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Title: Memorials of Shrewsbury - being a concise description of the town and its environs, adapted as a general guide for the information of visitors and residents
Author: Pidgeon, Henry
Language: English
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*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "Memorials of Shrewsbury - being a concise description of the town and its environs, adapted as a general guide for the information of visitors and residents" ***
Transcribed from the 1837 John Eddowes edition by David Price, email
ccx074@pglaf.org
[Picture: Book cover]
MEMORIALS
OF
SHREWSBURY:
BEING A
CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN
AND ITS ENVIRONS,
Adapted as
A General Guide
FOR THE
INFORMATION OF VISITORS AND RESIDENTS.
BY
HENRY PIDGEON.
ILLUSTRATED WITH THIRTY-SIX ENGRAVINGS.
* * * * *
“FLOREAT SALOPIA.”
* * * * *
Shrewsbury:
PRINTED BY JOHN EDDOWES, CORN-MARKET.
1837.
TO THE
Rev. William Gorsuch Rowland, M.A.
MINISTER AND OFFICIAL OF
THE ROYAL PECULIAR OF ST. MARY’S, SHREWSBURY,
AND PREBENDARY OF LICHFIELD,
AS A HUMBLE BUT SINCERE TESTIMONY OF RESPECT,
FOR HIS ZEALOUS AND MUNIFICENT EXERTIONS
IN RESTORING AND HEIGHTENING
THE BEAUTIES AND ARCHITECTURE OF SEVERAL OF THE
CHURCHES IN THIS TOWN,
AND FOR HIS
UNWEARIED ATTENTION TO MANY OF OUR
PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS,
The Memorials of Shrewsbury
ARE VERY RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,
BY
HIS OBEDIENT SERVANT,
_HENRY PIDGEON_.
PREFACE.
A little Manual adapted to assist the enquiring stranger in his
perambulation around Shrewsbury having been long required, an ardent
attachment to his native place, and compliance with the wishes of many
friends whose opinions demand respect, are circumstances that have
induced the present writer to undertake the task, in which he has been
materially assisted by the possession of several volumes of SALOPIAN
ANNALS, or memoranda of all the principal events that have occurred in
the town for several past years, the collection whereof has afforded him
a pleasing recreation in those scraps of time snatched from active
professional avocations—periods wherein every one has his favourite
pursuit, and in which any individual may, by prudently employing them for
his own pleasure, not unfrequently render himself useful to others.
It may be further stated that the present design is purely patriotic; and
whilst no expence has been spared in the numerous embellishments, candour
and truth (combined with accuracy and conciseness) have been carefully
observed throughout a more extensive field of local information and
graphical illustration than has heretofore been cultivated in any
previous work adapted as a Guide through the Metropolis of
Shropshire,—many subjects being now classified and brought under general
notice for the first time.
The Author would therefore hope that the MEMORIALS OF SHREWSBURY will be
found to afford a comprehensive and faithful illustration to the stranger
of whatever may be important in this ancient and beautifully situated
town, as well as useful and deserving the confidence of his
fellow-townsmen in particular, to whom he offers them (to use the words
of our great lexicographer) “in the spirit of a man that has endeavoured
well,” and with the utmost sincerity for the best interests of his native
place.
H. P.
_High-street_, 1836.
ILLUSTRATIONS,
FROM DRAWINGS MADE EXPRESSLY FOR THIS WORK.
PAGE.
1. Vignette View of Shrewsbury —
2. Gateway of Castle 15
3. Remains of Old St. Chad’s Church 28
4. New St. Chad’s Church 33
5. St. Mary’s Church, N.W. 38
6. Monument to Rev. J. B. Blakeway, and North 49
Transept
7. St. Julian’s and St. Alkmond’s Churches 59
8. The Abbey Church 67
9. St. Giles’s Church, N.W. 78
10. — Interior View 81
11. St. Michael’s Church, Castle-foregate 85
12. St. George’s Church, Frankwell 88
13. Trinity Church, Coleham 92
14. Royal Free Grammar School 99
15. Town Arms 105
16. The County Hall 112
17. Market House 117
18. Lord Hill’s Column 122
19. Howard-street Butter and Cheese Market 129
20. The Infirmary 131
21. Drapers’ Almshouses 138
23. Shearmen’s Hall 150
23. The Old Tower 153
24. Initial Letter of a Charter from Edw. III. to the 154
Austin’s Friars
25. The Welsh Bridge 156
26. Portal of Rowley’s Mansion 158
27. Gateway of Council House 161
28. Drapers’ Hall, Interior View 164
29. Ancient Timber House 167
30. The Grey or Franciscan Friary 174
31. The Waterlane Gateway 177
32. The New Theatre 182
33. The Royal Baths, Coton-hill 186
34. Stone Pulpit 194
35. The White Hall Mansion 198
36. Battlefield Church 209
CONTENTS.
Shrewsbury—Situation; foundation; etymology.
ANCIENT HISTORY.
State under the Britons; Stephen besieges the Castle; town 13
taken by Llewelyn; Royal visits; Supreme Courts of Justice;
the Great Parliament; Battle of Shrewsbury; Owen Glendower;
Birth of Richard and George Plantagenet; Proclamation of
Henry VII.; Tradition of the phrase “Proud Salopians;”
Pageant in honour of Sir Henry Sidney; Council House the
residence of King Charles I.; King James II.; Loyally of the
Inhabitants; Visit of their Royal Highnesses the Duchess of
Kent and Princess Victoria.
THE CASTLE AND FEUDAL STATE.
Foundation and early account of the Fortress; Interior 18
Gateway; General Description; Watch Tower; Prospect from the
Castle Mount; Gates and Towers; Feudal Picture of the Town.
PRESENT STATE OF THE TOWN.
Distant appearance; salubrity; Domestic architecture; Act 21
for Improving Streets; Gas Company; Population, &c.
ECCLESIASTICAL BUILDINGS.
Prefatory observations; Saxon foundations, lands, 96
possessions, &c.; cursory notice of the Conventual Churches,
Ancient Chapels, Chantries, and appropriate decoration of
the Sacred Buildings.
OLD ST. CHAD’S CHURCH.—Fall and account of the ancient
edifice, dawning light of the Reformation, first exercise of
the Protestant Religion, Bishop’s chancel, present remains
of the fabric.
NEW ST. CHAD’S.—Site, architectural description, chancel
window, monuments, bells, lecture, &c.
ST. MARY’S.—Interesting variety of the architecture, south
portal, noble effect of the interior, genealogical window of
stained glass, stone organ screen, biographical notice of
the Rev. J. B. Blakeway, transepts, curious font, chantry
chapels, monuments, bells, flight from the spire, &c.
ST. ALKMOND’S.—Demolition of the ancient church, modern
edifice, eastern window, elegance of spire, first mayor of
Shrewsbury, &c.
ST. JULIAN’S.—Present fabric, stained glass, monument to
Archdeacon Owen, &c. free lecture.
ST. MICHAEL’S PARISH WITHIN THE CASTLE.—Ancient history and
trial respecting, parochial limit, etymology of Derfald.
THE ABBEY CHURCH.—General description, fine west window,
north portal, solemnity of the interior, armorial bearings
and figures in stained glass, organ screen, font, ancient
cumbent effigies, altar tombs and monuments, old painting of
the Crucifixion.
ST. GILES’S CHURCH.—Antiquity of the structure, primitive
appearance of the interior, stained glass, sepulchral
stones, reflections and prospect from the cemetery.
ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH.—Western view, consecration, stained
glass, &c.
ST. GEORGE’S CHURCH.—Consecration, interior decoration, old
hospital, free chapel.
TRINITY CHURCH.—Foundation and description.
RELIGIOUS HOUSES.—Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, Spel-cross.
DISSENTING MEETING HOUSES.—Roman Catholic Chapel.
ROYAL FREE GRAMMAR SCHOOL.
Endowment, its state and pre-eminence, present to Dr. Butler 104
from his pupils, appointment of Dr. Kennedy, annual prizes,
royal visits, school buildings, chapel, library,
exhibitions, &c.
LOCAL GOVERNMENT, CHARTERS, &c.
Municipal Body; Ancient Seal; Sessions; Courts of Record and 111
Request; Members of Parliament; Trading Companies; Merchant
Guild; Pageant of Shrewsbury Show.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.
County Hall, Courts of Justice, Guild Hall and Exchequer, 130
Market House and Statue of Richard Duke of York, Old Welsh
Bridge, Old East or Stone Bridge, English Bridge, Lord
Hill’s Column and fine panoramic prospect, Town and County
Gaol, Poultry Market, Butter and Cheese Markets.
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.
Introduction; the Salop Infirmary, Eye and Ear Dispensary, 143
St. Giles’s Hospital, St. John’s Hospital, Drapers’
Almshouses, St. Chad’s Almshouses, House of Industry, Humane
Society; the Prison, Parochial, and Town Charities.
CHARITY SCHOOLS.
Bowdler’s or the Blue, Millington’s, Allatt’s, Public 147
Subscription, Lancasterian, St. Mary’s and St. Michael’s,
St. Chad’s Ladies’, Infant, and Sunday Schools.
WALK WITHIN THE WALLS.
Introduction; Market Square, Mercers’ Hall, the Sextry, 169
Shearmen’s Hall, Maypole Festivities, Occupation of
Shearmen, Wyle Cop, Residence of the early British Settlers
and the Saxons, Lion Hotel, Beeches Lane, Town Walls, the
Crescent, Ancient Tower, St. John’s Hill, the Austin Friars,
Initial Letter of a Charter from Edward III. the Welsh
Bridge, Quays and Warehouses, Mardol, Rowley’s Mansion,
Hill’s Lane, ancient Houses, the Bell Stone, Shutt Place,
Shoplatch, the Stalls, Ireland’s Mansion, Pride Hill, the
High Cross, Castle Street, St. Nicholas’s Chapel, the
Council House, Court of the Marches of Wales, Loyalty of
Thomas Lyster, Esq. Farquhar’s Recruiting Officer,
Character of Salopians, the Drapers’ Hall, Dogpole, Church
Street, Jones’s Mansion, view of an ancient timber House,
Butcher Row, Fish Street, Belmont, Judges’ House, ancient
College of St. Chad, Vaughan’s Place, Talbot Hotel.
LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS.
Natural History and Antiquarian Society, Subscription 171
Library, Choral Society, Horticultural Society, Mechanics’
Institution, Newspapers.
WALK WITHOUT THE WALLS.
Shrewsbury Quarry, Remains of Amphitheatre, Kingsland, 181
Stury’s Close, Grey or Franciscan Friary, Site of Alderman
Jones’s Mansion, Dominican Friary, ancient Vineyard, the
Water Gate, account of the Entrance of the Parliamentary
Army, River-side Walk, Derfald, Shrewsbury Park, Murder of
Prince Alfhelm, Canal, Prospect from the Gaol Terrace,
Howard-street, Colossal Figure of Hercules, Dana Walk,
Breidden Hills, the Town Walls.
RECREATIVE.
The Drama, Theatre, Circus, Horse Races, Assembly Room, 185
Salop Hunt, Angling, Aquatic Excursions.
THE SUBURBS—COTON HILL.
Water Works, Spring Water, the Royal Baths, Birth-place of 189
Admiral Benbow, Coton Hill, Site of St. Catharine’s Chapel,
Berwick, Ancient Course of the Severn, View from Cross Hill.
CASTLE FOREGATE.
Linen Factory, Canal (communicating with London, Liverpool, 180
&c), Coal Wharf.
SUBURB OF FRANKWELL.
Ancient Domestic Habitations, the Mount Fortification, Site 192
of Cadogan Chapel and Cross, Monk’s Eye, Township of
Shelton, Glendower’s Oak.
THE ABBEY FOREGATE.
Merivale, Monastic Remains, Ancient Stone Pulpit, Monks’ 201
Infirmary, Guest Hall or Hospitium, Site of Chapter House,
Earliest authorized Assembly of British Parliament, the New
Road, Reflections suggested by its formation, Abbey
Precinct, Destructive Fire, the White Hall, Race-ground,
Lord Hill’s Column, Sutton Spa, Analysis of the Water,
Anglo-Norman Church.
SUBURB OF COLEHAM.
Situation; Iron Foundry, notice of the Menai Bridge. 201
TRADE AND MANUFACTURES.
Welsh Webs and Flannel, Communication between London and 207
Dublin, Railway, Thread and Linen Yarns, Malting Business,
Restoration and Perfection of the ancient art of
Glass-staining, Shrewsbury Cakes, Brawn, eulogy of the Ale,
Markets, Fairs, and Navigation of the Severn.
THE ENVIRONS.
Variety of landscape scenery; Battlefield Church, Grinshill, 225
Hawkstone, Haughmond Abbey, Haughmond Hill, Village of
Uffington, Albrighton, Albright Hussey, Meole, Ancient
Encampment at Bayston, Condover, Pitchford, Acton Burnell,
Atcham, Longner, Attingham, Wroxeter (the Roman Uriconium),
The Wrekin.
[Picture: Vignette View of Shrewsbury]
Admir’d SALOPIA! that with venial pride
Eyes her bright form in Severn’s ambient wave;
Fam’d for her loyal cares in perils tried;
Her daughters lovely and her striplings brave.
SHENSTONE.
SITUATION.
“A precious stone set in silver.”
SHAKSPEARE.
THE Town of SHREWSBURY stands nearly in the centre of the county of which
it is the capital; it is situated on two gentle declivities, and is
formed by the river Severn into a peninsula, somewhat in the shape of a
horse-shoe, having an isthmus not more than three hundred yards across.
A variety of opinions have prevailed as to who made choice of the
commanding situation and natural retreat which the town affords, as well
as to the period of its foundation.
It has been stated to be of far prior date than the ancient Uriconium
(the present Wroxeter), from the circumstances that it was the custom of
the Romans to throw up stations, and to make roads parallel or adjacent
to British camps. One thing however is certain, that no vestige of that
imperial people has been discovered within its precinct.
The truth is conceived to be, that Shrewsbury was occupied or built some
time in the fifth century, after the destruction of the Roman Uriconium,
as a place where the fugitive Britons might find an asylum from the
devastations of their Saxon invaders.
ETYMOLOGY.
The Britons gave the place the appellation of _Pengwern_, the Saxons
_Scrobbes-byrig_; both are synonymous, importing a fenced eminence
covered with shrubs. The ancient Welsh called it, and do so to this day,
_Ammwythig_, signifying “The Delight.” The Normans _Sciropesberie_, and
subsequently _Salopesberie_ and _Schrosbury_, from whence is formed its
present name Shrewsbury and Salop. The antiquary Leland thus beautifully
accounts for its name:
Edita Pengwerni late fastigia splendent,
Urbs sita lunato veluti mediamnis in orbe,
Colle tumet modico; duplici quoque ponte superbit:
Accipiens patria sibi lingua nomen ab alnis.
which may be thus translated—
Built on a hill, fair SALOP greets the eye,
While Severn like an eel curves gliding by:
Two bridges cross the bark-conveying stream,
And British alders gave the town a name.
ANCIENT HISTORY.
When the Britons had become somewhat settled in their new possessions,
they built themselves a city, which (as has been already stated) was
called _Pengwern_. After its destruction under Cynddylan, we find
Pengwern inhabited by a King of Powis,—the capital of his kingdom, and
ranking among the twenty-eight cities of Britain.
Brochwel Yscithrog, or the tusked, King of Powis, whom the Saxon
Chronicle calls the Earlderman of the Britons, retained possession of a
great part of Shropshire, and fixed his residence in Pengwern, about 617;
his palace being where the ruins of Old St. Chad’s Church now stand.
Eliseg, his sixth descendant, recovered the portion of his “inheritance
of Powis” from the Saxons, by the sword, during the reign of the Mercian
King Offa, which continued from 755 to 794, but being unable to maintain
it, he surrendered by treaty to the Saxons, whereby Pengwern lost the
dignity of a metropolis.
Of the state of our town under its native princes we have no information:
the arts of civil life, in which the Britons had improved, under their
Roman masters, were probably lost during the almost constant warfare of
three centuries. This we may reasonably conclude was the case, from the
appellation given to it by the new possessors, _Scrobbes-byrig_, a fenced
eminence, but overgrown with shrubs.
Nothing is related of the town during the period it formed a portion of
the Mercian territory, though the place doubtless experienced the many
revolutions of that kingdom.
In the reign of Alfred, Scrobbes-byrig was numbered among the principal
cities of Britain. Ethelred the Unready, having been pursued by the
Danes, kept his Christmas here in 1006, and in the next year resigned the
government of Mercia unto his son-in-law Ædric, who made this town his
occasional his occasional residence.
Under the Saxon monarchs the town must have been of importance to possess
the privilege of a mint, which it retained for a considerable period,
many coins of which are extant.
Ædric Sylvaticus, or the Forester, in conjunction with Owen Gwynedd,
Prince of North Wales, laid siege to the town in 1068; but William the
First sending two earls to the relief of the castle, the rebels burned a
portion of the town and withdrew: the king however speedily revenged the
insult with much slaughter.
The Saxons were removed from all places of trust by the Norman Conqueror,
who rewarded his principal adherents with portions of their lands. He
conferred upon his kinsman, Roger de Montgomery, the earldom of
Shrewsbury, to which he added a grant of the town and ample domains in
the county.
In 1138, the nation being divided as to Stephen’s right to the crown,
that monarch laid siege to the castle. Fitz Alan, the governor,
favouring the Empress Maud, fled, and Stephen, who had conducted the
siege in his own person, was so exasperated at the obstinacy of the
besieged, who resolutely held out nearly four weeks, that he put
ninety-three of them to an ignominious death.
From the border situation of Shrewsbury to a hostile country, it was
considered of much importance to our early monarchs, and consequently
became the scene of many a negotiation and contest with the Welsh, whose
frequent incursions were most harassing.
The Princes of North Wales having been long uneasy neighbours to the
Kings of England, John thought it expedient to hold a council here to
make a treaty with Llewelyn the Great, the then Prince of Wales. In the
year 1202 the king gave Llewelyn his natural daughter Joanna in marriage;
and, as if in gratitude to his father-in-law, he soon recommenced
hostilities against him, and marched with a numerous body of his vigorous
subjects from the Cambrian wilds to Shrewsbury, which he succeeded in
taking without much resistance.
The town, however, did not long continue under the subjection or
possession of its new masters, they being dispossessed by Henry III. who
on more than one occasion kept his court here.
In 1234, Richard, Earl Marescall, being told that Henry intended to seize
him when he repaired to parliament, fled to Llewelyn, and they both
appeared before Shrewsbury with a powerful army, and burned part of the
suburb of Frankwell, returning to the mountains laden with the spoil of
the inhabitants, many of whom they had barbarously murdered.
Henry III. with his forces again marched to Shrewsbury in 1241, where he
remained a fortnight, when David relinquished all lands Llewelyn had
seized from the late king in the war between him and his barons.
In 1256, Henry, wishing probably to attach himself in the favour of the
burgesses, in order to make their town a bulwark against Wales, granted
them two new charters on the same day; he likewise summoned his army
here; and in 1260 great activity was evinced in fortifying the town, in
consequence of a rupture which was speedily expected from the aggression
of the Welsh Prince.
Edward the First resided here in 1277, whither he transferred some of the
supreme courts of justice. In 1282 David joined Llewelyn, who again took
up arms, which compelled Edward to return to Shrewsbury with his courts,
where he had assembled his army, which remained some months.
David, the last of the princes of the Ancient Britons, having at length
become a prisoner in the hands of Edward in 1283, was sent in chains to
Shrewsbury, where a parliament was assembled to meet Sept. 30th, being
“_the first national convention in which the Commons had any share by
legal authority_.” Twenty cities and towns, Shrewsbury being one, were
directed to send two deputies, and every high sheriff to send two
knights. It is supposed they met in the chapter house, or refectory of
the abbey, where David was tried and cruelly condemned to be dragged at a
horse’s tail through the streets of Shrewsbury, and to be afterwards hung
and cut down while alive, his heart and bowels burnt before his face, his
body quartered, and his head sent to London to accompany that of his
brother Llewelyn.
Revenge, it may be said, is sweet; but how often does it occur that the
gratification of resentment over a fallen enemy transmits his encomium to
posterity.
The town, being strongly fenced, was visited by Edward in 1322, where he
was honourably received by the inhabitants, who went out to meet him clad
in armour; he continued here for several days, about which time many of
the nobility had assembled to witness a grand tournament.
Richard II. Jan. 29th, 1397–8, adjourned his parliament from Westminster
to Shrewsbury, which was denominated the “GREAT PARLIAMENT,” from the
important state affairs which were transacted in it. The cross of
Canterbury was brought here, upon which the lords spiritual and temporal
were sworn to observe and keep all the statutes which were then made.
Chester was on this occasion made a principality, and several oppressive
laws enacted, which afterwards formed some of the accusations against
Richard by Henry of Bolingbroke, when he usurped the throne.
The revolution which placed Henry of Lancaster on the throne seems to
have met the approbation of the inhabitants; for when the Duke ostensibly
proceeded into Wales to please Richard, he was nobly received here.
After the death of Richard, Owen Glendower, concerning whose birth the
muse of Shakespeare says—
“The frame and foundation of the earth
Shak’d like a coward”—
asserted his pretensions to the two ancient principalities of North Wales
and Powis, and pursued his claim with undaunted courage, added to a
strong resentment for the contumely with which his demands, public and
private, had been treated by the successor of the unfortunate Richard, to
whom he was a firm and unshaken friend. On the 20th of September, 1400,
he boldly caused himself to be proclaimed Prince of Wales, and infested
the Marches with a strong body of Welshmen, who maintained a warfare
against the governing authorities. In this he was subsequently supported
by the Earl of Northumberland, headed by his son, the valiant Henry
Percy, surnamed Hotspur, who being assisted by the Earl of Worcester and
a numerous force of Scottish troops under the command of Earl Douglas,
agreed to meet Glendower at Shrewsbury. Henry, being made acquainted
with their movements, hastened with all speed to secure this important
town, and arrived here July 21st, 1403, just in time to hoist his banner
on the walls, and thereby secure the stability of his crown, having but a
few hours’ march of Percy and his advanced guard.
On the morning of the 22d, the memorable BATTLE OF SHREWSBURY commenced;
the skirmishing began under the walls of the Castle Gates, but the
principal scene of action was about three miles distant, at a place
called BATTLEFIELD. The armies on both sides amounted, it is said, to
40,000, and the contest was severe and sanguinary. Fate, however,
decided that the efforts of Henry against this powerful faction should be
victorious—a faction, which, having contributed to place him on the seat
of government, now sought to dethrone him. The king is recorded to have
fought with an ardour worthy the crown he was defending, and the spear of
his warlike son, the future hero of Agincourt, did wonders. In fact it
was one of the most decisive battles recorded in early English history.
Upwards of 2000 nobles, knights, and gentlemen, and 6000 private
soldiers, are said to have fallen in the engagement.
Most of the dead bodies were buried on the spot, over whom Henry, in
gratitude for his victory, piously erected a college of secular canons to
pray for the souls of the slain. The more distinguished were interred in
the Dominican and Augustine Friaries of the town.
The gallant Hotspur was discovered among the slain covered with wounds,
and dispatched to Shrewsbury, where Henry satiated his revenge by the
ignominy of dismembering the lifeless remains, the head and quarters of
which were exhibited over the gate at York, and afterwards delivered to
his wife for interment. The Earl of Worcester, Sir Richard Vernon, &c.
were beheaded.
Shakspeare, in his Henry the Fourth, has given vividness and immortality
to this battle, and humourously peopled it with heroes of the most
fanciful description.
The Cambrian chieftain, Glendower, with an army of 12,000 men, marched as
far as Oswestry, and was by some means unable to arrive in time to join
in the action; for had he reached ere the king’s forces were victorious,
the result might have terminated very differently for the king and his
valiant son. Gough states a tradition, that Glendower proceeded to
Shelton, and ascended a lofty oak (the trunk of which is still remaining
near the Oswestry road), from whence he might reconnoitre and gain the
earliest intelligence of the event of the battle.
The royal blood of this noble Welshman was in no respect chilled by the
defeat of his confederates, for in the next year he carried his ravages
even to the gates of the Welsh Bridge, destroying much of the suburb of
Frankwell and several townships in the vicinity.
In 1460, Edward IV. marched with an army of 23,000 men from this town to
the battle of Mortimer’s Cross, and he chose this place for the residence
of his queen, where she was delivered of her second and third sons,
Richard and George Plantagenet.
On the landing of the Earl of Richmond, afterwards King Henry the
Seventh, at Milford Haven, in August, 1485, he determined to march for
Shrewsbury. On his arriving at the Welsh Bridge he found the place in a
posture of defence, the gates closed against him, and the bailiffs within
ready to give their answer. On his demanding admittance as their
rightful king, a curious MS. records that the chief bailiff, Thomas
Mytton, replied—“He knew no king but Richard, whose bailiffs he and his
fellow were, upon which he swore that the earl should not enter there but
over his belly.” On this, Richmond returned and passed the night at
Forton Heath, where his army was encamped. He, however, succeeded the
next morning; and Mr. Mytton, in order to conform with the letter of his
oath, laid himself down on the ground, and permitted the earl to step
over him, whereupon the portcullis of the bridge was drawn up, and the
earl with his retinue were admitted, to the general joy of the
inhabitants, notwithstanding it went _against the stomach_ of the “stoute
wyse gentilman, Maister Myttoon.”
In Shrewsbury Richmond was first proclaimed king, and raised soldiers,
but left the bailiffs to pay them. He lodged in a house on the Wyle Cop
(three doors below the Lion Inn), from whence he marched to Bosworth
Field, where the engagement took place which deprived Richard III. of his
throne and his life.
Henry VII. visited the town in 1490, with his queen, and son (Prince
Arthur), and kept the feast of St. George in the collegiate church of St.
Chad; they made another visit in 1495, and were sumptuously entertained
by the corporation.
At the general dissolution of monasteries, in 1539, it appears to have
been the intention of Henry VIII. to form thirteen new bishopricks, {10}
one of which was to have been at Shrewsbury. Browne Willis states that
John Boucher, Abbot of Leicester, was actually nominated “BISHOP OF
SHREWSBURY;”—hence the tradition, as our historians remark, so gratifying
to the pride of every true Salopian, that their forefathers had the offer
of having their borough converted into a city, but that they preferred
inhabiting the FIRST OF TOWNS.
1551. The spring of this year was fatally distinguished by the
commencement of a dreadful epidemic in this town, called the “sweating
sickness.”
During the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Sir Henry Sidney, President of Wales
and Lord Deputy of Ireland, visited this town almost annually, and was
always received with the highest respect; his celebrated son, Sir Philip,
was educated at our Free Schools. Sir Henry, as Knight of the Garter,
kept the feast of St. George here, in 1581, with great splendour. He
marched in state from his residence, the Council House, to St. Chad’s
Church, the stalls of which were decorated with the arms of the knights,
divine service being “sung by note.” On the 1st of May, the four masters
of the schools entertained his lordship with a costly banquet, and on the
following day three hundred and sixty of the scholars assembled in the
“Gay,” several of whom addressed him in speeches. He departed on the
8th, by water, “taking his bardge under the Castle,” when another pageant
took place on the island near the Horse Ferry.
Shrewsbury was a favourite retreat for Charles I. during the troublous
period of his reign, and he was frequently received by the inhabitants
with every feeling of loyalty and attachment. He established a mint
here, and kept his court at the Council House. In the year 1642, he drew
up his army on a spot afterwards called the “SOLDIER’S PIECE,” and which
is now used as a race ground, where he delivered an harangue to them and
the chief gentlemen of the county, who had in his time of need rendered
him pecuniary assistance and service.
The town was taken by storm in 1644–5, under the command of Colonels
Mytton and Bowyer, of the parliamentary army, the inhabitants
experiencing all the vicissitudes of a siege, in the plunder of their
goods and destruction of property. An attempt was made, in 1654, to
surprise it, in favour of the restoration of monarchy, by Sir Thomas
Harries, but the scheme, although deeply planned, was frustrated.
James II. in the month of August, 1687, kept his Court at the Council
House, and was attended by many of the nobility and gentry of the county,
on which occasion, it is said, “the conduits ran with wine,” and other
most liberal entertainments and rejoicings welcomed the royal guest. At
the same time he graciously received a purse of one hundred guineas,
which was presented to him by the munificence of the corporation.
The inhabitants on many occasions have been thus foremost to testify
loyalty to their sovereign.
In 1715 their adherence to the House of Hanover was strongly manifested
by voluntarily raising a body of horse and foot for the protection of the
town, and placing the walls and gates (then entire) in a position of
defence.
At the time also apprehensions were entertained of the Pretender and the
Scottish invasion in 1745, a regiment of foot was raised here for the
service of government; and, subsequently, a militia and cavalry have been
embodied.
In the year 1832, the most lively enthusiasm was displayed on the
entrance into Shrewsbury of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent and
the Princess Victoria, heir presumptive to the British throne.
From the foregoing cursory glance given to the leading events of our
ancient history, it may be necessary to remark that it would have been
less difficult to the writer could he have extended his observations as
to particular occurrences; but the nature of the work being a notice of
the _present_ rather than of the _past_ state of the place, brevity of
description in this, as in some other portions, will be indispensible.
But the numerous features of historical and antiquarian interest which
the town affords, its BRITISH and SAXON state, the destiny of its NORMAN
EARLS, its SIEGE BY STEPHEN, the UNION OF WALES to the English Crown, the
Formation of Parliaments, the BATTLE OF SHREWSBURY and Fall of Hotspur,
the numerous VISITS OF ROYALTY, the Entrance and PROCLAMATION OF HENRY
VII. the Commencement of the CIVIL WAR in the Time of Charles I. and
Meetings of the COUNCIL OF THE MARCHES OF WALES, while forming
constituent parts of our national story, are especially connected with
this town, and will be found amply detailed in the valuable History of
Shrewsbury published by the late Reverend Messrs. Owen and Blakeway,
where everything difficult in civil and ecclesiastical localities is
explained in a scientific and masterly manner, and with the greatest
discrimination.
THE CASTLE.
“But time * * *
Has seen this ruin’d pile complete,
Big with the vanity of state.”
DYER.
The civil history of the town being somewhat connected with the Castle, a
notice of that edifice will properly occupy this place.
After the Earldom of Shrewsbury had been given by William the Conqueror
to Roger de Montgomery, one of his first works was the building of a
stately Castle, or, rather, the enlargement of a previous one, which it
is certain existed here anterior to the Norman Conquest, on that narrow
isthmus where the town is undefended by the river.
This is supposed to have taken place about the year 1070, on a site
previously occupied by fifty-one houses, and was a measure of necessity,
in order to restrain the hostile incursions of the Welsh, to which the
town, from its situation near the borders, was frequently exposed; and
having probably received injury from the siege two years previous, and
being also limited in size, was inadequate to the dignity of a wealthy
earl, who enjoyed the feudal supremacy of nearly the whole of Shropshire.
The Castle, in succession, was possessed by the two sons of the founder,
until the reign of Henry I. when it became a royal fortress, under the
custody of a constable.
Edward I. introduced a new style of castellated architecture; the
stronger portion, therefore, now remaining was probably erected by
direction of that monarch, being in the style generally adopted during
his reign.
On the union of Wales it was no longer important as a place of defence,
and the building began gradually to decay, although in the civil war it
was repaired and garrisoned for the king, and afterwards escaped the
almost general demolition of royal fortresses by its surrender to the
parliamentary army in 1645.
The Castle subsequently reverted to the burgesses, who resigned it to
Charles II. and that monarch presented it to Lord Newport. It is now the
property of the Duke of Cleveland, and is occupied by J. C. Pelham, Esq.
one of the members for the borough.
The present remains have a picturesque effect, and are composed of a deep
red stone. They consist of the keep, the walls of the inner court, and
the great semi-circular arch of
THE INTERIOR GATEWAY,
from which the last Norman Earl of Shrewsbury issued with the keys of the
gates to make submission to Henry I. Although the masonry of the jambs
of this noble gateway is singularly irregular, it has, through a period
of nearly 800 years, retained its strength unshaken amid the ravages of
time and war. It was formerly defended by a portcullis and towers.
The keep consists of two large round towers, embattled and pierced,
connected by a square building of about 100 feet in length.
[Picture: Gateway of Castle]
The interior is much altered from its original appearance, and now forms
a handsome private residence, modern pointed windows having been placed
therein when it was repaired by Sir William Pulteney, about the close of
the last century. The drawing room is supposed to have been the guard
chamber in the time of Charles I. The castle still retains one mark of
its ancient dignity, for in the area of the inner court the knights of
the shire are nominated, and when the result of the election is declared,
are girt with their swords by the Sheriff. On the north-east side of
this court is a postern, built in the time of Charles I.; and the
battlements of the western wall have an interior platform, and are
curiously pierced with narrow eyelets for the convenience of the
cross-bowmen, around which time has wove its ivy mantling.
On the south side within the court is a mount, {16} rising upwards of 100
feet above the bed of the river. The summit is surrounded by a wall, and
crowned by a watch tower, which forms a bold and beautiful object. The
tower was rebuilt during the repair of the castle, from a design and
under the superintendance of the late Thomas Telford, Esq. who was then
residing with Sir William Pulteney. In this elevated tower Mr. Telford
wrote the beautiful poem to his countryman Burns, and thus alludes to its
site near the river Severn:—
No distant Swiss with warmer glow
E’er heard his native music flow,
Nor could his wishes stronger grow
Than still have mine;
When up this ancient mount I go
With songs of thine.
The sides of the mount are richly planted, and the summit commands a view
of unrivalled beauty, with the most extensive amphitheatre of mountains
of which perhaps the island can boast, inclosing within its wide sweep an
eminently fertile, finely wooded, and beautifully diversified champagne
country. ’Tis here that, after the eye has wandered from object to
object, from the foreground to the most extreme distance with delight,
that the words of _Cowper_ naturally occur, as if written upon such as
spot—
“Oh, scene surpassing fable, and yet true!”
It is now difficult to form an adequate idea of the original extent of
this fortress; but it is certain that the castle formerly occupied a much
larger space than is now marked out by its walls, the ballium (or outer
court) extending within the town probably as far as the water-lane. The
northern and north eastern sides were defended by a deep ditch or vallum
encompassing the base of the bold and natural elevation on which the
castle stands, having a communication with the river, but it is now
filled up and forms a thoroughfare.
The remains of a duplicate rampart is distinguishable on the western
side; and other outworks and towers might have stood near the front of
the present county gaol, the Severn being a protection towards the east.
In auncient tyme our elders had desire,
To buyld their townes on steepe and stately hill;
To shewe that as their hearts did still aspyre,
So should their works declare their worthie will.
CHURCHYARD.
THE FEUDAL STATE
of Shrewsbury carries with it associations of imposing importance;—seated
upon a hill rising from a noble ambient river, it was thus doubly
fortified by nature; while art, with no unsparing hand, had raised an
almost impregnable rampart of stone, flanked by many towers and gates.
{18}
The imagination will thus readily picture CAER PENGWERN: the woody
eminence, with its curiously wrought buildings and domestic mansions
ranged in irregular groups, surmounted by lofty spires and embattled
turrets, irradiated by the effulgence of the meridian sun, or catching
the last smiles of his departing ray,—a commanding castle on the narrow
isthmus, with its stately towers and formidable walls, frowning in august
pride high above the surrounding plain,—solitary convents, crested with
pinnacles and gables, in the verdant meadows on the margin of the rolling
stream, over which strongly fortified bridges with massive portcullis and
towers, afforded a defence from hostile invaders.
This faint retrospect must kindle in the mind considerations of the
progress and fluctuations of science and taste,—the character, condition,
and habits of men in these times,—with the works done “in their days and
in the old time before them;”—while the contemplation thereof cannot fail
of exciting gratitude to the SUPREME GIVER, for the security we _now_
enjoy, without the precaution of barbican and battlements.
PRESENT STATE.
“A lovely spot
For all that life can ask! Salubrious! mild!
Its hills are green; its woods and prospects fair;
Its meadows fertile!”
COTTLE’S ALFRED.
The hold situation of the town, girdled by the health-bearing breezes of
a beauteous river, with an eminence crown’d by aspiring temples,
That upward cast their golden vanes, and shine
A bright tiara,
gives a striking and majestic appearance to Shrewsbury.
When seen from most parts of the adjacent country the town forms a
delightful object,—a gem encircled by a paradise;—new beauties and
charming views being continually produced by the pre-eminent spires and
towers; whilst the effect in the background is much heightened by an
extensive range of noble mountains, which diversify the prospect, and add
interest to the rich and picturesque landscape.
The exterior of the town is in most parts separated from the river by a
portion of garden and meadow ground, skirted by a line of genteel houses,
which command delightful prospects of the adjoining country.
As a place of residence Shrewsbury has long been considered highly
eligible, from its elevated and beautiful situation, the salubrity and
general healthfulness of its air, the natural dryness of the soil, the
agreeable drives and promenades by which it is surrounded, and (what is
equally important) the excellence and purity of its water.
Many parts of the environs have been justly recommended as suitable to
valetudinarians who may visit Shrewsbury from North Wales and other
parts, to avail themselves of the able medical assistance which it
possesses, and who are, as it were, enticed by the agreeableness and
variety of the scenery to a salutary and necessary exercise.
