Title: The Mentor: Shakespeare's Country, Vol. 4, Num. 8, Serial No. 108, June 1, 1916
Author: Winter, William
Language: English
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                    THE MENTOR 1916.06.01, No. 108,
                         Shakespeare’s Country

                            LEARN ONE THING
                               EVERY DAY

                    JUNE 1 1916      SERIAL NO. 108

                                  THE
                                MENTOR

                             SHAKESPEARE’S
                                COUNTRY

                           By WILLIAM WINTER
                            Poet and Critic

                   DEPARTMENT OF            VOLUME 4
                   TRAVEL                   NUMBER 8

                         FIFTEEN CENTS A COPY



Stratford Impressions


It is the everlasting glory of Stratford-upon-Avon that it was
the birthplace of Shakespeare. Situated in the heart of beautiful
Warwickshire, it nestles cosily in an atmosphere of tranquil
loveliness, and it is surrounded by everything that gentle rural
scenery can provide to soothe the mind and to nurture contentment. It
stands upon a plain, almost in the center of England, through which,
between low green hills that roll away on either side, the Avon flows,
in many capricious windings, to the Severn, and so to the sea.

The golden glory of the setting sun burns on the gray spire of
Stratford church, and on the ancient graveyard below,--wherein
the mossy stones lean this way and that, in sweet and orderly
confusion,--and on the peaceful avenue of limes, and on the burnished
water of silver Avon. The tall, pointed, many-colored windows of the
church glint in the evening light. A cool, fragrant wind is stirring
the branches and the grass. The songbirds, calling to their mates or
sporting in the wanton pleasure of their airy life, are circling over
the church roof or hiding in little crevices of its walls. On the
vacant meadows across the river stretch away the long, level shadows of
the stately elms.

It is an accepted tradition in Stratford-upon-Avon that the bell of the
Guild Chapel was tolled on the occasion of the death and also of the
funeral of Shakespeare.

    Sweet bell of Stratford, tolling slow,
    In summer gloaming’s golden glow,
    I hear and feel thy voice divine,
    And all my soul responds to thine.

    As now I hear thee, even so
    My Shakespeare heard thee, long ago,
    When lone by Avon’s pensive stream
    He wandered in his haunted dream.

From “Shakespeare’s England,” by William Winter



[Illustration: WARWICK CASTLE, WARWICK]



Shakespeare’s Country

WARWICK CASTLE

Monograph Number One in The Mentor Reading Course


No one should come abruptly upon Stratford, the home of Shakespeare, as
Mr. Winter says. It is wiser and pleasanter to approach it gradually
by way of Warwick and Kenilworth. Both these castles have a place in
Shakespeare’s plays, and it is well worth while for the visitor to see
them.

Warwick is a quaint old town. Its population is about 12,000, and it
lies on a hill rising from the river Avon. Far back in antiquity it was
a settlement of the Britons, and, afterward, it was occupied by the
Romans. Its present name is of Saxon origin. Many of the houses retain
their medieval appearance; and in fact two of the old gates of the town
are still standing.

The prevailing quality of the town of Warwick is a sweet, solemn peace.
The people live there as in a gentle dream of repose. The little rows
of cottages breathe contentment; ivy embowers them, and roses cluster
about their windows.

The Church of St. Mary at Warwick as it now stands was rebuilt after
a fire in 1694. The Lord Leicester Hospital was established by Robert
Dudley, Earl of Leicester, in 1571. He founded it for the reception of
twelve poor men. This building contains several interesting relics, one
of which is a Saxon chair said to be a thousand years old; and another
is a piece of needle-work by Amy Robsart, the heroine of Sir Walter
Scott’s novel, “Kenilworth.”

On a commanding position overlooking the Avon rises Warwick Castle,
the ancient and stately home of the Earls of Warwick. This castle is
one of the finest and most picturesque feudal residences in England.
It probably dates from Saxon times; but the oldest part now standing
is the tall Cæsar’s Tower, 147 feet high, which was probably built
soon after the Norman conquest. In 1871 a great fire almost completely
destroyed the castle; but it was restored in the old style. The most
important event in the history of the building was its successful
defence by the Parliamentarians during the Civil War in England.

The interior of the castle contains an interesting collection of
paintings, old armor, and other curiosities. In the Great Hall are the
sword and some other relics of the legendary Count Guy of Warwick. His
feats of arms in slaying terrible monsters are an important part of
English legend. In the Great Hall also are the mace of Richard Neville,
Earl of Warwick, who was known as “the king maker,” and the helmet
of Oliver Cromwell. This castle is noted for its famous collection
of pictures, among which are several by Rubens and Van Dyck. In the
conservatory of the castle is preserved the famous Warwick vase of
marble, which was found near Hadrian’s Villa at Tivoli, in Italy, and
is attributed to the fourth century B. C.

Nathaniel Hawthorne has put into words the very feeling that comes over
each visitor to Warwick: “We can scarcely think the scene real, so
completely do those towers, the long line of battlements, the massive
buttresses, the high-windowed walls, shape out our indistinct ideas of
the antique time.”

