Stain Removal from Fabrics: Home Methods - Farmers' Bulletin No. 1474

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Title: Stain Removal from Fabrics: Home Methods - Farmers' Bulletin No. 1474
Author: Anonymous
Language: English
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METHODS ***

_Stain Removal
FROM FABRICS._

home methods

FARMERS’ BULLETIN NO. 1474
U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

To Remove Stains Successfully

TREAT THE STAIN while it is fresh.
KNOW YOUR CLOTH—What is it made of? Does it wash well?
WORK CAREFULLY but quickly.
TRY SIMPLE METHODS FIRST.
For a nongreasy stain, sponge with cold water.
For a greasy stain, try carbon tetrachloride.
AVOID HOT WATER on an unknown stain. Hot water sets many stains.
TEST FOR COLOR CHANGE on a sample of the cloth before using any stain
remover.
USE REMOVERS SPARINGLY. Many brief applications are better than one
long one.
USE LIGHT, BRUSHING MOTIONS—never rub a remover into the stain.
NEUTRALIZE acids with alkalies; alkalies with acids.
RINSE WELL—never let a chemical dry on the cloth.
SPREAD a liquid remover unevenly into the cloth around the stain.
DRY RAPIDLY to help prevent rings.

Washington, D. C.
Revised September 1942
Slightly revised April 1951

STAIN REMOVAL FROM FABRICS
HOME METHODS

by
MARGARET S. FURRY, Assistant Textile Chemist

Off with stains! Keep clothes and home fabrics spotlessly clean. It is
smart and thrifty to take best care of your clothing and household
fabrics so they will look well and last as long as possible.

Many stained and spotted articles are needlessly thrown away each year.
Many others are needlessly ruined by unsuccessful attempts to remove
stains. It is possible to remove practically any stain at home by
following a few simple rules. To take proper care of your fabrics, you
will find it worthwhile to learn enough of the “know-how” skill so that
you can do a good job.

One of the most important rules is to remove the stain promptly. Stains
that become old usually require a remover so strong that it sometimes
injures the cloth.

Another important rule is to select a remover that will not harm the
cloth. If you can find out what caused the stain, this also will guide
you in choosing the remover best suited for the job.

Work carefully, patiently, quickly. Often the way in which cleaning is
done is as important as the kind of cleaning materials used, in getting
good final results.

The following pages not only tell how to remove many kinds of stains but
describe as well the general principles of stain removal.

Steps to Success in Stain Removal

Treat Stains Promptly

First rule for success in removing a stain is to start while it is
fresh, even before it dries if possible. Hot soapsuds or the heat of an
iron sets some stains too, so that it takes strong treatment to loosen
them. The professional cleaner always “spots-out” stains before he gives
a garment a general cleaning or pressing.

Suit the Remover to the Cloth

Before starting to treat a stain, be sure you know what the cloth is
made of—whether cotton, wool, silk, rayon, or a mixture. A stain remover
successful on one kind of cloth may ruin another. Naturally, you want
the method that will do the least possible damage to the cloth.

Cotton and linen

Strong acid removers destroy cotton and linen cloth; even mild acids,
such as lemon juice and vinegar, may injure cotton and linen if allowed
to remain too long on the cloth. If you use a mild acid to remove a
stain, apply a weak alkali such as ammonia water or washing or baking
soda immediately to stop the action of the acid. Wash the material in
water after the treatment. (See p. 10.) Strong alkalies harm these
materials also, but weak alkalies are safe to use if you rinse the
article well in water afterwards.

All bleaches will rot cotton and linen if allowed to remain on the stain
for more than a minute or two and will remove the color, too. Sodium
perborate and hydrogen peroxide are the safest bleaches to use.

Wool and silk

Strong acids and alkalies destroy wool or silk materials. Mild acids,
except nitric, which weakens the material and turns it yellow, are safe
to use. Even mild alkalies such as weak solutions of ammonia water,
borax, or washing soda, must be used with care on wool. Bleaches that
contain chlorine, such as ordinary bleaching powder, also destroy wool
and silk. Sodium perborate is a good bleach to use, particularly on
wool. Use lukewarm water—hot water turns both wool and silk yellow,
shrinks wool, and injures the finish of silk.

Rayon and synthetics

Here are a few safety rules to follow in removing stains from rayon
material. Never use strong acids or alkalies; they injure the material.
Mild acids or alkalies usually do not harm it if properly rinsed. Water
weakens rayon; do not pull or twist it when it is wet. Sodium perborate
and hydrogen peroxide are the safest bleaches to use, but mild chlorine
ones can be used with success.

Three kinds of rayon are made in this country—viscose, cuprammonium, and
acetate. In removing stains from viscose and cuprammonium rayon, treat
the material like cotton or linen. But acetate rayon is different. It
dissolves in acetone, alcohol, or chloroform, so test a sample of any
rayon material before using these liquids to remove a stain. Mixtures of
alcohol and ether, or alcohol and benzene also are unsafe to use on
acetate rayon or on colored material. Always mix alcohol with 2 or 3
parts of water before using it. Pressing with a hot iron may melt
acetate rayon.

Synthetic materials, such as nylon and vinyon, are not harmed by either
acids or alkalies. Water does not weaken them, as it does the rayon.
They take up very little moisture, and as a result, stains such as
coffee, tea, and fruit juice, remain on the surface and wash off easily.
You may use bleaches safely on nylon or vinyon. But vinyon, like acetate
rayon, dissolves in acetone and chloroform, so test a sample of the
material before using either of these to remove a stain. Press nylon
with a warm (not hot) iron.

Other synthetic materials are made from peanut, corn, soybean, milk
casein, and fish protein, but as yet they are not common and are not
generally recognized. Treat them as you would silk and wool in removing
stains.

Suit the Remover to the Stain

Find out what the stain is, if possible, before trying to remove it. The
wrong treatment may set a stain so that it is impossible to take it out.
Always test water or any chemical stain remover on a sample of the cloth
or on a hidden part of the garment (seam or hem) to be sure it will not
change the color. You may have to choose between the stain and a faded
spot.

Water

If the stain is not greasy, first try to remove it with cold water. Hot
water sets many stains and makes them harder to remove. Always test a
sample of the cloth to see if water spots it. If not, place a pad of
clean cloth underneath the stain, with the stain face down. To sponge,
use a soft cloth, dampen it with cold water, and cover with a layer of
dry cloth so that it is not too moist. Then sponge the stain with light,
brushing motions, working from outside of stain to the center. Spread
the moisture into the cloth around stain to keep a ring from forming.

The trick is to spread, or “feather out,” the liquid around the stain
until there is no definite edge when the material dries. It may help to
go over the spot with a cloth wet with alcohol mixed with 2 parts water.
As alcohol changes some colors and dissolves acetate rayon, use it
sparingly. Finally pat the spot with a dry cloth. Dry rapidly to prevent
water rings.

[Illustration: Sponge a nongreasy stain with water. Work from the
outside of the stain to the center. Spread moisture unevenly into
the cloth around the stain.]

[Illustration: To remove a water ring, rub the cloth between the
hands; then scratch with the fingernail.]

If a ring has formed, remove it either by sponging the material with
clean water or by shaking it in the steam from a briskly boiling
teakettle. Scratching with the fingernail or a stiff brush or rubbing
the cloth between the hands will sometimes remove a ring.

Other solvents

If a stain seems to be greasy, try a grease solvent, such as carbon
tetrachloride, Stoddard solvent, gasoline, benzene, turpentine, ether,
acetone, or alcohol. Most of these do not change the color of fabrics,
but ether, acetone, and alcohol are apt to. So use them carefully on
colored materials; always mix alcohol with 2 parts water. Either sponge
the stain with the solvent or dip into a bowl of the liquid.

