| By Author | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Title | [ A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z | Other Symbols ] |
| By Language |
|
Download this book: [ ASCII | PDF ] Look for this book on Amazon Tweet |
Title: The Tourist's Guide through the Country of Caernarvon - containing a short sketch of its History, Antiquities, &c.
Author: Williams, P. B.
Language: English
As this book started as an ASCII text book there are no pictures available.
*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The Tourist's Guide through the Country of Caernarvon - containing a short sketch of its History, Antiquities, &c." ***
This book is indexed by ISYS Web Indexing system to allow the reader find any word or number within the document.
COUNTRY OF CAERNARVON***
Transcribed from the 1821 J. Hulme edition by David Price, email
ccx074@pglaf.org
THE
TOURIST’S GUIDE
THROUGH THE
Country of Caernarvon,
CONTAINING A SHORT SKETCH
OF ITS
HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, &c.
* * * * *
By the Rev. P. B. Williams, A.B.
_RECTOR OF LLANRUG AND LLANBERIS_.
* * * * *
_CAERNARVON_:
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY J. HULME,
_Bookbinder & Stationer_, _Turf-Square_.
AND MAY BE HAD OF POOLE & HARDING, CHESTER; R. TAYLOR,
LIVERPOOL; AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS
—_o_—
1821.
* * * * *
TO
THOMAS JAMES WARREN BULKELEY,
Lord Viscount Bulkeley
OF CASHEL, IN THE KINGDOM OF IRELAND;
_AND BARON BULKELEY_,
OF BEAUMARIS, IN THE KINGDOM OF ENGLAND;
PEER OF THE REALM;
LORD LIEUTENANT, & CUSTOS HOTULORUM, OF THE COUNTY OF CAERNARVON
CHANCELLOR AND CHAMBERLAIN OF NORTH WALES;
CONSTABLE OF BEAUMARIS CASTLE, &c. &c.
A Nobleman, whose sole study is to do Good, and to promote the Happiness
and Welfare of his Fellow Creatures; and who is highly Esteemed, and
greatly and justly Beloved in this part of the Principality; and has
repeatedly and deservedly received the Thanks of the Bench of
Magistrates, as well as those of the Established Militia, under their
gallant Commander, Col. EDWARDS, and the other Officers, for the
Admirable Method with which he has Organized the County, and his ready
Attention and Assistance at all Times when requisite,—This little
Publication, is most Respectfully inscribed, by
His Lordship’s
Most obedient,
And most devoted
Humble Servant,
_P. B. WILLIAMS_.
Llanrug, April 9, 1821.
ADVERTISEMENT.
THE following small compilation (for it claims no higher title) was made
at the request of several friends, as the want of such a little Manuel
principally for the use of Strangers, was generally known and
acknowledged. The Writer would not have permitted his name to appear,
had he not been persuaded by the Publisher, that the countenance of even
such an obscure individual would in some degree tend to promote the sale
of the work. Some of the Subscribers, there is reason to apprehend,
expect a full and complete History of the County, but surely they do not
suppose that such a work could be compressed within the compass of an
octavo volume, or sold for such a small sum.
At some future period, the Writer would not be unwilling to undertake
such a Publication, (should he meet with proper encouragement, and his
life be spared) as he has for many years been collecting materials for
such a work.
Subscribers’ Names.
Most Noble the Marquis of Anglesey, 6 copies
Rev. Thomas Alban, Llandrillo’n rhos 3 copies, bound
Mr. Ambrose, Penrhyn Arms Inn
* * * * *
Viscount Warren Bulkeley, 6 copies bound
Lord Bishop of Bangor, 4 copies
— Beresford, Esq. Carnarvon
J. Bradley, Esq. Plastirion
Harwood Banner, Esq. Liverpool
C. Brown, Esq. Manchester
Mr. Bettiss, Hotel, Carnarvon, 6 copies 1 bound
.. Black, Organist, Carnarvon
.. Broster, Bangor
.. T. Bowers, Chester
* * * * *
Rev. J. H. Cotton, Bangor, 2 copies
Edward Carreg, Esq. Carnarvon, bd
R. T. Carreg, Esq. Cefn mine, bound
* * * * *
Very Rev. The Dean of Bangor
— Dawson, Esq. Bangor
Mr. Davies, Crown & Anchor Inn, Bangor, 2 copies
.. Day, Schoolmaster, Carnarvon
.. J. Davies, Slate Merchant, do.
.. Davies, Mercer, Carnarvon
.. William Dalrymple, Liverpool
.. Davies, Bee Inn, Abergeleu
* * * * *
Colonel Edwards, Nanhoron, 6 copies
Miss Edwards, Nanhoron
J. Evans, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon
J. G. Evans, Esq. Carnarvon
Hugh Evans, Esq. Henblas
John Ellis, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli
Rev. T. Ellis, near Llanrwst
Mr. Evan Evans, Solicitor, Carnarvon
.. E. Evans, Shopkeeper, do.
.. R. Evans, Grocer, do.
.. Owen Ellis, do.
.. T. Evans, Brazier, Bangor
.. Ellis, Surveyor of Customs, Beaumaris
.. Evans, Tanner, Dolydd
.. Eyres, Druggist, Liverpool
.. J. Evans, Ty’n y coed, Abereirch bound
* * * * *
Right Honorable Maurice Fitzgerald, M.P. Knight of Kerry, bound
Mr. Fleming, Green, Carnarvon
.. Edmund Francis, do.
.. H. Field, Castle Inn, Bangor
.. Fletcher, Bangor
* * * * *
R. Garnons, Esq. Carnarvon, 1 dozen
John Griffith, Esq. Llanfair, 4 copies
W. G. Griffith, Esq. Bodegroes, 2 copies 1 bound
Joseph Goddard, Esq. Carnarvon
Holland Griffith, Esq. Garreglwyd
R. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli, bd
J. Griffith, Esq. Solicitor, Llanrwst
Rev. D. Griffith, Llanfair, Anglesey, bd
Rev. W. Griffith, Rector of Llandwrog, and Chaplain of H. M. Dock Yard,
Pembroke
Miss Griffith, 78 Aungier Street, Dublin
Miss M. A. Gething, Holyhead
Mr. Philip Gale, Stationer, Liverpool
.. H. Griffith, Druggist, Carnarvon, bd
.. O. Griffith, Tryfan
.. J. Griffith, Clynog, Anglesey
.. G. Griffith, Four-mile bridge
* * * * *
Captain Haslam, Carnarvon, 6 copies
— Hewitt, Esq. Bangor
Thomas Hughes, Esq. Solicitor, L—pool
Rev. J. Hamer, Bangor
.... Morris Hughes, Llandegai
.... J. Holland, Dolbenmaen
.... L. Hughes, Llanllechid
.... Richard Hughes, Brynllwyd
.... E. Herbert, Llanfair fechen
.... G. Herbert, Amlwch
.... H. Hughes, Llanfaethle, bound
Dr. Hughes, Pwllheli
Lieutenant Hughes, Carnarvon
Miss Howard, Conway, 3 copies
Mr. Hughes, Waterloo Tavern, Bangor 3 copies
.. R. Hughes, Shopkeeper, do bd
.. R. Hughes, Boot-maker, do bd
.. Hughes; Merchant, Carnarvon, bd
.. Hughes, Goat Inn, do
.. J. Hughes, Currier, Llanrwst
.. Hyman, Jeweller, Bangor, bd
Mrs. Hartwell, Post Office, Carnarvon, bound
Mr. Humphreys, Customs, ditto
.. Hobson, Factor, Birmingham
.. Hughes, Draper, Pwllheli, bd
.. Hughes, Timber Merchant, Pwllheli
* * * * *
Thomas Jones, Esq. Bryntirion 2 cop. 1 bound
John Jonas, Esq. Solicitor, Beaumaris
Robert Jones, Esq. Pen y bryn, bound
Rev. H. W. Jones, Treiorwerth, three copies
.... Henry Jones, Ty coch
.... J. Jones, Mynydd Ednyfed
.... Mr. Jones, Rector of Criciaeth
.... J. Jones, Llanllyfni, bound
.... Robert Jones, Boduan
.... J. Jones, Llanbedr goch
Rev. D. Jones, Llandoged
Mr. J. Jackson, Capel Curig Inn, six copies, 1 bound
.. Edward Jones, Ty’n y maes, 6 cop
Dr. Jones, Pwllheli, bound
Captain Jones, Pant howel
Mrs. Jones, Castellmai
Miss Jones, ditto
.... Jervoise, Litchfield
.... Jump, Liverpool
Mr. William Jones, Attorney, Carnarvon
Mr. Robert Jones, Shopkeeper, Ditto
.. Owen Jones, Merchant, Ditto
.. Jones, Currier, Ditto
.. Thomas Jones, Customs, Beaumaris
.. John Jonas, Goaler, Carnarvon
.. Jones, Pen y bryn, Eglwys bach
.. Richard Jones, Union, Carnarvon, bound
.. Jones, Eagles Inn, Llanrwst, bd
.. J. Jones, Surgeon, do
.. Robert Jones, Timber Merchant, St. Asaph
.. Jones, Machine Tavern, Rhudlan
.. H. Jones, Grocer, Abergeleu
.. William Jones, Mine Agent, Llandudno
* * * * *
Rev. J. Kyffin, Bangor, bound
.... J. Kyffin, Llanystyndwy, bound
Mr. William Kyffin, Eglwys fach, bd
.. M‘Kergow, Boduan
* * * * *
John Lloyd, Esq. Pen y glannau, Maentwrog, 6 copies
Colonel Lloyd, Marle, bound
T. Lloyd, Esq. Glangwna
Mrs. Lloyd, do
Miss F. Lloyd, do
J. T. Lloyd, Esq. Shrewsbury
Mrs. J. T. Lloyd, do
John Lane, Esq. Staffordshire
R. Llwyd, Esq. (Author of ‘Beaumaris Bay,’) Bank Place, Chester
J. E. Lloyd, Esq. Trallwyn
— Ludgate, Esq. Liverpool
Rev. William Lloyd, Festiniog
Miss Lewis, Mount Hazle
Mr. Lloyd, Collector of Excise, Carnarvon
.. L. Louis, Schoolmaster, Abergeleu
.. John Lloyd, Architect, Carnarvon
Miss A. Lewis, Bangor
Mr. Lewis, Bull’s-head Inn, Aber, bd
.. Lloyd, Druggist, Liverpool, bound
.. Lloyd, Brynkir, bound
.. Richard Leister, Llanrhos
* * * * *
Mr. M‘Lean, Gwynfryn
.. Lenthal, Maenan
Colonel Mc Gregor
Rev. H. Majendie, Bangor, 2 copies
Captain Majendie
W. Mason, Esq. M. D. Carnarvon
Rev. T. G. Moulsdale, Llanfair Talhaiarn
Mr. Morgan, Bank, Carnarvon
.. Millington, do
.. Mumford, Supervisor, Conway
.. H. Morris, Ty gwyn, Llanrug
* * * * *
O. J. E. Nanney, Esq. Gwynfryn, 2 copies, 1 bound
Rev. Mr. Nanney, Belmont
Mr. Nembard, Plasmadoc
.. Nichols, Tan yr allt Nursery
* * * * *
E. Owen, Esq. Carnarvon
Captain Robert Owen, Carnarvon
Rev. G. Owen, Carnarvon, 6 copies
.... E. Owen, Llaniestyn
.... E. A. Owen, Holyhead
.... J. Owen, Conway
Mr. Owen, Attorney, Carnarvon
.. Owen, Druggist, do
.. W. Owen, Shopkeeper, do
.. Humphrey Owen, Rhyddgaer, Anglesey
.. Ormerod, Gwyndu
Miss M. Owen, Inn, Festiniog
* * * * *
G. H. Dawkins Pennant, Esq. M.P.
Mrs. Pennant
T. P. I. Parry, Esq. Madryn, 3 copies
Colonel Parry, do bound
Captain Parry, R. N. Carnarvon
W. St. George Pelisier, Esq. Priory
Paul Panton, Esq. Plasgwyn
O. A. Poole, Esq. Gorphwysfa
Colonel Peacock, Anglesey
Iohn Price, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon 2 copies
Messrs. Poole and Harding, Chester 6 copies
Dr. Pring, Bangor
Rev. H. Price, Friars, Bangor
.... T. Parry, Treborth
.... H. Pugh, Llansaintffraid
.... O. Parry, Llanfair yn nghornwy
Mr. I. Prichard, Beddgelert, 2 copies
.. Edward Price, Carnarvon
.. Parry, Treborth, bound
.. Paul, Bangor
.. Powell, Customs, Carnarvon
.. Preece, Schoolmaster, do
.. Payne, Liquor Merchant, do
.. Robert Pritchard, Liverpool
Mr. Parry, Harp, Carnarvon, bound
.. R. Price, Traeth coch
.. O. H. Parry, Cromlech
.. Preston, Four-mile bridge
* * * * *
Hugh Rowlands, Esq. Ty mawr, Clynog
Iohn Rowlands, Esq. Plastirion
E. Griffith Roberts, Esq. Aber
W. Roberts, Esq. Oakland, Llanrwst
Robert Roberts, Esq. Bank, Carnarvon
Iohn Roberts, Esq. Dep. Reg. Bangor
Rev. Mr. Roberts, Hendre, 2 copies
.... I. Roberts, Llanengan. 2 copies
.... Owen Reynolds, Aber, bound
.... T. Read, Beaumaris
.... Ellis Roberts, Bangor, bound
.... H. Rowlands, Beaumaris
.... W. Roberts, Gallt y beren
Mr. Redding, Bull’s Head Inn, Beaumaris, 6 copies
.. Iohn Roberts, Surgeon, Carnarvon
.. W. Roberts, Surgeon, Green, do
.. H. Roberts, Carnarvon, bound
.. Roberts, Surgeon, Bangor
.. Rathbone, Druggist, do
.. Rouse, Harp Inn, Conway
.. Roberts, Surgeon, Llanrwst
.. Roberts, Watch-maker, Bangor
.. Richards, Tailor, Carnarvon
.. Richardson, Factor, Birmingham
.. Rhodes, Attorney, Liverpool
.. Rasbrook, Post Office, Bangor
.. Richardson, Carnarvon
.. G. Roberts, Clynog
.. Rice, Crown and Anchor, Pwllheli bound
.. Roberts, Attorney, Pwllheli
.. Roberts, Liquor merchant, do
.. Radford, Guard of the Prince Regent Coach
.. Robert Roberts, Holyhead
.. Read, Attorney, Llanrwst
Mrs. Roberts, Glass Shop, Carnarvon
.... Roberts, Ty hen, Llwyngwnadl
* * * * *
T. A. Smith, Esq. Vaynol, 4 copies
Captain Sewell, Carnarvon
* * * * *
Rice Thomas, Esq. Coed helen
William Turner, Esq. Parkia, near Carnarvon
Rev. J. W. Trevor, do
.... I. Titley, Llanrwst
.... W. Thomas, Trefor, Beamaris
Mr. Titterton, Carnarvon, bound
.. Thomas, Surgeon, bound
.. Thomas, Druggist, Llanrwst
Mr. Toleman, Watch-maker, Carnarvon
.. Richard Taylor, Bookseller, Liverpool, 2 copies
.. David Thomas, Bard of Snowdon
Miss Thomas, Port Penrhyn, Bangor bound
* * * * *
I Utterson, Esq. Bangor, bound
* * * * *
C. W. W. Wynne, Esq. M.P. Llangedwin
H. R. Williams, Esq. Penrhos
R. Lloyd Williams, Esq. Denbigh 2 copies
W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Pwllheli bound
Iames Wyatt, Esq. Lime Grove, two copies
Archibald Worthington, Esq. Bangor
I. Williams, Esq. Pant, Anglesey
Thomas Williams, Esq. Beaumaris
William Williams, Esq. Hendrewaelod
Iohn Williams, Esq. Tregarnedd
Richard Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon
W. Williams, Esq. Solicitor, Carnarvon
Rev. W. Williams, Bangor Street, do
Robert Williams, Esq. Solicitor, do bd
Rev. R. Williams, Friars, Bangor bd
.... D. Williams, Llandwrog
.... Iames Williams, Treffos, Anglesey
.... Hugh Williams, Clynog, 2 copies
.... Dr. Williams, Llanbedrog
.... W. Williams, Trawsfynydd
.... E. Williams, Llanrhaiadr
.... G. Williams, Weeg
.... Mr. Williams, Treffos
.... Gethin Williams, Rhiwlas, bd
.... I. Williams, Llanbedr
Captain Walker, Bangor
Mr. Williams, Castle Inn, do. 3 copies
.. E. Williams, Strand, London, two dozen
.. Williams, Druggist, Carnarvon bd
.. Williams, Land Surveyor, Bangor
.. Williams, Solicitor, do
.. I. Willians, Shopkeeper, Carnarvon
.. Robert Williams, do do
.. Williams, Pool Street do
.. Williams, Plumber do
.. Wakeman do bd
.. Owen Wynne, do bd
.. Williams, Druggist, Pwllheli
.. I. Watkin, Tanner, Abereirch
.. H. D. Williams, Surgeon, Llansaintffraid
HISTORY
OF
_CARNARVONSHIRE_.
CARNARVONSHIRE, one of the six Counties of North Wales, is bounded on the
West by the Irish sea, on the North by the strait called Menai, which
divides it from Anglesey; Merionethshire extends along the Southern
coast, and Denbighshire limits the Eastern.
As Travellers generally enter this County either along the Conway or
Capel Curig Road, it may be more convenient, for their sakes, to commence
its History with a short account of the Town and neighbourhood of
CONWAY.
But before we proceed to a description of the Town, it may be necessary
to inform the stranger that there is a District of this County, on the
Denbighshire, or East side of the River Conway; and whether he be a
Botanist, a Mineralogist, a Naturalist, or Antiquary, he may, if he have
leisure, spend a few days on this side of the water with pleasure and
advantage. This detached part of the County of Carnarvon is called
_Creuddin yn Rhos_, and is celebrated for producing very excellent wheat;
it contains three Parishes, Llangwstenin, Llan Rhôs, or more properly
Llanfair yn Rhôs, and Llandudno.—In and about the ruins of old Diganwy,
or Dingonwy, now called _y Faerdre_, and in Gloddaith woods, the Botanist
will find a great number of rare Plants, while the Mineralogist will be
tempted to examine the Copper Mines at Llandudno, and the Historian and
Antiquary be induced to visit the curious collection of old Books and
Manuscripts, in the libraries of Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, (Bod
Caswallawn) two old family seats, belonging to Sir Thomas Mostyn Bart.
the former built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, since which period it
has undergone very little or no alteration, and almost all the old
furniture is preserved in the same state. Marle has also been a fine old
house, but was nearly burnt down about seventy years ago; it was at one
time the property of the Hollands, then of Sir Gryffydd Williams, of
Penrhyn, and on the death of his grandson Sir Robert, it devolved to Sir
Thomas Prendergast, an Irish Gentleman, in right of his Lady, Anne,
sister to Sir Robert, but at present this house, as well as the Ferry of
Conway, art in the possession of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great
Marlow.
On the very summit of the high Promontory of Ormshead, or Gogarth, is
situated the small Church of Llandudno, dedicated to St. Tudno, whose
rocking stone (Maen sigl or Cryd-Tudno) is not very far distant. On the
Western side of this Mountain is a tremendous precipice, over-hanging the
sea, and these rocks are frequented in the summer season by great numbers
of birds of passage; the Gulls occupy the lowest range, above them are
the Razor-bills and Guillemots, over these croak the Corvorants, and the
Herons possess the uppermost projections and ledges of this stupendous
rock; the Peregrine Falcon also builds his nest in these impending crags.
In the days of Falconry these birds were considered so excellent, that
the great minister BURLEIGH, sent a letter of thanks to an ancestor of
Sir Thomas MOSTYN’S, for a present of a cast of Hawks from this place.
The British name of this hill, _Gogarth_, seems to be derived from ogo,
or gogo, a Cave, and Garth, a Promontory, for there are several caves
under this rock, and particularly one very large, inaccessible except by
water; not far from it are the ruins of an old Palace, belonging to the
Bishops of Bangor; there is also a farm house near the spot, known by the
above name, Gogarth. Mr. Pennant says, (but upon what authority is not
known) that this tract of Land was an appendage of the Abbey of Conway.
The Castle of Deganwy, or Dingonwy, called by the English, Ganoe, and
afterwards, by the fault of transcribers, corrupted into Gannock, was
celebrated in the wars, between the two nations; the small remains of it
are on two hills, not far from the shore of the river, nearly opposite
the Town of Conway, but nearer to the sea; there is a house a little
below it, which still bears the name, and was lately inhabited by Lord
Kirkwall; the walls of the old Castle surrounded these two rocks, and on
the summit of one of them is the vestige of a round Tower;—In all
probability this, as well as most Welsh Castles, was originally
constructed of _timber_, as it is asserted in our Histories, that it was
destroyed by lightning, in the year 810, {12}—the founder of it is not
known. It was afterwards rebuilt, and was for some time in the
possession of the Earls of Chester, when it was again destroyed by
Llewelyn the Great;—Randle de Blondeville then repaired it, and King John
encamped under its walls in the year 1211, and was reduced to great
distress by the skill and prudence of Llewelyn, who contrived to cut off
his supplies. Henry III. suffered still greater calamities near this
place, in the year 1245, at which time John de Grey, of Wilton, was
Constable; one of his courtiers most pathetically describes their
miseries. At length Diganwy was in 1260 totally dismantled by our last
Prince, Llewelyn ap Gryffydd.
Not far from hence, on the top of a hill, is an ancient Tower; its form
is circular, its height about 20 feet, the diameter 12; its walls compose
only two thirds of a circle, the rest is open. In all probability it was
a Watch Tower, and connected with Diganwy as a place of retreat. The
name of this District, Creuddin, seems to be derived from Creu, or Crau,
blood, or gore, and Din, or Dinas, a fortified place; and was so
denominated, in all probability, from the many bloody battles fought here
between the English and Welsh. The fine view of Conway Castle and the
Bennarth woods, from this side of the river, is greatly and deservedly
admired. The original name of Conway was Caer Gyffin, and it probably
was inhabited, and was a place of some strength, prior to the
establishment of a Cistercian Abbey here, in 1185, by Llewelyn ap
Jorwerth, Prince of North Wales, and it then no doubt increased in
opulence and respectability, as the privileges of the members of this
community, like many others of a similar description, were very
considerable; in the first place they were to be exempt in all parts from
Tolls and Pontage, and they had a right to a free passage over the
ferries of the Menai, Conway, Barmouth, and Dyfi, (or Dôfwy) and it was
endowed with Lands to a great extent, both in this County and in
Anglesey; Caput Wedva vawr, (Snowdon) Crib Goch, near Llanberis, and
Morfa Dinlle, are mentioned. The Castle was built by Edward the first,
about the year 1284, who being apprehensive, probably, that he might find
these monks and their attendants very unpleasant and troublesome
neighbours, he removed them to Maenan, about 8 miles higher up on the
Denbighshire side of the river, and not far from Llanrwst, where there is
an old family seat belonging to Lord Newborough, which still retains the
name of the Abbey. The town of Conway has four entrances: The upper
Gate, the lower, or that next to the River, a Portal between that and the
Castle, and another to the Creek called Porth y felin, or the Gate to the
mill. Mr. PENNANT’S observation with respect to this place is this, “a
more ragged Town is scarcely to be seen _within_, or a more beautiful one
_without_;” the form is nearly triangular, surrounded with lofty Walls,
and guarded by 24 round Towers; the lower face of the triangle borders on
the River. The Castle is built on a lofty rock, at the S. E. corner, and
is generally considered (as the same Historian remarks,) a structure of
“matchless magnificence,” and a more beautiful Fortress, perhaps, never
arose. The Architect, Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, (the person under
whose direction Carnarvon Castle was also built) seems to have exerted
all his skill here. It had two entrances, one up a steep rock from the
River, with winding stairs, and ending in a small advanced work, before
one of the Gates of the Castle, and protected by small round Towers; at
the other extremity is a similar work; from which there was a drawbridge
into the Town.—Over a great Foss, in one of the great Towers, is a
beautiful oriel window. The form of this Fortress is oblong, one side is
bounded by the River, another by a Creek, full of water at every tide;
within are two Courts, and on the outside project eight vast Towers, each
with a slender one of amazing elegance issuing from its top, within which
was a winding staircase.
The great Hall was very magnificent, and was of a curved form,
conformable to the bend of the outward Walls, including one end with a
large window, which seems to have been the private Chapel; it was one
hundred and thirty feet in length, and thirty broad, and of great height;
the roof was supported by eight noble Arches, six of which still remain
there was a great fireplace at one end, and another on the side, it had
six windows to the country and three to the Court, and beneath it were
vast Vaults and Cellars. The foundation of one of the Towers next the
Creek has been undermined, and it is now denominated the _Hanging Tower_.
Edward the First made this Town a Free Borough, and ordered that the
Mayor (who was the Constable of the Castle for the time being) should
preserve its privileges. William Sikun was appointed first to that
honor. At present it is governed by one Alderman, a Recorder, Coroner,
Water-bailiff, and two Serjeants at Mace, chosen annually. Its
privileges extended from Carnarvon to the River Clwyd, and no one could
be convicted of any crime within its limits, except by a Jury collected
in that District, and such was the case with all the other English
Garrisons in North Wales.
Conway is a Contributory Borough, with Carnarvon, Pwllheli, Nevin, and
Crickaeth, in returning a Member to Parliament. The Great Sessions for
the County were formerly held here, alternately with Carnarvon, but the
latter place being more central, enjoys that privilege at present
exclusively. The resident population in this Parish in 1801 was 889.
The Market is on Friday. Conway is 232 miles N.W. from London. The
passage over the river is attended with many inconveniences, and not many
years ago a boat was upset, and several lives lost. The ferrymen are
said to be very uncivil, and are accused of practising great impositions
on strangers. {17} The regular charge ought to be one penny for a foot
passenger, two-pence for a man and horse, and half a crown a wheel for a
carriage, but they generally demand more than double these sums, and then
importune for liquor.
It is to be hoped that when the improvements now executing on the
Shrewsbury road are completed, Government will pay the same attention to
the Chester line, and that a Bridge will be erected here, over the
Conway; as this is the principal communication between Dublin and the
North of England.
Plas mawr, (the great mansion) an old house in the centre of the town,
built by Robert Wynne, Esq. a branch of the Gwydir family, in the year
1585, will be likely to attract the traveller’s attention. Over the
gateway are the words Anechou, Apechou, sustine, abstine; and on the
House these capital letters, IHS. X.P.S. being the Ancient method of
inscribing our Saviour’s name. The Church, the ruins of an old Abbey,
and another old House, called the College, also claim a visit from the
stranger.
Gyffin, a Parish Church, about half a mile off, on the road to Llanrwst,
is a Stipendiary Cure, and is generally annexed to Conway. The late
Doctor Jones, Dean of Bangor, left £100. the interest of which he
directed to be applied to the keeping of a School here. The Vicarage of
Conway, as well as Gyffin, are in the patronage of the Bishop of Bangor.
On the summit of the hill below the town, and nearly opposite to the
bifurcated rock, on which stood the Castle of Diganwy, are the ruins of
an ancient fortification, of a circular form, with only one entrance, and
this probably is the place mentioned by Leland, in his Itinerary, and
which he denominates Sinnodun, and where, he says, there are the remains
of a great work; it is described by him as being a mile out of the town,
but in what direction is not mentioned. Camden also mentions a British
Post, called Caer Lleion, surrounded by Ditches and strong Ramparts, on a
lofty hill, near Conway marsh. The Castle of Sinnodun is also
represented as being situated near this place, in a Map of the County,
annexed to a very old edition of that Author’s Britannia. As this small
work is intended merely as a guide to the Tourist, in his excursion
through the County, it cannot be expected to contain a very _detailed_ or
_particular_ account of every object, which may deserve attention; for
this reason the Compiler must pass over the siege of this Castle, during
the Rebellion, in Oliver Cromwell’s time, and merely observe, that the
custody of it was committed by the King to Archbishop Williams, of the
Penrhyn family, near Bangor, and after the gentlemen and freeholders of
the neighbourhood had placed a number of valuable articles under his
care, and for which he had given them receipts, and thus became
answerable for the property, he was, in 1645, cruelly dispossessed by
Prince Rupert, without assigning any reason for this strange conduct; it
was taken, however, from the Prince in June, 1646, by General Mytton.
The Archbishop was buried in the Church of Llandegai, near Bangor, where
his Monument is still to be seen.
It would puzzle any one, unacquainted with the mistakes and blunders of
transcribers, to conjecture how TOISOBIUS should become PTOLEMY’S
CONOBIUS, or Conovius, (or Conovium) but when we reflect a little, it may
be supposed, that the initial C, might be easily mistaken for T, and the
v converted into b, so as to form TOINOBIUS, instead of COINOVIUS. The
derivation of the word Cynwy, seems to be, as Mr. Edward Llwyd
conjectures, from _Cyn_, chief or principal, and _Gwy_, or _wy_, water;
the prefix _cyn_, being augmentative, as cyn-gann, very white; cyn-dynn,
very stiff; or signifying first or chief, as cynfyd, the old antediluvian
world; cyn-ddydd, daybreak; and Dr. Davies supposes _cyn_ to be
synonymous with penn, as _cyntaf_, _penaf_, first or chief. Admitting
this, _Cungetorix_ would be _Cyntwrch_, and _Cunobelinus_, _Cynfelyn_,
_&c._
The River Conway has been celebrated for ages, for its muscle-pearl
fishery. Pliny informs us, that Julius Cæsar dedicated to Venus
Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a Breastplate set with British Pearls;
and Suetonius alledges the acquisition of these, as one motive for his
invasion of the Island. Mr. Edward Llwyd asserts that the pearls found
in this river are as large, and as well coloured, as any in Great Britain
or Ireland, and says that he saw several very fine large ones in the
possession of Robert Wynne, Esq. of Bodysgallen. Mr. Pennant
distinguishes this shell-fish by the name of _Mya Margaritifera_. A vein
of Burr, (a species of Mill-stones) was discovered near Conway, about the
year 1800, but being inferior in quality to those brought from France,
there is no great demand for them.
The ancient _Conovium_, for some time the station of the Tenth Roman
Legion, was no doubt at Caer Rhun, about five miles up the River, and
near the Parish Church of that name; as a Roman Hypocaust, a small
Shield, and a great number of Roman Coins were discovered there, by the
late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, late Vicar of the Parish, a gentleman of
great worth and integrity, highly esteemed and respected in his
neighbourhood, and a person who had a great taste for the study of
Antiquities. And what renders this conjecture more probable is this,
that there is a hill not far distant, which is still called Mynydd Caer
Lleon, or the Hill of the Legion. The Rev. W. Brickdale, at that time
Rector of Llanrwst, saw several Roman bricks, dug up near the Church of
Caer Rhun, which were inscribed LEG. X. This Legion was denominated
Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at Chester, (CAER LLEON GAWR, or
CAER LLEION AR DDYFRDWY) was distinguished by the name VICESSIMA VICTRIX,
and the Second Legion, stationed at CAER LEON, in Monmouthshire, or CAER
LLEON AR WYSC, was known by the title of AUGUSTA BRITANNICA. And there
was (no doubt) a Roman Road from hence to Segontium on the West, and to
Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys, on the East, and another probably through
Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y
street, Dolgelley; Castell y Beri, near Tal y Llynn, to Penal near
Machynlleth, where there was a Roman encampment, and where very
considerable remains were discovered.
The admirer of picturesque and romantic Scenery would, no doubt, consider
his time well employed, and find his propensity amply gratified, were he
to deviate here, from the direct road to Bangor and Carnarvon, and trace
the Conway to its source, or at least to its junction with the Lledr and
Machno; he would then pass very near Caer Rhun, the ancient Conovium, and
in proceeding along the banks of this beautiful River, would be able to
visit a great number of Water-falls, and he would find the Scenery
constantly changing, and new beauties presenting themselves to his view,
at almost every turn of the road. My limits will merely allow me to
enumerate some of the objects which claim his attention, and ought to be
visited, which are the numerous Cascades on the right, between Llanbedr
(near Caer Rhun) and Trevriw; the old House of Gwydir, and its beautiful
woods; the town of Llanrwst, and particularly the old Monuments in the
Church, to the memory of the Wynne’s, the ancient Proprietors of Gwydir,
and the handsome Bridge over the Conway, supposed to have been erected by
the celebrated Inigo Jones, who is said to have been a native of that
neighbourhood. Near this town are also several Lead Mines. The
traveller will then proceed through the Gwydir woods, up to the Village
of Bettws y Coed, and the new Iron Waterloo Bridge, over the Conway, on
the Great Irish Road; he will next visit the falls of the Conway and
Machno, and then return to Bettws, and proceed up the river Lligwy; when
about half way between that Village and Capel Curig Inn, he will stop to
view Rhaidr y Wennol, a tremendous Cateract, and from the last mentioned
Inn, he may either continue his rout along the Irish road to Bangor, or
direct his course to Bethgelert Village, which is a stage of twelve
miles, or turn off on the right from that road, after he has proceeded
about four miles, for the Village of Llanberris, through its wonderful
pass, and from the new Inn, which we shall have occasion hereafter to
notice, he will be able to procure a guide to the summit of Snowdon. But
as most strangers will no doubt proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall
be my endeavour to act as their guide, and mention some of the
particulars which are worth their attention along this line of road: For
the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he comes to an opening
between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when all of a sudden a
most magnificent scene presents itself: from hence he commands a full
view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of small vessels;
the Puffin, or Priestholm Island, the Village of Llangoed, the Town of
Beaumaris, Baron Hill, and the Friars; the former the beautiful seat of
Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter that of his brother, Sir Robert
Williams, Baronet, M.P. all on the Anglesey shore;—On the Carnarvonshire
side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle, and last, though not least, the huge
Pen-maen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, forming a natural
barrier, in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut off every
communication this way, and render any further progress impracticable;
the art of man has, however, at length conquered these difficulties, and
surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772 an excellent road was
formed along the edge of this once tremendous and dangerous precipice,
under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester, Parliament having
generously voted a grant for this purpose. Prior to this event several
fatal accidents had happened here, and one or two nearly miraculous
escapes are recorded in Mr. PENNANT’S Tour through North Wales. At that
time no carriages passed this way, and consequently all the travelling
was either on foot or on horseback. Dean Swift was generally a
Pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines, written on a
pane of glass at the old Inn, (now a Farm House) near this Mountain:—
Before you venture here to pass,
Take a good refreshing glass;—
And when you are over, take another,
Your fainting spirits to recover.
Before the Traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned,
to the little Vale of Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the
left, in order to examine some Antiquities, near a place called Gwddw
Glâs, in that Parish; here are several circles of stones of various
diameters, and large Carneddau, viz. Barrows, or Tumuli, supposed to have
been memorials of those Heroes who fell in the field of battle, as
_Cistfaens_, or Stone Coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these
circular heaps, or collections of stones. The principal Circle now
consists of ten upright stones, at unequal distances, the largest is
eight feet three inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two;
the diameter of this Circle is eighty feet. Near this are four other
smaller Circles, in the centre of one is a flat stone, the remains of a
Cromlech, from which it may be conjectured that it was a Druidical or
Bardic Circle. About a quarter of a mile from these is a large Circle,
composed of small stones, and near it another of large stones; and not
far from these another Circle, composed of small ones.—Near the last is a
huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the Stone of Games; and
nearly contiguous is a Carnedd, and a small Circle of twelve stones;
adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now called in this
country, Cyttiau Gwyddelod, (Woodmen or Irishmen’s Huts) being the
foundations of small buildings, made of rounded stones; and the vestige
of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the Conway.
Some of these last might probably have been the summer habitations or
encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion, stationed at Caer
Rhun or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their Cattle. Having
mentioned Maen y Campian, it may not perhaps be considered a digression
to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British Games, of which there were
ten _Gwrolgampau_, or manly games, viz. 1. To lift up great weights; 2.
Running; 3. Leaping; 4. Swimming; 5. Wrestling; 6. Riding. These six
were stiled _Tadogion_, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up persons,
and required only bodily strength and activity; this last, _Marchogaeth_,
is supposed to have included Charioteering, or the skilful driving and
management of different kinds of carriages. The other four were, 1.
Archery; 2. Playing with the Sword and Buckler; 3. Playing with the
Cleddau deuddwrn, or two-handed Sword; 4. Chwarau ffonn ddwybig, or
playing with the two-end Staff or Spear. Next to these were the ten
_Mabolgampau_, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men, viz. 1.
Coursing; 2. Fishing; 3. Fowling; the remaining seven were of the
domestic kind: 1. Barddoniaeth, or Poetical Composition; 2. Chwareu’r
Delyn, or paying upon the Harp; 3. Reading Welsh; 4. Singing with the
Harp; 5. Singing between three or four, most probably in alternate
Stanzas, or Pennillion; 6. Drawing or Painting, particularly Coats of
Arms; 7. Heraldry. After these were four _Gogampiau_, or Minor Games,
viz. 1. Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of Draughts; 2.
Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably Back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be
derived from the Welsh Language, viz. Bach, little, and _Cammawn_, or
Gammon, Battle, and Tewl-Bwrdd, means the toss on the table; 3. Chwarau
Ffristeal, or the Game of the Dice Box, in what manner it was played is
not known at present; 4. Cyweiriaw Telyn, or the Tuning of the Harp.
