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Title: The Housekeeper's Valuable Present - Lady's Closet Companion
Author: Abbot, Robert
Language: English
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THE
HOUSEKEEPER’s
VALUABLE PRESENT:
Lady’s Closet Companion.
BEING A
NEW AND COMPLETE
ART OF PREPARING
CONFECTS,
ACCORDING TO
MODERN PRACTICE.
Comprized under the following Parts; viz.
I. Different Methods and Degrees of boiling
and clarifying Sugar.
II. Methods of preserving various Fruits in
Syrups, &c.
III. Methods of making Marmalades, Jams,
Pastes, &c.
IV. Methods of making Syrups, Custards,
Jellies, Blanch-mange, Conserves,
Syllabubs, &c.
V. Methods of preserving various Fruits in
Brandy.
VI. Methods of making a Variety of Biscuits,
rich Cakes, &c. &c.
VII. Methods of mixing, freezing, and working
Ice Creams.
VIII. Methods of preparing Cordials and made
Wines.
With a Variety of other useful and elegant Articles.
-------------------------------------------
BY ROBERT ABBOT,
Late apprentice to Messrs. NEGRI & GUNTER,
Confectioners, in Berkeley Square.
-------------------------------------------
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR;
And sold by C. COOKE, No. 17, Pater-noster Row;
and all other Booksellers in Town and Country.
[Price 2s. sewed, or 2s. 6d. neatly bound.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
PREFACE.
DURING the course of my apprenticeship with Messrs. NEGRI and GUNTER, in
_Berkeley Square_, many housekeepers to noblemen and gentlemen, on
special occasions, were frequently present, in order to observe our
_peculiar method_ of preparing confects.
Since I left Messrs. NEGRI and GUNTER, I have had frequent applications
from those persons, as well as others, for receipts and information
respecting improvements and additions to this art. But being engaged in
the service of several noblemen, and thereby deprived of the opportunity
of attending to the numerous applications from respective housekeepers
for _New Receipts_, I determined to form the following Treatise, that
they might present it to their friends; and that it might supply the
place of personal application, I have comprized in it every article that
is necessary to render the reader a proficient in the art.
From the nature of my occupation, and the time necessary to acquire a
due knowledge of it, I cannot be supposed qualified to write in a
masterly stile; and am therefore inclined to hope the candid reader will
be disposed to overlook any little errors that may be observed in this
Treatise, considering it not as the production of a scholar, but the
essay of a man, who has devoted the greater part of his life to the
pursuit of the art under consideration.
I presume my having served an apprenticeship to men of such eminence in
the line of Confectionary, and such respectability in their connections
as Messrs. NEGRI & GUNTER, that it will be considered as a
recommendation of the following sheets; and as all the Treatise I have
seen contain only old and exploded Receipts, render it necessary that
something new should appear on the subject; and as the receipts I have
given are the result of my own practice and experience, I think it will
add a sanction to the present undertaking.
Upon the whole, as I have not omitted any article that can be useful to
housekeepers in particular, and families in general, I trust I have not
arrogated to myself a right to which I have no claim, in prefixing to my
work the title of
THE HOUSEKEEPER’S VALUABLE PRESENT.
_R. ABBOT._
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CONTENTS.
PART I.
Page.
To clarify sugar 13
To boil sugar to the degree called 14
smooth
To boil sugar to the degree called 15
pearled
To boil sugar to the degree called blown 15
To boil sugar to the degree called 16
feathered
To boil sugar to the degree called 16
crackled
To boil sugar to the degree called 16
carmelled
PART II.
To preserve oranges or lemons whole 17
To preserve cherries without stones 18
To preserve cherries with stones 19
To preserve white pea plums 19
To preserve yellow plums commonly called 20
yellow margates
To preserve damascenes 21
To preserve mogul, or large egg plums 21
To preserve whole strawberries 22
To preserve barberries in bunches 23
To preserve red currants in bunches 23
To preserve green gage plums 24
To preserve green orange plums 25
To preserve apricots 25
To preserve green apricots 26
To preserve green gooseberries 27
To preserve angelica 28
To preserve apricot, or peach chips 28
To preserve figs 29
To preserve dried cherries 30
To preserve peaches whole 30
To preserve pine apple chips 31
To preserve pine apples whole 31
To preserve medlars 32
To preserve pears 33
To preserve green leaves 33
To preserve green grapes 34
To preserve wine sour plums 35
To preserve green limes 35
PART III.
Rasberry jam 36
Apricot jam 37
Peach jam 37
Pine apple jam 38
Barberry jam 38
Currant jam 39
Quince marmalade 39
Quince paste 39
Orange marmalade 40
Strawberry jam 40
Orange paste 41
Pippin paste knots 41
Scotch marmalade 42
Orgeat paste 42
Almond paste 42
Marshmallow paste 43
Strasbourgh paste, or lozenges 44
Black currant paste 44
PART IV.
To make capillaire 45
To make orgeat syrup 45
To make lemon syrup 46
Currant syrup 46
Marshmallow syrup 47
To make rasberry vinegar 47
To make grape essence, or syrup 48
To make orange essence 48
Pine apple syrup, or essence 49
To make currant jelly 49
To candy eringo root 50
To candy orange, or lemon peel 50
Black currant jelly 51
To make a compote of pippins 52
Compote of oranges 52
To make clear cakes of the jelly of any 53
fruit
Calves-foot jelly 53
Clear orange jelly 54
Blanch-mange 54
Ge-mange 54
To make lemonade 55
To make orgeat for present use 55
To make orangeade 56
To make orange prawlins 56
Red burnt almonds 56
Cedraty essence 57
To make a conserve of hips 58
Conserve of roses 58
Conserve of orange flowers 59
Rock candy 59
To make gum paste 60
Mulberry syrup 60
PART V.
Cherries in brandy 61
Apricots in brandy 61
Peaches in brandy 62
Mogul plums in brandy 62
Green gages in brandy 63
Pears in brandy 63
PART VI.
Savoy biscuits 64
Spunge biscuits 65
Palace royal biscuits 65
Royal heart biscuits 65
Diet bread cakes 66
Naple biscuits 66
Orange heart biscuits 66
Queen cakes 67
Champaign biscuits 67
Fine rusks 68
French rusks 68
Yarmouth cakes 68
Tunbridge water cakes 69
Cedraty biscuits 69
Italian cakes 69
Common maccaroons 70
French maccaroons 70
Ratafia biscuits 70
Orange biscuits 71
Spanish rusks 71
Merenges 71
Ginger cakes 72
Ginger bread nuts 72
Filbert biscuits 73
Sweetmeat biscuits 73
Rock almond biscuits 73
Syringe biscuits 74
Italian maccaroons 74
Milfruit biscuits 74
Marchpane biscuits 75
Biscuit drops 75
To make a savoy cake 75
To make a spunge cake 76
To make a plum cake 76
To make a rice cake 76
To make an almond cake 77
To make a ratafia cake 77
To make anniseed cakes 77
Cinnamon drop biscuits 78
PART VII.
Freezing of ice 79
To prepare the cochineal for colouring 81
different sorts of ice
Ice creams, or rasberry ice 81
Strawberry jam 81
Apricot ice 82
Pine apple ice 82
Barberry ice 82
Biscuit ice 82
Pistachia ice 83
Fresh gooseberry ice 83
Chocolate ice 83
Fresh rasberry ice 84
Fresh strawberry ice 84
Royal cream 84
Lemon cream 85
Orange cream 85
Burnt cream 85
Plain ice 85
Coffee ice 86
Tea ice 86
Ratafia ice 86
Vernella ice 86
Orange ice 87
Lemon ice 87
Cedraty ice 87
Grape ice 87
Rasberry water 88
Currant water 88
Cherry ice 88
Punch ice 89
Pear ice 89
PART VIII.
To make raisin alder wine 90
Orange wine 91
Damascene wine 91
Gooseberry wine 92
Cowslip wine 92
Birch wine 93
Rasberry wine 94
Blackberry wine 94
Cherry wine 94
Currant wine 95
To make raisin wine 95
To make sage wine 96
To make clear wine 96
To make mead 96
To make white mead 97
To make milk punch 97
To make citron water 97
Ratafia cordial 98
Orange flower brandy 98
Surfeit water 99
Cinnamon water 99
Nutmeg water 100
Mint water 100
Lemon water 100
[Illustration]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration]
THE
COMPLETE
CONFECTIONER.
