Title: Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches
Author: Leslie, Eliza
Language: English
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Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches

by Eliza Leslie

TENTH EDITION, WITH IMPROVEMENTS AND SUPPLEMENTARY RECEIPTS.

1840.


GENERAL CONTENTS.

 PREFACE
 INTRODUCTORY HINTS

 Soups; including those of Fish
 Fish; various ways of dressing
 Shell Fish; Oysters, Lobsters, Crabs, Etc.
 Beef; including pickling and smoking it
 Veal
 Mutton and Lamb
 Pork; including Bacon, Sausages, Etc.
 Venison; Hares, Rabbits, Etc.
 Poultry and Game
 Gravy and Sauces
 Store Fish Sauces; Catchups, Etc.
 Flavoured Vinegars;
 Mustards & Pepper
 Vegetables; including Indian Corn, Tomatas, Mushrooms, Etc.
 Eggs; usual ways of dressing, including Omelets
 Pickling
 Sweetmeats; including Preserves and Jellies
 Pastry and Puddings; also Pancakes,
Dumplings, Custards, Etc.,
 Syllabubs; also Ice Creams and Blanc-mange
 Cakes; including various sweet Cakes and Gingerbread
 Warm Cakes for Breakfast and Tea; also, Bread, Yeast, Butter,
Cheese, Tea, Coffee, Etc.
 Domestic Liquors; including home-made Beer, Wines, Shrub,
Cordials, Etc.
 Preparations for the Sick
 Perfumery
 Miscellaneous Receipts
 Additional Receipts

 Animals used as Butchers’ Meat
 Index



PREFACE


The success of her little book entitled “Seventy-five Receipts in
Cakes, Pastry, and Sweetmeats.” has encouraged the author to attempt a
larger and more miscellaneous work on the subject of cookery,
comprising as far as practicable whatever is most useful in its various
departments; and particularly adapted to the domestic economy of her
own country. Designing it as a manual of American housewifery, she has
avoided the insertion of any dishes whose ingredients cannot be
procured on our side of the Atlantic, and which require for their
preparation utensils that are rarely found except in Europe. Also, she
has omitted every thing which may not, by the generality of tastes, be
considered good of its kind, and well worth the trouble and cost of
preparing.

The author has spared no pains in collecting and arranging, perhaps the
greatest number of practical and original receipts that have ever
appeared in a similar work; flattering herself that she has rendered
them so explicit as to be easily understood, and followed, even by
inexperienced cooks. The directions are given as minutely as if each
receipt was “to stand alone by itself,” all references to others being
avoided; except in some few instances to the one immediately preceding;
it being a just cause of complaint that in some of the late cookery
books, the reader, before finishing the article, is desired to search
out pages and numbers in remote parts of the volume.

In the hope that her system of cookery may be consulted with equal
advantage by families in town and in country, by those whose condition
makes it expedient to practise economy, and by others whose
circumstances authorize a liberal expenditure, the author sends it to
take its chance among the multitude of similar publications, satisfied
that it will meet with as much success as it may be found to
deserve,—more she has no right to expect.

_Philadelphia, April 15th, 1837_.



INTRODUCTORY HINTS.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.


We recommend to all families that they should keep in the house: a pair
of scales, (one of the scales deep enough to hold flour, sugar, &c.,
conveniently,) and a set of tin measures: as accuracy in proportioning
the ingredients is indispensable to success in cookery. It is best to
have the scales permanently fixed to a small beam projecting (for
instance) from one of the shelves of the store-room. This will preclude
the frequent inconvenience of their getting twisted, unlinked, and
otherwise out of order; a common consequence of putting them in and out
of their box, and carrying them from place to place. The weights (of
which there should be a set from two pounds to a quarter of an ounce)
ought carefully to be kept in the box, that none of them may be lost or
mislaid.

A set of tin measures (with small spouts or lips) from a gallon down to
half a jill, will be found very convenient in every kitchen; though
common pitchers, bowls, glasses, &c. may be substituted. It is also
well to have a set of wooden measures from a bushel to a quarter of a
peck.

Let it be remembered, that of liquid measure—

Two jills are half a pint.
Two pints—one quart.
Four quarts—one gallon.

Of dry measure—

Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck.
One gallon—half a peck.
Two gallons—one peck.
Four gallons—half a bushel.
Eight gallons—one bushel.

About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a common sized
tea-spoon.

Four table-spoonfuls or half a jill, will fill a common wine glass.

Four wine glasses will fill a half-pint or common tumbler, or a large
coffee-cup.

A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half.

Of flour, butter, sugar, and most articles used in cakes and pastry, a
quart is generally about equal in quantity to a pound avoirdupois,
(sixteen ounces.) Avoirdupois is the weight designated throughout this
book.

Ten eggs generally weigh one pound before they are broken.

A table-spoonful of salt is generally about one ounce.



DIRECTIONS FOR COOKERY, IN ITS VARIOUS BRANCHES.



SOUPS.


GENERAL REMARKS.

Always use soft water for making soup, and be careful to proportion the
quantity of water to that of the meat. Somewhat less than a quart of
water to a pound of meat, is a good rule for common soups. Rich soups,
intended for company, may have a still smaller allowance of water.

Soup should always be made entirely of fresh meat that has not been
previously cooked. An exception to this rule may sometimes be made in
favour of the remains of a piece of roast beef that has been _very
much_ under-done in roasting. This may be _added_ to a good piece of
raw meat. Cold ham, also, may be occasionally put into white soups.

Soup made of cold meat has always a vapid, disagreeable taste, very
perceptible through all the seasoning, and which nothing indeed can
disguise. Also, it will be of a bad, dingy colour. The juices of the
meat having been exhausted by the first cooking, the undue proportion
of watery liquid renders it, for soup, indigestible and unwholesome, as
well as unpalatable. As there is little or no nutriment to be derived
from soup made with cold meat, it is better to refrain from using it
for this purpose, and to devote the leavings of the table to some other
object. No person accustomed to really good soup, made from fresh meat,
can ever be deceived in the taste, even when flavoured with wine and
spices. It is not true that French cooks have the art of producing
_excellent_ soups from cold scraps. There is much _bad_ soup to be
found in France, at inferior houses; but _good_ French cooks are not,
as is generally supposed, really in the practice of concocting any
dishes out of the refuse of the table. And we repeat, that cold meat,
even when perfectly good, and used in a large quantity, has not
sufficient substance to flavour soup, or to render it wholesome.

Soup, however, that has been originally made of raw meat entirely, is
frequently better the second day than the first; provided that it is
re-boiled only for a very short time, and that no additional water is
added to it.

Unless it has been allowed to boil too hard, so as to exhaust the
water, the soup-pot will not require replenishing. When it is found
absolutely necessary to do so, the additional water must be boiling hot
when poured in; if lukewarm or cold, it will entirely spoil the soup.

Every particle of fat should be carefully skimmed from the surface.
Greasy soup is disgusting and unwholesome. The lean of meat is much
better for soup than the fat.

Long and slow boiling is necessary to extract the strength from the
meat. If boiled fast over a large fire, the meat becomes hard and
tough, and will not give out its juices.

Potatoes, if boiled in the soup, are thought by some to render it
unwholesome, from the opinion that the water in which potatoes have
been cooked is almost a poison. As potatoes are a part of every dinner,
it is very easy to take a few out of the pot in which they have been
boiled by themselves, and to cut them up and add them to the soup just
before it goes to table.

The cook should season the soup but very slightly with salt and pepper.
If she puts in too much, it may spoil it for the taste of most of those
that are to eat it; but if too little, it is easy to add more to your
own plate.

The practice of thickening soup by stirring flour into it is not a good
one, as it spoils both the appearance and the taste. If made with a
sufficient quantity of good fresh meat, and not too much water, and if
boiled long and slowly, it will have substance enough without flour.

FAMILY SOUP.

Take a shin or leg of beef that has been newly killed; the fore leg is
best, as there is the most meat on it. Have it cut into three pieces,
and wash it well. To each pound allow somewhat less than a quart of
water; for instance, to ten pounds of leg of beef, nine quarts of water
is a good proportion. Put it into a large pot, and add half a
table-spoonful of salt. Hang it over a good fire, as early as six
o’clock in the morning, if you dine at two. When it has come to a hard
boil, and the scum has risen, (which it will do as soon as it has
boiled,) skim it well. Do not remove the lid more frequently than is
absolutely necessary, as uncovering the pot causes the flavour to
evaporate. Then set it on hot coals in the corner, and keep it
simmering steadily, adding fresh coals so as to continue a regular
heat.

About nine o’clock, put in four carrots, one parsnip, and a large onion
cut into slices, and four small turnips, and eight tomatas, also cut
up; add a head of celery cut small. Put in a very small head of
cabbage, cut into little pieces. If you have any objection to cabbage,
substitute a larger proportion of the other vegetables. Put in also a
bunch of sweet marjoram, tied up in a thin muslin rag to prevent its
floating on the top.

Let the soup simmer unceasingly till two o’clock, skimming it well:
then take it up, and put it into a tureen. If your dinner hour is
later, you may of course begin the soup later; but it will require at
least eight hours’ cooking; remembering to put in the vegetables three
hours after the meat.

If you wish to send the meat to table, take the best part of it out of
the soup, about two hours before dinner. Have ready another pot with a
dozen tomatas and a few cloves. Moisten them with a little of the soup,
just sufficient to keep them from burning. When the tomatas have stewed
down soft, put the meat upon them, and let it brown till dinner time
over a few coals, keeping the pot closely covered; then send it to
table on a dish by itself. Let the remainder of the meat be left in the
large pot till you send up the soup, as by that time it will be boiled
to rags and have transferred all its flavour to the liquid.

This soup will be greatly improved by the addition of a few dozen
ochras cut into very thin slices, and put in with the other vegetables.
You may put Lima beans into it, green peas, or indeed any vegetables
you like: or you may thicken it with ochras and tomatas only.

Next day, take what is left of the soup, put it into a pot, and simmer
it over hot coals for half an hour: a longer time will weaken the
taste. If it has been well made and kept in a cool place, it will be
found better the second day than the first.

If your family is very small, and the leg of beef large, and the season
winter, it may furnish soup for four successive days. Cut the beef in
half; make soup of the first half, in the manner above directed, and
have the remainder warmed next day; then on the third day make fresh
soup of the second half.

We have been minute in these directions; for if strictly followed, the
soup, though plain, will be found excellent.

If you do not intend to serve up the meat separately, break to pieces
all the bones with a mallet or kitchen cleaver. This, by causing them
to give out their marrow, &c., will greatly enrich the liquid. Do this,
of course, when you first begin the soup.

FINE BEEF SOUP.

Begin this soup the day before it is wanted. Take a good piece of fresh
beef that has been newly killed: any substantial part will do that has
not too much fat about it: a fore leg is very good for this purpose.
Wash it well. Cut off all the meat, and break up the bones. Put the
meat and the bones into a large pot, very early in the day, so as to
allow eight or nine hours for its boiling. Proportion the water to the
quantity of meat—about a pint and a half to each pound. Sprinkle the
meat with a small quantity of pepper and salt. Pour on the water, hang
it over a moderate fire, and boil it slowly; carefully skimming off all
the fat that rises to the top, and keeping it closely covered, except
when you raise the lid to skim it. Do not, on any account, put in
additional water to this soup while it is boiling; and take care that
the boiling goes steadily on, as, if it stops, the soup will be much
injured. But if the fire is too great, and the soup boils too fast, the
meat will become hard and tough, and will not give out its juices.

After the meat is reduced to rags, and the soup sufficiently boiled,
remove the pot from the fire, and let it stand in the corner for a
quarter of an hour to settle. Then take it up, strain it into a large
earthen pan, cover it, and set it away in a cool dry place till next
day. Straining it makes it clear and bright, and frees it from the
shreds of meat and bone. If you find that it jellies in the pan, (which
it will if properly made,) do not disturb it till you are ready to put
it into the pot for the second boiling, as breaking the jelly may
prevent it from keeping well.

On the following morning, boil separately, carrots, turnips, onions,
celery, and whatever other vegetables you intend to thicken the soup
with. Tomatas will greatly improve it. Prepare them by taking off the
skin, cutting them into small pieces, and stewing them in their own
juice till they are entirely dissolved. Put on the carrots before any
of the other vegetables, as they require the longest time to boil. Or
you may slice and put into the soup a portion of the vegetables you are
boiling for dinner; but they must be nearly done before you put them
in, as the second boiling of the soup should not exceed half an hour,
or indeed, just sufficient time to heat it thoroughly.

Scrape off carefully from the cake of jellied soup whatever fat or
sediment may still be remaining on it; divide the jelly into pieces,
and about half an hour before it is to go to table, put it into a pot,
add the various vegetables, (having first sliced them,) in sufficient
quantities to make the soup very thick; hang it over the fire and let
it boil slowly, or simmer steadily till dinner time. Boiling it much on
the second day will destroy the flavour, and render it flat and
insipid. For this reason, in making fine, clear beef soup, the
vegetables are to be cooked separately. They need not be put in the
first day, as the soup is to be strained; and on the second day, if put
in raw, the length of time required to cook them would spoil the soup
by doing it too much. We repeat, that when soup has been sufficiently
boiled on the first day, and all the juices and flavour of the meat
thoroughly extracted, half an hour is the utmost it requires on the
second.

Carefully avoid seasoning it too highly. Soup, otherwise excellent, is
frequently spoiled by too much pepper and salt. These condiments can be
added at table, according to the taste of those that are eating it; but
if too large a proportion of them is put in by the cook, there is then
no remedy, and the soup may by some be found uneatable.

Many persons prefer boiling all the vegetables in the soup on the first
day, thinking that they improve its flavour. This may be done in common
soup that is not to be strained, but is inadmissible if you wish it to
be very bright and clear. Also, unless you have a garden and a
profusion of vegetables of your own, it is somewhat extravagant, as
when strained out they are of no further use, and are therefore wasted.

MUTTON SOUP.

Cut off the shoulder part of a fore quarter of mutton, and having cut
all the meat from the bone, put it into a soup pot with two quarts of
water. As soon as it boils, skim it well, and then slacken the fire and
simmer the meat for an hour and a half. Then take the remainder of the
mutton, and put it whole into the soup-pot with sufficient boiling
water to cover it well, and salt it to your taste. Skim it the moment
the fresh piece of meat begins to boil, and about every quarter of an
hour afterwards. It should boil slowly five hours. Prepare half a dozen
turnips, four carrots, and three onions, (all cut up, but not small,)
and put them in about an hour and a half before dinner. [Footnote: The
carrots should be put in early, as they require a long time to boil; if
full grown, at least three hours.] You may also put in some small
dumplings. Add some chopped parsley.

Cut the meat off the scrag into small pieces, and send it to table in
the tureen with the soup. The other half of the mutton should be served
on a separate dish, with whole turnips boiled and laid round it. Many
persons are fond of mutton that has been boiled in soup.

You may thicken this soup with rice or barley that has first been
soaked in cold water; or with green peas; or with young corn, cut down
from the cob; or with tomatas scalded, peeled, and cut into pieces.

_Cabbage Soup_ may be made in the same manner, of neck of mutton. Omit
all the other vegetables, and put in a large head of white cabbage,
stripped of the outside leaves, and cut small.

_Noodle Soup_ can be made in this manner also. Noodles are a mixture of
flour and beaten egg, made into a stiff paste, kneaded, rolled out very
thin, and cut into long narrow slips, not thicker than straws, and then
dried three or four hours in the sun, on tin or pewter plates. They
must be put in the soup shortly before dinner, as, if boiled too long
they will go to pieces.

With the mutton that is taken from the soup you may send to table some
suet dumplings, boiled in another pot, and served on a separate dish.
Make them in the proportion of half a pound of beef suet to a pound and
a quarter of flour. Chop the suet as fine as possible, rub it into the
flour, and mix it into a dough with a little cold water. Roll it out
thick, and cut it into dumplings about as large as the top of a
tumbler, and boil them an hour.

VEAL SOUP.

The knuckle or leg of veal is the best for soup. Wash it and break up
the bones. Put it into a pot with a pound of ham or bacon cut into
pieces, and water enough to cover the meat. A set of calf’s feet, cut
in half, will greatly improve it. After it has stewed slowly, till all
the meat drops to pieces, strain it, return it to the pot, and put in a
head of celery cut small, three onions, a bunch of sweet marjoram, a
carrot and a turnip cut into pieces, and two dozen black pepper-corns,
with salt to your taste. Add some small dumplings made of flour and
butter. Simmer it another hour, or till all the vegetables are
sufficiently done, and thus send it to table.

You may thicken it with noodles, that is paste made of flour and beaten
egg, and cut into long thin slips. Or with vermicelli, rice, or barley;
or with green peas, or asparagus tops.

RICH VEAL SOUP.

Take three pounds of the scrag of a neck of veal, cut it into pieces,
and put it with the bones (which must be broken up) into a pot with two
quarts of water. Stew it till the meat is done to rags, and skim it
well. Then strain it and return it to the pot.

Blanch and pound in a mortar to a smooth paste, a quarter of a pound of
sweet almonds, and mix them with the yolks of six hard boiled eggs
grated, mid a pint of cream, which must first have been boiled or it
will curdle in the soup. Season it with nutmeg and mace. Stir the
mixture into the soup, and let it boil afterward about three minutes,
stirring all the time. Lay in the bottom of the tureen some slices of
bread without the crust. Pour the soup upon it, and send it to table.

CLEAR GRAVY SOUP.

Having well buttered the inside of a nicely tinned stew-pot, cut half a
pound of ham into slices, and lay them at the bottom, with three pounds
of the lean of fresh beef, and as much veal, cut from the bones, which
you must afterward break to pieces, and lay on the meat. Cover the pan
closely, and set it over a quick fire. When the meat begins to stick to
the pan, turn it; and when there is a nice brown glaze at the bottom,
cover the meat with cold water. Watch it well, and when it is just
coming to a boil, put in half a pint of cold water. This will cause the
scum to rise. Skim it well, and then pour in another half pint of cold
water; skim it again; pour in cold water as before, half a pint at a
time, and repeat this till no more scum rises. In skimming, carefully
avoid stirring the soup, as that will injure its clearness.

In the mean time prepare your vegetables. Peel off the outer skin of
three large white onions and slice them. Pare three large turnips, and
slice them also. Wash clean and cut into small pieces three carrots,
and three large heads of celery. If you cannot obtain fresh celery,
substitute a large table-spoonful of celery seed, tied up in a bit of
clear muslin. Put the vegetables into the soup, and then place the pot
on one side of the fire, where the heat is not so great as in the
middle. Let it boil gently for four hours. Then strain the soup through
a fine towel or linen bag into a large stone pan, but do not squeeze
the bag, or the soup will be cloudy, and look dull instead of clear. In
pouring it into the straining cloth, be careful not to disturb the
ingredients at the bottom of the soup-pot.

This soup should be of a fine clear amber colour. If not perfectly
bright after straining, you may clarify it in this manner. Put it into
the stew-pan. Break the whites of two eggs into a basin, carefully
avoiding the smallest particle of the yolk. Beat the white of egg to a
stiff froth, and then mix it gradually with the soup. Set it over the
fire, and stir it till it boils briskly. Then take it off, and set it
beside the fire to settle for ten minutes. Strain it then through a
clean napkin, and it will be fit for use. But it is better to have the
soup clear by making it carefully, than to depend on clarifying it
afterward, as the white of egg weakens the taste.

In making this (which is quite a show-soup) it is customary to reverse
the general rule, and pour in cold water.

SOUPE À LA JULIENNE.

Make a gravy soup as in the preceding receipt, and strain it before you
put in the vegetables. Cut some turnips and carrots into ribands, and
some onions and celery into lozenges or long diamond-shaped pieces.
Boil them separately. When the vegetables are thoroughly boiled, put
them with the soup into the tureen, and then lay gently on the top some
small squares of toasted bread without crust; taking care that they do
not crumble down and disturb the brightness of the soup, which should
be of a clear amber colour.

MACCARONI SOUP.

This also is made of clear gravy soup. Cut up and boil the maccaroni by
itself in a very little water, allowing a quarter of a pound to a quart
of soup. The pieces should be about an inch long. Put a small piece of
butter with it. It must boil till tender, but not till it breaks. Throw
it into the soup shortly before it goes to table, and give it one boil
up. Send to table with it a plate or glass of rasped Parmesan or other
rich cheese, with a dessert spoon in it, that those who like it may put
it into their soup on the plate.

While the maccaroni is boiling, take care that it does not get into
lumps.

RICH MACCARONI SOUP.

Take a quart of clear gravy soup, and boil in it a pound of the best
maccaroni cut into pieces. When it is tender, take out half of the
maccaroni, and add to the remainder two quarts more of the soup. Boil
it till the maccaroni is entirely dissolved and incorporated with the
liquid. Strain it; then return it to the soup-pan, and add to it the
remainder of the maccaroni, (that was taken out before the pieces
broke,) and put in a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese. Let
it simmer awhile, but take it up before it comes to a boil.

It may be made with milk instead of gravy soup.

VERMICELLI SOUP.

Cut a knuckle of veal, or a neck of mutton into small pieces, and put
them, with the bones broken up, into a large stew-pan. Add the meat
sliced from a hock or shank of ham, a quarter of a pound of butter, two
large onions sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a head of celery cut
small. Cover the pan closely, and set it without any water over a slow
fire for an hour or more, to extract the essence from the meat. Then
skim it well, and pour in four quarts of boiling water, and let it boil
gently till all the meat is reduced to rags. Strain it, set it again on
the fire, and add a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, which has first
been scalded in boiling water. Season it to your taste with salt and
cayenne pepper, and let it boil five minutes. Lay a large slice of
bread in the bottom of your tureen, and pour the soup upon it.

For the veal or mutton you may substitute a pair of large fowls cut
into pieces; always adding the ham or a few slices of bacon, without
which it will be insipid. Old fowls that are fit for no other purpose
will do very well for soup.

MILK SOUP.

Boil two quarts of milk with a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, and
two ounces of bitter ones, blanched and broken to pieces, and a large
stick of cinnamon broken up. Stir in sugar enough to make it very
sweet. When it has boiled strain it. Cut some thin slices of bread, and
(having pared off the crust) toast them. Lay them in the bottom of a
tureen, pour a little of the hot milk over them, and cover them close,
that they may soak. Beat the yolks of five eggs very light Set the milk
on hot coals, and add the eggs to it by degrees; stirring it all the
time till it thickens. Then take it off instantly, lest it curdle, and
pour it into the tureen, boiling hot, over the bread.

This will be still better if you cover the bottom with slices of baked
apple.

RICH BROWN SOUP.

Take six pounds of the lean of fresh beef, cut from the bone. Stick it
over with four dozen cloves. Season it with a tea-spoonful of salt, a
tea-spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of mace, and a beaten nutmeg.
Slice half a dozen onions; fry them in butter; chop them, and spread
them over the meat after you have put it into the soup-pot. Pour in
five quarts of water, and stew it slowly for five or six hours;
skimming it well. When the meat has dissolved into shreds, strain it,
and return the liquid to the pot. Then add a tumbler and a half, or six
wine glasses of claret or port wine. Simmer it again slowly till dinner
time. When the soup is reduced to three quarts, it is done enough. Put
it into a tureen, and send it to table.

RICH WHITE SOUP.

Take a pair of large fat fowls. Cut them up. Butter the inside of the
soup-pot, and put in the pieces of fowl with two pounds of the lean of
veal, cut into pieces, or with four calf’s feet cut in half. Season
them with a tea-spoonful of salt, a half tea-spoonful of cayenne
pepper, and a dozen blades of mace. Cover them with water, and stew it
slowly for an hour, skimming it well. Then take out the breasts and
wings of the fowls, and having cut off the flesh, chop it fine. Keep
the pot covered, and the veal and the remainder of the fowls still
stewing.

Mix the chopped chicken with the grated crumb of about one quarter of a
loaf of stale bread, (a six cent loaf,) having soaked the crumbs in a
little warm milk. Have ready the yolks of four hard boiled eggs, a
dozen sweet almonds, and half a dozen bitter ones blanched and broken
small. Mix the egg and almonds with the chopped chicken and grated
bread, and pound all in a mortar till it is well incorporated. Strain
the soup from the meat and fowl, and stir this mixture into the liquid,
after it has stewed till reduced to two quarts. Having boiled
separately a quart of cream or rich milk, add it hot to the soup, a
little at a time. Cover it, and let it simmer a few minutes longer.
Then send it to table.

These two soups (the brown and the white) are suited to dinner parties.

MEG MERRILIES’ SOUP.

Take four pounds of venison, or if you cannot procure venison you may
substitute the lean of fresh beef or mutton. Season it with pepper and
salt, put it into a large pot, (break the bones and lay them on the
meat,) pour in four quarts of water, and boil it three hours, skimming
it well. Then strain it, and put it into another pot.

Cut up a hare or a rabbit, a pair of partridges, and a pair of grouse;
or one of each, with a pheasant, a woodcock, or any other game that you
can most easily obtain. Season them and put them into the soup. Add a
dozen small onions, a couple of heads of celery cut small, and half a
dozen sliced potatoes. Let the soup simmer till the game is
sufficiently done, and all the vegetables tender.

This is the soup with which the gipsy, Meg Merrilies, regaled Dominie
Sampson.

When game is used for soup, it must be newly killed, and quite fresh.

VENISON SOUP.

Take four pounds of freshly killed venison cut off from the bones, and
one pound of ham in small slices. Add an onion minced, and black pepper
to your taste. Put only as much water as will cover it, and stew it
gently for an hour, keeping the pot closely covered. Then skim it well,
and pour in a quart of boiling water. Add a head of celery cut into
small pieces, and half a dozen blades of mace. Boil it gently two hours
and a half. Then put in a quarter of a pound of butter, divided into
small pieces and rolled in flour, and half a pint of port or Madeira
wine. Let it boil a quarter of an hour longer, and then send it to
table with the meat in it.

HARE OR RABBIT SOUP.

Take a large newly killed hare, or two rabbits; cut them up and wash
the pieces. Save all the blood, (which adds much to the flavour of the
hare,) and strain it through a sieve. Put the pieces into a soup-pot
with four whole onions stuck with a few cloves, four or five blades of
mace, a head of celery cut small, and a bunch of parsley with a large
sprig of sweet marjoram and one of sweet basil, all tied together. Salt
and cayenne to your taste. Pour in three quarts of water, and stew it
gently an hour and a half. Then put in the strained blood and simmer it
for another hour, at least. Do not let it actually boil, as that will
cause the blood to curdle. Then strain it, and pound half the meat in a
mortar, and stir it into the soup to thicken it, and cut the remainder
of the meat into small mouthfuls. Stir in, at the last, a jill or two
glasses of red wine, and a large table-spoonful of currant jelly. Boil
it slowly a few minutes longer, and then put it into your tureen. It
will be much improved by the addition of about a dozen and a half small
force-meat balls, about the size of a nutmeg. This soup will require
cooking at least four hours.

Partridge, pheasant, or grouse soup may be made in a similar manner.

If you have any clear gravy soup, you may cut up the hare, season it as
above, and put it into a jug or jar well covered, and set in boiling
water till the meat is tender. Then put it into the gravy soup, add the
wine, and let it come to a boil. Send it to table with the pieces of
the hare in the soup.

When hare soup is made in this last manner, omit using the blood.


MULLAGATAWNY SOUP, AS MADE IN INDIA.

Take a quarter of an ounce of China turmeric, the third of an ounce of
cassia, three drachms of black pepper, two drachms of cayenne pepper,
and an ounce of coriander seeds. These must all be pounded fine in a
mortar, and well mixed and sifted. They will make sufficient curry
powder for the following quantity of soup:

Take two large fowls, or three pounds of the lean of veal. Cut the
flesh entirely from the bones in small pieces, and put it into a
stew-pan with two quarts of water. Let it boil slowly for half an hour,
skimming it well. Prepare four large onions, minced and fried in two
ounces of butter. Add to them the curry powder and moisten the whole
with broth from the stew-pan, mixed with a little rice flour. When
thoroughly mixed, stir the seasoning into the soup, and simmer it till
it is as smooth and thick as cream, and till the chicken or veal is
perfectly tender. Then stir into it the juice of a lemon; and five
minutes after take up the soup, with the meat in it, and serve it in
the tureen.

Send to table separately, boiled rice on a hot-water dish to keep it
warm, The rice is to be put into the plates of soup by those who eat
it.

To boil rice for this soup in the East India fashion:—Pick and wash
half a pound in warm water. Put it into a sauce-pan. Pour two quarts of
boiling water over it, and cover the pan closely. Set it in a warm
place by the fire, to cook gradually in the hot water. In an hour pour
off all the water, and setting the pan on hot coals, stir up and toss
the rice with a fork, so as to separate the grains, and to dry without
hardening it. Do not use a spoon, as that will not loosen the grains
sufficiently.

MOCK TURTLE OR CALF’S HEAD SOUP.

This soup will require eight hours to prepare. Take a large calf’s
head, and having cleaned, washed, and soaked it, put it into a pot with
a knuckle of veal, and the hock of a ham, or a few slices of bacon; but
previously cut off and reserve enough of the veal to make two dozen
small force-meat balls. Put the head and the other meat into as much
water as will cover it very well, so that it may not be necessary to
replenish it: this soup being always made very rich. Let it boil slowly
four hours, skimming it carefully. As soon as no more scum rises, put
in six potatoes, and three turnips, all sliced thin; with equal
proportions of parsley, sweet marjoram and sweet basil, chopped fine;
and pepper and salt to your taste.

An hour before you send the meat to table, make about two dozen small
force-meat balls of minced veal and beef-suet in equal quantities,
seasoned with pepper and salt; sweet herbs, grated lemon-peel, and
powdered nutmeg and mace. Add some beaten yolk of egg to make all these
ingredients stick together. Flour the balls very well, and fry them in
butter. Before you put them into the soup, take out the head, and the
other meat. Cut the meat from the head in small pieces, and return it
to the soup. When the soup is nearly done, stir in half a pint of
Madeira. Have ready at least a dozen egg-balls made of the yolks of
hard-boiled eggs, grated or pounded in a mortar, and mixed with a
little flour and sufficient raw yolk of egg to bind them. Make them up
into the form and size of boy’s marbles. Throw them into the soup at
the last, and also squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Let it get another
slow boil, and then put it into the tureen.

We omit a receipt for _real_ turtle soup, as when that very expensive,
complicated, and difficult dish is prepared in a private family, it is
advisable to hire a first-rate cook for the express purpose.

An easy way is to get it ready made, in any quantity you please, from a
turtle-soup house.

OX TAIL SOUP.

Three ox tails will make a large tureen full of soup. Desire the
butcher to divide them at the joints. Rub them with salt, and put them
to soak in warm water, while you prepare the vegetables. Put into a
large pot or stew-pan four onions peeled and quartered, a bunch of
parsley, two sliced carrots, two sliced turnips, and two dozen pepper
corns. Then put in the tails, and pour on three quarts of water.

Cover the pot, and set it on hot coals by the side of the fire. Keep it
gently simmering for about three hours, supplying it well with fresh
hot coals. Skim it carefully. When the meat is quite tender, and falls
from the bones, strain the soup into another pot, and add to it a
spoonful of mushroom catchup, and two spoonfuls of butter rubbed in
flour.

You may thicken it also with the pulp of a dozen onions first fried
soft, and then rubbed through a cullender. After it is thickened, let
it just boil up, and then send it to table, with small squares of
toasted bread in the tureen.

OCHRA SOUP.

Take a large slice of ham (cold boiled ham is best) and two pounds of
the lean of fresh beef; cut all the meat into small pieces. Add a
quarter of a pound of butter slightly melted; twelve large tomatas
pared and cut small; five dozen ochras cut into slices not thicker than
a cent; and salt and cayenne pepper to your taste. Put all these
ingredients into a pot; cover them with boiling water, and let them
stew slowly for an hour. Then add three quarts of _hot_ water, and
increase the heat so as to make the soup boil. Skim it well, and stir
it frequently with a wooden or silver spoon.

Boil it till the tomatas are all to pieces, and the ochras entirely
dissolved. Strain it, and then serve it up with toasted bread cut into
dice, put in after it comes out of the pot.

This soup will be improved by a pint of shelled Lima beans, boiled by
themselves, and put into the tureen just before you send it to table.

BEAN SOUP.

Put two quarts of dried white beans into soak the night before you make
the soup, which should be put on as early in the day as possible.

Take five pounds of the lean of fresh beef—the coarse pieces will do.
Cut them up, and put them into your soup-pot with the bones belonging
to them, (which should be broken to pieces,) and a pound of bacon cut
very small. If you have the remains of a piece of beef that has been
roasted the day before, and so much under-done that the juices remain
in it, you may put it into the pot, and its bones along with it. Season
the meat with pepper and salt, and pour on it six quarts of water. As
soon as it boils take off the scum, and put in the beans (having first
drained them) and a head of celery cut small, or a table-spoonful of
pounded celery-seed. Boil it slowly till the meat is done to shreds,
and the beans all dissolved. Then strain it through a cullender into
the tureen, and put into it small squares of toasted bread with the
crust cut off.

Some prefer it with the beans boiled soft, but not quite dissolved. In
this case, do not strain it; but take out the meat and bones with a
fork before you send it to table.

PEAS SOUP.

Soak two quarts of dried or split peas overnight. In the morning take
three pounds of the lean of fresh beef, and a pound of bacon or pickled
pork. Cut them into pieces, and put them into a large soup-pot with the
peas, (which must first be well drained,) and a table-spoonful of dried
mint rubbed to powder. Add five quarts of water, and boil the soup
gently for three hours, skimming it well, and then put in four heads of
celery cut small, or two table-spoonfuls of pounded celery seed.

It must be boiled till the peas are entirely dissolved, so as to be no
longer distinguishable, and the celery quite soft. Then strain it into
a tureen, and serve it up with toasted bread cut in dice. Omit the
crust of the bread.

Stir it up immediately before it goes to table, as it is apt to settle,
and be thick at the bottom and thin at the top.

GREEN PEAS SOUP.

Take four pounds of knuckle of veal, and a pound of bacon. Cut them to
pieces, and put them into a soup kettle with a sprig of mint and four
quarts of water. Boil it moderately fast, and skim it well. When the
meat is boiled to rags, strain it out, and put to the liquor a quart of
young green peas. Boil them till they are entirely dissolved, and till
they have thickened the soup, and given it a green colour. [Footnote:
You may greatly improve the colour by pounding a handful of spinach in
a mortar, straining the juice, and adding it to the soup about a
quarter of an hour before it has done boiling.]

Have ready two quarts of green peas that have been boiled in another
pot with a sprig of mint, and two or three lumps of loaf sugar, (which
will greatly improve the taste.) After they have boiled in this pot
twenty minutes, take out the mint, put the whole peas into the pot of
soup, and boil all together about ten minutes. Then put it into a
tureen, and send it to table.

Never use hard old green peas for this soup, or for any other purpose.
When they begin to turn yellow, it is time to leave them off for the
season.

Lima bean soup may be made in the same manner.

ASPARAGUS SOUP.

Asparagus soup may be made in a similar manner to that of green peas.
You must have four or five bunches of asparagus. Cut off the green
tops, and put half of them into the soup, after the meat has been
boiled to pieces and strained out. The asparagus must be boiled till
quite dissolved, and till it has given a green colour to the soup. Then
take the remainder of the asparagus tops (which must all this time have
been lying in cold water) and put them into the soup, and let them boil
about twenty minutes. Serve it up with small squares of toast in the
tureen.

You may heighten the green of this soup by adding the juice of a
handful of spinach, pounded in a mortar and strained. Or you may colour
it with the juice of boiled spinach squeezed through a cloth. The
spinach juice should be put in fifteen or ten minutes before you take
up the soup, as a short boiling in it will take off the peculiar taste.

FRIAR’S CHICKEN.

Cut up four pounds of knuckle of veal; season it with white pepper and
salt: put it into a soup-pan and let it boil slowly till the meat drops
from the bone. Then strain it off. Have ready a pair of young fowls
skinned, and cut up as you carve them at table. Season them with white
pepper, salt, and mace. Put them into the soup, add a handful of
chopped parsley, and let them boil. When the pieces of chicken are all
quite tender, have ready four or five eggs well beaten. Stir the egg
into the soup, and take it immediately off the fire lest it curdle.
Serve up the chicken in the soup.

Rabbits may be substituted for fowls.

CATFISH SOUP.

Catfish that have been caught near the middle of the river are much
nicer than those that are taken near the shore where they have access
to impure food. The small white ones are the best. Having cut off their
heads, skin the fish, and clean them, and cut them in three. To twelve
small catfish allow a pound and a half of ham. Cut the ham into small
pieces, or slice it very thin, and scald it two or three times in
boiling water, lest it be too salt. Chop together a bunch of parsley
and some sweet marjoram stripped from the stalks. Put these ingredients
into a soup kettle and season them with pepper: the ham will make it
salt enough. Add a head of celery cut small, or a large table-spoonful
of celery seed tied up in a bit of clear muslin to prevent its
dispersing. Pat in two quarts of water, cover the kettle, and let it
boil slowly till every thing is sufficiently done, and the fish and ham
quite tender. Skim it frequently. Boil in another vessel a quart of
rich milk, in which you have melted a quarter of a pound of butter
divided into small bits and rolled in flour. Pour it hot to the soup,
and stir in at the last the beaten yolks of four eggs. Give it another
boil, just to take off the rawness of the eggs, and then put it into a
tureen, taking out the bag of celery seed before you send the soup to
table, and adding some toasted bread cut into small squares. In making
toast for soap, cut the bread thick, and pare off all the crust.

This soup will be found very fine.

Eel soup may be made in the same manner: chicken soup also.

LOBSTER SOUP.

Have ready a good broth made of a knuckle of veal boiled slowly in as
much water as will cover it, till the meat is reduced to rags. It must
then be well strained.

Having boiled three fine middle-sized lobsters, extract all the meat
from the body and claws. Bruise part of the coral in a mortar, and also
an equal quantity of the meat. Mix them well together. Add mace,
nutmeg, cayenne, and a little grated lemon-peel; and make them up into
force-meat balls, binding the mixture with the yolk of an egg slightly
beaten.

Take three quarts of the veal broth, and put into it the meat of the
lobsters cut into mouthfuls. Boil it together about twenty minutes.
Then thicken it with the remaining coral, (which you must first rub
through a sieve,) and add the force-meat balls, and a little butter
rolled in flour. Simmer it gently for ten minutes, but do not let it
come to a boil, as that will injure the colour. Pour it into a tureen,
and send it to table immediately.

OYSTER SOUP.

To two quarts of oysters add a pint of water, and let them set an hour.
Then take them out of the liquor. Grate and roll fine a dozen crackers.
Put them into the liquor with a large lump of fresh butter. When the
grated biscuit has quite dissolved, add a quart of milk with a grated
nutmeg, and a dozen blades of mace; and, if in season, a head of celery
split fine and cut into small pieces. Season it to your taste with
pepper.

Mix the whole together, and set it in a closely covered vessel over a
slow fire. When it comes to a boil, put in the oysters; and when it
comes to a boil again, they will be sufficiently done.

Before you send it to table put into the tureen some toasted bread cut
into small squares, omitting the crust.

PLAIN OYSTER SOUP.

Take two quarts of large oysters. Strain their liquor into a soup pan;
season it with a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, a tea-spoonful of whole
allspice, the same quantity of whole cloves, and seven or eight blades
of mace. If the oysters are fresh, add a large tea-spoonful of salt; if
they are salt oysters, none is requisite. Set the pan on hot coals, and
boil it slowly (skimming it when necessary) till you find that it is
sufficiently flavoured with the taste of the spice. In the mean time
(having cut out the hard part) chop the oysters fine, and season them
with a powdered nutmeg. Take the liquor from the fire, and strain out
the spice from it. Then return it to the soup pan, and put the chopped
oysters into it, with whatever liquid may have continued about them.
Add a quarter of a pound of butter, divided into little bits and rolled
in flour. Cover the pan, and let it boil hard about five minutes. If
oysters are cooked too much they become tough and tasteless.

CLAM SOUP.

Having put your clams into a pot of boiling water to make them open
easily, take them from the shells, carefully saving the liquor. To the
liquor of a quart of opened clams, allow three quarts of water. Mix the
water with the liquor of the clams and put it into a large pot with a
knuckle of veal, the bone of which should be chopped in four places.
When it has simmered slowly for four hours, put in a large bunch of
sweet herbs, a beaten nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of mace, and a
table-spoonful of whole pepper, but no salt, as the salt of the clam
liquor will be sufficient. Stew it slowly an hour longer, and then
strain it. When you have returned the liquor to the pot, add a quarter
of a pound of butter divided into four and each bit rolled in flour.
Then put in the clams, (having cut them, in pieces,) and let it boil
fifteen minutes. Send it to table with toasted bread in it cut into
dice.

This soup will be greatly improved by the addition of small force-meat
balls. Make them of cold minced veal or chicken, mixed with equal
quantities of chopped suet and sweet marjoram, and a smaller proportion
of hard-boiled egg, grated lemon-peel, and powdered nutmeg. Pound all
the ingredients together in a mortar, adding a little pepper and salt.
Break in a raw egg or two (in proportion to the quantity) to bind the
whole together and prevent it from crumbling to pieces. When thoroughly
mixed, make the force-meat into small balls, and let them boil ten
minutes in the soup, shortly before you send it to table. If you are
obliged to make them of raw veal or raw chicken they must boil longer.

It will be a great improvement to cut up a yam and boil it in the soup.

Oyster soup may be made in this manner.

PLAIN CLAM SOUP.

Take a hundred clams, well washed, and put them into a large pot of
boiling water. This will cause the shells to open. As they open take
them out, and extract the clams, taking care to save the liquor. Mix
with the liquor a quart of water, (or what will be much better, a quart
of milk,) and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Add a large bunch
of parsley tied up, and a large table-spoonful of whole pepper. Put the
liquid into a pot over a moderate fire. Make some little round
dumplings (about the size of a hickory nut) of flour and butter, and
put them into the soup. When it comes to a boil, put in the clams, and
keep them boiling an hour. Take them out before you send the soup to
table.

When the soup is done, take out the bunch of parsley. Have ready some
toasted bread cut into small squares or dice. Put it into the soup
before you send it to table.

You may make oyster soup in a similar manner.

WATER SOUCHY.

Cut up four flounders, or half a dozen perch, two onions, and a bunch
of parsley. Put them into three quarts of water, and boil them till the
fish go entirely to pieces, and dissolve in the water. Then strain the
liquor through a sieve, and put it into a kettle or stew-pan. Have
ready a few more fish with the heads, tails, and fins removed, and the
brown skin taken off. Cut little notches in them, and lay them for a
short time in very cold water. Then put them into the stew-pan with the
liquor or soup-stock of the first fish. Season with pepper, salt, and
mace, and add half a pint of white wine or two table-spoonfuls of
vinegar. Boil it gently for a quarter of an hour, and skim it well.

Provide some parsley roots, cut into slices and boiled till very
tender; and also a quantity of parsley leaves boiled nice and green.
After the fish-pan has boiled moderately fifteen minutes, take it off
the fire, and put in the parsley roots; also a little mushroom catchup.

Take out the fish and lay them in a broad deep dish, or in a tureen,
and then pour on the soup very gently for fear of breaking them. Strew
the green parsley leaves over the top. Have ready plates of bread and
butter, which it is customary to eat with water souchy.

You may omit the wine or vinegar, and flavour the soup just before you
take it from the fire with essence of anchovy, or with any other of the
essences and compound fish-sauces that are in general use.

Water souchy (commonly pronounced _sookey_) is a Dutch soup. It may be
made of any sort of small fish; but flounders and perch are generally
used for it. It is very good made of carp.



FISH.


REMARKS.

In choosing fresh fish, select only those that are thick and firm, with
bright scales and stiff fins; the gills a very lively red, and the eyes
full and prominent. In the summer, as soon as they are brought home,
clean them, and put them in ice till you are ready to cook them; and
even then do not attempt to keep a fresh fish till next day. Mackerel
cannot be cooked too soon, as they spoil more readily than any other
fish.

Oysters in the shell may be kept from a week to a fortnight, by the
following process. Cover them with water, and wash them clean with a
birch broom. Then lay them with the deep or concave part of the shell
undermost, and sprinkle each of them well with salt and Indian meal.
Fill up the tub with cold water. Repeat this every day; first pouring
off the liquid of the day before.

The tub must stand all the time in a cool cellar, and be covered well
with an old blanket, carpeting, or something of the sort.

If carefully attended to, oysters kept in this manner will not only
live but fatten.

It is customary to eat fish only at the commencement of the dinner.
Fish and soup are generally served up alone, before any of the other
dishes appear, and with no vegetable but potatoes; it being considered
a solecism in good taste to accompany them with any of the other
productions of the garden except a little horseradish, parsley, &c. as
garnishing.

In England, and at the most fashionable tables in America, bread only
is eaten with fish. To this rule salt cod is an exception.

TO BOIL FRESH SALMON

Scale and clean the fish, handling it as little as possible, and
cutting it open no more than is absolutely necessary. Place it on the
strainer of a large fish-kettle and fill it up with cold water. Throw
in a handful of salt. Let it boil slowly. The length of time depends on
the size and weight of the fish. You may allow a quarter of an hour to
each pound; but experience alone can determine the exact time. It must
however be thoroughly done, as nothing is more disgusting than fish
that is under-cooked. You may try it with a fork. Skim it well or the
colour will be bad.

The minute it is completely boiled, lift up the strainer and rest it
across the top of the kettle, that the fish may drain, and then, if you
cannot send it to table immediately, cover it with a soft napkin or
flannel several folds double, to keep it firm by absorbing the
moisture.

Send it to table on a hot dish. Garnish with scraped horseradish and
curled parsley. Have ready a small tureen of lobster sauce to accompany
the salmon.

Take what is left of it after dinner, and put it into a deep dish with
a close cover. Having saved some of the water in which the fish was
boiled, take a quart of it, and season it with half an ounce of whole
pepper, and half an ounce of whole allspice, half a pint of the best
vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Boil it; and when cold, pour it
over the fish, and cover it closely again. In a cold place, and set on
ice, it will keep a day or two, and may be eaten at breakfast or
supper.

If much of the salmon has been left, you must proportion a larger
quantity of the pickle.

Boil salmon trout in a similar manner.

TO BAKE FRESH SALMON WHOLE

Having cleaned a small or moderate sized salmon, season it with salt,
pepper, and powdered mace rubbed on it both outside and in. Skewer it
with the tail turned round and put to the mouth. Lay it on a stand or
trivet in a deep dish or pan, and stick it over with bits of butter
rolled in flour. Put it into the oven, and baste it occasionally, while
baking, with its own drippings.

Garnish it with horseradish and sprigs of curled parsley, laid
alternately round the edge of the dish; and send to table with it a
small tureen of lobster sauce.

Salmon trout may be drest in the same manner.

SALMON BAKED IN SLICES.

Take out the bone and cut the flesh into slices. Season them with
cayenne and salt. Melt two ounces of butter that has been rolled in
flour, in a half pint of water, and mix with it two large glasses of
port wine, two table-spoonfuls of catchup, and two anchovies. This
allowance is for a small quantity of salmon. For a large dish you must
proportion the ingredients accordingly. Let the anchovies remain in the
liquid till they are dissolved. Then strain it and pour it over the
slices of salmon. Tie a sheet of buttered paper over the dish, and put
it into the oven.

You may bake trout or carp in the same manner.

SALMON STEAKS

Split the salmon and take out the bone as nicely as possible, without
mangling the flesh. Then cut it into fillets or steaks about an inch
thick. Dry them lightly in a cloth, and dredge them with flour. Take
care not to squeeze or press them. Have ready some clear bright coals,
such as are fit for beef-steaks. Let the gridiron be clean and bright,
and rub the bars with chalk to prevent the fish from sticking. Broil
the slices thoroughly, turning them with steak tongs. Send them to
table hot, wrapped in the folds of a napkin that has been heated. Serve
up with them anchovy, or prawn, or lobster sauce.

Many epicures consider this the best way of cooking salmon.

Another way, perhaps still nicer, is to take some pieces of white paper
and butter them well. Wrap in each a slice of salmon, securing the
paper around them, with a string or pins. Lay them on a gridiron, and
broil them over a clear but moderate fire, till thoroughly done. Take
off the paper, and send the cutlets to table hot, garnished with fried
parsley.

Serve up with them prawn or lobster sauce in a boat.

PICKLED SALMON.

Take a fine fresh salmon, and having cleaned it, cut it into large
pieces, and boil it in salted water as if for eating. Then drain it,
wrap it in a dry cloth, and set it in a cold place till next day. Then
make the pickle, which must be in proportion to the quantity of fish.
To one quart of the water in which the salmon was boiled, allow two
quarts of the best vinegar, one ounce of whole black pepper, one ounce
of whole allspice, and a dozen blades of mace. Boil all these together
in a kettle closely covered to prevent the flavour from evaporating.
When the vinegar thus prepared is quite cold, pour it over the salmon,
and put on the top a table-spoonful of sweet oil, which will make it
keep the longer.

Cover it closely, put it in a dry cool place, and it will be good for
many months.

This is the nicest way of preserving salmon, and is approved by all who
have tried it. Garnish with fennel.

SMOKED SALMON.

Cut the fish up the back; clean, and scale it, and take out the roe,
but do not wash it. Take the bone neatly out. Rub it well inside and
out with a mixture of salt and fine Havanna sugar, in equal quantities,
and a small portion of saltpetre. Cover the fish with a board on which
weights are placed to press it down, and let it lie thus for two days
and two nights. Drain it from the salt, wipe it dry, stretch it open,
and fasten it so with pieces of stick. Then hang it up and smoke it
over a wood fire. It will be smoked sufficiently in five or six days.

When you wish to eat it, cut off slices, soak them awhile in lukewarm
water, and broil them for breakfast.

TO BOIL HALIBUT.

Halibut is seldom cooked whole; a piece weighing from four to six
pounds being generally thought sufficient. Score deeply the skin of the
back, and when you put it into the kettle lay it on the strainer with
the back undermost. Cover it with cold water, and throw in a handful of
salt. Do not let it come to a boil too fast. Skim it carefully, and
when it has boiled hard a few minutes, hang the kettle higher, or
diminish the fire under it, so as to let it simmer for about
twenty-five or thirty minutes. Then drain it, and send it to table,
garnished with alternate heaps of grated horseradish and curled
parsley, and accompanied by a boat of egg-sauce.

What is left of the halibut, you may prepare for the supper-table by
mincing it when cold, and seasoning it with a dressing of salt,
cayenne, sweet oil, hard-boiled yolk of egg, and a large proportion of
vinegar.

HALIBUT CUTLETS.

Cut your halibut into steaks or cutlets about an inch thick. Wipe them
with a dry cloth, and season them with salt and cayenne pepper. Have
ready a pan of yolk of egg well beaten, and a large flat dish of grated
bread crumbs.

Put some fresh lard or clarified beef dripping into a frying pan, and
hold it over a clear fire till it boils. Dip your cutlets into the
beaten egg, and then into the bread crumbs. Fry them of a light brown.
Serve them up hot, with the gravy in the bottom of the dish.

Salmon or any large fish may be fried in the same manner.

Halibut cutlets are very fine cut quite thin and fried in the best
sweet oil, omitting the egg and bread crumbs.

TO BROIL MACKEREL.

Mackerel cannot be eaten in perfection except at the sea-side, where it
can be had immediately out of the water. It loses its flavour in a very
few hours, and spoils sooner than any other fish. Broiling is the best
way of cooking it.

Clean two fine fresh mackerel, and wipe them dry with a cloth. Split
them open and rub them with salt. Spread some very bright coals on the
hearth, and set the gridiron over them well greased. Lay on the
mackerel, and broil them very nicely, taking care not to let them burn.
When one side is quite done, turn them on the other. Lay them, on a hot
dish, and butter and pepper them before they go to table. Garnish them
with lumps or pats of minced paisley mixed with butter, pepper and
salt.

BOILED MACKEREL.

Clean the mackerel well, and let them lie a short time in vinegar and
water. Then put them into the fish-kettle with cold water and a handful
of salt. Boil them slowly. If small, they will be sufficiently cooked
in twenty minutes. When the eye starts and the tail splits they are
done. Take them up immediately on finding them boiled enough. If they
stand any time in the water they will break.

Serve them up with parsley sauce, and garnish the dish with lumps of
minced parsley.

They are eaten with mustard.

For boiling, choose those that have soft roes.

Another way is to put them in cold salt and water, and let them warm
gradually for an hour. Then give them one hard boil, and they will be
done.

TO BOIL SALT CODFISH.

The day previous to that on which it is to be eaten, take the fish
about four o’clock in the afternoon, and put it into a kettle of cold
water. Then place it within the kitchen fire-place, so as to keep it
blood-warm. Next morning at ten, take out the fish, scrub it clean with
a hard brash, and put it into a kettle of fresh cold water, into which
a jill of molasses has been stirred. The molasses will be found an
improvement. Place the kettle again near the fire, until about twenty
minutes before dinner. Then hang it over the fire, and boil it hard a
quarter of an hour, or a little more.

When done, drain it, and cut it into large pieces. Wrap them closely in
a fine napkin and send them to table on a large dish, garnished round
the edge with hard-boiled eggs, either cut in half, or in circular
slices, yolks and whites together. Have ready in a small tureen,
egg-sauce made with, drawn butter, thickened with hard-boiled eggs
chopped fine. Place on one side of the fish a dish of mashed potatoes,
on the other a dish of boiled parsnips.

The most usual way of preparing salt cod for eating when it comes to
table, is (after picking out all the bones) to mince it fine on your
plate, and mix it with mashed potato, parsnip, and egg-sauce; seasoning
it to your taste with cayenne and mustard. What is left may be prepared
for breakfast nest morning. It should be put into a skillet or spider,
which must be well buttered inside, and set over hot coals to warm and
brown. Or it may be made up into small cakes and fried.

You may add to the mixture onions boiled and chopped.

TO BOIL FRESH COD.

Having washed and cleaned the fish, leave out the roe and liver; rub
some salt on the inside, and if the weather is very cold you may keep
it till next day. Put sufficient water in the fish-kettle to cover the
fish very well, and add to the water a large handful of salt. As soon
as the salt is entirely melted put in the fish. A very small codfish
will be done in about twenty minutes, (after the water has boiled;) a
large one will take half an hour, or more. Garnish with the roe and
liver fried, or with scraped horseradish. Send it to table with
oyster-sauce in a boat. Or you may make a sauce by flavouring your
melted butter with a glass of port wine, and an anchovy boned and
minced.

ANOTHER WAY OF BOILING FRESH COD.

Put the fish into cold water with a handful of salt, and let it slowly
and gradually warm for three hours if the cod is large, and two hours
if it is small. Then increase the fire, and boil it hard for a few
minutes only.

BAKED SHAD.

Keep on the head and fins. Make a force-meat or stuffing of grated
bread crumbs, cold boiled ham or bacon minced fine, sweet marjoram,
pepper, salt, and a little powdered mace or cloves. Moisten it with
beaten yolk of egg. Stuff the inside of the fish with it, reserving a
little to rub over the outside, having first rubbed the fish all over
with yolk of egg. Lay the fish in a deep pan, putting its tail to its
mouth. Pour into the bottom of the pan a little water, and add a jill
of port wine, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Bake it well, and
when it is done, send it to table with the gravy poured round it.
Garnish with slices of lemon.

Any fish may be baked in the same manner.

A large fish of ten or twelve pounds weight, will require about two
hours baking.

TO BROIL A SHAD.

Split and wash the shad, and afterwards dry it in a cloth. Season it
with salt and pepper. Have ready a bed of clear bright coals. Grease
your gridiron well, and as soon as it is hot lay the shad upon it, and
broil it for about a. quarter of an hour or more, according to the
thickness. Butter it well, and send it to table. You may serve with it
melted butter in a sauce-boat.

Or you may cut it into three pieces and broil it without splitting. It
will then, of course, require a longer time. If done in this manner,
send it to table with melted butter poured over it.

BOILED ROCK-FISH.

Having cleaned the rock-fish, put it into a fish-kettle with water
enough to cover it well, having first dissolved a handful of salt in
the water. Set it over a moderate fire, and do not let it boil too
fast. Skim it well.

When done, drain it, and put it on a large dish. Have ready a few eggs
boiled hard. Cut them in half, and lay them closely on the back of the
fish in a straight line from the head to the tail. Send with it in a
boat, celery sauce flavoured with a little cayenne.

SEA BASS OR BLACK FISH.

May be boiled and served up in the above manner.

PICKLED ROCK-FISH.

Have ready a large rock-fish. Put on your fish-kettle with a
sufficiency of water to cover the fish amply; spring or pump water is
best. As soon as the water boils, throw in a tea-cup full of salt, and
put in the fish. Boil it gently for about half an hour, skimming it
well. Then take it out, and drain it, laying it slantingly. Reserve a
part of the water in which the fish has been boiled, and season it to
your taste with whole cloves, allspice, and mace. Boil it up to extract
the strength from the spice, and after it has boiled add to it an equal
quantity of the best vinegar. You must have enough of this liquid to
cover the fish again. When the fish is quite cold, cut off the head and
tail, and cut the body into large pieces, extracting the back-bone. Put
it into a stone jar, and when the spiced liquor is cold, pour it on the
fish, cover the jar closely, and set it in a cool place. It will be fit
for use in a day or two, and if well secured from the air, and put into
a cold place will keep a fortnight.

FRIED PERCH.

Having cleaned the fish and dried them, with a cloth, lay them, side by
side, on a board or large dish; sprinkle them with salt, and dredge
them with flour. After a while turn them, and salt and dredge the other
side. Put some lard or fresh beef-dripping into a frying-pan, and hold
it over the fire. When the lard boils, put in the fish and fry them of
a yellowish brown. Send to table with them in a boat, melted butter
flavoured with anchovy.

Flounders or other small fish may be fried in the same manner.

You may know when the lard or dripping is hot enough, by dipping in the
tail of one of the fish. If it becomes crisp immediately, the lard is
in a proper state for frying. Or you may try it with a piece of stale
bread which will become brown directly, if the lard is in order.

There should always be enough of lard to cover the fish entirely. After
they have fried five minutes on one side, turn them and fry them five
minutes on the other. Skim the lard or dripping always before you put
in the fish.

TO FRY TROUT.

Having cleaned the fish, and cut off the fins, dredge them with flour.
Have ready some beaten yolk of egg, and in a separate dish some grated
bread crumbs. Dip each fish into the egg, and then strew them with
bread crumbs. Put some butter or fresh beef-dripping into a frying-pan,
and hold it over the fire till it is boiling hot; then, (having skimmed
it,) put in the fish and fry them.

Prepare some melted butter with a spoonful of mushroom-catchup and a
spoonful of lemon-pickle stirred into it. Send it to table in a
sauce-boat to eat with the fish.

You may fry carp and flounders in the same manner.

TO BOIL TROUT.

Put a handful of salt into the water. When it boils put in the trout.
Boil them fast about twenty minutes, according to their size.

For sauce, send with them melted butter, and put some soy into it; or
flavour it with catchup.

FRIED SEA BASS.

Score the fish on the back with a knife, and season them with salt and
cayenne pepper. Cut some small onions in round slices, and chop fine a
bunch of parsley. Put some butter into a frying-pan over the fire, and
when it is boiling hot lay in the fish. When they are about half done
put the onions and parsley into the pan. Keep turning the fish that the
onions and parsley may adhere to both sides. When quite done, put them
into the dish in which they are to go to table, and garnish the edge of
the dish with hard boiled eggs cut in round slices.

Make in the pan in which they have been fried, a gravy, by adding some
butter rolled in flour, and a small quantity of vinegar. Pour it into
the dish with the fish.

STURGEON CUTLETS OR STEAKS.

This is the most approved way of dressing sturgeon. Carefully take off
the skin, as its oiliness will give the fish a strong and disagreeable
taste when cooked. Cut from the tail-piece slices about half an inch
thick, rub them with salt, and broil them over a clear fire of bright
coals. Butter them, sprinkle them with cayenne pepper, and send them to
table hot, garnished with sliced lemon, as lemon-juice is generally
squeezed over them when eaten.

Another way is to make a seasoning of bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, pepper
and salt. First dip the slices of sturgeon, in beaten yolk of egg, then
cover them with seasoning, wrap them up closely in sheets of white
paper well buttered, broil them over a clear fire, and send them to
table either with or without the papers.

STEWED CARP.

Having cut off the head, tail, and fins, season the carp with salt,
peppers and powdered mace, both, inside and out. Rub the seasoning on
very well, and let them lay in it an hour, Then put them into a
stew-pan with a little parsley shred fine, a whole onion, a little
sweet marjoram, a tea-cup of thick cream or very rich milk, and a lump
of butter rolled in flour. Pour in sufficient water to cover the carp,
and let it stew half an hour.

Perch may be done in the same way.

You may dress a piece of sturgeon in this manner, but you must first
boil it for twenty minutes to extract the oil. Take off the skin before
you proceed to stew the fish.

CHOWDER.

Take a pound or more of salt pork, and having half boiled it, cut it
into slips, and with some of them cover the bottom of a pot. Then strew
on some sliced onion. Have ready a large fresh cod, or an equal
quantity of haddock, tutaug, or any other firm fish. Cut the fish into
large pieces, and lay part of it on the pork and onions. Season it with
pepper. Then cover it with a layer of biscuit, or crackers that have
been previously soaked in milk or water. You may add also a layer of
sliced potatoes.

Next proceed with a second layer of pork, onions, fish, &c. and
continue as before till the pot is nearly full; finishing with soaked
crackers. Pour in about a pint and a half of cold water. Cover it
close, set it on hot coals, and let it simmer about an hour. Then skim
it, and turn it out into a deep dish. Leave the gravy in the pot till
you have thickened it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and some
chopped parsley. Then give it one boil up, and pour it hot into the
dish.

Chowder may be made of clams, first cutting off the hard part.



SHELL FISH


PICKLED OYSTERS.

Take a hundred and fifty fine large oysters, and pick off carefully the
bits of shell that may be sticking to them. Lay the oysters in a deep
dish, and then strain the liquor over them. Put them into an iron
skillet that is lined with porcelain, and add salt to your taste.
Without salt they will not be firm enough. Set the skillet on hot
coals, and allow the oysters to simmer till they are heated all
through, but not till they boil. Then take out the oysters and put them
into a stone jar, leaving the liquor in the skillet. Add to it a pint
of clear strong vinegar, a large tea-spoonful of blades of mace, three
dozen whole cloves, and three dozen whole pepper corns. Let it come to
a boil, and when the oysters are quite cold in the jar, pour the liquor
oh them.

They are fit for use immediately, but are better the next day. In cold
weather they will keep a week.

If you intend sending them a considerable distance you must allow the
oysters to boil, and double the proportions of the pickle and spice.

FRIED OYSTERS.

Get the largest and finest oysters. After they are taken from the shell
wipe each of them quite dry with a cloth. Then beat up in a pan yolk of
egg and milk, (in the proportion of two yolks to half a jill or a wine
glass of milk,) and grate some stale broad grated very fine in a large
flat dish. Cut up at least half a pound of fresh butter in the
frying-pan, and hold it over the fire till it is boiling hot. Dip the
oysters all over lightly in the mixture of egg and milk, and then roll
them up and down in the grated bread, making as many crumbs stick to
them as you can.

Put them into the frying-pan of hot butter, and keep it over a hot
fire. Fry them brown, turning them that they may be equally browned on
both sides. If properly done they will be crisp, and not greasy.

Serve them, dry in a hot dish, and do not pour over them the butter
that may be left in the pan when they are fried.

Oysters are very good taken out of the shells and broiled on a
gridiron.

SCOLLOPED OYSTERS.

Having grated a sufficiency of stale bread, butter a deep dish, and
line the sides and bottom thickly with bread crumbs. Then put in a
layer of seasoned oysters, with a few very small bits of butter on
them. Cover them thickly with crumbs, and put in another layer of
oysters and butter, till the dish is filled up, having a thick layer of
crumbs on the top. Put the dish into an oven, and bake them a very
short time, or they will shrivel. Serve them up hot.

You may bake them in large clam shells, or in the tin scollop shells
made for the purpose. Butter the bottom of each shell; sprinkle it with
bread crumbs; lay on the oysters seasoned with cayenne and nutmeg, and
put a morsel of butter on each. Fill up the shells with a little of the
oyster liquor thickened with bread crumbs, and set them on a gridiron
over coals, browning them afterwards with a red-hot shovel.

STEWED OYSTERS.

Put the oysters into a sieve, and set it on a pan to drain the liquor
from them. Then cut off the hard part, and put the oysters into a
stew-pan with some whole pepper, a few blades of mace, and some grated
nutmeg. Add a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Then pour over
them about half of the liquor, or a little more. Set the pan on hot
coals, and simmer them gently about five minutes. Try one, and if it
tastes raw cook them a little longer. Make some thin slices of toast,
having cut off all the crust. Butter the toast and lay it in the bottom
of a deep dish. Put the oysters upon it with the liquor in which they
were stewed.

The liquor of oysters should never be thickened by stirring in flour.
It spoils the taste, and gives them a sodden and disagreeable
appearance, and is no longer practised by good cooks.

OYSTER FRITTERS.

Have ready some of the finest and largest oysters; drain them from the
liquor and wipe them dry.

Beat six eggs very light, and stir into them gradually six
table-spoonfuls of line sifted flour. Add by degrees a pint and a half
of rich milk and some grated nutmeg, and beat it to a smooth batter.

Make your frying-pan very hot, and put into it a piece of butter or
lard. When it has melted and begins to froth, put in a small ladle-full
of the batter, drop an oyster in the middle of it, and fry it of a
light brown. Send them to table hot.

If you find your batter too thin, so that it spreads too much in the
frying-pan, add a little more flour beaten well into it. If it is too
thick, thin it with some additional milk.

OYSTER PIE.

Make a puff-paste, in the proportion of a pound and a half of fresh
butter to two pounds of sifted flour. Roll it out rather thick, into
two sheets. Butter a deep dish, and line the bottom and sides of it
with paste. Fill it up with crusts of bread for the purpose of
supporting the lid while it is baking, as the oysters will be too much
done if they are cooked in the pie. Cover it with the other sheet of
paste, having first buttered the flat rim of the dish. Notch the edges
of the pie handsomely, or ornament them with leaves of paste which you
may form with tin cutters made for the purpose. Make a little slit in
the middle of the lid, and stick firmly into it a paste tulip or other
flower. Put the dish into a moderate oven, and while the paste is
baking prepare the oysters, which should he large and fresh. Put them
into a stew-pan with half their liquor thickened with yolk of egg
boiled hard and grated, enriched with pieces of butter rolled in bread
crumbs, and seasoned with mace and nutmeg. Stew the oysters five
minutes. When the paste is baked, carefully take off the lid, remove
the pieces of bread, and put in the oysters and gravy. Replace the lid,
and send the pie to table warm.

TO BOIL A LOBSTER.

Put a handful of salt into a large kettle or pot of boiling water. When
the water boils very hard put in the lobster, having first brushed it,
and tied the claws together with a bit of twine. Keep it boiling from
half an hour to an hour in proportion to its size. If boiled too long
the meat will be hard and stringy. When it is done, take it out, lay it
on its claws to drain, and then wipe it dry. Send it to table cold,
with the body and tail split open, and the claws taken off. Lay the
large claws next to the body, and the small ones outside. Garnish with
double parsley.

It is scarcely necessary to mention that the head of a lobster, and
what are called the lady-fingers are not to be eaten.

TO DRESS LOBSTER COLD.

Put a table-spoonful of cold water on a clean plate and with the back
of a wooden spoon mash into it the coral or scarlet meat of the
lobster, adding a salt-spoonful of salt, and about the same quantity of
cayenne. On another part of the plate mix well together with the back
of the spoon two table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and a tea-spoonful of
made mustard. Then mix the whole till they are well incorporated and
perfectly smooth, adding, at the last, three table-spoonfuls of
vinegar.

This quantity of seasoning is for a small lobster. For a large one,
more of course will be required. Many persons add a tea-spoonful of
powdered white sugar, thinking that it gives a mellowness to the whole.

The meat of the body and claws of the lobster must be carefully
extracted from the shell and minced very small When the dressing is
smoothly and thoroughly amalgamated mix the meat with it, and let it be
handed round to the company.

The vinegar from a jar of Indian pickle is by some preferred for
lobster dressing.

You may dress the lobster immediately _before_ you send it to table.
When the dressing and meat are mixed together, pile it in a deep dish,
and smooth it with the back of a spoon. Stick a bunch of the small
claws in the top, and garnish with curled parsley.

Very large lobsters are not the best, the meat being coarse and tough.

STEWED LOBSTER.

Having boiled the lobster, extract the meat from the shell, and cut it
into very small pieces. Season it with a powdered nutmeg, a few blades
of mace, and cayenne and salt to your taste. Mix with it a quarter of a
pound of fresh butter cut small, and two glasses of white wine or of
vinegar. Put it into a stew-pan, and set it on hot coals. Stew it about
twenty minutes, keeping the pan closely covered lest the flavour should
evaporate. Serve it up hot.

If you choose, you can send it to table in the shell, which must first
be nicely cleaned. Strew the meat over with sifted bread-crumbs, and
brown the top with a salamander, or a red hot shovel held over it.

FRICASSEED LOBSTER.

Put the lobster into boiling salt and water, and let it boil according
to its size from a quarter of an hour to half an hour. The intention is
to have it parboiled only, as it is afterwards to be fricasseed.
Extract the meat from the shell, and cut it into small pieces. Season
it with white pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and put it into a stew-pan with
as much cream as will cover it. Keep the lid close; set the pan on hot
coals, and stew it slowly for about as long a time as it was previously
boiled. Just before you take it from the fire, stir in the beaten yolk
of an egg. Send it to table in a small dish placed on a larger one, and
arrange the small claws nicely round it on the large dish.

POTTED LOBSTER.

Parboil the lobster in boiling water well salted. Then pick out all the
meat from the body and claws, and beat it in a mortar with nutmeg,
mace, cayenne, and salt, to your taste. Beat the coral separately. Then
put the pounded meat into a large potting can of block tin with a
cover. Press it down hard, having arranged it in alternate layers of
white meat and coral to give it a marbled or variegated appearance.
Cover it with fresh butter, and put it into a slow oven for half an
hour. When cold, take off the butter and clarify it, by putting it into
a jar, which, must be set in a pan of boiling water. Watch it well, and
when it melts, carefully skim off the buttermilk which will rise to the
top. When no more scum rises, take it off and let it stand for a few
minutes to settle, and then strain it through a sieve.

Put the lobster into small potting-cans, pressing it down very hard.
Pour the clarified butter over it, and secure the covers tightly.

Potted lobster is used to lay between thin slices of bread as
sandwiches. The clarified butter that accompanies it is excellent for
fish sauce.

Prawns and crabs may be potted in a similar manner.

LOBSTER PIE.

Put two middle-sized lobsters into boiling salt and water. When they
are half boiled, take the meat from the shell, cut it into very small
pieces, and put it into a pie dish. Break up the shells, and stew them
in a very little water with half a dozen blades of mace and a
wine-glass of vinegar. Then strain off the liquid. Beat the coral in a
mortar, and thicken the liquid with it. Pour this into the dish of
lobster to make the gravy. Season it with cayenne, salt, and mushroom
catchup, and add bits of butter. Cover it with a lid of paste, made in
the proportion of half a pound of butter to a pound of flour, notched
handsomely, and ornamented with paste leaves. Do not send it to table
till it has cooled.

TO BOIL PRAWNS.

Throw a handful of salt into a pot of boiling water. When it boils very
hard, put in the prawns. Let them boil a quarter of an hour, and when
you take them out lay them on a sieve to drain, and then wipe them on a
dry cloth, and put them aside till quite cold.

Lay a handful of curled parsley in the middle of a dish. Put one prawn
on the top of it, and lay the others, all round, as close as you can,
with the tails outside. Garnish with parsley.

Eat them with salt, cayenne, sweet oil, mustard and vinegar, mixed
together as for lobsters.

CRABS

Crabs are boiled in the same manner, and in serving up may be arranged
like prawns.

HOT CRABS.

Having boiled the crabs, extract all the meat from the shell, cut it
fine, and season it to your taste with nutmeg, salt, and cayenne
pepper. Add a bit of butter, some grated bread crumbs, and sufficient
vinegar to moisten it. Fill the back-shells of the crab with the
mixture; set it before the fire, and brown it by holding a red-hot
shovel or a salamander a little above it.

Cover a large dish, with small slices of dry toast with the crust cut
off. Lay on each slice a shell filled with the crab. The shell of one
crab will contain the meat of two.

COLD CRABS.

Having taken all the meat out of the shells, make a dressing with sweet
oil, salt, cayenne pepper, mustard and vinegar, as for lobster. You may
add to it some hard-boiled yolk of egg, mashed in the oil. Put the
mixture into the back shells of the crabs, and serve it up. Garnish
with the small claws laid nicely round.

SOFT CRABS.

These crabs must be cooked directly, as they will not keep till next
day.

Remove the spongy substance from each side of the crab, and also the
little sand-bag. Put some lard into a pan, and when it is boiling hot,
fry the crabs in it. After you take them out, throw in a handful of
parsley, and let it crisp; but withdraw it before it loses its colour.
Strew it over the crabs when you dish them.

Make the gravy by adding cream or rich milk to the lard, with some
chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Let them all boil together for a few
minutes, and then serve it up in a sauce-boat.

TERRAPINS.

Have ready a pot of boiling water. When it is boiling very hard put in
the terrapins, and let them remain in it till quite dead. Then take
them out, pull off the outer skin and the toe-nails, wash the terrapins
in warm water and boil them again, allowing a tea-spoonful of salt to
each terrapin. When the flesh becomes quite tender so that you can
pinch it off, take them out of the shell, remove the sand-bag, and the
gall, which you must be careful not to break, as it will make the
terrapin so bitter as to be uneatable. Cut up all the other parts of
the inside with the meat, and season it to your taste with black and
cayenne pepper, and salt. Put all into a stew-pan with the juice or
liquor that it has given out in cutting up, but not any water. To every
two terrapins allow a quarter of a pound of butter divided into pieces
and rolled in flour, two glasses of Madeira, and the yolks of two eggs.
The eggs must be beaten, and not stirred in till a moment before it
goes to table. Keep it closely covered. Stew it gently till every thing
is tender, and serve it up hot in a deep dish.

Terrapins, after being boiled by the cook, may be brought to table
plain, with all the condiments separate, that the company may dress
them according to taste.

For this purpose heaters or chafing-dishes must be provided for each
plate.

PICKLED LOBSTER.

Take half a dozen fine lobsters. Put them into boiling salt and water,
and when they are all done, take them out and extract all the meat from
the shells, leaving that of the claws as whole as possible, and cutting
the flesh of the body into large pieces nearly of the same size. Season
a sufficient quantity of vinegar very highly with whole pepper-corns,
whole cloves, and whole blades of mace. Put the pieces of lobster into
a stew-pan, and pour on just sufficient vinegar to keep them well
covered. Set it over a moderate fire; and when it has boiled hard about
five minutes, take out the lobster, and let the pickle boil by itself
for a quarter of an hour. When the pickle and lobster are both cold,
put them together into a broad flat stone jar. Cover it closely, and
set it away in a cool place.

Eat the pickled lobster with oil, mustard, and vinegar, and have bread
and butter with it.



DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING MEAT.


BEEF.

GENERAL REMARKS.

When beef is good, it will have a fine smooth open grain, and it will
feel tender when squeezed or pinched in your fingers. The lean should
be of a bright carnation red, and the fat white rather than yellow—the
suet should be perfectly white. If the lean looks dark or purplish, and
the fat very yellow, do not buy the meat.

See that the butcher has properly jointed the meat before it goes home.
For good tables, the pieces generally roasted are the sirloin and the
fore and middle ribs. In genteel houses other parts are seldom served
up as _roast-beef_. In small families the ribs are the most convenient
pieces. A whole sirloin is too large, except for a numerous company,
but it is the piece most esteemed.

The best beef-steaks are those cut from the ribs, or from the inner
part of the sirloin. All other pieces are, for this purpose,
comparatively hard and tough.

The round is generally corned or salted, and boiled. It is also used
for the dish called beef à-la-mode.

The legs make excellent soup; the head and tail are also used for that
purpose.

The tongue when fresh is never cooked except for mince-pies. Corned or
salted it is seldom liked, as in that state it has a faint sickly taste
that few persons can relish. But when pickled and afterwards smoked
(the only good way of preparing a tongue) it is highly and deservedly
esteemed.

The other pieces of the animal are generally salted and boiled. Or when
fresh they may be used for soup or stews, if not too fat.

If the state of the weather will allow you to keep fresh beef two or
three days, rub it with salt, and wrap it in a cloth.

In summer do not attempt to keep it more than twenty-four hours; and
not then unless you can conveniently lay it in ice, or in a
spring-house.

In winter if the beef is brought from market frozen, do not cook it
that day unless you dine very late, as it will be impossible to get it
sufficiently done—meat that has been frozen requiring double the usual
time. To thaw it, lay it in cold water, which is the only way to
extract the frost without injuring the meat. It should remain in the
water three hours, or more.

TO ROAST BEEF.

The fire should be prepared at least half an hour before the beef is
put down, and it should be large, steady, clear, and bright, with
plenty of fine hot coals at the bottom.

The best apparatus for the purpose is the well-known roaster frequently
called a tin-kitchen.

Wash the meat in cold water, and then wipe it dry, and rub it with
salt. Take care not to run the spit through the best parts of it. It is
customary with some cooks to tie blank paper over the fat, to prevent
it from melting and wasting too fast.

Put it evenly into the roaster, and do not set it too near the fire,
lest the outside of the meat should be burned before the inside is
heated.

Put some nice beef-dripping or some lard into the pan or bottom of the
roaster, and as soon as it melts begin to baste the beef with it;
taking up the liquid with a long spoon, and pouring it over the meat so
as to let it trickle down again, into the pan. Repeat this frequently
while it is roasting; after a while you can baste it with its own fat.
Turn the spit often, so that the meat may be equally done on all sides.

Once or twice draw back the roaster, and improve the fire by clearing
away the ashes, bringing forward the hot coals, and putting on fresh
fuel at the back. Should a coal fall into the dripping-pan take it out
immediately. An allowance of about twenty minutes to each pound of meat
is the time commonly given for roasting; but this rule, like most
others, admits of exceptions according to circumstances. Also, some
persons like their meat very much done; others prefer it rare, as it is
called. In summer, meat will roast in a shorter time than in winter.