After visiting these Circles, the traveller may either proceed to the top
of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dwygyfylchi Church,
not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is Pendyffryn, the
seat of T. Smith, Esq.—In the clefts of the rock, above the
Turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the CRATÆGUS ARIA, or White Beam
Tree; Mr. Pennant observes that the Swiss procure a good kind of Ardent
Spirit from the berries. The summit of this mountain seems to have been
fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are
still visible the remains of a great number of Huts, or small buildings,
most probably at one time the habitations of Soldiers; it was no doubt a
strong military Post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the
Britons and Romans. The Roman Road, from Segontium to Conovium, must
have passed near it, probably on the South side; and this high mountain,
so conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind
of link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication between this
County and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick, (now
called Pen Dinas) a Roman Encampment in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen,
near Carnarvon, on the West, and from many fortified eminences in the
other County, on the East. The usual signals in ancient times were fires
by night, and a particular kind of flag by day. Having examined _Braich
y Dinas_, which is the name by which the fortified part of the mountain
is distinguished, we now proceed along the high road through the Parish
of Llanfair fechan, and leaving that small Church on an eminence, a
little to the left of the road, and on the right Brynn y Neuadd, an old
neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq.
and afterwards conveyed to the Wynne’s of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by
the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family, we soon pass
Gorddinog, (Mrs. Crawley’s) also on the left, and soon reach the
beautiful little Village of Aber, situated near a small river, and at the
entrance of a narrow Glenn. Near the Bridge is a Circular Mount,
seemingly artificial, which was the foundation of a small Castle,
probably constructed of timber, as many of our Welsh Fortresses are
stated to have been consumed by fire. Several of the Welsh Princes
resided occasionally at this place, and David ap Llywelyn died here,
about the year 1246, and was buried in the Abbey of Conway.
Traces of Buildings have been discovered near this spot, which were
probably the remains of the Prince’s Palace, as the inhabitants still
pretend to shew strangers the foundation of the old kitchen. Several
Memorials, &c. appear in our Welsh Histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn,
which is the ancient name by which this place was distinguished. William
de Breos, (son of Reginald, a potent Baron in the Reign of Henry III.)
who had been taken prisoner by the Welsh Prince Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, was
detected in an intrigue with Joan his wife, (daughter to the King of
England). The enraged Prince, upon the discovery of her infidelity,
caused her paramour to be hung on the side of the opposite hill; and
there is a tradition, that the Princess going out the next morning, and
accidentally meeting the Bard of the Palace, the latter (knowing that she
was ignorant of the fate of her lover) accosted her in the following
poetical rhyme:
Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,
Beth a roit ti am welad Gwilym?
that is, “Tell me wife of Llywelyn, what you would give for a sight of
your William?” to which she answered:—
Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn,
Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!
_i.e._ Wales and England, and Llywelyn,
I would give them all to see my William!
The Bard, on receiving this answer, shewed him to her, hanging on a tree,
on the side of a hill, at a place now called Wern Grogedig. It is added
in Camden, “Tradition buries De Breos in a Cave, in a field called Cae
Gwilym Ddu.” {30} Nearly at the extremity of this romantic Glenn, about
a mile from the Village, the River forms a noble Cataract, precipitating
itself down the front of a bold lofty rock, and making a double fall, the
lowest of which is of very considerable height. This Village is much
frequented in the summer season, and the accommodations at the Inn are
very good. The beach, at high water, is very convenient for sea-bathing,
and many strangers remain here some time for that purpose. There is a
road from hence, over the mountain, by Bwlch y Ddau Faen, to Tal y Cafn
ferry, Llanbedr and Llanrwst; and another over the sands to Beaumaris,
but this latter is not to be attempted by a stranger without a guide. It
is remarked by Mr. Pennant that all the Passes between the mountains were
guarded by Forts and Castles, for besides this at Aber, Craig y Gaer and
Maes y Gaer were fortified; and there was a Fort at Nant Ffranco; (or
Nant Afangcwn) near Pont y Twr, another at Dolbadarn, Nant Pevis; Castell
Cidwm, Nant y Bettws; Craig y Dinas, near Llanllyfni; a Fort near
Dolbenmaen, and an old Cattle at Dolydd Elen, and Dinas Emrys, in Nant
Gwynant, near Bethgelert. Lord Bulkeley is the proprietor of the
greatest part of the Parish of Aber, and he has been a great benefactor
to this Church, as well as to all the others in his Lordship’s Patronage,
having built a tower (or Steeple) to each, at his own expence, and
furnished them with Bells. The distance from hence to Bangor is about
five miles, and as the stranger proceeds he cannot help admiring the
ever-varying Scene, and the beauty of the prospects which present
themselves to his view: On the Anglesey shore, the Town of Beaumaris,
Baron Hill, The Friars, Red Hill, &c. claim his attention; and directly
before him, on the Carnarvonshire side, he will perceive the Village and
much-admired Church of Llandegai, and near it Penrhyn Woods and Castle,
rising in Majestic grandeur. The Church of Llandegai has lately been
very much improved and beautified, by means of a very handsome Legacy,
left by the late Lady Penrhyn for that purpose. The whole of the
interior has been renewed, viz. the Seats, Pulpit, Communion, Ceiling,
Plastering, and Floor, and the Tower raised, in order to admit a Peal of
Six Bells, a Legacy for which having been also left by Lady Penrhyn, as
well as one for the erection of a Monument to her deceased Lord, which is
now fixed up in the Church, and is a most superb and elegant piece of
work; it is made of Statuary Marble, and represents two Figures, one a
Quarryman, with an Iron Bar and Slate knife in his hand, reading the
inscription, and reflecting on the loss of his benefactors, the other is
a female Peasant Girl, weeping over the loss of her deceased Lord and
Lady; there are some other smaller Figures, very descriptive of the
progress of improvement amongst the Peasantry, under the directing
influence of his Lordship.
Whilst we are speaking of Llandegai Village and Church, we must not omit
here to notice a very great improvement, and accommodation to the public,
which has been effected, at very considerable expence, through the
liberality of Mr. Pennant, we mean the new piece of road, to the left,
made to avoid that dangerous and ugly hill near the Church. This part of
the County has within the last thirty years been abundantly improved by
the late Lord Penrhyn, under the judicious management and direction of
Benjamin Wyatt, Esq. of Lime Grove, his Lordship’s Agent, two individuals
who were real benefactors to the Country, and whose names have every
claim to the grateful recollections not only of the inhabitants of this
neighbourhood, but of all those whom business or pleasure may induce to
enter this County, by way of Capel Curig and Nant Ffrancon, which is now
the great Post Road from Shrewsbury to Holyhead. At the former place, an
Inn, upon a very commodious and extensive scale, has been erected by the
late Lord Penrhyn; and his successor, Mr. Pennant, with the view of
giving greater facility and convenience to Travellers, has lately erected
there a Cottage and Stables near the road, in order to give those who
might find it inconvenient to go down to the Inn, an opportunity of
changing horses at the road, and also for the better accommodation of the
Mail and Stage Coaches; he has likewise built new Stables at Tynymaes,
and made the Inn there into a Posting House, to divide that long and
tedious stage, which used to be from Capel Curig to Bangor-ferry. Capel
Curig is distant from Bangor about 15 miles, S.W.—The road to it is
carried up the romantic and stupendous Valley of Nant Ffrancon. The
formation of such a road, in so rude and unfrequented a region, was one
of the earliest and most important improvements which the late Lord
Penrhyn effected, in this part of the Country; it has since undergone, in
proportion to the increase of pecuniary resources, and to the progress of
other local improvements, frequent alterations, and is now, from the
munificence of Government, who have lately taken this affair into their
own hands, one of the most perfect and magnificent roads, in the kingdom.
But, important as this work was, at its commencement, under the public
spirit of Lord Penrhyn, it is far from being all which was accomplished
or promoted by that patriotic nobleman. The following extract from a
memoir of the late Mr. Wyatt, published in the North Wales Gazette for
January, 1818, will give us a more enlarged view of this matter:—
“It was by so able an exercise of his judgment and taste, that the
domain of Penrhyn, at that period a very wilderness, disregarded as a
place of residence, and the house in a state of venerable
dilapidation, was heightened into its present circumstances of
dignified and stately elegance—that a wild and unprofitable morass
has since been made to assume, in the admired situation and
arrangements of Lime Grove, the features of comfort, of profit, and
of ornament—that the agricultural properties of the Estate were
promoted into a condition of progressive improvement; the cottage of
the labourer, and the habitation of the tenantry, in many instances,
into dwellings of neatness and comfort to themselves, giving
animation, variety, and interest to the scenery which surrounded
them—that such excellent facilities were effected for bringing into
light and action, the hidden and long neglected treasures of the
slate rock on the banks of the Ogwen; which, through a happy union of
subsequent commercial interests, and the spirited manner in which
those interests are conducted, are now so richly swelled into a
stream of affluence to the proprietor, and of honest industry and
subsistence to many hundreds of the poor.—Such are a few, but far
from being all the testimonies, which this country now exhibits of
the judgment and abilities of the late Mr. Wyatt; nor ought we,
indeed, to have omitted in this short catalogue, as remarkable
monuments of his well-cultivated taste, the noble marine Baths at
Penrhyn, the fascinating and graceful Villa at Ogwen Bank, and the
characteristic order and embellishments of the Dairy farm at
Pen-isa-nant.”
The Slate Quarry is distant about six miles from Bangor, on the road to
Capel Curig, and is in every respect worthy of a visit from the Tourist;
it exhibits a most interesting and surprising display of art and
industry, from 7 to 800 men being in constant employment there, and the
vast excavation, which from near thirty years labour at it, is now made
into the heart of the mountain, presents to the view a variety of
picturesque and magnificent scenery, richly deserving the inspection of
the artist. Within half a mile of the Slate Quarry is Ogwen Bank, an
elegant and romantic little retreat—a perfect _bijou_, designed by the
late Lord Penrhyn, and still used by the family, as an occasional resort
for refreshment and recreation, on paying a morning visit to the Quarry,
or other objects of curiosity in the vicinity. Near to this is
Pen-issa-nant, formerly intended as a Dairy and Poultry Farm to Penrhyn
Castle, for which purposes, the most ample, elegant, and ingenious
arrangements were made, and the house designed and fitted up with
peculiar simplicity and prettiness, perfectly correspondent with the
nature of its object. These two places are accessible to all respectable
visitors; the road to them, from Bangor, abounds in grand and interesting
prospects.—Penrhyn Castle and Woods, at all times a rich and remarkable
feature in the Scenery—the Sea, bounded by the distant Promontory of
Ormes Head—the protruding bulkiness of Pen-maen-mawr—the bold and mighty
barrier of Mountains, forming the most picturesque lines with the
horizon, and extending nearly all round the distant Scene—these are the
chief ingredients of this distinguished and beautiful landscape. The
present proprietor of Penrhyn Castle is G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. to whom
the property was left. This gentleman seems to possess a spirit of
improvement no less active than his noble predecessor. The Park, which
till within these few years formed the domain to this stately residence,
has been very extensively enlarged by the present proprietor, who has
enclosed the same by a wall of considerable length, which is done in a
manner deserving the example of others, for its neat, strong, and
masterly work;—the coping of the wall is peculiarly handsome, and
characteristic of the county, being formed of the waste ends of the Slate
rock, fixed in a rough and uneven manner, giving the whole a bold and
substantial appearance.—Within the precincts of this Park, and protruding
a considerable distance into the sea, is a very handsome building,
containing a large private sea-water bath, with warm baths contiguous to
it. This edifice is understood to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn not
less than £4000. and perhaps not to be equalled for elegance and
commodiousness in the kingdom. Penrhyn Castle is itself a modern
building, (with the exception of one small circular Tower) and was
erected by Lord Penrhyn, from designs of the late Samuel Wyatt, Esq., a
brother of his Lordship’s Agent, before-mentioned. The principal rooms
are commodious and elegant, particularly the Drawing-room, which is a
very stately and handsome apartment, but the Architecture of the house
cannot be said fairly to bear any technical character; being neither of
the Grecian, Roman, Gothic, nor English domestic stile, but an insipid
and unmeaning attempt at all. Rumour however says, that the present
proprietor contemplates some very important improvements. The situation
is one which has every claim to a noble and distinguished edifice.
Lime Grove, the neat and appropriate residence of Mr. Wyatt, the Agent of
Mr. Pennant, (and son of the former Mr. Wyatt, before alluded to) is
situated in the lower part of Penrhyn Park, to the West; this house was
also planned by the late S. Wyatt, Esq. and in point of chasteness and
technical purity, is more creditable to his taste than the greater work
at Penrhyn Castle. The grounds, and what may be called the rural economy
of Lime Grove, have ever been deservedly admired.
Contiguous to this part of Penrhyn Park, and to the North West of it, is
Port Penrhyn.—This is a very noble and commodious arrangement, made for
the accommodation of the Merchant Vessels, employed for the conveyance of
the Slate from the afore-mentioned Quarry, to different parts of the
Kingdom, and for receiving and stowing the productions of that Quarry
until they are lodged on board the Vessels waiting to receive them. The
vastly increasing demand for these Slates, {38} necessarily requires a
proportionate scale of the means for supplying it, consequently the Quay,
at Port Penrhyn, has lately undergone very considerable enlargement, by
the present proprietor, G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. which alike does credit to
his liberal spirit in projecting it, as to the builder in its masterly
execution; it will accommodate 50 sail, in addition to the old Quay, and
will greatly facilitate the Trade there. The beautiful Bridge too, which
Mr. Pennant is now building over the Cegin, at Port Penrhyn, will
considerably improve the communication between that place and the Town of
Bangor, and be a great public accommodation in other respects, at the
same time it makes a handsome finish to the Pier, which we understand to
be upwards of 300 yards in length, and we have no hesitation in saying
that when the whole is completed, it will form one of the most complete
Shipping places in the Principality. The Slates are conveyed from the
Quarry, in Nant Ffrancon, to this Port, a distance of 8 miles, by means
of small waggons, linked together in succession, and running upon a
rail-road. The expedition and facility with which the Slates are thus
conveyed from the Quarry to the Ships is very remarkable.
Proceeding from Port Penrhyn to Bangor, the situation of the Inn, called
the Penrhyn Arms, at less than a quarter of a mile from the Port, on the
brow of the hill, is well worthy of observation. The view from the
Bowling-green, attached to this house, is very celebrated, and deservedly
so. The component parts of this fine picture need not be detailed to the
stranger, who visits and sees it—but in a word it may be said to be a
most majestic, impressive and interesting Scene.
From this rich and animating display of nature’s works, we must now (as
faithful pioneers through the County of Carnarvon) turn our eyes to the
works of Art in this neighbourhood; the first that presents itself is the
great Post Road, from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which has been lately much
altered, and in many places in this vicinity entirely diverted from the
old line. It has been found necessary, in order to render the ascent
near the Penrhyn Arms easier, to cut about 12 or 15 feet deep, and one or
two hundred in length, and to throw an Archway over, to preserve the
communication from the above Inn to the Terrace, a handsome mansion, and
in point of Scenery, beautifully situated, but which, from the
above-mentioned excavation, seems to the passing Traveller, to rest on an
insecure foundation. But before we proceed farther, and that we may
preserve uniformity, it will be necessary to present our readers with a
short History of
BANGOR.
So called from Bann and Cor, the great or lofty Choir, (and not from
Pen-chor, as Mr. Nicholas Owen supposes); it is an episcopal See, and a
small Market Town, situated in a narrow defile, near a small brook called
_Tor onnen_, (as Leland informs us) opening gradually to the Sea,
Eastward, which comes within less than a quarter of a mile of the Town.
St. Dubricius, (called by the Welsh Dufrig Ben eurog) who was Archbishop
of Caerlleon, upon Usk, in Monmouthshire, is said to have consecrated
Daniel ap Dunod, first Bishop of this See, about the year 550. This
Daniel or Deiniol, according to the Welsh Records, was Abbot of Bangor
Iscoed, in Flintshire, from whence he retired to this place, where he
founded a College, for the instruction of youth, and it is supposed to
have continued a Cell or Member of the other Bangor, until it was
converted into a Bishoprick by Prince Maelgun Gwynedd. The above St.
Dubritius is reported to have resigned in favour of St. David, and to
have retired to the Island of Bardsey, (Enlli) after having assisted at
the Synod of Brevi, (now called Llanddewi Brevi, in Cardiganshire) which
circumstance is commemorated in the following Welsh lines:
Pan oedd Saint Senedd Brevi,
(Drwy arch y Prophwydi)
Ar ôl gwiw Bregeth Dewi
Yn myned i Ynys Enlli.
“When the Saints of the Synod of Brevi, after the good sermon of St.
David, were going (by the direction of the Prophets) to the Island of
Bardsey.”
The extent of this Diocese, at that time, is uncertain; but the present
comprehends all Anglesey and Carnarvonshire, except the following
parishes, situated on the East of the river Conway, viz. Llysvaen, Eglwys
Rhôs, and Llangwstenin, which are in the Diocese of St. Asaph; in
Denbighshire it has fourteen Parishes; seven in Montgomeryshire, and the
greatest part of Merionethshire is also in this Diocese.
The Cathedral is a venerable Gothic building, spacious and convenient,
but, at present it may be considered, in some measure, in a dilapidated
state, as the Chapter have been waiting some time for the Lord
Chancellor’s decision as to the _quantum_ of Grant, which his Lordship
may consider necessary to allow, in order to put the Fabric in complete
repair. Its dimensions are as follows, the North and South Cross Aisles
are 30 feet 6 inches, North and South, and 25 East and West, so that the
whole length of the Cross Aisle, from North to South, is 86 feet the
inside. From the Arch which opens to the Choir, to the East end of the
Stalls, is 27 feet, from thence to the East end of the Bishop’s Throne 6
feet, and from thence to the Altar 21 feet, whole length of the Choir 54
feet, which added to the space of the cross Aisle 25 feet, the Nave 110
feet, Steeple 19 feet, makes the whole length from East to West, 208.
The breadth of the Choir, from wall to wall, is 26 feet 6 inches, the
breadth of the Stalls 4 feet, 6 inches, that of the Choristers seats
nearly 3 feet; the height of the Choir and Nave 34 feet, of the Aisle 24
feet; thickness of the Walls which support the Arches in the North and
South Aisles is 4 feet. The Chapter Room was repaired and partly rebuilt
in Bishop Moore’s time, and the Nave new roofed in that of Warren. There
are now belonging to this Cathedral, a Bishop, (H. W. Majendie, D.D.) a
Dean, (J. Warren, B.D.) three Archdeacons, two of which were annexed to
the Bishopric by Act of Parliament, A.D. 1685, a Treasurer, and two
Prebendaries, endowed; a Precentor, {43} Chancellor, and three Canons,
not endowed; two Vicars Choral, an Organist, four Lay Clerks, Choristers,
and other officers.—About the year 975, King Edgar coming into North
Wales, at Bangor confirmed the ancient privileges of the Church, and
bestowed Lands upon it, and caused a new Church to be founded on the
South side of the Cathedral, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, which
Church or Chapel was, by Dean Kyffin, converted into a Chantry of singing
Priests; this place is supposed to have been the same which afterwards
became the residence of the Vicar. Anion, (or Eineon) Archdeacon of
Anglesey, became Bishop about the year 1268, and is reported to have held
a Synod at St. Mary’s de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of
Bangor, now entirely down, since the year 1291, but which is supposed to
have been about 400 yards from the Cathedral. He also christened Edward
the Second, in Carnarvon Castle, April 25th, 1284, and for this and other
services, had several Manors or Regalities bestowed upon him and his
successors, as the Manor of Treffos, (said to have been afterwards the
residence of the Bishops of Bangor for some years) and some Cantreds in
the Island of Anglesey, the Ferries of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, over the
Menai, the Manors of Bangor, Castellmai and Garth Gogo, (now Gogarth).
In his time also the house in London was given. The offices secundum
usum Bangor, were recovered by Bishop Humphreys, from a private library,
and new bound, by the direction and at the expence of the late Dr. John
Jones; it was compiled by Bishop Anian, (Eineon) or at least given by
him. The Cathedral was destroyed in the year 1071, and was soon
afterwards re-built, for we find that in 1212, King John invaded the
country, forced the Bishop (Robert of Shrewsbury) from before the Altar,
and obliged him to pay two hundred Hawks for his ransom. In the year
1402, it was again reduced to ruin, by the rage of Owen Glyndwr, and
continued neglected for ninety years, when the Choir was restored by
Bishop Dean or Deny. The present body and tower were erected by that
liberal Prelate Bishop Skeffington, as appears by the following
inscription, at the West end, “_Thomas Skevington_, _Episcopus Bangoriæ_,
_hoc campanile et Ecclesiam fieri fecit Ann. partus_ 1532.” The height
of the Tower is about sixty feet, it was to have been raised considerably
higher, but the death of the Bishop prevented the execution of that
design. The windows were made or glazed according to the custom of the
times, by the piety of different persons, among whom may be reckoned Dean
Kyffin, and some of the Griffiths of Penrhyn. Bishop Lloyd gave the
Bells. On the South side of the Choir is a Mural Monument of Bishop
Morgan, who died September, 1673, aged 65, also another in memory of
Anne, daughter of Bishop Humphreys. The Busts of Bishops Vaughan and
Rowlands, which were decapitated, and otherwise disfigured in the
fanatical times of Oliver Cromwell, were removed in 1810. Bishop H.
Rowlands erected the Monument in memory of Bishop Vaughan, as a token of
his affection; he died Bishop of London, A.D. 1607. Bishop Edward
Griffith is supposed to have been buried near this spot. Bishop Rowlands
died July 1616, and is here buried, _ætatis_ 65; here also is buried
Bishop Lloyd ob. 15th Feb. 1688, _ætat._ 78. About the space of two
stones off lie Bishop Nich. Robinson and Bishop Robert Morgan, both in
one grave; the stone is or was partly covered by the rails; Morgan died
September, 1673, aged 65. Bishops Bailey and Meyrick were buried on the
South of the Communion Table. One stone with a plate upon it, is this
inscription: “_Gulielmus __Glynn natus in Insula Mona_, _&c._” he was
Bishop of Bangor in 1555. That wise and valiant Prince, Owen Gwynedd, is
supposed to have been buried beneath an Arch, with a flowery Cross cut on
a flat stone; he died regretted by his countrymen and feared by his foes,
in 1169. On the floor is a mutilated figure, in brass, designed for
Richard Kyffin, the active Dean of the Cathedral, in the Reigns of
Richard III. and Henry VII. He was a strenuous friend to the house of
Lancaster, and when he was Prebendary of Llanddwyn, and resident there as
Rector of the place, he concerted, in conjunction with Sir Rhys (or Rice)
ap Thomas, of Dinevor, and other Welsh Chieftains, a plan for the
bringing in the Duke of Richmond, then in Brittany, to whom they
transmitted, by means of fishing Vessels, all the necessary intelligence.
He died the 13th of August 1502. The place of his interment was till
within these few years (and probably may be so still) distinguished by
the name of _Bedd y Deon Du_, or the grave of the black Dean, who was so
called, in all probability, from his complexion. It appears, from the
Sebright MSS. that our wise and brave Prince Griffith ap Cynan, was
interred on the left side of the great Altar, in the year 1137, and that
an elegant shrine was erected over his grave, of which however not a
vestige now remains. In the Parish Church of Llandegai,
before-mentioned, is still to be seen a mural Monument, with a long Latin
inscription, to the memory of the celebrated John Williams, Archbishop of
York, in the time of Charles the First; he is represented in his
episcopal Dress, kneeling at an Altar. This great Prelate was born at
Conway; his father, _Edmund_, was sixth son of the neighbouring family of
_Cochwillan_, and a branch of that of Penrhyn; his life was written by
Bishop Hackett, and the late Rev. Sneyd Davies, after viewing the
Monument, wrote a beautiful little Poem, which is preserved in Dodsley’s
Collections. Here is also an Alabaster Monument of an armed Man and his
Lady, recumbent; they probably belonged to the neighbouring House, but on
the dissolution were removed from the Friery of Llanvaes in Anglesey,
where the persons represented had been interred.
The Bishop’s Palace is an irregular building situate on the side of the
Hill, about one hundred yards to the North of the Cathedral; it was
partly re-built by Bishop Warren, and several handsome and commodious
apartments added to it, and it has been in other respects greatly
improved by the present worthy Prelate, Dr. Majendie. The residence of
the Dean is nearly adjoining the Church-yard, at the N. W. end of the
Cathedral.
Nearly on the same spot where the Bangor Free Grammar School now stands,
a House of Friers Preachers was founded, according to Bishop Tanner,
about the year 1276, by Tudor ap Gronow, Lord of Penmynydd and
Trecastell, in Anglesey, who also enlarged or rebuilt it in 1299, and was
interred here in 1311. Leland’s words are “A Priory of White Freres, by
Bangor, dedicate to Jesu: there were once White Freres at Ruthin Dyffryn
Clwyd.” Edward VI. made a grant of this place to Thomas Brown and
William Bretton, and soon after it was converted into a Free School, by
Geffry Glynn, LL.D. an Advocate in Doctor’s Commons, and brother to
Bishop Glynn. By his Will, proved July 21, 1557, he left the management
of it to his brother, and to Maurice Griffith, Bishop of Rochester; but
the settlement not having been completed prior to their decease, they
delegated the same power to Sir William Petre and others, who agreed on
the Statutes for the Master and Usher, with the concurrence of the
Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, and of Alexander Nowel, Dean of St. Paul’s,
who is said to have composed them.—Mr. Pennant, in his Tour, informs us
that over the chimney piece, in the old School House, there was a
fragment of an ancient Monument, to one Gryffydd, with a long sword
carved on it, and on the staircase another stone, with the words ap
Tudor, probably part of the Tomb of the founder, Tudor ap Gronw ap Tudor.
A new School-room, together with a spacious and convenient dwelling-house
for the Master, adjoining, was erected here in the time of Bishop Warren,
and some new regulations made with regard to the management of the
School. Within the last few years a new house has also been built, a
little to the East of the former, for the residence of the Usher. This
Seminary is at present extremely well conducted, and deservedly held in
great repute: From having been for many years the third in eminence,
(Beaumaris and Ruthin being long considered as superior to it) this
establishment is now the most flourishing place of education in this
portion of the principality.
Bishop Rowlands, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in Lleyn, founded here an
Hospital, or rather an Alms-house, for six poor men, and also a Free
School, at Bottwnog in this County, about the year 1616. The Dispensary,
a most useful and benevolent Institution was established in this City,
October, 1809, being the 50th Anniversary of our late good King’s
Accession, and the year of Jubilee, under the patronage of that excellent
Nobleman, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese, the
worthy Dean, and many other Noblemen and Gentlemen. It is with
heart-felt satisfaction we are able to add, that its Funds continue on
the increase, and every attention is paid to the numerous patients, by
Dr. Mason, the Physician; Mr. Roberts, the Surgeon, and Mr. Pugh, the
House Apothecary.
The following tribute, to the memory of Mr. Edwards, the celebrated blind
Harper, who died at his sister’s, (Mrs. Jones, Pen yr Allt, Bangor) on
Friday, the 13th January, 1815, aged 65, may not be unacceptable to the
reader, the author is unknown:
Ah! quench’d is now that Minstrel’s fire,
And mute those strings, whose magic tone
Could once e’en Cambria’s Rocks inspire,
And move to life her mountain stone.
Cold is the hand, that once could sweep
The native Harp, with Bardic sway;
Could lull each passion rude to sleep,
And drive the steps of care away.
Ah come ye kindred Minstrels here,
To kiss the Harp your master sway’d,
And o’er it drop the mournful tear,
And let it in his grave be laid.
For now like him ’tis mute and dead,
Its accents all are hush’d and still;
The power is gone—the spirit fled,
And every nerve in death is chill.
But shall that spirit rise no more,
And shall its powers no more revive,
And, on this “Muse deserted shore,”
Shall no such Bard hereafter live?
Oh! Cambria, scorn the hateful dream,
And raise thy drooping downcast head;
Nor longer drop the pearly stream,
Not longer mourn thy Minstrel dead.
For yet some Heaven-taught child of thine,
In ages yet unborn may rise;
Some sapling of this Minstrel’s line,
And lift thy glory to the skies.
A new Market House, Town Hall, &c. have lately been built here, which is
at once an improvement to the Town, and a convenience to farmers and
others of the neighbourhood; a good Inn, on a commodious plan, adjoins it
called the Waterloo Tavern. Several mean unsightly dwellings, at the
East end of the Church-yard, have been taken down, and a new House
erected for the residence of one of the Vicars. In short, from the
speculative spirit of the inhabitants, and the increasing demand for
Slates at Port Penrhyn, which, as well as the Quay at Hirael, is
generally crowded not only with small craft, but with Ships of
considerable burthen, Bangor seems advancing rapidly into consequence; it
is also of late years become a place of fashionable resort, particularly
in the Summer season. The population, according to the last _Census_, in
1811, was 2393, and it may now be stated at nearly 3000. The principal
Inns, are the Castle, near the Cathedral, Crown and Anchor, and Waterloo
Tavern in the Centre; the Penrhyn Arms at the East, and the Vaynol Arms
at the West end of the Town.
Hugh Lupus, in his barbarous inroads into Anglesey, founded a Castle at
Bangor, in order to carry on his ravages with greater security; it was
situated nearly a quarter of a mile Eastward of the Town, on the ridge of
hills which bound the S.E. side of the Vale, and nearly the same distance
from the Port. It was on a rocky, and in many parts a precipitous hill.
Three sides of the Walls are easily to be traced: on the S.E. side, they
extended a hundred and twenty yards; on the S.W. sixty-six, ending at a
precipice; the N.E. may be traced forty yards, and ends in the same
manner. On the fourth side, the natural strength of the place rendered a
farther defence useless; Mounds of Earth, tending to a semicircular form,
with rocks and precipices, connect the N.E. and S.W. walls. The precise
time of its demolition is not known, but probably as soon as the Earl had
effected his design it was suffered to fall to ruin.
In this Parish, about a mile and a half to the South of the Town, was
discovered about the year 1806, at a place called Ty Coch, belonging to
Captain Taylor, a Stone, with the following inscription;
NVMNC
IMP CAESAR M
AVRELANTONINVS
PIVS TI IX AVG ARAB
IX
It is probable, that after the traveller has examined the City of Bangor
and its environs, he may be tempted to cross over to the Island of
Anglesey; and if he be a pedestrian, he would find the passage over
_Garth_, (formerly called Cadnant) Ferry the shortest and pleasantest way
to Beaumaris; but if the party have a horse or carriage, the road to
Porth Aethwy, (otherwise called Bangor Ferry) where the new Iron Bridge
is now erecting, must be pursued. And here it may be proper, before we
proceed any further, to inform the stranger that there are six ferries
across the Menai, which I shall mention here in regular order, beginning
with Beaumaris, over the Lavan Sands, to Aber; 2. Garth, near Bangor,
which is confined solely to foot passengers; 3. Porth Aethwy, {53}
before-mentioned, the best, safest, and most convenient; 4. Moel y Donn,
a very safe good ferry, and sober careful boatmen; 5. Tal y Foel,
opposite Carnarvon; 6. Abermenai, at the extreme Westerly end of the
Straits, about three miles below Carnarvon.—The best rout for any person
who may be inclined to make a tour of the Island, would be to proceed
from Bangor Ferry to Beaumaris, along the delightful new terrace road,
made at the sole expence of that munificent Nobleman, who is an honour to
his Country, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, which may justly be pronounced one
of the most grand and picturesque rides in the kingdom, commanding a full
view of Beaumaris bay, with its winding Shores, projecting Capes and
Promontories, together with the vast and magnificent chain of
Carnarvonshire Hills and Mountains, towering in succession, in majestic
eminence and grandeur, and in variety of shapes, until their summits are
lost in the clouds. After visiting the Castle and other Antiquities in
and about this beautiful Town, the traveller is recommended to proceed
from Beaumaris to Red Wharf, and along the Sea-coast to Amlwch, famous
for its extensive and lucrative Copper Mines, and which are well worthy
the stranger’s attention, and from thence to the town of Holyhead, where
Government has erected, at an immense expence, one of the finest Piers in
Great Britain; at the extremity is a very handsome Light-House, which,
together with the Lamps along the Pier, being lighted up with Gas,
renders the Scene, at night, brilliant and imposing. He may then return
into Carnarvonshire either along the Post Road to Llangefni, and thence
to Moel y Donn ferry, or if he be curious enough to explore the whole of
the Island, along the Western Coast to Aberfraw and Newborough, and
re-cross either at Abermenai, Tal y Foel, or Moel y Donn.
As the Tourist may probably be desirous to know the names of the
gentlemen’s seats, which appear so conspicuous on the Anglesey shore,
from this side the water, and which seem to claim his attention, as he
proceeds along, I shall here for his satisfaction describe them as they
occur, beginning with the most Easterly, viz. Friers, the seat of Sir
Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P. for the County of Carnarvon; which is
situated a mile beyond Beaumaris, near the Sea coast, not far from the
site of a Religious House of the Franciscan order,—next is Baron Hill,
the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, embosomed in woods, and commanding a
most extensive and enchanting view, having the Town, Castle, and Bay of
Beaumaris in front,—near it is Red Hill, the residence of Colonel
Sparrow,—next in order is Lady Bulkeley’s neat Cottage, on the Beaumaris
new road, and just below it Craig y Donn, the delightful Summer
habitation of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow, who is fond of
sailing, and has an elegant Cutter at anchor near his house,—next is
Cadnant, the seat of J. Price, Esq. in a small recess on the side of a
narrow dingle;—these are the principal seats to the East of the great
Irish road. But, before we proceed any further, the stranger cannot
avoid noticing the singular situation of a small Church, on a barren
rock, forming a little Peninsula, about a quarter of a mile to the West
of Bangor-Ferry, called Llandissilio. {55} We then proceed to another
small Church, called Llanfair (or St. Mary’s) Pwll Gwyn Gell,—and near
it, the Vicarage House; and just below that Llanfair Hall, the seat of
Colonel Peacock. And here I must not omit noticing a very elegant
Column, situated on a high rock, behind Llanfair Church, erected by
subscription of £1 each person, (and which was soon filled, so eager were
the gentlemen of the neighbourhood to contribute), and intended to
commemorate the brave, skilful, and intrepid conduct of that gallant
Nobleman, the Marquess of Anglesey, at the Battle of Waterloo. Not far
from hence is that rocky or obstructed part of the Straits or Channel of
the Menai, called by the Welsh Pwll Ceris, {56} and by the English the
Swelly; the fury of the tide, during ebb and flow, is almost
inconceivable, except by the navigator: here are great over-falls and
violent whirl-pools, but at high water all is still. This is a great
obstacle to the navigation of large vessels, which must consult the
critical season, and provide a good Pilot; and as the Merchants of
Carnarvon, and others, were very apprehensive that the erection of a
Bridge at Bangor Ferry, would materially injure the Trade, Government has
proposed to defray the expence of blasting the Rocks, and to render every
other practicable facility to the improvement of the navigation in this
part of the Channel.
After this short digression, we now proceed to Plas Newydd, the
magnificent Seat of the Marquess of Anglesey, situated on a beautiful
curve of the Menai, and protected on three sides by venerable Oak Trees,
which reminds us of the Groves, in which the Druids are represented by
Tacitus to have concealed themselves from the Roman Army, and also
recalls to our remembrance the ancient name of Anglesey, _Ynys Dywyll_,
the Dark Island, on account of the deep shade of its groves:
— These woods
Were tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence,
Rob’d in their flowing vests of innocent white,
Issu’d with Harps, that glitter to the moon,
Hymning immortal strains.
MASON’S CARACTACUS.
It lies within 80 or 100 yards of the Menai, with a fine lawn in front,
sloping to the edge of the water; it commands a fine view both towards
Carnarvon and Bangor, which is rendered doubly interesting when the tide
is in, and the river covered with Ships of various sizes, together with
his Lordship’s Cutter, and those of T. A. Smith, Esq. of Vaynol, and Owen
Williams, Esq. of Craig y Don, sailing up and down, and contending with
each other, thus rendering the scene more animating. On the contrary, in
boisterous weather, here you behold from your fire side, (if you please,)
the mariner exerting his strength to guide his ship, and contending with
the storm; sweet retreat! delightful abode!
Suave mari magno, turbantibus æquora ventis,
E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.
“Pleasing from danger free, to hear on shore,
The tempests whistle and the billows roar.”
Behind the House are to be seen two vast _Cromlechs_, the upper stone of
one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve broad, and four thick,
supported by five tell ones; the other is but barely separated from the
first, is almost a square of five feet and a half, and supported by four
stones. The number of supporters to _Cromlechs_ are supposed to be
merely accidental, and to depend on the size and form of the incumbent
stone. Dr. Borlase, in his History of _Cornwall_, has shewn the
improbability of these stones ever being designed or used as Altars; the
figure proves the impossibility of making fires, or performing sacrifices
on their sloping summits, and almost all which I have seen (observes Mr.