To sponge a grease spot, lay the stained material, wrong side up, on a
pad of soft cloth. Apply the remover to the back of the cloth, so that
the stain is washed from the material without having to pass through it.
Sponge with a clean, soft, lintless cloth. Dip the cloth in the liquid
and wring out most of the moisture. Sponge with light, brushing motions,
working from the outside of the spot to the center. Work rapidly and use
the solvent sparingly. It is better to apply the solvent several times
quickly than to apply it once and leave it on for a long time.

[Illustration: Sponge a greasy stain with carbon tetrachloride,
gasoline, or benzene. Lay the stain face down on a pad of cloth.]

[Illustration: Use light brushing motions, working from the outside
of spot to the center. Change the pad as it becomes soiled.]

[Illustration: Sprinkle talcum, cornstarch, or chalk on a fresh
grease or oil stain. Rub it in well, and let stand until it absorbs
the grease; then brush off.]

Avoid rings by spreading the cleaning fluid into the area around the
stain and at the same time blowing lightly on the spot to dry it
quickly. Do not rub—rubbing may cause light and worn-looking spots that
are as bad as the stain. Change the pad as it becomes soiled. Finally
pat the material with a dry cloth.

Always use these solvents out of doors or in a well-ventilated room, as
it is harmful to breathe the vapors. Gasoline, naphtha, and ether catch
fire easily and often explode, so never use them near a fire. Sometimes
just rubbing a garment that is soaked with gasoline will cause it to
burst into flames. Benzene, turpentine, alcohol, and acetone also are
inflammable. For this reason, cleaning with large amounts of these
fluids at home is not recommended. Grease-spot removers made entirely or
in large part of carbon tetrachloride will not catch on fire.

Absorbent powders

Absorbent powders—chalk, talcum, corn meal, cornstarch—work well on
light, freshly made stains such as grease spots or splatters of salad
oil. Also such powders brush off readily and are safe to use on all
materials. This method is not always successful, however, if the stain
is very large or has become set or dry. To remove a stain with an
absorbent powder, lay the stained article on a table and sprinkle a
layer of the powder over the stain. Spread the powder around, and when
it becomes gummy, shake or brush it off. Repeat this several times or
until the stain disappears. If after several treatments the stain still
shows, place the stain between clean blotting papers and apply a warm
(not hot) iron for several minutes. Stains made by solid fats, such as
butter, must be melted before the blotters can absorb them.

[Illustration: Use Javelle water to bleach stains from uncolored
cotton or linen. Apply with a medicine dropper; rinse quickly in
water. Apply a few drops of “hypo,” vinegar, or oxalic acid to stop
the action of the chlorine.]

[Illustration: uncaptioned]

Bleaches

Use bleaching chemicals carefully because most bleaches remove the color
as well as the stain, besides weakening the cloth. Colored material in
particular must be treated rapidly and rinsed well in water afterwards.
Javelle water and other chlorine bleaches (sodium hypochlorite
solutions) remove certain stains from uncolored cotton, linen, or rayon
cloth. Do not use them on colored materials or on silk or wool.

To prepare Javelle water: Mix ½ pound washing soda in 1 quart of cold
water. Add ¼ pound of bleaching powder (commonly called chloride of
lime). Strain this liquid through a piece of muslin and store in a
bottle with a tight cork or stopper ready for use.

To remove a stain with Javelle water, stretch the stained part of the
cloth over a bowl filled with cold water and drop the Javelle water on
the stain with a medicine dropper. (If the stain is large, dip the
entire garment in the Javelle water). Never let the Javelle water remain
on the stain for more than 1 minute; it rots even linen and cotton
materials if allowed to remain on them longer. Rinse quickly by dipping
in the water.

Next apply a few drops of a solution made up of ½ teaspoon of sodium
thiosulfate and 1 to 2 teaspoons of vinegar in 1 pint of water. This
stops the action of the chlorine remaining in the cloth after the
treatment with Javelle water. Then rinse the cloth well in clean water.
You may use vinegar alone or oxalic acid solution (1 teaspoon oxalic
acid to 1 pint water) instead of the thiosulfate solution, but they are
not so satisfactory. To remove the stain completely you may have to
repeat the Javelle water-thiosulfate treatment several times.

Sodium perborate is one of the safest bleaches for all types of
materials. The treatment must be rapid and the sodium perborate well
rinsed from the material, however, or it will take out the color. It
will not remove some ink stains, iron rust, dyes and running color, or
metal stains.

For small, fresh stains, sponge with a liquid made up of 4 tablespoons
sodium perborate to 1 pint lukewarm water. Or stretch the stained cloth
over a bowl of hot water, dampen the stain with water, and dust the
powdered sodium perborate on it. Let stand a minute or two; then sponge
or rinse well with water.

For a large stain, soak the entire garment for a half hour or longer in
sodium perborate and soapsuds (4 tablespoons perborate to a pint of
soapy water). To remove grass, beverage, mud, scorch, and some perfume
stains, mix 1 level teaspoon sodium perborate with 1 pint hydrogen
peroxide. But use this mixture immediately, as it soon loses its
strength. Rinse in water.

Sodium perborate is particularly good to use on white woolens; it leaves
them soft and fluffy.

Hydrogen peroxide, obtained at drug stores, is a good bleach for light
scorch stains. The action of hydrogen peroxide is quicker if a few drops
of ammonia water are added just before use. Or you can add 1 level
teaspoon of either borax or sodium perborate to 1 pint of peroxide.
Apply it to the stain with a medicine dropper, a glass rod, or sponge
the stain with it. Follow by careful sponging or rinsing with water.

Oxalic acid is poisonous and should be handled carefully. Label it
“Poison” and keep it out of the reach of children. Prepare a solution as
follows: Dissolve about 3 tablespoons of the crystals of the acid in a
pint of lukewarm water. Put in a bottle, stopper tightly, and use as
needed. Stretch the stained cloth over a bowl of clean water and apply
the oxalic acid to the stain with a medicine dropper or glass rod. Allow
it to remain for a few minutes; then rinse quickly by dipping in the
water. Apply a weak solution of ammonia water, borax, or sodium
perborate to neutralize the action of the acid and rinse again. Never
use oxalic acid on weighted silk.

Hydrosulfites are very useful to remove dye stains, iron rust, ink,
mildew, grass, and fruit stains. Sodium hydrosulfite, the one most often
used, may be bought at drug stores under many trade names as a dye or
color remover for preparing cloth for redyeing. It should be stored in a
tightly closed can so it will not become damp. To use, dissolve 2
teaspoons of the sodium hydrosulfite in 1 pint of warm water and either
sponge or dip the stained article in it. Or sponge the stain with water
first, sprinkle the powder on the stain, and work it in well with the
fingers. Rinse quickly. If used on colored material, hydrosulfites are
apt to remove the color; so apply the treatment quickly and rinse well
in water afterwards. Do not use on weighted silks.

Pepsin and other enzymes

Enzymes will remove certain stains from all kinds of materials. You can
buy pepsin, the best known of the enzymes, at the drug store. It softens
stains containing albumin (found in blood, gelatin, glues, certain
medicines, eggs, milk, and ice cream), so that they wash out in water
easily. Pepsin will soften these stains, even after they have been set
by heat or alcohol. First be sure there is no soap or other alkali on
the stain, or the enzyme will not react. Then dampen the stain with
lukewarm water and sprinkle with pepsin powder. Let it stand for half an
hour, keeping the spot damp. Or mix the pepsin with water (2 teaspoons
to 1 pint lukewarm water) and sponge the stain with it. Sponge or rinse
well with water.

Soaps and synthetic detergents

Soaps and synthetic detergents (nonsoap cleaners) are helpful in
removing grease and food spots, blood, and many other stains. For
washing silks and woolens, select a mild soap. One with added alkaline
salts may cause the colors to run and the cloth to become stiff and
harsh. Also use a mild soap on all other delicate materials and on
cotton, especially on those that are not guaranteed colorfast. If you
are washing in hard water, add a water softener such as one of the
special phosphates—sodium hexametaphosphate or tetrasodium pyrophosphate
(sold under brand names)—which prevent the formation of hard-water scum.
This scum is caused by the reaction of the soap and the calcium and
magnesium compounds in the water. It settles on the clothes in gray or
brown specks that are hard to remove.

