddleton, had departed, and their places were taken by two Scotchmen.
Mr. Pyne had gone to England on leave and had not yet returned. He was
to bring out several other Englishmen.

The Armenian had the house swept out, the carpets down, and everything
straight in a very short time. Several people called in the afternoon.
Some of the Armenian’s relatives: the Compounder; and some Afghans whom
I knew. I found half-a-dozen letters waiting for me, one from my wife,
whereat I rejoiced, and one from a lady missionary in India who wished
to enter the Amîr’s service as medical attendant upon the Harem.

I had met another lady in Peshawur who also wished to enter the Amîr’s
service. She was attached to the Afghan Mission in that town, and spoke
Persian, Pushtu, and Hindustani, and had had some medical training.
She told me she was intending to travel to Kabul, in disguise, with
the Koffla, the travelling merchants. She was young, and I endeavoured
to point out some of the dangers she would be exposed to from Afghan
ruffians, and did my best to dissuade her from such a rash undertaking.
It seemed to me the conception was an utterly mad one, but that if she
desired greatly to enter the service the best thing would be to write
and apply to His Highness. However, she did not write that I know of.

The other lady missionary who wrote was much older, and in due time I
had her letter translated and laid before His Highness. How the Amîr
received the application I will relate presently.

The day after our arrival I rode to the Endekki Palace to salaam the
Amîr. In the great hall I met many of the Court whom I knew, and
chatted with them. As soon as His Highness rose I was called to the
inner room.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Welcome.]

I found His Highness seated on a couch of crimson and gold. He was
dressed in a black morning suit, with an ordinary English shirt and
collar: he looked very European, and his hands, on which were some
beautiful rings, struck me as being singularly white. He had picked up
wonderfully since June, when I saw him last, was nothing like so thin,
and looked exceedingly well. The room had the appearance of a lady’s
boudoir, with flowers, vases, embroideries, piano, and so on.

I bowed as I entered the room, and His Highness smiled and beckoned me
forwards. He held my hand some minutes while he made kindly enquiries
as to my health; and he asked was my wife well and the other members of
my family.

He said he was exceedingly pleased to see me again, and he thanked God
that I had returned safely. He then allowed me to be seated.

He enquired the date of my wedding, and on hearing that my married life
had lasted only for three months and a-half, he said: “How sorrowful
your wife must be, how sorrowful she must be.” Presently he said--

“I will grant you leave of absence again soon; you shall go to your
home when the winter comes.”

He promised, with great kindness, that every preparation should be
made for the reception of Mrs. Gray in Kabul, and desired her to be
accompanied by two English maidservants, whose salaries he would charge
himself with. When she felt a longing to return to England she should
go: if, however, she did not care to accompany me back to Kabul, he
would from time to time give me leave of absence at short intervals. As
regards transmitting pay, he said he would order any proportion of my
salary that I wished, to be paid either in London or to my bankers in

He told me that both coal and iron had been found in the country, and
he said that it was his intention soon to visit England himself. He
referred to the death of Prince Albert Victor, and spoke highly of him,
and I remember he told me an anecdote in the life of the Prince. He
spoke some little time on other matters, and then tea and cigarettes
were brought. There had been no one in the room with His Highness
during the interview, except myself, the Armenian, and one of the
Page boys. After being with His Highness four or five hours, I asked
permission to withdraw, and then visited Malek, the Page, who was ill.
He seemed very pleased to see me.

The next day, Tuesday, was a military Durbar, and I visited His
Highness again, taking with me the rifles I had brought, as I wished to
present them to him. His Highness received me kindly, and accepted the
present I laid before him. I had also brought for Prince Habibullah a
plumed helmet, such as an officer in India would wear. The Prince was
at the Durbar, and His Highness, after examining the helmet, kindly
allowed me to present it to the Prince.

There were a great many of the Afghan military officers present:
they were seated along the side of the room, and among them was the
new British Agent, the Sirdar Mahomed Afzal Khan. The former agent,
Colonel Attaullah Khan, having been long a resident at the Amîr’s
Court, had withdrawn. Lunch was served, and at five o’clock I came away.

The next day the fast of Ramazàn commenced, and I got to work at the

A few days afterwards I rode out to the country house where Her
Highness, the Sultana, was living, and sent in my salaams with a
present of silks and so on that I had brought for her and the little
Prince Mahomed Omer. A kind message was received in reply, and after
the usual tea, cigarettes, and sweets, I rode back to Kabul.

[Sidenote: Salaam to the Prince.]

A day or two afterwards, I paid a formal visit to Prince Habibullah. He
was living in the bungalow of the Bâbur Gardens.

It was a pretty garden with fountains, flowers and trees, situated
on the slope of the mountains outside Kabul, in a sort of natural
concavity in the hills.

The Prince received me most kindly, and talked for some time, asking
me many questions about London. He desired me also to paint another
portrait of himself; which, by the way, I never had the opportunity of

One afternoon in the next week I again visited His Highness, the Amîr,
taking with me the letter of the lady missionary who desired to enter
the Amîr’s service.

While I was waiting in the great hall, smoking cigarettes, my old
friend, General Nassir Khan, came and chatted with me, saying how
pleased he was to see me back again. Another friend also came and
spoke to me, the Brigadier Hadji Gul Khan. I do not know if he was as
pleased to see me as the General, for he had been living in my house
while I was in London, and had to turn out when I came back; however,
he expressed himself as delighted.

It was late in the afternoon when I arrived at the Palace, and when
I was called in to the Amîr the dusk of the evening had fallen. As
soon as I entered the room, His Highness called my attention to a
most picturesque evening effect that could be seen from his window.
A brilliant gleam of light appeared between the clouds in the sky,
the mountains could be seen shadowy but distinct; the middle ground
was in deep shadow, and in the foreground were the Palace gardens and
fountains lit by the light from the Palace.

His Highness read the translation of the lady missionary’s letter, and
said, that at present the country was too unsettled in condition for
it to be a suitable field for the efforts of an English lady doctor.
When, however, Mrs. Gray accompanied me to Kabul, the lady might travel
with her. His Highness spoke some time, and told me that in future,
when I wished to see him, there was no need for me to write and make
an appointment: he would receive me at any time, day or night. I got
home at nine o’clock in the evening and wrote to the lady missionary,
telling her as nearly as I could His Highness’s words. Mrs. Gray never
went to Kabul, nor I believe did the lady missionary.



    Ramazàn. The outbreak of Cholera. Precautions. Notices in the
    bazaars. Rapid spread. European medicine. The overwhelming dread.
    Processions to the Mosque. Oriental fatalism. Exodus of the Court.
    The shadow of death. Cases. Removal of the Court to the mountains.
    Closure of the Workshops. The Armenian as an Inspector. The
    Prince’s chamberlain. Death of the Dabier-ul-Mulk. The mortality.
    An incident. Afghan appreciation of British motives. Arrival of
    an Englishman with thoroughbred horses. Dying out of the Cholera.
    Visit to Paghman. The soldiers in chains: their iniquities. Anger
    of the Amîr: his decision: the choice. An earthquake: the Amîr
    as a scientist. Illness of the “Keeper of the Carpets.” Arrival
    of Mr. Pyne and other Englishmen. Another visit to the Amîr. His
    Highness’s description of a Royal illness: the cure: the comment,
    and the other patient. Dinner from the Palace: the sealed dishes.

[Sidenote: A Fatal Ramazàn.]

Four days after this was Good Friday, April 15th, and three cases of
cholera occurred in the town. It was “Ramazàn,” when good Mahomedans
fast all day and eat enormously at night. Knowing as I did something
of the careless nature of Asiatics: of the awful condition, sanitarily
speaking, of the town of Kabul: of the insufficiency and impurity of
the water supply: it seemed to me that the disease _must_ spread with
deadly rapidity.

The conjecture was only too correct.

The Europeans in Kabul readily understanding the serious condition of
affairs, were easily induced to take suitable precautions, such as the
avoidance of fruit and uncooked vegetables; the drinking of water only
after it had been boiled and filtered; and the careful abstention from
any kind of excess in either eating or drinking.

For the natives, I ordered to be posted about in the bazaars, notices
in Persian advising similar precautions; and described a simple filter
in which after water had been boiled it could be run through sand and
charcoal; for sand and charcoal were both of them to be easily obtained
in the town. I sent an inspector--my Burma policeman--with a band of
soldiers to examine if the city scavengers did their duty, and to order
the removal from the town of all filth that they could get access to. I
brought forth all the barrels of disinfectant powder that the Hospital
contained, but which was of necessity pitiably insufficient, and
ordered its free use in all suspicious places.

At first, cases among the soldiers were reported to me, and I attempted
isolation: but soon this was utterly impossible, for the men fell
in numbers that increased alarmingly day by day. In the town the
disease, as is usual with cholera, was most erratic in its onslaughts.
I endeavoured to institute the reporting of cases to me as soon as
they arose, but it was a useless attempt, and scores died before I
even heard of them. Two days after the commencement, namely, on April
17th, it was reported, that between six a.m. and six p.m. there were a
hundred and eighty-five corpses carried out of Kabul for burial. The
number of deaths was, I heard, reported daily to His Highness, though
to me this was of less importance than the daily number of fresh cases.
The sick soon ceased calling for Hakims, and their friends came in
increasing crowds to my house for European medicines.

I gave them pills containing opium and acetate of lead, to be taken at
certain intervals, to the number of three. No food nor drink was to
be taken; but to allay the intense thirst the patient might suck ice.
For the severe abdominal pain mustard poultices, and for the agonizing
cramps in the limbs massage, were to be employed. This was the general
treatment, varied of course for special cases and complications.

[Sidenote: The Dread.]

Day by day the great shadow deepened over the city. A sickening dread
was in the heart of each; for who might not be the next victim? Men
gathered together and cheered themselves with forced gaiety, and bhang,
or sat with terror-stricken faces waiting for death. Wailing was in
every house, and one could not ride ten yards without meeting parties
of mourners carrying out fresh victims to the graveyard.

“The cholera is in the air,” they said.

The Amîr ordered processions to march to the Mosques with banners and
music and pray for deliverance. Can one believe it! but such was the
paralysing effect of “Kismet,” or of terror, in the town, that the men
were driven to the Mosques with sticks by the soldiers ere they would

With the fatalism of their nature it was not to be hoped that they
would take the precautions to avoid infection--ordinary and simple
though they were--that I had pointed out.

The bodies of the dead were washed in the Kabul river, from which most
of the drinking water of the town was obtained! They were carried
through the gorge by the river-side and buried near the road at the
foot of the Asmai Mountain.

If a man were thirsty he drank whatever water was at hand: out of an
irrigation ditch fouled with wayside filth, from a polluted well,
or the Kabul river. So far from avoiding fruit and vegetables the
townspeople ate of them largely.

