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Title: Harold's Town and it's Vicinity - Waltham Abbey, Waltham Cross, Cheshunt, and High Beech, Epping Forest
Author: Bunting, Freeman
Language: English
As this book started as an ASCII text book there are no pictures available.


*** Start of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "Harold's Town and it's Vicinity - Waltham Abbey, Waltham Cross, Cheshunt, and High Beech, Epping Forest" ***


Transcribed from the 1905–6 Homeland Association Ltd. edition by David
Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org

                          [Picture: Book cover]

                  [Picture: The Abbey Church at Waltham]



                              Harold’s Town
                            And its Vicinity.


                 Waltham Abbey, Waltham Cross, Cheshunt,
                      and High Beech, Epping Forest.

                         A Handbook for Visitors,
                                    BY
                             FREEMAN BUNTING.

                     WITH PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS
                                    BY
                            J. A. C. BRANFILL.

                                * * * * *

  Published under the general editorship
  of PRESCOTT ROW, in co-operation with the
  URBAN DISTRICT COUNCILS OF WALTHAM, HOLY
  CROSS AND CHESHUNT, by The Homeland
  Association for the encouragement of Touring
  in Great Britain.

               Waltham Abbey: M. CUTHBERT, 13, Sun Street.
            ,,    ,,    WILLIAM PALLETT, jun., The Churchyard.
               Waltham Cross: P. W. MITCHELL, High Street.
                Cheshunt: AUG. J. HALL, 91, Turner’s Hill.
         London: THE HOMELAND ASSOCIATION, LTD., 22, Bride Lane,
                            Fleet Street, E.C.

_FIRST EDITION_, 1905–1906.

                                                    _All Rights Reserved_.



Ordnance Survey Map of the Country around Waltham Cross and Waltham
Abbey.


_Scale of One Inch to One Statute Mile_,

                              [Picture: Map]



EDITORIAL NOTE.


WITH a view to making future Editions of this Handbook as accurate and
comprehensive as possible, suggestions for its improvement are cordially
invited.  If sent to THE EDITOR, The Homeland Association, Association
House, 22, Bride Lane, Fleet Street, E.C., they will be gratefully
acknowledged.



COPYRIGHT.


This Book as a whole, with its Contents, both Literary and Pictorial, is
Copyrighted in Great Britain.



ADVERTISING.


LOCAL.—Terms for Advertising in future issues of the Waltham and Cheshunt
Handbook will be forwarded on application to the General Manager of the
Homeland Association, at the above address.

GENERAL.—Contracts for the insertion of Advertisements through the whole
series of Homeland Handbooks, nearly fifty volumes, circulating
throughout the country, can be arranged on application to the General
Manager.



_CONTENTS_.

                                                              PAGE
_Bibliography_                                                     4
_Prefatory Note_                                                   6
_Chapter_    _I.—Describes Waltham Abbey_                          9
    ,,       _II.—A Ramble to Epping Forest and High              31
             Beech_
    ,,       _III.—Describes Waltham Cross and Theobalds_         35
    ,,       _IV.—Describes Cheshunt and its                      44
             Surroundings_
_A Chronology of Waltham Abbey_                                   53



BIBLIOGRAPHY.


“The Foundation of Waltham Abbey.”  Rt. Rev. William Stubbs.

“History of the Abbey of Waltham.”  John Farmer.

“The Parish of Waltham Abbey.”  John Maynard.

“History of Waltham Abbey.”  W. Winters.

“History of Waltham Holy Cross.”  Rev. J. H. Stamp.

“The Norman Conquest.”  E. A. Freeman.

“Architecture and Early History of Waltham Abbey.”  E. A. Freeman.

“A History of Abbeys.”  Stevens.

“London and its Environs.”  Hunter.

“Circuit of London.”  Hughson.

“Church History of Britain.”  Thomas Fuller.

“Worthies of England.”  Thomas Fuller.

“Cheshunt in the Olden Time.”  Rev. A. Brown.

“Visitors’ Handbook to Cheshunt.”  W. Winters.

“The Family Memoirs of the Rev. W. Stukeley.”

“‘Gentleman’s Magazine’ Library.”  Vol. 17.  G. L. Gomme.

“British Topographer.”  Vol. 1.  R. Gough.

“History of Herts.”  Cussans.

“History of Herts.”  Salmon.

“History of Herts.”  Clutterbuck.



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

                           PLATES.
_The Abbey Church at Waltham_                   _Frontispiece_
                                                          PAGE
_The Abbey Gateway_                                         16
_The Eleanor Cross_                                         34
_The Parish Church_, _Cheshunt_                             48
                        ILLUSTRATIONS.
_Romeland_, _Waltham Abbey_                                 11
_Ancient Bridge_, _known as_ “_Harold’s                     15
Bridge_”
_Waltham One Hundred Years Ago_                             19
_The Interior of the Abbey Church_                          23
_The Home of Foxe_, _the Martyrologist_                     29
_The Eleanor Cross showing detail of                        36
carving_
_Theobalds_                                                 37
_Temple Bar_                                                39
_In the Village at Cheshunt_                                45
_Cheshunt Great House_                                      47

PREFATORY NOTE.


THIS little book is intended for the ordinary individual rather than the
earnest student or the ardent antiquary.  As I have attempted to
embellish the dry bones of history and to present the undoubted beauties
and charms of the corner of England that lies upon the Herts and Essex
border in a manner likely to interest the former, my effort will possibly
appear to the latter to have several shortcomings.

That part of the book dealing with Cheshunt has presented some
difficulty.  One day, perhaps, some industrious historian will prepare a
really good history of the ancient parish of Cheshunt, and utilise to the
best purpose the wealth of material that lies hidden away in the parish
chests.

To the Rev. J. H. Stamp, I am indebted for reading the proofs and for
some valuable information, as well as for his kind permission to use the
chronological data prepared by him.  To Mr. H. Collingwood Lee my thanks
are also due for his kind assistance.

                                                          FREEMAN BUNTING.

WHITE WEBBS, July, 1905.



The Publisher’s Address to the Reader.


THIS little volume forms one of the Homeland Handbooks, a series founded
in 1897, with a view of providing adequate information respecting special
localities and districts.  They are issued at popular prices, and contain
everything likely to interest the intelligent visitor regarding the
History, Traditions, Worthies, and Antiquities of the neighbourhoods with
which they deal.

In each case the books are written by a qualified Author, with special
local knowledge.

Other Volumes in the Series likely to interest the reader of this book
are as follows:—

                                                CLOTH.      PAPER.
Hertford, and the Country of Charles Lamb and   2/-         1/-
Izaak Walton
The City of St. Albans, its Abbey and its       2/6         1/-
Surroundings
Dunstable and its Surroundings                  2/-         1/-

            _A full list will be found on pages_ ii _and_ iii.

                                * * * * *

The Homeland Association for the Encouragement of Touring in Great
Britain, Association House, _22_, Bride Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.



‘DON’TS’ FOR PICNIC PARTIES.


THE Council of the Selborne Society urgently requests visitors to treat
the country they are visiting with the reverence due to natural beauty.

DON’T gather such quantities of wild flowers and ferns that before the
day is over you are obliged to throw them away on the roadside.  By such
gathering you injure the flora of the district, and you take away
pleasures from many people who like to see flowers and ferns growing in
their native haunts.

DON’T disturb the birds in their breeding season.

DON’T litter the places visited with waste papers or torn letters.

DON’T leave empty bottles and other débris of your picnic to vulgarise
the spots, the scenery of which you have been enjoying.



HAROLD’S TOWN AND ITS VICINITY.


                      WALTHAM ABBEY, WALTHAM CROSS,
                 CHESHUNT, AND HIGH BEECH, EPPING FOREST.

                                * * * * *



CHAPTER I.
WALTHAM ABBEY.


HAROLD’S TOWN!  We may well speak of Waltham Holy Cross in this way, for
the place virtually owes its foundation to the last representative of the
Saxon dynasty, and abounds in associations with the brave, pious, and
wise prince whose lordship, like that of his great predecessor, Alfred,
had so great an influence for good upon the social and political
institutions of our England, and who so nobly and bravely disputed the
claim to the throne with the Norman invader on the field of Senlac.  We
find a contemporary estimate of Earl Harold’s character in the historic
tract, _De Inventione Sanctæ Crucis_, the unknown author of which, who
was, however, a Waltham man, says: “His was the truest heart and the
wisest head and the strongest and gentlest hand in the land.”  And the
greatest historians of our own time have spoken in high, appreciative
terms of Harold’s work and influence.  How considerable, then, is the
interest to the traveller and student alike of the place with which the
life of Harold was so intimately associated.

Though within just over half an hour’s journey by rail from the
Metropolis, and but a crow flight of some thirteen miles therefrom, it
would be pretty safe to say that not one per cent. of the inhabitants of
the great city have made any sort of acquaintance with the beautiful old
minster of Waltham, which stands to-day for one of the finest examples of
Norman architecture, vying with Westminster Abbey in this respect, whilst
its history is, as old Thomas Fuller has observed, “the history of the
Church of England.”  And if this ancient pile represents so much
architecturally and ecclesiastically, it occupies no mean position among
those various influences that have gone to the making of English history.

Hither came, for one purpose and another, many of the royal heads of
England, from Harold, the founder, to Charles II.; dignitaries of the
Church, and potent ornaments of the State; while within the shadow of the
minster’s massy walls lived and laboured men who have moulded and
influenced the thoughts and lives of the people.  Henry I. and Matilda of
Scotland were visitors to the Abbey, the latter being a considerable
benefactress; Henry II. established the monastery here and richly endowed
it, he “loved Waltham entirely, and lay many times thereat.”  King John
came often to Waltham; Henry III. loved the Abbey for its beauty and
seclusion, and resorted thereto often for peace and retirement.  Edward
I. and his beloved wife Eleanor were frequently in residence here, and
when the body of the latter was brought from Grantham to London in 1290,
it rested for a night here, the mortal remains of the king himself
remaining in the Abbey, beside Harold’s tomb, for fifteen weeks, on their
way from Scotland to Westminster in 1307.  When Wat Tyler’s insurrection
placed Richard II. in jeopardy he sought the sanctuary of the ancient
pile.  Henry VIII., who was very fond of Waltham, had a private lodging
close by the Abbey, and was often the guest of the abbot.  Cranmer was
frequently resident at Waltham; John Foxe lived and wrote his “Book of
Martyrs” here; Thomas Tallis, father of our beautiful church music, was
organist at the Abbey; Thomas Fuller, author of the “Worthies of
England,” was incumbent of the Abbey Church; so also was Bishop Joseph
Hall, author of the “Contemplations”; Bishop George Hall was a native of
the town; and Izaak Walton, who so loved the “gentle Lea,” was here often
on a visit to a relative.

                   [Picture: Romeland.  Waltham Abbey]

The bustling train lands the visitor at Waltham Cross Station, in the
county of Herts, and one must proceed for about a mile on foot eastward
to attain the Abbey and town of Waltham Holy Cross, which lie in the
adjoining county of Essex.  But after the “mean things that are new” have
been passed, the way is pleasant.  The road is bordered on one side for a
goodly distance by the marshlands and crosses many times over the river
Lea, which, as old Fuller humorously observes, “not only parteth Herts
from Essex, but also seven times parteth from itself, and is crossed by
so many bridges.”  Beyond the waterside inn on the bridge that spans the
Lea navigation, and displays the comforting sign of the “Old English
Gentleman,” Highbridge Street is entered, and the old town opens out,
with the tower of the Abbey, but just restored to its original dignity of
design, closing in the view.  The principal entrance to the Royal
Gunpowder Factory lies just to the left here, and much that is
picturesque and quaint will strike an observant eye on the way.  The
diversity in character and style of the houses and shops, the
irregularity of their disposition, with their time-tinted exteriors, and
the bits of garden and splashes of verdant foliage, which break up the
line of bricks and mortar, timber and stucco, give the old street that
peculiar charm which is so often characteristic of an ancient town.


Romeland.


Just before the Abbey is reached, approached by a way that allows little
more room than is needful for a cart to pass, is an open square of very
old houses, a most picturesque corner of the old town, that bears the
somewhat curious appellation of Romeland. {12}  How and why the place
came to be so called it is not easy to determine; but the abbots of
Waltham, whose seat was at Copt Hall, had their London house on or
adjacent to a site in the parish of St. Mary-at-Hill, adjoining what is
now Billingsgate Market, which was also called Romeland.  To the rent of
this, as well as the market square at Waltham, the Pope laid claim, and
the latter was then known as Romescot or Peter’s Piece.  It is to this
circumstance, probably, that the place owes its name.

It was in the house of Master Cressy, a long-fronted structure, which
stands on the left of the entrance to Romeland, that, in 1533, Cranmer,
Fox, and Gardiner discussed the question of Henry’s divorce from
Katherine of Aragon.  Then it was that Cranmer “struck the keynote of the
Reformation,” by claiming “for the Word of God that supremacy which had
been usurped by the popes for centuries.”  Fuller refers to this as a
significant circumstance and says: “Thus did Waltham give Rome the first
deadly blow in England.”


A King’s Diversions.


