Mushroom and Toadstools - How to Distinguish Easily the Differences between Edible

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Title: Mushroom and Toadstools - How to Distinguish Easily the Differences between Edible - and Poisonous Fungi
Author: Smith, Worthington George
Language: English
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EDIBLE AND POISONOUS FUNGI.

“O, mickle is the powerful grace, that lies
In plants, herbs, stones, and their true qualities;
For nought so vile that on the earth doth live,
But to the earth some special good doth give.”
ROM. AND JUL., Act II., Sc. 3.

LONDON:
WYMAN AND SONS, PRINTERS, GREAT QUEEN STREET,
LINCOLN’S-INN FIELDS, W.C.

MUSHROOMS AND TOADSTOOLS:

HOW TO DISTINGUISH EASILY THE

_Differences between Edible and Poisonous Fungi._

WITH
FIGURES OF TWENTY-NINE EDIBLE AND
THIRTY-ONE POISONOUS SPECIES.

BY
WORTHINGTON G. SMITH, F.L.S., M.A.I.

_THIRD EDITION._

[Illustration]

LONDON:
HARDWICKE AND BOGUE, 192 PICCADILLY.
1876.

PREFACE.

“THE PROOF OF THE _Fungus_ IS IN THE EATING.” I have constantly eaten
every species figured on the “Edible Sheet,” and many others that are
not. Few, I imagine, will expect me to have eaten every species on
the “Poisonous Sheet,” bearing, as they do, such adjective names as
“gloomy,” “fiery,” “satanical,” “inflaming,” &c.

However, years ago, without a proper guide and with very little
experience, I more than once became personally acquainted with the
unpleasant qualities of _one or two dangerous species_, the particulars
of which will be found in the proper place.

If the following brief descriptions are used in connection with the two
sheets of drawings, which I have copied from nature and transferred to
the stones myself (or in reference to the large drawings in the Bethnal
Green Museum), no one who is capable of distinguishing one thing from
another need fear making a mistake.

I shall be glad to give information regarding any species forwarded to
me carriage paid.

W. G. SMITH.
15, MILDMAY GROVE, LONDON, N.

INDEX TO POPULAR NAMES.

(E. refers to Edible, and P. to Poisonous Sheet;
B.G.M. to the Number of the Drawing in the Bethnal Green Museum.)

Fig. Page B.G.M.

P. 6. Astringent mushroom 52 582
P. 29. Bitter tube-mushroom 62 617
P. 17. Blood-stained mushroom 57 518
P. 1. Bundled stump-mushroom 50 331
E. 4. Candle clavaria 24 843
E. 8. Chantarelle 28 539
E. 24. Clouded mushroom 44 73
E. 16. Curled helvella 37 1673
E. 20. Edible morel 41 1668
E. 2. ” tube-mushroom 22, 62 610
P. 21. Emetic mushroom 27, 59 528
E. 28. Fairy-ring champignon 15, 47 553
P. 30. False champignon 48, 62 550
P. 19. ” chantarelle 58 540
P. 16. Fetid mushroom 57 530
P. 4. ” leather-fungus 51 760
P. 31. ” wood-witch. 63 914
P. 15. Fiery milk-mushroom 56 500
P. 26. ” tube-mushroom 61 597
E. 10. Fir-cone mushroom 31 5
P. 13. Fly mushroom 54 3
E. 7. Furrowed clavaria 28 827
E. 25. Giant puff-ball 45 930
” morel 42
P. 10. Gloomy tube-mushroom 53 607
P. 11. Griping milk-mushroom 53 488
E. 9. Horse mushroom 15, 29 317
P. 24. Incrusted mushroom 40, 60 278
E. 18. Lilac-stemmed mushroom 15, 39 65
E. 21. Liver fungus 42 716
P. 18. Livid milk-mushroom 58 498
P. 9. Magpie mushroom 58 379
E. 13. Maned mushroom 34 374
P. 7. Matrix-bearing mushroom 52 2
E. 5. Meadow mushroom 15, 24, 26 316
P. 5. Olive-gilled mushroom 51 328
E. 11. Orange-milk mushroom 32, 46 502
E. 17. Oyster mushroom 38 179
E. 26. Pear-milk mushroom 46 508
E. 15. Plum mushroom 36 225
P. 8. Poisonous spring mushroom 52 1
P. 14. Poisonous forest mushroom 54 212
P. 28. Pungent milk-mushroom 62 505
E. 12. Purple cobweb-mushroom 33 420
E. 1. Red-fleshed mushroom 21 7
P. 2. Red juice-mushroom 50 482
P. 12. Ruddy milk-mushroom 51 512
P. 27. Satanical tube-mushroom 61 606
E. 14. Scaly mushroom 16, 35 13
P. 22. Slimy dung-mushroom 59 327
E. 22. Spine-bearing mushroom 43 718
E. 19. St. George’s mushroom 16, 36, 40 62
P. 23. Sulphury mushroom 60 55
P. 3. Trellised Clathrus 51 917
E. 29. Truffle 16, 48 1916
E. 3. Variable Mushroom 23 522
P. 25. Verdigris mushroom 60 322
E. 23. Viscid white mushroom 43 470
E. 27. White fir-wood mushroom 46 80
E. 6. Yellow-gilled mushroom 27 536
P. 20. Yellow milk-mushroom 58 503

INDEX TO SCIENTIFIC NAMES.

Fig. Page B.G.M.

P. 25. Agaricus æruginosus 60 322
E. 9. ” arvensis 15, 29 317
” cæsareus 23, 26
E. 5. ” campestris 15, 24, 26 316
P. 24. ” crustuliniformis 40, 60 278
E. 27. ” dealbatus 46 80
” euosmus 38
E. 9. ” exquisitus 29 317
P. 1. ” fascicularis 50 331
P. 14. ” sinuatus 54 212
E. 19. ” gambosus 16, 36, 40 62
P. 13. ” muscarius 54 3
E. 24. ” nebularis 44 73
” nudus 39
” odorus 47
” orcellus 36 225
E. 17. ” ostreatus 38 179
E. 18. ” personatus 15, 39 65
P. 7. ” phalloides 52
” pratensis 25
E. 14. ” procerus 16, 35
E. 15. ” prunulus 36 225
” rachodes 36
E. 1. ” rubescens 21 7
P. 22. ” semiglobatus 59 327
” silvicola 25
E. 10. ” strobiliformis 31 5
P. 5. ” sublateritius 51 328
P. 23. ” sulfureus 60 55
” vaginatus 32
P. 8. ” vernus 52 1
” villaticus 30
Boletus æstivalis 23 612
” chrysenteron 23
E. 2. ” edulis 22, 62 610
P. 29. ” felleus 62 617
P. 10. ” luridus 53 607
P. 26. ” piperatus 61 597
P. 27. ” Satanas 61 606
” scaber 23 615
P. 19. Cantharellus aurantiacus 58 540
E. 8. ” cibarius 28 539
P. 3. Clathrus cancellatus 51 917
Clavaria coralloides 28
E. 7. ” rugosa 28 827
E. 4. ” vermiculata 24 843
Coprinus atramantarius 35
E. 13. ” comatus 34 374
P. 9. ” picaceus 52 420
E. 12. Cortinarius violacens 33 420
E. 21. Fistulina hepatica 42 716
E. 16. Helvella crispa 37 1673
” lacunosa 37 1674
E. 22. Hydum repandum 43 718
P. 2. Hygrophorus conicus 50 482
” niveus 44
” pratensis 44
” psittacinus 44
E. 23. ” virgineus 43 470
P. 28. Lactarius acris 62 505
E. 11. ” deliciosus 32, 47 502
P. 15. ” piperatus 56 500
P. 18. ” pyrogalus 58 498
P. 12. ” rufus 54 512
P. 20. ” theiogalus 58 503
P. 11. ” torminosus 53 488
E. 26. ” volemum 46 508
E. 25. Lycoperdon giganteum 45 930
E. 28. Marasmius oreades 15, 47 553
P. 30. ” urens 48, 62 550
E. 20. Morchella esculenta 41 1668
” crassipes 42
P. 6. Panus stypticus 52 582
P. 31. Phallus impudicus 63 914
E. 6. Russula alatacea 27 536
P. 21. ” emetica 27, 59 528
P. 16. ” fœtens 57 530
” furcata 23
E. 3. ” heterophylla 23 522
P. 17. ” sanguinea 57 518
” virescens 24
P. 4. Thelephora palmata 51 760
E. 29. Tuber æstivum 16, 48 1916
” cibarium 49

INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS.

“...... Oh, who can tell
The hidden power of hearbes, and might of magicke spell?”
SPENSER.