When the beef is nearly done, and the steam draws towards the fire,
remove the paper that has covered the fat part, sprinkle on a little
salt, and having basted the meat well with the dripping, pour off
nicely (through the spout of the roaster) all the liquid fat from the
top of the gravy.

Lastly, dredge the meat very lightly with a little flour, and baste it
with fresh butter. This will give it a delicate froth. To the gravy
that is now running from the meat add nothing but a tea-cup of boiling
water. Skim it, and send it to table in a boat. Serve up with the beef
in a small deep plate, scraped horseradish moistened with vinegar.

Fat meat requires more roasting than lean, and meat that has been
frozen will take nearly double the usual time.

Basting the meat continually with flour and water is a bad practice, as
it gives it a coddled parboiled appearance, and diminishes the flavour.

These directions for roasting beef will apply equally to mutton.

Pickles are generally eaten with roast beef. French mustard is an
excellent condiment for it. In carving begin by cutting a slice from
the side.

TO SAVE BEEF-DRIPPING.

Pour off through the spout of the roaster or tin-kitchen, all the fat
from the top of the gravy, after you have done basting the meat with
it. Hold a little sieve under the spout, and strain the dripping
through it into a pan. Set it away in a cool place; and next day when
it is cold and congealed, turn the cake of fat, and scrape with a knife
the sediment from the bottom. Pat the dripping into a jar; cover it
tightly, and set it away in the refrigerator, or in the coldest place
you have. It will be found useful for frying, and for many other
purposes.

Mutton-dripping cannot be used for any sort of cooking, as it
communicates to every thing the taste of tallow.

BAKED BEEF.

This is a plain family dish, and is never provided for company.

Take a nice but not a fat piece of fresh beef. Wash it, rub it with
salt, and place it on a trivet in a deep block tin or iron pan. Pour a
little water into the bottom, and put under and round the trivet a
sufficiency of pared potatoes, either white or sweet ones. Put it into
a hot oven, and let it bake till thoroughly done, basting it frequently
with its own gravy. Then transfer it to a hot dish, and serve up the
potatoes in another. Skim the gravy, and send it to table in a boat.

Or you may boil the potatoes, mash them with milk, and put them into
the bottom of the pan about half an hour before the meat is done
baking. Press down the mashed potatoes hard with the back of a spoon,
score them in cross lines over the top, and let them, brown under the
meat, serving them up laid round it.

Instead of potatoes, you may put in the bottom of the pan what is
called a Yorkshire pudding, to be baked under the meat.

To make this pudding,—stir gradually four table-spoonfuls of flour into
a pint of milk, adding a salt-spoon of salt. Beat three eggs very
light, and mix them gradually with the milk and flour. See that the
batter is not lumpy. Do not put the pudding under the meat at first, as
if baked too long it will be hard and solid. After the meat has baked
till the pan is quite hot and well greased with the drippings, you may
put in the batter; having continued stirring it till the last moment.

If the pudding is so spread over the pan as to be but an inch thick, it
will require about two hours baking, and need not be turned. If it is
thicker than an inch, you must (after it is brown on the top) loosen it
in the pan, by inserting a knife beneath it, and having cut it across
into four pieces, turn them all nicely that the other side may be
equally done. But this pudding is lighter and better if laid so thin as
not to require turning.

When you serve up the beef lay the pieces of pudding round it, to be
eaten with the meat.

Veal may be baked in this manner with potatoes or a pudding. Also fresh
pork.

TO BOIL CORNED OR SALTED BEEF.

The best piece is the round. You may either boil it whole, or divide it
into two, or even three pieces if it is large, taking care that each
piece shall have a portion of the fat. Wash it well; and, if very salt,
soak it in two waters. Skewer it up tightly and in a good compact
shape, wrapping the flap piece firmly round it. Tie it round with broad
strong tape, or with a strip of coarse linen. Put it into a large pot,
and cover it well with water. It will be found a convenience to lay it
on a fish drainer.

Hang it over a moderate fire that it may heat gradually all through.
Carefully take off the scum as it rises, and when no more appears, keep
the pot closely covered, and let it boil slowly and regularly, with the
fire at an equal temperature. Allow three hours and a half to a piece
weighing about twelve pounds, and from that to four or five hours in
proportion to the size. Turn the meat twice in the pot while it is
boiling. Put in some carrots and turnips about two hours after the
meat. Many persons boil cabbage in the same pot with the beef, but it
is a much nicer way to do the greens in a separate vessel, lest they
become saturated with the liquid fat. Cauliflower or brocoli (which are
frequent accompaniments to corned beef) should never be boiled with it.

Wash the cabbage in cold water, removing the outside leaves, and
cutting the stalk close. Examine all the leaves carefully, lest insects
should be lodged among them. If the cabbage is large, divide it into
quarters. Put it into a pot of boiling water with a handful of salt,
and boil it till the stalk is quite tender. Half an hour will generally
be sufficient for a small young cabbage; an hour for a large full-grown
one. Drain it well before you dish it. If boiled separately from the
meat, have ready some melted butter to eat with it.

Should you find the beef under-done, you may reboil it next day;
putting it into boiling-water and letting it simmer for half an hour or
more, according to its size.

Cold corned beef will keep very well for some days wrapped in several
folds of a thick linen cloth, and set away in a cool dry place.

In carving a round of beef, slice it horizontally and very thin. Do not
help any one to the outside pieces, as they are generally too hard and
salt. French mustard is very nice with corned beef. [Footnote: French
mustard is made of the very best mustard powder, diluted with vinegar,
and flavoured with minced tarragon leaves, and a minced clove of
garlic; all mixed with a wooden spoon.]

This receipt will apply equally to any piece of corned beef, except
that being less solid than the round, they will, in proportion to their
weight, require rather less time to boil.

In dishing the meat, remove the wooden skewers and substitute plated or
silver ones.

Many persons think it best (and they are most probably right) to stew
corned beef rather than to boil it. If you intend to stew it, put no
more water in the pot than will barely cover the meat, and keep it
gently simmering over a slow fire for four, five, or six hours,
according to the size of the piece.

TO BROIL BEEF-STEAKS.

The best beef-steaks are those cut from the ribs or from the inside of
the sirloin. All other parts are for this purpose comparatively hard
and tough.

They should be cut about three quarters of an inch thick, and, unless
the beef is remarkably fine and tender, the steaks will be much
improved by beating them on both sides with a steak mallet, or with a
rolling-pin. Do not season them till you take them from the fire.

Have ready on your hearth a fine bed of clear bright coals, entirely
free from smoke and ashes. Set the gridiron over the coals in a
slanting direction, that the meat may not be smoked by the fat dropping
into the fire directly under it. When the gridiron is quite hot, rub
the bars with suet, sprinkle a little salt over the coals, and lay on
the steaks. Turn them frequently with a pair of steak-tongs, or with a
knife and fork. A quarter of an hour is generally sufficient time to
broil & beef-steak. For those who like them under-done or rare, ten or
twelve minutes will be enough.

When the fat blazes and smokes very much as it drips into the fire,
quickly remove the gridiron for a moment, till the blaze has subsided.
After they are browned, cover the upper side of the steaks with an
inverted plate or dish to prevent the flavour from evaporating. Rub a
dish with a shalot or small onion, and place it near the gridiron and
close to the fire, that it may be well heated. In turning the steak
drop the gravy that may be standing on it into this dish, to save it
from being lost. When the steaks are done, sprinkle them with a little
salt and pepper, and lay them in a hot dish, putting on each a piece of
fresh butter. Then, if it is liked, season them with, a very little raw
shalot, minced as finely as possible, and moistened with a spoonful of
water; and stir a tea-spoonful of catchup into the gravy. Send the
steaks to table very hot, in a covered dish. You may serve up with them
onion sauce in a small tureen.

Pickles are frequently eaten with beef-steaks.

Mutton chops may be broiled in the same manner.

TO FRY BEEF-STEAKS.

Beef-steaks for frying should be cut thinner than for broiling. Take
them from the ribs or sirloin, and remove the bone. Beat them to make
them tender. Season them with salt and pepper.

Put some fresh butter, or nice beef-dripping into a frying pan, and
hold it over a clear bright fire till it boils and has done hissing.
Then put in the steaks, and (if you like them) some sliced onions. Fry
them about a quarter of an hour, turning them frequently. Steaks, when
fried, should be thoroughly done. After they are browned, cover them
with a large plate to keep in the juices,

Have ready a hot dish, and when they are done, take out the steaks and
onions and lay them in it with another dish on the top, to keep them
hot while you give the gravy in the pan another boil up over the fire.
You may add to it a spoonful of mushroom catchup. Pour the gravy over
the steakes, and send them to table as hot as possible.

Mutton chops may be fried in this manner.

BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.

For a small pudding take a pound of fresh beef suet. Clear it from the
skin and the stringy fibres, and mince it as finely as possible. Sift
into a large pan two pounds of fine flour, and add the suet gradually,
rubbing it fine with your hands and mixing it thoroughly. Then pour in,
by degrees, enough of cold water to make a stiff dough. Roll it out
into a large even sheet. Have ready about a pound and a half of the
best beef-steak, omitting the bone and fat which should be all cut off.
Divide the steak into small thin pieces, and beat them well to make
them tender. Season them with pepper and salt, and, if convenient, add
some mushrooms. Lay the beef in the middle of the sheet of paste, and
put on the top a bit of butter rolled in flour. Close the paste nicely
over the meat as if you were making a large dumpling. Dredge with flour
a thick square cloth, and tie the pudding up in it, leaving space for
it to swell. Fasten the string very firmly, and stop up with flour the
little gap at the tying-place so that no water can get in. Have ready a
large pot of boiling water. Put the pudding into it, and let it boil
fast three hours or more. Keep up a good fire under it, as if it stops
boiling a minute the crust will be heavy. Have a kettle of boiling
water at the fire to replenish the pot if it wastes too much. Do not
take up the pudding till the moment before it goes to table. Mix some
catchup with the gravy on your plate.

For a large pudding you must have two pounds of suet, three pounds of
flour, and two pounds and a half of meat. It must boil at least five
hours.

All the fat must be removed from the meat before it goes into the
pudding, as the gravy cannot be skimmed when enclosed in the crust.

You may boil in the pudding some potatoes cut into slices.

A pudding of the lean of mutton chops may be made in the same manner;
also of venison steaks.

A BEEF-STEAK PIE.

Make a good paste in the proportion of a pound of butter to two pounds
of sifted flour. Divide it in half, and line with one sheet of it the
bottom and sides of a deep dish, which must first be well buttered.
Have ready two pounds of the best beef-steak, cut thin, and well
beaten; the bone and fat being omitted. Season it with pepper and salt.
Spread a layer of the steak at the bottom of the pie, and on it a layer
of sliced potato, and a few small bits of butter rolled in flour. Then
another layer of meat, potato, &c., till the dish is full. You may
greatly improve the flavour by adding mushrooms, or chopped clams or
oysters, leaving out the hard parts. If you use clams or oysters,
moisten the other ingredients with a little of their liquor. If not,
pour in, at the last, half a pint of cold water, or less if the pie is
small. Cover the pie with the other sheet of paste as a lid, and notch
the edges handsomely, having reserved a little of the paste to make a
flower or tulip to stick in the slit at the top. Bake it in a quick
oven an hour and a quarter, or longer, in proportion to its size. Send
it to table hot.

You may make a similar pie of mutton chops, or veal cutlets, or venison
steaks, always leaving out the bone and fat.

Many persons in making pies stew the meat slowly in a little water till
about half done, and they then put it with its gravy into the paste and
finish by baking. In this case add no water to the pie, as there will
be already sufficient liquid If you half-stew the meat, do the potatoes
with it.

A-LA-MODE BEEF.

Take the bone out of a round of fresh beef, and beat the meat well all
over to make it tender. Chop and mix together equal quantities of sweet
marjoram and sweet basil, the leaves picked from the stalks and rubbed
fine. Chop also some small onions or shalots, and some parsley; the
marrow from the bone of the beef; and a quarter of a pound, or more of
suet. Add two penny rolls of stale bread grated; and pepper, salt, and
nutmeg to your taste. Mix all these ingredients well, and bind them
together with the beaten yolks of four eggs. Fill with this seasoning
the place from whence you took out the bone; and rub what is left of it
all over the outside of the meat. You must, of course, proportion the
quantity of stuffing to the size of the round of beef. Fasten it well
with skewers, and tie it round firmly with a piece of tape, so as to
keep it compact and in good shape. It is best to prepare the meat the
day before it is to be cooked.

Cover the bottom of a stew-pan with slices of bacon. Lay the beef upon
them, and cover the top of the meat with more slices of bacon. Place
round it four large onions, four carrots, and four turnips, all cut in
thick slices. Pour in from half a pint to a pint of water, and if
convenient, add two calves’ feet cut in half. Cover the pan closely,
set it in an oven and let it bake for at least six hours; or seven or
eight, according to the size.

When it is thoroughly done, take out the beef and lay it on a dish with
the vegetables round it. Remove the bacon and calves’ feet, and (having
skimmed the fat from the gravy carefully) strain it into a small
sauce-pan; set it on hot coals, and stir into it a tea-cupful of port
wine, and the same quantity of pickled mushrooms. Let it just come to a
boil, and then send it to table in a sauce-tureen.

If the beef is to be eaten cold, you may ornament it as follows:— Glaze
it all over with beaten white of egg. Then cover it with a coat of
boiled potato grated finely. Have ready some slices of cold boiled
carrot, and also of beet-root. Cut them into the form of stars or
flowers, and arrange them handsomely over the top of the meat by
sticking them on the grated potato. In the centre place a large bunch
of double parsley, interspersed with flowers cut out of raw turnips,
beets, and carrots, somewhat in imitation of white and red roses, and
marygolds. Fix the flowers on wooden skewers concealed with parsley.

Cold à-la-mode beef prepared in this manner will at a little distance
look like a large iced cake decorated with sugar flowers.

You may dress a fillet of veal according to this receipt. Of course it
will require less time to stew.

TO STEW BEEF.

Take a good piece of fresh beef. It must not be too fat. Wash it, rub
it with salt, and put it into a pot with barely sufficient water to
cover it. Set it over a slow fire, and after it has stewed an hour, put
in some potatoes pared and cut in half, and some parsnips, scraped and
split. Let them stew with the beef till quite tender. Turn the meat
several times in the pot. When all is done, serve up the meat and
vegetables together, and the gravy in a boat, having first skimmed it.

This is a good family dish.

You may add turnips (pared and sliced) to the other vegetables.

Fresh pork may be stewed in this manner, or with sweet potatoes.


TO STEW A ROUND OF BEEF.

Trim off some pieces from a round of fresh beef—take out the bone and
break it. Put the bone and the trimmings into a pan with some cold
water, and add an onion, a carrot, and a turnip all cut in pieces, and
a bunch, of sweet herbs. Simmer them for an hour, and having skimmed it
well, strain off the liquid. Season the meat highly with what is called
kitchen pepper, that is, a mixture, in equal quantities, of black or
white pepper, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg, all finely
powdered. Fasten it with skewers, and tie it firmly round with tape.
Lay skewers in the bottom of the stew-pan; place the beef upon them,
and then pour over it the gravy you have prepared from the bone and
trimmings. Simmer it about an hour and a half, and then turn the meat
over, and add to it three carrots, three turnips, and two onions all
sliced, and a glass of tarragon vinegar. Keep the lid close, except
when you are skimming off the fat. Let the meat stew till it is
thoroughly done and tender throughout. The time will depend on the size
of the round. It may require from five or six to eight hours.

Just before you take it up, stir into the gravy a table-spoonful or two
of mushroom catchup, a little made mustard, and a piece of butter
rolled in flour.

Send it to table hot, with the gravy poured round it.

ANOTHER WAY TO STEW A ROUND OF BEEF,

Take a round of fresh beef (or the half of one if it is very large) and
remove the bone. The day before you cook it, lay it in a pickle made of
equal proportions of water and vinegar with salt to your taste. Next
morning take it out of the pickle, put it into a large pot or stew-pan,
and just cover it with water. Put in with it two or three large onion a
few cloves, a little whole black pepper, and a large glass of port or
claret. If it is a whole round of beef allow two glasses of wine. Stew
it slowly for at least four hours or more, in proportion to its size.
It must be thoroughly done, and tender all through. An hour before you
send it to table take the meat out of the pot, and pour the gravy into
a pan. Put a large lump of butter into the pot, dredge the beef with
flour, and return it to the pot to brown, turning it often to prevent
its burning. Or it will be better to put it into a Dutch oven. Cover
the lid with hot coals, renewing them as they go out. Take the gravy
that you poured from the meat, and skim off all the fat. Put it into a
sauce-pan, and mix with it a little butter rolled in flour, and add
some more cloves and wine. Give it a boil up. If it is not well
browned, burn some sugar on a hot shovel, and stir it in.

If you like it stuffed, have ready when you take the meat out of the
pickle, a force-meat of grated bread crumbs, sweet herbs, butter,
spice, pepper and salt, and minced parsley, mixed with beaten yolk of
egg. Fill with this the opening from whence you took the bone, and bind
a tape firmly round the meat.

BEEF BOUILLI.

Take part of a round of fresh beef (or if you prefer it a piece of the
flank or brisket) and rub it with salt. Place skewers in the bottom of
the stew-pot, and lay the meat upon them with barely water enough to
cover it. To enrich the gravy you may add the necks and other trimmings
of whatever poultry you may happen to have; also the root of a tongue,
if convenient. Cover the pot, and set it over a quick fire. When it
boils and the scum has risen, skim it well, and then diminish the fire
so that the meat shall only simmer; or you may set the pot on hot
coals. Then put in four or five carrots sliced thin, a head of celery
cut up, and four or fire sliced turnips. Add a bunch of sweet herbs,
and a small table-spoonful of black pepper-corns tied in a thin muslin
rag. Let it stew slowly for four or fire hours, and then add a dozen
very small onions roasted and peeled, and a large table-spoonful of
capers or nasturtians. You may, if you choose, stick a clove in each
onion. Simmer it half an hour longer, then take up the meat, and
place-it in a dish, laying the vegetables round it. Skim and strain the
gravy; season it with catchup, and made mustard, and serve it up in a
boat. Mutton may be cooked in this manner.

HASHED BEEF.

Take some roast beef that has been very much under-done, and having cut
off the fat and skin, put the trimmings with the bones broken up into a
stew-pan with two large onions sliced, a few sliced potatoes, and a
bunch of sweet herbs. Add about a pint of warm water, or broth if you
have it. This is to make the gravy. Cover it closely, and let it simmer
for about an hour. Then skim and strain it, carefully removing every
particle of fat.

Take another stew-pot, and melt in it a piece of butter, about the size
of a large walnut. When it has melted, shake in a spoonful of flour.
Stir it a few minutes, and then add to it the strained gravy. Let it
come to a boil, and then put to it a table-spoonful of catchup, and the
beef cut either in thin small slices or in mouthfuls. Let it simmer
from five to ten minutes, but do not allow it to boil, lest (having
been cooked already) it should become tasteless and insipid. Serve it
up in a deep dish with thin slices of toast cut into triangular or
pointed pieces, the crust omitted. Dip the toast in the gravy, and lay
the pieces in regular order round the sides of the dish.

You may hash mutton or veal in the same manner, adding sliced carrots,
turnips, potatoes, or any vegetables you please. Tomatas are an
improvement.

To hash cold meat is an economical way of using it; but there is little
or no nutriment in it after being twice cooked, and the natural flavour
is much impaired by the process.

Hashed meat would always be much better if the slices were cut from the
joint or large piece as soon as it leaves the table, and soaked in the
gravy till next day.

BEEF CAKES.

Take some cold roast beef that has been under-done, and mince it very
fine. Mix with it grated bread crumbs, and a little chopped onion and
parsley. Season it with pepper and salt, and moisten it with some
beef-dripping and a little walnut or onion pickle. Some scraped cold
tongue or ham will be found an improvement. Make it into broad flat
cakes, and spread a coat of mashed potato thinly on the top and bottom
of each. Lay a small bit of butter on the top of every cake, and set
them in an oven to warm and brown.

Beef cakes are frequently a breakfast dish.

Any other cold fresh meat may be prepared in the same manner.

Cold roast beef may be cut into slices, seasoned with salt and pepper,
broiled a few minutes over a clear fire, and served up hot with a
little butter spread on them.

TO ROAST A BEEF’S HEART.

Cut open the heart, and (having removed the ventricles) soak it in cold
water to free it from the blood, Parboil it about ten minutes. Prepare,
a force-meat of grated bread crumbs, butter or minced suet, sweet
marjoram and parsley chopped fine, a little grated lemon-peel, nutmeg,
pepper, and salt to your taste, and some yolk of egg to bind the
ingredients. Stuff the heart with the force-meat, and secure the
opening by tying a string around it. Put it on a spit, and roast it
till it is tender throughout.

Add to the gravy a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a glass of red
wine. Serve up the heart very hot in a covered dish. It chills
immediately.

Eat currant jelly with it.

Boiled beef’s heart is frequently used in mince pies.

TO STEW A BEEF’S HEART.

Clean the heart, and cut it lengthways into large pieces. Put them into
a pot with a little salt and pepper, and cover them with cold water.
Parboil them for a quarter of an hour, carefully skimming off the blood
that rises to the top. Then take them out, cut them, into mouthfuls,
and having strained the liquid, return them to it, adding a head or two
of chopped celery, a few sliced onions, a dozen potatoes pared and
quartered, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Season with whole
pepper, and a few cloves if you like. Let it stew slowly till all the
pieces of heart and the vegetables are quite tender.

You may stew a beef’s kidney in the same manner.

The heart and liver of a calf make a good dish cooked as above.


TO DRESS BEEF KIDNEY.

Having soaked a fresh kidney in cold water and dried it in a cloth, cut
it into mouthfuls, and then mince it fine. Dust it with flour. Put some
butter into a stew-pan over a moderate fire, and when it boils put in
the minced kidney. When you have browned it in the butter, sprinkle on
a little salt and cayenne pepper, and pour in a very little boiling
water. Add a glass of champagne or other wine, or a large tea-spoonful
of mushroom catchup, or of walnut pickle. Cover the pan closely, and
let it stew till the kidney is tender. Send it to table hot in a
covered dish. It is eaten generally at breakfast.

TO BOIL TRIPE.

Wash it well in warm water, and trim it nicely, taking off all the fat.
Cut it into small pieces, and put it on to boil five hours before
dinner, in water enough to cover it very well. After it has boiled four
hours, pour off the water, season the tripe with pepper and salt, and
put it into a pot with milk and water mixed in equal quantities. Boil
it an hour in the milk and water.

Boil in a sauce-pan ten or a dozen onions. When they are quite soft,
drain them in a cullender, and mash them. Wipe out your sauce-pan and
put them on again, with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and a
wine-glass of cream or milk. Let them boil up, and add them to the
tripe just before you send it to table. Eat it with pepper, vinegar,
and mustard.

TRIPE AND OYSTERS.

Having boiled the tripe in milk and water, for four or five hours till
it is quite tender, gut it up into small pieces. Put it into a stew-pan
with just milk enough to cover it, and a few blades of mace. Let it
stew about five minutes, and then put in the oysters, adding a large
piece of butter rolled-in flour, and salt and cayenne pepper to your
taste. Let it stew five minutes longer, and then send it to table in a
tureen; first skimming off whatever fat may float on the surface.

TO FRY TRIPE.

Boil the tripe the day before, till it is quite tender, which it will
not be in less than four or five hours. Then cover it and set it away.
Next day cut it into long slips, and dip each piece into beaten yolk of
egg, and afterwards roll them in grated bread crumbs. Have ready in a
frying-pan over the fire, some good beef-dripping. When it is boiling
hot put in the tripe, and fry it about ten minutes, till of a light
brown.

You may serve it up with onion sauce.

Boiled tripe that has been left from the dinner of the preceding day
may be fried in this manner.

PEPPER POT.

Take four pounds of tripe, and four ox feet. Put them into a large pot
with as much water as will cover them, some whole pepper, and a little
salt. Hang them over the fire early in the morning. Let them boil
slowly, keeping the pot closely covered. When the tripe is quite
tender, and the ox feet boiled to pieces, take them out, and skim the
liquid and strain it. Then cut the tripe into small pieces; put it back
into the pot, and pour the soup or liquor over it. Have ready some
sweet herbs chopped fine, some sliced onions, and some sliced potatoes.
Make some small dumplings with flour and batter. Season the vegetables
well with pepper and salt, and put them into the pot. Have ready a
kettle of boiling water, and pour on as much as will keep the
ingredients covered while boiling, but take care not to weaken the
taste by putting too much water. Add a large piece of butter rolled in
flour, and lastly put in the dumplings. Let it boil till all the things
are thoroughly done, and then serve it up in the tureen.

TO BOIL A SMOKED TONGUE.

In buying dried tongues, choose those that are thick and plump, and
that have the smoothest skins. They are the most likely to be young and
tender.

A smoked tongue should soak in cold water at least all night. One that
is very hard and dry will require twenty-four hours’ soaking. When you
boil it put it into a pot full of cold water. Set it over a slow fire
that it may heat gradually for an hour before it comes to a boil. Then
keep it simmering from three and a half to four hours, according to its
size and age. Probe it with a fork, and do not take it up till it is
tender throughout. Send it to table with mashed potato laid round it,
and garnish with parsley. Do not split it in half when you dish it, as
is the practice with some cooks. Cutting it lengthways spoils the
flavour, and renders it comparatively insipid.

If you wish to serve up the tongue very handsomely, rub it with yolk of
egg after you take it from the pot, and strew over it grated bread
crumbs; baste it with butter, and set it before the fire till it
becomes of a light brown. Cover the root (which is always an unsightly
object) with thick sprigs of double parsley; and (instead of mashed
potato) lay slices of currant jelly all round the tongue.

TO BOIL A SALTED OR PICKLED TONGUE.

Put it into boiling water, and let it boil three hours or more,
according to its size. When you take it out peel and trim it, and send
it to table surrounded with mashed potato, and garnished with sliced
carrot.

TO CORN BEEF.

Wash the beef well, after it has lain awhile in cold water. Then drain
and examine it, take out all the kernels, and rub it plentifully with
salt. It will imbibe the salt more readily after being washed. In cold
weather warm the salt by placing it before the fire. This will cause it
to penetrate the meat more thoroughly.

In summer do not attempt to corn any beef that has not been fresh
killed, and even then it will not keep more than a day and a half or
two days. Wash and dry it, and rub a great deal of salt well into it.
Cover it carefully, and keep it in a cold dry cellar.

Pork is corned in the same manner.

TO PICKLE BEEF OR TONGUES.

The beef must be fresh killed, and of the best kind. You must wipe
every piece well, to dry it from the blood and moisture. To fifty
pounds of meat allow two pounds and a quarter of coarse salt, two
pounds and a quarter of fine salt, one ounce and a half of saltpetre,
one pound and a half of brown sugar, and one quart of molasses. Mix all
these ingredients well together, boil and skim it for about twenty
minutes, and when no more scum rises, take it from the fire. Have ready
the beef in a large tub, or in a barrel; pour the brine gradually upon
it with a ladle, and as it cools rub it well into every part of the
meat. A molasses hogshead sawed in two is a good receptacle for pickled
meat. Cover it well with a thick cloth, and look at it frequently,
skimming off whatever may float on the top, and basting the meat with
the brine. In about a fortnight the beef will be fit for use.

Tongues may be put into the same cask with the beef, one or two at a
time, as you procure them from the butcher. None of them will be ready
for smoking in less than six weeks; but they had best remain in pickle
two or three months. They should not be sent to the smoke-house later
than March. If you do them at home, they will require three weeks’
smoking over a wood fire. Hang them with the root or large end upwards.
When done, sew up each tongue tightly in coarse linen, and hang them up
in a dark dry cellar.

Pickled tongues without smoking are seldom liked.

The last of October is a good time for putting meat into pickle. If the
weather is too warm or too cold, it will not take the salt well.

In the course of the winter the pickle may probably require a second
boiling with additional ingredients.

Half an ounce of pearl-ash added to the other articles will make the
meat more tender, but many persons thinks it injures the taste.

The meat must always be kept completely immersed in the brine. To
effect this a heavy board should be laid upon it.

DRIED OR SMOKED BEEF.

The best part for this purpose is the round, which you must desire the
butcher to cut into four pieces. Wash the meat and dry it well in a
cloth. Grind or beat to powder an equal quantity of cloves and
allspice, and having mixed them together, rub them well into the beef
with your hand. The spice will be found a great improvement both to the
taste and smell of the meat. Have ready a pickle made precisely as that
in the preceding article. Boil and skim it, and (the meat having been
thoroughly rubbed all over with the spice) pour on the pickle, as
before directed. Keep the beef in the pickle at least six weeks, and
then smoke it about three weeks.

Smoked beef is brought on the tea-table either shaved into thin chips
without cooking, or chipped and fried with a little butter in a
skillet, and served up hot.

This receipt for dried or smoked beef will answer equally well for
venison ham, which is also used as a relish at the tea-table.

Mutton hams may be prepared in the same way.

POTTED BEEF.

Take a good piece of a round of beef, and cut off all the fat. Rub the
lean well with salt, and let it lie two days. Then put it into a jar,
and add to it a little water in the proportion of half a pint to three
pounds of meat. Cover the jar as closely as possible, (the best cover
will be a coarse paste or dough) and set it in a slow oven, or in a
vessel of boiling water for about four hours. Then drain off all the
gravy and set the meat before the fire that all the moisture may be
drawn out. Pull or cut it to pieces and pound it for a long time in a
mortar with pepper, allspice, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and oiled fresh
butter, adding these ingredients gradually, and moistening it with a
little of the gravy. You must pound it to a fine paste, or till it
becomes of the consistence of cream, cheese.

Put it into potting cans, and cover it an inch thick with fresh butter
that has been melted, skimmed, and strained. Tie a leather over each
pot, and keep them closely covered. Set them in a dry place.

Game and poultry may be potted in this manner



VEAL.


GENERAL REMARKS.

The fore-quarter of a calf comprises the neck, breast, and shoulder:
the hind-quarter consists of the loin, fillet, and knuckle. Separate
dishes are made of the head, heart, liver, and sweet-bread. The flesh
of good veal is firm and dry, and the joints stiff. The lean is of a
very light delicate red, and the fat quite white. In buying the head
see that the eyes look full, plump, and lively; if they are dull and
sunk the calf has been killed too long. In buying calves’ feet for
jelly or soup, endeavour to get those that have been singed only and
not skinned; as a great deal of gelatinous substance is contained in
the skin. Veal should always be thoroughly cooked, and never brought to
table rare or under-done, like beef or mutton. The least redness in the
meat or gravy is disgusting.

Veal suet may be used as a substitute for that of beef; also
veal-dripping.

TO ROAST A LOIN OF VEAL.

The loin is the best part of the calf. It is always roasted. See that
your fire is clear and hot, and broad enough to brown both ends. Cover
the fat of the kidney and the back with paper to prevent it from
scorching. A large loin of veal will require _at least_ four hours and
a half to roast it sufficiently. At first set the roaster at a
tolerable distance from the fire that the meat may heat gradually in
the beginning; afterwards place it nearer. Put a little salt and water
into the dripping-pan and baste the meat with it till the gravy begins
to drop. Then baste with the gravy. When the meat is nearly done, move
it close to the fire, dredge it with a very little flour, and baste it
with butter. Skim the fat from the gravy, which should be thickened by
shaking in a very small quantify of flour. Put it into a small
sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals. Let it just come to a boil, and
then send it to table in a boat. If the gravy is not in sufficient
quantity, add to it about half a jill or a large wine-glass of boiling
water.

In carving a loin of veal help every one to a piece of the kidney as
far as it will go.

TO ROAST A BREAST OF VEAL.

A breast of veal will require about three hours and a half to roast. In
preparing it for the spit, cover it with the caul, and skewer the
sweet-bread to the back. Take off the caul when the meat is nearly
done. The breast, being comparatively tough and coarse, is less
esteemed than the loin and the fillet.

TO ROAST A FILLET OF VEAL.

Take out the bone, and secure with skewers the fat flap to the outside
of the meat. Prepare a stuffing of fresh butter or suet minced fine,
and an equal quantity of grated bread-crumbs, a large table-spoonful of
grated lemon-peel, a table-spoonful of sweet marjoram chopped or rubbed
to powder, a nutmeg grated, and a little pepper and salt, with a sprig
of chopped parsley. Mix all these ingredients with beaten yolk of egg,
and stuff the place from whence the bone was taken. Make deep cuts or
incisions all over the top of the veal, and fill them with some of the
stuffing. You may stick into each hole an inch of fat ham or salt pork,
cut very thin.

Having papered the fat, spit the veal and put it into the roaster,
keeping it at first not too near the fire. Put a little salt and water
into the dripping-pan, and for awhile baste the meat with it. Then
baste it with its own gravy. A fillet of veal will require four hours
roasting. As it proceeds, place it nearer to the fire. Half an hour
before it is done, remove the paper, and baste the meat with butter,
having first dredged it very lightly with flour. Having skimmed the
gravy, mix some thin melted butter with it.

If convenient, you may in making the stuffing, use a large proportion
of chopped mushrooms that have been preserved in sweet oil, or of
chopped pickled oysters. Cold ham shred fine will improve it.

You may stuff a fillet of veal entirely with sausage meat.

To accompany a fillet of veal, the usual dish is boiled ham or bacon.

A shoulder of veal may be stuffed and roasted in a similar manner.

TO STEW A BREAST OF VEAL.

Divide the breast into pieces according to the position of the bones.
Put them into a stew-pan with a few slices of ham, some whole pepper, a
bunch of parsley, and a large onion quartered. Add sufficient water to
keep it from burning, and let it stew slowly till the meat is quite
tender. Then put to it a quart or more of green peas that have boiled
twenty minutes in another pot, and a piece of butter rolled in flour.
Let all stew together a quarter of an hour longer. Serve it up, with
the veal in the middle, the peas round it, and the ham laid on the
peas.

You may stew a breast of veal with tomatas.

TO STEW A FILLET OF VEAL.

Take a fillet of veal, rub it with salt, and then with a sharp knife
make deep incisions all over the surface, the bottom as well as the top
and sides. Make a stuffing of grated stale bread, butter, chopped sweet
marjoram, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper and salt, mixed up with
beaten yolk of egg to bind and give it consistency. Fill the holes or
incisions with the stuffing, pressing it down well with your fingers.
Reserve some of the stuffing to rub all over the outside of the meat.
Have ready some very thin slices of cold boiled ham, the fatter the
better. Cover the veal with them, fastening them on with skewers. Put
it into a pot, and stew it slowly in a very little water, just enough
to cover it. It will take at least five hours to stew; or more, in
proportion to its size. When done, take off the ham, and lay it round
the veal in a dish.

You may stew with it a quart or three pints of young green peas, put in
about an hour before dinner; add to them a little butter and pepper
while they are stewing. Serve them up in the dish with the veal, laying
the slices of ham upon them.

If you omit the ham, stew the veal entirely in lard.

TO STEW A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

Lay four wooden skewers across the bottom of your stew-pan, and place
the meat upon them; having first carefully washed it, and rubbed it
with salt. Add a table-spoonful of whole pepper, the leaves from a
bunch of sweet marjoram, a bunch of parsley leaves chopped, two onions
peeled and sliced, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour in two
quarts of water. Cover it closely, and after it has come to a boil,
lessen the fire, and let the meat only simmer for two hours or more.
Before you serve it up, pour the liquid over it.

This dish will be greatly improved by stewing with it a few slices of
ham, or the remains of a cold ham.

Veal when simply boiled is too insipid. To stew it is much better.

VEAL CUTLETS.

The best cutlets are those taken from the leg or fillet. Cut them about
half an inch thick, and as large as the palm of your hand. Season them
with pepper and salt. Grate some stale bread, and rub it through a
cullender, adding to it chopped sweet marjoram, grated lemon-peel, and
some powdered mace or nutmeg. Spread the mixture on a large flat dish.
Have ready in a pan some beaten egg. First dip each cutlet into the
egg, and then into the seasoning on the dish, seeing that a sufficient
quantity adheres to both sides of the meat. Melt in your frying-pan,
over a quick fire, some beef-dripping, lard, or fresh butter, and when
it boils lay your cutlets in it, and fry them thoroughly; turning them
on both sides, and taking care that they do not burn. Place them in a
covered dish near the fire, while you finish the gravy in the pan, by
first skimming it, and then shaking in a little flour and stirring it
round. Pour the gravy hot round the cutlets, and garnish with little
bunches of curled parsley.

You may mix with the bread crumbs a little saffron.

VEAL STEAKS.

Cut a neck of veal into thin steaks, and beat them to make them tender.
For seasoning, mix together some finely chopped onion sprinkled with
pepper and salt, and a little chopped parsley. Add some butter, and put
it with the parsley and onion into a small sauce-pan, and set it on hot
coals to stew till brown. In the mean, time, put the steaks on a hot
gridiron (the bars of which have been rubbed with suet) and broil them
well, over a bed of bright clear coals. When sufficiently done on one
side turn them on the other. After the last turning, cover each steak
with some of the seasoning from the sauce-pan, and let all broil
together till thoroughly done.

Instead of the onions and parsley, you may season the veal steaks with
chopped mushrooms, or with chopped oysters, browned in butter.

Have ready a gravy made of the scraps and trimmings of the veal,
seasoned with pepper and salt, and boiled in a little hot water in the
same sauce-pan in which the parsley and onions have been previously
stewed. Strain the gravy when it has boiled long enough, and flavour it
with catchup.

MINCED VEAL.

Take some cold veal, cut it into slices, and mince it very finely with
a chopping-knife. Season it to your taste with pepper, salt, sweet
marjoram rubbed fine, grated lemon-peel and nutmeg. Put the bones and
trimmings into a sauce-pan with a little water, and simmer them over
hot coals to extract the gravy from them. Then put the minced veal into
a stew-pan, strain the gravy over it, add a piece of butter rolled in
flour, and a little milk or cream. Let it all simmer together till
thoroughly warmed, but do not allow it to boil lest the meat having
been once cooked already, should become tasteless. When you serve it
up, have ready some three-cornered pieces of bread toasted and
buttered; place them all round the inside of the dish.

Or you may cover the mince with a thick layer of grated bread,
moistened with a little butter, and browned on the top with a
salamander, or a red hot shovel.

VEAL PATTIES.

Mince very fine a pound of the lean of cold roast veal, and half a
pound of cold boiled ham, (fat and lean equally mixed.) Put it into a
stew-pan with three ounces of butter divided into bits and rolled in
flour, a jill of cream, and a jill of veal gravy. Season it to your
taste with cayenne pepper and nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and
lemon-juice. Set the pan on hot coals, and let the ingredients simmer
till well warmed, stirring them well to prevent their burning.

Have ready baked some small shells of puff-paste. Fill them with the
mixture, and eat the patties either warm or cold.

VEAL PIE.

Take two pounds of veal cut from the loin, fillet, or the best end of
the neck. Remove the bone, fat, and skin, and put them into a sauce-pan
with half a pint of water to stew for the gravy. Make a good paste,
allowing a pound of butter to two pounds of flour. Divide it into two
pieces, roll it out rather thick and cover with one piece the sides and
bottom of a deep dish. Put in a layer of veal, seasoned with pepper and
salt, then a layer of cold ham sliced thin, then more veal, more ham,
and so on till the dish is full; interspersing the meat with yolks of
eggs boiled hard. If you can procure some small button mushrooms they
will be found an improvement. Pour in, at the last, the gravy you have
drawn from the trimmings, and put on the lid of the pie, notching the
edge handsomely, and ornamenting the centre with a flower made of
paste. Bake the pie at least two hours and a half.

You may make a very plain veal pie simply of veal chops, sliced onions,
and potatoes pared and quartered. Season with pepper and salt, and fill
up the dish with water.

CALF’S HEAD DREST PLAIN

Wash the head in warm water. Then lay it in clean hot water and let it
soak awhile. This will blanch it. Take out the brains and the black
part of the eyes. Tie the head in a cloth, and put it into a large
fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water, and add some salt to throw up
the scum, which must be taken off as it rises. Let the head boil gently
about three hours.

Put eight or ten sage leaves, and as much parsley, into a small
sauce-pan with a little water, and boil them half an hour. Then chop
them fine, and set them ready on a plate. Wash the brains well in two
warm waters, and then soak them for an hour in a basin of cold water
with a little salt in it. Remove the skin and strings, and then put the
brains into a stew-pan with plenty of cold water, and let them boil
gently for a quarter of an hour, skimming them well. Take them out,
chop them, and mix them with the sage and parsley leaves, two
table-spoonfuls of melted butter, and the yolks of four hard-boiled
eggs, and pepper and salt to your taste. Then put the mixture into a
sauce-pan and set it on coals to warm.

Take up the head when it is sufficiently boiled, score it in diamonds,
brush it all over with beaten egg, and strew it with a mixture of
grated bread-crumbs, and chopped sage and parsley. Stick a few bits of
butter over it, and set it in a Dutch oven to brown. Serve it up with
the brains laid round it. Or you may send to table the brains and the
tongue in a small separate dish, having first trimmed the tongue and
cut off the roots. Have also parsley-sauce in a boat. You may garnish
with very thin small slices of broiled ham, curled up.

If you get a calf’s head with the hair on, sprinkle it all over with
pounded rosin, and dip it into boiling water. This will make the hairs
scrape off easily.

CALF’S HEAD HASHED.

Take a calf’s head and a set of feet, and boil them until tender,
having first removed the brains. Then cut the flesh off the head and
feet in slices from the bone, and put both meat and bones into a
stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, some sliced onions, and pepper
and salt to your taste; also a large piece of butter rolled in flour,
and a little water. After it has stewed awhile slowly till the flavour
is well extracted from the herbs and onions, take out the meat, season
it a little with cayenne pepper, and lay it in a dish. Strain the gravy
in which it was stewed, and stir into it two glasses of madeira, and
the juice and grated peel of a lemon. Having poured some of the gravy
over the meat, lay a piece of butter on the top, set it in an oven and
bake it brown.

In the mean time, having cleaned and washed the brains (skinning them
and removing the strings) parboil them in a sauce-pan, and then make
them into balls with chopped sweet herbs, grated bread-crumbs, grated
lemon-peel, nutmeg, and beaten yolk of egg. Fry them in lard and butter
mixed; and send them to table laid round the meat (which should have
the tongue placed on the top) and garnish with sliced lemon. Warm the
remaining gravy in a small sauce-pan on hot coals, and stir into it the
beaten yolk of an egg a minute before you take it from the fire. Send
it to table in a boat.

CHITTERLINGS OR CALF’S TRIPE.

See that the chitterlings are very nice and white. Wash them, cut them
into pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with pepper and salt to your
taste, and about two quarts of water. Boil them two hours or more. In
the mean time, peel eight or ten white onions, and throw them whole
into a sauce-pan with plenty of water. Boil them slowly till quite
soft; then drain them in a cullender, and mash them. Wipe out your
sauce-pan, and put in the mashed onions with a piece of butter, two
table-spoonfuls of cream or rich milk, some nutmeg, and a very little
salt. Sprinkle in a little flour, set the pan on hot coals (keeping it
well covered) and give it one boil up.

When the chitterlings are quite tender all through, take them up and
drain them. Place in the bottom of a dish a slice or two of buttered
toast with all the crust cut off. Lay the chitterlings on the toast,
and send them to table with the stewed onions in a sauce-boat. When you
take the chitterlings on your plate season them with pepper and
vinegar.

This, if properly prepared, is a very nice dish.

TO FRY CALF’S FEET.

Having first boiled them till tender, cut them in two, and (having
taken out the large bones) season the feet with pepper and salt, and
dredge them well with flour. Strew some chopped parsley or sweet
marjoram over them, and fry them of a light brown in lard or butter.
Serve them up with parsley-sauce.

TO FRY CALF’S LIVER.

Cut the liver into thin slices. Season it with pepper, salt, chopped
sweet herbs, and parsley. Dredge it with flour, and fry it brown in
lard or dripping. See that it is thoroughly done before you send it to
table. Serve it up with its own gravy.

Some slices of cold boiled ham fried with it will be found an
improvement.

You may dress a calf’s heart in the same manner.

LARDED CALF’S LIVER.

Take a calf’s liver and wash it well. Cut into long slips the fat of
some bacon or salt pork, and insert it all through the surface of the
liver by means of a larding-pin. Put the liver into a pot with a
table-spoonful of lard, a little water, and a few tomatas, or some
tomata catchup; adding one large or two small onions minced fine, and
some sweet marjoram leaves rubbed very fine. The sweet marjoram will
crumble more easily if you first dry it before the fire on a plate.

Having put in all these ingredients, set the pot on hot coals in the
corner of the fire-place, and keep it stewing, regularly and slowly,
for four hours. Send the liver to table with the gravy round it.

TO ROAST SWEET-BREADS.

Take four fine sweet-breads, and having trimmed them nicely, parboil
them, and then lay them in a pan of cold water till they become cool.
Afterwards dry them in a cloth. Put some butter into a sauce-pan, set
it on hot coals, and melt and skim it. When it is quite clear, take it
off. Have ready some beaten egg in one dish, and some grated
bread-crumbs in another. Skewer each sweet-bread, and fasten them on a
spit. Then glaze them all over with egg, and sprinkle them with
bread-crumbs. Spread on some of the clarified butter, and then another
coat of crumbs. Roast them before a clear fire, at least a quarter of
an hour. Have ready some nice veal gravy flavoured with lemon-juice,
and pour it round the sweet-breads before you send them to table.

LARDED SWEET-BREADS.

Parboil three or four of the largest sweet-breads you can get. This
should be done as soon as they are brought in, as few things spoil more
rapidly if not cooked at once. When half boiled, lay them in cold
water. Prepare a force-meat of grated bread, lemon-peel, butter, salt,
pepper, and nutmeg mixed with beaten yolk of egg. Cut open the
sweet-breads and stuff them with it, fastening them afterwards with a
skewer, or tying them round with packthread. Have ready some slips of
bacon-fat, and some slips of lemon-peel cut about the thickness of very
small straws. Lard the sweet-breads with them in alternate rows of
bacon and lemon-peel, drawing them through with a larding-needle. Do it
regularly and handsomely. Then put the sweet-breads into a Dutch oven,
and bake them brown. Serve them up with veal gravy flavoured with a
glass of Madeira, and enriched with beaten yolk of egg stirred in at
the last.

MARBLED VEAL.

Having boiled and skinned two fine smoked tongues, cut them to pieces
and pound them to a paste in a mortar, moistening them with plenty of
butter as you proceed. Have ready an equal quantity of the lean of veal
stewed and cut into very small pieces. Pound the veal also in a mortar,
adding butter to it by degrees. The tongue and veal must be kept
separate till both have been pounded. Then fill your potting cans with
lumps of the veal and tongue, pressed down hard, and so placed, that
when cut, the mixture will look variegated or marbled. Close the cans
with veal; again press it down very hard, and finish by pouring on
clarified butter. Cover the cans closely, and keep them in a dry place.
It maybe eaten at tea or supper. Send it to table cut in slices.

You may use it for sandwiches.



MUTTON AND LAMB.


GENERAL REMARKS.

The fore-quarter of a sheep contains the neck, breast, and shoulder;
and the hind-quarter the loin and leg. The two loins together are
called the chine or saddle. The flesh of good mutton is of a bright
red, and a close grain, and the fat firm and quite white. The meat will
feel tender and springy when you squeeze it with your fingers. The vein
in the neck of the fore-quarter should be of a fine blue.

Lamb is always roasted; generally a whole quarter at once. In carving
lamb, the first thing done is to separate the shoulder from the breast,
or the leg from the loin.

If the weather is cold enough to allow it, mutton is more tender after
being kept a few days.

TO ROAST MUTTON.

Mutton should be roasted with a quick brisk fire. Every part should be
trimmed off that cannot be eaten. Wash the meat well. The skin should
be taken off and skewered on again before the meat is put on the spit;
this will make it more juicy. Otherwise tie paper over the fat, having
soaked the twine in water to prevent the string from burning. Put a
little salt and water into the dripping-pan, to baste the meat at
first, then use its own gravy for that purpose. A quarter of an hour
before you think it will be done, take off the skin or paper, dredge
the meat very lightly with flour, and baste it with butter. Skim the
gravy and send it to table in a boat. A leg of mutton will require from
two hours roasting to two hours and a half in proportion to its size. A
chine or saddle, from two hours and a half, to three hours. A shoulder,
from an hour and a half, to two hours. A loin, from an hour and three
quarters, to two hours. A haunch (that is a leg with, part of the loin)
cannot be well roasted in less than four hours.

Always have some currant jelly on the table to eat with roast mutton.
It should also be accompanied by mashed turnips.

Slices cut from a cold leg of mutton that has been under-done, are very
nice broiled or warmed on a gridiron, and sent to the breakfast table
covered with currant jelly.

Pickles are always eaten with mutton.

In preparing a leg of mutton for roasting, you may make deep incisions
in it, and stuff them with chopped oysters, or with a force-meat made
in the usual manner; or with chestnuts parboiled and peeled. The gravy
will be improved by stirring into it a glass of port wine.

TO BOIL MUTTON.

To prepare a leg of mutton for boiling, wash it clean, cut a small
piece off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle. Put it into a pot with
water enough to cover it, and boil it gently for three hours, skimming
it well. Then take it from the fire, and keeping the pot well covered,
let it finish by remaining in the steam for ten or fifteen minutes.
Serve it up with a sauce-boat of melted butter into which a tea-cup
full of capers or nasturtians have been stirred.

Have mashed turnips to eat with it.

A few small onions boiled in the water with the mutton are thought by
some to improve the flavour of the meat. It is much better when
sufficient time is allowed to boil or simmer it slowly.

A neck or a loin of mutton will require also about three hours slow
boiling. These pieces should on no account be sent to table the least
under-done. Serve up with them carrots and whole turnips. You may add a
dish of suet dumplings to eat with the meat, made of finely chopped
suet mixed with double its quantity of flour, and a little cold water.

MUTTON CHOPS.

Take chops or steaks from a loin of mutton, cut off the bone close to
the meat, and trim off the skin, and part of the fat. Beat them to make
them tender, and season them with pepper and salt. Make your gridiron
hot over a bed of clear bright coals; rub the bars with suet, and lay
on the chops. Turn them frequently; and if the fat that falls from them
causes a blaze and smoke, remove the gridiron for a moment till it is
over. When they are thoroughly done, put them into a warm dish and
butter them. Keep them covered till a moment before they are to be
eaten.

When the chops have been turned for the last time, you may strew over
them some finely minced onion moistened with boiling water, and
seasoned with pepper.

Some like them flavoured with mushroom catchup.

Another way of dressing mutton chops is, after trimming them nicely and
seasoning them with pepper and salt, to lay them for awhile in melted
butter. When they have imbibed a sufficient quantity, take them out,
and cover them all over with grated bread-crumbs. Broil them over a
clear fire, and see that the bread does not burn.

CUTLETS À LA MAINTENON.

Cut a neck of mutton into steaks with a bone in each; trim them nicely,
and scrape clean the end of the bone. Flatten them with a rolling pin,
or a meat beetle, and lay them in oiled butter. Make a seasoning of
hard-boiled yolk of egg and sweet-herbs minced small, grated bread,
pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and, if you choose, a little minced onion.
Take the chops out of the butter, and cover them with the seasoning.
Butter some half sheets of white paper, and put the cutlets into them,
so as to be entirely covered, securing the paper with pins or strings;
and twisting them nicely round the bone. Heat your gridiron over some
bright lively coals. Lay the cutlets on it, and broil them about twenty
minutes. The custom of sending them to table in the papers had best be
omitted, as (unless managed by a French cook) these envelopes, after
being on the gridiron, make a very bad appearance.

Serve them up hot, with mushroom sauce in a boat, or with a brown
gravy, flavoured with red wine. You may make the gravy of the bones and
trimmings, stewed in a little water, skimmed well, and strained when
sufficiently stewed. Thicken it with flour browned in a Dutch oven, and
add a glass of red wine.

You may bake these cutlets in a Dutch oven without the papers. Moisten
them frequently with a little oiled butter.

STEWED MUTTON CHOPS.

Cut a loin or neck of mutton into chops, and trim away the fat and
bones. Beat and flatten them. Season them with pepper and salt, and put
them into a stew-pan, with barely sufficient water to cover them, and
some sliced carrots, turnips, onions, potatoes, and a bunch of sweet
herbs, or a few tomatas. Let the whole stew slowly about three hours,
or till every thing is tender. Keep the pan closely covered, except
when you are skimming it.

Send it to table with sippets or three-cornered pieces of toasted
bread, lain all round the dish.

HASHED MUTTON.

Cut into small pieces the lean of some cold mutton that has been
under-done, and season it with pepper and salt. Take the bones and
other trimmings, put them into a sauce-pan with as much water as will
cover them, and some sliced onions, and let them stew till you have
drawn from them a good gravy. Having skimmed it well, strain the gravy
into a stew-pan, and put the mutton into it. Have ready-boiled some
carrots, turnips, potatoes and onions. Slice them, and add them to the
meat and gravy. Set the pan on hot coals, and let it simmer till the
meat is warmed through, but do not allow it to boil, as it has been
once cooked already. Cover the bottom of a dish with slices of buttered
toast. Lay the meat and vegetables upon it, and pour over them the
gravy.

Tomatas will be found an improvement.

If green peas, or Lima beans are in season, you may boil them, and put
them to the hashed mutton; leaving out the other vegetables, or serving
them up separately.

A CASSEROLE OF MUTTON.

Butter a deep dish or mould, and line it with potatoes mashed with milk
or putter, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Fill it with slices of
the lean of cold mutton, or lamb, seasoned also. Cover the whole with
more mashed potatoes. Put it into an oven, and bake it till the meat is
thoroughly warmed, and the potatoes brown. Then carefully turn it out
on a large dish; or you may, if more convenient, send it to table in
the dish it was baked in.

MUTTON HARICO.

Take a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, and fry them brown. Then put
them into a stew-pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three cloves,
a little mace, and pepper and salt to your taste. Cover them with
boiling water, and let them stew slowly for about an hour. Then cut
some carrots and turnips into dice; slice some onions, and cut up a
head of celery; put them all into the stew-pan, and keep it closely
covered except when you are skimming off the fat. Let the whole stew
gently for an hour longer, and then send it to table in a deep dish,
with the gravy about it.

You may make a similar harico of veal steaks, or of beef cut very thin.

STEWED LEG OF MUTTON.

Take a leg of mutton and trim it nicely. Put it into a pot with three
pints of water; or with two pints of water and one quart of gravy drawn
from bones, trimmings, and coarse pieces of meat. Add some slices of
carrots, and a little salt. Stew it slowly three hours. Then put in
small onions, small turnips, tomatas or tomata catchup, and shred or
powdered sweet marjoram to your taste, and let it stew three hours
longer. A large leg will require from first to last from six hours and
a half to seven hours stewing. But though it must be tender and well
done all through, do not allow it to stew to rags. Serve it up with the
vegetables and gravy round it. Have mashed potatoes in another dish.

TO ROAST LAMB.

The best way of cooking lamb is to roast it; when drest otherwise it is
insipid, and not so good as mutton. A hind-quarter of eight pounds will
be done in about two hours; a fore-quarter of ten pounds, in two hours
and a half; a leg of five pounds will take from an hour and a quarter
to an hour and a half; a loin about an hour and a half. Lamb, like veal
and pork, is not eatable unless thoroughly done; no one preferring it
rare, as is frequently the case with beef and mutton.

Wash the meat, wipe it dry, spit it, and cover the fat with paper.
Place it before a clear brisk fire. Baste it at first with a little
salt and water, and then with its own drippings. Remove the paper when
the meat is nearly done, and dredge the lamb with a little flour.
Afterwards baste it with butter. Do not take it off the spit till you
see it drop white gravy.

Prepare some mint sauce by stripping from the stalks the leaves of
young green mint, mincing them very fine, and mixing them with vinegar
and sugar. There must be just sufficient vinegar to moisten the mint,
but not enough to make the sauce liquid. Send it to table in a boat,
and the gravy in another boat. Garnish with sliced lemon.

In carving a quarter of lamb, separate the shoulder from the breast, or
the leg from the ribs, sprinkle a little salt and pepper, and squeeze
on some lemon juice.

It should be accompanied by asparagus, green peas, and lettuce.



PORK, HAM, ETC.


GENERAL REMARKS.

In cutting up pork, you have the spare-rib, shoulder, griskin or chine,
the loin, middlings and leg; the head, feet, heart and liver. On the
spare-rib and chine there is but little meat, and the pieces called
middlings consist almost entirely of fat. The best parts are the loin,
and the leg or hind-quarter. Hogs make the best pork when from two and
a half to four years old. They should be kept up and fed with corn at
least six weeks before they are killed, or their flesh will acquire a
disagreeable taste from the trash and offal which they eat when running
at large. The Portuguese pork, which is fed on chestnuts, is perhaps
the finest in the world.

If the meat is young, the lean will break on being pinched, and the
skin will dent by nipping it with the fingers; the fat will be white,
soft, and pulpy. If the skin or rind is rough, and cannot he nipped, it
is old.

Hams that have short shank-bones, are generally preferred. If you put a
knife under the bone of a ham, and it comes out clean, the meat is
good; but quite the contrary if the knife appears smeared and slimy. In
good bacon the fat is white, and the lean sticks close to the bone; if
it is streaked with yellow, the meat is rusty, and unfit to eat.

Pork in every form should be thoroughly cooked. If the least
under-done, it is disgusting and unwholesome.

TO ROAST A PIG.

Begin your preparations by making the stuffing. Take a sufficient
quantity of grated stale bread, and mix it with sage and sweet marjoram
rubbed fine or powdered; also some grated lemon-peel. Season it with
pepper, salt, powdered nutmeg and mace; mix in butter enough to moisten
it, and some beaten yolk of egg to bind it. Let the whole be very well
incorporated.

The pig should be newly killed, (that morning if possible,) nicely
cleaned, fat, and not too large. Wash it well in cold water, and cut
off the feet close to the joints, leaving some skin all round to fold
over the ends. Take out the liver and heart, and reserve them, with the
feet, to make the gravy. Truss back the legs. Fill the body with the
stuffing (it must be quite full) and then sew it up, or tie it round
with a buttered twine. Put the pig on the spit, and place it before a
clear brisk fire, but not too near lest it scorch. The fire should be
largest at the ends, that the middle of the pig may not be done before
the extremities. If you find the heat too great in the centre, you may
diminish it by placing a flat-iron before the fire. When you first put
it down, wash the pig all over with salt and water; afterwards rub it
frequently with a feather dipped in sweet oil, or with fresh butter
tied in a rag. If you baste it with any thing else, or with its own
dripping, the skin will not be crisp. Take care not to blister or burn
the outside by keeping it too near the fire. A good sized pig will
require at least three hours’ roasting.

Unless a pig is very small it is seldom sent to table whole. Take the
spit from the fire, and place it across a large dish: then, having cut
off the head with a sharp knife, and cut down the back, slip the spit
out. Lay the two halves of the body close together in the dish, and
place half the head on each side. Garnish with sliced lemon.

For the gravy,—take, that from the dripping-pan and skim it well.
Having boiled the heart, liver, and feet, with some minced sage in a
very little water, cut the meat from the feet, and chop it. Chop also
the liver and heart. Put all into a small sauce-pan, adding a little of
the water that they were boiled in, and some bits of butter rolled in
flour. Flavour it with a glass of Madeira, and some grated nutmeg. Give
it a boil up, and send it to table in a gravy-boat.

You may serve up with the pig, apple-sauce, cranberry sauce, or
bread-sauce in a small tureen; or currant jelly.

If you bake the pig instead of roasting it, rub it from time to time
with fresh butter tied in a rag.

TO ROAST A LEG OF PORK.

Take a sharp knife and score the skin across in narrow stripes (you may
cross it again so as to form diamonds) and rub in some powdered sage.
Raise the skin at the knuckle, and put in a stuffing of minced onion
and sage, bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, and beaten yolk of egg. Fasten it
down with a buttered string, or with skewers. You may make deep
incisions in the meat of the large end of the leg, and stuff them also;
pressing in the filling very hard. Rub a little sweet oil all over the
skin with a brush or a goose feather, to make it crisp and of a
handsome brown. Do not place the spit too near the fire, lest the skin
should burn and blister. A leg of pork will require from three to four
hours to roast. Moisten it all the time by brushing it with sweet oil,
or with fresh butter tied in a rag. To baste it with its own dripping
will make the skin tough and hard. Skim the fat carefully from the
gravy, which should be thickened with a little flour.

A roast leg of pork should always be accompanied by apple-sauce, and by
mashed potato and mashed turnips.

TO ROAST A LOIN OF PORK.

Score the skin in narrow strips, and rub it all over with a mixture of
powdered sage leaves, pepper and salt. Have ready a force-meat or
stuffing of minced onions and sage, mixed with a little grated bread
and beaten yolk of egg, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Make deep
incisions between the ribs and fill them with this stuffing. Put it on
the spit before a clear fire and moisten it with butter or sweet oil,
rubbed lightly over it. It will require three hours to roast.

Having skimmed the gravy well, thicken it with a little flour, and
serve it up in a boat. Have ready some apple-sauce to eat with the
pork. Also mashed turnips and mashed potatoes.

You may roast in the same manner, a shoulder, spare-rib, or chine of
pork; seasoning it with sage and onion.

TO ROAST A MIDDLING OR SPRING PIECE OF PORK.

Make a force-meat of grated bread, and minced onion and sage, pepper,
salt, and beaten yolk of egg; mix it well, and spread it all over the
inside of the pork. Then roll up the meat, and with a sharp knife score
it round in circles, rubbing powdered sage into the cuts. Tie a
buttered twine round the roll of meat so as to keep it together in
every direction. Put a hook through one end, and roast the pork before
a clear brisk fire, moistening the skin occasionally with butter. Or
you may bake it in a Dutch oven. It is a good side dish. Thicken the
gravy with a little flour, and flavour it with a glass of wine. Have
currant jelly to eat with it.

It should be delicate young pork.

TO STEW PORK.

Take a nice piece of the fillet or leg of fresh pork; rub it with a
little salt, and score the skin. Put it into a pot with sufficient
water to cover it, and stew it gently for two hours or more, in
proportion to its size. Then put into the same pot a dozen or more
sweet potatoes, scraped, split, and cut in pieces. Let the whole stew
gently together for an hour and a half, or till all is thoroughly done,
skimming it frequently. Serve up all together in a large dish.

This stew will be found very good. For sweet potatoes you may
substitute white ones mixed with sliced turnips, or parsnips scraped or
split.

TO BOIL CORNED PORK.

Take a nice piece of fresh pork, (the leg is the best,) rub it with
salt, and let it lie in the salt two days. Boil it slowly in plenty of
water, skimming it well. When the meat is about half done, you may put
into the same pot a fine cabbage, washed clean and quartered. The pork
and the cabbage should be thoroughly done, and tender throughout. Send
them to table in separate dishes, having drained and squeezed all the
water out of the cabbage. Take off the skin of the pork, and touch the
outside at intervals with spots of cayenne pepper. Eat mustard with it.

Pork is never boiled unless corned or salted.

PICKLED PORK AND PEASE PUDDING.

Soak the pork all night in cold water, and wash and scrape it clean.
Put it on early in the day, as it will take a long time to boil, and
must boil slowly. Skim it frequently. Boil in a separate pot greens or
cabbage to eat with it; also parsnips and potatoes.

Pease pudding is a frequent accompaniment to pickled pork, and is very
generally liked. To make a small pudding, you must have ready a quart
of dried split pease, which have been soaked all night in cold water.
Tie them in a cloth, (leaving room for them to swell,) and boil them
slowly till they are tender. Drain them, and rub them through a
cullender or a sieve into a deep dish; season them with pepper and
salt, and mix with them an ounce of butter, and two beaten eggs. Beat
all well together till thoroughly mixed. Dip a clean cloth in hot
water, sprinkle it with flour, and put the pudding into it. Tie it up
very tightly, leaving a small space between the mixture and the tying,
(as the pudding will still swell a little,) and boil it an hour longer.
Send it to table and eat it with the pork.

You may make a pease pudding in a plain and less delicate way, by
simply seasoning the pease with pepper and salt, (having first soaked
them well,) tying them in a cloth, and putting them to boil in the same
pot with the pork, taking care to make the string very tight, so that
the water may not get in. When all is done, and you turn out the
pudding, cut it into thick slices and lay it round the pork.

Pickled pork is frequently accompanied by dried beans and hominy.


PORK AND BEANS.

Allow two pounds of pickled pork to two quarts of dried beans. If the
meat is very salt put it in soak over night. Put the beans into a pot
with cold water, and let them hang all night over the embers of the
fire, or set them in the chimney corner, that they may warm as well as
soak. Early in the morning rinse them through a cullender. Score the
rind of the pork, (which should not be a very fat piece,) and put the
meat into a clean pot with the beans, which must be seasoned with
pepper. Let them boil slowly together for about two hours, and
carefully remove all the scum and fat that rises to the top. Then take
them out; lay the pork in a tin pan, and cover the meat with the beans,
adding a very little water. Put it into an oven, and bake it four
hours.

This is a homely dish, but is by many persons much liked. It is
customary to bring it to table in the pan in which it is baked.

PORK STEAKS.

Pork steaks or chops should be taken from the neck, or the loin. Cut
them about half an inch thick, remove the skin, trim them neatly, and
beat them. Season them with pepper, salt, and powdered sage-leaves or
sweet marjoram, and broil them over a clear fire till quite done all
through, turning them once. They require much longer broiling than
beef-steaks of mutton chops. When you think they are nearly done, take
up one on a plate and try it. If it is the least red inside, return it
to the gridiron. Have ready a gravy made of the trimmings, or any
coarse pieces of pork stewed in a little water with chopped onions and
sage, and skimmed carefully. When all the essence is extracted, take
out the bits of meat, &c., and serve up the gravy in a boat to eat with
the steaks.

They should be accompanied with apple-sauce.

PORK CUTLETS.

Cut them from the leg, and remove the skin; trim them and beat them,
and sprinkle on salt and pepper. Prepare some beaten egg in a pan; and
on a flat dish a mixture of bread-crumbs, minced onion, and sage. Put
some lard or drippings into a frying-pan over the fire; and when it
boils, put in the cutlets; having dipped every one first in the egg,
and then in the seasoning. Fry them twenty or thirty minutes, turning
them often. After you have taken them out of the frying-pan, skim the
gravy, dredge in a little flour, give it one boil, and then pour it on
the dish round the cutlets.

Have apple-sauce to eat with them.

Pork cutlets prepared in this manner may be stewed instead of being
fried. Add to them a little water, and stew them slowly till thoroughly
done, keeping them closely covered except when you remove the lid to
skim them.

PORK PIE.

Take the lean of a leg or loin of fresh pork, and season it with
pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish,
with, a good paste, made with a pound of butter to two pounds of flour,
and rolled out thick. Put in a layer of pork, and then a layer of
pippin apples, pared, cored, and cut small. Strew over the apples
sufficient sugar to make them very sweet. Then place another layer of
pork, and so on till the dish is full. Pour in half a pint or more of
water, or of white wine. Cover the pie with a thick lid of paste, and
notch and ornament it according to your taste.

Set it in a brisk oven, and bake it well.

HAM PIE.

Cover the sides and bottom of a dish with a good pasts rolled out
thick. Have ready some slices of cold boiled ham, about half an inch
thick, some eggs boiled hard and sliced, and a large young fowl cleaned
and Cut up. Put a layer of ham at the bottom, then the fowl, then the
eggs, and then another layer of ham. Shake on some pepper, and pour in
some water, or what will be much better, some veal gravy. Cover the pie
with a crust, notch and ornament it, and bake it well.

Some mushrooms will greatly improve it.

Small button mushrooms will keep very well in a bottle of sweet
oil—first peeling the skin, and cutting off the stalks.

HAM SANDWICHES

Cut some thin slices of bread very neatly, having slightly buttered
them; and, if you choose, spread on a very little mustard. Have ready
some very thin slices of cold boiled ham, and lay one between two
slices of bread. You may either roll them up, or lay them flat on the
plates. They are used at supper, or at luncheon.

You may substitute for the ham, cold smoked tongue, shred or grated.

BROILED HAM.

Cut the ham into very thin slices, (the thinner the better.) Soak them
in hot water at least half an hour, (a whole hour is better,) to draw
out some of the salt; changing the water several times, and always
pouring it on scalding hot. This process will not only extract the
superfluous salt (which would otherwise ooze out in broiling and remain
sticking about the surface of the meat) but it makes the ham more
tender and mellow. After soaking, dry the slices in a cloth, and then
heat your gridiron, and broil them over a clear fire.

If you have cold boiled ham, it is better for broiling than that which
is raw; and being boiled, will require no soaking before you put it on
the gridiron.

If you wish to serve up eggs with the ham, put some lard into a very
clean frying-pan, and make it boiling hot. Break the eggs separately
into a saucer, that in case a bad one should be among them it may not
mix with the rest. Slip each egg gently into the frying-pan. Do not
turn them while they are frying, but keep pouring some of the hot lard
over them with an iron spoon; this will do them sufficiently on the
upper side. They will be done enough in about three minutes; the white
must retain its transparency so that the yolk will be seen through it.
When done, take them up with a tin slice, drain off the lard, and if
any part of the white is discoloured or ragged, trim it off. Lay a
fried egg upon each slice of the broiled ham, and send them to table
hot.

This is a much nicer way than the common practice of frying the ham or
bacon with the eggs. Some persons broil or fry the ham without eggs,
and send it to table cut into little slips or mouthfuls.

To curl small pieces of ham for garnishing, slice as thin as possible
some that has been boiled or parboiled. The pieces should be about two
inches square. Roll it up round little wooden skewers, and put it into
a cheese toaster, or into a tin oven, and set it before the fire for
eight or ten minutes. When it is done, slip out the skewers.

TO BOIL A HAM.

Hams should always be soaked in water previous to boiling, to draw out
a portion of the salt, and to make them tender. They will soften more
easily if soaked in lukewarm water. If it is a new ham, and not very
salt or hard, you need not put it in water till the evening before you
intend to cook it. An older one will require twenty-four hours’
soaking; and one that is very old and hard should be kept in soak two
or three days, frequently changing the water, which must be soft. Soak
it in a tub, and keep it well covered. When you take it out of the
water to prepare it for boiling, scrape and trim it nicely, and pare
off all the bad looking parts.

Early in the morning put it into a large pot or kettle with plenty of
cold water. Place it over a slow fire that it may heat gradually; it
should not come to a boil in less than an hour and a half, or two
hours. When it boils, quicken the fire, and skim the pot carefully.
Then simmer it gently four or fire hours or more, according to its
size. A ham weighing fifteen pounds should simmer five hours after it
has come to a boil. Keep the pot well skimmed.

When it is done, take it up, carefully strip off the skin, and reserve
it to cover the ham when it is put away cold. Rub the ham all over with
some beaten egg, and strew on it fine bread-raspings shaken through the
lid of a dredging box. Then place it in an oven to brown and crisp, or
on a hot dish set over the pot before the fire. Cut some writing paper
into a handsome fringe, and twist it round the shank-bone before you
send the ham to table. Garnish the edge of the dish with little piles
or spots of rasped crust of bread.

In carving a ham, begin not quite in the centre, but a little nearer to
the hock. Cut the slices very thin. It is not only a most ungenteel
practice to cut ham in thick slices, but it much impairs the flavour.

When you put it away after dinner, skewer on again the skin. This will
make it keep the better.

Ham should always be accompanied by green vegetables, such as
asparagus, peas, beans, spinach, cauliflower, brocoli, &c.

Bacon also should be well soaked before it is cooked; and it should be
boiled very slowly, and for a long time. The greens may be boiled with
the meat. Take care to skim the pot carefully, and to drain and squeeze
the greens very well before you send them to table. If there are yellow
streaks in the lean of the bacon, it is rusty, and unfit to eat.

TO ROAST A HAM.

Take a very fine ham (a Westphalia one if you can procure it) and soak
it in lukewarm water for a day or two, changing the water frequently.
The day before you intend cooking it, take the ham out of the water,
and (having removed the skin) trim it nicely, and pour over it a bottle
of Madeira or sherry. Let it steep till next morning, frequently during
the day washing the wine over it. Put it on the spit in time to allow
at least six hours for slowly roasting it. Baste it continually with
hot water. When it is done, dredge it all over with fine bread-raspings
shaken on through the top of the dredging box; and set it before the
fire to brown.

For gravy, take the wine in which the ham was steeped, and add to it
the essence or juice which flowed from the meat when taken from the
spit. Squeeze in the juice of two lemons. Put it into a sauce-pan, and
boil and skim it. Send it to table in a boat. Cover the shank of the
ham (which should have been sawed short) with bunches of double
parsley, and ornament it with a cluster of flowers cut out with a
penknife from raw carrots, beets, and turnips; and made to imitate
marygolds, and red and white roses.

DIRECTIONS FOR CURING HAM OR BACON.

Ham or bacon, however well cured, will never be good unless the pork of
which it is made has been properly fed. The hogs should be well
fattened on corn, and fed with it about eight weeks, allowing ten
bushels to each hog. They are best for curing when from two to four
years old, and should not weigh more than one hundred and fifty or one
hundred and sixty pounds. The first four weeks they may be fed on mush,
or on Indian meal moistened with water; the remaining four on corn
unground; giving them always as much as they will eat. Soap-suds may be
given to them three or four times a week; or oftener if convenient.

When killed and cut up, begin immediately to salt them. Rub the outside
of each ham with a tea-spoonful of powdered saltpetre, and the inside
with a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Having mixed together brown
sugar and fine salt, in the proportion of a pound and a half of brown
sugar to a quart of salt, rub the pork well with it. This quantity of
sugar and salt will be sufficient for fifty pounds of meat. Have ready
some large tubs, the bottoms sprinkled with salt, and lay the meat in
the tubs with the skin downward. Put plenty of salt between each layer
of meat. After it has lain eight days, take it out and wipe off all the
salt, and wash the tubs. Make a pickle of soft water, equal quantities
of salt and molasses, and a little saltpetre; allowing four ounces of
saltpetre to two quarts of molasses and two quarts of salt, which is
the proportion for fifty pounds of meat. The pickle must be strong
enough to bear up an egg. Boil and skim it; and when it is cold, pour
it over the meat, which must be turned every day and basted with the
pickle. The hams should remain in the pickle at least four weeks; the
shoulders and middlings of the bacon three weeks; and the jowls two
weeks. They should then be taken out and smoked. Having washed off the
pickle, before you smoke the meat, bury it, while wet, in a tub of
bran. This will form a crust over it, and prevent evaporation of the
juices. Let the smoke-house be ready to receive the meat immediately.
Take it out of the tub after it has lain half an hour, and rub the bran
evenly over it. Then hang it up to smoke with the small end downwards.
The smoke-house should be dark and cool, and should stand alone, for
the heat occasioned by an adjoining—building may spoil the meat, or
produce insects. Keep up a good smoke all day, but have no blaze.
Hickory is the best wood for a smoke-house fire, In three or four weeks
the meat will be sufficiently smoked, and fit for use. During the
process it should be occasionally taken down, examined, and hung up
again. The best way of keeping hams is to wrap them in paper, or, to
sew them in coarse cloths (which should be white-washed) and bury them
in a barrel of hickory ashes. The ashes must be frequently changed.

An old ham will require longer to soak, and longer to boil than a new
one.

Tongues may be cured in the above manner.

LIVER PUDDINGS.

Boil some pigs’ livers. When cold, mince them, and season them with
pepper, salt, and some sage and sweet marjoram rubbed fine. You may add
some powdered cloves. Have ready some large skins nicely cleaned, and
fill them with the mixture, tying up the ends securely. Prick them with
a fork to prevent their bursting; put them into hot water, and boil
them slowly for about an hour. They will require no farther cooking
before you eat them. Keep them in stone jars closely covered. They are
eaten cold at breakfast or supper, cut into slices an inch thick or
more; or they may be cut into large pieces, and broiled or fried.

COMMON SAUSAGE-MEAT.

Having cleared it from the skin, sinews, and gristle, take six pounds
of the lean of young fresh pork, and three pounds of the fat, and mince
it all as fine as possible. Take some dried sage, pick off the leaves
and rub them to powder, allowing three tea-spoonfuls to each pound of
meat. Having mixed the fat and lean well together, and seasoned it with
nine tea-spoonfuls of pepper, and the same quantity of salt, strew on
the powdered sage, and mix the whole very well with your hands. Put it
away in a stone jar, packing it down hard; and keep it closely covered.
Set the jar in a cool dry place.

When you wish to use the sausage-meat, make it into flat cakes about an
inch thick and the size of a dollar; dredge them with flour, and fry
them in butter or dripping, over rather a slow fire, till they are well
browned on both sides, and thoroughly done.

Sausages are seldom eaten except at breakfast.

FINE SAUSAGES.

Take some fresh pork, (the leg is best,) and clear it from the skin,
sinews, and gristle. Allow two pounds of fat to three pounds of lean.
Mince it all very fine, and season it with two ounces and a half of
salt, half an ounce of pepper, thirty cloves, and a dozen blades of
mace powdered, three grated, nutmegs, six table-spoonfuls of powdered
sage, and two tea-spoonfuls of powdered rosemary. Mix all well
together. Put it into a stone jar, and press it down very hard. Cover
it closely, and keep it in a dry cool place.

When you use this sausage-meat, mix with it some beaten yolk of egg,
and make it into balls or cakes. Dredge them with flour, and fry them
in butter.

BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.

Take ten pounds of beef, and four pounds of pork; two-thirds of the
meat should be lean, and only one third fat. Chop it very fine, and mix
it well together. Then season it with six ounces of fine salt, one
ounce of black pepper, half an ounce of cayenne, one table-spoonful of
powdered cloves; and one clove or garlic minced very fine.

Have ready some large skins nicely cleaned and prepared, (they should
be beef-skins,) and wash them in salt and vinegar. Fill them with the
above mixture, and secure the ends by tying them with packthread or
fine twine. Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear up an
egg. Put the sausages into it, and let them lie for three weeks,
turning them daily. Then take them out, wipe them dry, hang them up and
smoke them. Before you put them away rub them all over with, sweet oil,

Keep them in ashes. That of vine-twigs is best for them.

You may fry them or not before you eat them.

PORK CHEESE.

Take the heads, tongues, and feet of young fresh pork, or any other
pieces that are convenient. Having removed the skin, boil them till all
the meat is quite tender, and can be easily stripped from the bones.
Then chop it small, and season it with salt and black pepper to your
taste, and if you choose, some beaten cloves. Add sage-leaves and sweet
marjoram, minced fine, or rubbed to powder. Mix the whole very well
together with your hands. Put it into deep pans, with straight sides,
(the shape of a cheese,) press it down hard and closely with a plate
that will fit the pan; putting the under side of the plate next to the
meat, and placing a heavy weight on it. In two or three days it will be
fit for use, and you may turn it out of the pan. Send it to table cut
in slices, and use mustard and vinegar with it. It is generally eaten
at supper or breakfast.

