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Title: Gimp Braiding Projects
Author: Jr., White, Charles E.
Language: English
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Copyright Status: Not copyrighted in the United States. If you live elsewhere check the laws of your country before downloading this ebook. See comments about copyright issues at end of book.

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                         GIMP BRAIDING PROJECTS


                 LANYARDS • LEASHES • BELTS • BRACELETS


                            Copyright, 1940
                                   by
                          FELLOWCRAFTERS, INC.
                         Boston, Massachusetts
                PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA



                         GIMP BRAIDING PROJECTS
           _Written and Illustrated by Charles E. White, Jr._


For the convenience of craftsmen, we have assembled in this booklet the
directions for many of the popular gimp projects, with suggestions for a
multitude of patterns which can be made with any desired color
combination. These directions have been completely illustrated in color,
so that every step can readily be understood, since the true simplicity
of braiding has often been obscured by complicated instructions and
illustrations.

The material itself is a special coated tape made in various colors and
shapes. Standard gimp and Titan lacing are flat and 3/32″ wide. The
special ¼″ wide gimp also is flat. Round or cord gimp is available in
either 3/64″ or 5/64″ diameters. These various types of gimp can be
purchased by the yard, though they are much less expensive when secured
by the spool. Leather lacings may be used in place of gimp where
particular effects are desired.


                           General Directions

Standard and wide gimps have a seam on one face. Always start braiding
with this seam next to the core and be careful at the edge of the braid
to fold each strand so that the seam remains inside or on the back of
the work. Titan lacing is seamless, and therefore can be used with
either surface on the outside of the braid. A well-made article,
however, should have no twisted strands, whether made of standard gimp,
or of seamless Titan lacing.

In all work with gimp it is essential to keep all the strands pulled
tight, and to adjust every row of stitches, in order to ensure that the
braid will be uniform.

Long working strands may be tied in coils to keep them from snarling. If
it is necessary to splice a strand, slice away half the thickness of the
gimp on both of the ends to be joined. Overlap the two ends and lead
them through several stitches, then trim off the extra material.
(Fig. 1.) If it is necessary to set the braid aside before it is
finished, use ordinary paper clips or knot the strands to keep them in
place.


                          Steel Bracelet Cores

The type of core most widely used for bracelet making is formed from a
strip of spring steel either ½″ or ¼″ wide. Make a narrow V-shaped slit
half the width of the band at about ½″ from one end. (Fig. 2A.) Mark off
beyond this cut the circumference of your bracelet (usually 8-9 inches)
and make another slit half way through from the opposite side. Clip off
the metal about ½″ beyond this second slit. Connect the band as shown,
with the ends on the inside of the bracelet. (Figs. 3 and 4.) Set the
band on a solid surface and pound with a mallet or hammer until the
edges fit smoothly.

    [Illustration: Fig. 1]

    [Illustration: Fig. 2]

    [Illustration: Fig. 3]

    [Illustration: Fig. 4]

    [Illustration: Fellowcrafters GIMP BRAIDING PROJECTS]



                        _Basket-Weave Bracelets_


    [Illustration: {Bracelet}]

The recently developed basket-weave bracelets are among the easiest and
most popular projects for flat gimp. This is in part due to the fact
that they offer so many possibilities for originality of design. The
standard gimp types, for instance, may be made with from one to seven
colors, so it is possible to match them with any color schemes of belts
or leashes, or to make them harmonize with any costume.


                    Wide Gimp Basket-Weave Bracelet

  Materials required:
    3 strands of wide gimp, 12″ each
    1 strand of wide gimp, 60″
    ¾″ steel bracelet core

Fasten the ends of the short strands to the band with a paper clip in
the position shown in figure 5. Leaving one half inch or so free at the
start, weave the long strand under one—over one—under one. (Fig. 6.)
Bring it around through the band and weave the next row of stitches over
one—under on—over one. (Fig. 7.) Pull the strands tight.