Pennant) have an inclination. It is reasonable to suppose them to have
been sepulchral monuments, (probably of their Arch Druids) and that the
body might be lodged in the space beneath, and near the monument divine
honours might be paid, or sacrifices performed to the manes of the
dead.—This species of monument is to be found in most parts of Europe, in
Scandinavia, in Holland and in France; in the last, the _Pierre Levee_,
near Poitiers, is a stupendous specimen; they extend even farther South,
for Mr. Armstrong gives a drawing of one of this nature in Minorca. They
vary in form, in many the space between the supporters is closed up with
stones of greater or lesser size, and thus formed a sufficient security
to the remains of the deceased therein deposited. Probably all or most
of those which we see in our Island, might originally have been thus
closed up, and the stones since taken away, and applied to other uses;
others are again quite bedded in the _Carnedd_, as is the case with that
at Llanfaelog, in this Island. Not far from the _Cromlech_ is a large
_Carnedd_, part of which has been removed; within was discovered a Cell,
about seven feet long and three wide, covered at the top with two flat
stones, and lined on the sides with others. On the top of the stones
were two semicircular holes, of size sufficient to take in the human
neck; it is conjectured that above might have been another, so that both
together might perform the office of a stocks.—It is indeed conjecture,
yet not an improbable one, that in this place were confined, the wretches
destined for sacrifice, as it is well known that they performed those
execrable rites, and often upon captives who had suffered long
imprisonment, perhaps in Cells similar to this, and the common Welsh
proverb “_Bwrw caeth i Gythraul_,” to offer a captive to the Devil, seems
to confirm this opinion. After the tourist has examined the interior of
Plasnewydd, which he may easily do if he be so disposed, he is
recommended to pay a visit to Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful Cottage, the
_Lodge_, about a quarter of a mile to the East of this Princely mansion,
where his curiosity will no doubt be amply gratified, as that gentleman
has displayed peculiar taste and judgment in the embellishment and
decoration of that singularly elegant and much admired residence. Half a
mile to the West, and within the Park, are the Farm and Parish Church,
_Llan Edwen_, and very near these, in the same direction, is Plas Coch, a
venerable old Mansion, built in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and lately
repaired and improved by the present Proprietor, Sir W. Bulkeley Hughes,
Knight. Next is Porthamel, {60} late the seat of Mrs. Goodman, now of W.
Massey, Esq.; beyond which are Llanidan Church and Hall, the latter the
admired residence of the Hon. Mr. Ireby, eldest son of Lord Boston, and
nearly opposite Carnarvon, Tref-Arthen, Mr. Bogue’s, and Maes y Porth, W.
P. Lloyd, Esq.
We shall now return to Bangor, and conduct the stranger by Bangor Ferry,
(which, although about a mile further is by far the most interesting
road) to Carnarvon, and as he proceeds he will find the views constantly
changing, and he will frequently be at a loss which most to admire,—the
Sea, the Mountains, or the landscape, up and down the Menai. Gorphwysfa,
{61a} a modern handsome Villa, between the Inn and the intended new
Bridge, built by Lord Lucan, and now the property and residence of O. A.
Poole, Esq. is the first place likely to attract his attention; this
charming spot is much admired—the grounds are laid out with great taste
and judgment. But before we proceed, the reader is to be informed that
£24,000. have been awarded by a jury, and allowed by Government, as an
indemnification to the Proprietor for the loss of the profits of the
Ferry, in consequence of the erection of the Bridge. On his right, after
he has passed the ferry, and as he ascends the Hill, is Treborth, the
seat of G. Barlow, Esq. and about a mile further, on the same side of the
road, surrounded by fine woods, and thriving plantations, is Vaynol,
{61b} the occasional residence, at particular times of the year, of T. A.
Smith, Esq. during a month or two in summer, to enjoy the pleasure of
sailing in his Cutter, and a few weeks in winter, for the amusement of
sporting. His usual abode is at Tedworth, near Andover Hants. This
gentleman is Proprietor of several excellent Slate Quarries, some of
which are considered the most productive of any in this part of the
Principality, next to those of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; but the proper
time for visiting these will be during an excursion from Carnarvon to
Llanberris. Vaenol was at one period the residence of a branch of the
Penrhyn Family, who were descended from Ednyfed Fychan. They obtained a
Baronetage June 15, 1622. Sir William Williams, the last of the line,
disposed of his property to Sir Boucher Wrey, with the remainder to King
William in fee, who made a grant of it to an ancestor of the present
proprietor. A curious Seal was discovered near this place, about two or
three years ago, supposed to be that of some Convent or Monastery, with
the image of the Virgin and child, and bearing the following inscription:
S. BEATÆ MARIÆ DE SI. . . . NE BEC . . .
The next place which deserves to be noticed, in our progress towards
Carnarvon, is Bryn Tirion; the habitation of Thomas Jones, Esq.; this
house, which is nearly opposite Plas Newydd, stands on a beautiful
eminence, and commands an extensive view of the Straits, as far as
Abermenai.—In this neighbourhood, as well as on the opposite shore, are
considerable Lime-stone rocks; and indications of Iron Ore have also been
observed here, and, we understand, in one instance, a late trial has been
attended with success. It is the general opinion, when these two are
found in considerable quantities, that Coal is not far distant, and some
attempts have been made, at different times, to discover the vein, but
hitherto without effecting that object. Near this place is Aber y pwll,
a Harbour belonging to Mr. Smith, where his Slate are shipped off, and to
which a good new road has, within these few years, been made from his
Quarry. Half a mile farther is Moel y Don, a safe and commodious horse
Ferry, where no accident has happened in the memory of any person now
living. In the life of Gryffydd, ap Cynan, (one of our Welsh Princes) it
is said that a Castle was built here, by Aeloedd, King of Dublin, his
grandfather by the mother’s side, and there are still some remains of a
fortification, on a small eminence, close upon the Menai, about three
hundred yards below the Ferry. This place was also rendered memorable on
account of a Bridge of Boats, erected here by King Edward the First, A.D.
1282, {63} in repassing which, a detachment of his Army, together with a
number of _Gascon_ and Spanish troops, commanded by LUKE DE TANY, were
intercepted by the Welsh, who rush’d on them with hideous shouts, slew
numbers, and forced the remainder into the sea. On this occasion
perished the General himself, together with Roger Clifford the younger,
thirteen Knights, seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred soldiers.
William Latimer alone escaped by the goodness of his horse, which swam
with him to the Bridge. Even if we suppose that a panic had seized the
English forces at this time, yet a considerable degree of praise is still
due to the intrepidity of my countrymen, as, when compared with the
troops of other countries, they fought nearly unarmed; in order to be
convinced of which, a person need only read a description of their
weapons and accoutrements, when they accompanied our valiant Prince
Richard Cœur de Lion into France, as given by William Brito, in Camden’s
Remains.
When we have proceeded half a mile, we enter the beautiful woods of
Llanfair, the delightful seat of John Griffith, Esq. a gentleman, who
according the example of his ancestors, and the custom of “those good old
times,” resides constantly in the country, and gives employment to a
number of poor persons, who would otherwise, in all probability, be
chargeable to some Parish; he does not dismiss from his service the
super-anuated domestic—relieves the _wants_ of the indigent, and promotes
the comfort of the Cottager, by numerous acts of charity, and is an
indulgent and generous Landlord. The neatness of the fences, the
thriving state of the plantations, the rich appearance of the land, and
the judicious management of the Home-stall, together with the improved
method of farming, must attract the attention of every passenger. Nearer
Carnarvon, on the banks of the Menai, is the small but neat Parish Church
of Llanfair Isgaer, partly re-built at the above gentleman’s expence, and
from which his mansion takes its name. Not far from hence is Crûg, a
house once the property of Sir W. Williams Wynne, but which was purchased
by J. Griffith, Esq. of Llanfair; it deserves notice as being the place
where Meredith ap Jevan ap Robert of Cesail Gyfarch, ancestor of Sir John
Wynne, of _Gwydir_, was nursed, and from whence he removed to the Castle
of Dolydd Helen.—This Meredith (as Sir John Wynne informs us, in the
History of the Gwydir Family) married a daughter-in-law of one _Spicer_,
of Carnarvon, who had an office in the Exchequer in that Town, and was a
person of £50. per annum, and his son, John Spicer, was a Justice of the
Peace, in the first Commissions after the new Ordinance of Wales, as we
learn from the same authority. Within a mile of Carnarvon, and near the
road, is a handsome modern-built house, _Ty Coch_, the residence of the
Rev. H. Jones.—Near this place once stood an old Mansion, called Plas
Bretwn, belonging to the Breretons, a family who probably came to this
country with Edward the First, or soon after; and nearly in this
direction, a new Ferry was established within these few years, and we
lament to state that on the 5th of August, 1820, owing to the very
culpable negligence of the Ferrymen, in over-loading the boat, and
carrying too much sail, (it being a very windy day) it was upset, and out
of 26 persons, one man only was saved.—A similar accident happened about
37 years ago at Tal y Foel, (the Ferry opposite Carnarvon) with this
difference, that in the former instance the boat sunk in the day time,
and the passengers instantly went down, to rise no more, and in the
latter, it struck on a Sand Bank, in the middle of the Channel, during
the ebb of the tide, where these unfortunate people remained for many
hours, calling for that assistance, which, owing to the darkness of the
night; and the violence of the storm, it was impossible to afford them.
{66} Proceeding along the road, the traveller cannot but admire the
singularly beautiful entrance to
CARNARVON,
which is rendered more striking by the summits of the Castle Towers,
Coedhelen Summer-house, as well as the extensive Bay and foaming Bar,
being distinctly seen in the rear of the Town.—Caernarvon is situated at
the month of the Seiont, on a small Peninsula, formed by that river and
the brook Cadnant, on the verge of the Straits of the Menai, which
separate this County from the Island of Anglesey; this Town is justly the
boast of North Wales, for beauty of situation—goodness of
buildings—regularity of plan, and above all for the grandeur and
magnificence of its Castle. Here an admirer of nature may forget his
cares, in contemplating the greatness of her works, or rather the
stupendous operations of His hand, whose Almighty _fiat_, and creative
energy, formed this terrestrial Globe, and called into existence the
“_everlasting mountains_.” This place, from its proximity to these
wonderful and impregnable barriers, and its central and salubrious
situation, will be found to be a most eligible station, from which the
stranger may make various and pleasant excursions, some of which will be
pointed out at the end of this article. The town is a square, inclosed
with embattled stone walls on three sides; the Castle defending it on the
South. In the West wall are two round Towers, and two others protecting
the Gate at that point, called by the Welsh _Porth-yr-aur_, where there
it a battery of 7 guns; three on the North, one on the N.E.; two
supporting the Eastern entrance, or _Porth-mawr_, and two to the S.E.
making in the whole twelve Towers.
The town is well built, the streets being at right angles, with the
principal one, (the High Street). Near the Cross formerly stood the old
Town Hall, which continued many years in ruins, but it has lately been
re-built in a more specious and handsome manner, and is converted into a
commodious Market House, containing Butchers’ Shambles, Fish Stand, and
Corn Market; over these is a large room, which is made use of for the
boys of the National School, until the building now erecting shall be
completed; another containing at present a _Depot_ of Arms, and a smaller
one, where the gentlemen of the Savings Bank Committee, together with
their Clerk and Treasurer, sit from twelve till two o’clock every
Saturday, to receive the weekly deposits; this is a most excellent
institution, and ought to be universally known and encouraged.
The Castle is founded on a rock, and is almost entire; the enter walls
are of dark grey hewn stone, (a species of lime stone) with an edging of
red ones at the corners and about the windows, as also in several
_fascias_, which gives it a handsome appearance. Edward I. built this
Castle in a singular and elegant style, (and probably the Town likewise,
on the site, and out of the ruins of one more ancient, and bearing the
same name {69}) with the revenue of the See of York, then vacant; a deep
narrow foss or ditch, which has been filled up some years, once defended
it on the North side, or in front, over which there was a drawbridge,
leading to the King’s or principal Gate, which had four Portcullises, and
was a grand and elegant entrance; above it stood the figure of the Royal
Founder, in the act either of drawing or sheathing his sword, probably
the latter, in allusion to the Welsh war being ended,—under his feet is a
defaced shield: this Gate leads into an oblong Court, originally divided
into two parts, the lower, or that end containing the Regal apartments,
seem to have been again protected by another Wall and Gateway, now
demolished. At the West end of this area is a Polygon Tower, with three
hexagon Turrets issuing from its top, on whose battlements were eagles,
one of which only now remains, (which is shamefully mutilated and
disfigured) whence it was called the Eagle Tower;—we have the authority
of Mr. Pennant for saying that the Eagle upon the top of this Tower is
with good reason supposed to be Roman, and that Edward found it at old
Segontium.—In a small room, within this Tower, eleven feet by seven,
Edward the Second is supposed to have been born, April 25th, 1284; a
passage separates it from a similar apartment, called the _nursery_.—The
correctness of this statement is however doubted by many, for if we may
be allowed to judge, from the small dimensions, and present gloomy and
uninviting appearance of this apartment, it does not seem probable, that
the Queen of England would select it for the place of her _accouchement_,
when other parts of the Castle afforded much superior accommodations; on
the other hand it may be objected, that she might have fixed upon it as
the place of greatest security and seclusion,—this however is certain,
that tradition, which is often correct, is in favor of the small room.
From the top of the Eagle Tower, which most strangers ascend, the
traveller will be able to command a grand, varied and extensive view,
comprehending a great part of the Island of Anglesey, the Straits of the
Menai, Carnarvon Bay, St. George’s Channel, with the whole range of
Carnarvonshire Hills, from the Peaks of the Rivals, on the S.W. to the
huge Pen-maen-mawr, on the N.E. being about 36 miles in extent. On the
South side, next the River Seiont, are three Hexagon and three Octagon
Towers, and others on the North. On the East is a magnificent entrance,
called the Queen’s Gate, and through which she is supposed to have
entered, with a lofty round Arch and small Postern; leading to which
also, there was, no doubt, originally a draw-bridge, over the Moat, which
formed the communication between the Seiont and the brook Cadnant, or
present mill stream. These Towers communicate all round, by noble
galleries, and several of them are surrounded by smaller Towers, peculiar
to this and Conway Castle, which seem to have been the Architect’s two
_Chef d’œuvre_. In the North East Tower is a deep well, half filled up,
and this, or some other is said to have contained a dungeon, where it is
pretended a man being once let down to bring up a dog, found a hammer,
and that he saw a wooden door which he was afraid to open; the common
people have a tradition, that there was a subterraneous passage either
from this place or some other part of the Castle, to Coed Helen wood, on
the other side of the river. Some statements assert that this immense
Fortress was completed in one year; others, with more probability, assure
us that it was twelve years in building. Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton,
was appointed master mason, and perhaps was the Architect, and under him
must have been numbers of other skilful workmen. The Welsh peasants were
employed, no doubt, in waiting upon them, and supplying them with
materials, great part of which was brought from the ruins of Segontium,
and tradition says that much of the limestone, with which it is built,
was conveyed from Twr Kelyn, near Plas Newydd, in Anglesey, and of the
grit stone from Vaenol.—The Menai greatly facilitated the carriage from
both places. The exterior walls are in general about three yards in
thickness; and from its situation and strength, it seems to have been
well adapted to overawe the newly acquired subjects of its founder.
This noble and venerable pile, from whatever point it is contemplated, or
at whatever distance it is viewed, forms a most interesting object,
particularly when it is considered that it was once the residence of
Royalty, and gave birth to the first Prince of Wales, of the English
line,—what wonder and astonishment must it not have excited in the minds
of the poor peasants, dwelling at the foot of Snowdon, and unused to see
any other habitations than their own humble dwellings, when beholding
this vast and magnificent Castle, advancing by slow degrees, to its
present height and magnitude. When it is considered that it has
withstood the shocks of more than five hundred winters, it seems
wonderful that it should still appear so perfect and entire; for what is
there that does not at last fade and decay, and yield by degrees to the
war of elements, and the siege of time:
— The Tower, that long hath stood
The crash of Thunder, and the warring Winds,
Shook by the slow but sure destroyer—Time
Now hangs in doubtful ruins o’er its base;
And flinty pyramids, and walls of brass
Descend; the Babylonian Spires are sunk;
Achaia, Rome, and Egypt moulder down.
This huge rotundity, we tread grows old;
And all those Worlds that roll about the Sun,
The Sun himself shall die and ancient night,
Again involve the desolate Abyss.
After this Monarch had subdued the Welsh, he began to secure his
conquests, by erecting several strong holds, in different parts of Wales,
and it appearing that Carnarvonshire, on account of its Mountains and
Morasses, was a County very likely to encourage insurrections, he
determined to guard as much as possible against such an event, by
erecting this and Conway Castle, two of the completest and strongest
Fortresses in the Principality, and perhaps not inferior to any in the
Kingdom.
The reason generally assigned for the King’s conduct, in bringing his
beloved Queen, Eleanor, to such a distance, and at such an inclement
season of the year, (for it was in the winter) to lie in, is the
following: viz. that perceiving the Welsh remembered but too keenly the
oppressions of the English Officers, who in former reigns had been placed
over them, they peremptorily informed the King, that they were determined
not to yield obedience to any Prince, except one of their own nation; he
found it necessary to make use of an innocent artifice, and a pardonable
piece of policy: he therefore concealed his intentions for a time, and
secretly dispatched trusty messengers to the English Court, in order to
conduct the Queen into Wales; and it is related, that soon after the
birth of the young Prince, he summoned together the Welsh Nobles, and
persons of the greatest rank and influence in the Principality, and asked
them whether they would submit to be governed by a young man born in
Wales, and one who could not speak of word of English, and that when they
answered him in the affirmative, he presented to them his own son, saying
to them at the same time (as well as he could pronounce the words) _Eich
Dyn_, {74} _i.e._ this is your man—corrupted afterwards into ICH DIEN.
It ought however to have been previously mentioned, that the King was at
Rhuddlan Castle, during the Queen’s confinement, and we are informed by
Leland, that when Griffith Lloyd, of Tregarnedd in Anglesey, brought him
the joyful intelligence of the birth of a son, he was immediately
Knighted, and rewarded with one of the Manors of the Welsh Princes,
called Llys yn Dinorweg, in the Parish of Llanddeiniolen, now the
property of T. A. Smith, of Vaenol, Esq.—The first Governor of this
Castle, appointed by Edward, was John de Havering, with a salary of 200
Marks; with which he was obliged to maintain constantly, besides his own
family, fourscore men, of which fifteen were to be cross-bowmen, one
Chaplain, one Surgeon, and one Smith; the rest were to do the duty of
keepers of the Gates, Centinels, and other necessary Officers. In 1289,
Adam de Wetenhall was appointed to the same important office. The
establishment for Town and Castle was as follows: The Constable of the
Castle had sometimes £60. at others only £40. The Captain of the Town
had £12. 3s. 4d. for his annual fee; but this office was sometimes
annexed to the former, and then Sixty was the Salary for both. The
Constable and the Captain had Twenty-four Soldiers allowed them for the
defence of the place, at the wages of fourpence per day each. This was
considered as the amount of the establishment during peace. The Porter
of the Gates of the Town had for his annual fee, £3. 10s. The following
are the only instances known, of this place having suffered by the
calamities of war, viz. in the great insurrection of the Welsh, under
Madoc, in 1294, when they surprised the Town, during the time of a Fair,
and put many English to the sword, got possession of this as well as
Conway Castle, and made themselves masters of all Anglesey. During the
rebellion of Owen Glyndwr, about the year 1404, Ieuan (Evan) ap Meredith,
of Eifionydd, and Meredith ap Hwlkyn Llwyd, of Glynn Llifon, had the
charge of the Town of Carnarvon, (as Sir John Wynne informs us), and an
English Captain defended the Castle; when the said Owen Glyndwr and his
party, in revenge at not being able to gain possession, burned Ievan ap
Meredith’s two houses, Cefn y Fann, and Kesail gyfarch. Captain Swanly,
a Parliamentarian Officer, took the Town, in 1644, made 400 prisoners,
and got a great quantity of arms, ammunition, and pillage. The Royalists
afterwards repossessed themselves of the place,—Lord Byron was appointed
Governor,—was besieged by General Mytton, in 1646, and yielded the place
on the most honorable terms. In 1648, the General himself, and Colonel
Mason, were besieged in it, by Sir J. Owen, who, hearing that Colonel
Carter and Colonel Twisselton were on the march to relieve the place,
drew a part of his forces from the siege, in order to attack them on the
way; the parties met at Dalar Hir, near Llandegai, Sir John was defeated,
and made prisoner; after which, all North Wales submitted to the
Parliament.
After this concise History of the Castle, we shall now endeavour to give
a short description of the Town, within the walls, and then proceed to
the suburbs; the former consists principally of seven streets, viz. The
High Street, 2. King Street, or Castle Street, 3. Market Street, 4. Red
Lion, or Plas-mawr Street, 5. Black Boy Street, 6. Newgate Street, and 7.
Church Street; to which may be added, 8. _Pen y Deits_, or the head, or
end of the Ditch or Moat; 9. Hole in the Wall Street, and, 10. Pepper
Alley.
The High Street, which is the handsomest, consists principally of Shops
and Lodging-houses, and has in its centre, (or rather at the entrance
into Market Street) the old Town Hall, and, present Market House, already
noticed; and at the upper or East end, over the Gateway called Porth
mawr, is the present Guild-Hall, formerly an Exchequer Office, it was
re-built in the year 1767, at the joint expence of Sir William Wynn, and
Sir John Wynn, Baronet, as appears by an inscription in front of it; in
the interior are handsome Portraits of each, as also of the late Earl of
Uxbridge, father of the present Marquis of Anglesey. Here the Member for
the Borough is elected; their present Representative is the Hon. Captain
Paget. This place is also used as an Assembly Room, where the Michaelmas
and other Balls, such as those given by the High Sheriff, during the
Assizes, and by Members at elections, are held; and in order to light it
up in a handsome manner, the late Lord Uxbridge presented the Corporation
with a beautiful glass lustre.
The Corporation consists of a Mayor, who is as such Constable of the
Castle; (the appointment is by the King, and continues during
pleasure;—the Office is at present held by the Marquis of Anglesey),
Deputy-Mayor, appointed by the Mayor; Two Bailiffs and a Recorder,
elected annually by the Burgesses; Two Town-Stewards, Two Serjeants at
Mace, One Beadle, Four Sidesmen, and Four Constables, elected annually by
the Mayor and Bailiffs. These go in procession to St. Mary’s Chanel,
29th September, being Michaelmas-day, and after service return to the
Guild-Hall, to elect new Officers for the ensuing year, and admit new
Burgesses. There are Borough Courts held here every fortnight, to
transact business, and to hear and redress grievances; at the second
Court after Michaelmas-day, twelve of the Town Burgesses are sworn as a
Jury, whose business it is to perambulate the liberties of the Town, to
present nuisances and encroachments, as well as to see what repairs are
wanted, and to make a Report of the same. At one of these, the present
entrance to the Castle was presented for consideration, whether it would
not be adviseable to place it in repair, but from the opinion of an
eminent Barrister; who has been consulted on the occasion, it appears
that the Corporation have no authority so to do, the property being
vested in the King, as are also the Town Walls.
High Street is terminated on the West by Porth yr aur, on the outside of
which is a very pleasant terrace walk, on the shore of the Menai, of
which it commends a full view; this and the Bangor road are considered
the two fashionable promenades, of the inhabitants. Edmund Griffith, of
Penrhyn, lived at Porth-yr-aur. Sir Rowland Brittayne, Constable of
Carnarvon Castle, married Agnes, sister to the above Edmund Griffith;
Rowland Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref Arthen, was son of Sir William
Griffith.—This last attended Henry VIII. to France, as Lewis Môn, the
Welsh Bard, informs us in one of his Poems. So late as Fifty or Sixty
years ago, and for a long time prior to that period, several of the
principal families of this and the neighbouring County, had a Town House
at Carnarvon, where they generally used to spend the winter, and others
resided here constantly; most of these were persons possessed of good
incomes, and many of them kept their own carriages, had always a goad
table, and lived in the good old hospitable style of their ancestors, so
that when a gentleman happened to come into the town, if he had any
acquaintance with some of these families, he generally went to his
friend’s house, and not to an Inn. Carnarvon was not at that time become
such a commercial place as it is at present. These houses, and indeed
every gentleman’s residence, was then, and is still distinguished by the
name of _Plas_. The above short introduction was thought necessary in
order to notice some of these old Mansions, which have either been taken
down, deserted, or converted to other uses: Plas Issa, at one time the
property of the Coed Helen Family, and Porth yr aur, belonging to the
late Evan Lloyd, of Maes y Porth, Esq. were two old houses of this
description, at the lower end of this street, the one taken down, and the
other in ruins; Plas Bowman, between Church Street and Market Street, was
another, and in King’s Head Street, there is one still left, _Plas
Llanwnda_, where the proprietor, R. Garnons, Esq. resided for several
months in the winter; and with true gentlemanly politeness supports the
ancient credit of the House, for munificence and hospitality, and kind
attention to the wants of the poor. Quirt is another house in this
street, at one time belonging to the Williams’s of Quirt, in Anglesey,
and of Glan yr afon, in this County, which was made use of several years
as an Inn. In this Street also, at the back part of a public house,
called Glan yr afon, is an old building; supposed to have been at one
time either a Chapel belonging to the garrison, or to some private
family. Plas Spicer, in Church Street, is an old house which claims our
attention next, once belonging to a family of that name, but which has
long since been extinct. Plas Mawr, belonging to William Griffith, Esq.
a branch of the Vaenol and Penrhyn families, then resident at Trefarthen,
in Anglesey, and Plas Pilston, the present Red Lion, are the two last we
shall mention. There is a handsome Monument to the memory of the former
at Llanbeblig, which we shall notice when we come to describe that
Church, over the door are the following initials, W.G. M.G.—in another
part, J. G. M. G. date, 1590. With respect to the latter, it is
remarkable only on account of its antiquity, and the fate of its original
Proprietor, Sir Roger de Puleston, a distinguished favourite of Edward I.
He had been appointed Sheriff, and Keeper of the County of Anglesey, in
1284: what office he held here is uncertain; but being directed in 1294,
to levy the subsidy for the French war, a Tax the Welsh had never been
accustomed to, they took up Arms, and hanged De Pulesdon, and several of
his people. This was a signal for a general Insurrection,—Madoc, a
Relation of the late Prince Llywelyn, headed the people of this County.
Edward marched against them in person, and with great difficulty reduced
the country to submit again to his yoke.
In Newgate Street, is the County Gaol, built about 18 or 20 years ago, by
Mr. Penson of Wrexham; it was then considered by much too large, but we
lament to say that at present it is frequently crowded; adjoining, but
fronting Ditch Street, is the County Hall, at the West end of which is
the Grand Jury Room, both spacious and commodious. In the former, over
the Bench, is the likeness of J. Garnons, Esq. at one time Prothonotary
on this Circuit; in the latter, that of Hugh Leycester, Esq. our highly
respected Chief Justice: a gentleman, who by his upright conduct,
inflexible integrity, just and impartial decisions, and deep legal
knowledge, has deservedly acquired a very high reputation in his
profession; and who by his politeness of manners, and affability of
demeanour, has justly endeared himself to the Inhabitants of this part of
the Principality, and particularly to the Gentlemen of this County, who
wishing to retain among them the resemblance of the person whom they so
highly esteem and respect, and with whom they have been in the habit of
friendly intercourse for many years, have requested him to sit for his
picture, the expence of which was defrayed by voluntary Contributions;
from the eagerness to come forward on the occasion, the Subscription was
completed in a very short time, besides leaving a handsome surplus in the
hands of the Committee, who gave £20 of it to the Widows and Orphans of
those who perished in the Brig Elizabeth, which was upset and lost early
last year, near Carnarvon Bar; the remainder is placed in the Bank, to be
appropriated to the first charitable purpose that offers. Adjoining the
Grand Jury Room are the Offices of the Prothonotary and Clerk of the
Peace, and near to these, outside of the walls, at the extremity of the
Quay or Pier, is the Custom-House, a substantial and convenient modern
Building.
St. Mary’s Chapel, is situated on the North West, of the Town, adjoining
one of the Towers of the Wall: it is represented by most authors, as
having originally been built for the use of the Garrison, and to have
afterwards been claimed by the Corporation. Some years ago, either the
Curate, or the Clerk by his direction, used to go about the town at
Easter, to collect Donations and Subscriptions, for performing English
Service, in this Chapel. It is now generally called the Town Church, and
is served by the Vicar of Llanbeblig. It was rebuilt in the year 1812,
(with the exception of the old arches) partly by Subscription, assisted
by the Corporation, who annually let a number of Pews as their property.
The Marquis of Anglesey presented them with an excellent Organ, which is
considered a very fine toned Instrument.
The Suburbs, or Town without the Walls, consists of the following
Streets: viz. Porth-mawr Street; the Bank or Dock Quay, where there are
several good brick houses; Y Pendist, or Turf Square; Crown Street;
Bangor Street; Old Boot Street: North Pen yr allt, or Toot-Hill Street;
South Pen yr allt, formerly called, Stryd y Priciau Saethu; Pont Bridd,
or Bridge Street; Stryt y Llyn, or Pool Street; Treffynon, or Holywell;
Tre’r Gof, or Smithfield; Skinners Lane; Y Maes Glas, or Green; and the
Green Gate Street.
Carnarvon is greatly improved, and considerably enlarged within these
last thirty years;—at the entrance from Bangor, the Uxbridge Arms Hotel,
a large, handsome, and commodious Inn, was built by the late Lord
Uxbridge, which is kept by Mr. George Bettiss, and where the Traveller
will meet with every attention and civility, and will find the
accommodations excellent, and the charges reasonable.—Within the same
period was erected that handsome row of houses called the Green,
terminated on the East side by the Goat Inn, built by Thomas Jones, Esq.,
of Bryntirion, who is the proprietor thereof; here also the Stranger will
meet with every attention, and where the accommodations are good, and the
charges moderate. In front of these houses there was a high bank, some
years ago, which, besides intercepting the view, was very inconvenient to
ascend and descend, particularly at the time of fairs, which are held
here; this was removed about four years ago, partly by Subscription, but
chiefly at the expence of the Parish and Corporation, who employed the
Poor during those dear Times, in removing the earth, and wheeling it down
to the Quay, which also was erected about eighteen years ago, and has
lately been extended, and rendered more spacious and convenient, so that
it now affords every facility and accommodation to Vessels loading and
unloading. The Slate Quarries, (as has before been observed) are the
chief sources of the Wealth and Commerce of this County; and in these,
thousands of the Inhabitants, are constantly employed; and scores, if not
hundreds of Waggons and Carts are engaged in bringing down the
productions of the Quarries to this Town, where they are shipped to
various parts of the World. The average annual Amount of Exports from
Port of Carnarvon, is at present, about £50,000, but there is every
reason to suppose, that, were Rail-roads formed from the several Slate
Quarries in the neighbourhood, the Export Trade would be very much
increased; as then a supply of Sates might always be secured on the
Quays; whereas now, from the uncertainty of such supply, and the
consequent delay, proprietors and masters of Vessels are unwilling to
expose themselves to the risque of incurring a heavy expence, in waiting
their turn to load; this operates more particularly on large Vessels,
their expences being heavy, in proportion to their size; and it is
certain, that many Americans and other foreigners, are deterred by these
circumstances from coming to this Port for Slate.
The long desired Light on Bardsey Island, the establishment of which is
now decided on, and which it is intended by the Corporation of Trinity
House, shall be exhibited in the ensuing Autumn, is likely to prove of
incalculable benefit; not only to the Coasting Trade of this and the
neighbouring Ports, but to Trade in general.
Steam Packets might be established between Carnarvon and Dublin. At
times when the tide might not answer for landing at the Town, on account
of the difficulty of passing the Bar, they would always find a safe and
commodious landing place at Llanddwyn Point, about seven miles distant
from Carnarvon; with the capability of a good Carriage Road to the Town
being made, at a small expence. The late improvements at Llanddwyn, have
rendered it particularly eligible for the above purpose, the Trustees of
Carnarvon Harbour having erected a Breakwater, and Beacon, for the safety
and comfort of Navigators. The distance from Carnarvon to Capel Curig,
through the beautiful and romantic Pass of Llanberis, is eighteen miles;
from Holyhead, by Bangor Ferry forty-two miles: The traveller would
therefore save twenty-four miles, by adopting the former line.
This Town is capable of much improvement, as a place of resort for
strangers, particularly in the Summer season; at which period, it is even
now visited by many, but from the want of sufficient comfortable
accommodation, and other conveniences to induce them to remain, a weekly,
nay almost a daily change is observable, in a continued succession of
visitors. Were comfortable Lodging Houses erected, with Baths attached,
(which might be done with much ease) and the shore cleared, at certain
convenient points, with public Machines, and Attendants, there is little
doubt of this delightfully situated Town, becoming in a short time a
favourite Watering Place, and consequently, improving rapidly.
Edward I. bestowed on Carnarvon its first Royal Charter, and made it a
free Borough: among other privileges, none of the Burgesses could be
convicted of any crime committed between the Rivers Conway and Dyfi,
unless by a Jury of their own Townsmen. The representative of the place
is elected by its Burgesses, and those of Conway, Pwllheli, and
Crickaeth; the right of voting is in every one, resident, or
non-resident, admitted to their Freedom. Bondsmen in former times,
living in the Town a year and a day, and paying scot and lot, gained
their liberty, and in those days Jews were not permitted to reside here.
The first member was John Puleston; and the second time it sent
representatives, (which was the 1st Edward VI) it chose Robert Puleston,
and the County elected John, as if both Town and County determined to
make reparation to the family, for the cruelty practised on their
ancestor. It gives the title of Marquis to James Brydges, Lord Chandos;
and that of Earl, to Henry Herbert, Baron Porchester, who was created a
Baron Oct. 17, 1780, and advanced to the Earldom June 29, 1793. Leland,
who travelled through this County, in the time of Henry VIII. makes the
following observation, with regard to the situation of Carnarvon, in his
Itinerary, “Cadnant brook, rising three miles off, cometh through the
Town Bridge of Caernarvon, and goeth by itself into the Menai area, so
that Caernarvon standeth betwixt two Rivers, both coming into the said
straits of the Menai.”
In this Parish there are 700 Houses assessed for Poor’s Rate, 517 of
which are in the Town; adding to these the number of families excused
from poverty, and those who receive parochial Relief, it may reasonably
be inferred, that the Population of Carnarvon is about 6000, exclusive of
Mariners. There needs no other observation on the salubrity of the air,
than the following extract from the Report of the Select Vestry of
Carnarvon, in 1819:—“Among those who receive Parochial Relief, are 19,
aged from 80 to 90 years; 28, from 70 to 80; 42, from 60 to 70; and 39,
from 50 to 60.”
In the Town are the following Dissenting Chapels, a Presbyterian Chapel
in Bangor Street,—the Calvinist’s at Pen yr allt,—the Wesleyans’ in
Smithfield, or Tre’r gof, and the Baptists’ at Treffynon. There are five
Fairs held annually at Carnarvon, viz. March 12th, May 16th, August 12th,
September 20, and December 5.
The following beautiful Stanzas, appeared in the North Wales Gazette,
November 27, 1812, signed JUNIUS, which may not be thought out of place
here; they were written by Mr. B. Brocas, at that time residing in this
Town:
Does thy Harp, O Cambria, Slumber?
Are thy sainted Bards no more?
Once it breath’d a sweeter number
Than e’er sigh’d round Scylla’s shore.
Where are now those magic wonders,
Which its touch could once inspire?
Where thy Minstrels’ martial thunders,
Glanc’d from hands and lips of fire.
Are thy glories sunk for ever,
Are they set to rise no more?
Must we henceforth hail them never,
On this muse-deserted shore?
Yes! prophetic Science hear’s me,
Thus bewail her ancient seat,
Lifts her spoil crown’d head, and cheers me,
Echoing thus the cry of fate:—
“Thy bless’d shade, O Taliesin!
Waft on soft Elysian gales,
To impart thy heav’n-taught lesson,
To some favour’d child of Wales.
“Let Thy Spirit hover o’er him,
Strike him with thy hallow’d fire:
Prostrate nations shall adore him,
Deck’d with Thy immortal lyre.
“Thus shall Cambria once more flourish,
High, as e’er in times of yore;
And her sacred soil, still nourish
Heav’n born bards for evermore.”
We cannot quit this place without informing the stranger, (if he be not
already aware of the circumstance) that a Society has been lately
established here, as well as in the other Divisions of the Principality,
which has been denominated the “_Cymmrodorion Society in Gwynedd_;” and
whose object is the preservation of Ancient British Literature,—Poetical,
Historical, Antiquarian, Sacred, and Moral, and the encouragement of
National Music. The term Cymmrodorion has been adopted, (as specified by
the Members of the Committee in Powys) more particularly out of respect
to an ancient Society of that name, established in London, 1751, under
the Patronage of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. An Eisteddfod,
or Congress of Bards, was held at Carmarthen, July 8, 1819, under the
sanction of Lord Dynevor, and the Bishop of St. David’s; and another at
Wrexham, September 13, 1820, under the Patronage of Sir W. W. Wynne. A
similar Meeting is to take place at Carnarvon, sometime in the course of
the ensuing Autumn, when our greatly esteemed and highly respected Lord
Lieutenant, Viscount Warren Bulkeley, it is hoped will preside. Several
Meetings have already been held, a Committee formed, and regulations made
in order to promote its success, and ensure a full attendance.
Old Segontium occupies the summit of a hill, about a quarter of a mile to
the South East of the present Town, and is intersected by the road
leading to Bethgelert; its ancient British name was Caer Sallawg: {91} it
is about 150 yards in length, and 100 wide; some remains of the Roman
Walls are still visible, (now covered with Ivy) particularly near the
South East corner. Some years back there appeared the remnant of a
building, made with tiles, and plaistered with very hard and smooth
mortar; this is supposed to have been part of a _Hypocaust_. The mortar
in all other parts is very hard, and mixed with much gravel, and sand.
