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Title: The Bee Keeper's Guide, containing Concise Practical Directions for the Management of Bees upon the Depriving System: Fourth Edition
Author: Payne, J. H.
Language: English
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CONTAINING CONCISE PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE MANAGEMENT OF BEES UPON
THE DEPRIVING SYSTEM ***
Transcriber Note
Text emphasis denoted as _Italics_ and =Small-caps=.
THE
BEE KEEPER'S GUIDE,
CONTAINING
CONCISE PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS
FOR
THE MANAGEMENT OF BEES,
UPON THE
DEPRIVING SYSTEM.
------
BY J. H. PAYNE,
=Author of "the Cottager's Guide."=
------
FOURTH EDITION.
------
LONDON:
=T. C. NEWBY, 65, MORTIMER St., CAVENDISH Sq.=
------
1842.
[Illustration: Figures 1-7.
Fig. Description
1 Improved Cottage Hive
2 Improved Cottage Hive with small hive affixed
3 Hive showing the opening on top
4 Small Hive with glass opening
5 Adapter for small Hive or Box
6 Knife for cutting out the comb
7 Box to be used instead of small Hive
]
[Illustration: Figures 8-10]
PREFACE
TO THE FIRST EDITION.
Having written the "Cottager's Guide for the Management of his
Bees, upon the Depriving System," which has been printed under the
direction of the Suffolk and Norfolk Apiarian Society, for gratuitous
distribution amongst the Cottagers, I am induced, at the particular
request of several Apiarian friends, to enlarge the above little work,
and to give in addition a description of Nutt's newly invented Hive,
and other practical remarks in Bee-knowledge, resulting from nearly
forty years close observation.
Should this little work be the means of inducing any person to
promote the culture of Bees amongst the Cottagers in his immediate
neighbourhood, upon the Depriving System, I shall be amply repaid for
the trouble it may have occasioned me; and the hope that such will
be the result, must be my apology for adding to the number of books
(perhaps already too numerous) upon this subject.
Reaumur in a letter to M. de la Bourdonaye, in 1757, says, "The
preservation and also the increase of Bees is an object of such
interest to Britanny, that the peasantry cannot be too much encouraged
to turn their attention to it." Surely this is equally applicable
to our own country at the present time, when the condition of the
labouring poor calls so loudly for relief.
I have little hesitation in saying, that Cottagers who are able to keep
from four to six Hives of Bees, may make from four to eight pounds,
yearly profit, after paying all expenses upon them. I paid last year
to one Cottager seven pounds, fifteen shillings, and to another five
pounds and one shilling for Bees and Honey.
The following anecdote has so much the appearance of truth in it, and
is so well suited to my present purpose, that I cannot refrain from
giving it.
A good old French Bishop in paying his annual visit to his Clergy,
was very much afflicted by the representations they made of their
extreme poverty, which, indeed, the appearance of their houses and
families corroborated. Whilst he was deploring the state of things
which had reduced them to this sad condition, he arrived at the house
of a Curate, who, living amongst a poorer set of parishioners than
any he had yet visited, would, he feared, be in still more woful
plight than the others; contrary however to his expectations, he found
appearances very much improved, every thing about the house wore the
aspect of comfort and plenty. The good Bishop was amazed. "How is this,
my friend?" said he, "you are the first man that I have met with a
cheerful face and a plentiful board. Have you any income independent of
your Curé?"
"Yes, Sir," said the Clergyman, "I have; my family would starve on the
pittance I receive from the poor people that I instruct, come with
me into the garden and I will show you the _Stock_ that yields me an
excellent interest."
On going to the garden he showed the Bishop a large range of Bee-hives.
"There is the Bank," he continued, "from which I draw my annual
dividend.--It never stops payment."
Ever after that memorable visit, when any of his Clergy complained to
the Bishop of poverty, he would say to them, "_Keep Bees! Keep Bees!_"
In the words of an Apiarian friend, I solicit information from every
one who may have it in his power to transmit it to me, and on the other
hand, I profess my perfect readiness to impart whatever knowledge I
may possess in the management of an Apiary, to any person who will
favour me with the application; my aim is general utility, and the
establishment of a national advantage.
PREFACE
TO THE SECOND EDITION.
Since the first appearance of this little Treatise I am most happy in
being able to state that Apiarian Science has in this neighbourhood and
in the adjoining Counties, made very considerable advances, that the
ridiculous notions, and foolish prejudices entertained respecting Bees,
are fast wearing away--that the _Cottagers_ are generally managing
them upon the depriving system, making them a real source of profit
and of comfort, and that a number of influential persons are making
themselves acquainted with the practical management of Bees, upon the
simplest and most profitable methods, for the sole purpose of setting
an example, and for qualifying themselves to give instructions in the
management of them to their poor neighbours. Nor is this spirit of well
directed benevolence confined to these Counties only, for at Oxford a
Society is just formed to promote an improved and more extensive system
of Bee management among the Cottagers by the diffusion of information
on the subject, and the _loan_ of hives _not the gift_, their cost to
be repaid from the produce, and also to promote a more extensive and
scientific knowledge concerning the Natural History and cultivation
of Bees among the higher classes; the society I find is flourishing,
a piece of ground has been taken and laid out as an experimental
Bee-garden, there is already a very considerable number of stocks of
Bees placed in it in common straw, and experimental hives. Subscribers
pay half a guinea a year, and non-Subscribers a shilling each visit
This is an example worthy of imitation.
I am just favoured with a letter from a Gentleman who has recently
visited the above establishment giving me a certain and simple method
of Autumnal union of weak stocks, which he there witnessed, but it
comes too late to be embodied in this treatise the whole of that
part being already in the press, still as I consider the union of
weak stocks important, and Gelieu's method which I have given too
troublesome for most persons, I will venture to give it in this place.
"The process" he says, "is merely _fumigating the Bees_ for which they
have invented a tube much more simple than Nutt's which they insert
into the mouth of the hive; under the hive is previously pushed either
an empty one reversed, or a shallow box with a wide rim, this receives
the stupified Bees; cut out the combs and remove all the remaining
Bern from them that none be lost. Now take a little sugared ale and
sprinkle it over them just as they are recovering, place upon them the
hive to which they are to be united, this hive requires no sprinkling
nor any fumigation, the Bees in the latter are soon attracted by we ale
and go down into the hollow containing the fumigated ones licking them
over, the whole are mixed and go up without the least disturbance, it
is unnecessary to take any trouble about the Queen," he adds "I was
assured that not a Bee would be lost" and he further says "upon my
return home I tested it with entire success on some of my neighbour's
Bees, it was the work of but a few minutes, and not the smallest
danger. I left the hive placed upon the other all night, and the next
morning every Bee had left the bottom one, more perfect quiet I never
saw. I think there were nearly two quarts of Bees fumigated."
Puff-ball is generally recommended being the safest, mild tobacco
answers very well, great caution, however, is required in its use,
or the Bees may be killed. Common fumigating bellows, or even a
tobacco-pipe may be used for this operation: After this discovery it
will be absurd not to unite weak stocks, or to destroy a single Bee on
taking up an old hive.
I have always considered the keeping of Bees and the advantages arising
from them to be the undoubted privilege of the Cottagers and theirs
alone, other persons may keep a few for amusement, or to endeavour to
learn something of their natural history, but all should in my opinion
be made subservient to the Cottagers' benefit.
The present season has been a most unpropitious one, especially in this
neighbourhood, perhaps the most so that I remember, but I am disposed
to think that this is not a favourable district for the collection of
honey. I have frequently compared the produce of my own apiary with
that of others at a distance, and this year especially, with that of a
friend upon the Essex bank of the Stour, which I assisted in forming
and have frequently visited, the quantity of honey obtained from this
is small, but it is five times as much as that of any one in this
neighbourhood consisting of the same number of stocks.
I cannot close this preface without acknowledging the very flattering
manner in which my little treatise has been mentioned in various
publications, and my thanks to the many correspondents it has obtained
for me. The addition which I have been enabled to make to it, will I
trust be acceptable and useful.
I still solicit information from any who will give it me, and am ready
to impart it to all those who will ask it.
_Bury Saint Edmund's,
Oct, 11th, 1838._
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Page
Situation of an Apiary and directions for placing the Hives
1
CHAPTER II.
Directions for Purchasing Bees
10
CHAPTER III.
Materials of Which Hives should be made, and the Improved Cottage
Hive described
15
CHAPTER IV.
Method of placing the small Hive, Box, or Glass, upon the
Improved Cottage Hive, by which means fine Honey may be
obtained without destroying the Bees
21
CHAPTER V.
Proper time for taking away the Box, and how to expel the Bees
from it
30
CHAPTER VI.
Method to be pursued in case a Swarm should leave the Hive, after
having commenced working in the Box
36
CHAPTER VII.
Method of uniting Second and Third Swarms
41
CHAPTER VIII.
Manner of uniting Swarms and Old Stocks in Autumn
45
CHAPTER IX.
Manner of Feeding weak Stocks, and the Time most appropriate for
this operation
53
CHAPTER X.
Food proper for weak Hives
57
CHAPTER XI.
Enemies of Bees, and means of overcoming them
60
CHAPTER XII.
Directions for Hiving Swarms
67
CHAPTER XIII.
Description of the Knife for cutting out the Combs
74
CHAPTER XIV.
Remedies, proposed as Cures, for the Stings of Bees
76
CHAPTER. XV.
Means of preventing the Bees from being Stolen especially in the
Country
80
CHAPTER XVI.
Method of dislodging Bees from Trees or Buildings, and putting
them into hives
83
CHAPTER XVII.