When men dropped down in the Durbar, and the Palace attendants were
seized, the Amîr and the Court moved from Endekki to Rish Khor, in the
direction of the Paghman Hills.

As I was needed among the sick, His Highness did not withdraw me from
the town. I was living between Chandawal and the gardens around Timur’s
Tomb, and soon the cholera spread its wings over us. The houses near me
were made desolate, and one of my servants lay dying in the garden.

This man was an Afghan hillman, a good fellow, cheery, and really, it
seemed to me, honest. No one told me when he was first taken, for he

“Why should the Doctor Sahib be troubled for such as I, he has enough
work with others.”

The next day when the pains and the cramps came on, one of the servants
reported the matter to me. I went to the man at once, but it was too
late; he was collapsed, with sunken eyes, his nose was peaky and blue,
the skin of his body cold and his hands shrivelled. I looked at the
other servants and asked why I was not told of this before.

None of them answered. The man seemed grateful that I had seen him, but
he died in the night.

I visited a good many at their houses. It would have been absurd to
wait for an order from the Amîr at a time such as this; sometimes I
took the Armenian to translate, at other times I went alone, for I
knew enough Persian to get along with. My guard--often a single or a
couple of soldiers--waited outside the house while I went in. A guard
was really superfluous, for no one was likely to hurt me: on the
contrary, I was welcomed with every sign of gratitude.

As regards the form of treatment I had adopted, I found it successful
in a great many cases, though the proportion of those who recovered,
compared with the number of deaths in the town, was doubtless
excessively small. Hundreds, however, took the medicine whom I never
saw. Some would carry out the instructions I gave them to the letter,
others would take the medicine but consult their friends as to the
instructions. These cases did not do so well, and I ceased attending
where I was not obeyed.

[Sidenote: Exodus of the Court.]

On the 21st of April, the cholera spread to Rish Khor, and there was
an exodus of the Court to the Paghman Mountains. Here the water was
good, tumbling down in many little cascades from the hills. One day I
was seized with vomiting and was ill, and the Amîr hearing of it sent
to enquire how I was. Happily by the time the messenger arrived I was
better. Soon the road between Paghman and the infected city was closed,
and sentries were posted to cut off all communication.

In the Arm Foundry the native workmen dropped down at the benches, and
work was stopped for want of men to do it.

I was called to see one of the storekeepers of the foundry, Gholam
Nuksh Ban, who was seized. I had hopes for him, and the second day he
was better. After that he ceased following the instructions I gave,
and took the advice of Hakims and friends. I found him drinking curds
and whey, and large quantities of water: I left him therefore. Vomiting
returned with excessive violence and he died. Before he died, however,
he gave into my hands a magazine rifle that I had bought for the Amîr
in London, but which had been detained at the Frontier and afterwards
sent on.

The Armenian went the round of the bazaars to inspect the food sold. He
was not a skilled inspector, but he could at least distinguish rancid
butter, sour milk, putrid meat, or decomposing vegetables, when he saw

At this time the Hazaras broke out in rebellion, and the locusts
invaded Kabul again. The latter, wise creatures, did not stay; they
passed on.

I received an order to attend one of the Chamberlains of Prince
Habibullah, and I went to his house. To see a stranger in the grip of
cholera is bad; but to see a man you know, is a horror that catches
you in the throat. There were the shrunken features and ashy-grey face
of a dreadful ghost of the man I knew. I tried hard to save this man’s
life. Visiting him time after time, I made his men do as I said. The
look in the eyes of a man when he greets you, feeling the dread phantom
loosening its hold and his life coming back to him, is a thing to

The Dabier-ul-Mulk, Chief Secretary to the Amîr, and the man, I
suppose, most trusted by His Highness, was seized. I was sorry I
received no order to attend him. He died.

Of the four Englishmen who were in Kabul at the onset of the disease
none were ill--with the exception of my own slight attack.

At the end of six weeks the cholera lessened in severity in the town
and spread more in the surrounding villages. It returned, however,
again and again, and the mortality was excessive. By the beginning of
June I was informed that eleven thousand deaths had been reported to
His Highness in Kabul and its neighbourhood.

Among other stories I heard at the time was one of a man falling and
dying just outside the town, near the execution ground. The body was
not seen till the following morning, when a man riding by saw the
pariah dogs that prowl in that neighbourhood snarling and worrying over

[Sidenote: “British Motives!”]

Another story, less hideous and perhaps more interesting was this: A
man coming up to a group standing in the street said--

“A relative of mine is ill with this disease.”

Said one of the group--

“Why go you not at once to the English Doctor, he is giving medicine.”

“Nay,” answered the man, “the British Government sent him here to
poison as many as he can.”

“Khair,” said a third, “not so. To my wife, ill with this disease, he
gave a medicine: she is now well.”

“Beshak,” said a fourth. “Undoubtedly; but the Sirkar-i-Engrez send him
that by curing us he may gain our friendship. Thus they hope to draw
away the people and the country from Amîr Sahib, that they may come
themselves and rule us.”

Meanwhile another Englishman, Mr. Clemence, had arrived. He brought
with him from England two or three thoroughbred stallions and some
hackneys, for the improvement of the Amîr’s stud. He had, however, been
directed to make a detour and avoid Kabul, and had been conducted to
Faizabad, where he took up his quarters. Shortly afterwards he rode
into Kabul to visit the other Englishmen: a woeful time to arrive in a
strange town.

About the middle of June we had violent thunder storms and heavy rain,
a most unusual occurrence at that time of the year, and the weather
became cool, much cooler than it was in April.

The cholera now appeared to be dying out, and men began to draw their
breath again and to recover from the oppressive dread. I wrote to His
Highness and enquired his health. He replied that he was well, and
invited me to visit him at Paghman.

It is a beautiful ride of about fifteen miles. First there is the
Chahardeh Valley, with cornfields, hedges, and gardens; then the
incline at the foot of the mountains; the Paghman Valley, and a last
steep climb to the Royal residence.

It was very cool at Paghman; there were trees, flowers, and waterfalls,
but the corn instead of being ripe was green. Almost directly we
arrived at the Palace I was shown into the room where His Highness was
sitting, and he greeted me most kindly. He referred to the cholera, and
reminded me that I had told him at my last interview how very little
sickness there was, so that Doctors and Hakims had very little to do.

Tea and cigarettes were brought, and His Highness directed the Pages
to offer me the cakes and biscuits that were brought for his own

By-and-bye there were some soldiers brought in, in chains. His Highness
called my attention to them, and told me the story of their offences.

[Sidenote: Anger of the Amîr.]

It was quite a long story. They had formed a conspiracy against their
Captain, whom they had accused of oppression and other evils. His
Highness dilated at some length upon their iniquities, and finally

“What can one do with such men?”

They threw themselves on the ground, crying--

“Tobah! tobah!”--“Alas! alas!”

The Amîr said--

“Nay! the time is past for ‘tobah.’ You have admitted before the Priest
that the accusation you made against your officer was false.”

One began to say that he was “Amîr Sahib’s servant.”

“What word is this?” thundered the Amîr, “my servant!! This General
is my servant, this man and this (the Treasury Officer and the Deputy
Commander-in-Chief), these are my servants. You? You are the dog of my

“What shall I do to you?” he said, as they stood quaking. Then he added,

“You shall be taken from here to a room apart, there shall you sit and
debate among yourselves what your punishment shall be, and to-morrow
you shall again be brought before me.”

Then they were hurried away.

What the choice of each one was I do not know, but I had occasion to
learn the choice of some of them. A few days afterwards on visiting the
Sherpur Hospital I saw four or five of the men. They each greeted me
with a wan smile and held up the left arm--the hand had been severed at
the wrist joint.

His Highness then continued talking to me concerning the causes of
cholera, and he ordered a specimen of Paghman drinking water to be
brought. While I was examining it, the windows commenced rattling, and
I thought vaguely that the wind must have risen very suddenly. Hearing
a bustle I looked up and saw the Pages hurrying together and the Amîr
standing. I jumped up at once. A moment or two afterwards His Highness
sat down again, motioning me to do the same. He said--

“Did you not recognize the cause of that noise?”

“No, Sir,” I answered, “I thought it was the wind.”

He laughed and said--

“It was an earthquake! Another time you must be quicker and get out of
the house.” He said that the motion of the earth in an earthquake, at
any given spot, was in a vertical, not a horizontal direction. Were
it in a horizontal direction, he said, the very mountains would fall.
Being in a vertical direction the pressure on the beams of a house,
owing to the weight of the roof, becomes excessive, and they are likely
to give way. For this reason it is advisable to get out into the open
when an earthquake commences.

Soon after this His Highness wrote a few words on a slip of paper,
and calling the Armenian to him he handed him the paper. When the
Armenian returned to me he whispered that the Amîr had increased my pay
considerably. I commenced to thank His Highness, but he smiled, and
silenced me by raising his hand.

About four o’clock, dinner was brought. For me a European one was
provided, the only peculiarity of which was that the soup followed the

After dinner, His Highness asked me if I was returning to Kabul that
night, or whether I would remain at Paghman till the morning. As I had
six horses with me I decided to return. His Highness asked me before I
left to visit the “Ferrash-bashi,” or “Keeper of the Carpets,” who was
ill. This was the gentleman I met first in Turkestan, who struck me as
being “not such a villain as he looked.”

Accordingly, I called upon him at his house in Paghman, which was some
distance down the hill.

I found he had had a stroke, and was paralyzed on one side. I gave him
advice, and said I would ride over in a day or two to see him again.
Night came on as we were riding home, and we had to do the last two or
three miles at a walk.

[Sidenote: Arrival of English.]

At this time Mr. Pyne was on his way back to Kabul after the
termination of his leave; and two days after my visit to Paghman he
arrived in the town, bringing with him Mr. Arthur Collins, who had
entered the service as geologist. Being well mounted they had ridden
the last two stages in a day, arriving in Kabul in the evening. Coming
so quickly they were ahead of their baggage, and had had nothing to eat
since the early morning. A dinner was soon provided, and I sent them
plates, knives, and forks; and blankets for the night.

Several other Englishmen had entered the service, who arrived the
next day with the baggage. There were two more assistant engineers;
a mining assistant to Mr. Collins; a gardener, and a lapidary. The
last did not stay long, as it was found that the native lapidaries
could do ordinary work; and extraordinary work, such as the Amîr hoped
for, was, I understood, only possible with special machinery. About a
month afterwards two other Englishmen arrived, a tanner and a currier
from Yorkshire: so that at this time there were no less than fourteen
Englishmen in Kabul.

The day after the arrival of the Englishmen I rode over to Paghman
again to see the Ferrash-bashi. Mr. Walter, the tailor, who wished to
try a coat on the little Prince Mahomed Omer, accompanied me. I found
my patient no worse, and after lunching off some delicious Paghman
cherries I went on to the Palace to salaam His Highness.