Perhaps no other country can vie with Great Britain in the vast number
of edible species of fungi that may be gathered during all seasons
of the year, from one end of the land to the other. The pastures and
woodlands literally teem with them; they are, however (sad to say),
little known, sadly neglected, or looked upon with unmerited suspicion.
The literature, too, of the subject is so small, and the scientific
part of the study so extremely difficult to begin, that few persons
dare venture to test the qualities of any fungus except the meadow
mushroom, and instances are common enough where even this species is
rejected. It is apparent that no one can be a sure guide to others who
is not himself a “regular fungus _eater_,” and that no descriptions
can be of value, or drawings of use, unless they are taken with the
greatest care from the objects themselves. To the best of my ability,
I have attempted this, and wish to persuade others to test the rare
gastronomic qualities of the twenty-nine species figured. The number
here described and drawn is only a very small portion of the really
valuable species, for I well know that, as a beginner in the study, I
made all sorts of mistakes; but, with one exception, I seldom suffered
much inconvenience, and I even know instances where confessedly
poisonous species have been eaten without ill effect. A little
prudence, too often neglected, should be observed in the consumption of
fungi: for instance, only young, fresh, and sound specimens should be
gathered for the table—for if stale, semi-putrid, and worm-eaten plants
are chosen, they are as likely to produce indigestion and inconvenience
as meat in a similar condition; they should be eaten in moderation, as
a surfeit of sweet mushrooms is as likely to disarrange one’s digestive
organs as a surfeit of pastry. If these precautions are attended to,
and a moderate amount of bread, salt, pepper, and common sense is used,
no accident need occur. Let the specimens be cooked as soon as possible
after gathering.

Although the following statement may be difficult to understand, it
is nevertheless a fact, that many men _do not know what a mushroom is
at all, but will eat anything_. I will give an instance: A year or
two ago, a man in the north of England cooked a large batch of what
he called mushrooms, for supper, and succeeded in poisoning his wife
and family to _death_, and himself nearly to death. Some of the things
he cooked were sent to me for identification, and lo! he had gathered
everything he could lay his hands upon; large and small, sweet and
foul—off horsedung, and rotten palings, and from wherever he could
find anything with a stalk and a top to it after the manner of an
umbrella. When he had buried his family and recovered his own health,
he carelessly walked into a well, and either killed or much damaged
himself—I forget which. I mention this to show the sort of men they
are who poison themselves with mushrooms. They would poison themselves
with anything else if they had the opportunity; would get under a
cart-wheel, or do any absurd thing.

The twenty-nine species figured on the “Edible Sheet” are most of them
abundant, and instantly recognizable when seen, and every one is a
wholesome and delicious object of food, full of aroma and flavour. I
invite my readers to partake of the bountiful feast spread in our rich
pastures and shady woodlands all over the country for all who care to
partake.

“Mushrooms and Toadstools.”—These two words embrace the whole of the
knowledge possessed by the people at large regarding the immense
fungus tribe of this country. If we take the mushroom type of fungus
as an example, we have some seven hundred species, all possessing a
certain general similitude of form. This has caused many to look upon
fungi in common as equivocal productions, difficult or impossible to
distinguish as permanent species; but when the study is once entered
upon in earnest, the student will soon perceive that the species, as a
rule, are marked with great distinctness and permanency, rendering the
recognition of most of them as certain as in any species of flowering
plant.

When the study of the whole of the British Fungi is embraced, it is
true there are many difficulties in the way, for we find some plants
closely approaching the algæ and others the lichens; but when it is
only the larger fungi that it is proposed to discriminate, the task is
much easier, the number being limited to about twelve hundred species.
If the orders AGARICINI and POLYPOREI (including more than eight of
the twelve hundred species) are taken as a rough type of the larger
fungi, it will be seen that these plants consist principally of a stem
and cap. Unlike the flowering plant, the mushroom has no root; but, in
place of it, the mycelium, or spawn, from which the fungus springs.
Under the top are certain gills or plates, tubes, pores or spines, that
bear the spores (or seeds). These spores are distinguished from true
seeds by having no embryo, a spore consisting simply of a _two-coated
cell with no trace of an embryo_. These spores are microscopic
objects of various forms, sizes, and colours, the produce of one
plant reaching, it is said, the enormous number of ten millions; when
they fall upon the earth, or any suitable matrix, they germinate and
form the spawn which eventually produces an infant fungus, the exact
counterpart of the original producer of the spores.

We have but one species popularly recognized as esculent—viz., the
common meadow mushroom (_Agaricus campestris_). A very near ally of
the “meadow mushroom,” and a most delicious species when fresh,—viz.,
the so-called “horse mushroom” (_Agaricus arvensis_)—is nearly always
rejected by country-folks as dangerous. This large and wholesome
species is the one commonly sold in Covent Garden Market as the true
mushroom, where, if _fresh_ specimens can be procured, it is a welcome
addition to the table. The fairy-ring Champignon (certainly one of the
most exquisitely delicious of all our fungi) is generally neglected,
or regarded with great suspicion. Under the name of “champillion,”
however, it is well known to the weavers and labouring men of the east
of London, who may be seen gathering it in considerable numbers any
autumn day amongst the short grass of Victoria Park. The fragrant and
luscious “Chantarelle,” the “rare Morel,” and the sweet and tender
giant puff-ball, are almost universally _kicked_ aside or altogether
neglected. Amongst the species _supposed_ to be popular is _Agaricus
personatus_, said to be sold in Covent Garden Market. I have never seen
it there, or heard of its presence. In the West of England and some
other places I have heard these plants called “Blue-its” (Blewits),
in reference to the blue colour round the upper part of the stem. It
is a most substantial and delicious species, and should be better
known; but I imagine it is rather uncommon, as I have seldom gathered
it; although till quite lately it grew near Highbury Barn. The St.
George’s mushroom, springing up on our lawns and pastures in spring
(_Agaricus gambosus_), is little known, and very seldom eaten. Closely
allied to the _A. personatus_, it is, if possible, more delicious, and
may be easily dried for winter use. The semi-popular scaly mushroom,
_Agaricus procerus_ (except to fungologists), is known to very few,
but its esculent properties are of a very high order, and it has the
merit of being common. It is said to be sometimes sold in Covent Garden
Market, but I have never seen it there, neither do I know anyone who
has. With the truffle, the list must close of such fungi as are now
and then eaten on exceptional occasions, or may be imperfectly known
to a few who have not studied the subject. This species appears in
our markets in limited quantities (there being very little demand for
it), and realizes from 2_s._ 6_d._ to 5_s._ per pound. The statement
that they fetch from 15_s._ to 20_s._ per pound in the London markets
is, I believe, incorrect. It must also be remembered that our English
truffles do not belong to the same species as the delicious truffles
sold in the French markets.

There is no other way of distinguishing a poisonous from an edible
fungus than by finding out its name; there is no magic way of saving
the trouble of learning, by the insertion of a silver spoon in a
stew. If, on tasting a fungus, it burns the tongue like the contact
of scalding water (as several species do), the probability is that it
is not edible; but if, on the contrary, a species exhales a delicious
and inviting fragrance resembling fruit, spice, or new flour, it is
probably worth a trial, and, even _if not_ figured on the “Edible
Sheet,” may be cautiously tried for the table if so desired.

An important character to be observed in fungi is the presence of a
volva, or matrix, at the base of the stem (present in figs. 7 and
8, absent in figs. 11 and 12, Poisonous Sheet), and in the annulus,
or ring, round the stem towards the top (present in figs. 1 and 7,
absent in figs. 14 and 15, Poisonous Sheet). In the determination of
species a great deal depends, too, upon the colour of the spores, or
seeds. These are readily obtained by removing the stalk of the species
to be examined, and placing the top gills lowermost on a piece of
glass. In a few hours the spores will be deposited in a thick dust,
and will vary (according to the species) from pure white to pink,
yellow, red, brown, purple, or jet black. The gills often take their
colours from the spores. It is a very great mistake to imagine that
the “Sudden Mushroom” grows in a single night. The growth of mushrooms
takes a considerable time—often many weeks. The young fungi exist
just beneath or upon the surface of the earth in a compressed and
narrowed compass. It is during this period that all the cells are
formed, and the mushroom itself fashioned; but, being in a squeezed
and concentrated form, it is commonly overlooked. On the advent of
a wet or humid night, the cells forming the fungus are expanded and
stretched out, and the mushroom is consequently thrust considerably
above the surface of the pasture; but, although it is much larger in
size, it is no heavier, neither has the substance itself considerably
increased. Mushrooms can be artificially propagated from the seeds or
spores, but not, generally, during the first season of setting. I have
frequently grown the fragile and deliquescent species common on manure
from the seeds; but, even when the spawn is once formed, it is often
many weeks before the little heads are developed into the true figure
of the parents, even in the inky, fugitive and deliquescent species.
_Coprinus atramentarius_ can be readily grown from spores; if planted
about rotten wood in the autumn, the fungi will appear in the late
spring, and give two crops a year till the soil is exhausted. I have
exhibited a cultivated variety of this species at the meetings of the
Royal Horticultural Society.

