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Title: Toy Craft
Author: Baxter, Leon H.
Language: English
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*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "Toy Craft" ***
TOY CRAFT
TOY CRAFT
LEON H. BAXTER
Director of Manual Training, Public Schools
ST. JOHNSBURY, VT.
Author of Boy Bird House Architecture, and Elementary Concrete Construction
[Illustration]
THE BRUCE PUBLISHING COMPANY
MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN
Copyright 1922
The Bruce Publishing Company
Printed in the United States of America
INTRODUCTORY NOTES
The purpose of such a book as Mr. Baxter's "Toy Craft" is to furnish
definite instructions for the making of toys for boys and girls by the
children themselves. Miniature furniture, wooden dolls, carts and
animals--of how much greater value is one such plaything actually put
together by a child than any number of toys made in a factory or
imported from some foreign country? Truly a step forward has been taken
in putting before the people a book which will unconsciously instill in
the minds of the children the value of the hand-made in preference to
the machine-made article.
Not only is Mr. Baxter peculiarly fitted to publish such a volume as
"Toy Craft" in the light of his knowledge of manual training, but also
because of his understanding of the spirit behind the production of
toys, which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls.
To the satisfaction of actually making some wooden cart, or bird, or
animal may be added the happiness of doing the work for some other
child. It is this vision of service for others which Mr. Baxter has
already caught and demonstrated, and we feel sure that this little
volume will do much to promote the improved individual construction of
toys by children, at the same time instilling into the hearts of the
boys the joy of making something for somebody else, of experiencing the
truth, "It is more blessed to give than to receive."
MABEL E. TURNER,
Field Representative for Junior Service,
New England Division, American Red Cross.
* * * * *
One of the hard problems in manual training, for boys up to twelve years
of age, is to find worth-while things to make, within the capacity of
boys of this age. Having been engaged in this kind of work for over
twenty years I can appreciate the problems of the manual training
instructor in the grades.
After carefully examining the cuts and directions for the various
projects as given in "Toy Craft," and having seen the boys at work, as
well as the completed articles, in Mr. Baxter's department, I can
readily see how the great interest that is inspired in the boys is
derived.
I heartily commend this book to all manual training teachers as a great
help in the solution of their problems with boys.
STANLEY J. STEWARD, M. E.,
Director, St. Johnsbury Vocational School.
PREFACE
Each year American parents spend millions of dollars for toys for the
children. In a short time a large part of these toys are broken, and lie
in the corner or the back yard. This is because of the destructive
habits children have developed. These same habits have been formed
because, since birth, toys have cost these children nothing.
Children, like grown-ups, value things and form habits in proportion to
the cost to them. They break up what costs them nothing, and cherish and
keep repaired what they, themselves, have made or purchased with
self-denial or self-earned money.
The breaking of toys is bad, but the effect upon the character of the
child is infinitely worse. Destructive tendencies are developed, while
constructive ability is allowed to lie dormant and inactive.
The remedy for this is to develop the constructive rather than the
destructive in children by buying them working outfits and books of
instruction with which they can make and repair things for themselves.
In other words, buy tools, equipment and supplies rather than finished
toys. Carlisle said, "Man without tools is nothing; man with tools is
all." Education is to children what civilization is to the race.
What to buy for each particular child depends upon the age and
tendencies of the child and is a matter parents must determine for
themselves. The important test is, "Is it something that the child can
use to make things for himself, for others and for the home?"
When purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave some part of the
outfit for the children to make or to buy from money they themselves
have earned. In other words, co-operate with the children instead of
doing it all for them.
The writer speaks not only from the teacher's point of view, but from
the parent's as well. The problems offered in this book are not only
within the capabilities of the average child, but are all tested and
proven as being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's ideals
and imagination.
LEON H. BAXTER.
St. Johnsbury, Vt.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
History of Toy-Making 11-3
Equipment 13-4
Laying Out Work 14
Transferring a Design 14-5
Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability 15
Finish and Color 15-7
Staining 17-8
Method of Jointing Wood 18-20
Supports for Holding Coping Saw Work 20
Support to be Held in Vise 20-2
Supports for Table Use 22
The Bench Hook 22-4
Simple Tool Sharpening 24-6
Coping Saw Work 26-7
Dowel Sticks 27
Picture Puzzle Construction 27-8
Pelican 29
Duck 30
Goose 31
Rhinoceros 32
Elephant 33
Rabbit 34
Lamb 35
Goat 36
Rooster 37
Camel 38
Method of Enlarging Figures 39-40
Dippy Duck 40-1
Monitor 42-3
Merrimac 44-5
Child's Snow Shovel 46-7
The Periscope 47-8
Doll's Ironing Board (Size A) 49-51
Doll's Ironing Board (Size B) 51-3
Doll's Ironing Board (Size C) 53-5
Doll's Clothes Rack 55-7
Child's Wash Bench 57-9
Child's Step Ladder 59-63
Doll's Table with Drawer 62-4
Colonial Doll's Table 64-6
Colonial Doll's Chair 66-7
Ring-The-Hook Game 68-9
Five Post Ring Toss 68-72
Bean Bag Game 72-4
Dart Board Game 74-6
Darts 75-7
Wind Mill 77-80
Wind Mill (Type B) 80-2
Sand or Water Mill 82-4
Doll's Cradle 84-7
Colonial Doll Cradle 87-9
Doll's Bed 89-91
Two Types of Stilts 91-3
Child's Cart 93-5
Child's Dump Wagon 95-9
Child's Wheelbarrow (Type A) 99-103
Child's Wheelbarrow (Type B) 102-5
Clown Running Wheel 105-9
Cock Horse 109-10
Rocking Rooster 111-13
Kiddie Kar 113-15
Kiddie Koaster 116-19
Ski Skooter 119-22
Method of Bending Runners 121-2
Ski Skippers 122-5
Doll Sleigh 125-8
Child's Table 128-30
Child's Chair 130-1
[Illustration: Girls Making Toys for a Red Cross Christmas Sale.]
[Illustration: A Christmas Sale of Toys for the Red Cross.]
[Illustration: Boy Toy Makers and Some of their Products.]
[Illustration: Making Toys in the School Shop.]
TOY CRAFT
HISTORY OF TOY-MAKING.
To tell the history of toy-making from its earliest days it would be
necessary to follow the story back through many centuries, for the
archaeologists, in delving among the tombs of ancient Greece and Egypt,
have made the surprising discovery that children played with dolls, and
jointed dolls at that, more than five thousand years ago.
Moreover, by the side of these dolls scientists have unearthed other
playthings that children still crave: doll's furniture, animal toys and
toys with wheels, illustrating the methods of transportation of those
early days.
These same scientists claim that the custom of playing with dolls and
other toys is as old as the world itself and that playthings are, and
always have been, just as necessary a constituent of human health and
development as either food or medicine.
They claim that the reason that boys and girls crave toys is that nature
requires them, and to deprive children of such playthings would be to
retard their mental growth and development.
The Latin word =trochus= means a hoop for children. The hoops of Roman
children were made of bronze and iron and were rolled by a sort of a
crooked stick and sometimes had small bells attached.
=Pupa=, the Latin word meaning "a little girl," applies to dolls which
were made from rags, wood, wax, ivory and terra cotta. When the Greek
girls of that time married they dedicated their dolls to Artemis; the
Roman girls, to Venus; but, if they died before marriage, their dolls
were buried with them.
The Latin word =crepundia= meant children's playthings, such as rattles,
dolls, toy hatchets and swords.
The toys made during the middle ages for the children of noble families
and rich merchants, show special care and fine workmanship. Many of them
were of a religious nature in the form of the Cross of the Crusaders, or
military in origin, like miniature knights on horseback. The toys of
this period were generally carved by goldsmiths.
The American Indians and the Esquimaux made dolls from bits of skin and
fur of wild animals and gaily decorated them with shells, beads and
feathers. They also carved small models of animals and human beings from
wood and bone.
The oldest European toy manufacturing center is Nuremberg, Germany. This
town is especially noted for its metal playthings, like the lead
soldiers, which were the delight of our childhood. Sonneburg, in
Germany, is the greatest European center for the manufacture of wooden
toys.
Winchendon, Mass., is the greatest toy manufacturing center in the
United States, nearly every enterprise in that town being toy-making.
In spite of the early origin of toys the progress of manufacturing
playthings has been so slow that, even as late as one hundred years ago,
the types of toys were few in number, simple in construction and
extremely expensive, especially in the United States.
There was no systematic manufacture of such articles, and, as the cost
of importation was very high, comparatively few persons could afford
such means of amusement for their children.
The children of those days accepted more primitive things, dolls that
were often merely pieces of cloth folded and pinned in such a manner as
to suggest the outline that was not there.
A few other toys such as hoops, jumping-jacks, tenpins, marbles,
battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet blocks, represented the limit of
the toy-makers' stock.
In America the toy-making industry is of quite recent origin. Before
1875 more than ninety per cent of the toys sold in this country were of
foreign manufacture, and those that were made here were never exported
to other countries. Today, however, about five per cent of the toys sold
here are made abroad and the rest are manufactured here in our own
country. Up to 1875 there was not a doll factory in the United States.
Today, while we import some dainty toys from France, Germany and
Switzerland, nearly all the newest, unique and mechanical productions
are made in America.
Simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal, and the same principles
employed by mechanical engineers, in duplicating parts of machinery, are
used in making duplicate parts of toys.
When a design has been decided on, it is reduced to its most simple
element. Jigs are then made so that each piece will be an exact
duplicate of every similar piece, and the construction is pushed through
on the American factory system.
Some toys are very elaborate, costing several hundred dollars. These
are readily purchased, however, by people of means.
In the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those which suggest
rather than fulfill, and those with which the child can really do
something. Mechanical toys, which supply their own energy, should not be
allowed to take the place of those into which the child must infuse part
of his own life and energy. It follows naturally, then, that the toys
made by the children themselves are the ideal ones.
EQUIPMENT.
The following drawings vary in difficulty from those within the ability
of a nine or ten-year-old child to those which should not be attempted
by a child under junior high school age. Of course there are younger
boys, who possess especial ability in this line of work and who can
successfully carry through projects which the ordinary child of a like
age would fail to satisfactorily complete. Such boys are, however, the
exception.
For the younger workman the following outfit is ample:
One coping saw frame.
One dozen saw blades.
A sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to keep it sharp.
Some No. 1 sandpaper, a small can of glue and some one inch brads.
The whole outfit will cost about a dollar.
A small plane is very convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary for
work for younger children.
A board on which the sawing is done, to prevent marring the table, can
be made from a piece of boxwood 7/8" × 6" × 12". A hole should be bored
about three inches from one end and half way between the sides, and a
V-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board to the hole. The
photograph on Page 20 shows the sawing board in use and illustrates two
methods of constructing and holding the board. See also Plate 2 for
method of making these boards. If a vise is available matters are very
much simplified.
With the above described outfit, toy animals, toy furniture,
jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like nature can be made.
The material should be thin wood from the thickness of cigar box wood
(which by the way is especially good to use for some of the toys), up to
one-half inch in thickness.