This ancient Station forms an oblong of very considerable extent,
seemingly from four to six Acres. Camden suspects that this might have
been the _Setantiorum_, Porlus of Ptolemy being willing to read it
_Segontiorum_, but the situation of the former is certainly at the mouth
of the Ribble. He is most probably right, in supposing it to have been,
in after times, named Caer Cwstenin, or the Castle of Constantine; and
that _Hugh Lupus_, who certainly invaded Anglesey, in 1098, had here a
temporary post. Mathew of Westminster asserts, (but upon what authority
is not mentioned) that Constantius, father of Constantine, was interred
here, and that Edward caused the body to be taken up, and honourably
reburied in the Church, (probably of St. Publicius). Mr. Rowlands in his
history of Anglesey says, that Helen, the supposed mother of this reputed
Saint had a Chapel {92} here, which, he tells us, was in being in his
days. Near the steep Bank of the Seiont, about one hundred yards from
the end of Pool Street, and divided by the road leading to Clynnog and
Pwllheli, are the ruins of a Roman Fort, connected, no doubt, with Old
Segontium, and intended, as it is conjectured, to protect the landing
from the river.—On two sides the walls are pretty entire, one is
seventy-four yards long, the other sixty-four; height ten feet eight
inches, thickness six feet. A great part of the facing is taken away,
which discovers the peculiarity of the Roman masonry; it consists of
regular courses, the others have the stones disposed in zigzag fashion.
Along the walls are three parallel lines of round holes, not three inches
in diameter (nicely plaistered within) which pass through the whole
thickness. There are other similar holes, which are discovered in the
end of the Wall, and some to run through it lengthways. There are
various conjectures respecting the use for which these were intended, the
most probable is, that they were for the purpose of holding the
scaffolding, which were supported, it is likely, by cylindrical iron
bars, and when taken out, the air was admitted to harden the mortar,
which was poured into the work in a liquid state. Near one corner, some
years ago, the foundation of a round Tower was discovered; it was paved,
and in it were found the horn of a deer, and skeletons of some lesser
animals. There were similar ruins on the opposite shore, and within
these few years, in scouring the channel of the river, large pieces of a
curious old foot Bridge were discovered, supposed to have been Roman.—A
gold coin, of about seventeen shillings weight, was found here, inscribed
T. DIVI AVG FIL AVGVSTVS. And a small one, of mixed metal, with a head,
and the following legend on one side: ANTONINVS AVG PIVS P P TR. P. XXII.
on the other a female figure, leading a small animal with her right hand,
and holding a spear in her left, and the following letters, SALVTI AVG
COS IIII. And a stone with the following Letters, continued for many
years, in a wall near the road, about the centre of Segontium, and which
has lately disappeared, S V C supposed by some to mean, Segontium urbs
Constantine. Cadwallon, one of the Princes of Wales, about A.D. 620, (on
account of Anglesey being infested by the Irish and Pictish Rovers)
removed the British Court from Aberffraw, where it had been placed about
200 years before, by Caswallon law hir, to Segontium. The Roman road
from Segontium to Dinorwig, and thence to Cornovium, was visible on a
part of Rhos Bodrual, till within these few years, when that part of the
Common was cultivated.
The Mother or Parish Church of Carnarvon, called Llanbeblig, is situated
about one hundred yards beyond, or to the East of old Segontium, and
according to our Historians, is dedicated to St. Publicius, Son of Macsen
Wledig, (Maximus the Tyrant) and his Wife Helen, Daughter of Endef, Duke
of Cornwal.—It is said that he retired from the World, and took a
religious habit. Richard II. bestowed this Church, and the Chapel at
Carnarvon, on the Nuns of St. Mary’s, in Chester, in consideration of
their poverty; and in the recital of another Charter of the same Prince,
it is mentioned that his Grandfather, Edward III. had bestowed on those
Religious, the Advowson of Llangathen, in Carmarthenshire; both which on
the Dissolution, were annexed to the See of Chester, and remain to this
day, under the Patronage of the Bishop of that Diocese. In a recess to
the North of the Communion Table, is an elegant Altar Tomb, with the
following inscription: Here lieth the body of William Griffith, Esq. the
Son of William Griffith, Knight, who died Nov. 28, 1587, and Margaret his
Wife, Daughter of John Wynne ap Meredith, Esq. who built this Tomb, 1593.
{95}—Their figures are in white Marble, lying on a mat, admirably carved;
he is in armour, she has on a short quilled ruff, and ruffles at her
wrists, in a long gown, and a sash around her waist. And in the
Churchyard, some years ago, was the following, which it may be useful to
preserve, as it is very probable that a house in this neighbourhood, _Cae
Bold_, took its name from this family:—Here lyeth the body of Ellin Bold,
Daughter of William Bold, Esq. and Wife to John Ranshcraf, of Breton,
Gent. who died 1st day of April, 1663. And near it the following: Here
lyeth interred the body of John Smyth, of Carnarvon, the elder, who died
the 23d day of May, A.D. 1645. In the late Mr. Foxwist’s pew, in the
said Church, on a brass plate, is the following inscription;
In quo præ multis, scribend i gloria fulsit,
Ricardus Foxwist, hic pede tritus adest,
Annus Christi tutus fuit M.D: luce patrici
Dum tenet expirans, vulnera quinque tua;
Corporis atque tui, tandem pars, aditur alt’ra,
Dum conjux uno, clauditur in tumulo,
Hæcque Johanna fuit, ac _Spicer_ nata Johanne;
Pauperibus larga, justa, pudica; fuit,
Several pleasant excursions may be recommended to the Tourist, whilst
resident at Carnarvon: 1st. He may either cross the Strait by the
Carnarvon Ferry, called Tal y Foel, and examine Newborough, (once the
seat of our ancient Princes) and that part of the Anglesey coast, or,
engage a boat, and sail down to Aber Menai; visit the Barracks, called by
the Welsh Y Belan, and proceed from thence to the once celebrated
Peninsula of Llanddwyn, which, though in the time of Edward III. it
contained only eight small houses, (then called _Weles_,) yet in the
reign of Henry VIII. was one of the richest Prebends in the Cathedral of
Bangor; its wealth arose not from the real fertility of the place, but
from the superstition of the common people—from pilgrimages to crosses,
reliques, Holy wells, ordeals, and what Mr. Rowlands calls
_ichthuomania_, or divination from Fishes.—In the time of Owen Glyndwr,
one Yorwerth Vychan, Rector of Llanddoged, made pretentions to the
Offerings, and sacrilegiously seized on them; but Griffith le Yonge,
Chancellor to that Chieftain, interfered, and by a decree of his, put a
stop to the invasion of the rights of the place: Here are still visible
the ruins of the old Church, dedicated to St. Dwywen, Daughter of
Brychan, one of the holy _Colidei_, or primitive Christians of Britain,
who distinguished themselves by living in seclusion and retirement.—Near
it are some of the remains of the prebendal house:—The first appears to
have been no inelegant building; the last is noted for the residence of
Richard Kyffin, Rector of this place, and Dean of Bangor, before
mentioned. The Barracks, above alluded to, were created about 35 or 40
years ago, by the late Lord Newborough, of Glyn Llifon, when he was
Colonel of the Militia of this County, for the accommodation of the men
when called out on permanent duty.
Some of the Inhabitants of Carnarvon are frequently employed in fishing,
during the greatest part of the year, both in the Menai and Carnarvon
Bay; the fish principally taken are the following, viz. Cod, Turbot,
Soles, Salmon, Mullet, Bream, Ray, &c. all excellent in their kind;
Oysters are also taken on the Anglesey coast. There is a small Creek, or
Harbour near the point of Llanddwyn, where vessels frequently put in to
await the return of the Tide. A red and a black Buoy, and also a Perch,
have been placed near the entrance of Carnarvon Bar, for the direction of
Navigators. The Botanist, Naturalist, Sailor, or Sportsman, would find
sufficient employment, and meet with considerable amusement during a
short voyage of this description, as there are varieties of Shells on the
sea shore, some scarce Plants on the rocks, and Rabbits in the sand
banks. The Straits of the Menai have frequently been the scene of many a
bloody encounter between the Welsh, Irish; Danes, &c. and the reader may
not probably be displeased with our introducing here, a part of Gray’s
spirited version of the Rev. Evan Evans’s translation of Gwalchmai’s Ode,
{98a} celebrating the victory of Prince Owen Gwynedd, over three fleets
of Irish, Danish, and Norman Pirates, at Tal y Foel, nearly opposite
Carnarvon, on the Anglesey Coast, about the year 1158: “Ardwyrëaf hael o
hil Rodri,” &c.
Owen’s praise demands my Song,
Owen swift and Owen strong,—
Fairest flower of Roderick’s stem,—
Gwynedd’s shield, and Britain’s gem:
He nor heaps his brooded stone,
Nor on all profusely pours;
Lord of every regal art,
Liberal hand, and open heart.
Big with hosts of mighty name,
Squadron’s three against him came;
This the force of Erin hiding,
Side by side as proudly riding;
On her shadow, long and gay
Lochlin plows the wat’ry way:
There, the Norman sails afar,
Catch the winds, and join the war;
Black and huge along they sweep,
Burthens of the angry deep.
Dauntless on his native sands,
The Dragon {98b} son of Mona stands,
In glittering arms and glory drest,
High he rears his ruby crest.
There the thund’ring strokes begin,
There the press, and there the din;
_Tal y Moelfre’s_ {98c} rocky shore
Echoing to the battle’s roar;
Check’d by the torrent tide of blood,
Backward _Menai_ rolls his flood;
While heap’d the Hero’s feet around,
Prostrate warriors gnaw the ground:
Where his glowing eye-balls turn,
Thousand banners round him burn;
Where he points his purple spear,
Hasty, hasty rout is there;
Marking with indignant eye,
Fear to stop, and shame to fly:
There Confusion, Terror’s child,
Conflict fierce, and Ruin wild,
Agony, that pants for breath,
Despair, and honourable death.
The next expedition we shall recommend is a visit to the Llanllyfni Slate
Quarries, and the Nantlle (or as they were formerly called the Bala
Deulyn) Lakes, then proceed by Drws y Coed, to the Bethgelert road, and
return by Quellyn Lake and Bettws Village to Carnarvon. Part of this
rout, particularly from the Quarries to the main road, leading from
Carnarvon to Bethgelert, will not admit of a four-wheeled Carriage, and
it would be difficult to take even a Gig along that portion of it. The
whole of this circuit, as before described, round the huge Mynydd-mawr,
(a mountain which forms so remarkable a feature in the landscape from
Carnarvon) will make a distance probably of about one and twenty miles.
Persons who may be induced to examine this interesting part of the
County, would do well to hire ponies at Carnarvon, and set off after an
early breakfast; they would then be able to return by three or four
o’clock. The first part of the journey, for two miles and a half, is
along the Pwllheli road; about that distance, (a few yards beyond a small
bridge) the turn on the left must be taken, afterwards the Slate Carts
(of which the stranger will meet with a great number) will be a
sufficient direction. It is thought necessary to mention these
particulars, as there are neither mile stones nor finger posts to point
the way, and but few of the country people understand the English
language; the stranger would therefore act wisely to engage a good
intelligent guide, well recommended by some gentleman resident at
Carnarvon. Pont Seiont (above and below which the Scenery is very
beautiful) is a bridge within a short mile of the town, and between which
and Pont Newydd, (another bridge over the River Gwyrfai, a mile further,)
there is a Manor belonging to the Bishop of Bangor, called _Castellmai_,
the principal Freeholders in which, 1647, were the following, as appears
by the Extent Book: Dr. Williams, late Archbishop of York, W. Glynn, Esq.
John Bodvell, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. John Robins, Esq. William Spicer,
Esq. Sir W. Williams, Bart. Richard Prytherch, Esq.; Parish of
Llanfaglan, ditto, John Bodvell, Esq. Wm. Foxwist, Esq. Thomas Glynn,
Esq. Hugh Griffith, Esq. Richard Prytherch, Esq. John Robins, Esq.:
Llanwnda Parish,—William Foxwist, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. Thomas Williams,
Esq. and Thomas Glynn, Esq.
There is a called Gwaredog, a little to the S.E. of the last mentioned
bridge, which is celebrated (according to our Welsh Pedigrees) as the
birth-place of the renowned Patrick, the Patron Saint of the Irish; has
genealogy is thus given, in Bonedd y Saint, published in the Myvyrian
Archaiology: Padric Sant ap Alfryd ap Gronwy ap Gwdion ap Dôn o Waredawg
yn Arvon. Several other places contend for this honor, such as
Abergwaun, or Fishguard, in Pembrokeshire; Ystrad Clwyd, (or Clyde’s
Dale) in Scotland, and several places in Ireland. The river _Gorfai_ is
the boundary between the two Commots of Uwch and Is-Gorvai, in the
Hundred or Cantrev of Arvon. About half a mile beyond Pont Newydd, on
the right, is Dinas Dinoethny, the residence of Captain Jones.—This
appears to have been one of the principal Roman Encampments in this
neighbourhood, and to have had several small out-posts connected with it,
which was the case also with Dinas Dinlle, a remarkable _tumulus_, or
eminence, on the sea-coast, about two miles further, as well as with
Craig y Dinas, on the river Llyfni, and Dinorwig, in the parish of
Llanddeiniolen, before mentioned; a list of which, together with the
subordinate Posts, connected with them, we shall hereafter insert. About
a quarter of a mile beyond Dinas Dinoethwy, on the right, is Llanwnda, a
small Church, dedicated to _St. Gwyndaf_. The Rectorial Tithes are
annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the small Vicarage,
which is discharged and consolidated with the Chapel of Llan Faglan,
dedicated to St. Baglan, situated near Aber menai, is in the Patronage of
the Bishop of Bangor. The population of Llanwnda, in 1801, was 826, and
of Llan Faglan 102. Near a small bridge, (as before-mentioned) called
Glann y Rhyd, the Tourist will follow the left hand road until he arrives
within a mile of the village of Llanllyfni, when he will again turn on
the left, near a smithy, and proceed towards the Slate Quarries; and he
will soon perceive, when he enters this little vale, that the Scenery
here, as well as in most parts of North Wales, unfolds its beauty
gradually as the traveller advances, until at last it displays itself in
all its grandeur and magnificence. This Defile is bounded on the South
and East by mountains of considerable height and magnitude, which assume
a variety of shapes and characters as we proceed. It was from this
narrow vale, which is but little known to strangers, that Wilson took his
celebrated view of Snowdon, which has been so much and so deservedly
admired; the situation was probably near the Nantlle Lakes, where Edward
I. in the summer of 1284, resided for some days; and from thence issued
several of his Edicts, some dated July 17, and others the 20th, and one
from Carnarvon, as late as the 22nd of October in the same year, which
shews what attention he paid to the establishment of governments in his
new Dominions. The place which he occupied here during that time, was
called Bala {103} Deulyn, and had been in the possession of the
descendants of the Welsh Princes, ever since the time of Owen Gwynedd, as
appears from authorities mentioned in Sir John Wynne’s History of the
Gwydir Family, to which we have before alluded.
The principal Slate Quarries (which are near these lakes) are the Cilgwyn
and Havodlas; here there is a Steam Engine, to supply the place of
another, which lately fell into the quarry, and was broke; they are
situated in the Parish of Llandwrog, (which we soon shall have occasion
to notice in our progress to Clynog) and their produce is conveyed to
Carnarvon. The variation in the size of the Slates took place about 75
years ago; before that time, they were all nearly of the same dimensions,
and very small; but a larger sort having been introduced, it became
necessary, for the sake of distinction, to give them a new name, and
being _doubled_ in size, and also in price, they were denominated
_Doubles_, and one thousand of these were considered and accounted by the
Workmen as equal to _two_ thousand; the first sort was therefore
distinguished by the name of _Singles_.—Some time after, another sort was
introduced, increasing still in size, so as to double those called
_doubles_, and were therefore called _Double doubles_, and the men
counted every thousand of these as four thousand: afterwards a still
larger sort was found necessary, and General Warburton, the proprietor of
the Penrhyn Estate, being in the country about that time, is said to have
given these last, the honorable name of _Countesses_; and the former,
viz. the double doubles, he denominated _Ladies_; since that time two
others of still greater magnitude have been added, which are
distinguished by the names of _Duchesses_ and _Queens_. The colour of
these States, as well as those of Cefn Du, in the Parishes of Llanbeblig
and Llanrug, though of an equally good, if not better quality, differ a
little from those of Cae Braich y Cafn, or Mr. Pennant’s Quarry, the
former being either of a brown cast, or red tinge, while the latter are
of a dark blue. Some of the Welsh have supposed that an ancient prophecy
of Merddyn ap Morvran, (or Merlinus Caledonius) received its
accomplishment when these Quarries were discovered, and so many men
employed, viz. That the time would come, when the rocks of Carnarvonshire
would be converted into bread. It is to be regretted that the
proprietors of these numerous Slate Quarries, do not unite together, and
form a good Iron Rail Road, or tram-way, to Carnarvon, which though it
may be attended with great expence in the execution, would eventually be
productive of considerable advantage to the adventurers.—And as we are
upon this subject, we cannot help lamenting another circumstance which
proves a considerable diminution of the benefits arising from these
sources of support and employment to the labouring Poor, viz. that so
many accidents, by the sudden explosions of charges of Gunpowder, the
falling of Stones, rubbish, and fragments of Rocks, &c. and breaking of
ropes, whereby many of the workmen are lamed and maimed, and others lose
their sight, and thus become chargable to different Parishes. It would
be desirable therefore, to have a Fund for the relief of these poor
sufferers; and for this purpose, the Proprietors, or their Agents, might
easily establish a Club, or Friendly Society, towards which they should
contribute liberally, themselves, and also make such an arrangement, that
a small sum should be allotted, either weekly or monthly, from the wages
of the Labourers, towards their support when incapacitated, either by
casualties or illness, from following their usual occupation; and also
for the purpose of procuring medical advice.
Llanllyfni, before mentioned, is a small Village on the road to
Crickaeth, Penmorva, and Tremadoc.—It is a discharged Rectory, valued in
the King’s Books at £7 17_s._ 6_d._ and dedicated to St. Rhediw, a Saint
(says Mr. W. Owen Pughe) whose history is not known; he is supposed to
have been buried here; and his well, his seat, the print of his Horse’s
foot, and the mark of his Thumb on a Stone, are still pretended to be
shewn. Near the upper end of this narrow pass are some Copper Mines,
where some few workmen are employed, but the Vein is small, and the
quantity of Ore hitherto obtained, though of a good quality, has been
very inconsiderable.
The curious Visitor of these mountainous districts, will be induced, no
doubt, before he descends into the Bethgelert road, to call at
Drws-y-coed, a mountain Farm, near which, in a small Lake, known by the
name of _Llyn y Dywarchen_, is the celebrated Floating Island, mentioned
by Giraldus, and which he denominates _insula erratica_; what is
dignified with the name of Island, is merely a considerable portion of
the Turbery ground, on the side of this small Pool, undermined, and torn
off, and adhering together by the entangling of the Roots, of such Plants
as generally grow on Bogs and Morasses. Here may be found the Nymphœa
lutea & alba, or yellow and white Water Lily, (and other Aquatic Plants)
which are not uncommon in most of the Lakes in the vicinity of Snowdon.
If the Traveller be so disposed, and the weather favourable, he will here
have an opportunity of ascending Snowdon, from the Guide’s House, near
Cawellyn (Quellyn) Lake; from whence there is a tolerable Horse Path till
within a quarter of a mile of the apex, made for the purpose of bringing
down Copper Ore from Bwlch glas, a gap, or opening between the two
summits of Snowdon. This and the one along the side of Cwm Brwynog, in
the Parish of Llanberris, (which we shall hereafter more particularly
describe) are considered the two easiest and safest ascents; and along
either of which, any person, who is a tolerable horseman, may ride a
Welsh Pony, as far as the spot above mentioned.
We shall now conduct the Stranger to the Village of Llanberis, which on
account of its singular situation, at the end of a Lake, in a narrow
Vale, nearly at the foot of Snowdon, is well worth his attention. The
distance from Carnarvon is about ten miles; the first five of which, so
far as a place called Cwm y Glo, (though rough, uneven, and greatly
injured by the Slate Carts) will admit of a Carriage; and from thence a
Boat may be engaged. After travelling about a mile and a half from
Carnarvon, we obtain a view of the River Seiont, and having proceeded
along its banks a short way, we cross it, over a handsome Arch, built in
1769, by one Henry Parry, as appears by a stone in the Battlement, and
where he is underservedly denominated the modern _Inigo_: afterwards we
turn to the left; on an eminence to the right, at a little distance from
the road, is Llanrug, {108} a small Church, dedicated to St. Michael, and
formerly called Llanfihangel yn Rûg. Some years ago, the following
little Sonnet was written on beholding this small structure, after a few
weeks absence:
Oft as yon Fane presents its simple form;
That small shrill Bell, that duly tolls aloud
Each day of rest,—to call the rustic croud;
Yon aged Yew-tree, bending with the storm;
The thought recurs—that by indulgent Heaven,
This humble flock, to feed with constant care,
Their morals form, and truths divine declare,
To me unworthy, has the charge been given.
Then let me still, their faithful Pastor prove,
By precepts teach, and bright example lead
My flock the upward road, to bliss; and read
With fervor due His word, whose name is _Love_!
When thus my work is finish’d, and my race is run,
That Great, Good Shepherd may pronounce “well done.”
The extent of the Parish is about five miles in length, and two in
breadth: the number of Inhabited Houses in 1811, was 158, and of
Inhabitants, 682.—It is a small Rectory, and valued in the King’s Books
at £5 12_s._ 6_d._ When arrived at the foot of a Hill, the road to the
left must be taken, which leads to Cwm y Glo before mentioned, consisting
of a group of Cottages, in a snug romantic situation, greatly and
deservedly admired; and near them a small Harbour, for Boats employed in
fishing, and bringing down Slate and Copper Ore.—On the top of the Hill,
before we descend to this place, there is a circular Rock on the left,
strongly fortified, which was probably a subordinate post to Dinas
Dinlle, Dinas Dinoethwy, and Dinas Dinorwig, before mentioned, and which
being at the entrance of this narrow pass, served to communicate any
signal to Dolbadern Castle, which is situated on a Rock between the two
Lakes, and from whence again, any notice, or intelligence of an enemy’s
approach, was conveyed to the upper end of the Vale, and so on to Capel
Curig, Dolwyddelen, &c. From this Rock there is a most grand and
magnificent view, which on account of its opening suddenly and
unexpectedly, has the effect of enchantment. Snowdon seems to soar in
proud pre-eminence, and to look down upon the surrounding subject Hills
with conscious superiority; some of which however, such as Erlidir, Garn,
and Glydair, on the left, (or North of the Vale) Crib Goch, and Carnedd
Higgon, on the right, appear to rival their Majestic Lord. This grand
scenery,—this wonderful display of the works of the Most High, appears
again to great advantage, as we enter the Lake from the channel of the
River; but before we proceed, it will be proper to give a short account
of a very extra ordinary personage, (_Margaret ferch Evan_,) who lived
near this place, and denominated by Mr. Pennant, Queen of the Lakes.—He
observes further, that when he visited her Cottage, at Penllyn, in 1786,
she was about ninety years of age, and says, that she was the last
specimen of the strength and spirit of the ancient British Fair; but the
correctness of this remark may justly be doubted, as there is a Female,
(Catherine Thomas) now living at Cwm glas, (about a mile above the Church
of Llanberis) who is by no means inferior to Mr. P’s Heroine, either in
strength or agility: the following anecdote related by herself, may be
mentioned as an instance of her uncommon courage; some years age, as she
was one day watching her Sheep on one of the Rocks near her house, she
perceived a Stranger, (to all appearance a very strong, lusty man) enter
in, and having remained there a short time, he departed; Catherine
hastened home, and having examined her Cottage; she discovered that the
Stranger had stolen a Silk Handkerchief, and several other articles of
wearing Apparel; she immediately pursued him, and having taken in her
hand the post of a small gate or wicket, and taking a shorter path, she
overtook him near Gorphwysfa, almost at the upper end of the pass, (a
most lonely situation) and having laid hold of him with one hand, she
shook him well, in order to convince him of her strength, and then struck
him with the club, or rather post, that was in the other, saying at the
same time, You villain! how dare you enter into my house and steal my
property? she then took from him his Wallet, and adding, Let me see what
thou hast got in this bag? then emptying the contents, she took up her
own property, and after giving him one or two more hard strokes, she
charged him at his peril, never to enter that Vale again, otherwise he
would not be suffered to depart without a much severer chastisement. The
following is another instance of her extraordinary strength: Mr. Jones,
the Agent of the Copper Mines at Llanberis, about eighteen years ago, was
superintending the loading of Ore, near the small Quay, at the upper end
of the Lake; and Catherine happening to be one of the Spectators, Mr. J.
went behind her unperceived, and laying hold of her, jocularly said, “now
Catherine, suppose I push you into the Lake;”—presently, she also got
behind him; and though he was a tall, strong, lusty than, she laid hold
of him under the Shoulders, and holding him up nearly at arm’s length,
Now Sir, said she, suppose I drop you in? This extraordinary woman, who
is of a very masculine appearance, and has a pretty long black beard,
lives in a lonely Cottage, situated beyond the usual haunts of her fellow
Creatures, and without a single inmate; and though her appearance is so
unfeminine, yet she is humane, gentle and charitable, esteemed and
respected in her neighbourhood. After this long digression, we hasten to
relate the numerous qualifications, and uncommon exploits of her rival
Amazon, the before mentioned Margaret ferch Evan, whose character I shall
sum up in Mr. Pennant’s own words,—She was the greatest hunter, shooter,
and fisher of her time; she kept a dozen at least, of Dogs, Terriers,
Greyhounds, and Spaniels, all excellent in their kinds.—She killed more
Foxes in one year, than all the confederate Hunts do in ten;—rowed
stoutly, and was Queen of the Lakes;—fiddled excellently, and knew all
our old music;—did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a good
Joiner, and made Cards for dressing Wool; and at the age of seventy, was
the best wrestler in the country, few young men daring to try a fall with
her.—Some years ago, she had a Maid of congenial qualities, but Death,
“that mighty hunter,” earthed this faithful companion of her’s; Margaret
was also Blacksmith, Shoemaker, Boat-builder, and maker of Harps:—she
could also mow Hay, shoe her own Horses, make her own Shoes, and build
her own Boats, while she was under contract to convey the Copper ore down
the Lakes. We must not forget, that all the neighbouring Bards paid
their addresses to her, and celebrated the exploits of their beloved
_Margaret_, in pure British verse; at length she gave her hand to the
most effeminate of her admirers, (who was a harper) as if predetermined
to maintain the superiority which nature had bestowed on her.
About half a mile to the North of Pen y Llynn, (or the lower end of the
Lake) are the remains of _Llys Dinorddwig_, a house said to have been one
of the Palaces of Prince Llewelyn ap Gruffydd; the walls high and strong,
the hall twenty-four yards long, and before the house is a deep ditch,
over which had probably been a drawbridge. Not very far from hence is a
spot called Rhiw’r Cyrn, or the Brow of the Horns, where according to
ancient usage, an Officer stood and blew his horn, to give notice to the
Household of the approach of their Master, or to summon the Vassals to
assemble on all emergent occasions. Near this place was discovered,
about twenty years ago, a Stone, about Four Feet in length, one in
breadth, and about Six Inches thick, with the following inscription, IMP
Q TRO DECIO VS.—Persons going up the Lake may be landed either near the
New Inn, or on the Meadow below Mr. Smith’s Cottage, or they may proceed
to the extremity of the upper Pool, and walk from thence to the Village,
which is about a quarter of a mile distant, and procure refreshment at
Robert Closs’s, who keeps a small Inn there; the Landlord of this House,
as well as Pierce Jones, who lives at the other Inn, are both very civil
and obliging men, and will either act as Guides themselves, or will
procure persons to attend any Gentlemen up Snowdon, or to any of the
neighbouring Villages: Ponies may also be obtained at both these Houses:
and though the accommodations may not be equal to what we generally meet
with in large Towns, and on Public Roads, yet the Botanist, the
Mineralogist, the Artist, the Angler, and in short every person who is an
admirer of Nature, and is fond of the wonderful and sublime, will
contrive to remain a few days in this romantic, though secluded spot.
One Day may be well employed in examining Mr. Smith’s Quarries, yr Allt
Ddu, and Clogwyn y Gigfran, and observing the men while at work, many of
whom descend fifteen or twenty yards, by the assistance of two Ropes,
(one about their middle, and the other in their hands) to a small ledge,
over a dreadful precipice, where they continue engaged for many hours, in
boring, or detaching considerable fragments from the main Rock, and
ascend again in the same manner.—A visit to Twll Du, a stupendous _roche
fendue_, or split Rock, near Llyn y Cwn, about three miles North of the
Village, and mentioned by Mr. Pennant, might be recommended, as a very
rational and pleasing amusement for the second Day: this might also
include a walk over Glydair Fawr, to examine the immense columnar Rocks
on Glydair Bach; and noticed by the same Gentleman, one of which it about
25 Feet long, and six broad; the summit of this Mountain is covered with
groups of these columnar Stones, lying in all directions, and in some
places piled one upon the other. From the two Glydairs’ may be seen
several Lakes, such as Llyn Idwal, Llyn Bochlwyd, and Llyn Ogwen; and
also the Great Irish Road, leading from Bangor Ferry to Capel Curig.
From this eminence may also be surveyed that most singular Mountain
called Trevaen, (trifurcated) which is more conical, more insulated, and
more completely detached from all the surrounding Hills and Rocks, than
perhaps any other in the Principality, and it is so steep on every side,
that it is considered, even by the Shepherds, a Feat of great vigour,
agility, and courage, to ascend this stupendous natural Pyramid; and
there being two columnar Rocks on the very summit, about 8 Feet high, and
nearly 4 from each other, and overhanging a most frightful Precipice, and
the space on the top of each very confined, it is thought a proof of
noble daring, to challenge each other to climb up, and step from one to
the other; these stones, at a particular part of the Road from Ogwen Pool
to Capel Curig, have the appearance of two men, and it is jocularly
related by the Peasants, that a Gentleman once stood a considerable time
expecting them either to move or come down. The Mountains in this part
of Carnarvonshire, (observes Mr. Pennant) are of a stupendous height,
mostly precipitous, the tops of many edged with pointed Rock; I have,
from the depth below, says he, seen the Shepherds skipping from peak to
peak, but the point of contact was so small, that from this distance,
they seemed to my uplifted eyes, like beings of another Order, floating
in the Air. And lastly Snowdon, will no doubt occupy one or two days
more, in a most pleasing and agreeable manner.
There are three different Routs by which Strangers are generally
conducted up this celebrated Mountain: the best, and most usual, is that
commencing between the New Inn and Dolbadarn Castle, near the Bridge, and
following the course of the River for about a quarter of a mile, and
passing very near the Waterfall called Caunant Mawr, then turning to the
left, and pursuing the Copper Sledge path-way, along the South slope of
the ridge of Hills between the upper vale of Llanberis and Cwm Brwynog,
as far as the Sheep-fold, and the Copper Mine at the upper end of Waun
Cwm Brwynog; then turning to the left, (or North) and winding up the side
of the slope or ridge, cross over till we are in view of the Llanberis
pass, above the Church. During the first part of our progress, the view
was confined, but here on this mountain flat, the prospect is extensive,
particularly to the North West, where the greatest part of the Island of
Anglesey is visible; and to the East, a portion of Denbighshire may be
seen, between the mountains. We now begin to ascend Llechwedd y Re, the
formidable slope above Llyn du yr Arddu, or otherwise, Clogwyn Coch, and
Clogwyn du’r Arddu, the two precipices impending over that once black,
but _now green_ Pool; (from the effects of the Copper) after this last
ascent is surmounted, the progress is easy, and the rise very gradual,
for upwards of half a mile, till we join the Bettws, or Quellyn Copper
Ore path, near Bwlch Glas gap, before mentioned; from thence to the peak
the distance is something more than a quarter of a mile, and the ascent
easy. There was a circular wall formerly on the summit, (which is not
much more than from six to eight yards square) to shelter the visitors
from the cold, but the Bethgelert Guide, named Lloyd, having collected a
sum of money, (about five Pounds as it is supposed) from different
Gentlemen; in order to build a small hut, or shed, he made use of the
Stones for that purpose; but the miserable building which he erected, and
which is nothing more than a heap of stones piled together in the form of
a small Stack of Corn, could not have cost him more than twenty or thirty
Shillings, and is on the east side, about ten yards below the _apex_; but
at present is of no use, as it is nearly coming down:—Here it is usual
for Strangers to leave their names inscribed on the ruins of this small
Building.—Small stones are frequently found near this spot, bearing the
impression of different Shells. From this elevated situation may be
seen, in clear weather, the Wicklow Hills, on the West; the Isle of Man,
and the Cumberland and Westmoreland Mountains, on the North and North
East; and a part of South Wales to the South West: The best time for such
a view are the months of June and July, when it will be necessary to be
on the Mountain before Sun-rise, as mists and fogs generally collect soon
after.—It would not however, be advisable for persons of a tender habit,
or delicate constitution, to attempt such an arduous undertaking,
particularly in the night: at the same time it may be safely asserted,
that no person who is equal to the task, will ever have occasion to
regret having ascended Snowdon, even in cloudy weather; particularly if
the Sun should occasionally appear, as in this aerial region the scenery
and the views are perpetually shifting and changing; and many have been
known to prefer, a partially cloudy or misty, to a hot sultry day,
(though tolerably clear) for such an excursion. We shall here beg leave
to introduce some extracts from a Letter received by a young Lady, in
which her Friend gives a very lively and interesting description of the
pleasure she enjoyed on a visit to Snowden, in such weather as that above
described: “My dear Friend,—I considered myself particularly unfortunate
in not finding you at home, during my visit to North Wales; especially as
I remained so long in your immediate neighbourhood. Perhaps you may
recollect telling me, with what (I must confess) I _then_ thought a
prejudiced affection for your native scenery; ‘that no season or weather,
could deprive Snowdon of its powers of amazing, and delighting.’ The
truth of your remark forced itself into my mind, during two successive
days, on which I ascended its lofty summit. The accounts of those two
days, and the light in which my English feelings regarded your Country
scenes, will, I trust, not be uninteresting. The morning destined for
our first attempt, was ushered in by one of those intense fogs, which
portend a sultry day; the late learned, worthy, and much respected
Counsellor Dancey, was one of the party, and several Ladies and
Gentlemen: I despair of conveying to your mind, any idea of the
high-wrought expectations with which I commenced the ascent of this King
of Hills, and never were expectations more fully answered. The variety,
the constant succession of magnificent scenes, that gradually opened to
our view, are absolutely indiscribable. You may conceive a _group_, (for
we found other parties on the summit) of apparently aerial beings,
standing on an elevated peak, literally above the clouds; for the
glorious source of day, shed his Beams upon our heads, while our feet
were enveloped in mist.—Picture to yourself the Sea, when agitated by a
storm, suddenly arrested by an intense Frost, for such was, absolutely,
the appearance, the congregated mists and clouds, represented to our
astonished and enraptured eyes. In the course of about ten minutes, or a
quarter of an hour, this irregular surface of waves began to break up and
separate; and like an immense Army, sent advanced guards, and columns in
different directions. The commotion, at the first breaking up, and the
regular movements afterwards, were grand and magnificent beyond
description. After these advanced guards (which were generally fleecy,
transparent clouds, with fringes and festoons hanging in different
fantastic shapes, and reflected Beams of the Sun, throwing golden tints
upon their edges) came the main Army. Presently through the mist,
several huge Mountains reared their Leviathan backs, and immense
projections, appearing like so many capes and promontaries, stretching
out into an endless Ocean; while other rocks assumed the appearance of
small conical Islands, in this resplendent abyss. In a short time, these
advancing Armies regularly encamped, or _bovouack’d_ for the night, in
the different passes, and excavations of the mountains; this was not all,
for as we descended, while these beautifully transparent mists were
quietly at rest, some hundreds of yards below us, we suddenly beheld huge
gigantic shadows, thrown athwart the immense abyss. This was about fire
in the evening, for with a reluctance similar to that of our great
progenitors, in leaving Paradise, we lingered on the summit some hours.
We stopped and gazed, our sticks and umbrellas were converted, by the
reflection, into Goliah of Gath’s tremendous club or weaver’s beam;—we
began to brandish these weapons, and to our great amusement and
astonishment, our lengthened bulky shadows gently imitated our different
movements. At length we tore ourselves from these grand and sublime
scenes, and arrived by the dusk of the evening at the pleasant little Inn
of Llanberris. Having been so much delighted the first, I was easily
induced (undeterred by heat and fatigue) to join a party of friends, who
were going up the following day;—about half way, we had a fine distant
view of Anglesey, with the indentures formed in its coast by the Sea; a
thick mist overtook us, and shut the fairy scene from our eyes.—We
reached the summit completely enveloped in clouds, which gradually
opening, the Elyssian Vale of Nanthwynant burst upon the sight; the
clouds soon covered it again, but we were amply compensated by a view of
an extensive tract of Sea and Land, terminated by the faintly marked
outline of South Wales.—Soon another opening presented the romantic
region of Capel Curig, which with the variety of Lakes that appeared on
every side, with the Sun shining upon many of them, afforded a most
enchanting _coup de œil_.—At this moment the attention of the party was
most forcibly arrested by the appearance of our shadows reflected upon
the mists, (but not so lengthened as the day before, as it was earlier in
the afternoon) and encircled by three Rainbows of the most vivid and
distinct colours.—The effect was beyond description. It was then that
the thought of the great Creator of all these Wonders rushed upon the
mind. What an awful, incomprehensible Being must He be, who with one
word, formed these grand and magnificent scenes, and at whose nod, they
shall crumble into dust!