    [Illustration: Fig. 5]

    [Illustration: Fig. 6]

    [Illustration: Fig. 7]

Continue alternating these two steps all the way around the band. If the
pattern does not come out even, rip out the last few stitches and weave
them again closer together to gain space for the extra stitch. Then
remove the paper clip and weave each short strand back loosely through
the first two stitches at the beginning. (Fig. 8.) Cut off the beginning
end of the weaving strand at the edge of the bracelet. (Fig. 9.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 8]

    [Illustration: Fig. 9]

Finish off by braiding along the start of the weaving strand (Fig. 10),
around the outside of the band. This makes the last weaving row under
one—over one—under one. Pull all the ends tight and clip them off close
to the braid.

    [Illustration: Fig. 10]

The pattern shown above is made with three colors according to the
direction illustrations. Checkerboard patterns are made by using one
color on the band and a second color for weaving. Four more two-color
patterns are made by placing the lighter color at the center of the band
or at the edge, and by using a dark or a light weaving strand.
Three-color patterns have six additional possibilities for variation on
the same principle.

    [Illustration: {Additional patterns}]

    [Illustration: {Additional patterns}]


                  Standard Gimp Basket-Weave Bracelet

  Materials required:
    5 strands of narrow gimp, 12″ each
    1 strand of narrow gimp, 3¼ yds.
    ¾″ steel bracelet core

Fasten the five short strands to the band as shown in figure 12. Then
weave across the band in any of the ways shown below, bringing the
strand through the center after each row. (Fig. 13.) Several two-color
combinations of these stitches are suggested here, but do not let these
limit your originality, as there are very many possible patterns. Finish
off the bracelet as described on page 2.

    [Illustration: Fig. 12]

    [Illustration: Fig. 13]


                    Wood Core Basket-Weave Bracelet

  Materials required:
    5 strands of standard gimp, 12″ each
    1 strand of standard gimp, 5 yds.
    1 standard wood core

Made in exactly the same way as the preceding. The beginning strands may
be tied in place or fastened with adhesive tape.


                          Additional Projects

The directions already given apply equally well to all of the following
projects. Six-strand standard gimp bracelets are made like five-strand
bracelets with an additional 12″ strand on the core. Wood core napkin
rings like that shown above require three, four, or five 8″ core strands
and a 3 yd. weaving strand. Napkin rings made on shortened ¼″ bands (6″
between the notches) require either five or six 8″ standard gimp core
strands and a 2¼ yd. weaving strand. Narrow band bracelets of the type
shown at the top of the page can be made of standard gimp with three or
four 12″ core strands and a 2¼ yd. weaving strand. Narrow band napkin
rings require three or four 8″ core strands and a 1¾ yd. weaving strand.

    [Illustration: {Two-color combinations}]



                         _Leashes and Lanyards_


    [Illustration: {Leash}]


                           Standard Dog Leash

  Materials required:
    4 strands of standard gimp, 3½ yds. each
    1 strand of core material, 1 yd. 30″
    1 standard or French leash snap
    soft wire for binding, 5″

The stout core necessary for a dog leash may be made of standard core
braid or of extra heavy twine. Fold one end back to make a loop 7″ long.
Bind the end with wire. Put the other end through the eye of the snap,
then bend it back and bind it with wire to make a loop 1½″ long. (Fig.
14.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 14]

Tie the center of the strands to the center of the core with one end of
a piece of cord. Tie the other end of the cord to any firm object so
that you can keep the leash pulled tight while you are braiding. Arrange
the strands as in figure 15.

    [Illustration: Fig. 15]

Braid toward one end as follows: Bring the upper right strand around the
back, forward between the left strands, and across the core to lie
parallel to the other right strand. In successive steps, merely take the
uppermost strand—left or right as the case may be—around the back,
between the strands of the opposite side, and across the front. Keep the
stitches pushed tightly together to achieve a uniform result. (Figs. 16
and 17.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 16]

    [Illustration: Fig. 17]

Continue around the loop until you come back to the main braid. Then
make a square as follows: Holding the braid as in figure 18, cross the
two rear strands. (Fig. 19.) Bring the rear right strand down over the
forward right strand. (Fig. 20.) Loop the latter over the first strand
and bring it down between the other two strands. (Fig. 21.) Loop the
third strand similarly over all the strands and bring it down in back.
(Fig. 22.) Bring the fourth strand over the third and through the loop
of the first. (Fig. 23.) Pull the strands tight (Fig. 24) so that the
top appears as a square.