    PREPARED BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF OF THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION
    ILLUSTRATION FOR THE MENTOR, VOL. 4, No. 8, SERIAL No. 108
    COPYRIGHT, 1916, BY THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION, INC.



[Illustration: KENILWORTH CASTLE, KENILWORTH]



Shakespeare’s Country

KENILWORTH CASTLE

Monograph Number Two in The Mentor Reading Course


It was in 1575 at Kenilworth Castle that the Earl of Leicester, then a
suitor for the hand of Queen Elizabeth, entertained her and the court
at “excessive cost” as described in “Kenilworth,” by Sir Walter Scott.

Everyone who has read the book knows that the Earl of Leicester had
secretly married Amy Robsart, the daughter of a country gentleman, and
at the same time was attempting to gain the favor of Elizabeth. When a
disclosure of the truth was about to precipitate the ruin of Leicester,
he prepared a magnificent pageant at his castle for the Queen; in
the meanwhile his follower, Varney, was to pass himself off as Amy’s
husband.

At Kenilworth Castle, on the Queen’s first entry, “a small floating
island illuminated by a great variety of torches … made its appearance
upon the lake,” upon which, clad in silks, were the Lady of the Lake
and two nymphs waiting on her. During the several days of the Queen’s
stay “rare shews and sports were exercised.”

The town of Kenilworth has a population of only about 5,000. The
magnificent old castle is now in ruins. It was originally founded
about 1120. In the 13th century it passed into the hands of Simon de
Montfort. Some years later it came to John of Gaunt. Later the castle
became royal property, and in 1562 Queen Elizabeth presented it to the
Earl of Leicester. He spent enormous sums of money in enlarging and
improving the building. At his death, however, it passed back into the
possession of the Crown. When Cromwell became Ruler of England he gave
the castle to some of his officers, who demolished the stately pile
for the sake of its materials. After the Restoration it passed into
the hands of the Earl of Clarendon, who still retains it. One of the
principal parts of the building remaining is Leicester’s gatehouse, now
occupied as a private dwelling. Then there is also the Norman Keep of
Cæsar’s Tower. This has massive walls fifteen or sixteen feet thick.
Merwyn’s Tower, built by John of Gaunt about 1392, may also be seen:
the “small octangular chamber” on its second floor is the one assigned
by Walter Scott to Amy Robsart.

    PREPARED BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF OF THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION
    ILLUSTRATION FOR THE MENTOR, VOL. 4, No. 8, SERIAL No. 108
    COPYRIGHT, 1916, BY THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION, INC.



[Illustration: CHARLECOTE, STRATFORD-UPON-AVON]



Shakespeare’s Country

CHARLECOTE

Monograph Number Three in The Mentor Reading Course


The well-known tale of Shakespeare’s poaching on the preserves of
Sir Thomas Lucy and his subsequent punishment is doubted by many
authorities; yet this story has clung to the poet and has always been
associated with the house of Charlecote.

The legend runs that Shakespeare as a gay and heedless youth stole deer
from the park at Charlecote. The fact of the matter is that there were
no deer at Charlecote at the time; but there was a warren, and this
term legally covers a preserve for other animals than hares or rabbits.
At any rate, the young poet is said to have been called up before Sir
Thomas Lucy, who was then sheriff, and prosecuted in 1585. There is
added the statement that Shakespeare aggravated the offence by writing
a silly ballad on Sir Thomas and affixing it to his gate. This gave the
Knight great offence, and Shakespeare is said to have been driven from
Stratford to London. The ballad, however, is probably a forgery.

Shakespeare is generally supposed to have caricatured Sir Thomas Lucy
in his portrait of Justice Shallow in the second part of “Henry IV,”
and in the “Merry Wives of Windsor.” This may be true for, in the
coat-of-arms of Lucy there were three “luces”; while Slender remarks
of Robert Shallow that “the ancestors who come after him may give the
dozen white luces in their coat.”

Sir Thomas Lucy was born on April 24, 1532. Three of his ancestors had
been sheriffs of Warwickshire and Leicestershire: and on his father’s
death in 1552 Thomas inherited the estates of Sherborne and Hampton
Lucy, in addition to Charlecote, which was rebuilt for him by John of
Padua in about 1558. In 1565 he was knighted and a few years later he
became high sheriff of the county.

In 1558 Sir Thomas Lucy introduced into Parliament a bill for
the better preservation of game and grain; this, together with
his reputation as a preserver of game, gives some color to the
Shakespearian tradition connected with his name. He died at Charlecote
on July 7, 1600. The Charlecote estates eventually passed to the Rev.
John Hammond through his marriage with Alice Lucy, and in 1789 he
himself adopted the name of Lucy.

Charlecote is still occupied by one of his descendants. It contains a
good collection of old paintings, antique furniture, and many objects
of Shakespearian interest. The park is now well stocked with deer.

