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Title: With Lawrence in Arabia
Author: Thomas, Lowell
Language: English
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Copyright Status: Not copyrighted in the United States. If you live elsewhere check the laws of your country before downloading this ebook. See comments about copyright issues at end of book.

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  WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA



  COLONEL T. E. LAWRENCE, THE MYSTERY MAN OF ARABIA



  WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA

  BY

  LOWELL THOMAS


  ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY H. A. CHASE,
  F. R. G. S., AND BY THE AUTHOR



  THE CENTURY CO.

  _New York & London_



  Copyright, 1924, by
  The Century Co.


  printed in u.s.a.


  To Eighteen Gentlemen of Chicago
  this narrative of the adventures
  of a modern Arabian knight
  is gratefully dedicated



  FOREWORD


Surely no one ever offered a volume to the public who was quite so
deeply indebted to others, and I have long looked forward to the
opportunity of expressing my gratitude. To do this I must turn back
the pages of time to the days when, accompanied by my photographic
colleague, Mr. Harry A. Chase, and two other assistants, I left
America to gather information and secure a pictorial record of the
various phases of the struggle that was then in progress all the
way from the North Sea to far-off Arabia.

We had set forth early in 1917 and were expected to return at the
end of a year or so to help in the work of stimulating enthusiasm
for the Allied cause. The late Mr. Franklin K. Lane, secretary of
the interior, suggested that I resign from the faculty of Princeton
University in order to undertake this. To Secretary Lane, Secretary
Daniels of the Navy Department, and Secretary Baker of the War
Department, who were responsible for our becoming attached
successively to the various Allied armies, I am indebted for the
opportunities which enabled me to obtain the material for this
volume. This was before a special appropriation had been set aside
for such work; as a result of Secretary Lane’s suggestion, eighteen
distinguished private citizens supplied the funds for the
undertaking.

Mr. Chase and I have just concluded a three-year tour of the world,
during which I have shown the pictorial record and narrated to
several million people the story which we brought back of Allenby’s
conquest of the Holy Land, and the hitherto unknown story of
Lawrence and the war in the Land of the Arabian Nights. The generous
praise and innumerable courtesies which have been extended to us
during this tour have been received by us on behalf of these
eighteen nameless gentlemen. For it is to them that the credit is
due. In Europe, Americans are commonly regarded as mere worshipers
of Mammon; yet these financiers are typical American business men,
and if this book proves to be a contribution of value because it
happens to be the only written fragmentary record of the most
romantic campaign in modern history, then the credit belongs to
these unselfish, anonymous gentlemen of Chicago. For had it not
been for them, the story of Colonel Lawrence’s achievements in
Arabia might never have been told, and might never have become
widely known even among his own countrymen.

To Colonel John Buchan, who in those days was one of the mysterious
high priests of the Ministry of Information, I am indebted for the
permit that got me out to Palestine at the time when other missions
were not allowed there, and at the time when Allenby, Britain’s
modern Cœur de Lion, was leading his army in the most brilliant
cavalry campaign of all time. I also am deeply indebted to the
great commander-in-chief himself, and likewise to the chief of his
intelligence staff, Brigadier-General Sir Gilbert F. Clayton. It
was they who were responsible for our being the only observers
attached to the Shereefian forces in Holy Arabia.

During the time that Mr. Chase and I were in Arabia, I found it
impossible to extract much information from Lawrence himself
regarding his own achievements. He insisted on giving the entire
credit to Emir Feisal and other Arab leaders, and to his
fellow-adventurers, Colonel Wilson, of the Sudan, Newcombe, Joyce,
Dawney, Bassett, Vickery, Cornwallis, Hogarth, Stirling, etc., all
of whom did magnificent work in Arabia. So to them I went for much
of my material, and I am indebted to various members of this group
of brilliant men whom General Clayton used in his Near Eastern
Secret Corps. Eager to tell me of the achievements of their quiet,
scholarly companion, they refused to say much about themselves,
although their own deeds rivaled those of the heroes of “The
Arabian Nights.”

To the Right Hon. Lord Riddell, and to Mr. Louis D. Froelick,
editor of “Asia,” I am grateful for the encouragement which led me
to believe that I should attempt the delightful task of recording
what little I know of this romance of real life. I owe a special
debt to Miss Elsie Weil, former managing editor of “Asia”; also to
Captain Alan Bott, M.C., R.A.F. (Contact); to my colleague, Mr.
Dale Carnagey, the American novelist; and to my wife—for it was
their invaluable coöperation that finally enabled me to prepare
this volume.

There are others infinitely better qualified than I to give the
world a full account of the Arabian Revolution. For instance,
Commander D. G. Hogarth, the famous Arabian authority who played
a prominent advisory part, could easily do this. It is to be hoped
that his archæological work and duties as curator of the Ashmolean
Museum at Oxford will not prevent him from preparing a final
official history. But it is to Lawrence himself that we must look
for the inside story of the war in the Land of the Arabian Nights.

Unhappily, no matter how much unselfish work a man does for his
country, and no matter how modest he is, there are always people
hovering about on the side-lines ready to tear his record to
pieces. For instance, there are those who say that Lawrence has
received altogether too much “publicity” through me. They piously
declare that this is not in accordance with military ethics. There
may be something in this, though I doubt it. But if there is, the
blame should _all_ be mine.

There is no question that the praise I have given him has
embarrassed him exceedingly. Indeed, had he realized when I was in
Arabia that I one day would be going up and down the world shouting
his praises, I haven’t the slightest doubt that he would have
planted one of his nitroglycerine tulips under me, instead of under
a Turkish train! However, not only did Lawrence little dream that
I might one day be “booming him,” as he describes it, but it had
never even occurred to me that I should be so doing. The conspirators
who were largely responsible for my coming to England were Sir
William Jury, formerly of the Ministry of Information, and Major
Evelyn Wrench, of the English Speaking Union, and, more particularly,
Mr. Percy Burton, the London impresario formerly associated with
Sir Henry Irving, and Sir Johnston Forbes-Robertson. It was Mr.
Burton who came to me in New York and inveigled me into agreeing
to appear for a season at Covent Garden Royal Opera-House, London,
with my production, “With Allenby in Palestine and Lawrence in
Arabia.”

Another “bazaar rumor” that has been going the rounds is to the
effect that Colonel Lawrence has renounced Christianity and turned
Mohammedan. This also is the offspring of some feverish imagination!
From what I saw of Lawrence I rather believe that he is a better
Christian than the most of us. In his introduction to a new edition
of Doughty’s classic “Arabia Deserta” he says of that great Arabian
traveler: “He was book-learned, but simple in the arts of living,
trustful of every man, very silent. He was the first Englishman
they had met. He predisposed them to give a chance to other men of
his race, because they found him honourable and good. So he broke
a road for his religion. They say that he seemed proud only of
being Christian, and yet never crossed their faith.” The tribute
he pays to Doughty might be applied equally appropriately to
himself.

  L. T.



  CONTENTS


  CHAPTER


  I  A Modern Arabian Knight

  II  In Search of a Lost Civilization

  III  The Archaeologist Turned Soldier

  IV  The Cult of the Blood of Mohammed

  V  The Fall of Jeddah and Mecca

  VI  The Gathering of the Desert Tribes

  VII  The Battle at the Wells of Abu El Lissal

  VIII  The Capture of King Solomon’s Ancient Seaport

  IX  Across the Red Sea to Join Lawrence and Feisal

  X  The Battle of Seil El Hasa

  XI  Lawrence the Train-Wrecker

  XII  Drinkers of the Milk of War

  XIII  Auda Abu Tayi, the Bedouin Robin Hood

  XIV  Knights of the Black Tents

  XV  My Lord the Camel

  XVI  Abdullah the Pock-Marked, and the Story of Ferraj and Daoud

  XVII  An Eye for an Eye and a Tooth for a Tooth

  XVIII  A Rose-Red City Half as Old as Time

  XIX  A Bedouin Battle in a City of Ghosts

  XX  The Relative in My House

  XXI  Through the Turkish Lines in Disguise

  XXII  The Greatest Hoax Since the Trojan Horse

  XXIII  A Cavalry Naval Engagement and Lawrence’s Last Great Raid

  XXIV  The Downfall of the Ottoman Empire

  XXV  Lawrence Rules in Damascus, and the Treachery of the Algerian Emir

  XXVI  Tales of the Secret Corps

  XXVII  Joyce & Co., and the Arabian Knights of the Air

  XXVIII  Feisal and Lawrence at the Battle of Paris

  XXIX  Lawrence Narrowly Escapes Death; Adventures of Feisal and Hussein

  XXX  Lawrence Flees from London, and Feisal becomes King in Bagdad

  XXXI  The Secret of Lawrence’s Success

  XXXII  The Art of Handling Arabs

  XXXIII  Lawrence the Man



  LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


                                                  FACING PAGE

  Colonel T. E. Lawrence, the Mystery Man of Arabia.

  _Frontispiece_

  The “Uncrowned King” of the Arabs on the Governor’s balcony in Jerusalem

  General Ronald Storrs, Governor of the Holy City, and
  modern successor to Pontius Pilate

  Date-palms along the coral shore of Araby

  Lawrence at headquarters in Cairo

  The archaeologist and poet who turned soldier

  Map of the region covered by this narrative

  A Muezzin calling the faithful to prayer

  Hussein I

  Emir Feisal, now King of Mesopotamia (Irak)

  In his white robes Lawrence looked like a prophet

  The dreamer whose dreams came true

  A Sheik of Araby

  Shore-line at the head of the Gulf of Akaba

  Sunset over the fort at Akaba

  Sand storm rolling down on Khartoum

  The last resting-place of the mother of us all

  The Waldorf-Astoria of Arabia

  The mosque of the Holy Kaaba

  Colonel Lawrence and the author

  Panorama of Akaba

  Colonel Joyce

  Lawrence’s mountain guns in action

  Lawrence confers with Arab Nationalist leaders from Bagdad and Damascus

  The author, with Lawrence in Arabia

  Sheik Auda Abu Tayi, the Bedouin Robin Hood

  A Bedouin encampment

  Colonel Lawrence conferring with Commander D. G.
  Hogarth, one of his advisers at the Arab Bureau in
  Cairo

  Colonel Joyce, Commander of the Arab “regulars”

  Armored cars in Holy Arabia

  A racing dromedary from India

  A baby dromedary two hours old

  An Arab thoroughbred

  “Sidi” Lawrence and his “sons”

  “Drinkers of the milk of war”

  Feisal and Lawrence conferring with Bedouin sheiks

  Sunset over the mountain of Edom

  Our caravan approaching the “Lost City”

  The narrow defile that leads to the “Lost City”

  A rose-red temple carved like a cameo from the face of the
  mountain

  We rode into the auditorium on our camels

  “Pharaoh’s Treasury” or the “Temple of Isis”

  Looking out through the doorway of the temple, in the distance
  we see the narrow defile through which we came
  in entering the “Lost City”

  An amphitheater hewn out of the mountain

  The rock seemed to swirl like watered silk

  The “Three-storied Temple”

  Emir Feisal, center, with General Nuri to the left and
  Colonel Lawrence to the right; Captain Pisani of the
  French Mission standing directly behind the Emir

  Field-Marshall Viscount Allenby of Jerusalem and King
  Feisal of Bagdad

  Malud Bey and his Arab cavalry

  “The Tomb of the Roman soldiers”

  The author sketched by James McBey, official artist for
  Allenby’s forces in the Holy Land

  An Arab Apollo

  A peasant woman of Syria

  Types of city head-dress for women

  Where the hosts of Israel are said to have terminated the
  passage of the Red Sea

  A brigand from Jebel Druz

  Lawrence would occasionally disguise himself as a gypsy
  woman of Syria

  “Shereef” Lawrence

  A camel caravan in the Wadi Arabia

  Bedouin “irregulars” ready for a raid on the Turks

  Mr. Chase opening fire with his cinema camera from the
  turret of an armored car

  General Jafaar Pasha from Bagdad

  Druses from the Hauran

  Tallal El-Hareidhin of Tafas

  A Syrian villager

  Col. T. E. Lawrence

  General Fakri Pasha, the Turkish Tiger who defended
  Medina

  The king-maker

  Sunset in the land of the Arabian Knights



  WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA



  WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA


  CHAPTER I


  A MODERN ARABIAN KNIGHT


One day not long after Allenby had captured Jerusalem, I happened
to be in front of a bazaar stall on Christian Street, remonstrating
with a fat old Turkish shopkeeper who was attempting to relieve me
of twenty piasters for a handful of dates. My attention was suddenly
drawn to a group of Arabs walking in the direction of the Damascus
Gate. The fact that they were Arabs was not what caused me to drop
my tirade against the high cost of dates, for Palestine, as all
men know, is inhabited by a far greater number of Arabs than Jews.
My curiosity was excited by a single Bedouin, who stood out in
sharp relief from all his companions. He was wearing an agal,
kuffieh, and aba such as are worn only by Near Eastern potentates.
In his belt was fastened the short curved sword of a prince of
Mecca, insignia worn by descendants of the Prophet.

Christian Street is one of the most picturesque and kaleidoscopic
thoroughfares in the Near East. Russian Jews, with their corkscrew
curls, Greek priests in tall black hats and flowing robes, fierce
desert nomads in goatskin coats reminiscent of the days of Abraham,
Turks in balloon-like trousers, Arab merchants lending a brilliant
note with their gay turbans and gowns—all rub elbows in that narrow
lane of bazaars, shops, and coffee-houses that leads to the Church
of the Holy Sepulcher. Jerusalem is not a melting-pot. It is an
uncompromising meeting-place of East and West. Here are accentuated,
as if sharply outlined in black and white by the desert sun, the
racial peculiarities of Christian, Jewish, and Mohammedan peoples.
A stranger must, indeed, have something extraordinary about him to
attract attention in the streets of the Holy City. But as this
young Bedouin passed by in his magnificent royal robes, the crowds
in front of the bazaars turned to look at him.

It was not merely his costume, nor yet the dignity with which he
carried his five feet three, marking him every inch a king or
perhaps a caliph in disguise who had stepped out of the pages of
“The Arabian Nights.” The striking fact was that this mysterious
prince of Mecca looked no more like a son of Ishmael than an
Abyssinian looks like one of Stefansson’s red-haired Eskimos.
Bedouins, although of the Caucasian race, have had their skins
scorched by the relentless desert sun until their complexions are
the color of lava. But this young man was as blond as a Scandinavian,
in whose veins flow viking blood and the cool traditions of fiords
and sagas. The nomadic sons of Ishmael all wear flowing beards, as
their ancestors did in the time of Esau. This youth, with the
curved gold sword, was clean-shaven. He walked rapidly with his
hands folded, his blue eyes oblivious to his surroundings, and he
seemed wrapped in some inner contemplation. My first thought as I
glanced at his face was that he might be one of the younger apostles
returned to life. His expression was serene, almost saintly, in
its selflessness and repose.

“Who is he?” I turned eagerly to the Turk profiteer, who could only
manipulate a little tourist English. He merely shrugged his
shoulders.

“Who could he be?” I was certain I could obtain some information
about him from General Storrs, governor of the Holy City, and so
I strolled over in the direction of his palace beyond the old wall,
near Solomon’s Quarries. General Ronald Storrs, British successor
to Pontius Pilate, had been Oriental secretary to the high
commissioner of Egypt before the fall of Jerusalem and for years
had kept in intimate touch with the peoples of Palestine. He spoke
Hebrew, Greek, Latin, and Arabic with the same fluency with which
he spoke English. I knew he could tell me something about the
mysterious blond Bedouin.

“Who is this blue-eyed, fair-haired fellow wandering about the
bazaars wearing the curved sword of a prince of——?”

The general did not even let me finish the question but quietly
opened the door of an adjoining room. There, seated at the same
table where von Falkenhayn had worked out his unsuccessful plan
for defeating Allenby, was the Bedouin prince, deeply absorbed in
a ponderous tome on archæology.

In introducing us the governor said, “I want you to meet Colonel
Lawrence, the Uncrowned King of Arabia.”

He shook hands shyly and with a certain air of aloofness, as if
his mind were on buried treasure and not on the affairs of this
immediate world of campaigns and warfare. And that was how I first
made the acquaintance of one of the most picturesque personalities
of modern times, a man who will be blazoned on the romantic pages
of history with Raleigh, Drake, Clive, and Gordon.

During the period of the World War, years crammed with epic events,
among others two remarkable figures appeared. The dashing adventures
and anecdotes of their careers will furnish golden themes to the
writers of the future, as the lives of Ulysses, King Arthur, and
Richard the Lion-Hearted did to the poets, troubadours, and
chroniclers of other days. One is a massive, towering, square-jawed
six-footer, that smashing British cavalry leader, Field-Marshal
Viscount Allenby, commander of the twentieth-century crusaders,
who gained world fame because of his exploits in driving the Turks
from the Holy Land and bringing to realization the dream of
centuries. The other is the undersized, beardless youth whom I
first saw absorbed in a technical treatise on the cuneiform
inscriptions discovered on the bricks of ancient Babylon, and whose
chief interests in life were poetry and archæology.

The spectacular achievements of Thomas Edward Lawrence, the young
Oxford graduate, were unknown to the public at the end of the World
War. Yet, quietly, without any theatrical head-lines or fanfare of
trumpets, he brought the disunited nomadic tribes of Holy and
Forbidden Arabia into a unified campaign against their Turkish
oppressors, a difficult and splendid stroke of policy, which
caliphs, statesmen, and sultans had been unable to accomplish in
centuries of effort! Lawrence placed himself at the head of the
Bedouin army of the shereef of Mecca, who was afterward proclaimed
king of the Hedjaz. He united the wandering tribes of the desert,
restored the sacred places of Islam to the descendants of the
Prophet, and drove the Turks from Arabia forever. Allenby liberated
Palestine, the Holy Land of the Jews and Christians. Lawrence freed
Arabia, the Holy Land of millions of Mohammedans.

I had heard of this mystery man many times during the months I was
in Palestine with Allenby. The first rumor about Lawrence reached
me when I was on the way from Italy to Egypt. An Australian naval
officer confided to me that an Englishman was supposed to be in
command of an army of wild Bedouins somewhere in the trackless
desert of the far-off land of Omar and Abu-Bekr. When I landed in
Egypt I heard fantastic tales of his exploits. His name was always
mentioned in hushed tones, because at that time the full facts
regarding the war in the Land of the Arabian Nights were being kept
secret.

Until the day I met him in the palace of the governor of Jerusalem
I was unable to picture him as a real person. He was to me merely
a new Oriental legend. Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, Bagdad—in fact,
all the cities of the Near East—are so full of color and romance
that the mere mention of them is sufficient to stimulate the
imagination of matter-of-fact Westerners, who are suddenly spirited
away on the magic carpet of memory to childhood scenes familiar
through the tales of “The Thousand and One Nights.” So I had come
to the conclusion that Lawrence was the product of Western
imagination over-heated by exuberant contact with the East. But
the myth turned out to be very much of a reality.

The five-foot-three Englishman standing before me wore a kuffieh
of white silk and gold embroidery held in place over his hair by
an agal, two black woolen cords wrapped with silver and gold
thread. His heavy black camel’s-hair robe or aba covered a
snow-white undergarment fastened at the waist by a wide gold-brocaded
belt in which he carried the curved sword of a prince of Mecca.
This youth had virtually become the ruler of the Holy Land of the
Mohammedans and commander-in-chief of many thousands of Bedouins
mounted on racing camels and fleet Arabian horses. He was the
terror of the Turks.

Through his discovery that archæology held a fascination for me,
we became better acquainted during the following days in Jerusalem
before he returned to his Arabian army. We spent many hours
together, although I did not suspect that it might possibly be my
good fortune to join him later in the desert. When we were in the
company of officers whom he had just met he usually sat in one
corner, listening intently to everything that was being said but
contributing little to the conversation. When we were alone he
would get up from his chair and squat on the floor in Bedouin
fashion. The first time he did this he blushed in his peculiar way
and excused himself, saying that he had been in the desert so long
that he found it uncomfortable sitting in a chair.

I made many unsuccessful attempts to induce him to tell me something
of his life and adventures in the desert, where few Europeans
except Sir Richard Burton and Charles Doughty ever dared venture
before him. But he always adroitly changed the subject to
archæology, comparative religion, Greek literature, or Near Eastern
politics. Even concerning his connection with the Arabian army he
would say nothing, except to give the credit for everything that
happened in the desert campaign to the Arab leaders, or to Newcombe,
Joyce, Cornwallis, Dawney, Marshall, Stirling, Hornby, and his
other British associates.

Surely Destiny never played a stranger prank than when it selected,
as the man to play the major rôle in the liberation of Arabia, this
Oxford graduate whose life-ambition was to dig in the ruins of
antiquity, and to uncover and study long-forgotten cities.



  CHAPTER II


  IN SEARCH OF A LOST CIVILIZATION


When we first met in Jerusalem, and later on in the solitude of
the desert, I was unable to draw Lawrence out about his early life.
So, after the termination of the war, on my way back to America,
I visited England in the hope of being able to learn something
concerning his career prior to 1914, which might throw a light on
the formative period when Destiny was preparing him for his
important rôle. The war had so scattered his family and early
associates that I found it difficult to obtain aught but the most
meager information about his boyhood.

County Galway, on the west coast of Ireland, was the original home
of the Lawrences. This may partly account for his unusual powers
of physical endurance, for the inhabitants of Galway are among the
hardiest of a hardy race. But in his veins there also flows Scotch,
Welsh, English, and Spanish blood. Among his celebrated ancestors
was Sir Robert Lawrence, who accompanied Richard the Lion-Hearted
to the Holy Land, seven hundred and thirty years ago, and
distinguished himself at the siege of Acre, just as the youthful
T. E. Lawrence accompanied Allenby to the Holy Land and distinguished
himself in its final deliverance. The brothers, Sir Henry and Sir
John Lawrence of Mutiny fame, pioneers of Britain’s empire in
India, were among his more recent predecessors.

His father, Thomas Lawrence, was at one time the owner of estates
in Ireland and a great sportsman. Losing most of his worldly
possessions during the Gladstone period, when the bottom fell out
of land values in Ireland, he brought his family across the Irish
Sea to Wales, and Thomas Edward Lawrence was born in Carnarvon
County, not far from the early home of Mr. Lloyd George, who is
to-day one of his warmest friends and admirers, and who once told
me that he, too, regards Lawrence as one of the most picturesque
figures of modern times.

Five years of his boyhood were spent on the Channel Isle of Jersey.
When he was ten years of age his family migrated to the north of
Scotland, remaining there for three years. They next moved to
France, where young Lawrence attended a Jesuit College, although
all the members of the family belong to the orthodox Church of
England. From the Continent they went to Oxford; and that center
of English culture, which has been their home ever since, has left
its indelible mark on Lawrence. There Ned, as his boyhood companions
called him, attended Oxford High School and studied under a tutor
preparatory to entering the university. One of his school chums
relates that although not a star athlete he had a daring spirit
and was filled with the love of adventure.

“Underneath Oxford,” this companion tells us, “runs a subterranean
stream bricked over, the Trill Mill Stream. Ned Lawrence and
another boy, carrying lights and often lying flat to scrape through
the narrow culverts, navigated the whole of that underground water
passage.

“Oxford is a great boating center. Every stream that joins the
Thames is explored as far up as any slender craft will float. But
the River Cherwell above Islip is said by the guide-books to be
‘nowhere navigable.’ To say that is to challenge boys like Ned
Lawrence to prove the statement untrue, and that is what he and a
companion did. They trained their canoe to Banbury and came right
down the part of the stream that was ‘nowhere navigable.’”

He was fond of climbing trees and scrambling over the roofs of
buildings where none dared to follow. “It was on such an occasion,”
one of his brothers informed me, “that he fell and broke a leg.”
His relatives attribute his smallness of stature to that accident.
He seems never to have grown since.

All his life he has been as irregular in his ways as the wild
tribesmen of the Arabian Desert. Although he completed the required
four years’ work for his bachelor’s degree in three years, he never
attended a single lecture at Oxford, so far as I have been able to
discover. He occasionally worked with tutors, but he spent most of
his time wandering about England on foot, or reading medieval
literature. In order to be alone he frequently slept by day and
then read all night. He was entirely opposed to any set system of
education. The aged professor who angrily admonished Samuel Johnson
when a student at Oxford, “Young man, ply your book diligently now,
and acquire a stock of knowledge,” would have been equally
displeased with young Lawrence. The idea of obtaining a university
education in order to take up a conventional occupation did not
please him at all. His unconscious credo from earliest youth, like
Robert Louis Stevenson’s, seems to have been that “pleasures are
more beneficial than duties, because, like the quality of mercy,
they are not strained, and they are twice blest.”

As a part of his early reading he made an exhaustive study of
military writers, from the wars of Sennacherib, Thotmes, and
Rameses down to Napoleon, Wellington, Stonewall Jackson, and von
Moltke. But this he did voluntarily and not as a part of any
required work. Among his favorite books was Marshal Foch’s
“Principes de Guerre”; but he remarked to me on one occasion in
Arabia that his study of Cæsar and Xenophon had been of more value
to him in his desert campaign, because in the irregular war which
he conducted against the Turks he found it necessary to adopt
tactics directly opposed to those advocated by the great French
strategist.

As the subject for his Oxford thesis Lawrence chose the military
architecture of the Crusades, and so absorbed did he become in this
work that he urged his parents to allow him to visit the Near East,
so that he might gain first-hand knowledge of the architectural
efforts of the early knights of Christendom. In this he was
encouraged by the distinguished Oxford scholar and authority on
Arabia, Dr. David George Hogarth, curator of the Ashmolean Museum,
a man who has had an important influence over his entire life down
to the present day, and who even came out to Egypt during the war
and acted as his intimate counselor during the Arabian campaign.
Lawrence’s mother was reluctant to have him leave home but, after
many weeks of pleading, gave her consent to his visiting Syria as
a Cook’s tourist and allowed him two hundred pounds for the trip.
His family was certain that he would return home after a few weeks,
satisfied to settle down for the rest of his days and ready to
forget the heat, the smells, and the inconveniences of life in the
Orient. But on reaching the Near East he scorned tourists’ comforts
and the beaten track. He entered Syria at Beyrouth and, shortly
after landing, adopted native costume and set out barefoot for the
interior. Instead of traveling as a tourist, he wandered off alone,
along the fringe of the Great Arabian Desert, and amused himself
studying the manners and customs of the mosaic of peoples who dwell
in the ancient corridor between Mesopotamia and the Nile Valley.
Two years later, when he finally returned to Oxford to hand in his
thesis and receive his degree, he still had one hundred pounds
left!

There were five boys in the Lawrence family, of which Thomas Edward
was the second youngest. The eldest, Major Montague Lawrence, was
a major in the R. A. M. C.; the second, William, a schoolmaster at
Delhi, in India; the third, Frank, who finished Oxford and wandered
off to the Near East with Thomas; and the youngest, Arnold, a star
track athlete at Oxford, who is also interested in archæology, and
for a time took his brother’s place in Mesopotamia. Both William
and Frank gave their lives to their country on the battle-fields
of France.

Since the war Major Montague Lawrence has taken up work as a
medical missionary in China far up on the Tibetan frontier; their
mother has also gone to this remote corner of Central Asia, while
her youngest son is roaming around the museums of the world on a
traveling fellowship from Oxford, studying the sculpture of the
period of the decadence of Grecian art.

Several years before the war an expedition from Oxford, headed by
Lawrence’s friend Hogarth, the great antiquarian and archæologist,
began excavating in the Euphrates Valley, hoping to uncover traces
of that little-known ancient race, the Hittites. Because of his
intimate knowledge of their language and his sympathetic
understanding of their customs, Lawrence was placed in charge of
the digging gangs of unruly Kurds, Turkomans, Armenians, and Arabs.
This expedition eventually succeeded in uncovering Carchemish, the
ancient capital of the Hittite Empire, and there, amid the ruins
of that long-forgotten city, Lawrence amused himself studying
inscriptions on pottery and joining up the various stages of
Hittite civilization. He and his associate, C. Leonard Woolley,
director of the expedition, actually uncovered ruins which proved
to be the missing link between the civilizations of Nineveh and
Babylon and the beginnings of Greek culture in the islands of the
Mediterranean, which extend back for five thousand years. The
Ashmolean Museum at Oxford contains many exhibits “presented by T.
E. Lawrence” before he was twenty years of age.

An American traveler and director of missions in the Near East
happened to visit the camp of these lonely excavators. He gives us
a vivid picture of his visit and an indication of how Lawrence
received the training which enabled him to gain such an amazing
hold over the desert tribes when the Great War overtook him.

“It was in 1913,” says Mr. Luther R. Fowle. “Easter vacation at
the American College in Aintab had given us the opportunity to make
the three days’ trip by wagon to Curfa, the ancient Edessa. After
Curfa, we had visited Haraun, a few miles to the south, whither
Abraham migrated from Ur of the Chaldees.

“Our return trip to Aintab was by the road farther to the south,
which brought us to the Euphrates River at Jerablus, over which
the Germans were building their great railway bridge, an essential
link in the Berlin-to-Bagdad dream. On the western bank, a few
hundred yards from the bridge, was the site of Carchemish, and
there we found the quiet British scholar, who, under the stress of
the war, was soon to turn from his digging among the ancient ruins
beside the Euphrates to become a shereef of Mecca and leader of a
vast Bedouin host in a successful war to throw off the Ottoman
yoke.

“Mr. Woolley, the archæologist in charge of the work of excavation
of Carchemish, had just come from the diggings, clad in his business
dress of gray flannel shirt and golf-trousers. Lawrence, his
youthful associate, also fresh from the works, was stepping lightly
across the mounds of earth clad in what we Americans would call a
running-suit and wearing at his belt the ornate Arab girdle with
its bunch of tassels at the front, the mark of an unmarried man.
But he was out of sight in a moment; and when we gathered for
supper the freshly tubbed young man in his Oxford tennis-suit of
white flannel bordered with red ribbon, but still wearing his Arab
girdle, launched into the fascinating story of the excavations; of
relations with the Kurds and Arabs about them; of his trips alone
among their villages in search of rare rugs and antiquities, that
gave opportunity for cultivating that close touch and sympathy with
them that subsequently was the basis of his great service in the
time of his country’s need. The meal was delicious and was served
by a powerful, swarthy Arab in elegant native dress, with enough
daggers and revolvers in his girdle to supply a museum. Soon he
entered with the coffee, delicious as only Turkish coffee rightly
made can be. And our British friends, who were hardly able to find
interest in the Roman nut-dishes merely a couple of thousand years
old and part of the rubbish to be cleared away before reaching the
Hittite ruins, pointed out with pride that our little brown
earthenware coffee-cups were unquestionably Hittite and probably
not far from four thousand years old.

“I should not say ‘buildings,’ or even ‘building,’ but rather
‘room’; for we learned that the British Government, because of an
understanding with the Turkish authorities, had given permission
to build only one room. Accordingly Woolley and Lawrence had built
a room of two parallel walls about ten feet apart, extending fifty
feet south, then thirty-five feet westward, and again fifty feet
north. Closed at both ends, this giant letter U was indeed a room;
and, although somewhat astonished, the Turkish Government had to
concede the fact. Of course, the honorable inspector could not
object if little partitions were run across to separate the sleeping
portions from the dining-room and office, and in due time
convenience demanded that doors be opened from various parts of
the structure into the court. Thus it was that, when we first saw
it, on the right was a series of rooms for the storage of
antiquities and for photographic work; on the left were the
sleeping-rooms of the excavators and their guests; and in the
center was the delightful living-room with open fireplaces, built-in
bookcases filled with well-worn leather-bound volumes of the
classics with which a British scholar would naturally surround
himself, and a long table covered with the current British papers
as well as the archæological journals of all the world.

“Around the fireplace we learned much of the good faith and
friendship that existed between these two lone Englishmen and the
native people around them. They insisted that they were safer on
the banks of the Euphrates than if they had been in Piccadilly.
The leaders of the two most feared bands of brigands in the region,
Kurdish and Arab, were faithful employees of the excavators, one
as night-watchman, the other in a similar position of trust. Of
course there was no stealing and no danger. Had not these men eaten
of the Englishman’s salt? Moreover, the even-handed justice of the
two Englishmen was so well known and respected that they had come
to be the judges of various issues of all sorts between rival
villages, or in personal disagreement. Never abusing their
prerogatives, their decisions were never questioned. Lawrence had
recently been out to a village to settle the difficulties arising
out of the kidnapping of a young woman by the man who wished to
marry her and who had been unable to overcome her father’s
objections. Could any training have been better for the part he
was to play in the great Arab awakening than these experiences
among the native people?

“In the living-room was an ancient wooden chest which may once have
held the dowry of a desert bride, but which now served as money-box
and safety-deposit vault. Larger than a wardrobe-trunk, there it
stood, unlocked and unguarded. It was full of the silver money with
which to pay the two hundred men working on the excavations. But
such was the unwritten law of the community, such the love of the
workers for their leaders, and so sure and summary the punishment
which they themselves would mete out to any of their number taking
advantage of this trust, that the cash could not have been safer
in the vaults of the Bank of England itself.

“All this contrasted sharply with the methods and experiences of
the German engineers half a mile away, building the Bagdad
railway-bridge across the Euphrates. They and their workers seemed
fated to mutual distrust and hatred. The Teuton could not see why
the Arab should not and would not accept his régime of discipline
and punishment. The Germans were always needing more laborers,
while the Englishmen, a few hundred yards away, were overwhelmed
with them. Once when the latter were forced to cut down their staff
they tried in vain to dismiss fifty men. The Arabs and Kurds just
smiled and went on with their work. They were told they would get
no pay, but they smiled and worked on. If not for pay, they would
work for the love of it and of their masters. And so they did. Nor
was the excavation without interest to those simple men. They had
caught the enthusiasms of their leaders, who had taught them to
share in the joy of the work; their digging was not meaningless
toil for foreign money, but was rather a sharing of the joy of
archæology.

“We retired for the night, our minds filled with the stories of
the East, in which Christian and pagan, Hittite, Greek, and Roman,
the great past and the sordid present of these regions were mingled
with the background of energetic German effort and the calm
achievement by two modest and capable representatives of the
British breed of men. We slept long and well on the familiar
folding cots in our clean, mud-walled room; nor were our slumbers
troubled by our bed-covers, Damascus _yorgans_ of cloth of gold,
upon which a rare arabesque on its background of dull red invited
the eye to journeys without end. These ancient covers were some of
Lawrence’s treasures, brought back from his frequent trips to the
Arab villages, when for weeks his whereabouts were unknown. It was
during these journeys that he in native garb joined in the
conversation of the village elders on the shady side of a tent, or
came to understand and admire the Arab in quiet intercourse before
an open fire, where, sitting cross-legged on the floor, when the
coffee had been made and silently drunk, one and another spoke.
While forty German engineers were building their bridge, which was
to enable them to coerce these people in case they would not obey,
one broad-minded kindly Englishman was unconsciously preparing to
become the man who in the great crisis was to lead this people,
not only to destroy the Teuton dream of conquest, but to break the
centuries-old political servitude of the Turk.

“After breakfast we were examining the mosaic floor of the
dining-room, a Roman fragment that these men had taken out whole
rather than destroy it in their search for the Hittite antiquities
hidden below. But just then word came of excitement at the ‘works.’
We hurried over to find the Arabs and Kurds closely packed around
a large excavation. The Greek foreman was removing the age-old
earth about a dark stone several feet square; and by the time Mr.
Woolley had reached his side, he had determined which was the real
face of the block. With practised hand, Mr. Woolley began to remove
the last crust of soil which covered the treasure underneath. There
was no one to command those peasants to go back to their work, for
the spiritual fruits of discovery belong to all, to the Englishman
no more than to the water-boy who left his donkey to find the
Euphrates alone, while he joined the breathless group whose eyes
were glued on Woolley’s jack-knife deftly doing its work. A burst
of applause greeted the first appearance of something in relief on
the hard rock. It was a hand! no—a corner of a building!—a lion!—a
camel! Guess and conjecture flew about, to be greeted by approval
or derision, always followed by quick, tense silence, while the
jack-knife did its work. Soon Woolley’s trained eye revealed to
him that it was a large animal standing in a perfect state of
preservation and that he was uncovering its head. His feint to
begin at the other end of the figure was greeted by a babble of
protest from his workmen, not yet sure what the figure was.
Woolley’s quick smile acknowledged the reception of his little
joke, and back he went to the spot already uncovered. Soon head,
chest, legs, body, came to light, and exponents of various
theories—cow, horse, sheep—were still backing their claims in
musical gutturals when Woolley’s hand returned to the head of the
animal and with a few quick motions lifted off the earth which
covered the perfect tracery of a magnificent pair of antlers; alive
with the undying art of forty centuries, there stood revealed
before us a superb stag. Such a discovery was worth a celebration,
and unwritten law had ordained the nature of it. For the excavator
nodded in response to the Greek’s whispered query; and, as he gave
the awaited signal, two hundred boys from fifteen to sixty-five
emptied all the chambers of their revolvers in the air. I wonder
what the Germans thought as they heard the volley from their
bridge; for, as I found out a few weeks later when I had galloped
over for another visit with the Englishman, shots at the German
place meant something far different. To-day, perspiring as much
because of their intense excitement over the discovery of the
Hittite stag as from their labors, the Arabs laughingly sat down
to smoke the cigarettes which ended these celebrations, while the
water-boy started wildly in search of his donkey, followed by the
vigorous epithets of his thirsty friends, who knew that the full
flavor of a cigarette comes only with a drink of cold water.

“Noon came all too soon; and it was Thursday, the pay-day. Friday
was the Moslem Sabbath, and these Englishmen were too Christian in
their relations with their Moslem workers to make them labor on
their chosen day. Our drive to Aintab was short, and so we delayed
to see the men paid off, on Lawrence’s assurance that it would be
interesting.

“A table was set in the open court of the ‘room,’ and Woolley
handed out the piasters to the line of workers. That was simple,
but the men had learned to bring their discoveries in on pay-days,
and they received cash rewards for everything turned in. Of course,
the result was exceeding care on their part to lose or break no
fragment in their work; and in fact rare discoveries were sent in
from all the country-side on these pay-days. The excavators would
glance at the article offered. One man would receive a ten-piaster
bonus for what he brought in, perhaps more to encourage him than
because it had any real worth; another would have a fragment of
pottery smilingly returned to him by the judge, while his companions
laughed at him for trying to pass off on the alert Woolley part of
a modern water-jar. Never did the Englishman say, ‘I can pay you
nothing for this, but I will keep it just the same!’ It was either
paid for or returned to the owner. Occasionally a gold coin, bright
as the Arab’s eyes, would reward some happy man; but whether he
got the gold or a laugh, never was the decision of his master and
friend questioned.

“As we tinkled across the plain to the rhythm of the bells on the
horses’ necks, we had food for thought in what we had seen. If
Britain governs much of the world, we wondered if it did not
because of the merit, capacity, and good sense of her sons in all
lands. Impressions of this chance visit to Carchemish were deepened
by residence in Constantinople throughout the World War, where we
watched the German play for the big stake, of which the Euphrates
Bridge was but an incident. And the German lost because of the way
he went after it.

“Thomas Lawrence worked another way. His extraordinary achievement
was wonderful beyond measure. But it was not a miracle. It was but
the outworking of intelligence, imagination, sympathy, character.”

Robert Louis Stevenson in “An Apology for Idlers” deplores that
“many who have ‘plied their book diligently’ and know all about
some branch or other of accepted lore, come out of the study with
an ancient and owl-like demeanor, and prove dry, stockish and
dyspeptic in the better and brighter parts of life.” But in Lawrence
Stevenson would have found a kindred spirit. Though scholar and
scientist, he is neither bookish nor owlish. During the early days
of the Arabian Revolution, a Captain Lloyd, now Sir George Lloyd,
recent governor of Bombay, was in the desert with him for a short
while. He once said to me: “It is difficult to describe the delight
of intimate association with such a man. I found him both poet and
philosopher, but possessor of an unfailing sense of humor.”

Mr. Luther Fowle’s description of that “U-shaped room” at Carchemish
is an illustration of this same sense of humor which makes Lawrence
so thoroughly human, and which saved his life on more than one
occasion. Major Young, of the Near Eastern Secret Corps, who in
pre-war days had known Lawrence in Mesopotamia, relates another
incident. Representatives of England, Germany, France, Russia, and
Turkey met in 1912 and agreed to an arrangement which gave the
Germans control of the important strategic harbor of Alexandretta,
and also permission to continue the railway which they long had
wanted to extend through from Berlin to Bagdad in order to open up
a direct route to the treasure-vaults of Hindustan and Far Cathay.
Lawrence, with his intimate knowledge of history, saw in this a
bold Prussian threat against British power in Asia. Upon learning
of the agreement he immediately hurried down to Cairo, demanded an
audience with Lord Kitchener, and asked K. of K. why Germany had
been permitted to get control of Alexandretta, the vital port to
which Disraeli referred when he said that the peace of the world
would one day depend on the control of that point on the coast of
Asia Minor toward which the finger of Cyprus pointed. Kitchener
replied:

“I have warned London repeatedly, but the Foreign Office pays no
attention. Within two years there will be a World War. Unfortunately,
young man, you and I can’t stop it, so run along and sell your
papers.”

Although deeply chagrined because Britain, wrapped in slumber, had
allowed Germany to extend her sphere of influence all the way from
the Baltic to the Persian Gulf, Lawrence decided to amuse himself
by “pulling the leg” of the German engineers who were working with
feverish haste on the Berlin-to-Bagdad Railway. Loading sections
of drainage-pipe on the backs of mules, he transported them from
Carchemish to the hills which looked down on the new railroad right
of way. There he carefully mounted them on piles of sand. The
German engineers observed them through their field-glasses, and,
as Lawrence had hoped, they mistook these harmless and innocent
pipes for British cannons. Frantically they wired to both
Constantinople and Berlin declaring that the British were fortifying
all the commanding positions. Meanwhile, Lawrence and Woolley were
laughing up their sleeves.

At Jerablus, northeast of Aleppo, the Germans were at work on a
great bridge over the Euphrates. In their typically German way they
painted numbers on the coats of their native workmen as a means of
identifying them. They never even attempted to learn their names.
They even committed the folly of allowing blood-enemies to dig
together. Of course, instead of digging holes for bridge-piles,
they dug holes in each other. This went on for a time, and then
the seven hundred Kurd workmen turned on their German masters and
attacked them. Three hundred of the digging gang at Carchemish
joined their relatives and started a simultaneous attack from the
rear. Fortunately for the kaiser’s myrmidons, Lawrence and Woolley
arrived on the scene in time to prevent a massacre. As a result of
their heroism both archæologists were awarded the Turkish order of
the Medjidieh by the sultan. That was early in 1914, before the
Great War found Lawrence.

One of his first expeditions in the Near East was for the Palestine
Exploration Fund. Lawrence and Woolley attempted to follow the
footsteps of the Israelites through the Wilderness. Along with
other discoveries they found what is believed to be the Kadesh
Barnea of the Bible, the historic spot where Moses brought water
gushing from the rock. First they located a place in the Sinai
Peninsula which the Bedouin called Ain Kadis, where there was one
insignificant well; and perhaps it was there that the Israelites
began complaining to Moses regarding the shortage of water.

“If that really was the place,” remarked Lawrence, “one could
hardly blame the Israelites for grousing.”

Some five miles distant the two archæologists came upon a number
of fine springs in a little valley called Gudurat, and they are of
the opinion that this was where Moses succeeded in regaining the
confidence of the children of Israel, by quenching their thirst
with the sparkling waters of these springs. Later on Woolley and
Lawrence wrote a small book concerning this expedition entitled,
“The Wilderness of Sin.” In it they tell of finding traces of a
civilization dating back to 2500 b. c., the oldest traces
of human habitation ever discovered on the Sinai Peninsula.

Woolley has written a delightful book published by the Oxford
University Press entitled, “Dead Towns and Living Men,” in which
he describes the archæological experiences of Lawrence and himself
before the World War. One story throws considerable light on the
differences between the methods of these two men in dealing with
the natives and the tactics of the Germans at work on the
Berlin-Bagdad line:

  Our house-boy, Ahmed, was coming back one day from
  shopping in the village, and passed a gang of natives working
  on the railway whose foreman owed him money. Ahmed
  demanded payment of the debt, the foreman refused, and a
  wordy wrangle followed. A German engineer on his rounds
  saw that work was being hindered by an outsider, but instead
  of just ordering him off, he called up the two soldiers
  of his bodyguard, seized the unfortunate Ahmed, and without
  any inquiry as to the origin of rights of the dispute, had
  him soundly flogged. Ahmed returned to the house full of
  woe, and as I was away Lawrence went up to the German
  camp to seek redress.

  He found Contzen and told him that one of his engineers
  had assaulted our house-servant and must accordingly
  apologize. Contzen pooh-poohed the whole affair. When
  Lawrence showed him that he was in earnest, however, he
  consented to make inquiries and sent for the engineer in
  question. After talking to him he turned angrily on Lawrence:
  “I told you the whole thing was a lie,” he said;
  “Herr X—— never assaulted the man at all; he merely had
  him flogged!”

  “Well, don’t you call that an assault?” asked Lawrence.

  “Certainly not,” replied the German. “You can’t use
  these natives without flogging them. We have men thrashed
  every day; it’s the only method.”

  “We’ve been here longer than you have,” Lawrence retorted,
  “and have never beaten one of our men yet, and we
  don’t intend to let _you_ start on them. That engineer of
  yours must come down with me to the village and apologize
  to Ahmed in public.”

  Contzen laughed. “Nonsense!” he said, and then, turning
  his back; “the incident is closed.”

  “On the contrary,” replied Lawrence, “if you don’t do as
  I ask I shall take the matter into my own hands.”

  Contzen turned round again. “Which means—” he
  asked.

  “That I shall take your engineer down to the village and
  there _flog him!_”

  “You couldn’t and you daren’t do such a thing!” cried
  the scandalized German; but Lawrence pointed out that
  there was good reason for assuming that he both dared and
  could; and in the end the engineer had to make his apology
  _coram publico_, to the vast amusement of the villagers.

For seven years Lawrence wandered up and down the desert, often
accompanied by Woolley but more frequently alone in native garb.
At one time the British Museum sent him on a short expedition to
the interior of the island of Sumatra, where he had escapes from
head-hunters almost as thrilling as his adventures in Arabia. But
of these we could never persuade him to speak. Some day, perhaps,
he may tell us of them in his memoirs.

I had often wondered why he had chosen Arabia as the field for his
archæological work, instead of Egypt, which is the Mecca and Medina
for most men who love to dig among the ruins of antiquity. His
reply was typical of him. He said:

“Egypt has never appealed to me. Most of the important work there
has been done; and most Egyptologists to-day spend too much of
their time trying to discover just when the third whisker was
painted on the scarab!”



  Photograph: DATE-PALMS ALONG THE CORAL SHORE OF ARABY



  Photograph: LAWRENCE AT HEADQUARTERS IN CAIRO



  Photograph: THE ARCHÆOLOGIST AND POET WHO TURNED SOLDIER



  CHAPTER III


  THE ARCHÆOLOGIST TURNED SOLDIER


Lord Kitchener’s advice and his own personal observations led
Lawrence to believe that a crash was imminent. When it came he at
once attempted to enlist as a private in the ranks of “Kitchener’s
Mob.” But members of the Army Medical Board looked at the frail,
five-foot-three, tow-headed youth, winked at one another, and told
him to run home to his mother and wait until the next war. Just
four years after he had been turned down as physically unfit for
the ranks, this young Oxford graduate, small of stature, shy and
scholarly as ever, entered Damascus at the head of his victorious
Arabian army. Imagine what the members of the medical board would
have said if some one had suggested to them in 1914 that three or
four years later this same young man would decline knighthood and
the rank of general and would even avoid the coveted Victoria Cross
and various other honors!

After his rejection Lawrence returned to his ancient ruins and
toiled lovingly over inscriptions that unlocked the secrets of
civilizations that flourished and crumbled to dust thousands of
years ago. But, with many other scientists, scholars, and a few
young men of exceptional ability, such as Mark Sykes, Aubrey
Herbert, Cornwallis, Newcombe, and others, he was summoned to
headquarters in Cairo by Sir Gilbert F. Clayton. Though he was then
only twenty-six years old, he was already familiar with Turkey,
Syria, Palestine, Arabia, Mesopotamia, and Persia. He had lived
with the wild tribesmen of the interior, as well as with the
inhabitants of the principal cities such as Aleppo, Mosul, Bagdad,
Beyrouth, Jerusalem, and Damascus; in fact, his knowledge of some
parts of the Near East was unique. He not only spoke many of the
languages, but he knew the customs of all the different nationalities
and their historical development. To begin with, he was placed in
the map department, where generals spent hours poring over
inaccurate charts, discussing plans for piercing vulnerable spots
in the Turkish armor. After working out a scheme they would turn,
not infrequently, and ask the insignificant-looking subaltern if,
in view of his personal knowledge of the country, he had any
suggestion to offer. Not infrequently his reply would be:

“While there are many excellent points in your plan, it is not
feasible except at the expense of great loss of time in building
roads for transport of supplies and artillery, and at needless
expense of lives in maintaining lines of communication through the
territory of hostile native tribes.”

Then, as an alternative, he would point out a safer and shorter
route, with which he happened to be familiar because he had tramped
every inch of it afoot while hunting for lost traces of the invading
armies of Assyrians, Greeks, Romans, and Crusaders. The most staid
old army officers on the staff put their confidence in this
quiet-voiced junior lieutenant, and in a short time he had
established a reputation for himself at G. H. Q.

Later on in Arabia, Lawrence frequently outwitted the Turks because
of this same superior knowledge of the topography of the country.
He was better acquainted with many distant parts of the Turkish
Empire than were the Turks themselves.

From the map department he was transferred to another branch of
the Intelligence Service, which dealt mainly with affairs inside
the enemy lines. It was his duty, as one of the heads of the Secret
Corps, to keep the commander-in-chief informed of the movements of
various units of the Turkish army. Sir Archibald Murray, then head
of the British Forces in the Near East, has told me how highly he
valued the knowledge of this youth under whom were the native
secret agents who passed back and forth through the Turkish lines.

It was in the summer of 1915 that the Hedjaz Arabs broke out in
revolt against their Turkish masters in that part of the Arabian
peninsula which lies mainly between the Forbidden City of Mecca
and the southern end of the Dead Sea, known as Holy Arabia.

In order to understand the reasons for the outbreak of this
revolution, and in order to appreciate the delicate and complicated
problems which Lawrence was to face upon his arrival in Arabia
after the Arabs had won a few initial victories and were confronted
with the probability of their revolt collapsing, let us digress
for a moment and glance in retrospect through the pages of Arabian
history and refresh our memories regarding the romantic story of
this historic peninsula and its picturesque peoples.

Legend tells us that Arabia was the home of our common ancestors,
Adam and Eve, the land of the queen of Sheba, home of the heroes
of “The Arabian Nights,” and a country peopled by a race that lived
and hoped and loved before even the prehistoric mound-builders
dwelt on the plains of North America, and before the druids in woad
built their rock temples in Britain. Tradition tells us that it is
a land whose peoples founded empires centuries before Moses led
the children of Israel out of Egypt, perhaps even before Khufu
built the Great Pyramid. Archæologists, who have risked their lives
to solve Arabia’s mysteries, tell us that great cities flourished
and fell there long before the days of Tut-ankh-Amen and that in
one distant corner of the country the great King Hammurabi
formulated his code of justice long before Buddha taught on the
banks of the Ganges and before Confucius enunciated the principle
of the Golden Rule.

Jazirat-ul-Arab, the Peninsula of the Arabs, is larger than England,
Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Holland, Belgium, France, and Spain all
combined. The Greeks and Romans traded, fought, and studied there
and divided it into three geographical parts: Arabia Petræa to the
north, Arabia Deserta to the east, and Arabia Felix (Arabia the
blest) to the west.

Although some scholars believe it to have been the birthplace of
the human race, we have better maps of the north pole; in fact, we
have better maps of Mars than we have of some parts of the interior
of Arabia from whence came many of the fighting men of Lawrence’s
army.

The distance from the city of Aleppo, at the extreme north, to the
city of Mecca, half-way down the western coast of Arabia, is as
great as the distance from London to Rome. Yet Lawrence and his
men trekked all the way from Mecca to Aleppo on the backs of
camels, over country as barren as the mountains of the moon.

In order to keep from becoming confused by the strange Arabic names
it would be well for the reader to keep in mind that the Arabian
campaign opened at Mecca and moved steadily north to Akaba, and
then on to Damascus and Aleppo in Syria. Each event described in
this account is a little farther north than the last.

Although some authorities on the Near East estimate that there is
a total population of twenty million people in the whole of Arabia,
for centuries a large portion of them have been held together only
by loose travel alliances, like those which existed between the
Red Indian tribes of America a hundred years ago.

The peoples of Arabia since time immemorial have been divided into
two distinct classes: those who dwell in villages and cities, and
those who wander from place to place with all their worldly
possessions in their camel-bags. Both classes are called Arabs,
but the wandering nomads are referred to as Bedouins whenever it
is desired to differentiate between them and their kinsmen of the
cultivated areas. The true Bedouin knows nothing about the
cultivation of land, and his only animals are his camels and
horses. The Bedouins are the more admirable of the two. They are
the Arabs who have preserved the love of freedom and the ancient
virtues of this virile race.

The foremost of all Arabian travelers was an Englishman, Charles
M. Doughty, poet, philosopher, and author of that great classic,
“Arabia Deserta,” written in quaint Elizabethan style. With the
exception of Colonel Lawrence, he was the only European who ever
spent any considerable length of time traveling about the interior
of Holy Arabia without disguising himself as a Mohammedan. Doughty
found, what all who know them have discovered, that the Bedouins
are kind hosts if visited in their camps. But frequently the
stranger who falls into their hands in the desert, under
circumstances which according to their unwritten law do not cause
them to regard him as a guest, finds them ruthless. In savage
wantonness the Shammar Arabs may even cut his throat. There is a
proverb in the desert that a man will slay the son of his mother
for old shoe-leather; but, despite this, their hospitality is so
sweeping that it has become proverbial throughout the world. “The
Bedouin says: ‘Be we not all guests of Allah?’” Then adds Doughty,
“After the guests eat ‘the bread and salt’ there is a peace
established between them for a time (that is counted two nights
and a day, in the most whilst their food is in him).”

The word “Arab” comes from “Araba,” the name of a small territory
in an ancient province south of the Hedjaz, which is said to have
been named after Yarab, the son of Kahtan, the son of Abeis, the
son of Shalah, the son of Arfakhshad, the son of Shem, the son of
Noah, who they say was the first to speak Arabic, “the tongue of
the angels.” They are a Semitic people, of the same race as the
Jews.

The world owes much to the Arabs. Not only did they invent many of
our boyhood games, such as the humming top set spinning by pulling
a cord, but they made great strides in medicine, and their materia
medica was but little different from the modern. Their highly
skilled surgeons were performing difficult major operations with
the use of anesthetics in the day when Europe depended entirely
upon the miraculous healing of the clergy. In chemistry we have
them to thank for the discovery of alcohol, potassium, nitrate of
silver, corrosive sublimate, sulphuric acid, and nitric acid. They
even had experimented in scientific farming and understood
irrigation, the use of fertilizers, and such things as the grafting
of fruit and flowers. They were world-famous for their tanning of
leather, their dyeing of cloth, their manufacture of glass and
pottery, of textiles, and of paper, and for their unsurpassed
workmanship in gold, silver, copper, bronze, iron, and steel.

The richest part of Arabia, excluding Mesopotamia, always has been,
and still is, the province of Yemen in the extreme southwestern
corner, a mountainous region just north of Aden, famous these
thousands of years for its wealth, its delightful climate, the
fertility of its valleys, and as the home of Mocha coffee. Strabo,
the Greek geographer, tells us that Alexander the Great, shortly
before his death, planned to return from India and there establish
his imperial capital. Many scholars believe this rich region to
have been the original habitation of man and the country whence
the early Egyptians came. Beginning earlier than 1000 b. c.,
highly organized monarchies existed here such as the
Minæan, the Sabæan, and the Himyaritic. After the destruction of
Jerusalem by Titus, many Jews fled here, and their quaint
descendants still reside in Yemen. But when the Ptolemies introduced
the sea-route to India, the Yemen became less important, and for
centuries the best-known part of Arabia has been the province of
Hedjaz on the Red Sea, north of Yemen, bounded on the east by the
Central Arabian region known as Nejd, and on the northeast and
north by Syria, the Dead Sea, Palestine, and the Sinai Peninsula.
The word “Hedjaz” or “Hijaz” means “barrier.” The fame of this
particularly waterless country is due to its two chief cities:
Mecca, the birthplace of Mohammed, in olden times called Macoraba;
and Medina, the ancient Yathrib, where the Prophet spent the last
ten years of his life and where he was interred. It is the duty of
all Moslems who can afford it to make a pilgrimage to these sacred
cities, just as it was the duty of the people to journey here in
idolatrous pre-Islamic times.

About a thousand years before Columbus discovered America, a boy
was born in the city of Mecca. This boy was destined to shape very
materially the history of the world. As a youth he herded goats
and sheep on the hills around Mecca, and then as a young man he
hired himself out as a camel-driver to a rich widow in Mecca. He
used to drive her camel caravans up to Syria to trade with rich
merchants there. In Syria he became better acquainted with the
religions of the Jews and the Christians and became convinced that
his fellow-Arabs, who were worshipers of idols, did not possess a
true religion. So this camel-driver appropriated some of the tenets
of Christianity, some of the principles of Judaism, a few scraps
of philosophy from the Persian fire-worshipers, a sprinkling of
Arabian tradition, then threw in a number of his own ideas for good
measure, and established a new religion. He encouraged his followers
to regard Adam, Abraham, Moses, and Christ as prophets of Islam.
To-day, however, they are looked upon as of infinitely less
importance than Mohammed himself, whose teachings are regarded as
a later and final revelation of the will of God. Nearly every
family in Arabia has at least one child named after the Prophet.
There are more men in the world bearing the given name “Mohammed”
than there are with such names as “John” and “William.”

Is it so strange, after all, that the desert should be the old
homestead of three of the world’s greatest religions—Judaism,
Christianity, and Mohammedanism? The Arabs call the desert the
Garden of Allah; they say there is no one in the desert but God.
Out in the deserts of Arabia, even more than in many other parts
of the world, “The heavens declare the glory of God; and the
firmament sheweth His handy-work. Day unto day uttereth speech,
and night unto night sheweth knowledge.” There is no striving in
the desert to amass wealth for wealth’s sake; there is no mad rush
to get ahead of one’s fellow-men. One of the curses of our modern
civilization is that we do not have time to think or meditate. The
desert is a fitting place for one to ponder over man’s destiny and
to meditate upon the things that moth and rust do not corrupt and
that thieves do not break through and steal.

Mohammed, the camel-boy of Mecca, was the first man to bind together
in any sort of unity the peoples of Arabia. He came at the opportune
time when a great leader was needed to drive out foreign domination.
It was by his amazing evangelization that he succeeded in uniting
the Arabs. To an even greater degree than most leaders of men this
camel-boy of Mecca had:

  The Monarch mind, the mystery of commanding,
  The birth-hour gift, the art Napoleon,
  Of wielding, moulding, gathering, welding, bending,
  The hearts of thousands till they moved as one.

Following the death of Mohammed came that great wave of fanatical
fury when the Arabian peoples, filled with religious fervor, swept
out of the desert, overran a great part of the world, and built up
that huge Moslem Empire which was even greater than the empire of
the Romans. In those triumphant days of Islam, the Arabs supplied
the dominant religious, political, and military leaders for all
the countries they conquered. They seemed irresistible. “When the
Arabs, who had fed on locusts and wild honey, once tasted the
delicacies of civilization in Syria, and reveled in the luxurious
palaces of the Khosroes,” writes El Tabari, the Moslem historian,
“they said, ‘By Allah, even if we cared not to fight for the cause
of God, yet we could not but wish to contend and enjoy _these,_
leaving distress and hunger henceforth to others.’” Within a
century after the death of Mohammed the Hedjaz Arabs had built up
an empire vaster than either that of Alexander or of Rome; “Islam
swept across the world like a whirlwind.”

But the vast empire reached its zenith in the seventh century of
this era, and its decline dates from the battle of Tours, a. d.
732, when the Arabs were defeated in France by the Christians under
Charles Martel.

Many of the Arabs remained in the lands they had conquered. As
merchants and missionaries they have carried the crisp, brief creed
of Mohammed from Arabia to Gibraltar, Central Africa, Central
China, and the islands of the South Seas. Unlike followers of other
faiths, they shout their creed from the minarets and housetops of
every land where they are to be found: “La-ilahu ilia Allah! Allahu
Akbar!”