PIG’S FEET AND EARS SOUSED.

Having cleaned them properly, and removed the skin, boil them slowly
till they are quite tender, and then split the feet and put them with
the ears into salt and vinegar, flavoured with a little mace. Cover the
jar closely, and set it away. When you use them, dry each piece well
with a cloth; dip them first in beaten yolk of egg, and then in
bread-crumbs, and fry them nicely in butter or lard. Or you may eat
them cold, just out of the vinegar.

If you intend keeping them some time, you must make a fresh pickle for
them every other day.

TO IMITATE WESTPHALIA HAM.

The very finest pork must be used for these hams. Mix together an equal
quantity of powdered saltpetre and brown sugar, and rub it well into
the hams. Next day make a pickle in sufficient quantity to cover them
very well. The proportions of the ingredients are a pound and a half of
fine salt, half a pound of brown sugar, an ounce of black pepper and an
ounce of cloves pounded to powder, a small bit of sal prunella, and a
quart of stale strong beer or porter. Boil them all together, so as to
make a pickle that will bear up an egg. Pour it boiling hot over the
meat, and let it lie in the pickle two weeks, turning it two or three
times every day, and basting or washing it with the liquid. Then take
out the hams, rub them with bran and smoke them for a fortnight. When
done, keep them in a barrel of wood ashes.

In cooking these hams simmer them slowly for seven or eight hours.

To imitate the shape of the real Westphalia hams, cut some of the meat
off the under side of the thick part, so as to give them a flat
appearance. Do this before you begin to cure them, first loosening the
skin and afterwards sewing it on again.

The ashes in which you keep them must be changed frequently, wiping the
hams when you take them out.

TO GLAZE A COLD HAM.

With a brush or quill feather go all over the ham with beaten yolk of
egg. Then cover it thickly with pounded cracker, made as fine as flour,
or with grated crumbs of stale bread. Lastly go over it with thick
cream. Put it to brown in the oven of a stove, or brown it on the spit
of a tin roaster, set before the fire and turned frequently.

This glazing will be found delicious.



VENISON, ETC.


TO ROAST A SADDLE OR HAUNCH OF VENISON.

Wipe it all over with a sponge dipped in warm water Then rub the skin
with lard or nice dripping. Cover the fat with sheets of paper two
double, buttered, and tied on with packthread that has been soaked to
keep it from burning. Or, what is still better, you may cover the first
sheets of paper with a coarse paste of flour and water rolled out half
an inch thick, and then cover the paste with the second sheets of
paper, securing the whole well with the string to prevent its falling
off. Place the venison on the spit before a strong clear fire, such as
you would have for a sirloin of beef, and let the fire be well kept up
all the time. Put some claret and butter into the dripping-pan and
baste the meat with it frequently. If wrapped in paste, it will not be
done in less than five hours. Half an hour before you take it up,
remove the coverings carefully, place the meat nearer to the fire,
baste it with fresh butter and dredge it very lightly with flour. Send
it to table with fringed white paper wrapped round the bone, and its
own gravy well skimmed. Have currant jelly to eat with it. As venison
chills immediately, the plates should be kept on heaters.

You may make another gravy with a pound and a half of scraps and
trimmings or inferior pieces of venison, put into a sauce-pan with
three pints of water, a few cloves, a few blades of mace, half a
nutmeg; and salt and cayenne to your taste. Boil it down slowly to a
pint. Then skim off the fat, and strain the gravy into a clean
sauce-pan. Add to it half a pint of currant jelly, half a pint of
claret, and near a quarter of a pound of butter divided into bits and
rolled in flour. Send it to table in two small tureens or sauce-boats.
This gravy will be found very fine.

Venison should never be roasted unless very fat. The shoulder is a
roasting piece, and may be done without the paper or paste.

Venison is best when quite fresh; but if it is expedient to keep it a
week before you cook it, wash it well with milk and water, and then dry
it perfectly with cloths till there is not the least damp remaining on
it. Then mix together powdered ginger and pepper, and rub it well over
every part of the meat. Do not, however, attempt to keep it unless the
weather is quite cold.

TO HASH COLD VENISON.

Cut the meat in nice small slices, and put the trimmings and bones into
a sauce-pan with barely water enough to cover them. Let them stew for
an hour. Then strain the liquid into a stew-pan; add to it some bits of
butter rolled in flour, and whatever gravy was left of the venison the
day before. Stir in some currant jelly, and give it a boil up. Then put
in the meat, and keep it over the fire just long enough to warm it
through; but do not allow it to boil, as it has been once cooked
already.

VENISON STEAKS.

Cut them from the neck or haunch. Season them with pepper and salt.
When the gridiron has been well heated over a bed of bright coals,
grease the bars, and lay the steaks upon it. Broil them well, turning
them once, and taking care to save as much of the gravy as possible.
Serve them up with some currant jelly laid on each steak. Have your
plates set on heaters.

VENISON PASTY.

The neck, breast, and shoulder are the parts used for a venison pie or
pasty. Cut the meat into pieces (fat and lean together) and put the
bones and trimmings into a stew-pan with pepper and salt, and water or
veal broth enough to cover it. Simmer it till you have drawn out a good
gravy. Then strain it.

In the mean time make a good rich paste, and roll it rather thick.
Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with one sheet of it, and put
in your meat, having seasoned it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace.
Pour in the gravy which you have prepared from the trimmings, and two
glasses of port or claret, and lay on the top some hits of butter
rolled in flour. Cover the pie with a thick lid of paste, and ornament
it handsomely with leaves and flowers formed with a tin cutter. Bake it
two hours or more, according to its size.

VENISON HAMS.

Venison for hams must be newly killed, and in every respect as good as
possible. Mix together equal quantities of salt and brown sugar, and
rub it well into the hams. Put them into a tub, and let them lie seven
days; turning them and rubbing them daily with the mixture of salt and
sugar. Next mix together saltpetre and common salt, in the proportion
of two ounces of saltpetre to a handful of salt. Rub it well into your
hams, and let them lie a week longer. Then wipe them, rub them with
bran, and smoke them a fortnight over hickory wood. Pack them in wood
ashes.

Venison ham must not be cooked before it is eaten. It is used for the
tea-table, chipped or shred like dried beef, to which it is considered
very superior.

It will not keep as long as other smoked meat.

TO ROAST A KID.

A kid should be cooked the day it is killed, or the day after at
farthest. They are best from three to four months old, and are only
eaten while they live on milk.

Wash the kid well, wipe it dry, and truss it. Stuff the body with a
force-meat of grated bread, butter or suet, sweet herbs, pepper, salt,
nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and beaten egg; and sew it up to keep the
stuffing in its place. Put it on the spit and rub it over with lard, or
sweet oil. Put a little salt and water into the dripping-pan, and baste
the kid first with that, and afterwards with its own gravy. Or you may
make it very nice by basting it with cream. It should roast about three
hours. At the last, transfer the gravy to a small sauce-pan; thicken it
with a little butter rolled in flour, give it a boil up, and send it to
table in a boat. Garnish the kid with lumps of currant jelly laid round
the edge of the dish.

A fawn (which should never be kept more than one day) may be roasted in
the same manner; also, a hare, or a couple of rabbits.

You may send to table, to eat with the kid, a dish of chestnuts boiled
or roasted, and divested of the shells.

TO ROAST A HARE.

If a hare is old do not roast it, but make soup of it. Wash and soak it
in water for an hour, and change the water several times, having made a
little slit in the neck to let out the blood. Take out the heart and
liver, and scald them. Drain, dry, and truss the hare. Make a
force-meat richer and more moist than usual, and add to it the heart
and liver minced fine. Soak the bread-crumbs in a little claret before
you mix them with the other ingredients. Stuff the body of the hare
with this force-meat, and sew it up. Put it on the spit, rub it with
butter, and roast it before a brisk fire. For the first half hour baste
it with butter; and afterwards with cream, or with milk thickened with
beaten yolk of egg. At the last, dredge it lightly with flour. The hare
will require about two hours roasting.

For sauce, take the drippings of the hare mixed with cream or with
claret, and a little lemon-juice, a bit of butter, and some
bread-crumbs. Give it a boil up, and send it to table in a boat.
Garnish the hare with slices of currant jelly laid round it in the
dish.

FRICASSEED RABBITS.

The best way of cooking rabbits is to fricassee them. Take a couple of
fine ones, and cut them up, or disjoint them. Put them into a stew-pan;
season them with cayenne pepper and salt, some chopped parsley, and
some powdered mace. Pour in a pint of warm water (or of veal broth, if
you have it) and stew it over a slow fire till the rabbits are quite
tender; adding (when they are about half done) some bits of butter
rolled in flour. Just before you take it from the fire, enrich the
gravy with a jill or more of thick cream with some nutmeg grated into
it. Stir the gravy well, but take care not to let it boil after the
cream is in, lest it curdle.

Put the pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, and pour the gravy over them.

TO STEW RABBITS.

Having trussed the rabbits, lay them in a pan of warm water for about
fifteen minutes. Then put them into a pot with plenty of water and a
little salt, and stew them slowly for about an hour, or till they are
quite tender. In the mean time, peel and boil in a sauce-pan a dozen
onions. When they are quite tender all through, take them out, and
drain and slice them. Have ready some drawn, butter, prepared by taking
six ounces of butter, (cut into bits and rolled in about three
tea-spoonfuls of flour,) and melting it in a jill of milk. After
shaking it round-over hot coals till it simmers, add to it the onions,
and give it one boil up.

When the rabbits are done stewing lay them on a large dish (having
first cut off their heads, which should not he sent to table) and cover
them all over with the onion-sauce, to which you may add some grated
nutmeg.

TO FRY RABBITS,

Having washed the rabbits well, put them into a pan of cold water, and
let them lie in it two or three hours. Then cut them into joints, dry
them in a cloth, dredge them with flour, strew them with chopped
parsley, and fry them in butter. After you take them out of the
frying-pan, stir a wine-glass of cream into the gravy, or the beaten
yolk of an egg. Do not let it boil, but pour it at once into the dish
with the rabbits.

Rabbits are very good baked in a pie. A boiled or pot-pie may be made
of them.

They may he stuffed with force-meat and roasted, basting them with
butter. Cut off their heads before you send them to table.



POULTRY, GAME, ETC.


GENERAL REMARKS

In buying poultry choose those that are fresh and fat. Half-grown
poultry is comparatively insipid; it is best when full-grown but not
old. Old poultry is tough and hard. An old goose is so tough as to be
frequently uneatable. When poultry is young the skin is thin and
tender, and can be easily tipped by trying it with a pin; the legs are
smooth; the feet moist and limber; and the eyes full and bright. The
body should be thick and the breast fat. The bill and feet of a young
goose are yellow, and have but few hairs on them; when old they are red
and hairy.

Poultry is best when killed overnight, as if cooked too soon
after-killing, it is hard and does not taste well. It is not the custom
in America, as in some parts of Europe, to keep game, or indeed any
sort of eatable, till it begins to taint; all food when inclining to
decomposition being regarded by us with disgust.

When poultry or game is frozen, it should be brought into the kitchen
early in the morning of the day on which it is to be cooked. It may be
thawed by laying it several hours in cold water. If it is not thawed it
will require double the time to cook, and will be tough and tasteless
when done. In drawing poultry be very careful not to break the gall,
lest its disagreeable bitterness should be communicated to the liver.

Poultry should be always scalded in hot water to make the feathers come
out easily. Before they are cooked they should be held for a moment
over the blaze of the fire to singe off the hairs that are about the
skin. The head, neck, and feet should be cut off, and the ends of the
legs skewered in the bodies. A string should be tied tightly round.

TO BOIL A PAIR OF FOWLS.

Make a force-meat in the usual manner, of grated, bread-crumbs, chopped
sweet herbs, butter, pepper, salt, and yolk of egg. Fill the bodies of
the fowls with the stuffing, and tie a string firmly round them. Skewer
the livers and gizzards to the sides, under the wings. Dredge them with
flour, and put them into a pot with just enough of water to cook them;
cover it closely, and put it over a moderate fire. As soon as the scum
rises, take off the pot and skim it. Then cover it again, and boil it
slowly half an hour. Afterwards diminish the fire, and let them stew
slowly till quite tender. An hour altogether is generally sufficient to
boil a pair of fowls, unless they are quite old. By doing them slowly
(rather stewing than boiling) the skin will not break, and they will be
whiter and more tender than if boiled fast.

Serve them up with egg-sauce in a boat.

Young chickens are better for being soaked two hours in skim milk,
previous to boiling. You need not stuff them. Boil or stew them, slowly
in the same manner as large fowls. Three quarters of an hour will cook
them.

Serve them up with parsley-sauce, and garnish with parsley.

Boiled fowls should be accompanied by ham or smoked tongue.

TO ROAST A PAIR. OF FOWLS.

Leave out the livers, gizzards and hearts, to be chopped and put into
the gravy.—Fill the crops and bodies of the fowls with a force-meat,
put them before a clear fire and roast them an hour, basting them with
butter or with clarified dripping.

Having stewed the necks, gizzards, livers, and hearts in a very little
water, strain it and mix it hot with the gravy that has dripped from
the fowls, and which must be first skimmed. Thicken it with a little
browned flour, add to it the livers, hearts, and gizzards chopped
small. Send the fowls to table with the gravy in a boat, and have
cranberry-sauce to eat with them.

BROILED CHICKENS.

Split a pair of chickens down the back, and beat them flat, Wipe the
inside, season them with pepper and salt, and let them, lie while you
prepare some beaten yolk of egg and grated bread-crumbs. Wash the
outside of the chickens all over with the egg, and then strew on the
bread-crumbs. Have ready a hot gridiron over a bed of bright coals. Lay
the chickens on it with the inside downwards, or next the fire. Broil
them about three quarters of an hour, keeping them covered with a
plate. Just before you take them up, lay some small pieces of butter on
them.

In preparing chickens for broiling, you may parboil them about ten
minutes, to ensure their being sufficiently cooked; as it is difficult
to broil the thick parts thoroughly without burning the rest.

FRICASSEED CHICKENS.

Having cut up your chickens, lay them in cold water till all the blood
is drawn out. Then wipe the pieces, season them with pepper and salt,
and dredge them with flour. Fry them in lard or butter; they should be
of a fine brown on both sides. When they are quite done, take them, out
of the frying-pan, cover them up, and set them by the fire to keep
warm. Skim the gravy in the frying-pan and pour into it half a pint of
cream; season it with a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, and thicken it
with, a small bit of butter rolled in flour. Give it a boil, and then
pour it round the chickens, which must he kept hot. Put some lard into
the pan, and fry some parsley in It to lay on the pieces of chicken; it
must be done green and crisp.

To make a white fricassee of chickens, skin them, cut them in pieces,
and having soaked out the blood, season them with salt, pepper, nutmeg
and mace, and strew over them some sweet marjoram shred fine. Put them
into a stew-pan, and pour over them half a pint of cream, or rich
unskimmed milk. Add some butter rolled in Hour, and (if you choose)
some small force-meat balls. Set the stew-pan over hot coals. Keep it
closely covered, and stew or simmer it gently till the chicken is quite
tender, but do not allow it to boil.

You may improve it by a few small slices of cold ham.

CHICKEN CROQUETS AND RISSOLES.

Take some cold chicken, and having; cut the flesh from the bones, mince
it small with a little suet and parsley; adding sweet marjoram and
grated lemon-peel. Season it with pepper, salt and nutmeg, and having
mixed the whole very well pound it to a paste in a marble mortar,
putting in a little at a time, and moistening it frequently with yolk
of egg that has been previously beaten. Then divide it into equal
portions and having floured your hands, make it up in the shape of
pears, sticking the head of a clove into the bottom of each to
represent the blossom end, and the stalk of a clove into the top to
look like the stem. Dip them into beaten yolk of egg, and then into
bread-crumbs grated finely and sifted. Fry them in butter, and when you
take them out of the pan, fry some parsley in it. Having drained the
parsley, cover the bottom of a dish with it, and lay the croquets upon
it. Send it to table as a side dish.

Croquets maybe made of cold sweet-breads, or of cold veal mixed with
ham or tongue.

Rissoles are made of the same ingredients, well mixed, and beaten
smooth in a mortar. Make a fine paste, roll it out, and cut it into
round cakes. Then lay some of the mixture on one half of the cake, and
fold over the other upon it, in the shape of a half-moon. Close and
crimp the edges nicely, and fry the rissoles in butter. They should be
of a light brown on both sides. Drain them and send them to table dry.

BAKED CHICKEN PIE.

Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with a thick paste. Having
cut up your chickens, and seasoned them to your taste, with salt,
pepper, mace and nutmeg, put them in, and lay on the top several pieces
of butter rolled in flour. Fill up the dish about two-thirds with cold
water. Then lay on the top crust, notching it handsomely. Cut a slit in
the top, and stick into it an ornament of paste made in the form of a
tulip. Bake it in a moderate oven.

It will be much improved by the addition of a quarter of a hundred
oysters; or by interspersing the pieces of chicken with slices of cold
boiled ham.

You may add also some yolks of eggs boiled hard.

A duck pie may be made in the same manner. A rabbit pie also.


A POT PIE.

Take a pair of large fine fowls. Cut them up, wash the pieces, and
season them with pepper and salt. Make a good paste in the proportion
of a pound and a half of minced suet to three pounds of flour. Let
there be plenty of paste, as it is always much liked by the eaters of
pot pie. Roll out the paste not very thin, and cut most of it into long
squares. Butter the sides of a pot, and line them with paste nearly to
the top. Lay slices of cold ham at the bottom of the pot, and then the
pieces of fowl, interspersed all through with squares of paste, and
potatoes pared and quartered. Lay a lid of paste all over the top,
leaving a hole in the middle. Pour in about a quart of water, cover the
pot, and boil it slowly but steadily for two hours. Half an hour before
you take it up, put in through the hole in the centre of the crust,
some bits of butter rolled in flour, to thicken the gravy. When done
put the pie on a large dish, and pour the gravy over it.

You may intersperse it all through with cold ham.

A pot pie may be made of ducks, rabbits, squirrels, or venison. Also of
beef-steaks.

CHICKEN CURRY.

Take a pair of fine fowls, and having cut them in pieces, lay them in
salt and water till the seasoning is ready. Take two table-spoonfuls of
powdered ginger, one table-spoonful of fresh turmeric, a tea-spoonful
of ground black pepper; some mace, a few cloves, some cardamom seeds,
and a little cayenne pepper with a small portion of salt. These last
articles according to your taste. Put all into a mortar, and add to
them eight large onions, chopped or cut small. Mix and beat all
together, till the onions, spices, &c. form a paste.

Put the chickens into a pan with sufficient butter rolled in flour, and
fry them till they are brown, but not till quite done. While this is
proceeding, set over the fire a sauce-pan three parts full of water, or
sufficient to cover the chickens when they are ready. As soon as the
water boils, throw in the curry-paste. When the paste has all
dissolved, and is thoroughly mixed with the water, put in the pieces of
chicken to boil, or rather to simmer. When the chicken is quite done,
put it into a large dish, and eat it with boiled rice. The rice may
either be laid round on the same dish, or served up separately.

This is a genuine East India receipt for curry.

Lamb, veal, or rabbits may be curried in the same manner.

_To boil Rice for the Curry._

Pick the rice carefully, to clear it from husks and motes. Then soak it
in cold water for a quarter of an hour, or more. When you are ready to
boil it, pour off the water in which it has soaked. Have ready a pot or
sauce-pan of boiling water, into which you have put a little salt.
Allow two quarts of water to a pound of rice. Sprinkle the rice
gradually into the water. Boil it hard for twenty minutes, then take it
off the fire, and pour off all the water that remains. Set the pot in
the chimney corner with the lid off, while dinner is dishing, that it
may have time to dry. You may toss it up lightly with two forks, to
separate the grains while it is drying, but do not stir it with a
spoon.

A PILAU.

Take a large fine fowl, and cover the breast with slices of fat bacon
or ham, secured by skewers. Put it into a stew-pan with two sliced
onions. Season it to your taste with white pepper and mace. Have ready
a pint of rice that has been well picked, washed, and soaked. Cover the
fowl with it. Put in as much water as will well cover the whole. Stew
it about half an hour, or till the fowl and rice are thoroughly done;
keeping the stew-pan closely covered. Dish it all together, either with
the rice covering the fowl, or laid round it in little heaps.

You may make a pilau of beef or mutton with a larger quantity of rice;
which must not be put in at first, or it will be done too much, the
meat requiring a longer time to stew.

CHICKEN SALAD.

The fowls for this purpose should be young and fine. You may either
boil or roast them. They must be quite cold. Having removed all the
skin and fat, and disjointed the fowls cut the meat from the bones into
very small pieces, not exceeding an inch. Wash and split two large fine
heads of celery, and cut the white part into pieces also about an inch
long; and having mixed the chicken and celery together, put them into a
deep china dish, cover it and set it away.

It is best not to prepare the dressing till just before the salad is to
be eaten, that it may be as fresh as possible. Have ready the yolks of
eight hard-boiled eggs. Put them into a flat dish, and mash them to a
paste with the back of a wooden spoon. Add to the egg a small
tea-spoonful of fine salt, the same quantity of cayenne pepper, half a
jill of made mustard, a jill or a wine-glass and a half of vinegar, and
rather more than two wine-glasses of sweet oil. Mix all these
ingredients thoroughly; stirring them a long time till they are quite
smooth.

The dressing should not be put on till a few minutes before the salad
is sent in; as by lying in it the chicken and celery will become tough
and hard. After you pour it on, mix the whole well together with a
silver fork.

Chicken salad should be accompanied with plates of bread and butter,
and a plate of crackers. It is a supper dish, and is brought in with
terrapin, oysters, &c.

Cold turkey is excellent prepared as above.

An inferior salad may be made with cold fillet of veal, instead of
chickens.

Cold boiled lobster is very fine cut up and drest in this manner, only
substituting for celery, lettuce cut up and mixed with the lobster.

TO ROAST A PAIR OF DUCKS.

After the ducks are drawn, wipe out the inside with a clean cloth, and
prepare your stuffing. Mince very fine some green sage leaves, and
twice their quantity of onion, (which should first be parboiled,) and
add a little butter, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Mix the whole
very well, and fill the crops and bodies of the ducks with it, leaving
a little space for the stuffing to swell. Reserve the livers, gizzards,
and hearts to put in the gravy. Tie the bodies of the ducks firmly
round with strings, (which should be wetted or buttered to keep them
from burning,) and put them on the spit before a clear brisk fire.
Baste them first with a little salt and water, and then with their own
gravy, dredging them lightly with flour at the last. They will be done
in about an hour. After boiling the livers, gizzards and hearts, chop
them, and put them into the gravy; having first skimmed it, and
thickened it with a little browned flour.

Send to table with the ducks a small tureen of onion-sauce with chopped
sage leaves in it. Accompany them also with stewed cranberries and
green peas.

Canvas-back ducks are roasted in the same manner, omitting the
stuffing. They will generally be done enough in three quarters of an
hour. Send currant jelly to table with them, and have heaters to place
under the plates. Add to the gravy a little cayenne, and a large
wine-glass of claret or port.

Other wild ducks and teal may be roasted in about half an hour. Before
cooking soak them all night in salt and water, to draw out whatever
fishy or sedgy taste they may happen to have, and which may otherwise
render them uneatable. Then early in the morning put them in fresh
water (without salt,) changing it several times before you spit them.

You may serve up with wild ducks, &c. orange-sauce, which is made by
boiling in a little water two large sweet oranges cut into slices,
having first removed the rind. When the pulp is all dissolved, strain
and press it through a sieve, and add to it the juice of two more
oranges, and a little sugar. Send it to table either warm or cold.

STEWED DUCK.

Half roast a large duck. Cut it up, and put it into a stew-pan with a
pint of beef-gravy, or dripping of roast-beef. Have ready two boiled
onions, half a handful of sage leaves, and two leaves of mint, all
chopped very fine and seasoned with pepper and salt. Lay these
ingredients over the duck. Stew it slowly for a quarter of an hour.
Then put in a quart of young green peas. Cover it closely, and simmer
it half an hour longer, till the peas are quite soft. Then add a piece
of butter rolled in flour; quicken the fire, and give it one boil.
Serve up all together.

A cold duck that has been under-done may be stewed in this manner.

TO HASH A DUCK.

Cut up the duck and season it with pepper and mixed spices. Have ready
some thin slices of cold ham or bacon. Place a layer of them in a
stew-pan; then put in the duck and cover it with ham. Add just water
enough to moisten it, and pour over all a large glass of red wine.
Cover the pan closely and let it stew for an hour.

Have ready a quart or more of green peas, boiled tender drained, and
mixed with butter and pepper. Lay them round the hashed duck.

If you hash a cold duck in this manner, a quarter of an hour will be
sufficient for stewing it; it having been cooked already.

TO ROAST A GOOSE.

Having drawn and singed the goose, wipe out the inside with a cloth,
and sprinkle in some pepper and salt. Make a stuffing of four good
sized onions minced fine, and half their quantity of green sage leaves
minced also, a large tea-cupful of grated bread-crumbs, a piece of
butter the size of a walnut, and the beaten yolks of two eggs, with a
little pepper and salt. Mix the whole together, and incorporate them
well. Put the stuffing into the goose, and press it in hard; but do not
entirely fill up the cavity, as the mixture will swell in cooking. Tie
the goose securely round with a greased or wetted string; and paper the
breast to prevent it from scorching. Fasten the goose on the spit at
both ends. The fire must be brisk and well kept up. It will require
from two hours to two and a half to roast. Baste it at first with a
little salt and water, and then with its own gravy. Take off the paper
when the goose is about half done, and dredge it with a little flour
towards the last. Having parboiled the liver and heart, chop them and
put them into the gravy, which must be skimmed well and thickened with
a little browned flour.

Send apple-sauce to table with the goose; also mashed potatoes.

A goose may be stuffed entirely with potatoes, boiled and mashed with
milk, butter, pepper and salt.

You may make a gravy of the giblets, that is the neck, pinions, liver,
heart and gizzard, stewed in a little water, thickened with butter
rolled in flour, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Add a glass of red
wine. Before you send it to table, take out all but the liver and
heart; mince them and leave them in the gravy. This gravy is by many
preferred to that which comes from the goose in roasting. It is well to
have both.

If a goose is old it is useless to cook it, as when hard and tough it
cannot be eaten.

A GOOSE PIE.

Cut a fine large young goose into eight pieces, and season it with
pepper. Reserve the giblets for gravy. Take a smoked tongue that has
been all night in soak, parboil it, peel it, and cut it into thick
slices, omitting the root, which you must divide into small pieces, and
put into a sauce-pan with the giblets and sufficient water to stew them
slowly.

Make a nice paste, allowing a pound and a half of butter to three
pounds of flour. Roll it out thick, and line with it the bottom and
sides of a deep dish. Fill it with the pieces of goose, and the slices
of tongue. Skim the gravy you have drawn from the giblets, thicken it
with a little browned flour, and pour it into the pie dish. Then put on
the lid or upper crust. Notch and ornament it handsomely with leaves
and flowers of paste. Bake the pie about three hours in a brisk oven.

In making a large goose pie you may add a fowl, or a pair of pigeons,
or partridges,—all cut up.

A duck pie may be made in the same manner.

Small pies are sometimes made of goose giblets only.

A CHRISTMAS GOOSE PIE.

These pies are always made with a standing crust. Put into a sauce-pan
one pound of butter cut up, and a pint and a half of water; stir it
while it is melting, and let it come to a boil. Then skim off whatever
milk or impurity may rise to the top. Have ready four pounds of flour
sifted into a pan. Make a hole in the middle of it, and pour in the
melted butter while hot. Mix it with a spoon to a stiff paste, (adding
the beaten yolks of three or four eggs,) and then knead it very well
with your hands, on the paste-board, keeping it dredged with flour till
it ceases to be sticky. Then set it away to cool.

Split a large goose, and a fowl down the back, loosen the flesh all
over with a sharp knife, and take out all the bones. Parboil a smoked
tongue; peel it and cut off the root. Mix together a powdered nutmeg, a
quarter of an ounce of powdered mace, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a
tea-spoonful of salt, and season with them the fowl and the goose.

Roll out the paste near an inch thick, and divide it into three pieces.
Cut out two of them of an oval form for the top and bottom; and the
other into a long straight piece for the sides or walls of the pie.
Brush the paste all over with beaten white of egg, and set on the
bottom the piece that is to form the wall, pinching the edges together,
and cementing them with white of egg. The bottom piece must be large
enough to turn up a little round the lower edge of the wall piece, to
which it must be firmly joined all round. When you have the crust
properly fixed, so as to be baked standing alone without a dish, put in
first the goose, then the fowl, and then the tongue. Fill up what space
is left with pieces of the flesh of pigeons, or of partridges, quails,
or any game that is convenient. There must be no bones in the pie. You
may add also some bits of ham, or some force-meat balls. Lastly, cover
the other ingredients with half a pound of butter, and pat on the top
crust, which, of course, must be also of an oval form to correspond
with the bottom. The lid must be placed not quite on the top edge of
the wall, but an inch and a half below it. Close it very well, and
ornament the sides and top with festoons and leaves cut out of paste.
Notch the edges handsomely, and put a paste flower in the centre. Glaze
the whole with beaten yolk of egg, and bind the pie all round with a
double fold of white paper. Set it in a regular oven, and bake it four
hours.

This is one way of making the celebrated goose pies that it is
customary in England to send as presents at Christmas. They are eaten
at luncheon, and if the weather is cold, and they are kept carefully
covered up from the air, they will be good for two or three weeks; the
standing crust assisting to preserve them.

TO ROAST A TURKEY.

Make a force-meat of grated bread-crumbs, minced suet, sweet marjoram,
grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and beaten yolk of egg. You
may add some grated cold ham. Light some writing paper, and singe the
hairs from the skin of the turkey. Reserve the neck, liver, and gizzard
for the gravy. Stuff the craw of the turkey with the force-meat, of
which there should be enough made to form into balls for frying, laying
them round the turkey when it is dished. Dredge it with flour, and
roast it before a clear brisk fire, basting it with cold lard. Towards
the last, set the turkey nearer to the fire, dredge it again very
lightly with flour, and baste it with butter. It will require,
according to its size, from two to three hours roasting.

Make the gravy of the giblets cut in pieces, seasoned, and stewed for
two hours in a very little water; thicken it with a spoonful of browned
flour, and stir into it the gravy from the dripping-pan, having first
skimmed off the fat.

A turkey should be accompanied by ham or tongue. Serve up with it
mushroom-sauce. Have stewed cranberries on the table to eat with it. Do
not help any one to the legs, or drum-sticks as they are called.

Turkeys are sometimes stuffed entirely with sausage-meat. Small cakes
of this meat should then be fried, and laid round it.

To bone a turkey, you must begin with a very sharp knife at the top of
the wings, and scrape the flesh loose from the bone without dividing or
cutting it to pieces. If done carefully and dexterously, the whole mass
of flesh may be separated from the bone, so that you can take hold of
the head and draw out the entire skeleton at once. A large quantity of
force-meat having been prepared, stuff it hard into the turkey,
restoring it by doing so to its natural form, filling out the body,
breast, wings and legs, so as to resemble their original shape when the
bones were in. Roast or bake it; pouring a glass of port wine into the
gravy. A boned turkey is frequently served up cold, covered with lumps
of currant jelly; slices of which are laid round the dish.

Any sort of poultry or game may be boned and stuffed in the same
manner,

A cold turkey that has not been boned is sometimes sent to table larded
all over the breast with slips of fat bacon, drawn through the flesh
with a larding needle, and arranged in regular form.

TO BOIL A TURKEY.

Take twenty-five large fine oysters, and chop them. Mix with them half
a pint of grated bread-crumbs, half a handful of chopped parsley, a
quarter of a pound of butter, two table-spoonfuls, of cream or rich
milk, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. When it is thoroughly mixed,
stuff the craw of the turkey with it, and sew up the skin. Then dredge
it with flour, put it into a large pot or kettle, and cover it well
with cold water. Place it over the fire, and let it boil slowly for
half an hour, taking off the scum as it rises. Then remove the pot from
over the fire, and set it on hot coals to stew slowly for two hours, or
two hours and a half, according to its size, Just before you send it to
table, place it again over the fire to get well heated. When you boil a
turkey, skewer the liver and gizzard to the sides, under the wings.

Send it to table with oyster-sauce in a small tureen.

In making the stuffing, you may substitute for the grated bread,
chestnuts boiled, peeled, and minced or mashed. Serve up
chestnut-sauce, made by peeling some boiled chestnuts and putting them
whole into melted butter,

Some persons, to make them white, boil their turkeys tied up in a large
cloth sprinkled with flour.

With a turkey, there should be on the table a ham, or a smoked tongue.

TO ROAST PIGEONS.

Draw and pick four pigeons immediately after they are killed, and let
them be cooked soon, as they do not keep well. Wash the inside very
clean, and wipe it dry. Stuff them with a mixture of parsley parboiled
and chopped, grated bread-crumbs, and butter; seasoned with pepper,
salt, and nutmeg. Dredge them with flour, and roast them before a good
fire, basting them with butter. They will be done in about twenty-five
or thirty minutes. Serve them up with parsley-sauce. Lay the pigeons on
the dish in a row.

If asparagus is in season, it will be much better than parsley both for
the stuffing and sauce. It must first be boiled. Chop the green heads
for the stuffing, and cut them in two for the melted butter. Have
cranberry-sauce on the table.

Pigeons may be split and broiled, like chickens; also stewed or
fricasseed.

They are very good stewed with slices of cold ham and green peas,
serving up all in the same dish.

PIGEON PIE.

Take four pigeons, and pick and clean them very nicely, Season them
with pepper and salt, and put inside of every one a large piece of
butter and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Have ready a good paste,
allowing a pound of butter to two pounds of sifted flour. Roll it out
rather thick, and line with it the bottom and sides of a large deep
dish. Put in the pigeons, and lay on the top some bits of butter rolled
in flour. Pour in nearly enough of water to fill the dish. Cover the
pie with a lid of paste rolled out thick, and nicely notched, and
ornamented with paste leaves and flowers.

You may make a similar pie of pheasants, partridges, or grouse.


TO ROAST PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, QUAILS, OR GROUSE.

Pick and draw the birds immediately after they are brought in. Before
you roast them, fill the inside with pieces of a fine ripe orange,
leaving out the rind and seeds. Or stuff them with grated cold ham,
mixed with bread-crumbs, butter, and a little yolk of egg. Lard them
with small slips of the fat of bacon drawn through the flesh with a
larding needle, Roast them before a clear fire.

Make a fine rich gravy of the trimmings of meat or poultry, stewed in a
little water, and thickened with a spoonful of browned flour. Strain
it, and set it on the fire again, having added half a pint of claret,
and the juice of two large oranges. Simmer it for a few minutes, pour
some of it into the dish with the game, and serve the remainder in a
boat.

If you stuff them with force-meat, you may, instead of larding, brush
them all over with beaten yolk of egg, and then cover them, with
bread-crumbs grated finely and sifted.

ANOTHER WAY TO ROAST PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, ETC.

Chop some fine raw oysters, omitting the hard part; mix them with salt,
and nutmeg, and add some beaten yolk of egg to bind the other
ingredients. Cut some very thin slices of cold ham or bacon, and cover
the birds with them; then wrap them closely in sheets of white paper
well buttered, put them on the spit, and roast them before a clear
fire.

Send them to table with oyster-sauce in a boat.

Pies may be made of any of these birds in the same manner as a pigeon
pie.

TO ROAST SNIPES, WOODCOCKS, OR PLOVERS.

Pick them immediately; but it is the fashion to cook these birds
without drawing. Cut some slices of bread, allowing a slice to each
bird, and (having pared off the crust) toast them nicely, and lay them
in the bottom of the dripping-pan to catch the trail, as it is called.
Dredge the birds with flour, and put them on a small spit before a
clear brisk fire. Baste them with lard, or fresh butter. They will be
done in twenty or thirty minutes. Serve them up laid on the toast, and
garnished with sliced orange, or with orange jelly.

Have brown gravy in a boat.

TO ROAST REED-BIRDS, OR ORTOLANS.

Put into every bird, an oyster, or a little butter mixed with some
finely sifted bread-crumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run a small skewer
through them, and tie them on the spit. Baste them with lard or with
fresh butter. They will be done in about ten minutes.

A very nice way of cooking these birds is, (having greased them all
over with lard or with fresh butter, and wrapped them in vine leaves
secured closely with a string,) to lay them in a heated iron pan, and
bury them in ashes hot enough to roast or bake them. Remove the vine
leaves before you send the birds to table.

Reed birds are very fine made into little dumplings with a thin crust
of flour and butter, and boiled about twenty minutes. Each must be tied
in a separate cloth.

LARDING.

To lard meat or poultry is to introduce into the surface of the flesh,
slips of the fat only of bacon, by means of a larding-pin or
larding-needle, it being called by both names. It is a steel instrument
about a foot long, sharp at one end, and cleft at the other into four
divisions, which are near two inches in length, and resemble tweezers.
It can be obtained at the hardware stores.

Cut the bacon into slips about two inches in length, half an inch in
breadth, and half an inch in thickness. If intended for poultry, the
slips of bacon should not be thicker than a straw. Put them, one at a
time, into the cleft or split end of the larding-needle. Give each slip
a slight twist, and press it down hard into the needle with your
fingers. Then push the needle through the flesh, (avoiding the places
where the bones are,) and when you draw it out it will have left behind
it the slip of bacon sticking in the surface. Take care to have all the
slips of the same size, and arranged in regular rows at equal
distances. Every slip should stand up about an inch. If any are wrong,
take them out and do them over again. To lard handsomely and neatly
requires practice and dexterity.

Fowls and game are generally larded on the breast only. If cold, they
can be done with the fat of cold boiled ham. Larding may be made to
look very tastefully on any thing that is not to be cooked afterwards.

FORCE-MEAT BALLS.

To a pound of the lean of a leg of veal, allow a pound of beef suet.
Mince them together very fine. Then season it to your taste with
pepper, salt, mace, nutmeg, and chopped sage or sweet marjoram. Then
chop a half-pint of oysters, and beat six eggs very well. Mix the whole
together, and pound it to a paste in a marble mortar. If you do not
want it immediately, put it away in a stone pot, strew a little flour
on the top, and cover it closely.

When you wish to use the force-meat, divide into equal parts as much of
it as you want; and having floured your hands, roll it into round
balls, all of the same size. Either fry them in butter, or boil them.

This force-meat will be found a very good stuffing for meat or poultry.



GRAVY AND SAUCES.


DRAWN OR MADE GRAVY.

For this purpose you may use coarse pieces of the lean of beef or veal,
or the giblets and trimmings of poultry or game. If must be stewed for
a long time, skimmed, strained, thickened, and flavoured with whatever
condiments are supposed most suited to the dish it is to accompany.

In preparing meat to stew for gravy, beat it with a mallet or
meat-beetle, score it, and cut it into small pieces; this makes it give
oat the juices. Season it with pepper and salt, and put it into a
stew-pan with butter only. Heat it gradually, till it becomes brown.
Shake the pan frequently, and see that it does not bum or stick to the
bottom. It will generally be browned sufficiently in half an hour. Then
put in some boiling water, allowing one pint to each pound of meat.
Simmer it on coals by the side of the fire for near three hours,
skimming it well, and keeping it closely covered. When done, remove it
from the heat, let it stand awhile to settle, and then strain it.

If you wish to keep it two or three days, (which you may in winter,)
put it into a stone vessel, cover it closely, and set it in a cool
place.

Do not thicken this gravy till you go to use it.

MELTED BUTTER, SOMETIMES CALLED DRAWN BUTTER.

Melted butter is the foundation of most of the common sauces. Have a
covered sauce-pan for this purpose. One lined with porcelain will be
best. Take a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter, cut it up,
and mix with it about two tea-spoonfuls of flour. When it is thoroughly
mixed, put it into the sauce-pan, and add to it four table-spoonfuls of
cold water. Cover the sauce-pan, and set it in a large tin pan of
boiling water. Shake it round continually (always moving it the same
way) till it is entirely melted and begins to simmer. Then let it rest
till it boils up.

If you set it on hot coals, or over the fire, it will be oily.

If the butter and flour is not well mixed it will be lumpy.

If you put too much water, it will be thin and poor. All these defects
are to be carefully avoided.

In melting butter for sweet or pudding sauce, you may use milk instead
of water.

TO BROWN FLOUR.

Spread some fine flour on a plate, and set it in the oven, turning it
up and stirring it frequently that it may brown equally all through.

Put it into a jar, cover it well, and keep it to stir into gravies to
thicken and colour them.

TO BROWN BUTTER.

Put a lump of butter into a frying-pan, and toss it round over the fire
till it becomes brown. Then dredge some browned flour over it, and stir
it round with a spoon till it boils. It must be made quite smooth. You
may make this into a plain sauce for fish by adding cayenne and some
flavoured vinegar.



PLAIN SAUCES.


LOBSTER SAUCE.

Boil a dozen blades of mace and half a dozen pepper-corns in about a
jill and a half (or three wine-glasses) of water, till all the strength
of the spice is extracted. Then strain it, and having cut three
quarters of a pound of butter into little bits, melt it in this water,
dredging in a little flour as you hold it over the fire to boil. Toss
it round, and let it just boil up and no more.

Take a cold boiled lobster,—pound the coral in a mortar adding a little
sweet oil. Then stir it into the melted butter.

Chop the meat of the body into very small pieces, and rub it through a
cullender into the butter. Cut up the flesh of the claws and tail into
dice, and stir it in. Give it another boil up, and it will be ready for
table.

Serve it up with fresh salmon, or any boiled fish of the best kind.

Crab sauce is made in a similar manner; also prawn and shrimp sauce.

ANCHOVY SAUCE.

Soak eight anchovies for three or four hours, changing the water every
hour. Then put them into a sauce-pan with a quart of cold water. Set
them on hot coals and simmer them till they are entirely dissolved, and
till the liquid is diminished two-thirds. Then strain it, stir two
glasses of red wine, and add to it about half a pint of melted butter.

Heat it over again, and send it to table with salmon or fresh cod.

CELERY SAUCE.

Take a large bunch of young celery. Wash and pare it very clean. Cut it
into pieces, and boil it gently in a small quantity of water, till it
is quite tender. Then add a little powdered mace and nutmeg, and a very
little pepper and salt. Take a tolerably large piece of butter, roll it
well in flour, and stir it into the sauce. Boil it up again, and it is
ready to send to table.

You may make it with cream, thus:—Prepare and boil your celery as
above, adding some mace, nutmeg, a piece of butter the size of a
walnut, rolled in flour; and half a pint of cream. Boil all together.

Celery sauce is eaten with boiled poultry.

When celery is out of season, you may use celery seed, boiled in the
water which you afterwards use for the melted butter, but strained out
after boiling.

NASTURTIAN SAUCE.

This is by many considered superior to caper sauce and is eaten with
boiled mutton. It is made with the green seeds of nasturtians, pickled
simply in cold vinegar.

Cut about six ounces of butter into small hits, and put them into a
small sauce-pan. Mix with a wine-glass of water sufficient flour to
make a thick batter, pour it on the butter, and hold the sauce-pan over
hot coals, shaking it quickly round, till the butter is melted. Let it
just boil up, and then take it from the fire. Thicken it with the
pickled nasturtians and send it to table in a boat.

Never pour melted butter over any thing, but always send it to table in
a sauce-tureen or boat.

WHITE ONION SAUCE.

Peel a dozen onions, and throw them into salt and water to keep them
white. Then boil them tender. When done, squeeze the water from them,
and chop them. Have ready some butter that has been melted rich and
smooth with milk or cream instead of water. Put the onions into the
melted butter, and boil them up at once. If you wish to have them very
mild, put in a turnip with them at the first boiling.

Young white onions, if very small, need not be chopped, but may be put
whole into the butter.

Use this sauce for rabbits, tripe, boiled poultry, or any boiled fresh
meat.

BROWN ONION SAUCE.

Slice some large mild Spanish onions. Cover them with butter, and set
them over a slow fire to brown. Then add salt and cayenne pepper to
your taste, and some good brown gravy of roast meat, poultry or game,
thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour that has first been
browned by holding it in a hot pan or shovel over the fire. Give it a
boil, skim it well, and just before you take it off, stir in a half
glass of port or claret, and the same quantity of mushroom catchup.

Use this sauce for roasted poultry, game, or meat.

MUSHROOM SAUCE.

Wash a pint of small button mushrooms,—remove the stems and the outside
skin. Stew them slowly in veal gravy or in milk or cream, seasoning
them with pepper and salt, and adding a piece of butter rolled in a
large proportion of flour. Stew them till quite tender, now and then
taking off the cover of the pan to stir them.

The flavour will be heightened by having salted a few the night before
in a covered dish, to extract the juice, and then stirring it into the
sauce while stewing.

This sauce may be served up with poultry, game, or beef-steaks.

In gathering mushrooms take only those that are of a dull pearl colour
on the outside, and that have the under part tinged with pale pink.

Boil an onion with them. If there is a poisonous one among them, the
onion will turn black. Then throw away the whole.

EGG SAUCE.

Boil four eggs a quarter of an hour. Dip them into cold water to
prevent their looking blue. Peel off the shell. Chop the yolks of all,
and the whites of two, and stir them into melted butter. Serve this
sauce with boiled poultry or fish.

BREAD SAUCE.

Put some grated crumbs of stale bread into a sauce-pan, and pour over
them some of the liquor in which poultry or fresh meat has been boiled.
Add some plums or dried currants that have been picked and washed.
Having simmered them till the bread is quite soft, and the currants
well plumped, add melted butter or cream.

This sauce is for a roast pig.

MINT SAUCE.

Take a large bunch of young green mint; if old the taste will be
unpleasant. Wash it very clean. Pick all the leaves from the stalks.
Chop the leaves very fine, and mix them with cold vinegar, and a large
proportion of powdered sugar. There must be merely sufficient vinegar
to moisten the mint well, but by no means enough to make the sauce
liquid.

It is only eaten in the spring with roast lamb. Send it to table in a
sauce-tureen.

CAPER SAUCE.

Take two large table-spoonfuls of capers and a little vinegar. Stir
them for some time into half a pint of thick melted butter.

This sauce is for boiled mutton.

If you happen to have no capers, pickled cucumber chopped fine, or the
pickled pods of radish seeds, may be stirred into the butter as a
tolerable substitute.

PARSLEY SAUCE.

Wash a bunch of parsley in cold water. Then boil it about six or seven
minutes in salt and water. Drain it, cut the leaves from the stalks,
and chop them fine. Hare ready some melted butter, and stir in the
parsley. Allow two small table-spoonfuls of leaves to half a pint of
butter.

Serve it up with boiled fowls, rock-fish, sea-bass, and other boiled
fresh fish.. Also with knuckle of veal, and with calf’s head boiled
plain.

APPLE SAUCE.

Pare, core, and slice some fine apples. Put them into a sauce-pan with
just sufficient water to keep them from burning, and some grated
lemon-peel. Stew them till quite soft and tender. Then mash them to a
paste, and make them very sweet with brown sugar, adding a small piece
of butter and some nutmeg.

Apple sauce is eaten with roast pork, roast goose and roast ducks.

Be careful not to have it thin and watery.

CRANBERRY SAUCE.

Wash a quart of ripe cranberries, and put them into a pan with about a
wine-glass of water. Stew them slowly, and stir them frequently,
particularly after they begin to burst. They require a great deal of
stewing, and should be like a marmalade when done. Just before you take
them from the fire, stir in a pound of brown sugar.

When they are thoroughly done, put them into a deep dish, and set them
away to get cold.

You may strain the pulp through a cullender or sieve into a mould, and
when it is in a firm shape send it to table on a glass dish. Taste it
when it is cold, and if not sweet enough, add more sugar. Cranberries
require more sugar than any other fruit, except plums.

Cranberry sauce is eaten with roast turkey, roast fowls, and roast
ducks.

PEACH SAUCE.

Take a quart of dried peaches, (those are richest and best that are
dried with the skins on,) and soak them in cold water till they are
tender. Then drain them, and put them into a covered pan with a very
little water. Set them on coals, and simmer them till they are entirely
dissolved. Then mash them with brown sugar, and send them to table cold
to eat with roast meat, game or poultry.

WINE SAUCE.

Have ready some rich thick melted or drawn butter, and the moment you
take it from the fire, stir in two large glasses of white wine, two
table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar, and a powdered nutmeg. Serve
it up with plum pudding, or any sort of boiled pudding that is made of
a batter.

COLD SWEET SAUCE.

Stir together, as for a pound-cake, equal quantities of fresh butter
and powdered white sugar. When quite light and creamy, add some
powdered cinnamon or nutmeg, and a few drops of essence of lemon. Send
it to table in a small deep plate with a tea-spoon in it.

Eat it with batter pudding, bread pudding, Indian pudding, &c. whether
baked or boiled. Also with boiled apple pudding or dumplings, and with
fritters and pancakes.

CREAM SAUCE.

Boil a pint and a half of rich cream with four table-spoonfuls of
powdered sugar, some pieces of cinnamon, and a dozen bitter almonds or
peach kernels slightly broken up, or a dozen fresh peach leaves. As
soon as it has boiled up, take it off the fire and strain it. If it is
to be eaten with boiled pudding or with dumplings send it to table hot,
but let it get quite cold if you intend it as an accompaniment to fruit
pies or tarts.

OYSTER SAUCE.

Take a pint of oysters, and save out a little of their liquid. Put them
with their remaining liquor, and some mace and nutmegs, into a covered
sauce-pan, and simmer them on hot coals about eight minutes. Then drain
them.

Having prepared in another sauce-pan some drawn or melted butter,
(mixed with oyster liquor instead of water,) pour it into a sauce-boat,
add the oysters to it, and serve it up with boiled poultry or with
boiled fresh fish.



STORE FISH SAUCES.


GENERAL REMARKS.

Store fish sauces if properly made will keep for many months. They may
be brought to table in fish castors, but a customary mode is to send
them round in the small black bottles in which they have been
originally deposited. They are in great variety, and may be purchased
of the grocers that sell oil, pickles, anchovies, &c. In making them at
home, the few following receipts may be found useful.

The usual way of eating these sauces is to pour a little on your plate,
and mix it with the melted butter. They give flavour to fish that would
otherwise be insipid, and are in general use at genteel tables.

Two table-spoonfuls of any of these sauces may be added to the melted
butter a minute before you take it from the fire. But if brought to
table in bottles, the company can use it or omit it as they please.

SCOTCH SAUCE.

Take fifteen anchovies, chop them fine, and steep them in vinegar for a
week, keeping the vessel closely covered. Then put them into a pint of
claret or port wine. Scrape fine a large stick of horseradish, and chop
two onions, a handful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of the leaves of
lemon-thyme, and two large peach leaves. Add a nutmeg, six or eight
blades of mace, nine cloves, and a tea-spoonful of black pepper, all
slightly pounded in a mortar. Put all these ingredients into a silver
or block tin sauce-pan, or into an earthen pipkin, and add a few grains
of cochineal to colour it. Pour in a large half pint of the best
vinegar, and simmer it slowly till the bones of the anchovies are
entirely dissolved.

Strain the liquor through a sieve, and when quite cold put it away for
use in small bottles; the corks dipped in melted rosin, and
well-secured by pieces of leather tied closely over them. Fill each
bottle quite full, as it will keep the better for leaving no vacancy.

This sauce will give a fine flavour to melted butter.

QUIN’S SAUCE.

Pound in a mortar six large anchovies, moistening them with their own
pickle. Then chop and pound six small onions. Mix them with a little
black pepper and a little cayenne, half a glass of soy, four glasses of
mushroom catchup, two glasses of claret, and two of black walnut
pickle. Put the mixture into a small sauce-pan or earthen pipkin, and
let it simmer slowly till all the bones of the anchovies are dissolved.
Strain it, and when cold, bottle it for use; dipping the cork in melted
rosin, and tying leather over it. Fill the bottles quite full.

KITCHINER’S FISH SAUCE.

Mix together a pint of claret, a pint of mushroom catchup, and half a
pint of walnut pickle, four ounces of pounded anchovy, an ounce of
fresh lemon-peel pared thin, and the same quantity of shalot or small
onion. Also an ounce of scraped horseradish, half an ounce of black
pepper, and half an ounce of allspice mixed, and the same quantity of
cayenne and celery-seed. Infuse these ingredients in a wide-mouthed
bottle (closely stopped) for a fortnight, shaking the mixture every
day. Then strain and bottle it for use. Put it up in small bottles,
filling them quite full.

HARVEY’S SAUCE.

Dissolve six anchovies in a pint of strong vinegar, and then add to
them three table-spoonfuls of India soy, and three table-spoonfuls of
mushroom catchup, two heads of garlic bruised small, and a quarter of
an ounce of cayenne. Add sufficient cochineal powder to colour the
mixture red. Let all these ingredients infuse in the vinegar for a
fortnight, shaking it every day, and then strain and bottle it for use.
Let the bottles be small, and cover the corks with leather.

GENERAL SAUCE.

Chop six shalots or small onions, a clove of garlic, two peach leaves,
a few sprigs of lemon-thyme and of sweet basil, and a few bits of fresh
orange-peel. Bruise in a mortar a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a
quarter of an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of long pepper. Mix two
ounces of salt, a jill of vinegar, the juice of two lemons, and a pint
of Madeira. Put the whole of these ingredients together in a stone jar,
very closely covered. Let it stand all night over embers by the side of
the fire. In the morning pour off the liquid quickly and carefully from
the lees or settlings, strain it and put it into small bottles, dipping
the corks in melted rosin.

This sauce is intended to flavour melted butter or gravy, for every
sort of fish and meat.

PINK SAUCE.

Mix together half a pint of port wine, half a pint of strong vinegar,
the juice and grated peel of two large lemons, a quarter of an ounce of
cayenne, a dozen blades of mace, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered
cochineal. Let it infuse a fortnight, stirring it several times a day.
Then boil it ten minutes, strain it, and bottle it for use.

Eat it with any sort of fish or game. It will give a fine pink tinge to
melted butter.

CATCHUPS.

LOBSTER CATCHUP.

This catchup, warmed in melted butter, is an excellent substitute for
fresh lobster sauce at seasons when the fish cannot he procured, as, if
properly made, it will keep a year.

Take a fine lobster that weighs about three pounds. Put it into boiling
water, and cook it thoroughly. When it is cold break it up, and extract
all the flesh from the shell. Pound the red part or coral in a marble
mortar, and when it is well bruised, add the white meat by degrees, and
pound that also; seasoning it with a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and
moistening it gradually with sherry wine. When it is beaten to a smooth
paste, mix it well with the remainder of the bottle of sherry. Put it
into wide-mouthed bottles, and on the top of each lay a
dessert-spoonful of whole pepper. Dip the corks in melted rosin, and
secure them well by tying leather over them.

In using this catchup allow four table-spoonfuls to a common-sized
sauce-boat of melted butter. Put in the catchup at the last, and hold
it over the fire just long enough to be thoroughly heated.

ANCHOVY CATCHUP.

Bone two dozen anchovies, and then chop them. Put to them ten shalots,
or very small onions, cut fine, and a handful of scraped horseradish,
with a quarter of an ounce of mace. Add a lemon, cut into slices,
twelve cloves, and twelve pepper-corns. Then mix together a pint of red
wine, a quart of white wine, a pint of water and half a pint of anchovy
liquor. Put the other ingredients into the liquid, and boil it slowly
till reduced to a quart. Then strain it, and when cold put it into
small bottles, securing the corks with leather.

OYSTER CATCHUP.

Take large salt oysters that have just been opened. Wash them in their
own liquor, and pound them, in a mortar, omitting the hard parts. To
every pint of the pounded oysters, add a half pint of white wine or
vinegar, in which you must give them a boil up, removing the scum as it
rises. Then to each quart of the boiled oysters allow a tea-spoonful of
beaten white pepper, a salt-spoonful of pounded mace, and cayenne and
salt to your taste. Let it boil up for a few minutes, and then pass it
through a sieve into an earthen pan. When cold, put it into small
bottles, filling them quite full, as it will not keep so well if there
is a vacancy at the top. Dip the corks in melted rosin, and tie leather
over each.

WALNUT CATCHUP.

Take green walnuts that are young enough to be easily pierced through
with a large needle. Having pricked them all in several places, throw
them into an earthen pan with a large handful of salt, and barely
sufficient water to cover them. Break up and mash them with a
potato-beetle, or a rolling-pin. Keep them four days in the salt and
water, stirring and mashing them every day. The rinds will now be quite
soft. Then scald them with boiling-hot salt and water, and raising the
pan on the edge, let the walnut liquor flow away from the shells into
another pan. Put the shells into a mortar, and pound them with vinegar,
which will extract from them all the remaining juice.

Put all the walnut liquor together, and boil and skim it, then to every
quart allow an ounce of bruised ginger, an ounce of black pepper, half
an ounce of cloves, and half an ounce of nutmeg, all slightly beaten.
Boil the spice and walnut liquor in a closely covered vessel for three
quarters of an hour. When cold, bottle it for use, putting equal
proportions of the spice into each bottle. Secure the corks with
leather.

MUSHROOM CATCHUP.

Take mushrooms that have been freshly gathered, and examine them
carefully to ascertain that they are of the right sort. Pick them
nicely, and wipe them clean, but do not wash them. Spread a layer of
them at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and then sprinkle them well
with salt; then another layer of mushrooms, and another layer of salt,
and so on alternately. Throw a folded cloth over the jar, and set it by
the fire or in a very cool oven. Let it remain thus for twenty-four
hours, and then mash them well with your hands. Next squeeze and strain
them through a bag.

To every quart of strained liquor add an ounce and a half of whole
black pepper, and boil it slowly in a covered vessel for half an hour.
Then add a quarter of an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of sliced
ginger, a few cloves, and three or four blades of mace. Boil it with
the spice fifteen minutes longer. When it is done, take it off, and let
it stand awhile to settle. Pour it carefully off from the sediment and
put it into small bottles, filling them to the top. Secure them well
with corks dipped in melted rosin, and leather caps tied over them.

The longer catchup is boiled, the better it will keep. You may add
cayenne and nutmeg to the spices.

The bottles should be quite small, as it soon spoils after being
opened.

TOMATA CATCHUP.

Gather the tomatas on a dry day, and when quite ripe. Peel them, and
cut them into quarters. Put them into a large earthen pan, and mash and
squeeze them till they are reduced to a pulp. Allowing half a pint of
fine salt to a hundred tomatas, put them into a preserving kettle, and
boil them gently with the salt for two hours, stirring them frequently
to prevent their burning. Then strain them through a fine sieve,
pressing them with the back of a silver spoon. Season them to your
taste with mace, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and white or red pepper, all
powdered fine.

Put the tomata again over the fire with the spices, and boil it slowly
till very thick, stirring it frequently.

When cold, put it up in small bottles, secure the corks well, and it
will keep good a year or two.

LEMON CATCHUP.

Cut nine large lemons into thin slices, and take out the seeds.
Prepare, by pounding them in a mortar, two ounces of mustard seed, half
an ounce of black pepper, half an ounce of nutmeg, a quarter of an
ounce of mace, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves. Slice thin two
ounces of horseradish. Put all these ingredients together. Strew over
them three ounces of fine salt. Add a quart of the best vinegar.

Boil the whole twenty minutes. Then put it warm into a jar, and let it
stand three weeks closely covered. Stir it up daily.

Then strain it through a sieve, and put it up in small bottles to
flavour fish and other sauces. This is sometimes called lemon pickle.



FLAVOURED VINEGARS.


These vinegars will be found very useful, at times when the articles
with which they are flavoured cannot be conveniently procured. Care
should be taken to have the bottles that contain them accurately
labelled, very tightly corked, and kept in a dry place. The vinegar
used for these purposes should be of the very best sort.

TARRAGON VINEGAR.

Tarragon should be gathered on a dry day, just before the plant
flowers. Pick the green leaves from the stalks, and dry them a little
before the fire. Then put them into a wide-mouthed stone jar, and cover
them with the best vinegar, filling up the jar. Let it steep fourteen
days, and then strain it through a flannel bag. Pour it through a
funnel into half-pint bottles, and cork them well.

SWEET BASIL VINEGAR.

Is made precisely in the same manner; also those of green mint, and
sweet marjoram.

CELERY VINEGAR.

Pound two ounces of celery seed in a mortar, and steep it for a
fortnight in a quart of vinegar. Then strain and bottle it.

BURNET VINEGAR.

Nearly fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves of
burnet, cover them with vinegar, and let them steep two weeks. Then
strain off the vinegar, wash the bottle, put in a fresh supply of
burnet leaves, pour the same vinegar over them, and let it infuse a
fortnight longer. Then strain it again and it will be fit for use. The
flavour will exactly resemble that of cucumbers.

HORSERADISH VINEGAR.

Make a quart of the best vinegar boiling hot, and pour it on four
ounces of scraped horseradish. Let it stand a week, then strain it off,
renew the horseradish, adding the same vinegar cold, and let it infuse
a week longer, straining it again at the last.

SHALOT VINEGAR.

Peel and chop fine four ounces of shalots, or small button onions. Pour
on them a quart of the best vinegar, and let them steep a fortnight;
then strain and bottle it.

Make garlic vinegar in the same manner; using but two ounces of garlic
to a quart of vinegar. Two or three drops will be sufficient to impart
a garlic taste to a pint of gravy or sauce. More will be offensive. The
cook should be cautioned to use it very sparingly, as to many persons
it is extremely disagreeable.

CHILLI VINEGAR.

Take a hundred red chillies or capsicums, fresh gathered; cut them into
small pieces and infuse them for a fortnight in a quart of the best
vinegar, shaking the bottle every day. Then strain it.

RASPBERRY VINEGAR.

Put two quarts of ripe fresh-gathered raspberries into a stone or china
vessel, and pour on them a quart of vinegar. Let it stand twenty-four
hours, and then strain it through a sieve. Pour the liquid over two
quarts of fresh raspberries, and let it again infuse for a day and a
night. Then strain it a second time. Allow a pound of loaf sugar to
every pint of juice. Break up the sugar, and let it melt in the liquor.
Then put the whole into a stone jar, cover it closely, and set it in a
kettle of boiling water, which must be kept on a quick boil for an
hour. Take off all the scum and when cold, bottle the vinegar for use.

Raspberry vinegar mixed with water is a pleasant and cooling beverage
in warm weather; also in fevers.



MUSTARD AND PEPPER.


COMMON MUSTARD

Is best when fresh made. Take good flour of mustard; put it in a plate,
add to it a little salt, and mix it by degrees with boiling water to
the usual consistence, rubbing it for a long time with a broad-bladed
knife or a wooden spoon. It should be perfectly smooth. The less that
is made at a time the better it will be. If you wish it very mild, use
sugar instead of salt, and boiling milk instead of water.

KEEPING MUSTARD.

Dissolve three ounces of salt in a quart of boiling vinegar, and pour
it hot upon two ounces of scraped horseradish. Cover the jar closely
and let it stand twenty-four hours. Strain it and then mix it by
degrees with the best flour of mustard. Make it of the usual thickness,
and beat it till quite smooth. Then put it into wide-mouthed bottles
and stop it closely.

FRENCH MUSTARD.

Mix together four ounces of the very best mustard powder, four
salt-spoons of salt, a large table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves,
and two cloves of garlic chopped fine. Pour on by degrees sufficient
vinegar (tarragon vinegar is best) to dilute it to the proper
consistence. It will probably require about four wine-glassfuls or half
a pint. Mix it well, using for the purpose a wooden spoon. When done,
put it into a wide-mouthed bottle or into little white jars. Cork it
very closely, and keep it in a dry place. It will not be fit for use in
less than two days.

This (used as the common mustard) is a very agreeable condiment for
beef or mutton.

TO MAKE CAYENNE PEPPER.

Take ripe chillies and dry them a whole day before the fire, turning
them frequently. When quite dry, trim off the stalks and pound the pods
in a mortar till they become a fine powder, mixing in about one sixth
of their weight in salt. Or you may grind them in a very fine mill.
While pounding the chillies, wear glasses to save your eyes from being
incommoded by them. Put the powder into small bottles, and secure the
corks closely.

KITCHEN PEPPER.

Mix together two ounces of the best white ginger, an ounce of black
pepper, an ounce of white pepper, an ounce of cinnamon, an ounce of
nutmeg, and two dozen cloves. They must all be ground or pounded to a
fine powder, and thoroughly mixed. Keep the mixture in a bottle,
labelled, and well corked. It will be found useful in seasoning many
dishes; and being ready prepared will save much trouble.



VEGETABLES


GENERAL REMARKS.

All vegetables should be well picked and washed. A very little salt
should always be thrown into the water in which they are boiled. A
steady regular fire should be kept up, and they should never for a
moment be allowed to stop boiling or simmering till they are thoroughly
done. Every sort of vegetable should be cooked till tender, as if the
least hard or under-done they are both unpalatable and unwholesome. The
practice of putting pearl-ash in the pot to improve the colour of green
vegetables should be strictly forbidden, as it destroys the flavour,
and either renders them flat and insipid, or communicates a very
disagreeable taste of its own.

Every sort of culinary vegetable is infinitely best when fresh from the
garden, and gathered as short a time as possible before it is cooked.
They should all be laid in a pan of cold water for a while previous to
boiling.

When done, they should be carefully drained before they go to table, or
they will be washy all through, and leave puddles of discoloured water
in the bottoms of the dishes, to the disgust of the company and the
discredit of the cook.

TO BOIL POTATOES.

Potatoes that are boiled together, should be as nearly as possible of
the same size. Wash, but do not pare them. Put them into a pot with
water enough to cover them about an inch, and do not put on the pot
lid. When the water is very near boiling, pour it off, and replace it
with the same quantity of cold water, into which throw a good portion
of salt. The cold water sends the heat from the surface to the heart,
and makes the potatoes mealy. Potatoes of a moderate size will require
about half an hour boiling; large ones an hour. Try them with a fork.
When done, pour off the water, cover the pot with a folded napkin, or
flannel, and let them stand by the fire about a quarter of an hour to
dry.

Peel them and send them to table.

Potatoes should not be served up with the skins on. It has a coarse,
slovenly look, and disfigures the appearance of the dinner; besides the
trouble and inconvenience of peeling them at table.

When the skins crack in boiling, it is no proof that they are done, as
too much fire under the pot will cause the skins of some potatoes to
break while the inside is hard.

After March, when potatoes are old, it is best to pare them before
boiling and to cut out all the blemishes. It is then better to mash
them always before they are sent to table. Mash them when quite hot,
using a potato-beetle for the purpose; add to them a piece of fresh
butter, and a little salt, and, if convenient, some milk, which will
greatly improve them. You may score and brown them on the top.

A very nice way of serving up potatoes is, after they are peeled, to
pour over them some hot cream in which a very little butter has been
melted, and sprinkle them with pepper. This is frequently done in
country houses where cream is plenty. New potatoes (as they are called
when quite young) require no peeling, but should be well washed and
brushed before they are boiled.

FRIED POTATOES.

Take cold potatoes that have been boiled, grate them, make them into
flat cakes, and fry them in butter. They are nice at breakfast. You may
mix some beaten yolk of egg with them.

Cold potatoes may be fried in slices or quarters, or broiled on a
gridiron.

Raw potatoes, when fried, are generally hard, tough, and strong.


POTATO SNOW.

For this purpose use potatoes that are very white, mealy, and smooth.
Boil them very carefully, and when they are done, peel them, pour off
the water, and set them on a trivet before the fire till they are quite
dry and powdery. Then rub them through a coarse wire sieve into the
dish on which they are to go to table. Do not disturb the heap of
potatoes before it is served up, or the flakes will fall and it will
flatten. This preparation looks well; but many think that it renders
the potato insipid.

ROASTED POTATOES.

Take large fine potatoes; wash and dry them, and either lay them on the
hearth and keep them buried in hot wood ashes, or bake them slowly in a
Dutch oven. They will not be done in less than two hours. It will save
time to half-boil them before they are roasted. Send them to table with
the skins on, and eat them with cold butter and salt. They are
introduced with cold meat at supper.

Potatoes keep best buried in sand or earth. They should never be wetted
till they are washed for cooking. If you have them in the cellar, see
that they are well covered with matting or old carpet, as the frost
injures them greatly.

SWEET POTATOES BOILED.

If among your sweet potatoes there should he any that are very large
and thick, split them, and cut them in four, that they may not require
longer time to cook than the others. Boil them with the skins on in
plenty of water, but without any salt. You may set the pot on coals in
the corner. Try them with a fork, and see that they are done all
through; they will take at least an hour. Then drain off the water, and
set them for a few minutes in a tin pan before the fire, or in the
stove, that they may be well dried. Peel them before they are sent to
table.

FRIED SWEET POTATOES.

Choose them of the largest size. Half boil them, and then having taken
off the skins, cut the potatoes in slices, and fry them in butter, or
in nice dripping.

Sweet potatoes are very good stewed with fresh pork, veal, or beef.

The best way to keep them through the cold weather, is to bury them in
earth or sand; otherwise they will be scarcely eatable after October.

CABBAGE.

All vegetables of the cabbage kind should be carefully washed, and
examined in case of insects lurking among the leaves. To prepare a
cabbage for boiling, remove the outer leaves, and pare and trim the
stalk, cutting it close and short. If the cabbage is large, quarter it;
if small, cut it in half; and let it stand for a while in a deep part
of cold water with the large end downwards. Put it into a pot with
plenty of water, (having first tied it together to keep it whole while
boiling,) and, taking off the scum, boil it two hours, or till the
stalk is quite tender. When done, drain and squeeze it well. Before you
send it to table introduce a little fresh butter between the leaves; or
have melted butter in a boat. If it has been boiled with meat add no
butter to it.

A young cabbage will boil in an hour or an hour and a half.

CALE-CANNON.

Boil separately some potatoes and cabbage. When done, drain and squeeze
the cabbage, and chop or mince it very small. Mash the potatoes, and
mix them gradually but thoroughly with the chopped cabbage, adding
butter, pepper and salt. There should be twice as much potato as
cabbage.

Cale-cannon is eaten with corned beef, boiled pork, or bacon.

Cabbages may be kept good all winter by burying them in a hole dug in
the ground.

CAULIFLOWER

Remove the green leaves that surround the head or white part, and peel
off the outside skin of the small piece of stalk that is left on. Cut
the cauliflower in four, and lay it for an hour in a pan of cold water.
Then tie it together before it goes into the pot. Put it into boiling
water and simmer it till the stalk is thoroughly tender, keeping it
well covered with water, and carefully removing the scum. It will take
about two hours.

Take it up as soon as it is done; remaining in the water will discolour
it. Drain it well, and send it to table with melted butter.

It will be much whiter if put on in boiling milk and water.

BROCOLI.

Prepare brocoli for boiling in the same manner as cauliflower, leaving
the stalks rather longer, and splitting the head in half only. Tie it
together again, before it goes into the pot. Put it on in hot water,
and let it simmer till the stalk is perfectly tender.

As soon as it is done take it out of the water and drain it. Send
melted butter to table with it.

SPINACH.

Spinach requires close examination and picking, as insects are
frequently found among it, and it is often gritty. Wash it through
three or four waters. Then drain it, and put it on in boiling water.
Ten minutes is generally sufficient time to boil spinach. Be careful to
remove the scum. When it is quite tender, take it up, and drain and
squeeze it well. Chop it fine, and put it into a sauce-pan with a piece
of butter and a little pepper and salt. Set it on hot coals, and let it
stew five minutes, stirring it all the time.

SPINACH AND EGGS.

Boil the spinach as above, and drain and press it, but do not chop it.
Have ready some eggs poached as follows. Boil in a sauce-pan, and skim
some clear spring water, adding to it a table-spoonful of vinegar.
Break the eggs separately, and having taken the sauce-pan off the fire,
slip the eggs one at a time into it with as much dexterity as you can.
Let the sauce-pan stand by the side of the fire till the white is set,
and then put it over the fire for two minutes. The yolk should be
thinly covered by the white. Take them up with an egg slice, and having
trimmed the edges of the whites, lay the eggs on the top of the
spinach, which should firstly seasoned with pepper and salt and a
little butter, and must be sent to table hot.

TURNIPS.

Take off a thick paring from the outside, and boil the turnips gently
for an hour and a half. Try them with a fork, and when quite tender,
take them up, drain them on a sieve, and either send them to table
whole with melted butter, or mash them in a cullender, (pressing and
squeezing them well;) season with a little pepper and salt, and mix
with them a very small quantity of butter. Setting in the sun after
they are cooked, or on a part of the table upon which the sun may
happen to shine, will give to turnips a singularly unpleasant taste,
and should therefore he avoided.

When turnips are very young, it is customary to serve them up with
about two inches of the green top left on them.

If stewed with meat, they should be sliced or quartered.

Mutton, either boiled or roasted, should always be accompanied by
turnips.

CARROTS.

Wash and scrape them well. If large cut them into two three, or four
pieces. Put them into boiling water with a little salt in it. Full
grown carrots will require three hours’ boiling; smaller ones two
hours, and young ones an hour. Try them with a fork, and when they are
tender throughout, take them up and dry them in a cloth. Divide them in
pieces and split them, or cut them into slices.

Eat them with melted butter. They should accompany boiled beef or
mutton.

PARSNIPS.

Wash, scrape and split them. Put them into a pot of boiling water; add
a little salt, and boil them till quite tender, which will be in from
two to three hours, according to their size. Dry them in a cloth when
done, and pour melted butter over them in the dish. Serve them up with
any sort of boiled meat, or with salt cod.

Parsnips are very good baked or stewed with meat.

RUSSIAN OR SWEDISH TURNIPS

This turnip (the Ruta Baga) is very large and of a reddish yellow
colour; they are generally much liked. Take off a thick paring, cut the
turnips into large pieces, or thick slices, and lay them awhile in cold
water. Then boil them gently about two hours, or till they are quite
soft. When done, drain, squeeze and mash them, and season them with
pepper and salt, and a very little butter. Take care not to set them in
a part of the table where the sun comes, as it will spoil the taste.

Russian turnips should always be mashed.

SQUASHES OR CYMLINGS.

The green or summer squash is best when the outside is beginning to
turn yellow, as it is then less watery and insipid than when younger.
Wash them, cut them into pieces, and take out the seeds. Boil them
about three quarters of an hour, or till quits tender. When done, drain
and squeeze them well till you have pressed out all the water; mash
them with a little butter, pepper and salt. Then put the squash thus
prepared into a stew-pan, set it on hot coals, and stir it very
frequently till it becomes dry. Take care not to let it burn.

WINTER SQUASH, OR CASHAW.

This is much finer than the summer squash. It is fit to eat in August,
and, in a dry warm place, can be kept well all winter. The colour is a
very bright yellow. Pare it, take out the seeds, cut it in pieces, and
stew it slowly till quite soft, in a very little water. Afterwards
drain, squeeze, and press it well, and mash it with a very little
butter, pepper and salt.

PUMPKIN.

Deep coloured pumpkins are generally the best. In a dry warm place they
can be kept perfectly good all winter. When you prepare to stew a
pumpkin, cut it in half and take out all the seeds. Then cut it in
thick slices, and pare them. Put it into a pot with a very little
water, and stew it gently for an hour, or till soft enough to mash.
Then take it out, drain, and squeeze it till it is as dry as you can
get it.

Afterwards mash it, adding a little pepper and salt, and a very little
butter.

Pumpkin is frequently stewed with fresh beef or fresh pork.

The water in which pumpkin has been boiled, is said to be very good to
mix bread with, it having a tendency to improve it in sweetness and to
keep it moist.

HOMINY.

Wash the hominy very clean through three or four waters. Then put it
into a pot (allowing two quarts of water to one quart of hominy) and
boil it slowly five hours. When done, take it up, and drain the liquid
from it through a cullender. Put the hominy into a deep dish, and stir
into it a small piece of fresh butter.

The small grained hominy is boiled in rather less water, and generally
eaten with butter and sugar.

INDIAN CORN.

Corn for boiling should be full grown but young and tender. When the
grains become yellow it is too old. Strip it of the outside leaves and
the silk, but let the inner leaves remain, as they will keep in the
sweetness. Put it into a large pot with plenty of water, and boil it
rather fast for three hours or more. When done, drain off the water,
and remove the leaves.

You may either lay the ears on a large flat dish and send them to table
whole, or broken in half; or you may cut all the com off the cob, and
serve it up in a deep dish, mixed with butter, pepper and salt.

MOCK OYSTERS OF CORN.

Take a dozen and a half ears of large young corn, and grate all the
grains off the cob as fine as possible. Mix with the grated corn three
large table-spoonfuls of sifted flour, the yolks of six eggs well
beaten. Let all be well incorporated by hard beating.

Have ready in a frying-pan an equal proportion of lard and fresh
butter. Hold it over the fire till it is boiling hot, and then put in
portions of the mixture as nearly as possible in shape and size like
fried oysters. Fry them brown, and send them to table hot. They should
be near an inch thick.

This is an excellent relish at breakfast, and may be introduced as a
side dish at dinner. In taste it has a singular resemblance to fried
oysters. The corn must be young.

STEWED EGG PLANT.

The purple egg plants are better than the white ones. Put them whole
into a pot with plenty of water, and simmer them till quite tender.
Then take them out, drain them, and (having peeled off the skins) cut
them up, and mash them smooth in a deep dish. Mix with them some grated
bread, some powdered sweet marjoram, and a large piece of butter,
adding a few pounded cloves. Grate a layer of bread over the top, and
put the dish into the oven and brown it. You must send it to table in
the same dish.

Eggplant is sometimes eaten at dinner, but generally at breakfast.

TO FRY EGG PLANT.

Do not pare your egg plants if they are to be fried, but slice them
about half an inch thick, and lay them an hour or two in salt and water
to remove their strong taste, which to most persons is very unpleasant.
Then take them out, wipe them, and season them, with pepper only. Beat
some yolk of egg; and in another dish grate a sufficiency of
bread-crumbs. Have ready in a frying-pan some lard and batter mixed,
and make it boil. Then dip each slice of egg plant first in the egg,
and then in the crumbs, till both sides are well covered; and fry them
brown, taking care to have them done all through, as the least rawness
renders them very unpalatable.

STUFFED EGG PLANTS.

Parboil them to take off their bitterness. Then slit each one down the
side, and extract the seeds. Have ready a stuffing made of grated
bread-crumbs, butter, minced sweet herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and
beaten yolk of egg. Fill with it the cavity from whence you took the
seeds, and bake the egg plants in a Dutch oven. Serve them up with a
made gravy poured into the dish.