-------
PART I.
DIFFERENT METHODS AND DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR.
_To clarify Sugar._
TAKE a pan proportioned in size to the quantity of sugar you intend to
clarify: to thirty pounds of sugar, put two gallons of water: whisk the
white of an egg in the water, and set the pan on the fire; when the
sugar begins to boil, add half a pint of water, to prevent its boiling
over, and also to raise the scum. Having skimmed the sugar till there
remains only a small white scum, totally different from the other, which
is foul and black, take it off, and strain it into the pan in which you
intend to keep it for use.
N.B. A particular attention to these rules, respecting the clarifying of
sugar, will greatly conduce to the effect of the directions, which will
be laid down hereafter.
_To boil Sugar to the Degree called_ SMOOTH.
HAVING first clarified, put the quantity of sugar required into the
preserving pan, and let it boil over the fire. You will ascertain its
having boiled to the degree called _smooth_, by the following
experiment: Dip your finger into the sugar; then put that finger and
your thumb together. If in opening them you see a small thread drawn,
which breaking immediately leaves a drop on the finger, you may conclude
the sugar is boiled to the degree called _smooth_.
_To boil Sugar to the Degree called_ PEARLED.
THIS method of boiling sugar is thus ascertained: Take a little of the
sugar when boiling, between your finger and thumb, and if on separation
a string adheres to both, it is boiled to the degree called _pearled_.
_To boil Sugar to the Degree called_ BLOWN.
LET the sugar boil longer than on the former occasion, and make the
following experiment: Dip the skimmer into the sugar; take it out
immediately; and if on blowing strongly through the holes of the
skimmer, little bladders appear, the sugar is boiled to the degree
called _blown_.
_To boil Sugar to the Degree called_ FEATHERED.
THIS is a higher degree of boiling sugar than either of the former. It
is proved thus: Having dipped the skimmer into the sugar, and shaken it
over the pan, give it a sudden flirt behind you, when, if it flies from
the skimmer in particles resembling feathers, it is boiled to this
degree.
_To boil Sugar to the Degree called_ CRACKLED.
THIS degree is ascertained in the following manner: The sugar having
boiled somewhat longer than on the former process; dip a skewer into it,
and immediately after into cold water; if on drawing the sugar from the
skewer it snaps like glass, it is boiled to the degree called
_crackled_.
_To boil Sugar to the Degree called_ CARMELLED.
THIS degree is thus ascertained: Having boiled the sugar longer still,
dip a skewer into it, and immediately after into cold water. If the
sugar be boiled to the degree called _carmelled_, it will snap the very
instant it touches the cold water, and must be taken off directly, to
prevent burning and discolouration.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
PART II.
METHODS OF PRESERVING FRUITS &c.
_To preserve Oranges or Lemons whole._
HAVING selected the largest and best coloured oranges, carve them, cut a
round hole in each, where the stalk grew; put them into a pan of cold
water, set them over the fire, and boil them till they become so soft
that you may thrust a straw through them, shifting the water twice
during the time of this boiling; then take them out, put them into cold
water, and let them remain till they become cold; after which scoop out
the cores with a spoon, put them again into cold water, and let them
there remain forty-eight hours, shifting the water during that space
four times: drain them when taken out, put them into the preserving pan,
cover them with clarified sugar, and then let them simmer over a fire
for about two hours: proceed in this manner for seven or eight days;
then drain them from the sugar, and having prepared a fresh quantity
boiled to the degree called _pearled_, put in the oranges, and having
boiled them for the space of an hour, set them by for use in an earthen
pan, or put them into glasses, and cover them with clarified sugar.
_To preserve Cherries without Stones._
FOR a pound of cherries prepare a pound of sugar boiled to the degree
called _blown_, into which put the cherries stoned, and having boiled
them well, set them by till the next day. Having then strained the
syrup, add some sugar and about three pints of currant juice to it, let
it boil about half an hour, put in the cherries, boil all together, skim
well, and afterwards set by for use.
_To preserve Cherries with Stones._
HAVING selected the finest morello fruit, and pricked each cherry with a
needle; put them into a thin clarified sugar, and let them simmer an
hour, or more, cautiously avoiding their coming to a boil. Proceed thus
for two or three days; then strain the sugar from them, and having added
more sugar with some currant juice, after a gentle boil and being well
skimmed, set them by for use.
_To preserve White Pea Plums._
SELECT your plums before they are too ripe, slit each of them in the
seam, scald them in clear water till they become tender, then put them
into cold water, in which having remained a whole night, drain, put them
into sugar boiled to the degree called _pearled_, and having simmered
therein twice or thrice a day for two days, drain the syrup and boil it
for an hour, adding to it about a quart of white currant juice. Then put
in your plums, let all boil together, and when cold they will be fit for
use.
_To preserve yellow Plums commonly called yellow Margates._
HAVING made choice of your plums just before they become ripe, and
prepared as much sugar to the degree called _blown_, as will handsomely
cover them, put them in, and giving them a gentle boil, set them by till
next day and give them another boil. The day following drain them, and
having boiled the syrup to the degree called _pearled_, put in the
plums, and let all boil together, when they will be fit for drying, or
putting into pots.
N.B. You may scald and take the skins off the plums before you preserve
them.
_To preserve Damascenes._
HAVING pricked the intended quantity, put them into a preserving pan
with as much sugar as will cover them; give them one good boil, take
them off and let them stand a day; on the morrow, simmer them four or
five times, and thus let them remain three or four days; then drain the
syrup, and adding more sugar, boil it well, put in the damascenes, give
all a good boil, skim well and set by for use.
_To preserve Mogul, or large Egg Plums._
HAVING pricked your plums, put them into cold water with three or four
handfulls of salt in it, and there letting them remain four days, scald
them in clear water till they become tender; put them into a thin sugar,
and give them a gentle boil. This done, put them by, and the next day
let them simmer, and so proceed for five or six days, till you perceive
the syrup becomes thick, when it will be proper to drain and add more
sugar; boil till it is ropy, then you may put in your plums; give them a
gentle boil and set by for use.
N.B. You must keep the plums under the syrup in your preserving pan by
putting a piece of board over them.
_To preserve whole Strawberries._
PREPARE as much sugar as will cover the intended quantity to the degree
called _blown_, into which put the strawberries; gently boil and set
them by; the next day drain them and boil the syrup till it becomes ropy
or _pearled_, then put in the strawberries, give them a gentle boil,
skim them well, and put them into pots.
N.B. Rasberries are preserved in the same manner; but it is recommended
to put some jelly drawn from gooseberries, or white currants, into the
syrup.
_To preserve Barberries in Bunches._
HAVING prepared a sufficient quantity of sugar to the degree called
_blown_, put in the barberries tied in small bunches, let them boil
well, then skim, and set them by for use.
_To preserve Red Currants in Bunches._
PREPARE as much sugar to the degree called _pearled_, as will cover
them, into which put them, and give them a gentle boil: then next drain
them, and adding a little more sugar, and some juice extracted from red
currants, give the whole a good boil; skim them well, and they will be
fit for use.
N.B. White currants are preserved in the same manner, adding only white
currant juice to the syrup.
_To preserve Green Gage Plums._
FIRST prick your plums well with a needle, and having laid them in salt
and water, for eight and forty hours, scald them in pump water till they
become tender, after which put them in cold water, and there let them
remain till they are cool; then drain and pack them in single layers in
your preserving pan; and give them a gentle heat once a day, for three
days; this done, drain them, add some more sugar boiled to the degree of
what is called _pearled_; then put them in and give them a heat, but not
so far as to boil: proceed in this manner for two or three days, till
you perceive the syrup becomes thick, then drain them, strain the syrup,
boil it to a good height, put in your plums, give the whole a gentle
boil, set them by in pans, and they are ready for drying out or putting
into jelly.
_To preserve Green Orange Plums._
THE manner is the same as that prescribed with respect to the green
gages: but care must be taken to cover these plums with a paper every
time they are heated, as an effectual means of keeping in the steam and
preserving the green hue: the same method should be observed as to green
fruit in general.