And even to-day we find thousands of Arabs occupying positions of
affluence in far-off Hong-Kong, Singapore, the East Indies, and
Spain. The others drifted back to their old life in the Arabian
Desert. Once more Arabia stood isolated from the world by the
barren mountain ranges which fringe its coasts and by its trackless
belts of shifting sand. In the twelfth century the descendants of
Saladin, who was half Kurd, conquered the fringes of Arabia. Then
three centuries later a new tribe swept down from the unknown
plateaus of Central Asia. They were of the tribe of Othman,
forefathers of the modern Turks, and they attempted to govern the
Arabs as though they were a people of an inferior race. The Turks
claimed possession of Arabia for four hundred years, simply because
they were able to maintain a few garrisons along the coast. A few
of these garrisons were successful in holding out to the very end
of the Great War, but at last they surrendered, leaving Arabia once
again in the undisputed possession of its freedom-loving inhabitants.

The Hedjaz tribes have never acknowledged the sovereignty of any
foreign ruler. They have preserved their liberty with but little
interruption since prehistoric times, and consequently they regard
their personal freedom above all else. Great armies have been sent
against them, but not even the Assyrians, the Medes, the Persians,
the Greeks, or the Romans were able to conquer them.

Ever since the decline of the Arabian Empire, more than a thousand
years ago, generals, sultans, and califs have attempted to unify
the peoples of Arabia, and particularly of the province of Hedjaz,
because it contains the two sacred Mohammedan cities. None were
successful, but where they failed, Thomas Edward Lawrence, the
unknown unbeliever, succeeded. It remained for this youthful
British archæologist to go into forbidden Arabia and lead the Arabs
through the spectacular and triumphant campaign which helped
Allenby break the backbone of the Turkish Empire and destroy the
Pan-German dream of world dominion. The way in which he swept the
Turks from Holy Arabia and temporarily built this mosaic of peoples
into a homogeneous nation, now known as the Kingdom of the Hedjaz,
is a story that I should have failed to believe had I not visited
Arabia and come into personal contact with Lawrence and his
associates during their campaign.

Perhaps no factor played a greater part in simplifying Lawrence’s
task in Arabia than the existence of an ancient desert fraternity
which has been called “the cult of the Blood of Mohammed.” We must
know something about this cult and its present-day leaders in order
to understand the diplomacy and strategy of Colonel Lawrence which
we are to follow during the desert war.



  CHAPTER IV


  THE CULT OF THE BLOOD OF MOHAMMED


During the long centuries of uncertain Turkish rule, there had
persisted, in the sacred cities of the Hedjaz, “the cult of the
Blood of Mohammed,” with its membership limited to descendants of
the Prophet. These people were called shereefs or nobles by the
other Arabs, and they had never lost their hatred for the Turks,
whom they regarded as intruders. So powerful was this cult that
the Ottoman Government could not destroy it. However, when shereefs
living within reach of the string of fortified Turkish posts along
the fringe of the desert protested openly against Ottoman tyranny,
the sultan usually “invited” them to come and reside near him in
Constantinople. There they would either remain as virtual prisoners
or quietly be put out of the way. Abdul Hamid, the last great
sultan, was an expert in following this private policy of his
predecessors, and among the prominent Arabs he found it the better
part of discretion to have near him at the Sublime Porte was one
Shereef Hussein of Mecca. He was the oldest living descendant of
Mohammed and was therefore believed by many to be the man really
entitled to the califate, the spiritual and temporal head of Islam.
The title of calif had originally been given only to the lineal
descendants of Mohammed but later had been usurped by the Turks.

No people in the world take more pride in their ancestry than the
Arabs. The births of all the leading princely families are recorded
in Mecca at the mosque built around the black stone which millions
of people regard as the most sacred spot in the world. Here, on a
scroll of parchment, is inscribed the name of Hussein Ibn Ali,
direct lineal descendant of Mohammed through his daughter Fatima
and her eldest son Hassan.

When King Hussein was young, he had too much spirit to live tamely
with his family in Mecca. Instead, he roamed the desert with the
Bedouins and took part in all their raids and tribal wars. His
mother was a Circassian, and much of his vigor is inherited from
her. Abdul Hamid, the Red Sultan, received many disturbing reports
regarding the wild life led by this independent shereef. Abdul had
two ways of dealing with a man whom he feared or distrusted. He
would either tie him in a sack and throw him into the Bosporus or
keep him in Constantinople under close personal observation.
Although he was afraid that Hussein might conspire against him,
the fact that Hussein was a direct descendant of Mohammed made it
difficult for old Abdul to chuck him into the Bosporus. So he gave
him a pension and a little house on the Golden Horn, where the
shereef and his family were compelled to live for eighteen years.



  Map: The war in the land of the Arabian Nights commenced at the
  holy city of Mecca, after which Emir Feisal and Colonel Lawrence
  led the Arab army while it fought its way north across the desert
  for over a thousand miles to Aleppo. Dotted line indicates the
  region covered by this narrative.



  Photograph: A MUEZZIN CALLING THE FAITHFUL TO PRAYER



When the revolution of the Young Turks came in 1912 and Abdul was
overthrown, all political prisoners were released from
Constantinople, and Hussein and other Arab Nationalist leaders
thought they saw the dawn of a new era of freedom and liberty. In
fact, they too had assisted the Young Turks in overthrowing the
old régime. But their hopes were soon dispelled, for the new
Committee of Unity and Progress rashly set out to Ottomanize all
the peoples of that complex of races which made up the Turkish
Empire. They even went so far as to insist that the Arabs should
give up their beautiful language—“the tongue of the angels”—and
substitute the corrupt Ottoman dialect. It was not long before
Hussein discovered that the Committee of Unity and Progress, headed
by Enver, Talaat, and Djemal, was far more tyrannical than old
Abdul in his bloodiest moments. They now looked back on the
villainous Abdul as a harmless old gentleman in comparison with
his successors. The Young Turks even suggested that in the Koran
Turkish heroes should be substituted for the ancient patriarchs.
Words of Arabic origin were deleted from the Turkish vocabulary.
In Mecca the exaggerated story was told that the Turks were
reverting to the ancient heathenism of Othman and that soldiers in
Constantinople were required to pray to the White Wolf, a deity of
the barbaric days before the Ottoman horde left its early home in
the wilds of Central Asia.

Although the Arab leaders despaired of seeing a happier day for
their country, Shereef Hussein and his sons concealed their hatred
for the autocratic triumvirate and the whole Young Turk party.
Because of the help he had given the triumvirate before he was
disillusioned as to their real aims, they granted him the title of
Keeper of the Holy Places of Islam, or the sixty-sixth Emir of
Mecca of the Ottoman period.

Miss Gertrude Bell, the only woman staff captain in the British
army and one of the foremost authorities on Near Eastern affairs,
in a letter to “The Times” of London declared that the Arab
Nationalist movement was given vitality by the Young Turks, who as
soon as they came into power changed their whole attitude.

“Liberty and equality are dangerous words to play with in an empire
composed of divergent nationalities,” wrote Miss Bell. “Of these
the Arabs, adaptable and quick-witted, proudly alive to their
traditions of past glory as founders of Islam, and upholders for
700 years of the authority of the Khilafat, were the first to claim
the translation of promise into performance, and in the radiant
dawn of the constitutional era the Arab _intelligentsia_ eagerly
anticipated that their claim would be recognised. If the Turks had
responded with a genuine attempt to allow Arab culture to develop
along its own lines under their ægis, the Ottoman Empire might have
taken on new life, but their inelastic mentality precluded them
from embracing the golden opportunity. Moreover, Prussian militarism
made to them a peculiarly powerful, and, if the political
configuration of their Empire be considered, a peculiarly dangerous
appeal. The Committee of Union and Progress was determined to hack
its way through the sensibilities of subject races, and, not
content with this formidable task, by neglecting the cautious
diplomatic methods of Abdul Hamid it found itself involved in a
disastrous and debilitating struggle with its neighbour States in
Europe.

“Before the war of 1914 broke out, not only were the Arab provinces
filled with hatred and desire for vengeance . . .”

In the luxurious atmosphere of the Ottoman metropolis Hussein’s
four sons quite naturally had grown up more like young Turkish
bloods than Arab youths. They had spent most of their time rowing
on the Bosporus and attending court balls. For six years, Prince
Feisal had acted as private secretary to Abdul Hamid. When the
Grand Shereef returned to Mecca he immediately summoned his four
sons and informed them that they were altogether too effete and
too accustomed to the soft ways of Stamboul to suit him.
“Constantinople and its accursed life of luxury are now behind
thee. Praise be to Allah! Henceforth thou art to make thy home
under the canopy of heaven with thy brothers of the black tents in
order that the glory of our house may not be disgraced. Allahu
Akbar!” So saying the aged emir fitted the deed to the word and
ordered them out to patrol the pilgrim routes. These routes are
mere camel-tracks across the burning sands connecting the Red Sea
coast with Mecca, the Holy City, and the summer capital of Taif,
and between Medina and Mecca. With each of his sons he sent a
company of his best fighting men. They were not even permitted to
use tents but were compelled to sleep in their cloaks. They spent
their days chasing robbers. The worst robbers in the desert are
the men of the Harith clan, some one hundred outlaws, nearly all
of them banished members of Shereefian families. These men of
Harith had entrenched themselves in a naturally fortified village
fifty miles northeast of Mecca. Expeditions against them and other
bandits developed Hussein’s sons into self-reliant, capable leaders.
That Emir Feisal is such a prominent figure in the Near East to-day
is not entirely because of his royal blood but partly because he
excels in ways which make for leadership in the Arabian Desert.
These are not a knowledge of bridge or Browning!

Ali, the eldest son, is a small, thin, well-groomed prince. He has
delightful manners, great personal charm, and is an accomplished
diplomat. He is deeply religious, the essence of generosity, and
a martinet on all questions of morality. Like the other members of
his family he has far-reaching views and aspirations for his
country. But he has no personal aspirations beyond the emirate of
Mecca, to which he will, in all probability, fall heir at the death
of his father. Abdullah, the second son, is ambitious and vigorous
but is not quite such an idealist. At the termination of the war
he became the ruler of Transjordania, with a famous English traveler
by the name of St. John Philby as his adviser. The youngest member
of the family, Prince Zeid, is half Turk. There is not so much of
the Oriental about him, and when the revolt was at its height he
still lacked the seriousness of his older brothers. This youth left
such solid enthusiasms as Arab nationalism to the rest of his
family and devoted himself to fighting and to the lighter joys of
life, as one would expect from a normal prince in his early
twenties. He is nevertheless rich in common sense. Zeid loves
hunting, riding, and dancing. After the Arabs and Anzacs took
Damascus he jazzed all over the city until Feisal convinced him
that he should conduct himself with greater dignity. He also is a
man of considerable charm and, if his ambition to attend Oxford is
realized, may yet prove himself the ablest of an illustrious
family.

Feisal, third and best known of Hussein’s four sons, is an idealist.
Although modest and reserved, he is a man of great personality.
Every Arab is a born diplomat, and Feisal is well above the average.

Children of the desert have few games. They do not know how to play
as our Western children do. Life is a serious and sober affair from
the moment the Arab baby opens his eyes on the woman’s side of the
black tent. As soon as he is able to crawl, he comes into the
tribal council. His only school is the coffee hearth; his only
education consists in the handling of men and camels.

Emir Feisal began life as a dirty little shepherd boy. His mother
was an Arab girl of Mecca and a cousin of his father. When Feisal
was a little baby, Shereef Hussein sent him into the desert to live
with a Bedouin tribe, because it is considered more beneficial for
a boy to grow up in the open desert country than in a city or
village. Later, in Constantinople, Feisal contracted consumption,
but since then the desert has cured him. He is still very thin,
however, and measures only twenty-one inches around the waist. He
smokes cigarettes day and night and eats sparingly. Among the
tribes he is considered an unusually fine shot and good horseman
and an excellent camel-rider. Feisal is enlightened and thoroughly
modern in his views, and Colonel Lawrence, who knows him better
than any one else, declares that he is as honest as daylight. His
people follow him not through fear but because they admire him and
love him. He is much too kind and liberal-minded to rule as an
Oriental despot of the old school. Given the opportunity, he may
be depended upon to do his utmost to usher in an entirely new order
of things for his people.

Certain statesmen of world prominence choose detective stories for
their moments of relaxation; Prince Feisal, in the lull between
campaigns, refreshed himself for renewed battle and the cares of
state with classical Arabic poetry. His favorite poet is Imr el
Kais, the most renowned of all Arab bards, who lived just before
Mohammed, and who wrote about camels, the desert, and love. Among
Feisal’s other favorites are Ibn Isham, Ibn el Ali, Zuhair, Zarafa,
Al Harith, and Mutanabbi, great writers of the Middle Ages, when
Arabian learning and culture penetrated to the most remote corners
of Europe. Mutanabbi’s couplet must have struck a responsive chord
in Feisal’s heart:

  Night and my steed and the desert know me—
  And the lance thrust and battle, and parchment and pen.

I also saw him frequently reading the works of Antara, the famous
poet who wrote a huge epic of his own life filled with tales of
raids and love lyrics. The recent war of liberation inspired many
new poets to arouse the people by means of patriotic songs. Even
the humblest camel-driver improvised songs built around Lawrence,
Feisal, and that celebrated warrior, Auda Abu Tayi.

Poetry, song, and proverb all exalt the virtue of hospitality among
the Arabs. An Arab, from Hussein down to the humblest of his
subjects, will risk his own life rather than allow any harm to
befall a guest, even if the latter happens to be his worst enemy.
For many months prior to the outbreak of the Arabian revolution,
Shereef Hussein and his sons were secretly preparing for it, while
leading the Turks to believe that they were mobilizing against the
Allies. Emir Feisal happened to be in Damascus during this period
as the guest of Djemal Pasha, the Turkish viceroy of Syria and
Palestine. His father sent word to him that he had succeeded in
gathering together a number of tribes for an attack on the Turkish
garrison at Medina; so Feisal excused himself on some pretext and
said he must return south. Djemal urged him to delay his departure
for a few days, saying that he and Enver Pasha would like to
accompany him to Medina. When Feisal arrived at Medina with Djemal
and Enver, they attended a review of over five thousand Arab
tribesmen who whirled by on camels and horses, firing their rifles
into the air. The two members of the Turkish triumvirate were
delighted with the warlike display and told Feisal that his men
would be of great assistance to the sultan and his illustrious
fellow-Mohammedan ruler, Kaiser William Pasha, in their war against
the Unbeliever.

That night, during the usual banquet, Ali Ibn Hussein, of the
robber Harith clan, and a number of other shereefs and sheiks stole
up to Feisal and whispered:

“We have the palace surrounded and are going to kill these Turkish
dogs.”

Realizing that his followers were in dead earnest, Feisal waved
them aside for the moment and, turning to Djemal and Enver, said:

“Now, gentlemen, according to our custom, after a banquet of this
kind, you must spend the night in my house.”

Feisal then established his guests in his own room and slept
outside the door all night. Without leaving them for a single
moment, he took them to the train the next morning and accompanied
them on their three-day journey to Damascus. This required no
little nerve, for if Djemal and Enver had suspected that anything
was wrong in Medina and that the Arabs did not intend to coöperate
with Turkey and Germany in the war, they would either have killed
Feisal or held him as a hostage to guarantee the good behavior of
his father.

An Arabian banquet is an occasion to be remembered. After the war
King Hussein entertained at the _Belediyah_, the town-hall of
Jeddah, in honor of Prince Georges Lotfallah of Egypt. Rows and
rows of small tables were placed end to end and then piled high
with food until they groaned under the weight. Eighty guests were
served at one sitting, and the waiters walked up and down on top
of the tables, looking down at you. If your plate was not full they
would slice off a slab of sheep or goat and then step over the cake
and attend to your neighbor. After the first eighty had dined, the
next sitting was served in like manner.



  CHAPTER V


  THE FALL OF JEDDAH AND MECCA


When the World War pulled Turkey into the maelstrom, with Great
Britain, France, Russia, and Italy pitted against her, it was the
hour of opportunity for Arabia. Unable to obtain sufficient funds
and ammunition, Shereef Hussein was compelled to let many months
pass by without declaring himself. Then came the news of the
surrender of Kut el Amara by General Townsend. This was a serious
reverse for the Allies and an important victory for the Turks.
Hussein could no longer hold his followers. He sent word to the
British Government that he could not stand by and permit his people
to remain subject to the Turks. He asked for assistance, but before
receiving a reply, with all the pent-up fury and hatred of five
hundred years of oppression and dishonor, the Arabs of the Hedjaz
leaped at the throats of the Turks. From all parts of the desert
came the swarthy, lean, picturesque sons of Ishmael to avenge and
free themselves at last.

Hussein and his four sons had worked out all the details of their
plan for the revolution, but kept them secret until a few weeks
before they touched off the fuse. They did not even dare to trust
their close associates, because in Turkish territory plots were
usually discovered before they matured, and no man knew whom he
could trust. Not only were there spies but innumerable spies on
spies.

Early in 1916, when Lieutenant Lawrence was making a reputation
for himself with the Secret Corps in Cairo, Grand Shereef Hussein
sent word to all the tribes of Holy Arabia to be ready at a moment’s
notice. Then, on June 9, he gave the signal. At the same instant
he himself publicly denounced Enver, Talaat, Djemal, and their
infamous Committee of Unity and Progress. Simultaneous attacks were
launched against Mecca, Jeddah, the seaport to the holy city, and
Medina, three of the least known and most interesting cities in
the world. And before we continue to the point in the Arab Revolt
where Lawrence made his entrance, let us stop and see these centers
of life in the Hedjaz whence came so many of Lawrence’s associates.

When you land at Jeddah you blink your eyes and pinch yourself to
see if you are awake. The Koran forbids the use of intoxicating
liquors, but either the architects who designed this city were not
faithful Mussulmans or most of the buildings were constructed
before Mohammed introduced prohibition into Arabia. The streets of
Jeddah are a bewildering maze of narrow zigzag canons between tall
tottering houses, which look as though they had been joggled about
by incessant earthquakes. Many of the houses are of five and six
stories and are used only for the accommodation of pilgrims who
pass through on their way to Mecca during Ramadan, a time when the
population of the city increases from twenty thousand to perhaps
one hundred thousand. The most fitting way I can think of describing
this weird Arabian seaport is to say that it looks like any ordinary
Oriental city might look to a man suffering from delirium tremens.
The Leaning Tower of Pisa would be in an appropriate setting if it
were transferred to Jeddah. Symmetry seems to be an unknown quantity
in this part of the Near East. It is said that an Arab carpenter
cannot draw a right angle, and an Arab waiter never puts a
table-cloth on square. The sacred shrine of the Mohammedans in
Mecca, known as the Kaaba, meaning “cube,” has none of its sides
or angles equal. Arab streets are seldom parallel, and even “the
street that is called straight” in Damascus is not straight!
Jeddah, with its inebriated buildings, its crazy fragile balconies,
its leaning minarets, its lazy Arab merchants squatting cross-legged
on top of tables in front of chaotic shops, its fantastic arcaded
bazaars covered in with patchwork roofs pieced together like the
sails of a Chinese junk, is the nearest approach to a futurist
paradise of any city in the world.

Arabia is indeed a topsyturvy land. Where we measure most of our
liquids and weigh most of our solids, they weigh their liquids and
measure their solids. Where we use knives and forks and spoons,
they use their hands. Where we use tables and chairs they recline
on the floor. Where we mount from the left, they mount their camels
and horses from the right. We read from left to right, while they
read from right to left. The desert-dweller keeps his head covered
in the summer and winter alike, and his feet usually unprotected.
Where we take off our hats in entering a friend’s house, they take
off their shoes.

In addition to its Arab population, Jeddah is inhabited by the
remnants of a thousand pilgrimages, descendants of pilgrims who
had sufficient money to enable them to reach Mecca but not enough
to enable them to leave Arabia after fulfilling their religious
vows. Many of them are poverty-stricken and barely able to eke out
a living at the odd jobs which they get during the short pilgrimage
season each year. Among them are Javanese, Filipinos, Malays,
representatives of a dozen different Indian races, Kurds, Turks,
Egyptians, Sudanese, Abyssinians, Senegalese, tribesmen from the
Sahara, Zanzibaris, Yemenites, Somalis, and numerous others.

One afternoon, accompanied by Major Goldie, an officer attached to
the British mission which had its headquarters there during the
campaign, I rode out through the Mecca gate to the Abyssinian
quarter. The dwellings of these primitive people are round huts
with conical thatched roofs, surrounded by high kraal fences made
of rusty petrol and preserved-meat tins. We pulled up our ponies
in front of a hut where a negro woman was busy tanning a hide. The
moment she saw us she began screaming: “Oh, why have you come to
destroy my home? Oh, why are you going to carry away my child? Oh!
Oh! Oh! What have I done that you should want to shoot me?” Although
Goldie did his best to reassure her, she continued this wail until
we rode out of hearing.

On either side of Jeddah, a few miles distant, are small ports
which foreigners scrupulously avoid visiting. Tourists have never
been welcome because these villages for many years have been
slave-trading centers. Here negroes, smuggled across from the
African coast, were sold to wealthy Arabs. The Turkish Government
winked at this vicious commerce, but King Hussein is vigorously
endeavoring to stamp it out. As a result of Hussein’s stand on the
slavery question, the price of a well-built young negro has advanced
from the pre-war quotation of £50 to £300 or even as high as £500.
Although the trade may continue surreptitiously for a short time,
the king and his sons are so bitterly opposed to it that it is only
a question of months until they will have driven it out.

Beyond the north gate of the Jeddah wall Major Goldie took me to
see what thousands of Mohammedans believe to be the tomb of the
common ancestor of us all. There is a century-old tradition to the
effect that it was here near Jeddah that the ark grounded after
the Great Flood. According to one version of the story, on his six
hundred and first birthday, not long after the waters had abated,
Noah and his three sons, Shem, Ham, and Japheth, were walking along
the beach when they came to a depression in the sand. This
depression seemed to resemble a human form. It was about three
hundred feet long. Ham asked his father what he thought it could
be, and the venerable patriarch replied, “Ham, my lad, that is the
last resting-place of Mother Eve.” Of course there are many educated
Mohammedans who laugh at this legend, but, nevertheless, a wall
three hundred feet long has been built around the supposed
depression, and within this inclosure is a white mosque where
thousands of women worship every year. They believe Mother Eve was
three hundred feet in height. Just think how the rest of us must
have degenerated! But the city takes its name from this tomb, for
the word “Jeddah” means grandmother or ancestress.

Since the time of Mohammed, no Jews, Christians, followers of
Zoroaster, or other unbelievers, have been welcome anywhere in the
Hedjaz except along the coast. None but the faithful are even
allowed to go beyond the Jeddah wall through the east gate, which
leads in the direction of Mecca. The British officers who were
stationed in Jeddah from the outbreak of the revolution until the
end of the war scrupulously observed this unwritten law. During
the campaign no Allied representatives ever visited the forbidden
capital of the king of the Hedjaz—at any rate not officially or
for publication. King Hussein even went so far as to request the
British authorities to instruct all officers piloting seaplanes
attached to war-ships cruising in the Red Sea under no circumstances
to profane the air by flying over either Mecca or Medina.

This very day millions of Moslems are turning their faces five
times toward Mecca and declaring over and over again:

“La ilaha Allah wa Muhammad-ar-rasul Allah! There is but one God,
Allah, and Mohammed is His Prophet.”

Mecca and Medina, its sister metropolis of the desert, are the two
most mysterious cities in the world. Any man in the vicinity of
either who declared that Christ was the son of God would be torn
to pieces.

Since the time of Mohammed, Mecca and Medina have been forbidden
to all but Moslems. In fact, the fanatical followers of the founder
of Islam would destroy any intruder whom they even suspected of
being an unbeliever. For this reason all conferences between King
Hussein and the representatives of the British and French
Governments were held in Jeddah.

We have a record of only a dozen or so Christians who have visited
Mecca during the past one thousand years—and lived to tell the
tale. The most celebrated of these, of course, was Sir Richard
Burton. Fewer still have visited Medina. At the end of the
eighteenth century a puritanical and fanatical sect from Central
Arabia called the Wahabis overran the Hedjaz and captured Mecca.
They were driven out by an Egyptian army under Mohammed Ali, and
for a time an adventurer and ex-sergeant in the Black Watch had
the unique honor of acting as governor of Medina and guardian of
the tomb of the Prophet.



  Photograph: HUSSEIN I King of the Hejaz, “Commander of the
    Faithful,” and founder of a new Arabian dynasty



  Photograph: EMIR FEISAL, NOW KING OF MESOPOTAMIA (IRAK)



Not only do all Mohammedans turn toward Mecca to pray, because it
was the birthplace of their Prophet, but many of them build their
houses, and even their outhouses, facing Mecca; and when they die
they are buried facing Mecca.

Mohammed enjoined his followers to make pilgrimages to Mecca. He
advocated this in order to satisfy the pagans of Arabia, who had
been doing it for centuries. The city has no economic importance,
but the pilgrims who go there each year during the month of Zu el
Hajz are a source of income to its one hundred and fifty thousand
inhabitants.

Tens of thousands of pilgrims visit Mecca annually, although for
many who come from far-off lands two years are required to make
the trip.

The region about Mecca is all holy. Pilgrims are not permitted to
disturb the wild animals nor even to cut the thorns or desert
herbs. The holy city of Islam is located in a narrow pocket between
the hills where two valleys join. Three forts frown down upon Mecca
from the heights and were occupied by Turkish troops until King
Hussein’s followers drove them out.

In the center of Mecca is the Great Mosque, which was built as a
place of pagan worship many centuries before the birth of Mohammed.
It is known as the Mosque of the Kaaba or Masjid Al Haram, which
means “the sacred temple.” Within the courtyard is a small
cube-shaped building, the famous Kaaba. It is covered over with a
gorgeous holy carpet of black silk with a wide border of gold
lettering, texts from the Koran. The roof is supported by pillars
of aloe wood. Around the edge is a spout of gold, which carries
off rain-water. Embedded in one of the walls is the most sacred
object in the world to more than two hundred millions of people.
It is the black stone of meteoric origin which the Mohammedans
believe was tossed down from heaven by the Angel Gabriel to Father
Abraham. They say it was once whiter than milk but that it has been
turned black by the sins of the people who have kissed it. Others
say that it derived its color from Adam’s tears. It has been broken
in seven pieces, and its parts are now held together by a background
of cement surrounded by a silver band studded with silver nails.

The followers of the Prophet believe that this cube-shaped building
rests directly underneath the throne of God. They say it was
lowered down from heaven at the request of Adam and that it is an
exact duplicate of one that he had seen in paradise before his
expulsion, called Beit al Mamur, and frequented by angels. Very
few people ever enter the Kaaba, but those who do keep their eyes
down in an attitude of reverence and humble submission to divine
power. If a pilgrim from Syria enters it, for the rest of his life
he never goes barefoot, because he believes that his skin has
touched holy ground and therefore must never be placed on profane
earth again.

The holy carpet which covers the Kaaba is replaced each year by a
new one. Formerly there were two sent each year, one of which came
down from Damascus from the sultan of Turkey, while the other was
made in Cairo and presented to the mosque by the sultan of Egypt.
When a new one is put up, the old one is cut into bits by the
pilgrims, who take the pieces home for souvenirs.

According to tradition, from the dawn of creation to judgment day
at least one pilgrim is always supposed to be engaged in walking
seven times around the Kaaba. But about every twenty years great
floods come and fill all the streets of Mecca, including the
mosque, and when these floods occur men are hired to swim around
it day and night in order that the ceremony may never be interrupted.

The pilgrims kiss the black stone, run around the building seven
times, take a drink from a holy well called Zem Zem, and kiss the
stone again. Sir Richard Burton said that when he tried to kiss
the black stone he found himself in a milling throng of religious
devotees, each of whom was trying to force his way through the
crowd in order that he might press his lips against the most sacred
object in the world. He said that these religious enthusiasts were
all calling out their prayers in loud voices, and between sentences
of their prayers they would stop and curse the man who was elbowing
them away from the black stone.

The most important well in Mecca is this well of Zem Zem in the
courtyard of the mosque. The water in it is slightly brackish but
is said to be delightful when one becomes accustomed to using it.
The well is eight feet wide and quite deep. According to Moslem
tradition one of the direct routes to heaven is through the bottom
of this well. The pilgrims from India, who take such superstitions
literally, frequently threw themselves into the well, making the
water undrinkable for days. In fact, so many people tried the short
cut to paradise that it became necessary to stretch a net over the
bottom to break their fall.

There is an ancient tradition among Mohammedans that the approach
of the day of resurrection will be indicated by the sun rising in
the west and by the appearance of a monster which will rise out of
the earth in the courtyard of the Masjid Al Haram. This beast is
to be sixty cubits in height, just twice as high as the Lord
commanded Noah to make the ark. It is to be a complex combination
of eleven different animals, having the head of a bull, the eyes
of a hog, the ears of an elephant, the horns of a stag, the neck
of a giraffe, the breast of a lion, the color of a tiger, the back
of a cat, the tail of a ram, the legs of a camel, and the voice of
an ass. She is to bring with her the rod of Moses and the seal of
Solomon. So swift will be this monster that none will escape. With
the rod of Moses she will smite all true believers on the cheek,
branding them with a mark which will indicate that they are of the
faithful. Unbelievers will be stamped with the seal of King Solomon.
It is also believed that this strange beast will speak Arabic.
After the appearance of this mammoth creature all mortals who have
inhabited the earth since the dawn of creation will be required to
cross a valley on a hair, from which the iniquitous will tumble
off into the fires of hell, while the pure in heart will cross
safely into paradise. There are many different versions of this
tradition which were believed in by the adherents of other religions
long before the time of Mohammed.

Among other signs believed by some to be indications of the approach
of the day of resurrection are a war with the Turks; the advancement
of the meanest to positions of dignity and power; the coming of
Antichrist from Khorasan, mounted on an ass and followed by seventy
thousand Jews; the return of Jesus, who certain Mohammedans believe
will embrace the Mohammedan religion, marry a wife, slay Antichrist,
and rule the earth in peace and security; and the bestowal of the
power of speech on all animals, birds, fishes, reptiles, and
inanimate things.

Until recently Mecca was, perhaps, the most evil and licentious
city in the world. “The holier the city, the wickeder its people,”
runs the Arab proverb. A block away from the Holy Kaaba stands the
slave-market, which was closed not long ago by Hussein. There were
in the city of Mecca until recently, and perhaps still are, many
women who are legally married and divorced almost monthly, and
sometimes semi-monthly. A pilgrim arriving at Mecca, before King
Hussein’s puritanical régime, could be legally married during the
time he was a resident and performing his religious rites. He could
then have his marriage legally dissolved when he left the city.
The people of Mecca do not share those fine primitive virtues and
simplicity of tastes which have made the Bedouins famous. Since
olden times those born there have been distinguished from other
Arabians by three scars on the cheek—a trade-mark of viciousness,
say visitors to Mecca. The language of the Meccans is the most
salacious to be found anywhere in the dissolute East. The city is
filled with unspeakable diseases and practices. Travelers have
described scenes occurring in the Great Mosque as licentious as
any reported to have occurred in the most dissolute days of ancient
times.

But to get back to our story of the capture of the holy cities by
the Arabs, the aged Grand Shereef supervised the attack on Mecca,
while Feisal and Ali were in command of the force directed against
Medina. The Grand Shereef was successful at Mecca. The forts on
the three hills overlooking that forbidden and sacred city were
garrisoned by the sultan’s most faithful Circassian mercenaries
and by picked Turkish troops. On the day of the attack the Arabs
swept through the gates and captured the main bazaar, the
residential section, the administration buildings, and the sacred
mosque of the Holy Kaaba. For a fortnight the battle raged around
the two smaller forts, which were finally taken. During all this
fighting the aged shereef remained in his palace directing
operations in spite of scores of Turkish three-inch shells that
riddled his residence.

The Turks might have been able to hang on for many months had it
not been for their own folly. The Ottoman seems to be a Mohammedan
in theory only, occasionally adhering to the ritual, and even less
frequently adhering to the spirit of the Koran. Heedless of the
deep-set religious feelings of their enemies and coreligionists,
they suddenly began to bombard the mosque of the Kaaba, the most
sacred shrine of all Islam. One shell actually struck the black
stone, burning a hole in the holy carpet and killing nine Arabs
who were kneeling in prayer. Hussein’s followers were so enraged
by this impious act that they swarmed over the walls of the great
fort and captured it after desperate hand-to-hand fighting with
knives and daggers.

Both Mecca and the near-by seaport of Jeddah were captured during
the first month’s fighting. Jeddah was taken in five days as a
result of the coöperation of five small British merchantmen under
Captain Boyle, a daring red-headed Irishman, who was second in
command to Sir Rosslyn Wemyss, then admiral of the Near Eastern
Fleet.

More than a thousand Turkish and German prisoners were taken at
Jeddah. The bombardment of this port of entry to the holy city of
Mecca nearly started a revolution in India. The eighty million
Mohammedans living in India are the most fanatical of all Islam in
many respects. They erroneously charged the British with having
bombarded one of their holy places. As a matter of fact, Jeddah,
being merely the port to Mecca, has never been regarded as a holy
city by the Arabs themselves and is the one city in the Hedjaz to
which unbelievers have always been admitted.

At Medina the Bedouins, under Shereefs Feisal and Ali, were less
successful. The tribesmen in northern Hedjaz, who had rallied round
the Shereefian flag, swept out of the desert mists early on the
same morning in June on which the attack was launched against
Mecca. Occupying all the palm-groves which extend for miles around
the outskirts, they drove the Turkish outposts from the gardens of
the Medina palaces, fabled for their sparkling fountains, apricot,
banana, and pomegranate orchards. The troops of the garrison
withdrew inside the city walls. There they knew they had the
additional protection afforded by the Tomb of Mohammed, the tomb
which causes Medina to be regarded as the second holiest city of
Islam. Although Feisal and Ali could have brought up cannon from
Jeddah and perhaps taken the city by storm after a bombardment,
Hussein refused to permit this for fear of causing the destruction
of the Prophet’s tomb, a catastrophe which would have incurred the
anger of every one of the two hundred and fifty million Mohammedans
in the world.

Medina is the city to which Mohammed made his hegira or flight from
Mecca in July, 622 a. d., to save himself from the daggers of
assassins hired by his religious enemies. All Mohammedans count
time not from the birth of Christ but from the date of that flight.
Mohammed was buried in Medina, and on one side of him rests his
favorite daughter, Fatima, and on the other side the second of the
great Arabian rulers, Calif Omar. But between the graves of Mohammed
and Omar a space was left, so the Moslem’s say, that Christ upon
His second coming and death may be buried by the side of the
Prophet. So Medina, in addition to being a city of considerable
commercial importance, is a great pilgrimage center.

Shortly after the war, the Turks, in order to facilitate the
movement of troops to quell possible uprisings in Arabia, but
ostensibly to make it easier for pilgrims to reach Medina from the
north, built a single-track railway line all the way down from
Damascus. One of the first acts that the attacking Bedouin hordes
committed when they approached Medina was to tear up several miles
of rails with their bare hands, in order to isolate the garrison.
After surrounding the town the Arabs sat down to await its
surrender; but the Turks, encouraged by their inactivity, slipped
out of the gates at dawn, surprised some of the Arabs who were
camping in the suburb of Awali, and set fire to all the houses.
Large numbers of women and children were shot down by machine-guns,
and scores of others were burned alive in their homes. This so
enraged the Bedouins and the thousands of Arab townsmen who came
out of Medina to join Feisal and Ali that they immediately assaulted
the great Turkish fort just outside the walls of the city. But the
Turks opened fire with their heavy artillery and mowed great gaps
in the tightly packed whirling mass of frenzied Arabians. Never
having encountered artillery fire before in their lives, the frenzy
soon turned to panic, and the mob fled to the shelter of a near-by
hill. Seeing this, the Turkish commander sent out a force of picked
men to cut them to pieces. Shereef Feisal saw the plight of his
men and dashed up on his horse, utterly regardless of the bursting
shrapnel and machine-gun fire from the fort which raked the
intervening open ground. The Bedouins whom he had brought up to
help him rescue the broken and panic-stricken forces that had made
the original attack on the fort held back, reluctant to face the
enemy fire that formed such a deadly barrage between them and their
comrades. But Feisal laughed and rode on alone. To give his
followers confidence he even made his horse walk across the open
space. Unwilling to be put to shame by their fearless commander,
the relieving force gave a wild desert cry and charged, the name
of Allah on the lips of every warrior. The two forces then combined
and made a second attempt to storm the fort. Their ammunition was
nearly exhausted. Night, which comes in Arabia with a suddenness
suggestive of an electrician switching off the sun’s light, dropped
down like a black curtain just in time to save them from
annihilation. On the morrow, Feisal and Ali called all the tribal
chieftains to a conference at their pavilion, and it was agreed
that for the present it was futile to continue the attack; so they
retired into the hills fifty miles to the south and camped astride
the pilgrim road to prevent any Turkish forces from attempting to
retake Mecca. The Turks at once repaired the railway line connecting
them with Damascus, drove the thirty thousand civilian Arabs living
in Medina out into the desert, brought down reinforcements from
Syria, and fortified the city to resist all future attacks. After
the war refugees from Medina were found all over the Turkish
Empire, in Jerusalem, Konia, Damascus, Aleppo, and Constantinople.

The Arabs, however, were still in undisputed possession of Mecca;
and with the possible exception of the capture of Jerusalem and,
later on, the combined capture of Damascus, Beyrouth, and Aleppo
by Allenby’s army and the Arabs, the fall of Mecca is sure to rank
in history as one of the greatest disasters ever suffered by the
descendants of Othman. To her control of the holy city of Mecca
Turkey largely owed her leadership of the Mohammedan peoples of
the world.

Then came a long pause. The Arabs were unable to go on with their
revolution because they had expended all their ammunition. Shereef
Hussein again appealed to the Allies, and the British responded.
At that critical moment young Lawrence appeared on the Arabian
stage.



  CHAPTER VI


  THE GATHERING OF THE DESERT TRIBES


Chafing under the red tape of army regulations, certain slight
differences had arisen between the chiefs at G.H.Q. and independent
young Lawrence. His aversion to saluting superiors, for instance,
and his general indifference to all traditional military formalities
did not exactly increase his popularity with some of the sterner
warriors of the old school. In the Arab uprising Lawrence saw an
avenue of escape from his Cairo strait-jacket. Ronald Storrs, then
Oriental secretary to the high commissioner of Egypt, was ordered
to make a trip down the Red Sea to Jeddah, with messages to Emir
Hussein, instigator of the Mecca revolt. Although he had played no
part in starting the Hedjaz revolution, Lawrence had long realized
the possibility of the Arabs’ helping prick the kaiser’s
imperialistic bubble; so he asked permission to take a fortnight’s
vacation, and he has been on that leave of absence ever since!

Some of his superiors at the Savoy Hotel in Cairo were delighted
at the prospect of getting rid of this altogether too obstreperous
upstart “shavetail” lieutenant, and his request was granted with
alacrity. But Lawrence, contrary to the custom of war-worn veterans
on leave, did not go sailing down the Nile to the races at
Alexandria, or up-stream to Luxor to while away his holiday at the
Winter Palace. Instead, he accompanied Ronald Storrs down the Red
Sea. On arrival at Jeddah, Lawrence succeeded in getting permission
from Grand Shereef Hussein to make a short camel journey inland to
the camp of Emir Feisal, third son of the Grand Shereef, who was
attempting to keep the fires of revolution alive. The Arab cause
looked hopeless. There were not enough bullets left to keep the
army in gazelle meat, and the troops were reduced to John the
Baptist’s melancholy desert fare of locusts and wild honey. After
exchanging the usual Oriental compliments over many sweetened cups
of Arabian coffee, the first question Lawrence asked Feisal was,
“When will your army reach Damascus?”

The question evidently nonplussed the emir, who gazed gloomily
through the tent-flap at the bedraggled remnants of his father’s
army. “In sh’Allah,” replied Feisal, stroking his beard. “There is
neither power nor might save in Allah, the high, the tremendous!
May He look with favor upon our cause. But I fear the gates of
Damascus are farther beyond our reach at present than the gates of
Paradise. Allah willing, our next step will be an attack on the
Turkish garrison at Medina, where we hope to deliver the tomb of
the Prophet from our enemies.”

A few days with Emir Feisal convinced Lawrence that it might be
possible to reorganize this rabble into an irregular force which
might be of assistance to the British army in Egypt and Sinai. So
absorbed did he become in working out this idea that when his two
weeks’ furlough came to an end he stayed on in Arabia without even
sending apologies to Cairo. From then onward Lawrence was the
moving spirit in the Arabian revolution.

When Lieutenant Lawrence arrived the situation was critical. The
Turks had rushed an army corps down from Syria to strengthen
Medina, and they had sent down mule and camel transport, armored
cars, aëroplanes, cavalry, and more artillery with which to stamp
out the revolution. An expeditionary force from Medina was already
on its way south, to recover Mecca and hang the rebel leaders
higher than Haman. To be sure, this advancing army had two hundred
and fifty miles of desert to cross, but they would have crossed it
had not strange events occurred causing them hurriedly to revise
their plans. As the Arab chroniclers recount: “The hosts of Othman,
the minions of the usurper califs, advanced defiantly. But God was
not with them! Praise be to Allah, the protector of all those who
trust in him!”

Lawrence had no definite plan but the thought was in his mind to
devise a way of harassing the Turk and attracting the attention of
a portion of the Ottoman forces opposing the British to the north
in Sinai. He had startled Feisal with the remark that he believed
his troops would be in Damascus within two years. “If Allah wills,”
had replied the emir with a dubious smile, as he stroked his beard
and gazed at his riffraff army lolling in the shade of the
date-palms. But something in Lawrence’s quiet manner impressed him
with confidence, and he accepted the offer to coöperation. To the
young archæologist turned soldier the thought of participating in
a desert war appealed greatly. Here he saw an opportunity not only
of beating the Germans but of testing the theories of the great
military experts whose books had so fascinated him.

Once he had made up his mind to help the Arabs, Lawrence was
immediately transformed from a scholarly student of the metaphysical
and philosophical side of war to a student of the stern realities
of war. To reach Mecca he thought the Turkish expedition would
first attempt to drive Feisal’s force out of the hills in order to
capture Rabegh, the tiny but strategically important Red Sea port
one hundred miles north of Jeddah. Here, behind coral-reefs, under
a picturesque grove of palm-trees, were excellent wells. Lawrence’s
first plan was to supply the Bedouin irregulars in the hills
between Medina and Rabegh with modern rifles and plenty of
ammunition, in the hope that they would be able to hold up the
advancing Turks in the narrow defiles, until a regular army of Arab
townsmen, more amenable to discipline, could be whipped into shape.
Next, he planned to intrench them outside Rabegh, where they could
coöperate with the British fleet and give battle to the enemy when
the latter finally broke through the hills. The Turks, however,
upset this scheme with alarming speed. Much sooner than anticipated,
and without warning, they pushed straight through the hills as
though the Bedouin irregulars were not there. The situation now
was even more precarious than when Lawrence first arrived. It
seemed to the Arabs as though “the Maker of the Sun and Moon and
Stars were guiding the destiny of the enemy.”

It was at this stage in the campaign that Lawrence decided to
disregard Foch’s dictum, that the object of modern war is to locate
the enemy army and annihilate it. He came to the conclusion that
to win a war against the Turks, or any other well-trained troops
in the desert, it would be better to imitate the tactics of Hannibal
and other military leaders of pre-Napoleonic wars. He realized that
in a stand-up fight against the better disciplined Turks the Arabs
would be doomed. On the other hand, he figured that if Hussein’s
followers confined themselves exclusively to the hit-and-run type
of guerrilla warfare, to which they were so thoroughly accustomed,
the Turks would be helpless to retaliate. The failure of his first
plan opened Lawrence’s eyes, and the situation as he now saw it
resolved itself to this:

Shereef Hussein’s followers had captured Mecca, the most important
city of the Hedjaz. They had also taken Taif and Jeddah, and had
swept the hated Turk from the whole of their country, with the
exception of the city of Medina and the fortified posts protecting
the Hedjaz Railway, connecting Medina with Damascus. In other
words, the Arabs were already in possession of all of their country
with the exception of a very small part. Furthermore, the Turkish
garrisons at Medina and along the Hedjaz Railway could not move
easily from their base without the consent of the Arabs, for they
were surrounded by that mysterious element to which they were not
accustomed, the unknown and unfathomable desert. An army corps of
Turkish infantry would be as helpless in the desert as they would
be at sea. On the other hand, the Arabs were at home among the
shifting dunes. When a Bedouin tribe starts off on a raid, each
man and his camel are a separate unit, each desert warrior as
independent as a war-ship at sea; there are no lines of
communication. Mounted on his racing-camel, a Bedouin can cruise
across the desert sands for weeks without returning to his base of
supplies. The dictum of a Bedouin strategist is quite contradictory
to the dictum of Marshal Foch. His theory is not to hunt out his
enemy and fight it out to the finish, but to stalk his prey as a
hunter stalks his game. At an unguarded moment he sweeps down upon
him, accomplishes his mission, and then, before his opponent has
time to collect his wits, he vanishes, swallowed up by the trackless
sands. This was the game Lawrence decided to play for all it might
be worth.

When he came to this decision, he was lying in his tent stricken
with a fever, and the Turkish expeditionary force was bearing
rapidly down upon Rabegh. Instead of strengthening the system of
trenches around the port and awaiting them, Lawrence and Feisal
started north, leaving Shereef Hussein’s youngest son Zeid with a
small band of Bedouins to harass the enemy. This left Jeddah and
Mecca practically unprotected and gave the Turkish army a clear
right of way.

What was Lawrence’s scheme?

To the north were two small ports, Yenbo and El Wejh. These were
still held by the Turks as a protection for the Hedjaz Railway,
the life-cord both of the Medina garrison and of the Turkish army
marching south on Mecca. His plan was to capture both of these
important posts, threaten the railway, and compel the enemy
expeditionary force to return to Medina or run the risk of being
cut off in the desert without supplies. The more Lawrence thought
about this the more he became convinced that if the Turkish
expedition could be drawn back to Medina the Arab war would be won;
at any rate, won so far as the liberation of the Hedjaz was
concerned. He estimated that there were about one hundred and fifty
thousand square miles of territory in the country and that if the
Turks wanted completely to subjugate it and to stamp out all
revolution they would need at least half a million soldiers. Since
they had a maximum of only one hundred thousand troops for the
purpose, Lawrence concluded that if he could succeed in welding
the scattered inhabitants of the desert into an army he might be
able not only to drive the Turks from Holy Arabia but to invade
Syria as well. To do this he must convince them that they should
give up cutting each other’s throats over century-old tribal
disputes. He must convince them that, instead, they must risk their
lives for the freedom of their country and that they should die
willingly for the liberation of the whole Arab world from Ottoman
oppression.

The General Staff at headquarters in Cairo raised no objection to
Lawrence’s remaining in Arabia when he failed to return at the end
of his furlough. General Sir Gilbert Clayton, head of the
Intelligence Corps, knew that he could speak the language, that he
understood the people, and, indeed, that he was something of a
Bedouin at heart himself. G. H. Q. merely hoped that he might
encourage the Arabs a little and help keep the rebellion alive.
They gave him complete freedom of action in order that he might
make the most of any opportunities that might arise. That was in
October, 1916, and by October, 1918, this youngster, not yet out
of his twenties, had raised a formidable vaporous irregular army
and had led it through the gates of Damascus.

It was by the process of accretion that Lawrence and Feisal built
up their army. With only two companions the former started out
across the desert. He stopped at every nomad encampment, and,
calling the head men together, in faultless classic Arabic he
explained his mission. The fact that Lawrence was visiting them in
the name of Sidi Feisal, the most beloved of Shereef Hussein’s
sons, insured him against personal harm, in spite of the fact that
he was a Christian trespassing on sacred ground. At nightfall,
after prayers, he would sit by the camp-fires before the black
tents, discussing with his Bedouin hosts the past greatness of
Arabia and her present condition of servitude, until he had every
member of the tribe worked up to a high pitch of frenzy. Over
roasted goat killed in his honor, and cups of sweetened tea, in
phrases more eloquent than the words of the tribal wise men, he
would discuss with them the possibility of driving out the Turks.
He convinced them that they would be flying in the face of Allah
if they hesitated longer, since their ancient enemy was at the
moment too busy fighting the British, French, Italians, and Russians
to offer serious resistance to an Arab uprising. That he succeeded
in persuading the Bedouins to renounce their blood-feuds and unite
against their common enemy was demonstrated by the fact that within
six months he had united nearly all of the tribes of the Hedjaz
into a loose alliance.

The first three tribes won over were the Harb, who inhabit the
desert between Medina and Mecca; the Juheina, who dwell in the
region between the Red Sea coast and Medina; and the people of the
Billi tribe, who roam the country east of El Wejh. The first of
these includes over two hundred thousand people and is one of the
largest tribes in all Arabia.

Throughout the entire first phase of the desert campaign the Arabs
were given invaluable assistance by the British navy. While Lawrence
trekked north through the interior encouraging and supervising the
gathering of the clans, Feisal left the Mecca road undefended and
started up the coast accompanied by every man available, except
the few snipers who remained with Shereef Zeid. By the time Feisal
had advanced within striking distance of Yenbo, the first port
north of Rabegh, Lawrence had sent several thousand more tribesmen
to his support. The Turkish garrison evacuated before the Arabs
arrived, the guns of the British war-ships causing them to take to
their heels. The entry into Yenbo was splendid and barbaric. Emir
Feisal, as commander-in-chief of the Arabian army, rode in front,
dressed in robes as white as the snows of Lebanon. On his right
rode another shereef, garbed in dark red, his head-cloth, tunic,
and cloak dyed with henna. On Feisal’s left rode “Shereef” Lawrence,
in pure white robes, looking like the reincarnation of a prophet
of old. Behind them were Bedouins carrying three large banners of
purple silk, topped with gold spikes, and followed by a minstrel
twanging a lute and three drummers playing a weird march. After
them came a bouncing, billowy mass of thousands of wild sons of
Ishmael, on camels, all members of Feisal’s and Lawrence’s
body-guard. They were packed together in a dense throng as they
passed down the corridor of palm-trees, under the minarets of the
mosque. The riders were wearing robes of every color, and from
their saddles hung gay trappings and rich brocades. It was indeed
a resplendent cavalcade. All were singing at the tops of their
nasal voices, improvising verses descriptive of the virtues of Emir
Feisal and his fair-haired “grand vizier.”

From Yenbo they at once pushed on north along the coast, for
another two hundred miles toward El Wejh, which was held by a
thousand Turkish troops. The name of this port recalls to mind
another expedition. About 24  b. c. Augustus Cæsar sent
Allius Gallus to Arabia with eleven thousand of the picked soldiers
of Rome. After wandering for six months through the thirst-stricken
land they finally gave up their attempt to reach the frankincense
country, and when they sailed back to Egypt from this same port of
El Wejh there was but a sorry remnant left. They had learned to
their grief what Lawrence already knew, that an army in Arabia must
be able to endure much and live on little. By now Lawrence and
Feisal had collected ten thousand men, and this force was divided
into nine sections. They converged at the village of Um Lejj, about
half-way. There they received fresh supplies from the British
war-ships, with whom perfect liaison was maintained throughout the
entire coastal operations. From Um Lejj on the north, one hundred
and twenty miles of waterless desert lay before the Arab army. So
barren was this region that there were not even thorns on which
the camels might subsist. But an armed merchantman of the Indian
merchant marine followed up the coast, ran the risk of ripping wide
her hull on hidden coral reefs, and put into an uncharted bay with
a small quantity of water for the mules but none for the camels.
Hundreds of the latter were lost, but the army reached the hills
overlooking El Wejh on January 25, 1917, without the loss of a
single man from hunger or thirst.

El Wejh stands at the southwestern corner of a small coraline
plateau, bounded on the west by the sea, on the south by a dry
wadi, and on the east by an inland plain. The British war-ships
bombarded the Turks out of their main fortress by firing from
fourteen thousand yards, which enabled them to keep far outside
the range of the Turkish guns. After shelling them for a few hours,
a landing-party of Arabs, who had been carried up by sea for the
purpose, went ashore and attacked the demoralized garrison. At the
same time, Lawrence and his men swept in from the desert and took
a hand both in the street fighting and the looting. True to
tradition, Lawrence’s Bedouins made off with every movable object
in El Wejh.

Admiral Sir Rosslyn Wemyss directed the sea attack in person. To
use the Arab phrase, Admiral Wemyss was the “father and mother” of
the Arabian revolution during its early stages. Much of the credit
for the early successes of the Arabs should go to him. Whenever
Lawrence wanted to stage a cinema show, as he described
demonstrations made to impress the rather restive Arabs, who were
too much inclined to revert to their old habit of fighting among
themselves, he would simply notify the admiral, who would steam
down from Suez in his huge flag-ship, the _Euryalus,_ and engage
in target-practice with his nine-inch guns along the coast within
sight of the Shereefian army. On two occasions the admiral anchored
the _Euryalus_ in Jeddah Harbor at critical moments, ostensibly to
present his compliments to the Grand Shereef. There is no doubt
that the mammoth size of the admiral’s flag-ship was largely
responsible for the impression which the aged monarch gained of
Britain’s power.

“She is the great sea in which I, the fish, swim,” he remarked on
one occasion. “And the larger the sea the fatter the fish!”



  CHAPTER VII


  THE BATTLE AT THE WELLS OF ABU EL LISSAL


Simultaneously with Feisal’s attack on the small Red Sea ports of
Yenbo and El Wejh, his brother Abdulla appeared out of the desert
several miles to the east, near Medina. He was accompanied by a
riding-party mounted on she racing-camels. These raiders wiped out
a few enemy patrols, blew up several sections of track, and left
a formal letter tacked, in full view, on one of the sleepers, and
addressed to the Turkish commander-in-chief, describing in redundant
and lurid detail what his fate would be if he lingered longer in
Arabia.

The Turkish forces advancing on Mecca received news of the fall of
Yenbo and El Wejh, more than a hundred miles to the northwest of
them, and of Shereef Abdulla’s raids a hundred miles to the
northeast, at almost the same moment. They were amazed and
bewildered, for a few days previously the Arab army had been
sitting in front of them at Rabegh.

Thanks to the sniping of Emir Zeid’s handful of followers by day
and to small raids by night, the Turks had been tricked into
thinking the main Hedjaz army still there, but now there appeared
to be Arab armies on all sides of them. The relentless rays of the
sun, beating down with blistering ferocity on the parched region
where they encamped, not only increased their thirst but stimulated
their imagination as well. To their feverish, sunken eyes, every
mirage now seemed to be a cloud of Bedouin horsemen. Each hour
brought camel couriers with news of raids on El Ula, Medain Saleh,
and other stations north of Medina and of the capture of two more
of their Red Sea garrisons at Dhaba and Moweilah. Thoroughly
frightened by the news of these unexpected reverses, as well as by
the rumors of fictitious Arab victories circulated purposely among
them by Lawrence’s secret agents, the Turks, panic-stricken, fled
back to defend their base at Medina and to defend the railway,
which was their sole line of communication with Syria and Turkey.

In the north of Holy Arabia, near the head of the Gulf of Akaba,
the Turks had another garrison far more important than any as yet
taken in the campaign except the garrisons at Mecca and Jeddah.
Before Feisal’s followers could hope to sweep their ancient enemy
out of all the Hedjaz, excepting Medina, this important stronghold
at the head of the gulf must be accounted for. This accomplished,
Lawrence had in mind a far bolder and vaster plan which he hoped
to execute.

Of all the strategic places along the west coast of Arabia north
of Aden, the most important from a military standpoint is the
ancient seaport of Akaba, once the chief naval base of King
Solomon’s fleet, and also one of the first places where the Prophet
Mohammed preached and made his headquarters. For any army attempting
to invade Egypt or strike at the Suez Canal from the east, Akaba
must be the left flank, as it must be the right flank for any army
setting out from Egypt to invade Palestine and Syria. From the
beginning of the war the Turks had maintained a large garrison
there, both because they intended to wrest Egypt from the British,
and because it was essential to the security of the Hedjaz Railway.

It was Lawrence’s intention to capture Akaba and make it the base
for an Arab invasion of Syria! This was a truly ambitious and
portentous plan.

On June 18, 1917, with only eight hundred Bedouins of the Toweiha
tribe, two hundred of the Sherart, and ninety of the Kawachiba, he
set out from El Wejh for the head of the Gulf of Akaba, three
hundred miles farther north. This force was headed by Shereef
Nasir, a remote descendant of Mohammed and one of Feisal’s ablest
lieutenants. As usual, Lawrence went along to advise the Arab
commander; he always made it a point to act through one of the
native leaders, and much of his success may be attributed to his
tact in making the Arabs believe that they were conducting the
campaign themselves.

The advance on Akaba is an illustration of how ably Lawrence
handled Feisal’s army, in spite of his complete lack of military
training and experience. In order to outwit the Turkish commander
at Medina he led a flying column nearly one thousand miles to the
north of El Wejh; but instead of going right up the coast toward
Akaba, he led them far into the interior, across the Hedjaz Railway
not far from Medina, where they blew up several miles of track on
the way, then through the Wadi Sirhan, famous for its venomous
reptiles, where some of his men died of snake-bite, then across
the territory of the Howeitat tribe east of the Dead Sea, and still
on, north into the land of Moab. He even led a party of picked men
through the Turkish lines by night, dynamited a train near Amman
(the ancient Greek city of Philadelphia), blew up a bridge near
Deraa, the most important railway junction just south of Damascus,
and mined another several hundred miles behind the Turkish
front-line trenches, near the Syrian industrial city of Homs.

It was possible for Lawrence to conduct raids on such a grand scale
only because of the extra ordinary mobility of his forces. With
his camel corps he could cruise across the desert for six weeks
without returning to his supply base. As long as the members of
his party kept to the desert and out of sight of the Turkish
fortified posts along the frontiers of Palestine and Syria, they
were as safe as though they were on another planet. When they saw
an opportunity to dash in and make a surprise attack, they would
do so, and then dash back into the desert where the Turks dared
not follow because they neither had the camels, the intimate
knowledge of the desert, nor the phenomenal powers of endurance
which the Bedouins possessed. During a six weeks’ expedition,
Lawrence’s followers would live on nothing but unleavened bread.
Each man carried a half-sack of flour weighing forty-five pounds,
enough to enable him to trek two thousand miles without obtaining
fresh supplies. They could get along comfortably on a mouthful of
water a day when on the march, but wells were rarely more than two
or three days’ march apart, so that they seldom suffered from
thirst.

For these expeditions, far to the north and within territory
occupied by the Turks, Lawrence divided his men into several
different raiding-parties, in order to confuse and bewilder the
enemy. After annoying them in the hills of Moab, to the east of
Jericho, and then a day or two later away up around Damascus, he
swept south again. It is sixty miles from Akaba to the Hedjaz
Railway; and in order to prevent the Turks from guessing that Akaba
was his real objective, he made a feint against Maan, the most
important fortified town on the railway between Medina and the Dead
Sea. At the same time, seventeen miles southwest of Maan, he
swooped down upon Fuweilah station and wiped out its garrison. When
news of this reached the Turks at Maan they despatched one of their
crack mounted regiments in pursuit, but when the regiment reached
the station only the vultures were found in possession; Lawrence
and his raiders had disappeared into the blue again and, so far as
the Turks knew, had been swallowed up by the desert. But, lest they
should be forgotten, on the evening of the following day they
reappeared out of the mist many miles distant. There they merrily
planted more mines, demolished a mile of track, and destroyed a
relief train. The heat during these July days was intense. In
describing it, Lawrence remarked that the burning ground seared
the skin from the forearms of the snipers, and the camels went as
lame as the men did, with agony from the sunburned flints.

By this time Lawrence and Shereef Nasir had been joined by the Beni
Atiyeh tribe, who supplied them with four thousand fresh fighting
men, and also by the Abu Tayi section of the Howeitat tribe, made
up of some of the finest warriors in Arabia, under the leadership
of Auda, a veritable human tiger who was Lawrence’s intimate
companion from then onward.

The pursuing Turkish column decided to spend the night in the
bottom of a valley near some wells at Abu el Lissal, fourteen miles
from Maan, where I camped with Lawrence and Feisal some months
later. Lawrence, in the meantime, left his column and galloped off
across the desert, to see if he could locate the Turkish battalion.
As soon as he found it he hurried back for his men, brought them
on to the heights around Abu el Lissal, and by dawn had the Turks
completely surrounded.

For twelve hours the Arabs sniped at the Turks from their positions
on the hills around the wells, picking off many of them. The
sultan’s forces were indeed in a tight corner, but Lawrence knew
full well that if they were under capable and daring leaders they
could easily fight their way out through his thin line of Bedouins.
The Turk commander, however, lacked the necessary courage. So at
sunset Auda Abu Tayi, with fifty of his fellow-tribesmen, crept up
to within three hundred yards of the Turks and after a moment’s
rest boldly pushed out from under cover and galloped straight into
the enemy camp. So surprised were the Turks by this audacity that
when the old Bedouin chieftain crashed into their midst their ranks
broke, but not before bullets had smashed Auda Abu Tayi’s
field-glasses, pierced his revolver-holster, nicked the sword he
was holding in his hand, and killed two horses under him. In spite
of these incidents the old Arab was delighted and maintained
afterward that it was the best scrap he had had since Ramadan.