These are thy glorious works! Parent of good,
Almighty; thine this universal frame,
Thus wondrous fair; Thyself how wondrous then!”
Parties generally take cold meat with them, and a bottle either of Wine,
or Spirits, and dine at the Spring or Well near the side of the Quellyn
Copper path, about two hundred yards below Bwlch Glas gap, where the
Copper Ore Bin is situated.
Wyddfa, (pronounced Withva) is the Welsh name of Snowdon; and it is
sometimes, though improperly, called Eryri, which appears to have been
the general appellation in former days, of the whole range of mountains
from Conway to Clynog: Two different derivations are generally given of
the word Eryri, one is Eryr, an Eagle; and the other Eira, or Eiri, Snow;
which is the most correct we will not pretend to determine, but it
appears that the person who originally translated the word, considered
the latter to be the genuine etymology. The distance from Dolbadern
Castle to the summit, may be about six miles; two to the Turbary flat in
Waun Cwm Brwynog, two to Clogwyn Coch Copper mine, and two from thence to
the top. There are two other routs from the Village, which ought not to
be attempted except by active young men; one up the steep declivity just
above the Church, and the other through Hafn (pronounced Haven) Mawr,
near the Old Bridge, (Bont Vawr). The height of Snowdon, above
High-water mark at Carnarvon, is 3591 Feet.
Llanberis, in the Commot of Isgorfai, and Hundred of Arfon, is a small
Rectory, discharged from paying tenths, and valued in the King’s Books at
£4 18_s._ 9_d._ Patron, the Bishop of Bangor; Church, dedicated to St.
Peris. The number of inhabited Houses in the Parish, in 1811, was 86;
and the resident Population 438. Peris, to whom the Church is dedicated,
is stated in our Welsh MSS. (Bonedd y Saint) to have been a Cardinal from
Rome, who together with Padarn, (Paterninus) another Welsh Saint of
congenial habits and disposition, it is probable, withdrew from the world
to this secluded spot, as a place well adapted, according to the custom
and mistaken ideas of those dark ages, for religious retirement and
devotion: Peris fixed upon the upper Vale, which is still called Nant
Peris; and Padern chose the lower, distinguished in Leland’s time by the
name of Nant Padarn; as the properest situation for the erection of their
respective cells.—Eglwys Padarn, (the ruins of which many persons now
living recollect to have seen) was situated on a meadow, near the lower
Lake, called Llyn Padarn, on the left of the road in going from the Inn
to the old Castle. Cadvan, another religious devotee, came from Armorica
into Wales about the same time, and became Abbot of Bardsey. The upper
Lake is about a mile in length, and a quarter wide, and is said to be
twenty Fathoms deep particularly near a place called Diphwys:—and the
lower Lake, called Llyn Padarn, is about three miles in length, and
upwards of half a mile broad; both the Pools abound in Trout, and Char;
Salmon are also frequently taken in them. Not far from the Church is the
Saint’s Well, where a large Trout has for ages been exhibited to
Strangers; his appearance is considered a fortunate omen, and his
non-appearance the contrary; the present fish is about 20 or 30 years
old; the wonderful Pass, and two Cromlech’s, about two miles above the
Church, are well worth examining.—Some hopes are entertained, that the
beauties of this little Vale, will in time be accessible to strangers, by
the opening of a good Carriage Road this way to Capel Curig. An Old
Woman, many years ago, is said to have made use of the hollow, under one
of the before mentioned Cromlechs, (or fragments of Rocks) as her dairy,
during the Summer months. The distance from the Village to Capel Curig,
is about 8 miles; and to Bethgelert, through Nanthwynant, 11 or 12. The
upper end of the Pass, is called Gorphwysva, or the Resting Place. There
are three other Lakes in the Parish, besides those already mentioned,
viz. Llynn Cwm Dwthwch, in which there are very fine flavored trout, and
on which a small boat is kept for the use of anglers, by Pierce Jones,
the Innkeeper. This pool is the source of the river Hwch, flowing near
the Castle.—Llyn y Cwn, to the North, and Llyn Cwm Ffynnon, to the N.E.
of the village; in the former are some aquatic plants, particularly the
LOBELLIA DORTMANNA—SUBULARIA AQUATICA—ISOETES LACUSTRIS; and Twll Du,
below it, is the habitat of numerous and rare plants: a great variety may
also be discovered on and about Allt wen, above Mr. Smith’s Cottage,
between the two Lakes, as well as on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, at the upper end
of Waun Cwm Brwynog, and on Clogwyn y Garnedd, which is the tremendous
precipice immediately under Snowdon, to the North. The old Copper Mines,
(Shafts, Levels, &c.) near the S.E. end of the upper Lake, also claim a
visit, particularly from every Mineralogist and Geologist. At some
distance below Llynn Du’r Arddu, nearly at the upper end of Waun Cwm
Brwynog, may be observed a huge black Stone, or fragment of a Rock,
called Y Maen Du yn yr Arddu; under or upon which, according to the
popular superstition, if a person sleep a night, he will awake either a
Poet or a Madman. The Gimlet Rock, near Pwllheli, the Studwall, (or St.
Tudwal,) Islands,—the Promontory of Lleyn, (or Langanum Promontorium)—and
Bardsey Island, at its extremity, may be clearly seen from Snowdon; as
well as Cadair Idris Mountain, near Dolgelley, in Merionethshire, and
Plinlimmon in Montgomeryshire.
The old Tower, or Castle, called Dolbadern, must at one time have been
considerably larger, as the remains of other Towers, Walls, and Buildings
are still visible.—It is supposed to have been erected about the
beginning of the eleventh Century, or perhaps earlier, by one of the
Welsh Princes, {126} for the defence of this strong Pass, and to be used
occasionally as a hunting and fishing seat; for it is mentioned in the
Welsh Histories, or Chronicles, considerably earlier than Edward the 1st.
and there are some Welsh Poems still extant, which were addressed to Owen
Goch (Rufus) during the time of his imprisonment in this Fortress by his
Brother Llewelyn ap Griffith, last Prince of Wales, of the British line,
which was from the year 1254 to 1277, being 23 years: The following is a
part of an Ode, (Awdl) composed by Howel Voel ap Griffri ap Pwyll
Gwyddel, lamenting the confinement of that Prince:
Duw mawr amerawdwr dyniadon,
Dillwng dy walch, terwyn-walch tirion,
Dewr Owain, den-rudd liw ffion,
Dur-goch Bâr, llachar, llawch Deon, &c.
“Great God, the supreme Governor of the World, release from captivity,
the mild, the brave, the Lion-hearted Owen; with the ruddy Cheeks, and
his bright-gleaming steel Lance, tinged with the blood of his enemies;
the defender of all those who come to seek his protection;—he never
dismissed the injured suppliant unredressed,—the reliever of the
oppressed—the generous distributor of costly gifts. The Earth appears
desolate, since he has been in confinement,—the hopes of his dependants
are fled, and grief and disappointment will convey his friends and
adherents to the gloomy mansions of the dead.—Daring, enterprising,
successful, conquering General! He disdained to hoard up useless
treasures.—He was the Idol and Delight of his Countrymen,” &c. See the
remainder in the Myvyrian Archaiology already mentioned.
Another Poem, by the same Bard, begins thus:
Gwr sydd yn y twr yn hir westi,
Gwreidd, Teyrneidd, Teyrn-walch Ri,
Gwr a’m dothyw, gwall o’i golli,—o fyw
Gwreidd-liw, a glyw ei glodfori, &c.
The following attempt at a versification of the commencement, though,
very far inferior to the original, may, nevertheless, give the English
reader some idea of the strength and spirit of the composition:
In yonder Tower my darling Owen groans,
Oppress’d with grief, I hear his piteous moans;
Ah wretched Prince! within those walls confin’d,
A Brother’s victim—thus to death consign’d;
What mournful sounds, were to my ears convey’d,
As late dejected, o’er these rocks I stray’d;
Brave Owen’s name shall dwell upon my tongue
His matchless deeds, shall by the muse be sung
From ancient Princes, we his Lineage trace,
And valiant Chiefs, adorn his noble race;
No more his gates receive the crouded throng,
His guests no longer hear the minstrel’s song:
In war distinguish’d by his broken shield,
Like valiant Rodri, {128a} he disdain’d to yield:
Shame that a Prince, should thus in bondage pine,
Whose acts, if free, would Rhun’s {128b} fam’d deeds outshine
These lands ne’er saw the Saxon’s fire and sword,
Till he knew durance vile from Snowdon’s Lord, &c.
The reader is referred for the remainder to the publication before
mentioned.
Bishop Godfrey Goodman, purchased a Farm (Ty Du) in this Parish, where he
resided during the greatest part of the usurpation of Oliver Cromwell.
He was a native of Ruthin, and left that Farm and Coed Mawr, towards the
maintenance of the poor of his native parish. He died Bishop of
Gloucester, and made a most singular Will, printed in York’s five Royal
Tribes. About 37 years ago, a remarkably strong man, (Foulk Jones) lived
at Ty Du; many wonderful things are related of him, such as his carrying
the largest end of a piece of timber, while it required three men to
support the other;—his holding a bull, with one hand, by the
horns;—carrying a yearling heifer, that was unwell, home from the
field;—throwing a Denbighshire Champion, who had heard of his strength,
and was come over, either to fight or wrestle with him, over a wall from
a field into the road; and he is said to have lifted a strong man, who
insulted him, at Carnarvon, over the battlements of the Bridge, and to
have held him over the water, until he had submitted to make an apology,
for having so attacked him without any provocation. Many persons now
living recollect this man; he was a person of sober, peaceable habits,
and much beloved and respected by all his neighbours.
The Rev. Evan Evans, alias Prydydd Hir, Author of Dissertatio de Bardis,
Specimens of Ancient British or Welsh Poetry; The Love of our Country, 2
Vols. of Welsh Sermons, 8vo. &c. was Curate of Llanberis in the year
1771. He was then employed in collecting and transcribing Welsh MSS. and
had access to the libraries of most of the gentlemen of North Wales,
particularly to the valuable collections of Sir W. W. Wynne, Bart. (the
present gentleman’s father, and from whom he received a Pension of £20.
per Annum, which was afterwards withdrawn), those of Hengwrt, near
Dolgelley, Gloddaith, near Conway, and Plas Gwynn, P. Panton’s, Esq.
Anglesey. Mr. Evans born at Gynhawdref, near Aberystwith, in
Cardiganshire, was educated at the Grammar School of Ystrad Meirig, in
the same County, under the celebrated Mr. Richards, many years master of
that School. He shewed an early attachment to the Welsh Muse, and was
soon noticed by Mr. Lewis Morris, the famous Antiquary and Bard, who
conceived a very favorable opinion of his abilities, from some of his
juvenile compositions, in his native language.—Mr. Evans was of Merton
College, Oxford; he is said to have died in great distress and poverty,
at the place of his nativity, August, 1789, in the 58th year of his age.
The inhabitants of Llanberis still shew a pool in the river where he used
to bathe. The late Rev. B. Williams, of Vron, near Bala, Mr. Pennant’s
companion in his Welsh Tour, composed the following lines to his memory,
which may not be unacceptable to our readers, particularly at the present
period, when the love of Welsh Literature seems to be reviving:
On Snowdon’s haughty brow I stood,
And view’d, afar, old Mona’s flood;—
Carnarvon Castle, Eagle-crown’d,
And all the glorious prospect round.
But soon each gay idea fled,
For Snowdon’s favorite Bard is dead;—
Poor Bard, accept a genuine tear,
And read thy true eulogium _here_;
Here, in my _heart_, that rues the day,
That stole Eryri’s pride away:
But lo! where seen, by fancy’s eye,
His visionary form glides by,
Pale, ghastly pale,—that hollow cheek,—
That frantic look does more than speak,
And tells a tale so full of woe,
My bosom swells, my eyes o’erflow:—
To want and to despair a prey,
He pin’d, and sigh’d his soul away!
Ungrateful countrymen, your _pride_,
Your _glory_, wanted bread and died!
Whilst Ignorance and Vice are fed,
Shall Wit and Genius droop their head?
Shall fawning Sycophants be paid
For flattering fools? while thou art laid
On thy sick bed, the mountain {131} heath,
Waiting the slow approach of Death,
Beneath inhospitable skies,
Without a friend to close thine eyes?
Thus, shall the chief of Bards expire?
The Master of the British Lyre!
And shall thy hapless reliques rot,
Unwept, unhallowed, and forgot?
No, while one grateful Muse remains,
And _Pity_ dwells on _Cambria’s_ plains,
Thy mournful story shall be told,
And wept till Time itself grows old.
R. WILLIAMS, of Vron, near Bala.—1799.
About the year 1805, John Closs, son of Robert Closs, the Innkeeper at
Llanberis, a little boy about seven years of age, was persuaded to go and
reside with his grandmother, at Caeau gwynion, in Nant y Bettws, not far
from Quellyn Pool, and his mother having come to see him, the love of
home revived in his memory, and the thoughts of seeing his brothers and
sisters became so powerful, that he resolved to follow his mother to
Llanberis, unknown both to her and his grandmother; he therefore pursued
her up the mountain at some distance: it was in the winter time, late in
the evening, and it began to snow, he lost his way, and after wandering
some time, he perished on the mountain. His mother, (though she once
fancied she heard a child crying) thought he was at his grandmother’s,
and the did woman concluded he was gone home with his mother, thus both
being deceived, it was some time before it was known that he had followed
his mother on that fatal evening; after two or three days painful search,
(numbers of the neighbours having collected together) his body was found
at the verge of a precipice, near the top of Moel Aelia. The following
lines were composed on that melancholy occasion:
A luckless lad, one winter’s day,
Unknown to Granny, ran away,
Nor longer at her house would stay
Without his mother.
Unknowing that her child pursu’d,
The gathering storm, unmov’d, she view’d,
The thoughts of home her strength renew’d;—
Alas poor mother!
With feebler steps, and fainter cry,
Alarm’d, he sees the dark’ning sky,
Yet still he hop’d that she was nigh,
And sobb’d my mother.
Dark was the night, the snow descends,
Near Aelia’s top his life he ends,
As home his weary way he beads,
Nor longer cries my mother!
Some of our readers may probably be pleased and amused with the following
extracts from Leland, respecting Llanberis and its neighbourhood:
“Linne Dolbaterne, 2 miles in length, and a diminutive mile in
breadth; Vallis Monachus, alias Nant Manach, or Peris, is the upper
Valley, in which is Linne Peris, a mile in length, and a dim half in
breadth.—Segent (Seiont) cometh first through Llynn Peris, and a bow
shot off, runneth into Llyn Padarn; there is but a meadow and bridge
between these two pools.—In these two pooles be redde belly fishes,
called thorr gough (Tor goch) id est, thori aut pectoris rubri.
There be also some of these in Linne Tarddynni, (Cawellyn) and in
Linne Bala deulynn, (Llanllyfni Lakes); they be taken in these three
pooles in order, and taken in one and not seen in the other; Linne
Doythock nothing so big as Linne Peris: these three, Linne Peris,
Linne Padarn, and Linne Doythock, are all in the Parish of Llanberis,
and the lowest Lake is five miles E.S.E. from Carnarvon, and lie in
vallies, W.N.W. from Llanberis. Bala Deulynn is in Hugh Gurvai (Uwch
Gorfai) Hundred, and six miles (nine miles) beyond Carnarvon; the
others, viz. Linne Peris, Linne Dolpaterne, Linne Doythock, and Linne
Tarddynni, are in the Commot of Is Gorvai, (_infra_ Gwyrvai) and all
the great Withaw Hill {133} is wholly in this Commot; this hill is
all in the Parish of Peris, and is a _radicibus_ five miles to the
top. Dolbaterne Castle, on a rock, betwixt two Linnes; there is yet
a piece of a Tower, where Owen Gough (Goch) brother to Llywelyn, last
Prince, was in prison; it is in Is Gwrfai Commot. Dolbadarn a five
miles from Carnarvon, by E.S.E. hard by Linne Peris; Segent (Seiont)
as I heard say riseth at Linne Dolbaterne. This Pool is three miles
in length, and in some places a mile broad, and in diverse places
less and less; it lieth by Withaw Hill, (Snowdon) and is distant 5
miles from Carnarvon, towards S.E.—The best Wood of Carnarvonshire is
by Glynn Cledair, in the Parish of Dolwyddelen, and by Glynn Lligwy,
and by Capel Curig, and at Llanperis,—all Creigiau’r Ryri is Forest.
Metely good wood about Conway Abbey, and Penmachno, and about
Coetmore, and Coet Park, by Bangor, and other places; in Lleyn and
Eivionydd is little wood. Carnarvonshire, about the shore, hath
reasonable good corn, about a mile upward from the shore unto
Carnarvon,—then more upward be Eryri Hills, and in them is very
little corn, except oats in some places, and a little barley, but
scantly rye, if there were the Deer would destroy it; but in Lleyn
and Eifionydd is good corn, both by shore, and almost through upland.
Syr Gul. Griffith hath a fayr House at Penrynn, two miles on this
side Bangor; William vab William, dwelleth at a place called
Gochwillan, a mile on this side Penryn; William Coetmore, dwelleth at
Coetmore, by Tal Lynn Ogwen; Pillsdon, in Caerarvon Town; John vab
Madock vab Poel, dwelleth in Lleen, at Bodvel; John Wynne, vab
Meredith, dwelleth at Gweder, a two bow shots above Llanrwst, on the
Ripe (Bank) of the Conwy River; Elis vab Morris, at Clennenna, in
Penmorva Parish, in Comot Hinioneth (Eifionydd).”
Should the stranger not be disposed to accompany us in our Tour round the
Promontory of Lleyn, and to the Island of Bardsey, (which, by the bye, we
hope to render both interesting and amusing), he may proceed from
Carnarvon to Bethgelert, and from thence, along the sea coast, to
Barmouth, by Tremadoc and Harlech; or, from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tan y
Bwlch, Meantwrog, Trawsfynydd, and so by Dol y Melynllyn, and the Cain
and Mawddach Waterfalls to Dolgelley. The distance from Carnarvon to
Bethgelert is about 12 miles: we proceed up the Hill, by Llanbeblig, (the
Parish Church) then over Pont Peblig Bridge, about half a mile beyond
which, on the left, is Glangwnna, the beautiful and much-admired seat of
Thomas Lloyd, Esq. standing on a fine eminence, between two rivers, at
the western extremity of the Parish of Llanrug; this place, in point of
situation, possesses many natural advantages, and all the improvements
exhibit evident tokens of a judicious mind, and cultivated taste, as it
contains, within its own limits, all the requisites to form a fine
landscape, and has on one side an extensive sea prospect, on the other, a
range of majestic mountains; upon the whole, this is generally considered
as one of the sweetest and loveliest Villas in this part of the
Principality. On the right, about the same distance from the road, is
Penrhôs, a large, handsome house, lately built by the proprietor, H. R.
Williams, Esq.; it commands a fine view of the Castle, the Menai,
Carnarvon Bay, and the surrounding Scenery. About three miles farther,
we approach the beautiful little vale of Bettws Garmon, watered by the
river Gwyrfai, the source of which is at the foot of Snowdon, and after
running through Quellyn Lake, and under Pont Newydd Bridge, it empties
itself into the Menai, at Abermenai. On the right, Mynydd-mawr forms a
striking feature, its top is smooth, but its front is formed into an
immense precipice, retiring inwards in a semicircular shape. Moel Aelia,
on the left, is another mountain of a stupendous bulk, most regularly
rounded, and of a beautiful verdure; this pass was defended, on one side,
by Castell Cidwm, a great rock at the foot of Mynydd mawr, formerly
fortified, and on the other by a small Fort, the remains of which are
still visible, near Treflan Bettws is a perpetual Curacy; the Church is
very small, and is dedicated to St. Germanus, and the Parish consists
only of six or seven tenements; the corn tithe belongs to the family of
Glyn Llifon; it is in the patronage of the Bishop. About half a mile
beyond Bettws, near a small mill, Melin Cerrig y Rhyd, commonly called
Nant Mill, is a most beautiful cascade, and a small Arch, without any
Battlements, forming a very singular appearance, of which there is a
view, in Mr. Pennant’s Tour, representing a person on horseback, going
home over this little Bridge, with a load from the mill. On the left is
Nant Hall, one of the seats of Sir R. Williams, Bart. Member for this
County.—The present lord Viscount Bulkeley is a descendant (by the
mother’s side) of the Rowland’s of this house.—Soon after passing Nant,
the Vale expands with a magnificent view of Snowdon—travel along the side
of Llyn Cawellyn, pass the Snowdon guide’s house, and proceed to the
junction of the Drws y Coed road, near a small Bridge, about a quarter of
a mile beyond Quellyn Lake, and soon after arrive in view of Llynn Cader,
a small round pool on the right, respecting which the Welsh people relate
a ridiculous tale, that a gentleman’s hounds, in former days, started, on
a rock near this Lake, a strange kind of an animal (Aur Frychyn) with
tufts of hair shining like gold, nearly approaching, according to their
representation, to a species of Buffalo, and that he was pursued for some
time and killed, near a place called Nant y lle, and that he bellowed so
loud when taken that the rocks rent. After travelling about two miles,
we begin to descend towards Bethgelert, and observe, on the right, Moel
Hebog, a lofty conical Hill, which Lord Lyttleton ascended from Brynkir,
when he made the Tour of North Wales. Bethgelert is a neat little
village, in a romantic situation, between high mountains; here is a good
Inn, surrounded with thriving plantations, built about eighteen years
ago, by Thomas Jones, Esq. of Bryn Tirion, before mentioned. The Church
is small, and has been Conventual, belonging to a Priory of _Augustines_,
and dedicated to St. Mary. There is reason to suppose, says Mr. Pennant,
they might have been of that class which was called Gilbertines, and
consisted of both men and women, who lived under the same roof, but
strictly separated from each other by a wall; the cause of his suspicion
is a meadow, near the Church, called Dol y Lleian, the Nun’s meadow.
Bethgelert is supposed to be the most ancient foundation in the Country,
except Bardsey. Tanner ascribes it to our last Prince, but it must have
been long before his days, there being a recital of a Charter, for
certain Lands bestowed on it, by Llewelyn the Great, who began his reign
in 1194. It was favored, in the same manner, by other succeeding
Princes; David ap Llewelyn bestowed on it some Lands in Pennant
Gwernogan, belonging to Tudor ap Madoc, to which the Prince had no right;
this occasioned a suit between the sons of Tudor and Philipp, Prior of
the House, before William de Grandison, and R. de Stanedon, at
Caernarvon, when a verdict was given against the Convent. The Prior had
for his support the Grange of Llecheiddior, in Eifionydd, and part of a
mill; the Grange of Fentidillt, and Village of Gwehelyn; the Grange of
Tre’r Beirdd in Anglesey, one Plough Land, and a certain share of the
bees. The esteem which these insects were held in by the Ancient
Britons, on account of their producing the nectareous Mead, was so great,
that they considered them as created in Paradise, that when they quitted
it on the fall of man, they were blessed by God himself, and therefore no
Mass ought to be celebrated but by the light of their wax, as we read in
the laws of Howel Dda. The Prior had, besides, an allowance of fifty
cows and twenty-two sheep; the expences of the house must have been
considerable, for it was on the great road from England and South Wales
to North Wales, and from Ireland to England. In order to enable this
place to keep up its usual hospitality, after it had suffered in 1283, by
a casual fire, Edward 1st most munificently repaired all the damages; and
Bishop Anian, about the year 1286, for the encouragement of other
benefactors, remitted to all such who truly repented of their sins, forty
days of any penance inflicted on them. In 1535 it was bestowed by Henry
VIII. on the Abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey, and in 1537, it was given,
with the last, as an Appurtenance to that of Bisham, in Berkshire. On
the dissolution, the King gave to the family of the _Bodvels_, all the
Lands in Carnarvonshire, which belonged to this Priory, and all those in
Anglesey, to that of the Prydderchs, excepting the Township of Tre’r
Beirdd. The Revenues of Bethgelert were valued, by Dugdale, at Seventy
Pounds, Three Shillings and Eight-pence; by Speed, at Sixty-nine Pounds,
Three Shillings, and Eight-pence. Edward Conway is mentioned as last
Prior. There are no remains at present of the Convent.—Mr. Pennant had
in his possession a drawing of the Seal of the Priory, dated 1531; on it
was the figure of the Virgin and child, but no part of the Legend except
BETHKELE. Lewis Daron, a Bard of the 15th Century, in a Poem, (the
purport of which is to solicit David the Prior to bestow a fine bay
horse, then in his possession, on John Wynne, of Gwydir, Esq.) extols him
on account of his great learning and liberality.—Hence we are led to
suppose that this Monk was very opulent, and a popular character in his
time. The ground on the South side of the Church, seems to have been the
spot, says Mr. Williams, late of Llandegai, in his “Observations on the
Snowdon Mountain,” whereon stood the buildings which the Monks formerly
inhabited, and we may discover two or three arched doors, now closed up
on that side of the Church, through which these religious persons
probably entered, when they went to their devotions; there is likewise an
ancient Mansion House, near the Church, which probably was the habitation
of the Prior. In this house was shewn, some years ago, an old pewter
mug, which will contain two quarts, or more, and was called the
Bethgelert Pint, and any person who could grasp it in one hand, and drink
up the contents, (which was ale) at one draught, was entitled to the
liquor, _gratis_, and the tenant was to charge the value of it to the
Lord of the Manor, as part payment of his rent. At Bethgelert lie buried
two eminent Bards, Rhys Goch Eryri, and Dafydd Nanmor; the former died
about the year 1420, and it may be inferred, from his writings (many of
which are still extant) that he lived to the great age of 120. He was a
man of property, and lived at Hafod Garegog, situated beyond Pont
Aberglaslyn, on the road to Tan y Bwlch, and consequently in the County
of Merioneth, though within the limits of this Parish. The latter
resided at Nanmor, which is also a district of this Parish, on the same
side of the river. He died about A.D. 1460, and appears to have been a
person of some consequence; they were both learned men, (considering the
age they lived in) as their compositions abundantly testify.
To the N.E. of the village, is the entrance into the beautiful little
Vale of Nant Gwynant, which, though narrow at first, expands and unfolds
its beauties, as the traveller advances; this valley may be considered,
however, as consisting of two portions or divisions, separated by a
narrow defile; at the upper end of the lower vale is Llynn Dinas Emrys,
and just above it, commanding a delightful view of that Lake, the River,
the Woods, Mountains, &c. and particularly of Snowdon, is Plâs Gwynant,
the romantic Summer residence of D. Vaudrey, Esq. Just below this small
Lake, and nearly in the centre of the Vale, appears the famous Dinas
Emrys, which is a huge insulated rock, clothed with wood, and precipitous
on three sides; on the summit is a large area, but no remains of a
Castle. On the accessible side are three ramparts of stone, within which
is the ruin of a small stone building, about ten yards long, the walls
without any mortar. This place is from early times celebrated in British
story, for here
Prophetic Merlin sat, when to the British King,
The changes long to come, auspiciously he told.
The legend is thus told: when Vortigern found himself unable to contend
with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had, in the year 449, invited into
Britain, he determined, by the advice of his Magicians, on building an
impregnable fortress in Snowdon. He collected the materials, which all
disappeared in one night.—The Prince, astonished at this, convened again
his wise men, who assured him his building would never stand, unless it
was sprinkled with the blood of a child, born without the help of a
father; the Realm was ransacked,—at length, one of his emissaries
overheard some boys at play reproach another, and call him an unbegotten
knave. The child and his mother were brought before the King,—she
confessed he was the offspring of an Incubus. The boy, whose name was
Merlin, was ordered to be sacrificed, but on confounding all the
Magicians, with his questions, and explaining the cause of the
miscarriage, got his liberty, and
To that mighty King, who rashly undertook
A strong wall’d Tower to rear, those earthly spirits that shook
The great foundation still, in Dragon’s horrid shape
That dreaming wizzard told, making the mountain gape
With his most powerful charms, to view those caverns deep
And from the top of _Brith_, so high and wondrous steep,
Where Dinas Emrys stood, shewed where the serpent fought,
The white that tore the red, from whence the Prophet wrought
The Britons sad decay, then shortly to ensue.
The above is Drayton’s translation of the legend, in his Polyolbion.
Merlin, or Merddin Emrys, or Ambrosius, was in fact the son of a noble
Roman of the same name; his mother, a vestal, to save her life and honor,
invented the fable of his father, which was swallowed by the credulity of
the times. Merlin, or Myrddin, was an able Mathematician and Astronomer,
and deeply read in all the learning of his age. The vulgar, as usual,
ascribed all he did to the art of magic, and his discovery, that
Vortigern had begun to found his Castle on a Morass, was immediately said
to have been attended with most portentous circumstances; numbers of
Prophecies were attributed to him, the repetition of which is said to
have been forbidden, by the Council of Trent; however, since it is
certain that Vortigern, after his misfortunes, retired to the Snowdon
Hills, and died not very remote from them, it is possible he might have
selected this for his strong hold, as it is admirably adapted for that
purpose, and nearly fills the streight of the valley, and Merlin
Ambrosius might have given to it the name of Emris. A place close by,
styled Cell y Dewiniaid, or the Cell of the Diviners, allusive to the
Magicians of Vortigern’s Court, is another circumstance which favors the
history of this celebrated supposed Prophet, and not at a great distance,
are some large stones, which are called Beddau’r Dewiniaid, the Tombs of
the Magicians. There is a tradition also, that within this rock there is
a Cave, the mouth of which is now shut up, where Merddin concealed some
valuable articles, particularly a golden chair, lest they should fall
into the enemy’s hands. The upper Lake is called Llyn Gwynant,—the
distance between the two is something more than a mile, and near the road
are some beautiful thriving plantations, belonging to the Rev. H. Wynne
Jones, and Mr. Vaudrey, before mentioned. On the South side of the Upper
Lake, are the ruins of a small Chapel, called _Capel Nan’hwynen_, and it
would be a great convenience to the inhabitants if it were re-built, as
the distance from hence to Bethgelert is between three and four miles.
There is a tradition that _Madog_, the son of Prince Owen Gwynedd,
resided near this spot, for some time before he left his Country, and set
sail for America, and that he frequented this small Chapel, of which he
is supposed to have been the founder. Mr. Pennant pronounces this to be
the most beautiful Vale in _Snowdonia_, being guarded on each side by
vast Mountains, such as Crib Ddu, or part of Mynydd Nanmor; the Aran, on
the West, Lliwedd to the North; Dduallt and Wenallt, being about five
miles in extent, from its upper extremity to the Village of
Bethgelert,—and varied with woods, lakes, rivers, meadows, waterfalls,
and rocks of the most fantastic and picturesque appearance. The distance
from Bethgelert to Capel Curig is twelve miles, the latter part of which
is over an uninteresting mountain moor, or flat; it improves a little,
however, within a few miles of the last mentioned place, when we arrive
in view of the two Lakes, called Llyniau Mymbir. From Capel Curig to
Bettws y Coed, or Bettws wyrion Iddon, is five miles, along the new Irish
Road. About half way between these two places is the celebrated
Cataract, Rhaiadr y wennol, where the River Llugwy falls, with a
tremendous roar, over some steep lofty rocks, into a deep black chasm,
concealed by large oak, and dark overhanging woods. Considerable remains
of a large Roman building were discovered, some years ago, near this
spot, on the Estate of the Duke of Ancaster, at a place called Bryn y
Gefeiliau. “I distinctly traced,” says Mr. Lysons, “the walls of one
room, the dimensions of which were 60 feet by 20.” This neighbourhood is
supposed to have been much frequented by the Romans, on account of its
Slate Quarries, and valuable Lead and Copper Mines, and it is conjectured
that the Roman Road, from Pen y stryt, and Tommen y Mur, in the Parish of
Trawsfynydd, passed this way to _Conovium_, (Caer Rhun), as it has been
distinctly traced by the Church of Dolydd Helen, Cwm Pen nan’maen,
Pennant, Hafodty Dôl Camman, Llechwedd Bychan, Foel Fras, and above Hafod
Yspytty, &c.—Capel Curig is in the Parish of Llandegai, and was a Chapel
of ease to that Church and Llanllechid, but is now served with Dolydd
Helen; it is dedicated to a reputed saint of the name of Curig,
respecting whom, and some other begging Friars, these Welsh lines were
written:
Un o honynt, a ddygai
_Curig_ Lwyd, dan gwr ei glôg;
Gwas arall, a ddug Seiriol,
A naw o gaws yn ei gol.
A certain Friar, to increase his store
Beneath his cloak, grey Curig’s Image bore;
And, to protect good folks from nightly harm,
Another sells St. Seiriol as a charm.
It may reasonably be supposed that St. Curig resided for some time in
this sequestered spot, as we find many persons of eminence, in the fifth
and sixth Centuries, to have fled from the borders of Scotland, and other
parts of Great Britain, to the Mountains of Wales, to avoid the Saxon
sword. Any person who may be desirous of visiting the old British Castle
of Dolydd Helen, may take a guide from Capel Curig, and cross over near
the foot of that high mountain, Moel Siabod, often conspicuous from most
distant places. This fortress is situated on a high rock, precipitous on
one side and insulated; it consists of two square Towers, one forty feet
by twenty-five, the other thirty-one by twenty; each had formerly three
floors. This was founded by one of our Welsh Princes, but we are
ignorant of its origin.—Iorwerth Drwyn dwn (or with the broken nose) made
this place his residence, and here is said to have been born his son
_Llewelyn the Great_, who began his reign in the time of Richard the
first. Meredydd ap Ievan, before mentioned, and who was brought up at
Crug, near Carnarvon, and who was an ancestor of the Wynne’s of Gwydir,
in the reign of Henry VII. purchased the Lease of this Castle, and the
Inclosures belonging to it, from the Executors of Sir Ralph Berkenet, it
having been excepted among the places granted by Richard III. and resumed
by his successor. Before that time, Howel ap Evan ap Rhys Gethin, a
noted outlaw, resided here. As soon as it came into the possession of
Meredydd, he removed from his habitation in Eifionydd, (a hundred in the
County) to this Castle, giving this excellent reason: “I had rather fight
with outlaws and thieves, than with my own blood and kindred. If I live
in my own house in Eifionydd, I must either kill my own kinsmen, or be
killed by them.” The feuds among the principal gentlemen in Evionedd
occasioned perpetual murders, and Nant-Conwy was filled with banditti.
This gentleman soon reformed the Country; he established colonies of the
most tall and able men he could procure, till at last they amounted to
seven score tall bowmen, every one arrayed in a jacket or armolet coat, a
good steel cap, a short sword and dagger, together with his bow and
arrows; many of them also had horses, and chasing slaves, which were
ready to answer the cry on all occasions. He founded the strong house of
Pen nan’maen, a mile distant from the Castle. He removed the Church,
which before lay in a thicket, to a more open place, by way of security;
for he never dared to quit his house, without leaving in it a strong
guard, and another of twenty tall Archers to attend him, whenever he went
to Church, besides a watchman, on a rock called Carreg y Bîg, to give
notice of the approach of the banditti.—He ended his useful life in 1525,
and left behind him twenty-three legitimate, and three natural
children.—The Church had been an impropriation of the Abbey of
Beddgelert; it is very small, and has in it a monument commemorating such
of the family as were buried in it. After proceeding so far, many
persons may feel inclined to visit Llanrwst, the rout to which we have
before described, not only on account of its celebrated Bridge, built by
Inigo Jones, but in order to visit the ancient Monuments within the
Gwydir Chapel, of which a most correct and beautiful view has lately been
given to the public, by Mr. H. Hughes, of Llan Saint Ffraid, Glann Conwy,
who is now publishing the Beauties of Cambria, and, as a native artist of
genius and merit, deserves the countenance and support of every friend to
his country.
We shall now return to the Village of Bethgelert, and proceed from thence
to the celebrated Pont Aberglaslyn, by some called (though very
improperly) the Devil’s Bridge, {149} about a mile distant; the first
part of the road is through some thriving plantations, afterwards along
the Banks of the River, when in a short time the mountains approach so
close, as to leave only room for the furious torrent to roll over its
stony bed, above which is a narrow road, formed with incredible labour,
impending over the water; the scenery is the most magnificent that can be
imagined: the mountains rise to very uncommon height, and oppose to us
nothing but a broken series of precipices, one above the other, as high
as the eye can reach. Here is very little appearance of vegetation, yet
there are small patches here and there, sufficient to tempt the poor goat
to its destruction, for it will sometimes leap down to an alluring tuft
of verdure, where, without possibility of return, it must remain to
perish, after it has finished the dear-bought repast. The Bridge
terminates the pass, and consists of a single Arch over a deep chasm, and
supported on each side by a projecting rock,—above is a small cataract,
where the traveller at times may have much amusement, in observing the
Salmon, in great numbers, make their efforts to surmount the heights.