Description of Nutt's newly invented Hive for obtaining the Honey
without destroying the Bees
87
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Apiarian's monthly manual, or dints for the management of
Bees for every month in the year upon the depriving System
94
THE APIARIAN'S GUIDE.
CHAPTER I.
_Situation of an Apiary, and directions for placing the Hives._
I have no hesitation in saying, that a South aspect is decidedly
preferable to any other situation for an Apiary. I have tried various
aspects, but the Bees in the South I have always found to be the
healthiest, and to collect the largest quantity of honey. It is very
important that the hives be sheltered from the wind by trees or houses,
and that they are not placed in the vicinity of ponds or large rivers,
for high winds will dash them into the water, where numbers will perish.
It was the opinion of the ancients, that Bees in windy weather carried
weights to prevent them from being driven about by it. Virgil says,
"That with light pebbles, like a balanced boat,
Poised through the air on even pinions float."
=Sotherby's Georgics.=
This is now ascertained to be erroneous, and is ascribed by Swammerdam
and Reaumur, to preceding observers having mistaken the Mason Bee,
for a Hive Bee; the former builds its nest against a wall, with a
composition of gravel and its own saliva, and when freighted with
the former article, may easily have led a careless observer into the
erroneous opinion alluded to. The Abbe della Rocca appears to have
fallen into, and perpetuated, the same error.
Though large ponds are very injurious, a small stream is beneficial
to them, which if they are not supplied with, water must be given
them, for it is absolutely necessary, and enters, as much as honey
and farina, into the composition with which they nourish the brood.
The plan that I have for many years adopted, is to fill an unglazed
earthen pan, eighteen inches by eight, four inches deep, and square at
the sides, with water, upon the surface of which floats a very thin
deal board perforated with holes: in Spring and Summer, the Bees may be
seen coming in great numbers to drink, or rather to carry water into
their hives to mix with the farina they collect so abundantly at this
season of the year for food for their young. In my opinion, Dr. Bevan
says very justly, that "the Apiary should be near the residence of the
proprietor, as well for the purpose of rendering the Bees tractable,
and well acquainted with the family, as for affording a good view of
their general proceedings."
I am a decided enemy to Bee houses of all kinds for they are the means
of causing the ruin of a great number of hives, by affording a home to
their worst enemies, viz. mice, moths, spiders, earwigs, and various
other insects, thousands die from imprisonment, and many hives are
destroyed by humidity. The method of placing several hives upon the
same bench is also very injurious, it very much facilitates pilfering,
and renders it impossible to operate upon one hive, without disturbing
the others.
The hives should be placed upon separate boards, supported by single
pedestals four or five inches in diameter, firmly placed in the ground,
and standing about fifteen inches from the surface, (see fig. 1. plate
1.); upon the top of this post should be nailed firmly a board nine
inches square, upon which should be placed the board the hive stands
upon, but not nailed, the double boards will be found very convenient
for weighing or removing the hives, without disturbing the Bees.
On no account use clay or mortar as is usually done to secure the hive
to the board, the Bees of themselves will do it more effectually;[1]
clay or mortar tends very much to decay the hives, and to harbour moths
and other insects; each hive should be covered with a large milkpan,
and be well painted every year, for hives managed upon the depriving
system, are expected to stand from fifteen to twenty years.
[Footnote 1: This fact, though it has been denied by those who profess
to have had much experience in the management of Bees, is known to
every novice in Apiarian science, for he does not suffer much time to
pass, after having purchased a swarm of Bees, without endeavouring to
ascertain how much honey they have collected, and finds the difficulty
of separating the hive from the board upon which it was placed.]
The hives should be placed about three feet apart from each other, and
in a right line, but should the number be too great to allow of this
arrangement, and render two rows necessary, they must not be less that
fifteen feet asunder, and those in the front row intersecting the line
formed by the hinder one.
The boards on which the hives are placed, should be cleaned about four
times in the year, January, March, April and November, much time and
trouble will be saved the Bees thereby.
Plants which rise in height equal to or exceeding the entrance of the
hives, should not be suffered to grow in their immediate vicinity, and
every facility should be removed by which the enemies of the Bees can
ascend into the hives.
Still, however, a few shrubs or standard roses of four or five feet may
with advantage be placed eight or ten paces in front of the hives, for
the Bees to alight upon in their return home when heavily laden with
honey and pollen--it saves their falling to the ground from the weight
of their load, which they frequently do, and in unfavourable weather to
rise no more--it was seeing them rest in this manner that gave rise to
the following lines:--
Rest on that Rose's leaf awhile, thou little Busy Bee,
Thou hast winged thy way with thousands, the wand'ring, the free,
Unwearied with thy ceaseless toil in search for future store,
Thou'rt comeback to unlade thy sweets, then sally forth for more.
Thou'st been among the flow'rs of gold, their kiss is on thee yet,
And o'er thy richly powdered wings how many hues are met,
That tell of revelling at the founts of nectar's luscious tide,
Of honey-dews that rest upon each petal's glossy side.
Where hast thou been since the bright morn first saw thee on thy way
'Mong scented brier and glittering heath that woo'd thy lingering stay?
Hast thou no voice to tell us of the far off verdant scenes,
Of the rich limes thou lov'st so well and of the fresh'ning steams.
Away! away! once more thou'rt up and ev'r the leaf be still'd.
To its soft rest from the trembling that thy light form has thrill'd,
Thou'lt be again among thy loves, the fragrant, the bright,
All jealous of their hidden sweets, in murmuring delight.
I have always found the advantage of planting, in the vicinity of my
hives, a large quantity of the common kinds of crocus, single blue
hipatica, heleborus niger, and tussilago petasites, all of which flower
very early and are rich in honey and farina: salvia nemorosa, (of Dr.
Smith) which flowers very early in June and lasts all the summer, is
in an extraordinary manner sought after by the Bees, and when room is
not an object, twenty or thirty square yards of it may be grown with
advantage, origanum humile, origanum rubescens, (of Haworth) and
mignonette may also be grown; cultivation beyond this, exclusively for
Bees, I believe answers very little purpose.
Doctor Bevan says: "To those who, residing in towns, may consider
it indispensable to the success of an Apiary, that it should be in
the immediate vicinity of good pasturage, and be thereby deterred
from benefiting and amusing themselves by keeping Bees; it may be
satisfactory to learn that the Apiary of the celebrated Bonner was
situated in a garret, in the centre of Glasgow, where it flourished
for several years, and furnished him with the means of making many
interesting and valuable observations which he gave to the world about
thirty years ago."
My own experience also proves the truth of the above statement,
residing myself for four years in the centre of a large town, in a
house without a garden, I kept two stocks of Bees in my study, in
glass, and four or five others in the improved cottage hive upon the
roof of my house, and I am not aware that they have ever done better,
or afforded me a larger quantity of honey in any other situation.
CHAPTER II.
_Directions for purchasing Bees._
The best time to establish an Apiary is from the middle of February
to the middle of March, the stocks will have passed in safety through
the winter, the combs are then empty of brood, light of honey, and the
removal safe and easy. Stocks should be selected by a competent judge,
as the weight alone cannot be relied on, a swarm of the preceding year
should be selected, and one that contains not less than twelve pounds
of honey; there are few commodities in which a person can be so easily
deceived as in a hive of Bees. I would therefore recommend the young
Apiarian to take the opinion of some experienced person before he makes
his purchase, a hive of the preceding year can only be known by a close
inspection of the combs, which but few persons have courage to engage
in; if the hive is not of the preceding year its weight is no criterion
of its value, for an old hive always contains a large quantity of the
pollen or dust of flowers which the Bees carry home on their legs,
especially in the Spring and Autumn, it is an essential ingredient in
the food with which they nourish their young, but good for nothing
else, indeed the Bees will die of hunger upon the combs that are filled
with it:--"Yet," says Gelieu, "they lay up useless hoards of it,
which they go on augmenting every year, and this is the only point on
which they can be accused of a want of that prudence and foresight so
admirable in every other respect."
The Bees appear to be aware of the perishable nature of this
substance, for they never fill a cell entirely with it, but leave room
for a small quantity of honey in each cell containing pollen, before it
is sealed up, by this means the air is most effectually excluded, and
the pollen preserved for a considerable time; should, however, the Bees
be compelled to consume the honey from those cells containing pollen,
before they can make use of it for their young, it moulds and becomes
of no value, and causes them great labour to remove it. For when in
this state, they have no means of displacing it but by eating away the
cells in which it is contained, and conveying it out of their hives in
small pieces, about the size of peas, hard and mouldy. I have seen the
entrance of old hives in the month of April almost filled up with the
pellets of mouldy farina. The process is tedious, takes up much time,
and the ravages made by it upon the combs appear irreparable; still
in a short space of time, if the weather be favourable, the combs are
repaired, as if no injury had befallen them, and filled with honey
or brood. It is a very heavy substance, so that if weight be the only
criterion, farina will be purchased instead of honey, therefore in the
purchase of old stocks it will be necessary they should weigh eight
pounds more than swarms of the preceding year; in the purchase of
swarms less experience is necessary, and by attending to the following
rules the young Apiarian will not be imposed upon.
1st. That the swarm be purchased before the 14th of June, the longer
before that time the better.
2ndly. That it does not weigh less than three pounds and a half. I have
known some swarms to weigh six pounds, but this is of rare occurrence.
It is very important to observe, that when a swarm of Bees is purchased
it must be removed to the place in which it is to remain, upon the
evening of the day it swarmed, for should the removal be delayed even
till the next day, the combs will in all probability be broken and the
stock destroyed.
I should recommend the purchaser to send his own hive to the person
of whom he intends to buy a swarm, and to desire him not to put any
sticks across the interior of the hive, as is the usual custom, for
they cause much trouble to the Bees in forming their combs, and render
their extraction almost impossible. The prosperity of the hive will
much (perhaps entirely) depend upon its being finally placed upon the
evening of the day it swarmed.