Bluff King Hal was very partial to Waltham and enjoyed the hunting in the
forest.  He frequently stayed at his house in the Romeland, still
standing at the north-east corner.  There are many stories, often with
the “merry monarch” for a hero, connected with his patronage of Waltham.
One day he left his hunting companions and returned to Waltham in the
guise of one of his attendants, and, being invited to the abbot’s table,
ate heartily of the sirloin of beef placed before him, to the great
admiration of his host.  “Well fare thy heart,” the latter toasted his
guest, “here is a cup of sack, and remember the grace of thy master.  I
would willingly give one hundred crowns on condition that I could feed as
heartily on beef as thou dost!  Alas! my weak stomach will hardly digest
the wing of a small rabbit or chicken.”  The king pledged his host, and
thanked him; in due time he departed as secretly as he had come.  A
little while after, the abbot was suddenly arrested and conveyed to the
Tower, where he was kept for some days on bread and water.  Then a
sirloin of beef was set before him, of which he ate heartily.  The king
entered in the midst of the meal, and demanded of his prisoner payment of
the hundred crowns, which, when the abbot recognised the trap into which
he had fallen, he gladly paid.

On another occasion, when Henry was the guest of Sir Henry Colte, of
Nether Hall, Roydon, the latter provided a novel entertainment for his
royal guest.  It is related that the knight and his men waylaid the monks
on Waltham marsh one dark night, having been informed by spies that they
were on a visit to Cheshunt nunnery, and, catching them in a buck stall
(a trap used for deer) left them wallowing in the mire until dawn.  Then
the “knight of merry conceits” conducted his dejected captives to the
king, and presented them to his majesty as the splendid game he had been
able to secure.  King Harry burst into a loud fit of laughter, and
declared that, though he had “often seen sweeter, he had never viewed
fatter venison.”

The open space (Romeland), with its quaint high-gabled, stuccoed, and
red-brick houses, is a busy scene on Tuesdays, when the cattle market is
held here.  On the eastern side, abutting upon the Abbey church, the
tower of which comes charmingly into view over the house tops, is the
ancient corn mill, which was given to the Abbey by Maud, Queen of Henry
I., in 1108, in exchange for the site of Holy Trinity, Aldgate.  She also
restored to the Abbey certain lands, which had been alienated, known as
the Abbey fields, which stretch northward from here; and moreover
established two fairs for the town.

Having so far diverged from the direct road to the Abbey, we may well go
a little further, taking a narrow roadway that runs by the mill leading
to the Abbey fields.


The Abbey Gateway.


At the termination of half a dozen or so of old houses and cottages,
there comes into view a bridge over the mill stream, giving access to a
beautiful arch, or rather pair of arches, known as the Abbey Gateway.
What remains of this once important structure, which formed the main
entrance to the Abbey and the abbot’s house, consists of the front only
of the old gateway, and comprises two ancient pointed arches, with a
tower on the south side (the corresponding tower on the north has
disappeared).  At the spring of the main arch, on either side, are still
traceable the arms of Edward III. on a shield surmounted by an angel.
The gateway was originally approached by a drawbridge, and the porter’s
window in the tower which commanded this still exists.  The entrance to
the old monastic buildings was by a pointed doorway in the south wall,
which extends from the gate, now bricked up.  This handsome old gateway
also formed the entrance to the mansion erected by Sir Edward Denny, to
whom the abbot’s house was given by Elizabeth.  He was the grandson of
Sir Anthony Denny, Chamberlain to Henry VIII., to whom much of the
ecclesiastical property of Waltham was given after the Dissolution.  Sir
Edward Denny’s house, which was a large one in the characteristic
Elizabethan style (a central doorway and two projecting wings), is spoken
of by an old chronicler as being “beautiful to behold,” with a spacious
garden of a character “scarcely to be equalled by any private
gentleman’s.”

 [Picture: The Ancient bridge at Waltham Abbey, known as Harold’s Bridge.
                 A most interesting Architectural Relic]

Higher up the Corn mill stream, in the Abbey fields, and bordering on the
“pool,” is another beautiful remnant of very early architecture, probably
contemporary with the Abbey church, known as Harold’s Bridge.  Tradition
says that in early times this was the only passage across the stream, and
that not only Harold, but Tovi before him, used this bridge, when
proceeding into or from the royal forest of Waltham.  It is a most
interesting architectural relic.  There are still visible two of the five
beautiful ribs which originally adorned this fine arch.  Recently steps
were taken to preserve this interesting monument of antiquity by
restoring the stonework forming the base of the bridge.  The Abbey
farmhouse, with its picturesque Elizabethan front, which is said to have
formed the abbot’s stabling in mediæval times, stands to the north-east
of Harold’s Bridge.

                  [Picture: Waltham.  The Abbey Gateway]


The Abbey Church.


From the Abbey fields, the finest view of Harold’s noble minster is
obtained, and it is with feelings of pleasant anticipation that one
retraces one’s steps thereto, meditating on the way upon the many strange
and wondrous scenes that have been witnessed on the ground over which one
passes.  As the eye wanders over the beautiful lines and the massive,
age-stained walls of the ancient church, the mind is impressed with its
grandeur and its significance as a vast page of England’s story.

The Abbey church and town of Waltham Holy Cross alike owe their actual
foundation to Tovi the Proud, standard-bearer and chief counsellor to
Cnut, who, delighted by the fine opportunities for hunting which were
afforded by the number of deer running in the great forest of Waltham,
established a settlement here, and founded a convent.  Hither, also, Tovi
brought from his manor of Lutegarsbury (Montacute), in Somerset, a
miraculous crucifix, and set it up in the church.  The legend of this
Holy Cross, as told in the _De Inventione_ tract, and translated by
Lambarde, is a wonderfully interesting story.


The Legend of the Holy Cross.


It runs as follows: {17} “In the tyme that Kinge Cnut reigned in Ingland
theare lyved at a Place of the called comonly Lutegarsbyry, in French
Montague, a simple man by occupation a carpenter and by Office Sexton of
his parishe, to whom on a Night appeared a Vision of Christe Crucified
commaundinge him that as sone as Day brake he should goe to the parishe
priest and with him accompanied by his parishioners in solemne
processione to go up to the Toppe of the Hyll adjoyninge and to digge
wheare (if they would beforehand make theimselves by Confession,
Fastinge, and Praier worthy of suche a Revelacion) they should finde a
Crosse, the very sign of Christes passion.  This plaine Man, supposinge
it a fantastical Dreame, tooke at first no great Head thereof, save that,
he imparted it with his Wife who also thought it but an Illusion.
Wherefore the Image appeared againe, and so griped him by the Hande that
the Dynt of the Nayles remayned in his Hand to be sene the Daye
followinge.  Being thus pricked forwarde on he goeth to the Priest and
discloseth the hole matter.  He arrayeth his Parishe, displayeth his
Banners, putteth on Copes and Surplas, and setteth the Carpenter foremost
as his Captaine, they digge awhile and anone they find a great Marble
havinge in it of black Flynt the Image of the Crucifixe so artificially
wroughte as if God himselfe (sayth myne Auteur) had framed it.  Under the
right Arme of this Crucifixe thear was a small Image of the same Forme, a
litle Belle also, and a black Booke conteyninge the Text of the four
Evangelists.  All this they signified to Tovi le Prude then Lord of the
Soyle, Standarde Bearer to the Kinge and his Chief Councelor, who came to
the place in great Hast and by the advice of his Gents lefte the smalle
cross in the Churche theare determyninge to bestow the greater in suche
Place as God should appointe.  Forthewithe therefore he caused to be
yoked twelve red Oxen and so many white Kyne and layeth the Stone in a
Wayne myning if God so wille to cary it to Canterbyrye, but the Cattle
could not by any Force be compelled to draw thytherwarde.  When he saw
that he changed his Mynde and bad theim dryve toward his House at
Readinge whearin he had great Delighte, but still the Wayne stode
immoveable notwithstandinge that the Oxen did thear best.  At the Lengthe
he remembered a small House that he had begone to buyld at Waltham for
his Disporte and commanded them to make thytherward.  Which words he had
no soner spoken but the Wayne of itselfe moved.  Now in the way many
weare healed of many Infirmities; amongste the whiche threscore sixe
Parsons’ {18} vowed their labour towarde the Conveiance of this Crosse,
and weare the first Founders of Waltham Towne wheare was nothing before
but only a simple House for this Tovi to repose himself at when he came
thyther to hunte notwithstandinge that he had thereby divers Landes, as
Enfield, Edelmetun, Cetrehunt, Myms, and the hole Baronie that Goffrey of
Maundville the first of that name had.  Now when the Crosse was broughte
thyther, Tovi commaunded it to be set up, and while one by Chaunce perced
it with a Nayle the Blood issued out of the Flinte in great Abundance.
Whereat Tovi beinge greatly amazed, fel downe and worshipped it promiseth
before it to manumittee {20} his Bondmen to bestow possession on such as
should deserve it.”

 [Picture: Waltham Abbey one hundred years ago.  (Dr. Hughson’s “Circuit
                            of London,” 1808)]

The cross gave its name to the place, and over a long series of years
attracted crowds of the devote, the maimed, and diseased to the place.
In 1192 the cross was covered with silver, but the figure of Christ was
left untouched by reason, it is surmised, of a remarkable incident that
had happened a few years previously.  On that occasion, the crucifix
being under repair, Robert the Goldsmith, of St. Albans, removed the
circlet round the thigh, when all present were stricken blind for a
considerable time.


Harold’s Minster.


On the site of Tovi’s foundation Earl Harold, upon whom Waltham and vast
lands had been bestowed by Edward the Confessor, reared and endowed a
magnificent church, which he intended to rival in beauty and importance
King Edward’s abbey church at Westminster.  The dean and twelve secular
Black canons who formed the ecclesiastical constitution of Harold’s
foundation, were amply provided for, each of the latter having a manor
and the dean six manors for his maintenance.  In later times (1177) Henry
II., on the ground that the canons had grown wasteful and corrupt,
substituted for Harold’s foundation an Augustinian priory, then, seven
years later, raised this to the dignity of an Abbey, installing Walter de
Gaunt, of Oseney, as the first abbot.

Harold’s church was splendidly adorned, in a manner that suggests, as the
late Bishop Stubbs observes, that the founder had been influenced by
Eastern art.  Brazen plates, gilt, were spread over the walls, the
capitals and bases of the massive pillars were curiously carved and
wreathed with the gilded metal; the altar was enriched with elaborate
ornaments, the furniture, reliquaries, and vestments were provided on a
liberal scale.  Numerous relics, in addition to the miraculous crucifix,
formed part of the endowment.  The consecration of the church probably
took place on May 3, 1060, the Feast of the Invention of the Holy Cross,
which became one of the fair days under the charter of Matilda.
Kinsinge, Archbishop of York, performed the ceremony of consecration,
assisted by most of the English bishops.  King Edward and his queen
Edith, sister of Harold, and the flower of the nobility, were present.

It was here that, scarce six years later, Harold, on his return from
Stamford Bridge, had news of the Norman invasion.  He stayed for the
night at his mansion in the park at Nazeing, still called Harold’s Park,
and on the morrow offered up prayers for his success in the Abbey.  It is
recorded that the figure of the Saviour on the wondrous crucifix bowed
the head as if to express sorrow for his inevitable fate.  He set out for
Senlac accompanied by two of the canons, who, if the omen were fulfilled,
were bidden to bring back with them the body of the founder.  Harold’s
war-cry was “Holy Rood.”  The canons, true to their trust, recovered the
king’s body, by the aid of Harold’s old love, Editha the “Swan-necked,”
and brought it to Waltham with all possible honours.  Here the remains
were interred, being translated from time to time as alterations and
additions to the church necessitated (it was not finally completed until
1125), finding a final resting place near the great altar, about 140 feet
from the present east end of the church.  Here a most beautiful and
imposing tomb was erected, but all that remains of this is a curious
piece of carved ironstone representing the face of a warrior, which,
after many vicissitudes, including its use as a fountain ornament, was
returned to the possession of the church a few years ago, and now reposes
on the tomb of Robert Smith in the chancel.

To the antiquary, the student, and the lover of all that is beautiful in
architecture, the ancient minster offers a boundless store of interest.
In the course of his scholarly observations upon the architecture and
history of the abbey church the late Professor Freeman says: “Barbarous
mutilations and hardly less barbarous additions have entirely destroyed
its character, as seen from without, and even within, both mediæval
alterations of the strangest kind and the accumulated enormities of more
recent days have gone far to ruin the general effect of the original
building.  Still a large portion of the original interior remains
untouched; an interior deserving attentive study as one of the noblest
specimens of Northern Romanesque, and invested with a yet higher interest
if we may regard it as called into being by the taste and bounty of the
last of our native kings.”

The noble edifice was cruciform in plan, with a nave and aisles (all that
now remain), choir, and central tower.  The spring of one of the great
arches upon which this latter stood, is plainly visible at the present
east end.  This tower fell in 1552, doubtless owing to the destruction of
the choir, and the present western tower was erected about five years
later out of the fragments.  The nave consists of seven bays, and is 109
feet long from east to west, by 55 feet wide, and from the floor to the
beautifully painted ceiling, the work of Sir E. J. Poynter, is a height
of 52 feet.  Upon the great pillars that support the arches will be
noticed the spiral and chevron indenting, originally filled with chased
and gilt metal.  In some places the rivet holes are still discernible.
The aisles were originally vaulted, and the triforium passage above was
lighted by the circular windows that will be noticed.  There are three
tiers of arches: the nave or arcade, the triforium, and the clerestory.
The Rev. J. H. Stamp, in his excellent little history of Waltham, says of
the plan and design of the church that whilst the cruciform plan was
significant of Christ crucified, the twelve pillars represented the
apostles, and the three tiers of arches the Holy Trinity.