Charlecote Church, nearby, contains several monuments of the Lucy
family, including one to the wife of Sir Thomas Lucy with a fine
epitaph written by the Knight himself. This epitaph shows that Sheriff
Lucy could hardly have been otherwise than kind and gentle. He may have
been a severe magistrate and perhaps a haughty, disagreeable neighbor,
but in those lines there is a tone of manhood and high feeling that
wins a prompt response of sympathy. If Shakespeare stole the deer of
Sir Thomas Lucy, he received just punishment and the Knight was not to
blame.

    PREPARED BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF OF THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION
    ILLUSTRATION FOR THE MENTOR, VOL. 4, No. 8, SERIAL No. 108
    COPYRIGHT, 1916, BY THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION, INC.



[Illustration: THE CHURCH AND THE RIVER, STRATFORD-UPON-AVON]



Shakespeare’s Country

THE CHURCH AND THE RIVER, STRATFORD-UPON-AVON

Monograph Number Four In The Mentor Reading Course


Historians may deny it, statisticians may disprove it, yet Stratford
is the heart of England, and the little Avon is in a sense the most
famous of all English rivers. It is the goal of all Shakespeare lovers.
The poet and the river are Stratford’s two claims for distinction--but
what place could ask for more? The Avon gives it a setting, the beauty
of which can never entirely pass from the mind of the beholder;
Shakespeare, the man and the poet, is to be seen and heard everywhere.

Stratford-upon-Avon is a clean and well built little country town of
about 8,000 or 9,000 inhabitants. It has wide and pleasant streets
with numerous quaint half-timbered houses. It is a place of great
antiquity. Stratford is mentioned in a Saxon Charter of the eighth
century, and Roman coins have been found in the district showing that
it was inhabited in Roman times. Later it had some importance as
an agricultural center. In addition to this, the various trades of
weaving, glove-making, candle-making, and soap-making were carried on;
but now these have lost their importance, and the town owes its fame
almost entirely to the memory of Shakespeare, born there in 1564. Over
35,000 pilgrims annually visit Stratford.

The River Avon, gently flowing among meadows and forests, is navigable
only for small boats. At Stratford it is crossed by a stone bridge of
fourteen arches. This was built by Sir Hugh Clopton in the reign of
Henry VII.

On the bank of the river is the Church of the Holy Trinity. It occupies
the site of a Saxon monastery, and was probably completed in the
fifteenth century. It was greatly restored in 1890-1892 and 1898.
The central tower dates probably from the twelfth century. This is
surmounted by a lofty spire.

The interior of the church contains many things of interest, but
those that attract the visitor most strongly are, of course, the ones
connected with Shakespeare. There is his grave, and there on the wall
above is the bust which was executed soon after his death. The stained
glass window nearby, representing the Seven Ages, was erected with the
contributions of American visitors. Near Shakespeare’s tomb are those
of his wife, Anne Hathaway, of his daughter and son-in-law, and of
Thomas Nash, the first husband of his granddaughter, Elizabeth.

Shakespeare’s House, in which the poet was born in 1564, is now
national property.

The Shakespeare Memorial Building, the site for which was presented to
the town of Stratford by Charles Edward Flower, stands on the banks
of the Avon a little above Trinity Church. It was erected in 1879. It
includes a Theater in which annual performances are held in April, and
occasional performances during the winter. The “Droeshout Portrait”
of Shakespeare, an authentic portrait of the dramatist, is one of
the treasures kept in this building. In the adjoining grounds is the
Shakespeare Monument presented in 1888 by the sculptor Lord Ronald
Gower. On top of the Monument is a large seated figure of the poet, and
around the base are figures of Lady Macbeth, Prince Hal, Falstaff, and
Hamlet.

The Red Horse Hotel in Stratford contains a bedroom and a sitting-room
occupied by Washington Irving. There may still be seen the chair in
which he sat and the poker with which he meditatively stirred the fire.

    PREPARED BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF OF THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION
    ILLUSTRATION FOR THE MENTOR, VOL. 4, No. 8, SERIAL No. 108
    COPYRIGHT, 1916, BY THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION, INC.



[Illustration: THE GUILD CHAPEL AND THE SITE OF NEW PLACE,
STRATFORD-UPON-AVON]



Shakespeare’s Country

THE GUILD CHAPEL, AND THE SITE OF NEW PLACE, STRATFORD-UPON-AVON

Monograph Number Five in The Mentor Reading Course


The earliest record of the house in which Shakespeare died at Stratford
is contained in these words of a visitor there in 1760:

“There stood here till lately the house in which Shakespeare lived,
and a mulberry-tree of his planting; the house was large, strong and
handsome; the tree so large that it would shade the grass-plot in your
garden, which I think is more than twenty yards square, and supply the
whole town with mulberries every year. As the curiosity of this house
and tree brought much fame, and more company and profit, to the town, a
certain man, on some disgust, has pulled the house down, so as not to
leave one stone upon another, and cut the tree, and piled it as a stack
of firewood, to the great vexation, loss, and disappointment of the
inhabitants; however, an honest silversmith bought the whole stack of
wood, and makes many odd things of this wood for the curious, some of
which I hope to bring with me to town.”