CHAPTER III.
_Materials of which Hives should be made, and the improved Cottage Hive
described._
Much has been said with respect to the materials of which Hives should
be made, and experience has long determined, that straw and wood are
the best. Mr. Huish, to whom I am indebted for some useful information
in Apiarian science, says, "Of all the materials which have been
selected for the formation of a Hive, I conceive no one to be more
eligible than straw." Gelieu, to whom experience as an Apiarian I
am disposed to pay the greatest respect, and whose work containing
Practical Directions for the Management and Preservation of Hives,[2]
I would recommend to every keeper of Bees, says, (when speaking of
wood and straw as materials proper for Hives) "experience has shown
me, that it is a matter of indifference which are employed; except as
to price, according as either material may be more or less abundant
in different parts of the country." I have for nine years possessed a
Nutt's hive, which is made of wood, (and which I shall have occasion
hereafter to mention,) without being able to discover any difference in
the health and activity of the Bees; but the facility and economy in
the construction of straw hives, must always be a recommendation, as it
is in every article connected with rural economy.
[Footnote 2: The 'Bee Preserver,' by Jonas De Gelieu, recently
translated from the French.]
It has always been my practice to paint my Hives, both wood and straw,
at least once in the year, and I would strongly recommend all persons
to do the same. April I think is the best time, and if done after six
o'clock in the evening, not the least inconvenience will arise either
to the painter or to the Bees.
Having decided upon the materials of which Hives should be made, their
form is next to be considered; for a straw hive, I would recommend the
following size, nine inches deep and twelve in diameter, straight at
the sides and flat at the top, in shape like a half bushel measure, a
hole should be made in the top of four inches, and a piece of straw
large enough to cover it must be fastened on with skewers, (see fig. 3,
plate 1.) not to fit in but to cover _over_, the diameter of the piece
of straw being at least two inches more than that of the opening at
the top of the hive, it will be much easier taken off, and the combs
of swarms of a few weeks standing will not be injured by its removal,
which in favourable seasons should always have a glass or small hive
put upon them, the early ones especially; an entrance of two inches by
one, must be cut in the bottom of the hive, to which I affix a piece
of copper of about six inches by three, having a grove, to admit two
sliding copper plates, one perforated and the other having a hole large
enough to allow but one Bee to come out at a time, (see fig. 10, plate
2.)[3]
[Footnote 3: Instead of two sliding plates, I would recommend one only
as given by Mr. Taylor, in his "Bee-Keeper's Manual," lately-published,
for as they cannot both be used at the same time, the one out of use is
frequently misplaced. Zinc answers the purpose equally with copper,
and is but half its price.]
[Illustration]
I have found great advantage arising from this little apparatus. The
finely perforated slider is used to confine the Bees to their hive
when snow lies upon the ground, the reflection of which, when the sun
shines upon it, never fails to induce them to leave their hives, and
falling upon it they perish, for a Bee becomes torpid at a temperature
of 32°. The slider with one hole only, is useful both in Spring and
Autumn, preventing either robbers or wasps from entering the hives,
for three or four Bees will, with the help of this slider, guard the
entrance more effectually that ten times the number without it.
Although I have recommended Bees to be confined in their hives so long
as snow remains upon the ground, it would, however, be very prejudicial
to them if carried on beyond that time, for I never saw Bees healthy
and strong after being shut up through the winter.
Gelieu says, "Bees have no real disease, dysentery, about which so
much noise has been made, and for which so many remedies have been
prescribed, never attacks the Bees of a well-stocked hive, that is
left open at all seasons, but those only that are too long and too
closely confined. They are always in good health as long as they are at
liberty, when they are warm enough and have plenty of food. All their
pretended diseases are the result of cold, hunger, or the infection
produced by a too close and long confinement during winter."
CHAPTER IV.
_Method of placing the small Hive,[4] Box, or Glass upon the Improved
Cottage Hive, by which means fine Honey may be obtained, without
destroying the Bees._
[Footnote 4: To avoid repetition, we shall in future use the term,
"Box," to express any receptacle employed to obtain honey on the
improved system, whether it be in wood, glass, straw, or any other
material.]
At the end of April, or very early in the month of May, take the
moveable piece of straw, from the top of the Improved Cottage Hive,
(fig. 3.) and place it upon the adapter, (fig. 5,) then put the Box or
small Hive (fig. 7, and 4) upon this adapter and cover the whole with
a milk-pan, to defend them from wet. A glass may be used instead of the
small Hive or Box, with equal success, providing it be covered with
something that will effectually exclude light; a cover of straw, is
perhaps, preferable to any other.
When the Bees are beginning to work in a glass, a cold night generally
obliges them to forsake their newly made combs, sends them down into
the hive, and compels them to discontinue their labours which are
seldom resumed till the middle of the next day; to prevent this delay I
would recommend the space between the glass and its cover to be filled
with fine tow or wool, the temperature of the glass being thereby kept
up, and the Bees enabled to carry on their labours without interruption.
Experience has proved that the milk-pan is the best of all protections
for a hive, provided it be six inches in diameter larger than the hive
itself.
When the Box is filled with honey and the combs partially sealed, or
when the Bees are seen to cluster at the mouth of the Hive at nine
or ten o'clock in the morning, let no time be lost in lifting up the
Box, and placing between it and the Stock-hive another Box with a hole
in the top; the adapter (fig. 5) will be found very useful in this
operation. It is necessary to use this precaution at all times, but
more especially in a rainy season as a greater disposition amongst the
Bees to swarm then prevails. "Dry weather makes plenty of honey, and
moist, of swarms."[5] However incorrect this position may at first
sight appear, the attentive observer will quickly become convinced of
its truth.
[Footnote 5: Purchas on Bees.]
Since the publication of the first edition of this little Treatise,
many persons have said to me, "their Bees would swarm, although the
small hive had been placed on as directed above, and sometimes after
they had commenced working in it," the reason for which in my opinion
is, that the second small hive was not supplied soon enough, for the
like has never in a single instance occurred with my own Bees. I have
not had a swarm these twenty years from any of the hives worked upon
the Depriving System, occasionally I have compelled a hive to swarm, to
fill up a vacancy in my number, where the Queen has died, or some other
accident destroyed the stock.
The population of a hive increases rapidly in April and May, and
consequently the internal temperature rises in proportion, a very high
temperature causes swarming, (Mr. Nutt says 130°) although the Bees
may have abundance of room--I have frequently seen a glass lamp that
has no opening at the top, placed upon a hive, and the result has
been that the Bees swarmed before they had filled it.--If both _room
and ventilation_ are carefully attended to _swarming may be prevented
altogether_, and that the one may be as completely under the control of
the proprietor as the other, I would recommend Mr. Taylor's Ventilator,
which I believe, to be a perfect one, for when properly arranged it
will reduce the temperature of a hive at the swarming season, from ten
to twenty degrees in a few minutes--I would recommend its insertion in
the top of the small hive, box, or glass, before it is placed upon the
larger one.
"The Ventilator I use, says Mr. Taylor, (and I have made them of
various forms) consists of double tubes, both resting on a flauch in
the holes prepared for them, the outer tube is of one inch diameter and
six inches long, with six half inch holes dispersed over it.
[Illustration]
It is soon fixed down in its place by the Bees, and so must remain,
the inner tube is of perforated zinc, with a[6] tin projecting top
as a handle, and a cap to put on or off this as required. The Bees
will stop up the inner tube where they can get at it, when it may be
turned round a little to present a new surface. When wholly stopped,
it may be withdrawn from its place, and a clean tube substituted. This
may be done without the least danger to the operator, but it should
be inserted carefully, to avoid crushing any Bees that may have crept
within the outer tube, an exit to these is afforded by the hole at the
bottom. The substance with which Bees glue up all crevices and attach
their combs is called Propolis--a resinous exudation from certain
trees, of a fragrant smell, and removable by the aid of hot water.
[Footnote 6: In adopting Mr. Taylor's Ventilator to the small hive, the
inner tube must be made without "the projecting top as a handle," and
the cap made even with the flauch.]
In order occasionally to know the temperature of any of the boxes, a
thermometer made to fit the ventilator may be inserted in it. This is
chiefly useful as a matter of precaution towards the swarming season.
Some have thought it necessary to cut holes in the floor-board, or have
placed drawers underneath, to aid the ventilation, but I have always
found the mouth of the hive sufficient for all purposes."
All operations except joining swarms or stocks, should be performed
upon a fine day, about noon, they may then be done with much less
annoyance to the Bees, as well as with less chance of danger to the
operator.
I have for some years past performed almost all the operations required
in this system without the defence, even of gloves, but I would not
recommend any person to attempt it, until he has had several years
experience in the management of Bees.
The being perfectly defended in every part against their stings, gives
that coolness and confidence to the operator, upon which the happy
accomplishment of his intentions so much depends. I cannot too strongly
urge, that coolness and confidence on the part of the operator are
essential qualifications, for anything approaching to hurry irritates
them beyond measure; indeed whilst engaged with them the hand ought
never to be hastily removed from one position to another. Dr. Bevan
says, "quietness is the surest protection against being stung."
The best defence is a mask of wire, very similar to, but much finer
than a fencing mask, with a rim of tin made to fit the head, to which
a silk handkerchief is attached, a pair of thick worsted gloves, and
stockings or gaiters of the same material; stout leather gloves are as
good protection as those of worsted, but leather, from the closeness of
its texture, will not allow the Bees to withdraw their stings from it
and the consequence is, that many perish.