  [Picture: The interior of the Abbey Church, Waltham.  Drawn by Duncan
                                  Moul]

The wonderful grandeur and nobility of the interior can well be
appreciated by standing just within the tower and viewing the “long-drawn
aisles” through the great western arch.  This arch formed part of the
scheme of restoration and rebuilding which took place at the latter end
of the thirteenth century, when the original Norman doorway was removed
and a grand Decorated west front substituted.  This had two turrets on
each side, terminating in octagonal pinnacles of fine proportions and
design, and a beautiful Decorated window appears to have been inserted
over the arch.  Unfortunately, the present tower obscures much of this
thirteenth century work.  With this scheme of rebuilding, which was
instigated by Abbot Reginald and carried out by his successors, Abbots
Hugh and Robert, is associated a curious and unfortunate defacement or
destruction of a portion of the beautiful Norman arcading.  There will be
noticed on either side of the church, near the west end, a high Gothic
arch, sadly out of harmony with the remaining arcading.  It is said that
the architect who was first engaged upon the restoration work was
demented, and set about transforming the architectural character of the
church.  He removed the elegant filling-in of the triforium and cut away
the lower Norman arches, and after having thus mutilated two tiers of
arches on each side, began upon the third tier on the north side, but was
happily stopped in his crazy efforts by the interference of the abbot,
and his peremptory dismissal.  It is to his successor that we owe the
beautiful western doorway and front.  This restoration scheme also
included the adornment of the interior with beautiful frescoes, signs of
which are still slightly visible on one or two of the arches.


Relics and Monuments.


Within the tower of the church are preserved the old stocks and
whipping-post, together with the pillory, which formerly stood on the
site now occupied by the new municipal buildings.  In the vestry are also
preserved a number of interesting relics, including a pilgrim’s bottle
and the massive blade of a battle-axe which, tradition avers, was
Harold’s.

There are many monuments and numerous interesting tablets and memorials.

Of the monuments the most noticeable is the tomb of Sir Edward Denny and
his wife Margaret, in the chancel.  The knight is represented in armour
lying on his left side, the figure of his wife reclining below; their ten
children are carved in relief, in attitudes of prayer, upon the panel
beneath.  This Edward Denny was the comrade of Spenser, the poet, and Sir
Philip Sidney, and the captor of the rebel Earl of Desmond.

Near by stands the effigy of Lady Elizabeth Greville, first cousin to
Lady Jane Grey, widow of Henry Denny (son of Sir Anthony Denny) and wife
of Sir Edward Greville, third son of the ancestor of the present Earl of
Warwick.  This effigy is all that remains of an elegant tomb of
alabaster, which formerly stood to the north of the altar.

On the opposite side of the chancel, near the organ, stands the marble
tomb of Robert Smith, a wealthy seaman of the seventeenth century.  The
magnificent choir which was so ruthlessly demolished by Henry VIII. at
the Dissolution contained, in addition to the tomb of the founder, the
handsome sarcophagi of Baron Hugh Nevil, Lord High Justice of England,
temp. Richard I.; Archdeacon Passelew, and numerous abbots, earls, and
knights.

There are three mural brasses on the south wall, one being to the memory
of Edward Stacey, one of the lay pensioners of the monastery at the time
of the Dissolution, and another to Thomas Colte, second son of Sir John
Colte, of Nether Hall, Roydon.

The remains of the old choir screen, a beautiful example of carpentry and
carving; the ancient Purbeck marble font; the handsome reredos, and the
fine rose window above; the marks of the chain that once held the great
Bible, on one of the pillars, and many other features are here to
interest the visitor.  The handsome stained glass in the Rose window,
depicting the Creation, and the three lights under the arch were designed
by the late Sir Edward Burne-Jones.

Nor must the beautiful Lady Chapel (the only chapel remaining of five
that were originally attached to the church) be forgotten.  This dates
its foundation from 1316, and is by some regarded as one of the richest
specimens of mediæval architecture in England.  Its window tracery is
certainly very elegant, though this has undergone considerable
restoration.  The interior was originally adorned with statuary and
frescoes, a painting of the Last Judgment occupying the east wall.
Traces of this ancient and curious representation are still discernible.
The remains of the old piscina are also still in existence.  Of the crypt
beneath, Thomas Fuller, who, by the way, was for many years incumbent
here, quaintly speaks as being “the finest that I ever saw.”


The greatness of the Abbey.


Having feasted the eye and the mind on the many beautiful and interesting
features of the ancient fane, one may rest beneath the aged elm tree in
the churchyard, and meditate upon the circumstance that this magnificent
edifice is but a third portion of Harold’s minster, and that only a
fragment of the old monastery which grew up around it in mediæval times,
forming a vast congregation of stately buildings, now remains; that just
as the physical characteristics of the Abbey and its minster were vast
and important, so were its landed possessions, which stretched out far
and wide on all sides; that the immensity of its wealth was such that at
the time of the Dissolution the gross revenue amounted to £1,079 12s.
1d., representing about £15,000 at the present day; whilst the potency of
the abbots, who were mitred and sat in Parliament, was great, and the
splendour of their respective establishments was upon a generous scale.
Some of these abbots, of whom there were thirty in all, were great in the
best sense of the word, and exercised their potency for the good of the
Abbey and the community towards which they stood in the joint relation of
spiritual and temporal overlords.


A Feudal Abbot.


One of these particularly was a man of vigorous character and determined
spirit, who, “in asserting the rights and privileges of the monastery
during his rule, came into collision with parishioners, neighbours, pope,
and king.”  First, differences appear to have arisen between the
parishioners and the abbot as to the former having right of access to the
central tower and bells, which they had enjoyed under Harold’s
foundation.  The abbot accordingly shut out the people from this and the
choir (the monastic part of the church) by erecting a stone screen or
wall immediately behind the altar of the parish church (the present
nave).  This wall is clearly observable from the outside beneath the Rose
window at the east end, and in this will be seen traces of two doorways
with which it was pierced to allow the dean or parish priest to enter and
minister to the people.  There would seem to have been reprisals on the
part of the parishioners, for a little later they disputed the abbot’s
rights of grazing on the marsh, and, resorting to violence, severely
assaulted the keepers and killed the abbot’s horses.  For this the
offenders suffered the double penalty of being heavily fined by the
justices of the King’s Bench and excommunicated by the abbot.  The
latter, however, did not enforce either, and forgave the erring ones.
Next Abbot Simon was at war with the lord of the manor of Cheshunt,
Peter, Duke of Savoy, who claimed all the land west of the main stream of
the Lea—called the King’s stream—whilst the abbot contended that his
jurisdiction extended to the smaller stream half a mile further west.
The lawsuit which ensued was, as old Fuller says, “as long lived as any
in England,” by reason of “the greatness of the clients”; but it was
finally concluded in favour of the abbot.  This occurred in 1248, and
three years later the doughty abbot was setting the pope at defiance by
protesting against the persecution, oppression, and robbery of the
conventual churches by the bishops and legates.  Twice also Abbot Simon
successfully resisted the extortionate demands of the king, and
stubbornly refused to enrich the royal treasury at the expense of the
monastery.

I am afraid I have rather digressed from the main purpose of this little
work in relating some of the deeds of this sturdy abbot, but I think the
brief relation of these may be of some interest as an illustration of the
social and religious conditions of Waltham in mediæval times and of the
wonderful power wielded by these old ecclesiastical potentates.


A Conventual Relic.


Now to resume the broken thread.  The remaining fragment of the
conventual buildings to which I have alluded above consists of a
beautiful little chamber, often spoken of as “an architectural gem,”
which stands in the Abbey gardens.  It is locally known by the
undignified appellation of the “potato cellar,” due to its irreverent use
in modern times.  It consists of a small longitudinal apartment, with a
beautifully groined ceiling and quadripartite vaulting.  It is 29 feet
long, running north and south, and has two doorways, one of which is
blocked up.  It is considered to have been either the fratry or an
antechamber to the abbot’s mansion, in which the monks assembled
preparatory to the procession to the church.

One passes from the churchyard to the market-place—another interesting
corner of the old town—by an ancient lych-gate, adjacent to the Harp Inn,
which is peculiarly interesting as being probably the oldest existing
relic of domestic architecture directly connected with the Abbey, and has
from very early times formed the main entrance to the church.

Turning sharp to the left, into Sun Street, one is soon in the old main
road that runs from London, by Walthamstow, Chingford, and Sewardstone,
to Nazeing, Roydon, etc.  To the left, round by the New Inn, the fine old
wall of the Abbey gardens comes into view, and midway along its extent
will be noticed the sign of the cross and a lozenge (probably a sign
indicative of the Trinity) inserted in black brick.  The remains of the
moat, which, with the mill stream, completely surrounded the Abbey, will
also be seen.

Retracing our steps towards London, a few yards beyond the entry of Sun
Street, will be noticed an old house jutting upon the street, with stucco
and “roughcast” exterior, the entrance to which is by a gate in the
adjoining garden wall.  This was the home of John Foxe, the
martyrologist, and here he wrote the famous “Book of Martyrs.”  It is
said that Cranmer also occupied this house when resident in Waltham.  Its
interior presents many interesting features.  In the garden is a tulip
tree, which is probably a descendant of a fine specimen of this arboreal
rarity, which flourished for centuries in the old Abbey gardens.  This
tree is said to have been one of the largest and finest of its kind in
all England.  Its fame is perpetuated by two finely carved chairs, made
out of the wood of the old tree, which stand within the sacrarium of the
Abbey church.

         [Picture: The home of Foxe the martyrologist at Waltham]



CHAPTER II.
A RAMBLE TO EPPING FOREST AND HIGH BEECH.


FROM Foxe’s house it is a pleasant walk to Epping Forest and High Beech.
The way is by Farm Hill (almost opposite Foxe’s house) to Brookside,
thence sharp to the right over the bridge, and up the hill by the old
windmill for a little more than half a mile, to the hamlet known as Honey
lane, where the margin of the fine old forest, the heights of which will
have been viewed on the way, opens out.  We turn up by the covered well
and trough into Honey lane itself.  Those who may prefer to ensure a
right direction may keep to the roadway, which strikes up the hill
through the forest, and, bearing sharp to the left and right
respectively, leads direct to High Beech.  It is more pleasant, perhaps,
to wander through the woodland, and such as would prefer to do this may
strike across the plain to the left of the bridge over the stream,
following the line of the watercourse, then, taking a break in the
thicket that will be found, a clear way called the Verderer’s Path will
soon be entered.  Pursuing this to the right (south), we come out at the
top of the hill in Honey lane, near a cyclists’ caution board, and the
way to High Beech, the spire of the church being clearly noticeable, is
then straight along the road.  Many a charming peep over the Lea Valley
will have been enjoyed on the way, but from High Beech Plain a panorama
of superb beauty is opened out to view.  Those who have hitherto regarded
the home counties of Essex, Middlesex, and Herts as poor, flat, and
featureless parts of our England will be agreeably surprised at the rich
beauty of the landscape which this view of the Lea Valley affords.


Tennyson’s home.


It was a scene that the late Lord Tennyson, who resided for some years at
Beech Hill Park here, which lies a little to the west of the King’s Oak
Inn, loved and admired, as he also reverenced the ancient town and
minster of Waltham.  It was the sonorous bells of Harold’s church that
inspired the beautiful lines of “In Memoriam”:

                   “Ring out, wild bells, to the wild sky.”

His noble drama of “Harold,” too, doubtless owes its inception to the
poet’s residence in and intimate connection with this locality.  High
Beech church lies a little beyond the King’s Oak Inn and the plain; it is
a modern building in the Gothic style.

From the church we retrace our steps to the inn named, and make the
historic earthworks known as Ambresbury Banks or Camp (a bee line of
about two miles) our next objective.  The road continues beyond the
junction with Honey lane, whence we came, then bears to the right on to
the Wake Arms Inn and the main Epping road, a little less than a mile
along which brings us to the camp, this lying on the east side of the
road.  But there is a very pleasant way thither through the heart of the
forest, which I will endeavour to describe.  Here, however, I would
suggest that all who wish to enjoy the real beauty of the forest in this
way should take the precaution to carry a reliable compass, for it is
very easy to become confused about the geographical circumstances of
one’s surroundings among the wood and thicket.

We turn off across the open plain to the right, about 300 yards beyond
the King’s Oak Inn, where will be found a track or walk, which at times
is rather indistinct.  Follow this for about half a mile, then turn sharp
to the right (east) through the glade into the valley, skirting the swamp
and Wake Valley ponds (leaving these to the north) on to the main road.
Here we turn to the left and continue to the Wake Arms Inn.  Thence the
Theydon road (opposite) is taken, down Jack’s Hill for about half a mile,
and when the Verderers’ Ride is noticed on the left, this is followed to
Ambresbury Banks.  This route will take the wanderer through parts of the
forest that are almost unfrequented, where oak and beech and hornbeam
flourish in all their wild grandeur; where many of the fungi and lichens,
for which the forest is so noted, will be met with, as well as many
beautiful flowering plants, rare-winged insects, and most of the birds,
so large and representative a number of which make their home in the
forest.  Nor is it at all unlikely that a herd of the forest deer will be
seen, for these graceful creatures generally resort to this part.  Upon
the walk one’s mind almost naturally reverts to the days when this 5,000
odd acres of woodland, now the “people’s playground,” was a mere morsel
of the great forest of Waltham, an almost boundless tract of wild forest
land, which formed the favourite hunting ground for the Saxon, Norman,
Plantagenet, and Tudor kings.

Of Ambresbury Camp, which we have now attained, much has been said and
written in dispute as to its origin.  There, however, seems to be little
doubt that it formed an important British earthwork, and, despite all
that has been said to the contrary, it is extremely probable that it
formed the final stronghold of Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, from which
she and her vast army of Britons issued forth to do battle with the Roman
legions under Suetonius Paulinus, and suffered that terrible defeat of
which history tells us.  This is a spot, therefore, that awakens solemn
thoughts.


Copt Hall and Upshire.