I have not thought it necessary to repeat long descriptions of how
the various species may, or may not, be cooked; it has been done to a
great extent before. It is apparent that the addition of “good beef
gravy,” “a few slices of fowl,” “rich veal stuffing,” and various
other savoury condiments, must occasionally give an extra zest to a
dish of mushrooms; but broiled, stewed, or pickled, most species are
“always good alike”; indeed, mushrooms, in their whole composition,
resemble meat in so remarkable a manner, that any methods of cookery
in vogue for delicate preparations of meat, apply with equal force
to mushrooms. Mrs. Hussey and Mr. Cooke each give a large number of
_récipés_ for preparing these vegetables for the table; and to any
reader who may wish to go deeper into the culinary branch of fungology,
I must refer them to these authors. I must confess that I consider
no preparation of mushrooms can exceed the delicious, inviting, and
grateful flavour possessed by mushrooms when simply fried with butter,
salt, and pepper.

The various species suitable for storing up for future use—such as the
Morel, Champignon, &c.—may be readily dried in a current of air, in a
sunny window, or in a cool oven, and then kept in tins, or threaded on
strings and kept in a very dry place. Occasionally this process goes
a step further, and the mushrooms (of any species) are dried to such
an extent as to be readily pulverized; the dust is then known and sold
as “mushroom powder.” Housewives will now and then pickle mushrooms,
by throwing them into scalding vinegar, allowing them to boil for ten
minutes or so, and then, by adding cayenne, mace, nutmeg, or spices,
adapt them to their various tastes.

The liquor extracted from the various edible mushrooms, under
the name of “ketchup,” is used in every kitchen, and the mode of
preparation is probably known to all. It simply consists of placing
the freshly-gathered plants in earthen jars with layers of salt; after
a few hours the ketchup exudes in abundance from the fungi; and the
process is ultimately completed by mashing the remains of the mushrooms
with the hands. It should then be strained and boiled with spice and
pepper, or strained and bottled, and the corked and scaled bottles
placed for several hours in boiling water. The ketchup should then be
kept in a cool and very dry place.

Nearly every species figured on the Edible Sheet will produce ketchup
of good quality, if treated with salt in an earthen jar. The Champignon
and Horse Mushroom may be specially referred to as producing this
condiment of an excellent quality.

The juice exuded from the truffle in boiling is highly relished by
many, as is the deep blood-red juice that runs from the “liver fungus”
when cut. This, when seasoned with salt and pepper, and boiled, has a
very delicious and stimulating flavour.

Since these notes and the following descriptions were written, my
friend Mr. F. C. Penrose, architect, has sent me a list of twenty-eight
species he has eaten, most of which are figured on the “Edible Sheet”;
the other species mentioned by him and not figured on the sheet are
referred to in the descriptions.

The nomenclature of the species is the same with that given by the
Rev. M. J. Berkeley in his “Outlines of British Fungology”; the numbers
inserted after the _scientific_ name refer to my large drawings in the
Food Department of the Bethnal Green Museum, where, if the student so
desires, he may see dissections of the species.

[Illustration]

EDIBLE MUSHROOMS.

=Red-fleshed Mushroom.= Fig. 1.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _rubescens._) 7.

This species is generally abundant in all _woody_ places, making its
first appearance in early summer and continuing till late in the
autumn. It is known by its brown warty top, its white gills, and
perfect ring encircling the bulbous stem. It frequently attains a
large size, and its whole substance, when touched, bruised, or broken,
_becomes sienna-red_. This species is one of the most beautiful as well
as valuable of all the British Agarics. If care be taken to select
young and fresh specimens only, when prepared for the table, it will
prove a very light and delicate addition to any meal. Mr. Berkeley does
not subscribe to the excellence of this species; but as far as my own
experience and that of many friends go, I _well know it to be delicious
and perfectly wholesome_. Mr. Penrose writes me: “_Old specimens_ are
very indigestible.” This I imagine contains the whole secret of its
questionable name amongst some who have (or have not) tried it.

=Edible Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 2.

(_Boletus edulis._) 610.

Frequently attaining enormous dimensions, and first appearing during
the summer or early autumn rains, this fungus is one of our commonest
and most delicious species. Like the last, it grows in woods and
forests, and may be at once known by the following characters: it is
generally very stout, with a smooth, umber, cushion-shaped top, tubes
at first white and ultimately pale yellowish-green; stem whitish-brown,
marked with a _minute_ white and very elegant reticulated network,
principally near the top of the ringless stem; when cut or broken, the
fleshy body of the plant continues pure white. In this, as in every
other species, sound young specimens should be selected, and it is
perhaps as well to scrape away the tubes before preparation for the
table. Whether boiled, stewed with salt, pepper, and butter, fried,
or roasted with onions and butter, this species proves itself one of
the most delicious and tender objects of food ever submitted to the
operation of cooking. It is not the plant referred to by the ancient
Roman satiric poets; but at Rome (in the present day) this species, in
company with peaches and _Agaricus cæsareus_, is sold at every street
corner, our common meadow mushroom, though abundant enough there, being
disregarded.

_B. scaber_ (615) is sometimes eaten. From personal experience, Mr.
Penrose says: “Young specimens are good—old, very flat.”

_B. æstivalis_ (612) is of rare excellence; it appears in the early
summer, sometimes in abundance, at Highgate.

Before I properly knew _B. edulis_, I ate all sorts of _Boleti_ in
mistake for it, notably _B. chrysenteron_.

=Variable Mushroom.= Fig. 3.

(_Russula heterophylla._) 522.

This is a very common species in woods, known by its sweet nutty
taste; white, rigid, sometimes branched, gills; white flesh; white,
solid, fleshy, ringless stem; and firm top, variable in colour, which
is at first convex, at last concave. The colour of the thin viscid
skin covering the top of the fungus is commonly subdued green, but (as
its name indicates) the colour is variable: at one time it approaches
greenish-yellow, or lilac, and at another grey or obscure purple;
but it is so common and well marked that, with the assistance of the
figure, there is no fear of mistaking it for anything else. There is
a _stouter_, more rigid plant, with forked gills and a bitter taste
(_R. furcata_), that had better be avoided. A third green Russula (_R.
virescens_), immediately known by its rigid substance, its top broken
up into large rough emerald-green patches, and with no viscid skin, is
an excellent addition to the table.

_Russula heterophylla_ is highly esteemed by many, and is certainly one
of the sweetest and mildest species we have. It is excellent stewed in
an oven, with salt, pepper, and butter, between two dishes.

=Candle Clavaria.= Fig. 4.

(_Clavaria vermiculata._) 843.

This species is frequently very common in pastures and meadows, on
lawns and by roadsides, in the wet weather of autumn. It grows in
bundles; is brittle; the clubs are pointed and very _white_. If a few
bundles be gathered, cleaned, and stewed or broiled, they will form
a novel and tasty adjunct to any dish, and when once tried will be
eagerly sought for in future. Coloured _Clavarias_ had better remain
where found growing, as their gastronomic qualities are doubtful.

=Meadow Mushroom.= Fig. 5.

(_Agaricus_ [_Psalliota_] _campestris._) 316.

A large volume might be written about this species, the only one
popularly recognized in this country as edible. It is common in rich
meadows everywhere, perhaps all over the world, and varies in a
remarkable manner, by imperceptible gradations approaching and blending
with the horse mushroom, fig. 9: its varieties are distinguished by
five or six different names, but the characters run into each other
so much, and are frequently so slight and transient, that they are
often difficult to appreciate. One form is found growing in woods (_A.
silvicola_). I have often gathered it in the Highgate woods, but from
its suspicious aspect would not advise its general use; though I have
frequently eaten it with no ill effect. There is another most beautiful
variety I have frequently gathered in the meadows on the south side of
Lord Mansfield’s woods at Hampstead (_A. pratensis_), with a very hairy
top, the hairs grouped in patches like ermine. When broken, the flesh
changes to a pale but vivid rose-colour. If possible, this form exceeds
in excellence and piquancy of flavour the common form of our pastures.
Several very distinct varieties are cultivated in beds and stoves,
which occasionally appear in our markets; but none exceed our delicious
indigenous meadow mushroom, as found in the autumn in rich pastures.