Here had been a Royal weir, in the Reign of Henry IV. which was then
rented by Robert ap Meredydd. It probably belonged, in old times, to our
natural Princes, for it seems to have been a most valuable privilege, as
we read that young Prince Elphin was endowed with one by his Royal
Father; and the celebrated Bard Taliesin, wrote a Poem to console him on
his disappointment in finding one morning an empty weir, which probably
in those times was very seldom the case:
Elphin deg, taw ath wylo
Na chabled neb yr eiddo
Ni wna les drwg obeithio, &c.
Elphin, fair as roseate morn,
Cease o lovely youth to mourn &c.
_See Pennant’s Tour_.
Not far from this Bridge is shewn a stone, by the road side, called Rhys
Goch o Eryri’s chair, where it is said he used to sit and compose his
Poems; and not far from Meillionen, in this Parish, was discovered in
1784, a curious Shield; supposed to be British. There is an excellent
road from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tremadoc, along the Western Banks of the
Glaslyn, the distance about five miles; as also over the Bridge to Tan y
Bwlch and Festiniog, which is about seven or eight.
We shall now return once more to Carnarvon, and proceed nearly along the
Sea Coast, round the Promontory of Lleyn.—We have already conducted the
stranger as far as the small Bridge (Pont Afon Rhyd), where the road
branches off for Llanllyfni; having proceeded about a mile further,
observe on the right Mount Hazel, the seat of the Rev. Glynne Bodvel
Lewis, and between it and the sea Llandwrog Church, where there are
several handsome Monuments, to the memory of the Wynne’s of Glynn Llivon,
particularly that of Sir John Wynn, (grandfather of the present Lord
Newborough,) who built that house, which is now much neglected, and
greatly out of repair, owing to the minority of the proprietor. Glynn is
on the left of the road, and near the little river Llifon, issuing from
the Cilgwyn Mountains. _Cilmin_ Droed-ddu, or Kilmin with the _black
foot_, one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, and nephew to Merfryn
Frych, Prince of Wales, slain 841, was the founder of this family, and is
said to have had his residence near this spot; they bear, in allusion to
the name of their Ancestor, a man’s leg _coupe a la cuisse_, sable: he is
said to have injured his leg in some dangerous encounter, and that it
became discoloured, and that he continued lame in consequence of this
unfortunate circumstance. Glynn Llifon came into possession of the late
Sir John Wynn, by the marriage of his father, Thomas Wynn, Esq. of
Boduan, in Lleyn, with Frances, second daughter to John Glynn, Esq. of
Glynn Llifon.—The Glynns of Lleiar, and Plas Newydd, near Glynn Llifon,
were branches of this family: the latter afterwards became the property
of the Owens of Bodowen, in Anglesey. The principal Roman encampment, in
this neighbourhood, is Dinas Dinlle, situated upon the verge of the Irish
Channel, and almost in the centre of Carnarvon Bay; the Western part of
it is washed by all the higher tides, and it is not more than ten or
fifteen yards above the sea at any other time; it not only commands the
Bay itself, its Creeks and Harbours, but has also a boundless prospect
towards the Main Ocean, or Irish Channel, anciently called Mare
Vergivium, and in Welsh, Môr Werydd, insomuch that no Vessel can pass to
the Southward, without being observed by those who keep a good look out
at their station. The following Roman and British Posts and Encampments,
being not far distant from the road, may be conveniently visited by the
curious Tourist, as he proceeds on his journey.—Many of them appear to
have been out-posts and appendages to the principal _Dinas’s_, and to
have had a regular connection and communication with _Segontium_:
1. Dinas Dinoethwy, near Pont Newydd, now the residence of Captain
Jones.—Length, 180 paces; Breadth, 60; South side slope, 20; North ditto,
30.
2. Hen Gastell, on the brook Carrog, half a mile South of the above, and
in the Parish of Llanwnda.—Length, 40 paces; Breadth 30.
3. Dinas Efrog, or Franog, near Collfryn, in Llandwrog.—Length, 70
paces; Breadth, 30.
4. Dinas y Prif, hot far distant from the last, a Square Fort, 50 yards
by 50.
5. Craig y Ddinas, a considerable Fortification, on the River Llyfni, a
little to the N.W. of Lleiar.—Length, from N. to S. 120 yards; Ditto from
E. to W. 90 yards; Slope of the Inner Rampart, on the North side, 10
yards; Ditto of the Outer ditto, 8 yards; Slope on the Sooth side, 40
yards.
6. Caer Ffridd, a Stone Fort, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog, not far from Glynn.
7. Bwlan, a fortified eminence, near the same place.
8. Brynn y Gorseddau, an eminence where there are some Druidical
Remains.
9. Carnedd Angharad, a Grave in Glynn Park, North of the house.
10. Bedd Gwennen, another Grave, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog.
11. Bettws Gwenrhyw, the ruins of an old family Chapel, belonging to
Glynn.
12. Muriau Gwilym Ddu, on Tyddyn Tudur Land, the ruins of the habitation
of the old Bard of that name.
13. Talwrn yr Arch, on Bodaden Land, and behind that house, on Rhos
Tryfan Common, were visible, some years ago, several detached parts of an
old Roman Road.
Llandwrog is a large extensive Parish, and contains about 10,000 Acres of
Land; the resident population, in 1801, was 1175. The Church is
dedicated to St. Twrog; it is a Rectory, in the patronage of the Bishop,
and is valued in the King’s Books at £11. 11_s._ 5½_d._—Dinas Dinlle is
in this Parish, the Roman Road from which to Segontium, is uncommonly
interesting, as it is carried chiefly over a flat marsh, once a morass,
and broken only in one part by a river, the ford over which is at this
day called _Rhyd y Pedestri_; but Rhyd y Equestri, which is mentioned Mr.
Rowlands, in his History of Anglesey, is now scarcely known.—Many Roman
Coins have been discovered here, particularly those of the Emperors
GALLIENUS, TETRICUS SENIOR, TETRICUS CÆSAR, CARAUSIUS, and ALECTUS.
After passing Glynn, we cross the Llifon, and about two miles further the
Llyfni, a rapid Stream, flowing out of Llynn Nanlle, and soon afterwards
arrive at CLYNNOG, a neat pleasant Village, beautifully situated on a
plain, near the Sea shore. There is a very handsome venerable looking
old Church, which has greatly the appearance of a Cathedral; it is built
in form of a cross: the length, from East to West, is about one hundred
and thirty-eight feet, and from North to South, seventy. Near the Altar
are three neat Stalls, divided by pillars supporting Gothic Arches, the
seats of the officiating Priests;—the Monuments are not numerous, there
is one however to William Glynn de Lleiar, with his figure and those of
his wife and seven children, another to his son in law George Twisleton,
Esq. of _Aula Barrow_ in Yorkshire, and in right of his wife of Lleiar;
he is generally supposed to be the same with _Colonel_ Twisleton, who was
an active officer under Cromwell, and took the gallant Sir John Owen, of
Clenenney, prisoner.—Adjoining to the Church, is the Chapel of St. Beuno;
the passage to it is a narrow vault, covered with large flat stones, and
of far greater antiquity than either Church, or Chapel, which seem nearly
coeval. The reader will not be displeased to see the following extract
from Leland, respecting this venerable old Fabrick:—“Clunnock Vawr, yn
Arvon, in the Commot of Uwch Gurvay, is a great Parish, and the fairest
Church in all Caernarvonshire, and is better than Bangor, is 15 miles
beyond it, and about the same distance as that town from the
shore.—Clunnock Vawr was some time a Monastery of White Monks, suppressed
many years ago, but the original of this Monastery was by St. Beuno, of
whom mention is made in St. Winifrede’s Life. The White Monks were of a
newer foundation. Gwytheint, uncle to one of the Princes of North Wales,
was the first giver of Clunnock Village and place to Benow. The Church
that is now there, with cross isles, is almost as big as St. David’s, but
it is of a new work; the old Church, where St. Benow lieth, is hard by
the new.” The Chapel was probably built after Leland had visited the
place, in the room of the old Church, which might have fallen to ruin.
In the middle of the Chapel was the tomb of the Saint, plain and altar
shaped, but it was in a great measure demolished, about 20 years ago,
when some workmen were employed by the late Lord Newborough, to dig in
search of the Saint’s bones. Votaries were wont to have great faith in
him, and did not doubt but that by means of a night’s lodging on his
tomb, a cure would be found for all diseases; it was customary to cover
it with rushes, and leave on it till morning sick children, after making
them first undergo ablution, in the neighbouring holy well. St. Beuno,
after he had assumed the Monastic habit, founded a Convent here in
616.—Cadvan, King of North Wales, was his great Patron, and promised him
much Land; his son, Cadwallon, performed the promise, and received from
the Saint a golden Sceptre, worth Sixty Cows; the land was afterwards
claimed, in behalf of a little infant, and his title proved good,—the
King refuses either to give other Land in lieu, or to resign the present,
Beuno cursed him and went away, but was appeased by Gwrddeint, first
cousin to the King, who overtook him, and gave the Town of Celynnog, for
ever, to God and St. Beuno, for his soul’s sake, and that of the wicked
Cadwallon. Long after his time, the Carmelites, or White Monks, had here
an establishment; they were however suppressed, sometime before the
Lincoln Taxation, in the year 1291, as the Church was then Collegiate,
consisting of five portionists or prebendaries, and it so continued to
the Dissolution. The Rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £24. is
annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the Vicarage, which
is discharged, and valued at £6. is in the gift of the Bishop; here is an
excellent Vicarage House, built by the late Vicar, the Rev. John
Williams. Under the article Tiboeth, in Dr. Davies’s Welsh-Latin and
Latin-Welsh Dictionary, we have an account of a curious old M.S.: which
was preserved in this Church, called _Llyfr Beuno_ Sant, said to have
been written by Twrog, and seen here by Dr. Thomas Williams, of Trefriw,
in 1594.—This curious Relic, which has been missing many years, is said
to have been discovered lately by Mr. Edward Williams, (alias _Iolo
Morganwg_).—There is a tradition, that an Ancient British Town, situated
near this place, called _Caer Arianrhod_, was swallowed up by the Sea,
the ruins of which, it is said, are still visible, during neap tides, and
in fine weather. Many of the Kings, and principal inhabitants of the
Country, appear to have been benefactors to the original religious
establishment at this place: Cadwalader gave Grayanog,—Tegwared gave
Porthamel,—Cadell bestowed Kilcourt,—Prince Mervin, Carnguwch,—Cadwgan ap
Cynfelyn, Bodweiliog and Bodvel, in Lleyn,—Idwal endowed it with Penrhos
and Clynnog Fechan, in Anglesey, and many others, which may be seen in
Dugdale.—The offerings of calves and lambs, which happen to be born with
the NÔD BEUNO, mark of St. Beuno, (a certain natural mark in the ear,)
have now nearly ceased; they used to be brought to the Church on Trinity
Sunday, the anniversary of the Saint, and delivered to the Church
Wardens, who were accustomed to sell and account for them, and put the
value into a great Chest, called _Cyff Beuno_, made of one piece of oak,
secured with three locks, from which circumstance the Welsh in these
parts have a proverb, for attempting any difficult thing, “you may as
well try to break St. Beuno’s Chest.” The little money resulting from
the sacred Beasts, or casual offerings, were either applied to the relief
of the poor, or in aid of repairs. There is a curious antique Chalice,
preserved amongst the Communion Plate, with the following Inscription, on
the lid or cover:
Tu Nazarenus Rex Judeorum
Fili Dei, miserere mei.
Those who are curious in Druidical Antiquities, may see a very uncommon
Cromlech, on the Tenement of Bachwen, about half a mile from this place,
between the road and the sea. The inclination of the upper stone is to
the West, on its surface are numbers of small shallow holes, with two or
three larger than the rest, possibly for some purpose of augury; at
thirty paces distance, is an upright stone, placed, as is supposed, to
mark the limits of approach to the people, while the rites were
performing by the _Druid Priest_. On the left, as we proceed towards the
pass or defile, between the mountains, are two lofty conical hills,
called Gern Goch, and Gern Ddu; and, on the right, are those well known
by the name of Rivals (yr Eifl {159}). This Bwlch, or Pass, now called
Bwlch Llanaelhaiarn, is supposed to be the ancient Bwlch Dau Fynydd,
frequently mentioned as the scene of many a bloody battle. Near this
small Church we quit the Pwllheli road, and turn to the right towards
Nevin; but before we leave this celebrated mountain, we shall take an
opportunity of examining Tre’r Ceiri and Vortigern’s Valley; of both
which we have a long, interesting, and circumstantial account in
Pennant’s Tour.—It is very probable that the Districts of Lleyn and
Eifionydd, served as a secure retreat to the Britons in ancient times, as
most of the hills and eminences in both are strongly fortified, the names
of some of which are subjoined: Carn Madryn and Carn Boduan,—Moel Garn
Guwch,—The Rivals, Tre’r Ceiri,—Moel Ben Tyrch, between that and
Penmorva,—Gaer Tyddyn Mawr,—Castell Gwgan, remarkable for a small
circular entrenchment; and Pen y Gaer.—To these many others might be
added, but we are reminded that neither our confined limits nor the
nature of the work, will admit of very detailed or circumstantial
descriptions of either these or any other ancient fortifications, we can
therefore only touch on these subjects very superficially, and throw out
a few hints as we proceed along.
TRE’R CEIRI.—Across a hollow, from one summit of the Rivals (Eifl) to the
other, extends an immense rampart of stones, or perhaps the ruins of a
wall, which effectually block up the pass; and near this place, on the
summit of these hills, is a most perfect and regularly fortified British
Post, called Tre’r Caerau, the Town of Fortresses, or perhaps Tre’r
Ceiri, the Town of the Giants. The most accessible side is defended by
three walls; the lowest is very imperfect, the next tolerably entire, and
has in it the grand entrance; this wall, in one part, points upwards
towards the third, and runs round the edges of the top of the hill; the
second wall unites with the first, which runs into a point, reverts and
joins the highest, in a place where the hill becomes inaccessible: the
facing on the two upper walls are very entire, especially that of the
uppermost; they are lofty, and exhibit from below a grand and extensive
front; the space on the top is an irregular area, part is steep and part
flat, and is covered with heath, which affords shelter to a few red
grouse;—the whole is almost filled with cells.—To be seen with advantage,
the station should be taken from the summit, about which the cells (which
are the foundations of the huts of the soldiers,) are very distinct, and
disposed with much art: about the middle is a square place, fenced with
stores, a sort of _Prætorium_, surrounded with two rows of cells; numbers
are also scattered about the plain, and others again are contiguous to
the wall, all along the inside. The fortifications on Pen-maen-mawr bear
a great similarity to the mode of defence adopted on this strong Post.
The cells are mostly perfect, of various forms, round, oval, oblong, and
square; some of the round are fifteen feet in diameter, of the oblong,
thirty feet in length, with long entrances, regularly faced with stone;
all of them, when inhabited, were no doubt well protected from the
weather, by roofs covered with thatch and sod. The upper wall was in
many places fifteen feet high on the outside, and often sixteen feet
broad; it consisted of two parallel and contiguous parts, one higher than
the other, serving as a parapet to the lower, which seemed to have its
walk, like that at Chester; there was in one place a cell in the
thickness of the wall, or perhaps a sally port, in part stopped by the
falling in of the stones. There is an excellent plan of this encampment
in Mr. Pennant’s Tour. We shall now descend from these elevated summits,
in order to visit Nant Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigern’s Valley, where that
Prince is said to have fled from the rage of his subjects, and where it
was said he and his Castle were consumed with lightning. His life had
been profligate, the Monks therefore were determined that he should not
die the common death of all men, and accordingly made him perish with
signal marks of the vengeance of Heaven. Fancy cannot frame a place more
fit for a retreat from the knowledge of mankind, or more apt to inspire
one with full hopes of security from any pursuit.—Embosomed in a lofty
mountain, on two sides bounded by stony steeps, on which no vegetables
appear, but the blasted heath and stunted gorse; the third side exhibits
a most tremendous front of black precipice, with the loftiest peak of the
mountain _Eifl_ soaring above, and the only opening to this secluded spot
is towards the sea, a northern aspect; the Glenn is tenanted by a few
families, who raise oats, and keep a few cattle, sheep, and goats. Just
above the sea is a high and verdant mount, natural, but the top and sides
fortified by art; on this might have been the residence of the
unfortunate Prince, of which time has destroyed every other vestige.
Till the beginning of the last century, a _tumulus_ of stone within, and
externally covered with turf, was to be seen here; it was known by the
name of _Bedd Gwrtheyrn_, tradition having regularly delivered down the
report of this having been the place of his interment. The inhabitants
of the Parish dug into the _Carn_, and found in it a stone Coffin,
containing the bones of a tall man. This gives a degree of credibility
to the tradition, especially as no other bones were found with it, no
other _tumuli_ on the spot; a proof at least of respect to the rank of
the person; and that the place was deserted after the death of the Royal
Fugitive, about the year 465. Craig y Llam, near this place, is a
tremendous lofty precipice, impending over the sea, and frequented in the
summer season by numerous flocks of migratory birds, where their nests
are ranged in regular tiers, on the ledges of this singular rock, in the
same manner as at Gogarth, near Conway before-mentioned; underneath is a
curious cave, accessible only by water, and visited in fine weather by
different parties of pleasure, who bring their provisions along with
them, and dine in the recesses of the Cliff.
From hence we descend again to the road, pass by Pistill, a little
Chapel, annexed to Edern, and soon arrive at NEVIN, a small Town, and
Contributory Borough to Carnarvon; this place was bestowed on _Nigel de
Lohareyn_, by the Black Prince, in the twelfth year of his Principality,
and made a free borough, was allowed a Guild Mercatory with every
privilege attendant on other free Boroughs, and all the liberties and
Customs granted heretofore to that of Newborough, in Anglesey. He also
gave it a grant of two Fairs, annually, and a Market on a Sunday, to
which the Inhabitants of the Commot of Dinlleyn, were obliged to resort.
Here Edward the First, in 1284, held his triumph on the conquest of
Wales, and perhaps to conciliate the affections of his new subjects, in
imitation of our Hero Arthur, held a round table, and celebrated it with
dance and tournament,
Where throngs of Knights and Barons bold,
In weeds of Peace, high triumphs hold;
With store of Ladies, whose bright eyes
Reign influence, and judge the prize
Of wit or arms, while both contend
To win her grace whom all commend.
The concourse was prodigious, for not only the chief Nobility of England,
but numbers from foreign parts graced the festival with their presence.
The Gauls, as we are informed, sat at their round tables, to destroy all
dispute about precedence; and every Knight had at his back a Squire with
his Armour, in waiting. The Market is on Saturday, and the Fairs are
holden on the fourth of April, Saturday before Whitsuntide, 25th of
August, and 18th of September. The Church is dedicated to St. Mary; it
is a discharged Rectory and Vicarage, valued in the King’s Books at £2.
13_s._ 4_d._ and is in the patronage of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. of
Cefn Amwlch. Nevin is situated upon the Irish Channel, and has a small
Pier, which is found to be very useful for the Herring Fishery, by which
the Inhabitants principally subsist. The Herrings, about the year 1771,
were taken here is vast abundance, from Perth Ysgadan, or the Port of
Herrings, to Bardsey Island, and all along this coast; the capture
amounted usually to the value of about four thousand pounds. These
desultory fish, says Mr. Pennant, about the period above-mentioned,
appeared in July and went away in October; in earlier times, they came in
September and disappeared in November; _Dories_ are also often taken
here: the fishermen, till within these last 20 years, were wont to fling
them away, on account of their ugly appearance, however they at last
discovered that they were accounted a great luxury. Crabs and Lobsters
are also taken on this Coast, in great abundance, particularly about
Bardsey, and are conveyed to the Liverpool Market. After quitting the
small poor town of Nevin, we soon arrive at Porth Dinlleyn, near which is
a Dinas, or fortified eminence, which probably gave name not only to this
excellent harbour, but also to the Commot in which it is situated. An
attempt was made some years ago, by W. A. Madocks, Esq. and some other
gentlemen, to establish a regular communication between this place and
Ireland, and for that purpose, a new road was made from hence to
Tremadoc, and considerable sums of money were expended in erecting a
breakwater or pier-head here, building a new Inn, &c. in hopes that
Government would be prevailed upon to give this harbour the preference,
and bring the Packets here from Holyhead, and consequently that the Mail
Coaches would run this road; however, this plan, for some reasons not
known to the writer, did not succeed. From hence, Garn Madryn, and Garn
Beduan Hills make a very conspicuous appearance, near the former of which
is the seat of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. and not far from the latter is the
Church and Parish of that name, and the neglected seat of the Wynne’s,
ancestors of Lord Newborough. We then pass through the small Village of
Edeyrn or Edern; the living is a Rectory, in the gift of the Bishop,
valued in the King’s Books at £8. 5_s._ the Church is dedicated to St.
Edern. The distance from hence to Tydweiliog, the next little village,
is about three or four miles, this is a small perpetual Curacy, Church
dedicated to St. Gwyfen, a female Saint, whose festival is on the 3d of
June. Not far distant from hence, on the left of the road, are two old
Family Seats; the first is Brynodol, the property of J. Griffith, of
Llanfair, Esq. here it seems Mr. Pennant was most hospitably entertained,
by his friend the late Hugh Griffith, Esq. (father of the last-mentioned
gentleman), when he made the Tour of this part of the County. Brynodol,
by advantage of situation on the side of a hill, commands a vast view of
a flat woodless tract, the sea, and a noble mass of mountains: The Eifl
hills, Garn Boduan, and the huge Garn Madryn rise in the fore-ground, and
beyond these soars all Snowdonia, from those Alps which surround the
Wyddfa, to the most remote in the County of Merioneth. The other is
Cefnamwlch, now the property of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. and many years
ago the occasional residence of John Griffith, of Voelas, Esq. a
gentleman whose family, as well as that of Brynnodol, claim descent from
the Princes of Wales. From Tudweiliog to Aberdaron the distance is about
eight miles, over the Common of Rhôs Hirwen, and a flat uninteresting
Country; during this latter part of the journey, the road passes within a
short distance of several small Churches, such as Penllech and Llan
Gwnadle on the right; and Meyllteyrn and Bryncroes on the left: near this
extremity of the Promontory, are also the ruins of several little
Chapels, such as Eglwys Fair, Capel Anelog, Capel Odo, Capel Bodferyn,
Capel Cwm Dylif, &c. which proves that this part of the main land (as
well as the Island of Bardsey) was the retreat of numerous recluses and
devotees, in ancient times.—At Llan Gwnadl (alias Gwynhoydyl) is the
following inscription: S. GWYNHOYDYL IACIT HIC 750: & HÆC ÆDES ÆDIFICATA
&c. On the sea coast are several small Creeks, useful to the fishermen,
who find in them during the Herring fishery, a safe retreat from storms;
the names of some of which we shall here introduce Porth Towyn, Porth
Colman, Porth Gwylan, Porth Ysgadan, Porth Cadlan, (or Cadfan), Porth
Llywennan, Porth Orion, Porth Iago, Porth Feryn, Porth Neudwy, (or
Meudwy) Porth Samddai, &c. At a place called Hen Fonwent, not far from
the ruins of an old town, Tre Dindywydd, in the parish of Bryn croes,
several earthen pots and urns were discovered some years ago, containing
ashes and human bones; and near Ty Engion, an old stone altar was found,
called Cerrig Inco, and another near Monachdy, in the same Parish; and a
stone Coffin, (Cistfaen) on Ty mawr Farm, near the same place. There are
also several British encampments in this neighbourhood, viz. Castell
Caeron, on Mynydd y Rhiw mountain; Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum; and two
on Mynydd Cilan, in the parish of Llan Engan. Several eminences bear the
name of Pen yr Orsedd, i.e. the Throne, or Seat of Judicature, two of
these are not far distant from Nevin; and near Cefnamwlch is a Cromlech,
called Coetan Arthur. The following wells may also be mentioned as
remarkable, on account of their bearing the names of British Saints; viz.
Ffynnon Saint, Ffynnon Ddurdan, Ffynnon Cefn Llaethfaen, Ffynnon Eliw, in
the Parish of Rhiw; Ffynnon Garmon, in Aberdaron, and Ffynnon Lleuddad,
in Bryncroes.
Aberdaron is a small fishing Village, situated on a sandy Bay, at the
extremity of the Promontory of Lleyn (_Langanum Promontorium_); the mouth
of the Bay is protected by two little Islands, called _Ynys Gwylan_; it
takes its name from the rivulet _Daron_, which here empties itself into
the sea; the inhabitants are mostly fishermen. The Church, which
consists of two aisles, supported by four handsome pillars, is dedicated
to St. Hoywyn; it was a sanctuary, and much frequented by pilgrims;
Leland says it was called Llan Engan Frenin, (_Fanum Niniani Reguli_),
but it is very probable, that the transcribers of his work must have made
a mistake, as _Llan Engan_ is seven or eight miles distant, on the road
to Pwllhely, and where there is a very curious inscription on the
Steeple, copied and explained by Mr. Rowlands. The Rectorial Tithes
belong to St. John’s College, Cambridge; the Vicarage is in the patronage
of the Bishop. This and Porth Meudwy, (a small Creek near it) were the
places where Devotees, in former times, usually embarked for Bardsey
(Enlli), and the curious stranger, who may wish to visit that Island, can
easily procure a boat here, but before he sets sail he should examine the
ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel (Capel Fair), and also our Lady’s Cave and
Well, (Ogof Mair a Ffynnon Fair,) the former is situated in a small
plain, between two hills, Uwch Mynydd a Mynydd y Gwyddel, and the latter
not far distant, nearly at the foot of a dreadful precipice called Maen
Melyn, and from which, no doubt, this Commot (Cwmmwd-maen) takes its
name. There is a most hazardous and circuitous path, down to the Cave
and Well, along which Devotees frequently descended in former days, and
even at the present time many are induced to visit the spot from
curiosity. Maen Melyn is a yellow rock, streaked with white veins, in
the middle of a black precipice, and at a distance has much the
appearance of a large dog or leopard. In the dark ages of Popish
Superstition it was supposed that if a person could descend by this path,
and bring up a mouthful of water from the well, his wish would be
certainly fulfilled; the Cape, at the end of the Promontory is called
_Penyccil_, and the ridge of hills Braich y pwll. This Chapel was placed
here, in all probability, to give the seamen an opportunity of invoking
the tutelar Saint for protection through this dangerous Sound.
The Convent at Bardsey (Enlli) was one of the most ancient religious
Institutions in North Wales, for Eineon Frenin, one of the Regnli of the
County is said, in conjunction with Emyr Llydaw, to have founded a
College in that Island, about the middle of the 9th Century, and Lleudad
(Landatus) is generally supposed to have been the first Abbot. Dufrig,
(Dubritius) Archbishop of Caerleon, is represented in our Welsh Annals to
have resigned in favour of St. David’s, and to have retired to Bardsey,
where he died about the year 612, from which circumstance, it is evident
that there must have been a religious establishment here prior to that
period. It seems likely to have been a seat of the _Culdees_, or
_Colidei_, the first religious recluses of Great Britain, who sought
Islands and desert places, in which they might in security worship the
true God. It was certainly resorted to in very early times, for we are
assured, from undoubted authority, that it flourished as a Convent in the
days of _Cadvan_, King of Britain, who was coeval with Dubritius, it was
an Abbey, dedicated to St. Mary, and in the _Sebright_ MSS. a petition is
recorded, says Mr. Pennant, from the Abbot to Edward II. in which he sets
forth the injuries he had received from the Sheriff of Carnarvon, who had
extorted from him 68_s._ 6_d._ contrary to his Deed of ffeoffment, on
which the King directed Roger de Mortimer, Justiciary of Wales, to make
enquiry into the matter, who reported that the Abbot held his Lands, in
the County of Carnarvon, in puram et perpetuam elemosynam, without any
service or secular acknowledgment; and further, that David, Lord of
Lleyn, and brother to the last Prince of Wales, had exacted the same sum,
as did his _Pencynydd_, or Master of his Dogs, possibly under pretence of
maintaining them; the King therefore, by his special favor, and by advice
of his Council, does for ever remit the said sum and all arrears, and
directs that no one in future, either on his account or that of his
heirs, ever should molest the Convent. The slaughter of the Monks, at
Bangor Iscoed, about the year 607, is supposed to have contributed to the
population of this Island, for not only the brethren who escaped, but
numbers of other pious Britons fled hither, to avoid the rage of the
Saxons.
There is a most curious, though superstitious document, still extant,
written in Latin, in which it is asserted, that in consequence of the
prayers of Holy Lleudad (Sanctus Laudatus) one of the first Abbots, and
in consideration of the good and pious lives of the first Members of this
Convent, the Almighty granted them the strange and uncommon privilege of
departing out of this mortal life by seniority, so that like grapes in
the vintage, (as it is there expressed) the most ripe (i.e. the eldest)
was cut down first; and that this continued to be the case for many
years, until these once Holy Brethren became again degenerated, and
relapsed into various sins and vices, so that the Almighty was incensed
against them, and summoned them hence, like the rest of mankind, without
any respect to age or seniority.—This may serve as a specimen of the
numerous tales and legends, invented by these and other idle and bigotted
Monks.
This small Island, according to the Welsh History, afforded _asylum_,
during life, to twenty thousand reputed Saints, and, after death, graves
to as many of their bodies; well therefore might it be called _Insula
Sanctorum_, Isle of Saints; but, with Dr. Fuller, it must be observed,
that it would be much easier to find graves in Bardsey, for so many
Saints, than Saints for so many graves.—Nine hundred of these Devotees
are said to have fled hither from the Massacre of the Monks, at Bangor
Iscoed, in Flintshire.
The following are the names of some of the first Abbots, and reputed
Saints, who are said to have been buried there:
1. Lleudad, (Laudatus) the first Abbot.
2. Dufrig, (Dubricius) once Arch Bishop of Caerlleon ar Wysg, or
Llandaf.
3. St. David, who retired hither from the Synod of Brevi, (Llan Ddewi
Brefi).
4. Cadvan, who came to Wales from Llydaw, or Armorica, attended by the
following persons: Padarn, Hywyn, Sulien, Tanwg, Tydecho, Tecwyn, and
many others.
5. Dewrdan, or Dwrdan, from whom Bodwrda, in this neighbourhood is
supposed to have been so called, or from Cowrda, to whom Abererch Church
is dedicated.
6. Daniel, first Bishop of Bangor.
7. Beuno, to whom Clynnog Fawr is dedicated.
8. Myrddin ap Morfryn, (or Merlinus Caledonius or Sylvestris).
9. Hywyn ap Gwnda Hên, Steward to Cadvan, and to the Saints at Bardsey.
10. Dervel, to whom Llan Dderfel in Merionethshire is dedicated.
11. Eineon, or Engan Frenin, King of Lleyn.
12. Cawrdaf St. at Abererch.
13. Cadwallawn ap Owen Gwynedd, Abbot in the year 1169.
14. Thomas ap Griffith Nicholas, of Dinevor, in South Wales, who was
killed in a Duel at Penal, in Merionethshire, was buried here.
15. Griffith ap Thomas, nephew of Griffith ap Nicholas, was interred
here.
16. Hugh ap Richard ap Sion ap Madog, of Bodwrda, was buried here, in
the time of Queen Elizabeth.—See William Lleyn’s Elegy on his Death.
This little Inland, at present contains about twelve or fifteen houses,
and about sixty or seventy inhabitants, who are mostly fishermen.—It
produces very good barley, and round its coast are great plenty of fish,
and abundance of Lobsters, which are mostly sent (as before observed) to
the Liverpool Market.
The revenues of the Monastery, at the general Dissolution, amounted,
according to Dugdale, to £46. 1s. 4d. Tradition says, that Aberdaron,
Bryn-croes, and Nevin, originally belonged to Bardsey, but at present the
Tythes of those three Parishes, are the property of the Cefn Amwlch
Family; and it is very probable that one of their ancestors purchased
them of the King (Henry VIII.) or his Ministers at that time. This
Island was granted by Edward VI. to his Uncle, Sir T. Seymour, and
afterwards to John, Earl of Warwick; and the present proprietor’s father
purchased it from Dr. Wilson of Newark. A tenement, called Court, in the
Parish of Aberdaron, originally belonged to Bardsey, and was granted and
purchased with the Inland, as before described. Part of Lleyn is to this
day, called the Lordship or Manor of Bardsey, and a kind of Leet Court is
still held, occasionally, either at Aberdaron, Bryncroes or Tydweiliog,
which is called the Court of the Lord of the Manor of Bardsey. The
present Lord of the Manor is the Marquis of Anglesey; there are also a
Recorder, Bailiff and Constable, attached to this Lordship. The Court
was probably held, formerly, at the above-mentioned Farm, which still
bears the name of Court; and not far off is another place, called _Secar_
(Exchequer), and it seems there was a prison or gaol there, for near it
is a hill, called Brynn y Grogbren, or Gallows Hill.—In general, when any
of the Inhabitants die, they are brought to Aberdaron for interment; but
in very stormy weather, the corpse is buried in the old Abbey Church
yard, and the person who is best qualified reads the funeral service.
Many years ago, when some of the Inhabitants had been to a Mill at
Aberdaron, a great tempest arose on their return, and they were blown to
the Coast of Cardiganshire, and landed in safety. A Light House is very
much wanted on this Island, as, for want of such an object to direct
them, Vessels are driven on Sarn Badrig-Goffrydiau-Caswennan, and other
dangerous rocks, and many lives lost every year. We are happy to add,
that such a building is at present in contemplation. There are several
Welsh Poems still extant, addressed to some of the Abbots.—Not far from
hence is Carreg, the seat of Robert Thomas Carreg, Esq. now resident at
Cefn mine.
The distance from Aberdaron to Pwllheli is about twenty miles; the road
along the sea coast by Llanfaelrhys, Rhiw, Llandegwnning, Llan Engan, and
Llanbedrog, is the most interesting.—On a part of the Promontory, called
_Penrhyn Du_, in former years, have been considerable adventurers for
Lead Ore, and attempts to drain the mines, by means of a fire Engine, but
the expences proved to exceed the profits.—The dangerous Bay, between
Rhiw Mountain (Mynydd y Rhiw) and Penrhyn Du, is called by the Sailors
Hell’s Mouth, being considered the _Scylla_ to the Charybdis of Sarn
Badrig, whose extremity lies nearly opposite; and if the mariners can
pass between these two, there is a very secure anchorage for ships of
large burthen, at a place called the St. Tudwal Roads, near the two
Islands of that name, on the largest of which are the remains of a small
Chapel, dedicated to that reputed Saint.—At Abersoch, near this place, is
also a small but safe harbour, where barley and other articles, the
produce of this part of the County, are exported, and coals, &c.
imported. At Gelliwig, which _was_ (for we greatly regret to hear that
he is lately dead) the residence of Colonel Evan Jones, a gentleman who,
as a brave and enterprizing officer, distinguished himself in several
campaigns, particularly in Egypt, under Sir Ralph Abercrombie; the writer
cannot refrain from paying this tribute to departed worth, for he was
certainly an honor to his country, and greatly beloved by all who knew
him. And at Nanhoron, in this neighbourhood, is the elegant and
hospitable seat of Colonel Edwards, one of the few gentlemen who
constantly reside in the country, and give regular employment to a number
of poor labourers, and set a good example to their tenantry in
Agricultural improvements. The following inscription was transcribed
from a Monument, erected to the memory of his brave father, Captain
Edwards, in the Parish Church of Llan Gian:
“Sacred to the memory of Timothy Edwards, Esq. of Nanhoron, who,
being appointed to the command of the Cornwall Man of War, of 74
Guns, in the year 1777, and having, in the course of a twelve-month,
distinguished himself in four successive engagements, in the West
Indies, against the French Fleet, was unfortunately, on his return
home, carried off by a bilious fever, on the 12th of July, 1780, aged
49, before he had received those honors from his King and Country,
which were destined to be the reward of his gallant and faithful
services.—His disconsolate widow, penetrated with the deepest regret,
for her irreparable loss, caused this Monument to be erected.
“_In cœlo quies_.”
Llyn, or Lleyn, is a very extensive Hundred, in general flat, but
interspersed with most characteristic hills or rocks, rising insulated in
several parts; none makes so conspicuous a figure as Carn Madryn, Carn
Boduan, and Mynydd Mynytho, (Mann-noeth-wy); the country, of late years,
is greatly improved, owing to the laudable example of the resident
gentlemen. The chief produce is oats, barley, pigs, and black cattle; it
is supposed that above three thousand of the latter are annually sold out
of these parts; much oats, barley, butter and cheese, are exported.—The
land is good, particularly for grazing, being watered by a thousand
rills; it is in general destitute of trees, except near gentlemen’s
seats,—the example of planting, set by men of property, is however
rapidly spreading; and by an Act, passed some years ago, many of the
commons and waste lands have been enclosed, and brought into a state of
cultivation. Giraldus Cambrensis, in his Itinerarium Cambriæ, says, that
the Cantreds of Lleyn and Eifionydd were the possessions of Owen
Gwynedd’s children, when he passed through Wales, and that they had two
Castles, one at Carn Madryn, and the other at Penrhyn Deudraeth.