The interior of the town presents several curious and interesting
specimens of the domestic architecture of our ancestors; the projecting
bay windows, fanciful antique carving, mouldings, &c. display a singular
appearance in contrast with the more modern habitations, in many of which
the taste of their respective proprietors is effectively evinced.
The streets, as in most other ancient towns, are irregularly formed, and
several of them, it must be admitted, are inconveniently narrow. Many
important alterations have however been made, under the provisions of an
act obtained in 1821, for removing obstructions, watching, lighting, and
the general improvement of the town, the powers of which are vested in
trustees, who must be persons occupying property rated at £50 per annum
to the street assessment, or worth £2000 above reprizes and resident
within the town, or resident and receiving rents to the amount of £80 per
annum, or non-resident and receiving rents from premises within the town
worth £100 per annum, from whom a committee of management of nine
individuals is selected, three of whom retire annually by rotation; and
it has been remarked by one of the first members of this committee,
“_that if judiciously chosen and faithful to their trust_, _our town may
in time assume its due place among the cities of the empire_.”
In 1820 a company was established, with a capital of £8000, raised in 800
shares of £10 each, to supply the town with gas.
POPULATION.
The following official return of the population of the five parishes in
Shrewsbury is according to the census ordered by government in 1831:—
Parishes. Houses. Males. Females. Total.
St. Chad 1583 3496 4224 7720
St. Mary 1080 3087 3033 6120
St. Alkmond 356 820 958 1778
St. Julian 676 1413 1583 2996
Holy Cross 337 656 821 1477
& St. Giles
Total population 20,091
ECCLESIASTICAL BUILDINGS.
The public structures devoted to the service of Religion are among the
first objects that excite the attention, whilst by many they are not
unfrequently looked upon with peculiar feelings of veneration and regard.
If the source of this feeling were traced, it would be found connected
with those principles and associations which every one who acknowledges
an all-bountiful Creator, or wishes well to his country, would desire to
cherish.
Shrewsbury, we learn, did not receive much improvement from its original
inhabitants, the Britons; yet what it lost in nominal consequence as the
metropolis of a kingdom it ultimately gained in external splendour and
real importance: this is evinced, among other proofs, by the erection of
five ecclesiastical foundations, all of which were anterior to the Norman
conquest, and originated in Saxon piety.
Among the earliest of these may be mentioned SAINT CHAD’S, which is
ascribed to one of the Mercian kings, who is said to have converted the
palace of the kings of Powis into a church, about 780.
A dean and ten prebendaries or secular canons, with two vicars choral,
under the patronage of the Bishop of Lichfield, are stated to have been
placed here at a very remote period.
Under the Anglo-Saxon monarchs this college possessed twelve hides of
arable land, or as much as paid for 1440 acres to what would be now
called the land-tax; which, by proper cultivation, appears from the
Survey of Domesday to have increased more than double. Other estates
were subsequently added, which form now only insulated districts of the
parish.
By the act of 1 Edward VI. 1547, the College was dissolved, the tythes
and profits at that time being of the clear yearly value of about £50.
The buildings and estates were leased out, reserving only the small
stipend of £4. 6s. 8d. for the parish minister, charged on the dean’s
prebendal estate at Onslow.
Although a lease was granted of the tythes, yet only two years afterwards
the greater portion of them were appropriated by Edward VI. in aid of the
Free Grammar School.
In 1579 Queen Elizabeth granted the remaining possessions of the deanery
to Sir Christopher Hatton; but the corporation and parish seem to have
presented to the living from 1583 until 1658–9, from which time the
patronage has rested with the crown.
SAINT ALKMUND’S CHURCH owes its foundation to the piety of Ethelfleda,
daughter of Alfred the Great, soon after she succeeded to the sovereignty
of the Mercian territory in 912.
Her great nephew, King Edgar, being of the race of the Northumbrian
Prince Alkmund, increased the original endowment, and (under the
direction of Archbishop Dunstan) appointed a dean and ten prebends.
In the reign of Edward the Confessor, this College possessed eleven
manors, nine of which, containing upwards of 4000 acres, it retained at
the Norman survey.
After experiencing many of the fluctuations common to property, sacred or
otherwise, during the dark ages and under lawless government, these
estates were at length alienated in 1147, at the particular request of
the Dean, Richard de Belemis, and with the consent of King Stephen and
Pope Eugenius III. to the monastery of Lilleshull, which the dean’s
brother, Philip de Belemis, had just commenced, the Prebendaries however
taking care to reserve to themselves a life interest in their several
stipends.
The college being thus early dissolved and deprived of its valuable
estates, fell into a humble vicarage, which remained in the patronage of
the monks of Lilleshull until the dissolution, when it lapsed to the
crown, in whose hands it continued until 1628, when Rowland Heylin, Esq.
{23} of Pentreheylin, Montgomeryshire, purchased the advowson for the
“feoffees of St. Antholines,” a society instituted for founding
lectureships and augmenting small livings in populous towns.
This society having been publicly denounced, and the orthodoxy of its
principles questioned, the ministers of King James, in 1663, directed its
suppression, when the living again reverted to the crown.
THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ST. MARY is considered to have been founded by
King Edgar, about the year 980; although, from the extensive limits of
the parish, it is probable this was only the renovation of an older
church destroyed by the ravages of the Danes, who, in revenging the
slaughter of their predecessors, not only exercised their warfare against
mankind, but even those works of ingenuity and labour which were
consecrated to devotion did not escape their desolating hand.
In the time of Edward the Confessor, this college possessed an estate of
nearly 1300 acres, “for the maintenance of a dean, seven prebendaries,
and a parish priest,” which appears to have diminished in point of
cultivation and consequent value at the survey of Domesday, in which,
however, the “vill of Chorleton,” held in conjunction with the church of
St. Juliana, is unnoticed, having probably been acquired afterwards.
At the suppression of colleges the revenue was £42, when Edward VI.
appropriated the greater part of the tithes of this, as he had done those
of St. Chad’s parish, to the bailiffs and burgesses, for the foundation
of a free school.
This church from very remote times has been a “royal free chapel,” and
thereby exempt from the jurisdiction of the bishop.
THE CHURCH OF ST. JULIANA.—Little is known of this, further than its
origin was Saxon, and that it held in the Norman survey “half a hide of
land in the city.” Soon after this period it became distinguished as a
rectory and royal free chapel, and was early united to the church of St.
Michael within the Castle, now destroyed. {24}
In 1410, Henry IV. annexed both of these churches to his college at
Battlefield; and being thus deprived of its property, St. Julian’s became
no better than a curacy.
THE CHURCH OF ST. PETER, called “_The Parish of the City_,” was a small
structure of wood, built about Edward the Confessor’s time, by Siward, a
Saxon nobleman, and stood on the site where Earl Roger de Montgomery
founded a large Benedictine Abbey in 1083, which was re-dedicated to St.
Peter, and endowed with a small portion of the vast possessions granted
by the Conqueror to the first Earl of Shrewsbury.
This venerable warrior being seized with illness while residing in the
castle he had lately built here,—apprehensive, too, that his dissolution
might not be far distant,—and “to be sure of paradise,”—determined, with
the consent of his countess Adelissa, to retire from the world, and
become a monk within the confines of his own monastery.
This resolution he acted upon July 14th, 1094: and dying three days
afterwards, obtained honourable interment in the “Lady Chapel” of that
pile he had zealously commenced, and,
“By skill of earthly architect,”
nearly completed, to the service and honour of his Maker.
Hugh, his second son, surnamed Probus for his courage, and Goch (or the
Red) by the Welshmen from his complexion, succeeded to the earldom, and
in filial affection came with his barons to the abbey, to visit his
father’s tomb; when he confirmed all former endowments, and gave many
additional privileges, to which several of his barons added estates. {26}
Scarcely a century had elapsed from its foundation, before the monastery
possessed “seventy-one distinct grants of manors or lands, twenty-four
churches, the tithes of thirty-seven parishes or vills,” besides many
extensive immunities of various descriptions, and an almost matchless
collection of unique relics, in addition to the remains of that popular
“martyr,” St. Wenefreda, which the monks procured, after many tedious
negociations, from the priests and inhabitants of Gwytherin, in the
county of Denbigh, in order to increase the celebrity of their house.
After their translation hither, they were enshrined with much pomp near
the high altar, and attracted multitudes of pilgrims, whose benefactions
greatly contributed to the emolument of the church.
The abbot of this monastery had the honour of a seat in Parliament, and
the authority of a bishop within his house. Of the 608 monasteries that
existed in this kingdom at the time of the dissolution, it is recorded
“the Abbey of Shrewsbury was 34th in opulence.”
According to the valor of 26th Henry VIII. the annual income was £572.
15s. 5d. a revenue considered equal to about £4750 of modern currency.
The surrender of this abbey took place 24th January, 1539–40, when the
estates and buildings immediately passed into lay hands.
ST. GILES’S CHURCH was built early in the reign of Henry I. for the
service of a hospital of lepers, which stood at the west end of the
present edifice.
It is supposed to have become parochial about the middle of the fifteenth
century, on being united with the parish of Holy Cross within the
monastery, the abbot and convent, no doubt, having previously possessed
the patronage and appointment of master.
Subsequent to these, were erected three large conventual churches and
eight smaller chapels, all of which shared the fate of the dissolution;
and of their remains the ceaseless operations of time and the hand of man
have spared but few traces.
Several chantries, altars, &c. were also maintained by private donations
in these churches; and whether we consider the munificence, the piety, or
the superstition which raised them, we must respect the fervency towards
a good cause, and regret that so much zeal was blessed with such little
knowledge of the truths which, under our reformed religion, we now so
happily enjoy.
From this cursory view of the piety of our forefathers, it may be justly
asserted, that in the present day there is no provincial town in the
kingdom, considering its extent, where so much has been done to promote
the cause of religion, and to give a suitable effect to buildings set
apart for Divine Worship, as in Shrewsbury. Those individuals,
therefore, whose taste and liberality have mainly contributed to the
accomplishment of this praiseworthy object, are deserving of the best
thanks of their cotemporaries; and to them posterity will owe a debt of
admiring gratitude, in those pleasing feelings of awe which insensibly
steal o’er the mind while contemplating the architectural beauties of
temples dedicated to HIM, whose greatness as far exceeds the capacity of
human thought as doth the immensity of space the smallest atom.
Our survey of these interesting buildings will commence, in chronological
arrangement, with
THE OLD CHURCH OF ST. CHAD.
[Picture: Remains of Old St. Chad’s Church]
“In midst of towne fower Parish Churches are,
Full nere and close, together note that right:
For they doe seeme a true love knot to sight.”
These quaint lines of our native poet Churchyard, with the illustrative
vignette, describe the situation which the spacious cruciform church of
Old Saint Chad occupied on the southern eminence of the town.
The period of its early foundation has been already alluded to, and the
nearly total destruction of the fabric was occasioned by workmen having
very injudiciously commenced under-building (contrary to the advice of an
experienced architect,) one of the pillars that supported the large
central tower, which had shrunk considerably from graves having been
carelessly made too close to its foundations. The slight vibration
occasioned by the chimes proclaiming their matin tune at four o’clock, on
July 9th, 1788, caused the decayed pillar to give way, when the ponderous
tower rent asunder, and with the heavy peal of bells it contained,
falling on the roofs of the nave and transepts; crushed those parts of
the edifice into ruinous desolation, producing a scene of horrid
confusion more easily to be imagined than described. The masons had a
narrow but fortunate escape, and were only waiting at the adjoining house
of the sexton for the keys of the church, to pursue their misdirected
scheme of economy.
The event excited a great consternation in the town, and the exemplary
vicar, the Rev. Thomas Stedman, addressed an affectionate pastoral letter
to his parishioners on the improvement that should be made of so
remarkable an interposition of Providence, which occurred at a time when
not a single person was within the reach of any injury from it.
Before the church fell, apprehensions were entertained that some fatal
consequences might follow, from the appearances of decay in different
parts of the building; these fears, however, were comparatively slight,
and no immediate danger expected. But after the event took place it was
found that the shattered state of the edifice was such, that instead of
exciting surprise that it should fall when it did, there were just
grounds for amazement that it should have stood so long. Had the decayed
state of the building been thoroughly understood before it gave way, the
probable opinion would have been, that whenever the disaster happened, it
would be at a time when the effects of it might have been dreadful to
many;—as when the greatest weight was in the galleries, or when the tower
had been shaken by the motion of the bells. Only a month previous, 3000
persons, it is considered, were assembled in the church to witness the
interment of an officer under military honours.
The old church was a majestic edifice, erected in the reign of Henry III.
in the style when the round Norman arches were giving way to the
beautiful lancet style. In 1393 the roofs and tower, with the wooden
spire covered with lead, were destroyed by a calamitous fire, occasioned
by the negligence of a plumber while repairing the leads. The damage
being considerable, Richard II. granted to the inhabitants a remission of
their fee-farm rent, and certain other taxes, towards the re-edification.
From the fragments of Saxon sculpture discovered in portions of the walls
after the fall of the late fabric, the edifice which preceded it must
have been considerably adorned.
The dawning light of the Reformation in Shrewsbury first beamed in this
church in 1407, by William Thorpe, a priest and disciple of the doctrines
promulgated by Wickliff. This Salopian reformer, in a sermon before the
bailiffs on the third Sunday after Easter, boldly, preached against the
prevailing and favourite tenets of the Romish church; for his temerity he
was thrown into the prison of the town, by command of the local
authorities, where he remained about a month, and was afterwards removed
to Lambeth for examination before the archbishop, the bailiffs preferring
the charge of heresy and schism against him.
The conduct of Thorpe before his spiritual superior was decent and
respectful, but at the same time he remained zealous in his vindication
of scripture, and firm in support of that which he considered the
truth,—thus intrepidly answering the archbishop, “I’ll tell you at one
word, I dare not from the dread of God submit unto you, notwithstanding
the tenure and sentence that you have rehearsed to me.” He was
accordingly sent back to prison: his subsequent fate is nowhere recorded,
but it is conjectured on good grounds he was liberated after the death of
the archbishop, so that what Fox has asserted of his having died a martyr
to hard usage is probably incorrect.
The exercise of the Protestant religion in this town also began in this
church in 1573, under the direction of the Bishop of Lichfield and the
Lord President of the Marches, as special commissioners from Queen
Elizabeth.
The portion of the ruins now remaining stood south of the choir, and
formed a chantry chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary; after the
Reformation it was called the Bishop’s Chancel, from the circumstance of
its being used at the visitations of the bishop and archdeacon. The two
wide semi-circular arches (now walled up) separated it from the transepts
and choir. On the outside north wall are three stone stalls having
pointed arches, the concaves of which are groined; these originally
adjoined the high altar, and formed the seats of the priest, deacon, and
sub-deacon, during a part of the high mass. The east and south sides
display two mullioned windows; one adjoining the newel staircase in the
south-west pier, which once led to the belfry is of an earlier design
than the rest, and was probably introduced when the building was repaired
in 1496; the others have elegant trefoiled tracery, and were erected in
1571, when the chapel was nearly rebuilt by Humphrey Onslow, Esq. to the
dilapidations of which he appears to have been liable by the lease
granted to him of the deanery when the dissolution of the college was
anticipated in 1542–3.
The interior has an oak panelled ceiling, and contains a few monumental
tablets and hatchments, most of the ancient memorials having been removed
on the fall of the church to other places.
This chapel is now used as a daily parochial school, and for reading the
burial service connected with the spacious cemetery in which it stands.
Among the monuments is one to the memory of that excellent man, the Rev.
JOB ORTON, V.D.M. who “being dead, yet speaketh,” in the forcible
discourses and truly admirable writings he has left behind. He was the
friend and biographer of Doddridge, and died 16th July, 1783, aged 66.
His remains were interred at his request in the grave of the Rev. J.
Bryan, M.A. an ejected minister from this church.
A humble gravestone near the railway leading towards Belmont records the
death of Capt. JOHN BENBOW, who was shot at the Castle, Oct. 16th, 1651,
for his attachment to the cause of King Charles the Second.
Several members of ancient families and distinguished individuals
connected with the town and county, received interment in this church.
Among these may be mentioned those of CORBET, MYTTON, BURTON, OWEN,
LYSTER, and IRELAND.
ROWLAND LEE, Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, and Lord President of the
Marches, was buried here. He died Jan. 27th, 1542–3, at the College, the
residence of his brother, Sir George Lee, who was the last dean of the
church.
THE NEW CHURCH OF SAINT CHAD
is erected on a beautiful site near the Quarry, and, considering the
disadvantages of form which preclude the possibility of much
architectural effect, it may be looked upon as an ornamental building.
[Picture: New St. Chad’s Church]
The church is formed by the intersection of two circles, with a tower and
portico attached; the smaller of the circles forming the grand staircase,
and the larger one the body, chancel, and side staircases leading to the
gallery. On each side of the tower is a square wing 24 feet by 19,
appropriated for a vestry and robing room.
The exterior is divided into two stories, the lower one being rusticated,
and the upper springing from a moulding displaying a continued Ionic
entablature, supported by coupled pilasters of the same order; above the
cornice is a well-proportioned balustrade.
The windows are circular headed in the upper, and square in the lower
story, and, with the exception of that in the chancel, are uniform; the
latter is Venetian, the divisions being formed with Corinthian pillars.
The portico consists of four Roman Doric columns and entablature in full
order, and is considered a very fine specimen.
The steeple is divided into three parts, and, like the body of the
church, is rusticated at the base, which is square; on this rests the
second division, or bell chamber, octangular in shape, and decorated with
Ionic pilasters, cornice, &c.; above rises eight elegant Corinthian
columns, surrounded with an iron railing, and surmounted by a dome and
cross.
THE INTERIOR carries with it an air of importance, grandeur, and extent,
derived mainly from that form which in the exterior has so much shackled
the efforts of the architect: dazzled for a moment by the first
impressions, the detail is lost in the general effect; but from the whole
the eye is directed to those parts which constitute that whole, and here
defects may be discovered that will not stand the test of architectural
scrutiny.
The seats are well constructed, every individual being able to see the
officiating minister. The gallery is not thrown too forward, but is in
every respect in unison with the size of the church; it is carried round
the whole area with the exception of the chancel, and is supported by a
double row of ill-proportioned Ionic columns, painted porphyry. A
continued balustrade finishes the front of the gallery, from which rises
slender fluted columns (surmounted with entablature) for the support of
the roof, the frieze being decorated with cherubs.
The ceiling is enriched with a glory and cherubs in the centre,
surrounded by a wreath and other devices.
The chancel, contrary to general custom, is towards the north, and is
separated from the body of the church by a handsome arch springing from
an entablature supported by coupled composite columns, elegantly
proportioned, the capitals of which are richly gilt.
The altar-piece is plain oak wainscot, with panels inscribed according to
the canon of the church, above which is a Venetian window, containing a
painting in enamelled glass of the Resurrection of our Saviour, by the
elder Eginton. This window is shortly to be replaced by another, our
townsman, Mr. David Evans, having been directed by the munificence of the
Rev. Richard Scott, B.D. to exert his talents in the execution of a
splendid and faithful copy of the celebrated chef d’ouvre of Rubens,
painted for the cathedral church of Antwerp, THE DESCENT FROM THE CROSS,
with the VISITATION, and PRESENTATION IN THE TEMPLE.
The pulpit and reading desk stand in the centre of the area in front of
the chancel.
The organ is placed above the south or great entrance of the church; it
is in a mahogany case, with a small painting of David playing upon the
harp. The instrument was built by Gray, of London, and cost 400 guineas.
Between the piers of the gallery-windows are hatchments; and the
building, although of modern date, contains several tasteful memorials
which indicate,
“All that virtue, all that wealth e’er gave,
Await alike the inevitable hour—
The paths of glory lead but to the grave.”
Among these may be mentioned a large panelled tablet, having a bust of
the deceased by Chantrey, within a recess, commemorative of Mr. John
Simpson, “who superintended the building of this church; the bridges of
Bewdley, Dunkeld, Craig, Ellachie, and Bonar; the aqueducts of
Pontcysyllte and Chirk; and the locks and basins of the Caledonian
Canal.” He died 1815.
On each side of the entrance leading to the chancel are tablets, highly
enriched with sculpture, recording the decease of the Rev. George Scott,
of Betton Strange, in this parish, and of Ann Lucretia, his wife; also of
Richard Scott, of Peniarth Ucha, Merionethshire, and Underdale, in the
county of Salop.
On the east wall of the chancel is a small tablet in memory of
The Rev. THOMAS STEDMAN, M.A.
“Forty-two years Vicar of this Parish, during which period
his mind, his writings, and his discourse
were with deep humility devoted
to the glory of God, the happiness of mankind,
and the temporal and spiritual interests of his flock.”
He died Dec. 5th, 1825, in the 80th year of his age.
On a large Grecian tablet is a Latin inscription to the memory of the
late Rev. Francis Leighton, M.A. who died Sept. 7th, 1813, aged 66 years.
{36}
The body of the church is 100 feet in diameter, and the total length,
including the entrance and vestibule, 160 feet. The building is of fine
Grinshill stone, and was designed by Mr. George Steuart, of London. It
was commenced March 2d, 1790, and consecrated August 20th, 1792, and will
comfortably accommodate a congregation of about 2300 persons. The total
cost, including site, organ, bells, &c. was £19,352, of which £15,800 was
raised under act of parliament.
The steeple is 150 feet in height, and contains a full and melodious peal
of twelve bells; the weight of the tenor being 2 tons 1 cwt. and measures
16 ft. 6 in. in circumference at the mouth. The balcony beneath the dome
commands a fine prospect of the town and immediate vicinity.
In the vestry is a carved statue of St. Chad in his episcopal habit,
holding a bible in his right hand and a crosier in his left. It
originally stood upon the organ in the old church.
St. Chad’s is considered the principal church of the town; it is used on
all public occasions, and is the place where the archdeacon holds his
visitations and probat court.
A lecture is delivered here every Thursday evening, according to a
bequest of the late James Phillips, Esq. of London, who by his will
(dated 1661) devises, after the death of his wife, the rents of his
property in Three Crown Court, Southward, unto the mayor and aldermen of
this town for that purpose, and also for a lecture in the parish churches
of Oswestry, Ellesmere, and Whitchurch. This property now produces a
good revenue.
On the east side of the church is a spacious cemetery.
The living is a vicarage in the gift of the crown, being endowed in 1674,
by the benefaction of Nathaniel Tench, Esq. with “the tithes of corn and
hay of the grange of Crow Meole,” in commemoration of which the testator
directed that a sermon should be annually preached on the 6th of June.
The parish comprises nearly one-half of the town, and extends several
miles into the country, having two chapels of ease,—St. George’s
(Frankwell), and Bicton, three miles distant.
ST. MARY’S CHURCH
stands on a commanding situation, nearly one hundred feet above the level
of the river, on the north-eastern side of the town, and is one of the
most interesting ecclesiastical edifices in the county, displaying in its
construction almost every variety of ancient architecture, and affording
to the antiquary and man of taste a rich and unique field for
observation.
[Picture: St. Mary’s Church, N.W.]
It is a cruciform building, consisting of a nave, side aisles, transepts,
spacious chancel, two chantry chapels, and a lofty spire steeple.
In common with our early churches we have no opportunity of ascertaining
the precise date of its erection on written testimony. The probable
period of foundation has been stated, page 24; the renovation and
subsequent addition is therefore presumptive, and our decision must be
governed by analogy of style with other edifices, whose origin is
authenticated.
That the era of ancient buildings may be inferred from the internal
evidence they themselves afford of their respective antiquity admits of
little doubt; indeed, the amiable poet, Gray, who had much knowledge in
antiquarian pursuits, has said that “they constantly furnish, to the well
informed eye, arms, ornaments, and other indubitable marks by which their
several ages may be ascertained.”
There will be little difficulty in appropriating the ancient portions of
this building to distinct ages, if we except the task of assigning a
correct criteria to the curious mixture displayed in the columns which
support the semi-circular arches of the nave, where the Norman and
pointed styles are singularly blended together, the union of which will
afford matter of interesting speculation to the experienced antiquary.
William of Malmesbury has related an anecdote of the pious Wolstan,
Bishop of Worcester (from 1062 to 1095) praying, on his way to Chester,
in the _wooden church of St. Peter_, in this town, {39} and of the
“citizens asking him why he preferred it to the church which they called
St. Mary’s;”—a question we may reasonably conclude as shewing this was
then, in their opinion, from some circumstance, a church of no little
consequence.
The superior taste and enlarged views of improvement manifested by the
Normans in the arts, caused the restoration of many important churches in
much less time than a century after they had obtained the conquest of our
island.
St. Mary’s, no doubt, from its antiquity, required restoration, and
excited their early attention; but although destitute of positive data,
as before stated, from whence to ascribe a period to its re-edification,
the various improvements plainly evident in several parts of the fabric
will easily be discovered by the critical eye of the architectural
antiquary.
It may be mentioned that three distinct styles are apparent,—the
Anglo-Norman of the 12th century, in the basement of the tower, nave,
transepts, and doorways; the early lancet style in the windows of the
transepts and chancel; the pointed and obtuse arch of the 15th and 16th
century in the side aisles, clere-story, chantry, chapels, &c.
These shall be carefully examined by analysis, and the predominant
features appropriated with caution to their respective periods.
The greater part of a new structure, it is therefore conjectured, was
raised on the site of a previous Saxon building, probably early in the
reign of Henry I. This is evident from the plain circular windows
inserted in the massive basement of the tower, which, like the lower
portion of the entire building, is of red stone, and flanked by broad
flat buttresses, similar to those on the lower part of the Abbey tower.
The tower of St. Mary’s originally was probably not higher than the part
composed of red stone, and was terminated like the generality of Norman
towers, by a plain parapet.
The struggle between the Norman and pointed styles sometimes occasioned
incongruous arches, and we may attribute the rude pointed doorway of the
tower having an internal arch nearly triangular, to the reign of Stephen.
THE SOUTH PORCH of the nave is of the early Norman era, the outward arch
circular, having zigzag mouldings issuing from clustered columns, and an
inner rib, obtusely pointed; the windows on each side are curious as
early specimens of the rudiments of the mullioned window, introduced
about the time of Stephen; the arches of these windows rest on short
thick columns, and are bisected into two lights by a similar pillar as a
mullion, the capitals of which are all different; in the apex is a
quatrefoil, one of the simplest and most ancient kind of ornaments.
The ceiling of the porch is also an example of the most ancient kind of
groined vault, having neither boss nor ornament; above this is a chamber
(entered from the church by a newel staircase), and lighted by a pointed
window.
The inner doorway of the porch is an enriched round arch, with chevron,
lozenge, and foliated mouldings. That on the north side of the nave is
similar in style; and the doorways (now closed) in the north and south
transepts are very elegant specimens of the style which prevailed from
the Conquest to the time of Henry I.; the latter is decorated with
alternate lozenge panels filled with an embossed flower.
A progressive movement of refinement and beauty took place in the science
of architecture during the reign of Henry III. when the heavy Norman was
succeeded by the slender lancet arch and its attendant ornaments. The
transepts of this church are fine specimens of this transition of the
styles, the north and south ends of which are terminated by beautifully
proportioned triple lancet windows enriched with slender shafts and
mouldings.
About the close of the 15th century, a greater stateliness of character
and ornamental arrangement became the prevailing characteristic of
architectural display, and the general features of the building were
altered to the fashionable style.
The walls of the side aisles previous to this time were much lower, which
is indicated by a slope in the stone work at the west end and a pier at
the south-west, on which the roof originally rested. When the walls were
raised, three mullioned windows were substituted on each side for
round-headed lights, which narrowed towards the exterior surface of the
wall, similar, no doubt, to that still remaining at the west end.
The nave shortly afterwards received the addition of a clere-story,
lighted by a range of short windows with obtusely pointed arches,
extending the whole length of the nave and chancel.
To render these important alterations of the fabric complete, the low
massy tower was raised, and large double pointed windows were placed on
each side, and the whole surmounted with an embattled parapet and
pinnacles, which (being much decayed) were judiciously restored in 1816.
From this tower rises an octagonal spire of noble proportions, which may
be ranked as equal in height to the _third loftiest spire_ in the
kingdom, and forms an interesting and prominent object from every part of
the rich and beautiful scenery which surrounds the town.
The dimensions, as taken at the last repair in 1818, are—tower, 78 feet 4
inches; spire, to the top of vane, 141 feet 10 inches; total height, 220
feet 2 inches.
The chapel south of the chancel has a remarkably lofty roof, and on the
south side four handsome pointed windows of Henry the Sixth’s time; each
window is divided by a buttress, on which rests a crocketed pinnacle.
The eastern end of this building was originally finished by a large
window, but within its space two lofty round-headed lights, with singular
canopies in the debased style, prevalent about the reign of Queen
Elizabeth, have been inserted.
The chancel is terminated by a large window, divided by mullions into two
tiers of eight lights each, the apex being ramified into inelegant
tracery, introduced in repairing the damage which this window (and that
alluded to in the above chapel) sustained during an extreme tempest in
1579.
THE INTERIOR
of this church is strikingly noble, and calculated to inspire the mind
with awe; but although the purer light of later times has in some degree
eclipsed the adventitious aid intended to be conveyed to the feelings,
during the religious ceremonies of our forefathers, by the almost
mysterious effect produced from intermingled arches and clustered
columns, canopied niches, costly shrines, and the mellow reflection of
the storied pane shedding
“The dim blaze of radiance richly clear,”
in these august edifices of former ages, they still possess a power over
the imagination, and insensible must that mind be which is not
susceptible of appropriate religious influences,—subdued thoughts,—and,
inspiring conceptions of divine majesty, when beholding the “long drawn
aisle” and “high embower’d roof,” where all forms and differences of
opinion, it has been justly remarked, become “trivial for awhile, amidst
the sublimity of temples so well suited to the adoration of omnipotence.”
The nave is separated from the side aisles by _four __semicircular
arches_, _resting on elegant clustered columns_, with capitals decorated
with foliage of different devices, from the rudest to the richest design.
The mouldings of these arches have bolder projections, but are less
massive than those of the early Norman, and more delicately finished, and
although the mouldings on the shafts are peculiar to the earliest pointed
style, they happily harmonize with the circular arches.
At the eastern extremity of each side aisle, opening to the transepts, is
a semi-circular arch, resting on thick round pillars, with a regular base
and indented capital, ornamented with sculpture of the earliest Norman
era; similar arches lead to the chantry chapels. These arches, from
their general style, are evidently the oldest part of the fabric, and we
may venture to ascribe them to a period not later than the Conquest. In
removing the accumulations of colouring and plaister from the walls and
arches of this part, in 1828, the _distinguishing marks_ of the
_operative masons_ employed in working the stones were discovered, and
still are to be seen, being the same as those now used. {44}
The choir and transepts are divided by three most beautiful pointed
arches, rising from piers similar to those described in the nave.
The ceiling of the nave is of oak, the intersections of the beams being
formed into panels richly decorated with ornamented quatrefoils and
foliage, carved bosses, flowers, grotesque figures, &c. A beautiful
cornice of vine branches, grapes interspersed with masks, are placed
round the walls beneath the roof. The whole is in excellent
preservation, and supposed to be one of the finest specimens of the
ancient fretted ceiling in the kingdom.
THE CHANCEL is elevated above the church by a double ascent, and the
ceiling, like that of both the transepts, is excellently painted, but
panelled in a style somewhat similar to that of the nave, and adorned
with some of the rich fret work removed from the wreck of the churches of
St. Chad and St. Alkmond.
On the north side of the altar is a most beautiful triple lancet window,
with arches remarkably acute, and resting on isolated columns, whose
capitals are adorned with elegant foliage, &c. The window is filled with
three figures in ancient stained glass.
Whilst these pages are passing through the press, a most important
improvement has been effected in the chancel, by removing the altar
screen, which, although a handsome Grecian design, obstructed not only
much of the eastern window, but was quite out of character with the
building. Another of a more appropriate description will be substituted.
The eastern window contains the truly splendid glass that adorned the
chancel of old St. Chad’s, and which escaped the destruction that befel
the other parts of the fabric. It was carefully removed and presented to
this parish by the trustees for putting into execution the act for
rebuilding the new church.
This glass, unequalled in point of beauty and colouring, represents THE
GENEALOGY OF CHRIST, from the root of Jesse. The patriarch occupies the
breadth of three bays of the window, being depicted as reclining in a
deep sleep, with his head resting upon an embroidered pillow, and
supported on his right hand. From his loins issues a VINE, the branches
of which, before its disarrangement, overspread the whole window,
inclosing within the ovals formed by its intersections a KING or PROPHET
of the ancestry of Joseph, the series of which is finished by the husband
of the Virgin Mary in a devotional posture at the feet of his progenitor.
Many of the figures are depicted with their peculiar emblems. The ground
of the whole is varied and exquisitely vivid, on which the clusters of
grapes and the bright verdure of the vine leaves are displayed with great
effect.
Two compartments contain figures of ancient knights vested in the hawberk
and bearing their square banners, and kneeling beneath foliated
tabernacles. They represent Sir John Cherleton, Lord of Powis, and his
son Sir Owen. From the following translation of an inscription on a part
of the window,
“Pray for Monsieur John de Charlton, who caused this glazing to be
made, and for Dame Hawis his companion,”
the date of its erection is ascertained to be about the middle of the
fourteenth century; it was originally placed in the church of the convent
of Grey Friars in this town, from whence it was removed to St. Chad’s at
the Dissolution.
Many of the figures have been displaced in their change of situation;
their re-arrangement, however, is now in progress, and to complete the
genealogical line additional figures will be added, and the lower tier of
arches in the window, formerly filled with brick-work, have been opened
to their base.
At the west end of the nave is a peculiarly rich and full-toned organ,
made by the celebrated builders Harris and Byfield, in 1729, which has
recently been improved by the addition of an octave and a half of pedal
pipes.
This instrument stands upon a handsome stone screen, divided into three
compartments, formed by as many obtusely pointed arches, and divided by
buttresses of two stories, highly decorated with reticulated divisions,
containing an open flower in relief; around the inner recesses of the
arches are the following inscriptions:—
Venite Domino exultemus
Rupi salutis jutilemus
Jehovam hymnis concinamus
Et grates illi persolnamus—Hallelujah.
Jehovam virgints laudate
Senes et pueri celebrate
Psalmis ecclesia sanctorum
Extollat Dominum Dominorum.
Laudate carminis clamore
Laudate buccinae clangore
Laudate organo sonoro
Laudate cymbalis et choro.
Above is a series of smaller arches similar in style, having cinque-foil
heads, and filled with the like reticulated divisions and ornament, each
of the arches being divided by a small plain buttress; the string course
is charged with elaborately carved heads of angels, pateras, &c. and the
spandrils of the several arches throughout are enriched with elegant and
varied foliage, exquisitely sculptured. The whole forming a most
prominent and imposing feature to the main entrance of the nave, and will
be a permanent monument of the good taste and munificence of the donor,
the Rev. W. G. Rowland, M.A.
The screen was designed by and executed under the superintendence of Mr.
John Carline, of this town, and is a work creditable to his professional
abilities.
THE NORTH TRANSEPT
has a rich and pleasing appearance on entering the church from the
eastern door, {48} through a porch which was once a chantry chapel, and
connected with the transept by a fine Norman arch.
The triple windows of this and the corresponding transept are filled with
small full-length figures in stained glass, bearing their respective
insignia, and judiciously placed within ovals of chaste mosaic patterns.
The centre of the middle light has the arms of King George the Third,
with the following inscription:
GEO. III.
REGUM • OPTIMUS •
GENTIS • BRITANNICAE •
OLIM • DELICIÆ • NUNC • DESIDERIUM •
MORTALITATEM • EXUIT •
MENS • JAN • DIE • 29 • A.D. 1820 •
ANNO • ÆTAT • 82 . REGNI • 60 .
On a scroll at the top,
_Among many Nations was there no King like him_.—Neh. xiii. 26.
On another at the bottom,
_His Heart was perfect with the Lord all his Days_.—1 Kings xv. 14.
Above these arms is the figure of the Virgin Mary, and below is St.
Andrew. The dexter lancet window is occupied with the figures of St.
Philip, St. Bartholomew, and St. James the son of Zebedee, and the
sinister with St. Simon, St. Thomas, and St. Matthias. At the bottom is
the following inscription:—“IOANNES BRICKDALE BLAKEWAY, A.M. HUJUS
ECCLESIÆ JUDEX OFFICIALIS ET MINISTER INSIGNIA REGIA P. C. ANNO MDCCCXX.
RELIQUAM FENESTRÆ PARTEM EXORNAVIT EJUS VIDUA M.E.B. ANNO MDCCCXXIX.”
The lower portion of the walls are ornamented with interstitial divisions
and monuments.
Against the west wall is a most beautiful free-stone
MONUMENT
TO THE LATE REV. J. B. BLAKEWAY;
[Picture: Monument to Rev. J. B. Blakeway, and North Transept]
which for elegance of design, beauty of execution, and general effect,
has perhaps rarely been surpassed in modern times.
This beautiful Memorial was designed by Mr. John Carline, of this town,
and is upwards of 12 feet in length and 16 feet in height, and is divided
into three compartments by clustered buttresses, which sustain richly
crocketed pinnacles. The centre compartment comprises a large pointed
arch, cusped, canopied, and crocketed, the back of which is deeply
recessed, and contains the following inscription in ornamental Roman
capitals:
To the Memory of the Reverend
JOHN BRICKDALE BLAKEWAY, M.A. F.A.S.