FRIED CUCUMBERS.

Having pared your cucumbers, cut them lengthways into pieces about as
thick as a dollar. Then dry them in a cloth. Season them with pepper
and salt, and sprinkle them thick with flour. Melt some butter in a
frying-pan, and when it boils, put in the slices of cucumber, and fry
them of a light brown. Send them to table hot.

They make a breakfast dish..

TO DRESS CUCUMBERS RAW.

They should be as fresh from the vine as possible, few vegetables being
more unwholesome when long gathered. As soon as they are brought in lay
them in cold water. Just before they are to go to table take them out,
pare them and slice them into a pan of fresh cold water. When they are
all sliced, transfer them to a deep dish, season them with a little
salt and black pepper, and pour over them some of the best vinegar, to
which you may add a little salad oil. You may mix with them a small
quantity of sliced onion; not to be eaten, but to communicate a slight
flavour of onion to the vinegar.

SALSIFY.

Having scraped the salsify roots, and washed them in cold water,
parboil them. Then take them out, drain them, cut them into large
pieces and fry them in butter.

Salsify is frequently stewed slowly till quite tender, and then served
up with melted butter. Or it may be first boiled, then grated, and made
into cakes to be fried in butter.

Salsify must not be left exposed to the air, or it will turn blackish.

ARTICHOKES.

Strip off the coarse outer leaves, and cut off the stalks close to the
bottom. Wash the artichokes well, and let them lie two or three hours
in cold water. Put them with their heads downward into a pot of boiling
water, keeping them down by a plate floated over them. They must boil
steadily from two to three hours; take care to replenish the pot with
additional boiling water as it is wanted. When they are tender all
through, drain them, and serve them up with melted butter.

BEETS.

Wash the beets, but do not scrape or cut them while they are raw; for
if a knife enters them before they are boiled they will lose their
colour. Boil them from two to three hours, according to their size.
When they are tender all through, take them up, and scrape off all the
outside. If they are young beets they are best split down and cut into
long pieces, seasoned with pepper, and sent to table with melted
butter. Otherwise you may slice them thin, after they are quite cold,
and pour vinegar over them.

TO STEW BEETS.

Boil them first, and then scrape and slice them. Put them into a
stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some boiled onion and
parsley chopped fine, and a little vinegar, salt and pepper. Set the
pan on hot coals, and let the beets stew for a quarter of an hour.

TO BOIL GREEN OR FRENCH BEANS.

These beans should be young, tender, and fresh gathered. Remove the
strings with a knife, and take off both ends of the bean. Then cut them
in two or three pieces only; for if split or cut very small, they
become watery and lose much of their taste. They look best when cut
slanting. As you cut them, throw them into a pan of cold water, and let
them lay awhile. Boil them an hour and a half. They must be perfectly
tender before you take them up. Then drain and press them well, season
them with pepper, and mix into them a piece of butter.

SCARLET BEANS.

It is not generally known that the pod of the scarlet bean, if green
and young, is extremely nice when cut into three or four pieces and
boiled. They will require near two hours, and must be drained well, and
mixed as before mentioned with butter and pepper. If gathered at the
proper time, when the seed is just perceptible, they are superior to
any of the common beans.

LIMA BEANS.

These are generally considered the finest of all beans, and should be
gathered young. Shell them, lay them in a pan of cold water, and then
boil them about two hours, or till they are quite soft. Drain them
well, and add to them some butter and a little pepper.

They are destroyed by the first frost, but can be kept during the
winter, by gathering them on a dry day when full grown but not the
least hard, and putting them in their pods into a keg. Throw some salt
into the bottom of the keg, and cover it with a layer of the bean-pods;
then add more salt, and then another layer of beans, till the keg is
full. Press them down with a heavy weight, cover the keg closely, and
keep it in a cool dry place. Before you use them, soak the pods all
night in cold water; the next day shell them, and soak the beans till
you are ready to boil them.

DRIED BEANS.

Wash them and lay them in soak over night. Early in the morning put
them into a pot with plenty of water, and boil them slowly till dinner
time. They will require seven or eight hours to be sufficiently done.
Then take them off, put them into a sieve, and strain off the liquid.

Send the beans to table in a deep dish, seasoned with pepper, and
having a piece of butter mixed with them.

GREEN PEAS.

Green peas are unfit for eating after they become hard and yellowish;
but they are better when nearly full grown than when very small and
young. They should be gathered as short a time as possible before they
are cooked, and laid in cold water as soon as they are shelled. They
will require about an hour to boil soft. When quite done, drain them,
mix with them a piece of butter, and add a little pepper.

Peas may be greatly improved by boiling with them two or three lumps of
loaf-sugar, and a sprig of mint to be taken out before they are dished.
This is an English way of cooking green peas, and is to most tastes a
very good one.

TO BOIL ONIONS.

Take off the tops and tails, and the thin outer skin; but no more lest
the onions should go to pieces. Lay them on the bottom of a pan which
is broad enough to contain them without piling one on another; just
cover them with water, and let them simmer slowly till they are tender
all through, but not till they break.

Serve them up with melted butter.

TO ROAST ONIONS.

Onions are best when parboiled before roasting. Take large onions,
place them on a hot hearth and roast them before the fire in their
skins, turning them as they require it. Then peel them, send them to
table whole, and eat them with butter and salt.

TO FRY ONIONS.

Peel, slice them, and fry them brown in butter or nice dripping.

Onions should be kept in a very dry place, as dampness injures them.

TO BOIL ASPARAGUS.

Large or full grown asparagus is the best. Before you begin to prepare
it for cooking, set on the fire a pot with plenty of water, and
sprinkle into it a handful of salt. Your asparagus should be all of the
same size. Scrape the stalks till they are perfectly nice and white;
cut them all of equal length, and short, so as to leave them but two or
three inches below the green part. To serve up asparagus with long
stalks is now becoming obsolete. As you scrape them, throw them into a
pan of cold water. Then tie them up in small bundles with bass or tape,
as twine will cut them to pieces. When the water is boiling fast, put
in the asparagus, and boil it an hour; if old it will require an hour
and a quarter. When it is nearly done boiling, toast a large slice of
bread sufficient to cover the dish (first cutting off the crust) and
dip it into the asparagus water in the pot. Lay it in a dish, and,
having drained the asparagus, place it on the toast with all the heads
pointed inwards towards the centre, and the stalks spreading outwards.
Serve up melted butter with it.

SEA KALE.

Sea kale is prepared, boiled, and served up in the same manner as
asparagus.

POKE.

The young stalks and leaves of the poke-berry plant when quite small
and first beginning to sprout up from the ground in the spring, are by
most persons considered very nice, and are frequently brought to
market. If the least too old they acquire a strong taste, and should
not be eaten, as they then become unwholesome. They are in a proper
state when the part of the stalk nearest to the ground is not thicker
than small asparagus. Scrape the stalks, (letting the leaves remain on
them,) and throw them into cold water. Then tie up the poke in bundles,
put it into a pot that has plenty of boiling water, and let it boil
fast an hour at least. Serve it up with or without toast, and send
melted butter with, it in a boat.

STEWED TOMATAS.

Peel your tomatas, cut them in half and squeeze out the seeds. Then put
them into a stew-pan without any water, and add to them cayenne and
salt to your taste, (and if you choose,) a little minced onion, and
some powdered mace, Stew them slowly till they are first dissolved and
then dry.

BAKED TOMATAS

Peel some large fine tomatas, cut them up, and take out the seeds. Then
put them into a deep dish in alternate layers with grated bread-crumbs,
and a very little butter in small bits. There must be a large
proportion of bread-crumbs. Season the whole with a little salt, and
cayenne pepper. Set it in an oven, and bake it. In cooking tomatas,
take care not to have them too liquid.

MUSHROOMS.

Good mushrooms are only found in clear open fields where the air is
pure and unconfined. Those that grow in low damp ground, or in shady
places, are always poisonous. Mushrooms of the proper sort generally
appear in August and September, after a heavy dew or a misty night.
They may be known by their being of a pale pink or salmon colour on the
gills or under side, while the top is of a dull pearl-coloured white;
and by their growing only in open places. When they are a day old, or a
few hours after they are gathered, the reddish colour changes to brown.

The poisonous or false mushrooms are of various colours, sometimes of a
bright yellow or scarlet all over; sometimes entirely of a chalky white
stalk, top, and gills.

It is easy to detect a bad mushroom if all are quite fresh; but after
being gathered a few hours the colours change, so that unpractised
persons frequently mistake them.

It is said that if you boil an onion among mushrooms the onion will
turn of a bluish black when there is a bad one among them. Of course,
the whole should then be thrown into the fire. If in stirring
mushrooms, the colour of the silver spoon is changed, it is also most
prudent to destroy them all.

TO STEW MUSHROOMS.

For this purpose the small button mushrooms are best. Wash them clean,
peel off the skin, and cut off the stalks. Put the trimmings into a
small sauce-pan with just enough water to keep them from burning, and,
covering them closely, let them stew a quarter of an hour. Then strain
the liquor, and having put the mushrooms into a clean sauce-pan, (a
silver one, or one lined with porcelain,) add the liquid to them with a
little nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour.
Stew them fifteen minutes, and just before you take them up, stir in a
very little cream or rich milk and some beaten yolk of egg. Serve them
hot. While they are cooking, keep the pan as closely covered as
possible.

If you wish to have the full taste of the mushroom only, after washing,
trimming, and peeling them, put them into a stew-pan with a little salt
and no water. Set them on coals, and stew them slowly till tender,
adding nothing to them but a little butter rolled in flour, or else a
little cream. Be sure to keep the pan well covered.

BROILED MUSHROOMS.

For this purpose take large mushrooms, and be careful to have them
freshly gathered. Peel them, score the under side, and cut off the
stems. Lay them one by one in an earthen pan, brushing them over with
sweet oil or oiled butter, and sprinkling each with a little pepper and
salt. Cover them closely, and let them set for about an hour and a
half. Then place them on a gridiron over clear hot coals, and broil
them on both sides.

Make a gravy for them of their trimmings stewed in a very little water,
strained and thickened with a beaten egg stirred in just before it goes
to table.

BOILED RICE.

Pick your rice clean, and wash it in two cold waters, not draining off
the last water till you are ready to put the rice on the fire. Prepare
a sauce-pan of water with a little salt in it, and when it boils,
sprinkle in the rice. Boil it hard twenty minutes, keeping it covered.
Then take it from the fire, and pour off the water. Afterwards set the
sauce-pan in the chimney-corner with the lid off, while you are dishing
your dinner, to allow the rice to dry, and the grains to separate.

Rice, if properly boiled, should be soft and white, and every grain
ought to stand alone. If badly managed, it will, when brought to table,
be a grayish watery mass.

In most southern families, rice, is boiled every day for the dinner
table, and eaten with the meat and poultry.

The above is a Carolina receipt.

TO DRESS LETTUCE AS SALAD.

Strip off the outer leaves, wash the lettuce, split it in half, and lay
it in cold water till dinner time. Then drain it and put it into a
salad dish. Have ready two eggs boiled hard, (which they will be in
twelve minutes,) and laid in a basin of cold water for five minutes to
prevent the whites from turning blue. Cut them in half, and lay them on
the lettuce.

Put the yolks of the eggs on a large plate, and with a wooden spoon
mash them smooth, mixing with them a table-spoonful of water, and two
table-spoonfuls of sweet oil. Then add, by degrees, a salt-spoonful of
salt, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and a tea-spoonful of powdered
loaf-sugar. When these are all smoothly united, add very gradually
three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. The lettuce having been cut up fine
on another plate, put it to the dressing, and mix it well.

If you have the dressing for salad made before a dinner, put it into
the bottom of the salad dish; then (having cut it up) lay the salad
upon it, and let it rest till it is to be eaten, as stirring it will
injure it.

You may decorate the top of the salad with slices of red beet, and with
the hard white of the eggs cut into rings.

CELERY.

Scrape and wash it well, and let it lie in cold water till shortly
before it goes to table; then dry it in a cloth, trim it, and split
down the stalks almost to the bottom, leaving on a few green leaves.
Send it to table in a celery glass, and eat it with salt only; or chop
it fine, and make a salad dressing for it.

RADISHES.

To prepare radishes for eating, wash them and lay them in clean cold
water as soon as they are brought in. Shortly before they go to table,
scrape off the thin outside skin, trim the sharp end, cut off the
leaves at the top, leaving the stalks about an inch long, and put them
on a small dish. Eat them with salt.

Radishes should not be eaten the day after they are pulled, as they are
extremely unwholesome if not quite fresh.

The thick white radishes, after being scraped and trimmed, should be
split or cleft in four, half way down from the top.

TO ROAST CHESTNUTS.

The large Spanish chestnuts are the best for roasting. Cut a slit in
the shell of every one to prevent their bursting when hot. Put them
into a pan, and set them over a charcoal furnace till they are
thoroughly roasted; stirring them up frequently and taking care hot to
let them burn. When they are done, peel off the shells, and send the
chestnuts to table wrapped up in a napkin to keep them warm.

Chestnuts should always be roasted or boiled before they are eaten.

GROUND-NUTS.

These nuts are never eaten raw. Put them, with their shells on, into an
iron pan, and set them in an oven; or you may do them in a skillet on
hot coals. A large quantity may be roasted in an iron pot over the
fire. Stir them frequently, taking one out from time to time, and
breaking it to try if they are done.



EGGS, ETC.


TO KEEP EGGS.

There is no infallible mode of ascertaining the freshness of an egg
before you break it, but unless an egg is perfectly good, it is unfit
for any purpose whatever, and will spoil whatever it is mixed with. You
may judge with tolerable accuracy of the state of an egg by holding it
against the sun or the candle, and if the yolk, as you see it through
the shell, appears round, and the white thin and clear, it is most
probably a good one; but if the yolk looks broken, and the white thick
and cloudy, the egg is certainly bad. You may try the freshness of eggs
by putting them into a pan of cold water. Those that sink the soonest
are the freshest; those that are stale or addled will float on the
surface.

There are various ways of preserving eggs. To keep them merely for
plain boiling, you may parboil them for one minute, and then bury them
in powdered charcoal with their small ends downward. They will keep a
few days in ajar of salt; but do not afterwards use the salt in which
they have been immersed.

They are frequently preserved for two or three months by greasing them
all over, when quite fresh, with melted mutton suet, and then wedging
them close together (the small end downwards) in a box of bran, layer
above layer; the box must be closely covered.

Another way (and a very good one) is to put some lime in a large
vessel, and slack it with boiling water, till it is of the consistence
of thin cream; you may allow a gallon of water to a pound of lime. When
it is cold, pour it off into a large stone jar, put in the eggs, and
cover the jar closely. See that the eggs are always well covered with
the lime-water, and lest they should break, avoid moving the jar. If
you have hens of your own, keep a jar of lime-water always ready, and
put in the eggs as they are brought in from the nests. Jars that hold
about six quarts are the most convenient.

It will be well to renew the lime-water occasionally.

TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST.

The fresher they are the longer time they will require for boiling. If
you wish them quite soft, put them into a sauce-pan of water that is
boiling hard at the moment, and let them remain in it five minutes. The
longer they boil the harder they will be. In ten minutes’ fast boiling
they will be hard enough for salad.

If you use one of the tin egg-boilers that are placed on the table, see
that the water is boiling hard at the time you put in the eggs. When
they have been in about four or five minutes, take them out, pour off
the water, and replace it by some more that is boiling hard; as, from
the coldness of the eggs having chilled the first water, they will not
otherwise be done enough. The boiler may then be placed on the table,
(keeping the lid closed,) and in a few minutes more they will be
sufficiently cooked to be wholesome.

TO POACH EGGS.

Pour some boiling water out of a tea kettle through a clean cloth
spread over the top of a broad stew-pan; for by observing this process
the eggs will be nicer and more easily done than when its impurities
remain in the water. Set the pan with the strained water on hot coals,
and when it boils break each egg separately into a saucer. Remove the
pan from the fire, and slip the eggs one by one into the surface of the
water. Let the pan stand till the white of the eggs is set; then place
it again on the coals, and as soon as the water boils again, the eggs
will be sufficiently done. Take them out carefully with an egg-slice,
and trim off all the ragged edges from the white, which should thinly
cover the yolk. Have ready some thin slices of buttered toast with the
crust cut off. Lay them in the bottom of the dish, with a poached egg
on each slice of toast, and send them to the breakfast table.

FRICASSEED EGGS.

Take a dozen eggs, and boil them six or seven minutes, or till they are
just hard enough to peel and slice without breaking. Then put them into
a pan of cold water while you prepare some grated bread-crumbs,
(seasoned with pepper, salt and nutmeg,) and beat the yolks of two or
three raw eggs very light. Take the boiled eggs out of the water, and
having peeled off the shells, slice the eggs, dust a little flour over
them, and dip them first into the beaten egg, and then into the
bread-crumbs so as to cover them well on both sides. Have ready in a
frying-pan some boiling lard; put the sliced eggs into it, and fry them
on both sides. Serve them up at the breakfast table, garnished with
small sprigs of parsley that has been fried in the same lard after the
eggs were taken out.

PLAIN OMELET.

Take six eggs, leaving out the whites of two. Beat them very light, and
strain them through a sieve. Add pepper and salt to your taste. Divide
two ounces of fresh butter into little bits, and put it into the egg.
Have ready a quarter of a pound of butter in a frying-pan, or a flat
stew-pan. Place it on hot coals, and have the butter boiling when you
put in the beaten egg. Fry it gently till of a light brown on the under
side. Do not turn it while cooking as it will do better without. You
may brown the top by holding a hot shovel over it. When done, lay it in
the dish, double it in half, and stick sprigs of curled parsley over
it.

You may flavour the omelet by mixing with the beaten egg some parsley
or sweet herbs minced fine, some chopped celery, or chopped onion,
allowing two moderate sized onions to an omelet of six eggs. Or what is
still better, it may be seasoned with veal kidney or sweet-bread
minced; with cold ham shred as fine as possible; or with minced
oysters, (the hard part omitted,) with tops of asparagus (that has been
previously boiled) cut into small pieces.

You should have one of the pans that are made purposely for omelets.

AN OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.

Break eight eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, and strain them.
Put the whites into one pan, and the yolks into another, and beat them
separately with rods till the yolks are very thick and smooth, and the
whites a stiff froth that will stand alone. Then add gradually to the
yolks, three quarters of a pound of the finest powdered loaf-sugar, and
orange-flower water or lemon-juice to your taste. Next stir the whites
lightly into the yolks. Butter a deep pan or dish (that has been
previously heated) and pour the mixture rapidly into it. Set it in a
Butch oven with coals under it, and on the top, and bake it five
minutes. If properly beaten and mixed, and carefully baked, it will
rise very high. Send it immediately to table, or it will fall and
flatten.

Do not begin to make an omelette soufflé till the company at table have
commenced their dinner, that it may be ready to serve up just in time,
immediately on the removal of the meats. The whole must be accomplished
as quickly as possible, and it must be cut and sent round directly that
it is brought to table.

If you live in a large town, the safest way of avoiding a failure in an
omelette soufflé is to hire a French cook to come to your kitchen with
his own utensils and ingredients, and make and bake it himself, while
the first part of the dinner is progressing in the dining room.

An omelette soufflé is a very nice and delicate thing when properly
managed; but if flat and heavy it should not be brought to table.

TO DRESS MACCARONI.

Have ready a pot of boiling water. Throw a little salt into it, and
then by slow degrees put in a pound of the maccaroni, a little at a
time. Keep stirring it gently, and continue to do so very often while
boiling. Take care to keep it well covered with water. Have ready a
kettle of boiling water to replenish the maccaroni pot if it should be
in danger of getting too dry. In about twenty minutes it will be done.
It must be quite soft, but it must not boil long enough to break.

When the maccaroni has boiled sufficiently, pour in immediately a
little cold water, and let it stand a few minutes, keeping it covered.

Grate half a pound of Parmesan cheese into a deep dish, and scatter
over it a few small bits of butter. Then with a skimmer that is
perforated with holes, commence taking up the maccaroni, (draining it
well,) and spread a layer of it over the cheese and butter. Spread over
it another layer of grated cheese and butter, and then a layer of
maccaroni and so on till your dish is full; having a layer of maccaroni
on the top, over which spread some butter without cheese. Cover the
dish, and set it in an oven for half an hour. It will then be ready to
send to table.

You may grate some nutmeg over each, layer of maccaroni.

Allow half a pound of butter to a pound of maccaroni and half a pound
of cheese.



PICKLING


GENERAL REMARKS.

Never on any consideration use brass, copper, or bell-metal settles for
pickling; the verdigris produced in them by the vinegar being of a most
poisonous nature. Kettles lined with porcelain are the best, but if you
cannot procure them, block tin may be substituted. Iron is apt to
discolour any acid that is boiled in it.

Vinegar for pickles should always be of the very best kind. In putting
away pickles, use stone, or glass jars. The lead which is an ingredient
in the glazing of common earthenware, is rendered very pernicious by
the action of the vinegar. Have a large wooden spoon and a fork, for
the express purpose of taking pickles out of the jar when you want them
for the table. See that, while in the jar, they are always completely
covered with vinegar. If you discern in them any symptoms of not
keeping well, do them over again in fresh vinegar and spice.

Vinegar for pickles should only boil five or six minutes.

The jars should be stopped with large flat corks, fitting closely, and
having a leather or a round piece of oil-cloth tied over the cork.

It is a good rule to have two-thirds of the jar filled with pickles,
and one-third with vinegar.

Alum is very useful in extracting the salt taste from pickles, and in
making them firm and crisp. A very small quantity is sufficient. Too
much will spoil them.

In greening pickles keep them very closely covered, so that none of the
steam may escape; as its retention promotes their greenness and
prevents the flavour from evaporating.

Vinegar and spice for pickles should be boiled but a few minutes. Too
much boiling takes away the strength.

TO PICKLE CUCUMBERS.

Cucumbers for pickling should be very small, and as free from spots as
possible. Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg.
Pour it over your cucumbers, cover them with fresh cabbage leaves, and
let them stand for a week, or till they are quite yellow, stirring them
at least twice a day. When they are perfectly yellow, pour off the
water. Take a porcelain kettle, and cover the bottom and sides with
fresh vine leaves. Put in the cucumbers (with a small piece of alum)
and cover them closely with vine leaves all over the top, and then with
a dish or cloth to keep in the steam. Fill up the kettle with clear
water, and hang it over the fire when dinner is done, but not where
there is a blaze. The fire under the kettle must be kept very moderate.
The water must not boil, or be too hot to bear your hand in. Keep them
over the fire in a slow heat till next morning. If they are not then of
a fine green, repeat the process. When they are well greened, take them
out of the kettle, drain them on a sieve, and put them into a clean
stone jar. Boil for five or six minutes sufficient of the best vinegar
to cover the cucumbers well; putting into the kettle a thin muslin bag
filled with cloves, mace, and mustard seed. Pour the vinegar scalding
hot into the jar of pickles, which should be secured with a large flat
cork, and an oil-cloth or leather cover tied over it. Another way to
green pickles is to cover them with vine leaves or cabbage leaves, and
to keep them on a warm, hearth pouring boiling water on them five or
six times a day; renewing the water as soon as it becomes cold.

In proportioning the spice to the vinegar, allow to every two quarts,
an ounce of mace, two dozen cloves, and two ounces of mustard seed. You
may leave the muslin bag, with the spice, for about a week in the
pickle jar to heighten the flavour, if you think it necessary.

GREEN PEPPERS.

May be done in the same manner as cucumbers, only extracting the seeds
before you put the pickles into the salt and water. Do not put peppers
into the same jar with cucumbers, as the former will destroy the
latter.

GHERKINS.

The gherkin is a small thick oval-shaped species of cucumber with a
hairy or prickly surface, and is cultivated solely for pickling. It is
customary to let the stems remain on them. Wipe them dry, put them into
a broad stone jar, and scald them five or six times in the course of
the day with salt and water strong enough to bear an egg, and let them
set all night. This will make them yellow. Next day, having drained
them from the salt and water, throw it out, wipe them dry, put them
into a clean vessel (with a little piece of alum,) and scald them with
boiling vinegar and water, (half and half of each,) repeating it
frequently during the day till they are green. Keep them as closely
covered as possible. Then put them away in stone jars, mixing among
them whole mace and sliced ginger to your taste. Fill up with cold
vinegar, and add a little alum, allowing to every hundred gherkins a
piece about the size of a shelled almond. The alum will make them firm
and crisp.

RADISH PODS.

Gather sprigs or bunches of radish pods while they are young and
tender, but let the pods remain on the sprigs; it not being the custom
to pick them off. Put them into strong salt and water, and let them
stand two days. Then drain and wipe them and put them into a clean
stone jar. Boil an equal quantity of vinegar and water. Pour it over
the radish pods while hot, and cover them closely to keep in the steam.
Repeat this frequently through the day till they are very green. Then
pour off the vinegar and water, and boil for five minutes some very
strong vinegar, with a little bit of alum, and pour it over them. Put
them into a stone jar, (and having added some whole mace, whole pepper,
a little tumeric and a little sweet oil,) cork it closely, and tie over
it a leather or oil-cloth.

GREEN BEANS.

Take young green or French beans; string them, but do not cut them in
pieces. Pat them in salt and water for two days, stirring them
frequently. Then put them into a kettle with vine or cabbage leaves
under, over, and all round them, (adding a little piece of alum.) Cover
them closely to keep in the steam, and let them hang over a slow fire
till they are a fine green.

Having drained them in a sieve, make for them a pickle of strong
vinegar, and boil in it for five minutes, some mace, whole pepper, and
sliced ginger tied up in a thin muslin bag. Pour it hot upon the beans,
put them into a stone jar, and tie them up.

PARSLEY.

Make a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg, and throw
into it a large quantity of curled parsley, tied up in little bunches
with a thread. After it has stood a week (stirring it several times a
day) take it out, drain it well, and lay it for three days in cold
spring or pump-water, changing the water daily. Then scald it in hard
water, and hang it, well covered, over a slow fire till it becomes
green. Afterwards take it out, and drain and press it till quite dry.

Boil for five minutes a quart of strong vinegar with a small bit of
alum, a few blades of mace, a sliced nutmeg, and a few slips of
horseradish. Pour it on the parsley, and put it away in a stone jar.

MANGOES.

Take very young oval shaped musk-melons. Cut a round piece out of the
top or side of each, (saving the piece to put on again,) and extract
the seeds. Then (having tied on the pieces with packthread) put them
into strong salt and water for two days. Afterwards drain and wipe
them, put them into a kettle with vine leaves or cabbage leaves under
and over them, and a little piece of alum, and hang them on a slow fire
to green; keeping them closely covered to retain the steam, which will
greatly accelerate the greening. When they are quite green, have ready
the stuffing, which must be a mixture of scraped horseradish, white
mustard seed, mace and nutmeg pounded, race ginger cut small, pepper,
tumeric and sweet oil. Fill your mangoes with this mixture, putting a
small clove of garlic into each, and replacing the pieces at the
openings; tie them with a packthread crossing backwards and forwards
round the mango. Put them into stone jars, pour boiling vinegar over
them, and cover them well. Before you put them on the table remove the
packthread.

NASTURTIANS.

Have ready a stone or glass jar of the best cold vinegar. Take the
green seeds of the nasturtian after the flower has gone off. They
should be full-grown but not old. Pick off the stems, and put the seeds
into the vinegar. No other preparation is necessary, and they will keep
a year with nothing more than sufficient cold vinegar to cover them.
With boiled mutton they are an excellent substitute for capers.

MORELLA CHERRIES.

See that all your cherries are perfect. Remove the stems, and put the
cherries into a jar or glass with sufficient vinegar to cover them
well. They will keep perfectly in a cool dry place.

They are very good, always retaining the taste of the cherry. If you
cannot procure morellas, the large red pie-cherries may be substituted.

PEACHES.

Take, fine large peaches (either cling or free stones) that are not too
ripe. Wipe off the down with a clean flannel, and put the peaches whole
into a stone jar. Cover them with cold vinegar of the best kind, in
which you have dissolved a little of salt, allowing a table-spoonful to
a quart of vinegar. Put a cork in the jar and tie leather or oil-cloth
over it.

Plums and grapes may be pickled thus in cold vinegar, but without salt.

BARBERRIES.

Have ready a jar of cold vinegar, and put into it ripe barberries in
bunches. They make a pretty garnish for the edges of dishes.

TO PICKLE GREEN PEPPERS.

The bell pepper is the best for pickling, and should be gathered when
quite young. Slit one side, and carefully take out the core, so as not
to injure the shell of the pepper. Then put them into boiling salt and
water, changing the water every day for one week, and keeping them
closely covered in a warm place near the fire. Stir them several times
a day. They will first become yellow, and then green. When they are a
fine green put them into a jar, and pour cold vinegar over them, adding
a small piece of alum.

They require no spice.

You may stuff the peppers as you do mangoes.

TO PICKLE BUTTERNUTS.

These nuts are in the best state for pickling when the shell is soft,
and when they are so young that the outer skin can be penetrated by the
head of a pin. They should be gathered when the sun is hot upon them.

If you have a large quantity, the easiest way to prepare them for
pickling is to put them into a tub with sufficient lye to cover them,
and to stir and rub them about with a hickory broom, till they are
clean and smooth on the outside. This is much less trouble than
scraping them, and is not so likely to injure the nuts. Another method
is to scald them, and then to rub off the outer skin. Put the nuts into
strong salt and water for nine or ten days; changing the water every
other day, and keeping them closely covered from the air. Then drain
and wipe them, (piercing each nut through in several places with a
large needle,) and prepare the pickle as follows:—For a hundred large
nuts, take of black pepper and ginger root of each an ounce; and of
cloves, mace and nutmeg of each a half ounce. Pound all the spices to
powder, and mix them well together, adding two large spoonfuls of
mustard seed. Put the nuts into jars, (having first stuck each of them
through in several places with a large needle,) strewing the powdered
seasoning between every layer of nuts. Boil for five minutes a gallon
of the best white wine vinegar, and pour it boiling hot upon the nuts.
Secure the jars closely with corks and leathers. You may begin to eat
the nuts in a fortnight.

Walnuts may be pickled in the same manner.

TO PICKLE WALNUTS BLACK.

The walnuts should he gathered while young and soft, (so that you can
easily run a pin through them,) and when the sun is upon them. Rub them
with a coarse flannel or tow cloth to get off the fur of the outside.
Mix salt and water strong enough to bear an egg, and let them lie in it
nine days, (changing it every two days,) and stirring them, frequently.
Then take them out, drain them, spread them on large dishes, and expose
them to the air about ten minutes, which will cause them to blacken the
sooner. Scald them in boiling water, (but do not let them lie in it,)
and then rub them with a coarse woollen cloth, and pierce everyone
through in several places with a large needle, (that the pickle may
penetrate them thoroughly.) Put them into stone jars, and prepare the
spice and vinegar. To a hundred walnuts allow a gallon of vinegar, an
ounce of cloves, an ounce of allspice, an ounce of black pepper, half
an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of nutmeg. Boil the spice in the
vinegar for five or six minutes; then, strain the vinegar, and pour it
boiling hot over the walnuts. Tie up in a thin muslin rag, a tea-cupful
of mustard seed, and a large table-spoonful of scraped horseradish, and
put it into the jars with the walnuts. Cover them closely with corks
and leathers.

Another way of pickling walnuts black, is (after preparing them as
above) to put them into jars with the spices pounded and strewed among
them, and then to pour over them strong cold vinegar.

WALNUTS PICKLED WHITE.

Take large young walnuts while their shells are quite soft so that you
can stick the head of a pin into them. Pare them very thin till the
white appears; and as you do them, throw them into spring or pump water
in which some salt has been dissolved. Let them stand in that water six
hours, with a thin board upon them to keep them down under the water.
Fill a porcelain kettle with fresh spring water, and set it over a
clear fire, or on a charcoal furnace. Put the walnuts into the kettle,
cover it, and let them simmer (but not boil) for five or six minutes.
Then have ready a vessel with cold spring water and salt, and put your
nuts into it, taking them out of the kettle with a wooden ladle. Let
them stand in the cold salt and water for a quarter of an hour, with
the board keeping them down as before; for if they rise above the
liquor, or are exposed to the air, they will be discoloured. Then take,
them out, and lay them on a cloth covered with another, till they are
quite dry. Afterwards rub them carefully with a soft flannel, and put
them into a stone jar; laying among them blades of mace, and sliced
nutmeg, but no dark-coloured spice. Pour over them the best distilled
vinegar, and put on the top a table-spoonful of sweet oil.

WALNUTS PICKLED GREEN.

Gather them while the shells are very soft, and rub them all with a
flannel. Then wrap them singly in vine leaves, lay a few vine leaves in
the bottom of a large stone jar, put in the walnuts, (seeing that each
of them is well wrapped up so as not to touch one another,) and cover
them with a thick layer of leaves. Fill up the jar with strong vinegar,
cover it closely, and let it stand three weeks. Then pour off the
vinegar, take out the walnuts, renew all the vine leaves, fill up with
fresh vinegar, and let them stand three weeks longer. Then again pour
off the vinegar, and renew the vine leaves. This time take the best
white wine vinegar; put salt in it till it will bear an egg, and add to
it mace, sliced nutmeg, and scraped horseradish, in the proportion of
an ounce of each and a gallon of vinegar to a hundred walnuts. Boil the
spice and vinegar about eight minutes, and then pour it hot on the
walnuts. Cover the jar closely with a cork and leather, and set it
away, leaving the vine leaves with the walnuts. When you take any out
for use, disturb the others as little as possible, and do not put back
again any that may be left.

You may pickle butternuts green in the same manner.

TO PICKLE ONIONS.

Take very small onions, and with a sharp knife cut off the stems as
close as possible, and peel off the outer skin. Then put them into salt
and water, and let them stand in the brine for six days; stirring them
daily, and changing the salt and water every two days. See that they
are closely covered. Then put the onions into jars, and give them a
scald in boiling salt and water. Let them stand till they are cold;
then drain them on a sieve, wipe them, stick a clove in the top of each
and put them into wide-mouthed bottles; dispersing among them some
blades of mace and slices of ginger or nutmeg. Fill up the bottles with
the best white wine vinegar, and put at the top a large spoonful of
salad oil. Cork the bottles well.

ONIONS PICKLED WHITE.

Peel some very small white onions, and lay them for three days in salt
and water changing the water every day. Then wipe them, and put them
into a porcelain kettle with equal quantities of milk and water,
sufficient to cover them well. Simmer them over a slow fire, but when
just ready to boil take them off, and drain and dry them, and put them
into wide-mouthed glass bottles; interspersing them with blades of
mace. Boil a sufficient quantity of distilled white wine vinegar to
cover them and fill up the bottles, adding to it a little salt; and
when it is cold, pour it into the bottles of onions. At the top of each
bottle put a spoonful of sweet oil. Set them away closely corked.

TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS WHITE.

Take small fresh-gathered button mushrooms, peel them carefully with a
penknife, and cut off the stems; throwing the mushrooms into salt and
water as you do them. Then put them into a porcelain skillet of fresh
water, cover it closely, and set it over a quick fire. Boil it as fast
as possible for seven or eight minutes, not more. Take out the
mushrooms, drain them, and spread them on a clean board, with the
bottom or hollow side of each mushroom turned downwards. Do this as
quickly as possible, and immediately, while they are hot, sprinkle them
over with salt. When they are cold, put them into a glass jar with
slight layers of mace and sliced ginger. Fill up the jar with cold
distilled or white wine vinegar. Put a spoonful of sweet oil on the top
of each jar, and cork it closely.

MUSHROOMS PICKLED BROWN.

Take a quart of large mushrooms and (having trimmed off the stalks) rub
them with a flannel cloth dipped in salt. Then lay them in a pan of
allegar or ale vinegar, for a quarter of an hour, and wash them about
in it. Then pat them into a sauce-pan with a quart of allegar, a
quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of allspice and whole pepper,
and a tea-spoonful of salt. Set the pan over coals, and let the
mushrooms stew slowly for ten minutes, keeping the pan well covered.
Then take them off, let them get cold by degrees, and put them into
small bottles with the allegar strained from the spice and poured upon
them.

It will be prudent to boil an onion with the mushrooms, and if it turns
black or blueish, you may infer that there is a poisonous one among
them; and they should therefore be thrown away. Stir them for the same
reason, with a silver spoon.

TO PICKLE TOMATAS.

Take a peck of tomatas, (the small round ones are best for pickling,)
and prick every one with a fork. Put them into a broad stone or earthen
vessel, and sprinkle salt between every layer of tomatas. Cover them,
and let them remain three days in the salt. Then put them into vinegar
and water mixed in equal quantities, half and half, and keep them in it
twenty-four hours to draw out the saltness. There must be sufficient of
the liquid to cover the tomatas well.

To a peck of tomatas allow a bottle of mustard, half an ounce of
cloves, and half an ounce of pepper, with a dozen onions sliced thin.
Pack the tomatas in a stone jar, placing the spices and onions
alternately with the layers of tomatas. Put them in till the jar is
two-thirds fall. Then fill it up with strong cold vinegar, and stop it
closely. The pickles will be fit to eat in a fortnight.

If you do not like onions, substitute for them a larger quantity of
spice.

TOMATA SOY.

For this purpose you must have the best and ripest tomatas, and they
must be gathered on a dry day. Do not peel them, but merely cut them
into slices. Having strewed some salt over the bottom of a tub, put in
the tomatas in layers; sprinkling between each layer (which, should be
about two inches in thickness) a half pint of salt. Repeat this till
you have put in eight quarts or one peck of tomatas. Cover the tub and
let it set for three days. Then early in the morning, put the tomatas
into a large porcelain, kettle, and boil it slowly and steadily till
ten at night, frequently mashing and stirring the tomatas. Then put it
out to cool. Next morning strain and press it through a sieve, and when
no more liquid will pass through, put it into a clean kettle with two
ounces of cloves, one ounce of mace, two ounces of blade pepper, and
two table-spoonfuls of cayenne, all powdered.

Again let it boil slowly and steadily all day, and put it to cool in
the evening in a large pan. Cover it, and let it set all night. Next
day put it into small bottles, securing the corks by dipping them in
melted rosin, and tying leathers over them.

If made exactly according to these directions, and slowly and
thoroughly boiled, it will keep for years in a cool dry place, and may
be used for many purposes when fresh tomatas are not to be had.

TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS.

Take the whitest and closest full-grown cauliflowers; cut off the thick
stalk, and split the blossom or flower part into eight or ten pieces.
Spread them oh a large dish, sprinkle them with salt, and let them
stand twenty-four hours. Then wash off the salt, drain them, put them
into a broad flat jar or pan, scald them with salt and water, (allowing
a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water,) cover them closely
and let them stand in the brine till next day. Afterwards drain them in
a hair sieve, and spread them on a cloth in a warm place to dry for a
day and a night. Then put them carefully, piece by piece, into clean
broad jars and pour over them a pickle which has been prepared as
follows:—Mix together three ounces of coriander seed, three ounces of
turmeric, one ounce of mustard seed, and one ounce of ginger. Pound the
whole in a mortar to a fine powder. Put it into three quarts of the
best white wine vinegar, set it by the side of the fire in a stone jar,
and let it infuse three days. These are the proportions, but the
quantity of the whole pickle must depend on the quantity of
cauliflower, which must he kept well covered by the liquid. Pour it
over the cauliflower, and secure the jars closely from the air.

You may pickle brocoli in the same manner. Also the green tops of
asparagus.

TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE.

Take a fine firm cabbage of a deep red or purple colour. Strip off the
outer leaves, and cut out the stalk. Quarter the cabbage lengthways,
and then slice it crossways. Lay it in a deep dish, sprinkle a handful
of salt over it, cover it with another dish, and let it lie twenty-four
hours. Then drain it in a cullender from the salt, and wipe it dry.
Make a pickle of sufficient white wine vinegar to cover the cabbage
well, adding to it equal quantities of cloves and allspice, with some
mace. The spices must be put in whole, with a little cochineal to give
it a good red colour. Boil the vinegar and spices hard for five
minutes, and having put the cabbage into a stone jar, pour the vinegar
over it boiling hot. Cover the jar with a cloth till it gets cold; and
then put in a large cork, and tie a leather over it.

COLD SLAW.

[Footnote: This receipt was accidentally omitted in its proper place.]

Take a nice fresh cabbage, wash and drain it, and cut off all the
stalk. Shave down the head into very small slips, with a cabbage
cutter, or a very sharp knife. It must be done evenly and nicely. Put
it into a deep china dish, and prepare for it the following dressing.
Melt in a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, with half a pint of
water, a large table-spoonful of vinegar, a salt-spoon of salt, and a
little cayenne. Give this a boil up, and pour it hot upon the cabbage.

Send it to table as soon as it is cold.

WARM SLAW.

Cut the cabbage into shavings as for cold slaw; (red cabbage is best;)
and put it into a deep earthen dish. Cover it closely, and set it on
the top of a stove, or in a slack oven for half an hour till it is warm
all through; but do not let it get so heated as to boil. Then make a
mixture as for cold slaw, of a quarter of a pound of butter, half a
pint of water, a little salt and cayenne, and add to it a clove of
garlic minced fine. Boil this mixture in a sauce-pan, and pour it hot
over the warm cabbage. Send it to table immediately.

This is a French method of dressing cabbage.

EAST INDIA PICKLE.

This is a mixture of various things pickled together, and put into the
same jar.

Have ready a small white cabbage, sliced, and the stalk removed; a
cauliflower cut into neat branches, leaving out the large stalk; sliced
cucumbers; sliced carrots; sliced beets, (all nicked round the edges;)
button-onions; string-beans; radish pods; barberries; cherries; green
grapes; nasturtians; capsicums; bell-peppers, &c. Sprinkle all these
things with salt, put them promiscuously into a large earthen pan, and
pour scalding salt and water over them. Let them lie in the brine for
four days, turning them all over every day. Then take them out, wash
each thing separately in vinegar, and wipe them carefully in a cloth.
Afterwards lay them on sieves before the fire and dry them thoroughly.

For the pickle liquor.—To every two quarts of the best vinegar, put an
ounce and a half of white ginger root, scraped and sliced; the same of
long pepper; two ounces of peeled shalots, or little button-onions, cut
in pieces; half an ounce of peeled garlic; an ounce of-turmeric; and
two ounces of mustard seed bruised, or of mustard powder. Let all these
ingredients, mixed with the vinegar, infuse in a close jar for a week,
setting in a warm place, or by the fire. Then (after the vegetables
have been properly prepared, and dried from the brine) put them all
into one large stone jar, or into smaller jars, and strain the pickle
over them. The liquid must be in a large quantity, so as to keep the
vegetables well covered with it, or they will spoil. Put a
table-spoonful of sweet oil on the top of each jar, and secure them
well with a large cork and a leather.

If you find that after awhile the vegetables have absorbed the liquor,
so that there is danger of their not having a sufficiency, prepare some
more seasoned vinegar and pour it over them.

East India pickle is very convenient, and will keep two years. As
different vegetables come into season, you can prepare them with the
salt and water process, and add them to the things already in the jar.
You may put small mangoes into this pickle; also plums, peaches and
apricots.

TO PICKLE OYSTERS FOR KEEPING.

For this purpose take none but the finest and largest oysters. After
they are opened, separate them from their liquor, and put them into a
bucket or a large pan, and pour boiling water upon them to take out the
slime. Stir them about in it, and then take them out, and rinse them
well in cold water. Then put them into a large kettle with fresh water,
barely enough to cover them, (mixing with it a table-spoonful of salt
to every hundred oysters,) and give them a boil up, just sufficient to
plump them. Take them, out, spread them on large dishes or on a clean
table, and cover them with a cloth. Take the liquor of the oysters, and
with every pint of it mix a quart of the best vinegar, a table-spoonful
of salt, a table-spoonful of whole cloves, the same of whole black
pepper, and a tea-spoonful of whole mace. Put the liquid over the fire
in a kettle, and when it boils throw in the oysters, and let them
remain in it five minutes. Then take the whole off the fire, stir it up
well, and let it stand to get quite cold. Afterwards (if you have a
large quantity) put it into a keg, which must first be well scalded, (a
new keg is best,) and fill it as full as it can hold. Do not put a
weight on the oysters to keep them down in the liquor, as it will crush
them to pieces if the keg should be moved or conveyed to a distance. If
you have not enough to fill a keg, put them into stone jars when they
are perfectly cold, and cover them securely.



SWEETMEATS.


GENERAL REMARKS.

The introduction of iron ware lined with porcelain has fortunately
almost superseded the use of brass or bell-metal kettles for boiling
sweetmeats; a practice by which the articles prepared in those
pernicious utensils were always more or less imbued with the
deleterious qualities of the verdigris that is produced in them by the
action of acids.

Charcoal furnaces will be found very convenient for preserving; the
kettles being set on the top. They can be used in the open air.
Sweetmeats should be boiled rather quickly, that the watery particles
may exhale at once, without being subjected to so long a process as to
spoil the colour and diminish the flavour of the fruit. But on the
other hand, if boiled too short a time they will not keep so well.

If you wish your sweetmeats to look bright and clear, use only the very
best loaf-sugar. Fruit may be preserved for family use and for common
purposes, in sugar of inferior quality, but it will never have a good
appearance, and it is also more liable to spoil.

If too small a proportion of sugar is allowed to the fruit, it will
_certainly_ not keep well. When this experiment is tried it is
generally found to be false economy; as sweetmeats, when they begin to
spoil, can only be recovered and made eatable by boiling them over
again with additional sugar; and even then, they are never so good as
if done properly at first. If jellies have not sufficient sugar, they
do not congeal, but will remain liquid.

Jelly bags should be made of white flannel. It is well to have a wooden
stand or frame like a towel horse, to which the bag can be tied while
it is dripping. The bag should first be dipped in hot water, for if dry
it will absorb too much of the juice. After the liquor is all in, close
the top of the bag, that none of the flavour may evaporate.

In putting away sweetmeats, it is best to place them in small jars, as
the more frequently they are exposed to the air by opening the more
danger there is of their spoiling. The best vessels for this purpose
are white queen’s-ware pots, or glass jars. For jellies, jams, and for
small fruit, common glass tumblers are very convenient, and may be
covered simply with double tissue-paper, cut exactly to fit the inside
of the top of the glass, laid lightly on the sweetmeat, and pressed
down all round with the finger. This covering, if closely and nicely
fitted, will be found to keep them perfectly well, and as it adheres so
closely as to form a complete coat over the top, it is better for
jellies or jams than writing-paper dipped in brandy, which is always
somewhat shrivelled by the liquor with which it has been saturated.

If you find that your sweetmeats have become dry and candied, you may
liquefy them again by setting the jars in water and making it boil
round them.

In preserving fruit whole, it is best to put it first in a thin syrup.
If boiled in a thick syrup at the beginning, the juice will be drawn
out so as to shrink the fruit.

It is better to boil it but a short time at once, and then to take it
out and let it get cold, afterwards returning it to the syrup, than to
keep it boiling; too long at a time, which will cause it to break and
lose its shape.

Preserving kettles should be rather broad than deep, for the fruit
cannot be done equally if it is too much heaped. They should all have
covers belonging to them, to put on after the scum has done rising that
the flavour of the fruit may be kept in with the steam.

A perforated skimmer pierced all through with holes is a very necessary
utensil in making sweetmeats.

The water used for melting the sugar should be very clear; spring or
pump water is best. but if you are obliged to use river water, let it
first be filtered. Any turbidness or impurity in the water will injure
the clearness of the sweetmeats.

If sweetmeats ferment in the jars, boil them over again with additional
sugar.

CLARIFIED SUGAR SYRUP.

Take eight pounds of the best double-refined loaf-sugar, and break it
up or powder it. Have ready the whites of two eggs, beaten to a strong
froth. Stir the white of egg gradually into two quarts of very clear
spring or pump water. Put the sugar into a porcelain kettle, and mix
with it the water and white of egg. While the sugar is melting, stir it
frequently; and when it is entirely dissolved, put the kettle over a
moderate fire, and let it boil, carefully taking off the scum as it
comes to the top, and pouring in a little cold water when you find the
syrup rising so as to run over the edge of the kettle. It will be well
when it first boils hard to pour in half a pint of cold water to keep
down the bubbles so that the scum may appear, and be easily removed.
You must not however boil it to candy height, so that the bubbles will
look like hard pearls, and the syrup will harden in the spoon and hang
from it in strings; for though very thick and clear it must continue
liquid. When it is done, let it stand till it gets quite cold; and if
you do not want it for immediate use, put it into bottles and seal the
corks.

When you wish to use this syrup for preserving, you have only to put
the fruit into it, and boil it till tender and clear, but not till it
breaks. Large fruit that is done whole, should first be boiled tender
in a very thin syrup that it may not shrink. Small fruit, such as
raspberries, strawberries, grapes, currants, gooseberries, &c. may, if
perfectly ripe, be put raw into strong cold sugar syrup; they will thus
retain their form and colour, and then freshness and natural taste.
They must be put into small glass jars, and kept well covered with the
syrup. This, however, is an experiment which sometimes fails, and had
best be tried on a scale, or only for immediate use.

TO PRESERVE GINGER.

Take root of green ginger, and pare it neatly with a sharp knife,
throwing it into a pan of cold water as you pare it. Then boil it till
tender all through, changing the water three times. Each time put on
the ginger is quite cold water to lake out the excessive heat. When it
is perfectly tender, throw it again into a pan of cold water, and let
it lie an hour or more; this will make it crisp. In the mean time
prepare the syrup. For every six pounds of ginger root, clarify seven
pounds of the best double-refined loaf-sugar. Break up the sugar, put
it into a preserving kettle, and melt it in spring or pump water, (into
which you have stirred gradually the beaten white of two eggs,)
allowing a pint of water to each pound of sugar. Boil and skim it well.
Then let the syrup stand till it is cold; and having drained the
ginger, pour the syrup over it, cover it, and do not disturb it for two
days. Then, having poured it from the ginger, boil the syrup over
again. As soon as it is cold, pour it again on the ginger, and let it
stand at least three days. Afterwards boil the syrup again, and pour it
_hot_ over the ginger. Proceed in this manner till you find that the
syrup has thoroughly penetrated the ginger, (which you may ascertain by
its taste and appearance when you cut a piece off,) and till the syrup
becomes very thick and rich. Then put it all into jars, and cover it
closely.

If you put the syrup hot to the ginger at first, it will shrink and
shrivel. After the first time, you have only to boil and reboil the
syrup; as it is not probable that it will require any further
clarifying if carefully skimmed. It will be greatly improved by adding
some lemon-juice at the close of the last boiling.

TO PRESERVE CITRONS.

Pare off the outer skin of some fine citrons, and cut them into
quarters. Take out the middle. You may divide each quarter into several
pieces. Lay them for four or five hours in salt and water. Take them
out, and then soak them in spring or pump water (changing it
frequently) till all the saltness is extracted, and till the last water
tastes perfectly fresh. Boil a small lump of alum, and scald them in
the alum-water. It must be very weak, or it will communicate an
unpleasant taste to the citrons; a lump the size of a hickory nut will
suffice for six pounds. Afterwards simmer them two hours with layers of
green vine leaves. Then make a syrup, allowing a pint of water to each
pound of loaf-sugar; boil and skim it well. When it is quite clear, put
in the citrons, and boil them slowly, till they are so soft that a
straw will pierce through them without breaking. Afterwards put them
into a large dish, and set them in the sun to harden.

Prepare some lemons, by paring off the yellow rind very thin, and
cutting it into slips of uniform size and shape. Lay the lemon-rind in
scalding water, to extract the bitterness. Then take the pared lemons,
cut them into quarters, measure a half pint of water to each lemon, and
boil them to a mash. Strain the boiled lemon through a sieve, and to
each pint of liquid allow a pound of the best double-refined
loaf-sugar, for the second syrup. Melt the sugar in the liquid, and
stir into it gradually some beaten white of egg; allowing one white to
four pounds of sugar. Then set it over the fire; put the lemon-peel
into the syrup, and let it boil in it till quite soft. Put the citrons
cold into a glass jar, and pour the hot syrup over them. Let the lemon
remain with the citrons, as it will improve their flavour.

If you wish the citrons to be candied, boil down the second syrup to
candy height, (that is, till it hangs in strings from the spoon,) and
pour it over the citrons. Keep them well covered. You may, if you
choose, after you take the citrons from the alum-water, give them a
boil in very weak ginger tea, made of the roots of green ginger if you
can procure it; if not, of race ginger. Powdered ginger will not do at
all. This ginger tea will completely eradicate any remaining taste of
the salt or the alum. Afterwards cover the sides and bottom of the pan
with vine leaves, put a layer of leaves between each layer of citron,
and cover the top with leaves. Simmer the citrons in this two hours to
green them.

In the same manner you may preserve water-melon rind, or the rind of
cantelopes. Cut these rinds into stars, diamonds, crescents, circles,
or into any fanciful shape you choose. Be sure to pare off the outside
skin before you put the rinds into the salt and water.

Pumpkin cut into slips, may be preserved according to the above
receipt.

CANTELOPES OR MUSK-MELONS.

Take very small cantelopes before they are ripe. Shave a thin paring
off the whole outside. Cut out a small piece or plug about an inch
square, and through it extract all the seeds, &c. from the middle.
Then, return the plugs to the hole from whence you took them, and
secure them with a needle and thread, or by tying a small string round
the cantelope.

Lay the cantelopes for four or five hours in salt and water. Then put
them into spring water to extract the salt, changing the water till you
find it salt no longer. Scald them in weak alum-water. Make a syrup in
the proportion of a pint of water to a pound of loaf-sugar, and boil
the cantelopes in it till a straw will go through them. Then take them
out, and set them in the sun to harden.

Prepare some fine ripe oranges, paring off the yellow rind very thin,
and cutting it into slips, and then laying it in scalding water to
extract the bitterness. Cut the oranges into pieces; allow a pint of
water to each orange, and boil them to a pulp. Afterwards strain them,
and allow to each pint of the liquid, a pound of the best loaf-sugar,
and stir in a little beaten white of egg; one white to four pounds of
sugar. This is for the second syrup. Boil the peel in it, skimming it
well. When the peel is soft, take it all out; for if left among the
cantelopes, it will communicate to it too strong a taste of the orange.

Put the cantelopes into your jars, and pour over them the hot syrup.
Cover them closely, and keep them in a dry cool place.

Large cantelopes may be prepared for preserving (after you have taken
off the outer rind) by cutting them into pieces according to the
natural divisions with which they are fluted. This receipt for
preserving cantelopes whole, will do very well for green lemons or
limes, substituting lemon-peel and lemon-juice for that of oranges in
the second syrup.

You may use some of the first syrup to boil up the pulp of the orange
or lemons that has been left. It will make a sort of marmalade, that is
very good for colds.

PRESERVED WATER-MELON RIND.

Having pared off the green skin, cut the rind of a water-melon into
pieces of any shape you please; stars, diamonds, circles, crescents or
leaves, using for the purpose a sharp penknife. Weigh the pieces, and
allow to each pound a pound and a halt of loaf sugar. Set the sugar
aside, and put the pieces of melon-rind into a preserving kettle, the
bottom and sides of which you, have lined with green vine leaves. Put a
layer of vine leaves between each, layer of melon-rind, and cover the
top with leaves. Disperse among the pieces some very small bits of
alum, each about the bigness of a grain of corn, and allowing one bit
to every pound of the melon-rind. Pour in just water enough to cover
the whole, and place a thick double cloth (or some other covering) over
the top of the kettle to keep in the steam, which will improve the
greening. Let it simmer (but not boil) for two hours. Then take out the
pieces of melon-rind and spread them on dishes to cool. Afterwards if
you find that they taste of the alum, simmer them in very weak ginger
tea for about three hours. Then proceed to make your syrup. Melt the
sugar in clear spring or pump water, allowing a pint of water to a
pound and a half of sugar, and mixing in with it some white of egg
beaten to a stiff froth. The white of one egg will be enough for four
pounds of sugar. Boil and skim it; and when the scum ceases to rise,
put in the melon-rind, and let it simmer an hour. Take it out and
spread it to cool on dishes return it to the syrup, and simmer it
another hour. After this take it out, and put it into a tureen. Boil up
the syrup again, and pour it over the melon-rind. Cover it, and let it
stand all night. Next morning give the syrup another boil; adding to It
some lemon-juice, allowing the juice of one lemon to a quart of the
syrup. When you find it so thick as to hang in a drop on the point of
the spoon, it is sufficiently done. Then put the rind into glass jars,
pour in the syrup, and secure the sweetmeats closely from the air with
paper dipped in brandy, and a leather outer cover.

This, if carefully done and well greened, is a very nice sweetmeat, and
may be used to ornament the top of creams, jellies, jams by laying it
round in rings or wreaths.

Citrons may be preserved green in the same manner, first paring off the
outer skin and cutting them into quarters. Also green limes.

PRESERVED PEPPERS.

For this purpose take the small round peppers while they are green.
With a sharp penknife extract the seeds and cores; and then put the
outsides into a kettle with vine leaves, and a little alum to give them
firmness, and assist in keeping them green. Proceed precisely as
directed for the water-melon rind, in the above receipt.

PUMPKIN CHIPS.

It is best to defer making this sweetmeat (which will be found very
fine) till late in the season when lemons are ripe and are to be had in
plenty. Pumpkins (as they keep well) can generally be procured at any
time through the winter.

Take a fine pumpkin, of a rich deep colour, pare off the outer rind;
remove the seeds; and having sliced the best part, cut it into chips of
equal size, and about as thick as a half dollar. They should be in long
narrow pieces, two inches in breadth, and six in length. It is best to
prepare the pumpkin the day before; and having weighed the chips, allow
to each pound of them a pound of the best loaf-sugar. You must have
several dozen of fine ripe lemons, sufficient to furnish a jill of
lemon-juice to each pound of pumpkin. Having rolled them under your
hand on a table, to make them yield as much juice as possible, pare off
the yellow rind and put it away for some other purpose. Then having cut
the lemons, squeeze out all the juice into a pitcher. Lay the pumpkin
chips in a large pan or tureen, strewing the sugar among them. Then
having measured the lemon-juice in a wine-glass, (two common
wine-glasses making one jill,) pour it over the pumpkin and sugar,
cover the vessel, and let it stand all night.

Next day transfer the pumpkin, sugar, and lemon-juice to n preserving
kettle, and boil it slowly three quarters of an hour, or till the
pumpkin becomes all through tender, crisp, and transparent; but it must
not be over the fire long enough to break and lose its form. You must
skim it thoroughly. Some very small pieces of the lemon-paring may be
boiled with it. When you think it is done, take up the pumpkin chips in
a perforated skimmer that the syrup may drain through the holes back
into the kettle. Spread the chips to cool on large dishes, and pass the
syrup through a flannel bag that has been first dipped in hot water.
When the chips are cold, put them into glass jars or tumblers, pour in
the syrup, and lay on the top white paper dipped in brandy. Then tie up
the jars with leather, or with covers of thick white paper.

If you find that when cold the chips are not perfectly clear, crisp,
and tender, give them another boil in the syrup before you put them up.

This, if well made, is a handsome and excellent sweetmeat It need not
be eaten with cream, the syrup being so delicious as to require nothing
to improve it. Shells of puff-paste first baked empty, and then filled
with, pumpkin chips, will be found very nice.

Musk-melon chips may be done in the same manner.

TO PRESERVE PINE-APPLES.

Take fine large pine-apples; pare them, and cut off a small round piece
from the bottom, of each; let the freshest and. best of the top leaves
remain on. Have ready on a slow fire, a large preserving kettle with a
thin syrup barely sufficient to cover the fruit. In making this syrup
allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar to every quart of water, and half the
white of a beaten egg; all to be mixed before it goes on the fire. Then
boil and skim it, and when the scum ceases to rise, put in the
pine-apples, and simmer them slowly an hour. Then take them out to
cool, cover them carefully and pat them away till next day; saving the
syrup in another vessel. Next day, put them into the same syrup, and
simmer them again an hour. On the third day, repeat the process. The
fourth day, make a strong fresh syrup, allowing but a pint of water to
each pound of sugar, and to every three pounds the beaten white of one
egg. When this syrup has boiled, and is completely skimmed, put in the
pine-apples, and simmer them half an hour. Then take them out to cool,
and set them aside till next morning. Boil them again, half an hour in
the same syrup, and repeat this for seven or eight days, or till you
can pierce through the pine-apple with a straw from a corn-broom. At
the last of these boilings enrich the syrup by allowing to each pound
of sugar a quarter of a pound more; and, having boiled and skimmed it,
put in the pine apples for half an hour. Then take them out, and when
quite cold put each into a separate glass jar, and fill up with the
syrup.

Pine apples may be preserved in slices by a very simple process. Pare
them, and out them into round pieces near an inch thick, and take out
the core from the centre of each slice. Allow a pound of loaf-sugar to
every pound of the sliced pine-apple. Powder the sugar, and strew it in
layers between the slices of pine-apple. Cover it and let it set all
night. Next morning measure some clear spring or pump water, allowing
half a pint to each pound of sugar. Beat some white of egg, (one white
to four pounds of sugar,) and when it is a very stiff froth, stir it
gradually into the water. Then mix with it the pine-apple and sugar,
and put the whole into a preserving kettle. Boil and skim it well, till
the pine-apple is tender and bright all through. Then take it out, and
when cold, put it up in wide-mouthed glass jars, or in large tumblers.

TO PREPARE FRESH PINE-APPLES.

Cut off the top and bottom and pare off the rind. Then cut the
pine-apples in round slices half an inch thick, and put them into a
deep dish, sprinkling every slice with powdered loaf-sugar. Cover them,
and let them lie in the sugar for an hour or two, before they are to be
eaten.

PRESERVED LEMONS.

Take large fine ripe lemons, that have no blemishes. Choose those with
thin, smooth rinds. With a sharp, knife scoop a hole in the stalk end
of each, large enough to admit the handle of a tea-spoon. This hole is
to enable the syrup to penetrate the inside of the lemons. Put them
into a preserving kettle with clear water, and boil them gently till
you find them tender, keeping the kettle uncovered. Then take them oat,
drain, and cool them, and put them into a small tub. Prepare a thin
syrup of a pound of loaf-sugar to a quart of water. When you have
boiled and skimmed it, pour it over the lemons and cover them. Let them
stand in the syrup till next day. Then poor the syrup from the lemons,
and spread them on a large dish. Boil it a quarter of an hour, and pour
it over them again, having first returned them to the tub. Cover them,
and let them again stand till next day, when you must again boil the
syrup and pour it over them. Repeat this process every day till you
find that the lemons are quite clear, and that the syrup has penetrated
them thoroughly. If you find the syrup becoming too weak, add a little
more sugar to it. Finally, make a strong syrup in the proportion of
half a pint of water to a pound of sugar, adding a jill of raw
lemon-juice squeezed from fresh lemons, and allowing to every four
pounds of sugar the beaten white of an egg. Mix all well together in
the kettle. Boil and skim it, and when the scum ceases to rise, pour
the syrup boiling hot over the lemons; and covering them closely, let
them stand undisturbed for four days. Then look at them, and if you
find that they have not sucked in enough of the syrup to make the
inside very sweet, boil them gently in the syrup for a quarter of an
hour. When they are cold, put them up in glass jars.

You may green lemons by burying them in a kettle of vine leaves when
you give them the first boiling in the clear water.

Limes may be preserved by this receipt; also oranges.

To prepare fresh oranges for eating, peel and cut them in round slices
and remove the seeds. Strew powdered loaf-sugar over them. Cover them
and let them stand an hour before they are eaten.

ORANGE MARMALADE.

Take fine large ripe oranges, with thin deep-coloured skins. Weigh
them, and allow to each pound of oranges a pound of loaf-sugar. Pare
off the yellow outside of the rind from half the oranges as thin as
possible; and putting it into a pan with plenty of cold water, cover it
closely (placing a double cloth beneath the tin cover) to keep in the
steam, and boil it slowly till it is so soft that the head of a pin
will pierce it. In the mean time grate the rind from the remaining
oranges, and put it aside; quarter the oranges, and take out all the
pulp and the juice; removing the seeds and core. Put the sugar into a
preserving kettle, with a half pint of clear water to each pound, and
mix it with some beaten white of egg, allowing one white of egg, to
every four pounds of sugar. When the sugar is all dissolved, put it on
the fire, and boil and skim it till it is quite clear and thick. Next
take the boiled parings, and cut them into very small pieces, not more
than, half an inch long; put them into the sugar, and boil them in it
ten minutes. Then put in the pulp and juice of the oranges, and the
grated rind, (which will much improve the colour,) and boil all
together for about twenty minutes, till it is a transparent mass. When
cold, pot it up in glass jars, laying brandy paper on the top.

Lemon marmalade may be made in a similar manner, but you must allow a
pound and a half of sugar to each pound of lemons.

ORANGE JELLY.

Take fourteen large ripe oranges, and grate the yellow rind from seven
of them. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in as much warm water as will
cover it. Mix the juice with a pound of loaf-sugar broken up, and add
the grated, rind and the isinglass. Put it into a porcelain pan over
hot coals and stir it till it boils. Then, skim it well. Boil it ten
minutes, and strain it (but do not squeeze it) through a jelly-bag till
it is quite clear. Put it into a mould to congeal, and when you want to
turn it out dip the mould into lukewarm water. Or you may put it into
glasses at once.

You must have a pint of juice to a pound of sugar.

A few grains of saffron boiled with the jelly will improve the colour
without affecting the taste.

PRESERVED PEACHES.

Take large juicy ripe peaches; free-stones are the best, as they have a
finer flavour than the cling-stones, and are much more manageable both
to preserve, and to eat. Pare them, and cut them in half, or in
quarters, leaving out the stones, the half of which you must save. To
every pound of the peaches allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Powder the
sugar, and strew it among your peaches. Cover them and let them stand
all night. Crack half the peach-stones, break them up, put them into a
small sauce-pan and boil them slowly in as much water as will cover
them. Then when the water is well flavoured with the peach-kernels,
strain them out, and set the water aside. Take care not to use too much
of the kernel-water; a very little will suffice. Put the peaches into a
preserving kettle, and boil them in their juice over a quick fire;
(adding the kernel-water,) and skimming them all the time. When they
are quite clear, which should be in half an hour, take them off, and
put them into a tureen. Boil the syrup five minutes longer, and pour it
hot over the peaches. When they are cool, put them into glass jars, and
tie them up with paper dipped in brandy laid next to them.

Apricots, nectarines, and large plums maybe preserved in the same
manner.

PEACHES FOR COMMON USE.

Take ripe free-stone peaches; pare, stone, and quarter them. To six
pounds of the cut peaches allow three pounds of the best brown sugar.
Strew the sugar among the peaches, and set them away. Next morning add
a handful of peach leaves, put the whole into a preserving kettle, and
boil it slowly about an hour and three quarters, or two hours, skimming
it well. When cold, put it up in jars and keep it for pies, or for any
common purpose.

BRANDY PEACHES.

Take large white or yellow free-stone peaches, the finest you can
procure. They must not be too ripe. Rub off the down with a flannel,
score them down the seam with a large needle, and prick every peach to
the stone in several places. Scald them with boiling water, and let
them remain in the water till it becomes cold, keeping them well
covered. Repeat the scalding three times: it is to make them white.
Then wipe them, and spread them on a soft table-cloth, covering them
over with several folds. Let them remain in the cloth to dry.
Afterwards put them into a tureen, or a large jar, and pour on as much
white French brandy as will cover them well. Carefully keep the air
from them, and let them remain in the brandy for a week. Then make a
syrup in the usual manner, allowing to each pound of peaches a pound of
loaf-sugar and half a pint of water mixed with a very little beaten
white of egg; one white to three or four pounds of sugar.

When the syrup has boiled, and been well skimmed, put in the peaches
and boil them slowly till they look clear; but do not keep them boiling
more than half an hour. Then take them out, drain them, and put them
into large glass jars. Mix the syrup, when it is cold, with the brandy
in which you had the peaches, and pour it over them. Instead of
scalding the peaches to whiten them, you may lay them for an hour in
sufficient cold weak lye to cover them well. Turn them frequently while
in the lye, and wipe them dry afterwards.

Pears and apricots may be preserved in brandy, according to the above
receipt. The skin of the pears should he taken off, but the stems left
on.

Large egg plums may be preserved in the same manner.

Another way of preparing brandy peaches is, after rubbing off the down
and pricking them, to put them into a preserving kettle with cold
water, and simmer them slowly till they become hot all through; but
they must not be allowed to boil. Then dry them in a cloth, and let
them lie till they are cold, covering them closely from the air.
Dissolve loaf-sugar in the best white brandy, (a pound of sugar to a
quart of brandy,) and having put the peaches into large glass jars,
pour the brandy and sugar over them (without boiling) and cover the
jars well with leather.

Pears, apricots, and egg plums may also be done in this manner.


PEACH MARMALADE.

Take ripe yellow free-stone peaches; pare, stone, and quarter them. To
each pound of peaches, allow three quarters of a pound of powdered
loaf-sugar, and half an ounce of bitter almonds, or peach-kernels
blanched in scalding water, and pounded smooth in a mortar. Scald the
peaches in a very little water, mash them to a pulp, mix them with the
sugar and pounded-almonds, and put the whole into a preserving kettle.
Let it boil to a smooth thick jam, skimming and stirring it well, and
keeping the pan covered as much as possible. Fifteen minutes will
generally suffice for boiling it. When cold, put it up in glass jars.

Plum marmalade may be made in this manner, flavouring it with pounded
plum-kernels.

PEACH JELLY.

Take fine juicy free-stone peaches and pare and quarter them. Scald
them in a very little water, drain and mash them, and squeeze the juice
through a jelly-bag. To every pint of juice allow a pound of
loaf-sugar, and a few of the peach-kernels. Having broken up the
kernels and boiled them by themselves for a quarter of an hour in just
as much water as will cover them, strain off the kernel-water, and add
it to the juice. Mix the juice with the sugar, and when it is melted,
boil them together fifteen minutes, till it becomes a thick jelly. Skim
it well when it boils. Try the jelly by taking a little in a spoon and
holding it in the open air to see if it congeals. If you find, that
after sufficient boiling, it still continues thin, you can make it
congeal by stirring in an ounce or more of isinglass, dissolved and
strained. When the jelly is done, put it into tumblers, and lay on the
top double tissue paper cut exactly to fit the inside of the glass;
pressing it down with your fingers.

You may make plum jelly in the same manner, allowing a pound and a half
of sugar to a pint of juice.

TO PRESERVE APRICOTS.

Take ripe apricots; scald them, peel them, cut them in half, and
extract the stones. Then weigh the apricots, and to each pound allow a
pound of loaf-sugar. Put them into a tureen or large pan, in alternate
layers of apricots and sugar; cover them, and let them stand all night.
Next morning put all together into a preserving kettle, and boil them
moderately a quarter of an hour. Then take them out, spread them on
dishes, and let them stand till next day. Then boil them again in the
same syrup another quarter of an hour. Afterwards, spread them out to
cool, put them into glass jars, and pour the syrup over them. Peaches
may be preserved in the same manner. Also large plums or green gages;
but to the plums you must allow additional sugar.

TO DRY PEACHES.

The best peaches for drying are juicy free-stones. They must be quite
ripe. Cut them in half, and take out the stones. It is best not to pare
them; as dried peaches are much richer with the skin on, and it
dissolves and becomes imperceptible when they are cooked. Spread them
out in a sunny balcony or on a scaffold, and let them dry gradually
till they become somewhat like leather; always bringing them in at
sunset, and not putting them out if the weather is damp or cloudy. They
may also be dried in kilns or large ovens.

Apples are dried in the same manner, except that they must be pared and
quartered.

Cherries also may be dried in the sun, first taking out all the stones.
None but the largest and best cherries should be used for drying.

TO PRESERVE QUINCES.

Take large, yellow, ripe quinces, and having washed and wiped them,
pare them and extract the cores. Quarter the quinces, or cut them into
round slices an inch thick, and lay them in scalding water (closely
covered) for an hour, or till they are tender. This will prevent them
from hardening, Put the parings, cores, and seeds into a preserving
kettle, cover them with the water in which you coddled the quinces, and
boil them an hour, keeping them closely covered all the time. To every
pint of this liquor allow a pound of loaf-sugar; and having dissolved
the sugar in it, put it over the fire in the preserving kettle. Boil it
up and skim it, and when the scum has ceased rising, put in the
quinces, and boil them till they are red, tender, and clear all
through, but not till they break. Keep the kettle closely covered while
the quinces are in it, if you wish to have them bright coloured. You
may improve the colour by boiling with them a little cochineal sifted
through a muslin rag.

When they are done, take them out, spread them on large dishes to cool,
and then put them into glasses. Give the syrup another boil up, and it
will be like a fine jelly. Pour it hot over the quinces, and when cold,
tie up the jars with brandy paper.

TO PRESERVE QUINCES WHOLE.

Take those that are large, smooth, and yellow; pare them and extract
the cores, carefully removing all the blemishes. Boil the quinces in a
close kettle with the cores and parings, in sufficient water to cover
them. In half an hour take, them out, spread them to cool, and add to
the cores and parings some small inferior quinces cut in quarters, but
not pared or cored; and pour in some more water, just enough to boil
them. Cover the pan, and let them simmer for an hour. Then take it off,
strain the liquid, measure it, and to each quart allow a pound of
loaf-sugar. Put the sugar to melt in the liquid, and let it set all
night. Next day boil the quinces in it for a quarter of an hour, and
then take them out and cool them, saving the syrup. On the following
day repeat the same; and the fourth day add a quarter of a pound more
sugar to each pint of the syrup, and boil the quinces in it twelve
minutes. If by this time they are not tender, bright, and transparent
all through, repeat the boiling.

When they are quite done, put quince jelly or marmalade into the holes
from whence you took the cores; put the quinces into glass jars and
pour the syrup over them. If convenient, it is a very nice way to put
up each quince in a separate tumbler.

QUINCE JELLY.

Take fine ripe yellow quinces, wash them and remove all the blemishes,
cut them in pieces, but do not pare or core them. Put them into a
preserving-pan with clear spring water. If you, are obliged to use
river water, filter it first; allowing one pint to twelve large
quinces. Boil them gently till they are all soft and broken. Then put
them into a jelly-bag, and do not squeeze it till after the clear
liquid has ceased running. Of this you must make the _best_ jelly,
allowing to each pint a pound of loaf-sugar. Having dissolved the sugar
in the liquid, boil them together about twenty minutes, or till you
have a thick jelly.

In the meantime, squeeze out all that is left in the bag. It will not
be clear, but you can make of it a very good jelly for common purposes.

QUINCE MARMALADE.

Take six pounds of ripe yellow quinces; and having washed them clean,
pare and core them, and cut them into small pieces. To each pound of
the cut quinces allow half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put the
parings and cores into a kettle with water enough to cover them, and
boil them slowly till they are all to pieces, and quite soft. Then
having put the quinces with the sugar into a porcelain preserving
kettle, strain over them, through a cloth, the liquid from the parings
and cores. Add a little cochineal powdered, and sifted through thin
muslin. Boil the whole over a quick fire till it becomes a thick smooth
mass, keeping it covered except when you are skimming it; and always
after skimming, stir it up well from the bottom.

When cold, put it up in glass jars. If you wish to use it soon, put it
warm into moulds, and when if is cold, set the moulds in lukewarm
water, and the marmalade will turn out easily.

QUINCE CHEESE.

Have fine ripe quinces, and pare and core them. Cut them into pieces,
and weigh them; and to each pound of the cut quinces, allow half a
pound of the best brown sugar. Pat the cores and parings into a kettle,
with water enough to cover them, keeping the lid of the kettle closed.
When you find that they are all boiled to pieces and quite soft, strain
off the water over the sugar, and when it is entirely dissolved, put it
over the fire and boil it to a thick syrup, skimming it well. When no
more scum rises, put in the quinces, cover them closely, and boil them
all day over a slow fire, stirring them and mashing them down with a
spoon till they are a thick smooth paste. Then take it out, and put it
into buttered tin pans or deep dishes. Let it set to get cold. It will
then turn out so firm that you may cut it into slices like cheese. Keep
it in a dry place in broad stone pots. It is intended for the
tea-table.

PRESERVED APPLES.

Take fine ripe pippin or bell-flower apples. Pare and core them, and
either leave them whole, or cut them into quarters. Weigh them, and to
each pound of apples allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put the apples into a
stew-pan with just water enough to cover them, and let them boil slowly
for about half an hour. They must be only parboiled. Then strain the
apple water over the sugar into a preserving kettle, and when the sugar
is melted put it on the fire with the yellow rind of some lemons pared
thin, allowing four lemons lo a dozen apples. Boil the syrup till clear
and thick, skimming; it carefully; then put in the apples, and after
they have boiled slowly a quarter of an hour, add the juice of the
lemons. Let it boil about fifteen minutes longer, or till the apples
are tender and clear, but not till they break. When they are cold, put
them into jars, and covering them closely, let them set a week. At the
end of that time give them another boil in the same syrup; apples being
more difficult to keep than any other fruit.

You may colour them red by adding, when you boil them in the syrup, a
little cochineal.

BAKED APPLES.

Take a dozen fine large juicy apples, and pare and core them; but do
not cut them in pieces. Put them side by side into a large baking-pan,
and fill up with brown sugar the holes from whence you have extracted
the cores. Pour into each a little lemon-juice, or a few drops of
essence of lemon, and stick in every one a long piece of lemon-peel
evenly cut. Into the bottom of the pan put a very little water, just
enough to prevent the apples from burning. Bake them about an hour, or
till they are tender all through, but not till they break. When, done,
set them away to get cold.

If closely covered they will keep, two days. They may be eaten at tea
with cream. Or at dinner with a boiled custard poured over them. Or you
may cover them with, sweetened cream flavored with a little essence of
lemon, and whipped to a froth. Heap the froth over every apple so as to
conceal them entirely.

APPLE JELLY.

Take twenty large ripe juicy pippins. Pare, core, and chop them to
pieces. Put them into a jar with the yellow rind of four lemons, pared
thin and cut into little bits Cover the jar closely, and set it into a
pot of hot water Keep the water boiling hard all round it till the
apples are dissolved, Then strain them through a jelly-bag, and mix
with the liquid the juice of the lemons. To each pint of the. mixed
juice allow a pound of loaf-sugar. Put them into a porcelain kettle,
and when the sugar is melted, set it on the fire, and boil and skim it
for about twenty minutes, or till it becomes a thick jelly. Put it into
tumblers, and cover it with double tissue paper nicely fitted to the
inside of the top. The red or Siberian crab apple makes a delicious
jelly, prepared in the above manner.

APPLE BUTTER.