    [Illustration: Fig. 18]

    [Illustration: Fig. 19]

    [Illustration: Fig. 20]

    [Illustration: Fig. 21]

    [Illustration: Fig. 22]

    [Illustration: Fig. 23]

    [Illustration: Fig. 24]

Then make a square braid. Fold one strand back on itself. (Fig. 25.)
Fold the next strand (Fig. 26) back on itself over the first one. Fold
the third strand over the second. (Fig. 27.) Fold the last strand over
the third and through the loop of the first. (Fig. 28.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 25]

    [Illustration: Fig. 26]

    [Illustration: Fig. 27]

    [Illustration: Fig. 28]

Complete the stitch by drawing all the strands tight. Continue making
squares in this way until the strands are only about 2½″ long. The
spiral braiding described on page 6 may be used in place of this square
braiding or in combination with it.

End the braid with a lock knot by looping each strand under the loose
end of the overlying strand and through the top stitch as shown in
figures 29-32. Pull the ends tight, making certain as you do so that
none of the strands appear twisted. Then clip off the ends of the
strands. (Fig. 33.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 29]

    [Illustration: Fig. 30]

    [Illustration: Fig. 31]

    [Illustration: Fig. 32]

    [Illustration: Fig. 33]

Follow the same steps in making the other half of the leash.


                          Suggested Variations

Spiral braiding may be substituted after the first square. This is made
in exactly the same way as square braiding except that each strand is
bent over the top of the braid on the opposite side of the core, rather
than back along itself. (Figs. 34-38.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 34]

    [Illustration: Fig. 35]

    [Illustration: Fig. 36]

    [Illustration: Fig. 37]

    [Illustration: Fig. 38]

After completing the loops at the ends, many craftsmen prefer to make
several more ordinary stitches before starting the squares.


                            Six-Strand Leash

  Materials required:
    6 strands of standard gimp. 3½ yds. each
    1 strand of core braid, 1 yd. 30″
    1 standard or French snap

Six-strand round braiding can also be used for leashes. It is made in
much the same way, except that the top strand is brought around the
back, then forward below the first strand, over the second strand, and
under the third strand. (Fig. 39.) When in doubt about the order of the
strands, remember to weave the top strand so that it passes over the
_front_ strand on the opposite side. You can see this clearly in figure
39.

    [Illustration: Fig. 39]

When making the square braiding, lay an opposite pair of strands along
the core and weave the remaining four as described above. The strands on
the core may be clipped with the others after making the lock knot.

    [Illustration: {Leash}]


                            Standard Lanyard

    [Illustration: {Lanyard}]

  Materials required:
    2 strands of standard gimp, 3½ yds. each
    1 snap

Lanyards are made in much the same way as leashes, but without the core.
The snap is fastened securely so that the work can be pulled against it.
Then both strands are run half way through the ring to give four equal
braiding strands. Cross the strands on the ring in exactly the way shown
in figure 40. This arrangement corresponds to the starting position of
the leash. The braiding is done in the same way as that described for
the leash, beginning with the upper right strand. (Fig. 16.)

When only one foot of lacing is left, form the loop of the lanyard by
folding the braid back as in figure 41. Cross the two lower strands
behind the main braid (Fig. 42), and finish with the square or spiral
braid and the lock knot as described for the leash. If you wish the
square braid to slip along the lanyard, braid it loosely.

The alternative pattern shown is made by arranging the strands at the
start as in figure 43.

    [Illustration: Fig. 40]

    [Illustration: Fig. 41]

    [Illustration: Fig. 42]

    [Illustration: Fig. 43]


                           Six-Strand Lanyard

  Materials required:
    3 strands of small round gimp, 3½ yds. each
    1 snap

This is made in the same way as the six-strand leash by starting as
follows: The rear left strand is brought around its forward part and
bent to the right. (Fig. 44.) Both parts of the middle strand are
brought to the right. (Fig. 45.) The forward part of the right strand is
woven to the left over one—under one—over one, and the rear part of the
same strand is woven over two—under one. Start braiding with the upper
right strand.