The road back to Waltham turns out of the Epping highway directly
opposite the camp, and takes us by the main entrance and lodges of Copt
Hall, once the stately seat of the abbots of Waltham, who frequently
entertained royal heads, potent princes, and great nobles here.  Robert
Fuller, the last abbot, surrendered the beautiful mansion and domain to
Henry VIII. at the Dissolution.  In later times Copt Hall was the
residence of the Princess Mary, subsequently the seat of the Earl of
Middlesex, patron of old Thomas Fuller, and is now held by the Wythes
family.  Half a mile further on we enter the pretty hamlet of Upshire,
with its broad expanse of green and pretty little church, built a year or
two ago by Sir T. Fowell Buxton, Bart., lord of the manor, whose fine
domain of Warlies stretches far away over the undulating country to the
north.  The entrance to Warlies is passed at the bottom of the hill.
Thence the way is by a pleasant country road, running through fields and
pastures, with here and there a farm-house or a group of cottages, to
Waltham Abbey again.

                 [Picture: The Eleanor Cross at Waltham]



CHAPTER III.
WALTHAM CROSS AND THEOBALDS


WALTHAM CROSS, which is not to be confounded with Waltham Holy Cross,
commonly called Waltham Abbey, for whilst the latter is in Essex, the
former is in Hertfordshire, and forms part of the parish of Cheshunt.  To
reach Waltham Cross, the visitor must retrace his steps towards the
railway, and passing over this, the historic monument, which stands at
the junction with the old Great North Road—is reached by a walk of five
minutes’ duration.

Waltham Cross was one of the several similar monuments erected to the
memory of Queen Eleanor by her devoted husband, Edward I.  She died at
Herdby, near Grantham, on November 12, 1290, whence her remains were
conveyed to Westminster for interment by stages which were marked by ten
crosses.  Of these only the crosses at Geddington, Northampton, and
Waltham remain.

Waltham Cross has long been admired as an elegant specimen of Early
English or Middle Pointed architecture.  It is hexagonal in form, and
consists of three handsome stages or storeys, each terminated by an
embattled frieze, whilst the angles are respectively supported by a
graduated buttress, ornamented with foliated finials.  Within the panels
of the lower storey are shields bearing the arms of England, Castile, and
Leon and Poictou; whilst statues of Queen Eleanor occupy niches on the
second storey.


The Four Swans Inn.


Each corner of the road that here debouches upon the main high road is
occupied by an inn, that nearer London being the Falcon, and the other
the Four Swans.  Both are survivals of that period of prosperity when the
coaches between London and Cambridge sped along the road.  Whilst,
however, the Falcon has been rebuilt in recent times—a work which made
possible the widening of the roadway and the preservation of the
Cross—the Four Swans retains very much of its old-time glory, and its
sign is still stretched across the main street, forming an advertisement
of such a conspicuous character as would not be admissible now-a-days.
The interior of this inn possesses many of those interesting features
which are generally attached to old coaching and posting houses, and in
its oldest portion is a handsome Jacobean staircase.  Its foundation,
however, dates far beyond even coaching days, for the house originally
formed part of the possessions of the Abbey, of which it was a guest
house, whilst the Abbot’s manorial court was held here.  The oldest part
of the house is that to the left of the gateway on entering, and it is
highly probable that the suite of rooms in which the tenants
assembled—described by Dr. Stukeley in 1752 as being “where the chimneys
are”—were contained in this wing, whilst the older portion of the
spacious apartment over the gateway, now used as a masonic hall, formed
the abbot’s court-room.  At other times the place was used for the
lodgement of pilgrims and similar purposes.  The sign of the Four Swans,
the only one that I have met with, is derived from the arms of Earl
Harold, whose shield had emblazoned upon it a cross with four swans.

      [Picture: The Eleanor Cross, showing detail of carving.  From
           “Picturesque Hertfordshire.”  Drawn by Duncan Moul]

 [Picture: Theobalds, formerly the favourite residence of King James I.]


Theobalds.


With the Abbey, the Cross, and the Four Swans Inn we leave behind us, it
may be said, associations with and monuments of mediæval times, and enter
upon the later, but no less stirring epoch of English history which is
marked by the Tudor, Jacobean, and Commonwealth periods, by a visit to
the historic seat of Theobalds, or Tibbles, as it is locally called.  The
entrance to the park is from the high road, close to Theobalds Grove
Station on the Great Eastern Railway branch line to Cheshunt.  As one
saunters through the long leafy aisle, there comes to mind the reference
to this famous seat and its locality in old Izaak Walton’s famous
classic, the “Complete Angler,” wherein the angler, the hunter, and the
falconer, each commends his recreation; Piscator avows his intention of
going “this fine, fresh May morning,” as far as Ware, whereupon Venator
says his purpose is to “drink my morning draught at the Thatched House,
Hoddesdon,” and Anceps rejoins: “Sir, I shall, by your favour, bear you
company as far as Theobalds, and there leave you; for then I turn up to a
friend’s house, who mews a hawk for me, which I now long to see.”  The
present house of Theobalds, which is the seat of Lady Meux, is modern,
having been erected in 1768, and, though large, is not beautiful.  A view
of the house and gardens can be obtained by taking the footpath on the
left, running along the bank of the New River, the stream being widened
into a lake here, and creating a very pretty feature of the Park lands.

[Picture: Temple Bar.  In its new home, at the main entrance to Theobalds
                                  Park]

The main entrance to the house is by the famous Temple Bar, which stands
a little further along the drive from which the path has been taken.  A
more beautiful setting for Wren’s wonderful gateway it would scarcely be
possible to conceive or create, and I know not another gateway entrance
to a private park or domain throughout the country that is more beautiful
than this.  The nobility of its lines, the grandeur of the design, and
the beauty of the stone are here all thrown into wonderful relief by the
rich green of the foliage which forms the setting of the gate.  One
cannot help wondering what Dr. Johnson, or Sir Joshua Reynolds, or
Charles Lamb, to all of whom the old gate that marked the western
boundary of the city was familiar, would have said if they could have
seen it transported to its present position.  They were all ardent lovers
of the town, and would certainly have lamented its loss from their Fleet
Street.  The Doctor would probably have said, “Sir! it is a vile outrage
upon the City of London.”  Yet I think their artistic perceptions would
have compelled them to admit that its new home endowed it with a grandeur
that it never before possessed.

Theobalds and its immediate vicinity is very rich in historic incidents.
With it are associated the lives and deeds of Cardinal Wolsey, the great
Lord Burleigh, Queen Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., the Cromwells, and
others.

Theobalds formed one of the six manors into which was parcelled the
parish of Cheshunt, which itself at the time of the Conquest formed a
manor in the Honour of Richmond, conferred upon Earl Alan by his uncle,
William the Conqueror.  The origin of the name is unknown, but in 1441 we
find the manor of Theobalds was granted by the Crown to the hospital of
St. Anthony, in London.  About the middle of the sixteenth century it was
conferred upon William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burleigh, Secretary of
State to Edward VI. and Elizabeth.  In July, 1564, the queen paid her
trusty counsellor a visit here, and was so pleased with her reception and
the beauty of the place, that she expressed her intention of returning
hither at a future date.  Cecil accordingly demolished the old grange and
erected a spacious and handsome mansion for her majesty’s reception.

A contemporary biographer of Cecil has pertinently observed, “He buylt
three houses; one in London for necessity, another at Burghley, of
computency for the mansion of his Barony, and another at Waltham for his
younger sonne, which at the first he meant but for a little pile, as I
have hard him saie, but after he came to enterteyne the Quene so often
there he was inforced to enlarge it, rather for the Quene and her greate
traine and to sette poore on worke, than for pompe or glory, for he ever
said it wold be to big for the smalle living he cold leave his sonne.”
The same author also says Cecil “greatlie delighted in making gardens,
fountaines, and walkes, which at Theobalds were perfected most costly,
bewtyfully and pleasauntly, while one might walk twoe myle in the walkes
before he came to their ends.”

Norden has remarked of Cecil’s new house: “To speake of the state and
beauty thereof at large as it deserveth for curious Buildings,
delightfull walkes and pleasaunt conceits within and without and other
Thinges very glorious and elegant to be seene, would challenge a great
portion of this little treatise, and therefore leaste I should come short
of that one commendation that it deserveth, I leave it as indeede it is,
a princely seate.”

Vallens, in his “Tale of Two Swannes” (1590) also pays a graceful tribute
to Cecil and old Theobalds in the following lines:

    “Now see these Swannes, the new and worthy seate
    Of famous Cecil, tresorer of the land,
    Whose wisdome, counsell, skill of princes’ state
    The world admires; then Swannes may do the same:
    The house it selfe doth shewe the owner’s wit,
    And may for beautie, state and every thing,
    Compared be with most within the land.”



James I. and Theobalds.


Lord Burleigh was succeeded in 1598 by his second son, Robert, first Earl
of Salisbury, who here entertained James I. for four days on his way from
Scotland to London to take possession of the throne, as well as the Lords
of the Council, who were here to do homage to the son of Mary, Queen of
Scots.  In July, 1606, James again visited the earl at Theobalds,
together with the King of Denmark, and their majesties were entertained
with great magnificence during a stay of five days.  The account of the
proceedings related by a contemporary chronicler furnishes us with an
interesting if not very edifying glimpse into the ways and manners of
Court life in the seventeenth century.  Much of the period of their
majesties’ stay at Theobalds appears to have been occupied by a series of
masques and debauches.  At one of the pageants the King of Denmark
represented Solomon, and a lady of the Court, in the character of the
Queen of Sheba, proceeded to perform her part by laying gifts at the
monarch’s feet.  She had, however, imbibed so freely of the fine wines
supplied from the Cecil cellar that she was unable to retain her balance,
and fell, sprawling, into the lap of the king.  Rising from his
magnificent throne, the latter attempted to dance with the “fallen”
queen, but the royal legs being as unsteady as those of the lady, the
twain cut a sorry sight, and his majesty had to be carried away
ignominiously to his chamber.  “Now did appear,” writes the chronicler,
who would seem to have been one of the guests, “Faith, Hope, and Charity.
Hope did essay to speak, but wine did render her endeavours so feeble
that she withdrew.  Faith was then all alone, for I am certain she was
not joined by Good Works, and left the Court in a staggering condition.
Charity came then to the king’s feet, and soon returned to Hope and
Faith, who were both sick in the lower hall.”

So delighted was King Jamie with Theobalds and the hunting afforded by
its domain, as well as in the adjoining Enfield Chase and Waltham Forest,
that he prevailed upon the noble owner to exchange it for Hatfield, and
the latter has since that time (1608) remained the home of the Cecils.
The king enlarged the park of Theobalds, which he enclosed with a wall
ten miles in circumference.  He passed nearly all his leisure here, and
died at Theobalds on March 25, 1625.

Charles I. also received homage at Theobalds upon his succession to the
throne, but he had not that affection for the place which his father
displayed.  He retired hither, however, at the end of 1641, or beginning
of 1642, to escape the unpleasantness of State affairs, and in February
of the latter year here received the solemn remonstrance of Parliament.
Hence he set out a month later, with a body of adherents, to raise the
Royal Standard at Nottingham.  It is by some stated that the unfortunate
king wrote a portion of the “Eikon Basilike” at Theobalds.

That strange passion for destruction which possessed Cromwell and the
Parliamentarians moved these ignorant sectarians to destroy the handsome
palace reared by Lord Burleigh, and enlarged and beautified by James I.;
its rich contents were dispersed, and its beautiful gardens ruthlessly
destroyed.

Charles II. bestowed the manor of Theobalds upon General Monk—for the
consideration of £12,067 6s. 8d.—and created him Duke of Albemarle.  It
descended to the Duke of Montagu, and later to the Cromwell family, then
with the estate of Cheshunt Park to the Russells, subsequently became the
property of Sir George Prescott, and finally was purchased by the late
Sir Henry Meux, Bart.  In 1712, when Sir Thomas Abney lived at Theobalds,
he persuaded Dr. Isaac Watts to retire hither.  During his thirty-six
years’ residence here the learned divine wrote his famous hymns and
songs, and died in 1748 at the age of seventy-four.



CHAPTER IV.
CHESHUNT AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.


OLD Cheshunt village is a little less than a mile north of Theobalds by
the road that turns up the hill, opposite Temple Bar, to Bury Green,
thence leaving the cemetery on the left.  A pleasant old-fashioned inn,
where the magisterial business was dispensed for many years, and a small
cluster of houses form the old village to-day, with Cheshunt College, a
foundation by Selina Countess of Huntingdon, for the training of
Nonconformist ministers, hard by, and the fine old parish church reposing
in its ample “God’s Acre,” opposite.  But in quite recent times the
builder has been busy in this locality, and at the bottom of the village
a good many houses of the suburban villa type have been erected.  The
most populous part of Cheshunt has grown up along either side of the high
road, here known as Cheshunt Street, nearly half a mile distant,
eastward, leaving the old village isolated, as it were.  But it was here
that stood the fine old mansions for which the parish was once famed,
grouped around and about the church.  Of these more presently.  Meantime
a walk may profitably be taken along Church Gate, whence proceeding
between some handsome old sixteenth century houses, with overhanging
fronts, one steps into a street or lane that wears a most charming air of
antiquity.  At the bottom is the old Free school, founded by Robert
Dewhurst in 1640, the building forming an interesting example of the
domestic Tudor-Jacobean transition style.


A strange Custom.