After salutations, tea, and cigarettes, His Highness told me the story
of a severe illness he suffered from when he was a youth. He was a
General in his father’s army, and was so ill that he had to be carried
to the wars on a charpoy. He was hoisted on to men’s shoulders, or on
to a house top, or hill, to see the battles. The Hakims told him that
the illness he suffered from was due to the presence of a large worm or
snake in his stomach. Medicine after medicine was used without avail:
and large quantities of iced water were drunk with the intention of
chilling the creature and driving it out. This being unsuccessful an
idea struck the Amîr: he abstained from food for many hours, and then
ordered to be prepared a very delicious and savoury dinner, and he sat
with this in front of him hoping to tempt the worm. It was successful,
and feeling the creature crawling up his throat he waited; then seizing
the head he drew it forth.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Comment.]

“Thus did I succeed in getting rid of the vile creature,” said the
Amîr, and, suiting the action to the word, he appeared to be drawing a
rope from his mouth, hand over hand.

In a serious and profoundly interesting account of a Royal illness and
cure, it was exceedingly improper for me to be affected by the humorous
side of the narrative; but, try as I would to prevent it, a shadow of a
smile appeared. His Highness noticing it looked very straight at me and

“I tell you this for your own guidance. I have here a man suffering
from the same disease. Him I desire you to examine. Administer such
medicines as you deem suitable, giving also due weight to the narrative
I have related of my own sufferings and cure, that thus his recovery
may be ensured.”

I found that the patient was suffering from a disease that was,
perhaps, less interesting than that His Highness suffered from: he
had cancer of the stomach. I am sorry to say I was of necessity less
successful in treating him than His Highness had been in treating

After some further talk with His Highness, I retired and rode back to
the Ferrash-bashi’s. It seems that the last time I had gone to see His
Highness, he had ordered tents and dinner to be brought for me to the
patient’s house: they arrived about half-an-hour after we had left.
This time, therefore, we stayed. The tents were put up on the grass in
the cherry orchard: a couch, covered with yellow and purple silk, was
brought from the Palace and dinner arrived. The dishes had been taken
before His Highness for approval: the tray was then covered with a
white cloth and sealed before him. I was informed of the arrival of
dinner: the seal was broken in my presence; and the dishes made hot at
a fire on the grass outside my tent. I dined: then after more cherries
and a smoke, I retired to my gorgeous couch, well-pleased with myself
and everybody else.

The next morning, after breakfast, we rode back to Kabul. I was going
down the long slope from the Paghman Hills at a smart trot, when I
heard a sudden exclamation, and, looking back, saw the Armenian and his
horse go headlong: he was riding the brute of mine that stumbled. I
shouted to a soldier to catch my bridle, and sprang off to see what the
damage was, for the horse had rolled over the Armenian’s leg. He was
crushed and bruised a good deal, and the skin scraped off his leg, but
there were no breakages. He had, however, a bump on his head big enough
for all practical purposes. We sat for a little by the wayside till he
had recovered, then he got on another horse, and we went the rest of
the way at a walk.

After dinner, I luxuriated in a long chair opposite the window. The
view was the sky and an apple-tree laden with fruit: beyond were vines,
apricot, and almond trees; in the distance over the tree-tops was the
purple and shadowy summit of a mountain. The doves were coo-cooing, and
the sparrows chirping. Later, the moon came out and the hoophoe cried



    A political Durbar: tact of the Amîr: a friendly soldier. The
    banquet. Return of the Cholera. Essay on “Precautionary measures:”
    its fate. Health of the English in Kabul. Serious illness of
    the gardener: lying rumours. Report to the Amîr: His Highness’s
    kindness. Visit to Prince Nasrullah: a “worm-eaten” tooth: the
    consultation: the operation: the present: effect of example. Erring
    Englishmen: the Amîr’s remedy. Amîr as a chess-player: the unhappy
    Courtier. The far-sighted Armenian: winter quarters. End of the
    Cholera. Invasion of Small-Pox and Erysipelas. To Paghman: Portrait
    of Prince Mahomed Omer: present from the Sultana. The sketch of
    the Prince: his amusement: resemblance to the Amîr: his costume:
    arrangement of the group. Present of a slave boy: embarrassment.
    A lesson in courtesy to the Page boys. Native dinners. Visit of
    Mr. Pyne: the sandali. Completion of the portrait. Kept waiting
    at the door: the “Gnat.” The Amîr’s remark. Sultana’s gift to
    the Paghmanis: Afghan mode of slaughtering: cogitations. Ride
    to Kabul: the mud. Money bothers: the Afghan Agent: the “Gnat.”
    Sent for to the Palace: a Landscape Commission: postponement of
    leave: disappointment: the Amîr’s remedy: gratification and pride.
    Christmas dinner at the shops. The “Health of Her Majesty.”

[Sidenote: Political Durbar.]

A week after this, July 4th, was the Festival of Îd, and in the morning
I rode with the Armenian to Paghman to salaam His Highness. The other
Englishmen followed later in the day. We arrived about eleven a.m.
The review of troops and prayers were finished, and His Highness had
just taken his seat in the Durbar Hall. I was admitted at once into
the presence, and bowing said, through the Armenian, that I wished His
Highness all happiness. A chair was then ordered to be placed for me
in a bay window: it was not so near His Highness as usual, and I was
wondering why, when the Armenian whispered--

“It is a Durbar of Chiefs and Maleks.”

Presently the hall began to fill, but His Highness allowed no one to
be placed between himself and me, and even ordered a vase of flowers
on the table in front of him to be moved so that he could see me

The visitors were Army Officers and Chiefs from all parts of the
country; Turkomans, Hazaras, and Afghans. I rather wished myself out of
it, fearing that my visit had been inopportune.

At the end of the room in an arm-chair by an open window sat His
Highness. Outside were the guard and a crowd of some hundreds of
people. In a chair on the Amîr’s left, and at some little distance,
sat Prince Habibullah: he was attired in a scarlet uniform with plumed
helmet. Everyone else sat on the ground. On His Highness’s right were
Prince Nasrullah, Sirdar Usuf, the Amîr’s uncle, and the British Agent:
then came the principal military officers; and all round the room the
Chiefs and Maleks.

Seeing the British Agent I was relieved, feeling sure that, after all,
my visit was not an intrusion. I could not but admire His Highness’s
tact in the way in which, having allowed me to be present unofficially
in a State Durbar, he considered the European feeling of dignity in
allowing me a chair with no one between himself and me; and considered
also the jealous pride of the Afghans in placing me in the window, and,
as it were, outside the circle.

His Highness addressed his audience for some little time, chiefly in
Pushtu but partly in Persian. It did not concern me, and I paid no
attention. Glancing out of the window where I was sitting I saw one of
His Highness’s guard stationed there with fixed bayonet. As he caught
my eye he salaamed and smiled. I could not think at first who he was:
then I remembered I had attended him in Turkestan for double pneumonia
when he was very dangerously ill. He had recovered, and I saw no more
of him till this day: he had grown so plump that at first I did not
recognize him.

[Sidenote: The Banquet.]

When the talking was over sweetmeats were brought, and His Highness
sent me a plateful from his table. Outside were bands of music: at one
time a native band with flageolets and drums was playing, then would
follow a brass band, afterwards the bagpipes playing Scotch tunes. In
the Hall at the lower end were dancing boys, singers, and musicians.
These continued their performances during lunch, which was brought in
at three o’clock. For me there was a slight innovation. His Highness
ordered a dinner-napkin to be placed on the little table in front of
me. The waiter did not quite understand the management of it, for he
insisted upon one edge of it being put on the table under the plate and
the other on my knees: finally, however, I was allowed to have it my
own way, chiefly by the Armenian’s instrumentality: learning all about
these things was part of his education in England.

After dinner came fruit--cherries and mulberries, and finally
cigarettes and tea. Then I asked permission to withdraw and came away.

In August the cholera, which had returned to Kabul, began again to
attain serious proportions. I had drawn up with some care a Paper on
the precautions to be adopted to prevent a return of the disease. I was
perforce compelled to allow the Hindustani Interpreter--the Gnat--to
take possession of it for the purpose of translation. I need scarcely
say that I never saw or heard anything of the paper afterwards. The
Armenian at this time was very busily employed in translating for some
others of the Englishmen, for the supply of Interpreters was lamentably
small. In the Hospitals I, of course, could manage without one, but for
conversations with His Highness or for the translation of writings my
knowledge of the language was inadequate.

Though none of the English were seized with cholera, the climate of
Kabul affected the health of most of them deleteriously. Some had
fever severely: others bowel complaints; and the gardener, Mr. Wild,
a Yorkshireman, who had been working very hard in the sun, laying out
gardens and digging, went down with heat apoplexy. He was dangerously
ill, and I attended him; but some interesting and engaging scoundrel
spread the report that he was shirking his work and lying intoxicated
in his room. As he received an order to leave the service I wrote to
His Highness detailing the facts of the case. His Highness at once
desired Wild to be brought to Paghman, as soon as his condition would
allow. When he was taken there His Highness most kindly kept him in
the cool air of the mountains until he recovered. After this Wild, by
my advice, wore a turban in the sun instead of a solar topee. A pith
topee would have been a sufficient protection, but there was none to be
got in the bazaars, and sending money to Peshawur for anything was a
procedure of doubtful success.

[Sidenote: Illness of Prince Nasrullah.]

One day a soldier on horseback arrived at my house to call me to visit
Prince Nasrullah who, he said, was ill. His Highness at this time was
living in a bungalow set in a beautiful garden on the slope near the
Paghman Mountains. I started off immediately. After a nine or ten
miles’ ride we reached Prince Nasrullah’s bungalow, and at once I was
shown into the room where the Prince was sitting. It appeared to be
full of people--Officers, Hakims, Pages, and Chamberlains.

After the usual salutations a chair was placed for me, and tea and
cigarettes brought. The Prince held a polite conversation with me for
some little while, and I began to wonder if I had not misunderstood the
messenger, when he said His Highness was ill. Presently, however, the
Prince explained that he was suffering great pain. I enquired where
the pain seized him. He said that a worm had partly eaten one of his
teeth, and this caused him pain. I thought it quite likely that this
would be painful, and asked, might I examine the tooth. An arm-chair
was placed in a convenient position facing the window, and His Highness
seated himself, politely opening his mouth to allow me every facility
in examining the worm-eaten tooth.