Synthetic detergents come in powder, paste, and liquid form. Most of
them suds and lather well, although a few clean without sudsing. They do
not make a scum with hard water.

Synthetic detergents, like soaps, may be mild or alkaline. The mild
synthetics are excellent for washing silks and fine fabrics, blankets,
and sweaters. They are relatively safe for colors. The alkaline
synthetics, which contain alkaline salts to aid in soil removal, are
all-purpose washing agents for washing heavily soiled garments.

The nonalkaline detergents can be used in place of glycerine to loosen
fresh tannin stains made by soft drinks and some fresh fruits. The other
type should not be used because alkali tends to set tannin stains. Soap,
even the mild type, is also alkaline enough to set these stains.

There are also special dry-cleaning soaps or benzene soaps, which, added
to dry-cleaning fluid, aid in softening the stain and removing the dirt.
Or, to soften a heavy grease or wax stain, put these soaps directly on
the stain, especially on silk and wool cloth. Then rinse well in carbon
tetrachloride, Stoddard solvent, gasoline, or benzene.

Stain-Removal Supplies

Keep all stain removers together on a handy shelf, but out of the reach
of children. Label all the jars and bottles; be sure to mark “_Poison_”
plainly on the poisonous ones. To have a complete shelf, you will need
to keep at least three kinds of cleaning agents—bleaches, absorbent
powders, grease solvents.

Absorbent powders—for grease spots or ink stains.
Chalk, corn meal, talcum powder, or cornstarch.
Acetic acid—10-percent solution. (Vinegar is about 5 percent acetic
acid and can be used to remove alkalis, to stop the action of
Javelle water, and to restore some colors.)
Ammonia water—10-percent solution.
Bleaches
JAVELLE WATER—for white cotton, linen, or rayon only.
SODIUM PERBORATE—for any material, particularly good on white
woolens.
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE—a mild bleach for any material.
OXALIC ACID—never use on weighted silk. Label “Poison”.
HYDROSULFITES—never use on weighted silks.
Pepsin—stain softener available at drug stores.
Sodium thiosulfate, or photographer’s “hypo”—removes iodine stain; use
with Javelle water to remove chlorine from cloth.
Solvents
TURPENTINE—for paint stains.
DENATURED ALCOHOL—be sure to mix alcohol with 2 parts water when
using on acetate rayon or colored material.
CARBON TETRACHLORIDE, GASOLINE, OR BENZENE—for grease and oil
stains.
ACETONE OR FINGERNAIL-POLISH REMOVER—for fingernail-polish stains.
Never use on acetate rayon or vinyon.
GLYCERINE—for tannin stains; also to loosen or soften other stains.
Washing agents
SOAP.
SYNTHETIC DETERGENT—powder, paste, or liquid.
DRY-CLEANING SOAP—to use with dry-cleaning fluid.
WASHING SODA.
Equipment
Cloth, white blotting paper, or cleansing tissues; medicine dropper;
glass rod; bowls.

Removing Individual Stains

Acids

Act quickly when an acid has been spilled, for it may damage the cloth
or destroy the color. First, wash the stain with cold water to stop the
action of the acid. Rinse several times in cold water; then apply
ammonia water or baking soda. Water alone will not restore color, but
ammonia water may.

Baking soda.—Sprinkle soda on both sides of the stain, moisten with
water, and allow to stand until the bubbling stops. Rinse well with
water.

Ammonia water.—Hold the dampened stain over an open bottle of strong
ammonia water; or if the material doesn’t water-spot, put a few drops of
ammonia water, diluted to half strength on the stain. Since ammonia
water affects some dyes, have white vinegar ready to apply quickly if
the color changes. Rinse well with water.

Adhesive Tape

Sponge or soak the stain in carbon tetrachloride, benzene, or kerosene.
Kerosene will make the cloth oily, so wash in warm suds after the
treatment.

Alcoholic Beverages and Soft Drinks

Alcoholic beverages and soft drinks may cause tannin stains. Fresh
tannin stains are almost colorless, but if they are allowed to stand or
are washed in soap and water or heated as in ironing and pressing, they
turn brown and are almost impossible to remove. Fresh stains can be
removed as follows:

Cold water and glycerine.—Sponge the stain with water or with a mixture
of equal parts alcohol and water. Then pour glycerine on the stain and
rub between the hands. Let stand for a half hour and rinse with water.

Acetic acid.—If the above treatment does not remove the stain, apply a
10-percent solution of acetic acid with a medicine dropper and let stand
a few seconds. Rinse and repeat if necessary. Stop the action of the
acid with baking soda or ammonia (see above) and spread the garment in
the sun.

Bleaches.—The last traces of stains on white materials can sometimes be
removed by bleaching. Use one of the following:

_Hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate._—Sponge lightly with hydrogen
peroxide or with a mixture of 1 level teaspoon sodium perborate to 1
pint hydrogen peroxide. If this does not remove stain, cover dampened
spot with powdered sodium perborate and let stand an hour. Rinse in
water.

_Javelle water._—For stains on uncolored cotton or linen material, dip
in Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the
cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (See p. 6
for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water to remove
stains from colored materials or from silk or wool.

Alkalies

Remove alkali spots at once; they may destroy not only the color but the
material as well. First sponge or rinse the spot thoroughly with cold
water. This generally is sufficient for mild alkalies such as washing
soda and weak ammonia water. But to be on the safe side and to help
restore color, apply an acid—this stops the action of the alkali. Then
rinse or sponge the spot thoroughly with water. Use any of the following
mild acids:

Lemon juice.—Squeeze the juice on the stain, and allow it to remain
until the juice loses its bright yellow color. Sponge or rinse well with
water.

Vinegar.—Sponge with vinegar; then rinse in cold water.

Acetic acid.—Apply a few drops of a 10-percent solution of acetic acid
with a medicine dropper or a glass rod and remove the excess by rinsing
or sponging with water.

Argyrol

Argyrol stains must be treated while still fresh. Proceed as follows:

Pepsin.—Sponge with warm water to remove any argyrol that has not soaked
into the cloth. Then sprinkle powdered pepsin over the dampened stain.
Work it well into the cloth, let stand a half hour or longer, then
sponge with water.

Iodine and sodium thiosulfate (“hypo”).—After the above treatment, put a
few drops of tincture of iodine on the dampened stain with a glass rod.
Let stand for 10 or 15 minutes; then sponge with a solution prepared by
dissolving several crystals of sodium thiosulfate in ½ cup of water.
Rinse well in water.

[Illustration: To bring back the color changed by an acid, hold the
dampened stain in the fumes from an open bottle of ammonia water.]

Blood

Blood stains will usually come out if sponged or washed in cold or
lukewarm water first. Never use hot water; it sets the stain.

Cold or lukewarm water.—For stains on silk or wool, sponge with cold or
lukewarm water. For washable material, soak the stains in cold water
until they turn light brown in color; then wash in warm soapy water. If
the stain is an old one and has dried, it may help to add 2 tablespoons
of ammonia water to each gallon of water used for soaking. Strong salt
water (about 2 cups of salt to 1 gallon water) is also good to loosen
the stain.

Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—If the above treatment does not
completely remove the stain, sponge with hydrogen peroxide. Or sponge
with a mixture of 1 level teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint hydrogen
peroxide. If the stain still shows, cover the dampened spot with
powdered sodium perborate and let stand an hour. Rinse thoroughly. These
bleaches will not harm the cloth, but before using test for
colorfastness on a sample of cloth or on an inner seam of the garment.
If the color fades, do not use the bleaches; just dampen the stain and
spread in the sun to bleach.