_Bonâ fide_ mushrooms are known by their beautiful pink gills (in which
state they are best fit for use), ultimately becoming deep brown, and
not reaching the stem, which stem carries a well-marked white woolly
ring; by the very fleshy down-covered top, the delicious and enticing
fragrance and the firm white flesh, sometimes inclined to pink when cut
or broken: the plant is so well known and so highly esteemed in this
country that it is hardly necessary to say a word in its favour, or
repeat methods of preparing it for the table. Butter, spice, parsley,
sweet herbs, salt, pepper, and sometimes the squeeze of a lemon, appear
to be in the greatest request; but whether boiled, pickled, stewed,
fried, or prepared in any other way, it is equally delicious in all. It
seldom appears in Covent Garden Market; the dealers there are content
to find a sale, at a high price, for stale horse mushrooms. Much has
been written at various times regarding the apocryphal “inspector of
the Roman markets,” who consigns mushrooms to the Tiber, but the facts
have been much exaggerated. _Agaricus campestris_ is not generally
appreciated in Italy, is seldom eaten, and never appears in the
markets, for the simple reason that there would be no sale for it.
There is an edict in existence ordering certain fungi to be thrown into
the Tiber, but it is now, and has long been, altogether effete; and
whilst there is an abundance of _A. cæsareus_ (by some said to be the
most delicious of all fungi) for the markets of Italy, it is not to be
expected that the consumption of this latter plant will be given up for
another and less-known species. It is probable that _Agaricus cæsareus_
may one day be found in the southern parts of this country; if so, it
will be known by its smooth _wartless_ crimson top, its yellow gills,
and stout white stem springing from a large wrapper at the base (like
fig. 7, Poisonous Sheet).

The ketchup made from the meadow mushroom is, not without reason,
looked upon as the best, although it may be obtained from many other
species. I have seen persons gathering fungi for ketchup (to be sold
in the markets), putting almost anything into their baskets so long as
the species appeared likely to yield a black juice.

I have known cows to be very fond of mushrooms; and a friend of mine in
the country (who has more than once seen his cows, in the morning, go
from mushroom to mushroom till all are consumed) goes regularly over
his pastures every morning in the autumn, before the cattle are turned
in, to secure the first gathering of the fungus crop. Sheep, squirrels,
birds, and many other animals commonly eat raw mushrooms and other
fungi.

=Yellow-gilled Mushroom.= Fig. 6.

(_Russula alutacea._) 536.

This is one of the principal ornaments of our woods in summer and
autumn, and is readily recognized by its thick gills, which are of a
subdued but decided buff-yellow colour, and the somewhat viscid red, or
pale crimson top. The stem is stout, white or rose-colour, ringless,
and solid; the whole plant fleshy, and frequently very large. The gills
immediately distinguish it from the emetic mushroom (fig. 21, Poisonous
Sheet), as in the latter they are pure white, and always remain so;
there are, too, other great differences between the two species noted
in the description of the emetic mushroom.

The taste of _Russula alutacea_ is particularly agreeable and mild,
and, when well prepared for the table, few species prove more
satisfactory to the consumer. Dr. Badham (by an error) takes some
exception to it.

=Furrowed Clavaria.= Fig. 7.

(_Clavaria rugosa._) 827.

This species, common in woody places, is usually pure white, pale grey,
or shaded with cream-colour; the clubs are irregular, somewhat wrinkled
and tough. Treated in the same way as _C. vermiculata_, it will prove
equally acceptable, agreeable, and novel. All the white-spored species
are believed to be esculent.

I have not tried _C. coralloides_, an allied species, which is greatly
branched, but it is esteemed as an esculent.

=Chantarelle.= Fig. 8.

(_Cantharellus cibarius._) 539.

The chantarelle cannot be called very common, but it is abundant in
many districts; its solid, ringless stem, fleshy body, thick swollen
veins in the place of gills, and brilliant yellow colour, at once serve
to distinguish it from every other species. “Its smell,” says Berkeley,
“is like that of ripe apricots.” Sometimes (as I have frequently seen
in Epping Forest and elsewhere) immense numbers grow together; at
other times they are very few. Chantarelles often cover a hedge-bank
where there are trees close by; and wherever they do appear they must
enlist the admiration of the passer-by, for they look as if made of
solid gold. When cooked, this species has a rich mushroom-like flavour
peculiarly its own, and may be prepared for the table in various ways,
according to the fancy of the consumer: but being big and solid, it
should be cut up; and, if stewed, allowed to simmer gently, and be
served with pepper, salt, and butter. There is a curious, thin, pale,
slender variety, found growing in pastures about old stumps, which I
have never eaten, and from its curious aspect, habitat, and comparative
rarity, I think it hardly worth the experiment, but it may be esculent.
There is a very pale, almost white, variety of the chantarelle, and one
quite without the apricot odour.

=Horse Mushroom.= Fig. 9.

(_Agaricus_ [_Psalliota_] _arvensis._) 317.

This species, the _A. exquisitus_ of Dr. Badham, is very nearly
allied to the meadow mushroom, and frequently grows with it, but it
is coarser, and has not the same delicious flavour. It is usually
much larger, often attaining enormous dimensions; and it turns a
brownish-yellow as soon as broken or bruised. The top in good specimens
is smooth and snowy white; the gills are not the pure pink of the
meadow mushroom, but dirty brownish-white, ultimately becoming brown
black. It has a big, ragged, floccose ring, and its pithy stem is
inclined to be hollow. It is _the_ species exposed for sale in Covent
Garden Market. Indeed, after knowing the market for many years, I have
rarely seen any other species there; when the true mushroom, however,
_is_ there, it is frequently mingled with horse mushrooms, which seems
to show that the dealers do not know one from the other. In the wet
days of autumn, children, idlers, and beggars go a few miles from town
into the meadows to gather whatever they can find in the mushroom
line; they then bring their dirty stock to market, where it is sold to
fashionable purchasers; stale, vapid, and with no taste but a bad one.

When young and fresh, the horse mushroom is a most desirable addition
to the bill of fare; it yields an abundant gravy, and the flesh is firm
and delicious. It is a valuable plant when freshly gathered; but when
stale it becomes tough and leathery, and without aroma or juice.

There is a curious large, brown, hairy variety, of rather uncommon
occurrence, similar to the hairy variety of the meadow mushroom,
the _A. villaticus_ of Dr. Badham (given in error by the Rev. M. J.
Berkeley as a variety of the meadow mushroom, and since corrected by
him). It is a splendid plant, but, I think, very rare. I have only seen
it once.

There is also another large, sienna-red, rank-looking variety, I have
often gathered in certain situations under trees, &c., that few would
be tempted to eat; it is probably a luxuriant, overgrown, disagreeable
thing, that would give one a stomach-ache, and in place of better
species is not worth experimenting upon.

Many country-folks readily distinguish the meadow from the horse
mushroom, and have a great antipathy to the latter, although they are
always willing to put it into the jar as one of the ingredients of
ketchup. Opinions appear to differ greatly regarding the excellence
of this species. Mr. Penrose writes—“I think young, and especially
button specimens of this, very indigestible; until they are well opened
out, they are unfit for use.” Such, however, I must say, is not my
experience of button specimens.

There is a strong odour attached both to this fungus and its spawn,
the ground just below the surface being frequently white with the
latter. If horsedung be kicked aside in a rich pasture frequented
by graminivorous animals, the earth will frequently present a snowy
whiteness from the spawn of this species, from which the young
individuals may be seen springing up. The specimen figured is not fully
expanded, but is represented in the condition best for the table.

I once saw a sheep eat a large specimen with great apparent gusto,
although the fungus was full of maggots.

=Fir-cone Mushroom.= Fig. 10.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _strobiliformis._) 5.

If colour is left out of the question, no finer species of Agaric
than this one grows in the country. It attains a very large size in
well-grown specimens, but is rare. I have but once found it, and
then it was sprinkled pretty plentifully along the borders of a fir
plantation in Hampshire, not far from Winchester. The solid compact
flesh, fine ring, bulbous stem, and patched top, well mark this
species. The persistent patches on the top are not very unlike the
scales of a fir-cone, hence its specific name; the gills do not reach
the stem.

Its undisputed esculent qualities are of a high order, and it is to be
regretted that its comparative rarity must prevent its being so well
known and appreciated as its merits deserve. The specimen figured is
not fully expanded, at which time most fungi are fuller of flavour.

A very common species of _Amanita_ (_A. vaginatus_), said to be
esculent (and eaten by Mr. Penrose), I have not tried.

=Orange-milk Mushroom.= Fig. 11.

(_Lactarius deliciosus._) 502.

There are but few species of the _Lactarius_, or milk-bearing group,
that can be recommended for culinary purposes. This species, however,
and fig. 26 are exceptions, and there can be no fear of mistaking the
orange-milk mushroom for any other species. It is at once known by
the orange-coloured milk which it exudes on being bruised, cut, or
broken; this milk soon becoming dull green. The plant is solid, almost
corky, and the richly-coloured top is commonly, but not always, marked
with deeper coloured zones, as in the figure. It always grows in fir
plantations, and I have found it on the Kentish Town side of London,
almost before the smoke of the city is left behind. It is somewhat
local, although at times it grows in large numbers, but always amongst
firs. Like several other excellent species, the taste is at times
rather sharp when raw.