The “certain man” who pulled the house down was the Reverend Francis
Gastrell. Shakespeare bought New Place in 1597. It had been built by
Sir Hugh Clopton in 1483. After Shakespeare went to live in it we can
imagine him standing in his garden and watching the boys with their
“shining morning faces” going to the school nearby. Now, however,
nothing remains but the foundation of the house.

Shakespeare died there on April 23, 1616. He left the house to his
daughter, Susan Hall. She lived there until 1649, and her daughter in
turn kept it until 1670. In 1753 it came into the possession of the
Reverend Francis Gastrell. Visitors annoyed him so much that he cut
down the poet’s mulberry-tree that grew in the garden, and later razed
the house to the ground. The site was purchased by money raised through
public subscription and presented to the trustees of Shakespeare’s
birthplace in 1870. Only the foundations are now visible, covered over
by wire. The great garden at the back is now a public garden, and in it
on the central lawn is a mulberry-tree, descended from the poet’s own
tree.

Next to New Place is the house of Shakespeare’s grandson by marriage,
Thomas Nash. It has been restored so as to give it the appearance it
had in Shakespeare’s day. Thomas Nash was married to Elizabeth Hall,
Shakespeare’s only granddaughter and last surviving descendant.

Opposite New Place stands the Guild Chapel. This is externally much the
same as in the poet’s day. It is adjoined by the old Guild Hall, where
Shakespeare may often have seen the performances of strolling players.
The upper story is the Grammar School in which he was educated.

    PREPARED BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF OF THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION
    ILLUSTRATION FOR THE MENTOR, VOL. 4, No. 8, SERIAL No. 108
    COPYRIGHT, 1916, BY THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION, INC.



[Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF SHOTTERY--WHERE ANNE HATHAWAY LIVED]



Shakespeare’s Country

THE VILLAGE OF SHOTTERY

Monograph Number Six in The Mentor Reading Course


Tradition has always fixed the house known as Anne Hathaway’s Cottage
in Shottery as the house where Shakespeare wooed and won his bride.
There is no doubt that the house belonged to a family named Hathaway,
but whether to those from whom Anne sprang cannot be said with
certainty.

The village of Shottery is about one mile from Stratford. It is a
prosperous little town with one or two industries and many substantial
cottages. Anne Hathaway’s Cottage stands on the outskirts. It is
a rather large building of the Elizabethan period and was once a
farmhouse. It stands today practically as it was in Shakespeare’s
time. In front of the cottage is a small garden gay with old-fashioned
flowers.

The house itself is built of wood and plaster and covered with a
thatched roof. The interior is low-ceilinged; and the main room has
a stone floor and wide fireplace with cozy chimney corner. The house
contains an old wooden settle on which Shakespeare may often have sat,
a carved bedstead, and other relics of three hundred years ago.

A bedroom which is said to have been that of Anne Hathaway, has a
sloping roof and contains some old pottery, chairs, and tables.

Anne Hathaway’s Cottage was purchased for the British nation in 1892
at a cost of about $15,000. It is now cared for by the “Shakespeare
Birthplace Trust.”

The Hathaways had lived in Shottery for forty years prior to
Shakespeare’s marriage. At this time the poet was just eighteen, while
Anne herself was nearly twenty-six. They were married in November, 1582.

It is not known exactly where Shakespeare and his wife lived during the
first years after their marriage. However, in 1585 he was obliged to
leave his wife and children and go to London to seek his fortune. It is
probable that Anne then returned beneath her parents’ roof. No one can
look upon this humble cottage without a thrill as he realizes that the
garret of the cottage in Shottery may often have welcomed the poet when
he came home from his labors in the great city.

    PREPARED BY THE EDITORIAL STAFF OF THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION
    ILLUSTRATION FOR THE MENTOR, VOL. 4, No. 8, SERIAL No. 108
    COPYRIGHT, 1916, BY THE MENTOR ASSOCIATION, INC.



SHAKESPEARE’S COUNTRY

By WILLIAM WINTER

_Poet and Critic_

[Illustration: Warwick Castle

Cæsar’s Tower from the Lawn]

THE MENTOR · DEPARTMENT OF TRAVEL · JUNE 1, 1916

    _MENTOR GRAVURES_--WARWICK CASTLE · KENILWORTH CASTLE ·
    CHARLECOTE · THE CHURCH AND THE RIVER, STRATFORD · THE SOUTH
    CHAPEL AND THE SITE OF NEW PLACE, STRATFORD · THE VILLAGE OF
    SHOTTERY

    Entered at the Post-office at New York, N. Y., as second-class
    matter. Copyright, 1916, by The Mentor Association, Inc.