Cheshunt is the modernised form of the Roman Cestrehunt.  A British
encampment is said to have existed here, a little to the west of the
ancient Ermine Street, upon the track of which the high road now runs.
What may be the remains of this exist in a field lying on the west of the
churchyard and close to the cemetery.  It is also recorded that a bank or
earthen wall extended in early times through this parish, which is
believed to have been the boundary of the East Saxons.  In connection
with this bank a curious custom exists.  By this, if a copyholder dies
seised of land on the west, or above bank, the right of succession falls
to the eldest son, but if it is below the bank then to the youngest son.

                  [Picture: In the village at Cheshunt]

Cheshunt parish is an extensive one, and its physical aspect wonderfully
varied, with a richly wooded undulating surface.  There are many elevated
situations from 300 to 354 feet above sea-level, and from most of these
beautiful views of the surrounding country are to be enjoyed.  The
district, too, abounds in charming walks, and field paths are numerous.
Large areas are devoted to fruit culture, roses, horticultural nurseries,
and market gardens.  Quite a feature of the place are the extensive rose
nurseries of Messrs. Paul and Son in the high road, and these are well
worthy a visit by lovers of flowers, to whom they are at all times
accessible.

It was to old Pengelly House, which stood in its spacious grounds (now
built over), opposite Cheshunt College, that Richard Cromwell, the
deposed Protector, retired after his return from the Continent in 1680.
He spent his remaining days here as the guest of Sergeant Pengelly,
afterwards Chief Baron of the Exchequer, in the name of Clarke.


Cheshunt Great House.


A little beyond the old village, on the road that runs to Goff’s Oak and
Cheshunt Common—a beautiful breezy height—stands a structure that strikes
one as odd in form and character.  It is isolated and alone, occupying a
slight elevation, and little conjecture is needed to recognise this as
the remains of an old moated mansion.  It is known as the Great House,
and believed to have originally been the Palace of Waltham, of which
ancient records speak, and later served as the seat of the lord of the
manor of St. Andrews-le-Motte.  The foundations of this structure are by
some authorities considered to date back to the fifteenth century, and a
well-known local antiquary asserts that it was built 1380–90, as the
palace for Cardinal Henry Beaufort, second son of John of Gaunt.  The
original house was a quadrangular Gothic building, surrounded by a moat,
of which traces are clearly discernible.  A considerable portion of the
structure was demolished in 1801.  The Great House long formed a dower
palace of the queens of England, and in 1519 was granted to Cardinal
Wolsey.

                     [Picture: Cheshunt Great House]

Though it is difficult to be precise and certain about the history of
this interesting old building, there can be no doubt about its being a
very old foundation, and having formed part of a large and important
domestic structure.  The great hall, which is the chief feature of the
remains, is a very noble apartment, and must belong to a period earlier
than the Tudors.  It is 27 feet long by 21 feet wide, with a height of 36
feet to the centre of the arched roof.  This is supported by ribs of
chestnut wrought in the Gothic style.  The sides are wainscoted, and the
floor is paved with black and white marble.  On the walls hang numerous
portraits of kings and queens, statesmen, and others, most of them
attributed to great masters.  All I should like to say about them is that
as portraits many are interesting.  There are also some examples of chain
and other armour and various weapons of war, as well as some curious
pieces of furniture, said to have belonged to the mighty Cardinal.
Several other apartments are open to visitors, and in one is a quaint
rocking-horse reported to have belonged to Charles I., who was, of
course, frequently at Theobalds in the days of his childhood.  Grim and
tragic stories are told about the underground chambers of this old place.


Cheshunt Church.


The handsome old parish church of St. Mary’s, which is seen from the
Great House, pleasantly and serenely ensconced amid rich arboreal
surroundings, is reached by a path through the fields opposite.  Though
its foundation dates back to a period anterior to the Conquest, for the
church then existing was presented to the canon of the priory of Fulgar,
in Brittany, by Constance, daughter of William of Normandy, the present
church is a building of the sixteenth century, in the early Perpendicular
or Transition style.  It was erected by Nicholas Dixon, Clerk of the Pipe
Office and Baron of the Exchequer, who held the Rectory, temp. Henry VI.
Like many another parish church this of Cheshunt has undergone numerous
alterations and additions, ill-planned restorations and barbaric
effacements, but the survival is a beautiful building, of noble
proportions and of no slight architectural interest.  Perhaps its most
noticeable feature is the fine stone and flint embattled tower, with an
octagon cupola at the south-east corner.  This probably replaced the
spire which originally graced the tower, and from a date on the lead
beneath would seem to have been erected in 1811.  From another angle
formerly projected a cresset, very similar to that on Hardley Church,
near Barnet.  The precise use of these old beacon lights on churches
seems not to be very clear, but they were probably used as signals of
alarm in troublous times.

                  [Picture: The Parish Church, Cheshunt]

Few who enter this church by the handsome doorway at the base of the
tower, the armorial ornamentation of which is worthy notice, will fail to
admire the view which is afforded when standing beneath the noble western
arch of the lower wall, by the handsome nave and chancel, lighted by a
clerestory, and closed in by an open timber roof, the latter beautifully
painted.  There is a good deal to interest one within the church.  There
will be noticed a modern Rood screen across the chancel front, and
originally there existed a very handsome screen of this character, access
to which was gained by a small staircase on the southern side, which was
clumsily demolished at the restoration in 1872.  In the chancel pavement
is a brass to Nicholas Dixon, the founder, whilst a Gothic altar tomb of
Purbeck marble occupies a recess in the north wall.  The latter is to the
memory of Robert Dacres, of Cheshunt, Privy Councillor to Henry VIII.
Other notable monuments are those of Sir Henry Atkins, physician to James
I. and Charles, Daniel Dodson and Margaret Lady Whatton, whose virtues
are thus recited:

    “Fair as an Angel, virtuous as a saint,
    Whose beauty and whose grace no art can paint,
    Highly belov’d by all and so admir’d,
    As much bewail’d when she from hence retir’d,
    Her soul so pure from earth to Heaven soar’d,
    There to enjoy the God she here enjoy’d,” etc.

Between the nave and chancel on either side is a curious ornamental
opening pierced through the wall.  What purpose these served it is hard
to determine.  In the tower chamber, which has a beautiful vaulted roof,
is the ancient octagonal font of Purbeck marble, as well as the very old
alms chest or poor man’s box, with three fine hasps and locks, and
strongly bonded with iron.  In the churchyard stand a large square tomb,
the burial place of the Cromwell family for several generations.

The Cromwells held Cheshunt Park, which lies a little less than a mile
north of the church, beyond Flamstead End.  This pleasant little hamlet
would seem by its name to furnish another link with Saxon times, for
Flamstead in Anglo-Saxon would mean “place of refuge.”

The manor of Cheshunt Park originally belonged to the Crown, but was
purchased by Sir William Cecil in 1570, and became merged in the manor of
Theobalds.  It was seized with other Crown lands by the Parliament in
1650, and then leased to William Groff.  Thence it passed to the
Cromwells and Russells.  Mrs. Russell was the last person who bore at
birth the name of Cromwell, through direct male descent.  Her father,
Oliver, great-grandson of Henry, son of the Protector, was very desirous
of leaving his name to his son-in-law, and applied several times for the
royal licence for Mr. Russell to assume it.  But the king, George III.,
always refused, saying, “No! no!  No more Oliver Cromwells!”  There is a
plan of the park made in connection with a survey in 1611, in the British
Museum, and it is therein stated to be “in length just 3 myles and in
circuit along the paile 8 myle lack 30 poles.”

At the northern extremity of the parish, along the high road, lies the
hamlet of Turnford, still a picturesque little spot, though now given
over to the builder and market gardener.  Scores of acres of glasshouses
exist here.  In early times, however, the famous nunnery of the
Benedictines extended along the eastern side of the road here.  At the
Dissolution this, with other lands in the parish, fell into the
possession of that “old land grabber,” as a Herts antiquary has dubbed
Sir Anthony Denny.  Nothing now remains of the nunnery.

Cheshunt Street contains a good many interesting examples of old domestic
architecture.  There is rather a curious structure here known locally as
the Round House, which has been in the family of the present owner since
the time of Elizabeth.  It was built by a descendant of one of
Elizabeth’s sea captains, who was engaged in the seven years’ war.  He
settled down here, and called it Effingham Place.


The heights of Cheshunt


The highlands of Cheshunt are all of a beautiful character, and the
climate of these elevated situations is particularly healthful, the air
being clear and bracing.  To the north lie Hammond Street, Appleby
Street, and the beautiful sylvan hamlet of Beaumont Manor; to the west is
the pleasant old village of Goff’s Oak, with pretty Newgate Street
beyond, and the noble domain of Wood Green Park adjacent.  More to the
north is the picturesque old hamlet of Cuffley, to the curative waters of
whose well King James frequently repaired.  From Cuffley one may enjoy a
very fine view of the Lea Valley and the richly timbered undulations of
Epping Forest.  The little place is effectually cut off from the affairs
of ordinary civilisation, and is as isolated as a hamlet in the heart of
Warwickshire.

Goff’s Oak is a pretty little place, with many interesting features about
it.  Its numerous cottages—there is only one good-sized house—lie,
irregularly disposed on either side of the road, often behind ample
gardens beautiful with lilies and larkspur, rocket, wallflowers,
hollyhocks, and other old-time flowers.  It gains its name from a famous
old oak tree, said to have been planted by one of William the Conqueror’s
heroes, Sir Theodore Godfrey, to whom lands here had been assigned (hence
Godfrey’s—Geoffrey’s Oak—Geoff’s—Goff’s Oak).  The venerable tree, of
which only the trunk now remains, has a girth of over twenty feet at
three feet from the ground.  It reminds one of the beautiful lines of
Dryden:

    “The Monarch Oak, the Patriarch of the Trees,
    Shoots rising up, and spreads by slow degrees;
    Three centuries he grows, and three he stays,
    Supreme in state; and in three more decays.”

                       [Picture: Decorative footer]



A CHRONOLOGY OF WALTHAM HOLY CROSS,
OTHERWISE WALTHAM ABBEY.


                         BY THE REV. J. H. STAMP.

           54 B.C.  The British Prince Caswallon encamps at Waltham.
    circ. A.D. 64.  Defeat, death, and burial of Queen Boadicea near
                    Warlies, in this Parish.
         A.D. 894.  King Alfred floods Waltham Marshes and discomfits
                    the Danes.
       circ. 1030.  Discovery of the Holy Cross of Waltham at
                    Montacute, in Somerset.  Tovi, Canute’s Standard
                    Bearer, builds the first Parish Church of
                    Waltham.
             1059.  Earl Harold, afterwards King, erects his Norman
                    Church on the site of Tovi’s Church.
             1060.  Consecration of Harold’s Church on May 3rd, in
                    the presence of King Edward the Confessor.
             1062.  Foundation of Harold’s secular college.
           1066–7.  Burial of King Harold before the High Altar.
             1177.  Harold’s College dissolved and Augustinian Priory
                    founded by Henry II.
             1184.  Waltham Priory becomes Waltham Abbey.
             1201.  Hugh Nevil, the Crusader and High Justice,
                    interred in the Choir.
             1252.  Interment of Archdeacon Passelew,
                    Bishop-designate of Chichester.
        1286–1370.  Restoration of Nave of Parish Church, Decorated
                    West Front inserted, and Lady Chapel erected.
             1290.  The body of Queen Eleanor deposited in the Church
                    for one night.
           1291–2.  Erection of Eleanor Memorial at Waltham Cross.
             1307.  King Edward the First’s body rests for three
                    months near Harold’s Tomb.
       circ. 1370.  Erection of the Abbey Gateway and Walls.
             1400.  Abbot William de Harleston assists at the Funeral
                    of Richard II., at Kings Langley.
       circ. 1509.  Stained Glass Window, presented to Waltham by
                    Henry VIII., now in St. Margaret’s, Westminster.
          1528–29.  Henry VIII. at Waltham.  Cranmer meets Fox and
                    Gardiner in the Homeland, near the Abbey of
                    Waltham, and strikes the keynote of the
                    Reformation.
    circ. 1530–40.  The King places Waltham at the head of his scheme
                    of new Bishoprics.  Thomas Tallis, Organist of
                    the Abbey.
             1540.  Monastery dissolved on March 24th.  Abbot, Robert
                    Fuller, Ex-prior of St. Bartholomew’s,
                    Smithfield.
          1540–52.  Destruction of the Monastery, Choir, Transepts,
                    Eastern Chapels, and Central Tower.  Estates
                    granted to Sir Anthony Denny.
          1556–58.  Present Tower erected at the West End.  Five
                    Abbey Bells sold to provide funds for the
                    completion of the Steeple.
             1563.  Parish Registers commenced.
             1565.  John Foxe, the Martyrologist, resides at Waltham.
             1600.  Sir Edward Denny, Knt. (comrade of Sir Philip
                    Sidney and Spenser, the Poet), interred in the
                    Chancel.
          1605–27.  Dr. Joseph Hall, author of the Contemplations,
                    &c., Incumbent of the Parish, afterwards Bishop
                    of Exeter and Norwich.
             1613.  Birth of Dr. George Hall, third son of Bishop
                    Hall, at Waltham Abbey.  He became Archdeacon of
                    Canterbury and Bishop of Chester.
             1619.  Lady Elizabeth Greville, cousin to Lady Jane
                    Grey, interred in the Abbey Church.
          1637–38.  Edward, Baron Denny of Waltham, and Earl of
                    Norwich, interred in the Chancel; also his wife,
                    the Lady Mary Cecil, Granddaughter of Lord
                    Burleigh.
          1648–58.  Dr. Thomas Fuller, Church Historian, incumbent of
                    Waltham.
       circ. 1656.  Six Bells presented by the Parishioners.
             1660.  James Haye, the second Earl of Carlisle and Baron
                    of Waltham, interred in the Chancel.
             1668.  Restoration of Church and Lady Chapel.
        1798–1810.  Repair and alteration of Tower.  Two Bells added.
    circ. 1837–40.  Lord Tennyson resides at Beech Hill Park in this
                    Parish.
          1848–50.  Dr. W. H. Cummings (Principal of Guildhall School
                    of Music), Organist of Abbey Church.
             1853.  Great West Doorway Restored: Ambrose Poynter,
                    Esq., Architect.
          1859–60.  Restoration of Interior: W. Burges, Esq.,
                    Architect.  East Windows designed by Sir E.
                    Burne-Jones.  Ceiling painted by Sir E. J.
                    Poynter, P.R.A.
             1876.  Restoration of the Lady Chapel by Sir T. Fowell
                    Buxton, Bart.
          1879–93.  Reconstruction and completion of the Organ.
             1882.  Lord Frederick Cavendish at Waltham the Sunday
                    before his assassination in Phœnix Park on May
                    6th, when Queen Victoria visited the Parish, and
                    declared “the Royal Forest of Waltham free and
                    open to the Public for ever.”
             1886.  Carved Oak Screen, presented by the Parishioners,
                    in memory of Rev. J. Francis, Vicar of the Parish
                    1846–85.
             1887.  Illuminated Memorial Clock and Westminster chimes
                    presented by J. Parnell, Esq., J.P.
           1901–2.  Erection of St. Thomas’ Mission Church, near
                    Warlies Park, by Sir T. Fowell Buxton, Bart.,
                    G.C.M.G.
             1902.  Unveiling of Rough Riders’ Memorial Tablet by Sir
                    Ian Hamilton.
           1904–5.  Repair of upper stage of the Tower, rebuilding of
                    parapet with battlements and turrets in
                    accordance with the original design of 1556–8.