When cooked with taste and care, it is one of the greatest delicacies
of the vegetable kingdom, its flesh being more crisp and solid than
many species.

One or two milk-mushrooms, which had better be avoided, bear
brimstone-coloured milk, or milk which changes to a brimstone or
burnt sienna colour; they are figured on the Poisonous Sheet, figs.
20 and 28; but _Lactarius deliciosus_ can never be mistaken for any
other plant if the deep orange (or red) and ultimately green milk is
observed. Figs. 20 and 28 are not peculiar to fir woods.

=Purple Cobweb-Mushroom.= Fig. 12.

(_Cortinarius_ [_Inoloma_] _violaceus._) 420.

This is one of the best-marked of all edible fungi, and at the same
time one of the very best for esculent purposes. It cannot be called
common, although I have often found it close to London. It appears to
principally grow in _open places_ in woods. When young, it looks like
a bright purple silk ball in the grass, and when gathered the bulbous
stem is almost as large as the top itself. There is always a cottony
web, like cobweb (which represents the ring), stretching from the edge
of the pileus to the stem, and this web soon takes its colour from the
red spores, which are plentifully produced, colouring the gills and
part of the stalk a red colour, very similar in tint to the rust of
iron; when cut, the flesh is of a subdued lilac tint, and firm.

Broiled with a steak, this is a most exquisitely rich luxury, much
resembling the meadow mushroom in flavour, but altogether firmer, and
more meaty and substantial. I am always glad to find this species, and
it is next to impossible to mistake it for any other.

=Maned Mushroom.= Fig. 13.

(_Coprinus comatus._) 374.

This fungus should be gathered for the table when the gills are white
or just changing to pink, and before they are black, in which latter
state (as the plant is ultimately deliquescent), it is unfit for food.
If I had my choice, I think there is no species I should prefer before
this one; it is singularly rich, tender, and delicious. Those found
growing amongst short grass, on lawns, or by roadsides, are best; there
is one form of it which grows in dirty, sticky places, in brickfields,
dustyards, &c., that I should not like to recommend. When gathered
in a rich pasture, it is of snowy whiteness, the top being somewhat
fleshy, cylindrical, and broken up into white clothy patches; there is
a white, powdery, fragile ring round the hollow stem, which is soon
broken, and falls away.

_Coprinus comatus_—the “Agaric of Civilization”—is common in all the
London parks in October. A closely-allied species, found at the base
of old stumps and palings, and on the ground (_C. atramentarius_),
is sometimes eaten. I have not tried it, but Mr. Penrose and several
friends have a word to say in its favour.

=Scaly Mushroom.= Fig. 14.

(_Agaricus_ [_Lepiota_] _procerus._) 13.

Agaricus procerus everywhere enjoys a good reputation, and as it is
far from uncommon, the lovers of fungi can generally make sure of this
species for a treat. When or at what time it was ever sold at Covent
Garden Market, I do not know; for although more than one book says it
is there displayed for sale, I never saw, or could hear of it. It grows
in pastures, and is known by its long bulbous spotted stem, by the ring
that will slip up and down, by the very scaly top, and the gills far
removed from the insertion of the stalk. When the stem is removed, a
large hollow socket remains,—just the place to insert a large piece of
butter in the broiling process, when, with pepper and salt, it forms a
dish that if once tried must please the most fastidious. I think the
plants gathered in the pastures are best. I have sometimes found most
enormous specimens growing in fir plantations, but I do not think them
equal for the table to the plants which abound in rich meadows. The
flesh is a little inclined to change colour; and there is an allied
species, _A. rachodes_, much more _robust_, but often smaller, that
changes colour to a deep yellowish-brown when broken, and has a smooth
stem, that cannot be so highly recommended, if it even be wholesome. I
have generally found it growing on dark and shady hedge-banks, and know
several persons who have eaten it and speak well of it.

=Plum Mushroom.= Fig. 15.

(_Agaricus_ [_Clitopilus_] _prunulus._) 225.

The pure pink gills running considerably down the ringless stem, and
the fresh and fragrant smell of meal, at once distinguish this species
from all others. It grows in and near woods in the autumn, evidently
giving a preference to the open places and borders; the solid stem
and the very fleshy top are white, or some shade of very pale grey.
Dr. Badham and some other authors refer to our plant under the name
of _A. orcellus_, and some botanists consider the true “orcellus”
and the true “prunulus” distinct but closely allied species. There
is also a vexatious confusion between this species and fig. 19, St.
George’s Mushroom (_A. gambosus_). This latter is a spring plant,
and is frequently and erroneously called _A. prunulus_. They have no
characters in common, and, in fact, more distinct Agarics do not exist.

Returning to the true Plum Mushroom (fig. 15), I have only to say that,
however prepared, it is most excellent; the flesh is firm and juicy,
and full of flavour; and whether broiled, stewed, or however prepared,
it is a most delicious morsel. I have never seen it in very large
quantities; it is scattered over the woods north of London, but not in
profusion.

=Curled Helvella.= Fig. 16.

(_Helvella crispa._) 1673.

This singular-looking plant is nearly allied to the true Morel, and
closely resembles it in flavour. It is hardly possible to mistake it
for any other species, unless it be the next, which has a black top,
and is rarer (_H. lacunosa_), 1674, and also esculent. _H. crispa_
generally grows on shady banks, or on the edges of pastures and lawns,
and amongst dead leaves, under the shade of trees. I have only once
seen it near London, and that was in the neighbourhood of Caen Wood,
Hampstead; sometimes, however, I have found it in immense quantities
(numbering hundreds of specimens) on rich sloping banks. The stem is
full of wrinkles and holes, and the top lobed and deflexed in a very
singular and irregular manner.

If stewed slowly and with care, this species will prove very pleasant
eating, and will exude a delicious gravy. The flesh is firm and crisp,
and greatly resembles the Morel. It may be easily dried for future use
in a current of air, or in a dry place; in this state, specimens are at
times kept threaded on strings, ready to impart their truly delicious
flavour to stews and gravies. (See description of fig. 20.)

I once saw a batch of specimens which had suddenly sprung up close to
some ants’ nests, and thousands of the ants were swarming over and
examining the fungi, and running in and out of the holes in the stems
in the most amusing manner.

=Oyster Mushroom.= Fig. 17.

(_Agaricus_ [_Pleurotus_] _ostreatus._) 179.

I have always found this far from uncommon species growing on old
_elm_ trunks, although it is not at all particular as to its habitat,
often appearing on laburnum, apple, ash, &c. It usually grows in large
masses, one plant above another, forming a very handsome object on
old tree-stems. The gills _and spores are white_, the former running
down the stem, and the top dingy—sometimes nearly white; at others,
full brown. An allied species, _A. euosmus_, with pale lilac spores,
and a scent like that of Tarragon (_Artemisia dracunculus_), is “not
esculent,” and is said to grow in the spring. I commonly find the
former growing in spring, although it is said usually to grow late in
the autumn, or winter.

Perhaps a taste for this species has to be acquired; but though it
is without doubt edible, I have never thought well of it. The flesh
possesses a certain amount of firmness, and produces an abundant and
savoury juice; but I am inclined to place it as the species of least
value for culinary purposes. It has, however, been highly recommended
by some; and a dish of this species stewed before a very hot fire has
proved as enjoyable and nourishing “as half a pound of fresh meat.”
Tastes are allowed to differ; and perhaps the opinion of some of my
readers may differ from mine if they try this species, which, from its
peculiar appearance, there is little chance of mistaking for any other.

=Lilac-stemmed Mushroom.= Fig. 18.

(_Agaricus_ [_Tricholoma_] _personatus._) 65.

Although this plant at times appears in pastures near London, it is not
very common. It is very nearly allied to and extremely like the next
species (fig. 19), from which it is principally distinguished by its
growing in the autumn, and having a lilac band round the upper part of
the stem. This lilac stain, however, is not invariably present; and a
species that is altogether (stem and top too) lilac, or full violet,
should be avoided (_A. nudus_). The Purple Cobweb-Mushroom (fig.
12) is easily distinguished by its rust of iron gills. In _Agaricus
personatus_ they are white—sometimes dirty white; the solid ringless
stem is rather rough; and the top is smooth, and exceedingly firm and
fleshy; the plant grows late in the autumn, on downs, and in rich,
short pastures.