The Shakespeare[1] Country, Warwickshire, is situated nearly
in the center of England, and the birthplace of Shakespeare,
Stratford-upon-Avon, is situated in the southern part of Warwickshire.
A pleasant way in which to enter the Shakespeare Country is to travel
by rail from London to Warwick, and then drive from Warwick to
Stratford. There are two roads for the drive, one twelve miles long,
the other eight. Both are agreeable; but the longer is the better,
because more can be seen by the way. The traveler is wise who lodges
for a few days at Warwick, in order to visit Warwick Castle, St. Mary’s
Church, the ancient Gates, and the hospital for twelve aged men founded
in 1571 by Queen Elizabeth’s favorite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester
(the scene of Hawthorne’s singular posthumous romance, “Dr. Grimshawe’s
Secret”), and incidentally to make excursions northward to Kenilworth
and Coventry.

    [1] There are 4,000 variations in the spelling of the name
    “Shakespeare.” An entire book has been made up on the subject.

[Illustration: CLOPTON BRIDGE, STRATFORD]

All those places, in themselves interesting, are associated with
the Shakespeare Story, and a view of them gradually imparts to the
observer’s mind a sympathetic comprehension of the environment in
which Shakespeare was born and reared. The face of the country has,
of course, been changed since his time, because little villages,
fine villas, fertile farms, spacious parks, and blooming meadows now
exist where once there was a woodland called the Forest of Arden (the
indubitable forest, memories of which colored Shakespeare’s fancy when
he wrote “As You Like It”), extending for many miles northward and
westward from a point near Stratford and along the river Avon. Some
things survive, however, which can be seen much as the poet saw them
more than 300 years ago.


KENILWORTH AND WARWICK

[Illustration: THE MILL, GUY’S CLIFF NEAR WARWICK

The name is derived from Guy, Earl of Warwick, who once lived as a
hermit, in a cave below the house, and was buried there]

When Shakespeare saw Kenilworth Castle he did not, indeed, see it as
it now is, a picturesque mass of ruins,--the wreck made by Cromwell’s
soldiers about 1643-45,--but as a stately structure, at once a fortress
and a palace. Warwick Castle, on the contrary, was the same imposing
structure to him that it is to the observer of today. In the modern
part of that castle now the visitor is shown a sumptuous collection
of paintings, including Van Dyck’s famous equestrian portrait of King
Charles I, and such suggestive relics as the helmet and the death-mask
of Cromwell; but those things impress the mind much less than does the
building itself. That Shakespeare entered the Castle is not known; but
that he saw it cannot be doubted, for Cæsar’s Tower--one of the older
parts of it--which dominates the region around Warwick now has been
grandly conspicuous there for more than 400 years, and in the poet’s
time it must have been familiar to all inhabitants of Warwickshire.
Kenilworth, Coventry, and Warwick figure in some of his historical
plays, and his particular knowledge of all the surroundings of
Stratford, and, indeed, of the whole of central England, through which
the Wars of the Roses raged, is manifested in those dramas. He had
ample opportunity of acquiring that knowledge.

The first twenty-one or twenty-two years of his life were passed by him
in his native town. The next twenty-seven years he passed in London,
visiting Stratford once a year. In his closing years, from about 1613
to his death in 1616, he dwelt in Stratford, in his house called New
Place, bought by him in 1597, where he died. The traveler who visits
the Shakespeare Country, viewing it exclusively with reference to its
associations with the poet, should bear in mind these divisions of
time. The larger part of Shakespeare’s work was done in London. It is
mostly as a youth, though a little as a veteran, that personally he is
connected with Stratford.

[Illustration: THE RED HORSE HOTEL, STRATFORD-UPON-AVON]

[Illustration: WASHINGTON IRVING PARLOR IN THE RED HORSE HOTEL]


BLACKLOW HILL AND GUY’S CLIFF

In the course of the drive from Warwick to Stratford (either way)
the traveler passes Ganerslie Heath and Blacklow Hill, places said
to be haunted. On Blacklow Hill the corrupt Piers Gaveston, Earl
of Cornwall, unworthy favorite of that weak king, Edward II, was
beheaded, June 20, 1312, by order of Guy, tenth Earl of Warwick, whom
he had opposed and maligned, calling him “the Black Dog of Arden,”
and some of the peasantry of the neighborhood entertain to this day
an old superstitious notion that dismal bells have been heard to toll
from that hill at midnight. The scene of Gaveston’s decapitation is
marked by a monument. Another place of interest to be seen in the
course of the drive is Guy’s Cliff, a secluded residence, beside the
Avon, traditionally associated with an ancient, fabled Guy, Earl of
Warwick, who, after performing prodigies of valor, retired to that
place and lived and died a hermit. Camden, the antiquary, Shakespeare’s
contemporary, whose “Britannia” (1586) he probably knew, thus happily
describes it:

    “There have ye a shady little wood, cleere and cristall
    springs, mossy bottomes and caves, medowes alwaies fresh and
    greene, the river rumbling here and there among the stones with
    his streame making a mild noise and gentle whispering, and
    besides all this, solitary and still quietnesse, things most
    grateful to the Muses.”