It is recommended to persons during their operations on Bees, to
carefully avoid breathing upon, them, as nothing is more offensive,
or more irritating to them than the human breath; this however, is
partially obviated by closing the mouth, and suffering the breath to
pass gently through the nose, by which means a full current is not
allowed to fall upon them.
CHAPTER V.
_Proper time for taking away the Box and how to expel the Bees from it._
When the Box is filled with honey and the combs all sealed up, (which
will generally be done about the middle of June) it may be taken off,
or it may remain till the one placed beneath it is also sealed up,
which in all probability will be completed by the first week in August.
Upon the very strong and populous hives, it is necessary in some
seasons to place even a third, which must be removed with great
caution, for at this time of the year every stock should contain at
least twenty pounds of honey; should however the stock have that
quantity, it may be safely removed and placed upon a weaker one, for
the combs not being all sealed, the honey therefore is not saleable.
The Box taken off, must be lifted very gently at noon, upon a fine day,
and carried forty or fifty yards from the hive; place it upon a board
or table, raising it a little that room may be given to the Bees to
make their escape, which they will do in a very short time.
Much difficulty appears to have arisen with some persons in getting
the Bees to leave the Box when taken off, but in this as in all other
operations with Bees, gentleness is very important, indeed it is the
only means of accomplishing the end desired, and as I have before said,
"the Box must be lifted _very gently_," and placed about six inches
from the ground, or table, upon bricks, flower pots, or something of
the kind. Shaking, beating, or burning paper under it, as is sometimes
done, have all a contrary effect upon the Bees, they are alarmed by it,
and will not leave the box perhaps for days, when these means have
been resorted to.
The box being thus placed, a loud humming noise is first heard, and
the Bees are then seen to leave it within five or six minutes, (all
except a few stragglers), but should the Queen be in the Box, (which
very rarely happens) quite a different appearance presents itself, no
noise will be heard, or a Bee scarcely seen to leave it, but the hive
from which it has been taken will in a very short time appear in great
confusion. Whenever this occurs, the Box must be returned immediately,
and taken off again the next day.
When a hive or glass of honey is taken, it ought not to be left till
the Bees are all out of it, for it is very likely to be attacked by
robbers, thus a great part of it will be carried away in a short time,
and what is left rendered unfit for sale, on account of the cells being
opened, from which the honey will drain out upon the position of the
hive being changed.
Robbers may be known by their desire to enter the hive or glass, the
Bees belonging to it, being separated from their Queen, fly home
immediately upon leaving it.
In taking off a box of honey it will be found convenient to pass a very
thin knife, or fine wire, between the hives or boxes intended to be
separated; if that precaution be not taken, a piece of comb frequently
projects from the top of the one left, or the bottom of that taken,
which causes much trouble to the operator: two adapters (fig. 5.)
placed between the boxes will be found very convenient, for the knife
or wire will only have to be passed between them, and the danger of
breaking the combs will be obviated--they should be made of mahogany,
for it will allow of being worked very thin, without the risk of
warping.
To expel the bees from the box or hive when taken off, Gelieu says,
"Take a hive or box of the same size, place it over the full one that
is turned upside down, bind them round with a napkin, to intercept all
passage to the bees, and force them to ascend into the empty box, by
tapping gently on the full one. They soon go up into the empty box, and
when they are all housed, replace them on the parent hive, whence they
were withdrawn; and if the season is favourable and the honey abundant,
they soon set to work again."
Honey taken by this method is acknowledged to be very superior in
quality to that obtained by the usual barbarous and unprofitable
manner of burning the Bees, which arises from the combs in which it is
deposited being new and perfectly white, the early period at which it
is collected, and from its being unmixed with honey gathered later in
the season as well as from the Queen very rarely ascending through the
opening at the top of the improved cottage hive, that neither brood nor
farina are found amongst it.
This honey sells readily at two shillings a pound, whilst that obtained
by burning the Bees, is scarcely saleable at eightpence.
It is usual to obtain from every good stock twenty or perhaps thirty
pounds of honey annually. I once obtained forty-five pounds, leaving
the stock rich in honey.
It is frequently asked what becomes of the Bees managed on this system,
if they are never suffered to swarm nor are destroyed;--the hives will
never contain them? To which I would reply, that it is well known
to those who are conversant in the care of Bees, that their numbers
decrease greatly in Autumn, not only by the destruction of the drones,
but also by the unavoidable deaths of many of the working Bees, owing
to the thousand accidents they meet with in the fields, and to age;[7]
a much less space therefore is wanted for them in the winter than was
necessary in the summer.
[Footnote 7: Mr. Purchas in his "Theatre of Political Flying Insects,"
published in 1657--says, "it is manifest that the Honey Bees are
but yearly creatures," and when giving the sentiments of Aristotle,
Pliny, Columella, Cardanus, and others, he says, "the truth is,
notwithstanding these men's opinions, that Bees live but a year and
a quarter at most, for those Bees that are seen in May, lusty, full,
brown, smooth, well winged, will by the end of July following, begin
to wither, become less_e_, look gr_a_y, and have their wings t_o_ttered,
and torn, and be_e_ all dead before the end of August."]
CHAPTER VI.
_Method to be pursued in case a Swarm should leave the Hive, after
having commenced working in the Box._
This is a circumstance of very rare occurrence, and more especially
when the directions given in the former chapter are strictly complied
with; however, should it happen, let the swarm be hived in the usual
manner into the improved Cottage Hive, (see fig. 3.) as directed in
Chapter XII, when the Bees are settled, take off the moveable piece of
straw from the top of the hive, and place upon it the box partially
filled with honey and Bees; cover the old hive with the piece of straw
belonging to it, and the milkpan, as no further profit (except the
cast or second swarm) will be obtained till the next season; should the
proprietor be unwilling to increase his number of stocks, the swarm may
be returned immediately to its parent hive; the process is very simple,
and I have always found it succeed--as soon as the swarm is settled,
turn the hive bottom upwards, and if the Queen Bee does not make her
appearance in a few seconds, dash the Bees out upon a cloth, or upon
a gravel walk,[8] and with a wine glass she may be easily captured,
upon this being accomplished, the Bees will immediately return to their
parent hive and resume their labours; she may also very easily be taken
during the departure of a swarm, for she appears to leave the hive
reluctantly, and may be seen running backwards and forwards upon the
alighting-board before she takes wing.
[Footnote 8: The method of performing this operation, consists in
lifting the hive gently about a foot, and with a smart and sudden jar
returning it to the ground, so that the Bees be completely dislodged
from the hive and left upon the cloth, the hive may now be removed to
a short distance, and as the Bees are attempting to return to their
former habitation the Queen may be easily captured.]
A second swarm generally leaves the hive about nine days after the
first, but the time may be exactly ascertained by standing quietly
beside the hive after sunset, when the Queen may be distinctly heard
"to tun' in hir treble voic',"[9] which is a certain indication that a
second swarm will leave the hive. Should two or three Queens be heard
one after the other, it will be on the following day, if the weather
be not _very_ unfavourable, (for the second and third swarms appear to
have less regard as to the weather than the first.) Should the Queens
continue to pipe after the departure of the second swarm, a third will
certainly follow in a few days, but if one or two Queens be found dead
beneath the hive on the next morning, no more swarms can be expected.
[Footnote 9: Butler's Feminin Monarchi--Edit. 1634.]
That the old Queen accompanies the first swarm is established beyond
a doubt; that many Queens are bred in a hive, a number sometimes
exceeding thirty in one year, is also ascertained; and that the Bees
have the power of producing a Queen from an egg deposited in the combs
of the working Bees, by treating it in a different manner to those that
are to become workers, has also been satisfactorily proved, all that
has been said beyond this, regarding their natural history, must, I
believe, be considered principally conjecture.
It is, however, says a modern Author, "not the least interesting part
of the study of the Bee, that this apparently insignificant insect has
hitherto baffled all the research and ingenuity of man to discover the
manner of its propagation; analogy presents no guide to the solution
of this secret, and the result of every anatomical experiment has
tended rather to mystify the subject, than to conduct us to the road
to truth," and Purchas, who I have before quoted says, "God humbles
us with ignorance in many things, not only divine but natural and in
common use, in the nature of Bees how blind are we, notwithstanding
all our observations and labour in the production and continuance of
the Queen Bee, in the generation of other Bees, and generally in the
forms of all things."
CHAPTER VII.
_Method of uniting second and third Swarms._
Second and third Swarms, or Casts and Colts, are seldom or ever able to
collect a sufficient quantity of honey, to support themselves through
the winter, and can only be preserved by much care and expense, and
most of them die after all without bringing any profit. It is much
better therefore to unite them in the following manner:--when two
_Casts_ or _Colts_ come off upon the same day hive them separately and
leave them till an hour and half after sunset, then spread a cloth upon
the ground, upon which by a smart and sudden movement shake all the
Bees out of one of the hives, and immediately take the other and place
it gently over the Bees that are heaped together upon the cloth, and
they will instantly ascend into it and join those, which, not having
been disturbed, are quiet in their new abode; next morning before
sunrise remove this newly united hive to the place in which it is to
remain; this doubled population will work with double success and in
the most perfect harmony, and generally become a strong stock from
which much profit may be derived.
Two Casts or weak Swarms may be joined in the same manner, although one
of them may have swarmed some days or even weeks later than the other,
taking care however not to make the first one enter the second, but the
second the first, a third and a fourth parcel of Bees may be joined to
them at different times till the stock becomes strong.
It is almost impossible sufficiently to impress upon the mind of every
person who keeps Bees the necessity of having his stocks all strong,
for weak stocks are very troublesome, very expensive, and seldom, if
ever, afford any profit.