After a careful examination I gave my opinion that the tooth should be
removed. The Prince at once consented to the operation, and a soldier
was sent galloping off to the Kabul Hospital for the case of tooth
instruments. The Prince conversed with me cheerfully for a time while
I smoked. By-and-bye he seemed to become thoughtful, and presently he
said he was a little doubtful about the advisability of removing the
tooth: perhaps the application of a suitable medicine might relieve the
pain and check the disease. I explained that the immediate pain might
indeed be removed by a medicine, but that it would probably return,
and that the disease had made such progress that the tooth would, if
left, be a source of constant annoyance. His Highness was silent for a
time, but presently he expressed his doubts as to the possibility of
extracting the tooth; so far as he could judge there was nothing but a
shell left: was it not exceedingly likely that the shell would crush
up and leave him in a worse plight than he at present was? I said that
a calamity of that nature was of course possible, as he, in his wisdom
had foreseen, but that my hopes and prayers were that it might not
occur. By-and-bye the messenger arrived with the tooth-case. The Prince
again weighed the matter carefully, and he desired the two chief Hakims
in the room to consult and give their opinion. I do not know what they
said but they looked unutterably wise.

After a considerable amount of discussion, in which I took no part,
the Prince suddenly decided that the operation should be performed. He
seated himself in the chair: a Page at my request held His Highness’s
astrakhan hat: another held the chillimchi or spittoon: and a third a
silver cup containing water.

I suggested that His Highness should seize the arms of the chair and
hold them tight; then he opened his mouth. An attendant handed me the
forceps, which had been warmed: I fitted them round the neck of the
offending member and pushed them well home: a twist of the wrist and
the tooth was out. His Highness made no remark during the operation,
but at the critical moment he patted his feet on the ground. He was, I
believe, exceedingly gratified that the operation was successful, for
not only did he present me with a suit of clothes, which unfortunately
were much too small for me, but he politely said that the operation had
not hurt him.

[Sidenote: Effect of Example.]

Glancing up as soon as it was over, I saw that the soldiers of the
bodyguard had formed themselves in double line from the window down the
garden, and were forming an interested row of spectators. Immediately
afterwards several of them begged me to perform a similar operation
upon them. I glanced at the Prince for permission, which he kindly
granted: then, seating the men on the ground one after another, I
removed such teeth as they desired. One reservation alone I made: when
a tooth had not the slightest appearance of disease--not a speck--I
refused to extract it, at any rate that day. The unfortunates who could
not have their teeth out seemed quite hurt: why should I draw other
men’s teeth and not theirs? I promised, therefore, to do them this
favour as soon as they could prove to my satisfaction that their teeth
were “worm-eaten.”

One day, a fortnight or so after this, I went with Mr. Pyne, Mr.
Collins, and some others of the English, to Paghman to hold a
discussion before the Amîr concerning two of the Englishmen who had
allowed their disgust of Oriental life to influence their conduct,
and being _ennuié_, had for some time indulged unduly in alcoholic
stimulant. His Highness treated the whole matter as a joke. One of the
workmen being unnecessary was allowed to resign. The other was to stay.
As the latter was exceedingly well acquainted with the manufacture of
war material His Highness decided that if he would work two days in the
week he might employ the other five as best pleased him. This decision
had a beneficial effect upon the man, and he worked well; previously
his excesses had had a very serious effect upon his nervous system.

During the conversation that followed the discussion Mr. Collins
happened to mention the game of chess. His Highness said he should
much like to see the game as played by the English. Mr. Collins at
once challenged me. It was years since I had played regularly, and the
last game I had had was in Turkestan, when my opponent, after beating
me ignominiously, had finally given me a game out of courtesy: I never
was any good at chess. I said I would play Mr. Collins if His Highness
would give me the benefit of his advice.

The Amîr said certainly he would do so. Accordingly the chessmen were
brought. A table was placed in front of His Highness, Mr. Collins sat
one side and I the other, and the game began.

I soon found I was no match for Mr. Collins, and I relied almost
entirely upon the Amîr. I wish I could remember the details of the
game, but I simply made, mechanically, the moves that the Amîr
directed. We won the game. Mr. Collins said His Highness played a bold
game with his Castles, and that he would take a good second class among
the chess players of London.

After that Collins played one of the Courtiers and beat him. This old
man was reckoned to be one of the best players next to His Highness,
and the Amîr made such unmerciful fun of him for losing, that the old
man wanted to go out and hang himself. However, he was not allowed to
do so, for His Highness challenged him to a game and beat him. Mr. Pyne
and the others not interested in chess had departed. For us who stayed,
dinner was served, and we left the Palace at two in the morning.

[Sidenote: Foresight of Armenian.]

Meanwhile the Armenian had been for some little while preparing winter
quarters for me in the west wing of my house, which faced south and was
protected from the winds.

I had told him that there was no need to make these elaborate
preparations, as I was going away on leave for the winter. He answered--

“Per-haps! Per-haps not! I make him ready.”

As the Autumn was drawing to a close I began to wonder whether
leave would indeed be granted to me for the winter according to His
Highness’s words. I wrote, therefore, to enquire. His Highness answered
that in view of the fact that the cholera, though doubtless dying out,
was still lurking in the town, he should wish me to remain in the
country till the following spring.

I was glad of my Winter Quarters.

Work at the Hospitals went on as usual until November, when I was sent
for to Paghman to paint the portrait of Prince Mahomed Omer.

Cholera had died out, but small-pox invaded Kabul, and in its train
came erysipelas.

In Paghman I was located in a khirgar--the Turkoman wigwam I have
described. It was also my studio, the light being obtained by moving a
flap of canvas from the top.

Before I commenced the portrait Her Highness the Sultana sent me a
present of sweets and cashmere embroidery, and when all my preparations
were complete the little Prince, accompanied by his tutor and Page
boys, came for the first sitting. He asked me to make a sketch of him
on paper before I began the painting. I did so, and handed it to him.
It seemed to amuse him highly, for he threw back his head and laughed
heartily. Whether the act was a childlike mimicry of his father or
not I cannot say, but it reminded me most strongly of the Amîr. After
that when he came for a sitting he was always merry and bright, and I
managed to get a really expressive likeness of him. He was dressed in a
gold-embroidered military tunic, hussar fashion, trousers, high boots,
and a fur busby. On the breast was an emerald surrounded by pearls. The
belt was profusely adorned with diamonds, as was his watch chain; and
on the busby was a large emerald. His sword hilt and scabbard were of
gold. He was seated in a tall chair, made especially for him; over the
knees, as the weather was cold, was a beautiful fur rug. On one side of
the chair stood his “Commander-in-Chief,” Mahomed Omer, son of Perwana
Khan, and on the other a Page boy--a slave taken in war, who had a
singularly pretty face. This boy, however, had not the intelligent
expression of the Prince, nor had his eyes the brilliancy of his
master’s. It was simply a pretty, weary, mournful face, and therefore
in the picture it did not take from the beauty of the Prince’s face.
The “Commander-in-Chief,” though intelligent looking, was plain, so
that in looking at the picture the eye was caught immediately by the
Prince’s face.


_Prince Mahomed Omer and his Commander-in-Chief_

_from a photograph by Arthur Collins, F.G.T._]

One day the Prince presented me with a slave boy, telling me to choose
which of his Pages I preferred. It was rather an embarrassing offer,
for one cannot refuse a gift from a member of the Royal Family, nor in
fact from any Afghan, without offending the giver. Of what use was a
small slave boy to me? True, I could sell him, or give him away, but my
principles were not in accordance with that line of action. I therefore
told His Highness that I was busy just then with the painting, but that
I would consider the matter and let him know in the course of a day or
two which boy I preferred. His Highness forgot all about it, as I hoped
he would.

[Sidenote: A Lesson in Courtesy.]

Another time he heard one of the Page boys speak of me as “the
Feringhi.” It was remarkable to see the Prince’s look of indignation
and anger, it so exactly resembled the Amîr’s. He called the boy up and
spoke very severely to him, ordering him in the future to address me as
“Doctor Sahib.” As a punishment he made him bow to all the other boys
and call them “Sahib.” The Prince was a little over three years of age
at this time.

As there were three portraits instead of one to paint I was some time
at Paghman, and became skilled in the art of eating pilau and kourma
with my fingers, and eschewing forks and knives, for the Sultana
had insisted upon my being the guest of the Prince. I brought with
me, beside my guard, the Priest Compounder, who knew some English,
and only one servant, an Afghan. Accommodation for servants was
limited in Paghman, and though one could allow an Afghan servant to
sleep on the ground in one’s tent, one could not have a Hindustani
in the same position. In the evenings, after dinner, the Prince’s
“Commander-in-Chief,” little Mahomed Omer, came in. He sat on the
ground and chattered away, eating grapes while I smoked and aired my

While the painting was in progress Mr. Pyne visited Paghman to hold an
interview with the Amîr; he came and stayed with me. It was snowing
when he arrived, and I found he had fever. As he sat shivering,
unable to get warm, I recommended the “sandali,” which he had never
yet tried. The charcoal was brought all glowing in the brazier; the
wooden framework and the quilt were arranged, and we sat on the carpet
amidst the large pillows, drawing the quilt over our knees. There is
no need to be shaking with fever in order to appreciate a sandali:
nevertheless, when one _is_ in that unfortunate position a sandali
seems one of the wisest inventions of man. Mr. Pyne thought so at the
time. I would not, however, say that a sandali is to be recommended
when more sanitary means of becoming warm are to be procured. A dose or
two of quinine and Mr. Pyne was soon all right.

We went for a ride the next morning up the mountain: the snow was not
thick and the sun shone brightly. We reached a gorge sheltered from
the wind, where we could feel the heat of the sun, and got off and
smoked a cigar. I did not get much painting done while Pyne was my
guest, for the spirit moved him to talk much.

In the dusk of the evening the Priests came and intoned their prayers
near my wigwam. “Allah hû, Allah-il-Allah, Ressûl Allah!”

When the portrait was finished I sent it to Her Highness, the Sultana,
for approval. She was delighted with it, but suggested that I had
perhaps made the cheeks too pink: accordingly, I altered it. She wished
me to show it to His Highness, the Amîr.

[Sidenote: Waiting at the Door.]

The next day I took it to the Palace. The only available Interpreter
being the “Gnat,” this gentleman took the opportunity to prevent--as
I afterwards found--the report of my arrival from being taken to the
Amîr, and I was kept waiting some hours, till at last I got up and
was leaving the Palace when I saw His Highness descending the stairs.
I waited, therefore, until he approached, and then bowed. He seemed
surprised to see me and asked how I was. I showed him the picture which
my servant was carrying. He was very pleased with it, and said it was
faultless: he added--and this pleased the Sultana exceedingly--that the
portrait of the little Prince was exactly like that I had painted of
himself, except that it was smaller.

The Priest Compounder, who was with me, mentioned that I had been
waiting some hours at the Palace. His Highness seemed both surprised
and annoyed. He told me that no report had been made to him of my
arrival, and that there was no reason for my having been kept waiting.

His Highness’s words concerning the painting were, of course, reported
at once to the Sultana, and she sent word to me that she would be
pleased if I remained at Paghman a day or two longer: the Amîr,
herself, and the Prince would then be departing for Kabul, and she
desired me to accompany the Prince. I was myself to take charge of the
picture on the journey, and when she summoned me I was to formally
deliver it at the Harem Serai. Accordingly, I waited.