Thirty-one years Ordinary and Official
And Thirty-two years Minister of this Parish,
This Monument is erected
By the Voluntary Subscription of his Parishioners,
As a tribute of respect for his talents,
Esteem for his virtues,
And gratitude for his long and faithful services
As their Friend and Pastor.
He died the tenth day of March, MDCCCXXVI.
Aged sixty years.
On each side of the above compartment is an elegant niche with a
cinquefoil head, octagonal back, and groined ceiling. These niches are
surmounted by acute-angled crocketed canopies formed of deep mouldings;
and resting on the head of each niche within the canopy is a cinquefoil
within a circle. In a similar situation in the centre compartment is a
shield containing the following arms:—Argent, on a bend engrailed sable,
three bezants; impaling argent, a fess vaire between three unicorns
passant, gules.
The above divisions rest on an altar tomb, the front of which is divided
into twelve small niches with trefoil heads. These niches are separated
by small buttresses, with crocketed canopies and pinnacles.
Mr. Blakeway was the son of Joshua Blakeway, Esq. of this town, and a
gentleman whose pleasing adaptation of manners and amiable walk through
life gained him the universal respect of his fellow townsmen. Neither
the church nor the state had a more faithful defender of its rights or
supporter of its dignity, nor the true interests of his native town a
more watchful guardian.
As a scholar and a gentleman, united with the character of a true
christian, we shall perhaps “ne’er look upon his like again.” As a
preacher he was admired for his forcible illustration of holy writ, and
the valuable admonitions clothed in the language of affection which his
discourses generally contained, whilst his devoutness in the performance
of the sacred duties of the sanctuary must have impressed their
importance on all who heard them. In his personal appearance he was tall
and robust;—his face bore the line of thought, and his ample forehead
bespoke the mind that dwelt within. As an author he had written much and
published little, and was known only to the literary world previous to
1821 by a few sermons, controversial tracts, and critical notes in
Malone’s edition of Boswell’s Life of Johnson. His name, however, will
be immortalized in the valuable History of Shrewsbury which he commenced
in 1820, with the Venerable Archdeacon Owen, and just lived to see the
general history and ecclesiastical portions published in two quarto
volumes, which elaborate undertaking will obtain for him and his revered
friend and colleague the respect and gratitude of every true Salopian in
subsequent generations.
Mr. Blakeway likewise shewed much attention and devotedness to the
antiquities of his native county, and the valuable mass of manuscripts he
left behind in illustration of its genealogical and topographical history
will remain also as a monument of his industry. {52}
His last end was peace,—for he departed almost without a sigh, and nearly
without losing that benignant smile which was so peculiar to him. His
remains were interred on the right of the west entrance to the
church-yard.
Three beautiful specimens of monumental sculpture, designed by the same
architect, occupy the north wall, and harmonize with the splendid
memorial just described, a detail of which would occupy too much space.
The lancet window in the west wall contains a fine ancient figure in
stained glass of St. John the Evangelist, arrayed in a robe which
displays a most splendid specimen of the ancient ruby glass of the old
masters; the hem of the garment is brilliantly studded with pearls.
THE ANCIENT FONT stands in the centre of the area, and is very handsome.
The basin is octangular, each side having an ornamented quatrefoil, in
the centre of which is a large double rose. The angles have been adorned
with busts of angels bearing shields, and the pedestal is pierced into
gothic arches, divided by small shelving buttresses.
In the north-eastern angle is an octangular turret, in which a small
doorway opens to a staircase leading to a chamber which was no doubt once
a chantry. It is lighted by a curious triangular window, with a trefoil
on the intrado of each arch, the mouldings of which are deeply recessed.
Below this is another chantry chapel, now used as a VESTRY, having at the
east end an early Norman light, and on the north a mullioned window of
the fifteenth century. Under a low pointed arch beneath this window is a
monumental tomb composed of alabaster, but sunk into the floor for
economy of space: it bears the figures of a warrior and his lady in the
act of devotion, supposed to represent Nicholas Stafford and his wife
Katherine. The former was bailiff of the town in 1458, and died in 1471.
SOUTH TRANSEPT.
The window of this transept contains the figures of our Saviour, St.
James the son of Alpheus, and St. Thaddeus; in the dexter compartments
are those of St. Matthew the Evangelist, St. Paul, and St. Mark; and in
the sinister those of St. John the Evangelist, St. Peter, and St. Luke.
Underneath this window is “GULIELMUS GORSUCH ROWLAND A.M. HUJUS ECCLESLÆ
JUDEX OFFICIALIS ET MINISTER HANC FENESTRAM FACIENDAM CURAVIT ANNO 1829.”
The windows of this and the north transept were executed by Mr. D. Evans,
of Shrewsbury, and may be considered as some of the finest specimens of
the art in the kingdom, both as regards brilliancy and harmony of
colours, beauty of design, and exquisite workmanship, whilst the “dim
religious light” which they shed around, imparts an impressiveness of
character that at once bespeaks the sacred purpose of the place as the
House of Prayer.
Below the south window of this transept is a bold composition of
monumental architecture, designed by Mr. J. Carline, consisting of three
acute-angled crocketed canopies, crowned with a finial. The labels of
the arches are enriched with foliage, and the interior sweep fashioned in
the ogee manner. From the lateral piers, and between each division of
the arches, springs an elegant crocketed pinnacle panelled and finished
by an open flower.
It is much to be wished that the correct taste displayed in these and
other beautiful specimens of the decorated style of monumental
architecture, recently erected in this church, was more generally
manifested in the adaptation of monuments to the character of the
buildings in which they are to be placed, instead of the unsightly
tablets so commonly introduced, and which frequently contribute anything
but ornament to our ancient churches.
From the south transept a fine Norman arch opens to the
TRINITY CHAPEL,
which also has a communication with the chancel by an arch in the pointed
style.
This building (57 feet by 30) was at first of smaller dimensions, as is
evident from two lancet windows (beneath which are two very early loop
holes) in the wall next to the south aisle. Immediately above the
shelving portion still visible of the roof of the original chapel is a
peculiar circular window.
The enlargement was effected by the Draper’s Company soon after their
incorporation in 1461, having therein a guild or fraternity to the Holy
Trinity. Within the south wall is the sedilia formerly used by the
officiating priests, and the remains of a piscina, all of which were once
overspread with elegant canopies.
On the opposite side is a large pointed arch, now walled up. Under this
is an altar tomb, the sides of which are divided by small buttresses in
ornamental niches of the early decorated style. Above is a mutilated
recumbent figure of a cross-legged knight in linked armour, supposed to
represent one of the LEYBURNES LORDS OF BERWICK, in this parish, and who
died about the middle of the 14th century. The grave below was opened in
1816, and was composed of wrought masonry, when, after a little loose
rubbish had been removed, some leg and thigh bones were discovered. On
digging about three feet lower to the bottom of the tomb, a skeleton was
found wrapped in leather, but without a head. This is conjectured to be
the skeleton of Thomas Percy, Earl of Worcester, who was beheaded after
the battle of Shrewsbury, and his head sent to London, while his body
found an asylum in the tomb of a family which had become extinct.
This church, in 1232, was the scene of an assemblage of legates, convened
by command of the Pope to hear charges which had been preferred against
Llewelyn for repeated infractions of treaties. This negociation was at
length left to six referees on the part of King Henry III. and four on
that of the Welsh Prince, by which peace was maintained for a season.
When Charles the First visited this town in 1642, it is recorded he took
“a protestation and the sacrament upon it to defend the Protestant
religion established by Queen Elizabeth and his royal father,” which
solemn scene, it is supposed, took place within this edifice, being the
parish church of the mansion in which he was sojourning. King James the
Second, it is also said, attended divine service here in 1687, after
which he exercised the royal gift of healing by touching many persons for
the king’s evil.
THE MONUMENTS of particular interest having been already noticed in their
proper situations, it need only be remarked that there are mural tablets
commemorative of individuals connected with the families of LYSTER, LLOYD
(of Rûg, &c.), MORHALL, BLAKEWAY, &c. on the walls of the chancel, and
several other memorials in the nave, transepts, and chapel; which the
extended description of this church, and the confined limits of the
present work, will not permit further to enumerate.
The length of the building from east to west is 160 feet, breadth
(including side aisles) 50 feet.
The tower contains a peal of ten bells, the harmony of which, it is
considered, cannot be excelled by that of any peal in the kingdom: weight
of tenor 21 cwt. 2 qrs. 17 lbs.
On the west wall of the steeple is an inscription to the memory of Thomas
Cadman, who lost his life in a bold attempt to descend from the top of
the spire by means of a rope, which he had fixed to it and brought down
to the Gay meadow, on the other side of the river Severn. He fell near
the Water-lane gate, Feb. 2, 1739, aged 28, at a time when “the ground
was iron and the Severn glass,” owing, as the epitaph records, to
“A faulty cord being drawn too tight.”
The parish of Saint Mary extends several miles in detached parts of the
country, having within its boundaries five chapels of ease, viz.
Albrighton, Astley, Berwick, Clive, and St. Michael’s (Castle-foregate).
The church is a royal peculiar, and the official court has probate of all
wills and cognizance of all other ecclesiastical matters arising within
the parish. The living is a perpetual curacy, and was, previous to the
late municipal act, in the presentation of the Corporation of Shrewsbury;
and in the choice of a minister, the son of a burgess, who has been
educated at the royal free grammar school, or (in case there be no
burgess’s son of that description) one born in the parish of Chirbury,
with a qualification similar to the foregoing, is to have the preference.
SAINT ALKMUND’S CHURCH
is situate at a short distance from St. Mary’s, and its cemetery adjoins
that of St. Julian’s.
The fine old cruciform church of this parish was inconsiderately
destroyed in 1794, under a mistaken apprehension of its stability. The
present building, with the exception of the tower and spire, which
fortunately escaped the fate of the old church, was opened for divine
service Nov. 8, 1795, at a cost of rather more than £3000.
The new structure is of Grinshill stone, and in the style called modern
gothic, having six lofty pointed windows on each side, filled with
slender mullions of cast-iron; between the windows are graduated
buttresses.
The interior is handsomely fitted up, and the general effect pleasing,
although not in strict conformity with a gothic building,—wanting that
sombre grandeur characteristic of this style of architecture. It is 82
feet long by 44 feet wide, with a small chancel terminated by a pointed
window filled with enamelled glass emblematical of “EVANGELICAL FAITH,”
depicted in the character of a female figure in the attitude of kneeling
upon a cross, with her arms extended, and eyes elevated towards a
celestial crown which appears in the opening clouds. The countenance has
an interesting expression of adoration, and the motto, “Be thou faithful
unto death,” &c. is inscribed on an open volume. The window was painted
by the elder Egginton, and cost 200 guineas.
At the west end is a capacious gallery, containing a small fine-toned
organ by Gray, of London, erected by a subscription in 1823.
The principal entrance to the church is in the base of the tower, under
an elegant pointed arch recessed within a square aperture, on either side
of which are niches, most barbarously repaired in 1825; above is a bold
mullioned window in the style of the sixteenth century, when the tower
and spire were probably built. In this window are two ancient
escutcheons in stained glass, displaying England and France quarterly,
and the arms of Richard Sampson, Bishop of Lichfield, and Lord President
of the Marches from 1543 to 1548.
The tower is finely proportioned, being flanked with double buttresses
gradually diminishing, and terminated with a crocketed pinnacle; an open
parapet of pointed arches surrounds the base of the spire, which, though
not remarkable for height, is considered by persons of good taste “to
possess singular elegance of form.” The tower contains eight musical
bells, recast in 1813, and is 70 feet high, the spire 114, making a total
of 184 feet from the ground.
In a vault beneath this church are interred the remains of Thomas Jones,
Esq. who died in 1642. He was six times bailiff, and the FIRST MAYOR OF
SHREWSBURY; also those of Sir Thomas Jones, Lord Chief Justice of the
Court of Common Pleas, who died 1692, to whom and other members of this
ancient Shropshire family are several memorials. Other monumental
tablets also relieve the walls of the building.
The old structure contained many curious brasses and monuments; the
former were sold, and the latter dispersed, on its unnecessary
demolition.
The living is a vicarage in the gift of the Crown, and a weekly lecture
is preached in the church on Wednesdays.
SAINT JULIAN’S CHURCH.
[Picture: St. Julian’s and St. Alkmond’s Churches]
The church, dedicated to St. Juliana, occupies an elevated situation at
the top of Wyle Cop, and was erected 1749–50, from a design by Mr. T. F.
Prichard, of this town, on the site of an Anglo-Norman structure, which
had become ruinous.
It is a plain oblong building of brick, and stone dressings, 83 feet by
48, with a small recess for the chancel.
At the west end is the tower of the old church; the basement is of red
stone, and of a date far anterior to the superstructure, which is of the
16th century, and crowned by a handsome embattled parapet and eight lofty
pinnacles, restored in 1818, when the masonry of the tower was chipped
and repaired. The tower contains a peal of six bells, recast in 1706,
and an excellent clock, the dial of which is illuminated at night.
In the south wall of the chancel is an ancient figure, probably intended
to represent St. Juliana.
The interior is particularly neat, possessing an air of solemnity unusual
in the generality of modern churches. Four large Roman-Doric pillars
support the roof of the nave, which is coved and adorned with the
fret-work of the old church. Galleries occupy three sides of the
building. At the west end is an excellent organ, by Bowsher and
Fleetwood, of Liverpool, erected by a subscription in 1834, the exterior
of which is tasteful in design, and harmonizes with the internal
architecture of the edifice.
The pulpit is handsome, and belonged to the old church. The altar-piece
and furniture of the chancel are in good taste; the former is of
wainscot, and presents a Roman Doric basement, supporting Ionic pilasters
and entablature with modillion cornice, from which springs a rich
architrave surrounding a Venetian window, in the centre light of which is
a figure in stained glass of ST. JAMES BEARING THE HOLY SCRIPTURES. The
side lights contain the royal arms, and those of the see of Lichfield,
impaling Cornwallis.
In the windows of the south gallery are the armorial bearings of Queen
Elizabeth, the family of Bowdler, a fine ancient shield of the town arms,
and heads of St. Peter and St. Paul, surmounted by their emblems, the
keys and sword. On the north side are the arms of Prince, Bennett,
Astley, the Earl of Tankerville, and a figure of St. John.
In the floor of the south aisle is an ancient gravestone, preserved from
the former church: round the edge is a Longobardic inscription to the
memory of Edmund Tromwyn, who is supposed to have died about the close of
the thirteenth century.
There are several mural monuments in the aisles and chancel: on the north
side of the latter is a pedimented tablet set on a square table of
dove-coloured marble, with the following inscription:—
Sacred to the Memory
Of the VENERABLE HUGH OWEN, M.A. F.R.S.
Archdeacon of Salop,
Prebendary of Salisbury and Lichfield,
One of the Portionists of Bampton, Oxfordshire,
Formerly Minister of this Parish, and afterwards of St. Mary, in
Shrewsbury.
He was the only son of Pryce Owen, M.D. and Bridget his wife,
And the lineal descendant of an Ancient British family.
Distinguished for the extent and accuracy of his Antiquarian
researches,
And knowledge of the principles of Ecclesiastical and Civil
Architecture,
By the judicious application of this talent,
Joined to a firm but mild execution of his official authority,
He greatly contributed to the decent and substantial restoration
Of many venerable fabrics within his Archdeaconry.
His “Account of the Ancient and Present State of Shrewsbury,”
Originally published in a single volume,
Was afterwards embodied in a complete History written by him,
In conjunction with the Rev. John Brickdale Blakeway.
He died Dec. 23d, 1827, aged 67 years.
Harriet, his wife, daughter of Edward Jeffreys, Esq.
Died April 3d, 1825, aged 59 years.
In the south aisle, a plain tablet surmounted by a lion commemorates the
public spirit and unremitting exertions of Mr. ROBERT LAWRENCE, “in
opening the great road through Wales between the united kingdoms, and for
establishing the first mail coach to this town.” He died Sept. 3d, 1806,
aged 57 years.
The living is a perpetual curacy in the presentation of the Right Hon.
the Earl of Tankerville, and the parish comprehends the Wyle Cop and the
suburb of Coleham, but isolated districts of it are intermixed with
several of the other parishes at different ends of the town.
A Sunday evening lecture was commenced at this church, April 20th, 1828,
for the “free accommodation of the town at large,” the parishioners
having consented to lend their pews for the occasion. Several of the
clergy connected with the town preach alternately at this additional
service.
THE PARISH OF
ST. MICHAEL WITHIN THE CASTLE.
It has been already stated (page 24) that the royal free chapel of St.
Juliana became at an early period appurtenant to the church of St.
Michael, the situation of which it has been shown was within the castle.
It is uncertain whether a church existed here anterior to the Norman
conquest; however, in the survey called Domesday-book, compiled in 1085,
the churches of Shrewsbury are mentioned in the following order, and
their possessions enumerated: viz. St. Mary, St. Michael, St. Chad, St.
Alkmund, and St. Julian. And of St. Michael these particulars are given:
“The Church of Saint Michael holds, of the Earl Roger, _Posseton_:
Chetel held it [in the time of the Confessor]: there is one virgate
of land: the land is half a carucate: one man renders therefore a
bundle of box on the day of Palms. The same church holds _Suletene_:
Brictric, a free man held it from the Confessor, when there was one
hide paying tax at the time of the Conquest: the land was one
caracute: there was also half a caracate: it was then worth five
shillings; now (the completion of Domesday) four pence less.” {63}
It may be useful, therefore, in this place to relate some further
information respecting the parish of St. Michael, which has lately
excited the public attention, by the parish of St. Mary enforcing a
demand for the payment of poor-rates upon the tenant of the Castle, J. C.
Pelham, Esq. and which that gentleman resisted on the ground that the
Castle formed no part of the parish of St. Mary. The issue came on for
trial at the Summer Assizes, 1836, before Mr. Justice Patteson and a
special jury, when a verdict was obtained in favour of the plaintiff, Mr.
Pelham.
1222.—This Chapel was of the donation of the Lord the King, and given to
William de Haverhul.
The Chapel of the Forde was also of the gift of the King, and belonged to
this church of the Castle, and rendered three shillings, and was worth
one mark, which William de Haverhul then held.
1235.—The Chapel of St. Michael was held by William de Battal, and was
worth yearly fourteen marks.
1271.—The Rector of St. Michael proceeded to recover in law for services
due to him in right of his church. The entry commences thus:
“Robert Corbet, of Morton, offered himself on the fourth day (fourth
day probably of the assizes at Shrewsbury) against Richard de Sarre,
Parson of the Church of St. Michael, of a plea that the same Robert
should do to the aforesaid Richard the accustomed and right services
which he ought to do to him for his frank tenement which he holds of
him in _Soleton_ and Lack.”
1293.—The Chapel of St. Michael was worth yearly twelve marks, and Master
Adam de Malane held it of the gift of the King.
1309.—King Edward the Second granted to his beloved clerk, Boniface de
Ledes, this Free Chapel, vacant by the resignation of Roger de Ledes.
1318.—A similar Grant to Roger de Lysewy, of this Free Chapel of St.
Michael, being then vacant, &c. To this grant is appended an order from
the King to “Master Thomas de Cherlton,” then Constable of the Castle, to
induct this Roger into corporal possession thereof.
1330.—A similar Grant of this Chapel, being vacant, to Walter de London.
1330.—A subsequent Grant, in this year, of the said Chapel to Adam de
Overton.
1342.—It appears that Adam D’Overton was Warden of this Free Chapel of
St. Michael.
1343.—A Grant to John de Wynwyk of this Free Chapel, and an order to John
de Wyndsore, then the Constable, to induct him; also a Grant to the same
John de Wynwyk of the King’s Free Chapel of St. Julian, Salop.
1344.—A Grant to John Fitz John Le Strange, of Blaunkmonstr, of this Free
Chapel.
1347.—It appears that a suit was pending between John Fitz John Le
Strange, of Whitechurch, Parson of this Free Chapel, and certain persons
in the pleas mentioned.
1395.—An Inquisition taken at Salop, on Wednesday next after the
Exaltation of the Holy Cross, before John de Eyton, Sheriff of Salop, by
virtue of a certain Writ to the said Sheriff directed, and to this
Inquisition annexed, by oath of William Banaster of Bromdon, and others,
who say upon their oath that William Tyrington, late Parson of this
Chapel, had committed waste, dilapidation, and destruction in this
Chapel, to wit, in throwing down, dilapidating, and destroying this
Chapel, to the value of one hundred pounds, through the defect of the
roofing, repairing, and supporting of this Chapel, that is, in lead,
stone, timber, and glass windows, and also in the carrying away one
chalice and divers entire vestments, with all the ornaments ordained for
the said chalice and vestments pertaining to the said Chapel, and by
destroying divers images lately being in the same Chapel, by reason of
his improvident custody of the said Chapel, and of his neglect of the
repairing of this Chapel, to the value aforesaid, beginning the defects
aforesaid in the Feast of Easter, in the 48th year of King Edward the
Third, till the death of this William Tyrington, so that this Chapel was
utterly destroyed and wholly thrown down and laid in ruins by this
William de Tyrington, late Parson of this Chapel, and so that two hundred
marks were not sufficient to amend and repair it, with the ornaments
lately being therein.
1410.—A Grant by King Henry the Fourth, reciting, that whereas he had
granted to “Roger Yve, of Leeton, Rector of our Chapel of St. John the
Baptist at Adbrighton Husee,” “certain lands in fields called the
Batteleyfield, in which field the battle between us and Henry Percy,
deceased, and certain of our rebels, lately took place,” in order to
build “a certain Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene,” of which he was appointed
Warden, with power to choose five Chaplains to celebrate Divine Service
in the said Chapel every day. The Grant then proceeds to endow the said
Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene at Battlefield with various possessions, and
among others with the Advowson of “the King’s Free Chapel of St. Michael
within the Castle of Salop, to which the Chapel of St. Julian of Salop is
appurtenant or appendant.”
1417.—John Repynton, then Warden of the said Chapel of Saint Michael,
surrendered the same to the King.
1558.—John Halliwell took of Richard Burper, among other property, all
manner of tithes, oblations, obventions, fruits, profits, and emoluments,
of the Rectory, Church, and Chapel, of Saint Julian, and of “the Chapel
of Saint Michael.”
1583.—Was a Fine, passing the same property.
Queen Elisabeth having granted a lease of the Castle and its
appurtenances to Humphrey Onslow, Esq. at the yearly rent of 13s. 4d.
that gentleman’s lease expired in 1596, when the Castle and its
appurtenances came into the possession of the Corporation.
In the records of the Corporation is the following entry:
1605.—“Agreed that persons shall view the stones in the Castle belonging
to St. Michael’s Chapel, and take account thereof, and enquire what
stones are taken away.”
There can be little doubt, however, but the Parish of St. Michael’s had
originally some connexion with St. Mary’s parish; for in the reign of
Henry II. it seems that Walter de Dunstanville, Rector of St. Michael’s,
sold a tract of land called Wogheresforlong and a moiety of Derefold to a
person named Gilbert, reserving to himself a rent of three shillings and
sixpence; and that John the son of Gilbert soon afterwards conveyed it to
one Nicholas le Poncer, who subsequently granted it to Haghmond Abbey,
free from all secular service, saving a rent of four shillings to be
annually paid (in lieu of the tithes of Derefold) to the parson of the
parish of the church of St. Michael within the Castle.
This commutation is assented to and witnessed by the Dean and Chapter of
St. Mary’s, “for us and our successors for ever;” an attestation which
would appear as quite unnecessary, if this district had not once been
connected with their jurisdiction.
The etymology of Derfald, or Deerfold, is an enclosure or park (which
will be noticed hereafter) for keeping deer, an appendage not unusual to
our early fortresses. This circumstance (and at a period when little
respect was shown to boundaries civil or ecclesiastical) might have
induced Roger de Montgomery, as feudal lord, to assign it as the
parochial limits of his church, although at the cost of the parish of St.
Mary.
THE ABBEY CHURCH.
[Picture: The Abbey Church]
THE ABBEY CHURCH is situated in the suburb to which it has given the name
of Abbey Foregate. It is built of a deep red stone. A noble simplicity
combined with a massive solidity characterizes the whole structure, to
which time has given a most venerable appearance; and, though marks of
mutilation are too evident throughout, it displays many curious features
of ancient Norman architecture combined with the earlier pointed style.
It originally formed part of the richly endowed monastery founded in 1083
by Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, and when entire was a stately
cruciform building, equal in size to some of our cathedrals, having a
central and western tower, transepts, &c. The whole eastern portion,
two-thirds of the structure, was barbarously destroyed at the dissolution
of monasteries in the time of Henry the Eighth. The neglect of
after-times has contributed much to disfigure its external elevation, the
eastern portion of the upper clerestory having from decay fallen down
some time about the close of the 17th century.
The present church consists of the nave, side aisles, and western tower
of the Abbey church, and owes its escape to the circumstance of the
western end having always been used as the church of the parish of HOLY
CROSS, the name it still retains.
The west front is composed of the tower, flanked by the ends of the
Norman side aisles, and has a bold appearance. The tower is broad and
massive; the basement early Norman, surmounted by a well-proportioned
superstructure of the 14th century. The portal is a deeply recessed
round-headed arch, having a pointed doorway inserted within it; to
preserve uniformity, the exterior rib of the outward round arch springs
on each side from a Norman shaft with an indented capital, and the
combination displays much skill and ingenuity.
Above this is one of the most magnificent windows in the kingdom, 46 feet
high by 23 feet wide; the intrado of the arch is enriched by a series of
small trefoil panels; the label rises high above it in the ogee form,
richly crocketed and terminated in a finial. The window is in the
decorated style, and divided horizontally by transoms, and
perpendicularly by six mullions, into seven compartments for the glass,
the lower division having blank panels which have never been pierced for
glazing. The arched head is gracefully pointed and filled with a
profusion of the most rich and delicate tracery.
On each side of the window are the remains of a canopied niche, which
once contained statues, probably of Saint Peter and St. Paul, the tutelar
saints of the Abbey.
The north and south-west angles of the tower are flanked by shelving
buttresses, having their sets-off worked into pedimented weatherings.
The bell chamber has two windows on each side, between those of the
western front is an elegant canopied niche containing the statue of an
armed knight, bearing in one hand a mutilated sword, the other appears to
have once projected from the body, but is now broken. The figure has a
conical basinet, encircled by a crown, fastened to a camail of mail,
which covers the neck, shoulders, and breast to the hips, and is finished
by an emblazoned jupon. The thighs and legs are encased in plate armour.
This statue is supposed to represent Edward the Third, in whose reign the
tower was probably built.
On the north side of the church is a lofty and handsome porch, the
entrance to which is under a pointed arch resting on round columns, and
peculiarly recessed within a square aperture charged with shields; above
is a chamber (formerly in two stories) lighted by small mullioned windows
whose arches are nearly flat. On each side are niches, in one of which
is the remains of a figure. The ceiling of the porch is cylindrical,
without ornament, and the interior doorway a plain semi-circular arch
with round mouldings.
The exterior of the side aisles displays a series of modern gables, each
of which contains a mullioned window. The eastern end of the church is
finished by a wall run up between the remains of the two western piers
that supported a central tower, in which a pointed window is inserted.
This, however, will soon be removed, and three elegant Norman lights
substituted by private munificence.
On the south side the gables are at present miserably repaired with
brickwork, but it is to be hoped that ere long the public spirit and good
taste of the town will be exercised in such a manner as to assist the
parishioners in the proper restoration of this side of the church, which
presents so striking a feature from the new line of the London road.
The south aisle is entered by a plain Norman arch, resting on slender
shafts, and which once communicated with the western wing of the
cloister; the approach from the opposite eastern wing was by a pointed
doorway; adjoining this is the ruined wall of the transept, in which are
two round arches, supposed to have formed portions of a side aisle, or
small chantry chapel west of the transept.
THE INTERIOR
presents a majestic appearance of solemnity, calculated to raise devout
and profound veneration towards that ALMIGHTY BEING to whose service and
honour the edifice is dedicated, as well as to enchain the attention to
the scriptural motto inscribed upon the north portal—“REVERENCE MY
SANCTUARY.”
The nave is separated from the side aisles by five arches: two, which on
each side join the tower, are in the pure style of the 14th century, and
delicately lined with deep mouldings resting on clustered columns, and
exhibit very distinctly the taste which prevailed in engrafting the more
elegant pointed upon the massy Anglo-Norman style; the former, it will be
clearly seen, have been formed out of the original semi-circular arches,
similar to the three eastward, which rest on short thick round pillars
(16½ feet in circumference) of the plainest Norman character. Above
these is a story of smaller arches in the same style, now filled up, but
which evidently shew that it was the intention of the monastery to
assimilate them to the style adopted in the side windows of the tower and
western portion of the nave: the alteration, however, was not completed.
The pointed arch opposite the north porch is partly filled by a skreen,
the remnant of a small chantry chapel which formerly occupied this
portion of the church. This skreen is adorned with a series of foliated
niches once enriched with sculpture.
The ceiling of the church is painted in imitation of an oak ribbed roof,
ornamented with flowers, the intersections of the ribs being finished
with bosses, and the interstices with quatrefoils. A lofty beautiful
pointed arch, 52 feet high, springing from richly moulded imposts divides
the tower from the nave, by which the whole front of the great western
window is displayed. This window is filled with a series of armorial
bearings in stained glass, restored in 1814 at the expence and under the
direction of the Rev. W. G. Rowland, M.A. from a drawing in the Heralds’
College.
_First row_: 1. Beauchamp; 2. Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester; 3.
King Richard the Second; 4. John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster; 5. Edmund
of Langley, Duke of York; 6. Stafford.
_Second row_: 7. Audley; 8. Clare; 9. B. a lion rampant O. (the arms of
the monastery); 10. Barry of twelve, A. and S.
_Third row_: 11. Mortimer Earl of March; 12. Fitzalan and Warren.
_Fourth row_: 13. Montague; 14. Boteler of Wem; 15. Ufford Earl of
Suffolk; 16. B. on a bend A. three escallops S.
_Fifth row_: 17. Warren Earl of Surrey; 18, 19, 20. B. a lion rampant
within a bordure O. (probably intended for the three Norman Earls of
Shrewsbury); 21. Blundeville Earl of Chester; 22. Sir Philip de Burnell.
_Sixth row_: 23. England and France quarterly; 24. John of Hainault; 25.
Strange of Blackmere; 26. Strange of Knockin; 27. Lisle; 28. Mortimer
Earl of March; 29. Arundel and Warren; 30. France semée and England; 31.
Arundel and Maltravers; 32. Corbet; 33. Albini; 34. Latimer; 35. Roger de
Montgomery; 36. Sir Simon de Burley impaling Stafford; which last
bearings will probably fix the date when the original window was put up,
viz. about the 12th of King Richard the Second.
The whole extent of the tower is occupied by a spacious gallery, in which
is an excellent organ made by Gray, of London, and erected in 1806 at a
cost of 365 guineas. The front of the gallery is a gothic skreen of
three arches, divided by buttresses, and displays the armorial bearings
of the principal benefactors to the organ.
The eastern window contains six resplendent figures in stained glass,
executed by Mr. David Evans, of Shrewsbury, viz. ST. JAMES, KING DAVID,
ST. JOHN, KING SOLOMON (as in the act of consecrating the Temple), ST.
PETER, and ST. PAUL, with their respective emblems. The figures were
placed in rich tracery work in 1836, but the window was originally set up
in 1820, with the following inscription:—AEDI . SANCTAE . CRUCIS . Post .
Annos . Viginti . Septem . In . SACRIS . EJUS . Administrandis . Impensos
. Dono . Dedit . Gvlielmvs . Gorsvch . Rowland . anno . salvtis .
MDCCCXX.
Below this window is a series of highly-enriched Norman arches, forming
the altar skreen, erected from a design by Mr. Carline, and at the
expense of the Rev. Richard Scott, B. D. which has given a most imposing
feature to this part of the church.
The north-east window was the gift of the late Lord Berwick, and
previously to the year 1820 stood over the altar. In the centre
compartment is a large figure of St. Peter, and the remainder of the
window is occupied by the arms of the See of Lichfield, those of the
munificent donor, and thirteen escutcheons of the incumbents from the
Reformation to 1804. A rich border lines the mullions, and at the bottom
is inscribed—MVNIFICENTIA • VIRI • PRAENOBILIS • THOMAE • NOEL • BARONIS
• BERWICK • DE • ATTINGHAM • HVJVS • ECCLESIAE • PATRONI • ANNO • SALVTIS
• MDCCCVI.
Small windows divided by a single mullion are placed in the eastern
arches of the side aisles (which formerly opened with the transepts);
that on the north side has the arms of Mortimer, Fitzalan, Talbot, and
Berkeley, in stained glass. The corresponding window of the south aisle
has three ancient shields (originally in the great chamber of the abbey)
bearing the arms of France and England, Roger de Montgomery, and the
symbols of the Patron Saints, the key and sword, in saltire.
In the south aisle is a beautiful mosaic window of stained glass, by Mr.
D. Evans, containing twelve shields of the armorial bearings of families
connected with the late Rev. John Rocke. Underneath is inscribed—MAJORVM
SVORVM INSIGNIA DEPINGI CURAVIT JOHANNES ROCKE, MDCCCXX.
The western portion of the south aisle is walled from the church for a
vestry, near which, on a pavement of emblazoned tiles, stands the Font:
the pedestal is carved with zigzag mouldings, and supports a round basin,
ornamented with chevron work and small arched panels. This originally
belonged to the church at High Ercall.
Another font, found some years since in the adjoining garden, is at the
eastern end of the north aisle. Its basin represents an open flower,
over which is festooned drapery supported from the mouths of grotesque
heads; the pillar on which it is fixed formed the upper part of the
ancient cross which formerly stood opposite the south door of St. Giles’s
church. On the sides are sculptured the Crucifixion, the Visitation, the
Virgin and Child, and a person in the act of devotion.
Length of the church from east to west 123 feet, breadth (including
aisles) 63 feet; the tower is 104 feet in height, and contains a fine
mellow peal of eight bells.
MONUMENTS—SOUTH AISLE.
The oldest monument in the church is the mutilated cumbent figure of a
warrior clad in mail of the date of King John’s reign, and conjectured by
the heralds at the visitation in 1623 to be the effigy of the Founder of
the abbey, who died July 27th, 1094. It has been placed on a basement of
early pointed arches, by the Rev. W. G. Rowland, M.A. to whose taste this
church is mainly indebted for its interior beauty and interest.
On the fall of St. Chad’s and the demolition of St. Alkmund’s church,
several ancient monuments found an habitation within the aisles of this
church. To enumerate all the inscriptions on these and other memorials
would far exceed the prescribed limits of these pages: a brief survey
must therefore suffice.
Commencing at the eastern end of the south aisle, we find—a bust, under a
Roman arch, in alderman’s robes, representing John Lloyd, alderman of
this town, who died in 1647, aged 53.
Near this is a handsome altar-tomb bearing two cumbent figures, an
alderman in his civic robes, with picked beard and bareheaded, and a lady
in a scarlet gown, finished after the stiff habit of the times, denoting
William Jones and Eleanor his wife; the former died in 1612, and the
latter in 1623. These were brought from St. Alkmund’s.
An alabaster tomb from Wellington old church, described by Dugdale as “a
faire raised monument, whereon is cut the portraiture of a man in armour,
and by him his wife, with this inscription”—
Hic jacet in Tumba corpus Will’mi Chorlton armigeri et Anne Uxor’
ejus; que quidem Anna obiit vii die mensis Junii, Anno D’ni Mill’imo
cccccxxiiii. et dictas Will’ms obiit p’mo die mensis Julii anno d’ni
mill’imo cccccxliiii. quorum animab’ p’picietur Deus.
On the sides of the tomb are a series of canopied niches, with figures of
angels and friars bearing shields, on which are emblazoned armorial
bearings of the families of _Charlton_, _Zouch_, and _Horde_; one of the
friars is remarkable, having a fox’s head peeping out from under his long
gown.
In this part are handsome mural tablets with Latin inscriptions to the
memory of individuals of the families of ROCKE, PRINCE, BALDWIN, &c. &c.
Near the south entrance is the cumbent figure of a cross-legged knight in
linked armour, with surcoat, sword in scabbard, gauntlets on his hands,
spurs on his heels, and his feet resting on a lion. It is considered to
be the effigy of _Sir Walter de Dunstanville_, Lord of Ideshale, and a
benefactor to Wombridge Priory, from whence the figure was brought. He
died 25th Henry III.
NORTH AISLE.
Resting on a basement is a curious ancient ridge-backed gravestone, on
which is cut a foliated cross; under this is a small figure clad as a
priest, close to whose head is attached the outline of a bell. On the
right side is a chalice, a book, and a candle; round the edge of the
stone is T: M: O: R: E: U: A, which is conjectured to mean Thomas More,
Vicarius Abbatiæ. It was removed from St. Giles’s.
Among other ancient cumbent figures in this aisle, one is supposed to
represent a Judge who died in Shrewsbury, being robed to the feet, and
having a coif drawn close over his head, and tied under the chin. It is
of the date of Edward I.