[Illustration: CHARLECOTE HOUSE]

[Illustration: STONELEIGH ABBEY

This fine mansion, the seat of Lord Leigh, was erected in the
eighteenth century, and occupies the site of a Cistercian Abbey, of
which a gateway still remains]


THE BEAUTY OF SHAKESPEARE’S COUNTRY

Those quaint words convey a just impression of the beauty of the
Shakespeare Country. Its physical aspects are charming; its inhabitants
and its products are characteristic; its historic associations are
diversified and impressive. It is entirely worth seeing for its
own sake, and it richly rewards the visitor who explores it in a
sympathetic spirit and a leisurely way. But the great glory of
Warwickshire consists in the fact that it was the birthplace of
Shakespeare; the scene of all his youthful experience, his education,
his courtship of Anne Hathaway (whose dwelling yet remains), his
marriage, the birth of his three children, his death, and his burial.

[Illustration: THE TOWN HALL AND THE SHAKESPEARE HOTEL,
STRATFORD-UPON-AVON]


A VISIT TO STRATFORD

[Illustration: A ROOM IN THE OLD GRAMMAR SCHOOL, AT STRATFORD-UPON-AVON]

I could never forget the emotion with which my mind was thrilled when
first I took the drive from Warwick to Stratford (1877), and alighted
at the old Red Horse Hotel. The day had been one of exceptional beauty.
The long twilight had faded, and the stars were shining when that
night, for the first time, I stood at the door of the birthplace of
Shakespeare, and looked on its quaint casements and gables, its antique
porch, and the massive timbers that cross its front. I conjure up the
vision now, as I saw it then. I stand there for a long while, and feel
that I shall remember these sights forever. Then, with lingering
steps, I turn away, and, passing through a narrow, crooked lane, I walk
in the High Street, and note at the end of the prospect the illuminated
clock in a dark church-tower. A few chance-directed steps bring me to
what was New Place once, where Shakespeare died, and there again I
pause and long remain in meditation, gazing into the inclosed garden,
where, under screens of wire, are fragments of mortar and stone.
These--although I do not know it--are the remains of the foundations
of Shakespeare’s house. The night wanes, but still I walk in Stratford
streets, and by and by I am standing on the bridge that spans the Avon,
and looking down at the thick-clustered stars reflected in the dark
and silent stream. At last, under the roof of the Red Horse, I sink
into a troubled slumber, from which soon a strain of celestial music,
strong, sweet, jubilant, and splendid, awakens me in an instant, and I
start up in bed,--to find that all around me is as still as death; and
then, drowsily, far off, the bell strikes three, in that weird, grim,
lonesome church-tower which I have just seen.

[Illustration: NEW PLACE GARDENS STRATFORD-UPON-AVON

Where Shakespeare’s house stood]


THE RED HORSE HOTEL

Many times since that first night at Stratford I have rested in the old
Red Horse, and nowhere, in a large experience of travel, have I found a
more homelike abode. It is a storied dwelling, too; for it was an inn
when Shakespeare lived. It is believed to have been known to those old
poets Michael Drayton and Ben Jonson; Betterton is said to have lodged
in it when he visited Stratford, to glean information about the great
dramatist of whose chief characters his age esteemed him the supremely
best interpreter; Garrick knew the house when he was in Stratford in
1769 to conduct the Shakespeare Jubilee; and in later years it has
harbored scores of renowned persons from every part of the world.
Washington Irving, revered as the father of American literature, was a
lodger there in 1817, and wrote about it in his companionable “Sketch
Book,” and the parlor that he then occupied has ever since borne his
name and been embellished with picture and relic commemorative of
his visit. The pilgrim loses much benefit and pleasure by carelessly
speeding through the Shakespeare Country, as many excursionists do. It
is far better to repose in the Red Horse, or some other cozy retreat,
and spend many days in rambling about the neighborhood. To the lover of
the works of Shakespeare the experience is one of the most profitable
that life affords.

[Illustration: NEW PLACE, STRATFORD-UPON-AVON

The last residence of Shakespeare. Only the site now remains

From an Old Drawing]


STONELEIGH AND CHARLECOTE

In driving from Warwick to Stratford the traveler obtains a distant
glimpse of Stoneleigh Abbey, one of the fine baronial homes of England,
the residence of Lord Leigh, and at a certain stile, near Charlecote
House, the carriage is halted, so that the spacious park of Charlecote
can be crossed on foot by a passenger who may wish to see the place
where, as legend has long affirmed, Shakespeare killed the deer of Sir
Thomas Lucy, thereby incurring enmity and punishment. The story lacks
proof. No deer were kept by Sir Thomas at Charlecote,--though now they
are numerous there,--but they were kept by him at Fullbrook, a park
that he owned, not very far from Charlecote, and it is not impossible
that Shakespeare and his comrades, in the wildness of frolicsome youth,
did poach upon his preserves. Tradition, in all old English country
places, has, when tested, often been found entirely worthy of credence.


STRATFORD OLD AND NEW

The Stratford of the sixteenth century, though then nearly 300 years
old, was merely a village. The houses were chiefly of the one-story
kind, made of timber. The inhabitants were in number about 1,400:
indeed, the whole population of England was not so numerous as that of
London is now. If Shakespeare could revisit his old haunts, though he
would see the same green, rose-decked, and poppy-spangled countryside
that once he knew, and hear the ripple of the Avon softly flowing
between its grassy banks, he would miss many objects once familiar to
him, and he would be conscious of much change,--in many ways for the
better. Yet there are the paths in which he often trod; there is the
school in which he was taught; there is the garden of the mansion that
he once owned, and in which he died and there is the ancient church
that enshrines his tomb.