On the morning of our departure six or seven bullocks were slaughtered,
by order of the Sultana, and presented to the Paghmanis. The manner
of slaughtering was peculiar. The butcher seized the nostril and one
horn of the victim, twisted the head sideways over the neck and threw
the animal down. Putting his knee on the horn to extend the neck, he
drew his short knife and cut the throat: the inevitable “Allah akbar”
being shouted at the same time by the crowd. It was a striking but
disagreeable sight to see the blood hiss on to the snow: it was so
unpleasantly suggestive of what might happen to oneself under certain
circumstances. The hopeless position of the creatures as they stood
“waiting to be murdered,” rather shook my nerves. However, it taught me
one thing--that my health was more affected by the climate than I liked
to think: for on my arrival in Kabul, finding there were two delicate
eye operations waiting for me to perform, I felt I must postpone them
for a day or two.

As the whole Court was moving to Kabul the traffic was enormous. We
had first snow, then sleet, then rain, and the road became a quagmire:
mud--we on horseback were plastered from head to foot. The Royal family
drove in carriages, and those of the Courtiers who possessed them, in
buggies and tongas. There were several blocks on the road, but when we
got through them we galloped. The picture was put in a palanquin of the
Sultana’s under the charge of my Afghan servant. The man was greatly
amused at a beggar woman by the wayside addressing him as “Bibi Sahib,”
and asking alms.

For some little time I had been rather worried about money matters,
for although acting upon the Amîr’s suggestion, I had in August sent
a firman for six months’ pay to my bankers in Bombay, with orders to
collect from the native Agent in that town; up to now, December, none
of it had been paid. I wished, therefore, to see His Highness and
inform him.

[Sidenote: The “Gnat.”]

The Armenian being engaged in interpreting for the other Europeans,
I had no one to make an appointment for me with His Highness except
the Hindustani Gnat. A day or two after our arrival in Kabul this man
called at my house, informing me that His Highness would see me that
evening. Knowing that the truth was to him as naught, I doubted the
accuracy of this information. I was correct in my supposition: he had
made no appointment. However, it was quite as well I did not see His
Highness, for a day or two afterwards I received a letter from my
bankers saying that at last the Agent had disgorged: they were able,
therefore, to transmit the money to London. I sent no more firmans to
the Agent.

Just before Christmas I was sent for by His Highness. I managed to
obtain possession of the Armenian, and taking him with me I went to
the Erg Palace. It was on a Friday, and there was no one at the Palace
except the Amîr’s uncle, Sirdar Usuf, and the ordinary attendants. His
Highness was seated at the sandali. He was not dressed in European
costume, but was wearing a silken robe and a small white turban. I was
afraid His Highness was unwell and had sent for me on that account.
Happily it was not so. After tea had been drank he told me that in the
Palace when prayer-time came many people prayed, and that there were
hanging on the walls pictures representing people--the English Houses
of Parliament, and also the portrait of himself that I had painted in
Turkestan. In the Mahomedan religion, he explained, it is not allowed
to pray in any room where there is a pictorial representation of a man.
He said that he wished, therefore, to hang these pictures in another
room, and he desired me to paint three large pictures of scenery to
take their place: the pictures were to be painted on leather, so that
they might last as long as the Palace itself!

He desired me, for the second time, to paint a full-length portrait of
himself, and expressed his intention of sending to me four of the most
accomplished artists that the country could produce in order that I
might give them instruction in portrait-painting. Also, he informed me
that my leave of absence would be granted before “Nau Rôz,” March 21st.

It occurred to me at the time that with all these commissions on hand,
Nau Rôz and after Nau Rôz would see me still in Kabul.

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Turban.]

I do not know what emotion my face expressed, but as I sat holding
my turban on my knee, His Highness suddenly desired me to bring
him the turban that he might examine it. It was a good “Lungi,” of
fawn-coloured Cashmere, embroidered on both sides, which had been given
me by a patient, one of the Court Pages. His Highness said he was
wearing a better kind that he had lately sent for from Cashmere, and
he directed a Page to bring it. It certainly was better than mine; a
white Cashmere delicately embroidered with silk. It was wound in the
Amîr’s careless fashion round a Turkestan cap of bright colours. I was
admiring it when, to my surprise, His Highness directed me to put it on.

After a moment’s hesitation at being covered in his presence I did so,
and His Highness desired me to keep it.

Gratification and pride were now the dominant sensations;
disappointment vanished into the haze of the past. No longer was “leave
of absence” remembered. What was “Nau Rôz” or “after Nau Rôz?” Was
I not wearing the King’s turban! The congratulations that everyone
offered when I withdrew from the Presence were received with a lofty
dignity suitable to the situation.

I had only a strip or so of canvas, and I painted a head on leather
to show His Highness how difficult it was, for me at any rate, to
get anything like an effect on that material, and I pointed out the
fact that a skin of leather large enough for a landscape was almost
impossible to obtain. A message, therefore, was sent to Bombay for
canvas and paints.

On Christmas Day, Mr. Pyne and the other English called upon Mr.
Collins and myself, who were living in the town, and after a ride in
the afternoon, we all dined together in the Workshops, drinking the
health of the Queen, standing. A congratulatory message also was sent
to Her Majesty from the Kabul Colony, to be telegraphed from Peshawur.




    Afghan artists: their “style.” Presentation of the little Prince’s
    portrait. His quarters at the Palace: presents. The Prince as a
    host. After dark, a walk in the Kabul Bazaars. Before the Amîr: the
    shock: the result, landscapes. A fresh commission. The “Gnat’s”
    interpreting. The Amîr’s answer. Cogitation: decision. Art pupils
    before the Amîr. His Highness’s criticism. The Amîr’s kindly
    remark:--an interpretation thereof. The miner’s dog: other dogs:
    shattered nerves and surgical operations. The worries of Kabul
    life. To Paghman: the glens: the spy, and his reception. Sketches.
    Before the Amîr. A fresh commission. Completion. Adieux.

[Sidenote: Afghan Artists.]

Two days after Christmas the most skilled of the artists arrived at my
house to learn portrait-painting. They could all draw, and one of them
showed talent of no mean order. The first thing, I found, was to teach
them to draw a head life-size: formerly, they would do one the size
of the thumb nail. The next, to teach them to draw heads in different
positions, and not in the one conventional position to which they were
accustomed; after that to show them how to put in their shadows crisply
and with decision, having due regard to the relative value of each. For
models I called up my Afghan servants and the soldiers of the guard.
I have brought away with me many of the drawings of these artists,
so that I have an interesting series of “types” of men born and bred
in Afghanistan. The most skilful of the artists gave an almost
Holbeinesque look to his drawings. They were perhaps somewhat hard,
though he began to acquire, before I left, a freer style of drawing.

How they would have turned out as colourists I do not know, for we
never got on to painting.

At the beginning of January I received an order from the Sultana to
present formally to the little Prince Mahomed Omer the portrait I had
painted of him in Paghman.

Accompanied by the Armenian, I went to the Erg Palace. The little
Prince’s quarters were in a part of the Palace to which I had never
before been admitted. It was a recent addition, built at the extreme
west, behind the enclosure of the Amîr’s Pavilion, and high up
overlooking the moat. I had noticed the building in progress when I
was attending the Amîr, and had wondered whom the apartments were
intended for. We were conducted up a flight of winding stone steps,
along corridors and through ante-rooms, till we reached the Prince’s
quarters. There were both “winter” and “summer” rooms, and the little
Prince himself conducted me in a dignified manner to the different
apartments, and showed them to me with great pride.

The winter rooms, where he was at that time located, were warmly
curtained and carpeted, and on the hearth, at either end, a great wood
fire was blazing. The summer room, more elaborately decorated, opened
on to a stone platform or balcony, some twenty feet above the moat,
and from here was a splendid view across the Shahbagh Valley to the
Baghi-Buland, where the Amîr was building himself another Palace. In
the distance was the Paghman offshoot of the Hindu Kush range.

Sweets, tea, and cigarettes were brought, some Cashmere embroidery was
given me, and a large tray of sweetmeats for the servants to carry
away. The Sultana also desired me to accept a present of a thousand
rupees as soon as it was collected from the “tax-payers.” I, however,
left the country before it was collected, but I have heard since that
the Amîr was so annoyed at the delay that he fined Her Highness an
equal sum in consequence.

[Sidenote: The Little Prince as a Host.]

The little Prince was very smart in a crimson velvet coat, with emerald
and diamond ornaments, white cloth trousers, patent-leather boots, and
a fur busby.

The accommodation in the Palace for the little man was more elaborate
than that provided for any of his elder brothers, and he was deputed at
this early age to receive visitors on behalf of the Sultana.

He received Mr. Collins and myself in these rooms some time afterwards,
when we paid a ceremonial visit to Her Highness, and after ordering
tea and cigarettes to be brought, he proceeded to entertain us in
the way that struck him as most suitable--he sent for his toys. They
were mechanical ones from London and Paris. There was a musical cat
that played the violin, another that sprang from a basket, and so
on. He gave a demonstration of their working, watching our faces at
the time to see if we were amused. We were duly amused. He seemed
highly delighted, for he suddenly ordered us to laugh once more. We
promptly obeyed. He asked us then if we would like some sweets: on
our assenting, called for pen and paper and wrote an order upon his
storekeeper for a tray full.

The writing, however, was understandable only by those who had heard
the order given. When the sweets were brought he warned us not to eat
them too fast lest we should be ill. He seemed not disinclined to join
us, but his tutor hinted to him in a whisper that he had eaten enough

He spoke in Persian, and I asked if he understood Pushtu. The tutor
said that he did not at present speak that language, but that he was
learning. The Prince, eager to show his knowledge, said that, on the
contrary, he could speak Pushtu, and he gave us an example. He had
apparently picked up the words from some of his attendants, for it was
not language such as a Prince should use. When we asked permission
to withdraw, the Prince shook hands with us, politely saying,
“Khush-amadêd,” “Welcome,” and we bowed ourselves out.

In January the frost making the ground so hard and slippery that it
was dangerous to ride on horseback, Mr. Collins and I went for long
afternoon walks. One day, having made rather a longer round than usual,
we arrived at the suburbs of the town just as night fell. It was a part
of the town I had never been in before; however, there was a moon,
and we had a soldier with us. The streets of Kabul, as I have already
said, are not straight and neatly paved and lighted. They are most
eccentric in their general arrangement, and are lit by an occasional--a
very occasional--oil lamp, a saucer of earthenware with a wick thrown
in, which gives but a dim smoky light. There were a great many people
about, but few took any notice of us or we of anyone. Occasionally
some one would say, “The English Doctor,” or “English,” and though I
wore native costume with turban and cloak, Collins was dressed as a
European, with fur cap and coat. A few years ago a walk in the dusk in
Kabul would certainly have been fatal to two Europeans, but now--we had
no weapons and needed none. There seemed really less danger than there
would have been in walking through some of the back streets of London.