Composition board, such as Beaver Board and similar wall board, is very
good for the smaller toys but lacks strength and cannot be handled
roughly.
Three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms which specialize in
veneer. It is strong and serviceable but a little more expensive than
the plain wood.
Bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy-making, as they work
very easily and are light in weight.
For the older boy, who will no doubt be handy about the house, the
following tools are suggested:
1 Rip saw.
1 Turning saw.
1 Claw hammer.
1 Screw driver.
1 Half round file, No. 10.
1 Ruler.
1 Jack, or smooth, plane.
1 Brace, set of bits and countersink.
A 1/2" and 1" chisels.
1 Try square.
1 Pair of 6" dividers.
1 Knife.
This outfit should cost about $25. Other tools may be added by the boy
himself as the necessity arises.
If a bench is not available at first, a temporary one may be made from a
stout dry goods box and a more satisfactory one purchased later with
money earned by the boy by making things for others.
Cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are never satisfactory.
A few tools of good quality should be purchased to start with, and
others should be added as necessity demands and funds permit.
LAYING OUT WORK.
For the young beginner it will be necessary to have patterns of animals
and other toys to trace around, before cutting out the forms.
In the author's opinion originality should be always encouraged in a boy
when the original designs can be successfully worked out to completion
by the boy.
With beginners, however, considerable tact must be used in leading them
on to work out original ideas through the medium of the sketching
pencil. Only very few have the ability to carry out an idea which they
may have, and if allowed to attempt it without a trial on paper the
resulting product is most always a failure. As stated before, the first
work should be tracings from well-designed patterns. These, then, can be
successfully worked out, and the result is satisfying to the mind of the
child and not a discouraging failure.
TRANSFERRING A DESIGN TO WOOD.
A design may be traced by placing a piece of transparent paper over the
desired drawing and outlining it with a pencil. The resulting tracing is
cut out, placed on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board, and
redrawn on this. The board is then cut carefully with scissors or a
sharp knife. This pattern may be used for a long time and other patterns
may be made from it in a similar manner.
Another simple method is to place a piece of carbon paper beneath the
desired drawing, carbon side down, and to go over the lines of the
drawing with a medium-hard pencil. This transfer may be made directly
on the wood or on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out and used
as a pattern. For cut-up picture puzzles the picture is pasted directly
on the wood and, after drying, is cut at random. See Plate 5.
ADAPTING THE PROBLEM TO THE BOY'S ABILITY.
As the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the simpler toy forms
for others of increasing difficulty, he should be encouraged to read the
working drawings of the article which he intends to make. Show him how
to discover from the drawing the lengths, widths, thicknesses of the
pieces to be made and, after carefully checking him up, let him work out
his own salvation for a while. In other words, do not do it all for him.
Let the result be at least 90 per cent the boy's own work. Be ready,
however, to assist at the right moment and never turn a deaf ear to the
persistent question, "Why"?
By following this logical method of procedure in teaching, the writer
has found that the young craftsman is ready a great deal earlier to work
out original ideas and designs to a practical and successful conclusion.
FINISH AND COLOR.
After all cutting with edged tools has been completed, all pieces should
be carefully sanded to insure the removal of all scars, pencil lines and
other imperfections.
Sandpaper should be used on a small block. Care should be taken that no
paper hangs over the block, thus rounding the edges of the work being
finished.
In sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a block is not used,
but the sandpaper is folded two or three times and used under the finger
tips. Care must be taken especially not to wear through the finish on
the edges.
Paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger children to use.
Colors handled by beginners will run together and will be "dauby" in
appearance and a detriment rather than a finish to a toy. Added to this
is the likelihood of a generous application on the painter's hands and
clothing.
The writer has had excellent results in using the ordinary colored wax
crayons on toys. Crayon is easy to apply, has a pleasing color tone, is
clean and very satisfactory for the beginner. After all of a toy has
been colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand, at the point of
contact of the colors, with an ordinary drafting pen and India ink.
Pains should be taken to see that the ink is dry in one place before
applying in another. If the crayon has been put on with pressure and
uniformly deposited over the surface the ink will "take" without
spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished appearance.
For more advanced workers the toys should be painted with either
commercial or enamel paints, which are available on the market in all
colors, or with colors mixed by the boy himself. If the boy mixes his
own colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints is done away
with.
By adding to white enamel a small amount of a selected color, ground in
oil, various tones of the color may be obtained.
In painting any object a first or priming coat is applied. Flat white is
an excellent all-round primer. After the priming coat has dried
thoroughly on a toy, it should be sanded lightly to remove any rough
places with No. 0 sandpaper and dusted. Then the final coat should be
applied.
Gray is also very good for the first coat except where a white or very
light colored paints are to be used for the finished coat.
When painting small toys or parts of larger toys it is economy to have a
string or wire stretched between two hooks six or seven feet from the
floor, on which to hang the painted article.
[Illustration: Careful painting is as essential to the success of a toy
as good construction.]
Drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will not be seen, such
as the lower edge of the animal toys, and attach a short length of
string or wire to this and hang up as before described. This nail will
be handy to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is out of
the way, is not touching anything to cause marks on the paint, and is
high enough up to be where the temperature of the room will assist in
the drying process. Remove this nail after the toy is dry. If possible
toys should dry in a special room where it is quiet, with no dust
stirring or drafts blowing, and where the temperature is fairly uniform,
not falling below 60 degrees.
Paint should be applied with the tip of the brush, holding the brush
nearly vertical, using a uniform stroke and taking care to prevent
"tears" or surplus paint running over an edge. The brush should be in
proportion to the size of the article painted, and the strokes should be
outward toward the edges rather than from the edges inward.
Features and fine lines on the toys may be placed with No. 3 round sable
brush or with India ink in an ordinary drafting pen. The latter method
of outlining and drawing in features has proved most successful with the
writer's classes, as the solidity of the pen allows a firm pressure on
the surface of the work and insures a uniform line. Fine or coarse lines
may be made by adjusting the pen to suit the desired need.
Considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place lines with a fine
pointed brush held in the hands of an inexperienced boy, and the
drafting-pen method simplifies the problem immensely.
Adjoining colors, outlined by this method, improve the appearance of the
toy fifty per cent.
Dull colors may be "livened up" by applying a coat of white shellac or
varnish.
Toys having parts of various colors, such as carts, etc., should have
the different parts painted before assembling.
STAINING.
Before attempting to stain a toy, the wood should be carefully examined
to see that all scars, glue or scratches have been removed. This is very
important as the stain will show up all imperfections in the wood very
plainly. Enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the piece of
work at hand and should then be applied with a brush with the grain of
the wood in long narrow bands from one end of the work to the other. The
stain should be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being
applied, removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out the grain of
the wood.
Pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to
run over on the adjacent surface. If it does the stain should be quickly
wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be
unevenly stained.
There will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on
the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted.
Next apply a coat of white shellac (reduced by one part of alcohol to
three parts of shellac), brushing it on quickly with the grain of the
wood.
Do not have too much shellac on the brush. If laps or runs show, work
them out with the brush.
After the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed
lightly with No. 0 sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the
shellac, particularly on the edges. A second coat may be applied if
desired.
For the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax, the latter
being preferable.
Shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax. Apply evenly with a
soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour. Rub down to the proper
luster with a soft clean cloth. Two or more coats of wax may be applied
if desired.
METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD.
If, on account of width, certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from
material at hand, two pieces may have to be joined together.
One edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square
and straight. Keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory
joint is obtained, one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed
together no joint line is visible. When such a joint is obtained we are
ready to take the next step--to locate holes for dowels.
This method is shown in Plate 1, Fig. A. Here the two pieces are placed
face to face and lines are squared across the two edges, planning
enough space to insure a strong job. Two or three dowels are usually
sufficient. Locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of
the bit will come equidistant from each edge, as shown.
Bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick. Thus for
half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep.
For half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with
a quarter inch bit, for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half
inch bit should be used.
Take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right
angles to the edge of the wood, otherwise difficulties will arise when
we come to put the work together.
After all holes are bored, the round sticks called dowels should be cut,
one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes. This
allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and
also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of
the joint from coming together.
Apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on
both of the edges, as shown in Fig. B, Plate 1.
[Illustration: _Plate 1._
_METHOD OF JOINTING WOOD_]
Place the work in clamps, if available, protecting the edges of the wood
from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood.
Fig. C shows the clamps in position. If no clamps are at hand a
makeshift clamp may be made, as shown in Fig. D. In using this clamping
arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor, where
such nailing will do no harm, driving the nails only about
three-quarters of the way in. Place the wood to be clamped against this
and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away, as
shown. Prepare other pieces, also of wedge shape, of a proper size to
drive into place, as indicated.
By a careful study of Fig. D the important features of such a method of
clamping will be understood.
The cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most
convenient for the beginner to use. The clamps should remain on the work
overnight, and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned
of all glue and planed.
SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK.
In Plate 2 are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping
saw. Fig. A is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a
height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing. Fig. B is
lower, and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair. This type is
designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp,
as is shown in the sketch.
[Illustration: Boys using correctly the Supports for Coping Saw Work
detailed in Plate 2.]
SUPPORT TO BE HELD IN VISE.
In making this support the following method should be followed:
The back piece is first made 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 20". The top is made 7/8" ×
6-3/4 × 12" and the brace 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/2". This brace tapers to a
point at the lower end. Two small cleats are 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and
are attached to the upright piece 1-7/8" up from the bottom edge. This
allows the support to set firmly in the vise. Measure in from one end of
the top piece 5" and have this point come half way between the sides. At
this point a hole is carefully bored with a 3/4" bit. On this same end
measure in from each edge 2-1/4". From these points draw lines tangent
to the edges of the circle, as shown. Cut out this V-shaped notch.
[Illustration: _Plate 2._
_SUPPORTS FOR HOLDING COPING SAW WORK_]
Bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using
1-1/4" or 1-1/2". No. 8 flat-head screws. Have all surfaces sanded
smoothly and assemble with glue and screws.
SUPPORT FOR TABLE USE.
For the support shown in Fig. B, Plate 2, we make the upright 7/8" ×
6-3/4" × 8-7/8". The top is cut 7/8" × 6-3/4" × 12" and the base 7/8" ×
5" × 6-3/4" and the upright brace 7/8" × 3" × 8". The top has the same
V-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support. Bore all
necessary holes, sandpaper and assemble. The clamp shown in the sketch
answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at
any hardware store.
THE BENCH HOOK.
The bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench. It
is made of hard wood, preferably maple. The drawing is shown in Plate
3. The main piece is made 7/8" × 6" × 12". Two cross cleats are made,
one being 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 6" and the other 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 5". Holes are
bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing. Great care
must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every
edge is square and true. One of the cleats is attached on one side of
the board even with the end, while the other is placed on the other side
on the opposite end. These are held in place with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
flat-head screws. By referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea
may be readily seen. It will be noticed that the short cleat has its end
even with the left-hand edge, thus leaving a space of an inch at the
right. When used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off
small pieces of wood with the back saw, and when used with the other
side up, on which the long cleat is attached, it is for the purpose of
planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain.