This is a compound of apples and cider boiled together till of the
consistence of soft butter. It is a very good article on the tea-table,
or at luncheon. It can only be made of sweet new cider fresh from the
press, and not yet fermented.

Fill a very large kettle with cider, and boil it till reduced to one
half the original quantity. Then have ready some fine juicy apples,
pared, cored, and quartered; and put as many into the kettle as can be
kept moist by the cider. Stir it frequently, and when the apples are
stewed quite soft, take them out with a skimmer that has holes in it,
and put them into a tub. Then add more apples to the cider, and stew
them soft in the same manner, stirring them nearly all the time with a
stick. Have at hand some more cider ready boiled, to thin the apple
butter in case you should find it too thick in the kettle.

If you make a large quantity, (and it is not worth while to prepare
apple butter on a small scale,) it will take a day to stew the apples.
At night leave them to cool in the tubs, (which must be covered with
cloths,) and finish next day by boiling the apple and cider again till
the consistence is that of soft marmalade, and the colour a very dark
brown.

Twenty minutes or half an hour before you finally take it from the
fire, add powdered cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg to your taste. If the
spice is boiled too long, it will lose its flavour.

When it is cold, put it into stone jars, and cover it closely. If it
has been well made, and sufficiently boiled, it will keep a year or
more.

It must not he boiled in a brass or bell-metal kettle, on account of
the verdigris which the acid will collect in it, and which will render
the apple butter extremely unwholesome, not to say, poisonous.

TO PRESERVE GREEN CRAB APPLES.

Having washed your crab apples, (which should be full grown,) cover the
bottom and sides of your preserving kettle with vine leaves, and put
them in; spreading a thick layer of vine leaves over them. Fill up the
kettle with cold, water, and hang it over a slow fire early in the
morning; simmer them slowly, but do not allow them to boil. When they
are quite yellow, take them out, peel off the skin with a penknife, and
extract the cores very neatly.. Put them again into the kettle with
fresh vine leaves and fresh water, and hang them again over a slow fire
to simmer, but not to boil. When they have remained long enough in the
second vine leaves to become green, take them out, weigh them, and
allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar to each pound of crab apples.
Then after the kettle has been well washed and wiped, put them into it
with a thick layer of sugar between each layer of apples, and about
half a pint of water, for each pound and a half of sugar. You may add
the juice and yellow peel of some lemons. Boil them gently till they
are quite clear and tender throughout. Skim them well, and keep the
kettle covered when you are not skimming. When done, spread them on
large dishes to cool, and then tie them up in glass jars with brandy
papers.

TO PRESERVE RED CRAB APPLES.

Take red or Siberian crab apples when they are quite ripe and the seeds
are black. Wash and wipe them, and put them into a kettle with
sufficient water to cover them. Simmer them very slowly till you find
that the skin will come off easily. Then take them out and peel and
core them; extract the cores carefully with a small knife, so as not to
break the apples. Then weigh them, and to every pound of crab apples
allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar and a half pint of water. Put
the sugar and water into a preserving kettle, and when they are melted
together, set it over the fire and let it boil. After skimming it once,
put in the crab apples, adding a little cochineal powder rubbed with a
knife into a very small quantity of white brandy till it has dissolved.
This will greatly improve the colour of the apples. Cover them and let
them boil till clear and tender, skimming the syrup when necessary.
Then spread them out on dishes, and when they are cold, put them into
glass jars and pour the syrup over them.

The flavour will be greatly improved by boiling with them in the syrup,
a due proportion of lemon-juice and the peel of the lemons pared thin
so as to have the yellow part only. If you use lemon-juice put a
smaller quantity of water to the sugar. Allow one large lemon or two
smaller ones to each pound of crab apples.

If you find that after they have been kept awhile, the syrup inclines
to become dry or candied, give it another boil with the crab apples in
it, adding a tea-cup full of water to about three or four pounds of the
sweetmeat.

TO PRESERVE GREEN GAGES.

Take large fine green gages that are not perfectly ripe. Weigh them,
and to each pound of fruit allow a pound and a half of loaf-sugar. Put
a layer of fresh vine leaves at the bottom of a porcelain preserving
kettle, place on it a layer of gages, then cover them with a layer of
vine leaves, and so on alternately, finishing with a layer of leaves at
the top. Fill up the kettle with hard water, and set it over a slow
fire. When the gages rise to the top, take them out and peel them,
putting them on a sieve as you do so. Then replace them in the kettle
with fresh vine leaves and water; cover them very closely, so that no
steam can escape, and hang them up at some distance above the fire to
green slowly for six hours. They should be warm all the time, but must
not boil. When they are a fine green, take them carefully out, spread
them on a hair sieve to drain, and make a syrup of the sugar, allowing
a half pint of water to each pound and a half of sugar. When it has
boiled and been skimmed, put in the green gages and boil them gently
for a quarter of an hour. Then take them out and spread them to cool.
Next day boil them in the same syrup for another quarter of an hour.
When cold, put them into glass jars with the syrup, and tie them up
with brandy paper.

To preserve them whole without peeling, you must prick each at the top
and bottom, with a large needle.

TO PRESERVE PLUMS.

Take fine ripe plums; weigh them, and to each pound allow a pound and a
half of loaf-sugar. Put them into a pan, and scald them in boiling
water to make the skins come off easily. Peel them, and throw them as
you do so into a large china pitcher. Let them set for an hour or two,
and then take them out, saving all the juice that has exuded from them
while in the pitcher. Spread the plums out on large dishes, and cover
them with half the sugar you have allotted to them, (it must be
previously powdered,) and let them lie in it all night. Next morning
pour the juice out of the pitcher into a porcelain preserving kettle,
add the last half of the sugar to it, and let it melt over the fire.
When it has boiled skim it, and then put in the plums. Boil them over a
moderate fire, for about half an hour. Then take them out one by one
with a spoon, and spread them on large dishes to cool. If the syrup is
not sufficiently thick and clear, boil and skim it a little longer till
it is. Put the plums into glass jars and pour the syrup warm over them.

The flavour will be much improved by boiling in the syrup with the
fruit a handful or more of the kernels of plums, blanched in scalding
water and broken in half. Take the kernels out of the syrup before you
pour it into the jars.

You may preserve plums whole, without peeling, by pricking them deeply
at each end with a large needle.

Green gages and damsons maybe preserved according to this receipt.

PLUMS FOR COMMON USE.

Take fine ripe plums, and cut them in half. Extract all the stones, and
spread out the plums on large dishes. Set the dishes on the sunny roof
of a porch or shed, and let the plums have the full benefit of the sun
for three or four days, taking them in, as soon as it is off, or if the
sky becomes cloudy. This will half dry them. Then pack them closely in
stone jars with a thick layer of the best brown sugar between every
layer of plums; putting plenty of sugar at the bottom and top of the
jars. Cover them closely, and set them away in a dry place.

If they have been properly managed, they will keep a year; and are very
good for pies and other purposes, in the winter and spring.

Peaches may be prepared for keeping in the same manner.

EGG PLUMS WHOLE.

Take large egg plums that are not quite ripe, and prick them all over
with a small silver fork. Leave on the stems. To three pounds of plums
allow three pounds and a half of loaf-sugar, broken small or powdered.
Put the plums and sugar into a preserving kettle, and pour in one half
pint of clear hard water. Hang the kettle over a moderate fire, and
boil and skim it, As soon as the skin begins to crack or shrivel, take
out the plums one at a time, (leaving the syrup on the fire,) and
spread them on large dishes to cool. Place them in the open air, and as
soon as they are cool enough to be touched with your fingers, smooth
the skin down where it is broken or ruffled, When quite cold, return
them to the syrup, (which in the mean time must have been kept slowly
simmering,) and boil the plums again till they are quite clear, but not
till they break. Put them warm into large glass or queen’s-ware jars,
and pour the syrup over them.

TO PRESERVE PEARS.

Take large fine juicy pears that are not perfectly ripe, and pare them
smoothly and thin; leaving on the stems, but cutting out the black top
at the blossom end of the fruit. As you pare them, lay them in a pan of
cold water. Make a thin syrup, allowing a quart of water to a pound of
loaf-sugar. Simmer the pears in it for about half an hour. Then pat
them into a tureen, and let them lie in the syrup for two days, There
must be syrup enough to cover them well. After two days, drain the
syrup front the pears, and add to it more sugar, in the proportion of a
pound to each pint of the thin syrup. Stir in a very little beaten
white of egg, (not more than one white to three or four pounds of
sugar,) add some fresh lemon-peel pared thin, and set the syrup over a
brisk fire. Boil it for ten minutes and skim it well. Then add
sufficient lemon-juice to flavour it; and put in the pears. Simmer them
in the strong syrup till they are quite transparent. Then take them
out, spread them to cool, and stick a clove in the blossom end of each.
Put them into glass jars; and having kept the syrup warm over the fire
while the pears were tooling, pour it over them.

If you wish to have them red, add a little powdered cochineal to the
strong syrup when you put in your pears.

BAKED PEARS.

The best for baking are the large late ones, commonly called pound
pears. Pare them, cut them in half, and take out the cores. Lay them in
a deep white dish, with a thin slip of fresh lemon-peel in the place
from which each core was taken. Sprinkle them with sugar, and strew
some whole cloves or some powdered cinnamon-among them. Pour into the
dish some port wine. To a dozen large pears you may allow half a pound
of sugar, and a pint of wine. Cover the dish, with a large sheet of
brown paper tied on; set it in a moderate oven, and let them bake till
tender all through which you may ascertain by sticking a broom twig
through them. They will he done in about an hour, or they may probably
require more time; but you must not let them remain long enough in the
oven, to break or fall to pieces. When cool, put them up in a stone
jar. In cold weather they will keep a week.

To bake smaller pears, pare them, but leave on the stems, and do not
core them. Put them into a deep dish with fresh lemon, or orange-peel;
throw on them some brown sugar or molasses; pour in at the bottom a
little water to keep them from burning; and bake them till tender
throughout.

TO PRESERVE GOOSEBERRIES.

The best way of preserving gooseberries is with jelly. They should be
full grown but green. Take six quarts of gooseberries, and select three
quarts of the largest and finest to preserve whole, reserving the
others for the jelly. Put the whole ones into a pan with sufficient
water to cover them, and simmer them slowly till they begin to be
tender; but do not keep them on the fire till they are likely to burst.
Take them out carefully with a perforated skimmer to drain the warm
water from them, and lay them directly in a pan of cold water. Put
those that you intend for the jelly into a stew-pan, allowing to each
quart of gooseberries half a pint of water. Boil them fast till they go
all to pieces, and stir and mash them with a spoon. Then put them into
a jelly-bag that has been first dipped in hot water, and squeeze
through it all the juice. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow a
pound and a half of loaf-sugar. Break up the sugar, and put it into a
preserving kettle; pour the juice over it, and let it stand to melt,
stirring it frequently. When it has all dissolved, set it over the
fire, put the gooseberries into it, and let them boil twenty minutes,
or till they are quite clear, and till the jelly is thick and congeals
in the spoon when you hold it in the air. If the gooseberries seem
likely to break, take them out carefully, and let the jelly boil by
itself till it is finished. When all is done, put up the gooseberries
and the jelly together in glass jars.

Strawberries, raspberries, grapes, currants or any small fruit may in a
similar manner be preserved in jelly.

TO STEW GOOSEBERRIES.

Top and tail them. Pour some boiling water on the gooseberries, cover
them up, and let them set about half an hour, or till the skin is quite
tender, but not till it bursts, as that will make the juice run out
into the water. Then pour off the water, and mix with the gooseberries
an equal quantity of sugar. Put them into a porcelain stew-pan or
skillet, and set it on hot coals, or on a charcoal furnace. In a few
minutes you may begin to mash them against the side of the pan with a
wooden spoon. Let them stew about half an hour, stirring them
frequently. They must be quite cold before they are used for any thing.

GOOSEBERRY FOOL.

Having stewed two quarts of gooseberries in the above manner, stir them
as soon as they are cold into a quart of rich boiling milk. Grate in a
nutmeg, and covering the pan, let the gooseberries simmer in the milk
for five minutes. Then stir in the beaten yolks of two or three eggs,
and immediately remove it from the fire. Keep on the cover a few
minutes longer; then turn out the mixture into a deep dish or a glass
bowl, and set it away to get cold, before it goes to table. Eat it with
sponge-cake. It will probably require additional sugar.

Gooseberries prepared in this manner make a very good pudding, with the
addition of a little grated bread. Use both whites and yolks of the
eggs. Stir the mixture well, and bake it in a deep dish. Eat it cold,
with sugar grated over it.

TO BOTTLE GOOSEBERRIES.

For this purpose the gooseberries must be large and full grown, but
quite green. Top and tail them, and put them into wide-mouthed bottles
as far up as the beginning of the neck. Cover the bottom of a large
boiler or kettle with saw-dust or straw. Stand the bottles of
gooseberries (slightly corked) upright in the boiler, and pour round
them cold water to each, as far up as the fruit. Put a brisk fire under
the boiler, and when the water boils up, instantly take out the bottles
and fill them up to the mouth with boiling water, which you must have
ready in a tea-kettle. Cork them again slightly, and when quite cold
put in the corks very tight and seal them. Lay the bottles on their
sides in a box of dry sand, and turn them every day for four or five
weeks. If properly managed, the gooseberries will keep a year, and may
be used at any time, by stewing them with sugar.

You may bottle damsons in the same manner; also grapes.

PRESERVED RASPBERRIES.

Take a quantity of ripe raspberries, and set aside the half, selecting
for that purpose the largest and firmest. Then put the remainder into
your preserving pan, mash them, and set them over the fire. As soon as
they have come to a boil, take them out, let them cool, and then
squeeze them through a bag.

While they are cooling, prepare your sugar, which must be fine loaf.
Allow a pound of sugar to every quart of whole raspberries. Having
washed the kettle clean, put the sugar into it, allowing half a pint of
cold water to two pounds of sugar. When it has melted in the water, put
it on the fire, and boil it till the scum ceases to rise, and it is a
thick syrup; taking care to skim it well. Then put in the whole
raspberries, and boil them rapidly a few minutes, but not long enough
to cause them to burst. Take them out with a skimmer full of holes, and
spread them on a large dish to cool. Then mix with the syrup the juice
of those you boiled first, and let it boil about ten or fifteen
minutes. Lastly, put in the whole fruit, and give it one more boil,
seeing that it does not break.

Put it warm into glass jars or tumblers, and when quite cold cover it
closely with paper dipped in brandy, tying another paper tightly over
it.

Strawberries may be done in the same manner; blackberries also.


RASPBERRY JAM.

Take fine raspberries that are perfectly ripe. Weigh them, and to each
pound of fruit allow three quarters of a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Mash
the raspberries, and break up the sugar. Then mix them together, and
put them into a preserving kettle over a good fire. Stir them
frequently and skim them. The jam will be done in half an hour. Put it
warm into glasses, and lay on the top a white paper cut exactly to fit
the inside, and dipped in brandy. Then tie on another cover of very
thick white paper.

Make blackberry jam in the same manner.

TO PRESERVE CRANBERRIES.

The cranberries must be large and ripe. Wash them, and to six quarts of
cranberries allow nine pounds of the best brown sugar. Take three
quarts of the cranberries, and put them into a stew-pan with a pint and
a half of water. Cover the pan, and boil or stew them, till they are
all to pieces. Then squeeze the juice through a jelly-bag. Put the
sugar into a preserving kettle, pour the cranberry juice over it and
let it stand till it is all melted, stirring it up frequently. Then
place the kettle over the fire, and put in the remaining three quarts
of whole cranberries. Let them boil till they are tender, clear, and of
a bright colour, skimming them frequently. When done, put them, warm
into jars with the syrup, which should be like a thick jelly.

RED CURRANT JELLY.

The currants should be perfectly ripe and gathered on a dry day. Strip
them from the stalks, and put them into a stone jar. Cover the jar, and
set it up to the neck in a kettle of boiling water. Keep the water
boiling round the jar till the currants are all broken, stirring them
up occasionally. Then put them into a jelly-bag, and squeeze out all
the juice. To each pint of juice allow a pound and a quarter of the
best loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a porcelain kettle, pour the juice
over it, and stir it frequently till it is all melted. Then set the
kettle over a moderate fire, and let it boil twenty minutes, or till
you find that the jelly congeals in the spoon when, you hold it in the
air; skim it carefully all the time. When the jelly is done, pour it
warm into tumblers, and cover each with two rounds of white tissue
paper, cut to fit exactly the inside of the glass.

Jelly of gooseberries, plums, raspberries, strawberries, barberries,
blackberries, grapes, and other small fruit may all be made in this
manner.

WHITE CURRANT JELLY.

The currants should be quite ripe, and gathered on a dry day. Having
stripped them from the stalks, put them into a close stone jar, and set
it in a kettle of boiling water. As soon as the currants begin to
break, take them out and strain them through a linen cloth. To each
pint of juice allow a pound and a quarter of the best double refined
loaf-sugar; break it small, and put it into a porcelain preserving pan
with barely sufficient water to melt it; not quite half a pint to a
pound and a quarter of sugar; it must be either clear spring water or
river water filtered. Stir up the sugar while it is dissolving, and
when all is melted, put it over a brisk fire, and boil and skim it till
clear and thick. When the scum ceases to rise, put in the white currant
juice and boil it fast for ten minutes. Then put it warm into tumblers,
and when it is cold, cover it with double white tissue paper.

In making this jelly, use only a silver spoon, and carefully observe
all the above precautions, that it may be transparent and delicate. If
it is not quite clear and bright when done boiling, you may run it
again through a jelly-bag.

White raspberry jelly may be prepared in the same manner. A very nice
sweetmeat is made of white raspberries preserved whole, by putting them
in white currant jelly during the ten minutes that you are boiling the
juice with the syrup. You may also preserve red raspberries whole, by
boiling them in red currant jelly.

BLACK CURRANT JELLY.

Take large ripe black currants; strip them from the stalks, and mash
them with the back of a ladle. Then put them into a preserving kettle
with a tumbler of water to each quart of currants; cover it closely,
set it over a moderate fire, and when the currants have come to a boil,
take them out, and squeeze them through a jelly-bag. To each pint of
juice you may allow about a pound of loaf-sugar, and (having washed the
preserving kettle perfectly clean) put in the sugar with the juice;
stir them together till well mixed and dissolved, and then boil it not
longer than ten minutes; as the juice of black currants being very
thick will come to a jelly very soon, and if boiled too long will be
tough and ropy.

Black currant jelly is excellent for sore throats; and if eaten freely
on the first symptoms of the disease, will frequently check, it without
any other remedy. It would be well for all families to keep it in the
house.

GRAPE JELLY.

Take ripe juicy grapes, pick them from the steins; put them into a
large earthen pan, and mash them with the back of a wooden ladle, or
with a potato beetle. Put them into a kettle, (without any water,)
cover them, closely, and let them boil for a quarter of an hour;
stirring them up occasionally from the bottom. Then squeeze them
through a jelly-bag, and to each pint of juice allow a pound of
loaf-sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the grape juice; then put it over a
quick fire in a preserving kettle, and boil and skim it twenty minutes.
When it is a clear thick jelly, take it off, put it warm into tumblers,
and cover them with double tissue paper cut to fit the inside.

In the same manner you may make an excellent jelly for common use, of
ripe fox grapes and the best brown sugar; mixing with the sugar before
it goes on the fire, a little beaten white of egg; allowing two whites
to three pounds of sugar.

GRAPES.

Take some large close bunches of fine grapes, (they must not be too
ripe,) and allow to each bunch a quarter of a pound of bruised sugar
candy. Put the grapes and the sugar candy into large jars, (about
two-thirds full,) and fill them up with French brandy. Tie them up
closely, and keep them in a dry place. Morella cherries may be done in
the same manner.

Foreign grapes are kept in bunches, laid lightly in earthen jars of dry
saw-dust.

TO KEEP WILD GRAPES.

Gather the small black wild grapes late in the season, after they have
been ripened by a frost. Pick them from the stems, and put them into
stone jars, (two-thirds full,) with layers of brown sugar, and fill
them up with cold molasses. They will keep all winter; and they make
good common pies. If they incline to ferment in the jars, give them a
bail with additional sugar.

TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES.

Strawberries for preserving should be large and ripe. They will keep
best if gathered in dry weather, when there has been no rain for at
least two days. Having hulled, or topped and tailed them all, select
the largest and firmest, and spread them out separately on flat dishes;
having first weighed them, and allowed to each pound of strawberries a
pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Sift half the sugar over them. Then take
the inferior strawberries that were left, and those that, are over
ripe; mix with them an equal quantity of powdered sugar, and mash them.
Put them into a basin covered with a plate, and set them over the fire
in a pan of boiling water, till they become a thick juice; then strain
it through a bag and mix with it the other half of the sugar that you
have allotted to the strawberries, which are to be done whole. Put it
into a porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it till the scum ceases to
rise; then put in the whole strawberries with the sugar in which they
have been lying, and all the juice that may have exuded from them. Set
them over the fire in the syrup, just long enough to heat them a
little; and in a few minutes take them out, one by one, with a
tea-spoon, and spread them on dishes to cool; not allowing them to
touch each other. Then take off what scum may arise from the additional
sugar. Repeat this several times, taking out the strawberries and
cooling them till they become quite clear. They must not be allowed to
boil; and if they seem likely to break, they should be instantly and
finally taken from the fire. When quite cold, put them with the syrup
into tumblers, or into white queen’s-ware pots. If intended to keep a
long time it will be well to put at the top a layer of apple jelly.

TO PRESERVE CHERRIES.

Take large ripe morella cherries; weigh them, and to each pound allow a
pound of loaf-sugar. Stone the cherries, (opening them with a sharp
quill,) and save the juice that comes from them in the process. As you
stone them, throw them into a large pan or tureen, and strew about half
the sugar over them, and let them lie in it an hour or two after they
are all stoned. Then put them into a preserving kettle with the
remainder of the sugar, and boil and skim them till the fruit is clear
and the syrup thick.

CHERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE.

The large carnation cherries are the best for this purpose. They should
be quite ripe. Prick every one in several places with a needle, and
leave on the stalks cut short. To each pound of cherries allow a pound
and a quarter of the best loaf-sugar. Spread them on large dishes, and
strew over them a thick layer of the sugar powdered fine; about a
quarter of a pound of sugar to each pound of cherries. Or you may put
them into a large tureen, and disperse the sugar among them, cover
them, and let them set all night. In the morning get some ripe red
currants; pick them, from the stalks, and squeeze them through a linen
cloth till you have just sufficient juice to moisten the remaining
sugar, which you must have ready in a preserving kettle. When the sugar
has melted in the currant juice, put it over the fire, and when it has
been well boiled and skimmed, put in the cherries and simmer them half
an hour, or till they are so clear that you can see the stones through
them. Then take them up one at a time, and spread them out to cool.
Taste one, and if the sugar does not seem, to have sufficiently
penetrated it, return them to the syrup and boil them a little longer,
but do not allow them to break. If you are willing to take the trouble,
you may put them out to cool three or four times while simmering. This
will make them more transparent, and prevent them from bursting.

CHERRY JELLY.

Take fine juicy red cherries, and stone them. Save half the stones,
crack them, and extract the kernels. Put the cherries and the kernels
into a preserving kettle over a slow fire, and let them boil gently in
their juice for half an hour. Then transfer them to a jelly-bag, and
squeeze out the juice. Measure it, and to each pint allow a pound of
fine loaf-sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the juice, and then boil and
skim it for twenty or thirty minutes. Put it up in tumblers covered
with tissue paper.

CHERRY JAM.

To each pound of cherries allow three quarters of a pound of the best
brown sugar. Stone them, and as you do so throw the sugar gradually
into the pan with them. Cover them and let them set all night. Next
day, boil them slowly till the cherries and sugar form a thick smooth
mass. Put it up in queen’s-ware jars.

TO DRY CHERRIES.

Choose the finest and largest red cherries for this purpose. Store
them, and spread them on large dishes in the sun, till they become
quite dry, taking them in as soon as the sun is off, or if the sky
becomes cloudy. Put them up in stone jars, strewing among them some of
the best brown sugar.

The common practice of drying cherries with the stones in, (to save
trouble,) renders them so inconvenient to eat, that they are of little
use, when done in that manner.

With the stones extracted, dried cherries will be found very good for
common pies.

BARBERRY JELLY.

Take ripe barberries, and having stripped them from the stalks, mash
them, and boil them in their juice for a quarter of an hour. Then
squeeze them through a bag: allow to each pint of juice, a pound of
loaf-sugar; and having melted the sugar in the juice, boil them
together twenty or twenty-five minutes, skimming carefully. Put it up
in tumblers with tissue paper.

FROSTED FRUIT.

Take large ripe cherries, plums, apricots, or grapes, and cut off half
the stalk. Have ready in one dish some beaten white of egg, and in
another some fine loaf-sugar, powdered and sifted. Dip the fruit first
into the white of egg, and then roll it one by one in the powdered
sugar. Lay a sheet of white paper on the bottom of a reversed sieve,
set it on a stove or in some other warm place, and spread the fruit on
the paper till the icing is hardened.

PEACH LEATHER.

To six pounds of ripe peaches, (pared and quartered,) allow three
pounds of the best brown sugar. Mix them together, and put them, into a
preserving kettle, with barely water enough to keep them from burning.
Pound and mash them a while with a wooden beetle. Then boil and skim
them for three hours or more, stirring them nearly all the time. When
done, spread them thinly on large dishes, and set them in the sun for
three or four days; Finish the drying by loosening the peach leather on
the dishes, and setting them in the oven after the bread is taken out,
letting them remain till the oven is cold. Roll up the peach leather
and put it away in a box.

Apple leather may be made in the same manner.

RHUBARB JAM.

Peel the rhubarb stalks and cut them into small square pieces. Then
weigh them, and to each pound allow three quarters of a pound of
powdered loaf-sugar. Put the sugar and the rhubarb into a large, deep,
white pan, in alternate layers, the top layer to be of sugar—cover it,
and let it stand all night. In the morning, put it into a preserving
kettle, and boil it slowly till the whole is dissolved into a thick
mass, stirring it frequently, and skimming it before every stirring.
Put it warm into glass jars, and tie it up with brandy paper.



PASTRY, PUDDINGS, ETC.


THE BEST PLAIN PASTE.

All paste should be made in a very cool place, as heat renders it
heavy. It is far more difficult to get it light in summer than in
winter. A marble slab is much better to roll it on than a paste-board.
It will be improved in lightness by washing the butter in very cold
water, and squeezing and pressing out all the salt, as salt is
injurious to paste. In New York and in the Eastern states, it is
customary, in the dairies, to put more salt in what is called fresh
butter, than in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Delaware. This butter,
therefore, should always undergo the process of washing and squeezing
before it is used for pastry or cakes. None but the very best butter
should be taken for those purposes; as any unpleasant taste is always
increased by baking. Potted butter never makes good paste. As pastry is
by no means an article of absolute necessity, it is better not to have
it at all, than to make it badly, and of inferior ingredients; few
things being more unwholesome than hard, heavy dough. The flour for
paste should always be superfine.

You may bake paste in deep dishes or in soup plates. For shells that
are to be baked empty, and afterwards filled with stewed fruit or
sweetmeats, deep plates of block tin with broad edges are best. If you
use patty-pans, the more flat they are the better. Paste always rises
higher and is more perfectly light and flaky, when unconfined at the
sides while baking. That it may be easily taken out, the dishes or tins
should be well buttered.

To make a nice plain paste,—sift three pints of superfine flour, by
rubbing it through a sieve into a deep pan. Divide a pound of fresh
butter into four quarters. Cut up one quarter into the flour, and rub
it fine with your hands. Mix in, gradually, as much cold water as will
make a tolerably stiff dough, and then knead it slightly. Use as little
water as possible or the paste will be tough. Sprinkle a little flour
on your paste-board, lay the lump of dough upon it, and knead it a very
short time. Flour it, and roll it out into a very thin sheet, always
rolling from you. Flour your rolling-pin to prevent its sticking. Take
a second quarter of the butter, and with your thumb, spread it all over
the sheet of paste. If your hand is warm, use a knife instead of your
thumb; for if the butter oils, the paste will be heavy. When you have
put on the layer of butter, sprinkle it with a very little flour, and
with your hands roll up the paste as you would a sheet of paper. Then
flatten it with a rolling-pin, and roll it out a second time into a
thin sheet. Cover it with another layer of butter, as before, and again
roll it up into a scroll. Flatten it again, put on the last layer of
butter, flour it slightly, and again roll up the sheet. Then cut the
scroll into as many pieces as you want sheets for your dishes or
patty-pans. Roll out each piece almost an inch thick. Flour your
dishes, lay the paste lightly on them, notch the edges, and bake it a
light brown. The oven must be moderate. If it is too hot, the paste
will bake before it has risen sufficiently. If too cold, it will
scarcely rise at all, and will be white and clammy. When you begin to
make paste in this manner, do not quit it till it is ready for the
oven. It must always be baked in a close oven where no air can reach
it.

The best rolling-pins, are those that are straight, and as thick at the
ends as in the middle. They should be held by the handles, and the
longer the handles the more convenient. The common rolling-pins that
decrease in size towards the ends, are much less effective, and more
tedious, as they can roll so little at a time; the extremities not
pressing on the dough at all.

All, pastry is best when fresh. After the first day it loses much of
its lightness, and is therefore more unwholesome.

COMMON PIE CRUST.

Sift two quarts of superfine flour into a pan. Divide one pound of
fresh butter into two equal parts, and cut up one half in the flour,
rubbing it fine. Mix it with a very little cold water, and make it into
a round lump. Knead it a little. Then flour your paste-board, and roll
the dough out into a large thin sheet. Spread it all over with the
remainder of the butter. Flour it, fold it up, and roll it out again.
Then fold it again, or roll it into a scroll. Cut it into as many
pieces as you want sheets of paste, and roll each not quite an inch
thick. Butter your pie-dish.

This paste will do for family use, when covered pies are wanted. Also
for apple dumplings, pot-pies, &c.; though all boiled paste is best
when made of suet instead of butter. Short cakes may be made of this,
cut out with the edge of a tumbler. It should always be eaten fresh.

SUET PASTE.

Having removed the skirt and stringy fibres from a pound of beef suet,
chop it as fine as possible. Sift two quarts of flour into a deep pan,
and rub into it one half of the suet. Make, it into a round lump of
dough, with cold water, and then knead it a little. Lay the dough on
your paste-board, roll it out very thin, and cover it with the
remaining half of the suet. Flour it, roll it out thin again, and then
roll it into a scroll. Cut it into as many pieces as you want sheets of
paste, and roll them out half an inch thick.

Suet paste should always be boiled. It is good for plain puddings that
are made of apples, gooseberries, blackberries or other fruit; and for
dumplings. If you use it for pot-pie, roll it the last time rather
thicker than if wanted for any other purpose. If properly made, it will
be light and flaky, and the suet imperceptible. If the suet is minced
very fine, and thoroughly incorporated with the flour, not the
slightest lump will appear when the paste comes to table.

The suet must not be melted before it is used; but merely minced as
fine as possible and mixed cold with the flour.

If for dumplings to eat with boiled mutton, the dough must be rolled
out thick, and cut out of the size you want them, with a tin, or with
the edge of a cup or tumbler.

DRIPPING PASTE.

To a pound of fresh beef-dripping, that has been nicely clarified,
allow two pounds and a quarter of flour. Put the flour into a large
pan, and mix the dripping with it, rubbing it into the flour with your
hands till it is thoroughly incorporated. Then make it into a stiff
dough with a little cold water, and roll it out twice. This may be used
for common meat pies.

LARD PASTE.

Lard for paste should never be used without an equal quantity of
butter. Take half a pound of nice lard, and half a pound of fresh
butter; rub them together into two pounds and a quarter of flour, and
mix it with a little cold water to a stiff dough. Roll it out twice.
Use it for common pies. Lard should always be kept in tin.

POTATO PASTE.

To two quarts of flour, allow fourteen good sized potatoes. Boil the
potatoes till they are thoroughly done throughout. Then peel, and mash
them very fine. Rub them through a cullender.

Having sifted the flour into a pan, add the potatoes gradually; rubbing
them well into the flour with your hands. Mix in sufficient cold water
to make a stiff dough. Roll it out evenly, and you may use it for apple
dumplings, boiled apple pudding, beef-steak pudding, &c.

Potato paste must be sent to table quite hot; as soon as it cools it
becomes tough and heavy. It is unfit for baking; and even when boiled
is less light than suet paste.

FINE PUFF PASTE.

To every pound of the best fresh butter allow a pound or a quart of
superfine flour. Sift the flour into a deep pan, and then sift on a
plate some additional flour to use for sprinkling and rolling. Wash the
butter through two cold waters; squeezing out all the salt, and
whatever milk may remain in it; and then make it up with your hands
into a round lump, and put it in ice till you are ready to use it. Then
divide the butter into four equal parts. Cut up one of the quarters
into the pan of flour; and divide the remaining three quarters into six
pieces, [Footnote: Or into nine; and roll it in that number of times.]
cutting each quarter in half. Mix with a knife the flour and butter
that is in the pan, adding by degrees a very little cold water till you
have made it into a lump of stiff dough. Then sprinkle some flour on
the paste-board, (you should have a marble slab,) take the dough from
the pan by lifting it out with the knife, lay it on the board, and
flouring your rolling-pin, roll out the paste into a large thin sheet.
Then with the knife, put all over it, at equal distances, one of the
six pieces of butter divided into small bits. Fold up the sheet of
paste, flour it, roll it out again, and add in the same manner another
of the portions of butter. Repeat this process till the butter is all
in. Then fold it once more, lay it on a plate, and set it in a cool
place till you are ready to use it. Then divide it into as many pieces
as you want sheets of paste; roll out each sheet, and put them into
buttered plates or patty-pans. In using the rolling-pin, observe always
to roll from you. Bake the paste in a moderate oven, but rather quick
than slow. No air must be admitted to it while baking.

The edges of paste should always be notched before it goes into the
oven. For this purpose, use a sharp penknife, dipping it frequently in
flour as it becomes sticky. The notches should be even and regular. If
you do them imperfectly at first, they cannot be mended by sticking on
additional bits of paste; as, when baked, every patch will be doubly
conspicuous. There are various ways of notching; one of the neatest is
to fold over one corner of each notch; or you may arrange the notches
to stand upright and lie flat, alternately, all round the edge. They
should be made small and regular. You may form the edge into leaves
with the little tin cutters made for the purpose.

If the above directions for puff paste are carefully followed, and if
it is not spoiled in baking, it will rise to a great thickness and
appear in flakes or leaves according to the number of times you have
put in the butter.

It should be eaten the day it is baked.

SWEET PASTE.

Sift a pound and a quarter of the finest flour, and three ounces of
powdered loaf-sugar into a deep dish. Cut up in it ten ounces of the
best fresh butter and rub it fine with your hands. Make a hole in the
middle, pour in the yolks of two beaten eggs, and mix them with the
flour, &c. Then wet the whole to a stiff paste with half a pint of rich
milk. Knead it well, and roll it out.

This paste is intended for tarts of the finest sweetmeats. If used as
shells they should be baked empty, and filled when cool. If made into
covered tarts they may be iced all over, in the manner of cakes, with
beaten white of egg and powdered loaf-sugar. To make puffs of it, roll
it out and cut it into round pieces with the edge of a large tumbler,
or with a tin cutter. Lay the sweetmeat on one half of the paste, fold
the other over it in the form of a half-moon, and unite the edges by
notching them together. Bake them in a brisk oven, and when cool, send
them to table handsomely arranged, several on a dish.

Sweet paste is rarely used except for very handsome entertainments. You
may add some rose water in mixing it.

SHELLS.

Shells of paste are made of one sheet each, rolled out in a circular
form, and spread over the bottom, sides, and edges of buttered dishes
or patty-pans, and baked empty; to be filled, when cool, with stewed
fruit, (which for this purpose should be always cold,) or with
sweetmeats. They should be made either of fine puff paste, or of the
best plain paste, or of sweet paste. They are generally rolled out
rather thick, and will require about half an hour to bake. The oven
should be rather quick, and of equal heat throughout; if hotter in one
part than in another, the paste will draw to one side, and be warped
and disfigured. The shells should be baked of a light brown. When cool,
they must be taken out of the dishes on which they were baked, and
transferred to plates and filled with the fruit.

Shells of puff paste will rise best if baked on flat patty-pans, or tin
plates. When they are cool, pile the sweetmeats on them in a heap.

The thicker and higher the paste rises, and the more it flakes in
layers or leaves, the finer it is considered.

Baking paste as empty shells, prevents it from being moist or clammy at
the bottom.

Tarts are small shells with fruit in them.

PIES.

Pies may be made with any sort of paste. It is a fault to roll it out
too thin; for if it has not sufficient substance, it will, when baked,
be dry and tasteless. For a pie, divide the paste into two sheets;
spread one of them over the bottom and sides of a deep dish well
buttered. Next put in the fruit or other ingredients, (heaping it
higher in the centre,) and then place the other sheet of paste on the
top as a lid or cover; pressing the edges closely down, and afterwards
crimping or notching them with a sharp small knife.

In making pies of juicy fruit, it is well to put on the centre of the
under crust a common tea-cup, laying the fruit round it and over it.
The juice will collect under the cup, and not be liable to run out from
between the edges. There should be plenty of sugar strewed among the
fruit as you put it into the pie.

Preserves should never be put into covered pies. The proper way is to
lay them in baked shells.

All pies are best the day they are baked. If kept twenty-four hours the
paste falls and becomes comparatively hard, heavy, and unwholesome. If
the fruit is not ripe, it should be stewed with sugar, and then allowed
to get cold before it is put into the pie. If put in warm it will make
the paste heavy. With fruit pies always have a sugar dish on the table,
in case they should not be found sweet enough.

STANDING PIES.

Cut up half a pound of butter, and put it into a sauce-pan with three
quarters of a pint of water; cover it, and set it on hot coals. Have
ready in a pan two pounds of sifted flour; make a hole in the middle of
it, pour in the melted butter as soon as it boils, and then with a
spoon gradually mix in the flour. When it is well mixed, knead it with
your hands into a stiff dough. Sprinkle your paste-board with flour,
lay the dough upon it, and continue to knead it with your hands till it
no longer sticks to them, and is quite light. Then let it stand an hour
to cool. Cut off pieces for the bottom and top; roll them out thick,
and roll out a long piece for the sides or walls of the pie, which you
must fix on the bottom so as to stand up all round; cement them
together with white of egg, pinching and closing them firmly. Then put
in the ingredients of your pie, (which should be venison, game, or
poultry,) and lay on the lid or top crust, pinching the edges closely
together. You may ornament the sides and top with leaves or flowers of
paste, shaped with a tin cutter, and notch or scollop the edges
handsomely. Before you set it in the oven glaze it all over with white
of egg. Bake it four hours. These pies are always eaten cold, and in
winter will keep two or three weeks, if the air is carefully excluded
from them; and they may be carried to a considerable distance.

A PYRAMID OF TARTS.

Roll out a sufficient quantity of the best puff paste, or sugar paste;
and with oval or circular cutters, cut it out into seven or eight
pieces of different sizes; stamping the middle of each with the cutter
you intend using for the next. Bake them all separately, and when they
are cool, place them on a dish in a pyramid, (gradually diminishing in
size,) the largest piece at the bottom, and the smallest at the top.
Take various preserved fruits, and lay some of the largest on the lower
piece of paste; on the next place fruit that is rather smaller; and so
on till you finish at the top with the smallest sweetmeats you have.
The upper one may be not so large as a half-dollar, containing only a
single raspberry or strawberry.

Notch all the edges handsomely. You may ornament the top or pinnacle of
the pyramid with a sprig of orange blossom or myrtle.

APPLE AND OTHER PIES.

Take fine juicy acid apples; pare, core, and cut them into small
pieces. Have ready a deep dish that has been lined with paste. Fill it
with the apples; strewing among them layers of brown sugar, and adding
the rind of a lemon pared thin, and also the juice squeezed in, or some
essence of lemon. Put on another sheet of paste as a lid; close the
edges well, and notch them. Bake the pie in a moderate oven, about
three quarters of an hour. Eat it with cream and sugar, or with cold
boiled custard.

If the pie is made of early green apples, they should first be stewed
with a very little water and plenty of brown sugar.

What are called sweet apples are entirely unfit for cooking, as they
become tough and tasteless; and it is almost impossible to get them
sufficiently done.

When you put stewed apples into baked shells, grate nutmeg over the
top. You may cover them with cream whipped to a stiff froth, and heaped
on them.

Cranberries and gooseberries should be stewed with sugar before they
are put into paste. Peaches should be cut in half or quartered, and the
stones taken out. The stones of cherries and plums should also be
extracted.

Raspberries or strawberries, mixed with cream and white sugar, may he
put raw into baked shells.

RHUBARB TARTS.

Take the young green stalks of the rhubarb plant, or spring fruit as it
is called in England; and having peeled off the thin skin, cut the
stalks into small pieces about an inch long, and put them into a
sauce-pan with plenty of brown sugar, and its own juice. Cover it, and
let it stew slowly till it is soft enough to mash to a marmalade. Then
set it away to cool. Have ready some fresh baked shells; fill them with
the stewed rhubarb, and grate white sugar over the top.

For covered pies, cut the rhubarb very small; mix a great deal of sugar
with it, and put it in raw. Bake the pies about three quarters of an
hour.

MINCE PIES.

These pies are always made with covers, and should be eaten warm. If
baked the day before, heat them on the stove or before the fire.

Mince-meat made early in the winter, and packed closely in stone jars,
will keep till spring, if it has a sufficiency of spice and liquor.
Whenever you take out any for use, pour some additional brandy into the
jar before you cover it again, and add some more sugar. No mince-meat,
however, will keep well unless all the ingredients are of the best
quality. The meat should always be boiled the day before you want to
chop it.

GOOD MINCE-MEAT.

Take a bullock’s heart and boil it, or two pounds of the lean of fresh
beef. When it is quite cold, chop it very fine. Chop three pounds of
beef suet (first removing the skin and strings) and six pounds of large
juicy apples that have been pared and cored. Then, stone six pounds of
the best raisins, (or take sultana raisins that are without stones,)
and chop them also. Wash and dry three pounds of currants. Mix all
together; adding to them the grated peel and the juice of two or three
large oranges, two table-spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon, two powdered
nutmegs, and three dozen powdered cloves, a tea-spoonful of beaten
mace, one pound of fine brown sugar, one quart of Madeira wine, one
pint of French brandy, and half a pound of citron cut into large slips.
Having thoroughly mixed the whole, put it into a stone jar, and tie it
up with brandy paper.

THE BEST MINCE-MEAT,

Take a large fresh tongue, rub it with a mixture, in equal proportions,
of salt, brown sugar, and powdered cloves. Cover it, and let it lie two
days, or at least twenty-four hours. Then boil it two hours, and when,
it is cold, skin it, and mince it very fine. Chop also three pounds of
beef suet, six pounds of sultana raisins, and six pounds of the best
pippin apples that have been previously pared and cored. Add three
pounds of currants, picked, washed and dried; two large table-spoonfuls
of powdered cinnamon; the juice and grated rinds of four large lemons;
one pound of sweet almonds, one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and
pounded in a mortar with half a pint of rose water; also four powdered
nutmegs; two dozen beaten cloves; and a dozen blades of mace powdered.
Add a pound of powdered white sugar, and a pound of citron cut into
slips. Mix all together, and moisten it with a quart of Madeira, and a
pint of brandy. Put it up closely in a stone jar with brandy paper; and
when you take any out, add some more sugar and brandy.

Bake this mince-meat in puff paste.

You may reserve the citron to put in when you make the pies. Do not cut
the slips too small, or the taste will be almost imperceptible.

VERY PLAIN MINCE-MEAT.

Take a piece of fresh beef, consisting of about two pounds of lean, and
one pound of fat. Boil it, and when it is quite cold, chop it fine. Or
you may substitute cold roast beef. Pare and core some fine juicy
apples, cut them in pieces, weigh three pounds, and chop them. Stone
four pounds of raisins, and chop them also. Add a large table-spoonful
of powdered cloves, and the same quantity of powdered cinnamon. Also a
pound of brown sugar. Mix all thoroughly, moistening it with a quart of
bottled or sweet cider. You may add the grated peel and the juice of an
orange.

Bake it in good common paste.

This mince-meat will do very well for children or for family use, but
is too plain to be set before a guest. Neither will it keep so long as
that which is richer and more highly seasoned. It is best to make no
more of it at once than you have immediate occasion for.

MINCE-MEAT FOR LENT.

Boil a dozen eggs quite hard, and chop the yolks very fine. Chop also a
dozen pippins, and two pounds of sultana raisins. Add two pounds of
currants, a pound of sugar, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a
tea-spoonful of beaten mace, three powdered nutmegs, the juice and
grated peel of three large lemons, and half a pound of citron cut in
large strips. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and moisten the whole
with a pint of white wine, half a pint of rose-water, and half a pint
of brandy. Bake it in very nice paste.

These mince pies may be eaten by persons who refrain from meat in Lent.

ORANGE PUDDING.

Grate the yellow part of the rind, and squeeze the juice of two large,
smooth, deep-coloured oranges. Stir together to a cream, half a pound
of butter, and half a pound of powdered white sugar, and add a
wine-glass of mixed wine and brandy. Beat very light six eggs, and stir
them gradually into the mixture. Put it into a buttered dish with a
broad edge, round which lay a border of puff-paste neatly notched. Bake
it half an hour, and when cool grate white sugar over it.

You may add to the mixture a Naples biscuit, or two finger biscuits,
grated.

LEMON PUDDING.

May be made precisely in the same manner as the above; substituting
lemons for oranges.

QUINCE PUDDING.

Take six large ripe quinces; pare them, and cut out all the blemishes.
Then scrape them to a pulp, and mix the pulp with half a pint of cream,
and half a pound of powdered sugar, stirring them together very hard.
Beat the yolks of seven eggs, (omitting all the whites except two,) and
stir them gradually into the mixture, adding two wine glasses of rose
water. Stir the whole well together and bake it in a buttered dish
three quarters of an hour Grate sugar over it when cold.

If you cannot obtain cream, you may substitute a quarter of a pound of
fresh butter stirred with the sugar and quince. A baked apple pudding
may be made in the same manner.

ALMOND PUDDING.

Take half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three ounces of shelled
bitter almonds, or peach-kernels. Scald and peel them; throwing them,
as they are peeled, into cold water. Then pound them one at a time in a
marble mortar, adding to each a few drops of rose water; otherwise they
will be heavy and oily. Mix the sweet and bitter almonds together by
pounding them alternately; and as you do them, take them out and lay
them on a plate. They must each be beaten to a fine smooth paste, free
from the smallest lumps. It is best to prepare them the day before you
make the pudding.

Stir to a cream half a pound of fresh butter and half a pound of
powdered white sugar; and by degrees pour into it a glass of mixed wine
and brandy. Beat to a stiff froth, the whites only, of twelve eggs,
(you may reserve the yolks for custards or other purposes,) and stir
alternately into the butter and sugar the pounded almonds and the
beaten white of egg. When the whole is well mixed, put it into a
buttered dish and lay puff paste round the edge. Bake it about half an
hour, and when cold grate sugar over it.

ANOTHER ALMOND PUDDING.

Blanch three quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three
ounces of shelled bitter almonds, and beat them in a mortar to a fine
paste; mixing them well, and adding by degrees a tea-cup full, or more,
of rose water. Boil in a pint of rich milk, a few sticks of cinnamon
broken up, and a few blades of mace. When the milk has come to a boil,
take it off the fire, strain it into a pan, and soak in it five stale
rusks cut into slices. They must soak till quite dissolved. Stir to a
cream three quarters of a pound of fresh butter, mixed with the same
quantity of powdered loaf-sugar. Beat ten eggs very light, yolks and
whites together, and then stir alternately into the butter and sugar,
the rusk, eggs, and almonds. Set it on a stove or a chafing dish, and
stir the whole together till very smooth and thick. Put it into a
buttered dish and bake it three quarters of an hour. It must be eaten
cool or cold.

COCOA-NUT PUDDING.

Having opened a cocoa-nut, pare off the brown skin from the pieces, and
wash them all in cold water. Then weigh three quarters of a pound, and
grate it into a dish. Cut up half a pound of butter into half a pound
of powdered loaf-sugar, and stir them together to a cream; add to them
a glass of wine and rose water mixed. Beat the whites only, of twelve
eggs, till they stand alone on the rods; and then stir the grated
cocoa-nut and the beaten white of egg alternately into the butter and
sugar; giving the whole a hard stirring at the last. Put the mixture
into a buttered dish, lay puff paste round the flat edge, and bake it
half an hour in a moderate oven. When cool, grate powdered sugar over
it.

ANOTHER COCOA-NUT PUDDING.

Peel and cut up the cocoa-nut, and wash, and wipe the pieces. Weigh one
pound, and grate it fine. Then, mix with it three stale rusks or small
sponge-cakes, grated also. Stir together till very light half a pound
of butter and half a pound of powdered white sugar, and add a glass of
white wine. Beat six whole eggs very light, and stir them gradually
into the butter and sugar in turn with the grated cocoa-nut. Having
stirred the whole very hard at the last, put it into a buttered dish
and bake it half an hour.

PUMPKIN PUDDING.

Take a pint of pumpkin that has been stewed soft, and pressed through a
cullender. Melt in half a pint of warm milk, a quarter of a pound of
butter, and the same quantity of sugar, stirring them well together. If
you can conveniently procure a pint of rich cream it will be better
than the milk and butter. Beat eight eggs very light, and add them
gradually to the other ingredients, alternately with the pumpkin. Then
stir in a wine glass of rose water and two glasses of wine mixed
together; a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed, and
a grated nutmeg. Having stirred the whole very hard, put it into a
buttered dish and bake it three quarters of an hour.

A SQUASH PUDDING.

Pare, cut in pieces, and stew in a very little water, a yellow winter
squash. When it is quite soft, drain it dry, and mash it in a
cullender. Then put it into a pan, and mix with it a quarter of a pound
of butter. Prepare two pounded crackers, or an equal quantity of grated
stale bread. Stir gradually a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar into
a quart of rich milk, and add by degrees, the squash, and the powdered
biscuit. Beat nine eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the
mixture. Add a glass of white wine, a glass of brandy, a glass of rose
water, and a table-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon
powdered. Stir the whole very hard, till all the ingredients are
thoroughly mixed. Bake it three quarters of an hour in a buttered dish;
and when cold, grate white sugar over it.

YAM PUDDING.

Take one pound of roasted yam, and rub it through a cullender. Mix with
it half a pound of white sugar, a pint of cream or half a pound of
butter, a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, and a
wine glass of rose water, and one of wine. Set it away to get cold.
Then beat six eggs very light. Stir them into the mixture. Put it into
a buttered dish and bake it half an hour. Grate sugar over it when
cold.

CHESTNUT PUDDING,

May be made in the above manner.

POTATO PUDDING.

Boil a pound of fine potatoes, peel them, mash them, and rub them
through a cullender. Stir together to a cream, three quarters of a
pound of sugar and the same quantity of butter. Add to them gradually,
a wine glass of rose water, a glass of wine, and a glass of brandy; a
tea-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, and the
juice and grated peel of a large lemon. Then beat six eggs very light,
and add them by degrees to the mixture, alternately with the potato.
Bake it three quarters of an hour in a buttered dish.

SWEET POTATO PUDDING.

Take half a pound of sweet potatoes, wash them, and put them into a pot
with a very little water, barely enough to keep them from burning. Let
them simmer slowly for about half an hour; they must be only parboiled,
otherwise they will be soft, and may make the pudding heavy. When they
are half done, take them out, peel them, and when cold, grate them.
Stir together to a cream, half a pound of butter and a quarter of a
pound and two ounces of powdered sugar, add a grated nutmeg, a large
tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and half a tea-spoonful of beaten
mace. Also the juice and grated peel of a lemon, a wine glass of rose
water, a glass of wine, and a glass of brandy. Stir these ingredients
well together. Beat eight eggs very light, and stir them into the
mixture in turn with the sweet potato, a little at a time of each.
Having stirred the whole very hard at the last, put it into a buttered
dish and bake it three quarters of an hour.

CARROT PUDDING.

May be made in the above manner.

GREEN CORN PUDDING.

Take twelve ears of green corn, as it is called, (that is, Indian corn
when full grown, but before it begins to harden and turn yellow,) and
grate it. Have ready a quart of rich milk, and stir into it by degrees
a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound of
sugar. Beat four eggs till quite light; and then stir them into the
milk, &c. alternately with the grated corn, a little of each at a time.
Put the mixture into a large buttered dish, and bake it four hours. It
may be eaten either warm or cold, For sauce, beat together butter and
white sugar in equal proportions, mixed with grated nutmeg.

To make this pudding—you may, if more convenient, boil the corn and cut
it from the cob; but let it get quite cold before you stir it into the
milk. If the corn has been previously boiled, the pudding will require
but two hours to bake.

SAGO PUDDING.

Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of currants; and prepare a
tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon; a half tea-spoonful of powdered
mace; and a beaten nutmeg. Have ready six table-spoonfuls of sago,
picked clean, and soaked for two hours in cold water. Boil the sago in
a quart of milk till quite soft. Then stir alternately into the milk, a
quarter of a pound of butter, and six ounces of powdered sugar, and set
it away to cool. Bent eight eggs, and when they are quite light, stir
them gradually into the milk, sago, &c. Add the spice, and lastly the
currants; having dredged them well with flour to prevent their sinking.
Stir the whole very hard, put it into a buttered dish, and bake it
three quarters of an hour. Eat it cold.

ARROW ROOT PUDDING.

Take four tea-cups full of arrow root, and dissolve it in a pint of
cold milk. Then boil another pint of milk with some broken cinnamon,
and a few bitter almonds or peach-leaves. When done, strain it hot over
the dissolved arrow root; stir it to a thick smooth batter, and set it
away to get cold. Next, beat six eggs very light, and stir them into
the batter, alternately with a quarter of a pound of powdered white
sugar. Add a grated nutmeg and some fresh lemon-peel grated. Put the
mixture into a buttered dish, and bake it an hour. When cold, cut some
slices of preserved quince or peach, and arrange them handsomely all
over the top of the pudding; or ornament it with strawberries, or
raspberries preserved whole.

GROUND RICE PUDDING.

Mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice with a pint of cold milk, till
it is a smooth batter and free from lumps. Boil three pints of milk;
and when it has boiled, stir in gradually the rice batter, alternately
with a quarter of a pound of butter. Keep it over the fire, stirring
all the time, till the whole is well mixed, and has boiled hard. Then
take it off, add a quarter of a pound of white sugar; stir it well, and
set it away to cool. Beat eight eggs very light and stir them into the
mixture when it is quite cold. Then strain it through a sieve, (this
will make it more light and delicate,) add a grated nutmeg, and a large
tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir in the juice and the grated
peel of a lemon, or a small tea-spoonful of essence of lemon. Put it
into a deep dish or dishes, and bake it an hour. As soon as it comes
out of the oven, lay slips of citron over the top; and when cold, strew
powdered sugar on it.

A RICE PLUM PUDDING.

Take three jills of whole rice; wash it, and boil it in a pint of milk.
When it is soft, mix in a quarter of a pound of butter, and set it
aside to cool; and when it is quite cold, stir it into another pint of
milk. Prepare a pound and a half of raisins or currants; if currants,
wash and dry them; if raisins, seed them and cut them in half. Dredge
them well with flour, to prevent their sinking; and prepare also a
powdered nutmeg; a table-spoonful of mixed mace and cinnamon powdered;
a wine glass of rose water; and a wine glass of brandy or white wine.
Beat six eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture, alternately
with a quarter of a pound of sugar. Then add by degrees the spice and
the liquor, and lastly, stir in, a few at a time, the raisins or
currants. Put the pudding into a buttered dish and bake it an hour and
a half. Send it to table cool.

You may make this pudding of ground rice, using but half a pint instead
of three jills.

A PLAIN RICE PUDDING.

Pick and wash a pint of rice, and boil it soft. Then drain off the
water, and let the rice dry and get cold. Afterwards mix with it two
ounces of butter, and four ounces of sugar, and stir it into a quart of
rich milk. Beat four or five eggs very light, and add them gradually to
the mixture. Stir in at the last a table-spoonful of mixed nutmeg and
cinnamon. Bake it an hour in a deep dish.

A FARMER’S RICE PUDDING.

This pudding is made without eggs. Wash half a pint of rice through two
cold waters, and drain it well. Stir it raw into a quart of rich milk,
or of cream and milk mixed; adding a quarter of a pound of brown sugar,
and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Put it into a deep pan, and
bake it two hours or more. When done, the rice will be perfectly soft,
which you may ascertain by dipping a tea-spoon into the edge of the
pudding and taking out a little to try. Eat it cold.

RICE MILK.

Pick and wash half a pint of rice, and boil it in a quart of water till
it is quite soft. Then drain it, and mix it with a quart of rich milk.
You may add half a pound of whole raisins. Set it over hot coals, and
stir it frequently till it boils. When it boils hard, stir in
alternately two beaten eggs, and four large table-spoonfuls of brown
sugar. Let it continue boiling five minutes longer; then take it off,
and send it to table hot. If you put in raisins you must let it boil
till they are quite soft.

A BOILED RICE PUDDING.

Mix a quarter of a pound of ground rice with a pint of milk, and simmer
it over hot coals; stirring it all the time to prevent its being lumpy,
or burning at the bottom. When it is thick and smooth, take it off, and
pour it into an earthen pan. Mix a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a
quarter of a pound of butter with half a pint of cream or very rich
milk, and stir it into the rice; adding a powdered nutmeg, and the
grated rind of two lemons, or half a tea-spoonful of strong oil of
lemon. Beat the yolks of six eggs with the whites of two only. When the
eggs are quite light, mix them gradually with the other ingredients,
and stir the whole very hard. Butter a large bowl, or a pudding mould.
Put in the mixture; tying a cloth tightly over the top, (so that no
water can get in,) and boil it two hours. When done, turn it out into a
dish. Send it to table warm, and eat it with sweetened cream, flavoured
with a glass of brandy or white wine and a grated nutmeg.

A MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.

Pare, core and quarter six large ripe pippin apples. Stew them in half
a pint of water. When they are soft but not broken, take them out,
drain them through a sieve, and mash them to a paste with the back of a
spoon. Mix with them six large table-spoonfuls of sugar and a quarter
of a pound of butter, and set them away to get cold. Grate two milk
biscuits or email sponge cakes, or an equal quantity of stale bread,
and grate also the yellow peel, and squeeze the juice of a large lemon.
Beat six eggs light, and when the apple is cold stir them gradually
into it, adding the grated biscuit and the lemon. Stir in a wine glass
of rose water and a grated nutmeg. Put the mixture into a buttered dish
or dishes; lay round the edge a border of puff paste, and bake it three
quarters of art hour. When cold, grate white sugar over the top, and
ornament it with slips of citron handsomely arranged.

ALMOND CHEESE CAKE.

This though usually called a cheese cake, is in fact a pudding.

Cut a piece of rennet about two inches square, wash off the salt in
cold water, and wipe it dry. Put it into a tea-cup, pour on it
sufficient lukewarm water to cover it, and let it soak all night, or at
least several hours. Take a quart of milk, which must be made warm, but
not boiling. Stir the rennet-water into it. Cover it, and set it in a
warm place. When the curd has become quite firm, and the whey looks
greenish, drain off the whey, and set the curd in a cool place. While
the milk is turning, prepare the other ingredients. Wash and dry half a
pound of currants, and dredge them well with flour. Blanch three ounces
of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, by scalding and peeling them.
Then cool them in cold water, wiping them dry before you put them into
the mortar. If you cannot procure bitter almonds, peach kernels may be
substituted. Beat them, one at a time, in the mortar to a smooth paste,
pouring in with every one a few drops of rose water to prevent their
being oily, dull-coloured, and heavy. If you put a sufficiency of rose
water, the pounded almond paste will be light, creamy, and perfectly
white. Mix, as you do them, the sweet and bitter almonds together. Then
beat the yolks of eight eggs, and when light, mix them gradually with
the curd. Add five table-spoonfuls of cream, and a tea-spoonful of
mixed spice. Lastly, stir in, by degrees, the pounded almonds, and the
currants alternately. Stir the whole mixture very hard. Bake it in
buttered dishes, laying puff paste round the edges. If accurately made,
it will be found delicious. It must be put in the oven immediately.

COMMON CHEESE CAKE.

Boil a quart of rich milk. Beat eight eggs, put them to the milk, and
let the milk and eggs boil together till they become a curd. Then drain
it through a very clean sieve, till all the whey is out. Put the curd
into a deep dish, and mix with it half a pound of butter, working them
well together. When it is cold, add to it the beaten yolks of four
eggs, and four large table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar; also a
grated nutmeg. Lastly, stir in, by degrees, half a pound of currants
that have been previously picked, washed, dried, and dredged with
flour. Lay. puff paste round the rim of the dish, and bake the cheese
cake half an hour. Send it to table cold.

PRUNE PUDDING.

Scald a pound of prunes; cover them, and let them swell in the hot
water till they are soft. Then drain them, and extract the stones;
spread the prunes on a large dish, and dredge them with flour. Take one
jill or eight large fable-spoonfuls from a quart of rich milk, and stir
into it, gradually, eight spoonfuls of sifted flour. Mix it to a smooth
batter, pressing out all the lumps with the back of the spoon. Beat six
eggs very light, and stir them, by degrees, into the remainder of the
milk, alternately with the batter that you have just mixed. Then add
the prunes one at a time, stirring the whole very hard. Tie the pudding
in a cloth that has been previously dipped in boiling water and then
dredged with flour. Leave room for it to swell, but secure it firmly,
so that no water can get in. Put it into a pot of boiling water, and
boil it two hours. Send it to table hot, (not taking it out of the pot
till a moment before it is wanted,) and eat it with cream sauce; or
with butter, sugar, and nutmeg beaten together, and served up in a
little tureen. A similar pudding may be made with whole raisins.

EVE’S PUDDING.

Pare, core, and quarter six large pippins, and chop them very fine.
Grate stale bread till you have six ounces of crumbs, and roll fine six
ounces of brown sugar. Pick, wash, and dry six ounces of currants, and
sprinkle them with flour. Mix all these ingredients together in a large
pan, adding six ounces of butter cut small, and two table-spoonfuls of
flour. Beat six eggs very light, and moisten the mixture with them. Add
a grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir the
whole very well together. Have ready a pot of boiling water. Dip your
pudding cloth into it, shake it out, and dredge it with flour. Then put
in the mixture, and tie it very firmly; leaving space for the pudding
to swell, and stopping up the tying place with a paste of wetted flour.
Boil it three hours; keeping at the fire a kettle of boiling water, to
replenish the pot, that the pudding may be always well covered. Send it
to table hot, and eat it with sweetened cream flavoured with wine and
nutmeg.

CINDERELLAS OR GERMAN PUFFS.

Sift eight table-spoonfuls of the finest flour. Cut up in a quart of
rich milk, half a pound of fresh butter, and set it on the stove, or
near the fire, till it has melted. Beat eight eggs very light, and stir
them gradually into the milk and butter, alternately with the flour.
Add a powdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Mix the
whole very well to a fine smooth batter, in which there must be no
lumps. Butter some large common tea-cups, and divide the mixture among
them till they are half full or a little more. Set them immediately in
a quick oven, and bake them about a quarter of an hour. When done, turn
them out into a dish and grate white sugar over them. Serve them up
hot, with a sauce of sweetened cream flavoured with wine and nutmeg; or
you may eat them with molasses and butter; or with sugar and wine. Send
them round whole, for they will fall almost as soon as cut.

A BOILED BREAD PUDDING.

Boil a quart of rich milk. While it is boiling, take a small loaf of
baker’s bread, such as is sold for five or six cents. It may be either
fresh or stale. Pare off all the crust, and cut up the crumb into very
small pieces. You should have baker’s bread if you can procure it, as
home-made bread may not make the pudding light enough. Put the bread
into a pan; and when the milk boils, pour it scalding hot over the
bread. Cover the pan closely, and let it steep in the hot steam for
about three quarters of an hour. Then remove the cover, and allow the
bread and milk to cool. In the mean time, beat four eggs till they are
thick and smooth. Then beat into them a table-spoonful and a half of
fine wheat flour. Next beat the egg and flour into the bread and milk,
and continue to beat hard till the mixture is as light as possible; for
on this the success of the pudding chiefly depends.

Have ready over the fire a pot of boiling water. Dip your pudding-cloth
into it, and shake it out. Spread out the cloth in a deep dish or pan,
and dredge it well with flour. Pour in the mixture, and tie up the
cloth, leaving room for it to swell. Tie the string firmly and plaster
up the opening (if there is any) with flour moistened with water. If
any water gets into it the pudding will be spoiled.

See that the water boils when you put in the pudding, and keep it
boiling hard. If the pot wants replenishing, do it with boiling water
from a kettle. Should you put in cold water to supply the place of that
which has boiled away, the pudding will chill, and become hard and
heavy. Boil it an hour and a half.

Turn it out of the bag the minute before you send it to table. Eat it
with wine sauce, or with sugar and butter, or molasses.

It will be much improved by adding to the mixture half a pound of whole
raisins, well floured to prevent their sinking. Sultana raisins are
best, as they have no seeds.

If these directions are exactly followed, this will be found a
remarkably good and wholesome plain pudding.

For all boiled puddings, a square pudding-cloth which can be opened
out, is much better than a bag. It should be very thick.

A BAKED BREAD PUDDING.

Take a stale five cent loaf of bread; cut off all the crust, and grate
or rub the crumb as fine as possible. Boil a quart of rich milk, and
pour it hot over the bread; then stir in a quarter of a pound of
butter, and the same quantity of sugar, a glass of wine and brandy
mixed, or a glass of rose water. Or you may omit the liquor and
substitute the grated peel of a large lemon. Add a table-spoonful of
raised cinnamon and nutmeg powdered. Stir the whole very well, cover
it, and set it away for half an hour. Then let it cool. Beat seven or
eight eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the mixture after
it is cold. Then butter a deep dish, and bake the pudding an hour. Send
it to table cool.

A BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.

Cut some slices of bread and butter moderately thick, omitting the
crust; stale bread is best. Butter a deep dish, and cover the bottom
with slices of the buttered bread. Have ready a pound of currants,
picked, washed and dried. Spread one third of them thickly over the
bread and butter, and strew on some brown sugar. Then put another layer
of bread and butter, and cover it also with currants and sugar. Finish
with a third layer of each, and pour over the whole four eggs, beaten
very light and mixed with a pint of milk, and a wine glass of rose
water. Bake the pudding an hour, and grate nutmeg over it when done.
Eat it warm, but not hot.

You may substitute for the currants, raisins seeded, and cut in half.

This pudding may be made also with layers of stewed gooseberries
instead of the currants, or with pippin apples pared, cored and minced
fine.

A SUET PUDDING.

Mince very finely as much beef suet as will make two large
table-spoonfuls. Grate two handfuls of bread-crumbs; boil a quart of
milk and pour it hot on the bread. Cover it, and set it aside to steep
for half an hour; then put it to cool. Beat eight eggs very light; stir
the suet, and three table-spoonfuls of floor alternately into the bread
and milk, and add, by degrees, the eggs. Lastly, stir in a
table-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and cinnamon mixed, and a glass of
mixed wine and brandy. Pour it into a bag that has been dipped in hot
water and floured; tie it firmly, put it into a pot of boiling water,
and boil it two hours. Do not take it up till immediately before it is
wanted, and send it to table hot.

Eat it with wine sauce, or with molasses.

A CUSTARD PUDDING.

Take five table-spoonfuls out of a quart of cream or rich milk, and mix
them with two large spoonfuls of fine flour. Set the rest of the milk
to boil, flavouring it with half a dozen peach leaves, or with bitter
almonds broken up. When it has boiled hard, take it off, strain it, and
stir in the cold milk and flour. Set it away to cool, and beat very
light ten yolks and four whites of eggs; add them to the milk, and stir
in, at the last, a glass of brandy, or white wine, a powdered nutmeg,
and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Butter a large bowl or mould; pour
in the mixture; tie a cloth tightly over it; put it into a pot of
boiling water, and boil it two hours, replenishing the pot with hot
water from a tea-kettle. When the pudding is done, let it get cool
before you turn it out. Eat it with butter and sugar stirred together
to a cream, and flavoured with lemon.

FLOUR HASTY PUDDING.

Tie together half a dozen peach leaves, put them into a quart of milk,
and set it on the fire to boil. When it has come to a hard boil, take
out the leaves, but let the pot remain boiling on the fire. Then with a
large wooden spoon in one hand, and some wheat flour in the other,
thicken and stir it till it is about the consistence of a boiled
custard. Afterwards throw in, one at a time, a dozen small bits of
butter rolled in a thick coat of flour. You may enrich it by stirring
in a beaten egg or two, a few minutes before you take it from the fire.
When done, pour it into a deep dish, and strew brown sugar thickly over
the top. Eat it warm.

INDIAN MUSH.

Have ready on the fire a pot of boiling water. Stir into it by degrees
(a handful at a time) sufficient Indian meal to make it very thick, and
then add a very small portion of salt. You must keep the pot boiling on
the fire all the time you are throwing in the meal; and between every
handful, stir very hard with the mush-stick, (a round stick flattened
at one end,) that the mush may not be lumpy. After it is sufficiently
thick, keep it boiling for an hour longer, stirring it occasionally.
Then cover the pot, and hang it higher up the chimney, so as to simmer
slowly or keep hot for another hour. The goodness of mush depends
greatly on its being long and thoroughly boiled. If sufficiency cooked,
it is wholesome and nutritious, but exactly the reverse, if made in
haste. It is not too long to have it altogether three of four hours
over the fire; on the contrary it will be much the better for it.

Eat it warm; either with milk, or cover your plate with mush, make a
hole in the middle, put some butter in the hole and fill it up with
molasses.

Cold mush that has been left, may be cut into slices and fried in
butter.

Burgoo is made precisely in the same manner as mush, but with oatmeal
instead of Indian.

A BAKED INDIAN PUDDING.

Cut up a quarter of a pound of butter in a pint of molasses, and warm
them together till the butter is melted. Boil a quart of milk; and
while scalding hot, pour it slowly over a pint of sifted Indian meal,
and stir in the molasses and butter. Cover it, and let it steep for an
hour. Then take off the cover, and set the mixture to cool. When it is
cold, beat six eggs, and stir them gradually into it; add a
table-spoonful of mixed cinnamon and nutmeg; and the grated peel of a
lemon. Stir the whole very hard; put it into a buttered dish, and bake
it two hours. Serve it up hot, and eat it with wine sauce, or with
butter and molasses.

A BOILED INDIAN PUDDING.

Chop very fine a quarter of a pound of beef suet, and mix it with a
pint of sifted Indian meal. Boil a quart of milk with some pieces of
cinnamon broken up; strain it, and while it is hot, stir in gradually
the meal and suet; add half a pint of molasses. Cover the mixture and
set it away for an hour; then put it to cool. Beat six eggs, and stir
them gradually into the mixture when it is cold; add a grated nutmeg,
and the grated peel of a lemon. Tie the pudding in a cloth that has
been dipped in hot water and floured; and leave plenty of room for it
to swell. Secure it well at the tying place lest the water should get
in, which will infallibly spoil it. Put it into a pot of boiling water,
(which must be replenished as it boils away,) and boil it four hours at
least; but five or six will be better. To have an Indian pudding _very
good_, it should be mixed the night before, (all except the eggs,) and
put on to boil early in the morning. Do not take it out of the pot till
immediately before it is wanted. Eat it with wine sauce, or with
molasses and butter.

INDIAN PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS.

Boil some cinnamon in a quart of milk, and then strain it. While the
milk is hot, stir into it a pint of molasses, and then add by degrees a
quart or more of Indian meal so as to make a thick batter. It will be
much improved by the grated peel and juice of a large lemon or orange.
Tie it very securely in a thick cloth, leaving room for it to swell,
and pasting up the tying-place with a lump of flour and water. Put it
into a pot of boiling water, (having ready a kettle to fill it up as it
boils away,) hang it over a good fire, and keep it boiling hard for
four or five hours. Eat it warm with molasses and butter.

This is a very economical, and not an unpalatable pudding; and may be
found convenient when it is difficult to obtain eggs.

A BAKED PLUM PUDDING.

Grate all the crumb of a stale six cent loaf; boil a quart of rich
milk, and pour it boiling hot over the grated bread; cover it, and let
it steep for an hour; then set it out to cool. In the mean time prepare
half a pound of currants, picked, washed, and dried; half a pound of
raisins, stoned and cut in half; and a quarter of a pound of citron cut
in large slips; also, two nutmegs beaten to a powder; and a
table-spoonful of mace and cinnamon powdered and mixed together. Crush
with a rolling-pin half a pound of sugar, and cut up half a pound of
butter. When the bread and milk is uncovered to cool, mix with it the
butter, sugar, spice and citron; adding a glass of brandy, and a glass
of white wine. Beat eight eggs very light, and when the milk is quite
cold, stir them gradually into the mixture. Then add, by degrees, the
raisins and currants, (which must be previously dredged with flour) and
stir the whole very hard. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake it two
hours. Send it to table warm, and eat it with wine sauce, or with wine
and sugar only.

In making this pudding, you may substitute for the butter, half a pound
of beef suet minced as fine as possible. It will be found best to
prepare the ingredients the day before, covering them closely and
putting them away.

A BOILED PLUM PUDDING.

Grate the crumb of a twelve cent loaf of bread, and boil a quart of
rich milk with a small bunch of peach leaves in it, then strain it and
set it out to cool. Pick, wash and dry a pound of currants, and stone
and cut in half a pound of raisins; strew over them three large
table-spoonfuls of flour. Roll fine a pound of brown sugar, and mince
as fine as possible three quarters of a pound of beef suet. Prepare two
beaten nutmegs, and a large table-spoonful of powdered mace and
cinnamon; also the grated peel and the juice of two large lemons or
oranges. Beat ten eggs very light, and (when it is cold) stir them
gradually into the milk, alternately with the suet and grated bread.

Add, by degrees, the sugar, fruit, and spice, with a large glass of
brandy, and one of white wine. Mix the whole very well, and stir it
hard. Then put it into a thick cloth that has been scalded and floured;
leave room for it to swell, and tie it very firmly, pasting the
tying-place with a small lump of moistened flour. Put the pudding into
a large pot of boiling water, and boil it steadily five hours,
replenishing the pot occasionally from a boiling kettle. Turn the
pudding frequently in the pot. Prepare half a pound of citron cut in
slips, and half a pound of almonds blanched and split in half
lengthways. Stick the almonds and the citron all over the outside of
the pudding as soon as you take it out of the cloth. Send it to table
hot, and eat it with wine sauce, or with cold wine and sugar.

If there is enough of the pudding left, it may be cut in slices, and
fried in butter next day.

All the ingredients of this plum pudding (except the eggs) should be
prepared the day before, otherwise it cannot be made in time to allow
of its being sufficiently boiled.

We have known of a very rich plum pudding being mixed in England and
sent to America in a covered bowl; it arrived perfectly good after a
month’s voyage, the season being winter.

A BAKED APPLE PUDDING.

Take nine large pippin apples; pare and core them whole. Set them in
the bottom of a large deep dish, and pour round them a very little
water, just enough to keep them from burning. Put them into an oven,
and let them bake about half an hour. In the mean time, mix three
table-spoonfuls of flour with a quart of milk, a quarter of a pound of
brown sugar, and a tea-spoonful of mixed spice. Beat seven eggs very
light, and stir them gradually into the milk. Then take out the dish of
apples, (which by this time should be half baked,) and fill up the
holes from whence you extracted the cores, with brown sugar; pressing
down into each a slice of fresh lemon. Pour the batter round the
apples; put the dish again into the oven, and let it bake another half
hour; but not long enough for the apples to fall to pieces; as they
should, when done, be soft throughout, but quite whole. Send it to
table warm.

This is sometimes called a _Bird’s Nest Pudding_.

It will be much improved by previously boiling in the milk a small
handful of peach leaves. Let it get cold before you stir in the eggs.

BOILED APPLE PUDDING.

Pare, core, and quarter as many fine juicy apples as will weigh two
pounds when done. Strew among them a quarter of a pound of brown sugar,
and add a grated nutmeg, and the juice and yellow peel of a large
lemon. Prepare a paste of suet and flour, in the proportion of a pound
of chopped suet to two pounds of flour. Roll it out of moderate
thickness; lay the apples in the centre, and close the paste nicely
over them in the form of a large dumpling; tie it in a cloth and boil
it three hours. Send it to table hot, and eat with it cream sauce, or
with butter and sugar.

Any fruit pudding may be made in a similar manner.

AN EASTERN PUDDING.

Make a paste of a pound of flour and half a pound of minced suet; and
roll it out thin into a square or oblong sheet; trim off the edges so
as to make it an even shape. Spread thickly over it some marmalade, or
cold stewed fruit, (which must be made very sweet,) either apple,
peach, plum, gooseberry or cranberry. Roll up the paste, with the fruit
spread on it, into a scroll. Secure each end by putting on nicely a
thin round piece rolled out from the trimmings that you cut off the
edges of the sheet. Put the pudding into a cloth, and boil it at least
three hours. Serve it up hot, and eat it with cream sauce, or with
butter and sugar.

APPLE DUMPLINGS.

Take large fine juicy apples. Pare them, and extract the cores without
dividing the apple. Fill each hole with brown sugar, and some chips of
lemon peel. Also squeeze in some lemon juice. Or you may fill the
cavities with raspberry jam, or with any sort of marmalade. Have ready
a paste, made in the proportion of a pound of suet, chopped as fine as
possible, to two pounds and a half of sifted flour, well mixed, and
wetted with as little water as possible. Roll out the paste to a
moderate thickness, and cut it into circular pieces, allowing two
pieces to each dumpling. Lay your apple on one piece, and put another
piece on the top, closing the paste round the sides with your fingers,
so as to cover the apple entirely. This is a better way than gathering
up the paste at one end, as the dumpling is less liable to burst. Boil
each dumpling in a small coarse cloth, which has first been dipped in
hot water. There should always be a set of cloths kept for the purpose.
Tie them tightly, leaving a small space for the dumpling to swell.
Plaster a little flour on the inside of each tying place to prevent the
water from getting in. Have ready a pot of boiling water. Put in the
dumplings and boil them from three quarters to an hour. Send them to
table hot in a covered dish. Do not take them up till a moment before
they are wanted.

Eat them with cream and sugar, or with butter and sugar.

You may make the paste with butter instead of suet, allowing a pound of
butter to two pounds and a quarter of flour. But when paste is to be
boiled, suet will make it much lighter and finer than butter.