_To preserve Apricots._
HAVING taken the stones out, and cut your fruit in halves, scald them
till they are tender, and put them into cold water: then drain, put them
into a thin sugar, give them a gentle heat and set them by: the next
day, drain the syrup from them, let it boil well and afterwards put in
the fruit: let the whole simmer well together; and thus proceed from day
to day, till the apricots are duly prepared, which may be known from the
consistence of the syrup.
N.B. The Roman apricot is the best to preserve, and the orange apricot
the best for jam.
_To preserve Green Apricots._
TAKE the fruit when you can thrust a pin through the stone: prick them,
and scald them till they are tender; then having drained, and put them
into a thin syrup, let them simmer for half an hour every day, for a
week: this done, drain them, boil some sugar to the degree called
_blown_, to which add the syrup, and boiling it well, put in the fruit;
let all boil together and set by. The next day, drain it, boil the syrup
higher, put in the fruit, and boil till you perceive the syrup hang like
a thread from the skimmer: the fruit are then fit for drying, or putting
in jelly.
N.B. Green almonds are preserved in the same manner; but they should be
scalded in soft water to take the down off.
_To preserve Green Gooseberries._
LET the gooseberries be gathered before they are ripe, and scalded till
they become yellow: then put them into cold water, and having remained
twelve hours, put them into a very thin sugar, and heat them gently over
the fire, till you perceive they begin to be green; after which drain
the syrup from them, and boil it to the degree called _pearled_: put in
your fruit, and having boiled all together, set by. Proceed in this
manner for two, or three days, and the gooseberries will be fit for use.
_To preserve Angelica._
TAKE the angelica when young, split it into thin strips, and having
scalded it till it becomes very tender, string it, put it into the
preserving pan and cover it with sugar; in this state give it a gentle
heat once a day, for four or five days, and when you perceive it become
quite green, drain it and add some more sugar: having boiled it till it
becomes ropy, put in your angelica and boil it up well; then put it by,
and when it has lain in the syrup about five weeks, it will be fit to
cand.
_To preserve Apricot, or Peach Chips._
PARE the rind of the fruit into chips of the size of a shilling: to
every pound of chips, allow a pound and a half of sugar, in which boil
the chips; and having set them by for two days, drain them from the
syrup, and boil it to the degree called _blown_; then put in the chips,
let them boil well, and having set them by for a week, drain and wash
them in cold water, and put them in sieves into the store, first sifting
some sugar on them, and dry them well.
_To preserve Figs._
HAVING pricked your figs through and through, put them into the
preserving pan, cover them with sugar, give them a gentle boil, and set
them by. The next day drain them, and having boiled the syrup, put in
the figs and set them by for two days: then drain them, add more sugar
to the syrup, and having boiled it to a high degree, put in the figs,
and let the whole boil up well together; proceed in this manner every
other day for a week, by which time the sugar will have penetrated into
the fruit: then drain them, and boil the syrup till it ropes, or hangs
in strings from the skimmer: put in the figs, boil well up, skim and set
them by for use.
_To preserve dried Cherries._
STONE the Kentish cherries, and put as much sugar into the preserving
pan, as will cover them: having boiled the sugar till it cracks, put in
the cherries, give them a good boil, skim, and set them by in an earthen
pan till next day: then drain, and put them on sieves in a hot stove,
and turn them; they will take three days drying, and when dry, will keep
two or three years.
_To preserve Peaches whole._
TAKE the Newington peaches before they are ripe, scald them till they
are tender, put them into as much sugar as will cover them, give them a
gentle boil, and set them by till the next day: then drain them from the
syrup, which having boiled with an additional quantity of sugar to the
degree called _blown_, put in the peaches, and after simmering set them
by for a week; then drain the syrup from them, and boiling it higher
than before, put in the peaches, and let all boil gently together for an
hour, by which time, if you find the sugar has penetrated the fruit, you
may skim and set them by for use.
_To preserve Pine Apple Chips._
HAVING taken off the outside of the pine apple; cut it cross-ways into
thin slices, which put in layers into an earthen pan, sifting sugar over
each layer, let all stand for about ten days, in which time, if melted,
put it together into a preserving pan, and boil it up twice a day for
three days, and set them by for drying.
_To preserve Pine Apples whole._
TAKE the pine apple just before it becomes ripe, let the top remain on
it. Having perforated it with a penknife, scald it till it becomes so
tender, that a straw may be thrust through it. Let it then remain in
cold water two hours, and in that state be put into a jar, with sugar
strewed over it, boiled to the degree called _smooth_, and covered close
down: the next day drain the syrup and boil it up, and in this manner
proceed every day, till the water is extracted from the pine. As the
syrup by that means will be rendered thin, you will add more sugar and
boil it up to a high degree, and set the pine by for a fortnight, when
if you perceive the syrup is thick, you may depend upon it the pine is
properly preserved, and therefore may take it out of that syrup and put
it into a clarified syrup in a glass, in which it will keep good seven
years, if unaffected by damp or wet.
_To preserve Medlars._
HAVING scalded the fruit till the skins are easily taken off; stone them
at the head, cover them with sugar, give them a gentle boil, and let
them stand for two days: then drain them, and boiling the syrup till it
becomes ropy, put in the medlars, let all boil up gently, and set by for
use.
_To preserve Pears._
Prick the pears through in six places, scald them till they are tender,
cut the rind smoothly off, put them into cold water with some allum in
it to keep them white, and having remained in that state three hours,
shift them into a thin sugar, and give them a gentle heat every day for
three or four days; then drain them; and having added some sugar to the
syrup, and boiled it to the degree called _pearled_, put in the pears,
and boil all up together: proceed in this manner, till the syrup becomes
thick, then colour some of the pears red, and set them by.
_To preserve Green Leaves._
TAKE grape leaves, strawberry leaves, or any other leaves: let them
remain four hours in cold spring water, then take them out and put them
into some sugar, give them a gentle boil, take them off, and set them by
for use.
N.B. They are convenient for putting under fruit in plates.
_To preserve Green Grapes._
HAVING selected the largest and best grapes before ripe, cut a small
slit in each, and scald them; after remaining two days in the water they
are scalded in, drain, put them into a thin sugar; give them a heat over
a slow fire, and thus proceed for three days: then drain them, and
adding to the syrup some sugar, boiled to the highest degree of what is
called _blown_, put in the grapes, and let all boil up together; skim
well, and set them by for use.
_To preserve Wine Sour Plums._
THESE plums are the best species for preserving, on account of their
tartness, and should be treated in the same manner as damascenes, only
they will require from their size a longer time in preparation.
_To preserve Green Limes._
HAVING scalded the limes till they are tender, and taken out the cores,
put them into a thin sugar, and give them a gentle boil: then set them
by and give them a gentle heat three times for three days, by which time
they will become as green as grass: having boiled the syrup till it
become ropy, put in the limes, boil up all together, and the fruit will
be fit for use.
N.B. Green walnuts, or jerkins, may be treated in the same manner as
limes; and quinces in halves and quarters, in the same manner as pears;
as there are several species of plums, and pears, that will not
preserve, we recommend the following experiments: put a few plums into a
little clarified sugar, and give them a heat over a gentle fire: if they
seem to melt in the sugar they will not preserve, if they remain firm
they certainly will, provided you adhere to the rules laid down.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
PART III.
METHODS OF MAKING MARMALADES, JAMS, PASTES, &c.
_Rasberry Jam._
RUB your rasberries through a sieve to a pulp: then measure it with a
pint ladle (which is exactly a pound) into your preserving pan: boil it
well, and stir it all the time to keep it from burning: to a pound of
pulp, allow three quarters of sugar; when it has boiled till it becomes
tolerably stiff, put in the sugar sifted fine, and boil it up well for
half an hour: then put it into pots.
_Apricot Jam._
BOIL your apricots to a pulp, then rub it through a sieve: to a pound of
pulp, allow a pound of sugar and two ounces of bitter almonds pounded
fine: dry the pulp well over the fire: then put in the sugar and
almonds: boil all together for about an hour, and then it will be fit
for use.
_Peach Jam._
PROCEED with this in the same manner as above, but allow one pound and a
quarter of clarified sugar to a pound of pulp. Boil the sugar to the
degree called _blown_, then put in the pulp, and boil it till it just
drops off the skimmer.
N.B. You should be careful to keep stirring this, and all other jams,
while they are boiling.