[Illustration: _Plate 3._
_THE BENCH HOOK_]
If a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing
is done across the grain, the fibers on the further edge have no support
but break away, as shown in Fig. C, Plate 3. In using the bench-hook the
wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat, and
the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth. (Plate 3,
Fig. A.) It can be readily seen that supported as it now is, the piece
of wood being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge.
Pains must be taken, however, to keep the plane flat on its side, not
raising it on its edge at all, for by so doing the resulting planed edge
will not be square. This bench-hook may be made quite easily by the
beginner and besides being a good problem, is a very helpful addition to
the tool outfit. It works very well when planing wood not over six or
seven inches wide. Wood wider than this should be planed as follows:
Place the piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain
uppermost, and plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge.
Then turn the piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite
direction. By so doing the end of the wood will not be split.
Figures A and B, Plate 3, show the operation of the bench-hook for both
sawing and planing.
SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING.
In order to do good, clean-cut, accurate work it is very necessary that
all cutting tools be kept sharp. And it is important that every boy who
undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject,
especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife, the
chisel and the plane blade.
If the tool is very dull, with nicks in the cutting edge, it should be
ground first on the grindstone. It is quite important that the blade be
held at the proper angle, about 25 degrees on the stone. A suitable tool
holder, such as is shown in the illustration on Page 26, is a very
useful article to have in the tool equipment. The tool is held in place,
bevel side down, by thumbscrews, and projects beyond the holder a little
over half an inch.
The grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and
also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the
surface of the stone.
The round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave
if held steadily in one position, as shown in Fig. A, Plate 4. Fig. B
shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone.
It can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp
cutting edge.
Care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool.
The theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the
wedge; the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it. However, the
wedge, as well as the tool, must be thick enough to stand the strain of
being driven into the wood, or the material which is to be split or cut.
Too long and thin a bevel, while sharp at first, soon loses its edge
through usage, while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to
work with.
[Illustration: _Plate 4._
_SIMPLE TOOL SHARPENING_]
The grindstone leaves the tool edge rough, or with a wire edge, as it is
called. This roughness is removed on the oil stone. One or two drops of
thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel
side flat on the surface of the stone. Work with a circular motion,
bearing on the tool with uniform pressure. Turn the blade over, bevel
side up, seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone. Work
with a similar motion. Repeat these operations until the blade is as
sharp as desired. Wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the
blade lightly across the thumb. If the blade clings to the skin it will
be found sharp enough.
Fig. C, on Plate 4, shows the correct and incorrect methods of
oil-stoning the tool blade. Always wipe the stone dry after using, as
the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean.
Tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first
and skill comes only with continued practice.
In sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep
the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin, sharp edge.
The knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other,
until the desired edge is obtained.
Fig. D, Plate 4, shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife
blade on the stone. Figures E and F show the results of careless
sharpening. Fig. G is sharpened correctly.
[Illustration: Grinding Tool on Grindstone using Tool Holder.]
COPING SAW WORK.
The following plates of birds and animals (Plates 6 to 17) are
especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice
to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw.
Wood from 1/4" to 1/2" in thickness is best for this type of toy, 3/8"
being a good medium thickness to use. Pulp board, such as Beaver board,
is also very good, as there is no grain and, therefore, little liability
of splitting. Pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely.
All of these toys are mounted on a wood base, made of 1/2" wood, of a
size shown on the various drawings. The animal is attached to the base
with glue and 1-1/4" brads.
Wheels can be made from a round stick (called a dowel) an inch in
diameter by carefully sawing off pieces 3/8" thick.
Holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to
allow them to turn easily on a 1" No. 6 round-head blue screw. Washers
should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels.
Plate 6 gives a general idea of the toy base.
DOWEL STICKS.
Dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of
various sizes should be kept on hand. They are very handy in many ways
in toy making and furniture construction. They come in sizes from 1/4"
to 1" in diameter or larger, in 30" lengths, and cost from two to three
cents apiece.
Dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may
be obtained from manufacturers of mill work.
PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION.
The problem illustrated in Plate 5 is very interesting and especially
good for the beginner.
First, select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded
magazine. Colored pictures are the best.
Prepare a piece of 1/4" soft wood, such as bass or pine, and glue the
picture to the surface, rolling and pressing out air bubbles and
smoothing away all wrinkles. Place a weight on the picture and allow it
to dry overnight.
Holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down, or in
other words, at right angles with the surface of the work, saw out
irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying
drawing.
If these pieces are placed in a neat Christmas box, such as may be
purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store, it will make a very pleasing
Christmas gift.
[Illustration: _Plate 5._
_PICTURE PUZZLE CONSTRUCTION_]
[Illustration: _Plate 6._
_PELICAN_]
[Illustration: _Plate 7._
_DUCK_]
[Illustration: _Plate 8._
_GOOSE_]
[Illustration: _Plate 9._
_RHINOCEROS_]
[Illustration: _Plate 10._
_ELEPHANT_]
[Illustration: _Plate 11._
_RABBIT_]
[Illustration: _Plate 12._
_LAMB_]
[Illustration: _Plate 13._
_GOAT_]
[Illustration: _Plate 14._
_ROOSTER_]
[Illustration: _Plate 15._
_CAMEL_]
[Illustration: _Plate 16._
_METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES_]
METHOD OF ENLARGING FIGURES.
If a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the
following method is very simple:
Enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares,
like the drawing of the duck in Plate 16.
If the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size, draw a
rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the
picture. Divide it into exactly the same number of squares, which will
now be twice as large as before, or one-half inch on a side. Letter and
number all parts to agree.
Start now and sketch the enlarged figure, having the lines pass through
the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small.
With a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be
made.
A picture may be reduced by the same method.
DIPPY DUCK.
This toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action
by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel, thus
causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the
floor.
As shown in the drawing (Plate 17), the base is made of four separate
pieces, because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out
the slot from a solid piece. The wood used is 7/8" pine, the two long
pieces being 1-1/2" wide by 15" long and the two end pieces 1-1/4" wide
by 2-1/2" long. These are glued and chamfered. A small chamfer is planed
around the top edge, as shown.
The small base piece on which the duck rests is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/2".
A hole is bored 2" from one end with a 1/2" bit and the slot is sawed
out. The opposite end is rounded.
A hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut 3/8" from the end, of a
size that will take a piece of 16-penny nail tightly. The nail is cut
one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel. A similar hole
is bored, 3/8" from the other end, with a larger drill so that the nail
used at this point will be smaller than the hole, allowing the base
piece to move easily upon it.
The large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod 2-1/4" in
diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe. This
wheel is cut 3/8" thick. The four main wheels are 1-3/4" in diameter and
3/8" thick. These wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their
center, of a size large enough to allow a shingle, or a screw, nail to
turn easily within.
The wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are
driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly. A screw
eye is placed at the front end, as shown, to which is attached a string
to pull it by.
[Illustration: _Plate 17._
_DIPPY DUCK_]
All parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two
coats of paint. A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
[Illustration: _Plate 18._
_MONITOR_ (_revolving turret_)]
THE MONITOR.
This design is what might be called an amphibious toy, which means one
that is at home both on the land and water.
The base, or hull, is made from a piece of 1/2" board, 5-1/4" wide and
14" long. At a point on the long edges, 4-1/2" from the ends, a center
is taken with a compass, or pair of dividers, set at 5-1/4" radius, as
shown in the drawing. Strike all of these curves and cut to the line
with a coping saw and finish smooth.
The main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe
or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood. If care is used the pieces can
also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required
thickness. The two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of 7/8" board and
are 1-3/4" in diameter and are attached with 1" brads and glue, 1-3/4"
from each end.
For the main turret, which is to be movable, a hole is bored in the hull
exactly in the middle. In boring, a bit a little larger than the size of
a 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screw is used, in order that the screw shank
will move easily. This hole is countersunk on the under side. A smaller
hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw
and, when the pieces are assembled, the screw is not screwed up tight,
but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily.
[Illustration: The Monitor and the Merrimac and Animal Toys.]
The two "guns" may be cut from 5/8" dowels, 2-3/8" long, or may be
turned on a lathe. Two holes are bored, on opposite sides of the turret,
3/8" deep, to receive the guns which are glued in.
The two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made 1/2" × 3/4" ×
4", and are secured in place 4" from bow and stern with shingle nails
and glue.
[Illustration: _Plate 19._
_MERRIMAC_]
The four wheels are cut from 1" dowels, 7/8" thick.
A hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than
the wire of a shingle nail, which is used to hold them in place on the
base.
A small piece of 1/4" dowel about 2-1/4" long, is inserted in a hole,
bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow. This is the flagstaff, and
just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string
for pulling the toy. Give the entire toy two coats of black paint.
THE MERRIMAC.
The Confederate Ironclad is a little harder to make than the Monitor,
but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy.
The hull is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 14", and is sawed to a point at the bow
and stern, sloping from the center point of both ends to points 3-1/4"
from either end.
The upper works are made from a block of wood 1-3/4" thick, 4-1/2" wide
and 7-1/2" long. This is beveled so that the top is 3-1/4" × 6-1/4".
The two smokestacks are made from pieces of 3/4" dowel, cut 3-1/4" long
and inserted in holes bored 1/2" deep, 1" from the sides of the upper
deck and 3-1/8" from the ends. These are held in place with glue.
The flagstaff is cut from a piece of 1/4" dowel, 2-3/8" long, inserted
in a hole, bored with a 1/4" bit, 3/4" from the bow.
Just in front of this, 1/4" from the end, is placed a small screw-eye to
which a string may be attached.
The ten "guns" are made from 1/2" dowels, cut 1" long, and at an angle
so that the lower side is 7/8" long. This is so that they will fit
against the sloping sides of the turret.
A hole is bored from end to end of each gun, in their centers, so that a
1-1/2" finish nail will fit in nicely.
The guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points
indicated on the drawing.
The upper works and hull are held together with 1" brads and glue, in
such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and
sides of the hull.
The pieces which hold the wheels are made 1/2" × 3/4" × 4" and are
nailed and glued in place, 3-1/2" from bow and stern.
The wheels are 3/8" thick, cut from 1" dowels, and are held by shingle
nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely.
The holes for the nails, in the wheels, are bored exactly in their
centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used.
After sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle
ship gray paint.
[Illustration: _Plate 20._
_CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL_]
CHILD'S SNOW SHOVEL.
This problem is simple and of interest to young people during early
winter. (Plate 20.)
The handle may be made square in section first and then gradually
rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded; or a discarded handle
from some other implement may be utilized. The handle should be 28"
long, and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted 11-5/8" from one
end. This is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes. This cut
is made directly along the center of the handle and stops 11" from the
end. If this cut is not made exactly in the center, the spreading, when
the grip is inserted, will be unequal, and the shovel will not be in
balance.
The two ends of the shovel are rounded, as indicated, and the lower end
is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel.