Another monumental statue clad in plate armour displays a long loose robe
as the surcoat, which is curiously disposed on one side to shew the
warlike character of the deceased, whose armour, belt, and dagger would
have been otherwise concealed. The head is wrapped in a close cowl.
From the peculiarity of the robe being thrown back, this effigy is
probably unique. Froissart asserts that a similar dress was worn in
battle, and that this kind of long loose drapery proved fatal to Sir John
Chandos, for he “wore over his armour a large robe which fell to ye
ground;” and as it appears, when he marched “entangled his legs so that
he made a stumble, and was killed by the enemy.” The costume of the
present figure (which originally stood on an altar-tomb in St. Alkmund’s
church) may be attributed to the close of the 14th century; but whom it
represents is now unknown.
On the side walls are several neat tablets. An elegant canopied niche
with pinnacles commemorates Edward Jenkins, Esq. of Charlton Hill, co.
Salop, who ably distinguished himself in the first American war, being
then a lieutenant in the 60th regiment, and died May 1, 1820, in his 81st
year.
At the eastern end is a large altar-tomb, on which are recumbent figures
of Richard Onslow, Esq. (Speaker of the House of Commons in the reign of
Elizabeth), and his lady Catherine; the former is dressed in his robes of
office, and the latter in the dress of the times. On the sides and ends
of the monument are small figures of his sons and daughters. He died in
1571, and was buried at St. Chad’s.
Above this is a mural monument representing a gentleman and lady kneeling
opposite to each other under a rich Grecian entablature; the former is
clad in a ruff and long gown, and the latter has a long veil thrown back.
They represent Thomas Edwards, Esq. who died 1634, and Ann his wife,
daughter of Humfrey Baskerville, alderman of London. Over the
entablature is a lady in a richly-laced habit, and a little girl
kneeling, intended for Mary, wife of Thomas Edwards, Esq. and daughter of
Thomas Bonham Norton, Esq. who died in childbirth, 1641.
In the vestry is an old painting of the Crucifixion, which was a century
ago “turned out of the church,” and occasioned at the time some strife
between the parson and his flock.
The living is a vicarage, with St. Giles’s annexed, in the gift of the
Right Hon. Lord Berwick, who received it from the Crown in exchange for
three small livings in Suffolk.
The ruins of the monastic buildings, which are now scattered over an
extent of about nine acres, are not considerable, and will be described
in a notice of the suburb of Abbey-foregate.
SAINT GILES’S CHURCH.
[Picture: St. Giles’s Church, N.W.]
Sacred edifices, under the invocation of this Saint, were generally
founded “without the city;” that in this town occupies a situation at the
eastern extremity of the suburb of Abbey-foregate.
The structure is unquestionably as old as the early part of the twelfth
century; and while presenting an interesting picture of the work of
former times, has a tendency to lead the mind, under fit impressions, to
the hope of a less perishable, “greater, and more perfect tabernacle.”
It consists of a nave, chancel, and north aisle, with a small turret at
the western end, in which a bell has lately been introduced. The
principal entrance is at the south, under a Norman arch. The north aisle
is separated from the nave by three pointed arches sustained on plain
round columns, formed (it appears) in the thickness of the wall, and
peculiarly flanked on the north side by square piers, having an upper and
lower narrow moulding adorned with recessed quatrefoils. These piers, it
is presumed, originally served as buttresses to strengthen the outward
wall of the fabric, which on receiving the addition of a north aisle
(evidently at a very early period), a communication was then opened with
the nave by perforating the wall into arches, which are of the era when
the Norman was giving way to the pointed style. It is not improbable but
this aisle was made for the accommodation of persons afflicted with
leprosy, to which they had access from the adjoining hospital by a
pointed doorway, and where they might hear the offices of religion
without endangering other worshippers with their contagious malady. At
the east end is a curious round-headed window with mullions.
A fine pointed arch separates the nave from the chancel, which is
terminated by a flat-arched mullioned window, containing a noble
collection of stained glass, executed by Mr. David Evans, of Shrewsbury.
The four lower compartments have full-length figures of THE EVANGELISTS,
standing upon hexagonal pedestals, through the external circular arches
of which is exhibited the groined roof of a crypt supported by slender
pillars. Over each figure is a beautiful canopy of tabernacle work, and
in the intersections of the tracery are the symbols of the Evangelists,
each supporting a tablet, on which is respectively inscribed, in small
characters—
Mattheus Christi stirpens et genus ordine narrat
Marcus Baptistam clamantem inducit eremo
Virgine pregnatum Lucas describit Jesum
Prodit Joannes verbi impenetrabile lumen.
The three principal compartments in the upper division display fine
representations from ancient designs of THE SALUTATION, THE WISE MENS’
OFFERING, and THE PRESENTATION IN THE TEMPLE, beneath each of which is a
Latin text: the first is taken from Luke i. 28; the second from Psalm
lxxii. 10; the third from Luke ii. 29, 30. At the bottom of the window,
GULIELMUS GORSUCH ROWLAND DONO DEDIT.
The small Norman loop-hole on the north side contains a figure of St.
Giles, and is an exquisite imitation of ancient stained glass.
On the south side of the chancel is a low pointed arch, the stone-work of
which projects outside the building, and was no doubt originally intended
to contain the remains of a master of the hospital. After the plaister
had been removed in 1826, which brought to view this archway, the ground
at its base was opened, when a stone grave cased with brick-work was
discovered, with part of the bones of two individuals. In 1685 it
appears to have been used for the interment of the individual whose name
is inscribed on the stone, and to prevent (if possible) that ejection of
himself which must have befallen the remains of a former tenant, it is
further added
STVR NOT MY BONES
WHICH ARE LAYDE IN CLAYE
FOR I MVST RISE AT
THE RESVRRECTION DAY.
THE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH
[Picture: St. Giles’ Church—Interior View]
Possesses much of its primitive character, being unencumbered with pews,
and until the last few years exhibited a still more rude appearance of
damp and neglect. Many important improvements, however, have been
effected within and around the building, especially in placing drains
around the exterior, which have not only rendered the interior free from
damp, but contributed also to the dryness of the cemetery. The
alterations in the nave consist in levelling and repairing the floor,
ceiling the roof, and appropriately colouring the walls and rafters;
removing the pulpit from the corner of the fine arch leading into the
chancel to the south-east corner of the nave, and placing stone tracery
of a bold design in the large pointed window of the south wall. The
windows of the north aisle are filled with fragments of stained glass
ingeniously disposed, so as to represent the outline of figures. {82}
In feet, whoever has visited this ancient church during its former
wretched state will be astonished; it now truly looks
“As though we own’d a God, adored his power,
Rever’d his wisdom, loved his mercy.”
And its sacred walls will, it is to be hoped, no more echo with the
twittering of birds,—the sparrow find a place of security over the altar,
or the swallow be permitted to “build her brooding nest” above its
antique pulpit; altho’ these are striking resemblances of the
tranquillity and peace which the means of grace are to a christian, and
which seem to inhabit the house of the Deity.
But the sentiment which this venerable place impressed was in some
measure checked by its disuse, divine service being only celebrated
within its walls twice a year.
Since the foregoing account was written, the author of these Memorials
has the pleasure to record that regular service was commenced in this
church on Sunday, June 19, 1836, which will form a great convenience to
the increasing population of the neighbourhood. Nine new oak pews have
been subsequently erected within its walls, from a design by Mr. Carline,
and at the expence of the Reverend Richard Scott, B. D. who has also
contributed a sum that will, with the letting of the pews, further
increase the stipend of a minister. Much has been very justly said
against the deformity which the introduction of pews has rendered to
churches; those, however, placed in this structure meet every objection,
and are perfect models of what pews should be,—fixed forms having backs,
but without doors;—adapted for a devotional rather than a lounging
posture. On the outside partition of each is a small carved finial, and
the whole are in unison with the style of the church and ancient benches
still remaining on the south side. A new altar-piece has been placed
above the communion-table: the latter was presented by an inhabitant of
the parish, and the former by Mr. Scott.
The dimensions of the church are—nave 45 feet by 36, chancel 20 feet by
15, total length 65 feet. The font is the upper portion of a Norman
pillar with the capital hollowed, and originally belonged to the Abbey
church.
It may be mentioned, that after the monks of Shrewsbury had obtained
possession of the bones of St. Wenefrede in 1137, those precious relics
were deposited on the altar of this church, until a shrine worthy their
reception could be prepared in the Abbey.
On the floor are several ancient stones bearing crosses, no doubt
denoting the interment of some of the masters of the old hospital of St.
Giles.
A spacious cemetery surrounds the building, where the contemplative mind,
“Free from noise and riot rude,”
may resort, and, unmolested by the vulgar gaze of unsympathizing
intruders, pour the grateful tribute of a sigh, or embalm afresh the
memory of that departed spirit with whom he once took generous and
undesigning counsel; and renew in imagination, through time’s dim mist,
hours consecrated to friendship.
In this silent repository are gravestones 200 years old, many inhabitants
of the town having selected it as their last resting place, from a
feeling similar to that inscribed upon a tomb in the south-west corner of
the church-yard:
Ut Nemini noceret Mortuus,
Qui Unicuique pro re nata succurrere voluit Vivus,
Hic extra Urbem sese contumulandum præcipiebat,
CHENEY HART, M.D.
Warringtoni in agro Lancastriensi natus Nov. 17–28, 1726.
A stone near the south window covers the remains of John Whitfield,
surgeon, on which is recorded an epitaph, the very quintessence of
chemical brevity—
I. W.
COMPOSITA SOLVANTUR.
Opposite the south door is the socket of an ancient stone cross, the
upper portion of which supports a font in the Abbey church.
From hence likewise is an extensive view of the town, with the different
churches displayed to much picturesque advantage, the vale below being
watered by the meanderings of the Rea brook; while the more distant
prospect, chequered with mountains and woody knolls, verdant pastures and
rural habitations, presents a striking picture of
“Life’s fair landscape, mark’d with light and shade.”
SAINT MICHAEL’S CHURCH
[Picture: St. Michael’s Church, Castle-foregate]
Stands on a pleasant site in the populous suburb of Castle Foregate. The
western side commands an interesting view of the town. The venerable
Castle with its towers and hoary walls, the Royal Free Grammar School,
and the lofty spires of St. Mary’s and St. Alkmund’s churches, combine to
form a most pleasing group; whilst the fine church of Saint Chad, backed
by distant mountains, stands prominent in the front. On the northern
side of the building is a picturesque dell, along which the majestic
Severn formerly poured its crystal stream.
The church is a respectable building in the Doric style, composed of
brick. It was erected by subscription, and consecrated for divine
worship August 24th, 1830.
In plan, it consists of a tower, nave, side aisles, and an elliptical
recess for the communion, with a vestry in the base of the tower.
The tower is of three divisions, and rises to the height of 70 feet; the
basement is square, on which rests an octagonal belfry, crowned by a
similar division of smaller dimensions, having a cornice charged with
lions’ heads, the whole being surmounted by an angular lead roof and a
gilded cross.
The body of the church is in length 70 ft. 6 in. and in breadth 40 ft. 6
in. and has a stone plinth, cornice, and parapet. The windows throughout
are circular-headed, having unbroken stone dressings surrounding them.
THE INTERIOR is approached by two entrances, north and south, beneath a
stone cornice sustained on pilasters; and, if not splendid in decoration,
it has that solemnity which becometh the House of God: it possesses,
however, one great advantage, in being capable of comfortably
accommodating a congregation of 800 persons, 620 of whom may possess free
sittings. On the floor are thirty-six pews, the other part being
entirely free. There are galleries over the north and south aisles, and
at the western end, the whole of which are free sittings. These
galleries are sustained on cast-iron columns, which are also continued
for the support of the roof.
The ceiling has a good effect, being panelled in large square
compartments, and beautifully painted in imitation of oak. The pulpit
and reading desk are octagonal, and are placed on opposite sides of the
church.
The eastern end is finished by three panels, inscribed with the
Decalogue, &c. Three windows of splendid stained glass decorate the
chancel. The subject of the centre one is the NATIVITY, from the
celebrated “La Notte” of Correggio, and is a most masterly production of
the art of glass-staining, especially in the management of light suitable
to the time and scene of the subject. Underneath is the inscription in
Roman capitals—“AND THEY CAME WITH HASTE, AND FOUND MARY, AND JOSEPH, AND
THE BABE LYING IN A MANGER.”
The windows on each side of the above are designed from the ANNUNCIATION,
and the PRESENTATION IN THE TEMPLE, the former from a painting by Guido
in the chapel of the palace on the Monte Cavallo of Rome. The angel, a
beautiful figure arrayed in yellow drapery tastefully displayed, is in
the act of presenting to the virgin a lily, while his attitude and
countenance seem to bespeak the emphatic words of the motto inscribed
beneath—“HAIL! THOU THAT ART HIGHLY FAVOURED AMONG WOMEN; THE LORD IS
WITH THEE.” The other is from the celebrated picture at Antwerp, by
Rubens, and founded on the words of holy Simeon—“LORD, NOW LETTEST THOU
THY SERVANT DEPART IN PEACE: ACCORDING TO THY WORD.”
These windows, perfect gems of the art, were executed by Mr. David Evans,
of Shrewsbury, and were the gift of the Rev. W. G. Rowland, M.A. Minister
and Official of St. Mary’s.
There is a small but excellent organ in the west gallery, and the tower
contains a light peal of six bells, cast in 1830. The architect of the
church was Mr. J. Carline; and when it is considered that it was erected
at an expence of little more than £2000, criticism is disarmed in the
substantial appearance which it possesses.
The cemetery surrounding the church is particularly neat; a gravel walk
extends along its sides, and the ground is laid out in divisions for
graves and vaults, which are numbered according to a plan kept with the
sexton.
This church is in St. Mary’s parish, with the minister of which the
presentation is vested.
SAINT GEORGES CHURCH.
[Picture: St. George’s Church, Frankwell]
SAINT GEORGE’S CHURCH is situated at the upper end of the suburb of
Frankwell, and is dedicated to the tutelar saint of England, from its
proximity to the site of an ancient religious foundation called in old
writings “The free chapel of St. George.”
The present church was consecrated January 30th, 1832, and is cruciform
in plan, having a small tower rising at the west end; it is built with
fine Grinshill stone, from a design by Mr. Haycock. The architecture
adopted throughout the building, with the exception of the tower, is of
the lancet or early pointed style.
The west front is of three divisions guarded by projecting buttresses,
the centre portion forming the principal entrance, a pointed arch bounded
by a sweeping label; above this is a lancet light, succeeded by a panel
intended for a clock dial. From this part the tower shows itself above
the roof to the height of about 20 feet, and has mullioned windows in the
style of the 16th-century, surmounted by an embattled parapet and four
crocketed pinnacles crowned with finials. The flanks of the west end are
quite plain, having in their centre narrow blank loopholes.
The nave has on each side four lancet windows, bounded by labels; and the
northern and southern extremities of the transepts, with the chancel or
eastern end, have triple lancet windows with recessed mouldings, resting
on grotesque carved heads. The transepts and chancel terminate with
gables, having on their apex a crocketed pinnacle.
The extreme length of the church is about 84 feet, and 30 feet in width,
the transepts from north to south are 66 feet, and the tower to the
summit of the pinnacles 60 feet.
THE INTERIOR
possesses a very pleasing appearance. The basement of the tower forms
the vestibule, which is flanked on one side by the vestry, and on the
other by the stairs leading to the gallery. The aisles of the nave and
transepts are occupied by free benches, with a passage on either hand,
the pews being placed along the side walls of the entire building.
The font is of free-stone, and placed on a pedestal in the area between
the transepts; the basin is octangular, having on its side compartments a
small quatrefoil sunk within a square panel.
On each side of the communion table are two carved gothic chairs; and
nearly the whole extent of the eastern wall of the chancel is covered
with a handsome altar skreen.
The three lancet windows are filled with splendid stained glass.
The subject occupying the centre window is a full-length figure of
ISAIAH, in an attitude strikingly prophetic, and clothed in a brilliant
vest of purple, over which is thrown a green robe lined with ermine,
denoting his royal descent.
The corresponding windows on each side have spirited figures of ST.
MATTHEW and ST. MARK. The former exhibits deep and serious meditation,
with a most benign countenance; in his right hand is a halbert, and in
his left a Greek manuscript. ST. MARK is a most venerable figure, whose
head appears covered with the frost of hoary years, and he is pointing to
an open gospel which he holds in his left hand.
The figures stand on rich bases, which display an highly ornamented
quatrefoil, and are surmounted by canopies of the most elegant crocketed
tabernacle work, which have a truly pleasing effect.
At the base of the window is a series of pointed arches in ruby glass,
beneath which is the following inscription: HANC • FENESTRAM • PICTURATAM
• AEDIS • SANCTI • GEORGII • DECORANDAE • ERGO • DONAVIT • RICARDUS •
SCOTT • SACRAE • THEOLOGIAE • BACCALAUREUS • ANNO • SALUTIS •
MDCCCXXXIII.
The triple windows of the north and south transepts are also embellished
by the same benefactor with elegant mosaic patterns of elaborate
workmanship, vying in richness and mellowness of colouring with the
finest specimens of ancient stained glass.
The taste displayed in the execution of these windows is highly
creditable to the talents of our townsman, Mr. David Evans, and will, we
trust, long remain as a noble example of private generosity.
Attached to the west end is a deep gallery of free seats, which contains
a small organ, presented by the Rev. Richard Scott, B.D. in 1834.
The church was erected by a public subscription and a grant from the
commissioners for building churches. The total cost, exclusive of the
site, was nearly £4000, of which sum, however, £400 has been vested in
the name of trustees as a fund for future repairs.
There are 57 pews which will accommodate 290 persons, and 460 free and
unappropriated sittings.
The right of presentation is in the vicar of St. Chad’s.
* * * * *
THE OLD HOSPITAL OF ST. GEORGE stood on a site eastward between the
present church and the Welsh bridge, which latter, as early as the reign
of Henry II. was called “Saint George’s Bridge.” About the year 1150,
the Bishop of Coventry, considering the great poverty of the brethren of
the Hospital of St. George, Salop, released to all who should contribute
to their necessities “thirteen days of penance enjoined them, and a share
of all the prayers and alms within his Bishoprick.” In 1418 the church
appears to have been in the gift of the Crown, and is supposed to have
been taken down early in the reign of Elizabeth.
TRINITY CHURCH.
[Picture: Trinity Church, Coleham]
The necessity of additional church accommodation for a population of 2200
persons who inhabit the SUBURB OF COLEHAM having been generally
acknowledged, inasmuch as most of them were destitute of sittings in the
parish church, where many of the pews are freehold, and others let at
such rents as are beyond the means not only of the labouring poor (who
form the greater part of the township) but of the class immediately above
them, a meeting of the parishioners and others interested in the
spiritual welfare of this isolated district of the town, was therefore
held in the vestry of St. Julian’s church, Dec. 7th, 1835, when it was
resolved to be highly necessary to erect a chapel of ease in Coleham,
with free sittings for at least two-thirds of the number it may contain.
A committee was formed for the purpose of carrying the proposed design
into execution, and of soliciting pecuniary assistance in all proper
quarters. No sooner was this announced than Salopian generosity was
immediately excited, and the town and neighbourhood by their
contributions, in co-operation with those of the parishioners, soon
raised one thousand pounds, which has been subsequently increased by a
grant of £600 from the Lichfield Diocesan Society for building churches,
and a further grant of £150 from the Incorporated Church Building
Society.
The parishioners of St. Julian’s, desirous also of remedying the
inconvenient and crowded state resulting from repeated interments in the
cemetery adjoining their church during a period of one thousand years,
purchased an eligible piece of land in MEOLE ROAD, for the two-fold
purpose of erecting the new church and affording additional burial
ground. The foundations of the church were commenced in July, 1836, and
(under active management) the structure is now in rapid progress towards
completion, and will be dedicated to the Holy Trinity.
The front elevation is sufficiently detailed in the foregoing vignette;
the body has four windows on each side, corresponding with those in the
front. The chancel is an elliptical recess, separated from the nave
internally by a circular arch.
The interior is 72 feet by 46, and intended to afford 812 sittings, 500
of which will be free, having a gallery over the principal entrance.
Without further detail of the building, it may be observed that it
possesses one paramount advantage, viz. _usefulness_; and it is to be
hoped, that as the inhabitants of the suburbs of our town become
possessed of greater facilities for hearing the Word of God, they may
value the blessing, and support it practically by their influence and
example.
The estimated cost is about £1835; builder, Mr. Stant. The appointment
of minister is vested with the incumbent of the parish church.
* * * * *
RELIGIOUS HOUSES or Chapels, in former times, stood at five different
approaches into Shrewsbury: of these St. Giles’s only remains.
The chapel of St. Mary Magdalene appears from the following extract to
have occupied a site near Trinity church. Edward III. 5 June, 1356,
granted to his beloved in Christ _Roger_, Hermit of the Chapel of St.
Mary Magdalene, situated without Salop, a certain plat of waste called
Spelcrosse, contiguous to the said chapel, and containing an acre of
land: to hold the same to him and his successors, hermits there, for
their habitation, and to find a chaplain to pray in the chapel for the
king’s soul, &c. A deed also of 1634 mentions “The Hermitage lane
leading into Meole-field.” A tea-garden near the site of “Belle Vue”
was, in the recollection of many inhabitants, called “the Hermitage.”
DISSENTING MEETING HOUSES.
The first regular Presbyterian congregation formed in Shrewsbury was by
the Reverends John Bryan, M.A. and the learned Francis Tallents, who were
ejected by the Act of Uniformity in 1662 from the livings of St. Chad’s
and St. Mary’s. After experiencing the various alternations of suffering
and indulgence during the unsettled reign of Charles the First, and
assembling for some time in private houses, they at length built a
meeting house in the High-street, in 1691. But while they separated
themselves from the established church on account of her discipline, they
did not renounce the leading doctrines of the gospel as preserved in that
church, which is evident from the inscription set up in their new
building:—
“This place was not built for a faction, or a party, but to promote
repentance and faith, in communion with all those who love our Lord
Jesus Christ in sincerity.
“Our help is in the name of the Lord, who made heaven and earth.”
The year 1715 was particularly unfortunate for the Protestant Dissenters
in this and the adjoining counties: several of their places of worship
were destroyed by riotous mobs raised against the king and his
government. During the violence of these insurrections, the High-street
meeting house was demolished, in the night of July 6th, 1715, and the
pulpit publicly burnt. Government, however, speedily caused it to be
rebuilt; after which the royal arms were placed within the building.
The good and pious Job Orton preached here for several years. On his
resignation in 1766, a difference of sentiment arose among the members of
the congregation in the choice of a minister. The building is now used
for worship by the Unitarians. It is 70 feet by 30, and fitted up in the
heavy style of the last century.
THE INDEPENDENTS.
The place occupied by this denomination had its origin in consequence of
the schism in the High-street congregation, and is situated in a retired
area on Swan-hill. It is a substantial square edifice, with a neatly
finished interior. On a stone tablet in the front is the following
inscription:
“This building was erected in the year 1767, for the Public Worship
of God, and in defence of the Rights of Majorities in Protestant
Dissenting Congregations to choose their own Ministers.”
On the north-east side is a spacious vestry, containing portraits of the
Rev. Mr. Tallents and other ejected clergymen. The space adjoining three
sides of the building is used as a cemetery.
BAPTISTS.
A society of this persuasion is stated to have existed in this town in
the time of the Commonwealth. The meeting house, in Claremont-street,
was opened in 1780, and enlarged in 1810. It contains a monument in
memory of Mr. Palmer, who was pastor of the congregation 27 years, and
died in 1823.
THE SECOND BAPTISTS
Seceded from the above society in 1827, and built a place for worship in
Castle Foregate, which was opened April 9, 1830. They retain, however,
the doctrines of Particular or Calvinistic Baptists, as professed by the
former society.
THE WESLEYAN METHODISTS
Assemble on St. John’s hill, in a building erected in 1804, and which was
enlarged and decorated in 1825. Galleries surround the interior, in
which is a small organ. The pulpit stands in the middle aisle.
A small building erected at Spring Gardens, Castle Foregate (by the
proprietor of the land) was opened Feb. 26, 1826, in connexion with this
society. The service is free, and the place is used at certain hours on
the Sunday as a school.
THE METHODIST NEW CONNEXION
appear to claim a mutual relationship to the founder of Methodism with
the Wesleyans, and retain the doctrines, ordinances, and general
discipline common to that body, from which they differ only in the form
of church government and professed dissent from the Church of England.
This society formed a congregation here in 1833, and in Jan. 1834, an
edifice for their service was commenced near the Old Tower, Murivance,
which was opened June 13 in the same year.
The exterior is handsome, having two entrances with a Doric portico to
each, and is divided into three parts, viz. a centre and two wings,
formed with Corinthian pilasters, frieze, and cornice; the centre
terminates with a pediment, and the wings with a broken blocking and
Grecian tiles. The interior is without galleries, and arranged on rather
a novel plan; the middle is occupied by two rows of pews, with a row on
each of the sides which ascend gradually from the floor, and thereby
afford great economy of space.
Two ends of the building being flanked by dwellings, light is admitted
from the side portions, but a good effect, notwithstanding, is produced
from the blank walls, which display arches and plain pilasters supporting
a frieze and cornice.
The ground at the back declining considerably from the street, spacious
school-rooms, a vestry, and a house for the door-keeper, are formed
underneath the building, which is calculated to contain 700 persons, and
cost £1500.
THE WELSH CALVINISTIC METHODISTS
meet in a neat structure in Hill’s Lane, erected by a subscription on a
portion of the site of a former edifice, and was opened for worship Dec.
25, 1826. The service is in the Ancient British language.
THE PRIMITIVE METHODISTS
introduced themselves into this town in 1822, by preaching in the streets
and suburbs. The place originally built in Castle-court, Castle-street,
for the Sandemanian Baptists (a society in this town nearly extinct), was
purchased for them, and they commenced service there June 4th, 1826.
THE QUAKERS
have a convenient meeting-house, fitted up with much simplicity, and
neatness, on St. John’s Hill, to which a small burial ground is attached.
THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL
Is situated near the southern portion of the town walls. The exterior
exhibits a stuccoed pedimented front, surmounted by a plain cross. The
interior was enlarged in 1826, and is elegant in decoration, and
calculated to contain nearly 250 persons.
* * * * *
ROYAL FREE GRAMMAR SCHOOL.
[Picture: Royal Free Grammar School]
“Learning is an addition beyond
Nobility of birth: honour of blood,
Without the ornament of knowledge, is
But a glorious ignorance.”
SHIRLEY.
This noble public institution for the education of youth was founded by
KING EDWARD THE SIXTH, in 1561, on the supplication of Hugh Edwards and
Richard Whitaker, and endowed with the greater portion of the revenues of
the two dissolved colleges of Saint Mary and Saint Chad.—QUEEN ELIZABETH
greatly augmented her brother’s donation in 1571, by adding the whole
rectory of Chirbury, in this county, with additional tithes and estates
in St. Mary’s parish, which now produce a considerable revenue.
In 1798, the School having sunk into a state of comparative
insignificance, a bill was passed for the better government and
regulation of the Grammar School of King Edward the Sixth in this town,
by which the management of the revenues, and the removal or discharge of
the masters, is vested in the Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry (as
visitor) and thirteen trustees or governors. The appointment of head and
second masters rests with the Fellows of St. John’s College, Cambridge.
The school is open for the gratuitous instruction of the sons of freemen,
and has maintained a character of high repute from its earliest
formation. We learn that under the care of its first master, Thomas
Ashton, there were 290 scholars, among whom were many of the sons of the
gentry of the county and from North Wales, as well as from the first
families in the kingdom. Camden, when he wrote, says, “it was the best
filled in all England, being indebted for their flourishinge state to
provision made by the excellent and worthie Thomas Ashton,” who was
instrumental in procuring the grant of augmentation from Elizabeth, and
contributed greatly to the school himself, and from whose exertions and
judicious regulations it preserved its usefulness for many generations.
Many persons of eminence in by-gone days received their education in
Shrewsbury School. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth it sent forth one of
the most brilliant ornaments of her court, the gallant and accomplished
SYDNEY,—the “miracle of the age;”—and in the present day, under the able
management and profound learning of the late head-master, Dr. Butler, it
has maintained a pre-eminent rank among THE PUBLIC SEMINARIES OF SOUND
LEARNING AND RELIGIOUS EDUCATION in this country, having produced
numerous individuals who have been distinguished for their eminent
classical attainments; whilst it is an acknowledged fact that scarcely
any gentleman can be pointed out who has sent so many pupils to the
Universities, the greater part of whom have risen into general notice and
estimation, mainly owing to the excellent manner in which their natural
capacities had been directed by the distinguished and successful talents
of their tutor.
The affectionate interest manifested by Dr. Butler in the welfare of his
pupils remained nearest to his heart to the last. {101} And in retiring
from the duties of his scholastic station, in 1836, it appeared as his
greatest comfort and happiness to find that St. John’s College had given
a good earnest of its intention to uphold the character of the school
over which he had so long and so zealously presided, by the selection of
the Rev. Benjamin Hall Kennedy as has successor, an appointment (it will
be admitted by all) the most conducive to the future prosperity of the
school, and consequently beneficial to the town and neighbourhood;
inasmuch as it is stamped upon high and indubitable authority that Mr.
Kennedy is one of the most brilliant scholars which the learned editor of
Æschylus ever sent forth,—the brightest star in that galaxy of
distinguished pupils whose names adorn the boards of Shrewsbury school;
while from his experience of Dr. Butler’s system, both as a pupil and
assistant master in this seminary,—his subsequent practice as a lecturer
and private tutor at College, and as an assistant master for upwards of
six years at Harrow, as well as from his own unrivalled talents and high
literary distinctions,—from his fine taste and sound learning,—there is
not a shadow of doubt but that he will fully maintain the reputation
Shrewsbury School has already acquired.
The following annual prizes are distributed—
Pelham Prizes Latin Verse 20 guineas.
Greek Iambics 10 guineas.
Trustees’ Prize Latin Essay 20 guineas.
Assistant Master’s Prize Latin Translation 10 guineas.
Head Master’s Prizes For the First and Second Books.
in the Examination
In 1832 this ancient and royal foundation was visited by three members of
the royal family within two months: by his Royal Highness the Duke of
Sussex, Sept. 5th; by their Royal Highnesses the Duchess of Kent and the
Princess Victoria, Nov. 1st.
THE SCHOOLS
are situate near the Castle, and display a handsome spacious structure of
free-stone, built in the incongruous but fashionable style of
architecture which prevailed in the 16th and 17th century; wherein the
Grecian and pointed arches are fantastically mixed together. The
building occupies two sides of a quadrangle, with a square pinnacled
tower at the angle, partly rebuilt in 1831.
The original school-room was of timber, to which the tower, chapel, and
library were added in 1595. In the year 1630 the wooden portion was
removed, and its site occupied by the present edifice, in the centre of
which is a gateway, having a Corinthian column on each side, upon which
are statues of a scholar and a graduate, bareheaded, in the dress of the
times. Above the arch is a Greek inscription from Isocrates, which
implies that a love of literature is necessary to the formation of a
scholar. Over this are the armorial bearings of Charles the First.
The upper story of this part is occupied by the principal school-room, an
apartment 82 feet by 21, and in the basement is the head master’s school,
in which are several panels containing the names of gentlemen educated
here, and who have subsequently distinguished themselves at the
Universities. {103} The upper moulding of each panel contains one of the
following lines:—
TV • FACITO • MOX • CVM • MATVRA • ADOLEVERIT • AETAS SIS • MEMOR •
ATQVE • ANIMO • REPETAS • EXEMPLA • TVORVM ET • TVA • TE • VIRTVS •
MAGNA • INTER • PRAEMIA • DVCET.
The chapel forms the other wing of the building, and was consecrated
Sept. 10th, 1617, when a sermon was preached on the occasion by Sampson
Price, D.D. Chaplain in Ordinary to the King, from John x. 22, 23. It is
62 ft. long by 22 ft. wide, and contains a handsome pulpit and bible
stand, and is separated from the ante-chapel by a carved skreen,
displaying a series of interlaced arches resting on fluted Corinthian
columns. Prayers are read here twice on school days.
Above the chapel, and of the same size, is the library, a noble room,
rebuilt in 1815. The ceiling is richly adorned, and panelled into Gothic
and ornamental compartments, on which are displayed the armorial bearings
of the first and subsequent trustees. It contains a valuable collection
of printed books and manuscripts, one side being occupied by the library
of the late Dr. Taylor, editor of Demosthenes. Among the portraits which
decorate the walls of this elegant apartment are those of the Bishop of
Lichfield (late head master), the Reverends John Lloyd and Leonard
Hotchkiss (formerly masters), Queen Elizabeth, King Henry VIII. Edward
VI. (the Founder), Locke, Judge Jefferies, &c. &c.
At the south end of the room are four sepulchral stones found at
Wroxeter, near this town, three of which are fully described by Pennant,
in his North Wales. A small museum likewise contains other Roman
antiquities from the same place, with fossils and other curiosities.
The windows are embellished with escutcheons of the arms of Edward VI.
Queen Elizabeth, St. John’s College, Cambridge, the See of Lichfield, and
the town, in stained glass.
In front and at the back of the schools is a spacious area, used as a
promenade or play-ground for the scholars; contiguous to which are houses
for the head, second, and assistant masters, and ample halls for the
accommodation of boarders, who are numerous, and from all parts of the
kingdom.
Several exhibitions of £70 and £80 a-year belong to this school, to which
the freemen’s sons are entitled for a certain number of years. At a
meeting of the trustees, held 23d May, 1836, it was resolved, in order
more fully to testify their own sense, and to perpetuate the memory, of
the unremitting assiduity and eminent ability with which Dr. Butler has
performed the duties of head-master of this school for a period of
thirty-eight years, restoring and augmenting by his energy and learning
the utility and celebrity of this ancient and royal foundation, to found
an additional exhibition of £100 per annum, to be called for ever “DR.
BUTLER’S EXHIBITION,” and to be tenable by the sons of freemen entering
at either University.
LOCAL GOVERNMENT, CHARTERS, &c.
[Picture: Town Arms]
SHREWSBURY has received a succession of thirty-two royal charters from
the time of King William the First to the first year of the reign of
James the Second. The earliest charter preserved in the corporation
archives is dated Nov. 11, 1189, being the first year of King Richard the
First, which recites that a previous corporation had existed.
The last governing charter of the town was granted the 16th of June,
1639, by Charles the First.
The component parts of the corporation were a mayor, recorder, steward,
common clerk, twenty-four aldermen, forty-eight assistants or common
councilmen, two chamberlains, sword-bearer, serjeants at mace, &c.
The mayor was elected annually by the majority of aldermen and
assistants, in council assembled, on the first Friday after the feast of
St. Bartholomew, and sworn into office the first Friday after
Michaelmas-day. Robert Burton, jun. Esq. was the last mayor chosen under
the old charter.
The aldermen were elected by the mayor and aldermen from the assistants,
and the latter from the burgesses at large.
Burgesses obtained their freedom by descent, or birth, or by serving a
bona fide apprenticeship of seven years within the ancient limits of the
borough to a freeman of one of the ancient incorporated companies.
According to the Municipal Act, which received the royal assent in 1835,
the town was divided into five wards. {106}
On the 26th of December, 1835, each of the wards returned six members to
form the new Town Council, who elected to their number, on the 31st, ten
aldermen, which constitutes the municipal body of the town, from whom
William Hazledine, Esq. was elected Mayor. To assist in the local
government, the Secretary of State has subsequently appointed eight
magistrates. Under the provisions of the above cited act, the annual
election of mayor is fixed for the 9th of November.
The ancient COMMON SEAL of the municipal body is very curious,
representing a view of the town,—its churches, domestic habitations,
fortified gates and walls, beneath which the river is seen flowing under
a bridge; above the latter is a shield bearing the arms of England, and
on each side are similar shields charged with the cross of St. George and
the town arms,—Azure, three leopard’s faces Or. The inscription round
this seal is—Sigilin • commune • libertatis • ville • Salopesburie •
factu • ano • gre • m cccc xxv.
SESSIONS.
A petty sessions is held every Tuesday, and the mayor or some of the
magistrates sit most days for the determination of minor offences.
A general court of QUARTER SESSIONS and gaol delivery for the town and
liberties is held by the recorder, John Bather, Esq. on the Wednesday
after the county sessions.
COURT OF RECORD.
This town possesses the privilege of a court of record, where actions for
debt (to any amount) and ejectment within the liberties, can be brought.
Judgment in a suit may be obtained in about six weeks, if the defendant
pleads the general issue.
COURT OF REQUESTS.
Small debts exceeding two shillings and under forty shillings, are taken
cognizance of by a Court of Requests, established in 1783. The court
meets every other Wednesday in the Town Hall, the commissioners of which
must be resident within the town, and possessed of freehold property of
thirty pounds per annum value, or a clear personal estate of £600 value.
MEMBERS OF PARLIAMENT.
This town is a borough by prescription, and has sent two members to
parliament from the earliest assembling of that body. Previous to the
general reform act the right of election was in the burgesses inhabiting
within the ancient borough, paying scot and lot, and not receiving alms
or charity. The elective franchise is now extended to £10 householders
resident within the boundaries settled by act of parliament, July 15,
1832.
TRADING COMPANIES.