_Pine Apple Jam._
CUT your pine apple into slices: cover it with powder sugar, and let it
stand a fortnight; then pounding it in a mortar till it is fine, pulp it
through a sieve; to a pound of pulp, allow half a pound of clarified
sugar, boil the sugar to the degree called _blown_, and finish it in the
same manner as peach jam.
_Barberry Jam._
PUT your barberries into the oven till they become thoroughly hot, then
pass them through a sieve. To a pound of pulp, allow a pound and a
quarter of sugar sifted fine. Boil the pulp till one half is consumed,
then put in the sugar, mix it well, and put it into pots.
_Currant Jam._
TAKE the currant pulp when you have strained the liquor from it for
jelly. To a pound of pulp, allow a pound of sifted sugar. Boil the pulp
well; then put in the sugar, and boil it all for about half an hour, and
it will be fit for use.
N.B. The quicker your fire is for all red fruit, the better will be the
colour.
_Quince Marmalade._
PARE your quinces and cover them: then boil them till tender, and pulp
them through a sieve, with half the quantity of apples boiled in the
same manner. To a pound of pulp, allow a pound and a quarter of
clarified sugar: boil the sugar to the degree called _blown_, then put
in the pulp, and boil it all for about half an hour, then put it into
pots.
_Quince Paste._
THE pulp being prepared in the manner abovementioned; allow a pound of
sugar and boil it till it cracks: then put in the pulp, and having
boiled it for a quarter of an hour, put it in pots, into the stove, and
in about three or four hours you may turn them out; cut them into
quarters, and dry them.
N.B. You must keep your stove in a temperate heat.
_Orange Marmalade._
BOIL the seville orange-peel till it is tender, and take the white from
it; lay it in water all night, to take the bitterness off, then pound
and pulp it through a sieve. To a pound of pulp, allow a pound of the
best moist sugar; boil the pulp till it is near one half consumed, then
put in the sugar; boil it all together for half an hour, and put it into
pots.
_Strawberry Jam._
THIS is made after the manner of the rasberry, except allowing to a
pound of pulp, one pound of sugar. Be careful to boil it stiffer than
any other jam.
_Orange Paste._
PULP your oranges with apple mixed with it. To a pound of pulp, allow a
pound and a quarter of sugar: boil the sugar till it cracks; then put in
the pulp, and boil it over a quick fire, stirring it all the time for
about twenty minutes, then put it into tins made for the purpose, and
dry them in the stove.
_Pippin Paste Knots._
BOIL your apples tender, and pulp them; to a pound of pulp, allowing a
pound of sugar: boil it till it cracks, then put in the pulp, and
boiling all together for ten minutes, run it on pewter plates, put it in
the stove, and when dry, cut it into strips, make it up into knots, and
dry them on sieves.
N.B. If you would colour them red, put in some prepared cochineal.
_Scotch Marmalade._
WHEN you make your orange marmalade, put a little by; then cut some
orange-peel into fine strips, and giving them a boil in a little
clarified sugar, mix them in the marmalade, and put them into pots.
_Orgeat Paste._
CALCINE a pound of Jordan almonds, and four ounces of bitter almonds,
with water, and a little orange flower water: boil a pound and an half
of clarified sugar to the degree called _blown_, then put in your
almonds, boil all together for a quarter of an hour, and put it into
pots.
_Almond Paste._
TO a pound of almonds calcined, allow two pounds of sugar sifted fine;
pound the almonds with a little orange flower and rose water; put the
paste into a preserving pan, dry it on the fire till it becomes stiff;
put in the sugar and stir it till you perceive it will not stick to your
finger; then put it on a marble, and roll it up in a lump for use.
_Marshmallow Paste._
TAKE a pound and a half of gum arabic, a pound of fine sugar, and six
ounces of marshmallow root; pound the gum and sugar very fine, and put
them into your preserving pan with half a pint of orange flower water
and rose water mixed: then boil your marshmallow-root in a quart of
water, drain the liquor, and put that to it: set it on a slow fire, and
stir it till it becomes in some degree stiff, then put in the whites of
twelve eggs, and stirring it till it becomes quite stiff, turn it out on
a marble stone, and, when cold, cut it into square pieces, and put them
in boxes.
_Strasbourgh Paste, or Lozenges._
BOIL a pound of clarified sugar, and two ounces of honey to a carmel
height; then pour it on a marble stone, and before it becomes cold mark
it in squares, and when cold break it in pieces, and keep it in boxes
secure from damp.
_Black Currant Paste._
BOIL your black currants to a pulp. To a pound of pulp, allow half a
pound of apple pulp: dry that on a slow fire, then put in a pound of
sugar boiled to a crack, mix it well, then run it on pewter plates, put
it in the stove, and when dry, cut it in small square pieces, and dry
them.
[Illustration]
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PART IV.
OF SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES, &c.
_To make Capillaire._
TAKE twelve pints of clarified sugar; to which add one pint of good
orange flower water, and the juice of eight good lemons; set it on a
slow fire, and put in a pint of water with the whites of four eggs
whisked: let it boil, and skim all the scum that rises, then strain it
through a lawn sieve, or flannel bag, and put it into bottles.
_To make Orgeat Syrup._
CALCINE a pound of blanched Jordan almonds, and a few bitter ones, mixed
with a little orange flower water; then put in two quarts of water,
strain all through a fine lawn sieve, or cloth; put what is strained
into seven pints of sugar, boiled to the degree called _cracked_. Let it
simmer for ten minutes, skim it well, and when cold put it in bottles.
_To make Lemon Syrup._
BOIL six pints of sugar, to the degree called _blown_, add the juice of
twenty good lemons and the rind of two; clarify in the same manner as
the capillaire.
N.B. Orange syrup is made in the same manner, except in allowing to six
oranges the juice of two lemons.
_Currant Syrup._
MASH your currants, and let them be all night over a sieve to drain;
strain the liquor through a flannel bag; to a pint of liquor, put a
pound and a half of sugar: boil the sugar to the degree called _blown_,
then put the liquor in, and boil all till the scum is entirely off, and
put it into bottles.
Damascene syrup is made in the same manner.
_Marshmallow Syrup._
TAKE one pound of marshmallow root, and put to it a gallon of water;
reduce it on a slow fire to three pints, then strain it, and put it into
a preserving pan, with seven pints of sugar, and three pints of clear
water; clarify in the same manner as capillaire.
_To make Rasberry Vinegar._
EXTRACT a liquor from the rasberries, in the same manner as from
currants: to a pint of liquor, add two pounds of clarified sugar, and a
pint of the best white wine vinegar: boil all over a slow fire till the
scum is taken off, and, when cold, put it in bottles.
_To make Grape Essence, or Syrup._
TO half a pound of good dry elder flowers, put three quarts of boiling
water; let it stand close covered two hours; then strain it through a
lawn sieve, and put to it the juice of twelve good lemons; boil ten
pints of sugar to the degree called _blown_; put in the liquor, and boil
till the scum is entirely off; then strain it through a lawn sieve, and
put it into bottles.
_To make Orange Essence._
GRATE half a hundred of oranges, and put into your preserving pan, add
ten pounds of sugar, and the juice of the oranges with the juice of
twelve lemons. Boil all till it becomes tolerably thick, then put it in
a stone jar for use.
N.B. You will find this exceedingly useful in making of ice in the
summer time, when oranges are not to be had.
_Pine Apple Syrup, or Essence._
DRAIN the syrup from the chips, and clarify in the same manner as you
would a pan of sugar; put in the juice of a few lemons.
_To make Currant Jelly._
YOUR currants being mashed on the fire, put them on a sieve all night to
drain; then strain the liquor through a flannel bag: to a pint of
liquor, allow three quarters of sugar; boil the sugar to the degree
called _crackled_, then put in the liquor, and boil all till it jellies,
which you may know by its hanging in flakes from the skimmer: be careful
to skim it well.
N.B. If your jelly is for glasses, use half white currants and half red,
and it will not look of too dark a colour.
Apple jelly, rasberry jelly, or jelly from any other fruit, may be made
in a similar manner.
_To Candy Eringo Root._
TAKE the roots pared and boiled to a proper softness, and put them into
some sugar boiled _smooth_; then simmer them three times a day for three
days; let them lay a month in the syrup, and when you cand them, boil
some sugar to the degree called _blown_, and put them into it; let them
remain about five minutes, and grain the sugar by rubbing it up the
sides of the pan, then take them out, and lay them on sieves in a gentle
stove.