The grip should be cut from a 1" dowel and then cut to fit the angle
formed by the spreading sides of the shovel.
This is held in place by 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws with washers, as
indicated.
The broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece, if possible, 1/2" ×
8" × 10-1/2", and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a
piece of zinc, 3-1/4" × 8", bent over and held by rivets and washers, as
shown.
The brace under the handle is cut 3/4" × 1-5/8" × 8" and then planed
from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and
secured in place with screws. The handle is attached to the blade with
rivets and washers, as shown on the drawing.
THE PERISCOPE.
This is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle.
For a periscope of the size shown in the drawing (Plate 21), two pieces
of looking glass must be first cut 2-1/4" × 2-7/8".
Pieces A are cut 3/8" × 2" × 4-1/4"; pieces B are 3/8" × 2-3/4" ×
4-1/4"; pieces C, 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 2-3/4"; pieces D, 3/8" × 2" × 17-1/4";
pieces E, 3/8" × 2-3/4" × 18-7/8"; and pieces F, 3/8" × 2-3/4" ×
18-7/8".
Two grooves 1/8" deep, and of a width to receive the thickness of the
glass used, should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, where indicated on
the drawing. This groove is cut in pieces A only.
All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper and finished
with No. 0. Assemble, as shown on the drawing, using glue and 1" brads.
The final finish may be stain or paint. Whatever finish is used should
be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope.
[Illustration: _Plate 21._
_PERISCOPE_]
[Illustration: The Periscope in Use.]
DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
(Size A.)
This problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been
one of the best sellers at toy sales. It folds up compactly and is
strong and serviceable.
Plates 22, 23 and 24 show the ironing board in three sizes for children
of varying ages.
Plate 22 is for children of about three years of age, and the material
is prepared as follows:
The top is first made of 1/2" lumber and is 6" wide and 20" long. Set
the dividers with a 3" radius and strike an arc just touching the end
and two sides of the board. Do the same on the other end, using a 2-1/2"
radius.
[Illustration: The Three Types of Ironing Boards.]
Connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just
to the lines all around. The turning saw may be used on the ends.
[Illustration: _Plate 22._
_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size A_)]
Slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost.
The legs are next cut to size, the two longer ones being 1/2" × 1" × 19"
and the two shorter ones 1/2" × 1" × 18-3/4".
One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 1-1/2" radius, at
the extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle, as
shown in the drawing.
Holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs, 1/2" from the ends
with a No. 3 bit. Another hole of similar size is bored 8-1/4" from the
one previously bored. These holes are all 1/2" from the edges.
On the short legs the only holes necessary are bored 8-1/4" from the
rounded end.
The long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed
to the underside of the top of the board, as shown. This cleat is 7/8" ×
1-1/8" × 4-1/2" and is glued and held to the top by 1-1/4" flat-head
screws, two of them being sufficient. These are countersunk.
The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 1/2" × 1" ×
4-9/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue. It is attached 2"
from the ends.
Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 1/2" × 1" ×
3-1/2", and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between
the long legs.
A cleat 7/8" × 1" × 3-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-1/2" flat-head
screws, 2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short legs in
position.
All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
being assembled. No further finish is necessary.
DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
(Size B.)
The method of constructing this board is identical with the method
suggested for board A. The difference is in the size of the pieces.
(Plate 23.)
This type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six
years of age.
The top is 5/8" thick, 7-3/4" wide and 24-1/2" long.
The curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the
preceding problem.
The legs are next cut to dimension, the longer ones being 9/16" × 1-1/8"
× 24", and the shorter 9/16" × 1-1/8" × 22-1/2".
One end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at 9/16" and
cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle, as shown
in the drawing.
Bore holes with a No. 3 bit in the rounded ends of the long legs, 5/8"
from the ends and a similar hole is bored 9-1/2" from the hole
previously bored. These holes are all 9/16" in from the edges.
[Illustration: _Plate 23._
_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size B_)]
On the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit,
9-3/8" from the rounded ends.
The long legs are attached to a cleat by 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head blue
screws, with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the
screws and the cleat.
The cleat is 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 5-7/8" and is glued and screwed to the
under side of the top with 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws.
These are countersunk.
The separating piece at the other end of the long legs is 3/8" × 1-1/8"
× 5-15/16" and is held in place by 1-1/4" brads and glue, and is
attached 3" from the end.
Two separating pieces are next made for the short legs, 3/8" × 1-1/8" ×
4-1/2", and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the
longer legs.
A cleat 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 4-7/16" is attached with glue and 1-3/4"
flat-head screws, 4" from the small end of the board. This holds the
short legs in position. Refer to the detail on the drawing of the size A
ironing board (Plate 22) for the method of making the button which holds
the board rigid.
All pieces should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper before
being assembled.
No further finish is necessary.
DOLL'S IRONING BOARD.
(Size C.)
The method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two
types. (Plate 24.)
This size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age.
The top is made 3/4" thick, 9" wide and 30" long. The dividers are set
with a 4-1/2" radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides
of the board. A similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a 3-1/2"
radius.
These arcs are connected with a straight line, and the outline is cut
with a saw and finally planed to the lines. The curved ends can be cut
with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file.
The upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper.
The legs are next cut to size, two being 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 27-7/8", and
the other two 3/4" × 1-1/4" × 29".
One end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a 5/8" radius, at the
extreme end. The other ends of the legs are cut at an angle, as shown in
the drawing.
Holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs, 5/8" from the
ends, of a size that will take a 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screw.
[Illustration: _Plate 24._
_DOLL'S IRONING BOARD_ (_Size C_)]
Another hole of similar size is bored 11" from this. These holes are all
5/8" from the edges.
On the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored 12-1/2"
from the rounded ends.
The shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is
screwed to the underside of the board, 4-1/2" from the large end. This
cleat is 1" × 1-1/4" × 6-3/4" and is held in place with glue and 1-3/4"
flat-head screws, countersunk. Two of these screws are sufficient.
The separating piece at the other end of the legs is 3/4" × 1-1/4" ×
6-13/16", and is held in place by 1-1/2" brads and glue, and is attached
3-1/2" from the ends.
Two separating pieces are next made for the long legs, 3/4" × 1-1/4" ×
5-1/4", and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between
the other set of legs.
A cleat 1-1/8" × 1-3/8" × 5-3/16" is attached with glue and 2" flat-head
screws, 5-1/2" from the small end of the board. This holds the short
legs in position.
The wood button, shown on the drawing for the Size A ironing board
(Plate 22), is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from
collapsing.
All pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with No. 1/2 sandpaper
before being assembled.
No further finish is necessary.
DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK.
This folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill
in assembling. (Plate 25.)
[Illustration: Playing House is real fun with such a dolls' clothes
rack, ironing board, wash bench, table and stepladder.]
The four legs are cut 3/8" × 3/4" × 13" and each end is rounded by first
striking semicircles on the ends, using a 3/8" radius, and then
finishing with a chisel carefully to the line.
Holes are bored in these legs with a 1/4" bit in the following places:
3/8" from the top, 4-7/8" beyond this, 3-1/4" beyond this, and 1-3/4"
beyond this. Extreme care must be taken not to split the wood. Bore
through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come
through, then remove the bit and bore back from the other side.
[Illustration: _Plate 25._
_DOLL'S CLOTHES RACK_]
Next cut the four top pieces to size, two being 3/8" × 3/4" × 6" and two
3/8" × 3/4" × 7". These are also rounded on both ends. Holes are bored
3/8" from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends,
as shown in Plate 25.
These pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper.
The cross pieces are cut from 1/4" dowels as follows: Four pieces,
8-3/4" long; six pieces, 8" long; and one piece, 7-1/4" long.
The long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a, b, c and d,
Plate 25, on the outside legs. The 8" dowels go at points e, f, g, h, i,
and j. The single short dowel goes at point k.
Examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are
placed on the correct dowels. Hold all dowels, which are not at movable
points, with 3/4" brads.
Be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the
brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where
the dowel must be free to move in the hole. It is always best to
assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly
just where the brads are to be placed.
No further finish is necessary.
CHILD'S WASH BENCH.
This bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of
children. The top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown
in Plate 26, the slats are made 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 18". These slats have
screw holes bored 2-3/8" from the ends and 3/8" from the edges, as
shown. These are countersunk to receive 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
Two braces are made 3/4" × 1/4" × 8". These are to support the slats.
One inch from one end of these braces, and 5/8" from the edges, a hole
is bored with a 3/8" bit. The same distance from the other end a similar
hole is bored and a piece is sawed out, as shown in the drawing, to
receive and support the dowel rod.
The legs of the bench are cut 3/8" × 1" × 12-3/4". One-half inch from
one end a hole is bored with a 3/8" bit. One and one-half inches from
the other end a similar hole is bored and 7" from the same end the third
hole is bored, making three in each leg. Care must be taken in boring
these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through. Bore through
on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the
opposite side. Remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole
made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction.
[Illustration: _Plate 26._
_CHILD'S WASH BENCH_]
The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" × 3/4" × 13". A center
lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an
angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches
apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will
make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and
countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head
screws.
Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the
other 14" long.
These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care
being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint.
All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
No other finish is necessary.
CHILD'S STEP LADDER.
This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being
suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (Plate 27.)
The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" × 2-1/4" × 21". It will be
noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is
obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from
the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut
them in a miter-box.
The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" × 1-1/8" × 17-3/4", and the
two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the
dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent
to the sides and ends of the legs.
Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear
legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not
to split the wood.
The top step is next made 5/8" × 5-1/4" × 9-3/4", and the top edges
slightly rounded.
Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this
step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be
countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces
with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 27.)
Two braces are next made 5/8" × 2" × 5-1/4", and are cut off at either
end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are
attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side
view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken
to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before
the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8"
from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel
stick on which the rear leg swings.
[Illustration: _Plate 27._
_CHILD'S STEP LADDER_]
While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent
splitting.
The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3"
wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the
steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are
cut 8" in length.
The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the
legs, and this requires considerable care.
The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension
is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower
end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the
angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be
measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.
Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place
the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above
the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove
is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case
the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit
loosely.
Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines
previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on
the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the
leg.
Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last
line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.
If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from
the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.
End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step
is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.
If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps
are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.
The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" × 5/8" × 15-1/2". These
are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being
cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These
braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with
3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and
countersunk.
Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.
Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in
from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws
which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the
legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
[Illustration: _Plate 28._
_DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER_]
The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after
all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step
ladder is assembled.
A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it
will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.
A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as
shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set
flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with
each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.
DOLL'S TABLE WITH DRAWER.
While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the
accompanying drawing has proven very popular.
The four legs are first made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 12". Measure down 3" from
one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at
the opposite ends, as shown.
The two side rails are made 1/2" × 2-7/8" × 6-1/2". The two front rails
above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" × 1/2" × 12".
On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from
the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is
driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off
about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so
that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down
lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs.
Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep.
The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are
bored.
The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and
glued together, and reinforced with dowels.