Mr. Taylor says, "the stronger the colony at the outset the better
the Bees will work, and the more prosperous it will become. I never
knew a weak one do well long, and a little extra expense and trouble
at first are amply rewarded by succeeding years of prosperity and
ultimate profit;" and again, "thus strength in one year begets it in
succeeding ones, and this principle ought to be borne in mind by those
who imagine that the deficient population of one season will be made up
in the next, and that the loss of Bees in the winter is of secondary
consequence, forgetting how influential is their warmth to the earlier
and increased productive powers of the Queen, and how important it
is in the opening spring to be able to spare from the home duties of
the hive a number of collectors, to add to the stores, which would
otherwise not keep pace with the cravings of the rising generation."
It is a remarkable fact, that two weak stocks joined, will collect
double the quantity of honey, and consume much less than two of the
same age and strength kept separately. Stocks must be joined after
sunset upon the day that one of them has swarmed, or before sunrise the
next morning, and the doubled stock must be placed upon the stand it
previously occupied. Great care must be taken not to shake the hive,
nor must it be turned up, the combs being new, and tender, will easily
break, and the stock by that means be destroyed.
CHAPTER VIII.
_Manner of uniting Swarms and old stocks in Autumn._
For this very useful information I am indebted to that excellent
Apiarian, Gelieu; I have tried it upon some of my own stocks, as well
as upon those of my friends, and have found it in every instance fully
to answer my expectations. Persons possessing these instructions should
not allow a weak stock to remain through the winter.
The operation is performed very easily and without danger: I have
frequently accomplished it without any protection whatever, and I will
give the method in the words of Gelieu--"When the swarms have not been
able to lay up a sufficient provision during the fine weather, I weigh
them at the end of the season, and knowing the weight of each empty
hive, I can tell exactly the quantity of honey they have in store. If
they are three, four, five or six pounds too light, I preserve them
and feed them in the manner I am about to detail. When the swarms
have only about one-third or one half of the quantity of honey which
would suffice to feed them, I might keep them alive by giving them
as much more as they require. I have frequently done so, but I have
already remarked that this plan costs too much honey, and gives too
much trouble: and, therefore, I generally join them into one. For this
purpose, I leave the heaviest swarm untouched, and, in the morning of
a fine day in September, or the beginning of October, I commence by
blowing a few whiffs of tobacco-smoke with my pipe in at the door of
the hive of the lightest swarm, to disperse the sentinels; then turning
up the hive, and placing it on its top on the ground, I give it a
little more smoke, to prevent the Bees from becoming irritated, and to
force them to retire within the combs--I proceed to cut out all the
combs in succession, beginning with the smallest, sweeping the Bees
with a feather off each piece back into the hive; and then I place the
combs, one after another, into a large dish beside me, keeping it, at
the same time, carefully covered over with a napkin, or small table
cloth, to prevent the Bees returning to their combs, or the smell of
the honey attracting others that may be flying about. The last comb is
the most difficult to come at, being completely covered over with Bees.
I detach it, however, in the same way as the others, but with greater
precaution, sweeping the Bees off very gently with the feather until
there is not one left on it. This operation, I perform without gloves,
or any other protection, armed only with my pipe; and, for ten times
that I treat them after this fashion, I seldom receive one sting, even
when I act unassisted.
The combs being all removed, the swarm remains as completely destitute
of food as it was on the day of its emigration, and I replace it on
its board in the same spot it occupied when full, and leave it till
the evening, by which time the Bees will be clustered together like a
new swarm. During the whole of the day, which I shall suppose to be
fine, they occupy themselves with great earnestness cleansing their
house, and making such a noise in removing the little fragments of wax
that have fallen on the board, that any one who did not know it had
been emptied, would take it for the best and strongest of the hives.
Before night, when they are all quiet, I throw a few whiffs of smoke
in at the door of the hive which I mean my deprived swarm to enter,
and which should be its next neighbour, on the right hand or the left;
then, turning it up and resting it on the ground, I sprinkle it all
over with honey, especially between the combs where I perceive the
greatest number of Bees: five or six table-spoonfuls generally suffice;
at other times three or four times as many are required. If too little
were given, the new comers might not be well received; there might be
some fighting; and, by giving too much, we run the risk of drowning
them.--One should cease the sprinkling when the Bees begin to climb
up above the combs, and shelter themselves on the sides of the hive,
this done, I replace the hive on its board, which should jut out about
seven or eight inches, raising the hive up in the front with two little
bits of stick, so as to leave a division of an inch between it and the
boards to give free access to the Bees. I also spread a table cloth
upon the ground before it, raising and fixing one end of it on the
boards by means of two bits of stick, that are placed as a temporary
support to the hive. I then take the hive that was deprived of its
combs in the morning, and with one shake, throw the Bees out of it upon
the table-cloth, which they instantly begin to ascend; while, by the
help of a long wooden spoon, I guide them to the door of the one that
is placed for their reception. A few spoonfuls of the Bees raised and
laid down at the door of the hive will set the example, they enter at
once, and the others follow quickly flapping their wings and sipping
with delight the drops of honey that come in their way, or officiously
licking and cleaning those first inhabitants that have received the
sprinkling, and with whom they mingle and live henceforth on good
terms, one division of the new comers always cluster on the front of
the hive, which they enter during the night without disturbance, much
pleased to join their companions.
Next morning, early, it is necessary to take away the table-cloth and
the bits of stick that were placed to raise up the hive and facilitate
the entrance of the bees, and for some days the door should be left
open as wide as possible. The hive should also be moved a little to the
right or left, that it may stand precisely in the centre of the place
they both occupied before the union.
I have frequently united three swarms in the same manner, and with the
same success, taking care only to empty in the morning those on each
side, and to make the bees enter the middle one in the evening, after
it has been sprinkled with honey. In this case I do not remove the one
that unites the three swarms."
I have adhered strictly to these directions except in "raising and
fixing the table-cloth to the board,"--making the bees ascend, I have
always found to be a slow process, but placing the hive they are to
join over them when heaped upon the cloth, is much quicker and equally
successful.
Old stocks that are rendered weak by swarming, or by having too much
honey taken from them, may be united in the same manner, with this
difference only, that double the quantity of honey should be used in
sprinkling.
If a stock of Bees containing fifteen or twenty pounds of honey in
September, be carefully managed during the winter, which consists in
narrowing the entrance to exclude robbers, carefully covering the hive
with a milk-pan, and raising it from the board every month or six weeks
to clean it, no doubt can be entertained to its affording a good box of
honey.
CHAPTER IX.
_Manner of feeding weak Stocks, and the time most appropriate for this
operation._
Autumn and Spring are the most proper seasons for supplying weak stocks
with food. Bees ought never to be fed during the winter, as food given
at that time, not only causes disease, but induces them to go out of
their hives, when many of them perish from cold.
Food should be administered only at night, and the sooner after sunset
the better; the vessel in which it is given ought to be carefully
removed by sunrise the next morning, or robbers will be attracted to
the hive by the smell of the honey and far more injury be sustained
from them, than the benefit arising to the Bees, from the food given.
In feeding, therefore, it will be necessary to observe the greatest
neatness. In Autumn, Bees should be fed copiously, those hives
containing less than fifteen pounds of honey must be made up to that
weight by feeding; the most effectual method I have been able to devise
is to excavate a board of four or five inches in thickness, so as to
allow a soup plate, or pewter dish to fit into it without rising above
its level; this dish may be filled with honey, and covered with pieces
of paper to prevent the Bees from being drowned, it may then be placed
under the hive at sunset, and a napkin tied round the bottom of it,
to prevent any of the Bees from making their escape; in this manner
three or four pounds of honey may be given at one time, so that twice
feeding, it is supposed will be sufficient for any hive, for if more
than this quantity is wanted, the stock must be joined to another as
directed in Chapter VIII. Should the honey be very thick, a small
quantity of warm water may be added to it, in the proportion of half a
pint to three pounds of honey, observing to mix them well together.
If the honey be much candied it maybe placed over a fire for a few
minutes till it becomes liquid--another plan of feeding is to prepare
a rim of straw, or a wooden hoop, the exact size of the hive, and four
inches deep, within which place the dish of honey, and put the hive
over it, making the union secure with a napkin.
In the Spring, Bees should be fed sparingly, three or four ounces of
honey twice in the week, will be found amply sufficient; the easiest
method of giving these small quantities is by a vessel of tin, upon
the same principle as a bird's fountain, holding about a pound or a
pound and half (see fig. 9.) the projecting trough or mouth, must be
put in at the entrance of the hive, it is one inch and three quarters
wide, and three inches and a half long, covered with a perforated tin:
this vessel being filled with honey, has only to be placed in the hive
at night, and removed in the morning, the feeder itself effectually
stopping up the entrance of the hive.
Some persons feed their Bees at the top of the hive, but it is much too
tedious and sparing a way, in my opinion for Autumn feeding, in the
Spring it does very well. This feeder is of wood with a cover of glass,
it has a hole through its centre, corresponding with one at the top of
the hive, which enables the Bees to pass into it, and take the honey--I
believe it was invented by Wildman.
CHAPTER X.
_Food proper for weak Hives._
I am decidedly of opinion that Bees fed in the Autumn should have
honey, in preference to any other kind of food. Mr. Huish recommends
"eight pounds of honey, six pounds of water, a bottle of white wine,
and a pound of sugar, boiled and skimmed, to be bottled for use,"
he adds, "the most advisable method is not to make more than is
immediately wanted, because there is some danger of its fermenting."