From a remote period several incorporated trading companies existed here,
{107} who exacted fines from what were termed “foreigners;” that is,
individuals who had not served an apprenticeship to a freeman, or who
were not the eldest sons of freemen, if they commenced business in the
“craft or calling” of any of these guilds; the chief of which were the
Drapers and Mercers: the former possessed a considerable property, and
were incorporated by Edward the Fourth, as were the latter in 1480 by the
same king. The Barber Chirurgeons were chartered by Edward the First in
1304, and incorporated by James II. in 1686, with the Wax and Tallow
Chandlers. The charter of the com-brethren of Painters, Booksellers, &c.
is dated May 8th, 19th of Edward IV. The Builders, &c. 19th Q.
Elizabeth, 1577. The composition of the Tailors, 1627, and recites a
more ancient grant. The Smiths, Armourers, &c. have a composition, 19th
James I. 1621. That of the Shoemakers is the most recent, being dated
1739. The Butchers have lost their charter, money, and records; and
several other “crafts” have only left a name behind.
These fraternities comprehend in their incorporation many more trades
than have been specified. Their utility in the infancy of commerce, as
so many brotherhoods for the protection of different trading interests,
is evident; but having survived the original purpose of institution,
their advantage had been long questioned, and the powers which they
possessed became defunct under the recent Municipal Bill. It is not,
however, too much to suppose but they might, as SOCIAL BODIES, still
effect many good purposes, not the least of which would be the
aggregation of brotherly feeling and good fellowship.
SHREWSBURY SHOW.
This annual pageant is perhaps, with the exception of Coventry, the only
one of the kind in the kingdom. It originated in the celebration of the
splendid festival of Corpus Christi in the church of Rome, which was
observed with much pomp and solemnity by the masters and wardens of the
different trading companies, the members of the corporation, the
parochial clergy, and the religious fraternities of the town.
The procession, so far back as the 27th of Henry VI. appears to have been
“tyme owt of mynde,” and which several of the guilds were obliged to
support. This is apparent from their “compositions,” or bye-laws,
containing regulations to that effect. That of the Weavers (anno 1444)
provides, that certain fines shall be applied to the “sustentacon and
encreece of the lyght of the seyd crafte of Wev’s, at the feast of Corpus
Xp’i daye.” The composition of the Mercers, Ironmongers, and Goldsmiths
directs that they shall provide “300 mede of wax yearly, to be burnt in
the p’cession of the feast of Corpus Xp’i.”
After the Reformation, the religious part of the ceremony was set aside,
and as a substitute the second Monday after Trinity Sunday adopted as a
day of recreation and feasting on Kingsland, where each company had a
small enclosure, within which is a building called an “arbour,”
surrounded by trees, and where refreshment was accustomed to be liberally
provided by the respective trades. Only seven of the arbours now remain,
each of which had formerly the arms of the company carved or painted over
the entrance.
The anniversary has often been anticipated by Salopians with feelings of
delight,—as affording an annual treat of hospitality and good cheer. The
town on the occasion has presented an appearance of lively interest,
conducive also to its trade; the bells of the different churches sent
forth their melodious and enlivening peals, while the incorporated
companies were passing to their places of muster; at noon they assembled
together at the Castle, from whence they proceeded through the streets to
Kingsland, accompanied by their respective flags, banners, and music of
all kinds, most of the companies having some character dressed in
personification of a king, or emblematical of their respective crafts,
and followed by a goodly array of com-brethren walking (as it were) hand
in hand together. The mayor and his friends followed afterwards on
horseback, and were wont to be entertained by the trading companies with
a dejeune in each arbour.
Such was “Shrewsbury Show.” An attempt was made in 1823 to revive the
ancient pageantry; but during the last few years there has been a sad
falling off in the display, and it is to be feared that the manifold
changes of the present times, and the refined dispositions (probably) of
some modern minds, are causes that will soon hasten to a discontinuance
what remains of this ancient custom and lively picture of old English
manners. {110}
The following extract from a scarce poem published in the year 1770,
entitled “Shrewsbury Quarry,” is probably the only authentic account
which will afford some idea of the “Show” at that period:—
What friendly forms in social pomp draw near,
With thankful smiles to bless the bounteous year!
In glad procession, brotherhood, and bloom,
(Like _Flora’s_ festals near thy walls, oh Rome,)
The bands distinguished, yet harmonious move,
Their ensigns concord, and their leaders love;
To KINGSLAND’S Arbours once a year they go,
In ordered elegance serene and slow;
The Bodies Corporate in classes bright—
In different classes, but in one delight;
There blend with mutual hands the friendly bowls,
There blend their wishes and there blend their souls;
The yearly _Archon_ {111} over all presides,
Their state he governs, and their joy he guides,
There mixing jovial with each jovial band,
To each he gives his heart—to each his hand;
With each he quaffs the invigorating cheer,
To friendship sacred, and the hallow’d year;
There union, brotherhood, and mirth combine,
In every face these vital virtues shine.
The sun would gladly in his course delay,
And stretch beyond its lengthened bound the day,
To gaze with rapture, as each bosom glows,
On these rich blessings which his beam bestows;
His prone career, his cadence they behold,
His western stage in crimson clad, and gold,
They see his orb reluctant now go down,
Then march in happy order back to town;
There polish’d pleasures teem with new delight,
And balls and banquets crown the genial night.
THE COUNTY HALL.
[Picture: The County Hall]
Architectural excellence has been said to consist in the judicious and
skilful adaptation of an edifice to its specific destination, and in the
appropriate and tasteful display of its interior and exterior ornaments,
and that public buildings should be distinguished by decisive and
apposite characteristic features of their purpose. How far this has been
exemplified in the Salop County Hall, the foregoing illustrative vignette
will in a great measure decide. The design is by Sir Robert Smirke, and
the style Italian; the main feature of the elevation being a bold cornice
resting on sculptured modillons.
The principal front is divided into three divisions by projecting string
courses, and is 112½ feet in length; the portion facing High-street, 58
feet; height to the top of parapet 54 feet.
On examining the interior of the structure, it will be evident that the
architect has made the most of a very limited space of ground: the
different apartments are convenient, lofty, and well adapted to the
various purposes for which they are intended. The offices in particular,
although plain, are fitted up in a most substantial manner.
The entrance hall is 22 feet 8 inches by 21½ feet, having on the right a
lobby leading to the crown court, and a room for the use of witnesses
waiting for examination in that court. On the left is a similar entrance
to the nisi prius court, and the mayor’s room (appropriated to counsel
during the assizes). Opposite the entrance door is the grand staircase,
spacious and of easy ascent; on the first landing are three doorways, the
centre one leading to the judges’ retiring room (which communicates with
the courts), and those on either hand to the magisterial bench in the
respective courts, which are of equal dimensions, 42 feet by 36 feet.
{114}
The accommodation for the gentlemen of the bar was intended to have been
similar to that provided (under the direction of the same architect) in
the Court of King’s Bench and several other places; but objections being
made by the counsel on this circuit, and a petition sent to the
magistrates, this arrangement was altered, and the space immediately
before the judge is occupied by a large table, with sufficient seats for
twenty counsellors, having a row of seats behind for attornies.
The bench is elevated 3½ feet above the floor, on each side of which is
accommodation for the magistrates.
The ceiling of both courts is panelled and ornamented, and the walls are
lined with wood as high as the small side galleries, which are intended
for the use of the grand and special jurors.
In each court is a gallery for the public, the two front benches of which
are partitioned off for jurymen in waiting. To these galleries are
separate entrances from the principal front, in order to prevent the
annoyance of a crowd in the vestibule of the hall, through which
admittance will be afforded for those persons who have business in the
courts.
Under the public galleries are lock-up rooms for the jury.
The nisi prius court is lighted by a lantern, which occupies a
considerable space in the ceiling; and beneath the public gallery of this
court is the waiting-room for witnesses. The first story is approached
by a broad flight of stairs: on the left is the grand jury room, 30 feet
by 18 feet, lofty and finished in a tasteful manner, having a
communication with the gallery in the crown court for the presentment of
bills. Attached to this apartment is a large room for witnesses
attending the grand jury; the floor is of stone, and forms the ceiling of
the entrance hall. To the right is the office of the clerk of
indictments.
From this division of the building the staircase leads to the entrance of
the GREAT ROOM, adapted for a third court or other public purposes
requiring space. It is decorated with an enriched cornice and panelled
ceiling; the dimensions are 45½ feet by 32½ feet, and 19 feet high,
having a recess at one end; it is lighted by windows at the side and
back, and is well ventilated by means of tubes which pass from the
ceiling through the roof.
By another ascent of steps the upper floor is gained. To the left are
offices for the clerk of the peace, with a fire-proof room as a
depositary for records. Similar rooms to the right are appropriated for
the town clerk.
In the rear of the building is a house for the hall-keeper, resting over
an entrance intended as a passage for the cart conveying prisoners from
the gaol, where they are set down in an area having stairs leading to
spacious and airy cells; these, with cellars for other purposes, occupy a
considerable portion of the base of the building, which stands upon a
concrete foundation, 10 feet thick, rendered necessary (from the
insufficient state of the ground) to support the weight of a massive
structure. In excavating for this purpose, many curiosities were found;
and although the required depth was 19 feet below the level of the
street, the natural strata was not discovered, the whole bed being a
complete bog of peaty soil of unequal depth,—a sufficient cause for all
the fissures visible for several years past in the external and internal
walls of the former fabric, which was only completed in 1785, at a cost
of £11,000.
In 1832, Thomas Telford, Esq. was requested to examine the nature of the
foundations, when it appeared that the oak sapling piles, or rather
stakes, on which the building rested were totally decayed, and become as
soft as the earth by which they were surrounded. To restore the walls to
a sound state was deemed a difficult and expensive undertaking, even if
practicable. A new building was therefore determined upon, Sir Robert
Smirke having guaranteed a sufficient foundation on the old site, by
taking out the whole of the soil, and replacing it by an artificial body
of concrete. His plan was adopted by the county magistrates, Jan. 28th,
1834, and in the month of April workmen commenced taking down the old
edifice, {116} and the new building progressed towards completion so as
to be ready by March, 1837.
The foundations appear to have succeeded beyond the expectations of all
concerned, and the building does great credit to the contractors, Messrs.
Birch and Sons. The estimated cost is about £12,000, raised by a county
rate.
THE GUILD HALL AND EXCHEQUER
of the town is incorporated with the county hall, by an arrangement with
the county previous to the erection of the late edifice.
The following portraits, presented to the late corporation, will decorate
the walls of the new building:—King Charles I. Charles II. William III.
George I. George II. George III. Queen Charlotte, Admiral Benbow (a
native of Shrewsbury), the Right Hon. Lord Hill (by Sir William Beechy),
and Admiral Owen (by R. Evans, Esq. a townsman). The two latter
portraits possess life and spirit in their execution, and are justly
esteemed most faithful resemblances of these illustrious heroes and
fellow-citizens.
THE MARKET HOUSE
is a spacious building, unequalled in point of ornamental decoration by
any similar structure in the kingdom. It not only gives a most prominent
feature to the area in front of the county hall, but is a general and
interesting object of attraction to strangers.
[Picture: Market House]
The principal front is to the west, over the portal of which are the arms
of Queen Elizabeth in high relief, and the date 1596. On each side of
this portal is an open arcade, consisting of three round arches, which
form the main building; above these is a series of square mullioned
windows, surmounted by a rich fanciful parapet consisting of curved
embrasures, which rise at certain distances into a kind of pinnacle.
Above the northern arch is the following inscription, having on one side
the arms of France and England quarterly, and on the other those of the
town:—
The xvth day of June was this building begun,
William Jones and Thomas Charlton, Gent. then
Bailiffs, and was erected and covered in their time.
1595.
Immediately over this is a tabernacled niche, containing a fine statue of
RICHARD DUKE OF YORK, in complete armour; one hand is supported on his
breast, and the other pointing below to a device of three roses carved on
a stalk. A tablet corresponding with the town arms, finely sculptured in
relief, on the left hand of the figure, records its removal from the
tower on the Welsh bridge, in 1791. In the same situation on the
corresponding end of the hall is the figure of an angel in a canopied
niche, bearing a shield of the arms of France and England quarterly.
This originally stood within the chamber of the Gate Tower at the Castle
Gates, from whence it was preserved when the remaining portion of that
ancient barrier gave way to modern houses in 1825.
The basement of the Market House is 105 feet long by 24 feet wide, and is
used on Saturdays as the corn-market; at other times it forms an useful
promenade, especially in wet weather.
The inscription on the north end has often excited surprise, how so large
and ornamental a building could have been completed within a period of
less than four months. The nature of the case would seem, that the
stone-work and timber-framing had perhaps previously been wrought, so
that no time might be lost, and the utmost endeavours used, in the
re-edification of a building which was almost indispensible at that
period,—when corn was for the most part brought to market in the _bulk_,
and not sold by _sample_ as in the present day. This conjecture is
somewhat confirmed by the following extract from a manuscript chronicle
in the possession of the writer:—
“1595. In the month of January this year the old building in the
Corn Market Place was agreed to be taken down, and the timber-work
thereof was sold, and another with all speed was to be erected with
stone and timber in the same place, and a sumptuous hall aloft, with
a spacious market house below for corn was begun, the foundation and
fencing whereof was a quarter of a year before it was finished, and
the stone work was begun upon the 15th day of June following, and was
finished and almost covered in before the bailiffs of the said year
went out of their office the Michaelmas following.”
THE BRIDGES.
Two handsome stone bridges cross the river Severn nearly in a parallel
direction. These were preceded by very ancient structures, defended by
embattled towers, and were excellent specimens of the fortified bridges
necessary in former times for the protection of the town. Being
extremely narrow and dilapidated, they were taken down in the last
century; a brief notice, therefore, of their ancient state will be
sufficient.
THE OLD WELSH BRIDGE
was considered as the chief architectural ornament of the town,
consisting of seven arches, and situated a few yards higher up the stream
than the present structure. Its gates and towers at each end were of the
finest kind of castellated building, being richly decorated with shields
and sculpture; and their demolition is much to be regretted.
Above one of the gates stood the armed statue of a knight, which was
removed in 1791, and placed in a niche on the front of the Market House.
This effigy was an important object of attraction to the Welshmen in
passing through the gate, from a tradition retained by them even to
modern times, that it represented Llewelyn Prince of Wales, or David, the
last of the British Princes, whom Roger Coke facetiously calls “King
Taffy,” but which recent antiquaries have, from its attendant
embellishments, more properly assigned to Richard Duke of York, father of
Edward IV.
THE OLD EAST OR STONE BRIDGE
consisted rather of two bridges (being divided by an island of 118 feet
broad), extending 864 feet in length, and comprising seventeen arches.
The thoroughfare over it in the widest part was only twelve feet, being
impeded by a range of thirty-three houses disposed on each side, after
the manner of London Bridge in former times.
The further bridge from the town had eleven arches, and was properly
denominated: “THE ABBEY BRIDGE” for it extended to the precinct of the
monastery, and passed over none of the water of the Severn except in
times of flood, receiving only a small portion of a rivulet called Meole
Brook, the channel of which is still visible in the meadows opposite the
Council House.
The narrow state of this bridge having been long matter of complaint and
inconvenience, a subscription was commenced in 1765 to widen it, towards
which Sir John Astley, Bart. gave £1000.
The expediency of the undertaking was so apparent, from the liberal
subscriptions which came in from all parts of the county, that
encouragement was given to erect an entire new bridge, from a design
furnished by Mr. John Gwynn, architect, of London, and a native of
Shrewsbury. The first stone of the bridge was laid June 29th, 1769, by
the munificent promoter of the undertaking, Sir John Astley, Bart; and
the work was so far completed as to afford a passage (March 14th, 1774)
for the High Sheriff, John Owen, Esq. of Woodhouse, and a numerous body
of gentlemen on horseback who accompanied him to meet the judges of
assize, whom they escorted into town over the new bridge, since styled
THE ENGLISH BRIDGE,
which is a most substantial structure, 410 ft. in length, and composed of
seven arches, crowned by a bold balustrade; the primary object in its
construction was to contrive as much space as possible for the water
during floods, to accomplish which, the central arch (60 feet in
diameter) was raised double the height of the end arches, an elevation
perhaps not accordant with or agreeable to later opinions of ease and
convenience. With the exception of this defect, its elegance and beauty
of architecture is probably surpassed by few bridges in the kingdom, and
is in every respect an ornament to the town, and an equally noble
monument of the public spirit and generosity of the gentry of the county,
who so laudably exerted themselves to further its erection.
The ornamental parts, though sparingly are yet tastefully disposed. The
keystone of the central arch on the north side is adorned with a fine
head of SABRINA, “goddess of the river,” while that on the opposite side
bears a spirited head of NEPTUNE, the “father of fountains.” On the
piers of this arch rest finely carved dolphins. The keystones of the
other arches are worked into a shell. The parapet of the bridge rises
into a pediment, in the centre of which (on each side facing the river)
is the town arms, and the date of the completion of the bridge,
MDCCLXXIV.
The total cost, including the purchase of the houses which stood on and
near the bridge, acts of parliament, &c. was £15,710. 3s. 3d.
LORD HILL’S COLUMN.
[Picture: Lord Hill’s Column]
This noble column, erected in honour of the VALOUR and VIRTUES of an
individual whose well-earned laurels have gained him a firm affection in
the hearts of his countrymen, and truly rendered him SALOPIA’S PRIDE and
ENGLAND’S GLORY, stands on a rising ground at the entrance of the town
from the London road, and forms an interesting object to the surrounding
country. It is said to be the largest Grecian Doric column in the world.
The first stone was laid by the Salopian Lodge of Free and Accepted
Masons, on the 27th December, 1814.
The pedestal is square, rising upon two steps, with a large pier at each
angle, on which are placed lions couchant, worked out of Grinshill stone
by Mr. Carline, of this town.
The diameter at the base is 15 feet, and the other dimensions are as
follow:—
ft. in.
Height of the pedestal 13 6
Shaft and capital 91 6
Pedestal for the figure 11 6
Statue of his lordship 17 0
Total height 133 6
The colossal statue of his Lordship on the summit is executed in
artificial stone by Messrs. Coade and Sealy, of London, modelled by
Panzetta. The original design for the column was by Mr. Haycock, of
Shrewsbury.
The contractors were Messrs. Simpson and Lawrence; on the death of the
former, the work devolved upon Mr. Straphen, who completed it, and
erected the elegant staircase within the building at his own expense.
The last stone was laid in 1816, on the anniversary of the memorable
battle of Waterloo.
On the pedestal are the following inscriptions:
ON THE SOUTH SIDE.
Civi • svo • Rolando
Domino • Baroni • Hill • ab • Almarez • et • Hawkstone
Popvlares • eivs • ex • agro • atqve • municipio • Salopiensi
Colvmnam • hancce • cvm • statva • P • C.
A • S • MDCCCXVI.
Is • in • re • militari • qvemadmodvm • se • gesserit
Testes • sint • Lvsitania • Hispania • Galliae
Narbonensis • ac • Belgica
Artvrivs • Dvx • a • Wellington
Sociorvm • et • qvidem • hostivm • exercitvs.
ON THE NORTH SIDE.
To Lieutenant General Rowland Lord Hill,
Baron Hill of Almarez and Hawkstone, G. C. B.
Not more distinguished for his skill and courage in the field,
During the arduous campaigns in Spain and Portugal,
The South of France, and the memorable Plains of Waterloo,
Than for his benevolent and paternal care,
In providing for the comforts and supplying the necessities
Of his victorious countrymen,
And for that humanity and generosity
Which their vanquished foes experienced and acknowledged:
The inhabitants of the Town and County of Salop
Have erected this Column and Statue,
As a memorial of their respect and gratitude to an illustrious
contemporary,
And an incitement to emulation in the heroes and
patriots of future ages.
A. D. MDCCCXVI.
ON THE EAST SIDE.
Roleia Arroyo del Molinos Hillette
Vimiera Almarez Orthes
Corunna Vittoria Aire
Douro Pyrenees Tarbes
Talavera Nive Toulouse
Busaco Nivelle Waterloo.
This splendid memorial is constructed of fine Grinshill stone; the total
expence, including the cottage and other incidentals, amounted to £5973.
13s. 2d. which was raised by a subscription throughout the county.
Within the shaft is a staircase of 172 steps, forming a well in the
centre, each step having an iron baluster with a gilt letter inserted on
a small panel, which gives the following inscription:—
“This staircase was the gift of John Straphen, the builder, as his
donation towards erecting this Column. The first stone of the
foundation was laid December 27th, 1814, and completed June 18th,
1816, the anniversary of the glorious Battle of Waterloo.”
The column may be ascended by a gratuity to the keeper, who resides in a
neat Doric cottage adjoining.
From the railing at the top is a delightful panoramic view of the fertile
plain of Shropshire, to which the bold appearance of Shrewsbury, and its
once formidable Castle mantled with leafy verdure, forms a prominent
contrast.
The surrounding distances are replete with interest, being composed of
fine undulating hills and mountains. Proceeding northward, the eye
ranges over the Nesscliff and Selattyn hills, the mountainous tract of
the Berwyn, the luxuriantly crowned summit of Pimhill, the wild and
romantic rock of Grinshill, and the gentler eminences of Hawkstone, whose
tasteful plantations and noble woods are seen at a distance of twelve
miles, among which rises the “Obelisk,” erected to the memory of Sir
Rowland Hill, the first Protestant Lord Mayor of London.
In the foreground north-east is the plain, renowned in history, and
immortalized by Shakspeare in dramatic poetry, as the scene of the great
and important Battle of Shrewsbury, in 1403, in commemoration of which
Henry IV. piously founded a church, called to this day “Battlefield,” the
well-proportioned tower of which is easily distinguished.
The turrets of the modern castellated mansion of Sundorne are
particularly striking, and remind us of the beautiful lines of Mrs.
Hemans—
The stately Homes of England,
How beautiful they stand!
Amidst their tall ancestral trees,
O’er all the pleasant land.
Further eastward are the venerable and truly picturesque ruins of
Haghmond Monastery, founded in the year 1100, for canons of the order of
St. Augustine. Near the remains of this once more noble pile is the
wooded ascent of Haghmond Hill, and its conspicuously placed Shooting
Tower, beneath which is the retired village of Uffington and its
primitive church.
Direct east stands exalted in noble majesty the isolated WREKIN, the
_natural Heart of Shropshire_, in front of which appears the exuberant
foliage surrounding Longner Hall. Directing the eye southwards, is
Charlton Hill, bounded by the towering summit of the Brown Clee (1820
feet in height), and the Lawley, Acton Burnell Park, Frodesley, and other
Shropshire hills, among which is the lofty Caerdoc, otherwise Caer
Caradoc, where Caractacus (the last of the original British princes) is
said to have displayed his patriotism and daring spirit against the
united efforts of the Roman forces.
Onward in the horizon, beyond a remote cultivated country, is the
Longmynd with its straight outline, and the Stiperstones, topped by
rocks, similar to the august relics of castellated grandeur; these are
connected by the Bromlow and Long Mountain; and the panorama terminates
with the lofty mountains of Breidden, Cefn y Cayster, and Moelygolfa,
which, with more distant eminences, form a fine back-ground to a portion
of the town, while the middle distance all around is unequalled for
richness and fertility.
Nor, whilst extolling the environs and distant scenes around, let us
forget the immediate vicinity of the Column: its verdant pastures,
sequestered lanes, stately trees, and rural scenery, are surpassed by
none so near a populous county town.
THE TOWN AND COUNTY GAOL
Is situated on a dry, beautiful, and salubrious eminence, a short
distance from the Castle.
The front of the prison displays rather a bold appearance, having two
rusticated stone lodges and a gateway in the centre; over the latter is a
bust of the philanthropic HOWARD, by Bacon.
The interior possesses every necessary convenience appropriate to its
purpose that sagacity and humanity can devise. It is spacious, airy, and
well supplied with water, by means of a pump worked by the prisoners.
The governor’s house faces the gateway, and forms the southern front of
the building. The chapel stands in the centre of the whole, and is
lighted by a lantern surmounted by a gilt cross. It is octagonal, and
contrived that while all the prisoners may see the clergyman, every class
is so separated as to be hid from each other.
The prison is further divided into eight principal courts, besides other
smaller ones; these are surrounded by cloisters with groined arches;
above these are the sleeping cells, the communication to which is by
railed galleries. A due regard to the gradations of vice is strictly
observed in the classification of the prisoners, most of whom are
occupied during the day in some little manufactory or useful employment,
by which habits of industry are acquired that may protect them from
temptations to plunder or misconduct when released from confinement.
Executions take place on the roof of the porter’s lodge.
The prison was begun in 1787, and completed (from a plan by Mr. Haycock)
in 1793, at an expense of about £30,000. The entire building is
surrounded by a strong brick wall, flanked with rusticated stone
buttresses.
THE BUTTER AND POULTRY MARKET,
on Pride-hill, was erected in 1819 by voluntary contributions amounting
to £2000. It is a building unworthy our town and the ample produce
brought to its weekly markets. In 1830 it was adjudged to be taken down
as being unsuitable and incommodious. A meeting was held to arrange for
a new building upon an improved plan, the money to be raised by shares of
£25 each, but circumstances prevented this desirable undertaking, which
is much to be regretted, as complaints have long been made of the
obstruction in the thoroughfare (which is often attended with delay and
danger) on market and fair days, by persons exposing their goods and
marketables for sale in the street.
THE CIRCUS BUTTER & CHEESE MARKET,
from its situation near the Welsh Bridge, possesses superior advantages
for the conveyance of goods and general trade. It was opened about the
year 1822 by Mr. H. Newton.
THE NEW BUTTER AND CHEESE MARKET
Is an elegant and commodious edifice situated in Howard-street,
Castle-foregate, and possesses every requisite convenience for the
disposal of butter, cheese, and other agricultural produce, and
merchandize.
[Picture: Howard-street Butter and Cheese Market]
The exterior consists of a centre and two wings, the centre forming the
portico and principal entrance, which is decorated with two Grecian
columns and entablature. The whole of the front is cemented, and
possesses an unity of parts and a boldness of proportion unusual in
buildings of this description.
The interior is divided into two stories, the lower or basement being
vaulted with groined arches springing from brick piers, which afford an
equality of height in almost every part. The entrance to the basement is
on the north side, and (owing to the fall in the street) is of sufficient
height to admit a waggon. The canal is on the south side, and nearly
level with the floor of the basement, to which there is a communication,
affording a ready transit for goods.
The upper or principal floor of the Market contains an area of 5400 feet;
the roof is supported by four rows of iron pillars; the centre part being
raised nine feet, has a range of windows on each side, by which a proper
ventilation is obtained as well as additional light.
Attached to the upper end of the building is a second entrance,
communicating with an office for the clerk of the market.
The first stone of the edifice was laid by Mr. W. H. Griffiths, May 28th,
1835, and was completed by that time in the next year, in a manner
creditable to the architects, Messrs. FALLOWS and HART, of Birmingham.
THE SALOP INFIRMARY.
Among the various channels through which the stream of christian
benevolence pursues its fertilizing course to the ocean of charity, those
Institutions which have for their express design the cultivation of the
mind and the alleviation of misfortunes which the casualties of life and
the infirmities of human nature render mankind alike heir to, afford
undoubtedly the safest application of real beneficence, being, in a
measure, free from that imposition with which an indiscriminate charity
has unfortunately so often to contend.
[Picture: The Infirmary]
From the most remote period the virtuous breast has cultivated the
sublime desire of mitigating, as far as possible, the pain and
wretchedness consequent upon disease and suffering,—hence we find that
the munificence which characterised our forefathers centuries ago was not
altogether confined to the erection of numerous places for Divine
Worship, and for which our town was early distinguished, but that the
pleasing pain of sympathy prompted them also to build and endow
“Hospitals” for the reception of the sick and diseased, and “Almshouses”
for the aged and infirm. The first record we possess of the existence of
such charitable institutions in Shrewsbury is as early as the time of
Henry the Second, beside an “Infirmary” founded by Earl Roger de
Montgomery, within the precinct of the “Abbey,” as an asylum for diseased
and superannuated monks, a fragment of which erection yet remains.
The rapacity, however, which disgraced the dissolution of Monasteries and
whatever sustained the character of a “Religious House,” has, with a
solitary exception, rendered these ancient Hospitals defunct;—nor was it
until the commencement of the last century that the attention of the
public was particularly directed to the foundation of Hospitals or
Infirmaries, and which, from the number of hospitals erected in the
course of that period, will, no doubt, be a memorable age in the annals
of Medical Charities;—whilst it may be no mean compliment to our town and
county to mention that its inhabitants early caught the rising spark of
this generous flame, and had the distinguished honour of being the fifth
in the kingdom to form the way in establishing a Provincial Asylum, on
the basis of public benevolence,—THE SALOP INFIRMARY having commenced its
salutary operations April 25th, 1747.
The building which preceded the present stately erection having been
originally designed for a private residence, and although repeatedly
enlarged and improved, being found to be insufficient for the
accommodation of the additional number of patients consequent upon an
increasing population, as well as inconvenient in many respects for the
purpose it was designed to fulfil, it was resolved, at a meeting held
Nov. 16, 1826, that a new Infirmary should be built on the site of the
old one, at the estimated cost of about £16,000. As there was, however,
much disinclination on the part of the subscribers present to take so
large a sum from the funds of the institution, a considerable portion of
which, having been bequeathed for its _support_, was therefore deemed
sacred, a subscription was resolved upon and commenced immediately, when
no less than £4,666 was subscribed by the noblemen and gentlemen then
present,—a truly noble example of SALOPIAN GENEROSITY.
In the month of April, 1827, the patients were removed to a temporary
infirmary, arranged in the Shrewsbury House of Industry; upon which
workmen immediately commenced taking down the old building, and with such
speed that on the 19th of July, the anniversary of our late revered
monarch’s coronation, the ceremony of laying the first stone of the new
structure was performed by the Right Hon. Lord Hill, assisted by the late
Venerable Archdeacon Owen, some of the committee, with the contractors
and surveyor.
The building thus auspiciously begun, proceeded rapidly to a completion
so as to be opened on September 16, 1830. It is of free-stone, and of a
plain Grecian character in design, 170 feet long by 80 feet high, having
a Doric portico in the centre, the ends projecting with pilasters at each
angle. At the top of the building, on a tablet, is the following
inscription:—
SALOP INFIRMARY,
Established 1745,
Supported by Voluntary Subscriptions and Benefactions.
REBUILT 1830.
The interior comprises four stories; in the basement story the offices,
to the number of twenty-two, are well arranged, having a convenient court
for coal, &c. and water supplied to the several apartments. The
principal floor is appropriated to the board room, dispensary, waiting
room for the patients, and admitting rooms for the faculty, with private
apartments for the house-surgeon and matron, and two wards for surgical
cases.
The first floor is for male patients, and consists of seven wards, with a
day-room, scullery, and bath rooms: the upper floor, for female patients,
has the same accommodation, with the addition of a large and lofty
operation room, enclosed by two pair of folding doors, having wards on
each side; in the attics are four other wards, with nurses’ rooms, &c.
The ascent to these apartments is by staircases situated at each end of
the building, connected by spacious galleries, which afford the means of
free ventilation.
In addition to the conveniences with which this elegant structure is
replete, _the patent hot-water apparatus_, erected for the purpose of
warming the Infirmary, must not be overlooked. The apparatus consists of
a boiler, placed in the basement floor of the building, from which, by
means of a pipe rising from its top, the water heated therein is conveyed
to the highest level required, from whence it descends (in its passage to
the boiler) to what are called the water stoves, situated in the several
galleries. By this mode of heating the several apartments, opportunity
is afforded not only of having a supply of hot water to each scullery,
bath, and floor, but nightly attendance to the fire is rendered
altogether unnecessary.
Whilst the interior accommodations of the Infirmary are highly conducive
to the health and comfort of the inmates, the external arrangements are
so constructed that such of the patients as are able may possess every
benefit resulting from exercise and pure air, a spacious terrace having
been constructed, and extending beyond the length of the eastern front,
from which a most expansive and interesting view presents itself. In
short, the whole of the arrangements of the new Salop Infirmary are
admirably adapted for the purpose they are designed to fulfil, and whilst
the workmanship, the materials, and general construction are of the best
description, and reflect the highest credit on the several contractors,
the building it is to be desired will, from its site and general
formation, remain a lasting monument not only of Salopian liberality, but
of general usefulness.
The building was designed by Messrs. Haycock, of this town, and the total
expence of its erection was £18,735. 18s. 10d. of which sum £13,044. 1s.
3d. was raised by public subscriptions and collections, the balance being
made up by the sale of a part of the capital stock of the institution.
The Infirmary is liberally supported by subscriptions and benefactions.
From its establishment to Midsummer, 1835, the sum of £164,220. 11s. 3d.
has been received for its support; 44,058 in-patients admitted, and
72,328 outpatients recommended as fit objects for its benefits.
The average annual expence is about £2230, and the weekly number of
patients in the house 82; and 2429 outpatients were relieved in 1835.
A treasurer is annually chosen, and the affairs of the house are managed
by eight directors, assisted by a secretary. The directors are chosen
from the trustees, who are subscribers of two guineas and upwards per
annum, of whom four retire from their office half-yearly.
The domestic arrangements are under the care of a matron; and a surgeon
with a salary is resident in the house, so that medical aid may be always
at hand.
The medical officers of the establishment gratuitously devote their time
and apply their skill in promoting the benevolent design of the
institution.
The clergy of the town officiate by turns weekly as chaplains to the
house. And two weekly visitors from the resident subscribers go round
the wards, by which the patients have an opportunity of stating any
dissatisfaction that may exist, and having it reported to the board of
directors, who assemble every Saturday morning for the dispatch of the
ordinary business of the charity and the admission and discharge of
patients.
Every patient must be recommended by a subscriber, except in the case of
casualties.
The anniversary meeting is held in the Hunt week; when a numerous
assemblage of noblemen and gentlemen accompany the treasurer from the
Infirmary to St. Chad’s church, where a sermon is preached and a
collection made in aid of its funds, which always produces a sum truly
honourable to the county.
Several tables of legacies and benefactions for the support of the
Infirmary are fixed on the walls of the board room; and the cornice is
adorned with a series of armorial bearings of all the noblemen and
gentlemen who have filled the office of treasurer to the institution.
An auxiliary fund is attached to the hospital, for the purpose of
assisting convalescent in-patients in returning to their homes.
EYE AND EAR DISPENSARY.
It would be superfluous to offer any observations on the importance of
the two senses of Vision and Hearing, or on the prevalence of the various
disorders to which the organs of those senses are liable; and whilst a
general resource has been provided for the poor in the noble institution
just noticed, for such diseases and accidents as they might be afflicted
with, it has been thought expedient to form separate institutions for the
relief of such disorders or defects in the human frame as are found more
prevalent; since by directing medical and surgical skill to one
particular object, efficient results may be the more easily obtained. To
further this design, the Shropshire Eye and Ear Dispensary was
established in 1818. During seventeen years of its progress 3583
patients have been admitted, and, as among these several have been
restored to the blessing of sight, the institution is deserving of public
support.
The dispensary is held in Castle-street, under the care of a surgeon.
Annual subscribers of one guinea have, according to the original
resolution, the right of recommending two patients within the year; but
this is not in all cases strictly adhered to.
ST. GILES’S HOSPITAL,
it is considered, was originally established for the reception of persons
afflicted with leprosy—a disease much more common among the ancients and
in warmer climates than in Europe, into which it is said to have been
introduced by the Crusaders in the time of Henry the First. King Henry
the Second, if not the founder of this hospital, granted to it 30s.
yearly (equal to £80 of modern currency) of the rent which he received
from the sheriff of Shropshire for the county, towards the support of the
infirm or diseased occupants, as well as a small toll upon all corn and
flour exposed to sale in Shrewsbury, either on market days or otherwise.
The original grant of money is still paid by the sheriff to the Earl of
Tankerville, who, as “Master of the Hospital,” and holding certain lands
for its maintenance, nominates four hospitallers, who have each a
comfortable house and garden, adjoining St. Giles’s church-yard, with one
shilling and sixpence weekly, a small allowance for coal, and clothing
annually.
ST JOHN’S HOSPITAL,
although an asylum “for honest poverty and old age,” did not escape the
rapacity which characterised the dissolution of religious houses. It
stood in the suburb of Frankwell, near a place since called The Stew.
Speed notices its site in his map (1610); but not a fragment of the
building now remains.
THE DRAPERS’ ALMSHOUSES.
[Picture: Drapers’ Almshouses]
The generally received opinion has been that these almshouses were
founded, in 1461, by Degory Watur, Draper, from the circumstance that he
lived himself in the centre house, or “almshouse hall,” among the poor
people, and whose practice (as a Manuscript Chronicle records) was to
attend them “dailye to our Lady’s Chirch, and to kneel with them in a
long pew in the quire made for them and himself.”
The ancient records, however, of the Drapers’ Company show that a
building and endowment of almshouses by that company for poor people
existed long previous to the foundation attributed to Degory Watur, who
seems to have been only the founder in so far as their re-erection took
place, under his management, during his wardenship or stewardship of the
company, of which he was a member.
The old almshouses extended along the whole of the west side of St.