Opinions vary a little regarding the value of this species for
gastronomic purposes; but I think, if young plants are gathered, in
_dry weather_, and carefully broiled or stewed, few fungi will prove
more truly delicious. From my own experience, I have the highest
opinion of it; but the plant readily absorbs moisture, and during wet
weather is heavy and of little worth.

As these pages are passing through the press, my friend, Mr. Thomas
Moore, of the Botanic Garden, Chelsea, informs me that this autumn
(1874) he saw large quantities of _A. personatus_ exposed for sale
in the markets of Nottingham, under the name of “blue-bottoms,” the
vendors stating the fungus to be “as good as mushrooms.”

=St. George’s Mushroom.= Fig. 19.

(_Agaricus_ [_Tricholoma_] _gambosus._) 62.

The St. George’s Mushroom is fit for any saint in the calendar. It
comes up in the spring, near St. George’s Day, when few other species
are to be found. It is in every part almost white, or with a slight
inclination to ochre; but sometimes the colour is a little fuller. The
stem and top are singularly firm, fleshy, and solid, and the latter, in
hot weather is inclined to split. It grows in rings, on rich lawns and
pastures, and has a strong, fragrant, enticing odour.

It is a little like _A. crustuliniformis_ (fig. 24, Poisonous Sheet),
which, however, differs in various ways, principally in discharging
_brown spores_ instead of _white_, as in _A. gambosus_. The poisonous
plant has an odour like the flowers of laurel, and _grows in woods in
the autumn_.

Few species are more substantial and delightful for the table. I (with
many others) look upon it with unusual favour, as one of the rarest
delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. Like the last, it is absorbent of
water, and should be gathered in dry weather. I think it is local, and
certainly uncommon near London.

It is sometimes erroneously referred to under the name of _A. prunulus_.

=Edible Morel.= Fig. 20.

(_Morchella esculenta._) 1668.

I know a wood in Bedfordshire called “Morel Wood,” where, in the
spring, this rare and delicious fungus _abounds_. It is generally far
from common, and occurs, perhaps, in greater abundance in the south of
England. It appears, however, to be pretty well known and in general
request amongst housewives, north and south, for the truly exquisite
flavour it imparts to gravies and made dishes; and being readily dried,
it can be kept for immediate use at any season of the year. The figure
shows exactly what the Morel is like; the honeycombed pitted top is
_hollow_, and the almost smooth stem partly so. It yields a delicious
ketchup; and the hollow top, well stuffed with minced veal, and dressed
between slices of bacon, is a dish of rare and exquisite flavour.

This notice of the Morel would not be complete without reference to the
“Giant Morel” (_Morchella crassipes_) found a few years ago in this
country, for the first time, by my friend Miss Lott, of Barton Hall,
South Devon. This species, which attains enormous dimensions, is not
quite so crisp or rapidly dried as the last, but, as an object of food,
is fully as exquisite for flavouring sauces, and other purposes.

=Liver Fungus.= Fig. 21.

(_Fistulina hepatica._) 716.

This singular fungus is not always _common_. It generally grows on
the trunks of old oaks. I have seen it in immense quantities on the
ancient oaks of Sherwood Forest, whilst at times oak districts appear
to be singularly free from its presence. It externally resembles a very
large tongue or a huge piece of liver lolling out from the tree, and
when incised a red juice plentifully exudes. It is truly “a vegetable
beefsteak,” for the taste resembles meat in a remarkable manner. A good
way of preparing it is to cut it up in thin slices and broil it with a
steak, and dress with butter, salt, and pepper. There is a slight but
very perceptible _acid_ flavour with it, which gives considerable zest
and piquancy to a dish of the “vegetable beefsteak,” as it is called,
rendering it a “treat for an epicure.”

It rarely grows on any tree but the oak, but I have seen it on the ash,
beech, and other trees.

=Spine-bearing Mushroom.= Fig. 22.

(_Hydnum repandum._) 718.

There is little fear of mistaking this for any other species, as the
awl-shaped spines on the under surface are a characteristic feature of
the small genus, _Hydnum_. All the species of any size enjoy a good
character; _Hydnum repandum_ being the only _common_ plant of the genus.

It is sometimes most abundant in the few woody places remaining at the
north of London, and may often be found on shady roadsides in the humid
weather of autumn.

Its taste is slightly pungent when uncooked; but after being submitted
to the culinary processes of the kitchen, it affords a charming
addition to the table. Its flesh is very firm and delicious; yet,
being somewhat dry (like fig. 11), the addition of some sauce or gravy
lends an additional relish to the stew.

The colour of the fungus is exactly like that of a cracknel; the
smooth top is frequently irregular, and the pure solid stem often out
of the centre. The top sometimes partakes of a warmer, almost sienna,
colouring.

=Viscid White Mushroom.= Fig. 23.

(_Hygrophorus virgineus._) 470.

This species, exquisite in form and flavour, is one of the prettiest
ornaments of our lawns, downs, and short pastures at the fall of the
year. In these situations it may be found in every part of the kingdom.
It is essentially waxy, and feels and looks precisely as if made of the
purest virgin wax. The stem is firm, stuffed, and attenuated, and the
gills (singularly distant from each other) run far down the stem; it
changes colour a little when getting old, at which time it is unfit for
culinary purposes.

A batch of fresh specimens, broiled or stewed with taste and care, will
prove agreeable, succulent, and flavorous eating, and may sometimes be
obtained when other species are not to be had.

Several allied species enjoy the reputation of being esculent, notably
_H. pratensis_ and _H. niveus_; and my friend Mr. F. C. Penrose has
eaten, and speaks favourably of, _H. psittacinus_—a highly ornamental
yellow species, with a green stem, sometimes common enough in rich
pastures (and generally _said_ to be very suspicious).

=Clouded Mushroom.= Fig. 24.

(_Agaricus_ [_Clitocybe_] _nebularis._) 78.

Common (in certain places), but rare near London. This species appears
late in the autumn and generally grows on dead leaves in moist places,
principally on the borders of woods. The top is lead-colour or grey, at
first _clouded_ grey,—hence its name; the stem is stout, elastic, and
striate, with the _white_ gills running considerably down the ringless
stem, in the manner shown in the drawing.

The gastronomic excellences of the species are well known. When
gathered, it has a wholesome and powerful odour; and when cooked, the
firm and fragrant flesh has a particularly agreeable and palatable
taste.

=Giant Puff-ball.= Fig. 25.

(_Lycoperdon giganteum._) 930.

This species of puff-ball is not always a “giant,” and may frequently
be found no larger than an apple. It is somewhat local, and I think
only attains gigantic proportions in certain situations. I have, for
instance, seen specimens growing in rich pastures in Nottinghamshire,
so much larger than the specimen figured that the latter would appear
a perfect _dwarf_ beside them. It may be found, in some of the meadows
near Highgate and Hampstead, quite as big as our figure; but indeed
there is little fear of a mistake, if attention is paid to the smooth
skin,—like white kid leather.

Young specimens must be chosen for cooking, such as are firm and
snow-white, inside and out; for when the fungus is getting ripe and
yellowish, and dusty inside, or when it is saturated with rain and
the interior is a mass of yellow decomposition, of course it must be
rejected.

It is known by its large size, its pure white colour, and its _smooth
skin_.

To cook this species satisfactorily and well, cut the specimens up into
slices of half an inch in thickness, remove the skin or bark, dip the
slices into yolk of egg, and fry in fresh butter. It will then eat with
a delicate and delicious flavour; or served with jam or jelly it is an
excellent substitute for pastry.

=Pear-Milk Mushroom.= Fig. 26.

(_Lactarius volemum._) 508.

This species is recognized by its very rich coloration, firm flesh,
mild taste, white milk (changing to a dull dark umber-colour where the
plant is bruised or broken), white gills becoming warm yellow-buff, and
the full sienna top; the stem is solid, and the plant grows in woods.

The taste of this plant, when fried, has aptly been compared to lamb’s
kidney, and resembles in flavour the only other edible Lactarius—viz.
_L. deliciosus_, fig. 11. It is a rare species in this country.

=White Fir-wood Mushroom.= Fig. 27.

(_Agaricus_ [_Clitocybe_] _dealbatus._) 80.

This pretty little fungus commonly grows in, and about the
neighbourhood of, fir plantations, but will occasionally come up
elsewhere. Its top is white, smooth, and _exceedingly like ivory_. It
is shining, waved, fleshy, and inclined to be irregular; the gills are
thin, white, and run down the stem.

When clean, young, and fresh specimens are broiled with butter, it
is a delicacy of the very highest degree,—at once tender, juicy, and
delightful. Its charming flavour is exceeded by very few other fungi.

Several allied species are very good, notably _Agaricus odorus_, which
exhales a most delicious odour of melilot.