At the end of February when my three landscapes were finished, I took
them, with some drawings that my pupils had finished, to show to the

His Highness was occupying a suite of rooms in the Erg Palace that at
one time was Prince Habibullah’s Harem Serai. We were shown into a
large, well-furnished room with a wood fire burning on the hearth. A
small scent-fountain was playing on the table, and the room was crowded
with flowers, some cut and some growing in pots. The Amîr being fond of
flowers, his Palace is supplied during the winter from Jelalabad, where
the climate is always hot.

[Sidenote: A Shock.]

There were not many people in the room--some half-dozen of the chief
officials of the country and several Page boys. The Amîr himself did
not look well. He was dark under the eyes and thinner, and he looked as
though he had been bled.

I asked if he were not well, and he said he had been troubled with gout.

This gave me a shock, and when I found that he had again called the
Hakims to attend him, I at once determined to leave his service at
the first opportunity. I had a very vivid recollection of my former
experiences under similar circumstances, and had not the slightest
desire to have them repeated.

His Highness was very kind and courteous, and he was pleased with the
landscapes. He desired me however, to paint two more, one of them to be
a view of Paghman, including the Palace and the Harem Serai.

I was surprised at this and far from pleased, for the snow lay thick
at Paghman, and sketching there would be an impossibility for weeks to
come. I said to His Highness that there were as yet no leaves on the
trees, but he said--

“Khair ast!” “That is nothing--you can paint leaves on the trees in the

I showed him the work of the art students, and he was greatly pleased
with their progress.

As the Armenian was ill with fever I had been compelled to take the
Hindustani Gnat to translate, and I said to him:

“Seeing that His Highness has been ill and has not desired me to treat
him, he probably does not wish me to return to this country when my
leave expires. Enquire if this is so.”

The Interpreter said in Persian to His Highness: “The Doctor asks
whether it is Amîr Sahib’s wish that he bring Mrs. Gray with him to
this country when he returns?”

I had not asked this. His Highness answered:

“Most certainly; I said so before,” and addressing me he said:

“I look upon you as one of my household; I wish you and your wife to
live here permanently: going to England for a time and again returning.”

He then repeated his promise of defraying the expenses of the journey
and that of the two English maid-servants who were to be brought;
he indicated the position where a house was to be built for us, near
his own Palace, and talked for some time as to the arrangement of the
house; and he said as regards the veil over the face, that it was, for
a European lady, entirely optional.

[Sidenote: Cogitation: Decision.]

It was very kind of His Highness to make these promises, but of what
use were they to me? I had returned to the country after my first leave
because I had promised to do so: I had imagined, and, indeed, had been
given to understand, that having tested my good faith, the Amîr would,
if he were taken ill, not keep me as a sort of _dernier ressort_,
but call me to attend him before he was maltreated by the Hakims.
Apparently this was not his intention. Such being the case, his service
appeared to me to be no longer desirable, at any rate for a married
man. The risks were too great.

I set to work and painted one landscape, and when that was finished and
I was waiting for the weather to allow me to go to Paghman, I painted
for my wife a portrait of myself in costume, for I guessed I should
never paint another portrait of myself in Kabul.

About the middle of March I had again an interview with His Highness:
I wished to show him the progress of my art pupils, and to exhibit the
fresh landscape. He was then occupying the “Bostan Serai,” a new Palace
or bungalow which was just completed. It was situated outside the South
Gate of the Erg Palace.

I had set the artists to draw a portrait of the Armenian (to ensure at
the interview the presence of an Interpreter whom I could trust), and
of the sergeant of my guard. They and the pupils accompanied me to the
Palace, the Hindustani Gnat attaching himself to our train.

After passing through a courtyard where there were soldiers and Page
boys, we entered the garden of the Palace. I sat on a seat there while
His Highness was informed of my arrival.

Some military Officers and Secretaries came through whom I knew and
shook hands with. Presently came the two little Princes, Hafiz Ullah
and Amin Ullah, pretty boys, with fair hair and white skins. They
stopped and spoke to me, and the elder, Prince Hafiz Ullah, showed
me some photographs of himself that were taken by an itinerant Hindu
photographer who had recently come to Kabul: they were very badly done.
The Princes then shook hands and went in to salaam His Highness. They
were accompanied by their tutor and several Page boys.

In a few minutes I was called. His Highness was seated in an easy-chair
in the porch overlooking the garden. Everyone was standing. The porch
was three or four steps higher than the terrace where I stood. After
the usual salutations I showed the landscape. His Highness was very
interested in it, and I then exhibited the portrait of myself. This he
said was faultless. He added, laughingly,

“You have painted the fur the same colour as the moustache, and the
turban the same colour as the eyes.”

By his direction it was then fixed up on the wall in front of him.

When the drawings of the pupils were brought forward the Armenian and
the sergeant had to stand in position in order to be compared with the
drawings. Some of them His Highness praised, some he found fault with,
but he expressed himself as being very pleased with the progress the
artists had made, and stated his intention of giving each of them a
present. Before I came away I said to the Interpreter:--

“If His Highness will accept the portrait I have painted of myself I
shall be honoured, but, if not, will he kindly allow me to send it to
my wife in London?”

[Sidenote: Amîr’s Kindly Remark.]

His Highness said:--

“I would rather see your face here for many years to come than have the
best portrait that ever was painted.”

I was gratified by the kindness of the remark: but it occurred to me
that His Highness had received information concerning my intention of
leaving his service.

At this time the English miner returned from Jigdilik, where he had
been superintending the Spinel Rubies mines. As there was no room in
the Workshops I offered him quarters in my house. He lived in the wing
that Mr. Collins occupied.

A day or two afterwards he bought a half-bred bulldog of a man in the
bazaar, and he tied it up in my garden. Every evening he went off to
the Workshops to play cards with the other men, and the dog lifted
up his voice and howled continuously. Looking at the affair from
my own personal standpoint, the dog was undoubtedly an abominable
nuisance, but from the miner’s point of view, probably this was not
so. I considered in my own mind whether it would purely be selfish if
I told him to take his dog with him, or otherwise dispose of it: I
felt sorely tempted to do so, but I refrained. I did casually remark
that the dog mourned greatly when he was away; the hint did not have
the desired effect, for the miner shouted cheerily, “Did he?” and he
laughed a stentorian laugh. It was an experience to go through, when he
and the Armenian shouted jokes at one another in my small winter room.
However, he was my guest at the time; but I confess I looked upon it as
a special mercy that he was fond of cards and the society of the other
English workmen at the shops.

But the dog! I remember it. He began with a short yelp, which he
prolonged into a whining howl. Then he began another howl, and ended up
with two or three sharp yelps: there were many changes and variations
all painfully distinct in the silence of the night. One evening it was
almost too much for me, and I nearly gave way: I was about to send a
note to the shops, thus:--

“DEAR MINER,--What is the price of your dog? I want to buy it,
so that I can, without evil motives being assigned to me, poison it. My
nervous system is becoming slowly shattered. Don’t apologise.--Yours,
very truly,----”

But then, from the miner’s point of view this would, doubtless, be a
very selfish and heartless letter, and I decided not to send it.

Distinctly there were dogs enough in the neighbourhood. The Armenian
had a dog, and he would bring it sometimes in the morning and tie it up
all day. This also mourned: I do not like dogs. It struck me afterwards
that perhaps I was thought to enjoy their music. If the muscles of the
face, in an unguarded moment, twitched spasmodically at a more than
usually penetrating howl, I endeavoured to change it into a pleasant
smile. To a medical observer I should imagine one’s appearance at these
moments would be interesting.

The day I was nearly forgetting the duties of hospitality in sending a
note to the miner, I had had an operation to perform, the removal of an
eye: the day before to take a tumour from the forehead: also to put up
the broken wing of a heron in splints. Prince Habibullah had shot the
bird, and finding it was not killed, he sent it to me to be surgically
attended to. In the morning I had to visit and prescribe for a sick
tiger: this patient, by the way, broke loose from the attendants, but
was too ill to do any harm.

I was not yet able to start for Paghman on account of the rain and
the violent storms of thunder and lightning. It was bad enough in
Kabul with the road like quagmires, but up in the hills it would be
infinitely worse. It was rumoured that I was to start for home directly
the Paghman picture was finished; it was also rumoured that I was not
to start till the end of the summer.

[Sidenote: Shattered Nerves.]

Mr. Collins had for some time been considerably disturbed in his mind,
in that he had not been for several months sent on any geologising
expedition. He was “severely let alone,” and was heartily sick of Kabul
life in consequence. The reason of this I have mentioned in an earlier
part of the narrative, where I have drawn a parallel between his and
Captain Griesbach’s experiences. The difficulty in Kabul is to avoid
worrying one’s self into misery. It is galling to think that a spy can
whisper what he likes behind one’s back, and one can do nothing: for
being never accused one has nothing to answer; knowing, nevertheless,
that some mischief is working. As for rumours, one can believe as
little or as much as one pleases, for a report is just as likely to be
false as true: there is, however, generally some substratum of fact
upon which the structure is built.

At the beginning of April, I received the order to proceed to Paghman.

His Highness gave me a firman, ordering the Governor of Paghman to
provide a house; food at the price His Highness pays, and anything else
I wanted. Pack-horses were procured, and I sent off the servants with
camp-bedstead, table, chair, kitchen utensils, and so on, including
tea, sugar, and candles, and corn for the horses, for in Paghman, at
this time of the year, there was little to be got from the villagers
except meat and bread.

The next day, after breakfast, I rode to Paghman, accompanied by Mr.
Collins and a guard. The snow was still on the mountains, but had
disappeared in the valley of Paghman. We were quartered in the house
of Sirdar Usuf Khan, the Amîr’s uncle. It was, of course, empty,
except for the furniture I had sent over. We spent the rest of the day
wandering about the hills and glens, seeking a suitable spot from which
to make my drawings. Mr. Collins brought a gun and shot a few birds,
among them was a kestrel. I noticed the wild tulips were in bloom; they
had six pale pink petals, each with a darker median streak.

After walking and climbing a good many miles we found the best view of
the Palace and Harem Serai was to be obtained from a hilly offshoot
of the mountains bounding the north side of the valley: from the
Pir-i-Buland peak.

[Sidenote: The Spy of the Gnat.]

When we got back to the house, one of my Afghan servants told me
that an _employé_ of the Hindustani Gnat was hanging about in the
neighbourhood, and that while we were away he had attempted to enter
the house. After we had had dinner, Mr. Collins and I walked in the
garden, and I caught sight of the man spoken of. I knew his face at
once as a spy. Apparently he had “squared” the guard, for he was
creeping in at the entrance. What his object was I never knew, unless
it were to peep about and carry a report to his master of what he saw.
Mr. Collins and I suddenly stepped in his path and asked him what he
wanted. He seemed rather taken aback and said he wanted nothing.