Lawrence, who was watching from the hill on the opposite side of
the basin, dashed down the slope as fast as his dromedary could
carry him and charged into the midst of the now demoralized Turks,
followed by four hundred other Bedouins on camels. For twenty
minutes a thousand Turks and Arabs were mixed together in a wild,
frenzied mass, all shooting madly. In the charge Lawrence
accidentally shot his own camel through the head with his automatic;
it dropped dead, and he was hurled from his saddle and lay stunned
in front of it, while his followers charged right over him. Had he
not been thrown directly in front of his mount he would have been
trampled to death by the onrushing camels.

The Turks made their fatal error in scattering, just as Lawrence
had surmised they would do, and the battle ended in massacre.
Although many escaped in the darkness, the Arabs killed and captured
more than the total number of their own force. The next morning
more than three hundred dead were counted around the water-hole.
Most of the prisoners taken were rounded up by Shereef Nasir and
Lawrence, because the rest of the Bedouins dashed off to the
Turkish tents, as usual thinking of nothing but loot. The desire
to loot is an all-consuming passion with the Bedouins and is not
considered a form of stealing by them but is listed among the
cardinal virtues.

So bitter were the Arabs that they wanted to kill their prisoners
in retaliation for the atrocities the Turks had been committing
against their women and children. They were also aching to avenge
the death of Sheik Belgawiya of Kerak, one of their leaders, whom
the Turks had harnessed between four mules and torn apart limb from
limb. The sheik’s tragic death had been the climax of a series of
executions by torture which had so enraged the Arabs that they
swore never to give quarter to another Turk. But Lawrence had other
ideas. He wanted the rumor spread far and wide through the Turkish
army that the Arabs were not only accepting prisoners but were
treating them well, and so he finally prevailed upon his revengeful
followers to treat these captives with special consideration. Just
as he had hoped, this propaganda brought immediate results, and in
the days following the battle of Abu el Lissal groups were
constantly coming in holding their weapons above their heads and
crying “Moslem! Moslem!” in imitation of the German cry of
“Kamerad.”



  CHAPTER VIII


  THE CAPTURE OF KING SOLOMON’S ANCIENT SEAPORT


Lawrence had left El Wejh, hundreds of miles to the south, with
but two months’ rations. After giving a part of his supplies to
the captured Turks, the food situation became critical. Nevertheless
the half-starved Arab army, led by this youngster, continued its
march through the jagged, barren mountains that bite the North
Arabian sky. The news of their victories traveled ahead of them,
and when Lawrence arrived at Gueirra, a Turkish post in King
Solomon’s Mountains, twenty-five miles from Akaba, at the entrance
to an extremely narrow pass known as the Wadi Ithm, the Gueirra
garrison came out and laid down their arms without firing a shot.
He then proceeded to march his Bedouins on, down the Wadi Ithm to
Kethura, another outpost guarding the only land approach to Akaba.
There Lawrence charged another garrison and captured several
hundred more men. Trekking through the gorge they came to an
ancient well at Khadra, where two thousand years before the Romans
had constructed a stone dam across the valley, the remains of which
can still be seen. The Turks had massed their heavy artillery
behind that ruined wall. It constituted the outermost defense of
Akaba. By the time the Shereefian army arrived in front of this
final barricade the Bedouins of the Amran Darausha and Neiwat
tribes, who lived in the desert near Akaba, had heard of the great
victories at Fuweilah and Abu el Lissal and were scampering across
the lava mountains by the hundreds to join the advancing Arab
forces.

The overwhelming defeat of the Turkish battalion at Abu el Lissal
was really the first phase of the battle of Akaba. The second
consisted in the spectacular manœuver when Lawrence accomplished
what the Turks thought impossible and succeeded in leading his
scraggly, undisciplined horde of Bedouins through the precipitous
King Solomon Mountains, over the old Roman wall, right past the
bewildered Turkish artillerymen, and down into Akaba on the morning
of July 6, 1917. But to save the Akaba garrison from massacre
Lawrence and Nasir had to labor with their fierce followers from
sunset to dawn. They would not have succeeded then, had not Nasir
walked down the valley into No-Mans’-Land and sat on a rock to make
his men quit firing.

Akaba is picturesquely located at the southern end of the wide Wadi
Araba, perhaps the driest and most desolate valley in the world,
which runs down from the Dead Sea to the Gulf of Akaba. Up this
same wadi Moses and the Israelites are believed to have made their
way toward the Promised Land, and down this valley rode Mohammed,
Ali, Abu Bekr, and Omar. It was here that Mohammed preached many
of his first sermons. Beyond a narrow semicircle of date-palms
which fringe the shore, lie the blue waters of the now deserted
gulf where Solomon’s fleets, Phenician galleys, and Roman triremes
rode at anchor. Behind Akaba loom jagged, volcanic, arid mountains.
Like most of the smaller towns of the Near East the place itself
is a chaotic jumble of mud huts. Awnings cover the narrow streets,
and the stalls in the bazaar are filled with brocades, shabby
prayer-rugs, cones of cane-sugar swarming with flies, piles of
dates, and dishes of glistening brass and hammered copper.

The Turks and Germans were so paralyzed and bewildered by the
unexpected achievement of the Arabs in getting across the mountains
and through the passes that they surrendered without further ado.
Immediately after the entrance into Akaba a German officer stepped
up and saluted Lawrence. He spoke neither Turkish nor Arabic and
evidently did not even know there was a revolution in progress.

“What is all this about? What is all this about? Who are these
men?” he shouted excitedly.

“They belong to the army of King Hussein”—the Grand Shereef had by
this time proclaimed himself king—“who is in revolt against the
Turks,” replied Lawrence.

“Who is King Hussein?” asked the German.

“Emir of Mecca and ruler of this part of Arabia, was the reply.

“Ach Himmel! And what am I?” added the German officer in English.

“You are a prisoner.”

“Will they take me to Mecca?”

“No, to Egypt.”

“Is sugar very high over there?”

“Very cheap.”

“Good.” And he marched off, happy to be out of the war, and happier
still to be heading for a place where he could have plenty of
sugar.

This time the plans of Emir Feisal’s youthful British adviser went
through true to form. From now on the Turks were kept on the
defensive. They were obliged to weaken their army by splitting it
into two parts; one half remained in Medina, and the other defended
the pilgrimage railway. If he had wanted to do so Lawrence could
have dynamited the railway in so many places that the Turks would
have been completely cut off at Medina; then, by bringing up a few
long-range naval guns from the Gulf of Akaba, he could have blown
Medina off the map and compelled the garrison to surrender. But he
had an excellent reason for not attempting this, as we shall soon
see. In his mind he had worked out a far finer and more ambitious
scheme, the successful carrying out of which demanded that the
Turks should be inveigled into sending down more reinforcements to
Medina, and as many guns, camels, mules, armored cars, aëroplanes,
and other war materials as they could be compelled to part with
from their other fronts. He hoped they would keep a huge garrison
there until the end of the war, which would mean so many less Turks
opposing the British armies in Palestine and Mesopotamia; and the
supply-trains which would necessarily have to be sent down from
Syria might be made a constant source of supply for the Arabs. If
Medina were captured and the Turks all driven north, it would
deprive Lawrence of this magnificent opportunity of maintaining
his army on Turkish supplies. That was far more to his advantage
than occupying Medina.

After the capture of Akaba, Lawrence and his men lived for ten days
on unripe dates and on the meat of camels which had been killed in
the battle of Abu el Lissal. They were compelled to kill their own
riding-camels at the rate of two a day to save themselves and their
hundreds of prisoners. Then in order to keep his army from starving,
Lawrence jumped on his racing-camel and rode her continuously for
twenty-two hours across the uninhabited mountains and desert
valleys of the Sinai Peninsula. Completely worn out after this
record ride, which came at the end of two months’ continuous
fighting and a thousand miles of trekking across one of the most
barren parts of the earth and living on soggy unleavened bread and
dates and without having a bath for more than a month, he turned
his camel over to an M.P. at one of the street corners in Port
Tewfik, Suez, walked a little unsteadily into the Sinai Hotel, and
ordered a bath. For three hours he remained in the tub with a
procession of Berberine boys serving him cool drinks. That day, he
declares, was the nearest approach to the Mohammedan idea of
paradise that he ever expects to experience. From Suez he went on
to Ismailia, the midway station on the canal.

Lawrence’s arrival in Arabia had been unheralded; even G.H.Q. in
Cairo were ignorant as to his movements. His exploits first became
known when he met General Allenby at Ismailia on the arrival of
this new leader who had just been assigned to take over command of
the Egyptian Expeditionary Forces.

The incident was dramatic in its simplicity. Allenby had been sent
out from London to succeed Sir Archibald Murray as commander-in-chief.
He had just landed and was at the railway station in Ismailia
walking up and down the platform with Admiral Wemyss. Lawrence,
standing near-by in Arab garb, saw the important-looking general
with the admiral.

“Who’s that?” he asked of Wemyss’s flag-lieutenant.

“Allenby,” was the reply.

“What’s he doing here?” queried Lawrence.

“He has come out to take Murray’s place.” Lawrence was frightfully
pleased.

A few minutes later Lawrence had an opportunity to report to
Admiral Wemyss, who had been the godfather of the Arab “show.” He
told him that Akaba had been taken but that his men were badly in
need of food. The admiral immediately promised to send ships, and
a moment later he told Allenby what Lawrence had said. The general
sent for him at once. The station was crowded with staff-officers
and a throng of vociferous natives who were welcoming Allenby, when
out of the mob stepped this bare-footed, fair-faced boy in Bedouin
garb.

“What news have you brought,” asked Allenby.

In even, low tones, without any more expression on his face than
if he were conveying compliments from the Grand Shereef, Lawrence
reported that the Arabs had captured the ancient seaport at the
head of the Gulf of Akaba. He gave all the credit for the victory
to the Arabs, making no reference to the part he himself had played
in the affair. He conveyed the impression that he was acting as a
courier, although, as a matter of fact, the capture of that
important point was due entirely to his own leadership and
strategical genius.

The general was immensely pleased, because Akaba was the most
important point on his right flank and the principal Turkish base
on the western coast of the Arabian Peninsula.

Then when Lawrence explained in more detail the plight of the Arab
troops Admiral Wemyss promised to send a vessel filled with food
to Akaba. But Sir Rosslyn went even beyond that and acted in a way
that will immortalize him in Arabian history. The Arabs were afraid
lest the Turks should return with reinforcements and capture Akaba;
so the admiral moved his office, all his personal effects, and his
staff ashore to a hotel in Ismailia, and sent his flag-ship round
Sinai to Akaba for a whole month to bolster up the morale of the
Arabs. The presence of this huge floating fortress encouraged the
Bedouins and convinced them that they were not going to be obliged
to play a lone hand against the Turkish Empire. The British
flag-ship was more tangible evidence of the strength of Britain
than these desert nomads had ever seen before.

Admiral Wemyss also lent Lawrence and his Arabs twenty machine-guns
from his ships and several naval guns. The latter are still
“somewhere” in Arabia, probably mounted on the roof of Auda Abu
Tayi’s mud palace. Several months after the termination of the war
Lawrence received a letter from the Admiralty asking him kindly to
return one of their long-range guns which had been taken ashore
for the Arab show. He replied that he was very sorry but that he
had “mislaid it.”

As a result of Lawrence’s victory at Akaba and his visit to Egypt,
the British decided to back the Arabs to the limit in their campaign
to win complete independence. The young archæologist was sent back
to Akaba with unlimited resources, and within a few months he had
conducted the campaign in such a brilliant manner that he was
raised in rank from lieutenant to lieutenant-colonel, despite the
fact that he hardly knew the difference between “right incline”
and “present arms.”

The Germans and Turks were not long in finding out that there was
a mysterious power giving inspiration to the Arabs. Through their
spies they discovered that Lawrence was the guiding spirit of the
whole Arabian revolution. They offered rewards up to fifty thousand
pounds for his capture dead or alive. But the Bedouins would not
have betrayed their leader for all the gold in the fabled mines of
Solomon.

The fall of Akaba, next to the capture of the holy city of Mecca,
was the most significant event of the Arabian revolution, because
it unified the Arabs whom Lawrence had already won over to the
cause of the revolution, and gave them confidence in themselves.

After winning his victory Lawrence was shrewd enough to take full
advantage of it. Although his own strategy and personal bravery
had played an all-important part in the success of these operations,
he was astute enough to give all the credit to the principal Arab
leaders under him, such as Auda Abu Tayi and Shereef Nasir. Like
children, these doughty old warriors were not at all reticent about
accepting it, and, of course, from then on they were Lawrence’s
sworn friends.

Anxious to make the most of this initial success, Lawrence sent
couriers to all the tribes of the desert, although news of the
battle of Abu el Lissal and the advance on Akaba seemed to travel
as though flashed about Arabia by radio. He realized the tremendous
importance of propaganda and sent some of his cleverest Arab
lieutenants through the enemy lines to spread the news of the fall
of Akaba far and wide to the remote corners of the Turkish Empire.

So it was that this young Briton, just down from Oxford, away in
a long-forgotten corner of the earth, captured the ancient seaport
of Solomon where a battle had probably not been fought for a
thousand years and more, thereby winning the second important
victory of the war in the Land of the Arabian Nights and paving
the way for an invasion of Syria. From a mere local squabble,
Lawrence’s victory at Akaba transformed the Hedjaz revolt into a
campaign of far-reaching importance directed against the heart of
the Turkish Empire; and from that day his undisciplined rabble of
swarthy desert brigands became the right wing of Allenby’s army,
and from then on this second lieutenant played the rôle of a
lieutenant-general.



  CHAPTER IX


  ACROSS THE RED SEA TO JOIN LAWRENCE AND FEISAL


Emir Feisal and Colonel Lawrence had got as far as Akaba with their
campaign when Mr. Chase and I arrived from the Palestine front with
our battery of cameras. It was by no means an easy matter even to
get to the Arab base-camp and our adventures in doing so may even
justify another digression from the story of Lawrence and his
associates, in order to better illustrate how remote this campaign
really was from the rest of the World War. Shortly after I had met
Lawrence in Jerusalem, while lunching with General Allenby and the
Duke of Connaught, the name of the archæologist turned soldier came
up during the conversation. Out of curiosity I asked the
commander-in-chief why the Arabian campaign and Lawrence’s exploits
had been kept such a secret. He replied that it had been considered
advisable to say as little as possible, because they hoped that
large numbers of the conscript Arabs fighting in the Turkish army
might desert and join Shereef Hussein in his fight for Arabian
independence. They were afraid lest the Arabs of Syria, Palestine,
and Mesopotamia whom the Turks had conscripted should get the
mistaken idea that the Allies were inspiring the Hedjaz revolt and
hence erroneously conclude that it was not a patriotic rebellion.
For this reason the Allies were anxious that the campaign should
appear in its true light as an independent Arabian movement. But
so successful had been Lawrence’s efforts that Allenby said it was
no longer quite so necessary to maintain such strict secrecy,
adding that if I happened to be interested in what was going on in
Arabia he would be glad to have me join King Hussein’s army, and
afterward tell the world a little of what the Arabs had done toward
helping to win the Great War.

This was exactly what I had often thought of asking permission to
do; but I had been warned that because of the secrecy with which
the campaign was being conducted there was not the slightest chance
of receiving the commander-in-chief’s consent. I of course lost no
time in accepting and jumped at this opportunity of going on what
I was sure would be an adventure of a lifetime.

We were told that it would be practically impossible to make the
journey overland from Palestine to Arabia, or at any rate that it
could only be done by going through the Turkish lines in disguise.
We had neither the time nor the inclination nor the necessary
knowledge of the country and the language to attempt this; so,
accompanied by Mr. Chase, my artist colleague, I returned to Egypt
to consult the heads of the Arab Bureau in Cairo. There we were
told:

“You can get as far as Akaba in a cargo boat, but next to Timbuctoo
it is the most out-of-the-way place in the world. You will find no
hotel porters at the dock to receive you, and you will have to be
content with a block of coral for your pillow and a date-palm for
your shelter.”

In pre-war days a tramp wind-jammer returning from Borneo or the
Solomon Islands with a cargo of copra would occasionally lose its
way in a storm and drive up the Gulf of Akaba, but apart from rare
occasions like that almost no one had visited the place for a
thousand years.

“You will get nothing to eat but unleavened bread, dates, and
perhaps a few fried locusts,” remarked one general, on whose advice
we bought many little luxuries, including fifty bars of milk
chocolate. A colonel cheerfully warned me, “If you value your
lives, take plenty of cigarettes for the Bedos.” So we filled every
crevice of our outfit with “gaspers,” which proved worth their
weight in sovereigns. On the day we landed in Arabia the thermometer
happened to register above the melting-point of chocolate, and when
I opened my kit-bag I found a semi-fluid mass of bullets, matches,
cigarettes, pencils, note-books, and chocolate.

On our way to Arabia we followed a roundabout route, sailing
fifteen hundred miles up the Nile into the heart of Africa to
Khartum, and then across the Nubian Desert for five hundred miles
to Port Sudan on the Red Sea, where we hoped to get accommodation
on a tramp vessel of some sort.

Our first stop up the Nile was at Luxor, where we were given a
welcome that had not been equaled since “Teddy” Roosevelt stopped
there on his way back from hunting big game in East Africa. A swarm
of haggard guides, who had been waiting four long years in vain
for American tourists, mobbed us from sheer joy. Our welcome
resembled a battle royal, and the runners from the Luxor Hotel
eventually succeeded in dragging us into their ramshackle gharry,
and off we careened through streets lined with deserted tourists’
shops, with the rest of the crowd howling and gyrating behind us
like dancing dervishes.

Our visit to Hundred-gated Thebes, the Temple of Karnak, and the
Tombs of the Kings the following day was rather spoiled by a
pitiful tale that our guide poured into our ears.

“American tourist he no come no more. All we guides starve. Oh,
woe! Oh, woe!” wailed this melancholy old Arab. “Me guide here
thirty-five years, and so help me Allah, the only real tourist in
the world is you Americans. The Inglisse [English], German, and
French spend all their time counting their centimes. If American
see something he want he say, ‘How much?’ You tell him and, praise
be to Allah, no matter what price is, he say, ‘All right, wrap ’er
up!’ All us best guides specialize on Americans. Before the war me
no more bother guiding anybody but American than you bother to
shoot baby elephant if you see big one. Why President Wilson no
stop the war; and why,” he added in a pleading voice, “you Americans
send money and food to Armenians and nothing to us poor starving
guides of Egypt?”



  Photograph: SHORE-LINE AT THE HEAD OF THE GULF OF AKABA



  Photograph: SUNSET OVER THE FORT AT AKABA



On the first evening after our arrival in Khartum we were dining
with the chief of the Central African Intelligence Department at
the House of the Hippopotamus Head when suddenly I noticed his face
turn pale. Glancing at the sky to the east I saw the reason. Coming
straight toward Khartum was a great black wall that looked like a
range of mountains moving down upon us. It was the dread _huboob,_
a terrific African sand-storm. The dinner party broke off abruptly,
and the other guests raced for their homes. Jumping on a donkey
which was awaiting me in the outer court, I made a dash for the
Charles Gordon Hotel, half a mile away.

It was a glorious moonlight night with stars twinkling radiantly
all around to the north, west, and south, but straight ahead to
the east I could see that mountain wall of sand churning toward
me. It looked as though the crack o’ doom were approaching. Soon
it was only a few hundred yards away, and then it broke over us.

Flying sand stung my face like needles and blinded me. Leaning
forward over the neck of my diminutive mount, I tried to offer as
little resistance to the storm as possible, but it was all we could
do to fight our way against that whirling mass of sand and reach
the hotel.

The heat indoors was so unbearable that every one tried sleeping
with his windows open, and the sand threatened to bury us, beds
and all. When I closed the windows the atmosphere was stifling,
and the sand still swept in sheets through the crevices. The storm
raged for hours. There was not a house in Khartum that the sand
did not penetrate. I have been through cyclones, cloud-bursts,
arctic blizzards, fierce gales in the Southern Ocean, monsoons,
typhoons, and Sumatras; but none of them could hold a candle to
that _huboob_. In Alaska when a newcomer, or _cheechacko_, remains
in the Far North through the long dark winter he becomes a
“sourdough” and is admitted to the fraternity of Arctic Pioneers.
In the Sudan there is a similar saying that he who survives a
_huboob_ forthwith becomes a pucka African. But seventy below in
the Yukon is preferable to one hundred above in a Sudan _huboob!_

One afternoon a representative from the British Intelligence Office
took me a few miles distant from Khartum to call on “the holiest
man in the Sudan.” So rich had the natives grown from the war that
they were refusing to sell their grain supplies, which were badly
needed by the armies in Palestine and Arabia. I had expressed a
desire to meet this holy man, and it occurred to the authorities
that a visit from a foreigner might flatter him and put him in a
sufficiently pleasant frame of mind to enable them to wheedle him
into selling his store of grain, which would cause the other
natives to follow suit.

We set out in the governor’s gharry, a picturesque victoria drawn
by high-spirited white horses. Our driver was a wild-eyed
fuzzy-wuzzy with a mop of crinkly hair full of mutton fat, with
long wooden skewers sticking out at all angles. Off we galloped
across the desert to the village of Berri, where we found Shereef
Yusef el Hindi, the holy man, awaiting us at the gate of his
mud-brick palace. The shereef, a tall, thin-faced,
distinguished-looking Arab with hypnotic eyes, garbed in sandals,
a robe of green and white silk, and green turban, ushered us into
his garden, where we were invited to review the most bewildering
array of drinks that I had ever seen. There were concoctions of
everything from pomegranate-juice to sloe gin and from rose-water
to a horse’s neck. They were of every shade from mauve to taupe.
They were served in every sort of container from cut-glass tumblers
to silver goblets. Fortunately, custom only required us to take a
sip of each; otherwise the result would have been catastrophic for
many were of subtle potency.

I remember that afternoon call as a series of surprises, of which
the first was the beauty of the garden inside the ugly adobe outer
walls of the shereef’s palace. The second was the variety of fluid
refreshment placed before us. Surely Shereef Yusef el Hindi must
have one of the genii from “The Arabian Nights” mixing drinks in
his palace. Even in pre-prohibition days, when assigned to cover
a national college fraternity convention, never was I invited to
pass through such an ordeal by drink as I faced at Shereef Yusef
el Hindi’s oasis. The third surprise came when I saw the attractive
interior of his palace as we passed through on our way to a Moorish
balcony near the roof, where we were confronted with another relay
of drinks. But the climax came when I discovered that my host
instead of being an African witch-doctor was a savant of wide
learning. His library even contained Arabic translations of the
speeches of Mr. Lloyd George, Lord Balfour, Theodore Roosevelt,
and Woodrow Wilson. In fact I found that this Sudanese holy man
knew more about the history of my own country than I did!

We discussed religion, and I was impressed by his spirit of
tolerance. “I believe, as do all Moslems who deserve to be called
educated,” said he, “that the fundamental principles underlying
the world’s greatest religions—Judaism, Christianity, Buddhism,
and Mohammedanism—are the same; that there is but one God and that
he is supreme; that we should be tolerant of the opinions of
others; that all men should live together as brothers and do unto
others as we would have others do unto us.”

It was not difficult to understand why Shereef Yusef el Hindi was
looked upon as a holy man by his ignorant, half-civilized
fellow-countrymen. His princely manners, his dignity and poise,
his musical bell-like voice, his large, lustrous, hypnotic brown
eyes, and his wisdom would have won him distinction in any country.
He is not an Ethiopian but is a descendant of the Arabian tribe of
Koreish to which Mohammed belonged.

Being a holy man in the Sudan is a lucrative profession. Shereef
Yusef el Hindi spends most of his time naming babies. When a child
is born the father comes running to him, prostrates himself at the
shereef’s feet, and says, “O noble one, what name shall I bestow
upon my child?”

Whereupon the holy man replies: “O faithful one, arise! Go thy way
and return again upon the morrow.”

Then, when the father returns the next day, the shereef intones:
“Allah be praised. In a vision last night the Prophet appeared and
revealed to me that your faith should be rewarded and your child
blessed with the name of his own daughter, Fatima. Five dollars,
please!”

From Khartum we crossed the Nubian Desert to Port Sudan on the Red
Sea. Here, as we had hoped, we found a tramp steamer bound for the
Arabian coast. She was a much torpedoed cargo-boat which had been
transferred from the British Indian coastal service to the
Mediterranean, where during the first years of the war she had
survived several harrowing years serving as a target for the
kaiser’s U-boats. On board with us were 226 Sudanese sheep, 150
horses and mules from America and Australia, sixty-seven donkeys
from Abyssinia, ninety-eight deserters from the Turkish army,
eighty-two Egyptian fellaheen laborers, thirty-four Gordon
Highlanders, six British officers, and two obsolete aëroplanes.
Our crew consisted of Hindus, Javanese, Somalis, Berberines, and
fuzzy-wuzzies. The skipper of this modern ark was a rotund, jovial
Scotch-Irishman by the name of Rose. I doubt whether Captain Kidd
in the palmiest days of Caribbean piracy ever put to sea with such
a motley cargo and crew.

The different nationalities on board segregated themselves into
little racial colonies and did their own cooking in various parts
of the main deck. It would be impossible to imagine what the good
ship _Ozarda_ looked like after we had been at sea for a few
days—and what she smelled like! Some of the Sudanese were from the
Nubian Desert, where it is difficult enough to get water for
drinking purposes, to say nothing of water for bathing; some of
them had never had a real bath in their lives. But there was one
of them whom the Highlanders nicknamed Bathing Bert. This man
insisted on having his tub out of a bucket five times each day.

The Egyptian laborers entertained us incessantly with their
fantastic ceremonial dances. There was not room enough for all of
them to dance at a time, and so they went at it in relays. Some of
them danced until they collapsed on the deck from exhaustion.
Fainting, to them, was merely a sign that their spirits had been
transported to heaven for a few minutes’ sojourn with the Almighty.

There was no passenger accommodation, so that we had to sleep out
on the deck with the donkeys and mules. I bunked beside a
mouse-colored mule from Hannibal, Missouri, the home of Mark Twain.
She was very pessimistic. She seemed to be worrying about something
back home and didn’t sleep well. Neither did I! Mark Twain would
have lost his sense of humor if he had been in my place.

We had a British officer on board who was bound for the Persian
Gulf. He was laboring under the erroneous impression that he had
fallen heir to the mantle of George Robey or Harry Lauder. He used
to tell a story until we were almost bored to extinction. I am
going to repeat one of his tales, not because I think it is funny
but because I know it is not funny! I want to show you the sort of
thing we had to endure. He said that he was out hunting lions once
in Central Africa; none of us doubted that for he had knocked about
all over the world from Kamchatka to the Kameruns. He said that
one day a lion jumped at him out of the bush but that he ducked
just in time, causing the lion to go right over his head. Some
minutes passed, and as the lion failed to return he crawled along
on his stomach to reconnoiter. Coming to an open space he peered
cautiously through the tall grass, and there he saw that same
lion—practising low jumps! One day we hit upon the idea of giving
cigarettes to the Turkish deserters, who could understand only a
few words of English, in order to get them to listen to his stories.
They would laugh when he laughed, and it satisfied him and certainly
relieved the rest of us.

When we finally arrived at the ancient and long deserted seaport
of King Solomon at the head of the Gulf of Akaba, our ark anchored
half a mile offshore. We eventually pushed off, bound for the
distant fringe of palm-trees at the base of King Solomon’s Mountains
on board a lighter loaded down with donkeys and mules. One unlucky
donkey was kicked overboard by a nervous mule. Immediately two
sharks appeared and attacked him fore and aft. One seized a front
leg and the other the poor donkey’s rump, and literally they pulled
him in two. We were told by the skipper of our ark that there are
more sharks in the Red Sea than in any other waters of the globe.

When we grounded on the coral beach we were greeted by several
thousand Bedouins, who welcomed us by blazing into the air with
their rifles and pistols. This firing had begun when we were still
afar off, and Mr. Chase and I thought we were arriving in the midst
of a battle. So fantastic and full of color was that palm-fringed
coral shore, and so picturesque were the Bedouins with their
flowing beards, their gorgeous robes, their strange head-dress,
and their array of ancient and modern weapons of every sort, that
it all seemed like some bizarre Oriental pageant. So indeed it was,
and these were some of Colonel Lawrence’s modern Arabian knights.

King Solomon’s long-forgotten port had been turned into a great
base-camp, and enormous piles of supplies lay stacked in the sand
and under the palms. Several of the British officers who were in
charge of the receiving of supplies at Akaba took us to a near-by
tent and slaked our growing thirst, and a few hours later Lawrence
himself came down the Wadi Ithm, returning from one of his
mysterious expeditions into the blue.

With Lawrence, no two days in the desert were ever the same, so
that it would be impossible to describe a typical one. But the camp
routine at the headquarters of the Arabian army, when no _ghazu_
(raid) was in progress, followed some such program as this: At 5
a. m., as the first rays of dawn fell on the jagged peaks
of Sinai, the army imam would climb the highest sand-dune and give
the morning call to prayer. He was a chap with such astonishing
vocal powers that his nasal chant woke every man and animal in
Akaba. Immediately after he had finished calling the Arabian
proletariat, Emir Feisal’s private imam would softly intone the
morning call at the door of his tent: “Praise be to Allah who makes
day succeed the night!”

Miss Gertrude Bell, the famous Syrian traveler, who, although a
woman, served on the Intelligence Staff in the Near East during
the war, has written a vivid description of the glorious intoxication
of a desert morning: “To wake in the desert dawn is like waking in
the heart of an opal. To my mind the saying about the Bay of Naples
should run differently. See the desert on a fine morning and die—if
you can.” Surely a fascinating book of adventure and romance could
be written about the war-time experience of Miss Bell in the
Mesopotamian Desert. As a staff officer she did everything required
of any man but wear a spine-pad and shorts.

A few minutes after the call to prayer had aroused the camp, a cup
of sweetened coffee would turn up, brought in by one of Feisal’s
slaves. The emir had five young Abyssinian blacks; slaves who were
the acme of fidelity, because the emir did not treat them as
slaves, nor regard them as such. Whenever one of them desired
money, Feisal ordered him to help himself to whatever he needed
from his bag of gold. No matter what was taken, he never complained,
and as a result, the thought of robbing never seemed to occur to
them.

At 6  a. m. Lawrence was in the habit of breakfasting with
Feisal in the emir’s tent, squatting Bedouin fashion on an old
Baluchi prayer-rug. Breakfast on lucky days included a many-layered
pastry of richly spiced puffed bread called Mecca cakes, and cooked
durra, a small round white seed—rather nasty stuff. Then, of
course, there were the inevitable dates. After breakfast little
glasses of sweetened tea were produced. From then until 8 a. m.
Lawrence would discuss the possible events of the day
either with the British officers or with some of the more prominent
Arab leaders. At that time Feisal worked with his secretary or
talked over private affairs in his tent with Lawrence. At 8 a. m.
Feisal would hold court and grant audiences in the Diwan
tent. According to the regular procedure, it was customary for the
emir to sit at the end of a great rug on a dais. Callers or
petitioners sat in front of the tent in a half-circle until they
were called up. All questions were settled summarily, and nothing
was left over.

One morning I was in the tent with Lawrence when a young Bedouin
was hauled in charged with having the evil eye. Feisal was not
present. Lawrence ordered the offender to sit at the opposite side
of the tent and look at him. Then for ten minutes he regarded him
with steady gaze, his steel-blue eyes seeming to bore a hole into
the culprit’s very soul. At the end of the ten minutes, Lawrence
dismissed the Bedouin. The evil spell had been driven off! By the
grace of Allah.

Another day a member of Lawrence’s body-guard came to him with the
complaint that one of his companions possessed the evil eye. Said
he, “O sea of justice, yonder fellow looked at my camel, and
straightway it went lame.” Lawrence settled this difficulty by
putting the man charged with the evil eye on the lame camel and
giving the defendant’s camel to the man who brought up the charge.

Blue eyes terrify the average Arab. Lawrence possesses two that
are bluer than the waters of the Mediterranean, and so the Bedouins
decided there was something superhuman about him. They themselves
nearly all have eyes like black velvet.

Whenever Feisal was present, Lawrence would step aside and decline
to decide disputes. He had no ambition to become the ruler of
Arabia himself, and he knew that it would be far better for the
future of the Arabs and for Emir Feisal if their differences were
handled in the usual way by one of their own people. In fact,
Lawrence never did anything himself that he could delegate to an
Arab who was capable of handling it successfully.

Usually at 11:30 a. m. Feisal arose and walked back to
his living-tent, where a little lunch would be served. Lawrence,
in the meantime, would spend half an hour or so reading the
inevitable Aristophanes or a favorite English poet. He carried
three books all through the campaign: “The Oxford Book of English
Verse,” Malory’s “Morte d’Arthur,” and Aristophanes, which shows
his catholic taste.

Lunch usually consisted of dishes such as stewed thorn-buds,
lentils, unleavened bread cooked in the sand, and rice or honey
cakes. I ate with a spoon, although the Arabs used their fingers,
as did Lawrence. After lunch there followed a short relay of
general talk, rounding out the conversation of the luncheon hour,
and, in the meantime, black bitter coffee and sweetened tea would
be served. In drinking tea and coffee the tribesmen would make as
much noise as possible. It is the polite way of indicating that
you are enjoying your drink. The emir would then dictate letters
to an Arab scribe or enjoy a siesta, while Lawrence, absorbed in
Wordsworth or Shelley, squatted on a prayer-rug in his own tent.
If there were afternoon cases to be disposed of, Shereef Lawrence
or Shereef Feisal would again hold court in the reception-tent.
From 5 until 6 p. m. Feisal would usually grant private
audiences, and at such times Lawrence sat with him, since the
discussion nearly always would have to do with the night’s
reconnaissance and future military operations.

Meanwhile, behind the servants’ tent a fire would be started with
a pile of thorns. Another sheep’s throat would be cut, in the name
of Allah the Merciful and Compassionate, and put on to roast. At
6 p. m. would come the evening meal, much like lunch
but with large fragments of mutton crowning the rice-heap, after
which would follow intermittent cups of tea until bedtime, which
for Lawrence was never any fixed hour. At night Lawrence would have
many of his most important consultations with the Arab leaders,
but occasionally Feisal would entertain his intimate associates
with stories of his adventures in Syria and Turkey, during the
eighteen years when his family lived at the Sublime Porte under
the wary eye of the Red Sultan.

The rest of us would often read well into the night. Before leaving
Egypt I had picked up second-hand copies of the records of a few
great Arabian travelers, such as Burkhardt, Burton, and Doughty.
With the exception of Doughty’s monumental masterpieces I found
none of the books in my haphazard collection more fascinating than
Miss Bell’s “The Desert and the Sown.” My interest in it was
stimulated by the stories which Colonel Lawrence related to me of
the war-time adventures of the brilliant authoress. This
extraordinary Englishwoman had been wandering about remote corners
of the Near East for a number of years prior to the war. She was
a scholar and a scientist, not an idle traveler in quest of
notoriety. With a lone Arab companion or two she had trekked for
hundreds of miles along the fringe of the Great Arabian Desert,
visiting the wild tribes and studying their language and customs.
So vast was her knowledge that the heads of the British Intelligence
Department in Mesopotamia asked her to accept a staff appointment,
and she played no small part in winning the friendship of some of
the most bloodthirsty tribesmen residing in the Tigris and Euphrates
Valleys. In her book, “The Desert and the Sown,” Miss Bell throws
much interesting light on the life of the desert-dwellers:

  The fortunes of the Arab are as varied as those of a gambler
  on the stock exchange. One day he is the richest man in
  the desert, and the next morning he may not have a single
  camel foal to his name. He lives in a state of war, and
  even if the surest pledges have been exchanged with the
  neighbouring tribes there is no certainty that a band of
  raiders from hundreds of miles away will not descend on
  his camp in the night, as a tribe unknown to Syria, the
  Beni Awajeh, fell, two years ago, on the lands south-east
  of Aleppo, crossing three hundred miles of desert, Marduf
  (two on a camel) from their seat above Bagdad, carrying
  off all the cattle and killing scores of people. How many
  thousand years this state of things has lasted, those who
  shall read the earliest records of the inner desert will tell
  us, for it goes back to the first of them, but in all the
  centuries the Arab has bought no wisdom from experience.
  He is never safe, and yet he behaves as though security were
  his daily bread. He pitches his feeble little camps, ten or
  fifteen tents together, over a wide stretch of undefended and
  indefensible country. He is too far from his fellows to
  call in their aid, too far as a rule to gather the horsemen
  together and follow after the raiders whose retreat must be
  sufficiently slow, burdened with the captured flocks, to
  guarantee success to a swift pursuit. Having lost all his
  worldly goods, he goes about the desert and makes his
  plaint, and one man gives him a strip or two of goats’ hair
  cloth, and another a coffee-pot, a third presents him with a
  camel, and a fourth with a few sheep, till he has a roof to
  cover him and enough animals to keep his family from
  hunger. There are good customs among the Arabs, as
  Namrud said. So he bides his time for months, perhaps
  for years, until at length opportunity ripens, and the horsemen
  of his tribe with their allies ride forth and recapture all
  the flocks that had been carried off and more besides, and
  the feud enters another phase. The truth is, that the
  ghazu (raid) is the only industry the desert knows and the
  only game. As an industry it seems to the commercial
  mind to be based on a false conception of the laws of supply
  and demand, but as a game there is much to be said for it.
  The spirit of adventure finds full scope in it—you can
  picture the excitement of the night ride across the plain,
  the rush of the mares in the attack, the glorious popping
  of rifles and the exhilaration of knowing yourself a fine
  fellow as you turn homewards with the spoil. It is the best
  sort of fantasia, as they say in the desert, with a spice of
  danger behind it. Not that the danger is alarmingly great:
  a considerable amount of amusement can be got without
  much bloodshed, and the raiding Arab is seldom bent on
  killing. He never lifts his hand against women and children,
  and if here and there a man falls it is almost by
  accident, since who can be sure of the ultimate destination
  of a rifle bullet once it is embarked on its lawless course?
  This is the Arab view of the ghazu.



  CHAPTER X


  THE BATTLE OF SEIL EL HASA


As they pushed northward from the head of the Gulf of Akaba, the
Hedjaz forces were joined by the Ibn Jazi Howeitat and the Beni
Sakhr, two of the best fighting tribes of the whole Arabian Desert.
About the same date the Juheinah, the Ateibah, and the Anazeh came
riding in on their camels to join Feisal and Lawrence.

After the fall of Akaba, Lawrence had made several trips to
Palestine to confer with Allenby. From that time the British in
Palestine and King Hussein’s army were in close coöperation.

The Arab army had been divided into two distinct parts, one known
as regulars and the other as irregulars. The regulars were all
infantrymen; there were not more than twenty thousand of them. They
were either deserters from the Turkish army or men of Arab blood
who had been fighting under the sultan’s flag and who had
volunteered to join the forces of King Hussein after being taken
prisoner by the British in Mesopotamia or in Palestine. At first
they were used mainly for garrisoning old Turkish posts captured
by the advancing Shereefian horde. Later on, after they had been
thoroughly trained, they were used as storm-troops in attacking
fortified positions. The Arab regulars were under an Irishman,
Colonel P. C. Joyce, who, next to Lawrence, perhaps played a more
important part in the Arabian campaign than any other non-Moslem.
The irregulars, who were by far the most numerous, were Bedouins
mounted on camels and horses. In all, Lawrence had now over two
hundred thousand fighting men available.

The battle of Seil el Hasa illustrates the manner in which he
handled King Hussein’s forces. A Turkish regiment, under the
command of Hamid Fahkri Bey, composed of infantry, cavalry, mountain
artillery, and machine-gun squads, was sent over the Hedjaz Railway
from Kerak, southeast of the Dead Sea, to recapture the town of
Tafileh, which had fallen into the hands of the Arabian army. The
Turkish regiment had been hurriedly formed in the Hauran and Amman
and was short of supplies.

When the Turks came in contact with the Bedouin patrols at Seil el
Hasa, they drove them back into the town of Tafileh. Lawrence and
his Shereefian staff had laid out a defensive position on the south
bank of the great valley in which Tafileh stands, and Shereef Zeid,
youngest of the four sons of King Hussein, occupied that position
during the night, with five hundred regulars and irregulars. At
the same time, Lawrence sent most of the baggage of his army off
in another direction, and all the natives of the town thought the
Arab army was running away.

“I think they were,” Lawrence remarked to me. Tafileh was seething
with excitement. Sheik Dhiab el Auran, the amateur Sherlock of the
Hedjaz, had brought in reports of growing dissatisfaction among
the villagers, and rumors of treachery; so Lawrence went down from
his housetop, before dawn, into the crowded streets to do a bit of
necessary eavesdropping. Dressed in his voluminous robes, he had
no difficulty in concealing his identity in the dark. There was
much criticism of King Hussein, and the populace was not
over-respectful. Every one was screaming with terror, and the town
of Tafileh was in a state of tumult. Homes were being speedily
vacated, and goods were being bundled through the lattice windows
into the crowded streets. Mounted Arabs were galloping up and down,
firing wildly into the air and through the palm branches. With each
flash of the rifles the cliffs of Tafileh gorge stood out in
momentary relief, sharp and clear against the topaz sky. Just at
dawn the enemy bullets began to fall, and Lawrence went out to
Shereef Zeid and persuaded him to send one of his officers with
two _fusils-mitrailleurs_ to support the Arab villagers, who were
still holding the southern crest of the foot-hills. The arrival of
the machine-gunners revived their spirits and stimulated the Arabs
to attack again. With a mighty shout calling upon the Prophet of
God, they drove the Turks over another ridge and across a small
plain to the Wadi el Hasa. They took the ridge but were held up
there and found the main body of Hamid Fahkri’s Turkish army posted
just behind it. The fighting became hotter now; on both sides men
were dropping thickly. Continuous bursts of machine-gun fire and
heavy shelling checked the ardor of the Arabs. Zeid hesitated to
send forward his reserves, and so Lawrence hurriedly rode to the
north of Tafileh for reinforcements. On his way he met his
machine-gunners returning; five true believers had been sent to
Paradise, one gun had exploded, and they were out of ammunition.
Lawrence sent back urgent messages to Zeid to rush forward a
mountain-gun, more ammunition, and all other available machine-guns
to one of his reserve positions at the southern end of the little
plain between El Hasa and Tafileh Valley.

Then Lawrence galloped back to his front line on the ridge, where
he found things in a precarious state. The ridge was being held by
just thirty Ibn Jazi Howeitat mounted men and a handful of
villagers. He could see the enemy working through the pass and
along the eastern boundary to the ridge of the plain, where twenty
Turkish machine-guns were concentrating their fire. An attempt was
being made to flank the ridge which the Arabs were holding. The
German officers directing the Turks were also correcting the fusing
of the shrapnel, which had been grazing the top of the hill and
bursting harmlessly over the desert plain. As Lawrence sat there,
they began to spray the sides and top of the hill with steel
splinters and with startling results, and he knew that the loss of
the position was but a matter of minutes. A squadron of Albatross
scouts flew up and helped to minimize the chances of the Shereefian
forces by bombing them heavily from the air.

Lawrence gave his Motalga horsemen all the cartridges that he could
collect, and the Arabs on foot ran back over the plain. He was
among them. Since he had come straight up the cliffs from Tafileh,
his animals had not caught up with him; the mounted men held out
for fifteen minutes more and then galloped back unhurt. Lawrence
collected his men in the reserve position on a ridge about sixty
feet high, commanding an excellent view of the plain. It was now
about noon. He had lost fifteen men and had only eighty left. But,
a few minutes later, several hundred Ageyl and some of his other
men, with a Hotchkiss automatic machine-gun, came up. Letfi el
Assli, a Syrian, arrived with two more machine-guns, and Lawrence
held his own until three o’clock, when Shereef Zeid came up with
mountain artillery and more machine-guns and with fifty cavalrymen
and two hundred Arabs on foot.

Meanwhile, the Turks had occupied his old front lines. Fortunately,
Lawrence had their exact range. He had coolly paced it off while
his followers were retreating pell-mell to their reserved position.
He then rushed all his artillery to the top of the ridge and
despatched the cavalry to the right, to work up beyond the eastern
boundary ridge. These mounted men were fortunate enough to get
forward without being seen, until they had turned the Turkish flank
at two thousand yards. There they made a dismounted attack, dancing
forward with white puffs of smoke rippling from their rifles.

Meanwhile more than a hundred Arabs of the Aimi tribe, who had
refused to fight the previous day because they were not satisfied
with the amount of loot they were receiving, came up and joined
Lawrence. There are few Bedouins who can resist the temptation to
participate in a good fight when they see one coming on. He sent
them to his left flank, and they crept down behind the western
ridge of the plain to within two hundred yards of the Turkish
Maxims. The ridge which the Turks occupied at that time was of a
flint-like rock, so that intrenchment was impossible. The ricochets
of the shells and shrapnel as they struck the flint boulders and
glanced off were horrible, causing heavy losses among the enemy.
Lawrence ordered the men on his left flank to fire an unusually
heavy burst from their Hotchkiss and Vickers machine-guns at the
Turks manning the Maxims. These were so accurate that they
completely wiped the latter out. Then he ordered his cavalry to
charge the retreating Turks from the right flank, while he also
moved forward from the center with his infantry and banners waving
defiantly. Horse and man, the Turks collapsed and their attack
crumpled. At the sun’s decline Lawrence occupied the Turkish lines
and chased the enemy back past their guns into the Hasa Valley. It
was dark before his followers gave up the pursuit, exhausted from
lack of sleep and food. “Allahu Akbar,” cried the weary men as they
fell upon their knees with their faces toward Mecca, giving praise
to Allah for their victory. Lawrence had put to flight a whole
Turkish regiment. Among the slain lay Hamid Fahkri.



  CHAPTER XI


  LAWRENCE THE TRAIN-WRECKER


Fate never played a stranger prank than when she transformed this
shy young Oxford graduate from a studious archæologist into the
leader of a hundred thrilling raids, creator of kings, commander
of an army, and world’s champion train-wrecker.

One day Lawrence’s column was trekking along the Wadi Ithm. Behind
him rode a thousand Bedouins mounted on the fleetest racing-camels
ever brought down the Negb. The Bedouins were improvising strange
war-songs describing the deeds of the blond shereef whom General
Storrs had introduced to me as “the uncrowned king of Arabia.”
Lawrence headed the column. He paid no attention to the song
lauding him as a modern Abu Bekr. We were discussing the possibility
of ancient Hittite civilization forming the connecting link between
the civilizations of Babylon and Nineveh and ancient Crete. But
his mind was on other things and suddenly he broke off to remark:

“Do you know, one of the most glorious sights I have ever seen is
a train-load of Turkish soldiers ascending skyward after the
explosion of a tulip!”

Three days later the column started off at night in the direction
of the Pilgrim Railway. In support of Lawrence were two hundred
Howeitat. After two days’ hard riding across a country more barren
than the mountains of the moon, and through valleys reminiscent of
Death Valley, California, the raiding column reached a ridge of
hills near the important Turkish railway-center and garrisoned town
of Maan. At a signal from Lawrence all dismounted, left the camels,
walked up to the summit of the nearest hill, and from between
sandstone cliffs looked down across the railway track.

This was the same railway that had been built some years before to
enable the Turkish Government to keep a closer hand on Arabia
through transport of troops. It also simplified the problem of
transportation for pilgrims to Medina and Mecca. Medina was
garrisoned by an army of over twenty thousand Turks and was strongly
fortified. Lawrence and his Arabs could have severed this line
completely at any time, but they chose a shrewder policy. Train-load
after train-load of supplies and ammunition must be sent down to
Medina over that railway. So whenever Lawrence and his followers
ran out of food or ammunition they had a quaint little habit of
slipping over, blowing up a train or two, looting it, and
disappearing into the blue with everything that had been so
thoughtfully sent down from Constantinople.

As a result of the experience he gained on these raids, Lawrence’s
knowledge of the handling of high explosives was as extensive as
his knowledge of archæology, and he took great pride in his unique
ability as a devastator of railways. The Bedouins, on the other
hand, were entirely ignorant of the use of dynamite; so Lawrence
nearly always planted all of his own mines and took the Bedouins
along merely for company and to help carry off the loot.

He had blown up so many trains that he was as familiar with the
Turkish system of transportation and patrols as were the Turks
themselves. In fact he had dynamited Turkish trains passing along
the Hedjaz Railway with such regularity that in Damascus seats in
the rear carriage sold for five and six times their normal value.
Invariably there was a wild scramble for seats at the rear of a
train; because Lawrence nearly always touched off his tulips, as
he playfully called his mines, under the engine, with the result
that the only carriages damaged were those in front.

There were two important reasons why Lawrence preferred not to
instruct the Arabs in the use of high explosives. First of all, he
was afraid that the Bedouins would keep on playfully blowing up
trains even after the termination of the war. They looked upon it
merely as an ideal form of sport, one that was both amusing and
lucrative. Secondly, it was extremely dangerous to leave footmarks
along the railway line, and he preferred not to delegate tulip
planting to men who might be careless.

The column crouched behind great chunks of sandstone for eight
hours until a number of patrols had passed by. Lawrence satisfied
himself that they were going at intervals of two hours. At midday,
while the Turks were having their siesta, Lawrence slipped down to
the railway line, and, walking a short distance on the sleepers in
his bare feet in order not to leave impressions on the ground which
might be seen by the Turks, he picked out what he considered a
proper spot for planting a charge. Whenever he merely wanted to
derail the engine of a train he would use only a pound of blasting
gelatin; when he wanted to blow it up he would use from forty to
fifty pounds. On this occasion, in order that no one might be
disappointed, he used slightly more than fifty pounds. It took him
a little more than an hour to dig a hole between the sleepers, bury
the explosive, and run a fine wire underneath the rail, over the
embankment, and up the hillside.

Laying a mine is rather a long and tedious task. Lawrence first
took off a top layer of railway ballast, which he placed in a bag
that he carried under his cloak for that purpose. He next took out
enough earth and rock to fill two five-gallon petrol tins. This he
carried off to a distance of some fifty yards from the track and
scattered along so that it would not be noticed by the Turkish
patrols. After filling the cavity with his fifty-pound tulip-seed
of dynamite, he put the surface layer of ballast back in place and
leveled it off with his hand. As a last precaution he took a
camel’s-hair brush, swept the ground smooth, and then, in order
not to leave a footprint, walked backward down the bank for twenty
yards and with the brush carefully removed all trace of his tracks.
He buried the wire for a distance of two hundred yards up the side
of the hill and then calmly sat down under a bush, right out in
the open, and waited as nonchalantly as though tending a flock of
sheep. When the first trains came along the guards stationed on
top of the cars and in front of the engine, with their rifles
loaded, saw nothing more extraordinary than a lone Bedouin sitting
on the hillside with a shepherd’s staff in his hand. Lawrence
allowed the front wheels of the engine to pass over the mine, and
then, as his column lay there half paralyzed behind the boulders,
he sent the current into the gelatin. It exploded with a roar like
the falling of a six-story building. An enormous black cloud of
smoke and dust went up. With a clanking and clattering of iron the
engine rose from the track. It broke squarely in two. The boiler
exploded, and chunks of iron and steel showered the country for a
radius of three hundred yards. Numerous bits of boiler-plate missed
Lawrence by inches.

Instead of provisions, this train carried some four hundred Turkish
soldiers on their way to the relief of Medina. They swarmed out of
the coaches and started in a menacing manner toward Lawrence. All
this time the Bedouins, lining the tops of the hills, were popping
at the Turks. Evidently one Turkish officer suspected that the lone
Arab was the mysterious Englishman for whom rewards up to fifty
thousand pounds had been offered. He shouted something, and the
men, instead of shooting, ran toward Lawrence with the evident
intention of taking him prisoner; but before they had advanced six
paces Lawrence whipped out his long-barreled Colt from the folds
of his aba and used it so effectively that they turned and fled.
He always carried a heavy American frontier-model weapon. Although
very few persons ever actually saw him, it was well known among
the British officers that he spent many hours at target-practice,
with the result that he had made himself an expert shot.

Many of the Turks dodged behind the embankment and began shooting
through the carriage-wheels; but Lawrence, in anticipation of this,
had posted two Lewis machine-guns just around a curve in the track,
where they covered the opposite side of the railway embankment
behind which the Turks had taken refuge. The gun-crews opened fire,
and before the Turks knew what had happened their line was raked
from end to end and every man behind the embankment either killed
or wounded. The rest of the Turks who had remained on the train
fled panic-stricken in all directions.

The Arabs, who were crouching behind the rocks popping away with
their rifles, charged down, tore open the carriages, and tossed
out everything on board that was not nailed down. The loot consisted
of sacks of Turkish silver coin and paper currency and many
beautiful draperies which the Turks had taken from the private
houses of wealthy Arabs in Medina. The Bedouins piled all the loot
along the embankment, and with shouts of glee commenced dividing
it among themselves, while Lawrence signed the duplicate way-bills
and playfully returned one copy to a wounded Turkish guard whom he
intended to leave behind. They were just like children around a
Christmas tree. Occasionally two men would want the same silk
Kermani rug and begin fighting over it. When that happened Lawrence
would step between them and turn the rug over to some third man.

Early in September, accompanied by two sheiks of the Ageilat Beni
Atiyah from Mudowarrah, Lawrence left Akaba and trekked up to the
multicolored sandstone cliff country which the tribesmen called
Rum. In less than a week he had been joined by a force of 116
Toweiha, Zuwida, Darausha, Dhumaniyah, Togatga, Zelebani, and
Howeitat.

The appointed rendezvous was a small railway bridge near Kilo 587
south of Damascus. Here Lawrence buried his usual bit of tulip-seed
between the rails, and stationed Stokes and Lewis guns at
vantage-points three hundred yards or so distant. The following
afternoon a Turk patrol spotted them. An hour later a party of
forty mounted Turks put out from the fort at Haret Ammar to attack
the mine-laying party from the south. Another party of over a
hundred set forth to outflank Lawrence from the north, but he
decided to take a chance and hold his ground. A little later a
train with two engines and two box-cars moved slowly up from Haret
Ammar, machine-guns and rifles spitting lead from the roofs and
from loopholes in the cars as the train advanced. As it passed,
Lawrence touched his electric switch and exploded a mine directly
under the second engine. The jar was sufficient to derail the
first, demolish the boiler, as well as smash the cab and tender of
the second, up-end the first box-car, and derail the second. While
the Arabs swarmed around looting the wrecked train, Lawrence fired
a box of guncotton under the front engine, completing its
destruction. The boxcars were full of valuable baggage, and the
Arabs went wild with joy. In all, seventy Turks were killed, ninety
taken prisoner, and an Austrian lieutenant and thirteen Austrian
and German sergeants blown up.

Every fourth or fifth man of the famous fighting Howeitat tribe is
a sheik. Naturally the head sheik has but little power. Frequently
these men would accompany Lawrence on a raid. On one such expedition
to the railway near Biresh-Shediyah he had to adjudicate for them
in twelve cases of assault with weapons, four camel-thefts, one
marriage settlement, fourteen feuds, a bewitchment, and two cases
of evil eye. He settled the bewitchment affair by counter-bewitching
the hapless defendant. The evil eye cases he cleverly adjusted by
sending the culprits away.

On still another occasion, during the first week of the following
October, Lawrence was sitting out in the open near Kilo 500. His
Bedouin followers were concealed behind him in the broom-brush.
Along came a heavy train with twelve coaches. The explosion
following the turning on of the electric current shattered the
fire-box of the locomotive, burst many of the tubes, hurled the
cylinders into the air, completely cleaned out the cab, including
the engineer and fireman, warped the frame of the engine, bent the
two rear driving-wheels, and broke their axles. When Lawrence put
in his official report on this raid he humorously added a postscript
to the effect that the locomotive was “beyond repair.” The tender
and first coach were also demolished. Mazmi Bey, a general of the
Turkish General Staff who happened to be on board, fired two shots
out of the window of his private car with his Mauser pistol, which
then evidently jammed. Although it appeared advisable for him to
take to the camels and the distant hills, Lawrence and his band
swooped down on the train, captured eight coaches, killed twenty
Turks, and carried off seventy tons of food-stuffs without suffering
any losses.

His only European companion on some of his wildest train-blowing
parties was a daring Australian machine-gunner, Sergeant Yells by
name. He was a glutton for excitement and a tiger in a fight. On
one occasion, when out with a raiding-party of Abu Tayi, Yells
accounted for between thirty and forty Turks with his Lewis gun.
When the loot was divided among the Bedouins, Yells, in true
Australian fashion, insisted on having his share. So Lawrence
handed him a Persian carpet and a fancy Turkish cavalry sword.

Shereefs Ali and Abdullah also played an important part in the
raids on the Hedjaz Railway and in the capture of great convoys of
Turkish camels near Medina. In 1917 Lawrence and his associates,
in coöperation with Feisal, Ali, Abdullah, and Zeid, blew up
twenty-five Turkish trains, tore up fifteen thousand rails, and
destroyed fifty-seven bridges and culverts. During the eighteen
months that he led the Arabs, they dynamited seventy-nine trains
and bridges! It is a remarkable fact that he participated in only
one such expedition that turned out unsatisfactorily. General
Allenby, in one of his reports, said that Colonel Lawrence had made
train-wrecking the national sport of Arabia!

Later in the campaign, near Deraa, the most important railway-junction
south of Damascus, Lawrence touched off one of his tulips under
the driving-wheels of a particularly long and heavily armed train.
It turned out that Djemal Pasha, the commander-in-chief of the
Turkish armies, was on board with nearly a thousand troops. Djemal
hopped out of his saloon and, followed by all his staff, jumped
into a ditch.

Lawrence had less than sixty Bedouins with him, but all were
members of his personal body-guard and famous fighters. In spite
of the overwhelming odds, the young Englishman and his Arabs fought
a pitched battle in which 125 Turks were killed and Lawrence lost
a third of his own force. The remainder of the Turks finally
rallied around their commander-in-chief, and Lawrence and his Arabs
had to show their heels.

At every station along the Hedjaz-Pilgrim Railway were one or two
bells which the Turkish officials rang as a warning to passengers
when the train was ready to start. Nearly all of them now decorate
the homes of Lawrence’s friends. Along with them are a dozen or
more Turkish mile-posts and the number-plates from half the engines
which formerly hauled trains over the line from Damascus to Medina.
Lawrence and his associates collected these in order to confirm
their victories. While in Arabia, I often heard the half-jocular,
half-serious remark that Lawrence would capture a Turkish post
merely for the sake of adding another bell to his collection; and
it was no uncommon thing to see Lawrence, or one of his officers,
walking stealthily along the railway embankment, between patrols,
searching for the iron post marking Kilo 1000 south of Damascus.
Once found, they would cut it off with a tulip-bud—a stick of
dynamite. When not engaged in a major movement against the Turks
or in mobilizing the Bedouins, Lawrence usually spent his time
blowing up trains and demolishing track.

So famous did this young archæologist become throughout the Near
East as a dynamiter of bridges and trains that after the final
defeat of the Turkish armies, when word reached Cairo that Lawrence
would soon be passing through Egypt en route to Paris, General
Watson, G. O. C. of troops, jocularly announced that he was going
to detail a special detachment to guard Kasr el Nil, the Brooklyn
Bridge of Egypt, which crosses the Nile from Cairo to the
residential suburb of Gazireh.

It had been rumored that Lawrence was dissatisfied at having
finished up the campaign with the odd number of seventy-nine
mine-laying parties to his credit. So the story spread up and down
along the route of the Milk and Honey Railway between Egypt and
Palestine that he proposed to make it an even eighty and wind up
his career as a dynamiter in an appropriate manner by planting a
few farewell tulips under the Kasr el Nil, just outside the door
of the British military headquarters.



  CHAPTER XII


  DRINKERS OF THE MILK OF WAR


While Lawrence was traveling from sheik to sheik and from shereef
to shereef, urging them, with the eloquence of all the desert
dialects at his command, to join in the campaign against the Turks,
squadrons of German aëroplanes were swarming down from Constantinople
in a winged attempt to frighten the Arabian army with their strange
devil-birds. But the Arabs refused to be intimidated. Instead, they
insisted that their resourceful British leader should get them some
“fighting swallows” too.

Not long after a particularly obnoxious German air raid over Akaba,
a royal courier galloped up to Lawrence’s tent on his racing
dromedary. Without even waiting for his mount to kneel, he slid
off the camel’s hump and delivered a scroll on which was inscribed
the following:

  O faithful one! Thy Government hath aëroplanes as the
  locusts. By the Grace of Allah I implore thee to ask thy
  King to despatch us a dozen or so.

                 Hussein.

The people of Arabia are exceedingly ornate and poetical in
expressing themselves. They swear by the splendor of light and the
silence of night and love to talk in imagery as rich as the colors
in their Turkoman prayer-rugs.