The finished dimensions are 3/8" × 12" × 19".
Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even
with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under
side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the
center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place.
(See Plate 28 for details of the method of attaching the top.)
Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly
between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides.
Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to
cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to
bring their surface even with the edge of the leg.
All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue,
screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for
several hours to insure a tight fit.
If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer
should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing.
If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of
course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual
table.
The drawer front is 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 12". The sides are 1/4" × 1-7/8" ×
11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to
secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in
the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after
sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together.
Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or
made by hand, and placed as indicated.
As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it
may be left unfinished.
COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE.
This table, with the accompanying chairs shown in Plate 30, makes a very
artistic and interesting problem in toy-making.
The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a
mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or
painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the
book.
The top (Plate 29) is made 3/8" × 11" × 16" and, if a piece of wood 11"
wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See
method of joining wood on page 18.)
The four uprights are made 1" × 1" × 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces
5/8" × 1" × 8".
The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches
are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the
upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the
notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the
uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount
from their edges.
Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" × 1-1/4" × 1-1/4", to be attached to
the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around.
They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the
grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On
account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the
brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill.
[Illustration: _Plate 29._
_COLONIAL DOLL'S TABLE_]
Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends.
These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when
assembling, and are to hold the top in place.
Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end
of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each
notch. These holes are also countersunk.
The long lower brace is made 5/16" × 2-1/2" × 12". When assembling, this
piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue
and 1/2" brads.
Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No.
0.
If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces
before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where
necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as
desired.
COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR.
This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing
(Plate 29), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set.
The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long.
A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should
be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline
is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to
cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to
the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they
match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact
duplicates.
The back is next made, 3/8" × 5-1/8" × 10-3/4".
The seat is made 3/8" × 4-1/2" × 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat
measures 3/8" × 3-1/2" × 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge,
and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly
under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by
measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view.
Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first,
with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the
cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and
then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing.
Finish as desired. See Pages 15 to 18 for method of staining and
painting.
[Illustration: _Plate 30._
_COLONIAL DOLL'S CHAIR_]
RING-THE-HOOK GAME.
This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of
pleasure to young people. (Plate 31.)
The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing,
is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and
the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock
5/8" × 11" × 12".
The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished
carefully to the line with a chisel and file.
A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge.
The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and
then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of
shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac
finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India
ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should
be applied over this.
If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink
after the final coat is dry.
Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains
should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the
board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by.
The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should
constitute a set.
The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor
and the contestants should stand about six feet from it.
The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over
the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the
thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in
such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a
little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the
rings.
A score of one hundred should constitute a game.
FIVE POST RING TOSS.
Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its
attraction for many young people, and older ones as well.
The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little
variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with
the points scored by ringing that particular post. (Plate 32.)
The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on
this causing a loss of five points.
[Illustration: _Plate 31._
_RING THE HOOK GAME_]
The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with
colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same
color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on
the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor
about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained
by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor,
and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point
above the posts.
[Illustration: The Ring Toss.]
The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are
removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may
be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very
satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair
spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be
bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A
piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch
and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap
with white friction tape.
The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" × 15" × 20". The center of
each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a
diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8"
chamfer around the upper edge.
Post A is made 1" × 1" × 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" × 1" × 8-1/4";
post D, 1" × 1" × 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" × 1" × 6-3/4". All of these
posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top.
It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that
each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that
point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are
figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a
1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square
and 3/4" long.
All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or
point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center
point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet
allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use.
[Illustration: _Plate 32._
_FIVE POST RING-TOSS_]
The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit
the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first
coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and
then the second coat applied.
BEAN BAG GAME.
This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in
the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in
making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four
inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about
three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then
sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the
bags.
The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more
boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate
33.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.
A piece of paper should be cut 20" × 24" and folded so that it is 12" ×
20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the
board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and
chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.
[Illustration: Boys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.]
The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first
obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center
lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4"
bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the
pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at
one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side.
Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.
[Illustration: _Plate 33._
_BEAN BAG GAME_]
A small block 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the
board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.
The long brace is made 1/2" × 2-1/8" × 18-1/2" and is held to the small
block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2"
from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this
to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2"
from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should
be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.
After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white
shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down
lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with
black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more
if necessary.
Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the
numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up
well.
The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as
those on the Dart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than
the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.
DART BOARD GAME.
This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but
with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be
developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.
The board illustrated in Plate 34, should be made of soft wood--bass,
pine or white wood is suitable--and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long,
from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".
The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of
white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be
gotten out. The main support is 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19". A hole is bored
with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8"
wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A
piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as
shown.
The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" × 3/8" × 17" and is held to piece X by a
quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end
which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the
board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.
[Illustration: The Dart Board in Use.]
The small block X is 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" and is attached, as
indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head
screws.
This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs
nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a
simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8"
× 2-1/8" × 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can
run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be
adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.
After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of
shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the
diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give
another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the
colors applied to the circles.
First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle
edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and
circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all
the circles again with ink.
Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed
that the small outside circles are minus numbers.
Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.
Darts.
The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones
are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad
should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off
with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.
[Illustration: _Plate 34._
_DART GAME BOARD_]
At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough
to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl.
These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.
About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in
bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.
The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given
station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six
darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should
be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to
another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the
board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts
lose their score.
One thousand points should constitute a game.
The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine
file.
WIND MILL.
This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage
where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel
at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane.
[Illustration: Three Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.]
The main part of the mill (Plate 35) is made up of four pieces of half
inch stock, two being 3-1/2" × 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" × 4-3/4". The two
larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces
to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood
1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several
thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" × 3-1/2" and a
line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line
the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as
shown.
[Illustration: _Plate 35._
_WIND MILL_]
The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" × 1-1/4" ×
10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold
it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for
the screw which holds in place the round piece A.
The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" × 2-1/2". A
hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C
is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter
inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This
hole is 3/8" deep.
The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with
glue.
The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with
glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" × 4" × 5". The small piece, on which the
vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut
1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive
this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to
receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve.
A piece is now cut 3/4" × 7/8" × 7" to serve as the supporting piece on
which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the
drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this
notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the
opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill
that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these
nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a
projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should
be filed smooth and round.
A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the
drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to
turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the
mill turning easily.
The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" × 1" × 5-1/2".
Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end
and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for
the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes
to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth.
A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting
half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the
vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore
a hole at the center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
screw to turn easily.
A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the
rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up
tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely.
All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and
finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling.
A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing.
WIND MILL.
(Type B.)
This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing
addition to the top of a garage or barn. (Plate 36.) Children also enjoy
toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages
in the sand.
The four long uprights are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 19". The top piece, which
is eight sided, is first made 1/2" × 3-1/4" × 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is
measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the
lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit
a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw.
The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" ×
2-1/4" × 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface,
5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw
these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner
pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece
similar to the hole bored in the previous piece.
Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads,
trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they
are flush with the surface of the top piece.
Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside
to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the
bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate
the places where the cross pieces go.
Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" × 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit
nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that
they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with
glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with
the floor when setting upright.
The angle braces are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 11" and cross each other with a
halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the
slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue.
Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" × 1-1/4" × 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square
at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper
corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A
small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw
which holds piece B in place.
[Illustration: _Plate 36._
_WIND MILL_ (_type B_)]
Piece B is made 3/4" × 3/4" × 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide
and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight
angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from
the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8
round-head screw.
Tail C is made 1/4" × 4" × 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the
lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the
left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the
lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of
these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all
around.
The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper
balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 7". The method of forming
the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail,
where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with
a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each
piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the
groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it.
The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads.
A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a
1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.
Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the
tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads.
The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with
washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B
is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers
under the screw head and between B and E.
Have all movable parts so that they will move freely.
A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the
mill to the desired location.
SAND OR WATER MILL.
This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be
used to operate it. (Plate 37.) It is very simple to construct and is
made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and
7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the
corners, are 1/2" × 1" × 1". The two uprights are 3/4" × 7/8" × 8-1/4",
and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-1/2".
[Illustration: _Plate 37._
_SAND OR WATER MILL_]
Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in
place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides.
Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one
just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws
that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are
bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and
all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters.
The top piece is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 5-1/2" with the two front corners
slightly rounded, as shown.
A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the
front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides.
A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a
size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being
a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long.
A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored
about two-thirds of the way through, as shown.
Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which
are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish
these.
Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the
two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red
paint.
Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint
two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green.
While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through
which the wire axle runs is 3/4" × 3/4" × 2-1/4". The four blades are
1/4" × 2-1/4" × 2-3/4".
After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece,
nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side
view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats
of yellow.
When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly,
using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue.
The toy is now ready to operate.
DOLL'S CRADLE.
A cradle built according to Plate 38 is suitable for a doll sixteen or
seventeen inches in length.
The two sides should be first made 1/2" × 6-1/2" × 20". These are later
beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head
and foot board.
[Illustration: _Plate 38._
_DOLL'S CRADLE_]
Measure from one end along the top edge 7-1/4" and from the other end
11-1/4". From this last end the width of the side is cut down to 4-1/2",
as far as the 11-1/4" measurement previously made. Connect the point
which is 7-1/4" from the left end with the point which is 11-1/4" from
the right end. This gives a slope of approximately 30 degrees, as is
shown in the side view. Slightly round the corners, as indicated.
The head board is next made 1/2" × 7" × 8-3/4".
Measure in, on one of the long edges, an inch from either corner, and
from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners. Cut
carefully to this line. This makes the lower edge 6-3/4" long. The upper
corners are rounded, as shown.
The foot board is made in a similar manner, first cutting it 1/2" × 5" ×
8". Place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly
correspond. If not, plane or saw them while together so they are exactly
alike, except in height.
The four pieces so far completed may now be assembled, using glue and 1"
brads.
See that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface.
The base is next made 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 20". The two rockers are cut 3/4"
× 2-3/4" × 13-1/2".
It is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size, fold across
the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker
shape. When this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be
unfolded, cut out and drawn on wood. The rocker ends have a slight
shoulder of 1/8", as shown. In sloping the rockers, get them alike and
make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight
pressure.
[Illustration: Two Types of Doll Cradles.]
Holes are bored with a small drill in the base, 2-1/2" from the ends and
1-1/2" from the sides. A hole is also bored half way between the two, as
shown, and all are countersunk on the upper side.
Attach the rockers with glue and 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
See that they project equally on the sides and are square with the
edges.
Now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made, using 1"
brads and glue. Have the base project equally from the upper frame on
each side and come flush with the ends.
All pieces should have been carefully sanded, of course, before
assembling.
The next, and last step is the final finish. If paint is to be the
finish, select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat.
Follow directions in the front of the book for painting.
COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE.
The type of cradle, shown in Plate 39, is similar in many ways to the
one on the last plate. It is, however, more artistic and somewhat more
difficult to make.
Follow directions on the last plate for making rockers, base and
footboard.
The headboard is cut 1/2" × 8-3/4" × 10-7/8".