I told him that, as we could not have the supreme happiness of being of
service to him, we would not detain him longer; nor would we trouble
him to call again lest he should be put to the inconvenience, not to
say danger, of being shot at. He did not appear again.

In a couple of days I had finished my sketches, and we rode back to
Kabul. I then set to work to paint my picture. Meanwhile, the Hospital
work had to go on as usual, and operations to be performed, so that it
was the beginning of May before the picture was finished.

I then took it to the Bostan Serai Palace, which His Highness was still
occupying, to show him. He was very pleased, and went over all the
details of the picture with interest. The usual tea and cigarettes were
brought, and His Highness sent me a plate of sweetmeats from his table.
He talked for some time afterwards on natural history and philology,
and said he was intending to build another Palace at Paghman. I showed
him some vesical calculi I had removed by operation, and then asked
when he would wish me to start for England. From the expression of His
Highness’s face, I saw I had made a mistake in asking. However, the
expression was only momentary, and His Highness said I should start at
the beginning of the next month. One thing, however, he had overlooked;
the pictures--he liked them exceedingly, and would hang them in the
Palace he was then using--but for the Erg Palace, for which they were
painted, they were the wrong shape; these were longer from side to
side; they should have been longer from above downwards. This was
indeed the fact, as I saw directly he called my attention to it, and I
determined, therefore, to paint three more before I left. But, tobah!
tobah! I was very sick of it all. I set to work again and called in the
art students to see how the deed was done.

To find what you really can do, work with the “spur” well in. I painted
better than I had ever done--though, may be, that is not saying very

As soon as one picture was finished I began another, working all day
and every day. The Hospitals I left in the hands of the Hindustani
assistants and the Hakims; but I was sorry for the patients. One or two
cases, however, I attended to;--a Page boy, whom His Highness sent,
and whose finger it was necessary to amputate: and one of the keepers
of His Highness’s menagerie, who had been badly mauled by a tiger: a
lithotomy operation that had to be performed, and a few others.

While I was at work I received a letter from His Highness, directing
me to inform him as soon as I was ready to start, in order that the
firmans for pack-horses, tent, and guard might be made out.

[Sidenote: Adieux.]

Towards the end of May the pictures were finished. I had at this time
the pleasure of congratulating Prince Nasrullah on the birth of a son;
and after the pictures were presented, His Highness’s thanks received,
and my adieux made, I started on my long-deferred but greatly-desired
journey home. Mr. Collins, at the same time, sent in his resignation
and accompanied me. Just as I put my foot in the stirrup two patients
arrived:--the Page boy from the Palace, whose finger I had amputated,
and a girl from the Harem Serai, sent by the Sultana. However, I was
not very long in attending to them, and at last we were really off.




    Afghan court life from an English standpoint. The rise and fall
    of the Afghan Courtier. Untrustworthiness: the inevitable result.
    Intrigue: a similar result. Question of “cause” or “consequence.”
    Possibility of raising the moral plane: reasons in favour of. The
    Amîr’s obvious opinion. His Highness’s great work. Certain evils.
    Former condition of the middle classes: present condition: opening
    of the eyes: comparison with similar class in India. Progress
    in Afghanistan. Civilizing effect of the Amîr: his influence.
    Dost Mahomed’s rule: his character: comparison with Abdurrahman.
    Altered condition of country. The Amîr’s civilizing measures:
    drastic measures. Peaceful measures: education: the teaching of
    handicrafts: of art: the spreading of knowledge: prizes for good or
    original work. Personal fascination of the Amîr.

Though I have endeavoured, by detailing my own experiences in the
country, to give an idea of the present condition of Afghanistan
and the character of the ruler, one must not forget that we English
in the service were on an entirely different footing, as regards
the Amîr, from any of the natives of the country. As outsiders we
noted, sometimes with amused, sometimes with painful, interest, many
occurrences which, however, concerned us only in the abstract and not
in any personal way.

[Sidenote: Rise and Fall of the Official.]

For instance, I have shown that the Amîr has raised men of the lowest
rank, even slaves, to positions nearly the highest in the kingdom.
Similarly, men of the highest rank are degraded in a day to nearly the
lowest. A high official is one day riding through the streets dressed
in velvet and gold, with a great retinue of servants around him: a
day or two afterwards, in a shabby coat, he is creeping from door to
door to beg a little bread, and I wondered if this state of things
were the _consequence_, or is it the _cause_, of an Afghan’s utter
untrustworthiness, when he is put into a position of responsibility.

As an example:--A man is made Governor of a Province on a very
moderate salary, and presently the Amîr sees him in gorgeous attire,
and surrounded by crowds of servants and horses. We, foreigners even,
could see that the pay did not run to it--it was impossible; how much
more clearly, therefore, could the Amîr see it, and yet the custom was
invariable. After a few years the man is recalled to Kabul to make
out a statement of accounts as regards the revenue and taxes of the
province. He cannot do it. Forthwith his ill-gotten wealth is put in
the Treasury, his finery, and the shawls and diamonds of his wives, in
the Government stores, and he finds himself, as he deserved, a beggar
or in jail. The sufferers--the men who have been squeezed--are the
peasants and traders. When “gentlemen” behave in this way it is not to
be wondered at that the Amîr makes a slave a gentleman.

On the other hand, there are cases, perhaps, as numerous where a man
owes his fall not to any rascality of his own, but to the combination
and intrigue of his enemies. This, I suppose, must necessarily be under
a despotic Government, where one man has supreme power. Be he ever so
wise and just a man he cannot know everything, and there being only
one man to work upon, a clever scoundrel, who has the _entrée_ to the
Durbar, and who studies that one man’s disposition and moods, can oust
a better man than himself, if he works long enough. Sometimes a man
compounds with his enemies: each party knows something incriminating
about the other, and both keep silent from mutual fear. This state of
things has existed not in the reign of the present Amîr only, but for

As a spectator I have watched the play many a time; it is interesting,
as I said, though apt to be depressing. Sometimes it is simply a
comedy; but more often the ending is tragic.

Are these rapid rises and falls to be looked upon as the _consequence_
or are they the _cause_ of the moral condition of the Afghan? The
question is an important one, if we are looking forward to a civilized

Does an Afghan in power, knowing the certainty of a fall, deserved or
undeserved, say to himself,

“I have authority now, but sooner or later somebody will undermine me
in the Amîr’s regard. I had better make the most of my power while it
lasts: get all I can out of other people, and enjoy myself. The evil
day may be long deferred.”

Looking at it in this way, it is possible to imagine that the condition
of things is the cause of his behaviour.

On the other hand, is the moral nature of the Afghan utterly hopeless?
I do not mean does he lie, steal, murder, and betray, for we know he
has done that for ages; but I mean, is the nation incapable of being
raised to a higher moral condition?

[Sidenote: The Amîr’s Great Work.]

Their frank open-hearted manner and sense of hospitality; their love
of liberty and of home; their faithfulness (sometimes) to a friend in
adversity,--I have seen this in spite of widespread treachery; the
graceful gratitude for a favour conferred: all these seem to show that
the moving spirit of the race was once on a far higher moral plane than
it is now, and one would think, therefore, that they _are_ capable of
being raised to a condition vastly superior to their present state.

That the Amîr thinks so is clear, for he has commenced to raise them by
a system of education.

To say that Abdurrahman did not come to the throne by chance is to
utter a platitude. There was a work to be done that doubtless he only
could do. It was essential that the power of the “Barons,” the great
chiefs with rival interests, should be broken and their constant feuds
ended; that the country should be united under one head; that there
should be respect for authority, and thus a possibility established
of drawing the people from the slough of ignorance in which they are
wallowing. The Amîr has done and is doing, in this country over which
he has acquired nearly absolute control, a grand civilizing work.

Still, one cannot be blind to the fact that the usual evils of
a Despotic Government exist:--the instability of every official
appointment: the great evil of the “place-seeker” to which I have
referred: the oppression of the poor; and the grinding down of
the peasants and traders. These are enough to sap the life of any
government, for there can be no strength where there is no mutual trust.

It is impossible for the Amîr, though like Napoleon he employs a
complicated system of espionage, it is impossible for him to know
all the evil that exists. In the preceding reigns the oppression of
the middle and lower classes (the backbone of every country) was far
greater than it is now, but the people had the continual excitement of
constantly-recurring intertribal wars, when every Afghan is a soldier,
to draw their attention away from their own miserable condition. Now,
they have time to think, and though their condition is far better than
it was, they are beginning to see how bad it is--to make comparisons.

That Afghanistan has during the last ten years made considerable
strides toward civilization, there can, I think, be no doubt in the
minds of those who have had the opportunity of collecting sufficient
facts upon which to base an opinion. And that this progress has been
entirely due to the remarkable Prince who is now occupying the throne
of Afghanistan--Amîr Abdurrahman--requires but little proof.

We have only to compare the condition of the country and the “bent”
of the people at the present time with their condition a few years
ago, to bring out, in a very clear light, the civilizing effect of a
far-seeing, strong man’s personality.

[Sidenote: Personal Influence of the Amîr.]

Amîr Abdurrahman is absolute autocrat of Afghanistan. His is now the
only influence that has any lasting effect upon the people. There is no
Press to guide public opinion. The influence and power of the Priests
has been enormously curtailed. The Chief Priest--the Khani Mullah Khan
himself--though treated with respect by His Highness, the Amîr, has
scarcely more power, nor does he receive a greater share of attention
than one of the Civil magistrates. The opinion of the Amîr, delivered
in open Durbar, is the keynote from which all tunes are played. It
is caught up by the Chamberlains, the Court Officials, and Pages; it
reaches the bazaars, and soon the people join in the chorus. It is woe
to the man who utters a discordant note: people look at him askance and
draw out of his neighbourhood. Attention is directed to him, and unless
he alters his note he is--dismissed from the choir.

The Amîr is, as I have said, the Chief of the powerful Durani tribe.
This tribe has been from time immemorial more tolerant and more
civilized than any other of the tribes of Afghanistan: and from it
the native rulers of the country have been invariably drawn. When we
consider the Amîr’s marvellous personal influence, we can but see it is
a happy thing that his leaning is towards civilization and justice.

That it is so can be shown.

What was the condition of Afghanistan no further back than the time of
his grandfather, Amîr Dôst Mahomed, the great Amîr--“Amîr-i-Kabir”--as
the Afghans called him?