An American typewriting concern startled some people by advertising
that more people use the Arabic alphabet than use either Roman or
Chinese characters. They are very proud of their language and call
it the language of the angels; they believe it is spoken in heaven.
It is one of the most difficult languages in the world to master.
According to our way of thinking the Arabs begin at the end of a
sentence and write backward. They have 450 words meaning “line,”
822 words meaning “camel,” and 1037 words meaning “sword.” Their
language is full of color. They call a hobo “a son of the road,”
and a jackal “a son of howling.” Arab despatch writers penned their
accounts in picturesque vein. “The fighting was worth seeing,”
wrote Emir Abdullah to Colonel Lawrence. “The armed locomotives
were escaping with the coaches of the train like a serpent beaten
on the head.”

Inspired by a squadron of antiquated bombing and reconnaissance
planes which Lawrence had brought down from Egypt, the Arabs won
an important victory over the Turks in the desert just south of
the Dead Sea. Thereupon the commander of the Arabian army sent this
message to King George:

  To His Majesty the King of England.

  Our victorious troops have captured one of the enemy’s
  divisions near Tafileh. The truth follows by post.

         Feisal.

Another Arab chieftain in writing an account of an engagement said:

  I sallied forth with my people, drinkers of the milk of
  war. The enemy advanced to meet us, but Allah was not
  with them.

During the war the British Government ran telephone and telegraph
wires from Jeddah on the Red Sea to the king’s palace in the
Forbidden City. The lines were strung by Mohammedans from Egypt,
not by Christians. In spite of his abhorrence of all modern
inventions, the king permitted the installation merely because he
realized the urgent importance of being able to keep in touch with
his Allies. As he insisted on living in the Forbidden City, the
telephone and telegraph were a military necessity. There are about
twenty branch ’phones on this official telephone system. One day
a British general telephoned to his Majesty from Jeddah to discuss
some urgent military and political question with him. In the middle
of the conversation the king overheard other voices on the line
and shouted angrily down the wire to the exchange: “I command thee
to cut off every telephone in the Hedjaz for one hour! It is I,
the king, who speaks.” And so it came to pass that the entire
Arabian telephone system was tied up by a royal command. If you
ever happen to be in Arabia and want to telephone to King Hussein,
“Calif of Islam and commander of the Faithful,” all you have to do
is to ask Central to give you “Mecca Number One.” Shortly after
the capture of Jeddah, Lawrence, in company with Colonel C. E.
Wilson, the governor of Port Sudan, Mr. Ronald Storrs, and Emir
Abdullah, for their amusement, made the Turkish band which they
had captured a few days before play “Deutschland, Deutschland über
Alles,” “The Hymn of Hate,” and other German songs. The king
happened to ring up in the middle of the concert. Hearing the
medley of discord he requested that the receiver be left down, and
for half an hour he sat in his palace in Mecca chuckling with glee
while the band did its worst.

The British aviators who came down to Arabia not only had to wear
Arab head-dress, but they had to fly at a considerable height to
avoid being shot at by the Bedouins, who have an irresistible
desire to shoot anything that is moving fast. They peppered an
armored car on one occasion and then sent around profuse apologies.
They admitted they knew it was a friendly machine but said it was
going so fast they simply could not resist the temptation to see
if they could hit it.

Colonel Lawrence and his associates introduced the first motor-cars
into Holy Arabia, and Emir Feisal used a one-ton truck as his royal
limousine. I went with him on one of his journeys from Akaba to
the front line outposts at Waheida in the desert, north of the
Turkish stronghold at Maan on the Hedjaz Railway. We camped for
the day on the summit of a high hill amid the ruins of an old
Turkish fortress. That noon Feisal gave a dinner in our honor. We
sat around on empty boxes instead of squatting on the ground Arab
fashion, and a table was improvised for our special benefit. The
others present were General Nuri Pasha, Malud Bey, and old Auda
Abu Tayi. Before the meal they served us with cups of sweetened
tea. Then for dinner a great plate of rice crowned with chunks of
lamb and goat was placed in the center of the table. Besides this
there was another dish of rice mixed with pieces of meat. Beans
with tomato sauce, lentils and peas, pomegranates, dried dates and
figs, and a sort of candy made from sesame seed and sugar,
resembling raw asbestos, heaped the groaning banquet board. For
dessert we were to have had a tin of California pears; they had
been sent down from Egypt as a gift for the Emir. Old Auda Abu Tayi
had never seen such delicious-looking pears in his life, and the
temptation to sample them so sorely tried his patience that he was
unable to await the end of the meal. Disregarding the food before
him, and throwing formality to the winds, he attacked them at once
and devoured all of them before the rest of us were through with
the first course! At the end of the meal small cups of coffee
flavored with cardamom, an Indian seed with a minty taste, were
served to us, and a bowl of water was solemnly passed around in
order that we might remove remnants of gravy still lingering in
our beards. Then the emir’s Abyssinian slaves brought cigarettes,
and we strolled out with our field-glasses to watch the battle in
progress a few miles distant in the hollow of the land around Maan.

Both before and after lunch scores of Arabs filed into the tent to
kiss Feisal’s hand. He never allowed them to touch it with their
lips, but pulled it away just before they had an opportunity to
kiss it, to show them how reluctant he was to be treated with
special deference.

Both Feisal and Lawrence owed much of their authoritative leadership
to their recognition of the traditional independence of the tribes.
The gallant old brigands who had roamed freely all their lives over
the vast stretches of Arabia, making little private wars of their
own, were not to be commanded or conscripted; they had to be gently
cajoled into the bigger war and made to feel the sense of their
own importance.



  CHAPTER XIII


  AUDA ABU TAYI, THE BEDOUIN ROBIN HOOD


“By the grace of Allah, I, Auda Abu Tayi, warn you to quit Arabia
before the end of Ramadan. We Arabs want this country to ourselves.
Unless this is done, by the beard of the Prophet, I declare you
proscribed, outlawed, and fair game for any one to kill.”

This was the official and personal declaration of war issued by
Auda Abu Tayi, the Howeitat chieftain, the greatest popular hero
of modern Arabian history, the most celebrated fighting man the
desert has produced in four generations. The proclamation was
addressed to the sultan of Turkey, to Djemal Pasha, the viceroy of
Syria, Palestine, and Arabia, and to the mutesarif of Kerak, who
was the Ottoman governor of the important district on the edge of
the desert near the southern end of the Dead Sea where Auda lived.
The Arabian revolution appealed to the Bedouin Robin Hood, largely
because it furnished him with an ideal excuse to declare personal
war against the Turkish government.

When Auda heard that Shereef Hussein had started a revolt against
the Turks, he and his fearless Howeitat followers jumped into their
saddles, galloped across the desert sands to Feisal’s headquarters,
and swore on the Koran that they would make the shereef’s enemies
their enemies. Then they all sat down to a banquet in honor of the
occasion. Suddenly old Auda uttered a potent Moslem oath and
reminded himself and his friends that he was wearing a set of
Turkish false teeth. Cursing the Turkish dentist who had made them,
he dashed out of the tent and smashed them on a rock. For two
months he was in agony and could eat only milk and boiled rice.
When Lawrence came down from Egypt, Auda’s mouth was giving him so
much trouble that he had to send to Cairo for a British dentist to
make the old brigand a special set of Allied teeth!

His undying loyalty and friendship proved a most valuable asset to
Hussein and the Allies in the Arabian campaign. Besides, he offered
his rich and rare experience in the kind of warfare suitable to
his country. With the exception of Lawrence, he has been the
greatest raider of modern Arabia. During the last seventeen years
he has killed seventy-five men in hand-to-hand combat; all of them
Arabs, for he does not include Turks in his game-book. I do not
think that his claim is far wrong, for he has been wounded
twenty-two times and in his battles has seen all his tribesmen hurt
and most of his relatives killed. His right arm is so stiff that
he can’t scratch himself and has to use a camel-stick. Although
the Howeitat territory is situated inland near the Gulf of Akaba,
Auda has led expeditions six hundred miles south to Mecca, north
as far as Aleppo, and a thousand miles east to Bagdad and Basra.
Occasionally the tables are turned on him. One year while he was
leading an expedition against Ibn Saud, the ruler of Central
Arabia, the Druses came down from Jebel Hauran, in the hills south
of Damascus, and spirited away all his camels. Auda took his loss
calmly and philosophically, but word of his misfortune reached the
ears of his friend, Nuri Shalaan, emir of Jauf, ruler of North
Central Arabia. In accordance with one of the unwritten laws of
the desert, Nuri Shalaan immediately sent Auda half of all his
possessions.

Old Auda prides himself on being the quintessence of Arabian
tradition. A hundred successful raids have taken him from his home
near the Dead Sea to all parts of the Arabian world. His loot he
dispenses in staggering hospitality. He talks long, loud, and
abundantly in a voice like a mountain torrent.

Although Auda has probably captured more loot on his raids than
any other Bedouin chieftain, he is a comparatively poor man as the
result of his lavish hospitality. The profits of a hundred
successful raids have provided entertainment for his friends. One
of his few remaining evidences of transitory wealth is an enormous
copper kettle around which twenty-five people can gather at a meal.
His hospitality is sometimes very inconvenient except to guests in
the last stages of starvation. One day, when he was helping me to
a heaped portion of rice and mutton from the copper kettle, I was
discussing the subject of camels with him and mentioned the fact
that we had none in my country except in the zoos. The old Bedouin
couldn’t understand this and insisted on presenting me with twenty
of his prize dromedaries to take back to America to start a camel
industry. It required all Lawrence’s persuasive eloquence to
convince him that it was impossible for me to accept the regal gift
on account of the difficulty of transporting his camels half-way
around the world.

In May, 1918, the Turks sent a large number of camels down from
Syria. They put them into an impromptu corral at Maan railway
station. Auda heard of this, and at the head of a small party of
twelve of his tribesmen he dashed boldly into Maan. There were
thousands of Turkish soldiers all around, but before they realized
what had occurred Auda had rounded up twenty-five of the camels
and had driven them off at a twenty-five-mile-an-hour gallop. He
was full of such pranks as this and recounted his adventures
afterward with great gusto.

One of the most amazing bits of brigandage in Auda’s long and lurid
career was when he held up his intimate friend and prince. Feisal
was on his way across the desert on an expedition and had four
thousand pounds in gold coin. Unluckily his route lay through
Auda’s country, and somehow the latter got to know about the
treasure. So he insisted that Feisal and retinue remain as his
guests until they had given the old pirate three thousand out of
the four thousand sovereigns. Auda, of course, did not use force;
he merely intimated that he was entitled to the gold!

Auda Abu Tayi is a handsome old chieftain, a pure desert type. He
is tall, straight, and powerful, and, although sixty years of age,
as active and sinewy as a cougar. His lined and haggard face is
pure Bedouin. He has a broad, low forehead, high, sharp, hooked
nose, greenish brown eyes inclined to slant outward, black pointed
beard, and mustache tinged with gray. The name “Auda” means “Father
of Flying,” which recalls the day on which he made his first
aëroplane flight. Instead of showing any fear he urged the pilot,
Captain Furness-Williams, to take him higher and higher.

The old hero is as hard-headed as he is hot-headed. He receives
advice, criticism, or abuse with a smile as constant as it is
charming, but nothing on earth would make him change his mind or
obey an order or follow a course of which he disapproves. He is
modest, simple as a child, honest, kind-hearted and affectionate,
and warmly loved even by those to whom he is most trying—his
friends. His hobby is to concoct fantastic tales about himself and
to relate fictitious but humorously horrible stories concerning
the private life of his host or guests. He takes wild delight in
making his friends uncomfortable. One time he strolled into the
tent of his cousin, Mohammed, and roared out for the benefit of
all present how villainously his kinsman had behaved at El Wejh.
He told how Mohammed had bought a beautiful necklace for one of
his wives. But, alas, Mohammed met a strange woman, a very beautiful
strange woman in El Wejh who was as fascinating as starlight, and,
succumbing to her charms, he presented her with the necklace. It
was a wonderful necklace with gems that sparkled as the stars, with
blues that recalled the seas and reds of desert sunsets. Most
eloquently Auda discoursed on the lady’s charms. On the other side
of the partition the women of Mohammed’s household heard of their
lord and master’s perfidy. Although the tale was mischievously
fabricated, there was a great commotion in the household of
Mohammed, and his life was made unbearable for several weeks.

Auda’s home is on a mud flat eighty miles east of Akaba. During
his association with Lawrence in the Arabian campaign, he picked
up many interesting details of life in Europe. His eyes sparkled
at tales of hotels and cabarets and palaces, and he was suddenly
fired with the determination to abandon his tent for a house as
splendid as any Sidi Lawrence had known in London.

The first problem that confronted him was the question of labor.
This was solved by raiding a Turkish garrison and taking fifty
prisoners, whom he put to work digging wells. After he had finished
that job, he promised them their liberty if they would build him
a beautiful house. They constructed one with forty rooms and four
towers, but on account of the scarcity of timber in the desert, no
one could figure out how to roof such an enormous building. Auda,
keen as a steel trap, immediately worked out a plan. Summoning his
warriors, he started out across the sands to the Pilgrim’s Railway,
over-powered the passing Turkish patrol, and carried off thirty
telegraph-poles, which now form the framework of his desert palace.



  Photograph: SAND STORM ROLLING DOWN ON KHARTOUM



  Photograph: THE WALDORF-ASTORIA OF ARABIA—INCLUDING 200 ROOMS
    WITH ACCOMMODATIONS FOR 1000 GUESTS WITH ALL THE LATEST ARABIAN
    CONVENIENCES EXCEPTING BATH, ’PHONE,  LIGHT, HEAT, OR SERVICE



  Photograph: THE LAST RESTING-PLACE OF THE MOTHER OF US ALL



Even a forty-room palace is none too large for Auda, who has not
been strictly abstemious in his nuptial aspirations. In fact he is
noted throughout Arabia for his reckless polygamy. Every Mohammedan
is permitted to have four wives at one time—if he can support them.
Old Auda has been married twenty-eight times and is ambitious to
raise that record to fifty before he dies. But in spite of his
numerous marriages he has only one son living. All the others have
been killed in raids and feuds. Young Mohammed Abu Tayi was eleven
years old when I saw him, but so undersized that his father could
pick him up by the scruff of the neck and swing him into the saddle
on his camel with one hand. When the caravan was on the march at
night, his father, afraid that Mohammed when asleep would fall off
the camel, often picked him up and stuffed him into one of his own
saddle-bags, where the boy would spend the night. The youngster
fought beside his father and Colonel Lawrence through the whole
Arabian campaign.

Auda’s enthusiasm in making the Turks his enemies to the _n_th
power—pouring into the cause all the hatred he had reserved for
personal feuds—brought many of the tribes to Lawrence’s personal
standard. Lawrence once remarked that Auda was somewhat like Cæsar
in his ability to keep around him a free country of faithful
friends, and around that a great ring of enemies. Even the renowned
Nuri Shalaan, as well as many other powerful chiefs friendly to
Auda, were in constant terror lest they should offend him.

The Howeitat tribe was formerly under the control of Ibn Rashid
and his tribe, which long roamed the North Arabian Desert. Later,
under the leadership of Ibn Jazi, the tribe broke up into discordant
sections. The Abu Tayi subsection is the joint work of Auda, the
fighting man, and Mohammed el Dheilan, the thinker. Ibn Jazi
mistreated a Sherari guest of Auda’s, and the proud and hospitable
chief was infuriated. In the fifteen-year feud that followed,
Annad, Auda’s eldest son and the pride of his heart, was killed.
This feud between the two sections of the Howeitat was one of
Feisal’s greatest difficulties in the operations around Akaba and
Maan. It drove Hamed el Arar, the Ibn Jazi leader of today, into
the arms of the Turks, while Saheiman Abu Tayi and the rest of the
subtribe went to El Wejh to join Lawrence and Feisal. Auda made
peace with his sworn enemies at the request of Feisal, and it was
the hardest thing the old man ever had to do in his life. The death
of Annad killed all his hopes and ambitions for the Abu Tayi and
has made his life seem a bitter failure. But Feisal ruled that his
followers were to have no more blood-feuds and no Arab enemies
except the adherents of Ibn Rashid in North Arabia, who have
carried on perpetual and bitter warfare with all the other tribes
of the desert. Feisal’s success in burying the innumerable hatchets
of the Hedjaz is pregnant with promise. In all Arab minds a shereef
now stands above tribes, men, sheiks and tribal jealousies. A
shereef now exercises the prestige of peacemaker and independent
authority.



  CHAPTER XIV


  KNIGHTS OF THE BLACK TENTS


After Auda, Mohammed el Dheilan is the chief figure of the Abu
Tayi. He is taller than his cousin and massively built; a
square-headed thoughtful man of forty-five, with a melancholy humor
and a kind heart carefully concealed beneath it. He acts as master
of ceremonies for the Abu Tayi, is Auda’s right-hand man, and
frequently appears as his spokesman. Mohammed is greedy, richer
than Auda, deeper and more calculating. Allah has endowed him with
the eloquence of an Arabian Demosthenes; his tribesmen address him
as “Father of Eloquence.” In a tribal council he can always be
relied upon to persuade his audience to accept his views. He can
wield a sword right lustily too, and is “a drinker of the milk of
war” second only in prowess to the mighty Auda.

Zaal Ion Motlog is Auda’s nephew. He is twenty-five, something of
a dandy, with polished teeth, carefully curled mustache, and a
trimmed and pointed beard. He, too, is greedy and sharp-witted but
without Mohammed’s mentality. Auda has been training him for years
as chief scout to the tribe, so that he is a most daring and
acceptable commander in a _ghazu._

Nuri Shalaan, emir of Jauf, is not such a picturesque character as
his friend and kinsman, Auda Abu Tayi, but as ruler of the Rualla
Anazeh tribe, two hundred thousand strong, the largest single tribe
in the desert, occupying nearly all the territory between Damascus
and Bagdad, he is one of the great men of Arabia. His friendship
was most vital to Hussein and Lawrence in the taking of Deraa and
Damascus, and might have been of tremendous weight to Feisal now
that he has been placed on the throne of Mesopotamia had he not
sold himself to the French in Syria in 1919, after the war. Lawrence
would not let Nuri declare war on the Turks until the last minute,
because Nuri’s allegiance would have meant too many mouths to feed.
Nuri Shalaan was the deadly enemy of Ibn Rashid, who coöperated
with the Turks, but who since the Great War has lost his portion
of Arabia to Sultan Ibn Saud of Nejd. At one time Nuri Shalaan
wanted an armorer. He captured Ibn Bani of Hail, Ibn Rashid’s
armorer, the most skilled man of his craft in Arabia, and put him
in prison with his own smith, Ibn Zarih. He gave them both forges
and tools and declared that they should languish in prison until
Ibn Zarih could make swords and daggers that could not be
distinguished from those of Ibn Bani. They sweated and worked and
the forges were kept burning until late every night, and finally,
after many weeks, Ibn Zarih produced a wonderful dagger with an
edge that could almost cut the wind. Nuri was satisfied; he released
his two prisoners and sent Ibn Bani back to his country with rich
presents. Nuri Shalaan was an old man of seventy when the Arab
revolution broke out. He was always ambitious and determined to be
a leader. Thirty years ago he killed his two brothers and made
himself chief of the tribe. He ruled his people with a rod of iron,
and they were practically the only Bedouins who obeyed orders. If
they fail him he has their heads cut off; but in spite of his
cruelty his followers all admire and are proud of him. Most Arab
sheiks talk like magpies, but Nuri remains silent in the tribal
council and settles everything with a few final clean-cut words of
decision. Until the end of the war he had preferred tent life to
that of all the palaces from Bagdad to the Bosporus, and kept great
state in the largest black goat’s-hair tent in the desert, where
sheep were slaughtered every few minutes for the endless stream of
guests. He owned the best wheat land in Syria and the finest camels
and horses. He is so rich he does not know how to measure his
wealth.

Motlog Ibn Jemiann, sheik of the Beni Atiyeh, south of Maan, added
four thousand fighting men to King Hussein’s forces. He is
hard-working and brave as a lion. He helped Lawrence blow up trains
near Maan and was in the thick of the fray whenever there were
railway stations to be captured or any other little jobs of a
particularly dangerous nature. During the scouting around Maan,
two of Lawrence’s officers were trying to find an ancient Roman
road in the desert. Motlog, always eager for adventure, went with
them. In the deep sand their Ford careened madly from left to right
and then at one point swerved so sharply that Motlog was thrown on
his head. The officers jumped out of the car and ran back to pick
him up and apologize to him, thinking he would be very angry. But
the old sheik brushed off the sand and said ruefully, “Please don’t
be offended with me; I haven’t learnt to ride one of these things
yet.” He regarded riding in a motor-car as an art that had to be
mastered just like riding a camel.

The Robber Harith Clan may not have been in the good graces of
Hussein before the war, but their shereef, Ali Ibn Hussein, a youth
of ‘nineteen, was responsible for converting nearly the whole of
the Hauran to the revolt. He was the most reckless, most impertinent,
and jolliest fellow in the Arabian army. The fastest runner in the
desert, he could catch up with a camel in his bare feet and swing
into the saddle with one hand while holding his rifle with the
other. When Ali went into battle he took off all his clothing
except his drawers. He said it was the cleanest way to get wounded.
He had a wild sense of humor and made jokes about the king in his
presence. He was one of the two shereefs in the Hedjaz who did not
stand in terror of King Hussein.

The other was Shereef Shakr, a cousin of Feisal and the richest
man in the Hedjaz. He was the only big shereef who plaited his
hair, and, in addition, he encouraged lice in it, to show his
respect for the old Bedouin proverb, “A well-populated head is a
sign of a generous mind.” His home was in Mecca, but he spent most
of his time in the saddle with the Bedouin tribesmen.

These are a few of the leading chieftains, in some of whom
enthusiasm for Arabian nationalism had to be kindled, others
cajoled by appeals to their vanity, and almost all inflamed with
the zest for war on a big scale—the game they had known and played
at from childhood. When they had once sworn allegiance they were
as true as steel. Without their loyalty and dauntless courage and
epic love of blood-curdling adventure the Arabian campaign would
have been a dream on paper fabricated by an impractical young
archæologist.

In his dealings with Auda and other Arab chiefs, Lawrence found
their rich sense of humor an important asset. Make an Arab laugh,
and you can persuade him to do most things. Arabic is a solemn
language, full of ceremony and stateliness; and Lawrence, who had
an unusual knowledge of the various dialects spoken in Arabia, made
the discovery that the direct translation into Arabic of ordinary
colloquial English, spiced with wit, delighted his hearers. Another
highly useful weapon in Colonel Lawrence’s mental armory was the
faculty of mastering the unexpected with some inspired improvisation.
Time and again he happened upon a desperate situation from which
there was no obvious means of escape. In the space of a few seconds
his alert brain would work out some seemingly fantastic but really
brilliant method of dealing with the emergency.

Such an incident was one of his many adventures in the Syrian
Desert. He was at the town of Azrak among the shifting sand-dunes
southeast of Damascus, when a courier brought news that some
Turkish spies were in a caravan of Syrian merchants which was on
its way to the Arabian army supply-base at Akaba, three hundred
miles to the south. He immediately decided that in order to draw
the teeth of the spies he must reach Akaba either in company with
the caravan or soon after its arrival. Normally the journey from
Azrak to Akaba is twelve days by camel, and already the Syrian
caravan had a start of nine days.

Realizing that his followers could not stand the forced pace at
which he meant to travel, Lawrence took with him but one man—a
half-breed Haurani—who was famous in the North Arabian Desert for
his endurance. The pair were racing over the ridges between Azrak
and Bair, eighty miles south of the camp from which they started,
when suddenly a dozen Arabs appeared over the edge of a sand-dune
and galloped their camels down the slope to cut off the strangers.
As they approached, the Arabs shouted a request that Lawrence and
his companion should dismount, and at the same time announced
themselves as friends and members of the Jazi-Howeitat tribe. When
only thirty yards away they themselves dismounted by way of
encouraging the lone couple to do likewise. But Lawrence had
recognized the Arabs as of the Beni-Sakr, allies of the Turks and
blood-enemies of most of the Bedouin tribes that were fighting for
King Hussein and Emir Feisal. It was known to the Beni-Sakr that
gold passed up and down the caravan route, and they were out
looking for loot.

This particular sector was the only war-time trade-route between
Syria and Arabia, along which the merchants of Syria had for many
months journeyed to Akaba for the purchase of Manchester cotton.
Lawrence used cotton both as an aid to propaganda and as a means
of getting as much gold as possible from Syria and Turkey. The
Ottoman Empire needed cotton urgently, and for this reason the
military authorities allowed traders to pass back and forth through
the lines. When they reached Akaba. Lawrence and the Arab leaders
would make converts among them by preaching Arab Nationalistic
doctrines. At the same time they would collect much valuable
information regarding conditions in Turkey. The merchants were also
useful in smuggling down to Akaba German field-glasses which
Lawrence needed for the equipment of his desert troops.

Meanwhile, the dismounted marauders of the Beni-Sakr stood on the
sand and fingered their rifles expectantly, while still passing
friendly greetings. Of a sudden Lawrence grinned so genially that
they became mystified.

“Come near; I want to whisper something to you,” he said to their
leader. Then bending down from the saddle of his camel he asked,
“Do you know what your name is?”

The sheik looked speechless and rather amazed. Lawrence continued,
“I think it must be ‘Terrace’ (Procurer)!”

This is the most terrible insult that one can offer a Bedouin. The
Beni-Sakr leader was dumfounded and rather nervous. He could not
understand how an ordinary traveler would dare to say such a thing
to him in the open desert when numbers and arms were on his side.
Before the sheik had time to recover himself, Lawrence remarked
pleasantly:

“May Allah give you peace!”

Quietly telling the Haurani to come along, he swung off across the
sand. The men of Beni-Sakr remained half bewildered until the pair
had ridden about a hundred yards. Then they recovered their senses
and began shooting; but the blond Prince of Mecca galloped over
the nearest ridge and escaped. Bullets, by the way, have but little
immediate effect on a camel that is traveling at twenty miles an
hour.

Both Lawrence and his Haurani nearly killed their camels during
the journey. They rode on an average of twenty-two hours a day.
From dawn to setting sun they crossed the burning sands, only
stopping then for a moment’s rest for their camels. When they
reached Auda Abu Tayi’s country, east of the southern end of the
Dead Sea, they exchanged their mounts for fresh beasts. They
covered the whole distance of three hundred miles in just three
days, a record for fast camel trekking that should stand for many
years.

This weird adventure was but one of a hundred that befell Lawrence.
I heard of another which explains why he always carried a Colt
revolver of an early frontier model.

Some years ago, while wandering in Asia Minor, near Marash, a fever
came upon him, and he made for Birgik, the nearest village. He
happened to meet a Turkoman. They are a semi-nomadic crowd of
Mongol descent, men with crooked eyes and faces that look as though
they had been modeled in butter and then left out in the sun. He
was not quite sure of his directions and asked the Turkoman to
point out the way. The reply was, “Right across those low hills to
the left.” As Lawrence turned away from him the Mongol sprang on
his back, and they had a bit of a dog-fight on the ground for a
few minutes. But Lawrence had walked more than a thousand miles
and, apart from the fever, was nearly done up. Soon he found
himself underneath.

“He sat on my stomach, pulled out my colt,” said Lawrence, “pressed
it to my temple, and pulled the trigger many times. But the
safety-catch was on. The Turkoman was a primitive fellow and knew
very little about revolver mechanism. He threw the weapon away in
disgust and proceeded to pound my head with a rock until I was no
longer interested. After taking everything I had, he made off. I
went to the village and got the inhabitants to help me chase the
scoundrel. We caught him and made him disgorge the things he’d
relieved me of. Since then I’ve always had a profound respect for
a Colt, and have never been without one.”



  CHAPTER XV


  MY LORD THE CAMEL


No knowledge that could increase his influence over the peoples of
Arabia was neglected by Lawrence. He even made a minute study of
that beast of mystery, the camel, the character and quality of
which few Arabs are altogether familiar with, although it plays
such an all-important part in their lives. Lawrence is the only
European I have ever met who possesses “camel instinct”—a quality
that implies intimate acquaintance with the beast’s habits, powers,
and innumerable idiosyncrasies. Auda Abu Tayi, the Bedouin Robin
Hood, had this instinct developed to an unusually high degree.

There are six different species of camels found in Central Arabia,
from whence come the finest breeds. The Bedouin call their country
“the Mother of the Camel.” Arabian camels have but one hump; in
fact, most of the Arabs have never even heard of the two-humped
variety, which is found only in Central Asia, to the northwest of
Persia, chiefly in the Gobi Desert. The two-humped breed is slow
and of little use except as a beast of burden. The one-humped camel
is the dromedary, which is the Greek word for a camel that runs.

The chief unit of wealth in Arabia is the camel. A man is not
spoken of as owning so many apartment-houses or country estates,
but as owning so many camels. From biblical down to modern times,
wars have been waged in the desert for the possession of camels.
One tribe will swoop down upon another and steal all its camels;
then that tribe will mount its horses, dash across the desert, and
drive off all the camels of another tribe. So, in the course of
twelve months, one camel may become the stolen property of half a
dozen different tribes. The very existence of human life in the
desert depends upon the camel. The Arabs use it not only as a beast
of burden; they drink its milk and use its hair for making cloth,
and when it becomes old they kill it and use its flesh for food.
Camel steak in Arabia is regarded much as blubber is among the
Eskimos, but the average European would prefer to worry along on
caviar and pâté de foie gras.

The camel is practically the only animal that can exist on the
scant vegetation of the desert. Its teeth are so long that it can
chew cactus without the thorns pricking either its lips or the roof
of its mouth. Although camels can go for long periods without
water, when they _do_ drink they more than make up for lost time.
It takes a half-hour to water them, but each camel can accommodate
a nice little swallow of twenty gallons. It is very irritating when
suffering from thirst in the desert to hear your camel drawing on
the copious reserve of water inside its body. At such times the
Arabs, when in dire straits, will kill a camel and drink the water
in its stomach. The water is of a greenish color and has a greenish
taste, but one can’t be too fastidious when perishing from thirst.

In judging a camel, some of the many things to be considered are
the length of the inside of the belly, the way the beast lifts its
feet, the way it carries its head, the depth of the neck, the
length of the front leg, the length of the front and back shoulders,
and the girth and shape of the hump. A very long leg is particularly
desirable, as is a small circumference around the waist. A camel
should be neither too fat nor too thin. The hump, which should be
of hard, fatless muscle, is of paramount importance. The dromedary
actually seems to live on its hump, and if it be worked too hard
the hump gradually disappears. If it has no hump, or a low one or
a thin one or a fat one, the animal is of little value and will
break down in a short time. Age is judged by the teeth, as with
the horse. Camels usually live for about twenty-five years, being
in their prime between the ages of four and fourteen. Over good
ground first-class Arabian dromedaries can trot up to twenty-one
miles an hour, canter up to twenty-eight miles an hour, and gallop
up to thirty-two with their legs going like huge pistons. For a
whole day’s travel, however, the most desirable pace is a jog-trot
of seven miles an hour. The ordinary speed for a long journey of
many days across the desert is only about four and a half miles an
hour; and if the journey extends over hundreds of miles, it is
advisable always to keep the camel at a walk. Lawrence’s feat in
making a forced trek of three hundred miles in three days was
therefore looked upon by his followers as almost a miracle. A good
camel makes absolutely no sound when it walks; a trait which is of
great assistance both to the Bedouins during their night raids and
to desert traders who fear assault. The Arab teaches his mount not
to whine, and a whole caravan may pass within twenty yards of a
tent without being heard by the occupants.



  Photograph: THE MOSQUE OF THE HOLY KAABA



  Photograph: COLONEL LAWRENCE AND THE AUTHOR



The winter of 1917-18 was a severe one for the camels. Lawrence’s
army was at Tafileh in January, at an altitude of five thousand
feet. The snow drifted to a depth of four feet, impassable for the
camels unless their riders dismounted and dug a path with their
hands. Many of them, both camels and Arabs, perished from the cold.

Lawrence sent a request to headquarters, Cairo, for heavy clothing
and boots for his men. Instead of receiving them, he got a wireless
message telling him that Arabia was a “tropical country”!

One morning an Arab column awoke on a hillside to find that snow
had drifted over their crouching camels. They dug them out with
the iron spoons which are used for roasting coffee-beans, but all
were dead. Lawrence and his men had to walk barefoot through the
snow for miles before they reached a military encampment. Another
time thirty-four men started from Akaba for Tafileh on camels, and
only one man succeeded in getting through alive. The Arab army had
plenty of camels at this time, thanks, partly, to Prince Zeid. Some
months previous the Turks had sent a large caravan of supplies
toward Medina from Hail, Ibn Rashid’s capital in Central Arabia.
Zeid and his men surprised it at Hanakieh, killed thirty Turks,
captured two hundred and fifty more and also three thousand camels,
two thousand sheep, four mountain-guns, and several thousand
rifles.

Although “the camel is an intricate animal and calls for skilled
labor in the handling,” according to Colonel Lawrence, “she yields
a remarkable return. We had no system of supply: each man was
self-contained and carried on the saddle from the sea-base, at
which the raid started, six weeks’ food for himself. The six weeks’
ration for ordinary men was a half-bag of flour, forty-five pounds
in weight. Luxurious feeders carried some rice also for variety.
Each man baked for himself, kneading his own flour into unleavened
cakes and warming it in the ashes of a fire. We carried about a
pint of drinking-water each, since the camels required to come to
water on the average every three days, and there was no advantage
in our being richer than our mounts. Some of us never drank between
wells, but those were hardy men; most of us drank a lot at each
well, and had a drink during the intermediate dry day. In the heat
of summer Arabian camels will do about two hundred and fifty miles
comfortably between drinks and this represents about three days’
vigorous marching.

“The country is not so dry as it is painted, and this radius was
always more than we needed. Wells are seldom more than one hundred
miles apart. An easy day’s march was fifty miles: an emergency
march might be up to one hundred and ten miles in a day.

“The six weeks’ food gave us a range of over a thousand miles out
and home; and that (like the pint of water) was more than ever we
needed, even in so large a country as Arabia. It was possible (for
me, the camel novice in the army, ‘painful’ was a better word) to
ride fifteen hundred miles in a month without revictualing; and
there was never a fear of starvation, for each of us was riding on
two hundred pounds of potential meat, and when food lacked we would
stop and eat the weakest of our camels. Exhausted camel is poor
food, but cheaper killing than a fat one; and we had to remember
that our future efficiency depended upon the number of good camels
at our disposal. They lived on grazing as we marched (we never gave
them grain or fodder); and after their six weeks on the road they
would be worn thin, and have to be sent to pasture for some months’
rest, while we called out another tribe in replacement, or found
fresh riding-beasts.”

Tradition says that the horse originated in Arabia. The most
beautiful and symmetrical horses are found there. They do not,
however, have the greatest powers of endurance; neither are they
the fleetest.

The Arabs are very fond and proud of their horses. They are really
domestic animals, and it is by no means uncommon for them to occupy
the same tent as their master. The pedigrees of some of them can
be traced back to the fifth century, and registered mares are
seldom sold, although stallions are sometimes given away to
distinguished foreigners. It is maintained that a female, whether
horse or camel, has much more highly developed powers of endurance.
The Arabs oil the hoofs of their horses to keep them from slipping
on the hot sand, and feed them on boiled goat’s-meat to give them
staying powers. They are seldom given all the water they desire to
drink. Even as colts they are continually stinted of water so that
they may become inured to thirst and suffer as little as possible
when crossing the dry parts of the Arabian Desert. Many of the
water-holes of the desert are five days’ travel apart. A horse, of
course, cannot go so long without water; a camel can, however, and
so an Arabian horse will travel by the side of a camel and drink
the camel’s milk, and in that manner make the distance from one
water-hole to another.

The foregoing is but a small fraction of the horse and camel lore
familiar to a Bedouin expert. After years of careful study in the
Arabian and Syrian deserts, Lawrence confessed to me that often he
could not size up his dromedary correctly.



  Photograph: PANORAMA OF AKABA



  Photograph: COLONEL JOYCE



  CHAPTER XVI


  ABDULLAH THE POCK-MARKED, AND THE STORY OF FERRAJ AND DAOUD


Abdullah, the pock-marked, undersized, fiery little Bedouin who
commanded Lawrence’s personal body-guard, although in appearance
a dried-up stick of a man, is one of the most daring and chivalrous
sons of Ishmael that ever rode a dromedary. He would take keen
delight in tackling ten men by himself. Apart from his fearlessness,
he was a valuable lieutenant, because he knew how to deal with
unruly members of the body-guard. Lawrence would urge his followers
on with the promise of extravagant rewards—gold, jewels, and
beautiful clothes—if they succeeded. Abdullah would promise them
a sound beating if they failed, and the certainty that he would
fulfil his threat carried at least as much weight with the
body-guard as did Lawrence’s milder method. As for Abdullah himself,
his most frequent boast was that he had served under all the
princes of the desert and had been imprisoned by every one of them.

The English shereef’s personal body-guard, consisting of eighty
carefully picked men, was the corps _d’élite_ of the desert. All
its men were famous fighters who possessed powers of endurance
which would enable them to ride hard for a day and a night on end,
if necessary. They were required to be ready for a raid on the
Turks at any moment, and always to keep up with their leader on
the trek. No man was accepted who could not, with one hand free,
leap into the camel-saddle at the trot while carrying a rifle in
the other. Taking it all round, the bodyguard was an extraordinary
collection of mettlesome, gay-spirited, good-natured scalawags.

Its members were devoted to their Anglo-Bedouin shereef; but to
guard against the possibility of a conspiracy among them, never
more than two men were selected from each tribe, so that intertribal
jealousy might prevent any group from plotting against their
leader. Nearly every man in the Hedjaz army wanted to belong to
the body-guard, because Lawrence took it on all of his raiding,
bridge-blowing, and train-wrecking expeditions, “stunts” which
provided much loot and many thrills—gifts dear to the heart of the
Bedouin. Then, too, the pay was greater than that given to any of
the other volunteers in the Arabian army. Furthermore, they received
a liberal allowance for costly raiment, for they spent all their
money on clothes, and when gathered in a body they produced an
effect similar to that of an Oriental flower-garden.

A familiar saying among them was that they might as well spend
their gold on clothes and a good time, since Allah might take them
to paradise at any moment. Among Colonel Lawrence’s personal
retinue the percentage of casualties was far greater than among
other regulars and irregulars of Feisal’s army, for they were
continually being sent across the desert on dangerous missions.
Frequently they were despatched through the Turkish lines to act
as spies, a service for which the body-guard was especially
suitable, since it contained at least one man from each district
between Mecca and Aleppo. Lawrence always arrogated to himself more
than his full share of these hazardous missions.

To accompany Lawrence and his body-guard on an expedition was a
fantastic experience. First rode the young shereef, incongruously
picturesque with his Anglo-Saxon face, gorgeous head-dress, and
beautiful robes. Likely enough, if the party were moving at walking
pace, he would be reading and smiling to himself over the brilliant
satire of Aristophanes in the original. Then in a long, irregular
column his Bedouin “sons” followed in their rainbow-colored
garments, swaying to the rhythm of the camel gait. And whether they
were passing over the sands east of Akaba, or the stony hill
country of Edom and Moab, they always sang and jested.

At either end of the cavalcade was a warrior-poet. One of them
would begin to chant a verse, and each man, all along the column,
would take his turn to cap the poet’s words with lines of the same
meter. There were war-songs and songs that caused the camels to
lower their heads and move at a faster pace. Often in the verses
the men commented on each other’s love-affairs or on the Emir
Feisal or Sidi (Lord) Lawrence.

“I wish he would pay us another pound a month.” This, decorated
with rhetorical flourishes in Arabic, was the theme of the
body-guard’s song one day.

Another time it was: “I wonder if Allah has seen the head-cloth
which has the good fortune to cover our Lord Lawrence’s head? It
is not a good head-cloth. The Lord Lawrence should give it me.” As
a matter of fact, the head-cloths that Shereef Lawrence wore were
more resplendent than any they had ever seen. His playful “sons”
coveted them.

The harmonic scale of Arabian music is different from ours, so that
to Western ears unused to it Arabian singing sounds like a medley
of discords. Yet the Bedouin delighted in Western music churned
out by a phonograph that Lawrence brought from Cairo. Its success
encouraged a Scotch sergeant in Akaba to provide some instruments
and organize a band. He helped the Arab bandsmen to create an
Arabian national anthem and taught them to play “Annie Laurie” and
“Auld Lang Syne” after a fashion. The Scotch airs we could stand
for a time, even though every instrument was out of tune and every
man chose his own key; but whenever the Arabs practised their own
national anthem around the camp we preferred swimming and left at
once for a deserted island down the gulf for a dip in the surf just
below the ruin of a Crusader castle, where Godfrey de Bouillon and
his knights had bathed a thousand years before us.

The Bedouin body-guard’s sense of humor sometimes took the form of
practical jokes. If one of their number fell asleep in his saddle,
a companion would charge his camel straight at the slumberer and
knock him off. Whenever their Lord left them for a visit to Cairo
or to Allenby’s headquarters, most of his body-guard managed to
get themselves imprisoned by the Emir Feisal as a result of their
wild humor and general unruliness. Nobody but Lawrence could handle
his devils, as they were called.

Once, having just returned to Akaba from Egypt, he wanted to set
out on a secret mission without delay. As usual, he found the
majority of his personal followers in the lockup. Among the
prisoners were two specially daring men named Ferraj and Daoud.
Lawrence immediately sent for Sheik Yussef, the civil governor of
Akaba, and asked what had happened. Yussef laughed and cursed, then
laughed again.

“I had a beautiful white camel,” he said, “and one night she
strayed away. Next morning I heard a great commotion in the street,
and when I went out I found every one in the bazaar laughing
uproariously at an animal with blue legs and a red head. Not
without difficulty I recognized it as my camel. Ferraj and Daoud
were found at the waterfront washing red henna and blue indigo dye
off their arms, yet they denied all knowledge of my beautiful white
camel. Allah will pardon me for doubting them.”

Ferraj and Daoud were well known as inseparable in a land where
lonely desert and the need for mutual protection called for close
friendship. David and Jonathan were not more intimate than Ferraj
and Daoud, until, as an eastern story-teller might say, there came
to them the Destroyer of Delights and the Garnerer of Graveyards.
Daoud died of fever in Akaba, whereupon Ferraj became intensely
miserable and soon afterward committed suicide by galloping his
camel headlong into the Turks.

Occasionally members of Lawrence’s body-guard accompanied him to
Cairo. Those thus honored would don their most vivid robes, rouge
their lips, darken the hollows under their eyes with kohl, and
saturate themselves with bottles of scent. Then, bristling with
weapons, they swaggered contemptuously past the town Arabs of
Cairo, ogling the veiled ladies, buying richly brocaded garments,
and causing much excitement, in which they reveled.

Abdullah, lieutenant of the body-guard, once traveled with his
leader to General Allenby’s headquarters at Ramleh. While Lawrence
was in consultation with the commander-in-chief, the Arab lieutenant
roamed off alone. Six hours passed, and he did not return. Then
Lawrence was informed by telephone that the assistant provost-marshal
had arrested the fiery little Arab because he looked like a hired
assassin who might be prowling around with the intention of shooting
General Allenby. Abdullah, said the assistant provost-marshal, had
explained through an interpreter that he was one of Sidi Lawrence’s
“sons” and demanded a ceremonious apology for having been arrested.
Meantime, he was eating up all the oranges in the quarters of the
head of the military police.

Punishment for the misdeeds of the various members of the body-guard
was difficult, for a nomad Arab can scarcely be imprisoned on his
camel, and he cares naught for words of reproof. A conscientious
beating from Abdullah was perhaps the most effective solution. A
common form of punishment among the Bedouins is to throw at a man’s
head a short dagger, so that it shall chop through the hair and
cause a superficial but very painful scalp wound. Bedouins who are
conscious of transgression sometimes wound themselves in this
manner, and then, with blood streaming over their faces, crave
pardon of the person they have wronged.



  CHAPTER XVII


  AN EYE FOR AN EYE AND A TOOTH FOR A TOOTH


In Arabia the Old Testament law of an eye for an eye, a tooth for
a tooth, a life for a life, still holds good; complicated feuds
drag on for centuries. A murderer can rarely escape the death
penalty; it is almost impossible for him to avoid being found by
the murdered man’s relatives somewhere in the desert sooner or
later. His only chance is to relinquish tent-dwelling and become
a townsman; and since the Bedouin regards people who live in
villages and cities as greatly inferior to him, he can seldom bring
himself to such an indignity.



  Photograph: LAWRENCE’S MOUNTAIN GUNS IN ACTION



  Photograph: LAWRENCE CONFERS WITH ARAB NATIONALISTS LEADERS
    FROM BAGDAD AND DAMASCUS



A peculiar feature of Arabian unwritten law is that for purposes
of retribution no distinction is drawn between accidental and
intentional manslaughter. If one Bedouin kills another, whether by
chance or design, it is customary for him to flee and send regrets
and explanations back by courier. Lawrence’s body-guard was involved
in an affair of this sort. During a raid an Arab climbed through
the window of a railway station and attempted to open the door from
the inside. Meanwhile, some of his companions were trying to batter
it open from without. One of them fired his rifle through a panel,
and when the door finally was forced, the man who had entered
through the window was lying dead. The Bedouin who had fired the
shot immediately dashed through the crowd, jumped on his horse,
and galloped off. Now, it is the custom that the slayer may avoid
the penalty of death by paying damages if the lost man’s relatives
are willing to accept money in lieu of life. In this case the
guards collected among themselves a sum of £100, which they sent
to the relatives, and all was well. The rate of exchange on an
ordinary life varies from £100 to £500. This particular fellow was
rather a bad lot, and so his companions of the bodyguard thought
£100 was ample. Shereefs (members of the Prophet’s family) have a
far higher blood value than other Arabs. Having killed one of them,
a slayer must forfeit not less than £1000, unless he has arranged
a bargain price with his victim’s family before committing the
deed.

Lawrence never met a case of treachery against himself among the
tribes with whom he established friendly relations, and even among
unfriendly tribes he encountered only one serious violation of the
laws of hospitality. Alone he had passed through the Turkish lines
for a tour of inspection among the enemy’s camps. He called on a
chieftain of the Beni-Sakr, a tribe which had been coöperating with
the Turks and Germans. The sheik broke the unwritten law of the
desert and attempted to double-cross his guest. He sent a courier
to some Turkish forces that were ten miles distant and, in the
meantime, attempted to persuade Lawrence to remain in his tent.
His intention was to betray his valuable visitor and claim the
£50,000 reward offered for the capture of the “uncrowned king of
Arabia.” But Lawrence’s uncanny insight into the minds of Orientals
caused him to surmise that there was villainy afoot, and he
hurriedly left the Beni-Sakr camp. The fate that befell the sheik
of the Beni-Sakr is instructive. Although he was one of the leaders
of a tribe considered hostile to the Arabs coöperating with
Lawrence, his own people gave him a cup of poisoned coffee because
he had been treacherous to a guest. The people of the Beni-Sakr
felt themselves disgraced by the act of their sheik.

The strict observance of the rules of desert hospitality is almost
a religion. If in his own district an Arab has a man at his mercy
and is about to kill him, the victim can usually save himself by
saying “_dakhilak,”_ an Arab word implying, “I have taken refuge
with you,” or, “I am in your tent and at your coffee-hearth as your
guest.” Among the Bedouins the protection is a sacred obligation.
The meaning of this magic word _“dakhilak”_ is one of the points
of difference between the nomads of Arabia and the town Arabs of
Syria. The Syrian uses it as a variation of “please,” which to a
Bedouin is a ghastly breach of etiquette.

In the gigantic task that he set himself, Lawrence had to win the
adherence not only of the wandering tribesmen but of the less
reliable Arabs of the towns and villages. He accomplished this by
taking into account the many differences between the two types,
and using correspondingly different methods. The Bedouin is of a
pure breed and to-day lives in much the same manner as he did three
thousand years ago when Abraham and Lot were wandering patriarchs.
The townsman, a mixture of all races in the East, has many a bar
sinister in his racial ancestry. The nomad is a sportsman, a lover
of personal liberty, and a natural poet. The villager is often
indolent, dirty, untrustworthy, and entirely mercenary. There are
even differences in the every-day observances of life; in the form
of salutation, for instance. The townsman shows his respect for
shereefs and other notables by kissing the hand, but the Bedouin
considers such action undignified and only performs it when he
wishes to convey the deepest reverence.

Although Lawrence received support from many town Arabs, it was
primarily the Bedouin who, under the guidance of Lawrence and
Feisal, carried the Arabian revolution from small, localized
beginnings to glorious success. The Bedouin passion for raiding
and looting was a valuable asset in the guerrilla campaign against
the Turks. But the true Bedouin is nearly always content with booty
and abhors the sight of blood. He will rob but will not otherwise
abuse a stranger.

The pure Arabs of the desert belong to a race that has one of the
oldest forms of civilization. They had a philosophy and literature
when the inhabitants of the British Isles were undeveloped savages.
They are one of the few peoples of the world whom the Romans failed
to conquer. Their primitiveness is due to the necessity of leading
a nomadic life, as they are obliged to follow their herds from
place to place in search of grass and water. They are wanderers on
the face of the earth; creatures who trek behind their camels
across the sand-dunes, who sleep under starry skies, and who live
as their forefathers lived when the human race was young.

Both the regulars and the irregulars in the Arabian army were paid
wages just the same as other Allied troops in other parts of the
world. They received their pay in gold coin, all of which was
supplied by the British Government. Lawrence usually had a bag or
two of sovereigns in his tent, and whenever a sheik came in and
asked for money, Lawrence would tell him to help himself. He
allowed them to keep all that they could take out of the bag in
one handful. A swarthy two-fisted Howeitat giant dropped in for a
cup of coffee and a cigarette one morning. In the richly ornamented
language of the people of the black tents he reminded Lawrence of
the valuable assistance that he had been rendering King Hussein.
Lawrence took the thinly veiled hint, and, pointing to his gold
bag in one corner, he asked his guest to help himself. The sheik
broke all records by picking up one hundred and forty-three
sovereigns in one hand!

The nomad tribes are amazed at the sordid lack of hospitality in
the towns. They despise their settled kinsmen for their selfishness.
In older times, just as to-day, the Arabs prided themselves on four
things: their poetry, their eloquence, their horsemanship, and then
hospitality. Among Arab legends are many which glorify and keep
alive the tradition of hospitality. One concerns three men who were
disputing in the sacred mosque of the Kaaba as to who was the most
liberal person in Mecca. One extolled the virtues of a certain
Abdullah, the son of the nephew of Jaafar, the uncle of Mohammed.
Another praised the generosity of Kais Ibn Said. The third
proclaimed Arabah, the aged sheik, to be the most liberal. At last
a bystander, to end the discussion and avoid bloodshed, suggested
that each should go and ask for assistance from the one whose
liberality he had extolled and return to the mosque, where the
evidence would be weighed and judgment given. This agreed upon,
they set forth. Abdullah’s friend going to him, found him mounting
his dromedary for lands beyond the horizon, and thus accosted him:
“O son of the nephew of the uncle of the apostle of Allah and
Father of Generosity, I am traveling and in dire necessity.” Upon
which Abdullah bade him take his camel with all that was upon her.
So he took the camel and found on her some vests of silk and five
thousand pieces of gold.

The second went to Kais Ibn Said. The latter’s servant told him
that his master was asleep and desired to know his mission. The
friend answered that being in want he came to ask Kais’s assistance.
The servant protested that he himself preferred to supply the
necessity rather than wake his master; so saying, he gave him a
purse of ten thousand pieces of gold, all the money in his master’s
house, and likewise directed him to go to the caravansary with a
certain token and take therefrom a camel and a slave. When Kais
awoke, his servant informed him of what had occurred. Kais was so
much pleased that he gave the servant his freedom, at the same time
upbraiding him for not arousing him. “By my life!” he said, “would
that thou hadst called me that I could have given him more.”

The third man went to Arabah and met the old sheik coming out of
his house on his way to noonday prayers at the Kaaba. His eyesight
having failed him, he was supported by two slaves. When the friend
made known his plight, Arabah let go the slaves and, clapping his
hands together in the name of Allah, loudly lamented his misfortune
in having no money, but he offered to give him his two slaves. The
man refused his offer, whereupon Arabah protested that since he
would not accept them he must give them their liberty. Saying this,
he left the slaves and groped his way along the wall. On the return
of the adventurers a unanimous judgment was rendered in favor of
Arabah as the most generous of the three. “May Allah reward him!”
cried they with fervor.

This legend may well be founded on fact, for one sees many examples
of this spirit of liberality, a liberality which increases one’s
admiration for these children of Allah. Lawrence, recognizing
generosity to be a cardinal virtue with the Arabs, made it a point
to excel them in this as well as in bravery, physical endurance,
and nimbleness of wit, which they so much admire. After the first
successes, which enabled him to gain the confidence of his own
government, he brought caravans laden with presents rich and rare,
and bewildered them with a prodigality surpassing even the legends
in the classic poems recited round their camp-fires and extolling
the generosity of the califs of old.

The Bedouins were all particularly fond of wrist-watches, revolvers,
and field-glasses, so that Lawrence used to take two or three
camels laden with trinkets of that sort to give away. He also gave
his men from fifty to one hundred pounds of ammunition each day,
and they always shot it off into the air regardless of whether they
were fighting or not! In most armies if a man fires off a single
round of ammunition without the permission of his commanding
officer, he is court-martialed. The Arabs shot at every sparrow
they saw, and one day, when a false rumor came in to us at Akaba
that Maan had been captured by Feisal’s chief of staff, General
Nuri Bey, thousands of rounds were fired wildly into the sky. If
the Bedouins who came into the supply-bases along the Red Sea coast
happened to see a British officer strolling along with nothing but
a riding-crop or a stick, they would shake their heads, stroke
their beards, and say: “Mad Anglesi! Mad Anglesi!” But if the
officer were wandering about with a rifle blazing away at every
rock or bird in sight, they would remark in the Arabian equivalent:
“I say, these blighters are not such silly asses after all. Really,
they are quite sane, don’t you know.”

Like the sepoys of India in the days of Clive, the Bedouins refused
to clean their rifles with grease made from pork, simply because
the Mohammedan religion teaches them that pork is unclean. So
Lawrence either had to clean all the rifles in the Arabian army
himself or provide rifles that did not have to be cleaned. He
solved this problem by equipping them with German nickel-steel
rifles which Allenby had captured on the Palestine front, rifles
that could survive a year’s service without being cleaned.

The freedom of the desert has been his for thousands of years; so
naturally the Bedouin is independent by nature. “Discipline” and
“obedience” are unknown words to him. Probably none of Lawrence’s
men would have made a high record in the senior examinations at
Sandhurst or West Point, but they did know how to fight the
Turks—and how to whip them. They regarded themselves as of equal
rank with any general!

These, then, were the men Lawrence had to mold from an inchoate,
intertribal conglomeration into a large army capable of defeating
highly trained and well-officered forces. All the organization had
to be improvised on original lines. There was no commissariat
department. When the Bedouin irregulars started off on an
expedition, each man carried a small bag of flour and some coffee.
Every meal was the same. The entire army lived and fought on
unleavened bread baked in ashes. The Arabs could eat a pound or
two at a time, but Lawrence usually carried a chunk in the folds
of his gown and nibbled at it as he rode at the head of a column.

The Bedouin looked upon tinned food as a dubious institution. One
day, when Major Maynard was accompanying us on a journey over the
desert northeast of Akaba, he handed a tin of bully beef to each
of the men with us. They took the meat reluctantly and seemed to
regard it as unholy. It was then we discovered how suspicious the
Arab was of things in tins—but from religious, not hygienic motives.
It is customary for an Arab, when he cuts the throat of a sheep or
of any other animal, to say, as he inserts the knife, “In the name
of Allah the Merciful and the Compassionate!” When they opened the
tins they repeated these same words, fearful lest the Chicago
packers had not performed the ceremony according to the law of the
Prophet.

Apart from a few such formal observances, the average Bedouin is
by no means a religious fanatic. He refuses to take notice of the
three cardinal principles of Mohammedanism. He never fasts for,
says he, “We never have enough to eat as it is!” He rarely bathes,
using the excuse, “We have not even enough water to drink.” He
seldom prays, for he maintains, “Our prayers are never answered,
so why bother?”

But with all his looting and his lack of religion, the Bedouin is
a man of honor and a man of humor.



  CHAPTER XVIII


  A ROSE-BED CITY HALF AS OLD AS TIME


One of the most colorful and romantic episodes of the war in the
Land of the Arabian Nights was a battle fought in an ancient
deserted city that had been asleep for a thousand years, only to
wake to the booming of big guns and the spirited clash of Turks
and Arabs. Here, among the immemorial and perfect ruins of a lost
civilization, Lawrence the archæologist and Lawrence the military
genius merged in one. To the few travelers who have ventured into
that hidden corner of the Arabian desert it is known as a “rose-red
city, half as old as time,” carved out of the enchanted mountains
of Edom. It lies deep in the wilderness of the desert, not far from
Mount Hor, where the Israelites are believed to have buried their
great leader, Aaron.

The battle took place on October 21, 1917, shortly after the fall
of Akaba. It was important from a military standpoint because it
definitely decided that the uprising against the Turks in Holy
Arabia was to develop into an invasion of Syria, an affair of
worldwide importance destined to revolutionize the history of the
Near East. In this battle Lawrence and his Bedouins fought the
Turks on the same mountain-tops from which Amaziah, king of Israel,
hurled ten thousand of the inhabitants to the canons below. Lawrence
successfully defended the city against the Turks in much the same
way that the Nabatæans defended it against the armies of Alexander
the Great three hundred years before Christ. He trapped the Turks
in the same narrow gorge that resounded to the tramp of Trajan’s
conquering legions two thousand years ago.

After hearing Lawrence’s enthusiastic description of the palaces
carved out of the living rock, where he had camped with his
Bedouins, I asked Emir Feisal if he would permit me to do a bit of
exploring among the mountains of Edom. He not only granted the
request but gave us a picked band of his wildest brigands as a
body-guard to protect us from robbers and enemy patrols. From Akaba
we trekked thirty-eight miles through the Wadi Ithm to one of
Feisal’s outposts, at Gueirra. The Wadi Ithm is a narrow gorge
hemmed in by jagged granite mountains crisscrossed with black lava
veins from twenty to two hundred feet wide caused by volcanic
eruption ages ago. This weird wadi pours out on to a mud plain
which reminded us of the Bad Lands of Dakota and the high plateaus
of Central Baluchistan. Here we occupied a deserted bell-tent for
several days before continuing our trek across arid mountain ranges
and sandy desert stretches. Up and up we went over a precipitous
rocky zigzag trail, where our camels, time after time, stumbled to
their knees. Reaching the summit of the Nagb, the camel-track led
across a grassy plateau to the battle-field around the wells of
Abu el Lissan. General Nuri Pasha, one of the commanders of Feisal’s
army, turned out his troops to welcome us. We stopped a few minutes
for coffee, and as I left the general’s tent he picked up the
princely Persian lamb rug on which we had been sitting and threw
it over my camel-saddle, insisting, in spite of all my protests,
that I should take it along and use it as a cushion. He also lent
me a hippopotamus-hide cane, presented to him by the king of
Abyssinia, with which to guide my dromedary. A few miles beyond
Abu el Lissan a courier from Feisal caught up with us and handed
me a letter of introduction from the emir to his commander at
Busta. The courier was a swarthy rascal, who looked like Captain
Kidd, with his flashing black eyes and fierce upturned mustachios.
His red head-cloth was embroidered with huge yellow flowers, and
his robes flashed as many colors as Joseph’s coat. At his belt were
a pearl-handled revolver and two wicked-looking daggers. To my
amazement he spoke typical New York Bowery English and dropped such
remarks as, “Say, cull, will youse slip me de can-opener?” He
informed me that he had lived fourteen years in America as a
machine-operator in a cigarette factory.

He was born in the mountains of Lebanon, and his real name was
Hassan Khalil, but in New York he was plain Charley Kelly. At the
outbreak of the World War, he was working for Thomas Cook & Son in
Constantinople and was immediately conscripted into the Turkish
army. At the second battle of Gaza he deserted and joined the
Australian forces as an interpreter. After serving with the British
in Egypt, he was finally transferred to the Hedjaz army. As soon
as we became better acquainted, Charley told me he was not a
Mohammedan, but an “R.C.,” which he explained in a whisper stood
for Roman Catholic. But he begged me not to reveal his secret to
any of the other members of the caravan, for he feared that he
would be killed instantly by some of our over-zealous Moslem
companions, should they discover his apostacy. Charley Kelly
entertained us around the camp-fire with detective yarns. He had
several Arabic translations of “Nick Carter” in his saddle-bags
and said the Egyptians believe Nick Carter to be the actual head
of the American Secret Service. According to Charley, “Nick Carter”
is a best seller in Egypt, where his exploits are regarded as
authentic history. If an Egyptian cannot read himself, he hires a
public reader to entertain him with one of these detective tales.
Another member of our column was a silent Egyptian with an immobile
face that might have been chiseled out of stone. We dubbed him
Rameses because he looked so much like the statues of that mighty
potentate along the Nile. The rest of our picturesque body-guard
was made up of Lawrence’s Bedouins. All these Beau Brummels used
kohl-sticks under their eyebrows and rouge on their lips and
cheeks. The prophet Mohammed is said to have remarked on one
occasion that there were two things no true believer should ever
lend to his brother—his kohl-stick and his wife.