Place a center line, longways of the piece, as shown in the end view. At
the top measure 1-1/4" each side of the center line and make a dot. At
the base measure 3-3/8" each side of the center line and place a dot.
Measure 1-3/4" from the top edge, on each side. Connect these points, as
shown in the end view. Cut carefully to the lines. Test the head and
footboard to see if they compare.
Make the two sides of the cradle next 1/2" × 9-1/4" × 20".
Seven inches from one end and 6-1/4" from the lower edge strike a circle
1-3/8" in radius. From the lower edge of this circle draw a line
parallel to the base. This will make the narrow part of the sides 4-1/2"
wide.
From the point directly over the center of the circle, square a line to
the top edge of the side. The outline of the side is now ready to be cut
out. If an expansive bit is obtainable, bore the hole from the center of
the circle with the bit set at 1-3/8" radius. If this bit is not
obtainable, the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw
after first cutting to the circle, along the other lines previously
drawn.
The short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the
slope of the head board.
Next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof.
These are 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 7-3/4". These must be planed at their top edge
to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head
board.
The top piece is the final piece cut, and this is 1/2" × 4-3/4" ×
7-3/4".
The pieces should now be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper and the
sides and ends assembled with glue and 1" brads.
[Illustration: _Plate 39._
_COLONIAL DOLL CRADLE_]
The roof pieces are next placed. Be sure that the top piece sits flat
and overhangs equally on both sides.
Holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws, 2-7/8" from the ends and
1-1/2" from the sides. A third hole is bored at each end half way
between the other two, as shown, and all are countersunk.
Attach the rockers with glue and 1" flat-head screws, being careful that
they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the
edges of the base.
The final finish is optional, but if the cradle is to be painted or
enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white. See
directions for painting in the first part of the book.
DOLL'S BED.
The bed illustrated in Plate 40, is suitable for the ordinary size doll,
16" to 18" in length.
The four legs should first be cut, the two long ones being 7/8" × 7/8" ×
12" and the two short ones 7/8" × 7/8" × 9-1/4".
These should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered
1/16", as shown.
The two side rails are next made 3/8" × 2-1/2" × 20-1/2".
The four cross rails, two on the head board and two on the foot board,
are made 1/2" × 7/8" × 8-3/4".
Seven slats are next made 3/8" × 1-1/4" × 8".
Two long supporting slats, on which the seven slats previously made
rest, are now made 3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4".
Three upright slats are now made for the head board, two being 3/8" ×
1-3/4" × 8", and one 3/8" × 3" × 8". Three similar slats are made for
the foot board, two 3/8" × 1-3/4" × 5-1/4" and one 3/8" × 3" × 5-1/4".
Seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are
joined. Use a small drill about 1/8" in diameter.
These holes are 2-1/2" up from the bottom end of the legs and 1" down
from the top ends. In assembling these parts, use glue, brads and 1-1/2"
No. 8 round-head screws, as shown on the drawing. Next place the slats,
as indicated, using glue and 1-1/4" brads. Take pains to space these
properly and center them on the cross piece. All brad holes, wherever
placed, should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard
beeswax.
In nailing in the brads, rest the bottom support on the corner of the
bench, so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the
hammer.
Next attach the long side rails, having their ends come flush with the
outer side of the leg. Use glue and 1" brads. See that the rails are
attached square with the long edges of legs. The two shorter supporting
rails (3/8" × 1" × 19-1/4"), are next nailed to the lower cross pieces
at the head and foot of the bed, and close up against the long side
rails. A few brads, 1" long, should be driven through from the side
rails into these to help secure them in place.
[Illustration: _Plate 40._
_DOLL'S BED_]
The seven cross slats are carefully spaced, glued, and nailed in place
with 1/2" brads. While nailing, place a block of wood beneath the ends
for a bearing.
All pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling, and the bed
may now be either stained or painted. If painted, a priming coat should
be applied first. After this has dried it should be carefully sanded
with No. 0 sandpaper and the finish coat applied.
Considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good,
clean-cut job. Refer back to the first of the book for necessary
instructions for painting.
There is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing
the bedding.
TWO TYPES OF STILTS.
(Type A Stilt.)
Most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on
stilts, but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made.
In this style of stilt (Type A, Plate 41) the uprights are held beneath
the arm pits.
The upright pieces should be made 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 5', or as long as the
boy desires. Hard pine or ash make strong, durable stilts. The edges of
the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand
nicely.
[Illustration: Two Kinds of Stilts.]
Holes are bored with a 1/4" bit, 17" from the lower end and 2-1/2"
apart, as shown. The upper hole is countersunk to receive a 2-1/2" No.
12 flat-head screw.
[Illustration: _Plate 41._
_STILTS_]
The foot rests are made 1" × 3-1/2" × 5" and shaped, as indicated on the
drawing.
They are secured to the uprights with screws and 1/4" × 3" round-head
stove bolts. Several holes at various heights could be bored to allow of
adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt.
The uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green, or the whole
can be left plain, according to the desires of the maker. A touch of
paint, however, not only adds to the appearance of any article, but also
preserves it and lengthens its life.
(Type B Stilt.)
Type B stilt (Plate 41) is made shorter than Type A and is to be
strapped to the leg just above the knee.
The uprights are 1" × 1-3/8" × 36", or longer if desired.
Round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of
the same size as in Type A.
A strap is screwed on, as is shown in the drawing, to support the feet,
and another strap, long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee, is
attached at the upper end, 2" from the top.
Sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit.
A pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady
oneself.
[Illustration: Two Kinds of Carts and a Dump Wagon (in front).]
CHILD'S CART.
Carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here (Plate 42) is
of simple construction.
Make the side pieces first 1/2" × 6" × 10". On one long edge measure in
2-1/2" and from this point draw a line to the upper corner. Cut
carefully to this line. The front piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6" and the
end piece 1/2" × 6" × 6-3/4". This end piece is beveled to conform to
the top and bottom edges of the cart, as shown in the side view.
The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6" × 6-1/2".
[Illustration: _Plate 42._
_CHILD'S CART_]
The piece to which the wheels are attached, is made 7/8" × 1" × 7-1/8".
This piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws, 1-1/4"
from the ends and half way between the sides.
Two small blocks are made 1/2" × 1" × 2-1/2" and tapered 3/4", as shown.
These blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws. Bore the holes
in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other,
otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other.
Holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the
inner side. These pieces are 3" from either side, the first one being
2-1/4" from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first.
The handle measures 7/8" × 1" × 30". A hole is bored 5/8" from the front
end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly
chamfered for a finish. The opposite end of the handle is cut at an
angle of 30°, as shown.
A piece of dowel, 1/2" in diameter and 3" long, is cut and inserted in
the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the
under side of the handle.
The wheels are 7/8" × 5" and may be cut out with a turning saw and
trimmed to the line with a chisel, or, if a lathe is available, they can
quickly be cut to size. If they are to be sawed out, a circle should be
struck with a divider or compass set at a 2-1/2" radius and then
carefully cut to the line.
The axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and 1-1/4" No. 8
flat-head screws.
Bore a hole in the end of the axle, exactly in the center, using a drill
slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position.
Bore a hole in each wheel, at the center point, a little larger than the
screw that is to be used. Attach the wheels with 1-1/2" No. 10
round-head blue screws, using a small washer under the screw head and
also between the wheel and the cart body. Tighten the screw just enough
to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily.
Sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling, using No. 1 sandpaper
first and finishing with No. 0. Assemble the body part of the cart with
glue and 1" brads.
A suggested color scheme is given in the drawing.
CHILD'S DUMP WAGON.
This toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple
turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand.
Each part of this toy is completely detailed in Plate 44, while Plate 43
gives the assembly drawing.
[Illustration: _Plate 43._
_CHILD'S DUMP WAGON_]
The two sides are first made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 12", and the two ends 1/2"
× 6" × 7-1/2". The sides are beveled about 1/8" on the lower edge so
that they will conform to the angle of the end piece. The ends taper
from 7-1/2" long at the top to 5-5/8" at the bottom. This angle is
obtained by measuring in 15/16" from either side and drawing to the
opposite upper corner. Saw and finish to this line and slightly round
the upper corners, as shown. Bore a hole with a 1/2" bit at the point
indicated.
The bottom piece is made 1/2" × 6-5/8" × 12".
Sand these five pieces and assemble, using 1-1/4" brads and glue. Plane
the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the
sides.
The two end uprights are now made 1/2" × 6-3/4" × 8". Measure up 2-1/4"
on the short edges and place a dot. Connect these points with a sloping
line and saw and finish to the outline shown. Bore holes with a 1/2" bit
at the place indicated. Locate and bore a screw hole 1/2" up from the
center of the lower edge to attach brace block.
Make two small supporting blocks 7/8" × 1-3/4" × 1-3/4". Bore a 1/2"
hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive
1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, 3/8" from each other, as shown.
Countersink these four holes.
Glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box, 1-1/4" from the
top edge, as shown.
Make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square 7/8" × 1" × 1" and
cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner. Glue and screw
these blocks to the end uprights, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws.
The underbody should next be made 1/2" × 8" × 18-1/2".
Measure in 3-1/4" from each corner on the long edge, and with the
dividers set at 2-1/4", strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs
with straight lines, making the width in the middle 4-1/2". Saw this out
with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line.
Locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown, with a drill the size of
a No. 6 screw.
Countersink all holes, except the four holes which hold the supports for
the cart handle. These four are not countersunk as 1" No. 6 round-head
screws are used at these points.
Attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and 1" No. 6
flat-head screws, eight in all.
Next make the two axles 7/8" × 1" × 8-1/4" and bore and countersink the
three holes, on the narrow edge, at the points indicated. Glue and screw
these in place, 1-1/4" from the front and rear ends, using 1-1/4" No. 8
flat-head screws. These axles project 1/8" beyond the sides of the
underbody, on all sides, so as to allow the wheels to turn without
interference.
The wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw, 7/8" thick and
all exactly 4" in diameter. Bore a hole in their center with a drill a
little larger than the wire of a 2" No. 10 round-head screw. When
assembling, use a washer on each side of the wheel.
[Illustration: _Plate 44._
_DETAILS OF DUMP WAGON_]
A hole should be started about 3/8" deep in the center of the ends of
the axle to insure the screws going in properly.
The cart handle is made 1/2" × 1" × 30", with one end rounded and the
opposite end chamfered 1/8". On the latter end measure in 5/8" on the
wide side and bore a hole carefully with a 1/2" bit. Cut a piece from a
1/2" dowel, 3-1/4" long, and insert it in this hole, keeping it in place
with glue and one 7/8" brad.
Bore a hole 1/2" from the rounded end with a 3/16" bit.
The two pieces which hold the handle are now made 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-3/4".
A 3/16" hole is bored in the 7/8" edge of these pieces, 1/2" from the
end. These holes, and the hole in the handle, are to receive a
round-head stove bolt, which is 3/16" × 2-1/4".
Glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end
of the underbody, leaving about 1/16" space between the handle and the
edges of the blocks for freedom of movement.
The dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel, the main piece being 1"
in diameter by 4-1/2" long. The other pieces are cut from a half-inch
dowel, 3" and 3-1/2" long, respectively.
On the main dowel bore holes with a 1/2" bit, 3/4" from the ends, to
receive the shorter dowels. Glue and insert the 3-1/4" dowel and bore a
small hole to receive a 7/8" No. 6 round-head screw. Place this screw
and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front
supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end.
Hold in place in the block with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
screw.
Glue and screw the 3" dowel in place for the grip.
A piece of 1/2" dowel, 2" long, is similarly placed through the rear
upright, thence into the rear supporting block and box end.
This is also held with glue and a 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screw through
the block.
Sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and
handle.
CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
(Type A.)
The Child's Wheelbarrow, shown in Plate 45, is very serviceable and
quite easy to make, and, if the directions are followed carefully, the
result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily
found on the store shelves.
First, make the handles 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 30". Chamfer the handles, as
shown, for four inches from one end.
The two sides are made 1/2" × 5-1/2" × 15" and 1-1/2" is measured in on
one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner. Saw
and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and
file.
The end is 3/8" × 5-1/2" × 7-1/4". The bottom is first cut 1/2" × 11" ×
14". On one end measure in 1-7/8" from one side and a like distance from
the other side. Connect these points with the opposite extreme corners
and finish to these lines. The bottom is now tapered to 7-1/4" wide at
the front end.
Assemble the sides, the bottom and the end with glue and 1-1/2" finish
nails, setting the front piece back 1/4" from the end of the sides, as
shown in the drawing. Set all nails below the surface and fill the holes
with beeswax.
Place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front
end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is 5" from the front end of the
handles, and the handles at the front end are 2" apart inside, and at
the grip end 13" apart outside.
While in this position, which is the permanent assembling position, mark
the position of the six screw holes, which are bored with a drill of a
size to receive a 1" No. 6 flat-head screw. Countersink these holes.
The two legs are made 7/8" × 1" × 8-3/4" and beveled 1/4" at the lower
end. On the upper end a notch is cut out 3/8" deep by 1-1/4" long. Two
holes are bored, as indicated, to attach the leg to the handle. This is
done with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head screws.
[Illustration: Wheelbarrows.]
A 1/2" dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them, and a hole is
bored 3/8" deep in each leg, 2-1/2" from the lower end. The dowel is 9"
long and is held in place with glue, and a 3/4" brad is driven in the
leg to hold it firmly in place.
[Illustration: _Plate 45._
_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE A_)]
[Illustration: _Plate 46._
_CHILD'S WHEELBARROW_ (_TYPE B_)]
A hole is bored very carefully 1-1/4" from the front end of the handles
to receive the wheel axle. It will be noticed, by referring to the top
view of the drawing, that on account of the taper of the handles this
hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through. The
bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn
freely, as the axle should be made of a nail of this size, cut 3" long.
The wheel is best made of hard wood, such as maple, 7/8" thick and 6" in
diameter.
Bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used.
Next cut two pieces from a 1/2" dowel, 3/8" long, and bore a similar
hole exactly through their center. These two pieces of dowel are glued
to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center. When assembling,
place a small washer between the dowels and handle, as shown.
All pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling, and the
wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in
place. The remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green.
Apply two coats, rubbing down the first coat when dry with No. 0
sandpaper before applying the second.
CHILD'S WHEELBARROW.
(Type B.)
This style wheelbarrow (Plates 46 and 47) is planned exceptionally
strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage. It is
made larger and stronger than Type A, and is naturally a little more
difficult to make, but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy.
This type has removable sideboards.
The plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece, so
it will not be necessary to give the directions here.
After all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the
places indicated, each part should be sanded very carefully and made
ready for assembling.
Care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace, the
wheel supports and the tops of the legs.
The metal braces can be made from strips of zinc 1" × 4", bent over the
braces W, allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards. Holes
should be drilled in these braces, where shown, to receive 1/2" No. 6
round-head screws.
First attach the bottom boards to the handles with 1" No. 6 flat-head
screws, placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the
bottom board and flush with the side edges.
Next fasten the front and rear brace in place with 1-1/2" No. 8
flat-head screws, on the under side, and with 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head
screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends.
[Illustration: _Plate 47._
_DETAILS OF TYPE B WHEELBARROW_]
Fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with 1" No. 6 flat-head
screws from the upper side of the bottom board.
Place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in
the same manner.
Glue and screw the front uprights in place, as indicated, with 1" No. 6
round-head screws, and place the top cross piece on these and hold in
place with glue and 1" round-head blue screws.
Place the sides in position, with the front ends flush with the outer
edges of the front braces. Place the metal braces over the supporting
pieces and screw in place, using 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
Braces X, which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the
wheelbarrow, are screwed in place, as shown, using 1-1/4" No. 8
round-head screws.
It will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only
extends in 3/8". Place one leg in position, 14-1/2" from the ends of the
handles, using glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws. Insert the
dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second
leg in place. The dowel should have glue placed on its ends, and, after
the legs are in place, an inch brad should be driven into each leg,
through the dowel, to hold it firmly in place.
The color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one. The wheel is
painted two coats of red before being placed in position.
CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL.
This has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct.
The legs and body may be made of pulp or Beaver board, a material which
is very good, as it saws easily and will not split. Wood, however, may
be used, if preferred.
The details of the body and legs are full size and these may be
transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning
of the book. These pieces, when done, may be painted, if desired, and
allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made. Bore all
necessary holes shown in the drawing.
The wheels are best turned on a lathe to 4" in diameter and a hole bored
in the center of each of a size that will allow a 1/4" dowel to fit
tightly. If no lathe is available, the wheel can be cut out with a
turning saw and finished with a chisel and file. The wheels are best
made from 1/4" maple. Two pieces of 3/8" dowel are cut 1/4" long and
attached 1/2" above the center of the wheel, as shown. This is done on
both wheels, and the piece is attached with glue and 1/2" brads. It is a
good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible
splitting of the wood. The dowel that goes between the wheels is made
1/4" × 3/4" and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later.
Another piece of 1/4" dowel is cut 4" long, and is fitted to support the
body of the clown on the handle.
[Illustration: _Plate 48._
_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
[Illustration: _Plate 49._
_DETAILS FOR CLOWN RUNNING WHEEL_]
The handle is made 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 30", and the grip is rounded and
shaped, as shown on Plate 48. In the opposite end of the handle a slot
is cut 1/16" wide and 1-1/2" long. This is to receive the strip of zinc
which runs between the wheels. This strip of zinc is made of 1/16"
material, 1" wide and 4-1/2" long. Triangular pieces are cut from one
end, 1/4" on a side, as shown on the detail sheet. This strip is held in
the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the
zinc, with a drill the size of a 3/4" brad, and afterwards gluing and
bradding the zinc into position with 3/4" brads. A hole, 1/4" in
diameter, is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc, 5/8" from the
end and 1/2" from the sides. This goes over the axle of the wheel.
A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, 2-3/8" from the end of the handle, as
shown on Plate 48, and at an angle, as indicated.
A similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown. The parts are now
ready to sandpaper, paint, and after drying, assemble.
[Illustration: Clown Running Wheel.]
[Illustration: Cock Horse.]
The color scheme is given on the drawing. After the paint has dried, the
lines where the various colors join, should be accented with a pen,
using India ink.
The upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with 1-1/2" copper
rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by 1/2" rivets. When
putting the rivets in place, hold the end which has the washer against
some hard, metal body and strike with a hammer, taking care not to get
the washer so tight that the legs will not move. A 3/4" No. 6 round-head
screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel. It is best to
bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than
the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting. Glue the supporting
dowel in both the clown and the handle.
COCK HORSE.
The Cock Horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse, and affords
the children, between the ages of four and six, unlimited pleasure.
The head is made of a piece of 7/8" bass or pine, 5-1/2" wide and 9-1/2"
long.
The features may be enlarged from the size drawn in Plate 50, by the
method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging; or, if one is
apt at free-hand drawing, the outline may be copied offhand.
Cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the
edges and surfaces with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
The stick is made 7/8" × 1" × 32", and the front end is chamfered 1/8".
Holes are bored for 1-1/2" No. 10 flat-head screws, the first 1-3/4"
from the front end and the other two 1-1/2" apart.
Two smaller pieces, which are made 5/8" × 7/8" × 7-1/2", are to hold the
wheel in position. Holes are bored in these two pieces to take 1-1/4"
No. 8 round-head screws, the first one being 7/8" from the end and the
next two 3/4" apart.
On this same end a piece is cut off at an angle, as shown.
A hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a
2-1/2" × 1/4" round-head stove bolt, on which the wheel turns.
The wheel is made 7/8" thick and 6" in diameter, either on a lathe or
with a coping saw. A hole is bored in the center a little larger than
the 1/4" × 2-1/2" stove bolt, so that the wheel will turn easily upon
it.
Glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick, using 1-1/4"
round-head blue screws. Give these two coats of natural varnish.
Paint the wheel two coats of bright red.
Paint the head one coat of flat white, and after drying give one or two
coats of white enamel. After this has dried thoroughly, paint the comb
and wattles bright red. Paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes
yellow, and the feathers about the neck black. Where the colors join,
outline with a drafting pen and India ink.
A hole is bored, in the head where shown, to receive a piece of 3/4"
dowel, 6" long. This serves as a handle. Glue this handle in place,
taking care that it projects equally on both sides.
[Illustration: _Plate 50._
_COCK HORSE_]
ROCKING ROOSTER.
This very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as
young as two years of age. It is simple in construction and perfectly
safe. (Plate 51.)
The seat board is made 7/8" × 5" × 21". Measure 6" in from one end on
both long edges, and at these points narrow the front end to 3-1/2" wide
by sawing out a piece on both sides 1-1/4" wide.
Round the corners where the taper comes, also the other four corners of
the top. Similarly, round the upper edge of the top.
The two rockers are made 7/8" × 4-1/2" × 18". Measure down 1/4" on the
two ends, and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with
its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge. Be sure this
curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike.
The rooster's head is made 7/8" × 6" × 10-1/4" and the outline is
sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing.
Cut out the features with a coping saw, taking pains to have the saw at
right angles to the surface of the wood at all times.
A hole is bored in the head, for the handle, about 3-3/4" from the top
and 1-1/2" from the rear edge. A 3/4" bit is used.
[Illustration: The Rocking Rooster is safe as well as interesting.]
Be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight.
The handle is made 6" long and 3/4" in diameter, shaping it as shown in
the front view. If this cannot be turned on a lathe, the handle may be
made from a 6" piece of 3/4" dowel, rounding the ends slightly with a
file.
Holes are now bored for the 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the
rockers and head to the top. The locations of these holes are clearly
shown in the drawing. Countersink the holes on the side from which the
screws enter.
The little separating block, which goes between the rockers, is made
7/8" × 1" × 2-1/2", and is held in place with glue.
Sand all pieces thoroughly.