    [Illustration: Fig. 44]

    [Illustration: Fig. 45]


                  Other Types of Leashes and Lanyards

Unusual and very attractive results can be obtained by utilizing round
gimp in making these projects. Leashes and lanyards, for instance, of
either the six- or four-strand type are very smart when made with small
round gimp. The larger cord gimp is suitable for four- or six-strand
leashes and for four-strand lanyards. Some of these possibilities are
illustrated on this page. The amount of material required is the same as
for the standard gimp projects and the method of working is identical.
It is advisable, however, to use picture wire as a core for the leashes.
When making articles of large round gimp, it will also be found more
satisfactory to use spiral braiding in place of the square braiding.

Heavy leashes for large dogs can be made of wide gimp braided over a
stout rope core.



                          _Braided Bracelets_


    [Illustration: {Bracelets}]

These illustrated bracelets need no introduction, since they are
standard as braiding projects. They are ordinarily made with from one to
four colors, but can be made with as many as eight colors, so there is a
wide range of possibilities for bright patterns. The braid itself is an
eight strand variation of the braiding used for leashes and lanyards.


                      Standard Flat-Weave Bracelet

  Materials required:
    4 strands of standard gimp, 2¼ yds. each
    1 steel band, ¾″ wide

Hold the center of all four strands against the inside of the band about
½″ beyond the joint. (Fig. 46.) If standard gimp is used, be sure to
have the seams next to the metal. Fold the strands on the left
diagonally down across the band, holding them with the thumb and
forefinger of the left hand. (Fig. 47.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 46]

    [Illustration: Fig. 47]

Weave the top right strand across the band under the first, over the
second, under the third, and over the fourth strands. (Fig. 48.) Weave
the next strand over the first, under the second, over the third, and
under the fourth strands. (Fig. 49.) Weave the third strand under
one—over one—under one—over one, and weave the last strand under
two—over one—under one. Make certain that none of the strands are
twisted, then tighten the braid on the band until the gimp lies flat
without bulging. (Fig. 50.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 48]

    [Illustration: Fig. 49]

    [Illustration: Fig. 50]

Pass the top right strand through the bracelet. Bring it forward between
the two middle strands at the left. Then fold it back across the band
over the third strand and under the fourth. (Fig. 51.) Pull it tight.
Next do the same with the upper left strand (Fig. 52), and continue
alternately weaving the top left and right strands in this way. The last
strand woven shows as the lowest on the inside, so you can always tell
which strand to weave next.

    [Illustration: Fig. 51]

    [Illustration: Fig. 52]

If the pattern does not come out even when you have woven the entire
distance around the bracelet, ease the braid back around the band to
gain whatever additional space you need in order to complete the design.

Clip the ends of the strands to make them pointed. Then weave the lower
right strand under the beginning strand on the same side. (Fig. 53.)
Weave the lower left strand over the first and under the second
beginning strands on the left. (Fig. 54.) Then weave the free strand on
the left over one—under one, thus completing the face of the braid with
all the strands woven to the edge. (Fig. 55.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 53]

    [Illustration: Fig. 54]

    [Illustration: Fig. 55]

To finish off, work inside the bracelet. Weave the upper left strand
under the first two slanting strands on the right. (Fig. 56.) Weave the
upper right strand under the two opposite strands. (Fig. 57.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 56]

    [Illustration: Fig. 57]

Weave the rest of the strands in the same way (Fig. 58), then draw the
work tight and trim off the ends.

Many additional patterns can be made by varying the position of the
strands at the start. The strands may simply be crossed on the inside
(Fig. 59), to make one series of patterns. They may be looped to bring
both ends of the same strand on the same side for another group of
patterns. Titan lacing may be looped flat as in figure 60, but standard
gimp should have the strands arranged as in figure 61 so that the seam
sides will be toward the band. Combinations of straight, crossed, and
looped strands offer further possibilities for patterns.

    [Illustration: Fig. 58]

    [Illustration: Fig. 59]

    [Illustration: Fig. 60]

Eight separate strands 4 ft. long may be started as shown in figure 62.
An ordinary paper clip is sufficient to hold the braid in place. Weaving
with eight strands extends the possibilities for unusual patterns, but
care must be exercised to keep the designs simple.

    [Illustration: Fig. 61]

    [Illustration: Fig. 62]


                     Wood-Core Flat-Weave Bracelet

  Materials required:
    4 strands of standard gimp, 2¾ yds. each
    1 standard wood core

The stunning bracelets of the type shown here are made in exactly the
same way as the standard bracelets.