Mary’s church-yard: and, being much dilapidated and very incommodious
dwellings, they were taken down in 1825. The present building, completed
in the above year, from a design by Mr. J. Carline, now consists of
eighteen comfortable habitations, of two chambers each; the front is in
the old English style of architecture, having in the centre a gateway
within an embattled tower; in the centre of the latter are the armorial
bearings of the Drapers’ Company, with the motto “Unto God only be honour
and glory.”
This re-edification, including the purchase of the land, cost the
Drapers’ Company upwards of £3000, from whose funds each of the poor
people receive annually about six pounds.
ST. CHAD’S ALMSHOUSES
adjoin the cemetery of Old St. Chad’s, and were erected in 1409 by
Bennett Tipton, a public brewer, who lived in the College, and died in
1424. The allowance to the eleven poor occupants, “decayed old men and
women,” arises chiefly from a benefaction of £180 by David Ireland,
alderman of the town, and Catharine his wife; which is now commuted to a
rent charge of £8 on the Lythwood estate, the proprietor of which
nominates the alms-folk. Previous to the Reformation the poor people
received one penny a-week from the Mercers’ Company, since which time the
whole annual payment of the Company has been only two shillings and two
pence.
HOUSE OF INDUSTRY.
This spacious and well-built structure stands on an eminence rising from
the Severn, which forms a beautiful object beneath. The site is highly
salubrious, and the prospect delightfully variegated by many natural
beauties. The majestic Wrekin, with an extensive tract of country, is
seen to the right; while the front presents a very general view of the
town, skirted by genteel residences partly obscured by the foliage of The
Quarry trees, which, with the towers of the Castle, the lofty steeples of
the churches and their glittering vanes, unite in producing a scene
diversified and impressive, especially when the evening sun illumines the
landscape, and gives to it that variety of light and shadow which poets
have associated as only belonging to the scenes of enchantment and fairy
land.
A fine terrace extends the whole length of the building, which was
erected (in 1760) for the reception of orphans from the Foundling
Hospital in London, at an expence of £12,000; but the funds of that
institution not proving adequate to the plan of sending children to
provincial hospitals, it was discontinued in 1774. It afterwards served
as a place of confinement for Dutch prisoners taken in the American war;
and in 1784 it was purchased under an act of parliament for incorporating
the five parishes of the town and that of Meole Brace in the liberties,
so far as concerned the maintenance of the poor, as a general House of
Industry for their admission and employment, under the management of a
board of directors.
Various circumstances, however, have concurred to render the
establishment a complete failure, both as regards the principles on which
it was founded, the economy to be effected, and the advantages eventually
to result in favour of the united parishes, the select vestries of which
now send but a small proportion of their poor, and those are generally
infirm, who are maintained by a contractor, at a certain rate per head
per week; but “averages” are still paid by the several parishes, to keep
the extensive buildings in repair, for a salary to the chaplain, and
other purposes of the institution, which continues under the ostensible
government of directors.
The dining hall is 115 feet in length, parallel with which is a chapel of
the same size, in which service is performed once every Sunday.
HUMANE SOCIETY.
A Humane Society existed in this town in the year 1786, but, having sunk
from notice, was resuscitated in 1824, for the purpose of preventing
those fatal accidents which have been of frequent occurrence during the
bathing season, and often in the winter time, when the river in a frozen
state affords the amusement of skaiting. The purpose of the society is
to render prompt assistance in the use of the most approved means for
restoring suspended animation, from whatever cause arising, and the
rewarding of persons whose humane and intrepid exertions have been
instrumental in saving life, or, although unsuccessful, such as to
entitle their endeavours to the thanks of society.
To accomplish these objects, watchmen, prepared with every requisite
apparatus, are stationed on the banks of the river, where accidents at
any time may be expected to occur, and receiving houses are established,
where every facility is afforded to employ remedies for the restoring of
life in those cases which hold out the slightest hope of a recovery.
It may be mentioned that many instances have occurred by which a just
estimate can be formed of the positive good resulting from the exertions
of this Society, in rescuing persons from drowning.
THE PRISON CHARITIES
were commenced about the year 1800, for the distribution of rewards to
promote the reformation and encourage the industry of criminals confined
within the prison walls; to relieve the wants of unfortunate debtors; and
to provide all those who are dismissed from prison with a small sum for
immediate maintenance, so as to prevent the great temptation of
committing crime for that purpose.
The annual subscription is limited to one guinea; and the institution has
met with a laudable support, principally among the gentry of the county.
THE PAROCHIAL CHARITIES
of this town have at different times been largely endowed by the legacies
of individuals who, in bidding the world adieu, were piously moved to
leave portions of their substance to be expended in “bread to the poor,”
clothing and apprenticing poor children, annual gifts of money and
garments to decayed housekeepers, and the general improvement of all, by
directing commemorative sermons to be preached on particular
anniversaries. In St. Chad’s parish two hundred threepenny loaves are,
on the average, distributed weekly throughout the year.
THE TOWN CHARITIES
were bequeathed for purposes in many respects similar to the foregoing,
and were under the management of the old Corporation; but by the
provisions of the Municipal Act the distribution of them is vested in
trustees appointed by the Lord Chancellor.
Several other charitable societies exist in the town, whose object is to
afford gifts of money, clothing, medical assistance, and religious
instruction, to the necessitous sick poor; as well as for the
distribution of the scriptures and the public formularies of the
established church, and for the propagation of christianity both at home
and abroad, the detail of which would exceed the prescribed limits of
this publication.
CHARITY SCHOOLS.
“TO LEARNING’S SECOND SEATS WE NOW PROCEED.”
BOWDLER’s, OR THE BLUE SCHOOL,
Is situated in Beeches Lane, and is an oblong brick building, having in
the centre a glazed cupola, surmounted by a flying dragon. It was
founded in 1724, according to the will of Mr. Thomas Bowdler, alderman
and draper, for the instruction, clothing, and apprenticing poor children
of the parish of St. Julian.
Eighteen boys and 12 girls receive their education here, and attend
service at St. Julian’s church on Sundays, to which church Mr. Bowdler
was a great benefactor.—The number of scholars, from the increased value
of the property belonging to the school, is about to be increased.
MILLINGTON’s SCHOOL & HOSPITAL.
This excellent institution and monument of private munificence stands on
an eminence in the suburb of Frankwell, which commands an extensive
prospect of the town, its churches, public buildings, and more distant
views.
The building consists of a handsome pedimented front, with a stone
portico, and two wings attached to the centre by a row of houses; the
summit is crowned by a bell turret.
The chapel occupies the centre of the building, and contains a portrait
of the founder. Adjoining are residences for the master and mistress of
the school, and twelve houses for the resident hospitallers.
The foundation was endowed by Mr. James Millington, a draper, of
Shrewsbury, and consists (according to his will) of a school-master and
mistress with liberal salaries, and a chaplain, whose duty it is to read
prayers every school day at nine o’clock in the morning. The scholars,
&c. attend St. George’s church on Sundays.
Twelve poor men or women, chosen from the single parishioners living in
Frankwell, or from the part of Saint Chad’s parish nearest to it, have
each a comfortable dwelling consisting of two apartments, and a good
garden, with two gowns, or coats, three tons of coal and ten guineas
yearly, and two loaves of bread weekly. Gowns and coats, with £4 per
annum and two loaves weekly, are given to ten poor single housekeepers
resident in Frankwell, the four senior of which occupy two chambers each
above the school rooms, and are removed according to seniority into the
hospital when a vacancy occurs.
The school rooms are in the rear of the building, in which twenty-five
boys and as many girls receive their education, with clothing twice
a-year. At the age of fourteen the boys are apprenticed, and £10 given
as a premium with each; previous to which they are well clothed, and on
producing a certificate of good behaviour during apprenticeship, £5 is
presented as a gratuity. The girls are allowed £3 for clothing on
leaving the school, and, on behaving well, at the expiration of three
years of their service receive £3 more.
A Sermon is annually preached in St. Chad’s church, on the 12th of
August, according to the will of the founder, to commemorate his
birth-day.
Two exhibitions of £40 a-year each are founded for students of St. Mary
Magdalene College, Cambridge, eligible to those who have been originally
scholars in the school and born in Frankwell, and educated at the Free
Schools.
The charity is governed by fourteen trustees; and the revenues, by proper
management, are considerable. Well may it be said, after reading this
noble bequest—
“Behold what blessing wealth to life can lend.”
ALLATT’S SCHOOL
Is situated in Murivance, near St. Chad’s church, and was erected and
endowed pursuant to the will of JOHN ALLATT, Gent. The building is an
elegant free-stone structure, designed by Mr. Haycock in 1800, and cost
£2000. It consists of two excellent houses for the master and mistress,
which are connected with the schools by an arcade.
Thirty boys and thirty girls are educated and clothed, and at a proper
age placed out as apprentices or servants.—Twenty-eight coats and 140
stuff gowns are annually given to poor men and women from the funds of
the same charity.
The management of the school and funds is under the direction of fourteen
trustees.
PUBLIC SUBSCRIPTION SCHOOL.
This school was begun by a subscription as early as the year 1708, for
the instruction and clothing of poor children, and is conducted on the
National system, in spacious school rooms near the east end of the
English bridge. A sermon is preached annually in aid of its funds at two
of the churches in the town. Nearly three hundred children receive daily
education here, and on Sundays they attend the worship of the established
church.
THE LANCASTERIAN SCHOOLS
were erected in 1812, opposite the County Gaol, for the plan of education
suggested by the late Mr. Joseph Lancaster. They are supported by
subscriptions and donations, with a small weekly contribution from the
scholars.
ST. MARY’S AND ST. MICHAEL’S SCHOOLS
are situated in the suburb of Castle Foregate, and were erected in 1832,
in the old English style of architecture, from a design by Mr. John
Carline. Two hundred and fifty boys and girls receive their daily
instruction, and are taken to St. Michael’s church twice on Sundays.
The school is supported by private benefactions; and the National system
of education is adopted.
ST. CHAD’S LADIES’ SCHOOL
is held in the remains of Old St. Chad’s church, and the mode of tuition
practised is that of the Madras system, which has been in operation in
this school since 1820.
The number of girls educated is 154, under the care of visitors, whose
aim, as expressed in the report of the school, is “to be instrumental in
bringing up poor children in the fear of God, and in instilling into them
such religious principles as may lead them to do their duty, for
conscience sake, in that state of life to which it shall please God to
call them.” The girls are clothed annually, and the total expence of the
school is rather more than £100 a year, nearly one-half of which is
contributed by the children in the shape of earnings and a penny fund,
the remainder by subscriptions and donations.
INFANT SCHOOLS
produce a wide field for useful exertion, by forming the disposition and
giving an early moral bias to the mind;—if, indeed, they do no more than
take young children from the debasing influence under which their
characters must otherwise be formed, and present an example of a better
kind, they are calculated to effect a good purpose.
Schools having this object in view are established in the suburbs of
FRANKWELL, CASTLE FOREGATE, and COLEHAM, and are supported by
subscriptions under the direction of intelligent ladies.
SUNDAY SCHOOLS.
There are several Sunday Schools connected with the established church
and the different congregations of dissenters, some of which have existed
nearly from the earliest formation of such institutions.
A WALK WITHIN THE WALLS.
“GO ROUND ABOUT HER, AND TELL THE TOWERS THEREOF. MARK WELL HER
BULWARKS, SET UP HER HOUSES, THAT YE MAY TELL THEM THAT COME AFTER.”
HAVING noticed the principal Public Structures and Charitable
Institutions of Shrewsbury, we turn next to those objects and ancient
remains which do not admit of a regular classification.
In adapting the present work, therefore, to assist the Stranger, it is
proposed to notice these and such other localities that may engage and
deserve attention, in the course of A WALK WITHIN THE WALLS of our town,
replete in subjects of antiquarian interest.
In the survey of these matters we shall occasionally lose sight of the
refinement of modern times, and accommodate our thoughts and feelings to
the days of yore, by adding such historical remarks as may serve the
purpose of general as well as local information.
Our perambulation will commence from the spacious area in front of the
County Hall, called the
MARKET SQUARE,
from the vegetable market being held there, and from whence may be seen
several good specimens of the half-timbered houses of our forefathers,
terminating with lofty gables.
Proceeding up HIGH STREET, anciently called “Bakers’ Row,” from the
number of that occupation which located there: on the left of the turning
towards Grope Lane is an old timbered house, now a grocer’s shop, but
formerly used as
THE MERCERS’ HALL.
Several of the Incorporated Companies originally possessed Halls for
holding their meetings and the celebration of their feasts: the former
have of late years been held at the Town Hall, and the latter at some of
the inns.
About the middle of the street, on the right, is the Unitarian Meeting
House (p. 95), where the poet Coleridge preached in 1798; {149} and a few
yards further is the “Sextry” passage, or (as it is called in our
provincialism) a “shut.” This originally communicated with St. Chad’s
church-yard by a covered passage, and derived its name from the sacristy
of the church, which is supposed to have stood within it. An old
building, now the “Golden Cross,” appears to have been a tavern as early
as the year 1495, for in the archives of the corporation is the charge of
13s. 2d. “for wine spent on the king’s gentlemen in the Sextrie.” Its
gloomy and confined situation proves how little our unpolished ancestors
regarded accommodation or prospect when they were enjoying the pleasure
of a jovial carouse.
The ancient stone building at the extremity of the street was in times
past occupied as the
SHEARMEN’S HALL;
since which it has been used as a theatre, a methodist chapel, an
assembly room, and a temporary assize court; and although now modernised
as a tea warehouse, the present remains convey much of the character of
the “city halls” of other days, associated with the good cheer,
inspirating feasts, and the social merriment of com-brethren in the olden
time.
[Picture: Shearmen’s Hall]
The period of its erection is not known; but before the front was altered
it presented (according to a drawing in the possession of the writer) a
bold pointed window in the style of the fifteenth century, the apex of
the gable being finished with an elegant finial. On the south-west side
a very curious octagonal chimney, crenelated at the top, still remains.
The company of Shearmen were incorporated at least as early as the reign
of Edward the Fourth, and the extracts preserved from their records
afford many pleasing particulars of ancient customs and hospitality. The
setting up of a “green tree,” or May-pole, before their hall, “deck’d
with garlands gay,” was, according to an old MS. an usage practised by
the apprentices of this company on their feast-day (June 6th) previous to
the year 1588. The noisy revelry connected therewith, and of
“Lads and lasses dancing round,”
seems to have excited the displeasure of the puritans, and the custom
having been denounced by the “public preacher of the town,” {151} and
forbidden by the bailiffs, the MS. further says, that “in 1591 certain
young men for their disobedience were put into prison and indicted at the
sessions, but on their submission they were acquit of their disobedience,
and all further proceedings against them quashed, and it was determined
that the usual tree might be put up as heretofore, so that it be done
soberly and in good order, without contention.” The attempt to obstruct
this ancient festivity caused an angry cavilling and interchange of
written communications between the favourers of it and the bailiffs, so
as to raise an opposition at the annual passing of the town accounts, for
the expence incurred by the prosecution.
In the reign of Elizabeth, six hundred shearmen or cloth-workers were
occupied (under the drapers) in dressing or raising the wool on one side
of a coarse kind of cloth called Welsh webs, which were brought from
Merionethshire and Montgomeryshire to a weekly market in this town.
This manner of raising the wool having been found to weaken the texture
of the cloths, the avocation of the company became useless and was
discontinued.
Leaving St. Julian’s Church (p. 59) on the left, we arrive at the WYLE
COP,—cop is the Saxon word for top, or head of any thing, and this part
is considered as the first portion of the town inhabited by the early
British settlers, being situated near the royal dwelling of Brochwel (the
site of Old St. Chad’s church). The Saxons, on their possession of the
town, continued (without doubt) for a time to occupy the huts abandoned
by the Britons. From hence the town extended itself northward in the
direction of the churches. Proceeding down the Wyle Cop, we pass the
LION HOTEL, four doors below is the house which formed the temporary
residence of King Henry the Seventh, who, although he left the bailiffs
to pay his soldiers, did not forget the favour conferred upon him by the
burgesses. From this place is a pretty distant view of the Wrekin, Lord
Hill’s Column, &c. At the foot of the Wyle, and turning to the right, we
leave on the left the precinct of the GREY FRIARS, and pass along
_Beeches Lane_, anciently _Bispestan_ and _Bushpestanes_, in which is the
Blue School and the Roman Catholic Chapel, and arrive at
THE TOWN WALLS,
erected in the time of Henry the Third, to fortify the place against the
inroads of the Welsh, and towards the completion of which the burgesses
were materially assisted by the royal bounty. These walls, although now
deprived of their battlements, form an excellent footpath, and afford a
delightful view of the river and adjacent country. At the extremity of
the Walls is the _Crescent_; and a little beyond stands the only
remaining Tower of nearly twenty which formerly strengthened the ancient
ramparts that enclosed our town.
It is square, and of three stories, embattled at the summit, and lighted
by narrow square windows; from the style of building, it is probably as
old as the reign of Henry the Fourth.
[Picture: The Old Tower]
Nearly adjoining the Tower is the Meeting-house of the Methodist New
Connexion; and further on to the right is _Swan Hill_, formerly called
_Murivance_, signifying before or within the walls. Passing Allatt’s
School, a chaste freestone building, the turning to the right leads to
_St. John’s Hill_, chiefly occupied by private individuals. Proceeding
onwards, St. Chad’s church breaks upon the view, having a terrace on the
south-west side which commands a fine prospect of the beautiful QUARRY
WALK. Leaving the principal entrance to this delightful promenade, a
broad thoroughfare leads to the handsome residences of _Claremont
Buildings_. Continuing our route to the end of this street, a narrow way
opens to St. Austin’s Friars and the river, on the margin of which once
stood an out-work, flanked by two round towers, erected by the
corporation at a remote period for the protection of the opposite ford.
In later times one of these towers was called the “Round House,” and was
demolished about forty years ago. Turning to the right, we observe the
remnant of the house of
THE AUSTIN FRIARS,
of which little appears excepting the outer portion of a red stone
building, now used as a tan-house. The Friars Eremites of St. Augustine
are supposed to have located in this town about the middle of the
thirteenth century, and erected their house on a site which had been used
during the reign of John as a place of sepulture, interment in
consecrated ground having for a period been forbidden by that king.
The following beautiful initial letter, affixed to a charter from Edward
the Third, in 1345, assigns to the friars of this convent the out-work
above alluded to, under certain conditions, with leave to have a postern
gate for ingress and egress towards their house and church.
[Picture: Initial Letter of a Charter from Edw. III. to the Austin’s
Friars]
The king is depicted as sitting upon his throne, holding a globe in his
left and a sceptre in his right hand, with two friars kneeling before
him, and a third presenting a book or charter.
In the church of this Priory was a sanctuary, where a murderer could take
refuge, and thereby escape his merited punishment; and several knights
and men of rank, slain in the battle of Shrewsbury, were buried within
its walls.
Previously to the dissolution, this house, like many others, fell
suddenly into a state of bankruptcy, and the church was stripped of its
furniture and vestments. On the site of the precinct which once
pertained to this friary, and extended to the Quarry walk, several good
houses have been erected.
On the opposite side of the river is the suburb of Frankwell, bordered
with gardens; Millington’s Hospital crowning the eminence.
THE WELSH BRIDGE
next attracts attention. It is a bold and substantial structure,
completed in 1795, from a design by Messrs. Tilley and Carline, of this
town, at a cost of £8000. It consists of five semi-circular arches,
surmounted with a balustrade, and is 266 feet in length and 30 in
breadth.
It has been truly remarked, that while in cities of greater commercial
importance no public works of great extent have been carried on without
the exaction of tolls and contributions, the inhabitants of this town and
county have, to their immortal honour, erected two noble bridges, by
which the trade of the neighbouring districts has been released from the
burthen of a vexatious tax, at a total expence of full £30,000, the whole
of which was raised by voluntary contribution.
[Picture: The Welsh Bridge]
It is, however, matter of regret that too little attention has been shewn
to encroachments on the river, by which much of the beauty of our bridges
has been destroyed.
Adjoining the Welsh bridge are quays and spacious warehouses, from whence
the barges and trows receive and discharge their cargoes. This end of
the town formerly displayed a scene of commercial importance, as being
the place where the London, Birmingham, and Manchester waggons arrived,
and from whence goods were forwarded to all parts of the kingdom; but
owing to the communication opened with the above-mentioned places by the
Shrewsbury canal, which terminates in the Castle-foregate, most of the
goods arrive there; this part, therefore, retains little more of its
former bustle than is occasioned by the arrival of waggons for the
dispatch of merchandize into North Wales, and what remains of the Severn
trade.
From hence we proceed up the street called MARDOL; about half-way up, on
the right, is HILL’S LANE, where is situated
ROWLEY’S MANSION,
said to be the first brick structure erected in Shrewsbury. It appears
to have been built in 1618 by William Rowley, draper, and the first of
his family who settled in this town, of which he was admitted a burgess
in 1594, and made an alderman in 1633, under the charter of Charles the
First. His grand-daughter and co-heiress married John Hill, Esq. who
lived in great hospitality in this mansion, from whom the street received
the appellation of _Hill’s Lane_, instead of Knuckin-street. He died in
1731, and the house was soon afterwards inhabited by the talented Dr.
Adams, incumbent of St. Chad’s from 1731 to 1775.
The portal of this mansion is curious, and is accurately delineated by
the wood cut. The great chamber, or withdrawing room, remains nearly in
its original state, and is adorned with a basso relievo representation of
the Creation, and other devices in stucco, &c. The oak wainscot from the
other apartments has lately been removed. It is now used as a storehouse
for grain, and presents a striking picture of—
“Some banquet Hall deserted,
Whose lights are fled, whose glory’s dead,
And all but it departed.”
[Picture: Portal of Rowley’s Mansion]
Retracing our steps to Mardol, at the top of the street is a pile of
ancient houses, decorated on the exterior with plaster and stone
ornaments, in the fantastical fashion of the time in which they were
built. The turning below these leads to _Claremont Street_, formerly
Doglane. On the left is a curious half-timbered house, built in 1613,
with a projecting porch. A little lower is the Baptist Meeting House.
Keeping to the left, is an old mansion, called
THE BELL STONE,
from a large stone which formerly stood outside the wall that surrounded
the portion of the court not occupied by the buildings. The stone is now
removed to the area in front of the house, which before the recent
alteration was a good specimen of the smaller mansion of the reign of
Queen Elizabeth. It was erected by Edward Owen, Esq. a bailiff of the
town in 1582.
Leaving the new Theatre on the right, we enter the street called
SHOPLATCH, a name supposed to be derived from SHUTT PLACE, the residence
of an ancient Shrewsbury family of the name of Shutt, the remains of
which are still to be traced in the massive walls of a stone edifice long
disused, however, for domestic purposes, and arrive at Mardol Head,
formerly called THE STALLS. At the corner leading to High-street is
IRELAND’S MANSION,
once the town residence of the ancient family of Ireland, long seated at
Albrighton. It is a spacious half-timbered building, four stories high,
finished with gables, on the beams of which are the following armorial
bearings—Gules, three fleurs de lis, three, two, and one, Argent. The
front consists of four ranges of bay windows, the original entrance
having been in the centre under a Tudor arch. It is now divided into
three excellent dwellings.
Passing up PRIDE HILL, formerly called Corvisors’ Row, we reach the High
Pavement, where, opposite the present Butter and Poultry Market, once
stood
THE HIGH CROSS,
which was no doubt similar in design to the elegant structures at
Chichester and other places. It appears to have escaped the iconoclastic
zeal of the puritans; for we learn that the old stone cross was not taken
down until the year 1705. All general proclamations, as in former times,
are still made upon this spot, whilst the reminiscences connected with it
afford a melancholy picture of feudal severity. Here David, the last of
the British Princes, underwent his cruel sentence, for defending by force
of arms the liberties of his native country; and here the Earl of
Worcester and other distinguished noblemen, after the battle of
Shrewsbury, atoned for their rebellion by the loss of their heads.
Continuing our course, we enter CASTLE STREET, which is terminated in a
picturesque manner by Laura’s tower on the Castle mount, and the
umbrageous foliage with which it is surrounded. At the extremity of this
spacious street stands
ST. NICHOLAS’S CHAPEL,
the only one existing of eight similar structures. Its present
appearance proves it to be of Norman foundation, and built probably by
Earl Roger de Montgomery for the accommodation of such of his retainers
as resided in the _outer court_ of the castle within which it once stood.
It was subsequently appropriated for the accommodation of the President
and Council of the Marches of Wales. The west end displays a pointed
window divided by a mullion, and in the interior is a massive
semi-circular arch, which separated the nave from a chancel now
destroyed. In lowering the floor in 1825, several human skulls and bones
were discovered. The building is 50 feet long, by 19 wide, and is used
at present as a coach-house and stable.
[Picture: Gateway of Council House]
To the right of this edifice is a handsome timber gateway, erected in
1620, which leads to
THE COUNCIL HOUSE,
or LORD’S PLACE, originally occupied as the residence of the Court of the
Marches of Wales; the Lords President and Council of which, in
assembling,
“With temper’d awe to guide
An old and haughty nation proud in arms,”
were frequently received here “righte royallie” by the corporation and
trading companies; the latter, no doubt, considering that the great
number of persons which this Court attracted to the town in its judicial
capacity, independent of the attendant pomp and feasting, was of no small
benefit to them in their respective crafts and occupations, by
multiplying the consumption of the necessaries of life, and imparting to
Shrewsbury somewhat of the importance of a second capital.
In the early part of the rebellion, the Corporation sent an invitation to
Charles the First, stating that he should “have free access into the
town, and be entertained in the best manner these troublesome times
afford.” The unfortunate monarch accepted the loyal offer of his
Salopian subjects, and arrived here Sept. 20th, 1642, attended by his two
sons (the Prince of Wales and the Duke of York) and his nephew Prince
Rupert, where he resided for the space of six weeks. King James the
Second also kept his court here in 1687.
In 1583 the Corporation granted to Richard Barker, Esq. town-clerk of
Shrewsbury, their interest in the council house and adjoining chapel,
reserving the use of it for the annual residence of her Majesty’s
Council. From him it passed to Thomas Owen, Esq. also town-clerk, in
whose family it remained until it was purchased by Richard Lyster, Esq.
to whose descendant, Henry Lyster, of Rowton Castle, Esq. it now belongs.
{162}
The building stands on an eminence overhanging the river in the vicinity
of the castle, in what is supposed to have been the outer ballium of that
fortress. Its erection took place about the time of Henry the Seventh,
and it was soon afterwards considerably enlarged in all probability with
some of the materials from the castle and the adjoining convent of Black
Friars. On the extinction of the Court of the Marches in 1689, these
extensive buildings became ruinous, and their remains have been (during
the present century) converted into three good houses, which command
delightful prospects. The hall and great chamber above form a portion of
the residence of Dr. Du Gard, who has displayed a commendable taste in
preserving as far as possible the character of this part of the building.
Returning along Castle Street, on the right is the Raven Hotel, where
Lieut. Geo. Farquhar (in 1704 or 1705) wrote his comedy of “The
Recruiting Officer,” the scene of which is laid in Shrewsbury; and while
it sufficiently demonstrates he was well acquainted with that gay scene
of life which forms the subject of his play, it is equally certain he had
“living originals in his eye.” The epistle dedicatory is “To all friends
round the Wrekin,” and states he was a perfect stranger to every thing in
Salop but its character of loyalty, the number of its inhabitants, and
their generous and hospitable reception of strangers,—an eulogium, it is
devoutly to be wished, may be retained by Salopians in every generation.
Taking the direction of the street opposite the Raven, a pleasing view of
ancient and modern architecture presents itself, in St. Mary’s church and
the Infirmary. On the south-west side of the church-yard is
THE DRAPERS’ HALL,
[Picture: Drapers’ Hall, Interior View]
a half-timbered building, erected probably about the time of Elizabeth.
The interior is sufficiently described by the accompanying engraving,
presented by the liberality of the Drapers’ Company. The apartment is 28
feet by 20, but was originally of larger dimensions. It is wainscotted
with fine old oak, and the floor was once rich in emblazoned tiles. At
the north end is the upper place, or “dais,” where the members “feasted
full and high;” and on the opposite side stands a fine old chest, with
richly carved ornaments; above which is a painting said to represent the
first steward of the company, Degory Watur, and his wife; this originally
stood on the front of the hall house occupied by Degory in the
almshouses.
The east side is decorated with a portrait of Edward the Fourth, denoting
round the circumference his titles and decease in 1483. Beneath are the
following lines:—
This Yeare fourth Edward York’s farre fam’d renowne
Circled his temples with great Albion’s crowne;
When over reading the memoriale
Of Salop’s Draper’s Ancient Hospitale,
Founded in honour of the sacred Deity,
He own’d and stiled them then, the blest Society;
And with his Parliament’s sage approbation
Deigned them his Charter for a Corporation,
Which to confirme Himself was pleas’d to be
The Royal Founder of their Companie,
Granting immunities of large extent,
Which stand his bounties gratefull monument.
Edwardo 4º regi Anglorum
Gloriosissimo monumentum
Hoc posuit Pannariorum
Salopiensium grata Societas.
Returning from this hall, which is the only one appropriated to its
original purpose, to the left is DOGPOLE (from Doke or Duck, to decline,
and Poll, the head or summit); the street having an abrupt descent
towards the river, to which there was formerly a communication.
To the right is St. Mary’s Street and the Almshouses. This street was
very narrow until the year 1824, when several old buildings were taken
down. Pursuing our course along CHURCH STREET, we pass the site and
remnant of a half-timbered house, distinguished by gables, which formed a
portion of
JONES’S MANSION,
in which the Duke of York resided when he accompanied his royal father to
this town in 1642. It was also the abode of “Prince Rupert, when he
joined his uncle after the brilliant action of Worcester.” This house
was built by Thos. Jones, Esq. whose burial is noticed in the account of
the adjoining church of St. Alkmond. Leaving that sacred edifice to the
left, and turning a few yards to the right, we arrive at the DOUBLE
BUTCHER ROW, a street chiefly occupied by butcher’s shambles, and where
is an
ANCIENT TIMBER HOUSE,
considered to be one of the oldest and largest of this kind of buildings
of which our town displays so many specimens.
The projecting stories are sustained by elegant brackets, and the angle
uprights enriched with small pointed arches, carved with trefoil and
other decorations. Along the front basement is a cloister of wooden
arches obtusely pointed.—This building, 60 feet in length, is now divided
into smaller habitations. History is silent as to the time, or by whom
this edifice was erected, nor have we any decided information of its
primary occupancy.
From the appearance of the cloister, it has been conjectured that it was
a religious house, inhabited by the chauntry priests of the fraternity of
the Holy Cross in St. Alkmund’s church. But from its extent it is more
likely to have been the town mansion of the Abbot of Lilleshull, who had
a residence in this part of the parish, and to which monastery the
patronage of the church belonged.
[Picture: Ancient Timber House]
Continuing our route to the left of this house, we pass steps leading to
the churchyard, and the foundations of a stone building (which once
pertained to an _Oriel_ and the ancient college of St. Alkmond), into
Fish-street, occupied by shambles, and on market-days by the country
butchers. Crossing the top of High-street, we enter Milk-street, which
leads to Old St. Chad’s (page 28), and the street called BELMONT, in
which is situated
THE JUDGES’ HOUSE,
purchased by the County of Salop in 1821, under an act for providing
suitable accommodation for the reception of his Majesty’s judges of
assize. At the south-west end of the opposite thoroughfare across the
church-yard is the remains of a red stone wall which formed part of
THE COLLEGE OF ST. CHAD,
originally a large ancient building inclosing a quadrangular court,
separated from the street by a lofty wall and gateway, In 1549 Edward the
Sixth granted the college to Hugh Edwards, Esq. the individual who (in
1551) exerted himself in obtaining the foundation of our grammar school.
It continued in his family until 1752, when Lord and Lady Malpas disposed
of the buildings, which were soon afterwards converted into three
excellent houses, but so effectually modernized with brick as to display
none of the appearance of a “college,” although the name is still
retained.
Westward is College Hill. Half-way down this street, a modern Gothic
front denotes
VAUGHAN’S PLACE,
which, before its alteration and brick casing in 1795, was considered a
most curious specimen of the unembattled town mansion, erected (it is
conjectured) about the middle of the fourteenth century by Sir Hamo
Vaughan, whose daughter Eleanor married Reginald de Mutton. By this
alliance the house came into the possession of the Myttons of Halston,
several of whom represented this town in parliament; but little of its
original state now appears. The hall is approached from a passage near
the Corn-market by a flight of steps, and displays a deeply-recessed
pointed arch; a similar one is seen from the College-hill entrance. One
portion of the building forms the WATCH ROOM and POLICE STATION of the
town, and some of the spacious vaults beneath are used as a temporary
receptacle for midnight disorderlies.
Nearly adjoining, in the street leading to the Corn-market, is the TALBOT
HOTEL, where the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria alighted on
their visit to this town in 1832, on which occasion the mayor and
corporation waited upon them with a congratulatory address.
LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS.
SHROPSHIRE AND NORTH WALES NATURAL HISTORY AND ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY.
At a meeting held at Shrewsbury on the 26th of June, 1835, it was
resolved to establish a Natural History Society for the county of Salop
and North Wales, and to found a central museum and scientific library.
In order to secure the perpetuity of the institution, and to guard
against the possible dispersion of the museum at any future period, the
property of the society is vested in the lords lieutenant of the county
of Salop, and of the several counties of North Wales, as trustees, for
the permanent use and benefit of the district at large.
The museum is principally designed to illustrate the Natural History of
the district, in its various branches of geology, mineralogy, zoology,
and botany, by the gradual formation of complete and systematic
arrangements of its productions, in each of these departments. It is
also open to other objects of scientific interest, and in particular is a
suitable repository for such remains of antiquity as are found within the
district, or illustrate its general history. But, in addition to these
more local objects, the museum will, it is anticipated, through the
liberality of the friends of science in various quarters, be enriched
with many specimens from distant places.
The library consists of Books illustrative of Natural History and
Antiquities, and such works of reference as the funds of the society may
admit of being purchased, for the illustration of the objects in the
museum. The library, as well as the museum, is open to donations from
the members and friends of the institution.
The society’s affairs are under the management of a council, consisting
of a president and other officers, elected annually.
A house situated in Dogpole is at present the temporary repository for
the collections of the Museum, &c.
THE SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY
Is on St. John’s Hill, and contains an excellent collection of books in
the various departments of literature and science. Its affairs are
confided to a committee. Proprietary members pay two guineas admission,
and an annual subscription of one guinea and a half; and strangers, on
the introduction of a subscriber, have the privilege of consulting any of
the books during library hours.
THE NEW CHORAL SOCIETY
Has for its design the cultivation of the delightful science of sacred
music, and was revived in 1834. It is under the management of a
secretary and committee, and is supported by a respectable number of
honorary members.
THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY
was engrafted (in the year 1834) on a florists’ society planted in this
town in 1823. Its object is to promote the culture of the auricula,
polyanthus, pink, ranunculus, carnation, picotee, dahlia, gooseberry, &c.
MECHANICS’ INSTITUTION.
This institution commenced in 1825, and in the year 1833 a building was
erected for their meetings in Howard-street, Castle-foregate. The
expences of the establishment are defrayed by subscriptions and
donations.
NEWSPAPERS.
Two weekly newspapers are published here: viz. _Wednesday_, THE SALOPIAN
JOURNAL, by Mr. John Eddowes, Corn-market. _Friday_, THE SHREWSBURY
CHRONICLE, by Mr. John Watton, St. John’s-hill.
WALK WITHOUT THE WALLS.
“Scenes must be beautiful which daily view’d
Please daily, and whose novelty survives
Long knowledge and the scrutiny of years.
Praise justly due to those I now describe.”
SHREWSBURY QUARRY.
On the south-western side of the town is one of the most celebrated
promenades in the kingdom, called The Quarry.
It is formed in a tract of verdant meadow ground of twenty-three acres,
gradually sloping to the river Severn, along the banks of which are
planted a graceful avenue of lime trees, extending 540 yards in length,
whose lofty arching branches entwine themselves so as to resemble the
long aisle of some religious fane.
Three other walks, planted in a similar manner, serve as approaches from
the town to this the principal promenade, which being enlivened with many
pleasing views, renders it in point of situation and beauty unrivalled.
Here the inhabitant may inhale the refreshing breeze wafted from the
rippling river,—the invalid find a cool and sequestered retreat free from
the noise of a bustling town,—while the mind alive to the charms of
nature may enjoy its philosophic contemplations in the ever-changing
beauties of the seasons.
A cluster of horse-chesnut and other trees growing in a dingle, and which
in autumn present a beautifully variegated mass of foliage, diversify
what otherwise might be considered a formal arrangement of these walks,
which were planted during the mayoralty of Henry Jenks, Esq. in 1719, and
derive their name from a red sandstone which was formerly procured from
this dingle.
On the opposite side of the meandering river is a verdant eminence
fringed with luxuriant plantations.
At the north-western end of the Quarry, near Claremont, is a sloping
bank, which originally formed an amphitheatre, called the “Dry Dingle,”
where religious mysteries (or miracle plays) were celebrated. Prince
Arthur, in 1494, attended one of these exhibitions, which were performed
on this spot, even after the Reformation, by the head-schoolmaster, Mr.
Ashton, and his pupils.