[Illustration: _Plate 51._
_ROCKING ROOSTER_]
Assemble all pieces carefully, seeing that the rooster's head is
centered well and placed two inches from the front end.
The rockers are attached 1-1/2" from the ends and so placed that they
are just an inch apart.
Paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with No. 0
sandpaper when dry. Paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright
red and the feathers on the neck, green.
After these colors have dried, apply another coat of white, where
indicated, this time using white enamel. Use a small brush for the
details. The beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and
the other circle about the eye is painted black.
If the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat
is dry, apply another coat of each color. Outline the edge of the comb
and wattles with a drafting pen and India ink. Outline also, the beak
and eyes. This causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and
sets off the features.
The top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of
the priming coat.
KIDDIE KAR.
It is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy. Its
construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy.
The seat board (Plate 52) is made of 7/8" stock and is first cut 7-1/2"
wide and 21-1/2" long. Half the outline of the curve at the front should
be traced on a folded piece of paper, the proper size, and cut out and
traced on the wood. This outline should now be carefully sawed and
chiseled to the correct shape.
[Illustration: Kiddie Kars.]
The top edge of the seat should be rounded.
The rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece
of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood 7/8" × 5" × 6-1/2".
Finish to the line.
The brace is cut 7/8" × 5" × 9-1/2".
Mark out the outline of the curves, as shown, and saw and chisel to the
line. The wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the
dimensions shown on the drawing.
A hole is bored in the seat board, 1-3/4" from the front end and half
way between the sides, with a 15/16" bit. This is to allow the steering
post, which is turned to 7/8" diameter, freedom to turn.
Holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace, as shown, to
secure the same to the top. Holes are likewise bored half way between
the sides of this brace, to engage with the curved supporting piece.
The curved supporting piece has two holes bored 1-1/4" from the small
end, 1" apart. This is for the screws that go into the top.
Holes, bored with a small bit, should be started in the lower part of
the rear brace, to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels
in place. It is quite necessary to make these holes, using a bit a
trifle smaller than the screw to be used, as it is very difficult to
force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness. These holes must
be bored exactly straight, otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly.
Washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and
between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with.
A hole is bored in the steering rod, directly below the top board, for a
screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod
firm. Glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering
apparatus. The handle is also held in place with a screw and glue, as
shown. A hole is bored in the handle, of a size suitable to receive the
steering rod.
Washers should be placed in the steering gear, above and below the seat
board, to prevent wear.
In preparing the slot to receive the front wheel, a hole should first be
bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes 3-5/8"
from the bottom of the steering gear.
This slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the
wheel, which is 7/8" thick, will turn accurately.
The holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than
the screw or bolt which goes through them. The front wheel turns on a
1/4" × 1-3/4" round-head stove bolt.
The color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes.
The one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts
of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish.
All parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling. Two coats of
paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the
remainder.
Sand in between coats with No. 0 sandpaper.
[Illustration: _Plate 52._
_KIDDIE KAR_]
KIDDIE KOASTER.
This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar
and is suited for children of eight or over.
If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.
If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about
six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go
through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to
the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.
The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown in
Plate 53.
The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" ×
2-1/4" × 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and
7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace
is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the
bottom end chamfered, as shown.
A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end.
An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the
remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.
A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit.
Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a
3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.
[Illustration: The Kiddie Koaster.]
These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch
from the lower end to receive a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A
1/4" bit should be used to bore these.
The rear support is made 2" × 2-1/4" × 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from
the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as
the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and
draw to the opposite corner.
[Illustration: _Plate 53._
_KIDDIE KOASTER_]
Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross
piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to
take a 1/4" x 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.
Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.
Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the
wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the
front.
The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat
rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".
Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower
corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from
this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the
lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed,
measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This
tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given
on the drawing.
On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon
tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of
the rear support on a line.
This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the
mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel
until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.
Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in
from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.
The seat is made 3/4" × 5" × 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch,
cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a
chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4"
No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.
The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and
covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece
of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge
with upholstery tacks to match.
The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they
may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are
clearly shown.
The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The
rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.
These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply.
These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a
turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.
A special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm,
to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's
classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes,
without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches
long and costs fourteen cents.
If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be
substituted, two being used.
A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be
drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in
the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When
assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the
screw holes in the hinges.
Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted
two coats.
A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
SKI SKOOTER.
The Ski Skooter, shown on Plate 54, is best made of ash.
The runner is first made 5/8" × 3-3/8" × 39" and thinned down, for ten
inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.
The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.
The upright piece is made 7/8" × 3-1/8" × 16-1/8" and one of the bracing
pieces 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 12" and the other 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 13". These are
cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.
[Illustration: The Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.]
The seat is made 7/8" × 6" × 12", and the top edges are slightly
rounded.
Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" ×
7/8" × 5".
[Illustration: _Plate 54._
_SKI SKOOTER_]
[Illustration: _Plate 55._
_METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS_]
Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" × 7/8" × 3-1/8" and their ends
are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright
directly under the seat.
Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them.
Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.
The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit
individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully
between coats.
The seat can be upholstered if desired.
METHOD OF BENDING RUNNERS.
Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and
allow them to remain about five hours.
Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the
top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays
flat on the front edges of the other steps.
Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood.
Plate 55 shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be
bent in the same manner.
Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.
SKI SKIPPERS.
The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great
speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the
crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.
[Illustration: The Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.]
The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4"
wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.)
The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from
the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.
[Illustration: _Plate 56._
_SKI SKIPPER_]
Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned
down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.
Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to
the point where they curve upward.
This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various
methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a
sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a
power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.
The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish.
When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent,
using the method shown in Plate 55.
The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" × 2-1/2" × 12", and the
single slat for the foot rest 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 12".
The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and
1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot
slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between
the edges.
The seat supports are first cut 7/8" × 7-1/2" × 9-1/2" and then an inch
is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the
lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as
shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" × 3" × 9".
The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" × 3" × 3-1/2". On
the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and
draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as
indicated. Round these upper corners.
Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where
they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing.
There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the
smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head
screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these
points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.
It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the
supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges
of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of
the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.
Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is
attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.
Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached
eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head
screws. A screw eye is placed in each block, of a size sufficient to
receive a 3/8" rope.
It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent
splitting the block.
A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint
should be applied.
DOLL SLEIGH.
While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a
doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will
be suitable for a small child.
First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting
them 9" wide by 26" long.
On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the
corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the
corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a
circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will
be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the
lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it
strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the
circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a
chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel
slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.
[Illustration: The Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby
brother or sister.]
Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" × 10" × 16-1/2". Two braces, to go
below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" × 3" × 8-1/2".
These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is
obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite
lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.
The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" × 8" × 22". On the top edge
measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand
lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the
right-hand upper corner.
From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From
the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make
another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end.
From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge
1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in
the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the
upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.
The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" × 6" × 11" and the rear end
1/2" × 9" × 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8"
from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane
to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.
Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and
trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.
The two handles are made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 23-1/2", and the top piece, or
grip, 1" × 1-1/4" × 19".
The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.
Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a
medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough
to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The
ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the
runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head
screws.
Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold
the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the
body of sleigh at places most convenient.
Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross
braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head
screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with
3/16" × 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured
with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.
If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap
iron.
Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If
stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the
front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats
of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat
of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.
[Illustration: _Plate 57._
_DOLL'S SLEIGH_]
If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color
scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or
two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each
coat.
CHILD'S TABLE.
This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in
large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.
The chair shown in Plate 59 fits compactly under the table and takes up
but little room.
The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in
diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards
must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue
is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces
in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw
and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.
The four legs are 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed
to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" × 3" ×
24".
These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as
indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these
braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.
The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue
screws.
[Illustration: Children's Table and Chairs.]
The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number
of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job.
The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the
lower leg braces. See sketch B, Plate 58. These lower braces are 3/4" ×
1-3/8" × 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same
as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and
1-1/2" round-head screws.
[Illustration: _Plate 58._
_CHILD'S TABLE_]
All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper
and then finished with No. 0.
The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may
be finished in enamel.
If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white
applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the
final coat of enamel applied.
Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil
if desired.
CHILD'S CHAIR.
Plate 59 gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in
Plate 58.
The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25"
long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" × 9-5/8". The lower rail is
notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8"
deep.
The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4"
above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and
assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.
It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail
each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the
hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting.
While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made.
These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 8-1/4".
The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long.
Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on
the drawing.
A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support
the seat, is made 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the
sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under
side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
The seat is made 7/8" × 10" × 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to
receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges.
Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as
shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be
treated as described for the table.
[Illustration: _Plate 59._
_CHILD'S CHAIR_ (_To match table on preceding plate_)]
INDEX
Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability, 15
Bean Bag Game, 72-4
Bench Hook, 22-4
Camel, 38
Child's Cart, 93-5;
Chair, 130-1;
Dump Wagon, 95-9;
Snow Shovel, 46-7;
Step Ladder, 59-63;
Table, 128-30;
Wash Bench, 57-9;
Wheelbarrow (Type A), 99-103, (Type B), 102-5
Clown Running Wheel, 105-9
Cock Horse, 109-10
Colonial Doll's Chair, 66-7;
Cradle, 87-9;
Table, 64-6
Coping Saw Work, 26-7
Darts, 75-7
Dart Board Game, 74-6
Dippy Duck, 40-1
Doll's Bed, 89-91;
Clothes Rack, 55-7;
Cradle, 84-7;
Ironing Board (Size A), 49-51, (Size B), 51-3, (Size C), 53-5;
Sleigh, 125-8;
Table with Drawer, 62-4
Dowel Sticks, 27
Duck, 30
Elephant, 33
Equipment, 13-4
Finish and Color, 15-7
Five Post Ring Toss, 68-72
Goat, 36
Goose, 31
History of Toy-Making, 11-3
Kiddie Kar, 113-15;
Koaster, 116-19
Lamb, 35
Laying Out Work, 14
Merrimac, 44-5
Method of Bending Runners, 121-2;
of Enlarging Figures, 39-40;
of Jointing Wood, 18-20
Monitor, 42-3
Pelican, 29
Periscope, 47-8
Picture Puzzle Construction, 27-8
Rabbit, 34
Rhinoceros, 32
Ring-The-Hook Game, 68-9
Rocking Rooster, 111-13
Rooster, 37
Sand or Water Mill, 82-4
Simple Tool Sharpening, 24-6
Ski Skippers, 122-5
Ski Skooter, 119-22
Staining, 17-8
Support to be Held in Vise, 20-2;
for Holding Coping Saw Work, 20;
for Table Use, 22
Transferring a Design, 14-5
Two Types of Stilts, 91-3
Wind Mill, 77-80; (Type B) 80-2
Transcriber's Note.
The equals sign has been used to show 'bold' in this etext.
A few minor typographical errors were amended.
"heighth" changed to "height".
"Sonnenburg" changed to "Sonnenberg"
Title of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent
punctuation and this was systematised.
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