                       Narrow Flat-Weave Bracelet

  Materials required:
    4 strands of standard gimp, 1½ yds. each
    1 steel band, ½″ wide

These, also, are made in the same way as the standard bracelets,
offering the same opportunities for patterns.


                    Six-Strand Flat-Weave Bracelets

The preceding bracelets can be made equally well with three long strands
instead of four. The only difference in the braiding is that the strand
which is carried around the back should be brought forward between the
first two strands and woven across the band over one—under one. (Fig. 63
.) The lengths of the strands required are as follows:

  Wide-band bracelet—3 strands, 2 yds. each
  Narrow-band bracelet—3 strands, 1½ yds. each
  Wood-core bracelet—3 strands, 2½ yds. each

    [Illustration: Fig. 63]


                              Napkin Rings

Any of the above can be made as napkin rings. If the core used is 6″ in
circumference (in metal bands, 6″ between the notches), use
three-fourths as much material as is required for the corresponding
bracelet.

    [Illustration: {Rings}]



                         _Round Gimp Bracelets_


    [Illustration: {Bracelets}]

These bracelets are typical of the colorful possibilities of the new
round gimp. Both are made entirely of gimp without any special
accessories, and require very little time for the braiding.


                        Square-Knotted Bracelet

  Materials required:
    2 strands of small cord gimp, 1¾ yds. each
    1 strand of wide gimp, 18″

Make a double coil of wide gimp of whatever diameter is desired. Cut
both ends on the same slant, so that there will always be only two
thicknesses of material in the finished core. (Fig. 64.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 64]

Tie the two strands of cord gimp together at one end, leaving about 1″
beyond the knot to use later for finishing. Place the knot at the left
side of the core. Select the color which is to show on the band and lead
it across the outside of the core. (Fig. 65.) Lead the other strand
through the core, cross it over the top strand (Fig. 66), lead it back
under the core and up through the loop at the left side. (Fig. 67.) This
process makes half a square knot.

    [Illustration: Fig. 65]

    [Illustration: Fig. 66]

    [Illustration: Fig. 67]

In all succeeding knots, merely choose the color which is to show on the
band and lead it across in front. (Fig. 68.) Then loop the other strand
over it, around the back, and forward through the loop on the opposite
side. (Fig. 69.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 68]

    [Illustration: Fig. 69]

When you have gone completely around the bracelet, untie the starting
knot and tuck in the loose ends.

All the patterns shown above are made in exactly this way. The core may
either be of the same color as one of the working strands, or of a third
color to add little decorative touches between the stitches.


                            Spiral Bracelet

  Materials required:
    2 strands of heavy round gimp, 2½ yds. each
    1 strand of heavy round gimp, 10″

Cross the strands at their midpoints. (Fig. 70.) Bring the right under
strand around over the next two strands and down behind. (Fig. 71.) Do
the same with the second strand. (Fig. 72.) Bring the third strand
around and down through the loop of the first. (Fig. 73.) Bring the last
strand around and down through both the first and second loops.
(Fig. 74.) Insert the core through the middle so that about 1″ is beyond
the knot. Then pull all the strands tight. (Fig. 75.)

    [Illustration: Fig. 70]

    [Illustration: Fig. 71]

    [Illustration: Fig. 72]

    [Illustration: Fig. 73]

    [Illustration: Fig. 74]

    [Illustration: Fig. 75]

Continue braiding for about 8″ in this same way. Then fit the braid
around your wrist to find the bracelet size needed. Cut the long end of
the core so that it just touches the beginning of the braid. (Fig. 76.)
Overlap the two ends of the core, and complete the braid over the
doubled strand. Tuck the loose ends through the beginning stitches and
trim them off close to the braid.

    [Illustration: Fig. 76]



                            _Braided Belts_


Belts to match bracelets and leashes or to harmonize with various
costumes are favorite gimp projects. They may be made from any type of
gimp. The popular twelve-strand braids can have as many as six colors,
if so desired.

The choice of the buckle is quite important. Standard buckles with
tongues are the most widely used. Special decorative effects can be
achieved with tongueless buckles. Other attractive results can be
produced by covering the buckle with gimp, using half hitches (Fig. 77)
or basket stitches as shown in figure 78.