Every morning Charley had to help Chase, who is a little man, mount
his camel. Practically every camel Chase rode died in its tracks
before the end of the journey. He was singled out as the special
object of attraction by all the insects of the desert. Several
mornings when we crawled out of our sleeping-bags we found scorpions
and centipedes between Chase’s blankets. One morning Chase handed
a treasured can of bacon to one of the members of our body-guard
with instructions to cook him a breakfast that would remind him of
home. But he ended by frying his own bacon. As soon as the can was
opened the Bedouin cook dropped it in horror and backed off, aghast
that his Moslem nostrils had been profaned with the aroma of
unclean meat. Like all Mohammedans, Arabs will not use pork in any
form. They cook their food in butter made from goat’s milk.

That day we passed a flock of white sheep, all of them fat as
butter, with thick curly wool and cute little corkscrew horns. A
Bedouin shepherd sat near-by on a lump of basalt strumming an
ancient Arab love-song on his lute. Some of these uplands of the
Hedjaz are carpeted with barely enough grass for sheep pasture,
and a few of the more settled tribes tend flocks rather than
breeding camels or horses. One schemer from Bagdad, hearing of the
uprising in the Hedjaz, was far-sighted enough to realize that the
Allies were bound to take an interest in the affair sooner or later
and that British gold pieces would supplant the Turkish sovereigns
which long had been the medium of exchange along the desert fringe.
So, from lead gilded over, he made thousands of counterfeit British
sovereigns, and as soon as the first gold began coming into the
Hedjaz from Egypt, but before the Bedouins were familiar enough
with it to detect the spurious from the genuine, he trekked across
the country buying all the sheep he could find. Instead of the
normal price of one pound for each animal, he offered two of his
counterfeit pieces. Then before the Bedouins had time to get into
Jeddah, Yenbo, and Wedj to spend their gold in the bazaars, the
Bagdadi drove his sheep north to Palestine, and sold them at two
pounds a head to the British army. When the hoax was discovered he
had vanished into the blue.

Distances in Arabia are not gaged by miles but by water-holes. The
night after our unfortunate bacon incident, just as we had finished
putting up our pup-tent at “third water,” otherwise known as Busta,
twenty Arab regulars came along mounted on Peruvian mules. The
mules were camel-shy, and as soon as they saw our caravan they
bolted at top speed in all directions, some of them bucking off
their riders and disappearing into the mountains of Edom. These
soldiers, who hailed from Mecca, sat up all night shouting and
singing around our campfire and firing their rifles into the dark.
The Turkish lines were only a few miles away, and I had a
presentiment that a Turkish patrol would slip up during the
confusion and put a finish to the hilarity by scuppering the lot
of us. Nothing happened, however, and after trekking eighty miles
across country without a single skirmish with the Turks to make
the expedition more lively, we came out on the top of a high
plateau.

Spreading off to the northwest before us were magnificent ridges
of white and red sandstone. About twenty miles to the north lay
the valley of the Dead Sea, and beyond, disappearing in purple and
gray haze, the Central Arabian Desert. The peaks ahead were the
sacred mountains of Edom. Our problem was to penetrate that massive
range of sandstone before us. We descended from the high plateau
into a valley twelve miles wide that narrowed to twelve feet, a
mere defile through the mountain wall. Through this gorge, or sik,
as it is called by the Arabs, our camels and horses scrambled over
boulders and pushed their way through thousands of oleander-bushes,
while the Arabs popped away with their pistols at the lizards
creeping across the stones. As we wandered through this rent in
the rock we marveled at its beautiful walls towering hundreds of
feet above us, at times almost shutting out the sky.

  And on each side, aloft and wild,
  Huge cliffs and toppling crags were piled.

Hassan Morgani, one of our Bedouins, who wore a purple jacket
trimmed in green and a pair of cavalry boots that he had taken from
a dead Turkish officer, told us that the gorge was the Wadi Musa,
the Valley of Moses. Charley Kelly confirmed this with the assertion
that it was here that Moses brought the water gushing from the
rock. To-day every Arab family in this region has its little Moses.
Through the narrow gorge a brook plunged in and out among the great
boulders, the oleanders, and the wild fig-trees. High above, the
sun warmed the tops of slender cathedral rocks to a wonderful rose
red.

After pushing our way through the gorge for more than an hour, we
suddenly rounded the last bend and stood breathless and speechless.
There, in front of us, many miles from any sign of civilized
habitation, deep in the heart of the Arabian Desert, was one of
the most bewildering sights ever revealed to the eye of man—a
temple, a delicate and limpid rose, carved like a cameo from a
solid mountain wall. It was even more beautiful than the Temple of
Theseus at Athens or the Forum at Rome. After trekking nearly a
hundred miles across the desert, to come suddenly face to face with
such a marvelous structure fairly took our breath away. It was the
first indication we had that we had at last reached the mysterious
city of Petra, a city deserted and lost to history for fourteen
hundred years and only rediscovered during the last century by the
famous Swiss explorer, Burckhardt.

The secret of the enchantment of this first temple we saw lies
partly in its position at one of the most unusual gateways in the
world. The columns, pediments, and friezes have been richly carved,
but it is difficult to distinguish many of the designs, which have
been disfigured by time and Mohammedan iconoclasts. At one side
are two rows of niches, evidently the traces of ladders used by
the sculptors who carved their way down. These artist-artisans used
a tooth tool that they might get the maximum effect out of the
colored strata, which seem to form a perfect quilt of ribbons and
swirl like watered silk in the morning sunlight. Although the
temple is wonderfully preserved, it shows the effects of the
sand-blasts of the centuries. The auditorium within is almost a
perfect cube, forty feet each way. The architecture is of a corrupt
Roman-Grecian style. The temple was carved from the cliff almost
two thousand years ago during the reign of the Roman Emperor
Hadrian, who visited Petra in a. d. 131. The desert Arabs
who were with me said it was called El Khazneh, or the Treasury,
because of the great urn that surmounts the edifice, which the
Bedouins believe is filled with gold and precious jewels of the
Pharaohs. Many attempts have been made to crack the urn, and it
has been chipped by thousands of bullets. My body-guard also fired
away at it, but fortunately it was nearly a hundred feet above
their heads. Colonel Lawrence is of the opinion that the building
was a temple dedicated to Isis, a goddess popular during the reign
of Hadrian. One traveler had carved his name in letters a foot high
on one of the pillars of the temple, but Lawrence ordered his men
to polish it out.

The city lay farther down on the plain of an oval valley, a mile
and a half long and half a mile wide. How populous it was there is
no way of telling, but several hundred thousand people must once
have lived there. Only the more insignificant buildings have
perished, and even of these some striking ruins remain. The upper
part of the valley is the site of ancient fortresses, palaces,
tombs, and amusement resorts—all carved out of the solid rock. The
lower part was apparently a water circus where the people indulged
in aquatic sports and tournaments. Petra is a huge excavation made
by the forces of nature. From the nine-thousand-foot plateau from
which we first saw the mountains of Edom, we had dropped down to
an altitude of one thousand feet when we entered the ruined city.

All the travelers who have visited Petra have marveled at the
wonderful tints of its sandstone cliffs. It is carved from rock
the colors of which beggar description at certain hours of the day.
In the morning sunlight they are like great rainbows of stone
flashing out white, vermilion, saffron, orange, pink, and crimson.
Time and the forces of nature have played the magician, painting
the different strata in rare tints and hues. In places the layers
of rock dip and swerve like waves. At sunset they glow with strange
radiance before sinking into the sombre darkness of the desert
night. We wondered at times whether we were really awake or whether
we had not been transported to fairy-land on a magically colored
Persian carpet.

Stairs carved from the rock, some more than a mile in length, run
to the top of nearly all the mountains around Petra. We climbed
one great staircase ascending to a height of one thousand feet
above the city to the temple which the Arabs call El Deir, or the
Convent, a most impressive gray façade, one hundred and fifty feet
high, surmounted by a gigantic urn, and decorated with heads of
Medusa. Most of the steps cut into the mountains lead to sacrificial
altars, where the people used to worship on the high places
thousands of years ago. An even greater staircase winds up to the
Mount of Sacrifice, an isolated peak that dominates the whole
basin. On the summit are two obelisks and two altars. One altar is
hollowed out for making fires, and the other is round and provided
with a blood-pool for the slaughter of the victim offered to
Dhu-shara and Allat, the chief god and goddess of ancient Petra.
One of my Bedouin companions insisted upon taking off his raiment
and bathing in the rain-water which had collected in the pool. The
average Bedouin needs a little encouragement along these lines,
and so we did not reprimand him for his sacrilegious act. Lawrence
told me that it was supposed to be the most complete and perfect
example in existence of an ancient Semitic high place. Near the
altars are the two great monoliths, each about twenty-four feet
high, which the people of Petra carved out of the solid rock and
used in their phallic worship, one of the oldest forms of worship
known to man. The names of these monoliths and the nature of the
worship do not admit of description. The mountain-top commands a
view of all the surrounding valleys and mountains, as well as most
of the ruins of the city. The outlook is sublime. It is a scene to
stir in one’s heart those emotions which have ever led man to
worship his Creator. On a peak near-by are the broken remains of
a Crusader’s castle. Further off to the left rises a black lava
mountain. On its summit, glistening beneath the burning rays of
the Arabian sun, we saw a small white dome, white like the bleached
skeletons we passed in crossing the desert between Akaba and the
mountains of Edom. This peak is Mount Hor, and the dome a part of
a mosque built by the Bedouins over the traditional tomb of Aaron,
high priest of the Israelites and brother of Moses. We spent a day
ascending it and upon reaching the summit found a Turkish flag
flying over Aaron’s tomb. As a propitiation before any important
event takes place, the desert Arabs climb Mount Hor with their
sacrifice of a sheep and cut its throat before the tomb of Aaron.
Although no news of it reached the outside world at the time, the
far-flung battle-lines of the Great War reached even to the slopes
of Mount Hor.

All the buildings of this city of ghosts have elaborate façades,
but within they are simple and austere. The magnitude and beauty
of them even now strikes one with awe. How much more they must have
meant to beauty-worshipers in the days ‘when the city pulsed with
life! Most of the stone is rose-colored when the sun falls upon
it, and shot with blue and porphyry. The deserted streets are rich
with laurels and oleanders, whose hues seem copied from the rock
itself. In fact, the only inhabitants of this rose-red city for
hundreds of years have been the countless millions of brilliant
wild flowers that flourish in the cracks of the hundreds of former
palaces and temples and wind themselves around half-ruined columns.
Petra’s mighty men and beautiful women have passed on to that
undiscovered country from whose bourne no traveler returns. It is
indeed a scene to impress one with evanescence of all life.

  The worldly hopes men set their hearts upon
    Turn ashes, or they prosper,
  And anon like snow upon the desert’s dusty face
    Lighting a little hour or two—are gone.

In the center of the city, surrounded on all sides by temples and
palaces and tombs, is a great amphitheater, cut out of the base of
the same mountain that leads to the great high place of sacrifice.
Tiers and tiers of seats face the mountain avenues of tombs. The
diameter of the stage is 120 feet, and the theater is the one
symbol of life and mirth in all this mysterious deserted city. The
laughter and cheers of thousands once rang here across this hollow
cemetery of ancient hopes and ambitions. Here thousands of years
ago the Irvings and Carusos of that bygone age performed and
received the plaudits of their admiring thousands. Where now are
all the gay throngs who occupied these tiers on feast-days and
watched the games? The lizards are crawling over the exquisitely
colored seats to-night, and the only sounds that have been heard
in the theater for centuries have been the desolate howls of
jackals. Little did the ancient Edomites or Nabatæans imagine that
a people called Americans from an unknown continent would one day
wander among the ruins of their proud city.


  It seems no work of man’s creative hand
  By labour wrought as wavering fancy planned;
  But from the rock as if by magic grown;
  Eternal, silent, beautiful, alone.
  All rosy-red, as if the blush of dawn
  That first beheld it were not yet withdrawn.
  The hues of youth upon a brow of woe
  Which man deemed old two thousand years ago.
  Match me such marvel, save in Oriental clime;
  A rose-red city, half as old as Time.

  [By Dean Burgon (fellow of Oriel and afterward vicar of St
   Mary’s), prize poem, Newdegate, 1845.]


The presence of Egyptian architecture and symbols indicates that
Petra must have been built by a race that had come in contact with
the culture of the peoples who carved the Sphinx and piled up the
pyramids. Even the desert traditions of nomenclature support the
belief that Petra was at some time identified with Egypt. The
nomads believe that these rocks were carved by Jinn, under the
order of one of the Pharaohs, and not only are they certain that
the great urn on El Khazneh contains the wealth of the old Egyptian
tyrants but they believe that they actually lived in Petra and call
a ruined temple down in the valley Kasra Firaun, the Palace of
Pharaoh. But nobody knows when or by whom Petra was built. Some
think that it had its beginning long before the time of Abraham
and was an old city when the Israelites fled from Egyptian bondage.

As we stand there amid the ruins of this forgotten city, we are
reminded that

  When you and I behind the veil are passed,
    Oh, but the long, long while the world shall last,
  Which of our coming and departure heeds,
    As the seven seas shall heed a pebble cast.

The region around Petra was known as Mount Seir in the time of
Abraham, and it is said that Esau, with his followers, came to this
country after he had lost his birthright. We read in the Old
Testament about Petra. It is called Sela, which is Hebrew for rock.
It is believed that when the children of Israel were wandering in
the Wilderness they came upon Petra and asked for permission to
enter and rest. But the people of Petra refused, and Israel’s
prophets predicted its desolation. Obadiah accused it of being
proud and haughty, saying: “Though thou mount on high as the eagle,
and though thy nest be set among the stars, I will bring thee down
from thence, saith the Lord.” In the time of Isaiah it was a proud
and voluptuous city, of which the stern old Jew predicted
destruction.

The Nabatæans, an ancient Arab tribe, conquered Edom, and by 100
b. c. had created a powerful kingdom extending north to
Damascus, west to Gaza in Palestine, and far into Central Arabia.
Lawrence told me that the Nabatæans were great pirates who sailed
down the African coast and made devastating raids on the Sudan.
They had reached a high stage of civilization, did beautiful
glass-work, made fine cloth, and modeled pottery. They frequently
visited Rome and Constantinople. Both King Solomon and the queen
of Sheba had employed the Nabatæans, who rivaled even the Palmyrians
in organizing a rich caravan trade and made Petra their principal
commercial center in Arabia. Antigonus visited Petra in 301 b. c.
and found there large quantities of frankincense, myrrh,
and silver.

The Greeks, knowing of this fortress city impregnable in its
mountains, were the first to name it Petra, which means rock.
Tradition says that Alexander the Great conquered all the then
known world and wept because there were no more worlds to conquer.
But tradition is wrong. Here is one city that Alexander the Great
failed to conquer. Diodurus Siculus tells us that Alexander
considered Petra of such importance that he sent Demetrius with an
army to capture it. Demetrius tried to force his way into it by
the same narrow defile through which we entered. But the inhabitants
shut themselves up in their mountain fastness and successfully
defied both siege and assault. Although the city refused itself to
the visitor who came with the sword, it welcomed him who came with
the olive-branch.

As the capital of the Nabatæans, it rose to its zenith in the
second century before Christ. Greek geographers of those days
called the land of Edom by the name “Arabia Petræa.” Under Aretas
III, surnamed Philhellene or friend of the Greeks, the first royal
coins were struck, and Petra assumed many of the aspects of Greek
culture. Even in the golden age of Rome when Augustus sat on the
throne of the Cæsars the fame of this far-away city had reached
Europe. It was a Mecca for tourists from all over the world, and
it must have had a population of several hundred thousand souls.
It was a seat of arts and learning to which the Praxiteleses, the
Michelangelos, and the Leonardo da Vincis of that day repaired.
Its hospitality was a byword among the ancients. It opened its
doors to the early Christians, who were permitted to have their
houses of worship there side by side with the temples of Baal,
Apollo, and Aphrodite. Petra was to this part of Asia what Rome
was to the Romans and Athens to the Greeks. In a. d. 105
one of Trajan’s generals conquered Petra and created the Roman
province of Arabia Petræa, but the city continued to flourish as
a trade-center under the strong peace of Rome. In those days Petra
was the focusing-point on the caravan routes from the interior of
Arabia, Persia, and India to Egypt, Palestine, and Syria. It was
a great safe-deposit of fabulous wealth, fortressed by frowning
cliffs. Both Strabo and Pliny described it as a great city. But
when Roman power waned, the Romanized Nabatæans were unable to
withstand the desert hordes. The caravan trade was diverted through
other channels; Petra declined in importance and ultimately was
forgotten. In the twelfth century the Crusaders, under Baldwin I,
sent an expedition through the locality and built many castles;
they were expelled by Saladin.

There are many indications that Petra was a pleasant and
pleasure-loving city. Its wealthier classes must have lived in
luxury such as even the luxurious East has not known in many
centuries. With its concert-halls, its circuses, its mystic groves,
its priests and priestesses of many sensual religions, its wealth
of flowers, its brilliant sunshine, and its delightful climate, it
must have been at the same time the Paris and the Riviera of Asia
Minor. But, except for its immortal sculpture and the few casual
tributes to it by writers from alien lands, it has not left a
single record of its manner of living, or handed down the name of
a single one of its Homers or its Horaces.


  Rose-red there lies, and vivid in the sun,
  A magic city, hid in Araby;
  Of her no ancient legend has been spun,
  And all her past the silent years have won
  To the deep coffers of antiquity.

  About her brooding stillness there blow
  The scarlet windflowers, as a carpet flung
  Upon the stones. And oleanders grow
  Where, in the night, the mourning jackals go
  A-prowl through temples of a god unsung.

  And so she stands, and centuries have kept
  Her olden secret, tragic or sublime;
  Without her gates, what tides of men have swept,
  Within her portals, race of kings have slept?
  This “rose-red city, half as old as Time.”

  Was there no poet’s voice to chant her pride,
  To clarion her magic down the years?
  No warrior famed, to set her valourous stride?
  No splendid lovers who for love’s sake died,
  Gifting to song their passion and their tears?

  Was there no storied woman’s golden face
  To glimmer down unnumbered years to come?
  No prophet’s vision to foretell her place,
  Mysterious city of forgotten race?
  Only her beauty speaks, and it is dumb.

  And so she stands, while Time holds jealously
  Her olden secret, tragic or sublime;
  Her sorrows, joys, her strength, her frailty
  Are in the coffers of antiquity,
  This “rose-red city, half as old as Time.”

  [by Mona Mackay, Christchurch, New Zealand.]


A little more than a century ago, John Lewis Burckhardt, a Swiss
traveler, who had heard rumors of a great city of rock, lying far
out on the fringe of the Arabian Desert, penetrated the gorge and
found once more this wonderful old city of Petra, which had not
been mentioned in any literary record since a. d. 536. In
the century or more since Burckhardt wrote of his discovery of the
rock city in a letter from Cairo, only a comparatively few travelers
and archæologists from the West have visited Petra. The danger of
violence from Bedouin nomads was so great that not many had the
zeal to attempt it. The lion and the lizard kept the court where
Jamshyd gloried and drank deep, until Lawrence brought his fighting
Bedouins into this city of tombs and empty palaces.



  CHAPTER XIX


  A BEDOUIN BATTLE IN A CITY OF GHOSTS


The possession of Petra is necessary to the holding of Akaba, the
most important strategical point on the west coast of Arabia, where
the great fleets of King Solomon rode at anchor three thousand
years ago. But Lawrence’s battle was the first fought in Petra in
the last seven hundred years. The Crusaders, with their flashing
spears and pennants blazoned with the coats of arms of half the
medieval barons of Europe, were the last warriors to clank in armor
through the ribbon-like gorge. Lawrence, the archæologist, garbed
in Arab kit, had wandered over this country before the war and knew
every foot of the region from the driest water-hole to the most
dilapidated column in Petra. After he had forced the Turks to
surrender at Akaba, he was determined to capture all the approaches
to the high plateau which begins fifty miles inland from the head
of the gulf of Akaba and crosses Arabia to the Persian Gulf. At
the same time the Turks realized that they must either recapture
Akaba or reconcile themselves to the loss of all Holy Arabia. So
they brought ten thousand fresh troops from Syria and stationed
them at the various strategical positions on this plateau. But
Lawrence was certain that the Turks would never be able to retake
Akaba, because there is only one feasible avenue of approach for
an army by land to that ancient seaport—down the Wadi Ithm. To be
sure, he had marched his own irregular army through the same gorge
a few weeks before, but he had caught the Turks napping and swept
down on Akaba before they were aware of their danger. He had no
intention of giving the Turks a similar opportunity. The Wadi Ithm
is one of the most formidable passes in the world for an armed
force to enter; it is as difficult of accesses as the famous Khyber
Pass between India and Afghanistan. It penetrates the barren
volcanic range called King Solomon’s Mountains, which extends along
the eastern shore of the Gulf of Akaba and rises a sheer five
thousand feet on either side of the pass. An invading army, if
attacked from the tops of the peaks crowning its sides, would have
no protection. Lawrence would have annihilated any Turkish force
attempting to advance on Akaba through the Wadi Ithm.

From July until the middle of September, 1917, the Turks were
quiet. Then they made several reconnaissances around Petra in an
effort to dupe Lawrence and the Arabs into believing they were
going to attack Petra, although their real intention was to advance
direct on Akaba. The last of these three reconnaissances was a
gloomy affair for the Turks; Lawrence and his men cut off and wiped
out one hundred of the scouting-party.

Fifteen miles northeast of Petra an old Crusader castle frowns down
on the desert from a steep hill of white chalk. It is known as
Shobek. Baldwin I, king of Jerusalem, built a great wall all the
way around the crest of the mountain in the days of the Crusaders.
Both the castle and the modern Arab village are within the wall,
and the only approach to the summit is up a winding precipitous
trail. Shobek was still in the hands of the Turks, but Lawrence’s
spies brought him word that the garrison was made up entirely of
Syrians, all men of Arabian blood, in sympathy with the new
Nationalist movement. So Lawrence sent Malud and ten of his
lieutenants to Shobek by night, followed by Shereef Abd el Mu’in
and two hundred Bedouins.

The Syrians in a body transferred their allegiance to him. Next
morning the combined Syrian and Arabian forces descended the chalk
mountain and destroyed three hundred rails on a side-line of the
Damascus-Medina Railway, near Aneiza. They also tried to capture
the terminus of this spur, where seven hundred Armenian wood-cutters,
whom they wanted to rescue, were at work. But this time the Turks
had erected such strong fortifications around the terminus that,
although the Arabs and Syrian deserters took the Turkish outposts,
they were unable to capture the main positions. The Turks, badly
frightened, sent couriers to Maan and Abu el Lissal asking for
reinforcements. By weakening their garrison at Abu el Lissal the
Turks played directly into Lawrence’s hands, for as soon as the
Turkish reserves arrived Lawrence called his men back to Petra from
the railway.

After the desertion of the entire Shobek garrison and Lawrence’s
bold sortie against the railway terminus, Djemal Pasha,
commander-in-chief of the Turkish armies in Syria, Palestine, and
Arabia, decided, against the advice of Field-Marshal von Falkenhayn,
then German generalissimo in the Near East, that before he could
hope to recapture Gueirra and Akaba it would be necessary to retake
Petra. Djemal transferred a crack cavalry regiment, an infantry
brigade, and several organizations of light artillery from Palestine
down the Hedjaz Railway to Maan. This was a clever strategic coup
for Lawrence. First, the Germans and Turks had to diminish their
forces opposing Allenby in the Holy Land. Secondly, they were
walking into the trap which had been set for them; because it was
Lawrence’s belief that if a battle were fought by his irregular
Bedouin troops in the mountain fastnesses of ancient Edom, the
superior mobility of his army would eventually enable him to defeat
any division of methodically trained regulars in the world.

Malud Bey, Lawrence’s first in command at the battle of Petra, was
one of the most interesting figures of the Arabian revolt, as well
as one of the most picturesque. He wore very high purple-topped
Kafir boots—like Jack the Giant-Killer must have worn; also spurs
that jangled musically as he strode about, a long medieval sword,
and a long mustachio, which he tugged like the villain of a
melodrama. But there was no more charming and gallant officer in
the whole Arabian army. He was the son of a Bedouin sheik and a
Circassian concubine and from boyhood had been an ardent Arab
Nationalist. He made a thorough study of modern military science
in order that some day he might help to overthrow the Turk, and he
even went so far as to spend three years studying at the Turkish
Staff College before they discovered his revolutionary leanings
and expelled him. Then he went into the desert and became secretary
to Ibn Rashid, one of the potentates of Central Arabia. There Malud
participated in scores of raids and earned such a reputation as a
fighter that the Turks forgave him his past sins and invited him
to return and join their cavalry. At the outbreak of the World War
he was raised to the rank of captain, but he was later
court-martialed and imprisoned for taking part in a conspiracy
against the sultan. After his release he fought the British in
Mesopotamia and was captured by them near Basra. Eventually he was
allowed to join Feisal. He was wounded in every single engagement
in which he took part, because he was so foolhardy that he would
not hesitate to charge the Turkish army by himself.

Djemal Pasha selected Maan, the most important station on the
Hedjaz Railway between the Dead Sea of Medina, as the starting-point
for three columns comprising over seven thousand men, several units
of light artillery, and a squadron of German aëroplanes. One column
made the Crusaders’ castle at Shobek its base; another came up from
the south by the way of Abu el Lissal and Busta; and the third
moved direct from Maan on the east. The Turks directed the movements
of their columns so that they would all converge on Petra on
October 21.

In the meantime Lawrence and his Bedouins were comfortably and
safely lodged in the ancient capital of the Nabatæans, behind those
mighty rocky ramparts which had defied the armies of Alexander the
Great. For the first time in many centuries the silent avenues
throbbed with life. Camp-fires were lighted on the old altars of
the gods; and sentinels stationed on the ancient great high places
watched for the coming of the Turks. In the vast echoing chambers
of the tombs the Arabs sat around in circles until late at night,
telling interminable stories and singing old chants of epic battles.
Lawrence himself occupied princely headquarters, the Temple of Isis
(El Khazneh), the rose-tinted palace at the entrance of the gorge.
If he wished he could have used his archæological imagination and
re-peopled the gloomy hall with the vision of handmaidens of Isis
dancing before the shrine of their goddess.



  Photograph: THE AUTHOR, WITH LAWRENCE IN ARABIA



  Photograph: SHEIK AUDA ABU TAYI, THE BEDOUIN ROBIN HOOD



Instead, he sent for Sheik Khallil of Elgi, a neighboring village,
and told him it would be necessary to summon all the able-bodied
women for miles around to help reinforce his troops. Arabian women
may not have gone in for Red Cross work and women’s motor-corps or
canteen service, as their Western sisters did during the war, but
they have always encouraged their men to fight. In the incessant
tribal warfare they are often in the rear, encouraging their men
with praise, chanting songs of Bedouin heroes, and shrieking words
of blame if their own men-folk are not gallantly charging into the
thick of the fray. A few centuries ago the fighting forces of the
desert always had two or three of their women dressed in resplendent
robes to act as standard-bearers. This, however, was the first time
in Arabian history that armed battalions of women actually engaged
in battle.

The Bedouin women living in the vicinity of Petra rose magnificently
to the emergency. They dropped their butter-making and their
weaving and thronged to Lawrence’s headquarters under the leadership
of Sheik Khallil’s wife. No smart uniforms with braid and buttons
for the Bedouin Amazons! Barefooted, with long blue cotton robes,
wearing gold bracelets and rings in their ears and noses, they
gathered from all quarters to form their Battalion of Death.
Rallying to the call of Lawrence, who had few men at his disposal,
they fought with as great valor as their husbands and brothers and
played a vital part in routing the Turks.

Lawrence, remembering the stout defense put up by the old Nabatæan
kings, when Alexander’s army failed to capture Petra, stationed
the Bedouin women at the narrow gorge opposite the Temple of Isis
to defend the city. The women were fierce in their enthusiasm and
needed no coaching to make them capable musketeers. They hid behind
the pillars of the temple, some of them with their half-grown
children, and covered with their rifles the gorge, which was so
narrow that only a few Turks and Germans could march through
abreast. The women held their ground and were not even panic-stricken
when German aëroplanes swooped down over the rock temples and
dropped bombs on the streets, theater and water-circus. They
clutched their rifles only the more tightly when one German bomb
made a direct hit on an Arabian machine-gun, causing the Maxim and
its crew to vanish as though spirited away. Throughout the whole
battle Lawrence commanded from the top of the north ridge. He had
with him a force of fifty Bedouin youths, who were selected for
their speed as runners and who proved most valuable as orderlies.
They could sprint like hares and clamber about the rocks with the
agility of the oryx. If one had viewed the battle from the Arabian
positions and seen only the women and the Bedouin men dressed in
every conceivable desert costume, mounted on horses and camels
without saddles, and using nearly every weapon invented by man from
the dawn of time, if one could have eliminated the modern note
provided by the trench-helmets and commonplace lead-colored uniforms
of the Turks and by their squadron of aëroplanes, one might easily
have mistaken the battle of Petra for a clash between the ancient
Edomites and the kings of Israel.

Lawrence had only two mountain-guns and two machine-guns, but with
these he held the first ridge five miles south of Petra for over
six hours and killed sixty Turks, with practically no casualties
on his side. Then, when the enemy attack had fully developed, when
the Turks and Germans were advancing straight up the ridge in spite
of the fire of the Arabs, Lawrence vacated it and sent half his
men to occupy a ridge a little nearer Petra to the south, and the
other half to a ridge on the opposite side of the valley on the
north. Between his two companies ran the wide part of the Wadi
Musa, a mile distant from the point where it narrows down and
becomes a mere cleft through the mountain wall south of the city.

The Turks, elated at having captured the trenches on the first
ridge, were certain that they had decisively beaten Lawrence’s
forces; so they charged enthusiastically over the summit and down
into the valley, thinking the Arabs had surely retired all the way
into Petra. Meanwhile, Lawrence and his men were hiding in ambush
on the hills of Petra. He permitted at least a thousand of the
enemy’s troops to push headlong into the gorge before he gave the
order to fire. When he had the Turks wedged into the narrowest part
of the gorge, near the entrance to the city, one of his aides fired
a rocket into the air as a signal for the Arabs to attack. A moment
later pandemonium broke loose in the mountains of Edom. The Arabs
poured in a stream of fire from all sides. The crack of rifles
seemed to come from every rock. With shrill screams the women and
children tumbled huge boulders over the edge on the heads of the
Turks and Germans hundreds of feet below. Those stationed behind
the columns of the Temple of Isis kept up a steady fire. Utterly
bewildered, the invaders became panicky and scattered in all
possible directions, while the Arabs on the ridges continued to
devastate their broken ranks.

A few minutes before the sun declined behind the rose-colored
mountains, Lawrence and Malud Bey sent up a second signal to their
followers.

“Up, children of the desert!” shouted Malud.

Crouching figures sprang from behind the rocks on all sides.
“Allah! Allah!” came the answer from the throats of hundreds of
Bedouins as they swept down the ridges into the valley.

The Arabs captured the entire Turkish transport, a complete
field-hospital, and hundreds of prisoners. One body of over a
thousand Turks, who succeeded in retreating to Busta in fair order,
fought their way back several days later to Abu el Lissan and to
Maan.

After the battle, Lawrence slipped through the Turkish lines in
disguise and returned with a copy of the Turkish communiqué
describing the battle. It brought roars of laughter from the
victorious Arabs. It ran:

  We have stormed the fortifications of Petra, losing twelve
  killed and ninety-four wounded. The Arab losses are one
  thousand dead and wounded, and we counted seventeen
  British officers among the bodies.

The only British officers, except Lawrence, who were in that part
of Arabia at the time were many miles away, at Akaba. Lawrence
himself had worn his Arab robes. His losses were twenty-eight
killed and wounded. The Turks had made a little error of 972 in
their estimate.



  CHAPTER XX


  THE RELATIVE IN MY HOUSE


“Perhaps the reason why women played such a small part in the war
in the Land of the Arabian Nights,” explained Colonel Lawrence,
“was because their men-folk wear the skirts and are prejudiced
against petticoats.” Then adding philosophically: “Perhaps that is
one of the reasons why I am so fond of Arabia. So far as I know,
it is the only country left where men rule!” But Colonel Lawrence
denies the assertion made by another authority on Arabia that man
is the absolute master and woman a mere slave. Although “she is
the object of his sensual pleasures, a toy with which he plays
whenever and however he pleases”; although “knowledge is his,
ignorance is hers”; although “the firmament and the light are his,
darkness and the dungeon are hers”; and although “his is to command,
hers is blindly to obey,” she still wields a vast indirect
influence. But one sees and hears very little of her. Arabia is
one country, indeed, where the equal suffrage propaganda of Mrs.
Catt and Mrs. Pankhurst has made little headway.

Although the king of the Hedjaz figures in the cable news, his
queen, Gellaleta el Melika, is never mentioned. Emir Feisal attended
the Versailles Peace Conference as the head of the Arabian
delegation, but his wife, who shortly afterward became the first
queen of a new dynasty in Bagdad, did not accompany him.

Hussein Ibn Ali’s capital is one city where European and American
diplomatists and their wives are not welcome. Just imagine how dull
life in London and New York would become if the customs of Mecca
were suddenly adopted. There would be no charming stenographers,
no coquettish midinettes, no dancing in hotels and restaurants, no
charity bazaars, and no feminine politicians.

Where we rise when a woman enters the room, an Arab never does. In
fact, he will not even eat with a woman, but, of course, she is
expected to serve him. When an Arab prince goes out “to smell the
air” on his camel, his wife does not accompany him. In fact, the
women of the towns rarely leave the harem oftener than once a week.
In Jeddah, for instance, on Thursday afternoon they stroll outside
the city wall to the tomb of Mother Eve. But, in spite of their
secluded lives, many a veiled beauty of Arabia has played a subtle
part in politics and has by no means been satisfied with conquests
of love. Many, indeed, have been the successors to the queen of
Sheba who, by their wisdom as well as their charm, have made their
lords and masters kiss the dust beneath their feet.

The Koran permits a man to have four wives at a time, but a Moslem
usually marries only one unless he is rich enough to provide a
separate house for others. Of course, this only refers to the
townsmen. Hard as it may be to believe, it is, nevertheless, true
that the average Mussulman actually finds it difficult to get along
peacefully with four wives all under the same roof! The Koran also
conveniently permits him to have as many concubines and slave-girls
as his right hand can hold. Mohammed himself is said to have had
eleven wives and several concubines; and, although it may be
difficult for a stream to rise higher than its source, it is,
nevertheless, a fact that among the more intelligent city dwellers
of to-day polygamy, concubinage, and slavery are dying out. King
Hussein, King Feisal, Emir Ali, and the Sultan Abdullah of
Transjordania, and most of the prominent present-day leaders in
Arabia, have but one wife each.

An Arab woman can be divorced for not having a son; she not only
can be, but frequently is. An Arab seldom speaks of a woman as his
wife. He calls her “the relative in my house,” or “the mother of
my son Ali.” Girl babies are usually not very welcome. But when a
child is born, no matter what the sex, the first precaution taken
is to protect the babe from the influence of the evil eye. This is
done by hanging a charm about its neck. Mothers also have a
prejudice against curly hair and do everything possible to
straighten out any stubborn kinks in a baby’s locks.

In some parts of the desert there is an unwritten law that if a
girl is attacked by a man between sunrise and noon the man shall
be flogged severely; if between noon and sunset, he is merely
fined; and if during the night, when all are supposed to be in
their tents under the protection of their families, the man is not
subject to punishment.

A man usually marries between the ages of twenty and twenty-four,
and a woman any time after she is twelve. Professional matchmakers
in Arabia do not perform their services gratuitously and unsolicited
as they do in Europe and America. When a Moslem wants to take unto
himself a helpmate he hires the services of a matronly lady who is
an arranger of marriages by profession. He pays a certain sum for
his bride; how much is always a matter of spirited argument. He
never sees his fiancée until after the orange-blossoms and old
shoes—and then it’s too late. The bride’s mother doesn’t call in
the neighbors and a professional dressmaker to study the trousseau
patterns in “Vogue” or “The Ladies’ Home Journal.” She merely
borrows a cashmere shawl for her daughter.

One of the few careers open to a woman of the Near East to-day is
that of acting as a professional mourner. Often the mourners wail
for days; and the wail, which sounds like the cry of a lost soul,
usually ends in a piercing shriek which makes your blood run cold.

The customs of immediate burial often result in complications.
There is a bazaar story told in Jeddah to the effect that a Scot,
who was stationed there early in the war, passed away as a result
of some mysterious malady. He was carried a short distance outside
the city and buried in the sand near the shore, wrapped in nothing
but a Union Jack. A few hours before the funeral a boat left Jeddah
Harbor, and it carried an official memorandum to the Government in
London telling of the death of the officer. After the ceremony the
mourners were returning to the city when suddenly they heard shouts
and, turning, were panic-stricken to see the corpse running toward
them, swathed in the Union Jack. It seems that the Scot had merely
been in a trance, and, a few moments after he was buried in the
loose sand, land-crabs attacked him and brought him back to life.
But, not satisfied at letting the yarn go at this, they tell how
the Scot was afterward arrested in London for impersonating himself
when he called at his bank to cash a check.

Between the nomad woman of the tents and the townswoman there is
even more difference than between a wiry desert patriarch and his
corpulent city cousin. Townswomen are fat and white, while the
Bedouin women are thin and tanned. Many Bedouin sheiks have four
wives at a time. Some of the richest chieftains have as many as
fifty wives during a lifetime, but never more than four at once.
One reason why they so frequently indulge themselves the luxury of
three or four is because it means easier housework. The Bedouin
women all live in the same tent, too; and, strangely enough,
jealousy is uncommon. They do not regard a husband as exclusive
property as we do.

Bedouin women are much more ignorant and prejudiced than their
men-folk, and they spend no small part of their time urging the
men to fight. It is they who keep the century-old blood-feuds
alive.

The desert nomads have no way of marking time; no Sundays, no
Mondays, no 1924’s and no 1925’s. They are born: “It is the will
of Allah.” Then they grow up and after a while they die: “It is
the will of Allah.” That is all there is to it: “It is the will of
Allah.” So it isn’t bad form to ask a Bedouin woman her age, for
she doesn’t know whether she is sweet sixteen or a Mrs. Methuselah.

They are all frightfully talkative, and whenever we were seated on
the men’s side of the thin partition which divides the goat’s-hair
home of a Bedouin sheik, talking about Western customs, such as
women walking along city streets unveiled, or attending the theater
in company with their gentlemen friends, or playing golf, his wives
would pop their heads up over the partition and remark: “How
disgusting! How vulgar! How beastly!”

Despite the example set by the Arabs themselves, Colonel Lawrence
scrupulously avoided free talk about women. It is as difficult a
subject as religion.

On one occasion, when seated in Sheik Auda Abu Tayi’s tent, Lawrence
was in an unusually talkative frame of mind and was giving his host
a racy description of cabaret life in London. Every few minutes
Auda would slap his knee and roar: “By Jove! I wish I were there!”
Then his wives would break in and upbraid him bitterly.

The Bedouin women usually retain their beauty until their thirties,
but after that! They are all short and thin. They take all their
pleasures in their tents. The Bedouin women of the desert are not
veiled, but they tattoo their faces and paint their lips blue. On
all occasions they wear a garment of dark blue cotton and keep
their hair covered. Mohammed objected to women exposing their hair
in public.

All Arabs are fond of buying pearls or trinkets of hammered gold
for their women. Some of their wives wear gold ornaments worth
£1000 or more. According to the unwritten law of Arabia, all
ornaments are the personal property of a woman, and if divorced
she keeps them. If an Arab wants to divorce his wife, he simply
says three times before witnesses: “I divorce thee! I divorce thee!
I divorce thee!” Consequently, all the women are foresighted enough
to insist on having their possessions in portable form.

The training of the Bedouin women is entirely in the tents. They
spend much of their time milking their camels and goats and making
butter. To do the latter they get the milk in curds, which they
squeeze in their hands and put on the tent-roofs until all the
moisture drops out. When it dries it becomes as hard as a rock. In
fact, their butter is so hard that it will even turn the edge of
a knife! Lawrence would pulverize it between stones and mix it with
water until it resembled malted milk.

Many Bedouins regard women as the source of all evil and say that
hell is full of them. The verses of a few desert poets breathe
hatred for women rather than love. Here is a verse from one of Sir
Richard Burton’s translations:

  They said, marry.
  I said I am free;
  Why take unto my bosom
  A sackful of snakes?
  May Allah never bless womankind!

It is a simple matter for a Bedouin woman to clean house or move.
The tribe leaves one bit of the desert as soon as the pasturage in
the vicinity is exhausted. The more aristocratic Bedouins have
neither sheep nor goats—only camels and horses. They limit
themselves to the least possible amount of possessions and refuse
to be tied down to any one spot. They have the fewest wants and
are the freest of all the peoples of the earth.

Sheik Nuri Shalaan once asked to be told something about European
customs. “Well, if you come to my house in England,” said Lawrence,
“my women will serve you with tea.” Whereupon Nuri clapped his
hands for one of his wives, ordered her to make tea, and invited
Lawrence into the women’s quarters to drink it, an act entirely
contrary to the unwritten law of the desert.

The Bedouins are exceedingly courteous, and no matter how apalling
your Arabic they will never presume to correct you. When you call
at a Bedouin tent you make all of your polite speeches right away,
and then when you leave you may get up and brush off without saying
a word of farewell. I have seen Bedouins call on Lawrence in his
tent when he was reading. He would greet them, and then they would
crouch down on their heels and he would resume his book. After a
while they would get up and silently walk out. But Lawrence himself
would never leave so long as a guest was there.

Al Ghazzali, the great theologian of Islam of the eleventh century,
said, “Marriage is a kind of slavery, for the wife becomes the
slave of her husband, and it is her duty, absolutely, to obey him
in everything he requires of her except in what is contrary to the
laws of Islam.” Wife-beating is allowed by the Koran. All female
slaves taken in war may become the private property of the man who
wins them. There is an old tradition that a lie is excusable in
three circumstances: in war, to reconcile friends, and to women.

To the average Arab, heaven is an oasis with date-palms, sparkling
fountains, and racing camels, where every male angel may have as
many concubines as he desires. So is it any wonder that the Arab
and the Turk are splendid fighters when we realize that if they
die in battle against the unbeliever they will go direct to such
a paradise?

In that land of romance and mystery, of palm-trees, camels, and
veiled women, custom, founded on the teachings of the Prophet,
relegates the gentler sex to an inferior position not only in this
world but in the hereafter as well. But, despite this, there are
many Arabs who make love just as ardently as their enslaved brethren
in other lands, and nearly all Arabian poets draw their inspiration
from the loveliness of woman.

  My heart is firmer than the roots of mountains,
  My fame pervasive as the smell of musk.
  My pleasure is in hunting the wild lion,
  The beast of prey I visit in his den.
  Yet all the while a gentle fawn has snared me,
  A heifer from the pastures of Khazam.



  CHAPTER XXI


  THROUGH THE TURKISH LINES IN DISGUISE


Nearly all Arabs carry some sort of good luck charm, and the belief
in jinn or genii is still common. The talisman which Auda wore
round his neck was probably one of the most extraordinary to be
found in all Arabia. The amulet was a diminutive copy of the Koran
about one inch square, for which he paid more than two hundred
pounds. One day he displayed it with great pride, and Lawrence
discovered it had been printed in Glasgow and, according to the
price marked inside the cover, had been issued at eighteenpence.
So far as we could make out, the only things the Bedouins are
afraid of are snakes, and they believe that the sole protection
against them is such a charm worn round the neck.

There are thousands of reptiles in certain parts of the desert.
The worst snake belt in the Near East extends from Jauf to Azrak
along a chain of shallow wells in the North Arabian Desert, where
one finds, usually near the water, Indian cobras, puff-adders,
black whip-snakes, and hosts of others—nearly all deadly. Lawrence
once started out on an expedition with eighteen men five of whom
died on the way from snake-bite. Instead of relying on the usual
alcoholic antidote, he, like his nomad companions, put his faith
in Allah. In Arabia a snake will often snuggle up to a sleeping
Bedouin at night for warmth, but it will not bite—unless the
sleeper is unlucky enough to roll over and frighten it. Although
their consciences are by no means clear, nearly all Bedouins,
fortunately, are sound sleepers!



  Photograph: A BEDOUIN ENCAMPMENT



  Photograph: COLONEL LAWRENCE CONFERRING WITH COMMANDER D. G.
    HOGARTH, ONE OF HIS ADVISERS AT THE ARAB BUREAU IN CAIRO



Whenever Lawrence and his men reconnoitered in the snake belt at
night they put on boots and were careful to beat every foot of
ground and every bush in front of them. When an Arab is bitten,
his friends read certain chapters of the Koran over him. If they
happen to choose correct passages, he lives; but if they have no
Koran, the unfortunate one in all likelihood dies. ’T is the will
of Allah!

Although the Arabs knew Lawrence was a Christian, once he had
gained their confidence, they often invited him to pray with them.
This he did only when he felt inclined to humor them, but he had
completely memorized all the important Mohammedan prayers so as to
be prepared for any unforeseen emergency when his declining to pray
might cause embarrassment to Emir Feisal and King Hussein in the
presence of members of strange tribes. Fortunately, no such
emergency ever arose.

But when he did pray with his Bedouins on several occasions, just
to please them, the procedure was as follows: Lawrence and his
body-guard would kneel on their prayer-rugs with their faces toward
Mecca. Then with one of the sheiks acting as leader they would go
through a ceremony consisting of rhythmic prostrations and the
repetition, in unison, of passages from the Koran. A certain number
of bows are made in the morning, so many at noon, and still a
different number at sunset, although the words repeated each time
are much the same. At the end of all prayers Lawrence and his men
would turn their heads to the right and then to the left before
rising. Lawrence explained to me that two angels were supposed to
be standing beside each person while praying. One angel records
good deeds and the other bad deeds, and it is customary to salute
them both. All good Moslems have five prayer services daily, but
Lawrence and his men usually cut them down to three by telescoping
two in the morning and two in the afternoon; otherwise the Arab
army would have spent more time praying than fighting.

Lawrence overcame the two greatest prejudices of the Bedouins;
namely, that he was a foreigner and a Christian. Most of the
foreigners these nomads had met were Turks whom they despised as
barbarians, for the Arabs are intellectual snobs. The only
Christians they know are the native Christians of the Syrian coast
and the Armenians, who are more accustomed to show the other cheek
than to show courage; the Arabs loathe them. It suited them for
the most part to ignore the fact that Lawrence was a Christian,
because they consider it a disgrace that any Christian should outdo
them at the very things at which they ordinarily excel. Occasionally,
however, they actually invited him to recite his Christian prayers
aloud, which he did most eloquently. Charles M. Doughty, the
traveler and poet, so far as I know, was the only man other than
Lawrence who ever wandered openly up and down Holy Arabia as a
Christian. All other explorers in the forbidden country of the
Prophet have disguised themselves as Moslems. Doughty had at least
a score of narrow escapes from death, and that he escaped at all
was due to the fact that he always went unarmed and did nothing
covertly. He took no money with him and made his way about by
healing the sick with simple remedies and by vaccinating Arabs. An
old man and a great scholar, he now lives at a watering-place on
the south coast of England. He and Lawrence are close friends, and
the younger man gives his predecessor full credit for “breaking
the ice” and making it possible for him and his associates to work
with the Bedouins during the war. In fact Doughty’s “Arabia Deserta”
was both Lawrence’s Bible and military text-book during the
campaign.

The magnificent Bedouin clothes that Lawrence wore were not
theatrical garb. They were a part of his carefully worked-out plan
to gain complete mastery over the Arabs. Although he did not
attempt to disguise either his religion or nationality, outwardly
he was an Arab. Except in certain areas, he found that being known
as a British officer and a Christian was less of a hindrance than
full disguise. Had he desired to pass himself off as a Bedouin, he
would have had to grow a beard, a feat he could not have achieved
even if the fate of the British Empire had depended on it. However,
on a few occasions he did disguise himself as a Bedouin woman and
made his way through the Turkish lines. But to other British
officers who desired to visit a tribe he recommended simply the
Arab head-cloth, to be worn out of courtesy and not as a disguise.

Bedouins have a malignant prejudice against the hat and believe
our persistence in wearing it is founded on some irreligious
principle. If you were to wear this season’s smartest Piccadilly
derby or Austrian velours in Mecca, your friends and relatives
would disown you.

“Adopt the kuffieh, agal, and aba, and you will acquire the
confidence and intimacy of the sons of Ishmael to a degree
impossible in European garb,” was a Lawrence maxim. “But to don
Arab kit has its dangers as well as its advantages. Breaches of
etiquette, excused in a foreigner, are not condoned if he is in
Arab clothes. You are like an English actor appearing for the first
time in a German theater. Even that is not a parallel, because you
are playing a part day and night, and for an anxious stake. Complete
success comes when the Arab forgets your strangeness and speaks
naturally before you.” So far as I know, Colonel Lawrence is the
only European who was ever accepted by the Arabs as one of
themselves.

His advice was that if you wear Arab dress, you should always wear
the best, for the reason that clothes are significant among the
tribes. “Dress like a shereef, if the people agree to it, and, if
you use Arab costume at all, go the whole length. Leave your
English friends and customs on the coast, and rely entirely on Arab
habits. If you can surpass the Arabs, you have taken an immense
stride toward complete success, but the effort of living and
thinking a foreign language, the rude fare, strange clothes, and
stranger ways, with the complete loss of privacy and quiet and the
impossibility of ever relaxing your watchful imitation of others
for months on end, prove such an added strain that this course
should not be taken without serious thought.”

Whenever Colonel Lawrence was not engaged in conducting major
military operations or planting tulips along the Hedjaz Railway,
he would disguise himself as an outcast Arab woman and slip through
the enemy lines. This was the best disguise for a spy, for the
Turkish sentinels usually considered it beneath their dignity to
say, “Stop, who goes there?” to a woman. Time and again he
penetrated hundreds of miles into enemy territory, where he obtained
much of the data which finally enabled Field-Marshal Allenby’s
Palestine army and Emir Feisal’s Arabian forces to overwhelm the
Turks in the most dazzling and brilliant cavalry operation in
history.

Lawrence once had a spare fortnight in which to make things lively
for the Turks while he was waiting for Auda Abu Tayi to assemble
his Howeitat warriors. Accompanied by a lone Bedouin of the Anazah
tribe named Dahmi, he passed through the Turkish lines in his
customary female disguise and made his way toward Palmyra, where
he hoped to find an influential Bedouin sheik who was in sympathy
with the Arabian revolt. This chief was a thousand miles away on
the Euphrates, and so Lawrence and Dahmi turned their camels toward
Baalbek. In the desert near that ancient Syrian city, famous for
its ruined temples, which rival the Acropolis at Athens, lives a
tribe of semi-nomads, the Metawileh, who were friendly to King
Hussein and Emir Feisal although they were compelled to coöperate
with the Turks. Lawrence wanted to visit these Metawileh to assure
himself of their assistance some months later when the final
advance would be launched and when he expected the Hedjaz forces
and Allenby’s troops to push the Turks north through Syria. His
plan was to arouse all the nomad tribes in Syria, so that they
would be constantly harassing the Turkish army from within their
own lines.

Two miles outside Baalbek, Lawrence slid down from his camel, took
off his Arab costume, and swaggered boldly into the little town in
the uniform of a British officer without insignia. At this time
Baalbek was still several hundred miles north of the line dividing
Allenby’s forces from the Turks. The British were only a few miles
north of Jerusalem. The Turkish troops on the streets of Baalbek
saluted Lawrence as though he had been a German officer. But there
was nothing unusual in this, for if a Prussian officer of the
Death’s Head Hussars had passed Whitehall in London during the war,
he, no doubt, would have received the salute of the Horse Guards.
Lawrence’s theory was that it was a much simpler matter to go
boldly and openly in uniform in rural Turkey than to dodge about
in a suspicious manner. After hurriedly glancing over the
fortifications around Baalbek, Lawrence attempted to visit the
Turkish military school, where thousands of young officers were
being trained. But when he reached the gates he observed that
officers barred the way, and so he decided it would be safer to
retreat without exacting a salute.

Resuming his disguise, Lawrence went on to the tents of the
Metawileh, where he pulled aside his veil and revealed his identity.
The sheiks gathered around the new English “Prince of Mecca” and
clamored for a Syrian revolution at once. Lawrence explained that
the time was not yet ripe and tried to encourage them to future
action by glowing accounts of the victories farther south in the
Hedjaz. However, he found the Metawileh so keen for a raid or a
lark of some kind that he was prevailed upon to join them in what
he always referred to as “a cinema show.” In his contact with the
peoples of the desert he made the discovery that noise is one of
the best forms of propaganda. So that night, followed by every
able-bodied man, woman, and child in the tribe, Lawrence went down
to the main line of the Turkish railway, which runs from
Constantinople and Aleppo through Baalbek to Beirut. He selected
one of the largest steel and concrete bridges in the Near East as
the object of the evening’s diversion. After planting his tulips
under both ends of the bridge and all its bastions, he carried an
electric wire, connecting all charges, to the summit of a near-by
hill, which the people of the Metawileh were occupying as a grand
stand. Then, at the psychological moment, he threw in the switch
and sent the great bridge skyward in a mass of flame and smoke.
The Metawileh to the last man were convinced of the might of the
Allies and swore oaths by Allah the Most High and by the Holy
Koran, that they would join King Hussein’s Faithful.

From here Lawrence and his solitary Bedouin companion trekked
across Syria to Damascus. They rode through the bazaars by night
to the palace of Ali Riza Pasha, who was acting as military governor
for the Turks. Ali Riza, although one of the sultan’s highest
officials in Syria, secretly sympathized with the Arabian
Nationalist movement. That evening at dinner, over innumerable cups
of sweetened coffee, Ali Riza informed Lawrence that the growing
dissension between Turkish and German officials would assure the
ultimate success of the Allies in Palestine and Arabia. The Germans
had become so high and mighty in their own estimation that they
were treating the Turks like dogs. Consequently, feeling against
the Germans had become so bitter that whenever the German General
Staff gave an order the Turks would do their best to prevent its
execution. According to Ali Riza, Falkenhayn a few weeks previously
had advised the Turks to abandon both Palestine and Arabia and
retire to a line across Syria to the Mediterranean from Deraa, the
important railway junction south of Damascus. The German
field-marshal had given the Turks sound and valuable advice, but
the latter were as reluctant to accept it as they were to accept
Field-Marshal Falkenhayn himself as their commander-in-chief. As
a result of their having spurned his counsel they were so
overwhelmed a little later by the combined British and Arabian
forces that they not only lost all the region which Falkenhayn had
advised them to abandon but they also lost the city of Damascus
and the entire territory of Syria, which they otherwise might have
saved.

After a bountiful dinner and this illuminating interview with the
Ottoman governor of Damascus, Lawrence and Dahmi slipped into the
desert and made their way south into the Hauran, the country of
the Druses, a people who pitch their tents around a high mountain
called Jebel Druz. The Druses owe much of their tribal solidarity
to their peculiar religion, which is a secret faith built up around
the worship of Hakim, a mad sultan of Egypt of the Middle Ages.
The Turks have always had great difficulty in getting this
quarrelsome independent tribe to recognize Ottoman authority or
pay taxes to the sultan. Most of the desert Arabs have carried on
perpetual blood-feuds with them, but Lawrence called their
chieftains together and, with his inimitable gift for winning
friends, succeeded in convincing them that they should swear
allegiance to Feisal and hold themselves ready to coöperate with
his army when it approached Damascus.

There would have been no quarter for Lawrence had he made a single
false step. With his companion Dahmi, and Tallal, a Bedouin sheik
known to the far corners of Arabia, he rode all around Damascus,
Deraa, and the Hauran, making a reconnaissance of the Turkish lines
of defense. He explored the Turkish railway on three sides of the
junction at Deraa and took a mental note of important points on
the lines north, south, and west of the junction which it would be
necessary for him to cut when he made his ultimate advance against
Damascus. All this was walking right into danger, and only the
perfection of his disguise and his command of the dialects of the
country saved him from being suspected by the Turks and shot as an
ordinary spy. He had one extremely narrow escape. When strolling
nonchalantly along the streets of Deraa, dressed as Sheik Tallal’s
son, two soldiers of the sultan’s army stopped him at a bazaar and
arrested him on the charge of being a deserter from the Turkish
army. Every able-bodied Arab in the Ottoman Empire was supposed to
be under arms. They took him to headquarters and flogged him until
he fainted. Then they threw him out more dead than alive and
fearfully bruised. Sometime later he regained consciousness, and,
barely able to crawl, he made his escape under cover of night.

Masquerading as a woman also entailed many difficulties. At Amman,
in the hills of Moab, east of the Jordan, Lawrence went through
the Turkish lines disguised as a Bedouin Gipsy. He spent the
afternoon prowling about the defenses surrounding the railway
station, and, after deciding that it would be futile for his Arabs
to attempt to capture it on account of the size of the garrison
and the strength of the artillery, he started toward the desert.
A party of Turkish soldiers, who had been looking with favorable
eyes at the Bedouin “woman,” started in hot pursuit. For more than
a mile they followed Lawrence, trying to flirt with him and jeering
at him when he repulsed their advances.

One of the most important Turkish strongholds on the border of the
Arabian Desert was the town of Kerak, near the south end of the
Dead Sea. One night Lawrence, disguised as a Bedouin, went through
the Turkish lines with Sheik Trad Ibn Nueiris of the Beni Sakr
tribe and found that there happened to be only three hundred Turks
in the garrison at the moment. Lawrence and the sheik banqueted
that evening with one of Trad’s Kerak friends. In honor of their
distinguished visitors the Arab villagers dragged sheep and goats
into the streets, built large fires, and feasted and circled in
wild war-dance until the witching hour. The members of the Turkish
garrison were so frightened by this bold demonstration that they
locked themselves in their barracks! After the celebration, Lawrence
and his companion left Kerak and returned to Akaba. The result of
this unimportant little episode was that two thousand more Turkish
troops were withdrawn from the forces opposing Allenby in Palestine
and sent down to Kerak. Lawrence had attained the two objects that
he had in mind in making this extended and adventurous tour of
enemy territory: he had spread broadcast propaganda for the cause
of Arabian nationalism among the tribes that were still under
Turkish jurisdiction, and he had obtained information enough to
fill a book regarding the plans of the German High Command. He went
over the territory behind the Turkish lines so thoroughly that
during the final drive of the campaign he knew that part of the
country almost as intimately as the Turks themselves.



  CHAPTER XXII


  THE GREATEST HOAX SINCE THE TROJAN HORSE


With the capture of the ancient seaport of Akaba, which transformed
the Shereefian revolt into an invasion of Syria, and with the
official recognition of the Hedjaz army as the right wing of
Allenby’s forces, it became imperative that all Lawrence’s movements
should fit in with Allenby’s plans.

Allenby by this time was in possession of all southern Palestine
up to a zigzag line extending across the country from the Jordan
Valley to the shores of the Mediterranean just south of Mount
Carmel, the peak which since earliest times has been known as the
Mountain of God. His first drive in the autumn of 1917 had resulted
in the liberation of Beersheba, the ancient home of Abraham and
Lot, of Gaza, the capital of the Philistines where Samson was
betrayed by Delilah, and of Hebron, where Abraham, Isaac, Sarah,
and Rebecca were buried in the cave of Machpelah. It had also
resulted in the deliverance of Jaffa, the chief port of Palestine
since the days of David and Solomon three thousand years ago, of
the Plains of Philistia and the Plains of Sharon, and, more
important still, had resulted in the liberation of the sacred
cities of Bethlehem and Jerusalem from the Ottoman yoke. But the
ancient land of Samaria, the city of Nazareth and all Galilee, the
coastal plain of northern Palestine and all of Syria still remained
in the hands of the Turks, so that the campaign was only half
completed. There were now two courses open to Allenby, either to
push the Turks north by degrees, or to crush Turkish power in the
East with one sweeping blow. The commander-in-chief elected to take
the big risk, and he chose the latter.

He decided to launch his final attack north of Jaffa and Jerusalem
in July, 1918; but in June, when Ludendorff was making his last
drive toward Paris and the Channel Ports, the Allies were so hard
pressed in Western Europe that they were compelled to call upon
Allenby to send many of his divisions to reinforce them in France.