Dôst Mahomed was Amîr of the Kabul Province; his brother Ramdil
occupied Kandahar: and Herat was held independently by Shah Mahomed,
brother of Shah Shujah. This was in 1835. These chiefs were constantly
intriguing with Persia and Russia; and their conflicting interests and
personal jealousies brought the country into a condition so unsettled
as to be little better than Anarchy. War, and in its train, robbery
and murder were so constantly carried on, that it was most unsafe for
Afghans, and quite impossible for foreigners, to travel from one city
to another. So suddenly did fighting break out, that when travelling,
one found one’s self in danger of falling into the thick of it.
Caravans--such as ventured to start--made long and wearisome detours
to avoid battlefields. The more savage of the Afghan tribes delighted
in nothing more than the chances thus offered of unpunished highway
robbery and murder.

About the year 1850 Dôst Mahomed succeeded in annexing Turkestan, and
in 1854 he managed to evict Ramdil from Kandahar. Meanwhile, in Herat,
Shah Kamran succeeded his father, Mahmud; and at his death came his
minister, Yar Mahomed. The Persians at once advanced and took Herat:
Herat being the key of India--this necessitated British interference.
Sultan Jan, brother of Dôst Mahomed, was put in possession. He died
in 1862, and there were many claimants for the Chieftainship, each of
whom appealed to Persia. Dôst Mahomed therefore advanced with an army,
besieged, and took Herat. This was his last act, for he died in his
camp a few days after.

While Dôst Mahomed was on the throne it was allowable in Kabul to
revile and curse the British openly, and although as a successful
Warrior, with bluff, hearty manners, and a free accessibility to his
people, he was a popular Monarch, nevertheless, there was not a single
act he did which in any way increased the material prosperity of his
people. To use the words of a skilled and indefatigable observer
of facts, Dr. Bellew, of whom one still hears much in Kabul--“Dôst
Mahomed, during his long reign, did nothing to improve the condition
or advance the domestic welfare of his people, nor did he introduce a
single measure of general benefit to his country. He kept it a close
borough of Islam, stationary in the ignorance of the Middle Ages, and
pervaded with the religious bigotry of that period, and, to the close
of his life he defended that policy as the only one whereby to maintain
the independence of the country. His great merit is that he had the
sense to perceive his own interest in the British alliance, and he
reaped the fruits of his good judgment in the ultimate consolidation of
his kingdom. But he was a barbarian, nevertheless.”

[Sidenote: Abdurrahman and Dôst Mahomed.]

Attention has been drawn to a certain resemblance existing between Amîr
Abdurrahman and Dôst Mahomed.

The Hon. G. N. Curzon, speaking at the Society of Arts, remarked that
the Amîr seemed to possess some of the strongest characteristics of his
grandfather, Dôst Mahomed. Without doubt this is so; and one may add
that to the strong character of Dôst Mahomed, Abdurrahman unites a high
degree of education and considerable stores of information--scientific,
artistic, and general--acquired from books, from conversation, and
from observation during his travels. To the simple manners and free
hospitality of Dôst Mahomed, he adds a dignity and kindly courtesy of
manner most remarkable in a man of his strong passions, and in one who
is constantly surrounded with adulation and flattery. He is readily
accessible to his people: and even when suffering from the pangs of
gout will listen patiently to the petitions of the poorest of his
subjects, and give rapid though just judgments in the cases brought
before him.

From my narrative may have been gathered some idea of the steps
that the Amîr has taken to civilize his people and advance
them in prosperity. Highway robbery and murder are no longer
common in the country; nor is murder or theft in the town.
Englishmen--Feringhis--have been, for the last six or seven years,
travelling constantly between Kabul and Peshawur, and never has there
been the slightest attempt to injure or annoy them. Indeed, for myself
I may say that at every halting-place when the villagers brought
their sick for me to attend to, I went among them freely, unarmed and

That the Amîr should have used drastic measures to bring the diseased
state of the country into a condition nearer approaching health, was
without doubt a necessity; mild measures would have been misunderstood
and completely disregarded. The savage tribes who haunted certain parts
of the highway and gave rise to such by-words as “the valley of death,”
were either killed by the Amîr’s troops, captured and executed, or

On the other hand, should a Kabuli wish to start business for himself,
he has but to apply to the Amîr, who will, for a certain number of
years, lend him a sum sufficient for his purposes, and this without

I have related in my narrative how that the Amîr was educating, not
merely the Court Pages and the boy soldiers of his Mahomedan regiment,
but many others, the sons of gentlemen, whom he was intending for
officers in his army.

[Sidenote: The Teaching of Handicrafts.]

The educational influence on the Afghans of the Amîr’s Kabul workshops
must be, and is, immense. The natives work in great numbers in the
shops, being taught by the English engineers who have from time
to time been in the service of His Highness, and by the Hindustani
_mistris_, who have been introduced from Lahore and Bengal.

Not only is war material produced in the workshops, but various
handicrafts are practised there. One body of men is doing leather
work--copying English and Russian boots of various kinds; making
saddles, bridles, belts, and cartridge pouches, portmanteaux, and mule
trunks. There are workers in wood--from those who manage the steam saws
to those who produce beautiful carved work for cabinets and chairs.
There are workers in brass, making vases, candelabra, lamps, and many
other things both useful and ornamental. There is another department
where they produce tin ware--pots, pans, and cans. The most artistic
are perhaps the workers in silver. They make for the Amîr or Sultana
very beautiful things: cups, beakers, beautifully embossed tea-pots,
dagger and sword handles, and scabbards. Their work is, however, rarely
original. The Amîr shows them a drawing or gives them a good English
model to copy from.

Everything European is now fashionable in Kabul, and European clothing
has become more universally worn by the Kabulis than it used to be
even at the time I entered the service of the Amîr. His Highness,
therefore, finding that his tailors, though they soon learnt the shape
of European garments, had not mastered the difficulties of “fit,” sent
for an English tailor to teach them. Classes were held on the subject
in the workshops and demonstrations given, with the result that such of
the Kabuli tailors who attended greatly improved in their system of
“cutting,” and obtained much better prices in the bazaars.

I have already related how that the Amîr desired me to start an Art
class, and with what success the artists learnt to draw.

It would be tedious and almost impossible for me to enumerate all the
different kinds of work carried on in the shops; but I think I have
said enough to show that the effects of the workshops, apart from the
output, must be immense. There are some thousand or fifteen hundred men
at work in them; these scatter to their homes at night and carry the
wonderful stories of all they see and do to their friends. In fact, the
most popular song of the day is one depicting the life of a lad in the
shops. It is supposed to be sung by the mother; but it ends somewhat
significantly by the workman being caught in the machinery and killed.

One must remember that this educational system of civilizing is being
carried on among a race of men who have been known hitherto simply
as fighters and robbers, semi-savages, and who, unlike so many of
the races of India, have shown but little if any sign that they were
capable of being converted into useful producers.

When I say, finally, that the Amîr offers prizes, and of considerable
value, for the best or most original work produced either in the shops
or elsewhere, it will be easily understood how much he has at heart the
desire to advance his people in knowledge and civilization.

[Sidenote: Personal Fascination of the Amîr.]

For a man of ordinary intelligence, such as myself, to attempt to
analyze the Amîr’s character would be both presumptuous and futile.
His intellect, though perhaps more subtile than profound; and his
wide knowledge, though more superficial than real, raise him high
above those by whom he is surrounded, and by contrast he shines as a
brilliant light among the dull flames of his Courtiers. European in
appearance, hearty in manner, with a robe of educated civilization, His
Highness is Afghan--an Afghan of the Afghans, and perhaps the finest
specimen of his race--but yet an Oriental.

We English in his service, dazzled by the glamour of his strong
personality and charmed by the kindly courtesy of his manner, grew to
feel an attachment strong and personal to His Highness; but there were
those among us of the more observant who felt, as the years passed,
that we were but as “Pawns” on the chess-board of this Prince, to be
swept off with an unshrinking hand when a move in the game might need

Nevertheless, though life at an Oriental Court offers so little that
is congenial to the tastes of an educated Englishman; where, indeed,
each man strives to harm his neighbour; where truth is not, nor
honour; where Vice and Villainy walk at noonday unveiled, such is the
fascination of the Man that, had one none to consider but one’s self,
the temptation, for his sake, to re-enter the life would be almost



       *       *       *       *       *

Transcriber's Note

The following apparent errors have been corrected:

p. x "Usbàks," changed to "Usbàks."

p. x "Painda" changed to "Paînda"

p. xii "khirgar," changed to "khirgar."

p. xiv "ea cup" changed to "tea cup"

p. 88 "costume, First" changed to "costume. First"

p. 90 "au assassin" changed to "an assassin"

p. 103 (header) "Naíb" changed to "Naib"

p. 168 "the service" changed to "the service."

p. 171 (note) "smothered" changed to "smothered."

p. 189 (header) "The Amir’s" changed to "The Amîr’s"

p. 193 "Painda" changed to "Paînda"

p. 256 "Samarcand" changed to "Samarcànd"

p. 293 "The Amir" changed to "The Amîr"

p. 311 "muscular," changed to "muscular."

p. 335 "were Ishak" changed to "where Ishak"

p. 362 "Hîs Highness" changed to "His Highness"

p. 394 "advised,:" changed to "advised,"

p. 427 "new ta" changed to "new to"

p. 436 "many thing;" changed to "many things;"

p. 450 "mind.’" changed to "mind.”

p. 451 "my baggage" changed to "my baggage;"

p. 493 "I send" changed to "I sent"

p. 495 "“Nau Rôz" changed to "“Nau Rôz”"

p. 506 "Dear Miner" changed to "“Dear Miner"

The following possible errors have been left as printed:

p. 258 ignominous

p. 316 For God sake

p. 339 I put him at rocky slope.

p. 399 the physician;

p. 494 been drank

The following are used inconsistently in the text:

Bâbur and Babur

backbone and back-bone

Bâdshah and Badshah

Bâli and Bali

bathroom and bath-room

beeftea and beef-tea

bodyguard and body-guard

By-and-bye and By and bye

countermove and counter-move

darûst and darust

Dôst and Dost

Ghuzniguk and Ghuzni guk

goldsmith and gold-smith

Íd and Îd

kaimaghchai and kaimagh-chai

Khyber and Kyber

Kûdus and Kudus

Kurghàn, Kurghán and Kurghan

Lâla and Lala

lûngi and lungi

maidservants and maid-servants

Mahmûd and Mahmud

Maliks and Maleks

matchbox and match-box

Mazár-i-Sherif and Mazar-i-Sherif

Mazarîs and Mazaris

Mîr and Mir

mîrza and mirza

Naû Rôz, Naû Roz and Nau Rôz

nowadays and now-a-days

Ramazàn and Ramazan

Ressûl and Ressul

Sêyid and Seyid

Shere Derwaza and Sher Durwaza

Sherpûr and Sherpur

sunstroke and sun-stroke

Suffêd Koh and Sufféd Kôh

Sûnni and Sunni

sweatmeat and sweetmeat

Takh-ta-Pûl and Takh-ta-Pul

teapots and tea-pots

watercourse and water-course

Wazîr and Wazir

Zohàk-i-Marhan and Zohak-i-Marhan

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