    [Illustration: Fig. 77]

    [Illustration: Fig. 78]


                             12-Strand Belt

  Materials required:
    6 strands of standard gimp or Titan lacing, 3¼ yds. each
    3 strands of standard gimp or Titan lacing, 6″ each
    1 buckle for ¾″ or 1″ belt width

Fasten the buckle securely so that you can pull against it to keep the
braiding tight. Hang three strands of gimp on each side of the tongue,
so that you have twelve strands of equal length. Since the order of the
strands determines the pattern, arrange the strands on the buckle as
indicated for any of the patterns on page 11.

Bring the back part of the left strand forward and bend it across the
other section of the same strand right side up. (Fig. 79.) Bring the
lower part of the second strand forward and weave it over the front
portion and under the forward part of the left strand. (Fig. 80.) In the
same way bring each strand around to the front and weave it to the left
over one—under one—over one—etc. When the work appears as in figure 81,
check the strands to see that they are all right side up before
beginning to braid.

    [Illustration: Fig. 79]

    [Illustration: Fig. 80]

    [Illustration: Fig. 81]

Take the upper right strand and weave it across over one—under one—etc.
(Fig. 82.) Then weave the upper left strand under one—over one—under
one—etc. (Fig. 83) Bend the strands at the edge as in figure 84. If
Titan lacing is used, the strands may be folded at the edge instead as
in figure 85. Continue weaving the right and left strands in this way.

    [Illustration: Fig. 82]

    [Illustration: Fig. 83]

    [Illustration: Fig. 84]

    [Illustration: Fig. 85]

When you have woven the full length you need for the belt, make the last
row from left to right and fasten the strands with a paper clip as shown
in figure 86. Turn the belt around and weave each strand loosely back
along itself. (Figs. 87 and 88.) Pull the strands tight, then trim the
ends close to the braid.

    [Illustration: Fig. 86]

    [Illustration: Fig. 87]

    [Illustration: Fig. 88]

Make the loop of simple three strand braiding sewed at the ends and
sewed to the belt 1″ below the buckle.

Little need be said of the color patterns shown on page 11. At one end
of each we have indicated the positions of the strands on the buckle.


                      Other Types of Braided Belts

These same directions can be followed for belts with any number of
strands looped through a buckle. One of the most effective of these
variations can be made with wide gimp. This belt, as made ten strands
wide and a yard long calls for a 1¾″ buckle and five weaving strands, 3½
yds. each.

    [Illustration: {Additional belt patterns}]



                        _Materials and Supplies_


Although there are several qualities of gimp lacing on the market, only
the highest grade is fit for use in craft work. The gimp we carry is
made to order under our own strict specifications. It is waterproof, and
therefore washable. It has unusual tensile strength and will withstand
much abuse. The large amount we now sell makes it possible to offer this
improved gimp at lower prices.

    [Illustration: {Gimp braid}]

GL-1 STANDARD GIMP—3/32″ wide. Flat, seamless, lustrous, washable.
      Colors: gold, silver, white, red, orange, yellow, blue, tan,
      brown, black, and green.
                                  yd. $.02; 50 yds. $.85; 100 yds. $1.50
                                     500 or more yds. $1.35 per 100 yds.

GL-3 TITAN LACING—3/32″ wide. Colors: red, orange, yellow, green, blue,
      tan, brown, black, white, gold, and silver. Extra strong. Has
      half-oval cross-section.
                                  yd. $.02; 50 yds. $.85; 100 yds. $1.50

LL-1 GOAT LEATHER LACING—3/32″ wide. Colors: natural, red, green, blue,
      brown, and black.
                                 yd. $.06; 50 yds. $2.50; 100 yds. $4.75

LL-3 SPECIAL GOAT LACING—5/64″ wide—tan only.
                                 yd. $.04; 50 yds. $1.75; 100 yds. $3.00

GL-4 WIDE GIMP—¼″ wide. Colors: red, green, navy blue, brown, white, and
      black.
                                                yd. $.05; 100 yds. $3.75
                                 Gold or silver yd. $.10; 100 yds. $7.50

GL-5 ROUND GIMP No. 3—Colors: red, orange, yellow, green, light and
      medium blue, black, brown, white, gold, gray, and silver
                                  yd. $.02: 50 yds. $.85; 100 yds. $1.50