This completely disrupted all Allenby’s plans. It now became
necessary for him to create a new army. The unexpected necessity
for a complete reconstruction of the forces in the Holy Land was
a staggering blow, but England’s modern Cœur de Lion was not in
the least disheartened and immediately set to work to form a new
army made up largely of Indian divisions from Mesopotamia hitherto
untried in the war, and from his veteran Anzac cavalry under Light
Horse Harry Chauvel, the Australian general whom he had placed in
command of the largest body of mounted troops that ever participated
in modern warfare. Instead of attacking the Turks in northern
Palestine in June or July, it now seemed impossible for him to
launch his final thunderbolt before October or November. Lawrence
was convinced that such a long delay would make it difficult for
him to give much assistance on the right flank. By then his restive
Bedouins would be wanting to migrate with their flocks to their
winter pastures on the Central Arabian plateaus, and, in addition,
his many years’ experience in the country led him to believe that
autumn rains would impede any military operation attempted during
that season.

He explained this to the commander-in-chief, who immediately
grasped the situation and by super-human effort whipped his new
army into shape so that his new divisions were ready to take the
field within eight weeks from the date of their arrival from
Mesopotamia! Toward the end of August he despatched an aëroplane
to Arabia with a welcome message for Lawrence, the announcement
that he would be ready for a joint attack early in September
instead of October or November.

Allenby, fully aware of the inexperience of most of his new troops,
realized that the Turks would have to be defeated by strategy
rather than by force. So he decided to dupe the Turks with a
colossal hoax, a sort of moving picture of the British Army pushing
straight up along the Jordan River from the Dead Sea toward Galilee.
But it was to be a bogus army! In preparing this hoax Allenby’s
first move was to shift all his camel-hospitals from southern
Palestine to the Jordan Valley within fifteen miles of the Turkish
lines. Next, he had hundreds of condemned and worn-out tents
shipped up over the Milk and Honey Railway from Egypt, and pitched
them on the banks of the Jordan. Then he hauled all his captured
Turkish cannons down into the Jordan Valley and started them
blazing away in the direction of the Turks encamped in the hills
of Moab. Ten thousand horse-blankets were thrown over bushes in
the valley and tied up to look like horse-lines. Five new
pontoon-bridges were flung over the river.

The sacred valley of the Jordan was filled with all the properties
for a sham battle of the ages. Never since the Greeks captured Troy
with their famous wooden horse has such a remarkable bit of
camouflage been put over on a credulous enemy.

When the German reconnaissance aëroplanes flew over the Jordan they
buzzed back to Turkish headquarters with the important news that
Allenby had placed two new divisions in this sector! This camouflage
army, arranged largely by General Bartholomew of Allenby’s staff,
was so realistic that the Germans and Turks never dreamed that it
might all be a fake; and fortunately the lines were so carefully
guarded that not a single German or Turkish spy got through.
Lawrence, also, lent a helping hand in duping the Turks. Shortly
before the date arranged for the big push three hundred members of
the Imperial Camel Corps came down from Palestine to help him. They
were under the command of Colonel “Robin” Buxton, a born soldier,
who before the war was a prominent Lombard Street banker. Under
the guidance of his tent-mate, Major W. E. Marshall, R.A.M.C., “the
fighting bacteriologist,” Lawrence sent the camel corps to attack
an important Turkish garrison at Mudawara, where a spectacular
twenty-minute battle was fought on August 8.

After the battle of Mudawara, Lawrence led a combined force of
camel corps and Arabs against Amman, just east of the Jordan. This
was merely a feint, but it confirmed the Turks in the belief that
the valley of the historic Jordan River was swarming with the bulk
of Allenby’s forces. Lawrence sent one of the most prominent chiefs
of the Beni Sakr toward Damascus with £7000 in gold to buy barley.
The sheik bought recklessly in every town and village on the
eastern border of Syria. The Turks, knowing well that Emir Feisal’s
Bedouin cavalry could not use such vast quantities of grain,
immediately decided that the barley must be intended for Allenby’s
forces in the Jordan Valley. Lawrence also started the rumor
through the Arab army that Emir Feisal’s host intended to launch
its main attack against Deraa railway junction between Amman and
Damascus.

“As a matter of fact,” Lawrence remarked, “we had every intention
of attacking Deraa, but we spread the news so far and wide that
the Turks refused to believe it. Then in deadly secrecy we confided
to a chosen few in the inner circle that we really were going to
concentrate all of our forces against Amman. But we were not.”

This “secret,” of course, leaked out and was betrayed to the Turks,
who immediately shifted the greater part of their forces to the
vicinity of Amman, exactly as Allenby and Lawrence had planned.

When the advance of the Arab army actually started, none but Emir
Feisal, Colonel Joyce, and Colonel Lawrence knew that the attack
was to center on Deraa. Early in September Lawrence started north
from the head of the Gulf of Akaba to help Allenby in his historic
final drive. But instead of taking his Bedouin followers from the
Hedjaz, with the exception of his personal body-guard Lawrence
recruited a new army from the tribes of the North Arabian Desert,
and Joyce kept adding to his rapidly increasing mob of deserters
from the Turkish ranks. When it started up the Wadi Araba from the
head of the Gulf of Akaba, Lawrence’s caravan consisted of two
thousand baggage-camels, four hundred and fifty Arab regulars
mounted on racing-camels, four Arab machine-gun units, two
aëroplanes, three Rolls-Royce armored cars, a demolition company
of picked men from the Egyptian camel corps, a battalion of Gurkhas
from India mounted on tall camels from the Sind Desert, and four
mountain-guns manned by French Algerians. In addition he had his
resplendent private body-guard of one hundred picked Bedouins. His
total force amounted to one thousand men mounted on camels.
Lawrence’s motto on this expedition, as on all others, was, “No
margin!” He faced a march of five hundred miles across unmapped
desert under stupendous transport difficulties. During one stage
they marched four days from one water-hole to another, carrying
their entire water-supply with them and suffering from thirst. When
they reached the new water-hole they drank copiously, only to
discover that the water was filled with leeches. These leeches
fastened themselves on the inside of their nasal membranes and
proved most painful. But the column made the trek in a fortnight.
They were hurrying north to cut three Turkish railway lines and
all the telegraph-wires around Deraa, Lawrence’s primary mission
being to prevent the Turks from communicating with Damascus,
Aleppo, and Constantinople when Allenby started his advance.

The camouflage army of the Jordan was a complete success. As a
matter of fact, there were only three battalions of able-bodied
troops in that part of the Holy Land, two of which were made up of
newly arrived Jewish troops from the British Isles and the United
States.

If the Turks had known the truth they might have sent down one
brigade, pushed up behind Allenby’s lines, and recaptured Jerusalem!

Allenby was taking enormous chances, but great men usually do.

The commander-in-chief supplied his troops in the Jordan Valley
with but three weeks’ rations in order that they might use all of
the transport for his main army. His supply people were frantic;
they said the troops along the Jordan must be given eight weeks’
food; but Allenby knew he was perfectly safe so long as his plan
for one smash went through without a hitch.

Allenby felt that it would not be safe to engage the Turks in a
pitched battle with his small and inadequately trained army, and
so his sole object was to lure all the Turkish reserves to the
wrong place, the Jordan Valley.

Allenby’s sham attack down near Jericho had been scheduled for
September 18. The British Intelligence Corps carefully allowed this
“secret” to get out, and of course the Turks were ready to meet
it. Allenby’s real attack was made not on the eighteenth but on
the nineteenth, and when they woke up and discovered how they had
been fooled, the war in the Near East was over, and most of them
were British or Arab prisoners. Furthermore, it was not made in
the Jordan Valley but away on the other side of Palestine to the
north of Jaffa on the Mediterranean coast! He had transferred
nearly all his infantry and cavalry there by night, and they
remained concealed in the orange-groves until the day of the real
battle, the battle that broke the backbone of the Ottoman Empire.



  Photograph: COLONEL JOYCE, COMMANDER OF THE ARAB “REGULARS”



  Photograph: ARMORED CARS IN HOLY ARABIA



  CHAPTER XXIII


  A CAVALRY NAVAL ENGAGEMENT AND LAWRENCE’S LAST GREAT RAID


All the Turkish ammunition and food had to be brought down from
northern Syria over the Damascus-Palestine-Amman-Medina Railway.
Lawrence’s plan was to swing way out across the unmapped sea of
sand, get clear around the eastern end of the Turkish lines,
unexpectedly appear out of the desert, dash up behind the Turks,
and cut all their communication round Deraa. One of Lawrence’s most
difficult problems during this manœuver was to keep his column
supplied. Even his armored cars and aëroplanes could not carry
enough petrol to pull through. From Akaba to the oasis of Azarak
is 290 miles across burning desert. There were wells at only three
places where the camels could be watered, and the little band had
to live from hand to mouth.

On its way the column rested at Tafileh, a village of six thousand
inhabitants, near which the most unusual episode of the whole
campaign had taken place. A body of Bedouin horse under Abu Irgeig
of Beersheba, under cover of darkness, rode up to a small enemy
naval base near the southern end of the Dead Sea, not far from the
ancient cities of Sodom and Gomorrah. The so-called Turkish Dead
Sea Fleet, consisting of a few ancient arks and motor-driven craft
armed with light guns, was moored alongshore. The officers were
having breakfast in a Turkish Army mess near-by, utterly unaware
of the approach of a hostile force. Abu Irgeig saw at a glance that
the decks were deserted except for a few sentries. So he ordered
his followers to dismount. With a rush they clambered on board like
Barbary corsairs, scuppered the crews, scuttled the boats, remounted
their snorting thoroughbreds, and vanished into the desert haze
before the dazed Turks had time to realize what had happened. This
is perhaps the only occasion in history in which a naval engagement
has been won by cavalry.

Lawrence’s original plan was to gather under his standard the
enormous Rualla tribe, which fills a large part of the North
Arabian Desert, and then descend in force upon the Hauran hill
country to make a direct assault on Deraa. This came to naught
because of a little difference which unexpectedly arose between
King Hussein and General Jaffer Pasha and the senior officers of
the northern army, which ruffled the temper of an important part
of Lawrence’s forces. By the time harmony had been restored it was
too late, and, as a result, the Rualla never came together, making
it necessary for Lawrence to modify his scheme. In the end he
decided to carry out a flying attack on the railways north, west,
and south of Deraa with his regular troops, assisted only by the
wild Druses of the Hauran and a handful of the Rualla horse under
Sheiks Khalid and Trad Shaalan. Before starting this attack,
Lawrence arranged for another feint to be made on the eighteenth
against Amman and Es Salt, and for this purpose he sent word to
the members of the Beni Sakr tribe to mass in the desert near
Amman. The rumor of this, confirmed by Allenby’s mobilization of
his great camouflage army in the Jordan Valley, kept the eyes of
the Turks fixed constantly on the Jordan instead of on the
Mediterranean coastal region to the north of Jaffa.

On the oasis of Azarak is a magnificent old castle that dates from
somewhere between the sixth and fourteenth centuries, and is
turreted and loop-holed like the fortress of a Scottish baron.
Evidently it was an outpost of the far-flung Roman Empire, for
Colonel R. V. Buxton, of the Imperial Camel Corps, found a carved
stone in the ruins on which there was an inscription stating that
two legions of Antoninus Pius had been stationed here. So far as
is known no other force visited it until Lawrence and his men came.
The Arabs refuse to go near it because they say it is haunted by
the mad hunting-dogs of the Shepherd Kings that prowl round it o’
nights. Lawrence at one time thought he would like to retire here
and make Azarak Castle his home after the war.

On the thirteenth, Lawrence, accompanied by the small but mobile
force which he had organized for his big attack on Deraa, left the
oasis of Azark and marched into the Es Salt foot-hills. Two days
later they arrived at Umtaiye, thirteen miles southeast of Deraa,
where the male population of nearly all the villages of the Hauran
joined the Shereefian army in a body. Among them was Sheik Tallal
el Hareidhin of Tafas, the finest fighter in the Hauran, who had
accompanied Lawrence on some of his spying expeditions behind the
Turkish lines. He acted as guide for the expedition from this point
and sponsored Lawrence’s cause in every village. Lawrence declared
that if it had not been for this man’s courage, energy, and honesty
some of the tribes of the country through which they passed, who
were blood-enemies of King Hussein and Emir Feisal, might easily
have wrecked all their plans. Probably twenty or thirty thousand
Arab villagers and nomads joined Lawrence at different points in
this grand finale of the Near Eastern campaign.

In addition to severing the lines of communication it was Lawrence’s
intention to place himself and his troops between the vital railway
junction at Deraa and the Turkish armies in Palestine so as to lure
the enemy into reinforcing the thus isolated garrison at Deraa with
troops from the Palestine front who otherwise would be free to help
stem Allenby’s advance. At the same moment it was also necessary
for Lawrence to cut the railway to the south and west of Deraa in
order to add color to the belief of the enemy that the entire
Allied attack was coming against the Turkish Fourth Army in the
upper Jordan Valley. The only unit available for putting the
railway out of business consisted of the armored cars. The cars,
plus Lawrence, whizzed gloriously down the railway line and captured
one post before the open-mouthed Turks were aware of their danger.
This post commanded an attractive railway bridge, 149 kilos south
of Damascus, on which was inscribed a flattering dedication of the
bridge to old Abdul Hamid, the Red Sultan. Lawrence planted tulips
containing 150 pounds of guncotton at both ends and in the center,
and when he touched them off the bridge faded away on the autumn
breeze. This job completed, the cars started on again at top speed
but became stranded in the sand, where they were delayed for
several hours. On their way back to rejoin the army in the Hauran
they crossed the railway five miles north of Deraa, where Lawrence
suppressed another post, wiped out a Kurdish cavalry detachment,
blew up another bridge, and ripped up six hundred pairs of rails.

After blowing up enough of the railway in the vicinity of Deraa to
throw the whole Turkish service of supply into complete chaos,
Lawrence and his men ascended a high promontory called Mount Tell
Ara, which commanded a panoramic view of Deraa four miles away.
Through his field-glasses he made out nine planes on the enemy’s
aërodrome. During that morning the German aviators had had it all
their own way in the air. They had been playing mischief with
Lawrence’s troops by dropping their eggs and raking the Arabs with
their machine-guns. The Shereefian forces tried to defend themselves
from the ground with their light artillery, but they were getting
the worst of it until Lawrence’s one surviving machine, an
antiquated old bus piloted by Captain Junor, came trundling up from
Azark and sailed square into the middle of the whole German
squadron, Lawrence and his followers watched this fracas with mixed
feelings, for each of the four enemy two-seaters and four
scout-planes was more than the equal of the one prehistoric British
machine. With both skill and good luck Captain Junor cruised right
through the German birdmen and led the whole circus off to the
westward. Twenty minutes later the plucky Junor came tearing back
through the air with his attendant swarm of enemy planes and
signaled down to Lawrence that he had run out of petrol. He landed
within fifty yards of the Arab column, and his B.E. flopped over
on its back. A German Halberstadt dived on it at once and scored
a direct hit with a bomb that blew the little British machine into
bits. Fortunately, Junor had jumped out of his seat a moment
before. The only part of his B.E. that was not destroyed was the
Lewis machine-gun. Within half an hour the plucky pilot had
transferred it to a Ford truck and was tearing around outside
Deraa, raking the Turks with his tracer bullets.

Meanwhile, Lawrence dashed off to join the detachment of troops he
had sent on in the direction of Mezerib. An hour after reaching it
he helped them cut the main Turkish telegraph-lines between
Palestine and Syria. It would be difficult to overestimate the
importance of this, because it completely cut the Turkish armies
off from all hope of relief from Northern Syria and Turkey proper.

At Mezerib several thousand more natives of the Hauran joined the
Arab forces, and the following day Lawrence and his column marched
on along the railway toward Palestine, right into the heart of the
Turkish back area. They spent most of that day planting tulips,
and near Nasib Lawrence blew up his seventy-ninth bridge, a rather
large one with three fine arches, thus bringing to a close his long
and successful career of demolition. Knowing it might be his last,
he planted twice as many tulips under it as necessary.

The column slept soundly at Nasib on the night of the eighteenth
after a good day’s work. The next morning, bright and early,
Lawrence marched his camels, horses, and Arabs off to Umtaiye,
where he was joined by the armored cars. During the morning another
enemy aërodrome was sighted near the railway, and Lawrence, with
two of the armored cars, sped across open country for a near view.
They found three German two-seaters in front of the hangars. Had
it not been for a deep gully intervening, the two armored cars
would have rushed them. As it was, two of the Germans took off and
circled around like great birds, pouring streams of lead down on
the Rolls-Royce machines, while at the same time Lawrence and the
crews inside the turrets finished the third aeroplane with fifteen
hundred bullets. As the armored cars started back to Umtaiye, the
Germans swooped down on them four times; but all their bombs were
badly placed, and the cars escaped unhurt, except for a bit of
shrapnel that wounded the colonel in the hand. Speaking of his
impression of armored car work, Lawrence remarked that he considered
it fighting de luxe.

This same day the Arab regulars, under Jaffer Pasha, and the
armored cars and French detachment and the Rualla horse under Nuri
Shallan, gave a fine account of themselves.



  Photograph: A RACING DROMEDARY FROM INDIA



  Photograph: AN ARAB THOROUGHBRED



  Photograph: A BABY DROMEDARY TWO HOURS OLD



Jaffer Pasha, who also slashed his way brilliantly through this
engagement, comes of a rich and noble Bagdad family. His history
is full of romantic vicissitudes. At the outbreak of the war, Jaff
ar el Askari, as a general on the Turkish staff, was sent across
in a submarine from Constantinople to North Africa to organize an
uprising in the Sahara among the Senussi Arabs. He led the Senussi
in their short but spectacular campaign against the British. In
the first battle he defeated the British; the second battle was a
draw; and in the third he was badly wounded, defeated, and captured
by the Dorset Yeomanry at Agagia, near Solium, and imprisoned in
the great citadel at Cairo. In trying to escape at the end of three
months he broke his ankle and was recaptured in the moat under the
citadel. He was as fat as a barrel, full of the joy of life, and
such a gentlemanly, likable fellow that a little later the British
put him on parole and allowed him to wander about Cairo. Being an
Arab himself, he sympathized with the Arab Nationalist cause and
one day asked his British captors to permit him to volunteer as a
private with Feisal. His request was granted, and he did such
remarkable work that before many months had passed he had risen to
the post of commander-in-chief of Feisal’s regular army, which was
composed mainly of deserters from the Turkish ranks who had known
Jaffer as a general in Turkey. Jaffer Pasha had received the
kaiser’s Iron Cross at the Dardanelles and the Turkish Crescent
for his work in the Senussi campaign, and after he had been with
the Arabs for a while he was made a commander of the Order of St.
Michael and St. George by the British! Allenby accorded him this
last honor at his Ramleh headquarters in Palestine. The guard of
honor on this occasion was the same Dorset Yeomanry that had
captured the pasha just a year before. Jaffer was tremendously
pleased and amused at this subtle touch of humor on Allenby’s part.

Nuri Said, Jaffer Pasha’s brother-in-law, played an equally
brilliant part in the war. He was Emir Feisal’s chief of staff and
remained in this position when Feisal became king in Damascus and
later in Bagdad. Like Jaffer he had attended the Turkish Staff
College. In the Balkan War he was an aviator. Afterward he acted
as secretary of the Arab officers’ secret society which plotted to
overthrow the Turks. He is reckless and loves a hot fight. In fact,
the hotter the action the cooler was Nuri Said. He was one of the
few Arab townsmen whom the Bedouins admired and respected.

All had gone well with the preliminary plans for Allenby’s drive
in Palestine. But until twenty-four hours before the attack was
launched, on the nineteenth, the commander-in-chief himself was
not certain whether he was going to succeed or not. If the Turks
and Germans had discovered his real plan and had not been deceived
into thinking that both the British and Arabian forces were
concentrating on Amman with the intention of attempting to push
north up the Jordan Valley and if the enemy had withdrawn its right
wing only about half-way across Palestine from the Mediterranean
coast and the River Auja to the hills of Samaria, which would
merely have been a retirement of ten miles along the entire front,
the Turks could have played safe, Allenby’s whole blow would have
been wasted, and Lawrence’s brilliant operations around Deraa would
have been all in vain. Lawrence did not even have sufficient
supplies to last his column for two extra days, so that failure
would have been nothing short of a catastrophe for him. Of course,
neither Allenby nor Lawrence would have suffered heavy losses, but
on the other hand they would not have rung the curtain down in
Arabia and Palestine so soon. The entire World War might have
dragged on for several months longer, and an additional hundred
thousand lives or more might have been sacrificed on the Western
Front. But there were no ifs; the enemy walked into the prepared
trap like lambs to the slaughter.



  CHAPTER XXIV


  THE DOWNFALL OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE


On the whole, this last joint operation of the British and Arabian
forces was one of the most marvelous pieces of staff planning in
all military annals. It was a game of chess played by experts on
an international board. Never before was there a similar campaign.
It was a complete reversal of all Marshal Foch’s principles.
Allenby and Lawrence went back to the Napoleonic wars, to the
battles of the eighteenth century, when generals won by manœuver
and strategy instead of by tactics (the term “tactics” referring
to the science of handling men under fire). In this, the most
brilliant and spectacular military operation in the world’s history,
Allenby and Lawrence lost only four hundred and fifty men, although
they completely annihilated the Turkish army, captured over one
hundred thousand Turks, advanced more than three hundred miles in
less than a month, and broke the backbone of the Turkish Empire.
Part of the credit should go to Brigadier-General Bartholomew.
Allenby is colossal; he needs a needle-sharp man to complete him.
He had such an officer and strategist in General Bartholomew.

Allenby’s complete plan, which involved the destruction of all the
Turkish effectives with one sweeping blow, was known only to four
people; the commander-in-chief himself, his chief of Staff,
(Major-General Boles), General Bartholomew, and Colonel Lawrence.
Not even Emir Feisal or King Hussein knew what was going to happen.

At five o’clock on the morning of September 18, 1917, General
Bartholomew came to his office at headquarters in Ramleh and
anxiously said to the staff officer on duty: “Has there been any
change?”

“No, the Turks are still there,” replied the latter.

“Good!” said Bartholomew. “We will take at least thirty thousand
prisoners before this show is over.” He did not dream that the
Allied forces would capture three times thirty thousand Turks.

The deception of the enemy had been perfect in every detail. When
Allenby’s forces entered Nazareth, which had been the German and
Turkish Palestine headquarters, they found papers indicating that
the German High Command had been certain the attack would take
place in the Jordan Valley. Field-Marshal von Sanders had been
taken in down to the last point.

Meanwhile Lawrence, Joyce, General Nuri, and their associates had
received no news of what was going on in Palestine, but they were
busy day and night demolishing sections of the railway. One night
Lord Winterton, who played an active part in this final stage of
the desert campaign, went out on a demolition expedition and placed
some thirty parties at work along the line. The earl himself dashed
about in the dark from point to point in an armored car. While
walking along the railway he met a soldier who said, “How are
things?”

“Fine!” replied Winterton; “we have twenty-eight charges planted
and will be ready to touch them off in a few minutes.” The soldier
remarked that this was splendid, and then disappeared. A moment
later machine-guns blazed forth on all sides, and the earl had to
run for it. His questioner had either been a German or a Turk, and
had the incident occurred an hour earlier it might have spoiled
Lord Winterton’s work for that night. But the tulips were duly
touched off, and the show was a success.

The following day Lawrence dashed back to Azarak in an armored car,
then flew across the desert and northern Palestine to Allenby’s
headquarters at Ramleh. A hurried conference with the
commander-in-chief secured for him three more Bristol fighters,
the best battle-planes that the British were using in the Holy
Land. He also brought back the astounding news that more than
twenty thousand prisoners had already been taken by Allenby’s
forces, that Nazareth, Nablus, and many other important centers
had fallen, and that they were advancing toward Deraa and Damascus.
That meant that the Arabian army would be called upon by Allenby
to play a still greater part from now on, because it was the only
force between the crumbling Turkish divisions and Anatolia, toward
which they must retreat.

Lawrence had flown to Palestine for aëroplanes because the Germans
had nine of them near Deraa with which they were bombing Feisal’s
followers out of the ground. One of the pilots was a Captain
Peters, and another was a Captain Ross Smith, who later became
world famous and was knighted for flying from England to Australia.
Lord Winterton gives us a graphic picture of the events of that
morning in a scintillating article in “Blackwood’s”:

  While L. and the airmen were having breakfast with us,
  a Turkish ’plane was observed, making straight for us. One
  of the airmen . . . hurried off to down the intruder.
  This he successfully did, and the Turkish ’plane fell in
  flames near the railway. He then returned and finished his
  porridge, which had been kept hot for him meanwhile! But
  not for him a peaceful breakfast that morning. He had
  barely reached the marmalade stage when another Turkish
  ’plane appeared. Up hurried the Australian again; but
  this Turk was too wily and scuttled back to Deraa, only
  to be chased by P. on another machine, which sent him down
  in flames.

That night the Germans burnt all of their remaining machines, and
from that moment the British airmen had the air above North Arabia,
Palestine, and Syria to themselves.

That afternoon a giant Handley-Page arrived from Palestine with
General Borton, commander of Allenby’s air squadrons, as the
passenger and Ross Smith as the pilot. They brought forty-seven
tins of petrol and also a supply of tea for Lawrence, Winterton,
and companions. This was the first time that a great night-bombing
plane ever flew over the enemy lines by day. The purpose was for
propaganda, and so profoundly were the tribesmen impressed by this
vast bird, which was several times larger than any they had thus
far seen, that all of the peoples of the Hauran, who had been
reluctant to coöperate with Emir Feisal, immediately swore
allegiance to the Arab cause and galloped in on their horses, with
their rifles popping off into the air, eager to charge the Turks,
or at least make a noisy display of valor.

The next day the infantry under General Jaffer Pasha, the jovial
commander-in-chief of Colonel Joyce’s regulars, went down to have
a look at the first large bridge which Lawrence had dynamited in
the vicinity of Deraa. They found it nearly repaired, but after a
sharp fight they drove off its guards, who were persistent and game
German machine-gunners, destroyed more of the line, and then
proceeded to burn the great timber framework which had been erected
by the Turks and Germans during the intervening seven days. In this
rather sharp encounter the armored cars, the French detachment
under Captain Pisani, and the Rualla Horse under Nuri Shaalan
plunged into the heart of things. Nuri is a quiet retiring man of
few words and plenty of deeds. He turned out to be unusually
intelligent, well informed, decisive, and full of quiet humor.
Lawrence once remarked to me that he not only was the chief of the
largest tribe in all the desert but one of the finest Arab sheiks
he had ever met, and that the members of his tribe were like wax
in his hands because “he knows what should be done and does it.”

When Lawrence started his operations around Deraa, von Sanders did
exactly what his opponents wanted him to do. He sent his last
reserves up to Deraa, so that when Allenby’s troops once smashed
through the Turkish front lines they had fairly clear going ahead
of them. At the important railway junction of Afuleh, on the
evening of the nineteenth, the Turkish motor-lorries came streaming
in for supplies, not knowing that all their great depots were in
the hands of Allenby’s men. As they rumbled into the supply-station,
a British officer remarked politely to one and all, “Would you mind
going this way, please?” That lasted for four hours, until the news
spread through the Turkish back area that Allenby’s troops had
taken Afuleh, the railway junction in the center of the plain of
Esdraelon, where the Turkish railway which connects Constantinople,
Damascus, and the Holy Land branches out, one line extending down
into Samaria and the other east to Haifa on the Mediterranean.
Afuleh was the main supply-base of the whole Turkish army. After
Allenby had occupied Afuleh for fully six hours, a German plane
came down with orders to von Sanders from Hindenburg. The occupants
of the plane did not discover their predicament until they left
their machine and walked over to local headquarters to report. To
their chagrin they found themselves turning over their orders to
Allenby’s staff.

By September 24 Allenby’s forces had advanced so far that the
entire Turkish Fourth Army, concentrated around Amman and the
Jordan on the mission of attacking empty tents and horse-blankets,
had been ordered back to defend Deraa and Damascus. The Turkish
Fourth Army generals were infuriated when they discovered that the
railway line had been cut behind them, and attempted to retreat
north along their motor-roads with all their guns and transport.
Lawrence and his cavalry did not intend to pave their retreat with
roses. Stationed on the hills they poured down such an incessant
stream of bullets that the Turks were forced to abandon all their
guns and carts between Mafrak and Nasib. Hundreds were slaughtered.
The formal column of retreat broke up into a confused mass of
fugitives, who never had a minute’s peace to reform their lines.
British aëroplanes added the finishing touch by dropping bombs,
and the Turkish Fourth Army scattered panic-stricken in all
directions.

Lawrence now decided to put himself between Deraa and Damascus,
hoping to force the immediate evacuation of Deraa and thus pick up
the sorry fragments of the crack Turkish Fourth Army as it emerged
from Deraa, and also harass other remnants of the Turkish armies
in Palestine that might attempt to escape north. Accordingly, at
the head of his camel corps, he made a hurried forced march
northward on the twenty-fifth, and by the afternoon of the
twenty-sixth swept down on the Turkish railway near Ghazale and
Ezra on the road to Damascus. With him were Nasir, Nuri, Auda, and
the Druses—“names with which to hush children even in the daytime,”
to quote Lawrence himself. His rapid manœuvers took the
panic-stricken Turks completely by surprise. Just the previous day
they had worked feverishly on the railway line and had reopened it
for traffic at the points where Lawrence had damaged it a week
earlier. He planted a few hundred tulips, putting the line out of
commission permanently and penning six complete trains in Deraa.
Fantastic reports of disaster spread like wildfire throughout
Syria, and the Turks at once began the evacuation of Deraa by road.

By dawn of the twenty-seventh, Lawrence and his cavalry were
already out scouting the surrounding country and had captured two
Austro-Turk machine-gun companies placed across a road to oppose
Allenby’s approaching columns. Then Lawrence climbed to the summit
of a high hill in the vicinity called Sheik Saad, whence he could
sweep the country-side with his glasses. Whenever he saw a small
enemy column appearing on the horizon, he jumped on his horse and,
accompanied by some nine hundred picked men only too eager for that
kind of diversion, charged into the midst of them as if they had
been tin soldiers and serenely took them all prisoners. If from
his observation station on the hill he saw a column that was too
large to tackle, he lay low and let it pass.

About noon an aëroplane dropped Lawrence a message stating that
two columns of Turks were advancing on him. One, six thousand
strong, was coming from Deraa; the other, two thousand strong, from
Mazerib. Lawrence decided that the second was about his size.
Sending for some of his regulars, who were gathering stray Turks
like daisies a few miles away, he dashed off to intercept the enemy
near Tafas. At the same time he sent the Hauran horsemen in the
other direction to get around behind them and hang on the skirts
of the column in order to annoy them. The Turks reached Tafas a
short time before Lawrence and brutally mistreated all the women
and children of the village. Shereef Bey, commander of the Turkish
Lancers, at the rear-guard of the column, ordered all the people
massacred, including the women and children. Tallal, head sheik of
this village of Tafas, who had been a great tower of strength with
Lawrence from the beginning and one of the boldest horsemen in
North Arabia, was riding at the front of the Arab column with
Lawrence and Auda Abu Tayi when he came upon the wives and children
of his kinsmen lying in pools of blood in the road. Several years
after the war one of Lawrence’s poet friends in England got married,
and when Lawrence expressed regret at not having enough money to
buy an appropriate wedding present the poet suggested that he might
let him have a few pages of his diary instead. The wish was granted,
and the poet disposed of the pages to “The World’s Work” for
publication in America. The portion sold happened to include
Lawrence’s story of the death of the gallant Sheik Tallal el
Hareidhin:

  We left Abd el Main there and rode on past the other
  bodies, now seen clearly in the sunlight to be men, women
  and four babies, toward the village whose loneliness we
  knew meant that it was full of death and horror. On the
  outskirts were the low mud walls of some sheep-folds, and
  on one lay something red and white. I looked nearer, and
  saw the body of a woman folded across it, face downward,
  nailed there by a saw-bayonet whose haft stuck hideously
  into the air from between her naked legs. She had been
  pregnant, and about her were others, perhaps twenty in
  all, variously killed, but laid out to accord with an obscene
  taste. The Zaagi burst out in wild peals of laughter, in
  which some of those who were not sick joined hysterically.
  It was a sight near madness, the more desolate for the warm
  sunshine and the clean air of this upland afternoon. I
  said: “The best of you brings me the most Turkish dead”;
  and we turned and rode as fast as we might in the direction
  of the fading enemy. On our way we shot down those of
  them fallen out by the roadside who came imploring our
  pity.

  Tallal had seen something of what we had seen. He
  gave one moan like a hurt animal, and then slowly rode
  to the higher ground, and sat there a long while on his mare,
  shivering and looking fixedly after the Turks. I moved
  toward him to speak to him, but Auda caught my rein and
  stayed me. After some minutes Tallal very slowly drew
  his headcloth about his face, and then seemed to take hold
  of himself, for he dashed his stirrups into his horse’s flanks
  and galloped headlong, bending low in the saddle and swaying
  as though he would fall, straight at the main body of the
  enemy. It was a long ride, down the gentle slope and
  across the hollow, and we all sat there like stone while he
  rushed forward, the drumming of his horse’s hoofs sounding
  unnaturally loud in our ears. We had stopped shooting
  and the Turks had stopped shooting; both armies
  waited for him. He flew on in this hushed evening, till he
  was only a few lengths from the enemy. Then he sat up in
  the saddle and cried his war-cry “Tallal, Tallal” twice in a
  tremendous voice. Instantly, all their rifles and machine-guns
  crashed out together, and he and his mare, riddled
  through and through with bullets, fell dead among their
  lance points.

  Auda looked very cold and grim. “God give him mercy!
  We will take his price.” He shook his rein and moved
  slowly forward after the enemy. We called up the
  peasantry, now all drunk with fear and blood, and sent them
  from this side and from that against the retreating column.
  Auda led them like the old lion of battle that he is. By a
  skilful turn he drove the enemy into bad ground and split
  their column into three parts. The third part, the smallest,
  was mostly made up of German and Austrian gunners,
  grouped round three motor-cars which presumably carried
  high officers. They fought magnificently and drove off our
  attacks time and again, despite our desperation. The
  Arabs were fighting like devils, the sweat blinding our eyes,
  our throats parched with dust, and the agony of cruelty
  and revenge which was burning in our bodies and twisting
  our hands about so that we could hardly shoot. By my
  orders they were to take no prisoners—for the first time
  in the war.

This account of the death of Tallal el Hareidhin of Tafas, in
Lawrence’s own words, shows us what marvelous descriptive powers
this young soldier-scholar has at his command, and gives us a hint
of the masterpiece that the world should one day receive from his
pen.

Two German machine-gun companies had resisted magnificently and
escaped, with the Turkish commander-in-chief, Djemal Pasha, in his
car in their midst. The Arabs wiped out the second section
completely after a bitter hand-to-hand struggle. No prisoners were
taken, because the Arabs were wild with rage over the Tafas
massacre. Two hundred and fifty German prisoners had been captured
during the day, but when the Arabs discovered one of Lawrence’s
men with a fractured thigh pinned to the ground with two German
bayonets, they acted like enraged bulls. Turning their machine-guns
on the remaining prisoners they wiped them out.

After the encounter, Nuri Shaalan, at the head of the Rualla horse,
rode straight into the main street of Deraa. There were two or
three fights on the way, but they took the town in a whirlwind
gallop. The next morning Nuri returned to Lawrence at Tafas with
five hundred infantry prisoners and the freedom of the town of
Deraa. Some of Allenby’s troops arrived in Deraa that day also.

Lawrence and his army spent that night—and a very uneasy night it
was—on Sheik Saad hill. He did not feel certain of victory since
there was always a risk of his small force being washed away by a
great wave of the enemy in retreat. All that night the Hauran
horsemen clung tenaciously to the great Turkish column from Deraa,
made up of six thousand men, which Lawrence had not dared engage
in pitched battle. Instead of sleeping with the regular troops at
Sheik Saad, Lawrence spent part of the night helping the Hauran
cavalry, and at dawn he rode off to the westward with a handful of
men until he met the outposts of the fourth cavalry division of
the British army. After guiding them into Deraa and starting them
off on their northward march toward Damascus, Lawrence galloped
back full speed to the Hauran cavalry. Although the Turkish column
when it left Deraa was six thousand strong, at the end of
twenty-four hours only five thousand remained. One thousand had
been picked off by the Bedouins. Eighteen hours more and there were
three thousand; and after a point called Kiswe, where Lawrence
headed off the remnant of the Turkish Fourth Army and flung them
into one of Allenby’s cavalry brigades coming from the southwest,
only two thousand remained.

In all, Lawrence, Joyce, Jaffer, and Nuri, and their scattered
force of wild Bedouins and regular camel corps had killed about
five thousand of the Turks in this last phase of the campaign and
captured more than eight thousand of them, as well as one hundred
and fifty machine-guns and thirty cannons. In addition to the
column of less than one thousand men who had started north from
Akaba with Lawrence, Auda Abu Tayi and two hundred of the best
fighting men of the Howeitat tribe took part in Lawrence’s war-dance
around Deraa, also two thousand Beni Sakhr, “the Sons of Hawks,”
from east of the Dead Sea, four thousand Rualla under Nuri Shaalan
from the North Arabian Desert, one thousand Druses from the Hauran,
and eight thousand Arab villagers from the Hauran.

In a letter which he wrote to me more than a year after the war,
Colonel Stirling, who had played a prominent rôle in this final
raid, summed up the effects of what the Arabs had done to help
Allenby overwhelm the Turks:

“This, after all,” wrote Colonel Stirling, “was the main
justification of our existence and of the money and time we had
spent on the Arab Revolt. The raid itself was really very dramatic
in that we started out, a small regular force of Arabs 400 strong
and marched 600 miles in 23 days through unmapped Arabia and came
in out of the blue—miles behind the Turkish main armies, and as an
absolute surprise. Two days before the British advance in Palestine
began we had cut three lines of railways and for five days allowed
no trains to get through to the Turkish armies. The result was that
when their retreat commenced they found all their advance food
depots and ammunition dumps were exhausted. During these days we
of course led a somewhat precarious existence, generally shifting
camp twice in a night to avoid being surprised. We were only a very
weak force then, you see, though by the time we got on and rushed
Damascus, something like 11,000 mounted Arabs had joined us.”

Some of the Arab horsemen rode right on that evening into Damascus,
where the burning ammunition-dumps turned night into day. Back at
Kiswe, just a few miles south of Damascus, and not far from where
Saul of Tarsus was dazzled by the light that transformed him into
Paul the interpreter of Christianity, the glare of the fires from
Damascus and the roar and reverberation of explosions kept Lawrence
awake most of the night. He was completely worn out. From September
13 to 30, he had caught only occasional snatches of sleep. Mounted
on a racing-camel or dashing about the country on an Arab steed,
riding inside the turret of an armored car or flying about in one
of the fighting planes, he had led the relentless existence demanded
of him in this great emergency of the war. Now the end of the war
was in sight in the Land of the Arabian Nights. But sleep was
difficult because all night long the Turks and Germans were blowing
up their ammunition-dumps eight miles north in Damascus. With each
explosion the earth shook, the sky went white, and splashes of red
tore great gaps in the night as shells went off in the air. “They
are burning Damascus,” Lawrence remarked to Stirling. Then he
rolled over in the sand and fell asleep.



  CHAPTER XXV


  LAWRENCE RULES IN DAMASCUS, AND THE TREACHERY OF THE ALGERIAN EMIR


The next morning they saw Damascus in the center of its gardens as
green and beautiful as any city in the world. The enchantment of
the scene, “like a dream that visits the light slumbers of the
morning—a dream dreamed but to vanish,” reminded Lawrence of the
Arab story that when Mohammed first came here as a camel-driver,
upon seeing Damascus from a distance, he refused to enter, saying
that man could only hope to enter paradise once. Coming out of the
desert and beholding this view, than which there is none more
enchanting and alluring in the world, it is no wonder Mohammed was
sorely tempted and even trembled for his soul. Seen from afar, this
oasis of verdure, rimmed round by yellow desert against a background
of snow-capped mountains, is indeed a pearl in an emerald setting.
So it is only natural that the desert-dweller should look upon it
as an earthly paradise.



  Photograph: “SIDI” LAWRENCE AND HIS “SONS”



  Photograph: “DRINKERS OF THE MILK OF WAR”



As the sun-rays fell aslant, weaving a fairy gossamer veil over
the minarets and cupolas of this dream city, Lawrence and Stirling
drove into Damascus in their famous Rolls-Royce, the Blue Mist.
They went straight to the town-hall and there called a meeting of
all the leading sheiks. Lawrence selected Shukri Ibn Ayubi, a
descendant of Saladin, to act as the first military governor under
the new régime. Then he appointed a chief of police, a director of
local transportation, and numerous other officials. These details
arranged, Shukri, Nuri Said, Auda Abu Tayi, Nuri Shalaan, and
Lawrence, at the head of their Bedouin irregulars, proceeded
through the streets of Damascus.

The twenty-nine-year-old commander-in-chief of the greatest army
that had been raised in Arabia for five centuries, who in less than
a year had made himself the most important man in Arabia since the
days of the great Calif Harun al Rashid, made his official entry
into this ancient capital of the old Arabian Empire at seven
o’clock on the morning of October 31. The entire population,
together with tens of thousands of Bedouins from the fringes of
the desert, packed the “street that is called straight” as Lawrence
entered the gate, dressed in the garb of a prince of Mecca. All
realized that at last their glorious city had been freed from the
Turkish yoke. Howling dervishes ran in front of him, dancing and
sticking knives into their flesh, while behind him came his flying
column of picturesque Arabian knights. For months they had heard
of the exploits of Shereef Lawrence, but now for the first time
they saw the mysterious Englishman who had united the desert tribes
and driven the Turks from Arabia. As they saw him come swinging
along through the bazaars on the back of his camel, it seemed as
though all the people of Damascus shouted his name and Feisal’s in
one joyful chorus. For ten miles and more along the streets of
this, the oldest city in the world that still remains standing,
the crowds gave the young Englishman one of the greatest ovations
ever given to any man. Dr. John Finley, of the American Red Cross,
who came north with Allenby, said, in describing it, that “there
were scenes of joy and ecstasy such as may never be witnessed on
this earth again. The bazaars were lined with hundreds of thousands
of people. The ‘street that is called straight’ was so packed that
the horses and camels could hardly squirm through. The housetops
were crowded. The people hung priceless Oriental carpets from their
balconies and showered Lawrence and his companions with silken
head-cloths, flowers and attar of roses.”

Fortunately for the Arabs, Allenby had ordered Light Horse Harry
Chauvel to hold his Australians back and let Feisal’s advance-guard
enter the city first, and Allenby also had not given any arbitrary
orders regarding the establishment of a temporary government in
Damascus. So Lawrence was astute enough to see to it that
representatives of the Arabian army entered just ahead of the
British, thereby giving Emir Feisal first possession.

Colonel Lawrence remained in Damascus only four days. But during
that time he was the virtual ruler of the city, and one of his
first moves was to visit the tomb of Saladin, where the kaiser,
back in 1898, had placed a satin flag and a bronze laurel wreath
inscribed in Turkish and Arabic: “From one great emperor to
another.” The wreath and inscription adorned with the Prussian
eagle had irritated Lawrence on his pre-war visits to Damascus,
and early in the campaign, when they were far south at Yenbo,
Lawrence and Feisal had vowed that they would not forget Saladin’s
tomb. The bronze wreath now adorns the office of the curator of
the British War Museum, while the kaiser’s flag returned with me
to America.

During Lawrence’s brief rule of Damascus, the kaleidoscopic bazaars
of that most orthodox of all Oriental cities were seething with
excitement. Only his intimate acquaintance with the personal
caprices of the conspirators behind the innumerable intrigues and
counter-intrigues made it possible for him to control the situation.
Even then there were thrilling incidents and danger from assassins.

On November 2 a riot broke out in Damascus, a disturbance that
might easily have blossomed into a counter-revolution. The moving
spirit in it was an Algerian emir, one Abd el Keder, who had long
been an arch-enemy of King Hussein and his sons. This blackguard
was the grandson of the celebrated Emir Abd el Keder, who for many
years had fought the French in Algiers and, when finally defeated,
had fled to Damascus. His two grandsons, Emir Muhammed Said and
Emir Abd el Keder, played an unsavory part in the war in the Near
East. The former served as an agent of the Germans and Turks in
Africa, where he exhorted the Senussi of the Sahara to invade
Egypt, while his younger and even more truculent brother, Abd el
Keder, as a super-spy for Enver Pasha, joined the Shereefian army.
A mock escape from Constantinople gave Abd el Keder all the alibi
needed for him to get into the good graces of the Arabs, and when
he arrived across the desert at Feisal’s headquarters in Akaba he
posed as an Arab Nationalist. In fact, so plausible and eloquent
was he, and so seemingly genuine were the promises of coöperation
which he made, that even King Hussein welcomed him to Mecca and
gave him an honorary title.

Then when Allenby launched his first great drive which resulted in
the capture of Beersheba, Gaza, Jerusalem, and Jericho, Lawrence
was asked to coöperate by destroying an important railway bridge
between the Turkish army and its Damascus base. It so happened that
Abd el Keder was the feudal lord controlling much of the region
round about the bridge, and when Feisal discussed the project with
him he at once begged to be allowed to take part in the raid. But
after accompanying Lawrence on his trek north for many days, until
the party was actually within a few miles of the bridge, Abd el
Keder and his cavalcade of followers galloped off in the desert
night and delivered the details of Lawrence’s plan to the German
and Turkish staff. Although this left him with only a few men,
Lawrence nevertheless made a desperate but unsuccessful attempt to
destroy the bridge, an adventure from which he barely escaped with
his life.

The Turks at first suspected their Algerian spy of double-crossing
them and of really having turned pro-Arab, but they finally released
him and then showered him with honors. Later on, when Allenby made
his last great drive toward Damascus, Abd el Keder was sent among
the Syrian villagers to cajole them into remaining loyal to their
Ottoman rulers. But when the cunning Algerian and his brother saw
that the Turkish retreat was degenerating into a _débâcle_, their
enthusiasm for their friends, Enver, Talaat, and Djemal, vanished,
and they galloped to Damascus several hours ahead of Allenby and
Lawrence, hurriedly organized an Arab civil government with
themselves as the heads, and prepared a triumphal welcome for the
approaching British and Hedjaz armies. But, naturally, they were
a bit nonplussed to find the victors led by Colonel Lawrence, who
peremptorily ordered them to resign and then appointed men of Emir
Feisal’s choice in their stead. This so upset and enraged the
intriguing brothers that they drew their weapons and would have
attacked Lawrence had the others present at the council not disarmed
them. Then these two unpleasant but immensely rich Algerian emirs
collected together the members of their own personal body-guard,
who were mainly exiles like themselves, and paraded through the
streets making impassioned speeches denouncing Emir Feisal and King
Hussein as puppets of Lawrence and the British. They called upon
the Damascenes to strike a blow for the faith and launch a new
rebellion. Rioting soon broke out, and it took Lawrence’s men six
hours to clear the town. The rioting soon degenerated into pure
looting, and it was necessary for Lawrence, General Nuri Pasha,
Shukri Ayubi, and the other leaders of the Shereefian force to
resort to machine-gunning in the central square of Damascus and
impose peace by force, after killing and wounding a score or more.
The two turbulent Algerian emirs managed to hide, and for a month
they kept under cover, while they planned a new rebellion. But Abd
el Keder’s restless and impulsive spirit got the better of his
discretion, and in a moment of passion he seized his rifle, leaped
on his charger, and galloped down to Feisal’s palace, shouting for
Feisal to come out and fight him, and then started shooting. So
persistent was he that one of the Arab sentries, who had taken to
cover, sent a rifle-ball through his head and thus abruptly ended
the adventures of the Algerian emir.

After the fall of Damascus, the combined British and Arabian forces
occupied the Syrian seaport of Beyrouth, where the famous American
university is located that has done so much to inoculate the Near
East with the spirit of democracy. Here an incident occurred that
warned the Arabs of the diplomatic troubles ahead of them. As in
the case of Damascus, the Shereefian forces, through the local
people, took over the reins of government, but a few days later a
French representative (accompanied by a British officer) came along
and demanded that the Arab flag be hauled down from the town-hall
so that the French tricolor could be raised in its stead. Whereupon
the Arab governor laid his pistol on the table and said: “There is
my revolver. You may shoot me if you like, but I will not take down
the flag!” However, after another three days Allenby wired that no
flag at all should fly over Beyrouth, and that a French officer
should rule the city in the name of all the Allies. From that date
the Arabs had to fight an all-uphill battle on the field of
diplomacy to keep from losing what they had fought for on the field
of war. And once again their champion was young Lawrence.

From Beyrouth the united British and Arab forces pushed on north
to Baalbek, the City of the Sun, where, in the days of the decline
of the Roman Empire, men had erected the mightiest temple on earth,
the columns of which still remain one of the wonders of the world.

Still unsatisfied, Allenby’s armored cars and Feisal’s racing
camelmen under the dashing Arab general, Nuri Said, swept on north
until they had driven the Turks out of Aleppo, one of the most
important strategical points in the East, so far as the Great War
was concerned. And then, if the Turks had not put down their arms,
they would have been driven north into the Golden Horn.

When Allenby and Lawrence captured Damascus and Aleppo and then
cut the Berlin-to-Bagdad Railway, the dream of the kaiser and the
Junkers for a Mitteleuropa reaching from the Baltic to the Persian
Gulf vanished into thin air!

When Turkey threw in her lot with the kaiser, she asserted that
she could mobilize an army of over a million men. But of that
million some fifty per cent were of Arab stock, and from the
outbreak of the Arabian revolution to the final collapse of Turkey
it is estimated that approximately four hundred thousand of them
deserted! The phenomenal number of desertions was due mainly to
two factors: the Arab Nationalist propaganda which Lawrence and
his associates had spread throughout the Near East, and the
brilliant success of the Arabian revolution. In fact, the desertions
alone more than repaid the Allies for backing the Shereefian cause.

In our swift journey north from Akaba to Aleppo with Lawrence, we
have made no reference to the sacred city of Medina and the fate
of the important Turkish garrison there. Although Holy Arabia was
now no longer under Turkish rule, Ottoman forces still occupied
the city famed for the tomb of the Prophet. To be sure, Feisal’s
brother, Emir Abdullah, had long kept it surrounded with an army;
and indeed the fact that the Turks had managed to hold on to Medina
had proved to be one of the blessings of Allah for the Arabs
because all of the supplies required by the garrison were shipped
down across the desert from Syria, and Lawrence had seen to it that
a very considerable part went to the Arabs instead of the intended
destination. In fact Lawrence’s crop of tulips, planted along the
Damascus-Medina railway, had brought forth a bountiful harvest of
Turkish food-supplies, ammunition, and other military stores.

In explaining the reason for not driving the Turks out of Medina,
writing in “The Army Quarterly,” Colonel Lawrence said: “. . . we
were so weak physically that we could not let the metaphysical
weapon rust unused. We had won a province when we had taught the
civilians in it to die for our ideal of freedom; the presence or
absence of the enemy was a secondary matter.

“These reasonings showed me that the idea of assaulting Medina, or
even starving it quickly into surrender, was not in accord with
our best strategy. We wanted the enemy to stay in Medina and in
every other harmless place in the largest numbers. The factor of
food would eventually confine him to the railways, but he was
welcome to the Hedjaz railway, and the trans-Jordan railway, and
the Palestine and Damascus and Aleppo railways, for the duration
of the war, so long as he gave us the other nine hundred and
ninety-nine thousandths of the Arab world. If he showed a
disposition to evacuate too soon, as a step to concentrating in
the small area which his numbers would dominate effectively, then
we would have to try and restore his confidence, not harshly, but
by reducing our enterprises against him. Our ideal was to keep his
railway just working, but only just, with the maximum of loss and
discomfort to him.”

In fact, so little of what was sent down from Syria ever reached
the garrison that for months prior to the Armistice this isolated
Turkish force in Medina had been reduced to a diet of nothing but
dates, gathered from the palms for which the oasis is celebrated.
Even the roofs of all the houses in the city had been torn down
and used for fuel. But still the garrison would not give in, for
the commander, Fakhri-ed-din, was a courageous, determined,
stubborn, and fanatical general.

Even when the news reached him that the combined British and Arab
armies had captured Damascus and Aleppo, and the Turkish forces in
Syria had been completely overwhelmed and compelled to sign an
armistice, and even though Fakhri Pasha knew that it was futile
for him to attempt to hold out any longer, since the war was all
over and he and his garrison were isolated in the midst of the
desert a thousand miles from Constantinople, still this Turkish
tiger refused to acknowledge defeat.

Days went by, and then weeks elapsed. The Medina garrison was now
reduced to worse straits than the British at Kut-el-Amara before
the surrender of Townsend. Of the twenty thousand men who had made
up the defending force, less than eleven thousand now remained.
But still Fakhri Pasha swore on the Koran that rather than surrender
to the Arabs and British he would blow up the Tomb of Mohammed and
wipe out himself and all of his men. The British even guaranteed
Fakhri that he and his troops would be protected from any possible
rapacity of the Bedouin, but still the old tiger stood like adamant.

His troops, however, were not so fanatical and longed to get back
to their homes in Anatolia. So they finally mutinied, arrested
their gallant commander-in-chief, and surrendered the city to Emir
Abdullah on January 10, 1919, months after the war was all over.
Surely the name of General Fakhri-ed-din deserves a high place in
Turkish history; for generations to come Arab mothers of Medina
will use it as a means of hushing their babes.

After the dramatic surrender of Medina, Fakhri Pasha was no longer
heard of in the Near East and seemed to have completely vanished
from the picture. But sometime afterward, when we were traveling
in little known parts of Central Asia, I encountered the defender
of Medina in the city of Kabul, at the court of the emir of
Afghanistan. He apparently had lost none of his fire, and in his
capacity of Turkish ambassador to the Afghans was reported to be
doing his utmost to keep the emir of Afghanistan from becoming
friendly with the British in India.

If Turkey had a million fighting men with the fighting spirit of
Fakhri-ed-din, she not only could regain all of her old provinces
but could conquer the Near East and build up an empire that would
surpass the ancient glory of the Great Moguls.



  CHAPTER XXVI


  TALES OF THE SECRET CORPS


Although none played quite so spectacular a part as Lawrence, there
were at least a score of other dashing officers who distinguished
themselves in Arabia, and a volume might well be, and in fact
should be, written about the exploits of each.

All of Britain’s coöperation with the Arabs was arranged by a
secret service department, the Near Eastern Intelligence Corps,
created in the days when Sir Henry McMahon was still high
commissioner for Egypt. Upon his retirement the control of this
branch of the service passed on to his successor, Sir Reginald
Wingate, and to Sir Edmund (now Field-Marshal Viscount) Allenby.
Although these three distinguished men each personally encouraged
the Arabs and took an active interest in the Shereefian revolt, no
man among those who did not actually visit Arabia deserves more
credit for the success of the revolution than Sir Gilbert F.
Clayton, the organizer of this secret corps.

During the early days of the operations in the Near East, General
Clayton made his headquarters in Cairo. There he gathered together
a group of brilliant men who were each intimately acquainted with
some corner of the Near East and with some one particular group of
its bewildering mosaic of peoples. Among them were students of
political affairs, men like Mark Sykes and Aubrey Herbert; then
there was Hogarth, the famous antiquarian and geographer; Cornwallis
and Joyce, veterans from the Sudan; Woolley and Lawrence, who were
engaged in archæology in Mesopotamia; and many others, including
an engineer-adventurer of reckless daring by the name of Newcombe,
whom Lawrence described to me as “the most devastatingly energetic
person in the world.”

Although Colonel Lawrence had more train demolitions to his credit
than any one else, he was not the man who first introduced the
gentle sport of tulip-planting in Arabia. That honor must go to
Lieutenant-Colonel S. F. Newcombe, who might even have exceeded
Lawrence’s record as a train-wrecker and railway-demolisher had
not his fearless spirit and love of fighting resulted in his
spending the final stages of the war in a Turkish prison.

Prior to 1914 Newcombe had earned the reputation of being the
ablest engineer in the British army. The railway line which crosses
the Sudan Desert from the valley of the Nile to the Red Sea was
one of his efforts. Always a pioneer, he had surveyed and blazed
trails in Abyssinia, Persia, and various other regions that are
mere blobs on the map to most of us.

So engrossed did he become in each job that he also gained renown
for his forgetfulness as well as for his daring. After the capture
of El Wedj, in the early days of the Hedjaz revolt, he was placed
in temporary command of that port. Living with him were several
other officials, but as the colonel happened to be the only one
who had a servant they were all obliged to depend upon him for mess
arrangements. But Newcombe attended to this unimportant phase of
his day’s activity in the most casual manner, if at all, and when
one o’clock came around and some one suggested, “Now for a bit of
lunch,” it usually developed that Newcombe had forgotten to give
instructions; and as a result they would have to compromise by
telescoping lunch and tea at two o’clock.

Colonel Newcombe played a meteoric part in Arabian affairs for
seven months and initiated the methods of railway destruction which
Lawrence afterward applied so effectively. Although he donned Arab
garb he was utterly un-Oriental in his ways and plunged headlong
into his work both day and night at such a furious pace that no
one could keep up with him. Then at the end of seven months in the
desert he rejoined the British army in Palestine and in the attack
on Beersheba carried out one of the most daring actions of the war.

Allenby’s cavalry and infantry were closing in on Beersheba from
the west, south, and east. But to the north of that ancient home
of Abraham runs the Beersheba-Hebron-Jerusalem Road, in those days
the main artery of the Turkish line of communications. Newcombe,
and one hundred Australians who had volunteered to follow him,
crept through the Turkish lines by night just before the attack on
Beersheba was launched. Their job was to attempt to cut the Hebron
Road and hold up all Turkish supplies and reinforcements until
Allenby and his army had routed the Turkish forces and taken
Beersheba. It was a desperate thing to attempt, but for three days
and nights Newcombe and his band of Australians remained astride
that road and outfought fifty times their number. Eventually they
were surrounded on a hill-top, and the few lucky enough to be still
alive were captured.

It happened that Colonel Newcombe was the highest ranking British
officer whom the Turks had thus far captured in Palestine, and so
they made quite a fuss over him when he was paraded through the
streets of Jerusalem on his way to prison in Anatolia.

But months later, after having survived smallpox and all of the
other luxuries of Turkish prison life, the colonel escaped from
his cell in Constantinople through the aid of a beautiful Syrian
girl, who then concealed him in her home. This was shortly before
the Turkish collapse, and Newcombe, preferring the thrills of life
in disguise in Constantinople to the monotony that might follow
complete escape from Turkey, remained in Stamboul in order to start
an underground bureau of propaganda right in the heart of enemy
territory. So successful was he that eventually he got into touch
with a group of prominent Turks who were opposed to the pan-German
policy of Talaat and Enver, and he even helped them arrange the
Armistice which resulted in Turkey’s dropping out of the war. Then,
as any born hero of melodrama would be expected to do as the climax
to his romantic career, he married the beautiful Syrian girl who
had helped him escape—and we hope lived happily ever after.



  Photograph: FEISAL AND LAWRENCE CONFERRING WITH BEDOUIN SHEIKS



  Photograph: SUNSET OVER THE MOUNTAIN OF EDOM



  Photograph: OUR CARAVAN APPROACHING THE “LOST CITY”



Among the men most actively engaged in arranging British aid for
the Arabs and in advising them on military matters were Colonel C.
E. Wilson, Colonel K. Cornwallis, Lieutenant-Colonel Allan Dawney,
and Commander D. G. Hogarth. Colonel Wilson was the governor of
the Red Sea Province of the Sudan when Shereef Hussein and his sons
first overthrew the Turks in Mecca, and he engineered considerable
surreptitious gun-running to keep the revolt alive until the Allies
had time to make up their minds officially to help the Arabs.
Colonel Wilson loaded British ships with ammunition and rifles at
Port Sudan and then transferred them to sailing dhows in the middle
of the Red Sea. These dhows then landed the supplies secretly along
the Arabian coast, where they were distributed to the Bedouins.
But after the fall of Mecca and Jeddah he left his administrative
work in the Sudan and crossed over to Jeddah, where he remained in
charge of British activities in the southern Hedjaz and as adviser
to Shereef Hussein until the termination of the war. In fact it
was Colonel Wilson, in company with General Clayton and Ronald
Storrs, the Oriental secretary to the high commissioner for Egypt,
who opened up the first negotiations between Britain and the
leaders of the Arab revolt. In spite of poor health Colonel Wilson
did particularly fine work.

Cornwallis, Dawney, and Hogarth spent the most of their time at
headquarters in Cairo at what was known as the Arab Bureau. Colonel
Cornwallis, who after the war was sent to Mesopotamia as one of
the principal British advisers to Feisal when that emir was
proclaimed king in Bagdad, was in charge of the Arab Bureau. He
personally superintended the political side of the work which
coöperation with the Arabs entailed, such as official negotiations
between Britain and the newly established government of the kingdom
of the Hedjaz, and the important business of the subsidy which was
granted to King Hussein to enable him to continue his campaign. In
addition Colonel Cornwallis supervised the extremely important work
of winning recruits for the Shereefian army from the Ottoman troops
of Arab blood who were in the prison-camps of Syria, Palestine,
Egypt, and Mesopotamia. Lawrence often referred to the genius of
Cornwallis and seemed to regard him as indispensable to Arab
success.