_To Cand Orange, or Lemon Peel._
BOIL your peel tender, and take out the inside pith; lay them in cold
water for a whole night, to take the bitterness off; pack them one
within the other, in your preserving pan, cover them with clarified
sugar, and let them boil gently for two hours every day for a week, then
take them out and pack them in a jar, or cask; put more sugar to the
syrup, boil it to a good height, pour it over the peels, and let them
remain full a month; then drain the syrup from them, three or four
different times, and they will be fit to cand, which you may do as
follows:
Take them out of the syrup, and wash them in warm water; dry them in the
stove, and put them into as much sugar, boiled to the degree called
_blown_, as will cover them: boil them in the sugar to the same degree;
then grain the sugar, take the peels out immediately, put them on a wire
sieve, and when cold, they are fit for use.
Candied citron, orange, and lemon chips, are prepared exactly in the
same manner.
_Black Currant Jelly._
MASH your black currants on the fire and pulp them; to a pound of pulp,
allow a pound of sugar; boil the sugar till it cracks, then put in the
pulp, and boil all till it begins to jelly.
_To make a Comport of Pippins._
PARE your pippins neatly, then take the cores out right down the middle,
after that, scald your pippins till tender, put then into clarified
sugar with a few cloves, a little mace, and the rind of a lemon, with
the juice of four: let them simmer very gently for two hours, and when
cold; they are fit to serve up to table.
Pears are done in the same manner, and you may colour them, as you do
preserved quinces.
_Comport of Oranges._
CARVE your oranges neatly, cut them into eight parts, scald them tender,
put them into clarified sugar with the juice of three or four oranges,
let them simmer gently for two hours, then add half a pint of mountain
wine, and when cold serve them up to table.
_To make Clear Cakes of the Jelly of any Fruit._
TO half a pint of jelly, allow six ounces of sugar to a high degree of
_blown_, then put in the jelly, and let it simmer but not boil; skim it
well, put it into pots, and dry it in the same manner as quince paste.
_Calves-Foot Jelly._
TAKE two calves-feet ready cleaned, put to them six quarts of water;
boil it on the fire till it is reduced to three, then strain, and put to
it the juice of twelve lemons, the whites of eight eggs, a little
cinnamon, a few corianders, and a little sugar; whisk all together, set
it on the fire, and let it boil with half a pint of mountain in it, then
strain it three times through a jelly bag, and put it in glasses.
_Clear Orange Jelly._
RASP the rind of your oranges, and squeezing six or eight oranges, and
the juice of three lemons with four ounces of isinglass, whisk the
whites of five eggs among it, and let it boil, then strain it through a
lawn sieve, put it into moulds; allow to this quantity, six ounces of
sugar.
_Blanch Mange._
POUND four ounces of almonds with a few bitter ones, and a little orange
flower water, fine; mix them in a pint of cream, and half a pint of
milk, put in six ounces of isinglass, and a quarter of a pound of sugar;
boil all together till the isinglass is consumed, then strain, and put
it into moulds.
_Ge Mange._
SQUEEZE the juice of six oranges, and rasp the rinds of two, put it into
a pint and a half of cream, with a little sugar, add to that about four
ounces of isinglass; boil it till it is dissolved, put in a little
saffron as it is boiling, and set it by in moulds.
_To make Lemonade._
TO half a pint of clarified sugar, put the juice of five lemons, and
rasp the rind of one, add to this a pint of spring water, then pass it
through a lawn sieve, and set it by for use.
_To make Orgeat for present Use._
POUND four ounces of blanched almonds very fine, with a few bitter ones,
and a little water, mix with that a quart of clear spring water, and a
table spoonful of orange flower water: sweeten to your palate, and
strain it through a lawn sieve for use.
_To make Orangeade._
TO half a pint of sugar, put the juice of five oranges and two lemons:
rasp the rind of one orange, add a pint of clear water, and strain it
off for use.
_To make Orange Prawlins._
QUARTER your oranges, take the white out of the rind; cut them into thin
strips, put them into your preserving pan, with just sufficient sugar to
cover the bottom of the pan: let them boil till you perceive the sugar
becomes thick, then take them off and stir them till the sugar grains
and sticks to them. Lift the loose sugar from them, and set them by for
use.
N.B. Lemon prawlins and orange flowers are prepared exactly in the same
manner.
_Red Burnt Almonds._
TAKE a pound of the best Jordan almonds, put them into a round bottom
preserving pan, with a pint of clarified sugar, let it boil till the
sugar comes to the degree called _blown_, and the almonds begin to
crack: then take them off, and stir till they begin to cool; when the
almonds clog to the sugar; lift the loose sugar from them, put in a pint
of clarified sugar with the loose sugar, and boil it till it cracks;
then put in the almonds, and stir them as before: sift them and part
those that are coupled, boil a pint more of clarified sugar till it
cracks, put in the almonds, and stir them till the sugar clings round
them; then, put in a gill of cochineal, and shake them over the fire
till they become dry: sift them, and put them in a gentle stove for two
or three hours.
Brown burnt almonds are prepared in a similar manner.
_Cedraty Essence._
WEIGH a pound of cedraty essence, boil seven pints of clarified sugar to
the degree called _blown_, then put in the essence, and the juice of
twenty lemons: boil all together for about half an hour; skim it well,
and when cold, put it into bottles.
_To make a Conserve of Hips._
TAKE two pounds of hips, stone them and lay them a whole night in spring
water; then pound them to a mash, and put them into three pints of
clarified sugar, boiled to the degree called _blown_: give all together
a good boil, and set them by for use.
_Conserve of Roses._
TAKE a quarter of a pound of damask rose leaves, beat up a pound of
coarse sifted sugar, with the whites of three eggs, put in the rose
leaves, and mix them; then roll them up in small balls on paper, and set
them in the stove to dry.
N.B. You may put in a little cochineal to colour it.
_Conserve of Orange Flowers._
BOIL a pint of sugar to a high degree, put in a quarter of a pound of
orange flowers; boil it to the same degree again, then rub the sugar
till it grains; pour it immediately on a marble stone, and when cold,
break it into pieces.
_Rock Candy._
TAKE different shapes, cut out of gum paste, or you must candy pippin
paste knots; let them be very dry, then put them in a square tin box in
layers, with a wire between each layer; fill the tin up with sugar,
boiled to a strong degree; set it in the hot stove; the next day, drain
it, take them out and put them on sieves in the stove to dry.
N.B. In this manner you may candy violets, or any other flower; but be
careful they are very dry, else they will not take the sugar.
_To make Gum Paste._
TAKE some gum tragant, and soak it in water, then squeeze it through a
cloth, put it into the mortar, and pound it with fine sugar, sifted
fine; then take it out, and mix it up with sugar till it becomes stiff.
_Mulberry Syrup._
SQUEEZE your mulberries: to a pint of fruit, put a pound of sugar; let
it dissolve all night, then boil it up to a good height, with the juice
of four lemons; skim it well, and put it in bottles for use.
[Illustration]
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PART V.
FRUITS IN BRANDY.
_Cherries in Brandy._
PUT your cherries into jars, and to a quart of French brandy, allow half
a pint of clarified sugar: mix your sugar and brandy, cover the cherries
with it, let them stand a month, then fill the jars again, and cover
them up for use.
N.B. The morello cherries are the most proper, and you may infuse
rasberries, or mulberries, in the same manner.
_Apricots in Brandy._
TAKE a pan and half, fill it with pump water, put in a little clarified
sugar; then put in your apricots, and scald them till tender; put them
into cold water with a piece of allum in it; let them lay in that state
for two hours till quite cold; put them in jars, and cover them with
white French brandy: to two quarts of brandy, allow three pints of
clarified sugar.
_Peaches in Brandy._
WIPE the down off your peaches, prick them with a small knife in three
places, scald them in some water, with the juice of three or four lemons
in it; then take them out, put them in jars, and cover them with white
brandy: to two quarts of brandy, put three pints of clarified sugar.
_Mogul Plums in Brandy._
TAKE your mogul plums when they are half preserved, drain them dry, put
them in jars and cover them with brandy. To a quart of brandy, allow
half a pint of clarified sugar.