I used to eat all sorts of things for this species before I properly
knew it, and never felt the worse for the mistakes I made. It would be
useless to enumerate them all here, without figures and descriptions,
but one was the common _Agaricus subpulverulentus_.

=Fairy-ring Champignon.= Fig. 28.

(_Marasmius oreades._) 553.

If possible, this species is better than the last, and no
recommendation can be too strong for it. The exquisitely rich and
delicious flavour of this plant when broiled with butter must be tasted
to be understood. It is firmer than the meadow mushroom, and, whilst
having its peculiar aroma, it possesses it in a concentrated form. Even
Mr. Berkeley, who would be the last man in the world to subscribe to a
doubtful species, says, “_it is the very best of all our fungi_.” It
may be pickled, used for ketchup, or dried for future use.

_Marasmius oreades_ grows in rings in short pastures, on downs, and by
roadsides everywhere (_but never in woods_). It is somewhat tough, the
solid stem particularly so, the gills wide apart, and cream-coloured.

This species has no downy hairs at the base of the stem. Certain other
species of _Marasmius_, frequently found growing on dead leaves in
woods, and possessing this hairy down, are to be avoided. There is a
poisonous plant sometimes found in similar situations, and often _with_
the Fairy-Ring Champignon (_M. urens_), fig. 30, Poisonous Sheet. I
once tested its qualities (by accident). See description.

=Truffle.= Fig. 29.

(_Tuber æstivum._) 1916.

The truffle is a subterranean fungus, invariably found under trees,
often just appearing above the surface of the ground, and occasionally
exposed for sale in our markets, where it will realize at times as
much as 5_s._ per pound. The truffle is esteemed by many as the most
delicious object of food in the whole vegetable kingdom, and by others
it is looked upon with aversion or positive disgust. The odour is very
powerful, and is relished by some individuals, and very much disliked
by others. It is looked upon as a great delicacy boiled, or simply
roasted in hot ashes.

Besides the truffle sold in Covent Garden Market, there are many other
species found in this country, of various forms and qualities. _T.
æstivum_ varies much in size, is irregular in shape, black, rough, and
warted.

I must confess that, at first, I regarded the truffle with loathing;
but now I have learned to greatly esteem it. It makes a capital
ingredient for gravies, stuffings, and meat pies.

It is frequently referred to under the name of _T. cibarium_.

POISONOUS MUSHROOMS.

=Bundled Stump-mushroom.= Fig. 1.

(_Agaricus_ [_Hypholoma_] _fascicularis._) 331.

This species occurs everywhere at the bases of old stumps, always
in groups. The stem is hollow, and the gills are greenish and
sub-deliquescent. There is a heavy odour attached to it, and the taste
is bitter and repulsive.

=Red Juice-Mushroom.= Fig. 2.

(_Hygrophorus conicus._) 482.

This truly handsome fungus is common in pastures and roadsides. It
turns purple-black when bruised, broken, or old, and it has a strong
and very forbidding odour.

It is of a succulent substance, and is not unfrequently a brilliant
yellow or deep orange, in place of crimson or scarlet.

[Illustration]

=Trellised Clathrus.= Fig. 3.

(_Clathrus cancellatus._) 917.

I am indebted to the late Mrs. Gulson, of Eastcliff, near Teignmouth,
Devon, for the original plant from which this figure was taken. It is
of extreme beauty and rarity, seldom occurring in this country, but
common enough in the south of Europe.

The fetor exhaled from this species is highly disagreeable, and can
be compared with nothing but itself. It is so horribly repulsive and
loathsome as to make a mere examination of the plant a matter of the
greatest difficulty. In the young state the odour is less strong, or
altogether absent.

=Fetid Leather-fungus.= Fig. 4.

(_Thelephora palmata._) 760.

This soft fungus bears a distant resemblance to some species of
Clavaria. It is uncommon, grows upon the ground, and possesses a very
disagreeable odour.

=Olive-gilled Mushroom.= Fig. 5.

(_Agaricus_ [_Hypholoma_] _sublateritius._) 328.

This plant is allied to fig. 1, and, like it, grows upon old stumps in
woods, and has, too, a disagreeable smell.

=Astringent Mushroom.= Fig. 6.

(_Panus stypticus._) 582.

Is very common on old dead trees and stumps in woods, and had better be
avoided.

=Matrix-bearing Mushroom.= Fig. 7.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _Phalloides._) 2.

Common everywhere in woods; this handsome Agaric is known to be highly
dangerous. It is allied to fig. 8, as will be seen by glancing at the
figures.

All parts are nearly white, excepting the top, which generally takes
some pale shade of subdued yellow or green.

=Poisonous Spring Mushroom.= Fig. 8.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _vernus._) 1.

Belonging to a very suspicious group, this Agaric is supposed to be
very poisonous. It grows in woods, _in the spring_, and is white in all
its parts.

It is rare, but I have found it close to London.

=Magpie Mushroom.= Fig. 9.

(_Coprinus picaceus._) 379.

This, too, is equally rare, though in some places, as in the
Herefordshire woods, it is by no means infrequent. It is a very
handsome but suspicious-looking plant, with the top broken up into
large patches of black and white. It grows on roadsides, and has a
disagreeable odour.

=Gloomy Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 10.

(_Boletus luridus._) 607.

This is one of the handsomest ornaments of our woods and woody places.
The prevailing tint is umber, relieved on the under surface by bright
red, sometimes approaching crimson, or even vermilion; when broken or
bruised it rapidly changes colour to blue. It is very common in all
places where there are trees, and often comes up early in the year. It
is probably more or less poisonous, though I have known it to be eaten
without _fatal_ effects.

Mr. Penrose once found a specimen as large as a milking-stool, exactly
three feet in circumference.

=Griping Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 11.

(_Lactarius torminosus._) 488.

This dangerous fungus is at once known by the hairy margin of the top,
which is rolled inwards. The milk that exudes when the plant is broken
is acrid and biting, and does not change colour as does fig. 11, Edible
Sheet, and figs. 20 and 28, Poisonous Sheet.

Though said to be common, I think it is somewhat rare; it now and then
occurs in solitary specimens in the woods and open places near London.

=Ruddy Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 12.

(_Lactarius rufus._) 512.

This is one of the most deadly of all British fungi, and generally
grows in fir woods; the white milk is singularly acrid and corrosive,
which is perhaps its best distinguishing mark. It bears some
resemblance to fig. 26, Edible Sheet, but the milk of the _L. volemum_
is mild, and changes colour to dark brown when exposed to the action of
the air; whilst in _L. rufus_ it remains white, and the milk is highly
pungent.

=Fly Mushroom.= Fig. 13.

(_Agaricus_ [_Amanita_] _muscarius._) 3.

Few fungi can exceed this well-known species in beauty. It is somewhat
local, and loves birch woods, where it sometimes makes the very ground
almost scarlet with its profuse growth. Sometimes the top is deep
yellow or orange, but it is usually brilliant scarlet; if the top skin
is stripped off, the flesh just beneath is seen to be bright yellow,
and the rest of the flesh white. It is allied to fig. 1, Edible Sheet,
but the flesh of the latter is not yellow under the skin; and _A.
rubescens turns reddish_ in every part as soon as bruised or broken.

=Poisonous Forest Mushroom.= Fig. 14.

(_Agaricus_ [_Entoloma_] _sinuatus._) 212.

Without doubt, this is a very poisonous plant, for I once cooked a very
small piece of a specimen for luncheon, and was very nearly poisoned to
death thereby.

I did not eat a twentieth part of the specimen gathered—I am sure
not so much as a quarter of an ounce—and the taste was by no means
disagreeable. But mark the result. (It must be borne in mind, too,
that though I fell so dangerously ill, I never till the last moment
_suspected the fungus_. Such a confirmed toadstool-eater was I, that I
laid my symptoms to anything but the true cause.)

About a quarter of an hour after luncheon _I left home_, and was
immediately overtaken by a strange nervous, gloomy, low-spirited
feeling quite new to me. Soon a severe headache added its charms to my
feelings, and then swimming of the brain commenced, with violent pains
in the stomach.

I had now great difficulty to keep upon my legs at all; my senses
all appeared leaving me, and every object appeared to be moving with
_death-like stillness_ from side to side, up and down, or round and
round.

More dead than alive, I soon returned home, and was horrified to find
_two others_ (whom I had invited to partake of my repast) in exactly
the same condition as myself. At this moment, and not before, I thought
of _Agaricus sinuatus_. These two others had suffered precisely as I
had done, and we all three were apparently dying fast. They, however,
were attacked by violent vomiting, which I imagine helped to hasten
their recovery; for after a few days of sickness and nausea (with
medical assistance) they got well; but it was not so with me; for
although I had at first the inclination, I had not the strength left
to vomit. During the latter part of the first day I was, however, so
continually and fearfully purged, and suffered so much from headache
and swimming of the brain, that I really thought every moment would be
my last.