Starch.—Use a starch paste to remove stains on thick materials, such as
flannel and blankets, which cannot be soaked in water. Mix raw starch to
a paste with cold water, apply the paste thickly to the stain, and brush
it away when it dries. Repeat the treatment until the stain disappears.

Bluing

Soak fresh stains or rinse them in cold water. Or wash the stained
article with plenty of warm soapy water, rubbing thoroughly.

Candle Wax, Colored

Scrape away as much wax as possible with a dull knife. Then treat as
follows:

Blotting paper.—Place the stain between clean white blotters, cleansing
tissues, or paper towels, and press with a warm iron, changing the
blotters as they become soiled. Then sponge with carbon tetrachloride or
other grease solvent.

Denatured alcohol.—If a color stain remains, sponge with liquid made up
of 1 cup denatured alcohol and 2 cups water.

Candy

Launder in warm soapy water if the material is washable. Otherwise,
sponge with clear warm water.

If dye or chocolate stains remain, follow instructions given under Dyes
and Running Colors, page 14, or Chocolate and Cocoa, page 13.

Carbon Paper

Carbon-paper stains usually can be removed by washing in a heavy suds of
soap and water. Sponge unwashable materials with a liquid of 1 cup
alcohol and 2 cups water; then sponge with cold water.

Chewing Gum

Use one of the following methods:

Ice.—If the material will not water-spot, rub the gum stain with ice.
Then scrape and rub the hardened gum out of the cloth. This method is
particularly good for rugs and other heavy materials.

Egg white.—If the material is washable, soften the gum stain with egg
white and then wash.

Carbon tetrachloride, kerosene, or turpentine.—Soak the stain in carbon
tetrachloride, kerosene, or turpentine. If kerosene is used, wash in
warm soapy water afterwards.

Chocolate and Cocoa

It may be necessary to try more than one method to remove chocolate and
cocoa stains, since they usually contain other substances such as fat,
milk, starch, and sugar. First scrape off as much of the stain as
possible with a dull knife; then try one of the following:

Soap and warm water.—If the material is washable the regular laundering
in warm soapy water will often remove this stain.

Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—Sponge stubborn stains with
hydrogen peroxide. Or use a mixture of 1 level teaspoon sodium perborate
to 1 pint hydrogen peroxide. If the stain still shows, cover the
dampened spot with powdered sodium perborate and let stand an hour.
Rinse thoroughly. Be sure to test for color change on a sample of the
cloth or on the inside of hem or seam of the garment before using these
bleaches on the stain.

Carbon tetrachloride and pepsin.—If the cloth is not washable sponge
with carbon tetrachloride to dissolve the grease. Dry thoroughly, then
sponge with warm water, and dust with pepsin powder. Work the powder
into the cloth, let stand for 30 minutes or longer, then sponge with
water.

Cod-liver Oil

Fresh cod-liver oil stains are almost colorless and are easy to remove.
But old stains, especially if the material has been washed or ironed,
are a light brown and are almost impossible to remove, even with
bleaches. Treat fresh stains with either of the following:

Grease solvents.—Sponge or dip fresh cod-liver oil stains in carbon
tetrachloride, benzene, Stoddard solvent, or gasoline. When the
cod-liver oil has been removed, sponge with warm soapy water.

Glycerine.—For washable materials, pour either glycerine or one of the
soapless shampoos on the fresh stain. Rub lightly between the hands to
loosen the stain, rinse well in water, and then wash in warm soapsuds.

Coffee and Tea

Water and glycerine.—If the stains are on wool or silk, sponge with
lukewarm water. Then apply glycerine and rub lightly between the hands.
Let stand for half an hour and rinse thoroughly with water. If a grease
spot from cream remains, sponge with carbon tetrachloride.

Boiling water.—Remove fresh stains from washable materials by pouring
boiling water on the stain from a height of 2 or 3 feet, then wash in
warm soapy water. If a trace of stain remains, dry in the sun or bleach
with hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.

Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—Sponge with clear water and then
with a solution of 1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint hydrogen
peroxide. If the stain still shows, sprinkle powdered sodium perborate
on the stain and let stand half an hour. Rinse well with water.

Dyes and Running Colors

As there are many different kinds of dyes, no one remover will
successfully take out all dye stains. In fact, it may be impossible to
remove some of these stains completely. Proceed as follows:

Water and sunlight.—If the material is washable, rinse the stains in
cold or lukewarm water (soak for 10 to 12 hours if necessary), wash in
heavy soapsuds, and then dry in the sun. Spots on wool or silk materials
sometimes come out by soaking or washing in cold water.

Bleaches.—If a stain remains, try one of the following:

_Hydrosulfite._—Apply one of the hydrosulfites available at drug stores
as a color remover. Follow directions on the package.

_Javelle water._—For stains on uncolored linen, cotton, or rayon, dip in
Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the
cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (See p. 6
for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water to remove
stains from silk or wool.

_Hydrogen peroxide._—For stains on any white material, add a few drops
of ammonia water to hydrogen peroxide. Soak the stains until they
disappear and rinse thoroughly in water. One teaspoon sodium perborate
added to 1 pint hydrogen peroxide makes a good bleach, but it must be
made fresh, as it soon loses its strength.

Egg

Scrape away as much of the stain as possible with a blunt knife. Then
sponge with cold water. Never use hot water—heat makes egg stains harder
to remove.

Pepsin.—If cold water does not remove the stain completely, sprinkle
pepsin powder over the spot. Work it in well and let stand for half an
hour. Rinse well.

Grease solvents.—For nonwashable materials, sponge first with cold
water. Let dry and then sponge with carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or
other grease solvent.

Fingernail Polish

Acetone or nail-polish removers.—On any material except acetate rayon or
vinyon, sponge the stain with acetone or a commercial nail-polish
remover.

Grease solvent and banana oil (amyl acetate).—Use this treatment on any
material including acetate rayon and vinyon. First wet the stain well
with carbon tetrachloride or gasoline; then apply a drop of banana oil
to the stain. Brush lightly with a soft cloth, using an upward motion to
pick up the dissolved polish. For heavy stains use dry-cleaning soap
with the banana oil.

Bleaches.—To remove any color remaining after the polish itself has been
dissolved, apply a bleach. Test the cloth for change in color first.

_Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate._—Sponge with clear water and
then with a solution of 1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint hydrogen
peroxide. If the stain still shows, sprinkle powdered sodium perborate
on the stain and let stand half an hour. Rinse well with clear water.

_Hydrosulfite._—Apply one of the hydrosulfites available at drug stores
as a color remover. Follow directions on the package.

Fish Slime

Soak or sponge the stain with a solution made of ½ cup salt and 1 cup
vinegar in 2 quarts of water. Rinse well in water; then wash in warm
soapsuds.

Flypaper, Sticky

Sponge the stain with carbon tetrachloride or benzene. If the material
is washable, soak in kerosene and then wash in warm soapy water.

Fruits and Berries

Treat fruit and berry stains immediately, if possible; they are hard to
remove after they dry. Boiling water (if it does not harm the cloth) or
sometimes even warm water will remove most fruit stains. It is better
not to use soap, as alkalies set some fruit and berry stains. Use the
same methods for removing stains from cooked fruits and berries as from
fresh.

Washing in warm soapy water sometimes removes stains from citrus fruits,
such as grapefruit and lemon. But if the stain is old or the cloth has
been pressed before washing, use one of the bleaches described below. If
the acid in citrus fruit changes the color of the cloth, restore it with
ammonia water or baking soda. (See Acids, p. 10.)

Cold water and glycerine.—For fresh peach, pear, cherry, and plum stains
on cotton and linen and for any fruit stain on wool or silk materials
(either white or colored), first sponge the stain well with cool water;
then work glycerine or a soapless shampoo into the stain, rubbing
lightly between the hands. Do not use soap, as soap sets the stain. Let
stand several hours, then apply a few drops of vinegar or oxalic acid,
allow to remain for a minute or two, then rinse thoroughly in water.