_Green Gages in Brandy._
These are prepared in the same manner as any green plum.
_Pears in Brandy._
SCALD your pears tender, with some lemon juice in the water: put them
into cold water and pare the rind off; lay them in allum and water all
night, to keep them white; then drain and put them into jars: to a quart
of brandy, allow a pint of clarified sugar.
[Illustration]
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PART VI.
METHODS OF MAKING BISCUITS AND CAKES.
It is here necessary to premise that particular care must be taken to
keep the utensils entirely free from grease of any kind: and the flour
and sugar quite dry, as in case of neglect you cannot make good
biscuits.
_Savoy Biscuits._
TAKE one pound and a half of sugar, one pound and two ounces of flour,
and twenty four eggs: separate the yolks from the whites, beat the yolks
and sugar together with a spoon: whisk the whites up stiff, and mix with
the yolks; whisk it all on a slow fire till warm, then take it off and
whisk it till cold; mix in the flour, and drop them through a funnel
made for the purpose.
N.B. They require a hot oven, and you should sift a little sugar over
them, just before you put them in.
_Spunge Biscuits._
TAKE one pound of sugar, and three quarters of flour, and mix in the
same manner as the savoy biscuits: these will not require so hot an oven
as the former.
_Palace Royal Biscuits._
ARE made in the same manner as savoy biscuits, and are baked in small
paper boxes.
_Royal Heart Biscuits._
TO a pound of almonds beat fine, put a pound and a half of sugar, half a
pound of flour, sixteen whole eggs, and twelve yolks. Beat the sugar and
almonds up well by degrees with the eggs; then put in the flour, and set
it into moles, they will require a gentle oven.
_Diet Bread Cakes._
TAKE one pound of moist sugar, one pound and a quarter of flour, and
seven eggs: let your sugar boil with better than half a pint of water;
then whisk your eggs and sugar up well: take it off, and whisk it till
it is cold, then mix in your flour, and put it into moles.
_Naple Biscuits._
ARE made in the same manner as diet bread, but add a little more flour.
_Orange Heart Biscuits._
TAKE one pound and a half of sugar, three quarters of a pound of flour,
one pound and a half of yolks of eggs, eight preserved orange peels, and
two ounces of almonds; pound your peels and almonds fine, then beat it
up and proceed in the same manner as in making the royal heart biscuits.
_Queen Cakes._
TAKE one pound and a quarter of flour, one pound of sugar, and one pound
of butter, a quarter of a pound of currants, and eight eggs: cream your
butter, and beat it up with the eggs and sugar, then put in the flour
and currants.
_Champaign Biscuits._
TAKE the whites of eight eggs with some flour, and half a pound of
butter; beat the eggs and sugar together: melt the butter, and beat it
up; then put in the flour and a few carraway seeds: fold a paper up in
the form of a fan, and drop them in the ridges: they will require a hot
oven.
_Fine Rusks._
MAKE a good diet bread paste, bake it in long tins; when cold, cut it in
slices, and brown them in the oven: put a few carraway seeds in the
paste.
_French Rusks._
TAKE three pounds of sugar, four pounds of flour, and two pounds of
yolks of eggs: beat the sugar and yolks together, then mix in the flour,
and roll it up in long rolls; bake it, and when cold, cut it into thin
slices.
_Yarmouth Cakes._
TAKE one pound and a half of flour, one pound of sugar, and one pound of
butter, six ounces of currants, and six eggs: beat the eggs and sugar
together, melt the butter, and mix it and the flour up to stiff paste:
part it half for plums, and half for seed; then roll it out, cut it into
round shapes, and bake them in a gentle oven.
_Tunbridge Water Cakes._
TAKE one pound of flour, one pound of butter, three quarters of a pound
of sugar, half a pint of cream, and four eggs: mix the eggs, sugar, and
cream together, put in the butter melted, and beat it up well; then mix
in the flour, and a few carraway seeds, roll the part out quite thin;
cut it into round cakes, and bake them in a slow oven.
_Cedraty Biscuits._
TAKE one pound and three quarters of sugar, half a pound of yolks, and
three quarters of a pound of butter: mix these together, then roll them
up with as much flour as is necessary to stiffen it: make them into
round rings, and bake them.
_Italian Cakes._
TAKE the whites of twelve eggs with some flour and sugar; whisk the eggs
and sugar over the fire, till hot; then take it off, and whisk it till
it is quite cold, and put in the flour: drop them in round cakes on
paper, and bake them.
_Common Maccaroons._
TAKE one pound of almonds, one pound of sugar, and the whites of ten
eggs, and a little rose water: pound your almonds with the whites, and
rose water; then mix in the sugar, and lay them out on wafer paper.
_French Maccaroons._
TO a pound of almonds, allow two pounds of sugar mixed in the same way,
and laid out in the same manner.
_Ratafia Biscuits._
TAKE half a pound of sweet almonds, and half a pound of bitter: pound
them fine, mixed with whites of eggs, then add two pounds and a half of
sugar; beat it up well with whites of eggs, then drop them on paper, and
bake them in a slow oven.
_Orange Biscuits._
MIX one pound of almonds, with two pounds of sugar in the same manner as
ratafia biscuits; but rasp the rind of eight China oranges among it, and
drop them in small drops.
Lemon biscuits are made in the same manner.
_Spanish Rusks._
TAKE half a pound of yolks, half a pound of sugar, and half a pound of
flour; two ounces of butter, two lemons rasped, and a glass of brandy:
mix all together, then roll it up stiff, and make it in rings, and bake
them.
_Merenges._
TAKE a pint of sugar, and the whites of six eggs; boil the sugar to the
degree called _blown_, then grain it, and mix in the whites whisked
stiff: lay them out in oval shapes, and brown them in the oven, put a
piece of barberry jam in between, and put two halves together.
_Ginger Cakes._
TAKE one pound of butter, three pounds of flour, one pound of sugar; a
pint of cream, and five eggs: beat the eggs, cream, and sugar together;
melt the butter and put it in, then mix in the flour with a few carraway
seeds, and six ounces of ginger; roll them thin, and bake them in a slow
oven.
_Ginger-Bread Nuts._
TO five pounds of flour, put six pounds of treacle, one pound and a half
of sugar, and a pound and a half of butter: rub the butter with the
flour and sugar, then mix it up with the treacle; and put in six ounces
of ginger, and four ounces of pimento, and drop them in drops. They will
require a slow oven.
_Filbert Biscuits._
TAKE a pound of nut kernels; let them be exceeding dry, pound them fine,
with the whites of eggs; mix in two pounds of sugar, beat the paste up
with whites of eggs. Drop them out in small drops.
_Sweetmeat Biscuits._
TAKE a pound of sugar, a pound and a half of flour, the yolks of twenty
eggs, with half a pound of almonds; pound the almonds fine with the
yolks: mix in the sugar, and beat it up well, then mix in the flour,
bake it in a square cake, afterwards ice it: cut it into shapes, and put
orange peels on them.
_Rock Almond Biscuits._
CUT your almonds very fine: to a pound of which, allow four ounces of
sugar, and the whites of six eggs; whisk the eggs stiff, then put in the
sugar and almonds; set them in lumps on wafer paper, and bake them in a
very slow oven.
_Syringe Biscuits._
TO a pound of almonds, allow four pounds of sugar: pound the almonds
fine, mixed with whites of eggs; then put in the sugar, mix it into a
stiff paste; then push it through your jumbal mould, and form it into
different shapes.
_Italian Maccaroons._
TO a pound of almonds, allow two pounds and a quarter of sugar: mix it
all in the same manner as ratafia biscuits. Drop it on wafer paper, and
put some almonds cut small on the top of every drop.
_Milfruit Biscuits._
CUT some almonds small, and colour some of the pieces red; then cut some
orange-peel small, and mix them together: dip them in icing, and lay
them on wafer paper, in the shape of rock biscuits.
_Marchpane Biscuits._
BEAT a pound of almonds in a mortar, with a little rose water, and the
whites of four eggs: mix in a pound of sugar, roll it out, and put two
pieces together, with some rasberry jam between: ice it, and cut it into
different shapes; bake them in a slow oven.
_Biscuit Drops._
TO a pound of sugar, allow a pound and a quarter of flour, and eight
eggs: mix them in the same manner as spunge biscuits; drop them on wafer
paper.