INDEX.

                                          PAGE
Abbey Gateway, The                          14
,, Waltham                                   9
Abbots of Waltham                           26
Ambresbury Camp                             33
Architecture of the Abbey                   22

Beech, High                                 31
Beech Hill Park                             32
Brasses in the Abbey                        25

Cheshunt                                    44
Cheshunt Church                             48
,, College                                  44
,, Free School                              44
,, Park                                     50
Churches:—
   The Abbey                                 9
   Cheshunt                                 48
   High Beech                               32
   Upshire                                  34
Copt Hall                                   32

Eleanor Cross, Waltham, The                 35
Eleanor, Queen                              10
Ermine Street                               44

Four Swans, The                             35
Foxe, John                                  29
Fuller, Thomas                              10

Goff’s Oak                                  51
Great House, Cheshunt, The                  46
Gunpowder Factory                           12

Harold’s Bridge                             16
Harold, King                                20
Harold’s Burial Place                       21
Henry VIII. and Waltham                     13
High Beech                                  31
High Beech Church                           32
History of Waltham Abbey                     9
Holy Cross, The                             17
Honey Lane                                  31

James I., King                              42

King’s Oak Inn, The                         32

Lady Chapel, The                            26
Lea Navigation, The                         12
Legend of the Holy Cross                    17

Market Place, Waltham                       28

Pillory, The                                24
Potato Cellar, The                          28

Reformation, The Keynote of the             13
Romeland                                    12
Rose Nurseries, Cheshunt                    46
Round House, Cheshunt                       51

Stocks, Waltham, The                        24

Temple Bar                                  40
Tennyson, Lord                              32
Theobalds                                   38
Tombs                                   25, 49
Tovi the Proud                              17
Turnford                                    51

Upshire                                     34
,, Church                                   34

Wake Arms Inn, The                          32
Waltham Abbey                            9, 17
,, History of                                9
,, and Henry VIII.                          13
Waltham Cross                               35
Watts, Dr.                                  43
Whipping Post, The                          24

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        F. R. and Sydney Heath.  Ordnance Map
        and Plan.
47      The Church of St. Mary, Luton.  By             1/-         6d.
        Constance Isherwood.  Plan

                       MANY OTHERS IN PREPARATION.

                                * * * * *



E. J. HANCHET,

 Estimates given free    [Picture: Picture of      MARBLE FIGURES.
  for Renovating and       grave with stone            STATUES.
      Repairing.              monument]               FOUNTAINS.
                                                        BATHS.

                              MONUMENTAL and
                              GENERAL MASON,
                        SUN STREET, WALTHAM ABBEY.

                                * * * * *



CHESHUNT LAUNDRY.


                    (Well known as the Hand Laundry.)

                    _ESTABLISHED . . . . . . . 1901_.

                   •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

                       HIGH CLASS DYEING & CLEANING
                                   and
                          GENERAL LAUNDRY WORK.

                   _Expert Shirt and Collar Dressers_.

                [Picture: Picture of the Cheshunt Laundry]

                 Head Office:—91, HIGH STREET, CHESHUNT.

               _Orders Collected and Delivered Free by our_
                               _own Vans_.

                      LARGE OPEN AIR DRYING GROUNDS.

                    EXCELLENT REFERENCES CAN BE GIVEN.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP.
HOLLAND & BARRETT,
Waltham Cross,
TEA DEALERS.


                            HOLLAND & BARRETT,
                                Cheshunt,
                               TEA DEALERS.

                            HOLLAND & BARRETT,
                              Waltham Abbey,
                        BAKERS AND CONFECTIONERS.

                                * * * * *



Special Notice.


_To_ . . .

  Town Clerks,
  Clerks of Local Authorities,
        Secretaries of Advertising and
        Town Improvement Committees.

If you are interested in a District to which you wish to draw Public
Attention, and think that it would be helped by the issue of a
well-illustrated “Homeland Handbook,” write to the General Manager, The
Homeland Association for the Encouragement of Touring in Great Britain,
Association House, 22, Bride Lane, Fleet St., London, E.C.

                                * * * * *



THE . . .
Homeland Readers.


                        _By M. T. YATES_, _LL.D._

             With numerous Illustrations, Maps and Diagrams.

THE HOMELAND READERS, for Council and all Public and Private Schools, are
issued by the Homeland Association, which is doing so much to encourage
Touring at Home in the Motherland of our Empire, and in widening our
knowledge of Great Britain, by publishing a series of Handbooks
containing useful and interesting information relating to towns and
country districts in various parts of the land.  This “national and
patriotic work” has not only received the commendation of the King, but
his Majesty has authorised a copy of each volume issued by the
Association to be sent to him.

THE HOMELAND READERS, like the Homeland Hand-books, contain a description
of the most striking Geographical and Natural features, with particulars
of the History, Traditions, Antiquities, Worthies, and Industries of each
County.  The treatment of the subject is very simple and, as far as
possible, all difficulties are explained as they occur.  The First, or
Junior Book, for children under 10 years of age, contains but few
place-names.  Only the chief features and events are given, with
sufficient details to awaken interest and impart life and colour.  The
Second, or Senior Book, for older children, is as comprehensive and
exhaustive as the space will allow.

            Book I.—STORIES of SURREY.  Cloth Boards, 1/- net.
         Book II.—The COUNTY of SURREY.  Cloth boards.  1/3 net.

                PUBLISHED FOR THE HOMELAND ASSOCIATION BY
                   RUDD & CO., 12, Ludgate Square, E.C.

                                * * * * *



Where to Stay at Waltham Abbey.
NEW INN COMMERCIAL HOTEL,


  Sun Street, . . . . . . . .
  WALTHAM ABBEY.

                        _The House for Catering_.
                  ESTIMATES GIVEN FOR DINNERS, TEAS, &c.

     [Picture: Photograph of New Inn Commercial Hotel, Waltham Abbey]

                 NEW INN COMMERCIAL HOTEL, WALTHAM ABBEY.

                   SPLENDID ACCOMMODATION FOR CYCLISTS.
                         (Private Entrance, etc.)
             Wines, Spirits and Cigars of the Finest Quality.

                  Proprietor . . . . . . . P. G. HULME.

                                * * * * *



THE COCK HOTEL,
. . . WALTHAM ABBEY.

        Wines            [Picture: Photograph           Every
         and              of the Cock Hotel,         convenience
       Spirits              Waltham Abbey]               for
        of the                                         Motorist
       Highest                                           and
       Quality.                                        Cyclist.

        Finest                                        Excellent
        Brands                                         Stabling
          of                                        Accommodation.
       Cigars.

             _CLOSE TO THE ABBEY AND OPPOSITE THE TOWN HALL_.

            A MOST CONVENIENT HOTEL FOR VISITORS TO THE TOWN.

   All Parties Catered for. . . . Fully Licensed for Music and Dancing.

     Large Room suitable for Masonic Purposes, Smoking Concerts, etc.

                 _Apply to_ F. K. WARD (Late H. M. Service), _Proprietor_.

                                * * * * *



MCMULLEN & SONS, Ltd.,
Brewers, Wine and Spirit Merchants.


                     [Picture: The Hertford Brewery]

                          THE HERTFORD BREWERY.

                         ••••••••••••••••••••••••

                             FAMILY PALE ALE,
       18 gallons, 18/-       9 gallons, 9/-       4½ gallons, 4/6
                           INVIGORATING STOUT,
                           IN CASK AND BOTTLE.

                         ••••••••••••••••••••••••

                   GAIRLOCH GOLDEN MALT SCOTCH WHISKY.

     The large and increasing demand for this Pure Whisky proves how
                     much its quality is appreciated.

                         Per dozen . . . . . 42/-

                                * * * * *

                       Stores . . . WALTHAM ABBEY.

                                * * * * *



All Seeds and Bulbs sent carriage and packing free on receipt of
remittance.


[Picture: Graphic heading for Barr’s Superior Seeds for Flowers & Kitchen
                                 Garden]

                            BARR’S SEED GUIDE

Contains a Select List of the best Seeds for securing a supply of
Vegetables “The Year Round,” and a full Descriptive List of the most
beautiful Annuals and Perennials for keeping the Flower Garden and
Greenhouse always gay.  It is full of Practical Hints on the culture of
Vegetables and Flowers, valuable to Gardeners, Amateurs and Exhibitors.
_Sent free on Application_.

                                * * * * *

                          BARR’S COLLECTIONS OF
                        SUPERIOR VEGETABLE SEEDS.

      5/6, 7/6, 12/6, 21/-, 42/-, 63/- to 105/-  Full particulars on
                               application.

                                * * * * *

                          BARR’S COLLECTIONS OF
                           CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS.

  2/6, 5/6, 7/6, 10/6, 15/-, 21/-, 30/-, 42/-, 63/-  Full particulars on
                               application.

     [Picture: Graphic heading for Barr’s Beautiful Hardy Gold Medal
            Daffodils.  The most lovely of all Spring Flowers]

BARR’S DAFFODILS were awarded the only GOLD MEDAL at the Royal
Horticultural Society’s First Great Daffodil Conference, 1884; PREMIER
PRIZE, 1894; GOLD MEDAL, 1896; GOLD MEDAL, 1899; TWO GOLD MEDALS, FIRST
PRIZE, and £10 10s. CHALLENGE CUP, 1901; TWO GOLD MEDALS, 1902; GOLD
MEDAL, 1903; GOLD MEDAL, 1904; GOLD MEDAL, 1905; also many Silver and
Silver-gilt Medals, Certificates, etc., at the London and Country Flower
Shows.

BARR’S 21s. AMATEUR’S COLLECTION OF DAFFODILS contains 6 Bulbs each of 26
high-class Daffodils, all beautiful.

BARR’S 21s. “WOODLAND” COLLECTION contains 500 Daffodils in 20 fine showy
varieties, suitable for naturalizing in grass, shrubberies, etc.

                                * * * * *

                       BARR’S COLLECTIONS OF BULBS
                         FOR INDOORS AND OUTDOORS

BARR’S 21s. “GREENHOUSE” COLLECTION contains 300 Spring-flowering Bulbs
of finest quality.

BARR’S 21s. “FLOWER GARDEN” COLLECTION contains 600 Spring and
Summer-flowering Bulbs, all decorative.

BARR’S 21s. “WOODLAND” COLLECTION contains 800 Bulbs, suitable to
naturalize in Woodlands, Orchards, Wild Gardens, etc.

 For full particulars of the above and other Collections, see Barr’s Bulb
                                Catalogue.

      BARR & SONS, 11, 12 & 13, KING STREET, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON.

       Nurseries:—DITTON HILL, SURBITON, SURREY.  Visitors Invited.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM CROSS.
. . MILK . .


                       _Delivered Direct from the_
                         _Farm to the Consumer_.

                              A. C. WITHERS.
                      69, York Road, Waltham Cross.

                                * * * * *



JAMES GLENDENING,


                          COAL AND COKE MERCHANT
                        FACTOR AND COLLIERY AGENT,
                              WALTHAM CROSS.

                                * * * * *

                     GLENDENING’S COALS FOR COMFORT.

                                * * * * *



You cannot MOVE without it.


                       WHERE TO LIVE ROUND LONDON.

  An A B C Guide to 90 Districts on the Southern side of London.—Rates,
  Price of Gas, Subsoils, Schools, Agents, invaluable information, with
               Coloured Geological Map.  2s. 6d. post free.

                        THE HOMELAND ASSOCIATION,
                    22, Bride Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM CROSS.
_When you want_ . . .
Boots and Shoes


you will be well GUIDED if you go to

                             F. BUTTERFIELD,
                          The Cash Boot Stores,
                              WALTHAM CROSS.

                With every CHANGING SEASON you will there
                       find a very Large Variety of

                        Up-to-Date Boots and Shoes
                           . . suitable for . .
                       _ANY POSSIBLE REQUIREMENT_.