Boiling water.—Boiling water removes from cotton and linen most fruit
stains except peach, pear, plum, and cherry. Never use boiling water on
silk or wool. Stretch the stained part over a bowl, fasten it with
string, and pour boiling water on it from a teakettle held at a height
of 3 or 4 feet so that the water strikes the stain with force. Rubbing
alternated with the boiling water is also helpful. If a stain remains,
squeeze a little lemon juice on it and place in the sun to dry, or use
one of the chemical bleaches.

Bleaches.—If a stain remains, try one of the following:

_Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate._—Sponge with hydrogen
peroxide-sodium perborate mixture (1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint
peroxide). Rinse thoroughly. If the stain persists, sprinkle powdered
sodium perborate on the dampened area and let stand for half an hour.
Finally rinse well. Always test for change of color on the inside of a
hem or seam before using these bleaches. If the color fades, do not use
them—just dampen the stain with water and spread in the sun to bleach.

_Hydrosulfite._—Hydrosulfites available at drug stores as dye removers
are satisfactory for removing fruit stains from any white material.
Follow directions on package.

_Javelle water._—For stains on uncolored linen or cotton material, dip
in Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the
cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (See p. 6
for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or
wool.

Glue and Mucilage

Water.—If the material is washable, soak the spot in warm water, or if
it is a stubborn stain you may have to boil it. If the stain is known to
be casein glue, soak it in cold water.

Acetic acid.—For nonwashable materials, sponge the spot with water, then
with acetic acid (10-percent solution) or white vinegar. Rinse well.

Grass and Other Fresh Garden Foliage

Hot water and soap.—If the material is washable, use hot water and soap,
rubbing the stain well. If this does not completely remove the stain,
use a bleach.

Bleaches.—Try one of the following:

_Hydrosulfite._—Hydrosulfites available at drug stores as dye removers
are satisfactory in removing grass stains from any white materials.
Follow directions on the package.

Benzene or denatured alcohol.—On materials that soap and water might
injure, sponge the stains with benzene or alcohol. Test them first to be
sure they do not change the color of the material. Do not use alcohol on
acetate rayon or vinyon unless you dilute it—1 cup denatured alcohol
with 2 cups water.

Grease and Oils

Fresh grease spots usually are the pure fat or oil. Old grease spots or
stains from automobile, wheel, or machine greases usually contain also
more or less dust, dirt, or fine bits of metal. (For road oil and axle
grease, see p. 27.) First scrape or wipe off as much of the grease as
possible; then treat the stain by one of the following methods:

Soap and water.—If the material is washable, wash in warm sudsy water.
Be sure to use plenty of soap on the stained part and rub well between
the hands. The soaplike washing agents (soapless shampoos, oils, and
lathers) are good to soften grease stains.

[Illustration: Place a grease or oil stain between paper towels or
cleansing tissues and press with a warm iron.]

Absorbents.—Use cornstarch, French chalk, or white talcum powder for
fine materials; corn meal or salt for carpets, rugs, and other coarse
materials. Dust the powder or salt over the spot, let stand until it
absorbs the grease or oil, then brush off. Another method is to place
the stained part between blotting papers and press lightly with a warm
iron. Change the blotting paper as it becomes soiled. Or use cleansing
tissues or paper towels in the same way. The advantage of using
absorbents is that they do not wet the material or leave rings as water
or grease solvents are apt to do.

Grease solvents.—Remove common grease and oils with carbon
tetrachloride, gasoline, or benzene. Place a pad of clean cloth or a
white blotter beneath the stain and sponge with a clean cloth, moistened
with the grease solvent. Work from the wrong side of the material in
order to push the dirt and grease out rather than to rub it into the
material. Use light, brushing motions, work from the outside of the spot
toward the center and spread or “feather out” the solvent into the cloth
around the stain until there is no definite edge. Then pat dry with a
clean, dry cloth.

If the grease spot contains dirt or fine bits of metal, first loosen the
stain by rubbing a little lard, petroleum jelly, or dry-cleaning soap
into it. Then sponge with the grease solvent or dip the stain into a
small bowl of the solvent.

Another method is to make a paste by mixing cornstarch or talcum with
carbon tetrachloride or other dry-cleaning fluid. Spread the paste over
the spot; when dry brush it off. Repeat if necessary. The solvent does
not spread and is less likely to form a ring if used in this way.

Ice Cream

Ice cream stains contain milk or cream, sugar, sometimes egg, and often
coloring. If after trying the following methods, a fruit or chocolate
stain remains, follow instructions under Fruits and Berries, page 15, or
under Chocolate and Cocoa, page 13.

Cold or lukewarm water.—If the material is washable and the stain
contains no highly colored fruit or chocolate, sponge with cold or
lukewarm water; then wash in warm soapsuds.

Carbon tetrachloride.—For nonwashable materials, sponge with carbon
tetrachloride to remove the greasy part of the stain. Let it dry; then
sponge with cold water to remove any stains from the egg and sugar in
the ice cream. If this does not remove the stain completely, follow with
a pepsin treatment.

Pepsin.—First sponge the stain with cold water, then sprinkle pepsin on
the dampened stain, and let it stand half an hour. Brush it off and
rinse the spot well. For best results, be sure the material is free from
soap or other alkali before applying the pepsin.

Ink

Because inks differ in composition, it is impossible to find removers
that are equally effective for all types of ink spots. Each of the
methods mentioned below is satisfactory with some type of ink. For most
ink spots, it is necessary to try several methods, beginning always with
the simplest and that least likely to harm the cloth.

India or drawing ink

Denatured alcohol, carbon tetrachloride, and benzene.—Place a pad of
cloth or blotter under the stain and sponge with one of these solvents.
Then rub glycerine (use glycerine only with alcohol) or a dry-cleaning
soap into the stain and finally rinse out with the solvent. If this does
not remove the stain, let the stain dry; then wet with water and rub in
a synthetic detergent (nonsoap cleaner) to help soften the stain. Or use
strong soapsuds to which a few drops of ammonia water have been added.
Alcohol must not be used on acetate rayon or colored materials.

Printing ink

Use one of the following agents for removing printing-ink stains:

Lard or petroleum jelly.—Rub the stain with lard or petroleum jelly;
work it into the cloth. If material is washable, wash with soap and
water; otherwise sponge with carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or other
grease solvent.

Turpentine.—Soak the stain for a few minutes in turpentine and then
sponge with carbon tetrachloride, alcohol, or other dry-cleaning fluid.
Do not use alcohol on acetate rayon or colored materials.

Kerosene.—To remove printing from flour bags and other bags, soak in
kerosene for several hours. Then wash thoroughly in soap and hot water
and spread on the grass in the sun to dry.

Writing ink

In removing writing-ink stains it usually is necessary to try various
methods. Always start with the simplest method and the one least likely
to harm the cloth.

Absorbents.—If the stain is still wet, spread corn meal, salt, French
chalk, cornstarch, or talcum powder on the stain to remove any excess
ink and to keep it from spreading. Work the powder into the stain. Shake
it off as it becomes soiled and repeat the process. When the dry
absorbent fails to take up more ink, make the absorbent into a paste
with water or with a mixture of 1 part water and 1 part alcohol and
apply again. Let dry and brush off.

Glycerine and water or soap and water.—If the material is washable, pour
either glycerine or one of the soapless shampoos on the fresh stain. Rub
lightly between the hands, rinse, and apply glycerine again as long as
any ink comes from the stain. Rinse with clear water. Washing with soap
and warm water will remove some types of ink.

Bleaches.—If the above treatments do not remove the stain, try a bleach.
But use bleaches sparingly on colored materials.

_Oxalic acid._—Soak the stain for a few seconds in a solution of oxalic
acid (3 tablespoons of the crystals of the acid to a pint of water). Or
sponge the stain well with cold water, then stretch the stain over a
bowl of hot water, and apply crystals of oxalic acid directly to the
stain. Rinse by dipping in the hot water and finally in water to which a
few drops of ammonia water have been added. Do not use on weighted silk.