Apple dumplings may be made in a very plain manner with potato paste,
and boiled without cloths, dredging the outside of each dumpling with
flour. They should boil about three quarters of an hour when without
cloths.

The apples for dumplings should always be whole, (except the cores;)
for if quartered, the pieces will separate in boiling and break through
the crust. The apples should never be sweet ones.

RICE DUMPLINGS.

Pick and wash a pound of rice, and boil it gently in two quarts of
water till it becomes dry; keeping the pot well covered, and not
stirring it. Then take it off the fire, and spread it out to cool on
the bottom, of an inverted sieve; loosening the grains lightly with a
fork, that all the moisture may evaporate. Pare a dozen pippins or
other, large juicy apples, and scoop out the core. Then fill up the
cavity with marmalade, or with lemon and sugar. Cover every apple all
over with a thick coating of the boiled rice. Tie up each in a
separate, cloth, [Footnote: Your pudding and dumpling cloths should be
squares of coarse thick linen, hemmed, and with tape strings sewed to
them. After using, they should be washed, dried, and ironed; and kept
in one of the kitchen drawers, that they may be always ready when
wanted.] and put them into a pot of cold water. They will require about
an hour and a quarter after they begin to boil; perhaps longer.

Turn them out on a large dish, and be careful in doing so not to break
the dumplings. Eat them with cream sauce, or with wine sauce, or with
butter, sugar, and nutmeg beaten together.

PIGEON DUMPLINGS OR PUDDINGS.

Take four pigeons and stuff them with chopped oysters, seasoned with
pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg. Score the breasts, and loosen all the
joints with a sharp knife, as if you were going to carve them for
eating; but do not cut them quite apart. Make a sufficient quantity of
nice suet paste, allowing a pound of suet to two pounds of flour; roll
it out thick, and divide it into four. Lay one pigeon on each sheet of
the paste with the back downwards, and put at the lower part of the
breast a piece of butter rolled in flour. Close the paste over the
pigeon in the form of a dumpling or small pudding; pouring in at the
last a very little cold water to add to the gravy. Tie each dumpling in
a cloth, put them into a pot of hot water, and boil them two hours.
Send them to table with made gravy in a boat.

Partridges or quails may be cooked in this manner; also chickens, which
must be accompanied by egg sauce. These dumplings or puddings will be
found very good.

FINE SUET DUMPLINGS.

Grate the crumb of a stale six cent loaf, and mix it with nearly as
much beef suet, chopped as fine as possible. Add a grated nutmeg, and
two large table-spoonfuls of sugar. Beat four eggs with four
table-spoonfuls of white wine or brandy. Mix all well together to a
stiff paste. Flour your hands, and make up the mixture into balls or
dumplings about the size of turkey eggs. Have ready a pot of boiling
water. Put the dumplings into cloths, and let them boil about half an
hour. Serve them hot, and eat them with wine sauce.

PLAIN SUET DUMPLINGS.

Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and add a salt-spoon of salt.
Mince very fine one pound of beef suet, and rub it into the flour. Make
it into a stiff dough with a little cold water. Then roll it out an
inch thick or rather more. Cut it into dumplings with the edge of a
tumbler. Put them into a pot of boiling water, and let them boil an
hour and a half. Send them to table hot, to eat with boiled loin of
mutton, or with molasses after the meat is removed.

INDIAN DUMPLINGS.

Take a pint of milk, and four eggs well beaten. Stir them together, and
add a salt-spoon of salt. Then mix in as much sifted Indian meal as
will make a stiff dough. Flour your hands; divide the dough into equal
portions, and make it into balls about the size of a goose egg. Flatten
each with the rolling-pin, tie them in cloths, and put them into a pot
of boiling water. They will boil in a short time. Take care not to let
them go to pieces by keeping them too long in the pot.

Serve them up hot, and eat them with corned pork, or with bacon. Or you
may eat them with molasses and butter after the meat is removed.

If to be eaten without meat, you may mix in the dough a quarter of a
pound of finely chopped suet.

LIVER DUMPLINGS.

Take a calf’s liver, and chop it very fine. Mix with it half a pound of
beef suet chopped line also; half a pound of flour; two minced onions;
a handful of bread-crumbs; a table-spoonful of chopped parsley and
sweet marjoram mixed; a few blades of mace and a few cloves powdered;
and a little pepper and salt. Mix all well together. Wet the mixture
with six eggs well beaten, and make it up into dumplings, with your
hands well floured. Have ready a large pot of boiling water. Drop the
dumplings into it with a ladle, and let them boil an hour. Have ready
bread-crumbs browned in butter to poor over them before they go to
table.

HAM DUMPLINGS.

Chop some cold ham, the fat and lean in equal proportions. Season it
with pepper and minced sage. Make a crust, allowing half a pound of
chopped suet; or half a pound of butter to a pound of flour. Roll it
out thick, and divide it into equal portions. Put some minced ham into
each, and close up the crust. Have ready a pot of boiling water, and
put in the dumplings. Boil them about three quarters of an hour.

LIGHT DUMPLINGS.

Mix together as much grated bread, butter and beaten egg (seasoned with
powdered cinnamon) as will make a stiff paste. Stir it well. Make the
mixture into round dumplings, with your hands well floured. Tie up each
in a separate cloth, and boil them a short time,—about fifteen minutes.
Eat them with wine sauce, or with molasses and butter.

PLAIN FRITTERS.

Beat seven eggs very light, and stir them gradually into a quart of
milk; add, by degrees, three quarters of a pound, or a pint and a half
of sifted flour. Beat the whole very hard. Have ready in a frying-pan
over the fire, a large quantity of lard. When the lard has come to a
hard boil, begin to put in the fritters; allowing for each about a jill
of batter, or half a large tea-cup full. They do not require turning,
and will be done in a few minutes. Fry as many at a time as the pan
will hold. Send them to table hot, and eat them with powdered cinnamon,
sugar, and white wine. Let fresh hot ones be sent in as they are
wanted; they chill and become heavy immediately.

Begin to fry the fritters as soon as the batter is mixed, as it will
fall by setting. Near a pound and a half of lard will be required for
the above quantity of fritters.

APPLE FRITTERS.

Pave, core, and parboil (in a very little water) some large juicy
pippins. When half done, take them out, drain them, and mince them very
fine. Make a batter according to the preceding receipt; adding some
lemon juice and grated lemon-peel. Stir into the batter a sufficient
quantity of the minced apple to make it very thick. Then fry the
fritters in hot lard as before directed. Eat them with nutmeg and
sugar.

PLAIN PANCAKES.

Sift half a pound or a pint of flour. Beat seven eggs very light, and
stir them gradually into a quart of rich milk. Then add by degrees the
flour, so as to make a thin batter. Mix it very smooth, pressing out
all the lumps with the back of a spoon. Set the frying-pan over the
fire, and when it is hot, grease it with a spoonful of lard. Then put
in a ladle full of the batter, and fry it of a light brown, turning it
with care to prevent its breaking. Make each pancake large enough to
cover the bottom of a dessert plate; greasing the pan every time. Send
them to table hot, accompanied by powdered sugar and nutmeg mixed in a
small glass bowl. Have wine with them also.

SWEETMEAT PANCAKES.

Take a large red beet-root that has been boiled tender; cut it up and
pound it in a mortar till you have sufficient juice for colouring the
pancakes. Then make a batter as in the preceding receipt, and stir into
it at the last enough of the beet juice to give it a fine pink colour.
Or instead of the beet juice, you may use a little cochineal dissolved
in a very small quantity of brandy. Fry the pancakes in a pan greased
with lard or fresh butter; and as fast as they are done, spread thickly
over them raspberry jam or any sort of marmalade. Then roll them up
nicely, and trim off the ends. Lay them, side by side, on a large dish,
and strew powdered sugar over them. Send them to table hot, and eat
them with sweetened cream.

PLAIN CUSTARDS.

Tie together six or eight peach leaves, and boil them in a quart of
milk with a large stick of cinnamon broken up. If you cannot procure
peach leaves, substitute a handful of peach-kernels or bitter almonds,
or a vanilla bean split in pieces. When it has boiled hard, strain the
milk and set it away to cool. Beat very light eight eggs, and stir them
by degrees into the milk when it is quite cold, (if warm, the eggs will
curdle it, and cause whey at the bottom,) and add gradually a quarter
of a pound of sugar. Fill your cups with it; set them in a Dutch-oven,
and pour round them boiling water sufficient to reach nearly to the
tops of the cups. Put hot coals under the oven and on the lid, (which
must be previously heated by standing it up before a hot fire,) and
bake the custards about twenty minutes. Send them to table cold, with
nutmeg grated over each. Or you may bake the whole in one large dish.

SOFT CUSTARDS.

Are made in the above manner, except that to a quart of milk you must
have twelve yolks of eggs, and no whites. You may devote to this
purpose the yolks that are left when you have used the whites for
cocoa-nut or almond puddings, or for lady cake or maccaroons.

BOILED CUSTARDS.

Beat eight eggs very light, omitting the whites of four. Mix them
gradually with a quart of cold milk and a quarter of a pound of sugar.
Put the mixture into a sauce-pan with a bunch of peach leaves, or a
handful of broken up peach-kernels or bitter almonds; the yellow peel
of a. lemon, and a handful of broken cinnamon; or you may boil in it a
vanilla bean. Set it on hot coals, and simmer it slowly, stirring it
all the time. As soon as it comes to a boil, take it immediately off
the fire, or it will curdle and be lumpy. Then strain it; add eight or
ten drops of oil of lemon, and put it into glass cups. You may lay in
the bottom of each cup a maccaroon soaked in wine. Grate nutmeg over
the top, and send it to table cold. Eat it with tarts or sweetmeats.

RICE CUSTARD.

Boil some rice in milk till it is quite dry; then put it into small
tea-cups, (pressing it down hard,) and when it is cold and has taken
the shape of the cups, turn it out into a deep dish, and pour a boiled
custard round it. Lay on the top of each lump of rice a piece of
preserved quince or peach, or a piece of fruit jelly. In boiling the
rice, you may mix with, it raisins or currants; if so, omit the
sweetmeats on the top.

Another way of boiling custard is to put the mixture into a pitches,
set it in a vessel of boiling water, place it on hot coals or in a
stove, and let it boil slowly, stirring it all the time.

SNOWBALL CUSTARD.

Make a boiled custard as in the preceding receipts; and when it is done
and quite cold, put it into a deep glass dish. Beat to a stiff froth
the four whites of eggs that have been omitted in the custard, adding
eight or ten drops of oil of lemon. Drop the froth in balls on the top
of the dish of custard, heaping and forming them with a spoon into a
regular size and shape. Do not let them touch each other. You may lay a
fresh, rose leaf on the top of every one.

APPLE CUSTARD.

Pare, core, and quarter a dozen large juicy pippins. Strew among them
the yellow peel of a large lemon pared very thin; and stew them till
tender, in a very small portion of water. When done, mash them smooth
with the back of a spoon; (you must have a pint and a half of the
stewed apple;) mix a quarter of a pound of sugar with them, and set
them away till cold. Beat six eggs very light, and stir them gradually
into a quart of rich milk, alternately with the stewed apple. Put the
mixture into cups, or into a deep dish, and bake it about twenty
minutes. Send it to table cold, with nutmeg grated over the top.

LEMON CUSTARD.

Take four large ripe lemons, and roll them under your hand on the table
to increase the juice. Then squeeze them into a bowl, and mix with the
juice a very small tea-cup full of cold water. Use none of the peel.
Add gradually sufficient sugar to make it very sweet. Beat twelve eggs
till quite light, and then stir the lemon juice gradually into them,
beating very hard at the last. Put the mixture into cups, and bake it
ten minutes. When done, grate nutmeg over the top of each, and set them
among ice, or in a very cold place.

These custards being made without milk, can be prepared at a short
notice; they will be found very fine.

Orange custards may be made in the same manner.

GOOSEBERRY CUSTARD.

Top and tail two quarts of green gooseberries. Stew them in a very
little water; stirring and mashing them frequently. When they have
stewed till entirely to pieces, take them out, and with a wooden spoon
press the pulp through a cullender. Stir in (while the pulp is hot) a
table-spoonful of butter, and sufficient sugar to make it very sweet.
Beat six eggs very light. Simmer the gooseberry pulp over a gentle
fire, and gradually stir the beaten eggs into it. When it comes to a
boil, take it off immediately, stir it very hard, and set it out to
cool. Serve it up cold in glasses or custard cups, grating some nutmeg;
over each.

ALMOND CUSTARD.

Scald and blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three
ounces of shelled bitter almonds; throwing them as you do them into a
large bowl of cold water. Then pound them one at a time in a mortar;
pouring in frequently a little rose water to prevent their oiling, and
becoming dark-coloured and heavy. Melt a quarter of a pound of
loaf-sugar in a quart of cream or rich milk, and stir in by degrees the
pounded almonds. Beat ten eggs very light, and stir them gradually into
the mixture; adding a powdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered
mace and cinnamon mixed. Then put the whole into a pitcher, and place
it in a kettle or pan of boiling water, the water coming up to the
lower part of the neck of the pitcher. Set it over hot coals, and let
it boil (stirring it all the time) till it is quite thick, but not till
it curdles. Then take the pitcher out of the water; pour the custard
into a large bowl, and stir it till it cools. Put it into glass cups,
and send it to table cold. Sweeten some cream or white of egg. Beat it
to stiff froth, and pile it on the top of the custards.

BOILED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.

To a pound of grated cocoa-nut allow a pint of unskimmed milk, and six
ounces of white sugar. Beat very light the yolks of six eggs. Stir them
gradually into the milk, alternately with the cocoa-nut and sugar. Put
the mixture into a pitcher; set it in a vessel of boiling water; place
it on hot coals, and simmer it till it is very smooth and thick;
stirring it all the time. As soon as it comes to a hard boil, take it
off the fire; pour it into a large bowl, and set it out to cool. When
cold, put it into glass cups. Beat to a stiff froth the white of egg
that was left, and pile it on the custards.

BAKED COCOA-NUT CUSTARD.

Grate as much cocoa-nut as will weigh a pound. Mix half a pound of
powdered white sugar with the milk of the cocoa-nut, or with a pint of
cream; adding two table-spoonfuls of rose water. Then stir in gradually
a pint of rich milk. Beat to a stiff froth the whites of eight eggs,
and stir them into the milk and sugar, a little at a time, alternately
with the grated cocoa-nut; add a tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and
cinnamon. Then put the mixture into cups, and bake them twenty minutes
in a Dutch oven half filled with boiling water. When cold, grate
loaf-sugar over them.

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD.

Scrape fine a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate, and pour on it
a tea-cup of boiling water. Cover it, and let it stand by the fire till
it has dissolved, stirring it twice. Beat eight eggs very light,
omitting the whites of two. Stir them by degrees into a quart of cream
or rich milk, alternately with the melted chocolate, and three
table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar. Pat the mixture into cups, and
bake it about ten minutes. Send them to table cold, with sweetened
cream, or white of egg beaten to a stiff froth, and heaped on the top
of each custard.

MACCAROON CUSTARDS.

These must he made in china custard cups. Put a maccaroon in the bottom
of each cup, and pour on it a table-spoonful of white wine. Mix
together a pint of cream, and a pint of milk; and boil them with a
large stick of cinnamon broken up, and a small bunch of peach leaves or
a handful of broken bitter almonds. Then strain the milk; stir in a
quarter of a pound of white sugar, and set it away to cool. Beat very
light eight eggs, (omitting the whites of four,) and stir them
gradually into the cream and milk when quite cold. Fill your cups with
the mixture, (leaving the maccaroons at the bottom,) and set them in a
Dutch oven or iron baking pan, which must be half full of boiling
water. Heat the oven-lid first, by standing it up before a hot fire;
then put it on, spreading coals over the top. Place sufficient coals
under the oven, and bake the custards about ten minutes. When cold,
heap beaten white of egg on the top of each. These custards are very
fine.



SYLLABUB, OR WHIPT CREAM.


Pare off very thin the yellow rind of four large lemons, And lay it in
the bottom of a deep dish. Squeeze the juice of the lemons into a large
bowl containing a pint of white wine, and sweeten it with half a pound
of powdered loaf-sugar Then, by degrees, mix in a quart of cream. Pour
the whole into the dish in which you have laid the lemon-peel, and let
the mixture stand untouched for three hours. Then beat it with rods to
a stiff froth, (first taking out the lemon-peel,) and having put into
each of your glasses a table-spoonful or more of fruit jelly, heap the
syllabub upon it so as to stand up high at the top. This syllabub, if
it can be kept in a cold place, may be made the day before you want to
use it.

COUNTRY SYLLABUB.

Mix half a pound of white sugar with a pint of fine sweet cider, or of
white wine; and grate in a nutmeg. Prepare them in a large bowl, just
before milking time. Then let it be taken to the cow, and have about
three pints milked into it; stirring it occasionally with a spoon. Let
it be eaten before the froth subsides. If you use cider, a little
brandy will improve it.

A TRIFLE.

Place half a pound of maccaroons or Naples biscuits at the bottom of a
large glass bowl. Pour on them as much white wine as will cover and
dissolve them. Make a rich custard, flavoured with bitter almonds or
peach leaves; and pour it when cold on the maccaroons; the custard may
be either baked or boiled. Then add a layer of marmalade or jam. Take a
quart of cream, mix with it a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half a
pint of white wine, and whip it with rods to a stiff froth; laying the
froth (as you proceed) on an inverted sieve, with a dish under it to
catch the cream that drips through; which must be saved and whipped
over again. Instead of rods you may use a little tin churn. Pile the
frothed cream upon the marmalade in a high pyramid. To ornament
it,—take preserved water-melon rind that has been cut into leaves or
flowers; split them nicely to make them thinner and lighter; place a
circle or wreath of them round the heap of frothed cream, interspersing
them with spots of stiff red currant jelly. Stick on the top of the
pyramid a sprig of real flowers.

FLOATING ISLAND.

Take a quart of rich cream, and divide it in half. Sweeten one pint of
it with loaf-sugar, and stir into it sufficient currant jelly to colour
it of a fine pink. Put it into a glass bowl, and place in the centre a
pile of sliced almond-sponge cake, or of lady cake; every slice spread
thickly with raspberry jam or marmalade, and laid evenly one on
another. Have ready the other pint of cream, flavoured with a few drops
of oil of lemon, and beaten with rods to a stiff froth. Heap it all
over the pile of cake, so as entirely to cover it.

A RASPBERRY CHARLOTTE.

Take a dozen of the square or oblong sponge-cakes that are commonly
called Naples biscuits. They should be quite fresh. Spread over each a
thick layer of raspberry jam, and place them in the bottom and round
the sides of a glass bowl. Take the whites of six eggs, and mix with
them six table-spoonfuls of raspberry or currant jelly. Beat the egg
and jelly with rods till very light, and then fill up the bowl with it.
For this purpose, cream (if you can conveniently procure it) is still
better than white of egg.

You may make a charlotte with any sort of jam, marmalade, or fruit
jelly. It can be prepared at a short notice, and is very generally
liked.

A PLUM CHARLOTTE.

Stone a quart of ripe plums, and stew them with a pound of brown sugar.
Cut slices of bread and butter and lay them in the bottom and round the
sides of a large bowl or deep dish. Pour in the plums boiling hot,
cover the bowl, and set it away to cool gradually. When, quite cold,
send it to table, and eat it with cream.

CLOTTED CREAM.

Mix together a jill of rich milk, a large wine glass of rose water, and
four ounces of white sugar. Add to it the beaten yolks of two eggs.
Stir the mixture into a quart of the best cream; set it over hot coals,
and let it just come to a boil, stirring it all the time. Then take it
off, pour it into a glass bowl, and set it away to get cold. Eat it
with fresh strawberries, raspberries, or with any sort of sweetmeats.

LEMON CREAM.

Beat well together a quart of thick cream and the yolks of eight eggs.
Then gradually beat in half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and the
grated rind of three large lemons. Put the mixture into a porcelain
skillet, and set it on hot coals till it comes to a boil; then take it
off, and stir it till nearly cold. Squeeze the juice of the lemons into
a bowl; pour the cream upon it, and continue to stir it till quite
cold. You may serve it up in a glass bowl, in glass cups, or in jelly
glasses. Eat it with tarts or sweetmeats.

ORANGE CREAM.

Beat very light six eggs, omitting the whites of two. Have ready a pint
of orange juice, and stir it gradually into the beaten egg, alternately
with a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put into a porcelain skillet the
yellow rind of one orange, pared very thin; pour the mixture upon it,
and set it over a slow fire. Simmer it steadily, stirring it all the
time; but when nearly ready to boil, take it off, remove the
orange-peel, and put the mixture into glasses to get cold.

CURDS AND WHEY.

Take a piece of rennet about three inches square, and wash it in two or
three cold waters to get off the salt; wipe it dry, and fasten a string
to one corner of it. Have ready in a deep dish or pan, a quart of
unskimmed milk that has been warmed but not boiled. Put the rennet into
it, leaving the string hanging out over the side, that you may know
where to find it. Cover the pan, and set it by the fire-side or in some
other warm place. When the milk becomes a firm mass of curd, and the
whey looks clear and greenish, remove the rennet as gently as possible,
pulling it out by the string; and set the pan in ice, or in a very cold
place. Send to table with it a small pitcher of white wine, sugar and
nutmeg mixed together; or a bowl of sweetened cream, with nutmeg grated
over it.

You may keep rennet in white wine; cutting it in small pieces, and
putting it into a glass jar with wine enough to cover it well. Either
the wine or the rennet will be found good for turning milk; but do not
put in both together, or the curd will become so hard and tough, as to
be uneatable.

Rennets properly prepared and dried, are sold constantly in the
Philadelphia markets. The cost is trifling; and it is well to have one
always in the house, in case of being wanted to make whey for sick
persons. They will keep a year or more.

LEMON ICE CREAM.

Have ready two quarts of very rich thick cream, and take out a pint.
Stir gradually into the pint, a pound of the best loaf-sugar powdered
fine; and the grated rind and the juice of four ripe lemons of the
largest size, or of five or six smaller ones. If you cannot procure the
fruit, you may flavour the cream with essence or oil of lemon; a
tea-spoonful or more, according to its strength. The strongest and best
essence of lemon is the white or whitish; when tinged with green, it is
comparatively weak, having been diluted with water; if quite green, a
large tea-spoonful will not communicate as much flavour as five or six
drops of the white. After you have mixed the pint of cream with the
sugar and lemon, beat it gradually and hard into the remaining cream,
that is, the three pints. Cover it, and let it stand to infuse from
half an hour to an hour. Then taste it, and if you think it necessary,
stir in a little more lemon juice or a little more sugar. Strain it
into the freezer through a fine strainer, (a tin one with small close
holes is best,) to get rid of the grated lemon-peel, which if left in
would prevent the cream from being smooth. Cover the freezer, and stand
it in the ice cream tub, which should be filled with a mixture, in
equal quantities, of coarse salt, and ice broken up as small as
possible, that it may lie close and compact round the freezer, and thus
add to its coldness. Snow, when it can be procured, is still better
than ice to mix with the salt. It should be packed closely into the
tub, and pressed down hard. Keep turning the freezer about by the
handle till the cream is frozen, which it will generally be in two
hours. Occasionally open the lid and scrape down the cream from the
sides with a long-handled tin spoon. Take care that no salt gets in, or
the cream will be spoiled. When it is entirely frozen, take it out of
the freezer and put it into your mould; set it again in the tub, (which
must be filled with fresh ice and salt,) and leave it undisturbed till
you want it for immediate use. This second freezing, however, should
not continue longer than two hours, or the cream will become
inconveniently and unpleasantly hard, and have much of the flavour
frozen out of it. Place the mould in the ice tub, with the head
downwards, and cover the tub with pieces of old carpet while the second
freezing is going on. When it has arrived at the proper consistence,
and it is time to serve it up, dip a cloth in hot water, and wrap it
round the mould for a few moments, to loosen the cream and make it come
out easily; setting the mould on a glass or china dish. If a pyramid or
obelisk mould, lift it carefully off the top. If the mould or form
represents doves, dolphins, lap-dogs, fruit baskets, &c. it will open
down the middle, and must be taken off in that manner. Serve it up
immediately lest it begin to melt. Send round sponge-cake with it, and
wine or cordials immediately after.

If you have no moulds, but intend serving it up in a large bowl or in
glasses, it must still be frozen twice over; otherwise it can have no
smoothness, delicacy, or consistence, but will be rough and coarse, and
feel in the mouth like broken icicles. The second freezing (if you have
no mould) must be done in the freezer, which should be washed out, and
set again in the tub with fresh ice and salt. Cover it closely, and let
the cream stand in it untouched, but not less than two hours. When you
put it into glasses, heap it high on the top.

Begin to make ice cream about five or six hours before it is wanted for
use. If you commence it too early, it may probably be injured by having
to remain too long in the second freezing, as it must not be turned out
till a few moments before it is served up. In damp weather it requires
a longer time to freeze.

If cream is scarce, mix with it an equal quantity of rich milk, and
then add, for each quart, two table-spoonfuls of powdered arrow-root
rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Orange ice cream is made in the
same manner as lemon.

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM.

Take two quarts of ripe strawberries; hull them, and put them into a
deep dish, strewing among them half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
Cover them, and let them stand an hour or two. Then mash them through a
sieve till you have pressed out all the juice, and stir into it half a
pound more of powdered sugar, or enough to make it very sweet, and like
a thick syrup. Then mix it by degrees with two quarts of rich cream,
beating it in very hard. Put it into a freezer, and proceed as in the
foregoing receipt. In two hours, remove it to a mould, or take it out
and return it again to the freezer with fresh salt and ice, that it may
be frozen a second time. In two hours more, it should be ready to turn
out.

RASPBERRY ICE CREAM.

Is made according to the preceding receipt.

PINE-APPLE ICE CREAM.

To each quart of cream allow a large ripe pine-apple, and a pound of
powdered loaf-sugar. Pare the pine-apple, slice it very thin, and mince
it small. Lay it in a deep dish and strew the sugar among it. Cover the
dish, and let the pine-apple lie in the sugar for two or three hours.
Then strain it through a sieve, mashing and pressing out all the juice.
Stir the juice gradually into the cream, beating it hard. Put it into
the freezer, and let it be twice frozen before it is served up.

VANILLA ICE CREAM.

Split up half a vanilla bean, and boil it slowly in half a pint of milk
till all the flavour is drawn out, which you may know by tasting it.
Then mix into the milk half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and stir it
very hard into a quart of rich cream. Put it into the freezer, and
proceed as directed in the receipt for Lemon Ice Cream; freezing it
twice.

ALMOND ICE CREAM.

Take six ounces of bitter almonds, (sweet ones will not do,) blanch
them, and pound them in a mortar, adding by degrees a little rose
water. Then boil them gently in a pint of cream till you find that it
is highly flavoured with them. Then pour the cream into a bowl, stir in
a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, cover it, and set it away to cool
gradually; when it is cold, strain it and then stir it gradually and
hard into three pints of cream. Put it into the freezer, and proceed as
directed in the first ice cream receipt. Freeze it twice. It will be
found very fine.

Send round always with ice cream, sponge cake or Savoy biscuits.
Afterwards wine, and cordials, or liqueurs as they are now generally
called.

ICE ORANGEADE.

Take a pint and a half of orange juice, and mix it with half a pint of
clear or filtered water. Stir in half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
Pare very thin the yellow rind of six deep-coloured oranges, cut in
pieces, and lay it at the bottom of a bowl or tureen. Pour the orange
juice and sugar upon it; cover it, and let it infuse an hour. Then
strain the liquid into a freezer, and proceed as for ice cream. When it
is frozen, put it into a mould, (it will look best in the form of a
pine-apple,) and freeze it a second time. Serve it in glass cups, with
any sort of very nice sweet cakes.

ICE LEMONADE.

May be made in the above manner, but with a larger proportion of sugar.

The juice of pine-apples, strawberries, raspberries, currants and
cherries, may be prepared and frozen according to the above receipts.
They will freeze in a shorter time than if mixed with cream, but are
very inferior in richness.

BLANC-MANGE.

Put into a bowl an ounce of isinglass; (in warm weather you must take
an ounce and a quarter;) pour on as much rose water as will cover the
isinglass, and set it on hot ashes to dissolve. [Footnote: You may make
the stock for blanc-mange without isinglass, by boiling four calves’
feet in two quarts of water till reduced one half, and till the meat is
entirely to rags. Strain it, and set it away till next day. Then clear
it from the fat and sediment; cut it into pieces and boil it with the
cream and the other ingredients. When you take it from the fire, and
strain it into the pitcher, keep stirring it till it gets cold.] Blanch
a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds, (half sweet and half bitter,)
and beat them to a paste in a mortar, (one at a time,) moistening them
all the while with a little rose water. Stir the almonds by degrees
into a quart of cream, alternately with half a pound of powdered white
sugar; add a large tea-spoonful of beaten mace. Put in the melted
isinglass, and stir the whole very hard. Then put it into a porcelain
skillet, and let it boil fast for a quarter of an hour. Then strain it
into a pitcher, and pour it into your moulds, which must first be
wetted with cold water. Let it stand in a cool place undisturbed, till
it has entirely congealed, which will be in about five hours. Then wrap
a cloth dipped in hot water round the moulds, loosen the blanc-mange
round the edges with a knife, and turn it out into glass dishes. It is
best to make it the day before it is wanted.

Instead of using a figure-mould, you may set it to congeal in tea-cups
or wine glasses.

Blanc-mange may be coloured green by mixing with the cream a little
juice of spinage; cochineal which has been infused in a little brandy
for half an hour, will colour it red; and saffron will give it a bright
yellow tinge.

CARRAGEEN BLANC-MANGE.

This is made of a sea-weed resembling moss, that is found in large
quantities on some parts of our coast, and is to be purchased in the
cities at most of the druggists. Carrageen costs but little, and is
considered extremely salutary for persons of delicate constitutions.
Its glutinous nature when boiled, renders it very suitable for
blanc-mange.

From a quart of rich unskimmed milk take half a pint. Add to the half
pint two ounces of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded; half a nutmeg;
and a large stick of cinnamon, broken up; also eight or nine blades of
mace. Set it in a closed pan over hot coals, and boil it half an hour.
In the mean time, wash through two or three _cold_ waters half a
handful of carrageen, (if you put in too much it will communicate an
unpleasant taste to the blanc-mange,) and add it to the pint and a half
of cold milk. Then when it is sufficiently flavoured, stir in the
boiled milk, adding gradually half a pound of powdered sugar, and mix
the whole very well. Set it over the fire, and keep it boiling hard
five minutes from the time it has come to a boil. Then strain it into a
pitcher; wet your moulds or cups with cold water, put the blanc-mange
into them, and leave it undisturbed till it congeals.

After washing the sea-weed, you must drain it well, and shake the water
from the sprigs. You may flavour the mixture (_after_ it is boiled and
strained) with rose-water or peach-water, stirred in at the last.

ARROW ROOT BLANC-MANGE.

Take a tea-cup full of arrow root, put it into a large bowl, and
dissolve it in a little cold water. When it is melted, pour off the
water, and let the arrow root remain undisturbed. Boil in half a pint
of unskimmed milk, (made very sweet with white sugar,) a beaten nutmeg,
and eight or nine blades of mace, mixed with the juice and grated peel
of a lemon. When it has boiled long enough to be highly flavoured,
strain it into a pint and a half of very rich milk or cream, and add a
quarter of a pound of sugar. Boil the whole for ten minutes; then
strain it, boiling hot, over the arrow roof. Stir it well and
frequently till cold; then put it into moulds and let it set to
congeal.

JAUNE-MANGE.

Put two ounces of isinglass into a pint of water, and boil it till it
has dissolved. Then strain it into a porcelain skillet, and add to it
half a pint of white wine; the grated peel and juice of two large
deep-coloured oranges; half a pound of loaf-sugar; and the yolks only
of eight eggs that have been well beaten. Mix the whole thoroughly;
place it on hot coals and simmer it, stirring it all the time till it
boils hard. Then take it off directly, strain it, and put it into
moulds to congeal.

CALVES’ FOOT JELLY.

The best calves’ feet for jelly are those that have had the hair
removed by scalding, but are not skinned; the skin containing a great
deal of glutinous matter. In Philadelphia, unskinned calves’ feet are
generally to be met with in the lower or Jersey market.

Boil a set of feet in four quarts of cold water; (if the feet have been
skinned allow but three quarts;) they should boil slowly till the
liquid is reduced to two quarts or one half the original quantity, and
the meat has dropped in rags from the bone. Then strain the liquid;
measure and set it away in a large earthen pan to get cold; and let it
rest till next morning. Then, if you do not find it a firm cake of
jelly, boil it over again with an ounce of isinglass, and again set it
away till cold and congealed. Remove the sediment from the bottom of
the cake of jelly, and carefully scrape off all the fat. The smallest
bit of fat will eventually render it dull and cloudy. Press some clean
blotting paper all over it to absorb what little grease may yet remain.
Then cut the cake of jelly into pieces, and put it into a porcelain
kettle to melt over the fire. To each quart allow a pound of broken up
loaf-sugar, a pint of Madeira wine, and a large glass of brandy; three
large sticks of the best Ceylon cinnamon broken up, (if common
cinnamon, use four sticks,) the grated peel and juice of four large
lemons; and lastly, the whites of four eggs strained, but not beaten.
In breaking the eggs, take care to separate them so nicely that none of
the yellow gets into the white; as the smallest portion of yolk of egg
will prevent the jelly from being perfectly clear. Mix all the
ingredients well together, and put them to the jelly in the kettle. Set
it on the fire, and boil it hard for twenty minutes, but do not stir
it. Then throw in a tea-cup of cold water, and boil it five minutes
longer; then take the kettle off the fire, and set it aside, keeping it
closely covered for half an hour; this will improve its clearness. Take
a large white flannel jelly-bag; suspend it by the strings to a wooden
frame made for such purposes, or to the legs of a table. Pour in the
mixture boiling hot, and when it is all in, close up the mouth of the
bag that none of the flavour may evaporate. Hang it over a deep white
dish or bowl, and let it drip slowly; but on no account squeeze the
bag, as that will certainly make the jelly dull and cloudy. If it is
not clear the first time, empty the bag, wash it, put in the jelly that
has dripped into the dish, and pass it through again. Repeat this till
it is clear. You may put it into moulds to congeal, setting them in a
cold place. When it is quite firm, wrap a cloth that has been dipped in
hot water, round the moulds to make the jelly turn out easily. But it
will look much better, and the taste will be more lively, if you break
it up after it has congealed, and put it into a glass bowl, or heap it
in jelly glasses Unless it is broken, its sparkling clearness shows to
little advantage.

After the clear jelly has done dripping, you may return the ingredients
to the kettle, and warm them over again for about five minutes. Then
put them into the bag (which you may now squeeze hard) till all the
liquid is pressed out of it into a second dish or bowl. This last jelly
cannot, of course, be clear, but it will taste very well, and may be
eaten in the family.

A pound of the best raisins picked and washed, and boiled with the
other ingredients, is thought by many persons greatly to improve the
richness and flavour or calves’ feet jelly. They must be put in whole,
and can be afterwards used for a pudding.

Similar jelly may be made of pigs’ or sheep’s feet; but it is not so
nice and delicate as that of calves.

By boiling two sets, or eight calves’ feet in five quarts of Water, you
may be sure of having the jelly very firm. In damp weather it is
sometimes very difficult to get it to congeal if you use but one set of
feet; there is the same risk if the weather is hot. In winter it maybe
made several days before it is to be eaten. In summer it will keep in
ice for two days; perhaps longer.

TO PRESERVE CREAM.

Take four quarts of new cream; it must he of the richest quality, and
have no milk mixed with it. Put it into a preserving kettle, and simmer
it gently over the fire; carefully taking off whatever scum may rise to
the top, till nothing more appears. Then stir, gradually, into it four
pounds of double-refined loaf-sugar that has been finely powdered and
sifted. Let the cream and sugar boil briskly together half an hour;
skimming it, if necessary, and afterwards stirring it as long as it
continues on the fire. Put it into small bottles; and when it is cold,
cork it, and secure the corks with melted rosin. This cream, if
properly prepared, will keep perfectly good during a long sea voyage.

ITALIAN CREAM.

Put two pints of cream into two bowls. With one bowl mix six ounces of
powdered loaf-sugar, the juice of two large lemons, and two glasses of
white wine. Then add the other pint of cream, and stir the whole very
hard. Boil two ounces, of isinglass with, four small tea-cups full of
water, till it is reduced to one half. Then stir the isinglass
lukewarm, into the other ingredients, and put them into a glass dish to
congeal.

CHOCOLATE CREAM.

Melt six ounces of scraped chocolate and four ounces of white sugar in
half a pint of boiling; water. Stir in an ounce of dissolved isinglass.
When the whole has boiled, pour it into a mould.

COLOURING FOR CONFECTIONARY.

_RED._

Take twenty grains of cochineal, and fifteen grains of cream of tartar
finely powdered; add to them a piece of alum the size of a cherry
stone, and boil them with a jill of soft water, in an earthen vessel,
slowly, for half an hour. Then strain it through muslin, and keep it
tightly-corked in a phial.

_COCHINEAL FOR PRESENT USE._

Take two cents’ worth of cochineal. Lay it on a flat plate, and bruise
it with the blade of a knife. Put it into half a tea-cup of white
brandy. Let it stand a quarter of an hour, and then filter it through
fine muslin.

_YELLOW COLOURING._

Take a little saffron, put it into an earthen vessel with a very small
quantity of cold soft water, and let it steep till the colour of the
infusion is a bright yellow. Then strain it. The yellow seeds of lilies
will answer nearly the saffron’s purpose.

_GREEN._

Take fresh spinach or beet leaves, and pound them in a marble mortar.
If you want it for immediate use, take off the green froth as it rises,
and mix it with the article you intend to colour. If you wish to keep
it a few days, take the juice when you have pressed out a tea-cup full,
and adding to it a piece of alum the size of a pea, give it a boil in a
sauce-pan.

_WHITE_

Blanch some almonds, soak them in cold water, and then pound them to a
smooth paste in a marble mortar; adding at intervals a little rose
water. Thick cream will communicate a white colour.

These preparations may be used for jellies, ice creams, blanc-mange,
syllabubs, icing for cakes; and for various articles of confectionary.



CAKES, ETC.


GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Unless you are provided with proper and convenient utensils and
materials, the difficulty of preparing cakes will be great, and in most
instances a failure; involving disappointment, waste of time, and
useless expense. Accuracy in proportioning the ingredients is
indispensable; and therefore scales and weights, and a set of tin
measures (at least from a quart down to a jill) are of the utmost
importance. A large sieve for flour is also necessary; and smaller ones
for sugar and spice. There should be a marble mortar, or one of lignum
vitae, (the hardest of all wood;) those of iron (however well, tinned)
are apt to discolour the articles pounded in them. Spice may be ground
in a mill kept, exclusively for that purpose. Every kitchen should be
provided with spice-boxes. You should have a large grater for lemon,
cocoa-nut, &c., and a small one for nutmeg. Butter and sugar cannot be
stirred together conveniently without a spaddle or spattle, which is a
round stick flattened at one end; and a deep earthen pan with sides
nearly straight. For beating eggs, you should have hickory rods or a
wire whip, and broad shallow earthen pans. Neither the eggs, nor the
butter and sugar should be beaten, in tin, as the coldness of the metal
will prevent them from becoming light.

For baking large cakes, the pans (whether of block tin or earthen)
should have straight sides; if the aides slope inward, there will be
much difficulty in icing the cake. Pans with a hollow tube going up
from the centre, are supposed to diffuse the heat more equally through
the middle of the cake. Buns and some other cakes should be baked in
square shallow pans of block tin or iron. Little tins for queen cakes,
&c. are most convenient when of a round or oval shape. All baking pans,
whether large or small, should be well greased with butter or lard
before the mixture is put into them, and should be filled but little
more than half. You should have at least two dozen little tins, that a
second supply may be ready for the oven, the moment the first is taken
out. You will also want tin cutters for cakes that are rolled out in
dough.

All the utensils should be cleaned and put away as soon as they are
done with. They should be all kept together, and, if possible, not used
for any other purposes. [Footnote: All the utensils necessary for cake
and pastry-making, (and for the other branches of cooking,) may be
purchased in Philadelphia; at Gideon Cox’s household store in Market
street, No. 335, two doors below Ninth. Every thing of the sort will be
found there in great variety, of good quality, and at reasonable
prices.]

As it is always desirable that, cake-making should be commenced at an
early hour, it is well on the day previous to ascertain if all the
materials are in the house; that there may be no unnecessary delay from
sending or waiting for them in the morning. Wastefulness is to be
avoided in every thing; but it is utterly impossible that cakes can be
good (or indeed any thing else) without a liberal allowance of good
materials. Cakes are frequently rendered hard, heavy, and uneatable by
a misplaced economy in eggs and butter; or tasteless and insipid for
want of their due seasoning of spice, lemon, &c.

Use no flour but the best superfine; if the flour is of inferior.
quality, the cakes will he heavy, ill-coloured, and unfit to eat. Even
the best flour should always be sifted. No butter that is not fresh and
good; should ever be put into cakes; for it will give them a
disagreeable taste which can never be disguised by the other
ingredients. Even when of excellent quality, the butter will be
improved by washing it in cold, water, and squeezing and pressing it.
Except for gingerbread, use only white sugar, (for the finest cakes the
best loaf,) and have it pulverized by pounding it in a mortar, or
crushing it on the paste-board with the rolling-pin. It should then be
sifted. In mixing butter and sugar, sift the sugar into a deep pan, cut
up the butter in it, set it in a warm place to soften, and then stir it
very hard with the spaddle, till it becomes quite light, and of the
consistence of cream. In preparing eggs, break them one at a time, into
a saucer, that, in case there should be a bad one among them, it may
not spoil the others. Put them into a broad shallow pan, and beat them
with rods or with a wire whisk, not merely till they froth, but long
afterwards, till the froth subsides, and they become thick and smooth
like boiled custard. White of egg by itself may be beaten with small
rods, or with a three-pronged fork, or a broad knife. It is a very easy
process, and should be continued till the liquid is all converted into
a stiff froth so firm that it will not drop from the rods when held up.
In damp weather it is sometimes difficult to get the froth stiff.

The first thing to be done in making cake, is to weigh or measure all
the ingredients. Next sift the flour, powder the sugar, pound or grind
the spice, and prepare the fruit; afterwards mix and stir the butter
and sugar, and lastly beat the eggs; as, if allowed to stand any time,
they will fall and become heavy. When all the ingredients are mixed
together, they should be stirred very hard at the last; and (unless
there is yeast in the cake) the sooner it is put into the oven the
better. While baking, no air should be admitted to it, except for a
moment, now and then, when it is necessary to examine if it is baking
properly, For baking; cakes, the best guide is practice and experience;
so much depending on the state of the fire, that it is impossible to
lay down any infallible rules.

If you bake in a Dutch oven, let the lid be first heated by standing it
up before the fire; and cover the inside of the bottom with sand or
ashes, to temper the heat. For the same purpose, when you bake in a
stove, place bricks under the pans. Sheets of iron without sides will
be found very useful for baking small flat cakes. For cakes of this
description, the fire should be brisk; if baked slowly, they will
spread, lose their shape, and run into each other. For all cakes, the
heat should be regular and even; if one part of the oven is cooler than
another, the cake will bake imperfectly, and have heavy streaks through
it. Gingerbread (on account of the molasses) is more apt to scorch and
burn than any other cake; therefore it should he baked with a moderate
fire.

It is safest, when practicable, to send all large cakes to a
professional baker’s; provided they can be put immediately into the
oven, as standing will spoil them. If you bake them at home, you will
find that they are generally done when they cease to make a simmering
noise; and when on probing them to the bottom with a twig from a broom,
or with the blade of the knife, it comes out quite clean. The fire
should then be withdrawn, and the cake allowed to get cold in the oven.
Small cakes should be laid to cool on an inverted sieve. It may be
recommended to novices in the art of baking, to do every thing in
little tins or in very shallow pans; there being then less risk than
with a large thick cake. In mixing batter that is to be baked in small
cakes; use less proportion of flour.

Small cakes should be kept closely covered in stone jars. For large
ones, you should have broad stone pans with close lids, or else tin
boxes. All cakes that are made with yeast should be eaten quite fresh;
so also should sponge cake. Some sorts may be kept a week; black cake
much longer.

BLACK CAKE.

Prepare two pounds of currants by picking them clean, washing and
draining them, through a cullender, and then spreading them out on a
large dish to dry before the fire or in the sun, placing the dish in a
slanting position. Pick and stone two pounds of the best raisins, and
cut them in half. Dredge the currants (when they are dry) and the
raisins thickly with flour to prevent them from sinking in the cake.
Grind or powder as much cinnamon as will make a large gravy-spoonful
when done; also a table-spoonful of mace and four nutmegs; sift these
spices, and mix them all together in a cup. Mix together two large
glasses of white wine, one of brandy and one of rose water, and cut a
pound of citron into large slips. Sift a pound of flour into one pan,
and a pound of powdered loaf-sugar into another. Cut up among the sugar
a pound of the best fresh butter, and stir them to a cream. Beat twelve
eggs till perfectly thick and smooth, and stir them gradually into the
butter and sugar, alternately with the flour. Then add by degrees, the
fruit, spice and liquor, and stir the whole very hard at the last. Then
put the mixture into a well-buttered tin pan with straight or
perpendicular sides. Put it immediately into a moderate oven, and bake
it at least four hours. When done, let it remain in the oven to get
cold; it will be the better for staying in all night. Ice it next
morning; first dredging the outside all over with flour, and then
wiping it with a towel. This will make the icing stick.

ICING.

A quarter of a pound of finely powdered loaf-sugar, of the whitest and
best quality, is the usual allowance to one white of egg. For the cake
in the preceding receipt, three quarters of a pound of sugar and the
whites of three eggs will be about the proper quantity. Beat the white
of egg by itself till it stands alone. Have ready the powdered sugar,
and then beat it hard into the white of egg, till it becomes thick and
smooth; flavouring it as you proceed with a few drops of oil of lemon,
or a little extract of roses. Spread it evenly over the cake with a
broad knife or a feather; if you find it too thin, beat in a little
more powdered sugar. Cover with it thickly the top and sides of the
cake, taking care not to have it rough and streaky. To ice well
requires skill and practice. When the icing is about half dry, put on
the ornaments. You may flower it with coloured sugar-sand or nonparels;
but a newer and more elegant mode is to decorate it with, devices and
borders in white sugar; they can be procured at the confectioners, and
look extremely well on icing that has been tinted with pink by the
addition of a little cochineal.

You may colour icing of a pale or deep yellow, by rubbing the lumps of
loaf-sugar (before they are powdered) upon the outside of a large lemon
or orange. This will also flavour it finely.

Almond icing, for a very fine cake, is made by mixing gradually with
the white of egg and. sugar, some almonds, half bitter and half sweet,
that have been pounded in a mortar with rose water to a smooth paste.
The whole must be well incorporated, and spread over the cake near half
an inch thick. It must be set in a cool oven to dry, and then taken out
and covered with a smooth plain icing of sugar and white of egg.

Whatever icing is left, may be used to make maccaroons or kisses.


POUND CAKE.

Prepare a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of
powdered mace, and two nutmegs grated or powdered. Mix together in a
tumbler, a glass of white—wine, a glass of brandy, and a glass of rose
water. Sift a pound of the finest flour into a broad pan, and powder a
pound of loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a deep pan, and cut up in it a
pound of fresh butter. Warm them by the fire till soft; and then stir
them to a cream. When they are perfectly light, add gradually the spice
and liquor, a little at a time. Beat ten eggs as light as possible, and
stir them by degrees into the mixture, alternately with the flour. Then
add twelve drops of oil of lemon; or more, if it is not strong. Stir
the whole very hard; put it into a deep tin pan with straight or
upright sides, and bake it in a moderate oven from two to three hours.
If baked in a Dutch oven, take off the lid when you have ascertained
that the cake is quite done, and let it remain in the oven to cool
gradually. If any part is burnt, scrape it off as soon as cold.

It may be iced either warm or cool; first dredging the cake with flour
and then wiping it off. It will be best to put on two coats of icing;
the second coat not till the first is entirely dry. Flavour the icing
with essence of lemon, or with extract of roses.

This cake will be very delicate if made with a pound of rice flour
instead of wheat.

INDIAN POUND CAKE.

Sift a pint of fine yellow Indian meal, and half a pint of wheat flour,
and mix them well together. Prepare a nutmeg beaten, and mixed with a
table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir together till very light,
half a pound of powdered white sugar; and half a pound of fresh butter;
adding the spice, with a glass of white wine, and a glass of brandy.
Having beaten eight eggs as light as possible, stir them into the
butter and sugar, a little at a time in turn with the meal. Give the
whole a hard stirring at the last; put it into a well-buttered tin pan,
and bake it about an hour and a half.

This cake (like every thing else in which Indian meal is an ingredient)
should be eaten quite fresh; it is then very nice. When stale, (even a
day old,) it becomes dry and rough as if made with saw-dust.

QUEEN CAKE.

Sift fourteen ounces of the finest flour, being two ounces less than a
pound. Cakes baked in little tins, should have a smaller proportion of
flour than those that are done in large loaves. Prepare a
table-spoonful of beaten cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of mace, and two
beaten nutmegs; and mix them all together when powdered. Mix in a
tumbler, half a glass of white wine, half a glass of brandy, and half a
glass of rose water. Powder a pound of loaf-sugar, and sift it into a
deep pan; cut up in it a pound of fresh butter; warm them by the fire,
and stir them to a cream. Add gradually the spice and the liquor. Beat
ten eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture in turn with the
flour. Stir in twelve drops of essence of lemon, and beat the whole
very hard. Butter some little tins; half fill them with the mixture;
set them into a brisk oven, and cake them about a quarter of an hour.
When done, they will shrink from the sides of the tins. After you turn
them out, spread them on an inverted sieve to cool. If you have
occasion to fill your tins a second time, scrape and wipe them well
before they are used again.

Make an icing flavoured with oil of lemon, or with extract of roses;
and spread two coats of it on the queen cakes. Set them to dry in a
warm place, but not near enough the fire to discolour the icing and
cause it to crack.

Queen cakes are best the day they are baked.

FRUIT QUEEN CAKES.

Make them in the above manner, with the addition of a pound of
currants, (picked, washed, dried, and floured,) and the juice and
grated peel of two large lemons, stirred in gradually at the last.
Instead of currants, you may put in sultana or seedless raisins, cut in
half and floured.

You may make a fruit pound cake in this manner.

LADY CAKE.

Take a quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds, or peach-kernels.
Put them into a bowl of boiling water, (renewing the water as it cools)
and let them lie in it till the skin peels off easily; then throw them,
as they, are blanched, into a bowl of cold water, which will much
improve their whiteness. Pound them, one at a time, in a mortar;
pouring in frequently a few drops of rose water to prevent them from
oiling and being heavy. Cut up three quarters of a pound of fresh
butter into a whole pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Having warmed it,
stir it to a light cream, and then add very gradually the pounded
almonds, beating them in very hard. Sift into a separate pan half a
pound and two ounces of flour, and beat in another pan to a stiff
froth, the, whites only of seventeen eggs. Stir the flour and the white
of egg alternately into the pan of butter, sugar and almonds, a very
little at a time of each. Having beaten the whole as hard as possible,
put it into a buttered tin pan, (a square one is best,) and set it
immediately into a moderate oven. Bake it about an hour, more or less,
according to its thickness. When cool, ice it, flavouring the icing,
with oil of lemon. It is best the day after it is baked, but it may be
eaten fresh. When you put it away wrap it in a thick cloth.

If you bake it in little tins, use two ounces less of flour.

SPANISH BUNS.

Cut up three quarters of a pound of butter into a jill and a half or
three wine glasses of rich unskimmed milk, (cream will be still
better,) and get the pan on a stove or near the fire, till the butter
becomes soft enough to stir all through the milk with a knife; but do
not let it get so hot as to boil of itself. Then set it away in a cold
place. Sift into separate pans, a half pound and a quarter of a pound
of the finest flour; and having beaten four eggs as light as possible,
mix them with the milk and butter, and then pour the whole into the pan
that contains the half pound of flour. Having previously prepared two
grated nutmegs, and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon and mace,
stir them into the mixture; adding six drops of extract of roses, or a
large table-spoonful of rose water. Add a wine glass and a half of the
best fresh yeast from a brewery. If you cannot procure yeast of the
very best quality, an attempt to make these buns will most probably
prove a failure, as the variety of other ingredients will prevent them
from rising unless the yeast is as strong as possible. Before you put
it in, skim off the thin liquid or beer from the top, and then stir up
the bottom. After you have put in the yeast, add the sugar; stirring it
well in, a very little at a time. If too much sugar is put in at once,
the buns will be heavy. Lastly, sprinkle in the quarter of a pound of
flour that was sifted separately; and stir the whole very hard. Put the
mixture into a square pan well buttered, and (having covered it with a
cloth) place it in a corner of the hearth to rise, which will require,
perhaps, about five hours; therefore these buns should always be made
early in the day. Do not bake it till the batter has risen to twice its
original quantity, and is covered on the top with bubbles; then set the
pan into a moderate oven, and bake it about twenty minutes. Let it get
cool in the pan; then, cut it into squares, and either ice them,
(flavouring the icing with essence of lemon or extract of roses,) or
sift grated loaf-sugar thickly over them. These buns (like all other
cakes made with yeast) should be eaten the day they are baked; as when
stale, they fall and become hard.

In mixing them, you may stir in at the last half a pound of raisins,
stoned, chopped and floured; or half a pound of currants. If you use
fruit, put in half a wine glass more of the yeast.

BATH BUNS.

Boil a little saffron in sufficient water to cover it, till the liquid
is of a bright yellow; then strain it, and set it to cool. Rub half a
pound of fresh butter into a pound of sifted flour, and make it into a
paste with four eggs that have been well beaten, and a large wine glass
of the best and strongest yeast; adding the infusion of saffron to
colour it yellow. Put the dough into a pan, cover it with a cloth, and
set it before the fire to rise. When it is quite light, mix into it a
quarter of a pound of powdered and sifted loaf-sugar; a grated nutmeg;
and, if you choose, two or three spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Roll out
the dough into a thick sheet, and divide it into round cakes with a
cutter. Strew the top of each bun with carraway comfits, and bake them
on flat tins buttered well. They should be eaten the day they are
baked, as they are not good unless quite fresh.

JELLY CAKE.

Sift three quarters of a pound of flour. Stir to a cream a pound of
butter and a pound of powdered white sugar, and mix in half a tea-cup
of rose water, and a grated nutmeg, with a tea-spoonful of powdered
cinnamon. Beat ten eggs very light, and add them gradually to the
mixture, alternately with the flour; stirring the whole very hard. Put
your griddle into the oven of a stove; and when it is quite hot, grease
it with fresh butter tied in a clean rag, and set on it a tin
cake-ring, (about the size of a large dinner plate,) greased also. Dip
out two large table-spoonfuls and a half of the cake batter; put it
within the tin ring, and bake it about five minutes (or a little
longer) without turning it. When it is done, take it carefully off;
place it on a large dish to cool; wipe the griddle, grease it afresh,
and put on another cake. Proceed thus till all the batter is baked.
When the cakes are cool, spread every one thickly over with grape
jelly, peach marmalade, or any other sweetmeat that is smooth and
thick; currant jelly will be found too thin, and is liable to run off.
Lay the cakes smoothly one on another, (each having a layer of jelly or
marmalade between,) and either grate loaf-sugar over the top one, or
ice it smoothly; marking the icing with cross lines of coloured
sugar-sand, all the lines meeting at the centre so as to divide the
cake, when cut, into triangular or wedge-shaped slices. If you ice it,
add a few drops of essence of lemon to the icing.

Jelly cake should be eaten fresh. It is best the day it is baked.

You may bake small jelly cakes in muffin rings.

SPONGE CAKE.

Sift three quarters of a pound of flour, [Footnote: Sponge cake may be
made with rice flour.] and powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar. Grate
the yellow rind and squeeze into a saucer the juice of three lemons.
Beat twelve eggs; and when they are as light as possible, beat into
them gradually and very hard the sugar, adding the lemon, and beating
the whole for a long time. Then by degrees, stir in the flour slowly
and lightly; for if the flour is stirred hard and fast into sponge
cake, it will make it porous and tough. Have ready buttered, a
sufficient number of little square tins, (the thinner they are the
better,) half fill them with the mixture; grate loaf-sugar over the top
of each; put them immediately into a quick oven, and bake them about
ten minutes; taking out one to try when you think they are done. Spread
them on an inverted sieve to cool. When baked in small square cakes,
they are generally called Naples biscuits.

If you are willing to take the trouble, they will bake much nicer in
little square paper cases, which you must make of a thick letter paper,
turning up the sides all round, and pasting together or sewing up the
corners.

If you bake the mixture in one large cake, (which is not advisable
unless you have had much practice in baking,) put it into a buttered
tin pan or mould, and set it directly into a hot Dutch oven, as it will
fall and become heavy if allowed to stand. Keep plenty of live coals on
the top, and under the bottom till the cake has risen very high, and is
of a fine colour; then diminish the fire, and keep it moderate till the
cake is done. It will take about an hour. When cool, ice it; adding a
little essence of lemon or extract of roses to the icing. Sponge cake
is best the day it is baked.

Diet Bread is another name for Sponge Cake.

ALMOND CAKE.

Blanch, and pound in a mortar, four ounces of shelled sweet almonds and
two ounces of shelled bitter ones; adding, as you proceed, sufficient
rose-water to make them light and white. Sift half a pound of flour,
and powder a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat thirteen eggs; and when they are
as light as possible, stir into them alternately the almonds, sugar,
and flour; adding a grated nutmeg. Butter a large square pan; put in
the mixture, and bake it in a brisk oven about half an hour, less or
more, according to its thickness. When cool, ice it. It is best when
eaten fresh.

COCOA-NUT CAKE.

Cut up and wash a cocoa-nut, and grate as much of it as will weigh a
pound. Powder a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat fifteen eggs very light; and
then beat into them, gradually, the sugar. Then add by degrees the
cocoa-nut; and lastly, a handful of sifted flour. Stir the whole very
hard, and bake it either in a large tin pan, or in little tins. The
oven should be rather quick.

WASHINGTON CAKE.

Stir together a pound of butter and a pound of sugar; and sift into
another pan a pound of flour. Beat six eggs very light, and stir them
into the butter and sugar, alternately with the flour and a pint of
rich milk or cream; if the milk is sour it will be no disadvantage. Add
a glass of wine, a glass of brandy, a powdered nutmeg, and a
table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Lastly, stir in a small
tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or salaeratus, that has been melted in a
little vinegar; take care not to put in too much pearl-ash, lest it
give the cake an unpleasant taste. Stir the whole very hard; put it
into a buttered tin pan, (or into little tins,) and bake it in a brisk
oven. Wrapped in a thick cloth, this cake will keep soft for a week.

CIDER CAKE.

Pick, wash, and dry a pound of currants, and sprinkle them well with
flour; and prepare two nutmegs, and a large table-spoonful of powdered
cinnamon. Sift half a pound and two ounces of flour. Stir together till
very light. six ounces of fresh butter, and half a pound of powdered
white sugar; and add gradually the spice, with two wine glasses of
brandy, (or one of brandy and one of white wine.) Beat four eggs very
light, and stir them into the mixture alternately with the flour. Add
by degrees half a pint of brisk cider; and then stir in the currants, a
few at a time. Lastly, a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or sal-aratus
dissolved in a little warm water. Having stirred the whole very hard,
put it into a buttered tin pan, and let it stand before the fire half
an hour previous to baking. Bake it in a brisk oven an hour or more
according to its thickness. Or you may bake it as little cakes, putting
it into small tins; in which case use but half a pound of flour in
raising the batter.

ELECTION CAKE.

Make a sponge (as it is called) in the following manner:—Sift into a
pan two pounds and a half of flour; and into a deep plate another
pound. Take a second pan, and stir a large table-spoonful of the best
West India molasses into five jills or two tumblers and a half of
strong fresh yeast; adding a Jill of water, warm, but not hot. Then
stir gradually into the yeast, &c. the pound of flour that you have
sifted separately. Cover it, and let it set by the fire three hours to
rise. While it is rising, prepare the other ingredients, by stirring in
a deep pan two pounds of fresh butter and two pounds of powdered sugar,
till they are quite light and creamy; adding to them a table-spoonful
of powdered cinnamon; a tea-spoonful of powdered mace; and two powdered
nutmegs. Stir in also half a pint of rich milk. Beat fourteen eggs till
very smooth and thick, and stir them gradually into the mixture,
alternately with the two pounds and a half of flour which you sifted
first. When the sponge is quite light, mix the whole together, and bake
it in buttered tin pans in a moderate oven. It should be eaten fresh,
as no sweet cake made with yeast is so good after the first day. If it
is not probable that the whole will come into use on the day it is
baked, mix but half the above quantity.

MORAVIAN SUGAR CAKE.

Cut up a quarter of a pound of butter into a pint of rich milk, and
warm it till the butter becomes soft; then stir it about in the milk so
as to mix them well. Sift three quarters of a pound of flour (or a pint
and a half) into a deep pan, and making a hole in the middle of it,
stir in a large table-spoonful of the best brewer’s yeast in which a
salt-spoonful of salt has been dissolved; and then thin it with the
milk and butter. Cover it, and set it near the fire to rise. If the
yeast is sufficiently strong, it will most probably be light in two
hours. When it is quite light, mix with the dough a well-beaten egg and
three quarters of a pound more of sifted flour; adding a table-spoonful
of powdered cinnamon, and stirring it very hard. Butter a deep square
baking pan, and put the mixture into it. Set it to rise again, as
before. Mix together five ounces or a large coffee-cup of fine brown
sugar; two ounces of butter; and two table-spoonfuls of powdered
cinnamon. When the dough is thoroughly light, make deep incisions all
over it, at equal distances, and fill them with the mixture of butter,
sugar and cinnamon; pressing it hard down into the bottom of the holes,
and closing the dough a little at the top to prevent the seasoning from
running out. Strew some sugar over the top of the cake; set it
immediately into the oven, and bake it from twenty minutes to half an
hour, or more, in a brisk oven, in proportion to its thickness. When
cool, cut it into squares. This is a very good plain cake; but do not
attempt it unless you have excellent yeast.

HUCKLEBERRY CAKE.

Spread a quart of ripe huckleberries on a large dish, and dredge them
thickly with flour. Mix together half a pint of milk; half a pint of
molasses; half a pint of powdered sugar; and half a pound of butter.
Warm them by the fire till the butter is quite soft; then stir them all
together, and set them away till cold. Prepare a large table-spoonful
of powdered cloves and cinnamon mixed. Beat five eggs very light, and
stir them gradually into the other ingredients; adding, by degrees,
sufficient gifted flour to make a thick batter. Then stir in a small
tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or dissolved sal-aratus. Lastly, add by
degrees the huckleberries. Put the mixture into a buttered pan, or into
little tins and bake it in a moderate oven. It is best the second day.

BREAD CAKE.

When you are making wheat bread, and the dough is quite light and ready
to bake, take out as much of it as would make a twelve cent loaf, and
mix with it a tea cup full of powdered sugar, and a tea-cup full of
butter that has been softened and stirred about in a tea-cup of warm
milk. Add also a beaten egg. Knead it very well, put it into a square
pan, dredged with flour, cover it, and set it near the fire for half an
hour. Then bake it in a moderate oven, and wrap it in a thick cloth as
soon as it is done. It is best when fresh.

FEDERAL CAKES.

Sift two pounds of flour into a deep pan, and cut up in it a pound of
fresh butter; rub the butter into the flour with your hands, adding by
degrees, half a pound of powdered white sugar; a tea-spoonful of
powdered cinnamon; a beaten nutmeg; a glass of wine or brandy, and two
glasses of rose water. Beat four eggs very light; and add them to the
mixture with a salt-spoonful of pearl-ash melted in a little lukewarm
water. Mix all well together; add, if necessary, sufficient cold water
to make it into a dough just stiff enough to roll out; knead it
slightly, and then roll it out into a sheet about half an inch thick.
Cut it out into small cakes with a tin cutter, or with the edge of a
tumbler; dipping the cutter frequently into flour, to prevent its
sticking. Lay the cakes in shallow pans buttered, or on flat sheets of
tin, (taking care not to let them touch, lest they should run into each
other,) and bake them of a light brown in a brisk oven. They are best
the second day.

SAVOY BISCUITS.

Take four eggs, and separate the whites from the yolks. Beat the whites
by themselves, to a stiff froth; then add gradually the yolks, and beat
them both together for a long time. Next add by degrees half a pound of
the finest loaf-sugar, powdered and sifted, beating it in very hard;
and eight drops of strong essence of lemon. Lastly, stir in a quarter
of a pound of sifted flour, a little at a time. Stir the whole very
hard, and then with a spoon lay it on sheets of white paper, forming it
into thin cakes of an oblong or oval shape. Take care not to place them
too close to each other, lest they run. Grate loaf-sugar over the top
of each, to assist in keeping them in shape. Have the oven quite ready
to put them in immediately. It should be rather brisk. They will bake
in a few minutes, and should be but slightly coloured.

ALMOND MACCAROONS.

Take a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound of
shelled bitter almonds. Blanch them in scalding water, mix them
together, and pound them, one or two at a time, in a mortar to a very
smooth paste; adding frequently a little rose water to prevent them
from oiling and becoming heavy. Prepare a pound of powdered loaf-sugar.
Beat the whites of seven eggs, to a stiff froth, and then beat into it
gradually the powdered sugar, adding a table-spoonful of mixed spice,
(nutmeg, mace, and. cinnamon.) Then mix in the pounded almonds, (which
it is best to prepare the day before,) and stir the whole very hard.
Form the mixture with a spoon into little round or oval cakes, upon
sheets of buttered white paper, and grate white sugar over each. Lay
the paper in square shallow pans, or on iron sheets, and bake the
maccaroons a few minutes in a brisk oven, till of a pale brown. When
cold, take them off the papers.

It will be well to try two or three first, and if you find them likely
to lose their shape and run info each other, you may omit the papers
and make the mixture up into little balls with your hands well floured;
baking them in shallow tin pans slightly buttered.

You may make maccaroons with icing that is left from a cake.

COCOA-NUT MACCAROONS.

Beat to a stiff froth the whites of six eggs, and then beat into it
very hard a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Mix with it a pound of grated
cocoa-nut, or sufficient to make a stiff paste. Then flour your hands,
and make it up into little balls. Lay them on sheets of buttered white
paper, and bake them in a brisk oven; first grating loaf-sugar over
each. They will be done in a few minutes. Maccaroons may be made in a
similar manner of pounded cream-nuts, ground-nuts, filberts, or English
walnuts.

WHITE COCOA-NUT CAKES.

Break up a cocoa-nut; peel and wash the pieces in cold water, and grate
them. Mix in the milk of the nut and some powdered loaf-sugar and then
form the grated cocoa-nut into little balls upon sheets of white paper.
Make them all of a regular and handsome form, and touch the top of each
with a spot of red sugar-sand. Do not bake them, but place them to dry
for twenty-four hours, in a warm room where nothing is likely to
disturb the them.

COCOA-NUT JUMBLES.

Grate a large cocoa-nut. Rub half a pound of butter into a pound of
sifted flour, and wet it with, three beaten eggs, and a little rose
water. Add by degrees the cocoa-nut, so as to form a stiff dough. Flour
your hands and your paste-hoard, and dividing the dough into equal
portions, make the jumbles with your hands into long rolls, and then
curl them round and join the ends so as to form rings. Grate loaf-sugar
over them, lay them in buttered pans, (not so near as to run into each
other,) and bake them in a quick oven from five to ten minutes.

COMMON JUMBLES.

Sift a pound of flour into a large pan. Cut up a pound of butter into a
pound of powdered white sugar, and stir them to a cream. Beat six eggs
till very light, and then pour them all at once into the pan of flour;
next add the butter and sugar, with a large table-spoonful of mixed
mace and cinnamon, two grated nutmegs, and a tea-spoonful of essence of
lemon or a wine glass of rose water. When all the ingredients are in,
stir the mixture very hard with a broad knife. Having floured your
hands and spread some flour on the paste-board, make the dough into
long rolls, (all of equal size,) and form them into rings by joining
the two ends very nicely. Lay them on buttered tins, and bake them in a
quick oven from five to ten minutes. Grate sugar over them when cool.

APEES.

Rub a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of sifted flour, and mix in
a pound of powdered white sugar, a grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of
powdered cinnamon, and four large table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds.
Add a wine glass of rose water, and mix the whole with sufficient cold
water to make it a stiff dough. Roll it out into a large sheet about a
third of an inch in thickness, and cut it into round cakes with a tin
cutter or with the edge of a tumbler. Lay them in buttered pans, and
bake them in a quick oven, (rather hotter at the bottom than at the
top,) till they are of a very pale brown.

WHITE CUP CAKE.

Measure one large coffee cup of cream or rich milk, (which, for this
cake, is best when sour,) one cup of fresh butter; two cups of powdered
white sugar; and four cups of sifted flour. Stir the butter and sugar
together till quite light; then by degrees add the cream, alternately
with half the flour. Beat five eggs as light as possible, and stir them
into the mixture, alternately with the remainder of the flour. Add a
grated nutmeg and a large tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, with eight
drops of oil of lemon. Lastly, stir in a very small tea-spoonful of
sal-aratus or pearl-ash, melted in a little vinegar or lukewarm water.
Having stirred the whole very hard, put it into little tins; set them
in a moderate oven, and bake them about twenty minutes.

KISSES.

Powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar. Beat to a strong froth the
whites of eight eggs, and when it is stiff enough to stand alone, beat
into it the powdered sugar, (a tea spoonful at a time,) adding the
juice of two lemons, or ten drops of essence of lemon. Having beaten
the whole very hard, drop it in oval or egg-shaped heaps upon sheets of
white paper, smoothing them with the spoon and making them of a
handsome and regular form. Place them in a moderate oven, (if it is too
cool they will not rise, but will flatten and run into each other,) and
bake them till coloured of a very pale brown. Then take them off the
papers very carefully, place two bottoms (or flat sides) together, so
as to unite them in an oval ball, and lay them on their sides to cool.
To manage them properly, requires so much practice and dexterity, that
it is best, when practicable, to procure kisses from a confectioner’s
shop.

MARMALADE CAKE.

Make a batter as for queen-cake, and bake it in small tin rings on a
griddle. Beat white of egg, and powdered loaf-sugar according to the
preceding receipt, flavouring it with lemon. When the batter is baked
into cakes, and they are quite cool, spread over each a thick layer of
marmalade, and then heap on with a spoon tire icing or white of egg and
sugar. Pile it high, and set the cakes in a moderate oven till the
icing is coloured of a very pale brown.

Instead of small ones you may bake the whole in one large cake.


SECRETS.

Take glazed paper of different colours, and cut it into squares of
equal size, fringing two sides of each. Have ready, burnt almonds,
chocolate nuts, and bonbons or sugar-plums of various sorts; and put
one in each paper with a folded slip containing two lines of verse; or
what will be much more amusing, a conundrum with the answer. Twist the
coloured paper so as entirely to conceal their contents, leaving the
fringe at each end. This is the most easy, but there are various ways
of cutting and ornamenting these envelopes.

SCOTCH CAKE.

Rub three quarters of a pound of butter into a pound of sifted flour;
mix in a pound of powdered sugar, and a large table-spoonful of
powdered cinnamon. Mix it into a dough with three well beaten eggs.
Roll it out into a sheet; cut it into round cakes, and bake them in a
quick oven; they will require but a few minutes.

SCOTCH QUEEN CAKE.

Melt a pound of butter by putting it into a skillet on hot coals. Then
set it away to cool. Sift a quarter of a peck of flour into a deep pan,
and mix with it a pound of powdered sugar and a table-spoonful of
powdered cinnamon and mace. Make a hole in the middle, put in the
melted butter, and mix it with a knife till you have formed of the
whole a lump of dough. If it is too stiff, moisten it with a little
rose water. Do not knead it; but roll it out into a large oval sheet,
an inch thick. Cut it down the middle, and then across, so as to divide
it into four cakes. Prick them with a fork, and crimp or scollop the
edges neatly. Lay them in shallow pans; set them, in a quick oven and
bake them of a light brown. This cake will keep a week or two.

You may mix in with the dough half a pound of currants, picked, washed,
and dried.

HONEY CAKES.

Take a quart of strained honey, half a pound of fresh butter, and a
small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a wine glass of water. Add
by degrees as much sifted flour as will make a stiff paste. Work the
whole well together. Roll it out about half an inch thick. Cut it into
cakes with the edge of a tumbler or with a tin-cake cutter. Lay them on
buttered tins and bake them with rather a brisk fire, but see that they
do not burn.

WAFER CAKES.

Mix together half a pound of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pound
of butter; and add to them six beaten eggs. Then beat the whole very
light; stirring into it as much sifted flour as will make a stiff
batter; a powdered nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of cinnamon; and eight
drops of oil of lemon, or a table-spoonful of rose water. The batter
must be very smooth when it is done, and without a single lump. Heat
your wafer iron on both sides by turning it in the fire; but do not
allow it to get too hot. Grease the inside with butter tied in a rag,
(this must be repeated previous to the baking of every cake,) and put
in the batter, allowing to each wafer two large table-spoonfuls, taking
care not to stir up the batter. Close the iron, and when one side is
baked, turn it on the other; open it occasionally to see if the wafer
is doing well. They should be coloured of a light brown. Take them out
carefully with a knife. Strew them with powdered sugar, and roll them
up while warm, round a smooth stick, withdrawing it when they grow
cold. They are best the day after they are baked.

If you are preparing for company, fill up the hollow of the wafers with
whipt cream, and stop up the two ends with preserved strawberries, or
with any other small sweetmeat.

WONDERS, OR CRULLERS.

Rub half a pound of butter into two pounds of sifted flour, mixing in
three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar. Add a tea-spoonful of
powdered cinnamon, and a grated nutmeg, with a large table-spoonful of
rose water. Beat six eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture.
Mix it with a knife into a soft paste. Then put it on the paste-board,
and roll it out into a sheet an inch thick. If you find it too soft,
knead in a little more flour, and roll it out over again. Cut it into
long slips with a jagging iron, or with a sharp knife, and twist them
into various fantastic shapes. Have ready on hot coals, a skillet of
boiling lard; put in the crullers and fry them of a light brown,
turning them occasionally by means of a knife and fork. Take them out
one by one on a perforated skimmer, that the lard may drain off through
the holes. Spread them out on a large dish, and when cold grate white
sugar over them.

They will keep a week or more.

DOUGH NUTS.

Take two deep dishes, and sift three quarters of a pound of flour into
each. Make a hole in the centre of one of them, and pour in a wine
glass of the best brewer’s yeast; mix the flour gradually into it,
wetting it with lukewarm milk; cover it, and set it by the fire to rise
for about two hours. This is setting a sponge. In the mean time, cut up
five ounces of butter into the other dish of flour, and rub it fine
with your hands; add half a pound of powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful of
powdered cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of rose water, and
a half pint of milk. Beat three eggs very light, and stir them hard
into the mixture. Then when, the sponge is perfectly light, add it to
the other ingredients, mixing them all thoroughly with a knife. Cover
it, and set it again by the fire for another hour. When, it is quite
light, flour your paste-board, turn out the lump of dough, and cut it
into thick diamond shaped cakes with a jagging iron. If you find the
dough so soft as to be unmanageable, mix in a little more flour; but
not else. Have ready a skillet of boiling lard; put the dough-nuts into
it, and fry them brown; and when cool grate loaf-sugar over them. They
should be eaten quite fresh, as next day they will be tough and heavy;
therefore it is best to make no more than you want for immediate use.
The New York Oley Koeks are dough-nuts with currants and raisins in
them.

WAFFLES.

Put two pints of rich milk into separate pans. Cut up and melt in one
of them a quarter of a pound of butter, warming it slightly; then, when
it is melted, stir it about, and set it away to cool. Beat eight eggs
till very light, and mix them gradually into the other pan of milk,
alternately with half a pound of flour. Then mix in by degrees the milk
that has the butter in it. Lastly, stir in a large table-spoonful of
strong fresh yeast. Cover the pan, and set it near the fire to rise.
When the batter is quite light, heat your waffle-iron, by putting it
among the coals of a clear bright fire; grease the inside with butter
tied in a rag, and then put in some batter. Shut the iron closely, and
when the waffle is done on one side, turn the iron on the other. Take
the cake out by slipping a knife underneath; and then heat and grease
the iron for another waffle. Send them to table quite hot, four or six
on a plate; having buttered them and strewed over each a mixture of
powdered cinnamon, and white sugar. Or you may send the sugar and
cinnamon in a little glass bowl.

In buying waffle-irons, do not choose those broad shallow ones that are
to hold four at a time; as the waffles baked in them are too small, too
thin, and are never of a good shape. The common sort that bake but two
at once are much the best.

NEW YORK COOKIES.

Take a half-pint or a tumbler full of cold water, and mix it with half
a pound of powdered white sugar. Sift three pounds of flour into a
large pan and cut up in it a pound of butter; rub the butter very fine
into the flour. Add a grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered
cinnamon, with a wine glass of rose water. Work in the sugar, and make
the whole into a stiff dough, adding, if necessary, a little cold
water. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of pearl-ash in just enough of warm
water to cover it, and mix it in at the last. Take the lump of dough
out of the pan, and knead it on the paste-board till it becomes quite
light. Then roll it out rather more than half an inch thick, and cut it
into square cakes with a jagging iron or with a sharp knife. Stamp the
surface of each with a cake print. Lay them in buttered pans, and bake
them of a light brown in a brisk oven.

They are similar to what are called New Year’s cakes, and will keep two
or three weeks.

In mixing the dough, you may add three table-spoonfuls of carraway
seeds.

SUGAR BISCUIT.

Wet a pound of sugar with two large tea-cups full of milk; and rub a
pound of butter into two pounds of flour; adding a table-spoonful of
cinnamon, and a handful of carraway seeds. Mix in the sugar, add a
tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved, and make the whole into a stiff
dough. Knead it, and then roll it out into a sheet about half an inch
thick. Beat it on both sides with the rolling-pin, and then cut it out
with the edge of a tumbler into round cakes. Prick them with a fork,
lay them in buttered pans, and bake them light brown in a quick oven.
You may colour them yellow by mixing in with the other ingredients a
little of the infusion of saffron.

RUSKS.