[Illustration: THOMAS NASH’S HOUSE, STRATFORD-UPON-AVON

Nash was the husband of Shakespeare’s only granddaughter. The house
stands next to New Place]

The Birthplace, as it is now designated, is a two-story cottage made
of timber and plaster, with dormer windows in its sloping, attic roof.
It was originally a finer house than most of its neighbors. Its age
is unknown. John Shakespeare, William’s father, bought it in 1556
and occupied it till his death, in 1601, when it became William’s
property by inheritance. By him it was bequeathed to his sister, Joan,
Mrs. William Hart. It has passed through many ownerships and has been
materially changed; but parts of it remain as originally they were,
particularly the room on the ground floor, in which there is a large
fireplace, with seats in the brick chimney jambs, and also the one
immediately above it, the best room in the house, in which, according
to ancient tradition, the poet was born. In that room there is a chair,
of the sixteenth century.

[Illustration: ROOM IN WHICH, ACCORDING TO TRADITION, SHAKESPEARE WAS
BORN]

The original window remains, a threefold casement, containing sixty
panes of glass, on which many visitors have scratched their names
with diamonds. No writing, on window or walls, is permitted now; but
in earlier times it was allowed, and it was customary. Sir Walter
Scott scratched his name on the window,--“W. Scott.” Byron wrote on
the ceiling, which is low, as also did Thackeray. Byron’s name has
disappeared. Dickens wrote on one of the walls. The names of many
actors, including those of Edmund Kean and Edwin Booth, are inscribed
on the chimney-jamb at the right of the fireplace. Booth was specially
requested to write his name there, “high up.” That jamb is called “The
Actors’ Pillar.”

The Birthplace was purchased for the nation in 1847--the American
museum and circus manager P. T. Barnum having alarmed England by
proposing to buy and remove it to America. New Place and Anne
Hathaway’s Cottage, at Shottery, about a mile west of Stratford, have
since then been purchased, and those properties are now administered as
a trust for the public.

[Illustration: THE HOME OF SHAKESPEARE’S MOTHER

The Mary Arden Cottage at Wilmcote, a little village near Stratford]

New Place, the finest mansion in the town when Shakespeare bought it,
was destroyed in 1759 by order of Rev. Thomas Gastrell, its owner at
that time, who had been annoyed by many visitors, thronging to see his
house and to sit under a mulberry tree in his garden, believed to have
been planted and reared by Shakespeare. The tree was cut down by Mr.
Gastrell; but a reputed “grandson” of it is growing there now. Nothing
remains of the building except its foundation, long buried, but later
exhumed, and now carefully preserved. The house was situated directly
opposite the Guild Chapel, a relic of the thirteenth century, and one
of the most venerable and pictorial of the towered churches of England.
Shakespeare hired two sittings in that church, and when he lived in New
Place he must have seen it almost continually. Next to the church is
the Grammar School, established in 1482, which there is every reason to
believe he attended in his boyhood. The building has been tastefully
“restored” to its original condition: the schoolroom has not been
altered.


ANNE HATHAWAY’S COTTAGE

[Illustration: ANNE HATHAWAY’S COTTAGE, SHOTTERY: FROM THE BROOK.]

The Hathaway Cottage, to which the flower-bordered path is an ancient
“right of way,” through gardens and meadows that Shakespeare must
often have traversed, is an exceptionally fine specimen of the
timber-crossed, thatch-roofed dwelling of the Tudor period. It stands
in a large garden, is shaded by tall trees, and is prettily clad with
woodbine, ivy, wild roses, and maiden’s blush. In one of the upper
chambers a large, antique, carved four-post bedstead is shown, as
having been used by Anne Hathaway. It is possible that William and Anne
lived in that cottage immediately after their marriage, which occurred
in 1582. He was eighteen, she was twenty-six. The bond (a document
required in those days to obtain authorization of wedlock) is preserved
and may be inspected in the Edgar Tower at Worcester, where I saw it in
1889. The actual record of their marriage is supposed to have perished
in a fire (before 1600) which, consuming the church of Ludington, a
village near Shottery, destroyed the registers of that parish.

[Illustration: From an Old Drawing

THE HOUSE IN WHICH SHAKESPEARE WAS BORN

At Stratford-upon-Avon]

[Illustration: From an Old Drawing

THE JUBILEE BOOTH

At Stratford-upon-Avon]

[Illustration: From an Old Drawing

THE BEAR GARDEN AND THE GLOBE THEATER IN LONDON

The first named at the extreme left of the picture and the second at
the extreme right]

Shakespeare was poor, when (1585) he went to London, and I venture the
conjecture that when he returned to Stratford he found his wife and
children dwelling at either the Hathaway Cottage or the home of his
friends Hamnet and Judith Sadler, after whom his latest born children,
Hamnet and Judith, twins, were named. The Hathaway Cottage seems
vitally associated with him, as is still another old timbered house,
the home of his mother, Mary Arden, which may be seen on the outskirts
of the village of Wilmcote, situated about four miles northwest of
Stratford,--an easy, pleasant walk.