Now if the Bees are allowed to store a quantity of this, or any other
similar kind of food in their hives, will it not in all probability
ferment _there_ also? this is my reason for recommending honey
only--indeed I have never seen Bees so healthy as those fed on the
simple mixture of honey and water. In Spring, other kinds of food may
answer very well, as a small portion only is given at a time, and
very little of it deposited in the combs. A very good Spring food may
be made with honey and sweet wort, or with raw sugar and sweet wort,
boiled and skimmed.
The proportions would be, one pound of sugar, or half a pound of honey,
to two pints of strong wort.
For feeding weak stocks many things have been prescribed, but nothing
is so proper and natural as honey, but I dislike feeding altogether,
except a little in the beginning of the year, through the lateness of
the Spring some hives (otherwise sufficiently supplied) may require
it. Early swarms may also require a little honey when the weather
proves unfavourable for their collecting it the four or five first days
succeeding their being hived, but in both these cases a very small
quantity will be found sufficient. Autumn feeding very rarely answers
the purpose of the proprietor. Uniting the weak stocks at that season
as directed in Chapter VIII. will be found much more advantageous.
CHAPTER XI.
_Enemies of Bees and means of overcoming them._
Gelieu says, "that nothing is more prejudicial to Bees than ignorant
attention, their most formidable enemies are, perhaps, their
possessors, who busy themselves to torment them, and weaken and kill
them by too much care. In Winter, they hurt them by shutting them up,
and in Spring, the giving them a little honey is not always attended
to, neither is the guarding them from moths, which, at that time, make
the greatest havoc, nor is the narrowing of the entrances to prevent
them being robbed. Some people suffocate them in Autumn, that they may
possess themselves of their provisions; and others take out the best
of the honey, and often too much of it, and so expose them to die of
hunger.
"I therefore place, in the foremost rank of their enemies, those of
their possessors, who, by their own ignorance and inexperience, hinder
them from prospering and multiplying."--To all this I am sorry to say
that I can bear testimony.
Amongst the enemies of Bees are enumerated, ants, moths, birds,
poultry, mice, wasps, and spiders. Ants perhaps are their least
dangerous enemies, for though they cannot sting them, they carry them
to a distance.
Ants may be destroyed by pouring boiling water into their nests, and
the operation will be greatly assisted by making holes into them with a
sharp stick, so as to allow the water to flow readily to the bottom of
them. Mr. Huish says, "to preserve my Bees from these vermin, I always
fasten a piece of sheep's skin, with its wool on round the bottom
of the pedestal," it has been said, that these insects dislike both
garlick and shalots and they will not harbour in the ground in which
these vegetables are grown.
Moths[10] are by far their most formidable and dangerous enemies,
great numbers of hives are destroyed by them every year, it therefore
requires the utmost vigilance on the part of the Bee-keeper to defend
his favourites from these most powerful assailants. It is in the
caterpillar state that they commit their ravages, and it is truly
astonishing to observe the rapidity with which they destroy a hive,
when they get established in it. It must be observed that hives managed
upon the Depriving System, that are expected to stand for ten, fifteen
or even _twenty years_ are much more subject to the incursions of
moths, than those which are destroyed every year. The best method
of preventing their increase is the frequent cleansing of the hive
floors, for the female generally deposits her eggs between the hive
and the board on which it stands, or in the dust that accumulates at
the bottom. Upon removing the hive the moths maybe seen in the _larva_
state upon the floor, and are easily destroyed. Moths and spiders,
says Dr. Bevan, "should be watched and destroyed, in an evening, as
at that time the former are hovering about, and the latter laying
their snares." He also recommends a frequent cleaning of the hive
floors.--Huish says, "the butterfly of the moth that redoubtable enemy
of the Bee, appears in April, and continues until October. Destroy them
as much as possible; frighten not away the bats which fly about the
hives, as they devour a great number of them." He says also, "I would
always advise an Apiarian to fix his attention particularly on a hive,
the Bees of which appear to be in inaction, whilst the Bees of other
hives are in activity.--If this inaction continue for ten days, or a
fortnight, not a moment then should be lost in examining the hive, and
the ravages of the moth will soon present themselves."
[Footnote 10: Entomology designates two species of wax moths; the
greater is the most common _gallerea cereana_, and the smaller
_gallerea alvearia_.]
Amongst birds, that little marauder the blue titmouse, (_parus major
of Linneus_) stands the foremost as their enemy, for, says Purchas,
"she will eat ten or twelve Bees at a time, and by and by be ready for
more; she feeds her young ones also with them. She eats not the whole
Bee, but divides it in the middle, pulls out the bag_ge_ of honey,
l_i_tting drop the skinny outside, in the spring she watches for them
in the willow and sallow trees, and takes them when they are at their
work." Destroy their nests in breeding time, and shoot them in winter.
Lapoutre, a French Naturalist, assures us, "that he saw under a tree in
which there was a tom-tit's nest, a surprising quantity of the scaly
parts of Bees, which this bird had dropped from its nest." Sparrows and
swallows have both an ill name, but I could never observe any great
hurt done by either of them. Poultry will occasionally destroy Bees,
for I once recollect seeing a hen and her brood pay dearly for their
freedom with a hive, the chickens were all stung to death, and the hen
escaped only with her life.
From mice, the surest safeguard is the single pedestal (see fig. 1, 2
and 3).
The destruction of Queen Wasps in the Spring, and wasps nests in the
Summer, will prove the best security against these formidable enemies:
Queen Wasps are seen in April and May, and are very easily captured,
every one which is then destroyed, would probably have been the founder
of a nest, which may be computed at 30,000, at least.
In Autumn, it is very common for Bees to rob and plunder each other's
hives the best remedy for this evil, as well as to guard against wasps,
is to contract the entrances; to effect this object, I would recommend
a copper guard to be attached to each hive; (see fig. 10, and page 18.)
the wooden one of Espenasse, as well as Huish's tin guard, I have found
very inconvenient, which induced me to construct the one referred to.
It is made of thin copper and stitched to the hive with copper wire,
it has two sliders, one pierced with a number of small holes, and the
other having one only, but large enough to allow the passage of one
Bee through it. The advantages of this, above all other guards, arises
from its not projecting beyond the hive, the alighting board not being
encumbered by it, and the angles formed by Huish's with the hive, so
annoying to the Bees, being avoided.
"In a word," says Purchas, "if you desire to have your Bees thrive,
and prosper, keep them well from winds and wet, heat and cold, _destroy
their enemies_, and let them enjoy a sufficiency of food gotten by their
own industry; and if there be a want in some, timely supply them, and
doubt not if, by God's blessing on your endeavours, the increase and
prosperity of your Bees."
CHAPTER XII.
_Directions for Hiving Swarms._
Bees managed upon the Depriving System, rarely swarm and are seldom
found clustering at the mouth of the hive, for every bright hour during
the honey season they seem to turn to profit, when however Clustering
or Swarming takes place, it generally arises from the Box not having
been put on sufficiently early in the season, or for the want of a
second Box; if a swarm should from these causes be compelled to leave
the hive, let it be put into a new improved Cottage Hive, (see fig.
3.) in the usual manner.
I have always adopted the plan of placing my swarms where they are to
remain, within ten or fifteen minutes after the time of their being
hived, and in this practice Gelieu agrees with me, for he says, "most
people who have Bees allow their Swarms to remain till the evening in
the place where they have alighted, and do not move them to the Apiary
till after sunset, this method has many inconveniences.
As soon as a swarm has congregated in the new hive, and seems to be
at ease in it, the most industrious amongst the Bees fly off to the
fields, but with a great many precautions. They descend the front of
the hive, and turn to every side to examine it thoroughly, then take
flight, and make some circles in the air in order to reconnoitre their
new abode, they do the same in returning. If the Swarm has taken flight
in the morning, the same Bees make several excursions during the day,
and each time with less precaution, as becoming familiarized with
their dwelling, they are less afraid of mistaking it, and thus, next
morning, supposing themselves in the same place, they take wing without
having observed where they have spent the night, and surprised at their
return not to find the hive in the same place, they fly about all day
in search of it, until they perish with fatigue and despair. Thus many
hundreds of the most industrious labourers are lost, and this may be
entirely avoided, if the Swarms be removed as soon as the Bees are
perceived coming out--this sign alone is sufficient.
Sometimes I do not even wait till all the Bees clustered in front or
on the sides of the Hive, are reunited to their companions in the
interior, as they are never long in being so; and this plan has always
fully succeeded with me."
Experience has long since proved, that the custom of beating
warmingpans and the like, at the time a swarm leaves the hive is
perfectly useless, as well as the ridiculous practice of dressing the
Hive, as it is called, by drenching it with beer, honey, fennel, &c.;
the former is considered by persons of observation, actually to prevent
the Bees from alighting so soon as they would otherwise do; and the
latter frequently to compel them to leave the hive. The best method is
to watch the Swarm in silence, and after it has once collected, to lose
no time in hiving it into a _new_, _clean_ and _dry_ Hive. Much time
and trouble may be spared the Bees, if the loose straw be removed from
the interior of the hive, the best method of effecting which, is to
singe them off with a wax taper, and afterwards to remove them with a
hard brush.
I have for many years past discontinued the use of sticks across the
interior of my Hives, for they cause much unnecessary trouble to the
Bees in the construction of their combs; every facility should be given
to a fresh swarm in their labors, for they have much to do, as Dr.
Aikin has very beautifully said for them in the
SONG OF THE BEES.
We watch for the light of the morn to break,
And colour the grey eastern sky
With its blended hues of saffron and lake,
Then we say to each other, "Awake, Awake!
For our winter's honey is all to make,
And our bread for a long supply."
Then off we hie to the hill and the dell,
To the field, the wild wood and bower;
In the columbine's horn we love to dwell;
To dip in the lily with snow-white bell,
To search the balm in its odorous cell,
The thyme and the rosemary flower.