Another brilliant officer who divided his time between the Arab
Bureau in Cairo, the desert, and Allenby’s headquarters in Palestine
was Lieutenant-Colonel Allan Dawney of the Coldstream Guards.
Although responsible for putting the Arabian campaign on a proper
and efficient military basis for personnel and service of supply,
Dawney’s main task was that of keeping Emir Feisal, Colonel
Lawrence, and the other leaders in Arabia in constant touch with
Allenby. Lawrence and he were intimate friends and worked in
perfect harmony. Dawney did everything possible to wangle the
equipment and everything else that Lawrence required. He also saw
to it that his own visits to Arabia allowed him enough time to take
part in a few raids, for he too was an ardent tulip-planter.

But so unusual was the nature of the desert war that it required
the diplomatic genius of at least one man to act as an intermediary
between Arabia and the Imperial Government in London. This delicate
task was left to a scholarly man of international renoun whose
suggestions could therefore hardly be disregarded even by a prime
minister and his War Cabinet. Sir Gilbert Clayton here again proved
himself a genius at selecting men by choosing D. G. Hogarth, head
of the Ashmolean Museum of Oxford, for this post, and in Hogarth
he not only picked a man famous as an antiquarian and archæologist
but one who had long been looked upon as the foremost living
authority on Arabia. Here again Lawrence was favored by fortune in
being associated with one who could hardly have been more ideally
qualified, for Commander Hogarth (he was given an honorary naval
commission to increase his official prestige) had known Lawrence
from childhood and had given him his start in the field of
archæology. Throughout the campaign Commander Hogarth was looked
upon by Lawrence and his colleagues as their counselor, philosopher,
and mediator whose delicate task it was to justify the various
steps taken in Arabia to the General Staff and the War Cabinet. He
also edited the secret publication at headquarters in Cairo called
“The Arab Bulletin,” of which only about four copies per edition
were printed: one for Lloyd George and his Cabinet, one for Allenby
and staff, one for Lawrence and associates in the desert, and one
for the file at the Arab Bureau.



  Photograph: THE NARROW DEFILE THAT LEADS TO THE “LOST CITY”



  Photograph: A ROSE-RED TEMPLE CARVED LIKE A CAMEO
    FROM THE FACE OF THE MOUNTAIN



  CHAPTER XXVII


  JOYCE & CO., AND THE ARABIAN KNIGHTS OF THE AIR


The forces of the king of the Hedjaz, as previously stated, included
both regulars and irregulars; the latter were Bedouins mounted on
camels and horses, while the former were deserters from the Turkish
army, men of Arab blood conscripted into the Ottoman armies and
afterward captured by the British in Palestine and Mesopotamia.
There were nearly twenty thousand regulars specially trained as
infantry to attack those fortified positions which could not be
taken by Lawrence’s irregulars; they were under the leadership of
Lieutenant-Colonel P. C. Joyce, who like Lawrence was an Irishman,
and who next to Lawrence probably played a more important rôle in
the campaign than any one else. Unlike Lawrence, Joyce was a
soldier by profession, an officer in the Connaught Rangers with a
splendid record for service in the Boer War and in Egypt and the
Sudan. Physically there was a further difference between them, for
while Lawrence stood barely five feet three his colleague loomed
well over six feet three. None but the largest ship of the desert
could navigate under Joyce’s bulk, so that he seldom mounted a
camel. But when he did, it looked like one mountain on top of
another.

Colonel Joyce spent nearly a year building up an army to send
against the strongly fortified city of Medina. It was to be under
the leadership of Emir Ali. At last, when by the grace of Allah
all seemed in readiness, a courier from Emir Ali handed a message
to Joyce to be forwarded on to his Majesty the king in Mecca with
all possible despatch. The message read:

  O Father of Mercies and Lord of the Earth, greetings
  from thy son:

  Thy heroic army awaits but the command for its
  victorious advance upon the Turks. Yet for lack of one
  mere detail are we delayed. Our valorous officers swear
  that it would be futile for them to advance without swords.
  Wherefore I implore thee to send thirty of thy Damascus
  blades in scabbards of beaten gold in order that they may
  be satisfied.

              Thy Slave.

But fortunately Colonel Joyce proved himself capable of coping with
the thousand and one unexpected difficulties that arose, for in
addition to his ability to speak Arabic he had many other valuable
qualifications. For instance he was tactful and cool and utterly
imperturbable, could not be hustled under any circumstances, was
painstaking, and above all patient beyond the normal vanishing-point
of patience as practised in the Occident. So while Lawrence spent
his time with his Bedouin rabble, Joyce demonstrated his military
ability by building up the auxiliary force of regulars from the
medley of Syrians, Palestinians, and Bagdadis who were attracted
to the Shereefian banner. But he also now and then found time to
join Lawrence on a raid or to lead a demolition expedition of his
own. In fact on one occasion he destroyed seven small bridges and
tore up two thousand rails on the Turkish railway, between the
stations of Toweira and Hedia.

There were a number of other officers who fought with the Arabs
and took part in the fascinating game of planting tulips and
blowing up the Turkish railway. Among these were Lieutenant-Colonel
W. F. Stirling, Major P. G. W. Maynard of the Irish Rifles, who
had been a judge in a remote corner of the Sudan, Major H. W.
Young, Major William E. Marshall, Captain E. Scott Higgins, Captain
H. S. Hornby, and Lieutenant H. Garland, who taught demolition to
the Arabs. Nearly all of the men who fought in Arabia had annexed
various military honors long before they were selected to play a
part in the war in the Land of the Arabian Nights, but none had
been quite so generously decorated as Stirling, who not only was
a veteran of the South African War but had found time to serve with
high distinction in the Royal Flying Corps before he crashed and
nearly lost his life while on a reconnaissance flight over one of
the most inhospitable corners of Arabia. Doomed to serve the
remainder of the war on the ground, he was selected as the right
type of man for the Hedjaz show. He joined the Arabs just as they
were about to invade Syria and was with Lawrence when the latter
reached Damascus. Young, formerly of the Intelligence Department
in Mesopotamia, was another who reveled in the manipulation of high
explosives. During the final stage of the campaign he took over
the all-important job of organizing the transport system, but among
his numerous achievements by no means the least was the success he
met in raising a silky beard that was the envy of his colleagues
and which transformed him into an ideal sheik.

Perhaps the most universally liked, both by British and Arabs, of
all the Europeans who took part in the desert war was Lawrence’s
tent-mate and intimate friend, an optimistic Scot of the Royal Army
Medical Corps with a Highland brogue thicker than Harry Lauder’s,
who divided his affections between his bacillus menagerie and
tulip-planting. Under him were two other medical men, Captains
Ramsay and McKibbin. But Major Marshall, although a quiet, shy man
of science whose whole life had been devoted to the realm of
test-tubes, microscopes, and a search for mysterious microbes in
the jungles of tropical Africa, had proved himself enough of a
soldier to win the Military Cross in the battle of the Somme and
other honors in Arabia. When Lawrence was away on an expedition
Marshall would transform their tent at Akaba into a zoo for cholera,
typhus, and plague bacillus. Incidentally he usually managed to
contract most of the diseases the mysteries of which he sought to
solve. Then on his trips into the desert he would fill his
stretchers with high explosives and after a raid would throw out
all the remaining dynamite and substitute the wounded. After
inflicting casualties among the Turks he would proceed to bandage
them up. So successful was he as a combined medical officer and
soldier that after the war he was appointed adviser to the king of
the Hedjaz and for several years remained at Jeddah as the British
resident.



  Photograph: WE RODE INTO THE AUDITORIUM ON OUR CAMELS



  Photograph:  “PHARAOH’S TREASURY” OR THE “TEMPLE OF ISIS”



But of all the tulip-planters there was certainly none more daring
than Captain H. S. Hornby, who like Newcombe had been an engineer.
He had received his preliminary schooling in adventure on the Gold
Coast, in the heart of the Congo, and in other out-of-the-way
corners of the earth, and so reckless was he that even the wild
Bedouins regarded him as stark mad. But his career as a dynamiter
of trains came to an untimely end when a part of a mine exploded
in his face, leaving him partially blind and deaf. The Arabs who
were with him had great difficulty in getting him back to Akaba
alive, and from then on he spent his time in administrative work.

At the base-camp in Akaba were two other officers, Major T. H.
Scott, of the Inniskilling Fusiliers, and Captain Raymond Goslett.
Scott specialized in mirth and money, while Goslett dispensed
everything from boots to flour. In Scott’s tent were boxes of
sovereigns, gold conscripted from every corner of the Empire to
help arouse enthusiasm in the breasts of the temperamental Bedouins
whenever the spirits of those rather fickle gentlemen began to
flag. The only guardian of all these boxes of golden “goblins” was
a dog about the size of a squirrel, which Major Scott called his
Bulgarian weasel-hound. His associate, Captain Goslett, was the
czar of the supply and commissary department, excepting when Auda
Abu Tayi or some of Lawrence’s other brigands could no longer
resist the temptation of looting their own base-camp.

Then there were the officers in command of the armored cars and
light mobile artillery: Captains Gillman, Dowsett, and Brodie, and
Lieutenants Greenhill, Wade, and Pascoe. Although seriously
handicapped by lack of roads, they somehow managed to scale the
barren mountains and get into action on many occasions, and they
were mixed up in innumerable thrilling adventures during the latter
stages of the campaign.

But of all the unpleasant jobs, surely the airmen who were sent
down to satisfy the Arabs, who insisted that their army like the
Turks should have birds that laid explosive eggs, were the least
to be envied. With Akaba as their base-camp they would sally forth
to locate approaching Turkish patrols and bomb the enemy garrisons
along the Damascus-Medina Railway. Nowhere in the world have
aviators ever taken greater risks except perhaps in East Africa
and on the Afghan frontier. When a plane left Akaba the pilot and
observer knew full well that if they encountered engine-trouble
they were for it, because they were constantly flying over
unexplored, unmapped country, as uninviting as the mountains of
the moon. On one occasion when we were trekking across the mountains
of the Edom on our way to the “rose-red city of Petra,” we heard
the drone of a battle-plane overhead, and as we gazed about at that
jagged, unfriendly landscape, with the blue Arabian sky punctured
everywhere by sharp lava mountains, our admiration for those
reckless British Elijahs, soaring thousands of feet above us,
increased appreciably.

These sheiks of the air were first under a Captain Harold
Furness-Williams; although during the later stages of the campaign
an embryo parson, Captain Victor Siddons, became the flight-commander.
On one occasion Furness-Williams flew from Egypt to Arabia, by way
of the Sinai desert. Hung around the fuselage and back struts he
carried a precious cargo consisting of four dozen bottles of Bass,
which his fellow-sufferers in that thirsty land had commissioned
him to bring. But under the eyes of his expectant friends the
unfortunate aviator made a bad landing, the plane turned over, and
every bottle was smashed. They told him that they would sooner have
seen his blood soaking into the sands of the desert than that
priceless liquid.

Captain Furness-Williams and his associates spent a portion of
their spare time in taking the Arab chiefs for joy-rides. They gave
old Auda Abu Tayi his first “flip,” and that cheerful chieftain,
who had already demonstrated his courage by marrying twenty-eight
wives, with the inborn poetic spirit of the desert declared upon
his return to earth that he deeply regretted he had failed to take
his rifle aloft with him. Never, he said, had he had such a splendid
opportunity for taking pot-shots at all his “friends” in Akaba.

Among the Arabian knights of the air were Lieutenants Divers,
Makins, Oldfield, Sefi, and several others, but the only one of
them who went right through the campaign to Damascus was Lieutenant
Junor, who dropped bombs during nearly every Arab battle and
survived to play a similar rôle on the equally wild Afghan Frontier
in India long after the World War.

In the southern area were a number of other officers of whom I saw
little or nothing, men like Colonel A. C. Parker, a nephew of
Kitchener, who was on the Red Sea coast for a short time and then
appointed governor of the vast mountain and desert region called
the Sinai Peninsula, where the children of Israel wandered for
forty years. There also was Lieutenant-Colonel J. R. Bassett,
transferred to Arabia from the War Office in London, who was second
in command to Colonel Wilson at Jeddah, and Major H. J. Goldie,
who described his headquarters in Jeddah as so hot that nothing
could live there but human beings, and they could just gasp. Over
around Medina, where Emir Abdullah’s army made things lively for
the large Turkish garrison, were two more demolition experts,
Majors W. A. Davenport and H. St. J. Garrood.



  Photograph: LOOKING OUT THROUGH THE DOORWAY OF THE TEMPLE,
    IN THE DISTANCE WE SEE THE NARROW DEFILE THROUGH WHICH WE
    CAME IN ENTERING THE “LOST CITY”



  Photograph: AN AMPHITHEATER HEWN OUT OF THE MOUNTAIN



But this brief enumeration of the other Europeans who played a part
in the desert war would not be complete without reference to the
French. Early in September, 1916, the French indicated their faith
in the Arab cause by sending a mission to Jeddah under the
leadership of a Colonel Bremond. The French were at a great
disadvantage simply because their Government could not give them
sufficient backing and the British had to furnish nearly everything
for them. This made it difficult for them to get a strong hold over
the Arabs, because the latter were aware of the circumstances. But
Captain Pisani, who led a detachment of French Algerians throughout
the campaign, had had unlimited experience in the Moroccan Desert
and did splendid sporting work against the Turkish railway in 1917,
and again in the final operations around Deraa in 1918.

The only other foreigners in the Hedjaz were some mixed Egyptian
troops and a Mohammedan machine-gun section from India.

One of the finest sporting achievements during the war in the Near
East was accomplished by a British civilian official, a Mr. H. St.
John Philby, who played no part in the Hedjaz campaign, but who
startled King Hussein one day by turning up in Bedouin costume at
his summer capital of Taif. Philby had been sent on a secret
mission to the court of Ibn Saud in the very heart of Central
Arabia, and he had accomplished the remarkable feat of trekking
right across Arabia from the Persian Gulf to the Red Sea through
a totally unknown region. Lawrence was so impressed with Philby’s
achievement and his skill in dealing with the Bedouins, that after
the war he was instrumental in having Philby appointed adviser to
the sultan of Transjordania.

Perhaps the most genuine-looking brigand of all the Europeans who
fought in the Arab rebellion was the Earl of Winterton. He wore a
huge beard and an Arab head-cloth and rode a tall racing-camel
bedecked with gorgeous trappings. Lord Winterton turned out to be
as much of a fire-eater in the field as he was back home in the
House of Commons when on one occasion a member from the Whitechapel
district interrupted him while he was making a speech. The earl
wheeled round, gave the disturber a withering look, and shouted,
“Silence in the Ghetto,” and the House simply howled.

In the desert the noble earl managed to look as disreputable as
possible and in appearance was as successful a brigand as Auda Abu
Tayi himself. One day Lord Winterton in his sheik’s regalia came
riding along on his camel on his way from Jaffa to Allenby’s
headquarters near Ramleh. There is a particularly attractive
stretch of road between those two Palestinian cities, but during
the war all natives on camels or donkeys or on foot were instructed
to take a side path so that the road could be reserved for the
interminable caravans of motor-lorries and whizzing staff cars.
Right up the middle of that sacred motor highway came Lord
Winterton, ambling along on his camel on a mission from the Arab
army to Allenby. A military police sergeant, on point duty directing
traffic, saw him and shouted, “Get off the road, you black bounder!”
Winterton placidly continued on his way; he was not accustomed to
being addressed with such levity and naturally assumed that the
sergeant was speaking to some one else. But the latter shouted
again: “I say, you black beggar,——,——, can’t you hear me talking
to you? I said get off this road and over there where you belong.”

Winterton pulled up his dromedary at this and replied as only one
of his social standing could reply: “Evidently, old chap, you don’t
know who I am. I am a major, a member of Parliament, and an earl!”
Whereupon the sergeant nearly collapsed but managed to salute
weakly and stammer: “Proceed, my lord, proceed,” or words to that
effect.

The most of the officers in Arabia were either colonels,
lieutenant-colonels, or majors. But rank made very little
difference, and there was a free-masonry among them such as did
not exist on any other front. Saluting was taboo, and in addressing
each other titles were dispensed with. Even when Lawrence had the
opportunity to become a general he declined the honor and gave as
his reason that he preferred not to be elevated in rank beyond his
associates. Each man had his own task and went his own way. Each
was a free-lance and conducted himself with much the same freedom
as did the knights of old.

In a letter written home from Arabia during the latter part of the
desert war by Colonel R. V. Buxton, who was in command of the Camel
Corps sent over from Palestine to coöperate with the Shereefian
force, this army officer said of Lawrence: “He is the most wonderful
of fellows and is our guide, philosopher, and friend. Although he
is only a boy to look at and has a very quiet manner, he is known
to every Arab in this country for his exploits. He lives entirely
with them, wears their clothes, and eats only their food. He always
travels in spotless white and in fact reminds one of the Prophet.
He has practically started all this movement here and is a wonderful
enthusiast.”



  Photograph: THE ROCK SEEMED TO SWIRL LIKE WATERED SILK



  Photograph: THE “THREE-STORIED TEMPLE”



  CHAPTER XXVIII


  FEISAL AND LAWRENCE AT TILE BATTLE OF PARIS


After the fall of Damascus and the complete overthrow of the
Turkish armies, and after he had helped establish a provisional
government for his friend Emir Feisal, young Lawrence laid aside
the curved gold sword of a prince of Mecca, packed his pure white
robes and his richly brocaded ones, in which he had been received
with all the honor due an Arab shereef, and hurried to London. His
penetrating eyes had pierced to the end of an epoch-making
perspective, involving empires and dynasties and a new balance of
power in the Near East. He had achieved the seemingly impossible;
had united desert tribes that had sworn eternal enmity to one
another; had won them over to the Allied cause and helped Allenby
put an end to German and Turkish ambitions for Near Eastern mastery.

But Lawrence realized that his work was not yet finished. He was
determined that the great powers should not forget the promises
made to their Arab allies. The battle of the peace conference was
still to be fought. So Lawrence returned to Europe to prepare for
the arrival of the Arab delegates.

An amusing incident occurred when Lawrence passed through
Marseilles, where he landed in order to travel overland to London.
He stepped into the British railway transport officer’s headquarters
at the station to inquire the time of the next through train to Le
Havre. It was a drizzly day, and Lawrence was wearing a dingy
trench-coat, without insignia, over his uniform. Although Lawrence
was a full colonel at this time, he still looked like an
insignificant shave-tail lieutenant. The R.T.O. happened to be a
lieutenant-colonel, a huge fellow, with a fierce mustache. When
his visitor asked quietly about trains, the R.T.O. glanced up, gave
Lawrence a withering look, and blusteringly told him that he
couldn’t be bothered and that Lawrence should see his assistant.
Without a word Lawrence walked out, but in the next room he took
off his water-proof, and strolled right back into the R.T.O.’s
august presence again, this time saying even more quietly than
before, “What time did you say the next _rapid_ leaves for Le
Havre?” For the moment the R.T.O. looked as though he would like
to wring Lawrence’s neck, but, catching a glimpse of the crown and
two stars on his caller’s shoulder, he jumped to his feet, saluted,
and stammered:

“I beg your pardon, sir. I beg your pardon.”

Nothing delights Lawrence more than to take a self-important man
down a peg or two. There is no fuss and flurry or pomposity in his
own make-up, and it amuses him when he occasionally encounters a
blusterer who tries to play up stage.

Emir Feisal and staff were transported across the Mediterranean on
board H.M.S. _Gloucester_ as the guests of his Imperial Britannic
Majesty. The French were considerably perturbed when they heard
that an Arabian delegation was on its way to the peace conference,
and they objected to its being recognized. France coveted Syria
and realized that Feisal and his persistent young British grand
vizir would attempt to thwart them. But Feisal started for Paris
despite the coolness of the French.

Like all orthodox Mohammedans, the emir never touches intoxicants,
and complications were narrowly averted on board the _Gloucester_
because of the fact that several of the members of Feisal’s staff,
unlike their prince, were not ardent prohibitionists. Although they
could not regale themselves publicly for fear of incurring the
emir’s displeasure, they would spend half an hour or so in the
ward-room with the ship’s officers before dinner; and General Nuri
Bey, who had been Feisal’s foremost strategist during the desert
war, even ventured to take his glass to the table, and, although
he sat opposite the emir, he cleverly concealed it behind the
water-bottle so that Feisal could not see it.

On the voyage from Alexandria to Marseilles the Arab delegation
was accompanied by Lawrence’s tent-mate, Major Marshall, who
wondered just how the French were going to receive his charges upon
arrival in port. When the _Gloucester_ steamed into Marseilles
there was an official French mission on the dock, but no British
representatives; and the French indicated by their attitude to
Marshall that further British interest in Feisal would not be
welcomed and that all matters concerning Syria were purely the
affairs of France. So Marshall sent a wire of inquiry to the
British Embassy in Paris, and a few hours later Lawrence turned
up. With his usual tact he avoided friction with the French by
borrowing Marshall’s Arabian head-dress and attaching himself to
Feisal’s delegation as a member of the emir’s personal staff and
not as a British officer.

When the delegates assembled in Paris, Emir Feisal took up his
headquarters at the Hôtel Continental on the rue de Rivoli. Wherever
the Emir went, whether to an informal meeting or to an official
conference, he was usually accompanied by the slightly built,
insignificant-looking youth in the uniform of a British colonel.
Few people at the peace conference, however, were aware that this
young man had virtually led the Arabian armies during the war and
was almost as important a figure in the Arab delegation as Emir
Feisal himself.

Prince Feisal was quite the most imposing figure at Paris. In his
flowing robes he was the center of attention wherever he went and
continually sought by artists, photographers, and writers. But
publicity was almost as distasteful to Feisal as it was to Lawrence,
and so they would get up at six o’clock in the morning, throughout
the conference, in order to go rowing in the Bois de Boulogne and
escape the curious crowd, which, attracted by the picturesque dress
and stately figure of the Arabian emir, followed always at his
heels.



  Photograph: EMIR FEISAL, CENTER, WITH GENERAL NURI TO THE LEFT
    AND COLONEL LAWRENCE TO THE RIGHT, CAPTAIN PISANI OF THE FRENCH
    MISSION STANDING DIRECTLY BEHIND THE EMIR



  Photograph: FIELD-MARSHAL VISCOUNT ALLENBY OF JERUSALEM
    AND KING FEISAL OF BAGDAD



Flattery he was quick to detect. A distinguished Frenchman, M.
Dubost, eulogized him somewhat fulsomely in the course of an
after-dinner speech at the Hôtel de Ville. When it was over a
Moroccan interpreter asked the emir how he liked it. Feisal’s only
reply was, “Hasn’t he beautiful teeth?”

To induce the Arabs to fight in the World War, Britain had made
certain promises which French interests made it extremely difficult
to fulfil. But during the peace conference Feisal’s tact and
personal charm did much to win friends for the Arabian cause in
Paris. No one ever came away from him in an angry mood. On one
occasion, at a meeting of the Council of Ten, M. Pichon referred
to the claims of France in Syria, which he said were based on the
Crusades. Emir Feisal listened respectfully, and when the French
statesman had finished his address he turned toward him and inquired
politely, “I am not a profound student of history, but would you
kindly tell me just which one of us _won_ the crusades?”

Lawrence’s personal attitude regarding the peace conference was
straightforward and simple: if Great Britain was not going to
guarantee independence to the Arabs and if she proposed to leave
them in the hands of the French so far as their Syrian aspirations
were concerned, for his part he intended to devote his energies
and talents to helping his Arab comrades in arms contest France’s
claims and obtain the rights for which they had so valiantly
fought.

During the war the British had sponsored the Arabian movement for
independence and made it possible for King Hussein and his sons to
maintain their army against the Turks. The French, on the other
hand, had merely sent a small detachment to Arabia, which could
hardly even have survived had it not been for the supplies it
received from Lawrence and his British colleagues. But the
embarrassing fly in the ointment was the “you-take-this,
and-I’ll-take-that” compact between the British and French in which
it had previously been decided that France was to have Syria as
her sphere of influence. Emir Feisal and Colonel Lawrence felt sure
if that compact was adhered to in the face of Arab claims that
Syria would become a French colony despite the fact that the bulk
of her population wanted neither French control nor French
coöperation.

In presenting the Arabian case and in coaching Emir Feisal to meet
the delegates on their own ground, Lawrence was a match for any
diplomat at the peace conference. He had the geography of Arabia,
Syria, and Palestine at his finger-tips. He spoke many of the
dialects of the Near East. He had lived with the Ansariya, the
Yezedis, the Ismailia, the Metawileh, the Christian Maronites of
the Lebanon. He had broken bread with the Druses and sat around
the coffee-hearths of nearly every tribe of the desert. He could
hold forth for hours on the intricate political relations,
religions, and tribal feuds of the Arabs and their neighbors. The
cities of Syria were as familiar to him as London and Oxford.
Sitting in a hotel room overlooking the garden of the Tuileries in
Paris, he made the ancient cities of the East live in vivid phrases
for frock-coated gentlemen who had never deviated from the straight
streets of continental capitals.

Lawrence admitted that Beyrouth, the foreign door of Syria, was
French in feeling and in language, in spite of its Greek harbor
and its great American university. But he insisted that Damascus,
the historic city of Syria, long the seat of lay government and
the religious center, was pure Arab, whose sheiks were orthodox
“Meccan” in their opinions and exceedingly anxious to be free from
alien rule. He also argued that the great industrial cities of
Hamah and Homs were more jealously native than any other Syrian
centers.

He maintained that the Arabian case rested on four important
documents, which he described as follows:

“First: The British promise to King Hussein of October, 1915, which
undertook, conditional on an Arabian revolt, to recognize the
‘independence of the Aarbs’ south of latitude 37 degrees, except
in the Mesopotamian provinces of Bagdad and Basra, and except where
Great Britain might not consider herself ‘free to act without
detriment to the interests of France.’

“Second: The Sykes-Picot Agreement made between England and France
in May, 1916, which divided the Arabian provinces of Turkey into
five zones; roughly, (a) Palestine from the Jordan to the
Mediterranean, to be ‘international’; (b) Haifa and Mesopotamia
from near Tekrit to the Gulf, to be ‘British’; (c) the Syrian coast
from Tyre to Alexandretta, Cilicia, and almost all southern Armenia
from Sivas to Diarbekir, to be ‘French’; (d) the interior (mainly
the provinces of Aleppo, Damascus, Urfa, Deir, and Mosul) to be
‘independent Arab’ under two shades of influence: (1) between the
lines Akaba-Kuweit and Haifa-Tekrit, the French to seek no
‘political influence’ and the British to have economic and political
priority, and the right to supply ‘such advisors as the Arabs
desire’; (2) between the line Haifa-Tekrit and the southern edge
of French Armenia or Kurdistan, Great Britain to seek ‘no political
influence’ and the French to have economic and political priority
and the right to supply ‘such advisors as the Arabs desire.’

“Third: The British statement to the seven Syrians of Cairo dated
June 11, 1917. This assured the Syrians that pre-war Arabian
states, and Arabian areas freed by military action of their
inhabitants during the war, should remain entirely independent.

“Fourth: The Anglo-French Declaration of November 9, 1918, in which
Great Britain and France agreed to encourage native governments in
Syria and Mesopotamia, and without imposition to assure the normal
working of such governments as the people themselves should adopt.



  Photograph: MALUD BEY AND HIS ARAB CAVALRY



  Photograph: “THE TOMB OF THE ROMAN SOLDIERS”



“All these documents were produced under stress of military urgency
to induce the Arabs to fight on our side.

“I can find no inconsistencies or incompatibilities in these four
documents,” said Lawrence, “and I know nobody else who can. It may
then be asked what is the cause of the difficulties among the
British, French, and Arabs. It is mainly because the agreement of
1916, second document, is unworkable and no longer satisfies the
British and French Governments. As, however, it is, in a sense,
the ‘charter’ of the Arabs, giving them Damascus, Homs, Hamah,
Aleppo, and Mosul for their own, with such advisors as they
themselves judge they need, the necessary revision of this agreement
is a delicate matter and can hardly be made satisfactorily by
England and France without giving weight and expression also to
the opinion of the third interest—the Arabs—which it created.”

The problem was, indeed, a delicate and intricate one to handle.
Great Britain had entered into certain agreements with France and
had made definite promises to the Arabs and other promises to the
Zionists. Emir Feisal was frankly opposed to France. He claimed
that the new Arabian Kingdom should include all of Syria,
Mesopotamia, and Palestine. France, by all the etiquette of old
diplomacy, considered that she had special and incontestable rights
in Syria, dating from the Crusaders. The French had founded
educational institutions throughout the country, financed railways,
and engaged in other forms of peaceful penetration. They considered
themselves the historical protectors of the Christians in Syria.
The Zionists were looking forward to a cultural state in Palestine
under the protection of the British. All these varied and in some
cases conflicting interests had to be considered and, if possible,
satisfied.

Emir Feisal, backed up by Lawrence’s advice, insisted that the new
Arabian state should include, not only the Hedjaz, but all
Mesopotamia, Syria, and Palestine as well. Feisal would not listen
to any proposal that Palestine should ever become a Jewish state.
From his point of view, and in this he represented the opinion of
the whole Arab world, Palestine could not be looked upon as a
separate country, but as a province which should remain part and
parcel of Syria. He maintained that, as there was no natural
boundary and no frontier between the two countries, what affected
one must affect the other, and that both from a geographical and
racial standpoint Palestine, Syria, and Mesopotamia were inseparable.
At the same time he raised no objection to the Zionist proposal to
encourage the immigration of the Jews into the country, and to
allow the Jews to have full control of their own schools, establish
a Jewish cultural center, and participate in the government of
Palestine.

“The Jews, like ourselves, are Semites,” agreed Emir Feisal. “And
instead of relying upon any of the great powers, we should like to
have the coöperation of the Jewish people for assistance in building
up a great Semitic state. I appreciate fully Zionist aspirations,
even extreme Zionist aspirations. I understand the desire of Jews
to acquire a home-land. But so far as Palestine is concerned, if
they have made up their minds that it is to be Palestine or nothing,
then it must be Palestine subject to the rights and aspirations of
the present possessors of the land. Palestine is still in effect
the land of the Arabs and must remain an integral part of the
Arabian state.”

Feisal, quite naturally, took an immediate and intimate view of
the territorial rights and political aspirations of the Arabs. He
was personally concerned in the establishment of an Arabian state
and in all the problems that might threaten its success. But
Lawrence, with his sixth sense and his imaginative understanding
of the rise and fall of empires, appraised events in terms of
rounded periods rather than of years. The Arabian question, the
Palestine question, the Syrian question, must all sift and change
with the sands of time.

In spite of all the diplomatic circumlocution, red tape, and
super-politeness that veneered the proceedings in Paris, Emir
Feisal was under no delusion as to the true spirit that permeated
the peace conference, and before he and Lawrence would start out
to attend one of the meetings Feisal would playfully unsheathe his
gold dagger and whet it a few times on his boot.

The emir is a keen wit and many stories are told of his clever
retorts in Paris. After he had been at the conference for a few
weeks some one asked him to give his opinion of modern statesmen
as a result of what he had thus far seen of them. He replied: “They
are like modern paintings. They should be hung in a gallery and
viewed from a distance!”

The final outcome of the battle of the peace conference was a
partial victory for Emir Feisal and Colonel Lawrence. They did not
get all that they had asked for, nor did they expect to. France
was given control of Beyrouth and the Syrian coast; Britain accepted
a mandate over Palestine; but the Arabs were allowed to retain
control of the interior of Syria and to make their beloved Damascus
the capital of their new state.



  Illustration: THE AUTHOR SKETCHED BY JAMES McBEY,
  OFFICIAL ARTIST FOR ALLENBY’S FORCES IN THE HOLY LAND



  Photograph: AN ARAB APOLLO



  CHAPTER XXIX


  LAWRENCE NARROWLY ESCAPES DEATH; ADVENTURES OF FEISAL AND HUSSEIN


During a lull in the long siege in the council-chambers at Paris,
Lawrence had one more adventure. He had left his diaries and nearly
all of his important papers relating to the campaign in a vault in
Cairo, because the Mediterranean was still infested with German
U-boats when the Turkish armistice was signed and when he returned
from the Near East. So after the preliminary work of the peace
conference had been completed, Lawrence found himself in need of
his notes and papers.

He heard that ten British machines—giant Handley-Page planes, with
Rolls-Royce engines, that had seen service in many a night raid
over Germany—were leaving for Egypt to blaze a new air-route from
London to Cairo. Lawrence promptly arranged to accompany them. But
the machines were old and nearly worn out, and the pilots were
daredevil chaps who literally ran their planes to pieces. In fact,
some of the pilots had never flown a Handley-Page, and some of
their mechanics had never even worked on a Rolls-Royce engine. On
the way from Cologne to Lyons five forced landings were made.
Nearly all the planes had to be rebuilt several times during the
journey to Egypt.

The Air Ministry in London had vaguely directed the squadron to an
aërodrome at Rome. When the pilots reached the Eternal City, they
flew back and forth across the Tiber, over St. Peter’s, the
Colosseum, the Forum, and up and down the Appian Way, but nowhere
on any of the Seven Hills could they spot a landing-ground. Finally
the pilot of Lawrence’s plane saw what he thought might be an
aërodrome. But when he swooped down it turned out to be a
stone-quarry. Just before reaching the quarry he saw his mistake,
switched on the engine, and tried to ascend again. Unluckily he
was unable to get up sufficient flying speed. The machine raced
along the ground, then bolted over the edge of the quarry, and
crashed down into a tree-top.

Lawrence was seated in the gun-pit. The occupants had a vague
impression of a tree coming toward them at amazing speed. Suddenly
there was a noise like the crack of a machine-gun. In the flash of
a second the great plane toppled over on its nose and right wing
and splintered into match-wood. Both pilots were killed outright.
The two mechanics, who were seated with Lawrence in the rear in
the machine-gunner’s compartment, were pitched out on their heads.
One suffered concussion of the brain; the other was merely stunned.
As soon as the second recovered consciousness he began to dig
Lawrence out of the débris. The colonel’s shoulder-blade,
collar-bone, and three ribs were broken. In the excavating process,
which took ten minutes, the mechanic kept sputtering excitedly that
the plane might catch fire any minute. Lawrence replied, “Well, if
she does, when I arrive in the other world I may find it chilly.”

In spite of the accident, however, Lawrence jumped into another
plane a few days later and continued his flight to Egypt. “Our
strangest sensation,” he afterward told me in Paris, “was
breakfasting on the isle of Crete and dining the same day in Cairo,
seven hundred miles away.” After he had gathered up his papers,
and still somewhat shaken up as a result of his aërial interlude,
he returned to the seats of the mighty in Paris.

At the conclusion of the peace conference, Emir Feisal and staff
visited London and then made a tour of the British Isles. Colonel
Lawrence took delight in showing his Arab friends around. Everything
was new to several of the sheiks who had just arrived from Arabia,
and one would have expected them to be tremendously impressed by
the subways, the automobiles, and the thousand and one wonders of
the capital of the British Empire. But these things merely excited
a supercilious, sheik-like smile. They were too proud ever to show
any signs of surprise, except on one occasion in their room at the
Ritz. They were dumfounded when they turned on the water-faucets
and found that one ran hot and the other cold. In the holy Koran,
they said, they had been told of the fountains of paradise, which
flow with milk or with honey at will; but they had never heard of
earthly fountains such as these in the Ritz. After alternating them
a bit and making quite sure that they themselves were not dreaming,
they told Lawrence they wanted to take some of those magic faucets
back to Arabia so that they could carry them in their camel-bags
to supply them with hot and cold water while trekking across the
desert!

On one occasion Emir Feisal visited Glasgow and was entertained at
a great civic banquet. He had been so busy seeing the sights along
the Clyde that when it came time to respond to the toast in his
honor he was unprepared. The only other person present who could
understand Arabic was Colonel Lawrence, who sat beside him to act
as his interpreter; and Emir Feisal leaned over and whispered in
his ear: “I haven’t a thing to say, so I am going to repeat the
passage from the Koran on the cow. When you get up to interpret
you can tell them anything you like!” It happens that the passage
on the cow is one of the most sonorous and euphonious parts of the
Koran, and the business men of Glasgow were tremendously impressed
by the marvelous flow of eloquence that rolled like Niagara from
the lips of the Oriental monarch, never dreaming that he was simply
reeling off the Prophet Mohammed’s dissertation on the cow.

Shortly before he returned to the Near East the emir was entertained
at a banquet in London, and Lord Balfour during the course of a
conversation tried to find out what Emir Feisal thought of the
British Government. He succeeded. “It reminds me of a caravan in
the desert,” replied the George Washington of Arabia. “If you see
a caravan from afar off, when you are approaching it from the rear,
it looks like one camel. But, riding on, you see that camel tied
to the tail of the next, and that one to the tail of the next, and
so on until you come to the head of the caravan, where you find a
little donkey leading the whole string of camels.” Lord Balfour
wondered to just whom the emir was referring!

When Feisal returned to Syria the people again welcomed him as
their liberator, and after a few weeks they proclaimed him King of
Syria, with Damascus as his capital. But this new state was
short-lived, for without foreign coöperation to help him finance
his government his position soon became impossible. After using up
his own private fortune in a vain attempt to develop order out of
chaos, he was obliged to leave Damascus, and the French at once
arbitrarily occupied the whole of Syria. For the moment it seemed
as though Feisal’s hopes were shattered. But Lawrence and the other
British leaders who had been associated with the Arabian Revolution
still had another card to play.

All through these turbulent days Emir Feisal’s father had continued
to strengthen his position in the Hedjaz. Galloping out of Mecca
in the gorgeous Arabian twilight, a slight, lean figure was often
seen by the Bedouins of the desert; it was Hussein, their King, on
a night journey to Jeddah, forty miles away. No music precedes him,
nor stately pageantry; he rides alone and a-muleback.

Although at the moment this is written he holds in the world to-day
a position second only to that of the pope in Rome, he lives so
simply that he prefers a mule to any other conveyence. But for
mules he is a connoisseur and a fan. South America, Australia, and
Abyssinia are combed for his favorite steeds; but the best of all,
according to King Hussein, is the good Missouri “hard-tail.”

Simple, even severe in his tastes, Hussein is a rigid upholder of
the Volstead clauses in Al Qu’ran. After a gloriously successful
train-wrecking expedition, two of Lawrence’s Arab officers went up
to Mecca on a week’s leave, taking along in their grips something
stronger than rose-water, with which to celebrate. This breach of
piety reached the ears of the king, who had the officers beaten in
public. After that no one chose Mecca as the Arabian Montreal.

The Arabs are inordinately fond of talking-machines, but King
Hussein has prohibited them in Mecca, believing them to be the
invention not of Edison but of the devil. Although he himself
prefers the life of a nomad and his real sympathies are with the
Bedouins, he is even more severe with the tribesmen of the black
tents than with the Arab townsfolk.

One day he was resting in the cool shelter of date-palms in an
oasis with a circle of Bedouins squatting around him on their
prayer-rugs. Out of the corner of his eye, he observed one of these
Arabs slip the kuffieh belonging to his neighbor under the folds
of his robes. A moment later, the owner returned and missed his
handsome head-dress. Every one denied seeing it, including the
culprit. Hussein stood up, terrible in his wrath, and strode over
to the guilty man.

“Varlet, where is thy brother’s kuffieh?” he demanded.

“Master of mercies, I know nothing of it,” stammered the terrified
man.

“Thou liest!” growled Hussein, and, picking up the gnarled club
that formed part of his regal trappings, he dealt the man a terrific
blow in the ribs. The thief collapsed in a heap and died next day.

Hussein, as the Grand Shereef of Mecca, was the sixty-eighth of
his dynasty. As king he was the first of a new line. Now, as
ruler-elect of the Mohammedan world, he revives the supremacy of
his ancient clan, the Qu’reish, from whom the Prophet himself was
descended. He is a man of keen intelligence, and those who know
him best say that he has a natural gift for diplomacy. Certainly
he will need every ounce of it if he is to keep his present
difficult position as caliph over the divided and distracted Moslem
world of to-day. Many do not acknowledge him. Even in his own
Arabia, the powerful schism of the Wahabis pays him but scant
attention. In fact the present sultan of the Central Desert and
head of the puritanical Wahabis, is King Hussein’s great rival and
one of the strongest men in Arabia to-day. Early in the war,
according to Mr. H. St. John Philby, “Sir Percy Cox, who accompanied
the Mesopotamian Expeditionary Force as Chief Political Officer,
immediately sent Captain Shakespear to spur Ibn Sa’ud into active
operations against the Turks and their natural ally, Ibn Rashid.
The campaign was launched in January, 1915, and I have always
thought that, had it not been for the unfortunate accident of
Shakespear’s death in the very first battle between the rival
forces, Colonel Lawrence might never have had the opportunity of
initiating and carrying through the brilliant campaigns with which
his name is associated, and as the result of which he entered
Damascus in triumph at the head of the army of the Hedjaz.”

Mr. Philby followed Captain Shakespear into the Central Desert
ruled over by Ibn Sa’ud, and he had a tremendous admiration for
that potentate. But by the time Mr. Philby was sent to Ibn Sa’ud’s
country the Hedjaz revolt was at its height and Colonel Lawrence
was well on his way toward Damascus. Mr. Philby made an extraordinary
journey through the unknown heart of Arabia and turned up rather
unexpectedly at the summer capital of King Hussein in the mountains
near Mecca. The aged monarch in greeting the explorer called him
the Lawrence of Nejd.

In the Wahabi sect sons can kill fathers or fathers can kill sons
who do not join. A man can also be killed for smoking a cigarrette.
These Mohammedan Puritans want to abolish the pilgrimage to Mecca
and blot out all shrines, such as the sacred Kaaba and the Tomb of
the Prophet in Medina. Ibn Sa’ud was the head of a powerful force
of fighting men, and after the World War he had captured the city
of Hail, his old enemy Ibn Rashid’s capital, and made himself the
ruler of the whole of Central Arabia.

King Hussein also has a number of other rivals. The Emir of Morocco
claims the pontificate by virtue of descent through another branch
of the illustrious Qu’reish. The Turks have proclaimed a republic,
and Ghazi Mustafa Kemal Pasha undoubtedly hopes to seize the
scepter of the Ottomans and become in fact if not in name the
supreme ruler in Islam. India is puzzled, and the doctors of Al
Azhar have up to date made no pronouncement on Hussein’s status.

Much, no doubt, is going on behind the scenes. We of the West are
prone to underestimate the importance of Mohammedanism; one day
there may be a rude awakening, for it is the creed of one fifth of
the world and is an active and proselytizing creed making converts
in London as well as equatorial Africa.

Like the waves of unrest and religious fervor and splendid hope
that passed through Christendom at the time of the Crusades, so
now, from Sudan to Sumatra, there are ominous signs of another and
darker movement. Men are muttering: “Verily those who disbelieve
our signs, we will surely cast to be broiled in hell-fire; so often
as their skins shall be well burned we will give them other skins
in exchange, that they may taste the sharper torment, for God is
mighty and wise. But those who believe and do right, we will bring
them into gardens watered by rivers.”

The times are difficult for a ruler of Islam, but no one has a
better claim than Hussein to the great inheritance to which he has
been called by popular acclamation at Bagdad.

From time immemorial the desert has been a confused and changing
mass of blood-feuds and tribal jealousies. To-day there are no
blood-feuds among the Arabs from Damascus to Mecca; for the first
time in the history of Arabia since the seventh century there is
peace along all the pilgrim road, thanks to King Hussein and his
sons.

Although he is only five feet two inches in height, his regal
bearing does not belie his ancient lineage and his high ambition.
At sixty he is still a man of exceptional vigor, although that is
not common in men of his age in the Southern Arabian Desert.

His hands, delicate and beautiful as a musician’s, impress one with
a sense of power and finesse; whether or no they will be able to
control the two hundred and fifty millions of the great brotherhood
of Islam is one of the fascinating problems of the future.

But the real hope for the future of Arabia is centered in his son,
King Feisal, who realizes that the Arabs need European and American
assistance in educational and industrial fields, and Feisal is
eager to inaugurate many changes that may revolutionize Arabia.

On the other hand, King Hussein is desirous that both Mecca and
Medina should remain isolated from the world, during his lifetime,
at least. “I am an old man,” says he, “and happy with things as
they are, but I realize that changes must come.” It is possible
that after the king has ruled Mecca for a few more years he may
retire and allow Feisal, Abdullah, and Ali to attempt to work out
their great plan for a United States of Arabia. In this event even
Mecca may be opened up to the Christian and unbeliever, for Feisal
and his brothers are thoroughly modern and do not sympathize with
the fanaticism of old Arabia. They have already prevailed upon
their father to introduce electric lights in Mecca.

Feisal, like his father, is a man of great personal courage. Were
he not, he would never have united his ignorant and fanatical
followers in a common brotherhood as he did. In the early days of
the revolt, he was by turns rifleman, company commander, and army
commander. The Bedouins were the only men he had, and they were
meeting artillery-fire for the first time in their lives and didn’t
like it a bit. Feisal had to lead them in camel charges, bring up
the rear in retreat, and defend narrow places in the mountains with
his own rifle. At the time they had few rifles and no stores, and
Lawrence has revealed the fact that he kept up the spirit of his
men with the thought of material rewards to follow by filling his
treasure-chest with stones and ostentatiously loading it on a
camel.

Lawrence believes that Feisal has a combination of qualities
admirably fitting him for the leadership of the new Arab state
which may rise out of the ashes of the old Ottoman Empire. Lawrence
is of the opinion that Feisal will go down in history, next to
Mohammed and Saladin, as the greatest Arab who ever lived. He was
and still is the soul of the Arab movement. He lives only for his
ideals and for his country. His only thought is for the future of
Arabia. That he and his father were liberal-minded enough to take
advantage of the genius and unique ability of a European unbeliever,
a mere youth many years their junior, seems incredible to any one
who knows the Mohammedans of the Near East, because, to the average
Moslem Arab, all Christians are dogs; but King Hussein and his
enlightened son even went so far as to accept their fair-haired
British advisor as a fellow-Arabian prince and an honorary shereef
of Mecca, a title which had always been reserved in the past for
direct descendants of the Prophet, and which had never before been
awarded to any other person, either Moslem or Christian.



  CHAPTER XXX


  LAWRENCE FLEES FROM LONDON, AND FEISAL BECOMES KING IN BAGDAD


After the peace conference, and after Emir Feisal had returned to
Damascus, Lawrence vanished. Many of his friends thought that he
had returned to Arabia to resume the rôle of mystery man. But I
doubted this, for when I had last talked to him in Paris I had
asked him point-blank if he intended to go back to the East in
order to help the Arabs build up their new state. His answer was
most emphatically in the negative.

“I am not going to return for some years—perhaps never,” he said.
“It would not be for the good of the Arabs for me to be there. As
a matter of fact, I haven’t the remotest idea of what I will do.
The war has so completely upset my life that it may take me several
years to find myself. In the meantime I hope to discover a secluded
corner somewhere in England, far from war, politics, and diplomacy,
where I can read a bit of Greek without being interrupted.”

His attitude regarding return to the Near East seemed to me another
indication of his far-sightedness. During their war of liberation,
the Arabs had followed Lawrence partly because of his own
personality but mainly because he offered them a substitute for
Turkish oppression. He well knew that as soon as the excitement of
war disappeared his power over them would diminish. What would have
happened if he had returned to the Near East? What would have been
the outcome if he had temporarily gained a position of political
authority equivalent to the military position he had attained in
Arabia? It is conceivable that, because of his tremendous influence
over the Arabs during the war, he might at the outset have had a
large following. But in a few months some one would have raised
the cry, “Away with the infidel!” If he had returned to Damascus
simply in the capacity of advisor to Feisal, that alone might have
undermined the emir’s hold over his people. The Arabs are jealous,
fickle, and suspicious, and they would have accused Feisal of being
a mere puppet. If Lawrence had craved power he might conceivably
have made himself an Arabian dictator by turning Moslem. But
nothing could have been more remote from his mind. He had not led
the Arabs to gratify personal ambition. His sole motive was to
defeat the Germans and Turks, and at the same time to help his
friends the Arabs win their freedom.

While the peace conference was still in session, many people said
to me that young Lawrence was the person best equipped to represent
Great Britain in the Near East and that he no doubt would return
to Syria and Arabia in an official capacity. But Lawrence’s one
ambition was to take off his uniform, drop out of political and
military life, and return to his archæological studies.

I asked Nuri Pasha, one of the generals on Emir Feisal’s staff in
Paris, how the Arabs intended to repay Colonel Lawrence for his
great service to their country. He replied: “We have offered him
everything we have, but he refuses to accept anything. But if he
will consent, we wish to give him the exclusive archæological
rights to all the buried cities of Arabia and Syria.”

Lawrence had other plans, however.

For months after the Peace Conference not even his most intimate
friends knew what had become of him. Meanwhile I had returned to
America and started a tour of the continent presenting the pictorial
records of the Allied campaigns which Mr. Chase and I had prepared.
But we were unexpectedly invited to appear for a season at Covent
Garden Royal Opera-House, London, a thing we had never dreamed
might occur, because our material had been obtained solely for
America. Naturally one of the first things I endeavored to do upon
arrival in England was to find Colonel Lawrence. I wanted to show
him what Auda Abu Tayi and the rest of his Arabian knights looked
like on the screen. Both at the War Office and the Foreign Office
no one seemed to know what had become of him. He had apparently
vanished into the blue just as he used to do in the desert. But a
fortnight later I received a note from him. All it said was:

  My dear Lowell Thomas:
    I saw your show last night. And thank God the lights were out!

         T. E. Lawrence.

I discovered that this man, whom all London would have been
delighted to honor, was living incognito in a modest furnished room
in a side street over the Dover tube-station. Not even his landlady
had any suspicion of his identity. But he could not long keep it
a secret.

A few days later he came around and had tea with us. When he
discovered that I was married and that my wife was with me, he
seemed very much embarrassed and blushed all over. He implored me
to return to America and to stop telling the public about his
exploits. He said that if I stayed in London any longer life would
not be worth living for him, because as a result of my production
at Covent Garden he was being hounded night and day by
autograph-fiends, reporters, magazine-editors, book-publishers,
and representatives of the gentler sex whom he feared more than a
Turkish army corps. He said that as a result of the two weeks I
had been speaking in London he had received some twenty-eight
proposals of marriage, and they were arriving on every mail, most
of them via Oxford.

When he came to call I noticed that he had two books under his arm.
One was a volume of Persian poems, and the other, judging by its
title, was about the last book in the world that you would have
expected this young man to be reading—this man who had been called
the Uncrowned King of the Arabs, who had achieved what no sultan
and no calif had been able to do in more than five hundred years,
who had refused some of the highest honors at the disposition of
the greatest governments of the world, who had been made an honorary
descendant of the Prophet, and who will live in history as one of
the most romantic and picturesque figures of all time. It was “The
Diary of a Disappointed Man.”

But when Lawrence found out that there was little immediate prospect
of my sailing for America, and when he discovered that he was being
followed by an Italian countess who wore a wrist-watch on her
ankle, he fled from London.

It was not long after this that Emir Feisal lost his throne in
Syria, and there was a good deal of propaganda work being done by
the French in order to encourage the British not to sponsor the
Arab cause. So, despite the fact that he had gone into retirement
and was trying to keep out of political affairs, Lawrence could
not refrain from defending Feisal. Without appearing personally he
began writing articles to the London papers, presenting the Arab
side of the controversy. I will quote from one or two of them
because they give one an idea of the versatility of this youth,
who could wield a pen as ably as he could lead an army.

  There is a feeling in England [wrote Lawrence] that the
  French occupation of Damascus and their expulsion of
  Feisal from the throne to which the grateful Syrians had
  elected him is, after all, a poor return for Feisal’s gifts to
  us during the war: and the idea of falling short of an
  oriental friend in generosity leaves an unpleasantness in our
  mouths. Feisal’s courage and statesmanship made the
  Mecca revolt spread beyond the Holy cities, until it became
  a very active help to the allies in Palestine. The Arab
  army, created in the field, grew from a mob of Bedouins into
  an organised and well equipped body of troops. They
  captured thirty-five thousand Turks, disabled as many more,
  took a hundred and fifty guns, and a hundred thousand
  square miles of Ottoman territory. This was great service
  in our extreme need, and we felt we owed the Arabs a reward:
  and to Feisal, their leader, we owed double, for the
  loyal way in which he had arranged the main Arab activity
  when and where Allenby directed.

  Yet we have really no competence in this matter to
  criticise the French. They have only followed in very
  humble fashion, in their sphere of Syria, the example we
  set them in Mesopotamia. England controls nine parts
  out of ten of the Arab world, and inevitably calls the tune to
  which the French must dance. If we follow an Arab policy,
  they must be Arab. If we fight the Arabs, they must fight
  the Arabs. It would show a lack of humour if we reproved
  them for a battle near Damascus, and the blotting out of
  the Syrian essay in self-government, while we were fighting
  battles near Bagdad, and trying to render the Mesopotamians
  incapable of self-government, by smashing every
  head that raised itself among them.

  Britain was having a turbulent time in Mesopotamia
  just when the French had ousted Feisal from
  Syria. Lawrence felt that there ought to be a way
  of putting Feisal’s talents to some use in Bagdad, and
  this article was his diplomatic way of introducing the
  plan which afterward was developed and adopted.

  A few weeks ago [continued Lawrence] the chief of our
  administration in Bagdad was asked to receive some Arab
  notables who wanted to urge their case for partial autonomy.
  He packed the delegation with some nominees of his own,
  and in replying, told them that it would be long before they
  were fit for responsibility. Brave words—but the burden
  of them has been heavy on the Manchester men this week
  at Hillah.

  These risings take a regular course. There is a preliminary
  Arab success; then British reinforcements go out
  as a punitive force. They fight their way (our losses are
  slight, the Arab losses heavy) to their objective, which is
  meanwhile bombarded by artillery aëroplanes, or gunboats.
  Finally, perhaps, a village is burnt and the district pacified.
  It is odd that we do not use poison gas on these occasions.
  Bombing the houses is a patchy way of getting the women
  and children, and our infantry always incur losses in shooting
  down the Arab men. By gas attacks the whole population
  of offending districts could be wiped out neatly; and
  as a method of government it would be no more immoral
  than the present system.

  We realise the burden the army in Mesopotamia is to the
  Imperial Exchequer, but we do not see as clearly the burden
  it is to Mesopotamia. It has to be fed, and all its animals
  have to be fed. The fighting forces are now eighty-three
  thousand strong, but the ration strength is three hundred
  thousand. There are three labourers to every soldier, to
  supply and serve him. One in ten of the souls in Mesopotamia
  to-day belongs to our army. The greenness of the
  country is being eaten up by them, and the process is not
  yet at its height. To be sure they demand that we double
  our existing garrison. As local resources are exhausted
  this increase of troops will increase the cost by more than
  arithmetical progression.

  These troops are just for police work to hold down the
  subjects of whom the House of Lords was told two weeks
  ago that they were longing for our continued presence in
  their country. No one can imagine what will be our state
  there if one of Mesopotamia’s three envious neighbours (all
  nursing plans against us) attacks us from outside, while
  there is still disloyalty within. Our communications are very
  bad, our defence positions all have both flanks in the air,
  and there seem to have been two incidents lately. We do
  not trust our troops as we did during the war.

  Then there are the military works. Great barracks and
  camps have had to be constructed, and hundreds of miles
  of military roads. Great bridges, to carry motor-lorries,
  exist in remote places, where the only local transport is by
  pack. The bridges are made of temporary materials, and
  their upkeep is enormous. They are useless to the civil
  Government, which yet has to take them over at a high
  valuation; and so the new State will begin its career with
  an enforced debt.



  Photograph: A PEASANT WOMAN OF SYRIA



  Photograph: TYPES OF CITY HEAD-DRESS FOR WOMEN



  Photograph: WHERE THE HOSTS OF ISRAEL ARE SAID TO HAVE
    TERMINATED THE PASSAGE OF THE RED SEA



  English statesmen, from the Premier downwards, weep
  tears over the burden thrust on us in Mesopotamia. “If
  only we could raise a local army,” said Lord Curzon, “but
  they will not serve” (except against us, his lordship no
  doubt added to himself). “If only we could find Arabs
  qualified to fill executive posts.”

  In this dearth of local talent the parallel of Syria is
  illuminating. Feisal had no difficulty in raising troops,
  though he had great difficulty in paying them. However,
  the conditions were not the same, for he was arbitrarily
  deprived of his Customs’ revenue. Feisal had no difficulty
  in setting up an administration, in which the five leading
  spirits were all natives of Bagdad. It was not a very good
  administration, but in the East the people are less exigent
  than we are. Even in Athens Solon gave them not the best
  laws, but the best they would accept.

  The British in Mesopotamia cannot find one competent
  person, but I maintain that the history of the last few
  months has shown their political bankruptcy, and their
  opinion should not weigh with us at all. I know ten British
  officials with tried and honourable reputations in the
  Sudan, Sinai, Arabia, Palestine, each and all of whom
  could set up an Arab Government comparable to Feisal’s,
  in Bagdad, next month. It also would not be a perfect
  government, but it would be better than Feisal’s for he,
  poor man, to pull him down, was forbidden foreign advisers.
  The Mesopotamian effort would have the British Government
  behind it, and would be child’s play for a decent man
  to run, so long as he ran it like Cromer’s Egypt, not like
  the Egypt of the Protectorate. Cromer dominated Egypt,
  not because England gave him force, or because Egypt loved
  us, or for any outside reason, but because he was so good
  a man. England has stacks of first-class men. The last
  thing you need out there is a genius. What is required is
  a tearing up of what we have done, and beginning again on
  advisory lines. It is no good patching with the present
  system. “Concessions to local feeling” and such like rubbish
  are only weakness-concessions, incentives to more
  violence. We are big enough to admit a fault, and turn a
  new page, and we ought to do it with a hoot of joy, because
  it will save us a million pounds a week.

When in Arabia I would occasionally draw Lawrence into conversation
about the statesmen and leaders of the day. He invariably had
something amusing to tell about each. It was from him that I first
learned that Mr. Lloyd George employed a barber to visit No. 10
Downing Street daily to dress his famous head of hair.

On another occasion I asked him to tell me something about Lord
Curzon, he replied: “In order to give you an idea what Lord Curzon
is like I must explain to you his outlook on life. Lord Curzon
divides all the inhabitants of this earth into two groups, the
masses and the classes. The classes are Lord Curzon and the king.
Everybody else belongs to the masses.”

So while we were still at Covent Garden Opera-House, when I heard
a story about Lawrence and his first meeting with the aloof and
pompous marquis, I recalled what the colonel had said to me about
his lordship in Arabia.

Lawrence’s name was on every one’s lips at that time, and the
anecdote is a good one whether true or not. I will recount it as
told to me:

“Lord Curzon said to one of his satraps at the Foreign Office: ‘I
say, who is this person, Lawrence? See that he is brought into our
presence.’ Eventually another member of the cabinet unearthed the
hero of Arabia and lured him to the Foreign Office. When ushered
before the Great One, the latter waved his meek-looking and
diminutive visitor into a chair and proceeded to deliver a lecture
on the Near East to this young man who was an authority on the
subject. Lawrence stood it as long as he could, and finally, unable
to restrain himself longer, he said to the noble marquis: ‘But, my
dear man, you don’t know what you are talking about!’”

Even while fighting in the desert Lawrence had foreseen the
complications that were going to arise after the war was over; and,
as noted before, in his advance on Damascus he was extremely
anxious that Emir Feisal’s men should enter the city ahead of the
British and French because he realized this would make it doubly
difficult for the Allies to disregard their friends the Arabs when
the tumult and shouting was over.

Lord Winterton, who was with the Arab forces during the fighting
around Damascus, in an article in “Blackwood’s Magazine,” pays an
eloquent tribute to Lawrence and tells us how he was always thinking
far in advance of the problem of the moment.

“I am of the opinion,” writes the Earl, “that we owed much in those
few days, before we finally effected a junction with the British,
to the good generalship displayed by General Nuri, backed by L.’s
advice and genius for thinking ahead of nine people out of ten.”
Then in another place Lord Winterton adds: “He had no intention
that the Arabs should take a back seat in the final destruction of
the Turkish army. There were political as well as military
considerations at stake, as the Arabs knew well, and L. was only
playing on a highly keyed-up instrument. L. infected us all with
his enthusiasm, and I began to feel, despite my temperamental
dislike of adventure _qua_ adventure, that it would be monstrous,
if when the Turkish fox came to be broken up, the British got the
body, head, and brush, and the Arabs, who had helped to hunt him
for three and a half years, only got a bit of the pad. If we were
in at the military death of Turkey, ‘Brer Fox,’ it would make it
the more difficult to refuse the Arabs a big share of the
results—spoils, if you will—of the victory.”