[Illustration: THE AVENUE TO THE CHURCH

Stratford-upon-Avon]


THE COUNTRY ROUND ABOUT

Indeed, there is scarce an end to the variety of pleasant walks
feasible in the Shakespeare Country, and I have found it specially
suggestive of agreeable thoughts and feelings to stroll in many
directions and for many miles around Stratford, and to fancy the
presence of Shakespeare himself rambling, as probably his custom was,
over all the countryside. How else could he have gained the minute
knowledge that is manifested in his plays of Warwickshire names,
localities, characters, customs, and the many peculiarities of foliage
and flower that distinguish the Warwickshire clime? The “palm” that
_Orlando_ finds in the Forest of Arden in “As You Like It” is not
an oriental palm, but a tree so named that grows now and has always
grown on the banks of the Avon. “Christopher Sly, of Burton Heath” and
“Marian Hacket, the fat ale-wife of Wincot” are types of Warwickshire
peasantry, which no doubt Shakespeare saw. Barton Heath and Wincot are
places not distant from his home.

To trace the course of Shakespeare from his birth to his death, is to
gain knowledge and wisdom. It is wisely written by the poet Tennyson
that “Things seen are mightier than things heard.”


SUPPLEMENTARY READING

    SHAKESPEARE’S ENGLAND                           _By William Winter_
    A most interesting and beautifully illustrated book.

    HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS IN SHAKESPEARE’S COUNTRY      _By W. H. Hutton_
    With numerous illustrations by Edmund H. New.

    THE WARWICKSHIRE AVON                      _By A. T. Quiller-Couch_
    Illustrated by Alfred Parsons.

    SHAKESPEARE’S TOWN AND TIME       _By H. S. Ward and C. W. B. Ward_

    SHAKESPEARE’S LONDON                              _By T. F. Ordish_

    SHAKESPEARE’S LOVE STORY                         _By A. B. McMahon_

    RELIQUES OF STRATFORD-UPON-AVON             _Compiled by A. E. Way_

    SEEN AND UNSEEN AT STRATFORD-UPON-AVON           _By W. D. Howells_

    SHAKESPEARE AND STRATFORD                        _By H. C. Shelley_

⁂ Information concerning the above books may be had on application to
the Editor of the Mentor.



THE OPEN LETTER


[Illustration: STRATFORD ON AVON

Reproduced from W. H. Hutton’s “Highways and Byways in
Shakespeare’s Country.” Published by The MacMillan Co.]

The saying goes in theatrical circles that Shakespeare “doesn’t pay.”
And yet the editions of Shakespeare outnumber those of any other book
except the Bible, and many new editions appear each season. It seems
then that though we read Shakespeare we do not go to see his plays
performed. Apparently it pays a publisher to place Shakespeare on the
shelf, but it does not pay a producer to place him on the stage.

       *       *       *       *       *

I cannot accept this statement without qualification, for I have known
years--not far back--when Shakespeare was a regular and profitable
feature of the stage. My knowledge of Shakespeare on the stage began
with Edwin Booth, Lawrence Barrett, Henry Irving, John McCullough,
Salvini and the famous women, Modjeska, Ellen Terry, and others who
were their associates in dramatic art. In recent years I have listened
to Mantell, Mansfield, Sothern and Marlowe. I have seen some of these
players many times in their favorite roles. I am sure that there are
few modern plays compelling enough in interest to draw one to see them
more than a half dozen times. But it was a common thing a few years ago
to hear people say that they had seen Booth or Irving a dozen times in
a single role.

In those days Shakespeare was played not only with profit by the great
stars, but by stock-companies as well. Augustin Daly, during several
successive, and successful, years produced the Comedies with his strong
company. And these were not gala performances. They were steady going
attractions. In reckoning stage successes today, we consider a run of
100 nights a matter for celebration. In his time, Edwin Booth played
“Hamlet” for 100 nights in succession in one New York theater, and
Irving played “The Merchant of Venice” for the greater part of a whole
season. Runs of a single play of Shakespeare for several weeks were not
uncommon.

But still they say today that Shakespeare on the stage does not pay.
That means, of course, that we folks of today do not go to hear
Shakespeare. Why don’t we go? We did when Booth, Barrett, Irving and
Salvini played. And if Henry Irving should bring us today a production
of The Merchant of Venice such as he made familiar to the theater-goers
of his time, Shakespeare would pay again. If we do not go to hear
Shakespeare played it is because we want Shakespeare only when it is
produced and played _as well as Shakespeare reads_. When a man of
genius and imagination gives us Shakespeare as “big as we find him in
his plays,” we will surely go to hear him on the stage today--as our
parents did in former days, and as we did yesterday.

[Illustration: W. D. Moffat

EDITOR]



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