Castellmarch, in this neighbourhood, is an old family seat, now the
property of Thomas Asheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Margaret Griffith,
heiress of Plas mawr, in Carnarvon, and Trefarthen, in Anglesey, married
Griffith Jones, of Castellmarch, in Llyn, Esq. and her daughter Margaret
Jones, heiress of Castellmarch, married Sir William Williams, of Vaenol,
Baronet. Not far from the road is Wern fawr, now in ruins, the property
of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. of Madryn. Near Llanbedrog is the Cottage,
the residence of Lloyd Caldecot, Esq. and before we enter Pwllheli, is
Bodegroes, the hospitable seat of Glynn Griffith, Esq. and not far
distant is Bodvel, {179} an old house, which had the honor of giving
birth to the celebrated Mrs. Piotzi.
PWLLHELI is the principal Town in this part of the County, and the
Magazine of Goods which supplies all this tract; it lies near the sea
shore, and has a tolerable harbour for vessels of about 60 tons: Leland
styles it “statio optima Carinis.” The entrance is by a high rock,
called Carreg y Wimbill, (the Gimlet,) which is near a mile from land, to
which it is joined by a range of sand hills. This place, as well as
Nevin, was made a free Borough, by the Black Prince, by Charter, dated
the 12th year of his Principality, at Carnarvon, in compliment to _Nigel
_{180}_ de Loryng_, or _Lohareyn_, one of the gentlemen of his
bedchamber, on whom he had bestowed, Nevin and Pwllhely, in consideration
of his great service in _Gascony_, and particularly at the Battle of
_Poitiers_. He entitles him to “servitiis quorumcunque tenentium tam
liberorum quam nativorum,” by which it may be presumed, that he did not
include the Welsh in the privileges; what those were we do not learn, but
they were the same which the Burgesses of Rosfair, in Anglesey enjoyed,
and for them Pwllheli was to pay to Nigel fourteen pounds a year, and
Nevin thirty-two. This Borough and Nevin, he freely bestowed on him,
with all its appurtenances, together with four _librates_ of Land,
towards the repairs of his Manors, and for all these he was only to pay
an acknowledgment of a rose, in lieu of all services; if he died without
issue the whole was to revert to the crown. Edward III. afterwards
confirmed these grants to _Sandwich_. Denio, the Parish Church, (or
rather a Chapel to the Vicarage of Llannor) stands on a hill about half a
mile out of the Town; it is dedicated to St. Beuno. The Markets are on
Wednesdays and Saturdays, and the Fairs on the 5th of March, 13th of May,
28th of June, 19th of August, 24th of September, and 11th of November.
Pwllheli is a safe and good harbour, as we before observed, and well
sheltered from all winds, but a Perch is much wanted at the extreme end
of the _Gimlet Rock_. This is one of the Contributory Boroughs with
Carnarvon, in returning one Member to Parliament; it is a Corporate Town,
and is governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, and a Recorder. The Petty
Sessions for the District are held here. An Embankment has been made
within these few years, on both sides of the Town, by which several
hundred acres have been recovered, the greatest part of which used to be
overflowed by the high tides. Pwllheli has as excellent beach for Sea
bathing, and is likely to become a place of resort in the Summer season,
for that purpose. The number of inhabitants in 1811, was nearly thirteen
hundred. The Prince (says Leland) had a place here, as yet appeareth.
The distance from Pwllheli to Tremadoc is about 15 miles; the first
village on the road is Abererch, situated on the river Erch, and partly
in the Cwmwd (Commot) of Dinlleyn, Cantref of Lleyn, and partly in the
Cwmwd of Eifionydd, Cantref of Dunodig. The Church is dedicated to Saint
Cawrdaf; it is a discharged Vicarage, valued in the King’s Books at £6.
Patron, the Bishop of Bangor. The number of inhabitants, in 1811, was
about 1100. In this Church was buried Sir Thomas Pulesten, a
distinguished favorite of Edward 1st. who was killed in 1282.—The next
Parish is Llanarmon, the Church is dedicated to St. Garmon. At Plas Du
in this Parish, was born that celebrated Epigrammatist, John Owen; this
place gave birth also to the Rev. John Evans, S. Th. P. Bishop of Bangor,
in 1715, and afterwards of Meath, in Ireland.—On the road to Carnarvon is
Trallwyn, the seat of J. E. Lloyd, Esq. and not far distant, Glasfryn,
Rev. Thomas Ellis; as we proceed, pass, on the left, Hendre, Rev. Thomas
Roberts, and pretty near it Werglodd fawr, R. Jones, Esq. After passing
the junction of the Pwllheli and Nevin Roads, soon reach Llanystumdwy, a
Church and Village, situated near a river, in a well-sheltered little
Vale, beautifully wooded; the Church is dedicated to St. John the
Baptist.—Near this place are a great number of gentlemen’s seats: Plas
Hen, now the property of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. once the seat of Evan
Lloyd Vaughan, Esq. by marriage with an heiress of the name of Vaughan, a
descendant of _Collwyn ap Tangno_; she afterwards married William Lloyd,
a younger son of Bod-Idris: this William Lloyd was Sheriff in 1648, and
was killed in a skirmish near Bangor, by Sir John Owen. Near it is
Gwynfryn, late the property of David Ellis Nanney, Esq. Attorney-General
on this Circuit, now the residence of his nephew, O. J. E. Nanney, Esq.;
a little nearer Crickaeth, to the left of the road, is Trefan, late the
property of Rev. Z. Hughes, now the seat of Mrs. Priestley.—To these may
be added Sgubor Hen, Aberkin, Ty Newydd, Rev. J. Kyffin; Mynydd Ednyfed,
Rev. Mr. Jones, Rector of Crickaeth; and Brynhir, now unoccupied. In
this neighbourhood are the ruins of a small Chanel, called Bettws; and
not far distant is Chwilog, an old House, which formerly belonged to the
ancestors of Sir Howell y Fwyall, our celebrated Countryman, who attended
the Black Prince to the Battle of _Poitiers_, and, according to our Welsh
Bards, was the person who took the French King prisoner, though that
honor is generally bestowed on _Denis de Morebeque_, a Knight of
_Artois_.—Our brave countryman, however, undoubtedly behaved on the
occasion with distinguished valour, for the Black Prince not only
bestowed on him the Constableship of Crickaeth Castle, which he
afterwards made his residence, but Knighted him, and in perpetual
memorial of his good services, ordered, that from thenceforth, a mess of
meat should be served up before the pole-axe, with which he performed
such great feats; for that reason he bore it in his Coat of Arms, and was
styled (as before-mentioned) Syr Howel y Fwyall, or of the _Axe_. After
the Mess had appeared before the Knight, it was carried down and bestowed
on the poor; Eight Yeomen attendants were constituted to guard the Mess,
and had eight-pence a day, constant wages, at the King’s charge; and
these, under the name of Yeomen of the Crown, were continued on the
establishment till the Reign of Queen Elizabeth, and it is supposed by
many that the Yeomen of the Crown are indebted to these for their origin.
After the death of Sir Howel, the Mess was carried as before, and
bestowed on the poor, for the _sake of his soul_, in the time of Popery,
and probably as low as the period above-mentioned.—Sir John Wynne, in his
History of the Gwydir family; informs us that this Sir Howel was also
Constable of Chester Castle, and had also Dwyfor, and others, the King’s
Mills, to farm, and a grant of the Weirs and Fisheries on this Coast,
besides many other offices of great trust and profit.
Crickaeth Cattle is situated on conical rock, jutting far into the sea,
and the Isthmus crossed, by way of defence, by two deep ditches; on each
side of the entrance is a great round Tower; the Court is of an irregular
form, and has the remains of a square Tower, beyond is another Court, and
in it, on the verge of the rock, are two others, also square. It is
probable that all the Towers were originally square, for the insides of
the two round Towers are of that form; they have so much the appearance
of the Architecture of Dolyddelen Castle, that it is probable this Castle
was founded by a Welsh Prince, and that Edward the First did no more than
case the Towers, which at present are the two rounders; after the
conquest, Edward appointed William de Leybourne to be Constable, with a
Salary of One Hundred Pounds a year, for which he was to maintain a
garrison of 30 men, one Chaplain, one Surgeon, one Carpenter, and one
Mason.
On our way to Penmorva and Tremadoc, pass by Stumllyn, formerly the seat
of the Wynnes, now the property of — Jones, Esq. of Machynlleth. Several
Antiquities are scattered over this part of the County; near Dolbenmaen,
is a large Mount, on which might have been, as Mr. Rowlands conjectures,
a Watch Tower. Near Ystum Cegid are three _Cromlechs_, joining to each
other, possibly memorials of three Chieftains slain on the spot. And
near _Clenenney_, on _Bwlch_ Craig Wenn, is a fine Druidical Circle,
consisting, at present, of thirty-eight stones; at a mile’s distance and
within sight of this, above _Penmorva_, is another. On Llysdin Farm,
were lately discovered, some small Urns, containing human bones and
ashes. Not far distant from hence, in the Parish of Llanfihangel y
Pennant, is BRYNKIR, once the seat of a family of that name, now the
property of J. Huddart, Esq. at present Sheriff for this County; Lord
Lyttleton, whose Letters from Wales are well known, and were published at
the end of Bingley’s first Tour, remained here for several days, on a
visit to one of the Brynkirs, and during his stay ascended Moel Hedog,
which divides this Country from the Vale of Bethgelert. The present
proprietor has built a new house here, and made other great improvements.
In remote days, this part of Eifionydd was possessed by two Clans, one
descended from _Owen Gwywedd_, Prince of North Wales, and consisted of
the houses of _Cessail Gyfarch_, _Ystum Cegid Clenenney_, _Brynker_ and
_Glasfryn_, or _Cwmystrallyn_; the other was derived from _Collwyn ap
Tangno_, and consisted of the houses of _Chwilog_, _Bron y Foel_,
_Berkin_, _Gwynfryn_, _Tal Hen bont_, (now Plas Hen) and _Pennardd_.—The
feuds of these two parties filled the land with blood. The history of
our Country, during that period, is the History of revenge, perfidy, and
slaughter. This consideration induced _Meredith ap Jevan_, ancestor of
the Wynne’s of Gwydir, to quit this his paternal country—“I had rather,”
says he, “fight with out-laws and thieves, than with my own blood and
kindred;—If I live in my own house, in Efionydd, I must either kill my
own kindred, or be killed by them.” There was not a house in the
hundred, as Mr. Pennant observes, that had not its dreadful tale,—they
would quarrel, says Sir John Wynne, if it was but for the mastery of the
country, and the first good morrow; John Owen ap John ap Meredydd, and
Howel ap Madoc Vychan fell out for no other reason: Howel and his people
fought valiantly,—when he fell, his mother placed her hand on his head,
to prevent the fatal blow, and had half her hand and three of her fingers
cut off by some of her nearest kindred. An attempt was made to kill
Howel ap Rhys, in his own house, by the sons of John ap Meredith, for no
other reason but that their servants had quarrelled about a Fishery; they
first set fire to the Mansion, with great bundles of straw,—the besieged,
terrified with the flames, sheltered themselves under forms and benches,
while RHYS, the old Hero, stood, sword in hand, reproaching his men with
cowardice, and telling them he had often seen a greater smoke in that
Hall on Christmas-even. These flagitious deeds seldom met with any other
punishment than what resulted from private revenge, and too often
composition was made for the most horrible murders. There was a
_gwerth_, or price of blood, from the slaughter of a King, to the cutting
off one of his subject’s little fingers.
The Village of Penmorva is situated in a nook, between some high rocks,
at the end of a tract of meadows, formerly subject to the over-flowing of
the higher tides, till an embankment was made by W. A. Madocks, Esq. a
gentleman to whom this part of the County is greatly indebted for
numerous and great improvements, particularly for the erection of an
embankment, about a mile in length, in order to reclaim some thousand
acres of land, and which now forms a safe and convenient road between the
Counties of Carnarvon and Merionneth, across the Estuary of Traethmawr,
whereas formerly many lives were lost in going over these dangerous
sands. In the Church of Penmorva, which is dedicated to St. Beuno, was
interred that valiant Knight, Sir John Owen, besides the monument to his
memory, there is another to Sir William Morris, of Clenenney, who died
August 11, 1622. Tremadoc, a new Town, which bears the name of its
Founder, is about a mile distant from Penmorva, and contains from Eighty
to a Hundred Houses.—Here is a handsome new Church, a Market-Place, a
comfortable Inn, and a great number of good Shops: near the Town are also
several good Houses built by the same Gentleman, particularly Tan yr
Allt, Morva Lodge, &c.; all of which, as well as every thing in and about
this small Town, evidently prove the individual who planned and conducted
the whole, to be a person of cultivated mind, improved taste, and
superior judgment and ability.—A Market has been established here, and
the Fairs which used to be at Penmorva on the following days, March 6,
May 14, August 20, September 25, and November 12, have mostly deserted
that place, and are held at Tremadoc.—Here is an excellent Salmon
Fishery—a good shore for Bathing—and a safe Harbour for Vessels under 120
Tons burthen. It is greatly to be lamented, that the beneficial
improvements projected by the before-mentioned public spirited Gentleman
W. A. Madocks, Esq. and carried by him to such a state of forwardness;
should not be completed. In the Year 1625, Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir,
conceived the great design of gaining this immense track, (Traeth mawr)
as well as the lesser one, (Traeth bach) from the Sea, by means of an
Embankment; and for that purpose he implored the assistance of his
illustrious Countryman Sir Hugh Middleton, in a Letter which has been
preserved, and together with that Gentleman’s reply, printed in Mr.
Pennant’s Tour. A Bridge over Traeth bach, and a new line of Road along
the Sea Coast to Barmouth, and a Stage Coach, or some other more regular
mode of conveyance between North and South Wales, particularly during the
Summer Months, are still left among the _desiderata_ of this portion of
the Principality.
* * * * *
_Ancient Divisions of the County_.
_Cantref_, _or _Commots_. (_Cwmmwd_.)
Hundred_.
NANT GONWY, Uwch Conwy,
Is Conwy,
Trefrew.
ABER, Llechwedd Ucha,
Llechwedd Issa.
ARVON, Uwch Gwyrfai,
Is Gwyrfai.
LLEYN, Cymmytmaen,
Cyfflogion, or Canologion,
Dinlleyn.
EIFIONYDD, was one of the Commots of the Cantref of Dunodig, and
Arduwy was the other.
CREUDDIN, is a Commot in the Cantref, or Hundred, of Rhôs.
APPENDIX.
A
_CATALOGUE_
OF THE
RECTORIES, VICARAGES, AND CHAPELS,
IN THE
County of Caernarvon;
WITH THEIR
_DEDICATIONS_, _SAINT DAYS_, _AND PATRONS_.
V. BANGOR, St. Daniel Dec. 1 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Pentir, _a._ St. Cedol Nov. 1 Bishop of
Capel Bangor
R. Llanddiniolen St. Diniolen Nov. 23 Lord Chancellor
C. Llanfair Isgaer St. Mary Sept. 8 Lord Newborough
C. Bettws Garmon St. Garmon July 31 Lord Newborough
V. Llanberis St. Peris June 26 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Llanrug St. Michael Sept. 29 Bishop of
Bangor
V. Llanwnda St. Beuno April 21 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Llanfaglan St. Baglan Bishop of
Bangor
R. Llandwrog St. Twrog June 26 Bishop of
Bangor
V. Llanbeblic St. Peblic July 4 Bishop of
Chester
C. Carnarvon St. Mary Feb. 2 Bishop of
Chester
R. Llanllyfni St. Credyw Nov. 11 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Llanaelhaiarn St. Elhaiarn Nov. 1 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Clynnog St. Beuno April 21 Impropriation
Jes. Col. Ox.
C. Llandegai St. Tygai June 16 Tithes
appropriated to
the Archdeacon
of Bangor
C. Capel Curig St. Curig June 16 Tithes
appropriated to
the Archdeacon
of Bangor
R. Llanllechid St. Llechid Dec. 2 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Aber St. Bodvan Jan. 2 Lord Newborough
R. Llanfair Vechan St. Mary Sept. 8 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Dwygyfylche St. Gwnning Jan. 31 Bishop of
Bangor
V. Conway Lord Viscount
Bulkeley
R. Gyffin St. Benedict March 22 Ap. to Deanery
of Bangor
R. Llangelynin St. Celynin Nov. 2 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Llanbedr St. Peter June 29 Bishop of
Bangor
V. Caerhun St. Mary Sept. 8 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Trefryw St. Mary Sept. 8 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Llanrhychwyn St. Rhychwyn June 10 Appropriated to
the
Archdeaconry of
Bangor
C. Bettws y Coed St. Michael Sept. 29 Appropriated to
the
Archdeaconry of
Bangor
C. Dolwyddelen St. Gwyddeien Aug. 22 Appropriated to
the
Archdeaconry of
Bangor
V. Llandudno St. Tudno June 5 Appropriated to
the
Archdeaconry of
Bangor
V. Penmachno St. Tudclyd May 30 Sir R. W.
Vaughan, Bart.
R. Aberdaron St. Howyn Jan. 6 St. John’s
College,
V. Aberdaron Cambridge
C. Llanvaelrhys St. Maelrhys Jan. 1 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Rhyw St. Elrhyw Sept. 9 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Llandudwen St. Tudwen Oct. 27 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Mellteyrn St. Peter Aug. 1 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Bottwnog St. Beuno April 29 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Llan Engan St. Engan Feb. 9 Bishop of
Bangor
V. Llangwynodl St. Gwynodl Jan. 1 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Tydweiliog St. Gwyfan June 3 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Llanbedrog St. Pedroc June 4 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Llangian St. Peris Dec. 11 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Llanfihangel St. Michael Sept. 29 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Bodean St. Buan Aug. 9 Bishop of
Bangor
V. Nevin St. Mary Aug. 15 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Edern St. Edern Dec. 2 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Pistill St. Beuno April 21 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Carnguwch St. Beuno April 21 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Llannor St. Beuno Sept. 14 Appropriated to
the
Archdeaconry of
Bangor
C. Pwllhely St. Beuno April 21 Appropriated to
the
Archdeaconry of
Bangor
V. Abererch St. Courda Dec. 5 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Penrhos St. Cynfil Bishop of
Bangor
R. Llanjestin St. Jestin Oct. 10 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Penllech St. Mary Aug. 5 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Bodveryn St. Meryn Jan. 6 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Llandegwnning St. Gwnning Dec. 31 Bishop of
Bangor
C. Ceidio St. Ceidiaw Nov. 2 W. Bodvil, Esq.
R. Penmorfa St. Beano April 21 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Crickieth St. Catherine Nov. 25 Bishop of
Bangor
R. Llangybi St. Cybi Nov. 5 Appropriated to
the
Archdeaconry of
Merionethsh.
C. Llanarmon St. Garmon July 1 Appropriated to
the
Archdeaconry of
Merionethsh.
* * * * *
About the year 525, Daniel ap Dunawd, Abbot of Bangor Is Coed, in
Flintshire, built a College in Caernarvonshire, for the instruction of
youth and support of the Clergy of this part of North Wales; and probably
designed it as a Cell, or member of the other Bangor, and continued so
till Prince Maelgwn, or Maelgwyn Gwynedd, a wicked Prince in his youth,
but reformed in his advanced age, among other works of Piety, created
this College into a Bishoprick, and Archbishop Dubricius, or Dyfrig,
consecrated the said Daniel Bishop thereof, about the year 550; and about
four years after, he died, December 10, and was buried at Bardsey, or
Enlli. There is but a very slender account of Daniel’s successors till
after the Conquest; from which time there seems to be a regular
succession of Prelates in this See, though by reason of the wars, they
had not all of them a quiet enjoyment. The Revenues of this Bishoprick
were valued 25th Henry VIII. at £151 3_s._ 8_d._; the clear value £134
16_s._ 4_d._ The next account is, that according to Bede, there was a
Bishop here, St. Awstin the Monk, who is called Ellodu, Anno Dom. 601.
However, Elbodius was certainly Bishop of North Wales, and died, as some
say, A.D. 806, others 811. There is no account who succeeded him.
Gildas Cambrensis dedicated his Book to a Bishop of Venetia; he
flourished A.D. 860. Mordaf is mentioned by Wynne to have gone to Rome
about the year 940; about the confirmation of Howel Dda’s Laws.
Hervey, surnamed Cruste, was consecrated Bishop of Bangor, between the
years 1089 and 1093, by Thomas, Archbishop of York; and so continued for
15 or 16 years; but using too great severity, he was very ill liked by
the Welsh, who at last murdered his Brother, and threatened to do the
same with him, whereupon he retired into England, to Henry I. for
protection, who assigned him the Abbey of Ely, which he got converted
into a Bishoprick, and quitted Bangor A.D. 1109, and died at Ely 1131,
where he was buried.
Urban, bishop of Landaff, governed this see, and took the care thereof
upon him, probably till 1119, when he began to be fully occupied in
looking after his charge in Landaff, and rebuilding his church.
David, a Scot, was consecrated April 4, 1120, in which year he consented
to the translation of the reliques of St. Dubricius to Landaff, out of
his own Diocese, at the request of Bishop Urban; he is mentioned 1127,
and his successor was
Meuruc, or Maurice, consecrated A.D. 1139: he was presented to the
Archdeaconry by Bishop David, and at first refused taking the oath to the
King of England, though afterwards he was with some difficulty persuaded
to it; he died A.D. 1161, and was succeeded by
William Priors, of St. Austin’s, Bristol, A.D. 1162, a very religious and
pious man; who was succeeded by
Guy Rufus, Monk of Walham, in the County of Essex, who was consecrated at
Ambrosebury, in July 1177; in the year 1188, he accompanied Baldwyn,
Archbishop of Canterbury, in his progress through Wales, and died about
two years after, 1190: he was succeeded by
Giraldus Cambrensis, who was elected to the See in 1190, but he refused
to accept of it then; so it continued vacant till the election of
Alban, or Albanus, Prior of St. John’s, Jerusalem, consecrated April 16,
1195: he died the year following, and was succeeded by
Robert, of Shrewsbury, who was consecrated the 18th of March. He died in
1213, and was buried by his own appointment in the Market-place at
Shrewsbury; after his death the See became vacant for two years, when
Martin, Abbot of Albaland, was consecrated June 16, 1215; he sat but a
little time, for in the same year we find
Cadwgan, who, as Brown Willis says, is the same with Martin, the one
being the name he was known by in England, and the other his original
Welsh name; Godwin, says he was Abbot of Llandefid, and being released
from his Episcopal charge A.D. 1236, he retired to the Abbey of Dover, in
the County of Hereford, and became a Monk, giving the Convent all his
goods: he died in 1241, on the 11th of April, and was buried there.
Howel’s Cong’ d‘Elire, is dated June 7, 1236: he dedicated a Monastry
built by Llywelyn Prince of Wales, at Llanfaes, in Anglesey; over the
grave of Joan his wife, daughter of John, King of England, whose pleasure
it was to be buried there.
Richard succeeded, and was consecrated A.D. 1240, or rather 1238 or 1237;
because in his Letter to the Pope to resign his Bishoprick, which was
about 1268, he pleads his having been Bishop 30 years and upwards.
Anian, Archdeacon of Anglesey, succeeded Richard, and had the
Temporalities restored Dec. 12, 1268. He is reported to have held a
synod 1291, at St. Mary’s, de Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of
Bangor: he also christened Edward II. in Caernarvon Castle, April 25,
1284.
Cadwgan succeeded Asian in 1306; he enjoyed it but a short time, for we
meet with the consecration of
Griffith ap Iorwerth, on March 26, 1307, on whose death, which happened
1309
Anian Sais, was elected Bishop Sep. 18, 1309, and consecrated Nov. 9th
following; he died Jan. 20, 1327.
Matthew de Englefield, Son of Iorwerth ap Ririd, Archdeacon of Anglesey,
aged 40, succeeded, being elected Feb. 25, 1327, confirmed April 25, and
consecrated June 12, 1328: he granted Bangor a Charter to keep a Fair on
St. Luke’s Day: he died April 25, 1357.
Thomas de Ringstead, S. S. T. P. of Oxford, a Dominican, succeeded, being
nominated by the Pope, consecrated Aug. 27, received the Spiritualities
Nov. 1357; he died at the Grey Friers in Shrewsbury, and was buried at
Huntingdon, he is said to have given £100 for the repairs of this
Cathedral.
Gervase de Castro, (probably the same with Gervase Fitz David, who occurs
Archdeacon A.D. 1351) Canon of Bangor, a Dominican, succeeded Dec. 11,
1366; received the Spiritualities Feb. 17th following, and died Sep.
1370.
Howel ap Grono, Dean of this Church, seems to have succeeded April 16,
1371; he received the Spiritualities July 31, 1371, and going to settle
matters to Rome, he died there, as Brown Willis says, in _Curia Romana_.
John Gilbert, a Friar preacher, succeeded March 17, 1371, received the
Spiritualities July 16, 1372; and the 16th of November following made his
profession of obedience to the See of Canterbury Sep. 12, 1375; he was
translated to Hereford, and afterward to St. David’s; he died in London,
July 28, 1397.
John Swafham, S. Th. P. of Cambridge, a Carmelite of Lynn, in the County
of Norfolk, Bishop of Cloyne in Ireland, A.D. 1363, was translated to
this See July 2, 1376. There was a Charter granted him in 1387, about
appropriating Llan Ynys, and Llan Fair, to the repair of the Church, and
support of four Chaplains, to officiate in the Choir: he continued Bishop
till 1394, and so no doubt till the election of
Richard Young, L.L.D. Oct. 21, 1399, or May 20, 1400, who had the
Temporalities restored in 1404. He was translated to Rochester, where he
died.
Benedict Nicholas, called also Nicholas Bennett, Rector of Stapleland, in
the County of Wilts, and of Conyngton, in the County of Huntington, which
he resigned A.D. 1417, he received the Temporalities July 22, at the
request of Arundel, Archbishop of Canterbury, and the Spiritualities,
Aug. 10th following: he was afterwards removed to St. David’s, Dec. 15,
1417, whereby room was made for
William Barrow, L.L.D. Chancellor of Oxford 1414 and 1415; Canon of
Lincoln, nominated by the Pope, Feb. 16, 1418; made his profession of
obedience April 16, 1418; and received the temporalities June the 5th
following; about June 1423, he was translated to Carlisle, and succeeded
by
John Clederow, who received the temporalities Jan. 15, 1424, and March
30th he made profession of obedience. His Will bears date March 30,
1434; he died Dec. 12, 1435, and was buried at Crayford.
Thomas Cheryton, of the order of Friars Preachers, obtained Licence of
consecration Nov. 26, 1436, and died about Dec. 1448, when he was
succeeded by
John Stanbery, the most learned Carmelite of his time, nominated by the
Pope March 4, 1448; he had before been appointed to Norwich, but the Duke
of Suffolk obtained it for his chaplain, he was of the University of
Oxford, and greatly in favour with Henry VI. and was appointed by him
Provost of his College of Eaton; and also translated to Hereford 1452; he
left in his will dated Feb. 25, 1472, a legacy of £30, to repair the
Church of Bangor, that was burnt in the troubles of Owen Glyndwr: he died
at Hereford, and was succeeded by
James Blackdon, Bishop of Achad or Achonry in Ireland, and also suffragan
to Bishop Beckington, Wells, which he resigned on his translation to
Bangor, the Temporalities whereof were restored to him March 26, 1452.
The Bull of his translation is dated Feb. 7, 1452; he was also Master of
St. Catherine’s Hospital: he died Oct. 24, 1464, and was succeeded by
Richard Evynden, S. T. P. Dean of Stoke Clare, in Suffolk, of the order
of Friars Minors; who obtained licence of consecration March 18, 1464.
In 1468 he represented to the Pope that this Bishoprick was not worth
£100 per annum, and so obtained leave to hold other preferments in
commendam, by the Pope’s Diploma, granting that whoever had this See
should hold some other commendam; as the headship of some Abbey, &c. He
died 1496, and was succeeded by
Henry Dean, or Dennys, an Oxford man, Prior of Lanthony, near Gloucester,
who had the Temporalities restored as appears by the patent, Oct. 6.
1496. He was a very eminent man, and a great benefactor to the church;
he was Chancellor of Ireland and Lord chief Justice 1495, in which office
he acted with so much diligence, that the pretended Duke of York was
expelled by his means out of the kingdom. He began to re-build this
Church and Palace, which had lain in ruins for near one hundred years;
but before he had completed the choir, he was in March 22, 1500
translated to Salisbury.
Thomas Pigott, born in Denbighshire, Abbot of Chertsey, and L.L.B. of the
University of Oxford, succeeded him; some of his leases to Bangor, are
dated at Chertsey, where in all probability he died Aug. 15. 1504.
John Perry, L.L.D. Abbot of Leicester and Prior of Bradley, succeeded
Aug. 30, 1505. He held his Abbacy, _in commendam_ until he became
translated to Carlisle, he was buried at St. Margaret’s in Leicester.
Thomas Pace, alias Skevington or Sheffington, who was born at Skevington
in Leicestershire, succeeded March 7, 1508. He was brought up at
Merisale, Warwick, where he first became a professed Monk, and went from
thence for further instruction to Bernard, (now St. John’s) College,
Oxford; he afterwards became Abbot of Waverley and Beauley, in the County
of Northampton; which last he held _in commendam_ with this See, till his
death, and resided mostly there and at London; yet notwithstanding this,
he became a very generous benefactor, by rebuilding the Episcopal Palace,
on the porch of which is this inscription still remaining over the door;
“Thomas Skevington, Epis. Bangor fecit.” and also the Cathedral Church,
as we have noticed in another place, he died about the year 1533, and was
succeeded by
John Salcot, alias Capon, S. T. P. of the University of Cambridge, Abbot
of Holm, in the County of Norfolk, and afterwards of Hyde, in the County
of Southampton; a very forward person in soliciting King Henry VIII’s
divorce; by virtue of which he became elected Bishop of this See, Jan.
30, and was consecrated April 19, 1534. He was afterwards translated to
Salisbury, where he died.
Joh Bird, S. T. P. of Oxford, provincial of the order of Carmelites’
Convent at Coventry, and Bishop of Penruth, was elected July 24, 1539,
had the royal assent Sep. 1, confirmed Sep. 18, and had the temporalities
restored Sep. 19th following. In 1535 he waited on Bishop Bonner, at
Fulham, and brought him a dish of apples and a bottle of wine, and was
presented by Bonner to Dunmow living, for a maintenance. In Aug. 1541,
be was made the first Bishop of Chester, on the new erection of that See,
by King Henry VIII. and was succeeded as Bishop of Bangor by
Arthur Bulkeley, L.L.D. educated at New Inn Hall, Oxford, who was
confirmed Dec. 20. 1541, and consecrated Feb. 1541–2; his first
preferment was the Rectory of Llan Ddeusant, in the county of Anglesey,
to which he was instituted Aug. 18, 1525, and soon after was made canon
of St. Asaph; on Aug. 8, 1537, he was made prebend of Clynnog Fechan; and
July 15, 1538, admitted Rector of St. James’s, Garlick-hithe, in London,
at the presentation of the convent of Westminster, which he quitted Nov.
8, 1544. He died March 14, 1552, and was buried in his own cathedral, in
the place where Bishop Skevington’s heart was deposited; after his death
the See continued vacant till the consecration of
William Glynn, born at a place called Glynn, in the commot of Malltraeth,
and parish of Hen Eglwys, Anglesey; he was master of Queen Ann’s college
Cambridge. In 1549 he was presented to St. Martins Le Grand, in London,
and made Rector of Hen Eglwys Feb. 3, 1551, and consecrated Bishop of
Bangor Sep. 8, 1555. He died May 21, 1558, and was buried in the Choir
of his own cathedral, in the 54th year of his age.
Maurice Clennock, L.L.B. a native of Caernarvonshire, Prebendary of York,
was nominated to succeed, by Queen Mary, but he died before his
consecration was completed. The Bishoprick was next conferred on
Rowland Meyrick, L.L.D. chancellor of St. David’s, and sometime of Wells,
and Principal of New Inn Hall, Oxford, born at Bodorgan, in the Parish of
Llancadwaladr, Anglesey, who was elected Bishop Dec. 1, 1559. He was at
first Rector of Stoke, by Neyland, in the county of Norfolk, and was
Precentor of Llan Ddewi Brefi, in the year 1549. He died Sep. 25, 1565,
and was buried in his own cathedral, on the south side of the communion
table, under the east wall, with an inscription now lost.
Nicholas Robinson, S. Th. P. born at Conway in the county of Carnarvon;
Fellow of Queen’s college Cambridge, and chaplain to Archbishop Parker,
on March 3, 1556, he was made Dean of Bangor, and in 1562 Archdeacon of
Merioneth and Rector of Northop; confirmed Bishop Oct. 6, 1566, with
leave to hold the Rectory of Whitney, in the county of Oxford, _in
commendam_. He died Feb. 3, 1584–5, and was buried in his own cathedral,
with an inscription on a slate which is effaced, with the exception of
these words, “Hic Jacet Nicholas Robinson,” and his successor was
Hugh Bellot. S. T. P. fellow of St. John’s college Cambridge, Vicar of
Gresford, and as supposed of Wrexham; elected Bishop Dec. 3, 1585,
confirmed Jan. 25th; he was translated to Chester 1595, where he died,
after he had sat a few months, and was buried at Wrexham, aged 54 years.
Richard Vaughan, born at Nyffryn, in Lleyn, Carnarvonshire, educated at
St. John’s college Cambridge; Archdeacon of Middlesex and Canon of Wells;
elected Bishop Nov. 22, had the Temporalities restored March 5, 1595–6:
on the 23rd of April 1597, he was translated to Chester, and thence to
London, where he died, and lies buried.
Henry Rowlands, S. T. P. of New college Oxford, born at Plas Myllteyrn,
in the Parish of Meyllteyrne, Carnarvonshire, of which he became Rector
in 1572, afterwards of Naunton in Oxfordshire in 1581, he was made Rector
of Aberdaron in Lleyn, 1584 Prebendary of Penmynydd, Anglesey, and Dean
of Bangor in 1593. His Conge d‘Elire is dated Aug. 22. During his time,
he became a most munificent benefactor to his cathedral, by purchasing
four (or according to Goodwin five) bells, and also by new roofing the
cathedral; he also founded two fellowships at Jesus college, Oxford; an
hospital for six poor men at Bangor, and a Tree school at Bottwnog, being
a chapel belonging to Myllteyrn. He died July 6, 1616, and was buried in
his own cathedral.
Lewis Bayly, S. T. P. born in Caernarvonshire, chaplain to Prince Henry,
and Rector of St. Matthew, Friday Street, London; elected Bishop Aug. 28,
1616. He was a married man, and left behind him four sons, some say he
was the author of the “Practice of Piety.” He died Oct. 3, 1631, and was
buried in his own cathedral, in Bishop Meyrick’s grave, he was succeeded
by
David Dolben, S. T. P. born at Segrwd near Denbigh Prebend of Vaenol in
the church of St. Asaph, which he held _in commendam_ with his
Bishoprick, to which he was elected Nov. 8, 1631. He was a great
benefactor to this See, and was descended from an ancient family in
Denbighshire. He died unmarried, Nov. 27, 1633, at the palace belonging
to his See, in St. Andrews, Holborn, London, and was buried in the church
of Hackney, aged 52.
Edmund Griffith, S. T. P. born at Cefn Amwlch, Caernarvonshire, in 1570,
succeeded David Dolben, having been elected Dec. 31, 1633: he was canon
July 5, 1600: he was preferred to the Rectory of Llanbedrog in the county
of Caernarvon, Dec. 10, 1604; and Dean of Bangor Sep. 9, 1613. He died
May 26, 1637, and was buried in his own cathedral.
William Roberts, Sub-Dean of Wells, and Archdeacon of Anglesey, was
consecrated in Sep. 1637, and had the Temporalities restored during the
great rebellion; he suffered much on account of his loyalty, however he
had the happiness to live to be restored in 1660. He gave by Will £100
towards adorning and beautifying Bangor choir; and £100 to Queen’s
college Cambridge, for maintaining an exhibition for a poor Scholar of
the diocese of Bangor, with several other bequests.
Robert Price, S. T. P. Bishop of Fern, in Ireland; son of Colonel Price,
of Rhiwlas, in the county of Merioneth, was nominated to succeed; but
dying in Ireland, before his election was completed, he made room for
Robert Morgan, born at Bronfraith, in the county of Montgomery; chaplain
to Bishop Dolben; he suffered much in the rebellion, prior to his
nomination, which took place June 8, 1666. He died Sep. 1673, aged 95,
and was succeeded by
Humphrey Lloyd, S. T. P. born at Trawsfynydd, in the county of Merioneth;
he was confirmed Nov. 8, and consecrated Nov. 16, 1673. In 1685 he
procured the Archdeaconries of Bangor and Anglesey, and the sinecure of
Llanrhaiadr, to be annexed to the Bishoprick of Bangor for ever, by Act
of Parliament; and two-thirds of both the comportions of Llandinam, to be
settled for the support of the fabrick of the cathedral, and the other
third for the maintenance of the Vicars of Llandinam. He also new-cast
the four bells given by Bishop Rowlands, and added a fifth bell, bigger
than any of the former, all at his own charge: and dying Jan. 18, 1688,
was buried in Bishop Rowland’s grave, aged 78, and was succeeded by
Humphrey Humphreys, Dean of Bangor, consecrated Bishop of this See June
30, 1689. In 1701 he was translated to Hereford, where he died, and was
buried in that cathedral. He was succeeded by
John Evans, S. Th. P. born at Plas du, in the Parish of Llanarmon,
Carnarvonshire: consecrated Jan. 4, 1701. In the year 1715, he was
translated to Meath in Ireland, and was succeeded at Bangor by
Benjamin Hoadley, D.D. (first English Bishop since the reformation) was
confirmed March 27, 1715, and consecrated the next day. In the year
1721, he was translated to Hereford; in 1723, to Salisbury; and in 1734,
to Winchester, and was succeeded at Bangor by
Richard Reynolds, L.L.D. consecrated Dec. 3, 1721, and in 1723 translated
to Lincoln, where he died 1744, and was succeeded in this See by
William Baker, S. Th. P. consecrated Aug. 1, 1723, and in 1727 he was
translated to Norwich, where he died, and was succeeded by
Thomas Sherlock, S. Th. P. consecrated Feb. 4, 1727, a very learned man
and an eminent preacher; he was translated to Salisbury, and in 1748 to
London.