Common savoys are made in the same manner.
_To make a Savoy Cake._
TAKE the whites of six eggs, with some flour and sugar; beat the yolks
and sugar together: mix it with the whites whisked stiff, then put in
the flour, and bake it in a gentle oven.
_To make a Spunge Cake._
TAKE the whites of six eggs in sugar, and the weight of four eggs in
flour; mix it up in the same manner as a savoy cake.
_To make a Plum Cake._
TO two pounds of flour, allow two pounds of sugar, two pounds of butter,
and sixteen eggs: cream the butter, and beat it all up together; then
mix in a pound of currants.
N.B. Seed Cake is made in the same manner.
_To make a Rice Cake._
TO a pound of sugar, allow a pound of flour, and half a pound of rice
pounded fine, and ten eggs: mix it up exactly in the same manner as
diet-bread.
_To make an Almond Cake._
TO half a pound of almonds, allow half a pound of sugar, and the yolks
of sixteen eggs; beat it up well, then put in three whole eggs, and mix
in six ounces of flour.
N.B. It will require a slack oven.
_To make a Ratafia Cake._
TO a pound of sugar, allow three quarters of a pound of flour, and four
ounces of bitter almonds pounded fine: mix it up with fourteen eggs, in
the same manner as a savoy cake.
_To make Anniseed Cakes._
TO half a pound of sugar, allow a pound of flour, three whites of eggs,
and half a pound of butter: mix all these ingredients together with a
little cream, then put in two ounces of anniseeds, roll it very thin,
and cut it into round cakes.
_Cinnamon Drop Biscuits._
TO a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, allow half a pound of sugar:
pound the almonds fine with whites of eggs, put in a little cinnamon
essence, or a little cinnamon pounded fine; then drop them on paper in
small drops, and bake them in a slow oven.
[Illustration]
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PART VII.
OF ICE CREAMS, AND THE PROPER METHODS OF MIXING, FREEZING, AND WORKING
THEM.
_Freezing of Ice._
HAVE ready a freezing pot in ice and salt; put in your ice cream, cover
the pot, keep turning it till the water comes round the pot; then open
it and scrape it down: continue turning it, and scraping it down as it
freezes, till it becomes quite hard and smooth.
If an ice cream is mixed too rich, put in a little more cream: if it is
poor, put in some more jam. If a water ice is mixed too rich, it will
require some more water: if it is too poor, put in some clarified sugar.
If an ice is poor, the first time you scrape it down, it will feel quite
rough and hard: on the contrary, if an ice is too rich, it will not
freeze at all.
All fruit ices that are put into the shapes of fruit, should have a
paper round the moulds, just as you put them in the ice: let them lay in
ice and salt for an hour. N.B. Before you turn your ices out, take care
to make the water come up the sides of the tub, and in turning them out,
put your moulds just into hot water, and then out again; then the ice
cream will come out easily.
N.B. All ices that are in the shape of fruit, should be coloured
according to the fruit they represent.
_To prepare the Cochineal for colouring different Sorts of Ice._
TO an ounce of cochineal pounded fine, allow a quart of clear river
water: let it boil, then put in the cochineal with a table spoonful of
pounded rock allum, and the same quantity of cream of tartar; if it
seems to be a purple colour, add a little more cream of tartar, let it
all boil for two minutes, then strain it into a bottle for use.
_Ice Creams, or Rasberry Ice._
TO six ounces of rasberry jam, allow three quarters of a pint of cream,
mix it well; then pass it through a sieve, and colour it.
_Strawberry Jam,_
IS mixed the same way, allowing the juice of two lemons.
_Apricot Ice._
TO four ounces of apricot jam, allow three quarters of a pint of cream,
and a few bitter almonds pounded, the juice of two lemons, and a tea
spoonful of cochineal; pass it all through a sieve for use.
_Pine Apple Ice._
TO four ounces of pine apple jam, put a table spoonful of pine apple
syrup, and three quarters of a pint of cream, and pass it through a
sieve, with the juice of two lemons.
_Barberry Ice._
TO half a pound of barberry jam, put three quarters of a pint of cream:
pass it through a hair sieve, and colour it.
_Biscuit Ice._
TO four yolks of eggs, allow three quarters of a pint of cream, three
ounces of spunge biscuits, a little cinnamon, and four ounces of sugar:
stir it all on the fire, till it begins to thicken, then pass it through
a sieve.
_Pistachia Ice._
TO three yolks of eggs, allow three quarters of a pint of cream, two
ounces of pistachia kernels pounded fine, and four ounces of sugar: boil
your yolks and cream, put in your kernels pounded, then colour it green,
and pass it through a sieve.
_Fresh Gooseberry Ice._
SCALD half a pint of gooseberries tender, and pass them through a hair
sieve; mix in four ounces of sugar, and three quarters of a pint of
cream.
_Chocolate Ice._
MELT three ounces of chocolate on the fire, then take three yolks of
eggs, two ounces of sugar, and three quarters of a pint of cream; and
boil it till it thickens, then put in the chocolate, and pass it through
a sieve.
_Fresh Rasberry Ice._
TAKE half a pint of fresh rasberries, pass them through a sieve, with
the juice of two lemons; mix in half a pint of cream, and four ounces of
sugar; then colour it.
_Fresh Strawberry Ice,_
IS prepared in the same manner.
_Royal Cream._
TO four eggs, allow three quarters of a pint of cream, a little
cinnamon, four ounces of sugar, and a few coriander seeds: boil it all
till it begins to thicken, then pass it through a sieve.
_Lemon Cream._
TO five yolks of eggs, allow three quarters of a pint of cream, four
ounces of sugar, and the rind of a lemon cut thin: boil it all till it
thickens, then pass it, with the juice of four lemons, through a sieve.
_Orange Cream,_
IS prepared in a similar manner.
_Burnt Cream._
TAKE a little sugar and burn it on the fire in a dry stew pan; have
ready a good royal cream, and mix in the burnt sugar.
N.B. This cream you may either freeze, or put it under a crocant.
_Plain Ice._
TAKE half a pint of the best cream you can get; whisk it in your
freezing pot till stiff, then put in a little clarified sugar, and
freeze it.
_Coffee Ice._
TO four whites of eggs, put three ounces of sugar, three quarters of a
pint of cream, and an ounce of whole coffee; boil it all till it
thickens, then pass it through a sieve for freezing.
_Tea Ice_,
Is prepared in the same manner.
_Ratafia Ice._
TO three eggs, allow four ounces of sugar, two ounces of ratafia
biscuits, and three quarters of a pint of cream; boil it all till it
thickens, then pass it for use.
_Vernella Ice._
TO four eggs, allow three ounces of sugar, and half a pint of cream, put
in half an ounce of vernella; boil it till it thickens, then pass it.
N.B. ALL ice creams that are mixed over the fire, should be stirred, to
prevent their sticking to the bottom of the pan.
WATER ICES, PINTS EACH.
_Orange Ice._
TO half a pint of clarified sugar, allow the juice of five oranges, and
two lemons: rasp the rind of two oranges, mix it all with a quarter of a
pint of water, and pass it through a lawn sieve.
_Lemon Ice._
TO half a pint of clarified sugar, allow the juice of six lemons, and
the rind of one: mix it with a quarter of a pint of water, and pass it
through a lawn sieve.
_Cedraty Ice._
TO a gill of cedraty essence, allow the juice of four lemons, a quarter
of a pint of clarified sugar, and the same quantity of water, pass it
through a lawn sieve.
_Grape Ice._
MAKE a good lemon ice; then mix in a gill of grape essence, and pass it
through a lawn sieve.
_Rasberry Water._
TO three quarters of a pound of jam, allow a pint and a quarter of
water, and the juice of two lemons; pass it through a hair sieve, and
colour it.
_Currant Water._
TAKE a quart of fresh currants; rub them through a sieve, mix it with a
quarter of a pint of clarified sugar, and the same quantity of water;
then colour and strain it.
_Cherry Ice._
TAKE a pound of morello, or Kentish cherries; bruise them in the mortar,
strain them through a hair sieve, and mix the juice with a quarter of a
pint of water, and the same quantity of clarified sugar, pass it through
a lawn sieve, and colour it.
All water ices may be made of the fresh fruit in a similar manner; but
if you make a water ice of jam, you must allow double the quantity of
fruit, to what you allow in making cream ices.