  Photograph: A BRIGAND FROM JEBEL DRUZ



  Photograph: LAWRENCE WOULD OCCASIONALLY DISGUISE HIMSELF
    AS A GIPSY WOMAN OF SYRIA



During his seven years’ wandering through the desert, dressing like
an Arab, living with Arabs in their tents, observing their customs,
talking to them in their own dialects, riding on his camel across
a broad expanse of lonely country unbroken except by the long
purple line of the horizon, lying down at night under a silent dome
of stars, Thomas Edward Lawrence drank the cup of Arabian wisdom
and absorbed the spirit of the nomad peoples. No Westerner ever
acquired greater influence over an Oriental people. He had united
the scattered tribes of Arabia and induced chieftains who had been
bitter enemies for generations to forget their feuds and fight side
by side for the same cause. From remote parts of Arabia swarthy
sons of the desert had swarmed to his standard as if he had been
a new prophet. Largely by reason of his genius, Feisal and his
followers had freed Arabia from Turkish oppression. Lawrence had
contributed new life and soul to the movement for Arabian
independence. The far-reaching results of his spectacular and
successful campaign were destined to play an important part in the
final adjustment of Near Eastern affairs, and half-way measures
made no more appeal to Colonel Lawrence in time of peace than in
time of war.

In another of his communications to the press, when he was trying
to mold public opinion in favor of the Arabs, we catch a further
glimpse of his views.

“The Arabs rebelled against the Turks,” said Lawrence in a letter
to “The Times,” “not because the Turk Government was notably bad,
but because they wanted independence. They did not risk their lives
in battle to change masters, to become British subjects or French
citizens, but to win a show of their own.

“Whether they are fit for independence or not remains to be tried.
Merit is no qualification for freedom. Bulgars, Afghans, and
Tahitians have it. Freedom is enjoyed when you are so well armed,
or so turbulent, or inhabit a country so thorny that the expense
of your neighbour’s occupying you is greater than the profit.”

But Colonel Lawrence has no illusions as to the capacity of the
Arabs for organization and administration. He fully appreciates
that these are not their strong points. But he has faith in them
and believes they have a message to give the West.

“History is against the probability of the creation of an Arabic
empire,” he once said to me in Arabia. “The Semitic mind does not
lean toward system or organization. It is practically impossible
to fuse the diverse elements among the Semites into a modern,
closely knit state. On the other hand, the Semites have been more
fertile in ideas than any other people. The Arabian movement has
presented itself to me as the latest expression of the influence
of the desert upon the settled peoples; the Semitic spirit has
again exercised its influence over the Mediterranean basin. Emir
Feisal is the last of the line of Semitic prophets. His campaign
for Arabian independence, which made some five million converts
among the Arabic-speaking peoples of the Near East, is by no means
the least of those revelations by which the the Semites have so
profoundly affected the Western world.

“The Semites are represented by very little art, architecture,
philosophy. There have been few Jewish artists or philosophers.
But we find an amazing fertility among the Semites in the creation
of creeds and religions. Three of these creeds—Judaism, Christianity
and Mohammedanism—have become great world movements. The broken
fragments of countless other religions which have failed are found
to-day on the fringes of the desert.

“The desert seems to produce only one idea, the universality of
God. We who have gone out to discover the meaning of the desert
have found only emptiness; nothing but sand, wind, soil, and empty
space. The Bedouins leave behind them every extraneous comfort and
go to live in the desert, in the very arms of starvation, that they
may be free. The desert exacts a price for its secret. It makes
the Bedouins entirely useless to their fellow-men. There has never
been a Bedouin prophet. On the other hand, there has never been a
Semitic prophet who has not, before preaching his message, gone
into the desert and caught from the desert-dwellers a reflection
of their belief. The idea of the absolute worthlessness of the
present world is a pure desert conception at the root of every
Semitic religion, which must be filtered through the screen of a
non-nomad prophet before it can be accepted by settled peoples.”

With his exuberant imagination and his vista down the centuries,
it was an easy matter for Lawrence to throw himself heart and soul
into the Arabian movement. He remembered the time when the Arab
Empire controlled most of the Mediterranean world, when its
philosophers, poets, and scientists enriched the culture of Europe.
“There are some people who have dreams at night and wake to find
them all rot. There are others who have dreams in the daytime, and
occasionally they come true,” he said to me one day in London. It
is Lawrence’s conviction that the Arabs still have something to
give the world, something that the world, particularly the
materialistic Western world, sorely needs. It has been a fortunate
thing for the Arabs that he had the genius to make his dreams come
true.

I should like to use Lawrence’s own words in defining just what
the Arabian movement means. “There is no reason to expect from the
Arabian movement,” Lawrence told me, “any new development of law
or economics. But Feisal has succeeded in restating forcibly the
vital doctrine of the Semites, Other Worldliness; and his ideals
will have a profound effect on the growing nationalist movements
in Syria, Mesopotamia, Arabia, and Palestine, which are the present
homes of Semitic political life.

“It is like watching the waves of the Atlantic coming in and
breaking themselves against the cliffs of the west coast of Ireland.
To look at them you would say the cliffs were made of iron, and
the waves quite futile. But when you study a map you see that the
whole coast is torn open by the wearing of the sea, and you realize
that it is only a matter of time before there will cease to be an
Irish question. In the same way the successive Semitic protests
against the material world may seem simply so much waste effort,
but some day the Semitic conviction of the other world may roll
unchecked over the place where this world has been.

“I rank Feisal’s movements as one more protest against the utter
uselessness of material things. I was only trying to help roll up
the wave, which came to its crest and toppled over when we took
Damascus. It was just rolling up the Arabs in a tremendous effort
and joining the whole nation together in pursuit of an ideal object
that had no practical shape or value. We were expressing our entire
contempt for the material pursuits exalted by others, from
money-making to making statues.”

Lawrence expresses the conviction that the Arabian movement is
nothing more than a protest against outside interference. This time
the protest has been directed against Turkey, but the next time it
may be launched against France, Italy, Britain, or any Western
nation that develops a tendency to be disregardful of another
people’s deep-seated racial sentiments.

“When you can understand the point of view of another race, you
are a civilized being,” once remarked Lawrence to me in the desert.
“I think that England (out of sheer conceit, and not because of
any inherent virtue in my countrymen) has been less guilty in its
contacts than other nations. We do not wish other people to be like
us, or to conform to our customs, because we regard imitation of
ourselves as blasphemous.”

Later on, in Paris, Lawrence summed up for me the whole Near
Eastern situation in a few words. He is of the opinion that France,
in receiving the mandatory for Syria, is merely obtaining control
of a temporary phase of the Arabian movement.

“The Hedjaz will be absorbed in a few years by an Arabian state to
the north of it. Damascus has always been the center of Arabian
self-determination, but Syria is a small country and too poor to
look forward to a great agricultural or industrial future. It acts
merely as a front door to Kurdistan, Armenia, and Mesopotamia. When
Western enterprise restores Assyria and Babylonia to their former
level of agricultural prosperity, and when advantage has been taken
of the mineral wealth of Armenia and the cheap fuel of Mesopotamia,
then the Arabian center will inevitably be transferred from Damascus
eastward to Mosul, Bagdad, or some new capital. Mesopotamia has
three times the irrigable area of Egypt. Egypt now has a population
of more than thirteen millions, while there are only five millions
in Mesopotamia. In the near future Mesopotamia will increase to
forty millions, and Syria, which now has a population of three
million five hundred thousand, will have perhaps five million. This
is rather a bad outlook for Syria. But no matter where the center
of Arabian gravity may shift, nothing can change the Arabian Desert
and the ideals of its people.”

Despite Lawrence’s desire to live in retirement, with only his
books for his companions, his countrymen would not listen to it.
When Winston Churchill took up the cabinet post of colonial
secretary, one of the first things he did was to force Lawrence to
come and help the Government straighten out the Near East tangle.
He appointed Lawrence adviser on Near Eastern affairs, and the
latter reluctantly agreed to remain at the Colonial Office for just
one year. During this time the Mesopotamian problem was solved
along the lines that Lawrence had originally suggested, and Emir
Feisal was called to Bagdad and made king of Iraq, the modern
successor to the great Calif Harun al Rashid of Arabian Nights
fame. Thus Feisal, despite the fact that he had lost the throne of
Syria, became the founder of a new Mesopotamian dynasty and the
ruler of a far more important state.



  CHAPTER XXXI


  THE SECRET OF LAWRENCE’S SUCCESS


Among the hundreds of questions that I have been asked about
Colonel Lawrence by press and public in every part of the world,
some of the most frequent have been: What was the secret of
Lawrence’s success, and how could a Christian and a European gain
such influence over fanatical Mohammedans? What reward has Lawrence
received? Is he going to write a book? Where is he now, how does
he earn his living, and what is going to become of him? What are
his hobbies? Will he ever marry? Is he a normal human being and
has he a sense of humor?



  Photograph: “SHEREEF” LAWRENCE



  Photograph: A CAMEL CARAVAN IN THE WADI ARABIA



Of course there have been a host of factors that have contributed
to his success, that gained him his influence, and that enabled
him to win not only the respect of the Arabs but their admiration
and their devotion as well. They respected him partly because,
although a mere youth, he seemed to have more wisdom than their
wise men. They admired him partly because of his personal prowess,
his ability to outdo them at the things in which they excel, such
as camel-riding and shooting, and also because of his courage and
modesty. He usually led them in battle, and under fire he was
courageous to a fault. Wounded a number of times, his injuries,
fortunately, were never serious enough to keep him out of action.
Often he was too far from a base to get medical attention, so that
his wounds were obliged to heal themselves. The Arabs became
devoted to him because he gained them victories and then tactfully
gave all the credit to his companions. That he was a Christian they
considered unfortunate, and they decided that it was an accident
and in some mysterious way “the will of Allah,” but some of them
regarded him as one sent from heaven by their Prophet to help free
them from the Turks.

West and East fraternize politely, if rather inharmoniously, in
the more accessible towns of Arabia and Syria, for the West has
money to spend and the East is avaricious. But away in the desert
and wild places it is otherwise. The nomads, whose ancestors have
roamed the country for four thousand years and more, resist the
inquisitive eyes and hungry notebooks of foreigners who are not
proved friends. They still regard stray Europeans with hostile
suspicion and as fair subjects for loot. But Lawrence’s minute
knowledge of their intricate customs, and his apparent complete
mastery of the Koran and complex Mohammedan law, caused them to
regard him with a tolerance and respect which are exceedingly rare
among the fanatical peoples of the Near East. And of course his
knowledge of their customs and laws was of incalculable importance
in enabling him to settle disputes between antagonistic factions.

To gain his ends it was necessary for Lawrence to be a consummate
actor. He was obliged completely to submerge his European mode of
living, even at the risk of winning the criticism and ridicule of
his own countrymen, by appearing in cities like Cairo, where East
and West meet, garbed as an Oriental. His critics scoffed and said
that he did this merely to gain notoriety. But there was a far
deeper reason. Lawrence knew that he was being watched constantly
by shereefs, sheiks, and tribesmen, and he knew that they would
regard it as a very great compliment to them if he went about, even
among his own people, dressed in the costume of the desert.

During those first days which I had spent with Lawrence in Jerusalem
he wore nothing but Bedouin garb. Nor did he ever appear to be
aware of the curiosity excited by his costume in the streets of
the Holy City, for he always gave one the impression that he was
engrossed in his own thoughts hundreds of miles or hundreds of
centuries away. And usually on the occasion when he visited
Palestine and Egypt in Arab kit, he was obliged to go direct to
Ramleh or Cairo from one of his expeditions across the desert. He
was therefore obliged to turn up at headquarters just as he happened
to be dressed for his work, without wasting the valuable days which
would have been required for him to return all the way south to
the base-camp at Akaba for a uniform, just to satisfy his critics.

When in the desert he never wore anything but Arab garb, nor could
he have succeeded in the amazing way that he did had he offended
the Arabs by wearing European costume. When off “in the blue” on
his she-dromedary, it was not feasible for Lawrence to take a
wardrobe along in his camel-bags. The speed with which he trekked
obliged him to travel light. In fact, he usually carried nothing
but a lump of unleavened bread, a bit of chocolate, his canteen,
chlorine tablets, a tooth-brush, a rifle, revolver and ammunition,
and his little volume of the satires of Aristophanes in the
original.

The rifle which he carried through the whole campaign had a colorful
history. Just one of the ordinary British Army variety, the Turks
had captured it at the Dardanelles, and Enver Pasha had adorned it
with a metal plate worked with gold and carrying the inscription,
“To Feisal, with Enver’s regards.” Enver had given it to Emir
Feisal early in 1916, before the outbreak of the Shereefian
Revolution, in order to prove to Feisal that the Turks had already
won the war. Later the Emir gave it to Lawrence, and the latter
carried it on all his raids. For every Turk he killed he cut a
notch, a big one for an officer and a little one for a soldier.
The rifle is now in the possession of King George.

Occasionally when he went to Cairo or to Jerusalem to make a report
to General Allenby, he wore the uniform of a British officer, but
even after he had attained the rank of colonel he preferred the
uniform of a second lieutenant, usually without insignia of any
kind. I have seen him in the streets of Cairo without a belt and
with unpolished boots—negligence next to high treason in the
British army! To my knowledge he was the only British officer in
the war who so completely disregarded all the little precisions
and military formalities for which Tommy Atkins and his “hofficers”
are world famous. Lawrence rarely saluted, and when he did it was
simply with a wave of the hand, as though he were saying, “Hulloa,
old man,” to a pal. He rarely saluted any one senior to him,
although he always made it a point to acknowledge salutes from men
in the ranks. As for military titles, he abhorred them, and from
general to private he was known as plain “Lawrence.” Several times
in the desert he told me how thoroughly he disliked the red tape
of the army and said that as soon as the war was over he intended
to go back to archæology.

He was no parlor conversationalist. Lawrence rarely said anything
to any one unless it was necessary to give instructions or ask
advice or answer a direct question. Even in the heat of the Arabian
campaign he sought solitude. Frequently I found him in his tent
reading an archæological quarterly when the rest of the camp was
worked up to fever-pitch over a plan of attack. He was so shy that
when General Sir Gilbert Clayton, the distinguished commander of
the Secret Corps, or some other officer sought to compliment him
on one of his exploits, he would get red as a school-girl and look
down at his feet.

Several years ago, in Calcutta, Colonel Robert Lorraine, the
eminent actor-airman, said to me, “But if Lawrence is so extremely
modest and shy, why did he pose for so many photographs for you?”
A keen question and a natural one. And out of justice to Lawrence
I think I ought to answer it, even at the expense of disclosing a
professional secret. My cameraman, Mr. Chase, uses a high-speed
camera. We saw considerable of Colonel Lawrence in Arabia, and
although he arranged for us to get both “still” and motion pictures
of Emir Feisal, Auda Abu Tayi, and the other Arab leaders, he would
turn away when he saw the lens pointing in his direction. We got
more pictures of the back of his kuffieh than of his face. But
after much strategy and after using all the artifices that I had
learned as a reporter on a Chicago newspaper, where it was worth
one’s job to fail to bring back a photograph of the fair lady
involved in the latest scandal, I finally manœuvered Lawrence into
allowing Chase to take a “sitting shot” on two different occasions.
Then while I kept Colonel Lawrence’s attention away from Mr. Chase
by keeping up a rapid fire of questions regarding our projected
trip to the “lost city” of Petra, which he believed to be the
primary object of our visit to Arabia, Mr. Chase hurriedly took a
dozen pictures from as many different angles, and in less time than
it usually requires for a fussy studio photographer to set up and
expose two plates. Any one familiar with the methods of newspaper
photographers will appreciate the simplicity of this where you are
working out of doors in good light. If you’ve got a graphlex and
don’t get stricken with buck-fever at the critical moment, you can
get photographs of St. Vitus himself. I realized that Lawrence was
one of the most romantic figures of the war. I knew that we had a
great scoop. And I had made up my mind that we would not leave
Arabia until we had the photographs we wanted. Frequently Chase
snapped pictures of the colonel without his knowledge, or just at
the instant that he turned and found himself facing the lens and
discovered our perfidy. When two experienced hunters start out for
game, one to act as decoy and the other to do the shooting, the
poor victim has about as much chance as the Bengal tiger who has
been selected as the target for visiting royalty.

But to get back to the topic of how Lawrence succeeded in obtaining
such a wonderful hold over the Arabs by dressing like them and
mastering the smallest details of their daily life, by his courage,
his modesty, his physical prowess and his mature wisdom, there can
hardly be any question that the way in which this youth gained the
confidence, not only of the more cosmopolitan descendants of the
Prophet who rule over the cities of Holy Arabia, but also of the
Bedouin tribes of the desert, will be regarded by historians of
the future as one of the most amazing personal achievements of this
age.

The phenomenal character of his accomplishment can be more
accurately appraised if we keep in mind that for thirteen hundred
years, since the days of Mohammed, fewer Europeans have explored
Holy Arabia than have penetrated mysterious Tibet or Central
Africa. The zealous Mohammedans who live around the sacred cities
of Mecca and Medina prevent Christians, Jews, and other
non-Mohammedans from profaning holy soil, and the unbeliever who
ventures into this part of Arabia is indeed lucky if he returns
alive. So Lawrence’s achievements seem all the more extraordinary
when we remember that he admitted openly that he was a Christian.
For even though he did wear the robes and accoutrements of a
shereef of Mecca, he only actually posed as an Oriental when he
slipped through the Turkish lines wearing the veil of a native
woman.

Of course the vast wealth which he had at his disposal, the
seemingly inexhaustible supply of gold sovereigns with which he
paid his army, was of vast importance. But though the Germans and
Turks also tried using gold, their weakness lay in the fact that
they “had no Lawrence,” declares H. St. John Philby, the Arabian
authority, who represented Britain in the Central Arabian Desert
ruled over by Ibn Sa’ud.

Colonel Lawrence played the part of a man of mystery endowed with
the ability to do everything superlatively well, outvying the Arabs
at everything from statecraft to camel-riding, and even to using
delicate shadings of their own language. In fact, language seems
easy for him. In addition to his mother-tongue, he speaks French,
Italian, Spanish, and German, some Dutch, Norwegian, and Hindustani,
is a master of ancient Latin and Greek, and can manipulate many of
the Arabic dialects of the Near East.

Lawrence was exceedingly careful never to enter into competition
with the Bedouins unless he was quite certain of excelling them.
He also gained a reputation as a man of deeds rather than words,
which greatly impressed the desert-dwellers, who for the most part
chatter as incessantly as the crows of India. When he did speak he
had something of importance to say and knew whereof he spoke. He
seldom made errors, and when he did he took care that the Arabs
should ultimately regard it as a success. He was an indefatigable
worker even under conditions of ever-insistent hospitality, and he
would work far into the night when his Arab colleagues were asleep.
It was late at night, or while trekking across the desert swaying
in the camel-saddle, that he would plan his far-reaching policies
of diplomacy and strategy. Small and wiry, he seemed made of steel.
But the desert war left its indelible mark on him in more ways than
one, for one of his brothers confided to me that ever since his
return from Arabia he has suffered from severe heart-strain.

Auda Abu Tayi, always sincere in his judgment of people, once said
to me: “I have never seen any one with such a capacity for work,
and he is one of the finest camel-riders that ever trekked across
the desert.” A Bedouin can pay no finer compliment. Then added
Auda, “By the beard of the Prophet, he seems more than a man!”



  CHAPTER XXXII


  THE ART OF HANDLING ARABS


Colonel Lawrence believed in the Arabs, and the Arabs believed in
him, but they would never have trusted him so implicitly had he
not been such a complete master of their customs and all the
superficial external features of Arabian life. I once asked him,
when we were trekking across the desert, what he considered the
best way of dealing with the wild nomad peoples of this part of
the world. My motive was to try to get him to tell in his own words
something about the methods that had enabled him to accomplish what
no other man could. I am confident that he thought I wanted the
information merely for my own immediate use in dealing with the
Bedouins with whom we were living. Had he suspected that I was
attempting to make him talk about himself, he would have turned
the conversation into other channels.

“The handling of Arabs might be termed an art, not a science, with
many exceptions and no obvious rules,” was his answer. “The Arab
forms his judgment on externals that we ignore, and so it is
vitally important that a stranger should watch every movement he
makes and every word he says during his first weeks of association
with a tribe. Nowhere in the world is it so difficult to atone for
a bad start as with the Bedouins. However, if you once succeed in
reaching the inner circle of a tribe and actually gain their
confidence, you can do pretty much as you please with them and at
the same time do many things yourself that would have caused them
to regard you as an outcast had you been too forward at the start.
The beginning and end of the secret of handling Arabs is an
unremitting study of them. Always keep on your guard; never speak
an unnecessary word; watch yourself and your companions constantly;
hear all that passes; search out what is going on beneath the
surface; read the characters of Arabs; discover their tastes and
weaknesses, and keep everything you find out to yourself. Bury
yourself in Arab circles; have no ideas and no interests except
the work in hand, so that you master your part thoroughly enough
to avoid any of the little slips that would counteract the painful
work of weeks. Your success will be in proportion to your mental
effort.”

To illustrate the importance the Bedouins place on externals,
Lawrence told me that on one occasion a British officer went up
country; and the first night, as the guest of a Howeitat sheik, he
sat down on the guest rug of honor with his feet stretched out in
front of him instead of tucked under him in Arab fashion. That
officer was never popular with the Howeitat. To the Bedouin it is
as offensive to display the pedal extremities ostentatiously as it
would be for us to put our feet on the table at a dinner-party. A
short distance behind us in the caravan rode a chief of the Shammar
Arabs who had a great scar across his face. Lawrence related this
story:

“While that fellow was dining with Ibn Rashid, the ruler of North
Central Arabia, he happened to choke. He felt so much humiliated
that he jerked out his knife and slit his mouth right up to the
carotid artery in his cheek, merely to show his host that a bit of
meat had actually stuck in his back teeth.”

The Arabs consider it a sign of very bad breeding for a man to
choke over his food. Not only does it show that he is greedy, but
it is believed that the devil has caught him. Other fine points of
etiquette are bound up in the fact that the Bedouins never use
forks and knives, but simply reach into the various dishes on the
table with their hands. For instance, it is extremely bad form for
any one to eat with his left hand.

The dyed-in-the-wool nomad of Arabia never makes allowances for
any ignorance of desert customs in forming his judgment of a
stranger. If you have not mastered desert etiquette, you are
regarded as an alien and perhaps hostile outsider. Lawrence’s
understanding of the Arabs and his unfailing ability to do the
right thing at the right moment was uncanny. Of course, he could
not have lived as an Arab in Arabia if he had not learned the
family history of all the prominent peoples of the desert, including
the complete list of their friends and enemies. He was expected to
know that a certain man’s father had been hanged or that his mother
was the divorced wife of some famous chieftain. It would be as
awkward to inquire about an Arab’s father if he had been a famous
fighter as it would be to introduce a divorced woman to her former
husband. If Lawrence desired any information he gained it by
indirect means and by cleverly leading the conversation around to
the subject in which he was interested; he never asked questions.
Fortunately for the Arab Nationalist movement and for the Allies,
Lawrence had got beyond the stage of making mistakes before the
war and at one time was actually a sheik of a tribe in Mesopotamia.

“It is vitally important for any one dealing with the desert
peoples to speak their local dialects, not the Arabic current in
some other part of the East,” declared Lawrence. “The safest plan
is to be rather formal at first, to avoid getting too deeply
involved in conversation.” Nearly all the officers sent to coöperate
with the Arabs in the revolt spoke the Egyptian-Arabic dialect.
The Arabs despise the Egyptians, whom they regard as poor relations
Therefore, most of the Europeans sent by the Allies to coöperate
with the Hedjaz people found themselves coldly treated. The Allies
succeeded in winning the Arabs to their cause because Lawrence was
able to crystallize the Arabian idea of winning independence from
the Turks into a definite form and because he had attained the
unusual distinction of being taken into the bosom of most of their
tribes.

It was Colonel Lawrence who was mainly responsible for the permanent
elevation of Hussein, Feisal, and Abdullah to their respective
thrones. Lawrence believed that the best way to consolidate the
desert peoples and wipe out their terrible blood-feuds would be to
create an Arabian aristocracy. Nothing of this kind had ever
existed in Arabia before, because the nomads of the Near East are
the freest people on earth and refuse to recognize any authority
higher than themselves. But all Arabs have for centuries accorded
a little extra respect to the direct descendants of the founder of
their religion. Lawrence, in his attempt to persuade the Arabs to
recognize shereefs as specially chosen people, cleverly took
advantage of the fact that the family tree of Hussein towered
higher, in fact, than a eucalyptus—right up to the Prophet himself.
But I am sure he would never have been able to accomplish this if
he had not received the unlimited financial support of the British
Government. A stream of several hundred thousand pounds in
glittering golden sovereigns was poured into Arabia each month to
enable the young archæologist to pay King Hussein’s Arabian army.
Lawrence had practically unlimited credit. He could draw any amount
he desired up to a million pounds or so. But gold alone would not
have sufficed, for the Turks and Germans had tried its lure and
failed. The Arabs hated the Turks even more than they loved gold.

Since the beginning of time the sheiks or patriarchs of one tribe
have had absolutely no influence with members of other tribes.
Shereefs, who really do not belong to any tribe, were recognized
as superior leaders only by the people of Mecca, Medina, and the
larger towns. The word “shereef” or “shrf,” as it is spelled in
Arabic (a language without vowels), signified “honor.” A shereef
is supposed to be a man who displays honor. In the holy cities of
Mecca and Medina, Shereef Hussein and Shereef Feisal had long stood
high in the esteem of the inhabitants, who were accustomed to refer
to them as “Sidi” or “Lord.” The care-free Bedouins, unlike their
city cousins, merely addressed them as “Hussein” and “Feisal”
without bothering about titles. But Lawrence, with his usual powers
of persuasion, convinced even the Bedouins that they should adopt
the term “Sidi” in referring to all shereefs. So successful was he
that within a few months, in spite of the fact that he was a
foreigner and a Christian, they honored even Lawrence with this
title because of their deep and genuine admiration for him.

Lieutenant Colonel C. E. Vickery, C.M.G., D.S.O., etc., another
able officer of the regular army who played a prominent part in
the campaign and afterward acted as British agent at Jeddah, gives
us a vivid glimpse into the formality of a shereef’s daily life.
Colonel Vickery is one of the few Europeans who have ever visited
Taif, the summer capital of the Hedjaz, a city that is not nearly
so sacred as Mecca or Medina, but nevertheless a place about which
the outside world knows nothing.

“It was quite dark when we arrived, very cold and stiff,” relates
Colonel Vickery. “We were asked into the guest-chamber—a fine
apartment, its floors covered with priceless Persian carpets, and
round the walls cushions and pillows. Courteously our host turned
to us and, embracing us on each cheek, prayed Allah to bless us
and murmured the graceful compliment that we were now in our own
home. For an hour we sat in that room drinking coffee and highly
sugared tea and smoking, while we watched an Eastern scene that
centuries have not changed. The shereef had only been absent a day,
but such is the etiquette of the East that it behooved all to pay
their respects to him on his safe return from a journey. To the
threshold of the door from time to time came relatives, friends,
and slaves. All removed their slippers and entered the room—the
door was open—according to their station. The slaves came in
quickly bent with due humility, and hastily kissed the two fingers
extended to them and as hastily withdrew. Dependents entered more
leisurely and kissed the back of the shereef’s hand. Turning it
over, they then kissed the part between the first finger and thumb
and withdrew quietly.

“Friends came in, and for these the shereef rose, showed a faint
reluctance at having his hand kissed, and embraced them on one
cheek with murmured salutations. For his relatives he rose, allowed
his hand to be kissed with seeming reluctance, and then saluted
them warmly on each cheek, straining them to his breast and
murmuring many and heartfelt wishes for their long life and
happiness.”

The special deference paid to shereefs by the townsmen and
villagers, in particular, had long ago developed in the city Arabs
a sense of their own superior responsibility and honor. That, of
course, was of great assistance to Lawrence in creating his Arabian
aristocracy. In fact, it was by the sagacious use of this personal
responsibility that Lawrence and his associates were able to unify
the rival tribes and develop men capable of acting as subordinate
leaders under King Hussein, Prince Feisal, and his brothers. In
order to carry out his plans for widening the influence of the
shereefs and making Hussein the recognized ruler of the Hedjaz,
Lawrence had first to win the confidence of all the rival tribes.
Then, quietly, in such a manner as to make them think the idea
entirely their own, he induced them to forget past tribal
differences and unite under the leadership of Hussein and his sons
and the other shereefs, in order to drive out the hated Turk in
the hope of helping bring the war to a victorious conclusion for
the Allies, and in the hope of restoring the califate and the
former splendor of their ancient empire.

King Hussein had to rely entirely on tribal loyalty for his military
strength. His personal Bedouin following was drawn principally from
two of the most numerous tribes of the desert, the Harb and the
Ateibah, together with one tribe of inferior rank, the Juheinah.
These three tribes occupy a great block of territory embracing
three quarters of the Hedjaz and a strip of western Nejd. South
and west of this block, but within the limits of the Hedjaz, dwell
half a dozen small tribes, the Hudheil, Beni, Saad, Buqum, Muteir,
Thaqif, and Juhadlah. Still further south is a group of powerful
tribes, the Dhaur, Hasan, Ghamid, Zahran, and Shahran, whose
adhesion meant the favorable disposal of stouter fighting material
than the Hedjaz itself could supply. All of them sent contingents
to assist King Hussein. From the country north of the central group
he drew reinforcements from three of the smaller Anazeh tribes.
The Billi, immediately north of the Juheinah, enrolled to a man,
and they were followed by the Atiyah and Howeitat. The great
Howeitat tribe, which roams the country between the head of the
Gulf of Akaba and the lower end of the Dead Sea and Central Arabia,
has more enemies, causes more trouble, and takes part in more
blood-feuds than any other group of tent-dwellers. One can meet no
more obstinate, unruly, and quarrelsome people. They seem to have
no fear. The Howeitats find it impossible to unite even among
themselves when attacked from without. About the only thing they
possess in common are wounds and the same tribal marks on their
camels. This great tribe has two subdivisions, the Ibn Jazi and
the Abu Tayi, of which old Auda Abu Tayi, the Bedouin Robin Hood,
is the chieftain. But Auda is chieftain only by virtue of his
daring and prowess, for no man in that spirited group cares to bow
down before the authority of any sheik. For fifteen years the two
sections of the Howeitat waged relentless war upon each other until
the mild-voiced Shereef Lawrence succeeded in getting them both to
unite with Hussein and Feisal to drive out the Turks. But even then
Lawrence found it advisable to keep the two sections attached to
different parts of his army so that they could not leap at each
other’s throats. Both were willing to obey Lawrence’s orders so
long as they were kept apart, but in the event of their meeting
they regarded themselves in honor bound to start a row. Auda Abu
Tayi and his people consider the Druses, who wage the most merciless
war in the desert, among their most bitter blood-enemies, and
Lawrence more than had his hands full to prevent them from killing
each other instead of the Turks. In 1912, fifty of Auda’s fighting
men, mounted on camels, captured eighty Druse cavalrymen in battle.
This is striking evidence of the fighting ability of the Howeitat
warriors, because one horseman is usually worth two camelmen in a
fight, because of the fact a horse can be manœuvered so much more
rapidly. Since that engagement the Druses have been continually on
the alert, hoping to take the Howeitat by surprise and annihilate
them. In spite of these minor insurgencies, the Howeitat, under
Auda’s leadership, became the finest fighting force in Western
Arabia, regarded by Colonel Lawrence as the backbone of his wild
desert army.

Perhaps train-wrecking was Lawrence’s most spectacular pastime,
but nothing he did was more significant or remarkable than this
consolidation of the Arab tribes. With them, raiding hostile
neighbors was both their amusement and their business. To invite
two enemy chieftans into Emir Feisal’s tent to swear friendship
and loyalty over the ghosts of stolen horses and camels was like
asking a Wall Street Magnate to turn over his fortune to Communists.

In order to illustrate the delicacy of the problem that Lawrence
manipulated, let me cite a particular instance. In June, 1917, we
were attending a conference in the courtyard of Emir Feisal’s
palace at Akaba, a one-story structure resembling, with its
extensive interior courtyard, a Spanish hacienda. The palace is
situated in the little town back of a fringe of waving palm-trees,
the only green splash of color in this stretch of sand, where once
was located the great seaport of King Solomon. In a circle around
the emir were seated thirty shereefs and sheiks, all heads of
prominent tribes, and among them six sheiks of the Ibn Jazi
Howeitat. All of a sudden I saw a swift change come over the
unusually impassive countenance of the young Englishman. Jumping
to his feet, Lawrence slipped noiselessly to the doorway of the
courtyard. I saw him speak to a group of Arabs who were about to
enter and then lead them off in another direction. Later, when I
asked him the reason for his speedy exit, he informed me that the
warriors at the entrance were none other than the renowned Auda,
his cousin, Mohammed, and some of the other leading fighting men
of the Abu Tayi. He added that if Auda and his companions had come
on through into the palace courtyard, a bloody battle might have
been fought right in front of Emir Feisal, possibly resulting in
the total disruption of the Arabian forces.



  Photograph: BEDOUIN “IRREGULARS” READY FOR A RAID ON THE TURKS



  Photograph: MR. CHASE OPENING FIRE WITH HIS CINEMA CAMERA
    FROM THE TURRET OF AN ARMORED CAR



Until he became an undisputed leader, Lawrence kept in constant
touch with the king of the Hedjaz and his four sons, principally
Emir Feisal. He lived with the leaders that he might be with them
when they were dining or holding audiences in their tents. It was
his theory that giving direct and formal advice was not nearly so
effective as the constant dropping of ideas in casual talk. At his
meals the Arab is off guard and at his ease, engaging in small talk
and general conversation. Whenever Lawrence wanted to make a new
move, start a raid, or capture a town, he would bring up the
question casually and indirectly, and before half an hour had
passed he usually succeeded in inspiring one of the prominent
sheiks to suggest the plan. Lawrence would then seize his advantage,
and before the sheik’s enthusiasm had time to wane he would push
him on to the execution of the plan.

On one occasion Lawrence was dining with Emir Feisal and some of
his leaders, not far from Akaba. The Arab chieftains thought it
would be a splendid plan to take Deraa, the important railway
junction hundreds of miles farther north, just south of Damascus.
Lawrence knew that Deraa could be captured, but he also realized
that at that stage of the campaign it could not be held for any
length of time; so he said: “Oh, yes, that’s a fine idea! But
first, let’s work out the details.” A great council of war was
held, but somehow the longer the matter was discussed the less
enthusiasm manifested itself. In fact, the Arab leaders became so
disheartened that they even suggested retreating from the position
that they occupied at that moment. Then Lawrence delicately
suggested that such a retreat would greatly anger King Hussein,
and little by little he prevailed upon them to go through with the
original plan for capturing Akaba, which was his first objective.

As Lawrence once remarked to me under his breath when we were
attending a consultation of Arab leaders: “Everybody is a general
in the Arab army. In British circles a general is allowed to make
a mess of things by himself, whereas here in Arabia every man wants
a hand in making the mess complete.”

The Arab Shereefs and sheiks are strong-minded and obstinate men.
Nothing hurts them more than to have some one point out their
mistakes. If you say “rubbish” to an Arab, it is sure to put his
back up, and he will ever afterward decline to help you. Lawrence
never refused to consider any scheme that was put forward, even
though he had the actual power to do so. Instead, he always approved
a plan and then skilfully directed the conversation so that the
Arab himself modified it to suit Lawrence, who would then announce
it publicly to the other Arab leaders before the originator of the
scheme had time to change his point of view. All this would be
manipulated in such a delicate way that the Arab would not for a
moment be aware that he was acting under pressure. If Lawrence and
his British associates had acted behind the shereef’s back they
might have attained certain of their objectives in half the time,
but until Lawrence actually had been raised to supreme command by
the voluntary act of the Arabs themselves and was regarded by them
as a sort of superman he was wise enough never to give direct
orders. Even his suggestions and advice to Emir Feisal he reserved
until they were alone. From the beginning of the campaign Lawrence
adopted the policy of trying not to do too much himself, always
remembering that it was the Arab’s war. At times, when it seemed
necessary, he would even strengthen the prestige of the Arab
leaders with their subordinates at the expense of his own position.
The failure of the Turks and Germans, on the other hand, was partly
due to the fact that they rushed at the Arabs blindly and attempted
to deal with them in a brutally direct manner.

Whenever a new shereef or sheik came for the first time to offer
his services to King Hussein, Lawrence and any other British
officer present made it a point to leave the emir’s tent until the
formality of swearing allegiance on the Koran and touching Feisal’s
hand was over. They did this because the strange sheik might easily
become suspicious if his first impression revealed foreigners in
Feisal’s confidence. At the same time it was Lawrence’s policy
always to have his name associated with those of the shereefs.
Everywhere he went he was regarded as Feisal’s mouthpiece. “Wave
a shereef in front of you like a banner and hide your own mind and
person,” was the maxim of this student of Bedouin tactics. But
Lawrence was careful not to identify himself too long or too often
with any one tribal sheik, for he did not want to lose prestige by
being associated with any particular tribe and its inevitable
feuds. The Bedouins are extremely jealous. When going on an
expedition Lawrence would ride with every one up and down the line,
so that no one could criticize him for showing favoritism.

In every way Lawrence used his knowledge of desert psychology to
the best possible advantage. For instance, he was constantly in
need of detailed information regarding the topography of the
country over which the Arabian forces were campaigning; but the
Bedouins are always reluctant to reveal the location of wells,
springs, and points of vantage. Lawrence convinced them that making
maps was an accomplishment of every educated man. Auda Abu Tayi
and many of the other sheiks became so keenly interested in maps
that they often kept Lawrence up to all hours of the night helping
them with maps that were not of the slightest military value and
in which he was not in the least interested.



  Photograph: GENERAL JAFAAR PASHA FROM BAGDAD



  Photograph: DRUSES FROM THE HAURAN



  CHAPTER XXXIII


  LAWRENCE THE MAN


Although he had been cited for nearly every decoration that the
British and French Governments had to offer, Lawrence sedulously
ran away from them by camel, aëroplane, or any available method of
swift transportation.

The French Government sent word to its contingent in Arabia to
bestow upon the dashing colonel the Croix de Guerre with palms.
Captain Pisani, commandant of the French force at Akaba, was
anxious to make the ceremony an impressive affair. He wanted to
have all of the British, French, and Arab troops out on parade so
that he could deliver an appropriate eulogistic address, present
the decoration to Lawrence, and then kiss him on both cheeks. But
Lawrence heard of the plan and vanished into the desert. Several
times he gave the persistent Pisani the slip. In despair the
commandant went to Major Marshall, Lawrence’s tent-mate, who
advised him to surround the mess-tent some morning when Lawrence
happened to be in Akaba and take him by surprise. So Pisani and
his detachment waited until he returned; then turned up in full
regalia, surrounded him just as he had reached the marmalade
course, and read an impressive document relating how he had gone
for days without food or water and how he had outwitted and defeated
the Turks.

At the end of the campaign, when Lawrence returned to Europe and
left Marshall behind in Arabia, the colonel wrote asking his
tent-mate to ship his things from Akaba to Cairo. Lawrence neither
drank nor smoked but was inordinately fond of chocolate, and there
were dozens of empty tins piled in the corner of his tent, together
with books, bits of theodolites, a camel-saddle, cartridge-drums,
and odds and ends from machine-guns. In one of the empty
chocolate-tins the major found the French decoration which Pisani
had presented. He put it in his own bag, and when Lawrence came to
meet Emir Feisal and the Arab delegates at Marseilles, Major
Marshall “pulled his leg” by making another speech reminding the
colonel of his splendid work for France, and then represented him
with the Croix de Guerre with palms.

When the Duke of Connaught visited Palestine to confer the Grand
Cross of the Order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem on
General Allenby, he intended to present a decoration to Lawrence
as well. The young leader of the Arabian forces happened at the
time to be out “in the blue,” busily blowing up Turkish trains.
Aëroplanes were sent to scour the desert for him. Messages were
dropped on various Arab camps requesting any one who saw Shereef
Lawrence to tell him to report to Jerusalem. One fine day Lawrence
came strolling in on foot through the Turkish lines, to show his
indifference of the enemy. In the meantime the ceremony in Jerusalem
had already taken place, and the Duke of Connaught had gone to
Egypt. Knowing Lawrence’s peculiar aversion to the acceptance of
medals or military honors of any kind, his associates of the
intelligence staff succeeded in seducing him to Cairo only by
inventing some other plausible pretext. Upon his arrival, a
subaltern who was not acquainted with Lawrence’s eccentricities
inadvertently tipped him off to the fine affair that was to be
staged for his benefit. Without stopping to pick up his uniform
and kit at Shepheard’s Hotel, Lawrence hurried out to the
headquarters of the Flying Corps at Helipolis, an oasis a few miles
from Cairo, jumped into an aëroplane, and taxied back to Arabia.

Not only did he care nothing for decorations, but he avoided
wearing what ribbons he possessed. Captain Ferdinand Tuohy, in his
exploits of “The Secret Corps,” says of him: “Colonel Lawrence was
given the Companionship of the Bath for his services. He was
actually recommended for the Victoria Cross, but was not granted
that supreme decoration because there had never been a senior
officer witness of his exploits—a lame enough excuse, seeing that
there was ample proof in a dozen ways that those exploits had well
and truly been carried out.” As a matter of fact, although Lawrence
was posted for the “C. B.,” he never attended any ceremony in
connection with receiving it, and he asked his friends to sidetrack
the recommendation for the Victoria Cross. He also stood aside when
he had an opportunity to become a general at the time when his
force was actually the right wing of Allenby’s army and when he
was practically filling the rôle of a lieutenant-general. He even
declined knighthood. When I asked him why he didn’t want to be
knighted, he replied: “Well, if I become a knight my tailor will
hear about it and double my bills. I have trouble enough paying
them as it is.”

So far as I know there was only one thing that Lawrence wanted out
of the war, and that was something that he didn’t get. I asked him
once if there was anything to be bought with money that he couldn’t
afford but would like to have. His answer, which he gave
unhesitatingly, showed how human and simple he is. He replied, “I
should like to have a Rolls-Royce car with enough tires and petrol
to last me all my life.” The particular car that he would have
liked to have had was the Rolls-Royce tender called the “Blue Mist”
which he used during some of his railway demolition raids around
Damascus. But after the war it was overhauled and became Allenby’s
personal car at the Residency in Cairo.

Lawrence has often been criticized for refusing the various honors
offered him. But the truth of the matter is that he did not decline
them merely to be eccentric. For instance, before the war he was
presented with the Order of the Medjidieh by the sultan of Turkey
for having saved the lives of some of the Germans at work on the
Berlin-to-Bagdad Railway when the natives were going to mob them.
Then, shortly before the outbreak of the Arabian Revolution, while
still a subordinate in Cairo, he received and accepted a number of
decorations including the Legion of Honor. But he refused the
rewards offered to him for what he had accomplished in Arabia
because he had realized from the very beginning that the Allies,
once victory was secured, would find it difficult not only to
satisfy the claims of the Arabs, but even to fulfil their
obligations to the Hedjaz leaders. He realized full well that the
French were determined to have Syria, and he knew all along that
they would never agree to the Arabs’ even keeping Damascus. Lawrence
therefore felt that he did not care to accept anything in return
for having conducted a campaign based on promises which the Allies
could not fulfil to the extent to which he believed they ought to
be fulfilled. Perhaps he would have felt differently had he known
that his friend Emir Feisal would be crowned king in Bagdad after
losing the Syrian throne, which Lawrence foresaw he would never be
allowed to occupy for long. But at the end of the war no one
dreamed that Feisal was going to be the founder of a new dynasty
in the city of Harun al Rashid after first being driven out of
Damascus by the French.

The only honor that Lawrence accepted was one perhaps more dear to
his heart than any other, a fellowship at All Souls’ College,
Oxford. This fellowship is awarded to men of exceptional scholastic
attainments. There are only a score or so of them, usually men past
the prime of life who are completing important historical, literary,
or scientific works. For example, Lord Curzon is a fellow at All
Souls. The distinction is an unusual one. It carries with it a
modest honorarium and attractive quarters at the college, a
delightful place for a distinguished scholar to retire. There is
no prescribed work that goes with it, and Lawrence once told me
that there were but three requirements for a fellowship at All
Souls: to be a good dresser, to be adept at small conversation,
and to be a good judge of port. And then he added: “My clothes are
an abomination; as a parlor conversationalist I am hopeless, and
I never drink. So how I came to receive this honor is a mystery to
me.”

After his election to All Souls, Lawrence divided his time between
the college, the home of a friend in Westminster known as “the
house with the green door,” and a bungalow that he built for
himself in Epping Forest. The porter at All Souls said they never
knew when to expect him, that when he was in residence he rarely
dined with the other fellows, and that the light in his studio
usually burned all night. No doubt he was busy on his Arabian book.
But he did the most of his writing at the “house with the green
door,” where he occupied a bare room that had been an architect’s
office. One of his friends had given him a fur-lined aviator’s
costume, and in the dead of winter when the cold in London is
decidedly penetrating he would sit in that bleak room in his
fur-lined suit writing the inside story of his experiences in
far-off Araby.

On his frequent trips to Oxford he would carry his manuscript in
a little black bag like those used by London bank-messengers. On
one such occasion, after he had gone through the gate to the
platform at Paddington Station, he put the bag down for a moment
and walked over to the news-stand for a paper. When he returned,
the bag was gone. It not only contained the only copy of his
two-hundred-thousand-word manuscript, which he had written entirely
in longhand, but it also contained the journal that he had kept
faithfully through the desert campaign and many valuable original
historical documents that can never be replaced. I saw him a few
days later, and in telling me about the theft of the bag he referred
to it jokingly and merely said: “I’ve been saved a lot of trouble,
and after all it’s a good thing the bag was stolen. The world is
simply spared another war book.” The bag and its contents were
never seen or heard of again. Lawrence’s theory was that they were
probably thrown into the Thames by the disappointed thief, who had
hoped for a better haul. But his friends finally prevailed upon
him to rewrite the book; and this time, in order to find solitude,
away from the curious admirers who were constantly disturbing him
at All Souls, and a solitude that carried with it a means of
keeping body and soul together, he enlisted in the Royal Air Force
under the name of “Private Ross.” Even there he was unable to
conceal his identity, and some one, for a consideration, tipped
off a London newspaper, with the result that once more he found
himself drawn into the lime-light. A few weeks previous he had
agreed to sell the publication rights for a large sum, but when
this unexpected publicity appeared he turned down the contract,
left the Air Force, called on the various London editors imploring
them to allow him to live in peace and print nothing more about
him, and then vanished again.



  Photograph: TALLAL EL-HAREIDHIN OF TAFAS



  Photograph: A SYRIAN VILLAGER



One of Colonel Lawrence’s hobbies is printing books by hand. There
are few things that he likes more than an attractive book, and he
has a valuable library of rare hand-printed volumes. On the edge
of Epping Forest, some ten miles out from London, he built himself
a little cottage with an interior resembling a chapel. Here he
installed a hand-press, and when he finally finished his Arabian
book he made six copies. A few were presented to friends, and one
copy went to the British Museum Library to be locked up in a vault
for forty years; that is, unless some one can prevail upon him to
release it for publication. Rudyard Kipling, George Bernard Shaw,
and several of Lawrence’s literary friends were among those to read
it, and one of the most famous writers of the day declared that he
considered it “a pyramid in English literature.”

Lawrence has great literary ability and a style of his own. He is
as individualistic in his writing as in everything else that he
does. A number of brilliant articles have come from his pen since
he put aside the curved gold sword of a shereef of Mecca, and he
has written an introduction to a new edition of “Arabia Deserta”
which all agree forms a valuable addition to that classic. Nor
could he receive higher literary praise than that, for all
Orientalists concede that the foremost work ever published on
Arabia is Charles Montagu Doughty’s “Travels in Arabia Deserta.”
Lawrence says of it: “There is no sentiment, nothing merely
picturesque, that most common failing of Oriental travel-books.
Doughty’s completeness is devastating. It is a book which begins
powerfully, written in a style which has apparently neither father
nor son, so closely wrought, so tense, so just in its words and
phrases, that it demands a hard reader.”

But Doughty’s book had been out of print for many years, and copies
of it were extremely rare. “We call the book ‘Doughty’ pure and
simple,” adds Lawrence, “for it is a classic, and the personality
of Mr. Doughty hardly comes into question. Indeed, it is rather
shocking to learn that he is a real and living person. The book
has no date and can never grow old. It is the first and indispensable
work upon the Arabs of the desert; and if it has not always been
referred to, or enough read, that has been because it was
excessively rare.”

So he set about to rectify this deficiency. He proposed that a new
two-volume edition be published to sell for forty-five dollars,
half what dealers had been asking for second-hand copies of the
original. Doughty, an old man, had for years been devoting himself
to poetry, and existing on a poet’s pittance. So Lawrence had at
least three reasons for seeing a new edition published: to get the
public better acquainted with a classic, to augment the income of
his illustrious friend and predecessor, and to pay personal tribute
to one to whom he felt deeply indebted.

In the preface Doughty says regarding Lawrence and the new edition:
“A re-print has been called for; and is reproduced thus, at the
suggestion chiefly of my distinguished friend, Colonel T. E.
Lawrence, leader with Feysal, Meccan Prince, of the nomad tribesmen;
whom they, as might none other at that time marching from Jidda,
the port of Mecca, were able, (composing, as they went, the tribes’
long-standing blood feuds and old enmities), to unite with them in
victorious arms, against the corrupt Turkish sovereignty in those
parts: and who greatly thus serving his Country’s cause and her
Allies, from the Eastward, amidst the Great War, has in that
imperishable enterprise, traversed the same wide region of Desert
Arabia.”

No sooner was the edition off the press than it was exhausted, and
since then more editions have followed. So Lawrence’s ambition to
do something for Doughty, and gain for his classic a still wider
circulation, was more than realized. Unquestionably the sale of
“Arabia Deserta” was stimulated by the fact that Lawrence had
written a special introduction to it in which he paid glowing
tribute to the great traveler whose experiences in the desert had
done so much to pave the way for his own success. Lawrence’s
introduction to this new edition also gives us a hint as to his
own skill with the pen and as to what we may expect from his own
volume on Arabia. He writes:

  The realism of the book is complete. Doughty tries to
  tell the full and exact truth of all that he saw. If there is
  a bias it will be against the Arabs, for he liked them so
  much; he was so impressed by the strange attraction, isolation
  and independence of this people that he took pleasure
  in bringing out their virtues by a careful expression of their
  faults. “If one live any time with the Arab he will have all
  his life after a feeling of the desert.” He had experienced
  it himself, the test of nomadism, that most deeply biting of
  all social disciplines, and for our sakes he strained all the
  more to paint it in its true colours, as a life too hard, too
  empty, too denying for all but the strongest and most
  determined men. Nothing is more powerful and real than
  this record of all his daily accidents and obstacles, and the
  feelings that came to him on the way. His picture of the
  Semites, sitting to the eyes in a cloaca, but with their brows
  touching Heaven, sums up in full measure their strength
  and weakness, and the strange contradictions of their
  thought which quicken curiosity at our first meeting with
  them.



  Photograph: COL. T. E. LAWRENCE



  Photograph: GENERAL FAKRI PASHA, THE TURKISH TIGER
    WHO DEFENDED MEDINA



  To try and solve their riddle many of us have gone far
  into their society, and seen the clear hardness of their
  belief, a limitation almost mathematical, which repels us
  by its unsympathetic form. Semites have no half-tones in
  their register of vision. They are a people of primary
  colours, especially of black and white, who see the world always
  in line. They are a certain people, despising doubt,
  our modern crown of thorns. They do not understand our
  metaphysical difficulties, our self-questionings. They know
  only truth and untruth, belief and unbelief, without our
  hesitating retinue of finer shades.

  Semites are black and white not only in vision, but in
  their inner furnishing; black and white not merely in clarity,
  but in apposition. Their thoughts live easiest among
  extremes. They inhabit superlatives by choice. Sometimes
  the great inconsistents seem to possess them jointly.
  They exclude compromise, and pursue the logic of their
  ideas to its absurd ends, without seeing incongruity in their
  opposed conclusions. They oscillate with cool head and
  tranquil judgment from asymptote to asymptote, so imperturbably
  that they would seem hardly conscious of their
  giddy flight.

Lawrence’s command of English is amazing, by reason, of course, of
his familiarity with the classics and his knowledge of both ancient
and modern languages. His vocabulary is wider than that of most
learned professors, and he has great descriptive powers, as we have
observed from his description of the death of his friend Tallal el
Haredhin of Tafas.

While in London and at All Souls, he lived much as he did in the
desert. Indeed, from force of habit after his long experience in
the East, he has become much like the Bedouins and has no desire
for luxuries. He rarely eats or sleeps regularly, and says it is
fatal if you are caught in an emergency to have formed regular
habits. He usually goes without sleep one night a week and eats
like a bird. It is his custom to sleep from three to ten in the
morning and then take a long walk until three in the afternoon.
Upon his return from his walk he would work until two in the
morning, when he would go out for his dinner. The only places in
London open at that unusual hour were the station restaurants,
where he would tell the waiter to bring him anything he liked. He
hates to order food, and a few minutes after he has had a meal he
has forgotten what the dishes were. When walking along the streets
in London he is usually absorbed and pays no attention to anything
until he comes to with a start and finds that a bus is about to
run him down.

In avoiding the network of modern complexities he seldom has to
worry about the countless things that crowd the joy out of our
ultra-civilized modern life. He has no private income and scorns
money except what he needs for the simple necessities of life and
for his one luxury, books. His mother once told me that he had
always been a trial to her because she never knew what he was going
to do next. He himself declares that he probably will never marry
because “no woman would live with me.”

Yet despite his scorn of money in private life, and his well nigh
complete lack of it, while in the desert he had almost unlimited
credit and could draw on his government up to many hundreds of
thousands of pounds. It was by no means an uncommon sight to see
him stuffing ten thousand pounds in gold sovereigns in one camel-bag
and ten thousand in another. Then off he would go with it,
accompanied only by ten or twelve Bedouins. On one occasion Lawrence
drew a paltry six hundred pounds from Major Scott “to do a bit of
shopping.” Major Scott kept the boxes of sovereigns in his tent at
headquarters in Akaba. Major Maynard, who was in charge of some of
the records, heard of this and asked for a receipt. When Scott
informed Lawrence, the latter nearly doubled up with laughter and
said, “He shall have it!” And so far as I could find out that was
the only receipt he ever signed. As for the letters he received in
the desert, he usually read them but then burned them and never
bothered about answering.

His has indeed been a strange existence, full of individual
experience. Fond of Oriental rugs, Lawrence picked up many rare
ones during his wanderings. On the floor of his tent at Akaba were
two beauties. Lawrence slept on one of them, while his companion,
Major Marshall, used a camp-bed. One of the two rugs is now in the
possession of Lady Allenby, while Marshall has the other. One day
in the bazaar in Jedda, Lawrence saw a barber kneeling on a
prayer-rug that he liked. It had two holes in it three or four
inches in diameter. The barber offered it to him for two pounds,
and Lawrence bought it. When he took it to Cairo and had it
appraised by one of the leading rug merchants of Egypt he found
that it was worth about seventy pounds after being repaired. So
Lawrence sent the barber a five-pound note. At his mother’s home
in Oxford he had a pile of Oriental rugs and carpets still covered
with the dust of the East. A friend of the family got married at
a time when Lawrence was away, and his mother sent one of the rugs
as a wedding gift. When the colonel returned she told him about
the incident and said she presumed it was not worth much. “That
one you gave away cost me 147 pounds” ($665), replied Lawrence.
But he was not the least bit vexed and promptly forgot all about
it.

When the year was up during which he had promised to serve as Near
Eastern advisor at the Colonial Office, Lawrence put on his hat
and walked out. Since then he has found a new exhaust for his
surplus energy. He met an army officer who had a high-power
motor-cycle which was too much for the latter to handle. So Lawrence
bought it and streaks it about England much as he formerly raced
across the North Arabian Desert in the “Blue Mist.”

When an undergraduate at Oxford, he and another student made a
solemn compact that if either ever did anything particularly
noteworthy he would wire for the other to come so that they could
celebrate. In 1920 Lawrence telegraphed his friend as follows:
“Come at once. Have done something.” This was the first word that
had passed between the two since their pre-war college days. When
the friend arrived this is what Lawrence had done that he thought
worth celebrating: he had just finished his bungalow on the edge
of Epping Forest, and was keeping cows!



  Photograph: THE KING-MAKER



  Photograph: SUNSET IN THE LAND OF THE ARABIAN KNIGHTS



Epping Forest is a semi-national preserve of some sort, and there
is a law that forbids the erection of non-movable structures. After
Lawrence had finished his bungalow the police came and pointed out
to him that he had broken the law because his house was a stationary
edifice. So Lawrence bought some paint and made four camouflage
red wheels on the sides of the cottage. This so amused the
authorities that they said no more about the law. But not long
afterward a fire wiped out nearly everything he had.

As to what will happen to Lawrence in the future, only Allah knows.
One thing is certain, that he will not permit his country to make
a hero out of him. The maker of history has once more become the
student of history. But Lawrence may live to see the effect of the
wave that he rolled up out of the desert, in the form of an
important new power in the East. As a result of the Arabian war of
liberation, which was not a foolish dream on paper, and as a result
of Allenby’s smashing campaign in Palestine and Syria, three new
Arabian states have come into existence: the kingdom of Hedjaz
under Hussein I, of Mecca; the independent state of Transjordania
under Hussein’s second son, the Sultan Abdullah; and the kingdom
of Iraq in Mesopotamia, where Hussein’s third son, King Feisal I,
occupies the throne. It is the dream of these three, assisted by
Hussein’s eldest son, the Emir Ali, who remains in Mecca, one day
to form a United States of Arabia.

Much depends on King Feisal. Colonel Lawrence played the dominate
part in making him the greatest Arab in five centuries. But the
task before Feisal is stupendous. He has vision and high ideals
for his people. Will he be strong enough to maintain his position
in Bagdad and remain the leading figure in the Arabian world?
Events are now moving swiftly in the Near East. If King Feisal can,
through the quiet force of his personality, continue the work of
wiping out the ancient quarrels between the tribes and cities of
the desert in which task he and his father and brothers were given
such effective help by Lawrence, and if the nations of the West
will send railway, sanitary, and irrigation engineers and
disinterested military and political advisers; coöperate in the
establishment of schools; and lend financial support, the glory
that once was Babylon’s may come again in Mesopotamia. The future
of King Feisal and his brothers may be the future of Arabia. None
may know the end of the story. But one thing is certain, and that
is that Feisal, like his romantic predecessor, Harun al Rashid of
the Arabian Nights, is a just and merciful monarch; but had it not
been for the youthful Lawrence, Feisal would not be ruling in
Bagdad to-day, nor would his brother Abdullah be the sultan of
Transjordania, nor would the Arabs recently have had the opportunity
to proclaim King Hussein as the Calif of all Islam and Commander
of the Faithful. For it was this young man who destroyed the
thousand-year-old network of blood-feuds, who built up the Arabian
army, who planned the strategy of the desert campaign and led the
Arabs into battle, who swept the Turks from a thousand miles of
country between Mecca and Damascus, who was the brains of the epic
Arabian campaign and rode in triumph through the bazaars of
Damascus, and established a government for Prince Feisal in the
capital of Omar and Saladin, the oldest surviving city in the
world. But without a complete understanding of the mentality and
instinct of Arabia, and without a sincere love for the peoples of
the desert, this would never have been possible. Nor is it
surprising that with such love and understanding from such a man,
translated into successful policies and glorious deeds, he won the
adoration of the Arab race.

Little did young Lawrence dream, when he was studying Hittite
ruins, that it was his destiny to play a major rôle in building a
new empire, instead of piecing together, for a scholar’s thesis,
the fragments of a dead-and-buried kingdom. Captain Tuohy has
tersely said in his brief note in “The Secret Corps,” for “romantic
adventure his career has probably been unexampled in this or in
any other war.”

This twenty-eight-year-old poet and scholar had started across the
Arabian Desert in February, 1916, to raise an army, accompanied by
only three companions. I do not know of a more helpless task than
this that has been essayed during the last thousand years. They at
first had no money, no means of transportation except a few camels,
and no means of communication except camel-riders. They were trying
to raise and equip an army in a country which has no manufacturing
interests, which produces very little food and less water. In many
parts of Arabia water-holes are a five days’ camel trek apart. They
had no laws to help them, and they were trying to raise an army
among the nomadic Bedouin tribes that had been separated from one
another by blood-feuds for hundreds of years. They were trying to
unify a people who quarrel over the possession of the water-holes
and pasture-lands of Arabia, and war with one another for the
possession of camels; a people who, when they meet one another in
the desert, usually substitute volleys of pot-shots for the
conventional rules of Oriental courtesy.

In habit, instinct, and mental outlook Europe is utterly at variance
with Asia, and it is rarely, only once in hundreds of years, that
there comes forward some brilliant Anglo-Saxon, Celt, or Latin who,
possessing an understanding that transcends race, religion, and
tradition, can adopt the Eastern temperament at will. Such men were
Marco Polo, the Venetian, and General Charles Gordon. Such a man
is Thomas Edward Lawrence, the modern Arabian knight.



 [End]





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