_Hydrosulfite._—Sponge with a hydrosulfite solution and rinse quickly.

Iodine

Soap and water.—If the material is washable, soap and water will often
remove a fresh stain. Or moisten with water and place either in the sun,
over a warm radiator, or hold in the steam from a boiling teakettle.

Denatured alcohol.—On materials that water would injure, sponge with
alcohol. On acetate rayon and colored materials be sure to dilute the
alcohol—1 cup denatured alcohol to 2 cups water.

Sodium thiosulfate (“hypo”).—Sponge the stain or dip in a solution of 1
tablespoon of the “hypo” to 1 pint of water. Rinse well in water.

Iron Rust

Use any of the methods given below to remove iron-rust stains from white
materials. Test remover on sample of cloth before using on colored
materials.

Lemon juice.—Spread the stain over a pan of boiling water and then
squeeze lemon juice on it. After a few minutes rinse; then repeat the
process. This method is rather slow, but does not harm delicate white
cottons or linens. Another method is to sprinkle the stain with salt,
squeeze lemon juice on it, and spread in the sun to dry. Add more lemon
juice if the stain still shows. Rinse well.

Oxalic acid.—Spread the stained article over a bowl of hot water and
apply a few drops of oxalic acid solution (3 tablespoons of the crystals
to 1 pint of water). Or put the crystals of acid directly on the stain
and moisten with hot water. Rinse in hot water, and repeat until the
stain disappears. Do not use on weighted silk.

Cream of tartar.—Boil the stained article in a liquid made up of 4
teaspoons of cream of tartar to 1 pint of water. Rinse thoroughly.

Hydrosulfite.—Hydrosulfites available at drug stores as color removers
or dye-stripping agents also will remove rust stains. Follow directions
given on the package. Do not use on weighted silks.

Linseed Oil

Sponge with carbon tetrachloride or benzene. Treat as for cod-liver oil
stains.

Lipstick and Rouge

Petroleum jelly and carbon tetrachloride.—If water spots the cloth, work
petroleum jelly or lard into the stain. Then either sponge with carbon
tetrachloride or dip the stained part in a bowl of the solvent. If a
trace of color remains, sponge with denatured alcohol. On acetate rayon
and colored materials, dilute the alcohol—1 cup of denatured alcohol to
2 cups water.

Glycerine, soap, and water.—If the material is washable, first loosen
the stain as above with glycerine or petroleum jelly. Then launder. If
soap or other alkalies are applied before the stain is loosened, they
are apt to set it.

Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate.—Sponge with sodium
perborate-hydrogen peroxide mixture (1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1
pint peroxide). Rinse thoroughly. If the stain persists, sprinkle
powdered sodium perborate on the dampened area and let stand for half an
hour. Finally rinse well. Be sure to test the cloth for colorfastness
before using these bleaches.

Meat Juice or Gravy

Sponge meat-juice or gravy stains with cold or lukewarm water. Never use
hot water; it sets the stain. If a grease spot remains, launder washable
materials in warm soapy water. If the cloth is not washable, use an
absorbent powder or a grease solvent.

Absorbents.—Dust the powder over the stain, let it stand until it
absorbs the grease, then brush off.

Solvents.—Sponge with carbon tetrachloride, gasoline, or benzene.

Medicines

Because of the great number and variety of substances used in medicines,
it is not possible to give methods for removing all such stains. If you
know what the medicine is made of, it will aid in choosing the remover.
For instance, a tarry or gummy medicine can be treated in the same way
as a tar spot (see p. 27); a medicine containing much iron can be
removed in the same way as iron rust (see p. 20). Medicines in a sugar
sirup usually can be washed out with water; those dissolved in alcohol
sometimes can be removed by sponging the stain with alcohol. Many of the
medicines used in swabbing sore throats contain silver nitrate and
should be sponged with a solution of sodium thiosulfate (“hypo”)—1
teaspoon of the crystals in 1 cup of water.

If you cannot find out what kind of medicine caused the stain, you may
have to try several methods to find one that will do the job. Each of
the following methods will remove certain medicine stains.

Boiling water.—For washable materials, pour boiling water on the stain
from a height of 3 or 4 feet, as for fruit stains, or launder in warm
soapy water.

Denatured alcohol or carbon tetrachloride.—Some color stains can be
sponged or soaked out with alcohol. Sponge greasy stains with carbon
tetrachloride. A dry-cleaning soap helps to loosen them. Finally sponge
with fresh carbon tetrachloride.

Bleaches.—Use bleaches only on white materials. Try one of the
following:

_Hydrosulfite._—Use one of the hydrosulfite dye-stripping agents
available at drug stores. Follow instructions on the package.

_Javelle water._—For stains on linen, cotton, or rayon, dip in Javelle
water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with
a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (See p. 6 for more
detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool.

Mercurochrome

Mercurochrome stains are very hard to remove unless you treat them
promptly. Proceed as follows:

Denatured alcohol, glycerine, and laundering.—First sponge the stain
well with a liquid made of equal parts of alcohol and water. (On acetate
rayon and colored materials use 1 part alcohol and 2 parts water). Next
work glycerine into the cloth to help loosen the stain, and continue
using as long as any color bleeds from the stain. Then wash well in
soapsuds, and rinse with water to which a few drops of ammonia water
have been added.

Acetic acid.—If a stain remains after the above treatment, apply
10-percent acetic acid with a medicine dropper; then rinse well in
water.

Bleaches.—If the above treatments do not completely remove the stain,
use a bleach.

_Sodium perborate._—Sponge with a sodium perborate solution (4
tablespoons of the perborate in a pint of lukewarm water) or dampen the
stain with water and dust the powdered sodium perborate on it. Rinse
thoroughly. Always test for the effect on the color of the cloth before
using bleaches.

_Sodium hydrosulfite._—This color remover is available at drug stores.
It may be used safely on most white materials. Follow directions on the
package.

Metallic Stains

The tarnish of copper, brass, tin, and other metals often stains
textiles. To remove, apply vinegar, lemon juice, or a 10-percent
solution of acetic acid. Rinse well as soon as the stain has dissolved.
Do not use chlorine bleaches or sodium perborate to remove these stains.

Mercury or quicksilver removes lead or solder stains from rugs or
clothing. First scrape off as much of the lead as possible with a dull
knife. Then pour mercury on the stain and work with a stick until the
mercury absorbs the stains.

Mildew

Mildew spots must be treated when fresh, before the mold growth has a
chance to weaken the cloth.

Soap and water.—On washable material, soap and water will remove very
fresh stains. Drying on the grass in the sun helps to bleach the spots.

Bleaches.—Try a bleaching agent if soap and water do not remove the
stain. Be sure to test for colorfastness on a hidden part of the
garment.

_Lemon juice._—Moisten the stain with lemon juice and salt and place in
the sun. This often removes slight stains.

_Javelle water._—Old stains on cotton, linen, or rayon may be bleached
out with Javelle water. Dip the stain in the Javelle water for 1 minute
(no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with a sodium
thiosulphate solution, rinse well in water. (See p. 6 for more detailed
instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool.

_Sodium perborate._—Soak the stain in a sodium perborate solution (4
tablespoons perborate to 1 pint lukewarm water). Or dampen the stain
with water and sprinkle the perborate powder directly on the stain.
Rinse after either treatment.

Milk and Cream

See Ice Cream, p. 18.

Mimeograph-Correction Fluid

Follow instructions given under Fingernail Polish, page 15.

Mucus

Soak in lukewarm salt water (about 2 cups salt to 1 gallon water) or in
weak ammonia water (2 tablespoons ammonia water to each gallon water).
Rinse well with cold water and launder as usual.

Mud

Let the mud stain dry, then brush well. Sponge with clear water, or use
soap and water if it will not harm the cloth. Sponging with alcohol will
help to remove the last traces of the stain. On colored materials and
acetate rayon dilute the alcohol—1 cup denatured alcohol to 2 cups
water.