Crossing the ferry, at the extremity of the walk leading from the remains
of this amphitheatre, and pursuing the footpath in the field to the left
of the Boat-house, we reach an eminence from whence a prospect opens to
the view combining water, hill, plain, and wood in charming variety.
Continuing from hence to the right of the House of Industry, we arrive at
KINGSLAND,
or, as written in an early Norman grant, _Chingsland_. This is an
extensive piece of land, belonging to the ancient burgesses of
Shrewsbury, thirty of whom in rotation annually receive four shillings
and sixpence from its produce, in lieu of a “turn for their kine.” On
this place the festival of Shrewsbury Show (described page 109) is held,
and it commands a prospect which stretches to a considerable distance
over a beautiful and well-cultivated country, diversified with mountains
possessing form and interest.
Returning to the front of the House of Industry, and pursuing the path
from the bank on which that building stands, we cross the Severn by means
of the ferry at the Can Office, and enter the pastures called “_Stury’s
Close_” where the Earl of Pembroke, Lord President of the Marches,
“mustered all the country, both of horsemen and footmen,” in 1588 (a year
memorable for the defeat of the Invincible Armada), and soon reach
THE GREY OR FRANCISCAN FRIARY.
[Picture: The Grey or Franciscan Friary]
The remnant illustrated by the wood cut comprises probably the refectory,
which was partly re-edificed as late as the reign of Henry the Eighth.
This religious society, sometimes called Friars Minors, settled in this
town early in the thirteenth century. Hawis, wife to Charleton Lord of
Powys (born in 1291), and heir of the ancient Princes of Powys
Gwenwynwyn, was a great benefactress to this friary, if not its second
foundress.
From the quantity of bones which have been found within the precinct of
this convent, it would seem that no unprofitable use was made of the
privilege granted to this order by the Pope of “_liberam sepulturam_.”
This and their reputed sanctity, as well as the popular belief that
whoever was buried in their cemetery or in the habit of a grey friar
would be secure from the attacks of evil spirits and find an easy
entrance into heaven, were circumstances doubtless of such importance as
to induce many persons to desire sepulture among such hallowed men.
The splendid stained glass now in the eastern window of St. Mary’s
chancel is supposed to have originally decorated the church of this
friary, which was the burial place of the Lords of Powys.
On the opposite side of the river is the foundry and the suburb of
Coleham.
Passing under the arch of the English Bridge, to the left are some modern
dwellings on the site of a curious half-timbered mansion erected in the
reign of Elizabeth by William Jones, an alderman and opulent draper of
the town, and father of Thomas Jones, the first mayor of Shrewsbury. A
view and description of this curious building, communicated by the author
of these pages, will be found in vol. 99, part ii. of the Gentleman’s
Magazine.
A few yards beyond stood
THE DOMINICAN FRIARY,
which comprehended nearly the whole space now occupied by gardens between
the bridge and the water gate. {176}
This order of mendicants took their name from their founder, and were
sometimes called “Preachers” from their office, and “Black Friars” from
their dress.
The convent, like those of the Austin and Franciscan friars, was placed
on the margin of the river, outside the walls and adjacent to the
bridges.
From the rich architectural remains, &c. which have occasionally been dug
up here, the church must have been a spacious and elegant building; but,
in common with the other convents, it shared the fate of the dissolution
of monasteries, and was sold by Henry the Eighth in 1543. The hand of
man, combined with the operations of time, had, previously to 1823, left
but few vestiges either of the convent where Richard and George
Plantagenet, two sons of Edward the Fourth, were born, or the more recent
fortifications erected on this interesting spot,—where several military
transactions were determined in various periods of our domestic history.
The bank on which this friary stood was levelled in the above-mentioned
year, when the foundations of several walls were cleared to a
considerable extent, and numerous capitals, pieces of mullions, with
remains of stained glass, enamelled tiles, &c. were discovered by the
workmen employed in the construction of a new building and wharf.
Several stone graves were also brought to view, the masonry of which was
well finished, and formed so as nearly to fit the corpse. After clearing
the soil from these tombs, skeletons were found encased in red sand, but
without the least trace of any thing in which the body might have been
enveloped. The only remains of this once noble pile are the materials
used in the construction of a stable and the wall surrounding the
gardens. Adjoining is
THE WATER-LANE GATE,
[Picture: The Waterlane Gateway]
Through which the parliamentary army entered, Feb. 22d, 1644–5, and
captured the town. The means by which this was accomplished showed much
generalship and secrecy on the part of the Parliamentarians. It appears
a detachment of soldiers belonging to that party left Wem, and marched
under the shadow of night to the extremity of the Castle-foregate, where
the troopers halted at four o’clock in the morning, in order that the
foot soldiers might effect an entrance by stratagem. The infantry turned
off on the left to the river, being led by a puritanical minister of the
town, named Huson, a kinsman of the celebrated John Huson, who from a
cobbler rose to be a colonel and a member of the Barebones parliament.
The dismounted troopers were under the command of Benbow, who, being a
native of Shrewsbury, was aware of the part most easily attacked. From
the end of Castle-foregate they advanced through the fields to the castle
ditch (now a thoroughfare), which was defended on the town side by strong
palisading and a breastwork of earth. A boat on the river contained
several carpenters and other persons, who commenced sawing down the
paling near the river to effect a passage for the soldiers. This was
soon accomplished, and by assisting one another over the ditch the
breastwork was gained. Having succeeded thus far, they seem to have
divided themselves into two divisions; the one party, headed by Benbow,
scaled the wall on the eminence between the Watch Tower and the Council
House, by means of light ladders. The main body, consisting of 350 men,
entered by the gate shewn in the engraving, to which a tower and outwork
was formerly attached. This, and a similar fort about the middle of the
lane where the town wall crossed, yielded without resistance by the
connivance of careless and treacherous sentinels, who are supposed to
have been intoxicated and privy to the design. The party who had scaled
the wall hastened to procure an entrance at the north or castle gate,
which was soon done, and having let down the draw-bridge, the horse, with
Colonels Mytton and Bowyer at their head, made the best of their way to
the main court of guard held in the Market-place, where they found their
comrades engaged with the royalists. The loss on both sides was
inconsiderable, amounting to only seven men and one captain. The castle
surrendered about noon, when the garrison was immediately marched off to
Ludlow, with the exception of thirteen poor Irishmen, who, being left to
the tender mercies of the parliamentary leaders, were hanged the same day
without trial.
Continuing the walk by the side of the river, the most prominent object
is the tower on the castle mount, from whose lofty height a group of
majestic trees decline to the banks of the Severn, which in this part
bends gracefully over its gravelly bed. The pathway brings us to the
island where a pageant took place in honour of Sir Henry Sidney (noticed
page 11). A little beyond, on the opposite side of the river, is the
ferry for conveying horses across by which barges are towed up the
stream. {179} The meadows into which we have passed comprised a portion
of the ancient Derfald, or enclosure for the keeping of deer,—in other
words a park, which may not inaptly be called
SHREWSBURY PARK,
for it belonged to our first Norman earl, and in all probability to some
of the Saxon monarchs. The situation of the ground, before it was
stripped of its timber, possessed every advantage of pasture, water, and
diversified surface.—According to the record of Domesday, it was the
custom, when the king resided here, for twelve of the better sort of
citizens to keep watch over him; and when he went out hunting, those
having horses protected him. This practice probably arose in consequence
of the murder of Alfhelm (an earl of the blood royal) in 1016, who,
having been invited here and hospitably entertained by Ædric Streona
(son-in-law to King Etheldred), was barbarously assassinated by a butcher
while hunting, whom the perfidious Ædric had engaged for that purpose.
The boundaries of these pleasant fields bring us to the Shrewsbury canal,
which for some distance beyond passes above the banks of the river; while
from the canal towing-path numerous pleasing views may be obtained,
affording an agreeable half-hour’s walk to the picturesque village of
Uffington.
Retracing our steps along the green banks of the Severn, we arrive at a
gentle ascent which leads to the promenade surrounding the prison. From
hence the long ridge of Haughmond Hill, linked as it were to the noble
Wrekin,—the stately character of the White Hall,—the patriotic Column in
honour of Lord Hill,—the venerable Abbey Church, standing like a
patriarch among its more modern compeers,—the Stretton Hills in the
distance, and close at hand the frowning walls of the Castle, clad by
nature’s hand with stains of sober hue, combine to attract the eye and
the mind.
On a line with the front of the County Prison is
HOWARD-STREET,
having at the top a fine colossal figure of Hercules, which was cast at
Rome from the Farnese Hercules, and is no inapt memorial of the labour
consequent upon the removal of upwards of 26,000 loads of soil in the
formation of the street.
Passing to the DANA WALK, “where the huge castle hold its state,” the
prospect is bounded to the right by the eminences of Hawkstone,
Grinshill, Pimhill, Almond Park, and the plain of “Battlefield.”
Westward is Berwick House, embosomed in sylvan beauty, and beyond in the
horizon are a range of Cambrian mountains, gradually fading into the
clouds, which in point of colour they not unfrequently resemble. Among
these may be particularly distinguished those gigantic landmarks between
England and Wales,—the Breidden and Moelygolfa hills. The former rises
to the height of 1000 feet, and has on the summit a pillar erected to
commemorate the great victory obtained by Admiral Rodney over the French
fleet in the West Indies, 1782.
By a modern archway opened through the wall abutting from the Castle at
the time this walk was formed, in 1790, we are again brought within the
walls. This part, however, of
THE TOWN WALLS
extended in a line with the Castle Gates across the isthmus down to the
banks of the river, having a corresponding barrier on the other side of
the castle. It was erected by Robert de Belesme, third Norman Earl of
Shrewsbury, under the idea that his father’s fortifications were not of
sufficient strength to withstand a siege from the forces of Henry I.
which in 1102 marched against him (page 14).
An additional rampart called Roushill, enclosing the space between the
wall of Earl Robert and the Welsh bridge, was added during the
Commonwealth. These walls for many years served as a communication
between the northern and western parts of the town; but in 1835 the more
modern portion was nearly buried in the formation of a new road.
RECREATIVE.
THE THEATRE.
[Picture: The New Theatre]
WHEN man is contemplated in the character of a being, who can be
successfully addressed by an appeal to the passions and the
understanding, the Drama, under proper restrictions, may be rendered
serviceable.
I have heard
That guilty creatures, sitting at a play,
Have, by the very cunning of the scene,
Been struck so to the soul, that presently
They have proclaim’d their malefactions.
SHAKSPEARE.
The old building used for the purpose of dramatic performance in this
town, is said to have formed part of a royal dwelling of the Princes of
Powys Land. Having long been ruinous, it was purchased by Mr. Bennett,
the manager, and taken down in 1833. The erection of the present theatre
on its site has been an important improvement to the thoroughfare leading
to St. John’s Hill and the Quarry, as well as an ornament to the town.
It forms a centre and two wings; the lower part consists of a rusticated
base, upwards of 100 feet in length, fitted up as shops, with a house for
the manager. Above is a continued string-course, from which rises two
pilasters in each wing, supporting a frieze and cornice.
The windows are finished with architraves, and the front of the building
displays three niches, containing statues of the immortal bard SHAKSPEARE
and of the COMIC and TRAGIC MUSE, executed in compos by Mr. James Parry,
a native of this town.
The interior of the theatre is conveniently arranged: in the centre is a
dome, and the ceiling richly decorated with appropriate devices. The
building is creditable to the taste of Mr. Bennett, whose spirited
undertaking in this public improvement will no doubt be appreciated by
the lovers of the drama. The new structure was opened Sept. 8th, 1834,
under the patronage of the Mayor.
THE CIRCUS
is a large brick building near the Welsh bridge, in which equestrian
performances occasionally take place. It is used on fair days as a
butter and cheese market.
THE HORSE RACES
are annually held in the third week of September, and continue for three
days. They are generally attended by the rank and fashion of the county,
and attract a considerable influx of visitors to the town. The king
contributes a plate of one hundred guineas.
THE ASSEMBLY ROOM
was erected in 1777, at the back of the Lion Hotel, and is a commodious
and tastefully decorated apartment, where most of the balls are held.
THE SHREWSBURY HUNT
takes place about the middle of November, and brings to the town a
respectable number of the nobility and gentry of the county, who pass a
week with a president annually chosen from the members, while a
fashionable ball gives additional hilarity to the meeting.
ANGLING.
The Severn has long been celebrated for the excellency of its
fish—salmon, pike, grayling, trout, perch, and many others. The votaries
of the “Gentle Craft,” if not always gratified with excellent sport, or
the finny tribe should sometimes not be disposed “to bite,” may find
pleasure in the contemplation of the scenery around.
It must however be mentioned, and with regret, that the fishing of the
river near the town has of late years been almost ruined by the daring
excess of poaching with illegal nets, so as to threaten, as it were, the
annihilation of the piscatory race, unless the laws are put in force for
their defence. Some of the lesser streams near the town, however, afford
a tolerable supply of good trout.
AQUATIC EXCURSIONS.
Much pleasant exercise and amusement is afforded on the Severn during the
summer months. Several parties possess boats, and an emulation of skill
is frequently excited among the more experienced rowers.
An annual gala is generally given by the young gentlemen of Shrewsbury
School in the month of June.
Boats may be hired for the day at a moderate charge, and pic-nic parties
take an excursion up the river to the picturesque and woody banks at
Shelton, the shady groves near Berwick and the Isle, or downwards to the
rural villages of Uffington, Atcham, &c. On a summer’s evening, when all
is calm and serene, the sail is truly delightful.
THE SUBURBS OF SHREWSBURY
comprise five separate districts, viz. Coton Hill, Castle Foregate,
Frankwell, Abbey Foregate, and Coleham, containing a population equal to
that within the walls.
In noticing these, it is purposed to commence where our walk terminated
without the walls, viz. the Castle Gates, from whence the Castle Foregate
and Coton Hill diverge. Taking the latter thoroughfare, to the left we
enter Chester Street, into which a new line of road is opened,
communicating with Mardol, and carried over the ancient fosse and through
a portion of the wall erected by Robert de Belesme. A few yards further
are
THE WATER WORKS,
which supply every house in the remotest part of the town with water for
domestic purposes, being raised from the river by means of a steam
engine, capable of throwing up 22,000 gallons in the hour. The Company
was established under an act of parliament in 1830. {186}
Nearly opposite are
THE ROYAL BATHS,
[Picture: The Royal Baths, Coton-hill]
affording conveniences equal to any which are to be found in the
first-rate establishments of this kind in the kingdom, while the moderate
terms and strict attention to cleanliness and comfort will, no doubt,
ensure to them the patronage and support of the public. Hot air, vapour,
shower, warm, salt, medicated, and fresh water baths are in constant
readiness, and the pleasure bath is of sufficient dimensions to enable
persons to learn the art of swimming.
The building is of a chaste design, the front being ornamented with a
portico, supported by two Ionic pillars and two pilasters.
From the road, winding on the banks of the river, an imposing view of the
town may be obtained, with a considerable portion of the walls by which
it was formerly encompassed. A bold clump of trees on the right denotes
BENBOW HOUSE,
where the gallant Admiral Benbow was born in 1650, whose distinguished
deeds in arms have rendered him an honour to our town and country. This
brave sailor not only stood against the enemy in the memorable action off
Carthagena, in August, 1702, until every hold was gone, but had to
encounter the unparalleled treachery of those under his command. The
operation of amputating his leg, which was shattered by a chain-shot in
the late engagement, added to the deep mental anxiety occasioned by the
base conduct of his captains, brought on a fever which terminated his
career of glory November 4th, in the same year, universally lamented.
His remains received the rites of sepulture in Kingston church, Jamaica.
{187}
In the year 1828, a subscription was commenced in this town for the
purpose of erecting some memorial in St. Mary’s church (the parish in
which he was born) commemorative of this distinguished Salopian, towards
which our no less courageous townsman, Admiral Sir Edward Owen, K.C.B.
with that frankness and honourable feeling so characteristic of the true
British sailor, munificently contributed.
We now arrive at
COTON HILL,
where stood the suburban mansion of the Myttons of Halston, in which that
family resided after vacating their town house of Vaughan’s Place.
North-west of the turnpike was
ST. CATHARINE’s CHAPEL,
in a pasture still called the Chapel Yard. {188}
Coton appears at a remote period to have been connected with the Suburb
of Frankwell by a bank, which caused the river to spread over the meadows
called the “Purditches,” forcing its waters from thence under Hencot and
Cross Hill in a channel still strongly marked by its rising banks, and
discernible at all times, especially during floods, until the stream
found its way into the present channel near the Royal Baths. This is
particularly evident at the foot of Cross Hill, one mile on the Ellesmere
road, to the right of which a toll bar communicates with a pleasant lane,
the ancient road to Berwick. From the brow of this lane, the old course
of the Severn may be easily defined. From hence, also, the town unfolds
itself with peculiar beauty backed by the frontier of Salopian and
Cambrian mountains, increasing in variety and picturesque effect
throughout this delightful rural walk, until we arrive at Marshall’s
Factory, where a wooden bridge over the canal conducts again to the
suburb of
THE CASTLE FOREGATE,
the point from which we at first diverged. This long street has become a
place of much traffic, owing to a communication having been opened, in
1835, with Birmingham, London, Liverpool, &c. by means of THE SHREWSBURY
CANAL, to and from which places goods are received into warehouses
erected on its banks. This canal was originally formed in 1797, for the
purpose of supplying the town and neighbourhood with coal, brought from
Hadley, Ketley, &c. in the eastern part of Shropshire.
The canal terminates on the N.W. side of the County Prison, in a spacious
COAL WHARF,
belonging to the Canal Company, where this indispensible necessary of
life may be obtained, of excellent quality, at fifteen shillings per ton.
Coal is also procured at the collieries of Welbatch and Uffington, three
miles distant from the town.
THE SUBURB OF FRANKWELL,
anciently written _Frankville_, lies on the west side of the Welsh
bridge, and is a township within the parish of St. Chad. In former times
it suffered much from the ravages of the Welsh, being in the line of road
to the principality, as it is now the thoroughfare to Holyhead.
The inquisitive eye of the antiquary will discover in this suburb many
curious specimens of the half-timbered dwellings of our ancestors, one in
particular, better known now as the “String of Horses,” appears, from
initials, &c. over the chimney piece, to have been erected at least as
early as 1576. To the left of this building is “New Street,” leading to
Millington’s Hospital, Kingsland, &c. Roads also branch off to the
village of Hanwood, and the mining districts of Pontesbury and Westbury.
Passing onward to the right is St. George’s church (page 89), a short
distance from which is the “Mount,” so called from a strong outwork
erected during the civil wars, under the direction of Lord Capel, and in
which he planted several pieces of cannon to protect the town. The
garrison of this fort vigorously resisted the attacks of the
parliamentarians, even after the town and castle had been captured. In
the evening, however, of that day, they had no other alternative but to
surrender upon bare quarter.
Near this fortification stood a religious house called Cadogan Chapel,
which, in the third year of Edward VI. passed into lay hands. In 1604 it
was remaining, though in a ruinous state, having been appropriated in
that year as the “Pest House.” {190}
The precinct of this chapel probably extended as far as Millington’s
Hospital, the site of the latter being to this day called “The Chapel
Yard,” and in the gardens adjoining it skeletons have been found, while a
strong yew-tree hedge, still visible at the western end of Cadogan Place,
was no doubt its boundary in that direction, near which spot stood
“_Cadogan’s Cross_,” where sermons in other days were occasionally
delivered. The bailiffs’ accounts, for 1542, record the item of sixpence
for wine given to the Lord President’s chaplain, preaching at Cadogan’s
Cross on the Rogation day. The meadows below (on the banks of the
Severn), called “_Monks Eye_,” were granted by Reginald Pinzun to the
“Almonry” of Shrewsbury Abbey, in the reign of Henry III. previously to
which they bore the appellation of “_Crosfurlong_.”
Extending our walk for one mile on the great Holyhead road (with the fine
woods of Berwick on the opposite side of the river) we reach the township
of SHELTON, where are some neat suburban villas which unite architectural
taste and rural decoration with beauty of situation and commanding
prospects. At this place stands
GLENDOWER’S OAK,
famed from the tradition that Owen Glendower, in 1403, ascended its
branches to ascertain the event of the Battle of Shrewsbury, a
circumstance not unlikely when it is considered that the country was
probably more open at that time than at present.
This champion of Welsh independence, it has been already shown, assembled
his forces at Oswestry, from whence, according to Holinshed, he sent off
only his first division, consisting of 4000 men, who behaved with spirit
in the day of action. The Welsh historians, however, have censured his
conduct on this occasion, and blame him for what it appears from some
cause he was unable to effect, viz. in neglecting to attack Henry after
the battle, when the royal forces had sustained a severe loss and were
overcome with fatigue, and when his own followers and the remainder of
the northern troops would have formed an army nearly double that of the
king’s.
There are documents to prove that this oak was “_a great tree_” within
140 years after the Battle of Shrewsbury, and was an object of remark to
old people long before. It is now a chronicle to the eye of the passing
traveller, and to those who delight to be carried back into the depth of
antiquity. Long may it be preserved from injury, and viewed as the
natural historical monument of our vicinity; for Time has truly
Hollowed in its trunk
A tomb for centuries; and buried there
The epochs of the rise and fall of states,
The fading generations of the world,
The memory of man.
According to a recent measurement, the tree is 41½ feet in height; the
girth at the base is 44¼ feet, and at eight feet from the ground 27¼
feet.
The interior is hollow, consisting of little more than a shell of bark,
forming an alcove capable of holding a dozen individuals; and
notwithstanding the branches of this aged tree have borne the blast of
many a wintry storm, still it may be said—
The Spring
Finds thee not less alive to her sweet force
Than the young upstarts of the neighbouring woods,
So much thy juniors, who their birth received
Half a millennium since the date of thine.
THE ABBEY FOREGATE.
Passing over the English, or east bridge, from which there is a striking
prospect of the town and the tower on the Castle Mount, we reach a small
tract of ground, comprising a few houses, called
MERIVALE,
or, _Murivale_, probably from its connexion with the walls.
In reference to this it appears that in the early part of the 13th
century, the abbot consented that the two plats of ground between the
main road at the east end of the bridge should be left void for the
purpose of erecting defences in the time of war; hence Merivale
subsequently became matter of frequent contest between the Corporation
and the Abbey, as to the right of jurisdiction within it. This was not
finally settled until the dissolution of the monastery, when Henry VIII.
stating the “intimate affection” which he bears towards the town of
Salop, and his desire “to do and shew favour to the bailiffs and
burgesses,” grants that they and their successors may for ever enjoy all
the liberties, privileges, &c. within the limits of the Abbey Foregate,
including the hamlet of Merivale, in as ample manner as they were enjoyed
by the last abbot or his predecessors.
Leaving the National School to the right,
THE MONASTIC REMAINS
next claim our notice, and although now very inconsiderable, yet, like
most other Abbeys, they originally consisted chiefly of two quadrangular
courts of different dimensions, the conventual church, as was customary,
being towards the north. Situated on the other sides were the refectory,
almonry, chapter house, dormitory, locutory or parlour, infirmary, guest
hall or hospitium, kitchen, and other domestic offices. The abbot’s
house or lodging commonly formed one or more portions of the smaller
quadrangle, and consisted of a complete mansion.
This Abbey, bereft of its endowments by the reforming spirit of Henry
VIII. shared the fate of other similar foundations in the rapine of the
dissolution; the buildings connected therewith were sold, and soon
afterwards despoiled of their constituent parts, chiefly for the value of
the materials, while portions were converted into dwellings and other
purposes, or left quietly to moulder into decay.
Of the remains which have excited most attention is an elegant octagonal
STONE PULPIT,
[Picture: Stone Pulpit]
from which one of the junior monks was accustomed to read to his brethren
while seated at their meals. Its situation, one half resting on the
ruined wall of the Refectory, indisputably proves this; looking outward
of the site of that building it forms a small bay window, while the other
portion, once inside the hall, is supported on a moulded bracket, which
springs from a corbel originally carved as a head. From hence it
projects to the basement of the floor, twelve feet from which rises a
conical roof sustained on six narrow pointed arches, having trefoil
heads.
The interior forms a beautiful oriel, the roof being vaulted on eight
delicate ribs, at the intersection of which in the centre is a boss of
comparatively large dimensions; on this is beautifully sculptured The
Crucifixion, with St. John and the Virgin Mary at the foot of the cross,
enclosed under a trefoil arch flanked by buttresses. The spaces of the
three northern arches, looking inwards, are filled with embattled stone
panels about three feet high, on which are enshrined several figures of
saints, &c.
This interesting relic is approached from the garden by a flight of steps
through a small doorway worked originally, it is considered, within the
thickness of the wall of the refectory.
The south wing of what is supposed to have been part of the monk’s
infirmary, chapel, &c. remains south-west of the church. It is now
appropriated as a malthouse, and may be distinguished by its lofty
gables. A similar building converted into dwellings stood near the
street, and was connected with the above by an embattled ruin flanked by
massive piers, between which were square windows divided by a transom.
This was an imposing feature to our monastic remains, and truly venerable
from its antiquity, having braved the storms and tempests of nearly one
thousand years, but was taken down without a feeling of forbearance in
1836, and the materials applied for the foundations of two houses
adjoining its site.
The present Abbey house is supposed to have been the guest hall, or
hospitium, to the east of which three pointed arches, once forming part
of a groined ceiling, denote the abbot’s lodging.
Of the chapter house, where the members of the monastery assembled to
transact their official business, not a relic is left; but in excavating
near its site, in 1836, a leaden seal was found, which had been once
appended to a bull from the Pope, whose name is thus inscribed on it,
INNOCENTIVS. PP. IIII.
The monks of this Abbey, in the third year of Pope Innocent IV. i.e.
1246, obtained a bull, setting forth the injuries committed against their
lands, tithes, possessions, &c. by the monastery of Lilleshull, by which
the dean and precentor of Lichfield were directed to convoke the parties
and hear the cause.
The dormitory was attached to the south-west side of the church, and was
cut through in the formation of a new line of road in 1836.
What a train of reflections, loudly bespeaking the vicissitudes of life,
may be called forth during our walk along this new thoroughfare. Who is
there, it may be asked, with a mind to think and a heart to feel, that
can thoughtlessly pass over ground which has been distinguished in
history, without a momentary reflection upon its former importance?
Within the Chapter House, which stood on a portion of this road, occurred
the earliest authorized assembly of that popular representation in the
constitution of this kingdom, to which, under Providence, Englishmen have
been indebted for all their subsequent prosperity,—all their energies,
and that noble independence which have characterized us as a people among
nations. {196}
Here, too, Richard the Second gratified his fondness for magnificence, by
entertaining the members of his parliament with a sumptuous feast, and,
as if to dazzle by the splendour of monarchy, and to awe by military
display, he was attired in his royal robes, and attended by a numerous
guard of Cheshire men.
The fervent orisons of a grateful heart have here been uplifted—divinity
and other important subjects discussed—and on this spot the nobility,
gentry, abbots, priors, deans, &c. of Shropshire, have frequently
congregated, and banished for a time the gloomy silence and sable garb of
the brotherhood, and exchanged the sober gravity of the refectory, and
its austere monkish repast, for wine and wassail, minstrelsey and song.
Before quitting these scattered ruins, the present remains of the Abbey
church must excite feelings of regret in the breast of every admirer of
our ancient architecture, at the mistaken zeal which caused its partial
and barbarous demolition.
An embattled wall encompassed the northern and eastern sides of the
precinct, beyond which is the FOREGATE, a respectable open street, nearly
one mile in length, and chiefly occupied by private residences. The
houses to the south have gardens which extend to the Reabrook, and
command delightful prospects of the adjacent country. This suburb (April
1st, 1774) suffered considerably from a fire, which destroyed 47
dwellings, 16 barns, 15 stables, 4 shops, and several stacks of hay,
beside damaging other property.
On the left, half way up the street, is
THE WHITE HALL,
So called from a practice, during the last century, of occasionally
colouring its deep red walls. Our native poet (Churchyard) speaks of
this stone mansion in his usual quaint manner, as standing “so trim and
finely that it graceth all the soil it is in.” In front is a handsome
gatehouse; and the pointed gables, central cupola, and ornamental
chimnies, strongly characterise it as an interesting specimen of the old
English residence peculiar to the reign of Elizabeth, while its sombre
appearance is finely set forth by the vivid foliage of walnut and other
trees adjoining. The interior has been modernised, and forms a
comfortable habitation. The building was commenced in 1578 by Richard
Prince, Esq. a celebrated lawyer, and was his manorial residence. It now
belongs to the Right Rev. the Bishop of Lichfield, by purchase from Earl
Tankerville.
[Picture: The White Hall Mansion]
A few yards distant is
THE RACE GROUND,
called the “Soldier’s Piece,” from the circumstance of Charles the First
having drawn up his army here (page 11).
Situated within a very few minutes’ walk of the town, it may in most
points compete with all the secondary courses in the kingdom. It is one
mile and 185 yards in circumference, and in addition to a fine straight
run for coming-in of 500 yards, possesses the advantage of a sight of the
horses throughout the race, combined with an extensive panoramic view of
the adjacent richly diversified country; while the town, from so many
points picturesque, has from hence a most pleasing appearance.
It may be remarked that this race course is formed on a plan, it is
believed, not previously adopted, the arrangement being such as to
provide for any distance, from half a mile to four miles, the different
lengths being conveniently fixed and marked with letters on short posts
inside the course; a reference to which is placed in the winning chair
for the information of the public.
A footpath through the meadows near the Hall conducts to the east end of
Abbey-foregate, and the noble Column erected on the great London road in
commemoration of the military achievements of Lord Hill, who, on his
return to his native county, in 1814, was welcomed into Shrewsbury by his
countrymen with all the splendid honours attendant upon a triumphal hero.
The most enthusiastic rejoicings took place, and upwards of 20,000
persons assembled to witness the festivities, &c. provided on the
occasion in the Quarry.
Leaving the venerable church of St. Giles to the left, and proceeding
about one mile to the right, along a pleasant walk embellished throughout
by an interesting prospect, we reach the saline and chalybeate spring
called
SUTTON SPA,
situated in a retired dell near the margin of the Reabrook, and the
property of the Right Hon. Lord Berwick.
The spring issues from a rocky stratum of ash-coloured clay, or
argillaceous schistus. The water is colourless, and exhales a faint
sulphureous smell, much more perceptible in rainy weather. It has been
compared with the Cheltenham water, but in reality bears a stronger
affinity to sea water, possessing, however, an advantage over that in
containing iron. In those cases, therefore, for which sea water is
usually recommended it has been found most beneficial, and proves highly
serviceable in the treatment of glandular affections, scrofula, and other
diseases of the skin. A tumbler glassful operates as a brisk aperient.
The following analysis of the water was recently read at one of the
scientific meetings of the Shropshire Natural History Society:—
Eleven cubic inches of the water contain about half a cubic inch of
carbonic acid, partly free and partly in a combined state, a quarter
of a cubic inch of atmospheric air, and a trace of sulphuretted
hydrogen.
Sixteen fluid ounces contain of—
Iodine and bromine, each a trace
Carbonate iron, about 0.7 grain
— lime and siliceous earth, each a trace
Anhydrous muriate magnesia, 8.8 grains
— — lime, 30 grains
— — soda, 121.3 grains. {200}
The importance of this spring is generally acknowledged, and it is matter
of regret that proper accommodations for the advantageous use of the
water have not been more effectually provided. A stone cistern, within a
little shed, is the only receptacle for the water, the refuse from which,
after being confined within a covered drain for a few yards, flows into
the brook, and has produced an artificial morass, whose surface (from the
deposition of iron oxyd) is covered with an ochery scum.
The care of the spring and baths is entrusted to the occupier of a
cottage on the spot.
On an elevated situation in an adjoining meadow stands the primitive
parish church of Sutton, a characteristic specimen of the little Norman
churches erected in villages. The west front is crowned with a cupola,
and displays a modern window, but those on the other sides of the fabric
are of the earliest kind, narrowing towards the exterior surface of the
wall. The town may be regained by different routes over the meadows,
which lead to
THE SUBURB OF COLEHAM,
situated on the southern banks of the river, where the Meole or Rea brook
joins the Severn. This was until the present century the lowest part of
the town, and consequently most liable to be inundated by floods; but of
late years the street has been raised about nine feet.
The township is populous, and consists of two districts, called Longden
Coleham and Meole Coleham from their respective thoroughfares to those
villages. In the latter direction is Trinity Church, and in the former
the extensive foundry of Mr. Hazledine, where the iron-work used in the
construction of that surprising proof of human ingenuity, the “Menai
Bridge,” was cast, and proved by an engine whose pressure was calculated
at thirty-seven tons.
TRADE AND MANUFACTURES.
Our town for more than three centuries possessed almost exclusively the
trade with Wales in a coarse kind of cloth called Welsh webs, which were
brought from Merionethshire and Montgomeryshire to a market held here
weekly. In reference to this, Camden, in his “Britannia,” published in
1586, writes of Shrewsbury—“It is a fine city, well inhabited, and of
good commerce; and by the industry of the citizens and their cloth
manufacture and their trade with the Welsh, is very rich, for hither the
Welsh commodities are brought as to the common mart.”
The termination of this branch of commerce is an event of too much
importance to be passed over. It is thus graphically alluded to by
Messrs. Owen and Blakeway: “Every Thursday the central parts of the town
were all life and bustle; troops of hardy ponies, each with a halter of
twisted straw, and laden with two bales of cloth, poured into the
Market-place in the morning, driven by stout Welshmen in their country
coats of blue cloth and striped linsey waistcoats.”
At two o’clock the drapers, with their clerks and shearmen, assembled
under the Market-house, and proceeded up stairs (according to ancient
usage) in seniority. The market being over, drays were seen in all
directions conveying the cloths to the several warehouses, and more than
six hundred pieces of web have been sold in a day. The whole was a ready
money business; and as the Welshmen left much of their cash behind them
in exchange for malt, groceries, and other shop goods, the loss of such a
trade to the town may be easily conceived. This took place about the
year 1795, and was occasioned by individuals (not members of the
Shrewsbury fraternity of drapers) travelling into those parts where the
goods were made, from which the manufacturers soon learnt that they might
find a mart for their goods at home without the trouble and expence of a
journey to the walls of Amwythig. In March, 1803, the company
relinquished the great room over the market-hall, where they had for
nearly two centuries transacted their business, and though much traffic
in flannels was subsequently carried on in the town, the total extinction
of this branch of our local commerce is fast approaching, from the market
having diverged to Welshpool, Newtown, and Llanidloes, where the
advantages of machinery are now substituted for manual labour in its
manufacture.
The cessation of the woollen market in this town has been ascribed to the
improvement of the roads in Wales, which opened a more free communication
to the interlopers of the Drapers’ company; and this again afforded some
compensation to the town for the loss of this branch of its trade. For
if Shrewsbury was no longer the emporium of North Wales, it was becoming
the centre of communication between London and Dublin; and the
agriculture of the neighbourhood and the trade of the town received a new
impulse from the vast increase of posting and stage coaches, but far
inadequate to the advantage which it derived from its trade in Welsh
woollens and the weekly visits of the Cambrian farmers.
That Shrewsbury, however, may reap the full benefit of its central
situation as the great thoroughfare from whence all the roads into North
Wales diverge, and being also the general market of the surrounding
country, acknowledged to be one of the finest agricultural districts in
the kingdom, it is highly expedient that our town should possess the
advantage of a RAILWAY communicating with the great lines to Birmingham,
London, Liverpool, &c.
Prospectuses have been issued showing the eligibility of the plan, and
the position in which the trade and general intercourse of the town will
be placed if unprovided with those facilities of cheap and expeditious
conveyance enjoyed by other large towns; and when it is considered that a
great portion of the provisions which supply the thickly-populated
neighbourhoods of Wolverhampton, Bilston, Birmingham, &c. are purchased
at our weekly markets and monthly fairs, and the deficient and expensive
means of transit on this line, a Railway would produce incalculable
benefit to the town by an increased traffic, and thereby contribute to
reinstate it in that important situation which it once held as THE
EMPORIUM OF NORTH WALES.
The chief manufactories at present are the extensive concern of Messrs.
Marshall for thread and linen yarns, three iron foundries, and Messrs.
Jones and Pidgeon’s for tobacco and snuff. The vicinity being a good
barley country, the malting business is carried on to a considerable
extent, and divided among sixty maltsters. Glass-staining has been
brought to the highest state of perfection in this town, completely
disproving assertions made some few years since that the powers of this
ancient science had then extended almost beyond the hope of eventual
excellence. The gothic chain, however, which for so long a period had
confined the mystery of this beautiful art, once, indeed, considered as
entirely lost, has been effectively broken by our townsman, Mr. D. Evans,
of whose productions our churches and many other ecclesiastical buildings
and noblemen’s mansions in different parts of the kingdom afford
specimens, contending in effect with some of the finest works of the
ancient masters.
Among the _delicacies_ for which our town is so deservedly celebrated may
be mentioned a most delicious CAKE, {204} of which but few strangers in
passing through fail to partake, especially if they have read the
encomium of the poet Shenstone:
“For here each season do these cakes abide,
Whose honoured names th’ inventive city own,
Rend’ring through Britain’s isle Salopia’s praises known.”