  ALWAYS the Latest Shapes,
  ALWAYS the Best Possible Value,

                            NO JOB LINES, but

  ALWAYS the Very Best Lines in Footwear

that can be secured for money.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM CROSS.
COALS!  COALS!


                              Best Qualities
                                    AT
                              Lowest Prices.

                             J.& H. GIRLING.

                                * * * * *

                      Depot: WALTHAM CROSS STATION.

                                * * * * *

              Office—79, Eleanor Cross Road, Waltham Cross.

                                * * * * *



_For BOOTS and SHOES_
GO TO
H. BOWEY.


          A good variety of Ladies’ and Gent.’s BOOTS and SHOES
                       for best wear kept in stock.

  STRONG RELIABLE BOOTS for WORKING MEN.

  Also SCHOOL BOOTS for CHILDREN . . . . .

                                * * * * *

                          REPAIRS A SPECIALITY.

                                * * * * *

                     175, High Street, Waltham Cross.

                                * * * * *

             Posters.               Telegrams:—
            Handbills.
            Billheads.                “Welsford, Waltham Cross.”
              Memos.
           Time Sheets.                         * * * * *
          Prospectuses.
            Circulars.              H. WELSFORD,
            Pamphlets.
         Balance Sheets.              _Caxton_ . .
           Programmes.                _Steam_ . .
          Note Headings.              _Printing_ . .
          Testimonials.               _Works_ . .
             Sermons.
         Visiting Cards.            WALTHAM CROSS.
         Business Cards.
        Invitation Cards.                       * * * * *
          Wedding Cards.
           Xmas Cards.              Good Commercial . . .
         Mourning Cards.            Printing at Moderate . . .
          Receipt Books.            Prices. . . .
           Order Books.
         Delivery Books.            Up-to-date Plant . .  .
            Etc., Etc.
                                    Prompt Delivery . . .

                                    No Order too large . . .

                                    Office of the . . .
                                    Waltham and Cheshunt . . .
                                    Pocket Time Table . . .

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM CROSS.
D. J. CARTER,


                              WILLOW DEALER,
                    Cricket and Lawn Tennis Outfitter,
                       109, ELEANOR CROSS ROAD, and
                            103, HIGH STREET,
                          Waltham Cross, HERTS.

                                * * * * *

                  EVERY DESCRIPTION OF INDOOR & OUTDOOR
                        SPORTS AND GAMES SUPPLIED.

                          REPAIRS A SPECIALITY.

                                * * * * *

              The following Makers’ Goods can be supplied at
                      the shortest possible notice:

                                 MESSRS.
               F. H. AYRES; BREEDON; F. SURRIDGE; CLAPSHAW;
                    FRANK BRYAN; DUKE & SON; W. SYKES;
                 FELTHAM & CO.; GRADIDGE & SONS; VAUGHAN;
                  GUNN & MOORE; QUAIFE BROS.; ODD & SON;
                  T. H. PROSSER & SONS; WINDETT & SMITH;
                        RILEY & CO.; WISDEN & CO.

                       D. J. CARTER’S Cricket Bats,
              The Slogger, 10/6 each.  The Ideal, 12/6 each.
             Perfection, 15/- each.  The Autocrat, 18/6 each.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM CROSS.
METCALFE’S EMPORIUM,
_Established 1877_,


                 For Furniture, Bedding, Carpets, Sewing
               Machines, Wringers, Mangles, Wedding Rings,
               Jewellery, Watches, Clocks, Drapery, Ladies’
               Jackets, Mantles, Dress Goods, Under Linen,
                 Baby Linen, Musical Instruments, Pianos,
               Gramophones, Musical Boxes, Boots and Shoes.
                 Men’s, Boys’ and Youths’ Clothing, ready
               made and to measure, fit guaranteed.  Every
                       requisite for the Household.

Pay for a complete home or any single article by easiest of easy
instalments, or 5 per cent. discount for cash.  A pair of Boots for 6d.
per week.  A good Silver Watch for 1/- per week.  A Piano for 2/6 per
week.  20/- worth of Goods for 6d. per week.  A Suit of Clothes for 1/-
per week.

                                * * * * *

_NOTICE_.—_Any of the above-mentioned goods_, _and others too numerous to
mention_, _kept in stock_.  _A visit is respectfully solicited_, _or
price of goods will be sent on application_.

                                * * * * *

NOTE THE ADDRESS:

                               W. METCALFE,
                HOUSE FURNISHER, GENERAL DRAPER, CLOTHIER,
                         BOOT & SHOE MERCER, &c.,

                   WALTHAM NEW TOWN, WALTHAM CROSS, N.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM CROSS.
General and Fancy Drapery,
R. H. MARLOW.


MILLINERY, HOSIERY,
HABERDASHERY, BOOTS
AND SHOES.

TERMS—CASH on or
before Delivery.

                                                              POST OFFICE,
                                                                       149
                                                        Eleanor Cross Rd.,
                                                         WALTHAM NEW TOWN.

                                        ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

                            Straw Hats and Bonnets Trimmed Free of Charge.

                                * * * * *



Works: STATION ROAD.


                              T. C. HOWARD,
                     Carpenter, Builder & Decorator,
                              7, YORK ROAD,
                            WALTHAM CROSS, N.

                            •••••••••••••••••
              All kinds of Drainage and Sanitary Work done.
                            •••••••••••••••••

            _Estimates given for all kinds of House Repairs_.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM CROSS.
H. J. BOLTON,
_Cowkeeper and Dairy Farmer_,
WALTHAM CROSS.


                PURE NEW MILK SUPPLIED FROM HIS OWN COWS,
                               . . ALSO . .
                  STERILIZED & HUMANISED MILK TO ORDER.

                          Always obtainable at:
                 DAIRY FARM, STATION ROAD, WALTHAM CROSS;
              THE DAIRY, No. 171, HIGH ROAD, WALTHAM CROSS;
                No. 25, HIGHBRIDGE STREET, WALTHAM ABBEY.

All Cream supplied is “Separator Skimmed,” and all Butter sold is made
from “Separated” Cream.  Ice is manufactured on the premises with water
supplied by the Metropolitan Water Board.

All Milk supplied is now passed through a Filter, which removes all
sediment, and which is far superior to the old-fashioned strainer.

                      ALL ORDERS PROMPTLY EXECUTED.

                                * * * * *



WALTER LAWRENCE & SON,
BUILDING . . . . .
CONTRACTORS.


_HEAD OFFICE_:—

  Canal Works,
  Waltham Cross, N.

AND AT

  Moselle Works,
  Tottenham, N.

NAT. TEL. 5, WALTHAM CROSS.  1741, TOTTENHAM.

                                                         ESTABLISHED 1871.

                                * * * * *



FUNERALS PERSONALLY CONDUCTED.
STRICTLY MODERATE CHARGES.


                             WILLIAM H. MASH,

        [Picture: Photograph of William H. Marsh’s establishment]

                 FUNERAL FURNISHER and MONUMENTAL MASON.

                  230, High St., and 18, Trinity Villas,
                              WALTHAM CROSS.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT CHESHUNT.
H. C. WALSH,


Cycle and = = =
Motor = =
Works,

                                                                 Cheshunt,
                                                                    Herts.

                                * * * * *



_Established 1717_.
RICHARD GATER & SONS,
UNDERTAKERS, UPHOLSTERERS,


             Cabinet Makers, French Polishers, Paper Hangers,
                      and General House Decorators.

                                * * * * *

                      CONTRACTORS FOR HOUSE REPAIRS.

                                * * * * *

                                  NOTE—
                  84, King Edward’s Rd., Waltham Cross,
                                HERTS, N.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT CHESHUNT.
_E. ROPER_,


                                                             Cowkeeper and
                                                             Dairy Farmer,

                       [Picture: Drawing of a cow]

                            Crossbrook house,
                          High Street, CHESHUNT.

                                * * * * *

                        Claremont Farm, GOFFS OAK.

Butter, Eggs and Cream.

                    Families waited upon twice daily.

                                                Cows kept on the Premises.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT CHESHUNT.
91, TURNER’S HILL, CHESHUNT, HERTS.
AUG. J. HALL.


                Printing, Stationery, Fancy Goods & Toys.

                           Large assortment of
                  LOCAL POST CARDS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.

                      ROYAL DEVONSHIRE ART POTTERY.

                Bookbinding, Relief Stamping, Copper-plate
                                Printing.

               _Letterpress Printing done ON THE PREMISES_.
         Newspapers and Periodicals delivered.  Lending Library.
                   AGENT FOR PULLARS’ DYE WORKS, PERTH.

                                * * * * *

                    ORDERS BY POST PROMPTLY EXECUTED.

                                * * * * *



The Model
DAIRY,
17, TURNER’S HILL,
CHESHUNT.


                 Special Pure Rich Milk, Butter and Eggs
                          DELIVERED TWICE DAILY,
                                 FROM THE
                          DAIRY AT NETHER HALL.

                                * * * * *

                                                A. E. SWANTON, Proprietor.

                                * * * * *



_Cheshunt Funeral Establishment_.


                           DISTANCE NO OBJECT.

                             A. G. NICHOLAS,
                          FURNISHING UNDERTAKER,
                           189, TURNER’S HILL,
                         (Opposite Moray Place).
                    _MEMORIALS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION_.
   Office of Church of England Temperance and General Permanent Benefit
                            Building Society.
           Telegraphic Address: Nicholas, Undertaker, Cheshunt.

                                * * * * *

Of the many classes of business called into requisition by the
requirements of mundane existence, that of the Funeral Furnisher demands
an interest which it is seldom accorded.  This is, however, not the
correct position to adopt in what is an eminently practical age, so, at
least, we are taught to believe; and, therefore, we should not disdain
knowledge on so important a subject.

                                * * * * *

In the district of Cheshunt no name is more intimately associated with
funeral furnishing than that of Mr. A. G. Nicholas, and no house has made
a more thorough study of the details of the business so as to entail upon
the relatives and friends of the deceased the minimum amount of trouble
and discomfort.  Over twenty years ago witnessed his initial steps in
founding what is now the only business which makes a speciality of this
class of work, as the premises recently constructed at 189, Turner’s Hill
make sufficiently plain to the passer-by.  Commencing business as a
joiner, builder, and undertaker at the period mentioned, the marked
development of the latter department—as witness the many interments of
deceased persons—has induced Mr. Nicholas to give special attention to
this branch, which includes cremating and embalming, the erecting of all
descriptions of monumental masonry, surveys of property, and transactions
in all forms of life and other insurance, agencies being held for many
leading companies.

When we consider the opportunity which the undertaker possesses for
exercising influence upon persons under great mental strain, it will be
seen how essential it is that they should be men who are above suspicion.
Happily, however, the morale of the business has greatly improved, which
is due in a large measure to the standard of the tradesmen who may be
said to be representative of their calling.

                              Cromwell Cottages, Cheshunt, June 5th, 1891.

Dear Mr. Nicholas.—On behalf of myself and the rest of our family, I wish
to thank you for the way in which you conducted the funeral of my mother
and brother.  I am sure you studied our feelings in every possible way,
and we all think the charges very moderate indeed.  Again thanking you,—I
remain, yours truly,

                                                                H. NORRIS.

                                  King’s Road, Doncaster, June 22nd, 1895.

Dear Sir,—P.O.O. for the balance of your account enclosed.  Thanking you
for the nice quiet way in which the interment was conducted,—Yours
faithfully,

                                                                H. BEAVAN.

                                               Wimbledon, April 1st, 1904.

Dear Mr. Nicholas,—I feel that I must write to thank you for your great
kindness to us in our trouble, and for the kind help you gave to save us
bother in every possible way you could.  I cannot express to you all I
feel about it; but, believe me, my sisters and I will never forget your
kindness to us; and if there were just a few more about as ready as
yourself to lend a helping hand, the world might be a happier one.—With
very kind regards, I am yours sincerely,

                                                              EMILY NEALE.

                                                    Oxted, May 15th, 1904.

Dear Mr. Nicholas,—I had not an opportunity of seeing you yesterday, to
thank you for undertaking the removal of the body of my poor brother, and
for the great trouble it must have put you to.  I can assure you that you
have all our sincere thanks, and we quite appreciate all the difficulties
you must have had to contend with.  Now he is at rest, we can also rest.
You will, I am sure, know how we can and do appreciate this after such an
anxious and trying time as last week.  We could not do this but for the
trouble you must have taken for us.—Yours very truly,

                                                               E. A. SWAN.

                                        Leyton, Essex, October 29th, 1904.

Mr. Nicholas.  Dear Sir,—I beg to offer my sincere thanks for the trouble
you have taken in connection with the interment of my deceased father on
the 27th inst., for the nice way in which your arrangements were made and
carried out in so quiet and sympathetic a manner that all the mourners
thought you had conducted the funeral in such a way that the thanks of
the family were justly due to you.  I hope you will accept these through
me, the son of the late Henry Brewster.

                                   I remain, yours sincerely, C. BREWSTER.

                                            Chiswick, December 31st, 1904.

Dear Mr. Nicholas.—Many thanks for your kindness in effecting the
purchase of my late husband’s grave.  I must thank you and express my
appreciation of the able and reverent manner in which the funeral
arrangements were carried out, and with kind regards, I remain yours
faithfully,

                                                              EMMA OLIVER.

      Insurance          [Picture: Mr. A. G.           Builder
        Agent.                 Nicolas]                  and
                                                     Contractor.
      Fire, Life
         and                                          Estimates
      Accident.                                          for
                                                       Repairs.

                                                        Rents
                                                      Collected.