Mustard

Glycerine and soap and water.—If the material is washable, work
glycerine into the stain, rub lightly between the hands, and then wash
the article in soap and water.

Denatured alcohol.—If water spots the cloth, sponge the stain with
alcohol. Since alcohol makes some colors run, test a sample of the cloth
to be sure it does not harm the color. On acetate rayon sponge with
dilute alcohol—1 cup denatured alcohol to 2 cups water.

Bleaches.—Try one of the following, but use sparingly on colored
materials and do not use on weighted silks.

_Hydrosulfite._—Sponge with a hydrosulfite solution (2 teaspoons in 1
pint of warm water) and rinse quickly.

_Oxalic acid._—Apply oxalic acid solution with a medicine dropper (see
p. 7) and rinse well with clear water. Sponge with weak ammonia water,
borax or sodium perborate solution, to neutralize the acid.

Paints—Oil Paints, Varnishes, Enamels

Treat oil paint, varnish, and enamel stains quickly, since a dried or
hardened paint stain is almost impossible to remove. Scrape off as much
of the paint or varnish as possible before using any remover. If the
stain has hardened, apply a solvent on both sides and give time for it
to soften. Do not rub too hard; rubbing roughens the cloth. Use one of
the following methods:

Soap and water.—If the material is washable, remove fresh stains by
washing with plenty of soap. If the stain has dried, soften it first by
rubbing oil, lard, or petroleum jelly into it.

Turpentine or other solvents.—Sponge the stain with pure turpentine or,
if the spots are large or scattered, wash the whole article in it. Or
soak in a liquid of equal parts ammonia water and turpentine, rinse
several times in fresh turpentine, wash in soapy water. Carbon
tetrachloride, kerosene, alcohol, or benzene may be applied in the same
way as turpentine. Benzene is good for the usual type of spar varnish.
Alcohol will remove stains of shellac varnish, but never use alcohol on
acetate rayon or vinyon.

Paint and varnish remover.—Equal parts of benzene, carbon tetrachloride,
and amyl acetate (banana oil) make a very good paint remover. Apply the
remover and rub in a dry-cleaning soap to help loosen the stain. Finally
rinse out with carbon tetrachloride.

Pencil Marks

Indelible pencil

Do not use water on indelible pencil marks as this spreads the dye and
makes the stain harder to remove. Use one of the following:

Denatured alcohol.—Soak the stain in alcohol. If carbon marks remain,
sponge with soap and water. Do not use alcohol on acetate rayon. Test
all dyed cloth for colorfastness.

Bleaches.—Remove the dye with a bleaching agent.

_Javelle water._—For stains on uncolored cotton, linen, or rayon, dip in
Javelle water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the
cloth with a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (See p. 6
for more detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or
wool.

_Hydrogen peroxide and sodium perborate._—For other materials sponge
with a mixture of 1 teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint peroxide. Rinse
well.

Lead pencil

A soft eraser sometimes will remove the marks, especially on stiff or
starched materials. If the material is washable, rub soapsuds into the
stain and launder as usual. Sponge woolen materials with clear water or
with a solution of equal parts alcohol and water.

Perspiration Stains

Perspiration of the body is usually acid, so you can sometimes restore
colors changed by a perspiration stain by treating with an alkali.
Dampen the stain with water and hold it over the fumes from an open
ammonia water bottle. (See Acids, p. 10.) Old stains may be alkaline;
then try vinegar. (See Alkalies, p. 11.) However, colors changed by
perspiration cannot always be restored, particularly if the stain is an
old one.

To remove perspiration odors, sponge the stained part with warm water to
which a few drops of vinegar have been added, sprinkle powdered pepsin
over the stain, work it well into the cloth, and let stand 1 to 2 hours,
keeping the spot moist. Then brush off the powder and rinse well.

Yellowish perspiration stains on white material can be removed by:

Soap and water.—If the material is washable, bleach in the sun after
washing in soap and water.

Bleaches.—For a stubborn stain, try a bleach.

_Hydrogen peroxide._—Sponge with hydrogen peroxide or a mixture of 1
teaspoon sodium perborate to 1 pint peroxide. Rinse with water.

_Sodium hydrosulfite._—Quickly dip the stain into a sodium hydrosulfite
solution (2 teaspoons sodium hydrosulfite to 1 pint water). Rinse
immediately. First test the colorfastness of the cloth to this bleach.

Rubber Cement

To remove rubber cement either sponge or dip the cloth in carbon
tetrachloride, Stoddard solvent, gasoline, or benzene. If the stain has
dried, rub in petroleum jelly or dry-cleaning soap to loosen it. Then
apply the carbon tetrachloride or other solvent.

Salad Dressings

The acid of the vinegar or lemon juice in salad dressings may injure the
color of the material. Apply a mild alkali such as baking soda or weak
ammonia water immediately to restore the color. (See Acids, p. 10.) Then
use one of the following to remove the stain:

Soap and water.—Sponge delicate, washable materials with lukewarm water.
Do not use hot water if egg or cream was used in making the salad
dressing. Use soap if it will not harm the cloth.

Grease solvents.—Sponge the stain with lukewarm water, let dry, and then
sponge with carbon tetrachloride, Stoddard solvent, gasoline, or
benzene.

Absorbents.—Absorbent powders are particularly good for splatters of
salad oil. Dust cornstarch or talcum powder over the spot, allow it to
absorb the oil or grease, then brush off. Or make a thick paste by
mixing the powder with carbon tetrachloride or other grease solvent,
spread it on the spot, let dry, and brush off. Repeat if necessary.
Another method is to put the stained cloth between cleansing tissues and
press with a warm iron.

Scorch

You can usually remove light scorch stains from cotton and linen
materials, but wool and silk can seldom be restored to their original
condition. Brushing with emery paper may improve wool, however. Try the
following:

Soap and water.—If the cloth is washable, soap and water will remove
very slight stains. After washing, place the article in the sun for a
day or two; it may bleach out any remaining traces of the stain.

Hydrogen peroxide.—If the stained material is white, use hydrogen
peroxide. Dampen a white cotton cloth with the peroxide and lay it on
the stain. Cover with a clean dry cloth; then press with a medium warm
iron. If the hydrogen peroxide soaks through the top cloth, replace with
a dry one. Ironing directly on the cloth moistened with peroxide or on
the dampened stain itself, after the cloth has been removed, will cause
rust stains on the garment. Repeat the treatment, until the stain is
completely removed. Rinse well.

Light scorch stains may be removed also by sponging with hydrogen
peroxide to which sodium perborate has been added (1 teaspoon sodium
perborate to 1 pint peroxide). Rinse well with water.

Shoe Dressings

Soap and water.—If the material is washable, remove fresh stains from
one of the paste dressings by sponging or washing thoroughly with plenty
of soap. For spots caused by white dressings, sponge first with water,
then with soap and water.

Solvents.—Sponge well with carbon tetrachloride or turpentine.
Glycerine, lard, or petroleum jelly worked into the stain first helps to
loosen it. For liquid dressings and for stains on wool, sponge with
denatured alcohol. Do not use alcohol on acetate rayon or colored cloth.

Bleaches.—If a dye stain remains, remove with a bleaching agent.

_Hydrosulfite._—Apply one of the hydrosulfites available at drug stores
as a color remover. Follow directions on the package.

_Hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate._—Sponge the stain with hydrogen
peroxide or with a sodium perborate solution (p. 7) or sprinkle sodium
perborate powder on the moistened stain directly. Rinse well.

Soap

Ironing material from which the soap has not been well rinsed may cause
a stain much like iron rust. Washing with soap and water usually removes
it. Be sure to rinse well. Bleaching in the sun afterwards is sometimes
helpful.