SHREWSBURY CAKES appear to have been presented to distinguished
personages on their visit to this town as early as the reign of
Elizabeth; and when their Royal Highnesses the Duchess of Kent and the
Princess Victoria arrived here in 1832, they were graciously pleased to
accept a box of them from the Mayor.
THE SIMNEL made here is much admired, and great quantities of this kind
of cake are prepared about the season of Christmas and Lent. The word is
supposed to have been derived from the Latin _simila_, signifying fine
flour; but the common tradition fixes its origin to a dispute between a
man named “Simon” and his wife “Nell.” One of them was desirous that the
plum pudding should be baked, while the other insisted that it should be
boiled: neither party being disposed to yield, it was therefore first
boiled and afterwards baked (the processes that it now undergoes), and
thus produced Sim-nell. The exterior crust, or shell (enclosing a
compound of fruit) is hard, and deeply tinged with saffron.
THE SHREWSBURY BRAWN is unrivalled, and has lately been patronised by His
Majesty William the Fourth. Brawn is a Christmas dish of great
antiquity, and may be found in most of the ancient bills of fare for
coronations and other great feasts. “Brawn, mustard, and malmsey” were
directed for breakfast during the reign of Elizabeth; and Dugdale, in his
account of the Inner Temple Revels, states the same directions for that
society. It is prepared from the flesh of boars fattened for the
purpose.
SHREWSBURY ALE has been commended from a remote period. _Iolo Goch_, the
bard of Owen Glendower, eulogises the profusion with which “Cwrw
Amwythig,” or Shrewsbury Ale, was dispensed in the mansion of his hero at
Sycarth, which he seems to have visited previously to the insurrection of
1400.
In the last century the properties of this beverage were thus extolled:—
“Hops, Water, and Barley, are here of the best,
Your March and October can well stand the test;
The body is plump, and the visage ne’er pale,
That imbibes, or is painted, with _Shrewsbury Ale_.”
MARKETS.
The market days are Wednesdays and Saturdays. The former is small, but
that on the latter day is well attended and abundantly supplied. In
fact, few towns enjoy the advantage of a better or cheaper supply of
meat, poultry, butter, vegetables, fruit, &c. But it must be confessed
that many places of far less importance than the capital of Shropshire
possess more suitable accommodations befitting the ample produce brought
from the surrounding districts to its markets.
The space allotted for the sale of vegetables is in the spacious square
opposite the County Hall, commonly called the “Green Market;” that for
poultry, eggs, &c. on Pride Hill and in the Butter Cross. The shambles
for butchers’ meat is in a street called “the Double Butcher Row;” and in
Fish-street, near St. Julian’s church, are sheds and stands for the
country butchers. The corn mart is held under the old market house.
THE FAIRS.
The fair for the sale of horses, cattle, butter, cheese, &c. is held on
the second Wednesday in every month; and that for sheep and pigs on the
preceding day. It has long been in contemplation to form a proper
“Smithfield” for cattle, &c. which are now disposed of in the streets,
much to the annoyance of passengers. The wool fairs are in July and
August.
THE SEVERN.
This beautiful stream, the queen of rivers,—famed in British story and
noticed by classic historians,—the theme of poets and the admiration of
tourists, is next in importance to the Thames.
It rises in Plinlimmon mountain, Montgomeryshire, and pursues its course
through that county, receiving in its meanderings numberless tributary
streams, and presenting to proud Salopia the richest variety of
picturesque scenery. After winding sixty or seventy miles through the
centre of Shropshire, passing Worcester, &c. it at length becomes “a
mighty river, potent, large,” and empties itself into the Bristol
Channel, fifty miles below Gloucester.
THE NAVIGATION OF THE RIVER
is free for barges from thirty to eighty tons burden, during the whole of
its course throughout Shropshire, which are towed up the stream by horses
belonging to a company; but the navigation is liable to interruption from
high and rapid floods in winter, and occasional want of depth of water in
summer.
THE ENVIRONS OF SHREWSBURY
Present an agreeable variety of pleasant drives and interesting walks,
unfolding from most points some changing feature of landscape scenery,
insulated, or grouped in picturesque masses, and interspersed with lofty
hills, which afford an imposing back-ground to the town, producing a
succession of rich and varied prospects calculated to interest the lover
of nature, while the artist, the antiquary, the botanist, or the
geologist, may find an ample field for the cultivation of their
respective pursuits.
The limited plan of the present work will only admit of a very brief
notice of some of those objects that might claim the attention of the
enquiring stranger, or present themselves in the course of a drive.
BATTLEFIELD,
Three miles N.E. by N. of Shrewsbury. Perhaps few events, so recent and
of such importance in the annals of our country, have left so few local
traditions to awaken the dream of ancient chivalry as the Battle of
Shrewsbury.
The site of this momentous conflict for the crown of England is no longer
unenclosed, but seems thriving with the culture of centuries of peace.
Some armour and military weapons occasionally turned up remind us of the
event, or, but for the Church piously founded by King Henry the Fourth,
in commemoration of his victory over Hotspur, Douglas, Worcester, and the
rebel army, we might rejoice that the breath of tranquillity has hushed
the tale of death.
The many associations, however, connected with this event, are not easily
banished from the mind during a visit to this spot, particularly when it
is considered that it afforded matter for the classic pen of Shakspeare.
BATTLEFIELD CHURCH,
According to the foundation of King Henry the Fourth, consisted of five
secular canons, and among other endowments possessed the churches of St.
Michael within the Castle of Shrewsbury, and also St. Julian’s, in the
same town. The clear annual revenues of the college at the dissolution
being £54. 1s. 10d. as stated by Tanner.
[Picture: Battlefield Church]
The fabric, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, stands in the centre of a
pasture field, and consists of a nave, chancel, and finely proportioned
tower, crowned with eight pinnacles and a richly decorated frieze and
parapet. The choral division, from the style of the windows, was
undoubtedly erected in the time of the founder, and the western portion
under the auspices of the Very Reverend Adam Grafton, Dean of the
Collegiate Church of St. Mary, Shrewsbury, Archdeacon of Salop, &c. &c. a
person of great eminence in his day, and who possessed much architectural
taste. His name is inscribed on the east side of the tower as warden of
the college in 1504. Length of the church, including the tower, 94 feet.
The roof of the nave and chancel having fallen in from decay early in the
last century, the latter was restored and supported by four doric
pillars. The interior is neat.
In the south wall is the piscina and the sedilia for the officiating
priests. In one of these is a curious wooden figure, called “Our Lady of
Pity.” It represents the Virgin seated and bearing on her knees a dead
Christ.
The eastern window is of five divisions, and contains some remains of the
stained glass with which this church was once enriched. The other
portion having been taken down during a repair of the fabric some years
since, was either lost or destroyed, through the negligence of the person
to whom it was entrusted.
The subjects comprised a history of the death of John the Baptist, with
various portraits of the knights who fell on the King’s side in the
battle at this memorable place. The crowned heads of King Henry the
Fourth and his Queen, the portraits of a bishop or abbot, and the head of
John the Baptist in a charger, may yet be distinguished, and are
tastefully pencilled. The red and yellow colours throughout are
particularly vivid. A beautiful border of foliage, with a mutilated
inscription, is at the base of the window.
At the east end of the north wall is a handsome florid gothic monument to
the memory of the late John Corbet, Esq. of Sundorne, who died in 1817.
The basement is after the model of an ancient altar tomb, from whence
rises five panelled buttresses with mouldings supporting the canopy,
which consists of four pointed ogee arches crocketed and crowned with
finials. The interior is a richly groined vault, and at the angles are
small turrets. The whole is beautifully worked in grained free-stone
from the neighbouring quarry of Grinshill.
The nave of the church is roofless: on each side are three elegant
mullioned windows, with tracery of different devices. In the walls are
corbels formed into grotesque heads, on which rested the timbers that
supported the roof.
The shaft of the ancient font (sunk in the ground) stands at the
north-east angle of the pointed arch which separates the nave from the
tower. The second floor of the tower is singularly furnished with a
fire-place, having a chimney formed within the thickness of the wall and
opening outside beneath the belfry window.
A tabernacled niche above the chancel window contains the crowned statue
of Henry the Fourth: the right hand once sustained a sword, and on the
same side also hangs the scabbard.
The college stood at the east end of the church, the moat which
surrounded it being still visible. Near this part is a field called the
“King’s Croft,” in which were placed a portion of the royal army. The
troops of Hotspur appear to have been chiefly stationed on the north
side.
On the south side of the church is a small cemetery, in which is
deposited the remains of the late Rev. Edward Williams, M.A. who for
nearly half a century was the Minister of this parish—loved and honoured
by his flock as a spiritual father, and the remembrance of whose virtues
and christian instruction still lingers like a lovely twilight. He died
January 3d, 1833, aged 70 years. {212}
GRINSHILL
Is four miles distant from hence. The village is picturesquely
sequestered beneath the extensive stone quarries, of which great use has
been made in the bridges, churches, and public buildings of Salop. About
the year 1630 a large stone building was erected at this place for the
reception of the scholars under instruction at the Royal Free Grammar
School during the time any contagious disorder might prevail in the town.
It is now used as a private classical and commercial school.
HAWKSTONE,
Being six miles further in this direction, is consequently beyond the
prescribed limit of my pen. I cannot forbear, however, to remark that
the scenery in the park is truly grand, and the objects which meet the
eye are varied and interesting, consisting of a succession of hills and
dales, rocks and caverns, connected together in a comparatively small
space. The walks are twelve miles round, and the obelisk erected on the
terrace of the park commands a prospect one hundred miles in diameter.
Amid this beautiful natural scene, the hand of art has introduced many
interesting features calculated to interrupt for an interval the
associations of the mind, that it might return with renewed vigour and
fresh delight to the enjoyment of the more exalted feast of contemplative
wonder, which nature has so lavishly bestowed on this elysian spot. The
noble proprietor kindly permits visitors to gratify themselves with a
walk over the grounds.
HAUGHMOND ABBEY,
Three miles north-east of the town, is approached from the Old Heath, by
a road full of picturesque beauty. The vale is watered by the Severn,
while swelling hills fill up the distance.
This monastery was founded in the year 1100 by William Fitz Alan, for
canons regular of St. Augustine, and is situated on the side of a gentle
eminence. The ruins form a most imposing object, and are of sufficient
consequence to attract the steps of the pedestrian. Of the Abbey church
few remains exist. The door which opened into the cloister is an elegant
specimen of anglo-norman architecture.
THE CHAPTER HOUSE is almost in a perfect state of preservation: the front
parallel with the cloister consists of a fine entrance through a circular
arch, with a window in the same style on each side, divided into small
lights. The shafts of these arches have canopied niches containing
mutilated statues; the angel Gabriel, St. Catharine, and St. John may yet
be distinguished.
THE ABBOTT’S LODGING is in part standing, being beyond the cloister and
refectory southward. There is likewise the shell of a noble hall, having
very early mullioned windows, and a very large one at the west end, the
tracery of which is destroyed. At the extremity of this was the great
chamber, lighted by a beautiful bow window (probably a later addition),
and divided into an upper and lower story.
On the north side of the Chapter House are two monumental stones: the
largest indicates the death of John Fitz Alan, Lord of Clun,
great-grandson of William, the founder of the monastery, and the least
that of his wife Isabel, daughter of Roger Mortimer, Lord of Wigmore.
The revenues of this Abbey at the dissolution were, according to Speed,
£294. 12s. 9d. The buildings were sold, and converted into a spacious
mansion. Haughmond demesne comprises about 1100 acres, within which is
situated the castellated MANSION OF SUNDORNE, the property of Mrs.
Corbet.
South-east, clothed with masses of woody verdure, is
HAUGHMOND HILL,
the etymology of which is derived from _haut mont_, the high mount. An
easy ascent from the abbey leads to the summit, from whence is a rich
panoramic prospect over a portion of the fertile vale of Shropshire, with
the lofty steeples of its ancient capital, and the blue mountains of
Cambria in the distance.
A castellated turret is erected on a steep crag of the hill, down which
the Scottish Earl Douglas leaped with his horse, on being closely pursued
after his escape from the Battle of Shrewsbury, and received a severe
injury. He was taken prisoner, but the king, in admiration of his
valour, set him at liberty.
At the foot of the hill is
THE VILLAGE OF UFFINGTON,
which is delightfully situated, and affords many rural beauties. Here
for a time the lover of nature may enjoy that calm delight which moves
the soul to contemplation; and whilst the eye has been charmed with the
prospect enjoyed from the summit of the adjoining eminence, the heart
seems hushed to the noise of a populous town, and a feeling of
tranquillity imperceptibly steals upon the mind, for which a cause can
scarcely be assigned.
Parties from the town are often tempted by the beauty of the situation to
make this place a holiday retreat, whose enjoyment is enhanced by the
accommodations of a good inn, attached to which, above the banks of the
Severn, is a pleasant bowling green.
The church, overshaded by two venerable yews, possesses a primitive
simplicity, quite in character with the village.
THE VILLAGE OF ALBRIGHTON,
distant three miles N.E. of the town on the Chester road, is a township
in the parish of St. Mary, Shrewsbury. The church, a small humble
structure, has been so effectually repaired by the modern goths with red
stone and brick, that no reasonable conjecture can now be formed as to
the period of its erection. A wooden loft issues from the west end, and
inside the building is a curious ancient font, that will admit of total
immersion, which has no doubt stood here for several centuries.
The fine old mansion near the church was formerly the residence of the
ancient family of Ireland, who purchased this manor {215} on the
dissolution of Shrewsbury Abbey.
A bridle road across a field leads to Albright Hussey and Battlefield.
The former was the moated mansion of the Husseys, Barkers, and Corbets,
but is now converted into a farm house. Here was a chapel, dedicated to
Saint John the Baptist, as appears by the grant of the land on which
Battlefield church stands from Henry IV. to Roger Ive, of Leaton, who is
there described as rector of the chapel of St. John the Baptist at
Albright Hussey, and which chapel was by the said grant for ever annexed
to the collegiate church of Battlefield; and Richard Hussey and his heirs
were to be perpetual patrons of the same. The only vestige of the chapel
is an old arch in a barn called the “chapel barn.”
THE VILLAGE OF MEOLE,
otherwise Meole Brace, is one mile south of the town. {216} The church
stands on a little knoll above the Rea brook, and was erected on the site
of an ancient edifice in the year 1800. It is a plain cruciform
building, with a tower rising from the roof at the west end.
From this place many agreeable walks branch off in the direction of
Kingsland, Sutton, and the Sharpstones. Near the latter place, at
Bayston Hill, is an earthwork of an irregular form, which seems to have
been surrounded on all sides but the east by two fosses, the abrupt
formation of the ground in that direction rendering such a protection
unnecessary. The entrance was no doubt from the Stretton road at the
west. The _double_ entrenchment admits a probability that it belonged to
the Anglo-Saxons, but it is difficult to distinguish between their
encampments and those of the Danes, both forming their camps nearly alike
and on elevated spots. The present site possesses every advantage for a
military post of observation to the adjoining country. The residents in
the vicinity designate it by the common appellation of the “Buries,” and
which appears to have escaped the notice of former topographers.
Two miles beyond this spot is the pleasant
VILLAGE OF CONDOVER.
The church is a spacious building, displaying examples of early Norman
architecture. It contains several handsome monuments in memory of the
ancient family of Owen, among which one from the chisel of Roubiliac is
considered a remarkably fine production. The adjoining mansion, a most
interesting specimen of the Elizabethan style of building, was erected by
Sir Thomas Owen, Lord Chief Justice of the Court of Common Pleas, who
died in 1598. Within the hall is the finest collection of paintings in
the county. This village was the birth-place of Richard Tarlton, the
earliest English comedian of celebrity, who for his surprisingly pleasant
extemporaneous wit, as an actor and jester, was the wonder of his time.
Fuller states, that “when Queen Elizabeth was serious and out of good
humour, he could undumpish her at his pleasure.” After a free and
eccentric life, it is said he died penitent in 1588.
PITCHFORD,
six miles south-east of the town, takes its name from a kind of mineral
pitch, which exudes out of a red sand stone, from which an oil is
extracted called British oil. A similar substance is also found at this
place, floating on a spring of water. Pitchford Hall is a beautiful
specimen of the half-timbered mansion erected during the sixteenth
century, and is the property of the Right Hon. the Earl of Liverpool, a
descendant maternally of the Ottley family, one of whom purchased the
estate in 1473.
The church, erected in the reign of Henry I. is a specimen of the lesser
Anglo-Norman edifices erected in villages. Its foundation throws some
light on the formation of our parochial establishments and the nature of
tithes.
It appears that previously to its erection the inhabitants of the
lordship went to some of the surrounding churches to hear divine service
and receive the sacraments, and gave their tithes where they chose. Many
of them contributed their tithes to the dean and chapter of St. Chad, in
Salop, on condition that they found a chaplain and clerk, who should
perform service three times a week, and daily visit the sick and baptize
infants; but these duties being much neglected, one Ralph lord of
Pitchford, moved by “charity and zeal,” built a church at his own
expence, and formed a certain district as the boundary of the parish.
At the distance of somewhat more than a mile is
ACTON BURNELL.
The remains of the ancient castle, founded by Robert Burnell, Bishop of
Bath and Wells, consist of a large building, with a square tower at each
angle. To this place the parliament of Shrewsbury adjourned in 1283,
where were passed (and received the royal assent) certain legislative
regulations, and amongst these the act touching merchant debtors, called
“Statutum de Mercatoribus,” designated likewise the Statute of Acton
Burnell. The church is cruciform, and in the pointed style of the
fourteenth century, having a wooden tower in the centre. Near this
village is the seat of Sir Edward Joseph Smythe, Bart. and the grounds of
the park are beautiful and extensive.
THE VILLAGE OF ATCHAM,
Three miles and a half east of the town, is delightfully seated on the
banks of the Severn, over which there is a handsome bridge of seven
arches, designed by Mr. Gwyn, a native of Shrewsbury.
The etymology of the place seems to be derived from _Eatta_, a Saxon
saint to whom the parish church is dedicated. It was anciently called
Ettingeham and Attingesham. In the Saxon period it belonged to the
college of St. Alkmund, Shrewsbury; and when that church was annexed to
Lilleshull Abbey, the advowson of Atcham made part of the transfer.
The present edifice consists of a nave without aisles; the predominant
styles of the windows may be attributed to the fifteenth century; some of
them are decorated with stained glass. The interior contains monuments
belonging to the family of Burton, of Longner, removed hither on the fall
of St. Chad’s church, Salop {219}
The basement of the tower is early Norman, and flanked with broad shallow
buttresses. The portal at the west is a deeply recessed round arch,
resting on five slender pillars on each side; above is an early lancet
window, over which is another of smaller dimensions, bisected by a short
pillar into narrow lights. The superstructure of the tower (like many
others in the vicinity) is of the sixteenth century, and was once crowned
with eight pinnacles, the remains of which are now only visible above the
frieze of the battlements.
The village is remarkable as being the birth-place of Ordericus, the
earliest Salopian historian. He was the son of Odelerius Constantius, of
Orleans, a chief councillor to Roger de Montgomery, born (as he informs
us) Feb. 16, 1075, “and on the Easter Sunday following was baptised by
Ordericus the priest at Ettingesham, in the church of St. Eatta the
Confessor,” and received the rudiments of his education under Siward the
priest, in the little church of St. Peter, Shrewsbury, on the site of
which the stately Benedictine abbey was afterwards built. Ordericus’s
great work is entitled an “Ecclesiastical History,” but is more properly
a record of the events of his own time.
Atcham once had the privilege of a fair, and the inhabitants were styled
burgesses.
Opposite the inn, a pleasant drive leads through the village of
Uffington, by which Shrewsbury may be regained. Continuing our course
for half a mile on the London road, we pass over TERN BRIDGE, below which
the river Tern fells into the Severn. On the left, ATTINGHAM HALL, the
elegant mansion of the Right Hon. Lord Berwick, with its lofty portico,
forms a bold and imposing object, and its beautiful situation near the
confluence of the rivers Tern and Severn, imparts an additional charm to
the surrounding scenery. To the right is
WROXETER.
This village was the metropolis of the _Cornavii_, a tribe of Britons
settled in Shropshire and some of the adjoining counties at the period
when Julius Cæsar first invaded this island. On the subjugation of the
Britons this place became the flourishing Roman station of
Uriconium,—Wriconium, synonymous with the adjoining Wrekin,
{221}—subsequently Wrekincester, and by contraction Wroxeter.
It is situated on a gentle eminence above the Severn, possessing those
advantages which the Romans generally kept in view, viz. dryness of soil,
extensive prospect, and the protection of a river. From the almost
impenetrable obscurity in which its early history is involved, no
adequate idea can now be formed of the pristine state of this interesting
place.
The town was undoubtedly defended by a wall and ditch, the boundaries of
which are still to be traced throughout a circumference of three miles.
According to the best writers, we find that the Romans entirely quitted
Britain about the middle of the fifth century, on which the Britons
continued to occupy this place (deserted by their former masters) until
they were ejected from it by the superior force of the Saxons sometime in
the following century, and obliged to find a retreat among “the alders
and willows which hid the foot and the thickets which crowned the summit
of the peninsular knoll, now covered by the capital of Shropshire.”
How long the fugitives remained at Caer Pengwern unmolested it is now in
vain to enquire, but this appears certain, that they were soon followed
thither by the unsparing Saxons, and compelled to seek another refuge in
the mountain fastnesses of Wales.
There can be no doubt but the fall of Wroxeter was, as Leland asserts,
“the cause of the erection of Shrewsbury;” and from the blackness of the
soil in some parts its destruction seems to have been by fire; many of
the coins also, and other remains discovered here, exhibit marks of their
having been subjected to that element: in fact, the savage ferocity of
the Saxon conquerors in their warfare, together with their ascendancy
over the Britons, was so determinate and effectual in the demolition of
those stations which they held, that little surprise need be excited so
few vestiges remain of the Roman provinces in this kingdom, or of the
many works of art which that nation doubtless left on their departure.
The Saxons on their invasion wielded fire and sword unsparingly. It was
their practice, on gaining possession of a town or city, immediately to
level it with the ground; and it is recorded, that one of these
triumphant barbarians boasted that in three days after he has galloped
his horse without stumbling over the spot on which the captured station
stood.
Wroxeter will be regarded by the antiquary with curious attention, as
affording matter of much investigation: indeed it is impossible, even in
imagination, to look upon its fruitful fields, teeming in the rich
luxuriance of culture,—once covered with a flourishing Roman town,—now
presenting only the ruined remnant of a wall, without sensibly feeling
the instability of human greatness, and exclaiming with Cowper—
We turn to dust, and all our mightiest works
Die too. The deep foundations that we lay,
Time ploughs them up, and not a trace remains.
We build with what we call eternal rock:—
A distant age asks where the fabric stood;
And in the dust, sifted and search’d in vain,
The undiscoverable secret sleeps.
The ruined wall still remaining is about 70 feet long and 28 feet high,
and is composed of layers of rough stones and large flat tiles at
alternate distances. It is arched, and the interior thickness is formed
with rubble and small pebbles thrown in with the cement or mortar, which
is become harder than stone. This venerable relic is thought to have
been a portion of the fortification of the town. Other conjectures are,
that it might have been connected with the Prætorium, or have been part
of a bath, which was discovered at no great distance from it; but after a
lapse probably of more than 1600 years, and where evidence is wanting to
guide us, its original purpose must remain in uncertainty.
Tesselated pavements, sepulchral stones with inscriptions, urns,
skeletons in deep graves and encased in red clay, several moulds for
coining money, seals of different kinds, an Apollo (four inches in
length) elegantly cast in lead, with other figures, and many curious and
interesting remains of Roman manufacture, have been discovered whilst
excavating on this site. A stone altar, found near the vicarage in 1824,
is thus inscribed—
BONO REI
PVBLICAE
NATVS.
Great quantities of copper coins, and many of gold and silver, are
constantly turned up by the plough. The copper coins are chiefly of the
lower empire.
The town was situated on the line of the Watling Street road, in the
direction towards Stretton. In the ford across the Severn the
foundations of a bridge may be discerned at low water.
Near this spot a discovery was made at the end of the last century, which
no doubt denoted the burial-place of some family of distinction resident
at this colony. It consisted of an enclosure of large stones a little
below the surface of the ground, within which were deposited three large
urns composed of a beautiful transparent green glass, each having one
handle elegantly ribbed, and severally containing burnt bones and a glass
lachrymatory. Some earthen urns, an earthen lamp, and a few Roman coins,
were also found at the same place, the whole being covered with large
flat stones.
The village church, on the accession of Henry II. was granted to the
canons of Haghmond Abbey, and is an edifice deserving of attention,
displaying in its construction several specimens of architecture between
the earliest Anglo-Norman and the incongruous reparations of the last
century. The building consists of a nave and chancel; in the latter is a
curious doorway, and the former seems to have had originally a south
aisle. The tower was probably erected in the reign of Henry the Eighth.
In the church are three handsome altar tombs, bearing full-length cumbent
effigies of Lord Chief Justice Bromley, who died May 15, 1555, and Isabel
his wife; Sir Richarde Newporte, Knyghte (Queen’s Counsel in the Marches
of Wales), and Margaret his wife, only daughter of the Lord Chief
Justice; and John Berker, of Haghmond Abbey, Esq. and Margaret his wife,
second daughter of Sir Francis Newport, Knt. who died in 1618.
In 1824 these were judiciously restored and beautified. In addition to
which there are mural monuments, with inscriptions, commemorative of
Francis, Viscount Newport and Earl of Bradford, who died Sept. 19, 1708;
also the Hon. Andrew Newport, his brother; and a tablet to the memory of
Andrew Newport, _utter_ barrister, who died in 1611.
The vicinity of Wroxeter affords a delightful display of pastoral
beauty,—the bright river, with every other requisite for the finest
landscape scenery.
Five miles distant is the famed Shropshire mountain,
THE WREKIN,
the proud monarch of the plain, whose bold arching head rises to the
altitude of upwards of 1300 feet. A pathway from the London road leads
through plantations to its summit, from whence the admirer of nature may
luxuriate in the enjoyment of a magnificent prospect, whilst he
contemplates all that variety of hill and dale, wood, rock and stream,
studded with mansions and villages, stretched like a map throughout a
circumference of nearly 400 miles.
This NATURAL HEART OF SHROPSHIRE forms a conspicuous feature in the
landscape from all parts of the surrounding country; while it is
universally regarded, from the king in his palace to the peasant in his
cottage, as the centre towards which the best wishes and affections of
the heart converge, in that well-known convivial sentiment which
possesses the advantage over other toasts,—in being old without age,
inasmuch as it is unchanged by time, and never out of place—
“ALL FRIENDS ROUND THE WREKIN.”
* * * * *
* * * * *
JOHN EDDOWES, PRINTER, SHREWSBURY.
ADDITIONS.
ST. MARY’S.—The patronage of this living has been vested by the Lord
Chancellor in the following Trustees:—The Lord Bishop of Lichfield, the
Viscount Clive, Sir A. V. Corbet, Bart. J. A. LLoyd, Esq. and R. A.
Slaney, Esq. The qualification for the Minister remains as before.
ABBEY CHURCH.—The font, supported upon the upper part of an ancient cross
(page 74), has been lately removed to St. Giles’s Church.
ST. GILES’S CHURCH.—Pews have been erected on the South side of this
edifice, to correspond with those on the North.
ST. GEORGE’S.—A district has lately been assigned to this church,
comprising the township of Frankwell.
COUNTY HALL.—Owing to a recent alteration in the arrangement of offices,
it will be necessary at page 115, line 13, to _dele_ to the left, and
read to the right; and, at line 15, for right read left; line 17, for
resting over, read towards High Street is an Entrance, &c.
ERRATA. {227}
Page 13, for SCOTT read DYER; p. 17, for Thomson read Cowper; p. 24, in
note, for opposite read towards; p. 47, l. 25, for munficence read
munificence; p. 58, l. 11, for surmounts read surrounds; p. 60, l. 13,
for carved read coved; p. 93, l. 27, for five read four; p. 99, for Henry
Edwards read Hugh Edwards; p. 127, for four read eight; p. 179, l. 15,
for Sir Philip read Sir Henry.
FOOTNOTES.
{10} Our ancestors petitioned the king for permission to convert the
monastery of Salop into “a college, or free school.”
{16} This was an essential characteristic of the castellated structure
of the Danes, although subsequently adopted by the Normans.
{18} The town had originally three principal gates, besides several
postern or smaller gates, and was from an early period encompassed with a
wall, strengthened by towers in those parts most liable to be attacked.
Within the last sixty years many parts of the walls have been built upon,
and the gates and towers, with one exception, fallen a prey, not so much
to the ruthless power of time, as to the less sparing enemy—modern
improvement.
{23} Mr. Heylin appears to have been connected with this town, having
previously founded a lectureship in St. Alkmond’s church, to which he
afterwards added the tithe of Coton. In 1630 he was at the expence of
printing the Welsh Bible in octavo, a form more suitable for domestic
reading than the two former folio editions.
{24} The site of St. Michael’s church cannot be satisfactorily stated.
Messrs. Owen and Blakeway consider that Speed’s map represents it as
standing near the river towards the area of the present county gaol; but
this must be a mistake, for Speed intended to shew the bastion tower of
the castle. The church being probably only a very small structure, and
designed by its founder (Roger de Montgomery) as a place of worship for
those who inhabited the keep, it doubtless stood, as its name implies,
WITHIN the walls (similar to the one at Ludlow Castle), and was taken
down about 1605, before Speed’s map was published. The present detached
part of St. Julian’s parish in the direction of Castle Foregate formed
its parochial boundary.
{26} Earl Hugh was slain by an arrow in Anglesea, in the month of July,
1098, and received sepulture seventeen days after in the cloisters of
this abbey. Twenty years ago, a plain stone coffin was discovered near
the south-west door of the present church, which probably enclosed his
remains.
{36} He was a gentleman of warm piety and extensive benevolence; as a
scholar and linguist he was scarcely surpassed by any of his
contemporaries. He meditated a History of Shropshire, which, had it been
completed, it is probable the world would have seen, from his diffusive
acquirements and general antiquarian knowledge, a very superior
topographical work.
{39} Page 25.
{44} About the close of the 12th century, companies of masons,
designers, or architects, as well as workmen, were incorporated under the
especial patronage of the Pope, and associated together as a fraternity
of free and accepted masons, under certain regulations and peculiar
privileges.
{48} This is now a principal entrance to the church; the jambs of the
door-way are in the debased style prevalent during the last century, and
the obtuse arch seems originally to have formed the head of a window.
{52} In 1831 was published Mr. Blakeway’s SHERIFFS OF SHROPSHIRE,
illustrated with their armorial bearings, and notices genealogical and
biographical of their families, edited with great judgment by a reverend
gentleman of this town, a particular friend of the deceased. It is
perhaps the first work in which what may be termed the genealogy and
biography of a county has been distinctly treated, and evinces in a high
degree the patient and diligent research of its talented author, whose
valuable life we have reason to deplore was not spared to publish a
History of the County of Salop, for which his talents and extensive local
knowledge rendered him so eminently qualified.
{63} These possessions were about 150 acres.
{82} A notice of the improvements in this church will be found in vol.
100, part II. of the Gent. Mag. communicated by the author of these
Memorials.
{101} The scholars, in grateful remembrance of the kindness of their
preceptor, presented him (on his taking leave of the School, June 7th,
1836,) with a massive silver candelabrum, of three hundred guineas value,
raised by their united contributions,—the subject a vine branch with
Genii pressing the fruit, and bearing an appropriate inscription; in
acknowledging which Dr. Butler said, under your future head master and
his able coadjutor (the Rev. G. I. Welldon), and my long-tried and
much-valued friends, the assistant masters, may you pursue your career
with the same success as those who have gone before you; and to my best
wishes for your welfare and happiness, let me add, as my last official
words, “FLOREAT SALOPIA!”
{103} Of the one hundred and twenty first-rate honours recorded here,
the present learned head master (Dr. Kennedy) claims more than
one-twelfth for his own individual share.
{106} The old liberties of the borough extended a few miles round
Shrewsbury. A large part of this ancient boundary, possessing a property
of the annual value of fifty thousand pounds, and which formerly used to
contribute to the rates levied in connexion with the town, is now taken
from the liberties and annexed to the county.
{107} A merchant guild is supposed to have been established as a
voluntary association as early as the year 1128; for, among other customs
granted by Henry III. there was one by which no person who was not a
member of the “merchant guild” could exercise merchandise in the borough
without the consent of the burgesses.
{110} A more extended account of this pageant, by the author of
“Memorials of Shrewsbury,” will be found in the Gentleman’s Magazine for
July, 1833.
{111} Mayor.
{114} The former courts were 44 ft. 9 in. by 31 ft.
{116} This structure was 111 feet by 51; its exterior feature was a bold
pediment, supported by four three-quarter columns of the Ionic order.
{149} Vide Hazlitt’s Literary Remains.
{151} An office instituted when preaching was not frequent, and granted
to the Minister of St. Mary’s in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
{162} On the visit of Charles the First to this venerable mansion,
Thomas Lyster (among other distinguished Shropshire loyalists) presented
that Prince with a purse of £500. His grandson, Richard Lyster, Esq.
represented this town and county in parliament for a period of forty-five
years, and was known among his countrymen by the familiar appellation of
‘THE SENATOR.’ The somewhat feudal cast of his establishment, and most
ample scale of ancient English hospitality, are pleasingly recorded in
the “Sheriffs of Shropshire.”
{176} The sloping bank above this friary was given to and occupied by
the Monks of Shrewsbury Abbey, as a VINEYARD, as early as the reign of
Henry the Third. Its situation on the northern side of the river,
inclining southward and open to the east, renders it well adapted to the
purpose.
{179} This ferry leads to a walk which commands a bold view of the
town, and communicates with the Abbey-foregate. It conducts also to the
Underdale Tea Gardens—a quiet rural retreat.
{186} The town is supplied with most excellent water for drinking from a
spring called Broadwell, which rises near Kingsland, and is conveyed by
pipes under the river to a reservoir in one of the lodges at the
principal entrance to the Quarry Walk, being conducted from thence to
conduits placed in different parts of the town for the convenience of the
inhabitants.
{187} A detail of the Admiral’s splendid services will be found in the
“Biographia Britannica,” and other similar works.
{188} To the left of the turnpike is the Baschurch road, on which, at
the distance of one mile, are the beautiful Gates leading to Berwick
House; a short distance beyond is the neat structure of Berwick Chapel,
re-built at the close of the 17th century.—The town may be regained by a
walk through Almond Park, rich in sylvan beauty.
{190} In 1604 a great plague began in Salop, on the 2d of June, and
raged until April following, in which time 657 persons had died of it in
the several parishes, and the streets were so little frequented as to be
covered with grass. The two bailiffs died.—MS. Chronicle.
{196} Vide page 6.
{200} Pure muriate of soda does not contain any water in its
crystallized state except what lodges in the interstices of the crystals,
therefore the weight of that, as it exists in the water, would not exceed
the weight above given; 30 grains muriate of lime indicate 51 grains
crystallized muriate, 8.81 grains muriate magnesia indicate 15½ grains.
{204} “Why, brother Wilful of Salop, you may be as short as a SHREWSBURY
CAKE, if you please.”—Way of the World, 1735, by W. Congreve.
{212} Mr. Williams possessed acquirements of no ordinary description,
and was an accomplished scholar. He had studied much of botany, was an
excellent draughtsman, and in early life devoted considerable attention
to the study of antiquities, particularly those connected with his native
county. His collection of materials relating to the History of
Shropshire were most extensive, and although he did not favour the world
with any publication shewing the result of his researches, he has,
nevertheless, left behind a surprising proof of his perseverance in
original drawings of all the churches, parochial chapels, monastic
remains, castles, monuments, and tablets, in Shropshire, besides sketches
of most of the mansions of the nobility and gentry in the same county.
{215} Etbrighton, a Saxon manor in Domesday.
{216} Mr. Thomas Barker, author of a work on angling, was born at this
village. From the singular vein of humour which runs through his book,
he appears to have been a good-humoured gossiping old man. In the
dedication he states, “I have written no more but my own experience and
practice, and have set forth the true ground of angling, which I have
been gathering these three-score years; having spent many pounds in the
gaining of it, as is well known in the place where I was born and
educated, which is Bracemeale, in the liberty of Salop, being a freeman
and burgess of the same city.”—‘Barker’s Delight, or the Art of Angling,’
was published a few years after Izaak Walton’s Complete Angler (1659), to
which Mr. Barker appears to have contributed the greater part of what is
said on Fly Fishing.
{219} Longner, the ancient seat of the Burtons, is about one mile N.W.
of this village, and forms part of the parish of St. Chad. In 1558 it
was the residence of Edward Burton, Esq. a zealous protestant, who
expired suddenly with Joy on hearing of the accession of Queen Elizabeth.
His body was refused interment in the church of St. Chad by the popish
priest, owing to some stipulations made either in his will, or by the
zeal of his surviving friends, that the popish service should not be
celebrated over his remains, which were in consequence buried in his own
garden, over which a plain altar has been erected, with a quaint poetical
inscription.
{221} A great battle seems to have been fought near this hill; for in
1833 a quantity of spear heads and celts, formed of brass, or some other
composition of copper, and of rather elegant workmanship, were found near
the Wrekin Farm.
{227} The errata has been applied to this transcription.—DP.
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