The local “Weekly Telegraph,” reporting the funeral of the late Mr. R. T.
Gardner, in 1899, who was for twenty-five years rate collector of the
Parish of Cheshunt, mentioned the fact that the arrangements were
undertaken by Mr. Nicholas, at the request of the deceased, made shortly
before his death.

The following has reference to one of Mr. Nicholas’s building
transactions:

                                                      Willesden Lane, N.W.

Dear Mr. Nicholas,—I am in receipt of your account, which I think
reasonable.  I enclose a cheque for £50.  Thanking you for the personal
interest which you took in the work, and the highly successful way in
which it was carried out,—With kind regards, yours faithfully,

                                                       HERBERT T. ANDREWS.

        The originals of the above letters are open to inspection.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT CHESHUNT.
GEO. BLAXLAND,
THE CITY TAILOR,
_Hatter_, _Hosier & Gentlemen’s Outfitter_.


               [Picture: Photograph of G. Blaxland’s shop]

                               MEN’S WEAR.

                     Best Makes and Newest Shapes in
               HATS & CAPS, RAINPROOF COATS & CYCLE CAPES.

_All New Designs for this_          _Tailoring a Speciality_.
_Season_                            _Perfect Fit Guaranteed_.
_Newest Styles in Ready-_           _A Large Selection of Ties_,
_made Suits_, _in Large_            _Gloves_, _Shirts_, _Collars and
_Variety_                           Hosiery_

               JUVENILE AND YOUTHS’ CLOTHING, IN ALL SIZES.

                                * * * * *

                         TURNER’S MILL, CHESHUNT.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT CHESHUNT.
C. & A. BLAXLAND,
FAMILY GROCERS,
Wine, Spirit, Beer & provision Merchants.


             [Picture: Photograph of C. & A. Blaxland’s shop]

                    DEALERS IN CORN AND POULTRY FOOD.
                       _AGENTS FOR W. & A. GILBEY_.

       Bass’s Pale Ale, Guinness’s Stout.  Barrett’s, Whitbread’s,
        Fremlin’s and Truman’s Ale and Stout in Bottles and Casks.

                            PATENT MEDICINES.

                                * * * * *

                                CHESHUNT.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT CHESHUNT.
T. BONES,
Florist and Nurseryman
HIGH STREET, CHESHUNT.


                 WREATHS, CROSSES, WEDDING BOUQUETS, and
             other Floral Arrangements, made of the Choicest
                     Flowers, on the Shortest Notice.

              FRESH CUT FLOWERS, in variety, ALWAYS AT HAND.
                      _PRICES TO SUIT ALL CLASSES_.
          BEDDING PLANTS, etc., at Lowest Prices for Good Stuff.

                                * * * * *

              ORDERS BY POST WILL RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION.

                                * * * * *



ROBERT ARCHER,
Builder, House Decorator and Undertaker,


                         (Established 70 Years.)
                   ESTIMATES FOR ALL KINDS OF REPAIRS.

         Funerals conducted to or from all parts of the Country.

                DESIGNS SUBMITTED AND MEMORIALS SUPPLIED.
                    Telegrams—“ARCHER, WALTHAM CROSS.”

                        Office: 43, TURNER’S HILL.

                                * * * * *



ROLAND R. ARCHER,

43,                                 Plans, Specifications
TURNER’S HILL,                      and Detail Drawings
CHESHUNT.                           prepared for New
                                    Buildings, Alterations
                                    and Additions at
                                    Reasonable Fees.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT CHESHUNT.
J. EDWIN GAZE, M.P.S.


                          (_Late HOPPER & Co._)
                      Dispensing and Family Chemist,
                       77, Turner’s Hill, Cheshunt.

                                * * * * *

                          STORE PRICES FOR CASH.
                    _PHOTOGRAPHIC GOODS A SPECIALITY_.

                                * * * * *

                         DARK ROOM FOR AMATEURS.
                — _DEVELOPING AND PRINTING UNDERTAKEN_. —

                                * * * * *



CHESHUNT BUN HOUSE.
J. L. STOREY,
Bread and Biscuit Baker,
—_PASTRYCOOK AND CONFECTIONER_, —


                     Turner’s Hill, CHESHUNT, HERTS.

                                * * * * *

             Genuine Home-Made Bread.  Peak Frean’s Biscuits.
               Rowntree’s, Fry’s and Cadbury’s Chocolates.

                                * * * * *

                     — FAMILIES WAITED UPON DAILY. —

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM ABBEY.
M. CUTHBERT,
Stationer and Newsagent,
13, SUN ST., WALTHAM ABBEY.


                        LOCAL VIEWS A SPECIALITY.
         GIANT POST CARDS, 12 ins. by 9 ins., of THE ABBEY, Etc.,
                                3d. Each.

                                * * * * *

                  A VERY LARGE AND VARIED ASSORTMENT OF
                          LOCAL VIEW POST CARDS.

                          — CALL AND INSPECT. —

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM ABBEY.
WM. PALLETT, Junr.,
Corn and Seed Merchant,
_WALTHAM ABBEY_.


                                * * * * *

                      Office and Retail Department—
                         34, HIGH BRIDGE STREET.
                           Mills and Granaries—
                             NEAR THE ABBEY.

                                * * * * *



WILLIAM PALLETT, JUNR.


                        _Stationer_, _Newsagent_,
                                  _and_
                           _Fancy Toy Dealer_,

                       CHURCH-YARD, WALTHAM ABBEY.

                     Picture Framing and Bookbinding.
                     FISHING TACKLE IN GREAT VARIETY.

                                * * * * *

             _Photographs of Churches and Places of Interest_
                         _in the Neighbourhood_.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM ABBEY.
MELLODEW & COCKS,


                       _22_, _Sewardstone Street_,

                                                          _WALTHAM ABBEY_.

 [Picture: Photograph of Mellodew & Cocks, Grocers & Provision Merchants]

       For the Best of Everything in . . . Grocery and Provisions.

                       THE CHEAPEST MONEY CAN BUY.

Trading Stamps                      Families Waited
Given Gratis . . .                  on Daily . . . . . .

WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM ABBEY.
_W. CLAYDEN_,
Corn, Forage,
Flour, and Seed Merchant.


                      NOTED FOR MIDLOTHIAN OATMEAL.

                                * * * * *

                                 TRY OUR
                           SELF-RAISING FLOUR.

                                * * * * *

                       _PASTRY FLOUR A SPECIALITY_.

                                * * * * *

                       SPRATT’S PATENT POULTRY AND
                                DOG FOODS.

                                * * * * *

                               ALL KINDS OF
                       BIRD SEEDS AND OTHER FOODS.
                            POULTRY MIXTURES.

                                * * * * *

                    ALL GOODS ARE OF THE BEST QUALITY.

                                * * * * *

                      18, SUN STREET, WALTHAM ABBEY.

                                * * * * *



WALTHAM ABBEY STORES.
HORACE PEMBLE,
SUN STREET, WALTHAM ABBEY.


Draper, Milliner, Outfitter, Tailor, Hatte
Hosier, and General House Furnisher.

  COOPER AND SON’S NOTED “BEEHIVE”
  BOOTS AND SHOES.

AGENT FOR BERRIE’S
MANCHESTER
DYEING
WORKS.

                                                                   Grocer,
                                                                Provision,
                                                           Wine, Beer, and
                                                          Spirit Merchant.

                                    Peek, Frean’s, and McVitie and Price’s
                                            Celebrated Cakes and Biscuits.
                           Pickles, Sauces, and Jams.  Brushes and Brooms.
                                         Patent Medicines at Store Prices.

                                * * * * *

                 SEWING MACHINES BY FRISTER AND ROSSMANS.
           Agent for the Royal Fire and Life Insurance Company.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT WALTHAM ABBEY.
JOHN ALPS,
50, SUN STREET, WALTHAM ABBEY.


The Oldest Ironmonger’s
      Business in
      Waltham Abbey.

  ••••••••

Manufacturer in all
   Branches of the
      Trade.

                                                              Copper, Tin,
                                                             Zinc and Iron
                                                             Plate Worker.

                                                     GASFITTER, SMITH, &c.

                                     A Good Assortment of Incandescent GAS
                                              FITTINGS, MANTLES and GLOBES
                                       always in Stock, at Popular Prices.

                                * * * * *



Repairs!  UPTON’S,  Repairs!
The Old Established
BOOT & SHOE WAREHOUSE.


                       ESTABLISHED OVER 100 YEARS.

Well selected Stock of . . .

             LADIES’, GENT’S AND CHILDREN’S BOOTS AND SHOES.

Superior Hand-Sewn Boots and Shoes made to measure.

                      1, CHURCH ST., WALTHAM ABBEY.

                                * * * * *



W. CASTELLO,
Waltham Cross
Cigar Stores . .


                        (OPPOSITE IMPERIAL CLUB).

                 _The Three Graces of the Tobacco World_—

                       Temple Bar (Latakia) Smoking
                    Mixture, Old Virginia (Hand-made)
                      Cigarettes, Old Virginia Shag,
                     pronounced by Experts to be the
                                very best.

                                * * * * *



Homeland Handbook, No. 43.


                                 HERTFORD
                          AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.

                       With Notes on the Country of
                      Charles Lamb and Izaak Walton.

                          WITH MAP AND 48 VIEWS.

                         1/- Net.  Postage, 2½d.

                   Of all Booksellers or the Publishers
                             of this Volume.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO GO AT HIGH BEECH.


                          FOR LUNCHEONS AND TEAS
                                 GO TO A
                            TEMPERANCE HOUSE.

                           Roserville Retreat,
                               HIGH BEECH.

           Excursions, Parties, Sunday Schools, Bands of Hope,
          Cycling Clubs and Guilds will find Clean, Comfortable,
                      and Economical Accommodation.

                                * * * * *

             High Level Situation.  Fresh Air.  Finest View.
              Swings and Roundabouts and every Amusement for
                           People of all ages.

            _Full Particulars sent on receipt of a Post Card_.

                                * * * * *

                                 ADDRESS—
                              WILLIAM TOZER,
                               Proprietor.

                                * * * * *



Do you use Automatic
Gas or Oil Lamps?


              N.B.—There were 142 Explosions by Oil Lamps in
             London alone last year, involving loss of life.

An OIL LAMP burns ONE PENNYWORTH OF PARAFFIN OIL in 8 hours, and gives a
light equal to only 16 Candles.  It is much dearer than a GEM GAS BURNER,
which makes ONE PENNYWORTH OF AUTOMATIC GAS last about 12 hours, and
gives a light equal to 30 Candles.  In fact a Gem Burner is nearly equal
to 4 Oil Lamps.  That is to say, a Gem Burner will give you about as much
light for a Farthing as an Oil Lamp will give for a 1d.

AUTOMATIC GAS costs you nothing for fitting it up.  The Gas Company
instal it free of all cost.  The following fittings are supplied free for
your use:—

  One Swing Bracket for Hall Light.

  One Pendant or Bracket for Sitting Room.

  One ,, ,, Kitchen.

  One Swing Bracket for Bedroom.

  One Boiling Ring and Tube to boil Kettle, etc.

By payment of 5s. for fixing you can have a good Gas Cooker Free of any
Rental, or a better one for 10d. a month.

Remember Automatic Gas saves a lot of worry and trouble in the house.
Half-an-hour’s more rest instead of getting up earlier to light the fire.
The Oil Man need not call.  No dust or ashes, and no Dustman to call for
them.  The Coal Man need not call.  No bundles of firewood wanted.  You
simply put your penny in the slot and the Gasworks does the rest.

                                * * * * *

                    For further particulars apply to—
                  THE WALTHAM ABBEY & CHESHUNT GAS CO.,
                        York Road, Waltham Cross.

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO SHOP AT CHESHUNT.
HERBERT BEEDELL


             [Picture: Photograph of Herbert Beedell’s shop]

                    The House for Smart and Up-to-date

MILLINERY!                                     Prompt
                                             Attention.
                       DRESSMAKING!
      Prices                                        COSTUMES!
     Moderate

                        GENERAL AND FANCY DRAPERY.

                                * * * * *

                             HERBERT BEEDELL,
                            DRAPER AND HOSIER,
                        CHESHUNT HOUSE, CHESHUNT,

                                * * * * *



WHERE TO STAY AT WALTHAM CROSS.
Ye Olde Foure Swannes
COMMERCIAL HOTEL.


             _Two Minutes from Station_.  _ESTABLISHED 1260_.

             Best Livery and Posting House in Hertfordshire.

              [Picture: Photograph of Ye Olde Foure Swannes]

              GOOD ACCOMMODATION FOR LARGE OR SMALL PARTIES.

                                * * * * *

        Cyclists specially catered for.  Lock-up Shed for Cycles.

                                * * * * *

                 Hot Luncheons every day from 1 to 2 p.m.
                         Teas Served on the Lawn.

                                * * * * *

                   Proprietors — — — IGGULDEN & CAIRNS.

                                * * * * *



Footnotes.


{ii}  In the printed book advertisements run from page ii. to the
_McMullen & Sons_ advertisement inclusive, then the main book occurs, and
then the advertisements resume with _Barr’s Superior Seeds_.  In this
eBook all of the advertisements have been moved to the end but otherwise
occur in the original order and with the original page numbers.  The fold
out map has been moved from the first set of advertisements—DP.

{12}  There is also a “Romeland” at St. Albans, on the west side of the
Abbey.

{17}  Regnante Cnuto et Anglis Imperante in loco qui dicitur Mons Acutus
quem Lutegarsberi compatrio appelant vitam agebat in opere fabrili vit
magnae simplicitatis et bonae indolis vit sine malitia timens Deum et
recendens a malo, etc.

{18}  _i.e._ Persons.

{20}  _i.e._ To make free.





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