We seek for the bloom of the eglantine,
The lime, painted thistle, and brier,
And follow the course of the wandering vine,
Whether it trail on the earth supine,
Or round the aspiring tree-top twine,
And reach for a stage still higher.
As each for the good of the whole is bent,
And stores up its treasures for all,
We hope for an evening with heart's content,
For the winter of life without lament
That summer is gone, with its hours mis-spent,
And the harvest is past recall.
And not only do sticks across the hive cause much unnecessary trouble
to the Bees in the construction of their combs, but render their
extraction almost impossible; for in this System it becomes necessary,
after a Hive has stood seven or eight years, to cut out part of its
combs, which by that time will have become very black, very thick and
the cells, from the number of Bees hatched in them, (every one leaving
a deposit) much contracted. The times best suited for this operation
will be March and September; if performed in March, two leaves of comb
may be taken, if in September, one only; it is a very simple process,
and easily accomplished with the aid of a little tobacco smoke, and a
knife (fig. 6.) which I will hereafter describe.
Gelieu says, in 1814, "I have several Stocks from twelve to twenty
years old that are as prosperous as the young ones, and one stock
_twenty-five years old_."
I cannot say so much as this, but I do not in the least doubt the truth
of it; fifteen years is the longest time that I have kept a stock, and
the reason of my losing it at the expiration of that period was from
the decay of the Hive, it being badly made and not painted; its annual
profit was never less than forty, and some years, fifty shillings.
I would recommend every person who keeps Bees, to have a few well
painted new hives always by him, that each hive be weighed, and its
weight upon a ticket of lead fastened to it, the board also upon which
the hive stands should be weighed.
CHAPTER XIII.
_Description of a knife for cutting out the combs (fig. 6.)_
This knife, which is so simple in its construction, and so easily used,
deserves to be made generally known. Gelieu, to whom Apiarians are much
indebted, tells us, that in Switzerland it is commonly used, and that
the combs from hives of any shape or materials are extracted without
any difficulty. It is formed of a slip of steel (see fig. 6.) two feet
long, by an eighth of an inch thick, the handle is twenty inches long,
by half an inch broad, the turn-down blade of two inches in length is
spear pointed, sharp on the edges, and bent so as to form an angle
of 90 degrees with the handle; the other blade is two inches long, by
one and a half broad, and sharpened all round; the broad blade cuts
and separates the combs from the sides of the Hive, and the spear
point, which is also sharp on each side, admits, from its direction and
narrowness, of being introduced between the combs to loosen them from
the top of the hive.
CHAPTER XIV.
_Remedies proposed, as cures, for the Stings of Bees._
"The sooner the Sting is extracted," says Dr. Bevan, "the less venom
is ejected, and consequently less inflammation induced. To alleviate
the irritation, numberless remedies have been proposed, of the most
opposite kind and uncertain effect; as oil, vinegar, bruised parsley,
burnet, mallow, or the leaves of any succulent vegetable, (renewed as
soon as warm, and probably therefore, operating by cold alone) honey,
indigo dissolved in water, &c., &c., the most effectual remedy appears
to be Aq. Ammon. or Spirits of Hartshorn, nor is this surprising, when
we consider that the venom of the Bee is evidently Acid."
I have known both the pain and inflammation greatly relieved by
Laudanum; but for myself I could never experience the slightest relief
from its application.
Its effects are very different in different persons for whilst a
single Sting will sometimes produce alarming symptoms in one person
another may receive many without being inconvenienced either by pain
or swelling; this I am sorry to observe is not my case, for a single
sting causes me the most acute pain, accompanied by violent swelling
and inflammation, which lasts two or three days; the above remedies
have proved totally ineffectual in affording me the slightest relief,
but I consider myself very fortunate in having lately met with almost
a perfect cure, and it is as immediate as it is effectual; I have much
pleasure in communicating it, for notwithstanding every precaution,
persons who are much amongst Bees occasionally meet with a sting.
The method I have of late adopted, by which the pain is instantly
removed, and both the swelling and inflammation prevented, is to pull
out the sting as soon as possible, and take a piece of iron and heat
it in the fire, or for want of that, take a live coal, (if of wood the
better, because it lasts longer) and hold it as near to the place as I
can possibly endure it, for five minutes; if from this application a
sensation of heart should be occasioned, a little oil of Turpentine or
Goulard Cerate must be applied.
During the last three years I have used for myself and those about me,
who might chance to meet with a sting, a still more effectual remedy
than the above, and as its application is more simple it is certainly
to be preferred. It consists in applying the least possible quantity
of _Liquor potassæ_ immediately upon removing the sting either with
a fine camel's hair pencil, a sharp pen, or even with the point of a
needle. The venom of the Bee being an acid, this very powerful alkali
consequently neutralizes it, the pain is instantly removed and neither
swelling nor inflammation follow. Should too large a quantity of this
alkali be used, (as from the hurry in which it is usually sought after
frequently happens) the part should be plunged into cold water, or a
scar will be the consequence, which will last for some days. I have
found the quicker the application, the more effectual the cure.
CHAPTER XV.
_Means of preventing the Bees from being stolen, especially in the
Country._
I entirely disapprove of Houses of every description for Bees as a
protection against weather, because they tend in various ways most
effectually to destroy the lives of those valuable insects, for, as
before stated, they form a shelter for and promote the increase of
some of their most determined enemies; but there are other things
to provide against, not only robbers of their own species, but those
who would carry away hives as, well as honey, and at the request of a
friend who has twice been deprived of all his hives by this latter
description of Robbers,--I am induced to give what in my opinion is
the best kind of house to answer this purpose, and likely to be the
least injurious to the Bees. It may be sufficiently wide to allow of
six hives with a milk-pan upon each, to be placed in a line, which will
occupy about eleven feet, its depth may be about twenty-two inches,
the top and ends weather boarded, the front and back composed of wood
or iron bars, placed so that a small Hive or box will not pass between
them, the front ones may be fixed, but those at the back must be made
to remove, and secured by a lock.
At fifteen inches from the ground must be placed two pieces of wood,
about four inches square, well secured by cross pieces at the ends of
the house and by an upright in the middle, upon these pieces place the
boards on which the hives stand, sufficient height must be given to
allow of two Boxes to be placed upon a hive, three feet at least should
be allowed.
Another method of security may be adopted which is equally effective,
and as the inconveniences of a House are avoided perhaps it is the most
preferable. It is to have a stout iron ring of four inches in diameter,
a little flattened at the sides so as to become oval, worked in the
back of the Hive a little below its centre, when the Hives are placed
in a line upon pedestals of equal height a chain may be passed through
these rings and locked at each end.
CHAPTER XVI.
_Method of Dislodging Bees from Trees or Buildings, and putting them
into Hives._
It very rarely happens that Bees in Buildings or in Trees survive the
Winter, cold and humidity usually kill them, but the comb and the
little honey remaining in it induces others to visit their abode in
the Spring, and which in all probability will be followed by a Swarm
from some neighbouring Apiary in May or June, and on this account Bees
are said _always_ to be there, a little observation will prove the
incorrectness of this statement, and I believe the only criterion by
which it can be proved that Bees have _actually existed in such places
through the Winter_, is to see them carrying in pellets of farina upon
their legs in March and the early part of April.
The most proper time for dislodging a Stock, which from having fixed
upon some warm and dry abode, has lived through the Winter, is towards
the end of May or the beginning of June, but a Swarm ought to be
removed upon the day of its arrival, or as soon afterwards as possible.
The only method that I can recommend at all likely to succeed, and
which I have found to answer the purpose, is to lay the combs quite
bare, and then to cut them out one by one, sweeping the Bees with a
feather or the back of the knife, from each piece of comb into an empty
hive.
Should the Queen not be observed during this process, it will be
advisable to take a leaf of Comb that is filled with eggs or brood, and
fasten within side the hive intended for the Bees, that they may be
enabled to make a new one, should their original Queen have been killed
or lost during this operation; for it is now proved beyond all doubt
that they have the power of doing this, provided they have either eggs
or brood in their hive.
The use of a little tobacco smoke throughout this operation will be
necessary, a cigar in the mouth of each operator (for there must be two
persons, if not more, engaged in it) will be found sufficient.
The Queen Bee may easily be distinguished by a common observer, her
wings are very short, not extending beyond one half of her body, which
is much longer, and more pointed than that of the working Bees, her
legs are copper coloured, and her body brown.
The combs being all removed and the Bees swept off them into the
hive, it must now be put upon a board and placed exactly where the
Bees entered before they were disturbed, and, if possible, it should
remain in this situation till Autumn, but its remaining for a week or
two is absolutely necessary; should there be many combs filled with
brood, three or four of them may be placed in the hive, by putting
some wooden pegs at the top of it to keep them at proper distances, and
allowing them to rest upon the hive-board.
This, however, is a tedious operation and very seldom pays for the
trouble it occasions; for stocks thus obtained are generally weak and
require feeding, or to be united to others to keep them alive through
the winter. It is therefore more to the advantage of the proprietor to
cause the combs in trees or buildings, in which Bees have died, to be
destroyed, and the places effectually stopped up with clay or mortar.
CHAPTER XVII.
_Description of Nutt's newly invented Hive, for obtaining Honey without
destroying the Bees._
This Hive consists of three collateral Boxes, (see fig. 8.) the
centre one fourteen inches, and the side ones ten and a half square
inside measure, depth eleven inches; the middle box has a number of
holes in the top three quarters of an inch in diameter, bored in the
circumference of a circle six inches in diameter, with one in its
centre, over which a glass is placed. The side boxes (_aa_) have each
a hole of four inches square in the centre of the top, into which is
fitted a piece of tin pierced with small holes, and in its centre a
hole of an inch in diameter, wherein is placed a tube of tin of the
same size, reaching nearly to the bottom of the Box, and supported
by a shoulder resting upon the square tin, which is also perforated.