Soot and Smoke

Absorbents with solvents.—First brush the stain; then sprinkle with an
absorbent powder—French chalk, cornstarch, corn meal, or salt. Work the
powder around until soiled and brush it off. Then if the material is
washable, sponge or wash with soap and water. If water harms the cloth,
first use an absorbent; then sponge the stain with one of the grease
solvents—carbon tetrachloride, Stoddard solvent, or gasoline.

Another method is to make a paste by mixing an absorbent powder with
carbon tetrachloride or other solvent, spread it on the stain, then
brush it off when dry.

To remove the odor of smoke from a garment, have it dry-cleaned.

Sugar Sirups

If the material is washable, wash out sugar-sirup stains with soap and
water. For more delicate materials, sponge with clean water.

Tar, Road Oil, Asphalt, Axle Grease, Pitch

Stains made by tarlike substances are hard to remove, especially from
cotton material. First rub in petroleum jelly or lard to soften the
stain, then sponge with one of the grease solvents—carbon tetrachloride,
Stoddard solvent, gasoline, benzene—or dip the article in the liquid and
rub lightly between the hands. Repeat the treatment until the stain is
removed. If the material is washable, use warm soapy water after rubbing
in the petroleum jelly or lard.

For stains on carpets or rugs, scrape off as much as possible with a
dull knife. Then sponge with the grease solvent, using a brushing motion
so that you do not rub the stain into the carpet.

Tobacco

Treat stains from the tarry substances in the stem of a pipe in the same
way as tar. Use one of the following methods to remove tobacco juice
stains:

Cold water and glycerine.—Sponge with cold water; then work warm
glycerine into the stain. Let stand for half an hour, and wash with soap
and water. If the stain cannot be completely removed by washing, bleach
it in the sun. Moistening it with lemon juice makes it disappear more
quickly.

Wood or denatured alcohol.—To remove traces of color remaining on wool
materials after the above treatment, sponge with alcohol.

Bleaches.—Try one of the following to remove remaining tobacco stains:

_Hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate._—Sponge with hydrogen peroxide
or with sodium perborate solution (4 tablespoons to a pint of water). Or
sprinkle powdered sodium perborate on the moistened stain. Rinse
thoroughly.

_Javelle water._—For stains on cotton or linen, dip the stain in Javelle
water for 1 minute (no longer), remove the chlorine from the cloth with
a sodium thiosulfate solution, rinse well in water. (See p. 6 for more
detailed instructions.) Do not use Javelle water on silk or wool
materials. Be sure to test the cloth for colorfastness before applying
this bleach.

Tomato Juice and Catsup

Cold water and glycerine.—Sponge the stain thoroughly with cold water to
remove all the loose foodstuff. Next work glycerine into the stain, and
let stand for half an hour. Then wash with soap and water.

Hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate.—Remove any remaining stain by
sponging with hydrogen peroxide or with sodium perborate solution (4
tablespoons to 1 pint of water). Sponge or rinse with cold water.

Urine

These stains differ so in composition that it is impossible to give
methods which will be successful in all cases. If the color of the cloth
is not destroyed but only changed, it may be restored. Normal human
urine is usually acid, as is also that of all meat-eating animals.
Therefore sponge such stains with a weak ammonia or soda solution. (See
Acids, p. 10.) If the stain is alkaline, sponge with lemon juice or
vinegar. (See Alkalies, p. 11.)

Warm water followed by salt and water.—Sponge with warm water. Warm salt
water may be used (about ½ cup salt to 1 quart water). Apply and let
stand 15 minutes; then sponge with clear water.

Hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate.—Apply a few drops of hydrogen
peroxide (see p. 7) or sponge with a mixture of 1 level teaspoon sodium
perborate to 1 pint peroxide. Powdered sodium perborate may be sprinkled
on the dampened stain. Rinse thoroughly in water.

Walnut (Black)

Soap solution.—Boil washable materials in soapy water (a half-inch cube
of laundry soap to each cup of water). This will completely remove fresh
stains on cotton or linen. If this treatment leaves a gray color, as it
sometimes does with an old stain, treat with Javelle water as follows:

Javelle water.—Mix Javelle water with an equal amount of hot water. Soak
the stained place for 1½ hours in this solution, and rinse thoroughly.
Then treat with oxalic acid solution (1 teaspoon oxalic acid to 1 pint
water), and rinse again. This will remove a week-old stain and will not
seriously injure the material. Soaking the stain in Javelle water of
full strength, however, rots the material. Do not use Javelle water on
silk or wool.

Water Spots

Some silks, rayons, and wools are spotted by water. To remove such
spots, dampen the entire material evenly, either by sponging with clean
water or by shaking in the steam from a briskly boiling teakettle. Then
press it while still damp. Scratching with the fingernail or a stiff
brush or rubbing the cloth between the hands will sometimes remove the
spot.

White Sauces, Cream Soups

If the material is washable, laundering in warm soap and water will
remove these spots. For nonwashable materials, sponge with warm water,
let dry, then sponge with a grease solvent—carbon tetrachloride,
gasoline, or benzene.

Index to Stains

A
Page
Acids 10
Adhesive tape 10
Alcoholic beverages 10
Alkalies 11
Argyrol 11
Asphalt 27
Axle grease 27

B
Beer. _See_ Alcoholic beverages.
Berries 15
Beverages. _See_ Alcoholic beverages; Chocolate; Coffee.
Blood 12
Bluing 12

C
Candle wax, colored 12
Candy 12
Carbon paper 13
Catsup 28
Cement, rubber 25
Cherry. _See_ Fruits.
Chewing gum 13
Chocolate 13
Cocoa 13
Cod-liver oil 13
Coffee 13
Cream. _See_ Ice cream.
Cream soups 29

D
Dyes 14

E
Egg 14
Enamel paint 24

F
Fingernail polish 15
Fish slime 15
Fish oil. _See_ Cod-liver oil.
Flypaper, sticky 15
Foliage 16
Fruits 15

G
Glue 16
Grapefruit. _See_ Fruits.
Grass 16
Gravy 21
Grease 17

I
Ice cream 18
Ink 18
Iodine 20
Iron rust 20

L
Lemon. _See_ Fruits.
Linseed oil 20
Lipstick 20
Liquor. _See_ Alcoholic beverages.

M
Mayonnaise. _See_ Salad dressings.
Meat juice 21
Medicines 21
_See_ also Argyrol; Mercurochrome.
Mercurochrome 22
Metallic stains 22
Mildew 22
Milk. _See_ Ice cream.
Mimeograph-correction fluid. _See_ Fingernail polish.
Mucilage 16
Mucus 23
Mud 23
Mustard 23

N
Nail polish 15

O
Oil 17
_See_ also Cod-liver oil; Linseed oil; Road oil.
Oil paints 24
Orange. _See_ Fruits.

P
Paints 24
Paraffin. _See_ Candle wax, colored.
Peach. _See_ Fruits.
Pear. _See_ Fruits.
Pencil marks 24
Perspiration 25
Petroleum jelly. _See_ Grease; Oils.
Pitch 27
Plum. _See_ Fruits.

R
Road oil 27
Rouge 20
Rubber cement 25
Running colors 14

S
Salad dressings 25
Sauces, white 29
Scorch 26
Shoe dressings 26
Silver nitrate. _See_ Medicines.
Sirups 27
Smoke 26
Soap 26
Soft drinks 10
Soot 26
Soups, cream 29
Sugar sirups 27

T
Tannin. _See_ Alcoholic beverages; Coffee; Fruits.
Tar 27
Tea 14
Tobacco 27
Tomato juice 28

U
Urine 28

V
Varnish 24
Vinegar. _See_ Acids.

W
Walnut, black 28
Water spots 28
Wax 12
White sauces 29
Wine. _See_ Alcoholic beverages.

* U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1955 O-337590

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing
Office
Washington 25, D. C.—Price 15 cents

Transcriber’s Notes

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook
is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
_underscores_.

*** End of this LibraryBlog Digital Book "Stain Removal from Fabrics: Home Methods - Farmers' Bulletin No. 1474" ***

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