Sift three pounds of flour into a large pan, and rub into it half a
pound of butter, and half a pound of sugar. Beat two eggs very light,
and stir them into a pint and a half of milk, adding two
table-spoonfuls of rose water, and three table-spoonfuls of the best
and strongest yeast. Make a hole in the middle of the flour, pour in
the liquid, and gradually mix the flour into it till you have a thick
batter. Cover it, and set it by the fire to rise. When it is quite
light, put it on your paste-board and knead it well. Then divide it
into small round cakes and knead each separately. Lay them very near
each other in shallow iron pans that have been sprinkled with flour.
Prick the top of each rusk with a fork, and set them by the fire to
rise again for half an hour or more. When they are perfectly light,
bake them in a moderate oven. They are best when fresh.

You can convert them into what are called Hard Rusks, or Tops and
Bottoms, by splitting them in half, and putting them again into the
oven to harden and crisp.

MILK BISCUIT.

Cut up three quarters of a pound of butter in a quart of milk, and set
it near the fire to warm, till the butter becomes soft; then with a
knife, mix it thoroughly with the milk, and set it away to cool.
Afterwards stir in two wine glasses of strong fresh yeast, and add by
degrees as much sifted flour as will make a dough just stiff enough to
roll out. As soon as it is mixed, roll it into a thick sheet, and cut
it out into round cakes with the edge of a tumbler or a wine glass.
Sprinkle a large iron pan with flour; lay the biscuits in it, cover it
and set it to rise near the fire. When the biscuits are quite light,
knead each one separately; prick them with a fork, and set them again
in a warm place for about half an hour. When they are light again, bake
them in a moderate oven. They should be eaten fresh, and pulled open
with the fingers, as splitting them with a knife will make them heavy.

WHITE GINGERBREAD.

Sift two pounds of flour into a deep pan, and rub into it three
quarters of a pound of butter; then mix in a pound of common white
sugar powdered; and three table-spoonfuls of the best white ginger.
Having beaten four eggs very light, mix them gradually with the other
ingredients in the pan, and add a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash
melted in a wine glass of warm milk. Stir the whole as hard as
possible. Flour your paste-board; lay the lump of dough upon it, and
roll it out into a sheet an inch thick; adding more flour if necessary.
Butter a large shallow square pan. Lay the dough into it, and bake it
in a moderate oven. When cold, cut it into squares. Or you may cut it
out into separate cakes with a jagging iron, previous to baking. You
must be careful not to lay them too close together in the pan, lest
they run into each other.

COMMON GINGERBREAD.

Cut up a pound of butter in a quart of West India molasses, which must
be perfectly sweet; if it is in the least sour, use sugar house
molasses instead. Warm it slightly, just enough to melt the butter.
Crush with the rolling-pin, on the paste-board, half a pound of brown
sugar, and add it by degrees to the molasses and butter; then stir in a
tea-cup full of powdered ginger, a large tea-spoonful of powdered
cloves, and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Add gradually
sufficient flour to make a dough stiff enough to roll out easily; and
lastly, a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash melted in a little warm
water. Mix and stir the dough very hard with a spaddle, or a wooden
spoon; but do not knead it. Then divide it with a knife into equal
portions; and, having floured your hands, roll it out on the
paste-board into long even strips. Place them in shallow tin pans, that
have been buttered; either laying the strips side by side in straight
round sticks, (uniting them at both ends,) or coil them into rings one
within another, as you see them at the cake shops. Bake them in a brisk
oven, taking care that they do not burn; gingerbread scorching sooner
than any other cake.

To save time and trouble, you may roll out the dough into a sheet near
an inch thick, and cut it into round flat cakes with a tin cutter, or
with the edge of a tumbler.

Ground ginger loses much of its strength by keeping. Therefore it will
be frequently found necessary to put in more than the quantity given in
the receipt.

GINGERBREAD NUTS.

Rub half a pound of butter into a pound and a half of sifted flour; and
mix in half a pound of brown sugar, crushed fine with the rolling-pin.
Add two large table-spoonfuls of ginger, a tea-spoonful of powdered
cloves, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Stir in a pint of
molasses, and the grated peel of a large lemon, but not the juice, as
you must add at the last, a very small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash
dissolved in a little lukewarm water, and pearl-ash entirely destroys
the taste of lemon-juice and of every other acid. Stir the whole
mixture very hard with a spaddle or with a wooden spoon, and make it
into a lump of dough just stiff enough to roll out into a sheet about
half an inch thick. Cut it out into small cakes about the size of a
quarter dollar; or make it up, with your hands well floured, into
little round balls, flattening them on the top. Lay them in buttered
pans, and bake them in a moderate oven. They will keep several weeks.

FRANKLIN CAKE.

Mix together a pint of molasses, and half a pint of milk, and cut up in
it half a pound of butter. Warm them just enough to melt the butter,
and then stir in six ounces of brown sugar; adding three
table-spoonfuls of ginger, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a
tea-spoonful of powdered cloves, and a grated nutmeg. Beat seven eggs
very light, and stir them gradually into the mixture, in turn with a
pound and two ounces of flour. Add, at the last, the grated peel and
juice of two large lemons or oranges; or twelve drops of essence of
lemon, there being no pearl-ash in this gingerbread. Stir the mixture
very hard; put it into little queen cake tins, well buttered; and bake
it in a moderate oven. It is best the second day, and will keep soft a
week.

GINGER PLUM CAKE.

Stone a pound and a half of raisins, and cut them in two. Wash and dry
half a pound of currants. Sift into a pan two pounds of flour. Put into
another pan a pound of brown sugar, (rolled fine,) and cut up in it a
pound of fresh butter. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream, and add to
it two table-spoonfuls of the best ginger; one table-spoonful of
powdered cinnamon; and one of powdered cloves. Then beat six eggs very
light, and add them gradually to the butter and sugar, in turn with the
flour and a quart of molasses. Lastly, stir in a tea-spoonful of
pearl-ash dissolved in a little vinegar, and add by degrees the fruit,
which must be well dredged with flour. Stir all very hard; put the
mixture into a buttered pan, and bake it in a moderate oven. Take care
not to let it burn.

MOLASSES CANDY.

Mix a pound of the best brown sugar with two quarts of West India
molasses, (which must be perfectly sweet,) and boil it in a preserving
kettle over a moderate fire for three hours, skimming it well, and
stirring it frequently after the scum has ceased to rise; taking care
that it does not burn. Have ready the grated rind and the juice of
three lemons, and stir them into the molasses after it has boiled about
two hours and a half; or you may substitute a large tea-spoonful of
strong essence of lemon. The flavour of the lemon will all be boiled
out if it is put in too soon. The mixture should boil at least three
hours, that it may be crisp and brittle when cold. If it is taken off
the fire too soon, or before it has boiled sufficiently, it will not
congeal, but will be tough and ropy, and must be boiled over again. It
will cease boiling of itself when it is thoroughly done. Then take it
off the fire; have ready a square tin pan; put the mixture into it, and
set it away to cool.

You may make molasses candy with almonds blanched and slit into pieces;
stir them in by degrees after the mixture has boiled two hours and a
half. Or you may blanch a quart of ground-nuts and put them in instead
of the almonds.

NOUGAT.

Blanch a pound of shelled sweet almonds; and with an almond cutter, or
a sharp penknife, split each almond into five slips. Spread them over a
large dish, and place them in a gentle oven. Powder a pound of the
finest loaf-sugar, and put it into a preserving pan without a drop of
water. Set it on a chafing-dish over a slow fire, or on a hot stove,
and stir it with a wooden spoon till the boat has entirely dissolved
it. Then take the almonds out of the oven, and mix with them the juice
of two or three lemons. Put them into the sugar a few at a time, and
let them simmer till it becomes a thick stiff paste, stirring it hard
all the while. Have ready a mould, or a square tin pan, greased all
over the inside with sweet oil; put the mixture into it; smooth it
evenly, and set it in a cold place to harden.

LEMON DROPS.

Squeeze some lemon-juice into a pan. Pound in a mortar some of the best
loaf-sugar, and then sift it through a very fine sieve. Mix it with the
lemon-juice, making it so thick that you can scarcely stir it. Put it
into a porcelain sauce-pan, set it on hot coals, and stir it with a
wooden spoon five minutes or more. Then take off the pan, and with the
point of a knife drop the liquid on writing paper. When cold, the drops
will easily come off.

Peppermint drops may be made as above, substituting for the lemon-juice
essence of peppermint.



WARM CAKES FOR BREAKFAST AND TEA.


BUCKWHEAT CAKES.

Take a quart of buckwheat meal, mix with it a tea-spoonful of salt, and
add a handful of Indian meal. Pour a large table-spoonful of the best
brewer’s yeast into the centre of the meal. Then mix it gradually with
cold water till it becomes a batter. Cover it, put it in a warm place
and set it to rise; it will take about three hours. When it is quite
light, and covered with bubbles, it is fit to bake. Put your griddle
over the fire, and let it get quite hot before you begin. Grease it
well with a piece of butter tied in a rag. Then dip out a large ladle
full of the batter and bake it on the griddle; turning it with a broad
wooden paddle. Let the cakes be of large size, and even at the edges.
Ragged edges to batter cakes look very badly. Butter them as you take
them off the griddle. Put several on a plate, and cut them across in
six pieces.

Grease the griddle anew, between baking each cake.

If your batter has been mixed over night and is found to be sour in the
morning, melt in warm water a piece of pearl-ash the size of a grain of
corn, or a little larger; stir it into the batter; let it set half an
hour, and then bake it. The pearl-ash will remove the sour taste, and
increase the lightness of the cakes.

FLANNEL CAKES.

Put a table-spoonful of butter into a quart of milk, and warm them
together till the butter has melted; then stir it well, and set it away
to cool. Beat five eggs as light as possible, and stir them into the
milk in turn with three pints of sifted flour; add a small tea-spoonful
of salt, and a large table-spoonful and a half of the best fresh yeast.
Set the pan of batter near the fire to rise; and if the yeast is good,
it will be light in three hours. Then bake it on a griddle in the
manner of buckwheat cakes. Send them to table hot, and cut across into
four pieces. This batter may be baked in waffle-irons. If so, send to
table with the cakes powdered white sugar and cinnamon.

INDIAN BATTER CAKES.

Mix together a quart of sifted Indian meal, (the yellow meal is best
for all purposes,) and a handful of wheat flour. Warm a quart of milk,
and stir into it a small tea-spoonful of salt, and two large
table-spoonfuls of the best fresh yeast. Beat three eggs very light,
and stir them gradually into the milk in turn with the meal. Cover it,
and set it to rise for three or four hours. When quite light, bake it
on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes. Butter them, cut them
across, and send them to table hot, with molasses in a sauce-boat.

If the batter should chance to become sour before it is baked, stir in
about a salt-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a little lukewarm
water; and let it set half an hour longer before it is baked.

INDIAN MUSH CAKES.

Pour into a pan three pints of cold water, and stir gradually into it a
quart of sifted Indian meal which has been mixed with half a pint of
wheat flour, and a small tea-spoonful of salt. Give it a hard stirring
at the last. Have ready a hot griddle, and bake the batter immediately,
in cakes about the size of a saucer. Send them to table piled evenly,
but not cut. Eat them with butter or molasses.

This is the most economical and expeditious way of making soft Indian
cakes; but it cannot be recommended as the best. It will be some
improvement to mix the meal with milk rather than water.

JOHNNY CAKE.

Sift a quart of Indian meal into a pan; make a hole in the middle, and
pour in a pint of warm water. Mix the meal and water gradually into a
batter, adding a small tea-spoonful of salt. Beat it very hard, and for
a long time, till it becomes quite light. Then spread it thick and even
on a stout piece of smooth board. Place it upright on the hearth before
a clear fire, with a flat iron or something of the sort to support the
board behind, and bake it well. Cut it into squares, and split and
butter them hot.

INDIAN FLAPPERS.

Have ready a pint of sifted Indian meal, mixed with a handful of wheat
flour, and a small tea-spoonful of salt. Beat four eggs very light, and
stir them by degrees into a quart of milk, in turn with the meal. They
can be made in a very short time, and should be baked as soon as mixed,
on a hot griddle; allow a large ladle full of batter to each cake, and
make them all of the same size. Send them to table hot, buttered and
cut in half.

INDIAN MUFFINS.

Sift and mix together a pint and a half of yellow Indian meal, and a
handful of wheat flour. Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a
quart of milk. Beat four eggs very light, and stir into them
alternately (a little at a time of each) the milk when it is quite
cold, and the meal; adding a small tea-spoonful of salt. The whole must
be beaten long and hard. Then butter some muffin rings; set them on a
hot griddle, and pour some of the batter into each.

Send the muffins to table hot, and split them by pulling them open with
your fingers, as a knife will make them heavy. Eat them with butter,
molasses or honey.

WATER MUFFINS.

Put four table-spoonfuls of fresh strong yeast into a pint of lukewarm
water. Add a little salt; about a small tea-spoonful; then stir in
gradually as much sifted flour as will make a thick batter. Cover the
pan, and set it in a warm place to rise. When it is quite light, and
your griddle is hot, grease and set your muffin rings on it; having
first buttered them round the inside. Dip out a ladle full of the
batter for each ring, and bake them over a quick fire. Send them to
table hot, and split them by pulling open with your hands.

COMMON MUFFINS.

Having melted three table-spoonfuls of fresh butter in three pints of
warm milk, set it away to cool. Then beat three eggs as light as
possible, and stir them gradually into the milk when it is quite cold;
adding a tea-spoonful of salt. Stir in by degrees enough of sifted
flour to make a batter as thick as you can conveniently beat it; and
lastly, add two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh yeast from the brewery.
Cover the batter and set it in a warm place to rise. It should be light
in about three hours. Having heated your griddle, grease it with some
butter tied in a rag; grease your muffin rings round the inside, and
set them on the griddle. Take some batter out of the pan with a ladle
or a large spoon, pour it lightly into the rings, and bake the muffins
of a light brown. When done, break or split them open with your
fingers; butter them and send them to table hot.

SODA BISCUITS.

Melt half a pound of butter in a pint of warm milk, adding a
tea-spoonful of soda; and stir in by degrees half a pound of sugar.
Then sift into a pan two pounds of flour; make a hole in the middle;
pour in the milk, &c., and mix it with the flour into a dough. Put it
on your paste-board, and knead it long and hard till it becomes very
light. Roll it out into a sheet half an inch thick. Cut it into little
round cakes with the top of a wine glass, or with a tin cutter of that
size; prick the tops; lay them on tins sprinkled with flour, or in
shallow iron pans; and bake them of a light brown in a quick oven; they
will be done in a few minutes. These biscuits keep very well.

A SALLY LUNN.

This cake is called after the inventress. Sift into a pan a pound and a
half of flour. Make a hole in the middle, and put in two ounces of
butter warmed in a pint of milk, a salt-spoonful of salt, three
well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of the best fresh yeast. Mix
the flour well into the other ingredients, and put the whole into a
square tin pan that has been greased with butter. Cover it, set it in a
warm place, and when it is quite light, bake it in a moderate oven.
Send it to table hot, and eat it with butter.

Or, you may bake it on a griddle, in small muffin rings, pulling the
cakes open and buttering them when brought to table.

SHORT CAKES.

Rub three quarters of a pound of fresh butter into a pound and a half
of sifted flour; and make it into a dough with a little cold water.
Roll it out into a sheet half an inch thick, and cut it into round
cakes with the edge of a tumbler. Prick them with a fork; lay them in a
shallow iron pan sprinkled with flour, and bake them in a moderate oven
till they are brown. Send them to table hot; split and butter them.

TEA BISCUIT.

Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a quart of warm milk, and
add a salt-spoonful of salt. Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, make
a hole in the centre, and put in three table-spoonfuls of the best
brewer’s yeast. Add the milk and butter and mix it into a stiff paste.
Cover it and set it by the fire to rise. When quite light, knead it
well, roll it out an inch thick, and cut it into round cakes with the
edge of a tumbler. Prick the top of each with a fork; lay them in
buttered pans and bake them light brown. Send them to table warm, and
split and butter them.

RICE CAKES.

Pick and wash half a pint of rice, and boil it very soft. Then drain
it, and let it get cold. Sift a pint and a half of flour over the pan
of rice, and mix in a quarter of a pound of butter that has been warmed
by the fire, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Beat five eggs very light,
and stir them gradually into a quart of milk. Beat the whole very hard,
and bake it in muffin rings, or in waffle-irons. Send them to table
hot, and eat them with butter, honey, or molasses. You may make these
cakes of rice flour instead of mixing together whole rice and wheat
flour.

CREAM CAKES.

Having beaten three eggs very light, stir them into a quart of cream
alternately with a quart of sifted flour; and add one wine glass of
strong yeast, and a salt-spoon of salt. Cover the batter, and set it
near the fire to rise. When it is quite light, stir in a large
table-spoonful of butter that has been warmed by the fire. Bake the
cakes in muffin rings, and send them to table hot, split with your
fingers, and buttered.

FRENCH ROLLS.

Sift a pound of flour into a pan, and rub into it two ounces of butter;
mix in the whites only of three eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and a
table-spoonful of strong yeast; add sufficient milk to make a stiff
dough, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Cover it and set it before the fire
to rise. It should be light in an hour. Then put it on a paste-board,
divide it into rolls, or round cakes; lay them in a floured square pan,
and bake them about ten minutes in a quick oven.

COMMON ROLLS.

Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and mix with it a tea-spoonful of
salt. Warm together a jill of water and a jill of milk. Make a hole in
the middle of the pan of flour; mix with the milk and water a jill of
the best yeast, and pour it into the hole. Mix into the liquid enough
of the surrounding flour to make a thin batter, which you must stir
till quite smooth and free from lumps. Then strew a handful of flour
over the top, and set it in a warm, place to rise for two hours or
more. When it is quite light, and has cracked on the top, make it into
a dough with some more milk and water. Knead it well for ten minutes.
Cover it, and set it again to rise for twenty minutes. Then make the
dough into rolls or round balls. Bake them in a square pan, and send
them to table hot, cut in three, buttered and put together again.

BREAD.

Take one peck or two gallons of fine wheat flour, and sift it into a
kneading trough, or into a small clean tub, or a large broad earthen
pan; and make a deep hole in the middle of the heap of flour, to begin
the process by what is called setting a sponge. Have ready half a pint
of warm water, which in summer should be only lukewarm, but even in
winter it must not be hot or boiling, and stir it well into half a pint
of strong fresh yeast; (if the yeast is home-made you must use from
three quarters to a whole pint;) then pour it into the hole in the
middle of the flour. With a spoon work in the flour round the edges of
the liquid, so as to bring in by degrees sufficient flour to form a
thin batter, which must be well stirred about, for a minute or two.
Then take a handful of flour, and scatter it thinly over the top of
this batter, so as to cover it entirely. Lay a warmed cloth over the
whole, and set it to rise in a warm place; in winter put it nearer the
fire than in summer. When the batter has risen so as to make cracks in
the flour on the top, scatter over it three or four table-spoonfuls
(not more) of fine salt, and begin to form the whole mass into a dough;
commencing round the hole containing the batter, and pouring as much
soft water as is necessary to make the flour mix with the batter; the
water must never be more than lukewarm. When the whole is well mixed,
and the original batter which is to give fermentation to the dough is
completely incorporated with it, knead it hard, turning it over,
pressing it, folding it, and working it thoroughly with your clenched
hands for twenty minutes or half an hour; or till it becomes perfectly
light and stiff. The goodness of bread depends much on the kneading,
which to do well requires strength and practice. When it has been
sufficiently worked, form the dough into a lump in the middle of the
trough or pan, and scatter a little dry flour thinly over it; then
cover it, and set it again in a warm place to undergo a farther
fermentation; for which, if all has been done rightly, about twenty
minutes or half an hour will be sufficient. The oven should be hot by
the time the dough has remained twenty minutes in the lump. If it is a
brick oven it should be heated by faggots or small light wood, allowed
to remain in till burnt down into coals. When the bread is ready, clear
out the coals, and sweep and wipe the floor of the oven clean.
Introduce nothing wet into the oven, as it may crack the bricks when
they are hot. Try the heat of the bottom by throwing in some flour; and
if it scorches and burns black, do not venture to put in the bread till
the oven has had time to become cooler. Put the dough on the
paste-board, (which must be sprinkled with flour,) and divide it into
loaves, forming them of a good shape. Place them in the oven, and close
up the door, which you may open once or twice to see how the bread is
going on. The loaves will bake in from two hours and a half to three
hours, or more, according to their size. When the loaves are done, wrap
each in a clean coarse towel, and stand them up on end to cool slowly.
It is a good way to have the cloths previously made damp by sprinkling
them plentifully with water, and letting them lie awhile rolled up
tightly. This will make the crust of the bread less dry and hard. Bread
should be kept always wrapped in a cloth, and covered from the air in a
box or basket with a close lid. Unless you have other things to bake at
the same time, it is not worth while to heat a brick oven for a small
quantity of bread. Two or three loaves can be baked very well in a
stove, (putting them into square iron pans,) or in a Dutch oven.
[Footnote: If you bake bread in a Dutch oven, take off the lid when the
loaf is done, and let it remain in the oven uncovered for a quarter of
an hour.] If the bread has been mixed over night (which should never be
done in warm weather) and is found, on tasting it, to be sour in the
morning, melt a tea-spoonful of pearl-ash in a little milk-warm water,
and sprinkle it over the dough; let it set half an hour, and then knead
it. This will remove the acidity, and rather improve the bread in
lightness. If dough is allowed to freeze it is totally spoiled. All
bread that is sour, heavy, or ill-baked is not only unpalatable, but
extremely unwholesome, and should never be eaten. These accidents so
frequently happen when bread is made at home by careless, unpractised
or incompetent persons, that families who live in cities or towns will
generally risk less and save more, by obtaining their bread from a
professional baker. If you like a little Indian in your wheat bread,
prepare rather a larger quantity of warm water for setting the sponge;
stirring into the water, while it is warming, enough of sifted Indian
meal to make it like thin gruel. Warm water that has had pumpkin boiled
in it is very good for bread. Strong fresh yeast from the brewery
should always be used in preference to any other. If the yeast is
home-made, or not very strong and fresh, double or treble the quantity
mentioned in the receipt will be necessary to raise the bread. On the
other hand, if too much yeast is put in, the bread will be disagreeably
bitter. [Footnote: If you are obliged from its want of strength to put
in a large quantity of yeast, mix with it two or three handfuls of
bran; add the warm water to it, and then strain it through a sieve or
cloth; or you may correct the bitterness by putting in a few bits of
charcoal and then straining it.] You may take off a portion of the
dough that has been prepared for bread, make it up into little round
cakes or rolls, and bake them for breakfast or tea.

BRAN BREAD.

Sift into a pan three quarts of unbolted wheat meal. Stir a jill of
strong yeast, and a jill of molasses into a quart of soft water, (which
must be warm but not hot,) and add a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash,
or sal-aratus. Make a hole in the heap of flour, pour in the liquid,
and proceed in the usual manner of making bread. This quantity may be
made into two loaves. Bran bread is considered very wholesome; and is
recommended to persons afflicted with dyspepsia.


RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.

Sift two quarts of rye, and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix them
well together. Boil three pints of milk; pour it boiling hot upon the
meal; add two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole very hard. Let
it stand till it becomes of only a lukewarm heat, and then stir in half
a pint of good fresh yeast; if from the brewery and quite fresh, a
smaller quantity will suffice. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough,
and set it to rise in a pan. Cover it with a thick cloth that has been
previously warmed, and set it near the fire. When it is quite light,
and has cracked all over the top, make it into two loaves, put them
into a moderate oven, and bake them two hours and a half.

COMMON YEAST.

Put a large handful of hops into two quarts of boiling water, which
must then be set on the fire again, and boiled twenty minutes with the
hops. Have ready in a pan three pints of sifted flour; strain the
liquid, and pour half of it on the flour. Let the other half stand till
it becomes cool, and then mix it gradually into the pan with the flour,
&c. Then stir into it half a pint of good strong yeast, fresh from the
brewery if possible; if not, use some that was left of the last making.
You may increase the strength by stirring into your yeast before you
bottle it, four or five large tea-spoonfuls of brown sugar, or as many
table-spoonfuls of molasses.

Put it into clean bottles, and cork them loosely till the fermentation
is over. Next morning put in the corks tightly, and set the bottles in
a cold place. When you are going to bottle the yeast it will be an
improvement to place two or three raisins at the bottom of each bottle.
It is best to make yeast very frequently; as, with every precaution, it
will scarcely keep good a week, even in cold weather. If you are
apprehensive of its becoming sour, put into each bottle a lump of
pearl-ash the size of a hazle-nut.

BRAN YEAST.

Mix a pint of wheat bran, and a handful of hops with a quart of water,
and boil them together about twenty minutes. Then strain it through a
sieve into a pan; when the liquid becomes only milk-warm, stir into it
four table-spoonfuls of brewer’s yeast, and two of brown sugar, or four
of molasses. Put it into a wooden bowl, cover it, and set it near the
fire for four or five hours. Then bottle it, and cork it tightly next
day.

PUMPKIN YEAST.

Pare a fine ripe pumpkin, and cut it into pieces. Put them into a
kettle with a large handful of hops, and as much water as will cover
them. Boil them till the pumpkin is soft enough to pass through a
cullender. Having done this, put the pulp into a stone jar, adding half
a pint of good strong yeast to set it into a fermentation. The yeast
must be well stirred into the pumpkin. Leave the jar uncovered till
next day; then secure it lightly with a cork. If pumpkin yeast is well
made, and of a proper consistence, neither too thick nor too thin, it
will keep longer than any other.

BAKER’S YEAST.

To a gallon of soft water put two quarts of wheat bran, one quart of
ground malt, (which may be obtained from a brewery,) and two handfuls
of hops. Boil them together for half an hour. Then strain it through a
sieve, and let it stand till it is cold; after which put to it two
large tea-cups of molasses, and half a pint of strong yeast. Pour it
into a stone jug, and let it stand uncorked till next morning. Then
pour off the thin liquid from the top, and cork the jug tightly. When
you are going to use the yeast, if it has been made two or three days,
stir in a little pearl-ash dissolved in warm water, allowing a lump the
size of a hickory-nut to a pint of yeast. This will correct any
tendency to sourness, and make the yeast more brisk.

TO MAKE BUTTER.

Scald your milk pans every day after washing them; and let them set
till the water gets cold. Then wipe them with a clean cloth. Fill them
all with cold water half an hour before milking time, and do not pour
it out till the moment before you are ready to use the pans. Unless all
the utensils are kept perfectly sweet and nice, the cream and butter
will never be good. Empty milk-pans should stand all day in the sun.

When you have strained the milk into the pans, (which should be broad
and shallow,) place them in the spring-house, setting them down in the
water. After the milk has stood twenty-four hours, skim off the cream,
and deposits it in a large deep earthen jar, commonly called a crock,
which must be kept closely covered, and stirred up with a stick at
least twice a day, and whenever you add fresh cream to it. This
stirring is to prevent the butter from being injured by the skin that
will gather over the top of the cream.

You should churn at least twice a week, for if the cream is allowed to
stand too long, the butter will inevitably have a odd taste. Add to the
cream the strippings of the milk. Butter of only two or three days
gathering is the best. With four or five good cows, you may easily
manage to have a churning every three days. If your dairy is on a large
scale, churn every two days.

Have your churn very clean, and rinse and cool it with cold water. A
barrel churn is best; though a small upright one, worked by a staff or
dash, will do very well where there are but one or two cows.

Strain the cream from the crock into the churn, and put on the lid.
Move the handle slowly in warm weather, as churning too fast will make
the butter soft. When you find that the handle moves heavily and with
great difficulty, the butter has come; that is, it has separated from
the thin fluid and gathered into a lump, and it then is not necessary
to churn any longer. Take it out with a wooden ladle, and put it into a
small tub or pail. Squeeze and press it hard with the ladle, to get out
all that remains of the milk. Add a little salt, and then squeeze and
work It for a long time. If any of the milk is allowed to remain in, it
will speedily turn sour and spoil the butter. Set it away in a cool
place for three hours, and then work it over again. [Footnote: A marble
slab or table will be found of great advantage in working and making up
butter.] Wash it in cold water; weigh it; make it up into separate
pounds, smoothing, and shaping it; and clap each pound on your wooden
butter print, dipping the print every time in cold water. Spread a
clean linen cloth on a bench in the spring-house; place the butter on
it, and let it set till it becomes perfectly hard. Then wrap each pound
in a separate piece of linen that has been dipped in cold water.

Pour the buttermilk into a clean crock, and place it in the
spring-house, with a saucer to dip it out with. Keep the pot covered.
The buttermilk will be excellent the first day; but afterwards it will
become too thick and sour. Winter buttermilk is never very palatable.

Before you put away the churn, wash and scald it well; and the day that
you use it again, keep it for an hour or more filled with cold water.

In cold weather, churning is a much more tedious process than in
summer, as the butter will be longer coming. It is best then to have
the churn in a warm room, or near the fire. If you wish to prepare the
butter for keeping a long time, take it after it has been thoroughly
well made, and pack it down tightly into a large jar. You need not in
working it, add more salt than if the butter was to be eaten
immediately. But preserve it by making a brine of fine salt, dissolved
in water. The brine must be strong enough to bear up an egg on the
surface without sinking. Strain the brine into the jar, so as to be
about two inches above the butter. Keep the jar closely covered, and
set it in a cool place.

When you want any of the butter for use, take it off evenly from the
top; so that the brine may continue to cover it at a regular depth.

This receipt for making butter is according to the method in use at the
best farm-houses in Pennsylvania, and if exactly followed will be found
very good. The badness of butter is generally owing to carelessness or
mismanagement; to keeping the cream too long without churning; to want
of cleanliness in the utensils; to not taking the trouble to work it
sufficiently; or to the practice of salting it so profusely as to
render it unpleasant to the taste, and unfit for cakes or pastry. All
these causes of bad butter are inexcusable, and can easily be avoided.
Unless the cows have been allowed to feed where there are bitter weeds
or garlic, the milk cannot naturally have any disagreeable taste, and
therefore the fault of the butter must be the fault of the maker. Of
course, the cream is much richer where the pasture is fine and
luxuriant; and in winter, when the cows have only dry food, the butter
must be consequently whiter and more insipid than in the grazing
season. Still, if properly made, even winter butter cannot taste badly.

Many economical housekeepers always buy for cooking, butter of inferior
quality. This is a foolish practice; as when it is bad, the taste will
predominate through all attempts to disguise it, and render every thing
unpalatable with which it is combined. As the use of butter is designed
to improve and not to spoil the flavour of cookery, it is better to
omit it altogether, and to substitute something else, unless you can
procure that which is good. Lard, suet, beef-drippings, and sweet oil,
may be used in the preparation of various dishes; and to eat with bread
or warm cakes, honey, molasses, or stewed fruit, &c, are far superior
to bad butter.

CHEESE.

In making good cheese, skim milk is never used. The milk should either
be warm from the cow or heated to that temperature over the fire. When
the rennet is put in, the heat of the milk should be from 90 to 96
degrees. Three quarts of milk will yield, on an average, about a pound
of cheese. In infusing the rennet, allow a quart of lukewarm water, and
a table-spoonful of salt to a piece about half the size of your hand.
The rennet must soak all night in the water before it can be fit for
use. In the morning (after taking as much of it as you want) put the
rennet water into a bottle and cork it tightly. It will keep the better
for adding to it a wine glass of brandy. If too large a proportion of
rennet is mixed with the milk, the cheese will be tough and leathery.

To make a very good cheese, take three buckets of milk warm from the
cow, and strain it immediately into a large tub or kettle. Stir into it
half a tea-cupful of infusion of rennet or rennet-water; and having
covered it, set it in a warm place for about half an hour, or till it
becomes a firm curd. Cut the curd into squares with a large knife, or
rather with a wooden slitting-dish, and let it stand about fifteen
minutes. Then break it up fine with your hands, and let it stand a
quarter of an hour longer. Then pour off from the top as much of the
whey as you can; tie up the curd in a linen cloth or bag, and hang it
up to drain out the remainder of the whey; setting a pan under it to
catch the droppings. After all the whey is drained out, put the curd
into the cheese-tray, and cut it again into slices; chop it coarse; put
a cloth about it; place it in the cheese-hoop or mould, and set it in
the screw press for half an hour, pressing it hard. [Footnote: If you
are making cheese on a small scale, and have not a regular press, put
the curd (after you have wrapped it in a cloth) into a small circular
wooden box or tub with numerous holes bored in the bottom; and with a
lid that fits the inside exactly. Lay heavy weights on the lid in such
a manner as to press evenly all over.] Then take it out; chop the curd
very fine; add salt to your taste; and put it again into the
cheese-hoop with a cloth about it, and press it again. You must always
wet the cloth all over to prevent its sticking to the cheese, and
tearing the surface. Let it remain in the press till next morning, when
you must take it out and turn it; then wrap it in a clean wet cloth,
and replace it in the press, where it must remain all day. On the
following morning again take out the cheese; turn it, renew the cloth,
and put it again into the press. Three days pressing will be
sufficient.

When you finally take it out of the press, grease the cheese all over
with lard, and put it on a clean shelf in a dry dark room, or in a wire
safe. Wipe, grease, and turn it carefully every day. If you omit this a
single day the cheese will spoil. Keep the shelf perfectly clean, and
see that the cheese does not stick to it. When the cheese becomes firm,
you may omit the greasing; but continue to rub it all over every day
with a clean dry cloth. Continue this for five or sis weeks; the cheese
will then be fit to eat.

The best time for making cheese is when the pasture is in perfection.

You may enrich the colour of the cheese by a little anatto or arnotta;
of which procure a small quantity from the druggist, powder it, tie it
in a muslin rag, and hold it in the warm milk, (after it is strained,)
pressing out the colouring matter with your fingers, as laundresses
press their indigo or blue rag in the tub of water. Anatto is perfectly
harmless.

After they begin to dry, (or ripen, as it is called,) it is the custom
in some dairy-farms, to place the cheeses in the haystack, and keep
them there among the hay for five or six weeks. This is said greatly to
improve their consistence and flavour. Cheeses are sometimes ripened by
putting them every day in fresh grass.

SAGE CHEESE.

Take some of the young top leaves of the sage plant, and pound them in
a mortar till you have extracted the juice. Put the juice into a bowl,
wipe out the mortar, put in some spinach leaves, and pound them till
you have an equal quantity of spinach juice. Mix the two juices
together, and stir them into the warm milk immediately after you have
put in the rennet. You may use sage juice alone; but the spinach will
greatly improve the colour; besides correcting the bitterness of the
sage.

STILTON CHEESE.

Having strained the morning’s milk, and skimmed the cream from the milk
of the preceding evening, mix the cream and the new milk together while
the latter is quite warm, and stir in the rennet-water. When the curd
has formed, you must not break it up, (as is done with other cheese,)
but take it out all at once with a wooden skimming dish, and place it
on a sieve to drain gradually. While it is draining, keep pressing it
gently till it becomes firm and dry. Then lay a clean cloth at the
bottom of a wooden cheese-hoop or mould, which should have a few small
holes bored in the bottom. The cloth must be large enough for the end
to turn over the top again, after the curd is put in. Place it in the
press for two hours; turn it, (putting a clean cloth under it,) and
press it again for six or eight hours. Then turn it again, rub the
cheese all over with salt, and return it to the press for fourteen
hours. Should the edges of the cheese project, they must be pared off.

When you take it finally out of the press, bind it round tightly with a
cloth, (which must be changed every day when you turn the cheese,) and
set it on a shelf or board. Continue the cloths till the cheese is firm
enough to support itself; rubbing or brushing the outside every day
when you turn it. After the cloths are left off, continue to brush the
cheese every day for two or three months; during which time it may be
improved by keeping it covered all round, under and over, with grass,
which must be renewed every day, and gathered when quite dry after the
dew is off. Keep the cheese and the grass between two large plates.

A Stilton cheese is generally made of a small size, seldom larger in
circumference than a dinner plate, and about four or five inches thick.
They are usually put up for keeping, in cases of sheet lead, fitting
them exactly. There is no cheese superior to them in richness and
mildness.

Cream cheeses (as they are generally called) may be made in this
manner. They are always eaten quite fresh, while the inside is still
somewhat soft. They are made small, and are sent to table whole, cut
across into triangular slices like a pie or cake. After they become fit
to eat, they will keep good but a day or two, but they are considered
while fresh very delicious.

COTTAGE CHEESE.

This is that preparation of milk vulgarly called Smear Case. Take a pan
of milk that has just began to turn sour; cover it, and set it by the
fire till it becomes a curd. Pour off the whey from the top, and tie up
the curd in a pointed linen bag, and hang it up to drain; setting
something under it to catch the droppings. Do not squeeze it. Let it
drain all night, and in the morning put the curd into a pan, (adding
some rich cream,) and work it very fine with a spoon, chopping and
pressing it till about the consistence of a soft bread pudding. To a
soup plate of the fine curd put a tea-spoonful of salt; and a piece of
butter about the size of a walnut; mixing all thoroughly together.
Having prepared the whole in this manner, put it into a stone or china
vessel; cover it closely, and set it in a cold place till tea time. You
may make it of milk that is entirely sweet by forming the curd with
rennet.

A WELSH RABBIT.

Toast some slices of bread, (having cut off the crust,) butter them,
and keep them hot. Grate or shave down with a knife some fine mellow
cheese: and, if it is not very rich, mix with it a few small bits of
butter. Put it into a cheese-toaster, or into a skillet, and add to it
a tea-spoonful of made mustard; a little cayenne pepper; and if you
choose, a wine glass of fresh porter or of red wine. Stir the mixture
over hot coals, till it is completely dissolved; and then brown it by
holding over it a salamander, or a red-hot shovel. Lay the toast in the
bottom and round the sides of a deep dish; put the melted cheese upon
it, and serve it up as hot as possible, with dry toast in a separate
plate; and accompanied by porter or ale.

This preparation of cheese is for a plain supper.

Dry cheese is frequently grated on little plates for the tea-table.

TO MAKE CHOCOLATE

To each square of a chocolate cake allow three jills, or a chocolate
cup and a half of boiling water. Scrape down the chocolate with a
knife, and mix it first to a paste with a small quantity of the hot
water; just enough to melt it in. Then put it into a block tin pot with
the remainder of the water; set it on hot coals; cover it, and let it
boil (stirring it twice) till the liquid is one third reduced. Supply
that third with cream or rich milk; stir it again, and take it off the
fire. Serve it up as hot as possible, with dry toast, or dry rusk. It
chills immediately. If you wish it frothed, pour it into the cup, and
twirl round in it the little wooden instrument called a chocolate mill,
till you nave covered the top with foam.

TO MAKE TEA.

In buying tea, it is best to get it by the box, of an importer, that
you may be sure of having it fresh, and unmixed with any that is old
and of inferior quality. The box should be kept in a very dry place. If
green tea is good, it will look green in the cup when poured out. Black
tea should be dark coloured and have a fragrant flowery smell. The best
pots for making tea are those of china. Metal and Wedgwood tea-pots by
frequent use will often communicate a disagreeable taste to the tea.
This disadvantage may be remedied in Wedgwood ware, by occasionally
boiling the tea-pots in a vessel of hot water.

In preparing to make tea, let the pot be twice scalded from the
tea-kettle, which must be boiling hard at the moment the water is
poured on the tea; otherwise it will be weak and insipid, even when a
large quantity is put in. The best way is to have a chafing dish, with
a kettle always boiling on it, in the room where the tea is made. It is
a good rule to allow two tea-spoonfuls of tea to half a pint or a large
cupful of water, or two tea-spoonfuls for each grown person that is to
drink tea, and one spoonful extra. The pot being twice scalded, put in
the tea, and pour on the water about ten minutes before you want to
fill the cups, that it may have time to draw or infuse. Have hot water
in another pot, to weaken the cups of those that like it so. That the
second course of cups may be as strong as the first, put some tea into
a cup just before you sit down to table, pour on it a very little
boiling water, (just enough to cover it,) set a saucer over it to keep
in the steam, and let it infuse till you have filled all the first
cups; then add it to that already in the tea-pot, and pour in a little
boiling water from the kettle. Except that it is less convenient for a
large family, a kettle on a chafing dish is better than an urn, as the
water may be kept longer boiling.

In making black tea, use a larger quantity than of green, as it is of a
much weaker nature. The best black teas in general use are pekoe and
pouchong; the best green teas are imperial, young hyson, and gunpowder.

TO MAKE COFFEE.

The manner in which coffee is roasted is of great importance to its
flavour. If roasted too little, it will be weak and insipid; if too
much, the taste will be bitter and unpleasant. To have it very good, it
should be roasted immediately before it is made, doing no more than the
quantity you want at that time. It loses much of its strength by
keeping, even in twenty-four hours after roasting. It should on no
consideration be ground till directly before it is made. Every family
should be provided with a coffee roaster, which is an iron cylinder to
stand before the fire, and is either turned by a handle, or wound up
like a jack to go of itself. If roasted in an open pot or pan, much of
the flavour evaporates in the process. Before the coffee is put into
the roaster, it should be carefully examined and picked, lest there
should be stones or bad grains among it. It should be roasted of a
bright brown; and will be improved by putting among it a piece of
butter when about half done.

Watch it carefully while roasting, looking at it frequently.

A coffee-mill affixed to the wall is far more convenient than one that
must he held on the lap. It is best to grind the coffee while warm.

Allow half a pint of ground coffee to three pints of water. If the
coffee is not freshly roasted, you should put in more. Put the water
into the tin coffee-pot, and set it on hot coals; when it boils, put in
the coffee, a spoonful at a time, (stirring it between each spoonful,)
and add two or three chips of isinglass, or the white of an egg. Stir
it frequently, till it has risen up to the top in boiling; then set it
a little farther from the fire, and boil it gently for ten minutes, or
a quarter of an hour; after which pour in a tea-cup of cold water, and
put it in the corner to settle for ten minutes. Scald your silver or
china pot, and transfer the coffee to it; carefully pouring it off from
the grounds, so as not to disturb them.

If coffee is allowed to boil too long, it will lose much of its
strength, and also become sour.

FRENCH COFFEE.

To make coffee without boiling, you must have a biggin, the best sort
of which is what in France is called a Grecque. They are to be had of
various sizes and prices at the tin stores. Coffee made in this manner
is much less troublesome than when boiled, and requires no white of egg
or isinglass to clear it. The coffee should be freshly roasted and
ground. Allow two cupfuls of ground coffee to sis cupfuls of boiling
water. Having first scalded the biggin, (which should have strainers of
perforated tin, and not of linen,) put in the coffee, and pour on the
water, which should be boiling hard at the time. Shut down the lid,
place the pot near the fire, and the coffee will be ready as soon as it
has all drained through the coarse and fine strainers into the receiver
below the spout. Scald your china or silver pot, and pour the coffee
into it. But it is best to have a biggin in the form of an urn, in
which the coffee can both be made and brought to table.

For what is called milk coffee,—boil the milk or cream separately;
bring it to table in a covered vessel, and pour it hot into the coffee,
the flavour of which will be impaired if the milk is boiled with it.



DOMESTIC LIQUORS ETC.


SPRUCE BEER

Put into a large kettle, ten gallons of water, a quarter of a pound of
hops, and a tea-cupful of ginger. Boil them together till all the hops
sink to the bottom. Then dip out a bucket full of the liquor, and stir
into it six quarts of molasses, and three ounces and a half of the
essence of spruce. When all is dissolved, mix it with the liquor in the
kettle; strain it through a hair sieve into a cask; and stir well into
it half a pint of good strong yeast. Let it ferment a day or two; then
bung up the cask, and you may bottle the beer the next day. It will be
fit for use in a week.

For the essence of spruce, you may substitute two pounds of the outer
sprigs of the spruce fir, boiled ten minutes in the liquor.

To make spruce beer for present use, and in a smaller quantity, boil a
handful of hops in two gallons and a half of water, till they fall to
the bottom, Then strain the water, and when it is lukewarm, stir into
it a table-spoonful of ground white ginger; a pint of molasses; a
table-spoonful of essence of spruce; and half a pint of yeast. Mix the
whole well together in a stone jug, and let it ferment for a day and a
half, or two days. Then put it into bottles, with three or four raisins
in the bottom of each, to prevent any further fermentation. It will
then be fit for immediate use.

GINGER BEER.

Break up a pound and a half of loaf-sugar, and mix with it three ounces
of strong white ginger, and the grated peel of two lemons. Put these
ingredients into a large stone jar, and pour over them two gallons of
boiling water. When it becomes milk-warm strain it, and add the juice
of the lemons and two large table-spoonfuls of strong yeast. Make this
beer in the evening and let it stand all night. Next morning bottle it
in little half pint stone bottles, tying down the corks with twine.

MOLASSES BEER.

To six quarts of water, add two quarts of West India molasses; half a
pint of the best brewer’s yeast; two table-spoonfuls of ground ginger;
and one table-spoonful of cream of tartar. Stir all together. Let it
stand twelve hours, and then bottle it, putting three or four raisins
into each bottle.

It will be much improved by substituting the juice and grated peel of a
large lemon, for one of the spoonfuls of ginger.

Molasses beer keeps good but two or three days.

SASSAFRAS BEER.

Have ready two gallons of soft water; one quart of wheat bran; a large
handful of dried apples; half a pint of molasses; a small handful of
hops; half a pint of strong fresh yeast, and a piece of sassafras root
the size of an egg.

Put all the ingredients (except the molasses and yeast) at once into a
large kettle. Boil it till the apples are quite soft. Put the molasses
into a small clean tub or a large pan. Set a hair sieve over the
vessel, and strain the mixture through it. Let it stand till it becomes
only milk-warm, and then stir in the yeast. Put the liquor immediately
into the keg or jugs, and let it stand uncorked to ferment. Fill the
jugs quite full, that the liquor in fermenting may run over. Set them
in a large tub. When you see that the fermentation or working has
subsided, cork it, and it will be fit for use next day.

Two large table-spoonfuls of ginger stirred into the molasses will be
found an improvement.

If the yeast is stirred in while the liquor is too warm, it will be
likely to turn sour.

If the liquor is not put immediately into the jugs, it will not ferment
well.

Keep it in a cold place. It will not in warm weather be good more than
two days. It is only made for present use.

GOOSEBERRY WINE.

Allow three gallons of soft water (measured after it has boiled an
hour) to six gallons of gooseberries, which must be full ripe. Top and
tail the gooseberries; put them, a few at a time, into a wooden dish,
and with a rolling-pin or beetle break and mash every one; transferring
them, as they are done, into a large stone jar. Pour the boiling water
upon the mashed gooseberries; cover the jar, and let them stand twelve
hours. Then strain and measure the juice, and to each quart allow
three-quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar; mix it with the liquid, and
let it stand eight or nine hours to dissolve, stirring it several
times.

Then pour it into a keg of proper size for containing it, and let it
ferment at the bung-hole; filling it up as it works out with some of
the liquor reserved for that purpose. As soon as it ceases to hiss,
stop it close with a cloth wrapped round the bung. A pint of white
brandy for every gallon of the gooseberry wine may be added on bunging
it up. At the end of four or five months it will probably be fine
enough to bottle off. It is best to bottle it in cold frosty weather.
You may refine it by allowing to every gallon of wine the whites of two
eggs, beaten to a froth, with a very small tea-spoonful of salt. When
the white of egg, &c, is a stiff froth, take out a quart of the wine,
and mix them well together. Then pour it into the cask, and in a few
days it will be fine and clear. You may begin to use it any time after
it is bottled. Put two or three raisins in the bottom of each bottle.
They will tend to keep the wine from any farther fermentation.

Fine gooseberry wine has frequently passed for champagne. Keep the
bottles in saw-dust, lying on their sides.

CURRANT WINE.

Take four gallons of ripe currants; strip them from the stalks into a
great stone jar that has a cover to it, and mash them with a long thick
stick. Let them stand twenty-four hours; then put the currants into a
large linen bag; wash out the jar, set it under the bag, and squeeze
the juice into it. Boil together two gallons and a half of water, and
five pounds and a half of the best loaf-sugar, skimming it well. When
the scum ceases to rise, mix the syrup with the currant juice. Let it
stand a fortnight or three weeks to settle; and then transfer it to
another vessel, taking care not to disturb the lees or dregs. If it is
not quite clear and bright, refine it by mixing with a quart of the
wine, (taken out for the purpose,) the whites of two eggs beaten to a
stiff froth, and half an ounce of cream of tartar. Pour this gradually
into the vessel. Let it stand ten days, and then bottle it off. Place
the bottles in saw-dust, laying them on their sides. Take care that the
saw-dust is not from pine wood. The wine will be fit to drink in a
year, but is better when three or four years old.

You may add a little brandy to it when you make it; allowing a quart of
brandy to six gallons of wine.

RASPBERRY WINE.

Put four gallons of ripe raspberries into a stone jar, and mash them
with a round stick. Take four gallons of soft water, (measured after it
has boiled an hour,) and strain it warm over the raspberries. Stir it
well and let it stand twelve hours. Then strain it through a bag, and
to every gallon of liquor put three pounds of loaf-sugar. Set it over a
clear fire, and boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. When it
is cold bottle it. Open the bottles every day for a fortnight, closing
them again in a few minutes. Then seal the corks, and lay the bottles
on their sides in saw-dust, which must not be from pine wood.

ELDERBERRY WINE.

Gather the elderberries when quite ripe; put them into a stone jar,
mash them with a round stick, and set them in a warm oven, or in a
large kettle of boiling water till the jar is hot through, and the
berries begin to simmer. Then take them out, and press and strain them
through a sieve. To every quart of juice allow a pound of Havanna or
Lisbon sugar, and two quarts of cold soft water. Put the sugar into a
large kettle, pour the juice over it, and, when it has dissolved, stir
in the water. Set the kettle over the fire, an& boil and skim it till
the scum ceases to rise. To four gallons of the liquor add a pint and a
half of brandy. Put it into a keg, and let it stand with the bung put
in loosely for four or five days, by which time it will have ceased to
ferment. Then stop it closely, plastering the bung with clay. At the
end of six months, draw off a little of it; and if it is not quite
clear and bright, refine it with the whites and shells of three or four
eggs, beaten to a stiff froth and stirred into a quart of the wine,
taken out for the purpose and then returned to the cask; or you may
refine it with an ounce or more of dissolved isinglass. Let it stand a
week or two, and then bottle it.

This is an excellent domestic wine, very common in England, and
deserving to be better known in America, where the elderberry tree is
found in great abundance. Elderberry wine is generally taken mulled
with spice, and warm.

ELDER FLOWER WINE.

Take the flowers or blossoms of the elder tree, and strip them from the
stalks. To every quart of flowers allow one gallon of water, and three
pounds of while sugar. Boil and skim the sugar and water, and then pour
it hot on the flowers. When cool, mix in with it some lemon juice and
some yeast; allowing to six gallons of the liquor the juice of six
lemons, and four or five table-spoonfuls of good yeast stirred in very
hard. Let it ferment for three days in a tub covered with a double
blanket. Then strain the wine through a sieve, (add six whites of eggs
beaten to a stiff froth, or an ounce of melted isinglass,) and put it
into a cask, in the bottom of which you have laid four or five pounds
of the best raisins, stoned. Stop the cask closely, and in six months
the wine will be fit to bottle. It will much resemble Frontiniac, the
elder flowers imparting to it a very pleasant taste.

CIDER WINE.

Take sweet cider immediately from the press. Strain it through a
flannel bag into a tub, and stir into it as much honey as will make it
strong enough to bear up an egg. Then boil and skim it, and when the
scum ceases to rise, strain it again. When cool, put it into a cask,
and set it in a cool cellar till spring. Then bottle it off; and when
ripe, it will be found a very pleasant beverage. The cider must be of
the very best quality, made entirely from good sound apples.

MEAD.

To every gallon of water put five pounds of strained honey, (the water
must be hot when you add the honey,) and boil it three quarters of an
hour, skimming it well. Then put in some hops tied in a thin bag,
(allowing an ounce or a handful to each gallon,) and let it boil half
an hour longer. Strain it into a tub, and let it stand four days. Then
put it into a cask, (or into a demijohn if the quantity is small,)
adding for each gallon of mead a jill of brandy and a sliced lemon. If
a large cask, do not bottle it till it has stood a year.

FOX GRAPE SHRUB.

Gather the grapes when they are full grown, but before they begin to
purple. Pick from the stems a sufficient quantity to nearly fill a
large preserving kettle, and pour on them as much boiling water as the
kettle will hold. Set it over a brisk fire, and keep it scalding hot
till all the grapes have burst. Then take them off, press out and
strain the liquor, and allow to each quart a pound of sugar stirred
well in. Dissolve the sugar in the juice; then put them together into a
clean kettle, and boil and skim them for ten minutes, or till the scum
ceases to rise. When cold, bottle it; first putting into each bottle a
jill of brandy. Seal the bottles, and keep them in a warm closet.

You may make gooseberry shrub in this manner.

CURRANT SHRUB.

Your currants must be quite ripe. Pick them from the stalks, and
squeeze them through a linen bag. To each quart of juice allow a pound
of loaf-sugar. Put the sugar and juice into a preserving kettle, and
let it melt before it goes on the fire. Boil it ten minutes, skimming
it well. When cold, add a jill of the best white brandy to each quart
of the juice. Bottle it, and set it away for use; sealing the corks. It
improves by keeping.

Raspberry shrub may be made in this manner; also strawberry.

CHERRY SHRUB.

Pick from the stalks, and stone a sufficient quantity of ripe morellas,
or other red cherries of the best and most juicy description. Put them
with all their juice into a stone jar, and set it, closely covered,
into a deep kettle of boiling water. Keep it boiling hard for a quarter
of an hour. Then pour the cherries into a bag, and strain and press out
all the juice. Allow a pound of sugar to a quart of juice, boil them
together ten minutes in a preserving kettle, skimming them well, and
when cold, bottle the liquid; first putting a jill of brandy into each
bottle.

CHERRY BOUNCE.

Mix together six pounds of ripe morellas and six pounds of large black
heart cherries. Put them into a wooden bowl or tub, and with a pestle
or mallet mash them so as to crack all the stones. Mix with the
cherries three pounds of loaf-sugar, or of sugar candy broken up, and
put them into a demijohn, or into a large stone jar. Pour on two
gallons of the best double rectified whiskey. Stop the vessel closely,
and let it stand three months, shaking it every day during the first
month. At the end of the three months you may strain the liquor and
bottle it off. It improves by age.

LEMON SYRUP.

Break up into large pieces six pounds of fine loaf-sugar. Take twelve
large ripe lemons, and (without cutting them) grate the yellow rind
upon the sugar. Then, put the sugar, with the lemon gratings and two
quarts of water, into a preserving kettle, and let it dissolve. When it
is all melted, boil it till quite thick, skimming it till no more scum
rises; it will then be done. Have ready the juice of all the lemons,
and when the syrup is quite cold, stir in the lemon juice. Bottle it,
and keep it in a cool place.

It makes a delicious drink in summer, in the proportion of one third
lemon syrup and two thirds ice water.

LEMON CORDIAL.

Pare off very thin the yellow rind of a dozen large lemons; throw the
parings into a gallon of white brandy, and let them steep till next
day, or at least twelve hours. Break up four pounds of loaf-sugar into
another vessel, and squeeze upon it the juice of the lemons. Let this
too stand all night. Next day mix all together, boil two quarts of
milk, and pour it boiling hot into the other ingredients. Cover the
vessel, and let it stand eight days, stirring it daily. Then strain it
through a flannel bag till the liquid is perfectly clear. Let it stand
six weeks in a demijohn or glass jar, and then bottle it.

To make it still more clear, you may filter it through a piece of fine
muslin pinned down to the bottom of a sieve, or through blotting paper,
which must be frequently renewed. It should be white blotting paper.

ROSE CORDIAL.

Put a pound of fresh rose leaves into a tureen, with a quart of
lukewarm water. Cover the vessel, and let them infuse for twenty-four
hours. Then squeeze them through a linen bag till all the liquid is
pressed out. Put a fresh pound of rose leaves into the tureen, pour the
liquid back into it, and let it infuse again for two days. You may
repeat this till you obtain a very strong infusion. Then to a pint of
the infusion add half a pound of loaf-sugar, half a pint of white
brandy, an ounce of broken cinnamon, and an ounce of coriander seeds.
Put it into a glass jar, cover it well, and let it stand for two weeks.
Then filter it through a fine muslin or a blotting paper (which must be
white) pinned on the bottom of a sieve; and bottle it for use.

STRAWBERRY CORDIAL.

Hull a sufficient quantity of ripe strawberries, and squeeze them
through a linen bag. To each quart of the juice allow a pint of white
brandy, and half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. Put the liquid into a
glass jar or a demijohn, and let it stand a fortnight. Then filter it
through a sieve, to the bottom of which a piece of fine muslin or
blotting paper has been fastened; and afterwards bottle it,

RASPBERRY CORDIAL.

May be made in the above manner.

QUINCE CORDIAL.

Take the finest and ripest quinces you can procure, wipe them clean,
and cut out all the defective parts. Then grate them into a tureen or
some other large vessel, leaving out the seeds and cores. Let the
grated pulp remain covered in the tureen for twenty-four hours. Then,
squeeze it through a jelly-bag or cloth. To six quarts of the juice
allow a quart of cold water, three pounds of loaf-sugar, (broken up,)
and a quart of white brandy. Mix the whole well together, and put it
into a stone jar. Have ready three very small flannel or thick muslin
bags, (not larger than two inches square,) fill one with grated nutmeg,
another with powdered mace, and the third with powdered cloves; and pat
them, into the jar that the spice may flavour the liquor without mixing
with it. Leave the jar uncorked for a few days; reserving some of the
liquor to replace that which may flow over in the fermentation.
Whenever it has done working, bottle it off, but do not use it for six
months. If not sufficiently bright and clear, filter it through fine
muslin, pinned round the bottom of a sieve, or through a white blotting
paper fastened in the same manner.

PEACH CORDIAL.

Take the ripest and most juicy free-stone peaches you can procure. Cut
them from the stones, and quarter them without paring. Crack the
stones, and extract the kernels, which must be blanched and slightly
pounded. Put the peaches into a large stone jar in layers, alternately
with layers of the kernels, and of powdered loaf-sugar. When the jar is
three parts full of the peaches, kernels, and sugar, fill it up with
white brandy. Set the Jar in a large pan, and leave it uncovered for
three or four days, in case of its fermenting and flowing over at the
top. Fill up what is thus wasted with more brandy, and then close the
jar tightly. Let it stand, five or six months; then filter it, and
bottle it for use.

Cherry, apricot, and plum cordial may be made in the above manner;
adding always the kernels.

ANNISEED CORDIAL.

Melt a pound of loaf-sugar in two quarts of water. Mix it with two
quarts of white brandy, and add a table-spoonful of oil of anniseed.
Let it stand a week; then filter it through, white blotting paper, and
bottle it for use.

Clove or Cinnamon Cordial may be made in the same manner, by mixing
sugar, water and brandy, and adding oil of cinnamon or oil of cloves.
You may colour any of these cordials red by stirring in a little
powdered cochineal that has been dissolved in a small quantity of
brandy.

ROSE BRANDY.

Nearly fill a china or glass jar with freshly-gathered rose leaves, and
pour in sufficient French white brandy to fill it quite up; and then
cover it closely. Next day put the whole into a strainer, and having
squeezed and pressed the rose leaves and drained off the liquid, throw
away the leaves, put fresh ones into the jar, and return the brandy to
it. Repeat this every day while roses are in season, (taking care to
keep the jar well covered,) and you will find the liquid much better
than rose water for flavouring cakes and puddings.

LEMON BRANDY.

When you use lemons for punch or lemonade, do not throw away the peels,
but cut them in small pieces, and put them into a glass jar or bottle
of brandy. You will find this brandy useful for many purposes.

In the same way keep for use the kernels of peach and plum stones,
pounding them slightly before you put them into the brandy.

NOYAU.

Blanch and break up a pound of shelled bitter almonds or peach kernels.
Mix with them the grated rinds of three large lemons, half a pint of
clarified honey that has been boiled and skimmed, and three pounds of
the best double-refined loaf-sugar. Put these ingredients into a jar or
demijohn; pour in four quarts of the best white brandy or proof spirit;
stop the vessel, and let it stand three months, shaking it every day
for the first month. Then filter it, dilute it with rose water to your
taste, (you may allow a quart of rose water to each quart of the
liquor,) and bottle it for use.

This and any other cordial may be coloured red by mixing with it (after
it is filtered) cochineal, powdered, dissolved in a little white
brandy, and strained through fine muslin.

RATAFIA.

Pound in a mortar, and. mix together a pound of shelled bitter almonds,
an ounce of nutmegs, a pound of fine loaf-sugar, and one grain
(apothecaries’ weight) of ambergris. Infuse these ingredients for a
week in a gallon of white brandy or proof spirit. Then filter it, and
bottle it for use.

CAPILLAIRE.

Powder eight pounds of loaf-sugar, and wet it with three pints of water
and three eggs well beaten with their shells. Stir the whole mass very
hard, and boil it twice over, skimming it well. Then strain it, and
stir in two wine glasses of orange flower water. Bottle it, and use it
for a summer draught, mixed with a little lemon juice and water; or you
may sweeten punch with it.

ORGEAT.

To make orgeat paste, blanch, mix together, and pound in a mortar till
perfectly smooth, three quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds,
and one quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds; adding frequently
a little orange flower or rose water, to keep them from oiling; and
mixing with them, as you proceed, a pound of fine loaf-sugar that has
been previously powdered by itself. When the whole is thoroughly
incorporated to a stiff paste, put it into little pots and close them
well. It will keep five or six months, and, when you wish to use it for
a beverage, allow a piece of orgeat about the size of an egg to each
half pint or tumbler of water. Having well stirred it, strain the
mixture through a napkin.

To make liquid orgeat for present use; blanch and pound in a mortar,
with rose water, a quarter of a pound of sweet and an ounce and a half
of bitter almonds. Then sweeten three pints of rich milk with half a
pound of loaf-sugar, and stir the almonds gradually into it. Boil it
over hot coals; and as soon as it comes to a boil, take it off and stir
it frequently till it gets cold. Then strain it, add a glass of brandy,
and put it into decanters. When you pour it out for drinking dilute it
with water.

LEMONADE.

Take fine ripe lemons, and roll them under your hand on the table to
increase the quantity of juice. Then cut and squeeze them into a
pitcher, and mix the juice with loaf-sugar and cold water. To half a
pint of lemon juice you may allow a pint and a half of water; and ten
or twelve moderate sized lumps of sugar. Send it round in little
glasses with handles.

To make a tumbler of _very good_ lemonade, allow the juice of one lemon
and four or five lumps of sugar, filling up the glass with water. In
summer use ice water.

ORANGEADE.

Is made of oranges, in the same proportion as lemonade. It is very fine
when frozen.

PUNCH.

Roll twelve fine lemons under your hand on the table; then pare off the
yellow rind very thin, and boil it in a gallon of water till all the
flavour is drawn out. Break up into a large bowl, two pounds of
loaf-sugar, and squeeze the lemons over it. When the water has boiled
sufficiently, strain it from the lemon-peel, and mix it with the lemon
juice and sugar. Stir in a quart of rum or of the best whiskey.

Two scruples of flowers of benjamin, steeped in a quart of rum, will
make an infusion which much resembles the arrack of the East Indies. It
should be kept in a bottle, and a little of it will be found to impart
a very fine and fragrant flavour to punch made in the usual manner.

FROZEN PUNCH.

Is made as above, omitting one half of the rum or whiskey. Put it into
an ice-cream freezer, shaking or stirring it all the time, when it is
frozen, send it round immediately, in small glasses with a tea-spoon
for each.

ROMAN PUNCH.

Grate the yellow rinds of twelve lemons and two oranges upon two pounds
of loaf-sugar. Squeeze on the juice of the lemons and oranges; cover
it, and let it stand till next day. Then strain it through a sieve, add
a bottle of champagne, and the whites of eight eggs beaten to a froth.
You may freeze it or not.

MILK PUNCH.

What is commonly called milk punch, is a mixture of brandy or rum,
sugar, milk and nutmeg, with-without either lemon juice or water. It is
taken cold with a lump of ice in each tumbler.

FINE MILK PUNCH.

Pare off the yellow rind of nine large lemons, and steep it for
twenty-four hours in a quart of brandy or rum. Then mix with it the
juice of the lemons, a pound and a half of loaf-sugar, two grated
nutmegs, and a quart of water. Add a quart of rich unskimmed milk, made
boiling hot, and strain the whole through a jelly-bag. You may either
use it as soon as it is cold, or make a larger quantity, (in the above
proportions,) and bottle it. It will keep several months.

REGENT’S PUNCH.

Take four large lemons; roll them on the table to make them more juicy,
and then pare them as thin as possible. Cut out all the pulp, and throw
away the seeds and the white part of the rind. Put the yellow rind and
the pulp into a pint of boiling water with two tea-spoonfuls of raw
green tea of the best sort. Let all boil together about ten minutes.
Then strain it through linen, and stir in a pound of powdered
loaf-sugar and a bottle of champagne, or of any liquor suitable for
punch. Set it again over the fire, and when just ready to boil, remove
it, and pour it into a china bowl or pitcher, to be sent round in
glasses.

WINE JELLY.

Clarify a pound of loaf-sugar, by mixing it with half a pint of water
and the beaten white of an egg, and then boiling and skimming it. Put
an ounce of isinglass (with as much boiling water as will cover it)
into a small sauce-pan, and set it in hot coals till the isinglass is
thoroughly dissolved. Then when the syrup has been taken from the fire,
mix the melted isinglass with it, add a quart of white wine and stir in
a table-spoonful or a spoonful and a half of old Jamaica spirits. Stir
the mixture very hard, and pour it into a mould. When it has congealed,
wrap a cloth dipped in warm water round the outside of the mould; turn
out the jelly, and eat it with ice-cream.

BISHOP.

The day before you want to use the liquor toast four large oranges till
they are of a pale brown. You may do them either before a clear fire or
in the oven of a stove. Dissolve half a pound of loaf-sugar in half a
pint of claret. When the oranges are roasted, quarter them without
peeling, lay them in the bottom of a bowl or a tureen, add two beaten
nutmegs and some cinnamon, and pour on them the wine and sugar. Cover
it, and let it stand till next day. Then having heated the remainder of
the bottle of claret till it nearly boils, pour it into a pitcher, and
having first pressed and mashed the pieces of orange with a spoon to
bring out the juice, put them with the sugar, &c. into a cloth, and
strain the liquid into the hot claret. Serve it warm in large glasses.

MULLED WINE.

Boil together in a pint of water two beaten nutmegs, a handful of
broken cinnamon, and a handful of cloves slightly pounded. When the
liquid is reduced to one half, strain it into a quart of port wine,
which must be set on hot coals, and taken off as soon as it comes to a
boil. Serve it up hot in a pitcher with little glass cups round it, and
a plate of fresh rusk.

MULLED CIDER.

Allow six eggs to a quart of cider. Put a handful of whole cloves into
the cider, and boil it. While it is boiling, beat the eggs in a large
pitcher; adding to them as much sugar as will make the cider very
sweet. By the time the cider boils, the eggs will be sufficiently
light. Pour the boiling liquor on the beaten egg, and continue to pour
the mixture backwards and forwards from one pitcher to another, till it
has a fine froth on it. Then pour it warm into your glasses, and grate
some nutmeg over each.

Port wine may be mulled in the same manner.

EGG NOGG.

Beat separately the yolks and whites of six eggs. Stir the yolks into a
quart of rich milk, or thin cream, and add half a pound of sugar. Then
mix in half a pint of rum or brandy. Flavour it with a grated nutmeg.
Lastly, stir in gently the beaten white of an egg.

It should be mixed in a china bowl.

SANGAREE.

Mix in a pitcher or in tumblers one-third of wine, ale, or porter, with
two-thirds of water either warm or cold. Stir in sufficient loaf-sugar
to sweeten it, and grate some nutmeg into it.

By adding to it lemon juice, you may make what is called negus.


TURKISH SHERBET.

Having washed a fore-quarter or knuckle of veal, and cracked the bones,
put it on to boil with two quarts and a pint of water. Let it boil till
the liquid is reduced to one quart, and skim it well. Then strain it,
and set it away to cool. When quite cold, mix with it a pint and a half
of clear lemon juice, and a pint and a half of capillaire or clear
sugar-syrup. If you have no capillaire ready, boil two pounds of
loaf-sugar in a pint and a half of water, clearing it with the beaten
white of an egg mixed into the sugar and water before boiling. Serve
the sherbet cold or iced, in glass mugs at the dessert, or offer it as
a refreshment at any other time.

Sherbet may be made of the juice of various sorts of fruit.

BOTTLED SMALL BEER.

Take a quart bottle of the very best brisk porter, and mix it with four
quarts of water, a pint of molasses, and a table-spoonful of ginger.
Bottle it, and see that the corks are of the very best kind. It will be
fit for use in three or four days.

TO KEEP LEMON JUICE.

Powder a pound of the best loaf-sugar; put it into a bowl, and strain
over it a pint of lemon juice; stirring it well with a silver spoon
till the sugar has entirely melted. Then bottle it, sealing the corks;
and keep it in a dry place.

ESSENCE OF LEMON-PEEL.

Rub lumps of loaf-sugar on fine ripe lemons till the yellow rind is all
grated off; scraping up the sugar in a tea-spoon, and putting it on a
plate as you proceed. When you have enough, press it down into a little
glass or china jar, and cover it closely. This will be found very fine
to flavour puddings and cakes.

Prepare essence of orange-peel in the same manner.

CIDER VINEGAR.

Take six quarts of rye meal; stir and mix it well into a barrel of
strong hard cider of the best kind; and then add a gallon of whiskey.
Cover the cask, (leaving the bung loosely in it,) set it in the part of
your yard that is most exposed to the sun and air; and in the course of
four weeks (if the weather is warm and dry) you will have good vinegar
fit for use. When you draw off a gallon or more, replenish the cask
with the same quantity of cider, and add about a pint of whiskey. You
may thus have vinegar constantly at hand for common purposes.

The cask should have iron hoops.

A very strong vinegar may be made by mixing cider and strained honey,
(allowing a pound of honey to a gallon of cider,) and letting it stand
five or six months. This vinegar is so powerful that for common
purposes it should be diluted with a little water.

Vinegar may be made in the same manner of sour wine.

WHITE VINEGAR.

Put into a cask a mixture composed of five gallons of water, two
gallons of whiskey, and a quart of strong yeast, stirring in two pounds
of powdered charcoal. Place it where it will ferment properly, leaving
the bung loose till the fermentation is over, but covering the hole
slightly to keep out the dust and insects. At the end of four months
draw it off, and you will have a fine vinegar, as clear and colourless
as water.

SUGAR VINEGAR.

To every gallon of water allow a pound of the best brown sugar, and a
jill or more of strong yeast. Mix the sugar and water together, and
boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. Then pour it into a tub;
and when it cools to lukewarm heat, put into it the yeast spread on
pieces of toast. Let it work two days; then put it into an iron-hooped
cask, and set it in a sunny place for five months, leaving the bung
loose, but keeping the bung-hole covered. In five months it will be
good clear vinegar, and you may bottle it for use.

A cask that has not contained vinegar before, should have a quart of
boiling hot vinegar poured into it, shaken about frequently till cold,
and allowed to stand some hours.



PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK.


CHICKEN JELLY.

Take a large chicken, cut it up into very small pieces, bruise the
bones, and put the whole into a stone jar with a cover that will make
it water tight. Set the jar in a large kettle of boiling water, and
keep it boiling for three hours. Then strain off the liquid, and season
it slightly with salt, pepper, and mace; or with loaf-sugar and lemon
juice, according to the taste of the person for whom it is intended.

Return the fragments of the chicken to the jar, and set it again in a
kettle of boiling water. You will find that you can collect nearly as
much jelly by the second boiling.

This jelly may be made of an old fowl.

BREAD JELLY.

Measure a quart of boiling water, and set it away to get cold. Take
one-third of a six cent loaf of bread, slice it, pare off the crust,
and toast the crumb nicely of a light brown. Then put it into the
boiled water, set it on hot coals in a covered pan, and boil it gently,
till you find by putting some in a spoon to cool, that the liquid has
become a jelly. Strain it through a thin cloth, and set it away for
use. When it is to be taken, warm a tea-cupful, sweeten it with sugar,
and add a little grated lemon-peel.

ARROW ROOT JELLY.

Mix three table-spoonfuls of arrow root powder in a tea-cup of water
till quite smooth, cover it, and let it stand a quarter of an hour. Put
the yellow peel of a lemon into a skillet with a pint of water, and let
it boil till reduced to one half. Then take out the lemon-peel, and
pour in the dissolved arrow root, (while the water is still boiling;)
add sufficient white sugar to sweeten it well, and let it boil together
for five or six minutes. It may be seasoned (if thought necessary) with
two tea-spoonfuls of wine, and some grated nutmeg.

It may be boiled in milk instead of water, or in wine and water,
according to the state of the person for whom it is wanted.

RICE JELLY.

Having picked and washed a quarter of a pound of rice, mix it with half
a pound of loaf-sugar, and just sufficient water to cover it. Boil it
till it becomes a glutinous mass; then strain it; season it with
whatever may be thought proper; and let it stand to cool.

PORT WINE JELLY.

Melt in a little warm water an ounce of isinglass; stir it into a pint
of port wine, adding two ounces of sugar candy, an ounce of gum arabic,
and half a nutmeg grated. Mix all well, and boil it ten minutes; or
till every thing is thoroughly dissolved. Then strain it through
muslin, and set it away to get cold.

SAGO.

Wash the sago through two or three water, and then let it soak for two
or three hours. To a tea-cupful of sago allow a quart of water and some
of the yellow peel of a lemon. Simmer it till all the grains look
transparent. Then add as much wine and nutmeg as may be proper, and
give it another boil altogether. If seasoning is not advisable, the
sago may be boiled in milk instead of water, and eaten plain.

TAPIOCA.

Wash the tapioca well, and let it steep for five or six hours, changing
the water three times. Simmer it in the last water till quite clear,
then season it with sugar and wine, or lemon juice.

GRUEL.

Allow three large table-spoonfuls of oatmeal or Indian meal to a quart
of water. Put the meal into a large bowl, and add the water, a little
at a time, mixing and bruising the meal with the back of a spoon. As
you proceed, pour off the liquid into another bowl, every time, before
adding fresh water to the meal, till you have used it all up. Then boil
the mixture for twenty minutes, stirring it all the while; add a little
salt. Then strain the gruel and sweeten it. A piece of butter may be
stirred into it; and, if thought proper, a little wine and nutmeg. It
should be taken warm.

OATMEAL GRUEL.

Put four table-spoonfuls of the best grits (oatmeal coarsely ground)
into a pint of boiling water. Let it boil gently, and stir it often,
till it becomes as thick as you wish it. Then strain it, and add to it
while warm, butter, wine, nutmeg, or whatever is thought proper to
flavour it.

If you make the gruel of fine oatmeal, sift it, mix it first to a thick
batter with a little cold water, and then put it into the sauce-pan of
boiling water. Stir it all the time it is boiling, lifting the spoon
gently up and down, and letting the gruel fall slowly back again into
the pan.

PANADA.

Having pared off the crust, boil some slices of bread in a quart of
water for about five minutes. Then take out the bread, and beat it
smooth in a deep dish, mixing in a little of the water it has boiled
in; and mix it with a bit of fresh butter, and sugar and nutmeg to your
taste. Another way is to grate some bread, or to grate or pound a few
crackers. Pour on boiling water, beat it well, and add sugar and
nutmeg.

BARLEY WATER.

Wash clean some barley, (either pearl or common) and to two ounces of
barley allow a quart of water. Put it into a sauce-pan, adding, if you
choose, an equal quantity of stoned raisins; or some lemon-peel and
sugar; or some liquorice root cut up. Let it boil slowly till the
liquid is reduced one half. Then strain it off, and sweeten it.

GROUND RICE MILK.

Mix in a bowl two table-spoonfuls of ground rice, with sufficient milk
to make a thin batter. Then stir it gradually into a pint of milk and
boil it with sugar, lemon-peel or nutmeg.

BEEF TEA.

Cut a pound of the lean of fresh juicy beef into small thin slices, and
sprinkle them with a very little salt. Put the meat into a wide-mouthed
glass or stone jar closely corked, and set it in a kettle or pan of
water, which must be made to boil, and kept boiling hard round the jar
for an hour or more. Then take out the jar and strain the essence of
the beef into a bowl. Chicken tea may be made in the same manner.

MUTTON BROTH.

Cut off all the fat from a loin of mutton, and to each pound of the
lean allow a quart of water. Season it with a little salt and some
shred parsley, and put in some large pieces of the crust of bread. Boil
it slowly for two or three hours, skimming it carefully.

Beef, veal, or chicken broth may be made in the same manner.

Vegetables may be added if approved. Also barley or rice.

MUTTON BROTH MADE QUICKLY.

Cut three chops from the best part of a neck of mutton, and remove the
fat and skin. Beat the meat on both sides and slice it thin. Put into a
small sauce-pan with a pint of water, a little salt, and some crust of
bread cut into pieces. You may add a little parsley, and a small onion
sliced thin. Cover the sauce-pan, and set it over the fire. Boil it
fast, skim it, and in half an hour it should be ready for use.

WINE WHEY.

Boil a pint of milk; and when it rises to the top of the sauce-pan,
pour in a large glass of sherry or Madeira. It will be the better for
adding a glass of currant wine also. Let it again boil up, and then
take the sauce-pan off the fire, and set it aside to stand for a few
minutes, but do not stir it. Then remove the curd, (if it has
completely formed,) and pour the clear whey into a bowl and sweeten it.

When wine is considered too heating, the whey may be made by turning
the milk with lemon juice.

RENNET WHEY.

Wash a small bit of rennet about two inches square, in cold water, to
get off the salt. Put it into a tea-cup and pour on it sufficient
lukewarm water to cover it. Let it stand all night, and in the morning
stir the rennet water into a quart pitcher of warm milk. Cover it, and
set it near the fire till a firm curd is formed. Pour off the whey from
it, and it will be found an excellent and cooling drink. The curd may
be eaten (though not by a sick person) with wine, sugar, and nutmeg.

CALF’S FEET BROTH.

Boil two calf’s feet in two quarts of water, till the liquid is reduced
one half, and the meat has dropped to pieces. Then strain it into a
deep dish or pan, and set it by to get cold. When it has congealed,
take all the fat carefully off; put a tea-cupful of the jelly into a
sauce-pan, and set it on hot coals. When it has nearly boiled, stir in
by degrees the beaten yolk of an egg, and then take it off immediately.
You may add to it a little sugar, and some grated lemon-peel and
nutmeg.

CHICKEN BROTH AND PANADA.