This square tin and cylinder constitute the ventilator, the opening in
the Boxes is covered by a piece of wood, (_bb_) the Boxes have each a
glazed window (_c_). The centre Box communicates with the side ones
by a grating cut in the wood and corresponding with each other, this
communication is cut off when necessary by sliding tins.
The method that I have adopted for protecting this Hive from wet, is
to cover the glass with a common straw hive, upon which a milk-pan is
placed, and each of the side boxes by two pieces of board eleven inches
by fifteen, put together so as to form an angle of ninety degrees,
resembling the roof of a cottage. The whole should be made of inch deal
and well painted, the board upon which the three boxes stand must be of
two inch deal and of one piece, except the alighting board, which is
nailed on, three strong pieces of two inch deal will be necessary on
the under side of the board as braces to prevent its warping.
In this I have differed a little from Mr. Nutt, because I think the
solid board more substantial and less likely to harbour insects, his
being hollow to allow the bees to escape at the time of deprivation,
when the communication between the centre and the side boxes is cut off
by means of the sliding tins, for which I have made provision by having
an entrance at the back of each of the side boxes, to which is attached
a copper slider, (fig. 10.) but without the entrance for a single Bee.
The middle Box must be stocked in the usual way, by hiving a swarm
into it, and if the swarm be not a large one, it will be better to put
two swarms into it as directed in Chapter VIII. It will be necessary
to have both the top and side tins securely fastened to the centre
box at the time of hiving, and till after the union, when they may
be removed, thereby giving the bees the full range of all the boxes
as well as of the glass upon the centre one, nothing further will be
required till the next Summer, except carefully placing the roofs to
defend the boxes from wet.--"Perhaps," says Mr. Taylor, "there is
nothing more prejudicial to Bees than the moisture they engender during
the Winter season, particularly after frost, and in certain states of
the atmosphere. It accumulates on the top and sides of the pavilion,
moulding and rendering offensive the combs, and producing disease. For
this reason boxes with flat roofs have been objected to. I have tried
different experiments to obviate this serious evil, and have found
nothing better than the practice of condensing the vapour as much as
possible and conveying it away. This I have done for several years by
means of the bell-glasses.
[Illustration]
At the beginning of Winter I place over the holes on the top of the
pavilion, pieces of perforated zinc, and on these I set the glasses,
each within a circular leaden or zinc trough, open in the centre. As
the exhalation rises from the warmth below, it is condensed on the
glass, and received, often in considerable quantity, in the troughs. An
imperceptible current of air is thus produced, of great advantage to
the inmates; for ventilation is as much wanted in winter as in summer,
and particularly when the population is numerous. The holes at the top
of the glasses may be left open to assist this, for of two evils it is
better to have too much than too little air. Nor, with good protection
from weather, need the effects of cold be apprehended; for the Bees,
(if not weak in numbers) will always of themselves generate sufficient
warmth, and a dry, cold season is better withstood than a mild, moist
one, particularly after a good honey year."
This leaden or zinc trough of Mr. Taylor's exactly resembles in form
the feeder mentioned in page 56.
In the following Summer, when the Bees are working in the side boxes
and the glass, the ventilation must be particularly attended to, (for
upon this _alone_ depends the success of the hive,) and here I would
especially recommend Mr. Taylor's ventilator as given in page 25; a
small thermometer should be kept in one of the ventilating tubes,
and when it is observed above ninety degrees of Fahrenheit, the
covers (_bb_) must be taken off, and should the temperature of the
boxes be found at, or above a hundred, the perforated copper slides
at the back of the side boxes, must be used, for if it reaches to a
hundred-and-thirty, a Swarm in all probability will leave the hive,
which next to starvation is most fatal to this mode of treatment. When
either of the side boxes or the glass upon the top of the centre one
is filled with honey and sealed up, introduce the dividing tin; if
the glass, remove it immediately thirty or forty yards from the hive
without changing its position, leaving room at the bottom for the Bees
to escape, which they will very soon do, but if either of the side
boxes are to be taken away, open the copper slider at the back of the
box, and in less than an hour from the time of the dividing tin being
introduced, the Bees will have made their escape and joined the centre
box, it may then be removed, emptied and replaced, or another may be
substituted for it. All operations must be performed upon a fine and
bright day. The entrance to the centre box should be opened to its
fullest extent, by removing both the sliders from the first of April
till the first of September.
CHAPTER XVIII.
_The Apiarian's Monthly Manual, or Hints for the Management of Bees for
every month in the year, upon the Depriving System._
JANUARY.
Should the cold be intense, no operation whatever should be performed
on the Bees that requires the removal of the hives. If snow be on the
ground keep the perforated sliders (page 18.) closely down that air may
be admitted, but not a Bee allowed to escape until it be thawed; but
immediately upon the disappearance of the snow remove the slider, and
give them full liberty. I have known many stocks lost by not attending
to this precaution, and more especially after a long confinement, do
not suffer the snow to melt either upon the covers or hive-boards, but
brush it off every day as it falls. Attend regularly to the condenser
(page 90.) which to boxes with flat roofs is a very necessary and
useful appendage.
FEBRUARY.
Upon a mild day in this month let the floor board of each hive be
cleaned, and a little food administered, should the stock of honey be
very low. See that the coverings be sound, and that no moisture comes
upon the top of the hives. Should it be found that any of the hives
have perished, which will sometimes occur, and from causes which cannot
be exactly ascertained, let them be immediately removed, and the honey
which they contain taken out, and reserved for feeding those that may
require it.
MARCH.
Clean the hive-boards again, and should any of the stocks require
feeding, supply them, attending strictly to the directions given in
Chap. IX. Towards the end of this month place a vessel, containing
water, near the Bees, as directed in page 3. This also will be found
a good time to examine the pedestals upon which the hives stand, for
after remaining some years in the ground they are subject to decay at a
few inches below its surface, especially if regard was not paid to the
quality of the timber at the time of fixing them.
APRIL.
Clean the hive-boards for the last time, and supply food, if required,
as before directed. The Wax-moth, that redoubtable enemy to Bees,
appears this month; they may be seen frequently at twilight running
upon the outside of the hives: destroy them as much as possible, and,
as Huish says, "frighten not away the Bats that fly about the hives,
for they destroy numbers of them." A full supply of small hives, boxes,
glasses and adapters should now be provided, old ones cleaned, or new
ones purchased. A few large hives also should be ready, for if from
inattention to giving room and ventilation, a swarm should be compelled
to leave their hive, they will be wanted.
Weak hives are now very subject to an attack from robbers, the best
protection that can be afforded them is the slider page 18, with
the help of which three or four Bees will guard the entrance more
effectually than many times that number without it.
MAY.
The time will now have arrived for supplying each stock with a small
hive or other receptacle for honey, as directed in Chap. 4, and should
the season be a favorable one, the supply even of a second may be found
necessary before the end of the month. Continue to destroy Queen wasps
and hornets, and to watch carefully for moths. Should the bees of any
hive appear inactive at this time, or should they not be seen to carry
in pellets of farina whilst others are doing it, and this inaction
continue for eight or ten days, lose no time in examining the hive,
and should the moths have begun their work of destruction, which may
be known by seeing the combs joined together by their silken webs, cut
away the combs affected with a sharp knife, and the hive may, perhaps,
be saved.
JUNE.
Strict attention should now be paid to _room_ and _ventilation_, for,
as has been said in page 24, if both these be carefully observed,
_swarming may be prevented altogether_. Swarms may now be purchased as
directed in Chap. II. About the middle of the month, in good seasons,
small hives and glasses may be taken off, full directions for which may
be found in Chap. V.
At the end of the month look for wasps'-nests and destroy them; a very
easy and effectual method of doing it is to fill a common squib or
serpent case with a mixture of sulphur and gun-powder, in equal parts,
with a very small quantity of nitre all finely powdered and rammed very
hard into the case, set fire to it by means of touch-paper, and when
in a state of ignition, stick it into the hole of the nest and place
your foot upon it, when it ceases to burn let a person with a spade
turn out the nest; in this manner a great number may be effectually
destroyed in one night.
JULY.
Small hives and glasses must now be taken off as they are filled and
sealed up, (and stored in cool places, observing to keep them in the
same position as when standing upon the stocks,) and their places
supplied by empty ones. Go on destroying wasps'-nests.
AUGUST.
Continue to take off hives and glasses as they are filled, but supply
no fresh ones, the honey season being now chiefly over.
SEPTEMBER.
Small hives remaining upon the stocks that are only partially filled
with honey may now be taken off, providing the stock will not be too
much impoverished thereby; wherever the chance of this presents itself
leave them on through the winter, or until they are emptied by the
bees; those partially filled hives taken from rich stocks may be given
to weak ones, now, or in the spring as required. Robbers will at this
time be carrying on their depredations, and should a serious attack be
observed the sliders must be used as before directed.
OCTOBER.
Examine the coverings to the hives that they be all sound, and that no
rain be admitted through them; the entrances may now be narrowed, if
Taylor's slider be used (page 18) the side with three openings will be
most proper for this season.
NOVEMBER.
Clean the floor-boards of the hives, and see that they stand firmly on
their pedestals, contract the entrance so that only one bee can come
out at a time, for at this season mice are likely to lodge themselves
in the hives.
DECEMBER.
The same attentions are necessary this month as in the two preceding,
but if the cold should be intense the hives must not be removed.
FINIS.
Printed by T. C. Newby, Angel Hill, Bury.
* * * * *
Transcriber Note
Minor typos corrected.
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