_Punch Ice._
MAKE a good lemon ice, and mix with it a gill of brandy, and half a gill
of rum, or arrack.
This ice is only fit for glasses.
_Pear Ice._
TAKE four good mellow pears: rasp them, then mix it with the juice of
four lemons, half a pint of clarified sugar, and a quarter of a pint of
water; strain it through a sieve for use.
[Illustration]
------------------------------------------------------------------------
PART VIII.
CORDIALS, AND MADE WINES.
_To make Raisin Alder Wine._
TAKE four gallons of boiling water: to every gallon, add five pounds of
Malaga raisins cut small; pour the water boiling hot upon them, and let
it stand nine days, stirring it twice a day: boil your alder-berries, as
you do currants for jelly, and strain it; then add to every gallon of
liquor, one pint of alderberry juice, and stir it all together with half
a pint of yeast; let it work well, and remain in the cask for two or
three months; then bottle it off.
_Orange Wine._
TAKE six gallons of water, and twelve pounds of Lisbon sugar, the whites
of six eggs well beaten; let all boil together, then put it into a large
preserving pan, with the juice of half a hundred of oranges, twelve
lemons, and the rinds of twelve oranges: give all a boil together, then
put it into a barrel with ten quarts of Rhenish wine, and a pint and a
half of good yeast; let it work well for a week, then stop it up for a
month, and bottle it up.
_Damascene Wine._
TO every gallon of water; put two pounds and a half of sugar, which you
must boil and skim well: to every gallon of this, put five pints of
damascenes stoned; let it boil, then put it into a cask: work it three
or four days, then stop it up for use.
_Gooseberry Wine._
TO every three pounds of ripe gooseberries, put a pint of spring water,
bruise your fruit; put it into a tub, and pour the water on them; let
them stand a whole day, then to every three pounds of fruit, put a pound
of moist sugar: stir it till the sugar is dissolved, and let it stand
twenty-four hours more; then skim the head clear off, and put the liquor
into a cask; let it work three or four days before you stop it up: let
it remain four months before you bottle it, and if it is not fine, let
it stand in bottles till it is, and then rack it off into other bottles.
_Cowslip Wine._
TO six gallons of water, allow thirty pounds of Malaga raisins; boil the
water, and measure it out of your copper on your raisins: cut small and
put into a tub; let them work together twelve hours, at the end of that
time strain off, and press the raisins hard, to extract the essence;
then take a little good yeast, and mix it with some lemon syrup, put in
two pecks of cowslips, and let your ingredients work together for three
days, stirring them twice a day; then stop it up, and bottle off in
three months.
_Birch Wine._
ALLOW to every gallon of birch water, two pounds of sugar; boil it half
an hour, skim it well, let it stand a little; then pour it off the
grounds, work it well with yeast, before you put it into your cask, and
smoke the cask with brimstone.
I would recommend a small bag of slit raisins, to be put in the cask,
and let it stand three or four months before you bottle it off.
_Rasberry Wine._
PUT three pounds of raisins of the sun stoned, into two gallons of hot
water, add to these, six quarts of rasberries, and two pounds of loaf
sugar: let all stand three days, then strain, put in a pound more sugar;
mix in a little yeast, let it work well, then bottle it off with a lump
of sugar in each bottle.
_Blackberry Wine._
PUT five gallons of boiling water, to half a bushel of blackberries; let
them stand forty-eight hours, then add half a peck of sloes, and ten
pounds of sugar; boil all the ingredients together for an hour, work it
with yeast, and let it stand three months in the cask before you bottle
it.
_Cherry Wine._
TAKE fifty pounds of black cherries, picked from the stalks, bruise them
well, then take half a bushel of currants, and four quarts of
rasberries, and squeeze them; to this quantity of juice, allow forty
pounds of sugar: dissolve it in water, and put all together into a cask
with eight gallons of water, and a quart of good yeast, let it work
well; you may bottle it at three months end.
_Currant Wine._
TO three pounds of currants picked from the stalks, allow a pound of
sugar, and a quart of water: boil, and put them into a cask with a good
allowance of British spirits; let it work for two weeks before you stop
it up, then let it remain three months before you bottle it off.
_To make Raisin Wine._
TO every gallon of water, put five pounds of Malaga, or Belvidere slit
raisins; let them soak in the water for a fortnight, stirring them every
day, then strain it through a sieve, and put it into a cask: to every
gallon of liquor, allow a pint of French brandy; work it well, and let
it remain stopped up close for four months, before you bottle it.
_To make Sage Wine._
BOIL twenty-six quarts of water, with twenty-five pounds of Malaga
raisins cut small; then put it into a tub with two pecks of red sage,
and half a pint of yeast; let all work well, then put it into a cask,
let it remain a week before you stop it up, and two months before you
bottle it up.
_To make Clear Wine._
TAKE half a pound of hartshorn, and dissolve it in cyder; and if it be
for cyder, Rhenish wine, or any other liquor, this quantity is enough
for a hogshead.
_To make Mead._
TO five quarts of honey, allow forty quarts of water, eighteen races of
ginger, and one handful of rosemary; boil them together for three hours,
and skim it perpetually: when it is cold, put your yeast to it, and it
will be fit to bottle in eight or ten days.
_To make White Mead._
TAKE three gallons of water, and one quart of honey, and if it be not
strong enough, add more honey; boil it for an hour, then put it into a
tub with ginger, and spice, the whites of eight eggs to it, work it well
with yeast, and when you perceive it is done working, bottle it off for
use.
_To make Milk Punch._
TAKE two quarts of milk, a quart of good brandy, the juice of six
lemons, and half a pound of sugar; mix them well, and strain it through
a jelly bag, take a little lemon peel, and put into your bag; when it is
strained bottle it up, and it will keep a considerable time.
_To make Citron Water._
TAKE a pound and a half of the best citron bruised, nine ounces of lemon
peel, the same quantity of orange peel; nutmegs bruised, a quarter of a
pound; strong proof spirits, three gallons; water two gallons; macerate,
distil and dulcify with double refined sugar, two pounds.
_Ratafia Cordial._
TAKE three gallons of Molasses brandy, nutmegs three ounces and a half;
bruise them, and infuse them in the brandy; adding ambergrease, three
grains; bitter almonds, one pound and a half: mix the ambergrease with
three pounds of fine Lisbon sugar, then infuse all for seven or eight
days, and strain it off for use.
_Orange Flower Brandy._
TAKE a gallon of French brandy, two pounds of sugar, two quarts of
water, and half a pound of orange flowers; make a syrup of your sugar
and water, put in your orange flowers, and give all a gentle boil; then
mix in the brandy, and put all into a stone bottle close corked up for
use.
_Surfeit Water._
TAKE a peck of red corn poppies, put them in a large bottle, and put to
it a quart of aqua vitæ, a nutmeg, and a race of ginger, sliced, a small
stick of cinnamon, a blade of mace, three or four figs, four ounces of
raisins of the sun, four ounces of anniseeds, caraways and cardemum,
mixed with two ounces of Spanish liquorish; put all these ingredients
into the bottle; then add two quarts of white brandy, and cork it up;
shake it every day for a week; then let it stand for two months, by
which time it will be fit to drink.
_Cinnamon Water._
TAKE cinnamon bruised, twelve ounces; proof spirits rectified three
gallons; water one gallon and a half; macerate them twenty-four hours,
then distil and draw off your spirits, and dulcify it with loaf sugar,
two pounds and a half, and make it full proof.
_Nutmeg Water._
TAKE nutmegs bruised, twelve ounces; proof spirits three gallons, water
one gallon and a half; infuse, distil, and dulcify with two pounds of
sugar for use.
_Mint Water._
TAKE mint two handfuls, proof spirits two gallons and a half; distil and
dulcify with sugar, one pound and a half for use.
_Lemon Water._
TAKE twelve large lemons, sliced thin, and put them into two pints of
white wine, with a little cinnamon, and a handful of rose-leaves; the
same quantity of burrage, and a drachm of yellow sanders: steep all this
together twelve hours; mix in a pint and a half of water, two pounds of
sugar, and two pints more wine, then distil it for use.
FINIS.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
● Transcriber’s Notes:
○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
when a predominant form was found in this book.
○ Text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_).
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