I was very ill for the next four or five days; suffered from loathing
and lassitude; fell into deep sleep, long and troubled; at times found
all my joints quite stiff; at others, found everything swimming before
me; and it was not till a fortnight had elapsed that every bodily
derangement had left me.

Fig. 14 is a portrait of the plant in question, taken before the
culinary operations were commenced. No one, after seeing this picture,
can fail to recognize the thing itself if found. It is large, has dull
flesh-coloured gills, the top is a little downy, it smells like meal,
and grows in woods.

It can always be found sparingly in autumn in the woods north of London.

=Fiery Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 15.

(_Lactarius piperatus._) 500.

I imagine there are very few species in this country more dangerous
than this one. So essentially and powerfully acrid is the milk, that
if it be allowed to trickle over tender hands it will sting like the
contact of nettles; and if a drop is placed on the lips or tongue, the
sensation is like the scalding of boiling water, or the burning of a
red-hot iron.

It is common in all woods; is particularly firm and solid, but rather
brittle. In colour it is sometimes as white as snow, at others it
inclines a little to cream; the milk is white and unchangeable, and
usually abundant.

=Fetid Mushroom.= Fig. 16.

(_Russula fœtens._) 530.

Less rigid than other _Russulæ_, brittle, and sticky in all its parts,
always slug-eaten, and possessed of a wet insufferable odour that can
be likened to nothing in nature, this species cannot in reason be
anything but deleterious and pernicious to human life. Slugs certainly
highly relish it; for although it is one of our commonest species, yet
it is invariably much eaten by slugs: frequently the gills are covered
with these creatures, or are even completely eaten away.

=Blood-stained Mushroom.= Fig. 17.

(_Russula sanguinea._) 518.

This acrid species of Russula, sometimes found in woods, is by no
means uncommon; its well-marked blood-red top and _firm substance_ at
once distinguish it from other species. The gills are white, and run a
little down the stem.

=Livid Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 18.

(_Lactarius pyrogalus._) 498.

The highly acrid white milk abundantly exuded from this plant, its
depressed and zoned top, its peculiar livid coloration and yellowish
gills, distinguish it from the other milk-mushrooms.

It grows in woods and meadows.

=False Chantarelle.= Fig. 19.

(_Cantharellus aurantiacus._) 540.

Is known by its smaller size, its gills being far thinner and more
crowded than in the true chantarelle; the stem frequently deep umber at
the base, and the gills or veins darker than the top.

It is a species to be rejected for culinary purposes.

=Yellow Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 20.

(_Lactarius theiogalus._) 503.

This is a beautiful plant, with an odour that is far from disagreeable.
It is _sometimes_ without the zones on the top which are shown in our
figure, but it is immediately known by the change of colour which
takes place in the milk on breaking the fungus; this is at first pure
white, but in less than a minute the milk turns to a brilliant yellow.

It is not uncommon, and may generally be found at Hampstead in the
woods; and it is supposed to be poisonous.

=Emetic Mushroom.= Fig. 21.

(_Russula emetica._) 528.

This is a magnificent but certainly rare species, but it has a very bad
name, and is supposed to possess highly dangerous qualities. The skin
is scarlet, and may be readily peeled off, and then the pink flesh is
displayed beneath, which is its great characteristic; the gills are
pure white, and do not reach the stem; the top is highly polished, and
varies from scarlet and crimson to a faint rose-colour, and may now and
then be found shaded with purple.

It attains a large size, and loves damp places in woods, and the
neighbourhood of trees.

=Slimy Dung-Mushroom.= Fig. 22.

(_Agaricus_ [_Psalliota_] _semiglobatus._) 327.

This extremely common little sticky Agaric grows in pastures, on dung,
everywhere; the stem is covered with a glutinous thick slime.

It is regarded as poisonous.

=Sulphury Mushroom.= Fig. 23.

(_Agaricus_ [_Tricholoma_] _sulfureus._) 55.

In woody places at the south of London this very disagreeable
but handsome species now and then puts in an appearance. It has
a particularly nasty penetrating smell, which has been compared
with “gas-tar.” The stem is firm, as is the whole plant, and
sulphur-coloured.

It is probably a very dangerous species, but I have seldom met with it.

=Incrusted Mushroom.= Fig. 24.

(_Agaricus_ [_Hebelonia_] _crustuliniformis._) 278.

Growing in woods, this deleterious species is extremely common, and
without doubt very dangerous. The dirty pale-umber gills, and its
habitat and time of growth—viz. the autumn—at once distinguish it from
the delicious _A. gambosus_, fig. 19, Edible Sheet. It has a powerful
and highly disagreeable odour, and brown spores, and we believe it is
often mistaken by the ignorant for the true mushroom.

=Verdigris Mushroom.= Fig. 25.

(_Agaricus_ [_Psalliota_] _æruginosus._) 322.

The verdigris-green colour of the top of this mushroom is not
permanent, but consists of green slime that soon gets washed off by the
rain, flaked with white scales. The stem is hollow, and the top fleshy.

It generally grows about stumps, is a very handsome fungus, and is
doubtless poisonous.

=Fiery Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 26.

(_Boletus piperatus._) 597.

Never attains a larger size than the specimen on the sheet; indeed it
is one of the smallest of all the _Boleti_. The taste is highly acrid;
it is therefore looked upon with grave suspicion, and it is probably a
very dangerous plant.

It grows in woods, but is rare.

=Satanical Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 27.

(_Boletus Satanas._) 606.

The specimen figured I gathered in Crab-tree Wood, near Winchester,
during an architectural excursion to St. Cross. I have only once
seen anything of it elsewhere, though my late friend Mrs. Gulson, of
Eastcliff, has sent it on to me several times from the neighbourhood of
Teignmouth.

Without doubt it is by far the most splendid of all the _Boleti_. The
top is nearly white, very fleshy, and a little viscid; the stem is
firm, exquisitely coloured, and beautifully reticulated; the under
surface is brilliant crimson. It usually attains a large size, grows in
woods, and as soon as broken or bruised, changes to blue.

In all likelihood it is highly poisonous.

=Pungent Milk-Mushroom.= Fig. 28.

(_Lactarius acris._) 505.

As its name indicates, this is a very acrid and dangerous fungus. It
is said to be rare, but I have sometimes known it to be extremely
abundant in the woods near London. When cut or broken, the flesh and
white milk change to a dull-sienna red; this distinguishes it from all
other mushrooms. To observe the change of colour it requires at times a
little patience; for I have known half an hour, or even an hour, elapse
before the change of colour is manifest.

=Bitter Tube-Mushroom.= Fig. 29.

(_Boletus felleus._) 617.

Said to be rare, but generally abundant in Epping Forest. I have found
it in abundance in Nottinghamshire, and know it well; it was the first
Boletus I ever drew, and I was then nearly eating it for _Boletus
edulis_.

The bitter taste of _B. felleus_, the _flesh-coloured tubes_, the
flesh-colour of the top when broken, the reticulated stem, and the pink
spores are the distinguishing marks of this species. It is poisonous.

=False Champignon.= Fig. 30.

(_Marasmius urens._) 550.

The more slender habit, the mealy stem, white downy base, and the
narrower, darker, and crowded gills, distinguish this counterfeit from
the true champignon (fig. 28, Edible Sheet). It sometimes accompanies
the latter plant, but with ordinary care can be detected in a moment.
It grows in _woods_, as well as in pastures and by roadsides.

I think I was once poisoned by it in Bedfordshire. I well remember,
on my way home late one evening, gathering a quantity of champignons
for supper; and as it was dark, I imagine I must have gathered both
species. I did not cook them myself, neither did I examine them after
they were taken from the basket; but I noticed at supper-time that they
were unusually hot, and I thought the old woman who cooked them had put
too much pepper into the stew. I never suspected the fungi.

In about half an hour after partaking of them my head began to ache, my
brain to swim, and my throat and stomach to burn, as if in contact with
fire. After being ill for some hours, a terrible fit of purging and
vomiting set in, which appeared soon to set me to rights; for after a
day or so I was no worse for it.

=Fetid Wood-Witch.= Fig. 31.

(_Phallus impudicus._) 914.

This is a great ornament to our woods, but its truly horrible effluvia
beggars description; the nasal organs detect its presence at a long
distance, and when neared the loathsome odour is indescribably
revolting. Flies, however, appear to highly relish it; for these
_Phalli_ are invariably covered with flies, who greedily devour the
odorous and liquid repast found at the top of the stem. It is most
abundant at woody places in the north of London, all through the summer
till the late autumn.

Had not this species really been eaten, with several other singular,
offensive, and dangerous fungi figured on this sheet, it would have
been hardly necessary to figure or refer to it at all.

THE END.

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