GL-6 EXTRA HEAVY ROUND GIMP No. 5—Colors: red, yellow, green, blue,
      brown, white, gray, and black
                                yd. $.035; 50 yds. $1.60; 100 yds. $3.00

CORE BRAID—for leashes
                                 yd. $.03; 50 yds. $1.35; 100 yds. $2.25

WIRE CORE—for leashes
                                                  yd. $.02; 50 yds. $.85

STEEL BRACELET BANDS—These steel bands are tempered to the proper
      hardness to have an excellent springiness.
                                             ½″ wide ea. $.04; doz. $.40
                                             ¾″ wide ea. $.05; doz. $.50

WOODEN BRACELET CORES—light blanks made of hard wood, attractively
      rounded on the outer surface.
                                                    ea. $.15; doz. $1.50

WOODEN NAPKIN RING CORES
                                                    ea. $.10; doz. $1.00

CENTRAL BAR NICKEL BUCKLES
                                                    ea. $.10; doz. $1.10

    [Illustration: {Buckles}]

STANDARD BELT BUCKLES—brass or nickel finish for belt widths of 1″ (the
      size recommended for the standard 12-strand belt). 1¼″, and 1½″
                                                     ea. $.07; doz. $.77

SMALL BUCKLES—assorted sizes and shapes
                                                     ea. $.05; doz. $.55

GT-16 FID
                                                                    $.35

LANYARD OR WATCH-GUARD SNAPS—bright brass nickel finish
                                                     ea. $.05; doz. $.50
                                                     ea. $.06; doz. $.60

DOG LEASH SNAPS—standard type with swivel
                                                     ea. $.06; doz. $.66

FRENCH DOG LEASH SNAPS
                                                    ea. $.15; doz. $1.65

DOG COLLAR BUCKLE AND “D”
                                                    ea. $.15; doz. $1.65



         HOW TO ORDER GIMP FOR PROJECTS DESCRIBED IN THIS BOOK


At the head of the instructions for each type of project will be found a
list of necessary materials. Many of these lists prescribe lengths of
gimp in fractions of yards.

In ordering, order to the _nearest full yard_, as we do not fill orders
for fractional yards of gimp.

Great savings are effected by purchasing gimp in 50 or 100 yard spools
and cutting for yourself the required lengths for gimp projects.


BRAIDING AND KNOTTING by C. A. Belash—This Beacon Handicraft Series text
      book is proving very popular. It gives explicit directions for all
      types of braiding and knotting with both gimp and cord, and it
      contains complete directions for making many attractive articles.
      Clothbound, with about 200 illustrations grouped on more than 50
      plates
                                                                   $1.00

SQUARE KNOTTING by P. C. Herwig—These illustrated booklets contain full
      instructions and suggestions for popular projects
                                     No. 1 $.15; No. 2 $.25; No. 3 $1.00

  Shipping charges are to be paid by the buyer. All prices subject to
                         change without notice.

  Materials and suggestions for other crafts are contained in our sixth
  catalogue. This catalogue will be sent to you on receipt of 25c
  (rebatable).



                         _Crafts for all ages_


 LEATHERCRAFT • GLOVE MAKING • BIRCHCRAFT • PERMATEX • GIMP BRAIDING •
KNOTTING • FIBRE CRAFT • WEAVING • BEADCRAFT • AMBEROLCRAFT • METALCRAFT
• METAL EMBOSSING • METAL SCROLLWORK • METAL ETCHING • BLOCK PRINTING •
  PLYWOOD CARVING • CHIP CARVING • WOOD CARVING • WOODWORKING • BANTAM
  WEIGHT BOATS • MODEL AIRPLANES • MODEL YACHTS • GLASS ETCHING • ART
                         VENEERCRAFT • POTTERY


   Send 25c (rebatable) for our catalogue of suggestions, materials,
     supplies, and tools for craft groups and individual craftsmen.


                            _Fellowcrafters_
                              Incorporated


     _General Office_    _Mail Order Department_    _Retail Store_
                   64 STANHOPE STREET, BOSTON, MASS.



                          Transcriber’s Notes


—Modified references to pages and illustrations, so as to be meaningful
  in an eBook.

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
  is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
  _underscores_.





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