Charles Cecil, L.L.D. Bishop of Bristol, was appointed to succeed him
Sep. 24, 1734; he began to repair the Bishop’s Palace at Bangor, but
dying in May 1737 of the Gout in his Stomach; he was succeeded by
Thomas Herring, S. Th. P. Dean of Rochester; elected Aug. 1737. In 1749
he was translated to York; and in 1749, on the decease of Archbishop
Potter, to Canterbury, where he died in 1757, and was succeeded at
Bangor, as well as in all his preferments, by
Matthew Hutton, S. Th. P. who was consecrated 1743. He succeeded
Archbishop Herring in the See of York, and upon his decease to that of
Canterbury, where he died the year following.
Zachary Pearce, S. Th. P. Dean of Rochester, afterwards of Winchester,
succeeded in 1747, which he resigned in 1756, upon his translation to
Rochester, where he died in 1778, and was succeeded at Bangor by
John Egerton, L.L.D. Dean of Hereford, of which See his father was
Bishop, who was brother to Scroop Egerton, first Duke of Bridgewater; in
1769 he was translated to Litchfield and Coventry, and from thence to
Durham, when he was succeeded by
John Ewer, S. Th. P. Bishop of Landaff, Chaplain to the Duke of Rutland,
and Canon of Windsor; he dying in 1775, was succeeded he
John Moore, S. Th. P. Dean of Canterbury, and Chaplain to the Duke of
Marlborough. He afterwards became Archbishop of Canterbury; when
Jean Warren, in 1784, was consecrated to the See; who was succeeded by
William Cleaver Bishop of Chester, who removed to St. Asaph, in 1806.
Dr. Randolph, Bishop of Oxford, succeeded, and them
Dr. Majendie, now Bishop.
_DEANS OF BANGOR_,
Iago ap Beli, circiter, A.D. 603.
Arthur de Bardesey, circiter, 1162.
Adams, occurs as Dean in 1278, being a witness
to a composition between the Bishop of Bangor,
and Lord Grey, of Dyffryn Clwyd
Kynddelw, circiter, 1286
Williams, occurs in the taxation of Pope
Nicholas, 1291
Anian Sais, afterwards Bishop of Bangor
Adam, circiter, 1327
Elias fil. Kenrick, occurs as witness to an
Inspeximus Charter in 1353
1359 Howel ap Gronow, afterwards Bishop of Bangor
John, occurs in the Lambeth Register, in 1371
David Daron, an adherent to Owen Glyndwr;
outlawed in 1406. He was son of Evan ap
Davydd ap Gr. a descendant of Caradog ap
Iestin, a Prince of Wales. His name
frequently occurs in a Dockett Roll at the
Prothonatory’s Office, Caernarvon.
William Pollard, an Englishman, was appointed
to succeed D. Daron, but never obtained
possession
May 5, 1410 Henry Honore, p. c. W. P. He exchanged with
his predecessor for the Vicarage of New
Church, Kent
June 9, 1413 Roger Wadhele, Cler. p. m. H. H.
Sep. 21, 1416 John Vantort, p. c. R. W. He exchanged with
his Predecessor, for the Rectory of St. Mary,
_ad muras Colchester_
Nigelles Bondeby, circiter, 1436
John Martyn, circiter, 1445
Hugh Alcock, circiter 1460. His house at
Bangor, now called “Plas Alcock”
Hugh Morgan, circiter, 1468, son of Davydd ap
Rees, of Presaddfed
Nicholas Rewys, circiter, 1474
1480 Richard Kyffin, L.L.B. Rector of Llanddwyn.
He was instrumental in promoting Henry VII. to
the throne of England. His grave stone is
still to be seen at Bangor
1504 Richard Cowland, S. T. P.
John Glynn, L.L.B. of Hen eglwys, circiter
1508. His will is presented among the
archieves at the Palace in Bangor
Dec. 12, 1534 Robert Evans, L.L.B. p. m. J. G. he was
deprived of all his preferments in 1554, for
being married
1554 Rhese Powel, p. dep. R. E. conjugat
Oct. 27, 1557 Robert Evans, B.D. re-instituted
Sep. 26, 1570 Roland Thomas, L.L.D. p. m. R. E. a native of
Anglesey, Fellow of Magdalen College
Cambridge. His will is preserved at the
Deanery of Bangor, in which he bequeathes some
lands for charitable purposes
June 22, 1588 Bishop Bellot, in commendam
Aug. 29, 1593 Henry Rowlands, B.D. p. c. Epi. afterwards
Bishop of Bangor
April 11, 1599 Richard Parry, D.D. p. c. H. R. afterwards
Bishop of St. Asaph
May 8, 1605 John Williams, D.D. p. c. R. P. Principal of
Jesus College, Oxford, &c.
Sep. 9, 1613 Edmund Griffith, B.D. p. m. J. W. afterwards
Bishop of Bangor
March 28, 1634 Griffith Williams, D.D. p. c. E. G. a native
of Llanrug. He was made Bishop of Ossory, and
had the Rectory of Llanllechid. He was a
great sufferer during the Usurpation
May 3, 1673 William Lloyd, D.D. p. m. G. W. afterwards
Bishop of St. Asaph
Dee. 16, 1680 Humphrey Humphreys, D.D. p. c. W. L.
afterwards Bishop of Bangor
Sep. 4, 1689 John Jones, D. D. p. c. H. H. of Plas gwyn, in
the Parish of Pentraeth. He held the
Rectories of Llanllechid, Aber, &c.
1727 Peter Maurice, A M. p m. J. J. of Maes mawr,
new Corwen
April 26, 1750 Hugh Hughes, A M. p m. P M. of Weeg, near Aber
Sep. 19, 1753 Thomas Lloyd, A M. p m. B H. of Bryn Adda,
near Dolgelley
Nov. 11, 1793 John Warren, A M. p m. T L
VICARS OF BANGOR,
_Vicaria_, _collationis Episcopi_, _cum Rectoria Ecclesæ Parochialis Sii.
Kedoll_, _alias Pentir_, _unit_: _et annexa_. _Festa Dec._ 1, & _Nov._
1.
1660 John Draycot, A. B. p. m. ullt. Vic. He was a
son of Thomas Draycot, principal Registrar of
the Diocese, and held the Rectory of
Llanddeiniolen; the following inscription is
upon his grave, within the Cathedral, “Joh:
Draicot, Vic. Bangor, et Rect: Llanddeiniolen.
Vir probus et pius, obiit Ap. 17, 1667.”
1688 John Buttred
June 17, 1691 Hugh Johnson, Cler. late Rector of Hen Eglwys.
Upon his grave-stone occurs the following
inscription: “Hugh Johnson, one of the Vicars
of this Cath: Church, who dyed the 4th Feb.
1694, aged 39”
Oct. 5, 1694 Pierce Lewis, A. M. late Rector of
Llanfacbreth. He held also the Rectory of
Llanfairfechan.
May 15, 1699 Robert Humphreys, A.M. p.m. P.L. He lies
buried at Bangor, with the following Epitaph,
“Roberti Humphreys, A. M. hujus Ecclesiæ
Vicarie Choralis, necnon Parochi de
Llanfairvechan Rectoris: Qui obitt 5 Cal. Sep.
A.D. 1711, Ætat. 49”
Sep. 17, 1708 Henry Williams, A. M. Rector of Llanrug;
afterwards of Llanfaethle
July 28, 1712 Thomas Vincent, A. B. p. m. R. H. he resigned
this for Llan fachreth
June 2, 1713 Bulkeley Hughes, A. M. p. c. T. V. also Rector
of Edern
July 27, 1713 William Evans, A. M. p. c. H. W also Rector of
Llangefni, &c.
April 12, 1740 Thomas Lloyd, Cler. p. m. B. H. afterwards
Dean of Bangor
Nov. 12, 1744 Hugh Hughes, A. B. p. m. W. E. late Rector of
Trefrhyw
March 12, 1749 John Ellis, L.L.B. p. m. H. H. Archdeacon of
Merion.
Dec. 7, 1753 William Lloyd, A. B. p. c. T. L. Precentor of
Bangor
Sept. 2, 1760 James Vincent, A. M. p. c. W. L. late master
of Bangor School, &c.
Sept. 21, 1773 Richard Griffith, A. M. p. c. J. V. master of
Bangor School, &c.
Dec. 5, 1785 John Kyffin, A. M. p. m. J. E. Rector of
Trefdraeth
1790 Peter Williams, D. D. p. m. R. G. Rector of
Llanbedrog, &c.
1802 John Jones, A. M. p. c. P. W. Archdeacon of
Mer. &c.
1810 John Kyffin, p. c. J. K.
1810 James H. Cotton, L.L.B. p. c. J. K.
July 29, 1819 John Hamer, A. B. p. c. J. J.
KING CHARLES LETTERS
TO THE
_GENTLEMEN OF CAERNARVONSHIRE_,
[Copied from the original MSS.]
CHARLES REX,
Right truly and well-beloved, and trusty and well-beloved—we greete you
well. Whereas a Rebellion being raysed against us, and forces marching
toward us, we are necessitated for the defence of our person and crowne,
and the religion and laws established, to call upon all our good subjects
to assist us; and whereas we are fully persuaded of the affection and
loyalty of that our countie, and of their readiness to assist us, their
King and Liedge Lord, in this our and their necessary defence, according
to their duty and alleagiance. These are to will and require you for
that, and with all possible speed, to bring to Shrewsbury to our loyal
Standard there to attend our further directions, the trayned bands of
that countie, as well horses and foote, with such other volunteers, as
your interest in them and their owne affection shall persuade to come
with them. And if the necessary occasions of any of our trayned bands
shall withold them, that either themselves or servants or other
volunteers be admitted to serve in their places, with their arms
compleat, which trayned bands and volunteers with these from other of our
counties in our dominion of Wales we intend to serve in our regiments for
a guard for our dearest Son the Prince, and receive them into our pay on
their arrival at Shrewsbury, whither we desire that our countie in this
our greate exigent to furnish them sufficient ammunition for their
journey, and money to bear their charges, which we shall look upon as a
great expression of affection and fidelity, and shall at all tymes
remember to their advantage, and we require all our Justices of the Peace
in that our countie to give their assistance unto us herein and all our
loving subjects of the same to be obedient to your directions, in
pursuance of these our commands, and for soe doing this shall be to you
and every of them a sufficient warrant. Given at our Court at Darby this
15th day of September, 1642.
_To the Sheriff and Commissioners of Array_, _in the countie of
Carnarvon_
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Right trusty and well-beloved, we greete you well,—We have understood
from the Gentlemen you sent to us, your loyal and unanimous resolutions
for the advancement of our service, and for your sending to our standard
two hundred armed soldiers, and moneys for their conduct and maintenance,
for which soe considerable assistance as we return you hereby our royall
thanks, soe we must desire you to speede the sending hither of those
soldiers unto our standard, all that may be. And least any disaffected
to us and our service should presume to oppose you in this work, we
authorise and command you to use your utmost power and endeavour to
apprehend and bring in safe custodie to us any one or more that shall
appear in opposition or disturbance of you herein. As alsoe for your
more effectual proceeding in this service, and for the security of our
good subjects in that our countie from intestine tumults and danger, to
make use of the magazin now remaining there, and of such further power of
the countie as to you shall seem meete upon all occasions, for which
these our letters shall be your sufficient warrant. Given at our Court
at Shrowsbury, the 28th day of September, in the eighteenth year of our
raigne, 1642.
_To the Commissioners of Array_, _of the countie of Carnarvon_
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trusty and well-beloved, having great assurance of your constant and well
affections unto us in this time of iminent danger, when our owne and our
whole kingdom safety is concerned, and being informed and satisfied how
much you have expressed your devotions to our service, We shall at all
times bee ready to remember your cheerefulness thereof, and not doubting
of your continuance to doe all things that may conduce to the furtherance
of our safety, we do hereby give you direction, that for such moneys as
you have or shall raise voluntarily within your countie for our
assistance this time, over and above what is for the conducting of our
owne trayned bands, you do paye the same unto John Owen, of Cleneney, in
our countie of Carnarvon, Esq. one of our Colonells, who is thereby to be
enabled to rayse a regiment to bring his several companies to our
standard. And for so doing this shall be to you and every of you a
sufficient warrant.—Given at our Court at Chester, the five and twentieth
day of September, 1642.
_To the Commissioners of Array_, _in the countie of Carnarvon_
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trusty and well beloved, we greete you well. Whereas we have by our
commission under our great seal, authorized and intrusted our trustie and
well-beloved Colonell John Owen to raise in these parts, command, and
unto our royal standard to conduct one regiment of foote, for our special
service, our will and pleasure is, that you issue unto the said Colonell
all such moneys as by you have been for our use received out of the free
subscription or contribution of our good subjects of that our countie,
which money we have assigned him upon the account of the said regiment,
and for your soe doing this, together with his acquittance acknowledging
the receit thereof shall be your sufficient warrant and discharge. Given
under our sign manuel at our Court at Shrewsbury this 28th day of
September, 1642.
_To our trustie and well-beloved Sir Wm. Williams_, _Bart. and Humphrey
Jones_, _Esq. of the countie of Carnarvon_
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trustie and well-beloved, we greete you well. Whereas Rebellion is
raysed against us and forces are marching towards us, which hath already
wrought a general distraction throughout this our Realme, to the great
disturbance and grievance of all our good and well-affected subjects of
whose wealth we are as tender as of our owne; we are necessitated for the
defence of own person and of this kingdom and the religion and lawe
established, to use all expedient means for our assistance at this time.
And whereas we have received good testimony of the good affections and
forward zeale of our loving subjects in the Principality of Wales,
particularly in our countie of Carnarvon, and of their readiness to serve
us for the preservation of the kingdom in this extremity, which we looke
upon as an expression of their great fidelity, and shall remember it to
their satisfaction, we shall not doubt of your willingness to give
obedience to our present directions thus sent to each of you for what is
in your power to perform for the furtherance of the publique safety. We
in confidence thereof doe hereby will and require you, and every of you,
that such publique moneys as have been raysed or ought to have been payed
for the safetie and defence of the kingdome within our sayd countie of
Carnarvon, and do remayne in one or any of your hands, that you pay the
same unto the hands of John Owen of Cleneney, in our sayd countie, Esq.
one of the Colonells who is to bring a regiment of volunteers, That
thereby he may be enabled to raise his companies, and to bring them unto
our standard. And this our warrant shall be his discharge unto you and
every of you for soe doing. And we further require that you do
immediately upon receit hereof, return severally answers in writing unto
us, when you and every of you shall be moved thereto, by the said
Colonell Owen or any on his behalf. Given at Wrexham, the 27th of
September, 1642.
_To our trustie and wel beloved Sir W. Williams_, _Bart. Wm. Glynn_,
_Owen Wynn_, _T. Madryn_, — _Hookes_, _Arthur Williams_, — _Griffith_,
_Esq. and Commissioners of the Peace for the countie of Carnarvon_, _&c._
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trustie and well-beloved, we greete you well. Whereas we have lately
signified our pleasure unto you that the following contribution money of
our countie of Carnarvon should be payed to Collonell John Owen towards
the charge of that Regiment, which he was appointed by us to rayse. And
we likewise directed our letters to severall persons who had collected
the publique moneys of the same countie, which were collected for the
defence of the kingdome, that they should pave them towards the same
charge as beinge for the common defence of the whole kingdome.
Notwithstanding we understande noe parte of these moneys is payd as we
directed. And that Regiment which by our special appointment is to march
immediately is in danger to disband for want of present supplie which as
it is much contrarie to our expectation, who have always hitherto found
the forwardness and good affections of the countie toward our service,
soe may tend much to our deservice especially at this time, when we have
occasion to make tryall of the Loyalty and forwardness of all our
subjects, and the payment of those moneyes to the said Colonell beinge
more acceptable and of more service unto us, than if they had been payd
unto our owne hands, who must otherwise have sent them towards the
supplyinge of that Regiment. We doe desire to have cause still to
continue our gracious opinion of our gracious opinion of our subjects of
that countie. And we are confident if we have not satisfaction herein,
it is through the coldness or disaffection of some particular persons who
prefer private ends before the publique. And therefore our will is, that
you use all possible diligence that we may have satisfaction herein by
speedy advance of the contribution moneyes, and calling upon those who
keepe the publique moneyes in their hands, that they forthwith pay them
to Colonell Owen, or otherwise that you certifie unto us with all speed,
by whose meanes our service is so much disturbed, that we may knowe and
recompence such persons according to their desert. And for that it much
concerns our service that the forces raysed in that countie should all
march in one body, our will is, that those 500 armed men, which are by
that countie to be sett forth for our service, be joyned with the sayde
Regiment and speedily march with them towards us according to such
directions as we have given to the sayd Collonell Owen. Given at our
Court at Woodstock the 29th day of October, in the eighteenth year of our
Reigne.
_To the Commissioners of Array_, _&c._
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trusty and well-beloved we greet you well. Whereas we have constituted
and appointed our deerest sonne the Prince to be our Lieutenant Generall
in our counties of Worcester, Salop, Chester and North Wales, and have
appointed our right trusty and well-beloved Arthur Lord Capell cheefe
Commander of the same under him, and whereas we have resolved to rayse in
our said counties a Regiment of fifteen hundred foote to be the liefe
guard of our said deerest Sonne. These are to will and require you to
make the same known to our good subjects of that countie, and to take
speedy and effectual order for the leavying and arming of the said
Regiment, according to our Commission in that behalf granted to our
trustie and welbeloved Serjeant Major Woodhouse whom we have appointed to
levy and command them. Soe not doubting of your ready assistance herein,
we bid you heartily farewell. Given at our Court att Oxford, the 18th
day of March, 1642.
_To the Commissioners of Array_, _and Sheriff of Carnarvon_
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trustye and well-beloved, we greet you well.—Whereas we are informed,
that you have diverse peeces of Artillery, which may be of use and avayle
to our citty of Worcester and towne of Shrowsbury, if they shall be
removed thither respectively, and there mounted for the defence of those
places. And being further assured of your good affections to our person,
and the advancement of our service, we pray you (all private
communications being layd aside) to lend unto us your sayd severall
peeces of Artillery, with all their Appurtenances, to be conveyed
foorthwith unto, and employed in our sayd cittye and towne, at the proper
costs and charges of them respectively, as alsoe, att their like charges,
for the returne of the sayd peeces of Artillery and their appurtenances
home againe, att the end of the service, unless in the interim it shall
be agreed betweene you and the sayd townes, to buy and sell the sayd
peeces, for such price and consideration as they can respectively accord
for them, or any of them. Of this service we desire you not to fayle,
being of much consequence to our affayres, and in performance whereof,
you shall do us a good pleasure, for which these our letters shall be
your warrant. Given under our signett, at our Court at Oxford, the 31st
December, 1642.
_To John Griffith_, _Esq. &c._
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trusty and welbeloved, we greete you well.—Whereas we have entrusted and
authorised our right trusty and welbeloved Arthur Lord Capell to be our
Lieutenant General of that and other of our counties, and to provide for
the security and preservation thereof by the best ways and means he can
devise. And whereas it hath been thought requisite and necessary for the
purpose aforesaid to levy a competent number of foote and Dragoons in our
said countie. Our will and pleasure is that in order to our said service
you shall receive and assist any warrants of Commissioners as are or
shall be issued from the said Lord Capell, with the same care and respect
as if they were our owne, since what he hath done or shall doe herein is
done by our command, direction, commission and authority, and for soe
doing this shall be your warrant. Given at our Court att Oxford, the
15th day of June, 1643.
_To the Commissioners of Array_, _&c._
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trusty and welbeloved, we greete you well.—Whereas we are informed that
Sir Thos. Middleton, Knt. is made Lieutenant General of North Wales by
Commission from one or both of our Houses of Parliament, and whereas
Edward Vaughan, Gent. hath withdrawn himself from our allegiance,
contrary to our express command, for the prevention of all danger and
mischief that may proceed from either of them to our countie or any part
of North Wales, our will and pleasure is, and we do hereby require you
and every of you to use your utmost power and industrie to apprehend or
seize the persons of the said Sir Thos. Middleton and Edward Vaughan, and
having seized them to keep them in safe custody, until you shall receive
our further order on that behalf. And for so doing this shall be your
sufficient warrant. Given at our Court at Oxford, the 16th of June,
1643.
_To the Commissioners of Array_, _&c._
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trusty and well beloved, we greet you well. We are very sensible of your
free and reall expressions of your loyalty and affection to us upon all
occasions, for the advance of our service:—And though we might well
conceive it needlesse to stir you up to the performance of these duties,
whereunto you are already very forward, yet we thought good hereby to put
you in mind of the great necessity of providing moneys for the
maintenance of our forces, for the defence of those parts against the
rebells, and to propose unto you, as that which we think a very fit
course, that you follow the good example of our good subjects of our
countie of Salop, and join with our trusty and well-beloved Arthur, Lord
Capell, in advising upon, and raysing some competent monthly contribution
in that our county, proportionable to what they have levyed, and also in
advancing such considerable sums of money as you can provide, according
as divers of our well-affected subjects of the gentry of Salop have
already done. We also think it very requisite, and have signified so
much to the Lord Capell, that the High Sheriff of that our countie,
should attend him about this affair, and that some person well affected,
may be chosen out of our said countie to be always resident with him,
that may receive advertisement of your proceedings in this business, and
may signifie from time to time to that our countie, the condition of our
affairs there, soe not donating of your ready compliance herein, wee bid
you heartily farewell. Given at our Court at Oxford, the 23rd June,
1643.
_To the Commissioners of Array_, _of the County of Carnarvon_, _&c._
* * * * *
CHARLES REX.
Trustie and well beloved, we greete you well. It cannot but be
displeasing to us that any of our subjects, especially such as you, who
should be good examples to others, should neglect our service, and the
authorities of such to whom we have given power to call you hereunto,
such hath been your wilful declining, as we hear, of the Lord Capell’s
summons to you by his Letters, to appear and join with the rest of the
countyes under his command, that we do assure you, if we hear not shortly
of your better complyance with him, we shall have much cause to suspect
your disaffection, for the urgency of our affairs now admits not of
procrastinations, nor our reall service of coldness. Given at our Court
at Oxford, the last day of July, 1643.
_To the Sheriff and Commissioners of Array_, _of the countie of
Carnarvon_
A
CATALOGUE
OF
Some of the Rarer Plants
WHICH GROW
_IN CAERNARVONSHIRE_,
WITH THE HABITATS OF THE MOST RARE.
_BY MR. J. ROBERTS_, _SURGEON_, _CAERNARVON_.
Veronica Spicata, _a_ {xxi}
Salvia verbenaca
Iris fætidissima
Schænus albus
Lycopus europæus
Poa alpina
Festuca rubra
— vivipara
Rotbollia incurvata
Galium cruciatum, _a_
— boreale, _b_
Centunculus minimus
Rubia peregrina
Alchemilla alpina, _c_
Pulmonaria maritima
Hottonia palustris
Convolvulus soldanella
Campanula hederacea
Lobelia dortmanna
Samolus valerandi
Euonymus europæus
Viola lutea, _d_
Beta maritima
Salsola kali
Crithmum maritimum
Œnanthe pimpinelloides
Scandix odorata
Sambucus ebulus
Parnassia palustris, _e_
Drosera longifolia
Viburnum opulus
Scilla verna
Anthericum serotinum, _f_
Juncus acutus
— triglumis, _g_
Rumex digynus
Triglochin maritimum
Alisma natans, _h_
Vaccinium vitis idæa
Saxifraga stellaris
— nivalis, _i_
— oppositifolia, _i_
— cœspitosa, _i_
— palmata, _i_
— hypnoides, _i_
— platypetala, _i_
Silene nutans, _k_
— acaulis
Arenaria verna
— peploides
Sedum rupestre, _c_
Cerastium alpinum, _c_
— latifolium, _l_
Euphorbia portlandica
Spiræa filipendula
Pyrus aria, _m_
Rubus saxatalis, _n_
— chamæmorus
Potentilla verna, _a_
Geum rivale
Papaver cambricum
Nymphæa lutea
—alba
Cistus marifolius, _a_
Thalictrum minus
— alpinum, _c_
Trollius europæus
Ajuga alpina
Galeopsis grandiflora, _o_
Galeobdolon luteum, _p_
Scutellaria minor
Antirrhinum orontium
Scrophularia vernalis, _a_
Lamium album
Crambe maritima
Subularia aquatica, _q_
Draba incana
Arabia hispida, _l_
— thaliana
Cheiranthus sinuatus
Erodium cicutarium
— maritimum
Geranium sanguineum
Malva moschata
Lavatera arborea
Fumaria claviculata
Genista tinctoria
Anthyllis vulneraria
Orobus sylvaticus
Lathyrus sylvestris, _r_
Vicia sylvatica
Medicago sativa, _s_
Hypericum androsæmum
— dubium
Tragopogon pratensis
Hedypnois taraxaci
Hieracium alpinum
Cichorium intybus
Serratula alpina, _b_
Gnaphalium dioicum, _b_
Orchis pyramidalis, _a_
Orchis conopsea
Satyrium viride
— albidum
Ophrys ovata
— cordata, _u_
Serapias ensifolia, _v_
Malaxis paludosa, _w_
Sparganium natans, _x_
Carex dioica
— atrata
— fulva, _c_
— rigida
— vesicaria
Salix herbacea, _c_
Empetrum nigrum
Juniperus communis
Rhodiola rosea
Myrica gale
Ophioglossum vulgatum
Osmunda regalis
— lunaria
Lycopodium clavatum
— selaginoides
— selago
— annotimum, _g_
— alpinum
Polypodium arvonicum, _y_
Aspiduim lonchitis
— Thelypteris
— oreopteris
— aculeatum
Asplenium marinum
— viride
— Septentrionale
Scolopendruim ceterach
Pteris crispa
Cyathea fragile
— regia
Hymenophyllum tunbridgense
Isoetes lacustris, _q_
_The following are recommended as good Guides_:
Thomas Williams, of Glan y Bala, or the Cottage between the Lakes,
Llanberis.
Thomas Phillips, Thomas Griffith, and all the Boatmen at Cwm y glo,
Llanrug.
FEET.
Height of SNOWDON, according to the Trigonometrical 3561
observations for the General Survey of England and Wales
Do. By Mr. Wollaston’s Thermometrical Barometer from 3546,25
Carnarvon Quay
Trigonometrically, according to General Roy 3555,4
Barometrically, according to Do. 3548,9
MOEL ÆLIA, do. do. 2350,55
— do. do. 2371
— do. do. 2391,8
Highest point of the RIVALS 1866
CADAIR IDRIS 2914
GARN FADRYN 1233
Footnotes
{12} It is in this manner, (observes Mr. PENNANT, speaking of Tommen y
Rhodwydd in Yale) that we must account for the total disappearance of
many Welsh Castles, whose names are preserved in History, and whose
vestiges we have sought for in vain.—They were made of wood, as was very
customary with several ancient nations, and with others of later date.
The _Persians_, on the approach of the _Spartans_, secured themselves
within their wooden walls, and Cæsar found great resistance from a Tower,
in the Alpine Castle of Larignum, made of the timber of the Larix, or the
Larch, which was found to be incombustible. In later times, the Castle
of Bamborough was built originally by Ida, with wood; the Burg of Murray
was fortified by the Danes, with the same material.—The people of the
same country, in 1228, had Castles of wood; and a century after these,
more recent instances: William de Melton, Archbishop of York, in 1317,
fortified the Mount in that City, called the _Old Bale_, with planks,
eighteen inches thick.
{17} The Court of King’s Bench has very lately determined, that stage
Coach passengers cannot legally be required to pay _any demand whatever_,
for being conveyed over the ferry at Conway, and for carriage of their
luggage, over and above the amount of their respective fares in such
Coach.
{30} Probably at Braich y Bedd, near Hafod Gelyn. There is a Tradition
that in former times there was a Church near that place, and a spot is
still shewn distinguished by the name of Hên Fonwent, (old Church-yard);
and it is not unlikely but the Walsh Princes might nave had their Summer
residence here, if we may be allowed to judge from the name; for Garth
Celyn must have been near this spot. There is also a Tradition, that the
village was set on fire, by Oliver Cromwell’s men, from the Bridge to the
Church-yard, and that they lighted a fire under the Bell rope, in the
Church, which they made use of as a Stable.
{38} Some idea of the magnitude of this concern may be formed, from the
Proprietor having shipped off, from Port Penrhyn, in the year 1819,
Slates to the amount of Fifty-eight Thousand Pounds.
{43} The Precentor, though at present unendowed, will in a few years
have a Salary annexed to his Office, in consequence of a Decree lately
made by the Lord Chancellor in his favour.
{53} This Ferry, probably, took its name from the Hundred or Division of
the Island in which it to situated, viz. Tindaethwy.
{55} Near this Ferry, on the Anglesey shore, is a Rock known by the name
of _Carreg Iago_, or rather _Carreg yr Iacon_, or _Arch-Iacon_; (the
Archdeacon’s stone) rendered memorable on account of Archbishop Baldwin
having stood up to preach the crusade upon it, at the time of his
peregrinations for that purpose through Wales, 1188; and Alexander,
Archdeacon of Bangor, is said to have interpreted to the people.
{56} Ceris, appears to be derived either from _Cawr-rys_ (or _rhys_) the
mighty rushing, or _Gyr-rhys_, which conveys nearly the same
meaning;—_Ymryson_, to contend, is compounded, of _ym_ and _rhys_; and
the English word _race_, or course, is probably derived from this word.
{60} The shore near Porthamel, (_Perth Amelius_, according to Rowlands;
_Porth ym moel_, as others conjecture,) is famed for being the place
where Suetonius landed; his infantry were conveyed over in boats,
probably near a spot still called _Pont yr Ysgraffiau_, and his horse
crossed, partly by swimming and partly fording.—Ready to receive them,
appeared on the shore, a motley army, (as Tacitus informs us) and women,
running wildly about, in black attire, with dishevelled hair, and like
furies, brandishing their torches; and the Druids surrounding them, and
lifting up their hands to Heaven, and pouring forth the most dreadful
imprecations. The Roman soldiers stood astonished with the sight—at
length, animated by their leader, and encouraging each other, being
ashamed to be intimidated by a womanly, and fanatic band, they advanced
with their ensigns, and overthrew all who opposed them, destroying them
in their own fires. After the battle, they placed garrisons in the
towns, and cut down the groves consecrated to their horrid superstitions;
for these people, considered it lawful to offer in sacrifice, the
captives taken in war, and, to consult human entrails.—How thankful ought
we to be for the benign influence of the Gospel of peace, by which we
were delivered from the yoke of superstition, and the abominations of
Heathenism!
{61a} The meaning of the word is _Resting-place_, a name given it by
Lord Lucan, being descriptive of the purpose for which it was erected;
his Lordship usually spending a few days here, on his why to and from
Ireland. The house stands on a bold eminence, and commands a full view
of the Bridge and Ferry; and the inmates of this sweet retreat, have the
pleasure of beholding the busy bustling scene, without being annoyed or
discommoded, either by the noise of the passengers or the dust of the
highway, as is frequently the case with houses situated near a public
road.
{61b} _Y Faenol_, is derived from _Maenol_, or _Maenawr_, (from which
probably comes the English word _Manor_, and the vulgar Latin _Manerium_)
meaning as explained in Howel Dda’s laws, either a lowland or upland
district, bounded or marked out by large stones, (singular _maen_, plural
_meini_) the former containing four Vills, and the latter thirteen. The
new house erected by the present proprietor, is at some distance from the
old one, the latter is very ancient, and has a very curious Gothic Family
Chapel nearly adjoining it, dedicated to St. Mary.
{63} Near the same spot, as it is conjectured, where Agricola pasted
over into the Island.
{66} This melancholy event took place on the night of the 5th of
December, being the Carnarvon Fair day, and the Boatmen probably in
liquor: the cries of distress were heard from both shores. One
remarkable circumstance deserves to be recorded, that only one person
(out of 69) survived in this instance, as well as the other, and both
their names Hugh Williams.
{69} _Caer_, the fortified Town; _yn Arvon_, in the District of Arfon,
one of the Hundreds of this County, so called from its situation,
opposite Mona, or Anglesey, which is the is the signification of the
word; viz. _Ar_, upon; _Mona_, Anglesey.
{74} The writer is aware that a very different account is given the
origin of this motto, viz. that these were the arms of the King of
Bohemia, killed by the Black Prince.
{91} Carnarvon, does not owe its name to Edward I. as is generally
supposed; for _Giraldus Cambrensis_ mentions it in his memorable journey
with the Archbishop, in 1188; and Llewelyn the Great dates from it a
Charter, in the year 1221: probably the Caernarvon of those times was the
ancient Segontium; whose name the Welch had changed to Caer-ar-Fon.
{92} A Well near the old Fort, now called _Hen Waliau_, bears the name
of that Princess, and some very slight remains of Ruins, point out the
probable situation of this old Building, not far from the banks of the
Seiont, to the right of the road leading to Pont Saint.
{95} The above William Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref-Arthen, was
descended by the Mother’s side, (as Mr. Rowlands informs us) from the
Pilston’s of this Town, and his Grand Daughter, Margaret, conveyed this
property to Griffith Jones, of Castellmarch, in Lleyn; and his Daughter
Margaret marrying Sir William Williams, of Vaenol, Baronet, that
gentleman consequently became possessed of it.
{98a} Specimens of Ancient Welsh Poetry.—London 1784. 4to.
{98b} The Red Dragon, was the device of Cedwalladr, which all his
descendants wore on their banners.
{98c} Supposed to be Tal y Foel, as it is now called.
{103} The word _Bala_, with regard to a lake, seems to convey the same
meaning as _Aber_, when applied to a river, viz. its _embouchure_.
{108} David Thomas, the Welsh Bard, better known by the name of Dafydd
Ddu o Eryri, has taken a house in this Parish, as he intends to quit his
present habitation in the Parish of Llandwrog, (where he has resided some
time) about April next. We cannot omit this opportunity of noticing this
favoured Son of the _Awen_, (Muse) who is generally considered as the
first Welsh Bard now living; and is another instance of what may be
achieved by great talents, and a strong natural genius, though unassisted
by the advantages of education.
{126} A conjecture, partly founded on tradition, attributes the erection
of this fortress to Pardarn Beisrydd, son of Idawl; as we are informed to
Mr. Pennant.
{128a} Rhodri Mawr, the son of Merfyn Vrych, Prince of Wales, A.D. 843.
{128b} Rhun ap Maelgwn, A.D. 585.
{131} It was reported that the Bard had perished on the Cardiganshire
Hills.
{133} Here we have the testimony of Leland, that _Wyddfa_ is _Snowdon_,
and _Creigiau Ryri Rocks_ were the _Forest of Snowdon_, which
comprehended nearly the whole County.
{149} The Devil’s Bridge is near Hafod, in Cardiganshire, twelve miles
from Aberystwith.
{159} Supposed to be derived either from _Gafl_, pl. _Geifl_, Forks; or
from _Yr Ufel_, Fire, from the circumstance of their having been made use
of as signal posts, and been lighted on them for that purpose.
{179} John Wynn ap Hugh, of the family of Bodvel, was Standard Bearer at
the Battle of Norwich, Temp. Edward VI. for which service he had Bardsey,
and Court, in Aberdaron, and was Sheriff of Carnarvonshire 1551; he
married Elisabeth, daughter of Sir John Puleston, by a daughter of Robert
ap Meredith ap Hwikin Llwyd, of Glyn Llifon.
{180} It is probably Pwll Nigel might have taken its name from this
Nigel.
{xxi} _a_ Gloddaeth,—_b_ Rocks above Llyn Idwel,—_c_ Snowdon,—_d_
Llanberis,—_e_ Cwm Idwel,—_f_ on inaccessible rocks near Twll du,
Snowdon, &c.—_g_ near llyn y Cwn,—_h_ Lake near Dolbadarn Castle,—_i_
near Twll du,—_k_ near Gloddaeth,—_i_ on Clogwyn du’r Arddu,—_m_ Penmaen
mawr,—_n_ near Glan y Bala,—_o_ near Bangor,—_p_ between Llanrwst and
Conway,—_q_ in the bottom of Llyn y Cwn, and Ffynon Frech,—_r_ near
Conway,—_s_ near St. Helen’s well,—_t_ Creuddyn,—_u_ by the Waterfall
near Aber,—_v_ rare in Fachwen,—_w_ near Dol Ty Du,—_x_ in Llyn Ogwen,
and Llanberis lakes,—_y_ on a black rock near Clogwyn y Garnedd.
*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "The Tourist's Guide through the Country of Caernarvon - containing a short sketch of its History, Antiquities, &c." ***
Copyright 2023 LibraryBlog. All rights reserved.