Cut up a chicken, season it with a very little salt, and put it into
three quarts of water. Let it simmer slowly till the flesh drops to
pieces. You may make chicken panada or gruel of the same fowl, by
taking out the white meat as soon as it is tender, mincing it fine, and
then pounding it in a mortar, adding as you pound it, sufficient of the
chicken water to moisten the paste. You may thin it with water till it
becomes liquid enough to drink. Then put it into a sauce-pan and boil
it gently a few minutes. Taken in small quantities, it will be found
very nutritious. You may add to it a little grated lemon-peel and
nutmeg.

VEGETABLE SOUP.

Take a white onion, a turnip, a pared potato, and a head of celery, or
a large tea-spoonful of celery seed. Put the vegetables whole into a
quart of water, (adding a little salt,) and boil it slowly till reduced
to a pint. Make a slice of nice toast; lay it in the bottom of a bowl,
and strain the soup over it.

ONION SOUP.

Put half a pound of the best fresh butter into a stew-pan on the fire,
and let it boil till it has done making a noise; then have ready twelve
large onions peeled and cut small; throw them into the butter, add a
little salt, and stew them a quarter of an hour. Then dredge in a
little flour, and stir the whole very hard; and in five minutes pour in
a quart of boiling water, and some of the upper crust of bread, cut
small. Let the soup boil ten minutes longer, stirring it often; and
after you take it from the fire, stir in the yolks of two beaten eggs,
and serve it up immediately,

In France this soup is considered a fine restorative after any unusual
fatigue. Instead of butter, the onions may be boiled in veal or chicken
broth.

TOAST AND WATER.

Toast some slices of bread very nicely, without allowing them to burn
or blacken. Then put them into a pitcher, and fill it up with boiling
water. Let it stand till it is quite cold; then strain it, and put it
into a decanter. Another way of preparing toast and water is to put the
toasted bread into a mug and pour cold water on it. Cover it closely,
and let it infuse for at least an hour. Drink it cold.

APPLE WATER.

Pare and slice a fine juicy apple; pour boiling water over it, cover
it, and let it stand till cold.

TAMARIND WATER.

Put tamarinds into a pitcher or tumbler till it is one-third full; then
fill it up with cold water, cover it, and let it infuse for a quarter
of an hour or more.

Currant jelly or cranberry juice mixed with water makes a pleasant
drink for an invalid.

MOLASSES POSSETS.

Put into a sauce-pan a pint of the best West India molasses; a
tea-spoonful of powdered white ginger; and a quarter of a pound of
fresh butter. Set it on hot coals, and simmer it slowly for half an
hour; stirring it frequently. Do not let it come to a boil. Then stir
in the juice of two lemons, or two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; cover
the pan, and let it stand by the fire five minutes longer. This is good
for a cold. Some of it may be taken warm at once, and the remainder
kept at hand for occasional use.

It is the preparation absurdly called by the common people a stewed
quaker.

Half a pint of strained honey mixed cold with the juice of a lemon, and
a table-spoonful of sweet oil, is another remedy for a cold; a
tea-spoonful or two to be taken whenever the cough is troublesome.

FLAX-SEED LEMONADE.

To a large table-spoonful of flax-seed allow a tumbler and a half of
cold water. Boil them together till the liquid becomes very sticky.
Then strain it hot over a quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar candy,
and an ounce of pulverized gum arabic. Stir it till quite dissolved,
and squeeze into it the juice of a lemon.

This mixture has frequently been found an efficacious remedy for a
cold; taking a wine-glass of it as often as the cough is troublesome.

COCOA.

Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of good cocoa (the chocolate nut before
it is ground) and one quart of water. Cover it, and as soon as it has
come to a boil, set it on coals by the side of the fire, to simmer for
an hour or more. Take it hot with dry toast.

COCOA SHELLS.

These can be procured at the principal grocers and confectioners, or at
a chocolate manufactory. They are the thin shells that envelope the
chocolate kernel, and are sold at a low price; a pound contains a very
large quantity. Soak them in water for five or six hours or more, (it
will be better to soak them all night,) and then boil them in the same
water. They should boil two hours. Strain the liquid when done, and let
it be taken warm.

RAW EGG.

Break a fresh egg into a saucer, and mix a little sugar with it; also,
if approved, a small quantity of wine. Beat the whole to a strong
froth. It is considered a restorative.

SODA WATER.

To forty grains of carbonate of soda, add thirty grains of tartaric
acid in small crystals. Fill a soda bottle with spring water, put in
the mixture, and cork it instantly with a well-fitting cork.

SEIDLITZ POWDERS.

Fold in a white paper one drachm of Rochelle salts. In a blue paper a
mixture of twenty grains of tartaric acid, and twenty-five grains of
carbonate of soda. They should all be pulverized very fine. Put the
contents of the white paper into a tumbler not quite half full of cold
water, and stir it till dissolved. Then put the mixture from the blue
paper into another tumbler with the same quantity of water, and stir
that also. When the powders are dissolved in both tumblers, pour the
first into the other, and it will effervesce immediately. Drink it
quickly while foaming.

BITTERS.

Take two ounces of gentian root, an ounce of Virginia snake root, an
ounce of the yellow paring of orange peel, and half a drachm of
cochineal. Steep these ingredients, for a week or more, in a quart of
Madeira or sherry wine, or brandy. When they are thoroughly infused,
strain and filter the liquor, and bottle it for use. This is considered
a good tonic, taken in a small cordial glass about noon.

ESSENCE OF PEPPERMINT.

Mix an ounce of oil of peppermint with a pint of alcohol. Then colour
it by putting in some leaves of green mint. Let it stand till the
colour is a fine green; then filter it through blotting paper. Drop it
on sugar when you take it.

Essence of pennyroyal, mint, cinnamon, cloves, &c. may all be prepared
in the same manner by mixing a portion of the essential oil with a
little alcohol.

You may obtain liquid camphor by breaking up and dissolving a lump in
white brandy or spirit of wine.

LAVENDER COMPOUND.

Fill a quart bottle with lavender blossoms freshly gathered, and put in
loosely; then pour in as much of the best brandy as it will contain.
Let it stand a fortnight, and then strain it. Afterwards, mix with it
of powdered cloves, mace, nutmeg and cochineal, a quarter of an ounce
of each; and cork it up for use in small bottles. When taken, a little
should be dropped on a lump of sugar.

LEAD WATER.

Mix two table-spoonfuls of extract of lead with a bottle of rain or
river water. Then add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and shake it well.

[Footnote: These remedies are all very simple; but the author _knows_
them to have been efficacious whenever tried.]

REMEDY FOR A BURN.

After immediately applying sweet oil, scrape the inside of a raw
potato, and lay some of it on the place, securing it with a rag. In a
short time put on fresh potato, and repeat this application very
frequently. It will give immediate ease, and draw out the fire. Of
course, if the burn is bad, it is best to send for a physician.

FOR CHILBLAINS.

Dip the feet every night and morning in cold water, withdrawing them in
a minute or two, and drying them by rubbing them very hard with a
coarse towel. To put them immediately into a pail of brine brought from
a pickle tub is another excellent remedy when feet are found to be
frosted.

FOR CORNS.

Mix together a little Indian meal and cold water, till it is about the
consistence of thick mush. Then bind it on the corn by wrapping a small
slip of thin rag round the toe. It will not prevent you from wearing
your shoe and stocking. In two or three hours take it off, and you will
find the corn much softened. Cut off as much of it as is soft with a
penknife or scissors. Then put on a fresh poultice, and repeat it till
the corn is entirely levelled, as it will be after a few regular
applications of the remedy; which will be found successful whenever the
corn returns. There is no permanent cure for them.

WARTS.

To remove the hard callous horny warts which sometimes appear on the
hands of children, touch the wart carefully with a new pen dipped
slightly in aqua-fortis. It will give no pain; and after repeating it a
few times, the wart will be found so loose as to come off by rubbing it
with the finger.

RING-WORMS.

Rub mercurial ointment on the ring-worm previous to going to bed, and
do not wash it off till morning. It will effect a cure if persevered
in; sometimes in less than a week.

MUSQUITO BITES.

Salt wetted into a sort of paste, with a little vinegar, and plastered
on the bite, will immediately allay the pain; and if not rubbed, no
mark will be seen next day. It is well to keep salt and vinegar always
in a chamber that is infested with musquitoes. It is also good for the
sting of a wasp or bee; and for the bite of any venomous animal, if
applied immediately. It should be left on till it becomes dry, and then
renewed.

ANTIDOTE FOR LAUDANUM.

When so large a quantity of laudanum has been swallowed as to produce
dangerous effects, the fatal drowsiness has been prevented when all
other remedies have failed, by administering a cup of the strongest
possible coffee. The patient has revived and recovered, and no ill
effects have followed.

GREEN OINTMENT.

Take two or three large handfuls of the fresh-gathered leaves of the
Jamestown weed, (called Apple Peru in New England,) and pound it in a
mortar till you have extracted the juice. Then put the juice into a tin
sauce-pan, mixed with sufficient lard to make a thick salve. Stew them
together ten or fifteen minutes, and then pour the mixture into
gallipots and cover it closely. It is excellent to rub on chilblains,
and other inflammatory external swellings, applying it several times a
day.

TO STOP BLOOD.

For a prick with a pin, or a slight cut, nothing will more effectually
stop the bleeding than old cobwebs compressed into a lump and applied
to the wound, or bound on it with a rag. A scrap of cotton wadding is
also good for stopping blood.



PERFUMERY, ETC.


COLOGNE WATER.

Procure at a druggists, one drachm of oil of lavender, the same
quantity of oil of lemon, of oil of rosemary, and of oil of cinnamon;
with two drachms of oil of bergamot, all mixed in the same phial, which
should be a new one. Shake the oils well, and pour them into a pint of
spirits of wine. Cork the bottle tightly, shake it hard, and it will be
fit for immediate use; though it improves by keeping. You may add to
the oils, if you choose, ten drops of the tincture of musk, or ten
drops of extract of ambergris.

For very fine cologne water, mix together in a new phial oil of lemon,
two drachms; oil of bergamot, two drachms; oil of lavender, two
drachms; oil of cedrat, one drachm; tincture of benzoin, three drachms;
neroli, ten drops; ambergris, ten drops; attar of roses, two drops.
Pour the mixture into a pint of spirits of wine; cork and shake the
bottle, and set it away for use.

Another receipt for cologne water is to mix with a pint of alcohol,
sixty drops or two large tea-spoonfuls of orange-flower water, and the
same quantity of the essential oils of lemon, lavender, and bergamot.

LAVENDER WATER.

Mix two ounces of essential oil of lavender, and two drachms of essence
of ambergris, with a pint of spirits of wine; cork the bottle, and
shake it hard every day for a fortnight.

HUNGARY WATER.

Mix together one ounce of oil of rosemary and two drachms of essence of
ambergris; add them to a pint of spirits of wine. Shake it daily for a
month, and then transfer it to small bottles.

ROSE VINEGAR.

Fill a stone or china jar with fresh rose leaves put in loosely. Then
pour on them as much of the best white wine vinegar as the jar will
hold. Cover it, and set it in the sun, or in some other warm place for
three weeks. Then strain it through a flannel bag, and bottle it for
use, This vinegar will he found very fine for salads, or for any nice
purposes.

THIEVES’ VINEGAR.

Take a large handful of lavender blossoms, and the same quantity of
sage, mint, rue, wormwood and rosemary. Chop and mix them well. Put
them into a jar, with half an ounce of camphor that has been dissolved
in a little alcohol, and pour in three quarts of strong clear vinegar.
Keep the jar for two or three weeks in the hot sun, and at night plunge
it into a box of heated sand. Afterwards strain and bottle the liquid,
putting into each bottle a clove of garlic sliced. To have it very
clear, after it has been bottled for a week, you should pour it off
carefully from the sediment, and filter it through blotting paper. Then
wash the bottles, and return the vinegar to them. It should be kept
very tightly corked. It is used for sprinkling about in sick-rooms; and
also in close damp oppressive weather. Inhaling the odour from a small
bottle will frequently prevent faintness in a crowd.

It is best to make it in June.

This vinegar is so called from an old tradition, that during the
prevalence of the plague in London the composition was invented by four
thieves, who found it a preservative from contagion; and were by that
means enabled to remain in the city and exercise their profession to
great advantage, after most of the inhabitants had fled.

OIL OF FLOWERS.

A French process for obtaining essential oils from flowers or herbs has
been described as follows:—Take carded cotton, or split wadding and
steep it in some pure Florence oil, such as is quite clear and has no
smell. Then place a layer of this cotton in the bottom of a deep china
dish, or in an earthen pipkin. Cover it with a thick layer of fresh
rose leaves, or the leaves of sweet pink, jasmine, wall-flower,
tuberose, magnolia blossoms, or any other odoriferous flower or plant
from which you wish to obtain the perfume. Spread over the
flower-leaves another layer of cotton that has been steeped in oil.
Afterwards a second layer of flowers, and repeat them alternately till
the vessel is quite full. Cover it closely, and let it stand in the sun
for a week. Then throw away the flower-leaves, carefully press out the
oil from the cotton, and put it into a small bottle for use. The oil
will be found to have imbibed the odour of the flowers.

Keep the scented cotton to perfume your clothes-presses.

BALM OF GILEAD OIL.

Put loosely into a bottle as many balm of Gilead flowers as will come
up to a third part of its height; then nearly fill up the bottle with
sweet oil, which should be of the best quality. Let it infuse (shaking
it occasionally) for several days, and it will then be fit for use. It
is considered a good remedy for bruises of the skin; also for cuts,
burns, and scalds that are not very bad, and should be applied
immediately,—by wetting a soft rag with it; renewing it frequently,

LIP SALVE.

Put into a wide-mouthed bottle four ounces of the best olive oil, with
one ounce of the small parts of alkanet root. Stop up the bottle, and
set it in the sun, (shaking it often,) till you find the liquid of a
beautiful crimson. Then strain off the oil very clear from the alkanet
root, put it into an earthen pipkin, and add to it an ounce of white
wax, and an ounce and a half of the best mutton suet, which has been
previously clarified, or boiled and skimmed. Set the mixture on the
embers of coals, and melt it slowly: stirring it well. After it has
simmered slowly far a little while, take it off; and while still hot,
mix with it a few drops of oil of roses, or of oil of neroli, or
tincture of musk.

COLD CREAM.

Cut very fine a drachm of white wax and a drachm of spermaceti. Put it
into a small sauce-pan with one ounce of oil of sweet almonds, and mix
them well together. Set it on hot coals, and as soon as it has boiled
take it off, and stir in an ounce of orange-flower or rose-water. Beat
it very hard, and then put it into gallipots.

SOFT POMATUM.

Soak half a pound of fresh lard and a quarter of a pound of beef marrow
in water for two or three days; squeezing and pressing it every day,
and changing the water. Afterwards drain off the water, and put the
lard and marrow into a sieve to dry. Then transfer it to a jar, and set
the jar into a pot of boiling water. When the mixture is melted, put it
into a basin, and beat it with two spoonfuls of brandy. Then drain off
the brandy, perfume the pomatum by mixing with it any scented essence
that you please, and tie it up in gallipots.

COSMETIC PASTE.

Take a quarter of a pound of Castile soap, and cut it into small
pieces. Then, put it into a tin or porcelain sauce-pan, with just water
enough to moisten it well, and set it on hot coals. Let it simmer till
it is entirely dissolved; stirring it till it becomes a smooth paste,
and thickening it with Indian meal, (which even in a raw state is
excellent for the hands.) Then take it from the fire, and when cool
scent it with rose-water, or with any fragrant essence you please. Beat
and stir it hard with a silver spoon, and when it is thoroughly mixed
put it into little pots with covers.

ACID SALT.

This is the composition commonly, but erroneously called salt of lemon,
and is excellent for removing ink and other stains from the hands, and
for taking ink spots out of white clothes. Pound together in a marble
mortar an ounce of salt of sorrel, and an ounce of the best cream of
tartar, mixing them thoroughly. Then, put it in little wooden boxes or
covered gallipots, and rub it on your hands when they are stained,
washing them in cold water, and using the acid salt instead of soap; a
very small quantity will immediately remove the stain. In applying it
to linen or muslin that is spotted with ink or fruit juice, hold the
stained part tightly stretched over a cup or bowl of boiling water.
Then with your finger rub on the acid salt till the stain disappears.
It must always be done before the article is washed.

This mixture costs about twenty-five cents, and the above quantity (if
kept dry) will be sufficient for a year or more.

Ink stains may frequently be taken out of white clothes by rubbing on
(before they go to the wash) some bits of cold tallow picked from the
bottom of a mould candle; Leave the tallow sticking on in a lump, and
when the article comes from the wash, it will generally be found that
the spot has disappeared. This experiment is so easy and so generally
successful that it is always worth trying. When it fails, it is in
consequence of some peculiarity in the composition of the ink.

SWEET JARS.

Take a china jar, and put into it three handfuls of fresh damask
rose-leaves; three of sweet pinks, three of wall-flowers, and stock
gilly-flowers, and equal proportions of any other fragrant flowers that
you can procure. Place them in layers; strewing fine salt thickly
between each layer, and mixing with them an ounce of sliced orris root.

You may fill another jar with equal quantities of lavender, knotted
marjoram, rosemary, lemon thyme, balm of Gilead, lemon-peel, and
smaller quantities of laurel leaves and mint; and some sliced orris
root. You may mix with the herbs, (which must all be chopped,) cloves,
cinnamon, and sliced nutmeg; strewing salt between the layers.

Flowers, herbs, and spice may all be mixed in the same jar; adding
always some orris root. Every thing that is put in should be perfectly
free from damp.

The jar should be kept closely covered, except when the cover is
occasionally removed for the purpose of diffusing the scent through the
room.

SCENTED BAGS.

Take a quarter of a pound of coriander seeds, a quarter of a pound of
orris root, a quarter of a pound of aromatic calamus, a quarter of a
pound of damask rose leaves, two ounces of lavender blossoms, half an
ounce of mace, half an ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of
cloves, and two drachms of musk-powder. Beat them all separately in a
mortar, and then mix them well together. Make small silk or satin bags;
fill each with a portion of the mixture, and sew them closely all
round. Lay them among your clothes in the drawers.

VIOLET PERFUME.

Drop twelve drops of genuine oil of rhodium on a lump of loaf-sugar.
Then pound the sugar in a marble mortar with two ounces of orris root
powder. This will afford an excellent imitation of the scent of
violets. If you add more oil of rhodium, it will produce a rose
perfume. Sew up the powder in little silk bags, or keep it in a tight
box.

DURABLE INK.

Take, when empty, one of the little bottles that has contained
indelible ink, such as is sold in cases, and wash and rinse it clean.
Put into it half an inch of lunar caustic; fill it up with good
vinegar, and cork it tightly. This is the marking ink.

Prepare the larger bottle that has contained the liquid used for the
first wash, by making it quite clean. Take a large tea-spoonful of salt
of tartar, and a lump of gum arabic the size of a hickory nut. Put them
into the wash bottle, and fill it up with clear rain water, Cork both
bottles tightly, and set them for two days in the sun. The liquids will
then be fit for use.

Linen cannot be marked well with durable ink unless the weather is
clear and dry. Dip a camel’s hair pencil in the large bottle that
contains the gum liquid, and wash over with it a small space on a
corner of the linen, about large enough to contain the name. Dry it in
the sun, and let it alone till next day. Then take a very good pen,
acid with the ink from the smallest bottle, write the name you intend,
on the place that has been prepared by the first liquid. This also must
be dried in the sun. See that the bottles are always well corked, and
keep them in a covered box.

After the linen is dried, iron it before you write on it.

ANOTHER DURABLE INK.

For the marking liquid—rub together in a small mortar five scruples of
lunar caustic with one drachm of gum arabic, one scruple of sap-green
and one ounce of rain water.

For wetting the linen—mix together one ounce of salt of soda, two
ounces of boiling water, and a table-spoonful of powdered gum arabic.

TO KEEP PEARL-ASH.

Take three ounces of pearl-ash, and put it into a clean black bottle
with a pint and a half (not more) of soft water. The proportion is an
ounce of pearl-ash to half a pint of water. Cork it very tightly, shake
it, and it will be fit for use as soon as all the pearl-ash is
dissolved. A table-spoonful of this liquid is equal to a small
tea-spoonful of pearl-ash in the lump or powder. Keeping it ready
dissolved will be found very convenient.

ALMOND PASTE.

Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet, almonds, and a quarter of a pound
of bitter ones, and beat them in a mortar to a smooth paste—adding by
degrees a jill of rose or orange-flower water. Then beat in, gradually,
half a pound of clear strained honey. When the whole is well
incorporated, put it into gallipots, pouring on the top of each some
orange-flower or rose-water. Keep it closely covered. This is a
celebrated cosmetic for the hands.



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.


MINCED OYSTERS.

Take fifty fine large oysters, and mince them raw. Chop also four or
five small pickled cucumbers, and a bunch of parsley. Grate about two
tea-cupfuls of stale bread-crumbs, and beat up the yolks of four eggs.
Mix the whole together in a thick batter, seasoning it with cayenne and
powdered mace; and with a little salt if the oysters are fresh. Have
ready a pound of lard, and melt in the frying-pan enough of it to fry
the oysters well. If the lard is in too small a quantity they will be
flat and tough. When the lard is boiling hot in the pan, put in about a
table-spoonful at a time of the oyster-mixture, and fry it in the form
of small fritters; turning them so as to brown on both sides. Serve
them up hot, and eat them with small bread rolls.

STEWED BLACK FISH.

Flour a deep dish, and lay in the bottom a piece of butter rolled in
flour. Then sprinkle it with a mixture of parsley, sweet marjoram, and
green onion; all chopped fine. Take your black fish and rub it inside
and outside with a mixture of cayenne, salt, and powdered cloves and
mace. Place skewers across the dish, and lay the fish upon them. Then
pour in a little wine, and sufficient water to stew the fish. Set the
dish in a moderate oven, and let it cook slowly for an hour.

Shad or rock fish may be dressed in the same manner.

FRIED SMELTS.

These little fish are considered extremely fine. Before they are
cooked, cut off the heads and tails. Sprinkle the smelts with flour,
and have ready in a frying pan over the fire plenty of fresh lard or
butter. When it boils, put in the fish and fry them.

BROILED SWEET-BREADS.

Split open and skewer the sweet-breads; season them with pepper and
salt, and with powdered mace. Broil them on a gridiron till thoroughly
done. While they are broiling, prepare some melted butter seasoned with
mace and a little white wine, or mushroom catchup; and have ready some
toast with the crust cut off. Lay the toast in the bottom of a dish;
place the sweet-breads upon it, and pour over them the drawn butter.

PICKLED EGGS.

Boil twelve eggs quite hard, and lay them in cold water; having peeled
off the shells. Then put them whole into a stone jar, with a quarter of
an ounce of whole mace, and the same quantity of cloves; a sliced
nutmeg; a table-spoonful of whole pepper; a small bit of ginger; and a
peach leaf. Fill up the jar with boiling vinegar; cover it closely that
the eggs may cool slowly. When they are cold, tie up the jar; covering
the cork with leather. After it has stood three days pour off the
pickle, boil it up again, and return it boiling hot to the eggs and
spice. They will be fit for use in a fortnight.

GUMBO SOUP.

Take four pounds of the lean of a fresh round of beef and cut the meat
into small pieces, avoiding carefully all the fat. Season the meat with
a little pepper and salt, and put it on to boil with three quarts and a
pint of water (not more.) Boil it slowly and skim it well. When no more
scum rises, put in half a peck of ochras, peeled and sliced, and half a
peck of tomatas cut in quarters. Boil it slowly till the ochras and
tomatas are entirely dissolved, and the meat all to rags. Then strain
it through a cullender, and send it to table with slices of dry toast.
This soup cannot be made in less than seven or eight hours. If you dine
at two, you must put on the meat to boil at six or seven in the
morning. It should be as thick as a jelly.

SHREWSBURY CAKES.

Rub three quarters of a pound of butter into two pounds of sifted
flour, and mix in half a pound of powdered sugar, and half a pound of
currants, washed and dried. Wet it to a stiff paste with rich milk.
Roll it out, and cut it into cakes. Lay them on buttered baking sheets,
and put them into a moderate oven.

RICE FLUMMERY.

To two quarts of milk allow half a pound of ground rice. Take out one
pint of the milk, and mix the rice gradually with it into a batter;
making it quite smooth and free from lumps. Put the three pints of milk
into a skillet, (with a bunch of peach leaves or a few peach-kernels.)
and let it come to a boil. Then while it is still boiling, stir in by
degrees the rice batter, taking care not to have it lumpy; add sugar,
mace, and rose brandy to your taste; or you may flavour it with a small
tea-spoonful of oil of lemon. When it has boiled sufficiently, and is
quite thick, strain it, and put it into a mould to congeal. Make a rich
boiled custard, (flavoured in the same manner,) and send it to table in
a pitcher to eat with the flummery. Both should be cold. If you mould
it in tea-cups, turn it out on a deep dish, and pour the custard round
it.

APPLE BUTTER WITHOUT CIDER.

To ten gallons of water add six gallons of the best molasses, mixing
them well together. Put it into a large kettle over a good fire; let it
come to a hard boil, and skim it as long as any scum continues to rise.
Then take out half the liquid, and put it into a tub. Have ready eight
bushels of fine sound apples, pared, cored and quartered. Throw them
gradually into the liquid that is still boiling on the fire. Let it
continue to boil hard, and as it thickens, add by degrees the other
half of the molasses and water, (that which has been put into the tub.)
Stir it frequently to prevent its scorching, and to make it of equal
consistence throughout. Boil it ten or twelve hours, continuing to stir
it. At night take it out of the kettle, and set it in tubs to cool;
covering it carefully. Wash out the kettle and wipe it very dry.

Next morning boil the apple butter six or eight hours longer; it should
boil eighteen hours altogether. Half an hour before you take it finally
out, stir in a pound of mixed spice; cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and
nutmeg, all finely powdered. When entirely done, put up the apple
butter in stone or earthen jars. It will keep a year or more.

It can, of course, be made in a smaller quantity than that given in the
above receipt; and also at any time in the winter; fresh cider not
being an ingredient, as in the most usual way of making apple butter.

AN APPLE POT PIE.

Make a paste, allowing a pound of butter, or of chopped suet to two
pounds and a quarter of flour. Have ready a sufficient quantity of fine
juicy acid apples, pared, cored, and sliced. Mix with them brown sugar
enough to sweeten them, a few cloves, and some slips of lemon-peel.
Butter the inside of an iron pot, and line it with some of the paste.
Then put in the apples, interspersing them with thin squares of paste,
and add a very little water. Cover the whole with a thick lid of the
dough, which must be carefully closed round the edges. Pour on water
enough to fill the pot, and let it boil two hours. When done, serve it
up on a large dish, and eat it with butter and sugar.

PUDDING CATCHUP.

Mix together half a pint of noyau; a pint of sherry or other white
wine; the yellow peel of four lemons, pared thin; and half an ounce of
mace. Put the whole into a large bottle, and let it stand for two or
three weeks. Then strain it, and add half a pint of capillaire or
strong sugar syrup; or of Curaçoa. Bottle it, and it will keep two or
three years. It may be used for various sweet dishes, but chiefly for
pudding-sauce mixed with melted butter.

CURAÇOA.

Pound as much dried orange-peel as will make six ounces when done; the
peel of fresh shaddock will be still better; or you may substitute six
drachms of the oil of orange-peel. Put it into a quart of the strongest
and clearest rectified spirit; shake it, let it infuse for a fortnight,
and strain it. Then make a syrup by dissolving a pound of the best
loaf-sugar in a pint of cold water, adding to it the beaten white of an
egg, and boiling and skimming it till the scum ceases to rise. Mix the
syrup with the strained liquor. Let it stand till next day, and then
filter it through white blotting paper fastened to the bottom of a
sieve. Curaçoa is a great improvement to punch; also a table-spoonful
of it in a tumbler of water makes a very refreshing summer drink.

PATENT YEAST.

Boil half a pound of fresh hops in four quarts of water, till the
liquid is reduced to two quarts Strain it, and mix in sufficient wheat
flour to make a thin batter; adding half a pint of strong fresh yeast,
(brewer’s yeast, if it can be procured.) When it is done fermenting,
pour it into a pan, and stir in sufficient Indian meal to make a
moderately stiff dough. Cover it, and set it in a warm place to rise.
When it has become very light, roll it out into a thick sheet, and cut
it into little cakes. Spread them out on a dish, and let them dry
gradually in a cool place where there is no sun. Turn them five or six
times a day while drying; and when they are quite dry, put them into
paper bags, and keep them in a jar or box closely covered, in a place
that is not in the least damp.

When you want the yeast for use, dissolve in a little warm water one or
more of the cakes, (in proportion to the quantity of bread you intend
making,) and when it is quite dissolved, stir it hard, thicken it with
a little flour, cover it, and place it near the fire to rise before you
use it. Then mix it with the flour in the usual manner of preparing
bread.

This is a very convenient way of preserving yeast through the summer,
or of conveying it to a distance.

TO DRY HERBS.

By drying herbs with artificial heat as quickly as possible, you
preserve their scent and flavour much better than when they are dried
slowly by exposing them to the sun and air; a process by which a large
portion of their strength evaporates. All sorts of herbs are in the
greatest perfection just before they begin to flower. Gather them on a
dry day, and place them in an oven, which must not be hot enough to
discolour, scorch, or burn them. When they are quite dry, take them
out, and replace them with others. Pick the leaves from, the stems,
(which may be thrown away,) and put them into bottles or jars; cork
them tightly, and keep them in a dry place. Those that are used in
cookery should be kept in a kitchen closet.

PEACH KERNELS.

When peaches are in season, have in a convenient place an old basket or
something of the sort, in which all the peach stones can be saved; they
are too useful to be thrown away. Then have them carefully cracked, so
as to extract the kernels whole if possible. Spread them out on a dish
for one day. Then, put them into a box or jar, and keep them to use as
bitter almonds; for which they are an excellent substitute in
flavouring custards, creams and cakes. Plum stones are worth saving in
the same manner.

LEMON-PEEL.

Never throw away the rind of a lemon; Keep a wide-mouthed bottle half
full of brandy, and put into it (cut in pieces) all the lemon-rind that
you do not immediately want. As the white part of the rind is of no
use, it will be best to pare off the yellow very thin, and put that
alone into the brandy, which will thus imbibe a very fine lemon
flavour, and may be used for many nice purposes.

TO KEEP TOMATAS.

Take fine ripe tomatas, and wipe them dry, taking care not to break the
skin. Put them, into a stone jar with cold vinegar, adding a small thin
muslin bag filled with mace, whole cloves, and whole peppers. Then cork
the jar tightly with a cork that has been dipped in melted rosin, and
put it away in a dry place. Tomatas pickled in this manner keep
perfectly well and retain their colour. For this purpose use the small
round button tomatas.



ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.


FRENCH GREEN PEA SOUP.

This soup is made without meat. Put into a soup-pot four quarts of
shelled green peas, two large onions sliced, a handful of leaves of
sweet marjoram shred from the stalks, or a handful of sweet basil; or a
mixed handful of both—also, if you like it, a handful of green mint.
Add four quarts of water, and boil the whole slowly till all the peas
are entirely to pieces. Then take off the pot, and mash the peas well
against its sides to extract from them all their flavour. Afterward
strain off the liquid into a clean pot, and add to it a tea-cup full of
the juice of spinach, which you must prepare, while the soup is
boiling, by pounding some spinach in a mortar. This will give the soup
a fine green colour. Then put in a quarter of a pound of the best fresh
butter rolled whole in flour; and add a pint and a half more of shelled
young peas. If you wish the soup very thick, you may allow a quart of
the additional peas. Season it with a very little salt and cayenne; put
it again over the fire, and boil it till the last peas are quite soft,
but not till they go to pieces.

Have ready in a tureen two or three slices of toasted bread cut into
small squares or dice, and pour the soup on it.

This soup, if properly made, will be found excellent, notwithstanding
the absence of meat. It is convenient for fast days; and in the
country, where vegetables can be obtained from the garden, the expense
will be very trifling. What is left may be warmed for the next day.

GIBLET SOUP.

Take three pounds of shin of beef or of neck of mutton. Cut off the
meat and break the bones. Then put the meat with the bones into a
soup-pot, with a tea-spoonful of salt, and three quarts of water. Add a
bunch of sweet marjoram, one of sweet basil, and a quarter of an ounce
of black pepper-corns, all tied in a thin muslin rag; a sliced onion,
and six or eight turnips and carrots, cut small. Let the whole boil
slowly for two or three hours, skimming it well. In the meantime, have
ready two sets of goose-giblets, or four of duck. They must he scalded,
and well washed in warm water. Cut off the bills and split the heads;
and cut the necks and gizzards into mouthfuls. Having taken the meat
and bones out of the soup, put in the giblets, with a head of celery
chopped. Boil it slowly an hour and a half; or more, taking care to
skim it. Make a thickening of an ounce and a half of butter, and a
large table-spoonful of flour, mixed together with a little of the
soup. Then stir it into the pot, adding a large table-spoonful  of
mushroom catchup, and some small force-meat balls, or little dumplings.
Boil the soup half an hour longer. Then send it to table with the
giblets in the tureen.

GUMBO.

Take an equal quantity of young tender ochras, and of ripe tomatas,
(for instance, a quarter of a peck of each.) Chop the ochras fine, and
scald and peel the tomatas. Put them into a stew-pan without any water.
Add a lump of butter, and a very little salt and pepper; and, if you
choose, an onion minced fine. Let it stew steadily for an hour. Then
strain it, and send it to table as soup in a tureen. It should be like
a jelly, and is a favourite New Orleans dish. Eat dry toast with it.

HAM OMELET.

Take six ounces of cold coiled ham, and mince it very fine, adding a
little pepper. Beat separately the whites and yolks of six eggs, and
then mix them together add to them gradually the minced ham. Beat the
whole very hard, and do not let it stand a moment after it is
thoroughly mixed. Have ready some boiling lard in a frying-pan, and put
in the omelet immediately. Fry it about ten minutes or a quarter of an
hour. When done, put it on a hot dish, trim off the edges, and fold it
over in a half moon. Send it to table hot, and covered. It is eaten at
breakfast.

If you wish a soft omelet, (not to fold over,) fry it a shorter time,
and serve it in a deep dish, to be helped with a spoon.

A similar omelet may be made of the lean of a cold smoked tongue.


BATTER PUDDING.

Take a quart of milk, and stir into it gradually eight table spoonfuls
of sifted flour, carefully pressing out all the lumps with the back of
the spoon. Beat eight eggs very light, and add them by degrees to the
milk and flour. Then stir the whole very well together.

Dip your pudding-cloth into boiling water, and then dredge it with
flour. Pour in the pudding, and tie it tightly, leaving room for it to
swell. Put it into a pot full of boiling water, and boil it hard for
two hours. Keep it in the pot till it is time to send it to table.
Serve it up with wine-sauce, butter and sugar, or molasses and cold
butter.

PEACH MANGOES.

Take free-stone peaches of the largest size, (when they are full grown,
but not quite ripe,) and lay them in salt and water for two days,
covered with a board to keep them down. Then take them out, wipe them
dry, cut them open, and extract the stones. Mix together, to your
taste, minced garlic, scraped horseradish, bruised mustard seed, and
cloves; and a little ginger-root soaked in water to soften, and then
sliced. Fill the cavity of the peaches with this mixture. Then tie them
round with packthread, and put them into a stone jar till it is
two-thirds full. Strew among them some whole cloves, broken cinnamon,
and a little cochineal. Season some cold vinegar, (allowing to each
quart a jill of fresh made mustard, and a little ginger, and nutmeg,)
and having mixed this pickle well, fill up the jar with it.

BROILED TOMATAS.

Take large ripe tomatas; wipe them, and split them in half. Broil them
on a gridiron till brown, turning them when half done. Have ready in a
dish some butter seasoned with a little pepper. When the tomatas are
well broiled, put them into the dish, and press each a little with the
back of a spoon, so that the juice may run into the butter and mix with
it. This is to make the gravy. Send them to table hot.

Tomatas are very good sliced, and fried in butter.

PRESERVED TOMATAS.

Take large fine tomatas, (not too ripe,) and scald them to make the
skins come off easily. Weigh them, and to each pound allow a pound of
the best brown sugar, and the grated peel of a large lemon. Put all
together into a preserving kettle, and having boiled it slowly for
three hours, (skimming it carefully,) add the juice of the lemons, and
boil it an hour longer. Then put the whole into jars, and when cool
cover and tie them up closely. This is a cheap and excellent sweetmeat;
but the lemon must on no account be omitted. It may be improved by
boiling a little ginger with the other ingredients.

TOMATA HONEY.

To each pound of tomatas, allow the grated peel of a lemon and six
fresh peach-leaves. Boil them slowly till they are all to pieces; then
squeeze and strain them through a bag. To each pint of liquid allow a
pound of loaf-sugar, and the juice of one lemon. Boil them together
half an hour, or till they become a thick jelly. Then put it into
glasses, and lay double tissue paper closely over the top. It will be
scarcely distinguishable from real honey.

PRESERVED CUCUMBERS.

Your cucumbers should be well shaped, and all of the same size. Spread
the bottom and sides of a preserving kettle with a thick layer of vine
leaves. Then put in the cucumbers—with a little alum broken small.
Cover them thickly with vine leaves, and then with a dish. Fill up the
kettle with water, and let them hang over a slow fire till nest
morning, but do not allow the water to boil. Next day, take them out,
cool them, and repeat the process with fresh vine leaves, till the
cucumbers are a fine green. When cold drain them, cut a small piece out
of the flat side, and extract the seeds. Wipe the cucumbers in a dry
cloth, and season the inside with a mixture of bruised mace and grated
lemon-peel. Tie on with a packthread the bit that was cut out.

Weigh them, and to every pound of cucumbers allow a pound of
loaf-sugar. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle, a half pint of
water to each pound, and. the beaten white of an egg to every four
pounds. Boil and skim the sugar till quite clear, adding sliced ginger
and lemon parings to your taste. When cool, pour it over the cucumbers,
and let them lie in it two days, keeping them covered with a plate, and
a weight on it to press it down. Then boil up the syrup again, adding
one-half as much sugar, &c. as you had at first; and at the last the
juice and grated peel of two lemons for every six cucumbers. The lemon
must boil in the syrup but ten minutes. Then strain the syrup all over
the cucumbers, and put them up in glass jars.

If they are not quite clear, boil them in a third syrup.

Small green melons may be preserved in this manner.

APPLE RICE PUDDING.

Wash half a pint of rice and boil it till soft and dry. Pare, core, and
cut up six large juicy apples, and stew them in as little water as
possible. When they are quite, tender, take them out, and mash them
with six table-spoonfuls of brown sugar. When the apples and rice are
both cold, mix them. together. Have ready five eggs beaten very light,
and add them gradually to the other ingredients, with five or six drops
of essence of lemon, and a grated nutmeg. Or you may substitute for the
essence, the grated peel and the juice of one large lemon. Beat the
whole very hard after it is all mixed; tie it tightly in a cloth,
(leaving but a very small space for it to swell,) and stopping up the
tying place with a lump of flour moistened to paste with water. Put it
into a pot of boiling water, and boil it fast for half an hour. Send it
to table hot, and eat it with sweetened cream, or with beaten butter
and sugar.

BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS.

Take large, fine, juicy apples, and pare and core them, leaving them as
whole as possible. Put them into a kettle with sufficient water to
cover them, and let them parboil a quarter of an hour. Then take them
out, and drain them on a sieve. Prepare a paste in the proportion of a
pound of butter to two pounds of flour, as for plain pies. Roll it out
into a sheet, and cut it into equal portions according to your number
of apples. Place an apple on each, and fill up the hole from whence the
core was extracted with brown sugar moistened with lemon-juice, or with
any sort of marmalade. Then cover the apple with the paste, closing it
neatly. Place the dumplings side by side in buttered square pans, (not
so as to touch,) and bake them of a light brown. Serve them warm or
cool, and eat them with cream sauce.

They will be found very good.

INDIAN LOAF CAKE.

Mix a tea-cup full of powdered white sugar with a quart of rich milk,
and cut up in the milk two ounces of butter, adding a salt-spoonful of
salt. Put this mixture into a covered pan or skillet, and set it on
coals till it is scalding hot. Then take it off, and scald with it as
much yellow Indian meal (previously sifted) as will make it of the
consistence of thick boiled mush. Beat the whole very hard for a
quarter of an hour, and then set it away to cool.

While it is cooling, beat three eggs very light, and stir them
gradually into the mixture when it is about as warm as new milk. Add a
tea-cup full of good strong yeast, and beat the whole another quarter
of an hour—for much of the goodness of this cake depends on its being
long and well beaten. Then have ready a turban mould or earthen pan
with a pipe in the centre, (to diffuse the heat through the middle of
the cake.) The pan must be very well buttered, as Indian meal is apt to
stick. Put in the mixture, cover it, and set it in a warm place to
rise. It should be light in about four hours. Then bake it two hours in
a moderate oven. When done, turn it oat with the broad surface
downwards, and send it to table hot and whole. Cut it into slices, and
eat it with butter.

This will be found an excellent cake. If wanted for breakfast, mix it,
and set it to rise the night before. If properly made, standing all
night will not injure it. Like all Indian cakes, (of which this is one
of the best,) it should be eaten warm.

It will be much improved by adding to the mixture, a salt-spoon of
pearl-ash, or sal-aratus, dissolved in a little water.

PLAIN CIDER CAKE.

Sift into a large pan a pound and a half of flour, and rub into it half
a pound of butter. Mix in three-quarters of a pound of powdered white
sugar and melt a small tea-spoonful of sal-aratus or pearl-ash in a
pint of the best cider. Pour the cider into the other ingredients while
it is foaming, and stir the whole very hard. Have ready a buttered
square pan, put in the mixture, and set It immediately in a rather
brisk oven. Bake it an hour or more, according to its thickness. This
is a tea cake, and should be eaten fresh. Cut it into squares, split
and butter them.

TENNESSEE MUFFINS.

Sift three pints of yellow Indian meal, and put one-half into a pan and
scald it. Then set it away to get cold. Beat six: eggs, whites and
yolks separately. The yolks must be beaten till they become very thick
and smooth, and the whites till they are a stiff froth, that stands
alone. When the scalded meal is cold, mix it into a batter with the
beaten yolk of egg, the remainder of the meal, a salt-spoonful of salt,
and, if necessary, a little water. The batter must be quite thick. At
the last, stir in, lightly and slowly, the beaten white of egg. Grease
your muffin rings, and set them in an oven of the proper heat; put in
the batter immediately, as standing will injure it.

Send them to table hot; pull them open, and eat them with butter.


HOE CAKE.

Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and sift into a pan a
quart of wheat flour, adding a salt-spoon of salt. Make a hole in the
middle, and mix in the white of egg so as to form a thick batter, and
then add two table-spoonfuls of the best fresh yeast. Cover it, and let
it stand all night. In the morning, take a hoe-iron (such as are made
purposely for cakes) and prop it before the fire till, it is well
heated. Then flour a tea-saucer, and filling it with batter, shake it
about, and clap it to the hoe, (which must be previously greased,) and
the batter will adhere, till it is baked. Repeat this with each cake.
Keep them hot, and eat them with butter.

MILK TOAST.

Boil a pint of rich milk, and then take it off, and stir into it a
quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mixed with a small table-spoonful
of flour. Then let it again come to a boil. Have ready two deep plates
with half a dozen slices of toast in each. Pour the milk over them hot,
and keep them covered till they go to table. Milk toast is generally
eaten at breakfast.

POTATO YEAST.

Pare half a dozen middle-sized potatoes, and boil them in a quart of
soft water, mixed with a handful of hops, till quite soft. Then mash
the potatoes smooth, not leaving in a single lump. Mix with them a
handful of wheat flour. Set a sieve over the pan in which you have the
flour and mashed potatoes, and strain into them the hop-water in which
they were boiled. Then stir the mixture very hard, and afterwards pass
it through a cullender to clear it of lumps. Let it stand till it is
nearly cold. Then stir in four table-spoonfuls of strong yeast, and let
it stand to ferment. When the foam has sunk down in the middle, (which
will not be for several hours,) it is done working. Then put it into a
stone jug and cork it. Set it in a cool place.

This yeast will be found extremely good for raising home-made bread.

Yeast when it becomes sour may be made fit to use by stirring into it a
little sal-aratus, or pearl-ash, allowing a small tea-spoonful to a
pint of yeast. This will remove the acidity, and improve the bread in
lightness. The pearl-ash must be previously melted in a little lukewarm
water.

CREAM CHEESE.

The cheese so called (of which numbers are brought to Philadelphia
market) is not in reality made of cream, but of milk warm from the cow,
and therefore unskimmed.

Having strained into a tub a bucket of new milk, turn it in the usual
way with rennet water. When it has completely come, take a clean linen
cloth and press it down upon the firm curd, so as to make the whey rise
up over it. As the whey rises, dip it off with a saucer or a skimming
dish. Then carefully put the curd (as whole as possible) into a cheese
hoop, or mould, which for this purpose should be about half a foot
deep, and as large round as a dinner plate—first spreading a clean wet
cloth under the curd, and folding it (the cloth) over the top. Lay a
large brick on it, or something of equivalent weight, and let the whey
drain gradually out through the holes at the bottom of the mould. It
must not be pressed hard, as when finished a cream cheese should be
only about the consistence of firm butter. The curd will sink gradually
in the mould till the whole mass will be about two or three inches
thick. Let it remain in the mould six hours, by which time the whey
should cease to exude from it. Otherwise, it must be left in somewhat
longer.

When you take out the cheese, rub it all over with a little lard, and
sprinkle it slightly with fine salt. Set it in a dry dark place, and in
four or five days it will be fit for use. When once cut, it should (if
the weather is warm) be eaten immediately; but if uncut, it will keep a
week in a cold place, provided it is turned three or four times a day.
Send it to table whole on a large plate, and cut it when there into
wedge-shaped pieces as you would a pie. It is usually eaten at tea or
supper, and is by most persons considered a delicacy.

ALMOND BREAD.

Blanch, and pound in a mortar, half a pound of shelled sweet almonds
till they are a smooth paste, adding rose-water as you pound them. They
should be done the day before they are wanted. Prepare a pound of
loaf-sugar finely powdered, a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, (mace,
nutmeg, and cinnamon,) and three-quarters of a pound of sifted flour.
Take fourteen eggs, and separate the whites from the yolks. Leave out
seven of the whites, and beat the other seven to a stiff froth. Beat
the yolks till very thick and smooth, and then beat the sugar gradually
into them, adding the spice. Next stir in the white of egg, then the
flour, and lastly the almonds. You may add twelve drops of essence of
lemon.

Put the mixture into a square tin pan, (well buttered,) or into a
copper or tin turban-mould, and set it immediately in a brisk oven. Ice
it when cool. It is best if eaten fresh. You may add a few bitter
almonds to the sweet ones.

CUSTARD CAKES.

Mix together a pound of sifted flour and a quarter of a pound of
powdered loaf-sugar. Divide into four a pound of fresh butter; mix
one-fourth of it with the flour, and make it into a dough. Then roll it
out, and put in the three remaining divisions of the butter at three
more rollings. Set the paste in a cool place till the custard is ready.
For the custard, beat very light the yolk only of eight eggs, and then
stir them gradually into a pint of rich cream, adding three ounces of
powdered white sugar, a grated nutmeg, and ratafia, peach-water, or
essence of lemon, to your taste. Put the mixture into a deep dish; set
it in an iron baking pan or a Dutch oven half full of boiling water,
and bake it a quarter of an hour. Then put it to cool.

In the mean time roll out the paste into a thin sheet; cut it into
little round cakes about the size of a dollar, and bake them on flat
tins. When they are done, spread some of the cakes thickly with the
custard, and lay others on the top of them, making them fit closely in
the manner of lids.

You may bake the paste in patty-pans like shells, and put in the
custard after they come out of the oven. If the custard is baked in the
paste, it will be clammy and heavy at the bottom.

They are sometimes called cream cakes or cream tarts.

HONEY GINGER CAKE.

Rub together a pound of sifted flour and three-quarters of a pound of
fresh butter. Mix in, a tea-cup of fine brown sugar, two large
table-spoonfuls of strong ginger, and (If you like them) two
table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Having beaten five eggs, add them to
the mixture alternately with a pint of strained honey; stirring in
towards the last a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, that has been
melted in a very little water.

Having beaten or stirred the mixture long enough to make it perfectly
light, transfer it to a square iron or block-tin pan, (which must be
well buttered,) put it into a moderate oven, and bake it an hour or
more, in proportion to its thickness.

When cool, cut it into squares. It is best if eaten fresh, but it will
keep very well a week.

ROCK CAKE.

Blanch three-quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and bruise
them fine in a mortar, but not to a smooth paste as for maccaroons.
Add, as you pound them, a little rose-water. Beat to a stiff froth the
whites of four eggs, and then beat in gradually a pound of powdered
loaf-sugar. Add a few drops of oil of lemon. Then mix in the pounded
almonds. Flour your hands, and make the mixture into little cones or
pointed cakes. Spread sheets of damp, thin, white paper on buttered
sheets of tin, and put the rock cakes on it, rather far apart. Sprinkle
each with powdered loaf-sugar. Bake them of a pale brown, in a brisk
oven. They will be done in a few minutes.

When cold, take them off the papers.

FROZEN CUSTARD.

Slice a vanilla bean, and boil it slowly in half a pint of milk/till
all the strength is extracted and the milk highly flavoured with the
vanilla. Then strain its and set it aside. Mix a quart of cream and a
pint of milk, or, if you cannot procure cream, take three pints of rich
milk, and put them into a skillet or sauce-pan. Set it on hot coals,
and boil it. When it has come to a boil, mix a table-spoonful of flour
in three table-spoonfuls of milk, and stir it info the boiling liquid.
Afterwards add two eggs, (which have been beaten up with two
table-spoonfuls of milk,) pouring them slowly into the mixture. Take
care to stir it all the time it is boiling. Five minutes after, stir in
gradually half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and then the decoction
of vanilla. Having stirred it hard a few moments, take it off the fire,
and set it to cool. When quite cold, put it into a mould and freeze it,
as you would ice-cream, for which it frequently passes.

You may flavour it with a tea-spoonful of strong oil of lemon, stirred
in just before you take it from the fire, or with a quarter of a pound
of shelled bitter almonds, blanched, pounded in a mortar with a little
water, and then boiled in half a pint of milk, till the flavour Is
extracted.

CHERRY CORDIAL.

Take a bushel of fine ripe cherries, either red or black, or mixed;
stone them, put them into a clean wooden vessel, and mash them with a
mallet or beetle. Then boil them about five minutes, and. strain the
juice. To each quart of juice allow a quart of water, a pound of sugar,
and a quart of brandy. Boil in the water (before you mix it with the
juice) two ounces of cloves, and four ounces of cinnamon; then strain
out the spice. Put the mixture into a stone jug, or a demijohn, and
cork it tightly. Bottle it in two or three months.

COMMON ICE CREAM.

Split into pieces a vanilla bean, and boil it in a very little milk
till the flavour is well extracted; then strain it. Mix two
table-spoonfuls of arrow-root powder, or the same quantity of fine
powdered starch, with just sufficient cold milk to make it a thin
paste; rubbing it till quite smooth. Boil together a pint of cream and
a pint of rich milk; and while boiling stir in the preparation of
arrow-root, and the milk in which the vanilla has been boiled. When it
has boiled hard, take it off, stir in half a pound of powdered
loaf-sugar, and let it come to a boil again. Then strain it, and put it
into a freezer placed in a tub that has a hole in the bottom to let-out
the water; and surround the freezer on all sides with ice broken
finely, and mixed with coarse salt. Beat the cream hard for half an
hour. Then let it rest; occasionally taking off the cover, and scraping
down with a long spoon the cream that slicks to the sides. When it is
well frozen, transfer it to a mould; surround it with fresh salt and
ice, and then freeze it over again.

If you wish to flavour it with lemon instead of vanilla, take a large
lump of the sugar before you powder it, and rub it on the outside of a
large lemon till the yellow is all rubbed off upon the sugar. Then,
when the sugar is all powdered, mix with it the juice.

For strawberry ice cream, mix with the powdered sugar the juice of a
quart of ripe strawberries squeezed through a linen cloth.

PINK CHAMPAGNE JELLY.

Beat half the white of an egg to a stiff froth, and then stir it hard
into three wine-glasses of filtered water. Put twelve ounces of the
best double-refined loaf-sugar (powdered fine and sifted) into a
skillet lined with porcelain. Pour on it the white of egg and water,
and stir it till dissolved. Then add twelve grains of cochineal powder.
Set it over a moderate fire, and boil it and skim it till the scum
ceases to rise. Then strain it through a very fine sieve. Have ready an
ounce and a half of isinglass that has been boiled in a little water
till quite dissolved. Strain it, and while the boiled sugar is lukewarm
mix it with the isinglass, adding a pint of pink champagne and the
juice of a large lemon. Run it through a linen bag into a mould. When
it has congealed so as to be quite firm, wrap a wet cloth round the
outside of the mould, and turn out the jelly into a glass dish; or
serve it broken up, in jelly glasses, or glass cups. Jelly may be made
in a similar manner of Madeira, marasquin, or noyau.

A CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

Boil in half a pint of milk a split vanilla bean, till all the flavour
is extracted. Then strain the milk, and when it is cold stir into it
the yolks of four beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pound of powdered
loaf-sugar.

Simmer this custard five minutes over hot coals, but do not let it come
to a boil. Then set it away to cool. Having boiled an ounce of the best
Russian isinglass in a pint of water till it is entirely dissolved and
the water reduced to one-half, strain it into the custard, stir it
hard, and set it aside to get quite cold.

Whip to a stiff froth a quart of rich cream, taking it off in spoonfuls
as you do it, and putting it to drain on an inverted sieve. When the
custard is quite cold, (but not yet set or congealing,) stir the whipt
cream gradually into it.

Take at circular mould of the shape of a drum, the sides being
straight. Cut to fit it two round slices from the top and bottom of an
almond sponge-cake; glaze them with white of egg, and lay one on at the
bottom of the mould, reserving the other for the top.

Having thus covered the bottom, line the sides of the mould with, more
of the sponge-cake, cut into long squares and glazed all over with
white of egg. They must be placed so as to stand up all round—each
wrapping a little over the other so as to leave not the smallest
vacancy between; and they must be cut exactly the height of the mould,
and trimmed evenly. Then fill up with the custard and cream when it is
just beginning to congeal; and cover the top with the other round slice
of cake.

Set the mould in a tub of pounded ice mixed with coarse salt; and let
it remain forty minutes, or near an hour. Then turn out the Charlotte
on a china dish. Have ready an icing, made in the usual manner of
beaten white of egg and powdered sugar, flavoured with essence of
lemon. Spread it smoothly over the top of the Charlotte, which when the
icing is dry will be ready, to serve. They are introduced at large
parties, and it is usual to have two or four of them.

A CHARLOTTE POLONAISE.

Boil over a slow fire a pint and a half of cream. While it is boiling
have ready six yolks of eggs, beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of
powdered arrow-root, or fine flour. Stir this gradually into the
boiling cream, taking care to have it perfectly smooth and free from
lumps. Ten minutes will suffice for the egg and cream to boil together.
Then divide the mixture by putting it into two separate sauce-pans.

Then mix with it, in one of the pans, six ounces of chocolate scraped
fine, two ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, and a quarter of a pound of
maccaroons, broken up. When it has come to a hard boil, take it off,
stir it well, pour it into a bowl, and set it away to cool.

Have ready, for the other sauce-pan of cream and egg, a dozen bitter
almonds, and four ounces of shelled sweet almonds or pistachio nuts,
all blanched and pounded in a mortar with rose-water to a smooth paste,
and mixed with an ounce of citron also pounded. Add four ounces of
powdered sugar; and to colour it green, two large spoonfuls of spinach
juice that has been strained through a sieve. Stir this mixture into
the other half of the cream, and let it come to a boil. Then put it
aside to cool.

Cut a large sponge-cake into slices half an inch thick. Spread one
slice thickly with the chocolate cream, and cover another slice with
the almond cream. Do this alternately (piling them evenly on a china
dish) till all the ingredients are used up. You may arrange it in the
original form of the sponge-cake before it was cut, or in a pyramid.
Have ready the whites of the six eggs whipped to a stiff froth, with
which have been gradually mixed six ounces of powdered sugar, and
twelve drops of oil of lemon. With a spoon heap this meringue (as the
French call it) all over the pile of cake, &c., and then sift powdered
sugar over it. Set it in a very slow oven till the outside becomes a
light brown colour.

Serve it up cold, ornamented according to your taste.

If you find the chocolate cream too thin, add more maccaroons. If the
almond cream is too thin, mix in more pounded citron. If either of the
mixtures is too thick, dilute it with more cream.

This is superior to a Charlotte Russe.

APPLE COMPOTE.

Take large ripe pippin apples. Pare, core, and weigh them, and to each
pound allow a pound of fine loaf-sugar and two lemons. Parboil the
apples, and then set them out to cool. Pare off very nicely with a
penknife the yellow rind of the lemons, taking care not to break it;
and then with scissors trim the edges to an even width all along. Put
the lemon-rind to boil in a little sauce-pan by itself, till it Becomes
tender, and then set it to cool. Allow half a pint of water to each
pound of sugar; and when it is melted, set it on the fire in the
preserving kettle, put in the apples, and boil them slowly till they
are clear and tender all through, but not till they break; skimming the
syrup carefully. After you have taken out the apples, add the
lemon-juice, put in the lemon-peel, and boil it till quite transparent.
When the whole is cold, put the apples with the syrup into glass
dishes, and dispose the wreaths of lemon-peel fancifully about them.



ANIMALS


FIGURES EXPLANATORY OF THE PIECES INTO WHICH THE FIVE LARGE ANIMALS ARE
DIVIDED BY THE BUTCHERS.

_Beef._


[Illustration]

1. Sirloin. 2. Rump. 3. Edge Bone. 4. Buttock. 5. Mouse Buttock. 6.
Leg. 7. Thick Flank. 8. Veiny Piece. 9. Thin Flank. 10. Fore Rib: 7
Ribs. 11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs. 12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs. 13. Brisket. 14.
Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. 15. Clod. 16. Neck, or Sticking
Piece. 17. Shin. 18. Cheek.

_Veal_.


[Illustration]

1. Loin, Best End. 2. Fillet. 3. Loin, Chump End. 4. Hind Knuckle. 5.
Neck, Best End. 6. Breast, Best End. 7. Blade Bone. 8. Fore Knuckle. 9.
Breast, Brisket End. 10. Neck, Scrag End.

_Mutton._


[Illustration]

1. Leg 2. Shoulder 3. Loin, Best End. 4. Loin, Chump End. 5. Neck, Best
End. 6. Breast. 7. Neck, Scrag End.


_Note:_ A Chine is two Loins, and two Necks of the Best End.

_Pork._


[Illustration]

1. Leg. 2. Hind Loin. 3. Fore Loin. 4. Spare Rib. 5. Hand. 6. Spring.

_Venison_


[Illustration]

1. Shoulder. 2. Neck. 3. Haunch. 4. Breast. 5. Scrag.



INDEX


Acid salt
Almond cake
Almond custard
Almond ice-cream
Almond maccaroons
Almond pudding
Another almond pudding
Anchovy catchup
Anchovy sauce
Anniseed cordial
Apees
Apples, baked
Apple butter
Apple butter, without cider
Apple custard
Apple dumplings
Apple fritters
Apple jelly
Apple and other pies
Apple pot-pie Apples, preserved
Apple pudding, baked
Apple pudding, boiled
Apple sauce
Apple water
Apricots, preserved
Arrow-root blanc-mange
Arrow-root jelly
Arrow-root pudding
Artichokes, to boil
Asparagus, to boil
Asparagus soup

Balm of Gilead oil
Barberry jelly
Barberries, to pickle
Barley water
Bath buns
Bean soup
Beans, (dried,) to boil
Beans, (green or French,) to boil
Beans, (green,) to pickle
Beans, (Lima,) to boil, and dry
Beans, (scarlet) to boil
Beef, remarks on
Beef, à la mode
Beef, baked
Beef bouilli
Beef (corned or salted) to boil
Beef cakes
Beef, to corn
Beef, to dry and smoke
Beef dripping, to save
Beef, hashed
Beef’s heart, roasted
Beef’s heart, stewed
Beef kidney, to dress Beef, potted
Beef, to roast
Beef soup, fine
Beef steaks, to broil
Beef steaks, to fry
Beef steak pie
Beef steak pudding
Beef, to stew
Beef, (a round of,) to stew
Beef, (a round of,) to stew another way
Beef and tongues, to pickle
Beef tea
Beets, to boil
Beets, to stew
Beer, (molasses)
Beer, (sassafras)
Biscuit, (milk)
Biscuit, (soda)
Biscuit, (sugar)
Biscuit, (tea)
Bishop
Bitters
Black cake
Black-fish, to stew
Blanc-mange
Blanc-mange, (arrow-root)
Blanc-mange, (carrageen)
Bottled small beer
Bran bread
Bread
Bread, (rye and Indian)
Bread cake
Bread jelly
Bread pudding, baked
Bread pudding, boiled
Bread and butter pudding
Bread sauce
Brocoli, to boil
Brown soup, rich
Buckwheat cakes
Burnet vinegar
Burns, remedy for
Butter, to brown
Butter, melted or drawn
Butter, to make
Butter, to preserve
Butternuts, to pickle

Cabbage, to boil
Cabbage, (red,) to pickle
Cale-cannon
Calf’s feet broth
Calf’s feet, to fry
Calf’s feet jelly
Calf’s head, dressed plain
Calf’s head, hashed
Calf’s head soup
Calf’s liver, fried
Calf’s liver, larded
Cantelope, preserved
Caper sauce
Capillaire
Carrots, to boil
Carrot pudding
Carp, to stew
Carrageen blanc-mange
Catfish soup
Cauliflower, to boil
Cauliflower, to pickle
Cayenne pepper
Celery, to prepare for table
Celery sauce
Celery vinegar
Charlotte, (plum)
Charlotte, (raspberry)
Cheese, to make
Cheese, (cottage)
Cheese, (sage)
Cheese, (Stilton)
Cheesecake, (almond)
Cheesecake, (common)
Cherry bounce
Cherry cordial
Cherries, (dried)
Cherry jam
Cherry jelly
Cherries, preserved
Cherries, preserved whole
Cherry shrub
Chestnuts, to roast
Chestnut pudding
Chicken broth, and panada,
Chickens, broiled,
Chicken croquets and rissoles,
Chicken curry,
Chicken dumplings or puddings,
Chickens, fricasseed,
Chicken jelly,
Chicken pie,
Chicken salad,
Chilblains, remedy for,
Chilli vinegar,
Chitterlings, or calf’s tripe,
Chocolate, to make,
Chocolate custard,
Chowder,
Cider cake,
Cider, (mulled,)
Cider vinegar,
Cider wine,
Cinderellas, or German puffs,
Citrons, to preserve,
Clam soup,
Clam soup, (plain,)
Clotted cream,
Cocoa, to prepare,
Cocoa shells, to boil,
Cocoa-nut cakes,
Cocoa-nut cakes, (white,)
Cocoa-nut custard, baked,
Cocoa-nut custard, boiled,
Cocoa-nut jumbles,
Cocoa-nut maccaroons,
Cocoa-nut pudding,
Cocoa-nut pudding, another way,
Codfish, (fresh,) to boil,
Codfish, (fresh,) to boil another way,
Codfish, salt, to boil,
Coffee, to make,
Coffee, (French,)
Cold cream,
Cold slaw,
Cold sweet sauce,
Cologne water,
Colouring for confectionary,
Corn, (Indian,) to boil,
Corn, (green,) pudding,
Corns, remedy for,
Cosmetic paste,
Crab-apples, (green,) to preserve,
Crab-apples, (red,) to preserve,
Crabs, (cold,)
Crabs, (hot,)
Crabs, (soft,)
Cranberries, to preserve,
Cranberry sauce,
Cream cake,
Cream, (lemon,)
Cream, (orange,)
Cream, to preserve,
Cream sauce,
Cucumbers, to dress raw,
Cucumbers, to fry,
Cucumbers, to pickle,
Cup cake,
Curaçoa,
Curds and whey,
Currant jelly, (black,)
Currant jelly, (red,)
Currant jelly, (white,)
Currant shrub,
Currant wine,
Custard, (boiled,)
Custard, (plain,)
Custard, (rice,)
Custard, (soft,)
Custard pudding,

Dough nuts,
Ducks, to hash,
Ducks, to stew,
Ducks, to roast,
Dumplings, (apple,)
Dumplings, (light,)
Dumplings, (plain suet,)
Dumplings, (fine suet,)
Dumplings, (Indian,)
Durable ink,
Durable ink, another way,

Eastern pudding,
Eggs, to boil for breakfast,
Eggs, to fricassee,
Eggs, to keep,
Eggs with ham,
Egg nogg,
Eggs, to pickle,
Egg plant, to stew,
Egg plant, to fry,
Egg plant, stuffed,
Eggs, raw,
Egg sauce,
Election cake,
Elderberry wine,
Elder-flower wine,
Essence of lemon peel,
Essence of peppermint,
Eve’s pudding,

Family soup,
Federal cakes,
Flannel cakes,
Flax-seed lemonade,
Floating island,
Flour, to brown,
Flour hasty-pudding,
Force-meat balls,
Fowls, to boil,
Fowls, to roast,
Fox-grape shrub,
Friar’s chicken,
Fritters, (apple,)
Fritters, (plain,)
Frosted fruit,
Fruit queen-cakes,

General sauce,
Gherkins, to pickle,
Ginger, to preserve,
Ginger beer,
Ginger plum-cake,
Gingerbread, (common,)
Gingerbread nuts,
Gingerbread, (Franklin,)
Gingerbread, (white,)
Gooseberries, bottled,
Gooseberry custard,
Gooseberry fool,
Gooseberries, to preserve,
Gooseberries, to stew,
Gooseberry wine,
Goose pie,
Goose pie for Christmas,
Goose, to roast,
Grapes, in brandy,
Grapes, (wild,) to keep,
Grape jelly,
Gravy, (drawn or made,)
Gravy soup, (clear,)
Ground nuts, to roast,
Ground rice milk,
Grouse, to roast,
Gruel, to make,
Gruel, oatmeal,

Halibut, to boil,
Halibut cutlets,
Ham, to boil,
Ham, to broil,
Ham or bacon, directions for curing,
Ham, (to glaze,)
Ham dumplings,
Ham pie,
Ham sandwiches,
Ham, to roast,
Ham, (Westphalia,) to imitate,
Hare or rabbit soup,
Hare, to roast,
Harvey’s sauce,
Herbs, to dry,
Hominy, to boil,
Honey cake,
Horseradish vinegar,
Huckleberry cake,
Hungary water,

Ice cream, (almond,)
Ice cream, (lemon,)
Ice cream, (pine apple,)
Ice cream, (raspberry,)
Ice cream, (strawberry,)
Ice cream, (vanilla,)
Ice lemonade,
Ice orangeade,
Icing for cakes,
Indian batter cakes,
Indian corn, to boil,
Indian dumplings,
Indian flappers,
Indian muffins,
Indian mush,
Indian mush cakes,
Indian pound cake,
Indian pudding, baked,
Indian pudding, boiled,
Indian pudding without eggs,
Italian Cream,

Jaune-mange,
Jelly cake,
Johnny cake,
Julienne (à la) soup,

Kid, to roast,
Kitchen, pepper,
Kitchiner’s fish-sauce,
Kisses,

Lady cake,
Lamb, to roast,
Larding,
Lavender, compound,
Lavender water,
Laudanum, antidote to,
Lead water,
Lemon brandy,
Lemon catchup,
Lemon cordial,
Lemon cream,
Lemon custard,
Lemon juice, to keep,
Lemon peel, to keep,
Lemon peel, (essence of,)
Lemons, preserved,
Lemon pudding,
Lemon syrup,
Lemonade,
Lettuce or salad, to dress,
Lip salve,
Liver dumplings,
Liver puddings,
Lobster, to boil,
Lobster catchup,
Lobster, to fricassee,
Lobster, to dress cold,
Lobster, pickled,
Lobster, potted,
Lobster pie,
Lobster sauce,
Lobster soup,
Lobster, to stew,

Maccaroni, to dress,
Maccaroni soup,
Maccaroni soup, (rich,)
Maccaroons, (almond,)
Maccaroons, (cocoa-nut,)
Maccaroon custard,
Mackerel, to boil,
Mackerel, to broil,
Mangoes, to pickle,
Marbled veal,
Marlborough pudding,
Marmalade cake,
Mead,
Meg Merrilies’ soup,
Milk biscuit
Milk punch
Milk soup
Mince pies
Mince meat
Mince meat for Lent
Mince meat, (very plain)
Minced oysters
Mint sauce
Molasses beer
Molasses candy
Molasses posset
Moravian sugar-cake
Morella cherries, to pickle
Mock oysters of corn
Mock turtle, or calf’s head soup
Muffins, (common)
Muffins, (Indian)
Muffins, (water)
Mulled cider
Mulled wine
Mullagatawny soup
Mush, (Indian,) to make
Mush cakes
Mushrooms, to broil
Mushroom catchup
Mushrooms, to pickle brown
Mushrooms, to pickle white
Mushroom sauce
Mushrooms, to stew
Musquito bites, remedy for
Mustard, (common)
Mustard, (French)
Mustard, (keeping)
Mutton, to boil
Mutton broth
Mutton broth made quickly
Mutton, (casserole of)
Mutton chops, broiled
Mutton chops, stewed
Mutton cutlets, à la Maintenon
Mutton harico
Mutton, hashed
Mutton, (leg of,) stewed
Mutton, to roast
Mutton soup, (including cabbage and noodle soups)

Nasturtians, to pickle
Nasturtian sauce
New York cookies
Nougat
Noyau

Oatmeal gruel
Ochra soup
Oil of flowers
Omelet, (plain)
Omelet soufflé
Onions, to boil
Onions, to fry
Onions, to pickle
Onions, pickled white
Onions, to roast
Onion sauce, (brown)
Onion sauce, (white)
Onion soup
Orangeade
Orange cream
Orange jelly
Orange marmalade
Orange pudding
Orgeat
Ortolans, to roast
Oyster catchup
Oysters, fried
Oyster fritters
Oysters, minced
Oysters, pickled
Oysters, pickled for keeping
Oyster pie
Oysters, scalloped
Oysters, stewed
Oyster soup
Oyster soup, (plain,)
Ox-tail soup,
Oyster Sauce,

Panada, (chicken,)
Pancakes, (plain,)
Pancakes, (sweetmeat,)
Parsley, to pickle,
Parsley sauce,
Parsnips, to boil,
Partridges, to roast,
Partridges, to roast another way,
Paste, (dripping,)
Paste, (lard,)
Paste, (the best plain,)
Paste, (potato,)
Paste, (fine puff.)
Paste, (suet,)
Paste, (sweet,)
Peaches, (in brandy,)
Peach cordial,
Peaches, (dried,)
Peaches for common use,
Peach jelly,
Peach kernels,
Peach marmalade,
Peaches, to pickle,
Peaches, to preserve,
Peach sauce,
Peas, (green,) to boil,
Peas soup,
Peas soup, (green,)
Pears, to bake,
Pears, to preserve,
Peppers, (green,) to pickle,
Peppers, (green,) to preserve,
Pepper pot,
Perch, to fry,
Pheasants, to roast,
Pheasants, to roast another way,
Pies,
Pie crust, (common,)
Pies, (standing,)
Pies, (apple and other,)
Pickle, (East India,)
Pig, to roast,
Pig’s feet and ears, soused,
Pigeon or chicken dumplings,
Pigeon pie,
Pigeons, to roast,
Pilau,
Pine-apple ice cream,
Pine-apples, (fresh,) to prepare for eating,
Pine-apples, to preserve,
Plovers, to roast,
Plum charlotte,
Plums for common use,
Plums, to preserve,
Plums, (egg,) to preserve whole,
Plums, (green gage,) to preserve,
Plum pudding, baked,
Plum pudding, boiled,
Poke, to boil,
Pomatum, (soft,)
Pork and beans,
Pork cheese,
Pork, (corned,) to boil,
Pork, (pickled,) to boil with peas pudding,
Pork cutlets,
Pork, (leg of,) to roast,
Pork, (loin of,) to roast,
Pork, (middling piece,) to roast,
Pork pie,
Pork steaks,
Pork, to stew,
Port wine jelly,
Pot pie,
Pot pie, (apple,)
Potatoes, to boil,
Potatoes, to fry,
Potatoes, roasted
Potato pudding
Potato snow
Pound cake
Prawns, to boil
Prune pudding
Pudding catchup
Pumpkin, to boil
Pumpkin chips
Pumpkin pudding
Pumpkin yeast
Punch
Punch, (frozen,)
Punch, (milk,)
Punch, (fine milk,)
Punch, (regent’s,)
Punch, (Roman,)
Pyramid of tarts,
Pink sauce,

Quails, to roast
Queen cake
Quin’s sauce for fish
Quince cheese
Quince cordial
Quince jelly
Quince marmalade
Quinces, preserved
Quinces, to preserve whole
Quince pudding

Rabbits, fricasseed
Rabbits, to fry
Rabbits, to stew
Radishes, to prepare for table
Radish pods, to pickle
Raspberry charlotte
Raspberry cordial
Raspberry ice-cream
Raspberry jam
Raspberries, to preserve
Raspberry vinegar
Raspberry wine
Ratafia
Raw egg
Reed birds, to roast
Rennet whey
Rhubarb tarts
Rice, to boil
Rice, to boil for curry Rice custard
Rice cakes
Rice dumplings
Rice flummery
Rice jelly
Rice pudding, boiled
Rice pudding, (farmer’s,)
Rice pudding, (ground,)
Rice pudding, (plain,)
Rice pudding, (plum,)
Rice milk
Rice milk, (ground,)
Ringworms, remedy for,
Rock-fish, to boil,
Rock-fish, to pickle,
Rolls, (common,)
Rolls, (French,)
Rose brandy
Rhubarb jam
Rose cordial
Rose vinegar
Rusk
Russian or Swedish turnip, to boil,
Rye and Indian bread

Sago
Sago pudding
Salad, to dress,
Salmon, (fresh,) to bake whole,
Salmon, (fresh,) to bake in slices,
Salmon, (fresh,) to boil,
Salmon, (pickled,)
Salmon, (smoked,)
Salmon steaks
Sally Lunn cake,
Salsify, to dress,
Sandwiches, (ham,)
Sangaree,
Sassafras beer,
Sausage meat, (common,)
Sausages, (fine,)
Sausages, (Bologna,)
Savoy biscuits,
Scented bags,
Scotch cake,
Scotch queen-cake,
Scotch sauce for fish,
Sea bass or black-fish, boiled,
Sea bass, fried,
Sea catchup,
Sea kale, to boil,
Secrets,
Seidlitz powders,
Shad, baked,
Shad, to fry,
Shalot vinegar,
Shells,
Short cakes,
Shrub, (cherry,)
Shrub, (currant,)
Shrub, (fox-grape,)
Smelts, to fry,
Snowball custard,
Snipes, to roast,
Soda biscuit,
Soda water,
Spanish buns,
Spinach, to boil,
Spinach and eggs,
Sponge cake,
Spruce beer,
Squashes or cymlings, to boil,
Squash, (winter,) to boil,
Squash, pudding,
Strawberries, preserved,
Strawberry ice-cream,
Strawberry cordial,
Sturgeon cutlets,
Suet pudding,
Sugar biscuit,
Sugar syrup, clarified,
Sweet basil vinegar,
Sweet jars,
Sweet sauce, (cold,)
Sweet potatoes, boiled,
Sweet potatoes, fried,
Sweet potato pudding,
Sweet-breads, to broil,
Sweet-breads, larded,
Sweet-breads, to roast,
Syllabub or whipt cream,
Syllabub, (country,)
Shrewsbury cake,

Tamarind water,
Tapioca,
Tarragon vinegar,
Tea, to make,
Terrapins,
Thieves’ vinegar,
Toast and water,
Tomatas, to bake,
Tomata catchup,
Tomatas, to keep,
Tomatas, to pickle,
Tomatas, to stew,
Tomata soy,
Tongue, (salted or pickled,) to boil,
Tongue, (smoked,) to boil,
Trifle,
Tripe, to boil,
Tripe, to fry,
Tripe and oysters,
Trout, to boil,
Trout, to fry,
Turkey, to boil,
Turkey, to roast,
Turkish sherbet,
Turnips, to boil,

Veal, (breast of,) to stew,
Veal, (breast of,) to roast,
Veal cutlets,
Veal, (fillet of,) to stew,
Veal, (fillet of,) to roast,
Veal, (knuckle of,) to stew,
Veal, (loin of,) to roast,
Veal, (minced,)
Veal patties,
Veal pie,
Veal soup
Veal soup, (rich,)
Veal steaks
Veal or chicken tea,
Vegetable soup,
Venison hams,
Venison, (cold,) to hash,
Venison pasty,
Venison, to roast,
Venison soup,
Venison steaks,
Vermicelli soup,
Vinegar (cider,)
Vinegar, (sugar,)
Vinegar, (white,)
Violet perfume,

Wafer cakes,
Waffles,
Walnut catchup,
Walnuts, pickled black,
Walnuts, pickled green,
Walnuts, pickled white,
Warm slaw,
Warts, remedy for,
Washington cake,
Water-melon rind, to preserve,
Water souchy,
Welsh rabbit,
White soup, (rich,)
Wine jelly,
Wine sauce,
Wine whey,
Wonders or crullers,
Woodcocks, to roast,

Yam pudding,
Yeast, (baker’s,)
Yeast, (bran,)
Yeast, (common,)
Yeast, (patent,)
Yeast, (pumpkin,)



ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS


Almond bread,
Almond paste,
Apple dumplings, (baked,)
Apple compote,
Apple rice pudding,

Batter pudding
Blood, to stop,

Charlotte Polonaise,
Charlotte Russe,
Cherry cordial,
Cider cake, (plain,)
Cream cheese,
Cucumbers, (preserved,)
Custard cakes,

Frozen custard,

Giblet soup,
Green pea soup, (French,)
Green ointment,
Gumbo,
Gumbo soup,

Ham omelet,
Hoe cake,
Honey ginger cake,

Ice cream, (common,)
Indian loaf cake,

Lemon drops,

Milk toast,

Peach leather,
Peach mangoes,
Pearlash, to keep,
Peppermint drops,
Pink champagne jelly,
Potato Yeast,

Rock cake,

Tennessee muffins,
Tomatas, (broiled,)
Tomata honey
Tomatas, (preserved,)





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